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Great Britain
# Contents
## Plan Your Trip
### Welcome to Great Britain
### Great Britain's Top 26
### Need to Know
### First Time Great Britain
### What's New
### If You Like...
### Month by Month
### Itineraries
### The Great Outdoors
### Eat & Drink Like a Local
### Travel with Children
### Regions at a Glance
## On The Road
### England
### London
#### London Highlights
#### History
#### Sights
#### City Walk
#### City Walk
#### Tours
#### Festivals & Events
#### Sleeping
#### Eating
#### Drinking & Nightlife
#### Entertainment
#### Shopping
#### Information
### Canterbury & Southeast England
#### Canterbury
#### Leeds Castle
#### Margate
#### Broadstairs
#### Ramsgate
#### Sandwich
#### Dover
#### Around Dover
#### Rye
#### Battle
#### Hastings
#### Eastbourne
#### Around Eastbourne
#### Brighton & Hove
#### Arundel
#### Chichester
#### Around Chichester
#### Farnham
#### Hindhead
### Oxford, Cotswolds & Around
#### Oxford, Cotswolds & Around Highlights
#### Oxford
#### Around Oxford
#### Woodstock
#### Witney
#### Vale of the White Horse
#### The Cotswolds
#### Cirencester
#### Bibury
#### Burford
#### Minster Lovell
#### Driving Tour
#### Northleach
#### The Slaughters
#### Stow-on-the-Wold
#### Chipping Norton
#### Moreton-in-Marsh
#### Chipping Campden
#### Broadway
#### Winchcombe
#### Painswick
#### Stroud
#### Tetbury
#### Uley
#### Western Gloucestershire
#### Berkeley
#### Cheltenham
#### Forest of Dean
#### Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire & Hertfordshire
#### Stowe
#### Bletchley
#### Woburn
#### Waddesdon
#### St Albans
#### The Thames Valley
#### Windsor & Eton
#### Bray
#### Henley-on-Thames
### Bath & Southwest England
#### Southwest England Highlights
#### Hampshire
#### Winchester
#### Portsmouth
#### New Forest
#### Lyndhurst, Brockenhurst & Around
#### Buckler's Hard
#### Lymington
#### Isle of Wight
#### Cowes & Around
#### Ryde to Shanklin
#### Ventnor & Around
#### West Wight
#### Dorset
#### Bournemouth
#### Poole
#### Southeast Dorset
#### Dorchester & Around
#### Cerne Abbas & the Cerne Giant
#### Weymouth
#### Isle of Portland
#### Chesil Beach
#### Lyme Regis
#### Sherborne
#### Shaftesbury & Around
#### Wiltshire
#### Salisbury & Around
#### Stonehenge
#### Around Stonehenge
#### Stourhead
#### Longleat
#### Malmesbury
#### Lacock
#### Avebury
#### Exmoor National Park
#### Dulverton
#### Lynton & Lynmouth
#### Porlock & Around
#### Dunster
#### Devon
#### Exeter & Around
#### Torquay & Around
#### Brixham
#### Dartmouth & Around
#### Totnes & Around
#### Plymouth & Around
#### Dartmoor National Park
#### Driving Tour
#### Croyde & Braunton
#### Ilfracombe & Around
#### Clovelly & Around
#### Bristol
#### Bath
#### City Walk
#### Somerset
#### Wells & Around
#### Glastonbury
#### Taunton & Around
#### Cornwall
#### Bude
#### Boscastle
#### Tintagel
#### Port Isaac
#### Padstow & Rock
#### Newquay
#### Perranporth to Porthtowan
#### St Ives
#### Zennor & St Just
#### Sennen & Land's End
#### Mousehole
#### Penzance
#### The Lizard
#### Falmouth & Around
#### Truro
#### Fowey
#### Polperro
#### Looe
#### Southeast Cornwall & the Rame Peninsula
#### Bodmin Moor
#### Isles of Scilly
#### St Mary's
#### Tresco
#### Bryher
#### St Martin's
#### St Agnes
### Cambridge & East Anglia
#### Cambridge
#### Grantchester
#### Imperial War Museum
#### Ely
#### Colchester
#### Dedham Vale
#### Saffron Walden
#### Southend-on-Sea
#### Long Melford
#### Sudbury
#### Lavenham
#### Bury St Edmunds
#### Orford
#### Aldeburgh
#### Southwold
#### Norwich
#### North Coast Norfolk
#### King's Lynn & Around
### Birmingham, the Midlands & the Marches
#### Birmingham, the Midlands & the Marches Highlights
#### Birmingham
#### Warwickshire
#### Coventry
#### Warwick
#### Kenilworth
#### Stratford-upon-Avon
#### Around Stratford-upon-Avon
#### Staffordshire
#### Stafford
#### Lichfield
#### Worcestershire
#### Worcester
#### Great Malvern
#### Herefordshire
#### Hereford
#### Ross-on-Wye
#### Ledbury
#### Shropshire
#### Shrewsbury
#### Attingham Park
#### Ironbridge Gorge
#### Much Wenlock
#### Around Much Wenlock
#### Bridgnorth & Around
#### Church Stretton & Around
#### Bishop's Castle
#### Ludlow
#### Nottinghamshire
#### Nottingham
#### Around Nottingham
#### Southwell
#### Newark-on-Trent
#### Lincolnshire
#### Lincoln
#### Stamford
#### Boston
#### Northamptonshire
#### Northampton
#### Around Northampton
#### Leicestershire
#### Leicester
#### Around Leicester
#### Derbyshire
#### Derby
#### Around Derby
#### Matlock Bath
#### Chesterfield
#### Hardwick Hall
#### Peak District
#### Driving Tour
#### Buxton
#### Castleton & Around
#### Derwent Reservoirs
#### Edale
#### Eyam
#### Bakewell & Around
### Yorkshire
#### York
#### Castle Howard
#### Harrogate
#### Scarborough
#### Helmsley
#### Rievaulx
#### Pickering
#### Whitby
#### Robin Hood's Bay
#### Skipton
#### Grassington
#### Malham
#### Ribblesdale & the Three Peaks
#### Hawes
#### Richmond
#### Leeds
#### Bradford
#### Saltaire
#### National Coal Mining Museum for England
#### Yorkshire Sculpture Park
#### Hepworth Wakefield
#### Hebden Bridge
#### Haworth
#### Sheffield
#### Hull
#### Beverley
### Manchester, Liverpool & Northwest England
#### Manchester, Liverpool & Northwest England Highlights
#### Manchester
#### Cheshire
#### Chester
#### Around Chester
#### Liverpool
#### Lancashire
#### Blackpool
#### Lancaster
#### Ribble Valley
#### Isle of Man
#### Douglas
#### Around Douglas
#### Castletown & Around
#### Peel & Around
### The Lake District & Cumbria
#### Windermere & Around
#### Troutbeck
#### Ambleside & Around
#### Grasmere
#### Hawkshead & Around
#### Coniston
#### Elterwater & Great Langdale
#### Wasdale
#### Cockermouth
#### Keswick
#### Borrowdale
#### Honister Pass
#### Buttermere
#### Ullswater & Around
#### Kendal
#### Around Kendal
#### Carlisle
#### Alston
#### Penrith
### Newcastle & Northeast England
#### Newcastle & Northeast England Highlights
#### Newcastle-upon-Tyne
#### Around Newcastle
#### Angel of the North
#### Tynemouth
#### Segedunum
#### Hartlepool
#### County Durham
#### Durham
#### Barnard Castle
#### North Pennines
#### Hadrian's Wall
#### Corbridge
#### Hexham
#### Chesters Roman Fort & Museum
#### Haltwhistle & Around
#### Northumberland National Park
#### Northumberland Coast
#### Driving Tour
#### Alnwick
#### Craster
#### Embleton Bay
#### Farne Islands
#### Bamburgh
#### Holy Island (Lindisfarne)
#### Berwick-upon-Tweed
### Wales
### Cardiff, Pembrokeshire & South Wales
#### Cardiff, Pembrokeshire & South Wales Highlights
#### Cardiff (Caerdydd)
#### Around Cardiff
#### Penarth
#### Barry (Y Barri)
#### Castell Coch
#### Caerphilly (Caerffili)
#### Southeast Wales
#### Newport (Casnewydd)
#### Caerleon
#### Chepstow (Cas-gwent)
#### Lower Wye Valley
#### Monmouth (Trefynwy)
#### Skenfrith
#### Blaenavon (Blaenafon)
#### Swansea & the Gower
#### Swansea (Abertawe)
#### Mumbles (Y Mwmbwls)
#### Gower Peninsula (Y Gwyr)
#### Carmarthenshire (Sir Gaerfyrddin)
#### Llandeilo & Around
#### Kidwelly (Cydweli)
#### Carmarthen (Caerfyrddin)
#### Laugharne (Talacharn)
#### Pembrokeshire (Sir Benfro)
#### Narberth (Arberth)
#### Tenby (Dinbych-y-Pysgod)
#### West of Tenby
#### Carew
#### Pembroke (Penfro)
#### Marloes Sands & Around
#### Solva (Solfach)
#### St Davids (Tyddewi)
#### Walking Tour
#### Porthgain
#### Fishguard (Abergwaun)
#### Newport (Trefdraeth)
#### Preseli Hills (Mynydd Preseli)
### Hay-on-Wye & Mid-Wales
#### Cardigan (Aberteifi)
#### Aberystwyth
#### Devil's Bridge
#### Black Mountain (Mynydd Du) & Fforest Fawr
#### Brecon (Aberhonddu) & Around
#### Crickhowell (Crughywel)
#### Abergavenny (Y Fenni)
#### Black Mountains (Y Mynyddoedd Duon)
#### Hay-on-Wye (Y Gelli Gandryll)
#### Llanwrtyd Wells (Llanwrtyd)
#### Llandrindod Wells (Llandrindod)
#### Rhayader (Rhaeadr Gwy)
#### Presteigne (Llanandras)
#### Knighton (Tref-Y-Clawdd)
#### Newtown (Y Drenewydd)
#### Montgomery
#### Machynlleth
### Snowdonia & North Wales
#### Snowdonia & North Wales Highlights
#### Snowdonia National Park
#### Llanberis
#### Betws-y-Coed
#### Beddgelert
#### Walking Tour
#### Capel Curig
#### Snowdon
#### Bala (Y Bala)
#### Dolgellau
#### Mawddach Estuary
#### Fairbourne
#### Barmouth (Abermaw)
#### Harlech
#### WEST OF SNOWDONIA
#### Caernarfon
#### Llyn Peninsula
#### Porthmadog & Around
#### ISLE OF ANGLESEY
#### Beaumaris (Biwmares)
#### Holyhead (Caergybi)
#### NORTH COAST & BORDERS
#### Llandudno
#### Conwy
#### Llangollen
#### Ruthin
#### Bangor
### Scotland
### Edinburgh
#### History
#### Edinburgh Highlights
#### Sights
#### Activities
#### Walking Tour
#### Tours
#### Festivals & Events
#### Sleeping
#### Eating
#### Drinking & Nightlife
#### Entertainment
#### Shopping
### Glasgow & Southern Scotland
#### Glasgow & Southern Scotland Highlights
#### Glasgow
#### City Walk
#### Around Glasgow
#### Lanark & New Lanark
#### Borders Region
#### Kelso
#### Melrose
#### Around Melrose
#### Jedburgh
#### Peebles
#### Cycling Tour
#### Ayrshire
#### Ayr
#### Alloway
#### Culzean Castle & Country Park
#### Dumfries & Galloway
#### Dumfries
#### South Of Dumfries
#### Kirkcudbright
#### Galloway Forest Park
#### The Machars
#### Stranraer
#### Portpatrick
### Argyll, Central & Northeast Scotland
#### Stirling
#### The Trossachs
#### Loch Lomond & Around
#### Inveraray
#### Kilmartin Glen
#### Kintyre
#### Isle of Arran
#### Isle of Islay
#### Isle of Jura
#### Oban
#### Isle of Mull
#### Isle of Iona
#### St Andrews
#### East Neuk
#### Falkland
#### Dunfermline
#### Culross
#### Perth
#### Dundee
#### Arbroath
#### Aberdeen
#### Around Aberdeen
#### Moray
### Central & Northern Highlands & Islands
#### Inverness
#### Around Inverness
#### Loch Ness
#### Fort Augustus
#### Aviemore
#### Around Aviemore
#### Kingussie & Newtonmore
#### Royal Deeside
#### Dunkeld & Birnam
#### Pitlochry
#### Blair Castle
#### Lochs Tummel & Rannoch
#### Loch Tay
#### Glen Lyon
#### Glen Coe
#### Kinlochleven
#### Fort William
#### Around Fort William
#### Road to the Isles
#### Train
#### Portmahomack
#### Dornoch
#### Dunrobin Castle
#### Helmsdale
#### Lybster & Around
#### Wick
#### John O'Groats
#### Mey
#### Dunnet Head
#### Thurso & Scrabster
#### Thurso to Durness
#### Durness
#### Durness to Ullapool
#### Ullapool
#### Ullapool to Kyle of Lochalsh
#### Kyleakin (Caol Acain)
#### Broadford (An T-Ath Leathann)
#### Sleat
#### Cuillin Hills
#### Minginish
#### Portree (Port Righ)
#### Dunvegan (Dun Bheagain) & Around
#### Trotternish
#### Isle Of Raasay
#### Lewis (Leodhais)
#### Harris (Na Hearadh)
#### Berneray (Bearnaraigh)
#### North Uist (Uibhist A Tuath)
#### Benbecula (Beinn Na Faoghla)
#### South Uist (Uibhist A Deas)
#### Eriskay (Eiriosgaigh)
#### Barra (Barraigh)
#### Kirkwall
#### Mainland To South Ronaldsay
#### West & North Mainland
#### Stromness
#### Hoy
#### Northern Islands
#### Lerwick
#### Bressay & Noss
#### Central & West Mainland
#### South Mainland
#### North Mainland
#### The North Isles
## Understand
### Understand Great Britain
### Great Britain Today
### History
### The British Table
### Architecture in Britain
### The Arts in Britain
### The British Landscape
### Sporting Britain
## Survive
### Directory AZ
#### Accommodation
#### Customs Regulations
#### Discount Cards
#### Electricity
#### Embassies & Consulates
#### Gay & Lesbian Travellers
#### Health
#### Insurance
#### Internet Access
#### Legal Matters
#### Money
#### Opening Hours
#### Public Holidays
#### Safe Travel
#### Telephone
#### Time
#### Tourist Information
#### Travellers with Disabilities
#### Visas
### Transport
#### Getting There & Away
#### Getting Around
### Behind the Scenes
### Our Writers
# Welcome to Great Britain
_Buckingham Palace, Stonehenge, Manchester United, the Beatles – Britain does icons like nowhere else, and travel here is a fascinating mix of famous names and hidden gems._
### Variety Packed
From the graceful architecture of Canterbury Cathedral to the soaring ramparts of Edinburgh Castle, via the mountains of Wales and the picture-postcard landscape of the Cotswolds, Britain's astounding variety is a major reason to visit. The cities tempt with top-class shops and restaurants, and some of the world's finest museums, while cutting-edge clubs and world-famous theatres provide endless nights to remember. Next day, you're deep in the countryside, high in the hills or enjoying a classic seaside resort. In Britain, there really is something for everyone, whether you're eight or 80, going solo, or travelling with your friends, your kids or your grandma.
### Time Travel
A journey through Britain is a journey through history. But not dull and dusty history – this is history you can immerse yourself in. You can lay hands on the megaliths of a 5000-year-old stone circle, or patrol the battlements of a medieval fortress – just as they were patrolled by chain-mail-clad soldiers many centuries ago. Fast-forward to the future and you're admiring 21st-century architecture in Glasgow or exploring the space-age domes of Cornwall's Eden Project.
### English Spoken Here
While Britain has a complex culture and esoteric traditions, it feels familiar to many visitors – on the surface, at least – thanks to a vast catalogue of British film and TV exports. And for most visitors, Britain's national language – English – is equally familiar, and one more reason why travel here is a breeze. Of course Wales and Scotland have their own languages, but everyone speaks English too – and all visitors (even Brits) get a little confused by local accents in places such as Devon, Snowdonia and Aberdeen.
### Easy Does It
A final thing to remember while you're planning a trip to Britain: getting from place to place is pretty straightforward. Although the locals may grumble (in fact, it's a national pastime), public transport is pretty good and a train ride through the British landscape can be a memorable experience in itself. Whichever way you get around in this compact country, you're never far from the next town, the next pub, the next national park or the next impressive castle on your hit-list of highlights. The choice is endless, but we've hand-picked the best places for you. Use this book as a guide, but don't let it stop you from making your own discoveries.
## Why I Love Britain
By Neil Wilson, Author
In a word: variety. Few countries pack so much into a small space. Landscapes that range from the sand dunes of South Wales to the snowfields of the Cairngorms, from the lush, quilted farmland of Kent to the naked limestone scarps of the Yorkshire Dales. Three nationalities, two dozen different dialects, more than 60 proudly individual cities, 1000 breweries, 5000 castles – all in a country you could drive across in a day. Plus weather that can offer four seasons in a single afternoon (but remember the old Scandinavian proverb – there's no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothes).
Big Ben & Houses of Parliament, LondonDOUG PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
# Great Britain's Top 26
### Stonehenge
Mysterious and compelling, Stonehenge is Britain's most iconic ancient site. People have been drawn to this myth-rich ring of bluestones for the last 5000 years, and we're still not sure why it was built. Most visitors get to gaze at the 50-tonne megaliths from behind the perimeter fence, but with enough planning you can book an early-morning or evening tour and walk around the inner ring. In the slanting sunlight, away from the crowds, it's an ethereal place – an experience that certainly stays with you.
EURASIA PRESS / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a city of many moods – famous for its festivals and especially lively in the summer. It's also worth visiting in the low season for sights such as the castle silhouetted against a blue spring sky with a yellow haze of daffodils misting the slopes below the esplanade. Or on a chill December morning with the fog snagging the spires of the Old Town, the ancient streets and alleyways more mysterious than ever, rain on the cobblestones and a warm glow beckoning from the window of a pub.
Edinburgh CastleMEDIOIMAGES/PHOTODISC / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Bath
Britain boasts many great cities, but Bath stands out as the belle of the ball. Thanks to the natural hot water that bubbles to the surface, the Romans built a health resort here. The waters were rediscovered in the 18th century, and Bath became the place to see and be seen by British high society. Today, the stunning Georgian architecture of grand town houses and sweeping crescents (not to mention Roman remains, a beautiful cathedral and a cutting-edge 21st-century spa) means Bath demands your undivided attention.
Roman BathsPETER PHIPP / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Isle of Skye
Of all Scotland's many islands, Skye is one of the most famous and best loved by visitors, thanks to a mix of history (the island's link to Bonnie Prince Charlie is forever remembered by 'The Skye Boat Song'), accessibility (the ferry from the mainland has been replaced by a bridge) and sheer beauty. With jagged mountains, velvet moors and towering sea cliffs, Skye's scenery never fails to impress. And for those days when the mist comes in, there are plenty of castles and local museums to explore, and cosy pubs to enjoy.
PortreeBOISVIEUX CHRISTOPHE / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### The Cotswolds
The most wonderful thing about travel in the Cotswold Hills is that no matter where you go or how lost you get, you'll still end up in an impossibly picturesque village complete with rose-clad cottages, an ancient church of honey-coloured stone, a pub with sloping floors and fine ales, and a view of the lush green hills. It's easy to leave the crowds behind and find your very own slice of medieval England – and some of the best boutique hotels in the country.
Arlington Row, BilburyJOSé FUSTE RAGA / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Snowdonia
The rugged northwestern corner of Wales has (Click here) rocky mountain peaks, glacier-hewn valleys, sinuous ridges, sparkling lakes and rivers, and charm-infused villages. The busiest part is around Snowdon itself, where many people hike to the summit, and many more take the jolly rack-and-pinion railway. To the south and west are rarely trod areas perfect for off-the-beaten-track exploration. And just nearby sit the lovely Llŷn Peninsula and Isle of Anglesey, where the sun often shines, even if it's raining on the mountains.
Snowdonia National ParkDAVID LYONS / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Oxford
For centuries, the brilliant minds and august institutions of Oxford University have made Oxford famous across the globe. You'll get a glimpse of this revered world as you stroll hushed college quads and cobbled lanes roamed by cycling students and dusty academics. The beautiful buildings and archaic traditions have changed little over the years, leaving Oxford much as it would have been found by alumni such as JRR Tolkien, Lewis Carroll or Oscar Wilde.
Radcliffe CameraNEALE CLARK / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Football
In some parts of the world it's called 'soccer', but here in Britain it's definitely 'football'. Despite what the fans may say in Italy or Brazil, the English Premier League has some of the world's finest teams. Big names include the globally renowned Arsenal, Liverpool and Chelsea, plus _the_ most famous club on the planet: Manchester United. North of the border, Scotland's best-known teams are the Glasgow duo of Rangers and Celtic – their 'old firm' rivalry is legendary – while in Wales the national sport is most definitely rugby.
Cardiff City FC StadiumALLAN BAXTER / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### The Lake District
William Wordsworth and his Romantic chums were the first to champion the charms of the Lake District, and it's not hard to see what stirred them. With soaring mountains, whaleback fells, razor-edge valleys and – of course – glistening lakes (as well as England's highest peak), this craggy corner of northwest England has some of the country's finest vistas. Come for the comfortable lakeside hotels or the hardy hiking – whatever you choose, inspiration is sure to follow.
Lake WindermereTIM GRAHAM / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Hadrian's Wall
Hadrian's Wall is one of Britain's most revealing and dramatic Roman ruins, its sturdy line of battlements, forts, garrisons, towers and castles disclosing much about the everyday life of the international batallions posted along its length almost 2000 years ago. But this great wall was always about more than mere fortification. Hadrian's edge-of-empire barrier symbolised the boundary of civilised order. To the south was the orderly Roman world of tax-paying, bathhouses and underfloor heating, while to the north was the unruly land of the marauding Celts.
JUSTIN FOULKES / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Castles & Stately Homes
Britain's turbulent history is nowhere more apparent than in the mighty castles that dot the landscape, from romantic clifftop ruins such as Corfe or sturdy fortresses such as Caernarfon, to formidable Stirling and still-inhabited Windsor. And when the aristocracy no longer needed castles, they built vast mansions known as 'stately homes' at the heart of their country estates. Classics of the genre include Blenheim Palace and Chatsworth House in England, Powis Castle in Wales and Scone Palace in Scotland.
Caernarfon CastleSLOW IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Cornwall
At Britain's far southwestern extremity, the former kingdom of Cornwall boasts endless miles of unbroken coastline, with rugged cliffs, sparkling bays, scenic fishing ports and white sandy beaches favoured by everyone from bucket-and-spade families to sun-bronzed surfers. Above the cliffs, the towers of former tin mines now stand like dramatic castles, while inland from the coast is a tranquil landscape of lush farmland and picturesque villages, crowned by the gigantic domes of the Eden Project – a stunning symbol of Cornwall's renaissance.
Port Isaac© IAN LEWIS / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Cambridge
Abounding with exquisite architecture and steeped in tradition, Cambridge is a university town extraordinaire. The tightly packed core of ancient colleges, the picturesque riverside 'Backs' (college gardens) and the surrounding green meadows give Cambridge a more tranquil appeal than its historic rival Oxford. Highlights include the intricate vaulting of King's College Chapel, while no visit is complete without an attempt to steer a punt (flat-bottomed boat) along the river and under the quirky Mathematical Bridge. You'll soon wonder how you could have studied anywhere else.
PHILIP GAME / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Stratford-upon-Avon
The pretty English Midlands town of Stratford-upon-Avon is famed around the world as the birthplace of the nation's best-known dramatist, William Shakespeare. Today, the town's tight knot of Tudor streets form a living map of Shakespeare's life and times, and crowds of fans and would-be thespians come to enjoy a play at the theatre or visit the five historic houses owned by Shakespeare and his relatives, with a respectful detour to the old stone church where the Bard was laid to rest.
Hall's CroftPAWEL TOCZYNSKI / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Canterbury Cathedral
Few other English cathedrals come close to Canterbury, the top temple of the Anglican Church and a place of worship for over 15 centuries. Its intricate tower dominates the Canterbury skyline, its grandeur unsurpassed by later structures. At its heart lies a 12th-century crime scene, the very spot where Archbishop Thomas Becket was put to the sword – an epoch-making event that launched a million pilgrimages and still pulls in the crowds today. A lone candle mourns the gruesome deed, the pink sandstone before it smoothed by 800 years of devout kneeling.
LEEMAGE / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Cardiff
The exuberant capital of Wales, compact Cardiff has recently emerged as one of Britain's leading urban centres. After a mid-20th-century decline, the city has entered the new millennium with vigour and confidence, flexing architectural muscles and revelling in a sense of style. From the historic castle to the ultramodern waterfront, from lively street cafes to infectious nightlife, from Victorian shopping arcades to the gigantic rugby stadium that is the pulsating heart of the city on match days, Cardiff undoubtedly has buzz.
ALLAN BAXTER / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Britain's Pubs
The traditional public house has been the centre of British social life for centuries, and wherever you go there's a range of 'locals' to discover – the ornate Victorian boozers of London, Edinburgh and Leeds; the food-focused gastropubs of Yorkshire, Mid-Wales and Devon; and countless rustic country pubs hunkering under thatched roofs and timber beams. For the true British experience, sup a pint of real ale from one of hundreds of regional breweries or sip on a gin and tonic, and look out for a live music session or a pub quiz night.
West End pub, LondonMAREMAGNUM / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### York
With its Roman remains and Viking heritage, ancient city walls and maze of medieval streets, York is a living showcase for the highlights of English history. For a great introduction, join one of the city's many walking tours through the snickelways (narrow alleys), each the focus of a ghost story or historical character, then admire the intricacies of York Minster, the biggest medieval cathedral in all of Northern Europe, or explore history of another kind at the National Railway Museum, the world's largest collection of historic locomotives.
York MinsterFRANK FELL / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Scotland's Northwest Highlands
In the Highlands of Scotland you're never far from a breathtaking view (Click here), but the far northwest is awe-inspiring, even by these high standards, with the rugged mountainscapes of Assynt, the desolate beauty of Torridon, the piercing incisions of sea lochs and the remote cliffs of Cape Wrath. Add to this the chance to go to sea for Britain's finest whale-watching, polished off with some warm Highland hospitality – romantic hotels, gourmet restaurants and classic pubs – and you've got an unforgettable corner of the country.
Glen TorridonVISITBRITAIN/BRITAIN ON VIEW / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Pembrokeshire
Perched at the tip of wild and wonderful West Wales, the county of Pembrokeshire boasts one of Britain's most beautiful and dramatic stretches of coast, with sheer cliffs, natural arches, blowholes, sea stacks, and a wonderful hinterland of tranquil villages and secret waterways. It's a landscape of Norman castles, Iron Age hill forts, holy wells and Celtic saints – including the nation's patron, St David – and the remnants of prehistoric inhabitants that left behind intriguing stone circles.
TenbyDAVID CLAPP / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Liverpool
For many visitors, Liverpool will forever be associated with the Beatles, but a visit here proves the city has much more to offer. After a major redevelopment, the waterfront is once again the heart of Liverpool, with Albert Dock declared a World Heritage Site of iconic and protected buildings, a batch of top museums ensuring all sides of the city's history are not forgotten, and the Tate Liverpool gallery and Beatles Story museum, celebrating popular culture and those (still) most famous musical sons.
Pier HeadPICTURES FROM PHIL ORR PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### British Food
Britain offers a groaning table full of traditional eating experiences. Tuck into national favourites such as fish and chips, Cornish pasties or toad in the hole, followed of course by rhubarb and custard or spotted dick, or indulge yourself in a quintessentially English afternoon tea. And don't miss the chance to sample regional specialities such as jellied eels (London), Scottish haggis, Cumberland sausage, Stilton cheese, Northumberland kippers, Lancashire hotpot, Melton Mowbray pork pies, Welsh lamb, Yorkshire pudding... the list goes on.
RACHEL DEWIS / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Glen Coe
Scotland's most famous glen (Click here) combines those two essential qualities of the Highland landscape: dramatic scenery and deep history. The peacefulness and beauty of this valley today belie the fact that it was the scene of a ruthless 17th-century massacre, when the local MacDonalds were murdered by soldiers of the Campbell clan. Some of the glen's finest walks – to the Lost Valley, for example – follow the routes used by the clanspeople trying to flee their attackers, and where many perished in the snow.
HANS-PETER MERTEN / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### London's Museums
Institutions bright and beautiful, great and small, wise and wonderful – London's got them all. The range of museums is vast: from generalist exhibitions (British Museum, V&A) to specific themes (Imperial War Museum, London Transport Museum, Natural History Museum). From intriguing private collections (Sir John Soane's Museum, Wallace Collection) to those celebrating people associated with the city (Handel, Dickens, Freud). Seriously, you could spend weeks without even scratching the surface. And most of it's free!
Great Court, British MuseumPAWEL LIBERA / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Whisky
After tea, Britain's best-known drink is whisky. And while this amber spirit is also made in England and Wales, it is always most associated with Scotland. With more than 2000 whisky brands available, there are distilleries dotted across |
Scotland, many open to visitors, with Speyside one of the main concentrations and a favourite spot for connoisseurs. Before enjoying your tipple, heed these warnings: never spell whisky with an 'e' (that's the Irish variety); and when ordering at the bar, never ask for 'Scotch'. What else would you drink in Scotland?
KARL BLACKWELL / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Top Experiences
### Golf
It may be a 'good walk spoilt', but golf is one of the most popular sports in Britain, for participants of all levels and (especially when it comes to major tournaments) for thousands of spectators too. With courses across the three countries, including some in the most scenic locations, visitors to Britain with a penchant for the little white ball will surely want to try their skill. A highlight for aficionados is a round on the Old Course at St Andrews, the venerable home of golf.
Royal & Ancient Golf Club, St AndrewsANDREA PISTOLESI / GETTY IMAGES ©
# Need to Know
### Currency
Pound; also called 'pound sterling' (£)
### Language
English; also Scottish Gaelic and Welsh
### Money
Change bureaux and ATMs widely available, especially in cities and major towns.
### Visas
Not required for most citizens of Europe, Australia, New Zealand, USA and Canada.
### Mobile Phones
The UK uses the GSM 900/1800 network, which covers the rest of Europe, Australia and New Zealand, but isn't compatible with the North American GSM 1900. Most modern mobiles can function on both networks – but check before you leave home just in case.
Though roaming charges within the EU are due to be entirely eliminated in December 2015, other international roaming charges can be prohibitively high, and you'll probably find it cheaper to get a UK number. This is easily done by buying a SIM card (around £10 including calling credit) and sticking it in your phone. Your phone may be locked to your home network, however, so you'll have to either get it unlocked, or buy a pay-as-you-go phone along with your SIM card (around £50).
Pay-as-you-go phones can be recharged by buying vouchers from shops.
### Driving
Traffic drives on the left; steering wheels are on the right side of the car. Most rental cars have manual gears (stick shift).
### When to Go
#### High Season _(Jun–Aug)_
AWeather at its best.
AAccommodation rates at their peak – especially for August school holidays.
ARoads are busy, especially in seaside areas, national parks and popular cities such as Oxford, Bath, Edinburgh and York.
#### Shoulder _(Mar–May & Sep & Oct)_
ACrowds reduce. Prices drop.
AWeather often good; March to May is a mix of sunny spells and sudden showers; September to October can feature balmy Indian summers. For outdoor activities in much of Scotland, the very best times to go are the months of May and September.
#### Low Season _(Nov–Feb)_
AWet and cold. Snow falls in mountain areas, especially up north.
AOpening hours reduced October to Easter; some places shut for winter. Big-city sights (particularly London's) operate all year.
### Useful Websites
**BBC** (www.bbc.co.uk) News and entertainment from the national broadcaster.
**Visit Britain** (www.visitbritain.com) Comprehensive official tourism website.
**Lonely Planet** (www.lonelyplanet.com/great-britain) Destination info, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.
**Traveline** (www.traveline.org.uk) Great portal site for public transport in all parts of Britain.
**British Arts Festivals** (www.artsfestivals.co.uk) Listing hundreds of festivals – art, literature, dance, folk and more.
### Important Numbers
Area codes vary in length (eg 020 for London, 01225 for Bath). Omit the code if you're inside that area. Drop the initial 0 if you're calling from abroad.
### Exchange Rates
For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.
### Daily Costs
##### Budget less than £55
ADorm beds: £15–25
ACheap meals in cafes and pubs: £7–11
ALong-distance coach: £15–40 (200 miles)
##### Midrange £55–120
AMidrange hotel or B&B: £60–130 (London £100–200) per double room
AMain course in midrange restaurant: £10–20
ALong-distance train: £20–80 (200 miles)
##### Top end more than £120
AFour-star hotel room: from £130 (London from £200)
AThree-course meal in a good restaurant: around £40 per person
ACar rental: from £35 per day
### Arriving in Britain
**Heathrow airport** Train to central London (London Paddington station) every 15 minutes (from £18).
**Gatwick airport** Train to central London (London Victoria station) every 15 minutes (from £16).
**Eurostar trains from Paris or Brussels** Arrive at London St Pancras International station in central London.
**Buses from Europe** Arrive at London Victoria Coach Station in central London.
**Taxis from airports** Trips to central London from Heathrow £40 to £50; from Gatwick £70 to £90 (more at peak hours).
### Great Britain on a Shoestring
If you're on a tight budget, there's no getting away from it – Britain isn't cheap. Public transport, admission fees, restaurants and hotel rooms all tend to be expensive compared with their equivalents in many other European countries. But with some careful planning, a trip here doesn't have to break the bank. You can save money by staying in B&Bs instead of hotels, or hostels instead of B&Bs. Motels along motorways and outside large towns are soulless, but who cares? Most of the time you'll be asleep. You can also save by prebooking long-distance coach or train travel – and by avoiding times when everyone else is on the move (like Friday afternoon). Many attractions are free (or offer discounts on quiet days, such as Monday). And don't forget that you won't have to stump up a penny to enjoy Britain's best assets: the wonderful countryside and coastline.
# First Time Great Britain
## Checklist
ACheck the validity of your passport
ACheck any visa or entry requirements
AMake any necessary bookings (sights, accommodation, travel)
ACheck airline baggage restrictions
APut all restricted items (eg hair gel, pocket knife) in hold baggage
AInform your credit/debit card company of your trip
AOrganise travel insurance
ACheck mobile (cell) phone compatibility
ACheck rental car requirements
## What to Pack
APassport
ACredit card
ADriving licence
AElectrical plug adaptor (UK-specific)
AWaterproof jacket
AUmbrella
AComfortable shoes
ATaste for warm beer
### Top Tips for Your Trip
AAt major London airports, tickets for express trains into central London are usually available in the baggage arrivals hall; this saves queuing or dealing with machines on the station platform.
AThe best way to get local currency is usually from an ATM, but this term is rarely used in England; the colloquial term 'cash machine' is more common.
AIf staying more than a few days in London, get an OysterCard, the travel card the locals use.
APickpockets and hustlers lurk in the more crowded tourist areas, especially in London. No need to be paranoid, but do be on your guard.
ABritain's electrical plugs are unlike those in the rest of Europe, so bring (or buy) a UK-specific plug adaptor.
Underground station, LondonMATTHEW E. MADDOCK / GETTY IMAGES ©
### What to Wear
A rain jacket is essential, as is a small backpack to carry it in when the sun comes out. In summer you'll need sunscreen and an umbrella; you're bound to use both – possibly on the same day.
For sightseeing, comfortable shoes can make or break a trip. If you plan to enjoy Britain's great outdoors, suitable hiking gear is required in higher/wilder areas, but not for casual strolls in the countryside.
Some bars and restaurants have dress codes banning jeans, T-shirts and trainers (sneakers or runners).
### Sleeping
Booking your accommodation in advance is recommended, especially in summer, at weekends, and on islands (where options are often limited). Book at least two months ahead for July and August.
A **B &Bs** These small, family-run houses generally provide good value. More luxurious versions are more like a boutique hotel.
A **Hotels** British hotels range from half-a-dozen rooms above the pub to restored country houses and castles, with a commensurate range in rates.
A **Hostels** There's a good choice of both institutional and independent hostels, many housed in rustic and/or historic buildings.
### Money
ATMs (usually called 'cash machines') are common in cities and towns, but watch out for tampering; a common ruse is to attach a card-reader to the slot. Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted in Britain, except at some smaller B&Bs which take cash or cheque only. Other credit cards, including Amex, are not so widely accepted. Cities and larger towns have banks and exchange bureaux for changing money into pounds, but some bureaux offer poor rates. You can change money at some post offices, which is very handy in country areas; exchange rates are fair.
### Bargaining
A bit of mild haggling is acceptable at flea markets and antique shops, but everywhere else you're expected to pay the advertised price.
### Tipping
A **Restaurants** Around 10% in restaurants and teashops with table service. Nearer 15% at smarter restaurants. Tips may be added to your bill as a 'service charge'. Paying a tip or a service charge is not obligatory.
A **Pubs & Bars** If you order drinks (or food) and pay at the bar, tips are not expected. If you order at the table, your meal is brought to you, and you pay afterwards, then 10% is usual.
A **Taxis** Around 10%, or rounded up to the nearest pound, especially in London.
### Etiquette
A **Manners** The British have a reputation for being polite, and good manners are considered important in most situations. When asking directions, 'Excuse me, can you tell me the way to...' is a better tactic than 'Hey, where's...'
A **Queues** In Britain, queueing ('standing in line' to Americans), whether to board a bus, buy tickets or enter the gates of an attraction, is sacrosanct. Any attempt to 'jump the queue' will result in an outburst of tutting and hard stares.
A **Escalators** If you take an escalator or a moving walkway (especially at tube stations in London), be sure to stand on the right, so folks in a hurry can pass on the left.
### Eating
It's wise to book ahead for midrange restaurants, especially at weekends. Top-end restaurants should be booked at least a couple of weeks in advance. See Eat & Drink Like a Local for more information.
A **Restaurants** Britain's restaurants range from cheap-and-cheerful to Michelin-starred, and cover every cuisine you can imagine.
A **Cafes** Open during daytime (rarely after 6pm), cafes are good for a casual breakfast or lunch, or simply a cup of coffee.
A **Pubs** Most of Britain's pubs serve reasonably priced meals, and many can compete with restaurants on quality.
# What's New
#### Stonehenge
A £27 million revamp of Britain's most famous prehistoric site has seen the area around the stones returned to grassland, and the opening of an impressive new visitor centre.
#### Shangri-La at the Shard
The first opening in the UK for the luxury Asian hotel chain, this is Europe's first elevated hotel, occupying levels 34 to 52 of London's Shard skyscraper.
#### The Making of Harry Potter
Prospective Hogwarts pupils can waggle thier wands and practise their spells during this spectacular new tour at Warner Bros Studios, just outside London.
#### Eden Project
Cornwall's iconic eco-centre has an added attraction in the form of a new treetop walkway through the rainforest biome.
#### King Richard III: Dynasty, Death & Discovery
The amazing story of the discovery of the skeletal remains of King Richard III beneath a Leicester car park in 2012 is celebrated in this new, high-tech visitor centre.
#### Bleak House
Snooze in the very bedroom occupied for 12 productive summers by one Charles Dickens at this new hotel overlooking Broadstairs' tight curve of beach.
#### Liverpool International Music Festival
Liverpool's old Mathew St Festival has been expanded into a showcase of local and international talent spread over two weeks in late August.
#### Black Sail Youth Hostel
One of England's most remote youth hostels, perched high in the Lake District fells above Ennerdale, now sports double glazing and solar-panel-powered lighting following a major upgrade.
#### Northumberland National Park
England's least-populous national park was awarded dark-sky status by the International Dark Skies Association in late 2013 (the largest such designation in Europe), adding to the stargazing appeal of Kielder Observatory.
#### Penarth Pavilion
One of Wales' most famous seaside landmarks, the art deco Penarth Pavilion, has been renovated, complete with a brand-new art gallery, cinema and cafe.
#### The Hydro
Glasgow's waterfront gained a new 13,000-seat live-performance arena, the Hydro, which hosted the 2014 Commonwealth Games gymnastics and netball events.
#### Bannockburn Heritage Centre
To mark the 700th anniversary of the Battle of Bannockburn in 2014, the National Trust for Scotland unveiled a revamped, high-tech heritage centre on the site of the battlefield.
# If You Like...
## Castles & Stately Homes
Tower of London Landmark of the capital, patrolled by famous beefeaters and protected by mythical ravens.
Blenheim Palace A monumental baroque fantasy and one of Britain's greatest stately homes.
Castle Howard Another stunning baroque edifice, best known as the setting for _Brideshead Revisited_.
Warwick Castle Preserved enough to be impressive, ruined enough to be romantic.
Stirling Castle Classic fortress atop volcanic crag, with stunning views from the battlements.
Beaumaris Castle Wales is the land of castles; imposing Beaumaris, along with nearby Conwy, Caernarfon and Harlech, is a jointly listed World Heritage Site.
Chatsworth House The quintessential stately home, a treasure trove of heirlooms and works of art.
Carreg Cennen The most dramatically positioned fortress in Wales, standing guard over a lonely stretch of Brecon Beacons National Park.
## Royal Britain
Buckingham Palace The Queen's official London residence, best known for its royal-waving balcony and the Changing of the Guard.
Windsor Castle The largest and oldest occupied fortress in the world, a majestic vision of battlements and towers, and the Queen's weekend retreat.
Westminster Abbey Where British monarchs are crowned and married – most recently William and Kate.
Royal Yacht Britannia The royal family's floating home during foreign travels, now retired and moored near Edinburgh.
Balmoral Castle Built for Queen Victoria in 1855 and still a royal Highland hideaway.
Royal Pavilion Opulent palace built for playboy prince, later King George IV.
Althorp House Ancestral home and burial place of Diana, Princess of Wales.
## Cathedrals & Ruined Abbeys
St Paul's Cathedral A symbol of the city for centuries, and still an essential part of the London skyline.
York Minster One of the largest medieval cathedrals in all of Europe, especially renowned for its windows.
Fountains Abbey Extensive ruins set in more recently landscaped water gardens – one of the most beautiful sites in Britain.
Canterbury Cathedral The mother ship of the Anglican Church, still attracting pilgrims and visitors in their thousands.
Melrose Abbey The finest of all the great Border abbeys; the heart of Robert the Bruce is buried here.
Whitby Abbey Stunning clifftop ruin with an eerie atmosphere that inspired the author of _Dracula_.
St Davids Cathedral An ancient place of worship in Britain's smallest city.
Glastonbury Abbey The legendary burial place of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere.
Glasgow Cathedral A shining example of Gothic architecture, and the only mainland Scottish cathedral to have survived the Reformation.
Tintern Abbey Riverside ruins that inspired generations of poets and artists.
## Village Idylls
Lavenham A wonderful collection of exquisitely preserved medieval buildings virtually untouched since the 15th century.
Lacock Well-preserved medieval village, essentially free of modern development and – unsurprisingly – a frequent set for movies and TV period dramas.
Goathland One of Yorkshire's most attractive villages, complete with village green and traditional steam railway station.
Mousehole Southwest England overflows with picturesque pint-sized ports, but this is one of the best.
Beddgelert A conservation village of rough grey stone buildings in the heart of Snowdonia National Park.
**Cromarty** At the northeastern tip of the Black Isle, with a fine collection of 18th-century sandstone houses.
Mousehall, CornwallGRAHAM CUSTANCE PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©
## Great Outdoors
Lake District A feast of mountains, valleys, views and – of course – lakes; the landscape that inspired William Wordsworth and entices hikers today.
Northumberland National Park The dramatically empty landscape of England's far north is remote and off the beaten track.
Snowdonia The best-known slice of nature in Wales, with the grand but surprisingly accessible peak of Snowdon at its heart.
Yorkshire Dales A compact collection of moors, hills, valleys, rivers, cliffs and waterfalls, perfect for easy strolls or hardy treks.
Ben Nevis Every year thousands of people aim for the summit of Scotland's most famous (and Britain's highest) mountain.
Swaledale, Yorkshire Dales National ParkEURASIA / GETTY IMAGES ©
## Industrial Heritage
Ironbridge The place where it all started, the crucible of the Industrial Revolution, where 10 museums for the price of one give fascinating insights.
Blaenavon A World Heritage Site of well-preserved ironworks and the fascinating Big Pit coal mine.
New Lanark Once the largest cotton-spinning complex in Britain and a testament to enlightened capitalism.
National Railway Museum A cathedral to Britain's great days of steam; for railway fans of all ages it's the perfect place to go loco.
## Roman Remains
Roman Baths The city of Bath takes its name from these famous Roman remains – a complex of bathhouses around natural thermal waters, with additions from the 18th century, when restorative waters again became fashionable.
Hadrian's Wall Snaking coast-to-coast across lonely hills, this 2000-year-old fortified line once marked the northern limit of imperial Roman jurisdiction.
Caerleon One of three legionary forts in Britain, with impressive remains of barracks, baths and an amphitheatre.
Corinium Museum The sleepy Cotswold town of Cirencester was once Corinium, the second-largest Roman city in Britain; this excellent museum recalls those days, including beautiful mosaics.
### IF YOU LIKE... KOOKY COLLECTIONS
Portmeirion is a private village built in a mix of styles from Moorish to Ancient Greek; it's most famous as the set for cult TV show _The Prisoner_.
## Shopping
**Portobello Road, London** Britain's biggest city has shopping galore, with Portobello Rd one of the best-known street markets, surrounded by quirky boutiques and gift stores.
Victoria Quarter, Leeds Lovely arcades of wrought ironwork and stained glass, home to several top fashion boutiques.
North Laine, Brighton Narrow streets lined with shops selling books, antiques, collectables, vintage clothing and more.
Cardiff Arcades Half-a-dozen ornate arcades branch off the city-centre main streets, all with speciality shops and cafes.
Isle of Skye It seems as if every second cottage on Skye is home to a workshop or an artist's studio, making the island a great place to find quality handmade arts and crafts.
Hay-on-Wye The self-proclaimed secondhand-book capital of the world boasts over 30 bookshops and millions of volumes, attracting browsers, collectors and academics from around the world.
## Art Galleries
Tate Britain One of the best-known galleries in London, full to the brim with the finest local works.
Tate Modern London's other Tate focuses on modern art in all its wonderful permutations.
BALTIC Newcastle's very own 'Tate of the North' with work by some of contemporary art's biggest show-stoppers.
National Museum Cardiff An excellent collection of Welsh artists, plus works by Monet, Renoir, Matisse, Van Gogh, Francis Bacon and David Hockney.
Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum A national landmark in Glasgow – great collection, and a cracking spot to learn about Scottish art.
Yorkshire Sculpture Park England's biggest outdoor sculpture collection, dominated by the works of Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth.
Barber Institute of Fine Art With works by Rubens, Turner and Picasso, this Birmingham gallery is no lightweight.
## Arts & Music Festivals
Edinburgh International Festival The world's biggest festival of art and culture. 'Nuff said.
Glastonbury (www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk) Britain's biggest and best-loved music festival.
Hay Festival A world-class celebration of all things literary at Britain's bookshop capital.
Notting Hill Carnival London's Caribbean community shows the city how to party.
Pride Gay and lesbian street parade through London culminating in a concert in Trafalgar Sq.
Grassington Festival A village in the scenic Yorkshire Dales hosts this amazing two-week cultural extravaganza.
Latitude Festival An eclectic mix of music, literature, dance, drama and comedy, in a stunning location and of manageable size.
## Coastal Attractions
Scarborough The original British beach resort, where 'sea-bathing' first began, way back in the 17th century.
Pembrokeshire Towering cliffs, rock arches, clean waters and perfect sandy beaches at the tip of West Wales.
Southwold Genteel old-style seaside town with lovely beach, charming pier and famous rows of colourful beach huts.
Tongue Sea lochs penetrate the rocky coast in this wild stretch of Scotland's north.
Holkham Bay A pristine expanse of sand with giant skies stretching overhead.
Llandudno Beachside Punch-and-Judy shows, a step-back-in-time pier and a classic esplanade.
Gower Peninsula Family-friendly beaches and surfer hang-outs, backed by sand dunes and tranquil farmland.
Beachy Head & Seven Sisters Where the South Downs plunge into the sea, these mammoth chalk cliffs provide a dramatic finale.
Beach huts, SouthwoldROD EDWARDS / GETTY IMAGES ©
### IF YOU LIKE... CLIFFTOP DRAMA
The Minack is a unique theatre, carved into vertiginous cliffs overlooking the Atlantic in Cornwall. The classic play to catch is _The Tempest,_ but any performance is spellbinding.
# Month by Month
Top Events
**Edinburgh International Festival and Fringe** , August
**Glyndebourne** , late May–August
**Trooping the Colour** , mid-June
**Glastonbury Festival** , late June
**Abergavenny Food Festival** , September
## January
January is mid-winter in Britain. Festivals and events to brighten the mood are thin on the ground, but luckily some include fire – lots of it.
### zLondon Parade
A ray of light in the gloom, the New Year's Day Parade in London (to use its official title; www.londonparade.co.uk) is one of the biggest events of its kind in the world, featuring marching bands, street performers, classic cars, floats and displays winding their way through the streets, watched by over half a million people.
### zUp Helly Aa
Half of Shetland dresses up with horned helmets and battleaxes in this spectacular re-enactment of a Viking fire festival, with a torchlit procession leading the burning of a full-size Viking longship.
### 3Celtic Connections
Glasgow plays host to a celebration of Celtic music, dance and culture (www.celticconnections.com), with participants from all over the globe.
## February
Britain can be scenic under snow and sunshine, or more likely grey and gloomy under dark skies. Hang in there...
### zJorvik Viking Festival
The ancient Viking capital of York becomes home once again to invaders and horned helmets galore, with the intriguing addition of longship races.
### zFort William Mountain Festival
Britain's capital of the outdoors celebrates the peak of the winter season with ski workshops, mountaineering films and talks by famous climbers (www.mountainfestival.co.uk).
## March
Spring finally arrives. There's a hint of better weather, and some classic sporting fixtures grace the calendar. Many locals stay hunkered down at home, though, so hotels offer special rates.
### 3Six Nations Rugby Championship
Highlight of the rugby calendar (www.rbs6nations.com), with the home nations playing at London's Twickenham, Edinburgh's Murrayfield and Cardiff's Millennium Stadiums.
### 3University Boat Race
Annual race down the River Thames in London between the rowing teams from Cambridge and Oxford Universities, an institution since 1856 that still enthrals the country.
## April
The weather slowly improves, with warmer and drier days bringing out spring blossoms. Attractions that close for the low season open around the middle of the month or at Easter.
### 3Grand National
Half the country has a flutter on the highlight of the three-day horse race meeting at Aintree on the first Saturday of the month (www.aintree.co.uk) – a steeplechase with a testing course and notoriously high jumps.
### 2London Marathon
Super-fit athletes cover 26.22 miles in just over two hours, while others dress up in daft costumes and take considerably longer.
### zBeltane
Thousands of revellers climb Edinburgh's Calton Hill for this modern revival of a pagan fire festival (www.beltane.org) marking the end of winter.
### zSpirit of Speyside
Based in Dufftown, a Scottish festival of whisky, food and music, with five days of art, cooking, distillery tours and outdoor activities.
## May
The weather is usually good, with more events to enjoy. There are two public holidays this month (first and last Mondays) so traffic is very busy over the corresponding long weekends.
### 3FA Cup Final
Grand finale of the football (soccer) season for over a century. Teams from across England battle it out over the winter months, culminating in this heady spectacle at Wembley Stadium – the home of English football.
### 1Chelsea Flower Show
The Royal Horticultural Society flower show at Chelsea is the highlight of the gardener's year.
### zHay Festival
The ever-expanding 'Woodstock of the mind' brings an intellectual influx to book-town Hay-on-Wye.
### zGlyndebourne
Famous festival (www.glyndebourne.com) of world-class opera in the pastoral surroundings of East Sussex, running until the end of summer.
## June
Now it's almost summer. You can tell because this month sees the music-festival season kick off properly, while sporting events, from rowing to racing, fill the calendar.
### 3Derby Week
Horse-racing, people-watching and clothes-spotting are on the agenda at this week-long meeting in Epsom, Surrey (www.epsomderby.co.uk).
### 3Cotswold Olimpicks
Welly-wanging, pole-climbing and shin-kicking are the key disciplines at this traditional Gloucestershire sports day, held every year since 1612.
### zTrooping the Colour
Military bands and bear-skinned grenadiers march down London's Whitehall in this martial pageant to mark the monarch's birthday.
### 3Royal Ascot
It's hard to tell which matters more, the fashion or the fillies, at this highlight of the horse-racing year in Berkshire.
### 3Wimbledon Tennis
The world's best-known tennis tournament, attracting all the big names, while crowds cheer and eat tons of strawberries and cream.
### Glastonbury
One of Britain's favourite pop and rock gatherings (www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk) is invariably muddy, and still a rite of passage for every self-respecting British music fan.
### 3Royal Regatta
Boats of every description take to the water for Henley's upper-crust river jamboree.
### zPride
Highlight of the gay and lesbian calendar, this technicolour street parade heads through London's West End.
### zGlasgow's West End Festival
Scotland's second city hosts a major celebration of music and arts.
## July
Proper summer. Festivals every week. School summer breaks begin, so there's a holiday tingle in the air, dulled only by busy roads on Fridays, because everyone's going somewhere for the weekend.
### 1Great Yorkshire Show
Harrogate plays host to one of Britain's largest county shows. This is the place for Yorkshire grit, Yorkshire tykes, Yorkshire puddings, Yorkshire beef...
### zT in the Park
World-class acts since 1994 ensure this major music festival (www.tinthepark.com) is Scotland's answer to Glastonbury.
### zLatitude
Relaxed festival in the seaside town of Southwold, with theatre, cabaret, art and literature, plus top names from the alternative music scene.
### 3International Musical Eisteddfod
Festival of international folk music at Llangollen, with eclectic fringe and big-name evening concerts.
### 1Royal Welsh Show
Prize bullocks and local produce at this national farm and livestock event (www.rwas.co.uk; Llanelwedd) in Builth Wells.
### 3Cowes Week
Britain's biggest yachting spectacular on the choppy seas around the Isle of Wight.
### zWomad
Roots and world music take centre stage at this festival (www.womad.org) in a country park in the southern Cotswolds.
### zPort Eliot Festival
Beginning life as a literary festival, now branched out into live music, theatre and outdoor art.
## August
Schools and colleges are closed, parliament is in recess, the sun is shining (hopefully), most people go away for a week or two, and the nation is in holiday mood.
### zEdinburgh Festivals
Edinburgh's most famous August happenings are the International Festival and Fringe, but this month the city also has an event for anything you care to name – books, art, theatre, music, comedy, marching bands... (www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk)
### zNotting Hill Carnival
London's famous multicultural Caribbean-style street carnival in the district of Notting Hill. Steel drums, dancers, outrageous costumes.
### 3National Eisteddfod of Wales
The largest celebration of native Welsh culture, steeped in history, pageantry and pomp; held at various venues around the country.
### zBrecon Jazz Festival
Smoky sounds at one of Europe's leading jazz festivals, in the charming Mid-Wales town of Brecon.
### World Bog Snorkelling Championships
Only in Britain – competitors, many in fancy dress, don snorkel and flippers for a swimming race along a muddy ditch in the middle of a peat bog.
## September
The first week of September is still holiday time, but then schools reopen, traffic returns to normal, and the summer party's over for another year. Ironically, the weather's often better than in August, now everyone's back at work.
### 2Great North Run
Tyneside plays host to one of the biggest half marathons in the world (www.greatrun.org), with the greatest number of runners in any race at this distance.
### 5Abergavenny Food Festival
The mother of all epicurean festivals and the champion of Wales' burgeoning food scene.
### 5Ludlow Food & Drink Festival
Great foodie town and a great foodie festival.
### 3Braemar Gathering
The biggest and most famous Highland Games ( %01339-755377; www.braemargathering.org; adult/child from £10/2) in the Scottish calendar, traditionally attended by members of the royal family. Highland dancing, caber-tossing and bagpipe-playing.
## October
October means autumn. The leaves on the trees are changing colour, attractions start to shut down for the low season, and accommodation rates drop as hoteliers try to entice a final few guests before winter.
### zDylan Thomas Festival
A celebration of the Welsh laureate's work with readings, events and talks in Swansea.
### 5Falmouth Oyster Festival
The West Country port of Falmouth marks the start of the traditional oyster catching season (www.falmouthoysterfestival.co.uk) with a celebration of local food from the sea and fields of Cornwall.
## November
Winter's here, and November is a dull month. The weather is often cold and damp, summer is a distant memory and Christmas is still too far away.
### zGuy Fawkes Night
Also called Bonfire Night (www.bonfirenight.net); on 5 November fireworks fill Britain's skies in commemoration of a failed attempt to blow up parliament, way back in 1605.
### 1Remembrance Day
Red poppies are worn and wreaths are laid in towns and cities around the country on 11 November in commemoration of fallen military personnel (www.poppy.org.uk).
## December
Schools break up earlier, but shops and businesses keep going until Christmas Eve; the last weekend before Christmas Day is busy on the roads as people visit friends and family, or head for the airport.
### zStonehaven Fireball Festival
The Scottish fishing town of Stonehaven celebrates Hogmanay with a spectacular procession of fireball-swinging locals (www.stonehavenfireballs.co.uk).
### zNew Year Celebrations
The last night of December sees fireworks and street parties in town squares across the country. London's Trafalgar Sq is where the city's largest crowds gather to herald the New Year.
# Itineraries
## Best of Britain
### 2 Weeks
Start with a full day in Britain's greatest city, **London** , simply walking the streets to admire the world-famous sights: Buckingham Palace, Tower Bridge, Trafalgar Sq and more. Then head southwest to the grand cathedral cities of **Winchester** and **Salisbury** , across to the iconic menhirs of Stonehenge and its less well-known counterpart Avebury Stone Circle, then onwards to the beautiful historic city of **Bath**.
Loop over to **Chepstow** for its impressive castle, and then continue to **Cardiff** , the Welsh capital. Retrace slightly, then |
cruise across the classic English countryside of the **Cotswolds** to reach the university city of **Oxford**. Not far away is **Stratford-upon-Avon** , for everything Shakespeare.
Strike out north to Scotland's capital, **Edinburgh** , for another great castle, before recrossing the border to **York** for its glorious cathedral and historic city walls. Keep going south to reach **Cambridge** , another landmark university city. Then enjoy the last few days back in **London** , immersed in galleries, museums, luxury shops, street markets, West End shows, East End cafes – or whatever takes your fancy.
### Itineraries
## The Full Monty
### 1 Month
This is a trip for those with time, or an urge to see everything. So brace yourself, and let's be off.
After a day or two in **London** , head southeast to **Canterbury** , then along the coast to hip and happening **Brighton**. For a change of pace, divert to the **New Forest** , then up to historic **Winchester** and **Salisbury** with their awe-inspiring cathedrals. Next, religion of a different kind: the ancient stone circles at Stonehenge and Avebury.
Go west to **Bath** , with its grand Georgian architecture, Roman remains and famous spas, and then over the border to reach Wales. Stop off at the energetic little city of **Cardiff** , then head north through to the whaleback hills of the **Brecon Beacons** to reach the quirky book-mad town of **Hay-on-Wye**.
Then it's back to England, and east into the Cotswolds, with its rolling hills, quintessential rural scenery and chocolate-box towns like **Chipping Norton**. Not far away is the famous university town of **Oxford** , as well as the ancient town of **Warwick** , with its spectacular castle, and Shakespeare's birthplace **Stratford-upon-Avon**.
Continue north to **Chester** , for its famous city walls, diverting into North Wales for the grand castles at Conwy and Caernarfon, and the stunning mountains of **Snowdonia**. If time allows and the weather's good, you can take a train to the top of the highest peak.
Then ferry across the Mersey to **Liverpool** , with its famous musical heritage and revitalised waterfront, or to **Manchester** for a taste of big-city life, followed by a total change of scenery in the tranquil mountains of the **Lake District**. To the north is the sturdy border town of **Carlisle** , and one of Britain's most impressive Roman remains, **Hadrian's Wall**.
Hop across the border to Scotland, via the tranquil Southern Uplands, to reach good-time **Glasgow**. Then trek to **Fort William** (and maybe up Ben Nevis, Britain's highest mountain), from where it's easy to reach the beautiful **Isle of** **Skye**.
Then it's time to head south again, via Stirling Castle to **Edinburgh** , and on through the historic abbey towns of Melrose and Jedburgh.
Back in England, you can marvel at the castle and cathedral of **Durham** and the ancient Viking capital of **York** , before taking in the old university city of **Cambridge** and enjoying the last few days of your trip in **London**.
### Itineraries
### Itineraries
### Britain's Wild Side
### 4 Weeks
This tour takes you through the best of Britain's natural landscape. Start in the **New Forest** , then go west via Dorset's fossil-ridden **Jurassic Coast** to reach granite-topped **Dartmoor**. Stop off at **Land's End** , then traverse the stunning **Cornwall** coast and rich farmland of **Devon** to reach the gorse-clad hills of **Exmoor**.
Cross into Wales to hike the **Brecon Beacons** or stroll the beaches of **Pembrokeshire** , then head north to explore mountainous **Snowdonia** and the nearby **Isle of Anglesey**. Then it's back to England, through the hills and moors of the **Peak District** and **Yorkshire Dales** to reach the peaks and grand scenery of the **Lake District**.
Head north again, across (or along) the Roman remains of **Hadrian's Wall** , and over the border into Scotland. Saunter through the delightful Southern Uplands, then continue via **Loch Lomond** to the mountain wilderness of the Cairngorms.
The top of Britain is crowned by the famous highlands and islands of northwest Scotland, where jewels include peaks like **Ben Nevis** and remote mountain ranges such as **Torridon** , while out to sea the lovely isles of **Skye** and **Mull** bask in the afternoon sun.
### Itineraries
### Urban Odyssey
### 3 Weeks
To dig a little under Britain's skin, take this ride through some of its less well-known and revitalised cities. Kick off in **Bristol** , a city with fierce pride and a rich historic legacy, then cross over to **Cardiff** , once a provincial backwater but now the lively Welsh capital.
Next stop is **Birmingham** , oozing transformation, with a renovated waterside, energised museums and a space-age shopping centre. Onwards to **Leeds** , where rundown factories and warehouses have been turned into loft apartments, ritzy boutiques and stylish department stores.
Shopping not your thing? No problem. Head for **Newcastle-upon-Tyne** and twin-city **Gateshead** ; both have given up on heavy industries in favour of art and architecture – and are famous for to-the-hilt partying.
Still want more? It's got to be **Glasgow** , Scotland's other great city, boasting fabulous galleries and welcoming pubs. Then it's south to **Liverpool** , which has reinvented itself as a cultural hot spot, with a famous musical heritage and very lively current music scene. Finish your tour in **Manchester** , a long-time stage for artistic endeavour, with dramatic new architecture and a rather well-known football club.
### Itineraries
### Highland Fling
### 2 Weeks
This itinerary is a tour of Scotland's finest and most famous sights, and naturally starts in **Edinburgh** , where highlights include the renowned castle, as well as the Royal Mile, the new parliament and the haunts of the Old Town. For a change of pace, hop over to **Glasgow** for a day or two as well. Then head northeast to see Scotland's other great castle at Stirling. Next stop is **Callander** , a good base for exploring the hills and lochs of the **Trossachs** , part of Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, for a first taste of Highland scenery.
Continue north and the landscape becomes ever more impressive, culminating in the grandeur of **Glen Coe**. Keen hill-walkers will pause for a day at **Fort William** to trek to the top of **Ben Nevis** (plus another day to recover!) before taking the 'Road to the Isles' past glorious **Glenfinnan** to the fishing harbour of **Mallaig**.
Take the ferry to the **Isle of Skye** , then head back to the mainland via the Skye Bridge to reach pretty **Plockton** and magnificent **Glen Torridon**. Onwards, via the outpost of **Ullapool** , takes you into the British mainland's furthest reaches, the remote mountain landscape of Scotland's far Northwest, before looping south to finish your tour at **Inverness**.
### Itineraries
### Edge of England
### 2 Weeks
If you like the outdoors, and prefer flocks of birds to crowds of people, try this backwater route along England's eastern fringe. Start in **Colchester** , then head out into the sleepy county of Suffolk, where quaint villages and market towns such as **Sudbury** and **Lavenham** dot the landscape, while along the coast are wildlife reserves, shingly beaches, fishing ports such as **Aldeburgh** , and the delightfully retro seaside resort of **Southwold**.
Things get even quieter in Norfolk, especially around the misty lakes and windmill-lined rivers of the **Broads**. For beach strolls or historic country pubs, head for the coastal villages near **Wells-next-the-Sea**.
Across the border in Lincolnshire lies the eerie, pan-flat landscape of the **Fens** , now a haven for otters and birdlife.
Continue into the heather-clad **North York Moors** where humpbacked hills roll all the way to the coast to drop dramatically into the choppy waters of the North Sea.
Enjoy a blustery stroll on the wild coast of Northumberland near the landmark castles of Bamburgh and Dunstanburgh, then end your tour at the historic island of **Lindisfarne**.
### Itineraries
### Welsh Wander
### 1 Week
The coast and countryside of Wales has long been a favourite with visitors, and this tour includes most of the hot spots. Combine it with the Southwest Meander for a longer jaunt along part of Britain's Celtic fringe.
Start in **Cardiff** , with its fantastical castle, gigantic rugby stadium, revitalised waterfront and stunning Millennium Centre. Head west via the beautiful **Gower Peninsula** to reach the clear waters and sandy beaches of **Pembrokeshire**. Don't miss the ancient cathedral at St Davids – Britain's smallest city. Continue up the coast to **Aberystwyth** , then through 'alternative' **Machynlleth** to reach **Harlech** and its ancient castle. Divert to the tranquil **Isle of Anglesey** and historic Beaumaris Castle, then strike through the mountains of **Snowdonia** to reach **Conwy** (another stunning castle) and the seaside resort of **Llandudno**.
Southwards takes you through **Llangollen** , with its jolly steam trains and vertiginous aqueduct, then along the England–Wales borderlands to book-mad **Hay-on-Wye**. Loop inland to peaceful **Brecon** and foodie **Abergavenny** , then saunter down the **Wye Valley** to finish at the frontier town of **Chepstow –** and yet another amazing castle.
### Itineraries
### Southwest Meander
### 2 Weeks
The southwest of England takes a bit of effort to reach but repays in full with a rich green landscape dotted with hills and moors, surrounded by glistening seas.
Start in **Bristol** , the capital of the Westcountry, then saunter south to reach **Glastonbury** – famous for its annual music festival and the best place to stock up on candles or crystals at any time of year.
West leads to heathery **Exmoor**. South leads to **Dorset** , where highlights include picturesque **Shaftesbury** and the fossil-strewn Jurassic Coast.
Onwards into **Devon** , and there's a choice of coasts, as well as **Dartmoor** , the highest and wildest hills in southern Britain.
Cross into **Cornwall** to explore the space-age biodomes of the Eden Project. Nearby, but in another era entirely, is Tintagel Castle, the legendary birthplace of King Arthur. Depending on your tastes, you can hang-ten in surf-flavoured party-town **Newquay** , or browse the galleries at **St Ives**.
The natural finish to this wild-west tour is **Land's End** , where the British mainland comes to a final full stop. Sink a drink in the First and Last Inn in Sennen, and promise yourself a return trip some day...
## Plan Your Trip
# The Great Outdoors
What's the best way to slow down, meet the locals and get off the beaten track as you travel around Britain? Simple: go for a walk, or get on a bike. Getting involved in the great outdoors is much more rewarding than staring at it through a car window or camera lens.
## Need to Know
### Best Seasons
**Summer (Jun–Aug)** Weather usually warm and dry; long evenings with plenty of daylight, too.
**Late spring (May) and early autumn (Sep)** Fewer crowds; days often mild and sunny. In Scotland, drier weather and fewer midges than high summer.
### Best Maps
**Ordnance Survey** UK's national mapping agency; Explorer series 1:25,000 scale.
**Harvey Maps** Specially designed for walkers; Superwalker series 1:25,000 scale.
### Best Websites
**www.walkhighlands.co.uk** Superb database of walks of all lengths in Scotland.
**www.walkingenglishman.com** Short walks in England and Wales.
**www.nationaltrail.co.uk** Great for specifics on long-distance trails in England and Wales.
**www.scotlandsgreattrails.org.uk** Long-distance trails in Scotland.
## Walking
Walking is the most popular outdoor activity in Britain – for locals and visitors alike. Firstly, because it opens up some beautiful corners of the country, and secondly, because it can be done virtually on a whim. In fact, compared with hiking and trekking in some other parts of the world, it doesn't take much planning at all.
### Getting Started
An established infrastructure for walkers already exists in Britain, so everything is easy for visitors or first-timers. Most villages and country towns in areas where walking is popular have shops selling maps and local guidebooks, while the local tourist office can provide leaflets and other information. In the national parks, suggested routes or guided walks are often available. This all means you can arrive in a place for the first time, pick up some info, and within an hour you'll be walking through some of Britain's finest landscape. No fees. No permits. No worries. It really is almost effortless.
### Britain's Footpath Network
Britain is covered in a vast network of footpaths, many of which are centuries old, dating from the time when walking was the only way to get from farm to village, from village to town, from town to coast, or from valley to valley. Any walk you do today will follow these historic paths. Even Britain's longest walks simply link up many shorter paths. You'll also sometimes walk along 'bridleways' originally used for horse transport, and old unsurfaced roads called 'byways'.
### WEATHER WATCH
While enjoying the outdoors, it's always worth remembering the fickle nature of the British weather. The countryside can appear gentle and welcoming, and often is, but sometimes conditions can turn nasty – especially on the higher ground. At any time of year, if you're walking on the hills or open moors, it's vital to be well equipped. You should carry warm and waterproof clothing (even in summer); a map and compass (that you know how to use); and drink and food, including high-energy stuff such as chocolate. If you're really going off the beaten track, leave details of your route with someone.
### Rights of Way
The absolute pleasure of walking in Britain is mostly thanks to the 'right of way' network – public paths and tracks across private property, especially in England and Wales. In Britain, nearly all land (including in national parks) is privately owned, but if there's a right of way you can follow it through fields, pastures, woods, even farmhouse yards, as long as you keep to the route and do no damage. In some mountain and moorland areas, walkers can move freely beyond the rights of way and explore at will. Known as 'freedom to roam', where permitted it's clearly advertised with markers on gates and signposts. For more information see the Access pages on www.naturalengland.org.uk.
Scotland has a different legal system, where the **Scottish Outdoor Access Code** (www.outdooraccess-scotland.com) allows walkers to cross most private land providing they act responsibly. There are restrictions during lambing time, bird-nesting periods and the grouse- and deer-hunting seasons.
## Britain's Best Walking Areas
Although you can walk just about anywhere in Britain, some areas are better than others. Here's a rundown of favourite places, suitable for short walks of a couple of hours, or longer all-day outings.
### Southern England
The chalky hills of the South Downs stride across the counties of West Sussex and East Sussex, while the New Forest in Hampshire is great for easy strolls and the nearby Isle of Wight has excellent walking options. The highest and wildest area in southern England is Dartmoor, dotted with Bronze Age remains and granite outcrops called 'tors' – looking for all the world like abstract sculptures. Exmoor has heather-covered hills cut by deep valleys and a lovely stretch of coastline, while the entire coast of the southwest peninsula from Dorset to Somerset offers dramatic walking conditions – especially along the beautiful cliff-lined shore of Cornwall.
### Central England
The gem of central England is the Cotswold Hills, classic English countryside with gentle paths through neat fields, mature woodland and pretty villages of honey-coloured stone. The Marches, where England borders Wales, are similarly bucolic with more good walking options. For something higher, aim for the Peak District, divided into two distinct areas: the White Peak, characterised by limestone, farmland and verdant dales, ideal for gentle strolls; and the Dark Peak, with high peaty moorlands, heather and gritstone outcrops, for more serious hikes.
### Northern England
The Lake District is the heart and soul of walking in England, a wonderful area of soaring peaks, endless views, deep valleys and, of course, beautiful lakes. On the other side of the country, the rolling hills of the Yorkshire Dales is another very popular walking area. Further north, keen walkers love the starkly beautiful hills of Northumberland National Park, while the nearby coast is less daunting but just as dramatic – perfect for wild seaside strolls.
### South & Mid-Wales
The Brecon Beacons is a large range of gigantic rolling whaleback hills with broad ridges and table-top summits, while out in the west is Pembrokeshire, a wonderful array of beaches, cliffs, islands, coves and harbours, with a hinterland of tranquil farmland and secret waterways, and a relatively mild climate year-round.
### North Wales
For walkers, North Wales _is_ Snowdonia, where the remains of ancient volcanoes bequeath a striking landscape of jagged peaks, sharp ridges and steep cliffs. There are challenging walks on Snowdon itself – at 1085m, the highest peak in Wales – and many more on the nearby Glyder and Carneddau ranges, or further south around Cader Idris.
### Southern & Central Scotland
This extensive region embraces several areas just perfect for keen walkers, including Ben Lomond, the best-known peak in the area, and the nearby Trossachs hills, lying within the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. Also here is the splendid Isle of Arran, with a great choice of coastal rambles and high-mountain hikes.
### Northern & Western Scotland
For serious walkers, heaven is the northern and western parts of Scotland, where the forces of nature have created a mountainous landscape of utter grandeur, including two of Scotland's most famous place names, Glen Coe and Ben Nevis (Britain's highest mountain at 1344m). Off the west coast lie the dramatic mountains of the Isle of Skye. Keep going north and west, and things just keep getting better: a remote and beautiful area, sparsely populated, with scenic glens and lochs, and some of the largest, wildest and finest mountains in Britain.
### LONG-DISTANCE TRAILS
Some long-distance walking routes – such as the Pennine Way, the West Highland Way and the Pembrokeshire Coast Path – are well known and well maintained, with signposts and route-markers along the way, as well as being highlighted on Ordnance Survey maps. The most high-profile of these are the national trails, usually very clearly marked on the ground and on the map – ideal for beginners or visitors from overseas (although they're easy to follow, it doesn't mean they're necessarily easy underfoot). A downside of these famous routes is that they can be crowded in holiday times, making accommodation harder to find. An upside is the great feeling of camaraderie with other walkers on the trail.
## Cycling & Mountain Biking
A bike is the perfect mode of transport for exploring back-road Britain. Once you escape the busy main highways, a vast network of quiet country lanes winds through fields and peaceful villages, ideal for cycle-touring. You can cruise through gently rolling landscapes, taking it easy and stopping for cream teas, or you can thrash all day through hilly areas, revelling in steep ascents and swooping downhill sections. You can cycle from place to place, camping or staying in B&Bs (many of which are cyclist-friendly), or you can base yourself in one area for a few days and go out on rides in different directions. All you need is a map and a sense of adventure.
Mountain-bikers can go further into the wilds on the tracks and bridleways that criss-cross Britain's hills and high moors, or head for the many dedicated mountain-bike trail centres where specially built single-track winds through the forests. Options at these centres vary from delightful dirt roads ideal for families to gnarly rock gardens and precipitous dropoffs for hardcore riders, all classified from green to black in ski-resort style.
A **www.sustrans.org.uk** Details of Britain's national network of cycling trails.
A **www.forestry.gov.uk/england-cycling** Guide to forest cycling trails in England.
A **www.dmbins.com** Guide to mountain-biking trails in Scotland.
## Horse Riding & Pony Trekking
If you want to explore the hills and moors but walking or cycling is too much of a sweat, seeing the wilder parts of Britain from horseback is highly recommended. In rural areas and national parks like Dartmoor and Northumberland, riding centres cater to all levels of proficiency, with ponies for kids and beginners and horses for the more experienced.
A **British Horse Society** (www.bhs.org.uk) Lists approved riding centres offering day rides or longer holidays on horseback.
## Fishing
After walking, fishing is Britain's most popular outdoor activity. As well as sea angling, there is excellent fishing for brown trout, grayling, pike, perch, carp and other coarse fish all over England, while Scotland offers some of the world's best salmon fishing.
Fishing rights to most inland waters are privately owned and you must obtain a permit to fish in them – these are usually readily available from the local fishing-tackle shop or hotel, which are also great sources of advice and local knowledge. Permits cost from around £5 to £20 per day but salmon fishing on some rivers – notably the Tyne in northeast England, and Scotland's Tweed, Tay and Spey – can be much more expensive (up to £150 a day).
In England and Wales, as well as a permit you will need a rod licence, which can be purchased online (www.postoffice.co.uk/rod-fishing-licence) or from post offices all over the country. This costs £3.75/8/27 for one day/eight days/one year for all freshwater fish except salmon and sea trout, which cost £8/23/72. Rod licences are not required in Scotland.
Fishing in the sea is generally free (except for salmon and sea trout), and neither permit nor rod licence is needed.
A **www.fishpal.com** Information and booking portal for fishing (mostly salmon and trout) all over Britain.
A **fishing.visitwales.com** Guide to fishing in Wales.
## Canoeing, Kayaking & Rafting
Britain's west coast, with its sheltered inlets, indented shoreline and countless islands, is ideal for sea kayaking, while its inland lakes and canals are great for Canadian canoeing. In addition, the turbulent spate rivers of Scotland and Wales offers some of Britain's best whitewater kayaking and rafting.
Equipment rental and instruction are readily available in major centres such as Cornwall, Anglesey, the Lake District, Loch Lomond and the Isle of Skye.
A **www.gocanoeing.org.uk** Lists approved canoeing centres in England.
A **www.canoescotland.org** Canoe trails in Scotland.
A **www.ukrafting.co.uk** Whitewater rafting in Wales.
## Surfing & Windsurfing
Britain may not seem an obvious destination for surfing, but conditions are surprisingly good and the large tidal range often means a completely different set of breaks at low and high tides. If you've come from the other side of the world, you'll be delighted to learn that summer water temperatures in southern England are roughly equivalent to winter temperatures in southern Australia (ie you'll still need a wetsuit). At the main spots, it's easy enough to hire boards and wetsuits.
Top of the list are the Atlantic-facing coasts of Cornwall and Devon (Newquay is surf-central, with all the trappings from Kombi vans to bleached hair), and there are smaller surf scenes elsewhere, notably Pembrokeshire and the Gower in Wales, and Norfolk and Yorkshire in eastern England. Hardier souls can head for northern Scotland and the Outer Hebrides, which have some of the best and most consistent surf in Europe.
A **surfinggb.com** Listings of approved surf schools, courses, competitions and so on.
Windsurfing is hugely popular all around the coast. Top areas include Norfolk, Suffolk, Devon and Cornwall, the Isle of Wight, and the islands of Tiree, Orkney and the Outer Hebrides.
*** ukwindsurfing.com** A good source of info.
## Coasteering
If sometimes a simple clifftop walk doesn't cut the mustard, then coasteering might appeal. It's like mountaineering, but instead of going up a mountain, you go sideways along a coast – a steep and rocky coast – with waves breaking around your feet. And if the rock gets too steep, no problem – you jump in and start swimming. Coasteering centres provide wetsuits, helmets and buoyancy aids; you provide an old pair of training shoes and a sense of adventure. The sport is available all around Britain, but the mix of sheer cliffs, sandy beaches and warm water make Cornwall and Devon prime spots.
A **www.coasteering.org** Info on coasteering in Devon and Cornwall.
## Rock Climbing
Britain has a long history of rock climbing and mountaineering, with many of the classic routes having been pioneered in the 19th century. The main rock-climbing areas include the Scottish Highlands, the Lake District, the Peak District and North Wales, plus the sea cliffs of South Wales, Devon and Cornwall, but there are also hundreds of smaller crags situated all over the country.
Comprehensive climbing guidebooks are published by the **Scottish Mountaineering Club** (www.smc.org.uk), the **Fell & Rock Climbing Club** (www.frcc.co.uk) and the **Climbers Club** (www.climbers-club.co.uk), while **UKClimbing** (www.ukclimbing.com) is full of useful information.
## Sailing & Boating
Scotland's west coast, with its myriad islands, superb scenery and challenging winds and tides, is widely acknowledged to be one of the finest yachting areas in the world, while the canals of England and Wales offer a classic narrow-boating experience.
Beginners can take a **Royal Yachting Association** (www.rya.org) training course in yachting or dinghy sailing at many sailing schools around the coast. Narrow-boaters only need a quick introductory lesson at the start of their trip – for more info see www.canalholidays.com.
## Skiing & Snowboarding
Britain's ski centres are all in the Scottish Highlands:
A **Cairngorm Mountain** (www.cairngormmountain.com) 1097m; has almost 30 runs spread over an extensive area.
A **Glencoe** (www.glencoemountain.com) 1108m; has five tows and two chairlifts.
A **Glenshee** (www.ski-glenshee.co.uk) 920m; situated on the A93 road between Perth and Braemar; offers the largest network of lifts and the widest range of runs in Britain.
A **Lecht** (www.lecht.co.uk) 793m; the smallest and most remote centre, on the A939 between Ballater and Grantown-on-Spey.
A **Nevis Range** (www.nevisrange.co.uk) 1221m; near Fort William; offers the highest ski runs, the grandest setting and some of the best off-piste potential.
The high season is from January to April but it's sometimes possible to ski from as early as November to as late as May. It's easy to turn up at the slopes, hire some kit, buy a day pass and off you go.
Weather and snow reports can be obtained from the following:
A **Ski Scotland** (www.ski-scotland.com)
A **WinterHighland** (www.winterhighland.info)
## Plan Your Trip
# Eat & Drink Like a Local
Britain once had a reputation for bad food, but the nation has enjoyed something of a culinary revolution over the past decade. London is recognised as having one of the best restaurant scenes in the world, while all over the country stylish eateries and gourmet gastropubs are making the most of a newfound passion for quality local produce.
## The Year in Food
### Best in Spring (Mar–May)
Spring brings fresh asparagus, new potatoes (notably Jersey Royals), pink rhubarb and tender lamb.
### Best in Summer (Jun–Aug)
Strawberries, raspberries and other soft fruits are in season along with salad vegetables such as lettuce and radishes, and seafood such as scallops, langoustines, mackerel and cod.
### Best in Autumn (Sep–Nov)
Apples and blackberries (often cooked together in a crumble), game including venison and wood pigeon, and shellfish – oysters, mussels and cockles. Also the main season for food festivals.
### Best in Winter (Dec–Feb)
Sweet chestnuts (roasted on an open fire), and that classic Christmas combination of goose, root vegetables and Brussels sprouts.
## Food Experiences
### Meals of a Lifetime
AWaterside Inn Exquisite French food at Michel Roux' classic restaurant, in a romantic setting on the banks of the Thames.
ADinner by Heston Blumenthal Famous exponent of 'molecular gastronomy' leads you through a tour of Britain's culinary history.
ARestaurant Nathan Outlaw Superb local seafood is the trademark of Cornwall's only Michelin-starred chef.
AThree Chimneys A windswept crofting cottage in a far-flung corner of the Isle of Skye is home to unexpected gastronomic delights.
AHardwick Set in the heart of Mid-Wales gastropub territory, this rustic inn was one of the first on the scene, and still delivers a meal to remember.
ASt John A pioneer of 'nose-to-tail' dining (ie eating every part of the animal), St John offers a memorably 'offal' dining experience.
### Cheap Treats
A **Fish and chips** The nation's favourite takeaway meal, served in hundreds of chip shops all over the country.
A **Bacon sandwich** The breakfast of champions. Debate rages over the choice of sauce – red (tomato ketchup) or brown (spicy pickled fruit sauce).
A **Beans on toast** A comforting childhood classic of tinned baked beans poured over buttered toast, served in many cafes as a breakfast or lunch dish.
A **Cockles** A classic seaside snack that has been enjoyed by generations of British holidaymakers, sprinkled with vinegar and eaten from a cardboard tub with a wooden fork.
A **Scotch egg** This masterpiece of culinary engineering consists of a hardboiled egg wrapped in sausage meat, coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried.
Scotch eggs and pickleANDREW DERNIE / GETTY IMAGES ©
### Dare to Try
A **Haggis** Scotland's national dish is made from the chopped heart, liver and lungs of a sheep, mixed with oatmeal and onion. Widely available in Scottish restaurants.
A **Tripe** Cow's stomach lining, traditionally poached in milk with onions. A wartime staple, but hard to find in restaurants today – though it's making a comeback.
A **Stinking Bishop** Britain's most pungent cheese, made in Gloucestershire and redolent of old socks. Available from Harrods in London, and many specialist cheese shops.
A **Jellied eels** Traditional London side dish that can still be found in the capital's pie and mash shops.
### BRITISH DINERS, INTERNATIONAL TASTES
For most Britons, traditional British food is only one part of a hugely varied diet that takes in everything from Indian and Pakistani curries to Chinese noodles to Italian pasta dishes. Fast food outlets are a favourite lunchtime and postpub destination, with Turkish kebabs, pizza shops and American fried chicken outlets at the top of the popularity stakes.
## Local Specialities
### Scotland
Scotland may be most famous for haggis, but seafood is where it excels. Fresh lobster, langoustine, salmon and scallops are the favourites of restaurant menus, but look out for traditional dishes such as Arbroath smokies (hot-smoked haddock) and Cullen skink (soup made with smoked haddock, onion, butter and milk). Oats have been a mainstay of the Scottish diet for centuries, appearing in the form of porridge and oatcakes, but also as a coating for fried trout or herring, and in the classic Scottish dessert known as cranachan (whipped cream flavoured with whisky and mixed with raspberries and toasted oatmeal).
### Wales
Tender and tasty Welsh lamb is sought after by restaurateurs all over Britain, but it also appears in the rustic local dish known as cawl (pronounced 'cowl') – a one-pot stew of lamb, bacon, cabbage, potato and swede. Better known is laverbread, which is not bread but seaweed, cooked with oatmeal and often served for breakfast with toast and bacon. Sweet-toothed visitors should look out for Welsh cakes (fruity griddle scones) and _bara brith_ (a dense and spicy fruit cake flavoured with tea and marmalade).
### The Midlands
The Leicestershire town of Melton Mowbray is famed for its pork pies, always eaten cold, ideally with pickle. Only pies handmade in the eponymous town can carry the Melton Mowbray moniker – in the same way that only fizzy wine from the Champagne region of France can carry that name.
Bakewell pudding (pudding, mark you, not 'Bakewell tart' as it's sometimes called) features regularly on local dessert menus and is certainly worth sampling. It is named after the Derbyshire town where it originated in 1860, and consists of a pastry base topped with jam egg custard and almond paste.
### North of England
The northeast of England is known for its kippers (smoked herring), traditionally grilled with butter and served for breakfast with toast and marmalade on the side, and for pease pudding (a thick stew of yellow split peas cooked in ham stock). The northwest lays claim to Lancashire hotpot (slow-cooked stew of lamb and onion topped with sliced potatoes), Eccles cakes (rounds of flaky pastry filled with currants), and Cumberland sausage (a spiral shaped pork sausage flavoured with herbs). But the most famous of northern specialities is Yorkshire pudding, a light and puffy batter pudding usually served as a side dish with roast beef, that has now been adopted all over Britain.
### Southwest England
Cows |
reared on the rich pastures of Devon and Cornwall create some of Britain's finest dairy produce, notably the famous clotted cream (a very thick cream made by heating full-cream milk) that forms an essential component of Cornish cream teas. Less refined but equally tasty are Cornish pasties (crimped pastry parcels containing minced beef, onion and potato), once the lunchtime staple of miners and farm workers.
### London & Southeast England
Ask a Londoner about local food specialities, and you're bound to get the answer – pie and mash, and jellied eels. The staple menu of working-class Londoners since the 19th century, the former consists of a small pie filled with minced beef served with mashed potato and 'liquor' – a parsley-rich gravy made from the stock in which eels have been cooked. The eels are cooled and set in the jellied stock, and served as a side dish with malt vinegar – try them out at M Manze or Poppies.
Oysters today have an expensive reputation, but in the 19th century they were a cheap and plentiful foodstuff, eaten by all. Whitstable oysters, from Kent – the native British species, unlike the more common, farmed Pacific oysters – have been harvested since Roman times, and still grace the tables of London restaurants and oyster bars.
### SIX CLASSIC BRITISH CHEESES
A **Cheddar** Sharp and savoury, Britain's most popular cheese originates in Somerset but is now made all over the country (and, indeed, the world).
A **Stilton** A pungent blue cheese, traditionally eaten after dinner with a glass of port.
A **Wensleydale** Crumbly white cheese from Yorkshire, with a mild, honeyed flavour.
A **Caerphilly** From the Welsh town of the same name, this hard, salty cheese has an annual festival dedicated to it.
A **Cornish Yarg** A rich, creamy cheese characterised by its wrapping of nettle leaves.
A **Caboc** A Highland Scottish cream cheese rolled in oatmeal, whose recipe is more than 500 years old.
## How to Eat & Drink
### When to Eat
**Breakfast** is served in most hotels and B&Bs between 7am and 9am, or perhaps 8am to 10am on weekends. In cafes, the breakfast menu might extend to 11am through the week.
**Lunch** is generally taken between noon and 2pm, and can range from a sandwich and a bag of crisps to a three-course meal with wine. Many restaurants offer a set menu two-course lunch at competitive prices on weekdays, while cafes often have a daily lunch special, or offer soup and a sandwich.
**Afternoon tea** is a tradition inherited from the British aristocracy and eagerly adopted by the middle classes, a between-meals snack now enjoying a revival in country hotels and upmarket tearooms. It consists of dainty sandwiches, cakes and pastries plus, of course, a cup of tea, poured from a silver teapot and sipped politely from fine china cups.
**Dinner** is the main meal of the day, usually served in restaurants between 6pm and 9pm, and consisting of two or three courses – starter, main and dessert. Upmarket restaurant might serve a five-course dinner, with an amuse-bouche to begin, and a fish course between starter and main.
**Sunday lunch** is another great British tradition. It is the main meal of the day, normally served between noon and 4pm. Many pubs and restaurants offer Sunday lunch, where the main course usually consists of roast beef, lamb or pork, accompanied by roast or mashed potatoes, gravy, and boiled vegetables such as carrots and peas.
(In parts of Britain, notably northern England and Scotland, many people use the word 'dinner' for their main midday meal, and 'tea' for a light evening meal. However, this terminology is rarely, if ever, used in restaurants.)
### Where to Eat
A **Cafes** Traditional cafes are simple eateries serving simple food – sandwiches, pies, sausage and chips. Quality varies enormously: some cafes definitely earn their 'greasy spoon' handle, while others are neat and clean.
A **Tearooms** The tearoom is a British institution, serving cakes, scones and sandwiches accompanied by pots of tea (though coffee is usually available too). Upmarket tearooms may also serve afternoon tea.
A **Coffee shops** In most cities and towns you'll also find coffee shops – both independents and international chains – serving decent lattes, cappuccinos and espressos, and continental-style snacks such as bagels, panini or ciabattas.
A **Restaurants** London has scores of excellent restaurants that could hold their own in major cities worldwide, while eating places in other British cities can give the capital a run for its money (often for rather less money).
A **Pubs** Many British pubs serve a wide range of food, and it's often a good-value option whether you want a toasted sandwich between museum visits in London, or a three-course meal in the evening after touring the castles of Wales.
A **Gastropubs** The quality of food in some pubs is now so high that they have created a whole new genre of eatery – the gastropub. The finest are almost restaurants (a few have been awarded Michelin stars) but others go for a more relaxed atmosphere.
## Plan Your Trip
# Travel with Children
Britain is ideal for travelling with children because of its compact size, packing a lot of attractions into a small area. So when the kids in the back of the car say 'are we there yet?' your answer can often be 'yes, we are'.
## Best Regions for Kids
### London
The capital has children's attractions galore; many are free.
### Devon, Cornwall & Wessex
Lovely beaches and reliable weather, though crowded in summer.
### The Midlands
Caverns and 'show caves', plus former railways are now traffic-free cycle routes.
### Oxford & the Cotswolds
Oxford has Harry Potter connections; the Cotswolds is ideal for little-leg strolls.
### Lake District & Cumbria
Zip wires and kayaks for teenagers; boat rides and Beatrix Potter for youngsters.
### Wales
Long coast of beaches and pony-trekking in the hill country. And loads of castles...
### Southern Scotland
Edinburgh and Glasgow have kid-friendly museums; the Southern Uplands offer great mountain biking for a range of skill levels.
### Scottish Highlands & Islands
Hardy teenagers plunge into outdoor activities; dolphin-spotting boat trips are fun for all the family.
## Britain for Kids
Many places of interest cater for kids as much as adults. At historic castles, for example, mum and dad can admire the medieval architecture, while the kids will have great fun striding around the battlements. In the same way, many national parks and holiday resorts organise specific activities for children. It goes without saying that everything ramps up in the school holidays.
### Bargain Hunting
Most visitor attractions offer family tickets – usually two adults plus two children – for less than the sum of the individual entrance charges. Most offer cheaper rates for solo parents and kids, too. Be sure to ask, as these are not always clearly displayed.
### On the Road
If you're going by public transport, trains are great for families: intercity services have plenty of room for luggage and extra stuff like buggies (strollers), and the kids can move about a bit when bored. In contrast, they need to stay in their seats on long-distance coaches.
If you're hiring a car, most (but not all) rental firms can provide child seats – but you'll need to check this in advance. Most will not actually fit the child seats; you need to do that yourself, for insurance reasons.
### BABY-CHANGING FACILITIES
Most museums and other attractions in Britain usually have good baby-changing facilities (cue old joke: I swapped mine for a nice souvenir). Elsewhere, some city-centre public toilets have baby-changing areas, although these can be a bit grimy; your best bet for clean facilities is an upmarket department store. On the road, baby-changing facilities are generally bearable at motorway service stations and OK at out-of-town supermarkets.
### Dining, not Whining
When it comes to refuelling, most cafes and teashops are child-friendly. Restaurants are mixed: some offer high chairs and kiddy portions; others firmly say 'no children after 6pm'.
Children under 18 are usually not allowed in pubs serving just alcohol. Pubs also serving meals generally allow children of any age (with their parents) in England and Wales, but in Scotland they must be over 14 and must leave by 8pm. If in doubt, simply ask the bar staff.
And finally, a word on another kind of refuelling: Britain is still slightly buttoned up about breastfeeding. Older folks may tut-tut a bit if you give junior a top-up in public, but if done modestly it's usually considered OK.
## Children's Highlights
### Best Fresh-Air Fun
If the kids tire of castles and museums, you're never far from a place for outdoor activities to blow away the cobwebs.
AWildlife Cruises, Scotland's west coast What child could resist a boat trip to see seals, porpoises and dolphins, maybe even a whale?
APuzzlewood, Forest of Dean Wonderful woodland playground with mazy paths, weird rock formations and eerie passageways.
AWhinlatter Forest Park, Cumbria Highlights include a Go Ape adventure park and excellent mountain-bike trails, plus live video feeds from red squirrel cams.
ABewilderwood, Norfolk Zip wires, jungle bridges, tree houses, marsh walks, boat trips, mazes and all sorts of old-fashioned outdoor adventure.
ALyme Regis, Dorset Guided tours to find your very own prehistoric fossil.
ACotswold Farm Park Child-friendly introduction to the world of farm animals.
ATissington Trail, Derbyshire Cycling this former railway is fun and almost effortless. You can hire kids' bikes, tandems and trailers. Don't forget to hoot in the tunnels!
A7Stanes MTB Centres, southern Scotland A network of mountain-biking centres offering everything from easy, family-friendly trails with picnic tables and viewpoints, to more challenging routes for teenagers.
### Best Hands-On Action
Please do not touch? No chance. Here are some places where grubby fingers and enquiring minds are positively welcomed.
AScience Museum, London Seven floors of educational exhibits, at the mother of all science museums.
AEnginuity, Ironbridge Endless hands-on displays at the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution.
ANational Waterfront Museum, Swansea Great interactive family fun.
AGlasgow Science Centre Bringing science and technology alive through hundreds of engaging exhibits.
ADiscovery Museum, Newcastle Tyneside's rich history on display; highlights include a buzzers-and-bells science maze.
### Best Rainy-Day Distractions
For those inevitable gloomy days, head for the indoor attractions; don't forget the nation's great collection of museums. Alternatively, try outdoor stuff like coasteering in Pembrokeshire or canyoning in the Lake District. It's always fun – wet or dry.
ACadbury World, Birmingham Dentists may cry, but kids love the story of chocolate. And yes, there are free samples.
AUnderground Edinburgh Take a guided tour of the haunted vaults beneath the medieval Old Town.
AEden Project, Cornwall It may be raining outside, but inside these giant domes it's forever tropical forest or Mediterranean climate.
ACheddar Gorge Caves, Wessex Finally nail the difference between stalactites and stalagmites in the Westcountry's deep caverns.
AUnderground Passages, Exeter Explore medieval catacombs – the only system of its kind open to the public in England.
### Best Stealth Learning
Across the country are many excellent museums, where young minds can be exercised while the kids think they are 'just' having fun.
AAt-Bristol, Bristol One of Britain's best interactive science museums, covering space, technology and the human brain.
ARiverside Museum, Glasgow Top-class interactive museum with a focus on transport.
AJorvik Viking Centre, York Excellent smells-and-all Viking settlement reconstruction.
ANatural History Museum, London Highlights include the life-size blue whale and animatronic dinosaurs.
AThinktank, Birmingham Every display comes with a button or a lever at this 'edutaining' science museum.
ANational Space Centre, Leicester Spacesuits, zero-gravity toilets and miniastronaut training – guaranteed to boost little brains.
ACentre for Alternative Technology, Machynlleth Educational, fun and truly green – great for curious kids.
## Planning
### When to Go
The best time for families to visit Britain is pretty much the best time for everyone else: from April/May to the end of September. It's worth avoiding August – the heart of school summer holidays – when prices go up and roads are busy, especially near the coast. Other school holidays are two weeks around Easter Sunday, and mid-December to early January, plus three week-long 'half-term' breaks – usually late February (or early March), late May and late October.
### Places to Stay
Some hotels welcome kids (with their parents) and provide cots, toys and babysitting services, while others maintain an adult atmosphere. Many B&Bs offer 'family suites' of two adjoining bedrooms with one bathroom, and an increasing number of hostels (YHA, SYHA and independent) have family rooms with four or six beds – some even with private bathroom attached. If you want to stay in one place for a while, renting a holiday cottage is ideal. Camping is very popular with British families, and there are lots of fantastic campsites, but you'll usually need all your own gear.
### Handy Websites
ABaby Goes 2 (www.babygoes2.com) Advice, tips and encouragement (and a stack of advertising) for families on holiday.
AMumsNet (www.mumsnet.com) No-nonsense advice on travel and more from a vast network of UK mothers.
# Regions at a Glance
From the multicultural melting pot of London to the remote islands of the Outer Hebrides, Britain's regions offer a kaleidoscope of classic experiences. Southern England is where you'll find the archetypal English countryside of lush meadows, thatched cottages and games of cricket on the village green. The southwestern counties of Devon and Cornwall are wilder in nature, known for their surf beaches and seafood restaurants. Lovers of mountain scenery will be spoilt for choice in the Scottish Highlands, the Lake District and North Wales, while those who prefer gritty industrial heritage and lively nightlife will enjoy the northern English cities of Manchester, Liverpool and Newcastle. And bang in the middle is Yorkshire, with everything from the gorgeous city of York to the rolling moors of the Yorkshire Dales.
### Regions at a Glance
### London
#### Historic Streets
London's ancient streets contain many of Britain's most famous and history-steeped landmarks. The echoes of the footfalls of monarchs, poets, whores and saints can still be detected in places like the Tower of London, Westminster Abbey and St Paul's Cathedral, as well as the pubs and coaching inns that once served Dickens, Shelley, Keats and Byron.
#### Entertainment
From West End theatres to East End clubs, from Camden's rock venues to Covent Garden's opera house, from tennis at Wimbledon to cricket at Lord's or football at Wembley, London's world-famous venues and arenas offer a perpetual clamour of entertainment.
#### Museums & Galleries
While the British Museum is the big crowd-puller, the capital has museums and galleries of every shape and size – and many of the very best are free.
### Regions at a Glance
### Canterbury & Southeast England
#### Canterbury Cathedral
A major reason to visit southeast England, Canterbury Cathedral is one of the finest cathedrals in Europe, and one of the most holy places in Christendom. Write your own Canterbury tale as you explore its atmospheric chapels, cloisters and crypts.
#### Invasion Heritage
The southeast has always been a gateway for Continental arrivals, some more welcome than others. Castles and fortresses, the 1066 battlefield and Dover's secret wartime tunnels tell the region's story of invasion and defence.
#### Hops & Grapes
Kent is deservedly known as the Garden of England, long celebrated for its hops, which are still used to flavour traditional English beers. Sussex isn't far behind, with England's finest sparkling wine giving the French stuff a run for its euro.
### Regions at a Glance
### Oxford, Cotswolds & Around
#### Oxford Colleges
Oxford's architecture will never leave you indifferent, whether you gaze across the 'dreaming spires' from the top of Carfax Tower, or explore the medieval streets on foot, or simply admire the fantastic gargoyles on the college facades.
#### Blenheim Palace
Favoured by the rich and powerful for centuries, this region is scattered with some of the finest country houses in Britain. Top of the pile is the baroque masterpiece of Blenheim Palace, birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill.
#### Cotswold Villages
Littered with picturesque 'chocolate box' scenes of honey-coloured stone cottages, thatched roofs, neat greens and cobbled lanes, the villages of the Cotswolds provide a charming snapshot of rural England.
### Regions at a Glance
### Bath & Southwest England
#### Cornish Beaches
Britain's southwest peninsula juts determinedly into the Atlantic, fringed by an almost endless chain of sandy beaches, from the picturesque scenery of Kynance Cove to the rolling surf of Newquay.
#### Roman Remains
The handsome Georgian city of Bath – the whole town is a Unesco World Heritage site – is home to one of the best-preserved Roman bath complexes in the world.
#### Hiking & Surfing
If you like to take it nice and easy, come to walk the moors or tootle along cycle trails. If you prefer life fast and furious, come to surf the best waves in England or learn to dive or kitesurf.
### Regions at a Glance
### Cambridge & East Anglia
#### Historic Churches
From the magnificent cathedrals of Ely, Norwich and Peterborough to Cambridge's King's College Chapel, Trinity's Great Court and the New Court at St John's, East Anglia's architectural splendour is second to none.
#### Seaside Resorts
With wide sandy beaches, great seafood, delightful old pubs, globally important bird reserves, historic villages still proud of their nautical heritage and classic seaside resorts such as Southwold and Cromer, the coastline of East Anglia is rich and varied.
#### The Broads
The Norfolk and Suffolk Broads is a tranquil area of lakes and meandering rivers, and an ideal spot for boating, birding, canoeing, cycling or walking, or just getting back to nature at a leisurely pace.
### Regions at a Glance
### Birmingham, the Midlands & the Marches
#### Hiking & Biking
The Peak District National Park, along with Cannock Chase, the Shropshire Hills, the Roaches, the Malvern Hills, Offa's Dyke Path, the Tissington Trail and the Pennine Cycleway, make this region great for hiking and biking.
#### Chatsworth
Grand houses like Haddon Hall, Burghley House and especially Chatsworth promise sprawling deer-filled grounds and grand interiors full of priceless heirlooms and walls dripping with oil paintings.
#### Curry Capital
Foodies take note: Birmingham is the curry capital of the country (and, increasingly, a magnet for Michelin-starred chefs), while the tiny town of Ludlow is an epicentre of gastronomic exploration.
### Regions at a Glance
### Yorkshire
#### Hiking & Biking
With rolling hills, scenic valleys and high moors and a cliff-lined coast all protected by national parks, Yorkshire is a natural adventure playground for hiking, biking, surfing and rock climbing.
#### Real Ale
Lush pasture means Yorkshire beef and lamb is sought after, while the famous breweries of Masham turn out excellent real ales, always best sampled in one of Yorkshire's equally excellent traditional pubs.
#### Ancient Abbeys
From York's Viking heritage and the ancient abbeys of Rievaulx, Fountains and Whitby, to the industrial archaeology of Leeds, Bradford and Sheffield, you can follow several of Britain's most important historical narratives in Yorkshire.
### Regions at a Glance
### Manchester, Liverpool & Northwest England
#### Historical Museums
The northwest's collection of heritage sites, from the wonderful People's History Museum in Manchester to the International Slavery Museum in Liverpool, is testament to the region's rich history and its ability to keep it alive.
#### Football
Two cities, Liverpool and Manchester, give the world four famous clubs, including the two most successful in English history. The National Football Museum in Manchester is just another reason for fans to visit this region.
#### Blackpool
The epitome of the classic English seaside resort just keeps on going, thanks to the rides of the Pleasure Beach amusement park, where adrenalin junkies can always find a fix.
### Regions at a Glance
### The Lake District & Cumbria
#### Lakes & Mountains
The Lake District National Park is the most mountainous part of England, home to Scafell (England's highest summit) and countless scenic lakes. Some are big and famous – Windermere, Coniston, Ullswater – while others are small, hidden and little known.
#### Walking
If anywhere is the heart and soul of walking in England, it's the Lake District. Casual strollers find gentle routes through foothills and valleys, while serious hikers tackle high peaks and fells.
#### William Wordsworth
The beauty of the Lake District famously moved William Wordsworth to write his ode to 'a host of golden daffodils', and Wordsworth landmarks such as Dove Cottage and Hawkshead Grammar School are among the region's big draws.
### Regions at a Glance
### Newcastle & Northeast England
#### Hadrian's Wall
One of the world's premier Roman sites, this potent symbol of imperial power strides for over 70 miles across the neck of England, from Tyneside to the Solway Firth. You can travel its length, stopping off at forts along the way.
#### Northumberland National Park
If it's widescreen vistas you're after, the broad moors, stone villages and expansive views of England's most northerly national park never fail to please.
#### Alnwick Castle
Northumberland is dotted with some of Britain's finest castles, including the coastal fortresses of Bamburgh and Dunstanburgh, but Alnwick – setting for the Harry Potter movies – is the most famous.
### Regions at a Glance
### Cardiff, Pembrokeshire & South Wales
#### Victorian Revival
From the whimsical, fairy-tale structures of Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch to the elegant shopping arcades of the city centre, the Welsh capital has plenty to keep fans of Victorian architecture interested.
#### Pembrokeshire & The Gower
South Wales boasts two of Britain's most beautiful stretches of coast – the Gower Peninsula and Pembrokeshire – between them offering clifftop walks, family-friendly beaches, surfing hot spots and watery adventures such as sea-kayaking and coasteering.
#### Carreg Cennen
South Wales has some of the country's best castles, including Chepstow and Pembroke, but remote Carreg Cennen, in the heart of the Brecon Beacons, is the most spectacularly positioned of them all.
### Regions at a Glance
### Hay-on-Wye & Mid-Wales
#### Red Kites
In the mountains and moors of the Brecon Beacons and many other parts of the region you can spot birds of prey – most famously the once-rare red kites, most easily spotted at feeding stations such as Gigrin Farm in Rhyader.
#### Market Towns
From book-obsessed Hay-on-Wye to quirky Llanwrtyd Wells and quaint Llandrindod Wells, the market towns of Mid-Wales are full of charm.
#### Abergavenny
Restaurants, inns and gastropubs throughout the region are at the forefront of a new Welsh gastronomy, all focused on the nation's foodie capital at Abergavenny.
### Regions at a Glance
### Snowdonia & North Wales
#### Snowdon
Home to some of Britain's finest mountain scenery outside of the Scottish Highlands – and for most visitors much more accessible – the imposing peaks of Snowdon and its neighbours provide a scenic backdrop for innumerable outdoor pursuits.
#### Welsh Slate
Welsh slate once roofed much of the world and the region's quarries and caverns bear witness to the lives of generations of workers, while rejuvenated railways now shunt tourists through spectacular terrain.
#### Seaside Resorts
From the North Coast's popular resort towns to the surf spots and quiet bays of Anglesey and the Llŷn Peninsula, North Wales has plenty of beach to go round.
### Regions at a Glance
### Edinburgh
#### Festival City
Dubbed the Athens of the North, the Scottish capital is a city of art and literature, home to the world's biggest arts festival. Outside festival time, there's plenty to enjoy in the city's many theatres and world-class art galleries and museums.
#### Edinburgh Castle
Perched on a brooding black crag overlooking the city centre, Edinburgh Castle has played a pivotal role in Scottish history, the focus of the nation's capital city since medieval times.
#### Eating Out
Edinburgh has more restaurants per head of population than any city in the UK, while Scottish cuisine has been given a makeover by inventive chefs using top-quality local produce.
### Regions at a Glance
### Glasgow & Southern Scotland
#### Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum
Glasgow's mercantile and industrial history has left the city with a wonderful legacy of museums and art galleries, dominated by the grand Victorian cathedral of culture that is Kelvingrove.
#### The Great Abbeys
Rolling countryside and ruined abbeys are the big draws along the country's southern border, where you'll find the Gothic ruins of Melrose, Jedburgh and Dryburgh abbeys.
#### Dumfries House
This region is rich in Adam-designed mansions such as Culzean Castle and Floors Castle, but the almost perfectly preserved Chippendale time-capsule Dumfries House takes top place.
### Regions at a Glance
### Argyll, Central & Northeast Scotland
#### Stirling Castle
Central and Northeast Scotland are home to the greatest concentration of castles in the country, from the turreted exuberance of Craigievar to the more restrained elegance of Balmoral, and topped by the regal splendour of Stirling.
#### Island-Hopping
Island-hopping is a great way to explore Scotland's western seaboard, and the islands of this region – wild Jura, scenic Mull and the jewel of Iona – provide a brilliant introduction.
#### Speyside Distilleries
No trip to Scotland is complete without a visit to a whisky distillery – the Speyside region and the isle of Islay are epicentres of the industry.
### Regions at a Glance
### Central & Northern Highlands & Islands
#### Hill Walking
Between them, the Cairngorm resort of Aviemore, gateway to snow sports in winter and wild hill-walking in summer, and Fort William, self-styled Outdoor Capital of the UK, offer enough adventure to keep you busy for a year.
#### Mountain Landscapes
Landscape photographers are spoilt for choice, with classic views ranging from the mountain beauty of Glen Coe and the snow-patched summits of the Cairngorms to the rock pinnacles of the Cuillin Hills.
#### Prehistoric Sites
The region is rich in prehistoric remains, including the standing stones of Callanish, the neolithic tomb of Maes Howe, and Skara Brae – Europe's best-preserved prehistoric village.
# England
#### London
#### Canterbury & Southeast England
#### Oxford, Cotswolds & Around
#### Bath & Southwest England
#### Cambridge & East Anglia
#### Birmingham, the Midlands & the Marches
#### Yorkshire
#### Manchester, Liverpool & Northwest England
#### The Lake District & Cumbria
#### Newcastle & Northeast England
# England
## England Highlights
1 Spending more time than you'd planned in England's (and Britain's) endlessly entertaining capital, **London**
2 Being a Jane Austen character for a day in elegant **Bath**
3 Wandering lonely as a cloud in the idyllic **Lake District**
4 Exploring medieval walls, Viking sights and the soaring Gothic minster in historic **York**
5 Falling in love with the impossibly quaint villages of the **Cotswolds**
6 Getting some higher education among the dreaming spires of **Oxford**
7 Punting along the river in **Cambridge**
8 Seeing wild scenery and ancient engineering at **Hadrian's Wall**
9 Catching a Shakespeare play or visiting the Bard's grave in **Stratford-upon-Avon**
a Marvelling at one of Europe's greatest cathedrals in **Canterbury**
Dawn sunshine in English countrysideTONY EVELING / GETTY IMAGES ©
# London
#### London Highlights
#### History
#### Sights
#### City Walk
#### City Walk
#### Tours
#### Festivals & Events
#### Sleeping
#### Eating
#### Drinking & Nightlife
#### Entertainment
#### Shopping
#### Information
# London
%020 / Pop 8.3 million / Area 609 sq miles
### Why Go?
Everyone comes to London with preconceptions shaped by a multitude of books, movies, TV shows and songs. Whatever yours are, prepare to have them exploded by this endlessly fascinating, amorphous city. You could spend a lifetime exploring it and still find that the slippery thing's gone and changed on you. One thing though is constant: that great serpent of a river enfolding the city in its sinuous loops, linking London both to the green heart of England and the world.
From Roman times people from around the globe have come to London, put down roots and complained about the weather. This is one of the world's most multicultural cities – any given street yields a rich harvest of languages, and those narrow streets are also steeped in fascinating history, magnificent art, imposing architecture and popular culture. When you add an endless reserve of cool to this mix, it's hard not to conclude that London is one of the world's great cities, if not the greatest.
### When to Go
ALondon is a place that you can visit any time of the year. That said, different months and seasons boast different charms.
ASpring in the city sees daffodils in bloom and blossom in the trees.
AIn June the parks are filled with people, there's Trooping the Colour, summer arts festivals, Field Day in Victoria Park, other music events, gay pride and Wimbledon.
AAlthough the days are getting shorter, Autumn in London is alive with festivals celebrating literature, the arts and culture.
ALondon in December is all about Christmas lights on Oxford and Regent Sts, and perhaps a whisper of snow.
### Best Places to Eat
ADinner by Heston Blumenthal
AFive Fields
AKoya
ABrasserie Zédel
ALedbury
### Best Places to Stay
AHaymarket Hotel
AZetter Hotel
AHoxton Hotel
ACitizen M
AGoring
## London Highlights
1 Watching the world pass by on a sunny day in Regent's Park or any of London's other green oases
2 Sifting through the booty of an empire at the British Museum
3 Losing your head in history at the Tower of London
4 Sizing up the awe-inspiring architecture of Westminster Abbey
5 Raising a glass while overlooking the Thames from the Dove or another riverside London pub
6 Seeing the locals through beer goggles on a Hoxton bar hop
7 Reaching for the heavens at the top of the dome of St Paul's Cathedral
8 Embarking on an eye-opening tour of modern and contemporary art at the Tate Modern
9 Revelling in the astounding stonework and displays at the Natural History Museum
a Getting your drama fix at Shakespeare's Globe or any of London's outstanding theatres
History
London first came into being as a Celtic village near a ford across the River Thames, but the city only really took off after the Roman conquest in AD 43. The invaders enclosed their 'Londinium' in walls that still find refrain in the shape of the City (with a capital 'C') of London today.
By the end of the 3rd century AD, Londinium was home to some 30,000 people. Internal strife and relentless barbarian attacks wore the Romans down, however, and they abandoned Britain in the 5th century, reducing the settlement to a sparsely populated backwater.
The Saxons moved in next, their 'Lundenwic' prospering and becoming a large, well-organised town. As the city grew in importance, it caught the eye of Danish Vikings, who launched numerous invasions. In 1016 the Saxons, finally beaten down, were forced to accept the Danish leader Knut (Canute) as King of England, after which London replaced Winchester as capital. In 1042, the throne reverted to the Saxon Edward the Confessor, who built Westminster Abbey.
The Norman Conquest of 1066 saw William the Conqueror march into London, where he was crowned king. He built the White Tower (the core of the Tower of London), negotiated taxes with the merchants, and affirmed the city's right to self-government. From then until the late 15th century, London politics were largely taken up by a three-way power struggle between the monarchy, the church and city guilds. An uneasy political compromise was reached between the factions, and the city expanded rapidly in the 16th century under the House of Tudor.
In a rerun of the disease that wiped out half of London's population between 1348 and 1350, the Great Plague struck in 1665, and by the time the winter cold arrested the epidemic, 100,000 Londoners had perished. The cataclysm was followed by further devastation when the Great Fire of 1666 sent the city skywards. One upshot of the conflagration was a blank canvas for master architect Sir Christopher Wren to build his magnificent churches.
Despite these setbacks, London continued to grow, and by 1700 it was Europe's largest city, with 600,000 people. An influx of foreign workers brought expansion to the east and south, while those who could afford it headed to the more salubrious environs of the north and west. Georgian London saw a surge in artistic creativity, with the likes of Dr Johnson, Handel, Gainsborough and Reynolds enriching the city's culture, while architects fashioned an elegant new metropolis.
In 1837, 18-year-old Victoria began her epic reign (to 1901), as London became the fulcrum of the massive British Empire. The Industrial Revolution saw the building of new docks and railways (including the first underground line in 1863), while the Great Exhibition of 1851 showcased London to the world. During the Victorian era, the city's population mushroomed from just over two million to 6.6 million.
Although London suffered a relatively minor bruising during WWI, it was devastated by the Luftwaffe in WWII, when huge swathes of the centre and East End were flattened and 32,000 people were killed. Ugly housing and low-cost developments followed, and pollutants – both residential and industrial – rose steadily into the air. On 6 December 1952, the Great Smog (a lethal combination of fog, smoke and pollution) descended, killing some 4000 people.
Prosperity gradually returned to the city, and creative energy bottled up in the postwar years was suddenly unleashed. In the 'Swinging Sixties', London became the capital of cool in fashion and music – a party followed morosely by the austere 1970s. Since then the city has surfed up and down the |
waves of global fortunes, hanging on to its position as the world's leading financial centre.
In 2000, the modern metropolis won its first mayor of London, an elected role covering the City and all 32 urban boroughs. Bicycle-riding Boris Johnson, a Tory (Conservative) with a shock of blond hair and an affable persona, was elected in 2008, and retained his post in the subsequent 2012 mayoral election.
Triggered by the shooting of a man by police in Tottenham in August 2011, numerous London boroughs were rocked by riots characterised by looting and arson. Analysts still debate the causes of the disorder, ascribing any number of factors from single-parent families to gang culture, unemployment and criminal opportunism.
Both the Olympics and the Queen's Diamond Jubilee concocted a splendid display of pageantry for London in 2012. New overground train lines opened, a cable car was flung across the Thames and a once rundown and polluted area of East London was regenerated for the Olympic Park. The games themselves were a universally applauded success, kicked off by a stupendous Opening Ceremony orchestrated by Danny Boyle.
1Sights
The city's main geographical feature is the murky Thames, which snakes around, but roughly divides the city into north and south. The old City of London is the capital's financial district, covering roughly a square mile bordered by the river and the many gates of the ancient (long-gone) city walls: Newgate, Moorgate etc. The areas east of the City are collectively known as the East End. The West End, on the City's other flank, is effectively the centre of London gravity. It actually falls within the City of Westminster, one of London's 32 boroughs and long the centre of government and royalty.
Surrounding these central areas are dozens of former villages (Camden Town, Islington, Clapham etc), each with its own High St, long ago swallowed by London's sprawl.
When the sun shines make like a Londoner and head to the parks.
#### Westminster & St James's
Purposefully positioned outside the old City (London's fiercely independent burghers preferred to keep the monarch and parliament at arm's length), Westminster has been the centre of the nation's political power for nearly a millennium. The area's many landmarks combine to form an awesome display of authority, pomp and gravitas.
St James's is an aristocratic enclave of palaces, famous hotels, historic shops and elegant edifices, with some 150 historically noteworthy buildings in its 36 hectares.
Westminster & St James's
1Top Sights
1Big BenG3
2Buckingham PalaceC2
3Houses of ParliamentG3
4Westminster AbbeyF3
1Sights
5Apsley HouseA2
6Banqueting HouseG1
7Changing of the GuardC3
8Churchill War RoomsF2
9Green ParkC1
10Institute of Contemporary ArtsF1
11No 10 Downing StreetF2
12Queen's GalleryC3
13Royal MewsC3
14Spencer HouseD1
15St James's PalaceD1
16St Margaret's ChurchF3
17St Stephen's EntranceG3
18Supreme CourtF3
19Wellington ArchB2
20Westminster CathedralD4
2Activities, Courses & Tours
21City CruisesG2
22Westminster Passenger Services AssociationG2
4Sleeping
23GoringC4
24Halkin by ComoA3
5Eating
CellariumF3
6Drinking & Nightlife
25Galvin at WindowsB1
oWestminster AbbeyCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %020-7222 5152; www.westminster-abbey.org; 20 Dean's Yard, SW1; adult/child £18/8, verger tours £3; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, to 7pm Wed, to 2.30pm Sat; tWestminster)
One of London's most imposing treasures, Westminster Abbey serves up the country's venerable history on cold slabs of stone. For centuries, the nation's greatest have been interred here, including most of the monarchs from Henry III (died 1272) to George II (1760). Every sovereign since William the Conqueror has been crowned here, with the exception of a couple of unlucky Eds who were murdered (Edward V) or abdicated (Edward VIII) before the magic moment.
The abbey is not only a sublime place of worship, it's etched with enough history and architectural detail to fill several days' exploration. It has never been a cathedral (the seat of a bishop). It's what is called a 'royal peculiar' and is administered directly by the Crown. Look out for the curiously underwhelming **Coronation Chair**.
The building itself is an arresting spectacle. Though a mixture of architectural styles, it is considered the finest example of Early English Gothic in existence. The original church was built in the 11th century by King (later Saint) Edward the Confessor, who is buried in the chapel behind the main altar. Henry III began work on the new building in 1245 but didn't complete it; the French Gothic **nave** was finished in 1388. Henry VII's astonishing Late Perpendicular–style **Lady Chapel** was consecrated in 1519 after 16 years of construction.
Apart from the royal graves, keep an eye out for the many famous commoners interred here, especially in **Poets' Corner** , where you'll find the resting places of Chaucer, Dickens, Hardy, Tennyson, Dr Johnson and Kipling, as well as memorials to other literary titans (Shakespeare, Austen, Brontë etc). Elsewhere you'll find the graves of Handel and Sir Isaac Newton.
The octagonal **Chapter House** dates from the 1250s and was where the monks would meet for daily prayer before Henry VIII's suppression of the monasteries in 1536. The door on your right as you enter is the oldest in Britain, dating to around 1050 AD. Used as a treasury and 'Royal Wardrobe', the cryptlike **Pyx Chamber** dates from about 1070. The neighbouring **Abbey Museum** has as its centrepiece the death masks of generations of royalty.
Parts of the Abbey complex are free to visitors. This includes the 900-year-old **College Garden** (10am-6pm Tuesday to Thursday April to September, to 4pm Tuesday to Thursday October to March) and the **Cloister** , where drinks and snacks are available at the Coffee Club. For a proper sit-down meal head for the new Cellarium ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %020-7222 0516; www.cellariumcafe.com; Westminster Abbey, 20 Dean's Yard, SW1; mains £9.50-14.50; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat), part of the original 14th-century Benedictine monastery with stunning views of the Abbey's architectural detailing.
Adjacent to the abbey is St Margaret's Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; h9.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm Sat, 2-4.30pm Sun), the House of Commons' place of worship since 1614. There are windows commemorating churchgoers Caxton and Milton, and Sir Walter Raleigh is buried by the altar.
Verger-led tours are held several times a day (except Sunday); call ahead to secure a place. Of course, admission to the Abbey is free if you wish to attend a service. On weekdays, Matins is at 7.30am, Holy Communion at 8am and 12.30pm, and Choral Evensong at 5pm. There are services throughout the day on Sunday. You can sit and savour the atmosphere, even if you're not religious.
oHouses of ParliamentHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.parliament.uk; Parliament Sq, SW1; tWestminster) F
Coming face to face with one of the world's most recognisable landmarks can be a surreal moment, but in the case of the Houses of Parliament, it's a revelation. Photos just don't do justice to the ornate stonework and golden filigree of Charles Barry and Augustus Pugin's neo-Gothic masterpiece (1840). Its most famous feature is its clock tower, aka Big Ben ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) (actually the 13-ton bell, named after Benjamin Hall, commissioner of works when the tower was completed in 1858).
Officially called the **Palace of Westminster** , the oldest part is **Westminster Hall** (1097), one of only a few sections that survived a catastrophic fire in 1834. Its roof, added between 1394 and 1401, is the earliest known example of a hammerbeam roof and has been described as the greatest surviving achievement of medieval English carpentry.
At the business end, parliament is split into two houses. The green-hued **House of Commons** is the lower house, where the 650 elected Members of Parliament sit. Traditionally the home of hereditary bluebloods, the scarlet-decorated **House of Lords** now has peers appointed through various means. Both houses debate and vote on legislation, which is then presented to the Queen for her Royal Assent (in practice, this is a formality; the last time Royal Assent was denied was 1708). At the annual State Opening of Parliament (usually in November), the Queen takes her throne in the House of Lords, having arrived in the gold-trimmed Irish State Coach from Buckingham Palace. It's well worth lining the route for a gawk at the crown jewels sparkling in the sun.
When parliament is in session, visitors are admitted to the **House of Commons Visitors' Gallery**. The best time to watch a debate is during Prime Minister's Question Time at noon on Wednesday, but it's also the busiest. Enter via St Stephen's Entrance ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ). The **House of Lords Visitors' Gallery** can also be accessed.
On Saturdays year-round and when Parliament is in summer recess (mid-July to early September), visitors can join a 75-minute guided tour ( %0844 847 1672; www.ticketmaster.co.uk/housesofparliament; 75min tour adult/child £16.50/7) of both chambers, Westminster Hall and other historic buildings conducted by qualified Blue Badge Tourist Guides in six languages. Tour schedules change with every recess, so check (and book) ahead.
oBuckingham PalacePALACE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %020-7766 7300; www.royalcollection.org.uk; Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1; adult/child £19.75/11.25; h9.30am-7.30pm late Jul-Aug, to 6.30pm Sep; tSt James's Park, Victoria, Green Park)
Built in 1703 for the Duke of Buckingham, Buckingham Palace replaced St James's Palace as the monarch's official London residence in 1837. When she's not giving her famous wave to far-flung parts of the Commonwealth, Queen Elizabeth II divides her time between here, Windsor and Balmoral. To check if she's at home, see whether the yellow, red and blue standard is flying. Nineteen lavishly furnished **State Rooms** are open to visitors when HRH (Her Royal Highness) takes her holidays.
The two-hour tour includes the **Throne Room** , with his-and-hers pink chairs initialed 'ER' and 'P'. Access is by timed tickets with admission every 15 minutes (audioguide included). Needless to say, the gardens are an absolute picture.
Your ticket to Buckingham Palace is good for a return trip if bought direct from the palace ticket office (ask to have it stamped). A 'Royal Day Out' is a combined ticket including the State Rooms, Queen's Gallery and Royal Mews (adult/child £34.50/19.50).
Changing of the GuardCEREMONY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Buckingham Palace Rd, Buckingham Palace, SW1; tSt James's Park, Victoria)
At 11.30am daily from April to July, and on alternate days (weather permitting) from August to March, the old guard (Foot Guards of the Household Regiment) comes off duty to be replaced by the new guard on the forecourt of Buckingham Palace. Highly popular, the show lasts about forty minutes (brace for crowds). If you're here in November, the procession leaving the palace for the State Opening of Parliament is much more impressive.
Queen's GalleryGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.royalcollection.org.uk; Southern wing, Buckingham Palace, Buckingham Gate, SW1; adult/child £9.50/4.80, with Royal Mews £16.25/9.10; h10am-5.30pm; tSt James's Park, Victoria, Green Park)
Originally designed by John Nash as a conservatory, the Queen's Gallery showcases some of the palace's treasures on a rotating basis, through temporary exhibitions. Entrance to the gallery is through Buckingham Gate.
Royal MewsHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.royalcollection.org.uk; Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1; adult/child £8/5, with Queen's Gallery £16.25/9.10; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Mon-Sat Nov & Dec; tVictoria)
Indulge your Cinderella fantasies while inspecting the exquisite state coaches in the Royal Mews, a working stable looking after the immaculately groomed horses and opulent vehicles the royals use for getting from A to B. Highlights include the magnificent gold coach of 1762 and the 1910 Glass Coach (Prince William and Catherine Middleton actually used the 1902 State Landau for their wedding in 2011).
Supreme CourtLANDMARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.supremecourt.gov.uk; Parliament Sq, SW1; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; tWestminster) F
The Supreme Court, the highest court in the UK, is now housed in the neo-Gothic Middlesex Guildhall (1913) on Parliament Square. Members of the public can observe cases when the court is sitting four days a week (Monday to Thursday). On the lower ground floor is a permanent exhibition on the UK's highest court as well as the history of the building.
St James's Park & Palace PARK
( tSt James's Park, Green Park)
With its manicured flower beds and ornamental lake, St James's Park is delightful for strolling and taking in the surrounding palaces. The striking Tudor gatehouse of St James's Palace ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.royal.gov.uk; Cleveland Row, SW1; tGreen Park), initiated by the palace-mad Henry VIII in 1530, is best approached from St James's St, to the north of the park. This was the residence of Prince Charles and his sons before they shifted next door to **Clarence House** (1828), following the death of its previous occupant, the Queen Mother.
Green ParkPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.royalparks.gov.uk; h24hr; tGreen Park)
Green Park's 47-acre expanse of meadows and mature trees links St James's Park to Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, forming a green corridor from Westminster all the way to Kensington. Once a duelling ground, the park became a vegetable garden during WWII. Although it doesn't have lakes, fountains or formal gardens, it's blanketed with daffodils in spring and semi-naked bodies whenever the sun shines.
Westminster CathedralCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.westminstercathedral.org.uk; Victoria St, SW1; tower adult/child £5/2.50; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; tVictoria)
Begun in 1895, this neo-Byzantine cathedral remains a work in progress, with new areas completed as funds allow. Look out for Eric Gill's highly regarded stone **Stations of the Cross** (1918).The **Treasures of the Cathedral** exhibition is rewarding, there's a cafe near the Baptistry and topping it all, the distinctive 83m red-brick and white-stone **tower** offers tantalising views of London and, unlike St Paul's dome, you can take the lift.
The **Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament** and other parts of the interior are ablaze with Eastern Roman mosaics and ornamented with 100 types of marble; other areas are just bare brick.
Banqueting HousePALACE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.hrp.org.uk/banquetinghouse; Whitehall, SW1; adult/child £6.60/free; h10am-5pm; tWestminster)
Beautiful Banqueting House was conceived by Inigo Jones for James I in 1622. It's the only surviving part of Whitehall Palace after the Tudor bit went heavenwards in a 1698 conflagration. The chief attraction is the ceiling, painted by Rubens in 1635 at the behest of Charles I. The king didn't get to savour it for long, in 1649 he was frogmarched out of the 1st-floor balcony to lose his head for treason.
No 10 Downing StreetHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.number10.gov.uk; 10 Downing St, SW1; tWestminster)
It's fittingly British that the official seat of the prime minister is a nondescript Georgian town house in Whitehall. The street was cordoned off with a rather large iron gate during Margaret Thatcher's tenure, so you can't get up close.
Churchill War RoomsMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.iwm.org.uk; Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1; adult/child £17.50/free; h9.30am-6pm, last entry 5pm; tWestminster)
Winston Churchill coordinated the Allied resistance against Nazi Germany on a Bakelite telephone from this underground military HQ during WWII. The Cabinet War Rooms remain much as they were when the lights were flicked off in 1945, capturing the drama and dogged spirit of the time, while the museum affords intriguing insights into the resolute, cigar-smoking wartime leader.
Institute of Contemporary ArtsARTS CENTRE
(ICA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %020-7930 9493; www.ica.org.uk; Nash House, The Mall, SW1; h11am-11pm Tue-Sun, exhibition times vary; tCharing Cross) F
A one-stop contemporary-art bonanza, the excitingly cerebral program at the ICA embraces film, photography, theatre, installations, talks, performance art, DJs, digital art and book readings. Stroll around the galleries, watch a film, browse the left-field bookshop, then hit the bar for a beer.
Spencer HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %020-7514 1958; www.spencerhouse.co.uk; 27 St James's Pl, SW1; adult/child £12/10; h10.30am-5.45pm Sun Feb-Jul & Sep-Dec; tGreen Park)
The ancestral home of Princess Diana's family, Spencer House was built in the Palladian style between 1756 and 1766. It was converted into offices after the Spencers moved out in 1927, but 60 years later an £18 million restoration returned it to its former glory. Visits are by guided tour.
Apsley HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.english-heritage.org.uk; 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Cnr, W1; adult/child £6.90/4.10, with Wellington Arch £8.90/5.30; h11am-5pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct, to 4pm Wed-Sun Nov-Mar; tHyde Park Corner)
This stunning house, containing exhibits devoted to the Duke of Wellington, was designed by Robert Adam for Baron Apsley in the late 18th century. It was later sold to the first Duke of Wellington, who cut Napoleon down to size in the Battle of Waterloo and lived here for 35 years until his death in 1852. With 10 of its rooms open to visitors, the house has a stairwell dominated by Antonio Canova's staggering 3.4m-high statue of a fig-leafed Napoleon with titanic shoulders.
Don't miss the elaborate Portuguese silver service or the impressive Egyptian service, a divorce present from Napoleon to Josephine (she declined it).
Wellington ArchMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.english-heritage.org.uk; Hyde Park Corner, W1; adult/child £4.20/2.50, with Apsley House £8.90/5.30; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct, to 4pm Wed-Sun Nov-Mar; tHyde Park Corner)
Throttled by the Hyde Park Corner roundabout, this is London's answer to the Arc de Triomphe (except this one commemorates France's _defeat_ at the hands of the Duke of Wellington). Erected in 1826, the monument is topped with Europe's largest bronze sculpture: _Peace Descending on the Quadriga of War_ (1912). Until the 1960s, it housed the capital's smallest police station (complete with pet moggy). The open-air balconies afford unforgettable views of Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace and the Houses of Parliament.
On the inside is an exhibition on the history of the arch and the newly opened **Quadriga Gallery**.
### LONDON IN...
### TWO DAYS
Only two days? Start in Trafalgar Sq and see at least the outside of all the big-ticket sights – **London Eye** , **Houses of Parliament** , **Westminster Abbey** , **St James's Park and Palace** , **Buckingham Palace** , **Green Park** , **Hyde Park** and **Kensington Gardens and Palace** – and then motor around the **Tate Modern** until you get booted out. In the evening, explore **Soho**. On day two, race around the **British Museum** , then head to the **City**. Start with our walking tour and finish in the **Tower of London**. In the evening, head to **Clerkenwell** for international eats, then **Hoxton** and **Shoreditch** for hip bars.
### FOUR DAYS
Take the two-day itinerary but stretch it to a comfortable pace, spending extra time in the Tate Modern, British Museum and Tower of London. Stop at the **National Gallery** while you're in Trafalgar Sq and explore inside Westminster Abbey and **St Paul's Cathedral**. On your extra evenings, check out **Camden** and **Islington** or enjoy a no-expenses-spared dinner in **Kensington** or **Knightsbridge**.
### ONE WEEK
As above, but slap on a day each for **Greenwich** , **Kew Gardens** and **Hampton Court Palace**.
#### West End
A strident mix of culture and consumerism, but more a concept than a fixed geographical area, the West End is synonymous with roof-raising musicals, bright lights, outstanding restaurants and bag-laden shoppers. It casts its net around Piccadilly Circus and Trafalgar Sq to the south, Regent St to the west, Oxford St to the north, Covent Garden to the east and the Strand to the southeast.
Named after the elaborate collars (picadils) that were the sartorial staple of a 17th-century tailor who lived nearby, Piccadilly became the fashionable haunt of the well-heeled (and collared), and still boasts establishment icons such as the Ritz hotel and the Fortnum & Mason department store. It meets Regent St, Shaftesbury Ave and Haymarket at the neon-lit swirl of Piccadilly Circus, home to the ever-popular and ever-misnamed Eros statue.
Mayfair, west of Piccadilly Circus, hogs all of the most expensive streets from the Monopoly board, including Park Lane and Bond St, which should give you an idea of what to expect: lots of pricey shops, Michelin-starred restaurants, society hotels and gentlemen's clubs. The elegant bow of Regent St and frantic Oxford St are the city's main shopping strips. At the heart of the West End lies Soho, a boho grid of narrow streets and squares hiding gay bars, strip clubs, cafes and advertising agencies. Carnaby St was the epicentre of the swinging London of the 1960s, but is now largely given over to chain fashion stores. Lisle St and, in particular, Gerrard St (north of Leicester Sq) form the heart of Chinatown, a convergence of reasonably priced Asian restaurants, decorative Chinese arches and aromatic Cantonese supermarkets. Heaving with tourists and dominated by huge cinemas (with occasional star-studded premieres), neighbouring Leicester Sq ( _les_ -ter) has undergone a facelift. Described by Benjamin Disraeli in the 19th century as Europe's finest street, the Strand still boasts a few classy hotels, including the Savoy, but its lustre has dimmed.
West End
1Top Sights
1National GalleryE6
2National Portrait GalleryE6
3Trafalgar SquareE6
1Sights
4Anteros (Eros) StatueC6
5British MuseumF1
6Burlington ArcadeB6
7Courtauld GalleryH5
8Covent Garden PiazzaG4
9London Transport MuseumG4
10Piccadilly CircusC5
11Royal Academy of ArtsB6
12Sir John Soane's MuseumH2
13Somerset HouseH5
14St Paul's ChurchG5
4Sleeping
15Brown's HotelA6
16Covent Garden HotelE3
17Dean Street TownhouseD4
18Haymarket HotelD6
19Hazlitt'sD3
20One AldwychH4
21Seven Dials HotelF3
22YHA London Oxford StreetB3
5Eating
5th ViewC6
23ArbutusD3
24Baozi InnE4
25Bar ShuD4
26BarrafinaF6
27BarrafinaD3
28Bocca di LupoC5
29Brasserie ZédelC5
30CanelaF3
31CevicheD4
32Fernandez & WellsC4
33Great Queen StreetG3
34Hakkasan Hanway PlaceD2
35Hawksmoor Seven DialsF4
36Hummus BrosC4
37KoyaD4
38LimaC2
39MildredsC4
40Monmouth Coffee CompanyF3
41National Dining RoomsE6
42Nordic BakeryC5
43OrchardG1
44Pitt Cue CoB4
PortraitE6
45WahacaF5
6Drinking & Nightlife
46Draft HouseC1
47Duke of WellingtonD4
48EdgeD2
49French HouseD4
50Gordon's Wine BarG6
51HeavenF6
52LABE3
53Lamb & FlagF4
54Museum TavernF1
55Newman ArmsC1
56OpiumD4
57Princess LouiseG2
58SpuntinoC4
59TerroirsF6
60VillageD4
3Entertainment
61100 ClubC2
6212 Bar ClubE3
63Comedy StoreD5
64Donmar WarehouseF3
65London ColiseumF5
66Prince CharlesE5
67Ronnie Scott'sD4
68Royal Opera HouseG4
69Soho TheatreD3
70TKTSE5
7Shopping
71Benjamin Pollock's Toy ShopG4
72Fortnum & MasonB6
73FoylesE3
74HamleysB4
75LibertyA4
76Moomin ShopG4
77Stanford'sF4
78TopshopA3
79WaterstonesC6
Piccadilly CircusSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; tPiccadilly Circus)
Designed in the 1820s and named after the street Piccadilly (heading west to Hyde Park Corner from the square) as it greets the grand sweep of Regent St and Shaftesbury Avenue, Piccadilly Circus is today a tumult of stop-start traffic, blinking neon advertisement panels and camera-toting out-of-towners. At the heart of the action stands the famous aluminium statue of Anteros ( MAP GOOGLE MAP Statue\)) ; Piccadilly Circus), twin brother of Eros, dedicated to the philanthropist and child-labour abolitionist Lord Shaftesbury.
The statue has long been mistaken for Eros, the God of Love, and the misnomer has stuck (it's even marked on the London A-Z, and signs for 'Eros' lead from the underground).
oTrafalgar SquareSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; tCharing Cross)
Trafalgar Sq is the public heart of London, hosting rallies, marches and feverish New Year's festivities. Londoners congregate here to celebrate anything from football victories to the ousting of political leaders. The square is one of the world's grandest public places, with a sandstone Admiral Nelson surveying his fleet from the 43.5m-high **Nelson's Column** at its heart, erected in 1843 to commemorate his 1805 victory over Napoleon off Spain's Cape Trafalgar.
The square is flanked by splendid buildings: Canada House to the west, the **National Gallery** and **National Portrait Gallery** to the north, South Africa House and the church of St Martin-in-the-Fields to the east. Further south stands **Admiralty Arch** , built in honour of Queen Victoria in 1910 (and with a mysterious stone nose around seven foot up from the ground on one of the northernmost arches), and beyond that, the **Mall** (rhymes with 'shall', not 'shawl') is the ceremonial route leading to Buckingham Palace.
oNational GalleryGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.nationalgallery.org.uk; Trafalgar Sq, WC2; h10am-6pm Sat-Thu, to 9pm Fri; tCharing Cross) F
Gazing grandly over Trafalgar Sq through its Corinthian columns, the National Gallery is the nation's most important repository of largely pre-modern art. Four million visitors flock annually to admire its 2300-plus Western European paintings, ranging from the 13th to the early 20th centuries. Highlights include Turner's _The Fighting_ _Temeraire,_ Botticelli's _Venus and Mars_ and van Gogh's _Sunflowers_. The medieval religious paintings in the **Sainsbury Wing** are delightful. The comprehensive audioguides (£3.50) are recommended, as are the free introductory tours.
For sustenance, nothing beats the National Dining Rooms in the Sainsbury Wing.
oNational Portrait GalleryGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.npg.org.uk; St Martin's Pl, WC2; h10am-6pm Sat-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri; tCharing Cross, Leicester Sq) F
The National Portrait Gallery is like stepping into a picture book of English history. Founded in 1856, the permanent collection (around 11,000 works) kicks off with the Tudors on the 2nd floor and descends to contemporary figures (from pop stars to scientists), including Marc Quinn's _Self,_ a frozen self-portrait of the artist's head cast in blood and recreated every five years. An audiovisual guide (£3) is available.
The Portrait ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %020-7312 2490; www.npg.org.uk/visit/shop-eat-drink.php; 3rd fl, National Portrait Gallery, St Martin's Pl, WC2; mains £18.50; h11.45am-2.45pm daily & 5.30-8.15pm Thu-Sat ; tCharing Cross) restaurant pairs superb views towards Westminster with tantalising food.
Royal Academy of ArtsGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.royalacademy.org.uk; Burlington House, Piccadilly, W1; adult/child £10/6; prices vary for exhibitions; h10am-6pm Sat-Thu, to 10pm Fri; tGreen Park)
Hosting high-profile exhibitions and a small display from its permanent collection, the crafty academy made it a condition of joining its exclusive club of 80 artists for new members to donate one of their artworks. The collection embraces works from such masters as Constable, Turner and Sir Norman Foster, while the Summer Exhibition showcases contemporary art. Free tours of the John Madesjki Fine Rooms are held, and the academy has grown its exhibition space by expanding magnificently into 6 Burlington Gardens.
Covent Garden PiazzaSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; tCovent Garden)
Hallowed turf – or cobbles – for opera fans descending on the esteemed Royal Opera House, Covent Garden is one of London's biggest tourist hot spots. London's first planned square, Covent Garden Piazza now hosts bands of tourists shopping in quaint old arcades and ringing street entertainers and buskers. On its western flank rises St Paul's Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.actorschurch.org; Bedford St, WC2; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, varies Sat, 9am-1pm Sun; tCovent Garden), with a lovely courtyard at the back, ideal for a picnic in the sun.
London Transport MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.ltmuseum.co.uk; Covent Garden Piazza, WC2; adult/child £15/free; h10am-6pm Sat-Thu, 11am-6pm Fri; tCovent Garden)
Kids and adults alike can tick off all manner of vehicles here, from sedan chairs to train carriages, trams and taxis, along with original advertising posters, photos and a fab shop for tube-map boxer shorts or a pair of 'Mind the Gap' socks.
Sir John Soane's MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.soane.org; 13 Lincoln's Inn Fields, WC2; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat & 6-9pm 1st Tue of month; tHolborn) F
One of the most atmospheric and intriguing of London's museums, this was the remarkable home of architect and collector extraordinaire Sir John Soane (1753–1837). The house has been left largely as it was when Sir John was taken out in a box. Among his eclectic acquisitions are an Egyptian sarcophagus, dozens of Greek and Roman antiquities and the original _Rake's Progress,_ William Hogarth's set of caricatures telling the story of a late 18th-century London cad.
The 2nd floor of No 13, including Soane's private apartment and model room, was being restored at the time of writing and will be open to the public for the first time |
in history. Tours (£10) depart at 11.30am Tuesday and Friday and at 3.30pm Wednesday and Thursday. Audioguides are free. The evening of the first Tuesday of each month, when the house is candle-lit, sees long queues.
Somerset HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.somersethouse.org.uk; The Strand, WC2; hgalleries 10am-6pm, Safra Courtyard 7.30am-11pm; tCharing Cross, Embankment, Temple)
The first Somerset House was built for the Duke of Somerset, brother of Jane Seymour, in 1551. For two centuries it played host to royals (Elizabeth I once lived here), foreign diplomats, wild masked balls, peace treaties, the Parliamentary army (during the Civil War) and Oliver Cromwell's wake. Having fallen into disrepair, it was pulled down in 1775 and rebuilt in 1801 to designs by William Chambers.
Among other weighty organisations, it went on to house the Royal Academy of the Arts, the Society of Antiquaries, the Navy Board and, that most popular of institutions, the Inland Revenue.
The tax collectors are still here, but that doesn't dissuade Londoners from attending open-air events in the grand Safra courtyard, such as films (Film4 Summer Screen) over 12 days in summer and ice skating in winter. Behind the house, there's a sunny terrace and cafe overlooking the embankment.
Near the Strand entrance, the Courtauld Gallery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.courtauld.ac.uk; Somerset House, The Strand, WC2; adult/child Tue-Sun £6/free, Mon £3/free; h10am-6pm; tCharing Cross, Embankment or Temple) displays a wealth of 14th- to 20th-century art, including a room of Rubens and works by van Gogh, Renoir and Cézanne. Downstairs, the **Embankment Galleries** are devoted to temporary exhibitions; prices and hours vary.
Burlington ArcadeSHOPPING ARCADE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.burlington-arcade.co.uk; 51 Piccadilly, W1; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6.30pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; tGreen Park)
The illustrious Burlington Arcade, built in 1819, is famously patrolled by the Burlington Beadles, uniformed guards who constitute one of the world's smallest private police forces.
Broadcasting HouseTV LOCATION
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %0370 901 1227; www.bbc.co.uk/showsandtours; Portland Pl, W1; adult/child £13.75/9.25; htour days & times vary; tOxford Circus)
The BBC began radio broadcasting in 1932 from this splendid building north of Oxford Street, and the BBC World Service, other radio broadcasting and TV broadcasting in London recently moved in. Join frequent 1½-hour behind-the-scenes tours, peeking at studios and the state-of-the-art newsroom; check the website for details. No children under nine; pre-booking (at least the day before) essential.
#### LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
### ALAN KINGSHOTT: CHIEF YEOMAN WARDER AT THE TOWER
#### Make the Most of Your Visit
To understand the Tower's full history, I suggest visitors take a guided tour (in English) by a Yeoman Warder. With such a vast amount of history within the walls, you should allow at least three hours to fully enjoy your experience.
#### The Crown Jewels
The new presentation of the Crown Jewels is a must-see with a new layout, which will help visitors easily explore our sometimes complex history and ceremonies. Just ask a member of the Jewel House staff about any item: you will be amazed at their wealth of knowledge and it will enhance your visit.
#### The Ravens of the Tower
We must have six ravens at the Tower at any one time by a Royal Decree put in place by Charles II. According to an old legend, should the birds leave, the Monarchy and the White Tower will crumble and fall. We tend not to provoke legends so generally we have eight birds.
#### Recommended Ceremonies
There are many ceremonies at the Tower of London, most of which can be viewed by visitors. However, many happen around royal events such as the Queen's Birthday and the State Opening of Parliament. Alternatively there is the Ceremony of the Keys (the locking up of the Tower of London), which takes place, as it has done for 700 years, at 9.30pm every night. (Note: attendance is free but requires that you apply by post at least two months in advance and supply a return-address envelope.)
#### The City
With beguiling churches, hidden gardens and atmospheric lanes stuffed between iconic corporate towers and office blocks, you could spend weeks exploring the City of London, which, for most of its history, _was_ London. Its boundaries have changed little since the Romans first founded their gated community here two millennia ago.
It's only in the last 250 years that the City has gone from being the very essence of London and its main population centre to just its central business district. But what a business district it is – the 'square mile' remains at the very heart of world capitalism.
Currently fewer than 10,000 people actually live here, although some 300,000 descend on it each weekday, to generate almost three-quarters of Britain's GDP before squeezing back onto the tube. On Sundays the City (capital 'C') becomes a virtual ghost town; it's nice and quiet, but come with a full stomach – most shops, eateries and pubs are closed.
The City
1Top Sights
1St Paul's CathedralD3
2Tower BridgeH5
3Tower of LondonH5
1Sights
420 Fenchurch StG4
530 St Mary AxeG3
6Bank of England MuseumF3
7Dr Johnson's HouseB3
8Gray's InnA1
9GuildhallE2
10Heron TowerG2
11Inner TempleB3
12Leadenhall BuildingG3
13Middle TempleA3
14MonumentF4
15Monument to the People of LondonD3
16Museum of LondonD2
17PinnacleG3
18St Dunstan-in-the-EastG4
19Temple ChurchA3
20Tower Bridge ExhibitionH5
4Sleeping
21Andaz Liverpool StreetG2
22Hotel Indigo Tower HillH3
23London St Paul's YHAC3
24RookeryC1
5Eating
25Café BelowE3
Duck & WaffleG2
26Hummus BrosD3
Restaurant at St Paul'sD3
27St JohnC1
28Sweeting'sE3
6Drinking & Nightlife
29FabricC1
30MadisonD3
31Vertigo 42F2
32Ye Olde Cheshire CheeseB3
3Entertainment
33BarbicanE1
7Shopping
34Petticoat Lane MarketH2
oTower of LondonCASTLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %0844 482 7777; www.hrp.org.uk/toweroflondon; Tower Hill, EC3; adult/child £22/11, audioguide £4/3; h9am-5.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun & Mon, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb; tTower Hill)
A World Heritage Site, the Tower possesses a gruesome and compelling history. In the 1070s, William the Conqueror started work on the White Tower to replace the earlier castle. By 1285, two walls with towers and a moat encompassed it and the defences have barely been altered since. A former royal residence, treasury, mint and arsenal, it became most famous as a prison when Henry VIII moved to Whitehall Palace in 1529 and started meting out his preferred brand of punishment.
The most striking building is indeed the central **White Tower** , with its solid Romanesque architecture and four turrets. Today it houses a collection from the **Royal Armouries** , including Henry VIII's commodious suit of armour. On the 2nd floor is **St John's Chapel** , dating from 1080 and therefore the oldest church in London. To the north stands **Waterloo Barracks** , which now contains the spectacular Crown Jewels, including the platinum crown of the late Queen Mother, set with the 105-carat Koh-i-Noor (Mountain of Light) diamond, and the Imperial State Crown. On the far side of the White Tower rises the **Bloody Tower** , where the 12-year-old Edward V and his little brother were held 'for their own safety' and later murdered, probably by their uncle, the future Richard III. Sir Walter Raleigh did a 13-year stretch here, when he wrote his _History of the World_.
On the small green in front of the **Chapel Royal of St Peter ad Vincula** stood Henry VIII's scaffold, where seven people, including Anne Boleyn and her cousin Catherine Howard (Henry's second and fifth wives) were beheaded.
Look out for the latest in the Tower's long line of famous ravens, which legend says could cause the White Tower to collapse should they leave (their wings are clipped in case they get any ideas).
To get your bearings, take the hugely entertaining free guided tour with any of the Beefeaters (Yeoman Warders). Hour-long tours leave every 30 minutes from the bridge near the main entrance; the last tour is an hour before closing. Book online for cheaper rates.
oTower BridgeBRIDGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; tTower Hill)
London was still a thriving port in 1894 when elegant Tower Bridge was built. Designed to be raised to allow ships to pass (it still lifts around 1000 times a year), electricity has now replaced the original steam power. A lift leads up from the northern tower to the Tower Bridge Exhibition ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.towerbridge.org.uk; adult/child £8/3.40; h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5.30pm Oct-Mar; tTower Hill) 42m above the water, from where you can walk along the east and west-facing walkways.
The exhibition ticket also gets you into the engine rooms below the southern tower, for the mechanical lowdown.
oSt Paul's CathedralCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.stpauls.co.uk; St Paul's Churchyard, EC4; adult/child £16.50/7.50; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat; tSt Paul's)
Dominating the City with one of the world's largest church domes (around 65,000 tons worth), St Paul's Cathedral was designed by Christopher Wren after the Great Fire and built between 1675 and 1710. The site is ancient hallowed ground with four other cathedrals preceding Wren's masterpiece here, the first dating from 604. The dome is famed for eludling Luftwaffe incendiary bombs in December 1940, becoming an icon of dogged London resilience during the Blitz.
Outside the cathedral, to the north, the Monument to the People of London ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) is a simple and elegant memorial to the 32,000 Londoners who weren't so lucky.
As part of the 300th anniversary celebrations, St Paul's underwent a £40 million renovation project that gave the church a deep clean. Inside, some 30m above the main paved area, is the first of three domes (actually a dome inside a cone inside a dome) supported by eight huge columns. The walkway around its base, 257 steps up a staircase on the western side of the southern transept, is called the **Whispering Gallery** because if you talk close to the wall, your words will carry to the opposite side 32m away. A further 119 steps brings you to the **Stone Gallery** , 152 iron steps above which is the **Golden Gallery** at the very top, which rewards you with unforgettable views of London.
**The Crypt** has memorials to up to 300 military demigods, including Wellington, Kitchener and Nelson, whose body lies below the dome. But the most poignant memorial is to Wren himself. On a simple slab bearing his name, a Latin inscription translates as: 'If you seek his memorial, look about you'. Also in the crypt is a cafe and the excellent Restaurant at St Paul's ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %020-7248 2469; www.restaurantatstpauls.co.uk; Crypt, St Paul's Cathedral, EC4; 2-/3-course lunch £21.50/25.95; hlunch noon-3pm, tea 2.30-4.30pm Mon-Sat; W; tSt Paul's).
**The Oculus** in the former treasury projects four short films onto its walls (you'll need the iPad audiotour to hear the sound). If you're not up to climbing the dome, experience it here (audiovisually). Free audio tours lasting 1½ hours are available. Free 1½-hour guided tours leave the tour desk half-a-dozen times a day (10.30am,10.45am, 11.15am, 1pm, 1.30pm and 2pm); head to the desk just past the entrance to check times and book a place. Choral evensong is held most days at 5pm.
Museum of LondonMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.museumoflondon.org.uk; 150 London Wall, EC2; h10am-6pm; tBarbican) F
This riveting museum peels back the layers of historical London for valuable perspectives on this great city. The first gallery, **London before London** , illustrates the settlements predating the Roman era. The Roman section explores the ancient roots of the modern city as we know it, while Saxon, medieval, Tudor and Stuart London are intriguingly brought to life. The museum's new £20 million **Galleries of Modern London** encompasses everything from 1666 (the devastating Great Fire of London) to the present day.
While the Lord Mayor's ceremonial coach is the centrepiece, an effort has been made to create an immersive experience: you can enter reconstructions of an 18th-century debtors' prison, a Georgian pleasure garden and a Victorian street.
GuildhallHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %020-7606 3030; www.guildhall.cityoflondon.gov.uk; Gresham St, EC2; tBank) F
The Guildhall has been the seat of the City's local government for eight centuries and the present building dates from the early 15th century. Visitors can see the **Great Hall** , where the city's mayor is sworn in – it's an impressive space decorated with the shields and banners of London's 12 principal livery companies, carved galleries and a beautiful oak-panelled roof. Beneath it is London's largest **medieval crypt** (visit by free guided tour only, bookings essential).
The **Clockmakers' Museum** charts 500 years of horology with an intriguing collection of more than 700 clocks; the **Guildhall Art Gallery** displays around 250 artworks. Included in the art gallery admission is entry to the remains of an ancient **Roman amphitheatre**.
Bank of England MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum; Bartholomew Lane, EC2; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri; tBank) F
Guardian of the country's current shaky financial system, the Bank of England was established in 1694 when the government needed to raise cash to support a war with France. The centrepiece of this museum is a reconstruction of architect John Soane's original Bank Stock Office, complete with original mahogany counters. A series of rooms leading off the office are packed with exhibits ranging from silverware and coins to a 13kg gold bar you can lift up (and leave behind).
MonumentTOWER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.themonument.info; Fish Street Hill, EC3; adult/child £4/2, incl Tower Bridge Exhibition £10.50/4.70; h9.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar; tMonument)
Designed by Wren to commemorate the Great Fire, the towering Monument is 60.6m high, the exact distance from its base to the bakery on Pudding Lane where the blaze began. Corkscrew your way up the 311 tight spiral steps (claustrophobes beware) for some of London's best wraparound views and twist down again to collect a certificate commemorating your climb.
Dr Johnson's HouseMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.drjohnsonshouse.org; 17 Gough Sq, EC4; adult/child £4.50/1.50, audioguide £2; h11am-5.30pm Mon-Sat May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr; tChancery Lane)
The Georgian house where Samuel Johnson and his assistants compiled the first English dictionary (between 1748 and 1759) is full of prints and portraits of friends and intimates, including the good doctor's Jamaican servant to whom he bequeathed this grand residence.
Inns of CourtHISTORIC BUILDINGS
All London barristers work from within one of the four atmospheric Inns of Court, positioned between the walls of the old City and Westminster. It would take a lifetime working here to grasp all the intricacies of their arcane protocols, originating in the 13th-century. It's best just to soak up the dreamy ambience of the alleys and open spaces and consider the roll call of former members that includes Oliver Cromwell, Charles Dickens, Mahatma Gandhi and Margaret Thatcher.
Lincoln's Inn ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.lincolnsinn.org.uk; Lincoln's Inn Fields, Newmans Row, WC2; hgrounds 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, chapel noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri; tHolborn) still has some original 15th-century buildings. It's the oldest and most attractive of the bunch, with a 17th-century chapel and pretty landscaped gardens.
Gray's Inn ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.graysinn.org.uk; Gray's Inn Rd, WC1; hgrounds 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, chapel 10am-6pm Mon-Fri; tChancery Lane) was largely rebuilt after the Luftwaffe levelled it.
Middle Temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.middletemple.org.uk; Middle Temple Lane, EC4; hgrounds 10-11.30am & 3-4pm Mon-Fri; tTemple) and Inner Temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.innertemple.org.uk; King's Bench Walk, EC4; hgrounds 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, gardens 12.30-3pm Mon-Fri; tTemple) both sit between Fleet St and Victoria Embankment. The former is the best preserved, while the latter is home to the intriguing 12th-century Temple Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %020-7353 8559; www.templechurch.com; adult/concession £4/2; h11am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, hours vary), built by the Knights Templar and featuring nine stone effigies of knights in its round chapel. Check the church's website or call ahead for opening hours.
St Katharine DocksHARBOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; tTower Hill)
A centre of trade and commerce for 1000 years, St Katharine Docks is today a buzzing waterside area of pleasure boats, shops and eateries. It was badly damaged during WWII, but survivors include the popular **Dickens Inn** , with its original 18th-century timber framework, and **Ivory House** (built 1854), which used to store ivory, perfume and other precious goods. It's the perfect starting point for exploring Wapping and Limehouse.
### LONDON'S NEW SKYSCRAPERS
A recent scramble for high-altitude, futuristic towers – given further lift by the Olympics – has shaken up the otherwise rather staid, low-lying London skyline. Most famous is the Shard, rising over London Bridge like a vast glass splinter and home to the high-altitude five-star Shangri-La hotel. The City of London's tallest building, the straight-edged Heron Tower ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 110 Bishopsgate, EC2; tAldgate or Bank) was completed just up the road from 30 St Mary Axe (Gherkin; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.30stmaryaxe.co.uk; 30 St Mary Axe, EC3; tAldgate) in 2011. The top-heavy and bulging 20 Fenchurch S (Walkie Talkie; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) )t will be topped with a vast sky garden boasting magnificent views over town, while the wedge-shaped 48-storey, 225m-high Leadenhall Building (Cheese Grater; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 122 Leadenhall St, EC3) cuts into the sky just north of the Lloyd's building. Construction on the concrete stub of the radically-designed Pinnacle (Helter Skelter; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 22-24 Bishopsgate, EC2; tAldgate or Bank) – which has earned its nickname due to its cork-screwing top – was on hold at the the time of writing.
#### South Bank
Londoners once crossed the river to the area controlled by the licentious Bishops of Southwark for all manner of bawdy frolicking frowned upon in the City. It's a much more seemly and temperate area these days, but the frisson of theatre and entertainment survives. While South Bank only technically refers to the area of river bank between Westminster and Blackfriars Bridges (parts of which are actually on the east bank due to the way the river bends), we've used it as a convenient catch-all for those parts of Southwark and Lambeth that sit closest to the river.
South Bank
1Top Sights
1Imperial War MuseumC4
2London EyeA2
3Shakespeare's GlobeD1
4Tate ModernD1
1Sights
5Hayward GalleryA2
6HMS BelfastG1
7London Bridge Experience & London TombsF1
8London DungeonA3
9London Sea Life AquariumA3
10Old Operating Theatre Museum & Herb GarretF2
11ShardF2
12Southwark CathedralE1
13White Cube BermondseyG3
2Activities, Courses & Tours
14London Bicycle TourB1
15London Duck ToursA3
4Sleeping
16Citizen MD2
17OasisE2
Shangri-La Hotel at the ShardF2
18St Christopher's InnE2
19St Christopher's VillageE2
5Eating
20M ManzeG4
21MagdalenG2
22Monmouth Coffee CompanyE2
23SkylonA2
6Drinking & Nightlife
24George InnE2
25Ministry of SoundD4
26RakeE1
3Entertainment
27BFI IMAX CinemaB2
28BFI SouthbankB1
29National TheatreB1
30Old VicB3
31Southbank CentreA2
32Young VicC2
7Shopping
33Borough MarketE2
oTate ModernMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.tate.org.uk; Queen's Walk, SE1; h10am-6pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; tSouthwark, St Paul's) F
One of London's biggest attractions, this outstanding modern and contemporary art gallery is housed in the creatively revamped **Bankside Power Station** south of the Millennium Bridge. A riveting synthesis of funky modern art and capacious industrial brick design, the result is an art-going tour de force. Tate Modern has also been extraordinarily successful in bringing challenging work to the masses, while a stunning extension is under construction, aiming for a 2016 completion date.
The multimedia guides (£3.50) are worthwhile and there are free 45-minute guided tours of the collection's highlights (Level 3 at 11am and midday; Level 5 at 2pm and 3pm).
oShakespeare's GlobeHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.shakespearesglobe.com; 21 New Globe Walk, SE1; adult/child £13.50/8; h9am-5.30pm; tLondon Bridge)
Today's Londoners may flock to Amsterdam to misbehave, but back in the bard's day they'd swarm across London Bridge to Southwark. Free from the city's constraints, men could settle down to a diet of whoring, bear-baiting and heckling of actors. The most famous theatre was the Globe, where a genius playwright was penning box-office hits such as _Macbeth_ and _Hamlet_. Admission includes the exhibition hall and a guided tour of the theatre (departing every 15 to 30 minutes).
The original Globe – known as the 'Wooden O' after its circular shape and roofless centre – was erected in 1599. Rival to the Rose Theatre, all was well but did not end well when the Globe burned down within two hours during a performance in 1613 (a stage cannon ignited the thatched roof). A tiled replacement fell foul of the party-pooping Puritans in 1642, who saw the theatre as the devil's workshop, and it was dismantled two years later. Its present-day incarnation – faithfully reconstructed from oak beams, handmade bricks, lime plaster and thatch – is the vision of American actor and director Sam Wanamaker, who sadly died before the opening night in 1997.
From April to October plays are performed, and while Shakespeare and his contemporaries dominate, modern plays are also staged (see the website for upcoming performances). As in Elizabethan times, seatless 'groundlings' (up to 700 of them) can watch in all-weather conditions (£5; seats are £15 to £39) for the best views. There's no protection from the elements (or over-flying jetliners) and you'll have to stand, but it's an unforgettable experience.
The Globe has recently added a new **Sam Wanamaker Playhouse** , an indoor Jacobean theatre, to its repertoire.
Tours of the theatre shift to the nearby **Rose Theatre** instead when matinees are being staged in season.
oLondon EyeVIEWPOINT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %0871 781 3000; www.londoneye.com; adult/child £21/15; h10am-8pm; tWaterloo)
This 135m-tall, slow-moving and refurbed Ferris-wheel-like attraction is the world's tallest 'cantilevered observation wheel'. Passengers ride in enclosed egg-shaped pods; the wheel takes 30 minutes to rotate completely, offering 25-mile views on clear days. Drawing 3.5 million visitors annually, at peak times (July, August and school holidays), it can seem like they are all in the queue with you. Save money and shorten queues by buying tickets online, or cough up an extra £10 to showcase your fast-track swagger.
Alternatively, visit before 11am or after 3pm to avoid peak density.
oImperial War MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.iwm.org.uk; Lambeth Rd, SE1; h10am-6pm; tLambeth North) F
Reopened in July 2014 after a massive refurbishment and fronted by a pair of intimidating 15in naval guns that could lob a 1938lb shell over 16 miles, this riveting museum is housed in what was once Bethlehem Royal Hospital, known notoriously as Bedlam.
As well as terrific new First World War Galleries and a stunning new Foster+Partners atrium, exhibits include Lawrence of Arabia's 1000cc motorbike, a German V-2 rocket, a doodlebug, a lifelike replica of Little Boy (the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima), a Spitfire, Harrier Jet and other classic fighter planes dangling from the ceiling, plus a WWII bomb shelter and a Holocaust exhibition.
ShardNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.the-shard.com; 32 London Bridge St, SE1; adult/child £29.95/23.95; h9am-10pm; tLondon Bridge)
Puncturing the skies above London, the crystalline splinter-like form of the Shard – the tallest building in Western Europe – has rapidly become a dramatic icon of town. The tower boasts the brand new, five-star Shangri-La Hotel at the Shard, restaurants and viewing platforms on floors 68, 69 and 72 – book online to save £5.
Old Operating Theatre Museum & Herb GarretMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.thegarret.org.uk; 9a St Thomas St, SE1; adult/child £6.50/3.50; h10.30am-5pm; tLondon Bridge)
The highlight of this unique museum, 32 steps up the spiral stairway of the tower of St Thomas Church (1703), focuses on the nastiness of 19th-century hospital treatment. A fiendish array of amputation knives presages the operating theatre, where doctors operated in rough-and-ready (pre-ether, pre-chloroform, pre-antiseptic) conditions. A demonstration on Victorian speed surgery kicks off at 2pm on Saturdays and one on how drugs were made at 2pm on Sundays.
Also browse the natural remedies in the herb garret, including snail water for venereal disease and bladderwrack for goitre and tuberculosis.
Southwark CathedralCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %020-7367 6700; cathedral.southwark.anglican.org; Montague Close, SE1; donations welcome; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; tLondon Bridge)
The earliest surviving chunks of this relatively small cathedral are the retrochoir at the eastern end, some ancient arcading by the southwest door, 12th-century wall cores in the north transept and an arch that dates to the original Norman church, although most of the cathedral is Victorian. In the south aisle of the nave, hunt down the green alabaster monument to William Shakespeare, next to which is a plaque to Sam Wanamaker (1919–93).
Not far away hangs a splendid icon of Jesus Christ illuminated by devotional candles, and don't overlook the exceedingly fine Elizabethan sideboard in the north transept.
Design MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.designmuseum.org; 28 Shad Thames, SE1; adult/child £12.40/6.20; h10am-5.45pm; c; tTower Hill)
Housed in a 1930s-era warehouse, the rectangular galleries here stage a revolving program of special exhibitions devoted to contemporary design, host the annual _Brit Insurance Design Awards_ competition for design innovations, and display a permanent collection of modern British design. The museum is moving to a new site in the former Commonwealth Institute south of Kensington's Holland Park in November 2015.
HMS BelfastSHIP
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.iwm.org.uk/visits/hms-belfast; Queen's Walk, SE1; adult/child £15.50/free; h10am-5pm; c; tLondon Bridge)
White ensign flapping on the Thames breeze, HMS _Belfast_ is a magnet for naval-gazing kids. This large, light cruiser served in WWII, helping sink the German battleship _Scharnhorst_ and shelling the Normandy coast on D-Day. Explore the nine decks and see the engine room, gun decks, galley, chapel, punishment cells, canteen and dental surgery. The excellent audioguide takes you on a 1½-hour tour of the ship, only available until 3.30pm.
London DungeonHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.thedungeons.com/london; County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1; adult/child £25.20/19.80; h10am-5pm, extended hours holidays; c; tWestminster, Waterloo)
Older kids will enjoy the London Dungeon: it's all macabre free-fall hangman's drops, spooky boat rides, fake blood and actors hamming it up as gory criminals (including Jack the Ripper and Sweeney Todd), torturers and judges, plus ghastly interactive mayhem, with doses of salacious humour to boot. It recently moved from its old haunt to County Hall, by the London Eye.
London Bridge Experience & London TombsHISTORIC ATTRACTION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com; 2-4 Tooley St, SE1; adult/child £23/17; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; c; tLondon Bridge)
Kicking off with the relatively tame London Bridge Experience, where actors bring to life the bridge's history with the assistance of severed heads, the London Tombs turns up the terror once the education bit is out of the way. Adding to the creepiness is the knowledge that these were once plague pits and therefore actual tombs. The experience takes about 45 minutes, with the tombs an optional additional 25 minutes.
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London Sea Life AquariumAQUARIUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.visitsealife.com; Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1; adult/child £22.20/16.50; h10am-7pm; tWestminster, Waterloo)
This is one of the largest aquariums in Europe, with a beautiful and educational array of aquatic (many endangered) creatures from the briny deep grouped into different zones (coral cave, rainforest, River Thames), kicking off with a shark walkway. Check the website for shark-feeding times and book online for a 10% discount.
White Cube BermondseyGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.whitecube.com; 144-152 Bermondsey St, SE1; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tLondon Bridge) F
The new White Cube Bermondsey has ample exhibition space, designed to showcase large and ambitious installation pieces.
Hayward GalleryGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.southbankcentre.co.uk; Belvedere Rd, SE1; h10am-6pm Sat-Wed, to 8pm Thu & Fri; c; tWaterloo)
The 1968 Brutalist architecture is as opinion-dividing as you can get, but the popular international contemporary art shows held here constitute a further rich seam of culture in the Southbank Centre.
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"Mar; tStratford), a 115m-high observation tower that opened during the games. Panoramic views of t(...TRUNCATED) |
"\n(www.virginmoneylondonmarathon.com)\n\nUp to half a million spectators applaud whippet-thin champ(...TRUNCATED) |
" skewers), ceviche (citrus-marinated raw fish) and heart-warming shots of pisco.\n\nOrchardVEGETARI(...TRUNCATED) |
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