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Below is an instruction that contains a task. Write a response that appropriately completes the request.
### Instruction:
Generate an instruction for the following output:
b"Always use the ```prop()``` method to enable or disable elements when using jQuery (see below for why).\nIn your case, it would be:\n```$("#edit").click(function(event){\n event.preventDefault();\n $('.inputDisabled').prop("disabled", false); // Element(s) are now enabled.\n});\n```\njsFiddle example here.\n\n\nWhy use ```prop()``` when you could use ```attr()```/```removeAttr()``` to do this?\n\nBasically, ```prop()``` should be used when getting or setting properties (such as ```autoplay```, ```checked```, ```disabled``` and ```required``` amongst others).\nWhile what you want to do can technically be done using ```attr()```/```removeAttr()```, it doesn't mean it should be done - and can cause strange/problematic behaviour, as in this case.\n\n"The difference between attributes and properties can be important in\nspecific situations. Before jQuery 1.6, the ```.attr()``` method sometimes\ntook property values into account when retrieving some attributes,\nwhich could cause inconsistent behavior. As of jQuery 1.6, the ```.prop()```\nmethod provides a way to explicitly retrieve property values, while\n```.attr()``` retrieves attributes."\n"Properties generally affect the dynamic state of a DOM element without\nchanging the serialized HTML attribute. Examples include the ```value```\nproperty of input elements, the ```disabled``` property of inputs and\nbuttons, or the ```checked``` property of a checkbox. The ```.prop()``` method\nshould be used to set ```disabled``` and ```checked``` instead of the ```.attr()```\nmethod. The ```.val()``` method should be used for getting and setting\n```value```." - jQuery documentation for prop()\n\nPre-jQuery 3.0 (before 2016)\nThe reason why you should use ```prop``` over ```removeAttr()``` is that ```removeAttr()``` completely removes the ```disabled``` attribute itself - as this method would simply set the attribute to empty string, it would not trigger the event handler to be called. While in some cases, you might want to remove the attribute altogether, in this case you want to simply set it to false, which is what ```prop()``` does. Additionally, using ```prop()``` is the recommended way of updating properties in jQuery 1.6 and later, while using ```removeAttr()``` is only recommended when you want to remove an attribute, but not change its value.&
### Response:
b"Always use the ```prop()``` method to enable or disable elements when using jQuery (see below for why).\nIn your case, it would be:\n```$("#edit").click(function(event){\n event.preventDefault();\n $('.inputDisabled').prop("disabled", false); // Element(s) are now enabled.\n});\n```\njsFiddle example here.\n\n\nWhy use ```prop()``` when you could use ```attr()```/```removeAttr()``` to do this?\n\nBasically, ```prop()``` should be used when getting or setting properties (such as ```autoplay```, ```checked```, ```disabled``` and ```required``` amongst others).\nWhile what you want to do can technically be done using ```attr()```/```removeAttr()```, it doesn't mean it should be done - and can cause strange/problematic behaviour, as in this case.\n\n"The difference between attributes and properties can be important in\nspecific situations. Before jQuery 1.6, the ```.attr()``` method sometimes\ntook property values into account when retrieving some attributes,\nwhich could cause inconsistent behavior. As of jQuery 1.6, the ```.prop()```\nmethod provides a way to explicitly retrieve property values, while\n```.attr()``` retrieves attributes."\n"Properties generally affect the dynamic state of a DOM element without\nchanging the serialized HTML attribute. Examples include the ```value```\nproperty of input elements, the ```disabled``` property of inputs and\nbuttons, or the ```checked``` property of a checkbox. The ```.prop()``` method\nshould be used to set ```disabled``` and ```checked``` instead of the ```.attr()```\nmethod. The ```.val()``` method should be used for getting and setting\n```value```." - jQuery documentation for prop()\n\nPre-jQuery 3.0 (before 2016)\nThe reason why you should use ```prop``` over ```removeAttr()``` is that ```removeAttr()``` completely removes the ```disabled``` attribute itself - as this method would simply set the corresponding property name to ```false```:\n\nPrior to jQuery 3.0, using .removeAttr() on a boolean attribute such\nas checked, selected, or readonly would also set the corresponding\nnamed property to false. This behavior was required for ancient\nversions of Internet Explorer but is not correct for modern browsers\nbecause the attribute represents the initial value and the property\nrepresents the current (dynamic) value. - jQuery 3.0 Breaking Changes\n\nWhile ```prop()``` merely sets the property's underlying boolean value to false."</s>
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Below is an instruction that contains a task. Write a response that appropriately completes the request.
### Instruction:
Generate an instruction for the following output:
b"Slate is a stone that brings natural beauty into the home, and can be expensive to install. Regular maintenance cleaning can help preserve slate. But sometimes, it needs a deep clean or stain removal. A combination of regular cleaning and an occasional deep clean can help keep your slate in good condition.\n\n## Maintain a regular clean routine\n\n1. Sweep or remove dust and debris regularly. If you have slate floors, it is important to sweep daily or several times a week. Dust can damage slate over time by wearing away the surface. Keeping a regular cleaning schedule can prevent this damage. Use a dry broom or cloth for this step.\n2. Mix a solution of mild soap and water. For this, you will need a large bucket full of warm water. Mix in a little bit of soap. Dish soap works well for this.\n3. Mop or wipe the surface. Gently wipe the surface of the slate using small circular motions. This motion will loosen and lift dried-on dust and dirt. Use a soft mop, made from materials such as a microfiber. Stiff bristles can damage the stone. For vertical surfaces, clean from the bottom up. Slate should be cleaned with soap every 2-3 months.\n4. Rinse the slate with water. Rinse out your bucket and mop first, and then use them to rinse the slate with water. Soap buildup can attract more dirt, meaning you will have to clean your slate again.\n5. Dry the slate with a fresh, dry, soft cloth. This will remove any streaks from forming on the slate that may occur from air drying and prevent slipping on floor surfaces.\n\n\n## Clean deeply\n\n1. Sweep and mop the slate. Start with removing dry dust and debris by sweeping. Then mop or wipe the slate surface with a soft cloth or microfiber mop in soapy water. Allow the surface to dry.\n2. Apply teak oil to the slate. After the surface is completely dry, apply teak oil to a clean, dry cloth. Using small, circular motions, wipe the entire slate surface. Apply a thin layer of teak oil. Repeat this process until you reach the desired level of shine. Teak oil is a natural oil that will help protect the slate and keep it looking its best. It can also help to fill in any stains or scratches on the surface of the slate. It is important to note that teak oil can darken the slate over time, so you may want to test it
### Response:
b"Slate is a stone that brings natural beauty into the home, and can be expensive to install. Regular maintenance cleaning can help preserve slate. But sometimes, it needs a deep clean or stain removal. A combination of regular cleaning and an occasional deep clean can help keep your slate in good condition.\n\n## Maintain a regular clean routine\n\n1. Sweep or remove dust and debris regularly. If you have slate floors, it is important to sweep daily or several times a week. Dust can damage slate over time by wearing away the surface. Keeping a regular cleaning schedule can prevent this damage. Use a dry broom or cloth for this step.\n2. Mix a solution of mild soap and water. For this, you will need a large bucket full of warm water. Mix in a little bit of soap. Dish soap works well for this.\n3. Mop or wipe the surface. Gently wipe the surface of the slate using small circular motions. This motion will loosen and lift dried-on dust and dirt. Use a soft mop, made from materials such as a microfiber. Stiff bristles can damage the stone. For vertical surfaces, clean from the bottom up. Slate should be cleaned with soap every 2-3 months.\n4. Rinse the slate with water. Rinse out your bucket and mop first, and then use them to rinse the slate with water. Soap buildup can attract more dirt, meaning you will have to clean your slate again.\n5. Dry the slate with a fresh, dry, soft cloth. This will remove any streaks from forming on the slate that may occur from air drying and prevent slipping on floor surfaces.\n\n\n## Clean deeply\n\n1. Sweep and mop the slate. Start with removing dry dust and debris by sweeping. Then mop or wipe the slate surface with a soft cloth or microfiber mop in soapy water. Allow the surface to dry.\n2. Apply teak oil to the slate. After the surface is completely dry, apply teak oil to a clean, dry cloth. Using small, circular motions, apply cloth to the slate to cover it in a thin layer of teak oil. Designated slate oil is also available to buy at some hardware stores. However, it tends to be more expensive. Teak oil will achieve the same results.\n3. Clean grout between slate tiles. Mix a solution in a spray bottle that is 50% hydrogen peroxide and 50% water. You can find hydrogen peroxide at hardware stores or pharmacies. Spray the solution onto the grout. Avoid direct contact with the eyes when using hydrogen peroxide. Repeat this step as needed if the grout doesn't look clean after the first round.\n4. Reapply sealant as needed. Sealant protects slate from some everyday wear and tear, and is used on interior surfaces. Each sealant is different, so be sure to follow the specific instructions that come with it. In general, apply at least two layers and allow the sealant to dry completely between coats. Each sealant will come with instructions about how often to reapply it.\n\n\n## Remove a stain\n\n1. Mix a solution in a spray bottle that is 50% hydrogen peroxide and 50% water. Allow the mixture to sit for around 10 minutes.\n2. Spray the solution onto the stain and scrub. Using a soft-bristled brush or microfiber cloth, scrub the stain with small, circular motions. If the stain does not come out, a stronger solution may be needed.\n3. Mix a solution of hydrogen peroxide and baking soda. Add a few spoonfuls of baking soda to the peroxide until the mixture becomes bubbly. Wait until the bubbles stop.\n4. Apply the solution to the stain. Once the peroxide and baking soda mix has set, you can wipe it away with a clean cloth.\n"</s>
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Below is an instruction that contains a task. Write a response that appropriately completes the request.
### Instruction:
Generate an instruction for the following output:
b"## Help your female cat give birth and care for newborns (0 to 4 weeks)\n\n1. Provide a quiet place for the birth. Your female cat will chose a place where she feels safe to give birth. By all means, provide a large cardboard box, turn it on its side and line it with warm, dry bedding\xe2\x80\x93but don't be disappointed if she has other ideas. Instinct tells her to find a quiet concealed spot, such as under a bed, behind a sofa, or inside a kitchen cabinet. To learn more about helping your cat give birth, see this article.\n2. Do not disturb during the birth and first two days. The first 48 hours is a crucial time for the mother to bond with her kittens, so try not to disturb her. If she gives birth under your bed, leave her there. Moving the newborn kittens will distress the mother and in the worst scenario could cause her to reject them. Once she is firmly bonded, at around four or five days, if you feel it's necessary to move the kittens, do it then.\n3. Leave food, water, and cat litter in the room. The mother won't want to leave her kittens for long in the first two weeks of their life. Always put food and water within stretching distance of her nest, and if possible, offer a litter tray in the same room so that she can stay within sight and sound of the kittens. If food is in another room, some mothers chose to starve rather than leave their newborn kittens to find it.\n4. Feed the mother extra calories. She needs the extra calories to make milk for her kittens. Feed her kitten food, which has more calories than adult cat food.\n5. Let Mom do most of the clean-ups. Instinct helps the mother to keep the nest clean. The newborn kittens do not urinate or defecate on their own, so the mother has to lick their bottoms before and after feeding to stimulate elimination. This way she keeps the nest clean. Try to disturb the nest as little as possible. If the bedding becomes soiled, wait until Mom has finished cleaning it before changing it. If you are concerned about the mother's health, please consult a veterinarian. You can also consult a veterinarian if you are unsure if the kittens are healthy or if you notice any unusual behavior or signs of illness."
### Response:
b"## Help your female cat give birth and care for newborns (0 to 4 weeks)\n\n1. Provide a quiet
### Response:
b"## Help your female cat give birth and care for newborns (0 to 4 weeks)\n\n1. Provide a quiet place for the birth. Your female cat will chose a place where she feels safe to give birth. By all means, provide a large cardboard box, turn it on its side and line it with warm, dry bedding\xe2\x80\x93but don't be disappointed if she has other ideas. Instinct tells her to find a quiet concealed spot, such as under a bed, behind a sofa, or inside a kitchen cabinet. To learn more about helping your cat give birth, see this article.\n2. Do not disturb during the birth and first two days. The first 48 hours is a crucial time for the mother to bond with her kittens, so try not to disturb her. If she gives birth under your bed, leave her there. Moving the newborn kittens will distress the mother and in the worst scenario could cause her to reject them. Once she is firmly bonded, at around four or five days, if you feel it's necessary to move the kittens, do it then.\n3. Leave food, water, and cat litter in the room. The mother won't want to leave her kittens for long in the first two weeks of their life. Always put food and water within stretching distance of her nest, and if possible, offer a litter tray in the same room so that she can stay within sight and sound of the kittens. If food is in another room, some mothers chose to starve rather than leave their newborn kittens to find it.\n4. Feed the mother extra calories. She needs the extra calories to make milk for her kittens. Feed her kitten food, which has more calories than adult cat food.\n5. Let Mom do most of the clean-ups. Instinct helps the mother to keep the nest clean. The newborn kittens do not urinate or defecate on their own, so the mother has to lick their bottoms before and after feeding to stimulate elimination. This way she keeps the nest clean. Try to disturb the nest as little as possible. If the bedding becomes soiled, wait until Mom hops out for a toilet break herself to take out the dirty bedding and pop in clean.\n6. Check that the kittens are all nursing. If the mother cat is present, the kittens should nurse from her immediately after the last kitten is born. Newborn kittens will spend most of their time sleeping, waking up to nurse every two to three hours. If they do not appear to be nursing, or one kitten is being pushed away from the mother cat by its siblings, supplement with bottle feeding as described in Part 2.\n7. Consider spaying the mother cat. Having your mother cat spayed (removing her womb) after the kittens are done nursing (they should be weaned by about 8 weeks) is highly recommended by veterinarians and humane organizations. This helps prevent the suffering of unwanted kittens, and can also have some health benefits for the spayed cat. Be aware that a cat can potentially fall pregnant again as little as three to four days after giving birth, so keep her indoors to avoid this risk.\n8. Start to think about deworming the kittens. This can happen as early as two weeks if necessary. Consult a veterinarian for proper medication and dosing.\n\n\n## Care for orphan kitten (0 to 4 weeks)\n\n1. Feed the kittens a milk replacement. Powdered cat milk replacer (such as Cimicat) can be purchased from the vet clinic, major pet stores, or on the Internet. Another good milk replacer is KMR. This is the cat equivalent of infant formula, with the same composition as queen's (mother's) milk. The milk replacer has guidelines as to how much to feed in each meal. Do not feed cow's milk to the kitten as the lactose is likely to upset the kitten's stomach. If you have no milk replacement and a hungry kitten, offer some cooled boiled water in a dropper or syringe until you can get to the vet clinic or pet store. The water keeps the kitten hydrated and won't upset her tummy.\n2. Use a kitten feeding bottle with a specially designed kitten teat. You can purchase this at a vet clinic, a major pet store, or on the Internet. In an emergency use an eyedropper or a small syringe to drip the milk replacement into the kitten's mouth.\n3. Burp the kittens after each meal. You do this much as you would a baby: hold the kitten up straight against your shoulder, or place one hand under its belly. Gently pat and rub its back.\n4. Stimulate the kittens to eliminate. Before and after each feed, wipe the kitten's bottom with a paper towel or gauze pad soaked in warm water. This stimulates the kitten to go to the toilet, which otherwise she would not do. Hold the kitten over a litter box and use the towel to rub the kitten's genitals and anal region after every meal. Continue to do this until the urination and defecation is over (when nothing else is coming out). Rub in just one direction\xe2\x80\x93rubbing back and forth is irritating. Cotton balls or pads are not recommended because they shed.\n5. Look for signs of healthy elimination. Urine should be pale yellow and odorless, and stools should be yellowish-brown, formed in tiny logs. Dark, pungent urine is a sign of dehydration; green stool may be a sign of over-feeding, while white stool could indicate malabsorption, a serious problem. Call your vet if you have any concerns. If the kitten does not urinate for 12 hours, take her to the vet's immediately. Most kittens poop once a day, but individual schedules vary. Take her to the vet's if she hasn't pooped in more than two days.\n6. Follow the kittens' meal times. In the first two weeks of life the kitten feeds every two to three hours around the clock. The kitten will tell you she is hungry by crying and wriggling around as if hunting for a nipple. A full kitten often falls asleep while suckling and has a rounded belly. After two weeks, the feeds can be stretched out to to every three to four hours, with a gap of six hours overnight.\n7. Keep the kittens warm with a covered heating pad. Neonatal kittens (under two weeks of age) cannot regulate their body temperature and usually keep warm by snuggling up to their mother. You can simulate this situation by keeping them on a heated pad designed for puppies or kittens. Avoid putting them in direct contact with the pad: if the kitten is in direct contact with the heat pad, she might be at risk of either local burns or overheating. However, these pads usually come in a fleece cover so it shouldn't be a problem, except for when you remove the cover for washing, in which case substitute a towel. As the kitten gets older (over two weeks), she is able to move away from the heat if she gets too hot.\n8. Never feed a cold kitten. If a kitten's body feels cold, you need to warm her up gradually. A kitten is cold if her ears and/or the pads of her feet feel chilly to the touch. Put your finger in her mouth: if it feels cold, the kitten's body temperature is too low, which can be life-threatening. Warm her up slowly by wrapping her in a fleece blanket and holding her next to your body, rubbing her gently with your hands for one to two hours.\n9. Learn more about taking care of orphaned kittens. You can start with this article. Contact a veterinarian for information and suggestions. Your vet can also provide vaccinations against common diseases and deworm the kittens. Orphaned kittens may be dewormed starting at two weeks, and, depending on their situation, can be vaccinated starting anywhere from two to eight weeks. They may have weaker immune systems because, unlike other kittens, they don't get the antibodies from their mother's milk.\n\n\n## Wean and socialize your kitten (4 - 8 weeks)\n\n1. Start to leave out extra kitten food. If Mom's around, the weaning process (switching from mother's milk to solid food) happens naturally from about four weeks. At this point, Mom gets tired of the kittens chewing on her teats and starts to spend time apart from them. In turn, the hungry kittens investigate food options around them and usually discover Mom's food. As the kittens start to take mouthfuls of her food, they begin the weaning process.\n2. Provide water. Kittens do not need water until they start weaning, roughly around four weeks old. Any kitten above this age, however, should have constant access to a full water bowl. Change this water whenever it gets dirty (as it tends to if kittens step and/or poop in the bowl).\n3. Put down kitten food for hand-reared kittens. If you've been bottle-feeding the kittens yourself, the weaning process is similar. It sometimes helps to put some milk-replacer in a saucer and put your finger just beneath the surface to teach the kitten to lap first. Then, it's a matter of mashing up some wet kitten food with the milk-replacer to make a porridge for the kitten to lap. As she gets the hang of that you can thicken up the porridge until she's happily taking most of her calories in solid form.\n4. Socialize your kittens by introducing them to new things. Socialization is crucial during the three-to-nine-week window. From two to three weeks of age, handle the kittens as much as possible every day. Introduce them to different sights and sounds, such as the vacuum cleaner, hair dryer, men with beards, children . . . anything you can think of. During this six-week window the kitten is most open to new experiences, and what she encounters now she will accept without question as an adult, making her into a happy, well-adjusted and sociable cat. Use cat toys, balls, string, or other objects to play with them, but don't use objects small enough for them to swallow. (Note that cats may eat string or yarn if left unsupervised, so only allow this in your interactive play. It's a potential choking hazard.) Don't teach your kittens that human fingers and hands are toys, or the kitten may continue to bite and scratch them as an adult.\n5. Provide non-clumping litter. Choose a spot for the litter box carefully, as once used to it, the kittens will probably continue to use that spot. If litter-training the kittens yourself, simply place the kittens there after each meal, or whenever a kitten starts to crouch and scratch the floor in preparation for pooping. Clean the litter box at least once a day, or the kittens may stop using it. Choose a box with low sides so it's easy for the kittens to get in and out. Avoid clumping litter, as kittens may eat the clumps, which could potentially harm their digestion. If a kitten seems like it doesn't want to stay in the litter box, gently take its paws and imitate digging in the litter. Then, provide the kitten with privacy so it can dig a hole, do its business, and cover it up with some litter.\n6. Keep the cat inside until it has all its shots. Once your veterinarian allows it, you can let the cat outside to explore. Make sure you keep a close watch on it until you're sure it knows to return home. Let the kitten outside when it's a bit hungry. Entice it back in by calling its name and showing it food. This will remind your kitten that while outdoors is fun, its final destination will always be your home.\n7. Give kittens away responsibly. If selling or giving away the kittens, you should wait until they are at least eight weeks old, but twelve weeks old is preferred. Take them to a vet and start their shots before they leave you. Always follow-up with the new owners to make sure the kitten is getting her shots and is scheduled to be spayed or neutered. Exchange phone numbers with the new owners so you can confirm your kitten is in good hands, or in case the owners want to return her (at least you can help her find another home).\n\n\n## Take care of an adopt kitten (8 weeks and beyond)\n\n1. Ask the breeder or shelter for a blanket that smells like the kitten's mother and siblings. These smells help to give the kitten comfort while she settles into her new home.\n2. Ask what kind of food the kitten's been eating. Provide this for the first few days so that you don't make too many changes at once. When the kitten has settled in, this is your chance to change her food to one of your choosing, though do it gradually: replace a small quantity of her former food with the new food, increasing the amount slowly over the course of a week. If the kitten is eating dry kibble, leave a bowl out all day. If she is eating wet food, give her small meals every six hours. Continue to feed kitten food, not adult cat food, until one year of age.\n3. Provide water. Kittens above four weeks of age need water, so clean water should always be available. Cats tend to be more interested in water that is not next to their food bowl. Encourage drinking by placing water bowls in different spots through the house.\n4. Introduce the kitten to your house slowly. Expose the kitten to just one room initially: the whole house will be too overwhelming on the first day. Set up a bed (preferably one that has sides and a roof so the kitten feels safe in a nest), with food and water in one corner of the room, and a litter tray in the opposite corner. Show the kitten where her facilities are, and then leave her to rest. It's been a big day for the little kitten so let her adjust and sleep for a few hours.\n5. Give the kitten as much attention as you can. Spend as much time as possible grooming, playing, fussing and interacting with the kitten. This helps her to grow into a well-socialized, friendly adult.\n6. Keep the kitten and your possessions safe. Keep electrical cords and devices out of the kitten's reach to avoid her chewing on them. Child locks may be a wise investment for low cabinets if you have a particularly inquisitive kitten.\n7. Plan a vet visit. At nine weeks old the kitten can have her first vaccination. This is the ideal time for a vet to examine her, worm her and start vaccinations. The basic kitten vaccine includes protection against cat flu and infectious enteritis. There is also the option to vaccinate against feline leukemia.\n"</s>
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Below is an instruction that contains a task. Write a response that appropriately completes the request.
### Instruction:
What is the purpose of the letter?
Answer:
The purpose of the letter is to express the writer's emotions and gratitude towards the reader, as they prepare to leave this world. The writer wants to let the reader know that they have been a great blessing in their life and that they will always cherish the memories they shared together. The letter also serves as a reminder to the reader to cherish life and the people in their life, and to
### Response:
b'My dear [Name],\n\nAs I write this letter, I am filled with a mix of emotions - sadness, regret, and gratitude. Sadness that I will soon be leaving this world and will no longer be able to share in the joys and challenges of life with you. Regret that there are things I wish I had said and done differently, and that there are moments that I will miss. But most of all, gratitude that I have had the privilege of knowing you and sharing in your life.\n\nI want you to know that you have been one of the greatest blessings in my life. Your love, kindness, and support have sustained me through some of my darkest moments, and your laughter and joy have brought light and happiness to my life. I have cherished every moment we have spent together, and I will carry the memories of our time together with me always.\n\nAs I prepare to leave this world, I want you to know that I am at peace. I am grateful for the life I have lived and for the people I have met along the way. I am grateful for the love and friendship you have shown me, and for the many ways you have enriched my life.\n\nI know that my passing will bring sadness and grief, but I hope that in time, you will find comfort in the memories we shared and in the knowledge that I loved you deeply. Remember that life is precious and that every moment is a gift. Live fully, love deeply, and cherish the people in your life.\n\nWith love and gratitude,\n\n[Your Name]'</s>
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Below is an instruction that contains a task. Write a response that appropriately completes the request.
### Instruction:
Generate an instruction for the following output:
b'## Personal holiday organization\n\n1. Plan for sleep. One of the dangers of the holiday season is that you schedule too much and don\'t budget enough time for sleep and exercise. These 2 practices can cut your stress level in half and make it easier to stay on task during your holiday rush. It is common to reduce your exercise time slightly during the holidays, but try to get about 30 minutes of mid-intensity cardiovascular exercise 5 times per week. Don\'t not cut down on your sleep; aim for 8 hours per night. Moderate your alcohol intake. Although it may seem like a sedative, it can actually prevent you from getting deep sleep. Stop after a few drinks to avoid losing your energy the next day.\n2. Set a budget 2 months before the holidays. Take into account how much you can afford and then split the money between cards, postage stamps, gifts, decorations, clothing, food and even a party. Plan an overage of 10 percent in your budget. This means all of your needs should add up to 90 percent of the money you have for the holidays.\n3. Sit down with your family 6 weeks before the holiday and ask for help. If you love control, this may be hard to do; however, it will take a load off your shoulders and make everyone feel like the holidays don\'t come together magically.\n4. Discuss the possibility of doing a low-gift giving Christmas or a charity project with your family. If your budget is tight, then giving 1 present or buying 1 big present for the whole family might be better. Studies have also shown that charity projects can help your emotional health during stressful times.\n5. Book travel plans 3 or more months before the holidays. Ticket prices tend to go up right before the holidays. Make sure you have lower travel costs and less stress associated with travel if you and your children or parents have their plans figured out in advance.\n6. Use a calendar that everyone can see, online or in the house. Place all commitments, deadlines, family nights and tasks on it so that everyone can refer back to it over the month of December.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\
### Response:
b'## Personal holiday organization\n\n1. Plan for sleep. One of the dangers of the holiday season is that you schedule too much and don\'t budget enough time for sleep and exercise. These 2 practices can cut your stress level in half and make it easier to stay on task during your holiday rush. It is common to reduce your exercise time slightly during the holidays, but try to get about 30 minutes of mid-intensity cardiovascular exercise 5 times per week. Don\'t not cut down on your sleep; aim for 8 hours per night. Moderate your alcohol intake. Although it may seem like a sedative, it can actually prevent you from getting deep sleep. Stop after a few drinks to avoid losing your energy the next day.\n2. Set a budget 2 months before the holidays. Take into account how much you can afford and then split the money between cards, postage stamps, gifts, decorations, clothing, food and even a party. Plan an overage of 10 percent in your budget. This means all of your needs should add up to 90 percent of the money you have for the holidays.\n3. Sit down with your family 6 weeks before the holiday and ask for help. If you love control, this may be hard to do; however, it will take a load off your shoulders and make everyone feel like the holidays don\'t come together magically.\n4. Discuss the possibility of doing a low-gift giving Christmas or a charity project with your family. If your budget is tight, then giving 1 present or buying 1 big present for the whole family might be better. Studies have also shown that charity projects can help your emotional health during stressful times.\n5. Book travel plans 3 or more months before the holidays. Ticket prices tend to go up right before the holidays. Make sure you have lower travel costs and less stress associated with travel if you and your children or parents have their plans figured out in advance.\n6. Use a calendar that everyone can see, online or in the house. Place all commitments, deadlines, family nights and tasks on it so that everyone can refer back to it over the month of December.\n\n\n## Holiday shop organization\n\n1. Schedule shopping intelligently rather than in blocks. The following are good tips that make holiday shopping more effective and quick:\n\t* Buy things throughout the year, whenever you see something that is ideal for someone. You provide more thoughtful gifts if they are catered to the person, rather than bought frantically the month before. Store your gifts in 1 place in your house and come back to your gift hiding place 6 weeks before Chanukah or Christmas. Take a few hours off work during mid-week once the holiday sales start. You will miss the rush and have a more calm shopping experience. Shop in small spurts online. Getting online for hours can be a waste of time. Keep a list in your purse of things you are looking for, and add to it. Wait until you have 2 or 3 things you know you want to search for and do your power shopping. Open 3 browser tabs and compare prices on Amazon, Overtock.com and a Google Shopping page. Don\'t be afraid to give gift certificates. Many stores, massage parlors, movie theaters and more provide gift certificates. Think of something that your friends or family will find truly valuable over a product you are unsure they will like.\n2. Set up a wrapping station on a table in late November or early December. Wrap gifts as soon as you bring them home. This will remove the chance that children will find their gifts and it will allow you to get both shopping and wrapping done at a slow and steady pace.\n3. Aim to finish your shopping and wrapping by December 15th. Schedule your time accordingly, so that you can enjoy the holidays and be ready for any last-minute changes.\n\n\n## Holiday cook organization\n\n1. Clean your kitchen from top to bottom before attempting holiday baking or cooking. Try to do this in late November or early December. Rearrange things that overnight guests will need, such as coffee and cereal, in an easy to reach cupboard and create a baking cupboard.\n2. Stock up on baking supplies early in the season. Buy flour, sugar and spices at warehouse stores so that you don\'t have to make late night runs to the supermarket. Buy some pre-made pie crusts and cookies to keep around in case you don\'t have time to do everything from scratch.\n3. Bake throughout the holiday season. Clear out your freezer, and then create a cooking to do list that allows you to make and freeze items every week. For example, bake 1 sweet, such as cookies or candy, and prepare 1 side dish in preparation. Cover and label the dishes very well before you stack them on a freezer. For example, "Sweet Potatoes. Thaw and bake at 350 for 30 minutes."\n4. Plan a holiday potluck party instead of baking all of the food. This is a great way to lower your budget and have fun. Allow people to bring desserts, side dishes or relish to family dinners as well; they understand your kitchen is very full.\n'</s>
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