[flow_default] Transcription: 01_image-based_lighting_06.json

transcriptions/01_image-based_lighting_06.json

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+{
+  "audio_file": "01_image-based_lighting_06.wav",
+  "text": "The exciting thing about this HDR setup is this. By changing one image, we can update the whole setup. Look at this. Let's select any of the planes and then come over to the shader editor. Remember we have grouped this source image with a few other nodes into the HDRi group. Tab to get in. Here are the nodes. Okay. Then I'll zoom out a bit in the viewport so we can see all of LED screens as if. And then we can change the highlights mask and everything will be updated because this group is shared by all of the objects. This is pretty cool already. Or we can tweak the HDR multiplier let's say and the base level to make it slightly less contrasty something like that we can change any of these things and the changes will be propagated across all the objects that share that group. All right, back into the camera view. There is slightly less range now, but it still looks good. Pretty believable. What I'll do to compensate for the reduced side lighting is go down the HDRI left material settings and crank up the multiplier to 15. Now the same for the right panel. 15, okay. That's all good, but what's most exciting is that we can swap this source image to something else and it can be done literally in a few clicks. First, tab into the group, into the HGRI group, I mean. By the way, you can see that this group is shared by four objects, all of our LED panels basically. So let's press tab, gonna give it a higher HR multiplier as it's still a bit too dim. Then watch this. We can go ahead and just swap our source image with any other Night City image. Open. Can you guess which one I'll choose once more? Can you guess? Right. It's number 12. If it's number 12 if it was your number contact me. And voila, the whole setup got updated. All of the screens, whoa, that is so cool I think. Just amazing. Then two things you wanna tweak after changing the source is the base exposure or level and the HDR multiplier because each photo is different. Each image may require a little bit of tweaking because the levels are different and so on. It's the fun and the easy part. You'll love it. For this one, I'll go with a base level of 0.8 and multiplier of, I don't know, 5. Anything that looks good to you basically. And so we updated the whole setup. Very easy indeed. How about something else? Let's click open again. How about the image number 10 perhaps? By the way, all of these images are licensed under public domain license and can be found in the course resources if you want to try one of these. Here I want to isolate the long shutter traffic and the window lights as well with the mask so only these elements get realistically more powerful compared to the darker base. Do I want to crank up the HDR multiplier? Probably not like that. I'm gonna hit M to mute this note for a quick comparison. Yeah, HDRization makes it way more realistic. Depending on the eye adaptation and your creative goal, I think there could be even more range involved if we dim down the base level like that. Feel free to try anything else. Maybe your own images there. You can find some cool stuff on Unsplash or Pixabay. It's a whole lot of fun to just play with it, try it out. While researching this tutorial, I was so engrossed in this part of the workflow. I spent, I don't know, a million hours playing with it. Okay, how about zero too? Whoa, this one looks interesting. A few points of light forming the clusters scattered around. Again, notice how it would fall apart without the HDR booster. That is quite a nice night time I'll go with... number 5 for the rest of the video though. It has a good constellation of lights in the background while having a low-key look about it. The color palette is fairly neutral with cool tints about it but also a few red and beige accents. I'm repositioning the background to find the nicest placement I guess. And yeah, this is gonna be our style. We will roll with this image, a fitting our image-based lighting setup for the rest of the tutorial and we will try to squeeze most of the cinematic juice out of it. What we can do now is fine-tune the contrast levels or the range. I have a feeling we can get away with less range overall here. So I'll go down the edge array group by hitting Tab, then I'll play with the levels. Two, or I don't know, one, maybe something in between, like 1.5 for the HDR multiplier. And maybe a slightly higher bass, like 0.2. And maybe slightly lower HDR. Okay, so we made it slightly less contrast. It is a decent starting point, I think. This looks good, but it makes me think, do we need more fill, actually? Do we need more? Do we need to show more of the front side of the character like that? Or do we need less fill? Okay, maybe 0.1 for a little ambient fill, so the back side of the character is not pitch black. Maybe we can do something with the blocker. Remember, we have the blocker that cuts part of the side lighting. You can change it any time you want. Just remember it's there. Tab to get into the edit mode. Let's see what it can do. Alright, I think it was okay, more or less. Let's just remember we can do it anytime. I enjoy this darker, moody look, almost a silhouette lighting scheme, but with a fair amount of side lighting enveloping our subject. I really like where it's heading.",
+  "language": "en",
+  "confidence": null,
+  "duration": 513.66
+}