Instruction: I notice my tomato plants have brown spots and the leaves are dying. What should I not do?

Response: This one sound like blight. Don't ignore it — the disease will spread fast. Don't compost the infected leaves, no. Pick them and burn them. Also, don't water the leaves — water only at the base of the plants. This week, go buy a fungicide and spray all your plants, even the healthy ones.


Instruction: My tomato leaves don spoil. Wetin I no go do?

Response: This one sound like blight. Don't ignore it — the disease will spread fast. Don't compost the infected leaves, no. Pick them and burn them. Also, don't water the leaves — water only at the base of the plants. This week, go buy a fungicide and spray all your plants, even the healthy ones.


Instruction: I notice my tomato plants have brown spots and the leaves are dying. What should I avoid doing?

Response: This one sound like blight. Don't ignore it — the disease will spread fast. Don't compost the infected leaves, no. Pick them and burn them. Also, don't water the leaves — water only at the base of the plants. This week, go buy a fungicide and spray all your plants, even the healthy ones.


Instruction: My tomato plants have grey-green patches that turn brown. What should I not do?

Response: This one is late blight. Don't wait — the disease spreads very fast. Don't compost the infected leaves, no. Pick them and burn them. Also, don't water the leaves — water only at the base of the plants. This week, go buy mancozeb or chlorothalonil and spray all your plants every week during the rainy season.


Instruction: I notice my tomato plants have brown spots and the leaves are dying. What should I avoid?

Response: This one sound like blight. Don't ignore it — the disease will spread fast. Don't compost the infected leaves, no. Pick them and burn them. Also, don't water the leaves — water only at the base of the plants. This week, go buy a fungicide and spray all your plants, even the healthy ones.


Instruction: How can I prevent cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first: always use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. That's the most important rule. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. This week, check your plants for any signs of mosaic and remove infected ones immediately.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don show yellow and green spots. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, my friend, that sounds like cassava mosaic disease. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, you must remove and destroy those infected plants immediately to stop the spread. Also, don't replant stems from this farm next time — the virus stays in the stem.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant cassava to avoid diseases?

Response: The best way is to plant at the start of the rainy season. Use disease-free stems and space them 1 metre apart. This helps with weeding and gives plants room to grow strong. Also, plant resistant varieties like CMD-resistant ones. This week, check your planting material carefully before putting it in the ground.


Instruction: How can I make sure my cassava plants stay healthy?

Response: Healthy cassava starts with disease-free stems. Always get them from a reliable source. Plant resistant varieties and control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. This week, inspect your plants for any signs of disease and act quickly if you see anything unusual.


Instruction: Is there a way to stop cassava mosaic disease from spreading?

Response: Yes, my friend. The key is to remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Do not compost them. Also, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. And remember, never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. This week, check your farm for any signs of the disease.


Instruction: What should I do to prevent cassava mosaic in my farm?

Response: First, always use disease-free planting stems. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. Remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants showing signs of mosaic.


Instruction: How can I protect my cassava from mosaic disease?

Response: To protect your cassava, use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. Remove any infected plants immediately. This week, check your farm for any signs of mosaic and take action if you find any.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don curl and twist. How I go treat am?

Response: Ah, that sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The best treatment is prevention. Remove and destroy those infected plants immediately. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. And next time, use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties. This week, check your farm and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: What can I do to keep my cassava plants healthy and free from diseases?

Response: Healthy cassava starts with disease-free stems. Plant resistant varieties and control whiteflies. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. This week, inspect your plants for any signs of disease and act quickly if you see anything unusual.


Instruction: How can I stop cassava mosaic disease from affecting my farm?

Response: The best way is to use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. Remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. This week, check your farm for any signs of mosaic and take action if you find any.


Instruction: How is black pod disease different from healthy pods on my cocoa trees?

Response: My friend, black pod disease shows up as brown or black rotting patches on your cocoa pods. Healthy pods stay firm and their normal colour. The thing is, this disease spreads very fast in wet weather, so you must act quickly.


Instruction: Wetin be the difference between black pod and healthy cocoa pods?

Response: Healthy cocoa pods stay firm and look normal, but black pod disease makes them rot with brown or black patches. If you see this, you must remove and bury or burn the bad pods right away.


Instruction: What's the difference between pruning for black pod control and regular pruning?

Response: Regular pruning keeps your trees healthy, but pruning for black pod control is more about improving airflow. You need to cut more to let light and air into the canopy, especially during the rainy season.


Instruction: How does sanitation harvesting compare to normal harvesting?

Response: Normal harvesting is about picking ripe pods every two weeks. But sanitation harvesting is when you remove all diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood at once to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: What's the difference between Ridomil Gold and Nordox for black pod disease?

Response: Both are copper-based fungicides that help control black pod disease. You can use either one, but make sure to follow the label instructions carefully. Apply them every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season.


Instruction: How is mulching different from just leaving the ground bare in cocoa farming?

Response: Mulching with dead leaves keeps the soil moist and improves it over time. Leaving the ground bare means the soil dries out faster and loses nutrients. So, mulching is better for your cocoa trees.


Instruction: What's the difference between planting early and planting late in the rainy season for cocoa?

Response: Planting early gives your young trees time to grow strong before the heavy rains. Planting too late means they might not be ready, and they can get stressed or diseased. So, first thing first, plant early.


Instruction: How does black pod disease spread compared to other cocoa diseases?

Response: Black pod disease spreads extremely fast, especially in wet and humid conditions. One infected pod can infect ten others, so you must remove and dispose of bad pods immediately.


Instruction: What's the difference between burning infected pods and just leaving them on the ground?

Response: Burning or burying deep kills the disease, but leaving them on the ground spreads it to other pods. So, no need to panic, just remove and dispose of the bad pods properly.


Instruction: How does regular pruning help with black pod disease compared to not pruning at all?

Response: Pruning lets light and air into the canopy, which reduces the humidity that black pod disease loves. If you don't prune, the disease spreads faster. So, prune your trees regularly, especially during the rainy season.


Instruction: How can I stop my cassava catching mosaic disease without spending much money?

Response: My friend, first thing first: always use stems from healthy plants. That's the cheapest way to prevent mosaic. If you see plants with yellow and green patches, remove them fast before the whiteflies spread the virus. You can also make neem spray to control those whiteflies. Start today by checking your plants for any strange leaf patterns.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don turn yellow and green with spots, wetin dey cause am?

Response: That's cassava mosaic disease, my friend. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, it will make your tubers small and worthless. First thing you must do is remove and destroy those infected plants immediately. Then, check your other plants and remove any with the same symptoms. Start today by inspecting your farm and removing any sick plants.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to plant cassava and avoid disease?

Response: The cheapest way is to use stems from healthy plants only. Never use stems from a farm that had mosaic disease. Plant at the start of the rainy season and space them 1 metre apart for good growth. This way, you can easily spot and remove any sick plants early. Start today by selecting healthy stems for your next planting.


Instruction: How can I plant cassava without spending much on chemicals?

Response: You can prevent problems by using healthy stems and planting at the right time. Weed regularly for the first 3 months to keep your plants strong. If you see whiteflies, make neem spray to control them. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419 if you can find them. Start today by checking your stems for any signs of disease before planting.


Instruction: What can I do to protect my cassava from mosaic disease if I don't have much money?

Response: The best thing is to use disease-free stems. Always plant stems from healthy plants only. Remove any infected plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading. You can also use yellow sticky traps to catch whiteflies, which spread the disease. Start today by inspecting your plants and removing any with mosaic symptoms.


Instruction: My cassava plants have strange yellow and green patterns on the leaves, how I go treat am?

Response: That's mosaic disease, my friend. The virus is spread by whiteflies. First, remove and destroy those infected plants immediately. Then, check your other plants and remove any with the same symptoms. Use neem spray to control whiteflies. Start today by removing all sick plants from your farm.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant cassava without spending much on fertilizers?

Response: Cassava can grow in poor soil, but it likes potassium. If you can't buy fertilizer, focus on good planting practices. Plant at the start of the rainy season, space them 1 metre apart, and weed regularly for the first 3 months. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage. Start today by preparing your soil for planting.


Instruction: How can I stop whiteflies from attacking my cassava without spending much?

Response: You can make neem spray at home to control whiteflies. Also, use yellow sticky traps to catch them. Remove any infected plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading. Plant resistant varieties if you can find them. Start today by making neem spray and setting up sticky traps.


Instruction: What should I do if my cassava has mosaic disease and I don't have money for chemicals?

Response: First, remove and destroy all infected plants immediately. This will stop the virus from spreading to healthy plants. Then, check your other plants and remove any with the same symptoms. Use neem spray to control whiteflies, which spread the disease. Start today by removing all sick plants from your farm.


Instruction: How can I plant cassava and avoid disease without spending much money?

Response: The cheapest way is to use stems from healthy plants only. Plant at the start of the rainy season and space them 1 metre apart. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. If you see whiteflies, make neem spray to control them. Start today by selecting healthy stems for your next planting.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: My friend, the best time to plant plantain suckers is at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants plenty of water to establish well. If you haven't planted yet, check your local weather and get those suckers in the ground as soon as the rains begin.


Instruction: How often should I desucker my plantain plants?

Response: First thing first, keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat at any time. Do this every few months to keep your plants healthy and productive. If you haven't desuckered recently, go check your plants today and remove any extra suckers.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause plantain leaf go turn brown with small dots?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is banana bunchy top virus. The leaves turn brown with small dots and the plant stops growing properly. The thing is, there is no cure. Chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this immediately if you see these signs.


Instruction: When should I start mulching my plantain farm?

Response: You should mulch your plantain farm as soon as you plant the suckers. Mulching helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. If you haven't mulched yet, gather some dry grass or leaves and spread them around your plants this week.


Instruction: How long does it take for plantain to produce a bunch?

Response: Plantain usually takes about 9 to 12 months to produce a bunch, depending on the variety and growing conditions. If your plants are healthy and well-cared for, they should produce a bunch within this time. Keep an eye on your plants and ensure they have enough potassium.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are short and stiff. What is happening?

Response: This could be banana bunchy top virus. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top of the plant. There is no cure, so chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this immediately to prevent the virus from spreading.


Instruction: When is the best time to apply fertilizer to plantain?

Response: Apply potassium-rich fertilizer to your plantain plants regularly, especially during the growing season. Plantain is a heavy feeder, so ensure they get enough nutrients. If you haven't fertilized recently, get some potassium-rich fertilizer and apply it to your plants this week.


Instruction: How often should I check my plantain plants for pests?

Response: Check your plantain plants regularly, at least once a week, for any signs of pests or diseases. Early detection can save your farm. If you haven't checked your plants recently, go out there today and inspect them carefully.


Instruction: What is the spacing for planting plantain suckers?

Response: Space your plantain suckers at 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows for good airflow between plants and makes harvesting easier. If you're planting new suckers, measure the spacing carefully to give your plants room to grow.


Instruction: Can I move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top virus?

Response: No, my friend, never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top virus. The virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Always plant only certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. If you have any doubt, start fresh with clean material.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. The fungus loves wet weather. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. This will stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: How I go know when mango fruit ready to harvest?

Response: When the tip of the mango starts to change colour, that is your sign. Different varieties have different colours, but the tip is always the first to show. Be careful when picking — don't drop the fruits, they bruise easily.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. Why?

Response: This is blossom blight, caused by the same fungus that gives us anthracnose. It's very common in wet weather. You need to spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time, then every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I harvested my mangoes and they turned black in two days. What happened?

Response: The fungus was already inside the fruit. It grows fast when the fruit ripens. Next time, handle the fruits very carefully — any wound lets the fungus in. Pick them gently and store in a cool, dry place right away.


Instruction: How can I prevent anthracnose in my mango orchard?

Response: Prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits regularly — they carry the fungus spores. Avoid overhead irrigation, it keeps the leaves wet for too long. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: My mango fruits have dark sunken spots. What is this?

Response: This is anthracnose, my friend. The fungus enters the fruit and waits. When the fruit ripens, the spots grow fast. You need to spray your trees with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and every 10 days during the rainy season. Handle harvested fruits with care.


Instruction: When should I prune my mango trees?

Response: Always prune after harvest. This removes dead wood and improves air circulation. Better air flow means less disease. Don't forget to remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry fungal spores.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango fruit to spoil so fast?

Response: It's likely anthracnose. The fungus is already in the fruit when you pick it. When the fruit ripens, the fungus grows fast and turns the fruit black. Handle fruits carefully when harvesting — any wound lets the fungus in. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose?

Response: Start spraying mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Then spray every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly.


Instruction: My mango orchard is very wet. How can I stop disease?

Response: Wet conditions favour anthracnose. Prune your trees to improve air flow and avoid overhead irrigation. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry fungal spores. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and bushy with yellow leaves. What is wrong?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. The thing is, there is no cure once plants get this virus. You must remove and burn the infected plants immediately to stop it spreading. First thing first, check nearby plants and remove any with these symptoms too. Also, plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: How I go treat groundnut rosette disease?

Response: No need to panic, but I tell you, once a plant has groundnut rosette, it is finished. You must pull it out and burn it right away. To prevent it, plant early at the start of rains and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and keep your farm very clean of weeds.


Instruction: What should I do if my groundnut plants are stunted and yellow?

Response: This could be groundnut rosette disease. Remove and burn the affected plants immediately to stop the virus spreading. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide-treated seeds and keep your farm free of weeds.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and bunched. How do I treat this?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. There is no treatment for infected plants — you must remove and burn them immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and keep your farm well-weeded.


Instruction: What can I do to stop my groundnut plants from getting small and bushy?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. Remove and burn infected plants immediately. To prevent it, plant early at the start of rains. Use resistant varieties and control aphids with insecticide seed treatment. Also, keep your farm free of weeds.


Instruction: How I go save my groundnut from rosette disease?

Response: I tell you, once plants have rosette disease, they are finished. Remove and burn them immediately. To prevent it, plant early and use resistant varieties. Control aphids with insecticide-treated seeds and keep your farm clean of weeds.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent groundnut rosette disease?

Response: Plant early at the start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and keep your farm free of weeds. This will help protect your groundnut crop.


Instruction: How do I stop my groundnut plants from getting yellow and mottled?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. Remove and burn infected plants immediately. To prevent it, plant early and use resistant varieties. Control aphids with insecticide-treated seeds and keep your farm well-weeded. This will help protect your crop.


Instruction: What should I do if my groundnut plants are severely stunted?

Response: This could be groundnut rosette disease. Remove and burn the affected plants immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and keep your farm free of weeds.


Instruction: How I go protect my groundnut from rosette disease?

Response: Plant early at the start of rains and use resistant varieties. Control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and keep your farm clean of weeds. This will help protect your groundnut crop from rosette disease.


Instruction: What should I not do if I see strange spots on my rice leaves?

Response: My friend, first thing first, do not ignore those spots. Do not wait for the problem to get worse. Those spots could be rice blast. Do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — that only feeds the fungus. Spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why my rice plant don dey fall down?

Response: Wetin dey cause this could be neck blast, my friend. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk. Do not plant too close together — proper spacing reduces disease pressure. Do not wait, spray fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything.


Instruction: What should I avoid doing to prevent rice blast?

Response: Do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — excess nitrogen is like feeding the fungus directly. Do not let your paddy field dry out and flood alternately. Maintain proper water levels. Do not burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores that survive in crop residues. Do not plant susceptible varieties — choose blast-resistant ones like FARO 52, FARO 57, or NERICA series.


Instruction: Is it okay to use too much nitrogen fertilizer on my rice farm?

Response: No, no, no! Do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Excess nitrogen is like feeding the rice blast fungus directly. Use balanced NPK fertilizer, never more than the recommended nitrogen dose. This week, check your fertilizer application rates and adjust if necessary.


Instruction: What should I not do after harvesting my rice?

Response: Do not leave rice straw in the field. Burn it to destroy fungal spores that survive in crop residues. This will help prevent rice blast next season. Do it this week before the spores spread further.


Instruction: Why my rice plants always get sick?

Response: The thing is, you might be overcrowding your seedlings during transplanting. Do not plant too close together — proper spacing reduces disease pressure. Also, do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and maintain proper water levels in your paddy field.


Instruction: What should I not do if I see diamond-shaped spots on my rice leaves?

Response: Do not ignore those spots, my friend. Those are signs of rice blast. Do not wait, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Follow the label instructions carefully. This week, inspect your field and treat if necessary.


Instruction: Is it okay to let my paddy field dry out sometimes?

Response: No, no need to panic, but do not let your paddy field dry out and flood alternately. Maintain proper water levels. This helps prevent rice blast. Check your field's water levels this week and adjust if necessary.


Instruction: What should I not do to prevent neck blast in my rice?

Response: Do not wait until you see neck blast to act. Do not spray fungicide too late. Spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything. This week, check your rice plants and treat if they are at the boot stage.


Instruction: Why my rice yield always low?

Response: The thing is, you might be using too much nitrogen fertilizer. Do not over-apply nitrogen — excess nitrogen is like feeding the rice blast fungus directly. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or NERICA series. This week, check your fertilizer application rates and adjust if necessary.


Instruction: How can I stop fall armyworm without spending much money?

Response: My friend, first thing first, check your maize early morning or evening. Look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. For cheap control, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. You can also plant beans or soybean with your maize to reduce attack. Go check your maize field today.


Instruction: My maize don spoil for fall armyworm, wetin I go do?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings in the whorl. If you see them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is bad, you may need to use neem-based sprays. Check your maize now and start treatment.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to control fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: The cheapest way is to mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the maize whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. Also, intercrop your maize with beans or soybean to reduce fall armyworm attacks. Go to your field this week and apply this treatment.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm from destroying my maize?

Response: To prevent fall armyworm, plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Also, intercrop with beans or soybean. This reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Check your maize field regularly, especially early morning or evening, and treat any signs early. Start scouting your field today.


Instruction: What are the signs of fall armyworm in maize?

Response: Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes with light through them. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like frass (droppings) inside the whorl. Check your maize early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Go check your maize now.


Instruction: How can I control fall armyworm without using expensive chemicals?

Response: You can control fall armyworm cheaply by mixing fine sand with wood ash and putting it inside the maize whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. Also, neem-based sprays work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Start treating your maize this week.


Instruction: Why is fall armyworm so hard to control?

Response: Fall armyworm is hard to control because the caterpillars hide deep inside the maize whorl and feed mostly at night. Also, one female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs, and the pest spreads very fast in warm weather. To control it, scout early morning or evening and treat early. Go check your maize field today.


Instruction: What is the best time to check for fall armyworm in maize?

Response: The best time to check for fall armyworm is early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. Look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Start scouting your maize field this week.


Instruction: How can I reduce fall armyworm attack in my maize field?

Response: To reduce fall armyworm attack, intercrop your maize with beans or soybean. This significantly reduces fall armyworm infestation. Also, plant at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Start intercropping this season.


Instruction: What should I do if I see fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: If you see fall armyworm, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the maize whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is bad, use neem-based sprays. Start treating your maize today.


Instruction: How do I know if my rice has blast disease?

Response: My friend, check your leaves for diamond or spindle-shaped spots with grey centres and brown edges. If the base of your stalks are rotting and falling over, that is the worst kind called neck blast. The thing is, this disease loves cool nights and too much nitrogen fertilizer. First thing first, stop adding nitrogen and spray fungicide if you see these signs.


Instruction: My rice leaves don get small brown spots, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, my friend, those spots sound like the beginning of rice blast disease. The fungus loves too much nitrogen and wet conditions. You must spray fungicide like tricyclazole or propiconazole right away. Don't wait, the thing is, it can destroy your harvest if you don't act fast.


Instruction: What can I do to stop blast disease in my rice field?

Response: First thing first, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. Never over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — it feeds the fungus. Keep your field properly flooded and don't overcrowd your seedlings. After harvest, burn the rice straw to destroy fungal spores. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants you find.


Instruction: How do I treat neck blast in my rice?

Response: Neck blast is very serious, my friend. The thing is, by the time you see it, it's too late to save the infected stalks. But you can prevent it by spraying fungicide at the boot stage, before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything. Next time, also plant resistant varieties and avoid too much nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: Why is my rice falling over before harvest?

Response: This is neck blast disease, my friend. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall over. It's the most damaging form of rice blast. You must spray fungicide at the boot stage next time to prevent this. Also, plant resistant varieties and avoid too much nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: What should I do if I see small brown spots on my rice leaves?

Response: Those spots could be the start of blast disease. Don't panic, but act fast. Spray fungicide like isoprothiolane or propiconazole right away. Also, check your fertilizer — too much nitrogen makes the disease worse. This week, inspect your field and remove any infected plants you find.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast disease in my field?

Response: First thing first, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57. Maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — don't let it dry out and flood alternately. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. After harvest, burn the rice straw to destroy fungal spores. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants you find.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over, wetin I go do?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is neck blast disease. The thing is, by the time the plants fall over, it's too late to save them. But you can prevent it next time by spraying fungicide at the boot stage. Also, plant resistant varieties and avoid too much nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage rice blast disease?

Response: The best way is to prevent it, my friend. Plant blast-resistant varieties and maintain proper water levels in your paddy field. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. After harvest, burn the rice straw to destroy fungal spores. This week, inspect your field and remove any infected plants you find.


Instruction: How do I know if my rice has neck blast?

Response: Check the base of your stalks, my friend. If they are rotting and the plants are falling over, that is neck blast. It's the most damaging form of rice blast disease. The thing is, by the time you see it, it's too late to save the infected plants. But you can prevent it next time by spraying fungicide at the boot stage.


Instruction: What is the difference between black pod disease and healthy cocoa pods?

Response: My friend, black pod disease shows up as brown or black rotting patches on the pods. Healthy pods stay green or turn yellow when ripe. The thing is, infected pods spread the disease fast, so first thing first, remove and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground.


Instruction: How is black pod disease different from other cocoa diseases?

Response: Black pod disease spreads like fire in wet, humid conditions. Other diseases may not spread so fast. The key difference is that black pod turns pods black and rots them quickly. To stop it, prune your trees to let in air and sunlight. Do this today if you haven't already.


Instruction: Why is black pod disease worse than other cocoa problems?

Response: Black pod disease is worse because it can destroy up to one third of your harvest in a bad season. It spreads extremely fast, especially in wet conditions. The best thing is to harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks and remove any infected ones immediately.


Instruction: How is pruning for black pod disease different from regular pruning?

Response: Pruning to control black pod disease focuses on improving airflow and reducing humidity. Regular pruning is more about shaping the tree. For black pod, cut out crowded branches to let in light and air. Do this after each harvest to keep your farm healthy.


Instruction: What makes black pod disease spread so fast compared to other cocoa diseases?

Response: Black pod disease spreads fast because one infected pod can infect 10 others. It loves wet, humid conditions. To slow it down, remove and bury or burn infected pods deep. Also, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks.


Instruction: Why is it important to remove infected cocoa pods immediately?

Response: Removing infected pods immediately stops the disease from spreading. One bad pod can infect many others. Bury or burn them deep, never leave them on the ground. This is the first step to saving your farm.


Instruction: How is sanitation harvesting different from regular harvesting?

Response: Sanitation harvesting is when you remove diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood all at once. Regular harvesting is just picking ripe pods. Do sanitation harvesting to stop the spread of black pod disease. It's a quick but important task.


Instruction: Wetin be di difference between black pod disease and healthy cocoa pods?

Response: Black pod disease turn di pods brown or black and make dem rot. Healthy pods stay green or turn yellow when dem ripe. If you see any black or brown spots, remove di pods quick and bury dem deep or burn dem. No leave dem for ground.


Instruction: How is using fungicide for black pod disease different from using it for other diseases?

Response: For black pod, you use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. For other diseases, you might not need to spray so often. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Start spraying this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: Why is it better to harvest ripe cocoa pods every 2 weeks instead of waiting longer?

Response: Harvesting every 2 weeks stops overstay pods from getting infected and spreading black pod disease. Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection. So, check your farm today and pick all the ripe pods. Don't wait too long.


Instruction: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but turn black after 2 days. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. You must spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time next season and repeat every 10 days during rains. First thing first, remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground today.


Instruction: How can I stop my mango flowers from dying before setting fruit?

Response: Ah, this is blossom blight caused by anthracnose. The thing is, you need to spray fungicide at flowering stage. Use mancozeb or copper oxychloride and repeat every 10 days during rains. This week, start pruning your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango leaves get dark brown spots?

Response: This is anthracnose disease. The fungus loves wet weather. You must spray fungicide at flowering time and keep doing it every 10 days when it rains. Today, go and remove all dead leaves from the ground around your tree.


Instruction: My mango fruits have dark sunken marks. What should I do?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit. For next season, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. This week, harvest carefully and store fruits in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose in my orchard?

Response: First, prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during rains. Start pruning this week.


Instruction: What can I do to stop my mangoes from rotting after harvest?

Response: My friend, handle your fruits with extreme care. Bruises let the anthracnose fungus in. Harvest carefully, don't drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. This week, check your storage area and make sure it's dry.


Instruction: How do I know when to harvest my mangoes to avoid anthracnose?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip. That's the sign for most varieties. Harvest carefully, don't drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. This week, observe your fruits closely for that colour change.


Instruction: My mango tree has many dead branches. Can this cause anthracnose?

Response: Yes, dead wood reduces air circulation which anthracnose loves. Prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Do this pruning this week.


Instruction: How often should I spray fungicide for mango anthracnose?

Response: Spray at flowering time, then every 10 days during the rainy season. Use mancozeb or copper oxychloride and follow the label instructions carefully. This week, check your sprayer and make sure it's working properly.


Instruction: What should I do if my mango orchard has had anthracnose before?

Response: You must be extra careful. Spray fungicide at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Start cleaning the ground around your trees this week.


Instruction: What does a plantain plant with bunchy top look like?

Response: My friend, bunchy top makes the plantain leaves look very strange. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks and dots that turn yellow then brown. The plant stops growing properly. If you see this, chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus spreading.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and brown, what could be wrong?

Response: The thing is, yellow and brown leaves with dark green streaks could mean your plantain has bunchy top virus. This is very bad news because there is no cure. First thing first, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: Check the leaves — are they short, stiff, and crowded at the top? Do you see dark green streaks and dots turning yellow or brown? If yes, that's bunchy top. There is no cure, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus.


Instruction: My plantain plant is not growing well, the leaves look funny, what is happening?

Response: It sounds like your plantain might have bunchy top virus. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top with dark green streaks. This disease is very serious — there is no cure. The moment you see these signs, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaves turn brown with green streaks?

Response: That sounds like bunchy top virus, my friend. The virus makes leaves turn brown with green streaks and dots. It's very bad because there is no cure. The best thing to do is chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus spreading.


Instruction: What are the signs of bunchy top in plantain?

Response: Bunchy top makes plantain leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks and dots that turn yellow then brown. The plant stops growing properly. If you see these signs, chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: How can I identify bunchy top in my plantain farm?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top with dark green streaks and dots. These turn yellow then brown. The plant stops growing properly. If you see these signs, act fast — chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are stiff and crowded at the top, what does this mean?

Response: That's a bad sign, my friend. It could mean your plantain has bunchy top virus. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top with dark green streaks. There is no cure, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: What should I do if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: First thing first, don't panic. Bunchy top is very serious, but there is no cure. The moment you see the signs — short, stiff leaves with dark green streaks — chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain plant is infected with bunchy top?

Response: Check the leaves — are they short, stiff, and crowded at the top? Do you see dark green streaks and dots? If yes, that's bunchy top. There is no cure, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus spreading.


Instruction: How do I prevent black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first, you must keep your farm clean. Remove any infected pods immediately and bury them deep or burn them. Never leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees regularly to let in more light and air. This will reduce the wet, humid conditions that the disease loves. You can also apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Today, go around your farm and remove any diseased pods you see.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause cocoa pod for rot like dis?

Response: The thing is, black pod disease is caused by a fungus called Phytophthora palmivora and Phytophthora megakarya. It appears as brown or black rotting patches on the pods. It spreads very fast in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. One infected pod can infect up to 10 others. So, you must act quickly to stop it from spreading. Today, check your pods and remove any that look infected.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black patches on my cocoa pods?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Those black patches are signs of black pod disease. Remove the infected pods immediately and either bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Today, start by removing all the infected pods you can find.


Instruction: How often should I prune my cocoa trees to prevent black pod disease?

Response: You should prune your cocoa trees after each harvest. This allows more light and air into the canopy, which reduces the humidity that the black pod disease loves. Pruning also helps you remove any diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood in one go. This is called sanitation harvesting. Today, make a plan to prune your trees this week.


Instruction: Can I leave infected cocoa pods on the ground?

Response: No, you must never leave infected pods on the ground. They can spread the disease to other pods very quickly. Remove them immediately and either bury them deep or burn them. This will help stop the spread of the disease. Today, go around your farm and remove any infected pods you see.


Instruction: How do I know if my cocoa pods are infected with black pod disease?

Response: Black pod disease appears as brown or black rotting patches on the pods at any stage of development. If you see these patches, your pods are infected. You must remove them immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Today, inspect your pods carefully and remove any that show signs of infection.


Instruction: What is the best time to apply fungicide for black pod disease?

Response: The best time to apply fungicide is during the rainy season, every 2 to 3 weeks. Use a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your fungicide supply and make sure you have enough for the next application.


Instruction: How can I improve airflow in my cocoa farm to prevent black pod disease?

Response: Prune your trees regularly to let in more light and air. This reduces the humidity that the black pod disease loves. Also, remove any diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood in one go. This is called sanitation harvesting. Today, start pruning your trees to improve airflow.


Instruction: Why is it important to harvest ripe cocoa pods every 2 weeks?

Response: Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection for black pod disease. Harvesting ripe pods every 2 weeks helps prevent the disease from spreading. It also ensures you get the best quality beans. Today, check your pods and harvest any that are ripe.


Instruction: What should I do with diseased cocoa pods?

Response: You must remove diseased pods immediately and either bury them deep or burn them. Never leave them on the ground. This will help stop the spread of the disease. Today, go around your farm and remove any diseased pods you see.


Instruction: My friend, I want to know the difference between healthy groundnut plants and those with rosette disease?

Response: My friend, healthy groundnut plants grow tall with green leaves spreading out. But rosette-infected ones stay small, bushy, with yellow or mottled leaves bunched together. If you see this, pull out the plant immediately and burn it. No need to panic, but check the whole farm and remove any other sick plants.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause groundnut rosette? How I go know my farm don get am?

Response: Groundnut rosette caused by a deadly virus spread by tiny green aphids. You will know your farm has it when plants stay small, leaves turn yellow with dark spots. The thing is, there is no cure — you must remove and burn infected plants immediately. Check your farm today, especially young plants, and remove any that look sick.


Instruction: How do I choose between planting early or late for groundnut?

Response: First thing first, plant early at the very start of rains. This helps you escape the peak aphid populations that come later in the season. Late planting makes your crop more vulnerable to rosette disease. Go to your field this week and prepare the land for early planting.


Instruction: What is better for groundnut: well-drained soil or waterlogged soil?

Response: Well-drained sandy loam soil is best for groundnut. Waterlogged soil causes pod rot. Check your field today — if water pools after rain, consider planting on ridges or mounds to improve drainage.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette compare to other groundnut diseases in terms of danger?

Response: Groundnut rosette is one of the most deadly diseases. It can cause total crop failure, especially if it strikes early in the season. There is no cure, so prevention is key. Plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Check with your extension officer for local resistant varieties.


Instruction: What is the difference between groundnut and cowpea when it comes to rosette disease?

Response: Both crops can get rosette disease, but groundnut is more vulnerable. Cowpea can sometimes recover, but groundnut will never recover once infected. The best thing is to plant resistant groundnut varieties and control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting.


Instruction: How does the spacing of groundnut plants affect the crop?

Response: Spacing at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows helps groundnut plants grow well and close the canopy against weeds. Too close, and plants compete for nutrients. Too far, and weeds take over. Measure your spacing this week to ensure it's correct.


Instruction: What is the difference between fertilizing maize and groundnut?

Response: Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen, so you don't need much nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen gives you leaves but not pods. For maize, you need more nitrogen. The thing is, groundnut needs phosphorus and potassium more than nitrogen. Apply compost or organic matter to your groundnut field this week.


Instruction: How does early planting help with groundnut rosette disease?

Response: Early planting helps groundnut escape the peak aphid populations that come later in the season. Aphids spread the rosette virus, so planting early reduces the risk. Prepare your field this week for early planting at the start of rains.


Instruction: What is the difference between harvesting groundnut and maize?

Response: Harvest groundnut before heavy rains to avoid aflatoxin contamination in wet pods. Maize can be harvested after rains. For groundnut, dry the pods properly before storage — moisture above 9 percent causes aflatoxin. Check the weather forecast this week and plan your harvest accordingly.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: My friend, the best time to plant plantain suckers is at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants plenty of water to establish well. First thing first, check your local rainfall patterns and prepare your suckers for planting when the rains begin.


Instruction: When should I start desuckering my plantain plants?

Response: You should start desuckering as soon as you see new suckers growing. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. This helps the main plant grow strong and healthy. Check your plants this week and remove any extra suckers you see.


Instruction: How often should I apply potassium-rich fertilizer to my plantain?

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially for potassium. Apply potassium-rich fertilizer every 2 to 3 months during the growing season. This will keep your plants strong and productive. Check your fertilizer supply and plan your next application.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don turn brown and dry, wetin dey cause am?

Response: If your plantain leaves are turning brown and dry, it could be from lack of water or too much sun. Make sure to mulch heavily around the plants to retain moisture. Also, ensure proper spacing between plants for good airflow. Check your plants today and add more mulch if needed.


Instruction: When is the best time to mulch plantain plants?

Response: The best time to mulch plantain plants is right after planting and then regularly throughout the growing season. Mulching helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. Check your mulch supply and add more around your plants this week.


Instruction: How soon after planting should I expect to see new growth in plantain?

Response: You should see new growth in plantain within a few weeks after planting, especially if you planted at the start of the rainy season. If you don't see new growth, check the soil moisture and ensure the suckers are healthy. Inspect your plants this week for signs of growth.


Instruction: When should I harvest my plantain?

Response: Harvest your plantain when the fingers are fully grown but still green. The exact time depends on the variety and growing conditions. Check your plants regularly and harvest when the bunches are ready. Plan your harvest schedule based on the current growth stage.


Instruction: I don see any suckers on my plantain, when I go fit see am?

Response: If you don't see any suckers on your plantain, it might be too early or the plant might be stressed. Suckers usually appear a few months after planting. Check the plant's health and ensure it has enough water and nutrients. Inspect your plants this week for any signs of new growth.


Instruction: What is the ideal spacing for planting plantain suckers?

Response: The ideal spacing for planting plantain suckers is 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows for good airflow between plants and makes harvesting easier. Plan your planting layout accordingly and ensure proper spacing when you plant your next batch of suckers.


Instruction: When should I start preparing for the next plantain planting season?

Response: You should start preparing for the next plantain planting season a few months before the rainy season begins. This includes sourcing certified clean suckers and preparing your land. Start planning and sourcing your materials early to be ready when the rains come.


Instruction: How do I stop groundnut rosette from spreading in my field?

Response: My friend, groundnut rosette spreads through aphids. First thing first, remove any infected plants immediately. They will never recover. Next, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting. Also, weed your farm well — aphids love weeds and will jump from there to your groundnut. This week, check your plants carefully for yellowing or mottled leaves.


Instruction: My groundnut don dey look like bushy small plants with yellow leaves. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, that sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it's finished. You must remove it immediately to stop the disease spreading to other plants. Check your farm today and pull out any plants that look stunted with yellow or mottled leaves.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent groundnut rosette in my field next season?

Response: To prevent groundnut rosette, plant early at the very start of rains. This helps you escape the peak aphid populations that come later. Also, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Ask your extension officer for local resistant varieties too. This week, start selecting the best seeds for next season.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette spread from one plant to another?

Response: Groundnut rosette spreads through aphids, tiny insects that carry the virus from plant to plant. The disease is most dangerous early in the season. To stop it spreading, remove infected plants immediately. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting. This week, inspect your plants for any signs of the disease.


Instruction: What are the signs of groundnut rosette disease in my plants?

Response: Groundnut rosette makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. The leaves bunch up at the top. There is no cure — infected plants must be removed immediately. Check your plants today for these signs and pull out any infected ones to protect the rest.


Instruction: How can I stop the aphids that spread groundnut rosette?

Response: To stop aphids, use insecticide seed treatment before planting. Also, weed your farm well — aphids love weeds and will jump from there to your groundnut. Plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. This week, treat your seeds and clear any weeds around your field.


Instruction: Why is groundnut rosette so dangerous early in the season?

Response: Groundnut rosette is most dangerous early in the season because it can cause total crop failure. The aphids that spread it are more numerous later, so planting early helps you escape them. Also, remove any infected plants immediately to stop the disease spreading. Check your plants today for any signs of the disease.


Instruction: What should I do if I find a plant with groundnut rosette in my field?

Response: If you find a plant with groundnut rosette, pull it out immediately. There is no cure, and leaving it will spread the disease to other plants. The signs are stunted growth, yellow or mottled leaves, and a bushy appearance. Check your field today and remove any infected plants you find.


Instruction: How can I prevent groundnut rosette from destroying my entire crop?

Response: To prevent groundnut rosette from destroying your entire crop, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and weed your farm well. Remove any infected plants immediately. This week, inspect your plants and pull out any that show signs of the disease.


Instruction: What varieties of groundnut are resistant to rosette disease?

Response: Varieties like SAMNUT 22 and SAMNUT 23 are resistant to groundnut rosette. Also, the RG 1 series and local resistant varieties recommended by your extension officer. Plant these to protect your crop. This week, start selecting the best seeds for next season.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are turning yellow and green with strange patterns. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is cassava mosaic disease. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First thing first, remove those infected plants and destroy them. No need to panic, but act fast to stop it spreading.


Instruction: I just planted my cassava but the leaves are curling and deformed. What is happening?

Response: Oh no, this is cassava mosaic disease. The virus is attacking your plants. You must remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Check your other plants too and remove any that show the same symptoms.


Instruction: My cassava plants have mosaic disease. How I go treat am?

Response: I tell you, the best treatment is prevention. Remove and destroy the infected plants right now. Also, use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies spreading the virus. Next time, plant resistant varieties like TME 419.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava. When is the best time?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season. This gives your cassava the best chance to grow strong. Also, space your plants 1 metre apart for good yield and easy weeding.


Instruction: My cassava farm had mosaic disease last year. Can I replant the same stems?

Response: No, my friend, do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. The virus travels with the stem. Always use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. This is the number one rule for cassava farming.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cassava mosaic disease?

Response: First, always plant disease-free stems. Second, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Third, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. And always remove and destroy infected plants immediately.


Instruction: How far apart should I plant my cassava?

Response: Space your cassava plants 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives them room to grow well and makes weeding easier. Weed regularly for the first 3 months to keep your farm clean.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are healthy but the tubers are small. Why?

Response: Small tubers can happen if your plants had mosaic disease. Check your plants for yellow and green patterns or curling leaves. If you see these signs, remove and destroy the plants immediately.


Instruction: I want big cassava tubers. What should I do?

Response: Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Cassava can grow in poor soils but responds well to potassium fertilizer. Also, plant at the start of the rainy season for best growth.


Instruction: How long before I harvest my cassava?

Response: Harvest time depends on the variety and what you want to use the cassava for. Most varieties are ready between 9 to 18 months. Check your plants regularly and harvest when the tubers are big enough.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots. What is happening?

Response: My friend, those brown spots on your mango leaves are likely anthracnose disease. The fungus loves wet weather. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fallen debris from the ground. Then spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see black spots on my mango fruits. What is this?

Response: Ah, those black spots are anthracnose disease. The thing is, this fungus was already in your fruits before harvest. Handle fruits very carefully when picking and storing. Prune your tree to improve air flow and remove any infected branches. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. Why is this happening?

Response: This is blossom blight caused by anthracnose disease. The fungus attacks the flowers and kills them before fruits can form. Prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove fallen leaves and flowers. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: Mangoes spoil quickly after harvest. What is the problem?

Response: My friend, your mangoes likely had anthracnose disease already inside. The fungus spreads quickly as the fruit ripens. Handle fruits with care during harvest and storage. Do not drop them and store in a cool dry place immediately. Prune your tree to improve air circulation and spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis mango leaf get brown spot?

Response: Na anthracnose disease cause am. The fungus like wet weather. Remove all infected leaves and fallen debris from the ground. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango fruits get black spots after harvest. How I go treat am?

Response: Those black spots are anthracnose disease. The fungus was already in the fruits before harvest. Handle fruits very carefully when picking and storing. Prune your tree to improve air flow and remove any infected branches. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: Why my mango flowers no form fruit?

Response: This is blossom blight caused by anthracnose disease. The fungus attacks the flowers and kills them before fruits can form. Prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove fallen leaves and flowers. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: Mangoes spoil fast after I harvest. Why?

Response: My friend, your mangoes likely had anthracnose disease already inside. The fungus spreads quickly as the fruit ripens. Handle fruits with care during harvest and storage. Do not drop them and store in a cool dry place immediately. Prune your tree to improve air circulation and spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: I see dark spots on my mango leaves. What should I do?

Response: Those dark spots are anthracnose disease. Remove all infected leaves and fallen debris from the ground. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango fruits get black and rotten quickly. How I go prevent this?

Response: Those black spots are anthracnose disease. The fungus was already in the fruits before harvest. Handle fruits with care during harvest and storage. Do not drop them and store in a cool dry place immediately. Prune your tree to improve air circulation and spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: How can I stop tomato blight from spreading cheaply?

Response: My friend, first thing first — remove any leaves with dark spots or water-soaked patches. Put them in a bag and burn, don't compost. Then spray with copper-based fungicide every week during rain. Also, water only at the base of plants, not the leaves. This week, check your plants carefully and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: Tomato blight don spoil my farm, wetin I go do?

Response: No need to panic. First, remove all the bad leaves and burn them. Then spray with mancozeb or chlorothalonil every 7 days. Also, make sure your plants have good space between them for airflow. This week, check your plants every day and remove any new bad leaves.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to prevent tomato blight?

Response: The thing is, blight loves wet leaves. So, water only at the base of your plants, not on the leaves. Also, plant on raised beds so water drains away. And don't plant tomato in the same spot two years running — rotate with maize or cowpea. This week, check your plants and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: How can I save my tomato plants from blight without spending much?

Response: Remove any leaves with dark spots or water-soaked patches and burn them. Also, space your plants well for good airflow. Water only at the base of the plants. This week, check your plants and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: What are the signs of tomato blight and how to treat it cheaply?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halos on lower leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked patches that turn brown. Remove and burn infected leaves. Spray with copper-based fungicide every week during rain. This week, check your plants and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: My tomato leaves get wet spots then turn brown, what is this and how to stop it cheaply?

Response: That sounds like blight. Remove and burn the bad leaves. Spray with mancozeb or chlorothalonil every 7 days. Also, water only at the base of plants, not the leaves. This week, check your plants and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: How can I stop tomato blight from coming back next season without spending much?

Response: Don't plant tomato in the same spot next season. Rotate with maize or cowpea. Also, plant on raised beds for better drainage. This week, plan your next season's crop rotation.


Instruction: What is the best way to space tomato plants to avoid blight cheaply?

Response: Space your tomato plants 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This gives them good airflow to prevent blight. This week, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How can I water my tomatoes to avoid blight without spending much?

Response: Water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. This keeps the leaves dry and prevents blight. Also, plant on raised beds for better drainage. This week, check your watering method and adjust if needed.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent tomato blight if I don't have much money?

Response: Remove and burn any bad leaves. Spray with copper-based fungicide every week during rain. Also, water only at the base of plants. This week, check your plants and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: When should I plant cassava?

Response: My friend, plant cassava at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plant the best chance to grow strong. First thing first, check your local weather patterns and plant when the rains begin.


Instruction: How long before I can harvest my cassava?

Response: Harvest time depends on your variety and what you want to use the cassava for. Generally, you can harvest between 9 to 18 months. Check your variety's recommended harvest time and plan accordingly.


Instruction: Wetin be da best time to weed my cassava farm?

Response: Weed your cassava farm regularly for the first 3 months. After that, the cassava plants will grow big and shade out most weeds. Start weeding early to keep your farm clean.


Instruction: When should I apply fertilizer to my cassava?

Response: Cassava responds well to potassium fertilizer. Apply it at planting time and again 3 months later. This will help your cassava grow strong and produce good tubers.


Instruction: How often should I check my cassava plants for diseases?

Response: Check your cassava plants at least once a week for signs of disease. Look for yellow and green mosaic patterns on the leaves. If you see any infected plants, remove and destroy them immediately to stop the spread.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant cassava stems?

Response: Plant cassava stems at the start of the rainy season. This is when the soil is moist and the plants can establish well. Make sure to use disease-free stems from healthy plants.


Instruction: How long does it take for cassava mosaic to spread?

Response: Cassava mosaic spreads quickly through whiteflies. Once you see infected plants, act fast. Remove and destroy them immediately to prevent the disease from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: When should I mound the soil before planting cassava?

Response: Mound the soil before planting cassava to improve drainage and tuber size. Do this a few weeks before planting to give the soil time to settle. This simple step can make a big difference in your yield.


Instruction: How soon can I replant after removing infected cassava plants?

Response: Do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. The virus travels with the stem. Use disease-free stems from healthy plants for your new planting. This is the number one rule for preventing cassava mosaic.


Instruction: When should I start using neem-based sprays for whiteflies?

Response: Start using neem-based sprays as soon as you see whiteflies on your cassava plants. This will help control the pests and prevent the spread of cassava mosaic disease. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How much space should I leave between my plantain plants to save money on labour?

Response: My friend, plant your suckers 3 metres apart in all directions. Good spacing means less work weeding and easier harvesting later. First thing first: mark your planting holes before you start.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don turn brown and stiff, wetin dey cause am?

Response: I tell you, this sound like bunchy top virus. No cure for this one, my friend. Chop the plant down now and inject kerosene or paraquat into the stem to kill the corm underground. Do this today before it spreads!


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to keep my plantain farm healthy?

Response: Heavy mulching is your best friend. Use grass cuttings, dry leaves or even rice husks. This keeps moisture in and weeds out, saving you water and weeding time. Start mulching this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain sucker is infected with bunchy top virus?

Response: Look for dark green streaks turning yellow or brown along the veins. Leaves will be short and crowded at the top. The moment you see these signs, chop the plant down immediately. No need to panic, just act fast.


Instruction: Is it true I should only keep one sucker per plant to save money?

Response: Yes, that's called desuckering. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1-2 followers per mat. Too many suckers means competition for nutrients and lower yields. Check your mats this week and remove extra suckers.


Instruction: What fertilizer gives me most plantain for my money?

Response: Plantain loves potassium. Look for fertilizers with high potassium content. Apply carefully following the label instructions. Start with a good application at planting time for strong growth.


Instruction: My neighbour say I must buy expensive plantlets. Is this true?

Response: No, my friend. You can use suckers from your own farm if it's disease-free. But if you suspect bunchy top, never use suckers from there. Buy certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets from reliable sources.


Instruction: When should I plant my plantain suckers to save on irrigation costs?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season. This way, nature waters your plants for you. No need for expensive irrigation if you time it right. Check your local rainfall patterns and prepare your land now.


Instruction: How I go prevent bunchy top virus without spending much money?

Response: Prevention is simple: always plant clean suckers. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Also, keep your farm clean by removing any infected plants immediately. This costs you nothing but saves your crop.


Instruction: What is the best way to arrange my plantain farm to reduce labour costs?

Response: Space your plants 3 by 3 metres. This gives enough room for airflow and easy harvesting. Good spacing means less weeding and easier access for maintenance. Plan your layout carefully before planting.


Instruction: My rice leaves have white centres with brown edges. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. The fungus loves wet nights and too much nitrogen. First thing first, check your fertilizer use. Don't overfeed with nitrogen. You can spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide if you see more spots. Plant resistant varieties like FARO 57 next season.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis rice leaf for get dia-mond shape spot?

Response: Ah, that's rice blast disease. A fungus called Magnaporthe oryzae causes it. The thing is, it loves cool nights and too much water. Check your paddy field water levels. Don't let it dry and flood too much. Burn your rice straw after harvest to kill the fungus. Plant resistant varieties like the NERICA series next time.


Instruction: What causes the grey spots with brown edges on my rice leaves?

Response: That's rice blast disease, my friend. The fungus thrives in high humidity and cool nights. Too much nitrogen fertilizer makes it worse. Stop over-fertilizing and spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 next season.


Instruction: My rice stalks are falling over before harvest. What is happening?

Response: This is neck blast, the worst form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk. It's caused by the same fungus that makes leaf spots. Spray fungicide at boot stage next time. Plant resistant varieties like the NERICA series to prevent this.


Instruction: What disease causes spindle-shaped lesions on rice leaves?

Response: That's rice blast disease, caused by a fungus. It loves wet conditions and too much nitrogen. Check your water levels and fertilizer use. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide if you see more spots. Burn your rice straw after harvest to kill the fungus.


Instruction: Why are my rice leaves getting white centres with brown edges?

Response: That's rice blast disease, my friend. The fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. Too much nitrogen makes it worse. Stop over-fertilizing and spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign. Plant resistant varieties like FARO 57 next season.


Instruction: What is the most destructive rice disease in the world?

Response: Rice blast is the most destructive rice disease in the world. It's caused by a fungus and can reduce grain yield by 70 to 80 percent in severe years. Look for diamond or spindle-shaped lesions on leaves. Spray fungicide at the first sign and plant resistant varieties like the NERICA series.


Instruction: My rice leaves have brown edges with grey centres. What is this?

Response: That's rice blast disease, caused by a fungus. It thrives in cool nights and high humidity. Too much nitrogen makes it worse. Stop over-fertilizing and spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign. Burn your rice straw after harvest to kill the fungus.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice plant for fall down before harvest?

Response: Ah, that's neck blast, the worst form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk. It's caused by the same fungus that makes leaf spots. Spray fungicide at boot stage next time. Plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 to prevent this.


Instruction: What causes the diamond-shaped spots on my rice leaves?

Response: That's rice blast disease, my friend. The fungus loves wet conditions and too much nitrogen. Check your water levels and fertilizer use. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide if you see more spots. Burn your rice straw after harvest to kill the fungus. Plant resistant varieties like FARO 57 next season.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: My friend, check your cassava leaves. If you see yellow and green patches, curling, or twisted leaves, that is mosaic disease. The thing is, infected plants make small, deformed tubers. First thing first, check your plants today.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don turn yellow and green like mosaic. Wetin I go do?

Response: Ah, that is cassava mosaic disease. You must remove and destroy those plants immediately to stop the whiteflies from spreading it. Then, plant new stems from healthy plants only, I tell you.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cassava?

Response: Plant cassava at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants the best chance to establish well. You can start preparing your land this week.


Instruction: How far apart should I plant cassava?

Response: Space your cassava plants 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives them room to grow well and makes weeding easier. Mark your planting spots today.


Instruction: My cassava plants are small and the leaves are twisted. What is happening?

Response: That sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The virus spreads by whiteflies. First, remove and destroy the infected plants. Then, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Start treating your farm this week.


Instruction: How can I prevent cassava mosaic disease?

Response: Use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. This is the number one rule. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Check your stems before planting.


Instruction: When should I harvest my cassava?

Response: Harvest cassava at 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you want to use it for. Plan your harvest time now.


Instruction: What can I do to improve my cassava yield?

Response: Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Cassava responds well to potassium fertilizer. Start preparing your soil this week.


Instruction: How do I control whiteflies on my cassava?

Response: Use neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm. These will help control the whiteflies that spread cassava mosaic disease. Make your traps or spray your plants today.


Instruction: Can I plant cassava stems from a farm that had mosaic disease?

Response: No, do not do that. The virus travels with the stem. Always use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. Get new stems from a reliable source this week.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from attacking my plants?

Response: My friend, first thing first, you must check your farm early in the morning. Cowpea aphids are small black or brown insects that cluster on young shoots and pods. They suck sap and spread viruses. To control them, mix neem oil with soap and spray on the plants. You can also use garlic spray or pyrethrin insecticide. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the spread. Protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and parasitic wasps. They help control aphids. Today, check your farm and remove any infested parts you see.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and wilting. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this could be cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the plant, causing leaves to curl, turn yellow and wilt. These tiny black or brown insects cluster on young shoots and pods. They also produce sticky honeydew that encourages black sooty mould. To treat, spray neem oil mixed with soap or use garlic spray. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts. Check your farm today and start treatment if you see aphids.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cowpea aphids on my farm?

Response: To prevent cowpea aphids, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Avoid planting downwind or next to infested farms. Plant early to escape peak aphid populations in the dry season. Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, improving fertility for the next crop. This week, plan your intercropping and planting schedule to minimize aphid risk.


Instruction: How I go treat cowpea aphids if I don see natural enemies?

Response: If you don't see natural enemies like ladybird beetles or parasitic wasps, you can use neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. As a last resort, you can use pyrethrin-based insecticide. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread. Check your farm today and start treatment if you see aphids.


Instruction: Why my cowpea plants are not growing well?

Response: If your cowpea plants are not growing well, it could be because of cowpea aphids. These small black or brown insects suck sap from the plant, causing stunted growth, leaf curl, and wilting. They also spread viruses. To treat, spray neem oil mixed with soap or use garlic spray. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts. Check your farm today and start treatment if you see aphids.


Instruction: Can I use chemical to control cowpea aphids?

Response: Yes, you can use chemicals as a last resort. Imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray can be used, but follow the label instructions carefully. First, try natural methods like neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts. Check your farm today and start treatment if you see aphids.


Instruction: How I go know if my cowpea plants have aphids?

Response: Check for small shiny black or dark brown insects clustering on young shoots, flowers, and pods. They cause stunted growth, leaf curl, and yellowing. Look for sticky honeydew and black sooty mould on leaves. If you see these signs, start treatment with neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts. Check your farm today and start treatment if you see aphids.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cowpea to avoid aphids?

Response: Plant early to escape peak aphid populations which come in the dry season. Intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, improving fertility for the next crop. This week, plan your planting schedule to minimize aphid risk.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have black mould. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this could be black sooty mould caused by the sticky honeydew that cowpea aphids produce. These small black or brown insects suck sap from the plant and leave behind honeydew, which encourages the mould. To treat, spray neem oil mixed with soap or use garlic spray. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts. Check your farm today and start treatment if you see aphids.


Instruction: How can I improve soil fertility with cowpea?

Response: Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, improving fertility for the next crop planted on that land. Intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Avoid planting downwind or next to infested farms. Plant early to escape peak aphid populations in the dry season. This week, plan your intercropping and planting schedule to maximize soil fertility and minimize aphid risk.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey spots with brown edges. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. The fungus loves cool nights and wet conditions. First thing first, check your fertilizer use — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away, following the label instructions carefully. This week, also burn your rice straw after harvest to stop the fungus from spreading next season.


Instruction: How I go prevent neck blast in my rice farm?

Response: Neck blast attacks the rice stalk and can make it fall over. To prevent it, first plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. Next, spray fungicide at the boot stage, before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything! Also, use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. This week, check your field for the boot stage and prepare your fungicide spray.


Instruction: My rice plants are crowded. Is this bad for blast disease?

Response: Yes, my friend, overcrowding makes blast worse. The fungus spreads easily when plants are too close. This week, thin out your seedlings to give them proper space. Also, maintain good water levels — don't let the field dry out and flood alternately. This helps control the disease.


Instruction: What can I do to stop rice blast from coming back next season?

Response: The thing is, the fungus survives in rice straw. After harvest, burn the straw to destroy the spores. Also, plant resistant varieties like FARO 57. This week, start planning your next season's crop by choosing a resistant variety and making sure you have enough fungicide ready.


Instruction: I see diamond-shaped spots on my rice leaves. What is this?

Response: Those spots are a sign of rice blast disease. The fungus causes this and can destroy your crop if not treated. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away, following the label instructions carefully. Also, check your fertilizer use — too much nitrogen makes the disease worse. This week, apply the fungicide and adjust your fertilizer if needed.


Instruction: How I go know if my rice has neck blast?

Response: Neck blast attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk. You'll see lesions there, and the stalk may fall over. This is the most damaging form of blast. To prevent it, spray fungicide at the boot stage, before the panicle emerges. This week, check your field for the boot stage and prepare your spray.


Instruction: My rice field is always wet. Is this good or bad for blast disease?

Response: Too much wetness is bad, my friend. Rice blast loves high humidity and heavy dew. Maintain proper water levels — don't let the field dry out and flood alternately. This week, check your field's water levels and adjust as needed to keep the right balance.


Instruction: What fertilizer should I use to prevent rice blast?

Response: Use balanced NPK fertilizer, but never over-apply nitrogen. Too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. This week, check your fertilizer supply and make sure you have the right balance for your next application.


Instruction: I no dey use too much nitrogen but my rice still get blast. Why?

Response: Even with proper nitrogen use, blast can still happen if conditions are right. The fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. Plant resistant varieties like the NERICA series and spray fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. This week, check your field for any signs of the disease and prepare your spray.


Instruction: How I go treat rice blast if I no get fungicide?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. First, remove and burn any infected plants to stop the fungus from spreading. Next, maintain good water levels and proper spacing between plants. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. This week, start by removing and burning any infected plants you see.


Instruction: Greet the farmer and explain what FarmBot can help with

Response: Hello my friend! FarmBot is here to help you grow healthy rice. Ask me about diseases, pests, or good farming practices.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast disease in my field?

Response: First thing first, use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. The thing is, too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series.


Instruction: My rice leaves have brown spots, wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, my friend, that sounds like rice blast disease. The fungus loves cool nights and wet conditions. To stop it, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away.


Instruction: How can I protect my rice from neck blast?

Response: Neck blast attacks the base of the grain stalk. To prevent it, spray fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything, my friend!


Instruction: What should I do to keep my rice field healthy?

Response: Maintain proper water levels and do not let the field dry out and flood alternately. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Proper spacing during transplanting helps too.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over, how I go treat am?

Response: That sounds like neck blast, a serious form of rice blast disease. Spray fungicide at boot stage to prevent it. Next time, plant resistant varieties like FARO 57.


Instruction: What are the signs of rice blast disease?

Response: Look for diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions on leaves with a grey or white centre and brown or reddish edges. Neck blast causes the grain-bearing stalk to fall over.


Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from spreading in my farm?

Response: Do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting and maintain proper water levels. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. These steps will reduce disease pressure.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent rice blast disease in my paddy field?

Response: Plant blast-resistant varieties and use balanced NPK fertilizer. Avoid over-applying nitrogen. Also, spray fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey centres with brown edges, what is this?

Response: That is rice blast disease, caused by a fungus. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Also, plant resistant varieties next time.


Instruction: How can I prevent my mango fruits from rotting after harvest?

Response: My friend, the thing is mango anthracnose fungus is already inside the fruit before you even pick it. Handle your mangoes with care — no dropping or bruising them. Pick them gently and store in a cool dry place right away. This week, start by checking your mangoes carefully before harvest.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, those dark brown spots are from mango anthracnose disease. It's a fungus that loves wet weather. First thing first, remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Then, prune your tree to improve air flow. This will help keep the fungus away.


Instruction: How I go treat mango anthracnose for cheap?

Response: You can use mancozeb or copper oxychloride to spray your mango trees. Start at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remove any dead wood and fallen leaves to stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: What is the best way to prune mango trees to prevent disease?

Response: Prune your mango trees after every harvest. Remove dead wood and any branches that block air flow. This helps dry out the leaves faster after rain. Do this every year and you'll see fewer diseases. Start by checking your trees this week and remove any dead branches.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting, what do I do?

Response: That's blossom blight from mango anthracnose. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage to stop it. Repeat every 10 days during rain. Also, avoid overhead irrigation to keep leaves dry. Start by spraying your trees this week if you see any signs.


Instruction: How can I tell when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip of the mango. That's the sign for most varieties. Harvest carefully — don't drop the fruits. Handle them gently to avoid bruises. Check your mangoes this week and pick the ones that are ready.


Instruction: What is the best way to store mangoes after harvest?

Response: Store your mangoes in a cool dry place right after harvest. Handle them with care — no dropping or bruising. This will help prevent the anthracnose fungus from spreading. Start by checking your storage area this week and make sure it's clean and dry.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage, then every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. This will help control the fungus. Start by checking your spray schedule this week and adjust if needed.


Instruction: My mangoes turn black after 2 days in storage, why?

Response: That's mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit before you picked it. Handle your mangoes carefully — no dropping or bruising. Harvest gently and store in a cool dry place immediately. Check your mangoes this week and remove any with signs of disease.


Instruction: What can I do to improve air circulation in my mango orchard?

Response: Prune your mango trees after every harvest. Remove dead wood and any branches that block air flow. This helps dry out the leaves faster after rain. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Start by pruning your trees this week to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How do I know if my maize has fall armyworm?

Response: My friend, check your maize leaves for ragged holes that look like windowpanes. Also, look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That's the clearest sign. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Check 10-20 plants per field.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis holes for my maize leaves?

Response: That's fall armyworm, my friend. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. You'll also see wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. The thing is, they spread fast in warm weather.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant maize?

Response: First thing first, plant at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Space your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, one seed per hole. This gives your maize room to grow strong.


Instruction: How can I control fall armyworm without chemicals?

Response: Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl. The sand scratches and kills young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays also work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Try this today.


Instruction: When should I apply nitrogen fertilizer to my maize?

Response: Apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting and the other half when your maize reaches knee height. This helps your maize grow strong and healthy. Don't wait, do this this week.


Instruction: How do I know if my maize is ready for harvest?

Response: Harvest your maize promptly when it's dry to avoid weevils and post-harvest losses. Check the kernels — they should be hard and dry. Don't wait too long, harvest this week if it's ready.


Instruction: Can intercropping help with fall armyworm?

Response: Yes, my friend. Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. The different plants confuse the pests. Try this next season.


Instruction: What chemicals can I use for fall armyworm?

Response: You can use emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos. But I tell you, always follow the label dosage carefully. These chemicals are strong, so use them wisely.


Instruction: How often should I scout for fall armyworm?

Response: Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field at least once a week. This helps you catch the pests early.


Instruction: What should I do if I find fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: No need to panic. First, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl. For young caterpillars, neem-based sprays work well. If the infestation is bad, consider chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos. Follow the label instructions carefully. Act fast this week.


Instruction: My friend, how I go know say my maize don attack by fall armyworm?

Response: First thing first, check your maize early morning or evening. Look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That is the clearest sign. Do not wait until the damage is severe before you act. Today, go and scout your maize field.


Instruction: What should I not do if I see fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: Do not panic and spray any chemical you find. That can harm your maize or the environment. Do not ignore the problem either. The thing is, young caterpillars are easier to control. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl today.