Instruction: Is there a way to stop mango anthracnose before it starts?

Response: Yes, my friend! Prune your mango trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly—they carry the disease. Avoid overhead irrigation, as it keeps the leaves wet for too long. Do these things this week to keep your trees healthy.


Instruction: What is the best time to prune mango trees?

Response: The best time to prune mango trees is after harvest. This helps remove dead wood and improves air circulation, which stops diseases like mango anthracnose. Do this today or this week.


Instruction: How can I keep my mango trees healthy?

Response: To keep your mango trees healthy, prune them after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation—it keeps the leaves wet for too long. Do these things this week to keep your trees strong.


Instruction: What should I avoid doing when I see plantain leaves turning yellow and brown?

Response: My friend, if you see yellow and brown leaves with dark streaks, that's bunchy top virus. First thing first — do not try to treat it. There is no cure. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This week, check all your plants and remove any showing these signs.


Instruction: Why I no go move suckers from my friend's farm?

Response: The thing is, if your friend's farm had bunchy top virus, the virus hides inside the suckers with no signs. You might carry it to your farm without knowing. To stay safe, only plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. This week, ask around for trusted sources of clean planting material.


Instruction: Is it okay to keep many suckers around each plantain mat?

Response: No, my friend, that's not good. Too many suckers waste the plant's energy and reduce your harvest. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. This week, go to your farm and remove extra suckers to give the main plants more strength.


Instruction: What should I avoid when planting plantain?

Response: Do not plant too close together. Plantain needs space for airflow to prevent diseases. Space them 3 metres by 3 metres. Also, do not plant at the wrong time — start at the beginning of the rainy season for best results. This week, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: Why I no go use any fertilizer for my plantain?

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially for potassium. If you don't fertilize, your plants will struggle to grow. Use a potassium-rich fertilizer to keep them strong. This week, ask at your agro input shop for suitable fertilizer and apply it carefully.


Instruction: What is the worst mistake farmers make with plantain bunchy top?

Response: The worst mistake is trying to treat it. There is no cure, my friend. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm so it doesn't reshoot. This week, inspect your plants and remove any infected ones immediately.


Instruction: Why I no go plant suckers from a farm that had bunchy top?

Response: The virus hides inside the suckers with no signs. You might carry it to your farm without knowing. Always plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. This week, check your sources of planting material and ensure they are disease-free.


Instruction: What should I avoid doing to control weeds around plantain?

Response: Do not let weeds compete with your plantain. Mulch heavily around the plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds. This week, gather dry grass or other organic material and spread it thickly around your plantain.


Instruction: Why I no go plant plantain at the wrong time?

Response: Planting at the wrong time means the suckers won't establish well. Start planting at the beginning of the rainy season for best results. This week, check the weather and plan your planting for the next rainy season if needed.


Instruction: What is the biggest no-no with plantain bunchy top virus?

Response: The biggest no-no is ignoring the signs and not acting fast. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm so it doesn't reshoot. This week, inspect your plants and remove any infected ones immediately.


Instruction: What is rice blast?

Response: Rice blast is a very bad disease caused by a fungus. It makes diamond-shaped spots on leaves and can even break the neck of your rice plant, making it fall over. This can destroy your harvest if not controlled.


Instruction: How do I know if my rice has blast disease?

Response: Check your leaves for diamond or spindle-shaped spots with grey centers and brown or red edges. If you see these, it's likely blast. The most dangerous type attacks the neck of the plant, causing it to fall over.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over before harvest, wetin dey cause this?

Response: That sounds like neck blast, a very bad type of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, making it weak and fall over. You must act fast to save your crop.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent rice blast?

Response: First thing first, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. Keep your field well-watered but not too wet. Use balanced fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: How do I treat rice blast if I see it on my plants?

Response: Spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. For neck blast, spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything, so act fast.


Instruction: Can too much fertilizer cause rice blast?

Response: Yes, my friend. Too much nitrogen fertilizer makes your rice plants weak and feeds the fungus. Always use balanced NPK fertilizer and follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What should I do with rice straw after harvest?

Response: Burn the rice straw after harvest. This destroys fungal spores that survive in crop residues and can cause new infections next season.


Instruction: Is there a good time to spray for neck blast?

Response: Yes, the best time is at the boot stage, before the panicle emerges. This is when the fungus is most vulnerable. Do not wait until you see the disease, act before it starts.


Instruction: My rice field is drying out and flooding alternately, is this bad?

Response: Yes, this is very bad for your rice. Keep the water levels steady. Do not let the field dry out and flood alternately. This creates perfect conditions for rice blast to thrive.


Instruction: My mango leaves have dark brown spots that aren't going away. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. The dark brown spots on leaves are a sign of this fungus disease. First thing first, remove all affected leaves from the tree and burn them. Do not compost them. Also, clear away any fallen leaves and fruits from the ground around the tree.


Instruction: I see black spots on my mango flowers. What is happening?

Response: Those black spots mean your mango flowers are suffering from anthracnose. The fungus is killing the flowers before they can set fruit. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Follow the label instructions carefully, and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season.


Instruction: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but turn black after 2 days. What is the problem?

Response: This is classic anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit when you harvested it. The thing is, once the fruit starts to ripen, the disease shows itself. To prevent this, harvest carefully without bruising the fruit, and store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: My mango tree flowers are dropping before they can bear fruit. Why is this happening?

Response: This is likely blossom blight caused by anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers and kills them before fruit sets. To protect your tree, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation and reduce humidity around the flowers.


Instruction: Na so dis mango leaves dey turn brown and get spoil for my farm. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Dis one na mango anthracnose. The fungus dey cause am. You go see dark brown spots on the leaves. Make you remove all the bad leaves and burn dem. No need to panic, just clear the ground around the tree well well.


Instruction: My mango fruits have dark sunken spots. What is this disease and how do I treat it?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. The dark sunken spots expand as the fruit ripens. To treat it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rains. Also, handle harvested fruits with extreme care to avoid wounds that let the fungus in.


Instruction: I see black spots on my mango leaves and flowers. What should I do?

Response: This is anthracnose. The black spots on leaves and flowers are signs of the fungus. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Also, prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation.


Instruction: My mango tree leaves have dark brown irregular spots. What is causing this?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. The dark brown spots on leaves are a sign. To prevent it from spreading, remove all affected leaves and burn them. Also, avoid overhead irrigation which keeps the foliage wet for too long.


Instruction: I harvest my mangoes carefully but they still turn black after a few days. Why?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit when you harvested it. To prevent this, store the fruits in a cool dry place immediately after harvest. Also, make sure to harvest at the correct maturity — a slight colour change at the tip is the sign for most varieties.


Instruction: My mango flowers are getting black spots and falling off. How can I save my tree?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus is killing the flowers before they can set fruit. To save your tree, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly to reduce the spread of fungal spores.


Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from destroying my crops?

Response: My friend, the thing is rice blast loves cool nights and too much water. First thing first, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. Keep your field properly flooded but don't let it dry out and flood again. Also, don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Use balanced NPK instead. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis rice blast for my farm?

Response: Rice blast is caused by a fungus that loves cool nights and too much moisture. Too much nitrogen fertilizer also makes it worse. The fungus attacks leaves and stems, causing them to turn brown and die. To stop it, plant resistant varieties and manage your water properly. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent rice blast in my paddy field?

Response: To prevent rice blast, keep your water levels steady in the paddy field. Don't let it dry out and then flood again. Plant resistant varieties like FARO 57. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: My rice plants have brown spots. Wetin I go do?

Response: Those brown spots could be rice blast, a disease caused by a fungus. It loves cool nights and too much moisture. To stop it, plant resistant varieties and manage your water properly. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants. Also, use balanced NPK fertilizer and don't over-apply nitrogen.


Instruction: How can I protect my rice from neck blast?

Response: Neck blast is the most damaging form of rice blast. It attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to fall over. To protect your rice, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything. Also, plant resistant varieties like NERICA series. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: What should I do if I see diamond-shaped lesions on my rice leaves?

Response: Those diamond-shaped lesions are a sign of rice blast, a disease caused by a fungus. It thrives in cool nights and high humidity. To stop it, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Also, plant resistant varieties and manage your water properly. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast from spreading in my field?

Response: To prevent rice blast from spreading, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field. Don't let it dry out and flood alternately. Plant resistant varieties and use balanced NPK fertilizer. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over. What is happening?

Response: This could be neck blast, a severe form of rice blast. It attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to fall over. To prevent this, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the boot stage. Also, plant resistant varieties. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: What can I do to stop rice blast from ruining my harvest?

Response: To stop rice blast from ruining your harvest, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52. Maintain proper water levels and use balanced NPK fertilizer. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: How can I manage rice blast in my farm?

Response: To manage rice blast, plant resistant varieties and maintain proper water levels. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and don't over-apply nitrogen. This week, check your field and remove any infected plants to stop the disease from spreading. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: When should I plant cowpea to avoid aphids?

Response: My friend, plant cowpea early in the season. That way you escape the peak aphid populations that come in the dry season. First thing first, check your seed supply and prepare your land this week.


Instruction: Is there a good time to plant cowpea with maize?

Response: Yes, intercrop cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This helps reduce aphid pressure. The thing is, maize grows taller and can shade the cowpea, making it harder for aphids to find them. Start planning your planting layout now.


Instruction: My cowpea don dey weak, leaves turn yellow, wetin I do?

Response: This might be aphids. Check for small black or dark brown insects on young shoots and flowers. If you see them, act fast! Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Do this today before the infestation spreads.


Instruction: How I go know if cowpea aphids don attack my farm?

Response: Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects clustered on young shoots, flowers, and pods. You might also see sticky honeydew and black sooty mould on leaves. Check your plants carefully today and take action if you spot any signs.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant cowpea to avoid pests?

Response: Plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Early planting helps your cowpea grow strong before aphids become a major problem. Prepare your land and seeds this week.


Instruction: Can I plant cowpea next to another farm with aphids?

Response: No, don't plant cowpea downwind or next to already infested farms. Aphids can spread quickly, and you don't want them jumping to your plants. Scout your farm's surroundings today and plan your planting accordingly.


Instruction: What time of day is best to spray for aphids on cowpea?

Response: Spray early in the morning or late in the afternoon. This is when aphids are most active, and the spray will be more effective. Mix neem oil with soap or use garlic spray. Prepare your spray mix today.


Instruction: How often should I check my cowpea for aphids?

Response: Check your cowpea plants every 2-3 days, especially during the dry season. Early detection is key to controlling aphids. Make a habit of checking your plants regularly this week.


Instruction: When should I use chemical sprays on cowpea aphids?

Response: Only use chemical sprays like imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray as a last resort. First, try natural methods like neem oil or garlic spray. Follow the label instructions carefully if you must use chemicals. Scout your farm today to decide on the best action.


Instruction: Is there a good time to plant cowpea to improve soil fertility?

Response: Yes, cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, improving fertility for the next crop. Plant early in the season so it has time to enrich the soil before the next planting. Start preparing your land this week.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: My friend, the best time to plant plantain suckers is at the start of the rainy season. This gives them plenty of water to establish strong roots. Check your weather patterns and get your suckers ready to plant when the rains begin.


Instruction: How I go know when to start planting my plantain?

Response: First thing first, you must plant at the beginning of the rainy season. This is when the soil has enough water for the suckers to take root well. If you plant too late, the plants may not grow properly. So, watch the weather and prepare your suckers when the rains start.


Instruction: What is the ideal spacing for plantain plants to ensure good airflow?

Response: Plantain needs space to grow well and avoid diseases. Space your plants at 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows good airflow between plants and makes harvesting easier. Measure your field properly before planting to get this spacing right.


Instruction: When should I start desuckering my plantain plants?

Response: You should desuckering your plantain plants early. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat at any time. This helps the main plant grow strong and produce a good bunch. Start desuckering as soon as you see new suckers growing.


Instruction: Why is it important to mulch plantain plants and when should I do it?

Response: Mulching is very important for plantain. It keeps the soil moist and stops weeds from growing. Mulch heavily around your plants at the start of the rainy season. Use dry leaves, grass, or any organic material you have available.


Instruction: When do I need to apply fertilizer to my plantain plants?

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Apply potassium-rich fertilizer at the start of the rainy season when you plant the suckers. This gives the plants the nutrients they need to grow strong. Follow the label instructions carefully when applying any fertilizer.


Instruction: How often should I check my plantain plants for signs of bunchy top?

Response: You should check your plantain plants regularly, at least once a week. Look for short, stiff, narrow leaves that are crowded at the top. If you see dark green streaks and dots along the veins, that is a sign of bunchy top. The moment you see these symptoms, take action immediately.


Instruction: When is the right time to chop down a plantain plant with bunchy top?

Response: The right time to chop down a plantain plant with bunchy top is the moment you see symptoms. Do not wait. Chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat right away. This kills the corm underground so it cannot reshoot and keep hosting the virus.


Instruction: Why is it important to plant certified clean suckers and when should I do it?

Response: Planting certified clean suckers is very important to avoid diseases like bunchy top. The virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Plant only certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets at the start of the rainy season.


Instruction: When should I start preparing my field for planting plantain suckers?

Response: You should start preparing your field for planting plantain suckers before the rainy season begins. Clear the land, measure the spacing, and make sure the soil is ready. This way, you can plant your suckers as soon as the rains start and give them the best chance to grow well.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are covered in tiny black bugs! What is happening?

Response: My friend, those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap and spread disease. First thing first, mix neem oil with soap and spray on the plants. Also, check nearby plants and remove any heavily infested parts.


Instruction: I just noticed my cowpea leaves are curling and turning yellow. What is the cause?

Response: That sounds like aphid damage. They suck the life out of your plants and leave a sticky mess. Start by spraying neem oil mixed with soap. Also, look for ladybird beetles—they eat aphids and are your friends.


Instruction: I see black bugs on my cowpea flowers and pods. They are spreading fast. What should I do?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Those are aphids, and they spread viruses. Spray garlic water or neem oil mixed with soap. Remove and burn the worst affected parts to stop them from spreading.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting and have black mould on the leaves. What is happening?

Response: That black mould is from the sticky honeydew aphids leave behind. They are sucking the life out of your plants. Spray neem oil with soap and remove the worst affected parts right away.


Instruction: My cowpea farm is next to another farm with lots of aphids. How can I protect my plants?

Response: Avoid planting downwind of infested farms. Intercrop your cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Also, plant early to escape the peak aphid season in the dry months.


Instruction: I see small black bugs on my cowpea shoots. They are multiplying fast. What can I do?

Response: Those are aphids, and they are dangerous. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic water. Remove and destroy the worst affected parts to stop them from spreading to the whole farm.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are sticky and have black mould. What is causing this?

Response: The sticky stuff is honeydew from aphids, and the black mould grows on it. Spray neem oil mixed with soap and remove the worst affected parts. Also, look for ladybird beetles—they eat aphids.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are stunted and have yellow leaves. What is the problem?

Response: That sounds like aphid damage. They suck the sap and spread viruses. Spray neem oil mixed with soap and remove the worst affected parts. Also, intercrop with maize to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: I see tiny black bugs on my cowpea flowers. They are spreading fast. What should I do?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Those are aphids, and they spread viruses. Spray neem oil mixed with soap and remove the worst affected parts. Also, plant early to escape the peak aphid season.


Instruction: My cowpea farm is next to a farm with lots of aphids. How can I protect my plants?

Response: Avoid planting downwind of infested farms. Intercrop your cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Also, plant early to escape the peak aphid season in the dry months.


Instruction: My friend, my cassava leaves get yellow and green patches. The leaves also curl up. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is cassava mosaic disease. It is caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First thing first, remove and destroy those infected plants immediately so the whiteflies don't spread it to healthy plants. Then, plant disease-free stems next time.


Instruction: I plant my cassava but the tubers very small. What I go do?

Response: The thing is, small tubers can happen if your plants have mosaic disease. Check for yellow and green patches on leaves. If you see them, remove those plants now. Also, space your plants 1 metre by 1 metre for better growth. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419 for bigger tubers.


Instruction: My cassava farm has whiteflies everywhere. How I go stop them?

Response: Whiteflies spread cassava mosaic disease. Use neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm to catch them. Also, remove any infected plants immediately to break the cycle. Plant resistant varieties next time.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava. When is the best time?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season so the plants establish well. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Use disease-free stems only, my friend.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don spoil. The leaves get yellow and green patches. What is this sickness?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease. It is caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately to stop the spread. Use disease-free stems for your next planting.


Instruction: I plant cassava but the leaves curl and have yellow patches. How I go fix this?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease. Remove and destroy the infected plants right away. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572 next time.


Instruction: My cassava farm has many whiteflies. The leaves also get yellow and green patches. What is happening?

Response: The whiteflies are spreading cassava mosaic disease. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Plant disease-free stems next time.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava. How I go space the plants?

Response: Space your cassava plants 1 metre by 1 metre for good yield and ease of weeding. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage. Use disease-free stems only, my friend.


Instruction: My cassava leaves get yellow and green patches. The leaves also curl. What is this sickness?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease. It is caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Use disease-free stems for your next planting.


Instruction: I plant cassava but the tubers very small. What I go do to get bigger tubers?

Response: Space your plants 1 metre by 1 metre for better growth. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419 for bigger tubers. Check for mosaic disease and remove infected plants immediately.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and the plant is not growing tall. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like bunchy top virus. The leaves become stiff, narrow, and crowded at the top. The thing is, there is no cure. First thing first: chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this today before it spreads.


Instruction: Na so my plantain don dey look like dis one wey get small leaves and dark green lines for top. How I go treat am?

Response: I tell you, that one na bunchy top virus. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will kill the corm so the virus no dey spread. Do this one today, o!


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. What does this mean?

Response: Ah, those streaks are a bad sign — it's bunchy top virus. The leaves will turn yellow and brown, and the plant will never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do this immediately to stop the virus.


Instruction: My plantain plants are not growing well and the leaves are crowded at the top. What should I do?

Response: That sounds like bunchy top virus. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top. There is no cure, so you must act fast. Chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do this today to prevent the virus from spreading.


Instruction: I just noticed some of my plantain leaves have dark green dots and lines. Is this serious?

Response: Yes, my friend, that is bunchy top virus. The leaves will turn yellow and brown, and the plant will stop growing. There is no cure, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do this immediately to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain plants are not producing bunches. The leaves are stiff and crowded at the top. What is wrong?

Response: That is bunchy top virus. The plant will never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do this today to prevent the virus from spreading.


Instruction: I see dark green lines on my plantain leaves. What is causing this?

Response: That is bunchy top virus. The leaves will turn yellow and brown, and the plant will stop growing. There is no cure, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do this immediately to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and the plant is not growing. What can I do?

Response: That is bunchy top virus. The leaves become stiff, narrow, and crowded at the top. There is no cure, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do this today to prevent the virus from spreading.


Instruction: I notice some of my plantain leaves have dark green streaks. Is this a problem?

Response: Yes, my friend, that is bunchy top virus. The leaves will turn yellow and brown, and the plant will stop growing. There is no cure, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do this immediately to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain plants are not growing well and the leaves are crowded at the top. What should I do?

Response: That sounds like bunchy top virus. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top. There is no cure, so you must act fast. Chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do this today to prevent the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning brown and stiff, what is happening?

Response: Ah, my friend, this sounds like bunchy top disease. The leaves become stiff and brown because the virus stops the plant from growing properly. There is no cure, so first thing first: chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This will stop the virus from spreading. Make sure to plant only certified clean suckers next time.


Instruction: How I go know say my plantain get bunchy top?

Response: Wetin you dey see? If the leaves don turn stiff, narrow, and crowded at the top, with dark green streaks and dots along the veins, then it's bunchy top. The plant will never produce a bunch. No need to panic, but you must act fast — chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: The best time to plant plantain suckers is at the start of the rainy season. This gives the suckers enough water to establish well. Make sure to space them at 3 metres by 3 metres for good airflow and easy harvesting. Also, keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat to avoid overcrowding.


Instruction: My plantain farm has bunchy top, what I go do?

Response: I tell you, my friend, bunchy top is a serious problem. The moment you see symptoms, chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground so it cannot reshoot and keep hosting the virus. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top — the virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Plant only certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets next time.


Instruction: How can I prevent bunchy top in my plantain farm?

Response: Prevention is better than cure, my friend. First, always plant certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Also, keep your farm clean and remove any infected plants immediately. This will help stop the spread of the virus.


Instruction: What type of fertilizer is good for plantain?

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. So, apply potassium-rich fertilizer to your plantain farm. This will help the plants grow strong and healthy. Make sure to follow the label instructions carefully when applying any fertilizer.


Instruction: Why my plantain not fruiting?

Response: If your plantain is not fruiting, it might be because of bunchy top disease. The virus stops the plant from growing properly and it will never produce a bunch. Chop the infected plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading to other plants. Make sure to plant only certified clean suckers next time.


Instruction: How I go space my plantain suckers?

Response: Space your plantain suckers at 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows for good airflow between plants and makes harvesting easier. Also, keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat to avoid overcrowding. This will help your plantains grow healthy and strong.


Instruction: What I go do to stop bunchy top from spreading?

Response: The moment you see symptoms of bunchy top, chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground so it cannot reshoot and keep hosting the virus. Also, never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top — the virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Plant only certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets next time.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are curling up and turning yellow. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like aphid attack. Those tiny black or brown insects suck sap from your plants, causing leaves to curl and yellow. First thing first, check the underside of leaves and young shoots for clusters of these pests. You can spray neem oil mixed with soap to control them. Also, try to plant early next time to avoid peak aphid season.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea flowers and pods. The leaves are sticky and turning black. How I go treat am?

Response: Ah, those are cowpea aphids! The sticky stuff is honeydew they produce, and the black stuff is sooty mould growing on it. This is serious because aphids spread viruses. You must act fast: spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Remove and destroy badly infested parts. Next time, intercrop with maize to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are stunted and wilting. What could be the problem?

Response: Stunting and wilting in cowpea often mean aphid attack. Those tiny pests suck sap, weakening the plants. Check for clusters of black or brown insects on young shoots and flowers. Spray neem oil with soap or use pyrethrin-based insecticide. Also, plant early to avoid peak aphid populations in dry season.


Instruction: I see small black bugs on my cowpea leaves. The plants are not growing well. What is this?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap, causing stunted growth and leaf curl. The thing is, they also spread viruses, so even a small infestation is dangerous. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop them spreading.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are covered in black mould. There are small black insects on the plants. What is the cause?

Response: The black mould is sooty mould growing on the sticky honeydew that aphids produce. Those small black insects are the aphids. They weaken plants and spread viruses. Spray neem oil with soap or use pyrethrin-based insecticide. Also, intercrop with maize next time to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: I see tiny brown insects on my cowpea flowers. The leaves are curling. How I go stop this?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They cause leaves to curl and spread viruses. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Remove and destroy badly infested parts. Next time, plant early to avoid peak aphid season and intercrop with maize to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are not growing well. The leaves are yellow and sticky. What is the problem?

Response: This sounds like aphid attack. Those tiny pests suck sap, causing yellowing and stunting. The sticky stuff is honeydew they produce. Spray neem oil with soap or use pyrethrin-based insecticide. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop them spreading.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea pods. The plants are wilting. What is happening?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap, causing wilting and spreading viruses. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Remove and destroy badly infested parts. Next time, plant early to avoid peak aphid populations and intercrop with maize to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are covered in black stuff and there are small black insects. What is this?

Response: The black stuff is sooty mould growing on honeydew that aphids produce. Those small black insects are the aphids. They weaken plants and spread viruses. Spray neem oil with soap or use pyrethrin-based insecticide. Also, intercrop with maize next time to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: I see tiny brown bugs on my cowpea shoots. The leaves are curling up. What is this?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They cause leaves to curl and spread viruses. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts. Next time, plant early to avoid peak aphid season and intercrop with maize to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: What makes groundnut rosette more dangerous than other groundnut diseases?

Response: My friend, groundnut rosette is extra dangerous because it strikes early in the season and can wipe out your entire crop. The thing is, once a plant gets infected, there is no cure — you must remove it immediately. To protect your farm, plant early at the very start of rains and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Check with your extension officer for local resistant varieties.


Instruction: How is groundnut rosette different from normal groundnut growth?

Response: When groundnut rosette attacks, the plants stay very small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves that bunch together. Normal groundnut plants grow tall and spread out. If you see these signs, remove the infected plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Plant resistant varieties and control aphids to protect your crop.


Instruction: Why is it better to plant groundnut early in the season?

Response: Planting early helps your groundnut escape the peak aphid populations that come later. These aphids spread the deadly groundnut rosette virus. By planting early, your crop can grow strong before the aphids become too many. Use resistant varieties and insecticide seed treatment for extra protection.


Instruction: What is the difference between groundnut rosette and other groundnut diseases?

Response: Groundnut rosette is different because it is caused by a virus spread by aphids. Once a plant is infected, it will never recover — you must remove it immediately. Other diseases may not be as deadly or may have treatments. To protect your crop, use resistant varieties and control aphids with insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: How come groundnut rosette is worse than other diseases?

Response: Groundnut rosette is worse because it can cause total crop failure if it strikes early. The virus spreads quickly through aphids, and there is no cure once a plant is infected. You must remove infected plants immediately. To prevent it, plant early, use resistant varieties, and control aphids with insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: Wetin dey make groundnut rosette worse pass other groundnut disease?

Response: Groundnut rosette worse pass other diseases because na virus wey dey kill plant fast-fast. If you no remove infected plants immediately, the disease go spread to all your farm. The thing is, if it strike early, your whole crop go spoil. To prevent am, plant early, use resistant varieties, and control aphids with insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: Why is groundnut rosette more dangerous than other groundnut diseases?

Response: Groundnut rosette is more dangerous because it is a virus with no cure. Once a plant is infected, it must be removed immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Other diseases may not be as deadly or may have treatments. To protect your crop, plant early, use resistant varieties, and control aphids with insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: How is groundnut rosette different from other groundnut diseases?

Response: Groundnut rosette is different because it is caused by a virus spread by aphids. Infected plants stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. There is no cure, so you must remove infected plants immediately. Other diseases may not be as deadly or may have treatments. To prevent groundnut rosette, plant early, use resistant varieties, and control aphids with insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: Why is groundnut rosette more dangerous than other groundnut diseases?

Response: Groundnut rosette is more dangerous because it can cause total crop failure if it strikes early. The virus spreads quickly through aphids, and there is no cure once a plant is infected. You must remove infected plants immediately. To protect your crop, plant early, use resistant varieties, and control aphids with insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: How come groundnut rosette is worse than other diseases?

Response: Groundnut rosette is worse because it is a virus with no cure. Once a plant is infected, it must be removed immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Other diseases may not be as deadly or may have treatments. To prevent groundnut rosette, plant early, use resistant varieties, and control aphids with insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: How can I stop my rice from getting this blast disease?

Response: My friend, first thing first: don't overcrowd your seedlings when you transplant them. Give them space to breathe. Also, don't overuse nitrogen fertilizer - it's like feeding the fungus directly. Use balanced NPK fertilizer instead. And burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy the fungus hiding there. Start doing these things today.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause blast disease for my rice?

Response: The thing is, blast disease is caused by a fungus that loves cool nights and wet conditions. It also thrives when you use too much nitrogen fertilizer. So, don't overfeed your rice with nitrogen. Use balanced NPK fertilizer instead. And make sure to burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy the fungus hiding there.


Instruction: How can I prevent blast disease in my rice farm?

Response: To prevent blast disease, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field. Don't let it dry out and flood alternately. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or FARO 57. These varieties can help you a lot. Start planning your next planting with these varieties in mind.


Instruction: What can I do to keep blast disease away from my rice?

Response: Keep blast disease away by maintaining proper water levels and not overusing nitrogen fertilizer. Also, burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy the fungus. Start implementing these practices today to protect your rice.


Instruction: How do I stop my rice from falling over from blast disease?

Response: To stop your rice from falling over from neck blast, spray fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything. Also, don't overuse nitrogen fertilizer. Start planning your fungicide application for the next boot stage.


Instruction: What should I do to avoid blast disease in my rice?

Response: Avoid blast disease by maintaining proper water levels and not overcrowding your seedlings. Also, use balanced NPK fertilizer and burn your rice straw after harvest. Start implementing these practices today to keep your rice healthy.


Instruction: How can I protect my rice from blast disease?

Response: Protect your rice from blast disease by planting resistant varieties like the NERICA series. Also, maintain proper water levels and don't overuse nitrogen fertilizer. Start planning your next planting with these resistant varieties.


Instruction: What practices can help me prevent blast disease in my rice?

Response: Practices like maintaining proper water levels, not overusing nitrogen fertilizer, and burning rice straw after harvest can help prevent blast disease. Also, plant resistant varieties. Start implementing these practices today to protect your rice.


Instruction: How do I keep blast disease from destroying my rice?

Response: Keep blast disease from destroying your rice by maintaining proper water levels and not overcrowding your seedlings. Also, use balanced NPK fertilizer and burn your rice straw after harvest. Start implementing these practices today to save your rice.


Instruction: What can I do to ensure my rice doesn't get blast disease?

Response: Ensure your rice doesn't get blast disease by maintaining proper water levels and not overusing nitrogen fertilizer. Also, plant resistant varieties and burn your rice straw after harvest. Start planning your next planting with these resistant varieties.


Instruction: How fast does tomato blight spread?

Response: Tomato blight spreads very fast, especially in wet, cool and humid conditions. A single week of rain can wipe out your entire farm. First thing first, remove and destroy any infected leaves or plants you see today.


Instruction: My friend, how do I know if my tomato plants have blight?

Response: Check your lower leaves first. Early blight shows dark brown spots with yellow halos. Late blight causes greyish-green patches that turn brown. If you see these, act fast — remove and burn those leaves today.


Instruction: Tomato don spoil for my farm, wetin dey cause am?

Response: If your tomatoes are rotting, it could be blight. Look for dark spots or wet-looking patches on leaves. Blight spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected parts now to stop it.


Instruction: What weather makes tomato blight spread quickly?

Response: Wet, cool and humid weather makes blight spread like fire. If rain is coming, be ready. Spray fungicide every 7 days and keep leaves dry. Water at the base, not overhead.


Instruction: How can I stop tomato blight from spreading to other plants?

Response: The thing is, blight spreads through water and wind. First, remove and burn any infected leaves or plants. Then spray fungicide every week during rainy season. Keep your plants dry and well-spaced.


Instruction: Why is my tomato blight getting worse every day?

Response: Blight spreads very fast in wet weather. If you don't remove infected parts quickly, it will keep spreading. Today, check all your plants and burn any infected leaves. Also, spray fungicide.


Instruction: Can tomato blight kill all my plants in one week?

Response: Yes, it can. In wet weather, blight can destroy your entire farm in days. Act fast — remove and burn infected parts now. Spray fungicide every 7 days and keep leaves dry.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomato plants have early or late blight?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with yellow halos on lower leaves. Late blight causes greyish-green patches that turn brown. Both spread fast in wet weather. Check your plants now and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have dark spots, what is this?

Response: Those dark spots could be early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn those leaves today. Also, spray fungicide every week during rainy season.


Instruction: How can I prevent tomato blight from spreading to my healthy plants?

Response: First, remove and burn any infected leaves or plants. Then spray fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Keep your plants dry — water at the base, not overhead. Also, rotate your crops and plant on raised beds.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots. What is happening?

Response: My friend, those brown spots could be mango anthracnose. This fungus loves wet weather. First thing first, remove all affected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. Prune your tree to improve air circulation and reduce humidity. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis black spots on my mango fruits?

Response: Ah, those black spots are mango anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit before harvest. It spreads fast in humid weather. Handle your fruits carefully when harvesting - no dropping or bruising. Store them in a cool, dry place right away. Spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering and every 10 days in rainy season.


Instruction: I noticed dark brown spots on my mango leaves. What should I do?

Response: Those dark brown spots are signs of mango anthracnose. This fungus thrives in wet conditions. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Prune your tree to improve air circulation. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. Why is this happening?

Response: This is blossom blight caused by mango anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers and kills them before fruit can set. Spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation and reduce humidity.


Instruction: I harvested my mangoes and they turned black after 2 days. What went wrong?

Response: This is a classic sign of mango anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit before harvest. Handle your fruits with extreme care when harvesting - no dropping or bruising. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately. To prevent this, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season.


Instruction: What causes the black lesions on my mango fruits?

Response: Those black lesions are caused by mango anthracnose. The fungus enters the fruit and spreads rapidly in humid conditions. Handle your fruits carefully when harvesting - no dropping or bruising. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately. Spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: My mango leaves have irregular dark brown spots. What is the problem?

Response: Those irregular dark brown spots are signs of mango anthracnose. This fungus loves wet weather. Remove all affected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. Prune your tree to improve air circulation and reduce humidity. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season.


Instruction: Why are my mango fruits developing sunken black spots?

Response: Those sunken black spots are caused by mango anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit before harvest. Handle your fruits with extreme care when harvesting - no dropping or bruising. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately. To prevent this, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: My mango tree has brown spots on leaves and black spots on fruits. What can I do?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. The fungus causes brown spots on leaves and black spots on fruits. Remove all affected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. Prune your tree to improve air circulation. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see dark spots on my mango leaves and flowers are dying. What is the issue?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. The fungus causes dark spots on leaves and kills flowers before fruiting. Spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation and reduce humidity. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: My friend, my tomato leaf don dey turn brown-brown with small rings, wetin dey cause this?

Response: That sound like early blight, my friend. It starts on lower leaves with dark brown spots and yellow halos. First thing first, remove those bad leaves and burn them, don't compost. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rain. Also, water only at the base of plants to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: I notice grey-green patches on my tomato leaves that turn brown fast, especially when it rains. What is happening and how do I stop it?

Response: That's late blight, a very serious disease. It spreads fast in wet weather and can destroy your farm in days. Remove and burn infected leaves immediately. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage.


Instruction: My tomato plants are rotting from the bottom up, even the fruits. What is this problem and how can I fix it?

Response: That sounds like blight disease. Remove all infected parts and burn them. Spray with fungicide every week during rain. Also, stop watering from above - water only at the base of plants. And next season, rotate with maize or cowpea to break the disease cycle.


Instruction: I see dark spots with rings on my tomato leaves, starting from the bottom. What is this and how do I treat it?

Response: That's early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads up. Remove and burn infected leaves. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Also, space your plants well for good airflow and water only at the base of plants.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are getting wet spots that turn brown fast, especially in wet weather. What is this and how do I stop it?

Response: That's late blight, a very dangerous disease. It spreads fast in wet conditions. Remove and burn infected leaves immediately. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage.


Instruction: I plant tomato every year in the same plot, but this season my plants are dying fast. What could be the problem?

Response: The thing is, planting tomato in the same plot year after year spreads disease. You need to rotate crops - try maize or cowpea next season. Also, remove and burn any infected parts you see now, and spray with fungicide every week during rain.


Instruction: My tomato plants are falling over and the leaves are rotting. What is happening and how do I fix it?

Response: That sounds like blight disease. Remove all infected parts and burn them. Spray with fungicide every week during rain. Also, stake your plants to keep them off the ground and water only at the base of plants.


Instruction: I see brown spots with rings on my tomato leaves, starting from the bottom. What is this and how do I treat it?

Response: That's early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads up. Remove and burn infected leaves. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Also, space your plants well for good airflow and water only at the base of plants.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are getting wet spots that turn brown fast, especially in wet weather. What is this and how do I stop it?

Response: That's late blight, a very dangerous disease. It spreads fast in wet conditions. Remove and burn infected leaves immediately. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage.


Instruction: I plant tomato every year in the same plot, but this season my plants are dying fast. What could be the problem?

Response: The thing is, planting tomato in the same plot year after year spreads disease. You need to rotate crops - try maize or cowpea next season. Also, remove and burn any infected parts you see now, and spray with fungicide every week during rain.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are turning yellow and green in patches, with some curling. What is wrong?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, it's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First thing first, check your farm for plants with these signs and remove them immediately to stop the virus spreading further. Use disease-free stems next time you plant.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cassava leaves to look like dem don mix green and yellow paint?

Response: Ah, that's cassava mosaic disease. Whiteflies spread this virus. My advice? Check your farm now, pull out any plants with these signs, and burn them far from your farm. No need to panic, but act fast to save the rest.


Instruction: I see some cassava plants with leaves that look twisted and have yellow and green patches. Is this normal?

Response: No, that's not normal. It's cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus from whiteflies. You must remove and destroy those plants right away to stop the virus spreading. Always use healthy stems when planting next time.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have strange patterns and some are curling up. What could be the problem?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, it's very contagious. Remove and destroy the affected plants immediately to protect the rest. Next time, plant disease-free stems only.


Instruction: Some of my cassava plants have leaves with yellow and green patches and are not growing well. What is happening?

Response: That's cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus from whiteflies. You must remove and destroy those plants right away to stop the virus spreading. Always use healthy stems when planting next time. Check your farm now and act fast.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are turning yellow and green in patches and some are curling. What is wrong with my plants?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, it's very contagious. Remove and destroy the affected plants immediately to protect the rest. Next time, plant disease-free stems only.


Instruction: Wetin cause my cassava leaves to look like dem don mix green and yellow paint?

Response: Ah, that's cassava mosaic disease. Whiteflies spread this virus. My advice? Check your farm now, pull out any plants with these signs, and burn them far from your farm. No need to panic, but act fast to save the rest.


Instruction: Some of my cassava plants have leaves that look twisted and have yellow and green patches. Is this normal?

Response: No, that's not normal. It's cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus from whiteflies. You must remove and destroy those plants right away to stop the virus spreading. Always use healthy stems when planting next time.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have strange patterns and some are curling up. What could be the problem?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, it's very contagious. Remove and destroy the affected plants immediately to protect the rest. Next time, plant disease-free stems only.


Instruction: Some of my cassava plants have leaves with yellow and green patches and are not growing well. What is happening?

Response: That's cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus from whiteflies. You must remove and destroy those plants right away to stop the virus spreading. Always use healthy stems when planting next time. Check your farm now and act fast.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are short, stiff, and crowded at the top. What is happening to my plant?

Response: My friend, this is banana bunchy top virus. The plant is infected and will never produce a bunch. First thing first: chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do this today before the virus spreads.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal. These streaks mean your plant has bunchy top virus. There is no cure, so you must act fast. Cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat immediately. Do not waste time or money trying to treat it.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and brown. What is the problem?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. The plant is infected and will die. Do not wait — chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat right away. This will stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: I just saw some plantain plants with bunchy top. What should I do now?

Response: You must act fast. Chop down the infected plants and inject the stems with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this today and check the rest of your farm for more symptoms. Do not move any suckers from this farm.


Instruction: My plantain farm has bunchy top. Can I still save the other plants?

Response: Yes, but you must act quickly. Remove all infected plants and inject the stems with kerosene or paraquat. Do this today and check all your plants for symptoms. Do not move any suckers from this farm.


Instruction: I just bought new suckers. How can I make sure they don’t have bunchy top?

Response: Only plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Never take suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus hides inside the sucker with no visible signs. Buy from a trusted source.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are crowded at the top. Is this bunchy top?

Response: Yes, this is bunchy top virus. The plant is infected and will die. Do not wait — chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat right away. This will stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaf turn brown?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. The plant is infected and will die. Do not waste time — chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat immediately. This will stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: I see dark green dots on my plantain leaves. Is this bunchy top?

Response: Yes, this is bunchy top virus. The plant is infected and will die. Do not wait — chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat right away. This will stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain farm has bunchy top. How can I prevent it from spreading?

Response: First, remove all infected plants and inject the stems with kerosene or paraquat. Do this today. Then, check all your plants for symptoms. Do not move any suckers from this farm. Buy certified clean suckers for your next planting.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. The fungus causes dark brown irregular spots on leaves. First thing first, remove all infected leaves from the tree and the ground. Then, spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How I go know when to harvest mango?

Response: Harvest when the mango tip changes colour slightly. This is the sign for most varieties. Handle fruits carefully — don't drop them as wounds let the anthracnose fungus in. Store in a cool dry place immediately after harvest.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. What is happening?

Response: This is blossom blight from mango anthracnose. The fungus attacks flowers and kills them before fruit sets. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation.


Instruction: Why my mangoes spoil quickly after harvest?

Response: The thing is, anthracnose fungus was already inside the fruit. It causes dark sunken lesions that expand rapidly as the fruit ripens. Harvest carefully, don't drop fruits, and store in a cool dry place immediately. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage to prevent this.


Instruction: Can I use overhead irrigation for my mango trees?

Response: No, my friend. Overhead irrigation keeps foliage wet for too long, which encourages anthracnose. Use drip irrigation instead. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly as they carry fungal spores.


Instruction: Mango tree don spoil my fruits. Wetin I go do?

Response: This could be anthracnose. The fungus causes dark spots that expand after harvest. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle fruits carefully and store in a cool dry place immediately after harvest.


Instruction: When should I prune my mango tree?

Response: Prune after every harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. This helps prevent anthracnose. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly as they carry fungal spores.


Instruction: Why my mangoes turn black within 2 days of harvest?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit and expands rapidly as the fruit ripens. Harvest carefully, don't drop fruits, and store in a cool dry place immediately. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage to prevent this.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango diseases?

Response: Prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango fruits have dark sunken spots. What is this?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus causes dark sunken lesions that expand rapidly after harvest. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle fruits carefully and store in a cool dry place immediately after harvest.


Instruction: Greet the farmer and explain what FarmBot can help with

Response: Hello my friend! FarmBot is here to help you grow better mangoes. Ask me about diseases, pests or how to care for your trees.


Instruction: My mango leaves have dark brown spots. What is this?

Response: Ah, this could be mango anthracnose. It's a fungus that causes dark brown spots on leaves. The thing is, it can also attack flowers and fruits. First thing first, you need to act fast to stop it spreading.


Instruction: How I go prevent mango anthracnose for my trees?

Response: My friend, prevention is better than cure. Prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. This stops the fungus from spreading. Start doing this today.


Instruction: What is causing my mango flowers to die before fruiting?

Response: This is likely blossom blight from anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers and kills them before fruit sets. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My harvested mangoes turn black after 2 days. Why?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Handle your fruits with care — wounds let the fungus enter. Harvest carefully, don't drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: How can I stop my mango fruits from getting anthracnose?

Response: Prevention is key. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, harvest at the right time — a slight colour change at the tip is the sign for most varieties.


Instruction: Mango anthracnose don spoil my fruits. Wetin I go do?

Response: No need to panic. First, remove all infected fruits and fallen leaves. Then spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Is there anything I can do to prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: Yes, my friend! Prune your trees after harvest to improve air circulation. Also, avoid overhead irrigation which keeps foliage wet for too long. Start pruning today.


Instruction: What is the best way to harvest mangoes to prevent anthracnose?

Response: Handle your fruits with extreme care. Do not drop them as wounds let the fungus enter. Harvest at correct maturity — a slight colour change at the tip is the sign for most varieties. Store in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: How often should I spray for mango anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage, then repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Start your spraying schedule this week.


Instruction: How do I tell the difference between fall armyworm damage and other maize pests?

Response: My friend, fall armyworm damage looks like ragged holes in leaves, like someone took a bite out of a windowpane. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Other pests might leave different patterns. Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out to feed. Scout 10-20 plants per field to be sure.


Instruction: Why is fall armyworm worse in some fields than others?

Response: The thing is, fall armyworm spreads fast in warm weather. One moth can lay up to 1000 eggs! Fields with lots of maize plants together get hit harder. That's why intercropping with beans or soybean helps a lot. Another thing, planting at the wrong time can expose your maize to peak moth migration. Check your planting calendar and space your maize properly next season.


Instruction: How is fall armyworm different from maize weevils?

Response: Fall armyworm is a caterpillar that eats leaves and hides in the whorl. Maize weevils attack stored maize, making holes in the cobs. The big difference is where you see them — fall armyworm is in the field, weevils are in storage. To stop weevils, harvest your maize promptly when dry and store it well.


Instruction: My maize don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: If your maize leaves have ragged holes and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, it's likely fall armyworm. These caterpillars hide deep inside and feed at night. Check early morning or evening when they come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to scratch and kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: What is the difference between neem spray and chemical sprays for fall armyworm?

Response: Neem spray works well on young caterpillars, especially in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos are stronger but must be used carefully. Always follow the label dosage. For small infestations, neem is cheaper and safer. Scout your field first to know the extent of the damage.


Instruction: How does intercropping help with fall armyworm?

Response: Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. The thing is, fall armyworm loves big fields of maize. Mixing crops breaks their feeding pattern and makes it harder for them to spread. Try intercropping next season and see the difference.


Instruction: Why should I split my nitrogen fertilizer application?

Response: Splitting nitrogen fertilizer helps your maize grow strong. Apply half at planting and the other half when the maize reaches knee height. This gives the plants a steady supply of nutrients. Don't rush, apply the second half properly to avoid wasting fertilizer.


Instruction: How is fall armyworm different from cutworms?

Response: Fall armyworm caterpillars hide in the whorl and feed at night, leaving ragged holes in leaves. Cutworms cut plants at the base, especially young seedlings. The damage looks different — fall armyworm eats leaves, cutworms cut stems. Check your maize early morning to see the difference.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant maize to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: First thing first, plant at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Space your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, one seed per hole. Intercropping with beans or soybean also helps a lot. These steps will make your maize less attractive to fall armyworm.


Instruction: How can I tell if my maize has fall armyworm or just leaf damage?

Response: Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves, like someone took a bite out of a windowpane. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That's the caterpillar's droppings. Other leaf damage might look different. Check early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out to feed.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small, bushy, and have yellow mottled leaves. What is wrong?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. The thing is, there's no cure once plants get it. First thing first, pull out and burn these plants immediately to stop the disease spreading. Next week, check all plants carefully and remove any others showing these signs.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut leaves turn yellow and bunch up like dis?

Response: Ah, this could be groundnut rosette disease. That virus makes plants stay small with yellow mottled leaves. The thing is, it's spread by tiny aphids. You must remove and burn infected plants right away. Also, check your farm for aphids and treat with insecticide if you see them.


Instruction: What causes groundnut plants to stay small and bushy with mottled leaves?

Response: That's groundnut rosette disease, my friend. It's a virus spread by aphids. The bad news is, there's no cure. The good news is, you can stop it spreading. Remove and burn any infected plants immediately. Also, check your farm for aphids and treat with insecticide if you see them.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing tall. Instead, they are bushy with yellow leaves. What could be the problem?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The thing is, once plants get it, they won't recover. You must remove and burn infected plants right away. Also, check your farm for aphids and treat with insecticide if you see them.


Instruction: What makes groundnut plants have bunched up yellow leaves and stay small?

Response: That's groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. The thing is, there's no cure. You must remove and burn infected plants immediately. Also, check your farm for aphids and treat with insecticide if you see them.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut has rosette disease?

Response: Look for plants that stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. That's groundnut rosette disease. The thing is, once plants get it, they won't recover. You must remove and burn infected plants right away. Also, check your farm for aphids and treat with insecticide if you see them.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and the plants are not growing. What is happening?

Response: This could be groundnut rosette disease. It's a virus that makes plants stay small with yellow leaves. The thing is, there's no cure. You must remove and burn infected plants immediately. Also, check your farm for aphids and treat with insecticide if you see them.


Instruction: What does groundnut rosette disease look like?

Response: Groundnut rosette disease makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. The thing is, once plants get it, they won't recover. You must remove and burn infected plants right away. Also, check your farm for aphids and treat with insecticide if you see them.


Instruction: How can I identify groundnut rosette disease?

Response: Look for plants that stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. That's groundnut rosette disease. The thing is, once plants get it, they won't recover. You must remove and burn infected plants immediately. Also, check your farm for aphids and treat with insecticide if you see them.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing well. The leaves are yellow and bunched up. What is wrong?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. The thing is, there's no cure. You must remove and burn infected plants right away. Also, check your farm for aphids and treat with insecticide if you see them.


Instruction: My friend, I just notice my cassava leaf don turn yellow with green patches. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, my friend, that sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The whitefly insect spreads this virus. First thing first, check the whole farm — if you see more infected plants, remove and burn them immediately. This will stop the virus from spreading. Also, use neem spray or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant disease-resistant varieties like TME 419.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava this season. When is the best time?

Response: The best time to plant cassava is at the start of the rainy season. This way, the young plants get enough water to grow strong. Make sure to use healthy stems from disease-free plants. Also, space them 1 metre apart for good growth and easy weeding.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling up. Is this normal?

Response: No, my friend, curling leaves are not normal. This is another sign of cassava mosaic disease. The virus causes the leaves to curl and become distorted. You must remove and destroy these plants right away. Do not compost them — burn them to stop the virus from spreading. Also, check nearby plants for the same symptoms.


Instruction: I heard cassava can grow in poor soil. Is this true?

Response: Yes, cassava can grow in poor soil, but it will do better with some potassium fertilizer. The thing is, cassava needs good drainage, so mound the soil before planting. This helps the tubers grow bigger and healthier. Also, make sure to plant disease-resistant varieties.


Instruction: How can I stop whiteflies from attacking my cassava?

Response: Whiteflies spread the cassava mosaic virus, so you must control them. Use neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm. These traps catch the whiteflies before they spread the disease. Also, always plant healthy stems and remove any infected plants immediately.


Instruction: My cassava plants are small and the leaves are not healthy. What is the problem?

Response: Small plants with unhealthy leaves could be due to cassava mosaic disease. Check for yellow and green mosaic patterns or leaf curling. If you see these signs, remove and burn the infected plants right away. Also, make sure to plant disease-resistant varieties next time. Always use healthy stems from a disease-free farm.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava but I don't know the spacing. How far apart should I plant?

Response: Space your cassava plants 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives them enough room to grow well and makes weeding easier. Also, mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Make sure to use healthy stems and plant at the start of the rainy season.


Instruction: My cassava farm has some plants with yellow and green patches on the leaves. What should I do?

Response: Ah, those are signs of cassava mosaic disease. The whitefly spreads this virus. First, remove and burn the infected plants immediately. Do not compost them. Also, use neem spray or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant disease-resistant varieties like TME 419.


Instruction: I planted cassava last season but the tubers were small. Why?

Response: Small tubers can be caused by poor drainage or planting stems from a farm that had mosaic disease. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage. Also, always use healthy stems from a disease-free farm. Planting disease-resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572 can also help.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: Look for yellow and green mosaic patterns on the leaves, as well as curling and distortion. Severely affected plants will have small, deformed tubers. If you see these signs, remove and burn the plants immediately. Also, control whiteflies with neem spray or yellow sticky traps. Always plant disease-resistant varieties.


Instruction: My friend, how can I stop this black pod disease from killing my cocoa trees?

Response: First thing first, you must remove any diseased pods you see today. Cut them off and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This helps dry out the wet spots where the disease likes to grow.


Instruction: Wetin I go do to prevent black pod disease for my cocoa farm?

Response: You must keep your farm clean, my friend. Remove any diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood right away. Prune your trees regularly to allow light and air into the canopy. This will reduce the humidity that the disease loves.


Instruction: What can I do to protect my cocoa pods from black pod disease?

Response: The thing is, black pod disease spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. To protect your pods, harvest them every two weeks. Don't let them overstay on the tree. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity inside the farm.


Instruction: How can I prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm during the rainy season?

Response: During the rainy season, you should apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, make sure to prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. This will help prevent the disease from spreading.


Instruction: What are the best practices to prevent black pod disease in cocoa farming?

Response: The best practices are to prune your trees after each harvest to allow light and air into the canopy. Also, mulch the base of your trees with dead leaves to retain moisture and improve soil. Remove diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood in one go. This is called sanitation harvesting.


Instruction: How do I stop the spread of black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: To stop the spread, you must remove any infected pods immediately. Cut them off and bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce the humidity that the disease thrives in.


Instruction: What should I do to keep black pod disease away from my cocoa trees?

Response: First, make sure to harvest your pods every two weeks. Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection. Also, prune your trees regularly to let more light and air in. This will help dry out the wet spots where the disease likes to grow.


Instruction: How can I protect my cocoa pods from black pod disease during the rainy season?

Response: During the rainy season, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. This will help prevent the disease from spreading.


Instruction: What steps can I take to prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: First, remove any diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood right away. This is called sanitation harvesting. Also, prune your trees regularly to allow light and air into the canopy. Mulch the base of your trees with dead leaves to retain moisture and improve soil.


Instruction: How can I ensure my cocoa farm does not get black pod disease?

Response: To ensure your farm stays healthy, prune your trees after each harvest to allow light and air into the canopy. Also, mulch the base of your trees with dead leaves to retain moisture and improve soil. Remove any diseased pods immediately and bury them deeply or burn them.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and look mottled. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. The thing is, once a plant has it, it cannot be cured. You must remove the infected plants immediately to save the rest of your crop. Check your farm for small green aphids and spray with insecticide if you see them.


Instruction: What should I do to prevent groundnut rosette disease?

Response: First thing first, plant early at the start of rains. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control aphids. Also, weed your farm well because weeds host aphids. This will help protect your groundnut plants.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and bushy. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal. It could be groundnut rosette disease. The plants become stunted and bushy with yellow leaves. There is no cure, so remove the infected plants quickly. Check for aphids and control them to protect your healthy plants.


Instruction: How should I space my groundnut plants?

Response: Space your groundnut plants at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows. This helps the plants grow well and close the canopy to block weeds. Good spacing is important for a healthy crop.


Instruction: My groundnut pods are wet. What should I do?

Response: Harvest your groundnut pods before heavy rains to avoid aflatoxin contamination. Dry the pods properly before storage. Moisture above 9 percent is dangerous. Spread them in the sun or use a dryer if you have one.


Instruction: What type of soil is best for groundnut?

Response: Groundnut grows best in well-drained sandy loam soil. Waterlogged soil causes pod rot. If your soil is heavy, consider planting on ridges or mounds to improve drainage.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are very green and lush, but I see few pods. Why?

Response: Too much nitrogen in the soil causes too many leaves and few pods. Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen, so do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer. Focus on phosphorus and potassium instead for better pod development.


Instruction: How I go treat groundnut rosette disease?

Response: I tell you, there is no treatment for groundnut rosette disease once a plant is infected. You must remove the infected plants immediately. To prevent it, plant early, use resistant varieties, and control aphids with insecticide seed treatment. Also, weed your farm well.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut plant to stop growing and look bushy?

Response: This could be groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants become stunted and bushy with yellow leaves. There is no cure, so remove the infected plants quickly. Check for aphids and control them to protect your healthy plants.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots. What is this?

Response: Ah, those are signs of mango anthracnose. It's a fungus that loves wet weather. The thing is, it can spread to your flowers and fruits if you don't act now. This week, check your trees for any dead wood and remove it to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How I go prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: My friend, prevention is better than cure. First, prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Also, always remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the fungus. Avoid overhead irrigation, it keeps leaves wet for too long. This week, start checking your trees for any dead branches and remove them.


Instruction: What can I do to stop mango anthracnose from spreading?

Response: To stop this fungus, you need to keep your trees dry and healthy. Prune your trees to improve air circulation and remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation — it keeps leaves wet for too long. This week, start pruning your trees and remove any dead wood.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. Why?

Response: That is mango anthracnose causing blossom blight. The fungus attacks the flowers and kills them before fruits can set. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Follow the label instructions carefully. This week, check your trees for any signs of the disease and start spraying if needed.


Instruction: How I go know when to harvest my mangoes?

Response: Harvest when you see a slight colour change at the tip. That's the sign for most varieties. But be careful, handle fruits gently — any wounds can let the anthracnose fungus in. This week, start checking your fruits for that colour change.


Instruction: My harvested mangoes turn black after 2 days. Why?

Response: Ah, that is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit but you couldn't see it. It only shows after harvest as the fruit ripens. To prevent this, handle fruits carefully — no dropping or bruising. This week, start harvesting gently and store fruits in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: What I go do to prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: My friend, the best thing is to keep your trees dry and healthy. Prune them after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly — they carry the fungus. Avoid overhead irrigation. This week, start pruning your trees and remove any dead wood.


Instruction: How I go stop mango anthracnose from killing my flowers?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your trees to improve air circulation. This week, start checking your trees for any signs of the disease and start spraying if needed.


Instruction: My mango fruits have dark sunken spots. What is this?

Response: That is mango anthracnose. The fungus causes these spots and they expand rapidly after harvest. To prevent this, handle fruits carefully — no dropping or bruising. This week, start harvesting gently and store fruits in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant cassava?

Response: My friend, plant your cassava at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants the best chance to establish well. First thing first, check your local weather patterns and prepare your farm.


Instruction: How long does it take for cassava to mature?

Response: Cassava can be ready to harvest between 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you want to use it for. The thing is, some varieties mature faster for food, while others need more time for better tuber size. Check your variety's details and plan accordingly.


Instruction: When should I start weeding my cassava farm?

Response: Weed your cassava regularly for the first 3 months. After that, the plants will grow big enough to shade out most weeds. Start weeding early to give your cassava a strong start.


Instruction: My cassava don get mosaic, when I go remove am?

Response: Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately, my friend. No need to panic, but act fast to stop the whiteflies from spreading the virus to other plants. Burn the infected plants or bury them deep to kill the virus.


Instruction: When can I stop weeding my cassava?

Response: You can reduce weeding after the first 3 months. By then, your cassava plants should be big enough to shade out most weeds. Keep an eye on it, though, and weed any stubborn weeds that pop up.


Instruction: When should I apply fertilizer to my cassava?

Response: Cassava can grow in poor soils, but it responds well to potassium fertilizer. Apply it at planting time to give your plants a good start. Follow the label instructions carefully for the best results.


Instruction: How often should I check my cassava for mosaic disease?

Response: Check your cassava plants regularly, especially during the growing season. Look for yellow and green mosaic patterns, curling, and distortion on the leaves. If you see any signs, remove and destroy the infected plants immediately.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest cassava?

Response: Harvest your cassava between 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you need it for. Some varieties are ready earlier for food, while others need more time for better tuber size. Plan your harvest accordingly.


Instruction: When should I plant resistant cassava varieties?

Response: Plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572 at the start of the rainy season. This gives them the best chance to establish well and resist mosaic disease. Check your local weather patterns and prepare your farm.


Instruction: When can I stop worrying about whiteflies on my cassava?

Response: Whiteflies can spread cassava mosaic disease anytime, so always be vigilant. Use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps around your farm to control them. Keep checking your plants regularly to catch any signs of disease early.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'My cowpea leaves don curl up like dry banana leaf. I think it be aphid. How I go know?'

Response: My friend, if you see tiny black or brown insects clustering on your cowpea shoots and leaves, that's aphids. The thing is, they suck plant sap and cause leaves to curl and turn yellow. Check your plants closely, especially under the leaves. If you find them, act fast before they spread. This week, mix neem oil with soap and spray on affected plants.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'I hear say cowpea no good to plant near other cowpea farm. Why?'

Response: You hear right, my friend. Cowpea aphids spread easily from one farm to another, especially if the wind is blowing from an infested farm to yours. So, don't plant your cowpea downwind or next to a farm already attacked by aphids. If you must plant near another farm, make sure it's not cowpea. This week, check the farms around you and plan your planting accordingly.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'I see small black insects on my cowpea flowers. My neighbor say no worry, say small small no dey matter. You think say I no need worry?'

Response: No, no, no! Even small numbers of aphids are dangerous. They spread viruses quickly and can ruin your crop. Don't wait until they multiply. This week, remove and destroy the heavily infested parts of your plants. Then, spray neem oil mixed with soap to control the rest. Don't wait, act now!


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'I plant my cowpea late last year. The thing just dey suffer, no grow well. Why?'

Response: Planting late is a big mistake with cowpea, my friend. Aphids are worst during the dry season, so planting early helps your crop escape the peak of their attack. This year, plant your cowpea early. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Start preparing your land this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'I see small black insects on my cowpea leaves. I hear say ladybird beetles like to eat them. How I go protect the ladybird?'

Response: Good question! Ladybird beetles are your friends because they eat aphids. To protect them, avoid using broad-spectrum insecticides. Instead, use neem oil spray or garlic spray to control aphids. These won't harm the ladybirds. This week, start using these natural methods if you haven't already.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'I see sticky stuff on my cowpea leaves. What be this?'

Response: That sticky stuff is called honeydew, and it's a sign that aphids are attacking your plants. Aphids produce this sticky liquid, and it encourages black sooty mould to grow on your leaves. This mould blocks sunlight, which is bad for your plants. This week, remove and destroy heavily infested parts of your plants and spray neem oil mixed with soap to control the aphids.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'I hear say cowpea no good to plant alone. Why?'

Response: You hear right, my friend. Planting cowpea alone makes it easier for aphids to attack and spread. Intercropping with maize at a 4:1 ratio helps reduce aphid pressure. This week, plan your farm layout to include maize with your cowpea. It's not too late to adjust your planting plan.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'I see small black insects on my cowpea pods. I no want use chemical. Wetin I go do?'

Response: No need to panic, my friend. You can control aphids without chemicals. Mix neem oil with soap and spray it on the affected plants. You can also make garlic spray by blending garlic with water and spraying it on the plants. This week, prepare your neem oil or garlic spray and start treating your plants.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'I see small black insects on my cowpea leaves. I hear say imidacloprid be good for this. How I go use am?'

Response: Imidacloprid is a chemical option, but it should be your last resort. First, try natural methods like neem oil or garlic spray. If the infestation is severe and you must use imidacloprid, follow the label instructions carefully. This week, try the natural methods first and monitor your plants closely.


Instruction: A farmer asks: 'I see small black insects on my cowpea leaves. I no want dem spoil my farm. How I go stop dem?'

Response: First thing first, remove and destroy the heavily infested parts of your plants to stop the aphids from spreading. Then, spray neem oil mixed with soap on the rest of the plants. This will help control the aphids. This week, start removing the infested parts and prepare your neem oil spray. Don't wait, act now!


Instruction: My friend, my cassava leaves don turn yellow-green like mosaic. How I go know if na mosaic disease?

Response: My friend, if your cassava leaves have yellow and green patches, curling, or look twisted, it is likely mosaic disease. This virus spreads by whiteflies. First thing first: check all your plants. If you see these signs, remove and destroy the infected plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading. Use disease-free stems next time you plant.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cassava in my farm?

Response: The best time to plant cassava is at the start of the rainy season. This way, the young plants get enough water to grow strong. Make sure to space them 1 metre apart for good growth and easy weeding. Also, mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size.