Instruction: My rice leaves are dying fast. How I go treat am?

Response: Rice blast is attacking your crop. The fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. Spray fungicide like isoprothiolane as soon as you see leaf spots. Also, reduce nitrogen fertilizer—too much makes the fungus worse. Burn the rice straw after harvest to stop the fungus from spreading next season.


Instruction: I notice strange spots on my rice leaves. Is this a big problem?

Response: Yes, this is rice blast, a very serious disease. The fungus causes diamond-shaped spots that can destroy your crop. Spray tricyclazole fungicide right away and follow the label instructions carefully. Also, make sure your field has proper water levels and balanced fertilizer.


Instruction: My rice plants are weak and falling. What is happening?

Response: This is neck blast, the most damaging form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to break. Spray propiconazole fungicide at the boot stage to prevent more damage. Next season, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57.


Instruction: I see spots on my rice leaves. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is rice blast, a very dangerous fungus. It thrives in cool, wet conditions and can destroy your crop. Spray isoprothiolane fungicide immediately and reduce nitrogen fertilizer. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: My rice leaves are full of spots. How I go save my crop?

Response: This is rice blast, a fast-spreading fungus. Spray tricyclazole fungicide right away and follow the label instructions carefully. Also, make sure your field has proper water levels and balanced fertilizer. Burn the rice straw after harvest to stop the fungus from spreading next season.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over. What is the cause?

Response: This is neck blast, the worst form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to break. Spray propiconazole fungicide at the boot stage to prevent more damage. Next season, plant blast-resistant varieties like NERICA series.


Instruction: My rice leaves are full of spots. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is rice blast, a very dangerous fungus. It thrives in cool, wet conditions and can destroy your crop. Spray isoprothiolane fungicide immediately and reduce nitrogen fertilizer. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: My rice plants are weak and falling. What is the problem?

Response: This is neck blast, the most damaging form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to break. Spray propiconazole fungicide at the boot stage to prevent more damage. Next season, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52.


Instruction: My friend, I see small grey spots on my rice leaves. What is wrong?

Response: That is rice blast disease, my friend. The thing is, if you don't act fast, it will spread. First thing first, don't use too much nitrogen fertilizer. That only makes the disease worse. Spray tricyclazole or isoprothiolane fungicide right away, and follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your field and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: Why my rice plants keep falling down before harvest?

Response: That is neck blast, a very bad type of rice disease. It attacks the stem and makes it weak. Don't wait until it spreads. Spray propiconazole fungicide at boot stage, before the panicle comes out. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA next season. This week, check your field and remove any plants that are already falling.


Instruction: I no dey use too much nitrogen, but my rice still get blast. Why?

Response: Maybe the nights are cool and humid, which helps the fungus grow. Don't let your field dry out and flood alternately. Keep the water level steady. Also, don't overcrowd your seedlings when transplanting. Proper spacing helps reduce disease. Today, check your field and adjust the water level if needed.


Instruction: Can I just burn the rice straw after harvest to stop blast?

Response: Yes, you can. Burning rice straw helps destroy the fungal spores that survive in the crop residues. But don't just rely on that. Also, use balanced NPK fertilizer and don't over-apply nitrogen. Follow the recommended dose. This week, plan how you will manage your crop residues after harvest.


Instruction: What if I see blast on my rice leaves but no fungicide?

Response: No need to panic. First, remove the infected plants to stop the disease from spreading. Then, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 next season. Also, maintain proper water levels in your field and don't overcrowd your seedlings. Today, go around your field and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: Is it true that too much nitrogen makes blast worse?

Response: Yes, that is true. Too much nitrogen is like feeding the fungus directly. Don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and follow the recommended dose. Today, check your fertilizer application and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How I go prevent blast if I no get blast-resistant seeds?

Response: First, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field. Don't let it dry out and flood alternately. Also, don't overcrowd your seedlings when transplanting. Proper spacing reduces disease pressure. Today, check your field and adjust the water level if needed.


Instruction: Why my rice field get blast every year?

Response: Maybe the fungal spores are surviving in the crop residues. Burn the rice straw after harvest to destroy the spores. Also, maintain proper water levels and don't over-apply nitrogen. Plant blast-resistant varieties next season. This week, plan how you will manage your crop residues after harvest.


Instruction: Can I still save my rice if I see blast on the leaves?

Response: Yes, you can. Spray tricyclazole or isoprothiolane fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remove any infected plants to stop the disease from spreading. Today, go around your field and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: What if I no dey spray fungicide and my rice get blast?

Response: First, remove the infected plants to stop the disease from spreading. Then, maintain proper water levels and don't overcrowd your seedlings. Plant blast-resistant varieties next season. Today, go around your field and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are very small, bushy, and have yellow leaves. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by tiny insects called aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets this disease, it will never recover. First thing first, remove and burn the infected plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Then check with your extension officer about resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23 for next season.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and bunched together. Is this a problem?

Response: Yes, this is a serious problem. It's groundnut rosette disease, and it's very dangerous, especially early in the season. The infected plants will never recover, so you must remove and destroy them right away. Also, make sure to plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread this disease.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing tall. They are staying small and bushy. What is the problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will not grow properly and will eventually die. You must remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. For next season, consider planting resistant varieties like the RG 1 series or ask your extension officer for local resistant varieties.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are yellow and mottled. What is causing this?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. The infected plants will not recover, so you must remove and destroy them immediately. Also, make sure to plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread this disease.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are stunted and have bunched leaves. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, it is groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The infected plants will not recover, so you must remove and destroy them immediately. Also, make sure to plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread this disease.


Instruction: My groundnut plants don spoil. Leaves don dey yellow and mottled. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by tiny insects called aphids. The infected plants will not recover, so you must remove and destroy them immediately. Also, make sure to plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread this disease.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are bunched and yellow. Is this a sign of disease?

Response: Yes, this is groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. The infected plants will not recover, so you must remove and destroy them immediately. Also, make sure to plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread this disease.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are very small and bushy. The leaves are yellow and mottled. What is the problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The infected plants will not recover, so you must remove and destroy them immediately. Also, make sure to plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread this disease.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and the plants are not growing tall. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The infected plants will not recover, so you must remove and destroy them immediately. Also, make sure to plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread this disease.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are stunted and have yellow leaves. What is happening to my crop?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The infected plants will not recover, so you must remove and destroy them immediately. Also, make sure to plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread this disease.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and bunching up. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is bunchy top virus. No need to panic but you must act fast. The thing is, there is no cure — you must cut the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Today, go and buy either of these chemicals. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. What is happening?

Response: That is bunchy top virus. It is very bad for plantain. The plant will never produce a bunch. First thing first, cut the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground. Do not waste money on treatment — it will not work. Go and do this today.


Instruction: Can I treat bunchy top virus with any chemical?

Response: No, my friend. There is no cure for bunchy top virus. The moment you see symptoms, cut the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground. Do not waste your money on other chemicals. Go and buy either of these today.


Instruction: My neighbour says I can move suckers from his farm to mine. Is this safe?

Response: No, do not do that! If his farm had bunchy top virus, the virus can travel inside the sucker with no visible signs. Always plant only certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. Today, check where your suckers are coming from.


Instruction: Is it okay to plant many suckers around one parent plant?

Response: No, my friend. You must do desuckering. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat at any time. Too many suckers will compete for nutrients and weaken the plant. Today, go and remove the extra suckers.


Instruction: Can I plant plantain suckers anytime of the year?

Response: No, my friend. Plant at the start of the rainy season for best establishment. This gives the plant the best chance to grow strong. Today, check your planting calendar and plan accordingly.


Instruction: My plantain farm is crowded. Is this a problem?

Response: Yes, it is a problem. Space your plants at 3 metres by 3 metres to allow airflow between plants and ease harvesting. Crowded plants spread disease and make harvesting difficult. Today, start planning how to space your plants properly.


Instruction: I don't mulch my plantain farm. Is this okay?

Response: No, my friend. Mulching is very important. It retains moisture and suppresses weeds. Start mulching heavily around your plants today. Use whatever organic material you have — grass, leaves, or straw.


Instruction: Can I use any fertilizer for plantain?

Response: No, my friend. Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Use a potassium-rich fertilizer. Today, go and buy the right fertilizer for your plantain.


Instruction: I see aphids on my plantain leaves. Should I worry?

Response: Yes, my friend. Aphids spread bunchy top virus. Spray with insecticide to control them. Follow the label instructions carefully. Today, go and buy insecticide if you don't have any.


Instruction: Compare how black pod disease spreads with other cocoa diseases

Response: My friend, black pod disease spreads like fire in the dry season. The thing is, one infected pod can spread to 10 others very fast, especially when it's wet and humid. This is much faster than other cocoa diseases. First thing first, check your farm now and remove any infected pods you see.


Instruction: How does pruning help prevent black pod disease compared to just spraying fungicide?

Response: Pruning helps by letting light and air into the farm, which makes it harder for the disease to spread. Spraying fungicide kills the fungus but doesn't fix the wet, humid conditions that cause the problem. You should do both: prune your trees and spray fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks.


Instruction: Compare the effect of black pod disease to other cocoa diseases

Response: Black pod disease is one of the worst for cocoa. It can destroy up to one third of your harvest in a bad season if you don't manage it. Other diseases might not be as destructive. The key is to remove infected pods quickly and spray fungicide to stop it from spreading.


Instruction: What's the difference between black pod disease and healthy cocoa pods?

Response: Healthy cocoa pods are firm and smooth, with no soft or discoloured spots. Black pod disease starts as brown or black patches that turn into rot. If you see any pods like this, pick them immediately and bury them deeply or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground.


Instruction: How does sanitation harvesting compare to regular harvesting?

Response: Sanitation harvesting is when you remove all the diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood at once. Regular harvesting is when you pick the ripe pods every 2 weeks. Sanitation harvesting helps stop the disease from spreading. Do this every time you harvest.


Instruction: Compare the best time to establish a new cocoa farm with the rainy season

Response: The best time to establish a new cocoa farm is early in the rainy season, not late. If you plant too late, the young plants might not grow strong before the dry season. Start your farm early so the plants have time to grow well before the rain stops.


Instruction: How does mulching help cocoa trees compared to just letting the soil stay bare?

Response: Mulching helps by keeping the soil moist and improving the soil. Bare soil dries out quickly and doesn't hold nutrients well. Mulch the base of your trees with dead leaves to keep the soil healthy and your trees strong. Do this after every harvest.


Instruction: Compare the effect of overstay pods with ripe pods on black pod disease

Response: Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection for black pod disease. Ripe pods are fine, but if you leave pods on the tree too long, they can get infected and spread the disease to other pods. Harvest your pods every 2 weeks to stop this from happening.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause black pod disease for cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease caused by fungus called Phytophthora palmivora and Phytophthora megakarya. It spreads very fast in wet, humid conditions. If you see brown or black patches on your pods, that's black pod disease. Remove the infected pods immediately and bury them deeply or burn them.


Instruction: How does spraying fungicide compare to removing infected pods for controlling black pod disease?

Response: Spraying fungicide kills the fungus that causes black pod disease, but removing infected pods stops the disease from spreading. You need to do both. Spray fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks, and always remove any infected pods you see.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are short, stiff, and crowded at the top. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is banana bunchy top virus. The leaves will show dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. The plant will never produce a bunch — it is a total loss. First thing first: chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: I see dark green dots along the veins of my plantain leaves. What is this?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The dots will turn yellow then brown. The plant will stop growing properly and never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are not growing properly and look crowded at the top. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal. This is banana bunchy top virus. The leaves will show dark green streaks and dots along the veins. The plant is a total loss. Chop it immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaf turn yellow and brown?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The dark green streaks and dots along the veins turn yellow then brown. The plant will never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: My plantain plant has short, stiff leaves. What is wrong with it?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The leaves will show dark green streaks and dots along the veins that turn yellow then brown. The plant will never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is banana bunchy top virus. The streaks will turn yellow then brown. The plant will stop growing properly and never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are crowded at the top and not growing well. What can I do?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The leaves will show dark green streaks and dots along the veins that turn yellow then brown. The plant is a total loss. Chop it immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: I see dark green dots on my plantain leaves. What is this?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The dots will turn yellow then brown. The plant will stop growing properly and never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are stiff and crowded at the top. Is this a pest problem?

Response: No, this is banana bunchy top virus. The leaves will show dark green streaks and dots along the veins that turn yellow then brown. The plant will never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. What is happening to my plant?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The streaks will turn yellow then brown. The plant will stop growing properly and never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: How can I stop tomato blight from spreading in my farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first — remove and destroy any infected leaves or plants you see. Bag them up and burn, don't compost. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rainy season. Always water at the base of the plant to keep leaves dry. Next week, start planting on raised beds to improve drainage.


Instruction: What is the difference between early and late blight in tomatoes?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halos on older leaves, starting from the bottom. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown and can destroy plants in days, especially in wet weather. Both spread fast in wet, cool conditions.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: If the leaves have dark spots with rings and yellow halos, it's early blight. If the spots are water-soaked and turning brown fast, it's late blight. Both diseases love wet weather. First thing, remove and burn the bad leaves. Then spray with fungicide every week in rainy season.


Instruction: How do I space my tomato plants to prevent disease?

Response: Space your tomato plants at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This gives good airflow to keep leaves dry. Also, stake or cage the plants to keep them off the ground. Start doing this as soon as your plants reach 30 cm tall.


Instruction: What should I do if I see brown spots on my tomato leaves?

Response: Those brown spots with rings and yellow halos mean early blight. Remove and burn the infected leaves right away. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during the rainy season. Also, water only at the base of the plants to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my tomatoes to prevent disease?

Response: Harvest your tomatoes every 2 to 3 days. Leaving ripe fruits on the plant too long can attract pests and diseases. Start doing this regularly this week to keep your plants healthy.


Instruction: Can I plant tomatoes in the same plot two seasons in a row?

Response: No, my friend, don't do that. Planting tomatoes in the same plot two seasons in a row can spread disease. Rotate with maize or cowpea instead. Start planning your crop rotation for next season now.


Instruction: What fertilizer should I use for my tomato plants?

Response: Use a balanced NPK fertilizer at planting. When the first flowers appear, top-dress with calcium nitrate. This will help your plants grow strong and healthy. Apply the fertilizer this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: How can I prevent tomato blight in my farm?

Response: To prevent tomato blight, spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during the rainy season. Avoid overhead watering — always water at the base of the plants. Also, plant on raised beds to improve drainage. Start these practices this week.


Instruction: Why are my tomato plants getting wet and dying so fast?

Response: If your plants have water-soaked grey-green patches turning brown fast, it's late blight. This disease spreads quickly in wet, cool weather. Remove and burn the infected plants right away. Then spray with fungicide every week during the rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and bunching up on top. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is bunchy top virus. It is a death sentence for your plantain. The thing is, there is no cure. First thing first: chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do this today before the virus spreads to other plants.


Instruction: Help! My plantain plants are not growing tall. The leaves are short and stiff. What is happening?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. It stops plantains from growing properly. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Cut down the infected plants and inject the stems with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do not waste time or money trying to treat it — it is hopeless.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. Will it affect the bunch?

Response: Yes, this is bunchy top virus. It will never produce a bunch. The plant is a total loss. Do not delay: chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning brown at the edges. What is the problem?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. It starts with dark green streaks and turns the leaves brown. There is no cure, so act fast. Cut down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This is the only way to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: I think my plantain has bunchy top. What do I do now?

Response: You are right to be worried. Bunchy top is deadly. There is no cure, so you must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading to other plants. Do this today.


Instruction: My plantain plants are not producing bunches. The leaves are crowded and stiff. What is wrong?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. It stops the plant from growing properly and producing bunches. There is no cure, so you must act fast. Cut down the infected plants and inject the stems with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaves to turn yellow and bunch up?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. It is very bad. There is no cure, so you must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading to other plants. Do this today.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are short and stiff. The edges are turning brown. What is happening?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. It stops the plant from growing properly and will never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so you must act fast. Cut down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. Will it affect the harvest?

Response: Yes, this is bunchy top virus. It will never produce a bunch. The plant is a total loss. Do not delay: chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: My plantain plants are not growing well. The leaves are crowded and stiff. What should I do?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. It stops the plant from growing properly and producing bunches. There is no cure, so you must act fast. Cut down the infected plants and inject the stems with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading. Do this today.


Instruction: My friend, I plant cowpea but the leaves don curl up like this. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: My friend, this is likely cowpea aphids. Those tiny black insects you see are sucking sap from your plants. First thing first, check the underside of leaves and young shoots. If you see clusters of aphids, you must act fast to stop them spreading.


Instruction: How I go know if my cowpea has too much aphids?

Response: Look for shiny black or dark brown insects clustered on your plants, especially on new growth and flowers. The leaves may curl up or turn yellow. You might also see a sticky substance called honeydew that aphids produce, which can lead to black sooty mould growing on the leaves.


Instruction: My cowpea don spoil for my farm. The leaves don turn yellow and the plants no grow well. How I go treat am?

Response: This sounds like cowpea aphids. You can make a neem oil spray mixed with soap or use garlic spray. If the infestation is very bad, you might need to use a pyrethrin-based insecticide. Remember to follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your farm for natural enemies like ladybird beetles and protect them.


Instruction: I want to plant cowpea but I hear about aphids. How I go prevent them?

Response: First, plant your cowpea early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This helps reduce aphid pressure. Also, avoid planting downwind or next to farms that are already infested. This week, prepare your land and plant early.


Instruction: What can I do to stop aphids from destroying my cowpea farm?

Response: Aphids are a big problem, but you can control them. Spray your plants with neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. If the infestation is severe, you might need to use a pyrethrin-based insecticide. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested parts of your plants to stop the aphids from spreading.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have sticky stuff and black mould. What is this and how I go treat am?

Response: This is likely honeydew from cowpea aphids. The sticky substance encourages black sooty mould to grow on the leaves. First, spray your plants with neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. If the infestation is bad, you might need to use a pyrethrin-based insecticide. Remember to follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I want to plant cowpea but I no want aphids. What I go do?

Response: Plant your cowpea early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This helps reduce aphid pressure. Also, avoid planting downwind or next to farms that are already infested. This week, prepare your land and plant early.


Instruction: My cowpea plants don grow well. The leaves don curl up and turn yellow. How I go fix am?

Response: This sounds like cowpea aphids. You can make a neem oil spray mixed with soap or use garlic spray. If the infestation is very bad, you might need to use a pyrethrin-based insecticide. Remember to follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your farm for natural enemies like ladybird beetles and protect them.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea plants. The leaves don curl up. Wetin dey happen?

Response: Those small black insects are likely cowpea aphids. They suck sap from your plants, causing the leaves to curl up and turn yellow. First thing first, check the underside of leaves and young shoots. If you see clusters of aphids, you must act fast to stop them spreading.


Instruction: My cowpea don spoil. The leaves don curl up and the plants no grow well. How I go treat am?

Response: This sounds like cowpea aphids. You can make a neem oil spray mixed with soap or use garlic spray. If the infestation is very bad, you might need to use a pyrethrin-based insecticide. Remember to follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your farm for natural enemies like ladybird beetles and protect them.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are very small and bushy with yellow leaves. What is wrong?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. The leaves look mottled and bunched, right? This is a deadly virus spread by tiny insects called aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it will never recover. First thing first, pull out and burn all infected plants right away to stop the disease spreading. Then check with your extension officer about resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 for next season.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and the plants stay very small. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This could be groundnut rosette disease. It makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves. The disease comes from tiny insects called aphids. There is no cure, so pull out and burn any affected plants immediately. For next planting, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or RG 1 series to avoid this problem.


Instruction: What should I do if my groundnut plants are stunted with mottled leaves?

Response: This is likely groundnut rosette disease, caused by aphids. The plants will never recover, so remove and burn them right away. To prevent this next time, plant early at the start of rains and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting.


Instruction: My groundnut plants have yellow bunched leaves and are not growing tall. What is the problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is spread by aphids and makes plants stay small with yellow leaves. There is no cure, so remove and burn infected plants immediately. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series to avoid this disease.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut has rosette disease?

Response: Look for plants that stay very small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. This is groundnut rosette disease. It is spread by aphids and there is no cure. Pull out and burn infected plants right away. For next planting, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 and plant early to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and the plants are not growing. What is happening?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by aphids and makes plants stay small with mottled leaves. There is no cure, so remove and burn infected plants immediately. To prevent this next time, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: What does groundnut rosette disease look like?

Response: Groundnut rosette disease makes plants stay very small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. It is spread by aphids and there is no cure. If you see these signs, pull out and burn the infected plants right away. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series to avoid this problem.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and have yellow leaves. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by aphids and makes plants stay small with yellow leaves. There is no cure, so remove and burn infected plants immediately. To prevent this next time, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting.


Instruction: How can I tell if my groundnut has rosette disease?

Response: Look for plants that stay very small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. This is groundnut rosette disease. It is spread by aphids and there is no cure. Pull out and burn infected plants right away. For next planting, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 and plant early to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: What are the signs of groundnut rosette disease?

Response: Groundnut rosette disease makes plants stay very small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. It is spread by aphids and there is no cure. If you see these signs, remove and burn the infected plants immediately. To prevent this next time, plant early and use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are curling and turning yellow. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cowpea aphids. They suck sap and cause leaves to curl and turn yellow. Check the underside of leaves for small black or brown insects. If you see them, act fast to stop them spreading.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaves go turn yellow and wilt?

Response: Aphids could be the problem. They suck plant sap and leave a sticky mess. Check your leaves for tiny black or brown insects. If you find them, you must treat them quickly before they ruin your crop.


Instruction: Why are my cowpea plants stunted and not growing well?

Response: Aphids might be attacking your plants. They suck the sap and stop the plants from growing properly. Look for small black or brown insects on the leaves. If you see them, you need to take action right away.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea flowers and pods. What are they?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They cluster on flowers and pods, sucking sap and spreading disease. They are very dangerous for your crop. You must control them immediately.


Instruction: What is the sticky black substance on my cowpea leaves?

Response: That is honeydew from aphids. They produce it and it encourages black sooty mould to grow. This blocks sunlight and harms your plants. Check for aphids and treat them quickly.


Instruction: My cowpea plants have black spots and are not growing well. What is wrong?

Response: This could be sooty mould caused by aphids. They leave a sticky substance that turns black. Look for small black or brown insects on your plants. If you find them, you must treat them fast.


Instruction: How do I know if my cowpea plants have aphids?

Response: Check the young shoots, flowers, and pods for small shiny black or dark brown insects. They cluster together and suck sap from the plant. If you see them, you need to act immediately.


Instruction: Why are my cowpea leaves curling and have black spots?

Response: Aphids might be the cause. They suck sap and cause leaves to curl. The black spots are sooty mould from the sticky honeydew they produce. Look for aphids and treat them quickly.


Instruction: What should I do if I see small black insects on my cowpea plants?

Response: Those are aphids. They are very dangerous and spread disease. First thing first, remove and destroy the heavily infested parts. Then spray with neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. This will help control them.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting and have small black insects. What can I do?

Response: Those are aphids. They suck sap and cause wilting. Act fast to stop them spreading. Remove and destroy the worst affected parts. Then spray with neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. This will help save your crop.


Instruction: How I go know if my tomato get blight?

Response: My friend, check your lower leaves first. Early blight gives dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo. Late blight shows water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. If you see these, remove and burn those leaves right away.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent tomato blight?

Response: First thing first, keep your plants dry. Water only at the base, never wet the leaves. Spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: It could be blight. Check for dark spots or water-soaked patches. Blight spreads fast in wet weather. Remove bad leaves now and burn them. Don't compost them.


Instruction: How often should I spray my tomatoes to prevent blight?

Response: During rainy season, spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every 7 days. Always follow the label instructions carefully. This will help protect your plants.


Instruction: What should I do if I see blight on my tomato plants?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Remove and burn any infected leaves or plants. Do not compost them. Spray fungicide right away and keep doing it weekly in wet weather.


Instruction: How should I space my tomato plants to prevent disease?

Response: Space them 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This gives good airflow. Also, stake or cage your plants to keep them off the ground.


Instruction: Can I plant tomatoes in the same place every year?

Response: I tell you no, don't do that. Rotate with maize or cowpea. This helps stop diseases like blight from building up in the soil.


Instruction: What fertilizer should I use for my tomatoes?

Response: Use balanced NPK at planting. When flowers appear, top-dress with calcium nitrate. This helps your plants grow strong and healthy.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my tomatoes?

Response: Harvest every 2 to 3 days. Don't leave ripe fruits on the plant too long. This helps prevent pests and disease.


Instruction: What can I do today to protect my tomatoes from blight?

Response: Check your plants now, especially lower leaves. Remove any bad leaves and burn them. Start spraying fungicide if it's rainy season. Water only at the base of the plants.


Instruction: How I go know if cowpea aphid don attack my farm?

Response: My friend, check for small black or dark brown insects on young shoots, flowers and pods. If you see them sucking sap, that's cowpea aphid. They cause stunted growth, leaf curl, yellowing and wilting. Check your plants today and if you see these signs, act fast.


Instruction: What is the best way to stop cowpea aphids from destroying my crop?

Response: First thing first, intercrop your cowpea with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Also, plant early to escape peak aphid populations. If you already have infestation, remove and destroy heavily infested parts. Today, mix neem oil with soap and spray on affected plants.


Instruction: Why my cowpea leaves turn yellow and wilt?

Response: That's likely cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the plant, causing yellowing and wilting. They also produce sticky honeydew that blocks sunlight. Check your plants for small black or dark brown insects. If you see them, spray with neem oil mixed with soap.


Instruction: How I go prevent cowpea aphid for next planting season?

Response: Plant early to escape peak aphid populations. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and hoverflies. They feed on aphids. Start planning your next planting today.


Instruction: What can I do if my cowpea plants have black mould on the leaves?

Response: That's sooty mould, caused by aphid honeydew. Check for small black or dark brown insects on your plants. If you see them, remove and destroy heavily infested parts. Today, mix neem oil with soap and spray on affected plants.


Instruction: Is it true cowpea aphids spread disease?

Response: Yes, I tell you. Cowpea aphids spread more than 30 plant viruses. Even a small infestation is a big threat. Check your plants for small black or dark brown insects. If you see them, act fast. Today, remove and destroy heavily infested parts.


Instruction: How I go treat cowpea aphid with chemical?

Response: As a last resort, you can use imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray. But first try natural methods like neem oil spray or garlic spray. Follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your plants and decide on the best action.


Instruction: Why cowpea aphids don attack my neighbour's farm but dey attack my own?

Response: Maybe your farm is downwind or next to already infested farms. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Also, plant early to escape peak aphid populations. Today, check your farming practices and make adjustments.


Instruction: What is the benefit of growing cowpea?

Response: Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, improving fertility for the next crop. It's a good rotation crop. Today, plan how you will use this benefit in your farming.


Instruction: How I go know if my cowpea plants have cowpea aphids?

Response: Look for small black or dark brown insects on young shoots, flowers and pods. They cause stunted growth, leaf curl, yellowing and wilting. Check your plants today and if you see these signs, act fast. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts.


Instruction: My rice leaves have brown spots with white centres. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is rice blast disease. The fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. First thing first, stop adding nitrogen fertilizer now. You can spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide today if you see these spots.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over before harvest. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this is neck blast. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Next time, spray fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series next season.


Instruction: Can I apply too much nitrogen fertilizer to my rice field?

Response: My friend, never over-apply nitrogen. Too much nitrogen is like feeding the blast fungus directly. Stick to the recommended dose and use balanced NPK fertilizer. Today, check your fertilizer bag for the correct application rate.


Instruction: Is it good to let my rice field dry out between watering?

Response: No, no, no! Alternating dry and wet conditions makes blast disease worse. Keep water levels steady in your paddy field. Check your field today and adjust water levels if needed.


Instruction: Should I plant my rice seedlings too close together?

Response: Never overcrowd your seedlings. Too many plants together creates perfect conditions for blast disease. Space them properly during transplanting. Today, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: What should I do with rice straw after harvest?

Response: Do not leave rice straw in the field. Burn it to destroy fungal spores. This is very important for preventing blast disease next season. Plan to clear and burn straw this week.


Instruction: Can I wait to spray fungicide until I see neck blast?

Response: No, no, no! By the time you see neck blast, it is too late. Spray fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. For neck blast prevention, spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Check your field today and spray if needed.


Instruction: Is it okay to use any nitrogen fertilizer for my rice?

Response: No, no, no! Too much nitrogen feeds the blast fungus. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your fertilizer bag for the correct NPK ratio.


Instruction: My rice leaves have diamond-shaped spots. How I go treat am?

Response: This is rice blast disease. Stop adding nitrogen fertilizer now. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide today. Next season, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 or NERICA series.


Instruction: What should I do if my rice field has heavy dew?

Response: Heavy dew creates perfect conditions for blast disease. Make sure your field has good drainage and airflow. Today, check your field and adjust water levels if needed to reduce dew formation.


Instruction: How do I save my tomato plants from the blight disease that is spreading quickly?

Response: My friend, first thing first — remove all infected leaves and plant parts immediately. Put them in a bag and burn them, don't compost. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Water only at the base of the plants to keep leaves dry. Today, go and check all your plants and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: My tomato leaves get brown spots with rings, what do I do?

Response: That sounds like early blight. The thing is, it spreads fast in wet weather. Remove the bad leaves right now and burn them. Then spray with chlorothalonil every week during the rainy season. Also, make sure to water only at the base of the plants. This week, check all your plants and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: How I go treat tomato blight for my plants?

Response: First, remove and destroy all infected leaves and plant parts by burning them. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Avoid watering the leaves — always water at the base. Today, go and check your plants and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: Tomato leaves don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: That could be blight, my friend. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove the bad leaves and burn them. Then spray with chlorothalonil every week during the rainy season. Also, water only at the base of the plants. This week, check all your plants and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: What should I do if my tomato plants have grey-green patches that turn brown quickly?

Response: That sounds like late blight, a very dangerous disease. Remove and destroy all infected parts by burning them immediately. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Avoid watering the leaves — always water at the base. Today, go and check your plants and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: How can I prevent blight from destroying my tomato farm?

Response: First, rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. Plant on raised beds for better drainage. Spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Water only at the base of the plants. This week, check your plants and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: My tomato plants get wet and then get blight, how do I stop this?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. Avoid overhead watering — always water at the base of the plants to keep the leaves dry. Remove and destroy any infected leaves by burning them. Spray with chlorothalonil every week during the rainy season. Today, check your plants and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: What is the best way to treat tomato blight in rainy season?

Response: First, remove and destroy all infected leaves and plant parts by burning them. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days. Avoid watering the leaves — always water at the base. This week, check all your plants and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: How do I manage blight in my tomato farm during heavy rains?

Response: Blight spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and destroy all infected parts by burning them immediately. Spray with chlorothalonil every week during the rainy season. Avoid watering the leaves — always water at the base. Today, go and check your plants and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: What can I do to protect my tomato plants from blight?

Response: First, rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. Plant on raised beds for better drainage. Spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Water only at the base of the plants. This week, check your plants and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: FarmBot, my groundnut leaves are turning yellow and the plants are stunted. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. The leaves get yellow, mottled and bunched up. The plant stays small and bushy. This is a deadly virus spread by aphids. There is no cure, so you must remove the infected plants immediately to stop it spreading. Check your farm today and pull out any plants that look like this.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut to no grow well?

Response: If your groundnut is not growing well, it could be groundnut rosette disease. The leaves turn yellow and mottled, and the plant stays small. This is a deadly virus spread by aphids. There is no cure, so you must remove the infected plants immediately. Check your farm today and pull out any plants that look like this.


Instruction: How do I prevent groundnut rosette disease?

Response: First thing first, plant early at the very start of rains to escape peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22, SAMNUT 23 or RG 1 series. Ask your extension officer for local resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting. Weed your farm well — weeds host aphids which then move to groundnut plants. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and bushy. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal. It sounds like groundnut rosette disease. Infected plants stay small and bushy with yellowed or mottled leaves. This is a deadly virus with no cure. You must remove the infected plants immediately to stop it spreading. Check your farm today and pull out any plants that look like this.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut has rosette disease?

Response: Look for plants that are severely stunted, staying small and bushy. The leaves will be yellowed or mottled and bunched up. This is groundnut rosette disease, a deadly virus with no cure. You must remove the infected plants immediately to stop it spreading. Check your farm today and pull out any plants that look like this.


Instruction: What type of soil is best for groundnut?

Response: Groundnut grows best in well-drained sandy loam soil. Waterlogged soil causes pod rot. If your soil is heavy or clayey, consider planting in ridges or mounds to improve drainage. Check your soil this week and make sure it is well-drained.


Instruction: How should I space my groundnut plants?

Response: Space your groundnut plants at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows. This spacing helps with good canopy closure against weeds. If your plants are too close, they will compete for nutrients and water. Check your spacing this week and thin out if necessary.


Instruction: When should I harvest my groundnut?

Response: Harvest your groundnut before heavy rains arrive. Wet pods can get contaminated with aflatoxin, which is very dangerous. If you see the pods turning yellow and the leaves drying, it is time to harvest. Check your groundnut this week and plan your harvest.


Instruction: How do I dry my groundnut properly?

Response: Dry your groundnut pods properly before storage. Moisture above 9 percent causes aflatoxin, which is very dangerous. Spread the pods in a single layer under the sun or in a well-ventilated area. Turn them regularly for even drying. Check your drying pods this week and make sure they are drying properly.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: My friend, look for ragged holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes. Check inside the whorl for wet sawdust-like droppings. That is the clearest sign. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come out. Go check your maize now.


Instruction: What can I do to stop fall armyworm from spreading?

Response: First thing first, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays also work well in the first 2 weeks. Try these today before the problem gets worse.


Instruction: My maize don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: If you see ragged holes and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, it is fall armyworm. Scout early morning or evening to confirm. Mix sand with wood ash and apply it inside the whorl. Do this now.


Instruction: How can I plant maize to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: Plant at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Space plants well — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. Intercropping with beans or soybean also helps. Start planning your next planting now.


Instruction: What is the best way to apply fertilizer to maize?

Response: Apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting, half when the maize reaches knee height. This helps the maize grow strong. Do not apply all at once. Check your fertilizer supply and plan accordingly.


Instruction: How can I tell if fall armyworm is in my maize?

Response: Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come out. Check 10-20 plants per field. Go check your maize now.


Instruction: What chemicals can I use to control fall armyworm?

Response: Emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos can work, but follow the label dosage carefully. Neem-based sprays are also effective for young caterpillars. Try neem first before using chemicals. Check your sprayer and prepare.


Instruction: Why is my maize not growing well?

Response: If you see ragged holes and wet droppings, it is fall armyworm. If not, check your fertilizer. Apply nitrogen in two splits — half at planting, half at knee height. Also, ensure proper spacing. Check your maize and soil now.


Instruction: How I go treat fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays also work well in the first 2 weeks. Try these today before the problem gets worse.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: Plant at the right time and space your maize well. Intercropping with beans or soybean also helps. Start planning your next planting now. No need to panic, just act wisely.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads very fast in wet weather. The thing is, if you don't act quickly, it can destroy a lot of your harvest. First thing first, remove all the infected pods and bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Then, prune your trees to allow more air and light inside the farm. This week, start applying a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season.


Instruction: How I go treat dis black pod for my cocoa?

Response: To treat black pod disease, you must remove all infected pods immediately. Cut them off and bury them deeply or burn them. No need to panic, but act fast. After that, prune your cocoa trees to improve airflow. This will help reduce the humidity that the fungus loves. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. This week, start by removing all infected pods and pruning your trees.


Instruction: What should I do if my cocoa pods are rotting and turning black?

Response: If your cocoa pods are rotting and turning black, it is black pod disease. This disease spreads very fast in wet conditions. The best thing to do is remove all infected pods and either bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. After that, prune your trees to allow more light and air into the canopy. This will help reduce the humidity that the fungus thrives in. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. This week, start by removing all infected pods and pruning your trees.


Instruction: My cocoa farm has black pod disease. What steps should I take to control it?

Response: To control black pod disease, you need to act quickly. First, remove all infected pods and either bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Next, prune your cocoa trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. This will help prevent the spread of the disease. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. This week, start by removing all infected pods and pruning your trees.


Instruction: How can I prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: To prevent black pod disease, you need to keep your cocoa farm clean and well-aired. Prune your trees regularly to allow light and air into the canopy. This will reduce the humidity that the fungus loves. Also, practice sanitation harvesting by removing diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood all at once. Do not establish new farms too late in the rainy season. This week, start by pruning your trees and removing any diseased pods or deadwood.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis black pod for my cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease is caused by a fungus called Phytophthora palmivora and Phytophthora megakarya. It spreads very fast in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. The thing is, one infected pod can infect up to 10 others. To stop it, remove all infected pods and either bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. This week, start by removing all infected pods and pruning your trees.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: The best way to manage black pod disease is to act fast. Remove all infected pods and either bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. This week, start by removing all infected pods and pruning your trees.


Instruction: How do I treat black pod disease on my cocoa trees?

Response: To treat black pod disease, you need to remove all infected pods immediately. Cut them off and either bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. After that, prune your trees to allow more air and light into the canopy. This will help reduce the humidity that the fungus thrives in. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. This week, start by removing all infected pods and pruning your trees.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black spots on my cocoa pods?

Response: If you see black spots on your cocoa pods, it is black pod disease. This disease spreads very fast in wet conditions. The best thing to do is remove all infected pods and either bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Next, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. This week, start by removing all infected pods and pruning your trees.


Instruction: How can I stop the spread of black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: To stop the spread of black pod disease, you need to act quickly. Remove all infected pods and either bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. This week, start by removing all infected pods and pruning your trees.


Instruction: User asks: 'How I go prevent plantain bunchy top?'

Response: My friend, first thing first: bunchy top is a deadly virus. The thing is, there is no cure. But you can prevent it! Plant only clean suckers from trusted sources. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. This week, check your plantain farm for any new suckers and remove extra ones — keep only 1 to 2 followers per mat.


Instruction: User asks: 'What is plantain bunchy top?'

Response: Bunchy top is a serious virus disease. It makes leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. The plant stops growing and will never produce a bunch. It is a complete loss. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: User asks in pidgin: 'My plantain don dey get small leaf for top, leaf dey turn yellow, wetin dey cause this?'

Response: Oh no, my friend! This sounds like bunchy top virus. There is no cure, but you must act fast. Chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Then, check all your other plants carefully. If you see any signs, remove those plants too. This week, make sure to only keep 1 to 2 followers per mat and remove extra suckers.


Instruction: User asks: 'When is the best time to plant plantain?'

Response: The best time to plant plantain is at the start of the rainy season. This gives the suckers enough water to establish well. If it's not yet rainy season, prepare your farm by clearing weeds and applying compost. When the rains come, you'll be ready to plant.


Instruction: User asks: 'How far should I space my plantain plants?'

Response: Space your plantain plants at 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows good airflow between plants, which helps prevent diseases. It also makes harvesting easier. If your plants are too close, they will compete for nutrients and water. This week, measure your farm and plan where to plant your suckers.


Instruction: User asks in pidgin: 'How I go know say my plantain get bunchy top?'

Response: Check your plantain leaves, my friend. If the leaves are short, stiff, and crowded at the top, that's a sign. Also look for dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. If you see these signs, no need to panic, but you must act fast. Chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Then, check all your other plants carefully.


Instruction: User asks: 'What should I do to prevent bunchy top in my plantain farm?'

Response: Prevention is key, my friend. Plant only certified clean suckers from disease-free sources. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Keep your farm clean by removing weeds and extra suckers. This week, inspect your plants and remove any extra suckers, keeping only 1 to 2 followers per mat.


Instruction: User asks: 'Is there any treatment for bunchy top?'

Response: I tell you, there is no treatment for bunchy top. It is a virus, and once a plant is infected, it is a complete loss. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This prevents the virus from spreading. This week, check your plants and remove any that show signs of bunchy top.


Instruction: User asks: 'What is the best fertilizer for plantain?'

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Use a potassium-rich fertilizer to help your plants grow well. Apply the fertilizer according to the label instructions carefully. If you don't have commercial fertilizer, you can use compost or manure. This week, apply fertilizer to your plantain farm to give your plants a boost.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: My friend, check for ragged holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come out. Check 10-20 plants per field. If you see these signs, act fast!


Instruction: What is the best way to control fall armyworm without chemicals?

Response: First thing first, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars cheaply. Neem-based sprays also work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. You can make this today and apply it tomorrow morning.


Instruction: My maize don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: If you see ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, it might be fall armyworm. Scout early morning or evening to confirm. If it is fall armyworm, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm from attacking my maize?

Response: Plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Also, always scout your field early morning or evening to catch any signs early.


Instruction: What is the best chemical to use against fall armyworm?

Response: Chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos can work. But remember, always follow the label dosage carefully. If you can, try neem-based sprays first for young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation.


Instruction: How should I space my maize plants to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: Space your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, one seed per hole. This spacing helps your maize grow strong and reduces the chance of fall armyworm attack. Also, intercrop with beans or soybean for extra protection.


Instruction: What should I do if I find fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: No need to panic. First, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl to kill the caterpillars. If the infestation is severe, consider using neem-based sprays or chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos. Always follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How do I know when to apply nitrogen fertilizer to my maize?

Response: Apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting and half when the maize reaches knee height. This helps your maize grow strong and healthy. Don't forget to harvest promptly when dry to avoid weevils and post-harvest losses in storage.


Instruction: Why is my maize not growing well?

Response: Check if you planted at the right time and spaced properly — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. Also, ensure you applied nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting and half at knee height. If you see ragged holes in the leaves, it might be fall armyworm.


Instruction: How can I stop fall armyworm from spreading to other parts of my farm?

Response: Scout your field early morning or evening to catch any signs early. If you find fall armyworm, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl to kill the caterpillars. Also, intercrop maize with beans or soybean to reduce the chance of attack. Act fast to stop the spread!


Instruction: My tomato leaves have brown spots with rings, what is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. The thing is, it starts from the bottom leaves and spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove those infected leaves and burn them — don't compost. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, water at the base of plants, not on the leaves.


Instruction: How I go treat tomato blight if my plants get it?

Response: When you see blight, no need to panic. First, remove and burn any infected parts. Then spray with fungicide like chlorothalonil every week in wet weather. Also, make sure your plants have good airflow — space them well and stake them up. Water only at the base, not on the leaves.


Instruction: My tomato plants have grey-green patches that turn brown fast, what do I do?

Response: This is late blight, and it spreads very fast in wet weather. Quick quick, remove and burn any infected leaves. Then spray with copper-based fungicide every 7 days. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage and reduce soil splash onto leaves.


Instruction: What can I do to stop blight from killing my tomato plants?

Response: To stop blight, first remove and destroy any infected leaves. Then spray with mancozeb or chlorothalonil every week in rainy season. Also, avoid overhead watering — water at the base of plants. And don't plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row — rotate with maize or cowpea.


Instruction: How can I prevent tomato blight in my farm?

Response: To prevent blight, spray with fungicide like copper-based products every week during rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds for better drainage. Space your plants well for good airflow and water only at the base, not on the leaves. Rotate your crops too — don't plant tomato in the same plot two years in a row.


Instruction: My tomato leaves don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: This could be blight, either early or late blight. Early blight has brown spots with rings, while late blight causes grey-green patches that turn brown fast. First thing, remove and burn the infected leaves. Then spray with fungicide every week in wet weather. Also, make sure your plants have good airflow and don't water the leaves.


Instruction: What should I do if my tomato plants have brown spots and yellow halos?

Response: This is early blight. First, remove and burn the infected leaves. Then spray with mancozeb or chlorothalonil every week during rainy season. Also, water at the base of plants, not on the leaves. And make sure your plants have good airflow by spacing them well.


Instruction: How can I save my tomato plants from blight?

Response: To save your plants, first remove and burn any infected parts. Then spray with fungicide like chlorothalonil every week in wet weather. Also, plant on raised beds next time for better drainage. And don't forget to rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row.


Instruction: What is the best way to treat tomato blight?

Response: The best way is to act fast. Remove and burn any infected leaves. Then spray with copper-based fungicide every week in rainy season. Also, water at the base of plants and make sure they have good airflow. Rotate your crops too — don't plant tomato in the same plot two years in a row.


Instruction: My tomato plants have grey patches that turn brown fast, how I go treat am?

Response: This is late blight, and it spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing, remove and burn any infected leaves. Then spray with fungicide like mancozeb every week. Also, plant on raised beds next time for better drainage. And don't forget to rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. It's a fungus that causes dark brown spots on leaves. The thing is, it also attacks flowers and fruits. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground.


Instruction: How I go treat mango anthracnose?

Response: To treat mango anthracnose, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation.


Instruction: Why my mangoes spoil so fast after harvest?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Handle fruits carefully during harvest — no dropping or bruising. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying. What is the problem?

Response: This is likely blossom blight caused by anthracnose. It kills flowers before fruit sets. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage to prevent this. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: Prevent anthracnose by pruning your tree after harvest to improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation. Harvest fruits at the right maturity and handle them carefully.


Instruction: My mango fruits have dark spots. What can I do?

Response: Those dark spots are anthracnose. The fungus spreads in high humidity and rain. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: When should I harvest my mangoes to prevent spoilage?

Response: Harvest when you see a slight colour change at the tip. Handle fruits carefully — no dropping or bruising. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately. This will help prevent spoilage.


Instruction: How do I know if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: Check for dark brown spots on leaves. Look for blossom blight on flowers and dark sunken lesions on fruits. If you see these, it's anthracnose. Remove infected leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: My mangoes don spoil after 2 days. Wetin dey cause dis?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Handle fruits carefully during harvest — no dropping or bruising. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage mango anthracnose?

Response: Manage anthracnose by spraying mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage. Repeat every 10 days during rains. Prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is black pod disease. It’s caused by fungus and spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, pick all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don’t leave them on the ground.


Instruction: I see brown patches on my cocoa pods. What could be the problem?

Response: This is likely black pod disease. The fungus loves wet, humid conditions. To stop it, prune your trees to let more air and light in. Also, check your farm every two weeks and remove any infected pods immediately.


Instruction: My cocoa farm has black spots on the pods. How did this happen?

Response: This is black pod disease, caused by fungus. It spreads quickly in wet and shaded areas. The thing is, one bad pod can infect many others. So, pick and destroy all the bad pods right away.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cocoa pods go turn black like dis?

Response: This is black pod disease, my friend. The fungus spreads fast in wet weather. You must remove and burn all the bad pods to stop it. Don’t leave them on the ground.


Instruction: I have black patches on my cocoa pods. What is this disease?

Response: This is black pod disease, caused by a fungus. It spreads quickly in wet and humid conditions. To stop it, prune your trees to improve airflow and remove all infected pods right away.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting and turning black. What should I do?

Response: This is black pod disease. The fungus spreads fast in wet weather. First, pick all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Also, prune your trees to let more air and light in.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. How can I stop this?

Response: This is black pod disease. The fungus loves wet and humid conditions. To stop it, remove all the bad pods and burn them. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is causing this?

Response: This is black pod disease, caused by a fungus. It spreads fast in wet and humid conditions. The thing is, one bad pod can infect many others. So, remove and destroy all the bad pods immediately.


Instruction: I have black patches on my cocoa pods. What is this problem?

Response: This is black pod disease, caused by a fungus. It spreads quickly in wet and humid conditions. To stop it, prune your trees to improve airflow and remove all infected pods right away.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting and turning black. What is this disease?

Response: This is black pod disease. The fungus spreads fast in wet weather. First, pick all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Also, prune your trees to let more air and light in.


Instruction: How can I stop my tomato leaves from getting these brown spots with rings?

Response: My friend, those are signs of early blight. First thing first, remove and burn any leaves with spots. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during the rainy season. Also, water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. Today, go and check all your plants and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil with wet, brown patches — wetin dey cause this?

Response: This sounds like late blight, a very serious disease. The thing is, it spreads fast in wet weather. You must act quickly: remove and burn all infected leaves and plants. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide every 7 days. Also, stop watering from above and plant in ridges next time for better drainage.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent tomato diseases in my garden?

Response: To prevent diseases, always stake or cage your tomato plants to keep them off the ground. Space them well for good airflow. Avoid planting tomatoes in the same spot two years in a row. Rotate with maize or cowpea. This week, check your plants and remove any bad leaves to stop diseases from spreading.


Instruction: How should I space my tomato plants for good growth?

Response: Space your tomato plants at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This gives them room to grow and improves airflow, which helps prevent diseases. Today, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: Why is it important to harvest tomatoes regularly?

Response: Harvesting regularly every 2 to 3 days keeps your plants healthy and productive. Leaving ripe fruits too long can attract pests and diseases. This week, make a plan to check and harvest your tomatoes often.


Instruction: What fertilizer should I use for my tomato plants?

Response: Use a balanced NPK fertilizer at planting time. When the flowers appear, top-dress with calcium nitrate. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your fertilizer supply and plan your application.


Instruction: How can I protect my tomato plants from blight?

Response: To protect your plants, spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Remove and burn any infected leaves immediately. Also, avoid overhead watering and plant on raised beds for better drainage. This week, inspect your plants and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: My tomato plants are growing on the ground — is this bad?

Response: Yes, it is bad. Keep your tomato plants off the ground by staking or caging them at 30 cm height. This helps prevent diseases and pests. Today, gather materials to stake or cage your plants if you haven't already.


Instruction: What should I do if I see wet, brown patches on my tomato leaves?

Response: This is likely late blight. Act fast: remove and burn all infected leaves and plants. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide every week. Also, avoid watering from above and plant in ridges next time. This week, check all your plants and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: How often should I spray fungicide on my tomato plants?

Response: Spray fungicide like mancozeb or copper-based every 7 days during the rainy season to prevent blight. Always follow the label instructions carefully. This week, make a schedule for your fungicide applications.


Instruction: My friend, how I go prevent groundnut rosette from attacking my farm?

Response: First thing first, plant early at the very start of rains to escape peak aphid populations. Also use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. This week, you should check with your extension officer for local resistant varieties.


Instruction: What can I do to stop groundnut rosette from destroying my crop?

Response: The thing is, groundnut rosette has no cure once it infects plants. But you can prevent it by planting resistant varieties and controlling aphids with insecticide seed treatment. This week, check your seeds and treat them if you haven't already.


Instruction: How do I protect my groundnut from the deadly rosette disease?

Response: Groundnut rosette is spread by aphids, so plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, weed your farm well because weeds host aphids. This week, clear any weeds around your groundnut farm.


Instruction: My groundnut don dey small and bushy with yellow leaves, wetin dey cause this?

Response: That sounds like groundnut rosette disease. There is no cure, so remove infected plants immediately. To prevent it, plant resistant varieties and control aphids. This week, check your plants and remove any that look infected.


Instruction: What should I do to keep my groundnut farm safe from rosette disease?

Response: Plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment. This week, treat your seeds if you haven't already.


Instruction: How can I make sure my groundnut plants don't get rosette disease?

Response: Plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm well-weeded because weeds attract aphids which spread the disease. This week, clear any weeds around your groundnut farm.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent groundnut rosette in my farm?

Response: Plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment. This week, check your seeds and treat them if needed.


Instruction: How I go stop groundnut rosette from killing my plants?

Response: There is no cure for groundnut rosette, so remove infected plants immediately. To prevent it, plant resistant varieties and control aphids. This week, check your plants and remove any that look infected.


Instruction: What can I do to avoid groundnut rosette disease in my farm?

Response: Plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment. This week, treat your seeds if you haven't already.


Instruction: How do I keep my groundnut plants healthy and free from rosette disease?

Response: Plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm well-weeded because weeds attract aphids which spread the disease. This week, clear any weeds around your groundnut farm.


Instruction: Explain what rice blast disease is in simple terms

Response: Rice blast is a bad fungus that attacks rice leaves and stems. On leaves, you will see diamond-shaped spots with grey centers and brown edges. The worst type is neck blast, which makes the rice stalk fall over before harvest. This disease loves cool nights and wet conditions.


Instruction: What should not be done to prevent rice blast?

Response: First thing first, do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen feeds the fungus that causes rice blast. Also, do not let your paddy field dry out and flood alternately. Keep the water level steady. And never overcrowd your seedlings during transplanting.


Instruction: My rice leaves don get small brown spots with grey centers, wetin dey cause this?

Response: That sounds like rice blast disease, my friend. The fungus loves wet conditions and cool nights. The thing is, too much nitrogen fertilizer makes it worse. Stop adding more nitrogen and spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of these spots.


Instruction: What is the worst mistake farmers make with rice blast?

Response: The worst mistake is waiting too long to treat it. By the time you see neck blast—where the stem falls over—it is already too late. Another big mistake is over-applying nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen is like feeding the fungus directly. Spray fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions and at boot stage to prevent neck blast.


Instruction: How can I avoid neck blast in my rice farm?

Response: To avoid neck blast, do not wait until you see the disease. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the boot stage, before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything! Also, do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen makes the disease worse.


Instruction: What should not be done after harvesting rice to prevent blast disease?

Response: Do not leave rice straw in the field after harvest. Burn the straw to destroy fungal spores that survive in crop residues. Also, do not plant the same variety in the same field year after year. Rotate with other crops to reduce disease pressure.


Instruction: My rice stems don fall over before harvest, how I go treat am?

Response: That is neck blast, my friend. The thing is, it is too late to save the stems that have already fallen. But you can still save the rest of your farm. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide immediately. Also, do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer in the future. Too much nitrogen makes neck blast worse.


Instruction: What is the biggest mistake farmers make with rice blast prevention?

Response: The biggest mistake is over-applying nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen feeds the fungus that causes rice blast. Another mistake is not maintaining proper water levels in the paddy field. Do not let the field dry out and flood alternately. Keep the water level steady to reduce disease pressure.


Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from destroying my farm?

Response: To stop rice blast, do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen makes the disease worse. Also, do not overcrowd your seedlings during transplanting. Proper spacing reduces disease pressure. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or FARO 57. And spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions.


Instruction: How is plantain bunchy top different from normal plantain growth?

Response: My friend, bunchy top makes leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top. Normal plantain leaves grow long and healthy. The thing is, bunchy top leaves also get dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. If you see this, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Today, check all your plants for these signs.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause plantain bunchy top?

Response: Bunchy top comes from a virus spread by tiny banana aphids. These aphids carry the virus from sick plants to healthy ones. There is no cure, so if you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This week, inspect your plants carefully for any signs of the disease.


Instruction: What's the difference between healthy plantain suckers and ones that might spread bunchy top?

Response: Healthy suckers look normal with no signs of disease. But suckers from a farm that had bunchy top can carry the virus inside even if they look fine. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Always plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Today, check your sucker source to make sure it's disease-free.


Instruction: How does bunchy top affect plantain compared to other diseases?

Response: Bunchy top is worse than other diseases because it stops the plant from growing properly and it will never produce a bunch. Other diseases might reduce yield but bunchy top means a complete loss. There is no cure, so chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This week, remove any infected plants immediately.


Instruction: Why is it important to space plantain plants properly compared to other crops?

Response: Plantain needs space for airflow to prevent diseases and for easy harvesting. Unlike maize or groundnut, plantain plants grow big and need room. Space them at 3 metres by 3 metres. This also makes it easier to spot diseases early. Today, measure your plant spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How is planting plantain different from planting maize?

Response: Maize grows quickly and can be planted anytime, but plantain needs to be planted at the start of the rainy season for best establishment. Also, plantain needs more space and more potassium fertilizer. Maize doesn't need as much space or fertilizer. Today, check your planting schedule and adjust for the rainy season.


Instruction: What's the difference between mulching plantain and mulching maize?

Response: Plantain needs heavy mulching to retain moisture and suppress weeds, more than maize. Maize can grow with less mulch. Mulch your plantain heavily around the plants. This week, gather materials like dry grass or leaves to mulch your plantain farm.


Instruction: How is desuckering plantain different from managing suckers in other crops?

Response: In plantain, you keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. In crops like cassava, you might keep more suckers. Too many suckers in plantain reduce the size of the bunch. Today, check your plantain mats and remove extra suckers.


Instruction: Why is potassium more important for plantain than for maize?

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Maize needs less potassium. Apply potassium-rich fertilizer to your plantain. This week, get a potassium-rich fertilizer if you don't have any.


Instruction: How does bunchy top compare to other plantain diseases in terms of treatment?

Response: Bunchy top has no cure, unlike other diseases that can be treated. If you see bunchy top symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Other diseases might respond to pesticides or cultural practices. Today, inspect your plants for any signs of bunchy top.


Instruction: What is the difference between fall armyworm damage and other maize pests?

Response: My friend, fall armyworm makes ragged holes in leaves that look like windowpanes. The big sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Other pests like stem borers leave different damage. Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Scout 10-20 plants per field to confirm.


Instruction: Which is better for fall armyworm: neem spray or chemical pesticides?

Response: Neem spray works well on young caterpillars, especially in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Chemicals like emamectin benzoate or spinetoram can be stronger but must be used carefully. First thing first, try neem spray mixed with water. If the problem is big, then consider chemicals but follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How does intercropping with beans compare to using chemicals for fall armyworm?

Response: Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. It's a natural way to protect your maize without chemicals. Chemicals can work fast but cost more and need careful handling. This week, plant some beans between your maize rows to see the difference.


Instruction: What is the difference between fall armyworm and stem borer damage?

Response: Fall armyworm makes ragged holes in leaves and leaves wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Stem borers make clean holes and tunnels inside the stem. First thing first, check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Scout 10-20 plants per field to confirm.


Instruction: Which is more effective: neem spray or fine sand mixed with wood ash for fall armyworm?

Response: Neem spray works well on young caterpillars, especially in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Fine sand mixed with wood ash can scratch and kill young caterpillars cheaply. First thing first, try the sand and ash mix. If the problem is big, then consider neem spray mixed with water.


Instruction: How does planting time affect fall armyworm infestation compared to other pests?

Response: Planting maize at the right time for your area can help avoid peak moth migration season. Fall armyworm spreads fast in warm weather. Other pests may not be as affected by planting time. First thing first, check your local planting calendar and plant on time.


Instruction: Which is better for fall armyworm: emamectin benzoate or spinetoram?

Response: Both emamectin benzoate and spinetoram can work well against fall armyworm. The thing is, they are both chemicals and must be used carefully. First thing first, try neem spray or fine sand mixed with wood ash. If the problem is big, then consider these chemicals but follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How does fall armyworm damage compare to leaf blight in maize?

Response: Fall armyworm makes ragged holes in leaves and leaves wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Leaf blight causes brown spots and patches on the leaves. First thing first, check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Scout 10-20 plants per field to confirm.


Instruction: Which is more cost-effective: neem spray or chemical pesticides for fall armyworm?

Response: Neem spray is usually more cost-effective and safer for smallholder farmers. Chemicals like emamectin benzoate or spinetoram can be stronger but cost more and need careful handling. First thing first, try neem spray mixed with water. If the problem is big, then consider chemicals but follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How does intercropping with beans compare to using fine sand mixed with wood ash for fall armyworm?

Response: Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. It's a natural way to protect your maize without chemicals. Fine sand mixed with wood ash can scratch and kill young caterpillars cheaply. First thing first, plant some beans between your maize rows and also try the sand and ash mix.


Instruction: My friend, my tomato leaves don get small brown spots with yellow around them. What I no go do?

Response: Ah, this one sound like early blight. First thing first, no go touch the leaves with your bare hands. Take a bag and pick all the infected leaves, tie the bag tight and burn them. Don't compost them, no. Also, stop wetting the leaves when you water — water only at the base of the plants. This week, go buy a copper-based fungicide and spray all your plants, even the healthy ones.


Instruction: I notice my tomato plants have grey-green patches that turn brown quickly. What should I avoid doing?

Response: This one is late blight, my friend. The thing is, this disease spreads very fast in wet weather. First, don't panic and don't wait — remove all infected leaves and plants now. Bag them and burn them, don't compost. Also, stop watering from above — always water at the base of the plants. This week, go buy mancozeb or chlorothalonil and spray all your plants every week during the rainy season.


Instruction: My tomato plants have brown spots and the leaves are dying. What should I not do?

Response: This one sound like blight. Don't ignore it — the disease will spread fast. Don't compost the infected leaves, no. Pick them and burn them. Also, don't water the leaves — water only at the base of the plants. This week, go buy a fungicide and spray all your plants, even the healthy ones.


Instruction: Wetin I no go do if my tomato leaves get brown spots with rings?

Response: This one be early blight. Don't touch the leaves with your bare hands, no. Take a bag and pick all the infected leaves, tie the bag tight and burn them. Don't compost them, no. Also, don't water the leaves — water only at the base of the plants. This week, go buy a copper-based fungicide and spray all your plants, even the healthy ones.


Instruction: My tomato plants have grey-green patches that turn brown. What should I avoid?

Response: This one is late blight. Don't wait — the disease spreads very fast. Don't compost the infected leaves, no. Pick them and burn them. Also, don't water the leaves — water only at the base of the plants. This week, go buy mancozeb or chlorothalonil and spray all your plants every week during the rainy season.