Instruction: Is it true say if I no dey plant maize with beans, fall armyworm go attack my maize more?

Response: Yes, my friend, that is true. Fall armyworm attacks maize more when it is planted alone. Do not plant maize in a large block. Intercrop with beans or soybean this season to reduce the attack.


Instruction: Why I no suppose dey plant maize for peak moth migration season?

Response: Because that is when fall armyworm spreads very fast. Do not plant maize during the peak moth migration season in your area. Check with your extension officer for the best planting time. Today, plan your next maize planting.


Instruction: What is the wrong way to space maize plants?

Response: Do not plant maize too close together. That encourages fall armyworm and other pests. Space your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. One seed per hole is best. This week, measure your spacing.


Instruction: If I see fall armyworm, should I apply all my nitrogen fertilizer at once?

Response: No, my friend, do not apply all your nitrogen fertilizer at once. Apply half at planting and the other half when the maize reaches knee height. This helps the maize grow strong. Today, check your fertilizer application schedule.


Instruction: What should I not do with my maize when it is ready for harvest?

Response: Do not leave your maize in the field too long after it is dry. That attracts weevils and causes post-harvest losses. Harvest promptly when the maize is dry. This week, plan your harvest date.


Instruction: Is it true say I no suppose use any chemical for fall armyworm?

Response: No, my friend, that is not true. But do not use any chemical without reading the label. If you must use chemicals, use emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos. Always follow the label dosage carefully. Today, check the label on your chemical.


Instruction: What is the wrong time to scout for fall armyworm?

Response: Do not scout during the day. Fall armyworm hides deep inside the whorl and feeds mostly at night. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. This week, set a time to scout your maize field.


Instruction: If I see fall armyworm, should I wait for the damage to be severe before I act?

Response: No, my friend, do not wait. Young caterpillars are easier to control. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl. That scratches and kills the young caterpillars cheaply. Today, go and prepare your mixture.


Instruction: Greet the farmer and explain what FarmBot can help with

Response: Hello my friend! I'm FarmBot, your crop assistant. I can help you grow better groundnuts and other crops. Ask me about diseases, planting tips, or anything about your farm!


Instruction: What is groundnut rosette disease?

Response: Groundnut rosette is a very dangerous virus that makes your groundnut plants stay small, bushy, and yellow. It's spread by tiny insects called aphids. Once a plant gets it, it will never recover. You must remove it immediately to save the rest of your crop.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and the plants are stunted. What is the problem?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. The thing is, once the plant has it, there is no cure. You must pull out the infected plants right away to stop the disease from spreading. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: How can I prevent groundnut rosette disease?

Response: First thing first, plant early at the start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control aphids. Keep your farm very clean by weeding regularly.


Instruction: My groundnut farm is always affected by rosette disease. What can I do?

Response: I tell you, this disease is very stubborn. The best way is to plant early when rains start. Also, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Make sure to treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. And always keep your farm clean by weeding regularly.


Instruction: What is the best spacing for groundnut?

Response: The best spacing for groundnut is 15 cm within the rows and 30 cm between the rows. This helps the plants grow well and cover the soil to stop weeds. Too much nitrogen will give you leaves but not pods, so don't overdo it.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest groundnut?

Response: Harvest your groundnut before the heavy rains come. Wet pods can get aflatoxin, which is very dangerous. After harvesting, dry the pods properly until the moisture is below 9 percent. This keeps your groundnut safe for storage.


Instruction: How do I know when my groundnut is ready for harvest?

Response: Your groundnut is ready for harvest when the leaves turn yellow and start to dry. The pods will also start to harden. Make sure to harvest before the heavy rains come. After harvesting, dry the pods properly to avoid aflatoxin contamination.


Instruction: My groundnut pods are getting rotten in the soil. What is the problem?

Response: This is likely because your soil is waterlogged. Groundnut needs well-drained sandy loam soil. Waterlogged soil causes pod rot. Make sure your farm has good drainage to keep your groundnut healthy.


Instruction: How can I stop aphids from attacking my groundnut?

Response: Aphids spread the deadly groundnut rosette disease. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control aphids. Also, keep your farm very clean by weeding regularly. Weeds host aphids which then move to your groundnut plants.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are getting brown spots with rings. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. It starts on lower leaves with dark brown spots that have concentric rings. First thing first, remove and destroy those infected leaves by burning them — do not compost. Spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, water at the base of plants to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: My tomato plants have grey-green patches that turn brown. What is this?

Response: This is late blight, a very dangerous disease. It spreads fast in wet weather and can destroy your entire farm in days. Remove and burn infected parts immediately. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide every 7 days. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil fast. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: This could be blight or other diseases. Check your leaves for brown spots or grey-green patches. If you see them, remove and burn those parts. Spray with fungicide every week in rainy season. Also, harvest your tomatoes every 2-3 days to prevent pests and disease.


Instruction: How do I prevent tomato blight?

Response: Prevention is better than cure, my friend. First, rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea. Plant on raised beds for better drainage. Spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rainy season. Water at the base of plants to keep leaves dry. And stake your plants to improve airflow.


Instruction: What should I do if I see blight on my tomato plants?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Remove and burn the infected leaves or plants immediately. Do not compost them. Spray with fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, water at the base of plants to keep leaves dry. Plant on raised beds next time to reduce soil splash onto leaves.


Instruction: Why are my tomato plants dying so quickly?

Response: It could be blight, especially if you see brown spots or grey-green patches. These diseases spread fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected parts. Spray with fungicide every week in rainy season. Also, harvest regularly to prevent pests and disease.


Instruction: How can I stop my tomato plants from getting blight?

Response: My friend, prevention is key. Rotate your tomato plot with other crops. Plant on raised beds for better drainage. Spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rainy season. Water at the base of plants to keep leaves dry. And stake your plants to improve airflow.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have brown spots with yellow halos. What is this?

Response: This is early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn those infected leaves. Spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, water at the base of plants to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomato plants have blight?

Response: Check your leaves for dark brown spots with concentric rings and yellow halos — that's early blight. If you see grey-green patches that turn brown, that's late blight. Both are very dangerous. Remove and burn infected parts immediately. Spray with fungicide every week in rainy season.


Instruction: What can I do to save my tomato plants from blight?

Response: Act fast, my friend. Remove and burn infected leaves or plants immediately. Spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rainy season. Water at the base of plants to keep leaves dry. Plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage. And stake your plants to improve airflow.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: My friend, if your plantain leaves are short, stiff, and crowded at the top, with dark green streaks turning yellow then brown, it is bunchy top. The plant will never bear fruit — chop it down immediately.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause plantain leaves turn yellow and brown with green streaks?

Response: Ah, that is bunchy top virus, my brother. It is spread by tiny insects called banana aphids. There is no cure, so cut the plant down and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: First thing first, plant your suckers at the start of the rainy season. This gives them the best chance to establish well. Space them 3 metres apart for good airflow and easy harvesting.


Instruction: How do I stop my plantain from producing too many suckers?

Response: Desuckering is key, my friend. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. Remove the rest to give the plant strength to grow properly and bear fruit.


Instruction: Why is mulching important for plantain?

Response: Mulching keeps the soil moist and stops weeds from competing with your plantain. Use dry grass, leaves, or other organic material around the base of the plant.


Instruction: Can I treat bunchy top disease in plantain?

Response: No need to waste money, my friend. There is no cure for bunchy top. The moment you see symptoms, cut the plant down and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: How do I prevent bunchy top in my plantain farm?

Response: The thing is, bunchy top spreads through infected suckers and aphids. Plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Keep your farm clean and remove any infected plants immediately.


Instruction: What fertilizer is best for plantain?

Response: Plantain loves potassium. Use a fertilizer rich in potassium to give your plants the strength they need to grow and bear fruit. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How far apart should I space my plantain plants?

Response: Space your plantain plants 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows good airflow, which helps prevent diseases, and makes harvesting easier.


Instruction: Can I move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top?

Response: No, my brother. The virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Always plant only certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets.


Instruction: My tomatoes leaves don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like blight. If the spots are dark brown with rings and yellow halos, it's early blight. If they're grey-green turning brown and spreading fast, it's late blight. The thing is, both love wet weather. First thing first, remove and burn any infected leaves today. Do not compost them.


Instruction: I no dey use stake for my tomato plants, na so blight dey catch am. How I go prevent this?

Response: Ah, that's the problem! Staking keeps plants off the ground and improves airflow. Start staking your plants now at 30 cm height. Also, space them well - 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This helps air circulate and keeps leaves dry. Remember to water at the base, not overhead.


Instruction: My tomato plants get wet leaves and the leaves don turn brown with rings. What I go do now?

Response: This sounds like early blight. No need to panic, but act fast. Remove and burn all infected leaves today. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Also, avoid watering from above - water at the base of plants.


Instruction: I see grey spots on my tomato leaves, and they don dey spread fast. What is this?

Response: This could be late blight, very dangerous in wet weather. The grey spots turn brown and can destroy plants quickly. First thing first, remove and burn all infected parts today. Do not compost them. Then spray with chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide every week during rain. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My tomato farm get wet soil, and now the leaves don spoil. How I go save my farm?

Response: Wet soil is bad for tomatoes, especially with blight. First, remove and burn any infected leaves today. Then, plant your next tomato crop on raised beds or ridges to improve drainage. Also, rotate your crops - don't plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. Try maize or cowpea next time.


Instruction: I dey fear say my tomato plants go spoil. How I go prevent blight?

Response: Good thinking! Prevention is better. First, stake your plants at 30 cm height to keep them off the ground. Space them well for good airflow. Water at the base, not overhead. Also, spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My tomato leaves don turn brown with rings, and the plants don dey weak. What I go do?

Response: This sounds like early blight. First, remove and burn all infected leaves today. Do not compost them. Then, spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Also, avoid watering from above - water at the base of plants. Stake your plants to improve airflow.


Instruction: I see wet spots on my tomato leaves, and they don turn brown fast. Is this blight?

Response: Yes, this could be late blight. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove and burn all infected parts today. Do not compost them. Then, spray with chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide every week during rain. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, plant on raised beds next time for better drainage.


Instruction: My tomato plants don get wet leaves and the leaves don spoil. How I go treat this?

Response: This sounds like blight. First, remove and burn all infected leaves today. Do not compost them. Then, spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Also, avoid watering from above - water at the base of plants. Stake your plants to keep them off the ground.


Instruction: I fear say my tomato farm go spoil with blight. How I go prevent this?

Response: Good thinking! First, stake your plants at 30 cm height to keep them off the ground. Space them well for good airflow. Water at the base, not overhead. Also, spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Rotate your crops - don't plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row.


Instruction: What does black pod disease look like on cocoa pods?

Response: My friend, black pod disease shows up as brown or black rotting patches on your cocoa pods. The thing is, it can appear at any stage of development. First thing first, check your pods regularly and remove any with these dark spots.


Instruction: How can I tell if my cocoa pods have black pod disease?

Response: When your cocoa pods have black pod disease, you will see brown or black rotting patches. It can happen at any stage of growth. The important thing is to remove and bury or burn the infected pods immediately to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: What causes the black spots on my cocoa pods?

Response: The black spots on your cocoa pods are caused by a fungus called Phytophthora palmivora or Phytophthora megakarya. It spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. To stop it, remove and bury or burn the infected pods right away.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don get black spots, wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, those black spots on your cocoa pods are from a fungus called black pod disease. It spreads quickly in wet and humid weather. The best thing to do is remove and bury or burn the infected pods immediately.


Instruction: What are the signs of black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease shows up as brown or black rotting patches on your cocoa pods. It can happen at any stage of growth. The key is to remove and dispose of the infected pods properly to prevent the disease from spreading.


Instruction: How do I know if my cocoa has black pod disease?

Response: If your cocoa pods have brown or black rotting patches, that is black pod disease. It can appear at any stage of development. The important thing is to remove and bury or burn the infected pods to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: What does black pod disease look like on cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease on cocoa looks like brown or black rotting patches on the pods. It can happen at any stage of growth. The best thing to do is remove and dispose of the infected pods properly to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don dey fine, dem get black spots, wetin I go do?

Response: Ah, those black spots are from black pod disease. It spreads quickly in wet and humid weather. The best thing to do is remove and bury or burn the infected pods immediately to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: What are the symptoms of black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: The symptoms of black pod disease are brown or black rotting patches on your cocoa pods. It can happen at any stage of growth. The key is to remove and dispose of the infected pods properly to prevent the disease from spreading.


Instruction: How can I identify black pod disease on my cocoa trees?

Response: Black pod disease shows up as brown or black rotting patches on your cocoa pods. It can happen at any stage of growth. The important thing is to remove and bury or burn the infected pods immediately to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: My maize leaves have window-like holes and wet sawdust inside the whorl. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. First thing first, check your field early morning or evening when they come out. You can apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: I just saw tiny caterpillars in my maize whorls. What should I do now?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast! Those are fall armyworm caterpillars. They spread quickly. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorls to kill the young caterpillars. Do this today before they grow bigger.


Instruction: My maize is being eaten from inside the leaves. How do I stop this?

Response: This sounds like fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside and feed at night. Check your plants early morning or evening. Apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorls to kill the caterpillars. Do this as soon as possible.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: The thing is, fall armyworm spreads very fast. To prevent it, plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Also, intercrop maize with beans or soybean. This reduces fall armyworm attacks significantly.


Instruction: How I go treat fall armyworm for my maize?

Response: First, check your plants early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorls to kill young caterpillars. If the infestation is severe, you can use neem-based sprays or chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos. Always follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My maize leaves have ragged holes and wet sawdust inside the whorl. What is this and how do I treat it?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. To treat it, check your plants early morning or evening. Apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorls to kill the caterpillars. Do this as soon as you notice the signs.


Instruction: I see small caterpillars in my maize whorls. What do I do?

Response: Those are fall armyworm caterpillars. They spread quickly, so act fast! Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorls to kill the caterpillars. Do this today before they grow bigger.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause this ragged holes for my maize leaves?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Check your plants early morning or evening when they come out. Apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorls to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize has wet sawdust inside the whorl. Is this fall armyworm?

Response: Yes, that is fall armyworm. The wet sawdust is the caterpillar droppings. Check your plants early morning or evening. Apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorls to kill the caterpillars. Do this as soon as you notice the signs.


Instruction: How can I stop fall armyworm from destroying my maize?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads very fast. To stop it, plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Also, intercrop maize with beans or soybean. This reduces fall armyworm attacks significantly. Check your plants early morning or evening and apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorls to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: What is the worst thing you can do when you see black spots on your cocoa pods?

Response: My friend, the worst thing you can do is leave those infected pods on the ground. The thing is, one bad pod can infect ten others. First thing first, pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. This week, check your farm and remove any infected pods you see.


Instruction: I see brown spots on my cocoa pods. What should I not do?

Response: No need to panic, but don't ignore it. Don't wait to see what happens. The thing is, this is black pod disease, and it spreads fast. Don't leave the pods on the ground. Pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. This week, start pruning your trees to let in more light and air.


Instruction: My cocoa pods have black patches. What should I not do?

Response: Don't let those infected pods stay on your farm. The thing is, they can spread the disease to other pods. Pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. This week, check your farm and remove any infected pods you see.


Instruction: I don my cocoa farm and see some pods don turn black. How I go manage am?

Response: First thing first, no dey leave am for ground. The thing is, one bad pod fit infect ten others. Pick am up and bury deep or burn am. This week, start prune your trees to allow more light and air inside the farm.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. What should I not do?

Response: Don't leave those infected pods on the ground. The thing is, they can spread the disease to other pods. Pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. This week, start pruning your trees to let in more light and air.


Instruction: I see brown spots on my cocoa pods. What should I not do?

Response: Don't ignore it. The thing is, this is black pod disease, and it spreads fast. Don't leave the pods on the ground. Pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. This week, start pruning your trees to let in more light and air.


Instruction: My cocoa pods have black patches. What should I not do?

Response: Don't let those infected pods stay on your farm. The thing is, they can spread the disease to other pods. Pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. This week, check your farm and remove any infected pods you see.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. What should I not do?

Response: Don't leave those infected pods on the ground. The thing is, they can spread the disease to other pods. Pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. This week, start pruning your trees to let in more light and air.


Instruction: I see brown spots on my cocoa pods. What should I not do?

Response: Don't ignore it. The thing is, this is black pod disease, and it spreads fast. Don't leave the pods on the ground. Pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. This week, start pruning your trees to let in more light and air.


Instruction: My cocoa pods have black patches. What should I not do?

Response: Don't let those infected pods stay on your farm. The thing is, they can spread the disease to other pods. Pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. This week, check your farm and remove any infected pods you see.


Instruction: My friend, I see tiny black insects on my cowpea leaves. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap from your plants causing stunted growth and yellowing. First thing first, remove and destroy the heavily infested parts before they spread. Then, mix neem oil with soap and spray it on your crops.


Instruction: I don plant cowpea for my farm, but the leaves don dey turn yellow. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: That yellowing could be from cowpea aphids. Those tiny black insects suck plant sap and cause leaves to turn yellow. Check your plants for them. If you see them, remove the bad parts and spray neem oil mixed with soap. No need to panic, you can still save your crop.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from attacking my plants?

Response: My friend, the best way is to plant early before the dry season when aphids are many. Also, plant cowpea with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Avoid planting next to farms already infested. If you see aphids, remove the bad parts and spray neem oil with soap.


Instruction: What is the best way to treat cowpea aphids if I don't have chemicals?

Response: You can make a garlic spray or use neem oil mixed with soap. These are natural and work well. Also, remove and destroy the heavily infested parts of your plants. This stops the aphids from spreading. Ladybird beetles and hoverflies eat aphids, so protect them too.


Instruction: I see sticky stuff on my cowpea leaves. What is this and how do I fix it?

Response: That sticky stuff is honeydew from cowpea aphids. They suck sap and leave this sticky mess. It encourages black sooty mould which blocks sunlight. First, remove the bad parts of your plants. Then, spray neem oil mixed with soap to control the aphids.


Instruction: Can I use chemicals to control cowpea aphids? If yes, which ones?

Response: Yes, but only as a last resort. You can use imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray. Follow the label instructions carefully. But first, try natural methods like neem oil or garlic spray. Remove and destroy the heavily infested parts of your plants.


Instruction: How do I know if my cowpea plants have aphids?

Response: Look for tiny black or dark brown insects clustered on young shoots, flowers, and pods. They cause stunted growth, leaf curl, yellowing, and wilting. If you see them, remove the bad parts and spray neem oil mixed with soap. This stops them from spreading.


Instruction: I don see small black insects on my cowpea leaves. How I go treat am?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap and cause yellowing and wilting. First, remove the bad parts of your plants. Then, mix neem oil with soap and spray it on your crops. This will help control the aphids. If the problem is bad, you can use pyrethrin-based insecticide.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cowpea aphids from attacking my plants?

Response: Plant early before the dry season when aphids are many. Also, plant cowpea with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Avoid planting next to farms already infested. If you see aphids, remove the bad parts and spray neem oil with soap.


Instruction: I don see tiny black insects on my cowpea plants. The leaves don dey curl. Wetin I go do?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap and cause leaf curl. First, remove the bad parts of your plants. Then, mix neem oil with soap and spray it on your crops. This will help control the aphids. If the problem is bad, you can use pyrethrin-based insecticide.


Instruction: What is the difference between fall armyworm damage and damage from other pests?

Response: My friend, fall armyworm damage looks like ragged holes in leaves, almost like windowpanes with light through them. You'll also find wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Other pests don't leave that kind of mess. Check your maize early morning or evening — that's when the caterpillars come out to feed. Start scouting 10-20 plants per field today.


Instruction: How is fall armyworm different from maize stem borer?

Response: Fall armyworm hides deep inside the maize whorl and feeds at night, while stem borer bores into the actual stem. The armyworm leaves those ragged holes and sawdust-like droppings. Stem borer makes clean entry holes. Check your maize now — look for the droppings in the whorl.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis ragged holes for my maize leaves?

Response: Ah, my friend, that's likely fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. You'll also find wet sawdust-like droppings inside. Don't panic — mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl to kill the young caterpillars. Do this today.


Instruction: Why does fall armyworm spread so fast compared to other pests?

Response: The thing is, one female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs! Plus, they spread very fast in warm weather. Don't wait — scout your maize early morning or evening. Check 10-20 plants per field and look for those ragged holes and droppings. Act now.


Instruction: How does intercropping help with fall armyworm control?

Response: Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attacks. The beans confuse the moths and make it harder for them to lay eggs. Start planning your intercropping for the next season. In the meantime, scout your maize and apply sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl.


Instruction: What is the difference between neem spray and chemical sprays for fall armyworm?

Response: Neem spray works well on young caterpillars, especially in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Chemical sprays like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos are stronger but must be used carefully. Always follow the label instructions. First, scout your maize and see how bad the infestation is.


Instruction: How does planting time affect fall armyworm infestation?

Response: Planting at the right time for your area helps avoid peak moth migration season. Check your local calendar and plan accordingly. In the meantime, scout your maize early morning or evening. Look for those ragged holes and droppings in the whorl.


Instruction: Why is it important to harvest maize promptly?

Response: Harvesting promptly when dry avoids weevils and post-harvest losses in storage. Don't wait too long — check your maize and plan your harvest. Also, keep scouting for fall armyworm and apply sand mixed with wood ash if you find any.


Instruction: How does spacing affect maize growth and pest control?

Response: Proper spacing at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows helps maize grow well and makes it easier to spot pests like fall armyworm. Check your spacing and adjust for the next season. Right now, scout your maize and look for those ragged holes and droppings.


Instruction: What is the difference between applying fertilizer at planting and at knee height?

Response: Applying half the nitrogen fertilizer at planting and the other half at knee height ensures your maize gets the nutrients it needs at the right time. Don't forget to scout for fall armyworm while you're at it. Look for those ragged holes and droppings in the whorl.


Instruction: How does cassava mosaic spread?

Response: My friend, cassava mosaic spreads through whiteflies that carry the virus from plant to plant. The thing is, the virus can also travel with infected planting stems, so you must use stems from healthy plants only. First thing first, check your plants for yellow-green patches and curled leaves. If you see these, remove and destroy the plant immediately to stop the spread.


Instruction: Why my cassava leaf don get green color again?

Response: Ah, this one might be cassava mosaic disease. The leaves get yellow and green patches, and they curl up. The virus spreads by whiteflies, so you must act fast. Remove the bad plants now and spray neem or use yellow sticky traps to catch the whiteflies. Also, next time plant resistant varieties like TME 419.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cassava mosaic from spreading to my farm?

Response: To stop cassava mosaic from spreading, always use disease-free planting stems. Never take stems from a farm that had mosaic before. Also, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. And my friend, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. Check your plants regularly and remove any infected ones immediately.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: Look for yellow and green patches on the leaves, like a mosaic pattern. The leaves may also curl and look distorted. If you see these signs, the plant has mosaic disease. Do not wait, remove and destroy the plant right away to stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: Can cassava mosaic spread through the soil?

Response: No, cassava mosaic does not spread through the soil. It spreads by whiteflies that carry the virus from plant to plant. The virus can also travel with infected planting stems. So, always use stems from healthy plants and control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps.


Instruction: What should I do if I find mosaic disease in my cassava farm?

Response: First, do not panic. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. This will stop the whiteflies from spreading the virus to other plants. Also, use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572.


Instruction: Is it safe to replant cassava stems from a farm that had mosaic disease?

Response: No, my friend, it is not safe. The virus can travel with the stems, so you must not use them. Always use stems from healthy plants. And remember, plant resistant varieties to protect your farm.


Instruction: How can I control whiteflies that spread cassava mosaic?

Response: You can control whiteflies with neem-based sprays. Another good method is to use yellow sticky traps around your farm. These traps catch the whiteflies before they can spread the virus. Also, remove and destroy any infected plants immediately to break the cycle.


Instruction: What are the signs of cassava mosaic disease?

Response: The signs are yellow and green patches on the leaves, like a mosaic pattern. The leaves may also curl and look distorted. If you see these signs, the plant has mosaic disease. Remove and destroy the plant right away to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: How can I prevent cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: To prevent cassava mosaic, always use disease-free planting stems. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. And my friend, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Check your plants regularly and remove any infected ones immediately.


Instruction: How does tomato blight spread so fast?

Response: My friend, tomato blight spreads like fire in wet, cool weather. The spores travel on wind and rain, infecting plants quickly. First thing first, remove any infected leaves right away and burn them. Don't compost them, I tell you.


Instruction: What causes tomato blight to spread quickly?

Response: Tomato blight spreads fast when it's wet and humid. The fungus loves water, so when it rains a lot, the disease jumps from plant to plant. To stop it, space your plants well for airflow and water at the base, not on the leaves.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil fast, wetin dey cause am?

Response: If your tomatoes spoil fast, it could be blight. Look for brown spots with rings or water-soaked patches. The thing is, blight spreads fast in wet weather. Remove bad leaves and burn them, don't compost. Also, spray fungicide every week in the rainy season.


Instruction: How can I prevent tomato blight from spreading?

Response: To stop blight from spreading, keep your plants dry. Water at the base, not on the leaves. Remove and burn any infected leaves right away. Also, rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season.


Instruction: What are the signs that tomato blight is spreading?

Response: Blight starts with dark brown spots with rings on older leaves for early blight. Late blight shows water-soaked patches that turn brown. If you see these, act fast. Remove and burn infected leaves to stop it spreading.


Instruction: How does wet weather affect tomato blight spread?

Response: Wet weather makes blight spread like wildfire. The fungus loves moisture and will jump from plant to plant in no time. To fight it, spray fungicide every week during rain and keep your plants dry.


Instruction: My tomato leaves get brown spots, how I go stop am spread?

Response: Those brown spots could be early blight. To stop it spreading, remove the bad leaves and burn them. Don't compost them. Also, space your plants well for airflow and water at the base, not on the leaves.


Instruction: What should I do if blight is spreading in my tomato farm?

Response: If blight is spreading, act fast. Remove and burn any infected leaves right away. Spray fungicide every week during the rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage.


Instruction: How can I tell if tomato blight is spreading to other plants?

Response: Check your plants daily. If you see brown spots with rings or water-soaked patches, blight is spreading. Remove and burn those leaves fast to stop it. Also, spray fungicide every week in wet weather.


Instruction: What practices help stop tomato blight from spreading?

Response: To stop blight spreading, keep your plants dry and well-spaced. Water at the base, not on the leaves. Remove and burn any infected leaves right away. Also, rotate your tomato plot with another crop next season.


Instruction: How can I tell if my rice has blast disease?

Response: My friend, check your leaves for diamond or spindle-shaped spots with grey centres and brown edges. That's leaf blast. If the grain stalks are falling over with blackened bases, that's neck blast. The thing is, neck blast is the most damaging form. First thing first, go check your fields today.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange spots. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: The spots you're seeing could be rice blast, a very serious fungus disease. The spots have grey centres with brown edges. If you see this, don't wait — act fast. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away, following the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What should I do if I see my rice stalks falling over?

Response: That's neck blast, and it's very dangerous. The fungus attacks the base of the grain stalk. To prevent this, spray fungicide at the boot stage, before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything. Also, never over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — it feeds the fungus.


Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from spreading in my field?

Response: First, maintain proper water levels — don't let the field dry out and flood alternately. Also, don't overcrowd seedlings during transplanting. Proper spacing reduces disease pressure. After harvest, burn the rice straw to destroy fungal spores. Start these practices today.


Instruction: Which rice varieties are resistant to blast disease?

Response: Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or the NERICA series. These are good options in Nigeria and West Africa. If you're not sure, ask at your local agricultural office. Start planning your next planting today.


Instruction: Can too much nitrogen fertilizer cause rice blast?

Response: Yes, my friend. Too much nitrogen is like feeding the fungus directly. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never exceed the recommended nitrogen dose. Check your fertilizer bags for the right amounts. Adjust your fertilizer use today.


Instruction: What is the best time to spray fungicide for neck blast?

Response: Spray at the boot stage, before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything. If you miss this stage, the damage will be done. Check your fields now to see if they're at the right stage. Spray as soon as possible.


Instruction: How do I know if my rice field has the right water levels?

Response: The water should be 2-5 cm deep and consistent. Don't let the field dry out and flood alternately. Check your fields today and adjust the water levels if needed. Proper water management is key.


Instruction: What should I do with rice straw after harvest?

Response: Burn the rice straw after harvest. This destroys fungal spores that survive in crop residues. Don't leave the straw in the field. Start planning your post-harvest cleanup today.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast in my field?

Response: First, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. Maintain proper water levels and don't overcrowd seedlings. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. Start these practices today to protect your crop.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. The spots are likely diamond-shaped with grey centers and brown edges. The thing is, this fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. First thing first, stop adding more nitrogen to your field. You must spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide immediately. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over. What is the problem?

Response: This is neck blast, my friend. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to break. It is very serious and can destroy your harvest. You must act fast. Burn the affected plants and spray propiconazole fungicide right away. Follow the label instructions carefully. Next time, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA.


Instruction: Rice blast don attack my farm. How I go treat am?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Spray tricyclazole or isoprothiolane fungicide immediately. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen makes the disease worse. Reduce it next time. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 for better protection.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey spots with brown edges. Is this serious?

Response: Yes, this is rice blast and it is very serious. The fungus can destroy your harvest if not treated quickly. Spray propiconazole fungicide right away. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, make sure your field has proper water levels and good spacing between plants. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: I see strange spots on my rice leaves. What should I do?

Response: This is likely rice blast, a very dangerous disease. You must act fast. Spray tricyclazole or isoprothiolane fungicide immediately. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen levels. Too much nitrogen makes the disease worse. Next time, plant blast-resistant varieties like NERICA for better protection.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over. What is happening?

Response: This is neck blast, my friend. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to break. It is very serious and can destroy your harvest. You must act fast. Burn the affected plants and spray propiconazole fungicide right away. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, maintain proper water levels in your field.


Instruction: Rice blast don attack my farm. Wetin I go do?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Spray tricyclazole or isoprothiolane fungicide immediately. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen makes the disease worse. Reduce it next time. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 for better protection.


Instruction: My rice leaves have diamond-shaped spots. Is this bad?

Response: Yes, this is rice blast and it is very bad. The fungus can destroy your harvest if not treated quickly. Spray propiconazole fungicide right away. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, make sure your field has proper water levels and good spacing between plants. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: I see grey spots on my rice leaves. What is this?

Response: This is rice blast, a very dangerous disease. You must act fast. Spray tricyclazole or isoprothiolane fungicide immediately. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen levels. Too much nitrogen makes the disease worse. Next time, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 for better protection.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over. How I go save am?

Response: This is neck blast, my friend. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to break. It is very serious and can destroy your harvest. You must act fast. Burn the affected plants and spray propiconazole fungicide right away. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, maintain proper water levels in your field.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomato plant has blight?

Response: My friend, check your lower leaves first. Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo. Late blight looks like water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. If you see these, act quickly — remove and burn infected leaves right away.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: The thing is, if your tomatoes are spoiling fast, it might be blight. Check for dark spots or wet-looking patches on leaves. Blight spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove and burn any bad leaves. Then spray fungicide every week during rain.


Instruction: How can I stop blight from spreading in my tomato farm?

Response: To stop blight, keep your plants dry and healthy. Water only at the base, never on the leaves. Remove and burn any infected leaves you see. Spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every 7 days in rainy season. Also, rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season.


Instruction: What should I do if I see brown spots on my tomato leaves?

Response: Those brown spots might be early blight. Check if they have rings or yellow halos. If yes, pick those leaves and burn them immediately. Do not compost them. Spray fungicide every week in rainy season to prevent more spots.


Instruction: How do I space my tomato plants to prevent disease?

Response: Space your tomatoes at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This gives good airflow and stops diseases from spreading easily. Also, stake or cage plants at 30 cm to keep fruits off the ground. Harvest every 2-3 days to keep plants healthy.


Instruction: Why is my tomato plant wilting and dying so fast?

Response: If your plant is wilting fast, it might be late blight. This disease turns leaves grey-green then brown in wet weather. It can kill plants in days. Remove and burn infected parts now. Spray fungicide every week in rain and plant on raised beds next time.


Instruction: How often should I spray fungicide on my tomato plants?

Response: Spray fungicide every 7 days during rainy season to prevent blight. Use mancozeb, chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remove and burn any infected leaves you see to stop the disease.


Instruction: Can I compost tomato leaves with brown spots?

Response: No, my friend, do not compost leaves with brown spots. Those spots could be blight, and composting will spread the disease. Instead, bag and burn them. This stops the disease from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: How do I water my tomato plants to avoid disease?

Response: Water only at the base of your tomato plants. Never wet the leaves, as this helps blight spread. Also, plant on raised beds or ridges to improve drainage. Keep foliage dry to stop diseases from starting.


Instruction: What should I plant after tomatoes to stop disease?

Response: After tomatoes, plant maize or cowpea. This is called crop rotation and it stops diseases like blight from coming back. Never plant tomatoes in the same plot two seasons in a row. This simple step keeps your farm healthy.


Instruction: My friend, how I go know if my cassava get mosaic disease?

Response: Check your leaves, my friend. If you see yellow and green patches like a mosaic, or if the leaves curl up, that's mosaic disease. Don't wait, take action today! Remove those plants and destroy them so the whiteflies don't spread it further.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to stop cassava mosaic from spreading?

Response: First thing first, use healthy stems from disease-free plants. That's the number one rule! If you see infected plants, remove and destroy them immediately. Use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps to control whiteflies. Start today, don't wait!


Instruction: Why my cassava leaves don dey turn yellow and green like mosaic?

Response: That's cassava mosaic disease, my friend. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, once you see those mosaic patterns, you must act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plants right away to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: How can I plant cassava to get the best yield without spending much?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season for good establishment. Space your plants 1 metre by 1 metre for easy weeding and better yield. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Start preparing your farm this week!


Instruction: What is the best way to plant cassava on poor soil?

Response: Cassava can grow on poor soil, but it will do better with some potassium fertilizer. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Plant at the start of the rainy season and space your plants 1 metre by 1 metre. Prepare your soil this week!


Instruction: How I go prevent mosaic disease for my cassava farm?

Response: Use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants only. That's the most important thing! Remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Start checking your plants today!


Instruction: What should I do if I find mosaic disease in my cassava farm?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Use disease-free stems next time. Start removing infected plants today!


Instruction: How can I stop whiteflies from spreading cassava mosaic?

Response: Use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps around your farm to control whiteflies. Also, remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Start controlling whiteflies this week to protect your cassava.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cassava?

Response: Plant cassava at the start of the rainy season for best establishment. This gives your plants enough water to grow strong. Start preparing your farm this week for planting!


Instruction: How can I improve my cassava yield without spending much?

Response: Space your plants 1 metre by 1 metre for good yield and ease of weeding. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. Start preparing your farm this week!


Instruction: What is the difference between cassava mosaic disease and healthy cassava plants?

Response: My friend, healthy cassava leaves are green and smooth. But with mosaic disease, you will see yellow and green patterns, curling, and twisted leaves. The thing is, this disease makes the tubers small and deformed. First thing first, check your plants now and remove any with these signs.


Instruction: How does planting time affect cassava growth compared to other crops?

Response: Cassava is different from other crops. Plant it at the start of the rainy season so it can grow well. Unlike maize or cowpea, cassava needs that early rain to establish strong roots. This week, check your rain calendar and prepare your field.


Instruction: Why is spacing important for cassava compared to other root crops?

Response: Cassava needs space to grow big tubers. Plant them 1 metre by 1 metre apart. This helps with weeding and gives each plant room to grow. Unlike yam or sweet potato, cassava needs this space to yield well. Measure your field and mark the planting spots today.


Instruction: How does cassava mosaic disease spread compared to other viral diseases?

Response: Cassava mosaic spreads through whiteflies and infected stems. Unlike other diseases, it travels with the stem, so never replant from a farm that had mosaic. Use disease-free stems and control whiteflies with neem spray. Check your stems before planting.


Instruction: Na wetin dey cause cassava mosaic disease?

Response: The thing wey cause cassava mosaic na small fly called whitefly. Dem dey carry the virus from one plant to another. If you see yellow and green patterns on leaves, na mosaic. Remove the affected plants quick-quick so the whiteflies no go spread am. Spray neem or use yellow sticky traps.


Instruction: How does cassava compare to maize in terms of weeding needs?

Response: Cassava is different from maize. You must weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, the leaves will shade out most weeds. Maize needs constant weeding, but cassava is easier after the first few months. Weed your cassava field this week.


Instruction: Why is it important to use disease-free stems for cassava compared to other crops?

Response: Cassava mosaic virus travels with the stem. If you plant infected stems, the whole farm will get the disease. Unlike maize or cowpea, cassava must be planted with healthy stems. Check your stems and remove any with signs of disease.


Instruction: How does cassava compare to plantain in terms of planting time?

Response: Plantain needs to be planted at a specific time to fruit well, but cassava is more flexible. Plant cassava at the start of the rainy season for best growth. Unlike plantain, cassava can tolerate poor soils. Prepare your field and plant this week.


Instruction: How does cassava mosaic disease affect the tubers compared to the leaves?

Response: The leaves show yellow and green patterns, but the tubers are the real problem. Severely affected plants produce small, deformed tubers worth nothing at market. Unlike the leaves, the tubers cannot recover. Remove infected plants immediately.


Instruction: How does cassava compare to groundnut in terms of fertilizer needs?

Response: Groundnut needs nitrogen, but cassava responds well to potassium. Unlike groundnut, cassava can tolerate poor soils but will yield more with potassium fertilizer. Apply potassium if you have it, and your cassava will grow better. Check your fertilizer supplies.


Instruction: How can I protect my mango trees from anthracnose without spending much money?

Response: My friend, first thing first, remove all dead wood and fallen leaves from your mango trees. This helps stop the fungus from spreading. Also, avoid overhead irrigation to keep leaves dry. If you can, prune your trees to improve air circulation. This costs little but works well. This week, start cleaning up under your trees.


Instruction: My mango fruits are getting dark spots before harvest. What can I do?

Response: Ah, this sounds like anthracnose. The fungus was likely already in the fruit. Next time, harvest carefully without bruising the fruits. Store them in a cool, dry place right away. For now, remove any affected fruits to stop the spread. Also, consider spraying mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time next season, following the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis black spot for my mango leaf?

Response: That black spot na anthracnose, a fungal disease. It loves wet weather. To fight it, prune your tree to let air move freely. Remove any fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Avoid wetting the leaves when you water. This week, start cleaning up under your tree.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose during the rainy season?

Response: You should spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride every 10 days during the rainy season. Start at the flowering stage. Always follow the label instructions carefully. This helps protect your flowers and fruits. This week, check your trees and plan your spraying schedule.


Instruction: What is the best way to harvest mangoes to prevent anthracnose?

Response: Harvest mangoes carefully, my friend. Handle them gently to avoid bruises. A slight colour change at the tip is a sign of maturity for most varieties. Harvest at this stage and store the fruits in a cool, dry place immediately. This prevents the fungus from spreading. This week, check your mangoes for signs of maturity.


Instruction: Can I use any homemade remedies to control anthracnose in mango trees?

Response: I tell you, homemade remedies may not work well for anthracnose. The best way is to prune your trees, remove fallen leaves and fruits, and spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. These methods are more reliable. This week, start pruning your trees.


Instruction: Why do my mangoes turn black within two days of harvest?

Response: This happens because the anthracnose fungus was already inside the fruit. The fungus grows fast as the fruit ripens. To prevent this, harvest carefully and store the fruits in a cool, dry place immediately. This week, inspect your mangoes for any signs of the disease.


Instruction: How can I improve air circulation in my mango orchard?

Response: Prune your mango trees after every harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. This helps reduce humidity around the leaves and fruits. Also, space your trees properly when planting. This week, start pruning your trees.


Instruction: What should I do if my mango flowers are dying before fruiting?

Response: This is likely blossom blight caused by anthracnose. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rains. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation. This week, check your flowers and plan your spraying schedule.


Instruction: Is there a cheap way to manage anthracnose in mango trees?

Response: Yes, my friend. Start by pruning your trees to improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation. These simple steps cost little but help a lot. This week, start cleaning up under your trees.


Instruction: my friend, my groundnut leaves are yellow and bunched up, wetin dey cause this

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by tiny insects called aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it will never recover. First thing first, remove the sick plants immediately to stop the disease spreading. Then check with your extension officer about resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23 for next season.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut plants have rosette disease?

Response: Look for plants that stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves that bunch together. These are classic signs of groundnut rosette. The leaves might look like they're trying to form a rosette shape. If you see this, remove those plants immediately to protect your healthy ones. Check with your extension officer about resistant varieties for next season.


Instruction: Why are my groundnut plants not growing tall?

Response: If your groundnut plants are staying small and bushy with yellow leaves, it could be groundnut rosette disease. This virus makes plants stunted and weak. There's no cure, so remove infected plants right away. For next season, plant early at the start of rains and use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent groundnut rosette in my field?

Response: First, plant early at the very start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 or ask your extension officer for local ones. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control aphids. Also, keep your field very clean by weeding regularly - weeds host aphids which spread the disease.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and the plants are stunted. What should I do?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease, a deadly virus spread by aphids. Unfortunately, there's no cure once plants are infected. Remove the sick plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: How can I stop aphids from attacking my groundnut plants?

Response: Aphids spread groundnut rosette disease, so control is very important. First, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also, keep your field very clean by weeding regularly - weeds host aphids. Planting early at the start of rains can also help you avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: What should I do if I find groundnut rosette in my field?

Response: No need to panic, but act quickly. Remove all infected plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Then check with your extension officer about resistant varieties for next season. Also, make sure to plant early at the start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: Which groundnut varieties resist rosette disease?

Response: Good varieties to try are SAMNUT 22, SAMNUT 23, or the RG 1 series. These have some resistance to groundnut rosette. Ask your extension officer for local varieties that work well in your area too. Always plant early at the start of rains to give your plants the best chance.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and have yellow leaves. How I go treat am?

Response: This could be groundnut rosette disease. Unfortunately, there's no treatment once plants are infected. Remove the sick plants immediately to protect the healthy ones. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting.


Instruction: What can I do to protect my groundnut crop from rosette disease?

Response: First, plant early at the very start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series or ask your extension officer for local ones. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control aphids. Also, keep your field very clean by weeding regularly - weeds host aphids which spread the disease.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is black pod disease. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground, o!


Instruction: How I go treat cocoa black pod disease?

Response: First, you must remove all the infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Then, prune your trees to let in more light and air. During the rainy season, use a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What causes cocoa pods to rot and turn black?

Response: This is black pod disease caused by a fungus. It loves wet and humid conditions. One bad pod can infect many others. The best thing is to remove and bury or burn the bad pods immediately.


Instruction: My cocoa farm is full of black pods. How I go prevent this next season?

Response: You must do sanitation harvesting — remove all bad pods, mummified pods, and deadwood. Prune your trees regularly to improve airflow. Also, apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why my cocoa pods are rotting even after I treat them?

Response: Maybe you are not removing all the infected pods. Remember, one bad pod can infect many others. Also, ensure you are pruning your trees to let in more light and air. During the rainy season, use a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks.


Instruction: How often I go spray my cocoa trees to prevent black pod?

Response: During the rainy season, you should spray a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. But first, remove all the infected pods and prune your trees to improve airflow. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What I go do if I see black spots on my cocoa pods?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Remove the pods with black spots immediately and bury them deep or burn them. Then, prune your trees to let in more light and air. During the rainy season, use a copper-based fungicide every 2 to 3 weeks.


Instruction: Can I leave the black pods on the ground?

Response: No, you must not leave them on the ground. One bad pod can infect many others. Remove and bury them deep or burn them. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce the humidity inside the farm.


Instruction: How I go know if my cocoa pods are infected?

Response: Look for brown or black rotting patches on the pods. This is black pod disease. Remove the infected pods immediately and bury them deep or burn them. Also, prune your trees to let in more light and air.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: The best way is to remove all infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Prune your trees regularly to improve airflow. During the rainy season, use a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first, you must remove all the infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help stop the disease from spreading so fast. Start pruning today!


Instruction: My cocoa pods don turn black and rotten. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, this is black pod disease. It happens when the weather is wet and humid. The fungus spreads very fast. You must remove the bad pods and burn them. Also, prune your trees to let more air in. Do this now to save your other pods.


Instruction: Is there a cheap way to treat black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: Yes, the cheapest way is to remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help stop the disease from spreading. Start pruning today!


Instruction: How can I prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm without spending much?

Response: The best way is to keep your farm clean. Remove all the bad pods, mummified pods, and deadwood. This is called sanitation harvesting. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. Do this every week to prevent the disease.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black patches on my cocoa pods?

Response: Ah, this is black pod disease. You must remove the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. Do this now to save your other pods.


Instruction: How can I stop black pod disease from destroying my cocoa farm?

Response: My friend, you must remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help stop the disease from spreading. Start pruning today!


Instruction: My cocoa farm is full of black pod disease. How I go treat am?

Response: You must remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help stop the disease from spreading. Start pruning today!


Instruction: What is the best way to manage black pod disease in cocoa without spending much?

Response: The best way is to keep your farm clean. Remove all the bad pods, mummified pods, and deadwood. This is called sanitation harvesting. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. Do this every week to prevent the disease.


Instruction: How can I prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: You must remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help stop the disease from spreading. Start pruning today!


Instruction: What should I do to stop black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: My friend, you must remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help stop the disease from spreading. Start pruning today!


Instruction: Greet the farmer and explain what FarmBot can help with

Response: Hello my friend! I am FarmBot, your helper for rice farming. I can help you spot diseases and give you good advice to keep your rice healthy.


Instruction: What is rice blast?

Response: Rice blast is a very bad fungus disease that attacks rice leaves and stems. It causes diamond-shaped spots on leaves and can make the grain-bearing stalk fall over. This is very dangerous for your rice crop.


Instruction: How can I tell if my rice has blast?

Response: Look for diamond or spindle-shaped spots on the leaves with a grey or white center and brown or reddish edges. If you see these, check the base of the grain-bearing stalk for damage. That is a sign of neck blast, the worst kind.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause rice blast?

Response: The thing is, rice blast comes from a fungus that loves cool nights, high humidity, and too much nitrogen fertilizer. If your farm has these things, the fungus will grow strong and attack your rice.


Instruction: When should I spray fungicide for rice blast?

Response: First thing first, spray fungicide like tricyclazole, isoprothiolane, or propiconazole at the first sign of leaf lesions. For neck blast prevention, spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything, my friend.


Instruction: My rice leaves don spoil, how I go treat am?

Response: No need to panic. Spray fungicide immediately. Use tricyclazole, isoprothiolane, or propiconazole. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer use. Too much can make the problem worse.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant rice to avoid blast?

Response: Plant your rice early in the season when nights are warmer. Avoid planting in areas with high humidity and heavy dew. Also, choose blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or NERICA series.


Instruction: How often should I check my rice for blast?

Response: Check your rice every week, especially after rain or when the weather is cool and humid. Early detection is key to stopping the disease from spreading.


Instruction: When should I burn rice straw after harvest?

Response: Burn the rice straw right after harvest. This destroys the fungal spores that survive in the crop residues. Do not leave the straw in the field for too long.


Instruction: What should I do if I see neck blast in my rice?

Response: If you see neck blast, act fast. Spray fungicide immediately and remove the affected plants to stop the disease from spreading. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer use and reduce it if it is too high.


Instruction: How can I grow plantain without spending too much money?

Response: My friend, first thing first: plant your suckers at the start of the rainy season when the soil is moist. Space them well at 3 metres by 3 metres to allow good airflow and easy harvesting. This helps prevent diseases and reduces work later. Mulch heavily with whatever organic material you have around — grass, leaves, or crop residues. This keeps moisture in and weeds down without buying expensive herbicides.


Instruction: Na so I go plant plantain make e no cost me much money?

Response: Plantain needs space to grow well. Put your suckers 3 metres apart. This way, you won’t need to spend money on pesticides because good airflow keeps diseases away. Also, mulch well with free materials like dry grass or leaves. This saves water and stops weeds. Start with clean suckers from a trusted source to avoid diseases that cost money to control.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to fertilize plantain?

Response: Plantain loves potassium, but you don’t need expensive fertilizers. Use compost or well-rotted manure around the base of the plant. If you must buy fertilizer, look for one with high potassium content. Apply it carefully, following the label instructions. Also, mulch heavily to keep the soil fertile and retain moisture. This reduces the need for frequent fertilizing.


Instruction: How can I prevent diseases in my plantain farm without spending much?

Response: The best way to prevent diseases is to plant healthy suckers from a clean source. Space your plants well at 3 metres by 3 metres for good airflow. Mulch heavily to keep the soil moist and suppress weeds. Also, desuckering is important — keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. This reduces crowding and disease spread. If you see any strange symptoms, act fast before it costs you.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and brown. What is this and how do I treat it?

Response: This sounds like bunchy top disease. The thing is, there is no cure. The moment you see these signs, chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do not waste money on treatment. Also, never move suckers from this farm — the virus hides inside them with no visible signs. Start fresh with certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets.


Instruction: How can I save money on planting materials for plantain?

Response: Do not take suckers from a farm that had bunchy top disease. The virus hides inside the sucker with no signs. Instead, buy certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets from a trusted source. It might cost a bit more upfront, but it saves you from costly diseases later. Also, plant at the start of the rainy season for better establishment and less need for irrigation.


Instruction: Why is my plantain not growing well and how can I fix it cheaply?

Response: If your plantain is not growing well, it might be due to poor spacing or lack of potassium. Space your plants at 3 metres by 3 metres for good airflow and growth. For potassium, use compost or well-rotted manure. If you must buy fertilizer, choose one with high potassium content and follow the label instructions. Also, mulch heavily to retain moisture and suppress weeds.


Instruction: How can I manage weeds in my plantain farm without spending much?

Response: Mulching is the cheapest way to manage weeds in plantain. Use dry grass, leaves, or crop residues around the base of the plants. This blocks sunlight from reaching the weeds and keeps the soil moist. Mulching also reduces the need for frequent weeding, saving you time and money. Start mulching as soon as you plant your suckers.


Instruction: What should I do if I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves?

Response: Those dark green streaks are a sign of bunchy top disease. I tell you, there is no cure. The moment you see these signs, chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do not waste money on treatment. Also, never move suckers from this farm — the virus hides inside them with no visible signs. Start fresh with certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets.


Instruction: How can I ensure my plantain farm is productive without spending too much?

Response: Plant your suckers at the start of the rainy season for better establishment. Space them well at 3 metres by 3 metres for good airflow and easy harvesting. Desuckering is important — keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. Mulch heavily to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Apply potassium-rich fertilizer, but first try compost or well-rotted manure to save money. Start with clean suckers to avoid diseases that cost money to control.


Instruction: How to treat plantain with short, stiff leaves?

Response: My friend, that sounds like bunchy top virus. The thing is, there's no cure. First thing first: chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This week, check all your plants and remove any with dark green streaks on the leaves.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don turn yellow and brown, wetin I go do?

Response: That's bunchy top virus, I tell you. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Then, check your other plants carefully for dark green streaks or dots along the veins.


Instruction: What should I do if my plantain plant has dark streaks on the leaves?

Response: That's bunchy top virus, my friend. There's no cure, so you must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This week, inspect all your plants and remove any with similar symptoms.


Instruction: How do I save my plantain from bunchy top?

Response: I'm sorry to say, but there's no saving a plant with bunchy top. The only thing to do is remove it immediately. Chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Then, check your other plants for symptoms and remove any infected ones.


Instruction: What is the best treatment for plantain with crowded leaves at the top?

Response: That's bunchy top virus, and there's no treatment. The only thing you can do is remove the infected plant. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This week, inspect all your plants and remove any with similar symptoms.


Instruction: How to manage plantain with stiff, narrow leaves?

Response: That's bunchy top virus, my friend. There's no managing it, I'm afraid. You must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Then, check your other plants for symptoms and remove any infected ones.


Instruction: What do I do if my plantain plant has dark green dots on the leaves?

Response: That's bunchy top virus, and it's very serious. There's no cure, so you must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This week, inspect all your plants and remove any with similar symptoms.


Instruction: How to cure plantain with yellowing leaves?

Response: I'm sorry, but there's no cure for bunchy top virus. The only thing to do is remove the infected plant. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Then, check your other plants for symptoms and remove any infected ones.


Instruction: What is the solution for plantain with brown edges on leaves?

Response: That's bunchy top virus, and it's very serious. There's no solution, I'm afraid. You must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This week, inspect all your plants and remove any with similar symptoms.


Instruction: How to handle plantain with short leaves at the top?

Response: That's bunchy top virus, my friend. There's no handling it, but you must act fast. Chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Then, check your other plants for symptoms and remove any infected ones.


Instruction: How can I prevent groundnut rosette disease from spreading in my field?

Response: My friend, groundnut rosette spreads through tiny insects called aphids. First thing first, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to kill any aphids. And always weed your farm well — weeds hide these harmful insects. Today, check your local extension officer for resistant varieties.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis groundnut rosette problem?

Response: Groundnut rosette is caused by a virus that tiny aphids spread from plant to plant. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it never recovers. You must pull it out immediately to save the rest. To stop it spreading, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Ask your extension officer for local ones.


Instruction: What are the signs that my groundnut plants have rosette disease?

Response: If your groundnut plants stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves, that's rosette disease. The leaves bunch up and the plant never grows properly. There's no cure, so remove the plant right away to protect the others. Today, check all your plants and pull out any that look like this.


Instruction: Why is groundnut rosette so dangerous early in the season?

Response: Early in the season, there are more aphids around to spread the virus. If your plants get infected early, the whole crop can fail. Plant your groundnuts right at the start of the rains to avoid the worst aphid populations. Today, check your planting calendar and make sure you're not too late.


Instruction: How can I stop groundnut rosette from spreading to my healthy plants?

Response: To stop the spread, first remove any infected plants immediately. Then treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to kill aphids. Also, keep your farm very clean — weeds attract aphids. Today, check your field for weeds and remove them.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and bunching up — what is this?

Response: That sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it won't recover. You must pull it out right away to save the rest. Today, check all your plants and remove any that look sick.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent groundnut rosette in my field this season?

Response: To prevent rosette, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like RG 1 series. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Keep your field clean of weeds — they hide aphids. Today, visit your extension officer for advice on resistant varieties.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette spread so quickly in my field?

Response: Groundnut rosette spreads through tiny aphids that move from plant to plant. The thing is, they multiply fast and can infect a whole field quickly. To stop them, plant resistant varieties and treat seeds with insecticide. Today, check your field for aphids and remove any weeds.


Instruction: What should I do if I find a groundnut plant with rosette disease?

Response: If you find a plant with rosette, pull it out immediately. There's no cure, so removing it will protect the rest. Then check all your plants and remove any others that look sick. Today, start by removing any infected plants you find.


Instruction: How can I make sure groundnut rosette doesn't spread to my neighbour's farm?

Response: To stop the spread, first remove any infected plants right away. Then treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Keep your field clean of weeds — they attract aphids. Today, check your field for weeds and remove them.


Instruction: How do I prevent cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: My friend, the best way to stop cassava mosaic is to start with clean stems from healthy plants. Never use stems from a farm that had mosaic before. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419. This season, check your stems before planting and remove any with yellow spots.


Instruction: Wetin I go do to stop cassava mosaic from spoil my farm?

Response: First thing first, my friend. If you see yellow and green patches on leaves, remove that plant immediately and burn it. Do not compost it. Also, use neem spray to control whiteflies that spread the virus. You can make neem spray by soaking neem leaves in water for 24 hours, then strain and spray.


Instruction: What can I do to keep my cassava plants healthy and free from diseases?

Response: To keep your cassava healthy, always plant disease-free stems. Space them well—1 metre by 1 metre—and weed regularly for the first 3 months. Also, mound the soil before planting to improve drainage. This helps your tubers grow bigger and healthier.


Instruction: How can I make sure my cassava does not get mosaic disease?

Response: The thing is, mosaic disease spreads through whiteflies and infected stems. So, plant resistant varieties and use yellow sticky traps to catch whiteflies. Also, always inspect your stems before planting and remove any with yellow spots or curling leaves.


Instruction: What should I do if I see yellow spots on my cassava leaves?

Response: If you see yellow spots, that is mosaic disease. No need to panic, but act fast. Remove and burn the infected plants immediately. Do not compost them. Also, check the rest of your farm and remove any other infected plants. This will stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: How do I stop whiteflies from attacking my cassava?

Response: Whiteflies spread cassava mosaic, so control them with neem-based sprays. You can make neem spray by soaking neem leaves in water for 24 hours, then strain and spray on your plants. Also, use yellow sticky traps around your farm to catch whiteflies.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant cassava to avoid diseases?

Response: The best way is to plant at the start of the rainy season using disease-free stems. Space them 1 metre by 1 metre and mound the soil before planting. Also, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. This will give your cassava the best chance to grow healthy.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and have yellow spots. What is this and how do I stop it?

Response: That is cassava mosaic disease. It is caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. To stop it, remove and burn the infected plants immediately. Do not compost them. Also, use neem spray to control whiteflies and plant resistant varieties next season.


Instruction: How can I prevent cassava mosaic disease from coming to my farm?

Response: To prevent mosaic disease, always use clean stems from healthy plants. Do not use stems from a farm that had mosaic before. Also, plant resistant varieties and control whiteflies with neem spray or yellow sticky traps. This will help keep your farm safe.


Instruction: What should I do to keep my cassava farm healthy and free from pests?

Response: To keep your cassava healthy, plant disease-free stems and space them well. Weed regularly for the first 3 months and mound the soil before planting. Also, use neem spray to control whiteflies and plant resistant varieties. This will help your cassava grow strong and healthy.


Instruction: My mango tree has black spots on the leaves. What is this and what not to do?

Response: My friend, this is mango anthracnose disease. First thing first, don't panic. But don't wait either. The thing is, this fungus spreads fast in wet weather. Don't water your tree from above — this keeps leaves wet and helps the disease spread. Instead, water at the base of the tree. Also, don't leave fallen leaves and fruits on the ground — remove them quickly to stop spores spreading.


Instruction: I see dark spots on my mango fruits. What not to do to stop this?

Response: Ah, those dark spots are anthracnose. Don't harvest fruits when it's raining or when the weather is very humid. Don't drop the fruits when harvesting — handle them gently. Bruises let the fungus enter. Don't leave harvested fruits in the sun or in a wet place. Take them to a cool, dry spot right away.


Instruction: My mango flowers are turning black. What not to do?

Response: This is blossom blight caused by anthracnose. Don't ignore it — this disease will stop your fruits from forming. Don't spray any chemicals without checking the label first. Use mancozeb or copper oxychloride, but follow the label instructions carefully. Spray at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: Wetin be dis black spot for my mango leaf?

Response: Na anthracnose disease wey dey cause am. No dey leave leaf wey get spot for ground. Carry am go burn or bury far-far. No dey spray water for top of leaf — water for base of tree. Prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation.


Instruction: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but turn black after 2 days. What not to do?

Response: This is anthracnose disease. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Don't harvest fruits when they are wet from rain or dew. Don't drop the fruits when harvesting — handle them gently. Bruises let the fungus enter. Don't leave harvested fruits in the sun or in a wet place. Take them to a cool, dry spot right away.


Instruction: How I go prevent black spots on my mango fruits?

Response: First, don't water your tree from above — this keeps leaves wet and helps the disease spread. Don't leave fallen leaves and fruits on the ground — remove them quickly to stop spores spreading. Prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: My mango tree has black spots on leaves and fruits. What not to do?

Response: This is anthracnose disease. Don't ignore it — this disease will spread fast in wet weather. Don't water your tree from above — this keeps leaves wet and helps the disease spread. Don't leave fallen leaves and fruits on the ground — remove them quickly to stop spores spreading. Don't harvest fruits when it's raining or when the weather is very humid.


Instruction: What not to do if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: Don't wait to act — this disease spreads fast. Don't water your tree from above — this keeps leaves wet and helps the disease spread. Don't leave fallen leaves and fruits on the ground — remove them quickly to stop spores spreading. Don't ignore pruning — remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: My mango fruits get black spots after harvest. What not to do?

Response: This is anthracnose disease. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Don't harvest fruits when they are wet from rain or dew. Don't drop the fruits when harvesting — handle them gently. Bruises let the fungus enter. Don't leave harvested fruits in the sun or in a wet place. Take them to a cool, dry spot right away.


Instruction: How I go stop dis black spot for my mango tree?

Response: Na anthracnose disease wey dey cause am. No dey leave leaf wey get spot for ground. Carry am go burn or bury far-far. No dey spray water for top of leaf — water for base of tree. Prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange diamond shapes with grey centers and brown edges. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. It's caused by a fungus and can destroy your crop if not treated. First thing first, stop using too much nitrogen fertilizer. You can spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away, but follow the label instructions carefully. Also, consider planting blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA next season.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over before harvest. The base of the stalk looks damaged. What is happening?

Response: This is neck blast, the worst form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall over. To prevent this next season, spray fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and avoid overcrowding seedlings during transplanting.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis for my rice leaf wey don dey turn white and brown?

Response: This is rice blast disease, my friend. The fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. To stop it, reduce nitrogen fertilizer and spray fungicide like isoprothiolane at the first sign of lesions. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: My rice leaves have spindle-shaped lesions. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, my friend, this is rice blast disease. It's caused by a fungus and can severely reduce your yield. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide immediately, but follow the label instructions carefully. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 next season.


Instruction: My rice plants are wilting and falling over. The base of the stalk is damaged. What should I do?

Response: This is neck blast, the most damaging form of rice blast disease. To prevent this next season, spray fungicide at the boot stage. Also, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and avoid overcrowding seedlings during transplanting.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey centers with brown edges. What is this and how do I treat it?

Response: This is rice blast disease, caused by a fungus. To treat it, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of lesions. Also, reduce nitrogen fertilizer and burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over before harvest. The base of the stalk is damaged. What is happening?

Response: This is neck blast, the worst form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall over. To prevent this next season, spray fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and avoid overcrowding seedlings during transplanting.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange diamond shapes with grey centers and brown edges. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. It's caused by a fungus and can destroy your crop if not treated. First thing first, stop using too much nitrogen fertilizer. You can spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away, but follow the label instructions carefully. Also, consider planting blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA next season.


Instruction: My rice plants are wilting and falling over. The base of the stalk is damaged. What should I do?

Response: This is neck blast, the most damaging form of rice blast disease. To prevent this next season, spray fungicide at the boot stage. Also, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and avoid overcrowding seedlings during transplanting.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey centers with brown edges. What is this and how do I treat it?

Response: This is rice blast disease, caused by a fungus. To treat it, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of lesions. Also, reduce nitrogen fertilizer and burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: My friend, my tomato leaves don get black spots with yellow circles. How I go stop am?

Response: My friend, this is early blight. The thing is, it spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, cut off all bad leaves and burn them — don't compost. Then spray with copper fungicide following the label instructions carefully. Next week, do it again. Also, water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. Today, start checking your farm every morning for new bad leaves.


Instruction: Help! My tomato plants suddenly get wet-looking brown patches. What is this and how I go save my farm?

Response: This is late blight, my friend. It destroys plants very fast in wet weather. Don't panic, but act quickly. Remove and burn all infected leaves and plants today. Spray with mancozeb fungicide following the label instructions carefully. Do this every week during the rainy season. Also, plant your tomatoes on raised beds next time to help prevent this.


Instruction: I see grey-green spots on my tomato leaves turning brown. Is this blight? What I go do now?

Response: Yes, this is late blight. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First, remove and burn all infected leaves and plants. Spray with chlorothalonil fungicide following the label instructions carefully. Do this every week during the rainy season. Also, make sure to rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season.


Instruction: My tomato plants suddenly wahala — leaves turn brown and die fast. What is this and how I go fix am?

Response: This sounds like late blight, my friend. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove and burn all bad leaves and plants. Spray with copper fungicide following the label instructions carefully. Do this every week during the rainy season. Also, water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves.


Instruction: Help! My tomato leaves don spoil fast-fast. Wetin dey cause this and how I go stop am?

Response: This is late blight, my friend. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First, remove and burn all infected leaves and plants. Spray with mancozeb fungicide following the label instructions carefully. Do this every week during the rainy season. Also, plant your tomatoes on raised beds next time to help prevent this.


Instruction: I see dark brown spots with rings on my tomato leaves. Is this blight? What I go do now?

Response: Yes, this is early blight. It spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, cut off all bad leaves and burn them — don't compost. Then spray with copper fungicide following the label instructions carefully. Do this every week during the rainy season. Also, water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves.


Instruction: My tomato plants suddenly get wet-looking brown patches. What is this and how I go save my farm?

Response: This is late blight, my friend. It destroys plants very fast in wet weather. Don't panic, but act quickly. Remove and burn all infected leaves and plants today. Spray with mancozeb fungicide following the label instructions carefully. Do this every week during the rainy season. Also, plant your tomatoes on raised beds next time to help prevent this.