Instruction: My tomato leaves have wet brown patches turning grey. Is this blight?

Response: Yes, this is late blight. It spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn all bad leaves immediately. Then spray with copper fungicide every week during rain. Also, plant tomatoes in a different spot next season.


Instruction: I see brown spots with rings on my tomato leaves. How I go stop this?

Response: This is early blight. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected leaves today. Then spray with mancozeb fungicide every week during rain. Also, plant tomatoes in a different spot next season.


Instruction: My tomato plants are dying fast with brown spots. What is happening?

Response: This could be blight. It spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn all bad leaves immediately. Then spray with chlorothalonil fungicide every 7 days. Also, water at the base only to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: Help! My tomato leaves are turning brown and dying. Wetin I do?

Response: This could be blight. Remove and burn all bad leaves today. Then spray with copper fungicide every week during rain. Also, water at the base only to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: My tomato plants have brown spots and are dying fast. How I go fix this?

Response: This is likely blight. It spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn all bad leaves immediately. Then spray with mancozeb fungicide every 7 days. Also, plant tomatoes in a different spot next season.


Instruction: My friend, I see my cassava leaves with yellow and green patches and curling. What I no go do?

Response: My friend, don't panic but don't ignore it either. The thing is, don't wait to replant stems from this farm next season. The virus stays in the stems. First thing first, uproot and burn all infected plants today to stop the whiteflies spreading it. Then, look for disease-free stems from a healthy farm to plant next time.


Instruction: I think my cassava has mosaic disease. Should I just leave it and hope for the best?

Response: No, no, no! Don't just leave it. That's how the disease spreads. You must remove and destroy those infected plants immediately. The whiteflies will carry the virus to healthy plants if you don't act fast. Today, cut down the sick plants and burn them far from your farm. Then, check nearby plants for early signs.


Instruction: Can I plant cassava stems from last year's farm that had mosaic disease?

Response: No, don't do that! The virus hides in the stems. Even if the stems look healthy, they can carry the disease. You must get fresh stems from a farm that never had mosaic. Look for resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. This week, visit a reliable source for clean planting material.


Instruction: I see whiteflies on my cassava. Should I ignore them?

Response: No, don't ignore them. Whiteflies spread the mosaic virus. You must control them. Use neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm. Today, mix neem leaves with water and spray on your plants. Also, check your plants daily for any signs of mosaic.


Instruction: Is it okay to plant cassava at the end of the rainy season?

Response: No, don't do that. Cassava needs good rain to establish well. Plant at the start of the rainy season for best results. This week, prepare your land and get ready to plant as soon as the first rains come.


Instruction: Can I plant cassava too close together?

Response: No, don't plant too close. Space them 1 metre by 1 metre. This helps with weeding and gives each plant room to grow. Today, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: Should I stop weeding after the first 3 months?

Response: No, don't stop weeding completely. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, cassava shades out most weeds, but check occasionally. This week, weed your farm and keep an eye on any new weeds.


Instruction: Can I harvest cassava before 9 months?

Response: No, don't harvest too early. Most varieties need at least 9 months to grow well. Harvesting too early gives small tubers. Check your variety's recommended harvest time and wait patiently.


Instruction: Do I need to mound the soil before planting cassava?

Response: Yes, you must mound the soil. It improves drainage and tuber size. Don't skip this step. This week, mound your soil before planting.


Instruction: Is cassava strong enough to grow without fertilizer?

Response: Yes, cassava can grow in poor soil, but it does better with potassium fertilizer. Don't skip fertilizer if you can afford it. Today, check your fertilizer supply and plan to apply it soon.


Instruction: User says: My mango leaves have brown spots, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, my friend, those brown spots are likely mango anthracnose, a fungal disease. The thing is, it spreads in wet weather. First thing first, start by removing all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. This will help stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: User says: How can I stop this anthracnose from killing my mango flowers?

Response: To protect your flowers, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your trees to improve air circulation. This helps keep the fungus away.


Instruction: User says: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but turn black after harvest. Why?

Response: This is anthracnose, my friend. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Handle fruits carefully during harvest — any bruises or wounds let the fungus in. Harvest gently, do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: User asks: What should I do to prevent anthracnose in my mango orchard?

Response: Prevention is key, my friend. Prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Avoid overhead irrigation — it keeps leaves wet for too long. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. They carry fungal spores.


Instruction: User asks: When is the best time to prune my mango trees to prevent disease?

Response: Prune your mango trees right after harvest, my friend. This removes dead wood and improves air circulation, which helps prevent anthracnose. Also, remove any fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry fungal spores.


Instruction: User asks: How can I tell when my mangoes are ready to harvest to avoid disease?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip of the fruit, my friend. That is the sign of maturity for most varieties. Harvest carefully, do not drop the fruits, and store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: User asks: Is there any chemical I can use to prevent anthracnose in my mango trees?

Response: Yes, my friend. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: User asks: My mango trees are always wet from overhead irrigation. Is this bad?

Response: Yes, my friend, it is bad. Overhead irrigation keeps the foliage wet for too long, which encourages anthracnose. Avoid it if you can. Instead, water at the base of the trees. Also, prune your trees to improve air circulation.


Instruction: User asks: What can I do today to protect my mango trees from anthracnose?

Response: Start by removing all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground, my friend. They carry fungal spores. Also, check your trees for any dead wood and prune it out. This improves air circulation and helps prevent the disease.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to treat rice blast disease cheaply

Response: For treating blast disease, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf spots. Follow the label instructions carefully. To prevent it, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or FARO 57. Also, do not overcrowd seedlings when transplanting — give them space to breathe.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to prevent neck blast disease

Response: Neck blast is the worst kind — it makes the rice stalk fall over. To prevent it, spray fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Plant resistant varieties and avoid too much nitrogen fertilizer. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to manage rice blast without expensive chemicals

Response: You can reduce blast disease by planting resistant varieties like NERICA series. Maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. These steps will help you manage the disease without expensive chemicals.


Instruction: Farmer asks what causes rice blast disease to spread quickly

Response: Rice blast spreads fast when nights are cool and humid. Too much nitrogen fertilizer makes it worse. The fungus also survives in crop residues, so burning rice straw after harvest helps. To slow it down, maintain proper water levels and avoid overcrowding seedlings.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to choose the best rice variety for blast resistance

Response: Look for varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or NERICA series. These are known to resist blast disease. Ask your local agricultural extension officer for advice on the best varieties for your area. Planting resistant varieties is the first step to winning against blast disease.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to treat neck blast disease if it is already in the field

Response: If neck blast is already in your field, spray fungicide immediately. Follow the label instructions carefully. For next season, spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges to prevent it. Also, plant resistant varieties and avoid too much nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to manage rice blast disease with limited resources

Response: First, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or FARO 57. Maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and avoid overcrowding seedlings. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. These steps will help you manage blast disease without spending much.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to prevent rice blast disease from coming back next season

Response: To prevent rice blast next season, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Plant resistant varieties and maintain proper water levels in your paddy field. Avoid overcrowding seedlings and do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. These steps will help keep blast disease away.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to tell the difference between leaf blast and neck blast

Response: Leaf blast has diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions with a grey or white centre and brown or reddish edges. Neck blast attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to fall over. If you see these signs, act fast to treat and prevent further spread.


Instruction: When should I start staking my tomato plants?

Response: My friend, stake your tomato plants when they reach about 30 cm tall. This keeps the fruits and leaves off the ground and helps prevent diseases. Do this today if your plants are already that height.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my tomatoes?

Response: You should harvest your tomatoes every 2 to 3 days, my friend. Don't wait too long — leaving ripe fruits on the plant can attract pests and diseases. Start checking your plants daily once they begin to ripen.


Instruction: When is the best time to apply calcium nitrate to my tomato plants?

Response: Apply calcium nitrate at first flower. This gives your plants the nutrients they need to produce strong, healthy fruits. Check your plants now and apply if you see the first flowers.


Instruction: Wetin be the best time to spray fungicide for blight prevention?

Response: Spray fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season to prevent blight. The thing is, wet weather spreads blight fast, so don't wait until you see signs. Start spraying now if it's the rainy season.


Instruction: When should I rotate my tomato plot?

Response: Never plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. Rotate with maize or cowpea. Plan your next planting now and choose a different plot or field for your tomatoes.


Instruction: How often should I water my tomato plants to prevent blight?

Response: Water your tomato plants at the base every 2 to 3 days, depending on the weather. Keep the foliage dry to prevent blight. Check your plants now and adjust your watering schedule if needed.


Instruction: When should I remove and destroy infected leaves?

Response: Remove and destroy infected leaves at the first sign of blight. Bag them and burn them — don't compost. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves you find.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant tomatoes on raised beds?

Response: Plant tomatoes on raised beds at the start of the season. This improves drainage and reduces soil splash onto lower leaves. If you're planning to plant soon, prepare your raised beds now.


Instruction: How often should I check my tomato plants for blight?

Response: Check your tomato plants every day during the rainy season for signs of blight. Early detection can save your crop. Make it a habit to inspect your plants daily, especially in wet weather.


Instruction: When should I space my tomato plants for good airflow?

Response: Space your tomato plants at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows when you plant them. Good airflow helps prevent blight. If you're planning to plant soon, mark your rows with these spacings.


Instruction: My friend, how I go prevent tomato blight for my farm dis year?

Response: First thing first, make sure you don't wet the leaves when you water. Water only at the base of the plants. Also, plant your tomatoes on raised beds so water can drain well. And remember to spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What should I do if I see dark brown spots with rings on my tomato leaves?

Response: That sounds like early blight. My friend, you must act fast. Remove the infected leaves immediately, put them in a bag, and burn them. Do not compost them. Then spray with a fungicide like chlorothalonil. And make sure to rotate your crops next season - don't plant tomatoes in the same spot again.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomatoes have late blight?

Response: Late blight causes greyish-green patches that turn brown quickly. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet weather. If you see these signs, remove and destroy the infected plants right away. Bag them and burn, don't compost. Then treat the rest with a copper-based fungicide every week until the rain stops.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: It could be blight. Check the leaves for dark spots or water-soaked patches. If you see them, that's the cause. Remove the bad leaves and spray with fungicide. Also, make sure your plants have good airflow by spacing them properly and staking them up. Do this today before it spreads more.


Instruction: What's the best way to space tomato plants to prevent disease?

Response: Space your tomato plants at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This gives them good airflow, which helps prevent disease. Also, stake or cage them at 30 cm height to keep the fruits and leaves off the ground. Do this when you plant them this week.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my tomatoes to keep them healthy?

Response: Harvest every 2 to 3 days. Leaving ripe fruits on the plant too long can attract pests and diseases. So, pick them regularly and this will keep your plants healthier. Start doing this today if you haven't already.


Instruction: Can I plant tomatoes in the same plot next season after blight?

Response: No, my friend, don't do that. After blight, you must rotate your crops. Plant maize or cowpea next season in that plot. This helps break the disease cycle. Plan your crop rotation now before the next planting season.


Instruction: What fertilizer should I use for my tomato plants?

Response: Use a balanced NPK fertilizer at planting. Then, when the flowers appear, top-dress with calcium nitrate. This will give your plants the nutrients they need. Apply the first fertilizer this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: How can I stop water from splashing onto my tomato leaves?

Response: Plant your tomatoes on raised beds or ridges. This helps water drain away and reduces splashing onto the leaves. Also, avoid overhead watering - always water at the base of the plants. Prepare your beds this week if you haven't.


Instruction: What should I do with leaves that have blight spots?

Response: Remove them immediately and put them in a bag. Burn the leaves - do not compost them. This stops the disease from spreading. Do this today if you see any infected leaves on your plants.


Instruction: When should I plant my groundnut to avoid rosette disease?

Response: My friend, plant your groundnut early at the very start of rains. This helps escape the peak aphid populations that come later in the season. Check your calendar now and mark the best planting date.


Instruction: Na when I go plant groundnut so dat rosette no go kill am?

Response: First thing first, you must plant your groundnut at the very start of the rains. This way, you avoid the worst aphid attacks that come later. Ask your neighbour when they're planting and join them.


Instruction: Is it better to plant groundnut late in the season to avoid rosette?

Response: No, no, no! Planting late is dangerous. The thing is, rosette spreads more when aphids are many later in the season. Plant early to escape this danger. Prepare your field this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: When should I harvest my groundnut to avoid aflatoxin?

Response: Harvest before the heavy rains come. Wet pods easily get aflatoxin which is very dangerous. Check the weather forecast and plan your harvest date now.


Instruction: Can I plant groundnut in waterlogged soil?

Response: No, my friend, groundnut hates waterlogged soil. It causes pod rot. Choose well-drained sandy loam soil for your groundnut. Look at your field today and see if it drains well.


Instruction: How often should I weed my groundnut farm?

Response: Weed your groundnut farm very well. Weeds host aphids which spread rosette disease. Weed at least twice before the canopy closes. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds you see.


Instruction: When should I apply nitrogen fertilizer to my groundnut?

Response: Do not apply too much nitrogen to groundnut. It fixes its own nitrogen. Too much nitrogen gives you leaves not pods. Use little or no nitrogen fertilizer. Check your fertilizer bag today and follow the instructions carefully.


Instruction: Na when I go know say my groundnut don get rosette?

Response: If your groundnut stays small, bushy with yellow or mottled leaves, it has rosette. There is no cure, so remove the plant immediately. Check your farm now and remove any such plants.


Instruction: How do I space my groundnut plants to control weeds?

Response: Space your groundnut plants at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows. This helps the canopy close and smother weeds. Measure your spacing with a stick today if you haven't planted yet.


Instruction: When should I dry my groundnut pods before storage?

Response: Dry your groundnut pods properly before storage. Moisture above 9 percent causes aflatoxin. Dry them in the sun for at least two weeks. Check your drying racks this week and ensure they are ready.


Instruction: How do I know if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: My friend, check your leaves first. Dark brown spots that aren't round? That's anthracnose. Flowers turning black and falling off? Also anthracnose. Fruits getting dark sunken spots? Definitely anthracnose. Today, go inspect your tree carefully, especially after rain.


Instruction: My mangoes are fine on the tree but turn black after 2 days. What is this?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose, my friend. The fungus was already inside the fruit. It grows fast when the fruit ripens. First thing first, handle your mangoes with care when harvesting. No dropping them! Today, start pruning your tree to improve air flow.


Instruction: How can I prevent anthracnose in my mango orchard?

Response: The thing is, anthracnose loves wet conditions. Prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Today, start cleaning up fallen leaves and fruits from under your trees.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis black spot for my mango leaf?

Response: That black spot na anthracnose, my brother. The fungus Colletotrichum gloeosporioides cause am. It love wet weather. Today, start by pruning your tree to improve air flow. Also, remove any fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest mangoes to avoid anthracnose?

Response: Harvest when you see a slight colour change at the tip. That's the sign for most varieties. But remember, even if you harvest at the right time, handle fruits with extreme care. No dropping them! Today, inspect your fruits and start harvesting those that are ready.


Instruction: Can I save my mango tree if it has anthracnose?

Response: Yes, you can! First, prune your tree to remove infected parts and improve air circulation. Then, spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Today, start pruning your tree.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Then, repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your sprayer and make sure it's ready for use.


Instruction: My mango flowers are turning black and falling off. What should I do?

Response: That's blossom blight caused by anthracnose. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride immediately and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Today, go to your nearest agro-dealer and get the chemicals you need.


Instruction: Is it safe to eat mangoes with anthracnose?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. The fungus is on the surface. Just cut away the affected parts before eating. But remember, handle fruits with care to avoid spreading the disease. Today, inspect your fruits and remove any with signs of anthracnose.


Instruction: How can I store my mangoes to prevent anthracnose?

Response: Store your mangoes in a cool, dry place immediately after harvest. Handle them with care—no bruises or wounds. The fungus enters through these. Today, prepare a cool, dry place for your harvested mangoes.


Instruction: How is groundnut rosette different from normal plant growth?

Response: My friend, groundnut rosette makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. Healthy plants grow tall and spread out. First thing first, check your plants early and remove any that look stunted and yellow.


Instruction: Why does groundnut rosette cause more damage early in the season?

Response: The thing is, groundnut rosette spreads by aphids which are most common later in the season. If you plant early, your plants grow strong before the aphids arrive. So this week, check your planting calendar and plan to plant at the very start of rains.


Instruction: How can I tell if my groundnut plants have rosette or just need fertilizer?

Response: Rosette plants stay small and have bunched, yellowed leaves. If your plants are just pale green, they might need nitrogen. But groundnuts fix their own nitrogen, so don't overdo it. Check your plants today and compare healthy ones to the yellow ones.


Instruction: My groundnut don dey small and leaf don turn yellow, wetin dey cause am?

Response: This could be groundnut rosette. Infected plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves. There is no cure, so pull out and burn the bad plants now. Next time, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: What's the difference between groundnut rosette and leaf spot diseases?

Response: Rosette makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves all over. Leaf spots are just brown spots on leaves. No need to panic, but check your plants now and remove any that look stunted and yellow.


Instruction: Why should I plant groundnut early to avoid rosette?

Response: Aphids that spread rosette are most common later in the season. If you plant early, your groundnuts grow strong before the aphids arrive. This week, prepare your field and plan to plant at the very start of rains.


Instruction: How can I stop groundnut rosette from spreading in my field?

Response: Once a plant has rosette, it will never recover. Pull it out and burn it immediately. Also, weed your field well — weeds host aphids which spread the disease. Today, walk your field and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: What makes groundnut rosette worse than other groundnut diseases?

Response: Rosette is deadly because it can cause total crop failure if it strikes early. Other diseases may just reduce yields. The best thing is to plant resistant varieties like RG 1 series. Ask your extension officer for local ones too.


Instruction: Why is groundnut rosette more dangerous than aphids themselves?

Response: Aphids just suck plant sap, but they spread the deadly rosette virus. Even a few aphids can cause big problems. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. This week, get the right insecticide from your agro-dealer.


Instruction: How can I grow healthy groundnuts if rosette is so dangerous?

Response: Plant resistant varieties and early in the season. Also, keep your field clean of weeds. Groundnut rosette is serious, but you can protect your crop. Today, check your seed stock and make sure you have resistant varieties.


Instruction: How is plantain bunchy top different from other plantain diseases?

Response: My friend, bunchy top is different because it makes leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. The worst thing is: no bunch will ever grow. Other diseases may not stop the plant from bearing fruit. First thing first: if you see these signs, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus. Check your farm today for any funny-looking plants.


Instruction: What makes plantain bunchy top so dangerous compared to other pests?

Response: The thing is, bunchy top is caused by a virus that has no cure. Once a plant gets it, it's a total loss. Aphids spread the virus from plant to plant, and the virus hides inside suckers without any signs. Other pests may just damage leaves or fruits, but bunchy top kills the whole plant. No need to panic, but be very careful. If you see any funny leaves, chop the plant and treat the stem right away.


Instruction: Why is plantain bunchy top worse than black sigatoka?

Response: Bunchy top is worse because it ruins the whole plant and no bunch will grow. Black sigatoka damages leaves but the plant can still bear fruit. Bunchy top has no cure, so you must remove infected plants immediately. Chop them down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Check your farm this week for any plants with short, stiff leaves.


Instruction: How can I tell if my plantain has bunchy top or just nutrient deficiency?

Response: If your plantain has short, stiff leaves with dark green streaks turning yellow and brown, it's bunchy top. Nutrient deficiency makes leaves yellow but not stiff. Bunchy top is deadly — no cure, so chop the plant and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Look at your plants today to be sure.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause plantain bunchy top compared to other plantain problems?

Response: Bunchy top is caused by a virus spread by aphids. Other problems like weeds or pests just damage leaves or fruits. The virus hides inside the plant and has no cure. If you see funny leaves, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Check your farm this week for any signs.


Instruction: Why is bunchy top more serious than weeds in plantain farming?

Response: Weeds just compete for nutrients, but bunchy top kills the whole plant and has no cure. Weeds you can pull, but bunchy top spreads through aphids and hides inside suckers. If you see short, stiff leaves with streaks, chop the plant and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Look at your plants today to stay safe.


Instruction: How does plantain bunchy top compare to banana weevils in damage?

Response: Banana weevils damage the corm and stems, but bunchy top ruins the whole plant and stops it from bearing fruit. Weevils you can control, but bunchy top has no cure. If you see short, stiff leaves with streaks, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Check your farm this week for any signs.


Instruction: Why is bunchy top worse than nematodes in plantain farming?

Response: Nematodes attack the roots but bunchy top ruins the whole plant and has no cure. Nematodes you can manage, but bunchy top spreads through aphids and hides inside suckers. If you see funny leaves, chop the plant and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Look at your plants today to be sure.


Instruction: How can I compare plantain bunchy top to other plantain diseases?

Response: Bunchy top is different because it makes leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top with dark green streaks. Other diseases may not stop the plant from bearing fruit. The worst thing is: bunchy top has no cure. If you see these signs, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Check your farm today for any funny-looking plants.


Instruction: What makes plantain bunchy top different from other plantain pests?

Response: Other pests may just damage leaves or fruits, but bunchy top ruins the whole plant and has no cure. Aphids spread the virus, and it hides inside suckers without any signs. If you see short, stiff leaves with streaks, chop the plant and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Look at your plants this week to stay safe.


Instruction: My friend, my tomato leaves don get dark brown spots with rings and yellow around them. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is early blight. The thing is, it starts from the bottom leaves first. First thing first, remove and burn those infected leaves now. No need to compost them. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during this rain. Water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves.


Instruction: I notice grey-green patches on my tomato leaves that turn brown fast. It's been raining a lot. What is this?

Response: This is late blight, my friend. It spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn the infected parts immediately. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide every 7 days. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage. Act fast before it spreads!


Instruction: How can I prevent blight in my tomato farm during the rainy season?

Response: To prevent blight, first space your plants well for good airflow. Water only at the base, not on the leaves. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week in rainy season. Also, rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season. Start doing these things now to protect your farm.


Instruction: My tomato plants are getting sick fast. How do I know if it's early or late blight?

Response: Check the leaves carefully. Early blight has dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight shows grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both start from the bottom. Remove and burn infected parts immediately. Spray with the right fungicide every week during rain.


Instruction: I planted tomato last season in the same plot. Now the plants are getting sick fast. What should I do?

Response: Ah, my friend, never plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. This is why your plants are getting sick. Next time, rotate with maize or cowpea. For now, remove and burn the infected parts. Spray with chlorothalonil every week. Also, plant on raised beds to improve drainage.


Instruction: How do I space my tomato plants to prevent disease?

Response: Space your tomato plants at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This gives good airflow to prevent disease. Also, stake or cage them at 30 cm height to keep fruits and leaves off the ground. Start spacing them properly now for a healthy farm.


Instruction: My tomato leaves wetin dey happen? Dem don turn brown and dry fast.

Response: This could be early blight. Remove and burn the infected leaves immediately. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. Do these things now to save your farm.


Instruction: I want to plant tomato next season. How can I prepare my farm to prevent blight?

Response: First, do not plant in the same plot where you planted tomato last season. Rotate with maize or cowpea. Plant on raised beds for good drainage. Space plants well for airflow. Start preparing your plot now for a healthy tomato farm next season.


Instruction: My tomato plants get sick every rainy season. What am I doing wrong?

Response: You might be watering the leaves or not rotating your plot. Water only at the base of the plants. Never plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. Rotate with maize or cowpea. Also, spray with fungicide every week during rain. Start doing these things now.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my tomato to prevent disease?

Response: Harvest your tomato every 2 to 3 days. Leaving ripe fruits on the plant attracts pests and disease. Regular harvesting keeps your farm healthy. Start harvesting regularly now to protect your plants.


Instruction: What are the tiny black bugs all over my cowpea leaves?

Response: My friend, those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap from your plants and make them weak. Check your farm today and remove any badly affected leaves to stop them spreading.


Instruction: Why my cowpea leaves turn yellow and look sick?

Response: That could be aphids. These tiny black or brown insects suck the life from your plants. Look closely at the underside of leaves and stems. If you see them, act fast to save your crop.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea plant for get small small?

Response: Aphids could be the problem. They cluster on young shoots and suck the sap, making your plants stunted. Check your farm and remove any badly affected parts before they spread.


Instruction: I see small black bugs on my cowpea flowers and pods. What is this?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They weaken your plants and spread diseases. Look at your farm today and remove any badly affected parts. Then treat the rest with neem oil spray mixed with soap.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have sticky stuff and black mould. What is happening?

Response: That sticky stuff is called honeydew, made by aphids. The black mould grows because of it. Check your farm and remove badly affected leaves. Then treat with neem oil or garlic spray.


Instruction: What are the tiny brown insects on my cowpea plants?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap and spread diseases. Look at your farm today and remove any badly affected parts. Then treat with neem oil or garlic spray.


Instruction: Why my cowpea plants wilting even with enough water?

Response: Aphids could be the cause. They suck sap and make your plants weak. Check your farm and remove any badly affected parts. Then treat with neem oil or garlic spray.


Instruction: I see small black bugs on my cowpea leaves. What can I do?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They weaken your plants and spread diseases. Check your farm and remove any badly affected parts. Then treat with neem oil or garlic spray.


Instruction: What is the sticky black stuff on my cowpea leaves?

Response: That is honeydew from aphids, and the black stuff is sooty mould. Check your farm and remove badly affected leaves. Then treat with neem oil or garlic spray.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have tiny black bugs and are curling. What is this?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap and make your leaves curl. Check your farm and remove any badly affected parts. Then treat with neem oil or garlic spray.


Instruction: My mango leaves have dark brown spots all over. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is mango anthracnose. It's a fungus that loves wet weather. First thing first, you must spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, clear fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the disease.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango flowers to die before fruiting?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose attacking your flowers. The fungus kills them before fruits can form. Start spraying mancozeb or copper oxychloride now if you haven't. And make sure to prune your tree to improve air flow. Do this after harvest.


Instruction: I harvested my mangoes yesterday and today they are turning black. What happened?

Response: No need to panic, but this is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Handle mangoes with care — bruises let the disease in. Next time, harvest gently and store in a cool dry place right away. Also, spray copper oxychloride during flowering.


Instruction: My mango fruits have sunken black spots. How do I stop this?

Response: This is anthracnose, my friend. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days in rainy weather. Also, prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Do this today if you haven't.


Instruction: What should I do if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: Start spraying mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Clear fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the fungus.


Instruction: How can I prevent my mangoes from rotting after harvest?

Response: Handle your mangoes with extreme care — any bruises let the anthracnose fungus in. Harvest gently and store in a cool dry place immediately. Also, spray copper oxychloride during flowering to protect the fruits. Do this this week if you haven't.


Instruction: My mango tree has dark brown spots on leaves and flowers are dying. What is the solution?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days in rainy weather. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation. Clear fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the fungus.


Instruction: I just noticed black spots on my mango fruits. What do I do now?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit. For next time, spray copper oxychloride at flowering and handle fruits carefully. Harvest gently and store in a cool dry place immediately. Do this this week if you haven't.


Instruction: How do I know when to harvest my mangoes to avoid disease?

Response: Harvest when the tip of the mango starts to change colour. Handle fruits with care — bruises let the anthracnose fungus in. Store in a cool dry place immediately after harvest. Also, spray copper oxychloride during flowering to protect the fruits.


Instruction: My mango tree has anthracnose. What can I do to save my harvest?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Clear fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the fungus. Do this this week if you haven't.


Instruction: My friend, my tomato leaves get dark spots with yellow around them. What I no suppose do?

Response: Ah, my friend, this sound like early blight. The thing is, you must never leave those infected leaves on the plant. First thing first, pick them off and burn them in a bag. Do not compost them! Then, spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rainy season. And make sure to water only at the base of the plants, not on the leaves.


Instruction: What is the worst mistake farmers make with tomato blight?

Response: The worst mistake is waiting too long to act. Many farmers see a few spots and think it will go away. But blight spreads very fast, especially in wet weather. The moment you see spots, remove those leaves immediately and burn them. Do not compost them. Then start spraying with fungicide every week. Also, avoid planting tomato in the same spot year after year. Rotate with maize or cowpea.


Instruction: Why is it bad to water tomato plants from above?

Response: Watering from above keeps the leaves wet, and blight loves wet leaves. The disease spreads very fast in wet conditions. Always water at the base of the plants to keep the foliage dry. This helps prevent blight from starting in the first place. If you already see spots, remove those leaves and start spraying with fungicide.


Instruction: My tomato leaves turn brown and rot fast. How I go stop am?

Response: This sound like late blight, my friend. The thing is, you must act fast. Do not wait! Remove and burn all infected leaves and plant parts right now. Do not compost them. Then spray with fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, make sure your plants have good airflow by spacing them properly. And never plant tomato in the same spot two seasons in a row.


Instruction: What should I never do if I see blight on my tomato plants?

Response: Never ignore it! Many farmers see a few spots and think it will go away, but blight spreads very fast. The moment you see spots, remove those leaves immediately and burn them. Do not compost them. Then start spraying with fungicide every week. Also, avoid watering from above and make sure your plants have good airflow.


Instruction: Why is it bad to plant tomato in the same place every year?

Response: Planting tomato in the same place every year makes blight worse. The disease stays in the soil and attacks the plants again. Always rotate with maize or cowpea. Also, plant on raised beds or ridges to improve drainage and reduce soil splash onto lower leaves. This helps keep your plants healthy.


Instruction: My tomato plants get wet easily and now they have spots. What I suppose do?

Response: Ah, my friend, wet leaves invite blight. First thing first, stop watering from above. Water only at the base of the plants. Then remove and burn all infected leaves. Do not compost them. Start spraying with fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, make sure your plants have good airflow by spacing them properly.


Instruction: What is the biggest no-no when dealing with tomato blight?

Response: The biggest no-no is composting infected leaves. Many farmers think composting is always good, but with blight, it spreads the disease. Always burn infected leaves in a bag. Also, do not wait to act. The moment you see spots, remove those leaves and start spraying with fungicide every week. And make sure to rotate your crops.


Instruction: Why is it bad to leave ripe tomatoes on the plant?

Response: Leaving ripe tomatoes on the plant attracts pests and encourages disease. Always harvest regularly every 2 to 3 days. This keeps your plants healthy and your tomatoes safe. Also, stake or cage your plants to keep fruits and foliage off the ground. This helps prevent blight from spreading.


Instruction: My tomato leaves get wet and now they have spots. How I go fix am?

Response: Ah, my friend, wet leaves invite blight. First thing first, stop watering from above. Water only at the base of the plants. Then remove and burn all infected leaves. Do not compost them. Start spraying with fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, make sure your plants have good airflow by spacing them properly. And always rotate your crops.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are very small and bushy with yellow leaves bunched together. What is wrong?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's a serious virus spread by aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, there's no cure. You must remove and destroy the infected plants immediately to stop it spreading. Check your farm for aphids and treat with insecticide seed treatment before your next planting.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and yellow. The plants look stunted. What is this problem?

Response: Ah, this is groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus that makes plants stay small and bushy. The virus is spread by aphids, so you must control them. Plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Remove any infected plants right away.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut plants to remain small with yellow leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, my friend. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will never recover once infected. Remove them immediately and treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also, keep your farm weed-free to reduce aphid numbers.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing tall. They stay small and have yellow leaves. How can I fix this?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, I tell you. It's a virus that makes plants stay small and bushy. There's no cure, so remove the infected plants immediately. To prevent it, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: I see my groundnut plants have bunched yellow leaves and are very small. What does this mean?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, my friend. It's a serious virus that makes plants stay small and bushy. Once a plant is infected, it will never recover. Remove the infected plants immediately and treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also, plant early in the season to escape peak aphid populations.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are stunted and have yellow mottled leaves. What is the cause?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will not recover, so remove them immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and keep your farm weed-free.


Instruction: Why my groundnut plants don small with yellow leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, my friend. It's a virus spread by aphids that makes plants stay small and bushy. There's no cure, so remove the infected plants immediately. To prevent it, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing well. They stay small and have yellow leaves. What can I do?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will not recover, so remove them immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and keep your farm weed-free.


Instruction: I notice my groundnut plants are very small and have yellow leaves. What is happening?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, my friend. It's a serious virus that makes plants stay small and bushy. Once a plant is infected, it will never recover. Remove the infected plants immediately and treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also, plant early in the season to escape peak aphid populations.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and the plants are stunted. What is the problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will not recover, so remove them immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment and keep your farm weed-free.


Instruction: Greet the farmer and explain what FarmBot can help with

Response: Hello my friend! I'm FarmBot, your assistant for growing better groundnuts. I can help you spot diseases, give planting tips, and tell you when to harvest. Let's make your farm thrive this season!


Instruction: Farmer says: 'My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and plants are stunted. What is this?'

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by tiny green aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it won't recover. First thing first, pull out and burn the infected plants right away to stop it spreading.


Instruction: Farmer asks: 'How can I prevent groundnut rosette disease without spending much money?'

Response: The best way is to plant early at the very start of rains. That way you escape the worst aphid populations. Also, keep your farm very clean — weeds attract aphids. If you can, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones. This week, clear all weeds around your groundnut plants.


Instruction: Farmer asks: 'What is the best way to space my groundnut plants?'

Response: Space your groundnuts at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows. This gives good ground cover to stop weeds and lets the plants grow properly. Don't plant too close or too far — this spacing is just right for smallholder farmers like you.


Instruction: Farmer says: 'My groundnut pods are rotting in the soil. What is happening?'

Response: This is pod rot, usually from too much water. Groundnuts need well-drained soil. Next time, plant in sandy loam soil that doesn't hold too much water. Also, harvest before heavy rains to avoid this problem. This week, check your soil drainage.


Instruction: Farmer asks in pidgin: 'How I go plant groundnut for make big yield?'

Response: To get big yields, plant early when rains start. Use good spacing — 15 cm within rows, 30 cm between. Don't put too much nitrogen fertilizer — it makes leaves not pods. This week, check your planting time and spacing.


Instruction: Farmer asks: 'When should I harvest my groundnuts?'

Response: Harvest before heavy rains come. Wet pods can get aflatoxin which is very dangerous. Dry the pods properly before storing — moisture above 9 percent causes aflatoxin. This week, check the weather forecast for rains.


Instruction: Farmer says: 'I see tiny green insects on my groundnut leaves. What are they?'

Response: Those are aphids, the tiny green insects. They spread groundnut rosette disease. If you see them, spray with insecticide seed treatment before planting next time. This week, check all your plants for yellow leaves or stunting.


Instruction: Farmer asks: 'How can I store my groundnuts safely?'

Response: Dry the pods properly until moisture is below 9 percent. Wet pods get aflatoxin which is very dangerous. Store in clean, dry bags off the ground. This week, check your drying area is ready for harvest.


Instruction: Farmer asks in pidgin: 'Wetin I go do make my groundnut no get disease?'

Response: First plant early when rains start. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer. Keep your farm very clean — no weeds. This week, check your planting time and clear any weeds around your groundnuts.


Instruction: My maize leaves are getting holes with light shining through. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide in the whorl and feed at night. Check for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. First thing first, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl to kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: I see small caterpillars in my maize. How do I stop them fast?

Response: No need to panic. For young caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl. This scratches and kills them. You can also spray neem-based solution if the infestation is in the first 2 weeks.


Instruction: My maize don spoil. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: This could be fall armyworm. Look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Check early morning or evening when caterpillars come out. Apply sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: How do I know if my maize has fall armyworm?

Response: Look for irregular holes in leaves that look like windowpanes with light shining through. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Check early morning or evening when caterpillars come out. Scout 10-20 plants per field.


Instruction: My maize is getting eaten quickly. What can I do now?

Response: This is likely fall armyworm. For young caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl. For bigger infestations, use neem-based sprays or chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — always follow label dosage. Act fast before they spread.


Instruction: I see small caterpillars in my maize. How do I stop them?

Response: This is fall armyworm. For young caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl. This scratches and kills them. If the infestation is in the first 2 weeks, neem-based sprays work well. Act quickly to stop them from spreading.


Instruction: My maize leaves are getting holes. What is this and how do I treat it?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide in the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. For young caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl. This scratches and kills them.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: First, plant maize at the right time to avoid peak moth migration season. Also, intercrop maize with beans or soybean. This reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Always scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come out.


Instruction: My maize is being eaten by caterpillars. What do I do?

Response: This is fall armyworm. For young caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl. This scratches and kills them. If the infestation is in the first 2 weeks, neem-based sprays work well. Act quickly to stop them from spreading.


Instruction: I see small caterpillars in my maize. How do I get rid of them fast?

Response: This is fall armyworm. For young caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply into the whorl. This scratches and kills them. If the infestation is in the first 2 weeks, neem-based sprays work well. Act quickly to stop them from spreading.


Instruction: How does banana bunchy top virus spread from one plant to another?

Response: My friend, this virus spreads when tiny insects called banana aphids carry it from sick plants to healthy ones. The thing is, you cannot stop these aphids, but you can stop the virus by removing infected plants fast. Check your plantain today, if you see dark green streaks on leaves, chop it down immediately.


Instruction: What happens if I plant suckers from a farm that had bunchy top?

Response: Ah, no no no! The virus hides inside the sucker even if you can't see it. That's why you must never take suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Always get your suckers from certified clean sources or tissue culture. This week, check where you got your last suckers.


Instruction: My plantain don dey develop bunchy top, wetin I go do?

Response: First thing first, no need to panic. The moment you see those dark green streaks or yellowing leaves, chop the plant to the ground. Then inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do this today before the virus spreads.


Instruction: Can I treat plantain bunchy top with chemicals?

Response: I tell you, there is no cure for bunchy top. If you see symptoms, don't waste money on chemicals. The only thing to do is remove the plant fast and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Check your farm now, if you see any sick plants, act immediately.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You might also see dark green streaks or dots along the veins that turn yellow then brown. The plant will stop growing properly. If you see these signs, chop the plant down right away and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent bunchy top in my plantain farm?

Response: The best way is to plant only certified clean suckers from disease-free sources. Also, keep your farm clean and remove any infected plants immediately. Space your plants well for good airflow. This week, check your suckers' source and ensure they are from a reliable place.


Instruction: Why is it important to space plantain plants properly?

Response: Good spacing allows airflow between plants, which helps prevent the spread of diseases like bunchy top. It also makes it easier to harvest and manage your farm. Space your plantain at 3 metres by 3 metres. If your plants are too close, thin them out this week.


Instruction: Can bunchy top virus survive in the soil?

Response: No, the virus does not survive in the soil. It spreads through banana aphids and hides inside infected suckers. The best thing is to remove infected plants and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Always plant clean suckers. Check your farm today for any signs of bunchy top.


Instruction: How do I know if my suckers are from a disease-free source?

Response: Ask the supplier if they are certified clean or from tissue culture. If they can't prove it, don't buy. Always get your suckers from trusted sources. This week, make sure your next batch of suckers comes from a reliable place.


Instruction: What should I do if I find a plantain plant with bunchy top in my farm?

Response: Chop it down immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground so it can't reshoot and spread the virus. Do this today before it affects other plants. Also, check the plants around it closely for any signs.


Instruction: How does plantain bunchy top virus spread from one plant to another?

Response: My friend, the virus spreads through tiny insects called banana aphids. They carry the virus from sick plants to healthy ones. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it's a total loss. First thing first: if you see symptoms, cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the underground part. This week, check your plants for aphids and remove them.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don get short and stiff for top. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, this sound like bunchy top virus. The leaves turn short and stiff, and you'll see dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. No cure for this, I tell you. Chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Don't move any suckers from this farm — the virus hides inside them. Get clean suckers from a trusted source next time.


Instruction: Can I treat plantain bunchy top virus with chemicals?

Response: No need to waste money on chemicals, my friend. Once a plant has bunchy top, it's done. The best thing is to cut it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the underground part. This stops the virus from spreading. Check your other plants today and remove any with symptoms.


Instruction: What should I do if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: If you see bunchy top symptoms — short, stiff leaves with dark streaks — don't panic. Chop the infected plant to the ground right away. Then inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This stops the virus from spreading. Remember, never move suckers from this farm. Get certified clean suckers next time.


Instruction: How can I stop plantain bunchy top from spreading to my other plants?

Response: To stop bunchy top from spreading, act fast. The moment you see symptoms, cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the underground part and stops the virus. Also, check your plants for aphids and remove them. They spread the virus. This week, inspect all your plants and remove any with symptoms.


Instruction: My neighbor's plantain has bunchy top. How can I protect my farm?

Response: If your neighbor's plantain has bunchy top, be very careful. The virus spreads through banana aphids. Check your plants often for symptoms — short, stiff leaves with dark streaks. If you see any, cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Also, don't move any suckers from your farm or your neighbor's. Get clean suckers from a trusted source next time.


Instruction: Can I save a plantain plant that has bunchy top?

Response: No, my friend, you cannot save a plant with bunchy top. The moment you see symptoms, cut it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the underground part and stops the virus from spreading. Check your other plants today and remove any with symptoms.


Instruction: What are the signs of plantain bunchy top?

Response: Bunchy top makes the leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks along the veins and leaf edges that turn yellow then brown. The plant stops growing and will never produce a bunch. If you see these signs, cut the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This week, inspect your plants and remove any with symptoms.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll also see dark green streaks along the veins and leaf edges that turn yellow then brown. If you see these signs, the plant is infected and cannot be saved. Cut it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Check your other plants today and remove any with symptoms.


Instruction: What should I do if I find bunchy top in my plantain farm?

Response: If you find bunchy top, act fast. Cut the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the underground part and stops the virus from spreading. Also, don't move any suckers from this farm. Get certified clean suckers from a disease-free source next time. Inspect your plants this week and remove any with symptoms.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes like windows, what is this?

Response: My friend, that is fall armyworm. They hide inside the whorl and eat at night. Check for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. First thing first, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: Look for ragged holes in leaves that look like windowpanes. Check inside the whorl for wet sawdust-like droppings. That is the caterpillar's droppings. Scout early morning or evening when they come out to feed. Check 10-20 plants per field.


Instruction: My maize don spoil, leaves full of holes, wetin dey cause this?

Response: That is fall armyworm. They hide inside the whorl and eat the leaves. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars. Do this today.


Instruction: What is the best way to control fall armyworm in maize?

Response: The best way is to mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays also work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Always follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm from attacking my maize?

Response: Plant maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Scout your field regularly, especially early morning or evening.


Instruction: What should I do if I find fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: If you find fall armyworm, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is severe, you may need to use chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — always follow label dosage. Act quickly.


Instruction: My maize has fall armyworm, how I go treat am?

Response: First, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is severe, you may need to use neem-based sprays or chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — always follow label dosage. Do this today.


Instruction: What is the best time to scout for fall armyworm in maize?

Response: The best time to scout for fall armyworm is early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface to feed. Check 10-20 plants per field. Look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl.


Instruction: How can I reduce fall armyworm attack in my maize field?

Response: Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Also, plant maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Scout your field regularly and act quickly if you find any signs of infestation.


Instruction: What are the signs of fall armyworm in maize?

Response: The signs of fall armyworm are ragged holes in leaves that look like windowpanes. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. These are the caterpillar's droppings. Scout early morning or evening when they come out to feed. Check 10-20 plants per field.


Instruction: My maize leaves have big holes and look like someone took a bite out of them. What is this?

Response: My friend, that sounds like fall armyworm. Those caterpillars hide in the whorl and feed at night. Check for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. You can mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it inside the whorl to kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: I see small irregular holes in my maize leaves, like someone used a rough knife. What could be the cause?

Response: That is likely fall armyworm, a common maize pest. The caterpillars feed on leaves and leave ragged holes. Look for their droppings inside the whorl. If you see them, apply neem-based spray to control the young caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize plants have holes in the leaves and some wet sawdust-like stuff inside the whorl. What is happening?

Response: You are describing fall armyworm, a serious maize pest. The wet sawdust is their droppings. Check your plants early morning or evening when caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: Ma maize don dey spoil, leaf don dey full hole like someone bite am. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: That is fall armyworm, a common maize pest. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: I notice my maize leaves have holes and there is a wet, sawdust-like substance inside the whorl. What should I do?

Response: That is fall armyworm, a common maize pest. The wet sawdust is their droppings. Check your plants early morning or evening. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize plants have holes in the leaves and some wet, sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. What is the problem?

Response: That is fall armyworm, a common maize pest. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for the wet sawdust-like droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: I see holes in my maize leaves and some wet sawdust inside the whorl. What is this and how do I treat it?

Response: That is fall armyworm, a common maize pest. The wet sawdust is their droppings. Check your plants early morning or evening. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: Ma maize leaf don full hole like somebody don use knife cut am. How I go treat am?

Response: That is fall armyworm, a common maize pest. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes and there is a wet, sawdust-like substance inside the whorl. What is causing this?

Response: That is fall armyworm, a common maize pest. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for the wet sawdust-like droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: I notice holes in my maize leaves and some wet sawdust inside the whorl. What is this and what can I do?

Response: That is fall armyworm, a common maize pest. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for the wet sawdust-like droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots. What I no dey do?

Response: My friend, don't ignore those spots. This is anthracnose disease. First thing first, don't use overhead irrigation. The wet leaves make it worse. Also, don't leave fallen leaves on the ground. They carry the fungus. This week, prune your tree to improve air flow.


Instruction: What should I avoid doing if I see dark spots on my mango fruits?

Response: When you see dark spots, don't panic. But don't drop the fruits when harvesting. Bruises let the fungus in. Also, don't store them in a wet place. Keep them cool and dry immediately after picking.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. What I suppose no do?

Response: If your flowers are dying, don't wait to act. This is anthracnose. Don't ignore it. The thing is, wet conditions make it worse. Avoid overhead irrigation. This week, spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What practices should I avoid to prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: To prevent anthracnose, don't leave dead wood on your tree. Prune after harvest. Also, don't ignore fallen leaves and fruits. They carry spores. This week, remove all debris from under your tree.


Instruction: How can I stop my mangoes from rotting after harvest?

Response: If your mangoes are rotting after harvest, don't handle them roughly. Bruises let the fungus in. Also, don't store them in a wet place. Keep them cool and dry. This week, harvest carefully and store properly.


Instruction: What should I not do when I see black spots on my mango leaves?

Response: When you see black spots, don't use overhead irrigation. Wet leaves make the problem worse. Also, don't leave fallen leaves on the ground. They carry the fungus. This week, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: My mango fruits are getting dark spots before harvest. What I no go do?

Response: If your fruits have dark spots, don't drop them when harvesting. Bruises let the fungus in. Also, don't store them in a wet place. Keep them cool and dry. This week, harvest carefully and store properly.


Instruction: What should I avoid to prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: To prevent anthracnose, don't leave dead wood on your tree. Prune after harvest. Also, don't ignore fallen leaves and fruits. They carry spores. This week, remove all debris from under your tree.


Instruction: How can I stop my mango flowers from dying?

Response: If your flowers are dying, don't wait to act. This is anthracnose. Don't ignore it. The thing is, wet conditions make it worse. Avoid overhead irrigation. This week, spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What should I not do if my mango leaves have brown spots?

Response: When you see brown spots, don't use overhead irrigation. Wet leaves make the problem worse. Also, don't leave fallen leaves on the ground. They carry the fungus. This week, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: My friend, when is the best time to plant cassava?

Response: The best time is at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants enough water to grow strong. First thing first, check your local weather patterns and prepare your land early.


Instruction: Wetin be the best time wey I fit harvest my cassava?

Response: Harvest time depends on your variety and what you want to use it for. Most cassava is ready between 9 to 18 months. If you need big tubers, wait longer. Check your stems now to see if they're ready.


Instruction: How often should I weed my cassava farm?

Response: Weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, the cassava plants will shade out most weeds. Start weeding this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: When should I apply fertilizer to my cassava?

Response: Cassava responds well to potassium fertilizer. Apply it at planting time and again 3 months later. Check your local agro shop for potassium fertilizer and buy some this week.


Instruction: What is the best spacing for cassava plants?

Response: Space your cassava plants 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives them enough room to grow well and makes weeding easier. Measure your spacing now if you're planting soon.


Instruction: How long does it take for cassava mosaic disease to show?

Response: Cassava mosaic symptoms appear within a few weeks after infection. You'll see yellow and green patterns, curling, and leaf distortion. Check your plants regularly for these signs.


Instruction: When should I remove plants with cassava mosaic disease?

Response: Remove and destroy infected plants immediately as soon as you see symptoms. This stops the whiteflies from spreading the virus to healthy plants. Look for sick plants in your farm today.


Instruction: How often should I spray neem oil to control whiteflies?

Response: Spray neem-based solutions every 2 weeks during the dry season when whiteflies are most active. Mix neem oil with water and spray on the leaves. Prepare your spray mix this week.


Instruction: Can I plant cassava stems from a farm that had mosaic disease?

Response: No, don't do that. The virus can travel with the stem. Always use disease-free stems from healthy plants. Buy certified stems from a trusted source for your next planting.


Instruction: When should I mound the soil before planting cassava?

Response: Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Do this at least a week before you plant. Start mounding your land if you're preparing for the next planting season.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have yellow patches and are curling up. What is wrong?

Response: My friend, your cassava likely has mosaic disease. This virus spreads through whiteflies. First thing first, pull out the sick plants and burn them far from your farm. Then spray neem solution to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant resistant varieties like TME 419.


Instruction: How can I stop cassava mosaic from spreading to my healthy plants?

Response: No need to panic. The best thing is to remove and burn infected plants right away. Then use yellow sticky traps or neem spray to control the whiteflies that spread the disease. Always plant disease-free stems from healthy plants only.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis mosaic problem for my cassava?

Response: The thing is, mosaic disease comes from a virus spread by whiteflies. You see those yellow and green patches on the leaves? That is the virus. To stop it, remove and burn sick plants immediately. Also, plant resistant varieties next time.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cassava?

Response: Plant cassava at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants the best chance to grow strong. Make sure to space them 1 metre apart for good yield and easy weeding. Also, mound the soil before planting to improve drainage.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava stems are free from mosaic disease?

Response: Healthy stems come from healthy plants. Always take stems from a farm that has never had mosaic disease. Never take stems from a farm where mosaic was seen. The virus travels with the stem, so this is very important.


Instruction: My cassava tubers are small and deformed. What went wrong?

Response: This could be mosaic disease. Infected plants often produce small, deformed tubers. Remove and burn the sick plants right away. Next time, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. Also, mound the soil before planting to help the tubers grow bigger.


Instruction: How can I control whiteflies on my cassava farm?

Response: Use yellow sticky traps around the farm to catch whiteflies. You can also spray neem-based solutions. Follow the label instructions carefully. These methods will help reduce the number of whiteflies and stop the spread of mosaic disease.


Instruction: What should I do if I find mosaic disease in my cassava farm?

Response: First, remove and burn the infected plants immediately. Do not leave them in the farm. Then, use yellow sticky traps or neem spray to control the whiteflies. Make sure to plant disease-free stems from healthy plants next time.


Instruction: How far apart should I plant my cassava?

Response: Space your cassava plants 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives them room to grow well and makes weeding easier. Also, mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Weed regularly for the first 3 months.


Instruction: Can I replant cassava stems from a farm that had mosaic disease?

Response: No, my friend. The virus travels with the stem. Always take stems from a farm that has never had mosaic disease. This is the best way to keep your new farm healthy. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419 for extra protection.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from attacking my crop?

Response: My friend, first thing first, intercrop your cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio. This will reduce aphid pressure. Also, plant early to escape the peak aphid populations in the dry season. Today, check your farm and remove any heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and curling. What can I do?

Response: This sounds like aphid attack. They suck sap and spread viruses. Check for small black or brown insects on young shoots and pods. Today, mix neem oil with soap and spray on your plants. This will help control the aphids.


Instruction: How can I protect my cowpea from pests without using chemicals?

Response: You can use natural methods like neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, plant early and intercrop with maize. Protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and hoverflies as they feed on aphids. Today, inspect your farm and remove any heavily infested parts.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaves turn yellow and wilt?

Response: This could be cowpea aphids. They suck plant sap and cause yellowing and wilting. Check for small black or brown insects on your plants. Today, mix neem oil with soap and spray on your plants to control the aphids.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cowpea aphids from attacking my farm?

Response: Intercrop cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio. Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Plant early to escape peak aphid populations. Today, check your farm and remove any heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: How can I manage cowpea aphids effectively?

Response: Use neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts. Protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and hoverflies. Today, inspect your farm and take action if you see any aphids.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are stunted and have black mould on the leaves. What should I do?

Response: This could be aphids. They produce sticky honeydew that causes black sooty mould. Check for small black or brown insects on your plants. Today, mix neem oil with soap and spray on your plants to control the aphids.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from spreading to my whole farm?

Response: Remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts before aphids spread. Intercrop with maize and plant early. Today, inspect your farm and take action if you see any aphids.


Instruction: What natural enemies of cowpea aphids should I protect?

Response: Ladybird beetles, hoverflies and parasitic wasps feed on aphids. Protect them as they help control aphid populations. Today, inspect your farm and remove any heavily infested parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: How can I improve soil fertility after harvesting cowpea?

Response: Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, improving fertility for the next crop. Today, plan to plant a nitrogen-loving crop like maize after your cowpea harvest to benefit from the improved soil fertility.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: My friend, check your leaves. If you see yellow and green patches like a mosaic, or if the leaves curl up, that's mosaic disease. The thing is, if it's bad, your tubers will be small and useless. First thing first, cut and burn those plants right away so it doesn't spread.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause cassava mosaic?

Response: The cause is a tiny virus, and whiteflies spread it from plant to plant. The virus stays in the stems too, so never use stems from a bad farm. Always plant healthy stems only, I tell you.


Instruction: What's the best way to stop mosaic disease in my cassava?

Response: First, plant only disease-free stems from healthy plants. Remove and burn any infected plants immediately. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Check your farm this week and remove any bad plants.


Instruction: When should I plant my cassava?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season so the plants get enough water to grow strong. Cassava likes rain, you know. Mark your planting spots today if you haven't already.


Instruction: How far apart should I space my cassava plants?

Response: Space them 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives them room to grow big and makes weeding easier. Measure your farm this week and plan your spacing.


Instruction: Why is my cassava not growing well?

Response: Maybe it's not getting enough water or nutrients. Cassava likes potassium, so if your soil is poor, add some fertilizer. Also, check for diseases like mosaic. Weed your farm this week to give the plants room to grow.


Instruction: How do I control whiteflies in my cassava farm?

Response: Use neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around the farm. These traps catch the whiteflies before they spread the mosaic virus. Make your traps or buy neem spray this week.


Instruction: Can I replant stems from a farm that had mosaic disease?

Response: No, no, no! The virus stays in the stems. Even if the plant looks healthy, the stems carry the disease. Always use stems from a healthy, disease-free farm. Get new stems this week if you're not sure.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest cassava?

Response: Harvest between 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you want to use it for. Check your plants now and plan your harvest time.


Instruction: How can I improve the size of my cassava tubers?

Response: Mound the soil before planting. This improves drainage and gives the tubers more room to grow big. Prepare your soil this week if you're planning to plant soon.


Instruction: My friend, my cocoa pods get black rot. How I know if is black pod disease?

Response: My friend, if you see brown or black rotting patches on your cocoa pods at any stage, that is black pod disease. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. First thing first, remove and bury those infected pods deeply or burn them. Never leave them on the ground.


Instruction: I dey fear say my cocoa farm go spoil. Wetin be dis black pod disease?

Response: Black pod disease na serious problem for cocoa. It cause by fungus and make your pods turn brown or black and rot. The thing is, it spread fast when the weather wet and humid. You must remove and destroy infected pods immediately to stop the spread.


Instruction: What causes black pod disease in cocoa and how can I prevent it?

Response: Black pod disease is caused by fungus that loves wet and humid conditions. To prevent it, prune your trees regularly to allow light and air inside the farm. Also, harvest ripe pods every two weeks and remove any diseased pods immediately. Do not leave them on the ground.


Instruction: How often should I prune my cocoa trees to prevent black pod disease?

Response: You should prune your cocoa trees after each harvest. This allows light and air into the canopy, reducing humidity and making it harder for the disease to spread. Also, remove any deadwood or mummified pods during pruning.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. Is this black pod disease and how do I treat it?

Response: Yes, black spots on your cocoa pods could be black pod disease. The first thing to do is remove and destroy the infected pods. Then, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What is the best time to establish a new cocoa farm to avoid black pod disease?

Response: Do not establish new farms too late in the rainy season. The best time is early in the rainy season when the weather is not too wet and humid. This helps your young trees to grow strong before the peak of the rainy season.


Instruction: How can I improve airflow in my cocoa farm to prevent black pod disease?

Response: Prune your trees regularly to allow light and air into the canopy. This reduces humidity and makes it harder for the disease to spread. Also, remove any deadwood or mummified pods during pruning to keep your farm clean.


Instruction: What should I do with infected cocoa pods to stop the spread of black pod disease?

Response: You must remove and bury the infected pods deeply or burn them. Never leave them on the ground. This is very important to stop the disease from spreading to other pods. Also, prune your trees regularly to improve airflow.


Instruction: I hear say black pod disease dey destroy cocoa farms. How I go know if my farm get am?

Response: If you see brown or black rotting patches on your cocoa pods, that is black pod disease. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. First thing first, remove and destroy those infected pods immediately. Do not leave them on the ground.


Instruction: What is sanitation harvesting and how does it help in managing black pod disease?

Response: Sanitation harvesting is when you remove diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood all at once. This helps to stop the spread of black pod disease. Do this regularly, especially after each harvest, to keep your farm clean and healthy.


Instruction: My friend, my tomato leaves don get this brown spots with yellow around them. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. The thing is, this disease loves wet weather. First thing first, remove those bad leaves and burn them — don't compost. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Also, water at the base of the plant, not on the leaves. You can start treating today!


Instruction: My tomato plants just get this grey-green patches that turn brown. What is this?

Response: Ah, this is late blight, a very serious disease. It spreads fast in wet, cool weather. Remove and burn any infected leaves immediately. Spray with a copper-based fungicide every week during the rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds next time to help with drainage. Act fast, my friend!


Instruction: How I go prevent blight in my tomato farm?

Response: To prevent blight, first thing first, rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same spot two years running. Plant on raised beds for better drainage. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during the rainy season. And always water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. Start planning your crop rotation today!


Instruction: My tomato leaves don spoil. How I go treat am?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Remove and burn the infected leaves — don't compost them. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide every week during the rainy season. Also, make sure your plants have good airflow by spacing them properly. Start treating today!


Instruction: What is the best way to space tomato plants to avoid disease?

Response: Space your tomato plants at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This gives them good airflow, which helps prevent disease. Also, stake or cage them at 30 cm height to keep fruits and foliage off the ground. Start spacing your plants properly today!


Instruction: My tomato plants get wet easily. How I go prevent disease?

Response: If your plants stay wet, they will get blight fast. Water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. Also, plant on raised beds or ridges to improve drainage. And remove any infected leaves immediately — burn them, don't compost. Start improving your watering practices today!


Instruction: How I go know if my tomato plants have blight?

Response: Check the lower leaves first. Early blight shows dark brown spots with yellow around them. Late blight causes grey-green patches that turn brown fast. If you see these signs, remove and burn the infected leaves immediately. Start checking your plants today!


Instruction: My tomato farm get blight every year. How I go stop this?

Response: If blight keeps coming back, rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same spot two years in a row. Plant maize or cowpea instead next season. Also, spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during the rainy season. Start planning your crop rotation today!


Instruction: What I go do if my tomato leaves get wet and stay wet?

Response: If your leaves stay wet, they will get blight fast. Water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. Also, plant on raised beds or ridges to improve drainage. And remove any infected leaves immediately — burn them, don't compost. Start improving your watering practices today!


Instruction: My tomato plants get blight every rainy season. How I go prevent this?

Response: To prevent blight during the rainy season, spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week. Also, remove and burn any infected leaves immediately — don't compost them. And water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. Start treating your plants today!


Instruction: How can I prevent cassava mosaic disease from ruining my farm?

Response: My friend, prevention is better than cure. First thing first, always use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. This is the number one rule. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Today, check your stems for any signs of disease before planting.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don get yellow and green patchy pattern, wetin I go do?

Response: Ah, my friend, that sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, this virus spreads by whiteflies. You must remove and destroy those infected plants immediately before the whitefly spreads it further. Today, go and cut down those sick plants and burn them far from your farm.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant cassava to avoid problems later?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season for best establishment. Space your plants 1 metre by 1 metre. This helps with good yield and makes weeding easier. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. Today, measure your farm and plan your spacing.


Instruction: How can I stop whiteflies from attacking my cassava?

Response: Whiteflies spread cassava mosaic disease. To control them, use neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm. These traps catch the whiteflies before they can spread the virus. Today, make a neem spray or buy some sticky traps.


Instruction: Is it true that cassava can grow in poor soil?

Response: Yes, cassava can tolerate poor soils but it grows better with some care. Add potassium fertilizer if you can. This helps the plant grow strong and produce good tubers. Today, check your soil and see if you need to add any fertilizer.


Instruction: What should I do if I find a cassava plant with curled leaves?

Response: Curled leaves are a sign of cassava mosaic disease. You must act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plant immediately. Do not leave it in the farm. Burn it far away to stop the virus from spreading. Today, cut down that sick plant and burn it.


Instruction: How often should I weed my cassava farm?

Response: Weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, cassava shades out most weeds. Regular weeding helps the plants grow strong and healthy. Today, go and weed your farm if you haven't done so recently.


Instruction: Can I replant cassava stems from a farm that had mosaic disease?

Response: No, my friend, you must not do that. The virus travels with the stem. Always use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. Today, get new stems from a reliable source.


Instruction: What is the best time to harvest cassava?

Response: Harvest cassava at 9 to 18 months depending on the variety and what you want to use it for. Some varieties are ready earlier, others take longer. Today, check your cassava plants and see if they are ready for harvest.


Instruction: How can I make sure my cassava plants grow well?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season and space them well. Mound the soil before planting and weed regularly for the first 3 months. Use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties. Today, check your planting practices and make any needed changes.


Instruction: How do I stop cassava mosaic disease from ruining my farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first — remove and burn any plants with yellow-green patches or curled leaves. The thing is, whiteflies spread this virus, so use neem spray or yellow sticky traps to control them. Always plant disease-free stems and choose resistant varieties like TME 419. This week, inspect your farm and destroy any infected plants.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don get mosaic pattern, wetin I go do?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Cut down those plants and burn them far from your farm. Check your other plants for similar signs. Use neem spray to keep whiteflies away. Next time, plant only healthy stems and choose resistant varieties. Today, remove all infected plants and spray neem.


Instruction: When should I plant cassava for best results?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season so the young plants get enough water to grow strong. This week, prepare your land and get your planting stems ready. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size.


Instruction: How far apart should I plant my cassava?

Response: Space your cassava plants 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives them room to grow big and makes weeding easier. For the first 3 months, weed regularly. After that, the cassava will shade out most weeds. Today, measure your farm and plan your spacing.


Instruction: What fertilizer helps cassava grow better?

Response: Cassava can grow in poor soil, but it loves potassium. Use potassium fertilizer to boost your yield. Apply it carefully, following the label instructions. This week, check your fertilizer supply and plan your application.


Instruction: How do I know when to harvest my cassava?

Response: Harvest time depends on your variety and what you want to use the cassava for. Most varieties are ready between 9 to 18 months. Check your plants regularly to see when the tubers are big enough. Today, inspect your cassava and plan your harvest.


Instruction: Can I replant cassava stems from a farm that had mosaic disease?

Response: No, you must not! The virus stays in the stems. Always use disease-free stems from healthy plants. This week, source your planting stems from a reliable, disease-free farm.


Instruction: My friend say I should use yellow sticky traps for cassava mosaic. Is this true?

Response: Yes, my friend is right. Yellow sticky traps catch whiteflies, which spread the mosaic virus. Hang them around your farm to control the pests. This week, make or buy some yellow sticky traps and place them in your cassava field.


Instruction: What should I do if I find only a few plants with mosaic disease?

Response: Even if only a few plants are infected, you must remove and destroy them immediately. The virus spreads quickly through whiteflies. Do not wait — act today. Cut down the infected plants and burn them far from your farm.


Instruction: How can I be sure my cassava stems are disease-free?

Response: Buy stems from a trusted source known for healthy plants. Look for stems from resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Inspect the stems before planting — they should be firm and free of any unusual spots or growths. This week, source your planting stems from a reliable supplier.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing tall but have many small leaves. They look yellow and bunched together. What is wrong?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's a virus spread by tiny green aphids. The thing is, once plants get it, they never recover. First thing first, pull out and burn these plants today to protect others. Next week, check your whole farm and remove any other infected plants you see.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut leaves to turn yellow and look mottled like this?

Response: Ah, that's groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. These tiny insects suck sap and spread the virus. The plants stay small and bushy with those yellow mottled leaves. This week, check your farm for any plants like this and remove them immediately.


Instruction: I planted my groundnut late this season. Now some plants are stunted with yellow leaves. What could be happening?

Response: Late planting often leads to groundnut rosette disease. The virus spreads more when you plant late because aphid populations peak later in the season. The infected plants will never recover. Today, remove and burn all affected plants to stop the disease spreading.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are very small with many small leaves that are yellow and bunched together. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. The plants will never grow properly. First thing first, pull out and burn these plants today. Then check your whole farm and remove any other plants with these symptoms.