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Great Britain
# Contents
## Plan Your Trip
### Welcome to Great Britain
### Great Britain's Top 26
### Need to Know
### First Time Great Britain
### What's New
### If You Like...
### Month by Month
### Itineraries
### The Great Outdoors
### Eat & Drink Like a Local
### Travel with Children
### Regions a... |
Scotland, many open to visitors, with Speyside one of the main concentrations and a favourite spot for connoisseurs. Before enjoying your tipple, heed these warnings: never spell whisky with an 'e' (that's the Irish variety); and when ordering at the bar, never ask for 'Scotch'. What else would you drink in Scotland?
... |
cruise across the classic English countryside of the **Cotswolds** to reach the university city of **Oxford**. Not far away is **Stratford-upon-Avon** , for everything Shakespeare.
Strike out north to Scotland's capital, **Edinburgh** , for another great castle, before recrossing the border to **York** for its glorio... |
reared on the rich pastures of Devon and Cornwall create some of Britain's finest dairy produce, notably the famous clotted cream (a very thick cream made by heating full-cream milk) that forms an essential component of Cornish cream teas. Less refined but equally tasty are Cornish pasties (crimped pastry parcels cont... |
waves of global fortunes, hanging on to its position as the world's leading financial centre.
In 2000, the modern metropolis won its first mayor of London, an elected role covering the City and all 32 urban boroughs. Bicycle-riding Boris Johnson, a Tory (Conservative) with a shock of blond hair and an affable persona... |
in history. Tours (£10) depart at 11.30am Tuesday and Friday and at 3.30pm Wednesday and Thursday. Audioguides are free. The evening of the first Tuesday of each month, when the house is candle-lit, sees long queues.
Somerset HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.somersethouse.org.uk; The Strand, WC2; ... |
Over 50 million eager art-goers poured through Tate Modern in its first decade since opening, making it one of the most-visited of London's sights. The ambitiously run exhibition space is growing with the conversion of two underground oil tanks, while a funky 11-storey extension is slated for a 2016 opening date.
Not... |
Mar; tStratford), a 115m-high observation tower that opened during the games. Panoramic views of the park can also be had from the View Tube ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.theviewtube.co.uk; The Greenway; h9am-5pm; dDLR Pudding Mill Lane) on the Greenway. Right alongside the park, Westfield Stratford City is Europe's largest... |
(www.virginmoneylondonmarathon.com)
Up to half a million spectators applaud whippet-thin champions and outlandishly clad greenhorns charging down London's streets in late April.
Chelsea Flower ShowHORTICULTURE
(www.rhs.org.uk/chelsea; Royal Hospital Chelsea; admission from £23)
Held in May, arguably the world's mo... |
skewers), ceviche (citrus-marinated raw fish) and heart-warming shots of pisco.
OrchardVEGETARIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.orchard-kitchen.co.uk; 11 Sicilian Ave, WC1; mains £6.50-7; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri; v; tHolborn)
Delightfully ensconced amid the charming buildings of Sicilian Ave, this homely eatery is a must... |
15; hnoon-11pm; tCamden Town)
Mango Room is an upmarket Caribbean experience serving a mix of modern and traditional dishes – Creole snapper, goat curry, jerk chicken – set to ska and reggae beats.
#### Islington
Allow at least an evening to explore Islington's Upper St, along with the lanes leading off it.
Trul... |
uk; 4-6 Ballast Quay, SE10; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; dDLR Cutty Sark)
Housed in a delightful bow-windowed, wood-beamed Georgian building facing the Thames, this historic gem has half a dozen cask-conditioned ales on tap, and riverside seating outside.
#### Hampstead & Highgate
Holly BushPUB
( GOOGLE... |
itely beautiful store, Daunt is one of London's loveliest travel bookshops (and stocks general fiction and nonfiction titles as well).
#### Hoxton, Shoreditch & Spitalfields
Rough Trade EastMUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.roughtrade.com; Dray Walk, Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick Lane, E1; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm... |
time children's favourite TV show, _Bagpuss_.
St Augustine's AbbeyRUIN
(EH; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Longport; adult/child £5/3; h10am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Wed-Sun Apr-Jun & Sep-Oct, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)
An integral but often overlooked part of the Canterbury World Heritage Site, St Augustine's Abbey was foun... |
amsgate** Thanet Loop Bus; £1.80, up to every ten minutes
Train
A **London St Pancras** High-speed service, £38.10, one hour 20 minutes, hourly
A **London Victoria** £22.30, two hours, twice hourly
### Ramsgate
Pop 40,000
The most varied of Thanet's towns, Ramsgate has a friendlier feel than rival Margate and is ... |
ay; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, reduced hours Nov-Mar)
See a town-model audiovisual history for £3.50 and, upstairs, a freaky collection of penny-in-the-slot novelty machines.
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( %01797-229049; www.visit1066country.com; 4-5 Lion St; h10am-5pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar)
Accommodation bookings... |
all day long.
Tea CosyCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.theteacosy.co.uk; 3 George St; teas £3.50-12; hnoon-5pm Wed-Fri & Sun, to 5.30pm Sat)
Tearoom offering cakes and sandwiches, though you can hardly get in the door due to the royal family memorabilia, including ample Kate and Wills paraphernalia.
Mock TurtleCA... |
to Stay
ABradley
AGlove House
AStar Cottage
AHope House
AOxford Coach & Horses
## Oxford, Cotswolds & Around Highlights
1 Following in the footsteps of JRR Tolkien, CS Lewis, Evelyn Waugh and Oscar Wilde as you tour the Oxford colleges
2 Having a wizard of a time at the Making of Harry Potter studio tour in Le... |
Potter_ and Blenheim Palace tours – check times and prices online.
Oxford City WalkWALKING TOUR
( %07530 951320; www.oxfordcitywalk.co.uk; 2hr tour for up to 5 people £50)
Bespoke tours tweaked to your party's interests, whether that be architecture, literature, history, science, music, university life or detective... |
, Cirencester is the most significant town in the southern Cotswolds, and the lively Monday and Friday markets are as important as the expensive boutiques and trendy delis that line its narrow streets.
1Sights & Activities
Corinium MuseumMUSEUM
(www.coriniummuseum.org; Park St; adult/child £5/2.50; h10am-4pm Mon-Sa... |
/child £7/3; h10am-5pm; #)
Created by Bertie Mitford (Lord Redesdale) in 1880, these exotic woodlands feature more than 3300 labelled trees, bamboos and shrubs from Nepal, China, Japan and North America. Highlights include vast American redwoods, flowering Japanese cherries (at their best in spring) and the strangel... |
5Eating
5Le Champignon SauvageB5
6PrithviC3
7Red PepperC3
8The TavernB3
6Drinking & Nightlife
9Sandford Park Ale HouseC3
1Sights
WilsonMUSEUM, GALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.thewilson.org.uk; Clarence St; h9.30am-5.15pm) F
Cheltenham's excellent museum depicts local life through the ages and has wonderf... |
Albert at Windsor Castle in 1861, Queen Victoria ordered its elaborate redecoration as a tribute to her husband. A major feature of the restoration is the magnificent vaulted roof, whose gold mosaic pieces were crafted in Venice. There's a monument to the prince, although he's actually buried with Queen Victoria in th... |
; Peninsula Barracks, Romsey Rd; adult/child £4/1.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, plus Sun Jul-Sep)
The pick of Winchester's cluster of army museums, with its mini rifle-shooting range, a room of 6000 medals and an impressive blow-by-blow diorama of Napoleon's downfall, the Battle of Waterloo.
Hospital of St CrossHISTORIC BU... |
Bluebird_ , which broke the 403mph (649km/h) limit in 1964. Celebrity wheels include those driven by James Bond and Mr Bean.
Beaulieu's grand but homely **palace** began life as a 14th-century Gothic abbey gatehouse, but received a 19th-century Scottish baronial makeover from Baron Montague in the 1860s. Listen out fo... |
, a suburb with a cool urban-surfer vibe.
1Sights & Activities
Bournemouth BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP ) )
Bournemouth's sandy shoreline regularly clocks up seaside awards. It stretches from Southborne in the far east to Alum Chine in the west – an immense promenade backed by 3000 deckchairs, ornamental gardens, kids'... |
velist Thomas Hardy was a trained architect and designed this attractive house, where he lived from 1885 until his death in 1928. _Tess of the D'Urbervilles_ and _Jude the Obscure_ were both written here, and the house contains several pieces of original furniture. It's a mile east of Dorchester, on the A352.
Hardy's ... |
, a glittering Lyme Bay sweeps out behind. The perfect spot for a proper English afternoon tea, complete with scones, jam and dainty sandwiches. The hotel's best bedrooms (singles £90, doubles £177 to £235) boast bay windows and sea views; the back-facing ones are charming too.
Mill CafeBISTRO
( %01297-445757; www.to... |
Age builders equipped with only the simplest of tools. Although no one is entirely sure how the builders transported the stones so far, it's thought they probably used a system of ropes, sledges and rollers fashioned from tree trunks – Salisbury Plain was still covered by forest during Stonehenge's construction.
Arou... |
cakecompany.co.uk; 19 High St; items from £3; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
Real rarities stack the shelves here: Exmoor ale, cheese and wholegrain mustard bread; Somerset cider cake; venison and port pie (note the typically Exmoor warning: 'Game pies may contain lead shot').
Mortimers CAFE
( %01398-323850; 13 High... |
and you have modern-diner dining that's a cut above the rest.
HerbiesVEGETARIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 15 North St; mains £7-11; h11am-2.30pm Mon-Sat, 6.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat;; v)
Cosy and gently groovy, Herbies has been cheerfully feeding Exeter's veggies for more than 20 years. Tuck into delicious Tuscan mushrooms... |
a reputation for being alternative that local jokers wrote 'twinned with Narnia' under the town sign. For decades famous as Devon's hippie haven, eco-conscious Totnes also became Britain's first 'transition town' in 2005, when it began trying to wean itself off a dependence on oil. Sustainability aside, Totnes boasts ... |
60; hschool holidays only)
Runs wall- and rock-climbing sessions, plus activities including archery, abseiling and wild camping.
### PREHISTORIC DARTMOOR
With an estimated 11,000 monuments Dartmoor is ripe for archaeological explorations. It has the largest concentration of Bronze Age (c 2300–700 BC) remains in the... |
wooden floors, raspberry-red walls and sea views – the best is from number 3, under the eaves.
oBerridon FarmCAMPSITE
( %01409-241552; www.berridonfarm.co.uk; near Bradworthy; 3 nights £400-515, 7 nights £575-975; hEaster–mid-Oct; p)
At Berridon camping goes seriously comfy. Here five- or six-person, insulated s... |
hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)
Country food with a modern twist is served at the Cowshed. The focus is on quality, locally sourced meat – aged beef, wild rabbit, pork belly, plus the _pièce de la résistance_ 'steak on stone', served sizzling on a hot lava rock. The three-course lunch and sharing boards (£15.30 to £18.50 for fou... |
.5 miles, two hours
Start this architectural amble at 1Bath Abbey, the city's iconic ecclesiastical edifice, built on the site of an 8th-century chapel. From the abbey square, head south along Stall St for a view of the 19th-century 2Pump Room. Turn left onto York St, and follow it west to 3 **Parade Gardens** , a lan... |
built right into the cathedral's west gate. Rooms are decorated in regal reds and duck-egg blues; the best have four-poster beds and knockout cathedral views through latticed windows. They're £15 extra, but worth it.
Stoberry HouseB&B
( %01749-672906; www.stoberryhouse.co.uk; Stoberry Park; d £85-145; p W)
Just ou... |
, by night it's a smart seafood restaurant.
8Information
Bude Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( %01288-354240; www.visitbude.info; The Crescent; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, plus 10am-4pm Sun summer)
Beside the main car park near the Castle.
8Getting There & Away
Bus 594/595 (six daily Monday to Saturday, four on Sunday... |
to 5pm Sep-May).
5Eating & Drinking
oNo 4 PetervilleBISTRO
( %01872-554245; Peterville Sq, St Agnes; mains £12-16.95; h7-10.30pm Wed-Sat, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun)
An impressive address at the bottom of St Agnes that's earned a loyal following with its continental-style bistro food: whole plaice with curried mussel bu... |
, hourly on Sunday).
Train
Penzance is the last stop on the line from London Paddington.
A **Exeter** (£19.80, three hours)
A **London Paddington** (£60.50, 5½ hours)
A **Truro** (£6.40, 30 minutes)
### The Lizard
Once notorious as a smugglers' haven and an ill-famed graveyard for ships, the rugged Lizard Penins... |
bucket-and-spade resort. Split into East and West Looe and linked by a historic arched bridge, it's a pleasant base for exploring Cornwall's southeastern reaches, and has some lovely beaches nearby.
1Sights & Activities
Half a mile offshore is tiny **Looe Island** , a 9-hectare nature reserve run by the Cornwall Wil... |
University of Cambridge. Cambridge wasn't spared by the riots, and brawls between town and gown took place with disturbing regularity here as well.
The first Cambridge college, Peterhouse (never Peterhouse _College_ ), was founded in 1284, and in 1318 Pope John XXII's papal bull declared Cambridge to be an official u... |
British cheeses.
Folk FestivalMUSIC
(www.cambridgefolkfestival.co.uk; hlate-Jul–early-Aug)
Acclaimed four-day music fest in neighbouring Cherry Hinton Hall, which has hosted the likes of Van Morrison, Ladysmith Black Mambazo, Sinéad O'Connor, Paul Simon and kd lang.
May BallsFORMAL BALLS
( hearly Jun)
The bigge... |
( %01206-382700; www.the-company-shed.co.uk; 129 Coast Rd, West Mersea; mains £4-12; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)
Bring your own bread and wine to this seaside shack to tuck into mussels, Colchester oysters, prawns, lobster, jellied eels and smoked fish, courtesy of the Howard family – eighth-generation oyster-m... |
.
4Sleeping
oFoxINN
( %01284-705562; www.oldenglishinns.co.uk; 1 Eastgate St; d £90-150; p W)
Slumber in these converted animal barns and be surrounded by carefully kept original features: whitewashed beams, weathered brick walls and even the livestock tethering rings. Painted wicker chairs and the odd chandelier... |
** (www.norwichinternational.com), 4 miles north of town; has connections to Amsterdam, Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Manchester year round, plus summer flights to the Channel Islands.
Bus
The bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Queen's Rd) is 400m south of the castle. Follow Red Lion St into Stephen's St and then turn left onto... |
** The Peak District's most famous dessert is more rustic than the glazed versions from commercial bakeries. This pastry shell, spread with jam and topped with frangipane, a mixture of egg and ground almonds, was invented following an accidental misreading of a recipe around 1820. Both the Old Original Bakewell Pudding... |
Live Music
The National Indoor Arena ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %0121-780 4141; www.thenia.co.uk; King Edwards Rd), north of Brindley Pl, and the National Exhibition Centre Arena ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %0121-780 4141; www.thenec.co.uk; off the M42), near Birmingham Airport, host stadium-fillers from the world of rock and pop.
Su... |
) ; %01789-204016; www.shakespeare.org.uk; Cottage Lane, Shottery; adult/child £9.50/5.50; h9am-5pm mid-Mar–Oct)
Before tying the knot with Shakespeare, Anne Hathaway lived in Shottery, a mile west of the centre of Stratford, in this delightful thatched farmhouse. As well as period furniture, it has gorgeous garden... |
£5.50/2.50; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-5pm Sun)
The town's history museum is housed in a splendid Tudor building that served as King Charles II's headquarters during the Battle of Worcester. Engaging audioguides and interactive exhibits tell the story of Worcester during key periods in its history. A highlight is the '... |
and loops round through Eardisland and Kington, the southern terminus of the Mortimer Trail from Ludlow.
Pick up guides to exploring the villages by car, bus or bicycle at tourist offices.
### Ledbury
Pop 8860
Creaking with history and dotted with antique shops, Ledbury's crooked black-and-white streets zero in on... |
Tudor, Jacobean and Georgian houses, and locals say hello to everyone. This storybook English village also claims to have jump-started the modern Olympics.
### GRANDADDY OF THE MODERN OLYMPICS
All eyes were on London for the Olympic Games in 2012, but tiny Much Wenlock held its own Olympic Games in July the same yea... |
degree and worked as a Heritage Ranger at Sherwood Forest, then set up Ezekial Bone Tours to deconstruct the Robin Hood myths and focus on the historic building blocks.
**Did Robin Hood actually exist?** He's a composite hero: many real outlaws in the medieval period were woven together over time by minstrels and sto... |
Cross and Edinburgh.
Local buses link Lincolnshire's towns but services are slow and infrequent. Check the transport pages at www.lincolnshire.gov.uk, which also has cycling route info.
### LINCOLNSHIRE: BOMBER COUNTY
Following WWI the Royal Air Force (RAF) was formed in 1918 and two years later its college was est... |
has a cache of ancient churches, some dating back to Saxon times. Many open only from May to September; Northampton's tourist office has information including bus schedules.
#### Althorp
Althorp HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
( %01604-770107; www.spencerofalthorp.com; adult/child £18.50/11; h1-5pm Sun May–mid-Jul & Sep, 1... |
Inside an inviting retro-vintage dining room with exposed brick walls, Wonky Table features a slimmed-down day-time menu plus sandwiches such as warm goats cheese with caramelised onion and walnuts. But it really comes into its own at dinner with dishes including honey and balsamic goose breast, rosemary-crusted lamb ... |
this oddball town-centre hotel. Rooms are clean and spacious, parking's free, and there's a lively downstairs bar and restaurant.
Old Hall HotelHISTORIC HOTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %01298-22841; www.oldhallhotelbuxton.co.uk; The Square; s/d incl breakfast from £69/79; i W)
There's a tale to go with every creak ... |
new favourites.
West Gate Towers, CanterburyPETER BARRITT / GETTY IMAGES ©
### British Playwrights
British playwrights' words come to life on stage in London's West End and right across Britain: cities and even small towns have thriving theatres staging classic and cutting-edge productions.
Shakespeare's Birthplac... |
controversial York artist William Etty, who, back in the 1820s, was the first major British artist to specialise in painting nudes. Closed for redevelopment at the time of writing, the gallery is due to reopen sometime in 2015.
### THE YORK PASS
York PassTOURIST INFORMATION
(www.yorkpass.com; 1/2/3 days adult £36/4... |
Gromit, this crumbly white cheese is made in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales. Try it at the source, at Wensleydale Creamery in Hawes.
**Yorkshire rhubarb** Traditionally grown in the 'rhubarb triangle' near Wakefield, Yorkshire forced rhubarb (early season rhubarb grown in darkness) has achieved Protected Designatio... |
York (£11, 1¾ hours, hourly).
A **Train** There are regular trains from Hull (£15.10, 1½ hours, hourly), Leeds (£18, 1¼ hours, hourly) and York (£15, 50 minutes, hourly).
8Getting Around
Tiny Victorian-era funicular railways (per person 80p; h9.30am-5.30pm Feb-Oct) rattle up and down Scarborough's steep cliffs bet... |
hoods-bay.co.uk) is the end point of the Coast to Coast Walk. It has nothing to do with the hero of Sherwood Forest – the origin of its name is a mystery, and the locals call it Bay Town or just Bay. But there's no denying that this fishing village is one of the prettiest spots on the Yorkshire coast.
Leave your car a... |
. The woollen mills, factories and canals built to transport raw materials and finished products defined much of the county's landscape. But that's all in the past, and recent years have seen the transformation of this once hard-bitten area into quite the picture postcard.
Leeds and Bradford, two adjoining cities so b... |
ING
(www.nationaltrust.org.uk; adult/child £3.60/1.80; h11am-4pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun Mar-Oct, to 3pm Sat & Sun Nov-Feb; p) S
This renovated 19th-century cotton mill houses a visitor centre with exhibitions covering the industrial and social history of the mill and its former workers.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hebden Brid... |
once gave sanctuary to anyone escaping the law.
In the roof of the tower is a restored treadwheel crane, where workers ground around like hapless hamsters to lift the huge loads necessary to build a medieval church. Access to the roof is by guided tour only (per person £5).
St Mary's ChurchCHURCH
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; ... |
MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %0161-834 3210; www.samschophouse.co.uk; Back Pool Fold, Chapel Walks, off Cross St; mains £12.50-20; hnoon-3pm & 5-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 12.30-10pm Sat, noon-8pm Sun)
Arguably the city's top gastropub, Sam's is a Victorian classic that serves dishes straight out of a Dickens novel. The highlight is ... |
serves up good burgers, pies and a particularly tasty beer-battered haddock and chips. There's a heated outdoor terrace for alfresco drinks.
Upstairs at the GrillSTEAKHOUSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %01244-344883; www.upstairsatthegrill.co.uk; 70 Watergate St; mains £17-29; h5-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-11pm Fri-Sun) S
Thi... |
h11am-11pm)
A traditional pub with a beer garden; the fact that John and Cynthia Lennon liked coming here when they were students is completely incidental to its charms.
24 Kitchen StreetCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.facebook.com/24kitchenstreet; 24 Kitchen St; tickets £8-12; h9pm-4am Fri & Sat)
A multi-purpo... |
old** is on the site of an ancient monastery; a small shelter houses quite a good selection of stone crosses and ancient inscriptions.
It's no exaggeration to describe the Lady Isabella Laxey Wheel (MH; Mines Rd, Laxey; admission £5; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct), built in 1854 to pump water from a mine, as a 'great' wheel: it... |
OPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %015394-44080; www.the-angelinn.com; Helm Rd, Bowness-on-Windermere; mains £10.95-16.50; h11.30am-4pm & 5-9pm)
Bowness' gastropub is on a hummock behind the shoreline. Settle into a sofa and order a sharing platter, or go upmarket with a paupiette of plaice. The front lawn is the spot when th... |
who attended the school from 1779 to 1787.
The curriculum was punishing: 10 hours' study a day, covering weighty subjects such as Latin, Greek, geometry, science and rhetoric. Hardly surprising young William felt the urge to carve his name into a desk.
Upstairs is a small exhibition exploring the history of the scho... |
prison and meeting rooms at the **Moot Hall** (now occupied by the tourist office). Keswick's oddball museum is still closed for refurbishment; ask at the tourist office for the latest news.
Castlerigg Stone CircleMONUMENT
F
Set on a hilltop a mile east of town, this jaw-dropping stone circle consists of 48 stones... |
A chocoholics' delight: handmade chocolates and Kendal mint cake in the basement, plus umpteen varieties of hot chocolate in the upstairs cafe.
New MoonBISTRO
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %01539-729254; www.newmoonrestaurant.co.uk; 129 Highgate; mains £11.95-16.95; h11.30am-2.15pm & 5.30-9pm Tue-Sat)
A good bet for a pre-th... |
the coast, and cut deals with the prince bishops of Durham to ensure their loyalty. The new lords of Northumberland became very powerful because, as Marcher Lords (from the use of 'march' as a synonym of 'border'), they kept the Scots at bay.
Northumberland's reputation as a hotbed of rebellion intensified during the... |
the starting point of the scenic Tyne Valley Line west to Carlisle.
A **Alnmouth** (for bus connections to Alnwick) £9.70, 25 minutes, hourly
A **Berwick-upon-Tweed** £23.60, 45 minutes, hourly
A **Carlisle** £15.50, 1½ hours, hourly
A **Edinburgh** £48, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes
A **Hartlepool** £8.90, 45 minut... |
all its gruesome glory. The history of the Border Reivers – a group of clans who fought, kidnapped, blackmailed and killed each other in an effort to exercise control over a lawless tract of land along the Anglo-Scottish border throughout the 16th century – is also retold, along with tales of the punishments handed ou... |
churchyard opposite.
Her ornate wrought-iron and sandstone tomb was built tall so as to be visible to passing ships.
5Eating
oMizen HeadMODERN BRITISH
( %01668 214 254; www.mizenheadhotel.co.uk; Lucker Rd; mains £10-29; hnoon-2pm & 6-9pm; p W)
Since it opened in 2011, Bamburgh's best place to eat and/or stay i... |
own became a neglected slum.
Since 1987 the area has been radically redeveloped. The turning point came with the completion of a state-of-the-art tidal barrage in 1999.
Cardiff Bay
1Top Sights
1Wales Millennium CentreC2
1Sights
2Butetown History & Arts CentreB2
3Doctor Who ExperienceD5
4PierheadC3
5SeneddD3
6... |
wn Castle & High Sts)
The most decorative of the city's arcades houses Troutmark Books (secondhand and Welsh-language titles), Claire Grove Buttons (beads and buttons of every description), Madame Fromage and Coffee Barker.
Wyndham ArcadeSHOPPING ARCADE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; btwn St Mary St & Mill Lane)
This hist... |
isual displays that explore the industrial heritage of the region.
oBig Pit National Coal MuseumMINE, MUSEUM
( %029-2057 3650; www.museumwales.ac.uk; car park £3; h9.30am-5pm, guided tours 10am-3.30pm; p) F
The atmospheric Big Pit provides an opportunity to explore a real coal mine and get a taste of what life wa... |
wild' garden in the bluebell woods to the west.
At its heart stands a semirestored Elizabethan manor house, where you can watch a video on the estate's history and view temporary art exhibitions. The derelict kitchens have been converted into a glass-roofed atrium garden full of subtropical plants such as orchids, pal... |
10am-5pm)
Spectacular and forbidding Pembroke Castle is the oldest in West Wales. It was the home of the earls of Pembroke for more than 300 years and the birthplace of Henry VII, the first Tudor king. A fort was established here in 1093, but most of the present buildings date from the 12th and 13th centuries. It's a ... |
.
Lou Lou'sCAFE
(www.loulouscafenewport.com; Market St; mains £8; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
This friendly little cafe offers a range of organic soups, salads, baguettes, tarts and the obligatory indulgent cakes. It's a wonderfully relaxed place with cheerful service.
8Information
National Park Information Centre & Touri... |
A clear trail crosses the moorland that covers the southern approach to the Y Gyrn summit on your left. Once you reach a broad ridge, cross a stile and follow the trail down to the 2 **River Taf Fawr**. The rocky path then heads up the hillside along the right-hand side of the valley. Once you reach the 3 **steep esca... |
.uk; 44 Lion St; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
The most famous, and still the best; has a sizeable Anglo-Welsh literature section, and a Wales travel section.
Murder & MayhemBOOKS
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %01497-821613; 5 Lion St; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
Body outline on the floor, monsters on the ceiling, and sta... |
Wales distils the very essence of Welshness – just don't mention that to the folks in Cardiff.
### When to Go
May is the driest month and Llandudno celebrates the warming weather with its Victorian Extravaganza festival. May to September arguably gives you the best hiking weather, but the warmest months – July and A... |
Conditions can deteriorate quickly; check the weather forecast before setting out.
Snowdon by Rail
oSnowdon Mountain RailwayHERITAGE RAILWAY
( %0844 493 8120; www.snowdonrailway.co.uk; return diesel adult/child £27/18, steam £35/25; h9am-5pm mid-Mar–Oct)
Those industrious, railway-obsessed Victorians have gifted... |
The on-site museum has been recently refurbished. Segontium is located on a hill, about half a mile along the A4085 (heading towards Beddgelert).
GreenWood Forest ParkADVENTURE PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.greenwoodforestpark.co.uk; Y Felinheli; admission £12; h10am-5pm late Mar-Oct) S
This 7-hectare adventure park ... |
.40, 2¼ hours), and in the other direction to Caernarfon (£2.60, 40 minutes) and Bangor (£3.80, one hour). Snowdon Sherpa bus S97 goes to Beddgelert (£2, 20 minutes, eight daily Monday to Saturday) and Pen-y-Pass (£2, 40 minutes, three daily Monday to Saturday).
A daily National Express coach heads to London Victoria ... |
HOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %01492-860066; Hospital Rd)
One mile south of the town centre.
Llandudno Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %01492-577577; www.visitllandudno.org.uk; Mostyn St; h9.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, closed Sun Nov-Mar)
In the library building, with helpful staff, maps and plenty of br... |
romptu music sessions, mad-for-it clubbing and all-night parties, overindulgence, late nights and wandering home through cobbled streets at dawn.
All these superlatives come together in August at festival time, when it seems as if half the world descends on Edinburgh for one enormous party. If you can possibly manage ... |
carpets and dark-red walls. The gallery houses an important collection of European art from the Renaissance to post-Impressionism, with works by Verrocchio (Leonardo da Vinci's teacher), Tintoretto, Titian, Holbein, Rubens, Van Dyck, Vermeer, El Greco, Poussin, Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Turner, Constable, Monet, Pissar... |
refreshing power showers, and a breakfast menu that includes porridge with cream and maple syrup.
Ardmor HouseB&B
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %0131-554 4944; www.ardmorhouse.com; 74 Pilrig St; s £60-85, d £85-170; W)
The 'gay-owned, straight-friendly' Ardmor is a stylishly renovated Victorian house with five en suite bedro... |
ree** £54
A **Stirling** £8
It's also worth checking with Megabus ( %0900 1600 900; www.megabus.com) for cheap intercity bus fares (from as little as £5) from Edinburgh to Aberdeen, Dundee, Glasgow, Inverness and Perth.
There are various buses to Edinburgh from London and the rest of the UK.
Train
The main terminu... |
in the West End. Booking ahead is essential at weekends and in July and August.
#### City Centre
Euro HostelHOSTEL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %0141-222 2828; www.euro-hostels.co.uk; 318 Clyde St; dm £14-22, s £22-60, d £44-80; i W)
With hundreds of beds, this mammoth hostel is handily central. While it feels a bit ... |
* Delmonica's ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %0141-552 4803; www.delmonicas.co.uk; 68 Virginia St; hnoon-midnight) In the heart of the Pink Triangle, this is a popular bar, packed on weekday evenings but a pleasant spot for a quiet drink during the day. Drop in here before heading to the adjacent Polo Lounge, as they often... |
, and there are camping huts available (see www.glentressforestlodges.co.uk). In town, you can hire bikes to explore the region from Glentress Bikes ( %01721-729756; 20A Northgate; day hire £22 ).
4Sleeping & Eating
Tontine HotelHOTEL
( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %01721-720892; www.tontinehotel.com; High St; s £55, d £110-120... |
is held here in late September.
The Bookshop (www.the-bookshop.com; 17 North Main St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) claims to be Scotland's largest secondhand bookshop, and has a great collection of Scottish and regional titles.
A noble stone building in a quiet part of town, Hillcrest House ( %01988-402018; www.hillcrest-wigt... |
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %01786-450632; www.hermanns.co.uk; 58 Broad St; 3-course lunch/dinner £13/22, mains £12-23; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm; v)
This elegant Scottish-Austrian restaurant is a reliable and popular choice. The solid, conservative decor is oddly offset by magazine-spread skiing photos, but the food doesn'... |
is the focus of one of the biggest concentrations of prehistoric sites in Scotland. Burial cairns, standing stones, stone circles, hill forts and cup-and-ring-marked rocks litter the countryside. Within a 6-mile radius of Kilmartin village there are 25 sites with standing stones and over 100 rock carvings.
In the 6th... |
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