Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose compared to other mango diseases?

Response: To prevent mango anthracnose, prune your tree after every harvest, remove fallen leaves and fruits, and avoid overhead irrigation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Start these practices today to protect your tree.


Instruction: How can I stop the whiteflies that are spreading cassava mosaic in my farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first — you must control those whiteflies. Spray neem-based sprays on your plants or put up yellow sticky traps around your farm. This will help catch the whiteflies before they spread the virus further. Today, go and check your local agro shop for neem spray.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don turn yellow and green, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, it's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. You must remove and destroy the infected plants immediately before the whiteflies spread it to the rest of your farm. Do this today, my friend.


Instruction: What should I do if I find cassava mosaic in my farm?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plants right away. Then, control the whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. And remember, never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic — the virus travels with the stem. Today, start by removing the infected plants.


Instruction: How can I prevent cassava mosaic disease in my new farm?

Response: The number one rule is to use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants only. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. And always control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. This week, make sure to get your planting stems from a trusted source.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and distorted, how I go treat am?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease. You must remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Then, control the whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. And remember, never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Today, start by removing the infected plants.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant cassava to avoid diseases?

Response: First thing first, use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants only. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. And always control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. This week, make sure to get your planting stems from a trusted source.


Instruction: How can I stop the spread of cassava mosaic in my farm?

Response: You must remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Then, control the whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. And remember, never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic — the virus travels with the stem. Today, start by removing the infected plants.


Instruction: What should I do if my cassava plants have mosaic patterns on the leaves?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease. You must remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Then, control the whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. And remember, never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Today, start by removing the infected plants.


Instruction: How can I protect my cassava from whiteflies and mosaic disease?

Response: First thing first, use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants only. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. And always control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. This week, make sure to get your planting stems from a trusted source.


Instruction: My cassava tubers are small and deformed, what can I do?

Response: This could be due to cassava mosaic disease. You must remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Then, control the whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. And remember, never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Today, start by removing the infected plants.


Instruction: my friend, my cassava leaf don turn yellow and green like mosaic. wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, a tiny whitefly spreads this virus from plant to plant. First thing first, uproot those infected plants now and burn them. Don't leave them in the field. Then check your other plants carefully. If you see more, remove them too. Next week, spray neem leaves boiled in water on the remaining plants to keep whiteflies away.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava but I don't have much money. How can I do it cheaply?

Response: My friend, cassava is actually one of the cheapest crops to grow. The most important thing is to get disease-free stems from a healthy farm. This will save you money in the long run. Plant them at the start of the rains when the soil is moist. Space them 1 metre apart so you can weed easily by hand. After 3 months, the cassava will shade out most weeds. No need to buy expensive fertilizer — cassava grows well even in poor soil.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava stems are infected with mosaic disease?

Response: Check the leaves carefully. If you see yellow and green patches mixed together like a mosaic, or if the leaves are curling and deformed, that plant has mosaic disease. Even if only one leaf shows these signs, the whole plant is infected. Uproot and burn it immediately before the whiteflies spread the virus to your other plants. Always get your stems from a healthy farm to avoid this problem.


Instruction: What is the best way to control whiteflies on my cassava farm?

Response: Whiteflies spread the mosaic virus, so you must control them. The cheapest way is to make a spray from neem leaves. Boil the leaves in water, let it cool, then spray it on your plants. You can also make yellow sticky traps from old paper or cardboard coated with grease. Hang them around your farm to catch the whiteflies. Check and replace the traps every week. Most importantly, remove any infected plants immediately to break the cycle.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava but I don't have much space. What should I do?

Response: Even with little space, you can still grow cassava. The key is to space your plants properly. Plant them 1 metre apart in both directions. This gives each plant enough room to grow and makes weeding easier. After 3 months, the cassava leaves will shade out most weeds, so you won't have to weed much. Just make sure to weed regularly in the first few months to keep the soil healthy.


Instruction: How can I make sure my cassava grows well without spending much money?

Response: Cassava is a very hardy crop. The most important thing is to plant disease-free stems. Get them from a healthy farm to avoid mosaic disease. Plant at the start of the rains so the stems establish well. Space them 1 metre apart for easy weeding. After 3 months, the cassava will shade out most weeds. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. You don't need expensive fertilizer — cassava grows well even in poor soil.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and have yellow spots. What should I do?

Response: Those are signs of cassava mosaic disease. The virus is spread by whiteflies. First, uproot and burn the infected plants immediately. Do not leave them in the field. Then check your other plants carefully. If you see more with these signs, remove them too. Next, make a neem leaf spray to control the whiteflies. Boil neem leaves in water, let it cool, then spray it on your plants. This will help protect the healthy plants.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cassava?

Response: The best time to plant cassava is at the start of the rainy season. This way, the stems will establish well with plenty of moisture. Make sure to get disease-free stems from a healthy farm. Space them 1 metre apart for good growth and easy weeding. After 3 months, the cassava will shade out most weeds. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size.


Instruction: How do I know which cassava variety to plant?

Response: If you want to avoid mosaic disease, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. These varieties are bred to resist the virus. Always get your stems from a healthy farm to ensure they are disease-free. Plant them at the start of the rains and space them 1 metre apart. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, the cassava will shade out most weeds.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava but I don't have much money for fertilizer. What can I do?

Response: No need to worry, my friend. Cassava grows well even in poor soil. The most important thing is to get disease-free stems from a healthy farm. Plant them at the start of the rains and space them 1 metre apart. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, the cassava will shade out most weeds. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. You don't need expensive fertilizer for cassava to grow well.


Instruction: How can I stop aphids from attacking my cowpea?

Response: My friend, first thing first — plant your cowpea early in the season before the aphids get too many. Also, mix it with maize at 4 plants of maize to 1 plant of cowpea. This will confuse the aphids and reduce their numbers. Check your plants often and if you see any aphids, remove those parts quickly before they spread.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause cowpea leaf curl?

Response: Leaf curl in cowpea is often from aphids. These tiny black or brown insects suck the sap from your plants, making the leaves curl and turn yellow. They also leave a sticky mess that can block sunlight. To stop them, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray on your plants. Check your farm today and remove any bad parts.


Instruction: What can I do to keep aphids away from my cowpea?

Response: To keep aphids away, plant your cowpea early and mix it with maize. Also, don’t plant next to a farm that already has aphids. If you see any aphids, remove those parts quickly. You can also spray neem oil or garlic spray to control them. Check your farm this week and take action if you see any signs.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting, what could be the problem?

Response: Wilting in cowpea can be from aphids. These small black or brown insects suck the sap from your plants, causing them to wilt and grow poorly. They also spread diseases. To stop them, remove any bad parts and spray neem oil or garlic spray. Check your plants today and take action if you see any aphids.


Instruction: How can I protect my cowpea from pests?

Response: To protect your cowpea from pests like aphids, plant early and mix with maize. Avoid planting near infested farms. If you see any aphids, remove those parts quickly. You can also spray neem oil or garlic spray. Check your farm this week and take action if you see any signs of pests.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent aphids in cowpea?

Response: The best way to prevent aphids is to plant your cowpea early and mix it with maize. Also, don’t plant next to a farm that already has aphids. If you see any aphids, remove those parts quickly. You can also spray neem oil or garlic spray. Check your farm today and take action if you see any signs.


Instruction: How can I stop my cowpea from getting diseases?

Response: To stop your cowpea from getting diseases, plant early and mix with maize. Avoid planting near infested farms. If you see any aphids, remove those parts quickly. You can also spray neem oil or garlic spray. Check your farm this week and take action if you see any signs of pests or diseases.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow, what should I do?

Response: Yellow leaves in cowpea can be from aphids. These small black or brown insects suck the sap from your plants, making the leaves turn yellow. To stop them, remove any bad parts and spray neem oil or garlic spray. Check your farm today and take action if you see any aphids.


Instruction: What can I do to keep my cowpea healthy?

Response: To keep your cowpea healthy, plant early and mix with maize. Avoid planting next to infested farms. If you see any aphids, remove those parts quickly. You can also spray neem oil or garlic spray. Check your farm this week and take action if you see any signs of pests.


Instruction: How can I prevent pests in my cowpea farm?

Response: To prevent pests in your cowpea farm, plant early and mix with maize. Avoid planting next to infested farms. If you see any aphids, remove those parts quickly. You can also spray neem oil or garlic spray. Check your farm today and take action if you see any signs of pests.


Instruction: My mango leaves have dark brown spots. What is happening?

Response: My friend, those spots are signs of mango anthracnose, a fungal disease. The fungus loves wet weather. First thing first, remove all the infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to pick?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip of the mango. That's the sign for most varieties. Handle them carefully when picking — any bruises can let disease in. Once picked, store them in a cool dry place right away.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. What is the problem?

Response: This is blossom blight caused by anthracnose fungus. It attacks flowers in wet weather. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage. Follow the label instructions carefully and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: Why do my mangoes turn black 2 days after harvest?

Response: The fungus was already inside the fruit. Anthracnose causes dark sunken lesions that expand as the fruit ripens. To prevent this, spray fungicide during flowering and handle fruits carefully when harvesting. No need to panic, just be more careful next time.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose in my orchard?

Response: Prune your trees after harvest to improve air circulation. Remove dead wood and fallen leaves regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation — it keeps leaves wet too long. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days in rainy weather.


Instruction: My mangoes are getting black spots before harvest. What can I do?

Response: Those spots are anthracnose. The fungus spreads in wet weather. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, remove any infected fruits and fallen leaves from the ground.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango leaf don get brown spot?

Response: Na mango anthracnose cause am. Na fungal disease wey dey spread for wet weather. First thing first, remove all the leaves wey get spots and any fallen fruits from the ground. Dis one go help stop the disease from spread more.


Instruction: How I go treat mango blossom blight?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage. Follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat the spraying every 10 days during rainy season. Also, prune your trees after harvest to improve air circulation.


Instruction: Why my mango fruits get black lesions after harvest?

Response: Na anthracnose fungus cause am. The disease don already dey for the fruit before you pick am. To prevent this, spray fungicide during flowering and handle fruits carefully when harvesting. Store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: How can I stop mango anthracnose in my farm?

Response: Prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Do these things and you will see improvement.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and sticky. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cowpea aphids. They suck sap and leave a sticky honeydew that causes black mould. First thing first, check the undersides of leaves and stems for small black or brown insects. If you find them, act fast before they spread.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from attacking my farm?

Response: The thing is, you need to plant early before the dry season when aphids are worst. Also, intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. This will reduce aphid pressure. Avoid planting near infested farms, especially downwind.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are weak and not growing well. What can I do?

Response: This could be aphids. They suck nutrients and spread viruses. Check for small black insects on young shoots and pods. If you see them, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Remove badly affected parts and destroy them.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaves to curl and wilt?

Response: This is likely cowpea aphids. They suck plant sap and cause stunting, leaf curl and wilting. Look for small black or brown insects on your plants. If you find them, treat immediately with neem oil or garlic spray.


Instruction: How can I control cowpea aphids without chemicals?

Response: You can use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and parasitic wasps. They feed on aphids. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: My cowpea farm has black mould on leaves. What is the cause?

Response: This is likely from cowpea aphids. They produce sticky honeydew that causes black sooty mould. Check for small black or brown insects on your plants. If you find them, treat with neem oil or garlic spray.


Instruction: How do I know if my cowpea has aphids?

Response: Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects on young shoots, flowers and pods. They cause stunted growth, leaf curl, yellowing and wilting. If you see them, act fast to prevent virus spread.


Instruction: Can cowpea aphids spread diseases?

Response: Yes, they spread over 30 plant viruses. Even a small infestation is dangerous. Check your plants regularly and treat immediately if you find aphids. Use neem oil or garlic spray.


Instruction: Is there a chemical I can use for cowpea aphids?

Response: As a last resort, you can use imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray. But first try neem oil or garlic spray. Always follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I improve soil fertility after growing cowpea?

Response: Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, so it improves fertility for the next crop. After harvest, plant a nitrogen-loving crop like maize to benefit from the improved soil.


Instruction: What is the difference between fall armyworm damage and normal leaf damage from wind or animals?

Response: My friend, fall armyworm damage looks like ragged holes with clear edges, like windowpanes with light shining through. You'll also find wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Wind or animal damage usually looks more random. Check your maize early morning or evening to spot the caterpillars. If you see those signs, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it to the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: How does intercropping with beans help against fall armyworm compared to planting maize alone?

Response: The thing is, when you plant maize with beans or soybean, the fall armyworm finds it harder to spread. The beans confuse the moths and reduce their egg-laying. So, if you haven't intercropped yet, this planting season, try mixing some beans with your maize. It's a simple way to protect your crop.


Instruction: Which is better for fall armyworm control: neem spray or chemical pesticides?

Response: Neem spray works well on young caterpillars, especially in the first two weeks of infestation. But if the infestation is bad, you might need stronger chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos. Always follow the label instructions carefully. First, scout your field early morning or evening to check the infestation level. Then decide what to use.


Instruction: Why is it important to harvest maize promptly when it's dry?

Response: Harvesting maize when it's dry helps avoid weevils and other pests in storage. The thing is, if you leave it too long, the weevils will find it and start damaging your harvest. So, keep an eye on your maize and harvest it as soon as it's dry. This way, you'll keep your maize safe from pests.


Instruction: What's the difference between applying nitrogen fertilizer all at once and splitting it?

Response: Applying nitrogen fertilizer in two splits gives your maize steady growth. If you put it all at once, the plant might grow too fast and become weak. So, put half at planting and the other half when the maize reaches knee height. This way, your maize will grow strong and healthy.


Instruction: How does fall armyworm spread so fast in warm weather?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads quickly because one female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs. In warm weather, the eggs hatch faster, and the caterpillars start feeding. So, scout your field early morning or evening to catch them early. If you see signs, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it to the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize don spoil, how I go know wetin dey cause am?

Response: First thing first, check for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see those signs, it's fall armyworm. Scout your field early morning or evening to confirm. If it's fall armyworm, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it to the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: Which is more effective: planting maize at the right time or using pesticides for fall armyworm?

Response: Planting maize at the right time helps avoid peak moth migration season, so it's a good first step. But if you already have fall armyworm, you might need pesticides. Scout your field early morning or evening to check the infestation level. If it's bad, use chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos, but always follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How does spacing maize properly help prevent fall armyworm compared to crowded planting?

Response: Spacing maize properly helps air circulate better, making it harder for fall armyworm to spread. Crowded planting gives the caterpillars more hiding places. So, space your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. This way, you'll make it harder for fall armyworm to attack your crop.


Instruction: What's the difference between fall armyworm and other caterpillars that attack maize?

Response: Fall armyworm caterpillars hide deep inside the maize whorl and feed mostly at night. They leave ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Other caterpillars might feed on the leaves but don't hide as much. Scout your field early morning or evening to spot the caterpillars. If it's fall armyworm, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it to the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: Greet the user and explain FarmBot's purpose

Response: Hello my friend! FarmBot is here to help you grow healthy crops. I can help you with rice farming and other crops like maize, cassava and more.


Instruction: Identify a disease from symptoms

Response: My friend, what you describing sounds like rice blast. Look for diamond-shaped spots with grey centers and brown edges on the leaves. If the stalks are falling over, that's the worst kind called neck blast.


Instruction: Explain how to prevent rice blast

Response: First thing first, don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and maintain steady water levels in your paddy. Also, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. This week, check your field for proper water levels and spacing.


Instruction: Ask how to treat rice blast in pidgin

Response: My friend, when you see those spots on your rice leaves, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away. For neck blast, spray at boot stage before the panicle comes out. Follow the label instructions carefully and check your field today to see if you need to spray.


Instruction: Explain the importance of proper water levels

Response: The thing is, rice blast loves cool nights and wet leaves. Keep your paddy field flooded evenly. Don't let it dry out and then flood again. Steady water helps control the disease. This week, check your field's water levels and adjust if needed.


Instruction: Ask about resistant varieties in pidgin

Response: Yes o, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. They stand strong against blast disease. This week, if you planning to plant new rice, get these seeds from your local agri-input shop.


Instruction: Explain the dangers of over-fertilizing

Response: Too much nitrogen fertilizer is like feeding the blast fungus directly. It makes the disease worse. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and follow the recommended dose. This week, check your fertilizer bags to make sure you're not over-applying nitrogen.


Instruction: Ask how to manage crop residues

Response: My friend, burn the rice straw after harvest. This destroys the fungal spores that survive in the crop residues. This week, if you have leftover straw, clear and burn it properly.


Instruction: Explain the timing of fungicide application

Response: Timing is everything with neck blast. Spray fungicide at boot stage, before the panicle emerges. For leaf blast, spray at first sign of lesions. Follow the label instructions carefully and check your field this week to see if it's time to spray.


Instruction: Ask about the impact of rice blast

Response: Rice blast can reduce your grain yield by 70 to 80 percent in bad years. Don't let it ruin your harvest. This week, inspect your field for early signs of disease and take action immediately if you see any spots.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomato plants have blight?

Response: My friend, check your lower leaves first. Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow edges. Late blight looks like wet, grey-green patches that turn brown fast. If you see this, act quick — remove those leaves and burn them right away. Don't compost them, no.


Instruction: What can I do to stop blight from spreading in my tomato farm?

Response: First thing first, keep your farm dry. Water only at the base, not on the leaves. Remove any sick leaves immediately and burn them. Spray fungicide like mancozeb every week during rainy season. Also, rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same spot two years running. Try maize or cowpea next season.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: Could be blight, my friend. Check your leaves for dark spots or wet-looking patches. Blight spreads fast when it's wet and cool. The thing is, you must act quick. Remove the bad leaves and burn them. Spray fungicide every week in rainy season. Also, make sure your plants have good airflow by spacing them well.


Instruction: How can I plant tomatoes to avoid blight?

Response: Plant on raised beds or ridges so water drains well. Space your plants at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows for good airflow. Stake or cage them at 30 cm height to keep fruits off the ground. Rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same spot every year. This week, check your farm and adjust spacing if needed.


Instruction: What should I do if I see dark spots on my tomato leaves?

Response: Those could be signs of early blight. Remove those leaves immediately and burn them — don't compost. Spray fungicide like chlorothalonil every week during rainy season. Also, water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. This keeps the foliage dry and healthy.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my tomatoes to prevent disease?

Response: Harvest every 2 to 3 days, my friend. Leaving ripe fruits on the plant too long attracts pests and disease. Check your farm daily and pick the ripe ones. This keeps your plants healthy and your harvest safe.


Instruction: What fertilizer should I use for my tomato plants?

Response: Use balanced NPK fertilizer at planting. When the flowers come, top-dress with calcium nitrate. This gives your plants the nutrients they need to grow strong. Check your farm this week and apply fertilizer if you haven't already.


Instruction: My tomato leaves get wet when I water. Is this bad?

Response: Yes, my friend, it is bad. Wet leaves invite blight. Water only at the base of the plants. This keeps the foliage dry and reduces disease. Adjust your watering method this week to avoid wetting the leaves.


Instruction: Can I compost tomato leaves with blight spots?

Response: No, no, no! Never compost infected leaves. Burn them instead. Blight spreads very fast, and you don't want to risk infecting your whole farm. Remove and burn any sick leaves immediately. This keeps your farm safe and healthy.


Instruction: What can I plant after tomato to prevent blight?

Response: Plant maize or cowpea next season. Rotating crops helps stop blight from coming back. Plan your next crop this week. Choose a good rotation to keep your farm healthy.


Instruction: What's the difference between early blight and late blight on tomato?

Response: My friend, early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves you find.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomato has early blight or late blight?

Response: Look closely, my friend. Early blight starts with dark brown spots with rings on lower leaves. Late blight shows big water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both love wet weather. Check your plants now and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: Why early blight and late blight different?

Response: Early blight gives you dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes big water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: What makes early blight and late blight spread so fast?

Response: Wet, cool and humid weather makes both blights spread like fire. A week of rain can wipe out your whole farm. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves you see.


Instruction: How can I stop early blight and late blight from spreading?

Response: First thing first, remove and destroy any infected leaves or plant parts at first sign. Bag them and burn, don't compost. Spray mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Water at the base of plants to keep foliage dry. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: What's the best way to prevent early blight and late blight?

Response: Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea. Plant on raised beds for good drainage. Spray mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days in rainy season. Water at the base, not overhead. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: Why planting tomato same place every year bad?

Response: Because blight spores stay in the soil. Never plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. Rotate with maize or cowpea. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves you see.


Instruction: How spacing and staking help with blight?

Response: Good spacing and staking improve airflow and keep fruits off the ground. Space at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. Stake or cage plants at 30 cm height. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: What's better for blight prevention: overhead watering or base watering?

Response: Base watering is better. Overhead watering wets the leaves and spreads blight fast. Always water at the base of plants to keep foliage dry. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves you find.


Instruction: How can I tell if my tomato has blight or just normal leaf spots?

Response: Blight spots are usually bigger and spread fast. Early blight has rings and yellow halo. Late blight has water-soaked grey-green patches. Check your plants now and remove any bad leaves you see.


Instruction: How can I tell if my tomato plants have early blight or late blight?

Response: My friend, early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on lower leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked greyish-green patches that turn brown fast. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves you find.


Instruction: Which is worse for tomatoes, early blight or late blight?

Response: Late blight is more dangerous — it can destroy your whole farm in days during wet weather. Early blight spreads slower but still damages plants. First thing first, remove and burn any infected leaves today.


Instruction: Why does blight spread faster in wet weather?

Response: Blight loves wet, cool and humid conditions. The thing is, wet leaves stay wet longer and spores spread easily. Avoid overhead watering and always water at the base of your plants.


Instruction: How is early blight different from late blight in tomatoes?

Response: Early blight starts with dark brown spots with rings on older leaves. Late blight causes big water-soaked patches that turn brown fast. Check your plants now and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: Which blight disease attacks tomatoes first, early or late?

Response: Early blight usually comes first, starting on lower leaves. Late blight can come anytime but spreads faster. Remove any infected leaves you see and burn them.


Instruction: How come my tomato plants get blight every rainy season?

Response: Blight spreads fast in wet, cool weather. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season. Also, spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: If your tomatoes have brown spots or patches, it could be early or late blight. Check the leaves — early blight has rings, late blight has big water-soaked spots. Remove bad leaves and burn them.


Instruction: What should I do if I see blight on my tomato plants?

Response: Remove and burn any infected leaves or plants immediately. Do not compost them. Spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop blight from spreading in my tomato farm?

Response: Remove and burn infected leaves right away. Spray fungicide every week in rainy season. Water at the base of plants, not overhead. Rotate your tomato plot next season.


Instruction: Which blight disease kills tomato plants faster, early or late?

Response: Late blight kills plants faster, especially in wet weather. It can destroy your whole farm in days. Check your plants now and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey spots with brown edges. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. It's caused by a fungus and can be very destructive. First thing first, don't panic. You need to act fast to save your crop. Spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide right away and follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check if you've been using too much nitrogen fertilizer — cut back if you have been.


Instruction: How I go treat rice blast for my farm?

Response: To treat rice blast, first spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide as soon as you see those diamond-shaped spots on the leaves. For neck blast, spray at boot stage before the panicle comes out. Also, make sure you're not overcrowding your seedlings when transplanting. Proper spacing helps reduce disease pressure. And remember, don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — it feeds the fungus directly.


Instruction: My rice stalks are falling over. What is the problem?

Response: This is called neck blast, and it's the most damaging form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to fall over. To prevent this, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything, so don't delay. Also, consider planting blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or the NERICA series.


Instruction: What causes rice blast and how can I stop it?

Response: Rice blast is caused by a fungus called Magnaporthe oryzae. It thrives in cool nights, high humidity, and heavy dew. To stop it, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — don't let it dry out and flood alternately. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. And most importantly, don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — it feeds the fungus directly.


Instruction: My rice leaves have spindle-shaped lesions. What is this and how I go treat am?

Response: Those spindle-shaped lesions are a sign of rice blast disease. To treat it, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide right away and follow the label instructions carefully. Also, make sure you're not overcrowding your seedlings when transplanting. Proper spacing helps reduce disease pressure. And remember, don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — it feeds the fungus directly.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast in my farm?

Response: To prevent rice blast, first, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — don't let it dry out and flood alternately. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or the NERICA series. And most importantly, use balanced NPK fertilizer and never exceed the recommended nitrogen dose.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage rice blast disease?

Response: The best way to manage rice blast disease is to act fast. Spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. For neck blast, spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and don't overcrowd your seedlings. And remember, don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — it feeds the fungus directly.


Instruction: My rice plants have grey centres with brown edges on the leaves. What is this and how I go treat?

Response: This sounds like rice blast disease. To treat it, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide right away and follow the label instructions carefully. Also, make sure you're not overcrowding your seedlings when transplanting. Proper spacing helps reduce disease pressure. And remember, don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — it feeds the fungus directly.


Instruction: How can I stop my rice stalks from falling over?

Response: Your rice stalks falling over is a sign of neck blast, the most damaging form of rice blast disease. To stop this, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything, so don't delay. Also, consider planting blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or the NERICA series.


Instruction: What should I do if I see diamond-shaped spots on my rice leaves?

Response: Those diamond-shaped spots are a sign of rice blast disease. First thing first, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide right away and follow the label instructions carefully. Also, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and don't overcrowd your seedlings. And remember, don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — it feeds the fungus directly. Act fast to save your crop.


Instruction: Compare rice blast to other common rice diseases.

Response: My friend, rice blast is worse than most rice diseases. It can destroy up to 80% of your harvest if not controlled. Other diseases like bacterial blight or sheath blight may damage leaves or stems, but blast attacks both leaves and the neck of the plant. The thing is, blast spreads quickly in cool, wet weather. Check your field now for small diamond-shaped spots on leaves — that's the first sign.


Instruction: How is leaf blast different from neck blast?

Response: Leaf blast shows up as small diamond-shaped spots with grey centers and brown edges. Neck blast attacks the stem near the grain head, causing it to fall over. The thing is, neck blast is more dangerous because it ruins the whole grain. First thing first, inspect your plants carefully. If you see leaf spots, spray fungicide immediately to stop it from spreading to the neck.


Instruction: Why is rice blast worse than other rice diseases?

Response: Rice blast is worse because it can destroy up to 80% of your harvest in bad years. Other diseases like bacterial blight or sheath blight may damage leaves or stems, but blast attacks both leaves and the neck of the plant. The thing is, blast spreads quickly in cool, wet weather. Check your field now for small diamond-shaped spots on leaves — that's the first sign.


Instruction: How does rice blast spread compared to other diseases?

Response: Rice blast spreads faster than most other rice diseases because the fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. It can jump from leaf to leaf and even attack the neck of the plant. Other diseases may stay on the leaves or stems. The thing is, blast can destroy your whole field if you don't act fast. Look for small diamond-shaped spots on leaves and spray fungicide immediately if you see them.


Instruction: What makes rice blast different from other diseases?

Response: Rice blast is different because it attacks both leaves and the neck of the plant. Other diseases like bacterial blight or sheath blight may damage leaves or stems, but blast can ruin the whole grain if it attacks the neck. The thing is, blast spreads quickly in cool, wet weather. Check your field now for small diamond-shaped spots on leaves — that's the first sign.


Instruction: Rice blast don dey attack my farm, how I go know if na leaf blast or neck blast?

Response: My friend, leaf blast show small diamond-shaped spots with grey center and brown edges on the leaves. Neck blast attack the stem near the grain head, make am fall down. The thing is, neck blast worse pass leaf blast because e go spoil your grain. First thing first, check your plants well. If you see leaf spots, spray fungicide now to stop am from reach the neck.


Instruction: How is rice blast similar to other fungal diseases?

Response: Rice blast is similar to other fungal diseases because it thrives in cool, wet conditions. Just like other fungi, it spreads through spores that can survive in crop residues. The thing is, blast is more aggressive and can destroy your whole field if not controlled. Burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy the spores. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series.


Instruction: What is the main difference between rice blast and bacterial blight?

Response: The main difference is that rice blast is caused by a fungus, while bacterial blight is caused by bacteria. Blast shows diamond-shaped spots with grey centers and brown edges. Bacterial blight causes long, wavy lesions. The thing is, blast is more destructive and can ruin your whole harvest. Check your field now for small diamond-shaped spots on leaves and spray fungicide if you see them.


Instruction: How does rice blast compare to sheath blight?

Response: Rice blast is worse than sheath blight because it can attack both leaves and the neck of the plant. Sheath blight usually stays on the lower part of the plant. The thing is, blast can destroy up to 80% of your harvest in bad years. Look for small diamond-shaped spots on leaves and spray fungicide immediately if you see them. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57.


Instruction: Why rice blast more dangerous for my rice than other diseases?

Response: Rice blast more dangerous because e fit destroy up to 80% of your harvest. Other diseases like bacterial blight or sheath blight may damage leaves or stems, but blast attack both leaves and the neck of the plant. The thing is, blast spread fast for cool, wet weather. Check your field now for small diamond-shaped spots on leaves — that's the first sign. If you see am, spray fungicide immediately.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey spots with brown edges. What do I do?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. First thing first, stop using too much nitrogen fertilizer. That only makes the fungus stronger. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check if you have blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. This week, burn your rice straw after harvest to stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice plant fall down for ground?

Response: Ah, this is neck blast, a bad one. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk. You must spray fungicide at boot stage next time, before the panicle comes out. Timing is everything. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57. This week, burn the rice straw to kill the fungus spores.


Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from destroying my farm?

Response: Rice blast loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. Stop over-fertilizing, my friend. Use balanced NPK fertilizer. Plant resistant varieties like NERICA. Keep water levels steady in your paddy—no drying and flooding again and again. This week, check your fields for early signs of leaf lesions and spray fungicide if you see any.


Instruction: My rice stalks are falling over. How do I treat this?

Response: This is neck blast, very dangerous. Next season, spray fungicide at boot stage to prevent it. For now, cut and burn the affected plants. Do not leave them in the field. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52. This week, check your fertilizer use—too much nitrogen feeds the fungus.


Instruction: What should I do if my rice leaves have diamond-shaped spots?

Response: Those spots are rice blast, a very bad disease. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57. This week, burn your rice straw after harvest to stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: How do I prevent rice blast in my paddy?

Response: Rice blast thrives in cool, humid weather and too much nitrogen. Use balanced NPK fertilizer, not too much nitrogen. Plant resistant varieties like NERICA. Keep water levels steady—no drying and flooding. This week, check your fields for early signs of leaf lesions and spray fungicide if you see any.


Instruction: My rice plants are weak and falling. How do I fix this?

Response: This is neck blast, a very bad problem. Next time, spray fungicide at boot stage before the panicle comes out. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52. This week, burn the affected plants and the rice straw to kill the fungus spores.


Instruction: Wetin I go do make my rice no go fall for ground?

Response: Ah, you must prevent neck blast. Spray fungicide at boot stage, before the panicle comes out. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like NERICA. This week, check your fertilizer use—too much nitrogen feeds the fungus.


Instruction: How can I save my rice from this leaf disease?

Response: This is rice blast. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57. This week, burn your rice straw after harvest to stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: What is the best way to treat rice blast?

Response: First, stop using too much nitrogen fertilizer. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Follow the label instructions carefully. Plant blast-resistant varieties like NERICA. This week, burn your rice straw after harvest to kill the fungus spores.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: My friend, check your maize leaves for ragged holes that look like windowpanes. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Check 10-20 plants per field. If you see these signs, act fast.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis small holes for my maize leaves?

Response: Ah, those small holes could be fall armyworm. They hide deep inside the maize whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant maize to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: First thing first, plant maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Check with your local extension officer for the best planting dates in your area. This will help reduce the risk of fall armyworm infestation.


Instruction: How can I control fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: For young caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will scratch and kill them. Neem-based sprays also work well in the first 2 weeks of infestation. If the infestation is severe, you can use chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos — always follow the label dosage carefully.


Instruction: Why is my maize not growing well?

Response: Check for fall armyworm first. They can damage the leaves and reduce growth. Also, make sure you planted at the right time and spaced the plants correctly — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. Apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting, half at knee height.


Instruction: How do I know if my maize has fall armyworm?

Response: Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes with light through them. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. If you see these signs, act fast to control the infestation.


Instruction: Can intercropping help reduce fall armyworm attacks?

Response: Yes, my friend, intercropping maize with beans or soybean can reduce fall armyworm attacks significantly. The beans or soybean act as a trap crop, attracting the pests away from your maize. Try this method to protect your maize.


Instruction: How do I prevent fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: Plant maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Intercrop with beans or soybean, and scout your field regularly. Check 10-20 plants per field early morning or evening. If you see signs of infestation, act fast to control it.


Instruction: What should I do if I find fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: No need to panic. For young caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will scratch and kill them. Neem-based sprays also work well in the first 2 weeks of infestation. If the infestation is severe, use chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos — always follow the label dosage carefully.


Instruction: How do I space my maize plants to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: Space your maize plants at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, with one seed per hole. Proper spacing helps reduce the risk of fall armyworm infestation. Also, plant at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season.


Instruction: My friend, my cassava leaves don get yellow and green spots like mosaic pattern. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, my friend, that is cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, whiteflies spread this virus. First thing first, remove those infected plants now and burn them. Do not leave them in the farm, o. Use healthy stems next time and try resistant varieties like TME 419.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava but I no get good stems. How I go get good stems?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. Get stems from a healthy farm, not one with mosaic disease. The virus travels with the stem, you know. Ask around for farmers with resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. That is your best bet.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and distorted. What is happening to my plants?

Response: That is cassava mosaic disease, my friend. It is caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. You must remove and destroy those plants immediately. Do not let the whiteflies spread it to others. Next time, plant resistant varieties and use disease-free stems.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava. When is the best time to plant?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season, my friend. That way, the plants will establish well. Make sure to space them 1 metre by 1 metre for good yield and easy weeding. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size.


Instruction: How I go control whiteflies in my cassava farm?

Response: Use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps around the farm. Those whiteflies spread the mosaic virus, so you must control them. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419. That will help a lot, my friend.


Instruction: My cassava tubers small and deformed. Why is this happening?

Response: That is likely cassava mosaic disease. The virus causes small, deformed tubers. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Use disease-free stems next time and try resistant varieties. That is the only way, my friend.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava but my soil is poor. What I go do?

Response: Cassava can tolerate poor soils, but it responds well to potassium fertilizer. You can also mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. That will help a lot, my friend.


Instruction: How I go prevent cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: First, use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. That is the number one rule. Also, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Do those things, my friend.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don spoil. The leaves get yellow and green spots. How I go treat am?

Response: That is cassava mosaic disease. Remove and destroy those plants immediately. Do not leave them in the farm. Use healthy stems next time and try resistant varieties like TME 419. That is the only way to treat it, my friend.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava. How I go space the plants?

Response: Space them 1 metre by 1 metre for good yield and ease of weeding. That spacing will help the plants grow well. Also, mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Do that, my friend.


Instruction: My mango tree leaves have brown spots all over them. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this could be mango anthracnose. It's a fungus that causes dark brown spots on leaves. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: I notice black spots on my mango fruits before I even pick them. What is this?

Response: This is anthracnose, a common mango disease. The black spots mean the fungus was already inside the fruit. To prevent this, spray your trees with mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering, and repeat every 10 days in rainy weather. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause am when my mango flowers don turn black and fall off?

Response: This is blossom blight, caused by the same fungus that causes anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers and kills them before fruit can set. To stop this, prune your tree to improve air circulation and spray with fungicide during flowering.


Instruction: My mangoes look fine on the tree but turn black after 2 days of harvest. Why?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit, and it spreads quickly as the fruit ripens. Handle fruits carefully when harvesting to avoid wounds. Pick them at the right maturity and store in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: I see dark brown spots on my mango leaves. Is this a problem?

Response: Yes, those spots are a sign of anthracnose. It's a fungus that thrives in wet conditions. Remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. Also, avoid overhead irrigation to keep the leaves dry.