Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and bushy with mottled leaves. What is the problem?

Response: That's groundnut rosette disease, my friend. It's a virus spread by aphids and can destroy your crop. Since there's no cure, uproot and burn the infected plants right away. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series. Also, keep your farm well-weeded to reduce aphid populations.


Instruction: Why are my groundnut plants stunted and have yellow bunched leaves?

Response: That's groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. It's deadly, especially early in the season. The infected plants won't recover, so remove and burn them immediately. To prevent this, plant early at the start of rains and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting.


Instruction: My friend, I see my plantain leaves looking funny — short and stiff at the top. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is banana bunchy top virus. It is very bad news — your plant is a total loss. First thing first: chop it down immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. No need to panic, but act fast today.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. What is happening?

Response: Those streaks are a bad sign — it is bunchy top virus. The thing is, there is no cure. Do not waste money on treatment. Right now, cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus spreading. Do this today, my friend.


Instruction: I want to plant new plantain suckers. Can I take them from my old farm?

Response: No, no, no! Never take suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus hides inside the sucker with no signs. Go to a clean source or buy tissue culture plantlets. This week, find a reliable supplier.


Instruction: My plantain plant has no bunch but the leaves look funny. What should I do?

Response: That is bunchy top virus, I tell you. There is nothing to do for the plant, but you must act fast. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this today before it spreads.


Instruction: I see yellow and brown spots on my plantain leaves. What is this?

Response: Those spots mean bunchy top virus. It is too late to save the plant, but you can stop it spreading. Cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat right away. Do this today.


Instruction: I want to save money. Can I treat bunchy top with local medicine?

Response: No, my friend, do not waste your money. There is no cure for bunchy top. The best thing is to cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do this today to protect your other plants.


Instruction: How I go know if my plantain plant get bunchy top?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You will see dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. If you see these signs, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat immediately. Do this today.


Instruction: I want to plant plantain. When is the best time?

Response: The best time is at the start of the rainy season. This way, the plants get enough water to grow strong. Do not wait — check the weather and plant as soon as the rains begin.


Instruction: I see many suckers on my plantain plant. How many should I keep?

Response: Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. Too many suckers will weaken the plant. Remove the extra ones this week to help your plantain grow strong.


Instruction: My plantain farm is full of weeds. What should I do?

Response: Weeds steal water and nutrients from your plantain. Mulch heavily around the plants to suppress weeds and retain moisture. Do this this week to help your plantain grow better.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant my plantain suckers?

Response: My friend, the best time to plant is right at the start of the rainy season. This gives your plantain suckers the moisture they need to establish well. If you haven't planted yet, check your local weather and get those suckers in the ground as soon as the rains begin.


Instruction: How often should I desuckering my plantain farm?

Response: First thing first, you must desucker regularly. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat at any time. Do this every 2 to 3 months to keep your plants healthy and productive. If you haven't desuckered in a while, go out to your farm this week and do it right away.


Instruction: Wetin be the best spacing for my plantain farm?

Response: The best spacing is 3 metres by 3 metres. This gives your plants enough room to grow and allows good airflow to prevent diseases. If your plants are too close, you need to thin them out right away to give them space to thrive.


Instruction: When should I apply fertilizer to my plantain?

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Apply fertilizer at planting and again after 3 months. If you haven't fertilized recently, go to your nearest agro input shop this week and get some potassium-rich fertilizer for your plants.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don turn brown and dry from top. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Oh no, my friend, this sounds like bunchy top disease. There is no cure, so you must act fast. Chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat right away. Do not waste time, go and do this today to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: How I go know if my plantain farm get bunchy top?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You may also see dark green streaks and dots along the veins that turn yellow then brown. If you see these signs, do not panic, but act immediately. Chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: Can I treat bunchy top with chemicals?

Response: No, my friend, there is no treatment for bunchy top. The moment you see symptoms, you must chop the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm so it cannot reshoot and keep hosting the virus. Do not waste money on treatments that won't work.


Instruction: When should I mulch my plantain farm?

Response: Mulch heavily around your plants right after planting and again every few months. Mulching helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. If you haven't mulched recently, gather some dry grass or leaves and spread them around your plants this week.


Instruction: How often should I check my plantain for bunchy top?

Response: Check your plants at least once a week for signs of bunchy top. Early detection is key to preventing the spread. If you see any symptoms, act immediately by chopping the plant and injecting the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Stay vigilant, my friend.


Instruction: Can I use suckers from a farm that had bunchy top?

Response: No, never use suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Always plant only certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. If you have any doubt, go and get clean suckers this week.


Instruction: My friend, my tomato leaves don get dark brown spots with small rings inside. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, that sounds like early blight. The thing is, this disease loves wet weather. First thing first, pick and burn any leaves with spots. Don't compost them. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Also, water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves.


Instruction: I notice grey-green patches on my tomato leaves that turn brown quickly. What could this be and how do I stop it?

Response: That's late blight, my friend. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn any infected leaves right away. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide every week in the rainy season. Also, plant your tomatoes on raised beds next time to help with drainage.


Instruction: How can I prevent tomato diseases in my farm this season?

Response: To prevent diseases, first rotate your crops. Don't plant tomatoes in the same spot two seasons in a row. Plant maize or cowpea instead. Also, stake your plants to keep them off the ground and space them well for good airflow. Water at the base, not on the leaves, and spray with fungicide every week during rain.


Instruction: My tomato plants get sick quickly during the rain. What am I doing wrong?

Response: Ah, rain brings diseases like blight. The thing is, wet leaves invite trouble. Water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. Also, remove and burn any sick leaves immediately. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week in the rainy season. And plant on raised beds for better drainage.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomato plants have blight?

Response: Blight shows as dark brown spots with rings for early blight, or grey-green patches that turn brown for late blight. Both start on lower leaves and spread fast in wet weather. Check your plants often, especially during rain. Remove and burn any infected leaves right away to stop the spread.


Instruction: What should I do if I see spots on my tomato leaves?

Response: If you see spots, it's likely early blight. Pick and burn those leaves immediately. Don't compost them. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Also, water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves, to keep them dry.


Instruction: My tomato plants keep getting sick. How can I keep them healthy?

Response: To keep your plants healthy, rotate your crops. Don't plant tomatoes in the same spot two seasons in a row. Plant maize or cowpea instead. Also, stake your plants to keep them off the ground and space them well. Water at the base, not on the leaves, and spray with fungicide every week during rain.


Instruction: What is the best way to space tomato plants to avoid diseases?

Response: Space your tomato plants at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This gives them good airflow, which helps prevent diseases. Also, stake or cage them at 30 cm height to keep fruits and leaves off the ground. Water at the base, not on the leaves, and remove any sick leaves immediately.


Instruction: How often should I spray my tomato plants with fungicide?

Response: Spray your tomato plants with mancozeb, chlorothalonil, or copper fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. This helps prevent blight. Also, remove and burn any infected leaves right away. Water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves, to keep them dry.


Instruction: What can I do to protect my tomato plants from blight this season?

Response: To protect your plants, first rotate your crops. Don't plant tomatoes in the same spot two seasons in a row. Plant maize or cowpea instead. Also, stake your plants to keep them off the ground and space them well. Water at the base, not on the leaves, and spray with fungicide every week during rain. Remove and burn any sick leaves immediately.


Instruction: What if I leave the black pod disease pods on the ground?

Response: My friend, never leave them on the ground! The thing is, those pods will spread the disease to healthy pods. You must bury them deeply or burn them to stop the disease. Today, go and check your farm, remove any infected pods you see and dispose of them properly.


Instruction: Why no can I wait until the end of the season to remove all the bad pods?

Response: Sanitation harvesting is very important. If you wait, the disease will spread fast and infect many pods. Remove diseased pods, mummified pods and deadwood as soon as you see them. This week, go and do a thorough check of your farm and remove any infected pods you find.


Instruction: Is it okay to harvest my cocoa pods when they are overstay?

Response: No, never let your pods overstay! Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection for black pod disease. Harvest your pods every 2 weeks. Today, check your farm and harvest any ripe pods you see.


Instruction: What is the problem with planting new cocoa farms late in the rainy season?

Response: If you plant too late, the young plants will not be strong enough to fight off diseases like black pod. The rainy season is the worst time for this disease. First thing first, if you plan to establish a new farm, do it early in the season.


Instruction: Can I skip pruning my cocoa trees?

Response: No, you must prune your trees regularly. Pruning improves airflow and reduces the humidity inside the farm, which helps prevent black pod disease. This week, take your pruning tools and give your trees a good trim.


Instruction: Why no can I use just any fungicide for black pod disease?

Response: Only use copper-based fungicides like Ridomil Gold or Nordox. These are the ones that work best. Follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your farm and apply the fungicide if it's the rainy season.


Instruction: What if I don't mulch the base of my cocoa trees?

Response: Mulching helps retain moisture and improves the soil. Without it, your trees may not grow as well. Gather dead leaves and spread them around the base of your trees. Do this today if you haven't already.


Instruction: Is it okay to ignore the shade in my cocoa farm?

Response: No, too much shade makes the farm humid, and that's bad for black pod disease. Prune your trees to allow more light and air into the canopy. This week, take your pruning tools and give your trees a good trim.


Instruction: Why no can I wait until the disease is bad before I start treating it?

Response: If you wait, the disease will spread fast and destroy many pods. Start treating as soon as you see the first signs. Today, check your farm and apply copper-based fungicide if it's the rainy season.


Instruction: What if I don't harvest my cocoa pods every 2 weeks?

Response: Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection for black pod disease. Harvest your pods every 2 weeks. Today, check your farm and harvest any ripe pods you see.


Instruction: How can I tell if my tomato plants have early blight or late blight?

Response: My friend, early blight shows brown spots with rings on lower leaves. Late blight makes grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves right away.


Instruction: What's the difference between early blight and late blight in tomatoes?

Response: Early blight starts with brown spots on older leaves, often with yellow halos. Late blight causes big, water-soaked patches that spread fast in wet weather. Both are bad, but late blight can kill plants in days. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: Which one is worse for tomatoes, early blight or late blight?

Response: Late blight is the worse one, my friend. It can destroy your whole farm in just a few days during rain. Early blight is bad too, but not as fast. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: How does early blight spread compared to late blight?

Response: Both spread fast in wet weather, but late blight spreads even faster. It can wipe out your farm in days. Early blight takes longer. No need to panic, but check your plants now and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: Why is late blight more dangerous than early blight for tomatoes?

Response: Late blight spreads like fire in wet weather. It can kill your plants in days. Early blight is bad, but not as fast. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves to stop it spreading.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomato plants have early blight or late blight?

Response: Early blight shows brown spots with rings on lower leaves. Late blight makes big, water-soaked patches that turn brown fast. Check your plants now and remove any bad leaves right away.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause early blight and late blight for tomato?

Response: Early blight is caused by a fungus, late blight by a different one. Both love wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves to stop them spreading.


Instruction: How can I stop early blight and late blight from spreading in my tomato farm?

Response: First thing first, remove and burn any bad leaves today. Spray fungicide every week in rainy season. Water at the base, not the leaves. Plant on ridges for better drainage. Check your plants now and start treating them.


Instruction: Which blight is more common in rainy season, early or late?

Response: Both are bad in rainy season, but late blight is worse. It spreads fast in wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves to stop it spreading.


Instruction: How do I prevent early blight and late blight in my tomato farm?

Response: Spray fungicide every week in rainy season. Remove and burn bad leaves right away. Water at the base, not the leaves. Plant on ridges for better drainage. Check your plants now and start treating them.


Instruction: How is groundnut rosette different from normal groundnut growth?

Response: My friend, groundnut rosette makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow, mottled leaves. Normal growth is tall and healthy. First thing first — check your plants today, if you see this, remove them immediately.


Instruction: Can you explain why early planting helps avoid groundnut rosette?

Response: Yes, planting early at the start of rains helps escape the peak aphid populations that come later. These aphids spread the deadly rosette virus. So, if you haven't planted yet, do it now at the very start of rains.


Instruction: What's the difference between SAMNUT 22 and normal groundnut varieties?

Response: SAMNUT 22 is a resistant variety against groundnut rosette. Normal varieties are more likely to get infected. If you're planting soon, get seeds from SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local resistant varieties.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette compare to other groundnut diseases?

Response: Groundnut rosette is the most deadly — once a plant has it, it will never recover. Other diseases may not be as severe. The thing is, you must remove infected plants immediately to save the rest of your farm.


Instruction: Why is it bad to use too much nitrogen on groundnut?

Response: Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen from the air. Too much nitrogen makes the plant grow lots of leaves but few pods. This is bad because you want pods, not just leaves. Check your fertilizer today and reduce nitrogen if it's too high.


Instruction: How does waterlogged soil affect groundnut compared to well-drained soil?

Response: Waterlogged soil causes pod rot, while well-drained sandy loam soil helps groundnut grow well. If your farm is waterlogged, plant on ridges or mounds this week to improve drainage.


Instruction: What's the difference between harvesting groundnut early and late?

Response: Harvesting early before heavy rains avoids aflatoxin contamination in wet pods. Late harvesting risks this dangerous toxin. Check the weather forecast and plan to harvest before the rains come.


Instruction: Why is proper drying important for groundnut?

Response: Proper drying ensures moisture is below 9 percent, preventing aflatoxin. High moisture is very dangerous. If you have harvested pods, dry them properly in the sun this week.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette spread compared to other pests?

Response: Groundnut rosette spreads through the cowpea aphid. Other pests may spread differently. To control aphids, use insecticide seed treatment before planting. If you're about to plant, treat your seeds now.


Instruction: My groundnut don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: If your groundnut has small, bushy growth with yellow leaves, it's likely groundnut rosette. This is caused by aphids spreading the virus. Remove infected plants immediately and plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 next season.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads very fast in wet weather. The thing is, one bad pod can infect many others. First thing first, pick all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Never leave them on the ground.


Instruction: How I go know if my cocoa farm get black pod disease?

Response: Check your pods for brown or black rot. If you see this, it is black pod disease. It can happen at any time, but it spreads very fast when it is wet and humid. The best thing to do is remove the bad pods right away and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting. How I go stop this?

Response: This is black pod disease. To stop it, first remove all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: The best way is to keep your farm clean. Remove all bad pods, mummified pods, and deadwood. Also, prune your trees after each harvest to let light and air in. This will make it harder for the disease to spread. Mulch the base of your trees with dead leaves to keep the soil moist.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. What I go do?

Response: This is black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads very fast in wet weather. First, pick all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting and turning black. How I go treat this?

Response: This is black pod disease. To treat it, first remove all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What is the cause of black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease is caused by a fungus called Phytophthora palmivora and Phytophthora megakarya. It spreads very fast in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. One infected pod can infect many others. The best thing to do is remove the bad pods right away and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: How often I go spray my cocoa farm to prevent black pod disease?

Response: During the rainy season, spray your cocoa farm with a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remove all bad pods and prune your trees to let more light and air in.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting. What is the best thing to do?

Response: This is black pod disease. The best thing to do is remove all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: How I go know if my cocoa farm is infected with black pod disease?

Response: Check your pods for brown or black rot. If you see this, it is black pod disease. It can happen at any time, but it spreads very fast when it is wet and humid. The best thing to do is remove the bad pods right away and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: How does black pod disease spread so quickly in cocoa farms?

Response: My friend, black pod disease spreads like fire in wet, humid conditions. One infected pod can infect ten others if you don't act fast. The fungus loves shade and wetness, so it spreads quickly when the farm is not well-aerated. First thing first, remove and bury any infected pods deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground.


Instruction: My cocoa farm is full of black pod disease. How did this happen?

Response: The thing is, black pod disease spreads fast in wet and humid conditions. If your farm is shaded and not well-aerated, the fungus will spread quickly. Infected pods can contaminate others, so you must remove and bury them deeply or burn them. Prune your trees to allow more light and air into the canopy.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause black pod for cocoa and how I go stop am?

Response: Black pod disease is caused by a fungus that loves wet and humid conditions. It spreads fast, especially in shaded areas. To stop it, remove and bury infected pods deeply or burn them. Prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks.


Instruction: What are the signs of black pod disease in cocoa and how does it spread?

Response: Black pod disease shows up as brown or black rotting patches on cocoa pods at any stage. It spreads extremely fast in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. One infected pod can infect ten others, so you must remove and bury them deeply or burn them. Prune your trees to allow more light and air into the canopy.


Instruction: How can I prevent black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: To prevent black pod disease from spreading, remove and bury infected pods deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees regularly to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks to avoid overstay pods, which are the biggest source of infection.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting with black patches. How did this happen?

Response: Black pod disease is caused by a fungus that thrives in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. It spreads quickly, especially if infected pods are not removed. To stop it, remove and bury the infected pods deeply or burn them. Prune your trees to allow more light and air into the canopy.


Instruction: What can I do to stop the spread of black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: First thing first, remove and bury any infected pods deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks to avoid overstay pods, which are the biggest source of infection.


Instruction: How does black pod disease affect cocoa yields?

Response: Black pod disease can destroy up to one third of your total harvest in a bad season if not managed. It spreads quickly in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. To stop it, remove and bury infected pods deeply or burn them. Prune your trees to allow more light and air into the canopy.


Instruction: Why is it important to remove infected cocoa pods immediately?

Response: One infected pod can infect ten others if you don't act fast. The fungus spreads quickly in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. Remove and bury infected pods deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity.


Instruction: How can I manage black pod disease in my cocoa farm during the rainy season?

Response: During the rainy season, apply copper-based fungicide every 2 to 3 weeks. Remove and bury infected pods deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks to avoid overstay pods, which are the biggest source of infection.


Instruction: My friend, I see black spots on my cocoa pods. What is this?

Response: My friend, that sounds like black pod disease. It's a fungus that attacks cocoa pods, making them rot and turn black. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, pick all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground, o.


Instruction: How I go know if my cocoa tree get black pod?

Response: Black pod disease will show as brown or black patches on your cocoa pods. It can happen at any time, even when the pods are still small. If you see this, you must act fast. Pick the bad pods and remove them from your farm right away.


Instruction: My cocoa farm always get black pod. What I go do?

Response: Black pod disease loves wet and shaded places. You must prune your trees to let light and air in. Also, harvest your ripe pods every two weeks. Overstay pods can get infected and spread the disease. After harvest, do sanitation harvesting — remove all bad pods, deadwood, and mummified pods together.


Instruction: I hear copper fungicide can help with black pod. Is this true?

Response: Yes, my friend, copper-based fungicides like Ridomil Gold or Nordox can help. You should apply them every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. But remember, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, don't forget to prune your trees and remove bad pods to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: I just planted new cocoa trees. How I go prevent black pod?

Response: First thing first, don't plant new trees too late in the rainy season. After harvest, prune your trees to let light and air in. Also, mulch the base of the trees with dead leaves to keep the soil moist. And always remove any bad pods or deadwood you see.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don spoil. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: That sounds like black pod disease. It's caused by a fungus that loves wet and humid conditions. The bad pods must be removed and buried deeply or burned. Don't leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce the humidity inside the farm.


Instruction: How often I go spray fungicide for black pod?

Response: You should spray copper-based fungicide every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. But remember, spraying alone is not enough. You must also prune your trees and remove all bad pods to stop the disease from spreading. Follow the label instructions carefully when using fungicides.


Instruction: I see black pod in my farm. How I go treat am?

Response: First, pick all the bad pods and remove them from your farm. Bury them deeply or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground. Then, prune your trees to let light and air in. Also, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My cocoa farm get too much shade. Will this cause black pod?

Response: Yes, my friend, too much shade can cause black pod disease. The fungus loves wet and humid conditions. You must prune your trees to let light and air in. This will reduce the humidity and stop the disease from spreading. Also, remove all bad pods and deadwood from your farm.


Instruction: I hear sanitation harvesting can help with black pod. What is this?

Response: Sanitation harvesting is when you remove all bad pods, mummified pods, and deadwood at the same time. This stops the disease from spreading. After harvest, do this to keep your farm clean. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in. This will reduce the humidity and stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast disease in my farm?

Response: My friend, prevention is better than cure. First thing first, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. Keep your fields well-watered and don't overcrowd seedlings. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. This week, check your fields for proper spacing and water levels.


Instruction: My rice leaves don get small brown spots with grey centres, wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, my friend, this sound like rice blast disease. The fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. You must act fast! Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide now, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your fertilizer use — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus.


Instruction: What can I do to stop rice blast from spreading in my farm?

Response: To stop rice blast, maintain proper water levels and avoid overcrowding seedlings. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never exceed the recommended nitrogen dose. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. This week, inspect your fields and adjust water levels if needed.


Instruction: How can I protect my rice from neck blast?

Response: Neck blast is very damaging, but you can prevent it. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole at boot stage, before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything! Also, plant resistant varieties like FARO 57. This week, check your fields for the boot stage and prepare your fungicide.


Instruction: My rice stalks don fall down before harvest, wetin I go do?

Response: This is neck blast, a serious problem. You must spray fungicide immediately, follow the label instructions carefully. For next season, plant resistant varieties and spray fungicide at boot stage. This week, treat the affected plants and check your fields for more signs.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage rice blast disease?

Response: The best way is prevention. Plant resistant varieties, maintain proper water levels, and avoid overcrowding. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. Burn rice straw after harvest. This week, inspect your fields and adjust your practices if needed.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast without using chemicals?

Response: You can prevent rice blast by planting resistant varieties like NERICA series. Maintain proper water levels and avoid overcrowding seedlings. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. Burn rice straw after harvest. This week, check your fields for proper spacing and water levels.


Instruction: My rice leaves don get diamond-shaped spots, how I go treat am?

Response: This is rice blast, a serious disease. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide now, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your fertilizer use — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. This week, treat the affected plants and inspect your fields for more signs.


Instruction: What should I do if I see rice blast in my field?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Also, check your fertilizer use — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. This week, treat the affected plants and inspect your fields for more signs.


Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from coming back next season?

Response: To stop rice blast from coming back, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52. Maintain proper water levels and avoid overcrowding seedlings. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. Burn rice straw after harvest. This week, plan for next season's planting and choose resistant varieties.


Instruction: What should I not do if I find black spots on my cocoa pods?

Response: My friend, never leave the infected pods on the ground. You must remove and bury them deeply or burn them. This will stop the disease from spreading fast. First thing first, check your farm today and remove any infected pods you see.


Instruction: Is it good to plant cocoa late in the rainy season?

Response: No, no, no! Do not establish new farms too late in the rainy season. The thing is, wet conditions help the black pod disease spread. If you must plant, do it early in the rainy season. This week, check your planting schedule and adjust if needed.


Instruction: My cocoa farm is very shady. Is this a problem?

Response: Yes, too much shade is bad because black pod disease loves wet, humid conditions. Do not let your farm be too shady. Prune your trees to allow light and air in. Start pruning today to improve airflow in your farm.


Instruction: How often should I not harvest my cocoa pods?

Response: Do not wait too long to harvest ripe pods. Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection. Harvest every 2 weeks. This week, mark your calendar to harvest ripe pods regularly.


Instruction: Can I leave mummified pods on the tree?

Response: No, no! Do not leave mummified pods on the tree. They spread disease. Remove them during sanitation harvesting. Check your trees today and remove any mummified pods you find.


Instruction: What if I don't prune my cocoa trees?

Response: If you don't prune, your trees will be too dense and humid. This helps black pod disease spread. Do not skip pruning. Prune your trees after each harvest to allow light and air in. Start pruning this week.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don spoil. Wetin I no go do?

Response: Do not panic, my friend. First, remove and bury or burn the infected pods. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to reduce humidity. Start removing infected pods today.


Instruction: Is it good to use just any fungicide on cocoa?

Response: No, no! Do not use just any fungicide. Use copper-based ones like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. This week, get the right fungicide for your farm.


Instruction: Should I wait until all pods are ripe before harvesting?

Response: No, do not wait. Harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks. Overstay pods get infected easily. This week, harvest all ripe pods and remove any infected ones.


Instruction: What if I don't remove deadwood from my cocoa farm?

Response: If you don't remove deadwood, the disease will spread. Do not leave deadwood on the farm. Remove it during sanitation harvesting. Check your farm today and remove any deadwood you see.


Instruction: How does banana bunchy top virus spread from one plant to another?

Response: My friend, the virus spreads through banana aphids — tiny insects that carry it from sick plants to healthy ones. First thing first: check your plants regularly so you can spot and remove infected ones fast. This week, walk your farm and look for plants with short, stiff leaves and dark green streaks.


Instruction: My plantain leaves get short and stiff, den get yellow and brown spots. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this sounds like banana bunchy top virus. The thing is, once you see these signs, the plant is already a total loss. No need to panic, but act fast: chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Today, check all your plants and remove any with these symptoms.


Instruction: Can I treat banana bunchy top virus with chemicals?

Response: No, my friend, there is no cure for bunchy top. The only treatment is prevention: remove infected plants immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. This week, source certified clean suckers from disease-free places for your next planting.


Instruction: How do I stop banana bunchy top virus from spreading to my healthy plantain plants?

Response: The best way to stop spread is to remove infected plants fast. Chop them to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Also, keep your farm clean — remove weeds and debris where aphids can hide. Today, inspect your plants and remove any with bunchy top symptoms.


Instruction: What should I do if I find a plantain plant with dark green streaks on the leaves?

Response: Those dark green streaks are a sign of banana bunchy top virus. I tell you, there's no saving that plant. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This week, check all your plants and remove any with these signs.


Instruction: Can banana bunchy top virus survive in the soil?

Response: No, the virus doesn't stay in the soil. It spreads through banana aphids and lives inside infected plants. The only way to stop it is to remove sick plants and inject the stems. Today, walk your farm and look for plants with short, stiff leaves and dark green streaks.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain plants have banana bunchy top virus?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll also see dark green streaks and dots along the veins that turn yellow then brown. The plant will stop growing properly. If you see these signs, chop the plant down and inject the stem. This week, inspect your plants carefully.


Instruction: If I plant suckers from a farm with banana bunchy top, will my new farm get the virus?

Response: Yes, my friend, the virus travels inside the sucker even if you don't see signs. Never move suckers from a farm with bunchy top. Always plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Today, check your sucker source and make sure it's disease-free.


Instruction: What happens if I don't remove plantain plants with banana bunchy top virus?

Response: If you don't remove infected plants, the virus will keep spreading through banana aphids. Your whole farm could be lost. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem. This week, walk your farm and remove any sick plants.


Instruction: Can I save a plantain plant that has banana bunchy top virus?

Response: No, my friend, there is no saving a plant with bunchy top. The best thing is to remove it fast to stop the virus from spreading. Chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, check your plants and remove any with bunchy top symptoms.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are small and yellow with strange bunches. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It is very serious — the plants will not recover. First thing first, uproot and burn all infected plants immediately. This will stop the disease from spreading. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: How can I stop groundnut rosette disease from attacking my crop?

Response: Groundnut rosette is spread by tiny insects called aphids. The best way to stop it is to plant early at the very start of rains. This helps you avoid the big aphid populations that come later. Also use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series. Always treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Weed your farm well too — aphids love weeds.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and bushy. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal. It could be groundnut rosette disease. This disease makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. There is no cure — you must remove and burn infected plants immediately. Next season, plant early and use resistant varieties. Also treat your seeds with insecticide before planting.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut leaves turn yellow and bunch up?

Response: This could be groundnut rosette disease. It is a deadly virus spread by aphids. Infected plants will not recover — you must remove and burn them immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Always treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also keep your farm very clean of weeds.


Instruction: How should I space my groundnut plants?

Response: Space your groundnut plants at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows. This spacing helps the plants grow well and close the canopy to block weeds. Good spacing also helps the plants get enough sunlight and air. This week, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest groundnut?

Response: Harvest your groundnut before the heavy rains arrive. Wet pods can get aflatoxin, which is very dangerous. Also, dry the pods properly before storage. Moisture above 9 percent causes aflatoxin. This week, check the weather forecast and plan your harvest.


Instruction: Can I use too much nitrogen on groundnut?

Response: Yes, you can. Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen from the air. Too much nitrogen makes the plants grow lots of leaves but few pods. Use balanced fertilizer and follow the label instructions carefully. This week, check your fertilizer application rates.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut pods are dry enough for storage?

Response: Dry the pods properly before storage. Moisture above 9 percent causes aflatoxin, which is very dangerous. Check the pods — they should be hard and not bend easily. This week, dry your harvested pods under the sun for a few days.


Instruction: What type of soil is best for groundnut?

Response: Groundnut grows best in well-drained sandy loam soil. Waterlogged soil causes pod rot. If your soil is heavy or clayey, consider planting on ridges. This week, check your soil drainage and improve it if needed.


Instruction: How I go treat groundnut rosette disease?

Response: There is no cure for groundnut rosette disease. Once a plant is infected, it will not recover. You must remove and burn the infected plants immediately. To prevent this disease, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. This week, inspect your farm and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: My mango tree leaves have brown spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. It's a fungus that likes wet weather. The spots mean the fungus is already attacking your tree. First thing first, you must spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride. Follow the label instructions carefully. Do this at flowering time and every 10 days during rains. Also, clear all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the fungus. Do this today!


Instruction: Why my mango fruits get black spots after harvest?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit while it was on the tree. When the fruit ripens, the spots grow fast. To prevent this, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering. Handle fruits carefully when harvesting — no bruises or drops. Store them in a cool, dry place right away. Check your trees now and plan your next spray.


Instruction: How I go treat mango anthracnose na?

Response: First, you must spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride. Do this at flowering time, then every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Clear all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the fungus. Start spraying today if your tree is flowering. If not, prepare your spray for when it does.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. What is the cause?

Response: This is likely blossom blight from anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers and kills them before fruit can set. Spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation. Do this as soon as possible to save the next flowering.


Instruction: How can I stop my mangoes from rotting after picking?

Response: The thing is, the fungus was already in the fruit. To prevent this, handle fruits carefully when harvesting — no bruises or drops. Store them in a cool, dry place right away. Also, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering. This will protect the next harvest. Check your storage conditions today and make improvements if needed.


Instruction: What should I do to prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: First, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Clear all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the fungus. Avoid overhead irrigation. Start planning your spraying schedule now if the rainy season is coming.


Instruction: My mango tree has many dead branches. Is this anthracnose?

Response: Dead branches could be from anthracnose or other problems. Prune them off to improve air circulation. This helps prevent anthracnose. Also, clear all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the fungus. Spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Do the pruning today to help your tree.


Instruction: How do I know when to harvest my mangoes?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip of the fruit. This is the sign for most varieties. Handle fruits carefully when harvesting — no bruises or drops. Store them in a cool, dry place right away. Check your trees now and pick the ripe ones.


Instruction: Wetin I go do make my mangoes no spoil for ground?

Response: First, handle fruits carefully when harvesting — no bruises or drops. Store them in a cool, dry place right away. Also, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering. This will protect the next harvest. Check your storage conditions today and make improvements if needed.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage mango anthracnose?

Response: The best way is to spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Clear all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the fungus. Start your spraying schedule today if your tree is flowering.


Instruction: When should I do the pruning for my cocoa trees?

Response: My friend, prune your cocoa trees after each harvest. This lets light and air reach the canopy, which helps prevent black pod disease. First thing first, gather your tools and start pruning this week.


Instruction: Tell me the best time to plant new cocoa trees

Response: Don't plant new cocoa trees too late in the rainy season. The thing is, wet conditions help black pod disease spread fast. Plant early in the season for better results.


Instruction: How often I go spray my cocoa farm for black pod disease?

Response: During the rainy season, spray copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully, and start this routine now if you haven't already.


Instruction: When should I harvest my cocoa pods?

Response: Harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks. Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection for black pod disease. Check your trees today and pick any ripe pods you see.


Instruction: What time is best for sanitation harvesting?

Response: Do sanitation harvesting right after the main harvest. Remove diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood all at once. This helps stop the spread of black pod disease. Plan to do this soon after your next harvest.


Instruction: How often I go do mulching for my cocoa farm?

Response: Mulch the base of your cocoa trees regularly, especially after pruning. Use dead leaves to retain moisture and improve soil. Do this at least once a month during the dry season.


Instruction: When should I start treating my cocoa trees for black pod disease?

Response: Start treating your cocoa trees for black pod disease at the beginning of the rainy season. Apply copper-based fungicide every 2 to 3 weeks. Don't wait until you see the disease to start.


Instruction: Wetin time be best to prune my cocoa trees?

Response: Prune your cocoa trees after each harvest. This lets light and air reach the canopy, which helps prevent black pod disease. Gather your tools and start pruning this week.


Instruction: When should I remove infected pods from my cocoa trees?

Response: Remove infected pods as soon as you see them. Burry them deeply or burn them — never leave them on the ground. Do this every time you see new infections to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: How often should I check my cocoa trees for black pod disease?

Response: Check your cocoa trees at least once a week, especially during the rainy season. Look for brown or black rotting patches on the pods. If you see any, remove and dispose of them immediately.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are stiff and crowded at the top. What is this?

Response: Oh no, my friend, this sounds like bunchy top virus. The leaves get stiff and crowded because the plant is not growing properly. The thing is, there is no cure for this. First thing first, chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do this today before the virus spreads.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. Is this normal?

Response: No, my friend, this is not normal. Those dark green streaks are a sign of bunchy top virus. The leaves will turn yellow then brown. There is no treatment, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will stop the virus from spreading. Do not waste money on treatments that won't work.


Instruction: How much should I space my plantain suckers?

Response: Space your plantain suckers at 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows good airflow between plants and makes harvesting easier. It also helps prevent the spread of diseases like bunchy top virus. Start planting at the beginning of the rainy season for the best results.


Instruction: My plantain farm has bunchy top. Can I still use the suckers from there?

Response: No, my friend, never use suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Plant only certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. This is the only way to be sure you are starting with clean material.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaves turn yellow and brown?

Response: This is bunchy top virus, my friend. The leaves first get dark green streaks, then turn yellow and brown. There is no cure, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground so it cannot reshoot and keep hosting the virus. Do this today to protect your other plants.


Instruction: How can I save money on plantain farming?

Response: First, plant only certified clean suckers to avoid diseases like bunchy top. Space your plants well at 3 metres by 3 metres to allow airflow and ease harvesting. Mulch heavily to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Apply potassium-rich fertilizer, as plantain is a heavy feeder. These practices will help you save money in the long run.


Instruction: My plantain is not growing well. How I go treat am?

Response: Check your plant for dark green streaks or stiff, crowded leaves. If you see these, it is bunchy top virus and there is no treatment. Chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. If it is not bunchy top, ensure you are using potassium-rich fertilizer and mulching heavily. These will help your plantain grow better.


Instruction: Can I treat bunchy top virus with chemicals?

Response: No, my friend, there is no treatment for bunchy top virus. Do not waste your money on chemicals that won't work. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground and stops the virus from spreading. Act quickly to save your other plants.


Instruction: How many suckers should I keep per mat?

Response: Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. This is called desuckering and it helps your plantain grow better. Too many suckers compete for nutrients and weaken the plant. Do this regularly to ensure your plants are healthy and productive.


Instruction: What is the small black insect on my cowpea leaves?

Response: My friend, those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap and spread diseases. First thing first, remove the badly affected leaves and throw them far from your farm. Then mix neem oil with soap and spray on the plants. This will help control them.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and curling. What is the problem?

Response: The thing is, cowpea aphids cause this. They suck the sap and make the leaves yellow and curled. You must act fast. Spray garlic water or neem oil mixed with soap on your plants. This will help stop the aphids.


Instruction: How can I plant cowpea to avoid aphid problems?

Response: Plant cowpea early before the dry season when aphids are many. Also, mix cowpea with maize at 4 plants of maize to 1 plant of cowpea. This helps reduce aphid pressure. Avoid planting near farms already infested with aphids.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are small and not growing well. Why?

Response: Aphids might be sucking the sap from your plants. Check the leaves and stems for small black or brown insects. If you see them, remove the badly affected parts and spray neem oil mixed with soap. This will help your plants grow better.


Instruction: How do I know if aphids are attacking my cowpea?

Response: Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects on young shoots, flowers and pods. They cluster together. You might also see sticky honeydew on the leaves. If you see these signs, act fast to control the aphids before they spread.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have black mould. What is causing this?

Response: Aphids produce sticky honeydew which causes black sooty mould. First, control the aphids with neem oil spray or garlic spray. Then, gently wipe the mould off the leaves with a damp cloth. This will help your plants get more sunlight.


Instruction: How can I protect my cowpea from aphids without chemicals?

Response: Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic water on your plants. Also, protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and hoverflies. They feed on aphids. Plant early and intercrop with maize to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaves turn yellow and wilt?

Response: Aphids dey cause am. Dem suck the sap from your plants. Check for small black or brown insects on the leaves and stems. If you see dem, remove the badly affected parts and spray neem oil mixed with soap. This will help your plants.


Instruction: Can I use chemical sprays on my cowpea to control aphids?

Response: Only as a last resort. You can use imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray. But first, try neem oil or garlic spray. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and hoverflies.


Instruction: How can I stop aphids from spreading to my whole cowpea farm?

Response: Remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts immediately. This stops aphids from spreading. Also, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic water on the remaining plants. Do this early in the morning or late in the evening for best results.


Instruction: How can I plant cassava without spending too much money?

Response: My friend, first thing first — plant at the start of the rains so the seedlings get enough water for free. Space them 1 metre by 1 metre so you don't waste seeds and can weed easily. Use stems from healthy plants only to avoid diseases. Today, check your farm to see where you can plant without buying new land.


Instruction: My cassava leaves get yellow and green spots, what happen?

Response: Ah, this one is cassava mosaic disease. It is caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, once you see these spots, remove and destroy the plant immediately. Do not compost it. Today, check all your plants and remove any with these spots.


Instruction: How I go prevent cassava mosaic for my farm?

Response: To prevent cassava mosaic, use disease-free stems from healthy plants. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Today, check your stems and remove any with spots or curling leaves.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to control whiteflies on my cassava?

Response: The cheapest way is to use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. You can make neem spray by soaking neem seeds in water overnight and then spraying the mixture on your plants. Today, look for neem seeds or make your traps using yellow paper and glue.


Instruction: How can I improve my cassava yield without spending much?

Response: Space your plants 1 metre by 1 metre for good yield and ease of weeding. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Today, check your spacing and start weeding if you haven't already.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling, wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease. It is caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The leaves show yellow and green mosaic patterns, curling and distortion. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Today, check all your plants and remove any with these signs.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cassava in my area?

Response: The best time is at the start of the rainy season. This way, the seedlings get enough water for free. Today, check the weather forecast and plan your planting accordingly.


Instruction: How can I save money on cassava farming?

Response: Use disease-free stems from healthy plants to avoid diseases. Plant resistant varieties. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. Today, check your stems and start weeding if you haven't already.


Instruction: What should I do if my cassava plants have mosaic disease?

Response: Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Do not compost them. Use disease-free stems from healthy plants for your next planting. Today, check all your plants and remove any with mosaic disease.


Instruction: How can I make sure my cassava grows well without spending too much?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season. Space plants 1 metre by 1 metre. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. Mound the soil before planting. Use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties. Today, check your farm and start preparing the soil if you haven't already.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are short and stiff, crowded at the top of the plant. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like banana bunchy top virus. The leaves get short and crowded because the plant is not growing properly. The thing is, there is no cure for this disease. First thing first: chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do this today to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: Na so my plantain leaves dey look, short and stiff, with dark green lines on top. How I go treat am?

Response: I tell you, this is banana bunchy top virus. The dark green lines and stiff leaves are classic signs. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do not waste money on treatment — this is the only way to stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: What causes plantain leaves to turn yellow and brown along the veins?

Response: This is a bad sign, my friend. When the veins turn yellow then brown, it is banana bunchy top virus. The plant will never produce a bunch. The only thing to do is chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this immediately to protect your other plants.


Instruction: My plantain plant is not growing tall, and the leaves are crowded at the top. What is the problem?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The plant stops growing properly and the leaves become short and crowded. There is no cure, so you must act fast. Chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this today to prevent the virus from spreading.


Instruction: The leaves on my plantain plant are stiff and narrow, with dark green dots. What should I do?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The dark green dots and stiff leaves are clear signs. There is no treatment, so you must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: Why are the leaves on my plantain plant short and crowded at the top, with yellow edges?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The short, crowded leaves and yellow edges are classic symptoms. There is no cure, so you must act fast. Chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this today to protect your other plants.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are stiff and narrow, with dark green streaks. What is wrong?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The stiff, narrow leaves and dark green streaks are clear signs. There is no treatment, so you must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: The leaves on my plantain plant are short and crowded, with brown edges. What is happening?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The short, crowded leaves and brown edges are classic symptoms. There is no cure, so you must act fast. Chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this today to protect your other plants.


Instruction: Why are the leaves on my plantain plant stiff and narrow, with dark green dots and yellow edges?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The stiff, narrow leaves with dark green dots and yellow edges are clear signs. There is no treatment, so you must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain plant is not growing well, and the leaves are short and crowded at the top. What can I do?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The short, crowded leaves mean the plant is not growing properly. There is no cure, so you must act fast. Chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this today to prevent the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: Hello, how are you?

Response: Hello my friend! FarmBot is doing well, and I hope you are too. I can help you with your cocoa farming questions today.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, that sounds like black pod disease. It's caused by a fungus that loves wet and humid conditions. First thing first, remove those bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground, o.


Instruction: How can I stop black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: My friend, the thing is, this disease spreads very fast. You must prune your trees to let light and air in. Also, harvest your ripe pods every two weeks. Overstay pods are the biggest problem. This week, start pruning and harvesting regularly.


Instruction: Can I use any fungicide to treat black pod disease?

Response: Yes, but you need copper-based ones like Ridomil Gold or Nordox. Apply them every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully, o.


Instruction: What is the best time to establish a new cocoa farm?

Response: Don't start too late in the rainy season. Early planting gives your trees time to grow strong before the heavy rains come. If it's already late, wait for the next season.


Instruction: My cocoa trees are not getting enough light, what can I do?

Response: Prune your trees after each harvest. This lets light and air into the canopy. It also helps reduce the humidity that the black pod disease loves. Start pruning this week.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my cocoa pods?

Response: Harvest your ripe pods every two weeks. Overstay pods are the biggest source of black pod disease. This week, check your trees and pick all the ripe ones.


Instruction: What should I do with diseased pods and deadwood?

Response: Remove them all at once. This is called sanitation harvesting. Bury the diseased pods deeply or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground. Do this as soon as possible.


Instruction: Is it good to mulch the base of cocoa trees?

Response: Yes, mulching with dead leaves helps retain moisture and improves the soil. But make sure to remove any diseased material first. This week, gather some dead leaves and mulch your trees.


Instruction: Can black pod disease destroy my entire harvest?

Response: Yes, it can destroy up to one third of your harvest in a bad season if you don't manage it. Start by removing all diseased pods and pruning your trees. This will help a lot.


Instruction: My friend, my mango tree leaves have dark brown spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. It's a fungus that loves wet weather. First thing first, remove all the spotted leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. This will help stop the fungus from spreading. Also, avoid watering the leaves directly — only water at the base of the tree.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis black spot for my mango fruit?

Response: Ah, that black spot is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit while it was on the tree. It grows fast when the fruit ripens. To prevent this, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride when the flowers appear. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Handle the fruits very carefully when you harvest them — don't drop them or bruise them.


Instruction: I harvested my mangoes yesterday and today they are turning black. What is happening?

Response: This is mango anthracnose, a fungus that was already in the fruit but only shows after harvest. No need to panic, but you must be more careful next time. Harvest the fruits gently, don't drop them, and store them in a cool, dry place right away. Also, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering to prevent this.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose in my orchard?

Response: To prevent mango anthracnose, you need to keep your orchard clean and dry. Prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation — water only at the base of the tree. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango tree flowers are dying before fruiting. What should I do?

Response: This is likely mango anthracnose causing blossom blight. The fungus attacks the flowers and kills them before fruit can set. To stop this, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride as soon as the flowers appear. Repeat the spraying every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation and reduce humidity around the flowers.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: For most mango varieties, look for a slight colour change at the tip of the fruit. This is the sign that it's ready to harvest. Be very careful when you pick the fruits — don't drop them or bruise them, as wounds let the anthracnose fungus in. Handle them gently and store them in a cool, dry place immediately after harvest.


Instruction: What is the best way to prune my mango tree to prevent disease?

Response: Prune your mango tree after every harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. This helps reduce humidity around the leaves and flowers, which the anthracnose fungus loves. Also, remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly — they carry fungal spores. Avoid overhead irrigation, as it keeps the foliage wet for too long.


Instruction: Can I use any fungicide to treat mango anthracnose?

Response: Yes, but the best ones are mancozeb or copper oxychloride. Spray them at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, keep your orchard clean and dry — prune your trees, remove fallen leaves and fruits, and avoid overhead irrigation.


Instruction: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but turn black after two days. Why is this happening?

Response: This is mango anthracnose, a fungus that was already inside the fruit but only shows after harvest. The thing is, the fungus grows fast as the fruit ripens. To prevent this, handle the fruits very carefully when you harvest them — don't drop them or bruise them. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately. Also, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering to prevent the fungus from getting into the fruits.


Instruction: How can I store my mangoes to prevent them from turning black?

Response: To prevent your mangoes from turning black, handle them very carefully when you harvest them — don't drop them or bruise them, as wounds let the anthracnose fungus in. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately after harvest. Also, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering to prevent the fungus from getting into the fruits.


Instruction: What is mango anthracnose?

Response: My friend, mango anthracnose is a fungal disease that attacks leaves, flowers, and fruits. On leaves, it causes dark brown spots. On fruits, it creates dark sunken lesions that worsen after harvest. The fungus loves wet conditions. First thing first, remove fallen leaves and fruits from under your trees this week.


Instruction: How do I know if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: Check your leaves for dark brown irregular spots. On flowers, it causes blossom blight, killing them before fruit sets. On fruits, look for dark sunken lesions. The thing is, these lesions expand rapidly after harvest. Inspect your trees carefully today and remove any infected parts immediately.


Instruction: My mango fruit don spoil for market, wetin dey cause am?

Response: This could be anthracnose, my friend. The fungus enters the fruit and only shows itself after harvest. Handle fruits carefully during harvest and storage. Check your trees for dark spots or lesions and treat them promptly.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: Prune your trees after harvest to improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Start pruning and cleaning up fallen debris this week.


Instruction: When should I harvest my mangoes to avoid anthracnose?

Response: Harvest when you see a slight colour change at the tip. Handle fruits with extreme care — any bruises can let the fungus in. Do not drop the fruits, and store them in a cool dry place immediately after harvest.


Instruction: How do I treat mango anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your trees to improve air circulation and remove any infected parts. Start treating your trees this week.


Instruction: Why do my mangoes turn black after harvest?

Response: This is likely anthracnose, a fungal disease. The fungus was already inside the fruit but only shows itself as the fruit ripens. Handle fruits carefully during harvest and storage. Inspect your trees for signs of the disease and treat them promptly.


Instruction: Can I save my mango tree if it has anthracnose?

Response: Yes, you can. Prune the infected parts and spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Start treating your tree today.


Instruction: What is the best way to store mangoes to prevent anthracnose?

Response: Handle fruits with extreme care during harvest. Do not drop them, and store them in a cool dry place immediately. This will slow down the spread of the fungus. Check your storage conditions today and make adjustments if needed.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Start your spraying schedule this week to protect your trees.


Instruction: My friend, my cassava leaves are turning yellow and green with strange patterns. What is happening?

Response: This sounds like cassava mosaic disease, my friend. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First thing first, remove and destroy those infected plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading. Then, check your other plants carefully for any signs of the disease.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and looking funny. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this is cassava mosaic disease. The whitefly insect spreads this virus. The thing is, once you see these signs, you must act fast. Pull out the affected plants right away and destroy them. Do not compost them. Also, make sure to use disease-free stems for your next planting.


Instruction: I planted my cassava at the start of the rains, but now the leaves are deformed. What should I do?

Response: This is likely cassava mosaic disease. You need to remove and destroy the infected plants immediately to prevent the virus from spreading to healthy plants. Also, consider planting resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572 in your next planting.


Instruction: I see small whiteflies on my cassava plants. Are they harmful?

Response: Yes, those whiteflies can spread cassava mosaic disease. You need to control them. Try using neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm. Also, remove any infected plants right away to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My cassava plants are not growing well. The leaves are small and the stems are weak. What is wrong?

Response: This could be due to cassava mosaic disease. The virus makes the plants weak and stunted. First, remove and destroy the infected plants. Then, make sure to use healthy stems for your next planting. Also, consider using potassium fertilizer to help your plants grow stronger.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava. When is the best time?

Response: The best time to plant cassava is at the start of the rainy season. This helps the plants establish well. Also, make sure to space your plants 1 metre by 1 metre for good yield and easy weeding. And remember, always use disease-free stems.


Instruction: How can I prevent cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: First, always use disease-free stems from healthy plants. This is the most important rule. Also, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. And remember, do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic.


Instruction: My cassava tubers are small and deformed. What can I do?

Response: This could be due to cassava mosaic disease. The virus affects the tubers, making them small and deformed. First, remove and destroy the infected plants. Then, make sure to use healthy stems for your next planting. Also, consider mounding the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size.


Instruction: I see yellow and green patterns on my cassava leaves. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal. This is a sign of cassava mosaic disease. You need to act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading. Also, make sure to use disease-free stems for your next planting.


Instruction: My cassava plants are healthy, but I want to make sure they stay that way. What should I do?

Response: Good job on keeping your plants healthy! To keep them that way, make sure to control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Also, remove any infected plants immediately. And remember, always use disease-free stems for your next planting.


Instruction: How can I tell if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: My friend, check for ragged holes in leaves that look like windowpanes with light through them. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come out. Check 10-20 plants per field this week to be sure.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes, what is this?

Response: Those holes could be fall armyworm. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening to see the caterpillars. Check 10-20 plants per field to confirm.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is in my maize field?

Response: First thing first, look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field to be sure.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis ragged holes for my maize leaves?

Response: The thing is, those ragged holes could be fall armyworm. Check for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening to see the caterpillars. Check 10-20 plants per field to confirm.


Instruction: What are the signs of fall armyworm in maize?

Response: Look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field to be sure.


Instruction: How can I identify fall armyworm in my maize crop?

Response: Check for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field to be sure.


Instruction: My maize leaves have irregular holes, what is happening?

Response: Those irregular holes could be fall armyworm. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening to see the caterpillars. Check 10-20 plants per field to confirm.


Instruction: How do I spot fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: Look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field to be sure.


Instruction: What does fall armyworm damage look like on maize?

Response: Look for ragged holes in leaves that look like windowpanes with light through them. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field to be sure.


Instruction: How can I tell if my maize has fall armyworm?

Response: Check for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field to be sure.


Instruction: How I go know if my groundnut get rosette?

Response: My friend, check your plants well. If they stay small, look bushy, and the leaves turn yellow or have strange mottled patterns, that's rosette. No cure for this one — uproot and burn the plants immediately to save others.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: It could be groundnut rosette, a deadly virus spread by tiny aphids. The leaves stay small, yellow, and bunched up. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it's finished. Uproot and burn it quick to stop the disease spreading.


Instruction: What type of soil is best for groundnut farming?

Response: Groundnut loves well-drained sandy loam soil. If your soil holds too much water, the pods will rot. Check your farm today — if it's too wet, maybe plant elsewhere or improve drainage.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant groundnut?

Response: First thing first, plant at the very start of the rains. This helps your groundnut escape the worst aphid attacks that come later. Check your calendar and prepare your seeds this week.


Instruction: How should I space my groundnut plants?

Response: Space your plants 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows. This gives them room to grow and helps them cover the soil to stop weeds. Measure your spacing today before planting.


Instruction: Can I use too much nitrogen on groundnut?

Response: Yes, you can! Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen from the air. Too much nitrogen makes the plant grow lots of leaves but few pods. Check your fertilizer bags today and use only what's recommended.


Instruction: What should I do if I see aphids on my groundnut?

Response: Aphids spread the deadly rosette virus. Use insecticide seed treatment before planting to protect your crop. Check your seeds today and treat them if you haven't already.


Instruction: Why is weeding important for groundnut farming?

Response: Weeds hide aphids, which spread the rosette virus. Keep your farm clean by weeding well. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds you see.


Instruction: When should I harvest my groundnut?

Response: Harvest before the heavy rains come. Wet pods can get aflatoxin, which is very dangerous. Check the weather forecast this week and plan your harvest.


Instruction: How should I dry my groundnut before storage?

Response: Dry the pods properly until they're below 9 percent moisture. Too much moisture causes aflatoxin. Spread your pods in the sun today and turn them often for even drying.


Instruction: What can I do to stop my mango tree from getting sick?

Response: My friend, first thing first, you must prune your mango tree after harvest. Remove dead wood and keep air moving through the branches. Also, clear away fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry disease. Avoid wetting the leaves when you water, and harvest fruits carefully without bruising them. This week, check your tree and remove any dead branches you see.


Instruction: How can I prevent my mango fruits from rotting after picking?

Response: The thing is, mango anthracnose can hide inside the fruit before you even pick it. Handle fruits with care — no dropping or bruising. Store them in a cool, dry place right away. To stop the disease, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering and every 10 days in the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango tree leaves have brown spots, what is this?

Response: Those dark brown spots on your leaves are likely mango anthracnose, a fungal disease. It loves wet weather and warm temperatures. To stop it, prune your tree to improve air flow and clear away fallen leaves. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. This week, check your tree and remove any infected leaves you see.


Instruction: How I go prevent mango anthracnose for my tree?

Response: To prevent mango anthracnose, prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Clear away fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation and handle harvested fruits carefully. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. This week, check your tree and remove any dead branches.


Instruction: What causes mango flowers to die before fruiting?

Response: If your mango flowers are dying before fruit sets, it could be blossom blight caused by mango anthracnose. This fungus thrives in humid, rainy weather. To prevent it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation and clear away fallen leaves. This week, inspect your tree and remove any dead branches.


Instruction: Why my mango fruits spoil quickly after harvest?

Response: If your mangoes spoil quickly after harvest, it's likely mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit before you picked it. Handle fruits with extreme care — no bruising or dropping. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately. To prevent the disease, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. This week, check your tree and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: How can I keep my mango tree healthy?

Response: To keep your mango tree healthy, prune it after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Clear away fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation and handle harvested fruits carefully. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. This week, inspect your tree and remove any dead branches.


Instruction: My mango fruits don get black spots after harvest, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Those black spots on your mangoes after harvest are likely mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit before you picked it. Handle fruits with care — no bruising or dropping. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately. To prevent the disease, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. This week, check your tree and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: What should I do to stop my mango tree from getting sick?

Response: To stop your mango tree from getting sick, prune it after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Clear away fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation and handle harvested fruits carefully. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. This week, inspect your tree and remove any dead branches.


Instruction: How can I prevent my mango fruits from getting black spots?

Response: To prevent black spots on your mangoes, handle fruits with extreme care — no bruising or dropping. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately. To stop the disease, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation and clear away fallen leaves. This week, check your tree and remove any infected leaves you see.


Instruction: Farmer asks about when to plant groundnuts

Response: First thing first, plant your groundnuts right at the start of rains. This helps you escape the peak aphid populations that come later. The thing is, these aphids spread the deadly rosette virus. So plant early, my friend.


Instruction: Farmer asks in pidgin: 'when I go plant groundnut make e no spoil'

Response: My friend, plant your groundnuts at the very start of rains. This way you avoid the worst aphid attacks that come later. The thing is, these aphids spread the deadly rosette virus. So plant early, my friend.


Instruction: Farmer asks about the best time to harvest groundnuts

Response: Harvest your groundnuts before heavy rains arrive. Wet pods can get aflatoxin which is very dangerous. Wait until the leaves turn yellow but don't wait too long. Check by digging up a few plants to see if pods are mature.


Instruction: Farmer asks in pidgin: 'wetin dey cause my groundnut leaf turn yellow'

Response: That could be rosette virus, my friend. It's spread by tiny aphids. The leaves turn yellow and bunch up. There's no cure, so remove infected plants immediately. To prevent it, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: Farmer asks about when to apply fertilizer to groundnuts

Response: Groundnuts fix their own nitrogen, so don't apply too much nitrogen fertilizer. Focus on phosphorus and potassium at planting time. Too much nitrogen gives you leaves but not pods. This week, check your soil and apply what's needed.


Instruction: Farmer asks about the best time to weed groundnuts

Response: Weed your groundnuts early and often. Weeds host aphids which spread the deadly rosette virus. Weed at least twice before the canopy closes. This week, clear any weeds you see around your plants.


Instruction: Farmer asks about when to expect groundnut pods to mature

Response: Groundnut pods mature about 90-120 days after planting, depending on the variety. The leaves turn yellow when they're ready. This week, check a few plants by digging up to see if pods are mature.


Instruction: Farmer asks about when to treat groundnuts for pests

Response: Treat your groundnut seeds with insecticide before planting to control aphids. These aphids spread the deadly rosette virus. This week, if you see aphids, treat with insecticide following the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Farmer asks about when to dry groundnut pods after harvest

Response: Dry your groundnut pods properly before storage. Moisture above 9 percent causes aflatoxin which is very dangerous. Spread pods in a single layer under shade. This week, check your drying pods and turn them regularly.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have yellow and green patches with some curling. What is happening to my plants?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, it's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First thing first, check nearby plants — if you see more with the same problem, remove and destroy them immediately to stop the spread. Also, start looking for ways to control whiteflies in your farm.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cassava leaves to turn yellow and get curly?

Response: Ah, this is cassava mosaic disease. It's a virus spread by tiny whiteflies. The bad news is it can ruin your harvest if you don't act fast. The good news is you can control it. First, remove and destroy any infected plants right away. Then, look into using neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps to catch the whiteflies.


Instruction: I noticed some of my cassava plants have leaves with a mix of yellow and green patches. What disease is this?

Response: That's cassava mosaic disease, my friend. It's caused by a virus and spread by whiteflies. The leaves will curl and distort, and your tubers might not grow well. The most important thing to do now is remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Don't let the whiteflies spread it to healthy plants.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have strange patterns and are curling up. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is cassava mosaic disease. It's a virus that whiteflies spread. The patterns and curling are a sure sign. To stop it, remove and destroy the infected plants right away. Also, think about planting disease-resistant varieties next time, like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572.


Instruction: What is the problem if my cassava leaves have a mosaic pattern and are curling?

Response: That's cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus. Whiteflies spread it from plant to plant. The thing is, it can really hurt your harvest. First, remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Then, start controlling whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: Check your leaves, my friend. If you see yellow and green patches with curling and distortion, that's mosaic disease. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The best thing to do now is remove and destroy the infected plants right away. Don't let the whiteflies spread it further.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have a mix of yellow and green colors and are curling. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal. It's cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, it can ruin your harvest if you don't act fast. First, remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Then, start controlling whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps.


Instruction: What are the signs of cassava mosaic disease?

Response: The main signs are yellow and green patches on the leaves, along with curling and distortion. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The most important thing to do is remove and destroy the infected plants right away. Don't let the whiteflies spread it to healthy plants.


Instruction: How can I tell if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: Look at your leaves, my friend. If you see a mix of yellow and green patches with curling and distortion, that's mosaic disease. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The best thing to do now is remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Also, think about using neem sprays or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies.


Instruction: Wetin be the signs for cassava mosaic disease?

Response: Ah, the signs are yellow and green patches on the leaves, with some curling and distortion. It's a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, it can really hurt your harvest. First, remove and destroy the infected plants right away. Then, start controlling whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps.


Instruction: My friend, I see black spots on my mango leaves. Is this the same thing as what makes my mangoes rot after picking?

Response: My friend, yes, this is mango anthracnose. The black spots on leaves and the rot after harvest are caused by the same fungus. First thing first, go and prune your tree to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. This will help reduce the disease.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause mango anthracnose? How I go know if my mangoes get am?

Response: Mango anthracnose is caused by a fungus that loves wet weather. You will see dark brown spots on leaves, flowers may die before fruiting, and fruits will have dark sunken lesions that worsen after harvest. Check your tree today and look for these signs.


Instruction: How is mango anthracnose different from other mango diseases? What should I look for?

Response: Mango anthracnose is unique because it causes black spots on leaves, kills flowers, and makes fruits rot quickly after harvest. Other diseases may not affect all parts of the tree like this. Look for dark brown spots on leaves and sunken lesions on fruits to confirm it's anthracnose.


Instruction: I see black spots on my mango leaves and flowers are dying. Is this the same problem?

Response: Yes, my friend, it is the same problem. The fungus causing anthracnose attacks both leaves and flowers. Prune your tree to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. This will help reduce the spread of the disease.


Instruction: How can I tell if my mangoes have anthracnose before I harvest them?

Response: Look for dark sunken lesions on the fruits. These lesions will expand rapidly after harvest as the fruit ripens. The thing is, the disease was already inside the fruit while it was on the tree. Harvest carefully and store fruits in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: What is the difference between mango anthracnose and normal leaf spots?

Response: Mango anthracnose causes dark brown, irregular spots on leaves. Normal leaf spots are usually lighter and more uniform. If you see dark spots, it's likely anthracnose. Prune your tree to remove affected leaves and improve air circulation.


Instruction: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but turn black after 2 days. Why is this happening?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit while it was on the tree. The lesions expand rapidly after harvest as the fruit ripens. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care to avoid wounds and bruises. Store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: How does mango anthracnose compare to other fruit diseases in terms of speed?

Response: Mango anthracnose is very fast. The lesions on fruits can expand rapidly after harvest, turning the fruit black within 2 days. This is why it's crucial to handle and store fruits carefully. Check your tree today and look for signs of the disease.


Instruction: I see black spots on my mango leaves and my fruits are rotting quickly after harvest. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal. It is mango anthracnose. The fungus causes black spots on leaves and makes fruits rot quickly after harvest. Prune your tree to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. This will help reduce the spread of the disease.