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Alberta Ferretti
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
https://assets.vogue.com…dit-gorunway.jpg
2,023
ready-to-wear
fall
Alberta Ferretti’s show opened with a strapless gown cut from suiting fabric in boardroom gray. With its internal corsetry, the shape was signature Ferretti, but the fabric was unexpected. It’s not a dressmaker’s material, but a tailor’s. “For me,” she said backstage, “I like when the woman is a little bit eccentric and feminine.”For the better part of 40 years—Ferretti launched her namesake line in 1981—she leaned hard into femininity, developing a reputation for her light hand with pretty party dresses. More recently, she’s pushed further into other categories, experimenting with casual daywear and expanding her outerwear offering. This season, there was a preponderance of shearling, worn cinched at the waist with a sturdy belt or open over pantsuits that she topped with wide-brimmed hats. The word swaggering comes to mind.It’s not necessarily a natural fit for Ferretti, who is at her most convincing when she’s exercising that light hand she’s known for, be it on a scarlet red velvet slip dress with subtle flounces at the hips that accentuated its hourglass shape, or on a long sleeved black jumpsuit with a twist and sash of material at the waist that had a similar winnowing effect.Lingerie dressing has been one of fashion’s most persistent trends of late. This is more familair Ferretti territory, so the last portion of the show was devoted to it via a series of sheer black slips of varying lengths in lace, mesh, and jet-embellished net. Equally feminine, and definitely more versatile were a couple of looks that incorporated sheer elements with tailored pieces—an embellished chiffon skirt under a tuxedo dress, say—for boudoir-ish vibes without the full-on naked dressing.
Nicole Phelps
February 22, 2023
Alberta Ferretti
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0
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
0
500
Alberta Ferretti
pre-fall-2023
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/alberta-ferretti
https://assets.vogue.com…credit-brand.jpg
2,023
pre-fall
Alberta Ferretti calls women her muses: “I don’t look at movie stars, or at any other glamorous figure past or present, to get inspired,” she said. “I look at real women, the way they live; I like to read how times are changing and how what I do can make sense in today’s world.” Broadening her offer has been her concern of late, trying to move away from the ethereal party frocks she’s become famous for to include in her collections more consistent everyday options.Striving to balance pragmatism and romanticism hasn’t always been a straightforward route for Ferretti; for pre-fall though they seemed to be aligned more convincingly. She dusted off the sensual lingerie look which is an of-the-moment trend she actually adopted early on, and contrasted it with tough leather outerwear or with tailored masculine suits. “They called me the queen of the slipdress,” she joked, pointing at a slinky number in liquid white satin with lace details that she paired with a rather muscular trench coat in black leather. Riffing on the same note, a robust biker jacket was worn over eccentric fringed bell bottoms, while slim trousers in studded black leather clashed with an elaborately embellished, lacquered crochet top.On the sartorial side, tailoring was softened by the use of silky velvet in jewel tones and smooth dark fabrics; pantsuits silhouettes were kept elongated and fluid, while poet blouses in chantilly lace peeking out from languid blazers added the twist of romance Ferretti favors. “I think that being a romantic is a strength, not a weakness,” she said. “It’s what makes a woman seductive and unique.” Indeed. As today’s world makes believing in dreams harder than ever, perhaps fashion can lend us a hand to use fantasy and imagination to express who we are.
Tiziana Cardini
November 28, 2022
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
0
501
Alberta Ferretti
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
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2,023
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spring
Eager to keep apace with fashion’s more casual direction, Alberta Ferretti has worked hard in recent years to loosen up her aesthetic. Where she was once known for party dresses, she now likes to think of herself as a 360-degree brand. Since before the pandemic, she’s been delving into sportswear—she even lassoed cowboy hats and boots on occasion. “Fashion speaks a lot of languages now,” she said backstage. “It’s important that the woman changes and develops, but also that she stays feminine, sensual, elegant—this is my woman.”Her daywear this season was marked by its lightness, which is a signature of hers, and its zesty color, which is not. Ferretti used organza, traditionally considered an evening fabric, for hard-working shapes such as trench coats, hoodies, and safari jackets—even pants. As for the unexpected shades, they ranged from turquoise and avocado green to bright orange and fuchsia. A sharply tailored vest and trousers in stone-colored linen were a welcome palate cleanser.The everyday vibes aside, Ferretti didn’t hold back on the handicrafts: a halter top and shorts set came embellished with natural stones, and a bikini top and miniskirt combo was made from crocheted raffia with more stones embedded into the pattern. They would fit right in at a resort on the Italian seaside.Of course, Ferretti didn’t entirely ignore the special occasion wear that made her name. The highlights here featured shredded and braided strips of chiffon that spilled from crocheted raffia bodices, or were delicately constructed from chiffon embroidered with tubular ribbons of organza in the organic shapes of leaves and fronds. Some of the barer numbers didn’t live up to that feminine, sensual, elegant formula she mentioned. As with any new language, it takes repetition to get the nuances right.
Nicole Phelps
September 21, 2022
Alberta Ferretti
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0
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
0
502
Alberta Ferretti
resort-2023
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/alberta-ferretti
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“Women are my muses, I try to perceive the evolution of what they like,” Alberta Ferretti said at a resort appointment. That’s not an easy task, today’s fluctuating social and cultural conditions are constantly shifting the perspective. But Ferretti is an undeterred optimist, and also a pragmatist, and she embraces a broad spectrum of demographics and attitudes. The women she has in mind are “sophisticated but easy, romantic but strong.”Ferretti has tried for quite some time to rewrite, or at least update, her codes, focusing with conviction on daywear staples and keeping just a modicum of her famous ethereal dresses in the conversation. Here she seemed to adjust the focus in favor of a more balanced offer. She infused the collection with a breezier spirit, reintroducing a wider option of hermolto femminilidresses, while adding a series of utilitarian jumpsuits in luxurious fabrics as a cool alternative to pantsuits, and playing with pajama tailoring in fluid, elongated proportions.The airy volumes of trench coats, round-shaped parkas, and off-the-shoulder blousons looked fresh, but what stood out were the new renditions of Ferretti’s signature flowy dresses. Shot against the sunburned rocky beaches of Ibiza, in a vibrant palette of earth tones, and printed with Mandala-inspired motifs or watercolor florals, they had a timeless appeal that could also be attractive to the young audience the designer is after.
Tiziana Cardini
June 15, 2022
Alberta Ferretti
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1
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
0
503
Alberta Ferretti
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
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2,024
ready-to-wear
fall
In the dark of Alberta Ferretti’s venue pre-show, guests wearing her diaphanous chiffons posed for photos on the runway. Though her reputation was built on ethereal evening dresses in the ’90s, for years now she’s been equally focused on daywear. Women can’t live in silk slip dresses alone.Backstage, she described the collection as a mix of masculine and feminine. The first look was indeed a slip dress, but with a bodice that combined black lace and gray flannel, and a pleated skirt that extended to the floor, maxi lengths being one of the season’s emerging trends. In this opening group there were charcoal pinstripes, a salt-and-pepper tweed, and more of that gray flannel—the mannish elements—accompanied by shirts variously trimmed in ruffles or beads for a womanly touch. A handful of the looks included pieces densely embroidered with metal discs, an acknowledgment, maybe, that distinguishing between day and night dressing is an old-fashioned way of thinking.Another developing story in Milan is color: warm spicy autumnal colors from pumpkin to mustard to puce. In the show’s middle section, Ferretti used those hues for pantsuits and chunky layered knits, the only distinguishing features of which were their sharp colors. She also chose chartreuse for a bias silk slip whose bodice was veiled in black net. Among the special occasion dresses, the most winning was in off-the-shoulder black net with silver sequins embroidered to accentuate an hourglass waist. It has Oscars potential.
Nicole Phelps
February 21, 2024
Alberta Ferretti
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0
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
0
504
Alberta Ferretti
pre-fall-2024
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/alberta-ferretti
https://assets.vogue.com…credit-brand.jpg
2,024
pre-fall
Alberta Ferretti designs for “real women and their busy lives,” she said at a pre-fall appointment. “They want to sync up with the times without looking too fashionable or in-your-face.”Her formula is “daywear with charm,” somehow classic, but enhanced by light-handed creativity and the right amount of novelty. She doesn’t go retro, and she’s more interested in nuances than bold statements. This season, she offered her take on wardrobe staples, infusing femininity into masculine suits and sporty outerwear, softening proportions, and favoring comfort, with details elaborate enough “to make each piece look interesting and not boring.”Pragmatism and fantasy are the extremes between which Ferretti’s design oscillates. Roomy robe manteaux and trench coats, trousers wide as skirts worn with tucked-in shirt jackets, and crisp white poplin shirts with attached waistcoats sat alongside the ethereal numbers in chiffon voile and luscious satin that are quintessentially hers. Elongated and fluid, often pleated vertically in a sort of orderly disorder, in toned-down cosmetic hues with some black spark, the dresses were sensuous and light, exuding drama but no flash. Ferretti seems to believe that you can look pretty sensational even if your look doesn’t scream, only whispers.
Tiziana Cardini
November 30, 2023
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
0
505
Alberta Ferretti
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
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spring
A few looks into the Alberta Ferretti show, held in the Cortile della Rocchetta in Milan’s historic Castello Sforzesco, the wind kicked up and Ferretti’s wispy chiffon dresses started to dance. The rain that threatened to come down waited for later—Diesel’s Glenn Martens, who also held his show outside, wasn’t so lucky—but this was one instance where nature added just the right amount of drama.Ferretti made her name with goddess dresses more delicate than dramatic. Look 32’s white chiffon, with an asymmetric bodice ruched on one side and softly draped on the other, is exemplary, and given that its antecedents date to ancient Rome, it really is timeless. Others she gave a more contemporary spin with hardware ring details, as seen on a red number, or side cutouts trimmed with chunky metal chain, as on a blush pink style.Since before the pandemic, Ferretti has been focused on expanding her range, because women can’t live in chiffon alone. The lightness that’s a hallmark of her evening styles hasn’t always translated to her daywear, but the chemisier dress spilling off one shoulder that opened the show and the long white dresses with hand-tucked pleats that followed it had the ease of resort clothes. She kept the vibe going with striped cotton pajama separates and a shirtdress cut as generous as a caftan. You could see women wearing these pieces on holiday.Then there was a series of tailored looks, narrowly cut, oversized, or with utility pockets—a real mixed bag of silhouettes—plus some miniskirt looks. For evening there was just as much variation, including a group of mesh dresses pieced together to follow the body’s curves and another series made from silk ribbons tightly woven together, the best of the bunch being a halter style that looked like poured bronze. The collection went off in too many directions, but at the center of it all was that perfect white goddess dress.
Nicole Phelps
September 20, 2023
Alberta Ferretti
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0
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
0
506
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti held her resort show at Castel Sismondo, a 15th century fortress in Rimini, a popular seaside resort on the Adriatic sea in the Emilia-Romagna region in Northern Italy. The area was recently hit by floodings so severe they left thousands homeless, heavily damaging its infrastructure. “It was the worst possible test to our resilience,” said Ferretti, who after much rumination went for ‘the show must go on’ option, keeping it on schedule. “I wanted to signal that we have the strength to overcome the odds, the determination to rebuild and start anew.”Rimini was also Federico Fellini’s hometown; a museum dedicated to the Maestro of Italian cinema is housed within the castle. The languid, dreamy atmosphere of theRiviera Romagnolawas captured in his visionary movies, transposed in a magic, visually enthralling narration. Ferretti said that while she didn’t intend to overtly pay homage to Fellini with this collection, “the fantasy, the emotions that have always inspired my creations, for me too they come from this land—soulful, sensual, full of humanity and lust for life.”In the vast piazza that opens in front of the castle, models paraded on catwalks perched over thin pools of water, reflecting the fortress’s walls where black-and-white scenes of Fellini’s movies were projected. It made for a captivating sight. Composer Nino Rota’s famous soundtrack from the 1963 film8 1/2just added a dash of pathos.To counterbalance the rather imposing background, Ferretti gave the collection a dramatic, theatrical rhythm, playing on lightness opposed to structure, delicacy contrasted by character. Glamour and shimmer energized the ethereal dresses that have made Ferretti famous; billowy clouds of chiffon were draped, wrapped, and layered to breezy, weightless effect. Featherlight cloaks, capes, and evening overcoats ballooned over slender embellished sheaths; sinuous slipdresses dripping in translucent sequins had a liquid, voluptuous appeal.While her collections of late have been focused on daywear, here Ferretti didn’t indulge her “pragmatic dreamer” side as much. Instead, she set her whimsical spirit free, infusing more prosaic propositions—pantsuits, blousons, or separates —with a dash of caprice and eccentricity. Perhaps she was channeling the powerful Fellini’sgenius loci—who knows?People from Romagna are known for their generosity and big heart; born and raised here, Ferretti shares the same disposition. Her company has made substantial donations to the associations helping people in the territories affected by the disastrous floods. The show was closed by a swarm of young volunteers who have spent days working hard, knee-deep in the mud, to rescue people, offering assistance and relief. The blue sweatshirts they wore, created by Ferretti, were emblazoned with the phraseIo ci sono(You can count on me); the proceeds from their sales will be donated to charity. It was a touching finale that sent out a message of vitality and hope.
Tiziana Cardini
May 26, 2023
Alberta Ferretti
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0
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
0
507
Alberta Ferretti
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
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2,025
ready-to-wear
spring
With ruffles aflutter in the midst of a major boho revival on the runways, Alberta Ferretti is in the middle of the fashion conversation once again. This isn’t a case of sniffing out a trend. Wispy chiffon dresses have been Ferretti’s signature since before the last boho revival, but she made the most of the moment this evening, putting on a show under the colonnade of the Leonardo da Vinci Museum of Science and Technology. We were outside as the sun went down, pretty dresses catching the breeze.Backstage Ferretti was quick to point out, as she often does these days, that she designs for “all of the necessities” of today. “I know the show is important—it’s a show—but also important is the reality,” she said. So, in addition to chiffon ruffles, she showed cotton separates of the office-wearing, brunchgoing, and evening-strolling type. Some came in white and others in awning stripes; what made them Ferretti-ish were their feminine touches, like a portrait neckline on a shirtdress or peekaboo shoulders on a top. She also used bright orange cotton for a strapless dress with vertical pin-tucking details, which made her the second designer of the day to use the humble, everyday material in that kind of elevated way.But the looks that really got the hometown crowd’s camera phones in the air were her chiffon numbers, and Ferretti had one for every type: angelic in white with a halter neckline or witchier in black with dramatic cape-like wings, with many colors of the rainbow in between. The petal and leaf shapes inset into some of them were achieved via laser cutting, sequins and crystals being not especially bohemian. For adornment instead, Ferretti preferred a blown-glass flower on a black silk ribbon tied at the neck.
Nicole Phelps
September 17, 2024
Alberta Ferretti
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0
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
0
508
Alberta Ferretti
resort-2025
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/alberta-ferretti
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resort
Alberta Ferretti works a lot, but also “lives a lot,” as she said at a resort appointment. “If you don’t live, you don’t know what women want.” In a fashion system where creative directors are mostly male, Ferretti has carved her own path through decades of dedication to an idea of romantic pragmatism. “I am a dreamer, but my dreams are rooted in the reality of today.”Ferretti has been known as the queen of the slipdress for her love of languid femininity swathed in yards of chiffon and lace. Chiffons and laces are still there, but the quotidian preoccupations of women’s busy lives have crept in. As an entrepreneur (her family owns the Aeffe company that produces her collections), she understands what life demands of women. “We want to feel beautiful and magical for a special evening, but the everyday has to be part of an interesting narration too,” she said. “I don’t identify with banality or with excess.”Here, she balanced practicality and romance in a series of shirts in crisp white poplin or chiffon with plays of ruching; tucked into slim black pants, they can transition from day to night. Suits were softly tailored and easy to wear, slightly fitted but never constraining, while outerwear riffed on classic staples—the trenchcoat, the short cape, the jumpsuit, the leather jacket, loose-fitting trousers—treated to special details.Evening was ethereal, as is expected from Ferretti; she lavished on georgettes and satins, but kept silhouettes lean and dynamic. A slender long dress in white chiffon was cut like a simple t-shirt, with just few delicate plays of volants for movement. “These are clothes for real women who need to be well put together and feel beautiful for many different occasions,” Ferretti said. “They’re not intended only for red carpets.”
Tiziana Cardini
June 18, 2024
Alberta Ferretti
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0
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
0
509
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
https://assets.vogue.com…017-lookbook.jpg
2,017
ready-to-wear
fall
Alejandra Alonso Rojas is riding the crest of a wave: She picked up the Fashion Group International’s Rising Star Award last month, and today she presented a winning sophomore collection in a cozy West Village townhouse, chosen specifically to evoke a sense of home.It was just the right setting for this namesake collection, whose “common thread,” explains the designer, is her family heritage. Having shuttered her first solo effort last year, an “experimental” line called À Moi, the Madrid-born Rojas approached her new line, cofounded and led by husband and CFO Alejandro Sanz, afresh. “I decided it doesn’t have to be a trend every season,” the designer said, adding that she’ll continue to explore “memories of the women of my family” as the line evolves. Rojas is so committed to this approach that she has already defined her signatures: leather, hand-knits, and custom prints. This season Rojas digitized a watercolor she painted of her dog’s coat. The palette, mainly burgundy and loden, was inspired by her grandparents’ Spanish home and garden. A framed vintage photo of her mother (in attendance and busy crocheting) dressed in a wine-colored look rested on a mantle. Pleasingly autumnal, and a welcome break from all-black, these colors worked better as solids than when mixed. It’s hard to imagine anyone but a model being able to pull off a midi-length corset-laced skirt with mauve top and sage bottom. A moss colored straight skirt with a center-front slit, on the other hand, looked like a solid investment.Rojas is a fanatic about textiles. She developed and dyed her materials with Italian mills. Part of the appeal of her collection is its tactile quality, and the contrasting textures like buttery suedes, hair-on calf, and chunky knits. There’s a sense of hand in this line as well as softness. Tailoring is part of the line too, evidenced by some smart fur-trimmed coats. And, for a big evening, there was a navy mermaid dress made of 895 hand-crocheted squares, trimmed in black velvet ribbon. A crocheted robe jacket in blush and white could work as a cover-up or in an office.Rojas delivers polish with warmth. Her designs are women-friendly; her pieces are keepers, made by a designer who seems comfortably and happily at home in her talent.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
February 11, 2017
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
510
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,018
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“I’ve re-created the atelier here,” said Alejandra Alonso Rojas, drawing attention to the far corner of the white Lower East Side gallery space in which she presented, where three white-robed assistants were busy constructing garments. Handwork is one of the unique selling points of this feminine and personal line, run by the designer and her husband, Alejandro Sanz, and business is expanding steadily, especially among specialty boutiques.Strides are being made design-wise as well. For Fall, Alonso Rojas delivered newness not only by introducing novel materials and techniques, but by rejiggering signature pieces. Doing so creates a through line of continuity for her loyal customers. Cabled hand-knits were back, as was denim, this season as a pair of kicky culottes (which the customer can have monogrammed). The season’s custom print was inspired by Alonso Rojas’s memory of her grandmother’s wallpaper—family is the well from which the designer draws her inspiration. The gray, ethically sourced Saga fur pieces were fresh, in particular a robe coat with abbreviated sleeves to accommodate the designer’s signature chunky knits, as well as another sporty sweatshirt style. Alonso Rojas remade a heathered cotton hoodie in her own style with a draped and crisscross overlay, which she paired with a floaty, tiered print dress.Like many designers, Alonso Rojas is grappling with the disconnect between seasonality and delivery dates. “The Fall collection delivers in July, meaning that it’s summer when people are going to buy it,” she said. Instead of adopting a see-now, buy-now model, she took a more seasonless approach, focusing on layering, offering ethereal, feather-light dresses alongside furs and knits. This season, Alonso Rojas also addressed another hot topic—sustainability. The designer is known for her use of leather; having saved custom-dyed scraps from previous seasons, she found a furrier who could stitch the narrow strips together to create a buttery, flat, striped “fabric” without bulky seams on the back. It’s small but important acts like that which will forge change in the industry, and maybe the world. Brava, Alejandra.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
February 8, 2018
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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511
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,018
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Not all designers showing at New York Fashion Week are out to make a seasonal splash; such is the case with Alejandra Alonso Rojas, a designer with the courage of her convictions. “What I really want to do are timeless [pieces],” she says at a preview of her new line. “[Other] people are talking about trends; I’m doing my thing.” If that means returning to and refining a silhouette that customers responded to, so be it. Rojas has clearly defined the pillars of her brand: leather, handwork, and tailoring. A point of difference is that the designer, a fanatic about details, spends a lot of time developing fabrics (even lining materials) and colors. Spring’s lace, for example, was created at one of France’s oldest mills.Rojas finds endless inspiration in her family’s albums, making her narratives (and her clothes) very personal, though it’s not necessary to know the backstories to appreciate her designs. There is one, however, behind Rojas’s new-for-Spring prints. The collection’s joyful florals, offered in three colorways, are developed from a watercolor painting made by the designer’s mother. This has been worked up into crepe-back satin suits and used for romantic bow-tied dresses with V-backs perfect for summer weddings. There are hand-crocheted dresses that fit the body like soft gloves, and leather is combined with crochet or lace to lighten it for warm-weather wear.Rojas developed a hand-technique that can’t be replicated by machine for a series of summery smocked separates and resurrected a 1920s hand-embroidery technique for fringedmatonescarves that celebrate the designer’s Latin heritage. A shawl-inspired slip dress is named Virginia (afterVogue’s Market Director who, Rojas says, suggested the hybrid). Without looking dated, many of the pieces Rojas is showing for Spring are the sorts of things that would be a dream to find in a vintage shop, like a sleeveless fuchsia dress in suede with a whiff of seventies groove about it, a floral kimono with contrast lining, or a crochet jacket that has a grandma's-attic-meets-boho appeal. Rojas might love crochet and leather, but she’s no hippie; instead, her designs are ladylike.Still, like the rest of us, Rojas appreciates that casual clothes are a part of every woman’s wardrobe—her running-around-town uniform is Levi’s paired with her own designs—and denim makes its debut in her line this season. On offer are a yoked skirt, culottes, and a coat. She’s showing denim on its own or combined with leather. If the latter felt heavy-handed, the plain styles stand out as they don’t replicate what’s already on the market. Moreover, the culottes can be hand-embroidered with the buyer’s initials. With Rojas, everything is personal.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
September 10, 2017
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
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2,019
ready-to-wear
fall
One of the ways that Alejandra Alonso Rojas’s line is women-friendly is that it isn’t driven by trends.Disposableis not an adjective that can be applied to this designer’s work, both in terms of its make—knits are done by hand, prints and dyeing are done in-house—and the stuff it’s made of—butter-soft suedes, upcycled cashmere, supple leathers, silks, and satins. Her two-for-one reversible shearlings certainly count as investment pieces. And if you like the cut of a suit, the snugness of a bustier, or the bias drape of a skirt, you don’t have to worry that you’ll never see them again; even as Rojas develops new silhouettes, she evolves existing ones. This season, she’s rethought a best seller by cropping it from floor length to ankle length, for example.Still, there’s never a lack of newness in Rojas’s collections. “I feel I like them better every season,” she says. “They keep getting smaller but more cohesive, so I’m loving that.” The main draw for Fall 2019 is a stunning palette that’s richer and deeper than any the designer has worked with previously. There are greens that range from emerald to malachite, raspberries, reds, an irresistible burnt orange, some of which were pulled from the paintings of Tamara de Lempicka and Maruja Mallo. Rojas was unafraid to mix these, a navy-and-red suede midi was notable. Tempering these warm tones were a series of ice blue pieces. Touches of camel were representative of the equestrian theme that ran through the collection; its most obvious expression was a hand-drawn print of running horses (Rojas’s spirit animal).Rojas wanted to capture something of the unbridled freedom of a galloping steed in her Fall collection.Easewas a catchword: As she was designing evening options, like dégradé slip dresses with ’30s flair and a new bias-cut stunner with high neck and darts, she was thinking of the sort of undone glamour of a woman, sunk deep into a chair after returning home from a party. Ease is a relative concept, however. Wherever she may reside, Rojas’s woman has a rather polished, uptown sensibility, which is one of the reasons the clothes work so well in the urbane and cultured environs of Galerie Michael Bargo (its walls hung with kinetic sculptures by Luke Todd), where the lookbook images were shot.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
February 22, 2019
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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1
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
513
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
pre-fall-2019
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/alejandra-alonso-rojas
https://assets.vogue.com…-pre-fall-19.jpg
2,019
pre-fall
Things are popping for Alejandra Alonso Rojas professionally and personally. The designer, who decided to drop Spring in favor of showing three times a year so she could better focus on her strengths (read: knits, leathers, and handwork), shot her first Pre-Fall collection in the pop-up stop she opened a few weeks ago on White Street. The store has been such a success that she’s extended the lease. As if that weren’t enough to cheer about, below the designer’s flowing Botticelli curls sits a beautiful baby bump.Rojas is a designer who remains faithful to her core silhouettes, evolving them to suit the season. Lightness—and layerability—were her aims for this collection, one that had a fresh languor. There were many riffs on bias-cut slip dressing, and variations on side-draped skirts, which were offered in trailing maxi lengths. Similarly, touch-the-ground pants extended to high waists. These might be paired with crochet-and-knit midriff sweaters, or combined with a bra top and a structured single-breasted blazer, worn open for a “power” look. Adding texture to the lineup was a Mariano Fortuny–inspired plissé that Rojas plans to add to her arsenal long-term. “I think the micro pleating that is very stretchy was a little bit inspired by my pregnancy,” she said.Color is central to this designer’s process, and she’s known for developing her own tints and fabrics. The atelier, says Rojas, became a veritable lab for Pre-Fall as she and the team employed turmeric, blackberries, indigo, red cabbage, and flowers to create hand-treated textiles, like lengths of ombre-yellows and a whispery petal print. The palette was inspired by the landscapes of Joaquín Sorolla and the Rose and Blue periods of Pablo Picasso. Pinned to Rojas’s mood board, next to photos of her mother andabuela, was Picasso’sMaternité, depicting a nursing mother. (This was even before Rojas knew she was expecting.) For this designer, circularity is everything; each collection starts and ends with her family and her Spanish roots.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
December 4, 2018
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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0
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
514
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
resort-2019
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/alejandra-alonso-rojas
https://assets.vogue.com…sort-2019-pr.jpg
2,019
resort
“I really put myself into this collection,” said Alejandra Alonso Rojas at her Resort debut. It was her biggest offering to date, and it showed the designer in top form. As always, these clothes were inspired by her native country; in this case her focus was on Andalucía, where the sun always shines and where jasmine, bluebells, and vibrant bougainvillea bloom brightly. The land and its flowers were reflected in the collection’s seven hand-painted prints and its palette of reds, plums, and teals, balanced with creamy, soft pastels.Having decided to skip the Spring season in favor of Resort, which is longest on the selling floor, Rojas put a lot of focus on varying weights that could accommodate regional differences, striking a balance between lightness and materiality. An ethereal macramé and tulle Degas dress mingled with a blush-colored reversible shearling robe coat and chunky knits. Rojas consistently includes “keepers” in her collections, special handcrafted pieces made of fine materials that are trend-resistant without being boring or basic (see: an asymmetrical, patchworked hand-knit sweater dress in shades of gray). The designer is also increasingly embracing sustainability. Here, she introduced a 100 percent cashmere made of recycled fibers she developed with an Italian mill. “I want to keep pushing every category each season. Once I’ve nailed one it’s like, ‘OK, what crazy idea can we have now?’ ” says Rojas. Defined by its femininity and focused on detail, from custom colors to crest-stamped buttons, Rojas’s work is, above all, personal.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
June 1, 2018
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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0
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
515
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,020
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fall
Alejandra Alonso Rojas made her runway debut for fall 2020. It seemed a logical step since she was a CFDA/VogueFashion Fund finalist last year. The catwalk, understandably, has a magic allure for a designer—there’s nothing like seeing clothes on a body in motion—but it’s not the right format for everyone or for every collection, as was evident today. It’s not that Rojas’s show wasn’t successful; it was, especially at demonstrating what a beautiful colorist she is, but it lacked the sense of hands-on warmth the designer brings to garments shown in hues that look good enough to eat and textures that invite touch.When Rojas launched her line, knits, suedes, shearlings, and leathers were her calling card. More recently natural dyeing has become another brand signature. For fall she hand-rolled lengths of silk with rose, eucalyptus, and hibiscus leaves, then steamed and froze them. The result? Lovely one-of-a-kind lengths of “petal embedded” yardage. There’s no denying the absolute prettiness of the liquid slip dresses Rojas made from the fabric, but what would have impressed in a presentation became repetitive on the runway. And this is mainly because this was a fabric and color story, rather than an exploration of shape or silhouette.Many of the designer’s coveted hand-knits were spotted in the front row; standouts on the catwalk included a multicolored patchwork sweater and a solid one with knitted ribbon streamers. Rojas also successfully translated one of her main inspirations, a 1960s photograph of her aunt wrapped in a scarf, into the collection’s hero(ine) look (26): a fantastically fluid floral slip dress topped with a dramatic hand-knit, one-armed fringed evening wrap. The effect was superchic, superpersonal, a bit cozy—in other words, quintessential AAR.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
February 12, 2020
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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0
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
516
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
https://assets.vogue.com…-Spring-2020.jpg
2,020
ready-to-wear
spring
Alejandra Alonso Rojas is by no means an under-the-radar designer. Instagram reveals that there exists a close-knit circle of Rojas-ites, and her clever hand-knits have been knocked off by fast-fashion chains. Still, this can only be described as a blockbuster year for the designer. A brief chronology of how her stars aligned goes something like this: Beyoncé called and wanted to buy a suit. Rojas gave birth to her first child, the adorable Alonso. She was named a CFDA/Voguefinalist. And Kim Kardashian West wore Rojas’s pomegranate red silk gown in the May 2019 issue ofVogue. Wow.Rojas might now be described as a girl on fire, but the designer and her work have always had a relatable warmth. It’s one that lends itself to intimate settings. For Spring, Rojas presented her collection amid the bohemian splendor of Aurora Lopez Mejia’s studio. The designer’s cloud white sweater with pearls woven into the twisted collar was quite at home among the artist/jeweler’s treasures and baubles.Rojas evolves, rather than abandons, past designs; new for Spring were shawl and draped details on her favored suit and dress silhouettes. The palette was sun-bleached and beachy. The main wellspring of Rojas’s inspiration is her own family; she cast her net a bit further this season, traveling through her native Spain to visit Salvador Dalí’s house, following the trail of artist’s muses, like Gala Dalí and Françoise Gilot, who made appearances on her inspiration board. Ultimately, this show didn’t have or need a narrative. “I’m really just celebrating women, our beautiful bodies, minds and souls, and how strong we are,” Rojas said. “Turning into a mom really made me realize that.”A hand-drawn print of abstracted female forms was the most direct communication of her theme, but it was also there in the subtle ombre of natural dyes, the whisper-softness of suede, the cozy warmth of a hand-knit, the peekaboo allure of a crochet dress, the crispness of a white cotton bell sleeve. All expressed the “casual luxury” Rojas aims for.The looks were shown on mannequins arranged in lifelike poses: One lolled on a Rococo daybed; another had her arms thrown out with joy, a scarf dripping from her fingers. The designer herself wore a sleeveless, color-block suede dress from the new collection, which reinforced how personal Rojas’s work is. It was also a reminder that only flesh-and-blood women—like the ones the designer was inspired by—can bring clothes to life.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
September 10, 2019
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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517
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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All of Alejandra Alonso Rojas’s work celebrates her Spanish heritage in some way. As she was creating this collection in New York, the designer was longing for her home country (the pandemic makes traveling there complicated), and included elements of what she calls “Spanish nostalgia” into the line-up through her vibrant palette, use of fringe, and, for the first time, polka-dots.Coming from Spain, she said on a call, polka-dots were ubiquitous, but she shied away from using them before, in part for fear of making a too-literal reference to Flamenco dancers. “Even though I’m so inspired by those beautiful ruffles and beautiful silhouettes, and they’re so feminine, I wanted to use something more modern,” she said. To do so she created her own dotted print using watercolors and avoided ruffles.Though labeled fall, this upbeat collection reads like spring. While Rojas isn’t explicitly working on the see-now, buy-now model, she wants her designs to correspond more closely to the time in which they are delivered to stores, in this case during June and July. The designer sat out a season last year to reconsider her business plan. Deliveries is an area in which Rojas is trying to be more mindful about her impact, another is sustainability. To avoid unnecessary production, this season Rojas produced only the pieces that are shown in the look book, meaning there are no “commercial” pieces or runs in every fabrication back in the studio, though buyers will still be able to customize their orders.Rojas applied a responsible approach to her designs as well. Of particular note are pieces made using a new technique in which leftover fabric is cut into bias strips and hand-crocheted into sweaters and dresses that release into fringe at the hem.Hand knits are a pillar of the brand, and Rojas revisited a shawl top, reimagining it as a one-shouldered dress, and worked it using a garter stitch so the material wouldn’t have a distinct front and back. For fall there are also sweaters with horizontal cables, and a crochet with dimensional dots. Further building on the polka-dot theme, Rojas developed circular patterns that were used to make pieces like slim pants and a bolero that drape softly when worn.Rojas likes a bit of drama in the form of a long sleeve or floor-trailing fringe, but she resisted such impulses for fall, keeping practicality in mind when reworking popular dress patterns to make them shorter and more viable as day-to-night options that retain their chic. “If I can add some elements that make your life easier, why not?” the designer mused.Inspired by photos of her stylishabuelain pants and a suit, Rojas’s stated intention was to play the feminine off the masculine this season, using tailoring to signal the latter, and shoulder pads to convey strength. Yet the soft pieces, clever knits and draped dresses—like a pink slip that Rojas took from her own closet and remade for the collection, and a caramel and white dot “Pretty Woman” frock—held the most power.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
March 1, 2021
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
518
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,022
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Many things old are new again in fashion, and not just in terms of inspirations. The made-to-order business model is getting a rethink, for example, and so is the salon-style presentation. Alejandra Alonso Rojas invited guests to tea at Cipriani House, and models walked slowly among the round tables as a pianist played. This was a more literal expression of slow fashion than Rojas usually employs.Hand-knits are the core of her business, and from the start the designer has been working with a group of Ukrainian knitters in the States to execute her luxurious designs. Rojas dedicated her show to them, and only proceeded with the event with their blessing.Against a backdrop of dark wood and patterned carpet, the presentation opened with a Halstonesque knit dress in mauve that was cut low in the back and with a thread-thin metal chain zig-zagging up the side. In the 1970s many designers were in thrall to the 1930s, and there was a feeling of that decade in the tailored pajama looks and slender silhouettes here. A hand-drawn zebra print conjured El Morocco, a swanky club of the ’30s. The deco feeling was heightened by the surroundings; Rojas, who has mastered the art of the slip dress, said that her mood board actually featured lots of spare 1990s looks.Because of their tactility and colors—this season in a citrusy sorbet palette—Rojas’s pieces never read as minimal in the sense of cool or neutral. This also has to do with her typical focus on ease. The predominance of evening looks for fall is based on customers’ requests for dressy pieces that are also non-constricting. Some of the after-dark looks had both vacation and red-carpet vibes; Rojas is still finding her way here.The newest developments were the chain details and the use of fine gauge knits. A semi-transparent red dress that fit like a body stocking was of a different stripe than the brand’s more dense, and often fringed, knits and crochets.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
March 17, 2022
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
519
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
pre-fall-2022
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2022/alejandra-alonso-rojas
https://assets.vogue.com…credit-brand.jpg
2,022
pre-fall
The calm serenity of the beach in late summer inspired a dynamic collection from Alejandra Alonso Rojas. Carried over from spring were bias-dyed slip dresses in sunset hues, while the customizable drawstring of that season’s dramatic parachute gown was transferred to a colorful cocktail dress. “This energy just got into me, and I really needed a creative escape,” said Rojas.The news here is the evening looks, like a hand-draped stretch silk dress that “holds you like a bathing suit on top” and releases into a floaty skirt. For land-locked—and body-confident—mermaids there is a hand-crocheted dégradé gown. From a feather-like silk fabric Rojas had in her nest of a studio came a flirty shorts suit and a look-at-me-after-dark dress. A smocked, off-the-shoulder cocktail number combined comfort and chic, a welcome combination for dress-up occasions.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
December 17, 2021
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
520
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,022
ready-to-wear
spring
Pace is a concept that gets overlooked in fashion. Somewhere along the way, change became synonymous with speed, to the detriment of the industry and the environment. Maybe if fewer products were made, more creativity and care could be put into them. Change needn’t be fast, and it never has been at Alejandra Alonso Rojas, where consistency is valued.Each season the designer iterates or builds on what has come before and what customers have reacted positively to. And Rojas’s well of inspiration is always the same; her own family albums and history. In the spotlight for spring is a great-great-aunt África Llamas, who in 1931, during the Second Spanish Republic, became one of the country’s first female pilots. “I just wanted to take a little adventure on her plane,” says Rojas of her thought process.The collection contains a dramatic ombre parachute dress, and leather aviator caps were made and used for styling, but Rojas otherwise abstracted her theme. The main story here are the feel-good primary colors. Some of these were hand-dyed using the Shibori technique (stones are wrapped with string into the fabric; the result is a kind of halo). A red and blue slip dress, as cool looking as a Firecracker popsicle, was tie-dyed on the bias.Knits and crochets are Rojas’s specialties, and she’s creative in finding inventive ways to play with them. For spring there’s a one-sleeve cable-knit sweater with a long “hem” of fringe, and a touch-me camel hair boucle fabric that’s soft and stretchy. The light-as-air crochets feel especially of the season and of the moment. The summer of 2021 has been about bra-tops and skin. These deliver both and leave one looking forward to the summer to come.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
September 8, 2021
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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1
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
521
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
https://assets.vogue.com…dit-gorunway.jpg
2,023
ready-to-wear
fall
In a season when many designers are focused on groundedness, Alejandra Alonso Rojas moved in the opposite direction, looking to the sky, specifically the Northern Lights, for inspiration. Rojas has always been drawn to “dopamine” colors, but after several seasons’ surfeit of blinding brights like Pink PP, it was the pastels in this collection—a lilac coat, a blush slip dress worn with a luxurious cashmere sweater in a matching hue—that most drew the eye.The celestial inspiration was evident in the first looks, that were night-sky black or metallic. “We really wanted a flash of evening crochet on the runway” said the designer. Gilding the lily, a gold knotted dress had diamante detailing at the back. The drama of a carnation red column was also in the pleated bows not visible from the front.The show was presented at Casino restaurant on the Lower East Side and the set up was charming, but it was difficult to imagine many of the pieces being worn to a dinner there: they were too dressy, too much, in many cases. AAR’s roots are in knitwear and leathers. Evening wear is a relatively new category, and according to the designer, a booming one. The choice to create satin slips to compliment see-through crochet was nice, but as lovely as an ice-dye or dramatic as a parachute train are, there were many iterations on silhouettes and techniques we’ve seen here before. It’s great to have signatures you stick to, but it’s trickier when the pieces aren’t necessarily wardrobe staples. On top of that, crochet and macramé are to be found in many collections these days. Admirably, Rojas remains committed to slow fashion; there was a lot of hand work in her pieces.Backstage, the designer spoke of the layers of energy and emotions around all of us, and the relationships we have with each other. For many seasons the mining of her family history was her primary inspiration. That remained here, but not as overtly. It turned out that the stripes on a silken skirt with a crochet insert referenced those on the designer’s parents’ bedspread that she remembered from childhood. “It’s something really meaningful for me,” said Rojas. That look felt authentic and close to home in a way that the dressier pieces did not.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
February 12, 2023
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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0
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
522
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
pre-fall-2023
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,023
pre-fall
Alejandra Alonso Rojas, by way of her young son, has been paying particular attention to space, planets, and constellations. While she was designing this pre-fall 2023 collection, the first images from NASA’s James Webb Space Telescope were released. She was particulary taken with Webb’s breathtaking visual of the star-forming region known as the Carina Nebula. Its navy blue background with ochre, orange, and brownish hues in the foreground influenced Rojas’s color palette and textile treatments.This season, Rojas decided to expand on her eveningwear offering, based on market demand. Her signature silky slips and crochet silhouettes feel familiar and lived-in, with a tactile quality. Take look 6, a slip with a diagonal crochet panel inset at the right-side waist. The panel resembles a doily, “kind of like the lace tableware in Spain I grew up with,” she said. Continuing that homey narrative, Rojas widened the scope of her hand-dyeing story from dip-dyes (still present in some of her evening wear) to ice-dyeing. “The kitchen was a mess after, but they look so cool, like the layered explosions of color you’d see in the Aurora Borealis,” she said, adding that this is something she’ll carry into fall. The cashmere sweater in look 11 is a preview of what’s to come.Tactility is a Rojas strongsuit. She’s building a cashmere program, which feels timely considering how trendy the yarn has become—Gigi Hadid and Brad Pitt have both recently launched cashmere labels. More compelling, however, was the addition of a limited-run of Japanese denim in a dark navy shade. The roughness of the denim—used in a few details spread throughout the lineup, as well as for a pair of jeans and a striking puffer jacket—added a layer of interest to the sweetness of Rojas’s clothes. On the larger pieces embroidered with zodiac constellations in Swarovski crystals, there was a welcome tension between the toughness of their canvas and the naivete of her motifs. This is a space Rojas could explore further; when she experiments with imperfection her pieces acquire more nuance.
José Criales-Unzueta
January 12, 2023
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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0
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
523
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,023
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spring
Alejandra Alonso Rojas hosted her spring 2023 runway show at Verōnika, the upscale restaurant at the Fotografiska Museum on Park Avenue South. From the choice of venue to the chilled champagne and crisp cudités, the experience was all about the intimacy and elegance Rojas has continued to build over the years.Rojas collaborated with artist Philippine de Richemont for the season. The opening look, a beautifully made corset featuring one of the artist’s prints paired with a rainbow fringe crocheted skirt, set the color palette and mood for the collection: Romantic, joyful, and uplifting. “I was thinking about the collection as a blank canvas,” Rojas said after the show, “she’s in movement, her body, her beautiful curves, so with Philippine we created this almost camouflage print of women moving and dancing.” Rojas was also inspired by ’90s models and portraits of them by the likes of Richard Avedon. In this context, her slip dresses and other silky sheaths felt even more special.One thing that Rojas excels at is consistency. Silks and knits are her chosen medium, and season after season she explores different avenues to make them feel fresh. This time around, ombré dyes, prints, and crystals lifted her silhouettes and provided novelty within familiarity. But when she went to less explored territory, like an asymmetrical fringe cable knit sweater or a delicious dress with voluminous flair created by paneling on the abdomen, the collection found more grounding and fullness. Her knits remain one of her strongest suits—a navy blue crystal-embellished crocheted slip was particularly striking, and where she combined her silks and knits in the same place she found new ground to explore in the future. Novelty also came in the shape of silk trousers with side pockets, almost resembling cargos or jeans, which she said were informed by her desire to continue to give her multifaceted woman pieces to complete her wardrobe.There’s opportunity here for Rojas to remain consistent while continuing to find places where her language translates; she certainly has the hand to do so.
José Criales-Unzueta
September 12, 2022
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
524
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,024
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fall
On the last day of New York Fashion Week, designer Alejandra Alonso Rojas wanted to relieve some of the fashion chaos with a collection that was both peaceful and calming. “The whole concept behind it was grounding,” Rojas says. “I’ve been meditating a lot and enjoying the feeling of quietness.” That being said, Rojas didn’t want to put her showgoers to sleep: She also infused her fall line with sprightly accents like strong colors and whimsical prints, inspired by her love of the energy in the city. “I cannot live without it,” she said. “I really wanted to represent that in the collection too.”Known best for dresses and knitwear, Rojas put new spins on both wardrobe staples this season. Long-sleeve silk gowns were designed in pastel tie-dyes; the silky slip dresses had splashes of tulle as well as an allover earthy tree print. “It’s almost like [what you see] when you’re laying down, and you see all of the leaves moving,” Rojas said. Continuing with this idea of a centering in nature, Rojas also created several pieces in leafy prints—be it a sequined suit, or a ruched dress with a high slit. “I picked up leaves from my house, and we hammered them in silk to create these beautiful leaf prints,” she said.But it was Rojas’s experimentations with tailoring and outerwear that proved a real standout; The categories are something she’s sparsely explored in the past few seasons. Her herringbone suits and jackets featured subtle gold threading in them, and the insides were lined with silk in the same leaf prints as her dresses. The details were just special enough to give them some individuality. She also had sleek leather trenches and shaggy shearling coats in the mix. “It’s one of the collections with the most fabrications that I’ve ever done,” Rojas said.The designer envisions her customer breaking up all these pieces and incorporating them in a more casual, nonchalant way. One of her main references for the styling was Carrie Bradshaw, wearing a big fur coat and silky dress: Rojas envisions her women mix-and-matching her new fall staples in that signature Carrie way. “I’ve been watching the whole ofSex and the City,” Rojas said. “That was the vibe: You’re dressed up, but you don’t need to be perfectly put together. Embrace your natural beauty and take on the world.”
Christian Allaire
February 14, 2024
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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0
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
525
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,024
ready-to-wear
spring
The sound of rolling waves opened the spring collection of Alejandra Alonso Rojas: The designer, who is from Spain, looked to the French Riviera and Menorca for inspiration this season. “I spend every summer there,” said Rojas. “It really brings me peace, and I’m always inspired by the landscapes.” The designer fell in love with the style of Menorca natives, and she wanted to put her stamp on vacation-ready pieces in a way that felt both elevated and unexpected. To do so, she zeroed in on two specific eras—beachwear from the ’30s, and minimalism from the ’90s—to create a melange of clothes that felt retro, yet current. (The bookLiving Well Is the Best Revengeby Calvin Tomkins also ignited her obsession with the idea of traveling to the past; it’s set in 1920s France.)You could see these distinct references as clear as the Mediterranean Sea in some of the looks. A white crocheted tank dress featured a drop-waist fringed hemline (more ’20s flapper girl than ’30s), and it felt beachy yet sleek. The same goes for the cotton-linen suit vest and wide-leg trousers. The silky red dress with a sarong-style waist, and the silky shirt and shorts in a blue ombré treatment, both drew from the colors of those famous Menorca sunsets. “I named the blues after beaches there,” said Rojas. Instead of her usual assortment of signaturesilk dresses for evening, the designer said she gravitated towards more casual daywear this time around. “It’s about the freedom of summer, and being comfortable and sexy at the same time,” she said. But there was also something easy and polished about her dressier frocks, too, like the opening squared-neck LBD with thin straps.Given that a signature element of Rojas’s work is her dip-dyed silks, she had to deliver some printed dresses as well—and they, too, had an elevated twist for spring. The designer grew up loving the work of Menorca painter David Monrós, and she decided to channel his approach to painting into her own creative process. “He painted with fish, so I painted with real fish then pressed them onto silks in this collection,” she said. The result was slinky one-shouldered dresses or floor-length tank dresses covered in abstract octopus, fish, and squid prints. Another new territory for Rojas this season was embellishments; The designer played with embroidering shells, beads, and pearls onto her looks in subtle ways. A sweet little strapless blue mini dress, ruched along the bust, had a top hemline encrusted in little shells. “It’s kind of like finding treasures on the beach,” she said. The concept of vacation wear may not be groundbreaking for spring, but Rojas made successful attempts to infuse some newness into it.
Christian Allaire
September 11, 2023
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
526
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
resort-2024
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,024
resort
Alejandra Alonso Rojas poured her love of the sun and beach into her resort collection, tacking images of shells, seaside family photos, and ’90s supermodels in swimsuits to her mood board. There they shared space with snaps of Salvador Dalí and Surrealist art—which explains the melting clock and lip-shaped sofa in the look book. The draped set was also a nod to the interiors of Dalí’s home in Cadaqués, Spain, which Rojas has visited. “I was going back to all of these memories of our trip,” said the designer. “I started exploring the different shapes in Dalí’s artwork, all of the colors…. I felt like it was a world of endless possibilities.”While the Surrealists probed the subconscious and surfaced it in their art, Rojas instead dove into the sea, rising to the surface with underwater treasures and mythical creatures. A spray of coral-like fabric festoons the strap of a reef-like crochet dress, and a red bias-cut number has a delicate coral bead detail. Handmade marble prints capture the textures of the sea, and an iridescent laminated denim (a welcome option for day) its shimmer. Likewise, allover silver sequins on a made-for-holidays pantsuit recall the scales of fish. The inclusion of on-trend mermaid dresses was not forced but rather extended the overall aquatic theme of the offering. The silhouette also plays into the sinuous dresses the designer is known for.AAR staples like crochet-and-leather combinations reappear here, but most compelling was the way the designer translated her best-selling drawstring slip dress from satin into a cashmere. It’s a piece that can be self-styled (ruched or not) and dressed up or down. The ease of it seemed to capture the mood emanating from the images of Dalí on the beach that she pinned to her board and made me wonder what an AAR collection inspired by the Surrealist’s casual personal style, rather than his art, might look like.
Laird Borrelli-Persson
June 13, 2023
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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527
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,025
ready-to-wear
spring
When designer Alejandra Alonso Rojas was researching venues for her New York Fashion Week spring show, she toured the New-York Historical Society on the Upper West Side—and was instantly drawn to the giant Picasso painting inside it, titledLe Tricorne. “It’s inspired by Andalusia, which so happens to be the theme of my whole collection,” said Rojas. It was a sign: The designer ended up showing in the grand building today, with the Picasso serving as the backdrop of her new runway assortment, all dedicated to highlighting Spanish culture and craftsmanship.While Rojas’s signature dresses always pay homage to her native country in some way, the new spring offering zeroed in on the unique color palette of Andalusia, including lemon yellows, dusty blues, and rosé pinks. She also felt drawn to the more soft, fluid silhouettes that many women wear in the region: “the construction of their dresses, and how fluidly they move.” You could certainly see that in one of her opening dresses, a bright-yellow chiffon number with big flowers along the left shoulder. “All our our flowers were handmade in the garment district,” said Rojas. There was also a sense of ease and movement in her silky champagne-colored suit, paired with bra tops and espadrilles that were crocheted and hand-painted in Menorca.Given that the line was a love letter to Andalusia, Rojas also wanted to capture the unique handwork artisans do in the region. “It’s an area of Spain that has a lot of craftsmanship, especially with laces and embroideries,” said Rojas. “Over the summer I met these women from Galicia, and they do one of the oldest lace [styles] in the world, called Camariñas.” Their lacework—which is done by hand, using bobbins and pins—was applied as front panels onto Rojas’s silky shift dresses, an elegant fusion of the old with the modern. Broderie anglaise, a needlework technique, was also applied as trim on her fitted corset tops.The national flower of Spain, red carnations, appeared as prints on the designer’s ruffled white skirts and halter-style minidresses. The graphic print was achieved by stamping flowers with acrylic paint onto her fabrics, then printing it. In a sea of different inspirations and references during Fashion Week, Rojas’s commitment to highlighting her own roots remains a sweet constant.
Christian Allaire
September 11, 2024
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
528
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
resort-2025
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,025
resort
At a resort appointment, Alejandra Alonso Rojas admitted she was feeling homesick for Madrid—the city in which she was born, and where much of her family still resides. To counter that feeling of longing, she created a resort collection paying homage to the Spanish capital. “I really had Madrid in my head, and the first thing that came to mind was the blue sky,” she said. “It’s a very particular blue. That’s how I started building out the whole collection.”To help shape her palette, Rojas looked at some of her favorite paintings at Madrid’s Prado Museum (including “Las Meninas” by Diego Velázquez) and referenced the bright pink outfits worn by bullfighters. She translated the bright hues into some of her effortless silhouettes—the highlight being a breezy dress that floats off the body with ease. A sky-blue style, with a ruched off-the-shoulder neckline, felt silky to the touch; you’d never guess it was jersey.Standout silk long- and short-sleeve dresses were tie-dyed using a special shibori technique. “You fold the silk over a pipe, wrap it with a cord, then dump it into the dye,” said Rojas. For a classic black V-neck dress she created a subtle watercolor print of Botero sculptures, which Madrid visitors can see upon arrival at the airport. “It says Madrid, but in a very subtle way,” she explained. The print gave just enough visual interest to the otherwise-timeless piece.There was a sense of ease even in Rojas’s more difficult cuts, including the leather maxi dress with crochet paneling on the skirt. For the first time, she also created breezy caftans. Her inspiration? Stylish Madrid locals, naturally. “I was thinking about all of the really chic and sophisticated women in Spain,” said Rojas. “There’s always a natural elegance.”
Christian Allaire
June 5, 2024
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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0
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
0
529
Alessandra Rich
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…66.1366x2048.JPG
2,013
ready-to-wear
fall
Should you ever have the opportunity to meet Alessandra Rich, you will undoubtedly agree that she does not seem like a lunatic. But her weird and wonderful new collection of eveningwear made it abundantly clear that she must have a screw or two loose, somewhere. It was even nuttier than her last collection, which was inspired by two imaginary Russian gymnasts. This time out, Rich effected a meeting of the minds among Scarlett O'Hara, Miss Havisham, and Nancy Spungen, if they'd all found themselves working at the Moulin Rouge in Paris at the turn of the twentieth century. There were about a hundred different kinds of French lace, some of it mesh, some of it metallic, some of it leopard-spot patterned. In other words, if Helena Bonham Carter got it into her head to design a collection, it could very well look like this one. And in other, other words, it was strangely awesome.
Maya Singer
March 1, 2013
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
544
Alessandra Rich
spring-2013-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…01.1366x2048.JPG
2,013
ready-to-wear
spring
"I didn't watch any of the Olympics! I swear!" So claimed London-based designer Alessandra Rich as she showed her presentation by appointment today. You had to wonder whether Rich had, in fact, gotten deeply into the Games, inasmuch as her new collection riffed on those ludicrous yet amazing leotards that Olympic gymnasts wear. But, no: The designer affirmed that her collection was inspired by a lot of thinking about Russian girls. Rich gave her girls names—Olga and Irina—and a backstory that saw the merging of the iconic Russian female gymnast and the (now equally) iconic Russian jet-set glamour girl. It was an oddball starting point for a collection, but it worked.Rich's chicest interpretations of her Olga-meets-Irina concept were her leotard-inspired dresses with floor-length full skirts. The silhouette felt fresh for evening—insouciant, yet formal. A black lace dress with a full skirt ought to get a decent amount of play on the red carpet. Elsewhere, the designer's punchiest take on her theme was undoubtedly her stretchy pencil dresses emblazoned with flame and lightning-bolt designs. Girls who wear these out are going to have a lot of fun; then again, the girls who'd want to wear these dresses are probably fun already. There were other fine looks in this collection—though Rich specializes in dresses, her silk-satin tuxedo jumpsuit suggested that she ought to develop more tailoring—and her lace tunic dresses helped to vary the collection's generally body-con silhouette. But there were some misfires, too: a gaudy bright pink lace column dress, for instance, and dresses dappled with crystal embroidery. But when Rich stuck to her instincts to keep things graphic and clean, her looks were definite winners. Gold-medal-worthy, you might say.
Maya Singer
October 1, 2012
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
545
Alessandra Rich
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…66.1366x2048.JPG
2,014
ready-to-wear
fall
Perfect is so overrated. "I love it when there's something a little bit wrong," said Alessandra Rich of a Fall collection that she dubbed Bad Reputation.The designer's mix of well-intentioned chic meets girl-gone-bad came through in big bows, duchesse silk, taffeta, and a prim georgette top-half of a dress with a transparent black skirt in Chantilly lace. That fabric is a big Rich signature, and this season she used it to walk on the wild side, working it in layers, patchworks, panels, and inserts, or simply as a long, front-slit overskirt veiling a negligee miniskirt. "Not only is lace very feminine, but I love that you look at it once, then you realize you don't understand, so you have to look again," she noted. Elsewhere in the collection, she created a psychedelic vibe in bold swathes of purple and gold on white stretch cady.Rich's silhouette, like the designer herself, is long and lean. This time she reined in her palette mainly to black and white to focus on exploring asymmetry and an amped-up mix of fabrics—sometimes as many as fourteen on a single dress. Touches of marabou and sparkle rounded out the story: The cheekiest number had a see-through bodice with strategically placed discs of firework embroidery over the breasts. "She's definitely a party girl, but she doesn't think in terms of occasions," Rich said, describing her muse. "She doesn't care about a bad reputation. She just wants to have fun."
Tina Isaac-Goizé
March 1, 2014
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
546
Alessandra Rich
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…66.1366x2048.JPG
2,014
ready-to-wear
spring
The Alessandra Rich look is very, very specific: Rich makes fancy clothes in essentially one long and lean silhouette. She uses lots of lace and is a fan of the ruffle. Given that Rich's aesthetic is so narrowly defined, it's really quite impressive that she manages to refresh it each season. This collection was a case in point: Riffing on Rumi's love poetry, she conjured a vaguely mystic vibe, with a whiff of seventies boho to it. The most immediately appealing looks were spangled with stars; others somehow defied you with their charm, including a high-necked, multiply ruffled pastel floral gown. In another designer's hands, those same elements would have come together looking like something a Lawrence Welk backup singer would have worn once upon a time, but Rich made it work. For the right woman, anyway—these clothes are not for everyone.Elsewhere in the collection, Rich stretched her vocabulary a bit by introducing dresses that looked like long, lace polo shirts, and others with a salwar kameez feel, which were worn over sheer silk pants. Another innovation: dresses that looked like two pieces, a crop top and a skirt; in fact, they were joined together by a narrow band of nude-toned tulle. It bears saying again: This tactic could have gone badly wrong, in aDancing With the Starskind of way. But Rich made the stars dance for her instead. God knows how.
Maya Singer
September 28, 2013
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
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547
Alessandra Rich
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
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2,015
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fall
Want a lacy party dress? For the past few years the Italian-born, London-based designer Alessandra Rich has been a go-to source for such things. She specializes in a long, narrow silhouette, sometimes belted and usually at least partially see-through (the better to showcase the lace, not the legs, she insists, though we suppose visible thigh doesn't hurt). Not even the most inveterate party girls wear lace all the time, however, so Rich has been branching out. Last season it was rickrack-trim high-waist jeans, which were cute but possibly too far from her after-dark specialty. So she tried something a bit closer to home for Fall: black crepe dresses with cutout bodices worn over cropped, ribbed-knit sweaters. And they clicked. Shearling jackets with a bejeweled chain print circling the hem were of interest, too.Of course, dresses remained the main event. The black lace versions were lovingly pieced together from swatches of Chantilly and jacquard, their godet pleats giving them a gentle bit of swing at the mid-calf hem. But the real beauties this season came in white or black silk charmeuse with a languid, 1930s bias cut of the kind showcased at the Jeanne Lanvin retrospective that just went up at the Palais Galliera. In an effort to modernize their soigné, slightly vintage silhouettes, Rich showed them with the new jeweled belts that she's offering for the first time (she had chain-strap bucket bags, as well). The dresses looked even more elegant solo.
Nicole Phelps
March 7, 2015
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
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548
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spring-2015-ready-to-wear
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2,015
ready-to-wear
spring
Fashion is as obsessed as ever with looking backward for inspiration, but its attentions are mostly focused on the 1970s this season. Dressmaker Alessandra Rich's decision to revisit the '80s puts her in a category pretty much her own for Spring. Reference points likeDynastyand the daytime soap operaSanta Barbaradidn't exactly set expectations soaring today. It's a tribute to Rich's taste that she made the big collars and even bigger ruffles we associate with those TV shows look right again. A lot of it has to do with proportions. Rich's silhouette remains as long and lean as the day she started. This season she added sash-like belts with mother-of-pearl buckles to the look, but the shoulder pads one also associates with the '80s stayed tucked away in the time machine, thankfully.Rich has a great eye for fabrics: black organza with shimmering fil coupe flowers, a hand-painted silk dévoré. While she made a concerted effort to expand beyond the lace she's known for, she didn't avoid it entirely, and that's a good thing. A trio of fitted Chantilly numbers with contrasting ribbons of passementerie trimming the edges, seams, and pockets à la vintage Chanel suits were among the best pieces in the collection. A surprise: the derriere-enhancing high-waist jeans with rickrack around the waistband and pockets that were showed with off-the-shoulder bodysuits. This savvy outing should encourage Rich to keep developing her repertoire beyond her ever-desirable party dresses.
Nicole Phelps
September 28, 2014
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
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549
Alessandra Rich
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
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2,016
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Oh, what a difference a season makes. Where the unapologetic ruffles and shirred flou ofAlessandra Rich’s runaway bride from Spring felt, at times, a little too over the top, her femme fatale for Fall 2016 ran away to Asia in search of some trouble, and ended up arriving right at the zeitgeist of bad-taste-good-taste garments that girls want to wear right now.The collection, called Bye Bye Kitty (as innotHello Kitty) was shown at Lapérouse, the famed one-time house of ill-repute, and was all about the loss of innocence that occurs between girlhood and full-blown womanhood. Before you crack an inevitable joke about Britney Spears’s lyrics, Rich beat you to it, with show notes that began with a verse by Miley Cyrus:Decision, between a family or a porn star / Humble life or sports cars, liver or the whole bar / Headache for my management, gossip columns resident / Your mom and dad might hate me but in 5 years I'm the president.(That is from a song called “Decisions,” by the way.)And so from the inspiration of an imaginary girl Rich described as a “hot mess” came a collection that was anything but. Super-short velvet dresses with lace hems lifted from the lingerie drawer hung next to transparent cheongsam-inspired gowns, frilly lace frocks with ruffled skirts, and a clutch of chubby patchworked faux-fur coats. Alongside the ultra-desirable party dresses, a smattering of tasseled minaudières in tweed, suede, and snakeskin—sling-it-on-and-don’t-think-twice party necessities—were a stroke of genius. Long pleated dresses with velvet collars and Chinese button knots (most appealing in floral print) and a few brightly colored tweed trench coats should please more conservative customers, but above all, this was fun, sexy, and the right kind of young.
Alessandra Codinha
March 5, 2016
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
550
Alessandra Rich
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…-rtw-2016-01.jpg
2,016
ready-to-wear
spring
For Spring,Alessandra Richunveiled an unabashedly feminine collection dubbed Dolores, after an invented South American heroine, one whose wardrobe for her romantic escapades is punctuated by expanses of lace; frilled, fluted hems; and large, poufy sleeves worn off the shoulder. “The story is of a girl who runs away to get married,” said Rich at an appointment off the Rue Saint-Honoré, characteristically charming and wearing one of the gold heart—accented belts that accessorized the runway looks. “It’s probably a bad idea, but she does it anyway.”And she does it in style: An excellent waist-whittling trenchcoat in silk moiré was offered in three colorways (black, white, and fuchsia) and proved just the ticket for a dramatic escape from disapproving parents and friends. The wedding festivities would be celebrated in bow-topped tiers of fluffy white lace. “She is definitely a girl in love,” purred Rich, and it shows; party dresses came in pleated, cutout, off-the-shoulder lamé or as a series of paillette-bedecked wiggle gowns with trumpet hems, while a number of silk rompers were deployed for their lingerie codas (one plunging cream tie-accented dress was very Bianca Jagger). But among all of the exuberance, it was the selection of seriously good denim (the use of the textile being a first for Rich) jackets, body-conscious dresses, and sleek jumpsuits that just might prove to outlast the honeymoon period. After all, as every girl knows, flash can be fun, but strong and steady often ends up winning the day.
Alessandra Codinha
October 3, 2015
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
551
Alessandra Rich
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…rich-fw-2017.jpg
2,017
ready-to-wear
fall
Like Richie, Alessandra Rich has a surname that telegraphs endless decadence untempered by discretion. Unlike Richie, Alessandra boasts a wealth of tasteful discretion, while remaining true to her core USP of ravishing dresses garnished by flourish. Today, in a fine apartment on Avenue Victor-Hugo that showcased the absolutely elevated but undeniably realistic context Rich designs for, she generously treated this over-appointmented correspondent to a presentation with an audience of just two; the designer, the writer, and the hunched-over-her-phone silent party stuck to her charging point in the corner.Printed ditzy or zebra velvet dresses, long and lean, came in either sheath shapes or split at the front variations with ruffle-defined contours at the front. There were several tiered tulle and lace pieces as marvelous to contemplate as the famous cast-iron tower just down the road. Short jackets hemmed with ruffles were layered against miniskirts. A black cady gown was spread with a frothing neckline of white tulle; a white silk gown featured a cursive flick of also-white tulle from hem to hip.It’s been a while since I’d bumped into this designer—too rich for my blood, boom boom—and what has developed since her Hotel Crillon days three-ish years ago are the patterned velvets and the striking tailoring on double-revered satin-fronted checked jackets and topcoats. Rich has value as an assured designer of ultra-feminine, ultra-tasteful, yet ultra-sultry attire for women who understand their own currency yet refuse to be devalued. Worth investing in.
Luke Leitch
March 3, 2017
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
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552
Alessandra Rich
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
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2,017
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Alessandra Richlikes to tell a story alongside her clothes, and the tale she unfurled for spring today at the Hotel Montana was one that’ll likely sound pretty familiar. Her collection—dubbed “MISSTAKE”—played on the idea of happy accidents. Its heroine, the titular “Miss Take,” grabs anything she wants and throws caution to the wind—and style advice out the door. The press notes were a list of what Rich called "basically bad ideas" that Miss Take had deliberately disobeyed. Among them: “Dress for the beach and end up on a dance floor," and “Wear a vinyl coat on a hot day because it’s cool.” Another read "Flash the label," and to that end skirts had thick, sporty elastic printed with her name, in riffs on the Calvin Klein staple (a trend that also popped up today at both Alexandre Vauthier and Christian Dior). The models wore oversize costume jewelry and turbans, or track suits that were cropped and ruched on top, to bare the majority of their midriffs. Gowns were either the brand's typical frenzied, feminine ruffled lace or a new (to her) minimalist silhouette rendered in neutral tones of jersey, because, Rich said, those tracksuits had gotten her in a ’90s mood.More important, among all of her fun and folly—and Rich’s clothes mostly work purely because they are such exquisitely frothy fun—the designer had stumbled upon the very real heart of what’s going on in fashion today: There are no rules. The Vetements effect is real, and its influence—unlikely florals, unwieldy fabrics, strange silhouettes—across all aspects of the industry has been staggering. These days, a head-to-toe designer look tends to come across as somewhat stodgy on the street: It’s too polished, too perfect, too lacking in real personality. It wasn’t all hits, but what Rich is attempting to do is create the random discord of a real wardrobe within her own collection, making her label a one-stop-shop for an outfit with character. Or as she put it in her notes, “In beauty there should be something wrong. Nothing fake, nothing false. Like a diamond in a sea of glass.” That’s called style.
Alessandra Codinha
September 30, 2016
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
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553
Alessandra Rich
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
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2,018
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Alessandra Rich held her show today in a lush, only-in-Paris apartment whose beauty more than compensated for its fifth-floor elevation. You could easily imagine this season’s ’80s-flavored crepuscular customer heading out into the night from this address.Sometimes more than a mite Saint Laurent or Chanel in its inspiration—and in the case of a riotously sequined black ruffled bodysuit, un peuI, Tonya—this collection meandered high and low. A series of bouclé bombers and jacket dresses, sometimes studded in rhinestone, came interspersed with micro-leopard-print loose three-pleat pants, while track jackets and track pants teamed with mohair knits in micro-leopard. There was a very fine full-sleeved blouse in irregular horizontal lines strafed with horizontal gold lines over more mini-animalia pants (a fabric later returned to in a dress). A monochrome wrap dress in velvet—très bon—came in the pattern, too. At first, it roared, but after all these repetitions, it began to bore.Rich switched tracks—a bit—presenting a button-at-the-back bouclé minidress and several slit-and-ruffle gowns decorated with arcs of crystal in green, then cream, then fuchsia. A bold-shouldered red dress returned to tooth and claw. A long section of black eveningwear featured a deep-V tulip-skirted minidress, a strong one-shoulder ruffle-hung black sheath dress, and a cool lace-front tailored jumpsuit. This was pretty Rich.
Luke Leitch
March 3, 2018
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
554
Alessandra Rich
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…ring%20-2018.jpg
2,018
ready-to-wear
spring
Last season, this appointment was one-on-one with the designer and a few models in a lovely private apartment. This season, it was a salon show in the same lovely apartment. We sat and watched as Alessandra Rich’s angular, feminine ’40s curlicues emerged to circle the sofas and pass the poufs, mostly serenely.It was very satisfying to wonder—and later have confirmed—whether the early nurse dresses followed by shawl collar, crystal-buttoned blazers with military caps were a reference to Alfred Eisenstaedt’s wonderful 1945 image of a sailor smooching a stranger in Times Square. Rich presented a series of lace-collared printed dresses with buttoned fastenings and soft pleated skirts that were totally on target for the demure-versus-devastating dialectic. Less effective for their obviousness were the well-made but oh-so-flimsy floor-length crystal-lined dresses. With one turn at a sofa, the pavé crystal earring on a model’s left earlobe flew off, just as her right breast popped out—she walked on serenely, a pro, but still. Bouclé blazers and hot pants, more military blazers and greatcoats, and then a joyful embrace in more paillette-studded pieces ended this assignation. Rich is worth attention.
Luke Leitch
October 2, 2017
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
555
Alessandra Rich
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…eady-to-wear.jpg
2,019
ready-to-wear
fall
“Oh myGoddd. . . so cool . . . so extra . . . so fresh . . . so fashion!”That assessment of this Alessandra Rich show echoed up the red-carpeted stairwell as the hairspray-suffused, client-heavy audience poured forth down from the marble-walled private apartment that was again her venue and into the clot of Mercedes that waited on Avenue President Wilson below. The vibe in the room was certainly pumped as Rich’s crew considered a collection that contrasted the apparently prim with the purportedly provocative. These ingredients were presented at an approximately 1:3 ratio of Julia Roberts inPretty Womanbefore she goes shopping on Rodeo Drive, against after.The prim spanned ’40s-cut sweetheart dresses, mid-length, in feather print and polka dot, to tightly fitted but immaculately cut jersey jackets and skirts with ornate buttons and multiple pockets. These came accessorized with sparkling drop earrings, necklaces, and headbands of white marabou. The worm began its turn via four-button bouclé blazer miniskirts cut so high the runway photos will look borderline downskirt. There was a hot-strumpet bridal look halfway through. Swarovski body stockings were paired with French maid shirting and G-strings. Bettie Page–inspired body chains, lace slips, chokers, and cuffs completed the equation as the audience whooped and bench-danced to Cardi B’s “I Like It.”Afterward, Rich said: “I need to sit down; it’s too hot.” These clients, she added: “always like to have everything in our wardrobe: so something that is very ladylike. But when you put the choker on, you send that sort of message which is that, for you, you want.”But isn’t there an implication of submissiveness in the chokers and the body chains?“No! It’s very much about control. My women are always in control. They are dressing for themselves, absolutely. They like being able to wear something very proper but also being able to wear something like one of my body chains underneath. I don’t know if you have seen my body chains?” Alessandra, they were impossible to miss: extra.
Luke Leitch
March 1, 2019
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
556
Alessandra Rich
spring-2019-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
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2,019
ready-to-wear
spring
“It’s boring,” said Alessandra Rich of her staid cashmere cable-knit skirts, pants, sweaters, and pearl-buttoned cardigans in this strategically demure, very deshabille collection. That knitwear—sported by Rich herself—may indeed have veered to the quiet side, but there was plenty of noise in the marble and mirror-walled apartment the designer secured for this show. At least half the audience were clients, and they seemed to embrace the experience wholeheartedly. They whooped when Caro Daur came out in the prim polka-dot opener; there was a “You go, girl!” when Mary Charteris pounded the marble in a wide-pleated split skirt, bustier, and foulard-print shirt; and the whoops returned as Caroline Vreeland closed proceedings in a black cashmere body whose neckline’s perilous integrity was maintained by four taut Swarovski-set chains. There were seahorse earrings, a nautical-stripe body, a sea-scene jacket, and stud-epaulet blazers to reflect Rich’s vague yacht club theme. She said the pretty, mumsy yellow floral on a ruffle-edged pale blue wrap dress was adapted from something she saw a picture of Princess Margaret wearing.That prim “boring” girl in pearls was countered by the ruffled Chantilly sheaths, saucy bouclé minis, and some finely cut backless silk gowns in which more chains contributed sterling support work. “Boob overboard!” as one wag offered. Rich’s back-and-forth is knowingly kitsch and Rich’s (rich) clients adore her for it.
Luke Leitch
September 29, 2018
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
557
Alessandra Rich
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
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2,020
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fall
“She is a woman of the night and ready to have fun…she’s a little bit, how would I say, mysterious, and, um….” This was alooong“um”: What was Alessandra Rich working up to? “She’s ready to party, that’s for sure.” Rich says in her clothes what she cannot quite bring herself to say in person. Her women are lionesses dressed as lambs. They look demure and think impure.Shot for this look book in a fabulous empty villa outside Milan—“a house that looks like a nightclub and a great wild garden”—the collection was shown, as usual, in a swanky apartment opposite the Palais de Tokyo that was packed with rich Rich clients and influencer pals who relish her aptitude for upping their upholstery. Perfumed swaths of iPhones panned as each look passed. These ranged from siren-ish naive-floral fil coupe floor-lengthers with chain details at the belt to Chantilly lace boudoir eveningwear. There were some effective blouse-shirted soft tailoring outfits, mostly black and some in leather, which along with the bouclé daywear acted as a businesslike feint before the suspenders-hung bouclé short suits; sequined underwear; oligarch-bankrupting, high-slit long dresses; and explosive tulle frocks filled the highly receptive room. Rich is a rarity in that she is a woman designing womenswear that is, without doubt, built to entrance the dumbly primitive straight male eye, but which also provides an ironic high-frequency top note audible only to its wearer and her fellows.
Luke Leitch
February 29, 2020
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
558
Alessandra Rich
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
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2,020
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spring
It would be so easy for Alessandra Rich to make catty little dresses that sell like hotcakes and think nothing of their intention or place in society. But Rich knows good and well the meaning of her ’80s-inflected frocks. Their Reagan-era fabulousness stripped of some sinister implications, cultish It pieces that want to remember only the punchy drama ofDynastywithout any of the pushing, shoving, or wine sloshing. With a tongue-in-cheek wink, she provided a women’s interest mag–style quiz on the seat of every guest at her Spring 2020 show today that led attendees to determine which kind of lady they are. If you answered that your first thought in the morning was finding your marabou slippers, you were “Totally Ladylike.” Scrolling through your phone got an answer of “New Ladylike,” and buy some snake earrings resulted in “Rebel Ladylike.” Provided with pencils, guests clad in head-to-toe Rich went wild for the quiz.The women who gussied up in Rich’s subversively prim frocks for the show will also go wild for her Spring 2020 collection. It was, without fail, her sexiest yet, riffing on transparency, crystal trim, and swimwear—a complete pivot from the navy polka-dot frock Kate Middleton once wore into seductive, sultry territory. The silhouette was still entirely ’80s, but Rich expanded her repertoire into Laura Ashley pouf sleeves and bow trims, Emanuel Ungaro prints and minis, and an Oscar de la Renta–esque black velvet dress with a tulle skirt hemmed in thick ribbon bands. In some ways, this was a rehashing of vintage garments for women who would never enter a vintage store or trawl the corners of Etsy—if they did, they could find similarly retro OTT ensembles for a fraction of the cost. But Rich knows how to create an aura around her pieces. With rhinestone-strewn hairnets, sky-high stilettos, and pouty glares, her runway models are reflections of the women that buy her clothes: Savvy, strong, and totally Rich.
Steff Yotka
September 28, 2019
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
559
Alessandra Rich
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…sandro-Oliva.jpg
2,021
ready-to-wear
fall
Alessandra Rich’s girls seem to have spent their quarantines in flirtatious mode—at least this was what the fall collection’s video suggested. A blonde bombshell sashayed in a classy hotel’s marbled lobby wearing a tight-fitted midi pencil skirt, sheer black stockings, and studded stilettos; she stretched languidly on a four-poster bed in a black lace see-through number; and she talked on the phone clothed (so to speak) in a black jumper with an embroidered feline at the front. As per the press notes, “She moves in the house like a jungle cat, searching for her pleasure spot.” The collection was titled Lust Days.Zooming from her studio in Milan, where she has spent an unglamorous lockdown like the rest of us, Rich said that what inspired her was the craving for freedom, travel, and a life unencumbered by the limitations of our present circumstances: “I haven’t been able to go back to my home in London for six months,” she said. No wonder the feeling of breaking free was on her mind. She said the song she listened most to while designing the collection was “Stairway to Heaven.”Rich indulged in seductive prettiness here. Her models looked sweet in midi floral dresses with jeweled buttons and boxy tartan jackets over sassy minidresses. Argyle cardigans were given a shot of shine with hot fixes of diamond-patterned glitter and worn cheekily with high-waisted culottes or tweedy pencil skirts. “I loosely based the collection on a ’70s vibe because it was a time of such creativity and freedom,” she said. Lusting over freedom is surely an universal activity these days.
Tiziana Cardini
March 2, 2021
Alessandra Rich
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The pandemic forced Alessandra Rich to spend four months in London during the lockdown. Luckily, she was able to show her spring collection in her own showroom in Milan, though, it's still a far cry from the luxe of the Parisian flat and the decadence of Lapérouse, where she has received her clients in recent fashion weeks. But being a resourceful Italian, she took it in her stride. She delivered the collection on time, and it was as meticulously crafted and glamorous as ever.As a testament to her optimism, she titled the collection Euphoria. In these circumstances, it’s obviously more wishful thinking than the actual reality of what we’re going through. “I know, I know,” she conceded. “But while I was designing the collection during the confinement, I was thinking about joy, about the joy of dressing up again, the desire to go out feeling beautiful in a beautiful dress.”There were plenty of seductive numbers to spark joy in the women who like her style, women she describes as having an intense social life. “They party; they have to attend weddings and dinners and receptions,” she said. Yes—but when? Social calendars aren’t exactly crowded with obligations these days. When life resumes, Rich’s clients will be dressed to the nines, ready at the starting blocks.Even without a long list of parties to attend, it’s difficult not to be seduced by Rich’s exquisite vintage-y floral dresses and the candy-hued, glitzy pantsuits with matching brassieres she concocted with such unabashed conviction. To add the final touch to her seductive arsenal, she launched a new line of languid lingerie—floral negligees, sweet little bikinis, and see-through cover-ups that can double as beachwear. They looked euphoria-inducing enough.
Tiziana Cardini
September 29, 2020
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich’s fall collection was full of seductive evening pieces which she designed months ago, when the desire for getting out and having fun after two years of restrictions seemed to finally become a reality. But the dramatic events unfolding in Ukraine drastically shifted the perspective. A full-on party time must once again be put on hold.Rich was planning to shoot the look book in a plush location, but the circumstances made her change her mind in favor of a disused factory, a space bare and industrial that “felt more appropriate to my feelings,” she said. It made for a stark contrast with the provocative vibe of the collection, where Rich riffed on her repertoire of luscious Lolita-esque styles.Although the vibe was unmistakably sexy, an element of fun mitigated the drama factor, as if a little girl was playing dress up in her mother’s closet. “I give my women toys to play with,” the designer said, referring to a strawberry-print minidress with puff sleeves, or a midriff-baring cropped jumper embroidered with huge cherries at the front. Gingham, lace, built-in corsets, and faux fur were also part of the game, as well as heart-shaped details on polka-dot printed midi pleated dresses, which the designer described as “more conservative.”The same couldn’t be said of an hourglass-shaped, corseted longuette Prince of Wales dress with a prim white collar, a once demure creature which was given the risqué treatment with cut-outs revealing the hips and high slits on the sides liberating the legs. It won’t please the Duchess of Cambridge, who’s a faithful client, unless she decides to subvert the monarchy wearing it at some royal event.Without going to such extremes, the Duchess could choose from a series of slightly more appropriate long evening numbers in black velvet, with plunging heart-shaped décolleté, draped sleeves, and revealing side slits. Perhaps the monarchy wouldn’t be so impacted by a dash of mood-lifting, attractive, sexy glam.
Tiziana Cardini
March 11, 2022
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
562
Alessandra Rich
pre-fall-2022
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2022/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…credit-brand.jpg
2,022
pre-fall
At a pre-fall appointment, Alessandra Rich was neatly put-together in a relaxed sweatshirt emblazoned with a glitteryRichlogo and track pants of the skintight variety. Looking at her, one expected to see a collection of her young-upper-crust clothes: long pleated dresses in micro-florals and white pussy-bowed collarettes with occasional plunging necklines. But no. Or at least not only, as there’s apparently another side of posh that Rich is suggesting her high-heeled (and well-heeled) clientele should explore—sultrier, darker, with plenty of black latex, see-through nets, and crystal-studded corsets. Oh la la.In the look book, images of a blonde ingenue clad in what looks like a chic version of fetish gear emerge from a deep red velvety background. Who’s the role model? Is it Séverine, the double-life character played by Catherine Deneuve in Buñuel’sBelle de Jour,perhaps? Rich was mum on the subject, leaving it open to interpretation. When pressed on the about-face from bon ton madame to erotic diva, she said it was due to a desire for sensuality and passion that the (apparently never-ending) pandemic has unleashed. Cheekily, she called the collection Room 2022: “I know, it’s a hotel room I was thinking about,” she joked. “The number 2022 is actually wishful thinking; it’s the year in which I’m hoping that passion for life can be lived fully and freely again.”To that end, Rich is giving plenty of tools to her bourgeois clients, eager to play a sassier, provocative role. Pre-fall was a rather sexy affair, abundant in skintight midi pencil skirts in glossy black vinyl or transparent stretchy net; crystal-studded mohair sweaters soft as a kitten but cropped to generously expose the midriff; and corseted bustiers in pink camouflage or black leather. Barely there velvet hot pants, slinky draped minidresses printed with miniature florals, and bouclé-Lurex tweed suits with skirts as short as belts emphasized the tongue-in-cheek message of fetish-chic seduction Rich wanted to convey. “The woman I was thinking about is still the same,” she said. “It’s just that she doesn’t want to look too perfect; she’s less in control. She’s giving herself permission to be more erotic and instinctive. She wants to let her hair down.”
Tiziana Cardini
December 14, 2021
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
563
Alessandra Rich
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
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2,022
ready-to-wear
spring
“Take me out, it’s sunny outside,” said an upbeat Alessandra Rich when asked to summarize her collection’s mood. Eager like the rest of us to leave behind the doom and gloom of the past two years and “feel the heat of the sun on the skin,” she tuned in to the current obsession for the sexy, skimpy, body-con look that emerged as a sort of analog antidote to the frigid digital lexicon embraced during lockdowns.The über-seductive numbers she’s offering for summer are skin baring and revealing, with accents on irony and irreverence. Rich thinks that fashion rules shouldn’t be taken too seriously and that women ought to enjoy their body and flaunt it with confidence. “A woman must above all please herself,” she said.There’s plenty to flaunt in the collection, which nods to a younger audience with a penchant for Y2K nostalgia. In the mix are shimmery laminated Lycra leggings in citrus tones worn with matching long-sleeve, midriff-baring tops; microminiskirts, hot pants, or culottes peeking out from strong-shouldered tailored blazers in bouclé tweed the color of lollipops; and skimpy bikinis and bralettes barely concealed under fitted, abundantly bejeweled pinstripe jackets. Knitwear got the sexy treatment too, offered in unlined openwork versions to amp up the see-through factor, as in a body-skimming off-white midiskirt or a pair of bell-bottom black leggings paired with a crisscross bikini top for a slight bondage-y effect. “It’s bourgeois bondage, though,” specified Rich, emphasizing the conservative underpinnings of her style.It’s no secret that Kate Middleton, the always meticulously put together Duchess of Cambridge, is one of her most faithful clients. Her favorite Madame dresses are proposed in new summery iterations: midi length, neatly pleated, primly collared, pussybowed, and printed in small floral motifs or polka dots in feisty colors. “A woman can be many women,” reflected Rich. “Delicate and feminine or audacious and bold.” Who knows if the duchess agrees.
Tiziana Cardini
October 11, 2021
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/alessandra-rich
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Alessandra Rich went sentimental for resort: Hearts and flowers bloom in abundance on the copious frills of the girly dresses she favors. The choice is suggestive of a hopeful mindset. Stuck in Milan since the beginning of the pandemic and a bit nostalgic of her London life, Rich is in restart mode, ready to resume the lively social life that she so misses. “It’d be great to have a good party on a terrace, wouldn’t it?” she asked. Indeed, it would.A rooftop terrace overlooking an industrial Milanese landscape actually materialized—not as the location for a fabulous party but as the set for the lookbook’s shoot. “I wanted something metropolitan,” said Rich. For once, nature wasn’t part of the picture. Rich likes it a bit sassy; theen plein airfeel of a field of poppies wouldn’t qualify as an appropriate frame for her racy, flirty numbers anyway. “Dress, think, and love” was the collection’s mantra.Rich has a broad celebrity following, spanning from K-pop group Blackpink to Beyoncé to the Duchess of Cambridge. You couldn’t think of more different women or more different styles. “I believe every one of them finds something that represents their personality,” Rich said. For resort she mixed casual and dressy. Sexy heart-printed minidresses sit alongside more demure options, as in midi pleated dresses with prim lace collarettes. Cropped tops in fluffy mohair contrasted with embroidered denim truck jackets.Rich manages to make even a plain, unassuming sweat look flattering and pretty; yet glam is her preferred language. A long, sinuous black velvet number with heart-shaped décolletage looked ready for the great reopening we’re all anticipating. “It’s a love letter for all the new, beautiful things the future will certainly bring us,” she said.
Tiziana Cardini
June 16, 2021
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
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Alessandra Rich showed her fall collection at the Paris Sotheby’s headquarters; the room where auctions usually take place was turned into a white-walled, minimalsalon de couture. After last season’s plush baroque setting and louche atmosphere at Maxim’s, she wanted the mood to be lighter and brighter.Rich likes women to be coquettish, seductive, and guilt-free naughty. The show was a parade of her favorite characters, shifting between bon ton dames playing ingenue, wearing pleated shirtdresses printed with tiny florals, and voluptuous vixens flaunting skimpy lingerie slips and frilly bralettes in see-through lace.Romantic bias-cut frocks with ruched collars alternated with tight-fitted corsets tied with velvet bows. Lacy stockings with garters and leotards in stretchy see-through lace leaving little to the imagination played against oversized, masculine greatcoats and shapely tweed suits. There seemed to be no middle ground between a well-mannered afternoon tea and the boudoir.“It’s about having fun and playing overtly with all the tropes of seductive femininity,” Rich said backstage. “Not taking yourself too seriously and being frivolous. A sense of humor can be very sexy.”
Tiziana Cardini
March 3, 2023
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
566
Alessandra Rich
pre-fall-2023
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…credit-brand.jpg
2,023
pre-fall
“Who AR you?” asked Alessandra Rich at a pre-fall appointment. The puzzling question wasn’t intended as a Hamlet-like existential conundrum, rather “which Alessandra Rich woman are you?” To cover the apparently moody, capricious nature of the AR creature, the collection offered a sort of à la carte menu of contrasting options.“She has a teddy bear on her pillow and a baseball bat under her bed, she’s messy and prim at the same time,” summarized Rich. This season, the AR girl can be punkish in pleated-tartan ultra-miniskirts, or languid in mermaid-like ‘40s satin dresses; she’s all business in tailored pinstriped suits with puffy sleeves, or she indulges her provocative side in tough, black studded-leather greatcoats thrown over figure-hugging slipdresses in floral patchworks trimmed with lace. For her, Alice-in-Wonderland collarettes on midi pleated polka dot dresses and flirty bows on silky velvet bustiers have the same appeal as destroyed lacquered leather bombers pierced by spikes—which looked apropos in the gritty Milanese neighborhood where the lookbook was shot. Alessandra Rich has been living in London for years, and this collection was infused with a delicate nostalgia for the sexy, romantic, subversive atmosphere of the clubs of Camden, where British punk was born.
Tiziana Cardini
December 12, 2022
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
567
Alessandra Rich
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…dit-gorunway.jpg
2,023
ready-to-wear
spring
For her return to the catwalk, Alessandra Rich went for the quintessential Paris restaurant Maxim’s, whose Belle Epoque, dark red interior (carpeted, plush, dimly lit with Art Nouveau original chandeliers) still has a flavor of chic decadence. “I thought it was the perfect frame for my collection, as this is a place where people come to enjoy life, to have fun, and to play the seduction game,” said Rich in what was definitely the most voluptuous backstage of the season.The collection was called Let’s Kiss, and to bring home the point, flame red lipsticks in small red boxes were placed on each seat. Then the stage was left to an undulating flow of skimpy, sassy numbers, impossibly short and tight, followed by a parade of midriff-baring crop tops variously paired with the lowest-rise flares in the business (Rich rather appropriately called them “naughty”) or with sexy high-waist bikini briefs or miniskirts as indiscernible as a microchip.A slightly more demure proposition was a series of floaty, sinuous slip dresses in floral chiffon that looked deceitfully romantic, as their sheerness didn’t leave much to the imagination. “It’s all about false innocence; she just pretends to be an ingenue,” said Rich of her inveterate seductress. “But she’s all about having fun being an actual provocateur.”
Tiziana Cardini
September 30, 2022
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
568
Alessandra Rich
resort-2023
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/alessandra-rich
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2,023
resort
A sense of adventure isn’t exactly what comes to mind when thinking of Alessandra Rich’s style. You don’t picture fearless explorations of faraway outdoors, or attending events like Coachella, wearing one of her high-style red carpet numbers or one of her prim, pussy-bowed shirt dresses that Kate Middleton favors. But life can be unpredictable, and for resort Rich took an unexpected turn towards the wild side.“I wanted something more free, stronger, with a warmer feel,” she explained. In Rich’s lexicon, “warm” is obviously an understatement: “hot” would be a more appropriate way of describing her take on resort. Shot in an exotic-looking location of red earth dunes and sparse vegetation, the collection exuded abundant sensuality and a let your hair down vibe which wasn’t exactly Duchess-of-Cambridge-demure. What Rich offered instead were plenty of sexy, racy party options that would look appropriate at Glastonbury, but certainly wouldn’t be suitable for any of the recent royal extravaganzas celebrating the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee in London.Low-waisted ultra-mini miniskirts, saucy hot pants studded with hot fixes, frilly cropped tops and bralettes baring the midriff were on the menu, together with flowy, ruffled dresses as sheer as a morning haze at Burning Man, cut asymmetrical and trimmed with fluffy plumage. Bikinis and cut-out bodysuits sparkling with sequins, leggings/soft corset combos knitted with psychedelic swirls of butterflies, and motifs of flames intarsia-ed on roomy, cool leather cargos would also fit nicely into the suitcases of Rich’s posse of party animals. “My girls like a good time,” she purred.More glamorous, dramatic red carpet options were not forgotten. A long, sleek black velvet gown with a vertiginous plunging neckline exuded a mermaid-like allure, while a tailored tuxedo worn with low-rise bellbottoms in see-through black lace looked sassy and rather cool. That post-pandemic party mood is back in force; from the mud of Glastonbury and outdoor raves to the opulent gilded salons of British castles, Alessandra Rich will have every party option covered.
Tiziana Cardini
June 13, 2022
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
569
Alessandra Rich
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…credit-brand.jpg
2,024
ready-to-wear
fall
Alessandra Rich riffed on the naughty ingénue repertoire she favors for her fall presentation; to make the message coming across, the label’s Art Deco showroom was set up as a boudoir. In one of the rooms of the sprawling marble-lined space, a decadent four-poster bed was bedecked with white lace curtains and a red velvet bedspread. Models took turns languidly lying down: With the presentation coming at the end of a long day after weeks of non-stop fashion shows, this reviewer couldn’t help but feel jealous.The lineup featured short coquettish confections in virginal (so to speak) white lace, counterpointed by vamp-ish slinky numbers in dramatic black velvet. Plunging necklines, frills and ruches abounded, as did marabou trimmings, short hemlines, see-through chiffon and bows galore—the entire arsenal of girly seduction was on call. It’d look a bit obvious if it weren’t for Rich not taking herself too seriously; there’s always a humorous undertone in the way she looks at stereotypical femininity. She’s also wise enough to give her customers (whose daughters also come to her for fun, sexy party dresses) a wider offer—interspersed between bows, frills and frivolous frocks there were tailored daywear suits in tartan wool, separates in soft mohair with jewel buttons, flattering tweed dresses, blousons and trench coats in black or caramel leather. Said Rich: “Women have so many different sides to them, they just have to give themselves permission to have fun exploring them all.”
Tiziana Cardini
March 1, 2024
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
570
Alessandra Rich
pre-fall-2024
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/alessandra-rich
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2,024
pre-fall
Alfred Hitchcock once called Grace Kelly “a snow-covered volcano.” The blonde actress-turned-princess famously embodied the hot Ice Queen cliché, classy on the outside, lustful on the inside—a duality that some consider erotic. Alessandra Rich finds it “an attractive paradox,” and for pre-fall she flirted with the duplicity between proper and naughty, a recurring theme in her work.Like a Lolita raiding her glamorous mother’s closet, the collection had the feel of playing at being grown-up. Evening frocks in pitch-black or red velvet looked swanky at the front, while revealing a deep-plunging, voluptuous backless rear view; frilly lace bustiers peeked under striped cardis paired with matching barely-there miniskirts; masculine tailored blazers in lamé tweed were thrown over ’80s draped short dresses in turquoise satin, fit for the dance floor. As if covered in stardust, XL sporty denim blousons sparkled with nighttime pizzazz.Rich believes that her duty as a designer is to help women unleash their inner seductresses, hidden under layers of bourgeois restraint. Fashion is a tool for liberation, and to give latitude to oneself’s multiple facets. Girls behaving like wordly dames, mature women acting like wild teenagers—according to Rich, when it comes to freedom of expression, there’s no stigma attached.
Tiziana Cardini
December 20, 2023
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
571
Alessandra Rich
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…dit-gorunway.jpg
2,024
ready-to-wear
spring
Alessandra Rich held her spring show at the Reformed Church of the Holy Spirit in Paris. The light coming through Its impressive elliptical glass ceiling seemed so otherworldly, she imagined a space shuttle landing after a voyage, carrying a flotilla of Rich-clad aliens. She called the collection From Venus With Love.Metallic silver threads on tweed textures, transparent organza with a silvery shine, and various ethereal fabrics referenced the space theme; they were offset by a tougher, sexier undercurrent of black leather, bondage high-heeled boots, and wristband chains attached to punkish, metal-studded little bags.As always with Rich, the ladylike clashed with the naughty, the bon-ton was pitted against “the wild side”—tailored blazers were worn over nude chiffon numbers, tight pencil skirts were paired with barely-there, sexy knitted tops, short-shorts in black sequins contrasted with prim-looking blouses of the sheer variety.“You can be girly or womanly,” said Rich at a preview. “Delicate or aggressive; it’s your choice.” Her Venusian aliens certainly knew how to pick sides.
Tiziana Cardini
September 30, 2023
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
572
Alessandra Rich
resort-2024
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…credit-brand.jpg
2,024
resort
Alessandra Rich is an elegant woman, always dressed in the prim frocks she designs for her eponymous label, which counts the Princess of Wales among its fans.Despite that well-mannered association, Rich stages fantasies of a rather different kind in her collections. Her stiletto-heeled creatures teeter between femme fatale and naughty ingénue, shuttling from lady of the manor duties by day to officiating rituals à laEyes Wide Shutby night. “Yes, there’s a noir vibe in my representation of women,” she conceded. “Fantasizing about a secret double-life is perhaps a way of rebelling against the taboos we as women have been forced to internalize.”This season, Rich let her hair down, playing the conservative versus the risqué without much restraint. Bias-cut satin numbers fit for a 1930s star coexisted with nude lurex bras and micro panties from the lingerie line she’s about to launch. Elsewhere, underpinnings were barely concealed under a clear-latex microskirt pierced by metal studs, or worn unflinchingly on bare skin with low-slung black leather pants and a pair of long black patent leather gloves. “She’s never uncomfortable being undressed,” said Rich.The message was in the mix: Proper pleated-skirt floral print midi dresses with broderie anglaise collarettes would pass muster at a formal garden reception, while the see-through impact of a black stretch-lace catsuit studded was just slightly mitigated by a zippered leather miniskirt not much wider than a belt.Rich is curious about “secrets women hide in their minds,” she said. What she wants to offer them are tools to play the self-representation game as they please, without taking themselves too seriously. She called the collection “Please, disturb.”
Tiziana Cardini
June 15, 2023
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
573
Alessandra Rich
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/alessandra-rich
https://assets.vogue.com…credit-brand.jpg
2,025
ready-to-wear
spring
Alessandra Rich’s presentation took place in her brand’s expansive Art Deco showroom, featuring black-and-white marble floors and opulent gilded finishes. The setting framed her elegant spring collection, designed for women with a packed social calendar filled with cocktails and soirées. Rich is known for weaving a naughty edge into her seemingly prim and proper dresses. “My collections are for women who are seriously sensual,” she remarked.The hallmark of Rich’s aesthetic lay in the tension between the bourgeois surface of her designs and the provocative spirit simmering beneath. Delicate white lace or piqué collarettes, dainty bows, and soft ruffles were deliberately juxtaposed with silhouettes with an ingenue twist. For daytime wear, Rich’s fluid silk crepe dresses, featuring pussy bows and pleated skirts, were subtly subverted by daring front slits, tempering their demure appeal with an edge of sensuality. A masculine pantsuit was introduced as a counterpoint to more dramatic evening pieces, overlaid with layers of black Chantilly lace that evoked a seductiveésprit lingerie.
Tiziana Cardini
September 29, 2024
Alessandra Rich
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0
Alessandra Rich
Alessandra Rich
0
574
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-1995-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1995-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…-1995-RTW-01.jpg
1,995
ready-to-wear
spring
Though avian prints appeared in this show—on the likes of VoguettePlum Sykesand the waist-training corsetiere Mr. Pearl—its title paid homage to Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 thriller about violent bird attacks. Throughout his careerAlexander McQueenwould be drawn, like a magnet, to the theme of destruction, present in this collection in the tire tread print, and, structurally in the tailored deconstruction that became his signature.
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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1
Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
575
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-1996-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1996-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…-1996-RTW-01.jpg
1,996
ready-to-wear
fall
Dante was shown in a candle-lit church in Spitalfields, London with a skeleton seated front row. Beauty and blasphemy were woven throughout this wide-ranging collection in whichAlexander McQueenexperimented with denim and Victoriana, tropes that he would return to again and again.
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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0
Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
576
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-1996-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1996-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…-1996-RTW-01.jpg
1,996
ready-to-wear
spring
Two seasons after showing hisBirds collection,Alexander McQueen’s models were flipping them to the audience at his Hunger show, which referenced the erotic vampire movie of the same name. The designer added bondage straps to some of the looks, and made liberal use of a blood red color. Among the more outre elements of the show were the models in casts, and the see-through, worm-filled bustier.
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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0
Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
577
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-1997-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1997-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…ELLA-TENNANT.jpg
1,997
ready-to-wear
fall
Models stormed the runway like feral beasts atAlexander McQueen’s Fall 1997 show, which referenced H.G. Wells’s novel,The Island of Dr. Moreau, about a vivisectionist who creates humanoids out of animals. Topolino turned hair into manes, and used makeup to give a glowering feline aspect to models dressed in leather, acid-washed denim, and animal skins.
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander McQueenput on a series of landmark shows in the late nineties, each one more extreme than the next. But for sheer provocation, nothing topped spring 1997’s La Poupée, or The Doll. Inspired by the artist Hans Bellmer, who fetishistically rearranged toy dolls, McQueen experimented with proportion and, more disturbingly, trussed the models in various metal restraints. His palKate Mosstook to the watery runway in a pair of his derriere-exposing bumster pants, the point of which, McQueen insisted, wasn’t to titillate. Rather, he said, “I wanted to elongate the body, not just show the bum. To me, that part of the body—not so much the buttocks, but the bottom of the spine—that’s the most erotic part of anyone’s body, man or woman.”
null
September 18, 1996
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
579
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-1998-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1998-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…-1998-RTW-01.jpg
1,998
ready-to-wear
fall
Havingexplored the element of water,Alexander McQueenmoved onto fire, closing his Fall ’98 show with a model trapped in a ring of flames. Dubbing the show Joan, in reference to the Catholic martyr, the designer made use of metal mesh; and he layered tragedy on top of tragedy, printing the portraits of the Romanov children on dresses and tops. Adding to the drama was the hair, or lack of it, and the red contact lenses. A hint of salvation was offered by Diana Ross, whose words “You’re gonna make it, you’re gonna make it,” were played at the fiery finale.
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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0
Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
580
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-1998-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1998-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…ERIN-OCONNOR.jpg
1,998
ready-to-wear
spring
While there was plenty of pain inAlexander McQueen’s work, there was usually pleasure, and often some poetry as well. Such was the case with spring 1998’s Golden Shower show, renamed Untitled when the sponsors balked at the lasciviousness of the former title. Models walked down a runway made of water-filled Lucite tanks wearing tight snakeskin dresses and tailored intarsia suits. They were dressed in all white for the finale and were treated to a shower that made their mascara run and their all-white clothes see-through.
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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0
Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
581
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-1999-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1999-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…ERIN-OCONNOR.jpg
1,999
ready-to-wear
spring
It wasn’t a fashion show. It was performance art. The models at__Alexander McQueen’__sSpring 1999 outing navigated two robotic contraptions in clothes that felt decidedly lighter and more sensual than his previous work, albeit every bit as fetishistic. Only whenShalom Harlowemerged in a strapless broderie anglaise dress cinched across the bust with a leather belt did the robots come to life. As she spun around on a circular platform, the robots, which were typically used to paint cars, sprayed her in a carefully choreographed dance. When it was over, Harlow practically stumbled into the audience. Potent stuff.
null
September 1, 1998
Alexander McQueen
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0
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
582
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-1999-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1999-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…ANKIE-RAYDER.jpg
1,999
ready-to-wear
fall
Despite the fact that it was inspired byThe Shining, The Overlook was one ofAlexander McQueen’s most poetic collections. Presented inside a Lucite box, that imitated a Victorian-themed snow globe, this wintry fantasy featured ice skaters, gorgeous chunky handknits, and warm shearlings in a birch forest. As always, there was virtuoso tailoring; this show also featured intricate patchworked pieces. A laser-cut silver metal skirt and a silver metal corset wowed with their craftsmanship.
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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0
Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
583
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2000-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2000-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…-2000-RTW-01.jpg
2,000
ready-to-wear
fall
Björk took a fancy to, and was photographed in, a dramatic, deconstructed acid-wash denim hoop dress from this collection. Named for Eshu, the Yoruba spirit, the show paired African influences (neck rings) with Victoriana (leg-of-mutton sleeves) to dramatic effect.
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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0
Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
584
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2000-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2000-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…-2000-RTW-01.jpg
2,000
ready-to-wear
spring
With cheeky insoucianceAlexander McQueendropped trou at the end of his Spring 2000 show to reveal his stars and stripes boxers. Eye was shown in New York, on a pier on the West side, and, once again, the models sloshed through water. They wore clothes that drew from active sportswear, bondage, and the Middle East;Gisele, for one, wore a tasseled and embroidered head covering with a metal-pailleted bodysuit. There was no ignoring the collection’s latent aggression when spikes rose through the water. Over those frightening points soared acrobats in burka-like shrouds, some striped red, others colored black, like good and bad angels.
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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0
Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
585
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2001-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2001-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…alin-persson.jpg
2,001
ready-to-wear
fall
Colorful lights, a merry-go-round, the sound of children? Alexander McQueen's mise-en-scène brought to mind family trips, fun and games, and maybe a couple of lighthearted mimes.But once the lights went down and the blaring soundtrack began, it became perfectly clear that there was nothing even remotely candy-coated about his lascivious carnival crashers. Cavorting and gyrating around poles, a posse of hard-as-nails girls took over the stage wearing shiny patent-leather jackets and jeans, scalloped coats and skirts, S&M overcoats, skintight leather pants and ornate military jackets that would've put Napoleon to shame. A nearly naked princess turned up in little more than a feathered headdress, a net gown and a few chains; her cohorts wore frayed sweaters with giant skulls and bones, and long suit jackets that became dresses as they wrapped around the body and then draped at the side.When the frantic pace finally slowed down, it was to reveal an eerie backdrop of gigantic stuffed animals, discarded dolls, puppets, balloons and ragged circus paraphernalia, out of which several macabre characters emerged, wearing massive ruffles, centuries-old suits and beat-up lace. The perfect accessory? One of McQueen's otherworldly creatures dragged around a golden skeleton with her foot.
null
February 20, 2001
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander McQueen's show was nothing short of monumental. The audience sat around a mirrored cube, which, when lit from inside, revealed itself to be a mental-hospital holding cell. Demented girls, wearing hospital headbands and everything from extraordinary mussel-shell skirts to impossibly chic pearl-colored cocktail dresses, slithered and strutted while uselessly attempting to fly over the cuckoo's nest.McQueen was at his very best: There were gothic, theatrical pieces, like a dress with a miniature castle and rat posing as a shoulder pad; a top made out of a jigsaw puzzle; and a huge feathered creation with stuffed eagles suspended over the model's head, poised to attack à la Hitchcock. But amidst all the insanity, there was a cornucopia of startlingly elegant—and wearable—pantsuits, flouncy party dresses, and even a spectator pump or two.How to top off such a climactic presentation? After everyone thought it was all over, another cube within the psychiatric ward-cum-runway opened up to reveal a portly nude woman, her face covered by a mask, breathing through a tube, surrounded by fluttering moths. It was a truly shocking and enthralling tableau: Francis Bacon via Leigh Bowery and Lucien Freud. In a word, sublime.
null
September 25, 2000
Alexander McQueen
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Casting away all but one of his usual theatrical props, Alexander McQueen proved to Paris that his design can stand on its own dramatically erotic strengths. Showing in the shadowy medieval vaulted hall of the Conciergerie, McQueen couldn’t resist a lone, macabre trick—a vista of a pack of caged wolves, and the opening image of a lone figure clad in a purple leather cape leading a pair of dogs (who looked more scared than scary). But that was just for old times’ sake. When his models stalked out in brown tweed, tailored to within an inch of their lives, and strapped into variations on brown leather braces, it was clear McQueen was concentrating on clothes and not theatrics.His vixenish women had tiny-waisted silhouettes done with amazing attention to cut and detail. Milkmaid necklines—far from innocent-were pushed up by leather bodices that curved down into the tightest pencil skirts, and finished off with thigh-high leather boots. McQueen moved from that Helmut Newton-esque fantasy to another—bad schoolgirls, who mixed lingerie and silver lamé ties and skirts in with their proper blazers and duffels. For a splendid finale, he brought out romantic flouncy skirts, an exaggerated puff sleeved black velvet coat and a skirt made of swags of jet beading. Best of all, he's softened his sometimes severe hand so that the idea of wearing these pieces seems not just possible, but quite appealing.A trim McQueen took his bow in a bespoke suit made by the Savile Row tailors, Huntsman. It seemed like a coming of age. “I wanted it to be romantic, beautiful,” he said. “Power to the women! I got fit for this and I worked hard for it.”
Sarah Mower
March 8, 2002
Alexander McQueen
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1
Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
588
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2002-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2002-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
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2,002
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spring
"The Dance of the Twisted Bull" was the title of Alexander McQueen's highly anticipated collection, his first since partnering with Gucci Group and deciding to show in Paris.McQueen pulled off a bravura, Latin-themed romp. One particularly theatrical dress came equipped withbanderillas—the long spears with which bullfighters pique bulls—that seemed to impale the wearer in order to support a long ruffled train in the back. Another, a severely deconstructed blood-red señorita dress, had part of a jacket attached at the waist, while a matador-inspired strapless gown featured a built-in sword. An assortment of polka-dotted frocks were layered over matching stockings, and cinched with corsetlike straps and holster-inspired tops.Alongside these dramatic statements came plenty of carefully tailored, eminently wearable clothes, deftly proving McQueen's ability to mix iconoclastic statements with commercially viable product. Razored jackets were softened via seashell-like pleated skirts with gently upturned fronts; flared-sleeve eyelet shirts, layered skirts, and embroidered white jeans all looked confident, as did the cut-out dresses and sharp-as-a-tack toreador suits.
null
October 5, 2001
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
589
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2003-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2003-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…adina-fohlin.jpg
2,003
ready-to-wear
fall
A glass wind-tunnel corridor bridging a snow-covered wasteland: that was the bleak techno-meets-nature setting for Alexander McQueen’s mind trip for fall. “I wanted it to be like a nomadic journey across the tundra,” he said. “A big, desolate space, so that nothing would distract from the work.”The clothes, sculpted into his signature nip-waisted, stiff A-line skirt silhouettes, exhibited all the intense craft and some of the shapes that he learned during his stint at Givenchy couture. It bumped his ready-to-wear up to a new level, and if the plot—which traveled through Eurasian ethnic into punk and on to motocross—wasn’t all that understandable, the decorative impact made up for it.Fantastic details were lavished on dramatic structured carapaces, embroidered, painted and mind-blowingly embellished to look like antique samurai armor, Russian lacquered dolls and tribal ceremonial dress. Somewhere along the line, the stiff pleated skirts segued into molded suits, done in jigsaws of two-tone checkerboard—the better to show off the designer’s devilishly accurate cutting skills.McQueen can’t resist some theatrics: he sent two models into the wind tunnel, one wearing a skintight leather suit harnessed to a billowing parachute, the other dragging a 20-foot kimono into the eye of the fake snowstorm. Still, the moments that made the audience catch its breath were those that betrayed McQueen’s softer, more romantic side. One was a jacket constructed of white tulle pom-poms that looked like a bubble of snowballs. The other was the prettiest dress in the show: pale gray chiffon cut in an empire shape, embroidered with sequins and worn by Natalia Vodianova with the brightest red ruched over-the-knee boots.
Sarah Mower
March 7, 2003
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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590
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2003-ready-to-wear
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Alexander McQueen, showman, bad boy, where are you now? After joining Gucci Group and losing 30 pounds, the designer has shed his famously macabre show tactics. The most shocking things about his summer presentation were its stripped-down, old-fashioned romance and solid commercial appeal.Against a giant screen projection of underwater scenes andBlair Witch–style haunted woods, McQueen unfolded a sartorial narrative that began with pirates and drowned maidens and ended in the rainforest. The odd journey took in brown leather corset vests and minis, worn with creamy chiffon ruffles, drapey knicker-length shorts, and Elizabethan doublets and ruffs. After a diversion into a largely redundant black sequence, McQueen burst out with prints and colors, and some major showstoppers in the form of floaty dresses in vibrant tie-dyes and jumpsuits in lime and electric blue. His crescendo was a rainbow-colored floor-sweeping gown with tulle ruffles and some spectacular boleros made of what looked like bird-of-paradise feathers.
Sarah Mower
October 4, 2002
Alexander McQueen
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0
Alex McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
591
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2004-ready-to-wear
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It's only understandable that if the man who's been at the eye of the whirlwind of negotiations about taking up the reins at Yves Saint Laurent might have been thrown into an emotional spin. As we now know, Alexander McQueen turned down the offer, saying that it was far more important for him to concentrate on his own label. But although his fundamental instincts may be sound, the pain, strain, and self-questioning of recent weeks showed in this collection.McQueen's intention, he said, was to strip away "all theatrics and focus purely on design." In one way, his declaration is right on: Fashion, hedged about with so much overcomplicated stuff, does feel in want of a good, rigorous cleansing. Perhaps that's why the show looked like a strange kind of rebirthing. His first model, in flesh-pale slippery jersey from top to toe, looked like an embryonic alien being, stepping with horrible vulnerability from a spacecraft onto a kind of landing pad. She led out a parade of similarly nude-colored outfits in tweed, double-faced cashmere, leather, jersey, and chiffon, in which McQueen seemed to be trying to summarize the essence of his design identity. He pared it down to some of his familiar shapes—jumpsuits, molded hourglass coats, nipped-waist suits—all shorn of the elaborate fabrics and embroideries of past seasons. The best of his coats was an ivory swing-skirted shearling, one of the most believably commercial items in the collection.Yet, throughout there was a sense that the audience was waiting for the moment when this sci-fi-accented show would take off in the usual, thrilling, turbo-charged McQueen manner. A couple of frosted Mongolian-lamb hooded jackets almost did it, but then the mood subsided again into evening, where the long jersey draped dresses looked as if they might have been designed in a mood when McQueen's mind really had been turned toward Saint Laurent.It was a pity—if only human—that the collection didn't quite live up to expectations at such a crucial time for McQueen. But then again, this is fashion. There's always next season.
Sarah Mower
March 4, 2004
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
592
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2004-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2004-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
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2,004
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It takes a showman like Alexander McQueen to get the lifeblood pumping back into fashion performance. His show—staged in the Salle Wagram, a nineteenth-century Parisian dance hall—was an exuberantly hilarious reenactment of Sydney Pollack’s Depression-era filmThey Shoot Horses, Don't They?Choreographed by Michael Clark over two weeks of intensive rehearsals in London, the narrative involved dancers, models, and audience in a visceral celebration of exquisitely glamorous clothes.In the opening scene, the girls entered—dancing for all they were worth on the arms of muscle-bound sailors and hunky hopefuls—dressed in fishtailed silver lamé, figure-hugging cha-cha dresses, and show-stopping gowns with spangled bodices and huge feathered skirts. Other competitors whirled on wearing pink corseted tulle tutus over gray ballet sweats; mint satin tap-suits; or a slinky confection of gray checkerboard chiffon. A Billie Holiday look-alike, dramatically vamping in pink charmeuse and ostrich, vied for attention as flashy bodysuited showgirls were energetically twirled aloft by their partners.McQueen’s signatures—elaborately pieced tailoring (now beautifully softened with delicate inserts of lingerie) and body-hugging denims spliced onto nude tulle—also did star turns. The pace picked up even further in the elimination race, in which morphed-together fluorescent chiffons and sports pieces ran hell-for-leather (on impossibly high heels) in a hotly contested dash around the room.There was even an opening for daywear. Blue-collar marathon survivors staggered out wearing plaid shirts, coats, and skirts made from quilts and recycled patchworks of shirting material, all crafted to the McQueen sex-bomb template. The show reached its climax as a lone exhausted dancer in a silver sequined gown mock-expired center stage. As she was carried off by the designer and his choreographer, thunderous applause rocked the hall.
Sarah Mower
October 9, 2003
Alexander McQueen
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0
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
593
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2005-ready-to-wear
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Tippi Hedren and Marilyn Monroe. Biker molls and sweater girls. You got it: Alexander McQueen went to the sixties, all the way, for fall. With its filched movie and rock 'n' roll themes, the collection read as a knowing vehicle, a McQueen director's cut. Glacially restrained tailoring, early rocker chic, the classic Hollywood ball gown moment: He had 'em all. Plus great hair, great music, and a roar of old-school glamour.But there's no such thing as a McQueen routine without a sinister psychological subtext or two. Was there a hint in the invitation—a pastiche of the film poster forVertigo, superimposed with the title of another Hitchcock movie,The Man Who Knew Too Much? What McQueen knows shows aplenty. His combined knowledge of Savile Row tailoring and Parisian couture means he can scissor an impeccably narrow gray tweed coat or a nipped-waist pencil skirtsuit, and put sizzle into period sobriety. The same goes for his showstopper Charles James-meets-Marilyn evening gowns, with their strapless sculpted fishtails and "Happy birthday, Mr. President" spangles.But there's an underlying strain in all this knowingness, too. At a time when fashion demands commercial reality, theatrics alone can't carry a show. McQueen, perhaps with a weary sense of show 'em what they want, also put out a lot (Navajo blankets, tasseled suede circaThe Misfits), which turned parts of the presentation into a merchandise run-through of dubious taste. A cynical trotting out of an overextended theme isn't what the fashion world expects of Alexander McQueen. We know; he knows: He's bigger than that. So was that why, to the sounds of Elvis echoing through the hall, he left the building without comment?
Sarah Mower
March 3, 2005
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
594
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2005-menswear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2005-menswear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…limit/00010m.jpg
2,005
menswear
fall
According to the program notes, Alexander McQueen's fall collection was inspired by the very different gangs featured in two French films from the nineties: the disenfranchised suburban Parisians of 1995'sLa Haine,and the sixteenth-century Catholic thugs of 1993'sLa Reine Margot.If what actually appeared on the catwalk had only the slenderest connection to either of these stated influences, there were certainly plenty of other gang references to be going on with. The first outfit—a hooded gray leather jacket and baggy gray pants—looked like Crips couture. A hooded leather coat with a pattern like an exploded soccer ball was a reminder of the tribalism of Europe's soccer terraces. An ensemble of black leather jacket and pants tucked into high boots suggested a modern-day droog. And the crown of silver thorns that topped a silver leather suit invoked the original gang leader Himself.The mix of butch and femme was classic McQueen: picture a densely sequined hoodie, or a delicate beaded black tulle T-shirt under a pair of dungarees, or a white leather trench topping a toile de Jouy top. A more straightforward proposition was the frock coat, which he has made his own. It appeared in teal wool, silver satin, and burgundy velvet, all with matching pants. But it's scarcely straightforwardness we expect—or want—from one of this designer's shows. The head of the last model out was wrapped like that of a medieval knight, in a cobweb of black beading. Only McQueen can leave an audience with such an image.
Tim Blanks
January 18, 2005
Alexander McQueen
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0
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
595
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2005-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2005-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…ly-donaldson.jpg
2,005
ready-to-wear
spring
“It was a lot of McQueen, all in one big collection.” Thus spake the designer after a performance that came across as a positioning statement—in more ways than one. The presentation summed up all his experience in sharp tailoring, spectacular romantic dresses, couture richness, and downright showmanship. And, with every look laid out on a giant chessboard, it couldn’t help but suggest a metaphor for the workings of the fashion industry.The chess device allowed McQueen to redo all his greatest moments, but in a prettier, lighter, more accessible way. He used the 1975 filmPicnic at Hanging Rockto work a girlish Edwardian theme, starting with tiny sailor jackets, school blazers, ticking-striped shirts, and gray knee-length shorts, then adding lovely white lace blouses and dresses. From there, it was onto the eighteenth century, in the form of precious flower-embroidered jackets over candy-striped puffball skirts, and dreamy floral chiffon dresses floating from Empire bodices.By the time the 36 models had taken up their positions, reminders of all McQueen’s past signatures and silhouettes were in place: the Savile Row-sharp tail coats; richly embroidered Japanese kimonos; streamlined sci-fi bodysuits; rigid molded corsets; and stiff, flounced godet skirts. En masse, it was very impressive. And even if this comprehensive résumé didn’t move his game along, most of the ideas had benefited from the designer’s revisions. They looked even better second time around: more feminine, less aggressive, and much more desirable. Checkmate!
Sarah Mower
October 7, 2004
Alexander McQueen
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1
Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
596
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2005-menswear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2005-menswear/alexander-mcqueen
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2,005
menswear
spring
In the current climate, pairing "desert" and "army" would seemingly lead to one inescapable conclusion. But the crop-haired soldiers Alexander McQueen sent down his spring runway were more World War II desert fox than twenty-first-century jarhead. Maybe that's not so unexpected—there's always more romance in the past, and McQueen is one of fashion's most romantic designers. So his patchwork camouflage shorts appeared over a henna-tattooed body stocking, and he put a poncho cut from camouflage netting over sequined leggings.McQueen's use of color was startling—into a landscape of army green and sand tones, he threw sudden shocks of acid yellow or hot pink. (One of his stunningly bright silk jumpsuits came complete with matching gas mask). He even summoned a genie, his face and body dyed blue, in an incongruous—if perfectly cut—brown suit. But the dramatics couldn't overshadow the true power of McQueen's tailored pieces. What he's mastered with his menswear is an easy, instinctive sensuality that is often missing from his women's collections.
Tim Blanks
June 27, 2004
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
597
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2006-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2006-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
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2,006
ready-to-wear
fall
Only Alexander McQueen could provide the astonishing feat of techno-magic that ended his show. Inside an empty glass pyramid, a mysterious puff of white smoke appeared from nowhere and spun in midair, slowly resolving itself into the moving, twisting shape of a woman enveloped in the billowing folds of a white dress. It was Kate Moss, her blonde hair and pale arms trailing in a dream-like apparition of fragility and beauty that danced for a few seconds, then shrank and dematerialized into the ether.This vision was in fact a state-of-the-art hologram—a piece by the video maker Baillie Walsh, art-directed by McQueen. The gown, a pale cascade of multiple organza ruffles, wasn't just an optical effect, though. It subsequently reappeared in the collection's victory line up, which wound its way around the glass box as the audience was still reverberating with wonder at witnessing this incredible event.The quality of the performance—and the extraordinary workmanship in the clothes that preceded it—was a timely reconfirmation of McQueen's unique powers as a showman-designer, and a far cry from the more straightforward presentations he¿s given the last few seasons. For this collection, he delved into his past, revisiting his Scottish family roots and refining the contents of the rampaging tartan "Highland Rape" show with which he began his career in London in the early nineties. Shorn of its original rawness and anger, the result was a poetic and technically accomplished tale that involved romantic images of Scottish fantasy heroines wandering glens and castle halls in vaguely Victorian tartan crinolines, bird-wing or antler-and-lace headdresses, feathered gowns, and pieces made from brocades that might have been dragged down from ancient wall-hangings.Some of McQueen's references—like the ones that influenced his sinuous black velvet dresses—appeared to be culled from pre-Raphaelite paintings of Lady Macbeth; others, like a fierce, bell-skirted warrior-woman plaid dress with lace armlets, seemed to owe more to punk. On the down-to-earth side, there was plenty of McQueen's sharp and salable tailoring on show, and some great coats, like a herringbone fur chesterfield. At the end, though, the ecstatic applause was primarily in honor of the experience—a memory that will go down as one of fashion's all-time highs.
Sarah Mower
March 2, 2006
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
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A preacher ranted apocalyptically on the soundtrack, Johnny Cash croakedPersonal Jesus, a blood-red moon hovered above the catwalk—the scene was set for another cinematic Alexander McQueen spectacle, this one a vision from hell, as he took care to point out in his accompanying notes. The presentation seemed (to this viewer at least) to depict the eventual transformation of healthy young men into the cadaverous undead, courtesy somewhere along the way of a bite from a very stylish vampire, a descendant perhaps of the Dracula that Gary Oldman portrayed some years ago. "Healthy" in McQueen's context meant healthily ambiguous—things kicked off with a parade of silk- or broderie-anglaise blouses, a fox fur draped over a languidly voluminous suit in a Prince of Wales check, trousers so high-waisted they would give Beau Brummel pause for thought. One droll touch was a Fair Isle sweater with skulls replacing the traditional pattern.A (not-so) gay zombie hussar signaled the arrival of a passage of more extreme ambiguities, such as a plaid kimono top with chrysanthemum appliqués that managed to be both punkish and effete. A sequence ofrobes de chambre—blood-red velvet, mustard-yellow silk, black-and-red satin—suggested Dracula at leisure in his library. Meanwhile, his handmaidens solemnly stalked the catwalk in the spectral form of ghoulish geishas.As for the man behind these visions? By comparison with the lost boys and girls who peopled his show, McQueen himself looked almost obscenely healthy as he took his bow in a chunky cable-knit sweater.
Tim Blanks
January 16, 2006
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander McQueen has changed. The commanding impresario who once took delight in scaring and astonishing his audience with stadium-filling shows and designing at the brink of scandal has—if we're to judge by the past two seasons—joined the regular ranks of ready-to-wear designers who line up their models like soldiers and march 'em on out with the collection.What that leaves us with is a clear view of clothes. Black suits, to start with—and though you couldn't exactly call them straight, something's changed in the cut of their jib, too. For spring, McQueen's signature tailoring has lost its exaggerated waist and jutting shoulders, and been replaced by more-wearable spencers with buttoned-back lapels. Beneath, he shows short flippy skirts, shorts, or pants with black opaque tights. There's a faint girl-rocker air about them—and a cape with a silver-beaded phoenix on the back somewhere in there—but nothing to scare the horses.For night, the part of the show McQueen said was inspired by Greek goddesses, things took a turn for the disappointing—tiny pleated silver lamé dresses, white crystal-beaded gowns and pieces made in bandage wrappings of white or gold elastic. The slot formerly occupied by his showstopping extravaganzas is now serviced by metalwork body costumes with all the finesse of something left over from an eighties sci-fi TV series. Gone, even, are the staggeringly made, couture-grade fantasy gowns that have brought so many brides banging on his door. Though some of his moves are clearly being made in an effort to sell—no criticism in itself—this show, from a designer whose capabilities have won such respect, was a letdown.
Sarah Mower
October 6, 2005
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
600
Alexander Mcqueen
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Alexander McQueen's conviction that there's romance in savagery found a perfect complement in the inspiration for his latest men's collection. William Golding'sLord of the Flies, the classic novel that spawned a forgettable Balthazar Getty movie, is a proto-Lost, weaving the tale of a group of schoolboys stranded on a desert island by a plane crash that kills the accompanying adults. Their descent from civilization to anarchy provided the framework for McQueen's spring show. Against a soundtrack of throbbing drums and a backdrop of draped parachutes, the designer opened with a group of expertly tailored "proper" clothes, all in white and just begging to be messed up.And after the initial emphasis on formality, as in a three-piece suit in cream linen, the mood steadily darkened. Hair got scruffier, clothes became less structured, more textured. A jacket-and-shorts set decorated with buttons suggested one of London's cockney Pearly Kings—or a castaway with too much time on his hands. A waistcoat and trousers trailing punky straps were poignantly printed with an old map. Then things fell apart, literally—washed leathers barely held together at the seams, a body stocking was split down its side. The escalating eccentricity encompassed a jumpsuit with trailing fringes, one cape of huge leaves made of leather, another of black coq feathers. A weathered black frock suit was an inverted mirror of the pristine white example that opened the show. There's no disputing McQueen's sense of drama—or romance, for that matter. However, this may be one instance when they combined to overwhelm coherence.
Tim Blanks
June 27, 2005
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
601
Alexander Mcqueen
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ready-to-wear
fall
In a season when the agendas of fashion are finally being rewritten, all a professional audience really comes to Paris for is to witness brilliant designers working on modern cut for twenty-first-century life—and to inspect it in close-up. Even on a Friday night, in rain and heavy weekend traffic, they will drag themselves to an inhospitable sports venue at the ends of the Périphérique to see an Alexander McQueen show with just those expectations. Unfortunately, the audience was confronted with a distracting, overwrought show that only succeeded in ramming home the realization that the theatrics and stadium-sized presentations of the nineties are—or rather should be—a thing of the past.To be fair, McQueen had put a heartfelt personal passion into a collection that was based on a startling revelation from his family history. His mother, who traces family trees, discovered that her bloodline leads back to a victim of the Salem witch trials who was hanged in the Puritan hysteria of 1692. The themes of witchcraft, paganism, and religious persecution played on the dark and angry side of McQueen's creativity, but the way he articulated them ultimately ended in one of the season's most deleterious cases of concept overwhelming clothes.First of all, there was a pentagram traced in red in a black-sand circle, with an inverted pyramid hanging over it. As the show started, a macabre film—of naked women, swarming locusts, faces decaying to skulls, and blood and fire—started to play above the models' heads. Theoretically, no one objects to being disturbed and discomforted by a pointed McQueen performance—it's an accepted part of his identity. What they did object to was that the point was lost in the distractions, and what interesting clothes did emerge could barely be appreciated at the distance he put between models and audience.The clothes were there, as far as it was possible to see. The opening of the show proved McQueen is thinking about new shape, in this case pod-like structures that broke the mold of his usual corseted silhouette. The volumes, shown over black leather leggings, moved toward a curved-back, forward-facing shape that put him somewhere in line with other experiments that are going on in Paris. McQueen's research on religion had found links between ancient Egypt and the folk culture of the earliest British immigrants to the New World, so there were Nefertiti hairdos and couture-detailed clothes fashioned to mimic the lapis lazuli and gold of sarcophagi. One blue dyed fur was shaved and shaded like overlapping feathers, and a gilded column and green jersey gown with coiled snakes at the breast looked fit for Elizabeth Taylor starring as Cleopatra.After that, though, it swiftly became a bumpy and difficult ride. Quieter pieces like a cardigan dress, a nipped-waist parka, and a shearling skirt (core items that sell so well for McQueen) got drowned by the gore flowing on the screens. At the end, there were some of the gowns he is so good at—a trail of emerald velvet with copper bugle-beaded strands of hair spilling to the waist, and a chic black silver-beaded gown that rippled from the shoulder line as it moved. Still, even those didn't have the power to fill the space or to placate an audience driven to the end of its tolerance by an experience that—journey and waiting-in-the-dark time included—took four hours. McQueen is too talented to get stuck in an outdated habit of presentation like this.
Sarah Mower
March 1, 2007
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
602
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2007-menswear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2007-menswear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…limit/00010m.jpg
2,007
menswear
fall
It's telling that when Alexander McQueen conceded an interest in superheroes for his new collection, the first creature that sprung to his mind was a warlock. Let's face it—he's always found the dark side a much more inspiring proposition than its sweetness 'n' light alternative, and for that we can all be heartily grateful, especially when it yields a collection as startling and individual as this. In purely technical terms, McQueen mastered a striking repertoire of effects, such as the silvery glaze on a gray flannel suit, the plastic coating on a Prince of Wales check, or the taffeta-and-felt bonding that turned scuba neoprene into the stuff of jackets and pea coats. Only McQueen could make a conceptual point of the interplay between the most luxurious natural fibers and the most Hazmat-toned synthetics (orange nylon was a particular standout).But that is hardly why McQueen's work continues to enthrall, even as his creativity ebbs and flows. He's the most cinematic of designers, and with this collection, he offered up a vision that combined the broad-shouldered, immaculately-tailored elegance of haute Hollywood with a dystopian futurism that left his models looking like glassy-eyed replicants. It was extraordinary, if a bit deadening. Still, the bugle-beaded jackets that McQueen presented as a finale must surely stand as the new century's definitive statement on male glamour—until his own next show, at least.
Tim Blanks
January 14, 2007
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
603
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2007-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…limit/00010m.jpg
2,007
ready-to-wear
spring
The story of the last few years of Alexander McQueen has been a long, frequently angry tussle between his love of grand theatrics (which often deflect energy and attention from the clothes) and the more sullen straight-up parades flung on to appease the commercial guys (which only deflate his critics' expectations). For the first time, his spring collection resolved those conflicting tensions in a presentation, staged in the round in the Cirque d'Hiver, that framed all his romantic, historicist accomplishments without veering too far in either direction.An ensemble of musicians and a dusty chandelier gave just enough background atmosphere to sustain the sequence of gracefully detailed Edwardiana, infanta dresses, and sharp signature tailoring. His collection notes quoted Barry Lyndon, Goya, and the Marchesa Casati, but really this was a revision of all the things the designer does best. Going back over his own history—as well as favorite points in fashion history—is something McQueen has done before; in this case it improved the sense of lightness and delicacy in his clothes. Nineteenth-century bodice-fitted jackets came out with chiffon jabot blouses and long skirts, followed by corseted dresses—some with hard, hip-exaggerated hourglass carapaces—which bloomed into lace-covered skirts. A palette of dusty gray, ivory, and faded pinks added to the poetic rendering of skills he has perfected over the years—both during his stint in couture at Givenchy and at the atelier he maintains in London to make wedding and special-occasion dresses.From this last, perhaps, and the young clients who come there, he's learned about the softness a woman wants in a romantic dress today. Still, the standouts were a couple of more modern looks perfect for less dressy evenings: gray pants with versions of the season's tunics over them, one in asymmetric tiers of dusty-rose lace, and the other a gold-leaf-tinged elongated T-shirt. Looking at it from a broader perspective, it's true to say that this self-referential McQueen collection did not contribute to the new debate about how fashion can move on from its fixation with the past. But as a summation of all he has to offer in the way of refinement, it was one of his best.
Sarah Mower
October 5, 2006
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
604
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2007-menswear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-menswear/alexander-mcqueen
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2,007
menswear
spring
Alexander McQueen's collections veer between extremes of creative profligacy and gimlet-eyed focus. His menswear for spring 2006 was an instance of the latter. The show was called "Harlem," a name that—in McQueen's mind, at least—doesn't only refer to the uptown NYC neighborhood. It's also an anagram of Mahler, whose music was used in Luchino Visconti'sDeath in Venice, the 1971 film adaptation of Thomas Mann's story of a turn-of-the-century composer obsessed with a beautiful young man. If that sounds like more backstory than one collection can handle, the designer somehow pulled it off, reconciling Visconti's fin-de-sièscle gorgeousness with the sartorial precision of Harlem's famously stylish dandies.McQueen went to town on the tailoring. The lapel of a Prince of Wales jacket was duded up with checked trim; the dogtooth pattern of a pair of trousers was picked out on the lapel of the accompanying jacket. And thebroderie anglaisethat decorated another jacket trailed down the matching trouser leg. These details were impressive in their delicacy. In fact, delicacy was the leitmotif of the collection, in a cardigan embroidered with flowers, in a top that wrapped the body, in a print of interlocking moth wings, and particularly in the pale pink-and-blue color scheme.The preciousness of the clothes suggested an old-school couturier devoted to making his clients feel cherished. It's not an especially male idea, which loaned a subtle audacity to the collection. But then we've come to expect nothing less from this designer. And in that light, mention must be made of the stunning Escher-like origami effect on a blouson and jacket—McQueen may be an arch-provocateur, but he's also a master technician.
Tim Blanks
June 26, 2006
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
605
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2008-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
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2,008
ready-to-wear
fall
The one element that has gone missing in the collections is the spine-tingling, eye-welling emotion of a show so exceptional to witness that—despite all exhaustion, cynicism, and workaday pressures—it suddenly transforms being involved in fashion into a magical privilege. Just when it seemed like that feeling was virtually extinct, Alexander McQueen handed his audience a self-imagined fantasy of crinolined princesses and British-colonial romance of such beauty, it arguably surpassed anything he's achieved in 14 years."I've got a 600-year-old elm tree in my garden," he said, "and I made up this story of a girl who lives in it and comes out of the darkness to meet a prince and become a queen." After a trip to India, the designer worked like a fiend for months in his studio, with images of Queen Victoria, the Duke of Wellington, and the Indian Empire running through his mind. They were transformed into ballerina-length multi-flounced dance dresses, each more insanely exquisite than the last: A miraculous red-feather-fronted number turned to burst into a froth of creamy frills in back; another came covered in baby-fine knitted lace; a third had a pair of peacocks—again fashioned from cutout black lace—with their tail feathers fanning out over ivory tulle petticoats.Interspersed were rigorously cut military tailcoats with taut pants detailed with military frogging, and slim brocade and cloque pantsuits with crisp white high-necked shirts. Then there was a stately parade of imperial-red and velvet jackets bedecked with millions of dollars' worth of antique Indian diadems and diamond neckpieces, and yet more incredible rich Empire-line saris and wispy dishabille transparencies. These were followed by a sequence of gold-encrusted, ermine-coated glory, echoing the heyday of Norman Hartnell and Hardy Aimes' fifties British couture as worn by Elizabeth II.Whatever had triggered this new lease of inspired design, it went further than the mere rendition of fanciful costume for the sake of telling a story. Importantly, McQueen finally found it in himself to quash the confining, uptight carapace that had held back former collections, replacing it with a new sense of lightness and femininity. Meanwhile, for all the transporting spectacle and extravagance, the narrative never submerged the sense that, within this wonder, there's plenty to wear, too. No coincidence, then, that McQueen today announced that his company has gone into profit for the first time. It was a day when his brilliance had never shone more brightly.
Sarah Mower
February 28, 2008
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
606
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2008-menswear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-menswear/alexander-mcqueen
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2,008
menswear
fall
At some point in the recent past, Alexander McQueen took a month to travel around the Indian subcontinent. The trip was significant enough that he saw it as a pilgrimage. But how to incorporate such a realization into a fashion collection? McQueen endeavored to establish a mood by printing his own photo of Mount Everest on the show invitation and playing a soundtrack of wind howling at the roof of the world as the audience filed in. But after that? The music switched to eighties English indie (the Cure, Echo and the Bunnymen), and the Enlightenment of the East—and all other ethnic inspirations—became an exotic accessory to what was fundamentally a collection of finely tailored suits, shirts, and trousers (and rather gorgeous shoes).To take one especially spectacular example: A traditional paisley pattern (Persian in origin) was embroidered on the sleeves of a coat, then it trailed off down the leg of the matching trousers before reappearing on the lapels of a suit and the shoulders of a sweater (which also featured a leopard-print collar). Here's another illustration: Sheeshedar, the mirrored Indian fabric you've seen in markets since time immemorial (or at least since hippies crossed the landmass from Asia to America), was used to make a pair of trousers—and matching shoes. Then it was teamed up with a poncho that could have been sliced from shaggy white yak wool. Just perfect for the backstage area of a Led Zeppelin reunion concert, but curiously incongruous for a McQueen fashion moment. Perhaps that was the problem with this show. Its polyglot Mongol-slash-MayaNational Geograph-ism felt like arbitrary window dressing for the designer's much darker, more refined aesthetic. Still, that cardigan with the attached blanket may come in handy for the next Ice Age.
Tim Blanks
January 12, 2008
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
607
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2008-ready-to-wear
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First, what must be said: Alexander McQueen's Spring collection was a tribute to the late Isabella Blow, the woman who discovered him, famously propelled his career from a student rack to a couture house, and faithfully wore his clothes—and Philip Treacy's hats—in their most extreme manifestations. Second, though: All terrible emotions apart, McQueen, like every other designer, can only be judged in the unsparing light of the general arena of fashion. To put it bluntly, this collection—after an off season last time—was going to stand or fall based on whether his clothes were any good.It stood. McQueen mustered the clarity to dispense with smoke and mirrors and show his capabilities in cut, drape, and feathered flourish to an audience near enough to inspect every detail. He stepped up to the plate by running through all his archived knowledge—Savile Row tailoring in Prince of Wales menswear check jackets and strict, strong-shouldered suiting, combined with the legacy of his couture experience in fan-pleated chiffon, goddess-y drape, and hand-crafted drama. The theme of birds—particularly symbolic of Blow—held the show together through a reprise of all the highlights of McQueen's career. The molded-hip silhouette of a jacket and dusty, twisted georgette gowns came from his Barry Lyndon show; the floating bird-of-paradise prints, from his "shipwreck" season; the ombré-printed vast-shouldered kimonos, from his Japanese couture collection for Givenchy; the trapezoid shapes, transposed from the tricorne hats of his "highwayman" moment; the lace stockings, reprised from hisThey Shoot Horses…performance. And so on.But this isn't really the point. McQueen has indulged in self-referential wallows in the past before, but this, for the most part, avoided that feeling. If some of his carapace-stiff shapes are as unviable as they ever were, the airy rainbow-bird-wing-printed pleating, an Art Nouveau-patterned blouse, and his romantic fairy-goddess chiffons put him back in the game of current trend (though they'd have been better without the fierce waist-cinching belts that looked like a hangover from winter). In all, McQueen honored his mentor by striving to bring out the best in himself.
Sarah Mower
October 5, 2007
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
608
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2008-menswear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-menswear/alexander-mcqueen
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2,008
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spring
There has been such a wave of surfing-related material recently that it's a wonder it's taken so long to filter into fashion. Well, surf is finally up for spring 2008. Alexander McQueen's latest collection offered the most precise exposition on the theme, partly because his inspiration (a 1961 LeRoy Grannis image of a kid surfing in black suit and white shirt) was so clear and so compatible with his own sense of theatrics, but more because McQueen is naturally drawn to any rebel spirit. Translation: His laid-back surfer dudes were fused with fifties bad boys in glittery rockabilly quiffs, tailored drapes, and drainpipes. For spring, the designer trawled across a landscape of idealized Americana, drawing together elements as typically contradictory as ten-pin bowlers (shoes and blousons), hippies (T-shirts embroidered with flowers and "LOVE," a print composed of sixties slogans—ah, yes, sock it to 'em!), and college students (letterman jackets with embroidered tigers). Neoprene leggings directly referenced the inspiration, but the surf print on an immaculately tailored jacket and the flamingo print that decorated shirts and linings were more subtle evocations of the theme.If it felt generally too studied and several continents away from McQueen's usual obsessions, there was always the surfer's credo of freedom and flight to ground the collection in the designer's own needs. And a muted finale of drowned boys in dripping-wet suits brought the show back to its source.
Tim Blanks
June 23, 2007
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
609
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2009-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
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ready-to-wear
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Alexander McQueen may be the last designer standing who is brave or foolhardy enough to present a collection that is an unadulterated piece of hard and ballsy showmanship. The heated arguments that broke out afterward were testament to that. There were those who found his picture of women with sex-doll lips and sometimes painfully theatrical costumes ugly and misogynistic. Others—mainly young spectators who haven't been thrilled by the season's many sensible pitches to middle-aged working women—were energized by the sheer spectacle, as well as the couture-level drama in the execution of the clothes.It was certainly meant as a last-stand fin de siècle blast against the predicament in which fashion, and possibly consumerism as a whole, finds itself. The set was a scrap heap of debris from the stages of McQueen's own past shows, surrounded by a shattered glass runway. The clothes were, for the most part, high-drama satires of twentieth-century landmark fashion: parodies of Christian Dior houndstooth New Look and Chanel tweed suits, moving through harsh orange and black harlequinade looks to revisited showstoppers from McQueen's own archive.The romantic side of McQueen's character, which rises intermittently in deliriously beautiful shows like his recent tribute to the Victorian empire, was emphatically in abeyance. This is a designer who has drawn so much poetry out of the past, yet this time his backward look appeared to be in something like anger, defiance, or possibly gallows humor. Some of the pieces, like a couple of swag-sided coats, seemed to be made of trash bags, accessorized with aluminum cans wrapped in plastic as headgear.Nevertheless, however frustrated McQueen may be by the state of commercial fashion, he was not really in absurdist rip-it-up mode. Whatever else is gnawing him, this is a man who will never compromise on construction and craftsmanship. This season, he'd noticeably forgone his typical carapace corsetry, making for slightly easier shapes, like boxy jackets, airy gazar dresses, and a fringed dogtooth sheath. For McQueen's faithful, there were also fiercely tailored coats, nipped in the waist and picking up on biker quilted leather and big-shouldered silhouettes. Evening-wise—sans the drag-queen makeup—there was a slim, black paillette homage-to-YSL wrapover dress with a red-lined hood that would stand up as elegant in any company.Ultimately, for all the feathered and sculpted showpieces that must have taken hundreds of seamstress-hours to perfect, this was a McQueen collection that didn't push fashion anywhere new. Yet that seemed to be exactly one of the things he was pointing to: the state of a collapsed economy that doesn't know how to move forward.
Sarah Mower
March 9, 2009
Alexander McQueen
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0
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
610
Alexander Mcqueen
pre-fall-2009
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2009/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…01fullscreen.jpg
2,009
pre-fall
The two distinct stories in Alexander McQueen's pre-fall collection elaborated on the themes of the spectacular collection he showed for men in Milan. One group had what was described as "a Dickensian opium den feeling." Dresses were fitted with high necks and the occasional bustle. The second group was all about country pursuits: a riding jacket, jodhpurs, shearling maxi skirts, and chunky hand knits. But you scarcely needed those guidelines to appreciate the dazzling craftsmanship of the clothes. McQueen's skill as a cutter is beyond dispute, but it was still impressive to see the way he deconstructed a mac to create a bustle-skirt shape or slashed a peacoat so it could do double duty as a cape. The slashes were lined in red, wounds that could be the work of the Ripper. The coat's lining was a print of a buttoned chesterfield. It looked like the interior of a coffin, just the kind of macabre detail that McQueen fans expect.
Tim Blanks
January 19, 2009
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
611
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2009-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
https://assets.vogue.com…10fullscreen.jpg
2,009
ready-to-wear
spring
Alexander McQueen, environmentalist? That was the unexpected message that emanated from the mouth of a runway that was backed by a video projection of a revolving Earth, and flanked by a zoo of stuffed animals: an elephant, giraffe, polar bear, lion, and assorted other endangered species. McQueen explained, through program notes, that he had been pondering Charles Darwin, the survival of the fittest, and the deleterious results of industrialization on the natural world.Strangely, the thought didn't set off one of his angry forays into the destructive side of human psychology. If anything, the beginning of the show—the section that dealt with a world untouched by man—unbuttoned the romanticism and delicacy that is, paradoxically, the strongest side of McQueen's appeal. Though his shapes hardly wavered from his signature frock coats, skinny-leg pants, and hourglass silhouettes, the wood-print tailoring was more fluid and some of the dresses exceptional. Pink or lemon flowers were trapped beneath short, nude netting shifts, and two of the season's most sublime forms of fringing came draped across the body in dégradé gray or swishing in pink filaments from a flapper dress.McQueen's couture sensibilities are breathtaking in close-up, where the detail of flowers and birds becomes visible in lace underlayers and then echoed in lace ankle-wrappings incorporated in shoes. He also gave himself over to a long passage of bright, multicolored allover prints, engineered to fit around jackets, leggings, and cocoon dresses—new on the Paris runway, but also part of general trend emanating from London's young designers. Even as the show moved into evening and the part that symbolized the negative impact of twenty-first-century evolution, the black crystal-encrusted dresses and bodysuits never quite descended into melodrama. McQueen said he "doesn't want to preach" about such a serious subject. More likely, he wants to sell next Spring, and this collection, with its color, detail, and eased-up tailoring, looks likely to be one of his most commercially viable.
Sarah Mower
October 2, 2008
Alexander McQueen
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0
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
612
Alexander Mcqueen
resort-2009
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2009/alexander-mcqueen
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2,009
resort
Alexander McQueen showed his women's pre-spring collection on the runway alongside his Spring menswear "because they both go into the shop together," but also to mark the season's commercial importance. How reassuring to hear from the designer that 60 percent of his business comes from these gorgeous, uncompromising outfits. There have been times when McQueen seemed like the new Charles James, but here, he was all about Travis Banton—the Hollywood costume designer who made Marlene Dietrich into a goddess. "Über-partying, über-glamour" was McQueen's theme. His always acute tailoring flawlessly contoured jackets and jumpsuits to the body (an all-in-one tux had nouvelle Marlene all over it). Bias-cutting and draping produced impactful party dresses. The chiffon that veiled fishtailed dresses was exquisitely embroidered with koi or hummingbirds. And the designer insisted that a heavily beaded holographic sheath reminded him of Natasha Henstridge's second skin inSpecies. It wouldn't be McQueen without a horror-movie moment.
Tim Blanks
June 21, 2008
Alexander McQueen
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1
Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
613