Instruction: I see small black insects all over my cowpea flowers and pods. My plants look weak. What should I do?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids, and they're dangerous. They suck plant sap and spread viruses. You must act fast! Spray garlic solution or pyrethrin-based insecticide on your plants. Also, check nearby farms. If they have aphids, avoid planting downwind of them in your next crop.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are not growing well. Leaves have black mould. What is this?

Response: Ah, that black mould is sooty mould. It grows on the sticky honeydew that aphids leave behind. The aphids are the real problem. They suck plant sap and weaken your cowpeas. Spray neem oil mixed with soap to control the aphids and wash off the sooty mould with water.


Instruction: I no dey see cowpea aphid for my farm but my friend say I must spray. Is it true?

Response: Even if you no dey see aphids now, prevention is better than cure. Spray neem oil mixed with soap as a preventive measure. Also, intercrop your cowpea with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This will reduce aphid pressure. Plant early too, to escape peak aphid populations in the dry season.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting. I see small black insects. How I go treat am?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids, and they're causing your plants to wilt. You must act fast! Spray garlic solution or pyrethrin-based insecticide on your plants. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the spread. If the infestation is severe, you may need to use dimethoate foliar spray, but follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I planted cowpea next to a farm with aphids. Now my plants are weak. What can I do?

Response: My friend, you must have planted downwind of the infested farm. Aphids spread easily. Spray neem oil mixed with soap on your plants to control the aphids. Also, intercrop your cowpea with maize in a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. In the future, avoid planting next to infested farms.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea plants. They are everywhere. What is happening?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids, and they're dangerous. They suck plant sap and spread viruses. You must act fast! Spray garlic solution or pyrethrin-based insecticide on your plants. Also, check nearby farms. If they have aphids, avoid planting downwind of them in your next crop.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are sticky and have black mould. What is this?

Response: Ah, that sticky substance is honeydew from cowpea aphids. The black mould grows on it. The aphids are the real problem. They suck plant sap and weaken your cowpeas. Spray neem oil mixed with soap to control the aphids and wash off the sooty mould with water.


Instruction: I no dey see cowpea aphid for my farm but my neighbour say I must spray. Is it true?

Response: Even if you no dey see aphids now, prevention is better than cure. Spray neem oil mixed with soap as a preventive measure. Also, intercrop your cowpea with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This will reduce aphid pressure. Plant early too, to escape peak aphid populations in the dry season.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are not growing well. Leaves have black mould. What is this?

Response: Ah, that black mould is sooty mould. It grows on the sticky honeydew that aphids leave behind. The aphids are the real problem. They suck plant sap and weaken your cowpeas. Spray neem oil mixed with soap to control the aphids and wash off the sooty mould with water. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: What should I do if I see small black insects clustering on my cowpea leaves?

Response: My friend, those might be cowpea aphids. They suck sap and spread disease. First thing first, check your whole farm. If you see only a few, spray neem oil mixed with soap. If it's bad, use pyrethrin insecticide. But remember, ladybird beetles are your friends — they eat aphids!


Instruction: How can I stop aphids from attacking my cowpea plants?

Response: The thing is, aphids love cowpea. But you can outsmart them! Plant your cowpea early in the season. Also, mix it with maize at 4 plants of maize to 1 of cowpea. This reduces aphid pressure. And never plant downwind of an infested farm.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and wilting. What is the problem?

Response: That sounds like aphid damage. They suck sap and spread viruses. Check for small black insects on leaves and pods. If you see them, act fast! Spray neem oil with soap or garlic spray. Remove badly affected plants to stop the spread.


Instruction: Can I use chemical sprays to control cowpea aphids?

Response: Only as a last resort, my friend. Try natural methods first like neem oil or garlic spray. If you must use chemicals, imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray can work. But follow the label instructions carefully!


Instruction: How do I know if my cowpea has aphids?

Response: Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects clustered on young shoots, flowers, or pods. You might also see sticky honeydew on leaves, which turns black with sooty mould. If you see these signs, act fast to control the aphids!


Instruction: Wetin I go do if my cowpea don spoil because of small black insects?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. Those are likely cowpea aphids. First, remove the badly affected plants. Then spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. If it's too late, plant early next time to avoid peak aphid season.


Instruction: Is there a natural way to control aphids on my cowpea?

Response: Yes, my friend! Neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray works well. Also, protect ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps — they eat aphids. Intercropping with maize at 4:1 ratio also helps reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: How can I prevent aphids from attacking my cowpea next season?

Response: Plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. Avoid planting downwind of infested farms. And remember, cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, so it's good for your farm's fertility!


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are sticky and have black mould. What is happening?

Response: That sticky stuff is honeydew from aphids. The black mould is sooty mould growing on the honeydew. Aphids are bad news — they spread viruses and weaken plants. Spray neem oil with soap or garlic spray to control them.


Instruction: Can I plant cowpea alone or should I mix it with other crops?

Response: Mixing is better, my friend! Intercrop cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure and improves soil fertility. Cowpea fixes nitrogen, so it's good for the next crop you plant on that land.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: My friend, check your leaves. If you see yellow and green patches like a mosaic, or leaves curling and twisting, that's mosaic disease. Don't wait — pull those plants and burn them right away. Then check nearby plants for signs.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don get small small yellow and green patches. Na mosaic disease?

Response: Ah, that sounds like mosaic disease, my friend. The thing is, those yellow and green patches are a big sign. First thing first, pull out the infected plants and burn them. Then check other plants and remove any with the same signs.


Instruction: Why my cassava tubers small small when others for my neighbour big big?

Response: Maybe your plants have mosaic disease. When plants get this disease, their tubers don't grow well. Check your leaves for yellow and green patches. If you see them, remove those plants immediately. Also, space your plants well — 1 metre by 1 metre — so they grow big and healthy.


Instruction: How I go prevent mosaic disease for my cassava farm?

Response: First, always use disease-free stems from healthy plants. That's the most important thing. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. And don't replant stems from a farm that had mosaic.


Instruction: What is the difference between healthy cassava leaves and mosaic-infected ones?

Response: Healthy cassava leaves are green and smooth. But mosaic-infected leaves have yellow and green patches, like a mosaic pattern. They also curl and twist. If you see these signs, remove the plant immediately to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: Why my neighbour's cassava farm no get mosaic but mine get am?

Response: Maybe your neighbour uses disease-free stems or plants resistant varieties. Check your stems — are they from a healthy farm? Also, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. And always remove infected plants immediately.


Instruction: How I go know if my cassava stems get mosaic disease?

Response: You can't see mosaic disease on the stems. But if you plant infected stems, your leaves will show yellow and green patches. So, always use stems from healthy plants. And plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572.


Instruction: What is the difference between mosaic disease and healthy cassava plants?

Response: Healthy cassava plants have green, smooth leaves and grow well. But plants with mosaic disease have yellow and green patches on the leaves, and the leaves curl and twist. The tubers also grow small and deformed. If you see these signs, remove the plants immediately.


Instruction: Why my cassava leaves get yellow and green patches but my neighbour's no get?

Response: That's mosaic disease, my friend. Maybe your neighbour uses disease-free stems or plants resistant varieties. Check your stems — are they from a healthy farm? Also, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. And always remove infected plants immediately.


Instruction: How I go stop whiteflies from spreading mosaic disease?

Response: Use neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm. These will help control the whiteflies that spread the disease. Also, always remove and destroy infected plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading further.


Instruction: My cassava leaves look like they have been painted with yellow and green patches. What is wrong?

Response: My friend, this is cassava mosaic disease. The virus spreads by whiteflies and causes those ugly patterns. First thing first, uproot and burn any infected plants right away. Then use neem spray or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant resistant varieties like TME 419.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cassava leaves to curl and twist like dis?

Response: Ah, that curling and twisting is cassava mosaic disease. The virus spreads by whiteflies. You must remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Also, use disease-free stems for planting next time. This is very important.


Instruction: The leaves on my cassava plants have strange patterns and are not growing well. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, those patterns are cassava mosaic disease. The virus causes the leaves to look patchy and grow poorly. You must remove and burn infected plants right away. Also, plant resistant varieties next time. Do not reuse stems from this farm.


Instruction: My cassava plants have yellow and green patches on the leaves. What should I do?

Response: That is cassava mosaic disease. The virus spreads by whiteflies. First, remove and destroy the infected plants. Then, use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572.


Instruction: I see some of my cassava leaves have a mix of yellow and green colors. What is this?

Response: That is cassava mosaic disease. The virus spreads by whiteflies. You must remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Also, use disease-free stems for planting next time. This is very important.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and have yellow spots. What is the problem?

Response: That is cassava mosaic disease. The virus spreads by whiteflies. You must remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Also, use neem spray or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant resistant varieties.


Instruction: The leaves on my cassava plants are twisted and have yellow patches. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, that is cassava mosaic disease. The virus spreads by whiteflies. You must remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Also, use disease-free stems for planting next time. This is very important.


Instruction: My cassava plants have leaves that are yellow and green. What is wrong?

Response: That is cassava mosaic disease. The virus spreads by whiteflies. You must remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Also, use neem spray or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant resistant varieties.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cassava leaves to turn yellow and green?

Response: Ah, that is cassava mosaic disease. The virus spreads by whiteflies. You must remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Also, use disease-free stems for planting next time. This is very important.


Instruction: The leaves on my cassava plants are twisted and have yellow spots. What is the problem?

Response: That is cassava mosaic disease. The virus spreads by whiteflies. You must remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Also, use neem spray or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant resistant varieties.


Instruction: When should I prune my cocoa trees?

Response: My friend, first thing first — always prune your cocoa trees after each harvest. This lets light and air reach the canopy. Don't wait too long, or the trees may suffer.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my cocoa pods?

Response: You must harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks. Overstay pods become a big source of black pod disease. Don't let them stay too long on the tree.


Instruction: Wetin be the best time to plant new cocoa trees?

Response: No need to plant new cocoa trees too late in the rainy season. The thing is, young trees need time to establish before the heavy rains come.


Instruction: Can I prune my cocoa trees during the rainy season?

Response: Yes, you can prune during the rainy season. In fact, it's good to do it after harvest. But remember, pruning helps reduce humidity in the farm, which is very important for fighting black pod disease.


Instruction: When should I apply fungicide to my cocoa trees?

Response: Apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully, my friend.


Instruction: How often should I do sanitation harvesting?

Response: Do sanitation harvesting as soon as you see diseased pods, mummified pods, or deadwood. Don't wait, because one infected pod can spread the disease very fast.


Instruction: Is it okay to leave diseased pods on the ground?

Response: No, never leave diseased pods on the ground. You must remove and bury them deeply or burn them. This stops the disease from spreading to other pods.


Instruction: When should I mulch the base of my cocoa trees?

Response: Mulch the base of your trees with dead leaves to retain moisture and improve soil. You can do this any time, but it's especially good after pruning.


Instruction: Can I harvest cocoa pods when it's raining?

Response: Yes, you can harvest during the rain, but be careful. Wet pods can rot faster, so harvest them quickly and store them properly. Don't let them stay too long on the tree.


Instruction: How long should I wait before treating black pod disease?

Response: Don't wait at all! As soon as you see black or brown rotting patches on the pods, start treatment. Remove the infected pods and apply fungicide. The longer you wait, the more pods you will lose.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are turning brown and have rings. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. The dark brown spots with rings mean the disease is starting. First thing first, remove those leaves and burn them — don't compost. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rain. Also, water the base, not the leaves, to keep them dry.


Instruction: Help! My tomato plants suddenly have big brown patches and are dying fast. What do I do?

Response: This is likely late blight, very dangerous in wet weather. Act fast — remove and burn all infected parts immediately. Spray chlorothalonil or copper fungicide right away, and keep doing it every 7 days. Also, stake your plants to improve airflow and dry the foliage faster.


Instruction: My tomatoes are getting spots and the weather is wet. How do I stop this?

Response: Wet weather spreads blight fast. Remove any spotted leaves and burn them. Spray mancozeb or copper fungicide now and every week until the rain stops. Also, water only at the base of plants to keep leaves dry. Rotate your tomato plot next season with maize or cowpea.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are getting wet spots and turning brown. Is this blight?

Response: Yes, this is likely blight. The wet spots turning brown mean it's spreading fast. Remove and burn infected leaves now. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide today and every week. Also, stake your plants to keep them off the ground and improve airflow.


Instruction: My tomato plants are dying fast after heavy rain. What is the problem?

Response: This is late blight, very common after rain. Act quickly — remove and burn all infected parts. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide now and every 7 days. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage and reduce soil splash onto leaves.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have brown spots with rings. How I go treat am?

Response: This is early blight. First, remove and burn the spotted leaves. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Also, water at the base, not the leaves, to keep them dry. Rotate your tomato plot next season with maize or cowpea.


Instruction: My tomato plants are getting brown patches fast. What is happening?

Response: This is likely late blight, which spreads quickly in wet weather. Remove and burn all infected parts now. Spray chlorothalonil or copper fungicide today and every week. Also, stake your plants to keep them off the ground and improve airflow.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are getting brown spots and the weather is wet. What do I do?

Response: This is blight, and wet weather makes it worse. Remove and burn the spotted leaves immediately. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide now and every week. Also, water at the base of plants to keep leaves dry. Rotate your tomato plot next season with maize or cowpea.


Instruction: My tomato plants are dying fast after rain. What is the problem?

Response: This is late blight, which spreads very fast in wet weather. Act quickly — remove and burn all infected parts. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide today and every 7 days. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage and reduce soil splash onto leaves.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are getting wet spots and turning brown. Is this blight?

Response: Yes, this is likely blight. The wet spots turning brown mean it's spreading fast. Remove and burn infected leaves now. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide today and every week. Also, stake your plants to keep them off the ground and improve airflow.


Instruction: When should I start staking my tomato plants?

Response: My friend, stake your tomato plants when they reach about 30 cm tall. This keeps the fruits and leaves off the ground, helping prevent disease. Check your plants this week and set up stakes if they're tall enough.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my tomatoes?

Response: Harvest your tomatoes every 2 to 3 days. Don't wait too long or the ripe fruits will attract pests and diseases. Pick them regularly to keep your plants healthy.


Instruction: When is the best time to apply calcium nitrate to my tomato plants?

Response: Apply calcium nitrate when your tomato plants start to flower. This gives them the nutrients they need for strong growth. Check your plants this week and apply if you see flowers.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil fast, wetin I do?

Response: The thing is, if your tomatoes are spoiling fast, it might be disease. Check the leaves for dark spots or brown patches. If you see any, remove and burn those leaves right away. Also, spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season.


Instruction: At what time of day should I water my tomato plants?

Response: Water your tomato plants in the morning, always at the base of the plants. This keeps the leaves dry and helps prevent disease. Avoid watering in the evening or at night.


Instruction: How often should I spray fungicide on my tomato plants during the rainy season?

Response: Spray fungicide like mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. This helps prevent blight. Follow the label instructions carefully and start spraying if you haven't already.


Instruction: When should I rotate my tomato planting area?

Response: Never plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. Rotate with maize or cowpea. If you've planted tomatoes in the same spot for two seasons, plan to move them to a new area next season.


Instruction: How long should I wait before planting tomatoes again in the same plot?

Response: Wait at least one season before planting tomatoes again in the same plot. Rotate with maize or cowpea to help prevent disease. Plan your crop rotation now to keep your soil healthy.


Instruction: When should I remove and destroy infected leaves from my tomato plants?

Response: Remove and destroy infected leaves at the first sign of disease. Bag them and burn them, don't compost them. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves you find.


Instruction: How soon after planting should I apply balanced NPK fertilizer?

Response: Apply balanced NPK fertilizer at planting time. This gives your tomato plants the nutrients they need to grow strong. If you haven't planted yet, make sure to apply NPK fertilizer when you do.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange spots with grey centers and brown edges. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. The fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. First thing first, stop adding nitrogen fertilizer. You can spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away. Next week, check your water levels too.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis one for my rice farm? My leaves get small brown spots and my stalks dey fall down.

Response: Ah, this is rice blast disease. The fungus attacks both leaves and stalks. The fallen stalks mean you have neck blast, which is very bad. You must act fast. Spray fungicide now and plant resistant varieties like NERICA next season. Burn your straw after harvest to stop the fungus from coming back.


Instruction: What are the signs of rice blast disease?

Response: Rice blast shows up as diamond or spindle-shaped spots on leaves with grey centers and brown edges. The worst form is neck blast, where the grain-bearing stalk falls over. If you see these signs, spray fungicide immediately and check your nitrogen use. Too much nitrogen feeds the fungus.


Instruction: How do I know if my rice has blast disease?

Response: Look for small, diamond-shaped spots on leaves with grey centers and brown edges. If your stalks are falling over, that's neck blast. This is very serious. Spray fungicide right away and make sure you're not overusing nitrogen. Next season, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or FARO 57.


Instruction: My rice stalks are falling over before harvest. What could be the problem?

Response: This is neck blast, the worst form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall. You need to spray fungicide at the boot stage next time to prevent this. For now, remove and burn the affected plants to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: What does rice blast look like on leaves?

Response: Rice blast on leaves looks like small, diamond or spindle-shaped spots with grey or white centers and brown or reddish edges. If you see these spots, spray fungicide right away and check your nitrogen use. Too much nitrogen makes the disease worse.


Instruction: How can I tell if my rice has blast disease?

Response: Check your leaves for small, diamond-shaped spots with grey centers and brown edges. If your stalks are falling over, that's neck blast. Both mean you have rice blast. Spray fungicide now and make sure you're not overusing nitrogen. Next season, plant resistant varieties.


Instruction: My rice leaves have brown spots with grey centers. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is rice blast disease. The fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. Stop adding nitrogen and spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away. Also, make sure your water levels are steady—no drying and flooding alternately.


Instruction: What are the symptoms of rice blast?

Response: Rice blast shows up as diamond or spindle-shaped spots on leaves with grey centers and brown edges. The worst form is neck blast, where the grain-bearing stalk falls over. If you see these signs, spray fungicide immediately and check your nitrogen use. Too much nitrogen feeds the fungus.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over. What is happening?

Response: This is neck blast, the worst form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall. You need to spray fungicide at the boot stage next time to prevent this. For now, remove and burn the affected plants to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: How is black pod disease different from healthy cocoa pods?

Response: My friend, black pod disease shows as brown or black rotting patches on cocoa pods. Healthy pods stay firm and green or yellow depending on the variety. The thing is, infected pods spread the disease fast, so first thing first, remove and bury or burn any you see.


Instruction: Which is worse for cocoa, black pod disease or poor pruning?

Response: Black pod disease is worse, my friend. It can destroy up to one third of your harvest in a bad season. Poor pruning makes it worse by creating shade and humidity where the disease spreads fast. So, prune your trees regularly to let in light and air.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause black pod disease for cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease is caused by fungus called Phytophthora palmivora and Phytophthora megakarya. It spreads fast in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. One infected pod can infect 10 others, so remove and bury or burn any you see right away.


Instruction: How does sanitation harvesting compare to regular harvesting?

Response: Sanitation harvesting is different from regular harvesting. In sanitation harvesting, you remove diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood all at once. This helps stop the spread of black pod disease. Regular harvesting is when you pick ripe pods every 2 weeks. Do both to keep your farm healthy.


Instruction: What is the difference between pruning for black pod disease and pruning for general tree health?

Response: Pruning for black pod disease focuses on improving airflow and reducing humidity inside the farm. This slows the spread of the disease. General pruning is for letting in light and air to keep the trees healthy. Do both regularly, especially after each harvest.


Instruction: How does mulching help with black pod disease?

Response: Mulching helps retain moisture in the soil, which is good for the trees. But too much moisture can create humid conditions that spread black pod disease. So, mulch the base of trees with dead leaves, but also prune regularly to let in light and air. This balance keeps your farm healthy.


Instruction: Why is it important to harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks?

Response: Harvesting ripe pods every 2 weeks is important because overstay pods are the biggest source of black pod disease. The fungus spreads fast, so pick your pods regularly. This way, you stop the disease before it starts. Also, remove and bury or burn any infected pods you see.


Instruction: How does establishing a new farm late in the rainy season affect black pod disease?

Response: Establishing a new farm late in the rainy season is risky because black pod disease spreads fast in wet conditions. The fungus loves humidity, so plant your new farm early in the season. This gives your trees time to grow strong before the heavy rains come.


Instruction: What is the difference between copper-based fungicide and other treatments for black pod disease?

Response: Copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox is one of the few treatments that works against black pod disease. Other treatments may not be as effective. Apply it during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks, but always follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remove and bury or burn any infected pods you see.


Instruction: How does black pod disease compare to other cocoa diseases in terms of spread?

Response: Black pod disease spreads extremely fast, especially in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. One infected pod can infect 10 others. Other cocoa diseases may not spread as quickly. So, first thing first, remove and bury or burn any infected pods you see to stop the spread.


Instruction: My tomato leaves don show small brown spots with circles inside. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. The dark brown spots with concentric rings and yellow halo are classic signs. First thing first, remove and destroy those infected leaves immediately — bag and burn them, don't compost. Also, avoid wetting the leaves when watering.


Instruction: I notice grey-green patches on my tomato leaves that turn brown quickly. What could be the problem?

Response: This is likely late blight, a very serious disease. The patches spread fast in wet weather and can destroy your plants in days. Remove and burn infected leaves right away. Also, avoid overhead watering and keep your plants dry.


Instruction: My tomato plants have brown spots starting from the bottom leaves. How do I identify the disease?

Response: Those brown spots with concentric rings and yellow halos are signs of early blight. It starts from the lower, older leaves. Remove and destroy the infected leaves immediately to stop it from spreading. Always keep your plants dry and well-spaced.


Instruction: What causes the sudden wilting and brown patches on my tomato plants during the rainy season?

Response: This could be late blight, which spreads quickly in wet, cool conditions. The water-soaked patches turn brown and can kill plants fast. Remove and burn infected parts right away. Avoid overhead watering and rotate your tomato plot next season.


Instruction: I see dark spots on my tomato leaves. Is this a disease or just normal?

Response: Dark spots with concentric rings and yellow halos are not normal — this is early blight. Remove and destroy the infected leaves immediately. Also, make sure your plants have good airflow and avoid wetting the leaves when watering.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have greyish-green patches that turn brown. What is this disease?

Response: This is late blight, a very dangerous disease that spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn the infected leaves right away. Keep your plants dry and well-spaced to prevent further spread.


Instruction: How can I tell if my tomato plants have blight?

Response: Blight shows as dark brown spots with rings on older leaves for early blight, or grey-green patches turning brown for late blight. Remove and destroy infected leaves immediately. Keep your plants dry and well-spaced to prevent the disease from spreading.


Instruction: My tomato leaves don get brown spots with circles. How I go treat am?

Response: Those spots with circles are early blight. First, remove and destroy the infected leaves by burning them. Also, avoid wetting the leaves when watering and make sure your plants have good airflow.


Instruction: What do I do if my tomato plants have brown patches that spread quickly?

Response: This is likely late blight, which spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn the infected parts immediately. Avoid overhead watering and rotate your tomato plot next season to prevent the disease from coming back.


Instruction: My tomato leaves don show grey-green patches that turn brown. Wetin I go do?

Response: This is late blight, a very serious disease. Remove and destroy the infected leaves right away. Keep your plants dry and well-spaced to stop the disease from spreading. Also, avoid planting tomatoes in the same plot next season.


Instruction: How do I know if my mango tree has anthracnose or just normal leaf spots?

Response: My friend, anthracnose spots are dark brown and irregular, not round like normal leaf spots. The thing is, if you see these spots on flowers or fruits, that's definitely anthracnose. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fruits from the tree and ground.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause mango fruit go black after I harvest am?

Response: The fungus called anthracnose was already inside the fruit before you picked it. It grows fast when the fruit ripens, making it turn black. The thing is, you can't see it until the fruit starts rotting. To prevent this, harvest carefully and store fruits in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: Why does anthracnose affect my mangoes more during the rainy season?

Response: Anthracnose loves high humidity and frequent rain, just like we do during the rainy season. The fungus spreads quickly in this weather. To fight it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: How is anthracnose different from other mango diseases?

Response: Anthracnose is unique because it attacks leaves, flowers, and fruits. On fruits, it causes dark sunken lesions that expand rapidly after harvest. Other diseases may not affect all parts of the tree like this. First thing first, prune your tree to remove dead wood and improve air circulation.


Instruction: What's the difference between anthracnose and normal fruit bruises?

Response: Anthracnose lesions are dark and sunken, while bruises are usually just discoloured without sinking. The thing is, bruises can let anthracnose in, so handle fruits carefully. Harvest gently and store in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: How can I tell if my mango tree has anthracnose or just lacking nutrients?

Response: Anthracnose causes dark brown irregular spots on leaves, while nutrient deficiency often causes yellowing or pale leaves. If you see blossom blight or fruit lesions, that's definitely anthracnose. First thing first, remove all infected parts from the tree and ground.


Instruction: Why do my mangoes look fine on the tree but rot quickly after picking?

Response: The anthracnose fungus was already inside the fruit before you picked it. It grows fast when the fruit ripens, making it rot quickly. The thing is, you can't see it until the fruit starts rotting. To prevent this, harvest carefully and store fruits in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: How is anthracnose different from other mango fruit diseases?

Response: Anthracnose causes dark sunken lesions that expand rapidly after harvest. Other diseases may not cause such rapid rotting after picking. First thing first, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage to prevent it.


Instruction: What's the difference between anthracnose and mango scab?

Response: Anthracnose causes dark brown irregular spots and sunken lesions, while mango scab causes rough, scabby patches. The thing is, both are fungal diseases. First thing first, prune your tree to remove dead wood and improve air circulation.


Instruction: How can I tell if my mango tree has anthracnose or just sunburn?

Response: Anthracnose causes dark brown irregular spots, while sunburn causes light brown or white patches. The thing is, sunburn usually happens on the side of the fruit facing the sun. First thing first, remove all infected parts from the tree and ground.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and curling up. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cowpea aphids. They suck sap from leaves, causing yellowing and curling. First thing first, check the undersides of leaves for tiny black or brown insects. If you find them, mix neem oil with soap and spray on the plants. This will help control the aphids before they spread.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea plant to wilt and stop growing?

Response: The thing is, if your cowpea plants are wilting and not growing, it could be cowpea aphids. They suck the sap from the plants, making them weak. Look for small black or brown insects on the young shoots and flowers. If you see them, make a garlic spray or use neem oil mixed with soap to control them.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea flowers. The leaves have sticky stuff on them. What is this?

Response: Those small black insects are cowpea aphids. The sticky stuff is called honeydew, which they produce. This honeydew can cause black sooty mould to grow on the leaves. To control the aphids, you can use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: My cowpea plants have black mould on the leaves. What should I do?

Response: The black mould is likely caused by honeydew from cowpea aphids. These tiny insects suck sap from the plants and leave behind sticky honeydew, which encourages mould growth. Check for aphids on the young shoots and flowers. To control them, use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and hoverflies, as they feed on aphids.


Instruction: Why are my cowpea pods not forming properly?

Response: If your cowpea pods are not forming well, it might be because of cowpea aphids. They cluster on flowers and pods, sucking sap and causing damage. Look for small black or brown insects on the plants. To control them, use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: I planted cowpea but the plants are stunted and have yellow leaves. What is the problem?

Response: Stunted growth and yellow leaves in cowpea are often signs of cowpea aphids. These tiny insects suck sap from the plants, causing them to weaken. Check for small black or brown insects on the young shoots and flowers. To control them, use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, plant early to escape peak aphid populations.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are covered in a black substance. What is this and how do I fix it?

Response: The black substance on your cowpea leaves is likely black sooty mould, caused by honeydew from cowpea aphids. These tiny insects suck sap from the plants and leave behind sticky honeydew, which encourages mould growth. To control the aphids, use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: I notice small brown insects on my cowpea shoots. The leaves are curling. What do I do?

Response: Those small brown insects are cowpea aphids, and they cause leaves to curl by sucking sap from the plants. To control them, use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. This will help keep your cowpea plants healthy.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting and have small black insects on them. How do I treat this?

Response: The small black insects are cowpea aphids, and they cause wilting by sucking sap from the plants. To control them, use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread. This will help your cowpea plants recover.


Instruction: I see tiny black bugs on my cowpea flowers. The plants are not growing well. What should I do?

Response: Those tiny black bugs are cowpea aphids, and they cause poor growth by sucking sap from the plants. To control them, use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, plant early to escape peak aphid populations. This will help your cowpea plants grow better.


Instruction: How I go know if cowpea aphid don attack my farm?

Response: My friend, if you see small black or brown insects clustering on your cowpea leaves, flowers or pods, that's cowpea aphid. The leaves may curl, turn yellow or wilt. You might also see sticky honeydew on the leaves. First thing first, check your plants closely today.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves don turn yellow and wilt, wetin dey cause am?

Response: The thing is, yellowing and wilting leaves could be cowpea aphid. These tiny black or brown insects suck sap from your plants. They also leave sticky honeydew that makes black mould grow on leaves. Check your plants carefully and if you see these insects, you must act fast.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from destroying my farm?

Response: To stop cowpea aphids, mix neem oil with soap and spray on your plants. Garlic spray also works well. If the infestation is very bad, you can use pyrethrin-based insecticide. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: Is it true that planting cowpea with maize can help with cowpea aphids?

Response: Yes, my friend, it's true. Intercropping cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio can reduce aphid pressure. The maize plants create a barrier and confuse the aphids. This is a good practice to start with your next planting season.


Instruction: What time of the year is best to plant cowpea to avoid aphids?

Response: Plant your cowpea early in the season to escape the peak aphid populations that come in the dry season. Early planting gives your plants a better chance to grow strong before the aphids become too numerous. Plan your planting schedule accordingly.


Instruction: Can cowpea aphids spread diseases to my plants?

Response: Yes, cowpea aphids spread more than 30 plant viruses. Even a small infestation is a big threat because it can quickly spread diseases to your plants. Check your plants regularly and take action at the first sign of aphids.


Instruction: What natural enemies of cowpea aphids should I protect?

Response: Ladybird beetles, hoverflies and parasitic wasps are natural enemies of cowpea aphids. They feed on aphids and help control their population. Avoid using broad-spectrum insecticides that kill these beneficial insects. Encourage them to stay on your farm.


Instruction: How can I improve my soil fertility with cowpea?

Response: Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, which improves fertility for the next crop planted on that land. This is a great way to naturally enrich your soil. Plan to rotate your crops and include cowpea in your farming schedule.


Instruction: What should I do if my cowpea farm is next to an infested farm?

Response: If your farm is next to an infested farm, avoid planting downwind of the infested area. This can help reduce the risk of aphids spreading to your plants. Also, monitor your plants closely and take action at the first sign of aphids.


Instruction: Is it safe to use chemical insecticides on cowpea aphids?

Response: Chemical insecticides should be a last resort. If you must use them, imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray can be effective. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Try natural methods first, like neem oil or garlic spray.


Instruction: My tomato leaves get dark spots with rings, what is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. The thing is, it starts on lower leaves and spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, pick and burn all infected leaves today. Do not compost them. Next week, spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause am for my tomato leaves get wet-like spots den turn brown?

Response: Ah, this one sounds like late blight. It spreads like fire in wet, cool weather. The thing is, it can destroy your whole farm in days. First thing first, pick and burn all bad leaves and plant parts today. Do not compost them. Next week, spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Should I water my tomato plants from above?

Response: No, no, no! Watering from above keeps leaves wet and invites disease. Always water at the base of the plants to keep foliage dry. Do this today and every time you water.


Instruction: Can I plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row?

Response: No, my friend. Never plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. This invites disease. Rotate with maize or cowpea next season. Start planning your crop rotation today.


Instruction: Is it okay if my tomato plants touch the ground?

Response: No, no, no! Keep your tomato plants off the ground. Stake or cage them at 30 cm height today. This keeps fruits and foliage clean and healthy.


Instruction: What should I do if I see blight on my tomato plants?

Response: First thing first, pick and burn all infected leaves and plant parts today. Do not compost them. Then, spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rainy season, follow the label instructions carefully. Do this today.


Instruction: Can I leave ripe tomatoes on the plant for many days?

Response: No, my friend. Never leave ripe fruits on the plant for many days. This invites pests and disease. Harvest every 2 to 3 days. Start a regular harvesting schedule today.


Instruction: Should I plant my tomatoes close together?

Response: No, no, no! Plant tomatoes at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows for good airflow. Do this today when you next plant.


Instruction: Is it okay to plant tomatoes in low areas where water collects?

Response: No, my friend. Plant tomatoes on raised beds or ridges to improve drainage. Do this today if you are preparing a new plot.


Instruction: Can I compost leaves with blight spots?

Response: No, no, no! Never compost infected leaves. Pick and burn all leaves with blight spots today. Do not compost them.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, this could be rice blast disease. Look for diamond or spindle-shaped spots with grey centres and brown edges. If you see this, act fast. Spray with tricyclazole or similar fungicide today, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice plant to fall down?

Response: This could be neck blast, a bad form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, making it fall over. First thing first, check for other signs on the leaves. If you see them, spray fungicide now, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see grey spots with brown edges on my rice leaves. What is this?

Response: This is likely rice blast disease. The fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. Check your fertilizer use. If you see these spots, spray fungicide like isoprothiolane today, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My rice plants have spindle-shaped lesions. What is happening?

Response: This is rice blast disease. The fungus thrives in high humidity and cool nights. If you see these lesions, spray fungicide like propiconazole at once, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What causes the grey centres and brown edges on my rice leaves?

Response: This is rice blast disease. The fungus loves when nights are cool and humid. If you see this, spray fungicide like tricyclazole today, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why are my rice plants falling over before harvest?

Response: This could be neck blast, a severe form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk. Check for other signs on the leaves. If you see them, spray fungicide now, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My rice leaves have diamond-shaped spots. What is this?

Response: This is rice blast disease. The fungus spreads fast in cool, humid weather. If you see these spots, spray fungicide like isoprothiolane today, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What is the disease with grey spots and brown edges on rice leaves?

Response: This is rice blast disease. The fungus loves too much nitrogen. Check your fertilizer use. If you see these spots, spray fungicide like propiconazole now, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why do my rice plants have spindle-shaped lesions?

Response: This is rice blast disease. The fungus spreads fast in high humidity. If you see these lesions, spray fungicide like tricyclazole today, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What causes the grey centres and brown edges on my rice leaves?

Response: This is rice blast disease. The fungus thrives in cool nights and too much nitrogen. If you see this, spray fungicide like isoprothiolane today, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How do I stop cassava mosaic from spreading in my farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first: remove and burn any plants with yellow patches or curled leaves. The thing is, that virus spreads fast through whiteflies. Use neem spray or yellow sticky traps to control them. Next week, check your farm and remove any new infected plants you find.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don get yellow and green patches. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, that sounds like cassava mosaic disease. Whiteflies spread the virus from plant to plant. The bad news is, there's no cure once it starts. But you can stop it spreading! Cut down and burn the infected plants today. And next time, plant disease-resistant varieties like TME 419.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to grow cassava with good yield?

Response: Cassava is very forgiving, but for good yield, plant at the start of rains and space plants 1 metre apart. Weed well for the first 3 months, then the cassava will shade out weeds. Use mounding to improve drainage and tuber size. If you can afford it, add potassium fertilizer for even better results.


Instruction: How can I save money when planting cassava?

Response: The best way to save money is to use your own stems from healthy plants. Never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic disease. Also, spacing plants 1 metre apart makes weeding easier and saves you time and effort. Start with healthy stems and good spacing, and you'll save money in the long run.


Instruction: What should I do if I see whiteflies in my cassava farm?

Response: Whiteflies spread cassava mosaic disease, so you must control them. Make neem spray by soaking neem seeds in water overnight, then spray it on your plants. You can also use yellow sticky traps around the farm to catch them. Check your farm this week and start controlling whiteflies before they spread the virus.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: Look for yellow and green patches on the leaves, or leaves that curl and look distorted. Severely affected plants will have small, deformed tubers. If you see these signs, remove and burn the plants immediately to stop the disease spreading. Next time, plant resistant varieties to avoid this problem.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cassava for good growth?

Response: Plant cassava at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants enough water to establish well. Spacing plants 1 metre apart helps with weeding and gives the tubers room to grow. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Plant at the start of rains and space well for the best growth.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don curl and look funny. How I go treat am?

Response: Ah, that sounds like cassava mosaic disease. There's no treatment once the plant is infected. But you can stop it spreading! Cut down and burn the infected plants today. Next time, plant disease-resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. And always use healthy stems from farms that never had mosaic.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cassava mosaic disease on my farm?

Response: The best way to prevent mosaic disease is to use healthy planting stems from farms that never had the disease. Also, control whiteflies with neem spray or yellow sticky traps. Remove and burn any infected plants immediately. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419 for extra protection. Start with healthy stems and control whiteflies to prevent the disease.


Instruction: How can I grow cassava without spending much money?

Response: Cassava is very hardy and grows well even in poor soils. Use your own stems from healthy plants, and space them 1 metre apart for easy weeding. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Weed well for the first 3 months, then the cassava will shade out weeds. Use your own stems and space well to grow cassava without spending much money.


Instruction: How can I stop cassava mosaic disease from ruining my farm?

Response: My friend, prevention is key. First thing first, get stems from healthy plants only. Never use stems from a farm that had mosaic. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419. Keep your farm clean by removing and destroying infected plants quickly. Use neem sprays or yellow sticky traps to control whiteflies. This week, check your farm for any infected plants and remove them immediately.


Instruction: What can I do to keep my cassava plants healthy?

Response: To keep your cassava healthy, plant at the start of the rainy season. Space them 1 metre apart for good growth. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage. Use potassium fertilizer if you have it. Check your plants often for signs of disease and remove any infected ones right away.


Instruction: My cassava don dey get yellow and green patches, how I go prevent dis problem?

Response: Wetin you dey see is cassava mosaic disease. To stop it, first remove and destroy the infected plants. Get stems for planting from healthy plants only. Plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. This week, check all your plants and remove any with mosaic patterns.


Instruction: How do I prevent cassava mosaic disease from spreading to my farm?

Response: No need to panic. The best way to prevent mosaic is to use disease-free stems from healthy plants. Do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Plant resistant varieties and control whiteflies with neem sprays or traps. This week, inspect your farm for any signs of mosaic and remove infected plants immediately.


Instruction: What should I do to avoid cassava mosaic disease?

Response: To avoid mosaic disease, always use stems from healthy plants. Never use stems from a farm that had mosaic. Plant resistant varieties and control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. This week, check your farm for any signs of mosaic and take action.


Instruction: How can I protect my cassava from mosaic disease?

Response: Protect your cassava by using disease-free stems. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Remove and destroy any infected plants quickly. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants with mosaic patterns.


Instruction: What steps can I take to prevent cassava mosaic disease?

Response: To prevent mosaic disease, use stems from healthy plants only. Do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Plant resistant varieties and control whiteflies with neem sprays or traps. Remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. This week, check your farm for any signs of mosaic and take action.


Instruction: How do I stop cassava mosaic disease from affecting my plants?

Response: Stop mosaic disease by using disease-free stems. Plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Remove and destroy any infected plants quickly. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants with mosaic patterns.


Instruction: What can I do to ensure my cassava does not get mosaic disease?

Response: To ensure your cassava does not get mosaic, use stems from healthy plants. Do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Plant resistant varieties and control whiteflies with neem sprays or traps. Remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. This week, check your farm for any signs of mosaic and take action.


Instruction: How can I prevent the spread of cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: To prevent the spread of mosaic disease, use disease-free stems. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Remove and destroy any infected plants quickly. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants with mosaic patterns.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from attacking my crop?

Response: My friend, first thing first, plant your cowpea early before the dry season when aphids are most hungry. Also, mix it with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This will confuse the aphids and reduce their numbers. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds where aphids might hide.


Instruction: What can I plant with cowpea to keep aphids away?

Response: Planting cowpea with maize in a 4:1 ratio helps a lot. The maize acts like a shield, confusing the aphids and making it harder for them to find your cowpea. This is a simple trick that works well. Start planning your next planting with this mix in mind.


Instruction: My cowpea don spoil for aphids, wetin I do?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. First, remove and burn any heavily infested parts of the plant. Then, mix neem oil with soap and spray it on the leaves. This will help control the aphids. Also, check nearby farms and avoid planting downwind of them if they have aphids.


Instruction: How can I prevent aphids from destroying my cowpea farm?

Response: Aphids love dry weather, so plant your cowpea early to escape the peak of their population. Also, intercrop with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This will reduce the pressure from aphids. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds where aphids might hide.


Instruction: What is the best way to keep aphids off my cowpea plants?

Response: The best way is to plant your cowpea early and mix it with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This will make it harder for aphids to find and attack your cowpea. Also, avoid planting downwind of farms that already have aphids. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds where aphids might hide.


Instruction: How can I stop aphids from attacking my cowpea crop?

Response: Plant your cowpea early and mix it with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This will reduce the number of aphids that can attack your crop. Also, avoid planting downwind of farms that already have aphids. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds where aphids might hide.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent aphids from destroying my cowpea?

Response: My friend, plant your cowpea early and mix it with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This will make it harder for aphids to find and attack your crop. Also, avoid planting downwind of farms that already have aphids. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds where aphids might hide.


Instruction: How can I protect my cowpea from aphids?

Response: Plant your cowpea early and mix it with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This will reduce the number of aphids that can attack your crop. Also, avoid planting downwind of farms that already have aphids. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds where aphids might hide.


Instruction: What is the best way to keep aphids away from my cowpea?

Response: The best way is to plant your cowpea early and mix it with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This will make it harder for aphids to find and attack your crop. Also, avoid planting downwind of farms that already have aphids. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds where aphids might hide.


Instruction: How can I stop aphids from attacking my cowpea plants?

Response: Plant your cowpea early and mix it with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This will reduce the number of aphids that can attack your crop. Also, avoid planting downwind of farms that already have aphids. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds where aphids might hide.


Instruction: My mango leaves have dark brown spots that keep spreading. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is mango anthracnose. It's a fungus that spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. Then, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride today if possible, and repeat every 10 days during rain.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruits can form. What is this?

Response: This is blossom blight caused by anthracnose. The fungus attacks flowers in wet weather. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride today and repeat every 10 days during rain. Also, prune your tree to improve air flow.


Instruction: I just harvested my mangoes and some turned black within 2 days. What happened?

Response: This is anthracnose, my friend. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Next time, handle fruits carefully to avoid bruises, harvest at the right maturity, and store them in a cool dry place immediately. Also, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering to prevent this.


Instruction: My mango tree has many dead branches. Should I prune it now?

Response: Yes, you should prune it after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. This will help prevent anthracnose. Do it this week if possible.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango fruits get black spots?

Response: That is anthracnose, a fungus that attacks mangoes. The thing is, it spreads fast in wet weather. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride today and repeat every 10 days during rain. Also, handle fruits carefully when harvesting.


Instruction: I see dark spots on my mango leaves. Will this affect my fruits?

Response: Yes, those spots are anthracnose and it can spread to your fruits. Act fast: remove infected leaves, prune your tree to improve air flow, and spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride today. Repeat every 10 days during rain.


Instruction: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but turn black after harvest. How I go treat am?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungus that was already in the fruit. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering. Also, handle fruits carefully when harvesting and store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: I want to prevent mango diseases. What should I do?

Response: First, prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation. Also, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rain.


Instruction: My mango tree has many leaves and fruits on the ground. Should I remove them?

Response: Yes, remove them immediately. Fallen leaves and fruits carry fungal spores that cause anthracnose. Do this today to protect your tree.


Instruction: I see black spots on my mangoes. Is it safe to eat them?

Response: No, do not eat mangoes with black spots. This is anthracnose, a fungus that makes fruits unsafe. Remove and dispose of infected fruits immediately. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering and handle fruits carefully when harvesting.


Instruction: When should I plant my cowpea to avoid aphids?

Response: My friend, plant your cowpea early in the season. This way, you can escape the peak aphid populations that come in the dry season. First thing first, check your local weather patterns and plant as soon as conditions are right.


Instruction: What's the best time to intercrop cowpea with maize?

Response: The best time is when you're planting your maize. Mix them together at a 4:1 ratio of maize to cowpea. This will help reduce aphid pressure on your cowpea. If you haven't planted yet, do it now. If you have, no need to worry, just monitor for aphids.


Instruction: My cowpea don just sprout, when I go see if dem get aphid?

Response: Check your young shoots now, my friend. Aphids love to cluster there. Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects. If you see them, act fast. Remove and destroy the heavily infested parts before they spread.


Instruction: Is there a specific time of day to check for aphids on cowpea?

Response: Check in the morning when it's cool. Aphids are more active then, and you'll spot them easily. If you can't do it in the morning, any time is better than not checking at all. Grab a magnifying glass and inspect your plants today.


Instruction: When should I apply neem oil spray to prevent aphids?

Response: Apply neem oil spray in the early morning or late evening. This is when the sun is not too strong, and the spray will stick better. If you haven't sprayed yet, mix neem oil with soap and spray your plants today. Remember to follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What time should I plant cowpea to fix nitrogen in the soil?

Response: Plant your cowpea as early as possible in the season. The earlier you plant, the more nitrogen it can fix in the soil for the next crop. If you haven't planted yet, do it now. If you have, ensure the plants are healthy and growing well.


Instruction: When I go know say my cowpea get aphid problem?

Response: You will know when you see small shiny black or dark brown insects clustering on your young shoots, flowers, and pods. You might also notice stunted growth, leaf curl, yellowing, or wilting. If you see these signs, act fast. Remove and destroy the heavily infested parts.


Instruction: Is there a best time to intercrop cowpea with other crops?

Response: Yes, intercrop cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio when you're planting your maize. This helps reduce aphid pressure. If you haven't intercropped yet, do it now. If you have, monitor your plants regularly for any signs of aphids.


Instruction: When should I apply garlic spray to control aphids?

Response: Apply garlic spray in the early morning or late evening. This is when the sun is not too strong, and the spray will be more effective. If you haven't sprayed yet, mix garlic with water and spray your plants today. Remember to cover all parts of the plant.


Instruction: What's the best time to plant cowpea to avoid dry season aphids?

Response: Plant your cowpea early in the season, before the dry season starts. This way, your plants can mature before the peak aphid populations arrive. If you haven't planted yet, do it now. If you have, ensure your plants are healthy and growing well.


Instruction: How do I know if my mango trees have anthracnose?

Response: My friend, check your leaves first. If you see dark brown, irregular spots, that's a sign. On flowers, it causes blossom blight, killing them before fruit sets. On fruits, look for dark sunken lesions. These spots grow bigger after harvest as the fruit ripens. The thing is, fruits may look fine on the tree but turn black within 2 days after picking. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fruits from your tree and ground.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause mango leaves get brown spots?

Response: That's mango anthracnose, my friend. It's caused by a fungus that loves high humidity and frequent rain. The spots are dark brown and irregular. To stop it, prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. They carry fungal spores that can spread the disease.


Instruction: Why do my mangoes turn black so quickly after harvest?

Response: Ah, that's anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit but you couldn't see it. It spreads quickly when the fruit ripens. Handle your fruits with care — any wounds or bruises let the fungus in. Harvest carefully, don't drop them, and store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: First, prune your trees after every harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly — they carry fungal spores. Avoid overhead irrigation as it keeps foliage wet for too long. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest mangoes?

Response: Harvest when you see a slight colour change at the tip of the fruit. That's the sign for most varieties. Handle them with care — any wounds or bruises can let the anthracnose fungus in. Don't drop them, and store them in a cool dry place immediately after harvest.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Then, repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your trees after every harvest to improve air circulation and remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. What is happening?

Response: That's blossom blight, caused by anthracnose. The fungus kills the flowers before fruit sets. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: Is it good to water mango trees from above?

Response: No, my friend. Overhead irrigation keeps the foliage wet for too long, which anthracnose fungus loves. Use drip irrigation instead. Also, prune your trees after every harvest to improve air circulation and remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to pick?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip of the fruit. That's the sign for most varieties. Handle them with care — any wounds or bruises can let the anthracnose fungus in. Don't drop them, and store them in a cool dry place immediately after harvest.


Instruction: What should I do with fallen leaves and fruits under my mango tree?

Response: Remove them regularly, my friend. They carry fungal spores that can spread anthracnose. Prune your tree after every harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Also, avoid overhead irrigation as it keeps foliage wet for too long.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves don turn yellow and look like bushy. What I go do?

Response: My friend, this sound like groundnut rosette disease. The thing is, once a plant get this virus, it no go survive. First thing first, remove the bad plants immediately so the disease no spread. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control the aphids that spread this disease.


Instruction: How to stop this groundnut rosette from killing my crop?

Response: Groundnut rosette is a deadly virus spread by aphids. Once plants are infected, they must be removed immediately. To prevent it, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting and keep your farm well-weeded. Weeds can host aphids, which then move to your groundnut plants.


Instruction: My plants are stunted and have mottled leaves. What is this and how to treat?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. The thing is, there is no cure once a plant is infected. You must remove the infected plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control the aphids that spread this disease.


Instruction: How can I prevent groundnut rosette disease in my farm?

Response: To prevent groundnut rosette disease, plant early in the season to escape peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control the aphids that spread this disease. Also, keep your farm well-weeded as weeds can host aphids.


Instruction: Wetin I go do make my groundnut no get rosette?

Response: First thing first, plant your groundnut early in the season. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control the aphids that spread this disease. Also, keep your farm well-weeded. Weeds can host aphids, which then move to your groundnut plants.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and bushy with yellow leaves. How to treat this?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. The thing is, there is no cure once a plant is infected. You must remove the infected plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control the aphids that spread this disease.


Instruction: How to manage groundnut rosette disease in my farm?

Response: Groundnut rosette is a deadly virus spread by aphids. Once plants are infected, they must be removed immediately. To manage it, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting and keep your farm well-weeded. Weeds can host aphids, which then move to your groundnut plants.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves don spoil, dem turn yellow and bushy. How I go treat am?

Response: This sound like groundnut rosette disease. The thing is, once a plant get this virus, it no go survive. First thing first, remove the bad plants immediately so the disease no spread. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control the aphids that spread this disease.


Instruction: What can I do to stop groundnut rosette from destroying my crop?

Response: To stop groundnut rosette, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control the aphids that spread this disease. Also, keep your farm well-weeded as weeds can host aphids.


Instruction: How can I prevent my groundnut from getting rosette disease?

Response: To prevent groundnut rosette disease, plant early in the season to escape peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control the aphids that spread this disease. Also, keep your farm well-weeded as weeds can host aphids.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette compare to other groundnut diseases?

Response: My friend, groundnut rosette is one of the worst. It's a virus that makes plants stay small with yellow, mottled leaves. The thing is, once a plant has it, it's done for. No cure! You must pull it out straight away. Other diseases might not be so deadly. First thing first, check your plants early and pull out any with rosette.


Instruction: Why is early planting better than late planting for groundnut?

Response: Early planting helps you escape the peak of aphids that spread rosette later in the season. When you plant at the very start of rains, your groundnuts grow strong before the aphids become too many. Late planting means more aphids, more rosette, and possible total crop failure. So, plant early this season!


Instruction: How do resistant groundnut varieties compare to regular ones?

Response: Resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23 fight off rosette better than regular ones. Regular varieties will get sick and die if aphids bring the virus. Resistant ones might still get some leaves with rosette, but they won't die. Ask your extension officer for local resistant varieties to plant this season.


Instruction: What is the difference between groundnut rosette and normal plant stress?

Response: Rosette makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow, mottled leaves all bunched together. Normal stress might make leaves wilt or turn yellow, but not in that bunched way. The thing is, rosette is deadly — no cure! Pull out infected plants immediately and plant resistant varieties next time.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette spread compared to other diseases?

Response: Rosette spreads through aphids, those tiny green insects. They suck sap from plants and spread the virus. Other diseases might spread through rain or wind. The thing is, once aphids bring rosette to your farm, it spreads fast. Control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and weed your farm well to break their cycle.


Instruction: Why is it important to harvest groundnut before heavy rains?

Response: Heavy rains make pods wet, and wet pods get aflatoxin — a very dangerous poison. Harvest before the rains come. Dry the pods well before storage. Moisture above 9 percent causes aflatoxin. So, plan your harvest this week before the rains arrive!


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette affect plant growth compared to healthy plants?

Response: Rosette makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow, mottled leaves. Healthy plants grow tall and strong. The thing is, rosette is deadly — no cure! Pull out infected plants immediately and plant resistant varieties next time to avoid this problem.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause groundnut rosette and how I go prevent am?

Response: Aphids cause rosette by spreading the virus. To prevent it, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, treat seeds with insecticide before planting and weed your farm well. Aphids love weeds, so no weeds mean fewer aphids. Start weeding your farm this week!


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette compare to leaf spot diseases?

Response: Rosette makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow, mottled leaves. Leaf spot makes brown spots on leaves but doesn't stunt the plant so badly. The thing is, rosette is deadly — no cure! Pull out infected plants immediately and plant resistant varieties next time.


Instruction: Why is it better to plant groundnut in sandy loam soil?

Response: Sandy loam soil drains well, so water doesn't stay and rot the pods. Waterlogged soil causes pod rot, which ruins your harvest. The thing is, good soil means healthy pods. Check your soil this week and amend it if needed before planting.


Instruction: How do I stop groundnut rosette from spreading in my farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first — remove any infected plants immediately. This disease spreads through aphids, so control them with insecticide seed treatment. Also plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones. This week, check your farm and remove any infected plants you find.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause groundnut rosette?

Response: Groundnut rosette is caused by a virus spread by cowpea aphids. The thing is, once a plant is infected, it will never recover. The best thing is to remove infected plants quickly to stop the spread. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants that look stunted with yellowed or mottled leaves.


Instruction: What are the signs of groundnut rosette disease?

Response: Look for plants that stay small and bushy with yellowed or mottled leaves. These are the signs of groundnut rosette. The leaves will also bunch up. If you see these signs, remove the plant immediately to stop the disease from spreading. This week, walk through your farm and check for these signs.


Instruction: How can I prevent groundnut rosette in my farm?

Response: Plant early at the start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 or RG 1 series. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment. Weed your farm well because weeds host aphids. This week, if you haven't planted yet, prepare your land and get resistant seeds.


Instruction: Can groundnut rosette be cured?

Response: No, my friend, there is no cure for groundnut rosette once a plant is infected. The only thing to do is remove the infected plants immediately. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants that show signs of the disease.


Instruction: Why is groundnut rosette dangerous early in the season?

Response: Groundnut rosette is most dangerous early in the season because it can cause total crop failure. The virus spreads quickly through aphids, and infected plants will never recover. This week, plant early and use resistant varieties to avoid this problem.


Instruction: How do I control aphids that spread groundnut rosette?

Response: Use insecticide seed treatment before planting to control aphids. Also, weed your farm well because weeds host aphids which then move to groundnut plants. This week, treat your seeds with insecticide and weed your farm thoroughly.


Instruction: What should I do if I see groundnut rosette in my farm?

Response: Remove the infected plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and plant resistant varieties next season. This week, walk through your farm and remove any plants that show signs of the disease.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette spread from one plant to another?

Response: Groundnut rosette spreads through cowpea aphids that move from infected plants to healthy ones. The thing is, once a plant is infected, it will never recover. The best thing is to remove infected plants quickly to stop the spread. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants that look stunted with yellowed or mottled leaves.


Instruction: What can I do to protect my groundnut from rosette disease?

Response: Plant early at the start of rains and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22. Control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and weed your farm well. This week, if you haven't planted yet, prepare your land and get resistant seeds.


Instruction: My mango flowers are turning black and falling off. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is blossom blight from mango anthracnose. The fungus attacks flowers before fruit can set. First thing first, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride right away and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, remove any fallen flowers from the ground to stop the disease spreading.


Instruction: I just harvested my mangoes but some are turning black after 2 days. What is this?

Response: This is anthracnose, my friend. The fungus was already inside the fruit but you couldn't see it. The thing is, once harvested, the disease spreads fast. Next time, handle fruits very carefully to avoid wounds and store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: My mango leaves have dark brown spots. Is this serious?

Response: Yes, those spots are from anthracnose. It's serious because it can spread to flowers and fruit. Prune affected branches and remove all fallen leaves. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango fruit for get black spots?

Response: That is anthracnose, a fungal disease. It starts small but spreads fast, especially in wet weather. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and every 10 days in rainy season. Also, harvest carefully and store fruits in a cool dry place.


Instruction: I see black spots on my mango tree leaves and flowers. Should I be worried?

Response: Yes, this is anthracnose and you need to act fast. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride right away and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune the tree to improve air circulation and remove any fallen leaves or flowers.


Instruction: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but go black after 2 days of harvest. Why?

Response: This is anthracnose, a hidden disease. The fungus was already inside but you couldn't see it. Next time, handle fruits very carefully to avoid wounds and store them in a cool dry place immediately after harvest.


Instruction: How can I prevent my mangoes from getting black spots after harvest?

Response: Handle your mangoes with extreme care during harvest. Any wounds or bruises let the anthracnose fungus in. Also, store them in a cool dry place immediately. This will slow down the disease.


Instruction: My mango tree has dark brown spots on leaves and flowers are dying. What do I do?

Response: This is anthracnose. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride right away and repeat every 10 days during rainy season. Also, prune the tree to improve air circulation and remove all fallen leaves and flowers from the ground.


Instruction: I harvested my mangoes but some are turning black. How I go treat am?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. The black spots are anthracnose. Next time, handle fruits very carefully to avoid wounds and store them in a cool dry place immediately after harvest.


Instruction: What can I do to stop my mango leaves and flowers from getting black spots?

Response: This is anthracnose. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove all fallen leaves and flowers from the ground.


Instruction: How does fall armyworm spread so quickly across farms?

Response: My friend, fall armyworm spreads fast because one female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs. The warm weather helps them move quickly from one farm to another. The thing is, if you see them in your field, your neighbours likely have them too. First thing first, scout your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Check 10-20 plants per field and look for those ragged holes in the leaves.


Instruction: What are the signs of fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the maize whorl. You'll also see ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes. These caterpillars hide deep inside during the day and feed at night. Go check your maize early morning or evening when they come out. If you see these signs, act fast.


Instruction: How can I stop fall armyworm from spreading to my maize?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather. The best way to stop them is to catch them early. Scout your maize early morning or evening and look for those ragged holes in the leaves. If you see them, treat immediately. Intercropping maize with beans or soybean can also reduce attacks. Start scouting today.


Instruction: My maize don spoil for fall armyworm, wetin I go do?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. First, check your maize early morning or evening for those ragged holes and wet sawdust-like droppings. If you see them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will scratch and kill young caterpillars. For bigger infestations, use neem-based sprays or follow label instructions for emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm from attacking my maize?

Response: Prevention is better than cure. Plant your maize at the right time to avoid peak moth migration. Intercropping with beans or soybean helps a lot. Scout your maize regularly, especially early morning or evening. If you see signs, treat immediately with fine sand mixed with wood ash or neem-based sprays. Start scouting this week.


Instruction: What is the best time to check for fall armyworm in maize?

Response: The best time is early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out to feed. They hide deep inside the whorl during the day. Check 10-20 plants per field. Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see these signs, act fast.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is in my maize field?

Response: Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the maize whorl. These caterpillars hide deep inside during the day and feed at night. Go check your maize early morning or evening when they come out. If you see these signs, treat immediately.


Instruction: Why fall armyworm attack my maize so fast?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads fast because one female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs. The warm weather helps them move quickly from one farm to another. If you see them in your field, your neighbours likely have them too. Scout your maize early morning or evening and look for those ragged holes in the leaves. If you see them, treat immediately.


Instruction: How can I control fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: For young caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will scratch and kill them. For bigger infestations, use neem-based sprays or follow label instructions for emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos. Always scout early morning or evening and treat immediately if you see signs.


Instruction: What can I do to protect my maize from fall armyworm?

Response: Plant your maize at the right time and intercrop with beans or soybean. Scout your maize regularly, especially early morning or evening. If you see ragged holes in the leaves or wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, treat immediately. Use fine sand mixed with wood ash or neem-based sprays. Start scouting this week.


Instruction: Farmer sees white spots on rice leaves and asks what it is

Response: My friend, those white spots with brown edges could be rice blast disease. This fungus can destroy your crop if not treated early. First thing first, check if you've been using too much nitrogen fertilizer. Reduce it and spray tricyclazole fungicide today.


Instruction: Farmer notices rice stalks falling over and asks what is happening

Response: This is called neck blast, a very serious rice disease. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall over. You must act fast! Spray propiconazole fungicide immediately and burn the straw after harvest to stop the fungus spreading.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to prevent rice blast disease

Response: First, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. Keep your field water levels steady — no drying and flooding. Use balanced NPK fertilizer, never too much nitrogen. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: Farmer asks why rice blast is worse in some years than others

Response: Rice blast loves cool nights and high humidity. When we have many rainy days with heavy dew, the fungus spreads fast. Also, too much nitrogen fertilizer makes the disease worse. This year, use less nitrogen and spray fungicide at the first sign of trouble.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to treat neck blast in rice

Response: Neck blast is very dangerous because it can destroy your harvest. Spray propiconazole fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything! Also, plant resistant varieties next season like FARO 57.


Instruction: Farmer in Nigeria asks which rice varieties resist blast disease

Response: In Nigeria, FARO 52 and FARO 57 are good resistant varieties. The NERICA series also does well against blast. These varieties will help protect your crop from this dangerous fungus.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to manage water in rice fields to prevent blast

Response: Keep your field water levels steady — no drying and flooding. The fungus spreads when the field dries out and then gets flooded again. Maintain proper water levels and your rice will stay healthier.


Instruction: Farmer asks what to do if rice leaves have white spots but no fungicide is available

Response: First, reduce nitrogen fertilizer — too much feeds the fungus. Then, burn affected plants and straw to stop the disease spreading. Next season, plant resistant varieties like NERICA. Also, maintain steady water levels in your field.


Instruction: Farmer asks why rice blast is worse in crowded fields

Response: When rice plants are too close together, air cannot move freely. The fungus loves humid, still air. Give your plants space when transplanting. Proper spacing helps air move and reduces disease pressure.


Instruction: How do I know if my cocoa pods have black pod disease?

Response: My friend, if you see brown or black rotting patches on your cocoa pods at any stage, that's black pod disease. It spreads fast in wet, humid conditions. First thing first, remove and bury or burn those infected pods deep. Don't leave them on the ground.


Instruction: Why my cocoa farm get black pod disease every year?

Response: The thing is, black pod disease loves wet and humid conditions. If your farm is shady with poor airflow, the disease spreads fast. You must prune your trees regularly to allow light and air inside. Also, harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks to avoid overstay pods which easily get infected.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: To prevent black pod disease, you must keep your farm clean and dry. Prune your trees after each harvest to improve airflow. Remove all diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood during sanitation harvesting. Apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don spoil. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, my friend, your cocoa pods are likely affected by black pod disease. This disease spreads fast in wet and humid conditions. You must remove and burn or bury the infected pods deep. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity inside the farm.


Instruction: How often should I prune my cocoa trees to prevent black pod disease?

Response: You should prune your cocoa trees after each harvest. This allows light and air into the canopy, reducing humidity and preventing black pod disease. Regular pruning also helps in keeping your farm clean and healthy.


Instruction: What is the best way to dispose of infected cocoa pods?

Response: The best way to dispose of infected cocoa pods is to bury them deeply or burn them. Never leave them on the ground because they can infect other pods. This is very important for controlling the spread of black pod disease.


Instruction: Can I use any fungicide to treat black pod disease?

Response: Yes, you can use copper-based fungicides like Ridomil Gold or Nordox. Apply them every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. But remember, always follow the label instructions carefully to ensure safety and effectiveness.


Instruction: How I go treat black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: First, remove and burn or bury all infected pods deep. Then, prune your trees to improve airflow. Apply copper-based fungicide every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Also, harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks to avoid overstay pods which easily get infected.


Instruction: Is it true that overstay pods cause black pod disease?

Response: Yes, my friend, overstay pods are one of the biggest sources of black pod disease. You must harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks to prevent this. Regular harvesting keeps your farm clean and reduces the risk of infection.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: No need to panic. First, remove and burn or bury all infected pods deep. Then, prune your trees to improve airflow. Apply copper-based fungicide every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Also, harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks to avoid overstay pods which easily get infected.


Instruction: My groundnut plant is small and bushy with yellow leaves. What is wrong?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets this, it won't recover. First thing first, uproot and burn the affected plants right away to stop it spreading. Next season, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and bunched together. What could be the problem?

Response: Ah, that's groundnut rosette disease. It's very serious, especially early in the season. The virus makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. There's no cure, so remove and burn the infected plants immediately. Also, make sure to plant early at the start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut plant to stay small with yellow leaves?

Response: That's groundnut rosette disease, my friend. It's spread by aphids and can ruin your crop if not controlled. Since there's no cure, you must remove and destroy the infected plants right away. For next season, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 or the RG 1 series.


Instruction: Why are my groundnut plants stunted and have mottled leaves?

Response: That's groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. It's deadly, especially early in the season. The infected plants won't recover, so uproot and burn them immediately. To prevent it, plant early at the start of rains and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and bushy with yellow bunched leaves. What is happening?

Response: That's groundnut rosette disease, my friend. It's a virus spread by aphids and can destroy your crop. Since there's no cure, remove and burn the infected plants right away. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones. Also, keep your farm well-weeded to reduce aphid populations.


Instruction: Why my groundnut plants no grow tall but stay small with yellow leaves?

Response: Ah, that's groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The infected plants won't recover, so uproot and burn them immediately. To prevent this, plant early at the start of rains and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and the plants are stunted. What should I do?

Response: That's groundnut rosette disease, my friend. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. Since there's no cure, remove and burn the infected plants right away. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23. Also, keep your farm well-weeded to reduce aphid populations.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut plants to stay small with yellow bunched leaves?

Response: That's groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. It's very serious, especially early in the season. The infected plants won't recover, so remove and burn them immediately. To prevent this, plant early at the start of rains and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting.