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string | URL
string | cover_image_url
string | year
int64 | category
string | season
string | location
string | description
string | editor
string | publish_date
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int64 | creative_director
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int64 | __index_level_0__
int64 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Akris
|
pre-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2015/akris
| 2,015
|
pre-fall
|
The '70s were a popular reference for the Spring collections, and the decade continues to be a big talking point for Pre-Fall. We have a lot of leisure suits in throwback prints and off shades of orange. As it turns out, Albert Kriemler was looking at the '70s this season too—he cited the dandyism of Helmut Berger in films of the era likeThe Garden of the Finzi-Continis—but as usual at Akris the finished product was subtle. A three-piece suit had no retro affectations; there was nothing to keep the Swiss label's high-powered customers from wearing it in the boardroom or the courtroom or on set (we've spotted Akris onHouse of Cards). Sheared agnello trenches were equally sleek and streamlined. To juxtapose all the tailoring, Kriemler turned to florals. A shattered single orchid decorated the left leg of a pair of ivory culottes. It was unusual and super vivid, but the deep purple, black, and bronze of the allover print he used for a sleeveless trapeze gown were the collection's real beauty.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
January 13, 2015
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 400
|
|||
Akris
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,015
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
It hit you about three-quarters of the way through the Akris show. Where were the photoprints? Albert Kriemler has made them his signature; landscapes, famous architectural landmarks, and images by well-known artists have appeared in his collections. Tonight, not a one. Kriemler's new Spring lineup owed a large debt to the Russian Suprematist artist Kazimir Malevich, whose most famous canvases the designer reproduced on his minimalist designs. Malevich was known for using a limited range of colors, but Kriemler preferred the subtlety of tone-on-tone motifs. Blink and you almost missed Malevich's intersecting rectangles on the skirt of the white leather dress that Kriemler opened with. They were more apparent on the cotton voile shirt and shift that followed, but stripped of colors the embellishments lacked the definitiveness of the work that inspired them.There were squares almost everywhere: in the grid-like St. Gallen lace that Kriemler showed in white, black, or amber, and in the peekaboo black wool and sheer tulle tube dresses. When he wasn't thinking along such graphic lines, he showed a trim white seersucker pantsuit offset by a pair of bright yellow handbags, or—more of a surprise—apron pants and skirts (i.e., overalls) that might've been a nod to Malevich's studio gear. Yes or no, they were a departure from Akris' typical grown-up fare. This is not an argument to bring back the photoprints; it was time for Kriemler to try something new. But the show didn't quite connect as directly as usual.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 28, 2014
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 401
|
||
Akris
|
resort-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/akris
| 2,015
|
resort
|
Albert Kriemler had Morocco on his mind for Akris' Resort collection. The North African country has been a fashion nexus since at least the days of Yves Saint Laurent, but Kriemler's is a Morocco less traveled. Rather than Marrakech or Tangier, he looked to a city in the Rif Mountains called Chefchaouen, famous for its blue-painted buildings. Blue, no surprise then, was the show's dominant color. A navy wrap coat stood out for the leather it was made in—it was paper thin—but there was no shortage of ultra-fine fabrics here. From the simple to the sublime, others worth noting included the triple-twist cotton of an elongated button-front shirt, and a waterproof material used for a trench that looked and felt like cashmere. Kriemler specializes in photo prints. Of the two he used this season—a landscape of Chefchaouen's remarkable architecture and an image of spools of thread found in a souk—the former was more compelling. It came across especially well when it was abstracted so that it appeared more like a graphic geometric pattern than a photo. By and large, Kriemler's focus was on daytime clothes, the kind you could imagine Akris' well-heeled clientele packing for a long weekend getaway. There were only a couple of evening looks to speak of. A floor-scraping organza overlay worn with a strapless sequined cocktail number was a real sparkler.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 25, 2014
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 402
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|||
Akris
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,016
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
A Kriemler family trip to Kenya and Tanzania inspired the newAkriscollection. There was no escaping the clues, from the savannah red of the runway to the animal calls on the soundtrack. Albert Kriemler's collection was shades of red, too, from the orange shaker knit sweater opener to the aubergine of a reversible cardigan coat at the end. In between he sampled all manner of safari motifs, from zebra stripes to giant turtle hashings to an embroidery designed to mimic elephants’ deeply grooved skin. To sharpen the image, he accessorized with Maasai-inspired collar necklaces made out of thin cords of fabric and knee-high, stacked heel boots with rugged lug soles. The models’ faces were painted with graphic markings.Destination collections have gone somewhat out of vogue. Taken as a whole, this one struck a rather literal note, especially considering that Akris is a brand known for its understatement. But there’s no denying the persistent success of animal prints on the sales floor. We’ve certainly seen plenty of leopard spots elsewhere this season, and it’s savvy business on Kriemler’s part to get in on the action. Akris is also known for its fine Swiss embroideries, and the animal patterns gave the brand a chance to show off its know-how. The leather scale embellishments on a jacket and coat were so finely rendered that they almost tricked the eye into thinking it was actual python skin. That elephant embroidery, meanwhile, was so densely stitched it hardly looked like embroidery: It seemed more like a richly textured fabric. In the end, this collection’s appeal will be more clearly seen up close and in the hand than on the runway.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 6, 2016
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 403
|
||
Akris
|
pre-fall-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/akris
| 2,016
|
pre-fall
|
A New Year's trip to Africa was the starting point for Albert Kriemler’s brightPre-Fallcollection. Flocks of karminspints dart across a fine wool shirtdress, their brilliant colors true to real life, the designer attested, and a pride of lions emerge from the midnight blue darkness of a swing coat. Kriemler has long created photo prints chezAkris, but most have had an architectural bent. These animal images might strike some as a tad obvious, but this was not a lineup of safari clothes per se. There was nothing as literal as aYSL-inspired Saharienne, for instance. Kriemler appeared to have designed the collection with travel in mind, though. Many of the looks were accessorized with leather high-tops. Leather pants in flared and legging styles were made with a fair bit of stretch for ease of movement, and coats in both cashmere and tech materials were designed to be waterproof.The Akris shopper is accustomed to luxuries of all kinds. This season Kriemler kept them on the understated side, save for a couple of clingy matte sequin numbers, one cocktail length, the other to-the-floor, their lively colors lifted from those gorgeous birds.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 9, 2015
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 404
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|||
Akris
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,016
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Akris’sAlbert Kriemlerhas long looked to architecture as a reference, but he made the relationship explicit for Spring, teaming up with the Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto to create fabrics. Fujimoto designed London’s Serpentine Gallery Pavilion in 2013. Kriemler was so moved by the matrix of white steel poles that he approached Fujimoto about working together. Backstage it was hard to tell who was more excited about the collaboration—Kriemler or Fujimoto. The architect sat in the front row; it was his first fashion show.
Architecture is architecture and clothes are clothes. Bringing them together isn’t always the smoothest project. Indeed, there were a few proposals here that read as too literal: A dress made from thin strips of cork to look like wood siding with a black mesh “window” at the hip, for example, was a little on the nose.
The Forest of Music is a music hall project in Budapest with a molded round roof that has openings for trees to grow. The shirts and skirts it inspired were perhaps a tad eccentric for the Akris customer. Where the clients are concerned, the best pieces on the runway were the ones made from square slices of Perspex sealed between two layers of organza. The streamlined dresses glinted subtly; they won’t require any backstory on the sales floor. On the other hand, if the Akris woman learns about Naoshima, the Japanese island filled end-to-end with art museums and site-specific installations, including Fujimoto’s faceted pavilion, then this Akris collection was a job well done.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 4, 2015
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
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| 405
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Akris
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resort-2016
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/akris
| 2,016
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resort
|
Akris' Albert Kriemler brought his signature photo prints back for Resort. "After a couple of seasons of quiet collections, I thought it was time," he said. Inspired by the Netherlands' vast tulip fields, he worked with a photographer on two exclusive prints of the orderly planted flowers; they were among his boldest ever. An oversize T-shirt dress was the canvas for a landscape; zoomed in, that landscape functioned like stripes on a pleated skirt. The tulips' natural hues provided the collection's heady colors: shocking pink and orange, bright yellow. Those shades may be out of the Akris client's comfort zone, but Kriemler sagely balanced them with pale neutrals, as well as navy (on a fully reversible sheared mink coat) and black. As ever, the materials amazed. One dress and coat were made from a poly thread that he had stitched into a micro repeating tulip motif. Very close to weightless and not prone to wrinkle, the material is ideal for packing, Kriemler pointed out. For your own trip to the Netherlands' flower fields.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 10, 2015
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
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Akris
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,017
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ready-to-wear
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fall
|
They don’t call them investment pieces for nothing. In good retail times and challenging ones, coats and bags are the items that sell because they’re the forward-facing essentials of a wardrobe. At the Fall fashion shows in February and March, they’re often all we see of one another’s outfits as we hurtle from venue to venue. They telegraph status, taste, and—sometimes lately—a person’s politics. The same goes for out there in the real world. Albert Kriemler opted to make the most of this fact with his smart new collection for Akris.For his de rigueur photo prints, Kriemler worked with the Canadian artist Rodney Graham. A six-photo self-portrait series, in which Graham shrugs on a coat, was installed on the Palais de Tokyo’s curving wall and printed on the backs of Kriemler’s closing pieces. The audience for these will be a cross section of Akris customers and Graham collectors (or would-be collectors). In other words, highly specialized. But the variety elsewhere—sleek, reversible black leather; denim-blue mink; a swing coat in vichy check; the duster in shearling—will have broad appeal. Bags ranged from small, structured cross-bodies to large, weathered leather weekenders. The shapes that fell somewhere in the middle (large enough for an iPad, too small for gym clothes) are likely to connect best with the polished corporate power brokers who shop this brand.A bit anachronistically, all of the looks were shown with bare legs and stiletto sandals. Shoes say just as much about a woman as her coat and bag, and like those items, they’re also a practical necessity. How would the Akris woman have faced down today’s driving rain? That’s something Kriemler could consider before the next go-around.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 5, 2017
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
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| 407
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Akris
|
pre-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/akris
| 2,017
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pre-fall
|
One early trend of the Pre-Fall season is designers finding inspiration in great female artists—of the heralded variety and the less so.Akris’s Albert Kriemler belongs to the latter camp. He came across the street photography of Vivian Maier, whose backstory is as sublime as her work, through the Howard Greenberg Gallery in New York and the documentaryFinding Vivian Maier. A nanny who took more than 100,000 pictures, almost all unpublished during her lifetime, Maier was “discovered” in 2007, when boxes of her negatives were sold at a Chicago auction house.In addition to street photography, Maier took many self-portraits—of her shadow on buttercup-dotted grass, of her reflection in shop windows—and Kriemler has incorporated them into his new collection. He has long been a proponent of photo prints, but he’s never approached them in such a tongue-in-cheek way. A sleeveless shift and a blouson top, for example, bore the photographer’s selfies from the neck down, trompe l’oeil style. Finding Vivian Maier, indeed. The opening dress with its fit-and-flare silhouette, meanwhile, was lifted from her everyday uniform, although you can bet that Akris’s cotton poplin grass print is finer than anything Maier wore.Rounding out the collection were the kinds of hardworking wardrobe pieces that have made Akris a go-to brand for women of a certain power and income bracket. Slim, simply cut pantsuits came in black seersucker and a lightweight denim; a shirtdress picked up the photography motif with an enlarged black-and-white pixel print; and a little black dress with sheer panels at the sides will be sold with an accompanying 3/4-sleeve top. Together they’re office appropriate; take the top off and you’re ready for cocktails and dinner.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 6, 2016
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
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Akris
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spring-2017-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,017
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ready-to-wear
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spring
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An invitation to be honored at theCouture Council of The Museum at FIT’s annual September luncheongot the wheels turning in Albert Kriemler’s head. Why not put on hisAkrisshow in New York instead of Paris for a season? And why not approach the artist Carmen Herrera about using her paintings as a reference point? He had fallen in love with her 1959 paintingBlanco y Verdeat the new Whitney’s inaugural exhibition last year.Kriemler’s Akris collections are often informed by art and architecture: The work of Kazimir Malevich, Thomas Ruff, Sou Fujimoto, and Roberto Burle Marx has been inspirational in the past. Kriemler met Herrera on May 31 of this year, on what happened to be her 101st birthday, and the encounter proved especially fruitful. This was a terrific Akris show, one in which the boldness of the graphic prints trumped the intricacy and precision of the house’s famous, but more subtle, St. Gallen lace. The colorful geometries of Herrera’s paintings made for eye-catching motifs on shifts and shirtdresses with breezy, away-from-the-body silhouettes that echoed those geometries. A more minimal work informed an excellent linearly draped black-and-white long dress, and the shorter version was good, too.Kriemler listed seven paintings dating from 1948 through 2014 in his show notes, a gesture suggestive not only of the serious collector he is, but also of the precision approach he takes to everything he does. Sometimes that tendency leads to quite literal interpretations of an artist’s work. Herrera’s oeuvre seemed to free him. There was a nice sense of ease to the collection’s best pieces. In another bit of synchronicity, a solo exhibition of Herrera’s work opens at the Whitney later this month.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 9, 2016
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 409
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||
Akris
|
resort-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/akris
| 2,017
|
resort
|
Akris’s Albert Kriemler will pick up the Museum at FIT Couture Council’s Award for Artistry of Fashion in September as New York Fashion Week kicks into gear. The Swiss designer, in town yesterday to present his label’s Resort collection, was visibly excited at the prospect. A quiet powerhouse, Akris is not often in the spotlight; Kriemler’s workmanship more than bears up to scrutiny, but it’s of the subtlest variety. Under the bright sunlight in The James hotel’s garden, the designer busied himself turning reversible double-face cashmere coats inside and out, and pulling apart a two-in-one coat that featured a rainproof outer layer in silk and a tailored cashmere under-layer. Needless to say, the finishings were flawless.The collection’s starting point was horse racing. The jockey intarsias and silk jacquards were a bit on the nose, but the sunset rider shift dress and cocoon coat will please collectors of Kriemler’s photo prints. Color-blocked tops modeled on a traditional jockey jersey were an understated evocation of the theme. The big winners here were the pieces outside his chosen topic: A pleated trapeze dress in black silk and a belted black wool coatdress both showcased the timeless elegance and fine craftsmanship that nabbed Kriemler the FIT honor.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 6, 2016
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 410
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|||
Akris
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,018
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
It’s interesting how centuries move in parallel. Albert Kriemler chose Vienna circa 1900–1918 as a starting point this season, in part because he sees those years as a time of women’s advancement, not unlike our own. The Akris designer isn’t one to wear his politics on his sleeve; he’s more comfortable in the world of art, which is why Egon Schiele portraits lined the back of the runway and the clothes were informed by the works of Gustav Klimt.Discussing the period, Kriemler described it as the “birth of modernism,” pointing out that it wasn’t minimal. “There was still the richness of art nouveau, and the romanticism of before . . . . ” It gave him a lot to work with, but being rather more of a minimalist himself, Kriemler handled it subtly. Klimt’s famous gold leaf, for example, appeared as just a dusting on a St. Gallen lace tunic and pants set, and as barely a shimmer on the inside of a kangaroo leather coat, although it’s worth noting that the coat was actually reversible. Functionality was apparently another of the era’s hallmarks, which suits very well Kriemler’s 21st-century repertoire of streamlined suiting and unfussy shirt-dressing.This was a well-judged collection from Kriemler: lively with color and pattern, including a bold black-and-white stripe impressively constructed from horizontal strips of felted wool sewn together in shoulder-to-hem vertical stitches. Yet it was restrained in a way that felt true to this sober label, with silhouettes that looked notwerkstätten, but of today. The exception was the St. Gallen lace cardigan, which Kriemler said he modeled after styles worn by Viennese ladies of the 1910s, among them salonnières like Berta Zuckerkandl and Alma Mahler Werfel, who have been more or less lost to history while the men they hosted—Klimt et al.—enjoy enduring fame. Kriemler gets extra points for bringing them to light in the small way he did today.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 4, 2018
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 411
|
||
Akris
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,018
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The Akris show has become something like an art history lesson. Designer Albert Kriemler is a collector and a scholar; each season he selects an artist whose work he adapts as prints and/or fabrics for the clothing he makes. This season, Kriemler gave us a primer on Alexander Girard, the American architect and interior, furniture, and textile designer who turned to folk art late in life. Reproductions of Girard’s wooden dolls stood at the end of the runway and appeared on the show’s first series of looks.Will women want to wear colorful depictions of dolls on their otherwise streamlined, slim pantsuits and silk crepe gowns? The jury is out. Among the seven Girard works that Kriemler used, the ballpoint sketch of staring faces that appeared on a kimono silk coat and matching V-neck dress is similarly debatable. When art is reproduced on clothing, abstraction tends to work best, which is why the graphic stripe Kriemler lifted from a print Girard designed for Herman Miller and used on a clean shift was one highlight, and the drawstring-waist shirtdress printed with a colorful geometric sketch Girard did for a mural in his Santa Fe home was another. Kriemler treats his garments almost like canvases: Most of them have a clean spareness to them. The pieces on which he transformed the cutouts of Girard’s iconic plywood sculpture into 3-D flower embellishments were a touch heavy going. Minimalism suits Kriemler, as evidenced by the collection’s neatly tailored, zip-front navy jacket and pants.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 1, 2017
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 412
|
||
Akris
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,019
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
The runway was extra narrow at Akris today. Designer Albert Kriemler intended it to be; he wanted us to see his fabrics close-up. Akris is famous for its St. Gallen embroidery, and there were some fine examples of it on a pair of dresses in the most delicate of black lace, though these were more or less covered by coats. Outerwear and suiting were the focus of Kriemler’s effective collection for Fall. Backstage, he was discussing investment pieces. He’s picked up on the fact that tailoring is the big talking point of the season. “For us it’s a culture, not something we do to be trendy. But it is nice to fit into the moment better than anyone else.”Kriemler’s two art preoccupations this season—he almost always references art—were Richard Artschwager’sAll in Good Timehorsehair exclamation points and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s Farbtafel prints of the early 1800s, which look remarkably modern 200 years later. Artschwager was quite loosely referenced in the first and last looks of the collection. Coco Rocha’s double-face coat was impressively inset with colorblocks of horsehair embroidery, and Dilone’s halter-neck gown featured a cut-out on the back in the vague shape of that declarative punctuation mark. The cues Kriemler took from Goethe were more direct: his prints appeared on a shirtdress, a ’60s-ish mod shift, and a pantsuit.In contrast to those graphic seasonal collector’s items, the investment pieces were the subtler elements of the collection. Despite their discretion, this is what stood out: an ivory pulled-wool coat that looked like shearling but weighed almost nothing in comparison; a black cashmere corduroy pantsuit with a fashionable oversize, boxy fit; and St. Gallen wool-on-tulle embroidery that looked deceptively like a cardigan jacket, worn with matching plaid trousers. “To feel well in the clothes,” said Kriemler. “That’s the point.”
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 3, 2019
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
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| 413
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Akris
|
pre-fall-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/akris
| 2,019
|
pre-fall
|
A deep appreciation for art is the first thing Akris followers tend to think of when they consider the Swiss label’s designer, Albert Kriemler. He showcases it most seasons on the clothes he creates, often collaborating with living artists or coordinating with the estates of historical ones. But art isn’t his only preoccupation; just as important to the Akris aesthetic is Kriemler’s ongoing fascination with textiles. Absent a project with a well-known artist, luxuriously subtle material was his major talking point for Pre-Fall.A picture can’t convey how fine the paper-thin cashmere of the coat and blazer of Look 9 are, but, take our word for it, they’re practically weightless. The woman who wants to wear the fabric year-round will respond. Of course, there’s more substantial cashmere on offer as well, in the form of a color-blocked double-face caban. The color-blocking of that coat picks up on the hues of the collection’s vibrant “Indian summer” motif, which was printed on chiffon and—quite painstakingly, apparently—on paillettes. Another impressive detail: the fine threadwork depicting an abstract mountain scene on a wrap jacket worn with matching pants and on a sleek halter-neck gown.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 6, 2018
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
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|||
Akris
|
spring-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,019
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Another art history lesson from Albert Kriemler at Akris—this one with a bittersweet ending. Kriemler discovered Romanian multimedia artist Geta Bratescu at the Documenta 14 art fair in Athens, Greece, and Kassel, Germany, last year. The nonagenarian also represented her country at the Venice Biennale in 2017.Kriemler was so taken by Bratescu’s use of color and her collage work and their joy-inducing properties that he approached her about a collaboration, the lifeblood of his Swiss label. She agreed, and in February, he visited Bratescu at her Bucharest studio. In April he presented her with his sketches and she “gave the green light.” But she never got to see the collection come to life; the 92-year-old artist died two weeks ago.Bratescu worked for decades, and Kriemler’s varied collection spanned a few of them. To start, he reproduced her magnet sculptures of the 1970s (photographed in black and white on a Communist-era Bucharest street) on characteristically streamlined dresses and separates. The magnets also turned up as hardware closures on sleek black pantsuits. Bratescu’s later work became progressively more playful in spirit (the Romanian revolution coincided with the fall of the Berlin Wall, in 1989). Her 2011 collaged self-portrait, in an electric shade of yellow with red lips and blue googly eyes, is easily the most audacious piece Kriemler has ever reproduced. More in keeping with the usually reserved Akris aesthetic were his riffs on Bratescu’s graphic collages.The most impressive work this season was actually Kriemler’s own. It’s been a big week for pleats in Paris, from Valentino to Balmain. Kriemler’splissé soleil(sunray pleats) were stitched flat, a technological feat.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 30, 2018
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
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| 415
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Akris
|
resort-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/akris
| 2,019
|
resort
|
You know it’s an Akris collection when masterpieces of modern art or architecture are reproduced on sleek, minimal tailoring. Creative director Albert Kriemler is a collector and connoisseur, and he enjoys elevating his understated clothes by reproducing paintings and photographs on them. For Resort, he switched up his approach somewhat, and worked with his own studio to create the abstract artistic collages seen on a cagoule, among other pieces. The lip motif embroidered on an A-line midi skirt was also designed in-house. “Resort designs are really all about joie de vivre in our busy times,” Kriemler said. “The symbol for this to me are the lips—they smile and they kiss. And who does not want to invite love and joy in their lives?”In keeping with this feeling, Kriemler gave this collection a sportier-than-usual mien. Akris is known as a tailoring resource for high-powered executive women with a minimal streak. This time around, he zeroed in on their off-hours. “This collection is probably the most playful I have done so far. I wanted to create a complete weekend wardrobe that fulfills every desire from departure to return, in fabrics that are airy and cozy, but also sleek and special,” he said. Why change tacks? It probably has to do with the way the market is going; athleisure has invaded every moment of our lives, low to high. But the Akris woman is not a leggings-wearing kind of person. Kriemler’s travel clothes are fine-ribbed cashmere in lush neutrals soft enough to make you look forward to an overnight flight. Of course, he didn’t shirk the signature Akris tailoring entirely. His slim-line suits looked fresh with white logo trainers.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 6, 2018
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 416
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|||
Akris
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,020
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ready-to-wear
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fall
|
When Akris creative director Albert Kriemler talks about his grandmother, Alice Kriemler-Schoch, the family matriarch who in 1922 founded the Swiss fashion house that he now leads, he refers to her as a “woman of purpose.” And that, he said in an interview at his Paris studio this week, “is who I design for—women of purpose.”How does that translate into the clothes themselves? “First of all, they have to be comfortable,” he explained. “It’s a very basic phrase, I know. But I think when a woman is at ease in her clothes, she can really be her own person. I think a woman of purpose doesn’t want to have complicated clothes.”And certainly the first few offerings that came out on the runway on Monday afternoon at the fall 2020 show, held at Paris’s Museum of Modern Art, did not look complicated. Sumptuous cashmere pullovers, either paired with a cashmere patch-pocket cape or a wool double-face, single-breasted coat, swaddled and caressed the wearer. They were an elegant, high-fashion version of comfort food.But Kriemler had more than comfort on his mind with the collection, starting with the setting; the designer said it was the first time he had ever shown in a museum. Though Kriemler has often referenced the works of artists in his collection—most recently the Italian painter Antonio Caldera for spring 2020—this time he said his starting point was the 1924 silent filmL’Inhumaine, particularly the Cubist sets designed by the architect Robert Mallet-Stevens.Mallet-Stevens was known for his collaborations with other artists, working relationships that grew into the Union des Artistes Modernes and helped establish Paris as a center of avant-garde art and design. (Works by two members of that collective, Sonia and Robert Delaunay, hang in the Museum of Modern Art, and provided the striking backdrop of Monday’s show.) Kriemler said those collaborations reminded him of his own work with his artisan colleagues, particularly his printers and the skilled embroidery workers from the Swiss city of St. Gallen, and he wanted to celebrate those collaborations with this collection.That work was showcased in such striking looks as a long taffeta parka with a trapezoid closure; a taupe, millefleurs-lace, hand-pleated shirt gown; a Cubist-inspired stand-collar tunic; a plum double-face wool cutout dress with slits; a stretchy, black silk crepe strapless gown with a techno grid-structured cube skirt; and in particular, the show’s final look, a multicolored silk and velvet double-breasted jacket paired with a wide-leg pant with cuff.Just what a woman of purpose might well be adding to her wardrobe in the fall.
|
Stuart Emmrich
|
March 2, 2020
|
Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
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| 417
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||
Akris
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,020
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
It’s been 10 years since Albert Kriemler launched Akris’s handbag collection with the Ai bag. To mark the occasion, he tented a room in the Grand Palais in the Ai’s trapezoidal shape and had a giant Ai created for the back of the runway, from which the models emerged. Naturally, they carried bags, most of them a softly constructed trompe l’oeil update called the Aicon. Kriemler continued the trapezoidal motif with his clothing. Backstage he said, “It’s good for the physiognomy,” and he was right. Inserted into the backs of dresses, the geometric shapes created a graceful fluidity.Italian painter Antonio Calderara was Kriemler’s reference point for Spring. He chooses a new artist each season, but this one is a particularly apt match. In his late career, Calderara was as obsessed with geometry as Kriemler is today—apparently he was a figurative painter until he saw a Mondrian in the 1950s, after which he never looked back. Calderara’s signature rectangles appeared on a voile shirtdress and caftans as ethereal as his discreet pastel palette. Of the artist’s colors, Kriemler said, “They scintillate.” That led him to his own silvery palette, which included a silver foil stripe that he developed in St. Gallen, Switzerland, and a metallic Lurex jersey with a liquid cling. Rounding out the story were the micro Ai belt bags in chrome leather.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 29, 2019
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 418
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Akris
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resort-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/akris
| 2,020
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resort
|
Cashmere and color were Akris designer Albert Kriemler’s twin passions this season. At his Fall runway show in March, he said, “To feel well in the clothes, that’s the point,” and nothing beats cashmere and color for that. Against a backdrop of neutrals, his sunrise orange and cherry blossom pink shades really popped, the sunrise hue in particular. It’s harder to appreciate the appeal of his cashmere in these pictures. Though the shapes are both flattering and timely, their allure is derived first and foremost from how they feel, which as a rule is delightful, the black cashmere joggers worn with a graphic striped black-and-white poncho in particular.“As you know,” he said, “I am very deep into the idea of building a wardrobe that works for today’s women, who balance business and life.” Look 17, a black blouse with glossy sequin pinstripes worn with matching sequin-striped flares in silk marocain, suggests Kriemler is well aware of how often work and life intersect for today’s women. (During Resort season here at Vogue Runway, it starts to feel there’s no separation at all…) The effect of that outfit was dressy yet effortless, an unbeatable combination.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 5, 2019
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 419
|
|||
Akris
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,021
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Albert Kriemler has long talked up his St. Gallen home base. Its legacy as the small Swiss city once responsible for 50% of the world’s embroideries has always been apparent at the level of the cloth at Akris. And yet Kriemler tends to look outward, collaborating with an international array of artists to reproduce their work as seasonal prints and embroideries.In this year of lockdown he turned inward instead, creating map prints, a subtle logo embroidery, and sturdier-than-usual clothes designed less with the runway in mind than a restorative walk in Dreilinden, where a meandering nature path offers vistas of the town. Anton Corbijn shot the collection video there after one of the heaviest snowfalls in years, and the look book images were taken at the exquisite Abbey Library of St. Gallen, a UNESCO World Heritage site.Who needs Paris? This was an energized outing from Kriemler, rooted in practicality but still luxurious. Playing the key role was outerwear, the highlight of which was a coat of wool-on-tulle embroidery in a geometric tile motif combining tones of terra-cotta, forest green, ivory, and black. In shades of blue, the same tile embroidery formed the top layer of a double-layer jacket, its three-in-one nature adding versatility to its virtues. Coats are likely to be important investments as we reemerge, both for their utility and statement-making properties.Via Zoom, Kriemler pulled a St. Gallen map-print blouson jacket off the rack and pointed to the Akris studio, his high school, and even—“I’ll let you in on a little secret,” he said—his kindergarten. The sepia-tone map that he used for a pretty midi-length shirtdress is antique and old enough to predate the formation of the Akris studio. It’s not a trip to the Alps, but for grounded clients of the brand it would make for a fun, collectible substitute.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 8, 2021
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 420
|
||
Akris
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,021
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Typephosphorizing fabricinto Google and you get exactly zero results. Yet Albert Kriemler’s new Akris collection opens with a series of phosphor fluorescent looks in techno cotton, linen silk, and sequins, photographed in low light to show off their glow-in-the-dark properties. They’re conversation starters, for sure. Kriemler is a fabric obsessive, so it makes a certain sense that this kind of pushing at ready-to-wear’s boundaries is happening at Akris. The question is why such experimentation isn’t happening more frequently. Now would seem to be the time for innovation, mid-pandemic, when shoppers are thinking harder about big purchases, and expecting more from their clothes.The phosphor fluorescent pieces sprung from Kriemler’s collaboration with the eminent German artist Imi Knoebel, who maintains a color workshop that the Akris press notes describe as “a studio draped with an infinite array of 700 color swatches where he creates unique hues.” Kriemler works with a new artist nearly every season; it’s a deeply pleasing exercise for him personally as an art lover, and a successful formula on the sales front. But this was one of his more inspired match-ups to date. To start, there is their mutual interest in geometric shapes. Knoebel’sKindersternpolygon was rendered as a repeat print on a sleeveless jumpsuit with a coordinating jacket. And Kriemler also used it as a starting point for pieced and banded cocktail sheaths that count as the most body-conscious and sexy pieces he’s yet done. Then there is the fact of what the press release rightly calls Knoebel’s “unique hues.” Prints of his large abstract acrylic and aluminum works enliven tunic dresses, tops and pants sets, and a caftan-as-canvas that is sure to be popular with Akris fans.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 5, 2020
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
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Akris
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fall-2022-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,022
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ready-to-wear
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fall
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Rare is the season that Albert Kriemler doesn’t choose an artist collaborator, but rarer still is the one that he nominates someone as closely aligned to his own aesthetic as Reinhard Voigt. A German artist, Voigt reduces his landscapes and portraits to grids. He’s a man who sees the world in squares.“Voigt once told me that his motive in art is raising the question of how far reduction can go without abandoning beauty,” Kriemler explained. “I can relate.” The Akris designer thinks like a geometer too. Though his preferred form has tended to be the trapezoid, he took up Voigt’s signature squares for fall, not only printing and embroidering his grid canvases on an array of pieces, but using the square as a pattern-making tool.The asymmetrical fall of a dress’s hem was the result of sewing two squares together. Sweaters and sweater dresses with cold shoulders were constructed using the same principle. Designers elsewhere have been experimenting with these reduced shapes this season, maybe as a balm for the chaos of our times. For one reason or another, their flat planes flatter our more irregular bodies.Other pieces were designed more conventionally, and on them Voigt’s paintings became the center of attention, in particular the boldly colorful Drei Teile, a portrait triptych from 1976/77 whose pixelated look anticipated our digital existence by decades. “He was ahead of his time,” admired Kriemler. There was a deep respect for the past here too. A stunning evening dress was made from chiffon woven with tiny squares of glimmering black velvet. Apparently, there’s only one loom left in the world that can achieve the effect.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 7, 2022
|
Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
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| 422
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Akris
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,022
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ready-to-wear
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spring
|
Akris turns 100 next year. Albert Kriemler’s grandmother Alice started making aprons for women in St. Gallen in 1922. A century ago, the apron was a wardrobe essential. Women had fewer, fancier clothes, and they cared for them in ways that T-shirt and jeans types wouldn’t consider today. Eventually the business grew across Switzerland. Kriemler’s father established the company’s Paris business, and Kriemler himself was responsible for introducing Akris to the U.S.With the anniversary approaching, Kriemler embraced the apron’s essential A-line shape. “It’s the definition of what I always thought design was,” he said. “It’s about clothes and humans. It’s not about fashion; it’s about construction, about making a woman feel her best. It’s as simple as that.” Kriemler is a disciplined creator, in love with clean lines and geometric shapes, but his minimalism is of a gentle variety. He knows his straight lines have to accommodate human curves.The simplicity and rigor of the apron silhouette left Kriemler a lot of room to play with fabrics. Several of the pieces were spliced from past-season materials, but the gesture feels less like the grab for sustainability cred that it might be at another label and more like a celebration of St. Gallen’s lace makers. But in the end, the apron shapes weren’t all that rigorous. In white plissé silk georgette and iridescent gray silk georgette with side panels, they wafted down the runway Kriemler and co. set up in St. Gallen’s Red Square. Similarly, the flat planes of Kriemler’s designs made ideal canvases for his artist collaborator Katalin Deér’s photos. One was of a St. Gallen sky crisscrossed by contrails and another featured an image of Seealpsee, an alpine lake on whose surface the towering mountains that surround it are reflected.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 4, 2021
|
Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
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Akris
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,023
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Akris is in the midst of its 100th anniversary celebrations. Last season Albert Kriemler’s collection for his family brand included a couple handfuls of archive pieces. This season, he explained backstage, he came across some 1970s patterns that belonged to his parents. It was the decade when Akris expanded from a maker of women’s aprons into a purveyor of fine tailoring. The patterns formed the basis for this outing, which was clear from the straight, efficient shapes of the dresses and flared cut of the pantsuits.“I love going back to the ’70s. They were the real seeds of change,” Kriemler said, alluding to second-wave feminism and the self-liberation it brought about. “Women were wearing the clothes and not the other way around.” That much is true, but a lot has changed in terms of fabrics between then and now, even for a brand built on the finest Swiss-made materials.Kriemler is a textile obsessive, always pushing Akris’s fabric mills toward innovation. This season he was particularly chuffed about the brand’s exploration of velvet, which is usually too stiff to do what he wanted to do here. Adding stretch made it a viable material for a slinky black jumpsuit and a liquid bottle-green dress. By bonding it with neoprene, he was able to achieve the precise A-line silhouette of abbreviated polo dresses. There was also quite a bit of straightforward neoprene, which he likes for its luxe, futuristic hand.The collection was rounded out by pieces in more traditional fibers, including double-face plaid pantsuits and shearling jackets and coats patchworked into floral patterns inspired by a 1976 print from the Zurich fabric company Abraham, which provided silk to Paris couture houses. The floral, which also appeared on floaty chiffon dresses, was an outlier for Kriemler, who tends toward graphic motifs, not romantic ones. An even bigger surprise at this home of quiet luxury was the abstracted logo print that was the centerpiece on everything from a wool coat to a belted short caftan in silk crepe. Even at a company that’s a century old, there’s a first time for everything.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 5, 2023
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Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 424
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Akris
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,023
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ready-to-wear
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spring
|
For Akris’s 100 birthday, Albert Kriemler put on a show at the Palais de Tokyo, with a 2011 Ugo Rondinone rainbow sculpture proclaimingWe Are Poemsarching over the pools. Kriemler has a strong affinity for art, and he said he worked months negotiating the loan; the agreement was just finalized this morning. For the finale, he made chiffon dresses in each color of Rondinone’s rainbow, and another in a creamy beige with rainbow stripes on the inside of its vertical pleats. He often works with artists on the collections, but given the important milestone, he took himself for a collaborator this season.Akris, for those who missed its first century, is a Swiss company renowned for the fine quality of its fabrics. Beyond his strong connections with artists, Kriemler has a reputation for exacting designs and a minimalist’s eye for embellishment. He has no social media presence; timelessness, not viral trends, is what he’s after.For the celebration, he selected nine pieces from the company’s archives to walk the runway (in the selling showroom, there are reeditions). “I was so impressed [by] how modern my clothes look today,” he said. The double-face cashmere coat that opened the show dates to 1978; a black single-face cashmere trench from two years later. They handily made Kriemler’s point about the timelessness of Akris’s products, but if you couldn’t pick the vintage pieces out of the lineup, that’s partly because he lifted some of the motifs and applied them elsewhere; the large gold buttons that appear throughout the collection were taken from a circa 1979 navy cashmere caban.Also interesting was a gabardine suit in twisted wool from 1993. He explained, “I have to redo it and I don’t really know if we’ll succeed, because these yarns just don’t exist anymore.” He had a similar challenge re-creating a lace from the 1980s: “The original lacemaker asked for six months to reproduce it.” That these resources and skills are fading with the passing of time is perhaps not surprising—we live in a fast-fashion world—but it is sad.So it was cheering to hear the story behind the collection’s multicolored hearts. The hearts were the first print made by the Como-based manufacturer Gianpaolo Ghioldi for Akris. At first Ghioldi was wary about Kriemler’s request to work together. In the late ’80s, when Kriemler came knocking, Ghioldi only supplied to couturiers. But eventually Kriemler won him over. Today, Ghioldi’s son runs the company, and it’s the base for all of Kriemler’s digital prints. What comes around, goes around—hearts, rainbows, and vintage Akris.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 1, 2022
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 1
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 425
|
||
Akris
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,024
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Before the Akris show began Albert Kriemler was backstage walking through the racks, pulling individual looks, and offering them up for inspection. Kriemler’s clothes are subtle compared to much of what we see on the Paris runways, and their nuance is best appreciated at close range. Even better if you can hold them in your hands.Today, he was talking up his many different kinds of cashmere: pebble cashmere, cashmere silk rib, cloud cashmere (not mohair or alpaca, he pointed out, but pure brushed cashmere), cashmere lined with silk, cashmere jersey, loop cashmere. Though the show notes didn’t specify, it seems likely that the baseball hats that several of the models wore were cashmere too. You get the picture; these clothes and accessories feel wonderful—like a warm embrace.Texture was one of the collection’s main attractions, whether the see-through micro stripe embroidery of a nearly weightless cape, the “dual” sequins that changed from black to silver and back again with the brush of a hand on a fitted dress, or the lacquered lace of a floor-length dress that caught the light as it glides down the runway. Another attraction was the clothes’s functionality. Kriemler pointed out a double-face coat that separated into a long vest and a cropped jacket (a nod to unpredictable weather) and maxi skirts that were actually full-legged pants, and thus a bit more practical.Last but not least among Kriemler’s considered details were the digital prints he made of the Swiss artist Katalin Deér’s analog photograms, which he discovered at a recent Basel art fair. Deér uses neither a camera nor negatives to get her effects, but light sensitive paper, colored light, and glass tubes. Kriemler used the prints for both weightless caftans in silk georgette and long and short coats in more substantial fabrics like double-face wool and wool gabardine. The results were more graphic and abstract than some of his more literal interpretations of his favorite artworks. These would get you noticed across a room.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 3, 2024
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 0
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 426
|
||
Akris
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,024
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
An Akris show is often an art-history lesson. This season, Albert Kriemler was excited to share one of his own recent discoveries, Felice (Lizzi) Rix-Ueno, a remarkable artist of the Wiener Werkstätte period who is too little known today for the usual reason—her gender. One hundred years later, she’s finally getting her due. An exhibition of her work, “Stars, Feathers, Tassels,” featuring drawings she made for textiles, wallpaper, and other home goods, opens at the Museum of Applied Arts in Vienna on November 22 (Akris is a sponsor).Rix-Ueno’s oeuvre stands apart from those of her male contemporaries; where they believed in “reduction and rationality” and sharp angles, she produced pieces that brought “vibrancy, color, and curves” to the fore. “Lizzi,” Kriemler wrote in his press notes, “was convinced that only inner creativity will lead to one’s identity, truly believing in the expressive possibilities of craft. I very much relate to her idea of craft as a momentum.”He used many of her pieces as inspiration. Her poppy sketch was transformed into the delicate Saint Gallen embroidery that appeared on the cocktail dress that opened the show. Her design for an Easter bonbon box decorated the front of a white shirtdress sewn from two rectangles. And an abstract watercolor and pencil rendering of birds enlivened a simply cut button-down and matching cargo pants. Akris customers collect these pieces like they would art objects.The prints and embroideries notwithstanding, this was a collection of clean, minimal lines—and also extraordinarily lightweight materials. Mentioning the 80-degree heat, a full 10 degrees warmer than the usual high temps in Paris in October, Kriemler pointed out the silk organza he developed for neatly tailored suits and a sweeping black trench. The evening pieces with platinum silk fringe reaching to the floor were another nod in Rix-Ueno’s direction. “To creativity, it’s freedom,” he said.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 1, 2023
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 427
|
||
Akris
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,025
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Of the nearly 60 Akris looks that were shown in the Gothic hall of the Collège des Bernardins, its stone vaulting dating back centuries, many featured applications of sheerness without exposing the body. Cascades of “techno tulle,” tiered waves of floaty tulle and organza in single and multiple configurations, underscored a material lightness in calm contrast to the solid stone surroundings. “What does it help when we create sheerness that cannot be worn,” said Albert Kriemler about a collection that was aptly named Flou and Pragmatism (floureferring to the fluidity and draping carried out by dressmakers).From the opening ecru layers to the pastel tones of pink and peach toward the end, the lineup was sophisticated and easy on the eyes. This can be traced back to Kriemler visiting the Camera degli Sposi in Mantua, Italy, where the frescoes of Andrea Mantegna convey his ethereal way with color.While clean lines and subtle design details are emblematically Akris, the flou made a forward impression, as though the soft asymmetric cuts and transparent layers contained all nuances while introducing some edge. For all the delicate assertions of flou, there were sporty pieces in supple leather and jackets deliberately proportioned so that everything balanced out. “It was the perfect season to play with those second and third dimensions in layering,” said Kriemler.His interest in Mantegna and the early Renaissance artists was prompted by the costumes he designed forEpilogue, John Neumeier’s final ballet as chief choreographer and director of the Hamburg Ballet, which nodded to the more saturated crimsons and ochres of Piero della Francesca. By the time the clothes are complete, all these art inspirations that underpin each Akris collection are barely discernible. They inform the creation process rather than appearing explicitly. And knowing this, you can better appreciate how 15th-century robes might evolve into a flounced minidress—a graceful simplicity inherent to each.As Akris is widely known for attracting women in high-ranking roles, from actors to politicians, my eye was continuously scanning for something Kamala Harris might be inclined to wear. “With politicians, it happens; you don’t really go for it,” Kriemler said diplomatically. If not the flou, then any one of the water-repellent parkas or raffia knits in warm beige. Or if a bag is needed, the compact, top-handle Alice (named after Akris founder Alice Kriemler-Schoch) would qualify as pragmatic…and presidential.
|
Amy Verner
|
September 29, 2024
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 0
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 428
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2000-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2000-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,000
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Come fall, Alberta Ferretti's girls will be casually strolling up Madison Avenue, sipping cocktails at the Plaza and then heading out for a night on the town. Ferretti showed a full wardrobe of essentials for the quintessential girl-about-town: Wool coats with fur-trimmed sleeves, sheared fur jackets and beaded, layered evening dresses all looked chic. There were also optical-printed tops, croc skirts and tweed suits cinched at the waist with thick metallic bands. The overall effect depended on which shoes the girls wore—Ferretti offered both slim, ladylike heels and perfectly flat riding boots.
| null |
February 25, 2000
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 429
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||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2000-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2000-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,000
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Not one to lose touch with her clients' need for romantic, feminine clothing with an urban edge, Ferretti delivered the goods this season. Transparency was the key to her array of dreamy, girly dresses with delicate beading and ruffles in light shades of brick, green, yellow and pale blue. There were also shiny slim pants, delicate twinsets, and peasant-inspired tops and long skirts. It was a subtle, contemporary and practical collection that will keep girls looking fresh for the year 2000.
| null |
September 29, 1999
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 430
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2001-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2001-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,001
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Models wafted onstage in a zig-zag pattern on Alberta Ferretti's extra-wide runway, ultimately forming a gray and black army of perfectly nice girls exploring their more daring side.There was a vintage feeling to many of Ferretti's short velvet dresses, wool minishifts and top-stitched leather coats. Everyday basics included sharp, straight trousers, chiffon aqua shirts, pearly satin tops and skirts pleated at the knee. Ferretti's main strength remains her way with frothy, delicate femininity—in her hands, last season's punky strapped dresses became subtly knotted and gathered slips embellished with short streamers and beaded insets, Empire-waist baby-doll dresses, and rough-cut (but always delicate and feather-light) sheaths.
| null |
March 3, 2001
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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| 431
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Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2001-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2001-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,001
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The models at Alberta Ferretti never looked hurried or overly styled. They smiled sweetly as they walked the runway; the attitude at a Ferretti show is always as casual as the clothes.Ferretti relied on small touches to give her looks personality: topstitching on practical navy coats, delicate embroidery on sheer day dresses and contrasting edging on the hems of her light skirts. Diagonal pleats, strategically placed darts and occasional ruffles gave the looks plenty of body-skimming movement. Ferretti also showed sleek, bright orange jackets, sexy wrap tops and a sensational draped dress with a knot in the front. For evening there were long caftan tunics with contrasting trims and subtle beading on the neckline.
| null |
October 5, 2000
|
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 432
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||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2002-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2002-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,002
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Alberta Ferretti has built her reputation on thinking pretty. Her favorite ways of expressing that are in fragile chiffon party dresses and sweetly-cut princess coats. For fall she does both, but with a hint of the Austro-Hungarian influence that has emerged as one of Milan's propositions for translating spring's folklore feeling into fall clothes.The Austrian touches turn up in Ferretti's use of loden and brown and in details like the Tyrolean bindings on her signature coats, military frogging decorating the sleeve of a blazer or felt cutouts adorning a duffel. There are precisely-cut peacoats, pants with raised seams and Aran knits which give Ferretti's girl an ample daytime wardrobe. Come nighttime though, she's back to her fairy chiffons which this season are subjected to endless variations of asymmetric cutting with pleats, raw-edged garlands of petals, twisted shoulder straps, ribbon ties and inserts of three-dimensional flower decorations, mostly in black.
|
Sarah Mower
|
March 4, 2002
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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| 433
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Alberta Ferretti
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spring-2002-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2002-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,002
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ready-to-wear
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spring
|
There were no major surprises at Alberta Ferretti, where frilly femininity is always in fashion.Ferretti opened with a pleated tomato skirt, white shirt and double-breasted fitted blazer—a simple, sophisticated combination that could have been developed further. Instead, however, Ferretti quickly moved on to her signature sheer dresses, generously ruffled and gathered, some with ravaged ribbon trimmings or beaded detailing; an optical print made a brief appearance, only to recede into a sea of blush lingerie gowns.Ferretti is known for her lyrical sense of style, but in this case, stricter pieces like her gold topstitched coat and straight trousers left a more lasting impression than the wispy dresses, which all seemed to merge into one.
| null |
September 30, 2001
|
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 434
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2003-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2003-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,003
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
No one can accuse Alberta Ferretti of being unfocused. Her label’s reputation, whittled down to its essence, is founded on two items: a chiffon dress and a princess coat. And those are exactly—and almost exclusively—what she showed for fall.The chiffon dress was short, strappy and pleated. Bound under the bust and at the hip with ribbon, it was shown with opaque colored tights and high patent pumps. The coat, meanwhile, came in color-blocked patent leather and empire-line printed velvet. Ferretti stuck firmly to her chosen colors, running exhaustively through every shade and combination of dusty pink, purple, maroon and red. Toward the end she sent out a few variations in black with feathers, a fringed shimmy dress and, finally, six long versions of the chiffon gown, worn with flat satin slippers.There’s no question that Ferretti has a firm handle on her winning signature look. It would have been all the lovelier if her show had been as short as it was sweet.
|
Sarah Mower
|
March 2, 2003
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 435
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||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2003-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2003-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,003
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Snip! Snip! Snip! Scissors have been working overtime in Milan this season, and miles of redundant skirt fabric have hit the cutting-room floor. Even the perpetual romantic Alberta Ferretti caught the fever for shortening everything up to here.She started with little shift dresses that had a distinct ’60s flavor, in colors like olive, buff, pale blue and silver, some woven through with strips of chiffon made to look like raffia. She then showed a group of tiny chiffon, ruched and puckered formfitting pieces, which were part ’50s swimsuit, part dress. Some of them came with minute flips of frill at the hem or with a matching pair of micro shorts—great clubwear for the cellulite-free under-25s. Ferretti thought of her more mature bohemian customers as well, though, sending out sheer embroidered skirts to wear over the body dresses for a modicum of modesty.
|
Sarah Mower
|
September 30, 2002
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 436
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2004-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2004-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,004
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Alberta Ferretti's dressmaker sensibility is a trump card in a season that's all about the pretty-vintage look. Her abiding love of fluttery fabrics, allied to her ability to cut a nice coat, made for a collection that trod a light path through the current trends.Opening with a soft, raw-edged tweed coat, Ferretti hit on an easy direction that stayed just the right side of prissy. Using a motif of circular cuts with unfinished seams, she whipped up little silk dresses with multiple tiers in absinthe green, dusty amethyst, faded harebell, and poudre pink. For warmth—it's winter, after all—she added printed fur jackets and stoles, opaque tights, and chunky wedges.With their hair in slightly mussed bouffant ponytails and their eyes smudged with dark eyeliner, Ferretti's girls projected a kind of undone, retro glamour that made the prospect of winter dressing-up look almost easy.
|
Sarah Mower
|
February 22, 2004
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 437
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2004-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2004-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,004
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Alberta Ferretti's slight, pretty collection confirmed her ongoing love affair with chiffon. Although the show opened with a full-skirted frock in cocoa satin smudged with a shadowy green rose print—perfect for a royal garden party in the fifties—Ferretti modernized the quaint vintage look with flat sandals and a tattered wisp of chiffon engirdling the waist.It was a taste of things to come, as the designer brought on an endless parade of airy nothings in her fetish fabric, made lighter still with the raw, unfinished edges she celebrates. Angelic little dresses were composed of layer upon layer of mousseline, like a mille-feuille pastry; or sweetened with piecrust frills; or embellished with vertical panels that wafted in the breeze from the sun-dappled park beyond the tent’s draped curtains. The audience seemed to be experiencing some collective déjà vu, perhaps because many of these dresses so closely evoked the fey frocks with which the designer closed her diffusion Philosophy line earlier this week in Milan.Although Ferretti’s prints—giant tone-on-tone blooms with a hand-painted feel, or marbled effects like the endpapers used by Florentine bookbinders—were some of the subtlest of the spring shows, her palette conformed to the pungent color mix so popular this season. Layerings of cardigans or suede mod coats over diaphanous blouses and skirts produced arresting combinations like carrot and magenta, copper and amethyst, and peridot and cherry; and Ferretti saved the best till last with a dramatic finale of enchanting goddess gowns in ravishing Pre-Raphaelite hues.
|
Hamish Bowles
|
October 3, 2003
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 438
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2005-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2005-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,005
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Alberta Ferretti knows her niche, which she carved out a decade ago with an ingénue princess coat and a chiffon dress. By applying smart design tactics, she's managed to trim that template to whatever trend happens to be in the air at the time, whether that be Courtney Love grunge, boho folklore, or ladylike dressiness. This season of course, we're coming out of the fifties and taking a turn north-northwest by way of Russia, and Ferretti is putting astrakhan collars on felted coats and dark prints on dirndls, popping passementerie trimmings on belted jackets, and grounding the look in knee-high flat suede boots.Such trend-gathering inevitably picks up cues from the current leaders of the pack, so Prada and Lanvin influences are feeding into Ferretti's neatly finished tweed and grosgrain beribboned day look. More interesting is how the designer is expanding her own signatures. After the day section of her show, she turned down the lights and spotlit a separate evening collection that showcased the red carpet relevance of her pretty way with a chiffon evening dress. For young actresses who yearn for something other than a gussied-up mermaid gown, Ferretti is increasingly a lady to run to. Her cloudy champagne- and mushoom-hued dresses, sprinkled with sprigs of silver sequins or minutely pleated à la Fortuny looked great.
|
Sarah Mower
|
February 21, 2005
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 439
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Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2005-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2005-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,005
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
"Liberty and freedom!" declared Alberta Ferretti backstage at her pretty spring collection. No, she hadn't been taking notes from a presidential candidate's speechwriter; the mantra reflected her belief that "fashion is a form of freedom … [and] the new lightness reflects a liberation of the mind."In runway terms, this translated into a Sarah Jessica Parker-esque layering of eclectic elements—a striped matelot sweater with a bell skirt, a tight rib-silk Victorian or rajah jacket with Capri pants—in off-key but surprisingly charming color combinations (pansy purple and teal; mint with scarlet and Parma violet). Ferretti's feel for the season's breezy new proportions led her to layer her ravishing signature chiffon dresses (often laser-cut to evoke the elaborately slashed doublets of Elizabethan courtiers) over voluminous puffball skirts in stiff faille, so that her hemlines billowed like up-ended mushroom clouds.Keira Knightley might have been contending with SJP as Ferretti's muse of the season, for there was aPirates of the Caribbeanspirit to the décolleté milkmaid dresses and smocked A-line bodices, and to the deliberately handcrafted effects. Patchworks of different-colored chiffon were sewn together to create elaborate evening gowns; other dresses featured panels seemingly held in place with a cross-lacing of plaited chiffon ties—bearing the saucy promise of instant disintegration in a light breeze on the high seas.
|
Hamish Bowles
|
September 27, 2004
|
Alberta Ferretti
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 440
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2006-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2006-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,006
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
She's come a long way from girly chiffon and folksy boho. From the very first look, a chain-belted sixties fur coat with rounded shoulders, it was apparent Alberta Ferretti would be making interesting strides into a new kind of sophistication. Grown-up wasn't quite the word for it, because these were still clothes for a young woman; it's just that she had synthesized ideas about structure and styling in a way that looked valid for the season, but that was also highly personal.She can do a little pleated shift, of course; that came second in the show. There was a distinct difference in mood this time, though, apparent in the way she used the reference point of the mod sixties to make a statement of her own. Anyone can do an easy retro show, but Ferretti's individual touch ensured that these clothes—the flat, calf-high boots, the stiff, rounded capes and pod-shape skirts—weren't vintage rehash. She made a hybrid out of fall's heavier black, navy, brown, and gray wools and jerseys and her usual light, romantic pintucks and ruffles, often pulling looks together with the great unifying device of a wide metal-link belt, woven onto suede.There were many (perhaps too many) different kinds of dresses: short shifts, Empire-line cocktail dresses, almost Edwardian-waist ones. The best were her versions of the long, slim gowns in daywear fabric that have become the Milan trend. She personalized a navy one with a bib of pintucked chiffon shirting, a good example of avoiding the too obvious. As for red carpet, Ferretti sent Carmen Kass out in a stiff gold double-knit Lurex gown—it had a whiff of the sixties, but was very new, too. As we said, a long way from the predictable girly chiffon. Plaudits to her.
|
Sarah Mower
|
February 21, 2006
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 441
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2006-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2006-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,006
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
These days, what's significant about Alberta Ferretti's collections comes at the end of her shows, when she sends out her victory parade of long dresses. Dramatically framed in a spotlight, they embody the drift toward a less eroticized, more fragile special-occasion prettiness that appeals to Young Hollywood. Sex-bomb bling is definitively over.The fashion news from this collection was compressed into that last sequence: Empire line, traily grosgrain bows beneath the bust, pale chiffon draped over opaque linings, and a vague glance in the direction of an arty, early twentieth-century Poiret-influenced silhouette.As for the buildup to this finale, it too was a light run-through of 1900's Arts and Crafts references—a train of thought instigated by last season's excursion into the Wiener Werkstätte at Louis Vuitton. There were loose, color-blocked dresses (Milan is rejecting the waist, by the way) made from panels of pleated chiffon and charmeuse, as well as painted ivy leaf and checkerboard motifs co-opted from Viennese café tile designs. Nothing scarily intellectual, of course—but Ferretti has found a clever way to seize the moment.
|
Sarah Mower
|
September 26, 2005
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
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| 442
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Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2007-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2007-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,007
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Whisking away the drapey jersey and pin-tucked chiffons of her Spring collection like so much fluff, Alberta Ferretti came out strong for Fall. Given the less-is-more direction in which fashion seems to be heading, it was perfect timing. She¿ll never be a minimalist, of course, so the smart pea jacket that opened the show came with puff sleeves, while a V-neck dress had a flaring hourglass shape that shaded from dove gray at the bodice to charcoal at the knee. Coats were potent, too. If their inspirations were retro, their lines were reproportioned to look new. One princess silhouette was decorated with a warm sunset print. Glossy leathers were studded, as is the trend this season.Ferretti is a designer who truly gets evening, satisfying both the desire for ornament and the less glamorous, but no less important, need for ease. Despite all of the pretty embellishments (cocktail dresses with gold sequins arrayed in Art Deco geometries or feathers aligned in horizontal stripes), there wasn¿t a lot of trickery. And as for the red carpet, get those gowns on a plane, pronto! Especially the ice-blue number aswirl with ruched chiffon, and the strapless black coupe de velour: The Oscars are only half a week away.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 19, 2007
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 443
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,007
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
You got that old familiar feeling at Alberta Ferretti's show today. Not just because the collection was firmly in keeping with fashion's current craze for weightless fabrics in pale noncolors, but because this is territory the designer has long called her own. It's pretty terrain, of course, but after a strong fall outing that took Ferretti in a different direction, it would've been nice to see a little more newness among the delicate pin-tucked chiffon and slinky draped jersey. Still, Ferretti fans (especially those A-list Hollywood stylists sitting in her front row) will find enough to like, starting with silk charmeuse cocktail dresses and gowns in rich hues like raspberry and cobalt. The shorter versions skimmed the body in front and dipped low in back to flash a bit of skin, while a longer style, worn with bejeweled flats, was belted at the waist with a coil of silver. Tailored pieces were also on point: Short-sleeve coat-dresses came in the season's metallic brocades, and tapering shorts gave a belted jacket a youthful kick. Ferretti has shown that she has a sense for structure. Why not use it on the runway more often?
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 26, 2006
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 444
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,008
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ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Jewel-like color and peacock blues and greens are a story coming out of Milan, and that's where Alberta Ferretti took her Fall collection. What she does, of course, never strays from the pretty—you wouldn't expect a dramatic departure here—but now it's in a slightly different form. The clothes were less fluttery and with the embellishment toned down, though they still retained the femininity her customers love.Instead of drifting, dresses were curved in the hem and gathered into the neckline, like the feather-print satin version that opened the show. Other shapes traced a trapeze line—one of them flowing into accordion pleats in back. Ferretti also paid special attention to making new volumes in coats, using shiny Mikado silk bonded onto a wool lining that holds structure without weight. Still, it was the simplest pieces that drew the eye most: a fine-gauge grape turtleneck worn over a wrapped chiffon skirt; two understated gray-beige draped jersey dresses; and, in the finale, deep purple, emerald, and brown velvets subtly detailed with burned-out effects marking the folds in a raised waistline. They struck a note of restraint that felt right for the mood of the moment.
|
Sarah Mower
|
February 17, 2008
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
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| 445
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Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2008-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,008
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ready-to-wear
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spring
|
When there's any drift toward romance and softness in the air, Alberta Ferretti, Milan's queen of chiffon, is going to catch it one way or the other. This season, the way was quite lovely and not so obvious: Ferretti steered her collection in the direction of Greco-Roman imagery, all goddess drapery, toga-tunics, and mini gladiator skirts.The show began with a T-shirt dress—a slightly asymmetrical cream jersey rectangle with a patch of oxidized crystal jeweling on one shoulder. It was an opening that heralded some good things in the way of subtlety and simplicity. Ferretti's palette, taken from the faded colors of ancient temples and frescoes, included verdigris greens, used to tint beautifully pleated dresses and floor-sweeping draped goddess gowns. The theme even managed to stretch to the house tailoring—jackets and coats were vertically pleated to echo Doric columns; shadowy bands of print inspired by Roman friezes edged a chiffon top. The most memorable looks, however, were the dresses that were unembellished, relying totally on draping for their desirability. The best was worn by Lily Donaldson, in cream jersey, which crossed in front and swooped and looped in the back: a quietly stunning entrance- and exit-maker par excellence.
|
Sarah Mower
|
September 25, 2007
|
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
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| 446
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Alberta Ferretti
|
resort-2008
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2008/alberta-ferretti
| 2,008
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resort
|
Alberta Ferretti has joined the growing ranks of European designers showing their resort collections in New York. Was it the success of her stateside Philosophy show in February that prompted the move? "It's the first market to understand the necessity of this season," said the designer after her show. But her arrival is about more than just dollar signs; there's the glamour quotient, too. The presence of Debra Messing, in town promoting her new seriesThe Starter Wife, turned an unassuming showroom presentation into an event. If anyone harbors any lingering doubts about the legitimacy of this season, it's time to start believing.As for the clothes, Ferretti worked that cruise favorite—a nautical motif—into striped sweaters and navy peacoats worn with cuffed walking shorts, polos paired with kicky pleated miniskirts, and crisp shirtdresses that showed off plenty of leg. Dresses—some with pleats, others with clever trompe l'oeil versions of the same—evoked Deauville in the 1920's without feeling the least bit retro. The inspiration was the seaside, but the results were chic enough for the city streets. When it came to eveningwear, there was little of the pouf and circumstance of the night before at Dior. Instead, Ferretti showed plenty of the signature soft chiffon dresses that have made her one of Hollywood's go-to red-carpet designers. "My favorite was the strapless nude style with the embroidery down the sides," said Messing. "I'd walk out with that today."
|
Nicole Phelps
|
May 14, 2007
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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fall-2009-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
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ready-to-wear
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fall
|
It's increasingly difficult, and ultimately pointless, to try to parse an Alberta Ferretti runway show as if it were a "collection" with a theme. Instead, it is what it is: an assortment of this and that, with sporadic touches of trend and a bit of something for everyone. For Fall, that meant a 15-minute parade that included magenta, aqua, and ocher color-blocking in chiffon and tailoring; eighties black leather; a glitter-shoulder rock-chick body-con dress; Art Deco flapperwear; sober gray wool pieces; and metallic brocade Edwardiana party frocks.That said, the content never veered too far off the known Ferretti path. She showed her staples: feminine coats, pretty chiffon (now cut into billowy blouses—a less expensive addition to her signature line of dresses), and bugle-beaded eveningwear (the best piece was a silvery twenties number on Jourdan Dunn). In Ferretti's stores, with the collection merchandised into logical groupings and with her inarguable knowledge of what women need from clothes for a broad spectrum of events and eventualities, her "stories" will undoubtedly all hang together in a perfectly orchestrated whole. Stringing them along back-to-back in a linear fashion, however, doesn't make a narrative.
|
Sarah Mower
|
February 26, 2009
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 448
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
pre-fall-2009
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2009/alberta-ferretti
| 2,009
|
pre-fall
|
The most editorial looks in Alberta Ferretti's extensive pre-fall collection had the season's defining forties vibe. Standing out among more standard fare like floral print dresses and pretty if predictable evening gowns were lightweight coats with peak shoulders and trim suits with pencil skirts that got directly to the point.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
January 15, 2009
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 449
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,009
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
At her best, Alberta Ferretti does pretty in a way every woman can get. It's not a collection that should cause anyone to get hung up on concept or theme, or—in this case—fuss too much over the fact that the intellectual link between "Grecian" and "flapper" is, to put it mildly, a little tenuous. Just so long as the easy, fluttery, feminine options for evening keep coming, Ferretti gets an unspoken pass. This season, within two or three outfits, it was clear she was keeping up her end of the bargain.Vertical, tiered fringing that suggested Fortuny pleating introduced the show, swiftly followed by one of Ferretti's signature whipped-around twirls of chiffon. The Greek-nymph side of the collection may be a reprise of her hits from last Spring, but no harm in that: Ferretti's signature way of draping a georgette dress can be gorgeous, and especially so when left to speak for itself—sans accessories—with flat sandals. Having established that, she wove in a series of short charmeuse cocktail dresses with Jazz Age tassels, and even something cool in the way of a dressy evening chino and a ribbon-lace capri pant. Save for a few moments when the fringe veered toward Spanish-shawl or showgirl territory, it made for a collection that will keep Ferretti's followers very happy, and likely gain her quite a few more.
|
Sarah Mower
|
September 21, 2008
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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] | 0
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 450
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
resort-2009
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2009/alberta-ferretti
| 2,009
|
resort
|
Alberta Ferretti applied her characteristically light touch to a Resort collection that, like many others this season, featured soft makeup tones. While the designer didn't venture out of her comfort zone, there were many romantic cocktail looks and some standout collarless coats that loyalists to the archly feminine label are sure to love. After all, don't they say that familiarity breeds fondness?
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
June 18, 2008
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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] | 0
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 451
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,010
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Alberta Ferretti has whittled her brand proposition down to the things she does very well: fluttery chiffon, a dressy princess coat, and a quietly pretty event dress. There's no harm in that focus. Part of the battle in fashion is reaching a point of clarity where people know what you're about and why they should shop with you—and then sticking to it.As far as dresses are concerned, the show began where it ended: with trompe l'oeil jewelry in the neckline of a nude, vertically pleated number. Ferretti navigated the current vibe for barely-there color and covered arms, sometimes with crystal sparkles planted on near-invisible net, the way you'd see in figure-skater outfits (had she been thinking Winter Olympics?). The coats, too, had the fit-and-flare silhouette that has been developing somewhere along the line this season as a mainstream, feminized response to the rigid A-line look that is taking hold in many collections.Still, with the Academy Awards imminent, Ferretti's section of long dresses could be up for more public attention than the rest of this collection. The way she showed them, with natural-looking makeup and downplayed hair, struck a note that could look refreshing on that red carpet.
|
Sarah Mower
|
February 25, 2010
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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] | 0
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 452
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
pre-fall-2010
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2010/alberta-ferretti
| 2,010
|
pre-fall
|
Alberta Ferretti may be the go-to designer for pretty chiffon gowns, but she injected some edge into her signature feminine silhouettes in her new pre-fall collection. A strong Helmut Newton girl—that perennial fashion inspiration—was the starting point, evident in a dark, moody palette that included black leather skirts, jackets, and body-hugging dresses. Ferretti even played with chains, stringing them like tassels across the shoulders of merino sweaters and a ruched jersey number. When a sheer blouse did pop up, it was paired with a structured charcoal wool pencil skirt. Ironically, fashion as a whole may be moving away from the hard-edged look, but in Ferretti's case, the juxtaposition of soft and strong gave her latest effort a welcome depth. We can't all be actresses with red-carpet appearances every night.
|
Romney Leader
|
January 26, 2010
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 453
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,010
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
It's interesting to chart the rise of the one-look show this season. The content and intent of the runway parade—if not its format, which is the same as ever—is beginning to change. Some designers and companies, it seems, are gambling that the communication of a single unmissable message, repeated over and over, might have more impact than a "collection," in the old sense of the term. Christopher Kane did that with his gingham checks and ivory thigh-split pleats; Burberry did it with its trenches and draping; and now Alberta Ferretti has done the same, in a show that left no doubt that her thing is the romantic chiffon dress.For Ferretti, it's a marketing policy that has merit. In a season when drifty, gauzy things are a topic, she's smart to claim the territory. After all, even when chiffonery isn't the general trend, that's what women go to this label to find—an accessible, feminine dress for a special occasion.Her fluttery frocks came in this season's pale palette of lingerie pinks, ivory, and cloudy beiges (embroidered with flowers or a bit of sparkle, to taste), but fragile as they may be, they actually constitute one of Milan's more robust fit-for-purpose fashion products. Not that there wasn't a little variation: As well as the young-nymph-in-a-vintage-nightie option, there were taffeta trenchcoats (good for a summer cover-up) and even an ivory suit with crinkle-pleated panels in front—ideal, perhaps, for a wedding, the second or third time around.
|
Sarah Mower
|
September 24, 2009
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 454
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
resort-2010
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2010/alberta-ferretti
| 2,010
|
resort
|
Alberta Ferretti stayed true to form for Resort, offering plenty of her famous pretty chiffon dresses. There was one significant difference, though: a lower price point. The house is aiming to give its fans a little bit more bang for their buck at the register, and that might be all the inducement they need to snap up a Fortuny-style pleated dress, a beige suede coat with "tribal" embroidery, a belted safari suit, or a flapper-ish, crystal-beaded, dance-the-night-away party dress.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
June 22, 2009
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 455
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,011
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
It might have been sheer coincidence that the most memorable image of Alberta Ferretti's show today was the pattern that ran down the front of a shift dress and a tunic top. It looked like a crack in the sidewalk. Maybe that was her way of telegraphing the schizoid nature of her new collection. The first part of the show was a roundup of (relatively) practical daywear, the second featured ethereal, floaty, classic Ferretti dresses. The designer is convinced that women have passed beyond the ease of day-to-night dressing. They now want a definitive break point in their day between work and play. Hence, perhaps, the crack.It wasn't necessarily a formula for coherence, but it did move the Ferretti collection in a new direction. The idea of a clear division was explicit from the outset, with a shift split in two by a spiral motif underneath a coat whose hard-edged graphic was the antithesis of the sheer, nude chiffons that Ferretti paraded last season. Colors were strong: fuchsia, petrol, electric blue. The designer spoke about a new, shorter proportion, but the velvet thigh boots she used throughout the show—never mind the floor-sweeping caftans—meant that there was scarcely a moment where bare flesh was seen. Even though monochrome trouser suits were convincing, you could feel Ferretti wrestling with the challenge of diurnal propriety. She surrendered to her instincts with a patina of sequins and crystals. (Well, we did say the daywear wasrelativelypractical.) Then she heaved herself with a sigh of relief into her signature diaphanousness, with elaborately embellished gowns that gave their wearers pale shelter. Thinking back to that first outfit, it was hard to imagine how a woman's day could begin one way and end somewhere else so radically different, but as an act of faith in human adaptability, Ferretti's show was oddly reassuring.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 22, 2011
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 456
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
pre-fall-2011
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2011/alberta-ferretti
| 2,011
|
pre-fall
|
Alberta Ferretti's pre-fall starts where the collection she showed at Pitti Uomo last week left off. Here, as there, there were feathers, fur, and lace to spare. The difference is, the show she put on in Florence was mostly eveningwear, and the focus in New York was daywear. Super-polished daywear, that is, like a camel wrap coat with Norwegian fox collar and cuffs, or an oxblood leather skirtsuit with prominent shoulders, a turned-up collar, and a little flip at the hem of the the skirt. Ferretti paired everything with semi-opaque rib-knit stockings, which gave even a little black lace cocktail number a dressed-down feel. For after-dark, she showed a shorter version of the matte silver sequin dress from Pitti, this one in gold and with a flapper-ish vibe. Other evening pieces had a surprising edge: With long diaphanous slips peeking out from beneath above-the-knee frocks, they keyed into the Spring runways' sheer trend.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
January 19, 2011
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 457
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,011
|
ready-to-wear
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spring
|
Once upon a time, in the Edenic innocence of the pre-digital age, little girls dreamed of being beautiful princesses. Alberta Ferretti got back to the garden with her new collection of floating floral chiffons. It was a departure from the luxe lady look she's been offering for the past few seasons, but "women want to change," Ferretti insisted backstage. "Fantasy is so important."Here, that fantasy was cast as a vision of fairy-tale femininity. Its key component was a sheer, floor-sweeping dress strewn with flora and paired with flat rope sandals and the occasional wide-brimmed straw hat to underscore the prelapsarian prettiness. Ferretti offered multiple versions: one softly pleated like a Fortuny gown, another in raw-edged tiers with Guinevere sleeves, or tied in back like a frontier woman's Sunday best. The organic, relaxed mood was sustained by the designer's use of lace and crochet, sometimes all at once, like the lace smock with the crochet midriff.There was a hint of eccentricity in this uncompromising commitment to romance and fantasy. Though Ferretti sought balance in the more "urban" pieces—a white trench, a Bermuda shorts suit, a natural python vest—the scales couldn't help but tip toward those long, diaphanous gowns. And while she was quick to point out that her new designs were about "a normal woman, not a star," it wasn't hard to imagine the fantasy sweeping away Ferretti fans like Sarah Jessica Parker and January Jones.
|
Tim Blanks
|
September 21, 2010
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 458
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
resort-2011
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2011/alberta-ferretti
| 2,011
|
resort
|
Alberta Ferretti's Milan runway shows are devoted almost exclusively to her red-carpet offerings, but even her most famous fans don't always have a movie to promote. For her more laid-back Resort collection, the designer looked to northern Africa, Marrakech specifically, for inspiration. A predictable point of departure, to be sure, but it made for some pretty results. You could picture one of her A-listers lounging poolside at La Mamounia in Ferretti's sheer caftan with metallic embroidery at the collar and cuffs, or traipsing through the souk in a loose-fitting silk camp shirt and slouchy khaki pants (if she traded in those heels for flats, that is). As for a goddess dress in a warm shade of sand, it'd be a knockout back on the starlet's home turf: the press line.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 21, 2010
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 459
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,012
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
There were a couple of dresses toward the end of Alberta Ferretti's show that reminded us of the designer's usual stance: romantic, floaty, slightly vintage-y. They were a useful reference point in a collection that made an earnest effort to reposition Ferretti. "I'm projecting my woman into the future," she said. "The world is very hard at the moment, and a woman needs to be strong, because she has an important role to play in society."That instinct translated into a collection built on dichotomy. It was most obvious in the way that a masculine exterior cocooned a feminine interior—or, to be a little less obtuse, the way a tailored pinstriped coat opened to reveal a delicately feathered skirt. The notion of a woman enveloped doesn't seem particularly empowering at first, but Ferretti felt there was strength in the sensual severity of her designs. To make her point clearer, she kept the palette monochromatic. She stripped away the print of her pre-fall, and even in her eveningwear there was a tension between strictness and flou, the structured bodice and the chiffon skirt. The detailed handwork that has distinguished Ferretti's last few collections was represented here by a skirt using an intrecciatolike braiding. It was paired with a sheer blouse wrapped in embroidery, like the wings of a bird of prey closing around the model's torso. The devil may be at the door, but he brought Ferretti a shot of creative revitalization as a hostess gift.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 21, 2012
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 460
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
pre-fall-2012
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2012/alberta-ferretti
| 2,012
|
pre-fall
|
Alberta Ferretti cannily anticipated a fashion curve in Milan tonight. She mounted an actual show for the pre-fall offering that has subtly inserted itself into the fashion calendar as a new season, and then she glossed it with a presentation of 20 "demi-couture" looks, worn by a platoon of twenty-first-century It girls flown in from all over the world. So, what does a twenty-first-century It girl look like? Clearly, genes are important. Andie MacDowell begat Margaret Qualley. Tali Lennox calls Annie mum. Amber Le Bon has morning cornflakes with Simon and Yasmin. But, family aside, Ferretti logged on to different criteria. Bloggers Hanneli Mustaparta, Oroma Elewa, and Candice Lake are Internet supermodels. That translated pretty easily to a catwalk. Co-catwalkers Audrey Marnay, Zani Gugelmann, and Solange Knowles are familiar with a more traditional spotlight.The thing that united all these disparate women tonight was a collection of clothes that could be construed as an escape into a silvery lunar landscape as viewed by F. Scott Fitzgerald (even if, in reality, he was too busy swigging gin with dissolute flappers to ever go off-planet). "Jazz Age" was one of Ferretti's touchstones for both collections. With yet another version ofThe Great Gatsbyupon us, that seemed like a timely reference. It was quite literal in the first pre-fall section of the show, with cloche hats and cocooning coats creating a twenties silhouette, and elongated plissé chiffons offering a languid take on cocktail dressing (which is, in itself, a Jazz Age notion). The fur lapels and sleeves on a long black coat cried out for a Stutz Bearcat. Ferretti piled on black paillettes for her pre-fall finale, but she swathed them in chunky knits that felt about as modern as you're ever going to make a Liza Minnelli moment.And then came her platoon of It girls in the silvery, gilded demi-couture. You could feel Ferretti's heart in these clothes: a fox collar on a gray flannel coat-dress; beaded, banded chinchilla over a silvery lace confection; lacquered Fortuny pleating trailing away in a fishtail. They were the sort of looks that make a certain kind of young woman dream of being a fashion designer. And, in their moonstruck dreaminess, they might be the sort of clothes that would inspire a certain kind of young woman to buy and wear them.
|
Tim Blanks
|
January 12, 2012
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 461
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,012
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Alberta Ferretti wouldn't be the first designer to talk about the urban jungle this season. The speed and chaos of contemporary life have infected fashion as much as any other creative medium. Ferretti's reaction was similar to Christopher Bailey's in London the other day: to elevate the artisan over the machine. And she looked to what she called "the poetry and mystery" of the real wild world for help. Using a technique called intaglio, Ferretti duplicated tribal tattoos in chiffon mounted on tulle. She drew on Zulu motifs and colors for dresses composed entirely of countless tiny beads arduously applied by hand (if there's anyone in the world who still cares about heirloom dressing, you could imagine them passing these babies on). And Ferretti went bush with a palm-frond print that was a more obvious concession to the current vogue for the primal graphic. It came wrapped sarong-style or, thanks to the magic of illusion created by tulle, creeping trifidlike up what looked like a model's naked torso.Truth be told, "Zulu" and "Ferretti" are not words one is likely to see in the same paragraph too often, but the designer managed to manipulate the out-of-Africa vibe in such a way that she successfully extended her own design vocabulary. Someone mentionedWhite Mischief, the cult chronicle of decadent goings-on among the British expat community in Kenya in the forties: If you closed your eyes a little and held your breath, there was definitely something of that saga's steamy languor in Ferretti's clothes, not to mention Guido Palau's tumbling, tangled tresses, which looked liberated by humid equatorial lust. The intaglio slipdresses, the wrapped and tied fuchsia chiffon outfit, the black chiffon gown with the jet bodice: They were all the stuff of decadent, sophisticated nights under the colonial skies. (Too bad about the shoes—they could have stayed home.) But there's got to be a morning after, so Ferretti offered linen silk trenches (again, the beaded collars showing she's on the same wavelength as Bailey), slinky suits in peachy crepe, and—the exotic-cum-sensible kicker—a khaki camp shirt paired with a brown beaded skirt.
|
Tim Blanks
|
September 20, 2011
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 462
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
resort-2012
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2012/alberta-ferretti
| 2,012
|
resort
|
Designers tackling Resort often look to the more bombastic vacation getaways—Miami, Ibiza, Saint-Tropez—for their inspiration. Alberta Ferretti, in contrast, chose Deauville. The picturesque town in Normandy is well known (among fashion types, at least) as the getaway spot for Coco Chanel, and the name conjures visions of early-century chic. And there was a sweet, somewhat vintage flavor to a few of Ferretti's looks in this collection, though the designer managed to throw in some eminently salable aughties garb, as well as some of her trademark flowing, glamour girl dresses. There was a retro appeal in silk pieces printed with painterly, picture postcard-style illustrations, and color-banded flared skirts and frocks. Scarf-print wide-leg silk trousers should offer another option to the girls chasing the season's pajama-dressing trend (not to mention gelling with the foulard chic surfacing at, of all places, the Spring '12 menswear shows).Ferretti's look can rocket this way and that from season to season, but longtime label acolytes know they'll always be able to count on her dresses. Here, as always, they came in long, draped, and diaphanous form, for this vacation just as much as for the next, or the next.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
June 15, 2011
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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] | 1
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 463
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,013
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Alberta Ferretti claimed two things for her show today: She wanted it to be recognizable as her own work, and she wanted it to look authentic. Possibly two sides of the same coin, because if a romanticfin de sièclemood is Ferretti's default position, she aced familiarityandauthenticity with her new collection. Take, for instance, the dusty black dress made up of seemingly haphazard diagonal tiers of lace, silk, and plissé. In one world, a Ferretti evening dress for a dreamy, last-gasp countdown. In another, glamorous widow's weeds.There were two distinct strands in the collection she showed. The elongated elegance of a Mitteleuropa madame was precisely snared in a column of deep aubergine velvet, as severe as a penitent princess. The dark twinkle of a garnet-beaded black velvet jacket also said madame. And it was such a woman's daughter whose spirit was captured by thejeune filleflair of a peplumed jacket and a skating skirt. Ferretti said she was aiming for a sculptural quality in her clothes. The silhouettes certainly defined a strong, clear line. Perhaps that is why the most memorable piece in the show was the simplest: a sleeveless plaid shift with a discreet cluster of embroidery at each shoulder. The clincher? It had pockets.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 19, 2013
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 464
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
pre-fall-2013
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2013/alberta-ferretti
| 2,013
|
pre-fall
|
Having handed over the reins at Philosophy to Natalie Ratabesi, Alberta Ferretti is devoting all of her attention to her signature line. Coincidentally or not, it's signaled a shift in her thinking. Ferretti has long been known for her romantic, super-feminine designs. She hasn't abandoned them entirely for pre-fall, but there was a new focus on daywear and a minimalist sensibility to outfits like a peplum top and cropped, tapered pants worn with a fox-fur shrug, or a chunky, short-sleeve ribbed sweater accompanied by a floor-length printed chiffon skirt. The woman behind Milan's most ethereally pretty dresses can also cut a mean tuxedo, it turns out. Its jacket comes with clever slits on the side seams, ensuring it's a good fit for gals with size-0 hips, as well as much wider. The reduced new look extended to the limited-edition portion of the collection. Amid the familiar crystal-embroidered chiffons, it was the strapless dresses in streamlined radzimir that looked the freshest.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
January 14, 2013
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 465
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|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,013
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The luminous film of anemonelike threads expanding in an underwater world was a spectacularly appropriate prelude to Alberta Ferretti's show. She wanted her collection to communicate lightness, luminescence, and iridescence, and what better way to do that than to evoke the undulating liquidity of sea creatures? But how to carry such a notion into cloth? Ferretti managed it. She layered organza over fringed, beaded dresses in shades of seafoam andeau de nil, trapping the shimmer and movement so gorgeously as to suggest something viewed through sunlit sea. Octopod arms of embroidery trailed down other frocks. There were clusters of seaweed appliqués, a gown of sequined net, and sheer peplums that floated.Some of Ferretti's outfits were so encrusted with embroidery that the effect was akin to barnacles on wharf posts. But her most oblique concession to the life aquatic was a set of tulle bodysuits that looked like they were tattooed with lace. They had a bare-naked audacity that would send a shiver down the spine of any old tar. The same lace peeked from under a dress and suit in shantung, which were likelier preludes to commercial success.Curiously, the oceanic momentum of Ferretti's show lapsed when she paraded the eveningwear that is usually a strong point. Charmeuse mermaid gowns might have had the look of light reflected on water, but they somehow didn't rise to the level of so much of this collection.
|
Tim Blanks
|
September 18, 2012
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 466
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
resort-2013
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2013/alberta-ferretti
| 2,013
|
resort
|
Modern tailoring met the seventies in Alberta Ferretti's new Resort collection, where a tie-dyed safari-inspired shirtdress, a violet topcoat embellished with Venetian Murrine glass stones, and a kaleidoscope-print silk maxi dress with a neon crocheted bodice were the key looks. During last month's Cannes Film Festival, Ferretti outfitted a slew of starlets, including Lana Del Rey, Eva Longoria, and Jada Pinkett Smith, and there were more red-carpet-ready numbers here, a delicate tri-toned lace gown in particular. The Italian designer adheres to a tried-and-true formula with her romantic clothes, which can sometimes seem repetitive from one season to the next. But then again, who can argue with the straightforward appeal of a billowing silk goddess dress like the one modeled by Vlada Roslyakova?
|
Brittany Adams
|
June 12, 2012
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 467
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
When Alberta Ferretti looks out her bedroom window, she sees birds and trees and nature in all its glory. That's because she lives in her own small forest. She brought that to life on the catwalk today. And isn't that the first rule of inspiration? Use what's around you. "A metamorphosis of nature and woman," Ferretti called it.She animated her twenty-first-century naiads and dryads with the height of Italian artisanship. One example: the mandalas of feathers that were made in Florence by the only craftsmen in Italy capable of such intricate work. Feathers were, in fact, a key component of the collection—as a print; as an illusory mélange of pleated ribbon; and as the real McCoy, in a darkly balletic dress that would have done Natalie Portman's Black Swan proud.But the forest that Ferretti loves was also vital. Her palette contained the colors of fall, green on the point of turning to orange, or peculiar leaf-mold tones. The textures followed suit—fabric technology duplicated tree bark; a nubby autumnal tweed was shot through with gold. "Like sunlight through trees," said Ferretti. Dresses in felted alpaca ended in homespun fringes. There was sublimated glamour in the flash of sequins that illuminated the lapels of a loden coat, but ankle socks and suede sandals grounded the whole affair in earthiness.Ferretti's woman is often cast adrift in an ethereal cloud, so this felt like something different for the designer. An acknowledgment of reality? Not likely with all that extravagant, expensive handwork. Nevertheless, the homeliness of the collection suggested a plush retreat.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 18, 2014
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 468
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
pre-fall-2014
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2014/alberta-ferretti
| 2,014
|
pre-fall
|
Josef Hoflehner is not exactly a household name. But it was the photographers cinematic shots of ships and sailors that enticed Alberta Ferretti to the sea. The marine theme was unmistakable in this collection, evident in everything from peacoats and sailor pants to a painterly jacquard suggestive of moonlit waves. Mrs. Ferrettis interpretation of oceangoing had a naval accent—her elaborate gold metallic embroideries were inspired, she explained, by the insignia on officers uniforms. More generally, thinking about workwear galvanized her rather atypical foray into denim: Ferrettis take was to feminize classic denim shapes by incorporating pliant black wool into her garments. A pair of narrow, dark denim jeans, for instance, was all snug black wool in the back. The metallic embroidery served as another distinguishing element—you wouldnt mistake Ferrettis jeans for any pairs at the Barneys Denim Bar. For drama, though, you really couldnt beat this collections dyed furs, the most tempting of which was a medley of pony-skin, mink, and fox dyed in varied shades of navy, black, and blue. A coat to drown in, you might say. Especially on #polarvortex day.Ferrettis Pre-Fall 2014 collection had a coda. In addition to the ready-to-wear, she created ten limited-edition looks of demi-, or at any rate, semi-, couture. These were red-carpet-ready concoctions of sequin, gold Chantilly lace, and great froths of tulle, plus a smattering of embroidered separates and the odd non-embellished gown of duchesse or chiffon. Mrs. Ferretti knows what shes doing with this kind of thing; the looks erred on the safe side, but there will be customers for them.
|
Maya Singer
|
January 7, 2014
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 469
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Alberta Ferretti has always been Milan's queen of languor, but today she sidelined her signature dreaminess for something a little more dynamic. "Positive energy, the joy of living," she enthused before her show. Against an electronic backdrop of shifting sunset shades, her models walked in pure white, trimmed with ribbons and multicolored floral embroidery. Ferretti cited the south of Italy—"the land of sun and sea and color," she called it—but there was equally an echo of the Andes in the hot pinks and reds she used.For all its superficial charm, the collection was intensely technical: smocked mousseline, embossed plissé, placed floral prints. Familiarity with the terminology doesn't necessarily increase appreciation of the garment, but once you'd touched these particular clothes, the technique made a whole lot of sense. What was most intriguing was that the craftsmanship was turned to clothing of an extreme girlishness. The tiered skirts, the shirtwaister, the little cropped linens—all paired with embroidered ballerinas—were pieces that you'd think thedaughtersof a Ferretti customer might best respond to. A smart move on the designer's part. Especially because she still gave her devotees the option of spectacular orange and green mousselines at show's end.
|
Tim Blanks
|
September 17, 2013
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 470
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
resort-2014
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2014/alberta-ferretti
| 2,014
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resort
|
Alberta Ferretti came down with a case of wanderlust this season, conjuring up a chic nomad who adds eclectic pieces to her wardrobe acquired throughout her travels. Such notions are particularly prevalent during the Resort collections, but Ferretti carried it off by mixing up tribal motifs and animal prints with classic safari references. The designer whipstitched panels of tiger-print ponyhair, leather, and nubby bouclé into a shift dress that was casually elegant. At the other end of the spectrum, distressed leather biker jackets and vests that looked like they'd already been around the world and back added a vintage feel to the lineup.It's not a Ferretti collection if there aren't any of her signature feminine dresses. A standout in this category was a sheath dress that looked like three pieces but turned around to reveal that it was in fact one. Evening gowns like a softly draped, off-the-shoulder number were indeed pretty, but felt somewhat at odds with the globetrotting theme.
|
Brittany Adams
|
June 9, 2013
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 471
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,015
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
The backdrop of Alberta Ferretti's presentation was stunning: a time-lapse sunrise in wintry woods. New day rising. What a gorgeous, optimistic point for a fashion show to start. Ferretti took that notion somewhere even more extravagant, to the Italian Renaissance, when an entirely new, world-changing culture dawned. It was one of those fabulous fashion synchronicities that Alessandro Michele was talking about exactly the same thing at his Gucci debut today. Maybe it's an Italian thing. The world has gone to hell in a handbasket for Italy. How reaffirming it must be to be reminded of that moment in history when the country straddled the globe with its glory. Was anything ever more "Made in Italy" than the Renaissance? Both designers eulogized its modernity, but for Ferretti, with all her experience, it was the sophistication of the materials that appealed. The gilded brocades, the velvets, and the tapestries of the Renaissance were translated into jacquard patchworks, or prints on georgette and velvet, or the textured trapunto of a red silk redingote. She achieved the most extraordinary effect with the needle punching of organdy and mohair, creating a soft but substantial fabric on which she embroidered a dégradé velvet. She also showed cozy mohair coats for cold castles.The biggest issue with the collection was that as the clothes came down the runway, they appeared to have a costumey weight, when, in fact, they were defined by softness and an almost incomprehensible lightness. An over-embroidered, crocheted gilet looked to be lifted from Bea Arthur'sMaudewardrobe, and yet on the hanger it felt like feathers. Testament to Ferretti's technique, less so to the notion that the first bite is taken with the eye.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 25, 2015
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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] | 0
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 472
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
pre-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2015/alberta-ferretti
| 2,015
|
pre-fall
|
Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
| null |
January 19, 2015
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 473
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,015
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
It feels like Joni Mitchell is in the air. After the blizzard of attention lavished on Kate Bush this year, it may just be Our Lady of the Canyon's turn for some love. And even if Alberta Ferretti might not have been 100 percent clued in to such a notion, she certainly offered up outfits that would've been the stuff of fantasy for Joni and the other ethereal L.A. spirits of the late '60s and early '70s. Look no further than a white mousseline gown, appliquéd with feathers, draped in a whipstitched suede gilet with fringes trailing to the floor. The accompanying shoes were hippie sandals, crocheted moccasins, or the Diana the Huntress gladiators that are everyone's favorite this season.Elsewhere, Ferretti fell back on the gauzy romance that is her stock-in-trade, with nude-tone chiffons and mousselines cut into filmy jumpsuits, slipdresses, and peignoir-like gowns. There were some undeniable feats of artisanship, like the strapless floor-sweeper woven into a trellis, across which crawled flowered vines arduously composed of paillettes. "Intimate, not for exhibition," Ferretti said softly. But those pieces needed to speak up if their bland prettiness was going to make an effective stand against the edgier suedes and denims. Those included a hip-slung skirt with laser-cut flowers of denim mounted on a raw silk backing (hello, cowgirl in the sand), a simple fringed shift in lilac suede with a matching bag (great bags throughout, actually), and a handful of glam-Pocahontas pieces that threw a different spotlight on Italian craftsmanship from Ferretti's usual delicate handwork. The collection was all the better for it.
|
Tim Blanks
|
September 17, 2014
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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] | 1
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 474
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
resort-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/alberta-ferretti
| 2,015
|
resort
|
Europe remains in a malaise. The economy is stalled; a bunch of countries including France just sent a bunch of right-wing fringe types to the EU parliament; and right at the edge of the Union, over in the Ukraine, Vladimir Putin threatens to turn off the gas taps, thumbing his nose at the West. Yikes. Not so cheerful! Which is why Alberta Ferretti decided to focus on cheering up women this season. For Ferretti, turning frowns upside down meant going crazy with color: The new collection looked like a bowl of Skittles, if Skittles had a sort of late sixties/early seventies thing going on, and boasted painterly jacquards and sequins. Ferretti's most interesting looks betrayed her interest in negative space, stripping away, and sheerness—a top and trim pants in a peppy floral print that gave way to floral embroidery on a sheer background, an A-line red coat with a floral silk intarsia. She also repeated the intarsia theme for evening, creating a tonal pattern in velvet in the skirt of a strapless burgundy-brown gown. Those velvet intarsia pieces had a dark glamour perhaps more in keeping with the actual mood of Europe than the one Ferretti sought to impose. In general, though, this collection certainly hewed to the bright side.
|
Maya Singer
|
June 9, 2014
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 475
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|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,016
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ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Alberta Ferrettiis a designer who’s long specialized in ur-feminine tropes like lace, tulle, and embroideries—a fact we’re often reminded of this time of year, when Hollywood goes full tilt with award shows. Ferretti’s dresses are popular with the starlet crowd precisely because of their uncomplicated sweetness. She makes no pretense of avant-gardism; pretty is enough.By those standards, this was a good Ferretti collection, delicate and light—a nice change from the overworkedPre-Fall offeringshe showed. Ferretti took cues from the boudoir, inserting lingerie lace into a bias-cut silk sheath in a striking shade of absinthe, piecing together bits of tulle for unstructured frocks with the ease of nightshirts, and transforming men’s pajamas into drop-waist jumpsuits. Accentuating the night-for-day feeling were the models’ bedroom slipper mules, in both flat and stiletto versions. Truth be told, Ferretti is fairly late to fashion’s pajama party—silk pj’s and, more recently, silk slips have been big stories on the runways. Still, the look suits her interests and talents, so why shouldn’t she profit from the synergy?Elsewhere, Ferretti inverted the after-dark-before-dark idea, cutting gray wool suiting fabric into a strapless gown and embroidering it with multicolored flowers and birds, then tossing a fur stole over the whole thing. “There are no rules,” she proclaimed backstage. Maybe so, but the fact remains that gray wool is an unlikely fabric for evening. If not anywhere near avant-garde, let's call it boundary-pushing. Anyone still shopping around for anOscardress for this Sunday is much more likely to choose the lacy confections with those same lush embroideries.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 24, 2016
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 476
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
pre-fall-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/alberta-ferretti
| 2,016
|
pre-fall
|
It was a menagerie atAlberta Ferretti’s Pre-Fall presentation. Wild cats prowled across cropped jackets and miniskirts, and a snake slithered down the front of a coat. Zebra and leopard prints abounded, and there were fur coats galore. Much of this was accessorized with knee-high boots in patchworks of yet more animal prints. It made for a rather heavy-looking lineup, especially considering the fact that these clothes ship at the beginning of the summer.Inevitably, the lighter parts of the collection had more appeal. Frilly little dresses have long been an essential link in the Ferretti DNA, and here a white frock trimmed at the bodice in black lace and a pair of silky black dresses bisected and trimmed in yet more lace stood out among the best pieces. Elsewhere, the designer explored rich prints with a vaguely Art Nouveau effect; they decorated daywear separates and long, diaphanous dresses. Other evening numbers were more elaborate, like a cocktail dress with ombré-dyed silk embroidery and matching paillette encrustations on the bodice and hem. It was a more successful showcase of Ferretti’s flair for embellishment than the animalia.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
January 14, 2016
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 477
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|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,016
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ready-to-wear
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spring
|
The backdrop ofAlberta Ferretti’s show was an aerial video of the desert: sand sliding over mile upon mile of dunes, nothing but sun, wind, and sky—and just about as far away from Milan’s rain-soaked streets as you could get today. The wide-open vistas offered clues to Ferretti’s frame of mind. “The desert is free, there’s movement, there are possibilities,” she said backstage. “I closed my eyes and we had many, many ideas.”Nature is a theme thatFausto Puglisiwould take up a few hours later, but where his version was rough around the edges, Ferretti’s this season was bohemian. There was a bit of the festival girl—Coachellaby way of Burning Man—to her pieced lace slip dresses and patchwork suede shifts in warm shades of brown and black. Ferretti has made a specialty of whisper-thin dresses over the years. Usually they have more of ared carpetorientation, but true to her word, here they came in breezy chiffons with fraying at the edges and as a decorative motif. Along with the lacy white cotton numbers, slightly Victorian in spirit, these were among the best pieces in the show, effortless and earthy, perched on corded gladiator sandals where some of the more elaborately worked and printed dresses, often with rough-hewn gold jewelry, came off heavy and overdone.A detour through some safari-influenced daywear captured that easy vibe, but they seemed rather beside the point. At Alberta Ferretti, the dress is always the thing.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 23, 2015
|
Alberta Ferretti
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 478
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
resort-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/alberta-ferretti
| 2,016
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resort
|
You could pretty much divvy up the new Alberta Ferretti collection into two groups: the minimal and the maximal. The minimal was not so minimal, though—trading on a travel theme, Ferretti executed nice updates on the classic safari style, and then proceeded to elaborate the jet-set tone of those clothes with romantic black evening looks in metal-dipped plissé and daywear in denim that had been laser-cut and embroidered in eyelet patterns. The minimalism came via the neutral palette, but was suggested as well in the straightforward appeal of these items. For all their flourishes, they were rather matter-of-fact, as garments go. The second, vividly patterned group found Ferretti's city girl at large in Bali or thereabouts. Printed maxi dresses and skirts had a serious hippie vibe: These are the things a woman imagines herself wearing when she daydreams about quitting her job and becoming a beachcomber who lives off the grid. Needless to say, Ferretti's take on that fantasy was a good deal more polished than the real, market-stall-scavenged thing. She also injected a bit of that fantasy into clothes that would serve at the day job—to wit, the tailored pieces in necktie jacquards. As a whole, this collection seemed less about clothes meant to be worn on vacation than ones that interpolated a romantic, free-spiritedness into looks that were more or less urbane.
|
Maya Singer
|
June 11, 2015
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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| 479
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Alberta Ferretti
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fall-2017-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,017
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ready-to-wear
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fall
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On the first day of Milan Fashion Week, Alberta Ferretti took us on a side trip to Venice, complete with Grand Canal–print chiffon dresses, gondolier stripes on everything from sweaters to an astrakhan jacket, velvets embroidered with the Piazza San Marco’s famous lion, and hooded capes and masks out of Carnival viaEyes Wide Shut.The Young Pope’s saturnohats got a nod, too.Why Venice? Why not? Ferretti has never needed a reason to whip up a pretty frock. Nor does she offer reams of explanation (where her compatriot Alessandro Michele does). This collection of Ferretti’s owes a debt to Michele’s Gucci; the flower corsages, tiers of ruffles, and gilded lions looked familiar. So be it. Ferretti’s not a thought leader. She’s built her business on her ability to sense what women want out of a special-occasion dress, and at the moment that means sumptuous fabrics (there was velvet galore here, in vibrant colors to boot) and glittering embellishments (see those gold bullion lions). The black chiffon number with starlike clusters of gold embroidery worn by Yasmin Wijnaldum would be a lovely choice for the special-est occasion of them all, next Sunday’s Oscar ceremony.For the show’s finale, Ferretti sent out the models in black days-of-the-week sweaters, a second installment of the colorful capsule collection she launched at her combined menswear and Limited Edition demi-couture show in Paris last month. They assembled on risers for the inevitable Instagram shot. Why days-of-the-week sweaters? Why not? If fashion has learned anything from Michele, it’s that the red carpet is nice, but to make a real go of things, a designer needs to make clothes for real life.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 22, 2017
|
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
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| 480
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||
Alberta Ferretti
|
pre-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/alberta-ferretti
| 2,017
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pre-fall
|
It’s no news that fashion is in a state of transition these days; as traditional rules are being questioned an experimental mode is turning the system on its head. Who knows where we’re going? Anyway, it’s an interesting time, to say the least. Alberta Ferretti joined the bandwagon, tapping into the current trial-and-error mood, giving a go to a sort of omni-channel format, which included in a single show a see-now-buy-now capsule, the Pre-Fall collection, and the upscale Limited Edition. Also, in order to have the gender issue covered, a few men’s looks were added for good measure.Ferretti opened her stuccoed Milanese palazzo to a coterie of Italian starlets and socialites, which swarmed the sumptuous salons: “It’s like receiving at home in an intimate setting,” she said backstage. When asked to explain her decision to show three separate collections seamlessly, she answered, “I wanted to have a more direct approach to today’s challenging times. Besides, it’s a way to celebrate my creative process as a sort of loop, where one thing leads naturally to another.”The show started with the Rainbow Week capsule collection, which was available online immediately after the presentation. An array of candy-color cashmere-blend sweaters, each emblazoned with the name of the week, were worn with fluid skirts in Chantilly lace. To give equal opportunities to both genders, spendthrift guys were also offered the chance to take advantage of the see-now-buy-now offer. A few angel-faced male models paraded around, wearing fluffy oversize versions of the sweaters paired with flowing pastel-color, lacy palazzo pants. They looked sweet, both the sweaters and the boys.Then the mood sombered, darkening enough to evoke the gloomy elegance of a princess out ofGame of Thrones. Black in countless shades and hues provided the canvas for a stream of fairy-tale-worthy numbers, where the designer’s flair for romance was unrestrained. A riot of flimsy tulles, see-through chiffons, sumptuous dévoré velvets, and intarsia laces were lavishly displayed, their ethereal preciousness heightened by exquisite embellishments and appliqués. Bias-cut or tiered delicate dresses were counterbalanced by evening coats of more substantial feel embroidered with floral motifs.The last tier of this lovely yet quite titanic tour de force was devoted to the Limited Edition, where Ferretti indulged her passion for a couture-like, high-end version of ready-to-wear, made for special customers or stellar red carpets events. A breathtaking flow of liquid, mermaid-worthy bias-cut dresses in luscious white or red satin were glamorous enough that they could’ve made even the plainest girl next door look like a goddess. Karolina Kurkova, who’s actually quite the goddess even when wearing the plainest T-shirt, was majestic in a slinky gold number with a sexy plunging neckline. The swanky mink stoles embroidered with rhinestones will have all the top celebrity stylists lining up.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
January 14, 2017
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 481
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,017
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Two columns of white coat–wearing atelier workers greeted guests atAlberta Ferretti’s show. Backstage, she was eager to point out that they’re the house’s seamstresses and tailors. The feminine-masculine story is as old as fashion itself, but it isn’t one Ferretti has tended to riff on during her long career. She’s the kind of designer who gets called on during awards season, famous for a particularly ethereal sort of frock. While she didn’t ignore those here, her new collection had a certain edge. It came across at first via the tooled-leather corset thatBella Hadidwore with a long tiered ruffle skirt in an amethyst-color silk, and next via the cowboy belts slung around the waist of Grace Hartzel’s turquoise peplum tank and floor sweeper.The surprise was Ferretti’s embrace of tailoring. Layered underneath a ruffly chiffon frock were flared trousers, and accompanying a silk peasant blouse were crisp shorts—not groundbreaking ideas, but nonetheless modern ways to balance her signature frills. In contrast, the multicolored floral thread embroidery on a different series of dresses looked a touch predictable, old even; it’s what you expect of Ferretti. But overall she was after something more unpredictable. Cut in humble cotton, the designer’s ankle-grazing skirts and cropped tanks look like the kinds of things athletic young Hollywood types would enjoy wearing on the premiere circuit. They had a certain energy. It’s never too late to try rewriting your playbook.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 21, 2016
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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| 482
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Alberta Ferretti
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resort-2017
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/alberta-ferretti
| 2,017
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resort
|
Alberta Ferretti owns a Russian icebreaker turned private yacht she calls Prometheus. She probably has a long summer holiday to look forward to on its decks. The maritime theme she explored in her new collection is a familiar, even obvious, one during the Resort season, but it’s close to Ferretti’s heart and she handled it elegantly.On her runways in Milan, Ferretti tends to favor the frothy evening looks that she’s most famous for, so her Resort collections tend to feel more daywear-focused. But there’s a reason she’s got a reputation for red carpet fare, even her sportswear tends to have a little something extra. Her marinière knits, for example, were almost all trimmed in lace that looked handmade, and a navy knit jersey dress was finished with a gilt belt buckle.As for evening options, there were many and they ranged from a gown in a bold gold and black jacquard meant to evoke the midnight sun to a softer, more romantic series of short, medium, and long numbers in a painterly undersea print available in dusty blue and pale aqua. Sadly, the Prometheus is not included in the price of the dress.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 9, 2016
|
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 483
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|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,018
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
There was something different at the Alberta Ferretti show today, and we’re not talking about the giant aluminum sculpture by Lorenzo Quinn in the center of the room. Kaia Gerber’s show-opening outfit was a silver-studded black denim jumpsuit. Ferretti is Milan’s resident expert in chiffon and tulle. What was a denim all-in-one doing here? Backstage she explained herself: “Women today have changed, and fashion needs to speak in a different way. It shouldn’t be so correct, it should show personality.” She’s right about that, so how did Ferretti go about giving her lineup that new personality? By threading a big-shouldered, high-waisted ’80s vibe through it, by adding that denim (not just black, but an acid-washed blue, too), and by sending a for-millennials-only pants-less look down the runway.That the show was bookended by Gerber (2.9 million Instagram followers) and Gigi Hadid (38.5 million) can’t be a coincidence. In 2018, it’s these young women who are setting trends, and Gigi could just as easily have walked off the runway and into her real life in her mohair sweater and Lurex-shot pants as Kaia could in her jumpsuit. Also: the ’80s are a big story of the season. But there’s a risk inherent in following: A designer can cede her own voice. The evening story, with itstremblantsequins and boudoir-y feathers, was truer to Ferretti’s long-held romantic inclinations. Edita Vilkeviciute looked like a goddess in her metallic lamé Grecian gown. The trick for Ferretti going forward will be finding a more satisfying balance between the Instagram set’s latest fascinations and her tried-and-true signatures.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 21, 2018
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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| 484
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Alberta Ferretti
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spring-2018-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,018
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ready-to-wear
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spring
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“I don’t want too many things,” Alberta Ferretti said backstage, making fluttery hand gestures signifying ruffles and frills. “I felt this was an important moment to look back at the past and to think about what I want for the present.” Ferretti has spent a lifetime in fashion, the better part of it embellishing her clothes with the “things” on which she said she’s turned her back for Spring. Her words signaled a change.Indeed, the sleek black maillots that opened today’s show suggested this might be a straight-up reinvention. Ferretti paired the one-pieces with studded jelly sandals and nylon windbreakers, inspired by the women she saw on holiday this summer who sported their swimwear out to parties—athleisure, Alberta-style. The streamlined sensibility of those bathing suits extended into a halter-neck dress and a plunge-front jumpsuit, both in black and both finished subtly in leather. Ferretti is known in celebrity-stylist circles for her delicate chiffon dresses—“my material,” she calls it. So she was back in more familiar territory with a series of chiffon numbers, but this season’s didn’t have the red-carpet potential they usually do, what with the wan nude shade in which they were cut and/or their thick leather apron straps.Reimagining yourself is hard work, and though the impulse was genuine and heartfelt, unfortunately, Ferretti took some wrong turns here. Most surprising was the luminous pastel lamé she used for pleated trousers worn with button-down shirts knotted thickly at the belly-button. Even Bella Hadid couldn’t rescue a mint green princess dress in that fabric. The good thing about a policy of reinvention: Ferretti can try again next season.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 20, 2017
|
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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| 485
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Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,019
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ready-to-wear
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fall
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Alberta Ferretti should be credited for trying to get out of her comfort zone; her style has moved away from the ethereal occasion dressing she has always favored to land on more consistent daywear territories. “Times are constantly changing, and women’s needs are, too,” she said. “We have to keep up with today’s fast-paced reality.” No arguing with that, and it seems to be a smart move: Aeffe, Alberta Ferretti’s parent company, apparently posted a 10.9 percent uptick in sales in 2018.This collection certainly offered plenty of daywear options. The show’s first look was an assertive head-to-toe winter-white outerwear statement: an ensemble of leather wide-leg pants and a sporty jacket layered under a voluminous mohair coat, accessorized to the nines with matching white suede cowboy boots and a wide-brimmed felt hat. If Ferretti wanted to make a strong point, she did. “Fashion is all about daring to express one’s own unique personality with courage and eccentricity,” she stated. “Nobody wants to look invisible.” It’s certainly true that looking invisible in an all-white look is rarely an option.The designer upped the eccentricity factor with au courant mix-and-match styling attitude, while the actual pieces, taken individually, were mainly wardrobe staples designed with Ferretti-esque imaginative flair. There were high-waisted, ’80s-inspired washed denim or intarsia leather pants over frilled, chunky-knitted sweaters; soft tailored masculine pantsuits; metallic leather and suede patchworked trench coats.Eveningwear has always been the designer’s forte; here, her romantic, flimsy dresses were replaced by ’80s-redolent blouses and wide-leg pants in silver and gold lamé, or black minidresses in plumetis and lace. They will surely appeal to all the young influencers crowding the show’s front row. Yet Ferretti understands sensuous, grown-up glamour: For serious red carpet appeal, the long white number with an embellished bodice worn by Bella Hadid or the black-and-silver one-ruffle-shouldered see-through gown on Vittoria Ceretti will be winning head-turners. It was here Ferretti was at her best: Goddesses don’t need any styling tricks to shine.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
February 20, 2019
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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| 486
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Alberta Ferretti
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pre-fall-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/alberta-ferretti
| 2,019
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pre-fall
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Alberta Ferretti is a dynamic, pragmatic woman; she knows rather well that women are challenged enough in their everyday lives without having to also be challenged by their wardrobes. That’s why she has cleverly adapted her collections to our fast-paced reality, expanding an efficient daywear offering and injecting her style’s ethereal femininity with a spirit of youthful energy. But make no mistake: She’s not running after millennials. “Youth for me is a state of mind,” she said. She has surely embraced a utilitarian sporty direction, yet she did it her way, with an elevated approach, rich in decorative details and rather elaborate.Streetwearisn’t a word that’s included in her vocabulary; she’s even a little critical about it. “I’d like to bring fashion to the street, rather than bring the street into fashion,” she explained.For Pre-Fall Ferretti continued to broaden her daywear horizons. The jacket was the collection’s pièce de résistance, offered in different iterations: masculine with a fitted waist; loose and comfortable like a sweater; elongated to the point of becoming a dress. It was often paired with sporty high-waisted pants in soft leather or in stonewashed jeans cut elliptically along the leg to widen its proportions. “I’m trying to make things difficult for high street copycats!” she said, pointing out a gorgeous oversize crocheted knit sweater, elaborately embroidered by hand with abstract motifs. Not easy to replicate, surely.Outerwear came with an imaginative flair, as in a brown waterproof moleskin peacoat hybridized with a cape. Paired with high-waisted canvas trousers and a matching quilted waistcoat, it looked practical yet inventive. On the same dynamic note, dresses were feminine, svelte, and short, sometimes with crisp, romantic blouses worn underneath. Eveningwear had the same spirited attitude. Embellishments weren’t much indulged, save for a luminous straight-cut minidress embroidered all over with lozenge-shaped silver sequins. It looked pretty cool.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
January 16, 2019
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 487
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,019
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
There was a time not that long ago when seeing jean jackets and chinos on an Alberta Ferretti runway—let alone utility miniskirts—would’ve been inconceivable. After all, Ferretti is Milan’s reigning frock queen. But matriarch or not, the designer has set her sights on the youth vote. And not with what young women might wear on the red carpet, but with what Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and the rest of her supermodel cast would choose for their off-duty lives (though that’s a nebulous categorization in the age of Instagram). Pieces like slouched-on denim jackets, boxy overalls, T-shirts, lacy camis, and slip dresses were all rendered in a palette of soft pastels.What made the collection Ferretti were its delicate materials, like cotton eyelet, crochet, and pointelle knit. The eyelet in particular was pretty, and her exuberant use of it on, say, the ruffles of Edie Campbell’s show-opening top, was winning. The risk with this reset is veering into other designers’ territories; Isabel Marant and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, who is indeed part of the Aeffe family, serve this group well. Besides: Surely there are already enough jean jackets in the world.Can a designer reinvent herself after 35 years in business? Will the industry let her? Signora Ferretti is game to try. Naturally, she was at her most persuasive handling the fancier fare. A pair of billowing striped chiffon caftan-style dresses caught the eye of a front row stylist whose opinion matters. By the end, Ferretti lost some of her conviction. The collection didn’t need the addendum of black looks, which were in most cases redos of previous exits. Ferretti said she likes black for its mystery (and probably also for its red carpet user-friendliness). But there was charm enough in her sweet pastels.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 19, 2018
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 488
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
resort-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/alberta-ferretti
| 2,019
|
resort
|
Cargo pants chez Alberta Ferretti? Not the most believable proposition from a designer known for her hyperfeminine concoctions of embellished chiffon. Yet utilitarian cargos paired with a military-inspired patched shirt was the first look of her Resort show, an all-encompassing affair that also included a few cute looks from her children’s line and a see-now-by-now genderless capsule of sweatshirts, tracksuits, and hoodies. Emblazoned with an Alitalia logo, the streetwear-à-la-Ferretti mini collection was part of a collaboration between the Italian airline company and the designer, who updated Alitalia’s crews’ new uniforms. They were unveiled today right before the show. A long line of actual flight attendants, clad in elegant navy blue suits trimmed with tricolor ribbons, greeted guests arriving at the show and ascending the Salone Arengario’s grand staircase.But back to those cargo pants, which suggested a new approach for Ferretti. At a preview before the show, she highlighted how her vision is evolving according to the times and to the needs of a new generation of customers, young and busy women always on the move, free in their spirit, active in their daily lives. The collection reflected this dynamic attitude, while remaining in keeping with the designer’s inventive, romantic spirit. Ferretti never met an embellishment or an embroidery she didn’t like. Yet here she seemed to challenge herself, experimenting with fabrications she’s never used before, such as a stonewashed denim cut into a pair of military-green palazzo pants, or a shiny nylon for a military-green jumpsuit. Or else, she proposed slightly oversize zippered sweatshirts as soft as cashmere, worn with high-waist suede pants.The collection was smartly built on separates, acknowledging the current trend of mixing and matching items to suit moods, occasions, and personalities. It’s proving a successful strategy for Ferretti. Her well cut trousers and feminine tops are apparently flying out of the stores; according to a spokesperson, in 2017 sales at the company increased by 29.5 percent. For all her dreamy ideas of femininity, she is quite business-savvy.While nodding to all the workwears, streetwears, and sportswears of this world, the Ferrettiwear kept its feminine, embellished flavor. A decorative folk inspiration infused the collection, with fringing galore undulating from the shoulders of belted jackets and from every possible hem, including sweaters with velvet intarsia and asymmetrical thick-knitted belted tunics. Fortifying the theme, more embroidery graced showstopping see-through numbers, a triumph of sequined fringes, lace intarsia, geometric motifs, and appliqués.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
June 15, 2018
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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| 489
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|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,020
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ready-to-wear
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fall
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Designers are sometimes rather verbose when explaining their collections. That wasn’t the case today with Alberta Ferretti. Backstage after the show she telegraphed her message concisely: “Daywear. Tailoring. Feminine,” she said. Her focus on feminine tailored daywear was difficult to miss—the show’s attitude was as assertive as the designer’s statement.If you think of Ferretti as the queen of flimsy romantic frocks, think again. She has abdicated that role and dropped the crown. The new route she has taken is much more pragmatic and efficient, in keeping with fashion’s zeitgeist. For fall she amped up the boldness factor too. The show opened with a pitch-black leather ensemble: an oversized, puffed up, tight-belted jacket with high-waisted ’80s harem pants tucked into high-heeled slouchy boots. It oozed confidence—and felt a little ominous perhaps.The Do-Not-Dare-to-Mess-With-Me vibe was carried out with conviction throughout the collection, with plenty of oversized, blown-up volumes, broad statement shoulders, and powerful ’80s silhouettes fortified by robust use of leather dressing. It looked like Ferretti on steroids—a far cry from the ethereal Ophelias of yore. Masculine tailoring was energized by almost inflated proportions; checkered tweeds and Prince of Wales wools were used on generous-cut pantsuits or puffed-up ’80 jumpsuits, tucked into matching tweed boots. There were no skirts in sight whatsoever: Ferretti’s women wear the pants.For those looking for a bit of the designer’s romanced’antan,not much was left to enjoy. Evening was equally forceful, resplendent in the metallic, cold shine of silver. Baroque lamé curlicues embellished a black silk jumpsuit; a fringed top had a liquid moonlight shimmer, as did a draped minidress, rendered in lustrous sterling silver silk. Playing on the same voluminous notes, explosions of undulating plissé ruffles in bright colors—red, fuchsia, cobalt blue, lilac—erupted on airy blouses, billowy tops, and tiered tremulous concoctions. They were a whimsical antidote to the powerful, inevitable practicality of daywear.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
February 19, 2020
|
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 490
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,020
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Quentin Tarantino’sOnce Upon a Time in Hollywoodmay be divisive, but there’s one thing we can all agree on, right? Margaret Qualley, who plays Pussycat to Brad Pitt’s Cliff Booth, is its breakout star; she’s can’t-take-your-eyes-off-her irresistible. Though Alberta Ferretti didn’t quote her specifically, elements of the designer’s new Spring show could’ve been taken from Pussycat’s playbook, among them the coveralls, the midriff-exposing crop tops, and the rainbow palette.For the last couple of years, Ferretti has been reorienting her label around daywear and giving it a determinedly youthful aspect. That came across more than ever in this new collection, with its retro ’70s lean. It’s the kids that didn’t experience an era the first time around who embrace its second and third iterations and so on down the line. Ferretti worked to modernize the show’s ’70s impulses, by, say, pairing a suede mini with an of-this-moment striped button-down. But the pieces that stood out were the ones that bore her signature crafty detailing: a whipstitched suede jacket, a butterfly motif slip dress pieced together from many different colors of silk, the intensely embroidered half-shirts. Nobody needs Alberta Ferretti pleated chinos, however. The abstracted black-and-white animal print pieces also felt like outliers.Ferretti’s evening grouping came in dégradé shades of blue and black. She claimed the artist Fabrizio Plessi, who made the video installation of moving water that played at the end of the runway, as inspiration. Here, too, it was embellishment that lifted certain pieces above others. It’s not hard to picture one of Ferretti’s young models off-runway in the belly-button exposing embroidered capelet and fully beaded stretch pants. Or maybe Qualley herself on her next red carpet sortie.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 18, 2019
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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resort-2020
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/alberta-ferretti
| 2,020
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resort
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Alberta Ferretti decamped to a posh location on the French Riviera to present her Resort collection; her show was the jewel of the crown of Monte-Carlo Fashion Week, now in its seventh edition under the High Patronage of HSH Princess Charlene of Monaco. Sustainability, being the hot topic du jour, was this season’s focus on the Monégasque catwalks. “Green is the New Glam” was MCFW’s headline, and an Ethical and Sustainable Award was bestowed upon the Italian designer, acknowledging her new engagement on issues like limiting waste in fashion, the use of eco-friendly materials, respect for the planet, and responsible consumption.Ferretti was elated by the recognition: “I’m very proud,” she enthused. “Fashion’s communication power is such that it can convey this message to millions of people, raising awareness, and fostering a responsible behavior. But I know that it’s a huge problem, which certainly cannot be solved in just one season.” But doing even a little something can make a difference. For Resort, most of her cashmere was upcycled, and all of the cotton was certified as sustainably produced.Lately, Ferretti has focused her collections around daywear, trying to find a balance between the delicate feel for romance expressed in her signature evening dresses and the sense of practical, no-nonsense but stylish purpose that an everyday wardrobe needs. While successful at retail, the reviews of her collections have lately been mixed. “My take on daywear is sophisticated and eccentric,” she said. “It has to convey personality, uniqueness, character. Women are no longer afraid to dare.”Without detracting from any uniqueness of expression, the daring factor was rather pared down for Resort; some styling excesses that muddled her Fall message were wisely smoothed. Ferretti kept things simple but dynamic: Easy wardrobe pieces such as slim-fitted pants, pencil skirts, culottes, and minidresses were offered in soft, sensual suede in classy tones of navy blue and beige, studded with metallic eyelets. Elsewhere there were pops of turquoise or fire red, as in a glossy-leather combo of high-waisted pants and a masculine shirt. Denim was washed, malleable, and pastel-hued; tailoring was rendered in fluid, feminine variations. A white trench was proposed either elongated as a duster or sharply abbreviated as a minidress to show bare legs. Day dresses were delightfully unfussy yet quite feminine, skirting the fine line between practicality and sensuality.But however convincing her daywear proposal, Ferretti was at her best when working on eveningwear. For the finale, she concocted a series of impalpable long numbers in dreamy shades of aqua, ocean blue, turquoise, and cerulean. Tiered, ruffled, and sprinkled with feathers and shining with scales of mother of pearl, they’d turn any woman into a mermaid.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
May 18, 2019
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,021
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ready-to-wear
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fall
|
Alberta Ferretti is keeping it real for fall. The video she presented on day one of Milan Fashion Week was staged as a proper runway show—no artsy experimentations for her, but a solid rendition of what we all hope will resume one way or another as soon as circumstances allow. The collection tapped into the same sense of realness. “I’m a woman designing for women,” she said on the phone. “How could I not take their needs into consideration? That said, being realistic doesn’t mean tuning into banality mode.”Ferretti focused on daywear, revisiting classic tropes and adding “something extra to make them special,” as she put it. Working in a dark palette (black, charcoal, and anthracite, with occasional flashes of olive green, robin’s-egg blue, and mustard), she strengthened the silhouettes of slender city coats by sharpening the shoulders, then added ruffles at the back for surprise. Wrapped shearling coats looked comforting, as the present situation requires; blanket capes were hand-stitched at the hem, hinting at the artisanal. Pants were proposed in many soft-tailored iterations, sometimes worn smartly under slim pleated skirts.Ferretti focused on surface treatments (lacquered, sequined, crocheted with silk-ribbon rosettes) and worked on elaborate textures to convey sensuality and tactility, striving to elevate everyday staples, as she said. But what’s more special than a fabulous evening dress, which of course is Ferretti’s forte? For the collection’s finale, a series of dramatic black dresses, plus a resplendent golden number dipped in shimmering sequins, screamed glamour. “Feeling beautiful gives you strength,” she said. “As women, we need all the strength we can muster to fight, as we still have so many battles to win.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
February 24, 2021
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 493
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
pre-fall-2021
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2021/alberta-ferretti
| 2,021
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pre-fall
|
The pandemic’s many challenges notwithstanding, Alberta Ferretti’s attitude is that of “a practical dreamer.” On the phone to discuss pre-fall, she explained, “I think that we have to confront reality without giving up our desire for romance, imagination, and fantasy.” She tinged her new collection with what she called “a flair for free-spirited bohemia,” meaning there was plenty of whimsy infused into otherwise quite sensible everyday wardrobe staples.Ferretti’s optimism is backed up by her hope that, when this collection is delivered in stores later this year, the pandemic will have relented and our lives will be somehow back in shape. To tempt her customers there are soft-tailored tartan pantsuits in autumnal shades of rust and persimmon, and parkas and city coats in silver-gray wool jacquard with motifs of country landscapes, one of which was paired with a romantic rose-printed chiffon dress worn as a blouse over sporty checkered trousers.Combining comfort and fantasy seems the right way ahead for Ferretti; it rings true to her early, most authentic and believable creative vision. She worked on every piece of the collection almost individually, adding a dash of decorative flair (as in voluminous sweaters knitted from a mix of different yarns and embellished with elaborate crochet 3D motifs) or indulging in handcrafted details (zippered leather jackets, corduroy blazers, or sporty canvas dusters airbrushed to add a painterly touch) to make each of them feel, as she said, “special, unique, with a heart and soul.”Ferretti’s optimism extended to hoping that parties will resume at some point. To prepare us for that possibility, she showed delicate evening numbers in embroidered velvet or ruffled chiffon, with sleek tuxedos or billowy organza blouses providing an efficient yet imaginative alternative. “Fashion is a way of reading the zeitgeist,” she said. Certainly the pandemic has treated us to an extra-dose of reality, forcing us to embrace pragmatism and face facts. “But if we don’t dream again, there won’t be any tomorrow,” Ferretti concluded. No arguing with that.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
January 11, 2021
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 494
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,021
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Alberta Ferretti’s show was staged in the open air in one of the courtyards of Milan’s Castello Sforzesco, with guests enjoying at safe distance a warm, sunny, last-official-day-of-summer afternoon. The same relaxed feel echoed in the collection, which was truer to Ferretti’s signature romantic style than her recent ’80s-inflected outings, where she veered toward an emphatic look rather at odds with her sensibilities.Speaking on the phone before the show, she reflected: “In this difficult situation, so harsh and unforgiving in many ways, my gut instinct was to embrace kindness and a certain seductive softness. I believe that it stems from self-confidence and from the acceptance of the natural power of femininity.” It’s a language in which Ferretti seems to be fluent, as it translated rather well into an appealing repertoire of feminine, flowing muslin dresses, and shorter, more ingénue-ish styles in broderie anglaise or encrustations of macramé lace.Ferretti’s approach being practical and dictated by her attention to real women’s needs, she also offered plenty of no-nonsense, everyday pieces, the so-called “wardrobe” options. Pastel-hued denim was her alternative of choice; high-waisted, tight pants were paired with lingerie-inspired bustiers and pretty bralettes. “I was known as the queen of the slip dress,” she joked. Probably it’s a crown she’s considering reappropriating. Embroidered shirts with scalloped capelets and cropped blouses with pouf sleeves put the focus on the shoulders—a callback of sorts to her stylistic embrace of the much-hyped “empowered femininity” mystique. Yet Ferretti is at her best when she ditches structure in favor of delicacy and finesse. “Romanticism is a manifestation of strength, not of weakness,” she mused. It’s actually quite a good message. She should consider splashing it across her popular T-shirts.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
September 23, 2020
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 495
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,022
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ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
How do you rewrite your design codes after decades? That’s the task Alberta Ferretti assigned herself about four years ago. Out went the goddess dresses she was long known for and in came collections grounded in day-to-day wardrobe essentials. Tailoring is integral to her reworked aesthetic and so is knit dressing; the shift was driven by the casualization of style and Ferretti’s newfound conviction that women can’t live on chiffon alone.That’s still Ferretti’s line of thinking. Backstage today she was talking about fashion post-Covid. “Before the pandemic, fashion ‘spoke’ too much, then we shut down for two years. Now, women want to live,” she said, using words like personality and identity. Think of these, then, as clothes for real life, only amplified à la Ferretti. Her trousers are as full as ankle-length skirts, her sweaters are lacquered to look like “glacial light,” and her use of “eco-fur” is prodigious. The palette was indeed glacial, with hot metallics juxtaposed by deep jewel tones: lapis turtleneck with amethyst duster coat, with ruby red pants and matching hat. The new Ferretti also likes an enveloping, layered silhouette: a long cable knit dress was swaddled with a matching shawl, and an oversize wrap coat was inset with channels of that eco-fur.What was missing from much of this daywear was Ferretti’s trademark lightness. That’s why three ’60s-ish embellished black minishifts stood out—they looked not just weightless but effortless. The evening dresses that closed the show found her back on familiar ground, too: inserting panels of lace into silver lamé plissé, trimming the cuffs of a chiffon dress with deep rings of feathers, adding dramatic but playful caped hoods to a couple of other numbers. Ferretti can push into new categories, but she shouldn’t forget these signatures.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 23, 2022
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 496
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
pre-fall-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2022/alberta-ferretti
| 2,022
|
pre-fall
|
Alberta Ferretti is a romantic pragmatist: “It isn’t an attitude of escape to avoid problems and live in a fantasy world,” she said over Zoom. “Romanticism for me is rather a filter that helps you through the hardships of today’s world. Thinking about beauty makes it easier to endure our difficult times.”True to her practical yet dreamy spirit, she approached pre-fall with “assertive gentleness,” proposing everyday pieces designed individually. “I’ve tried to give each of them a character, adding some special details, a sort of identity which extends their life span and makes them different and original.”To that end, she developed wardrobe staples imaginatively, reducing her penchant for decoration to a minimum while focusing on the use of elaborate textures. Working with her artisans, she experimented with new technologies on the creation of interesting surfaces, like an array of compact sustainable wools, graphic mixes of patterns and fringed options, luminous taffetas, and precious mikado silks. The utilitarian feel of field jackets, bombers, and trenchcoats was given a feminine twist with flourishes of ruffles, trailing ribbons and bows. Playing on opposites, high-waisted leather pants worn with abbreviated sporty jackets were shown side by side with ruffled minidresses, cut short and frilly. A belted coat in python-printed black leather was paired with flared plants in see-through black lace. For evening, Ferretti indulged in dreamy numbers in layered chiffon, but a flame red pouf-sleeved long dress whose skirt was delicately laser-cut signaled the designer’s take on new decorative effects.For Ferretti, women are built with inner strength (no surprise here), so they don’t need many bells and whistles to enhance their natural resilience. Yet a dress can hold beautiful memories, embedding sentiments or speaking to their sense of poetry and sensuality, which makes strength no less persuasive. “This is surely a peculiar moment, full of challenges and twists and turns,” she said. “The way we dress can give us the confidence to confront it, conveying the many stories each woman wants to tell.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
January 15, 2022
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 497
|
|||
Alberta Ferretti
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
| 2,022
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The mascot of the spring 2022 shows has to be the butterfly. Eighteen months of pandemic and it’s not hard to understand why, with its associations of reemergence and rebirth. The word Alberta Ferretti used backstage was renaissance, which has a useful double meaning in her case. In the seasons leading up to the crisis, Ferretti had been investing her efforts in expanding her ready-to-wear. There was a run of collections where we saw more leather pants, cargos, and jeans on her runways than we did her trademark wispy dresses. But the months since the vaccines were introduced convinced her to return to what she knows best. On her summer holidays she noticed women around her who were eager to dress up again.“It’s very feminine,” she said of her new collection, “sensual, but not vulgar.” Playing starring roles were butterflies, either as photo prints on a wrap skirt and a lace-edged slip dress, or as more impressionistic painterly patterns on a fluttery minidress. Macramé and crochet were two other key motifs. Embellishments, especially ones that look hand-made, are another after-effect of the pandemic; they’re physical symbols of the personal connections we all craved during COVID. The macramé was knitted from silk threads and the crochet was made unexpectedly of organza ribbon. Both had a light, effortless feel; a few pieces in horsehair ribbon embroidery looked stiff and not as flattering in comparison.Ferretti didn’t say goodbye forever to sportswear, though she did cut it with a more classic hand than her trendier separates of recent seasons. A macramé top was sandwiched between a fluid, generously proportioned trench and full, pleated trousers, but with a different kind of shirt those pieces would look office-ready. In the end, of course, special occasion dresses are Ferretti’s raison d’être. The way the show was structured, from its start in white, black, and other neutrals, to its brightly colored conclusion, it looked like a butterfly emerging from its chrysalis. “Identity is important now,” she said. “This is my story but in a new direction.” Best in show was a draped chiffon gown in shades of jade, turquoise, sapphire, and amethyst.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 22, 2021
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 498
|
||
Alberta Ferretti
|
resort-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/alberta-ferretti
| 2,022
|
resort
|
Alberta Ferretti seems to have left the diaphanous dresses that made her famous definitely behind. Taking a turn for the practical, she is now focused on offering more options for the everyday. It’s a fact that our wardrobe needs pants more than evening gowns. Ferretti’s mindset is efficient; she is a down-to-earth romantic.Radical isn’t a concept associated with the designer’s style or approach. Yet in her quest to make everyday pieces special, as she put it, she played on bold, strong volumes, venturing adventurously into a new territory of more challenging silhouettes. Outerwear was utilitarian, roomy, and robust: There were blousons in substantial washed denim, no-nonsense military cotton parkas, and trench coats with plenty of practical pockets. But the real scene-stealers were the trousers: wide-legged, with extra-long trailing hems, and often closed as a wrapping pareo. Ferretti said they were her replacement for skirts, which were nowhere to be seen; even the few shirtdresses on offer were worn over the jumbo pants. “Eight out of 10 women I see in the streets are wearing pants,” said the designer, for which IRL stats are clearly indisputable.Ferretti couldn’t keep her romantic touch entirely at bay, however. Broderie anglaise and entredeux lace gave a delicate touch to ruffled collarettes, to linen tops worn under nappa blousons, and to masculine shirts with embroidered details. Although the eveningwear offer was reduced, it was typically Ferretti, and a series of chiffon draped numbers looked covetable. The designer’s approach to romantic, feminine dressing is still faultless.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
June 16, 2021
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
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] | 0
|
Alberta Ferretti
|
Alberta Ferretti
| 0
| 499
|
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