The results indicate that the Odor Detection Threshold increases significantly above baseline (test subjects are less sensitive) for the usage group using the formula containing the base perfume PD only, which was void of all sulfur and nitrogen PRM's after 4 weeks of usage, indicating habituation. Surprisingly, all components containing nitrogen chemistry showed improvement relative to the control. Table 8 Degree of Habituation (% change in group average ODT) Product Used Pink Daisy Perfume + Antihabituating material defined below for ODT Test Chemical Moiety of Antihabituating Material % Change in ODT at Week 4 Anti- habituation Index for four week test Formula X containing X.A - 3554 Highly Habituating, thus no index Formula X containing X.B 1-pyrazin-2-ylethanone (above threshold) Pyrazine comprising an acetyl moiety -84 4 Formula X containing X.C 3,7-dimethyloct-6-enenitrile (above threshold) Nitrile 221 Habituating, thus no index Formula X containing X.D 1H-indole (above threshold) Indole 208 Habituating, thus no index Formula X containing X.E Labienoxime (above threshold) Oxime -69 4 Formula X containing X.F 2-methoxy-3-(2-methylpropyl)pyrazine (below threshold) Pyrazine 110 Habituating, thus no index Formula X containing X.G 2-methoxy-3-(2-methylpropyl)pyrazine (above threshold) Pyrazine 339 Habituating, thus no index Formula XI Contains Comparative Perfume A Only 111 Habituating, thus no index Formula XII Contains Comparative Perfume C Only 405 Habituating, thus no index Formula X containing X,E is the only example falling within the scope of the invention. It is believed that the differences seen from Example 1, in which the base perfume had an anti-habituation index of 3 in the four week test, vs. Example 2, in which the base perfume had significant increase in ODT is beyond what is expected of individual variation among panelists and were related to the difference in perfume level (0.8% vs. 0.9%). Further, it is believed that the base perfume would be habituating, even at a lower perfume level if the test subjects used the product for a longer duration. The addition of nitrogen PRM's (non-sulfur-based) consistently showed greater resistance to habituation as compared to the control, regardless of perfume level tested.


At least the following methods are available for use in the present disclosure. Human panels have been trained to evaluate odors, such where the odors had the names, grassy green, green spicy, sweet, seasoned, sharp, soupy, mellow, metallic, fragrant fruity, cardboard-like, and complex (Kurobayashi et al (2006) Biosci. Biotechnol. Biochem. 70:958-965). The Kurobayashi et al, supra, study included detection of odor of terpenes, e.g., myrcene. Human panels have been trained to evaluate the level of odorants, including terpenes (linalool; L-carvone) on a scale of zero (extremely mild) to ten (extremely intense). Odorants were delivered to human subjects using an air stream. The subjects receiving the odorants, and providing subjective responses on odor intensity, also provided objective responses using electroolfactograms (EOG). The EOG test involved placing electrodes on the contralateral bridge of the nose, earlobe, and mastoids.

Google Patents public page, used as Phase-0 convenience access; prefer official APIs/bulk for systematic retrieval

Fetched public patent page; stored extracted spans only, not bulk full text.


The present disclosure provides terpene compositions that contain individual terpenes with a high volatility and low substantivity. Chemicals with a high volatility and low substantivity are used to give an initial burst of characters, such as light, fresh, fruity, citrus, green or floral, which are detected soon after application. Such materials are referred to, by the artisan skilled in the field of fragrances as “top notes”. Less volatile, and more substantive, chemicals, at least in perfumes, are used to give characters such as musk, sweet, balsamic, spicy, woody or heavy floral to the fragrance oil which, although may also be detected soon after application, also last for longer. The skilled artisan refers to these materials as “middle notes” or “base notes”. The skilled artisan can blend perfume raw materials so that the resultant fragrance oils have the desired overall fragrance character profile (see U.S. Pat. No. 7,208,464 of Heltovics, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety). “Top note” fragrances are “fragrances having a high vapor pressure, and when applied to a paper sachet, vaporization takes place within 2 hours, and no scent remains. “Middle note” fragrances are “fragrances having a medium vapor pressure, and when applied to a paper sachet, the scent remains from about 2 to about 6 hours. “Base note” fragrances are fragrances having a low vapor pressure and high retentivity, and when applied to a paper sachet, the scent remains for more than about 6 hours. The terms “top note”, “middle note”, and “base note” are recognized by those skilled in the art of fragrance-containing compositions. See, U.S. Pat. No. 6,013,618 of Morelli, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.


There are at least one of several drawbacks to the above described classical formulation approach. Firstly, classification of fragrance materials by their characters is subjective and therefore results in inconsistency in the fragrance profile under classical fragrance pyramid construction rules. Secondly, the perceived intensity of the fragrance profile of the conventional perfume compositions, particularly those characters attributable to the more volatile fragrance materials, decreases rapidly over time due to their quick evaporation. Accordingly, conventional perfume compositions will typically change their overall fragrance profile over time. This is a problem because it is desirable to maintain "fragrance profile fidelity" over time. In other words, it is desirable to maintain the same or substantively similar fragrance profile for a commercial fragrance over time, particularly over long periods of time (at least 4 hrs, 6 hrs, or even 8 hours after application). Thirdly, with the classical fragrance pyramid construction, the possible types of fragrance profiles have been somewhat limited. The consequence of using base notes at high levels is that many fragrance dry-downs appear repetitive, boring, non-memorable and uninteresting to consumers. However, if base notes are reduced or excluded then the fragrance intensity weakens over time and does not last for a sufficient duration. Lastly, it is generally accepted that some consumers desire prolonged intensity of select characters, particularly the floral, spicy or aromatic characters derived from the heart notes. Unfortunately, the consequence of using high levels of base notes is that they may impart particularly undesirable characters, such as for example, musky, woody, ambery, warm and sweet, which overpower and dominate the more desirable fragrance characters over time, particular over long periods of time. Thus, the unique challenge remains of selectively extending the more desirable characters attributable from the heart and/or top notes, particularly the heart notes, and even more particularly extending these desirable characters over long periods of time.


Thus, it is an advantage of the present invention to provide new rules for objectively classifying fragrance materials according to their volatility using their their vapor pressures defined at suitable temperature, instead of their characters. The new rules operate irrespective of perfumers performing the classification. In particular, the new rules classify the fragrance materials into low, moderate or high volatile fragrance materials for formulating into fragrance mixtures, particularly ones having a diamond construction. It is a further advantage of the present invention to provide compositions having improved fidelity to the perceived fragrance profile over time. It is yet a further advantage to provide a composition, wherein the character attributable to moderate and high volatile fragrance materials, particularly the moderate volatile fragrance materials, remains significantly consistent from its initial impression to the end. It is yet a further advantage to provide compositions having improved longevity of the perceived fragrance profile, preferably the characters attributable from the moderate or high volatile fragrance materials, particularly the moderate volatile fragrance material. It is yet a further advantage to provide compositions having stable quality of end product ( e.g., fragrance profile, visual appearance) substantially comparable to the classical fragrance pyramid three-tiered structure, preferably even after three months storage at 40 °C. It is yet a further advantage to be able to create new to the world fragrance profiles wherein one, or several, well-recognized moderate volatile fragrance material characters, are maintained over time, preferably for long periods of time ( e.g., greater than 4, 6, or even 8 hours).


The present invention provides a method for imparting, intensifying, or modifying an odour on human skin or human hair, comprising applying to human skin and/or human hair the composition of the present invention. It is preferred that the method is for imparting, intensifying or modifying the longevity of a floral character or aromatic/spicy character on human skin or human hair, wherein the perceived intensity of the floral character or aromatic/spicy character at 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs or 6 hrs after application is greater than a control composition that does not include the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator as determined by the panel method as disclosed herein.


At the testing facility, 50 µL samples of the compositions and the controls are applied to glass slides and placed on a hot plate at 32 °C to represent skin temperature for varying durations. It is important that glass slides of samples that are to be later compared are prepared at the same time. The panelists are asked to evaluate the perceived fragrance profile (intensity and/or character) of each glass slide sample at a given time point. Slides are presented coded so that their identity is not known by the panelists. Within a given time point panelists evaluate the slides in a random order and are able to revisit their assessment as they work through the slides at that time point. Their assessments are recorded. In the subsequent analysis, the data for strength and character comparisons are drawn from the independent assessments carried out at a given time point. Only when using the character difference scale below are any 2 products physically directly compared to each other. Panelists are selected from individuals who are either trained to evaluate fragrances according to the scales below or who have experience of fragrance evaluation in the industry. Typically, around 6-10 panellists are used to evaluate a given product and its control.


The panelists are asked to give a score on a scale of 0 to 5 for perceived fragrance intensity according to the odour intensity scale set out in Table 4 herein below. Table 4 - Odour Intensity Scale Score Fragrance Intensity 0 None 1 Very Weak 2 Weak 3 Moderate 4 Strong 5 Very Strong


1 hr
2 hrs
3 hrs
4 hrs
5 hrs
6 hrs
8 hrs
12 hrs

The following test is carried out to demonstrate the improved or enhanced longevity of a fragrance profile of a composition of the present invention vs. a control. In particular, the test measures the effect of a substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator on the evaporation rate of one or more fragrance materials (e.g., 10 PRMs) formulated in a composition. The evaporation response of the fragrance materials to the modulator, as a function of time, is measured through the use of gas chromatography ("GC"). 1. A test composition may comprise a substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (any one of the modulators as disclosed in Tables 4(a) and 4(b)) with either: (i) a fragrance material (any one of the moderate volatile fragrance materials as disclosed in Table 2 and high volatile fragrance materials as disclosed in Table 3), or (ii) a blend of fragrance materials from Tables 2 and 3 (as disclosed as Fragrance Example 6 in Table 11). The test compositions also contain high purity ethanol, such as Hayman 100%EP/BP grade, and deionized water. Samples test compositions are provided in Tables 19(a)-19(b). All of the ingredients are admixed until evenly distributed in the test compositions. 2. A control composition to the test composition described in 1 above, without the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator is made in a similar manner to Step 1, except that the missing substantially non-odorous modulator is replaced by deionized water. Sample control compositions are provided in Tables 19(a)-19(b). 3. An internal standard is needed to correct for variations of the amount of composition dispensed in the evaporation test as well as loss during the GC analysis. The internal standard has a vapor pressure of less than 0.001 Torr (0.000133 kPa) at 25 °C and is soluble in the composition and fragrance material. A suitable non-limiting example of an internal standard is triethyl citrate. The internal standard and fragrance material are admixed until evenly distributed at a level of 90 to 95 parts by weight of fragrance material and the required amount of internal standard to reach 100 parts. This mixture is then use to prepare the sample compositions in Step 1 and 2. Alternatively, the internal standard and test or control composition are admixed until evenly distributed at a level of 99 to 99.75 parts by weight of composition and the required amount of internal standard to reach 100 parts. This resultant solution is used in subsequent steps. 4. A hotplate is set to a temperature of 32 °C. An aluminum container, such as TA Instruments T-Zero ™ pan, is placed on the hotplate. 20 µL of the test or control composition is introduced in the aluminum container using a micropipette. Alternatively, the aluminum container may be filled with the test or control composition to its full capacity. The time at which this takes place is determined to be time zero ( i.e., T = 0). Multiple aluminum containers are prepared and left at the set temperature for pre-determined periods of time, such as for example 30 mins, 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs, 4 hrs, 5 hrs, 6 hrs, 8 hrs and up to 12 hrs. 5. The aluminum container is removed from the hotplate at the end of the pre-determined time period and transferred by being inserted into a 4 mL glass vial already containing at least 2 mL of highly volatile solvent, such as high purity ethanol or hexane. 6. The glass vial is mixed using a Heidolph multi REAX shaker, or equivalent, for 5 to 10 mins to extract the fragrance materials into the solvent phase. 1.5 mL of the resultant solution is transferred to a 2 mL GC vial. 7. The GC vial is analysed on an Agilent GC system 6890 equipped with an autosampler, or equivalent. A GC column such as a DB-5MS, Rxi-5 SilMS model or equivalent phase, with a length of 30 m, an inner diameter of 0.25 mm and a film thickness of 1 µm is used. The GC parameters are set to the values indicated as follows: Table 5(iii) - GC Parameters Injector temperature: 270 °C Initial gas velocity: 25 to 40 cm/sec (for Helium as the carrier gas) Initial oven temperature: 50 °C Temperature ramp: 8 °C/min Final oven temperature: 310 °C Gas chromatography with flame ionization detection ("FID") or with mass spectrometry ("MS") can be used for the identification and quantification of fragrance material in the compositions. Either detection system can be used in conjunction with GC. The column dimensions as well as GC settings described in this method, such as injector temperature, carrier gas velocity, temperature ramp and final oven temperature can be adjusted to optimize the response of the fragrance material and internal standard being monitored. The detection system settings, such as FID gas flows and temperature or MS parameters, should be optimized by a trained analyst to enable the precise detection and quantification of the analytes of interest. 8. The peak area of the fragrance material and internal standard are recorded. The peak area ratio of the fragrance material and the internal standard is calculated at each time point for each sample composition. The % of non-evaporated fragrance material remaining from T = 0 is calculated at each time point for each sample composition. The % fragrance material remaining in each composition is plotted to give an evaporation profile over time. This is done for both the test and control compositions. Significance is determined by comparison of the evaporation profile for the same fragrance material or same fragrance mixture in the test and control compositions.


The following test is carried out to demonstrate the character retention over time of a fragrance composition of the present invention vs. a control. It is necessary for the test and control samples to be run at approximately the same time to ensure that ambient conditions are the same. The test measures the presence of one or more fragrance materials in the headspace formed in a sealed vial by the test composition, after set evaporation times. The fragrance profile in the headspace is measured at specific time points through the use of headspace ("HS") gas chromatography ("GC"). 1. The test and control compositions as described in the Example section are used for the evaluation. 2. Capillaries of about 2 cm to 3.5 cm, with one sealed end are cut from a Sigma Aldrich "Stuart™ melting point tube" product code Z673269, or equivalent. A suitable fixed volume chosen between 50 and 200 µL of the composition is pipetted into the well of a VWR Tissue Culture 96 F well plate, or equivalent. The sealed end of the glass capillary is dipped into the filled well and left for at least 15 secs to wet the surface of the glass. Care must be taken not to contact the glass capillary with the sides of the well by maintaining it straight and approximately in the center of the well. 3. The glass capillary is then removed from the well and inverted or transferred onto a stable surface or into a holder and allowed to evaporate at ambient conditions for a set period of time. A windshield may be used to reduce high air turbulence. 4. The glass capillary is then introduced into an empty 20 mL HS vial, which is immediately closed with a PTFE cap. The time at which this takes place is determined to be time T = initial ( i.e., T = 10 mins). 5. Multiple glass capillaries are prepared in the same way and left to evaporate at ambient temperature for pre-detennined periods of time, such as for example 10, 15, 30 mins, 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs, 4 hrs, 5 hrs, and up to 6 hrs, before being introduced to the headspace vial and sealed. 6. The HS vial is then analysed on an Agilent GC system 6890 equipped with a Gerstel MPS 2 autosampler, or equivalent, capable of performing SPME injections. A SPME fiber assembly DVB/CAR/PDMS (50/30 µm, 1 cm length) is required. A GC column such as a DB-5MS, ZB-5MSi models, or equivalent phase, with a length of 30 m, an inner diameter of 0.25 mm and a film thickness of 1 µm is used. 7. The SPME HS parameters are set to the values indicated as follows: Table 5(iv) - SPME Parameters Incubation chamber temperature: 40 °C Incubation time: 20 mins Agitation of sample 250 RPM Extraction time 5 mins Desorption time 2 mins 8. The GC parameters are set to the values indicated as follows: Table 5(v) - GC Parameters Injector temperature: 270 °C Initial gas velocity: 20 to 40 cm/sec (for Helium as the carrier gas) Initial oven temperature: 45°C with 2 mins Hold Time Temperature ramp 1: 30 °C/min Temperature 1: 80 °C Temperature ramp 2: 8°C/min Final temperature: 300 °C Gas chromatography with flame ionization detection ("FID") or with mass spectrometry ("MS") can be used for the identification and quantification of fragrance material in the compositions. Either detection system can be used in conjunction with GC. The column dimensions as well as GC settings described in this method, such as injector temperature, carrier gas velocity, temperature ramp and final oven temperature can be adjusted to optimize the response of the fragrance material being monitored. The detection system settings, such as FID gas flows and temperature or MS parameters, should be optimized by a trained analyst to enable the precise detection and identification of the analytes of interest. 9. A qualitative assessment of the chromatograms obtained is performed by comparing the peak height of the fragrance materials and overall chromatogram at time T = 10 mins to other time points. A dotted line is drawn around an estimated retention time where fragrance materials with a vapour pressure of 0.001 Torr or less (0.000133 kPa or less) elute during the analysis. The difference between the peaks present at each measured time point for the test and control compositions provides evidence of the retention of the character of the fragrance over time. 10. This test set-up is designed to enable the collection of the headspace in a manner that does not saturate the SPME fiber. If the fiber is saturated it does not provide an accurate analysis of the headspace composition. Therefore the quantity of liquid and the evaporation surface area are very different from those in the olfactive evaluation of the same samples. For this reason it is not possible to compare directly the evaporation time frames used in the 2 experiments. It is expected that the evaporation profile is much faster in this headspace experiments compared to the olfactive evaluations.


Compositions disclosed in Tables 18(a)-18(d), 20, 21, and 22(a)-22(d) are applied to glass slides in accordance with the protocol described in the Method Section and a panel of 6-10 experienced panelists evaluate the perceived fragrance profile at initial time 0, then at various time points, typically 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours and 6 hours post application. Panelists are asked to score the compositions for the longevity and/or fidelity of the fragrance profile on a scale of 0 to 5, wherein 0 represents a no fragrance is detected and 5 represents a very strong fragrance intensity is detected. The results of the panelists are then averaged and discussed below.

6-10; 1 hour; 2 hours; 3 hours; 4 hours; 6 hours; 0 to 5


Figure 2 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 10 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Bis-methoxy PEG-13 PEG-438/PPG-110 SMDI Copolymer ( i.e., Expert Gel ® 56) and the single fragrance material Indocolore. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Expert Gel ® 56) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to at least 6 hours whilst the control, Composition B9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile much more over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the continued initial evaporation over time of the fragrance material. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 1, 3 and 6 hours (p < 0.0001) at 95% significance level ( i.e., p < 0.05) at all these time points.


Figure 3 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition C9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 9 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator propyl {4-[2-(diethylamino)-2-oxoethoxy]-3-methoxyphenyl}acetate ( i.e ., Kolliphor ® EL) and the single fragrance material Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Kolliphor ® EL) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to at least 6 hours whilst the control, Composition D9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile much more over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the reduced rate of evaporation over time of the fragrance material. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 1 hour (p < 0.0001), 3 hours (p = 0.0265) and 6 hours (p = 0.0388) at 95% significance level ( i.e., p < 0.05) at all these time points.


Figure 4 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition E9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 9 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator propyl {4-[2-(diethylamino)-2-oxoethoxy]-3-methoxyphenyl}acetate ( i.e ., Kolliphor ® EL) and the single fragrance material Eugenol. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Kolliphor ® EL) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to at least 6 hours whilst the control, Composition F9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile much more over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to supress the initial display of Eugenol and then maintains that continued initial evaporation over time. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 0 hours (p = 0.0025), 1 hour (p < 0.0001), 3 hours (p < 0.0001) and 6 hours (p < 0.0001) at 95% significance level ( i.e., p < 0.05) at all time points.


Figure 5 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition G9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 9 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator propyl {4-[2-(diethylamino)-2-oxoethoxy]-3-methoxyphenyl}acetate ( i.e ., Kolliphor ® EL) and the single fragrance material Phenethyl alcohol (PEA). Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Kolliphor ® EL) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material from 1 hour to 3 hours whilst the control, Composition H9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the reduced rate of evaporation over time of the fragrance material. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 1 hour (p < 0.0001) at 95% significance level ( i.e., p < 0.05) and at 3 hours (p = 0.0876) at 90% significance level ( i.e., p < 0.1).


Panelists are asked to score the compositions for the intensity of the fragrance on a scale of 0 to 5, wherein 0 represents a no fragrance intensity is detected and 5 represents a very strong fragrance intensity is detected. The results of the panel test are then averaged. The results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and diamond constructed fragrance materials for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile longevity versus control Compositions C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, F1, F2, F4, I1, I2, I4, L1, L2, L4, O1, and 02 in the absence of the substantially non-odorous modulator. Alternatively, the results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and diamond constructed fragrance materials for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile longevity versus traditional Compositions B1, B2, B3, B4, B5, E1, E2, E4, H1, H2, H4, K1, K2, K4, N1, and N2 in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator. Fragrance profile longevity, particularly intensity of the characters attributable to the volatile fragrance materials are maintained for up to at least 6 hours in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator whilst it drops in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator.


Figure 6 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A4 (as disclosed in Table 18(d)), which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether ( i.e ., Glucam™ P-20) and the Diamond Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20 maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C4, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20, and comprising the Traditional Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


Figure 7 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A4 (as disclosed in Table 18(d)), which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether ( i.e ., Glucam™ P-20) and the Diamond Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20 maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C4, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20, and comprising the Traditional Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


Figure 8 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A2 (as disclosed in Table 18(b)), which comprises 15 wt% substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate and 7 wt% Diamond Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C2, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate, and comprising 7 wt% Traditional Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


Figure 9 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A2 (as disclosed in Table 18(b)), which comprises 15 wt% substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate and 7 wt% Diamond Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C2, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate, and comprising 7 wt% Traditional Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the continued evaporation over time of the fragrance materials, particular the volatile fragrance materials. The effects of the improved fragrance profile longevity of the present invention are noticeable at, any one of, 1, 3 and 6 hours post application.


The test demonstrates the character retention over time of a fragrance composition. The results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and fragrance materials in a diamond construction for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile versus control Compositions C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, F1, F2, F4, I1, I2, I4, L1, L2, L4, O1, and 02 in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator. Alternatively, results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and fragrance materials in a diamond construction for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile longevity versus traditional Compositions B1, B2, B3, B4, B5, E1, E2, E4, H1, H2, H4, K1, K2, K4, N1, and N2 in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator. Fragrance profile fidelity, particularly of floral characters attributable to the volatile fragrance materials are maintained for up to at least 1 hour in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator whilst it drops in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator.


The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition maintains the perceived fragrance profile, particularly the characters attributable to the moderate volatile fragrance material and/or high volatile fragrance material, to remain substantively unchanged from application up to 2 hrs, 3 hrs, 4 hrs, 5 hrs, 6 hrs or 8 hrs after application vs. a control composition that does not include a diamond construction fragrance formulation and the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, as determined according to the Odour Test as described herein.

2 hrs; 3 hrs; 4 hrs; 5 hrs; 6 hrs; 8 hrs


The method according to claim 19, wherein the method is preferably for imparting, intensifying or modifying the longevity of a floral character on human skin or human hair, wherein the perceived intensity of the floral character at 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs or 6 hrs after application is greater than a control composition that does not include the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator as determined by the panel method as disclosed herein, and wherein the floral character is selected from the group consisting of lavender-type note, a rose-type note, a lily of the valley-type note, a muguet-type note, a jasmine-type note, a magnolia-type note, a cyclamen-type note, a hyacinth-type note, a lilac-type note, an orange blossom-type note, a cherry blossom-type note, a peony-type note, a lotus-type note, a linden blossom-type note, an osmanthus-type note, a lilac-type note, a heliotrope-type note, a violet-type note, an orris-type note, a tiare-type note, a patchouli-type note and the like.


There are at least one of several drawbacks to the above described classical formulation approach. Firstly, classification of fragrance materials by their characters is subjective and therefore results in inconsistency in the fragrance profile under classical fragrance pyramid construction rules. Secondly, the perceived intensity of the fragrance profile of the conventional perfume compositions, particularly those characters attributable to the more volatile fragrance materials, decreases rapidly over time due to their quick evaporation. Accordingly, conventional perfume compositions will typically change their overall fragrance profile over time. This is a problem because it is desirable to maintain “fragrance profile fidelity” over time. In other words, it is desirable to maintain the same or substantively similar fragrance profile for a commercial fragrance over time, particularly over long periods of time (at least 4 hrs, 6 hrs, or even 8 hours after application). Thirdly, with the classical fragrance pyramid construction, the possible types of fragrance profiles have been somewhat limited. The consequence of using base notes at high levels is that many fragrance dry-downs appear repetitive, boring, non-memorable and un-interesting to consumers. However, if base notes are reduced or excluded then the fragrance intensity weakens over time and does not last for a sufficient duration. Lastly, it is generally accepted that some consumers desire prolonged intensity of select characters, particularly the floral, spicy or aromatic characters derived from the heart notes. Unfortunately, the consequence of using high levels of base notes is that they may impart particularly undesirable characters, such as for example, musky, woody, ambery, warm and sweet, which overpower and dominate the more desirable fragrance characters over time, particular over long periods of time. Thus, the unique challenge remains of selectively extending the more desirable characters attributable from the heart and/or top notes, particularly the heart notes, and even more particularly extending these desirable characters over long periods of time.


Thus, it is an advantage of the present invention to provide new rules for objectively classifying fragrance materials according to their volatility using their their vapor pressures defined at suitable temperature, instead of their characters. The new rules operate irrespective of perfumers performing the classification. In particular, the new rules classify the fragrance materials into low, moderate or high volatile fragrance materials for formulating into fragrance mixtures, particularly ones having a diamond construction. It is a further advantage of the present invention to provide compositions having improved fidelity to the perceived fragrance profile over time. It is yet a further advantage to provide a composition, wherein the character attributable to moderate and high volatile fragrance materials, particularly the moderate volatile fragrance materials, remains significantly consistent from its initial impression to the end. It is yet a further advantage to provide compositions having improved longevity of the perceived fragrance profile, preferably the characters attributable from the moderate or high volatile fragrance materials, particularly the moderate volatile fragrance material. It is yet a further advantage to provide compositions having stable quality of end product (e.g., fragrance profile, visual appearance) substantially comparable to the classical fragrance pyramid three-tiered structure, preferably even after three months storage at 40° C. It is yet a further advantage to be able to create new to the world fragrance profiles wherein one, or several, well-recognized moderate volatile fragrance material characters, are maintained over time, preferably for long periods of time (e.g., greater than 4, 6, or even 8 hours).


The present invention provides a method for imparting, intensifying, or modifying an odour on human skin or human hair, comprising applying to human skin and/or human hair the composition of the present invention. It is preferred that the method is for imparting, intensifying or modifying the longevity of a floral character or aromatic/spicy character on human skin or human hair, wherein the perceived intensity of the floral character or aromatic/spicy character at 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs or 6 hrs after application is greater than a control composition that does not include the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator as determined by the panel method as disclosed herein.


At the testing facility, 50 μL samples of the compositions and the controls are applied to glass slides and placed on a hot plate at 32° C. to represent skin temperature for varying durations. It is important that glass slides of samples that are to be later compared are prepared at the same time. The panelists are asked to evaluate the perceived fragrance profile (intensity and/or character) of each glass slide sample at a given time point. Slides are presented coded so that their identity is not known by the panelists. Within a given time point panelists evaluate the slides in a random order and are able to revisit their assessment as they work through the slides at that time point. Their assessments are recorded. In the subsequent analysis, the data for strength and character comparisons are drawn from the independent assessments carried out at a given time point. Only when using the character difference scale below are any 2 products physically directly compared to each other. Panelists are selected from individuals who are either trained to evaluate fragrances according to the scales below or who have experience of fragrance evaluation in the industry. Typically, around 6-10 panellists are used to evaluate a given product and its control.


The panelists are asked to give a score on a scale of 0 to 5 for perceived fragrance intensity according to the odour intensity scale set out in Table 4 herein below.


1 hr; 2 hrs; 3 hrs; 4 hrs; 5 hrs; 6 hrs; 50/30

1. The test and control compositions as described in the Example section are used for the evaluation. 2. Capillaries of about 2 cm to 3.5 cm, with one sealed end are cut from a Sigma Aldrich “Stuart™ melting point tube” product code Z673269, or equivalent. A suitable fixed volume chosen between 50 and 200 μL of the composition is pipetted into the well of a VWR Tissue Culture 96 F well plate, or equivalent. The sealed end of the glass capillary is dipped into the filled well and left for at least 15 secs to wet the surface of the glass. Care must be taken not to contact the glass capillary with the sides of the well by maintaining it straight and approximately in the center of the well. 3. The glass capillary is then removed from the well and inverted or transferred onto a stable surface or into a holder and allowed to evaporate at ambient conditions for a set period of time. A windshield may be used to reduce high air turbulence. 4. The glass capillary is then introduced into an empty 20 mL HS vial, which is immediately closed with a PTFE cap. The time at which this takes place is determined to be time T=initial (i.e., T=10 mins). 5. Multiple glass capillaries are prepared in the same way and left to evaporate at ambient temperature for pre-determined periods of time, such as for example 10, 15, 30 mins, 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs, 4 hrs, 5 hrs, and up to 6 hrs, before being introduced to the headspace vial and sealed. 6. The HS vial is then analysed on an Agilent GC system 6890 equipped with a Gerstel MPS 2 autosampler, or equivalent, capable of performing SPME injections. A SPME fiber assembly DVB/CAR/PDMS (50/30 μm, 1 cm length) is required. A GC column such as a DB-5MS, ZB-5MSi models, or equivalent phase, with a length of 30 m, an inner diameter of 0.25 mm and a film thickness of 1 μm is used. 7. The SPME HS parameters are set to the values indicated as follows:


5. Multiple glass capillaries are prepared in the same way and left to evaporate at ambient temperature for pre-determined periods of time, such as for example 10, 15, 30 mins, 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs, 4 hrs, 5 hrs, and up to 6 hrs, before being introduced to the headspace vial and sealed.


Compositions disclosed in Tables 18(a)-18(d), 20, 21, and 22(a)-22(d) are applied to glass slides in accordance with the protocol described in the Method Section and a panel of 6-10 experienced panelists evaluate the perceived fragrance profile at initial time 0, then at various time points, typically 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours and 6 hours post application. Panelists are asked to score the compositions for the longevity and/or fidelity of the fragrance profile on a scale of 0 to 5, wherein 0 represents a no fragrance is detected and 5 represents a very strong fragrance intensity is detected. The results of the panelists are then averaged and discussed below.


FIG. 2 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 10 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Bis-methoxy PEG-13 PEG-438/PPG-110 SMDI Copolymer (i.e., Expert Gel® 56) and the single fragrance material Indocolore. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Expert Gel® 56) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to at least 6 hours whilst the control, Composition B9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile much more over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the continued initial evaporation over time of the fragrance material. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 1, 3 and 6 hours (p<0.0001) at 95% significance level (i.e., p<0.05) at all these time points.


FIG. 3 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition C9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 9 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator propyl {4-[2-(diethylamino)-2-oxoethoxy]-3-methoxyphenyl}acetate (i.e., Kolliphor® EL) and the single fragrance material Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Kolliphor® EL) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to at least 6 hours whilst the control, Composition D9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile much more over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the reduced rate of evaporation over time of the fragrance material. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 1 hour (p<0.0001), 3 hours (p=0.0265) and 6 hours (p=0.0388) at 95% significance level (i.e., p<0.05) at all these time points.


FIG. 4 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition E9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 9 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator propyl {4-[2-(diethylamino)-2-oxoethoxy]-3-methoxyphenyl}acetate (i.e., Kolliphor® EL) and the single fragrance material Eugenol. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Kolliphor® EL) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to at least 6 hours whilst the control, Composition F9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile much more over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to suppress the initial display of Eugenol and then maintains that continued initial evaporation over time. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 0 hours (p=0.0025), 1 hour (p<0.0001), 3 hours (p<0.0001) and 6 hours (p<0.0001) at 95% significance level (i.e., p<0.05) at all time points.


FIG. 5 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition G9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 9 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator propyl {4-[2-(diethylamino)-2-oxoethoxy]-3-methoxyphenyl}acetate (i.e., Kolliphor® EL) and the single fragrance material Phenethyl alcohol (PEA). Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Kolliphor® EL) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material from 1 hour to 3 hours whilst the control, Composition H9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the reduced rate of evaporation over time of the fragrance material. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 1 hour (p<0.0001) at 95% significance level (i.e., p<0.05) and at 3 hours (p=0.0876) at 90% significance level (i.e., p<0.1).


Panelists are asked to score the compositions for the intensity of the fragrance on a scale of 0 to 5, wherein 0 represents a no fragrance intensity is detected and 5 represents a very strong fragrance intensity is detected. The results of the panel test are then averaged. The results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and diamond constructed fragrance materials for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile longevity versus control Compositions C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, F1, F2, F4, I1, I2, I4, L1, L2, L4, O1, and O2 in the absence of the substantially non-odorous modulator. Alternatively, the results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and diamond constructed fragrance materials for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile longevity versus traditional Compositions B1, B2, B3, B4, B5, E1, E2, E4, H1, H2, H4, K1, K2, K4, N1, and N2 in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator. Fragrance profile longevity, particularly intensity of the characters attributable to the volatile fragrance materials are maintained for up to at least 6 hours in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator whilst it drops in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator.


FIG. 6 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A4 (as disclosed in Table 18(d)), which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether (i.e., Glucam™ P-20) and the Diamond Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20 maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C4, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20, and comprising the Traditional Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


FIG. 7 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A4 (as disclosed in Table 18(d)), which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether (i.e., Glucam™ P-20) and the Diamond Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20 maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C4, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20, and comprising the Traditional Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


FIG. 8 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A2 (as disclosed in Table 18(b)), which comprises 15 wt % substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate and 7 wt % Diamond Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C2, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate, and comprising 7 wt % Traditional Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


FIG. 9 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A2 (as disclosed in Table 18(b)), which comprises 15 wt % substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate and 7 wt % Diamond Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C2, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate, and comprising 7 wt % Traditional Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the continued evaporation over time of the fragrance materials, particular the volatile fragrance materials. The effects of the improved fragrance profile longevity of the present invention are noticeable at, any one of, 1, 3 and 6 hours post application.


The test demonstrates the character retention over time of a fragrance composition. The results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and fragrance materials in a diamond construction for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile versus control Compositions C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, F1, F2, F4, I1, I2, I4, L1, L2, L4, O1, and O2 in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator. Alternatively, results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and fragrance materials in a diamond construction for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile longevity versus traditional Compositions B1, B2, B3, B4, B5, E1, E2, E4, H1, H2, H4, K1, K2, K4, N1, and N2 in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator. Fragrance profile fidelity, particularly of floral characters attributable to the volatile fragrance materials are maintained for up to at least 1 hour in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator whilst it drops in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator.


There are at least one of several drawbacks to the above described classical formulation approach. Firstly, classification of fragrance materials by their characters is subjective and therefore results in inconsistency in the fragrance profile under classical fragrance pyramid construction rules. Secondly, the perceived intensity of the fragrance profile of the conventional perfume compositions, particularly those characters attributable to the more volatile fragrance materials, decreases rapidly over time due to their quick evaporation. Accordingly, conventional perfume compositions will typically change their overall fragrance profile over time. This is a problem because it is desirable to maintain “fragrance profile fidelity” over time. In other words, it is desirable to maintain the same or substantively similar fragrance profile for a commercial fragrance over time, particularly over long periods of time (at least 4 hrs, 6 hrs, or even 8 hours after application). Thirdly, with the classical fragrance pyramid construction, the possible types of fragrance profiles have been somewhat limited. The consequence of using base notes at high levels is that many fragrance dry-downs appear repetitive, boring, non-memorable and un-interesting to consumers. However, if base notes are reduced or excluded then the fragrance intensity weakens over time and does not last for a sufficient duration. Lastly, it is generally accepted that some consumers desire prolonged intensity of select characters, particularly the floral, spicy or aromatic characters derived from the heart notes. Unfortunately, the consequence of using high levels of base notes is that they may impart particularly undesirable characters, such as for example, musky, woody, ambery, warm and sweet, which overpower and dominate the more desirable fragrance characters over time, particular over long periods of time. Thus, the unique challenge remains of selectively extending the more desirable characters attributable from the heart and/or top notes, particularly the heart notes, and even more particularly extending these desirable characters over long periods of time.


Thus, it is an advantage of the present invention to provide new rules for objectively classifying fragrance materials according to their volatility using their their vapor pressures defined at suitable temperature, instead of their characters. The new rules operate irrespective of perfumers performing the classification. In particular, the new rules classify the fragrance materials into low, moderate or high volatile fragrance materials for formulating into fragrance mixtures, particularly ones having a diamond construction. It is a further advantage of the present invention to provide compositions having improved fidelity to the perceived fragrance profile over time. It is yet a further advantage to provide a composition, wherein the character attributable to moderate and high volatile fragrance materials, particularly the moderate volatile fragrance materials, remains significantly consistent from its initial impression to the end. It is yet a further advantage to provide compositions having improved longevity of the perceived fragrance profile, preferably the characters attributable from the moderate or high volatile fragrance materials, particularly the moderate volatile fragrance material. It is yet a further advantage to provide compositions having stable quality of end product (e.g., fragrance profile, visual appearance) substantially comparable to the classical fragrance pyramid three-tiered structure, preferably even after three months storage at 40° C. It is yet a further advantage to be able to create new to the world fragrance profiles wherein one, or several, well-recognized moderate volatile fragrance material characters, are maintained over time, preferably for long periods of time (e.g., greater than 4, 6, or even 8 hours).


The present invention provides a method for imparting, intensifying, or modifying an odour on human skin or human hair, comprising applying to human skin and/or human hair the composition of the present invention. It is preferred that the method is for imparting, intensifying or modifying the longevity of a floral character or aromatic/spicy character on human skin or human hair, wherein the perceived intensity of the floral character or aromatic/spicy character at 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs or 6 hrs after application is greater than a control composition that does not include the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator as determined by the panel method as disclosed herein.


At the testing facility, 50 μL samples of the compositions and the controls are applied to glass slides and placed on a hot plate at 32° C. to represent skin temperature for varying durations. It is important that glass slides of samples that are to be later compared are prepared at the same time. The panelists are asked to evaluate the perceived fragrance profile (intensity and/or character) of each glass slide sample at a given time point. Slides are presented coded so that their identity is not known by the panelists. Within a given time point panelists evaluate the slides in a random order and are able to revisit their assessment as they work through the slides at that time point. Their assessments are recorded. In the subsequent analysis, the data for strength and character comparisons are drawn from the independent assessments carried out at a given time point. Only when using the character difference scale below are any 2 products physically directly compared to each other. Panelists are selected from individuals who are either trained to evaluate fragrances according to the scales below or who have experience of fragrance evaluation in the industry. Typically, around 6-10 panellists are used to evaluate a given product and its control.


The panelists are asked to give a score on a scale of 0 to 5 for perceived fragrance intensity according to the odour intensity scale set out in Table 4 herein below.


1. The test and control compositions as described in the Example section are used for the evaluation. 2. Capillaries of about 2 cm to 3.5 cm, with one sealed end are cut from a Sigma Aldrich “Stuart™ melting point tube” product code Z673269, or equivalent. A suitable fixed volume chosen between 50 and 200 μL of the composition is pipetted into the well of a VWR Tissue Culture 96 F well plate, or equivalent. The sealed end of the glass capillary is dipped into the filled well and left for at least 15 secs to wet the surface of the glass. Care must be taken not to contact the glass capillary with the sides of the well by maintaining it straight and approximately in the center of the well. 3. The glass capillary is then removed from the well and inverted or transferred onto a stable surface or into a holder and allowed to evaporate at ambient conditions for a set period of time. A windshield may be used to reduce high air turbulence. 4. The glass capillary is then introduced into an empty 20 mL HS vial, which is immediately closed with a PTFE cap. The time at which this takes place is determined to be time T=initial (i.e., T=10 mins) 5. Multiple glass capillaries are prepared in the same way and left to evaporate at ambient temperature for pre-determined periods of time, such as for example 10, 15, 30 mins, 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs, 4 hrs, 5 hrs, and up to 6 hrs, before being introduced to the headspace vial and sealed. 6. The HS vial is then analysed on an Agilent GC system 6890 equipped with a Gerstel MPS 2 autosampler, or equivalent, capable of performing SPME injections. A SPME fiber assembly DVB/CAR/PDMS (50/30 μm, 1 cm length) is required. A GC column such as a DB-5MS, ZB-SMSi models, or equivalent phase, with a length of 30 m, an inner diameter of 0.25 mm and a film thickness of 1 μm is used. 7. The SPME HS parameters are set to the values indicated as follows:


5. Multiple glass capillaries are prepared in the same way and left to evaporate at ambient temperature for pre-determined periods of time, such as for example 10, 15, 30 mins, 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs, 4 hrs, 5 hrs, and up to 6 hrs, before being introduced to the headspace vial and sealed.


Compositions disclosed in Tables 18(a)-18(d), 20, 21, and 22(a)-22(d) are applied to glass slides in accordance with the protocol described in the Method Section and a panel of 6-10 experienced panelists evaluate the perceived fragrance profile at initial time 0, then at various time points, typically 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours and 6 hours post application. Panelists are asked to score the compositions for the longevity and/or fidelity of the fragrance profile on a scale of 0 to 5, wherein 0 represents a no fragrance is detected and 5 represents a very strong fragrance intensity is detected. The results of the panelists are then averaged and discussed below.


FIG. 2 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 10 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Bis-methoxy PEG-13 PEG-438/PPG-110 SMDI Copolymer (i.e., Expert Gel® 56) and the single fragrance material Indocolore. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Expert Gel® 56) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to at least 6 hours whilst the control, Composition B9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile much more over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the continued initial evaporation over time of the fragrance material. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 1, 3 and 6 hours (p<0.0001) at 95% significance level (i.e., p<0.05) at all these time points.


FIG. 3 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition C9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 9 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator propyl {4-[2-(diethylamino)-2-oxoethoxy]-3-methoxyphenyl}acetate (i.e., Kolliphor® EL) and the single fragrance material Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Kolliphor® EL) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to at least 6 hours whilst the control, Composition D9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile much more over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the reduced rate of evaporation over time of the fragrance material. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 1 hour (p<0.0001), 3 hours (p=0.0265) and 6 hours (p=0.0388) at 95% significance level (i.e., p<0.05) at all these time points.


FIG. 4 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition E9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 9 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator propyl {4-[2-(diethylamino)-2-oxoethoxy]-3-methoxyphenyl}acetate (i.e., Kolliphor® EL) and the single fragrance material Eugenol. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Kolliphor® EL) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to at least 6 hours whilst the control, Composition F9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile much more over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to supress the initial display of Eugenol and then maintains that continued initial evaporation over time. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 0 hours (p=0.0025), 1 hour (p<0.0001), 3 hours (p<0.0001) and 6 hours (p<0.0001) at 95% significance level (i.e., p<0.05) at all time points.


FIG. 5 shows the fragrance intensity profile of Composition G9 (as disclosed in Table 22(c)) as evaluated by 9 panelists, which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator propyl {4-[2-(diethylamino)-2-oxoethoxy]-3-methoxyphenyl}acetate (i.e., Kolliphor® EL) and the single fragrance material Phenethyl alcohol (PEA). Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (Kolliphor® EL) maintains the intensity of the fragrance material from 1 hour to 3 hours whilst the control, Composition H9, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, drops in fragrance intensity profile over this time. The substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the reduced rate of evaporation over time of the fragrance material. Statistical analysis using the Tukey correction for multiple comparisons confirms the statistically significant difference at 1 hour (p<0.0001) at 95% significance level (i.e., p<0.05) and at 3 hours (p=0.0876) at 90% significance level (i.e., p<0.1).


Panelists are asked to score the compositions for the intensity of the fragrance on a scale of 0 to 5, wherein 0 represents a no fragrance intensity is detected and 5 represents a very strong fragrance intensity is detected. The results of the panel test are then averaged. The results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and diamond constructed fragrance materials for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile longevity versus control Compositions C2, C3, C4, C5, F1, F2, F4, I1, I2, I4, L1, L2, L4, O1, and O2 in the absence of the substantially non-odorous modulator. Alternatively, the results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and diamond constructed fragrance materials for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile longevity versus traditional Compositions B1, B2, B3, B4, B5, E1, E2, E4, H1, H2, H4, K1, K2, K4, N1, and N2 in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator. Fragrance profile longevity, particularly intensity of the characters attributable to the volatile fragrance materials are maintained for up to at least 6 hours in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator whilst it drops in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator.


FIG. 6 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A4 (as disclosed in Table 18(d)), which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether (i.e., Glucam™ P-20) and the Diamond Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20 maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C4, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20, and comprising the Traditional Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


FIG. 7 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A4 (as disclosed in Table 18(d)), which comprises the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether (i.e., Glucam™ P-20) and the Diamond Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20 maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C4, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Glucam™ P-20, and comprising the Traditional Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


FIG. 8 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A2 (as disclosed in Table 18(b)), which comprises 15 wt % substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate and 7 wt % Diamond Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C2, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate, and comprising 7 wt % Traditional Floral Magnifica Fragrance Example 4a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


FIG. 9 provides the fragrance intensity profile of Composition A2 (as disclosed in Table 18(b)), which comprises 15 wt % substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate and 7 wt % Diamond Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5b. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate maintains the intensity of the fragrance material for up to 6 hours. As compared to the control Composition C2, in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator Diisobutyl Adipate, and comprising 7 wt % Traditional Muguesia Magnifica Fragrance Example 5a drops in fragrance intensity over the 6 hours.


Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the continued evaporation over time of the fragrance materials, particular the volatile fragrance materials. The effects of the improved fragrance profile longevity of the present invention are noticeable at, any one of, 1, 3 and 6 hours post application.


The test demonstrates the character retention over time of a fragrance composition. The results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and fragrance materials in a diamond construction for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile versus control Compositions C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, F1, F2, F4, I1, I2, I4, L1, L2, L4, O1, and O2 in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator. Alternatively, results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and fragrance materials in a diamond construction for any one of the inventive Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D1, D2, D4, G1, G2, G4, J1, J2, J4, M1, and M2 on fragrance profile longevity versus traditional Compositions B1, B2, B3, B4, B5, E1, E2, E4, H1, H2, H4, K1, K2, K4, N1, and N2 in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator. Fragrance profile fidelity, particularly of floral characters attributable to the volatile fragrance materials are maintained for up to at least 1 hour in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator whilst it drops in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator.


There are at least one of several drawbacks to the above described classical formulation approach. Firstly, classification of fragrance materials by their aromas is subjective and therefore results in inconsistency with the construction of the fragrance profile under classical fragrance pyramid construction rules. Secondly, the perceived intensity of the fragrance profile of the conventional perfume compositions, particularly those aromas attributable to the more volatile fragrance materials, decreases rapidly over time due to their quick evaporation. Accordingly, conventional perfume compositions will typically change their overall fragrance profile over time. This is a problem because it is desirable to maintain "fragrance profile fidelity" over time. In other words, it is desirable to maintain the same or substantively similar fragrance profile for a commercial fragrance over time, particularly over long periods of time (at least 4 hrs, 6 hrs, or even 8 hours after application). Thirdly, with the classical fragrance pyramid construction, the possible types of fragrance profiles have been somewhat limited. The consequence of using base notes at high levels is that many fragrance dry-downs appear repetitive, boring, non-memorable and un-interesting to consumers. However, if base notes are reduced or excluded then the fragrance intensity weakens over time and does not last for a sufficient duration. Lastly, it is generally accepted that some consumers desire prolonged intensity of select aromas, particularly the floral, spicy or aromatic aromas derived from the heart notes. Unfortunately, the consequence of using high levels of base notes is that they may impart particularly undesirable aroma characters, such as for example, musky, woody, ambery, warm and sweet, which overpower and dominate the more desirable fragrance characters over time, particular over long periods of time. Thus, the unique challenge remains of selectively extending the more desirable aromas attributable from the heart and/or top notes, particularly the heart notes, and even more particularly extending these desirable aromas over long periods of time,


Thus, it is an advantage of the present invention to provide new rules for objectively classifying fragrance materials according to their volatility using their their vapor pressures defined at suitable temperature, instead of their aromas. The new rules operate irrespective of the perfumers performing the classification. In particular, the new rules classify the fragrance materials into low, moderate or high volatile fragrance materials for formulating into fragrance mixtures, particularly ones having a diamond construction. It is a further advantage of the present invention to provide compositions having improved fidelity to the perceived fragrance profile over time. It is yet a further advantage to provide a composition, wherein the aroma attributable to moderate and high volatile fragrance materials, particularly the moderate volatile fragrance materials, remains significantly consistent from its initial impression to the end. It is yet a further advantage to provide compositions having improved longevity of the perceived fragrance profile, preferably the aromas attributable from the moderate or high volatile fragrance materials, particularly the moderate volatile fragrance material. It is yet a further advantage to provide compositions having stable quality of end product (e.g., fragrance profile, visual appearance) substantially comparable to the classical fragrance pyramid three-tiered structure, preferably even after three months storage at 40 °C. It is yet a further advantage to be able to create new to the world fragrance profiles wherein one, or several, well-recognized moderate volatile fragrance material characters, are maintained over time, preferably for long periods of time (e.g., > 4, 6, or even 8 hours).


The present invention provides a method for imparting, intensifying, or modifying an odour on human skin or human hair, comprising applying to human skin and/or human hair the composition of the present invention. It is preferred that the method is for imparting, intensifying or modifying the longevity of a floral aroma or aromatic/spicy aroma on human skin or human hair, wherein the perceived intensity of the floral aroma or aromatic/spicy aroma at 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs or 6 hrs after application is greater than a control composition that does not include the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator as determined by the panel method as disclosed herein.


At the testing facility, 50 µL samples of the compositions or the controls are applied to glass slides and placed on a hot plate at 32 °C to represent skin temperature for varying durations. The panelists are asked to evaluate the perceived fragrance profile (intensity and/or character) from each pair of samples, i.e. , that of the test composition of the present invention vs. the corresponding control, at time 0 and later time points (1, 2, 3 4 and 6 hours post application) as the fragrance profile evolves. Their assessments are recorded. Panelists are selected from individuals who are either trained to evaluate fragrances according to the scales below or who have experience of fragrance evaluation in the industry.


The panelists are asked to give a score on a scale of 0 to 5 for perceived fragrance intensity according to the odour intensity scale set out in Table 4 herein below. Table 4 - Odour Intensity Scale Score Fragrance Intensity 0 None 1 Very Weak 2 Weak 3 Moderate 4 Strong 5 Very Strong


The following test is carried out to demonstrate the improved or enhanced longevity of a fragrance profile of a composition of the present invention vs. a control. In particular, the test measures the effect of a substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator on the evaporation rate of one or more fragrance materials formulated in a composition. The evaporation response of the fragrance materials to the modulator, as a function of time, is measured through the use of gas chromatography ("GC"). 1. A test composition comprising the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator with either: (i) a fragrance material, or (ii) a blend of fragrance materials is made. The inventive compositions also contain high purity ethanol, such as Hayman 100%EP/BP grade, and deionised water. Samples tests compositions are provided in Tables 18 and 19. All of the ingredients are admixed until evenly distributed in the test compositions. 2. A control composition, without the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator or with normal or high levels of the low volatile fragrance materials, is made in a similar manner to Step 1. Sample control compositions are provided in Tables 18 and 19. 3. An internal standard is needed to correct for variations of the amount of composition dispensed in the evaporation test as well as loss during the GC analysis. The internal standard has a vapor pressure of less than 0.001 Torr at 25 °C and is soluble in the composition and fragrance material. Suitable non-limiting examples of internal standard include: isopropyl myristate or triethyl citrate. The internal standard and fragrance material are admixed until evenly distributed at a level of 90 to 95 parts by weight of fragrance material and the required amount of internal standard to reach 100 parts. This mixture is then use to prepare the sample compositions in Step 1 and 2. Alternatively, the internal standard and test or control composition are admixed until evenly distributed at a level of 99 to 99.75 parts by weight of composition and the required amount of internal standard to reach 100 parts. This resultant solution is used in subsequent steps. 4. A hotplate is set to a temperature of 32 °C. An aluminum container, such as TA Instruments T-Zero™ pan or lids, or a Cole Parmer Micro aluminum weighing dish, with dimensions 12 mm (L) x 4 mm (W) x 2.7 mm (H), is placed on the hotplate. 20 µL of the test or control composition is introduced in the aluminum container using a micropipette. Alternatively, the aluminum container may be filled with the test or control composition to its full capacity. The time at which this takes place is determined to be time zero ( i.e., T=0). Multiple aluminum containers are prepared and left at the set temperature for pre-determined periods of time, such as for example 20 mins, 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs, 4 hrs, 5 hrs, 6 hrs, 8 hrs and up to 12 hrs. 5. The aluminum container is removed from the hotplate at the end of the pre-determined time period and transferred by being inserted into a 4 mL glass vial already containing at least 2 mL of highly volatile solvent, such as high purity ethanol or hexane. 6. The glass vial is mixed using a Heidolph multi REAX shaker for 5 to 10 mins to extract the fragrance materials into the solvent phase. 1.5mL of the resultant solution is transferred to a 2 mL GC vial. 7. The GC vial is analysed on an Agilent GC system 6890B equipped with an autosampler, or equivalent. A GC column such as a DB-5 or Rxi-5 SilMS model, with a length of 30 m, an inner diameter of 0.25 mm and a film thickness of 1 µm is used. The GC parameters are set to the values indicated as follows: Table 5(iii) - GC Parameters Injector temperature: 270 °C Initial gas velocity: 25 to 40 cm/sec (for Helium as the carrier gas) Initial oven temperature: 50 °C Temperature ramp: 8 °C/min Final oven temperature: 310 °C Gas chromatography with flame ionization detection ("FID") or with mass spectrometry ("MS") can be used for the identification and quantification of fragrance material in the compositions. Either detection system can be used in conjunction with GC. The column dimensions as well as GC settings described in this method, such as injector temperature, carrier gas velocity, temperature ramp and final oven temperature can be adjusted to optimize the response of the fragrance material and internal standard being monitored. The detection system settings, such as FID gas flows and temperature or MS parameters, should be optimized by a trained analyst to enable the precise detection and quantification of the analytes of interest. 8. The peak area of the fragrance material and internal standard are recorded. The peak area ratio of the fragrance material and the internal standard is calculated at each time point for each sample composition and the % loss from T=0 calculated. Significance is determined by comparison with the % loss for the same fragrance material or fragrance mixture in the control composition.


Compositions disclosed in Tables 18-21 are applied to glass slides in accordance with the protocol described in the Method Section and a panel of 10 experienced panelists evaluate the perceived fragrance profile at initial time 0, then at various time points, typically 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours and 6 hours post application. Panellists are asked to score the compositions for the longevity and/or fidelity of the fragrance profile on a scale of 0 to 5, wherein 0 represents a no fragrance is detected and 5 represents a very strong fragrance intensity is detected. The results of the panellists are then averaged and discussed below.

18-21; 1 hour; 2 hours; 3 hours; 4 hours; 6 hours; 0 to 5


Panellists are asked to score the compositions for the intensity of the fragrance on a scale of 0 to 5, wherein 0 represents no fragrance intensity is detected and 5 represents a very strong fragrance intensity is detected. The results of the panel test are then averaged. The results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and reduced levels of low volatile fragrance materials for Compositions A, D, G, J and M on fragrance profile longevity and fidelity. Fragrance profile longevity, particularly intensity of the aromas attributable to the volatile fragrance materials are maintained for up to at least 6 hours in the presence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator whilst it drops in the absence of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator acts to maintain the continued evaporation over time of the fragrance materials, particular the volatile fragrance materials. The effect of the improved fragrance profile longevity of the present invention are noticeable at 1, 3 and 6 hours. Statistical analysis for multiple comparisons confirm the statistically significant difference between the 2 products at various time points.


Panellists are asked to score the compositions for the intensity of the fragrance on a scale of 0 to 5, wherein 0 represents a no fragrance intensity is detected and 5 represents a very strong fragrance intensity is detected. The results of the panel test are then averaged. The results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and excessive levels of low volatile fragrance materials for Compositions B, E, H, K and N on fragrance profile longevity and fidelity. Two outcomes are observed: (i) either the fragrance profile longevity is unaffected by the addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (There are no statistical differences between the 2 products.) or (ii) the fragrance profile appears to be suppressed with a loss of strength (data not shown). Panellists are also asked to score the Compositions B, E, H, K and N for the dominance of the floral aromas on a scale of 0 to 3 wherein 0 represents not detectable and 3 represents it being the dominant character. The results of the panel test are then averaged. The results show the effect of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator and excessive levels of low volatile fragrance materials for Compositions B, E, H, K and N on fidelity of the floral aromas attributable to the volatile fragrance materials. It is observed that the floral aromas is perceived initially but then drops quickly over time. Addition of the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator does not result in improved fidelity of the floral aromas as seen in Compositions B, E, H, K and N. There are no statistical differences between the 2 products.


The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein tthe composition maintains the perceived fragrance profile, particularly the aromas attributable to the moderate volatile fragrance material and/or high volatile fragrance material, to remain substantively unchanged from application up to 2 hrs, 3 hrs, 4 hrs, 5 hrs, 6 hrs or 8 hrs after application vs. a control composition that does not include a diamond construction fragrance formulation and the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator, as determined according to the Odour Test as described herein.


The method of claim 17, wherein the method is preferably for imparting, intensifying or modifying the longevity of a floral aroma on human skin or human hair, wherein the perceived intensity of the floral aroma at 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs or 6 hrs after application is greater than a control composition that does not include the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator as determined by the panel method as disclosed herein, and wherein the floral aroma is selected from the group consisting of lavender-type note, a rose-type note, a lily of the valley-type note, a muguet-type note, a jasmine-type note, a magnolia-type note, a cyclamen-type note, a hyacinth-type note, a lilac-type note, an orange blossom-type note, a cherry blossom-type note, a peony-type note, a lotus-type note, a linden blossom-type note, an osmanthus-type note, a lilac-type note, a heliotrope-type note, a violet-type note, an orris-type note, a tiare-type note, a patchouli-type note and the like.


Beyond extending the initial impression of the fragrance, the strength and longevity of the high volatile fragrances can be improved. For example, according to some embodiments, compositions having improved longevity of the perceived fragrance profile can be present for long periods of time (e.g., greater than 30 mins, 1, 2, 4, 6, or even 8 hours). The improved longevity of the high volatile fragrances may result from the modulator slowing the evaporation of the high and moderate volatile fragrances from the composition.


At the testing facility, 50 µL samples of the compositions and the controls are applied to glass slides and placed on a hot plate at 32 °C to represent skin temperature for varying durations. It is important that glass slides of samples that are to be later compared are prepared at the same time. The panelists are asked to evaluate the perceived fragrance profile (intensity and/or character) of each glass slide sample at a given time point. Slides are presented coded so that their identity is not known by the panelists. Within a given time point panelists evaluate the slides in a random order and are able to revisit their assessment as they work through the slides at that time point. Their assessments are recorded. In the subsequent analysis, the data for strength and character comparisons are drawn from the independent assessments carried out at a given time point. Only when using the character difference scale below are any 2 products physically directly compared to each other. Panelists are selected from individuals who are either trained to evaluate fragrances according to the scales below or who have experience of fragrance evaluation in the industry. Typically, around 4-6 expert panelists are used to evaluate a given product and its control.


The panelists are asked to give a score on a scale of 0 to 5 for perceived fragrance intensity according to the odour intensity scale set out in Table 5 herein below. Table 5 - Odour Intensity Scale Score Fragrance Intensity 0 None 1 Very Weak 2 Weak 3 Moderate 4 Strong 5 Very Strong


1 hr
2 hrs
3 hrs
4 hrs
5 hrs
6 hrs
8 hrs
12 hrs
180 minutes
120 minutes
60 minutes
30 minutes
15 minutes

1 to 6; 90 to 95; 1 hr; 2 hrs; 3 hrs; 4 hrs; 5 hrs; 6 hrs; 8 hrs; 12 hrs; 5 to 10; 25 to 40; 180 minutes; 120 minutes; 60 minutes; 30 minutes; 15 minutes

The following test is carried out to demonstrate the improved or enhanced longevity of a fragrance profile of a composition of the present invention vs. a control. In particular, the test measures the effect of a substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator on the evaporation rate of one or more fragrance materials formulated in a composition. The evaporation response of the fragrance materials to the modulator, as a function of time, is measured through the use of gas chromatography ("GC"). 1. A test composition may comprise a substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator (any one of the modulators as disclosed in Tables 4(a) and 4(b)) with either: (i) a fragrance material (any one of the moderate volatile fragrance materials as disclosed in Table 2 and 2a and high volatile fragrance materials as disclosed in Table 3 and 3a, or (ii) a blend of fragrance materials from Tables 1a, 1b, 2a, 2b, 3a and 3c (as disclosed as Fragrance Examples 1 to 6 ). The test compositions also contain ethanol, and deionized water. Samples test compositions are provided in Tables 13, 14, 15 and 15 (d). All of the ingredients are admixed until evenly distributed in the test compositions. 2. A control composition to the test composition described in 1 above, without the substantially non-odorous fragrance modulator is made in a similar manner to Step 1, except that the missing substantially non-odorous modulator is replaced by deionized water. Sample control compositions are provided in Tables 13, 14, 15 and 15 (d) 3. An internal standard is needed to correct for variations of the amount of composition dispensed in the evaporation test as well as loss during the GC analysis. The internal standard has a vapor pressure of less than 0.001 Torr (0.000133 kPa) at 25 °C and is soluble in the composition and fragrance material. Alternatively the internal standard has a vapor pressure of less than 0.001 Torr (0.000133 kPa) at 25 °C and is soluble in ethanol or an ethanol/water solvent mixture to prepare an internal standard solution, which is then added to the fragrance material or composition. Suitable non-limiting examples of internal standards are triethyl citrate or denatonium benzoate. The internal standard and fragrance material, or blend of fragrance materials, are admixed until evenly distributed at a level of 90 to 95 parts by weight of fragrance material and the required amount of internal standard to reach 100 parts. This mixture is then used to prepare the sample compositions in Step 1 and 2. Alternatively, the internal standard is dissolved and diluted with ethanol or an ethanol/water mixture to obtain a solution. The internal standard solution and test or control composition are admixed until evenly distributed such that the resultant solution contains between 0.25 and 1.5% by weight of internal standard This resultant solution is used in subsequent steps. 4. A hotplate is set to a temperature of 32 °C. An aluminum container, such as TA Instruments T-Zero ™ pan, is placed on the hotplate. 20 µL of the test or control composition is introduced in the aluminum container using a micropipette. Alternatively, the aluminum container may be filled with the test or control composition to its full capacity. The time at which this takes place is determined to be time zero ( i.e., T = 0). Multiple aluminum containers are prepared and left at the set temperature for pre-determined periods of time, such as for example 15 mins, 30 mins, 1 hr, 2 hrs, 3 hrs, 4 hrs, 5 hrs, 6 hrs, 8 hrs and up to 12 hrs. 5. The aluminum container is removed from the hotplate at the end of the pre-determined time period and transferred by being inserted into a 4 mL glass vial already containing at least 2 mL of highly volatile solvent, such as high purity ethanol or hexane. 6. The glass vial is mixed using a Heidolph multi REAX shaker, or equivalent, for 5 to 10 mins to extract the fragrance materials into the solvent phase. 1 mL of the resultant solution is transferred to a 2 mL GC vial. 7. The GC vial is analysed on an Agilent GC system 6890 equipped with an autosampler, or equivalent. A GC column such as a DB-5MS, ZB-5 lMSi models or equivalent phase, with a length of 30 m, an inner diameter of 0.25 mm and a film thickness of 1 µm is used. The GC parameters are set to the values indicated as follows: Table 6(iii) - GC Parameters Injector temperature: 250 °C Initial gas velocity: 25 to 40 cm/sec (for Helium as the carrier gas) Initial oven temperature: 50 °C Temperature ramp: 7 °C/min Final oven temperature: 325 °C Gas chromatograp hy with flame ionization detection ("FID") or with mass spectrometry ("MS") can be used for the identification and quantification of fragrance material in the compositions. Either detection system can be used in conjunction with GC. The column dimensions as well as GC settings described in this method, such as injector temperature, carrier gas velocity, temperature ramp and final oven temperature can be adjusted to optimize the response of the fragrance material and internal standard being monitored. The detection system settings, such as FID gas flows and temperature or MS parameters, should be optimized by a trained analyst to enable the precise detection and quantification of the analytes of interest. 8. The peak area of the fragrance material and internal standard are recorded. The peak area ratio of the fragrance material and the internal standard is calculated at each time point for each sample composition. The % of non-evaporated fragrance material remaining from T = 0 is calculated at each time point for each sample composition. The % fragrance material remaining in each composition is plotted to give an evaporation profile over time. This is done for both the test and control compositions. Significance is determined by comparison of the evaporation profile for the same fragrance material or same fragrance mixture in the test and control compositions. In addition, the sum of peak areas for a group of fragrance materials, such as high or moderate volatile fragrance materials, is calculated and used to determine the percentage of such materials remaining in each composition. Unidentified peaks were excluded. From the generated data the decay of the high volatility fragrance materials were analyzed. To determine the error, tests were run in triplicate and an average of the % fragrance materials remaining and a standard deviation value were calculated. An example of data output is shown in Table 6(iv). The output shows the standard deviation at 180 minutes, 120 minutes, 60 minutes, 30 minutes, and 15 minutes. Modulators tested include iso cetyl alcohol (ICA), Glucam, and a reference product (REF). Table 6(iv): % remaining 180 120 60 30 15 ICA Average 2.09 3.14 5.06 10.63 22.34 ICA SD 0.50 0.90 0.90 0.52 1.54 REF Average 0.11 0.27 1.34 3.67 6.60 REF SD 0.03 0.07 0.07 0.22 1.74 Glucam average 1.37 2.22 4.11 6.91 13.07 Glucam SD 0.93 0.99 1.33 1.87 3.25


The present invention relates to the field of perfumery. In particular, the compositions of the present invention have improved or enhanced fidelity and/or longevity of the fragrance profile, which is achieved by adding a specific sucrose based fragrance modulator as defined in the appended claims. Fragrance modulators do already exist, see e.g. [EP 1 186 289 A2](https://patents.google.com/patent/EP1186289A2) (TAKASAGO PERFUMERY CO LTD \[JP\]) 13 March 2002 (2002-03-13).

Firecrawl scrape of Google Patents public page