Instruction: Why no need plant cowpea late?

Response: No need to plant cowpea late, my friend. Late planting means your plants will grow when aphids are at their peak. They will suck the sap and spread viruses, making your plants weak. Plant early so your cowpea can grow strong before the aphids become too much. Prepare your land this week.


Instruction: How can I time my cowpea planting to avoid aphid infestations?

Response: To avoid aphid infestations, plant your cowpea early in the season. Aphids are more troublesome in the dry season, so early planting helps your plants grow strong before the aphids become too many. Check your seeds today and prepare your land this week.


Instruction: What is the best time to intercrop cowpea with maize to reduce aphid pressure?

Response: The best time to intercrop cowpea with maize is at the start of the planting season. Intercropping at a 4:1 ratio of maize to cowpea helps reduce aphid pressure. Plant early so both crops can grow together and protect each other. Prepare your land this week and start planting.


Instruction: When should I apply neem oil spray to control aphids on my cowpea?

Response: Apply neem oil spray as soon as you see aphids on your cowpea plants. Do not wait until they multiply. Mix neem oil with soap and spray it on the affected parts. This will help control the aphids before they cause too much damage. Check your plants today and prepare the spray if needed.


Instruction: How often should I check my cowpea plants for aphids during the dry season?

Response: During the dry season, check your cowpea plants every two to three days for aphids. Aphids multiply quickly in dry conditions, so regular checking helps you catch them early. If you see any, treat them immediately with neem oil spray or garlic spray. Check your plants today and be vigilant.


Instruction: What time of day is best to spray cowpea plants with neem oil to control aphids?

Response: The best time to spray your cowpea plants with neem oil is in the early morning or late afternoon. This ensures the spray stays on the plants and is not washed off by the sun. Avoid spraying during the hottest part of the day. Prepare your spray today and apply it at the right time.


Instruction: When is the best time to remove and destroy heavily infested cowpea plants?

Response: Remove and destroy heavily infested cowpea plants as soon as you notice them. Do not wait, as the aphids will spread to other plants quickly. Burn or bury the infested plants far from your farm to prevent the aphids from spreading. Check your plants today and remove any heavily infested ones.


Instruction: How can I time my cowpea planting to benefit from natural enemies of aphids?

Response: Plant your cowpea early in the season to give natural enemies like ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps time to establish themselves. These natural enemies feed on aphids and help control their population. Plant early and protect these beneficial insects. Prepare your land this week and start planting.


Instruction: What is the best time to apply pyrethrin-based insecticide to control aphids on cowpea?

Response: Apply pyrethrin-based insecticide in the early morning or late afternoon when aphids are most active. This ensures the insecticide is effective. Follow the label instructions carefully. Check your plants today and apply the insecticide if needed, but remember this is a last resort.


Instruction: My friend, my cassava leaves don get yellow and green patch-patch. Na so cassava mosaic dey show?

Response: Yes, my friend, that sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, this virus spreads by whiteflies. First thing first, uproot and burn those infected plants right away. Don't let the whiteflies carry the virus to healthy plants. Also, use neem spray to control the whiteflies. Start today, don't wait!


Instruction: How can I plant cassava without spending too much money?

Response: Planting cassava is very cost-effective my friend. First, get stems from healthy plants only. This is very important. Space them 1 metre apart for good growth. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, cassava will shade out most weeds. Start planting at the beginning of the rainy season for the best results.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: To prevent cassava mosaic disease, always use stems from healthy plants. This is the number one rule. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Start checking your plants regularly this week.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: If your cassava leaves have yellow and green mosaic patterns, curling, or distortion, it likely has mosaic disease. Severely affected plants will produce small, deformed tubers. Uproot and burn these plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage cassava mosaic disease without spending much?

Response: The best way is to prevent it. Use disease-free stems from healthy plants. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. These methods are cheap and effective. Start today, don't wait!


Instruction: My cassava leaves don spoil but get small tubers. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Small tubers can be caused by cassava mosaic disease. Check your leaves for yellow and green mosaic patterns. If you see them, uproot and burn those plants immediately. Also, ensure you are using disease-free stems for planting. Start checking your plants this week.


Instruction: How can I improve my cassava yield without spending too much?

Response: Plant cassava at the start of the rainy season for best establishment. Space plants 1 metre by 1 metre for good yield and ease of weeding. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, cassava shades out most weeds. Start weeding your farm this week.


Instruction: What should I do if I find cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: First thing first, uproot and burn the infected plants immediately. This will stop the disease from spreading. Also, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Start treating your farm today, don't wait!


Instruction: How do I prepare my soil for cassava planting?

Response: Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Cassava can tolerate poor soils but responds well to potassium fertilizer. Start preparing your soil this week for the best results.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cassava?

Response: The best time to plant cassava is at the start of the rainy season. This ensures good establishment. Start planting your cassava this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: How does black pod disease spread so quickly in cocoa farms?

Response: My friend, black pod disease spreads like fire in wet, humid conditions. One infected pod can infect 10 others if you don't remove it quickly. The thing is, the fungus loves shade and moisture. First thing first, go and remove any infected pods today and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause cocoa black pod disease spread fast?

Response: Ah, the main thing is wet and shade. When your farm is too wet and the trees are too close together, the disease spreads like wildfire. You must prune your trees to let light and air in. Do this today if you haven't already.


Instruction: Why is it important to remove infected cocoa pods immediately?

Response: Because one infected pod can spread the disease to 10 others very quickly. The fungus loves wet and humid conditions, so if you leave the pods on the ground, the disease will spread even faster. Go and remove any infected pods today and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: How can I stop black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Remove any infected pods immediately and bury them deep or burn them. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in. This will reduce the humidity and stop the disease from spreading. Do this today.


Instruction: What conditions make black pod disease spread quickly?

Response: Wet and humid conditions make black pod disease spread like fire. The fungus loves shade and moisture, so if your farm is too wet and the trees are too close together, the disease will spread very quickly. Prune your trees to let light and air in. Do this today if you haven't already.


Instruction: How does the black pod disease move from one cocoa pod to another?

Response: The fungus spreads through water and shade. When it's wet and humid, the disease moves very quickly from one pod to another. One infected pod can infect 10 others if you don't remove it quickly. Go and remove any infected pods today and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: Why is it necessary to prune cocoa trees regularly to prevent black pod disease?

Response: Pruning lets light and air into the canopy, which reduces humidity. The fungus that causes black pod disease loves wet and humid conditions, so pruning helps stop the disease from spreading. Prune your trees today if you haven't already.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: First thing first, remove any infected pods immediately and bury them deep or burn them. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in. This will reduce the humidity and stop the disease from spreading. Do this today.


Instruction: How can I prevent black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm during the rainy season?

Response: The rainy season is the worst time for black pod disease. You must apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in. Do this today if you haven't already.


Instruction: What is the main way black pod disease spreads in cocoa farms?

Response: The main way is through water and shade. When it's wet and humid, the disease spreads very quickly from one pod to another. One infected pod can infect 10 others if you don't remove it quickly. Go and remove any infected pods today and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: How can I reduce aphid problems in my cowpea farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first, intercrop your cowpea with maize. Use 4 rows of maize for every 1 row of cowpea. This will help reduce aphid pressure. Also, plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Check your farm today and plan your intercropping if you haven't started yet.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaves turn yellow and curl?

Response: This could be cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the leaves causing yellowing and curling. Check the underside of the leaves for small shiny black or dark brown insects. If you see them, act fast to stop them from spreading. You can start by removing and destroying heavily infested parts of the plant.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are growing slowly and have black mould on the leaves. What is happening?

Response: The thing is, aphids produce sticky honeydew which encourages black sooty mould to grow on leaves. This blocks sunlight and slows plant growth. You need to control the aphids first. Try spraying neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. This will help you get started on the right path.


Instruction: How can I control cowpea aphids without using chemicals?

Response: You can use natural methods like neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps as they feed on aphids. Check your farm today and see if you can spot any of these helpful insects.


Instruction: Is it good to plant cowpea next to a farm that already has aphids?

Response: No, no need to panic but avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Aphids can easily spread to your cowpea plants. If you have already planted, start monitoring your farm closely for any signs of aphids. You can begin by checking the young shoots, flowers, and pods for any clusters of small shiny black or dark brown insects.


Instruction: What should I do if I see aphids on my cowpea plants?

Response: First, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the aphids from spreading. Then, you can use neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray to control the aphids. If the infestation is severe, you might need to consider a pyrethrin-based insecticide. Follow the label instructions carefully. Start checking your farm today to catch any infestations early.


Instruction: Can cowpea aphids spread diseases to my plants?

Response: Yes, they can. Aphids spread more than 30 plant viruses. Even a small infestation is a big threat. Check your plants regularly for any signs of aphids and act fast if you find them. You can start by inspecting the young shoots, flowers, and pods for any clusters of small shiny black or dark brown insects.


Instruction: How can I improve the soil fertility for my next crop after harvesting cowpea?

Response: Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, so it improves fertility for the next crop. To make the most of this, ensure you rotate your crops properly. Plan your next planting today and consider the benefits of cowpea's nitrogen-fixing ability.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting and have sticky leaves. What is the problem?

Response: This could be due to cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the plants causing wilting and produce sticky honeydew. Check the leaves and stems for small shiny black or dark brown insects. If you find them, start by removing and destroying heavily infested parts of the plant.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cowpea to avoid aphid problems?

Response: Plant early in the season to escape peak aphid populations which come in the dry season. This will give your plants a better chance to grow without being heavily infested. Start planning your planting schedule today to take advantage of the early season.


Instruction: My friend, my groundnut plants are not growing tall like usual, they are bushy with yellow leaves. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by tiny insects called aphids. The thing is, once a plant has it, it will never recover. First thing first, uproot and burn the infected plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Then check if you are using resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. This disease is most dangerous early in the season, so next time plant at the very start of rains.


Instruction: How I go treat groundnut rosette disease?

Response: My friend, no cure for this disease once it appears. The best thing is to prevent it. First, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 or RG 1 series. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to kill aphids that spread the disease. Also, weed your farm well because weeds can host these aphids. If you see infected plants, uproot and burn them immediately. This will help stop the disease from spreading to healthy plants.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing well. The leaves are mottled and the plants are staying small. What is the problem?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will not recover, so you must remove and burn the infected plants immediately. To prevent this disease, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting and keep your farm well-weeded. This will help control the aphids that spread the disease.


Instruction: What type of soil is best for growing groundnut?

Response: Groundnut grows best in well-drained sandy loam soil. Waterlogged soil can cause pod rot. Make sure your soil drains well. Also, space your plants at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows for good canopy closure against weeds. This will help your groundnut grow well.


Instruction: How can I prevent groundnut rosette disease in my farm?

Response: To prevent groundnut rosette disease, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to kill aphids that spread the disease. Also, weed your farm well because weeds can host these aphids. If you see infected plants, uproot and burn them immediately. This will help stop the disease from spreading to healthy plants.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not producing pods. What is the problem?

Response: If your groundnut plants are not producing pods, it might be because you are applying too much nitrogen. Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen, so too much nitrogen will give you leaves but not pods. Reduce the nitrogen in your fertilizer. Also, make sure your soil is well-drained and not waterlogged. This will help your groundnut produce more pods.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut leaves to turn yellow and bunch up?

Response: This is likely groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will not recover, so you must remove and burn the infected plants immediately. To prevent this disease, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 or RG 1 series. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting and keep your farm well-weeded. This will help control the aphids that spread the disease.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut has rosette disease?

Response: Groundnut rosette disease causes plants to stay small and bushy with yellowed or mottled bunched leaves. There is no cure once a plant is infected — it will never recover and must be removed immediately. To prevent this disease, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting and keep your farm well-weeded. This will help control the aphids that spread the disease.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant groundnut to avoid rosette disease?

Response: The best time to plant groundnut to avoid rosette disease is at the very start of the rains. This helps you escape the peak aphid populations that come later in the season. Also, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting and keep your farm well-weeded. This will help control the aphids that spread the disease.


Instruction: Why is it important to harvest groundnut before heavy rains?

Response: Harvesting groundnut before heavy rains is important to avoid aflatoxin contamination in wet pods. Aflatoxin is very dangerous. Make sure to dry the pods properly before storage — moisture above 9 percent causes aflatoxin. Also, plant your groundnut in well-drained sandy loam soil to prevent pod rot. This will help you harvest healthy groundnut.


Instruction: How does plantain bunchy top virus spread from one plant to another?

Response: My friend, this virus spreads through tiny insects called banana aphids. They carry the virus from sick plants to healthy ones. The thing is, once a plant gets bunchy top, it's a total loss. So first thing first, if you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus. Always plant certified clean suckers to prevent this.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and brown, what could be the problem?

Response: This sounds like bunchy top virus. The leaves get stiff, narrow, and crowded at the top. Dark green streaks turn yellow then brown. No need to panic, but act fast — chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm so the virus doesn't spread. Always use clean planting material.


Instruction: Can I treat plantain bunchy top virus with chemicals?

Response: No, my friend, there is no cure for bunchy top virus. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground. Always plant certified clean suckers to prevent this disease.


Instruction: How do I prevent plantain bunchy top virus from spreading to my healthy plants?

Response: The best way is to plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Keep your farm clean and remove any infected plants immediately. The thing is, prevention is better than cure.


Instruction: My plantain farm has bunchy top, what should I do?

Response: I tell you, chop the infected plants and inject the stems with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm so the virus doesn't spread. Always plant certified clean suckers to prevent this. Check your farm regularly for new symptoms.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaves to turn yellow and brown?

Response: This could be bunchy top virus. The leaves get stiff, narrow, and crowded at the top. Dark green streaks turn yellow then brown. No need to panic, but act fast — chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm so the virus doesn't spread.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain has bunchy top virus?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, narrow, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks and dots along the veins and leaf edges that turn yellow then brown. The plant stops growing properly. If you see these signs, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Always plant certified clean suckers.


Instruction: Can I save a plantain plant with bunchy top virus?

Response: No, my friend, there is no cure for bunchy top virus. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground. Always plant certified clean suckers to prevent this disease.


Instruction: How does bunchy top virus affect plantain growth?

Response: Bunchy top virus makes the leaves short, stiff, and narrow. They get crowded at the top of the plant. The plant stops growing properly and will never produce a bunch. It's a complete loss. The thing is, act fast — chop the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Always plant certified clean suckers.


Instruction: What should I do if I find bunchy top virus in my plantain farm?

Response: First thing first, chop the infected plants and inject the stems with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm so the virus doesn't spread. Always plant certified clean suckers to prevent this. Check your farm regularly for new symptoms.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have dark brown spots with rings and yellow edges. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. It attacks older leaves first. Remove and burn those leaves immediately. Do not compost them. Spray mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during the rainy season. Water the base of plants, not the leaves.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my tomato leaves turn grey-green then brown so fast?

Response: That is late blight, my friend. It spreads quickly in wet, cool weather. Remove and burn infected leaves now. Spray chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide every 7 days. Never water the leaves, only the base.


Instruction: How can I stop tomato blight from spreading in my farm?

Response: First thing first, remove and burn any infected leaves or plants. Do not compost them. Spray mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during the rainy season. Avoid watering the leaves. Plant tomatoes on raised beds and rotate crops every season.


Instruction: What should I do if my tomato plants have grey-green patches that turn brown quickly?

Response: That is late blight. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected leaves now. Spray chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide every week. Water only the base of the plants, not the leaves.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have dark spots with rings. What is the best way to treat this?

Response: That is early blight. Remove and burn the infected leaves immediately. Do not compost them. Spray mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during the rainy season. Water only the base of the plants.


Instruction: How can I prevent tomato blight in my farm?

Response: Remove and burn any infected leaves or plants. Spray mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during the rainy season. Avoid watering the leaves. Plant tomatoes on raised beds and rotate crops every season.


Instruction: Wetin I go do if my tomato leaves don spoil so fast?

Response: That is late blight. It spreads quickly in wet weather. Remove and burn infected leaves now. Spray chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide every week. Water only the base of the plants, not the leaves.


Instruction: What are the signs of tomato blight and how can I manage it?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow edges on older leaves. Late blight causes grey-green patches that turn brown quickly. Remove and burn infected leaves. Spray mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week. Water only the base of the plants.


Instruction: How can I stop my tomato plants from getting blight?

Response: Remove and burn any infected leaves or plants. Spray mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during the rainy season. Avoid watering the leaves. Plant tomatoes on raised beds and rotate crops every season.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have grey-green patches. What is this and how do I treat it?

Response: That is late blight. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected leaves now. Spray chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide every week. Water only the base of the plants, not the leaves.


Instruction: my friend, my mango leaves don get dark brown spots like this, wetin dey cause am?

Response: My friend, that sounds like mango anthracnose. This fungus loves wet weather and warm temperatures. First thing first, remove all the infected leaves from the tree and from the ground around it. Then we can talk about treatment.


Instruction: I notice my mango flowers are dying before they can set fruit. What could be the problem?

Response: That's likely blossom blight from mango anthracnose. This fungus attacks flowers in wet weather. The thing is, once the flowers are infected, there's little you can do. Next season, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time to prevent it. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mangoes look fine on the tree but turn black within two days of harvest. Why is this happening?

Response: This is classic anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit but you couldn't see it. Handle fruits with care during harvest — any bruises let the fungus in. Harvest carefully and store fruits in a cool, dry place right away.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose in my orchard?

Response: Prune your trees after harvest to improve air circulation. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation that keeps leaves wet for too long. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What should I do if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: First remove all infected leaves and fruits from the tree and ground. Then spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride. Repeat every 10 days during rainy season. Handle harvested fruits carefully to avoid wounds that let the fungus in.


Instruction: My mango fruits get dark sunken spots that get worse after harvest. What is this?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. The spots were likely there before harvest but you couldn't see them. The fungus grows faster as the fruit ripens. Handle fruits carefully at harvest and store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: Most varieties show a slight colour change at the tip when ready. Harvest carefully — don't drop the fruits. Any bruises can let disease in. Store them in a cool, dry place right away.


Instruction: My mango orchard has anthracnose. What can I do to stop it spreading?

Response: Remove all infected leaves and fruits from the tree and ground. Prune the tree to improve air circulation. Avoid overhead irrigation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin I go do make my mangoes no go get sickness?

Response: Keep your orchard clean — remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Prune your trees after harvest to improve air circulation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I'm worried about my mango trees. The leaves have brown spots and the flowers are dying. Help!

Response: No need to panic, my friend. This sounds like anthracnose. First, remove all infected leaves and flowers. Then spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride. Repeat every 10 days during rainy season. Handle harvested fruits carefully to avoid wounds.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are turning yellow and green in patches. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is cassava mosaic disease. The whitefly spreads this virus. First thing first, remove and burn those infected plants right away. Then check your planting stems next time — they must come from healthy plants only. You can also try neem spray to control the whiteflies.


Instruction: How I go know say my cassava don get mosaic?

Response: Check your leaves well. If you see yellow and green patches like a mosaic, or if the leaves curl and twist, that’s mosaic disease. The thing is, if you see these signs, you must act fast. Pull out the bad plants and destroy them. Don’t let the whiteflies spread it to the rest of your farm.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cassava?

Response: Plant cassava at the start of the rainy season. That way, the young plants get enough water to grow strong. Make sure to space them well — 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives them room to grow and makes weeding easier. Don’t forget to mound the soil before planting to help drainage.


Instruction: My cassava tubers are small. What am I doing wrong?

Response: Small tubers often mean the plants didn’t get enough space or nutrients. Space your plants 1 metre apart for good growth. Also, cassava loves potassium fertilizer. If your soil is poor, add some fertilizer to help the tubers grow bigger. And remember, mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size.


Instruction: How can I stop whiteflies from spreading disease in my cassava?

Response: Whiteflies spread cassava mosaic disease, so you must control them. Use neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm. But the best thing is to always plant disease-free stems. Never use stems from a farm that had mosaic disease. The virus can stay in the stem and infect your new plants.


Instruction: What should I do if I find mosaic disease in my cassava?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Burn them or bury them deep so the virus doesn’t spread. Then, check your other plants closely. If you see any more signs of mosaic, remove those plants too. Next time, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572.


Instruction: How often should I weed my cassava farm?

Response: Weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, cassava grows big and shades out most weeds. But in the early stages, weeds can compete with your plants for water and nutrients. So, keep the farm clean, especially in the first few months. This will help your cassava grow strong and healthy.


Instruction: Can cassava grow in poor soil?

Response: Yes, cassava can grow in poor soil, but it won’t give you the best yield. If your soil is not very good, add some potassium fertilizer. Cassava responds well to it. Also, mound the soil before planting to improve drainage. This helps the tubers grow bigger and healthier. Don’t forget to space your plants well for good growth.


Instruction: What varieties of cassava are resistant to mosaic disease?

Response: Look for varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. These are known to resist mosaic disease. Always ask for disease-resistant varieties when you buy your planting stems. And remember, never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic disease. The virus can stay in the stem and infect your new plants.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest cassava?

Response: You can harvest cassava between 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you need it for. If you want big tubers, wait longer. But if you need the tubers for processing, you can harvest earlier. Just make sure the plants are mature enough. Check the leaves and stems to see if they’re ready.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: My friend, the best time to plant plantain suckers is at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants enough water to establish well. Go check your planting calendar and mark the date for planting this year.


Instruction: How far apart should I space my plantain plants?

Response: Space your plantain plants 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows good airflow between plants and makes harvesting much easier. Measure your field and plan your planting lines carefully.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don get small and stiff, and dem crowd for top of the plant. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus, my friend. It is a very bad disease with no cure. First thing first, chop the infected plant to the ground right now. Then inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: What should I do if I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves?

Response: Those dark green streaks on the veins and leaf edges turning yellow then brown are signs of bunchy top virus. No need to panic, but act fast. Chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: How can I prevent bunchy top virus in my plantain farm?

Response: Prevention is key, my friend. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Always plant certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. This way, you start with healthy plants.


Instruction: How many suckers should I keep per plantain mat?

Response: Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat at any time. This is called desuckering and it helps the main plant grow strong. Remove any extra suckers so they don't compete for nutrients.


Instruction: What type of fertilizer is best for plantain?

Response: Plantain loves potassium. Use a potassium-rich fertilizer because plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Check your fertilizer bag to see the potassium content before buying.


Instruction: How can I keep my plantain farm weed-free?

Response: Mulch heavily around your plantain plants. Mulching retains moisture and suppresses weeds. Use dry grass, leaves, or any organic material you have. Spread it thickly around each plant.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don show dark streaks but dem turn yellow and brown. How I go treat am?

Response: Those yellow and brown leaves could still be bunchy top virus. Chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do not wait, as the virus will spread to other plants.


Instruction: What is the main way bunchy top virus spreads?

Response: Bunchy top virus spreads by banana aphids that carry the virus from infected to healthy plants. To prevent spread, keep your farm clean and remove any infected plants immediately. Check your plants often for signs of aphids.


Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from destroying my crop?

Response: My friend, first thing first — stop over-applying nitrogen fertilizer. That feeds the fungus! Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf spots. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. This week, check your fields and start treating if you see any lesions.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey spots with brown edges. What do I do?

Response: Ah, my friend, that sounds like rice blast. This fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. Spray isoprothiolane fungicide right away. Also, make sure you're not flooding and drying your fields too much. Keep the water steady and check your fertilizer amounts.


Instruction: How I go treat rice blast for my paddy?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Spray tricyclazole fungicide when you first see leaf spots. For neck blast, spray at boot stage before the panicle comes out. Also, plant resistant varieties like FARO 57. This week, check your fields and start treating if you see any lesions.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent rice blast in my field?

Response: Prevention is key, my friend. Plant resistant varieties like the NERICA series. Keep your fields well-watered but don't let them dry out and flood alternately. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. And remember, don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: My rice stalks are falling over. What is happening?

Response: That sounds like neck blast, the most damaging form of rice blast. It attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk. Spray propiconazole fungicide at boot stage to prevent it. Also, make sure you're not over-applying nitrogen fertilizer. This week, check your fields and start treating if you see any lesions.


Instruction: How can I save my rice crop from blast disease?

Response: Act fast, my friend. Spray tricyclazole or isoprothiolane fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52. Keep your fields well-watered and don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. This week, check your fields and start treating if you see any lesions.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice leaves to have diamond-shaped spots?

Response: That is rice blast, caused by a fungus. It loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. Spray propiconazole fungicide right away. Also, make sure you're not flooding and drying your fields too much. Keep the water steady and check your fertilizer amounts.


Instruction: What should I do if I see spindle-shaped lesions on my rice leaves?

Response: That is rice blast, my friend. Spray tricyclazole fungicide immediately. Also, plant resistant varieties like FARO 57. Keep your fields well-watered and don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. This week, check your fields and start treating if you see any lesions.


Instruction: How can I stop my rice stalks from falling over?

Response: That sounds like neck blast. Spray isoprothiolane fungicide at boot stage to prevent it. Also, plant resistant varieties like the NERICA series. Keep your fields well-watered and don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. This week, check your fields and start treating if you see any lesions.


Instruction: My rice crop has grey spots with reddish edges. How do I treat it?

Response: That is rice blast, caused by a fungus. Spray propiconazole fungicide right away. Also, make sure you're not flooding and drying your fields too much. Keep the water steady and check your fertilizer amounts. This week, check your fields and start treating if you see any lesions.


Instruction: How I go know if my mango tree get anthracnose?

Response: My friend, check your mango leaves for dark brown spots. On flowers, it causes blossom blight, killing them before fruit sets. On fruits, you'll see dark sunken lesions. First thing first, prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: What causes those black spots on my mango fruits?

Response: Those black spots are from mango anthracnose, a fungal disease. It loves wet conditions and warm weather. The thing is, the fungus can be inside the fruit before you even harvest it. Handle your fruits carefully to avoid wounds that let the fungus in.


Instruction: My mango fruits don spoil after harvest, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this is likely anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit before harvest. When the fruit ripens, the disease shows up. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering and repeat every 10 days in rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose in my orchard?

Response: First, prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly as they carry fungal spores. Avoid overhead irrigation and harvest your fruits at the right maturity. A slight colour change at the tip is a good sign.


Instruction: What should I do if I see dark spots on my mango leaves?

Response: Those dark spots are a sign of anthracnose. Prune the affected leaves immediately to stop the spread. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why do my mango flowers keep dying before fruiting?

Response: This is likely blossom blight caused by anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers, killing them before fruit sets. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering and repeat every 10 days in rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I tell when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip of the fruit. This is the sign for most varieties. Harvest carefully, do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately to prevent anthracnose from spreading.


Instruction: What is the best way to store mangoes after harvest?

Response: Handle your mangoes with extreme care to avoid bruises. Store them in a cool dry place immediately. This will slow down the ripening process and prevent anthracnose from spreading if it's already in the fruit.


Instruction: Can I save my mango tree if it has anthracnose?

Response: Yes, you can! Prune the affected parts immediately. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully and remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your trees and remove fallen leaves and fruits to reduce the fungal spores.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from spreading to my whole farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first — check your plants every morning. If you see those shiny black aphids clustering on young shoots or pods, don't wait. Remove those parts immediately and burn them far from your farm. That will stop the aphids from spreading. Also, spray neem oil mixed with soap on the whole plant to kill the rest. Do this today before the problem grows.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves don turn yellow and dey curl up, wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, that sounds like aphids. Those tiny black insects suck the life out of your plants. They cause yellowing and curling. If you don't act fast, they'll spread to the whole farm. Check your plants now and remove any with heavy infestation. Then spray neem oil with soap. Do it this week before it gets worse.


Instruction: How do I know if aphids are spreading in my cowpea farm?

Response: Look for shiny black or dark brown insects clustered on young shoots, flowers, or pods. They leave a sticky mess called honeydew, which turns into black mould on leaves. If you see these signs, act fast. Remove and destroy the worst affected parts today. Then spray neem oil mixed with soap to stop the spread.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cowpea aphids from spreading to my farm?

Response: Plant your cowpea early in the season before aphid numbers grow. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Avoid planting downwind or next to farms already infested. Check your plants regularly and remove any with heavy infestation. Do this this week to stay ahead of the problem.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea plants. How I go stop dem from spoil my farm?

Response: Those are aphids, and they spread fast. First, remove and burn any heavily infested parts right now. Then spray neem oil mixed with soap on the whole plant. This will kill the aphids and stop them from spreading. Do it today before they cause more damage.


Instruction: What is the best way to control cowpea aphids without chemicals?

Response: Neem oil mixed with soap is a great natural option. Spray it on the plants to kill the aphids. Also, encourage natural enemies like ladybird beetles and hoverflies. They feed on aphids and help control the problem. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the spread. Do this this week.


Instruction: How can I protect my cowpea farm from aphid infestation?

Response: Plant early in the season and intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Avoid planting near infested farms. Check your plants regularly and remove any with heavy infestation. Spray neem oil mixed with soap to kill the aphids. Do this this week to keep your farm safe.


Instruction: My cowpea plants have sticky leaves and black mould. What is happening?

Response: That sticky mess is called honeydew, and it's from aphids. They suck sap from your plants and leave this sticky stuff behind. The black mould grows on the honeydew and blocks sunlight. Remove and destroy the worst affected parts today. Then spray neem oil mixed with soap to kill the aphids.


Instruction: What should I do if I see aphids on my cowpea flowers?

Response: Aphids on flowers are bad news. They spread fast and cause serious damage. Remove and burn the infested flowers immediately. Then spray neem oil mixed with soap on the whole plant. Do this today to stop the aphids from spreading further.


Instruction: How can I stop aphids from spreading from one cowpea plant to another?

Response: Check your plants every day. If you see aphids, remove and destroy the worst affected parts right away. This stops them from spreading to other plants. Spray neem oil mixed with soap on the whole plant to kill any remaining aphids. Do this this week to keep your farm safe.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small, bushy, and have yellow leaves. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. First thing first, remove those infected plants immediately. They won't recover. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis small, bushy groundnut wey get yellow leaves?

Response: The thing is, this is groundnut rosette disease. Aphids spread this virus. No need to panic, but you must remove those plants right away. They can't be saved. Also, make sure to plant resistant varieties next time.


Instruction: Why are my groundnut plants stunted and have mottled leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants won't recover, so remove them immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm well-weeded.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are bunched and yellow. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. Unfortunately, there's no cure, so remove the infected plants immediately. To prevent this, plant early and use resistant varieties.


Instruction: What is the cause of my groundnut plants looking small and bushy with yellow leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's a virus spread by aphids. The plants won't recover, so remove them immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing tall and have yellow spots. What is wrong?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. Remove the infected plants immediately. To prevent this, plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm well-weeded.


Instruction: Why are my groundnut plants staying small and have mottled leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's a virus spread by aphids. The plants won't recover, so remove them immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are yellow and bunched together. Is this a problem?

Response: Yes, this is groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. Remove the infected plants immediately. To prevent this, plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm well-weeded.


Instruction: What is the issue if my groundnut plants are stunted and have yellow leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's a virus spread by aphids. The plants won't recover, so remove them immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small, bushy, and have yellow spots. What should I do?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's a virus spread by aphids. Remove the infected plants immediately. To prevent this, plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm well-weeded.


Instruction: My friend, my rice leaves get small brown spots with white centres. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is rice blast, a very bad fungus disease. The thing is, if you don't control it, it can destroy your harvest. First thing first, stop adding too much nitrogen fertilizer. That only makes the disease worse. Go to the agro shop and buy tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide. Spray it now before the disease spreads. Also, check if you have blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. If not, plant them next season.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice plants to fall over near harvest time?

Response: Ah, this is neck blast, my friend. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, making it weak and fall over. This is very bad because you can lose almost all your rice. The fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. So, don't over-fertilize. Also, spray fungicide at boot stage, before the panicle comes out. Timing is everything. Next season, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57.


Instruction: I see brown spots on my rice leaves. Is this normal?

Response: No, no, this is not normal. This is rice blast, a very bad disease. If you don't control it, it can destroy your harvest. Stop adding too much nitrogen fertilizer. That only makes the disease worse. Go to the agro shop and buy tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide. Spray it now before the disease spreads. Also, check if you have blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. If not, plant them next season.


Instruction: Why my rice plants always get disease?

Response: My friend, if your rice plants always get disease, you might be over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Too much nitrogen is like feeding the fungus directly. Also, if you let your field dry out and flood alternately, that makes the disease worse. Maintain proper water levels and use balanced NPK fertilizer. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 next season.


Instruction: How I go prevent rice blast?

Response: First, don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. If you see leaf lesions, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide immediately. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My rice plants fall over before harvest. What I go do?

Response: Ah, this is neck blast, my friend. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, making it weak and fall over. This is very bad because you can lose almost all your rice. The fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. So, don't over-fertilize. Also, spray fungicide at boot stage, before the panicle comes out. Timing is everything. Next season, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57.


Instruction: I see small brown spots on my rice leaves. Is this bad?

Response: Yes, this is bad. This is rice blast, a very bad disease. If you don't control it, it can destroy your harvest. Stop adding too much nitrogen fertilizer. That only makes the disease worse. Go to the agro shop and buy tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide. Spray it now before the disease spreads. Also, check if you have blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. If not, plant them next season.


Instruction: Why my rice plants always get disease after heavy rain?

Response: My friend, heavy rain and cool nights create the perfect conditions for rice blast. The fungus loves high humidity and heavy dew. Also, if you over-apply nitrogen fertilizer, that makes the disease worse. Maintain proper water levels and use balanced NPK fertilizer. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 next season.


Instruction: My rice leaves have brown spots with white centres. What is this?

Response: This is rice blast, a very bad fungus disease. The thing is, if you don't control it, it can destroy your harvest. First thing first, stop adding too much nitrogen fertilizer. That only makes the disease worse. Go to the agro shop and buy tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide. Spray it now before the disease spreads. Also, check if you have blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. If not, plant them next season.


Instruction: How I go save my rice from this disease?

Response: First, stop adding too much nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. If you see leaf lesions, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide immediately. Follow the label instructions carefully. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA next season.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning brown and stiff at the top. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like banana bunchy top virus. The leaves turn stiff and brown because the plant is dying. First thing first: chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do not waste time or money on treatment — there is no cure. This will stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. What is this?

Response: Those dark green streaks are a bad sign — it's banana bunchy top virus. The streaks will turn yellow then brown, and your plant will never produce a bunch. The thing is, there is no cure. Chop the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are crowded and stiff at the top. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal. It is a sign of banana bunchy top virus. The leaves become stiff and crowded because the plant is infected. There is no treatment, so chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will help stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaves to turn brown and stiff?

Response: That is banana bunchy top virus, my friend. The leaves turn brown and stiff because the plant is dying. There is no cure, so chop the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will help stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: My plantain leaves have yellow spots along the veins. What is wrong?

Response: Those yellow spots are a sign of banana bunchy top virus. The spots start as dark green streaks, then turn yellow and brown. The plant will never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will help stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: I see dark green dots on my plantain leaves. Is this a problem?

Response: Yes, those dark green dots are a problem. It is banana bunchy top virus. The dots will turn yellow then brown, and the plant will never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will help stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are short and crowded at the top. What should I do?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The leaves become short and crowded because the plant is infected. There is no cure, so chop the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will help stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and brown. What is the cause?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The leaves turn yellow and brown because the plant is dying. There is no cure, so chop the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will help stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. How did this happen?

Response: Those dark green streaks are banana bunchy top virus. The virus is spread by banana aphids that carry it from infected to healthy plants. There is no cure, so chop the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will help stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are stiff and not growing properly. What is wrong?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The leaves become stiff and the plant stops growing because it is infected. There is no cure, so chop the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This will help stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: How can I grow cassava without spending much money?

Response: My friend, cassava is one tough crop! You don't need much money to grow it. First thing first, use stems from your own healthy plants or from a trusted neighbour. Plant at the start of rains and space them 1 metre apart. Weed well for the first 3 months, then the cassava will shade out the weeds. Today, check your farm for healthy stems to plant.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don turn yellow and green like mosaic, wetin I go do?

Response: Ah, that mosaic disease don catch your cassava. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Pull out the sick plants and burn them far from your farm. Check your other plants and remove any with the same signs. Today, go round your farm and remove all infected plants.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to stop whiteflies from spreading cassava mosaic?

Response: Whiteflies are the ones spreading the mosaic disease. The cheapest way to control them is with neem leaves. Crush fresh neem leaves, mix with water, and spray on your plants. You can also make yellow sticky traps from old paper and oil to catch the whiteflies. Today, gather some neem leaves and prepare your spray.


Instruction: How can I plant cassava to get big tubers without spending much?

Response: For big tubers, mound your soil before planting. This helps with drainage and gives the tubers more room to grow. Space your plants well at 1 metre apart. Cassava likes potassium, so if you have any compost or wood ash, add a little to the soil. Today, start mounding your soil where you want to plant.


Instruction: Is it true cassava can grow in poor soil and still give good harvest?

Response: Yes, cassava can grow in poor soil, but it will give better harvest in good soil. If your soil is poor, add some compost or manure if you have any. Mounding the soil also helps. Cassava responds well to potassium, so wood ash can help if you have it. Today, check your soil and see where you can add some organic matter.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don curl and deform, how I go treat am?

Response: Those curled and deformed leaves are signs of cassava mosaic. The best treatment is to remove and burn the infected plants immediately. Do not replant stems from this farm. Use disease-free stems next time and plant resistant varieties like TME 419. Today, remove all infected plants and burn them far from your farm.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cassava to save money on irrigation?

Response: The best time to plant cassava is at the start of the rainy season. This way, you won't need to water the plants. The rains will help the cassava establish well. Space your plants well and weed regularly for the first 3 months. Today, check your farm and prepare for planting at the start of the rains.


Instruction: How can I stop cassava mosaic from coming back to my farm?

Response: To stop cassava mosaic from coming back, always use disease-free stems. Do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Today, check your stems and make sure they are from healthy plants.


Instruction: My cassava tubers small small, how I go make dem big?

Response: Small tubers can be from poor soil or not enough space. Mound your soil before planting to improve drainage and give the tubers more room. Space your plants 1 metre apart. Add some compost or wood ash if you have any. Today, start mounding your soil for better tuber growth.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to control weeds in cassava?

Response: The cheapest way to control weeds in cassava is to weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, the cassava will shade out most weeds. Space your plants well at 1 metre apart to make weeding easier. Today, go and weed your cassava farm well.


Instruction: My friend, my plantain leaves don turn small and stiff, and dem full of green lines. What dey cause this?

Response: My friend, this sound like banana bunchy top virus. The thing is, no cure for this disease. First thing first: chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Don't move suckers from this farm again.


Instruction: I see dark green lines on my plantain leaves. What is happening to my plantain?

Response: Those dark green lines are a sign of banana bunchy top virus. This disease will ruin your plantain — it won't produce any fruit. The moment you see these signs, cut down the plant and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus spreading. Always plant clean suckers next time.


Instruction: How I go plant my plantain for this rainy season?

Response: For best results, plant your suckers at the start of the rainy season. Space them 3 metres apart to allow good airflow. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. This week, check your farm and remove any extra suckers to give the plants room to grow.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don spoil. Dem turn yellow and brown. How I go treat am?

Response: This sounds like banana bunchy top virus. There is no treatment — the plant is already lost. Cut it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Next time, plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets to avoid this problem.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant plantain for good harvest?

Response: Plant your suckers at the start of the rainy season. Space them 3 metres apart to allow good airflow and easy harvesting. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. Mulch heavily around the plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds. This week, check your farm and remove any extra suckers.


Instruction: Why my plantain no grow well? The leaves small and crowded at the top.

Response: This could be banana bunchy top virus. The plant will never produce fruit. Cut it down immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Always plant clean suckers from disease-free sources to avoid this problem. Check your farm this week and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: How I go know if my plantain have disease?

Response: Look for short, stiff leaves crowded at the top of the plant. Check for dark green streaks and dots along the veins and leaf edges. If you see these signs, the plant has banana bunchy top virus and must be removed immediately. Cut it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don turn yellow and brown. What I go do?

Response: This sounds like banana bunchy top virus. There is no cure — the plant is already lost. Cut it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Next time, plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets to avoid this problem. Check your farm this week and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: What is the best fertilizer for plantain?

Response: Plantain needs lots of potassium. Use a fertilizer with high potassium content. Apply it carefully, following the label instructions. This week, check your farm and apply fertilizer if needed to give your plants a boost.


Instruction: How I go prevent disease in my plantain farm?

Response: The best way is to plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Space your plants well for good airflow. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. Mulch heavily to retain moisture and suppress weeds. This week, check your farm and remove any extra suckers to give the plants room to grow.


Instruction: How can I protect my tomato plants from disease without spending much money?

Response: My friend, first thing first — keep your plants healthy and strong. Space them well for good airflow and stake them to keep fruits off the ground. Water only at the base, never on the leaves. If you see any sick leaves, remove and burn them right away. No need to panic, just act fast and follow these simple steps.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to stop blight in my tomato garden?

Response: The thing is, blight loves wet leaves. So, water your tomatoes carefully at the base, not on the leaves. Also, remove any sick leaves you see and burn them. If you can, plant on raised beds to help water drain away. This will cost you almost nothing and keep your plants safer.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil with brown spots, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this could be early blight. You'll see dark brown spots with rings on older leaves. It starts from the bottom and spreads fast in wet weather. Remove the bad leaves and burn them. Don't compost them. Also, water only at the base of the plants to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: How can I grow tomatoes without spending much on chemicals?

Response: You can keep your tomatoes healthy with good farming practices. Space them well for airflow, stake them to keep fruits off the ground, and water only at the base. Remove and burn any sick leaves you see. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea to break the disease cycle.


Instruction: What is the best way to space tomato plants to prevent disease?

Response: Space your tomato plants at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This gives them room to grow and lets air move freely, which helps keep diseases away. Also, stake them at 30 cm height to keep fruits and leaves off the ground.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomatoes have blight and what should I do?

Response: Blight shows as dark brown spots with rings for early blight, or water-soaked patches that turn brown for late blight. If you see these, remove and burn the bad leaves right away. Don't compost them. Also, water only at the base of the plants to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: My tomatoes getting wet spots that turn brown, how I go treat am?

Response: This could be late blight, which spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn any sick leaves you see. Water only at the base of the plants to keep leaves dry. If you can, spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent blight in my tomato farm without spending much?

Response: Keep your plants healthy and strong. Space them well for good airflow, stake them to keep fruits off the ground, and water only at the base. Remove and burn any sick leaves you see. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea to break the disease cycle.


Instruction: How can I save my tomato plants from blight if it starts raining?

Response: Blight spreads fast in wet weather, so act quickly. Remove and burn any sick leaves you see. Water only at the base of the plants to keep leaves dry. If you can, spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What is the most cost-effective way to manage tomato blight?

Response: The best way is to prevent it. Space your plants well for airflow, stake them to keep fruits off the ground, and water only at the base. Remove and burn any sick leaves you see. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea to break the disease cycle. This will cost you almost nothing and keep your plants safer.


Instruction: A farmer asks about a disease causing diamond-shaped spots on rice leaves

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. It is caused by a fungus and can be very destructive. The diamond-shaped spots with grey centers and brown edges are a clear sign. First thing first, do not panic. Spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide immediately and follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check if you are using too much nitrogen fertilizer — excess nitrogen feeds the fungus. Reduce it if you are.


Instruction: A farmer asks how to prevent neck blast in rice

Response: Neck blast is very dangerous as it can cause the grain-bearing stalk to fall over. To prevent it, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the boot stage, before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything, so do not delay. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or NERICA series. These varieties are good options in Nigeria and West Africa.


Instruction: A farmer asks why their rice plants are falling over

Response: My friend, this could be neck blast, a serious form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to fall over. To prevent this, spray fungicide at the boot stage and plant resistant varieties. Also, avoid over-applying nitrogen fertilizer as it makes the disease worse.


Instruction: A farmer asks about the best time to spray fungicide for rice blast

Response: The best time to spray fungicide for rice blast is at the first sign of leaf lesions. For neck blast prevention, spray at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything, so do not delay. Use tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide and follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: A farmer asks how to manage rice blast disease

Response: My friend, managing rice blast disease starts with prevention. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or NERICA series. Maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and avoid overcrowding seedlings during transplanting. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and do not over-apply nitrogen. If you see leaf lesions, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide immediately.


Instruction: A farmer asks why their rice field is drying out and flooding alternately

Response: My friend, maintaining proper water levels in your paddy field is very important. Do not let the field dry out and flood alternately. This can stress the plants and make them more susceptible to diseases like rice blast. Keep the water levels consistent and check your irrigation system.


Instruction: A farmer asks how to reduce disease pressure in rice farming

Response: To reduce disease pressure in your rice farm, start by planting resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or NERICA series. Maintain proper water levels and avoid overcrowding seedlings during transplanting. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and do not over-apply nitrogen. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores that survive in crop residues.


Instruction: A farmer asks about the best varieties of rice to plant to avoid blast disease

Response: My friend, planting blast-resistant varieties is a good first step. FARO 52, FARO 57, and NERICA series are good options in Nigeria and West Africa. These varieties are less susceptible to rice blast disease. Also, maintain good farming practices like proper water management and balanced fertilizer use.


Instruction: A farmer asks what to do if their rice plants have diamond-shaped spots

Response: My friend, those diamond-shaped spots with grey centers and brown edges are signs of rice blast disease. First thing first, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide immediately and follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer use — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Reduce it if you are using too much.


Instruction: How is the damage from rice blast different from other rice diseases?

Response: My friend, rice blast is unique because it causes diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions on leaves and can make the grain-bearing stalk fall over, especially with neck blast. Other diseases may cause yellowing or different spot patterns. The thing is, neck blast is the most damaging form. Check your field now for any strange spots and act fast if you see them.


Instruction: What makes rice blast worse than other rice diseases?

Response: Rice blast is the most destructive rice disease in the world. It can reduce grain yield by 70 to 80 percent in severe epidemic years. The fungus loves cool nights, high humidity, and too much nitrogen fertilizer. No need to panic, but first thing first, check your field for any signs of the disease and adjust your fertilizer use.


Instruction: Why is rice blast more dangerous than other rice diseases?

Response: Rice blast is more dangerous because it can cause the grain-bearing stalk to fall over, especially with neck blast. This is the most damaging form. Other diseases may not cause such severe damage. The fungus thrives in cool nights and high humidity. Check your field for any signs of the disease and spray fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions.


Instruction: How is rice blast different from other rice diseases in terms of damage?

Response: Rice blast is different because it can cause the grain-bearing stalk to fall over, especially with neck blast. This is the most damaging form. Other diseases may cause yellowing or different spot patterns. The fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. Check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast if you see any strange spots.


Instruction: Wetin dey make rice blast worse pass other rice diseases?

Response: Rice blast is worse because it can reduce grain yield by 70 to 80 percent in severe epidemic years. The fungus loves cool nights, high humidity, and too much nitrogen fertilizer. No need to panic, but first thing first, check your field for any signs of the disease and adjust your fertilizer use.


Instruction: How is the damage from rice blast different from other rice diseases in terms of yield loss?

Response: Rice blast can reduce grain yield by 70 to 80 percent in severe epidemic years. Other diseases may not cause such severe damage. The fungus thrives in cool nights and high humidity. Check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast if you see any strange spots.


Instruction: Why is rice blast more destructive than other rice diseases?

Response: Rice blast is the most destructive rice disease in the world. It can cause the grain-bearing stalk to fall over, especially with neck blast. This is the most damaging form. Other diseases may not cause such severe damage. The fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. Check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast if you see any strange spots.


Instruction: How is rice blast different from other rice diseases in terms of the fungus that causes it?

Response: Rice blast is caused by the fungus Magnaporthe oryzae. This fungus loves cool nights, high humidity, and too much nitrogen fertilizer. Other diseases may be caused by different fungi or bacteria. The thing is, the fungus thrives in cool nights and high humidity. Check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast if you see any strange spots.


Instruction: Why is rice blast more harmful than other rice diseases in terms of the fungus that causes it?

Response: Rice blast is caused by the fungus Magnaporthe oryzae, which is the most destructive rice disease in the world. The fungus loves cool nights, high humidity, and too much nitrogen fertilizer. Other diseases may be caused by different fungi or bacteria. The thing is, the fungus thrives in cool nights and high humidity. Check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast if you see any strange spots.


Instruction: How is rice blast different from other rice diseases in terms of the conditions it thrives in?

Response: Rice blast thrives in cool nights, high humidity, and too much nitrogen fertilizer. Other diseases may thrive in different conditions. The thing is, the fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. Check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast if you see any strange spots.


Instruction: How can I stop diseases from attacking my tomato plants?

Response: My friend, first thing first — keep your tomato plants dry and happy! Avoid watering from above, always water at the base. Also, plant them on ridges so water drains well. And remember, don't plant tomato in the same spot two years running — rotate with maize or cowpea. This week, check your plants and remove any leaves touching the ground.


Instruction: Why my tomato leaves get brown spots?

Response: That could be early blight, my friend. You'll see dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on lower leaves. It starts from the bottom and spreads fast in wet weather. Remove those leaves now, bag them, and burn them. Don't compost! Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week in rainy season.


Instruction: How I go prevent blight for my tomato?

Response: To prevent blight, keep your tomato plants dry and well-spaced. Plant on ridges for good drainage. Spray fungicide like mancozeb every 7 days during rain. And always remove and burn infected leaves at first sign. This week, check your plants and remove any leaves touching the ground.


Instruction: What can I do to keep my tomato plants healthy during rainy season?

Response: During rainy season, blight spreads very fast. Spray fungicide like mancozeb every week. Avoid watering from above — always water at the base. Remove and burn any infected leaves you see. And plant on ridges for better drainage. This week, check your plants and remove any leaves touching the ground.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomato plants have late blight?

Response: Late blight causes water-soaked greyish-green patches that turn brown. It destroys plants fast in wet weather. If you see this, remove and burn infected parts immediately. Spray copper fungicide every week during rain. And plant on ridges for better drainage. This week, check your plants and remove any leaves touching the ground.


Instruction: My tomato leaves don spoil, wetin I go do?

Response: If your tomato leaves are spoiling, it could be blight. Remove and burn those leaves now! Spray fungicide like mancozeb every week during rain. Keep your plants dry — water at the base, not from above. And plant on ridges for good drainage. This week, check your plants and remove any leaves touching the ground.


Instruction: What should I do to prevent disease in my tomato farm?

Response: To prevent disease, keep your tomato plants dry and well-spaced. Plant on ridges for drainage. Spray fungicide like mancozeb every week in rainy season. Remove and burn infected leaves at first sign. And rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same spot two years running. This week, check your plants and remove any leaves touching the ground.


Instruction: How can I stop my tomato plants from getting sick?

Response: To keep your tomato plants healthy, avoid overhead watering — water at the base. Plant on ridges for good drainage. Spray fungicide like mancozeb every week during rain. Remove and burn any infected leaves you see. And rotate your crops — plant maize or cowpea after tomato. This week, check your plants and remove any leaves touching the ground.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent blight in tomatoes?

Response: The best way to prevent blight is to keep your plants dry. Water at the base, not from above. Plant on ridges for drainage. Spray fungicide like mancozeb every week in rainy season. Remove and burn infected leaves at first sign. And rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same spot two years running. This week, check your plants and remove any leaves touching the ground.


Instruction: How do I protect my tomato plants from disease?

Response: To protect your tomato plants, keep them dry and well-spaced. Plant on ridges for drainage. Spray fungicide like mancozeb every week during rain. Remove and burn any infected leaves you see. And rotate your crops — plant maize or cowpea after tomato. This week, check your plants and remove any leaves touching the ground.


Instruction: How is the damage from black pod disease different from normal ripening in cocoa?

Response: My friend, when black pod disease strikes, you'll see brown or black rotting patches on the pods. This is not like normal ripening, which turns the pods yellow or red. The thing is, infected pods spread the disease fast, so you must remove and bury them deep or burn them immediately. Today, check your trees and remove any suspicious pods.


Instruction: What makes black pod disease spread so fast compared to other cocoa diseases?

Response: Black pod disease spreads like fire in the dry season because it loves wet, humid, and shaded conditions. One infected pod can infect 10 others if you don't act fast. To slow it down, prune your trees regularly to improve airflow. This week, take your pruning knife and open up the canopy to let in more light and air.


Instruction: How does sanitation harvesting help control black pod disease?

Response: Sanitation harvesting is like cleaning up your farm to stop the disease from spreading. You remove diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood all at once. This breaks the cycle of infection. Don't leave any diseased material on the ground. Today, gather a sack and start collecting all the bad pods and deadwood from your farm.


Instruction: Why is pruning important for cocoa trees, especially during the rainy season?

Response: Pruning is very important because it allows light and air into the canopy, which reduces humidity. Black pod disease loves humid conditions, so by pruning, you make it harder for the disease to spread. After the next harvest, take your pruning knife and give your trees a good trim.


Instruction: What is the difference between mulching and pruning in cocoa farming?

Response: Mulching is when you cover the base of your cocoa trees with dead leaves to keep the soil moist and improve its health. Pruning is when you cut back the branches to let in more light and air. Both are important. This week, gather some dead leaves and mulch the base of your trees.


Instruction: How often should you apply copper-based fungicide for black pod disease?

Response: During the rainy season, you should apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. Don't wait until the disease appears—start applying it as soon as the rains begin. This week, get some fungicide and start your treatment.


Instruction: Why should you not establish new cocoa farms late in the rainy season?

Response: Establishing new farms late in the rainy season is risky because the wet conditions are perfect for black pod disease to spread. Young plants are more vulnerable. If you must plant, choose a spot with good drainage and plenty of sunlight. Today, check your farm and make sure any new plants are in the best possible spot.


Instruction: How does harvesting ripe pods every 2 weeks help prevent black pod disease?

Response: Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection for black pod disease. By harvesting ripe pods every 2 weeks, you remove potential sources of infection. This keeps your farm cleaner and healthier. Set a reminder to check your trees every 2 weeks and harvest any ripe pods you find.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause black pod disease for cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease is caused by two types of fungus: Phytophthora palmivora and Phytophthora megakarya. These fungi love wet, humid, and shaded conditions. To stop them, you must remove infected pods and prune your trees to improve airflow. Today, check your trees and remove any diseased pods.


Instruction: How is black pod disease different from other cocoa diseases like swollen shoot?

Response: Black pod disease attacks the pods, causing brown or black rotting patches. Swollen shoot disease affects the whole tree, making the shoots swell and the leaves turn yellow. Black pod disease spreads through wet conditions and infected pods, while swollen shoot is spread by mealybugs. Today, inspect your trees for any signs of disease and remove any infected pods.


Instruction: How do I stop plantain bunchy top from spreading to my other plants?

Response: My friend, first thing first: do not move any suckers from the infected plant to other parts of your farm. The virus hides inside the sucker even if you can't see it. Chop down the sick plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This week, check all your other plants carefully for any signs of dark green streaks or yellowing leaves.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don get short and stiff, na so so small and crowded for top. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, my brother, this one na banana bunchy top virus. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Do not try to treat it — there is no cure. Chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus from spreading. This week, check all your other plants and remove any that show similar symptoms.


Instruction: Can I save a plantain plant with bunchy top if I see it early?

Response: No, my friend, you cannot save a plant with bunchy top. The moment you see the short, stiff leaves or the dark green streaks, chop it down. Do not waste time or money trying to treat it. Inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This week, inspect all your plants and remove any infected ones immediately.


Instruction: Is it okay to use suckers from a farm that had bunchy top last season?

Response: No, do not use suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus hides inside the sucker and can infect your new plants. Always plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. This week, check your sucker source and make sure it is disease-free.


Instruction: What should I do if I find dark green streaks on my plantain leaves?

Response: Ah, this one na banana bunchy top virus. Do not wait — chop down the infected plant immediately. Inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This week, inspect all your plants and remove any that show similar symptoms to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: Can I treat plantain bunchy top with any chemicals?

Response: No, my friend, there is no chemical treatment for bunchy top. The moment you see the symptoms, chop down the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This week, check all your plants and remove any infected ones immediately.


Instruction: What is the worst mistake I can make with plantain bunchy top?

Response: The worst mistake is trying to save the infected plant or moving suckers from it. Do not do this. The virus will spread to your other plants. Chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This week, inspect all your plants and remove any that show symptoms.


Instruction: How can I prevent plantain bunchy top from coming to my farm?

Response: Do not bring suckers from farms that had bunchy top. Plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. This week, check your sucker source and make sure it is disease-free.


Instruction: My plantain leaves turn yellow and brown, na so so fast. How I go treat am?

Response: Ah, this one na banana bunchy top virus. Do not try to treat it — there is no cure. Chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This week, inspect all your plants and remove any that show similar symptoms.


Instruction: What should I do if I see banana aphids on my plantain plants?

Response: Banana aphids spread the bunchy top virus. Do not ignore them. Spray with insecticide to control the aphids and prevent the virus from spreading. This week, inspect your plants for aphids and treat them immediately if you find any.


Instruction: How do I know if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: My friend, check for dark brown spots on leaves. If flowers turn black and fall off, that's also anthracnose. On fruits, look for dark sunken spots. Today, go inspect your trees carefully.


Instruction: My mango leaves don get black spots, wetin dey cause am?

Response: That be anthracnose, a fungal disease. The thing is, it loves wet weather. First thing first, remove those spotted leaves and burn them. Then spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What should I do if my mango flowers are dying before fruiting?

Response: That's blossom blight from anthracnose. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How can I prevent anthracnose in my mango orchard?

Response: Prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation. Start spraying mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage.


Instruction: Why do my mangoes rot so quickly after harvest?

Response: Anthracnose fungus was already inside. Handle fruits carefully - wounds let the fungus in. Harvest gently, don't drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. Today, check your harvesting practices.


Instruction: When is the best time to prune mango trees?

Response: Always prune after harvest. This removes dead wood and improves air circulation which helps prevent anthracnose. This week, get your pruning tools ready.


Instruction: How often should I spray for anthracnose during rainy season?

Response: Every 10 days during rains. Use mancozeb or copper oxychloride, and always follow the label instructions carefully. Start spraying at flowering stage. This week, check your sprayer is working properly.


Instruction: What should I do with fallen mango leaves and fruits?

Response: Remove them regularly - they carry fungal spores. Burn them far from your orchard. This week, clear all fallen leaves and fruits from your mango orchard.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: Look for slight colour change at the tip for most varieties. Harvest carefully, don't drop them. Today, examine your fruits for maturity signs.


Instruction: My harvested mangoes turn black after 2 days, why?

Response: Anthracnose was already inside. Handle fruits very carefully - any wound lets the fungus in. Harvest gently, don't drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. This week, review your harvesting and storage practices.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: My friend, check your maize early morning or evening. Look for ragged holes in leaves that look like windowpanes. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That is the caterpillar droppings. If you see this, act fast.


Instruction: What can I do to stop fall armyworm from spreading?

Response: First thing first, scout your field early morning or evening. Check 10-20 plants per field. If you find the caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. Also, intercrop your maize with beans or soybean to reduce attacks.


Instruction: My maize don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: It could be fall armyworm, my friend. Check for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see these signs, you need to treat it quickly. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm from attacking my maize?

Response: Plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Also, intercrop with beans or soybean. This reduces fall armyworm attacks significantly. Always scout your field early morning or evening to catch infestations early.


Instruction: What is the best way to treat fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: For young caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl. This scratches and kills them. Neem-based sprays also work well in the first 2 weeks of infestation. If the infestation is severe, you may need to use chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos. Always follow the label dosage carefully.


Instruction: How often should I check my maize for fall armyworm?

Response: Check your maize early morning or evening, at least 2-3 times a week. This is when the caterpillars come to the surface. Scout 10-20 plants per field. If you find signs of infestation, act quickly to prevent spread.


Instruction: Why is my maize not growing well?

Response: It could be due to fall armyworm or poor farming practices. Check for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see these signs, treat it immediately. Also, ensure you plant at the right time, space properly, and apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits.


Instruction: How do I apply neem spray for fall armyworm?

Response: Neem spray works well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Mix the neem spray according to the instructions and spray it on the leaves and inside the whorl. This will help control the caterpillars. Always follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What chemicals can I use to control fall armyworm?

Response: For severe infestations, you can use chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos. Always follow the label dosage carefully. But first, try mixing fine sand with wood ash and applying it into the whorl. This is a cheaper and effective method.


Instruction: How can I improve my maize yield?

Response: Plant your maize at the right time for your area and space it properly at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. Apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting, half at knee height. Also, intercrop with beans or soybean to reduce fall armyworm attacks. Harvest promptly when dry to avoid post-harvest losses.


Instruction: How is groundnut rosette different from normal plant growth?

Response: My friend, groundnut rosette makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves. Normal growth is tall and healthy. The thing is, once you see this, uproot the plant immediately. No cure, I tell you.


Instruction: Why does early planting help avoid groundnut rosette?

Response: Early planting helps escape the peak aphid populations that come later. First thing first, plant at the very start of rains. This gives your groundnuts time to grow strong before the aphids arrive.


Instruction: What makes groundnut rosette so dangerous?

Response: This disease is deadly because it can cause total crop failure. It spreads fast through aphids and strikes early in the season. The thing is, there is no cure. Once a plant is infected, uproot it immediately.


Instruction: How is groundnut rosette spread compared to other diseases?

Response: Groundnut rosette is spread by the cowpea aphid. Unlike fungal diseases that spread through wind or rain, this virus needs the aphid to move from plant to plant. Control aphids to stop the disease.


Instruction: Why should I use resistant varieties for groundnut rosette?

Response: Resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23 can help you avoid the disease. They won't get infected even if aphids are around. Ask your extension officer for local resistant varieties.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut has rosette or just needs fertilizer?

Response: If your groundnut is stunted and has yellow, mottled leaves, it's rosette. Too much nitrogen makes leaves grow but not pods. The thing is, uproot infected plants immediately. For nitrogen, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause groundnut rosette?

Response: Groundnut rosette is caused by a virus spread by the cowpea aphid. It makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves. No need to panic, but uproot infected plants immediately.


Instruction: How is groundnut rosette different from leaf spot diseases?

Response: Leaf spot diseases cause spots on leaves, but groundnut rosette makes the whole plant stay small and bushy with yellow leaves. The thing is, once you see this, uproot the plant immediately. No cure, I tell you.


Instruction: Why is it important to weed my groundnut farm well?

Response: Weeds host aphids which spread groundnut rosette. By weeding well, you reduce the number of aphids that can move to your groundnut plants. The thing is, control aphids to stop the disease.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette compare to other viral diseases in groundnut?

Response: Groundnut rosette is one of the most deadly viral diseases. It causes severe stunting and can lead to total crop failure. Unlike other diseases, there is no cure. Once a plant is infected, uproot it immediately.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and curling up. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cowpea aphid attack. Those tiny black insects suck sap from your plants, causing yellowing and curling. First thing first, check your plants carefully for these pests. If you find them, spray neem oil mixed with soap to control them. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the spread.