Instruction: How I go prevent cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: To prevent cassava mosaic disease, always use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. This is the number one rule. Also, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps around your farm. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic— the virus travels with the stem.


Instruction: My cassava don spoil, leaves get mosaic, wetin I go do now?

Response: No need to panic. First, remove and destroy the infected plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading. Check all your plants and remove any with mosaic signs. Next time, use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties. Also, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps.


Instruction: What is the best way to space cassava plants for good yield?

Response: Space your cassava plants 1 metre by 1 metre for good yield and ease of weeding. This gives each plant enough room to grow big and healthy. Also, mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Regular weeding for the first 3 months will help your cassava thrive.


Instruction: How I go know if my cassava plant has mosaic disease?

Response: If your cassava leaves have yellow and green mosaic patterns, curling, or look twisted, it is mosaic disease. This virus spreads by whiteflies. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading. Always use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties.


Instruction: What is the best way to control whiteflies in my cassava farm?

Response: To control whiteflies, use neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm. These methods help reduce the number of whiteflies that spread the mosaic virus. Also, remove and destroy infected plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading further.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest cassava?

Response: You can harvest cassava between 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you want to use it for. Harvesting at the right time ensures you get the best tubers. Make sure to weed regularly for the first 3 months to help your cassava grow well.


Instruction: My cassava leaves get yellow-green patches, what is the problem?

Response: Those yellow and green patches on your cassava leaves are signs of mosaic disease, caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First, remove and destroy the infected plants to stop the virus from spreading. Always use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps.


Instruction: How I go improve the yield of my cassava farm?

Response: To improve your cassava yield, space your plants 1 metre apart and mound the soil before planting to improve drainage. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. Also, use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties to prevent mosaic disease. Cassava responds well to potassium fertilizer, so consider using it if available.


Instruction: my rice leaves have grey spots with brown edges, my friend

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. The thing is, this fungus loves too much nitrogen, so first thing first, stop adding more. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check if you have blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series for next planting.


Instruction: how I go treat rice blast for my farm dis year

Response: To treat rice blast, first thing first, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide as soon as you see leaf lesions. For neck blast prevention, spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 or NERICA series. This week, check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast.


Instruction: my rice stalks are falling over, what is this

Response: This is neck blast, the most damaging form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to fall over. To prevent this next time, spray fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, consider planting blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. This week, remove and burn any affected plants to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: how can I prevent rice blast in my paddy field

Response: To prevent rice blast, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and do not let it dry out and flood alternately. Do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting and use balanced NPK fertilizer, never more than the recommended nitrogen dose. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Plant blast-resistant varieties like NERICA series. This week, check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast.


Instruction: wetin dey cause my rice leaves to turn grey with brown edges

Response: This is rice blast disease caused by a fungus. The thing is, this fungus loves cool nights, high humidity, and too much nitrogen fertilizer. To treat it, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, consider planting blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 for next planting. This week, check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast.


Instruction: how I go know if my rice has blast disease

Response: Look for diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions on the leaves with a grey or white centre and brown or reddish edges. If the base of the grain-bearing stalk is attacked, it will cause the stalk to fall over — this is neck blast. If you see these signs, spray fungicide right away and consider planting blast-resistant varieties like NERICA series next time. This week, check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast.


Instruction: my rice field has too much nitrogen, what I go do

Response: No need to panic, my friend. Excess nitrogen feeds the rice blast fungus, so stop adding more nitrogen fertilizer right away. Use balanced NPK fertilizer instead. Also, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide if you see any signs of the disease. This week, check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast.


Instruction: how I go treat rice blast if I don no have fungicide

Response: If you don't have fungicide, first thing first, remove and burn any affected plants to stop the disease from spreading. Also, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and do not let it dry out and flood alternately. Do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting and use balanced NPK fertilizer. Consider planting blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 for next planting. This week, check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast.


Instruction: what I go do if my rice stalks are falling over

Response: This is neck blast, the most damaging form of rice blast disease. Remove and burn any affected plants to stop the disease from spreading. For next planting, consider planting blast-resistant varieties like NERICA series. This week, check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast.


Instruction: how I go prevent rice blast in my farm dis rainy season

Response: To prevent rice blast this rainy season, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and do not let it dry out and flood alternately. Do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting and use balanced NPK fertilizer, never more than the recommended nitrogen dose. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57. This week, check your field for any signs of the disease and act fast.


Instruction: Why my mango tree leaves get dark spots?

Response: My friend, this is mango anthracnose. The thing is, it's a fungus that loves wet weather. Don't let water stay on your leaves too long. Avoid overhead irrigation and prune your tree to improve air flow. First thing first, remove all fallen leaves from the ground.


Instruction: How I go know if my mango tree get anthracnose?

Response: Check your leaves for dark brown spots. If your flowers are dying before fruiting, that's another sign. On fruits, look for dark sunken areas. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango tree flowers don spoil, no fruit form. Why?

Response: This could be mango anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers. Don't wait, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride now. Repeat every 10 days during rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: What not to do if my mango fruits get anthracnose?

Response: Don't drop the fruits when harvesting. Bruises let the fungus enter. Handle them with care. Don't store them in wet places. Keep them cool and dry. Also, don't wait for the disease to spread. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage.


Instruction: Why my mangoes turn black after harvest?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside. Don't harvest too early or too late. Wait for a slight colour change at the tip. This week, remove all fallen fruits from the ground to stop spores spreading.


Instruction: How I go prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: Don't keep your tree too dense. Prune it after harvest to improve air flow. Don't use overhead irrigation. Water at the base. Also, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What I no go do if I want good mango harvest?

Response: Don't ignore fallen leaves and fruits. They carry fungus spores. Don't let water stay on your leaves too long. Avoid overhead irrigation. This week, remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: Why my mango fruits get dark spots after harvest?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already there. Don't handle fruits roughly. Bruises let the fungus enter. Harvest carefully and store in a cool dry place immediately. Also, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage.


Instruction: What not to do if I see dark spots on mango leaves?

Response: Don't ignore it. It's anthracnose. Don't wait for the disease to spread. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How I go stop mango anthracnose?

Response: Don't let your tree be too dense. Prune it after harvest. Don't use overhead irrigation. Water at the base. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage, follow the label instructions carefully. This week, remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: How fast can tomato blight spread on my farm?

Response: My friend, tomato blight spreads very fast, especially in wet and cool weather. A week of rain can wipe out your whole farm if you don't act quickly. First thing first, check your plants every day during rainy season and remove any infected leaves immediately.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil fast, wetin dey cause am?

Response: If your tomato plants are spoiling fast, it might be blight. Look for dark brown spots with rings or water-soaked patches. This disease spreads quickly in wet weather. Today, remove any infected leaves and burn them, don't compost them.


Instruction: How does tomato blight move from one plant to another?

Response: Tomato blight spreads through water splashing from infected soil or leaves onto healthy plants. Rain, overhead watering, or poor drainage can make it worse. To stop it, water at the base of the plants and plant on raised beds.


Instruction: Can tomato blight kill all my plants in one week?

Response: Yes, my friend, in wet and cool weather, tomato blight can destroy your entire farm in just a week. That's why you must check your plants every day during the rainy season and remove any infected parts immediately.


Instruction: What should I do if blight appears on just one plant?

Response: If you see blight on just one plant, act fast! Remove and burn that plant right away. Do not compost it. Also, spray a fungicide like mancozeb or copper-based one on the nearby plants to stop the spread. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop tomato blight from spreading in my farm?

Response: To stop tomato blight from spreading, remove and burn any infected leaves or plants immediately. Spray fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Also, avoid overhead watering and plant on raised beds for better drainage.


Instruction: Why does tomato blight spread so quickly in the rainy season?

Response: Tomato blight spreads quickly in the rainy season because wet, cool, and humid conditions help the disease spread fast. Water splashes from the soil or infected leaves can carry the disease to healthy plants. To prevent this, water at the base of the plants and rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea.


Instruction: My neighbor's tomato farm got blight, will it come to mine too?

Response: Yes, my friend, blight can spread from one farm to another, especially in wet weather. Check your plants every day and remove any infected leaves immediately. Also, spray fungicide as a prevention measure. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What is the fastest way to stop tomato blight from spreading?

Response: The fastest way to stop tomato blight from spreading is to remove and burn any infected leaves or plants immediately. Do not compost them. Also, spray fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season and avoid overhead watering.


Instruction: How can I protect my tomato plants from blight if it's raining a lot?

Response: If it's raining a lot, check your tomato plants every day for signs of blight. Remove and burn any infected leaves immediately. Spray fungicide every 7 days and avoid overhead watering. Also, plant on raised beds to improve drainage and reduce soil splash onto the leaves.


Instruction: How do I stop cassava mosaic from ruining my farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first: plant only disease-free stems. Cut stems from healthy plants only. Also, use sticky yellow traps to catch whiteflies that spread the disease. You can make neem spray to control them too. This week, check your farm for any plants with yellow-green patches and remove them immediately.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don turn yellow and green like mosaic, wetin I go do?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Remove those plants immediately and burn them far from your farm. The whiteflies spread this disease, so set yellow sticky traps to catch them. Next time, plant resistant varieties like TME 419. This week, check all your plants and remove any with mosaic signs.


Instruction: What can I do to keep my cassava safe from mosaic disease?

Response: The best way is to start with disease-free planting stems. Cut stems from healthy plants only. Also, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. Control whiteflies with neem spray or yellow sticky traps. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants showing mosaic symptoms.


Instruction: How can I prevent cassava mosaic from spreading in my farm?

Response: Prevention starts with using disease-free stems. Cut stems from healthy plants only. Also, plant resistant varieties. Control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. This week, walk your farm and remove any plants with mosaic symptoms immediately.


Instruction: My neighbor's cassava has mosaic, how I go protect my own?

Response: I tell you, start by using disease-free stems from healthy plants. Also, plant resistant varieties. Control whiteflies with neem spray or yellow sticky traps. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants with mosaic symptoms.


Instruction: What should I do to avoid cassava mosaic in my farm?

Response: The key is to plant only disease-free stems from healthy plants. Also, use resistant varieties like CMD-resistant ones. Control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. This week, check your farm and remove any plants with mosaic symptoms.


Instruction: How do I make sure my cassava does not get mosaic disease?

Response: Start with disease-free stems from healthy plants. Also, plant resistant varieties. Control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. This week, walk your farm and remove any plants with mosaic symptoms immediately.


Instruction: My cassava don spoil with mosaic, how I go prevent dis one?

Response: First, remove and burn the infected plants far from your farm. Next time, use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties. Control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants with mosaic symptoms.


Instruction: What steps can I take to keep cassava mosaic away from my farm?

Response: Start with disease-free stems from healthy plants. Also, plant resistant varieties. Control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. This week, check your farm and remove any plants with mosaic symptoms.


Instruction: How can I ensure my cassava does not get mosaic disease?

Response: The best way is to use disease-free stems from healthy plants. Also, plant resistant varieties. Control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants with mosaic symptoms immediately.


Instruction: My friend, what is the worst mistake I can make when I see black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: My friend, the worst mistake is leaving the infected pods on the ground. You must remove and bury them deeply or burn them. This stops the disease from spreading to other pods. Start checking your farm today and remove any infected pods you find.


Instruction: If I see black pod disease, should I harvest all my pods at once?

Response: No, no need to panic and harvest all your pods at once. But you must harvest ripe pods every two weeks. Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection. Start a regular harvesting schedule this week to keep your farm healthy.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause black pod for cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease is caused by a fungus that spreads fast in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. The thing is, one infected pod can infect 10 others. First thing first, remove any infected pods and burn them. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: Can I just ignore black pod disease if it's only a few pods?

Response: No, you cannot ignore black pod disease even if it's only a few pods. It spreads very fast in wet conditions. Remove the infected pods immediately and bury them deeply or burn them. Check your farm today and remove any infected pods you find.


Instruction: Is it okay to leave infected pods on the ground after harvesting?

Response: No, never leave infected pods on the ground. They will spread the disease to other pods. You must remove and bury them deeply or burn them. Start cleaning your farm today to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: Should I wait until the end of the rainy season to prune my cocoa trees?

Response: No, do not wait until the end of the rainy season. Prune your trees regularly to improve airflow and reduce humidity. This helps prevent black pod disease. Start pruning your trees this week to keep your farm healthy.


Instruction: Can I use any fungicide to treat black pod disease?

Response: No, not any fungicide. Use copper-based fungicides like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. Start treating your farm today to protect your cocoa pods.


Instruction: Is it okay to establish a new cocoa farm late in the rainy season?

Response: No, do not establish new farms too late in the rainy season. Wet conditions help the black pod disease spread fast. If you must plant, choose a sunny spot and start pruning regularly to improve airflow.


Instruction: Should I remove only the diseased pods or also the mummified ones?

Response: You must remove both diseased and mummified pods. Also, remove any deadwood. This is called sanitation harvesting. Start cleaning your farm today to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: Can I just cut down the infected trees to stop the disease?

Response: No, do not cut down the whole tree. Remove only the infected pods and deadwood. Prune the tree regularly to improve airflow. Start cleaning your farm today to keep it healthy.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes that look like windows with light through them. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Check for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. This is the clearest sign. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field. Today, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl to scratch and kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: I see small caterpillars on my maize but no holes yet. Should I worry?

Response: Yes, you should worry but no need to panic. These are likely fall armyworm caterpillars. They start small but grow fast. First thing first, scout your field early morning or evening. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you find them, apply neem-based spray or mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize is dying fast. I see small caterpillars and wet sawdust inside the leaves. What is this?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. The wet sawdust-like droppings are a clear sign. Scout your field early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field. Today, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl to scratch and kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my maize leaves to have ragged holes?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. This is the clearest sign. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field. Today, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl to scratch and kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: I found small caterpillars in my maize. How I go treat am?

Response: These are likely fall armyworm caterpillars. Scout your field early morning or evening. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you find them, apply neem-based spray or mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is severe, consider using chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — always follow label dosage.


Instruction: My maize has small caterpillars and wet sawdust inside the leaves. What do I do?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. The wet sawdust-like droppings are a clear sign. Scout your field early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field. Today, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl to scratch and kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: I see small caterpillars on my maize. The leaves have holes. What is this pest?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. This is the clearest sign. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field. Today, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl to scratch and kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize is being eaten by small caterpillars. How can I stop this?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. This is the clearest sign. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field. Today, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl to scratch and kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: I found small caterpillars in my maize. The leaves have ragged holes. What is this?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. This is the clearest sign. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field. Today, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl to scratch and kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize has small caterpillars and wet sawdust inside the leaves. How I go treat am?

Response: These are likely fall armyworm caterpillars. Scout your field early morning or evening. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you find them, apply neem-based spray or mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is severe, consider using chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — always follow label dosage.


Instruction: How I go know if my cowpea get aphid?

Response: My friend, check your cowpea plants well. If you see small shiny black or dark brown insects clustering on young shoots, flowers, or pods, that is aphids. They cause leaves to curl, turn yellow, and wilt. If you see sticky stuff on leaves that turns black, that is honeydew from aphids. First thing first, remove and destroy those infested parts before they spread to the whole farm.


Instruction: Why my cowpea plants don grow well?

Response: Wetin dey cause this could be cowpea aphids. Those tiny black or brown insects suck sap from your plants, making them weak and stunted. They also spread viruses that can ruin your crop. You must act fast — spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray to control them.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cowpea aphids in my farm?

Response: The thing is, cowpea aphids love dry season, so plant early to escape their peak. Intercrop your cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio — this reduces aphid pressure. Also, avoid planting downwind or next to farms already infested. This week, check your farm and remove any weeds where aphids can hide.


Instruction: How can I control cowpea aphids without chemicals?

Response: My friend, nature has helpers for you. Ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps eat aphids. Protect them! Also, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray on your plants. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop aphids from spreading. This will help keep your cowpea healthy.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant cowpea to avoid aphids?

Response: To avoid aphids, plant your cowpea early in the season before the dry period when aphids are most active. Also, mix your cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Avoid planting near farms that already have aphids. This week, prepare your land and plant your cowpea early.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and wilting. What is happening?

Response: This could be cowpea aphids. Those tiny black or brown insects suck sap from your plants, causing leaves to turn yellow and wilt. They also produce sticky honeydew that turns black and blocks sunlight. First thing first, remove and destroy the infested parts before they spread to the whole farm.


Instruction: Can cowpea aphids spread diseases to my plants?

Response: Yes, my friend, cowpea aphids spread more than 30 plant viruses. Even a small infestation is a big threat. They suck sap and spread diseases, causing stunted growth and wilting. Act fast — spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray to control them. This week, check your farm and remove any infested parts.


Instruction: What should I do if my cowpea has a lot of aphids?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop aphids from spreading. Then, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. If the infestation is very bad, you can use pyrethrin-based insecticide. Follow the label instructions carefully. This will help save your cowpea crop.


Instruction: How can I improve my soil using cowpea?

Response: Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, making it more fertile for the next crop. After harvesting, leave the cowpea roots in the soil to enrich it. This will help your next crop grow better. This week, plan to rotate your crops and plant cowpea to improve your soil.


Instruction: What is the best chemical to use for cowpea aphids?

Response: My friend, use chemical only as last resort. If you must, imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray can help. But first, try neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Always follow the label instructions carefully. This week, check your farm and decide if you need to use chemicals.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus that spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, pick all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground, I tell you.


Instruction: How can I stop black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: The thing is, this disease loves wet and shady places. You must prune your trees to let light and air in. Also, harvest your ripe pods every two weeks. Do not let them overstay on the tree. And remember, always remove and destroy any bad pods you see.


Instruction: My cocoa farm is getting bad with black pod. What can I do to save my trees?

Response: You need to act fast. First, remove all the bad pods and burn them. Then, prune your trees to improve airflow. During the rainy season, use a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause black pod for my cocoa farm?

Response: Black pod is caused by a fungus that spreads quickly in wet and humid conditions. It turns the pods black and rotten. You must remove and destroy the bad pods to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: How often should I use fungicide to control black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: During the rainy season, you should use a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Always follow the label instructions carefully. But remember, fungicide alone is not enough. You must also prune your trees and remove bad pods.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting. How I go treat am?

Response: First, pick all the bad pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Then, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help reduce the humidity that the fungus loves. Also, use a copper-based fungicide during the rainy season.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: Prevention is better than cure. Prune your trees regularly to improve airflow. Harvest your ripe pods every two weeks. Do not let them overstay on the tree. And always remove and destroy any bad pods you see. This is called sanitation harvesting.


Instruction: How can I manage black pod disease in my cocoa farm during the rainy season?

Response: The rainy season is the worst time for black pod disease. You must be very careful. Use a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Also, prune your trees and remove any bad pods immediately. Do not let the disease spread.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black. What should I do?

Response: This is black pod disease. You must act fast. First, remove all the bad pods and burn them. Then, prune your trees to improve airflow. During the rainy season, use a copper-based fungicide every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop the spread of black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: The key is to remove and destroy all bad pods immediately. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will reduce the humidity that the fungus loves. Also, use a copper-based fungicide during the rainy season.


Instruction: How can I grow plantain without spending much money?

Response: My friend, plantain grows well with little money if you follow good practices. First thing first: plant at the start of the rains and space them well. Keep only 1 parent and 1-2 followers per mat. Mulch with free materials like grass to save water and stop weeds. This will give you a good harvest without spending much.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and brown. What is happening?

Response: This sounds like bunchy top disease. The thing is, there is no cure. Chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do not move suckers from this farm as the virus hides inside them.


Instruction: How I go stop plantain bunchy top from killing my farm?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. The moment you see symptoms, cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm so the virus cannot spread. Always plant clean suckers from disease-free sources to prevent this problem.


Instruction: What can I do to make my plantain grow better without spending much?

Response: Plantain loves potassium, but you don’t need expensive fertilizers. Use organic matter like compost or mulch with grass to feed the soil. Space your plants well for airflow and keep only 1 parent and 1-2 followers per mat. This will help your plantain grow strong without much cost.


Instruction: Why my plantain no get good leaves? They short and stiff.

Response: This is bunchy top disease. The leaves turn stiff and crowded at the top because the plant is infected. There is no cure, so cut the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Always plant clean suckers to avoid this problem.


Instruction: How can I save money when planting plantain?

Response: Plant at the start of the rains and space them well for good growth. Mulch with free materials like grass to save water and stop weeds. Keep only 1 parent and 1-2 followers per mat to avoid overcrowding. This will help your plantain grow well without spending much.


Instruction: My plantain leaves have dark green streaks. What is this?

Response: This is bunchy top disease. The dark green streaks turn yellow then brown. There is no cure, so cut the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do not move suckers from this farm as the virus hides inside them.


Instruction: How I go plant plantain for cheap?

Response: Plant at the start of the rains and space them well. Use free mulch like grass to save water and stop weeds. Keep only 1 parent and 1-2 followers per mat. This will help your plantain grow well without spending much. Always plant clean suckers to avoid disease.


Instruction: What can I do to make my plantain farm profitable without spending much?

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Use organic matter like compost or mulch with grass to feed the soil. Space your plants well for airflow and keep only 1 parent and 1-2 followers per mat. This will help your plantain grow strong and profitable without much cost.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don spoil. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is bunchy top disease. The leaves turn stiff and crowded at the top because the plant is infected. There is no cure, so cut the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Always plant clean suckers to avoid this problem.


Instruction: How I go know if my tomato get blight?

Response: My friend, check your lower leaves first. Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo. Late blight causes water-soaked patches that turn brown fast. If you see these, act quick — remove and burn those leaves today.


Instruction: What causes tomato blight to spread so fast?

Response: The thing is, blight loves wet, cool and humid weather. A week of rain can wipe out your whole farm. The spores spread through water, so keep your plants dry and remove infected parts immediately.


Instruction: Why my tomato leaves don spoil?

Response: If your leaves have dark spots with rings and yellow halos, it’s early blight. If they have water-soaked patches turning brown, it’s late blight. Both spread fast in wet weather. Remove and burn the bad leaves now to stop it.


Instruction: How can I prevent tomato blight?

Response: First thing first, don’t water from above — always water at the base. Spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week in rainy season. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season. Plant on ridges for better drainage.


Instruction: What should I do if I see blight on my tomato plants?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Remove and burn the infected leaves and plant parts today. Spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Keep your plants dry and improve airflow around them.


Instruction: How do I space my tomato plants to avoid blight?

Response: Space your plants 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows for good airflow. Stake or cage them at 30 cm height to keep fruits off the ground. This helps prevent blight from spreading through water splash.


Instruction: Can I compost tomato leaves with blight?

Response: No, my friend, you must not compost them. Burn the infected leaves and plant parts in a bag. Blight spores survive in compost and will infect your next crop. Always destroy infected parts.


Instruction: What fertilizer should I use for tomato plants to prevent blight?

Response: Use balanced NPK at planting, then top-dress with calcium nitrate when flowers appear. Healthy plants resist disease better. Also, spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week in rainy season for extra protection.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my tomatoes to prevent blight?

Response: Harvest every 2 to 3 days. Leaving ripe fruits on the plant attracts pests and encourages disease. Regular picking keeps your plants healthy and reduces blight risk.


Instruction: Is it safe to plant tomato in the same plot every year?

Response: No, I tell you, never plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. Rotate with maize or cowpea to break the blight cycle. This simple step can save your crop next season.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and curling up. What could be the problem?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cowpea aphids. They suck sap from your plants, causing leaves to turn yellow and curl. Check the undersides of leaves and young shoots for small black or brown insects clustered together. If you see them, act fast to stop them spreading.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea no grow well? Leaves don turn yellow and look like dey dry up.

Response: This could be cowpea aphids, my brother. They suck the life out of your plants, making them weak and yellow. Look for tiny black or brown bugs on your leaves and stems. If you find them, you must treat your plants quickly.


Instruction: I see small black bugs on my cowpea flowers and pods. The leaves have sticky stuff on them too. What is this?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids, my friend. The sticky stuff is called honeydew, which they produce. This honeydew can cause black mould to grow on your leaves, blocking sunlight. You need to control these aphids before they ruin your harvest.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are stunted and the leaves are wilting. What is happening?

Response: This is likely cowpea aphids. They suck the sap from your plants, causing them to grow poorly and wilt. Check your plants carefully for these tiny black or brown insects. If you find them, you must take action to save your crop.


Instruction: I notice small black insects on my cowpea shoots and flowers. The leaves have a black mouldy look. What should I do?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids, my friend. The black mould is caused by the sticky honeydew they produce. You need to control these aphids quickly. First, remove and destroy the heavily infested parts of your plants to stop the aphids from spreading.


Instruction: What are the tiny black bugs on my cowpea plants and why are the leaves sticky?

Response: Those tiny black bugs are cowpea aphids. The sticky stuff on your leaves is called honeydew, which the aphids produce. This honeydew can cause black mould to grow on your leaves, blocking sunlight. You need to control these aphids before they ruin your harvest.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are covered in black mould and the plants are not growing well. What is the cause?

Response: This is likely cowpea aphids, my friend. They produce a sticky substance called honeydew, which causes black mould to grow on your leaves. The aphids also suck sap from your plants, making them weak and stunted. You need to control these aphids quickly.


Instruction: I see small brown insects on my cowpea pods and the leaves are curling. What is this problem?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids, my brother. They suck sap from your plants, causing the leaves to curl and the pods to be damaged. You need to act fast to stop these aphids from spreading and ruining your crop.


Instruction: My cowpea plants have small black bugs and the leaves are turning yellow. What can I do?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids, my friend. They suck the sap from your plants, causing the leaves to turn yellow. You need to control these aphids quickly. First, remove and destroy the heavily infested parts of your plants to stop the aphids from spreading.


Instruction: What are the small black insects on my cowpea flowers and why are the leaves wilting?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids, my brother. They suck the sap from your plants, causing the leaves to wilt. You need to control these aphids quickly. First, remove and destroy the heavily infested parts of your plants to stop the aphids from spreading.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange spots with grey centers and brown edges. What is happening to my crop?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. The fungus attacks leaves and can destroy your crop if not treated early. First thing first, check your nitrogen fertilizer use — too much feeds the disease. Spray a fungicide like tricyclazole at the first sign of these spots. Also, consider planting blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA next season.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice plant for get dia head wey suppose carry padi?

Response: Ah, this could be neck blast, a bad type of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the stem where the grain grows, causing it to fall over. This disease loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. For now, spray a fungicide at boot stage before the grain head emerges. Next time, plant resistant varieties like FARO 57.


Instruction: My rice leaves have diamond-shaped spots with white centers. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal. This is rice blast disease, and it can destroy your crop fast. The fungus loves too much nitrogen, so check your fertilizer use. Spray a fungicide like isoprothiolane right away. Also, burn your rice straw after harvest to stop the fungus from coming back.


Instruction: What causes the grey spots with brown edges on my rice leaves?

Response: Those spots are from rice blast disease, caused by a fungus. The fungus thrives in cool nights and too much nitrogen. Spray a fungicide like propiconazole at the first sign of these spots. Also, make sure your field has proper water levels and good spacing between plants.


Instruction: Why are my rice plants falling over before harvest?

Response: This could be neck blast, a severe form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the stem, causing it to break. It loves too much nitrogen and cool, humid weather. Spray a fungicide at boot stage to prevent it. Next time, plant blast-resistant varieties like NERICA.


Instruction: My rice leaves have spindle-shaped lesions with grey centers. What should I do?

Response: This is rice blast disease, and it can ruin your crop. The fungus loves too much nitrogen, so check your fertilizer. Spray a fungicide like tricyclazole right away. Also, burn your rice straw after harvest to stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice padi for no grow well?

Response: If your rice has strange spots or is falling over, it could be rice blast disease. The fungus loves too much nitrogen and cool, humid weather. Spray a fungicide like isoprothiolane at the first sign of trouble. Also, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 next time.


Instruction: What is the most destructive rice disease in the world, and how do I recognize it?

Response: Rice blast is the most destructive rice disease. Look for diamond or spindle-shaped spots on leaves with grey centers and brown edges. If the stem is attacked, it can fall over. Spray a fungicide like propiconazole at the first sign. Also, plant resistant varieties like FARO 57.


Instruction: My rice plants have spots with white centers and brown edges. Is this a problem?

Response: Yes, this is rice blast disease, and it can destroy your crop. The fungus loves too much nitrogen, so check your fertilizer. Spray a fungicide like tricyclazole right away. Also, burn your rice straw after harvest to stop the fungus from coming back.


Instruction: Why are my rice leaves turning grey and brown?

Response: This is rice blast disease, caused by a fungus. It loves too much nitrogen and cool, humid weather. Spray a fungicide like isoprothiolane at the first sign. Also, make sure your field has proper water levels and good spacing between plants. Plant resistant varieties like NERICA next time.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'My cassava leaves have yellow patches and look curled up. What is happening?'

Response: My friend, this is cassava mosaic disease. Whiteflies spread this virus, and it makes your tubers small and worthless. First thing first, remove and burn those infected plants right away. Then, check your other plants carefully.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'When is the best time to plant cassava?'

Response: The best time to plant cassava is at the start of the rainy season. This way, the plants get enough water to grow strong. Make sure to space them 1 metre apart for good yield and easy weeding.


Instruction: A farmer asks in pidgin: 'Na so I go sabi say my cassava don spoil, wetin dey cause am?'

Response: This could be cassava mosaic disease. Whiteflies carry the virus that causes yellow patches and curling leaves. The thing is, you must remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Do not let the whiteflies spread it to healthy plants.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'How can I prevent cassava mosaic disease?'

Response: Use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants only. This is the most important rule. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps around your farm.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'What is the best spacing for cassava plants?'

Response: Space your cassava plants 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives them enough room to grow well and makes weeding easier. Good spacing also helps improve your yield.


Instruction: A farmer asks in pidgin: 'How I go treat dis cassava mosaic?'

Response: First, remove and burn all infected plants immediately. Then, use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies that spread the virus. Also, plant resistant varieties next time.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'Why should I mound the soil before planting cassava?'

Response: Mounding the soil improves drainage and helps the tubers grow bigger. It also makes harvesting easier later on. Take time to mound the soil before you plant.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'How often should I weed my cassava farm?'

Response: Weed your cassava farm regularly for the first 3 months. After that, the cassava plants will shade out most weeds. Regular weeding helps your plants grow strong and healthy.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'When is the right time to harvest cassava?'

Response: Harvest cassava at 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you plan to use it for. Check your plants regularly to see when they are ready.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'Can I replant stems from a farm that had mosaic disease?'

Response: No, my friend, do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic disease. The virus travels with the stem. Always use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants only.


Instruction: My tomato leaves get wet when I water them. Is this bad?

Response: My friend, yes it is bad. Wet leaves attract blight disease. Always water at the base of the plant, not on the leaves. Today, check your watering method and adjust if needed.


Instruction: I plant tomato in the same field every year. Is this good?

Response: No, no, no! This is very bad. Blight disease will keep coming back. Rotate with maize or cowpea next season. Start planning your crop rotation today.