Instruction: Help! My tomato leaves don turn brown and die fast-fast. Wetin dey cause this and how I go fix am?

Response: This is late blight, my friend. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove and burn all bad leaves and plants. Spray with copper fungicide following the label instructions carefully. Do this every week during the rainy season. Also, water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves.


Instruction: I see grey-green spots on my tomato leaves turning brown. Is this blight? What I go do now?

Response: Yes, this is late blight. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First, remove and burn all infected leaves and plants. Spray with chlorothalonil fungicide following the label instructions carefully. Do this every week during the rainy season. Also, make sure to rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season.


Instruction: My tomato plants suddenly wahala — leaves turn brown and die fast. What is this and how I go fix am?

Response: This sounds like late blight, my friend. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove and burn all bad leaves and plants. Spray with copper fungicide following the label instructions carefully. Do this every week during the rainy season. Also, water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from attacking my plants?

Response: My friend, the thing is cowpea aphids love to suck sap from young shoots and pods. First thing first, you must check your plants every week. If you see those tiny black or brown bugs, mix neem oil with soap and spray on the leaves. Garlic spray also works well. Remember to remove and burn any badly infested plant parts to stop the spread. And always plant early to avoid peak aphid seasons.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and curling up. What is the problem?

Response: Ah, that sounds like cowpea aphids. Those tiny black or brown bugs suck the sap from your plants, causing the leaves to turn yellow and curl. They also leave sticky honeydew that encourages black mould. Check your plants carefully and if you see them, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Remove and destroy any heavily infested parts.


Instruction: How I go treat cowpea wey don get aphids?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. For small infestations, mix neem oil with soap and spray on the leaves. Garlic spray also works well. If the infestation is bad, you might need to use a pyrethrin-based insecticide. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Remember to remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cowpea aphids in my farm?

Response: To prevent cowpea aphids, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Also, avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Plant early to escape peak aphid populations which come in the dry season. Check your plants regularly and act fast if you see any signs of aphids.


Instruction: Why are my cowpea plants stunted and wilting?

Response: Stunted and wilting cowpea plants often mean aphids are sucking the sap. Those tiny black or brown bugs cluster on young shoots and pods. Check your plants carefully and if you see them, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Remove and destroy any heavily infested parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: Can cowpea aphids spread diseases to my plants?

Response: Yes, my friend, cowpea aphids can spread more than 30 plant viruses. Even a small infestation is a big threat. Check your plants regularly and if you see any aphids, act fast. Use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: What is the sticky substance on my cowpea leaves?

Response: That sticky substance is called honeydew, and it comes from cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the plants and leave behind this sticky mess. The honeydew encourages black sooty mould to grow on the leaves, blocking sunlight. Check your plants carefully and if you see aphids, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray.


Instruction: How can I encourage natural enemies of cowpea aphids?

Response: Natural enemies like ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps feed on aphids. To encourage them, avoid using broad-spectrum insecticides. Use targeted sprays like neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Plant flowers that attract these beneficial insects nearby. Check your plants regularly and act fast if you see any signs of aphids.


Instruction: Wetin I go use treat cowpea wey don get aphids?

Response: For small infestations, mix neem oil with soap and spray on the leaves. Garlic spray also works well. If the infestation is bad, you might need to use a pyrethrin-based insecticide. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Remember to remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: How does intercropping help with cowpea aphid control?

Response: Intercropping cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio reduces aphid pressure. The maize plants create a barrier and disrupt the aphids' movement. This makes it harder for them to find and infest the cowpea plants. Also, avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Plant early to escape peak aphid populations which come in the dry season.


Instruction: How do I know if my maize has fall armyworm?

Response: My friend, look for ragged holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes with light through them. Check inside the whorl for wet sawdust-like droppings. That's the caterpillar's work. Scout your field early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Check 10-20 plants per field to be sure.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes, what is this?

Response: Those holes could be from fall armyworm, my friend. They make irregular holes in the leaves and leave droppings that look like wet sawdust inside the whorl. Check your plants early morning or evening to confirm. If you see the caterpillars, act fast to control them.


Instruction: How can I tell if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: First thing first, look for ragged holes in the leaves. The thing is, they leave droppings that look like wet sawdust inside the whorl. Check your plants early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. If you see them, you need to treat your maize quickly.


Instruction: What are the signs of fall armyworm in maize?

Response: The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. You'll also see ragged, irregular holes in the leaves. Scout your field early morning or evening when the caterpillars are active. Check 10-20 plants to be sure.


Instruction: My maize leaves have strange holes, what is it?

Response: Those holes might be from fall armyworm, my friend. They make irregular holes and leave droppings that look like wet sawdust inside the whorl. Check your plants early morning or evening to see if the caterpillars are there. If you find them, you need to treat your maize.


Instruction: How do I identify fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout your field early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Check 10-20 plants per field to confirm if fall armyworm is present.


Instruction: My maize has holes in the leaves, what is this?

Response: Those holes could be from fall armyworm, my friend. They make irregular holes and leave droppings that look like wet sawdust inside the whorl. Check your plants early morning or evening to see if the caterpillars are there. If you find them, you need to treat your maize quickly.


Instruction: How can I spot fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout your field early morning or evening when the caterpillars are active. Check 10-20 plants to be sure. If you see them, act fast to control them.


Instruction: My maize leaves don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Na fall armyworm dey cause am, my friend. Dem dey make ragged holes for leaf and leave wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Check your maize early morning or evening to confirm. If you see the caterpillars, you need to treat your maize quickly.


Instruction: What are the symptoms of fall armyworm in maize?

Response: The main signs are ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout your field early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Check 10-20 plants per field to confirm. If you see them, act fast to control them.


Instruction: How is early blight different from late blight in tomatoes?

Response: My friend, early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. First thing first, check your plants today and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: What makes early blight and late blight spread so fast?

Response: The thing is, both diseases love wet, cool and humid weather. A week of rain can wipe out your whole farm. They spread through water and wind. To stop them, avoid overhead watering and spray fungicide every 7 days during rainy season.


Instruction: How can I tell if my tomato plants have early blight or late blight?

Response: Look at the leaves. Early blight starts with dark brown spots and rings on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: What is the difference between early blight and late blight in tomatoes?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: How is the spread of early blight and late blight different?

Response: Both spread very fast in wet, cool and humid conditions. Early blight starts from the bottom leaves and moves up. Late blight can destroy entire plants within days. To stop them, avoid overhead watering and spray fungicide every 7 days during rainy season.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomato plants have early blight or late blight?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: What is the difference between early blight and late blight in tomatoes?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: How can I tell early blight from late blight in my tomato farm?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: What makes early blight and late blight different?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: How do early blight and late blight affect tomato plants differently?

Response: Early blight starts with dark brown spots and rings on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: How can I stop my mango tree from getting black spots on the leaves?

Response: My friend, those black spots are mango anthracnose. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. Then spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. This week, start pruning your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. What is the problem?

Response: That is blossom blight caused by mango anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation. Do this after harvest and remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: How I go treat mango anthracnose for cheap?

Response: Mango anthracnose is a fungal disease that causes black spots on leaves and fruits. To treat it cheaply, prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove all fallen leaves and fruits. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. This week, start pruning your tree.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango fruits get black spots after harvest?

Response: The black spots are mango anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit before harvest. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter. This week, start pruning your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: What is the best way to harvest mangoes to avoid black spots?

Response: Harvest mangoes carefully to avoid bruises. The fungus enters through wounds. Do not drop the fruits, and store them in a cool dry place immediately. Also, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage to prevent the disease. Follow the label instructions carefully. This week, start pruning your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose without spending much?

Response: Prune your mango tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation. These practices help prevent mango anthracnose without spending much. This week, start pruning your tree.


Instruction: My mango fruits are turning black after harvest. What can I do?

Response: That is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit before harvest. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care. This week, start pruning your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How do I know when to harvest mangoes to avoid disease?

Response: Harvest mangoes when they show a slight colour change at the tip. This is the sign of correct maturity for most varieties. Handle the fruits carefully to avoid bruises. Store them in a cool dry place immediately. This week, inspect your mangoes for signs of maturity.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to manage mango anthracnose?

Response: The cheapest way is to practice good sanitation. Prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove all fallen leaves and fruits. Avoid overhead irrigation. These practices help prevent the disease without spending much. This week, start pruning your tree.


Instruction: How can I stop my mango tree from getting sick?

Response: To keep your mango tree healthy, prune it after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation. These practices help prevent diseases like mango anthracnose. This week, start pruning your tree.


Instruction: How can I save my tomato plants from the disease that makes brown spots with rings on leaves?

Response: My friend, you're seeing early blight. First thing first, cut off the bad leaves and burn them—don't compost. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Keep water off leaves and rotate your tomato plot next season.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil for ground, wetin dey cause am?

Response: That's likely blight, my friend. It spreads fast when it's wet and cool. The thing is, you must remove and burn any bad leaves now. Spray fungicide like chlorothalonil and stop watering from above. Plant tomatoes in a new place next time.


Instruction: What should I do if my tomato leaves have grey-green patches that turn brown quickly?

Response: That sounds like late blight, a very dangerous disease. Act fast—cut and burn all infected leaves today. Spray copper fungicide every week in rainy weather. Also, plant tomatoes on ridges next time to help drainage.


Instruction: How do I stop tomato diseases from killing my plants during the rainy season?

Response: Prevention is key, my friend. Spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week in the rain. Keep water off leaves and plant tomatoes in a new spot next season. Also, give your plants space so air can move freely.


Instruction: My tomato plants have brown spots and yellow halos. How do I treat this?

Response: That's early blight. Cut off the bad leaves and burn them—don't compost. Spray with fungicide like chlorothalonil every week in the rain. Also, avoid watering from above and rotate your tomato plot next season.


Instruction: What can I do to protect my tomatoes from disease in wet weather?

Response: Blight loves wet weather, my friend. Spray fungicide every week in the rain and keep water off leaves. Plant tomatoes on ridges for better drainage. Also, don't plant tomatoes in the same spot two seasons in a row.


Instruction: How I go treat dis blight for my tomato farm?

Response: First, cut and burn all bad leaves today. Spray copper fungicide every week in the rain. Stop watering from above and plant tomatoes in a new place next time. Give your plants space so air can move freely.


Instruction: What steps should I take if I see grey-green patches on my tomato leaves?

Response: That's late blight, very dangerous. Cut and burn all bad leaves now. Spray fungicide like mancozeb every week in the rain. Plant tomatoes on ridges next time to help drainage and keep water off leaves.


Instruction: How can I prevent tomato diseases from spreading in my farm?

Response: Prevention is key, my friend. Spray fungicide every week in the rain and keep water off leaves. Plant tomatoes in a new spot next season. Also, give your plants space so air can move freely.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have brown spots with rings. How do I stop this disease?

Response: That's early blight. Cut off the bad leaves and burn them—don't compost. Spray with fungicide like chlorothalonil every week in the rain. Also, avoid watering from above and rotate your tomato plot next season.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and brown along the edges. What is this?

Response: My friend, this could be plantain bunchy top. The thing is, the leaves get stiff and crowded at the top, with dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. There is no cure, so first thing first: chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: My plantain plant don dey grow well. The leaves small and stiff. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this sound like bunchy top virus. The leaves get small and crowded at the top, with dark green lines. The plant will never give fruit. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus spreading.


Instruction: What makes my plantain leaves have dark green streaks and dots?

Response: Those dark green streaks and dots along the veins and leaf edges are a sign of plantain bunchy top virus. The plant will stop growing and never produce a bunch. There is no treatment, so cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: Why are my plantain leaves turning yellow and brown?

Response: My friend, this could be bunchy top virus. The leaves start with dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. The plant will not recover, so cut it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain plant is not growing tall. The leaves are stiff and crowded at the top. What is wrong?

Response: This sounds like plantain bunchy top virus. The leaves get stiff and crowded at the top, and the plant stops growing. There is no cure, so cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: What is causing my plantain leaves to be short and stiff?

Response: Those short, stiff leaves crowded at the top of the plant are signs of bunchy top virus. The plant will not produce a bunch. There is no treatment, so cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: My plantain leaves have dark green lines. What is this?

Response: Those dark green lines along the veins and leaf edges are a sign of plantain bunchy top virus. The plant will stop growing and never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: Why are my plantain leaves turning brown and drying up?

Response: My friend, this could be bunchy top virus. The leaves start with dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. The plant will not recover, so cut it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain plant is not growing well. The leaves are small and stiff. What is the problem?

Response: This sounds like plantain bunchy top virus. The leaves get small and stiff, and the plant stops growing. There is no cure, so cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: What is making my plantain leaves have dark green dots?

Response: Those dark green dots along the veins and leaf edges are a sign of plantain bunchy top virus. The plant will stop growing and never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: Hello, my friend. I see black spots on my cocoa pods. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, you must remove and bury those bad pods deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground, I tell you.


Instruction: My cocoa farm don get black pod. How I go prevent am?

Response: My friend, to stop black pod, you must keep your farm clean and dry. Prune your trees to let light and air in. Also, harvest your pods every two weeks. Do not wait for them to overstay. And during the rainy season, use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox, but follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why my cocoa pods always get black pod when the rain come?

Response: The thing is, black pod disease loves wet and humid conditions. When it rains, the fungus spreads very fast. To stop it, prune your trees to improve airflow. Also, remove any bad pods or deadwood from your farm. This is called sanitation harvesting, and it helps a lot.


Instruction: I see black rot on my cocoa pods. How I go treat am?

Response: You must act fast, my friend. Remove the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in. During the rainy season, use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox, but follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My cocoa farm is always shaded. Is this why I keep getting black pod?

Response: Yes, my friend, shade makes black pod worse. The fungus loves wet and humid conditions. Prune your trees to let light and air in. This will help stop the disease. Also, harvest your pods every two weeks and remove any bad pods or deadwood from your farm.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. Is this black pod disease?

Response: Yes, my friend, those black spots are black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads very fast in wet weather. You must remove and bury those bad pods deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting. What is the cause?

Response: This is black pod disease, my friend. It is caused by a fungus and spreads very fast in wet weather. You must remove and bury those bad pods deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in.


Instruction: I see black rot on my cocoa pods. How I go stop am?

Response: You must act fast, my friend. Remove the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in. During the rainy season, use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox, but follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My cocoa farm is always wet. Is this why I keep getting black pod?

Response: Yes, my friend, wet conditions make black pod worse. The fungus loves humidity. Prune your trees to let light and air in. This will help stop the disease. Also, harvest your pods every two weeks and remove any bad pods or deadwood from your farm.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. How I go prevent am?

Response: My friend, to stop black pod, you must keep your farm clean and dry. Prune your trees to let light and air in. Also, harvest your pods every two weeks. Do not wait for them to overstay. And during the rainy season, use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox, but follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango leaves have dark brown spots. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. It's a fungus that attacks leaves, flowers, and fruits. First thing first, you need to spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango fruits to turn black after harvest?

Response: The thing is, your mangoes might have anthracnose. This fungus can be inside the fruit even before you harvest. It causes dark sunken lesions that get worse as the fruit ripens. To prevent this, handle the fruits carefully during harvest and store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: How can I stop my mango flowers from dying before fruiting?

Response: This is likely blossom blight caused by anthracnose. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation.


Instruction: My mango tree has many dead branches. Should I prune it?

Response: Yes, you should prune your mango tree after every harvest. Remove dead wood and improve air circulation. This helps prevent diseases like anthracnose. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip of the mango. This is the sign for most varieties. Harvest carefully, do not drop the fruits, and store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: Can I use overhead irrigation for my mango trees?

Response: No, my friend. Overhead irrigation keeps the foliage wet for too long, which favours diseases like anthracnose. Use drip irrigation instead to keep the leaves dry.


Instruction: My mango fruits have dark sunken lesions. What should I do?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was likely already inside the fruit. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care to avoid wounds and bruises. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why are my mangoes turning black within 2 days of harvest?

Response: This is likely anthracnose. The fungus can be inside the fruit even before harvest. Handle the fruits carefully during harvest and store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent mango anthracnose in my orchard?

Response: Prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation and handle harvested fruits with care.


Instruction: How can I stop aphids from destroying my cowpea plants?

Response: My friend, first thing first — don't panic. Cowpea aphids are sneaky but we can fight them. Mix neem oil with soap and spray on your plants, especially the young shoots. If it's bad, try garlic spray or pyrethrin insecticide. But listen, don't wait! Check your plants today and start treating.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and sticky. What is happening?

Response: Ah, my friend, that sounds like aphids. They suck the sap and leave sticky honeydew. This honeydew makes black mould grow on leaves. You must act fast! Spray neem oil mixed with soap on your plants. Also, check for ladybird beetles — they help fight aphids. Go check your farm now.


Instruction: How I go treat cowpea wey don get aphids?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. You can mix neem oil with soap and spray it on your cowpea plants. If the aphids are too many, try garlic spray or pyrethrin insecticide. But remember, follow the label instructions carefully. Check your plants today and start treating.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent aphids on my cowpea farm?

Response: To stop aphids, plant your cowpea early in the season. Also, mix it with maize at 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Avoid planting downwind from already infested farms. And listen, plant early to escape peak aphid populations. Start planning your planting today.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting and the leaves are curling. What is the problem?

Response: That sounds like aphids, my friend. They suck the sap and cause wilting and leaf curl. You must act fast! Spray neem oil mixed with soap on your plants. If it's bad, try garlic spray or pyrethrin insecticide. But listen, don't wait! Check your plants today and start treating.


Instruction: How can I control aphids on my cowpea farm without chemicals?

Response: You can use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. These are natural and work well. Also, look for ladybird beetles and hoverflies — they eat aphids. Protect them! But listen, start treating your plants today. Don't wait.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage cowpea aphids?

Response: The best way is to prevent them. Plant early and mix cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio. Avoid planting near infested farms. If aphids come, spray neem oil mixed with soap. If it's bad, try garlic spray or pyrethrin insecticide. But listen, check your plants today and start treating.


Instruction: How can I save my cowpea plants from aphids?

Response: You can save your plants by spraying neem oil mixed with soap. If the aphids are too many, try garlic spray or pyrethrin insecticide. But listen, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts before aphids spread to the whole farm. Go check your plants now.


Instruction: My cowpea farm has aphids. What should I do?

Response: Don't worry, my friend. You can spray neem oil mixed with soap on your plants. If it's bad, try garlic spray or pyrethrin insecticide. But listen, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts before aphids spread to the whole farm. Start treating today.


Instruction: How can I stop aphids from spreading to my cowpea farm?

Response: To stop aphids from spreading, avoid planting downwind from infested farms. Also, plant early to escape peak aphid populations. If aphids come, spray neem oil mixed with soap. If it's bad, try garlic spray or pyrethrin insecticide. But listen, check your plants today and start treating.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from destroying my crop?

Response: My friend, first thing first, you must check your cowpea plants regularly. Cowpea aphids are tiny black or brown insects that suck sap. They cause leaves to curl and turn yellow. To stop them, mix neem oil with soap and spray on the plants. You can also use garlic spray or pyrethrin-based insecticide. Remove and burn heavily infested parts to stop the spread. This week, go and inspect your plants carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaves to turn yellow and curl?

Response: Ah, my friend, that sounds like cowpea aphids. They are small black or brown insects that suck the sap from your plants. This causes the leaves to curl and turn yellow. They also produce sticky honeydew which can lead to black sooty mould. Check your plants today and if you see these tiny insects, take action immediately.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cowpea aphids in my farm?

Response: To prevent cowpea aphids, intercrop your cowpea with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Also, plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Avoid planting downwind or next to infested farms. This week, plan your intercropping layout to protect your cowpea.


Instruction: How do I know if my cowpea has aphids?

Response: Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects clustered on young shoots, flowers, and pods. You may also see leaves curling, turning yellow, or wilting. Check for sticky honeydew on the leaves, which can lead to black sooty mould. Inspect your plants today to catch any infestation early.


Instruction: Can cowpea aphids spread diseases to my crop?

Response: Yes, my friend, cowpea aphids can spread over 30 plant viruses. Even a small infestation is dangerous. They suck sap and spread diseases quickly. Check your plants regularly and take action if you see any signs of aphids. This week, start monitoring your cowpea closely.


Instruction: What is the best way to treat cowpea aphids naturally?

Response: The best natural treatments are neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. You can also use pyrethrin-based insecticide. Remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread. Also, protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps that feed on aphids. Try making a neem oil spray this week.


Instruction: Is it safe to use chemical pesticides on cowpea aphids?

Response: Chemical pesticides like imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray can be used as a last resort. But first, try natural methods like neem oil or garlic spray. Always follow the label instructions carefully. If you must use chemicals, do it safely and as a last option.


Instruction: How can I improve my soil using cowpea?

Response: Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, improving fertility for the next crop. This is a great way to enrich your soil naturally. Plan to rotate your crops and include cowpea in your rotation to boost soil health. Start planning your crop rotation this week.


Instruction: Why is my cowpea plant wilting even though I water it regularly?

Response: Wilting can be caused by cowpea aphids sucking the sap from your plants. Check for small black or brown insects on the leaves, stems, and pods. If you see them, take action immediately. Inspect your plants today to confirm if aphids are the problem.


Instruction: How can I protect my cowpea from aphids if my neighbour's farm is already infested?

Response: Avoid planting downwind or next to infested farms. Intercrop your cowpea with maize in a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Also, plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. This week, reassess your planting location and intercropping plan.


Instruction: How does cassava mosaic disease spread?

Response: My friend, cassava mosaic disease spreads through whiteflies. These tiny insects carry the virus from sick plants to healthy ones. The thing is, the virus can also travel with infected planting stems. So first thing first, always use stems from healthy plants only.


Instruction: Na wetin dey cause cassava mosaic?

Response: Cassava mosaic na virus wey whitefly carry from one plant to another. You go see leaves with yellow and green mosaic patterns, curling and distortion. If you see this, you must act fast to stop the spread.


Instruction: What is the main way cassava mosaic disease spreads?

Response: The main way cassava mosaic disease spreads is through whiteflies. These pests carry the virus from infected plants to healthy ones. Another way is through infected planting stems. So, always use disease-free stems from healthy plants.


Instruction: How can I prevent cassava mosaic disease from spreading in my farm?

Response: To stop cassava mosaic from spreading, first remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Then, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. This week, check your plants and remove any with mosaic patterns.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have yellow and green patches. How does this problem spread?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease. It spreads through whiteflies that carry the virus. Also, the virus can travel with infected planting stems. To stop it, remove and destroy affected plants right away and control whiteflies with neem sprays.


Instruction: Can cassava mosaic disease spread through the soil?

Response: No, cassava mosaic disease does not spread through the soil. It spreads through whiteflies and infected planting stems. So, make sure to use disease-free stems and control whiteflies to prevent the spread.


Instruction: What should I do if I see mosaic patterns on my cassava leaves?

Response: If you see mosaic patterns on your cassava leaves, it means the plant has cassava mosaic disease. Remove and destroy the infected plant immediately to stop the virus from spreading. Also, control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps.


Instruction: How do I know if cassava mosaic disease is spreading in my farm?

Response: You will know cassava mosaic disease is spreading if you see more plants with yellow and green mosaic patterns, curling, and distorted leaves. Check your farm regularly and remove any infected plants right away to stop the spread.


Instruction: My neighbour's cassava has mosaic. Can it spread to my farm?

Response: Yes, it can spread to your farm through whiteflies. These pests can carry the virus from your neighbour's infected plants to yours. To protect your farm, control whiteflies with neem sprays and plant resistant varieties.


Instruction: What is the best way to stop cassava mosaic disease from spreading?

Response: The best way to stop cassava mosaic disease from spreading is to use disease-free planting stems and control whiteflies. Remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419. This week, inspect your plants and take action if you see any signs of mosaic.


Instruction: my cowpea leaves are turning yellow and curling up, wetin dey cause this?

Response: My friend, this could be cowpea aphids. Those tiny black or brown insects you see sucking sap from your plants. They cause yellowing, curling and can spread viruses. First thing first, mix neem oil with soap and spray on your plants. Also, check for natural enemies like ladybird beetles and protect them. They help control aphids for free.


Instruction: How can I grow cowpea without spending much on chemicals?

Response: The thing is, cowpea can do well with little chemicals. Intercrop it with maize at 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Also, use neem oil spray mixed with soap to control pests. It's cheap and effective. Start preparing your land this week for early planting.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea flowers. What is this and how do I stop them?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap and cause stunted growth. They also spread viruses. To control them, spray neem oil mixed with soap on your plants. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the spread. Plant early and intercrop with maize to reduce aphid pressure. Start treating your plants today.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting. Is it lack of water or something else?

Response: It could be cowpea aphids. They suck sap and cause wilting. Check the underside of leaves for tiny black or brown insects. If you see them, mix neem oil with soap and spray on your plants. Also, intercrop with maize to reduce aphid pressure. Start treating your plants this week.


Instruction: How can I prevent cowpea aphids without spending much money?

Response: The best way is to intercrop cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Also, use neem oil spray mixed with soap to control pests. It's cheap and effective. Start preparing your land this week for early planting.


Instruction: I see sticky stuff on my cowpea leaves. What is this and how do I clean it?

Response: That sticky stuff is honeydew from cowpea aphids. It encourages black sooty mould. To clean it, first remove heavily infested parts. Then mix neem oil with soap and spray on your plants. This will control the aphids and prevent more honeydew. Start treating your plants today.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are not growing well. What could be the problem?

Response: It could be cowpea aphids. They suck sap and cause stunted growth. Check the underside of leaves for tiny black or brown insects. If you see them, mix neem oil with soap and spray on your plants. Also, intercrop with maize to reduce aphid pressure. Start treating your plants this week.


Instruction: How can I grow cowpea and improve my soil at the same time?

Response: Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, improving fertility for the next crop. Intercrop it with maize at 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Use neem oil spray mixed with soap to control pests. It's cheap and effective. Start preparing your land this week for early planting.


Instruction: I see small insects on my cowpea pods. What are they and how do I get rid of them?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap and can spread viruses. To get rid of them, mix neem oil with soap and spray on your plants. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the spread. Plant early and intercrop with maize to reduce aphid pressure. Start treating your plants today.


Instruction: My neighbour's cowpea farm has many small black insects. How can I protect my farm?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. To protect your farm, avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Use neem oil spray mixed with soap to control pests. It's cheap and effective. Start preparing your land this week for early planting.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and the plant is stunted. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It is very dangerous and spreads by tiny insects called aphids. There is no cure, so first thing first, remove the infected plants immediately. This will help stop the disease spreading to healthy plants. Next week, check your other plants carefully for yellowing leaves and remove any you find.


Instruction: How can I stop my groundnut plants from getting sick?

Response: To keep your groundnut plants healthy, plant early in the season before the rain really starts. This helps you avoid the peak time for aphids that spread the deadly rosette disease. Also, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. And my friend, do not forget to weed your farm well. Weeds attract aphids which then move to your groundnut plants.


Instruction: Wetin dey happen to my groundnut? The leaves don turn yellow and bunched up.

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It is very serious and spreads by aphids. There is no cure, so you must remove the infected plants immediately to stop it spreading. Next, check all your plants for yellowing leaves and remove any you find. Also, plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing tall. They stay small and bushy. Why?

Response: This is a sign of groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. Unfortunately, there is no cure, so you must remove the infected plants immediately. This will help protect your healthy plants. Also, plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations and use resistant varieties.


Instruction: What should I avoid when planting groundnut?

Response: Do not plant groundnut in waterlogged soil. It causes pod rot and can ruin your harvest. Also, do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer. Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen, so too much nitrogen will give you leaves but not pods. Plant in well-drained sandy loam soil and space your plants properly at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows.


Instruction: How can I prevent my groundnut from getting sick?

Response: To prevent disease, plant early in the season before the rain really starts. This helps you avoid the peak time for aphids that spread the deadly rosette disease. Also, use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series. And my friend, do not forget to weed your farm well. Weeds attract aphids which then move to your groundnut plants.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and the plant is stunted. What is the problem?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It is very serious and spreads by aphids. There is no cure, so you must remove the infected plants immediately to stop it spreading. Next, check all your plants for mottled leaves and remove any you find. Also, plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: What should I not do when growing groundnut?

Response: Do not plant groundnut in waterlogged soil. It causes pod rot and can ruin your harvest. Also, do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer. Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen, so too much nitrogen will give you leaves but not pods. Plant in well-drained sandy loam soil and space your plants properly at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows.


Instruction: Why my groundnut plants no grow well? The leaves don even spread.

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. Unfortunately, there is no cure, so you must remove the infected plants immediately. This will help protect your healthy plants. Also, plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations and use resistant varieties.


Instruction: What are the signs of groundnut rosette disease?

Response: Groundnut rosette disease causes plants to stay small and bushy with yellowed or mottled bunched leaves. There is no cure, so you must remove infected plants immediately to stop it spreading. Next week, check your other plants carefully for yellowing leaves and remove any you find.


Instruction: How I go know if my maize have fall armyworm?

Response: My friend, check your maize leaves early morning or evening. If you see ragged holes like windowpanes and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, that's fall armyworm. Go check now.


Instruction: What causes those funny holes in my maize leaves?

Response: Those funny holes are from fall armyworm caterpillars. They hide inside the whorl and eat your maize leaves at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings to confirm. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl today.


Instruction: My maize don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: It could be fall armyworm. Check for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see them, apply neem-based spray or fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl. Do this now.


Instruction: How do I stop fall armyworm from spreading in my maize field?

Response: First thing first, scout your field early morning or evening. Check 10-20 plants per field. If you find caterpillars, apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars cheaply. Do this today.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant maize to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: Plant maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Space your plants well at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. Intercropping with beans or soybean also reduces fall armyworm attack. Plan your planting now.


Instruction: How can I treat fall armyworm naturally?

Response: Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the maize whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays also work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Try this today.


Instruction: What chemical can I use to control fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: You can use emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos. Always follow the label dosage carefully. But first, try natural methods like fine sand mixed with wood ash or neem-based sprays. Check your field now.


Instruction: How often should I apply fertilizer to my maize?

Response: Apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting and half when the maize reaches knee height. This helps your maize grow strong. Do this today if you haven't already.


Instruction: Why is it important to harvest maize promptly?

Response: Harvesting maize promptly when dry avoids weevils and post-harvest losses in storage. Plan your harvest for this week if your maize is ready.


Instruction: What is the best spacing for maize planting?

Response: Space your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, one seed per hole. This gives your maize enough room to grow strong. Plan your planting now.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. This fungus loves wet weather. The thing is, it can spread quickly and kill flowers or rot fruits. First thing first, prune your tree to improve air flow. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the fungus. You can spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time, follow the label instructions carefully. Do this today if you see more spots.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is likely mango anthracnose, my friend. The fungus attacks flowers and kills them before fruits can form. It spreads fast in wet weather. You need to spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time, follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation. Do this this week to save your flowers.


Instruction: I just harvested my mangoes but they are turning black. What is wrong?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit but you couldn't see it. It spreads fast when the fruit ripens. My friend, next time handle the fruits very carefully — any bruises let the fungus in. Harvest gently, don't drop them, and store them in a cool dry place right away. This week, prune your tree to improve air flow and remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: My mango tree has dark spots on leaves and fruits. How do I stop this?

Response: This is mango anthracnose, a fungus that spreads in wet weather. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time, follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Do this this week to control the disease.


Instruction: Help! My mango fruits are rotting on the tree. What do I do?

Response: No need to panic, but you need to act fast. This is likely mango anthracnose. The fungus causes dark sunken lesions that expand as the fruit ripens. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time, follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation and handle harvested fruits very carefully. Do this today to save your fruits.