Instruction: Some of my groundnut plants are not growing tall but have many small leaves that are yellow and bunched together. What is this problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will never recover. Today, remove and burn all affected plants. Next week, check your farm again and remove any other infected plants you find.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and have green and yellow patches. The plants are not growing tall. What is wrong?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's a virus spread by aphids. The plants will never recover. Today, pull out and burn all affected plants. Then check your whole farm and remove any other plants with these symptoms.


Instruction: I see some groundnut plants with small leaves that are yellow and bunched together. The plants are not growing tall. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. The plants will never recover. First thing first, remove and burn these plants today. Then check your whole farm and remove any other plants with these symptoms.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut plants to stay small with many small yellow leaves?

Response: Ah, that's groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will never recover. Today, remove and burn all affected plants. Then check your whole farm and remove any other plants with these symptoms.


Instruction: Some of my groundnut plants are very small with many small leaves that are yellow and bunched together. What is this problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. The plants will never recover. Today, pull out and burn all affected plants. Then check your whole farm and remove any other plants with these symptoms.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing tall but have many small leaves that are yellow and bunched together. What is wrong with them?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It's a virus spread by aphids. The plants will never recover. First thing first, remove and burn these plants today. Then check your whole farm and remove any other plants with these symptoms.


Instruction: My friend, I see my cassava leaves have yellow and green patches. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, that sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, it's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First thing first, check your farm for plants with curled or twisted leaves. Those ones must be removed and destroyed right away to stop the virus from spreading. You can also use neem-based sprays to control the whiteflies. Today, inspect your farm and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: I don plant cassava but some leaves don show mosaic pattern. Wetin I do?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. You must remove those infected plants immediately and destroy them far from your farm. The virus spreads quickly through whiteflies. Also, use disease-free stems for replanting. Today, go and remove the bad plants and burn them.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant cassava in my farm?

Response: The best time to plant cassava is at the start of the rainy season. This helps the plants establish well. Make sure to space them 1 metre apart for good yield. Today, check your farm and decide where to plant your cassava.


Instruction: How can I improve the size of my cassava tubers?

Response: To get bigger tubers, mound the soil before planting. This improves drainage and gives the tubers more room to grow. Cassava also responds well to potassium fertilizer. Today, prepare your soil by mounding it before planting.


Instruction: What should I do if my cassava farm has whiteflies?

Response: Whiteflies spread the cassava mosaic virus, so you must control them. Use neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm. These methods help reduce the whitefly population. Today, make a neem spray or set up sticky traps.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and have mosaic patterns. How can I prevent this in the future?

Response: To prevent cassava mosaic disease, always use disease-free planting stems. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Today, check your stems and ensure they are healthy before planting.


Instruction: How often should I weed my cassava farm?

Response: Weed your cassava farm regularly for the first 3 months. After that, the cassava plants will shade out most weeds. Regular weeding helps the plants grow well. Today, schedule a weeding session for your farm.


Instruction: What is the best spacing for cassava plants?

Response: The best spacing for cassava plants is 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives the plants enough room to grow and makes weeding easier. Today, measure your farm and plan the spacing for your cassava plants.


Instruction: How do I know when my cassava is ready for harvest?

Response: Cassava is ready for harvest between 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you plan to use it for. Check the size of the tubers to be sure. Today, inspect your cassava plants to see if they are ready for harvest.


Instruction: Can cassava grow in poor soil?

Response: Yes, cassava can tolerate poor soils, but it grows better with some potassium fertilizer. Mounding the soil before planting also helps improve drainage and tuber size. Today, prepare your soil by adding some potassium fertilizer if you have it.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant maize?

Response: My friend, the best time to plant maize is when the rains are reliable in your area. This helps avoid the peak moth migration season. First thing first, check your local planting calendar.


Instruction: Wetin be de best time to plant maize for avoid armyworm?

Response: The best time to plant maize to avoid fall armyworm is when the rains are steady but not at the peak of moth migration. This way, your maize can grow strong before the pests arrive. Check with your local extension officer for the best planting dates in your area.


Instruction: How often should I check my maize for fall armyworm?

Response: You should check your maize for fall armyworm every 3-4 days, especially in the early morning or late evening. Look for those ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. The thing is, the earlier you catch them, the easier it is to control them.


Instruction: What is the right spacing for maize planting to avoid pests?

Response: Plant your maize with 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, one seed per hole. This spacing helps your maize grow strong and makes it harder for pests like fall armyworm to spread quickly. Proper spacing also helps with weed control.


Instruction: When should I apply the second half of nitrogen fertilizer to my maize?

Response: Apply the second half of your nitrogen fertilizer when your maize reaches knee height. This gives your maize the boost it needs to grow strong and healthy. Don't wait too long, or your maize might not get the full benefit.


Instruction: How can I tell if fall armyworm is attacking my maize early?

Response: Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes with light through them. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like frass (droppings) inside the whorl. Check your maize early in the morning or late in the evening when the caterpillars come to the surface.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest maize to avoid weevils?

Response: Harvest your maize promptly when it is dry. This helps avoid weevils and other post-harvest losses in storage. The longer you leave it in the field, the higher the risk of pests attacking your maize.


Instruction: How often should I scout for fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: Scout for fall armyworm every 3-4 days, especially in the early morning or late evening. Check 10-20 plants per field. The thing is, the earlier you catch them, the easier it is to control them.


Instruction: What should I do if I find fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: If you find fall armyworm in your maize field, don't panic. First, apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to scratch and kill young caterpillars. For bigger infestations, use neem-based sprays or chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos — always follow the label dosage.


Instruction: When should I intercrop maize with beans or soybean?

Response: Intercrop maize with beans or soybean right at planting. This helps reduce fall armyworm attacks significantly. The beans or soybean act as a trap crop, attracting the pests away from your maize. This is a simple and effective way to control fall armyworm naturally.


Instruction: My friend, I see my plantain leaves getting stiff and crowded at the top. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is plantain bunchy top virus. It is very bad news — your plant will never bear fruit. First thing first: chop it down to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do not waste money on treatment. This week, check all your plants closely for symptoms.


Instruction: I no dey see any bunch for my plantain. The leaves just dey small and stiff. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is bunchy top virus, my friend. It stops the plant from growing properly. The thing is, there is no cure. Chop down the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do not move any suckers from this farm — plant only certified clean suckers next time.


Instruction: Should I move suckers from my old plantain farm to start a new one?

Response: No, no, no! Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. This week, buy certified clean suckers from a disease-free source or get tissue culture plantlets.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. What should I do?

Response: Those streaks mean bunchy top virus. Do not waste time or money trying to treat it. Chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Then, check all nearby plants for symptoms and remove them too.


Instruction: Is it good to plant plantain very close together?

Response: No, my friend. Plantain needs space. Space your suckers at 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows good airflow and makes it easier to harvest. This week, measure your spacing and thin out crowded plants.


Instruction: Can I use any fertilizer for my plantain?

Response: Plantain loves potassium. Do not use just any fertilizer. Apply a potassium-rich fertilizer, especially during growth. This week, check your fertilizer bag to make sure it has enough potassium.


Instruction: Should I leave all the suckers on my plantain mat?

Response: No, my friend. Too many suckers weaken the plant. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. This week, remove extra suckers to give the plant energy to grow and fruit.


Instruction: Is it okay to plant plantain at any time of the year?

Response: No, my friend. Plant at the start of the rainy season. This gives the suckers time to establish before the dry season. This week, plan your planting for the next rainy season.


Instruction: Should I ignore weeds around my plantain?

Response: No, my friend. Weeds compete with plantain for water and nutrients. Mulch heavily around your plants to suppress weeds and retain moisture. This week, clear weeds and apply fresh mulch.


Instruction: What should I do if I see aphids on my plantain leaves?

Response: Aphids spread bunchy top virus. Spray with insecticide to protect your plants. But remember, if you see bunchy top symptoms, chop down the plant immediately. This week, check your plants for aphids and treat if needed.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: My friend, if your plantain leaves are short, stiff, and crowded at the top, with dark green streaks turning yellow then brown, you likely have bunchy top. The plant stops growing and won't produce a bunch. Check your plants today and remove any showing these signs immediately.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don turn yellow and brown with green streaks, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is bunchy top virus. It's very bad news — no cure for this one. The thing is, you must chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do this today to stop it spreading.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: First thing first, plant at the start of the rainy season for best results. This helps the suckers establish well. Check your calendar and plant this week if the rains have started.


Instruction: How far apart should I space my plantain plants?

Response: Space them 3 metres by 3 metres. This gives good airflow to prevent disease and makes harvesting easier. Measure your field today and plan your spacing before planting.


Instruction: What should I do with extra suckers on my plantain mat?

Response: You must desucker — keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. Remove the rest. Too many suckers weaken the plant. Do this weeding this week to keep your plants strong.


Instruction: What type of fertilizer is best for plantain?

Response: Plantain loves potassium. Use a potassium-rich fertilizer — it's a heavy feeder. Check your fertilizer bag today and make sure it has high potassium content.


Instruction: Can I move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top?

Response: No, no, no! The virus hides inside the sucker with no signs. Never move suckers from an infected farm. Buy certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets instead. Plan your next planting with clean material.


Instruction: How can I stop weeds around my plantain?

Response: Mulch heavily around your plants. This keeps moisture in and blocks weeds. Gather dry grass or leaves this week and spread around your plantain.


Instruction: My plantain plants are not growing well, what can I do?

Response: Check for bunchy top first — if no, maybe they need more potassium. Apply potassium-rich fertilizer and mulch well. Also, ensure good spacing for airflow. Assess your plants today and act.


Instruction: I want to plant new plantain, how can I be sure the suckers are disease-free?

Response: Buy only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Never take suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Visit an agricultural office this week to get clean planting material.


Instruction: How I go stop cowpea aphid for my farm without spend much money?

Response: My friend, first thing first: plant your cowpea early before the dry season. Also, mix it with maize at 4:1 ratio. This will reduce the aphids. If you see them, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. This is cheap and works well. Check your farm today and start planning your planting.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves don turn yellow and wilt. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This could be cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the leaves and cause yellowing and wilting. Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects on your plants. If you see them, act fast. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. This will help control them without spending too much money.


Instruction: How can I prevent cowpea aphids without using chemicals?

Response: Plant your cowpea early and intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. This will reduce aphid pressure. Also, avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Natural enemies like ladybird beetles and hoverflies feed on aphids, so protect them. Check your farm this week and see if you need to adjust your planting plan.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to control cowpea aphids?

Response: The cheapest way is to use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. These are affordable and effective. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts before the aphids spread. This will save you money in the long run. Check your farm today and start treating any infested plants.


Instruction: How I go know say cowpea aphid don attack my farm?

Response: Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects clustering on young shoots, flowers, and pods. They cause stunted growth, leaf curl, yellowing, and wilting. You may also see sticky honeydew and black sooty mould on the leaves. If you see these signs, act fast. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray.


Instruction: Is it true say cowpea aphids carry viruses?

Response: Yes, it is true. Cowpea aphids spread more than 30 plant viruses. Even a small infestation is a big threat. If you see them, act fast. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. This will help control the aphids and protect your plants. Check your farm this week and start treating any infested plants.


Instruction: What natural enemies of cowpea aphids should I protect?

Response: Ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps feed on cowpea aphids. Protect them by avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides. Use neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray instead. This will help control the aphids naturally. Check your farm today and see if you have any of these natural enemies.


Instruction: How can I reduce cowpea aphid pressure without spending much?

Response: Intercrop your cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio. This will reduce aphid pressure. Also, plant early to escape peak aphid populations. Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. These practices are cost-effective and will help protect your crop. Start planning your planting this week.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves don get black mould. Why?

Response: This could be because of cowpea aphids. They produce sticky honeydew which encourages black sooty mould to grow on leaves. Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects on your plants. If you see them, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. This will help control the aphids and the mould. Check your farm today.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cowpea to avoid aphids?

Response: Plant your cowpea early before the dry season. This will help you escape peak aphid populations. Also, intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. This will reduce aphid pressure. Start planning your planting this week to avoid aphid infestations.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are staying small and bushy with yellow leaves. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will never recover, so remove them immediately. Plant resistant varieties next season like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause groundnut plant wey no dey grow well, leaf don turn yellow, and look like bush?

Response: That is groundnut rosette disease. It is a deadly virus spread by aphids. There is no cure, so remove the infected plants now. For next planting, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 or RG 1 series.


Instruction: I planted groundnut but the plants are not growing tall. The leaves are yellow and bunched together. What is this problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. Infected plants will not recover, so remove them immediately. Plant early next season at the start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are stunted and have mottled leaves. What is the cause and what should I do?

Response: That is groundnut rosette disease. It is a virus spread by aphids. There is no cure, so remove the infected plants now. Use insecticide seed treatment before planting next time to control aphids.


Instruction: What is the disease that makes groundnut plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves?

Response: That is groundnut rosette disease. It is a deadly virus spread by aphids. Infected plants will not recover, so remove them immediately. For next planting, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing well. The leaves are yellow and the plants are bushy. What is the problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. Infected plants will not recover, so remove them immediately. Plant early next season at the start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: Wetin be dis groundnut disease wey leaf don turn yellow and plant no dey grow tall?

Response: That is groundnut rosette disease. It is a deadly virus spread by aphids. There is no cure, so remove the infected plants now. Use insecticide seed treatment before planting next time to control aphids.


Instruction: What causes groundnut plants to have bunched, yellow leaves and stay small?

Response: That is groundnut rosette disease. It is a virus spread by aphids. Infected plants will not recover, so remove them immediately. For next planting, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 or RG 1 series.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are stunted and have mottled leaves. What is this disease and how do I stop it?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. There is no cure, so remove the infected plants now. Weed your farm well to reduce aphid habitats.


Instruction: What is the disease that makes groundnut plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves?

Response: That is groundnut rosette disease. It is a deadly virus spread by aphids. Infected plants will not recover, so remove them immediately. For next planting, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones.


Instruction: My friend, I just harvest my mangoes and now they turning black. What happen?

Response: Ah, my friend, this sound like anthracnose disease. The thing is, the fungus was already in the fruits when you pick them. Handle mangoes with care next time - no dropping them! Today, you can still use the good parts, but next time harvest carefully and store in a cool dry place right away.


Instruction: How can I prevent my mango trees from getting anthracnose disease?

Response: First thing first, prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Also, clean up fallen leaves and fruits regularly. During flowering, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride - follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat every 10 days during rainy season. This week, start by pruning any dead branches you see.


Instruction: What does mango anthracnose look like on leaves?

Response: On leaves, you'll see dark brown irregular spots. These spots are a sign the fungus is present. Check your trees today and if you see these spots, it's time to act. Remove affected leaves and start a spraying program with mancozeb or copper oxychloride.


Instruction: My mango flowers keep dying before fruits form. What is the problem?

Response: This could be blossom blight from anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers and kills them before fruit sets. To stop this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Today, check your trees and if flowers look infected, start spraying immediately.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: For most varieties, look for a slight colour change at the tip of the fruit. Harvest carefully - don't drop them! Remember, handling mangoes with care prevents anthracnose from entering wounds. This week, check your fruits and pick the ones showing that colour change.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause mango fruits to turn black after harvest?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose disease. The fungus was already in the fruit when you picked it. When the fruit ripens, the fungus spreads quickly. Handle fruits carefully next time - no dropping them! Today, use the good parts of the fruit, but next time harvest carefully and store in a cool dry place right away.


Instruction: What should I do with fallen leaves and fruits under my mango tree?

Response: You must remove them regularly. They carry fungal spores that cause anthracnose. Clean up the area under your tree this week. Also, avoid overhead irrigation which keeps leaves wet for too long - this encourages the disease.


Instruction: How often should I spray for anthracnose during the rainy season?

Response: You should spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride every 10 days during the rains. Start at flowering stage and keep going. But remember, follow the label instructions carefully. This week, check your spraying schedule and adjust if needed.


Instruction: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but turn black in 2 days after harvest. Why?

Response: This is anthracnose disease. The fungus was already inside the fruit when you picked it. When the fruit ripens, the fungus spreads quickly. Handle fruits with extreme care next time - no dropping them! Today, use the good parts of the fruit, but next time harvest carefully and store in a cool dry place right away.


Instruction: What can I do to improve air circulation in my mango orchard?

Response: Prune your trees after every harvest to remove dead wood. This opens up the canopy and improves air flow. Better air circulation helps prevent anthracnose. This week, start by pruning any dead branches you see in your orchard.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes that look like windows with light through them. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl — that is the clearest sign. First thing first, check 10-20 plants in your field early morning or evening. You can apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: I dey fear say my maize don spoil. I see small holes for dia leaves. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the maize whorl and feed at night. You will see wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Check your plants early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. You can use fine sand mixed with wood ash to treat it.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm from attacking my maize?

Response: The thing is, fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather. To prevent it, plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Also, intercropping maize with beans or soybean can reduce fall armyworm attack significantly. Always scout your field early morning or evening to catch the caterpillars early.


Instruction: What should I do if I find fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: If you find fall armyworm in your maize field, first thing first, check 10-20 plants in your field early morning or evening. Apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill the young caterpillars. For young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation, neem-based sprays work well. If the infestation is severe, you can use chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — always follow label dosage.


Instruction: My maize has fall armyworm. How can I treat it cheaply?

Response: For fall armyworm, you can use fine sand mixed with wood ash and apply it into the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars cheaply. Also, neem-based sprays work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Always scout your field early morning or evening to catch the caterpillars early.


Instruction: How do I know if my maize has fall armyworm?

Response: Fall armyworm caterpillars hide deep inside the maize whorl and feed mostly at night. Look for ragged irregular holes in leaves that look like windowpanes with a light through them. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like frass inside the whorl — that is the caterpillar droppings. Check your plants early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface.


Instruction: Can fall armyworm kill my maize crop?

Response: Yes, fall armyworm can cause serious damage to your maize crop if not controlled early. The caterpillars feed on the leaves and can destroy the plant if the infestation is severe. First thing first, scout your field early morning or evening to catch the caterpillars early. Apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: What is the best time to check for fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: The best time to check for fall armyworm is early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field. Look for ragged irregular holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like frass inside the whorl. If you find any signs, apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: How can I stop fall armyworm from spreading in my maize field?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather. To stop it from spreading, scout your field early morning or evening to catch the caterpillars early. Apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill the young caterpillars. Also, intercropping maize with beans or soybean can reduce fall armyworm attack significantly.


Instruction: What chemicals can I use to treat fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: For severe infestations, you can use chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — always follow label dosage. But first, try neem-based sprays for young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Also, apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill the young caterpillars. Scout your field early morning or evening to catch the caterpillars early.


Instruction: my friend, my cocoa pods don turn black like rotten thing, what I go do?

Response: My friend, this is black pod disease. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove all the black pods now and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Then prune your trees to let more air and light in. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: I just noticed some brown spots on my cocoa pods. What is happening and how do I stop it?

Response: Those brown spots are the start of black pod disease. This disease loves wet and humid conditions. The thing is, it spreads very fast. You must act quickly. Remove all infected pods and burn them. Then prune your trees to improve airflow. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: My cocoa farm is full of black pods. What is the best way to save my farm?

Response: Black pod disease is very serious. You must remove all infected pods immediately and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help reduce the humidity and stop the disease from spreading. Start today.


Instruction: I have black pod disease in my cocoa farm. What should I do to prevent it from spreading?

Response: First, remove all infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help reduce the humidity and stop the disease from spreading. Also, harvest your ripe pods every two weeks. Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection.


Instruction: I just found some black pods in my cocoa farm. What is the cause and how do I treat it?

Response: Those black pods are caused by black pod disease. It spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. Remove all infected pods immediately and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is the best way to treat this?

Response: Those black pods are caused by black pod disease. It spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. Remove all infected pods immediately and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: I have black pod disease in my cocoa farm. What should I do to prevent it from spreading?

Response: First, remove all infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help reduce the humidity and stop the disease from spreading. Also, harvest your ripe pods every two weeks. Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection.


Instruction: I just found some black pods in my cocoa farm. What is the cause and how do I treat it?

Response: Those black pods are caused by black pod disease. It spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. Remove all infected pods immediately and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is the best way to treat this?

Response: Those black pods are caused by black pod disease. It spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. Remove all infected pods immediately and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: I have black pod disease in my cocoa farm. What should I do to prevent it from spreading?

Response: First, remove all infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help reduce the humidity and stop the disease from spreading. Also, harvest your ripe pods every two weeks. Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection.


Instruction: What is the difference between cowpea aphids and other pests?

Response: My friend, cowpea aphids are small black or brown insects that cluster on young shoots. Unlike other pests, they suck sap and spread viruses. They also leave sticky honeydew that causes black mould. Check your plants today for any signs of these tiny pests.


Instruction: How cowpea aphids different from maize pests?

Response: Cowpea aphids are specific to cowpea plants, my friend. They don't bother maize. They cluster on young shoots and flowers, sucking sap and spreading viruses. If you see small black or brown insects on your cowpea, take action immediately.


Instruction: Why cowpea aphids more dangerous than other pests?

Response: The thing is, cowpea aphids are more dangerous because they spread over 30 plant viruses. Even a small infestation can cause big problems. They also weaken plants by sucking sap and causing stunted growth. Inspect your plants now and remove any infested parts.


Instruction: What is the difference between cowpea aphids and other insects on my farm?

Response: Cowpea aphids are small, shiny black or dark brown insects that cluster on young shoots and flowers. Unlike other insects, they suck sap and spread viruses. They also produce sticky honeydew that causes black mould. Check your cowpea plants today for any signs of these pests.


Instruction: How cowpea aphids compare to other pests in terms of damage?

Response: Cowpea aphids cause more damage than many other pests because they spread viruses and weaken plants by sucking sap. They also encourage black mould to grow on leaves, blocking sunlight. Inspect your plants now and take action if you see any signs of aphids.


Instruction: Why cowpea aphids more harmful than other pests on my farm?

Response: Cowpea aphids are more harmful because they spread viruses and weaken plants. They also produce sticky honeydew that causes black mould. Unlike other pests, they can quickly spread to the whole farm if not controlled. Check your plants today and remove any infested parts.


Instruction: How cowpea aphids different from other insects that attack cowpea?

Response: Cowpea aphids are small, shiny black or brown insects that cluster on young shoots and flowers. Unlike other insects, they suck sap and spread viruses. They also produce sticky honeydew that causes black mould. Inspect your plants now and take action if you see any signs of aphids.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause cowpea aphids be more dangerous for my farm?

Response: Cowpea aphids more dangerous because dem carry viruses and weaken plants. Dem also make sticky honeydew that cause black mould. If you see small black or brown insects on your cowpea, remove dem quick before dem spread.


Instruction: How cowpea aphids compare to other pests in terms of control?

Response: Cowpea aphids can be controlled with neem oil spray, garlic spray, or pyrethrin-based insecticide. Unlike other pests, they have natural enemies like ladybird beetles and parasitic wasps. Protect these natural enemies and use chemical options as a last resort.


Instruction: Why cowpea aphids more difficult to control than other pests?

Response: Cowpea aphids are more difficult to control because they spread viruses and reproduce quickly. However, you can manage them by intercropping with maize, planting early, and using natural enemies. Inspect your plants today and take action if you see any signs of aphids.


Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from ruining my harvest without spending too much money?

Response: My friend, first thing first, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. These cost the same as regular seeds but give better protection. Also, do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — excess nitrogen feeds the fungus. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your fields for any signs of disease and act fast if you see diamond-shaped lesions on the leaves.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange spots, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, those spots could be rice blast, a bad fungus. It loves cool nights and wet weather. The thing is, if you don't treat it early, it can destroy your harvest. Look for diamond-shaped spots with grey centers and brown edges. If you see them, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at once. Follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your fields and spray if you see any spots.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to prevent rice blast in my farm?

Response: The cheapest way is to plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57. Also, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately. This keeps the fungus from spreading. Do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting — proper spacing reduces disease pressure. Today, check your field spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How can I save my rice from blast disease without spending much?

Response: To save your rice, first, do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — excess nitrogen feeds the fungus. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and follow the label instructions carefully. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Today, check your fertilizer application and adjust if needed. Also, plan to burn the straw after harvest.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over, what is happening?

Response: This could be neck blast, the worst form of rice blast. It attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to fall over. The fungus thrives in cool nights and high humidity. To prevent this, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything. Today, check your fields for any signs of neck blast and spray if needed.


Instruction: What can I do to stop rice blast from spreading in my farm cheaply?

Response: To stop rice blast from spreading, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately. Also, do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting — proper spacing reduces disease pressure. Today, check your field water levels and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How can I treat rice blast without spending too much money?

Response: To treat rice blast, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. These are effective and affordable. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like NERICA series. These cost the same as regular seeds but give better protection. Today, check your fields for any signs of disease and spray if you see any spots.


Instruction: My rice leaves have diamond-shaped spots, how I go treat am?

Response: Ah, those spots are rice blast, a bad fungus. To treat it, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at once. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — excess nitrogen feeds the fungus. Use balanced NPK fertilizer. Today, check your fields and spray if you see any spots.


Instruction: What is the most cost-effective way to prevent rice blast?

Response: The most cost-effective way is to plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52. These cost the same as regular seeds but give better protection. Also, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately. This keeps the fungus from spreading. Today, check your field water levels and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How can I protect my rice from blast disease without spending much?

Response: To protect your rice, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Also, do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting — proper spacing reduces disease pressure. Today, plan to burn the straw after harvest and check your field spacing. Adjust if needed.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and sticky. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cowpea aphids. They suck sap and leave sticky honeydew which causes black mould. First thing first, check the underside of leaves and young shoots for tiny black or brown insects. If you see them, you must act now to stop them spreading.


Instruction: I dey see small small black insects for my cowpea farm. How I go know if dem be aphids?

Response: If dem small, shiny black or brown and dey cluster for young shoots, flowers or pods, na cowpea aphids. Dem dey suck sap and make leaves turn yellow. Check if leaves get sticky too — na sign of honeydew. If you confirm na dem, you must treat fast before dem spoil your farm.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting and the leaves are curling. What should I do immediately?

Response: This could be cowpea aphids. They suck sap and spread viruses. Check the plant carefully for tiny black or brown insects. If you find them, remove and destroy heavily infested parts right away. Then spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray to control them.


Instruction: I planted cowpea near my neighbour's farm that has aphids. Now my plants are struggling. What can I do?

Response: The thing is, aphids spread easily. Since your farm is downwind from an infested one, you must act fast. Check your plants for tiny black or brown insects. If you find them, remove and destroy the worst affected parts. Then spray neem oil with soap or garlic spray to control them.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have black mould and the plants are weak. What is causing this?

Response: This is likely from cowpea aphids. They leave sticky honeydew that causes black mould. Check for tiny black or brown insects on young shoots, flowers or pods. If you find them, remove and destroy the worst parts immediately. Then spray neem oil with soap or garlic spray to control them.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea flowers. They are making the plants weak. What should I do?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap and spread viruses. Remove and destroy the flowers with aphids right away. Then spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray to control them. This will help save your farm.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are not growing well and the leaves are sticky. What is the problem?

Response: This sounds like cowpea aphids. They suck sap and leave sticky honeydew. Check for tiny black or brown insects on young shoots, flowers or pods. If you find them, remove and destroy the worst parts. Then spray neem oil with soap or garlic spray to control them.


Instruction: I planted cowpea late this season. Now I see small black insects on the plants. What should I do?

Response: Late planting can make cowpea more vulnerable to aphids. Check if the insects are tiny and black or brown. If they are, remove and destroy the worst affected parts. Then spray neem oil with soap or garlic spray to control them. Next time, plant early to escape peak aphid populations.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and there are tiny black insects on the stems. What is happening?

Response: This is likely cowpea aphids. They suck sap and cause yellowing. Remove and destroy the worst affected parts immediately. Then spray neem oil with soap or garlic spray to control them. This will help your plants recover.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea pods. The plants are weak. What should I do?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap and spread viruses. Remove and destroy the pods with aphids right away. Then spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray to control them. This will help save your farm.


Instruction: How can I tell if my tomato plants have early blight or late blight?

Response: My friend, early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halos on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked greyish-green patches that turn brown fast. First thing first, check your lower leaves — early blight starts from the bottom. If you see these signs, remove and burn the bad leaves right away.


Instruction: Why does late blight spread faster than early blight in my farm?

Response: Late blight spreads like fire in wet, cool weather. It can destroy whole plants in days, especially after heavy rain. Early blight is bad but moves slower. This week, check your plants for greyish-green spots and act fast if you see them.


Instruction: Tomato blight don spoil my farm, wetin I go do?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. First, remove and burn any bad leaves or plants. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every 7 days. Also, water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. Today, check your plants and start removing the bad parts.


Instruction: What’s the difference between early blight and late blight in tomatoes?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halos on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked greyish-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread fast in wet weather. Today, check your plants and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: How can I stop tomato blight from spreading in my farm?

Response: Blight spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn any bad leaves or plants right away. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every 7 days. Also, water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. Today, check your plants and start removing the bad parts.


Instruction: Why is early blight worse on the lower leaves of my tomato plants?

Response: Early blight starts from the bottom because spores splash up from the soil. It attacks older leaves first. Late blight can hit any part of the plant. This week, check your lower leaves and remove any bad ones.


Instruction: How can I tell if my tomato plants have blight or just pests?

Response: Blight causes spots or patches on leaves, while pests like aphids leave tiny holes or sticky residue. Blight spots are usually brown or greyish-green. If you see these signs, remove and burn the bad leaves. Today, check your plants carefully.


Instruction: What’s the best way to prevent tomato blight in my farm?

Response: First, rotate your crops — don’t plant tomato in the same spot two seasons in a row. Plant on raised beds for good drainage. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Today, check your planting plan and make sure you’re rotating crops.


Instruction: How come my tomato plants get blight every rainy season?

Response: Blight loves wet, cool weather. It spreads fast when it rains a lot. To stop it, spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every 7 days. Also, water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves. This week, start spraying if you haven’t already.


Instruction: Why does late blight kill tomato plants so fast?

Response: Late blight spreads like fire in wet weather. It can destroy whole plants in days. Early blight is bad but moves slower. Today, check your plants for greyish-green spots and act fast if you see them.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have dark brown spots with yellow edges. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. The thing is, it starts on lower leaves and spreads upwards. First thing first, remove and burn those infected leaves today — don't compost them. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide next week if the weather stays wet.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis brown spots for my tomato leaves?

Response: Ah, those brown spots with rings could be early blight. It loves wet weather. The key is to keep leaves dry — water at the base only. Also, remove and burn any spotted leaves right away. No need to panic, but act fast!


Instruction: My tomato plants have grey-green patches that turn brown quickly. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal! This could be late blight, which spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected parts immediately — don't compost them. Then spray with a copper-based fungicide this week if rain is expected.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomatoes have blight or just normal leaf spots?

Response: Blight spots are different. Early blight has dark brown spots with rings and yellow edges. Late blight causes grey-green patches that turn brown quickly. If you see these, remove and burn infected leaves today to stop it spreading.


Instruction: What makes tomato leaves get brown spots with rings?

Response: Those ringed spots are early blight, caused by wet weather. It starts on lower leaves and spreads up. The best thing to do is remove and burn those leaves right away. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide next week if the weather stays wet.


Instruction: My tomato plant leaves wetin dey happen? They get brown spots and dry up fast.

Response: This could be blight, especially if the weather is wet. The brown spots with rings mean early blight. The thing is, it spreads fast. Remove and burn those leaves today — don't compost them. Then spray with a fungicide next week if rain keeps coming.


Instruction: What disease causes tomato leaves to turn brown and die quickly?

Response: If the brown spots appear quickly and turn grey-green before browning, it's likely late blight. This disease spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected parts immediately to stop it spreading further.


Instruction: How can I tell if my tomatoes have early blight?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow edges on older leaves. It starts from the bottom and moves up. The key is to remove and burn those leaves today — don't compost them. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide next week if the weather stays wet.


Instruction: What does late blight look like on tomato plants?

Response: Late blight causes grey-green patches that turn brown quickly. The thing is, it can destroy entire plants within days in wet weather. Remove and burn infected parts immediately — don't compost them. Then spray with a copper-based fungicide this week if rain is expected.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have brown spots with yellow edges. What should I do?

Response: This sounds like early blight. The thing is, it spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove and burn those infected leaves today — don't compost them. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide next week if the weather stays wet.


Instruction: My friend, my cocoa pods are turning black and rotting fast. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is black pod disease. It spreads like fire in wet weather. First thing first, pick all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground, I tell you.


Instruction: I just noticed some brown spots on my cocoa pods. Should I be worried?

Response: Yes, my friend, this is the start of black pod disease. It will spread fast if you don't act now. Pick the bad pods and throw them away far from your farm. Do this today, don't wait.


Instruction: My cocoa farm is full of wet leaves and shade. Is this making my pods rot?

Response: Yes, my friend, too much shade and wetness is like a party for black pod disease. Cut some branches to let light and air in. Do this this week, don't wait for the rain to stop.


Instruction: I see black pods on my cocoa trees. How do I stop this now?

Response: You must act fast, my friend. Pick all the bad pods and burn them. Then, spray copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold every 2 to 3 weeks during the rain. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting fast. What can I do to save my farm?

Response: My friend, you must remove all the bad pods now and burn them. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in. Do this this week, don't wait. It will help a lot.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cocoa pods to turn black and rot?

Response: It is black pod disease, my friend. It spreads fast in wet weather. Pick the bad pods and burn them. Do this today, don't wait. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in.


Instruction: I have black pod disease in my cocoa farm. What should I do immediately?

Response: You must remove all the bad pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, spray copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold every 2 to 3 weeks during the rain. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting quickly. How can I stop this now?

Response: My friend, you must act fast. Pick all the bad pods and burn them. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in. Do this this week, don't wait. It will help a lot.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. What should I do right now?

Response: This is black pod disease, my friend. It spreads fast in wet weather. Pick the bad pods and burn them. Do this today, don't wait. Also, prune your trees to let light and air in.


Instruction: My cocoa farm is full of bad pods. How can I save my trees?

Response: My friend, you must remove all the bad pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, spray copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold every 2 to 3 weeks during the rain. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: my groundnut leaves don turn yellow and bushy like dis

Response: My friend, this looks like groundnut rosette disease. It is very serious and spreads by tiny green aphids. First thing first, uproot and burn all infected plants now. Do not wait! Then plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones. Also, treat seeds with insecticide before planting next time.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing well, they are small and the leaves are yellow

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette virus. It is very dangerous, especially early in the season. Remove all infected plants immediately and burn them. Plant resistant varieties and treat seeds with insecticide before planting next time. Also, keep your farm very clean by weeding regularly.


Instruction: How can I stop my groundnut plants from getting this yellow bushy disease?

Response: The thing is, this disease is caused by tiny aphids. You must plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 or those in the RG 1 series. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Plant early at the start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations. Always keep your farm very clean by weeding well.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and bunched up, what is happening?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is very serious and spreads by aphids. Remove and burn all infected plants immediately. Do not wait! Plant resistant varieties and treat seeds with insecticide before planting next time. Also, keep your farm very clean by weeding regularly.


Instruction: What should I do if my groundnut plants are stunted and have yellow leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is very dangerous and spreads by aphids. Remove and burn all infected plants immediately. Do not wait! Plant resistant varieties and treat seeds with insecticide before planting next time. Also, keep your farm very clean by weeding regularly.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing well, they are small and the leaves are yellow and mottled

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is very serious and spreads by aphids. Remove and burn all infected plants immediately. Do not wait! Plant resistant varieties and treat seeds with insecticide before planting next time. Also, keep your farm very clean by weeding regularly.


Instruction: How can I prevent my groundnut from getting this yellow bushy disease?

Response: The thing is, this disease is caused by tiny aphids. You must plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or those in the RG 1 series. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Plant early at the start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations. Always keep your farm very clean by weeding well.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves don turn yellow and bushy like dis, wetin I go do?

Response: My friend, this looks like groundnut rosette disease. It is very serious and spreads by tiny green aphids. First thing first, uproot and burn all infected plants now. Do not wait! Then plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 or ask your extension officer for local ones. Also, treat seeds with insecticide before planting next time.


Instruction: What is causing my groundnut plants to stay small with yellow leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is very dangerous and spreads by aphids. Remove and burn all infected plants immediately. Do not wait! Plant resistant varieties and treat seeds with insecticide before planting next time. Also, keep your farm very clean by weeding regularly.


Instruction: How can I stop this yellow bushy disease in my groundnut?

Response: The thing is, this disease is caused by tiny aphids. You must plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or those in the RG 1 series. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Plant early at the start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations. Always keep your farm very clean by weeding well.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have yellow and green patches. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is cassava mosaic disease. The virus spreads by whiteflies. First thing first, uproot and burn those infected plants right away. Then spray neem oil to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant resistant varieties like TME 419. Start today by checking your farm for more infected plants.


Instruction: How I go treat cassava mosaic when my farm don spoil?

Response: No need to panic. First, remove and burn all infected plants immediately. Then, use neem-based sprays to control the whiteflies spreading the disease. Next time, plant disease-free stems and choose resistant varieties. Start by checking your farm for more infected plants today.


Instruction: What can I do to stop cassava mosaic from spreading to my healthy plants?

Response: The thing is, you must act fast. Remove and destroy any infected plants right away. Then, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Always plant disease-free stems and choose resistant varieties. Start by inspecting your farm for any signs of the disease today.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and have strange patterns. What is the solution?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease. You must remove and burn the infected plants immediately. Then, spray neem oil to control the whiteflies spreading the virus. Next time, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. Start by checking your farm for more infected plants today.


Instruction: How do I prevent cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: The best way is to plant disease-free stems from healthy plants. Also, choose resistant varieties like TME 419. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Start by inspecting your stems before planting.


Instruction: What should I do if I see yellow patches on my cassava leaves?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease. Uproot and burn the infected plants immediately. Then, spray neem oil to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant resistant varieties. Start by checking your farm for more infected plants today.


Instruction: My cassava plants have small, deformed tubers. What is the cause and solution?

Response: This is likely cassava mosaic disease. The virus causes small, deformed tubers. Remove and burn infected plants immediately. Control whiteflies with neem sprays. Plant resistant varieties next time. Start by inspecting your farm for more infected plants today.


Instruction: How can I stop the spread of cassava mosaic in my farm?

Response: First, remove and destroy all infected plants immediately. Then, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Always plant disease-free stems and choose resistant varieties. Start by checking your farm for any signs of the disease today.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage cassava mosaic disease?

Response: The best way is to remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Control whiteflies with neem sprays. Plant disease-free stems and choose resistant varieties. Never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Start by inspecting your farm for any signs of the disease today.


Instruction: How I go prevent cassava mosaic when I don plant yet?

Response: First, get disease-free stems from healthy plants. Choose resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Never use stems from a farm that had mosaic. Start by sourcing your stems from a trusted supplier.


Instruction: When should I plant groundnut to avoid rosette disease?

Response: My friend, plant your groundnut very early at the start of rains. This helps escape the worst aphid populations that come later. Check with your neighbours to know exactly when to start.


Instruction: What time of day should I harvest groundnuts?

Response: Harvest in the dry season before heavy rains come. Wet pods can get aflatoxin which is very dangerous. Pick them in the morning when the weather is cool.


Instruction: My groundnut don dey small small, no get leaf. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: This could be groundnut rosette disease. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it will never recover. Remove the plant immediately to stop the disease spreading. Next time, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: When should I apply fertilizer to my groundnut?

Response: Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen, so no need for much fertilizer. Just add a little compost at planting time. Too much nitrogen will give you leaves not pods. This is very important to remember.


Instruction: What is the best time to weed my groundnut farm?

Response: Weed early and often. Weeds host aphids which spread rosette disease. First thing first, clear all weeds before planting. Then weed again 3 weeks after planting. Keep it clean.


Instruction: How long after planting should I expect to harvest groundnut?

Response: Groundnuts take about 3 months to mature. But harvest before heavy rains come. Wet pods can get aflatoxin which is very dangerous. Mark your calendar now.


Instruction: When should I treat my groundnut seeds with insecticide?

Response: Treat your seeds before planting. This controls aphids which spread rosette disease. Follow the label instructions carefully. Do this now before you plant.


Instruction: What time should I plant groundnut for best yield?

Response: Plant at the very start of rains. This helps your groundnut escape the worst aphid populations. Check with your neighbours to know exactly when to start. This is very important.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves don turn yellow and bushy. How I go treat am?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. I tell you, once a plant gets it, it will never recover. Remove the plant immediately to stop the disease spreading. Next time, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: When should I dry my harvested groundnuts?

Response: Dry your groundnuts immediately after harvesting. Moisture above 9 percent causes aflatoxin which is very dangerous. Spread them in the sun and turn often. Do this right away.


Instruction: When should I plant my groundnut to avoid groundnut rosette disease?

Response: My friend, first thing first — plant your groundnut at the very start of the rains. This way you escape the peak aphid populations that come later. They spread the deadly groundnut rosette virus. If you plant early, your crop will grow strong before the aphids become too many. Check with your extension officer for the best planting dates in your area.


Instruction: Is it better to plant groundnut early or late in the season to prevent disease?

Response: Always plant early at the start of rains. The thing is, groundnut rosette spreads mostly through aphids which peak later. Early planting lets your crop grow strong before the aphids become too many. This way, your plants can resist better. So don't wait, start planting as soon as the rains begin.


Instruction: My groundnut don spoil, leaves turn yellow and plant stay small. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease, my friend. It's caused by a virus spread by tiny green aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it will never recover. You must remove the infected plants immediately to stop the disease spreading. Then plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23 next time.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest groundnut to avoid aflatoxin?

Response: Harvest your groundnut before the heavy rains arrive. Wet pods easily get aflatoxin, which is very dangerous. Once the pods mature, don't wait for them to dry on the plant. Pick them and spread them to dry properly. Make sure the moisture is below 9 percent before storing.


Instruction: How long after planting should I expect to harvest my groundnut?

Response: Groundnut takes about 3-4 months to mature, depending on the variety. The thing is, you must harvest before heavy rains come. Wet pods easily get aflatoxin, which is very dangerous. So check your pods regularly as they approach maturity. When the leaves turn yellow and the pods sound crisp when you shake them, it's time to harvest.


Instruction: When should I apply fertilizer to my groundnut farm?

Response: Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen from the air, so you don't need much fertilizer. The thing is, too much nitrogen makes the plant grow lots of leaves but few pods. Apply a balanced fertilizer like NPK 20:10:10 at planting time only. No need for more later. Just 100-150kg per hectare is enough.


Instruction: My neighbor says I should plant groundnut late to avoid pests. Is this correct?

Response: No, my friend, that is not correct. Planting late actually makes your crop more vulnerable to groundnut rosette disease. The virus spreads through aphids which peak later in the season. Planting early at the start of rains lets your crop grow strong before the aphids become too many. So don't delay, plant early this season.


Instruction: How often should I check my groundnut plants for disease?

Response: Check your groundnut plants at least once a week, especially in the first two months. Look for small, bushy plants with yellow or mottled leaves. These are signs of groundnut rosette disease. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it will never recover. So remove infected plants immediately to stop the disease spreading.


Instruction: When should I start weeding my groundnut farm?

Response: Start weeding your groundnut farm as soon as the plants are about 10cm tall. The thing is, weeds host aphids which spread groundnut rosette disease. Weed at least twice during the growing season. The first weeding should be about 3-4 weeks after planting. Keep your farm clean to protect your crop.


Instruction: Is there a specific time of day to apply insecticide to control aphids on groundnut?

Response: Apply insecticide early in the morning or late in the afternoon when temperatures are cooler. The thing is, aphids are most active during the day. Spraying at cooler times helps the insecticide work better. But remember, prevention is better than cure. Use resistant varieties and control weeds to reduce aphid numbers. Always follow the label instructions carefully when using any chemical.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves don turn yellow and get small. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: My friend, this could be cowpea aphids. They suck the sap from your plants, causing yellowing and stunted growth. Check the undersides of leaves for small black or brown insects. If you see them, act fast to save your crop.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea flowers. How I go treat am?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids, and they can cause big problems. First thing first, remove and destroy the heavily infested parts of your plants. Then, you can make a neem oil spray mixed with soap or use garlic spray. If the infestation is bad, you might need to use a pyrethrin-based insecticide. Always follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I plant cowpea next to my neighbour's farm. Now my cowpea don spoil. What I go do?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is a common problem. Cowpea aphids can spread quickly from one farm to another. Next time, avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. For now, remove the badly affected plants and spray the rest with neem oil mixed with soap to control the aphids.


Instruction: I want to plant cowpea. When be best time to plant am?

Response: The best time to plant cowpea is early in the season to avoid the peak aphid populations that come in the dry season. Planting early gives your crop a better chance to grow strong before the aphids become a big problem.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves get sticky and black. Why this happen?

Response: The sticky stuff is called honeydew, and it's produced by cowpea aphids. The black stuff is sooty mould, which grows on the honeydew and blocks sunlight. To fix this, first remove the badly affected leaves. Then, spray the rest of the plant with neem oil mixed with soap to control the aphids.


Instruction: I hear cowpea good for the soil. How?

Response: Yes, my friend, cowpea is very good for the soil. It fixes nitrogen in the soil, which improves fertility for the next crop you plant on that land. So, planting cowpea is like giving your soil a boost for the future.


Instruction: I see small ladybird beetles on my cowpea. Should I kill them?

Response: No, no, no! Those ladybird beetles are your friends. They eat cowpea aphids and help control the infestation. Protect them and they will help you protect your crop.


Instruction: I want to plant cowpea and maize together. How I go do am?

Response: That's a good idea, my friend. Intercropping cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio can help reduce aphid pressure. Just make sure to plant the maize first, then add the cowpea seedlings when the maize is about 30cm tall.


Instruction: I no dey use chemical for my farm. How I go control cowpea aphids?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. You can make your own spray using neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. These natural remedies can help control the aphids without using chemicals. Just make sure to remove and destroy the heavily infested parts of your plants first.


Instruction: When should I apply fungicide to prevent neck blast in my rice?

Response: My friend, for neck blast prevention, you must spray fungicide at the boot stage, just before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything — if you spray too early or too late, it won't work as well. Check your rice carefully this week and if you see the boot stage starting, prepare your fungicide.


Instruction: Wetin de cause my rice plant to fall over?

Response: That is neck blast, a very bad disease. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk and causes it to fall over. The thing is, this happens in cool nights with high humidity. Next time, spray fungicide at boot stage to prevent it. This week, check your field and remove any fallen plants to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: At what stage should I spray fungicide to control rice blast?

Response: First thing first, if you see diamond-shaped lesions on leaves, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole immediately. For neck blast prevention, spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Do not wait until the disease appears — timing is critical. Check your rice this week and prepare your fungicide if you see the boot stage starting.


Instruction: When is the best time to burn rice straw after harvest?

Response: The best time is right after harvest. Burning rice straw destroys fungal spores that survive in crop residues. Do not leave the straw in the field for too long, as it can spread disease to the next crop. This week, if you haven't already, gather the straw and burn it safely.


Instruction: How often should I check my rice field for signs of blast disease?

Response: You should check your rice field at least once a week, especially during the growing season. Look for diamond-shaped lesions on leaves and check the base of the grain-bearing stalk for neck blast. The earlier you detect the disease, the better you can control it. This week, take a walk through your field and inspect your rice carefully.


Instruction: When should I apply nitrogen fertilizer to my rice?

Response: Apply nitrogen fertilizer in small doses, following the recommended schedule. Never over-apply nitrogen — excess nitrogen feeds the fungus that causes blast disease. Split your nitrogen application into at least two doses: one at transplanting and another at tillering. This week, check your fertilizer supply and plan your application carefully.


Instruction: Wetin I go do if I see small diamond-shaped spots on my rice leaves?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Those spots are the first sign of rice blast disease. Spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide immediately, following the label instructions carefully. Also, check your field for proper water levels and spacing. This week, treat the affected plants and monitor the rest of your field closely.


Instruction: At what time of day should I inspect my rice field for disease?

Response: The best time to inspect your rice field is in the morning, especially if there has been dew overnight. The cool, humid conditions are when blast disease thrives. Look for diamond-shaped lesions on leaves and check the base of the grain-bearing stalk. This week, wake up early and take a walk through your field to inspect your rice.


Instruction: When should I transplant rice seedlings to avoid disease?

Response: Transplant rice seedlings when they are about 25-30 days old. Make sure to maintain proper spacing between seedlings to reduce disease pressure. Do not overcrowd them. Also, maintain proper water levels in the paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately. This week, prepare your field and transplant your seedlings carefully.


Instruction: How often should I rotate my rice field with other crops to prevent blast disease?

Response: Rotate your rice field with other crops every 2-3 years. This helps break the cycle of the fungus that causes blast disease. Choose crops that are not susceptible to the same diseases, like legumes or vegetables. This week, plan your crop rotation for the next season to keep your field healthy.


Instruction: How do I know if my cocoa pods have black pod disease?

Response: My friend, check your pods for brown or black rotting patches. This is black pod disease. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, pick and bury or burn any infected pods deep. Don't leave them on the ground.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause cocoa pods to rot?

Response: Ah, that's black pod disease. It's caused by a fungus that loves wet, humid weather. It starts with brown or black patches on the pods. To stop it, remove and bury or burn any infected pods. Also, prune your trees to let in more air and light.


Instruction: What should I do if my cocoa farm is shaded and humid?

Response: Shade and humidity make black pod disease worse. Prune your trees to let in more light and air. This helps dry out the fungus. Also, harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks. Don't let them overstay on the tree.


Instruction: How often should I prune my cocoa trees?

Response: Prune your cocoa trees after each harvest. This lets light and air into the canopy. It also helps stop black pod disease. Remember, good airflow keeps your farm healthy. Start pruning this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: Can I leave diseased pods on the ground?

Response: No, no, no! Never leave diseased pods on the ground. One infected pod can spread to 10 others. Bury or burn them deep. This stops the fungus from spreading. Do this today if you see any infected pods.


Instruction: What is sanitation harvesting?

Response: Sanitation harvesting is when you remove diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood all at once. This stops the fungus from spreading. Do this every time you harvest. It keeps your farm clean and healthy.


Instruction: How do I prevent black pod disease?

Response: To prevent black pod disease, keep your farm clean. Remove any infected pods right away. Prune your trees to let in more air and light. Also, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why is it important to harvest ripe cocoa pods every 2 weeks?

Response: Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection. They can get diseased and spread the fungus to other pods. Harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks. This keeps your farm healthy and your harvest safe.


Instruction: What should I do during the rainy season to protect my cocoa?

Response: During the rainy season, black pod disease spreads fast. Apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow. And always remove any infected pods right away. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I improve the airflow in my cocoa farm?

Response: Prune your trees to let in more light and air. This helps dry out the fungus that causes black pod disease. Also, remove any deadwood or overgrown branches. Start pruning this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: What is the difference between healthy plantain leaves and leaves infected with bunchy top?

Response: My friend, healthy plantain leaves grow long and broad, but bunchy top makes leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top. Infected leaves also show dark green streaks and dots that turn yellow then brown. If you see these signs, act fast — chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus spreading. This week, check all your plants for these symptoms.


Instruction: How can I tell if my plantain has bunchy top or just lacks nutrients?

Response: The thing is, bunchy top shows dark green streaks and dots on leaves that turn yellow then brown. Nutrient deficiency just makes leaves pale or yellow all over. If it's bunchy top, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat right away. Today, look closely at your plantain leaves to see which problem you have.


Instruction: Why should I space my plantain plants 3m by 3m?

Response: Spacing plantain 3m by 3m allows good airflow between plants, which helps prevent diseases like bunchy top. It also makes harvesting easier. If your plants are too close, they struggle to grow properly. This week, measure your spacing and thin out any crowded plants.


Instruction: How is bunchy top different from other plantain diseases?

Response: Bunchy top is caused by a virus that makes leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top, with dark green streaks and dots. Unlike other diseases, there is no cure — the plant is a complete loss. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, inspect your plants for these signs.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause plantain bunchy top?

Response: Banana aphids carry the bunchy top virus from infected to healthy plants. The virus makes leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top, with dark green streaks and dots. There is no cure, so chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat right away. This week, check your plants for aphids and symptoms.


Instruction: How does bunchy top affect plantain growth compared to other diseases?

Response: Bunchy top stops plantain from growing properly and the plant will never produce a bunch. Other diseases may reduce yield but not kill the plant completely. If you see bunchy top symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, look for dark green streaks and dots on leaves.


Instruction: Why is it important to only plant certified clean plantain suckers?

Response: Bunchy top virus travels inside suckers with no visible signs. Planting infected suckers spreads the virus to your whole farm. Always plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. This week, check your sucker source to make sure they are disease-free.


Instruction: How can I compare the cost of treating bunchy top with preventing it?

Response: There is no cure for bunchy top, so treating it is a waste of money. Prevention is cheaper and easier — plant certified clean suckers and inspect plants regularly. If you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, check your plants for bunchy top signs.


Instruction: What is the difference between mulching plantain and not mulching?

Response: Mulching plantain retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and keeps the soil cool. Without mulch, the soil dries out faster and weeds compete with your plants. Heavy mulching is especially important for plantain, which needs lots of moisture. This week, add mulch around your plantain plants if you haven't already.


Instruction: How does bunchy top compare to other plantain pests?

Response: Bunchy top is caused by a virus and there is no cure, unlike pests like nematodes or weevils which can be controlled. The moment you see bunchy top symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, inspect your plants for dark green streaks and dots on leaves.


Instruction: Why cowpea and maize go well together?

Response: My friend, cowpea and maize are good friends in the farm. When you plant 4 rows of maize for every 1 row of cowpea, the maize shields the cowpea from strong winds that carry aphids. This way, your cowpea gets protection and your soil gets more nitrogen. Try this next season and see the difference!


Instruction: How cowpea different from groundnut when it come to aphids?

Response: Cowpea and groundnut both get aphids, but cowpea is more vulnerable. Aphids love cowpea so much they can destroy the whole farm if you don't watch. Groundnut has some resistance, but cowpea needs more care. First thing first, check your cowpea plants often for those shiny black bugs.


Instruction: If I plant cowpea and groundnut together, which one will get more aphids?

Response: If you plant cowpea and groundnut together, the cowpea will get more aphids. Aphids love cowpea more than groundnut. To protect your cowpea, plant it with maize instead. The maize will shield the cowpea from wind-borne aphids. Check your plants regularly and remove any infested parts immediately.


Instruction: Why cowpea better than maize for soil?

Response: Cowpea is a special crop because it fixes nitrogen in the soil. This means it makes the soil richer for the next crop. Maize takes a lot of nutrients from the soil, but cowpea gives back. Plant cowpea and your soil will be healthier for the next planting season.


Instruction: How cowpea and cocoa different when it come to pests?

Response: Cowpea and cocoa have different pests. Cowpea struggles with aphids, while cocoa has to deal with capsid bugs and mirids. Aphids are small black or brown insects that suck sap from cowpea leaves and spread viruses. To control them, use neem oil spray or garlic spray. Always check your cowpea plants regularly for signs of aphids.


Instruction: If I plant cowpea and cocoa together, which one will get more pests?

Response: If you plant cowpea and cocoa together, the cowpea will get more pests, especially aphids. Aphids love cowpea and can quickly spread viruses. Cocoa has its own pests like capsid bugs. To protect your cowpea, plant it with maize instead. The maize will act as a barrier against wind-borne aphids. Check your plants often and remove any infested parts.


Instruction: Why cowpea better than plantain for soil?

Response: Cowpea is better for the soil than plantain because it fixes nitrogen. This means it makes the soil richer for the next crop. Plantain takes a lot of nutrients from the soil but doesn't give back like cowpea does. Plant cowpea and your soil will be healthier for the next planting season.


Instruction: How cowpea and plantain different when it come to pests?

Response: Cowpea and plantain have different pests. Cowpea struggles with aphids, while plantain has to deal with pests like banana weevils and nematodes. Aphids are small black or brown insects that suck sap from cowpea leaves and spread viruses. To control them, use neem oil spray or garlic spray. Always check your cowpea plants regularly for signs of aphids.


Instruction: If I plant cowpea and plantain together, which one will get more pests?

Response: If you plant cowpea and plantain together, the cowpea will get more pests, especially aphids. Aphids love cowpea and can quickly spread viruses. Plantain has its own pests like banana weevils. To protect your cowpea, plant it with maize instead. The maize will act as a barrier against wind-borne aphids. Check your plants often and remove any infested parts.


Instruction: Why cowpea better than cassava for soil?

Response: Cowpea is better for the soil than cassava because it fixes nitrogen. This means it makes the soil richer for the next crop. Cassava takes a lot of nutrients from the soil but doesn't give back like cowpea does. Plant cowpea and your soil will be healthier for the next planting season.


Instruction: My mango tree leaves have brown spots. What is happening?

Response: My friend, those brown spots on your mango leaves are likely mango anthracnose. This fungus loves wet weather. First thing first, remove all those spotted leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. They carry the disease. Also, avoid watering from above to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. What is the problem?

Response: Ah, this is the work of mango anthracnose. It attacks flowers and stops fruit from setting. You need to spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your tree to improve air flow.


Instruction: I harvested mangoes that looked fine but turned black in 2 days. Why?

Response: This is classic anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit but you couldn't see it. Harvest carefully from now on — no dropping or bruising the fruits. Handle them gently and store in a cool, dry place right away.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dark spots on my mango fruits?

Response: That dark spots na mango anthracnose. The fungus enter the fruit before you even see it. Harvest with care, no need to drop them. After harvest, keep the fruits in a cool, dry place to slow the disease.


Instruction: My mango tree has black spots on leaves and flowers. Is this serious?

Response: Yes, it is serious. This is mango anthracnose, a fungus that spreads fast in wet weather. Remove all infected leaves and flowers. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rain.


Instruction: I see black patches on my mango leaves. What should I do?

Response: Those black patches are mango anthracnose. The fungus spreads easily in wet conditions. Prune your tree to improve air circulation. Also, remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. They carry the disease.


Instruction: My mango fruits have sunken black spots. What is this?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit before you harvested it. Handle fruits carefully from now on. No dropping or bruising. Store them in a cool, dry place immediately after harvest.


Instruction: Why my mango flowers keep dying before fruit set?

Response: That is mango anthracnose. It attacks flowers and prevents fruit from forming. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your tree to improve air flow.


Instruction: I harvested mangoes that were fine but turned black quickly. How to prevent this?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Harvest carefully, no dropping or bruising. Handle fruits gently and store in a cool, dry place right after harvest.


Instruction: My mango tree leaves have brown spots and flowers are dying. What can I do?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. Remove all infected leaves and flowers. Spray with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rain. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How is fall armyworm different from other caterpillars attacking my maize?

Response: My friend, fall armyworm hides deep inside the maize whorl and feeds at night. Other caterpillars you see on leaves are different. The thing is, fall armyworm leaves ragged holes that look like windowpanes with light through them. Check for wet sawdust-like droppings in the whorl — that's the clearest sign. Scout early morning or evening when they come out. Today, go check 10-20 plants in your field.


Instruction: What makes fall armyworm spread so fast in my maize field?

Response: Ah, fall armyworm spreads like fire in warm weather because one female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs! The caterpillars grow fast and eat a lot. First thing first, scout your field early morning or evening. If you see signs, act quickly. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it in the whorl to kill young caterpillars. Do this today if you see any signs.


Instruction: Why is intercropping maize with beans better than planting maize alone?

Response: Intercropping maize with beans or soybean is a smart move because it reduces fall armyworm attacks. The beans confuse the moths and they lay fewer eggs. Plus, beans fix nitrogen in the soil, which helps your maize grow better. If you haven't done it yet, plan to intercrop in your next planting season. Today, check your maize for any signs of fall armyworm.


Instruction: How does fall armyworm damage compare to maize weevil damage?

Response: Fall armyworm and maize weevil are very different pests. Fall armyworm caterpillars eat the leaves and hide inside the whorl, while maize weevil attacks the grains in storage. Fall armyworm causes damage while the maize is growing, while weevils cause post-harvest losses. To avoid weevils, harvest your maize promptly when it's dry. Today, check your maize for fall armyworm signs.


Instruction: Why is it important to scout for fall armyworm early in the morning or evening?

Response: Scouting early morning or evening is key because that's when fall armyworm caterpillars come out to feed. During the day, they hide deep inside the whorl. If you check at the right time, you can see them and act fast. Today, go to your field early morning or evening and check 10-20 plants. Look for ragged holes and wet sawdust-like droppings.


Instruction: How does neem-based spray compare to chemical sprays for fall armyworm?

Response: Neem-based sprays work well on young caterpillars, especially in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Chemical sprays like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos are stronger but must be used carefully. Always follow the label instructions. If you see small caterpillars, try neem spray first. Today, check your maize and decide if you need to treat it.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause am when my maize leaf get ragged holes like windowpane?

Response: Ah, my friend, that's fall armyworm! The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and eat the leaves, leaving ragged holes. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings in the whorl — that's the clearest sign. Scout early morning or evening when they come out. Today, go check your maize and if you see signs, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it in the whorl.


Instruction: How does planting maize at the right time help with fall armyworm control?

Response: Planting at the right time helps you avoid peak moth migration season. If you plant too early or too late, your maize might be more susceptible to fall armyworm attacks. Check your local planting calendar and plan accordingly. Today, if you see any signs of fall armyworm, act quickly to control it.


Instruction: Why is it better to apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits rather than all at once?

Response: Applying nitrogen fertilizer in two splits ensures your maize gets a steady supply of nutrients. Half at planting and half at knee height helps the plant grow strong and healthy. This practice also reduces the risk of nitrogen loss. Today, check your maize and if it's at knee height, apply the second split of nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: How does fall armyworm infestation compare to maize streak virus?

Response: Fall armyworm and maize streak virus are very different. Fall armyworm is a caterpillar that eats the leaves, while maize streak virus is caused by insects that spread the virus. Fall armyworm leaves ragged holes, while maize streak virus causes yellow streaks on the leaves. Today, check your maize for any signs of fall armyworm and act if you see any.


Instruction: When should I plant my cassava?

Response: My friend, first thing first: plant your cassava at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants the best chance to grow strong. Today, check your local weather forecast and mark your planting date.


Instruction: Wetin be di best time to weed my cassava farm?

Response: For cassava, you must weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, the plants will shade out most weeds by themselves. This week, set aside time to weed your young cassava plants.


Instruction: How long does it take for cassava to mature?

Response: Cassava can be ready to harvest between 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you want to use it for. Today, check the variety you planted and note the expected harvest time.


Instruction: When should I apply fertilizer to my cassava?

Response: Cassava responds well to potassium fertilizer, especially in poor soils. Apply it at planting time. This week, visit your local agro-dealer to get the right fertilizer for your cassava.


Instruction: Is there a specific time to mound soil before planting cassava?

Response: Yes, mound the soil before you plant your cassava. This improves drainage and helps the tubers grow bigger. Today, prepare your planting area by mounding the soil.


Instruction: When should I harvest my cassava for best quality?

Response: Harvest time depends on your variety and use. For fresh consumption, harvest between 9 to 12 months. For processing, wait until 12 to 18 months. This week, observe your plants and plan your harvest.


Instruction: How often should I check my cassava for mosaic disease?

Response: Check your cassava plants regularly, especially during the growing season. Look for yellow and green mosaic patterns, curling, and distorted leaves. Today, inspect your plants carefully.


Instruction: When is the best time to remove infected cassava plants?

Response: Remove and destroy infected plants immediately you see mosaic disease. This stops the whiteflies from spreading the virus further. This week, check your farm and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: Wetin be di best time to use neem spray for whiteflies?

Response: Use neem-based sprays as soon as you see whiteflies on your cassava. This helps control them before they spread mosaic disease. Today, prepare your neem spray and apply it to your plants.


Instruction: When should I plant resistant cassava varieties?

Response: Plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572 at the start of the rainy season, just like any other cassava. This week, visit your local market or agro-dealer to get disease-resistant stems.


Instruction: Hello, I need help with my mango trees

Response: Hello my friend! I’m FarmBot. I can help you with your mango trees. Tell me what’s happening with them.


Instruction: What is mango anthracnose?

Response: My friend, mango anthracnose is a disease caused by a fungus that attacks leaves, flowers, and fruits. On leaves, it makes dark brown spots. On fruits, it causes sunken black spots that grow bigger after harvest. This is why your mangoes might look fine on the tree but turn black after picking.


Instruction: How can I stop mango anthracnose from spreading?

Response: First thing first, prune your mango trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Also, pick up and throw away any fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. These carry the disease. And no need to panic, but do this today or this week.


Instruction: My mango leaves have dark spots, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, my friend, those dark spots could be mango anthracnose. It’s a fungus that loves wet weather. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What should I do to prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: To prevent mango anthracnose, prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation—it keeps the leaves wet for too long. Do these things this week.


Instruction: How can I tell when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: For most mango varieties, the tip of the fruit turns slightly different in colour when it’s ready. Check your trees and harvest carefully—don’t drop the fruits, as bruises let the fungus in. Handle them gently and store them in a cool, dry place right away.


Instruction: My mango fruits are getting black spots, how I go treat am?

Response: My friend, those black spots are likely mango anthracnose. To treat it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your trees and remove fallen leaves and fruits to stop the disease from spreading.