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4428
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yago
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1
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https://decider.com/2023/08/18/george-stephanopoulos-ali-wentworth-good-morning-america-appearance/
|
en
|
George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth Praised as the “Cutest Couple Ever” During Joint Appearance on ‘GMA’
|
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[
"Ali Wentworth",
"George Stephanopoulos",
"news",
"robin roberts"
] | null |
[
"Samantha Nungesser"
] |
2023-08-18T00:00:00
|
George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth were the definition of couple goals on a recent episode of 'Good Morning America.'
|
en
|
Decider
|
https://decider.com/2023/08/18/george-stephanopoulos-ali-wentworth-good-morning-america-appearance/
|
George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth were the definition of couple goals on a recent episode of Good Morning America. In a clip sent into the show from their couch, the duo sported cozy loungewear as they congratulated Robin Roberts on her impending nuptials.
Wentworth — who met the television host on a blind date in 2001 and married him later that same year — kicked off the video with a cheeky message to the GMA anchor and her fiancé, Amber Laign.
“Robin and Amber, congratulations. You are about to embark on such an incredibly beautiful journey,” Wentworth began, before quipping, “We’ve been married for over 64 years and I have to say every day is unicorns and rainbows.”
While the comedian was making her jokes, her husband was staring lovingly at her, before letting out a laugh at her sarcastic comment. He ended the video by telling Roberts, “We love you. I know it was worth the wait. Congratulations.”
The moment was later posted to GMA’s Instagram account, where many fans of the show took to the comments section to express their love for the longtime married couple.
“I love the way George and Ali are with each other. Check it out people, that is what love looks like.❤️❤️,” one wrote, while another added, “That was so funny and sweet. I adore George and Ali.”
A third person said, “George already knew Ali was going to say something crazy!” before someone else echoed, “Cutest couple ever. He never knows what she is going to say, he just rolls with whatever it is!! Just love them❤️🥰♥️”
“I love how he looks at her 🥹,” another commented, while a fifth social media user added, “Unicorns and rainbows…😂 They are so funny and cute together!”
Their sweet message comes amid a week filled with wedding celebrations for Roberts — who is set to marry Laign this September, 18 years after they first met on a blind date in 2005. On Wednesday morning’s (Aug. 17) episode of the morning talk show, Roberts’ ABC family (and then some) transformed the studio into a beach-themed bachelorette party.
Roberts first announced the news of her engagement on GMA in January of this year.
“I’m hesitating because I haven’t said it out loud yet. I’m saying yes to marriage,” she revealed at the time. “We’re getting married this year. It’s something we’ve talked about but we had put it off. But it was just — and it is staying yes to that and that next chapter. I can’t believe I just said that.”
Good Morning America airs every weekday at 7/6c on ABC.
|
|||||
4428
|
yago
|
2
| 8
|
https://soaps.sheknows.com/soaps/news/736996/george-stephanopoulos-wife/
|
en
|
George Stephanopoulus Proposed to His Wife After Just Two Months of Dating — Get to Know the GMA Host’s Longtime Love
|
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] | null |
[
"Kelsey Lentz"
] |
2024-07-05T21:00:09+00:00
|
Who is George Stephanopoulos' wife? Here's everything to know about the GMA host's marriage.
|
en
|
Soaps.com
|
https://soaps.sheknows.com/soaps/news/736996/george-stephanopoulos-wife/
|
George Stephanopoulos has gone from the White House to Good Morning America, and his supportive wife has been by his side every step of the way. So, who is George Stephanopoulos’ wife? Here’s everything to know about the GMA host’s decades-long marriage and family life.
Who is George Stephanopoulos’ wife?
George Stephanopoulos is married to actress and comedian Ali Wentworth, who is best known for starring on the FOX sketch comedy series In Living Color. Her other credits include Seinfeld, Headcase, Nightcap and Felicity. Like her husband, Wentworth has also dabbled in unscripted television, serving as a co-host of the syndicated talk show Living It Up! with Ali & Jack and a guest host on Live with Kelly and Ryan, The Talk and The View.
Stephanopoulos and Wentworth had a whirlwind romance. The pair met in 2001 when they were set up on a blind date by mutual friends. “I had a birthday party, all girls, and everyone said, ‘You know, you have to start dating, Ali.’ And I said, ‘You know what, I live in L.A., it’s either agents or actors — I’m not interested,'” Wentworth recalled during a 2017 appearance on The Tonight Show. “One of them said, ‘You should go out with my old boyfriend, George Stephanopoulos.’ And I said, ‘No, thank you.'”
She continued: “I came in, we sat down, we both ordered the crab salad,” she said. “And, I’m telling you, by the end of lunch, [it was] done.” Stephanopoulos, for his part, also knew immediately that Wentworth was the one. “You know how when you go on a date and the first 15 minutes are on automatic pilot? About 15 minutes in, she just leaned in and said something, and we were suddenly in another place, in another universe, immediately,” he told the New York Times during a November 2001 interview. “We went from strangers to friends to being in love in days.”
After just two months of dating, the couple got engaged in June 2001. They wasted no time in tying the knot, either, and got married that November. Stephanopoulos and Wentworth went on to welcome daughter, Elliott Anastasia, on Sept. 9, 2002, and daughter Harper Andrea, on June 2, 2005.
In December 2009, Stephanopoulos was offered Diane Sawyer’s position on Good Morning America following her move to World News. Stephanopoulos and Wentworth then relocated their family from Washington, D.C. to New York City so that he could take the job.
In addition to supporting each other professionally, the pair have also been there for one another during personal challenges. In June 2024, Stephanopoulos lost his father, Reverend Robert George Stephanopoulos. Wentworth dedicated a sweet tribute to her father-in-law on Instagram, writing alongside several photos from her and her husband’s wedding: “Reverend Robert George Stephanopoulos, PhD, Dean Emeritus Archdiocesan Cathedral of the Holy Trinity passed away on June 19th. He was my father-in-law and I loved him dearly. He married us. He laughed with us. He debated our daughters. He praised my Thanksgiving turkey. He loved ice cream. He was everyone’s council. He married or baptized almost every Greek on the eastern seaboard. He was held in the highest regard. He will be missed by so many. Sagapo Father Bob.”
As for the secret to the long-lasting marriage, Wentworth credits their commitment to each other. “People always say, ‘Oh you have to have a sense of humor.’ But I always say, you just have to really come to terms with this idea that ‘I’m going to be with this person forever,’” she told PEOPLE in 2018. “Not, ‘Oh I can always get a divorce or have an affair.’ You have to just go, ‘We’re in it until a nurse comes in and changes our diapers and wipes the drool off our faces.’ That makes the fights less scary.”
Stephanopoulos added that spending quality time together and having a “no phones at the dinner table” rule has been the key to their marital bliss.
|
|||||
4428
|
yago
|
1
| 57
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https://www.closerweekly.com/posts/george-stephanopoulos-wife-ali-wentworth-cutest-photos/
|
en
|
George Stephanopoulos, Wife Ali Wentworth Cutest Photos
|
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[
"Samantha Agate"
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2023-04-05T21:16:46+00:00
|
GMA’s George Stephanopoulos married his wife, Ali Wentworth, in 2001. See their cutest photos together over the years.
|
en
|
Closer Weekly
|
https://www.closerweekly.com/posts/george-stephanopoulos-wife-ali-wentworth-cutest-photos/
|
There’s nothing sweeter than the way George Stephanopoulos and his wife, Ali Wentworth, show their love for each other. The couple are always proving how strong their connection is by posing for photos together during their romantic outings.
George and Ali’s romance got off to a hot start. The couple only dated for two months before getting engaged. Initially, Ali was hesitant to go on a date with the TV personality in the first place.
“I had a birthday party, all girls, and everyone said, ‘You know, you have to start dating, Ali,’” the podcast host recalled during an August 2017 appearance on The Tonight Show. “And I said, ‘You know what, I live in L.A., it’s either agents or actors — I’m not interested. … And one of them said, ‘You should go out with my old boyfriend, George Stephanopoulos.’ And I said, ‘No, thank you.’”
Eventually, she decided to go out for lunch with George and knew by the end of the date that he was The One. The Good Morning America anchor and the comedian got married in November 2001 at the Greek Orthodox Archdiocesan Cathedral of the Holy Trinity in New York City.
“One of my favorite memories from that event was watching these circles of people we loved, arm-in-arm, kicking their legs up to Greek music — the director Mike Nichols next to George’s grandmother next to an 8-year-old flower girl next to my college roommate,” Ali recalled of the wedding during a February 2023 interview with People.
In September 2002, the lovebirds welcomed their first child together, daughter Elliott. Their second daughter, Harper, arrived in June 2005. More than a decade after they exchanged vows, the pair still got butterflies when they were around each other.
“We’ve been married 10 years and we have two kids,” the In Living Color alum said during a 2012 appearance on Good Morning America. “I’m telling you, my heart skips a beat when he walks in the door.”
Since becoming parents and raising their two daughters in NYC, Ali revealed that her kids definitely take after her when it comes to their humor and wit.
“I have two girls. George is the only guy in the house. For some reason, he gets beat up constantly,” she said during a December 2016 appearance on Harry. “He is always wrong. He is an idiot. He is a loser but in a loving way.”
The mom of two continued, “Basically, my children get to say it for me, so I don’t have to say it,” adding, “But it’s really funny. He could go off and win a Peabody Award, and as soon as he comes in, the girls are like, ‘I can’t believe you wore that tie.’”
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yago
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https://people.com/ali-wentworth-pokes-fun-george-stephanopoulos-22nd-anniversary-post-8404804
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en
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Ali Wentworth Pokes Fun at George Stephanopoulos in 22nd Anniversary Post
|
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] |
[] |
[] |
[
""
] | null |
[
"Erin Clack",
"www.facebook.com"
] |
2023-11-20T13:10:41.693000-05:00
|
Ali Wentworth delivered a special video message to husband George Stephanopoulos while he was live on 'Good Morning America' on Monday, wishing him a happy 22nd wedding anniversary. The comedian poked fun at having to wake up alone due to Stephanopoulos' early-morning TV job.
|
en
|
/favicon.ico
|
Peoplemag
|
https://people.com/ali-wentworth-pokes-fun-george-stephanopoulos-22nd-anniversary-post-8404804
|
Ali Wentworth is having a little fun with her husband George Stephanopoulos on their 22nd wedding anniversary!
In honor of the occasion on Monday, the actress and comedian, 58, delivered a special video message to the Good Morning America co-host, 62, while he was live on-air. Before the clip played, Stephanopoulos appeared to be anticipating a touching message from his wife — but instead, Wentworth took a playful jab at him — and his early-morning job.
"Happy anniversary, honey," Wentworth said in the video, while dressed in pajamas and lying in bed. "Twenty-two years … twenty-two years of waking up on our anniversary alone in bed — only to watch you interview some beautiful actress on TV."
As Wentworth's video played, a split screen captured Stephanopoulos on the set, at first shaking his head and then laughing at his wife's sassy message.
"I love you. Come home!" she added as the video ended.
Wentworth and GMA both shared the video on their respective Instagram pages. "Happy 22nd anniversary to our very own @gstephanopoulos and @therealaliwentworth! Thanks to Ali’s surprise anniversary message, we all laughed AND cried before 9am," GMA's caption read.
During Monday's episode, Stephanopoulos went on to share that he had tried to call Wentworth earlier that morning — presumably to wish her a happy anniversary — but she didn't pick up. "Now I know why," he said, referring to her sneaky surprise.
"I'm tearing up a bit. Twenty-two years ago today," a visibly emotional Stephanopoulos noted as he reflected on the marriage milestone.
In a funny twist to the story, the former White House Communications Director also revealed that when he popped the question to Wentworth, she was asleep. "I took her to Greece so she sort of knew it was coming, but it was while she was taking a nap," he recounted. "And she did say yes when she woke up."
Never miss a story — sign up for PEOPLE's free daily newsletter to stay up-to-date on the best of what PEOPLE has to offer, from juicy celebrity news to compelling human interest stories.
The pair — who shares two children, Elliott, 21, and Harper, 18 — met after being set up by a mutual friend. During a 2017 appearance on The Tonight Show, Wentworth admitted that she was initially a bit reluctant to go on the blind date.
"I had a birthday party, all girls, and everyone said, 'You know, you have to start dating, Ali.' And I said, 'You know what, I live in L.A., it's either agents or actors — I'm not interested.' And one of them said, 'You should go out with my old boyfriend, George Stephanopoulos.' And I said, 'No, thank you,'" she recalled.
However, she was eventually swayed, thinking she would at least get "a good dinner party story" out of the date. As it turned out, the two sparked an instant connection, and the rest, as they say, is history.
"I came in, we sat down, we both ordered the crab salad. And, I'm telling you, by the end of lunch, [it was] done," she continued. "We were engaged two months later. Married six months later."
The couple tied the knot in 2001 in a traditional Greek wedding held in New York City. Earlier this year, Wentworth told PEOPLE the nuptials included lots of very lively Greek dancing.
"One of my favorite memories from that event was watching these circles of people we loved, arm-in-arm, kicking their legs up to Greek music — the director Mike Nichols next to George's grandmother next to an 8-year-old flower girl next to my college roommate," she reminisced.
In addition to her lighthearted video message on Monday, Wentworth also marked her anniversary with Stephanopoulos by sharing a photo from their wedding on Instagram, capturing the pair cutting an elaborate cake decorated with seashells.
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https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/ali-wentworth-george-stephanopoulos-apartment-article
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en
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Ali Wentworth and George Stephanopoulos's Home in New York
|
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2012-02-29T19:00:00-05:00
|
Ali Wentworth and George Stephanopoulos relocated to a home in New York with the help of their favorite designer, Michael S. Smith
|
en
|
https://www.architecturaldigest.com/verso/static/architectural-digest/assets/favicon.ico
|
Architectural Digest
|
https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/ali-wentworth-george-stephanopoulos-apartment-article
|
This article originally appeared in the March 2012 issue of Architectural Digest.
Speaking before thousands doesn’t cause me an ounce of anxiety. But moving? I’m on the floor, panic-stricken. Two years ago my husband, George Stephanopoulos, and I had finally settled into the Colonial Revival house in Washington, D.C., that we’d bought in 2005. There was no more trim to paint, and we had enough throw pillows to cushion all of Uzbekistan. Having just signed a book deal with HarperCollins [Ali in Wonderland is in stores now], I was spending my days in sweatpants, eating Milk Duds in my home office. Then George got the call confirming that he would be taking over as coanchor of *Good Morning America—*which meant I would have to quickly relocate him, our daughters, Elliott and Harper, and myself to New York City. I didn’t leave my bed for days, except to get more Milk Duds.
I come from a long line of strong women—my grandmother built a boat out of yak hides and crossed China’s Yellow River—so surely I could move my family, two dachshunds included, to Manhattan. No more than a tiny percentage of our possessions would fit into a New York apartment, but that was just as well: The only things worth saving, I decided, were photographs, some cherished works of art, and maybe a hot plate. Excited at the prospect of a clean slate, I wondered how we could evolve beyond our humble domicile toward a more sophisticated home.
Enter decorator [Michael S. Smith]https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/michael-s-smith-james-costos-palm-springs-home-article). I had always worshipped his designs and studied his monographs as though they were religious manuscripts. A mutual friend had introduced us when Michael was in D.C. outfitting the Obama White House, and we became instant confidants, sharing sandwiches as I tagged along with him to antiques shops. Our e-mails are always in shorthand, and one day an exchange went:
“George and I are definitely moving to New York.”
“Great! I’ll do your apartment.”
(Cue Handel’s “Hallelujah Chorus.”)
1 / 9
When I first brought Michael to see our new place—a three-bedroom prewar on the Upper East Side—it had the sad visage of a lady stripped of all her makeup and jewelry. Hangers were strewn on the floor; rectangles of dirt remained where rugs had been. He walked around, in his cashmere jacket and ironed jeans, knocking on walls and cabinetry. It might not have been an Arabian palace, but the floor plan required no changes. George and I offered no direction at all, happy to have Michael wave his traditionalist magic wand. Sure enough, he did the equivalent: pulled out his cell phone, called his office, and started executing a plan.
Once our bare necessities had arrived from D.C., I got down to business on my writing, breaking to watch wallpaper and light fixtures being installed around me. It was a delightful jolt, during these stationary hours, to get Michael’s e-mails full of furniture and rug options. Against my better judgment I sent back ideas of my own, only to be met with such fertile responses as, “Oh, for your dorm room?” When you work with a prolific aesthete, I realized, it’s best to keep your pedestrian two cents to yourself and stick to more familiar topics, like soup and Labradoodles.
The 14th chapter of my book was nearly complete the day Michael rented a crane to hoist large furniture from the street through the living room window. Not being a native New Yorker, this was a first for me. In came a sectional sofa covered in rust-color velvet, a Swedish settee, and a pair of George II–style mahogany bookcases. When a mysterious piece of lacquer chinoiserie floated up, I stared at it blankly and asked, “Michael, what is this for? Dim sum?” The next day he organized our books and blue-and-white pottery on what I now know to be a pagoda étagère. It has become a spectacular showpiece in our foyer, which was tiled with stone in a graphic mosaic pattern of Michael’s design.
When the apartment was done, after just six months, the results left me in awe. The airlifted furniture lends European flair to the place, especially in the living room, where pieces are arranged on a Bibikabad carpet around a marble mantel. I still can’t stop pawing the Venetian-plaster walls, which extend into the adjacent dining room, anchored by a Regency table and set of George III ladder-back chairs. And our master suite, with its hand-painted wallpaper and Italian neoclassical walnut bed, is exquisite.
It’s rare that a person exceeds expectations, but Michael certainly did—creating an exceptionally warm, cultured, and beautiful home for my family.
Now if he could just get me out of these sweatpants.
Related: See More Celebrity Homes in AD
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https://www.colorwithleo.com/are-george-stephanopoulos-and-ali-wentworth-still-married/
|
en
|
Are George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth still married?
|
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2023-09-20T10:36:17+00:00
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lOHheHhgDM George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth are one of the most beloved celebrity couples. The two have been married since 2001 and have two daughters together. Yet over the years, there have been various rumors
|
en
|
Color With Leo
|
https://www.colorwithleo.com/are-george-stephanopoulos-and-ali-wentworth-still-married/
|
George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth are one of the most beloved celebrity couples. The two have been married since 2001 and have two daughters together. Yet over the years, there have been various rumors about their relationship status. Are George and Ali still happily married today? Let’s take a look at the facts.
George and Ali’s Relationship History
George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth first met in 1997 when Ali was a cast member on the comedy show In Living Color and George worked at the Clinton White House. However, they didn’t begin dating until a few years later in 2001. The two hit it off instantly and after just a few months of dating, George proposed. The couple tied the knot on November 20, 2001 at the Archdiocesan Cathedral of the Holy Trinity on New York’s Upper East Side.
In 2003, George and Ali welcomed their first daughter, Elliott Anastasia Stephanopoulos. Two years later in 2005, their second daughter Harper Andrea was born. The family resides primarily in New York City.
Over the years, George and Ali have gushed about one another in interviews. Ali has described her husband as “incredibly kind” and “hilarious.” Meanwhile, George has called his wife “beautiful,” “funny,” and “brilliant.”
State of Their Marriage Today
By all accounts, George and Ali appear to still be happily married after over 20 years together. Here are some signs their marriage remains strong:
They regularly walk red carpets together for events like the Met Gala and Emmy Awards.
Ali frequently posts photos with George on Instagram and writes loving captions.
The couple has been seen being affectionate in New York City, holding hands and linking arms.
In interviews as recent as 2022, George and Ali have spoken highly of one another and their marriage.
Additionally, there have been no rumors of cheating, no public marital issues, and neither has ever filed for divorce. Many news outlets still cite them as relationship goals for their evident affection and support of each other’s careers over the years.
Addressing Rumors and Speculation
While George and Ali’s marriage appears rock-solid, that hasn’t stopped tabloids from spreading various divorce rumors about them over the years. However, these rumors lack credible sources or evidence to back them up.
For example, in 2014 Star magazine claimed George and Ali’s marriage was “in crisis” over his demanding job. Gossip Cop investigated this story and found it false – George’s job schedule remained consistent and the couple was still regularly seen in public together. In 2018, Life & Style alleged Ali gave George an “ultimatum” over President Trump straining their marriage. This was also unsupported speculation.
It’s typical for celebrities like George and Ali to be subjected to made-up divorce drama in tabloid magazines. Outlets profit from creating shocking stories even without facts to prove them. Given George and Ali’s long history and recent actions, it appears they have not let false gossip impact their marriage.
What Friends and Family Say
Friends and family of George and Ali have also shut down divorce rumors in the press and asserted the couple’s marriage remains intact.
In 2016, Ali’s mother Margo denied a National Enquirer story claiming George and Ali were headed to $250 million divorce. Margo stated: “It’s all a lie. They’re very happy together. I was just with them last week in New York.”
In 2018, a source close to the couple told Gossip Cop that divorce speculation was “not true” and the pair were “happily married.” The insider explained both George and Ali’s careers simply keep them busy but they still make family a priority.
Based on these accounts, those close to George and Ali confirm that despite a hectic work life, they continue to nurture a healthy marriage and family and split time between job obligations and personal time together.
How George and Ali Make Their Marriage Work
Ali Wentworth has shared some insights into why her marriage to George Stephanopoulos has lasted over 20 years in the public eye. A few of her tips include:
Making time for date nights without their kids twice a week
Being each other’s best friend and “true partner”
Allowing each other space to focus on individual career goals
Having a rule to never spend more than 2 weeks apart
Putting their marriage above everything except their children
It’s clear George and Ali have found a balance that works for their busy lives in the spotlight. Though unconventional, they have made compromises and built a strong foundation based on trust and communication. As Ali told Good Housekeeping in 2022: “You have to keep making the choice to be together.” And by all evidence, that’s exactly what the couple continues to do year after year.
Conclusion
Despite tabloid gossip suggesting otherwise, there are no credible signs George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth are headed for divorce. The long-time couple appears as happy as ever based on their public outings, social media posts, and comments from close insiders. While juggling high-profile careers, they have made their marriage and family a top priority.
George and Ali prove a celebrity marriage can go the distance through mutual respect, friendship, and continued effort. After over 20 years together, they seem to still genuinely enjoy each other’s company. So yes, by all accounts George and Ali remain happily married and committed life partners.
Summary in a Table
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https://decider.com/2023/08/18/george-stephanopoulos-ali-wentworth-good-morning-america-appearance/
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en
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George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth Praised as the “Cutest Couple Ever” During Joint Appearance on ‘GMA’
|
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2023-08-18T00:00:00
|
George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth were the definition of couple goals on a recent episode of 'Good Morning America.'
|
en
|
Decider
|
https://decider.com/2023/08/18/george-stephanopoulos-ali-wentworth-good-morning-america-appearance/
|
George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth were the definition of couple goals on a recent episode of Good Morning America. In a clip sent into the show from their couch, the duo sported cozy loungewear as they congratulated Robin Roberts on her impending nuptials.
Wentworth — who met the television host on a blind date in 2001 and married him later that same year — kicked off the video with a cheeky message to the GMA anchor and her fiancé, Amber Laign.
“Robin and Amber, congratulations. You are about to embark on such an incredibly beautiful journey,” Wentworth began, before quipping, “We’ve been married for over 64 years and I have to say every day is unicorns and rainbows.”
While the comedian was making her jokes, her husband was staring lovingly at her, before letting out a laugh at her sarcastic comment. He ended the video by telling Roberts, “We love you. I know it was worth the wait. Congratulations.”
The moment was later posted to GMA’s Instagram account, where many fans of the show took to the comments section to express their love for the longtime married couple.
“I love the way George and Ali are with each other. Check it out people, that is what love looks like.❤️❤️,” one wrote, while another added, “That was so funny and sweet. I adore George and Ali.”
A third person said, “George already knew Ali was going to say something crazy!” before someone else echoed, “Cutest couple ever. He never knows what she is going to say, he just rolls with whatever it is!! Just love them❤️🥰♥️”
“I love how he looks at her 🥹,” another commented, while a fifth social media user added, “Unicorns and rainbows…😂 They are so funny and cute together!”
Their sweet message comes amid a week filled with wedding celebrations for Roberts — who is set to marry Laign this September, 18 years after they first met on a blind date in 2005. On Wednesday morning’s (Aug. 17) episode of the morning talk show, Roberts’ ABC family (and then some) transformed the studio into a beach-themed bachelorette party.
Roberts first announced the news of her engagement on GMA in January of this year.
“I’m hesitating because I haven’t said it out loud yet. I’m saying yes to marriage,” she revealed at the time. “We’re getting married this year. It’s something we’ve talked about but we had put it off. But it was just — and it is staying yes to that and that next chapter. I can’t believe I just said that.”
Good Morning America airs every weekday at 7/6c on ABC.
|
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https://www.hellomagazine.com/celebrities/517352/george-stephanopoulos-ali-wentworth-relationship-timeline/
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en
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George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth's unique relationship story - full timeline
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2024-04-11T14:46:11.222000+00:00
|
GMA's George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth's unique relationship story revealed before their marriage. The celebrity couple are parents to daughter Elliott and Harper
|
en
|
/apple-touch-icon-57x57.png
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HELLO!
|
https://www.hellomagazine.com/celebrities/517352/george-stephanopoulos-ali-wentworth-relationship-timeline/
|
George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth have an incredible relationship, and after two decades together, the celebrity couple's unique dating story still doesn't get old.
Here's everything you need to know about how Good Morning America's favorite couple got together.
April 2001: How they met
While many people are reluctant to go on blind dates – including the couple themselves at the time – George and Ali are living proof that they are sometimes a great way to meet your soulmate.
The Go Ask Ali podcast star opened up about the beginning of their love story during at a book signing in Sarasota back in 2012.
"I didn't care about politics, and figured he'd be the last person I'd be interested in," she said. "I was holding out for Hugh Grant or Matthew Perry."
After agreeing to go on the blind date to simply please her friend, Ali realised that she had a lot in common with George, even ordering the same meal – a crab salad – and proceeded to talk for hours.
George, meanwhile, told the New York Times: "You know how when you go on a date and he first 15 minutes are on automatic pilot? About 15 minutes in, she just leaned in and said something, and we were suddenly in another place, in another universe, immediately. We went from strangers to friends to being in love in days."
June 2001: The couple get engaged
Wasting no time whatsoever, Ali and George got engaged after just two months of dating on a trip to Greece.
"I had a ring made, and I think she knew," George confessed, which his wife confirmed.
"I did know! I knew that you had the ring made because you were meeting your cousin for breakfast, and he was a jeweler. I knew it was in your backpack!"
November 2001: Wedding bells
Not long after their engagement, the couple tied the knot in a special ceremony performed by George's father, who is a reverend.
According to Ali, the couple had a traditional Greek wedding with Greek dancing.
"One of my favorite memories from that event was watching these circles of people we loved, arm-in-arm, kicking their legs up to Greek music", she said. "The director Mike Nichols next to George's grandmother next to an 8-year-old flower girl next to my college roommate."
September 2002: Welcoming their first daughter
Shortly after tying the knot, the couple went on to welcome their first child, daughter Elliott.
June 2005: Having their second daughter
Three years after welcoming Elliot, the couple gave birth to their daughter Harper. At 6 lbs. 9 oz. and 19 inches, she was the same weight and height as her older sister, Elliott.
December 2009: Moving to New York
The family were based in Washington D.C. until December 2009, when George was offered a job as a co-anchor on ABC's morning show Good Morning America.
The move saw Ali - who grew up in Washington – make the ultimate sacrifice for her husband, with them uprooting their family to New York, where they have lived ever since.
While they considerably downsized from their previous house, something Ali opened up about in an article for Architectural Digest, they have made their three-bed apartment a home that they love, and have been happily living there for over a decade.
November 2016: The couple talk parenting
The couple opened up about how they balance each other out while parenting their daughters.
"[He's] more of the disciplinarian ... but I'm the shopper. I'm the indulger," Ali said. "But it works."
She added: "He's organized in terms of family schedules, his schedule, my schedule, what's happening any given day. I have the pantry organized, and our underwear drawer is impeccable."
November 2021: 20th wedding anniversary
Ali marked her 20th anniversary with George by sharing wedding photos on Instagram with the caption: "20 years!!!!!!! And I'm still full of love and celebration!"
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Sieh dir auf Facebook Beiträge, Fotos und vieles mehr an.
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https://www.nytimes.com/2015/06/21/nyregion/how-ali-wentworth-comedian-and-author-spends-her-sundays.html
|
en
|
How Ali Wentworth, Comedian and Author, Spends Her Sundays
|
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2015-06-21T00:00:00
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Ms. Wentworth, a comedian and author, has bagels with lemon with her husband and two daughters in the morning, and ends the day with a couple of television shows.
|
en
|
/vi-assets/static-assets/favicon-d2483f10ef688e6f89e23806b9700298.ico
|
https://www.nytimes.com/2015/06/21/nyregion/how-ali-wentworth-comedian-and-author-spends-her-sundays.html
|
Even though the comedian Ali Wentworth is creating television pilots and writing books (her most recent, “Happily Ali After,” was published on June 9), she still has creative energy to burn. “I’ll wake up in the middle of the night and paint a bathroom or bake 300 homemade chocolate chip cookies,” she said. Having worked in television (“In Living Color,” “Seinfeld” ) and film (“It’s Complicated,” “Office Space”), Ms. Wentworth, 50, has become accustomed to the ebbs and flows of show business. On Sundays, she and her husband, George Stephanopoulos, 54, chief anchor for ABC News, shed their professional personas. They have two daughters, Elliott, 12, and Harper, 9, and a couple of dogs. They live on the Upper East Side.
DARK DEPARTURE My husband gets up at 2:30 in the morning every day to do “Good Morning America.” But he’ll sleep late, until 3:30, maybe 4, on Sunday, before he does “This Week.” Nobody’s up, but he has to kiss everybody goodbye. It’s dark, so he’s always looking for my face with his hand. I’m like, ‘Don’t kiss me. I know you love me.’ Then I fall back asleep.
DOMESTIC DEMANDS If I were at the Peninsula Hotel in L.A., I’d sleep until 10 a.m. But my kids wake up. At 6:30, 7, my 9-year-old, I’m awakened by her face in my face, going, “I’m hungry, Mommy.” Then I, kind of blurry-eyed, go downstairs. It becomes a series of cleaning up dog pee — our 15-year-old dog, Charlie, who’s incontinent, is getting kind of blind so he misses the puppy pads — and the girls will rattle out a million things they want to eat. “I want pancakes.” “I want pancakes with chocolate chips.” “I want a smoothie.”
NUMBER ONE FAN George comes home at 10 and he takes the girls to church, to the Greek Orthodox Church on East 74th. It’s George’s time with them. He was an altar boy; his father is a priest. It’s a great cultural connection. This is my one time of the week when everybody’s out of the apartment. I’m usually watching George’s show, answering emails, probably eating something. If it’s somebody that he’s champing at the bit to interview or somebody he’s conflicted about interviewing, I like to see how it finally came together. A few weeks ago he had the governor of Indiana on. It was a great interview and George was really pressing him. I suddenly wasn’t his wife anymore; I was somebody watching, screaming at the TV.
|
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0
| 60
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https://www.monstersandcritics.com/tv/george-stephanopoulos-wife-reacts-to-his-gma-breaking-news-and-achievement/
|
en
|
George Stephanopoulos’ wife reacts to his GMA ‘breaking news’ and achievement
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2024-05-26T23:29:25+00:00
|
Ali Wentworth reacted after her husband, George Stephanopoulos, received "breaking news" on Good Morning America.
|
en
|
Monsters and Critics
|
https://www.monstersandcritics.com/tv/george-stephanopoulos-wife-reacts-to-his-gma-breaking-news-and-achievement/
|
George Stephanopoulos’ wife, Ali Wentworth, recently reacted after her husband received some special “breaking news.”
The big announcement arrived on Good Morning America, courtesy of George’s co-star Robin Roberts.
“OK, we have breaking news. This just in – George’s book The Situation Room [is] No. 1 on the New York Times Bestsellers List,” Robin revealed on live TV.
That brought cheers from off-camera and congratulations from Robin and co-anchor Michael Strahan.
Strahan also revealed that he had a friend who he’d like to give signed copies of the book, which George said he’d be happy to help with.
Along with his GMA co-stars offering congratulations, George also received a special message from his loving wife.
Ali Wentworth reacts to George’s big news
In a post on her official Instagram profile, Ali Wentworth expressed her love for her husband, George, and his recent accomplishments.
She uploaded a humorous photo showing George in a white button-up shirt after passing out on a couch or bed, still holding his glasses in hand.
“Congratulations @gstephanopoulos #1 on the @nytbooks !!!!! Couldn’t be more proud!” Ali captioned her Instagram post.
Ali’s post received over 17,900 likes and 400-plus comments, several of which came from celebrity friends offering their reactions.
“THIS IS HUGE!! #1 Well deserved xoxo congratulations and now for the Naap!” Academy Award-winning actress Goldie Hawn commented.
Robin Roberts appeared with another message to celebrate her co-star, commenting, “Well deserved!! #1”
“Huuuge congratulations! #NothingHeCan’tDo,” wrote Emmy-winning Law & Order SVU actress Mariska Hargitay.
Earlier this month, Ali wished George a “Happy Pub Day” for the May 14 release of his book The Situation Room.
Ali recently joked her husband was trying to make her ‘jealous’
After congratulating George, Ali shared two other IG posts celebrating her love for her husband.
One post featured a photo of the couple looking happy together as they posed side by side.
Ali captioned the IG post with many heart emojis to celebrate their love for one another.
She also does not shy away from making jokes about herself, her husband, and their life together.
On Sunday, May 26, Ali shared a photo featuring her and George seated on a rocky shore enjoying a beautiful scene with blue water in Cala Bóquer, Spain. However, a goat was between them and quite close to George.
“George always trying to make me jealous….,” Ali joked in her IG post’s caption.
George was once among the most eligible bachelors around until he met Ali, a popular comedic actress.
“[Ali] left behind legions of heartbroken men in Los Angeles,” according to her friend Holly Peterson.
According to the New York Times, George and Ali became a couple following Peterson setting them up on a blind date. They married in November 2001.
They’ve since had two daughters, Elliott, 21, and Harper, 18, with their eldest now in college.
They have each released books during their marriage and are both New York Times bestselling authors. Ali’s book, Ali in Wonderland, landed on the New York Times Bestsellers List in 2012.
Ali appeared on GMA alongside George when she released another of her books, Go Ask Ali, seven years ago.
At the time, Strahan asked for the secret to their marriage, and Ali joked, “I’m always right, and he’s always wrong.”
“I think humor. I think we are hot for each other. I think that helps,” she also shared during GMA.
|
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https://soundcloud.com/siriusxmentertainment/i-thought-he-was-gay-ali-wentworth-on-now-husband-george-stephanopoulos
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"I thought he was gay..." - Ali Wentworth On Now Husband George Stephanopoulos by SiriusXM Entertainment
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George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth's relationship timeline
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2023-12-29T09:09:00+05:30
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George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth quickly fell in love after meeting on a blind date set up by a friend of Wentworth and ex-girlfriend of Stepha
|
en
|
The Times of India
|
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/tv/news/english/george-stephanopoulos-and-ali-wentworths-relationship-timeline/articleshow/106365515.cms
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10 times Deepika Padukone proved to be Sabyasachi's favourite muse
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Food
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George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth's relationship timeline
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2023-12-29T09:09:00+05:30
|
George Stephanopoulos and Ali Wentworth quickly fell in love after meeting on a blind date set up by a friend of Wentworth and ex-girlfriend of Stepha
|
en
|
The Times of India
|
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/tv/news/english/george-stephanopoulos-and-ali-wentworths-relationship-timeline/articleshow/106365515.cms
|
10 times Deepika Padukone proved to be Sabyasachi's favourite muse
Lifestyle
8 health benefits of practicing Surya Namaskar every morning
Lifestyle
How to make Ragi Beetroot Cheese Paratha
Food
10 unique baby boy names that mean blessings
Lifestyle
|
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4428
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yago
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2
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https://www.tiktok.com/discover/george-stephanopoulos-full-interview
|
en
|
Make Your Day
|
[] |
[] |
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4428
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yago
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0
| 40
|
https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-george-stephanopoulos-and-wife-alexandra-wentworth-seen-walking-on-36492509.html
|
en
|
George Stephanopoulos and wife Alexandra Wentworth seen walking on 5th Avenue in Manhattan New York City, USA
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Download this stock image: George Stephanopoulos and wife Alexandra Wentworth seen walking on 5th Avenue in Manhattan New York City, USA - 30.04.09 - C3AAFW from Alamy's library of millions of high resolution stock photos, illustrations and vectors.
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https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-george-stephanopoulos-and-wife-alexandra-wentworth-seen-walking-on-36492509.html
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You can only use this image in editorial media and for personal use. Editorial media includes use as a visual reference to support your article, story, critique or educational text. Personal use allows you to make a single personal print, card or gift for non-commercial use. Not for resale.
It shouldn't be used for commercial use which includes advertising, marketing, promotion, packaging, advertorials, and consumer or merchandising products.
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||||||
4428
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yago
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0
| 56
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https://www.thesun.co.uk/news/13110364/george-stephanopoulos-ali-wentworth-kelly-ryan/
|
en
|
Who is George Stephanopoulos’ wife, Ali Wentworth?
|
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2021-07-09T18:00:41+01:00
|
ABC News political anchor George Stephanopoulos is married to actress, producer, and philanthropist Ali Wentworth.The two met on a blind date and have
|
en
|
The Sun
|
https://www.thesun.co.uk/news/13110364/george-stephanopoulos-ali-wentworth-kelly-ryan/
|
ABC News political anchor George Stephanopoulos is married to actress, producer, and philanthropist Ali Wentworth.
The two met on a blind date and have been married for two decades, sharing two daughters.
Who is Stephanopoulos' wife, Ali Wentworth?
Alexandra "Ali" Wentworth is an American actress, comedian, author, and producer.
Wentworth is most notable for her work in the Fox sketch comedy series In Living Color from 1992 to 1994, where she was known for impressions of famous celebrities.
Her film credits include Jerry Maguire, The Real Blonde, Office Space, The Love Bug and It’s Complicated, and she once worked as a correspondent for The Oprah Winfrey Show.
She formerly hosted The Daily Shot with Ali Wentworth on Yahoo and starred in the TV series Nightcap, which she created and wrote.
She is also a philanthropist and supports the Child Mind Institue, a nonprofit dedicated to transforming the lives of children & families struggling with mental health & learning disorders.
When did Wentworth co-host Live with Kelly and Ryan?
On August 24, 2022, Wentworth co-hosted Live with Kelly and Ryan while Kelly Ripa is still on vacation.
Although the show started off as innocent, it took an awkward turn when the 57-year-old joked about Ryan's IQ level.
During the segment, Ryan, 47, explained how he thought he had spotted a stingray in the bay, but it turned out to be a very large crab.
Still stunned, Ali made an exasperated “wow” sound, before throwing extra shade and joking to Ryan: “I guess there’s no IQ test to be a host of morning television.”
When did Stephanopoulos and Wentworth get married?
Wentworth married George Stephanopoulos in 2001.
The couple shares two children together: Elliott Anastasia Stephanopoulos and Harper Andrea Stephanopoulos.
Wentworth and her husband and children all live in New York City.
Who is George Stephanopoulos and what does he do?
Stephanopoulos is an American television host, political commentator, and former Democratic advisor.
He is the chief anchor and political correspondent for ABC News.
He was one of President Bill Clinton's most trusted aides during his first term. Stephanopoulos' initiatives most notably focused on crime legislation, affirmative action, and a healthcare plan that was spearheaded by Hillary Clinton.
Stephanopoulos grew up in Fall River, Massachusetts, and began his political career in Ohio before he moved to Washington DC.
He is the son of first-generation Greek-American parents.
|
|||||
4428
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yago
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https://www.datalounge.com/thread/20611495-george-stephanopoulos-trying-to-sell-home-in-the-hamptons
|
en
|
George Stephanopoulos trying to sell home in the Hamptons
|
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Ruh-roh, trouble in paradise?
|
en
|
the DataLounge
|
https://www.datalounge.com/thread/20611495-george-stephanopoulos-trying-to-sell-home-in-the-hamptons
|
Vintage gossip:
“Name-George Stephanopolous Dirt-according to a former neighbor, he is pimply, grimy, and tiny; same neighbor also saw him with a frequent visitor, a tall slender brown haired guy; gay but married, had affair with mail personal trainer; described by Hilary Clinton as a little queen; likes to cruise guys at the gym;Bebe Neuwerth is a former girlfriend, but supposedly never spent the night at his place; had a very hot gay affair right up until he got married”
“Name-Alexanda Wentworth Dirt-cheapskate, returned flower arrangements to florist after wedding for full refund; married to the nelly acting George Stephanopoulos More dirt-allows husband to have gay affairs ”. (I did love her Starz show “Head Case”. That shit was hilarious.)
r20 still not as bad as Mika and Joe vacationing together secretly outside of NYC but pretending to be in different studios/countries forcing MSNBC to send two separate crews to handle their segments even though they were in the same building, feet away from each other. He would take the traditional background, Mika would get a random one. MSNBC finally put a stop to that nonsense and they went "public" with their relationship.
I still get a kick out of that story.
[quote] His wife, Ali Wentworth, says she and Stephanopoulos have so much sex, she’s “lost friends” over it.
[quote]In her new book, “Go Ask Ali,” the actress/comedian — who has been married to the broadcaster for 17 years — says that when she reveals to pals how often she and her newshound beau get it on, they’re invariably furious.
[quote]She adds in the witty advice book, out April 24 from Harper, that she feels left out at “ladies’ lunches” because she can’t join the others in complaining about their terrible marriages.
[quote] She recalls, “The absolute lowest moment for me is when the time arrives for the fateful question: ‘How often do you and your husband have sex?’ I have lost friends with this question.”
[quote]She writes that before answering, she “takes a deep breath” and “spit[s] it out. And then the women gasp and scream like I’ve confessed that I shot my dog. One of them always slams her fist down on the table; a woman’s wine glass once smashed in her hand. I’m sorry! We’re hot for each other. Jesus!”
The lady doth protest too much, methinks. She's just like Hargitay, who never misses an opportunity to remind the world about how perfect her marriage is.
They have a new-ish townhouse in Georgetown just off M. They've featured it in decorating mags.
Just cause her ancestors had money does not mean she has it.
I worked with George eons ago when he was the LD for a congressman and I was a lobbyist. He was very nice and helpful.
|
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4428
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yago
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| 6
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https://www.oprah.com/own-where-are-they-now/ali-wentworth-and-george-stephanopoulos-bedtime-ritual-video
|
en
|
Ali Wentworth and George Stephanopoulos' Bedtime Ritual
|
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When her husband, George Stephanopoulos, was named anchor of 'Good Morning America' in 2009, Ali Wentworth made a crucial decision for their family.
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Oprah.com
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| ||||
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| 61
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https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3651786/George-Stephanopoulos-wife-Ali-Wentworth-scruff-Italian-vacation.html
|
en
|
Alexandra Wentworth posts sweet snap of herself with husband George Stephanopolous
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[] |
[
"dailymail",
"news"
] | null |
[
"Kiri Blakeley",
"www.facebook.com"
] |
2016-06-21T06:43:56+01:00
|
George Stephanopoulos and wife Alexandra Wentworth are so relaxed on their Amali Coast vacation that George has ditched his razor and grown a beard.
|
/favicon.ico?v=2
|
Mail Online
|
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3651786/George-Stephanopoulos-wife-Ali-Wentworth-scruff-Italian-vacation.html
|
George Stephanopoulos - hipster? The Good Morning America anchor and his wife, Alexandra Wentworth, are taking a well-deserved vacation in Italy and that gave the hard-charging journalist the time to relax and ditch his razor.
Author and actress Wentworth posted a picture on Twitter of her and her politics-loving hubby snuggling with the caption 'Italy! #Romance'
Alexandra didn't let everyone know how she felt about the new vacation scruff.
Fans, however, seem to be enjoying it.
'I love seeing @GStephanopoulos so relaxed and scruffy! It lets the world know he can be chill! You two are precious...enjoy!' wrote one woman on Twitter.
Judging by Ali's Twitter feed, the romantic pair, who have been married for 16 years, are in idyllic Positano on the Amalfi Coast.
George has certainly earned his time in the sun. He has been relentlessly covering the election campaigns for GMA and Sunday Morning This Week and may still need some recovery time from when he confronted Donald Trump about not releasing his tax returns in May.
The couple, who seem as happily married today as the day they tied the knot, have two children, Elliott and Harper.
|
|||||
4428
|
yago
|
3
| 39
|
https://abc7chicago.com/ali-wentworth-coronavirus-covid-george-stephanopoulos/6070912/
|
en
|
Comedian Ali Wentworth describes experience after COVID-19 diagnosis
|
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[] |
[] |
[
"Ali Wentworth",
"Ali Wentworth coronavirus",
"Ali Wentworth covid",
"George Stephanopoulos",
"celebrities with coronavirus",
"coronavirus update",
"coronavirus symptoms"
] | null |
[] |
2020-04-02T17:56:05+00:00
|
Comedian and actress Ali Wentworth is sharing her experience after testing positive for COVID-19, describing it as "a really, really horrible flu."
|
en
|
https://cdn.abcotvs.net/abcotv/assets/news/wls/images/logos/favicon.ico
|
ABC7 Chicago
|
https://abc7chicago.com/ali-wentworth-coronavirus-covid-george-stephanopoulos/6070912/
|
NEW YORK -- Comedian and actress Ali Wentworth is sharing her experience after testing positive for COVID-19, describing it as "a really, really horrible flu."
Wentworth, who is married to ABC News anchor George Stephanopoulos, recorded a personal message for "Good Morning America" to help viewers who might be struggling with the disease.
"I'm feverish if I'm allowing myself to go on national television with no makeup on," she joked.
Wentworth is currently quarantined in her home and feeling OK. She said the only person who sees her is Stephanopoulos, and she is isolating from her daughters.
RELATED: List of notable people who tested positive for coronavirus
She said she started feeling symptomatic while walking her dog Cooper.
"I just felt very, very winded. And I assumed, of course, it was because I never work out and I'm out of shape, but it was too heavy for that. And I came home, wasn't feeling great. And it wasn't until the fever started that I realized this can't be a common summer cold," she said.
Since receiving her COVID-19 diagnosis, Wentworth said she's experienced a high fever and achy joints.
"It feels like a really, really horrible flu," she said. "I'm still in it now, but I can tell you the things that help: Tylenol, chicken soup. I took some hot baths when I had chills and ... I have two dogs that sleep on my bed with me. So anyway. Be safe. Stay home. "
Stephanopoulos said he is working from home this week but has not indicated that he feels ill.
|
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17422
|
yago
|
2
| 7
|
https://www.dictionary.com/e/pot-marijuana/
|
en
|
Why Is Marijuana Also Called Pot?
|
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[] |
[] |
[
""
] | null |
[
"Dictionary.com"
] |
2010-07-20T22:00:38+00:00
|
Weed. Mary Jane. Chronic. There are dozens of slang synonyms for marijuana. But one of the strangest is the word pot. How did the word for a common kitchen instrument become slang for marijuana? The origin of pot has nothing to do with the culinary tool. The word came into use in America in the late 1930s. It is a shortening of the Spanish potiguaya …
|
en
|
Dictionary.com
|
https://www.dictionary.com/e/pot-marijuana/
|
Weed. Mary Jane. Chronic. There are dozens of slang synonyms for marijuana. But one of the strangest is the word pot. How did the word for a common kitchen instrument become slang for marijuana?
The origin of pot has nothing to do with the culinary tool. The word came into use in America in the late 1930s. It is a shortening of the Spanish potiguaya or potaguaya that came from potación de guaya, a wine or brandy in which marijuana buds have been steeped. It literally means “the drink of grief.”
Like pot, the word marijuana refers to cannabis, the hemp plant Cannabis sativa (or Cannabis indica). The plant grows naturally in central Asia and other warm regions. Its uses vary from recreational to medicinal to religious.
Marijuana is the dried leaves and female flowers of the hemp plant. The word’s origin dates back to the late nineteenth century. It is an Americanism for the Mexican Spanish marihuana or mariguana, which is associated with the personal name María Juana. Mary Jane, by the way, is the English version of María Juana.
|
|||||
17422
|
yago
|
3
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https://open.spotify.com/playlist/1K7xnSrsaPfPEBXJ4FtLvq
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en
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House
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https://mosaic.scdn.co/640/ab67616d00001e026cd4ed81f68b5a6b6871daaeab67616d00001e02707609c0d67d171fd64b5bd1ab67616d00001e02759f96342c130ac288cec869ab67616d00001e02ef0e75a3b57e0f8b74da4a11
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[] |
[] |
[] |
[
""
] | null |
[] | null |
Playlist · House · 73 songs · 6 likes
|
en
|
Spotify
|
https://open.spotify.com/playlist/1K7xnSrsaPfPEBXJ4FtLvq
| ||||
17422
|
yago
|
0
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|
https://www.backpackthesierra.com/about-9
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en
|
Backpack the Sierra
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https://static.parastorage.com/client/pfavico.ico
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https://static.parastorage.com/client/pfavico.ico
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en
|
https://static.parastorage.com/client/pfavico.ico
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Backpack the Sierra
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https://www.backpackthesierra.com/about-9
|
A couple of years ago my younger daughter had plans to hike the Camino de Santiago in Spain. She is fluent in Spanish, and thought it might make a nice adventure. Since I lived in Spain for five years (long before she was born...but I'm still fluent in Spanish) and also love hiking, I subtly (well, maybe not that subtly) suggested I would be happy to join her. But due to a number of circumstances, her plans changed and she never made the trip.
But then she dropped me a note and laid out some dates. And after a bit of back and forth to make sure it worked for both of us, we settled on a timeframe and a route. We'll be doing the Camino Primitivo--the original route hiked by Spanish King Alfonso II when he made the first pilgrimage to visit the tomb of St. James, Santiago, back in the 9th century. It is considerably less traveled now than the more popular Camino Frances over the Pyrenees.
That's Alfonso himself, left.
It starts in the ancient town of Oviedo (some start it on the coast, but we took it from Oviedo) and hikes over mountains and through small towns until we join the Camino Frances and its thousands of pilgrims in Melide.
At that point, the last 30 miles or so, it's a different experience!
The total miles is something over 200 and should take around two weeks, if all goes according to plan.
Here's a link to more background on the Camino Primitivo: https://www.csj.org.uk/camino-primitivo#:~:text=History%3A%20The%20Primitivo%20is%20believed,had%20been%20discovered%20in%20Compostela.
Because this is a pilgrimage route, we stayed in hotels and hostels, rather than camping out. For an experienced backpacker, that makes a big difference--no tent or ground cloth to lug along. And we ate in cafes and bought food along the way, so we didn't need the stove or the cook kit, either, although I took along a simple set of bamboo silverware in case we wanted to buy food and eat it along the way. And no water filter
Of course I took rain gear, and a down vest, along with a couple of shirts and two pairs of hiking pants. Add in some socks, undies, and pjs, and that pretty much summarizes the clothing end of things. We each tool a very light (40 degree F.) sleeping bag, just in case we need it in one of the hostels. Some toiletries and a very basic first aid kit were in my pack, along with a couple of headlamps. mosquito headnets, buffs, bandanas, platyupus bottles, sewing kit, extra shoelaces, and other accoutrements of the backpacking life--I would just hate it if we needed one of these and I'd left it at home. They weighed about a pound, total.
I took a pair of camp shoes (Crocs) to give my feet a rest in the evenings, and my phone and charger so I could post these updates. And please don't mention this to the TSA, but I took along a folding hiking pole to take some of the strain off my knee on the downhills.
The whole pack weighed in under fifteen pounds at home. For a more than two week backpacking trip, that seems like luxury.
And for image's sake, we hung a scallop shell on our packs, to correctly identify ourselves as pilgrims. As a backpacker, I was hoping that I could find multiple uses for it!
ABOUT OVIEDO
Oviedo is an ancient city, one time capital of the Kingdom of Asturias. The city has a lovely "casco antiguo," the oldest part of town, plus a nice archeological museum, and a nice fine arts museum. It's quite walkable, at least in the center, and both of the museums are free!
It's also famous for heavy stews and cider(not wine--the culture here runs to bagpipes, wooden shoes, and cider!), so we often had limited options for food, since Estelle is a vegetarian. But we liked our short time here...
For the full logs of all the photos from our trip: https://photos.app.goo.gl/sJFfA4781AJBqs3K6
More thoughts on the Camino Primitivo
Other thoughts--Things changed once we got on the Camino Frances. Now other hikers were shipping big suitcases ahead, and just hiking with little day packs. Almost nobody did this on the Primitivo. And they talked--loudly to each other, on the phone. They listened to music on boom boxes. And the electric bike guys were the worst, speeding by, yelling at times. Complete jerks. A far cry from the fifteen people a day quietly walking near us on the Primitivo.
If we got up early enough to start walking while it was just barely getting ligh, we still had a few miles of peaceful progress, even on the Camino Frances.
And I did attend a pilgrim's mass on my last night in Santiago, but they did not fly the botafumeiro {the huge censer) but I am not sure why.
We also noted that the total climbing on our route is more than 27,000 feet, so almost an "Everest" for those who such silly things
Food: Asturias was stews and meat, which limited our choices for Estelle, so we did lots of tortilla espanola and cheese. We got a little tired of that. The orange juice, on the other hand, was consistently excellent and fresh squeezed. Our friend Irene would point out that the oranges must be from Valencia.
We did order a lot of ensalada mixta -- a Spanish version of salade nicoise, that was usually available. Many hostels had vegetarian options, some of which were quite good. But Galicia had seafood, and we loved it. All kinds, from shellfish (scallops, mussels, calamari, etc.) to bacalao, hake, and cod...and always octopus. What a luxury.
Estelle -- I could not have asked for a better hiking partner: cheerful, strong, and always willing to help. She carried a heavier pack (she took most of the food) and made all the pension reservations flawlessly. And we took care of each other, reminding ourselves to eat, drink, and use my hiking pole on the descents! She was enthusiastic about so many things, she added joy to so many experiences. A true joy to be with her every day on the trail. Truly the best part of my Camino.
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17422
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yago
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3
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https://www.answers.com/english-language-arts/How_do_you_use_Camino_in_a_sentence
|
en
|
How do you use Camino in a sentence?
|
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Uso un camino ir al cine.
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en
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/favicon.ico
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Answers
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https://www.answers.com/english-language-arts/How_do_you_use_Camino_in_a_sentence
|
How can you use scrum in a sentence?
.. how can use scrum in a sentence
How do you use travelogue in a sentence?
how can we use travelogue in the sentence
How do you use cautios in a sentence?
How to use foundation in a sentence
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17422
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yago
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0
| 43
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https://whatsdavedoing.com/camino-primitivo-guide/
|
en
|
Walking the Camino Primitivo: An In-Depth Guide
|
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2020-05-25T18:47:09+00:00
|
A detailed guide to walking the Camino Primitivo, with costs, accommodation, food and drink, and more, plus day-by-day descriptions.
|
en
|
What's Dave Doing?
|
https://whatsdavedoing.com/camino-primitivo-guide/
|
When people talk about “the Camino de Santiago,” in general they’re talking about the Camino Frances, a nearly-800km walking trail across northern Spain. There are many other Camino routes, however: you’ll find a dozen or more just in Spain, all finishing at the great cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
The Frances, while by far the most popular, isn’t the original route. That honour goes to the Camino Primitivo (primitivo means original or first in Spanish), a trail that was first walked by the Spanish king Alfonso II in the ninth century. At the time much of what is now Spain was under Moorish rule, with only the northern part still independent.
Having walked the Frances and Portuguese routes in previous years, it was time for a new challenge. Looking for a challenging but beautiful two- week walk in Europe in fall/autumn, the Primitivo seemed to fit the bill perfectly. Spoiler alert: it very much did.
It’s taken me about as long to write this guide to the Primitivo as it did to walk it, and I’ve broken it up into two main sections, covering planning and the walk itself.
If you’re preparing for your own Camino Primitivo and want to know things like how hard it is, the easiest ways to get to and from the trail, where to stay, distances, costs, and what the food and drink options are like, and other logistical details, read the first part.
If you prefer pretty photos, or want a route summary, daily distances, or a detailed day-by-day description of the walk, check out the second section.
Or, if you’d rather, just read it all!
Planning and Logistics
How Hard is It?
The Camino Primitivo is regularly described as “the most difficult” of the northern Camino routes, but I don’t really agree. Assuming you start somewhere near the French border like most people do, the Frances and Norte routes are both well over twice as long and there’s a lot more road walking as well. For me, at least, that makes them harder overall.
Any given day on the Primitivo, however, is likely to be more difficult than most days on the other routes. Much of the trail runs through the mountains and for a week and a half, if you’re not going steeply uphill, you’re going equally steeply down the other side. The views make it all worthwhile, but you may not believe that at the time.
Combine that with noticeably less accommodation than the other routes, and you’ll often end up having to either walk a sub-15km day or commit to double that. Some days, especially if you take the Hospitales route, you don’t get a choice about it: it’s 25km from one village to the next, with no infrastructure of any sort between them.
That said, there are (usually) taxis and (occasionally) buses that can take you between towns. Once you’re walking, though, you may not be near a road for a few hours. Alternative transport options can be limited if you get tired or injured.
Weather can also be a factor. The Primitivo is generally cooler and wetter than the other Camino routes, with fog and strong winds a factor in the mountains as well. We were incredibly lucky with the amount of sunshine and blue skies we got, but you may well not be.
It’s not just about the discomfort, although there’s definitely that as well. If the weather’s bad enough, there’s a real safety issue on some sections of the route. I’ve never checked the weather forecast on any other Camino as much as I did on the Primitivo!
All of that said, if you’re fit, healthy, and have appropriate gear for the conditions you encounter, you should be able to walk the Primitivo without any real problems. This isn’t hardcore back-country hiking by any stretch of the imagination!
How Scenic Is It?
Compared to the Frances, Portuguese, or the section of the Mozarabe routes I’ve walked, when it comes to scenery the Primitivo is the best Camino by far. The first week in particular was full of spectacular views and beautiful countryside, undoubtedly helped by the unusually good weather we had.
With much further between accommodation, and the villages typically being very small when we did get to them, the forests and mountains often felt devoid of other humans. That was especially true on the Hospitales route (below), where for hours we shared the trail with cows, wild horses, and almost no other people.
Other than walking into Santiago itself, there was virtually none of the trekking through suburbia and industrial estates that marred some days on the other routes, even when entering and leaving good-sized cities like Oviedo and Lugo.
In short, if your hope for the Camino is more time in nature and less time in towns and villages, the Primitivo is where it’s at.
Where Does It Start and Finish?
As with any Camino, where you start and finish the Camino Primitivo is really up to you. The “official” route, however, runs roughly south-west from the cathedral in Oviedo, through the mountains of Asturia and the forests of Galicia, to the famous cathedral in Santiago de Compestela.
Along the way, it goes through a few larger towns like Grado, Tineo, and Grandas de Salime, and a couple of cities, Melide and Lugo. The rest of the time, though? You’re walking from one small village to another, often with several hours of trail between them.
How Long Is It?
Between Oviedo and Santiago, the marked route runs for approximately 320km (200 miles) from one cathedral to the other. As with any long-distance trail like this, though, you’ll end up walking more than that.
Finding your accommodation, tracking down food, and any random exploring you have the energy for will all add a bit of extra distance. My Fitbit told me I’d walked a total of 360km by the time I was done, and even though it tends to overestimate a bit, that’s probably not all that far off.
How Well Is It Signposted?
As with other popular Camino routes, the Primitivo is very well waymarked. Between fancy signposts, concrete markers, and the ubiquitous yellow arrows, it’s rare to be out of sight of some kind of route confirmation for more than a few minutes. Basically, whenever you’re walking in daylight and good weather, you’ll rarely go too far off track.
That said, it’s not impossible. Surprisingly, perhaps, this happens most often in the cities, not out in the countryside. Cities like Oviedo and Lugo embed metal scallop shells in the pavement for pilgrims to follow, which are stylish, subtle… and easy to walk straight past when there’s a crowd of pedestrians.
Walking in the dark (which is pretty common, given it doesn’t start getting light until after 7:30am in Spain in mid-September) also adds an extra degree of difficulty. Reflective signs show up in the light of a head torch, but painted arrows? They’re a different story, and you can miss them from a few feet away. Fog has the same effect, and snow buries many of the waymarks entirely in winter.
Long story short? It’s worth having a GPS map of the route on your phone. You’ll rarely need to use it, but it saves stumbling around in the dark or spending half an hour trying to spot invisible metal shells. I used the one in the Buen Camino app, and it worked well.
How Long Does It Take to Walk?
Most people take about two weeks to walk the full length of the Camino Primitivo. That’s an average of about 23km (14 miles) a day, although that average is deceptive: you’ll almost always be walking noticeably more or less on any given day.
My girlfriend and I took 13 days in total, which was a little faster than we’d planned. After a couple of shorter days in the beginning, we walked some longer days toward the end. Sometimes that was by choice, mostly it was just due to the accommodation options or lack of.
Of course, you can walk the Primitivo faster or slower than we did. We met people who were planning to walk it in as little as eight days, and others who’d taken the better part of three weeks. Anything less than about 10 days will be tough and needs good fitness, decent weather, and no injuries to achieve.
If you’re short on time, you’re better off walking part of the route rather than trying to crank out huge distances every day. You could walk for a bit over a week and finish in Lugo, for example, or even start there and just walk the last 100km.
Is It OK to Walk It Solo?
While I walked this Camino with my girlfriend, I’ve done the others solo. Or at least, solo for the first day or two until I started making friends along the trail or in restaurants and albergues at the end of the day. While I could always spend time alone when I wanted it, it was very rare for there not to be an English speaker to chat or have a meal with each day.
The demographic was a bit different on the Primitivo, at least during the two-week period that we were walking it, with more groups of Italian and especially Spanish friends and family. Locals have started to walk routes like the Primitivo more frequently to get away from the summer crowds on the Frances, and that was the case in early to mid-September as well.
If you speak Spanish or Italian, you’ll likely have a solid group of people to walk with by the end of the first day. That was certainly the case for some Spanish-speaking friends of mine who walked the same route a couple of years earlier.
Our Spanish is barely-functional at best, certainly not good enough to be holding down conversations with native speakers. Coupled with comparatively low numbers of walkers overall, it took us a bit longer to meet people. Even so, we’d made a few acquaintances by the end of the first week, and had a solid Camino family by the time we got to the cathedral.
Getting To and From the Trail
Getting to Oviedo isn’t difficult. The nearest airport (Asturias) is on the coast about 30 miles north of the city, and buses run roughly every hour for much of the day. You may sometimes find a direct flight from the UK and other nearby countries, but otherwise you’ll be more likely to go via Barcelona or another large Spanish airport.
Long-distance train and bus services also run to Oviedo. The terminals are beside each other, within easy walking distance of the city centre. We’d spent a few days in the Basque country before starting the Primitivo, and took an ALSA bus from San Sebastian along the north coast to Oviedo. It took around 6.5 hours, and cost 27€ per person when booked three weeks in advance.
Getting back from Santiago is even easier. Flights depart regularly for other airports in Spain and several European countries. Long-distance trains and buses will also take you anywhere in Spain you’d like to go, albeit perhaps with a layover or two along the way. ALSA buses also run south to Porto and Lisbon in Portugal, with several stops along the way.
Public transport along the Primitvo route is relatively sparse, although it does exist. Lugo is reasonably well served, for example. If you want to get on or off the route somewhere else, it may require a taxi to the nearest larger town or city.
Bag Transport
We carried everything we needed for the Primitivo in our backpacks, but you don’t have to. The Spanish postal service (Correos) offers bag transportation services, where your pack gets collected from your accommodation each morning and dropped off at your intended destination before you arrive.
Hiking with just a daypack holding little more than water, snacks, and a jacket would certainly make life easier. Since you’re more likely to be booking your accommodation in advance on the Primitivo than some other Camino routes, this approach could work pretty well if it’s something you’re looking for.
Pricing is quite reasonable, from 4€ per bag per day if you’re booking several stages or an entire route. You can book your transport online or via email, phone, or WhatsApp the day before, and at least some of the albergues have forms like the one shown above that you can use as well.
Weather
Moreso than on many other Spanish Camino routes, the weather on the Primitivo can be unpredictable at any time of year. Because the first half in particular winds through the mountains, there’s a decent chance of fog, rain, and cool weather even when it’s bright sunshine elsewhere in the north of the country.
We walked during the first half of September, and were extremely lucky. There were only a couple of days where it rained, and even then it didn’t last the entire day. The rest of the walk was spent largely under blue skies and bright sunshine, although there was often some fog around in the morning.
Even the Hospitales detour, where you climb to 1200m and spend hours walking along an exposed ridgeline, was gloriously sunny. Windy, yes, but blue skies as far as the eye could see.
That said, what rain there was didn’t seem to drain away particularly quickly. If you like mud, rest assured, you’ll get plenty of it. If you don’t like mud, well, you’ll still get plenty of it. Especially if it’s rained recently, don’t expect clean boots at the end of the day.
It rarely got uncomfortably hot, even on the days we were walking late in to the afternoon. That’s a stark contrast to the other routes I’ve walked in Portugal and northern Spain at the same time of year, and a welcome one. It wasn’t until we descended from the mountains and joined the Frances route for the last couple of days that the heat became a factor.
You, of course, might not be so lucky with the weather. Warm clothes and a good waterproof layer are mandatory on the Primitivo, no matter what time of year you’re walking. It’s the only Camino route I’ve walked so far where I seriously considered taking waterproof boots. I’m glad I didn’t in the end, but would have a very different opinion if I’d had a week of rain!
Accommodation
While there’s plenty of accommodation in Oviedo, Lugo, and Santiago, options diminish quickly elsewhere and can fill up fast. I’m a firm believer in not booking ahead on the Camino since it eliminates the spontaneity that makes it so enjoyable, and yet by the midpoint we were booking rooms just like everyone else.
Why? Well, it had a lot to do with spending half an hour tracking down the very last room in Berducedo, having just walked 33km over the mountains to get there. The next town was apparently full as well, just to add to the urgency.
Even so, I dug my heels in about making bookings until a couple of days later. Just after lunch we were the first to arrive at a nice-sounding albergue in Fonsagrada, only to be told that every bed in the place had been reserved in advance. This was in the second week of September, theoretically after peak season was finished.
While finding a room wasn’t always easy, what accommodation there was was mostly pretty good. A few new albergues have been built in the last couple of years to cater for the increasing number of people walking the Primitivo, so hopefully the current shortage is somewhat temporary.
We stayed in a mix of municipal and private albergues, both dorms and private rooms, as well as pensions, hotels, and a monastery dating back to the 11th century. Per-person prices ranged from 5€ in the monastery to 35€ in a fancy hotel in Lugo.
As a general guide, expect to pay 5-7€ for a dorm bed in a municipal or religious albergue, 10-12€ for a dorm in a private albergue, and 17-25€ per person for a double room in an albergue or pension.
You’ll find some accommodation listed online on Booking.com, and we booked a couple of places that way. If your Spanish isn’t great, that’s probably the easiest way to do it when you can.
If booking online isn’t an option, it’s time for a phone call. I was usually able to make myself understood with my kindergarten Spanish, thanks more to the patience of the person on the other end of the line than my language skills. If you’re really not confident about it, just ask the person at your previous accommodation if they’d be happy to call on your behalf.
I go into more detail about each place in the day-by-day summary below. For the sake of having an accommodation list in one place, though, here’s everywhere we stayed along the Camino Primitivo with a link for more information where possible.
Apps and Guidebooks
Printed guidebook options are rarer for the Camino Primitivo than the more popular routes. The (in)famous Brierley guidebooks so beloved of English speakers on other Caminos don’t cover the Primitivo, so your best option is the Camino del Norte and Camino Primitivo guide from Cicerone.
Having been happy with app-based guides on other Caminos, though, I didn’t bother with a physical one for the Primitivo either. As with the books there aren’t many electronic guides available, but a few do exist.
I tried out a few different apps before leaving, and settled on Buen Camino (Android/iOS). I also saved a few online guides to my phone as PDFs, but didn’t really end up using them. The app covered all of my needs, from food, drink, and accommodation to distances and GPS maps.
It was straightforward to edit the suggested daily stages to suit ourselves, and to figure out how far we’d have to walk each day. Information was largely up to date, albeit with the occasional price change or new albergue that hadn’t made it into the app yet.
A word of warning, though: Buen Camino was great at the time (September 2019), but a major update since then has made it less reliable, at least on Android. Using it again while writing this post, it worked fine on one of my phones and barely at all on the other. If you’re planning to rely on it, my advice is to test it out thoroughly before you go.
While you’ll be able to rely on Wi-Fi being available in most albergues and some bars, being able to get online while you’re walking helps with everything from loading maps to booking your next albergue.
Cell service is good along most (not all) parts of the Primitivo. Unless you’ve got free or very cheap roaming with your home cell company, picking up a Spanish eSIM before leaving home or local SIM card when you arrive will save you a bunch of money.
Food and Drink
I’m not going to lie: as great as the Primitivo was in many ways, the food outside the cities was not one of them. We ate well in Oviedo, Lugo, Melide, Santiago, and occasionally elsewhere, but in general the meals were a method of replenishing the calories we’d burned that day and not much more.
Walkers (especially vegetarians and vegans) complain about the food on every Camino route, but in my experience at least, it was a little fresher and more varied on the Frances and especially Portuguese routes than on the Primitivo.
Restaurants and bars in small villages in rural Spain don’t always have the resources available to whip up wonderful meals at the drop of a hat, especially if they’re only getting a handful of walkers eating there each day. Stale bread and soggy chips were a staple, usually with some kind of protein in the form of chicken, pork, or as we got closer to the coast, seafood.
Menus de peregrino (pilgrim menus) weren’t always available, especially in the very small villages, but provided good value for money when they were. As with every other route I’ve walked in Spain, drinkable wine was always provided in large quantities for very little money. Another good reason to walk a Camino!
Breakfasts consisted of whatever happened to be available. Tortilla española was fairly common, but sadly my staple pan con tomate from earlier Caminos was rarely on the menu. Sometimes, it was just a shot of espresso and a piece of yesterday’s fruit. That said, if you like pastries, you’ll usually have more options. My body doesn’t tolerate cow’s milk, so I took to keeping a bit of extra food in my bag instead just in case.
Lunch was, more often than not, a bocadillo. Occasionally this was a delight, huge chunks of fresh baguette full of fresh salad and ham, tuna, or pork loin. Most of the time, however, it was… not so delightful. Now and then we’d find a great little bar or restaurant to stop at for lunch, and took full advantage. In general, though, the long, luxurious lunch breaks of my other Caminos were a distant memory.
Once we hit Melide (home to the best Galacian-style octopus I’ve eaten anywhere) and joined the Frances route for the final stretch into Santiago, the food options and quality noticeably increased in proportion with the number of other walkers.
Packing List
Even though I’d walked most of my other Caminos in September as well, I still put a bit of thought into my packing list for the Primitivo due to its reputation for long days and bad weather.
As mentioned earlier, I seriously considered buying waterproof hiking shoes (most likely the waterproof version ) of the Merrell Moab 3 that I usually wear, but didn’t bother in the end. At the end of a couple of the long, hot days toward the end in particular, my feet were thanking me for the extra ventilation.
In the end, the changes I made from earlier Caminos were quite small. My long-sleeved Icebreaker merino top was starting to wear out anyway, so I bought a slightly thicker version of the same thing. I also swapped out the flip-flops I usually wear at the end of the day for some lightweight travel sneakers, replaced my sleeping bag and water bottle, and bought a different brand of socks.
I try to keep my bag under about 10% of my body weight. For me, that means everything I need to stay safe and comfortable, including water and snacks, needs to come in under 7-8kg. I managed that on the Primitivo, but only just. My backpack was the Osprey Talon 44 that I’ve reviewed separately in the past, and it was ideal.
Rather than recreating everything here, I just updated my Camino packing list instead. It’s been a work in progress over the course of a thousand miles, tweaked and modified after each Camino, and I think it’s pretty close to a final version now. I guess we’ll see after I walk the next one!
Finally, don’t forget travel insurance. While most pilgrims suffer little more than a few blisters and the occasional bruise or scratch, a small minority end up with more serious illness and injuries, and hospital bills and replacement flight costs can mount up very quickly.
I’ve used many different providers over the years, but these days generally start with Heymondo. I’ve found them to be an affordable and reliable option, whether I’m only after medical cover or want a policy that handles things like theft and damage, missed flights, and lost luggage as well. Compared to some of the others, the website is refreshingly simple and does a good job of explaining exactly what I’m buying.
Costs
Like most of the other Spanish and Portuguese Camino routes in particular, the Primitivo can be walked very cheaply. You could set yourself a daily budget of 20€ and stay inside it quite easily, as long as you were happy to stay in a municipal or parochial (ie, religious) albergue whenever you could and self-cater some of your meals.
Likewise, you could easily spend double or triple that if you stay in private rooms or hotels, dine at higher-end restaurants, and enjoy plenty of the local vintage along the way. While it’s very possible to walk the Camino on a tight budget, it’s not a given that you will.
Other than your gear, the only cost you’ll incur before you start walking the Camino is your credential, or pilgrim passport. Stamps in this cardboard booklet mark your progress, and if you want a completion certificate from the pilgrim office in Santiago, you’ll need a pilgrim passport with one or two stamps per day for at least the last 100km of your route.
Many albergues, especially municipal ones, will also ask to see your credential to ensure you’re actually walking or biking the Camino and not just wandering in off the street. Any accommodation aimed at walkers will have a stamp, as will many bars and cafes along the way and even some roadside chapels and other buildings.
You can order a credential online from various sources, but I’ve never bothered. Assuming you begin from a major city, you’ll be able to pick one up from the cathedral that marks the start of the route. The Primitivo is no exception: we bought ours from the ticket office inside Oviedo Cathedral, for the princely sum of 2€ each.
As a rough guide, breakfast will typically set you back a couple of euros for a pastry and coffee, and a bit more if you have tortilla and/or orange juice. A bocadillo and soft drink, beer, or wine for lunch usually costs around 5€, and a menu de peregrino is about 10€ for three courses (starter, main, and dessert) plus wine or water.
As a result, if you’d prefer to eat out for every meal, not be too concerned about an extra cup of coffee or glass of wine here and there, and stay in private albergues more frequently, expect to spend 25-30€/day. Dorm beds usually cost 5-15€ depending on how new the albergue is and whether it’s privately-run or not.
Private rooms, on the other hand, typically costs anything from around 30€ at the low end (small single room with a shared bathroom in a municipal albergue) to 40-50€ for a double room in a pension or private albergue. Hotels may cost a bit more, and on the Primitivo you’ll really only find them in the cities.
Don’t expect single rooms to be available in all (or indeed, many) albergues or pensions, but double, twin, and triple rooms are more common. Some places offer a single occupancy rate for a twin room that’s a little cheaper.
My daily costs varied more on this Camino than others I’ve walked, primarily because it was the first one I’ve walked with my girlfriend. In the past I’d stayed almost entirely in dorms, but we splashed out on private rooms about two-thirds of the time on the Primitivo. Sometimes that was by choice (more sleep is good), sometimes it was by necessity when they were the only beds left in town.
The least I spent on any day was 17€, and the most was 63€ thanks to a big celebratory meal with friends in Santiago . The average per day was 39€.
The Walk Itself
All distances mentioned below are approximate. They were recorded on my Fitbit, which doesn’t use GPS and usually over-estimates mileage a bit. You can probably take 5% or so off the listed numbers.
Day 0: Oviedo
Arriving mid-afternoon after the lengthy bus ride from San Sebastian, we only had a few hours to explore Oviedo. It’s an attractive little city, especially in the old part of town, with some beautiful stone buildings and spacious town squares.
Ditching our bags at our accommodation (the modern and spotlessly-clean Hotel Rosal), the first stop was the nearby cathedral. We needed to pick up our pilgrim passports, and it made more sense to find the start point when we had plenty of time that afternoon than hurriedly the next morning.
That process took about three minutes, after which we spent the next couple of hours wandering around enjoying the sunshine and trying to find anywhere serving food and wine for an early dinner. Of course, “early dinner” by Spanish standards is about 8pm, so while the the wine wasn’t hard to track down, the food took a bit more work.
We eventually ended up at Sidrería Tierra Astur Parrilla, which as the name implies, specialises in the local cider that the Asturias region is renowned for. Typically poured into the glass from above the waiter’s head, it’s no surprise the floors in these establishments are wooden and easy to mop down.
The cider was unusual and tasty, the food was heavy and meat-based, and there was more of both than two average-sized humans probably needed. The perfect preparation for two weeks of hiking, I guess!
We’d planned to explore more of the city after dinner, but with bellies full of food and a cold wind cutting through the evening sunshine like a knife, our feet carried us back to the hotel without bothering to discuss the idea with our brains first. Tomorrow, we’d walk!
Day 1: Oviedo to Paladin
After a quick breakfast of coffee and pinchos at a nearby bar, we posed in the chilly morning mist for a couple of photos outside the cathedral, glanced up at the sign pointing toward Santiago, and set off.
Someone in Oviedo had the foresight to embed metal shells in the pavement to mark the route out of town, which worked wonderfully for about three minutes until we missed one and ended up wandering aimlessly through the city past well-dressed men and women on their way to work. Great start, Dave.
Back on track, we picked up a couple of other walkers who were both starting their first Camino, and together our small group headed west. It didn’t take long to leave what passed for suburbia behind, the mist burning off as we had our first coffee stop at a small bar a couple of hours later.
We made good time into Escamplero: too good, in fact, as the only bar in town that was open that day didn’t start serving food until the better part of an hour later. Oh well, any excuse for a long lunch break and a couple of large glasses of wine in the sun, I guess.
We’d toyed with the idea of staying in Escamplero that night, but refreshed after our endless lunch and with plenty of time left in the day, we chose to keep going. Perfect blue skies and some lovely woodland trails rewarded that decision, and it wasn’t until right at the end that we had any real road walking.
Villa Palatina was virtually brand new, and one of the nicest private albergues I’ve stayed in on any Camino. It’s hard to complain about anything when you’re sitting on a grassy lawn enjoying a kalimotxo (red wine and Coke over ice…don’t knock it til you’ve tried it) in the last of the afternoon sun.
With no other accommodation, bars, or restaurants around, dinner was at the albergue. Fortunately it was delicious, with grilled sardines the highlight. Another drink and bed by 10pm, just in time for the snoring to start from the neighbouring bunk. It wouldn’t be a Camino without it.
Total distance: 22.3 km (13.8 miles). Bed in 8-person dorm: 15€
Day 2: Paladin to Cornellana
Rising suitably unrefreshed, we grabbed a light breakfast at the albergue bar and headed out into the mist once more. With only a short day planned, there was no rush, and we ambled along beside the river toward Grado and second breakfast.
The highlight of this stretch was undoubtedly the Asturian horses galloping wildly around a little paddock just outside town. Look at those tiny chonky boys!
That was definitely more of a highlight than what lay in store on the other side of Grado: a long, hot uphill slog. As usual, though, the views almost made up for the sweat and sore feet. That’s what I was telling myself, at least.
The descent on the other side of the hill was nearly as steep, and I found myself speeding down the cracked concrete roadway. Probably a good thing, really, as it didn’t give me time to think about the small snake on the side of the road as I passed it at a near-jog. At least it was dead. Probably.
Ambling into Santa Eulalia at the bottom of the hill, I was hoping for food and ended up settling for a warm Coke at a table in what looked for all the world like an extension of someone’s living room, but was advertised as a bar and albergue. It was, of course, all three.
Mildly unnerved by the unyielding stare of both the owner and the solitary other customer who looked like he’d been sitting there since Alfonso II himself wandered these parts, we kept going. It was only another 3km through some pretty woodland to the 11th-century Monastery of San Salvador in Cornellana, our planned stop for the night.
We were one of the first to arrive, and after paying our 5€ donation and being pointed to a dorm full of empty bunks, we headed back out past the crumbling walls to track down lunch. The minimal menu at La Taberna promised little, but the huge plate of roast chicken and chips turned out to be surprisingly delicious. Or maybe we were just starving.
The delights of Cornellana didn’t take long to explore, but we dragged them out until we could join the locals and few other walkers for 1€ buckets glasses of wine in the evening outside a bar on the main street. Not a terrible way to end the day.
Total distance: 20.1 km (12.5 miles). Bed in a 12-person dorm: 5€
Day 3: Cornellana to La Espina
Perhaps it was the religious setting, but a Camino miracle had delivered a shocking lack of snorers overnight. Waking up with the sun instead of a stranger’s nasal symphony is a rare treat in any albergue, and I savoured every non-waking minute of it.
We walked the five minutes back to the main street for breakfast, and set off under clearing skies…straight up the side of a mountain. Lung-busting climbs were already becoming a theme of this Camino, but so were the views and lack of road walking, so no complaints from me. Not that I had the breath for them anyway.
There was nowhere to stop until Salas, over 10km away, but those dirt trails and cool temperatures meant the miles passed quickly. It had been slowly clouding over as we walked, though, and by the time we finished our uninspiring baguettes for lunch, the rain was starting to fall. It wasn’t heavy, but it was persistent. Time to break out the Quasimodo poncho.
With the rain came the hills, and it was a slow, steady, and damp trudge for the next couple of hours. The views would have been lovely on a clear day, but this wasn’t one. Not that we really had much chance to look at the views anyway: avoiding the worst of the mud was a bigger priority.
The rain slowed to a drizzle as we entered La Espina, which seemed as good a place as any to stop. The town didn’t have much going on during a drizzly Thursday afternoon in September, but we found an open bar at the end of town where we could watch the rain fall and sip wine for an hour or two.
Accommodation for the night was at El Texu, a nice, homely albergue run by a lovely Polish woman named Kaisa who offered a home-cooked dinner to us and the group of Italian friends who’d come in shortly after us. We’d end up crossing paths with them most days for the rest of the walk.
The albergue had a grassy seating area out the front that would have been lovely on a sunny day, and a fridge stacked with beer, wine, and soft drinks paid for via an honesty box. Despite the weather, it was my kind of place!
Total distance: 23 km (14.3 miles), bed in 18-person dorm: 10€
Day 4: La Espina to Campiello
My diary note for the morning reads “Snoring all night, alarms at 5 and 5:30am, bag rustling for two hours: welcome to the Camino.” There’s nothing more to add.
After breakfast at a nearby bar, we dragged our tired bodies out of town under overcast skies. It had rained again overnight, and the muddy trails of the day before were now definitely more mud than trail. Luckily the cold wind soon blew the clouds away, and we were hiking under sunny skies again by mid-morning as we climbed ever-higher.
The views were incredible, and combined with the sunny but cool weather, made this one of the better days of walking I’ve done on any Camino. There were no towns or villages for the first 11km, but the pace was pretty quick once we got past the muddy sections of trail, and we found ourselves descending into Tineo right on lunchtime.
Bar Tineo was an unexpected gem. A little restaurant with all the ambiance of a church hall, we chose it primarily because it was open. The owner wisely gave up on trying to understand my appalling Spanish, and instead just ushered us to a table, gave us water and wine, and motioned for us to wait.
Ingredients came and went from the kitchen, clattering of dishes ensued, and out came some of the most delicious fish soup I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating. Paired with baskets of bread beforehand and platefuls of fried chicken afterward, we definitely weren’t hungry by the time we were sent on our way an hour later. 10€ well spent!
The trail kept rising, the weather and views kept improving, and the afternoon flew by. The last 3km along the road into Campiello were a bit of a slog on what was now a pretty warm afternoon, but all in all it had been a fantastic day of walking.
After the lack of sleep of the night before, we opted for a private room at Casa Herminia. There are only a couple of albergues in Campiello, and Casa Hermiana was definitely trying to be a one-stop pilgrim shop. It offered everything from meals, drinks, and accommodation to groceries, hiking equipment, souvenirs, and whatever else your hiker’s heart desired.
After the usual go-round of showers and doing laundry in the sink, we spent the rest of the day much like every other: wine at the bar, dinner in the restaurant, and bed. It was an early night: we’d be hiking the (in)famous Hospitales route the next day.
Total distance: 26.4 km (16.4 miles), double room: 20€ per person.
A Note on the Hospitales Route
Just after the village of Borres, about an hour out of Campiello, the Primitivo splits. The lower route is slightly longer, going via Pola de Allande and staying at comparatively low altitude until a steep 600m climb up to Puerto del Palo (and an even steeper descent down the other side.)
The higher “Hospitales” route rises more gradually up to 1000m+, but stays there for a good part of the day until the routes rejoin at Puerto del Palo. With the exception of the small Sanblismo albergue at the start, there are no towns, villages, or services of any kind on the Hospitales route: once you’ve left Borres, that’s it until you get to Berducedo 25km later.
The remains of four medieval pilgrim hospitals are dotted along this section (hence the name), which gives some idea of how tough it can be. Even with beautifully sunny weather like we had, it’s a long, hard day, with strong gusts and exposed conditions along the ridgeline. In bad weather it can be downright dangerous, you’ll see nothing, and there are few options for shelter once you’re up on the mountain.
In return for the challenges, though, come easily the best views I’ve encountered on any Camino. The surrounding countryside was absolutely gorgeous, and with few other walkers around, we had long stretches where the only sounds were birds, the tinkling bells of wandering sheep, and our own laboured breathing. If the weather’s good, this should definitely be your first choice.
If you think you might want to walk the Hospitales route, you need to arrange your earlier stages so that you stay in Campiello, Borres, or Sanblismo the night before. Any further back than that, and you’re looking at a nearly 50km day over the mountains.
Even then, check the weather forecast carefully, and ask the locals if you’re not sure. There’s no shame in decided to take the lower route based on the conditions, and either split it into two short days staying in Pola de Allande overnight, or one long, tough one into Berducedo.
If you’re walking the Hospitales, take plenty of food and water, protection from sun and rain, and enjoy the views!
Day 5: Campiello to Berducedo
The weather had been clear the night before, and was just the same when we woke up before dawn. With no rain in the forecast, the decision made: we were taking the Hospitales route today.
What a great decision that turned out to be.
We were walking by 8am, after the world’s largest cup of coffee at the albergue bar. The staff were happy to open up the supermarket so we could grab supplies: mostly fruit, nuts, cured meat, and anything else with lots of calories in a small package.
The first 3km to Borres was flat and unexciting, but everything changed from the minute we took the Hospitales turnoff. The track turned uphill, and didn’t really flatten out again for several hours.
If my breath hadn’t been taken away by the climb, it would have been by the views. I know I’ve kept saying how good they were on previous days, but this was the pinnacle in every sense of the word — the point where the two routes converge is the highest on the Primitivo.
Before that, though, lay several kilometres of exceptional walking. There were few other people on the trail, usually seen from a distance, so it felt like we had this incredible stretch of countryside all to ourselves. The Hospitales route is often covered in cloud and fog, so having clear skies in every direction felt like a blessing from the Camino gods.
Taking one look at the steepness of the trail ahead, we stopped for a snack break beside the ruins of Hospital de Paradiella with only the cows for company. It was a beautiful spot, but just one of many throughout the day. Slogging our way up the hills, we swapped the cows for a herd of those awesome Asturian horses before finally getting to the ridgeline and the trail flattening out. Well, comparatively, at least.
With no shelter from the wind any longer, the cooling breeze we’d had all morning became an icy blast whipping up the valley. I wasn’t sad about it — the sweat had been pouring off me — but on a different day, it’s not something I would have enjoyed walking in for hours!
The next section passed quickly, even with a lazy lunch break in a rare sheltered spot. The views, of course, were not getting any worse.
The upper and lower paths finally converged and for about half a second we thought the hardest part was over. And then we looked down.
The descent to the hamlet of Montefurado (population: one person, many cows) is around 300m over less than two kilometres, on a stony track that was very slippery in dry conditions. I can only imagine what it would have been like in the rain. As it was, Lauren spent more time on her butt than on her feet, and I was sorely tempted to be a human toboggan as well.
I ended up alongside the trail more than on it, where the ground was much more rough and uneven but at least I had some grip most of the time. Let’s just say it was not a fast descent for either of us.
It was a long 7km from Montefurado to Berducedo, the first place with any accommodation, and while the descent and final walk through the forest were pretty enough, we were definitely ready to stop by the time we staggered into town in the late afternoon.
We’d noticed that the municipal albergue was closed for a refit on the way in, and when we saw a sign outside one of the other albergues saying the owners were on holiday, our chances of finding somewhere to sleep took a sudden nosedive.
Unsurprisingly all of the beds at the main bar/albergue in town were taken, and when we mentioned that to someone sitting outside, he said there were no beds in the next village (A Mesa) either. Hmm. I was starting to see taxi rides to somewhere off-trail in our very near future.
After wandering around fruitlessly for a while longer, a kindly local noticed our plight and pointed us toward Hostel Rural Camin Antiguo. The grumpy owner shouting down from her balcony demonstrated the truth of the bad online reviews, but while the dorm beds were all taken, she was happy to overcharge us for the last remaining twin room.
After nine hours and over 30km of walking, let’s just say budgetary concerns took a back seat. The room was nothing special, but it had a hot shower and non-lumpy mattresses. That’s all we needed, and it was certainly better than sleeping in a ditch on the side of the road.
We had drinks (several) and dinner (massive) back at the main bar, and collapsed into bed as soon as it got dark. What a day!
Total distance: 32.6 km (20.3 miles), twin room: 25€ per person
Day 6: Berducedo to Grandas de Salime
Helped by the lack of breakfast options at the only open bar in town the following morning, we were on the road just as the sun peeked over the horizon. Cool and mostly flat for the hour or so into A Mesa, it got warmer and much less flat immediately afterward.
Passing several wind turbines at the top of the lengthy uphill, thick cloud coated the valley below us. Dropping through it was quite eerie, not helped by the blackened stumps of trees all around us thanks to a large forest fire that ripped through the area back in 2017.
Once we got below the cloud layer, though, gorgeous views awaited. You used to be able to walk across the valley until 1954, when it was flooded as part of a hydro dam project. The walk is now much longer, since you have to walk across the dam itself, but at least you get scenic views while you do it.
It’s a long old descent from the top of the hill down the dam, dropping around 800m over the course of around 8km of switchbacked dirt trail. Steep in parts, it was still easier overall than the precipitous drop into Montefurado the day before, but my knees weren’t loving me by the time we finally got to the bottom and crossed the dam.
The crumbling infrastructure alongside wasn’t anywhere near as pretty as the reservoir itself, but on the upside, the terrace of the bright-yellow Hotel Las Grandas beckoned on the other side. Filled with other walkers, it had that friendly, buzzing Camino vibe I’d enjoyed on other routes but struggled to find so far on the Primitivo.
The views were lovely, the bocadillo was delicious, and the ice-cold Coke disappeared in about three seconds flat. You can spend the night there if you so desire, and I seriously considered it on the strength of that bread roll alone. It took a long time to find the motivation to keep moving.
When we finally found it, we were rewarded by an uphill slog along the road almost all the way to Grandas de Salime. Not much of a reward really, but at least the town itself was nice, if pretty quiet on a Sunday afternoon.
We opted for the municipal albergue, which had the advantage of being cheap, and the disadvantages of large, cramped dorms and flooded bathrooms. Still, it had beds available, and for that we were grateful.
It had been a relatively short day, so we had plenty of time to kill. Most of that time was spent either eating, drinking, or lying in a park…which, lets be honest, is a pretty good way to spend any afternoon. Shoutout to the surprisingly good hamburgers for dinner at Cafe de Jaime.
Total distance: 24.2 km (15 miles). Bed in 12-person dorm: 6€
Day 7: Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada
Given that the rest of our dorm room was made up almost entirely of large middle-aged male cyclists, there was less overnight snoring than I might have expected. Less doesn’t mean none, however, and when I leaned over the side of my bunk at 5:45am to see Lauren staring back at me, we decided to just get up and go.
Walking in the dark on any Camino is always an odd mix of enjoying the peace and tranquility, and a continual mild concern that you’ll miss an arrow and end up miles off-trail. As I learned, having a GPS map on your phone does wonders for the latter and leaves more head space for the former.
The sun didn’t start to come up until just outside the village of Castro, where I’d half-expected to find a bar serving breakfast. If it existed, I didn’t spot it. No coffee for me, but at least the road walking of the previous hour gave away to softer trails. That was welcome, even if the thick fog and steep climb was less exciting.
The fog was so thick that I almost missed the tiny bar at O Acebo at the top of the pass. Lauren was a bit behind me at this point, and actually did miss it. Luckily she realised after a few minutes and backtracked, otherwise we’d probably still be searching for each other to this day.
Having crossed from Asturias into Galicia shortly before, it was time for my first Santiago tart of this Camino. This almond-based cake is common in this part of Spain, rare outside it, and one of the few desserts I can eat (no lactose!) As a result, if I see it on the menu, there’s a good chance I’ll be ordering it.
Washed down with a strong coffee, and with the bar now full to the brim with other walkers, we headed back out into the gloom. Not for long, though: like the day before, we descended below the cloud layer and into sunshine for the rest of the walk.
Despite the long climb and descent, the day had felt relatively easy overall as we approached Fonsagrada. Lucky, then, there was one final steep ascent to get up into the town. The Camino Primitivo: There’s Always a Hill. If that’s not the official slogan yet, it should be.
Due to that early start, we arrived in Fonsagrada around 1pm and headed to the lovely-sounding Canterbrico albergue and pension. Apparently we weren’t the only ones who thought it sounded nice: despite being the first walkers to get there that day, every bed had already been reserved. Half a dozen backpacks that had been transported by van sat neatly lined up beside the door awaiting their owners.
The staff member was nice enough to call one of the other places in town, Casa Manolo, and confirm there was a double room available there for us. The change of plans wasn’t a big deal, but helped make up my mind about booking ahead for the rest of the walk, at least for smaller villages. The bed race was real. Sigh.
The room at Casa Manolo was plain, but the shower was exceptional, and the restaurant downstairs did a decent pulpo (octopus)-based pilgrim menu for 15€. Small victories.
Wandering around the town afterward, we ran into a group of Italian, Spanish, and Swiss guys on the street that we’d vaguely got to know over the last few days, and stood around chatting about nothing and everything for ages. Slowly but surely, the Camino vibe was starting to grow.
Total distance: 26.7 km (16.6 miles). Double room: 20€ per person
Day 8: A Fonsagrada to Cadabo
Today was my birthday, and after waking up in the night to heavy rain, it had looked like my present was going to be getting soaked for eight hours. Luckily the downpour turned into more of a light drizzle by daybreak, which came and went all morning. Cloud, sun, wind, rain, rinse and repeat.
We left Fonsagrada just before dawn, walking through damp woodland for a while before starting a long, mostly gradual climb through the forest. With the weather changing every five minutes, it wasn’t unusual to climb up one side of a hill in sunshine, and be hit by rain and a howling gale on the other. Fun times.
At the top of the rise lay a cluster of wind turbines. Given that I was being almost blown off my feet at the time, it didn’t take much imagination to figure out why they’d been put there. Right alongside lay the remains of a medieval pilgrim hostel, the crumbling stone walls a stark contrast to the gleaming white turbines behind them.
The descent from the top was straightforward but long, and by the time we approached the Casa Meson bar at Paradavella, my stomach was definitely rumbling. Full of other walkers, the staff were doing a great job of taking orders, slinging coffees and soft drinks left and right, and keeping everybody fed and watered.
Fresh bread had been a rare luxury on the trail in Asturias, but we were in Galicia now, and things were different. Very different. My tuna and olive bocadillo was the tastiest (and probably, largest) lunch I’d had in a week. There was no way that Lauren and I needed one each. We ordered one each anyway, and didn’t regret it for a second.
The temperature dropped and the rain came back as we were finishing up, which was all the incentive we needed to keep moving. We were both shivering as we set off, but the long, steep uphill soon afterward dealt with that problem. Up, down, up, down, it’s the Primitivo way.
The weather stayed unpredictable during the afternoon as well, although at least there was a bit more sun and a bit less rain. We arrived in Cadabo around 2.30pm, walking past the municipal albergue that was apparently already full. Because of course it was.
Luckily we’d booked a room at Albergue San Mateo (I didn’t plan to celebrate my birthday by sleeping in a barn), which followed the trend of being plain, perfectly serviceable, and offering much more sleep than a dorm! The shower was nicer than the room itself, which was a bit unusual.
Sitting outside in the fleeting sunshine with a bottle of cider, I contemplated another birthday on the Camino. This was the second time I’d done it (the first was on the Frances when I turned 40), and it was hard to think of a better way to celebrate.
The weather soon clouded over again, so after a ten-minute wander to explore the highlights of Cadabo (there weren’t many), it was the usual Camino combo of a pilgrim menu dinner at the albergue restaurant and an early night.
Total distance: 26.3 km (16.3 miles). Double room: 17.50€ per person
Day 9: Cadabo to Lugo
Coffee for breakfast again, and out into the early-morning mist around 7:30am. We met Cailyn on the way out of town, a fellow walker from Seattle who’d walked half the Camino del Norte before dropping down onto the Primitivo. With almost everyone else we’d met being Spanish or Italian, finding a fellow native English speaker felt like a rare treat, and we chatted all the way to a breakfast stop in Castroverde nearly two hours later.
A couple of Danish guys she knew showed up shortly afterward, and we sat around slurping coffee and swapping hiking stories for ages. Nobody was in a hurry to move on, and so for nearly an hour, nobody did.
The mountain section of our Primitivo was now over, and it showed. The trail was much flatter and easier today, but also less pretty, with most of the walking being through farmland and tiny villages. We made good time, helped by there being hardly any services for the 22km between Castroverde and Lugo: just a vending machine in the middle of nowhere, and an outdoor cafe beside an albergue in Vilar de Cas with coffee, cold drinks, and cake.
Coming into a proper city like Lugo was a shock after several days of small towns and villages, but our fancy accommodation was an even bigger surprise. Lauren’s birthday present for me was a night at Puerta de San Pedro, and the crisp linens and well-dressed clientele were quite the contrast to lumpy dorm beds and stinky hikers like us.
Lugo itself was an attractive city, with fortified Roman walls that stretch around the entire old town. I amused myself by wandering around the inner city and on top of the walls for a while (apparently the 30km I’d walked to get there wasn’t enough…), until I was waved over to an outdoor table in the main square by a few other hikers we’d got to know along the way. The wine flowed, the tales got ever-less believable, and the pain in my feet disappeared for a couple of hours. Good times.
Not used to having more than two options of where to eat for dinner, we dawdled around for ages trying to decide before ending up in Cafetaria Abrente, a little outside the city walls. Just like the restaurant in Tineo several days before, it had zero ambiance, impressively-good food, and friendly staff. I’d go back in a heartbeat.
Total distance: 30.1 km (18.7 miles). Double room: 37.50€ per person
Day 10: Lugo to San Romao
After eating far too much of the breakfast buffet at the hotel, we set off into the mist around 8am. Signs and shells guided us past the cathedral, over the Roman bridge, and up a steep hill (of course) as we headed out of town.
After a week and a half, this was the first day of the Primitivo spent mostly walking on the road rather than soft trails. That’s a much better ratio than the other routes I’ve walked, but even so, the hard surface took its toll on our feet and knees. The fog had burned off by mid-morning, and the idea of a long, hot day on tarmac became less appealing with each passing step.
There were still a few highlights, of course, including the mid-morning snack at the fanciest vending machine I’ve ever seen (set in its own little shelter with a bathroom, microwave, seating area, and Google Maps rating printed out and stuck on the wall), and the traffic jam caused by a dog cheerfully leading his flock of sheep down a country lane.
We hobbled into Albergue O Candido in the tiny hamlet of San Romao early afternoon, to find pretty much everyone we’d met along the route sitting outside eating lunch.
Some of them were staying the night there, others were continuing on a bit further, but our throbbing feet combined with the hammocks and very large glasses of wine on offer sealed the deal for us. A short day it was going to be!
A long snooze in the hammock answered the question of what I was going to do with the rest of my afternoon, followed by dinner and drinks with some acquaintances who quickly became friends. It had ended up being a really social day all around, and that coupled with the short distance made it particularly enjoyable. Yay!
Total distance: 20.2 km (12.6 miles). Double room: 17€ per person
Day 11: San Romao to Melide
With little in the way of accommodation between Lugo and Melide, a shorter day yesterday inevitably meant a longer day today. We expected it to be hot and full of road walking as well, and in the end it lived up (down) to all three expectations.
Starting out early to try to beat at least some of the heat, we were walking by 6:45am. It was the right decision, with two or three hours of quiet, cool conditions before the sun really got going. There was nowhere open for more than a drink all morning, but I really liked the donation-based coffee and homemade art stall in a tiny hamlet somewhere around the 10km mark.
The day heated up super-fast after that, just in time for the occasional gravel and dirt trails to disappear completely in favour of asphalt and concrete. Great. We stopped for a snack in the last of the shade, shortly after spotting Melide from the top of a small hill.
It didn’t look all that far away, but we knew it was at least 10km, and felt every single minute of the 2+ hours it took to get there. The final slog through the suburbs was particularly tough, with no shade and sweltering heat reflecting from the road and concrete buildings.
Melide is where the Camino Primitivo joins up with the Camino Frances, and it couldn’t have been more obvious. Having seen no more than a hanful of other walkers for the last 11 days, we walked into the city to what felt like a near-riot of other pilgrims. I’m sure it was no worse than when I’d walked the Frances myself four years earlier, but the sudden change was pretty jarring this time around.
With plenty of accommodation in Melide there’d been no need to book somewhere in advance, and we picked Albergue Pereiro at random. It was a good choice, with modern, near-new double rooms out the back and plenty of space in the outdoor courtyard.
What I was most excited about, however, was a return visit to Pulperia a Garnacha. Done right, Galician-style octopus is incredibly delicious, and the pulpo at Garnacha is definitely done right.
I’d eaten a huge plate of the signature dish at this restaurant four years earlier, and I was determined to introduce Lauren to its delights. She’d heard me go on about it for nearly half a decade, after all.
Luckily for both of us, it was just as good as I remembered. Washed down with wine, plus plenty of bread and boiled potatoes to keep the carb levels high, we’d walked in starving and left full to bursting. If you like octopus and find yourself in Melide, you really need to eat here.
Total distance: 27.8 km (17.3 miles). Double room: 20€ per person
Day 12: Melide to A Brea
With another hot day in store, we were up early to make the most of the cool pre-dawn conditions. Inevitably, then, we left our hiking poles behind at the front door as we exited the albergue via the (self-locking) rear gate. Cue half an hour of waiting around in the dark for someone else to leave so we could get back inside to retrieve them. Sigh.
With that out of the way, we strode purposefully out of town. For an hour or so, at least, until we arrived in Boente and saw El Aleman, a stylish German albergue and cafe that looked brand-new and was advertising breakfast. The coffee was good, the bread was even better, and the owner was super-friendly. Say what you will about the Frances route, but it’s well set up for walkers.
I’d remembered a lot of road walking on the final couple of days from Melide, but apparently my memory is fading in my old age. There definitely wasn’t as much as I’d expected, but the next couple of hours into Arzua were still a bit of a slog, especially towards the end when the sun was out in full force.
Arzua is quite a large town, but not a particularly attractive one along the main street. Still, that’s where the arrows point, so that’s where we went. After stopping for a Coke at what I’m almost certain was the same cafe I stopped at for the same thing four years earlier, we pushed on into some woodland and welcome shade.
After a close encounter with some cows and a surprisingly-good bocadillo for lunch at Bar Lino just outside Outeiro (any excuse to get out of the sun for a while), we spent the afternoon wandering slowly toward A Brea. I’d hoped to get a little further, but the promise of a swimming pool at Pension ‘The Way’ lured us in.
In the end the pool was freezing, but the outdoor setting was lovely and the large glasses of wine even lovelier. Our double room with shared bathroom was a bit overpriced for what it was, but the husband and wife that ran the place were friendly and helpful, and cooked up a mean group dinner for the dozen or so walkers staying there. Highlight: home-made coffee liqueur to finish. I don’t know what was in it, but it was delicious!
Sadly this place didn’t survive the pandemic, and has now closed down. It’s a shame–I’d definitely recommend staying there otherwise!
Total distance: 27.8 km (17.3 miles). Double room: 22.50€ per person
Day 13: A Brea to Santiago
Our last early start, and another one of those cool, clear mornings that makes walking before dawn so worthwhile. The volume of other walkers and cyclists grew steadily all day, in terms of both numbers and sound, as the final rush to the cathedral took over.
Before that, though, lay a couple of hours of soft trails and quiet woodland. Being a Sunday, several of the cafes and bars were closed, so it took a while until we found a roadside bar in O Pedrouzo for breakfast. Fortified by carbs and strong coffee, we pushed on past the chain link fence surrounding Santiago airport and back into the forest.
It’s funny how close the airport seems to the city when you’re taking a bus between them, and how far apart they seem on foot. Grabbing a quick lunch in Lavacolla alongside several dozen other walkers, it was time for the final uphill of this Camino.
Topping out at Monte de Gozo, a small hill overlooking Santiago with a large pilgrim monument at the top, we grabbed a drink from the nearby kiosk and savoured the view. You can’t quite see the cathedral from there, but the end was very much in sight.
Down the hill and through the eastern suburbs we walked, and the hour of concrete monotony was just as hot, ugly, and dull as the previous time. Entering from the south, which you do on the Portuguese route, is a far nicer experience. Even so, the excitement was palpable as we joined the stream of pilgrims walking through the heart of the city.
The sound of Galician bagpipes filled the air as we walked through the final archway and out into Praza do Obradoiro. Turning to face the cathedral was breathtaking, even moreso than my other Caminos because the scaffolding that had covered the front for many years was no longer there.
Somehow we’d managed to finish just a few minutes after all of the friends we’d met along the way, who called us over and pressed cold cans of beer into our hands. Just like that we had our Camino family, exactly when we needed it.
Lauren had declared several times in the previous two weeks that she’d never walk another Camino, but in that moment in front of the cathedral, everything changed. Within minutes she was planning a solo month on the Frances. The Camino is addictive, even if you don’t realise it until right at the end!
We sat sipping our beer and basking in the sunshine, finally with nowhere else to go and no more walking to be done. Promising to meet up again for dinner, the group eventually broke up an hour or so later, and we limped our way back to the lovely Stellae Luscofusco.
It’s slightly further out of the centre than some of other accommodation, but as a result, much better value for money in a city that’s not exactly renowned for it.
Our last Camino meal was everything we might have hoped for, even if it did take a bit of wandering to find somewhere with space for us all. Platefuls of food filled the table, our wine glasses were never empty, and laughter filled the little square we were sitting in.
Tomorrow our multicultural group would split up and start heading for all corners of the globe, but tonight it was the Camino that united us all.
Total distance: 26.3 km (16.3 miles). Double room: 23€ per person
Final Thoughts
So overall, how would I rate the Camino Primitivo?
In so many ways, it was fantastic. The mountains and forests of the first week or so in particular were exceptional, with seemingly every climb (of which there were many) rewarding with spectacular views to the horizon. Walking along the woodland trails for hours was a delight, whether the trees were dripping from recent rains or casting welcome shade from the hot sun.
The walking was hard at times, due to the mix of long days, steep hills, and comparatively few places to stop along the way. That’s the kind of difficulty I like, though, much better than the blister-filled, knee-busting hardship of endless cobblestones, concrete, and asphalt you’ll find on the other northern Caminos.
We had wonderful weather, on a trail that’s not known for it. Waking up to clear skies most mornings was a welcome relief, and let us make the most of those exceptional views. On the odd occasion it did rain during the day, it was usually light and only for a few hours. Nothing my poncho couldn’t handle!
Before Melide (and especially before Lugo), there were few other walkers. That didn’t mean there were no problems with accommodation (as mentioned, this is the only Camino where I’ve booked rooms ahead of time) but it did mean plenty of peace and quiet to appreciate the beautiful surroundings.
That lack of fellow pilgrims, though, did mean it took longer to make friends than on my other Caminos. If you’re not an extrovert like me, you may view that as a bonus, but I can’t say that I did. Still, it’s at least partially my own fault: if I spoke more than very basic Spanish, it would have happened much faster.
The food was also a bit of a letdown, at least prior to Melide. We never starved (quite the opposite), but mealtimes were usually more about calorie replenishment than gastronomic delight. Asturias has a proud food culture, but we didn’t find much evidence of it along the Primitivo route. The wine, however, was always drinkable and in plentiful supply.
If that’s all I have to complain about, though, it really isn’t much. When it comes to summarising how I feel about any long walk, in the end it boils down to one simple question: having done it once, would I do it again?
In the case of the Camino Primitivo, it’s quite simple. Yes. I definitely would.
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Tickets Tickets are on sale now! Free for Members $20 Adults, $17 Seniors age 65 and older, free Youth ages 7-18, children 6 and under and college students…
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North Carolina Museum of Art
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https://ncartmuseum.org/to-take-shape-and-meaning/
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Form and Design in Contemporary American Indian Art
March 2–July 28, 2024
Organized by guest curator Nancy Strickland Fields (Lumbee), director/curator of the Museum of the Southeast American Indian at the University of North Carolina at Pembroke, the exhibition To Take Shape and Meaning: Form and Design in Contemporary American Indian Art features works by 75 Indigenous artists from over 50 tribes throughout the United States and Canada, including eight from North Carolina.
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Free for Members
$20 Adults, $17 Seniors age 65 and older, free Youth ages 7-18, children 6 and under and college students
Learn more about Membership
To Take Shape and Meaning brings together a wide range of Indigenous world views, ideas, experiences, traditions, cultures, and media and emphasizes the continuity and evolution of Native arts, both collective and individual expressions of Native America. The exhibition, composed exclusively of 3-D artworks, includes baskets made of blown glass, cars transformed into works of art, and cutting-edge fashion ensembles embellished with elaborate beadwork and feathers. This project supports the NCMA’s ongoing goal of presenting expansive and inclusive art historical narratives in all aspects of the Museum and of bringing in contemporary artists whose works focus on themes that are particularly relevant to the concerns of the current moment.
“For thousands of years, Native artists have manipulated their materials into fantastic expressions of art. The contemporary artists featured in the show are among the most acclaimed in their genres and are credited with pushing their art forms in ways that retain meaning and continue to evolve culture.” —Nancy Strickland Fields, Guest Curator
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Ticket and Visitor Information
To Take Shape and Meaning is on view in East Building, Level B, Meymandi Exhibition Gallery.
More information on parking and Museum hours
$20 for nonmembers
$17 for military and 65+
Free for members, students, and children under 6
Tickets
Exhibition Catalogue
To Take Shape and Meaning is accompanied by a lushly illustrated catalogue with essays by guest curator Nancy Strickland Fields (Lumbee), artist Rose B. Simpson (Santa Clara Pueblo), and Stephen Fadden (Mohawk), director of programming at Poeh Cultural Center in Pojoaque, New Mexico.
NCMA, 2024, 180 pp., hardcover, full color, $35
Available for purchase in the Exhibition Store and Museum Store.
Artist List
Marcus Amerman (Choctaw)
Venancio Aragon (Navajo Nation)
Keri Ataumbi (Kiowa)
Martha Berry (Cherokee Nation)
Sally Black (Navajo)
Joanna Underwood Blackburn (Chickasaw Nation)
Debra Box (Southern Ute)
Jackie Larson Bread (Blackfeet Nation)
Millie Bridwell (Cheyenne River Sioux)
Harlen Chavis Jr. (Lumbee)
Steven L. Chrisjohn (Oneida)
Kelly Church (Ottawa/Pottawatomi/Matchi-be-nash-she-wish)
Melissa S. Cody (Navajo Nation)
Vivian Garner Cottrell (Cherokee Nation)
Robert Davidson (Haida)
Leslie A. Deer (Muscogee [Mvskoke] Nation of Oklahoma/Creek Nation)
Carol Emarthle Douglas (Northern Arapaho/Seminole)
Orlando Dugi (Navajo)
Chase Earles (Caddo)
Tom Farris (Otoe-Missouria/Cherokee Nation)
Anita Fields (Osage Nation and Muscogee Creek Nation)
Sue Fish (Chickasaw/Choctaw)
Cliff Fragua (Jemez Pueblo)
Gabriel Frey (Passamaquoddy)
Gal Frey (Passamaquoddy)
Jeremy Frey (Passamaquoddy)
Jeffrey Gibson (Mississippi Choctaw)
Bill Glass Jr. (Cherokee Nation of Oklahoma)
Shan Goshorn (Eastern Band Cherokee)
Dorothy Grant (Haida)
Teri Greeves (Kiowa)
Raven Halfmoon (Caddo Nation)
Harry Hank (Inupiaq)
Benjamin Harjo Jr. (Seminole/Absentee Shawnee)
Georgia Harris (Catawba Nation)
Evalena Henry (San Carlos Apache)
Emil Her Many Horses (Oglala Lakota)
Rhonda Holy Bear (Hunkpapa Lakota)
Allan Houser (Warm Springs Chiricahua Apache)
Kenneth Johnson (Muscogee/Seminole)
Peter B. Jones (Onondaga)
Steven Paul Judd (Kiowa/Choctaw)
Jontay Kahm (Plains Cree)
Renferd Koruh (Hopi/Tewa)
Chalmers Locklear (Lumbee)
Gloria Tara Lowery (Lumbee)
Senora Lynch (Haliwa-Saponi)
Julian Martinez (San Ildefonso Pueblo)
Maria Martinez (San Ildefonso Pueblo)
Dallin Maybee (Northern Arapaho/Seneca)
Wanesia Misquadace (Fond du Lac Band of the Ojibway)
Katrina Mitten (Miami Tribe of Oklahoma)
Elias Jade Not Afraid (Apsaalooké Nation)
Jamie Okuma (Luiseño/Shoshone-Bannock/Wailaki/Okinawan)
Virgil Ortiz (Cochiti Pueblo)
Jane Osti (Cherokee Nation)
Cherish Parrish (Pottawatomi/Ottawa/Matchi-be-nash-she-wish)
Lisa Rutherford (Cherokee Nation)
Rose B. Simpson (Santa Clara Pueblo)
Preston Singletary (Tlingit)
Richard Zane Smith (Wyandot Nation of Kansas)
Roxanne Swentzell (Santa Clara Pueblo)
Dorothy Torivio (Acoma Pueblo)
Laura Walkingstick (Eastern Band Cherokee)
Kathleen Wall (Jemez Pueblo and Chippewa)
Denise Wallace (Chugach/Sugpiaq/Alutiiq)
Marie Watt (Seneca Nation)
Jodi Webster (Ho-Chunk Nation/Prairie Band Potawatomi Nation)
Billy Welch (Eastern Band Cherokee)
Margaret Roach Wheeler (Chickasaw/Choctaw)
Maidena Welch Wildcatt (Eastern Band Cherokee)
Dennis Michael Wilkins (Lumbee)
Kenneth Williams Jr. (Northern Arapaho/Cattaraugus Seneca)
Holly Wilson (Delaware Nation)
Shop and Dine
Exhibition Store
Wednesday–Sunday, 10 am–5 pm
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Wednesday–Sunday, 10 am–5 pm, for coffee service
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Friday–Sunday, 11 am–4 pm
Grab-and-go sandwiches, snacks, crafted coffees, cold beverages, and more.
Tours
Docent-guided exhibition tours are available for adults, students, and youth groups. Groups must have a minimum of five individuals. Learn more
A series of curator tours with Nancy Strickland Fields are available on:
Saturday, March 2, 1–2 pm, free as part of Community Day
Saturday, April 20, 1–2 pm, free as part of Community Day
Saturday, May 18, 1–2 pm, free with ticket to exhibition (must register)
Saturday, June 8, 1–2 pm, free with ticket to exhibition (must register)
To register for the May or June tour, please contact us.
Free gallery guides available at the exhibition entrance.
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Enhance your experience of all special exhibitions and our world-class collection with these exclusive benefits:
Free admission for all special ticketed exhibitions
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Discount on summer concerts in the Joseph M. Bryan, Jr., Theater in the Museum Park
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Free admission to summer movies
10% off purchases in the Museum Store
Preview, the Museum’s quarterly members publication, mailed to your home
Member e-newsletters
Image Information
Rose B. Simpson (Santa Clara Pueblo), Maria, 2014, 1985 Chevy El Camino, H. 54 × W. 72 × D. 202 in., Courtesy of the artist; Photo: Kate Russell
Virgil Ortiz (Cochiti Pueblo), Convergence, Defenders Descend from Portal to Pueblo, 2023, Cochiti red clay, white clay slip, red clay slip, and black pigment (wild spinach plant), H. 28 1/2 × W. 19 × D. 18 in., Gift of Alan and Benjamin King, Jeffrey Childers and Onay Cruz Gutierrez, Joyce Fitzpatrick and Jay Stewart, Valerie Hillings and B. J. Scheessele, Marjorie Hodges and Carlton Midyette, Stefanie and Douglas Kahn, Bonnie and John Medinger, Mindy and Guy Solie, Cathy and Jim Stuart, Libby and Lee Buck, Liza and Lee Roberts, and an anonymous donor
Jamie Okuma (Luiseño/Shoshone-Bannock/Wailaki/Okinawan), Adaptation II, 2012, shoes designed by Christian Louboutin, leather, glass beads, porcupine quills, sterling silver cones, brass sequins, and chicken feathers, each H. 8 5/8 × W. 3 1/4 × D. 9 3/16 in., Lent by the Minneapolis Institute of Art, Bequest of Virginia Doneghy, by exchange; Photo: Minneapolis Institute of Art
Organized by the North Carolina Museum of Art. This exhibition is made possible, in part, by the Hartfield Foundation; Libby and Lee Buck; the North Carolina Department of Natural and Cultural Resources; the North Carolina Museum of Art Foundation, Inc.; and the William R. Kenan Jr. Endowment for Educational Exhibitions. Research for this exhibition was made possible by Ann and Jim Goodnight/The Andrew W. Mellon Foundation Fund for Curatorial and Conservation Research and Travel.
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Jaime Camino is known as an Director, Writer, Screenplay, Producer, Actor, Script, Story und Dialogue. Some of his work includes The Long Vacations of '36, Dragon Rapide, The Long Winter, Tomorrow Is Another Day, La vieja memoria, Spain Again, Los niños de Rusia und Lights and Shadows.
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https://www.emilyluxton.co.uk/spain/camino-del-norte-guide/
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The Camino del Norte: An Introduction to the Northern Way
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An introduction and brief guide to the Camino del Norte, the northern route of the Camino de Sanitago pilgrimage in Spain.
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en
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Emily Luxton Travels
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https://www.emilyluxton.co.uk/spain/camino-del-norte-guide/
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Some posts on this site contain affiliate links. If you book or buy something through these links, I earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). Take a look at my privacy policy for more information.
Recently, I headed to the north coast of Spain to follow the Camino del Norte. This route of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage passes through a belt of four regions along the northern coast known as Green Spain, famed for its stunning coastal landscapes.
But, since not too many people have heard of the Camino del Norte, I thought I’d publish this mini-guide to share a bit more information.
Hopefully, this will give you an idea of exactly what the Camino is, where I went, and what the pilgrimage is all about. This is just a very brief guide to the Camino del Norte, though. If you want to find out more I’ve listed a few great resources at the end of this post.
What Is the Camino de Santiago?
Why The Northern Way?
The Route & Highlights of the Camino del Norte
Camino del Norte Travel Tips
Resources
What Is the Camino de Santiago?
For over a thousand years, Santiago de Compostela has been a place of pilgrimage for Christians. In the year 830, the body of St James the Apostle was discovered in Galicia by a hermit. These relics have since become an important place of pilgrimage, and are now housed in the stunning Santiago Cathedral.
King Alfonso II the Chaste, the king of Asturias at the time, was the first to make the pilgrimage to pay his respects to Saint James. He came to Galicia from Oviedo, creating the route which is now called the Ruta Primitiva (Primitive Way). Today, there’s an entire network of routes leading to Santiago de Compostela. The best known is the Camino Francés, which was the star of Emilio Estevez’s movie The Way. But there’s also the Camino del Norte (Northern Way), the Camino Inglés (English Way), the Camino Portugués (Portuguese Way), and dozens more.
Camino de Santiago planning website Gronze.com (source of the below map) has a full breakdown of all the routes and variations of the pilgrimage.
These days, the Camino de Santiago is more than a Christian pilgrimage. Whichever route you choose, and however you follow it, the Camino is an adventure. Every year, thousands of people take on the challenge.
Their motives may be spiritual, personal, charitable, or simply the search for a new way to approach a country as diverse and fascinating as Spain. Whatever the motivation, the journey is sure to be an incredible one.
Why The Northern Way?
Also known as the Ruta de la Costa (coastal route), the main draw of the Camino del Norte is precisely that. It follows the coast. Around 80% of the route is coastal, passing windswept surfing beaches and secluded bays. Rugged cliff landscapes and picturesque fishing villages.
Being coastal can mean that the route is a little tougher than the more famous Camino Francés (French Way). The hilly and sometimes mountainous coastal terrain involves a lot of ascents and descents, and the route is considered more challenging than the Camino Francés.
But, the fame of the inland French route means that it’s becoming overcrowded, while pilgrims can have the Camino del Norte almost to themselves at times. I hiked several small sections of the route across all four regions, and rarely passed any other hikers. I did, however, pass dozens of beautiful beaches that were completely deserted despite some gorgeously sunny weather. Choosing the road less travelled has real perks.
Another challenge of the Camino del Norte is the humid Atlantic weather. Rain is pretty likely at any time of year, and there can be strong coastal winds to deal with. Whilst the weather is very changeable and wet on the northern route, the inland Camino Francés can be far too hot and dry during summer. So the cooler northern route can be a much better option for summer hikers.
The Route & Highlights of the Camino del Norte
The Northern Route of the St James Way begins in the border town of Irún, at the bridge between Hendaya in France and Irún in the Basque Country. It then winds its way some 823km through Green Spain. The Camino del Norte hugs the coast all the way to Ribadeo on the Galician border, where it finally turns inland and towards Santiago de Compostela.
The highlights of each region, and particularly the ones that I was lucky enough to discover, are laid out below. This brochure from the Basque Country tourism board contains a lot more details about the route, so download it for more information. I’ve also included some links to my favourite posts from the other bloggers on my trip, so check those out for more details!
Basque Country
The autonomous community of the Basque Country in northern Spain has a unique culture. Pintxos bars with plate loads of tapas-like pintxos (small bites of food served on cocktail sticks). Pretty villages with distinctive Basque architecture. The staggering cliffs of the Flysch in Zumaia, a rock formation created by 100 million years of crashing waves. It’s a beautiful region, and a fascinating one to explore as you follow the Camino del Norte.
In the Basque Country, the Camino de Santiago begins in Irún and follows the coast all the way to the Cantabrian border. Along the way, it passes through pretty coastal towns like Hondarribia, Pasai Donibane and Pasai San Pedro, as well as the larger cities of the San Sebastián, with its picturesque old town, and trendy Bilbao.
Basque Country Highlights
Albaola – a working museum and sea factory in Pasai San Pedro. Inside, a 16th century whaling ship is being rebuilt by hand, using centuries-old shipbuilding techniques.
A walk around the Old Town of San Sebastian (and perhaps a day or two at it’s stunning beaches).
A boat tour of the Basque Coast Geopark to discover the wild cliffs and amazing fossils of the Flysch.
The Monastery of Zenarruza at the foot of Mount Oiz – an important religious stop along the Camino del Norte.
Urdaibai Bird Centre. Whether you’re a big bird watcher or not, the Bird Centre in the wetlands of Urdaibai is a great stop off. There’s an excellent museum and some great equipment in the observatory, so you can spot birds as they stop off along their own great pilgrimage from North to South (or vice versa).
A visit to Casa de Juntas, the council building in Gernika. This is home to the most important institutional body in Vizcaya, and is the site where the Lords of the Biscaya bay met in the shade of the Basque Country’s iconic oak tree.
Metropolitan Bilbao, a modern city with some incredible architecture. Don’t miss the Bilbao Guggenheim Museum.
See Also: Falling in Love with the Basque Country by Claudia Tavani.
Cantabria
Cantabria is considered one of the greenest parts of Spain, and is home to some stunning landscapes. From dramatic gorges and stark mountains, to rolling green hills and simplistic farmland – this is the perfect backdrop for trekking.
The Camino del Norte enters Cantabria at Castro Urdiales on the border, and winds along the coast through a variety of villages to Santander. The Cantabrian capital, with it’s huge natural harbour, is a pretty town with a sweeping seafront and lively culture. From here, the path heads west through picturesque villages like Santillana de Mar and Comillas, to reach the border with Asturias.
Cantabria Highlights
Castro Urdiales, an interesting coastal town with strong ties to the Camino. Particularly worth seeing is the town’s Gothic church perched on the edge of the Atlantic ocean.
A detour to the famous Altamira Caves near Santillana de Mar. Inside the Altamira Museum, visitors can view an exact replica of the cave and it’s incredible prehistoric paintings. On Fridays, a lottery is held to allow a small group of people access to the actual caves, so it’s worth a visit if you’re in the area at the right time.
In Santander don’t miss the 20th century Palacio de la Magdalena, once the summer residence of the Spanish royal family.
The beautiful town of Santillana de Mar, a town which is actually nowhere near the sea!
Also in Santillana de Mar, the Colegiata de Santa Juliana is another important religious stop along the Camino del Norte.
Another great detour en route is a trip to Fuente Dé. This is a small town on the Camino Vadiniense, an inland route that connects the Camino del Norte with the Camino Francés, so it’s an interesting stopover. In the heart of the idyllic mountain scenery of Picos de Europa National Park, this town is famous for it’s cable car which provides some amazing views. Provided you have better weather than I did.
Another important side pilgrimage in Cantabria is the Camino Lebaniego, which ends at the Monasterio de Santo Toribio in Liébana. This monastery is the resting place of the Lígnum Crucis, supposedly the biggest surviving piece of the cross on which Jesus was crucified, and it’s one of Cantabria’s most significant religious sites.
See Also: Mountains, Caves & Sea: It’s Cantabria Calling by Duncan Rhodes.
Asturias
A beautiful region of rugged coastline and wooded mountain landscapes, Asturias has it’s own unique spirit. Here, the local heritage and histories are deeply embedded in the modern day. With it’s penchant for cider and wholesome, rustic food, Asturias is also a dream for foodies.
This is the last region in which the Camino del Norte hugs the coast, and it has some of the nicest beaches I saw in northern Spain. There are also fewer big towns along the Asturian section of the route.
One of the first is Llanes, a relatively large town with some gorgeous beaches. The biggest city in the region is Oviedo, which isn’t technically on the Camino del Norte but makes a good detour. It’s the coastal villages like Cudillero and Luarca that are the real highlights along this section of the Camino, though.
Asturias Highlights
Llanes. This is a pretty town of colourful Indiano mansions and a historic quarter which has been declared a Historic-Artistic Site. The coastline stretching west to Niembro features dozens of secluded white sand beaches – 32 of them within a 45km stretch.
The coastal paths of Asturias are also a cyclist’s paradise (post by Laurel Robbins). There are some really good trails that offer incredible views, as well as access to the region’s stunning beaches.
A detour to the town of Oviedo, starting point of the very first pilgrimage to Santiago, is well worth the trouble. The town is beautiful, and the cathedral here is another important religious site on the Camino.
The gorgeous fishing village of Cudillero. Perched on the coast within a natural amphitheatre formed by the mountain walls, this village has some amazing views, and some really lovely locals (see my post, linked below).
Another stunning coastal town in Asturias is Luarca. Divided by a small river, this pretty little town of white houses circles a port filled with colourful fishing boats.
Galicia
In Galicia, the Camino finally turns inland to make the final stretch south-west to Santiago de Compostela. Swapping coastal views for forests and farmland, the way passes through historic towns and charming villages, like Lourenzá and Mondoñedo.
At Arzúa, the Camino del Norte merges with the Camino Francés and from here, all roads are one to the final stop of Santiago de Compostela. This is the capital of Galicia and the end of the pilgrimage. In the centre of Obradoiro Square, in front of the cathedral, a stone scallop shell signifies the end of the journey. The cathedral itself is, of course, the most important religious stop along the Camino. Inside is the tomb of Saint James the Apostle and the very reason for the Camino del Santiago.
Psst! Don’t miss my Food Guide to Galicia to find out what dishes you shouldn’t miss while you’re there!
Galicia Highlights
Playa de las Catedrales. Just before leaving the coast, don’t miss the chance to visit the stunning “Cathedrals Beach” in Ribadeo. The beach is famed for it’s bizarre rock formations and caves. It’s also a protected site, so in summer visitors need to apply for a permit online to get access.
Lourenzá, a quiet, historic town along the Camino. The Monastery of San Salvador de Vilanova Lorenza was renovated in 1732 by the architect behind the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Casas y Novoa.
A little further along the Camino lies Mondoñedo, another gorgeous historic town. The pretty historic centre has been declared a Property of Cultural Interest, and there are several notable historic buildings including the Cathedral-Basilica of La Asunción, which is a national monument in Spain.
The Cistercian Monastery of Santa Maria de Sobrado dos Monxes is one of the last significant religious sites along the Camino del Norte. It’s also a place of pilgrim’s refuge, with huge dormitories for peregrinos (pilgrims).
Santiago de Compostela – the final stop of the Camino de Santiago. Don’t miss a visit to the stunning cathedral, or the chance to take a walk on it’s rooftops for some incredible views of the city.
A trip to Pazo de Oca just outside the city is the perfect way to relax once your pilgrimage is over. This stunning country home has some beautifully landscaped gardens.
Camino del Norte Travel Tips
Planning a trip on the Camino de Santiago can be a big ordeal, so I recommend you do plenty of research. Here’s some basic information to get you started. Check out the resources at the end of this post for even more great information.
When to Go
The best time of year to walk the Camino del Norte is summer, from May to early October. July and August will be best in terms of weather.
Pilgrims Passport
At the end of the Camino, pilgrims are rewarded with the Compostela; the accreditation of the pilgrimage to the Tomb of St. James. In order to get this document, you need a completed Credencial del Pelegrino (Pilgrim’s Credential or Pilgrim’s Passport). You can pick up stamps at the official albergues along the route, as well as at bars and other associations. Find out more here.
Accommodation
Pilgrims stay at hostels, called refugios or albergues, which can be found all along the route. Only pilgrim’s carrying the Credencial and who are walking, cycling, or horse riding the camino can stay at these hostels. Many have no set fee; you simply make a donation based on what you can afford. The accommodation style is generally basic, but comfortable, dorm rooms – which are the perfect way to meet other pilgrims.
Alternatively, there are several private albergues in operation along the route, as well as pensiones, hostales, casa rurales, campsites, and small hotels. You’re free to choose the accommodation options that best suit your travel style and budget! But remember, you’ll need to visit some of the official albergues in order to get a stamp for your credencial.
Getting There
You can fly to Bilbao from London in less than two hours with a variety of airlines, including British Airways, Iberia, Vueling and Easyjet. From Bilbao you can take a bus to Irun (about 1 hour 40 minutes), or a train (about 3.5 hours changing at Lugaritz).
Resources
For more information about the Camino, check out some of the below resources. These websites and guides will be really helpful when planning your Camino del Norte trek:
Overview of the Camino de Santiago by the Spanish tourism board.
In-depth guide to the Camino del Norte (also covers the other Northern routes). Includes maps of each stage. Published by Euskadi Turismo.
Website of the Official Pilgrim’s Office. For more information on the pilgrimage credential, certificate of distance, and planning the pilgrimage.
The Northern Caminos: The Caminos Norte, Primitivo and Ingles. Guidebook (paperback and eBook editions available) by Dave Whitson and Laura Perazzoli.
I’m Off Then: Losing and Finding Myself on the Camino de Santiago. Travel narrative about the author’s journey along the Camino de Santiago (French Route).
The Way. Emilio Estevez’s movie about the Camino de Santiago (French Route).
If you’ve ever completed the Camino de Santiago I’d love to hear from you! Scroll down the page to leave a comment and let us know about your experiences.
My visit to Green Spain was as part of a press trip organised by The Travel Mob on behalf of El Camino Santiago and the local tourism boards of Euskadi Basque Country, Cantabria Tourism, Turismo Asturias and Turismo Galicia for the #InGreenSpain and #VisitSpain campaigns. As always, all views and opinions (except quotes) are entirely my own and without bias.
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[
"Patrick Wilson"
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2024-08-06T11:07:02+00:00
|
The Wild Goose Festival centered on four pillars of thought and expression — spirituality, justice, music and art.
|
en
|
Baptist News Global
|
https://baptistnews.com/article/at-wild-goose-festival-i-found-my-flock/
|
Attending the 2024 Wild Goose Festival at Van Hoy Farms in Harmony, N.C., was a first for me. Even though I’d heard about the annual gathering of progressive post-evangelicals, I really did not know what to expect. However, as David Hayward — better known as the NakedPastor — expressed in a conversation with me after the festival: “It wasn’t what I feared.”
About 2,000 people from all across North America assembled on the grounds just off Jericho Road for a spiritual family reunion of sorts. Many came in their RVs or camped in tents along the outskirts of the outdoor four-day festival. They came from all walks of life, clergy and laity, Christians and Nones, straight and queer, old and young, a convergence of diversity gathered to be a part of a unifying table in the wilderness, a party with a purpose, a safe and welcoming community — a flock of geese.
The Wild Goose Festival began when a small group of people formed the inaugural board in 2009. Wanting to bring the concepts of a similar-style festival that some of the board members regularly attended in Greenbelt, England, they began to conceptualize what became the first Wild Goose Festival in 2011.
Joy Wallis, the first woman ordained by the Church of England and a founding board member, explained the festival was named after the Celtic symbol for the Holy Spirit. Geese fly in formation together, take turns in the lead and are much wilder than a dove, a more common symbol for the Spirit of God.
From Thursday morning to Sunday afternoon, activities were available for the entire family. Children had their own Goose experience throughout the day, while adults participated in a wide variety of sessions.
The Wild Goose Festival centered on four pillars of thought and expression — spirituality, justice, music and art.
The Wild Goose Festival centered on four pillars of thought and expression — spirituality, justice, music and art. Co-creators facilitated talks about one of these four pillars. Some gatherings occurred around tables in interactive conversation, while others took place as lectures or panel discussions under a tent.
Much of this year’s festival focused on spirituality. On Thursday, I spent much of the day under the tutelage of Hal Taussig, Su Yon Pak, Chebon Kernell and Victoria Loorz in an extensive discussion titled, The Wild, New, Big and Broader Bible. Among other things, the seminars focused on texts from the Nag Hamadi library, such as Thunder Perfect Mind, which used predominantly feminine imagery to describe the divine.
Throughout the weekend, I learned from other brilliant scholars such as Jennifer Byrd, who spoke on marriage equity; AJ Levine, who explained Christian misconceptions of Jews; and Jacqui Lewis, who elaborated on how we empower the “snake” if we do not use the hermeneutic of suspicion.
The festival also focused heavily on justice. On Friday morning, Obrey Hendricks walked us through the Lord’s Prayer as a way of understanding the importance and radicality of racial justice.
In light of the upcoming election, much discussion focused on the dangers of Christian nationalism. Doug Pagitt, Nathan Empsall and Leah Shade provided a panel discussion of their respective organizational efforts to confront this threat on our democracy. Brit Barron spoke of the importance of taking personal responsibility and making a difference in our local communities, and David Gushee called us to address the modern, God-haunting crisis through radically reoriented communities of faith.
Music played an important role throughout the festival, too. A variety of music genres could be heard from the main stage throughout the day. In worship gatherings, musicians led everyone in singing songs not normally sung in church. Participants sang and danced to everything from The Beatles’ Come Together to Jim Henson’s The Rainbow Connection.
Each night climaxed with headliner concerts by Christian LGBTQ+ artists — Jennifer Knapp, Spencer LaJoye and Flamy Grant. Afterward, people gathered under a large tent for Beer and Hymns, a sing-along time of playing instruments, singing old hymns together and relishing in the safe and welcoming environment of a faith collective.
Some musicians led conferences, too. For example, Jennifer Knapp discussed her spiritual journey, her decision to recreate her Kansas album this year and the intersection of theology with art.
Art could be seen throughout the festival. Participants could purchase everything from painted rocks and art prints to apparel and books. A large tent in the center of the festival provided space where participants could create their own artwork. Organizers auctioned some art to raise funds for future festivals, and other pieces were available for purchase.
Some artists also facilitated sessions. For example, Hayward talked about his own deconstruction journey after walking away from 30 years as a pastor, his renewed interest in drawing cartoons, and both the opposition and encouragement he receives as the NakedPastor.
For most who attend the Wild Goose Festival each year, it is “community,” and for many, it is “church.”
For most who attend the Wild Goose Festival each year, it is “community,” and for many, it is “church.” Pagitt, executive director of Vote Common Good, talked about participants and their spirit as they are “stuck together” at the festival and beyond. Board member Wallis spoke of how LGBTQ+ is in the DNA of the Goose and how the festival is the last stop for many who are wounded by the church.
Several participants shared their experiences with me.
Sharon, who was at the Wild Goose Festival for the first time, used words like “mystical” and “sacred” to describe her experience. A fellow first-timer, Chantel, described how amazing it was to be around like-minded people. Mari and Jeff spoke of the festival as a place for their souls to be fed. Mandy said it stretched her mind and soul. Similarly, Collen transparently told how she came tired and left refreshed. Scott said participating is an overall must-do for his well-being. Sam conveyed participating was an invitation into the open and uncomfortable, and Jamie said faith was restored at the festival.
Bill explained how the festival gave him “… hope and connection in a world that is often lonely and hard to find your community.” John also valued the intentionally inclusive community; Karen added it was a judgment-free zone. Elaine noted the kindred spirits, deep conversations, wonderful music and timely rest. Julie spoke of the radical hospitality, and Gayle said it was the place she could be her authentic self. Roger summarized the festival as “… wind and hope in our sails.”
Ray Waters, pastor of The Village Church in East Point, Ga., captured the spirit of the Wild Goose Festival best: “I used to dream of a place where a diverse group of people could come together to engage in profound spiritual, academic, political and psychological conversations about life, justice and human flourishing. A place where voices that are often muted — women, people of color, immigrants and the LGBTQ+ community — are uplifted and celebrated. Imagine if this place also featured some of the most creative artists sharing their incredible talents with us. Such a place would foster life-changing friendships and profound personal growth. I found that place at the Wild Goose Festival. It has become a yearly pilgrimage for me, one that I never plan to miss.”
In sum, the Wild Goose Festival was a place for me to be myself, surrounded by other sojourners who have not given up on Jesus, even after being traumatized by the church.
As a person who embraces the emerging church movement, deconstruction of faith, progressive Christianity, and open and relational theology, I was with kindred souls. I met and learned from mentors in my faith, reconnected with old friends and instantaneously met countless new ones.
To borrow a phrase from Barbara Brown Taylor, “I had done right to be right where I was.” I found my flock!
Patrick Wilson has served as a pastor 25 years in Dallas and Austin, Texas, and most recently in in Rolla, Mo., where he now leads a community of faith, CrossRoads. He is a graduate of Baylor University, earned two master’s degrees at Southwestern Baptist Theological Seminary and a Doctor of Ministry degree from Logsdon Seminary.
Related articles:
Ruffled feathers: Wild Goose Festival is a case study in how hard it is to disentangle from white supremacy — even when you want to
“So many Baptists” at Wild Goose
|
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17422
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yago
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0
| 80
|
https://www.cntraveler.com/stories/2016-05-08/what-to-pack-for-the-camino-de-santiago
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en
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What to Pack for the Camino de Santiago
|
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[
"Eugenia González de Henn",
"CNT Editors",
"Matt Ortile",
"Paris Wilson",
"Lauren Burvill",
"Paul Rubio",
"Condé Nast"
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2016-05-08T00:00:00
|
Packing for a month-long, 340-mile hike isn't simple—but nothing worth doing is ever simple.
|
en
|
https://www.cntraveler.com/verso/static/conde-nast-traveler/assets/favicon.ico
|
Condé Nast Traveler
|
https://www.cntraveler.com/stories/2016-05-08/what-to-pack-for-the-camino-de-santiago
|
Why am I walking hundreds of miles across Spain? This question has been asked so many times, and I fear I still don’t know the answer. I am about to depart on a month-long journey with my mother, my aunt, and a friend on the centuries-old Camino de Santiago trail—also known as St. James Way, or the pilgrimage of St. James across northwestern Spain. Though I don't have a story, my reason—not yet.
I'm not going for work. By day, I am a contributing travel editor and a fashion consultant splitting my time between New York and Berlin. I will chat with people along the way—ask them why they decided to drop everything and march the dusty trail as summer's heat comes—but this trip isn't work.
I'm not going to discover my past. I was raised in Cd. Juarez, Mexico, then lived in New York for 16 years. I recently returned to Mexico to get married in Chiapas—my heritage is down south, not across the Atlantic.
I'm not going just for myself. The first time I saw the pilgrims walking through the Camino was 17 years ago, when I drove with my family through the north of Spain. Their perseverance, drive, and overall energy struck a chord and I knew I would do this one day—and luckily, it's with my family. My mother and aunt, having gone through an emotionally difficult last two years, decided to do this trip for the full 490 miles, starting at St. Jean Pied de Port, France, to Santiago de Compostela and all the way to Finisterre—the longest of all the routes of the Camino. Because of time constraints, I will join 10 days in and walk about 340 miles for about 30 days. Some people say this is a therapeutic trip, a time to think, reflect, learn, explore, meditate, and change. I hope I am able to do all those things. And hopefully, when I return, I can tell you why I actually left.
Packing list
Packing for a 30-day, 340-mile hike isn't simple, and there isn't much online to help you prep. With the help of our guide, I started a packing list a few weeks ago that would take into account the swings in temperature (it could rain for days on end, or be hot one day and cool the next) and distance between stops (some towns are 18 miles apart). I generally stuck with Nike for all the clothing I could. They have a really good range of Dry-Fit pieces that dry very quickly—a huge necessity as you are washing clothes every day, or every other day, and need them to dry overnight. Aside from the walking clothes, you need one outfit to change into every afternoon when you arrive in town, shower, and go out to explore. One pair of workout pants will double as my ‘afternoon’ pants, paired with a white T-shirt and a cozy gray sweatshirt. I suggest you organize with your fellow walkers and share the load of products (shampoo, foot creme, etc).
CLOTHES
3 pairs of shoes:
1 pair of Nike Flyknit Chukka SneakerBoots. This shoe is a perfect hybrid of a sneaker and a hiking boot. It lets your foot breath, has great soles, and does not apply too much pressure on your ankles.
1 pair of Birkenstocks to change into in the afternoon.
1 pair of flip-flops for showering.
5 bottoms:
1 pair thermal pants that double as pajama pants.
2 pairs of Nike Zoned Sculpt pants (one long, one cropped). They have compression zones knit into the tights that support muscles and are also Dry-Fit for washing on the go. Double points! The long ones will also be my ‘afternoon pant’ when I change out of the walking clothes to have dinner and discover the town.
1 pair of cotton long pants—also to double as a pajama pants, since they are softer and cozier.
1 Thorsun women’s swim short. They double as walking shorts for hot days as well as a bathing suit bottom if we get inspired to jump in a river along the way.
4 tops:
3 Nike Aeroreact T-shirts (one long sleeve, two short sleeve). Both Dry-Fit and very breathable. The long sleeve one has slits for the thumbs so the sleeves go all the way down to your knuckles. Good for cold mornings.
1 white plain cotton T-shirt
3 outerwear:
1 gray Uniqlo sweatshirt
1 Nike Pro Warm Embossed fleece training top—very thin, good for layering on cold mornings as well as Dry-Fit. 1 windbreaker with hood.
Accessories:
3 pairs of socks
1 pair of fleece gloves
1 hat
1 neck wrap
1 bandana
1 cotton baseball cap
2 knee braces
1 set of mud gaiters for heavy rainfall
1 pair of sunglasses
GEAR
1 backpack
1 water bottle
1 set of walking sticks
1 pillow
1 bed sleeve (to avoid any lice situations!)
1 eye mask
1 pair of headphones
1 phone charger
1 quick dry towel (which doubles as a bunk bed makeshift curtain for privacy in the hostels)
1 notebook and pen
1 iPhone
1 set of ear plugs (again, the hostels…)
1 fanny pack for money and passport (the Camino is mainly a cash-based economy)
1 extra pair of insoles
1 flashlight
TALISMANS
4 stones, given to me by close friends. Pilgrims on the trail carry talismans that represent friends' and family's wishes, intentions, and desires. It’s a tradition to take them to the Cruz de Hierro, the highest place on the Camino, and leave them there.
5 barbiquejos (tassels) from Chiapas—one for each of my godchildren, to carry them with me on the way.
BEAUTY
I’m a Natura Bisse convert, so I went to the beauty counter and asked for seven sample versions of my normal products (serum, night cream, and sunblock). Each sample pack lasts for about 3/4 applications.
1 tube of Natura Bisse daily moisturizer with tint and sunblock—again, two-in-one.
1 small Ouidad leave-in conditioner
1 small Kiehl’s crème with silk groom
1 deodorant
1 travel-size Aquaphor for chapped lips or any other dry skin
1 toothpaste and toothbrush
5 blister protectors
A bunch of Aspirin Complex and allergy medicine, which I hopefully won't have to use. Rubber bands
2 packs of hand wipes
Total weight: 18.7 pounds. Each traveler is different, but hopefully this list will help you pack for your own trip someday.
Follow @eugeniaexplores on Instagram as she hikes Spain's Camino de Santiago this month.
|
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17422
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yago
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0
| 18
|
https://jamiewanderstheworld.wordpress.com/2022/04/09/camino-de-santiago-padron-to-santiago-de-compostela/
|
en
|
Camino de Santiago- Padron to Santiago de Compostela
|
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2022-04-09T00:00:00
|
Stay: Hospedería San Martín Pinario / Inmaculada, 3, 15704 Santiago de Compostela FINAL DAY!! Unfortunately, also the longest day with over 15miles of hiking 😅. I'd like to say it was great last day and would totally do again, but alas, the morning started with rain. And wind. And RAIN. We decided to have breakfast…
|
en
|
https://s1.wp.com/i/favicon.ico
|
Jamie Wanders the World
|
https://jamiewanderstheworld.wordpress.com/2022/04/09/camino-de-santiago-padron-to-santiago-de-compostela/
|
Stay: Hospedería San Martín Pinario / Inmaculada, 3, 15704 Santiago de Compostela
FINAL DAY!! Unfortunately, also the longest day with over 15miles of hiking 😅. I’d like to say it was great last day and would totally do again, but alas, the morning started with rain. And wind. And RAIN. We decided to have breakfast in our hotel since the wind was “supposed” to get better later in the day, but it was still pretty bad by the time we left around 9am.
Shortly into our hike, we met back up with our friend Vera and walked with her for quite a long time. Plz enjoy the photos of the day:
Who’s having fun? NO ONE!
Pictured: the only person on the camino with an umbrella (me). Also pictured: the only person that wasn’t completely soaked BECAUSE I had an umbrella. SEEMS LIKE ONE OF US IS REALLY THE SMART ONE.
There was a nice church after about 1 hour that you could stop in for one dryness.
We carried on until the next rest stop- some random food place- that everyone on the camino appeared to be stopping in for food or the bathroom (also a doggo!)
There was a nice walk through the forest…. well it would’ve been nice if it hadn’t been a waterfall of water coming down and tons of mud. FUN FUN FUN.
After about 3.5 hours…. IT STOPPED RAINING 🥳🥳. The sun even came out!! Wowowoowow. Sadly, there was no recovering for our soaked feet/shoes so got to walk in wet socks for the remaining 9 miles (much fun). But at least it wasn’t raining.
We stopped for some snacks on a random bench
In the last 5km we ran into one of the other American couples and one portuguese guy we have seen quite a few times!
The last mile my feet were dying (stay tuned for a gross blister photo- this is your warning to turn away). You can see I was always about 20 feet ahead of my mom- I was ready to be done and started walking quickly!
FINALLY WE MADE IT!!!
We sat in the square (as many of the other pilgrims were doing) for about 20mins, then we walked down to the pilgrims office to get our official certificates which show how you completed at least 100km of the pilgrimage.
After we got the certificates, we finally made it to our hotel and were able to take off our wet socks. FINAL WARNING BEFORE BLISTER (yes that entire part that appears to be “see through” is my blister)
We only rested for about 1hr before heading back out into the town. We went into the Cathedral this time and realized the Pilgrims mass was going to be in about 45minutes so we sat and relaxed in the church after walking around until the mass started. The mass lasted about 45mins- all in Spanish again, but it’s a catholic mass so you generally know what’s going on. They do a mini shout out to the pilgrims at the beginning and list all the countries that people came into Santiago that day (who got certificates for walking the pilgrimage).
The church itself was pretty big. The main alter was EXTREMELY extravagant. The church is famous because they found the remains of St. James here and basically this whole church is built around that. The remains are underneath the main alter- you can go down a little passageway to “see” them.
2022 (extended from 2021 cause of covid) is also a Holy Year. It’s kind of confusing how often they occur but plz research. Anyways, there is something called the Jubliee and you can obtain the holy year jubilee by walking through the door of forgiveness, completing confession, and taking communion. The door of forgiveness is sealed at any time that is not a holy year, then, during the holy year, a priest will take a silver hammer and break the seal and reopen the door. Walking through is the first step to total forgiveness of your sins (although you’re also supposed to do a confession).
We obviously walked through the door!
We walked around to a few gift shops before trying to find dinner. I found a place with lots of good reviews but we got there and it was a Michelin Star restaurant and fully booked out. We ended up going to a random place called Enxebre. The food ended up being pretty decent! Not quite as cheap as it was along the way though!
By the time we finished dinner it was about 10:30pm. We headed back to the hotel to get ready for bed.
|
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17422
|
yago
|
1
| 0
|
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/what-was-the-camino-like-pre-resurgence-in-popularity.77098/
|
en
|
What Was The Camino Like Pre-Resurgence in Popularity?
|
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[
""
] | null |
[
"too often!",
"Portugues Coastal",
"Via de la Plata",
"next Francés again"
] |
2022-09-28T19:44:04+02:00
|
As someone who has walked several Camino routes (my first was in 2013), I was curious to hear from anyone who has walked ANY Camino, say pre-year 2000, and...
|
en
|
Camino de Santiago Forum
|
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/what-was-the-camino-like-pre-resurgence-in-popularity.77098/
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As someone who has walked several Camino routes (my first was in 2013), I was curious to hear from anyone who has walked ANY Camino, say pre-year 2000, and what the experience was like.
I walked my first Camino - the Camino Frances - in 1990. A very different experience from my most recent CF in 2016.
The most obvious difference is in numbers walking. There were about 5,000 Compostelas issued in 1990. Upwards of 350,000 this year already. So roughly 70 people walking now for every fellow pilgrim on that first walk. In comparison with today walking the Camino was a quite solitary pursuit. I walked from SJPDP in July and August and met about 30 other pilgrims over the 800km journey. Sometimes I walked for two or three days without meeting another pilgrim. So interactions were mostly with local people rather than fellow pilgrims. I spoke very little Spanish and at the time little English was spoken along the Camino. But people were very welcoming and generous towards the small number of pilgrims. On several occasions I was kindly invited to sit with families or groups of friends when they saw I was eating alone. On some occasions I found that a generous person had quietly paid for my meal or that a bar owner refused payment - a gift to the pilgrim. With few people walking I was often stopped in the street by local people who asked where I was from and usually shook my hand and wished me "Buen Camino".
Meals were eaten at normal Spanish hours - the menu peregrino did not yet exist. Less of a problem than today because the pilgrim refugios were mostly unstaffed and had no curfew. The main problem was that accommodation and food might be a long way apart. There were stages up to 30km between any services. The numbers of pilgrims were far too small to support private albergues or hostals and so pilgrim refugios were almost all run by church groups or local councils. Mainly donativo or refusing any payment at all. Mostly far simpler than today. Occasionally a bare room with a concrete floor where you could spread out your sleeping bag and mat. Of course there were no luggage transport services either so pilgrims usually carried heavier loads than today.
Finding the way was occasionally tricky but the standard Spanish guidebook by Elias Valiña had good sketch maps. Fr Valiña was the leading figure in the Camino revival and by the time I walked he and his colleagues had already mapped and signposted the whole Camino Frances. There were enough yellow arrows to follow.
If I compare my first Camino walk with my most recent Camino Frances in 2016 there is no doubt that I much preferred the solitude and the occasional interaction with local people on my first walk. I find the recent Camino Frances too big, too busy, too commercial and too self-referential. These days I choose my routes and seasons to recapture some of those things I most enjoyed 30 years ago. The Mozarabe. The VdlP. Routes in Norway and Japan.
I walked my first Camino - the Camino Frances - in 1990. A very different experience from my most recent CF in 2016.
The most obvious difference is in numbers walking. There were about 5,000 Compostelas issued in 1990. Upwards of 350,000 this year already. So roughly 70 people walking now for every fellow pilgrim on that first walk. In comparison with today walking the Camino was a quite solitary pursuit. I walked from SJPDP in July and August and met about 30 other pilgrims over the 800km journey. Sometimes I walked for two or three days without meeting another pilgrim. So interactions were mostly with local people rather than fellow pilgrims. I spoke very little Spanish and at the time little English was spoken along the Camino. But people were very welcoming and generous towards the small number of pilgrims. On several occasions I was kindly invited to sit with families or groups of friends when they saw I was eating alone. On some occasions I found that a generous person had quietly paid for my meal or that a bar owner refused payment - a gift to the pilgrim. With few people walking I was often stopped in the street by local people who asked where I was from and usually shook my hand and wished me "Buen Camino".
Meals were eaten at normal Spanish hours - the menu peregrino did not yet exist. Less of a problem than today because the pilgrim refugios were mostly unstaffed and had no curfew. The main problem was that accommodation and food might be a long way apart. There were stages up to 30km between any services. The numbers of pilgrims were far too small to support private albergues or hostals and so pilgrim refugios were almost all run by church groups or local councils. Mainly donativo or refusing any payment at all. Mostly far simpler than today. Occasionally a bare room with a concrete floor where you could spread out your sleeping bag and mat. Of course there were no luggage transport services either so pilgrims usually carried heavier loads than today.
Finding the way was occasionally tricky but the standard Spanish guidebook by Elias Valiña had good sketch maps. Fr Valiña was the leading figure in the Camino revival and by the time I walked he and his colleagues had already mapped and signposted the whole Camino Frances. There were enough yellow arrows to follow.
If I compare my first Camino walk with my most recent Camino Frances in 2016 there is no doubt that I much preferred the solitude and the occasional interaction with local people on my first walk. I find the recent Camino Frances too big, too busy, too commercial and too self-referential. These days I choose my routes and seasons to recapture some of those things I most enjoyed 30 years ago. The Mozarabe. The VdlP. Routes in Norway and Japan.
Thank you so much for taking the time to write this lengthy and very informative reply. This was exactly the kind of feedback I was hoping for. Enjoy your future walks wherever they may take you.
It is funny... I didn't get a chance to walk at all pre-COVID. So - I can't compare/contrast as asked by the OP... but at the same time, I kind of feel like my first Camino experience is similar to what @Bradypus described. When was my first Camino? 2021. Spain opened to vaccinated visitors on June 7 and France opened to vaccinated visitors on June 9th. I left Arizona and then New York on June 6th and then arrived in Madrid on June 7th and made my way to Pamplona. On June 8th - I made my way to SJPDP via bus to Roncesvalles and then Taxi to SJPDP as the bus did NOT cross the French border yet (since COVID). I began my walk on June 9th - the day France was officially open to me. There were VERY few of us. Between SJPDP and probably Burgos - there were never more than about 30 of us per day walking the same stages - although some stretches had a lot of local day hikers. Between Burgos to Leon - we slowly started to pick up more Pilgrims along the way - with a bigger jump in numbers in Leon. Still - I doubt there were even 60 of us per day. Then it was very busy after Sarria - but by no means - busy compared pre-COVID or post-COVID years though.
Very few albergues were open, although there was a mix of private and public - depending on location. Many public albergues were still closed as well as most privates and religious albergues - but for the most part, there was at least 1 available in most STAGE towns (not necessarily so between stage towns) and for the most part, we were all able to find a bed in the town we wanted to stay in. But we did have to do more research to see what was open and where - AND make some reservations. Heck, even some public albergues were requiring reservations which as we all know - isn't the norm. Bars for the most part didn't open until later - if at all. There were some days that there was nowhere to purchase food along the way for many hours/kms. Even grocery store hours were very hard to figure out in the small villages. I truly had to plan ahead and learn to stop every time I did pass an open grocery store. There were very few locals out even. And masks were still required even outdoors - so in town - we all had to mask up and keep socially distant.
With all that in mind - the locals I did interact with were wonderful and it was often the non-English speaking ones that wanted to have conversations with me the most. Even after I told them - in spanish - that I spoke very little Spanish and I didn't understand them lol. When I walked into businesses - they were so excited to see a pilgrim and were hopeful that more were behind me. One day I couldn't find an albergue in the first two small towns I tried to stop in. I was cold, wet, and exhausted when I got to Ages and I stopped in a cute little bar to warm up and eat something. Afterwards - I was trying to access an albergue but no one was there - the Spanish speaking only men at the bar saw me and kept motioning me to stay there. One of them ran somewhere and got a young man to come and open the albergue for me. I got the royal treatment. Later - I asked the man who runs the bar if there is somewhere I could get a meal - he snuck me upstairs and had his wife make a special meal just for me. Then he told me to return at 7am and he would have breakfast for me. And I had these kinds of special experiences like this all along the Frances.
Anyhow - I wish I could have walked the Camino years ago, long before it was crowded - but I walked the Frances the PERFECT year for me! I had a LOT of solitude, which I desperately needed. I could walk completely alone for many hours at a time. A few days I didn't see anyone until I arrived in town for the day. I am kind of afraid to go back to the Frances because I know it will be so different. This year I did the Norte/Primitivo and LOVED the experience on the Primitivo. Just the right balance of lower pilgrim numbers but still having a total feel of "Camino Spirit".
I walked my first Camino - the Camino Frances - in 1990. A very different experience from my most recent CF in 2016.
The most obvious difference is in numbers walking. There were about 5,000 Compostelas issued in 1990. Upwards of 350,000 this year already. So roughly 70 people walking now for every fellow pilgrim on that first walk. In comparison with today walking the Camino was a quite solitary pursuit. I walked from SJPDP in July and August and met about 30 other pilgrims over the 800km journey. Sometimes I walked for two or three days without meeting another pilgrim. So interactions were mostly with local people rather than fellow pilgrims. I spoke very little Spanish and at the time little English was spoken along the Camino. But people were very welcoming and generous towards the small number of pilgrims. On several occasions I was kindly invited to sit with families or groups of friends when they saw I was eating alone. On some occasions I found that a generous person had quietly paid for my meal or that a bar owner refused payment - a gift to the pilgrim. With few people walking I was often stopped in the street by local people who asked where I was from and usually shook my hand and wished me "Buen Camino".
Meals were eaten at normal Spanish hours - the menu peregrino did not yet exist. Less of a problem than today because the pilgrim refugios were mostly unstaffed and had no curfew. The main problem was that accommodation and food might be a long way apart. There were stages up to 30km between any services. The numbers of pilgrims were far too small to support private albergues or hostals and so pilgrim refugios were almost all run by church groups or local councils. Mainly donativo or refusing any payment at all. Mostly far simpler than today. Occasionally a bare room with a concrete floor where you could spread out your sleeping bag and mat. Of course there were no luggage transport services either so pilgrims usually carried heavier loads than today.
Finding the way was occasionally tricky but the standard Spanish guidebook by Elias Valiña had good sketch maps. Fr Valiña was the leading figure in the Camino revival and by the time I walked he and his colleagues had already mapped and signposted the whole Camino Frances. There were enough yellow arrows to follow.
If I compare my first Camino walk with my most recent Camino Frances in 2016 there is no doubt that I much preferred the solitude and the occasional interaction with local people on my first walk. I find the recent Camino Frances too big, too busy, too commercial and too self-referential. These days I choose my routes and seasons to recapture some of those things I most enjoyed 30 years ago. The Mozarabe. The VdlP. Routes in Norway and Japan.
1999 was my first Camino and on the Frances. I only met 5 Americans between SJPP and Santiago. You could walk for many miles all by yourself. i walked it again three years ago and I was dumbfounded by the huge numbers of people, many not carrying packs, who were both noisy and complaining. There were some surprising route changes. Albergues were full of people—many with feelings of entitlement—from spreading gear all over to leaving bathrooms a mess for someone else to tidy up. i walked both times in September into October. I will probably not walk on the Frances again.
I walked my first Camino - the Camino Frances - in 1990. A very different experience from my most recent CF in 2016.
The most obvious difference is in numbers walking. There were about 5,000 Compostelas issued in 1990. Upwards of 350,000 this year already. So roughly 70 people walking now for every fellow pilgrim on that first walk. In comparison with today walking the Camino was a quite solitary pursuit. I walked from SJPDP in July and August and met about 30 other pilgrims over the 800km journey. Sometimes I walked for two or three days without meeting another pilgrim. So interactions were mostly with local people rather than fellow pilgrims. I spoke very little Spanish and at the time little English was spoken along the Camino. But people were very welcoming and generous towards the small number of pilgrims. On several occasions I was kindly invited to sit with families or groups of friends when they saw I was eating alone. On some occasions I found that a generous person had quietly paid for my meal or that a bar owner refused payment - a gift to the pilgrim. With few people walking I was often stopped in the street by local people who asked where I was from and usually shook my hand and wished me "Buen Camino".
Meals were eaten at normal Spanish hours - the menu peregrino did not yet exist. Less of a problem than today because the pilgrim refugios were mostly unstaffed and had no curfew. The main problem was that accommodation and food might be a long way apart. There were stages up to 30km between any services. The numbers of pilgrims were far too small to support private albergues or hostals and so pilgrim refugios were almost all run by church groups or local councils. Mainly donativo or refusing any payment at all. Mostly far simpler than today. Occasionally a bare room with a concrete floor where you could spread out your sleeping bag and mat. Of course there were no luggage transport services either so pilgrims usually carried heavier loads than today.
Finding the way was occasionally tricky but the standard Spanish guidebook by Elias Valiña had good sketch maps. Fr Valiña was the leading figure in the Camino revival and by the time I walked he and his colleagues had already mapped and signposted the whole Camino Frances. There were enough yellow arrows to follow.
If I compare my first Camino walk with my most recent Camino Frances in 2016 there is no doubt that I much preferred the solitude and the occasional interaction with local people on my first walk. I find the recent Camino Frances too big, too busy, too commercial and too self-referential. These days I choose my routes and seasons to recapture some of those things I most enjoyed 30 years ago. The Mozarabe. The VdlP. Routes in Norway and Japan.
Great story, I first walked from Leon to Santiago in 1998 and he hit a home run with the description of the “old days”. I have since gone back a dozen times including the Arogonnes way and Primitivo, both of which share some early traits . Getting lost was a daily experience , but the locals were always helpful. I knew little about the route and the first time I saw a sign for “perigrinos” I thought falcons instead of walkers. I had prior experience hiking in England & Scotland. But the weather there was terrible. My favorite joke was “ it only rained twice last week , once for four days and once for three days” well I enjoy the Camino and plan to hike again, Primitivo, in early summer .
Does anyone know if the brown pilgrims’ cape was part of the revival, or if it was something pilgrims used to wear as recently as the 1990s (or maybe a bit of both)?
I’ve always been curious because on my first Camino Frances in 2007, there was a bartender in Sarria who proudly showed me photos of his pilgrimage years before. They looked to be at least ten years old, so no later than 1997, in winter around O Cebreiro. He was wearing normal cold-weather clothes and carried a large (non hi-tech) pack and a regular wooden walking stick – and he wore a striking long brown cape. It made quite an impression against the mountains. The next time I saw the cape was in Santiago, where it appeared more like a modern interpretation for tourists of what a medieval pilgrim would wear.
But because this Spanish pilgrim had worn one in the 90s – with plain shoulders, not the shell and cross insignias – I’ve always wondered if it used to be a normal, non-exotic piece of gear, especially among Spaniards or Galicians. (This is a very minor question in a broad and fascinating discussion, I know!)
Santiago as a pilgrim on the Baroque façade of Santiago cathedral.
From: The Passionate Man’s Pilgrimage (Sir Walter Raleigh)
Give me my scallop shell of quiet,
My staff of faith to walk upon,
My scrip of joy, immortal diet,
My bottle of salvation,
My gown of glory, hope’s true gage,
And thus I’ll take my pilgrimage.
I recently read an article by Luis Martínez García (of Valladolid university) mentioning that in mediaeval times, some hospedales would only admit pilgrims who carried the usual paraphernalia of gown, staff etc and that their staff was often notched to make sure they did not come back again (apparently there were a lot of false pilgrims, what Aymery Picaud terms 'Picaros' and other folk up to no good on the camino back then).
There are also numerous mentions of departing pilgrims having their gown, staff, gourd and satchel blessed before they set out rather in the way crusaders had their weapons blessed.
So in answer to your question, no, not a modern interpretation - what pilgrims actually wore.
Here's a bit of how the French part of my 1994 from Paris was like.
No other pilgrims, no yellow arrows nor any other waymarkers, no clear sense of where to go except more or less "thataway", occasionally getting blocked by a railway, motorway, or river, until you start to work out how to avoid them in advance.
And also much sleeping outdoors, though local priests and monks and so on did help, and there were many more of them 30 years ago, and sometimes in glorious locations with views over incredible vistas under the sparkling Milky Way.
Sometimes in a bed, sometimes in the woods, sometimes on the floor, in a barn, on the grass, in a panorama of extraordinary beauty, or on wet leaves in the freezing cold. On dust, on mud, on concrete, on any surface at all to lay your head, with a welcome or denied it, that was and is the Camino when you are outside of the infrastructures, and how it was prior to their existence.
And with that, the help and love of strangers, in small matters and profound, some food, some drink, some comfort wherein to lay your head, or eat a simple feast, and even just be encouraged along the way.
I cut across the country avoiding Léon in 1994 as they had not seen fit to open an Albergue for the pilgrims that year, and I walked through villages where washer women shared the waters of the village fount with horses come there to quench their thirst from the heat of the day.
A little old lady in the midst of France giving with honour the gift of a simple omelette and a glass of clear water, to this day the best meal I have had on any of these Camino Ways.
It was and is a baroque assemblage of provision and want.
As was mentioned above, my first Camino was in the spring of 1989 - not too far off from Bradypus. I was living in Madrid at the time and the first thing I did was go to the Spanish Tourism office to see what they had. I picked up a couple of brochures on the "Camino de Santiago" (which, at the time, was synonymous with the Camino Frances, or the Camino Frances+Camino Aragones. No one was talking about the Camino del Norte, or the Camino Primitivo, or the Camino Portugues, or other Caminos in anything I could find at the time. Also of interest, perhaps, is that one of the brochures I was given (printed in the 70s) showed the Camino going along the roads and everywhere there was a gas station along the way. Even in the late 80s, it was not uncommon to find people driving the Camino instead of walking it. I will admit that the Camino I did then had a fair share of hitchhiking, as well as walking, unlike my subsequent Caminos. And many of the rides I got were from people on pilgrimage from Italy or Germany or elsewhere, driving along the Camino route from town to town and village to village.
I started in Roncesvalles, because I was coming from Madrid and from Spanish people, that's where I heard that the Camino started. When I got there I knew nothing about credencials, or the Compostela, or anything like that. I was given a credencial in Roncesvalles (which was a cardboard rectangle folded in half, specific to the Roncesvalles start point, with a limited number of spaces for stamps, each labelled with the town the stamp was to come from). The credencial came from the Friends of the Camino group in Estella. I never used it, not asked for my Compostela on that pilgrimage. That wasn't why I was doing the pilgrimage. I think I'm going to take it on my next Camino Frances and see if I can fill in the stamps and what they will make of it in Santiago.
As others have said, there was a lot less infrastructure back then. I have vivid memories of arriving in O Cebreiro, cold and wet. This was before the albergue had been build and before it had turned into the tourist mecca it is today. There was one inn in the village and it was full. They let me lay my sleeping back down before the fireplace in the main room. I don't think I ever felt as much like a medieval pilgrim as I did that night. I later heard that sometimes they let pilgrims sleep in the thatched roof pallozas.
I recently went back and looked at some old photos from that pilgrimage and I was surprised to see how much infrastructure there actually was at the time. Others have mentioned that the yellow arrows were already in place. In fact, 1989 was the same year that the person who was responsible for those yellow arrows passed away. But that wasn't all the signage. I have photos of those huge signboards you may recall from Castilla y Leon showing the Camino through the province marked vertically. They were already there. And I have photos of an elaborate mosaic on the streets of Santo Domingo de la Calzada showing the Camino route.
Another big difference back then was how the Camino ended. Back then, you didn't enter the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela like you do today, from the side. You entered through the Portico of Glory and you put your hand on the central Tree of Jesse pillar, in the grooves made by countless hands before you.
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yago
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https://vintnerproject.com/people/raul-perez-the-wine-wizard/
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en
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The Wine Wizard
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2018-04-22T18:52:07+00:00
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Meet Raul Perez. He’s pretty much a rock star in Spanish Wine. Affectionately known as the ‘ Wine Wizard’, not sure if this is due to the Gandolf style beard or the magic he creates with wine; maybe a bit of both! Born into a wine-making family, Raul was destined to work in wine. His…
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en
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Vintner Project
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https://vintnerproject.com/people/raul-perez-the-wine-wizard/
|
Meet Raul Perez. He’s pretty much a rock star in Spanish Wine. Affectionately known as the ‘ Wine Wizard’, not sure if this is due to the Gandolf style beard or the magic he creates with wine; maybe a bit of both!
Born into a wine-making family, Raul was destined to work in wine. His family’s winery, Castro Ventosa (the Windy Castle), was established by the Perez family in 1752, based in the Bierzo region and has been in control by the family ever since. It’s here that Raul began his love affair with wine and still remains consultant winemaker to this day.
The region is well-known for its Mencia production, a fragrant, delicate and fruity grape that is often labelled “The Pinot Noir of Spain”. It’s his work with this grape and this region that earnt him the wizard moniker and propelled him on the world wine stage. Located in the north-east of Castilla y Leon, the DO hugs the border with Galicia in Northern Spain. It is an ancient region made up of terraces and a vast collection of small parcels. It is this jigsaw puzzle of small parcel vineyards that make the region so unique and one that Raul has worked hard to master. It’s a fragmented area with scattered plots, apparently with some 5,000 hectares, 7,000 plots and 5,000 people listed as landowners!
The family winery produces five wines, four of them Mencia varietals; such is the focus on the grape. The only non Mencia varietal is their Valtuille Cepas Centenarias which still contains 95% Mencia in the blend.
Not content with producing wonderful wines from the family winery, Raul has branched out to create wines in various projects all over Spain, sometimes under his own personal label (Bodegas y Vinedos Raul Perez) and often joining forces with key wine figures around Spain. He is one of the few winemakers producing 100% Pinot Noir wines in Spain, his version often considered as Spain’s best. It’s an ultra-limited production from his tiny Pinot vineyard in Bierzo which Raul planted himself as an experiment (luckily I have one bottle tucked away!)
It was his pioneering work with Mencia though that has allowed him these opportunities to experiment with other grapes and regions.
Just looking at his resume makes me tired!
Despite all of this, it’s a bottle of Albarino he produced in Rias Baixas that really made the headlines. Named ‘Sketch’ after his favourite restaurant in London and picked from a vineyard located in Dena, around 500 feet from the Atlantic Ocean. The vineyard faces my family’s village across the watery stretch of the Ria de Arousa! The wine is a stunning example of a Galician Albarino with all the trademark characteristics of citrus, peach, apricots, aromatics and salt.
Two of his more notable collaborations have come through projects Camino Del Norte and Forjas Del Salnes
Camino Del Norte (North Road) – Located in Bierzo. A collaboration between Raul and Luis Miguel Fernandez, a wine expert, finalist in the “La Nariz de Oro” contest (Golden Nose), member of the Spanish Union of Tasters and SherryMaster…another impressive resume! They produce three wines;
La Patena – A tiny parcel of 100% Godello
El Teson – A critically acclaimed 100% Mencia
El Soradal – A blend of 95% Mencia and 5% Pinot Noir
Forjas Del Salnes – A collaboration between Raul and vineyard owner Rodrigo Mendez and located in the Galician DO of Rias Baixas. Dedicated to producing ‘old-style’ wines of the region. They create some of the best Albarino in Galicia including a skin contact orange wine! They also produce a red wine made from Mencia, Loueiro and Caino. Red wine production in general is a relatively lost form in Rias Baixas again solidifying their dedication to the old world.
Scarily, this is just a snapshot of Raul’s work. There are numerous others around Spain as well as Argentina and South Africa. The well-known phrase “I’ll sleep when I’m dead” has never been more fitting!
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yago
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0
| 9
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https://www.facebook.com/thewaytojamie2019/
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en
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Facebook
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Sieh dir auf Facebook Beiträge, Fotos und vieles mehr an.
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17422
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yago
|
0
| 22
|
https://medium.com/cam-crow/camino-by-cam-6c9d45d7f25f
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en
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Camino by Cam
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2019-06-20T21:56:46.580000+00:00
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International travel is something that’s changed my life. I’m more open-minded, empathetic, and knowledgeable from my experiences abroad. Regular international travel is something Jamie and I are…
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https://miro.medium.com/v2/5d8de952517e8160e40ef9841c781cdc14a5db313057fa3c3de41c6f5b494b19
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Medium
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https://medium.com/cam-crow/camino-by-cam-6c9d45d7f25f
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International travel is something that’s changed my life. I’m more open-minded, empathetic, and knowledgeable from my experiences abroad. Regular international travel is something Jamie and I are committed to, and I wrote about that here.
This year, we’re walking the Camino de Santiago, a 500 mile pilgrimage across Spain that people have been doing for over a thousand years. I’m excited for the sights, food, and friends, but I’m especially interested in the reflections that 8 hours of walking per day will afford. I plan to post some of my daily thoughts on this constantly-updating page.
Day 0 — Boise => Reykjavik
After spending the day finalizing the packing and getting the house cleaned up so it's hassle-free when we return, we're off!
Thoughts & Discussions: Anxiety about leaving something important behind… Feeling sad to leave Wookiee behind… We’re so lucky to get so much help from my dad while we’re gone…
Day 1 — Reykjavik => London
Jet lag galore. Now I remembered why I hate red eye flights. But, I do love the Reykjavik airport. It’s like a small, friendly IKEA airport where everything is cute and friendly.
Then we flew to London Heathrow, tubed to Waterloo station, and spent the evening around South Bank, London. We were pretty pooped, so we didn’t do a lot, but our evening adventure involved Black Friar’s Pub and walking along the Thames on the way back to our Airbnb.
Thoughts & Discussions: London’s a pretty cool place… If money was no object, and you were going to travel for a year, where would you go and how would you do it?… Jet lag is like a multi-day hangover… So far, this has gone remarkably smoothly (knock on wood)…
Day 2 — London => Irun
Sleep was pretty tough. Jamie and I were both up half the night, but we managed 5 or 6 hours. (I was adjusting Zapier automations for Idaho Speaks on my phone between 1 and 2:30am. 😬)
Once we checked out of the Airbnb, we walked a couple miles to Liverpool Street Station and caught our train to Stanstead Airport, where we caught or plane to Biarritz.
After we landed, we bussed to Irun, checked into our first albergue (hostel for pilgrims), got our pilgrim passport, and had dinner nearby.
Thoughts & Discussions: How am I going to be able to find satisfying breakfasts on this trip that don’t involve bread and dairy?… Timing your poops with walking and coffee is hard… Doing the Camino without speaking Spanish or being Christian feels especially foreign…
Day 3 — Irun => San Sebastian
2 hours of sleep. We simmered in our own sweat in a hellhole of a human-heated sauna dormitory. And then breakfast was white bread and pastries. Bad start, but when we got walking, everything was great. Until mile 12 or so, when I was dead. But we did it. All 16.5 miles.
When we got to San Sebastian, Jamie and I found a hostel and Jamie helped me avoid a exhaustion-induced meltdown with some coffee and a snack. Once I’d had my medicine, I perked up quickly. Just in time for us to hang out with Jamie’s family friends Pili and Etienne.
We experienced an annual Basque festival dance and customary burning of a live tree, bringing in the summer. Later we went to a street party for locals and ate tortillas espanola and drank Basque cider. And I found my true Spanish love, pintxos (Basque tapas). These small bites are DELICIOUS, and I can try tons of them inexpensively. LOVE IT!
Thoughts & Discussions: The best way to travel is definitely with friends and locals… Other cultures have so many more (and richer) traditions than Americans do… Pintxos are so amazingly awesome. Life before pintxos was so dull…
Day 4 — San Sebastian => Getaria
Jamie slept through the night and I got about 6 hours. That’s a big improvement. Being at a youth hostel, the setting was a little different than an albergue (hostel dedicated to pilgrims) — as we were packing up to leave at 6:30am, I saw 2 young, drunk, naked German dudes standing in the hallway brushing their teeth (SMH).
We took a coffee and pintxos break in a homey little town called Orio, where we met another one of Jamie’s friends, Elizabete. That was a really nice visit. Later in the day, we made our first camino friends: Nicolai from Denmark and Edmund from Australia.
At dinner, we met an interesting Irishman named Mihal. We were eating our Ensalata Mixta and he said “Have you had the salad with cider? It’s better than wine.” We said no, and kept eating. A minute later, he came back with a bottle and poured us two glasses without saying a word. That’s a good way to make friends! Later he told us he’s been coming to this specific town with his family for 10 years, doing informal house sharing. I asked if he had family connections, and he said no, that he shares an affinity for the Basque independence movement, being from North Ireland. Talking to him about that was fascinating. I’m pretty sure he’s big into it, and mentioned at one point that “we used to be much stronger in the past.” I’m reminded of the saying, “one man’s terrorist is another man’s freedom fighter.”
Thoughts & Discussions: The American melting pot, versus multicultural societies… Where to spend a week for a relaxing vacation… How Amazon rules the world… Home sharing really makes travel more affordable… America is so much worse than everywhere else in the amount of vacation time we take in a year — two weeks versus six…
Day 5 — Getaria => Deba
I slept the whole night for the first time! Bye bye, jet lag. You took your sweet ass time…
Today was only a 12 mile day, down from our average of 15 or 16, because the coming towns are separated in such a way, and there aren’t many conveniences, that most people are doing a shorter day today and a longer day tomorrow. We didn’t mind going a bit mellower.
We’re making more friends! After breaking the ice the first few days, and seeing the same people several times and nodding, we’re starting to chat. We bonded with Edmund (the Aussie) more today, and walked together for the last 3 miles or so. His family has a farm in rural Queensland, and he just sold his share to his siblings and is travelling the world — 3 months in Europe so far, doing the Camino now, and then will be flying to Vancouver, BC to work with a friend laying floors for 6 months, then down to the US to hike the Pacific Crest Trail, and then maybe some time in Latin America. The dude is travelling like a boss. #Impressed
Our albergue (hostel for pilgrims) tonight is in an old railroad station that’s been half converted. It’s really cool. Since we’re faster hikers than most, we’re usually one of the first to the new town and check into the hostel. That gives us some nice time to get situated before thing get busy later in the afternoon.
Thoughts & Discussions: Tell us about Australian food… Do Australians travel much?… European countries have a lot less open spaces. No wonder they travel so much. I think it’s more for the climate they want (that they don’t have in their country), than it is for the culture. Americans have such a huge country with varied climates, they mostly travel for a cultural experience, not for climate… Someone should make a badass app using modern tech to disrupt travel books and trail guides…
Day 6 — Deba => Bolivar
We started the day intending to stop in Markina-Xemein (15 miles). Then Edmund and a new friend, Arianna (Italian), told us they were planning to go 5 miles further to stay at a cool monestary to get a different experience. It sounded great! The monks cook for you, the price is by donation, and you get a change of pace from the city alburgues. I was sold.
But Jamie wasn’t so sure. Her feet were hurting, she was going slower than usual, conversations were at a minimum, and she was clearly not crushing the day. She wasn’t sure if she could handle going extra. But when we saw the group in Markina-Xemein, and they were still excited about going there, she was into it. We bought some groceries, ate some fruit and chocolate in the shade, filled up on water, and were good to go.
5 miles later, we can see the monestary in the distance, and we’re very excited. We’ve worked our asses off — 20 miles! We get there, and the monk at the desk says they’re full. And the other alburgue next door was closed.
SHIT. That was our backup plan. So we’re fucked. He said we could walk 2 more miles to the next alburgue, but when we researched it, we saw it only has 10 beds, and at 5:45pm, that’s not promising at all. We call ahead. No answer. We check the only other place in town. Online it’s full. We call ahead. No answer. I’m fully intending to camp out on the monestary’s lawn that night, but Edmund says he thought he saw an albergue in Bolivar, 1 mile back. We hadn’t, and our book didn’t mention one there, so it hadn’t crossed our mind. We googled it, called, and they said they had a private room left for 50 euros (normal alburgue bunks cost 10 -15). Well, that beat the grass for Jamie, so that’s what we did.
We hiked down, got checked into our room (it’s super nice!), and all we wanted was a 6-pack for the hammocks outside. But apparently Bolivar’s 4-day summer festival just ended (we saw them taking down the stage), so every (EVERY) store and restaurant was closed. So here we are, at 7:45pm, showered, doing laundry, but very thirsty and not sure how we’re going to eat tonight. 😖
Day 7 —Bolivar => Gernika
Yesterday was frustrating, but it’s a new day. Today’s plan was a light day (13 miles). We went a little slower, and though we expected a really hot one today (100 degrees), it was cool and breezy the whole way to Gernika. We got into town, bought snacks for tomorrow, checked into our hostel, showered, and went downtown for our lunch. Now, it’s late afternoon, and we’re hand-washing some laundry and hanging out.
We’ve figured out our daily schedule, for the most part. Coffee for breakfast (if we can), leave by 7:15, hiking until we get to our destination (between 12–2, usually), shower, a big lunch (available between 1 and 3), then relaxing until 7 or so, when we have a lighter dinner and drinks while people-watching at the city plaza. It’s nice. ☺
Thoughts & Discussions: How do people keep their houses looking this nice?… How many people quit the camino after the first day? They’re like, FUCK THIS, and go spend the rest of their vacation on a beach until their return flight… I can’t figure out how the Spanish schedule works. When we think people should be working, they’re out and about. When we think the should be out and about, there’s no one. 🤔…
Day 8 — Gernika => Bilbao
We’re getting bolder. When I woke up at midnight and it was like 90 degrees in our tiny, crowded hostel room, I didn’t just resort to bunk purgatory like I did the first night. I jumped out of the top bunk, walked over to the closed window (what idiot did that?!) and shoved my blanket in the hinge to hold it open. With that modification, it was a tolerable 80 degrees in there. That’s at least underwear-only sleep-able. #ProblemSolving
Today was a big hike (19 miles). I tweaked my ankle a bit, so now I’ve joined Jamie in the ailments group (she has a gnarly pinky toe blister). We got an early start, and it got hot, but we trudged on. We walked into the outskirts of Bilbao at about 2:40, and found a lunch spot right before they stopped serving (3pm). We stuffed our faces, as usual, got to the hostel, showered, I took a little nappy, we got some groceries, and now we’re hanging out on a park bench in a busy plaza watching everybody out on the town for Friday night.
Thoughts & Discussions: Having a fairly minor injury could really kill the camino walking buzz… Some of the cities we stay in are really big and exciting (like Bilbao), and I need to fight the urge to see all of it in the few hours we’re here before we move on… I wonder if there are more independence movements in Spain besides the Basque Country and Catalonia… What kind of house would you live in if you were a hundred millionaire?…
Day 9 — Bilbao => Pobena
We’ve been making a bunch of friends the last few days. There’s Lifka from Germany, Lee from the UK, Majana from Poland, and Philip and Stain from Belgium (a cool father and son pair that started from Bruge in April!!!). And Edmund and Arianna are in the group as well. We’ve been seeing everyone off and on since we started, mostly, so the familiarity has really started to bond everyone. We’re starting to have the social Camino experience we’ve heard of. It just took a few days of ice breaking to get there. Though some people hike with each other all day, Jamie and I typically prefer to hike alone, and pace and take breaks at will, but we enjoy running into friends on the trail and hanging out at the albergue in the evening.
Today’s walk was 18 miles, and it was almost entirely on pavement. That’s never bothered me much before, but after ~120 miles walked in a week, that sort of thing really starts to take a toll. Your feet start to feel like they’ve been hammered and pulverized by the hard ground. Many hikers try to get around this by walking on the side of the pavement, on a trail, or grass, or gravel, or anything besides concrete, asphalt, pavers, or boulders. Ultimately, I find this more challenging than dramatic elevation grades. Those are hard, and they get your lungs going, but at the end you feel fine. After walking on hard surfaces, the soreness sticks with you.
Day 10 — Pobena => Castro Urdiales
Today was a lighter day. Given that we’d walked 20 or more miles 3 of the last 4 days, we were ready to give ourselves a little break. Also, there are a few places coming up that we don’t want to miss (like staying in a nunnery), and if we went longer today, it’d be a really short hike tomorrow. Also also, Jamie and I sometimes enjoy rolling into our destination around noon and having the whole day to get settled, relax, and explore. So, yeah, it felt like the right thing to do today.
We’ve learned that walking the Camino is like a vacation sampler. We walk through about a half dozen towns each day, and we stay in a different one every night. So, we’re seeing a huge amount of Spain that we probably wouldn’t if we were on a normal vacation, or even lived in Spain. So far, our favorite town for a vacation would be Deba, and our favorite town for an extended stay / living situation would be Gernika.
Thoughts & Discussions: It’s weird how my ankle felt back to normal just one day after tweaking it… It’s great to be back to the seaside. Inland is hotter and generally seems less pretty… There are a lot more dogs around than I would have expected… Maybe I’ll post about my top 10 lessons learned from the Camino on Patreon…
Day 11 — Castro Urdiales => Laredo
Today we went off the normal path. And it was an adventure. On the Camino, yellow arrows point the way from start to finish, so it’s pretty hard to get lost. Unless… you choose to do some alternative route that’s uncommon. That’s what we did today — life outside the arrows.
We met Kate (from Oregon) during a coffee break this morning with Majana. As often happens, we compared routes and plans for the day. Lately, there’s been a few different ways you can go — for instance, the coast or the mountains — and pilgrims often compare notes. Kate told us about a route that she saw in her app, that none of us had heard about in our guidebooks. We figured what the hell, and went for it. We bushwhacked for about a mile, and then popped out in a town at the foot of a mountain. A local stopped us, and kept repeating “Be careful.” We shrugged it off and went for it.
This mountain was STRAIGHT UP, with a narrow, uneven trail and a cliff below. I thought the hike to the top would never end. And finally when it did, we needed to grip a cable to round a corner near another cliff. And then coming down on the other side was pretty perilous. It had rained over night, so everything was really slick. Near the bottom, I fell and got a little scratched up from a thorn bush, but it wasn’t bad. We guessed at which way we needed to go to converge with the main path, and phew... We guessed right, and we saw yellow arrows again. We made it.
Thoughts & Discussions: What should Majana do right now? Her life is at a crossroads… It’s a good thing we didn’t go to the albergue some of our friends did last night! Sounded terrible… (During mass at the nunnery we’re staying at) That a priest comes into the nunnery to run the mass feels like the patriarchy to me…
Day 12 — Laredo => Guemes
We started the day with a community breakfast at the nunnery. It was great for two reasons: 1) we have a lot of friends now, and they were all there hanging out (we needed to take a ferry, and it didn’t start running until 9, so everyone had nowhere else to be), and 2) they had an abundance of coffee. You wouldn’t think a coffee shortage would happen at included breakfasts, but that’s been the rule, not an exception. For the first time this trip, I had two cups of coffee. ☕☕
Today’s 16 miles included two gigantic, beautiful beaches, one small mountain, and several cute idyllic towns. We arrived in an amazing albergue at 3, and now we’re relaxing in the grass and shade with our buddies. Our newest friends include Jonus (Sweden), Shawn and Ron (Connecticut), and Jacqueline (Australia).
Thoughts & Discussions : Where can I get a meal?… How is Lee so goddamn fast?… How do quantum computers work?… People often ask: is this your first camino? I think we’ll do something like this again, but I’m guessing we’ll do walks in other countries before we’d come back for another camino…
Day 13 — Guemes => Santa Cruz de Bezana
I slept like a rock last night, and I didn’t even use ear plugs (just the second night since we’ve been here). The albergue we stayed in was fantastic, and the room was full of our good buddies at this point. Jackie, Lee, and Jonas were all in there with us. Breakfast wasn’t until 7am, so we all slept in a bit (normal wakeup has been 6:30 for us). After another two cups of coffee (YAS), we packed up and hit the road.
It was a beautiful stretch of coastal trail, past cliff after cliff with great sand beaches below and surfers catching waves. It rained last night, so everything had a special freshness to it. By about 11, we’d made it to the end of the coastal route, and we caught our ferry to Santander, probably the second-biggest city we’ll see during the Camino (after Bilbao). Unlike in Bilbao, we cruised on through there, because we’ve found the big cities seem to be more hassle than their worth when you’re backpacking. We did the extra 6k to get to Santa Cruz, and checked into an extremely cute little albergue. We got there 20 minutes before we opened, and I’m glad we did, because I think they filled up about 45 minutes later (only 15 beds).
Thoughts & Discussions: Which of our friends do we need to make sure we get contact information from?… We’ve been extremely lucky, not having rain during the day. Our shoes aren’t waterproof, so our feet might suffer… Damn it, got my first legit blister…
Day 14 — Santa Cruz de Bezana => Santillana Del Mar
I didn’t set an alarm this morning because I didn’t remember what time the group of 20 decided everyone would wake up the next morning (that’s how the albergue manager runs things), and I knew Jamie would wake me up. Breakfast, like dinner last night, was lovely. It was prepared by the very cool albergue owner, in her home, and honestly it was the best one of our trip. And then I made up for my guilt of not helping with dishes during dinner the previous night by doing 90% of them for breakfast. This place, like about half of the places we’ve stayed is “donativo” (by donation), and we left the most generous amount yet (20 euros each).
Today’s walk was short (11 miles), but it was very hot, and the entire route was on pavement. We, like many of our fellow pilgrims, have been really disappointed by how much pavement-walking is part of the route of the Camino del Norte. Between the start (Irun) and Bilbao (about 30% through), it was about 80% trails. Since then, it’s been about 80% pavement. All the pilgrims I know have decided to change course in a few days and get on the “Primativo” — another camino route that is entirely trails and has less towns and infrastructure. It also so happens to be the oldest stretch of the original route taken by the king of Asturia (a region of Spain) in the 800s. We’d been considering it for a few days, but decided today we’d make the shift as well, and Jamie’s already on top of it — she bought a book, downloaded an itinerary, chatted with a few other pilgrims, and figured out which reservations we need to make in advance. Travelling with Jamie is SO EASY. I’m a lucky man. One of my major marriage perks. ☺
Thoughts & Discussions: Spain is SO AFFORDABLE. This whole Camino thing wouldn’t work in another country. Between the 5–15 euro albergues and the 10 euro “menu del dia”s, you get unprecedented value on your money… Cider is a big thing in Asturia (the region we’re about to enter), and I’m excited to drink a bunch of it… It’s really cool to stay in convents and monestaries that are repurposed as albergues. Today’s is SUPER NICE. We have a private room for 32 euros. It’d be >$80 in the States for sure… Sigor (new Basque Spanish friend) is such a character. Also, a man of many talents…
Day 15 — Santillana Del Mar => Comillas
When we started walking today, it was raining. This was a first for us on the trip. Up until today, we’d gotten really lucky and the rain was happening at night, so it didn’t affect our gear setup at all. So we got a chance to break out our backpack rain covers and our raincoats. Thankfully, it didn’t last long, and we were able to dry out our stuff and pack it back up. I was a little worried about getting our shoes wet — since they’re not waterproof, and a lot of miles on wet feet might cause a blister issue — but with only a light rain, our socks stayed dry. After that, the walk was great — cool weather, side roads, cute towns, and good views.
Thoughts & Discussions: Some people seem to travel and live abroad constantly, into their thirties and beyond. I wonder if it starts to feel like ‘same thing, different place’ and lack meaning… Most people we’ve gotten to know have been at some crossroads in their life. Are we at a crossroad?… Having a day where you stay at home and don’t go anywhere sounds great…
Day 16 — Comillas => Buelna
Today was a bigger one — 18 miles. We thought it would be quite a bit more than that actually, but we found a few shortcuts to shave off a few kilometers. We had to go further than we would have otherwise because people have been having a lot of trouble finding beds in the last few cities. So we decided to go a bit further than most people do, and also reserve our beds.
Today was also a first for us — the first time we walked most of the way with others. We met up with Arianna and Edmund about 1/3 of the way in, and we went the rest of the way together. It was great! Since we’ve spent quite a bit of time together prior to this, it didn’t feel like the same old small talk, and we didn’t feel too much pressure to maintain conversation since we’re already comfortable with them. Once we arrived, we all had a big lunch, and because of Sigor, we ended up with quite a bit of wine! 5 drinks later, we’re checked into our albergue, and everybody’s taking showers.
Thoughts & Discussions: Arianna, I’m hungry. Tell me about all the most amazing Italian foods… American and Australian politics… Farm stuff (Edmund is a farmer in Australia)… We snuck into the back of the albergue and put our dirty clothes into the laundry machine without permission. Sigor said we should…
Day 17 — Buelna => Celorio
Short day: 11 miles. We’ve figured out our selection criteria for where we want to sleep the next day, and therefore, how far we plan to walk. First, the goal is to walk somewhere between 14 and 20 miles per day, and we might want to go bigger or smaller based on the previous day, or if we know a big stretch is coming. Then, you look in the guidebook for towns that have both an albergue (hostel for pilgrims) and also have restaurants. Ideally, since there’s been a lot of competition lately for a limited number of beds, you call ahead and make a reservation. So, for example, the rationale for Celorio was: 11 miles was the furthest town with both an albergue and restaurants, that wasn’t far away, since we had a big day yesterday. The next town, Villahormes, was another 5 miles away.
Today we split up with most of our friends 😢. Edmund and Arianna decide to do a mega-day (46km). Sigor’s bussing home to Bilbao, and Lee’s flying back to San Sebastian. There are a few of our other pilgrim friends continuing on our same general itinerary (they’re in Pòo), but all of the friends around our age have moved on. It’s kind of sad, since we’ve spent so much time together and bonded a bunch, but it’s how the Camino goes. And, in some ways, it offers new opportunities. Now, Jamie and I can plan some of our stages maybe differently than we might have if we had a big group we wanted to coordinate with. Also, it’s almost like starting over. We made these great friends in two weeks, and we have another two weeks to make new ones! And with us starting a brand new route in a couple days (the “Primativo”), we may fall into lockstep with a bunch of other cool pilgrims. So, overall, bittersweet.
Thoughts & Discussions: I wonder if there’s any love interest between some of the single pilgrims that meet each other… We’ve really gotten in a groove with the Camino now. Our legs feel good, we have good routines, feelings strong… Where will we stay in Santiago?… There are household gardens everywhere. Should we have a garden and grow the vegis that we eat most often in our salads?…
Day 18 — Celorio => Vega
Today. Amazing. Where to begin?
We left Celorio planning on a big day, 31 kilometers (19 miles). It rained last night and it was misting this morning. We started at 6:40 at a quick pace, hoping to get in a few kilometers without needing to put on raincoats and backpack rain covers. We put in a solid two hours before we started looking for a place for breakfast. After a few towns, we found the best one yet in Nueve. We had a ton of food, took care of some #2 business, and when we left, we felt like a million bucks.
Pro Tip: Albergue breakfasts are shit. Whether they’re "included," or an additional 4-5 euros, they’re terrible. They’re coffee, bread, and maybe cereal. We learned early on to skip them. Now, we only get breakfasts at cafes along the way where we can buy tortilla de patatas (basically, huge quiches), coffee, fresh squeezed orange juice, and small sandwiches. WAY BETTER. And basically the same price. It pays to wait.
We decided to take the more lengthy, coastal route. (There are often different routes we can pick. Usually the more scenic one is longer distance or more difficult, and there’s a shorter, eaasier one along the road.) Unlike most places on the Camino, there were very few signs, but we managed to find some INCREDIBLE views using Google Maps and trial and error. We snapped some great photos (if I do say so myself). And we soaked our shoes walking through water-drenched, overhanging brush along the way. Then we got lost in a jungle obstacle course along a narrow inlet and ended up on the other route, which added extra km to an already long day.
We rolled into Ribadesella about an hour and a half later than planned, and we were exhausted and starving. We found a menu del dia, and a bit later (beer and wine, appetizers, main entrees, dessert, coffee), we were looking to stay there. Jamie made a bunch of calls, and everything was booked. Our original goal was to hike another 6 km (3.5 miles) to a very cool-sounding, but tiny albergue in a small town. We had hoped to get there at 3:30, when they opened, but it was 5 now. We decided to walk that way, and call when we were close, and if they were full, we’d check into our backup option, which was on the way. Lo and behold, there ended up being 3 beds left, and we got into our ideal scenario at 6--far later than anyone can expect to get a bed. WE LUCKED OUT. We had a lovely community dinner, and drank a bottle of wine on the beach with our new Czech friend, Mira. Great day.
Day 19 — Vega => Amandi
Even thought we had 20 miles to go, we slept in a bit and had a slow start to the morning. And when we left, I was a bit over-confident on the route we should take. Unfortunately for us, it was our first big navigational mistake. We went in the wrong direction for a couple miles and had to backtrack to get on the official route. With the late start, and then a wrong turn, it was 9am before we made any real progress — about two hours later than usual. Then, Jamie had more blister issues than usual, and we needed to stop a few times to address those. All told, we were race walking into Villaviciosa at 3:30 to try and find a menu del dia for lunch at the last minute, since that’s when they typically stop serving. (For context, menu del dia is my favorite part of the day. I REALLY, REALLY hate missing menu del dia.) We missed it. But we managed with two big beers each and some stale sandwiches from a bar before hiking the last mile to our albergue.
And we were reunited with Edmund and Arianna! We thought we wouldn’t see them again after they went out ahead of us a few days ago, but with two 20 mile days in a row, we caught back up, and coincidentally we went to the same albergue! It was great to catch up, hang out on the nice shaded lawn, play with the albergue’s two tiny kittens, and drink a bunch of camino vino. It was a great night, and we fell asleep happy. ☺️
Thoughts & Discussions: Is life worth living without a menu del dia?… We cut it too close. There are a bunch of things out of your control that can slow you down, but we need to get started earlier, so we don’t miss menu del dia…
Day 20 — Amandi => Pola de Siero
Breakfast was lovely. Tons of freshly brewed, real coffee (not that instant bullshit) from Colombia. This truly was the best albergue we’ve visited. It had a great vibe, great hosts, and we loved it. Like all our favorites, it was by donation (donativo), and we gave the most we have yet, 45 euros (considered a very generous amount).
Today was the first official day of us taking the “Primativo” route. This is a divergence from the Camino del Norte, the coastal route we started on, and originally intended to walk the entire way to Santiago. The Primativo is a more rugged, more elevation, more trails, less traveled option, and it was actually the original route taken by the first official pilgrim to Santiago in the 800s. Pretty cool. Today we climbed probably 2,500 vertical feet of elevation, about 17 miles total, but we finished early, at about 1:30pm.
Edmund actually has his brother with him now, Mateland, and he’s a fascinating guy. He’s 24, but he’s travelled more than anyone I’ve ever met. I told him we were thinking about our next major international trip, to Colombia, and he said he’s spent over 6 months there. He gave me a bunch of tips about how to best spend 4 weeks there. And then later, he, Edmund, and I had great conversations about national origin stories, Trump, climate change, psychedelics, mindfulness, life extension, and many other things. We have great Camino friends.
Day 21 — Pola de Siero => Oviedo
(Written a day later…) Last night, the host at the municipal albergue asked us if we’d hang around until 8 the following morning so that we could be filmed as pilgrims in a Camino de Santiago promotion. Apparently we’d get some good breakfast out of it. We said sure. Later on, the local president of the Friends of the Camino chapter (Manuel) was over, and Jamie and him hit it off. They chatted for hours about the Camino, it’s history, and the Primativo route we were about to take. Jamie got to use a lot of Spanish, and she was thrilled. I felt like a mute dummy. After that, our group went out for dinner and drinks, and we had a great time.
I woke up at 4am to a somewhat distant sound of a woman’s voice and slamming. At first I thought, “WTF is someone doing using their outdoor voice at 4am?!” When it kept happening, I was very annoyed. I tried to sleep through it. And then I realized the voice kept saying the same thing, on the same cadence. Then I thought it might be an alarm, and it would continue all night. So I got out of the top bunk and investigated. It was the elevator, glitching out. The door was opening and closing repeatedly, shining light, making slamming noises, and saying that annoying sentence. I pushed every button, but it wouldn’t stop. At this point Jamie was up too, and we started troubleshooting together. When nothing worked, we found the phone numbers of the albergue hosts and called. Right as one of them answered, it stopped, but they said to use ‘the box’ to shut it off if it happened again. We went back to bed, and it started 15 minutes later. Jamie went downstairs to the fuse box, turned it off, problem solved.
Knowing we’d be around until 8am, we slept in, and came downstairs with our packs. The Spanish film crew was late (typical), but Manuel brought the food on time, so we just watched that and salivated until it was show time. I thought we’d be in the background, just chatting, but we actually acted! I had to pour Spanish cider on camera, and so did everybody else. We were nervous, but after our 5th bottle, everyone had a good buzz on, and the acting was easier. Afterwards, they told us that it’d be used for Camino de Santiago promotions across Europe. 😳 We got a late, full-tummy, buzzed start to our walk, and it ended up being a hot day into one of the biggest cities yet, full of smog, cars, and noise.
Thoughts & Discussions: Is it weird that we haven’t had major life realizations yet?… Gill (new friend from England, also in the promo video) is really cool… Big cities are overwhelming when you’re backpacking…
Day 22 — Oviedo => Grado
Our walk out of Oviedo was really foggy, and we spent the whole hour looking for a water fountain. In EVERY other city, they’re everywhere you look, but in Oviedo, nowhere. Jamie drinks water like a fish (about 3 times as much as I do), so, of course, she had run out from the previous day. Eventually, I poured her half of the water I had left over from the previous day. But then we found a fountain in a small town after walking about 4 miles. Thanks for nothing, Oviedo… (dicks!)
Today was light, 15 miles. We checked into our albergue at 2:15, got situated, and walked to a menu del dia for lunch. Like all our lunches, it was a 3 course affair, for dirt cheap, and we drank two pints of beer and a bottle of wine. 🥴 (We’re not alcoholics; that’s what comes standard! (But the beers were extra… 🤫)). We got back to the albergue at about 4:30, and that gave me an hour to take a shower and mostly sober up for a job interview at 5:30. 😋 It went well! Now we’re hanging out in the shade and figuring out what to do with our evening.
Thoughts & Discussions: How can we adopt some of the Spanish norms we like into our Boise lifestyle?… Maybe Jamie and I should go out to breakfast together one weekday morning a week… Maybe I should start trail running in the morning… Maybe I should set a new year’s resolution to complete the Idaho Centennial Trail, in segments, by the end of 2020…
Day 23 — Grado => Bodenaya
Today's walk was 18 miles, and a lot of it was uphill. So, we earned our menu del dia in Salas, about 4 miles from our final destination. And it was a first of it's kind! 3 savory courses and dessert, instead of 2. 🤯
Also, this was the second time I've hiked drunk. I'd like to announce that drunk hiking is great. It gives me an extra gear, and with my buzz on, I feel like my legs are disconnected from the rest of my body. They're just churning, like a machine, and I'm just along for the ride, enjoying the sights and sounds. I ran-hiked for about 2 miles, straight up, and didn't slow down a bit. #CheatCodeUnlocked
Day 24 — Bodenaya => Campiello
The albergue we stayed in last night was amazing. It’s in contention for the best one of the trip. We made reservations a few days in advance when we were told it’s a must stay, and when we arrived around 4pm, the host told us “I’m going to smoke a cigarette, but set your packs down, grab a beer from the fridge, and help yourself to fruit or cake on the table. This is your home for tonight.” And they told us to throw our dirty laundry in the hamper, and breakfast, everything would be cleaned and dried, and laying out for us. And so it was. Amazing. These donation hostels (“donativo”) are incredible. Everything is shared, and everyone donates what they can into the box before they leave. There’s not passive aggressive recommendations, or anything. There’s a culture of abundant sharing. I’ve never felt so at home while travelling.
Today’s hike got me really excited about starting the Camino Primitivo. It’s the original pilgrimage route from 840, and it runs through the Spanish mountains, to Santiago. Though the coastal walks of the Camino del Norte were very nice, I’m enjoying more of a traditional hiking challenge with elevation and mountain scenery. Tomorrow we’ll be hiking past the highest point of the route.
Day 25 — Campiello => Berdocedo
We hiked through the highest point of the Camino today, ~1200 meters. It was beautiful, and all our friends thought it was amazing. Don’t get me wrong, it was cool. But, it’s got nothing on Idaho and Nevada.
After lots of elevation and a longish feeling day (28km), we arrived at our menu del dia ready to plow through whatever they put in front of us. They gave us a ton of chicken and beef, 3 bottles of wine, and we were extremely satisfied. That’s when Jamie walked back into the dining room after a phone call and broke the news — the albergue reservation we had for five feel through. Apparently, “no one wrote it down.” Ensue collective freakout.
One hour later, we’ve called on about 8 albergues in the 3 nearest towns, and THEY’RE ALL FULL. A huge tour group booked out an entire place to themselves, and the municipal albergue was closed for improvements. Shitballs. Edmund, Maitland, and Arianna decided to camp out, but Jamie managed to find one private room for us to stay in two towns ahead. I was feeling mopey, but Edmund bought everyone a round of beers while we waited for our bus.
After a windy mountain road version of Crazy Taxi, our bus dropped us off, and we barely managed not to vomit. We checked into our dilapidated hotel room, that had rusty water dripping down the walls, the biggest spider I’ve seen in a long while in the sink, and an exceptionally dirty bathroom. We handled our laundry, prayed that we wouldn’t wake up with bedbugs, and rolled around while noisy locals yelled at each other over beers until 2am. Great night. We woke up early to catch the bus back to where we left our buds, and started the next day. “The camino always gives you what you need. Not always what you want.”
Day 26 — Berdocedo => Castro
Today’s hike was traversing a canyon, crossing a dam, and going back up the other side, mostly on a mountain road. It was pretty, but thankfully, it was a short day.
For the last few days I’ve been thinking about big walks as a great form of vacation, personal development, and cultural education. By walking through cities, towns, and countrysides over the course of weeks, you learn a ton about a country, their language, their sense of humor, mannerisms, food (my favorite part), lifestyles, and religion. I’ve loved doing this in Spain, and I feel like I’ve “caught the bug” to do this more places. I can’t think of a better way to travel.
Day 27 — Castro => O Pineiral
The albergue in Castro that we stayed at last night was great. It was a good facility, with a great selection of healthy foods and drinks, set in a tiny rural town, about 2 miles outside of the bigger town, Grandas. We loved it and found it very relaxing. A few Russian pilgrims that we’d seen off and on for the last few days were also there, and we finally chatted with them. We had a great discussion about Russian and American politics and society. It was one of their birthdays, so we bought and shared a bottle of wine with them. Very nice.
Today’s hike was extremely foggy. Visibility was only about 20 yards or so until about 2pm. Though it was novel, and kind of fun, it was a little bit of a bummer because we were walking through some scenic areas with a fair amount of elevation. Oh well… We stopped in Fonsagrada for menu del dia and some shopping, and then trudged on to our all-inclusive albergue two miles further, in the woods. The facilities are amazing, probably the best, and we have the whole place to ourselves pretty much. It’s really weird, since we’ve been battling with hoards of pilgrims for every bed in the albergues for the last 10 days or so. 🤷♂️
It was actually really good timing for me, because I’m in an interviewing process with CREDO right now, and I just got sent an assessment exercise to complete in the next few days. So I took advantage of the solid wifi and lack of neighbors. I holed up in the kitchen for two hours and wrote SQL code on my phone (wasn’t easy). I think it turned out okay. I’ll find out next week if I’m moving on to the final step. 🤞
Day 28 — O Pineiral => Castroverde
We hit the road a bit after 8am today with the plan of passing the town that most people would be going to and going an extra 8 km to dodge the crowds. As I’ve mentioned a few times, it’s been a “bed race” in the mornings to get to the bunkhouses that don’t take reservations. Of those that do take reservations, they’re booked out for days. One tour bus of retirees is walking short segments, without packs, and then their air conditioned bus takes them to their next section, with refreshments of course. There’s nothing wrong with that on it’s own — ”everyone’s has their own camino” — but they’re booking out entire bunk houses that normal pilgrims would stay in. Some of them aren’t getting beds. Not cool at all. This group is a topic of conversation with virtually all pilgrims, and some are orienting their itineraries to avoid them (like us). It’s a pity. This isn’t how the Camino is supposed to work.
After seeing our buddies on the way this morning, and stopping at 10am for a pitcher of sangria (🥰), tortillas de patatas, and coffee, we split up and powered through another 20 km (12 miles) in 4 hours without stopping. (We’re pretty badass at this point.) We checked into our albergue (it’s really cool), and went downtown for a menu del dia and a short shopping trip. Now we’re all stocked up, showered, and going to do a bit of laundry before hanging out. Later, we’ll probably get a glass of wine or two near the city plaza and chill out.
Day 29 — Castroverde => Lugo
Today’s hike was a short one, at 22 km (~13 miles). For the first hour or so, we reflected on how weird it is that we’re only 4 walking days from finishing. The first week, it was daunting, and our bodies took a beating. The second week, we felt tire and blistered, and it felt like the Camino would last forever. The third week, we healed and got stronger. We figured out our processes, and got in the flow of things. We were more present and enjoyed things more. It went by really fast. Now, in the fourth week, we’re shocked to see that we’re almost done. We feel like we’re in our element now. Fully healthy, strong, great endurance, and things feel easy. It’s bittersweet that it’s ending. We’re already feeling nostalgic about it.
Day 30 — Lugo => As Seixas
Lugo was incredible. It’s a beautiful, walled Roman city with a ton of character. We walked the whole length of the wall in the afternoon, and then we partook in their famous bar scene. After 8pm, anywhere you buy a drink, they bring you two tapas (small bites) for free — one from a platter of 4–6 thinks they carry around, and one that you get to choose from the kitchen. I wasn’t expecting much, considering the tapas we’d had the last couple weeks, but these were AMAZING. Such good food. So, naturally, I wanted to game the system. We each got 5 drinks in about two hours, all at different places, and got to try lots of great little foods. At the end of the night, we’d only spent 25 euros. Incredible.
Day 31 — As Seixas => Arzua
Today was our last normal length day of walking, 28 km (17 miles). We only have 40k left to walk, and we’re going to do it in two leisurely 20k days. Our Camino has practically ended, and we’re feeling reflective. It’s very bittersweet, and feels like a graduation of some sorts — at times feeling ready to be done, at others, not wanting it to end.
Day 32 — Arzua => O Pedrouzo
Yesterday we ate some of the most delicious pizza of our lives at a random Italian pizzeria, off the main road. We just got lucky — no recommendation or anything. And two groups were so impressed with the pizza we ordered, they asked what it was. At the end, some Italians sitting next to us told us this is very good pizza, even for Italians. We were pleased. I was tempted to stay in that town an extra day, just to eat there again.
Today’s walk was short (12 miles) and uneventful. Tomorrow, our camino ends. Weird.
Day 33 — O Pedrouzo => Santiago
In Santiago. The final destination. The 31 days and 500 miles, to get here. We did it. It’s surreal.
Standing in the plaza, looking at the cathedral, it was hard to believe it’s over. The walk was so big, and took so long, that for most of the time, we didn’t quite comprehend a finish — it just felt like it would go on forever. But now it’s over.
Jamie’s brother, Daniel, joined us right after we got there, and he’s with us for the rest of our trip — two days in Santiago, then a week in Porto, Portugal. Chilling a few days on the beach, and then four days in the city, is just what the doctor ordered.
And now, my walk has ended.
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News – El Camino College Federation of Teachers
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LACCD, Long Beach, Cerritos, SMC, North Orange County, and Rio Hondo, to name just a few of our peers, have settled their negotiations for 2023-2024. Our contract expired December 31, 2022. We are now in mediation, with a state appointed mediator.
Until we have a contract, ECC faculty and our allies will be marching on campus, showing up to administrator office hours, and speaking before the Board of Trustees. And probably taking a strike authorization vote if the District tries to impose a subpar contract like the one faculty accepted in 2010.
Why are we and our allies marching?
From 2010 to 2020, the ECC salary schedules, salaries, and health benefits have eroded compared to our peers and in terms of the actual cost of living (housing, food, insurance, transportation, utilities, etc.). Are our colleagues at other colleges doing better work than us? Is that what the District is telling us?
In the 2020 contract negotiations, the District’s negotiating team delayed negotiations for months, offering uncompetitive benefits packages, and repeatedly proposing zero COLAs during the life of the contract. At the time, the District’s team stated that the ECC budget, the state budget, and the economy all presented conditions where ECC might have to apply for high interest loans to keep the lights on because ECC’s income and reserves would not meet operating expenses. The Federation’s leadership team asked administrators for evidence to support these claims and received none.
At the height of the pandemic, the District’s negotiating team ground faculty down at the bargaining table month after month until our members, uncertain in the middle of a pandemic and working with an expired contract, accepted a contract that continued to put us on a trajectory to fall significantly farther behind our peers. Then, predictably, during the life of the 2020 contract, ECC’s unrestricted general fund grew from $34,231,353 (actuals at end of FY 2019-2020) to $56,597,101 (actuals at end of FY 2021-2022) while the proportion of ECC’s budget going to faculty salaries and benefits decreased. While we understand that some of the increase in reserves was derived from one-time money, the District’s predictions from the 2020 negotiating table were nonetheless wildly inaccurate. The faculty at ECC largely bore the burden of the District’s inaccurate budget predictions at the 2020 negotiating table in the form of significantly lower pay and uncompetitive benefits. Even after accounting for the hard-fought increases that the Federation achieved in the 2021 reopener, which still did not recover the state-funded COLA amount during that period, ECC faculty now find ourselves even farther behind their peers.
In the 2023 contract negotiations, we have repeatedly asked the District’s team how other districts manage their budgets in such a way that offering COLA (or more) to the salary schedules, competitive healthcare programs, and progressive mid- to late-career salaries is possible while maintaining a healthy reserve and functioning college. (By the way, the proposed 2023-2024 Cerritos budget will add to their reserve.) Generally, our experience has been that the District’s team recycles the same unsupported arguments from 2020 about an unknown but financially devastating future. The District’s team has not expressed what makes us different from other colleges and districts, just that it would be financially imprudent for ECC to be like them.
Taking the District’s concerns at face value, in addition to substantially reducing our proposal to well below what many of our peers have already secured in ratified contracts, we are currently proposing a shorter contract duration, ending June 30, 2024, which would allow the District’s administration and faculty the benefit of more data to better understand our budget and funding. This approach also locks the District in for a lesser total financial obligation over the course of this shorter contract. Members of the District’s negotiating team have instead decided to repeat the 2020 approach at the table with the goal of grinding us down into accepting a contract that faculty are unable to ratify. This is doing irreparable harm to faculty morale, recruitment, and retention.
Our members, tired of historic inflation gobbling up their household income, are tired of hearing how ECC can’t do what other districts do while simultaneously hearing reports of how we are hitting our enrollment goals and adding substantially to our reserves. Our members are tired of working without a new contract, and the improvements in compensation and working conditions that it would bring. Finally, we are extremely disappointed by the District’s refusal to discuss the Federation’s collaborative solutions at the table and further disheartened that the District pivoted to a final offer after presenting few, and in some cases singular, proposals on some items.
Until we have the contract we deserve from the District’s team, please lend a hand when you can, show up to actions, and speak your mind about how you feel about the current state of negotiations. Sign up here.
Los Angeles Unified union members, both teachers and support workers, attend a rally last month at Los Angeles Historic State Park. United Teachers Los Angeles and the district announced a tentative agreement Tuesday. (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)
BY HOWARD BLUME STAFF WRITER APRIL 18, 2023 9:58 AM PT
The Los Angeles school district and the teachers union have reached a tentative agreement that provides a 21% wage increase over about three years, averting the potential of a second strike this school year.
The package also calls for additional pay increases in areas where it has been hard to recruit staff. These include an added $20,000 salary bump for nurses and $3,000 ongoing for school psychologists, psychiatric social workers, attendance counselors and other special services providers. All of these workers are represented by the United Teachers Los Angeles union.
The pact also includes an extra $2,500 ongoing increase for special education teachers and a $1,500 ongoing raise for early education teachers. There’s long been a shortage of permanent teachers for students with disabilities. The early education field is growing with the expansion of transitional kindergarten as an optional grade for all 4-year-olds.
“This agreement with UTLA is a necessary step not only to make Los Angeles Unified the district of choice for families but also the district of choice for teachers and employees,” Supt. Alberto Carvalho said. “I am grateful that we reached an agreement with UTLA in a manner that reflects the dedicated work of our employees, provides a better academic experience for our students and raises the standards of compensation in Los Angeles and across the country.”
The union hailed the agreement as well but expressed a different tone with respect to the other side at the table.
“While Carvalho and the district spent the past year ignoring and undermining educators, students, and parents, we were fighting for a fair contract that meets the urgent needs of today and builds a strong foundation for public schools,” a union release stated.
The union also credited its participation in a three-day joint strike in March that was led by Local 99 of Service Employees International Union. Local 99 represents the largest number of non-teaching employees, about 30,000 workers. The teachers union represents about 35,000.
“We picketed, rallied, and walked the line in a historic solidarity strike to demand respect for all education workers,” the union stated. “Every win in this tentative agreement below is a direct result of our collective power in the streets.”
In its release, the union, like the district, led with the salary increase, but it also called attention to class reductions.
These reductions are small, about two students per class over the life of the contract, but continue ongoing efforts to make classes smaller. The deal prioritizes the district’s 100 most “fragile” schools for the reductions, using a designation based on low student achievement and other factors.
Caseloads for professionals such as counselors will also be reduced, but they remain large. The maximum caseload for a secondary school academic counselor would be lowered from 750 to 700.
The agreement must be ratified by the union membership and approved by the Board of Education.
There seems little doubt that the school board will favor it, as indicated by board President Jackie Goldberg.
“I am thrilled Los Angeles Unified and UTLA have reached an agreement that fairly compensates our incredible educators,” Goldberg said in the district release. “The negotiation process is laborious but critical to ensure our contracts address the needs of our employees. I am thankful to everyone who sat at the table and came to this agreement.”
Local 99 reached a tentative agreement March 24 that was subsequently ratified by its members.
Source: https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2023-04-18/l-a-teachers-win-21-wage-increase-in-new-lausd-contract
BY HOWARD BLUME, STAFF WRITER DEC. 6, 2022 5 AM PT
https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2022-12-06/l-a-teachers-union-is-demanding-a-20-raise-and-rallies-to-step-up-contract-talks
The Los Angeles teachers union is pressing its demands for a 20% raise over two years, smaller class sizes and a steep reduction in standardized testing — the latest stress test for the nation’s second-largest school district and Supt. Alberto Carvalho as the system struggles to address students’ deep learning setbacks and mental health needs in the wake of the pandemic.
For United Teachers Los Angeles — which staged three simultaneous rallies Monday across the vast school system — its contract platform speaks to the intense pressures that members say are pummeling their profession, leading to dire teacher shortages in California and throughout the nation. Ongoing economic uncertainties and the high costs of living and housing in Los Angeles have intensified their focus on contract talks as teachers worry about career sustainability and increasing workloads.
“When you can’t even afford to live when you work, we got a problem y’all,” UTLA President Cecily Myart-Cruz said in impassioned remarks that closed the rally outside district headquarters just west of downtown. “This district has had seven whole months to address the educator shortage and to make sure that every student has a classroom teacher, every student has a school nurse, every student has a counselor and a librarian and mental health support.”
Speakers at the rally included newly elected school board member Rocio Rivas, who benefited from a multimillion-dollar independent campaign on her behalf from the teachers union.
While Myart-Cruz sought to fire up her rank-and-file, school district officials sought to tamp things down.
“Los Angeles Unified continues to meet with our labor partners regularly,” according to a statement the district issued in the afternoon. “We respect and acknowledge the dedication of our employees and the need to compensate them fairly in this current economic environment. We remain dedicated to avoiding protracted negotiations to keep the focus on our students and student achievement.”
At the rallies, participants focused on record multibillion-dollar reserves, with the message that if teachers and other employees can’t be rewarded and helped now, then when would it ever be possible?
Carvalho, in turn, has focused attention on potential difficulties ahead. Financial forecasters, including the state legislative analyst, warn of an economic downturn just as one-time COVID-19 relief aid is winding down. A raise that is affordable in 2022 must still be paid for three years from now — when money is likely to be tighter, and when steadily declining student enrollment could create more financial pressures.
The L.A. Unified labor actions come as a massive strike among UC academic workers enters its fourth week, with 48,000 teaching assistants, tutors, graduate student researchers and post-doctoral scholars also decrying the high cost of California housing in their demand for a significant pay increase, along with more support for child care, healthcare and transportation. The workers have rallied on campuses throughout the state for several weeks and held sit-ins on Monday, with sides far apart on money.
A common theme for both unions has been the high cost of living in the region, which teachers brought up repeatedly at the downtown union rally.
“As someone who’s new to L.A., teachers do not make enough money to live in the city at all,” said Nekhoe Hogan, a third-year teacher at Manual Arts High School, south of downtown. “The public needs to recognize that teachers are asking for basic necessities, and then to have working conditions be normal — not too many kids in the classroom, not too many administrative things to take care of that prevents them from actually doing their job just teaching kids.”
Other factors also are making the job challenging, including working with students who are behind academically and have greater emotional needs because of pandemic hardships.
“There are many things that they should know currently that they don’t know,” Hogan said. “And so I feel a sort of responsibility to make up two years of education within a semester essentially — and that’s impossible.”
The rallies included parent supporters. Some other parent leaders, who did not attend, are concerned about labor strife leading to more potential learning disruptions. The previous contract settlement was reached only after a one-week strike in January 2019.
Families “are tired of the politics and endless chaos,” said Christie Pesicka, a spokesperson for a parents group that has been critical of the teachers union. “Enrollment is plummeting. By the time the bickering settles, there may not be enough students left for LAUSD to remain solvent.”
Negotiations with United Teachers Los Angeles are relatively distinct. Beyond seeking a pay increase, the union is pushing for changes in the way students are schooled in their “Beyond Recovery” platform, which aims to “ensure our neighborhood public schools meet the unique needs of students, families, and educators in each community.”
Saying that standardized assessments take valuable time from learning, the union is calling for elimination or dramatic reduction of such tests when they are not required by the state or federal government.
Carvalho has acknowledged that such assessments are not always well organized or consistent from one region of the district to another, but has defended their intent. The tests are used as fundamental measures to guide instruction across the system, especially under the data-oriented Carvalho.
Some of what the union frames as demands are in line with district goals, such as expanded access to dual-language programs and more ethnic studies classes. Like the union, the district supports putting a full-time nurse in every school, but hasn’t been able to hire them in a competitive job market.
The union wants a class-size reduction of four students everywhere over the next two years. The district wants to target reductions to where it’s needed most — based on academic performance and the percentage of low-income families.
Some critics view many union proposals off topic or the prerogative of management. But even with the bread-and-butter agenda, UTLA is known for pushing hard compared with teacher unions elsewhere — and such is the case with the 20% wage proposal.
The district is so far offering 8% according to bargaining updates that the union posts online.
UTLA leaders take pride in having a curricular and social agenda — the union’s platform calls for installing solar panels and buying electric buses.
The union package also calls for a freeze on school closures — which are increasingly hard to avoid as enrollment shrinks — and an end to “the over-policing and criminalization of students in schools.”
The platform does not explicitly call for the end of school police, although union leadership supports its elimination. A union proposal submitted earlier this year sought to “end all requirements for the engagement of police except where mandated by federal, state or local law requiring the involvement of police.”
The union bargaining platform also calls for the district to “push for” federal “housing vouchers to support LAUSD families” and to “convert vacant LAUSD property into housing for low-income families” — although it’s challenging to see how these elements would be enforced through a teachers contract.
Other L.A. Unified bargaining units have typically benefited from UTLA’s hard line — as their raises and benefits have come to mirror those fought for by UTLA. Another union, however, is independently assertive, Local 99 of Service Employees International Union, which represents the largest number of nonteaching employees, including bus drivers, teacher aides, custodians and cafeteria workers.
Local 99 members include some of the lowest wage earners in the school system — earning $25,000 a year on average for work that is frequently part time. They’ve scheduled their own rally for next week.
In the big picture, 2022 has been a year of relative labor calm for K-12 education in California.
“Record funding — so many districts are settling early and working collaboratively with employees to improve programs, et cetera,” said Frank Wells, a regional spokesman for the California Teachers Assn. “Others for whatever reason are taking an unnecessarily hard-line approach.”
In particular, Wells was talking about Covina-Valley Unified, where teachers came within hours of going on strike last week. That strike was averted with a tentative agreement. In Glendale, the teachers union and school district are in mediation.
Many of us at El Camino College have attended the University of California. Our friends and family have gone there. Thousands of our students have transferred there.
Currently, the UC Office of the President is engaged in unfair bargaining, refusing to make good faith proposals at the bargaining table in the area of salary and compensation. We encourage you to write UC chancellors in support of our colleagues across the state and lend a hand to those on strike. For the latest details, and ways you can help, you can check these sites:
https://uaw2865.org/
https://uaw5810.org/
For a summary of the events leading up to the strike, you can read the below LA Times article.
Nearly a week into UC strike, little bargaining progress, but support for workers grows
BY SUMMER LIN, GRACE TOOHEY, UPDATED NOV. 18, 2022 11:20 AM PT
Menelik Tafari, a fourth-year urban schooling graduate student at UCLA, walked off the job Monday with about 48,000 other University of California academic workers to strike for better pay and benefits. Since his daughter was born in May with complications, he said, he and his wife have struggled to pay for the child care she needs.
Tafari, 32, is one of the organizers behind what has been billed as the largest work stoppage at any academic institution. And as the strike entered its fourth day Thursday, halting research and prompting widespread class cancellations across the UC system’s 10 campuses, the workers said their action has brought to light their financial hardships and difficult working conditions.
“Because my daughter was born with complications, we’ve been on seizure watch,” Tafari said. “We have been very lucky because my mother-in-law has been taking over as the primary caregiver. We pay her around $1,500 a month, depending on what’s going on. But if we didn’t have a family member who was willing and able, we’d be paying about $2,500 a month.”
Tafari earns about $2,500 a month as a teaching assistant and said he has taken other jobs to supplement the income and cover the costs of raising his daughter. In negotiations, the university has proposed covering $2,500 a year in child-care costs for postdoctoral scholars, but Tafari said that isn’t enough.
On Thursday, the union representing academic workers said the two sides had made progress on issues of parking and transit, job security provisions and paid time off. But on compensation, a major sticking point, the UC’s slight increase fell short of union demands.
The union said the new offer amounted to raises of about $132 a month for most student researchers, which would leave many workers paying 56% of their income on rent. The proposal also failed to include in the contract any supplemental compensation, which many graduate workers would receive in addition to base salaries.
“We still think this is far from sufficient,” said Rafael Jaime, president of United Auto Workers Local 2865, which represents 19,000 of the striking workers.
Ryan King, a spokesperson for UC, pointed out that the university’s latest proposal eliminates the two lowest salary steps for graduate researchers, which would amount to significant increases for those workers, closer to 20%, calling it a “generous proposal.” But he did say the average increase would be around 8% for most graduate student researchers.
On Wednesday, UC Provost Michael Brown told university leaders in a letter that the union’s pay and housing demands would be an “overwhelming” financial hit that could reach several hundred million dollars a year.
Pushing back, the union said the four UAW bargaining units representing striking workers are asking for a package that would amount to 4.5% of UC’s total budget.
“That’s a fair price to pay for world-class teaching and research,” the union said in an email.
Though UC officials called for a third-party mediator Monday, Jaime said he was glad the university has continued to bargain without one.
Jaime accused UC of dragging its feet, saying the university bargained Wednesday and Thursday with only one of the four striking units: that representing graduate student researchers.
“It’s very inefficient,” Jaime said. “We want to be bargaining around the clock.”
Meanwhile, as polls show U.S. support for labor unions at its highest point in nearly 60 years amid a wave of high-profile campaigns at companies such as Starbucks and Amazon, backing for the UC strike has grown among some students, faculty and workers at other unions.
Faculty members said they’ve held “teach-ins” about the strike or brought their classes down to the picket line, and some professors have canceled classes altogether.
Though lecturers in the UC system have a clause in their contract against canceling their classes in “sympathy strikes,” Katie Rodger, president of the UC-AFT, said the union that represents about 6,000 UC lecturers and librarians is encouraging members to support striking workers by joining the picket lines when not carrying out assigned duties.
Undergraduate support for the strikers has surpassed 16,000 signatures, and the union has received almost 50 letters of support from faculty and departments across the 10 campuses.
Among those departments is the ethnic studies department at UC San Diego, where assistant professor Roy Pérez, said he teaches both undergraduate and graduate classes, including one with more than 400 students that usually has seven teaching assistants.
“UCSD could not meet the educational needs of so many students without the work of TAs,” Pérez said. “TAs’ working conditions should be a top financial investment if the UC system wants to sustain the quality of education it promises while pursuing record-breaking enrollment numbers.”
Nick Callen, a fourth-year undergrad at UC San Diego, said two of his classes have been indefinitely canceled as the strike continues. One of his professors has gone on with business as usual, not mentioning the strike or changing classes.
“I am a little concerned just because it’s close to the end of the quarter,” Callen said of his disrupted classes. “It’s like we’re on hold until we hear something back from the strike. … It is really stressful, but I’m glad that they’re doing it.”
Amina Hearns, a fourth-year UC Riverside student, tutor represented by the UAW and the chair of the UC Student Assn., said there’s a divide between undergraduates in humanities, arts and social sciences who support the strike and students in math and science who tend to be less supportive. She said the divide can be attributed to misinformation from the administration and some of their professors.
“They try forcing this grad students versus undergraduate students,” she said. “Like ‘Look, they’re not striking and not grading your work and that’s why you’re behind.’ And that’s not true at all. The fact that they’re not reading your work is because they’re not getting the demands that they need.”
Teamsters, the union representing drivers and other workers, notified UPS drivers in southern and northern California that they have the right to honor the picket line and not deliver packages to campuses during the strike.
At UC Berkeley, strikers spoke Wednesday morning with workers from the International Union of Operating Engineers, the International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers and the Laborers’ International Union of North America. The union members agreed not to work at the construction site in solidarity with the strike.
The workers are demanding a base salary of $54,000 for all graduate student workers, child-care subsidies, enhanced healthcare for dependents, longer family leave, public transit passes and lower tuition costs for international scholars. The union said the workers earn an average current pay of about $24,000 a year.
UC has offered salary scale increases of 7% in the first year and 3% in each subsequent year for teaching assistants and tutors, and increases for postdoctoral scholars of 8% the first year, 5% the second year and 3% in subsequent years. UC said pay increases would amount to up to 17%, depending on the union.
Between his four-year fellowship and a guaranteed job doing medical education research for the school, Tafari is able to cover the tuition and fees for his program, but because his fellowship is over in June, he said he’ll have to pay about $40,000 a year to finish his degree.
“If you’re undocumented, if you’re poor and an international student, if you don’t come from generational wealth, the odds of you being able to get a graduate degree is slim to none,” he said. That “really makes it so that we have fewer of the best and brightest here, doing the quality research that can transform our society to something that we all can be proud of.”
https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2022-11-17/uc-strike-little-bargaining-progress-but-support-for-workers-grows
September 5, 2022 update
Because of the mobilization of faculty, family, friends, and allies across the state (see original story and ask below), the California legislature allocated $200 million for PT health care benefits. This historic victory means that community college districts can be reimbursed from this $200 million fund to provide PT health care benefits to their employees, but districts are not obligated to do so.
That means that across the state, local unions need to negotiate with their employers to ensure these funds are used on our campuses. Such a deal seems like a no-brainer. However, in many districts administrators will resist using this money to provide a basic human right.
At El Camino College, the Federation will be negotiating this new benefit for PT faculty and will need your support and help. To get involved in the campaign, please contact the chair of our PT committee, Laila Dellapasqua at vespa250cc@gmail.com
Below is the original story published February 23, 2022.
Far too many part-time faculty in California do not have access to affordable quality healthcare. The lack of healthcare access for many part-timers, a reality made all the more pernicious and conspicuous during a pandemic, is symptomatic of the far-reaching exploitation of contingent faculty. A majority of part-time faculty across California have deemed the creation of a healthcare pool important.1
In response, CFT launched a state-wide campaign in October 2021 to secure healthcare funding for part-time faculty. This campaign has already achieved a foundational win. In January 2022, Governor Newsom allocated $200 million for part-time healthcare to the state budget. This is significant as it represents an increase of almost 400 times the existing funding for part-time healthcare!2
But, we have more work to do. We need guarantees that this funding will remain in the state budget. Part-time faculty deserve quality healthcare that is affordable, and we must continue the work for a more equitable higher education system. We are asking our colleagues to please support this effort in the following ways:
Send a letter to the state legislature to support part-time healthcare now!
PT faculty across the state will be testifying before state legislators on April 5th. Please reach out if you are interested in providing testimony: email erussell@elcamino.edu or sign up directly at https://www.cft.org/pt-hearings-april-5. CFT will provide speaker training.
Additionally, CFT recently launched a survey to better understand the healthcare needs of PT faculty. We encourage all current PT faculty to complete this important survey: https://www.cft.org/pt-survey. The survey will take about 15 minutes and the results will provide critical data that will strengthen our advocacy efforts.
1In a 2020 survey, 73% of CFT respondents thought the creation of a healthcare pool was important or very important for part-time faculty. https://www.cft.org/article/cft-launches-campaign-secure-healthcare-part-time-faculty
2You can read more about the campaign here: https://www.cft.org/article/member-action-leads-governor-pledge-200-million-toward-part-time-faculty-healthcare
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https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/rsrc.php/yv/r/B8BxsscfVBr.ico
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Sieh dir auf Facebook Beiträge, Fotos und vieles mehr an.
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https://undersoutherneyes.edpinsent.com/el-camino/
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fi / horror alienation and existentialism – Under Southern Eyes
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2022-05-01T21:27:39+10:00
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https://undersoutherneyes.edpinsent.com/el-camino/
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Fernando Campos and Jaime Jasso, “El Camino” (2020)
A well made and visually gorgeous film, “El Camino” happens to be the culmination of five years of work. In its characters and plot, the film is inspired and influenced by Ridley Scott’s “Alien”, the film that started an entire franchise of sci-fi horror movies and defined Sigourney Weaver’s entire film-acting career. Weary cargo spaceship pilot Rojo (Gustavo Sanchez Parra), beset by problems unknown (though audiences can guess: owing a debt to a criminal space gang perhaps, needing money) and on the way home from previous arduous missions, is offered one more dodgy deal that will clear some of his obligations and allow him to go home with his daughter Robin (Yam Acevedo). He accepts the job and collects a mysterious cargo which is guarded by an armed robot. During the trip Rojo feels unwell and the ship lurches suddenly. Robin guesses that the strange cargo may be affecting Dad’s health in some way and goes down to the hold where the cargo is located to investigate …
The work put into the film’s set designs, the backgrounds and the various special effects is stunning. The vast expanses of space are emphasised, and with them the isolation, loneliness and exhaustion of space cargo operators as they deliver shipments of sometimes dangerous cargoes throughout the length and breadth of the cosmos. One can imagine that pilots compete for shipment contracts that pay peanuts yet demand a great deal physically and psychologically from pilots. No wonder Rojo looks so drained and seems so unwell!
The acting is minimal almost to the point of it being underwhelming but Rojo’s distress and horror when he discovers something dreadful in the cargo hold becomes all the more poignant. He faces losing the one thing he has sacrificed so much for, the daughter who is his one reason for living. He faces having to go home alone with all the pain of being alone and cut off totally from other human beings.
While the plot and the characters seem small compared to the film’s visual design – the characters are a bit one-dimensional without much backstory that would explain why they do the things they do; and viewers can predict that once Rojo accepts the cargo and tells his daughter not to go near it, she will disobey him and suffer the consequences – they do illustrate the film’s themes of the possible hazards of space travel and how their intersection with the demands of an industry (and the ideological paradigms that have shaped that industry and the corporations in it) impact on humans and their families and communities. One has a sense of Rojo and his daughter Robin being pawns of powerful unseen corporate and individual players in the interstellar shipment industry.
The film plays like a pitch to a possible feature film in which further consequences of Rojo’s decision to accept one last job play out on innocent others in Earth’s space colonies.
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https://open.spotify.com/show/2Y779aptgNOwh8ZY2G4DFC
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40 Days and 40 Nights on the Camino de Santiago with Jamie, The Long Distance Coach
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https://i.scdn.co/image/ab6765630000ba8a5b44a61fb12af7a83de90d63
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https://i.scdn.co/image/ab6765630000ba8a5b44a61fb12af7a83de90d63
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Listen to 40 Days and 40 Nights on the Camino de Santiago with Jamie, The Long Distance Coach on Spotify. A personal journal of struggles, miracles and overcoming adversity. The podcast follows my journey through life and my experience of walking the EPIC 500-mile St James' Way and the shorter English Way of the Camino de Santiago.
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https://open.spotify.com/show/2Y779aptgNOwh8ZY2G4DFC
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https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/3701-E-Camino-De-Jaime-Tucson-AZ-85718/8444221_zpid/
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3701 E Camino De Jaime, Tucson, AZ 85718
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3701 E Camino De Jaime, Tucson, AZ 85718 is currently not for sale. The 2,408 Square Feet single family home is a 3 beds, 3 baths property. This home was built in 1998 and last sold on 2022-07-27 for $905,000. View more property details, sales history, and Zestimate data on Zillow.
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Zillow
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https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/3701-E-Camino-De-Jaime-Tucson-AZ-85718/8444221_zpid/
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Get a cash offer in 3 minutes
Find out how much your home could sell for in as little as 3 minutes with a no-obligation cash offer.
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https://www.ula-equipment.com/product/ultra-dragonfly/
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Ultra 30L Dragonfly
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2022-10-05T22:46:33+00:00
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The much anticipated Ultra 30L Dragonfly has landed [30 oz.] and it's UltraFly. Our award-winning Dragonfly just got ultra-strong, so you can kick your weekend...
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en
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ULA Equipment
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https://www.ula-equipment.com/product/ultra-dragonfly/
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REVIEW FOR STANDARD DF SINCE I DON’T SEE THAT LISTED. I’m going to be the odd man out and not give all stars. I’m borderline 2/3 to be honest. I don’t even write reviews but i’m gonna take the time for this one so others know based on how much this bag shows up on da interwebs. I’ll preface my review with this is only used as a daily work bag when home, and my primary travel work pack to carry airplane stuff, 2 laptops and a travel monitor, ipad and cables, and jacket and stuff to my work meetings. I’m satisfied’ish but still torn about whether I should’ve just went with a new larger version of my well known outdoor company ‘PGBH’ bag that i’ve had for years and been pretty happy with. I’m not loving it, but not not liking it enough where i sent it back. I debated it a lot for a couple weeks before using it to travel because without traveling to validate my opinions, i’d never know. So I used it and…My big dislikes FIRST…i very very dislike the side pockets and the poorly designed top elastic band. It fails horribly at holding things in that to me it should. You better hope you fill it up with non slippery stuff or pray you don’t move it and lose it. Design should be updated to basically copy the PGBH bag which tightens that band at the top to help hold things in. Years of use never had the issue w/ my PGBH bag; this bag I traveled twice; not liked that both times. i have to keep checking that my things are still in the side pockets cause that retainer strap just ain’t effective. On the front of the bag though the stretch material is great..but that has a zipper. NEXT gripe is zippers. I’m not liking much, almost at all, how easy the main compartment zipper opens. bothers me a lot for a bag that costs over 200. The zippers should be harder to open on my main compartment. even the brain pocket is harder to open. Another design upgrade to consider; maybe if the zippers were a more water resistant model they’d be harder to open. LAST is the front main compartment flap. i love the inside pockets but would like to see the design have the U shaped compartment zipper be a little more biased toward the outer edges…meaning widen the U zipper a liiiiiiiiitle more and I think the flap would be a little more stable and easier to get compartment things in. That would also give those inside pockets a little wider opening. MAYBE…It’s so light that you could slightly push out dimensions not noticeably sacrificing weight and get the interior a liter or so more space, pushing overall to 26+’ish. OK what saved it from 2 stars…the brain pocket is good, not great. Maybe a little big and could’ve been smaller to give more interior room, but it works well and the pull zip works well. It sits high though and when you’re using the bag flat, if that’s open and you don’t use an organizer you have to watch for things falling out. Maybe design of the top edge could extend a little more to the inside of the brain opening to stop things from falling out. The laptop sleeve is awesome. I can get a MBP 14 and HP 14 in there with little issue and traveling on plane no issues with those on the floor because the bottom has enough padding. Material is good and stitching good. Front pocket is good and shock cord is good. Pockets on inside of U flap good. I’m even cool with the straps even though they’re a little cardboard’y’ish something feeling. With all my stuff and laptops no issue with rubbing/pain/etc., so i’m cool with those. Compression on inside aren’t super effective at holding laptops in place, but do well with compression cubes. Might be more effective to install those top/bottom instead of side/side. That said, it’s US made, they do repairs, it seems very durable but light, has great function for its size, i can attest it does hold a lot for its size, laptop area feels safe, not uncomfortable and sits high and comfy, and overall good bag. If my gripes are of less concern to you, this bag is 5 stars for sure. For me as a work/travel work bag, it checks a lotta boxes more than most at price, but i’m not totally sold on its dual function design. It’s very close though and it’ll be hard for you to find this function, cost, comfort, US made/repaired, weight combo. My honest input to help drive the next design update.
I did a ton of research and tried a ton of packs, and the ULTRA Dragonfly won out. I work between an urban office and an extremely wet, harsh environment, and I wanted something that could handle both. I also wanted a pack that could fit my 16″ MacBook Pro (with a thick protective shell) as well as my 12.5″-wide Peak Design Camera Cube, serve as a personal item on planes, and be comfortable enough for long hikes hauling 25+ pounds. The Dragonfly was the unicorn that did it all–at a super light weight. It also looks great; I got the White Lightning version, which is gorgeous. Though ULA’s official specs suggest the pack shouldn’t fit the items I put in it, it does. Its main compartment is more spacious than packs listed as much larger, as is its external laptop compartment. Some of the comfort depends on your frame. For me, the unique S-shaped straps fit like a glove, making the pack more comfortable than ones with much plusher harnesses. Finally, these packs are crafted by hand in Utah, which means each one is well made and slightly unique, which I appreciate. Oh yeah: ULA customer service is great. I can’t believe they responded quickly and kindly to all my crazy questions, but they did. One big caveat: if you want a pack with tons of internal organization, the Dragonfly might not be for you, as it’s fairly minimalist. But for me, the ULTRA Dragonfly definitely deserves five stars. I hope other folks enjoy it as much as I do.
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https://followthecamino.com/en/blog/the-promised-land-elizabeth-musser/
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en
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with Author Elizabeth Musser
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"Follow the Camino"
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2021-02-09T12:35:49+00:00
|
The Promised Land is a tale of coming together on the Camino. Elizabeth tell us about her personal connection to the Camino and her book.
|
en
|
Follow the Camino
|
https://followthecamino.com/en/blog/the-promised-land-elizabeth-musser/
|
I don’t sleep a wink on the plane, and by the time we land in Paris I feel high on caffeine and exhaustion. And this backpack. It weighs a ton. If Bill had been with me, well, he would have said, “Abbs, you don’t need to pack the kitchen sink, for heaven’s sake,” and he’d start pulling things out.
But Bill is not here, and I have planned this whole trip alone. Fiercely alone.
I take the train to Le Puy-en-Velay, one of the four main starting parts for the pilgrimage in France. It is almost ninety degrees outside. Thank heavens there is air conditioning on the train.
I step off the train, hoist my pack on my back, and pull my small suitcase behind me, in search of a taxi. I stop to take in my surroundings, looking up at the huge rock—more like a very narrow mountain—and gasp. I’ve seen photos spread across the Internet, but there she is, in real life. Or I should say, there they are. Mary and Jesus, way larger than life, perched high on a rock that dominates the city.
She’s called Notre Dame de France, and Wikipedia tells me that she was erected in 1860, standing in her glory way up there on a volcanic spur 130 meters high. The red statue was created and cast from the bronze metal recovered from 213 cannons captured from the Russians during the Crimean War. Leave it to the French to make the Virgin Mary from cannons! She’s huge—22 meters high—and weighs a ton. No, make that 835 tons. And she’s holding Baby Jesus in her right arm…
…The sight is breathtaking, and beautiful, in a way I cannot even try to explain. I stare at them and think Okay, well maybe this is a good place to start a pilgrimage.
I’m staying in a tiny studio on a cobbled road in the old part of town. The room is way up on the third floor. No elevators, of course. I drag my backpack and suitcase up the narrow, winding, very old cement staircase, which has a vague aroma of cat urine.
The studio seemed like the perfect location, but there is one hiccup. The French have this Camino thing working like a well-oiled machine. A minivan from a company called La Malle Postale will pick up my suitcase tomorrow morning and take it to the next place I’m staying, fifteen kilometers further down the trail. Of course, many pilgrims only carry a backpack for their long journey, but I have not signed up for torture, and evidently lots of other people feel the same way. But it was only after I’d paid for my lodging on Airbnb that I discovered one minor inconvenience: La Malle Postale does not pick up bags from Airbnbs, but only from hotels and hostels specifically registered as part of the Camino.
I groan, thinking of the early morning run I’ll have to make across town tomorrow morning to deposit the suitcase at the acceptable spot, and let the backpack slip from my shoulders onto the wooden floor. I need a cup of tea. A strong cup of tea. It is two in the afternoon in France, and I’ve been up for twenty-four hours straight….
…It’s only three p.m. Instead of going back to the train station, I’m free to walk around the old part of town, take photos, and admire the statue of Mary and Jesus from every angle. Then I decide to walk to the cathedral, an immense structure built over the period of some ten centuries, the fifth to the fifteenth, so I’ve read. That’s old.
The short hike from my studio to the cathedral goes up and up and up a sharp incline. I walk along the cobblestones, noting a few cozy restaurants and tourist shops lining the narrow road. The cathedral’s façade, striped looking with alternating white and black stones, is imposing, almost intimidating, towering over me with its three massive levels of stonework. The bottom layer—my destination—is the cathedral’s porch with its arched arcades. I stand, already out of breath, at the bottom of the sixty steps.
Good grief, we pilgrims will be worn out before we ever start our journey if we have to climb up here with our backpacks!
But for today I’m unencumbered, so I walk up and up and up all those steps. It’s worth the view from the top, though, as I turn around and look past the alcove and the vaulted openings to the whole valley below.
I enter the church, dark, majestic, and very gothic, demanding reverence. I stand there for a few minutes, letting my eyes adjust. Then I look up and ahead of me at the painted cupola with its black virgin. I feel chills. An elderly couple enter, genuflect, and cross themselves, Catholic style. After a few minutes of silent contemplation, during which I am still hearing too much noise in my mind, I pass through the cathedral bookstore, where I have read all pilgrims must go to get their “passport.” It’s called a créanciale, and is a folded booklet that pilgrims get stamped at each place they stay. A proof of their pilgrimage, I guess. The suggested donation is five euros. I get one for Bobby, Rasa, and Caroline too, and leave the enthusiastic cashier thirty euros.
“Merci, Monsieur.”
He rewards me by answering in French. “Je vous en prie, Madame.” Then he adds, in English, “Do you know about the welcome meeting later today?”
In fact, I do. I’ve saved a thread from a Camino forum on my phone that talks about this as well as the early morning Mass: There is a friendly group of Friends of the Camino in Le Puy who welcome new pilgrims. They meet every evening between April and October starting at 5:30 p.m. at 2 Rue de Manécantare.
Every day at 7 a.m. there is a Mass in the Cathedral with the Pilgrim’s Blessing at the end. It is rather nice to start your Camino experience leaving from the Cathedral with the other pilgrims, through the old streets.
For now, I leave the cathedral alone and wander around town, up and down, up and down. I could walk up to the top of the Corneille Rock, where the view is surely amazing, but I decide to save my strength for the start of the hike tomorrow.
Late in the afternoon, as the sun is descending, gleaming off of Mary as if she’s on fire, I make my way behind the massive cathedral to the little street, rue de Manécantare, where I find a door marked Camino and Acceuil. Welcome. I step inside the room and find a group of pilgrims seated around a table on which sit little glasses and a pitcher filled with what an American would assume is weak Kool-Aid. Not at all. It’s a kir—white wine with crème de cassis added. The French! Welcoming pilgrims from around the world with a glass of wine!
I pass on the kir and settle into a chair while the group leader, a fiftysomething man named Laurent, launches into an animated discussion of all the wonders of the Camino, alternating between French and English as he talks. He doesn’t mention anything religious exactly, although he admits this pilgrimage can be “very spiritual.” He’s walked all 1200 kilometers from right here in Le Puy to the end of the Camino on the furthest western piece of land in Spain. According to Laurent, the place, Finisterre, literally means the end of the world.
Twenty of us are present: ten Germans, two young men from Italy, a father-son team who are French, a young Polish man, and four American women who look to be about my age.
We go around the room, sharing where we’re from and how far we hope to walk.
The young man has already been walking for two months, from his home in Poland, and he’s going to walk two more months at least until he gets to Finisterre. Alone.
The women are from Washington State. They are planning to walk the Via Podiensis, the part of the pilgrimage starting in Le Puy and ending at a picturesque village called Conques, two hundred kilometers further south in France. It’s the same path that Bobby and Rasa and I are planning to take. And Caroline, I remind myself. Maybe. I’ve calculated the length as 125 miles.
When it’s my turn to share, I say, “Hi, I’m Abbie. I’m from Atlanta, Georgia, in the southeast of the United States. I’m walking with my son and his friend, but I just heard today that his friend is sick, so they aren’t joining me until I get to Monistrol.” I give a nervous laugh. “So I guess I’ll be alone for these first few days.”
Laurent leans over from where he’s sitting, eyes dancing. “Abbie,” he says, and his accent is strong and clear. “This is what is so beautiful about the Camino. You are never alone.”
I think he may launch into something about God being with us, but instead he says, “You will find many, many friends on the Camino. I guarantee it.”
As we leave the welcome center, one of the women comes over to me. “Hi, I’m Jamie. That’s a bummer about your son’s friend.”
“Well, it’s a disappointment, for sure. And especially for them. But”—and I turn up my palms—“Laurent says I won’t be alone. That’s good to know.”
She chuckles. “Indeed.” Then, “Abbie, would you like to join us for dinner?”
“Oh, no. I don’t want to bother you all.”
“No bother! We’re all pilgrims, right?”
“Well then, sure! Thanks!”
These women, Jamie, Brenda, Barbara, and Lynn, each give me a big smile and a welcome. Then Lynn adds, “Let’s go ring the bell for good luck on our pilgrimage!”
We head out into a garden that adjoins the building, where I immediately spy the large bell that I’ve read about on the forum. Each of us rings it, recording the photo on our smart phones. I take a deep breath and say a silent prayer, “Thank You, Lord, for these women. I really didn’t look forward to being alone tonight.”
…
The evening is progressing well. Bobby has texted to make sure I’m okay. By the time we leave the restaurant, it is after nine and I am wiped out.
“Will we see you at Mass tomorrow morning, Abbie?” Jamie calls after me.
“Yes, of course. I’ll be there bright and early.”
“Why don’t you come back afterwards and have breakfast with us at our hotel—it’s delicious. Homemade jellies, cheeses from the region, yogurts, and of course, French bread. And fresh fruits. I’ve already checked with the host, and he says it’s fine. We need to start out with a big breakfast if we’re going to make it.”
“Thanks, girls. You’ve been so kind. I’d love to join you tomorrow morning.”
As I head to my little studio, I can almost hear Laurent whispering, “You’re never alone on the Camino, Abbie.” I guess he’s right.
|
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17422
|
yago
|
0
| 35
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https://en.caminodelcid.org/cid-history-legend/times-cid/iberian-peninsula-spain-portug/
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en
|
Iberian Peninsula, Spain and Portugal
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"Middle Ages Spanish History. An approach to the times of El Cid: the Iberian Peninsula",
"Spain and Portugal. Al-Andalus and The Christian kingdoms."
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Middle Ages Spanish History. An approach to the times of El Cid: the Iberian Peninsula, Spain and Portugal. Al-Andalus and the Christian kingdoms.
|
en
| null |
The times of El Cid. The Iberian Peninsula. Spain and Portugal. The 9th century
Al-Andalus
The Omeyan emirate Al-Andalus had been independent from the Abbasid caliphate since 756. Following an initial period of relative peace (given that the struggle against the Christians had never stopped and no-one had ever imagined that the conflict would last for so long and have such enormous proportions), a series of sanguinary revolts broke out during the reign of al-Hakam I, promoted by the Alfaquis who had ruled in the same manner as his predecessor, the emir Hisham I, whose power al-Hakam now questioned.
All manner of uprisings took place during the century, such as those of the Muladis and Mozarabs in Bobastro which caused great instability in the emirate, along with the constant threats of its external enemies, mainly the Christians, who were launching attacks on the frontier of Córdoba from the north of the peninsula, and the Franks and Normans. All the above led to the crisis and fragmentation of the emirate, and this process reached its apogee during the reign of Abd-Allah (888-912). Obviously, the Christians obtained maximum benefit from this unstable situation and won many important victories during this century.
The Christian kingdoms
The Christians effectively took advantage of the problems of their opponents and their constant crises, and this, combined with the increasingly important military power they were amassing, led them to undertake a series of military campaigns that gave rise to a considerable increase in the extension of the Christian domains in the peninsula: Ordoño I (850-866) took advantage of the uprisings in the emirate to launch a powerful campaign and achieved an important victory in Guadalete, in addition to invading León, Astorga, Tuy and Amaya, and other important victories such as the one launched by Count Rodrigo on Talamanca.
Even so, the Christians also suffered great disasters such as the battle waged on the plain of Miranda (865), in which Count Rodrigo, who had previously defeated the Muslims in Talamanca, met his death. During his reign and that of his son Alfonso III, an important repopulation process took place in the Duero valley, through the “presura” system (i.e., all lands without an owner were annexed to the kingdom, which in turn, distributed them as it thought fit.
Alfonso III (866-910) fought the Muslims during a campaign in which the Moors marched towards Galicia and León with an enormous contingent. During his reign, the northern part of Portugal and Porto were taken by the Christians, and the Asturian Count Hermenegildo took Coimbra in the name of King Alfonso. The monarch even succeeded in establishing the frontier near the river Montego and eventually signed a peace treaty with Córdoba which lasted for three years.
The 10th century. The Iberian Peninsula, Spain and Portugal
Al-Andalus
In 929 the brilliant ruler Abd al-Rahman III established the caliphate of Córdoba, during which time Al-Andalus experienced its moment of maximum splendour. Using his military and diplomatic expertise, Abd al-Rahman III was able to readdress the situation by defeating the rebels and halting the enemy, in addition to maintaining the trans-Saharan routes, which were the channels used to transport large quantities of gold to Córdoba, and by fighting the Christians from the north.
The rise to power of Hisham II (976) would, perhaps, not have been so important in history if it were not for the fact that it was not the caliph who was exercising the power, but Almanzor, who was the real ruler of the caliphate, and re-launched the war. In 985 he sacked Barcelona and Santiago de Compostela, leading the military campaigns and destroying the city and its inhabitants in 997. There is no doubt that his death in 1002 was a great relief to the Christians, as he had been a real nightmare for them.
The Christian kingdoms
Alfonso III shared his kingdom between his sons, in the following way: García, his eldest son, was assigned Foramontana and the title of emperor; Ordoño received Galicia and Fruela was given Asturias. As had already occurred on other occasions (and this would not be the last as demonstrated by the sons of Fernando I during the 11th century), this decision did not please everyone, and García plotted against his father.
Alfonso III managed to lock him up in prison, but Munio Fernández, García’s father-in-law, helped him escape. García started a rebellion that forced the king to abdicate and go into exile, but he asked his son to grant him permission to wage a campaign against the Moors. After granting him permission, Alfonso undertook a brilliant campaign that enabled him to defeat the Muslims for the last time. After the campaign, he returned to Zamora, where shortly after his arrival, he passed away.
Following the death of Alfonso III of León, fortune no longer smiled on García the usurper, who died just four years later, childless. Ordoño II (914-924), who had helped García and been given the kingdom of Galicia, took over the throne. As soon as he came to power, the new monarch established the capital in León. He continued to fight the Muslims and was defeated in Mudonia, Guadalajara, Alcolea and Valdejunquera.
From that time on, he organised a series of campaigns that allowed him to enter Andalusi territory. Upon his death, new problems in succession arose, that would continue to be in evidence during the rest of the century. Fruela took over the kingdom, and on his death the following year, the kingdom was divided up between his sons Sancho and Alfonso. Sancho died and Alfonso (now Alfonso IV) took over the throne. However, he abdicated in 931, and Ramiro II (931-951) took control. One year later Alfonso decided to take back the throne, but Ramiro II found out about it, took him prisoner and blinded him.
King Ramiro II was able to extend the frontier to the river Tormes. Upon the death of Ramiro II, who was succeeded by Sancho I (956-958). On being defeated by the Moors, the king was deposed by the noble class, led by Fernán González -Count of Castille- and Ordoño IV the Wicked came to the throne (958-960). His brief reign is proof of his disastrous rule. However, during those two years, Sancho I had not been idle and was able to return to power thanks to his alliances with Abd al-Rahman III and the kingdom of Navarre, thus commencing his second reign (960-966). This time, he was supported by the noble class who stood on his side.
Sancho I died after being poisoned, and his son Ramiro III (966-984) took over. Following the defeats of Gormaz and Rueda, he was deposed, and his brother, the usurper Vermudo II (985-999) came to power, after plotting with several members of the noble class, including Gonzalo Núñez, who had murdered Sancho I. He confronted Ramiro III who, in turn, forged an alliance with Almanzor. Unfortunately, the death of the rightful monarch in 985 paved the way for Vermudo II and his disastrous rule.
Following the death of Ramiro III, the power had passed to his mother, the regent Teresa Ansúrez, but Vermudo had managed to forge a new alliance, this time with Almanzor, to rule over the whole of León. After forcing the regent to withdraw to the monastery of San Pelayo (Oviedo), the usurper tried to expel the Moors, who took their vengeance by attacking Coimbra (987), Zamora and León (988).
Vermudo II gave up his daughter to Almanzor in an attempt to repair their relationship, and apparently succeeded, but once again, he believed himself capable of defeating the legendary Muslim, and again broke off relations with him. As a result, the Muslims again attacked Zamora, León and Astorga. The king fled to Galicia while Almanzor sacked Santiago (10 August 997).
The 11th century. The Iberian Peninsula, Spain and Portugal
As occurred in Europe, where the 11th century was a truly agitated period, during this century, Spain, too, suffered great changes, especially in terms of military aspects.
Al-Andalus
The 11th century bore witness to three radical changes in the structure of al-Andalus. Firstly, the caliphate eventually collapsed (1031) and the Andalusi territory was divided into many small factions where chieftains fought each other, moved by their lust for power. These ambitions were taken advantage of by the Christians. In fact the power of the Christians was of enormous interest to the Muslims and so the chieftains paid large sums of money in peerages (taxes) to the great Christian lords, who in return, offered them protection against their enemies.
The small factions were much weaker than the former caliphate and this made is easy for the Christians to advance towards the south. However, at the end of the century, the Christian drive forced the factions of Seville, Badajoz and Granada to ask for help from the Almoravids.
The situation was about to change with the arrival of the Almoravids, who not only inflicted terrible defeats on the Christians but also became the enemies of their own coreligionists and annexed the factions. In this way, in less than one century, al-Andalus changed from being a united caliphate to a group of small factions and was again reunited, this time, with the arrival of a fierce adversary for the Christians.
The Christian kingdoms
Upon the death of Vermudo II he was succeeded by Alfonso V, who rebuilt León, gave it its code of laws and recovered the lost positions to the south of the river Duero. He married Urraca, sister of Sancho III of Pamplona, and Queen Regent (Vermudo III was not of age) for the purpose of solving the problems between Navarre and León. The king died during the siege of Viseo (1028).
At this point, a new site began to take on great importance: Pamplona. As already mentioned above, Sancho III the Great had wed his sister Urraca to Alfonso, and he in turn had married Mayor de Castilla, daughter of Count García Sánchez. This led him to control the fate of Castile on the death of his father-in-law (in May 1029). The king won back León (in January 1034, after which he received the title of emperor) and on his death he shared out his kingdoms among García, Ramiro and Gonzalo. His second son, Fernando, who had been given most of Castile, was eventually responsible for uniting all the kingdoms.
Fernando, in fact, fought his brothers and was crowned Fernando I of Castile and León. His reign was extremely positive for the Christians, as he won back many sites, including Viseo, San Esteban de Gormaz or the historic taking of Coimbra (legend has it that this was possible thanks to the intervention of St. James the apostle) and defeated Vermudo III during the battle of Tamarón (1 September 1037), and he also forced his rule on several chieftains and forced them to pay him peerages.
Before the death of King Fernando, he divided his kingdom among his children Sancho (Castile and the peerages of Saragossa), Alfonso (León and the peerages of Toledo), García (Galicia and the reconquered area of Portugal, in addition to the peerages of Seville and Badajoz), and Urraca was given Zamora and Elvira, Toro. The two daughters also inherited power over all the monasteries in the kingdom on the condition that they never married. This division was not at all to the liking of Sancho, and so, on his father’s death, taking advantage of the fact that García had attacked Urraca, he used that event as an excuse to start a war against his siblings.
Consequently, García was the first to lose his possessions, whereas in the case of Alfonso, the battle of Llantada (1068) was a warning of what was about to happen. Sancho's victory was a crushing blow, in addition to that of Golpejera (1072), which was decisive and forced Alfonso to flee to the court of the chieftain of Toled, as an exile.
Only Zamora opposed resistance to Sancho. Despite the siege and the attacks, the people of Zamora put up a brave fight, but it was clear that sooner or later, the city would succumb. This would have happened had it not been for Vellido Dolfos, who, disguising himself as a deserter on the Zamoran front, deceived King Sancho by saying that he knew of a hidden passageway leading to Zamora. The king, who believed him, followed him to the place where Dolfos was to show him the entrance. But the only thing the monarch found was his death, by the hand of Dolfos.
According with the tradition , el Cid (Sancho’s right-hand man) played an important part in this event, as he realised that the king was missing and, on seeing the traitor escape and fearing the worst, left in hot pursuit of the murders, who was fortunate enough to find shelter in Zamora and escaped from El Cid. Although it was not known for certain, the people suspected that the dauphine Urraca was aware of the plot and asked Dolfos to murder the king, and this legend still exists to this day.
In this situation, without Sancho, with García in prison, and with the fervent support of Urraca, in addition to there being a kingdom that needed a king, Alfonso returned from exile and became lord of the kingdoms that his own father has shared out, which were once again unified. The monarch Alfonso VI, who is not described in a negative way in the Song of el Cid, was also a great king and warrior and, despite defeats such as that of Sagrajas (1086), it cannot be denied that he played an important part in driving back the Muslims. Indeed, it was he who recovered Toledo, reconverting the city into the capital it was once been in the times of the Visigoths.
The 12th century. The Iberian Peninsula, Spain and Portugal
Al-Andalus
The Almoravid empire gradually extended further and further, eliminating smaller factions and finally, the Almoravids invaded Valencia 1102 (which was governed by Jimena following the death of El Cid). In 1110 the Almoravids conquered what had until then been the bastions of Saragossa and Lisbon.
However, in the middle of the 12th century the Almohads took over from the Almoravids, and conquered Seville (1147), occupying Andalusia and recovering Almería (1157), following which they once again succeeded in unifying Al-Andalus in 1172.
The Christian kingdoms
During the life of the king, his daughter married Count Raymond of Burgundy (the «Don Remont» quoted in “el Cantar de Mio Cid” who frequented the court of Toledo), and he fathered the future emperor Alfonso VII. Upon the death of Alfonso VI (1109), Urraca, who was a widow, remarried, her husband being Alfonso I the Battler, which led to a terrible civil war. The royal couple's marriage was annulled in 1114, following which relations were severed between Aragón and Castile. The death of Urraca in 1126 brought a lasting peace, but also led to the changing of the borders, in favour of Navarre (1127) and the independence of the Portuguese kingdom. The throne was in dispute by Alfonso I and Alfonso VII, who eventually came to power through the peace treaty of Tamara (1127). The treaty of Tudellén was signed during the reign of the Emperor with Ramón Berenguer IV. It established the areas that had been won back from the Muslims and awarded the eastern coastal strip as far as Murcia to Aragón, and the rest of the peninsula to Castile and León.
During the reign of the emperor Alfonso VII, many conquests took place and all the kingdoms in the peninsula were placed under his rule (except Portugal), in addition to many possessions in the south of France. His victories included the taking of Almería (1147), which shows the extent to which the territory of al-Andalus had been won back by the Christians. The Almohads recovered the site in 1157 and Alfonso VII was unable to regain it, and died that same year. On his death, the kingdom was divided up again, with Fernando II ruling León and Sancho III Castile, after whose brief reign (1157-1158) he was succeeded by his son Alfonso VIII.
As opposed to what occurred with his father, Alfonso VIII ruled for many years (1158-1214), during which time he had the opportunity to fight the Almohads on different occasions, and to establish pacts with them when necessary. However, the Christians apparently only respected the treaties when it suited them, as they continued to attack Al-Andalus. After the reconquest of Cuenca in 1177 with the allied support of Aragón, the treaty of Cazorla was signed (1179), by which the lines of expansion of the reconquest were re-defined, and Murcia was also given to Castile. However, if there was one thing that Alfonso VIII was famous for, it was a crucial event that took place during the second century.
The 13th century. The Iberian Peninsula, Spain and Portugal
During this century, the advance of the Christians reached its apogee: on 16 July 1212, the troops of Alfonso VIII of Castile, together with Sancho VII of Navarre and Pedro II the Catholic of Aragón, confronted the fearsome Almohad army in the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa.
The victory of the Christians was a milestone in history, and symbolised the beginning of the end of Al-Andalus, which was again split up into small factions, and the Almodah army was destroyed. All this gave wings to the Christians.
Furthermore, Fernando III was crowned king of León in 1230 (this kingdom was under the rule of Alfonso IX following the death of his father Fernando II in 1188), and so the armies from Castile and León constituted a fearsome enemy, to the point that only the kingdom of Granada remained to be conquered. On finally reaching the frontier between the kingdom of Aragón and that of Castile and León (the force of Jaime I had enabled him to dominate the whole of the eastern seaboard), a new pact was signed, that of Almizra, which ratified that of Cazorla.
Following the rule of Fernando III, his son, Alfonso X, made history due to his incredible cultural achievements, which outweighed his military success (for instance, the conquests of Jerez or Cádiz). Alfonso X allowed the kingdom of Granada to oppose resistance, although not out of cultural interest but his concern for resolving internal affairs.
He was succeeded by Sancho IV, who disputed the throne with the dauphins of Cerda (the nephews and legitimate heirs of Fernando de la Cerda, elder brother of Sancho, who died without ascending to the throne). He signed a pact with France and Aragón whereby power was retained by him and his descendants. However, his relations with Aragón were not particularly good, and this kingdom defeated Castile in Pajarón (1290). Not even the wedding of Jaime II of Aragón with Isabel, the eldest daughter of Sancho, was able to prevent various confrontations.
The heir of King Sancho IV was his son, Fernando IV, who failed in his attempt to win back Granada at the beginning of the 14th century. Granada continued to resist until the coming of the Catholic Kings, but the end of the Reconquest was only a matter of time.
The Crown of Aragón: Jaime I
In the 13th century, the Crown of Aragón reached its period of maximum splendour. Until then, its policy had mainly been devoted to political affairs in the regions of Catalonia and its neighbours in Castile and León and France, but its expansion had not been as important as that of Castile and León, despite their being allies in different campaigns over the centuries (e.g., in the attack on Almería in 1147 or the battle of Navas de Tolosa).
However, things were about to change following the death of Pedro II the Catholic in the battle of Muret (1213) when his son, Jaime I, ascended to the throne. His rule lasted from 1213 to 1276. Due to the fact that he was under age (he was born in 1208 in Montpellier), problems arose during the first part of his reign. But after halting the revolts of the nobles in Aragón (1227), he followed the example of Castile and León and concentrated on the reconquest.
There is no doubt that the greatest of the monarchs of the Crown of Aragón certainly caused an impression on his fellow men, due to his red hair and enormous stature, which he had inherited from his father. Both his appearance (which no doubt made anyone he met consider him a superior being) and his great political and military genius enabled him to advance inexorably along the eastern seaboard and Balearic Isles: in 1232 he conquered Majorca and then Ibiza in 1235.
The campaign in Valencia was an example of how the different towns and cities fell into his hands, one by one, culminating in the most important of all his conquests, Valencia, which he entered on 22 August 1238. He got as far as Alicante and helped Alfonso X to control the uprisings in Murcia, by invading the city and handing it over to Castile, as was established in the pacts of Cazorlan and Almizra, with respect to sharing out the conquered areas.
In addition to all this we should add his flair for diplomacy and campaigns he waged in the Mediterranean, which opened up great trading and military prospects for the Crown of Aragón in the maritime aspect (the fearsome and legendary Almogavars acted for the first time under his rule). He most certainly deserved his assumed name, «the Conqueror» by which he is known in history.
Portugal
As can be seen, the history of Portugal during the Middle Ages is to a large extent similar to that of Castile and León, both regarding the reconquests by the monarchs of those kingdoms, and due to the aggression inflicted by the Muslims, not so much on Portugal but rather on León, of which Portugal had formed a part for many years. At the beginning of the 11th century, Alfonso VI gave Portugal to Henry of Burgundy. At that time Portugal was merely a county, but the French nobleman, who frequented the court of Toledo according to “el Cantar de Mio Cid”, declared it independent following the death of the monarch at the beginning of the 12th century. During the next two centuries, Portugal expanded towards the south, undertook its own reconquest and acquired its own laws, governmental structures and characteristics.
Author: Alfonso Boix Jovaní
Rev. ALC: 10.10.18
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Strangers No Longer: Together on the Journey of Hope
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Issued by USCCB, January 22, 2003 Copyright © 2003, United States Conference of Catholic Bishops, Inc. and Conferencia del Episcopado Mexicano. All rights r...
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https://www.usccb.org/issues-and-action/human-life-and-dignity/immigration/strangers-no-longer-together-on-the-journey-of-hope
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Issued by USCCB, January 22, 2003
Copyright © 2003, United States Conference of Catholic Bishops, Inc. and Conferencia del Episcopado Mexicano. All rights reserved.
A Pastoral Letter Concerning Migration from the Catholic Bishops of Mexico and the United States
Introduction
1. As we begin the third millennium, we give thanks to God the Father for the many blessings of creation, and to our Lord Jesus Christ for the gift of salvation. We raise our prayer to the Holy Spirit to strengthen and guide us in carrying out all that the Lord has commanded us. In discerning the signs of the times, we note the greatly increased migration among the peoples of the Americas, and we see in this but one manifestation of a worldwide phenomenon–often called globalization–which brings with it great promises along with multiple challenges.
2. We speak as two episcopal conferences but as one Church, united in the view that migration between our two nations is necessary and beneficial. At the same time, some aspects of the migrant experience are far from the vision of the Kingdom of God that Jesus proclaimed: many persons who seek to migrate are suffering, and, in some cases, tragically dying; human rights are abused; families are kept apart; and racist and xenophobic attitudes remain.
3. On January 23, 1999, at the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, Pope John Paul II presented his apostolic exhortation Ecclesia in America, which resulted from the Synod of Bishops of America. 1 In the spirit of ecclesial solidarity begun in that synod and promoted in Ecclesia in America, and aware of the migration reality our two nations live, we the bishops of Mexico and the United States seek to awaken our peoples to the mysterious presence of the crucified and risen Lord in the person of the migrant and to renew in them the values of the Kingdom of God that he proclaimed.
4. As pastors to more than ninety million Mexican Catholics and sixty-five million U.S. Catholics, we witness the human consequences of migration in the life of society every day. We witness the vulnerability of our people involved in all sides of the migration phenomenon, including families devastated by the loss of loved ones who have undertaken the migration journey and children left alone when parents are removed from them. We observe the struggles of landowners and enforcement personnel who seek to preserve the common good without violating the dignity of the migrant. And we share in the concern of religious and social service providers who, without violating civil law, attempt to respond to the migrant knocking at the door.
5. Migrants and immigrants are in our parishes and in our communities. In both our countries, we see much injustice and violence against them and much suffering and despair among them because civil and church structures are still inadequate to accommodate their basic needs.
6. We judge ourselves as a community of faith by the way we treat the most vulnerable among us. The treatment of migrants challenges the consciences of elected officials, policymakers, enforcement officers, residents of border communities, and providers of legal aid and social services, many of whom share our Catholic faith.
7. In preparing this statement we have spoken with migrants, public officials, enforcement officers, social justice activists, pastors, parishioners, and community leaders in both the United States and Mexico as part of a process that lasted two years. Our dialogue has revealed a common desire for a more orderly system that accommodates the reality of migration and promotes just application of civil law. We seek to measure the interests of all parties in the migration phenomenon against the guidelines of Catholic social teaching and to offer a moral framework for embracing, not rejecting, the reality of migration between our two nations. We invite Catholics and persons of good will in both nations to exercise their faith and to use their resources and gifts to truly welcome the stranger among us (cf. Mt 25:35).
8. In recent years, signs of hope have developed in the migration phenomenon in both Mexico and the United States: a growing consciousness of migrants as bearers of faith and culture; an outpouring of hospitality and social services, including migrant shelters; a growing network of advocates for migrants' and immigrants' rights; a more organized effort at welcome and intercultural communion; a greater development of a social conscience; and greater recognition by both governments of the importance of the issue of migration. Each of our episcopal conferences has spoken with great urgency to encourage these signs of hope. 2 We reiterate our appreciation for and our encouragement of manifestations of commitment to solidarity according to the vision inspired by Ecclesia in America (EA).
9. We speak to the migrants who are forced to leave their lands to provide for their families or to escape persecution. We stand in solidarity with you. We commit ourselves to your pastoral care and to work toward changes in church and societal structures that impede your exercising your dignity and living as children of God.
10. We speak to public officials in both nations, from those who hold the highest offices to those who encounter the migrant on a daily basis. We thank our nations' presidents for the dialogue they have begun in an effort to humanize the migration phenomenon.
11. We speak to government personnel of both countries who enforce, implement, and execute the immigration laws.
12. Finally, we speak to the peoples of the United States and Mexico. Our two nations are more interdependent than ever before in our history, sharing cultural and social values, common interests, and hopes for the future. Our nations have a singular opportunity to act as true neighbors and to work together to build a more just and generous immigration system.
Chapter I
America: A Common History of Migration and a Shared faith in Jesus Christ
13. America is a continent born of immigrant peoples who came to inhabit these lands and who from north to south gave birth to new civilizations. Throughout history the continent has suffered through the expansion of other peoples who came to conquer and colonize these lands, displacing and eliminating entire peoples and even forcing unknown millions of persons and families from Africa to come as slaves.
14. It was precisely within the historical processes of forced and voluntary movements that faith in Christ entered into these lands and extended all over the continent. Faith in Christ has thus "shaped [ou religious profile, marked by moral values which, though they are not always consistently practiced and at times are cast into doubt, are in a sense the heritage of all Americans, even of those who do not explicitly recognize this fact" (EA, no. 14).
15. Our continent has consistently received immigrants, refugees, exiles, and the persecuted from other lands. Fleeing injustice and oppression and seeking liberty and the opportunity to achieve a full life, many have found work, homes, security, liberty, and growth for themselves and their families. Our countries share this immigrant experience, though with different expressions and to different degrees.
16. Since its origins, the Mexican nation has had a history marked by encounters between peoples who, coming from different lands, have transformed and enriched it. It was the encounter between Spaniards and indigenous people that gave rise to the Mexican nation in a birth that was full of the pain and joy that the struggle for life entails. Besides this, immigrants from all continents have participated in the birth of Mexico; they continue to do so now and will for years to come. Mexico is not only a country of emigrants, but also a country of immigrants who come to build their lives anew. It is important to remember the difficult experiences many of our brothers and sisters have of being strangers in a new land and to welcome those who come to be among us.
17. Since its founding, the United States has received immigrants from around the world who have found opportunity and safe haven in a new land. The labor, values, and beliefs of immigrants from throughout the world have transformed the United States from a loose group of colonies into one of the leading democracies in the world today. From its founding to the present, the United States remains a nation of immigrants grounded in the firm belief that newcomers offer new energy, hope, and cultural diversity.
18. At the present time, the interdependence and integration of our two peoples is clear. According to U.S. government statistics, about 800,000 Mexicans enter the United States each day. 3 Cross-border U.S. and Mexican investment has reached unprecedented levels in recent years. Moreover, each year the United States admits between 150,000 to 200,000 Mexicans into the country as legal permanent residents, amounting to nearly 20 percent of the total number of legal permanent residents admitted each year. 4 A significant number of U.S. citizens live, work, and retire in Mexico. In addition to this present interdependence, Mexico and the United States have been bound historically by spiritual connections.
19. Our common faith in Jesus Christ moves us to search for ways that favor a spirit of solidarity. It is a faith that transcends borders and bids us to overcome all forms of discrimination and violence so that we may build relationships that are just and loving.
20. Under the light of the apparition of Our Lady of Guadalupe to the littlest of her children, who were as powerless as most migrants are today, our continent's past and present receive new meaning. It was St. Juan Diego whom our Mother asked to build a temple so in it she could show her love, compassion, aid, and defense to all her children, especially the least among them. 5 Since then, in her Basilica and beyond its walls, she has brought all the peoples of America to celebrate at the table of the Lord, where all his children may partake of and enjoy the unity of the continent in the diversity of its peoples, languages, and cultures (EA, no. 11).
21. As Pope John Paul II wrote in Ecclesia in America:
In its history, America has experienced many immigrations, as waves of men and women came to its various regions in the hope of a better future. The phenomenon continues even today, especially with many people and families from Latin American countries who have moved to the northern parts of the continent, to the point where in some cases they constitute a substantial part of the population. They often bring with them a cultural and religious heritage which is rich in Christian elements. The Church is well aware of the problems created by this situation and is committed to spare no effort in developing her own pastoral strategy among these immigrant people, in order to help them settle in their new land and to foster a welcoming attitude among the local population, in the belief that a mutual openness will bring enrichment to all. (EA, no. 65)
Chapter II
Reflections in the Light of the Word of God and Catholic Social Teaching
Migration in the Light of the Word of God
22. The word of God and the Catholic social teaching it inspires illuminate an understanding–one that is ultimately full of hope–that recognizes the lights and shadows that are a part of the ethical, social, political, economic, and cultural dimensions of migrations between our two countries. The word of God and Catholic social teaching also bring to light the causes that give rise to migrations, as well as the consequences that they have on the communities of origin and destination.
23. These lights and shadows are seen in faith as part of the dynamics of creation and grace on the one hand, and of sin and death on the other, that form the backdrop of all salvation history.
Old Testament
24. Even in the harsh stories of migration, God is present, revealing himself. Abraham stepped out in faith to respond to God's call (Gn 12:1). He and Sarah extended bounteous hospitality to three strangers who were actually a manifestation of the Lord, and this became a paradigm for the response to strangers of Abraham's descendants. The grace of God even broke through situations of sin in the forced migration of the children of Jacob: Joseph, sold into slavery, eventually became the savior of his family (Gn 37:45)–a type of Jesus, who, betrayed by a friend for thirty pieces of silver, saves the human family.
25. The key events in the history of the Chosen People of enslavement by the Egyptians and of liberation by God led to commandments regarding strangers (Ex 23:9; Lv 19:33). Israel's conduct with the stranger is both an imitation of God and the primary, specific Old Testament manifestation of the great commandment to love one's neighbor: "For the Lord, your God, is the . . . Lord of lords, the great God, mighty and awesome, who has no favorites, accepts no bribes, who executes justice for the orphan and widow, and befriends the alien, feeding and clothing him. So you, too, must befriend the alien, for you were once aliens yourselves in the land of Egypt" (Dt 10:17-19). For the Israelites, these injunctions were not only personal exhortations: the welcome and care of the alien were structured into their gleaning and tithing laws (Lv 19:9-10; Dt 14:28-29).
New Testament
26. Recalling the migration of the Chosen People from Egypt, Jesus, Mary, and Joseph themselves were refugees in Egypt: "Out of Egypt I called my son" (Mt 2:15). From this account the Holy Family has become a figure with whom Christian migrants and refugees throughout the ages can identify, giving them hope and courage in hard times.
St. Matthew also describes the mysterious presence of Jesus in the migrants who frequently lack food and drink and are detained in prison (Mt 25:35-36). The "Son of Man" who "comes in his glory" (Mt 25:31) will judge his followers by the way they respond to those in such need: "Amen, I say to you, whatever you did for one of these least brothers of mine, you did for me" (Mt 25:40).
27. The Risen Christ commanded his apostles to go to all nations to preach his message and to draw all people through faith and baptism into the life of God the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit (Mt 28:16-20). The Risen Christ sealed this command through the sending of the Holy Spirit (Acts 2:1-21). The triumph of grace in the Resurrection of Christ plants hope in the hearts of all believers, and the Spirit works in the Church to unite all peoples of all races and cultures into the one family of God (Eph 2:17-20).
The Holy Spirit has been present throughout the history of the Church to work against injustice, division, and oppression and to bring about respect for individual human rights, unity of races and cultures, and the incorporation of the marginalized into full life in the Church. In modern times, one of the ways this work of the Spirit has been manifested is through Catholic social teaching, in particular the teachings on human dignity and the principle of solidarity.
Migration in the Light of Catholic Social Teaching
28. Catholic teaching has a long and rich tradition in defending the right to migrate. Based on the life and teachings of Jesus, the Church's teaching has provided the basis for the development of basic principles regarding the right to migrate for those attempting to exercise their God-given human rights. Catholic teaching also states that the root causes of migration–poverty, injustice, religious intolerance, armed conflicts–must be addressed so that migrants can remain in their homeland and support their families.
29. In modern times, this teaching has developed extensively in response to the worldwide phenomenon of migration. Pope Pius XII reaffirms the Church's commitment to caring for pilgrims, aliens, exiles, and migrants of every kind in his apostolic constitution Exsul Familia, affirming that all peoples have the right to conditions worthy of human life and, if these conditions are not present, the right to migrate. "Then–according to the teachings of [the encyclica Rerum Novarum–the right of the family to a [life worthy of human dignity] 6 is recognized. When this happens, migration attains its natural scope as experience often shows." 7
30. While recognizing the right of the sovereign state to control its borders, Exsul Familia also establishes that this right is not absolute, stating that the needs of immigrants must be measured against the needs of the receiving countries:
Since land everywhere offers the possibility of supporting a large number of people, the sovereignty of the State, although it must be respected, cannot be exaggerated to the point that access to this land is, for inadequate or unjustified reasons, denied to needy and decent people from other nations, provided of course, that the public wealth, considered very carefully, does not forbid this. 8
In his landmark encyclical Pacem in Terris, Blessed Pope John XXIII expands the right to migrate as well as the right to not have to migrate: "Every human being has the right to freedom of movement and of residence within the confines of his own country; and, when there are just reasons for it, the right to emigrate to other countries and take up residence there." 9 Pope John XXIII placed limits on immigration, however, when there are "just reasons for it." Nevertheless, he stressed the obligation of sovereign states to promote the universal good where possible, including an obligation to accommodate migration flows. For more powerful nations, a stronger obligation exists.
31. The Church also has recognized the plight of refugees and asylum seekers who flee persecution. In his encyclical letter Sollicitudo Rei Socialis, Pope John Paul II refers to the world's refugee crisis as "the festering of a wound." 10 In his 1990 Lenten message, Pope John Paul II lists the rights of refugees, including the right to be reunited with their families and the right to a dignified occupation and just wage. The right to asylum must never be denied when people's lives are truly threatened in their homeland. 11
32. Pope John Paul II also addresses the more controversial topic of undocumented migration and the undocumented migrant. In his 1995 message for World Migration Day, he notes that such migrants are used by developed nations as a source of labor. Ultimately, the pope says, elimination of global underdevelopment is the antidote to illegal immigration. 12 Ecclesia in America, which focuses on the Church in North and South America, reiterates the rights of migrants and their families and the respect for human dignity "even in cases of non-legal immigration." 13
33. Both of our episcopal conferences have echoed the rich tradition of church teachings with regard to migration. 14 Five principles emerge from such teachings, which guide the Church's view on migration issues.
I. Persons have the right to find opportunities in their homeland.
34. All persons have the right to find in their own countries the economic, political, and social opportunities to live in dignity and achieve a full life through the use of their God-given gifts. In this context, work that provides a just, living wage is a basic human need.
II. Persons have the right to migrate to support themselves and their families.
35. The Church recognizes that all the goods of the earth belong to all people. 15 When persons cannot find employment in their country of origin to support themselves and their families, they have a right to find work elsewhere in order to survive. Sovereign nations should provide ways to accommodate this right.
III. Sovereign nations have the right to control their borders.
36. The Church recognizes the right of sovereign nations to control their territories but rejects such control when it is exerted merely for the purpose of acquiring additional wealth. More powerful economic nations, which have the ability to protect and feed their residents, have a stronger obligation to accommodate migration flows.
IV. Refugees and asylum seekers should be afforded protection.
37. Those who flee wars and persecution should be protected by the global community. This requires, at a minimum, that migrants have a right to claim refugee status without incarceration and to have their claims fully considered by a competent authority.
V. The human dignity and human rights of undocumented migrants should be respected.
38. Regardless of their legal status, migrants, like all persons, possess inherent human dignity that should be respected. Often they are subject to punitive laws and harsh treatment from enforcement officers from both receiving and transit countries. Government policies that respect the basic human rights of the undocumented are necessary.
39. The Church recognizes the right of a sovereign state to control its borders in furtherance of the common good. It also recognizes the right of human persons to migrate so that they can realize their God-given rights. These teachings complement each other. While the sovereign state may impose reasonable limits on immigration, the common good is not served when the basic human rights of the individual are violated. In the current condition of the world, in which global poverty and persecution are rampant, the presumption is that persons must migrate in order to support and protect themselves and that nations who are able to receive them should do so whenever possible. It is through this lens that we assess the current migration reality between the United States and Mexico.
Chapter III
Pastoral Challenges and Responses
Toward Conversion
40. Our concern as pastors for the dignity and rights of migrants extends to pastoral responses as well as public policy issues. The Church in our two countries is constantly challenged to see the face of Christ, crucified and risen, in the stranger. The whole Church is challenged to live the experience of the disciples on the road to Emmaus (Lk 24:13-25), as they are converted to be witnesses of the Risen Lord after they welcome him as a stranger. Faith in the presence of Christ in the migrant leads to a conversion of mind and heart, which leads to a renewed spirit of communion and to the building of structures of solidarity to accompany the migrant. Part of the process of conversion of mind and heart deals with confronting attitudes of cultural superiority, indifference, and racism; accepting migrants not as foreboding aliens, terrorists, or economic threats, but rather as persons with dignity and rights, revealing the presence of Christ; and recognizing migrants as bearers of deep cultural values and rich faith traditions. Church leaders at every level are called on to communicate this teaching as well as to provide instruction on the phenomenon of migration, its causes, and its impact throughout the world. This instruction should be grounded in the Scriptures and social teaching.
Toward Communion
41. Conversion of mind and heart leads to communion expressed through hospitality on the part of receiving communities and a sense of belonging and welcome on the part of those in the communities where migrants are arriving. The New Testament often counsels that hospitality is a virtue necessary for all followers of Jesus. Many migrants, sensing rejection or indifference from Catholic communities, have sought solace outside the Church. They experience the sad fate of Jesus, recorded in St. John's Gospel: "He came to what was his own, but his own people did not accept him" (Jn 1:11). The need to provide hospitality and create a sense of belonging pertains to the Church on every level, as Pope John Paul II said in his annual message on World Migration Day 1993: "The families of migrants . . . should be able to find a homeland everywhere in the Church." 16
42. We bishops have the primary responsibility to build up the spirit of hospitality and communion extended to migrants who are passing through or to immigrants who are settling in the area.
We call upon pastors and lay leaders to ensure support for migrant and immigrant families.
We urge communities to offer migrant families hospitality, not hostility, along their journey.
We commend church communities that have established migrant shelters that provide appropriate pastoral and social services to migrants.
We encourage Catholics and all people of good will to work with the community to address the causes of undocumented migration and to protect the human rights of all migrants.
We call on the local church to help newcomers integrate in ways that are respectful, that celebrate their cultures, and that are responsive to their social needs, leading to a mutual enrichment of the local church.
We ask that special attention be given to migrant and immigrant children and youth as they straddle two cultures, especially to give them opportunities for leadership and service in the community and to encourage vocations among them.
The Church on both sides of the border must dedicate resources to provide pastoral care for migrants who are detained or incarcerated. The presence of the Church within detention facilities and jails is an essential way of addressing the human rights violations that migrants may face when they are apprehended.
We encourage local dioceses to sponsor pertinent social services for migrants and immigrants, particularly affordable legal services.
In many rural dioceses, the primary site of pastoral outreach for farm workers is the migrant camp, usually at a significant distance from the parish church. In this context we encourage local parishioners to be prepared as home missionaries and the migrants themselves to be prepared as catechists and outreach workers.
Toward Solidarity
43. The building of community with migrants and new immigrants leads to a growing sense of solidarity. The bishop as pastor of the local church should lead the priests, deacons, religious, and faithful in promoting justice and in denouncing injustice towards migrants and immigrants, courageously defending their basic human rights. This should be true in both the sending and receiving churches. As leaven in the society, pastoral agents can be instruments for peace and justice to promote systemic change by making legislators and other government officials aware of what they see in the community. Working closely with other advocates for workers and with non-governmental organizations, the Church can be instrumental in developing initiatives for social change that benefit the most vulnerable members of the community.
44. The Church should encourage these broad-based efforts to provide both a comprehensive network of social services and advocacy for migrant families. Another important resource these communities can offer migrants, especially those seeking asylum or family reunification, is affordable or free legal assistance. A special call is issued to lawyers in both our countries to assist individuals and families in navigating the arduous immigration process and to defend the human rights of migrants, especially those in detention. Parishes should work together to provide adequate services throughout the community, making every effort to invite parishioners with special expertise (lawyers, doctors, social workers) to assist generously wherever they can.
Pastoral Care at Origin, in Transit, and at Destinations
45. The reality of migration, especially when the journey entails clandestine border crossings, is often fraught with uncertainties and even dangers. As migrants leave their homes, pastoral counseling should be offered to help them to better understand these realities and to consider alternative options, including the exploration of available legal means of immigration.
46. Prayer books and guides to social and religious services should be provided along the way and at the points of arrival. The migrants should be reminded of their role as evangelizers: that they have the capacity to evangelize others by the daily witness of their Christian lives. Special encouragement should be given to migrants to be faithful to their spouses and families and to thereby live out the sacrament of marriage. Support of the family that is left behind is also needed. Migration under certain conditions can have a devastating effect on families; at times, entire villages are depopulated of their young people.
47. Dioceses in Mexico and the United States need to work closely to provide a sacramental presence for migrants. Ideally, local parishes should ensure that sacramental preparation is available to people on the move, making special provisions for them given their transitory lives of following work wherever it leads. Eucharistic celebrations or communion services and the Sacrament of Reconciliation should be available to migrants where they can easily attend, and at times that best suit working people with families.
Collaborative Pastoral Responses
48. Ecclesia in America recommends collaboration between episcopal conferences for more effective pastoral responses. Collaboration is most needed in the development of a more systematic approach to ministerial accompaniment of migrants. The numbers of migrants who leave Central and South America and Mexico and who enter the United States are so large that a more concerted effort is needed in the preparation of priests, religious, and lay leaders who accompany them.
49. In previous centuries, when immigrants from eastern and western Europe came to all parts of the American continent, the Church in some countries established national seminaries to prepare priests to serve in the lands where others in their country were settling, particularly in North and South America. In other countries, the Church developed religious communities of men and women to accompany emigrants on their way, to minister to them on arrival, and to help them integrate into their new homes from a position of strength, often by forming national or personal parishes. In still other countries, the Church has developed exchange or temporary programs in which commitments are made to supply priests for a period of three to five years. Up to the present there have been individual exchanges of priests between Central and South American, Mexican, and U.S. dioceses. The bishops from Central and South America and Mexico have visited the U.S. dioceses to which these priests and their people have immigrated, and U.S. bishops have visited dioceses in Central and South America and Mexico, reflecting the teaching of the Second Vatican Council that every local church is missionary, both as sending and receiving church. This exchange has built up the spirit of collaboration encouraged in Ecclesia in America. These efforts have been very positive, but the results have not been uniform.
50. Careful and generous cooperation between dioceses is important to provide priests and religious who are suited for this important ministry. Guidelines for their training and reception by the host diocese must be developed jointly with the diocese that sends them. During their stay in the host diocese, international priests and religious deserve an extensive and careful orientation and gracious welcome. As immigrants themselves, they too experience the loss of a familiar and supportive environment and must have the support they need to adjust to the new environment and culture. Periodically, as resources allow, they should be encouraged to return to their home dioceses or motherhouses to rest and to reconnect with their communities.
51. A next step would be to study the possibility of a more comprehensive preparation and assignment of clergy, religious, and lay people who dedicate themselves to pastoral accompaniment of migrants. Such a study by representatives of both episcopal conferences should focus on the following:
The needs of migrants on their journey and at the points of their arrival
The dioceses most in need of priests, religious, and lay leaders
The possibility of seminaries in Mexico to prepare priests for service in the United States
The assignment of religious communities to accompany migrants
The study also should include recommendations on ways to build bridges of exchange between dioceses and on effective programs to orient ministers to the new culture they will enter. This formation should be an integral process of human development, educational enrichment, language acquisition, intercultural communication, and spiritual formation. In order to meet this critical need as soon as possible, cooperation with existing seminaries, schools of theology, and pastoral institutes is highly encouraged.
This study should also investigate ways to help the immigrants themselves to continue an active role as lay leaders in the new settings in which they find themselves and ways for the receiving church to animate and encourage them, especially those who served as catechists and community leaders in the country of origin. We recommend that a special academic subject on pastoral migration or human mobility be included as part of the regular curriculum in our seminaries, institutions, and houses of formation.
52. Another area of collaboration could be in the preparation of catechetical materials that would be culturally appropriate for migrant farm workers. Several examples already exist that reflect the collaboration of dioceses along both the United States-Mexico border and the Mexico-Guatemala border.
53. This cross-border collaboration has already reaped positive results, such as the development of legal services, social services, cooperation with houses of hospitality along the borders, and prayer books for the journey. Joint prayer services at the border, such as the Posadas, Good Friday vigils, and All Souls rites to cherish the memory of those who have died, also have been held.
54. To develop and continue the cooperation between the Church in the United States and Mexico, we bishops encourage ongoing dialogue between bishops and pastoral workers on the border, exchanges between dioceses, and continuing meetings between the USCCB's Committee on Migration and the CEM's Episcopal Commission for the Pastoral Care for People on the Move.
55. Ecclesia in America summed up these pastoral recommendations as follows:
Migrants should be met with a hospitable and welcoming attitude which can encourage them to become part of the Church's life, always with due regard for their freedom and their specific cultural identity. Cooperation between the dioceses from which they come and those in which they settle, also through specific pastoral structures provided for in the legislation and praxis of the Church, has proved extremely beneficial to this end. In this way the most adequate and complete pastoral care possible can be ensured. The Church in America must be constantly concerned to provide for the effective evangelization of those recent arrivals who do not yet know Christ. (no. 65)
Chapter IV
Public Policy Challenge and Responses
56. The United States and Mexico share a special relationship that requires focused attention upon joint concerns. The realities of migration between both nations require comprehensive policy responses implemented in unison by both countries. The current relationship is weakened by inconsistent and divergent policies that are not coordinated and, in many cases, address only the symptoms of the migration phenomenon and not its root causes.
57. Now is the time for both the United States and Mexico to confront the reality of globalization and to work toward a globalization of solidarity. We call upon both governments to cooperate and to jointly enact policies that will create a generous, legal flow of migrants between both nations. Both governments have recognized the integration of economic interests through the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA). It is now time to harmonize policies on the movement of people, particularly in a way that respects the human dignity of the migrant and recognizes the social consequences of globalization.
58. With these goals in mind, we offer several policy recommendations for both nations to consider that address the root causes of migration, legal avenues for migration, and humane law enforcement. These recommendations focus upon both U.S. and Mexican government policies toward newcomers in their own nations, since both are receiving countries.
Addressing the Root Causes of Migration
59. As we have stated, persons should have the opportunity to remain in their homeland to support and to find full lives for themselves and their families. This is the ideal situation for which the world and both countries must strive: one in which migration flows are driven by choice, not necessity. Paramount to achieving this goal is the need to develop the economies of sending nations, including Mexico.
60. Only a long-term effort that adjusts economic inequalities between the United States and Mexico will provide Mexican workers with employment opportunities that will allow them to remain at home and to support themselves and their families. The Church has consistently singled out economic inequality between nations as a global disorder that must be addressed.Within the United States-Mexico relationship, we have witnessed the application of economic policies that do not adequately take into account the welfare of individual proprietors who struggle to survive. For example, the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) has harmed small businesses in Mexico, especially in the rural sector. Both nations should reconsider the impact of economic and trade agreements on persons who work hard at making a living through individual enterprises.
61. The creation of employment opportunities in Mexico would help to reduce poverty and would mitigate the incentive for many migrants to look for employment in the United States. The implementation of economic policies in Mexico that create living-wage jobs is vital, especially for Mexican citizens without advanced skills. Targeted development projects in Mexican municipalities and rural areas that traditionally have had the highest rates of emigration are necessary. Projects and resources particularly should be targeted to the Mexican agricultural sector and small businesses.
62. As border regions are the focal point of the migration phenomenon, resources also should be directed toward communities on the United States-Mexico border. Such additional resources would augment existing efforts by border residents to aid migrants in meeting their most basic needs. We urge the initiation of joint border development projects that would help build up the economies of these areas so that border residents may continue to work and live cooperatively. Church leaders should work with both communities on the U.S. and Mexican border and both communities on the Mexican and Guatemalan border to help them to overcome fears and prejudices.
Creating Legal Avenues for Migration
63. With both the United States and Mexico experiencing economic, social, and cultural integration on an unprecedented scale, it is important that both governments formally acknowledge this reality by enacting reforms in the immigration systems of both countries.
Family-Based Immigration
64. As pastors, we are troubled by how the current amalgamation of immigration laws, policies, and actions pursued by both governments often impedes family unity. While the majority of Mexican migrants enter the United States to find work, many cross the border to join family members.
65. The U.S. legal immigration system places per-country limits on visas for family members of U.S. legal permanent residents from Mexico. This cap, along with processing delays, has resulted in unacceptable waiting times for the legal reunification of a husband and wife, or of a parent and child. For example, the spouse or child of a Mexican-born legal permanent resident can wait approximately eight years to obtain a visa to join loved ones in the United States. Spouses and parents thus face a difficult decision: either honor their moral commitment to family and migrate to the United States without proper documentation, or wait in the system and face indefinite separation from loved ones.
66. This is an unacceptable choice, and a policy that encourages undocumented migration. In order to ensure that families remain together, reform of the U.S. family-based legal immigration categories vis-à-vis Mexico is necessary. A new framework must be established that will give Mexican families more opportunities to legally reunite with their loved ones in the United States. 17 This would help alleviate the long waiting times and, in time, would reduce undocumented migration between the United States and Mexico.
67. Family unity also is weakened when the children of immigrants are left unprotected. In the United States, birthright citizenship should be maintained as an important principle in U.S. immigration law. In Mexico, some children are being denied birth certificates and consequent Mexican nationality due to their parents' undocumented status. As the Mexican Constitution ensures and Article 68 of the National Law of Population codifies, such children have the right and protection to be documented at birth. Otherwise, their access to health, education, and other basic services may be denied later in life. Moreover, the right to an identity and nationality are enshrined in international covenants.
Legalization of the Undocumented
68. Approximately 10.5 million Mexican-born persons currently live in the United States, about 5.5 million of whom reside legally, and the remainder of whom have undocumented status. Each year, an estimated 150,000 Mexican migrants enter the United States without authorization, working in such industries as agriculture, service, entertainment, and construction. 18 Despite the rhetoric from anti-immigrant groups and some government officials, they labor with the quiet acquiescence of both government and industry.
69. A broad legalization program of the undocumented would benefit not only the migrants but also both nations. Making legal the large number of undocumented workers from many nations who are in the United States would help to stabilize the labor market in the United States, to preserve family unity, and to improve the standard of living in immigrant communities. Moreover, migrant workers, many of whom have established roots in their communities, will continue to contribute to the U.S. economy.
70. Legalization also would maintain the flow of remittances to Mexico and would give Mexicans safe and legal passage back to Mexico, if necessary. In addition, such legalization would promote national security by reducing fear in immigrant communities and by encouraging undocumented persons to become participating members of society. Legalization represents sound public policy and should be featured in any migration agreement between the United States and Mexico. In order to ensure fairness for all nationalities, the U.S. Congress should enact a legalization program for immigrants regardless of their country of origin.
71. In the case of Mexico, the legalization programs that the Mexican National Migration Institute have executed provide a good beginning. The benefits of legalization have been evident to the migrants themselves, since they may now work with the protection of their basic labor rights; and to the government, which can now gain a more realistic picture of the population present in the country. We hope that future programs will provide more publicity and information to the public, will increase the number of and better train those who administer them, and will decrease the cost to the applicant, which in the past has disadvantaged those with lesser means. 19
Employment-Based Immigration
72. In the context of the United States-Mexico bilateral relationship, the United States needs Mexican laborers to maintain a healthy economy and should make a special effort to provide legal avenues for Mexican workers to obtain in the United States jobs that provide a living wage and appropriate benefits and labor protections. The U.S. employment-based immigration system should be reformed to feature both permanent and, with appropriate protections, temporary visa programs for laborers. A system that is transparent and that protects the rights of workers should be formulated. Visa costs of the program should remain affordable for all who wish to participate. Reform in worker programs must be coupled with a broad-based legalization program.
Remittances: The Lifeblood of Many Mexican Families
Mexican workers who labor in the United States send large portions of their wages, which they have earned by the sweat of their brows, back to their families in Mexico. Termed "remittances," these funds amount to as much as $8-10 billion a year, representing one of the largest sources of foreign currency in Mexico. These funds are an important source of support for many families in Mexico. Unfortunately, many Mexican workers in the United States must pay exorbitant fees (some as high as 20%) to send remittances to their families in Mexico. Perhaps a more efficient means can be devised for sending funds to Mexico that would result in more of the money reaching those in need. Furthermore, arrangements could be made with the organizations that process these remittances to channel some of their earnings from the fees to support community development efforts in Mexico, such as road construction, sewers, health clinics, and so on. Such an approach could be further expanded by making arrangements with the U.S. and Mexican governments to match developmental funds paid through fee revenues in order to augment the investment in sustainable community development programs.
73. A certain number of work visas should be created to allow laborers to enter the country as legal permanent residents. Family ties and work history in the United States are two of the possible factors that should be considered in allocating such visas. A visa category featuring permanent residency would recognize the contributions of long-term laborers and would ensure that their labor rights are respected.
74. More problematic is the reform of U.S. temporary worker programs. The first U.S. agricultural temporary-worker program, known as the Bracero program, ended abruptly in 1964 because of widespread evidence of corruption and abuse of workers. The current program, which allows more than thirty thousand workers to enter the United States each year, is marked by a lack of enforcement of worker protections and by insufficient wages and benefits to support a family.
75. Nevertheless, we recognize that, as an alternative to undocumented migration, an efficient legal pathway must be established that protects the basic labor rights of foreign-born workers. In order to prevent future abuse of workers, any new temporary worker program must afford Mexican and other foreign workers wage levels and employment benefits that are sufficient to support a family in dignity; must include worker protections and job portability that U.S. workers have; must allow for family unity; must employ labor-market tests to ensure that U.S. workers are protected; and must grant workers the ability to move easily and securely between the United States and their homelands. It must employ strong enforcement mechanisms to protect workers' rights and give workers the option to become lawful permanent residents after a specific amount of time. In addition, the United States and Mexico should conclude a Social Security agreement that allows workers to accrue benefits for work performed during participation in the program.
76. A properly constructed worker program would reduce the number of undocumented persons migrating from Mexico to the United States, lessening the calls for border enforcement and the demand for the services of unscrupulous smugglers.
77. Moreover, in order to honor the labor rights of foreign-born workers, the United States should sign the International Convention on the Protection of the Rights of All Migrant Workers and Members of Their Families, which lays out principles for the protection of the labor and human rights of migrant workers. 20 Mexico, already a signatory, should implement its principles without current reservations.
Humane Enforcement Policies in Mexico and the United States
Enforcement Tactics
78. As explained above, the Catholic Church recognizes the right and responsibility of sovereign nations to control their borders and to ensure the security interests of their citizens. Therefore, we accept the legitimate role of the U.S. and Mexican governments in intercepting undocumented migrants who attempt to travel through or cross into one of the two countries. We do not accept, however, some of the policies and tactics that our governments have employed to meet this shared responsibility.
79. The men and women of the law enforcement agencies charged with maintaining the United States-Mexico border have difficult jobs that require long hours in sometimes extreme conditions. Unfortunately, the enforcement policies that they implement have had the effect of undermining the human dignity of migrants and creating a confrontational and violent relationship between enforcement officers and migrants. Steps must be taken to create an environment in which force is used only in the most necessary circumstances, and only to the extent needed, to protect the physical well-being of both the enforcement officer and the migrant. This requires not only a review and reform of enforcement tactics, but also, more importantly, a reshaping of the enforcement policies of both nations.
80. Alarmingly, migrants often are treated as criminals by civil enforcement authorities. Misperceptions and xenophobic and racist attitudes in both the United States and Mexico contribute to an atmosphere in which undocumented persons are discriminated against and abused. Reports of physical abuse of migrants by U.S. Border Patrol agents, the Mexican authorities, and in some cases, U.S. and Mexican residents are all too frequent, including the use of excessive force and the shackling of migrants' hands and feet.
81. In the United States, documented abuses of migrants occur frequently. To be sure, the large majority of Border Patrol agents conduct themselves in a professional and respectful manner. But there exist those who perpetrate abuses and who are not held accountable by the U.S. government. 21
82. In addition, the U.S. record of handling undocumented unaccompanied minors from Mexico and other countries is shameful. Mexican children intercepted along the U.S. border often are placed in dilapidated detention facilities for days at a time until they can be repatriated. Children from Mexico and other countries in Central America often are not given the option to contact an attorney, guardian, or relative, or to file for asylum. These practices must stop. Because of their heightened vulnerability, unaccompanied minors require special consideration and care.
83. Mexican enforcement of immigration laws, targeted specifically through racial profiling of migrants attempting to reach the United States, has been marked by corruption, police brutality, and systemic abuses of basic human rights. Migrants often are forced to bribe Mexican police to continue transit and, if unable to produce payments, are beaten and returned to the border. Because of the lack of rights and policies that drive undocumented migrants away from small urban areas, the migrants often are assaulted by bandits in the border area between Ciudad Hidalgo, Mexico, and Tecun Uman, Guatemala. We know of migrants from Central America who pay thousands of dollars to smugglers to shepherd them through Mexico but who, in some cases, are kidnapped. Their families never hear from them again.
84. Although we acknowledge that the government of Mexico has improved the administration of the migration system and is attempting to bring the rule of law to it, Mexican immigration policies remain unclear and inconsistent. Corruption continues to weaken the Mexican migration system and to hurt the common good. We urge the Mexican National Migration Institute to strengthen the participation of civil society organizations in its Delegation Councils 22 as partners to bring healthy transparency to the country's migration system.
85. In order to address these excesses, both governments must create training mechanisms that instruct enforcement agents in the use of appropriate tactics for enforcing immigration law. We urge the U.S. and Mexican governments to include human rights curricula in their training regimens so that immigration enforcement personnel are more sensitive to the handling of undocumented migrants. 23 Community organizations, including dioceses and parishes, can assist enforcement officials in this effort. In addition, the enforcement function in both nations should be left to federal authorities (the Immigration and Naturalization Service and Border Patrol in the United States, and the National Migration Institute and Federal Preventive Police in Mexico), not transferred to local police who necessarily have other priorities and who are untrained in the proper methods for enforcing immigration law. Military personnel from any branch or service should not be used to enforce migration laws along either country's land borders.
Border Enforcement Policies
86. Of particular concern are the border enforcement policies pursued by both governments that have contributed to the abuse and even deaths of migrants in both Mexico and the United States. Along the United States-Mexico border, the U.S. government has launched several border-blockade initiatives in the past decade designed to discourage undocumented migrants from entering the country. These initiatives have been characterized by a tripling of Border Patrol agents, especially at ports of entry, and the use of sophisticated technology such as ground sensors, surveillance cameras, heat-detecting scopes, and reinforced fencing.
87. Rather than significantly reducing illegal crossings, the initiatives have instead driven migrants into remote and dangerous areas of the southwest region of the United States, leading to an alarming number of migrant deaths. Since the beginning of 1998, official statistics indicate that more than two thousand migrants have lost their lives trying to cross the United States-Mexico border, many from environmental causes such as heat stroke, dehydration, hypothermia, or drowning. The blockades also have contributed to an increase in migrant smuggling, in which desperate migrants pay high fees to smugglers to get them into the United States. In recent years, smuggling has become a more organized and profitable enterprise. 24
"Come and Look at My Brother in His Coffin"
Jose Luis Hernandez Aguirre tried desperately to find work in the maquiladora plants near Mexicali but was unable to do so. With a wife and two children, ages one and seven, Jose needed to find a job that would put food on the table. A smuggler told him of the high-paying jobs across the border and offered, for $1,000, to take him there. Joined by his brother Jaime and several others, the group headed for the United States with hope. After one day, brother Jaime called and reported to the family and Jose's sister, Sonia, that Jose was lost. Jaime could not make the trek in the desert, but Jose wanted to continue on the journey. He had to find a job for his family. Four days later, Jose's body was found in the desert. His sister Sonia borrowed a truck to retrieve Jose's remains. Upon her return, she encountered another group of migrants heading to the United States. "Why do you want to risk your lives like this?" she implored. "Come and look at my brother in his coffin."
88. In southern Mexico, similar policies have resulted in countless migrant deaths along the Suchiate River, most by drowning. Another cause for concern is the presence of Mexican checkpoints–far from most urban areas and difficult to monitor for human rights abuses–which are manned by military and federal, state, and local police agencies along the country's borders and interior. Because these checkpoints are used as "choke" points for arms, drugs, and migrant smuggling, there is an unfair tendency to associate migrants with criminal activity.
89. We urge both the U.S. and Mexican enforcement authorities to abandon the type of strategies that give rise to migrant smuggling operations and migrant deaths. Care should be taken not to push migrants to routes in which their lives may be in danger. The U.S. Border Patrol has recently launched a border safety initiative to prevent migrant deaths. We ask the Border Patrol to redouble their efforts in this area and to work more closely with community groups to identify and rescue migrants in distress. We also urge more concerted efforts to root out smuggling enterprises at their source using a wide range of intelligence and investigative tactics. In other church documents, the U.S. bishops have also expressed concern about the increasing drug-trafficking industry. 25
90. Similarly, we call upon both nations to undertake joint efforts to halt the scourge of trafficking in human persons, both within our hemisphere and internationally. Trafficking in persons–in which men, women, and children from all over the globe are transported to other countries for the purposes of forced prostitution or labor–inherently rejects the dignity of the human person and exploits conditions of global poverty.
91. Both governments must vigilantly seek to end trafficking in human persons. The U.S. government should vigorously enforce recent laws that target traffickers both at home and abroad. Mexican authorities must strengthen efforts to identify and to destroy trafficking operations within Mexico. Together, both governments should more effectively share information on trafficking operations and should engage in joint action to apprehend and prosecute traffickers.
Due Process Rights
92. In 1996, the U.S. Congress eviscerated due process rights for migrants with the passage of the Illegal Immigration Reform and Immigrant Responsibility Act (IIRIRA), which authorizes the detention and deportation of migrants for relatively minor offenses, even after they have served their sentences. IIRIRA has caused the unjust separation of untold numbers of immigrant families. 26 We urge the U.S. Congress to revisit this law and to make appropriate changes consistent with due process rights.
93. We also urge the Mexican government to honor the right to due process for all those who are in the country, specifically documented and undocumented migrants who do not now enjoy due process and who may be removed from the country for arbitrary reasons. Recognizing such a right only strengthens the rule of law in a country and further legitimates its institutions. 27
94. Once apprehended, migrants often are held in unsanitary and crowded prisons, jails, and detention centers, in Mexico and the United States, sometimes alongside serious criminal offenders. Migrants without documentation should not be treated as criminals, should be detained for the least amount of time possible, and should have access to the necessary medical, legal, and spiritual services. Asylum seekers who pass an initial "credible fear" interview should be released.
Protecting Human Rights in Regional Migration Policies
95. As defenders of those who flee persecution in foreign lands, we are increasingly troubled by the asylum policies employed by both the United States and Mexico. Most alarming is the prospect of creating a North American exterior boundary system in which asylum policies would be regionalized in such a way as to deny asylum seekers appropriate judicial remedies and protection. 28
96. Increasingly, asylum seekers from across the globe are smuggled through Central America to Mexico and the United States. They come from as far away as China, India, Iran, and Iraq. In most cases, they have valid claims for protection, but many are swept up in anti-smuggling initiatives in Central America and Mexico and are sent back to their persecutors without proper screening.
97. The denial of asylum adjudication rights is an especially acute problem along the United States-Mexico border. Employing a U.S. policy known as expedited removal, U.S. immigration officers routinely detain and deport migrants without giving them a hearing before an immigration judge. In fact, expedited removal is most heavily used against Mexicans. Of the just over 180,000 total removals from the United States in FY1999 and FY2000, 81 percent of those deported were Mexican. 29 Moreover, Mexicans and others deported under expedited removal are subject to being barred from readmission to the United States for at least five years. Along the southern border of Mexico, migrants are returned on a regular basis to Central America without screening.
98. Denying access to asylum procedures, making them complicated, or not providing clear information about them in languages that people can understand is a grave injustice and violates the spirit of international law and commitments made by both our countries. 30
99. We restate our long-held position that asylum seekers and refugees should have access to qualified adjudicators who will objectively consider their pleas. We urge both countries to take a leadership role in the Regional Conference on Migration ( Puebla Process) and to work with our Central American neighbors to ensure that asylum seekers and refugees throughout our hemisphere have access to appropriate due process protections consistent with international law.
Consequences of September 11 Terrorist Attacks for Migrants
100. The terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001, which ended so tragically in New York, the Washington, D.C., area, and Pennsylvania, have placed national security concerns at the forefront of the migration debate and have added another dimension to the migration relationship between the United States and Mexico. Certain security actions are a necessary response to credible terrorist threats, such as improved intelligence sharing and screening, enhanced visa and passport security, and thorough checks at the United States-Mexico border. Other actions, however, such as reducing legal immigration between the two nations, do not serve to make the United States or Mexico more secure. We urge both nations to cooperate in this area, but not to enact joint policies that undermine human rights, reduce legal immigration, or deny asylum seekers opportunities for protection.
Conclusion
101. As bishops we have decided, in the words of Pope John Paul II, to "put out into the deep" 31 in search of common initiatives that will promote solidarity between our countries, particularly among the Catholics of both countries. We are committed to the new evangelization of our continent and to the search for new ways of leading our peoples to encounter Christ, who is "the path to conversion, communion and solidarity" (EA, no. 7). 32
102. We recognize the phenomenon of migration as an authentic sign of the times. We see it in both our countries through the suffering of those who have been forced to become migrants for many reasons. To such a sign we must respond in common and creative ways so that we may strengthen the faith, hope, and charity of migrants and all the People of God. Such a sign is a call to transform national and international social, economic, and political structures so that they may provide the conditions required for the development for all, without exclusion and discrimination against any person in any circumstance.
103. In effect, the Church is increasingly called to be "sign and instrument both of a very closely knit union with God and of the unity of the whole human race" ( Lumen Gentium, no. 1). The Catholic bishops of the United States and Mexico, in communion with the Holy Father in his 1995 World Migration Day message, affirm that
In the Church no one is a stranger, and the Church is not foreign to anyone, anywhere. As a sacrament of unity and thus a sign and a binding force for the whole human race, the Church is the place where illegal immigrants are also recognized and accepted as brothers and sisters. It is the task of the various Dioceses actively to ensure that these people, who are obliged to live outside the safety net of civil society, may find a sense of brotherhood in the Christian community. Solidarity means taking responsibility for those in trouble.
The Church must, therefore, welcome all persons regardless of race, culture, language, and nation with joy, charity, and hope. It must do so with special care for those who find themselves–regardless of motive–in situations of poverty, marginalization, and exclusion.
104. We ask our presidents to continue negotiations on migration issues to achieve a system of migration between the two countries that is more generous, just, and humane. We call for legislatures of our two countries to effect a conscientious revision of the immigration laws and to establish a binational system that accepts migration flows, guaranteeing the dignity and human rights of the migrant. We ask public officials who are in charge of formulating, implementing, and executing immigration laws to reexamine national and local policies toward the migrant and to use their leadership positions to erase misconceptions about migration. We ask adjudicators who process immigrants' legal claims to create a welcoming atmosphere that does not threaten their confidence or security. We encourage the media to support and promote a genuine attitude of welcoming toward migrants and immigrants.
105. We, the Catholic bishops of the United States and Mexico, pledge ourselves to defend the migrant. We also pledge to support the creation of the necessary conditions so that all may enjoy the fruit of their work and life in their homeland, if they so wish.
106. We stand in solidarity with you, our migrant brothers and sisters, and we will continue to advocate on your behalf for just and fair migration policies. We commit ourselves to animate communities of Christ's disciples on both sides of the border to accompany you on your journey so that yours will truly be a journey of hope, not of despair, and so that, at the point of arrival, you will experience that you are strangers no longer and instead members of God's household. We pray that, wherever you go, you will always be conscious of your dignity as human beings and of your call to bring the Good News of Jesus Christ, who came that we "might have life and have it more abundantly" (Jn 10:10). We invite you who are forced to emigrate to maintain contact with your homes and, especially, to maintain fidelity to your families so that you treasure your cultural values and the gift of faith and so that you bring these treasures to whatever place you go.
107. The appearance of Our Lady of Guadalupe to St. Juan Diego revealed the compassionate presence of God reaching out to Mary to be in solidarity with and to give hope to a suffering people. In the same spirit, we, the Catholic bishops of the United States of Mexico and the United States of America, have written this letter to give hope to suffering migrants. We pray that you will experience the same hope that inspired St. Paul in his Letter to the Romans:
What will separate us from the love of Christ? Will anguish, or distress, or persecution, or famine, or nakedness, or peril, or the sword? As it is written: "For your sake we are being slain all the day; we are looked upon as sheep to be slaughtered." No, in all these things we conquer overwhelmingly through Him who loved us. For I am convinced that neither death, nor life, nor angels, nor principalities, nor present things, nor future things, nor powers, nor height, nor depth, nor any other creature will be able to separate us from the love of God in Christ Jesus our Lord. (Rom 8:35-39)
108. And may the blessing of Almighty God come down upon you and be with you forever: the blessing of God the Father, who loves you with an everlasting love, the blessing of God the Son, who was called out of exile in Egypt to be our Savior, and the blessing of God the Holy Spirit, who guides you to extend Christ's reign wherever you go. And may Mary of Guadalupe, our mother, bring you safely home.
Delivered on the fourth anniversary of
Ecclesia in America, January 22, 2003,
Washington, D.C., U.S.A., and Mexico City, Mexico.
Definitions
Asylee:
See Refugee, below. The definition conforms to that of a refugee except regarding the location of the person upon application for asylum: The asylee applies for protection in the country of asylum, whereas the refugee applies for status in either his or her home country (under certain circumstances) or in a country of temporary asylum.
Globalization: The process whereby the world's goods, communications, and peoples are more fully integrated, accessible, and interdependent.
Immigrant: A person who moves to another country to take up permanent residence.
Legal Immigrant: A person who has been admitted to reside and work on a permanent basis in the United States; admission is most commonly based on reunification with close family members or employment.
Migrant: A person on the move, either voluntarily or involuntarily, in the person's own country, internationally, or both. Unlike refugees, migrants are commonly considered free to return home whenever they wish because their lives are not in danger there.
Refugee: Any person, who, owing to a well-founded fear of being persecuted for reasons of race, religion, nationality, membership in a particular social group, or political opinion, is outside the country of his or her nationality and is unable or, owing to such fear, is unwilling, to avail himself or herself of the protection of that country; or who, not having a nationality and being outside the country of his or her habitual residence as a result of such events, is unable or, owing to such fear, is unwilling to return to it (source: United Nations International Law).
Undocumented immigrant: A person who is in a country without the permission of that country's government. Such persons are called "undocumented" because they lack the required paperwork.
Notes
1 The synod was held in Vatican City from November 16 to December 12, 1997.
2Cf. Conferencia del Episcopado Mexicano (CEM), Del Encuentro con Jesucristo a la Solidaridad con Todos (México, DF: CEM, 2000). United States Conference of Catholic Bishops (USCCB), Welcoming the Stranger Among Us: Unity in Diversity (Washington, D.C.: USCCB, 2000).
3 U.S. Department of Transportation, Bureau of Transportation Statistics, North American Trade and Travel Trends, BTS01-07 (Washington, DC 2001), 19.
4 Immigration and Naturalization Service, press release "INS Announces Legal Immigration Figures for FY2001," Washington, D.C., August 30, 2002.
5 V. Maccagnan, ed. Stefano de Fiores and Salvatore Meo, "Guadalupe," Nuevo Diccionario de Mariologia (Madrid: 1988).
6 "No one would exchange his country for a foreign land if his own afforded him the means of living a decent and happy life" (Pope Leo XIII, Rerum Novarum [On Capital and Labo [May 15, 1891], no. 47. Retrieved from Vatican website: www.vatican.va).
7 Pope Pius XII, Exsul Familia (On the Spiritual Care to Migrants) (September 30, 1952), in The Church's Magna Charta for Migrants, ed. Rev. Giulivo Tessarolo, PSSC (Staten Island, N.Y.: St. Charles Seminary, 1962), 50, citing June 1, 1951, Vatican radio address.
8 Ibid., 51, citing 1948 Vatican letter to U.S. bishops.
9 Pope John XXIII, Pacem in Terris (Peace on Earth) (April 11, 1963) (Washington, D.C.: USCCB, 1963), no. 25.
10 Pope John Paul II, Sollicitudo Rei Socialis (On Social Concern) (December 30, 1987) (Washington, D.C.: USCCB, 1988), no. 24.
11 Pontifical Council Cor Unum and Pontifical Council for the Pastoral Care of Migrants and Itinerant People, Refugees: A Challenge to Solidarity (1992), nos. 13-14. Retrieved from Vatican website: www.vatican.va.
12 Pope John Paul II, Message for World Migration Day 1995-1996, Undocumented Migrants (July 25, 1995), no. 2. Retrieved from Vatican website: www.vatican.va.
13 Pope John Paul II, Ecclesia in America (The Church in America) (January 22, 1999) (Washington, D.C.: USCCB, 1999), no. 65, citing Propositio 20.
14 "Immigrants from lands across the globe have helped build our great nation. . . . Their presence has enriched our local communities, rural areas, and cities, and their faith in God has enlightened our increasingly secularized culture" (USCCB Resolution on Immigration Reform, November 16, 2000, no. 2).
15 Pope Paul VI, New Norms for the Care of Migrants "Pastoralis Migratorum" (August 15, 1969) (Washington, D.C.: USCCB, 1969), no. 7.
16 Pope John Paul II, Message for World Migration Day 1993, Problems of the Migrant Family (August 6, 1993), no. 3, citing Familiaris Consortio, no. 77. Also see Welcoming the Stranger Among Us: Unity in Diversity for recommendations.
17 The bishops in the United States have consistently supported reform of the family reunification visa system. Numerical limits on visas have adversely impacted many nationalities, especially Filipinos. In the context of this statement, we focus on Mexican family reunification because of the proximity of Mexico to the United States and because of the unprecedented number of families separated between these two countries. The per-country limit for Mexico and other affected countries, such as the Philippines, should be increased without harming allotments for other nations.
18 U.S.-Mexico Migration Panel, Mexico-U.S. Migration: A Shared Responsibility (Washington, D.C.: Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, 2001). Jeffrey Passel, "New Estimates of the Undocumented Population in the United States" (Washington, D.C.: Migration Policy Institute/Migration Information Source, May 22, 2002).
19 Foro Migraciones, Migración: México Entre Sus Dos Fronteras, 2000-2001 (México: Foro Migraciones, 2002). The CEM's Human Mobility Commission is a member.
20 In the U.N. Convention, migrant workers are viewed as more than laborers or economic entities. They are social entities with families and, accordingly, have rights, including the right to family reunification. (See International Convention on the Protection of the Rights of All Migrant Workers and Members of Their Families, United Nations General Assembly, December 18, 1990. This document can be obtained from the U.N. Center for Human Rights, 8-14 Avenue de la Paix, 1211 Geneva 10, Switzerland.)
21 In 2000, the U.S. Office of Internal Audit (OIA) of the U.S. Immigration and Naturalization Service (INS) opened 4,527 cases of reported abuse by INS agents. Roughly 10 percent were referred to the U.S. Department of Justice's Civil Rights Division, and less than 10 percent of those referred led to prosecutions. See Chaos on the U.S.-Mexico Border: A Report on Migration Crossing Deaths, Immigrant Families, and Subsistence-Level Laborers (Washington, D.C.: Catholic Legal Immigration Network, 2001).
22 The Mexican National Migration Institute has consulting councils for each of its thirty-two regional offices (one for each state and Mexico City) and national office. Such councils include representatives from broad sectors of Mexican society, including universities, shelters, and churches.
23 The U.S. Border Patrol does include some treatment of human rights protection in their training. More intensive instruction in the proper use of force and in appropriate engagement and retention techniques should be considered.
24 In Tecuman, Guatemala, along the Mexico-Guatemala border, smugglers have established offices to receive Central American migrants who wish to travel through Mexico to the United States. (Source: U.S. bishops' delegation to Central America, October 2000.)
25 See New Slavery, New Freedom: A Pastoral Message on Substance Abuse (Washington, D.C.: United States Conference of Catholic Bishops, 1990).
26 The law also applies retroactively for an offense committed years ago for which a person has already served his or her sentence.
27 "What article 33 of the Constitution does, is grant the faculty to the government of being able to arbitrarily expel a foreigner. It is arbitrary, firstly, because no due process is required, in other words, it is a faculty that may not be submitted to the scrutiny of constitutionality or legality, either ex ante or ex post. It is a direct elimination of the guarantees contained under articles 14 and 16 of the Constitution." (Foro Migraciones, Migración: México Entre Sus Dos Fronteras, 2000-2001 (México: Foro Migraciones, 2002], 57).
28 The United States and Canada agreed to coordinate asylum policies on December 5, 2002.
29 U.S.-Mexico Migration Panel, Mexico-U.S. Migration: A Shared Responsibility (Washington, D.C.: Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, 2001), 28. Also see Statistical Yearbook of the Immigration and Naturalization Service, Fiscal Year 2000 (online at www.ins.usdoj.gov).
30 The detention of asylum seekers without serious reasons is a violation of the letter and spirit of the "Conclusions on International Protection" of the UNHCR Executive Committee. Both Mexico and the United States are members of the UNHCR Executive Committee, and both have accepted the conclusions. References: No. 44 (XXXVII) 1986; No. 46 (XXVII) 1987; No. 50 (XXXIX) 1988; No. 55 (XL) 1989; No. 65 (XLII) 1991; No. 68 (XLIII) 1992; No. 71 (XLIV) 1993; No. 85 (XLIX) 1998; No. 89 (LI) 2000.
31 Pope John Paul II, Novo Millennio Ineunte (January 6, 2001), no. 1. Retrieved from Vatican website: www.vatican.va.
32 "Taking the Gospel as its starting-point, a culture of solidarity needs to be promoted, capable of inspiring timely initiatives in support of the poor and the outcast, especially refugees forced to leave their villages and lands in order to flee violence" (EA, no. 52).
|
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17422
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yago
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https://www.adventistfaith.com/media/recorder/el-camino-a-cristo-spanish-congregation-is-organized-as-a-church
|
en
|
El Camino a Cristo Spanish Congregation Is Organized as a Church
|
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2023-05-17T00:00:00-04:00
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(También español) The church is so happy with this status; it’s a dream come true,” said Gustavo Mendez, senior pastor of the newly organized El Camino a Cristo Spanish church.
|
en
|
/build/image/1.png?w=32&h=32&fit=crop-50-50&s=65246a0ff92265ca1ed5ad1371555cdd
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https://www.adventistfaith.com/media/recorder/el-camino-a-cristo-spanish-congregation-is-organized-as-a-church
|
LEA ESTE ARTÍCULO EN ESPAÑOL
The church is so happy with this status; it’s a dream come true,” said Gustavo Mendez, senior pastor of the newly organized El Camino a Cristo Spanish church.
More than 20 years ago, a group known as El Evangelio Eterno was formed by members who sacrificed their time, money, and talents to push God’s mission forward. In 2010, this group was organized as El Camino a Cristo Spanish company, and 13 years later, the congregation celebrated its new church status.
For Pastor Mendez, who has been senior pastor for about two years, this milestone is especially meaningful. Ten years ago, El Camino a Cristo Spanish company was his first assignment as a youth pastor in the United States. “For me, it’s like coming back home,” he said. “When I first arrived at the church, they were so welcoming. They gave me the opportunity to grow, and many years later when I received the call to come back home, I knew I was ready to come back.”
The Sabbath afternoon celebration began with a ribbon-cutting ceremony. Southern California Conference (SCC) officers Velino A. Salazar, John H. Cress, and Kathleen Diaz and Hispanic Region Director Jaime Heras were present. Cress, SCC executive secretary, prayed over the congregation before Diaz, SCC treasurer/CFO, cut the ribbon. Then, everyone walked into the sanctuary together as a praise team sang “Onward Christian Soldiers.”
This moment was inspired by the Israelites’ crossing the parted Red Sea, being in the midst of God’s miracles. “For our church, it’s been a history of continuous miracles,” Mendez said.
During the service, Salazar shared a message challenging the congregation to continue God’s mission in creating disciples. Cress and Salazar presented Mendez and church leaders with the certificate of organization, and Diaz provided a gift of $2,500 for evangelism.
While members Hector and Armando shared church history, they talked of the church’s food ministry outreach, which started during the pandemic in 2020. Just before the organization ceremony began, members were finishing up this outreach. Every Saturday, 30 volunteers serve about 100 people through the food bank, and that Sabbath was no exception. “The food bank helps us to connect with the community to provide spiritual and even financial support,” Mendez shared.
The celebratory day continued into the evening with the start of a week-long evangelistic series led by Bradford C. Newton, Pacific Union Conference (PUC) president, and Alberto Ingleton, PUC vice president for Hispanic Ministries, and livestreamed by TV Tu Mundo. By the end of the series, more than 20 people were baptized.
____________________
By Araya Moss
La congregación El Camino a Cristo es organizada como iglesia
La iglesia está muy feliz con ese estatus; es un sueño hecho realidad», dijo Gustavo Méndez, pastor de la recién organizada iglesia hispana El Camino a Cristo.
Hace más de 20 años, un grupo conocido como El Evangelio Eterno fue formado por miembros que sacrificaron su tiempo, fondos y talentos para impulsar la misión de Dios. En 2010, ese grupo se organizó como la compañía hispana El Camino a Cristo. 13 años después, la congregación celebró su nuevo estatus de iglesia.
Para el pastor Méndez, quien ha sido su pastor durante aproximadamente dos años, ese hito es especialmente significativo. Hace diez años, la compañía hispana El Camino a Cristo fue su primera asignación como pastor de jóvenes en los Estados Unidos. «Para mí, es como volver a casa», dijo. «Cuando llegué por primera vez a la iglesia, fueron muy acogedores. Me dieron la oportunidad de crecer y muchos años después, cuando recibí el llamado para volver a casa, supe que estaba listo para volver».
La celebración del sábado por la tarde comenzó con una ceremonia de corte de cinta. Los oficiales de la Southern California Conference (SCC), Velino A. Salazar, John H. Cress y Kathleen Díaz y Jaime Heras, el director de la Región Hispana, estuvieron presentes. Cress, secretario ejecutivo de SCC, oró por la congregación antes de que Díaz, tesorera/CFO de SCC, cortase la cinta. Después, todos entraron juntos al santuario mientras un equipo de alabanza cantaba «Firmes y adelante».
Ese momento fue inspirado por los israelitas cruzando el Mar Rojo, presenciando los milagros de Dios. «Para nuestra iglesia, ha sido una historia de milagros continuos», dijo Méndez.
Durante el servicio, Salazar compartió un mensaje desafiando a la congregación a continuar la misión de Dios en la creación de discípulos. Cress y Salazar presentaron a Méndez y a los líderes de la iglesia el certificado de organización, y Díaz proporcionó un regalo de $2,500 para evangelismo.
Mientras los miembros Héctor y Armando compartían la historia de la iglesia, hablaron sobre el ministerio de alimentos de la iglesia, que comenzó durante la pandemia en 2020. Justo antes de que comenzase la ceremonia de organización, los miembros estaban llevando a cabo ese ministerio. Cada sábado, 30 voluntarios sirven a unas 100 personas a través del banco de alimentos y ese sábado no fue la excepción. «El banco de alimentos nos ayuda a conectarnos con la comunidad para brindar apoyo espiritual e incluso financiero», compartió Méndez.
La celebración continuó hasta la noche con el inicio de una serie evangelística de una semana de duración dirigida por Bradford C. Newton, presidente de la Pacific Union Conference (PUC), y Alberto Ingleton, vicepresidente del Ministerio Hispano de la PUC, y transmitida en vivo por TV Tu Mundo. Al final de la serie, más de 20 personas fueron bautizadas.
____________________
|
|||||
17422
|
yago
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0
| 8
|
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0090969/
|
en
|
Dragón Rapide (1986)
|
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1986-07-10T00:00:00
|
Dragón Rapide: Directed by Jaime Camino. With Juan Diego, Manuel de Blas, Saturno Cerra, Eduardo MacGregor. The two weeks leading up to the Spanish Civil War in 1936 are dramatized from many different locations in Spain, Morocco and London.
|
en
|
IMDb
|
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0090969/
|
Dragon Rapide was an ordinary, small private De Havilland DH-89 aircraft that played an important role in the outbreak of the 2nd Spanish Civil War in July 1936. It was chartered in London by the part of the military conspirators who were about to rise in rebellion against the legitimate Republican government (communist, de facto, since the advent of the Popular Front) with the mission to fly discreetly to the Canary Islands to take General Franco from here to Spanish North Africa (Morocco nowadays) to meet the bulk of the rebel faction of the army he'll eventually lead through three dramatic years of civil war until the rendition of the capital, Madrid.
The movie opens showing the weeks prior to the military uprising and how the conspirators react and complete their plans. Some of the highest ranked generals (Franco, Mola, Goded, Fanjul) are of course men who were conservative, religious and raised in the traditional values. They (as about half of the Spanish population and Military) are growing increasingly worried about the reign of terror that is becoming Spain under the atrocities made by the armed and uncontrolled communist militias and the lack of interest and authority of the Republican government to stop them. Finally, the generals make the decision to go ahead with the uprising and to protect the Nation... even against the legitimate Government.
If you are not Spanish, just consider this: In your standard Civil War there is a geographical factor: North against South, East vs West and so on, but in the case of Spain it was mostly a political and moral gap that made the difference: It was lefts vs rights and that implied religion versus laicism/atheism... so in many many cases the civil war divided tragically families, cities and neighborhoods, fathers against sons, brothers vs. sisters.
The Spanish politic and social factors involved in the Civil War and its causes and consequences are much too complex to be fully analized in the film or in this humble synopsis. Even today the wounds of the Civil War (1936-39) and the subsequent 36 years of military government/dictatorship under Franco (1939-1975) are so fresh in every individual, in every family on both sides. It is still a hot and conflictive subject where little objectivity is achieved: There is no political "center" on Spain, just Lefts and Rights. I was born 34 years ago, just when Franco died, and even many people of my generation have grandfathers and elder relatives who fought and/or died and/or were imprisoned in both sides, so opinions use to be so HOT.
Due to the complex background of the Civil War some very important factors on it are not shown at all and others are shown or explained only slightly, but that's not the intention of this movie - it's not a documentary after all. In general terms I must say it is a quite impartial, fair version of both sides' points of view - just a little bit lefty, but definitely far more impartial than the bulk of movies made about Spanish Civil War in Spain and abroad. It is the only film that I can recall that reflects the very important fact that Franco was not the only high-ranking General that was involved, and he had roughly about half of the military and the people with him The depictions of Generals Franco and Mola are well portrayed and their motivations are seen and explained with a fair objectivity. In the average lefty Spanish movie all the National side from Franco to the last soldier are just insane nazi bad guys with the only interest of killing and causing terror withour reason - just like Freddy Krueger or Leatherface. That's totally unfair and that's ABSOLUTELY not historically true and that's not funny or interesting neither. Right or wrong, they were exceptionally prepared generals and intelligent individuals and their decisions were so complex and painful - to go to war against half of their own country, which they swore to protect. All those movies done from political resentment lose that juicy main point from the very beginning, considering only one side of the story (THEIR side, of course).
In all, the main, "high-level" political and historical facts are well intertwined with the smaller layer composed by the individual characters and their minor stories, helplessly caught in the unstoppable spiral of violence of a divided country that they know will lead to a civil war. The costumes and props also show a good job, without excess - the atmosphere created looks like an adequate recreation of the Spanish 1930's. A nice, clean, well-balanced movie in general terms, in my humble opinion.
|
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17422
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yago
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0
| 58
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https://www.fundacionjacobea.org/en/memory-of-the-pilgrimage/alina-romania-2020/
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Fundación Jacobea
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2020-03-04T11:20:47+00:00
|
I am Alina from Romania, I was around 20 years old when I first heard about the Camino de Santiago. It was on TV, a presenter of a television program recounted her experience of the Camino, it fascinated me and at the same time I admired her act of courage: to go alone to make […]
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Fundación Jacobea
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https://www.fundacionjacobea.org/en/memory-of-the-pilgrimage/alina-romania-2020/
|
I am Alina from Romania, I was around 20 years old when I first heard about the Camino de Santiago. It was on TV, a presenter of a television program recounted her experience of the Camino, it fascinated me and at the same time I admired her act of courage: to go alone to make that magical trip for a month in an unknown land.
Twenty years passed and again I heard an acquaintance of mine talk about her trip to Santiago, of which she gave me an icon with the Apostle. Then I remembered again the presenter and her beautiful story lived on the Camino. I began to gather more information, because something inside me stimulated my interest to know more about that famous journey.
In the year when I turned 40, to be more exact on June 17, 2018, I started my own Camino from Saint-Jean-Pied-du-Port with great enthusiasm.
At first, I did not know the exact reason for my pilgrimage. I felt that call to do it. I thought it would be a beautiful experience to see so many emblematic places that are found along the Camino and in this way it would be a different type of vacation.
Day after day you wake up early; walk in the mountains or among the wheat fields of La Meseta; you see how each sunrise shyly embraces you with its first rays; you walk slowly, without haste, because on the Camino there is no rush, on the Camino time stops; you take a good shower at the end of each day and enjoy each drop as never before, which seems to cleanse my soul more than my body; and you look forward to going to Mass every afternoon to pray – on the Camino I prayed as I had never done before – and to receive the pilgrim’s blessing.
I really liked this new way of living. All my thoughts changed then, now they are different, my life is still very simple because I realized that I do not need so many material things to be happy, what I have in my backpack is enough.
I realized that my path is spiritual because what I liked the most was that I had the time to talk with the Lord, before I did not feel that need to be in contact with Him.
In the 30 days of travel, I have never made plans to continue, I have never booked a place in any hostel, I left everything every day in the hands of God, I was never disappointed.
Before arriving at the emblematic O Cebreiro, my legs did not listen to me anymore, I had a tendinitis and a swollen knee. I thought I would not arrive and, as I walked, I began to pray, until without realizing it I saw that I was already in front of the landmark of the entrance to Galicia and, although I was alone, I felt that someone was accompanying me and coming up with me helping me.
And so arrived. I thought that the best thing was to go first to get a bed in the hostel and then return to enter and pray in the church of Santa Maria la Real de O Cebreiro. But something was calling me inside and it would not let me go to the hostel first, so I entered the church and my gaze went to the crucifix that is on the altar, it seemed that Jesus was looking at me, as if waiting for me, my tears began to flow involuntarily. I felt embraced, it was a hug full of kindness and an inner peace that overwhelmed me. It was just like the feeling when you are little and you hurt yourself and your mother comes to calm you down and hugs you with affection.
There I met Fray Paco, a Franciscan priest who was watching what was happening with me and immediately, without thinking, I asked him for a hug, without knowing that precisely in that church he had the custom of hugging each pilgrim at the end of mass.
I did not go on that trip to seek God, but I found him in every pilgrim, in the sunrises, in the little birds that sang around the Camino, in rivers and eucalyptus forests, in the stones of the Camino and in the small churches. It was everywhere, it was always there, it was in me, but before I didn’t know how to look for it.
Before arriving in Santiago, on my penultimate day of walking, I couldn’t get to Pedrouzo and I stayed in Santa Irene, the pain in my knee was killing me. I started to cry, I felt unable to continue the last 21 km. My goal was so close that the only thing I could do was pray and trust, once again, in Him. I asked Him not to take away the pain, I had accepted that, but to take me, like this, with the pain, to hug the Apostle.
The next day I arrived in Santiago without any pain, as if it were my first day walking. I had nothing reserved for my arrival in Santiago, nothing prepared, when I left the Pilgrim’s Office with my Compostela in hand, a nun smiled at me and asked me if I wanted to stay that night at the San Francisco Convent hostel, and the luckily, the shelter was managed by the same Franciscan priest, Fray Paco, whom he had met in O Cebreiro.
Someone up there loves me!
The Way truly teaches you, without rushing, to enjoy every moment. It teaches you to smile sincerely, it teaches you to share not only smiles but pain. It is not necessary to know many languages to relate, on the Camino another language is spoken, the language of the heart and, most importantly, the Camino is not done so much with the feet as with the soul.
For me the Camino was like going “home”, you want to get there as soon as possible, you need it. On the Camino my soul feels freedom in its purest form, but, as Fray Paco told me, the Camino does not end in Santiago or in Finisterre, the Camino begins when you finish walking, then the true Camino begins.
It is the Camino of life!
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17422
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yago
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0
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https://www.roamfarandwide.com/camino-de-santiago-days-18-19-20-burgos-spain/
|
en
|
Camino de Santiago, Days 18, 19, 20: Burgos, Spain
|
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2013-05-21T22:39:34+00:00
|
My resting Days 18,19 and 20 from the Camino de Santiago. Photos of Burgos, Spain and a description of the city from Roam Far and Wide.
|
en
|
Roam Far and Wide
|
https://www.roamfarandwide.com/camino-de-santiago-days-18-19-20-burgos-spain/
|
Jamie and I needed a place and the time to catch up and relax. Burgos, a cosmopolitan city with close to 200,000 people, fit the bill.
The old town of Burgos is beautiful. The current Burgos Cathedral, built in the 1200’s and directly on the path of the Camino, towers over the main plaza. Unfortunately, it has been so cold that it is rather unpleasant to be outside. The local women walking in fur coats have the right idea.
We’ve walked around the old town and eaten and had plenty to drink. We have been in the bars and thrown our sunflower seed shells or peanut shells on the floor just like the locals do.
We’ve enjoyed a hotel stay and another opportunity to wash our stinky clothes in the sink, watch TV, and sleep. The TV just keeps reporting on the story of the Oklahoma tornado. Very sad.
We went to the Burgos Cathedral and the Museum of Human Evolution which showcases some of the many finds from Atapuerca, including a 500,000-year-old skull of Homo antecessor, “one of the earliest human varieties in Europe” and stone tools used my Homo heidelbergensis. I stared into the eye sockets of the Homo antecessor skull but got no messages. 500,000 years ago is sort of unfathomable.
Tomorrow, we set off again, walking separately but together in spirit. We hope to meet up again in four days or 100 kilometers.
Photos of Burgos, Spain:
|
|||||
17422
|
yago
|
0
| 81
|
https://www.instituteforcreativemindfulness.com/icm-blog-redefine-therapy/pal-this-is-not-a-holy-war/
|
en
|
Pal, This is Not a Holy War
|
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"Dr. Jamie Marich"
] |
2022-11-14T09:46:31-05:00
|
As I slowly moved down another painful declining portion on my second day walking the Camino de Santiago, my already injured knee rolled in and loudly popped.
|
en
|
The Institute for Creative Mindfulness
|
https://www.instituteforcreativemindfulness.com/icm-blog-redefine-therapy/pal-this-is-not-a-holy-war/
|
As I slowly moved down another painful declining portion on my second day walking the Camino de Santiago, my already injured knee rolled in and loudly popped. Intuitively, I knew that I was done for the day on these legs that already walked 12 miles plus 14 ½ the day before. One of the main reasons that I even decided to try the last five days of the original French Route (from Sarria to Santiago) is that taxis could easily be called in the case of injury. Yet my reactionary comment to my intuition was to go into negative self-talk, limping along for at least another ½ mile, before making the call. It was only another two miles or so to our planned stop for the night. And there I focused on what my body wouldn’t allow me to do easily instead of focusing on what I’d already done—walk 27 miles over two days on a right knee that’s been messed up since I was a teenager.
I shared in my pre-Camino blog that in training to walk the planned 62 miles in five days, I came to believe that I could really do it. And I found most of the walking quite enjoyable and the many uphill inclines, while challenging, were doable. I was not fully prepared for the intensity of the downhills and declines, especially on sections of the path that were rocky and uneven. In the months leading up to the Camino, both my orthopedist and physical therapist told me that I was practically bone-on-bone on the right knee, and that the next step after arthritis medications and physical therapy would be gel injections to give my knees the needed shock absorption that was missing. In retrospect, I never ought to have tried the downhills of the Camino without them, and after this journey there is no doubt in my mind that my knees need this treatment.
After arriving at Palais de Rei by taxi, I found it quite interesting that our hotel was right next to a 24/7 Urgent Care and I wondered if that was a sign that I needed to go. After icing my knee, which always helps with the inflammation, I decided to see how I felt in the morning. Following my morning stretches, I opted to start walking that day which, at 18 miles, happened to be our longest scheduled day. I made a promise to myself that I wouldn’t try to be a hero, rather, I would take it a mile/kilometer at a time. The first hour started out well and I really felt that I could handle the day, especially after reading that this portion to Arzúa would be easy on the foot. My Camino companions Irene and Kellie laughed the night before, wondering, “Whose foot?”
Definitely not mine when I hit the first bad decline on the rocks, about three miles into that day’s hike. I moved as slowly as I could, and the tears started pouring even harder than the light rain we walked in that morning. Tears flow pretty easily for me and they were abundant on the first two days of the Camino as I processed feelings around all of the relationships of my life—with my partners, my family of origin, my profession, my faith and spiritual practices, and most importantly, my wounded body. Yet on this third day, all of the feelings related to my body and the horrible things that people and societal forces have tried to get me to believe about it since I was very small, flooded me.
I remembered my childhood pediatrician, himself an overweight man who carried himself like a bully, lecturing me at age five that I weighed ten pounds more than a child of my age should weigh. He told me that if I didn’t cut out the junk food now, it would be harder to lose the weight when I got older. Memories of my elementary school bullies who usually uncreatively referred to my chubbiness as they taunted me with jabs like “Fat Bitch” or “Fatso” as part of their cruel pranks, and of course the battles with my parents over what I ate and how I looked. I remembered how, when I suddenly and unhealthfully lost about 35 pounds at age 12-13 so that I could more seriously pursue figure skating, all the people around me—even my bullies—were so proud of me. My eating in that era bordered on anorexic, which my maternal grandmother blessedly recognized. I just wrote it off that her Croatian heart who showed love through her cooking was offended that I wouldn’t eat her food anymore, yet she knew something that others clearly did not or would not because people were just so damn impressed by how good I looked.
As high school progressed and my focus shifted more to academics (which I was good at) than sports (where I was merely the kid who gave the effort), my weight started to creep back up to a number that actually felt more natural. This gain made my parents uncomfortable, with both of them vocalizing during my senior year that if I didn’t “watch it” before college I would never find a husband. I’ve come to view my mother’s protests about my weight with some more compassion over the years, aware that she too was a product of feminine societal conditioning. Yet my father’s voice constantly struck me as more cruel and the very voice of the patriarchy. During our senior play, where I had the leading role playing a delightfully chubby comedienne where we used a little padding to embellish her size, my father said afterwards, “Jamie knows I don’t care for fat women and the play centered around a fat woman, so…” And my relationship with my body and food really did go downhill from those senior year moments, as I began to eat more and more to medicate the feelings of inadequacy about my body that felt out of my control. Not to mention that when your feelings get hurt over and over again, comfort food can feel very good.
I made one more effort to try to “get my body back” when I was about 20, dropping about 25 pounds when I dabbled in skating again. Although I was far past my prime of trying to make anything happen with it competitively, it was fun to teach Learn to Skate and pass some ice dancing tests. Yet every day I skated I would need serious ice, pain relieving gels, and ibuprofen to deal with pain in my knees that started after a bad fall five years prior. I was first put on arthritis medication during this return to skating, and my family physician warned me that I would probably need a total knee replacement sometime in my fifties.
And yes, these memories swirled on my walk as I battled with the current situations in which I find myself as a 43-year-old attempting to stay as active as possible and trying to get help for her knee. Of course every doctor I see defaults to the, “Have you considered weight loss?” trope, to which I want to just scream into their faces, “Oh darlings, I’ve not only considered it, I’ve tried it, done it, succeeded at it, and failed at it, over and over again. Since I was 12. And yet here we are.” As I walked, I considered the irony that in my Dancing Mindfulness work I am an ambassador for loving your body and moving in it with acceptance, and yet here I was—after so much therapy on the matter—shaming my body. I thought about all I’ve learned in my study of the Health at Every Size (HAES) work, the flawed science of the Body Mass Index (BMI), the unsustainability of most weight loss programs, and the very real presence of a Fat Liberation movement that seeks to improve the lives of overweight people through more widespread education on the many reasons for size diversity and cultivating greater paradigms for acceptance and accommodation.
As I walked, the battle raged on in my head: Oh come on, fat liberation? Jamie, you’ve done this to yourself. You’re the one who let your body go. You’re the one who has big appetites and would rather be reading and writing than doing physical things. In reality, I was hearing my father’s voice and the voice of so many physicians and societal forces who one way or another put out there that people of size cannot do challenging things with their bodies. As my pain raged on, I started to wonder if they were right. I thought about something I heard from my new primary care physician and other people in the Akron-Cleveland area where I now live: that the major hospital system in which I am being treated orthopedically would likely not operate on my knee whenever that time came unless I first lost a significant amount of weight. The level of numerical weight I would need to lose would require either gastric bypass surgery, a procedure that I know would be violent for me, or adopting anorexic-like eating and workout behaviors that I had as a young teenager. Part of why I emphasize numeric weight is that even these sacred doctors look shocked when they see the number pop up on the scale—they’ve been shocked since I was a child because I “wear my weight so well.”
Of course a statement like that is usually followed up with some cliché like, just because you wear it well doesn’t mean it isn’t heavy, or caution me that weight is still weight on the knee. Yet what I’ve struggled with is that even as a woman who has embodied the same number on the scale (minus 20 pounds here and there) since I was 23, I can still do everything that I want to do with my body and overall I am happy to inhabit the body that I have. It’s other people’s cruelty and doubts that they plant into me that have been the biggest source of struggle. So like any victim of abuse, I’m made to wonder, “Am I really just doing this to myself?”
All of these memories, together with the physical pain in my knee, brought me to the bottom of a tortuous hill and a small village church in San Xiao. Outside the church I saw Kellie, one of my walking mates, and two young pilgrims we’d met on our first day of walking. Both of the young women, Tamara and Houda, hugged me, with Houda saying, “I know, it’s hard,” very gently. I went into the church, taking her words with me, acknowledging that this quest wasn’t just physically hard; it was mentally draining to still experience shame about the body in which I walked. So I plopped myself down into the church and I cried for what felt like at least half an hour. Spiritually, it was also a beautiful experience of encountering a loving God who was there to receive me with warmth and accept me just as I was, in my injury, at the bottom of this hill. And those moments also felt reparative in the larger context of my struggle with the institutional churches in which I was raised not accepting me for who I am.
When I left the church, I continued to walk another three miles or so and while the internal battles intensified in many ways, they eventually brought me to a place of compassionate reason. The popping and crunching in my knee resumed after this stretch and the internal dialogue sounded something like: You’re a quitter. You’re a baby. Think about the ancient pilgrims and all of your ancestors. They couldn’t have just called a car when they wanted to—they had to push through. And if you quit, you’re letting everyone with those opinions about large people not being able to do hard things win…they’ll be right. You have to keep walking to show them that fat people can do it.
And then I realized that to continue on this hurt when there was reasonable assistance available, would constitute deliberate self-injury. No fat person should have to walk 100 kilometers through Spain to prove some kind of point that they are good enough to receive necessary care. And when I could view the struggle in those lights, after walking 6 ½ miles that day, I called to get a taxi to Arzúa. When I arrived at our hotel, I was met by a lovely young desk attendant named Adrián who validated just how tough the Camino declines are on people with knee injuries, and without any whisper of body shaming, he made a call for me to see a physiotherapist that afternoon. Before that very helpful treatment, I spent some time icing my knee and I checked in with my best friend and spiritual sister, Ali Bugzavich. As a fellow person in recovery and the woman on this planet who knows me better than anyone, I relayed to her some of my journey from that day, knowing she would have something brilliant to say. I told her that I felt like this whole Camino, I’ve been at war with my body.
Ali congratulated me for doing what I needed to do to take care of myself, and she punctuated it with, “Pal, this is not a holy war.”
This line became the saying of my Camino experience. Her counsel also helped me to accept Adrián’s recommendation of taking a car two miles around the last bad decline of the Camino outside of Arzúa. After I rejoined the Camino, I walked the final 8 miles of the fourth day with no problem and finished the last day of nearly 14 miles feeling strong.
Pilgrimage means to cross a threshold, and many thresholds were crossed on this Camino experience that were very personal to me. The amount of emotional work that the Camino invited me into was unlike anything I ever expected, and it’s work that I will be doing for the foreseeable future as I transition back home and make some further decisions about my care and how to regard my physical body. When I arrived in Santiago, I debated whether or not I should ethically receive a Compostela certificate because I had not walked every kilometer of the required 112km minimum, although my Camino passport credential for pilgrims bared the requisite number of stamps at two per day.
The answer felt very clear to me: While I may not have walked every kilometer of the Camino, I certainly traveled it and more importantly, I embraced the call of pilgrimage. I didn’t run away from each threshold as they revealed themselves. With the fullness of my humanity I welcomed the tears, did the work which was as powerful as any EMDR Therapy session, and am forever changed by my experience in Spain. So in accepting my Compostela, I accepted the invitation to be a seeker on what the priest in Santiago called the pilgrimage of life.
I look forward to seeing where the road will take this body and the soul who inhabits it next…
|
|||||
17422
|
yago
|
0
| 39
|
https://www.cntraveler.com/story/tips-walking-spains-camino-de-santiago
|
en
|
5 Tips for Walking Spain's Camino de Santiago
|
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[
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[
"Eugenia González de Henn",
"Jessica Poitevien",
"Celeste Moure",
"Claire Boobbyer",
"Sarah James",
"Kyler Alvord",
"Lauren Burvill",
"Condé Nast"
] |
2016-09-03T08:00:00-04:00
|
There's a lot to be learned on a month-long medieval pilgrimage. Here, a few lessons gleaned from the dusty road.
|
en
|
https://www.cntraveler.com/verso/static/conde-nast-traveler/assets/favicon.ico
|
Condé Nast Traveler
|
https://www.cntraveler.com/story/tips-walking-spains-camino-de-santiago
|
Twenty-eight days of walking. More than 400 miles crossed. Four women and one goal—to complete the ancient pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. You might know someone who's made this trek; about 250,000 people walk the centuries-old Camino de Santiago trail across the Spanish countryside every year. Or maybe you just saw the Martin Sheen movie The Way. But the journey is a legend, for good reason. I can now say it was one of the most incredible experiences of my life—different from any other trip I've taken. I'm a city girl, born and raised, who loves traveling but has never been an ‘adventure’ traveler—not even a camper or a backpacker. But here I was, with my mother, aunt, and friend, lugging a month's worth of gear on my back and a load on my mind. Here are a few things I learned along the way…
There isn't an app for that.
This is one of the rare times you won't be able to rely on technology. Internet and phone signals are sparse on the Camino; and unless you like the experience of not knowing how far you'll walk or where you'll sleep that night, a guidebook is essential. Anton Pombo’s The Way of St. James in Your Backpack gave a great breakdown of places to stay and recommended mileage to cover each day. I am not big on bunk beds, shared bathrooms, being rushed, or feeling lost—which, for some, are integral parts of the Camino experience. Instead, we planned ahead, booked everything, and gave ourselves time to enjoy the towns along the way. It may not be the edgiest way to travel, and by some we were dismissed as “not authentic pilgrims” (as travelers on the Camino are called) but it gave us the freedom to walk at own pace and know we had a place to sleep, no matter how late we arrived. Also, a little tip you might not read in the guidebook: We discovered that if you walked a little farther or stopped earlier than suggested in the books, you might find smaller crowds and more agreeable hotels. Some of our favorite towns for overnight stays were Cacabelos, Tardajos, Castrojeriz, Sahagun, and Astorga.
You don’t have to suffer.
Many travelers believe if you don’t suffer on the Camino, you are not a true peregrino. A real pilgrim stays in albergues, or hostels with 20 or 30 beds in a room, and shares the bathroom and never complains. That was not for me. The 18-mile daily walk is already an intense physical and mental challenge—I didn't need to add more on top of that. Jacotrans and Caminofacil will help carry your load (if you need it). Take advantage of the amazing Paradores hotels along the Way that are just as much a part of the history of the Camino; most of them were originally built as pilgrim hospitals. The Parador in Leon, Santo Domingo de la Calzada, and Santiago de Compostela were my favorites. Stop in every town, go into every bar, visit all the churches; you have time to breathe, to think, to—gasp—enjoy.
Family matters.
Lots of people ask me how my relationship with my mother and aunt changed during this time. Had we ever done a trip like this together? Had we ever spent so much time together? No and no. Part of my motivation for doing this trip was precisely that. When do you ever get to spend a month with your mother hiking across a foreign country? It seemed like now or never—and by the end of the trip, I had newfound tolerance, empathy, and respect for them. At a certain point in life, mothers become more human, less demi-god, and you realize as a child that they have their own set of feelings, worries, and problems. On the Way, we could stop playing the mother/daughter game and just be two people who appreciate and love each other. Many small things that used to bother me about her stopped bothering me. I got the chance to understand and appreciate why she is the way she is. It took a month of togetherness to have that revelation.
A uniform equals freedom.
I never realized how much clothing consumed my mind until I was in a situation where I didn’t have to think about it. I had two changes of clothing for the hike and one outfit for the evenings. I only had one thing to consider—Is it cold? Is it hot?—and that determined the look. It took all of two minutes of my day. This is a big revelation for someone who loves clothes and works in fashion. I finally understood why people might dress in uniforms (think Steve Jobs) that I used to think were wildly boring. It's amazing how much more time you have to think, to plan, to be creative when you're not consumed by daily rituals.
Go the extra mile. Or ten miles.
To get your official certificate (called ‘Compostela’) from the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago de Compostela, you have to cover at least the final 100 kilometers (62 miles) of the Way on foot or horseback, and the final 200 kilometers (124 miles) on bicycle. The moment you arrive at the 100km-to-go mark, tourism groups and pilgrims start flooding the road. The experience is simply not the same. Start before the mark and take advantage of the solitude. The extra distance is worth every step.
|
||||
17422
|
yago
|
3
| 83
|
https://www.theautopian.com/the-bmw-i3-is-having-a-moment-right-now-and-its-not-just-me/
|
en
|
The BMW i3 Is Having A Moment Right Now, And It's Not Just Me
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[
"David Tracy"
] |
2024-08-03T17:11:40+00:00
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I know, I can’t stop talking about the BMW i3, and that may confuse you a bit. Why won’t this guy just shut up about this little city car? Well, it’s because ever since I first drove an i3 a year and a half ago, I’ve known one thing for sure: This car is special. […]
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en
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The Autopian
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https://www.theautopian.com/the-bmw-i3-is-having-a-moment-right-now-and-its-not-just-me/
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I know, I can’t stop talking about the BMW i3, and that may confuse you a bit. Why won’t this guy just shut up about this little city car? Well, it’s because ever since I first drove an i3 a year and a half ago, I’ve known one thing for sure: This car is special. I’ve driven hundreds of cars in my life, and something about the i3 stands out among all of them. And now there’s a little validation that I haven’t gone completely crazy: The world is starting to show appreciation for the Carbon Fiber Wonder from Leipzig.
To be clear, the prices are still going nowhere but down, and that’s not surprising since it’s very much a niche car for a niche buyer.
But I’m not talking about values when I say the world is starting to appreciate the i3: I’m talking about this:
What you’re looking at in the top photo and the image above is a new exhibit in the Petersen Automotive Museum titled “Alternating Currents: The Fall And Rise of Electric Vehicles.” Not only does the exhibit show a completely stripped-down BMW i3 chassis, but the whole exhibit is, in a way, a celebration of the i3. And that’s crazy when you think about it: Can you think of any other 10 year-old car that you can buy for $11,000 that would be shown so prominently in a huge museum exhibit?
You see, the exhibit not only showcases the i3, but also its predecessors and siblings. Here’s the i3’s spiritual predecessor, the E2:
Here’s the Mini E, which came after the E2 but before the i3; it was actually just a conversion done by the newly-minted “i team” at BMW tasked with EV innovation:
Then there’s the BMW Vision Efficient Dynamics, which would go on to become the BMW i8, the i3’s sibling:
You can see details of BMW’s electric lineage in this extremely well-done video by The Petersen:
That video is hosted by head of BMW Group Classic Thomas Plucinsky, who does a fantastic job presenting his company’s electric history in a very non-PR-ish way.
He begins by introducing the BMW 1602 all-electric coupe; it was basically a 2002 converted to electric with a front motor and front-mounted lead-acid batteries; it was showcased at the 1972 olympics:
Next, Plucinsky mentions the BMW E2 design mule and its running prototype predecessor, the E1. The E2, BMW mentions, was actually designed here in California and first shown at the 1991 LA Auto Show:
Here’s a look at an engineering drawing of the E1 running prototype:
Then the video mentions the beginning of BMW’s “i Division,” named after “innovation.” Per the Plucinsky, the it all began in 2009 when BMW put together a team to really crank up EV development. The first vehicle that came out of that group was the Mini E:
If you don’t recall having seen one of these first-gen Mini Coopers in EV form, it’s because BMW worked with AC Propulsion to convert just 500 cars to electric power. The vehicles were leased to customers to figure out how drivers use their EVs. “All this data we wanted back to feed into the next program,” Plucinsky mentions.
Incidentally, my college capstone project, a totaled VW Jetta converted into a rear-wheel drive convertible EV, utilized both power electronics from a decommissioned Mini E as well as the 35 kWh battery pack from that car (you can see the pack behind the front seats in the Mini above). Below are some images of my college capstone project:
Here’s a quote from my thesis:
To power the car, we went with lithium‐ion battery packs. The pack that we ended up receiving is a partially used pack from a Mini E. More specifically, the battery modules are EV Grid 53P2S, which contain Panasonic 18650 batteries. Each battery module is wired in series.
Therefore to reach the correct operating voltage of the motor there must be very close to the optimal number of modules. Each of the EV Grid battery packs is 7.2V. The desired motor voltage is 360V, thus the goal was to fit 50 modules into the car, but we ended up only being able to package 48.
Anyway, the next-generation of the BMW “i” division was the BMW ActiveE, which was basically just an electrified BMW 1 Series:
The ActiveE was important because it was the testbed for the technology later used in the BMW Vision Efficient Dynamics and the BMW i3 production car, of which BMW made a quarter million between 2013 and 2022.
Here’s a look at the i3 at the Petersen:
The truth is that there are lots of other amazing early electric cars at the exhibit beyond BMWs; here’s a description from The Petersen:
Electricity has been used to power automobiles since the 1830s, when Scottish inventor Robert Anderson built a rudimentary electric carriage. At the turn of the 20th century, it was the most popular means of motor vehicle propulsion; it was clean, quiet, reliable, and especially well-liked by wealthy women who appreciated—and could afford—the autonomy that electric cars offered. However, electric vehicles were also heavy, expensive, limited in range, and required a great deal of time to recharge, and these drawbacks could not be easily addressed with then-available technologies.
Inexpensive oil and the wide adoption of the electric self-starter during the mid-1910s ultimately enabled petroleum-powered vehicles to dominate the market. Still, automakers continued experimenting with electric power over the next century, and with the limits of internal combustion engineering now becoming ever more apparent, new interest in electric power has prompted the automobile industry to reintroduce electric vehicles as part of their mainstream marketing mix. Today, the demand for EVs is so strong that manufacturers who do not offer them are more the exception than the rule.
I plan to be at the exhibit opening this evening. I will be driving my 2021 i3S Rex Giga World.
I’ll conclude this article with another bit of proof that the i3 is “having a moment,” as my headline claims. Not only is arguably the greatest car museum in the world showcasing the car in a new exhibit, but the greatest automotive benchmarking company in the world (and YouTube powerhouse) Munro and Associates just put together a 42-minute homage to the i3. Check it out above.
Again, all this love for a 10-year-old small electric city car. If that’s not a testament to the car’s incredible engineering, I don’t know what is.
All images via The Petersen Automotive Museum or Tiziano Niero
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17422
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yago
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3
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https://www.theringer.com/tv/2019/10/4/20898076/breaking-bad-defining-shots-el-camino
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en
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The 12 Defining Shots of ‘Breaking Bad’
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] |
[] |
[] |
[
""
] | null |
[
"Adam Nayman"
] |
2019-10-04T00:00:00
|
Before ‘El Camino,’ a review of the original show’s most groundbreaking visuals—and a reminder that it might be the best-looking show of the 21st century
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en
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https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/8991993/favicon.0.ico
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The Ringer
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https://www.theringer.com/tv/2019/10/4/20898076/breaking-bad-defining-shots-el-camino
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Whether or not you think that Breaking Bad has a claim to being the best television show of the post-Sopranos era, a case can certainly be made that it’s the best looking. For five seasons, creator Vince Gilligan and cinematographer Michael Slovis cultivated an expressive, eccentric, scrupulously slick look apart from other narratively or thematically similar dramas. It’s not so much that Breaking Bad’s imagery was “cinematic” as that it displayed a belief in the ability of single frames to convey emotional and intellectual information, even on a small-screen scale. Even if, at times, the show’s color-coded production design and inventory of symbolic objects could seem heavy-handed, the overriding impression was one of thoughtful, mischievous showmanship, with every directorial choice calibrated to serve—or heighten—the material. Walter White’s ego and delusions of grandeur created a context for Gilligan’s aesthetic: From the very beginning, a kind of stylized megalomania was built into Breaking Bad’s DNA on a molecular level. We’re not sure if these are necessarily the 12 best shots in the history of the show—that’s something to argue about on Twitter—but taken together, they represent a startling mosaic of image-making.
“Cornered”
This bird’s-eye view of Skyler White visually renders her as a piece in a board game: It’s her move and she doesn’t know which way to go. It’s an inspired use of the famous Four Corners Monument that marks the quadripoint of Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, and Utah. The visual transforms the monument from a locus of American community into a symbol of paralytic indecision. Coming in the aftermath of Walt’s iconic “I am the one who knocks” speech—arguably his most explicit and chilling affirmation of villainy, as well as of his expectations that his wife simply buckle up for the ride—Skyler’s abortive plan to flee is as understandable as it is futile. She wants to go, but she can’t, and the circular shape of the meeting point as seen from above comes to represent a brand-new cycle of entrapment and despair.
“Crawl Space”
At times, the twisty plotlines and panoramic world-building of Breaking Bad gave it the feel of a graphic novel, and the last shot of Season 4’s screw-turning “Crawl Space” doubles down on a panel-style aesthetic of frames within frames. In narrative terms, “Crawl Space” is one of the tensest hours in the show’s history. Walter is being steadily encroached upon by his brother-in-law, Hank, which in turn leads to Gus threatening to kill his whole family. The solution—such as it is—is to go into hiding. This proposition will cost half a million dollars, which is a preposterous sum that Walter nevertheless has judiciously squirreled away for emergencies—or so he thinks. The revelation that the money is gone (and worst of all, used to pay the IRS debt of Skyler’s boss turned lover) provides the episode with its dramatic cliffhanger. The composition of the frame offers a squared-off, bird’s-eye view of Walter wedged into his crawl space, and conveys the precise, isolating nature of his entrapment and claustrophobia.
“Face Off”
When Roy Scheider shot the compressed-air tank being chomped on by Bruce the shark at the end of Jaws, he didn’t just save Amity—he inaugurated the great tradition of the exploding bad guy. A few years later, Brian De Palma gave John Cassavetes the same treatment at the close of The Fury; then the Coens followed suit with the Demon Biker of the Apocalypse in Raising Arizona, and next thing you knew, a trope was born. The calculus goes something like this: The more formidable the villain, the more satisfying the sight of them coming apart at the seams. Which is why the death of Giancarlo Esposito’s Gus Fring, lured into a confrontation with his nursing-home-bound nemesis, Hector Salamanca, and unaware that the latter has consented to have a bomb attached to his wheelchair, ranks among Breaking Bad’s most ecstatic moments. It’s not that Gus had it coming so much as the grotesque, wonderfully pulpy staging of his send-off, which shows him emerging—hilariously, impossibly—from the blast only to reveal that his face has been half-flayed away, Harvey Dent–style. It’s a vivid visual metaphor for the character’s mixture of civility and savagery. The mask is ripped away to reveal what lies beneath.
“Fifty-One”
Swimming pools abound in Breaking Bad; over the course of the show, Walt fishes a dirty Band-Aid and a bedraggled teddy bear from the shallow end of his backyard setup. In Season 5’s haunting “Fifty-One,” Skyler briefly becomes Breaking Bad’s most significant waterlogged object when she walks serenely into the pool during Walt’s birthday party in a suicide pantomime that’s no less upsetting for being a self-conscious stunt without—seemingly—true intent for self-harm. The scene is shot from underneath and backlit through the water by deckside pool lights, and Skyler cuts a hovering, angelic figure similar to the Blue Fairy at the end of Steven Spielberg’s A.I. It’s possible that this enchanted image represents Sklyer’s idealized version of herself: a self-sacrificing martyr baptizing herself clean of Walt’s dirty empire.
“Fly”
“Everything is contaminated,” says Walter at the end of this canonical bottle episode, which was directed by Rian Johnson with a flair that belies its deceptively simple scenario of Walter and Jesse trying to capture an errant housefly before it gets into the mix at the lab. In a slyly underplayed anticlimax, Jesse ends up swatting the bug to death, but the episode nevertheless ends with Walt staring at a fly perched on an orange smoke detector light—confirmation that his troubles won’t be so easily solved, and an image with the nightmarish intensity of a hallucination.
“Full Measure”
Or: “Looking Down the Barrel of a Gun,” with a nod to the Beastie Boys—but no (crown) royalties. The moral implosion of Walter White is Breaking Bad’s main subject, but at its best, it found a way to inventory the collateral damage. The transformation of Jesse Pinkman from a stoned wastoid into a stone-cold killer is arguably the blackest mark on his former chemistry teacher’s transcript: After failing Jesse as a student, Walt systematically goes about destroying any residual promise the kid might have had. Convincing Jesse to preemptively kill Gale Boetticher in the wrenching Season 3 finale might be his most heartless bit of manipulation when you factor in not only the fate of the victim (Gale being a relative innocent in the show’s universe), but also the way it demagnetizes his protege’s moral compass once and for all. By shifting the focus from Aaron Paul’s anguished expression to place his weapon in sharp relief, Gilligan suggests a frightened young man who’s temporarily become subordinate to a gun; Jesse phases out of view and the gun gets its star close-up before a harrowing, definitive cut to black.
“4 Days Out” / “Gliding Over All”
It’s a cliché to have a tortured character look at themselves in the mirror in a time of crisis or anguish, and yet director Michelle MacLaren makes it work in Season 2’s “4 Days Out.” The scene lets Walter’s distorted reflection in a dented restroom paper-towel dispenser—dented from a fit of rage on Walt’s part—serve as an externalization of some inner fracture. Walt’s violent outburst punctuated what should have been a moment of relief—news that his cancer was in remission. His response indicated that the last thing Walt actually wanted was to recover. But three seasons later, the shot evolves even more: The paper-towel dispenser becomes a returning character in Season 5’s “Gliding Over All” as we revisit the same bathroom, a scene that consolidates Walt’s concision and power by using the passage of time to show the deepening of the character’s moral and physical decline. It’s also just funny to think that several years later, nobody’s bothered to replace the damaged dispenser, which is an apt summation of a dramatic universe in which nobody at any level seems to feel even the slightest twinge of accountability.
“Madrigal”
Every Stanley Kubrick movie after Lolita includes a key scene in a bathroom: Kubrick picked up on Alfred Hitchcock’s taboo depiction of a toilet in Psycho, and unlocked something voyeuristic and menacing about a traditionally private space. Certainly, the cherry-red accents in the bathroom that serves as a backdrop for this episode’s startling cold open is indebted to The Shining, specifically the scene when Jack Torrance has an extended conversation with a demonic butler; both sequences are color-coded to suggest that there will be blood. The stylization here is on-the-nose obvious and slyly funny (even the toilet paper looks crimson), while the choreography of the occupant’s suicide—death by automatic defibrillator—ranks high in Breaking Bad’s canon of startling, deadpan violence.
“Mandala”
Matt Zoller Seitz compared the crane-assisted shot of Jesse levitating in the wake of shooting heroin for the first time to the work of Martin Scorsese and Spike Lee: It’s subjective, kinetic, and unrealistic—a literal heightening effect. The physical ingenuity required to pull it off is one thing, but it’s really Aaron Paul’s performance that makes it achieve liftoff. It’s absolutely uncanny how Jesse seems to empty out in front of our eyes, as if the sudden absence of any weighty tension, or any conscious thought at all, is what motivates his float toward the ceiling. Few shows have traded in close-up images of anguish as much as Breaking Bad, but Jesse’s mask of serenity is more unnerving than all those other grimaces put together.
“Ozymandias”
Percy Bysshe Shelley’s poem “Ozymandias” is a meditation on hubris. It’s about the idea that even the mightiest rulers will fall, and be remembered by the incomplete traces they leave behind. Shelley’s blend of grandeur and abstraction resulted in a work so resonant that contemporary storytellers have consistently strip-mined it for meaning: Alan Moore’s Watchmen featured a sociopathic superhero who took on the name of the poem’s arrogant king. Gilligan’s allusion is equally direct and wonderfully playful, and riffs on the episode’s central image of “two vast and trunkless legs” that “stand in the desert” via a cameo by Walt’s long-lost khakis tucked into the corner of the frame. The mythic intimations don’t stop there, however: If the diminished meth mogul is on some level meant to be Ozymandias, the choreography of him rolling a barrel through the desert (containing the last $10 million of his empire) also evokes the luckless Sisyphus, doomed by fate to push a rock uphill. Walter’s trajectory is flatter but no less futile, and by collapsing past and present into a sort of purgatory, the shot achieves a form of symbolic perfection.
“Pilot”
We were just talking about Walt’s khakis. The pure, whimsical abstraction of this shot, taken from the show’s first sequence, represents an early high point in Gilligan’s overall project of defamiliarizing the everyday: It’s got the non-sequitur elegance of a surrealist canvas. Of course, it also means something, and works immediately to pique our curiosity about (1) the khakis, (2) their owner, and (3) how and why they’ve become parted. This is the first in an infinite series of abject, hilarious humiliations visited on a character whose pathology has a lot to do with anxieties about who wears the pants in his household. So yeah, clever stuff.
“Say My Name”
As with Gus in “Face Off,” Mike gets a death worthy of him in “Say My Name.” It’s not a grotesque, cartoony send-off, but a moment of gentle, poetic contemplation. Jonathan Banks’s ability to convey a core of thoughtfulness in a hardened, precise killer was always one of Breaking Bad’s true aces in the hole (thankfully carried over to the prequel narrative of Better Call Saul). The feeling that Mike has finally found peace at the wrong end of his own stolen gun (fired by his longtime collaborator/punching bag Walt) is as tender as the show gets, and in the middle of so many arid, lonely desert vistas, the lake-mountain-tree trifecta conveys a sense of respite, and even reprieve. Seen from a distance, the two could simply be friends resting in the middle of a hike, but their placement within the frame also hints that they’re twins—and that before long, Walter will be staring down the reality of his own mortality.
|
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0
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https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo/jaime-salvador.html
|
en
|
res stock photography and images
|
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[
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Find the perfect jaime salvador stock photo, image, vector, illustration or 360 image. Available for both RF and RM licensing.
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en
|
Alamy
|
https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo/jaime-salvador.html
|
Alamy and its logo are trademarks of Alamy Ltd. and are registered in certain countries. Copyright © 23/08/2024 Alamy Ltd. All rights reserved.
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https://letterboxd.com/director/jaime-camino/
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en
|
Films directed by Jaime Camino
|
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Films directed by Jaime Camino
|
en
|
https://letterboxd.com/director/jaime-camino/
|
Letterboxd is an independent service created by a small team, and we rely mostly on the support of our members to maintain our site and apps. Please consider upgrading to a Pro account—for less than a couple bucks a month, you’ll get cool additional features like all-time and annual stats pages (example), the ability to select (and filter by) your favorite streaming services, and no ads!
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0
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https://jamiemetz.com/inspiring-journeys/the-saturday-morning-woman-doorways-and-transformation/
|
en
|
The Saturday Morning Woman, Hobbit
|
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[
"Jamie Metz",
"Jamie Metz →"
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2021-03-30T00:25:15+00:00
|
When I think of the doorways now, and the small, feminine size doors, I think of women, connection, and an inner journey of rest, and the transformation that happens after the rest. Maybe the Saturday morning woman was resting, taking an inner journey, transforming, like the wine.
|
en
|
Jamie Metz
|
https://jamiemetz.com/inspiring-journeys/the-saturday-morning-woman-doorways-and-transformation/
|
This is an excerpt from the book, Boots: A thousand Miles on Foot and on Life, which will be published in the fall. I had just completed seventeen days on the Camino, averaging seventeen miles a day, and I’m worn and unsure about continuing. I edited the excerpt after leading a workshop on transformation, the heroine’s journey, and the divine feminine, inspired by the women who took the course.
Arriving in Moratinos, Spain
That night we arrived in Moratinos, a small Spanish town, and found a room for the night. Too worn to walk the next day, we weighed our options. Should we stay another night or hire a taxi? We decided to schedule a taxi to pick us up mid-morning and take us to Sahagun, a city eight miles away with a pharmacy. After that, we would decide what to do.
It would be our second taxi ride in almost 300 miles. In my mind, taking a taxi was a form of pilgrimage cheating. I wondered at what point we could still claim to be pilgrims. Who defines the expectations of doing enough or doing it right? I’d started to question the whole concept of cheating on the Camino, and if my need to do it “right” had distorted what would give me pleasure and be satisfying?
After arriving in Spain, I discovered I wanted something more, maybe different, from what the guide books suggested. Originally, I had built in two rest days, and on the second day of walking the Camino, I discovered I could walk in from France to Santiago de Compostela completing the pilgrimage, then walk on to the Atlantic Ocean. I wanted that. I wanted to walk across a country, from one side to another. To do that, required foregoing my rest days and now a taxi.
I felt an internal pull. I wanted to walk to the ocean. I also wanted to walk the entire Camino. But, if I followed my desire to walk to the ocean and started taking taxis, would I be able to consider myself a woman who had, in fact, walked the Camino? I wanted both but wasn’t sure I could have them.”?
The Saturday Morning Woman
The next morning, while waiting for our taxi, I approached a woman who sat alone drinking red wine at a table outside the albergue. She didn’t have a pack or boots but sat comfortably in a dress, her skirt draped over her knees, the hem on both sides resting on the ground. She leaned back relaxed on an all-weather chair. It didn’t look like she was gearing up for the day to make a well-planned, pre-predetermined number of miles by foot like the rest of the pilgrims. I attempted a conversation with her but she had very little interest in conversation.
Standing near her table in my boots and usual hiking attire, my back and poles left behind the restaurant bar for safekeeping, I asked, “Are you walking today?”
“I don’t know, maybe, probably not.” She took a sip of wine.
Huh… how could she not know? It was mid-morning!
“I just walk from albergue to albergue,” she continued. “I’ve walked all over Europe staying in hostels along other Camino routes. I don’t live anywhere really. Some days I walk, but a lot of days I don’t.”
Then she wasn’t a purist, not even a pilgrim. She wasn’t attempting to make it to Santiago, or to anywhere. She lived this way, alone, walking from place to place as she pleased. Was she entwined intimately with other people, woven into a fabric of a community or a family? It didn’t look like it. We were opposites attempting to see each other, or at least I wanted to see her. What did her seemingly unwoven, unconcerned about where she was going, comfortable alone, thoughts look like?
Her memory tugs at me from time to time. I see her with her early morning wine, sitting alone outside at a metal table shaded by a raised umbrella leaning back as if it’s Saturday morning and there’s nowhere to be. I think of my umbrella filled with too many places to be, so many people I love that I don’t know if I’ll ever have a great enough capacity to be who I want to be for them.
Upgrading my own thinking
I have a habit of putting too much under my umbrella and crashing along with a tendency of forcing myself to keep going, to keep putting in the miles, to be good enough, to belong, to participate. When I finally crumble, it’s not for a day, but sometimes for months. The last time was when I was teaching high school. Discouraged we weren’t doing a better job accessing the abilities of our students, I sat on state, county, and school committees. I taught a leadership program and Advanced Placement courses trying to change a system I couldn’t change and to be good enough to teach other people’s children.
Exhausted and sick, I walked away without a plan after thirteen years with back issues and a fibromyalgia diagnosis. After leaving teaching, I took a two-year break and rested. A couple of years later, I started my master’s degree in transpersonal psychology. I needed to prove, if only to myself, that we could do a better job tapping potential, but most of all I needed to upgrade my thinking and find a new way to move through the world that didn’t deplete me.
The Saturday Morning Woman, a woman without a plan for the day, even though the day was half over, looked at me dismissively and went back to her wine.
Hobbit-like Doors, Community, and Connection
I don’t need the school system or the world to be as perfect as I once did when I was teaching. In this journey, I’m practicing embracing the unknown, trusting more, and letting go of expectations of how something should be.
I left the Saturday Morning Woman to look at the hobbit-like houses across the street from our lodgings. Built into the base of a small, rounded mountain covered in green grass, the small, evenly spaced entrances surrounded the base of the hill. As I walked around and explored, I discovered each entryway was about the same size but different in style and design, some well kept while others looked tired and worn. Each entry had an alcove with a door that led into the mountain. Just like the entry, each door was unique, some colorful and others dull, but each one interesting.
Transformation and Rest
Since that day, I’ve thought a lot about the mountain and the circle of doorways entering into the safety of the earth. They turned out to be wine cellars, each one owned by a family of Moratinos. The doors connected generations and a community over time. When I think of the doorways now, and the small, feminine size doors, I think of women, connection, and an inner journey of rest, and the transformation that happens after the rest. Maybe the Saturday morning woman was resting, taking an inner journey, transforming, like the wine.
|
|||||
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https://galiwonders.com/en/blog/camino-de-santiago-movies/
|
en
|
Movies about the Camino de Santiago that will inspire you
|
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2023-04-17T15:45:08+00:00
|
Every great story is worth telling. A list of inspiring movies and stories about the Camino de Santiago.
|
en
|
Galiwonders
|
https://galiwonders.com/en/blog/camino-de-santiago-movies/
|
Every great story deserves to be told. And that of one of the most popular places of pilgrimage in the world, along with the Vatican or Jerusalem, could not be for less.
The Camino de Santiago is the main scenario of many films and cinematographic works. And no wonder, because hundreds of thousands of pilgrims walk this pilgrimage route every year. Alone, as a couple, with friends… each one with their own motives and a story to tell.
Cinema is an entertaining way to learn, discover and seek inspiration. So, if you are planning to do the Camino de Santiago; if your friends have told you about the route and you want to know more about it; if you want to know what is the Camino de Santiago; if you have already lived the Camino experience in your own flesh and want to relive it; you have come to the right place.
In this list of movies about the Camino de Santiago you will find films for all tastes. For those who are looking for inspiring stories. For adventurers and dreamers. For the romantics. Those looking for a few laughs. Or those who never get scared. Get the popcorn ready and make yourself comfortable on the couch.
The movie “The Way” is probably the most acclaimed and well-known adaptation by the viewers. This is not a surprising fact, since it stars Martin Sheen, a Hollywood film legend.
The film has managed to promote the pilgrimage among the American population and The Santiago Way all over the world. It was filmed in Spain, in real Camino scenery. The viewer will enjoy in first person the landscapes and villages of Spain and Galicia along the French Way. Roncesvalles, León or Muxía, among others.
Synopsis:
The protagonist of The Way is Tom Avery, played by acclaimed actor Martin Sheen, who is also the director’s father in real life. Tom is an ophthalmologist who receives the sad news of the death of his son while walking the Camino de Santiago. Immediately, this breaking news makes him embark on the journey that will change his life completely. The main character will travel the Camino de Santiago with the aim of resuming the pilgrimage his son could not finish. However, he will set out on a personal journey that will reflect and change his perspective on life.
Hailed as “deeply moving” (NOW Magazine) and “marvelous” (Globe and Mail), Strangers on the Earth explores the mental landscapes of the intrepid wayfarers who search for meaning on the paths of Europe’s most popular pilgrimage, the Camino de Santiago. One such pilgrim is Cleveland Orchestra cellist Dane Johansen, who ventures to walk the 600-mile route with his instrument on his back, performing Bach for his fellow travelers along the way. Strangers on the Earth examines the physical and spiritual aspects of the concept of ‘journey’ and the vital role it can play as part of the human experience.
At Galiwonders we had the opportunity to interviy Tristan Kook. The Director. There we go with it:
What led you to make “Strangers on the Earth”?
In 2012, a friend by the name of Dane Johansen told me about a fabled and ancient pilgrimage in Spain that he wanted to walk (1000km!) while carrying his cello, stopping along the way to play music for his fellow pilgrims.
This, of course, was the Camino de Santiago, and the film we went on to make, Strangers on the Earth, completely outgrew our initial concept of making a film about Dane’s journey: instead we focused on the journey of the universal pilgrim, of the hundreds of thousands of people who walk this path every year and have done so since the Middle Ages.
That exceptional energy that flows westward along the Camino was something we couldn’t ignore, and it drove the entire project forward as soon as we settled on telling this universal story, as opposed to a more limited story about a specific person.
There are different movies and documentaries about the Camino de Santiago, what is special about Strangers on the Earth?
In choosing not to highlight individuals in the film and to instead focus on what makes us all similar as pilgrims (who share in common joys, struggles and crises/catharses of spirit), Strangers on the Earth is a more experiential, meditative film that places the viewer inside the head of the universal pilgrim.
The film has no onscreen interviews, thus creating the effect of hearing an internal monologue while making the pilgrimage, just as if you were alone with your thoughts halfway through a day’s walk on the Camino. We also focus on the act of pilgrimage in the modern world, and how it has changed from what it once was, both physically and spiritually.
The story of Dane Johansen, is it a real story?
Every frame of Dane’s story in the film is real, from him carrying his cello from France to Finisterre, to the fact that he would play a concert almost every night for six weeks at the end of a long day of walking (and play beautifully from memory, no less).
It was very difficult for him at times to balance his musician’s role with his role as a pilgrim, and this is captured in the film. Some people ask why he would do this seemingly crazy venture, but when you hear the music in the film (the Cello Suites of Johann Sebastian Bach), you get the sense that he was motivated by sheer love of music and in particular this very special composer.
Was it difficult to film on the Camino? How long did it take to make the documentary?
In addition to the physical challenges (professional camera and sound equipment can weigh more than an average pilgrim’s backpack), shooting the film on the Camino was mostly a challenge of organization.
We always had one team on the path, consisting of a cinematographer, a camera assistant, and a sound person, while the rest of the crew would shuttle ahead to the next destination and record interviews with tired pilgrims or plan to shoot one of Dane’s concerts in an old church.
Keeping track of our accommodations, researching our fellow pilgrims (the old-fashioned way: talking to them!), keeping our gear clean and tidy, giving crew members staggered rest, and downloading and organizing footage were just some of the tasks we had to perform on a daily basis.
We shot on the Camino for six weeks, traveling from Roncesvalles to Finisterre. But just like the pilgrim’s journey that doesn’t end in Santiago, nor did our film’s journey end when we finished shooting: it took about 18 months to edit (we had 100+ hours of footage), not to mention the work that goes into bringing the film to festivals and our upcoming commercial release in the US, for which we are very excited.
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http://centrefortheaestheticrevolution.blogspot.com/2010/09/camino-real-mexico-city-used-to-be.html
|
en
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CENTRE FOR THE AESTHETIC REVOLUTION: CAMINO REAL MEXICO CITY, USED TO BE AN AMAZING HOTEL. TODAY IT DOESN'T HAVE THE CALDER SCULPTURE ANYMORE
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The 'sea' fountain at the entrance of Camino Real with Mathias Goeritz' pink sculptural wall in the background. Mathias Goeritz' se...
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https://www.linkedin.com/posts/jamiegripton_so-my-camino-de-santiago-has-come-to-an-end-activity-7205934292080766976-JZ4G
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Jamie Gripton on LinkedIn: So my Camino de Santiago has come to an end and I am back in the office…
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2024-06-10T14:10:15.001000+00:00
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So my Camino de Santiago has come to an end and I am back in the office. It was a great experience and I met some wonderful people along the way. although…
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A few years ago, I had the opportunity to hike part of the Camino de Santiago in northern Spain. I put on my hiking boots and joined hundreds of people from all walks of life on a transformative pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Carrying my gear on my back, I navigated through rain-soaked mud and sunny skies and let go of distractions, expectations and emails (I had a great team back then!)—just one step after another, guided by yellow arrows illuminating my way. Initially cautious, I marvelled at how these arrows effortlessly led me in the right direction without the help of maps on my phone. Yet, on the third day, my confidence led me astray. I lost sight of the yellow arrows, faced with the choice to turn back or press on. I chose to press on, ignoring the absence of the humble yellow arrows, and pulled out my phone. I soon found myself entangled in wire fences and thorn bushes on a remote farm. How did I get so far offtrack? After stumbling through the thorn bushes, climbing over the fence and hitchhiking to the nearest town, I eventually reunited with the Camino de Santiago, grateful for a shower and a good night's sleep. The following morning, I recommitted to staying on the path. Following the yellow arrows, I let my guard down and forged connections with fellow pilgrims. We shared company often in silence and inner reflections, supporting each other through the journey. When I returned to the real world after the Camino adventure, I found that moments of flow persisted in my daily life. Actions and decisions seamlessly aligned with my metaphorical yellow arrows or occasionally led me through thorny patches, taking a longer route. The yellow arrow remains a steadfast reminder for me to trust the process. As we step into the new year, I invite you to identify your yellow arrows. ➡ How do yellow arrows show up in your life? ➡ What happens when you follow them or disregard them? ➡ What are you learning about yourself? Embrace the lessons in your growth journey and discover gratitude along the way. 🌈✨ #selfdiscovery #caminodesantiago #adventure #gratitude
"Does it take that long???" 😱 A beautiful festival is held in Tarvisio every year on top of a mountain, where the borders between Italy, Austria and Slovenia meet, the 'Festa dell'Amicizia dei Tre Confini'. One year, I decided to go there with friends. I must say that I'm terrible at ascents, I have very little breath and resistance. It was supposed to be a not-too-difficult walk of about an hour on a well-marked road, but it turned out to be a 2-hour walk (+ 15 minutes for the mandatory breaks!) through the trees. I didn't even have the right trekking shoes 🤦♀️ But, exhausted lungs aside, I'm thankful that they didn't tell me at the beginning, otherwise I would have missed out on a great adventure, lots of laughs and a breathtaking view! I have the feeling that we have lost the patience that allows us to enjoy even the most difficult journeys, which are necessary to reveal our strength, and perhaps this stems from the speed at which the world is going now. In a few moments we can send and receive messages, in 2 days or less we can receive a package, in 15 minutes we get our lunch delivered at home. This also leads us to unconsciously relate to personal growth and achievement in the same way. We should learn to decouple the speed of today's technological world, from our inner growth and enjoy the journey, without thinking that if we don't get where we want to be in a short time, then we have made a mistake or failed 💚 Take care of the journey, not just the destination. #personalGrowth #slowJourney #enjoyTheProcess #thoughts
I recently went on a road trip. We were driving a bit over 500kms one way. As I haven’t done many of this distance, it felt like it is going to be a long drive. We started from Delhi, navigating through some very nice roads amidst relatively smooth traffic, rolling farms and occasional towns. It was a typical drive, yet it held the potential for unique discoveries. One such discovery was a road sign marked "AH001." Although I was vaguely familiar with the concept of the Asian Highway network, I had never delved into it before. Now that we were on the AH1, it piqued my interest. So I looked it up. What I found was incredible. The Asian Highway 1 is an extensive route, covering 20,557 kilometres. All the way from Tokyo via Korea, China, Southeast Asia, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, and Iran to the border between Turkey and Bulgaria west of Istanbul where it joins end-on with European route E80, running all the way to Lisbon, Portugal. The road hadn’t changed. But it was now a part of something larger. Something amazing. Just the awareness that if we kept driving on one direction we could reach Tokyo; Or a mere U turn could take us to Lisbon - imbued it with a sense of connection to a larger, more extraordinary narrative. It altered my experience of that drive ! This reflection on our road trip parallels the experience of working within an organization. Often, the daily grind can feel routine and disconnected from a larger purpose. However, when we consider our work in the context of the overarching goals and the impact it aims to achieve, our daily tasks gain new meaning. Understanding how our individual efforts contribute to a higher purpose elevates our work from mundane tasks to vital components of a grander vision - From a weekend drive to a small quaint town in the heart of UP; to cruising a part of a super highway that spans half of the earth’s circumference!!
🌄 El Camino Experience: A 7-day journey Beyond 200,000 Steps🌄 Walking the El Camino de Santiago was more than just a physical journey; it was a profound mental, emotional, and spiritual pilgrimage. 🌟 Each day presented new obstacles – navigating unknown paths, battling fatigue, and pushing past the constant urge to give up. But with every step, I learnt to embrace uncertainty and find strength in the unknown. 🧠✨ The solitude brought out deep emotions. I faced my fears and insecurities head-on. Yet, through moments of vulnerability, I discovered resilience and an inner peace I never knew existed. 💖 Sore muscles, and the weight of my backpack tested my endurance. But with determination and the support of fellow pilgrims, I realized that my body is capable of incredible feats. 💪🥾 The Camino wasn't just about reaching Santiago; it was about the transformation along the way. I learnt to be present, appreciate the beauty around me, and listen to my inner voice. 🌿🧘♂️ Meeting fellow pilgrims from all walks of life was one of the most enriching parts of the journey. Each person shared unique stories of hope, struggle, and triumph, teaching me invaluable lessons in empathy and compassion. 🌍❤️ This journey has reshaped my approach to life and work. I’ve learned the power of persistence, the importance of connection, and the value of embracing challenges. Moving forward, I’ll bring this newfound perspective into my work, fostering a culture of resilience, empathy, and mindful presence. 🌱💼 Walking the Camino has been a transformative experience, reminding me that every step, no matter how challenging, brings us closer to growth and understanding. To infinity and beyond! #ElCamino #JourneyWithin #Pilgrimage #MentalStrength #EmotionalGrowth #PhysicalEndurance #InnerPeace #LifeLessons #Transformation #BuenCamino
I am 2 months already into my masters degree in life. 🔙 2024 started as a very promising, uncertain yet exciting year for me. After years in the corporate world, I've decided to trade the comfort of my office chair for the saddle of a bike 🚵♂️. I've set out on a solo journey to explore the world, one pedal stroke at a time. 🤔Why this change, you ask? Don’t get me wrong. I loved my job. For me, it's about seeking personal growth beyond the confines of routine. The power of stepping outside our comfort zones takes us to discover new aspects of ourselves. Traveling solo on a bike is not just a physical journey; it's a path to self-discovery, resilience, and the mastery of new skills. 🌱 Personal Growth Through Exploration: The world is my classroom, people are my teachers and every road is a lesson waiting to be learned. From navigating unknown territories to connecting with diverse cultures, I'm eager to embrace the richness of this global classroom. 🚴 Skills on the Road: Solo biking demands adaptability, problem-solving, decision making and self-reliance. It's a crash course in resilience and resourcefulness. I'm excited to share the skills I pick up along the way and apply them to both personal and professional challenges. 🌎Exploring SouthAmerica Starting in Chilean Patagonia I am heading North to wherever the road takes me. Colombia? Mexico? US? Setting no limits. I'll let the road decide. 🏔️The destination The journey is the destination. I have no set routes nor deadlines. Just flowing. 📸 Documenting the Journey: I am documenting my adventures on instagram (@martasway), sharing the lessons the road is teaching me, breathtaking landscapes, and, of course, the occasional flat tire mishap. I hope you'll join me on this virtual expedition. 🙏 The project: I decided to cal this journey “Marta’s way” as I’ll be making my own way, taking my own decisions and choosing my path. According to all the pros and cons this might imply. Here's to new horizons, personal growth, and the thrill of the unknown! 🌟 #LifeChange #SoloTravel #PersonalGrowth #AdventureAwaits #MartasWay
🌊 Lessons from the Passage du Gois 🚘 🧠 ✨ We often encounter roads less traveled, much like the Passage du Gois in France. This unique route, connecting the Gulf of Burnëf to the island of Noirmoutier, offers a profound metaphor for seizing opportunities when they present themselves – even if they seem fleeting. 🌊 Imagine being granted just a few hours each day to traverse this path before it succumbs to the rising tide and is submerged to 13 ft. It’s a stark reminder of the importance of recognizing and capitalizing on opportunities when they are visible and within reach. In our careers and lives, similar windows of opportunity arise, demanding our attention and decisive action. 🚗 The stone-paved road, buried beneath the sea during high tide, symbolizes the obstacles and challenges we face – both expected and unforeseen. Yet, amidst the uncertainty, there lies a beacon of hope: the special side panels guiding drivers, enabling them to gauge the approaching wave and navigate safely. 💡 Likewise, in our pursuit of self-brand development, it’s crucial to stay attuned to signals of change and adapt accordingly. By embracing a mindset of vigilance and seizing opportunities in their prime, we can chart a course towards personal and professional fulfillment. “Remember that even in the face of adversity, there are moments of clarity and opportunity waiting to be seized.” -Devon J. Euring #DJEMotivates #SelfBrandDevelopment #Opportunity #Resilience #ProfessionalGrowth #PersonalDevelopment #SeizeTheMoment
Embarking on solo adventures has been one of the most rewarding experiences of my life. Traveling alone has allowed me to: 🔹Discover New Cultures: Immersing myself in diverse cultures has broadened my perspective and enriched my understanding of the world. 🔹Build Resilience: Navigating unfamiliar territories and overcoming challenges on my own has made me more adaptable and resilient. 🔹Meet Incredible People: Traveling solo has opened up countless opportunities to meet and connect with inspiring individuals from all walks of life. 🔹Grow Personally and Professionally: Each journey teaches me new skills and insights, contributing to both my personal growth and professional development. Traveling solo isn't just about seeing new places; it's about the journey within. Every trip pushes my boundaries and helps me discover more about myself. Here's to more adventures, more learning, and more growth! #SoloTraveler #PersonalGrowth #GlobalCitizen #AdventureAwaits
In 2015, my ex-wife and I embarked on a 4000 km bicycle journey from Lima to Buenos Aires with our 7-month-old daughter. Our goal was to meet different people and families and to learn from the journey. Personally, I also wanted to discover different perspectives of being a father. The journey filled me with fear; I knew it would require all my focus, creativity, resilience, and determination. Doubting would mean the end. So, before setting out, I sold everything that didn't fit on the bikes, closed my business, canceled the rental contract, and left no option to return to Lima. The only choice was to move forward until we reached our destination. And we made it. It wasn't as we expected, by far, hahaha. Many surprises, improvisations, not all the journey was by bicycle, but we reached our goal: to arrive and learn along the way. We were flexible, quickly learned from our mistakes, and stayed focused on the goal, adapting to the unpredictable. Goals are achieved through constant work, as very few things are accomplished overnight. The greatest goals require the greatest commitment. It is at this point that many people stop or give up, but perseverance always yields results. Know yourself, stay focused, find a supportive community, make a plan, commit, and succeed. #Resilience #FamilyTravel #GoalSetting #PersonalGrowth #Inspiration
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El Greco | Spanish Painter, Mannerist Artist & Sculptor
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1999-07-28T00:00:00+00:00
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El Greco was a master of Spanish painting, whose highly individual dramatic and expressionistic style met with the puzzlement of his contemporaries but gained newfound appreciation in the 20th century. He also worked as a sculptor and as an architect. El Greco never forgot that he was of Greek
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/favicon.png
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Encyclopedia Britannica
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https://www.britannica.com/biography/El-Greco
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Middle years
Britannica Quiz
Ultimate Art Quiz
El Greco first appeared in Spain in the spring of 1577, initially at Madrid, later in Toledo. One of his main reasons for seeking a new career in Spain must have been knowledge of Philip II’s great project, the building of the monastery of San Lorenzo at El Escorial, some 26 miles (42 km) northwest of Madrid. Moreover, the Greek must have met important Spanish churchmen in Rome through Fulvio Orsini, a humanist and librarian of the Palazzo Farnese. It is known that at least one Spanish ecclesiastic who spent some time in Rome at this period—Luis de Castilla—became El Greco’s intimate friend and was eventually named one of the two executors of his last testament. Luis’ brother, Diego de Castilla, gave El Greco his first commission in Spain, which possibly had been promised before the artist left Italy.
In 1578 Jorge Manuel, the painter’s only son, was born at Toledo, the offspring of Doña Jerónima de Las Cuevas. She appears to have outlived El Greco, and, although he acknowledged both her and his son, he never married her. That fact has puzzled all writers, because he mentioned her in various documents, including his last testament. It may be that El Greco had married unhappily in his youth in Crete or Italy and therefore could not legalize another attachment.
For the rest of his life El Greco continued to live in Toledo, busily engaged on commissions for the churches and monasteries there and in the province. He became a close friend of the leading humanists, scholars, and churchmen. Antonio de Covarrubias, a classical scholar and son of the architect Alonso de Covarrubias, was a friend whose portrait he painted. Fray Hortensio Paravicino, the head of the Trinitarian order in Spain and a favourite preacher of Philip II of Spain, dedicated four sonnets to El Greco, one of them recording his own portrait by the artist. Luis de Góngora y Argote, one of the major literary figures of the late 16th century, composed a sonnet to the tomb of the painter. Another writer, Don Pedro de Salazar de Mendoza, figured among the most intimate circle of El Greco’s entourage.
The inventories compiled after his death confirm the fact that he was a man of extraordinary culture—a true Renaissance humanist. His library, which gives some idea of the breadth and range of his interests, included works of the major Greek authors in Greek, numerous books in Latin, and others in Italian and in Spanish: Plutarch’s Lives, Petrarch’s poetry, Ludovico Ariosto’s Orlando Furioso, the Bible in Greek, the proceedings of the Council of Trent, and architectural treatises by Marcus Vitruvius Pollio, Giacomo da Vignola, Leon Battista Alberti, Andrea Palladio, and Sebastiano Serlio. El Greco himself prepared an edition of Vitruvius, accompanied by drawings, but the manuscript is lost.
In 1585 and thereafter El Greco lived in the large, late-medieval palace of the Marqués de Villena. Although it is near the site of the now-destroyed Villena Palace, the museum in Toledo called the Casa y Museo del Greco (“Home and Museum of El Greco”) was never his residence. It can be assumed that he needed space for his atelier more than for luxurious living. In 1605 the palace was listed by the historian Francisco de Pisa as one of the handsomest in the city; it was not a miserable ruined structure, as some romantic writers have presumed. El Greco surely lived in considerable comfort, even though he did not leave a large estate at his death.
El Greco’s first commission in Spain was for the high altar and the two lateral altars in the conventual church of Santo Domingo el Antiguo at Toledo (1577–79). Never before had the artist had a commission of such importance and scope. Even the architectural design of the altar frames, reminiscent of the style of the Venetian architect Palladio, was prepared by El Greco. The painting for the high altar, Assumption of the Virgin, also marked a new period in the artist’s life, revealing the full extent of his genius. The figures are brought close into the foreground, and in the Apostles a new brilliance of colour is achieved. The technique remains Venetian in the laying on of the paint and in the liberal use of white highlights; yet the intensity of the colours and the manipulation of contrasts, verging on dissonance, is distinctly El Greco. For the first time, the importance of his assimilation of the art of Michelangelo comes to the fore, particularly in the painting of the Trinity, in the upper part of the high altar, where the powerful sculpturesque body of the nude Christ leaves no doubt of the ultimate source of inspiration. In the lateral altar painting of the Resurrection, the poses of the standing soldiers and the contrapposto (a position in which the upper and lower parts of the body are contrasted in direction) of those asleep are also clearly Michelangelesque in inspiration.
At the same time, El Greco created another masterpiece of extraordinary originality—the Espolio (Disrobing of Christ). In designing the composition vertically and compactly in the foreground he seems to have been motivated by the desire to show the oppression of Christ by his cruel tormentors. He chose a method of space elimination that is common to middle and late 16th-century Italian painters known as Mannerists, and at the same time he probably recalled late Byzantine paintings in which the superposition of heads row upon row is employed to suggest a crowd. The original altar of gilded wood that El Greco designed for the painting has been destroyed, but his small sculptured group of the Miracle of St. Ildefonso still survives on the lower centre of the frame.
El Greco’s tendency to elongate the human figure becomes more notable at this time—for example, in the handsome and unrestored St. Sebastian. The same extreme elongation of body is also present in Michelangelo’s work, in the painting of the Venetians Tintoretto and Paolo Veronese, and in the art of the leading Mannerist painters. The increased slenderness of Christ’s long body against the dramatic clouds in Crucifixion with Donors foreshadows the artist’s late style.
El Greco’s connection with the court of Philip II was brief and unsuccessful, consisting first of the Allegory of the Holy League (Dream of Philip II; 1578–79) and second of the Martyrdom of St. Maurice (1580–82). The latter painting did not meet with the approval of the king, who promptly ordered another work of the same subject to replace it. Thus ended the great artist’s connection with the Spanish court. The king may have been troubled by the almost shocking brilliance of the yellows as contrasted to the ultramarine in the costumes of the main group of the painting, which includes St. Maurice in the centre. On the other hand, to the modern eye El Greco’s daring use of colour is particularly appealing. The brushwork remains Venetian in the way that the colour suggests form and in the free illusionistic and atmospheric creation of space.
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Movies about the Camino de Santiago that will inspire you
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2023-04-17T15:45:08+00:00
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Every great story is worth telling. A list of inspiring movies and stories about the Camino de Santiago.
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en
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Galiwonders
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https://galiwonders.com/en/blog/camino-de-santiago-movies/
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Every great story deserves to be told. And that of one of the most popular places of pilgrimage in the world, along with the Vatican or Jerusalem, could not be for less.
The Camino de Santiago is the main scenario of many films and cinematographic works. And no wonder, because hundreds of thousands of pilgrims walk this pilgrimage route every year. Alone, as a couple, with friends… each one with their own motives and a story to tell.
Cinema is an entertaining way to learn, discover and seek inspiration. So, if you are planning to do the Camino de Santiago; if your friends have told you about the route and you want to know more about it; if you want to know what is the Camino de Santiago; if you have already lived the Camino experience in your own flesh and want to relive it; you have come to the right place.
In this list of movies about the Camino de Santiago you will find films for all tastes. For those who are looking for inspiring stories. For adventurers and dreamers. For the romantics. Those looking for a few laughs. Or those who never get scared. Get the popcorn ready and make yourself comfortable on the couch.
The movie “The Way” is probably the most acclaimed and well-known adaptation by the viewers. This is not a surprising fact, since it stars Martin Sheen, a Hollywood film legend.
The film has managed to promote the pilgrimage among the American population and The Santiago Way all over the world. It was filmed in Spain, in real Camino scenery. The viewer will enjoy in first person the landscapes and villages of Spain and Galicia along the French Way. Roncesvalles, León or Muxía, among others.
Synopsis:
The protagonist of The Way is Tom Avery, played by acclaimed actor Martin Sheen, who is also the director’s father in real life. Tom is an ophthalmologist who receives the sad news of the death of his son while walking the Camino de Santiago. Immediately, this breaking news makes him embark on the journey that will change his life completely. The main character will travel the Camino de Santiago with the aim of resuming the pilgrimage his son could not finish. However, he will set out on a personal journey that will reflect and change his perspective on life.
Hailed as “deeply moving” (NOW Magazine) and “marvelous” (Globe and Mail), Strangers on the Earth explores the mental landscapes of the intrepid wayfarers who search for meaning on the paths of Europe’s most popular pilgrimage, the Camino de Santiago. One such pilgrim is Cleveland Orchestra cellist Dane Johansen, who ventures to walk the 600-mile route with his instrument on his back, performing Bach for his fellow travelers along the way. Strangers on the Earth examines the physical and spiritual aspects of the concept of ‘journey’ and the vital role it can play as part of the human experience.
At Galiwonders we had the opportunity to interviy Tristan Kook. The Director. There we go with it:
What led you to make “Strangers on the Earth”?
In 2012, a friend by the name of Dane Johansen told me about a fabled and ancient pilgrimage in Spain that he wanted to walk (1000km!) while carrying his cello, stopping along the way to play music for his fellow pilgrims.
This, of course, was the Camino de Santiago, and the film we went on to make, Strangers on the Earth, completely outgrew our initial concept of making a film about Dane’s journey: instead we focused on the journey of the universal pilgrim, of the hundreds of thousands of people who walk this path every year and have done so since the Middle Ages.
That exceptional energy that flows westward along the Camino was something we couldn’t ignore, and it drove the entire project forward as soon as we settled on telling this universal story, as opposed to a more limited story about a specific person.
There are different movies and documentaries about the Camino de Santiago, what is special about Strangers on the Earth?
In choosing not to highlight individuals in the film and to instead focus on what makes us all similar as pilgrims (who share in common joys, struggles and crises/catharses of spirit), Strangers on the Earth is a more experiential, meditative film that places the viewer inside the head of the universal pilgrim.
The film has no onscreen interviews, thus creating the effect of hearing an internal monologue while making the pilgrimage, just as if you were alone with your thoughts halfway through a day’s walk on the Camino. We also focus on the act of pilgrimage in the modern world, and how it has changed from what it once was, both physically and spiritually.
The story of Dane Johansen, is it a real story?
Every frame of Dane’s story in the film is real, from him carrying his cello from France to Finisterre, to the fact that he would play a concert almost every night for six weeks at the end of a long day of walking (and play beautifully from memory, no less).
It was very difficult for him at times to balance his musician’s role with his role as a pilgrim, and this is captured in the film. Some people ask why he would do this seemingly crazy venture, but when you hear the music in the film (the Cello Suites of Johann Sebastian Bach), you get the sense that he was motivated by sheer love of music and in particular this very special composer.
Was it difficult to film on the Camino? How long did it take to make the documentary?
In addition to the physical challenges (professional camera and sound equipment can weigh more than an average pilgrim’s backpack), shooting the film on the Camino was mostly a challenge of organization.
We always had one team on the path, consisting of a cinematographer, a camera assistant, and a sound person, while the rest of the crew would shuttle ahead to the next destination and record interviews with tired pilgrims or plan to shoot one of Dane’s concerts in an old church.
Keeping track of our accommodations, researching our fellow pilgrims (the old-fashioned way: talking to them!), keeping our gear clean and tidy, giving crew members staggered rest, and downloading and organizing footage were just some of the tasks we had to perform on a daily basis.
We shot on the Camino for six weeks, traveling from Roncesvalles to Finisterre. But just like the pilgrim’s journey that doesn’t end in Santiago, nor did our film’s journey end when we finished shooting: it took about 18 months to edit (we had 100+ hours of footage), not to mention the work that goes into bringing the film to festivals and our upcoming commercial release in the US, for which we are very excited.
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17422
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yago
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https://www.walkaboutfoundation.org/camino-de-santiago-2009-blog/
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en
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Walkabout Foundation - Mobility is Possibility
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2019-05-10T09:23:32+01:00
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en
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Walkabout Foundation - Mobility is Possibility |
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https://www.walkaboutfoundation.org/camino-de-santiago-2009-blog/
|
Day 1: Irun to San Sebastian
Wow, what a way to get thrown into the walk!! You’d think you’d be starting an 800 kilometer journey on a light note; instead, the Camino de Santiago throws you right into the thick of it.
We started the walk in Irun, a small Spanish town on the border between France and Spain. The Camino del Norte originated historically from a bridge in Irun called “el Puente de Santiago.” This bridge is what all walkers refer to as “point zero” and serves as a type of frontier line. Luis, my parents, my youngest brother Matias, and I all stood on the bridge for a family picture, gave each other our blessings and said our good byes, before we set off on our respective cycling and walking ways.
At exactly 2:15 pm Luis took off on his Freedom Ryder, a three-wheeled hand cycle, accompanied by my father on his own bicycle. My mother, Matias, and I began walking aimlessly. We knew we had to get to San Sebastian, but we didn’t have the slightest idea how to get there. Before we knew it we were on a highway and nearly getting run over by a hundred speeding cars.
As if a miracle from God, we bumped into two other “peregrinos” (the word used for those who walk the Camino of Santiago) who were also just beginning their own journey. They must have been in their forty’s, two Spanish friends, completely well equipped with walking canes and all, and they seemed to now exactly where they were going. It didn’t take long for my mom, Matias, and I to latch onto them.
We began following them down a road when all of a sudden the sky split in two and rain started pouring. But not just rain, heavy rain, massive rain, so much rain that it began to hail with chunks of ice falling from the sky. Wet, cold and scared, we found refuge under a small bus stop and used the idle time to get to know our new found friends.
When the hail subsided (even though the rain continued) we decided to continue walking. Unlike our friends who had ponchos and rain gear, we had nothing! Ok, I’m exaggerating, my mother and I each had a tiny wind breaker but poor Matias literally had NOTHING, nothing at all to shield himself from the storm.
Nevertheless, we walked and we entered the real Camino del Norte. Through farms, up hills, around cows and horses, we began our ascent on dirt covered roads, actually better said, mud covered roads. By the end of the first hour we were completely soaking wet but we had reached the Virgin of Guadaloupe’s little chapel at the top of an immense mountain.
At that point we bid farewell to our friends who stayed behind and we continued to follow the yellow arrows that mark the way of the Camino de Santiago. My mom and I managed to change our shirts but poor Matias had nothing to change into, so he remained walking with a soaking wet Walkabout t-shirt. The path took us by surprise as we faced nothing but climb, climb, climb for two hours straight.
With not a person in sight and no civilization around us, we walked high above the clouds in the mountain tops. Ocassionally, the sky would open up and bless us with the most beautiful view of the towns below, surrounded by both sea and rolling hills. But for the most part, the walk consisted of just the three of us, and our silence, our thoughts, and our spirituality.
At around 5 pm the trail began to descend and we finally started coming back down to sea level. We reached a small little fishing village called Pasado de San Juan where we ran into the first cafe we saw. Having not eaten anything since breakfast, we ravaged the cafe’s kitchen, ordering whatever was left at the end of the day’s menu. We stuffed our faces with typical Spanish tortilla de papa, pumpkin seeds and potato chips.
The Camino de Norte’s arrows pointed us in the direction of a little dock and at that point we ran into our two friends again. They informed us that we needed to take a little boat to the other side of the river when the Camino continues. We boarded a tiny little ferry with them, and 60 cents and 5 minutes later, we were on the other side of the river ascending into the mountains again.
The rest of the afternoon was full of fear, vertigo, and trepidation. The yellow arrows took the three of us up very steep and narrow paths along the cliff of the mountain. The scenery was spectacular! A view of 180 degree of endless sea was breathtakingly beautiful. But no more than 25 minutes later, the sky split in two again and it began to downpour. It rained so so hard that we were sopping wet, head to toe, socks, shoes, underwear and all!
The Camino continued to take us through the edge of the mountains, along the sea. There was not a soul in sight. You could have yelled at the top of your lungs and no one would have ever heard you. We pushed our way through and feared that it was getting late and getting dark. I lost my wind breaker and Matias was finally persuaded to wear one of my mother’s extra dry tank-tops that looked hysterically ridiculous on him!
An incredibly good sport, Mati turned out to be our guardian angel today. He saved us from growling dogs, motivated us to push a little bit harder, and guided us through the last bit forest when it got so dark we could barely see the step in front of us. We’re sad that tomorrow he’s leaving us to head to Morocco, but enthusiastically await his return!
At 9:15 pm, exactly 7 hours later, we touched foot in San Sebastian. Our father came to collect us as we layed sprawled out on the “rambla”, the beautiful pedestrian veranda that hugs the sea. After a very warm shower and a ham and cheese toastie, we called it a night after a very long but incredibly rewarding day.
Day 2: San Sebastian to Zarautz
Day 2 of the Camino de Santiago started off with two blisters and antibiotics. Due to my wet sneakers yesterday, I developed two small but mean blisters on my two big toes. I’ve also been trying to beat a bad cough and running nose for the last couple of days, so I finally decided it was time to start the antibiotic.
My mother and I began to walk at 1 pm because we spent the morning accidentally getting lost through the streets of San Sebastian as we looked for the place that gives the peregrinos the “credential” that you need to have stamped in every town in order to receive the famous “compostela” in Santiago. After learning that on Sunday everything is closed, we made our way back to the hotel, picked up our packs, and set off for our day’s adventure.
Unlike yesterday, it didn’t rain today and actually the weather was quite perfect. The day’s first climb was through a beautiful farm setting, where some cows grazed while others rang their neck-line bells near by. As we continued to walk we were blown away (both literally and metaphorically) by a group of cyclists that came speeding by us. Despite their hurry, each one of them turned around to say to us “buen camino,” in other words, good trip. As we later learned, those two words are the two most frequently used words in this entire area and is the most endearing way of saying hello between one peregrino and another.
The Camino began to take us away from the farm land and Cantabrain Sea and into the heart of the mountain. Through tiny weeded paths full of shrubs and rocks, the Camino not only became narrower and narrower, but steeper and steeper. Before we knew it we were in a grove of immensely tall trees, under their willowing branches and leaves. The grove resembled a rainforest, and in one little corner, near a tiny stream stood another peregrino drinking fresh water. We introduced ourselves to Adam, from Poland, and explained to him why we were walking the Camino. We gave him a Walkabout bracelet.
We walked with Adam for the next two hours, up and down treacherous hills. I find the descents much harder than the climbs. Coming down those steep slopes, hopping from one rock to the other, skipping from one patch of dry earth to another flat surface, shakes your body and shocks your knees in a way you are not used to. And that’s exactly what happened to me. Some how, some way, I hurt my left knee so that every other time we descended further down the mountain I was overburden with an excruciating pain.
As we reached a highway, we saw Adam further ahead talking to someone. We realized he was talking to Luis who happened to be cycling by at that exact same moment! What a coincidence, or as my mom said “an incident from God.” If Adam hadn’t crossed the highway at the exact moment Luis was rolling by so as to stop him and say “buen camino,” we would have never bumped into Luis. And off Luis went, riding into the wind on his Freedom Ryder, with his Argentine flag flapping behind!
In the town of Orio we bid farewell to Adam and my mom and I sat down for a late lunch. I needed the break, desperately, for my knee was getting worse and hurting more. After a meal of chicken and french fries, we continued down a path where we were frightened by a dog that was chasing cars. Shortly after we learned that the dog belonged to a nearby worker who introduced himself and his friend Jose Maria.
Jose Maria had been working in construction when a freight elevator fell on his back and left him paralyzed 30 years ago. We told him about Walkabout, gave him a bracelet, and offered our assistance in any way. His chair looked rusted and outdated, but nevertheless, he asked how HE could help Walkabout.
Limping, we managed to arrive in Zarautz where we arrived at our hotel and met up with Luis. Although we were all exhausted, we felt good, motivated, and accomplished. We decided since it was still relatively early, we would go back and have dinner in the old city of San Sebastian.
Over traditional Spanish tapas, Luis and I exchanged stories. He told me that today was harder than what he expected because the climbs were so steep that his front wheel was barely touching the ground and thus had very little traction. As a result, he had to push even harder and explained it to me as taking “two steps forward, one step back.” Nevertheless, he never got discouraged and continued to push, push, and push, until arriving in Zarautz.
Slightly revived but definitely ready for bed, after dinner we fell fast fast asleep.
Day 3: Zumaia to Markina
Without a doubt, the hero of the day is Luis. What he accomplished today is a feat that is so difficult for you and I to comprehend because we have never propelled ourselves up a mountain with only two arms on a bike that must weigh at least 40-50 pounds.
Although my mom and I started Day 3 in Zumaia, Luis started today’s journey in Zarautz, approximately 10 kilometers further out from our start point. We met up with Luis in Deba, a beautiful beach town on the Cantabrian coast full of Spaniards on their summer vacations.
After numerous climbs and hills, which all together amounted to more than 20 kilometers, Luis came rolling down the mountain and accompanied us to Deba’s Tourist Office where we were able to acquire the credentials needed to obtain the Compostela in Santiago.
After a stroll on the boardwalk, we decided to leave Deba together and walk in tandem for as long as the Camino would take us. My mom and I walked behind Luis who led the way to a beautiful bridge.
After crossing the bridge, together we began to ascend the first climb which is where I was able to witness first hand how difficult it is to push your entire body weight (plus the bike’s) with only the strength of your arms. Every strenuous rotation on the hand cycle is one effortless step for us, a step we don’t even blink or think twice about. And Luis continued to push, push, and push until finally he made it to the top, at which point he gleefully let the bike go, catching a rest and waving his arms in the air, like a roller coaster at an amusement park.
At the bottom of the hill, we bid farewell to Luis who was going to pick up his pace and accelerate ahead. Because it was getting late, nearly 5pm, my mom and I decided against the Camino’s path through the mountains and instead chose to follow Luis’ route through the two-lane highway.
We began to ascend, next to soaring cars and roaring trucks, and we stayed on that road for 3 hours. All I could think of was Luis and how far ahead he was. As I breathed in the sea air, basked my face in the evening sun, and walked one step at a time, I felt an overwhelming sense of pride.
I am beyond proud and honored to be Luis’ sister. He is a true testament of will power and endurance. He encourages my mother and I to push ourselves a little bit harder and walk a little bit longer. After cycling 50 kilometers (at an average speed of 10 kilometers per hour) in just one single day, Luis is living proof that whatever you put your mind to you can do. Luis, you truly are our hero!
Day 4: Markina to Guernika
What a long long day, endless actually. We woke up at 7 am and headed to the center of Markina to begin our day’s walk. But before embarking on our 26 kilometer journey, we decided to make a quick visit inside the local church. The quiet, peacefulness and serenity I experienced in just those two minutes, gave me an unexpected inner strength to proceed.
Today’s walk was really all about forests! Although the first hour was along a flat pasture that ran alongside a narrow creek, the remaining seven hours took place inside the mountains and inside the woods.
The first town we passed through was Iruzubieta and shortly after, we walked through the town of Bolivar. Upon seeing a sign for the Simon Bolivar Museum, we detoured from the Camino and decided to dedicate the next half hour to an educational lesson on the great South American liberator. The town of Bolivar is where Simon Bolivar’s ancestors came from, and the tiny museum serves as a homage to his personal and political career.
After our first killer climb, we began to descend upon an imposing structure that resembled an Italian Renaissance church. In closer view we noticed that the church was in fact a monastery, el Monasterio de Cenarruza. In the monastery we met two peregrinos who had just walked there from Deba and were being given refuge by the head priest. Several peregrinos opt to sleep in the monastery. We met the priest who kindly stamped our credential, certifying we had been there.
My mom and I had a quick lunch on a little bench under a large oak tree and then continued to climb. We spent the rest of the day walking through woods, what seemed like enchanted forests, where there was not a person in sight. The whole mountain was ours, or so it felt that way.
At one point the Camino deviated back onto a two-land highway and while walking there, we heard a loud honk which startled us. We looked up and saw Luis who was driving by in a car to set off on his day’s ride. What a coincidence again! We bid each other a “buen camino” and off we went.
At around 7 pm, exactly eight hours later, my mother and I hit the town of Guernika where Picasso painted his famous painting “Guernika.” We were exhausted, absolutely shattered, our legs felt like jello and I had developed a new blister. On top of it all, my mom began to feel ill and I had to run around the town looking for a pharmacy. When her situation didn’t improve a couple of hours later, we had to find a 24-hour doctor in town who would see her. Luckily, she saw the doctor who prescribed her some medication and she is quickly recovering and feeling better.
Luis too had an exhausting ride. When we met up in the evening he told me that the last 8 kilometers of his day was all climb and up hill. Although he said that at first he didn’t think he would finish the trajectory, he explained to my mom and I that finding your pace and your rhythm is key. Once he found that rhythm he was able to get “into the zone” and continue. This is cyclist-ville! There are hundreds and hundreds of cyclists all over the place and Luis told us that swarms of them would pass by him and cheer him on. “Animo, animo” (courage) as they say here!
Day 5: Guernika to Zamudio
Today was the most pleasant day thus far, at least in my opinion, although it was incredibly long, 28 kilometers.
We left Guernika very early and followed the Camino through the mountain. Given that my mom had not been feeling well the night before, we decided to take it easy and walk at a very slow leisurely pace. The Camino began to ascend and for the first hour and a half of the day we found ourselves walking through rocks, mud and branches.
As we progress each day we begin to familiarize ourselves with the Camino and learn its intricacies. As a peregrino, you unintentionally begin to personify the Camino and love or hate it depending on what it throws at you. My mother and I both agree that we prefer when the Camino takes us on paved roads rather than through mountain trails. Although the mountain trails are beautiful and put you in touch with nature, the up’s and down’s are difficult, hard on the knees, and much more demanding.
At around noon, my mom and I stopped at the top of the mountain and caught our breath. We had a snack (a piece of fruit) and enjoyed the 360 degree view. In the distance you could see rolling hills, farms full of cattle, goats, and sheep. We followed the yellow arrows and proceeded down the mountain. Our goal was to get to a small town called Larraetzu 22 kilometers from where we had started.
Under the blazing sun and in the tremendous heat, we exited the mountain and took the Camino down a two-lane asphalt road. We arrived in Larraetzu, a quaint charming little town where everything was closed. Between noon and 4 pm all commerce closes in Spain.
We sat down at the only opened “taverna” and ate the sandwiches we had in our backpacks. There was a couple sitting next to us who asked us where we were from. They told us they were from Larraetzu and owned the only newspaper shop in town, about 10 meters from where we were sitting. They lived above the shop and had been living there since birth. The woman’s grandmother had owned the shop, passed it down to her daughter, who in turn had passed it down to the lady sitting next to us. She expressed that she wanted her daughter to run it once she grew old. I couldn’t stop thinking about her life in that little town. In many ways, I long for her simplicity.
On our way into Zamudio we came across two other peregrinos that were taking a snooze under a tree. These were the only two other peregrinos we saw today. They told us they were going as far as Bilbao. After 28 kilometers, just the thought of walking another 11 kilometers exhausted me.
In Zamudio, we waited for Luis to arrive who came in like a champion. He continues to amaze us and inspire us. He rode 28 kilometers in the summer heat and never stopped for even one second. Although he said the first half of the trip was treacherous (all uphill), he said the latter half was pleasant as the highway offered him a wide shoulder to ride on.
We are so excited for our short trip to Bilbao tomorrow!
Day 6: Zamudio to Bilbao
Today was a very short walking day, only 11.3 kilometers. Again we woke up very early and departed the hotel by 8 am. We don’t sleep very much at night. Between one thing and another, washing our clothes and writing in our journal, we typically fall asleep around midnight.
The Camino immediately took us through the mountain. Our map indicated a climb, but we didn’t anticipate it to be as steep as it was. Luckily, it was cloudy so we didn’t have the scorching sun beaming on us, but the humidity was high. It took us just under two hours to ascend the mountain, and at the very top of Monte Avril, we had a 180 degree viewof the city of Bilbao.
Putting all our weight on our two knees, we slowly came down the mountain and entered the city. I can’t tell you how lucky I am that my knee is not hurting anymore. So much of this journey depends on the health and strength of your knees. I just pray to God that they don’t give out on me!
Once inside the city, the Camino took us by the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Begona and my mother and I decided to enter it. There happened to be a mass taking place so we sat in. We listedned to the priest’s eulogy who prayed that we all make a pact with ourselves to go one whole day without saying one bad thing about another. In different ways, the Camino of Santiago is always sending you messages of spirituality.
Although we had only walked 11.3 kilometers, by noon my legs were beginnging to feel like jello and my achilles tendon was in pain. Nevertheless, we got to the hotel, put our bags down and set off to visit the extraordinarly famous Guggenheim Museum. What an experience!
Just setting foot in the museum makes the stop in Bilbao worthwhile. The Picasso’s, Calder’s, Kadinsky’s and Cezanne’s are incredible. There was also a Richard Serra exhibit taking place and we enjoyed being able to participate in the installation and go through it.
We met up with Luis back at the hotel who told us he ended up riding 21 kilometers to get here! Somehow, somewhere, someone got lost. Nevertheless, you could immediately tell he was happy. He looked strong, he felt strong, and he said that the hard work from the previous days was “finally paying off dividends.” He recounted his day’s ride and told us that he was packed and ready to go by 1 pm when he noticed that his bike’s right rear tire was punctured. The problem was that to get it fixed he had to wait until 4pm when all the shops re-opened. So he did just that.
Luis situated himself on the hotel’s terrace and ordered some lunch while he waited for his bike to get fixed. At 5 pm he set off for Bilbao with a whole new tire! The first 7 kilometers of his ride were a severe climb, steeper than previous climbs he’s done. Despite having the bike in the easiest gear, he was averaging no more than 3 kilometers per hour. Once inside Bilbao, Luis reminisced that everyone would cheer him on, that pedestrians would stare in awe, and that people were fascinated by the unique bicycle.
Tomorrow will mark one week since we’ve been walking. We reflect on all that we’ve seen and traversed and cannot believe how far we’ve come but how much further we have to go. Yet every step we take is one step closer to finding a cure for paralysis thanks to your support.
Day 7: Bilbao to Zierbana
Bilbao woke us up with a cloudy day, cold and drizzling. We dressed accordingly, with long pants and sweatshirts, and stopped in a small cafe for breakfast. At around 9 am we resumed the Camino and began our day’s adventure.
The Camino took us through the outskirts of the city, through an industrial zone full of factories, cranes and garbage. Nevertheless, we walked alongside the Ria Bilbao and came across another peregrino who was travelling on his own. We introduced ourselves to Jordi and immediately turned him into a Walkabout ambassador. I think by the time we get to Santiago there will be more Walkabout logos along the Camino than sign posts for the actual trail. I’m feeling a little bit like Gretel, marking my path with Walkabout bracelets like she did with breadcrumbs.
Walking through Portugalete, we became better acquainted wit Jordi. He told us all about his life in Alicante and how he hoped to change jobs, which at the present entailed loading boxes of candy in and out of trucks. He thought the Camino de Santiago was not only the best place to meet people, but also the best way to “find himself” and figure out what he wanted from life. His perspective on the Camino made me reflect on my own reasons for undertaking such a challenge. I want to test my limits and my endurance, but most importantly I am here to build awareness for paralysis and raise funds for spinal cord injury research.
I’m not going to elaborate on the rest of the walk because quite frankly it was very monotonous and uneventful. My mother and I walked with Jordi down a paved pedestrian path for three hours straight, non-stop. The path was through a valley, surrounded by steep hillsides that were grazed by cows. I couldn’t help but stare at the cows and wonder how they don’t tip over. The Camino brings you in touch with nature and makes you appreciate the beauty of it in ways you have never done so before.
At around 2:30 pm after walking 26 kilometers, we reached the small town of Zierbana and stopped at its main attraction, Playa La Arena. My legs were numb, my back was soar, and my third blister (on my pinkie) had gotten much worse. Limping down the street, my mom and I bid farewell to Jordi and stepped into a restaurant for a much needed lunch.
I was in pain, massive pain, but I couldn’t help but feel excitement for Daniele’s visit. Walkabout’s first follower, he was set to land in Bilbao at 9 pm. After a short nap, I greeted him in the lobby with my camcorder in hand and filmed his visit. Since we’ve started, I have been documenting all major events, milestones, and landmarks on the trip. Although sometimes I wonder if video clips and journal entries can do the Camino justice.
The Camino is magical and mystical, inspiring and illuminating. The Camino is difficult and painful, rewarding and encouraging. The Camino is treacherous and strenuous, uplifting and invigorating. The Camino is all those things, and many many more.
Day 8: Zierbana to Cerdigo
Walkabout’s day 8 was an eventful day, primarily because we had a new addition to the group. Poor Daniele got thrown into the deep end, despite having no prior training and having arrived late the night before. Our walk commenced early in the morning from Zerbiana, and in typical Cantabrian fashion, a cold and cloudy day awaited us.
The first half an hour of the Camino was spent walking through Playa de La Arena. Although it was a beautiful setting and called for a breathtaking view, it was by no means ideal for a peregrino covered in blisters. By the time we reached el “Puente Azul,” my sneakers were full of sand and all the band-aids I had sealed around my toes were already beginning to wear off. Luckily, I had safety-kit in my backpack which was put to good use.
The first climb of the day entailed a flight of stairs with over 130 steps. Once at the top, the Camino took us along the sea, up and down rolling hills. My mother’s ankle was progressively getting worse and looked more swollen than the day before. In an effort to relieve her of weight and thus pain, Daniele decided to carry her backpack for the rest of the morning (one in front and one in back).
We followed the Camino along the national two-lane highway, the N-634, through the town of Onton. By mid-day we reached a small village called Miono, full of people, music, and food. It didn’t take long for us to learn that it was the annual village festival, and the locals were hosting a party in the town square. But the party was not just any party, it entailed a contest, a tortilla de papa competition. Each family worked hard for the first prize, vigorously cooking to make the most delicious tortilla. Fortunate for us, we were able to try difference pieces. I can’t tell you how much we savored each bite!
From Miono we walked to Castro Urdiales and by the time we reached the town our sandwiches were burning a hole in our backpacks. We stopped at a cute playground and silently ate our lunch while we let our feet rest. On a full stomach and with our legs having quickly gotten stiff, resuming our walk proved to be harder than we expected. Nonetheless, we decided to take a wide detour to see what was meant to be a picturesque town and to have our credential stamped. We were not disappointed. Although not particularly glamorous or architecturally beautiful, we loved seeing a bustling port and the church was definitely worth the extra time. Sightseeing done and credential stamped, we got back on our way, eager to complete the last 5 kilometers of the day.
The last stretch felt like a race to the meeting point where Pedro and Ines, good family friends of ours, were waiting to pick us up and take us to Pedro’s mother’s house where we were going to spend the next two nights. We arrived at the agreed-upon location and without fail Pedro, Ines, their daughter Silvia, and their adorable dog Dama were waiting for us. It felt like having a welcoming party at an airport after a long long journey home.
We arrived at the house, overjoyed about being in a warm home and having a home-cooked meal. By the time Luis arrived a couple of hours later we had enjoyed a nice shower, a great nap, and we felt much rejuvenated after 25 kilometers of walking!
We all met downstairs for dinner, completely famished! Three appetizers, two main courses, two bottles of wine, and several desserts later, we replenished our stomachs, felt full, fat and happy! Pedro’s mother is the most welcoming and generous person I have ever met, not to mention incredibly funny and energetic. She made us feel right at home right away.
Over dinner Luis shared some fun facts from his 50 kilometer ride! He felt good and strong and so went well beyond our daily target. And while on his ride, when running out of energy on a steep climb, a large group of hell’s angels, a motorcade of motorcyclists, passed him and cheered him on. Giving Luis motivation, he gained an extra push of strength and made it to Pedro’s mother’s home!
Oh home sweet home! We feel so close but are so far. Nevertheless, we are so grateful for the additional company (thanks to Daniele) and the warm and gracious hospitality (thanks to Pedro and his family)!
Day 9: Cerdigo to Santona
What a day, what an absolutely fabulous day! The best so far, or at least the most beautiful.
We woke up bright and early in Pedro’s mother’s house and had a full breakfast of eggs, cake, donuts, cheese, croissants, coffee and yogurt. My mother’s ankle was still not better, actually worse. It was swollen, inflamed, and she could barely stand on it. So we figured her best bet was to not walk today but stay resting in the house. In any case, I had Daniele and now Pedro, Walkabout’s third follower, to accompany me.
Pedro’s mother’s house is in Liendo and we had to drive 10 kilometers to Cerdigo, the town we finished in yesterday. At 9:35 am sharp, Pedro, Daniele and I were well on our way, walking through different towns and villages. We came down a hill only to find ourselves standing face to face with a lama. Two feet away stood a big black buffalo, and to our right a camel! The three of us stood staring at each other, attempting to decipher what on earth these animals were doing there! Around the corner we noticed a circus. Thank God because for a second I thought all the walking had gone to my head and I was imagining things.
We detoured away from the yellow arrows as Pedro took us along different little paths and routes. Walking with a Spaniard makes all the difference. But Pedro is not only a Spaniard, he’s a local! Having spent his childhood summers in Liendo, he knows this area of the country like the back of his hand. Thus, I didn’t have to look at a map or worry about getting lost. Instead, I could take in the surroundings and enjoy the scenery. For the first time in 10 days, I was able to take the back seat and follow someone else’s lead.
Walking in a single file line, Daniele and I marched behind Pedro who took us up a large mountain promising us the most beautiful view. And he was right! Indeed, from the top of the mountain we had a breathtaking 180 degree view of the Cantabrian sea and we could see, in the far far distance, where we had come from several days before.
We continued walking on empty stomachs until we found the perfect spot to sit down and have a rest. Along a cliff perched high up top, we found a flat patch of stone and set up our picnic. Among the three of us we shared several sandwiches and made sure to properly hydrate ourselves. It didn’t take long for two other peregrinos to find us and join in on our conversation. We learned they were two young boys from Germany and were walking the Camino for purely physical reasons and not because of any spiritual purpose.
As Pedro, Daniele, and I continued on our way, we got on the topic of religion. Pedro said something that I will not forget. He said that the “fuerza” (force/strength) you have to put into the Camino to walk it, opens up a fountain of spirituality unbeknownst to you at the time. I can assure you that the Camino slowly enlightens you with a whole new meaning of life. By the end of the 30 days, maybe the German peregrinos will have discovered something they didn’t even know they were looking for.
The last part of today’s walk was amidst the most beautiful setting I’ve seen thus far. The Camino took us along an incredibly narrow path along the cliff of a mountain and dropped us off on Laredo beach. I was amazed at how well Daniele and Pedro had done, how far they had walked, and how much they had endured without ever uttering a single complaint. They were true champions and I am eternally grateful for their support and companionship.
As the sun was setting on the beach, we took off our socks and shoes and spent the last 7 kilometers walking with our feet in the water. Out of a movie, it was the picture-perfect way to end a long day, walking into the horizon with the infinite sea beside us.
Day 10: Santona to Santander
Today marked 10 whole days since we started walking, we’re nearly one third of the way there. Fortunately my mother’s ankle is slightly better but not 100 percent so she decided to rest another day. Pedro agreed to walk another couple of days with us so luckily I had a companion.
We drove bright and early from Liendo to Santona, the town we finished in yesterday. Pedro had left his cane/walking stick there and to our amazement, he was able to find it in a nearby cafe. We set off on our 35 kilometer walk and our first stop was a prison! El Dueso, as it’s called, looked like a fairytale castle, absolutely gorgeous with an amazing view of the valley. Two worlds completely apart, I couldn’t help but think of my vast freedom versus the prison’s confinement. The Camino introduces you to new people, takes you to new places, and shows you a whole new perspective on life.
Walking with Pedro through the mountains we started philosophizing on life. We discussed that the Camino proves to you that you really don’t need much to live on, that you can do without the superfluous luxuries of life, and that with only a bare minimum of possessions you can still amount to great successes. While exchanging thoughts and ideas, we passed through the towns of Arnuero, San Miguel de Merulo, and Guemes always following the yellow arrows.
Around 2:00 pm the sun came out and began to heavily shine down on us. Hot and hungry, we stopped on a hill of wild grass and terrain and made ourselves at home. We laid down, took a ten minute power nap, and had our lunch, tortilla de papa! After regaining some strength and energy, we set off on the last 15 kilometers of our journey.
It’s fascinating how your body begins to adjust to exercise and physical training. The first few days were brutal and I was in excruciating pain. My muscles ached and every inch of my body hurt but I couldn’t stop and had to keep going. Today, it’s a whole new story. Although I feel fatigue, I no longer feel pain. My tendons have stretched, my muscles are strong, and I can go on for hours and hours.
Walking towards Somo we heard a whistle and saw Luis on his bicycle go speeding past us. Like a comet through space, Luis zoomed down the road and waved from behind. From the corner of my eye, I could see his smile and his muscular arms. Even though I am with him every day, I can actually see the difference in the size of his arms from the day we started to today. It’s astonishing how much bigger his biceps have gotten!
Luis and my mother (who was riding in Luis’ support car) waited for us in Somo where we re-joined as a group. While waiting, Luis circled around the town, over and over again, accumulating kilometers. When we arrived, we exchanged stories from our day’s adventures and heard that Luis had cycled 32 kilometers non-stop! Taking each climb in stride, he suffered from the heat and blazing sun but never gave up. Ever since Luis had his accident, his body lost the ability to sweat. Therefore, the heat becomes unbearable for him so every once in a while he slows down to throw a bottle of water over his head.
Luis continues to be our source of motivation and inspiration. Whenever the going gets tough, I think that if he can do this with only his arms, I sure can too! The last part of our day consisted of a ferry ride to the center of the city of Santander. Cruising on the Bahia with a view of the city directly in front of us, I felt a tremendous sense of accomplishment. I can’t believe we’ve come this far.
Day 11: Santander to Santillana del Mar
Today was the day of the peregrinos! We started our walk in Santa Cruz de Bezana, a little town right outside the urban nucleus of Santander. There, my mother (who’s ankle is much better) and I met up with Pedro and began our 35 kilometer journey.
Within the first 10 minutes of our walk, we met a group of peregrinos we hadn’t seen on the Camino before. We began to walk with them, in tandem, like children on a school field trip. Little by little, we got to know the different characters of today’s story.
One was an Argentine living in Chile, who had lost his passport in Barcelona and was stuck in Spain. He decided to walk to Santiago before dealing with the hassle of consulates and embassies. Another was a Polish young girl who had a 10-day vacation and was walking to see how far she could get. She was an opera singer, or so it sounded like it, who graced us with her beautiful voice throughout the morning. The third young guy, a 26 years old, was Polish, Ukrainian and Danish, but lived in Berlin. His name was Lucas and he had no plan, no timing, and no destination. Lucas was absolutely hilarious! I spent the whole morning listening to his stories and laughing hysterically.
We slowly lost the other peregrinos as each one stayed behind, one at a time. Lucas, however, decided to continue walking with us, keeping up with our fast pace. He told us that he was travelling alone, was absolutely shattered, and had walked nearly 40 kilometers that morning. Poor thing didn’t realize he had another 10 kilometers to go!
The Camino took us along paved roads throughout the entire day. At one point, the arrows pointed north, up a massively high mountain. We read in our book that if we detoured through the train tracks, we could not only avoid the climb, but also cut 6 kilometers! We didn’t even think twice about it.
Everything your parents have ever told you not to do, we did. We walked, ran, skipped, and jumped through the train tracks. Praying for my life, I held onto a metal pole as a train came speeding by. Feeling my hair and body get swept away by the gushing wind, I closed my eyes and counted the seconds for it to be all over. Once the train was gone, we ran as fast as our two legs could carry us.
To get to the town of Requejada, an industrial village full of chemical companies, we had to walk down an endless path surrounded on either side by two rusted metal pipes. The pipes seemed like they were infinite, like they extended into space forever, and ever. It must have taken us nearly 2 hours to walk the entire path, until fortunately we left that area behind and crossed a river.
The last 5 kilometers of the Camino took us back through farmland and rolling hills. We met up with four other peregrinos, another Argentine and three Spaniards. Two of them were a couple, and they had all started the Camino de Santiago that day in Santander. Boy oh boy, did they have a lot to go through! I can’t even imagine just starting to walk. We gave them all our tips and suggestions as to what to do and not do on the first few days.
The 45 kilometers we walked today were well worth the destination. Santillana del Mar is the most gorgeous little medieval town, as if it were out of a movie! I kept thinking it was the real Disney World, the real Altos de Chavon, the real Princess Bride and Robin Hood setting. Full of Cobble stone streets and castles, Santillana del Mar was a trip to the past. I’m so glad my mother was with me to be able to enjoy it together, although I missed Luis and longed for his presence. But with pride I remembered that Luis was only a few kilometers behind us, having cycled 25 kilometers in one afternoon.
Day 12: Santillana del Mar to Comillas
Magic is the only word capable of describing today’s adventure. Ines and Pedro organized for 15 of their Spanish friends to join us for the day and walk with us from our start point to our destination. I am utterly grateful for Ines and Pedro’s support and all their friends’ participation.
Ines had coordinated for all of us to meet in the Plaza Mayor of Santillana del Mar at 9:30 am where we initiated our 21 kilometer journey. My mother and I were introduced to all the new faces and were incredibly excited to get to know our new companions. We were also thrilled to welcome Ana and Guillermo to the group, old friends from our home town in Greenwich who happened to be in a nearby town on their summer vacation.
We began to ascend up the mountain, walking in small groups but nevertheless, all together. We looked like a heard of cows, or an army of ants, walking in procession. I stayed behind, towards the ed of the line, and got to know Lola and Marta who are good friends of Ines’ from Madrid and spend their summers in Comillas. Both of them came with their respective sons, Jaime and Alvaro, both 19 years old. The boys were joined by their friend Jorge and Bea, who is Ines’ daughter. Having a bunch of teenagers on the walk made it that much more fun and exciting!!
I was incredibly surprised by everyone’s agility and ability to walk so many kilometers in such tremendous heat. A not-so-typical day for Comillas, the sun was shining, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, and the temperature reached 33 degrees. Nevertheless, everyone kept up with our steady pace and never once complained (albeit with blisters, jeans, and not the most comfortable sneakers).
Around 2 pm, after walking nearly 5 hours straight, all 18 of us perched ourselves on a hilltop and had a small lunch. We lost two friends, but gained an extra two, who joined us for our picnic. We each brought our own sandwich but exchanged extra’s and leftovers. It was like a carousel of food going round and round in circles!
With our “pilas recargadas” (batteries recharged), we gained strength to push through the last 5 kilometers. We detoured away from the yellow arrows and decided to follow a different path that one of our local friends recommended instead. The unmarked path took us directly along the coast, parallel to the water, with the most amazing view of the Cantabrian sea. Pointing out different houses and sharing each family’s different story, Ines’ friends made us feel like we were part of their community. My mother and I felt right at home.
When we finally reached the town of Comillas around 5 pm, an unexpected surprise awaited us. Ines’ friend Sonia had organized a banquet of food in her home. The tortilla de papa, croquetas, and pastries were devoured, and we were all blow away by her beautiful house located right in the center of town.
I dreaded bidding farewell to my new friends because I longed for time to stand still and hold that moment of today forever. Walking with 18 people made the whole experience truly magical. There are few words that can describe what it was like to see Walkabout’s following. To compare it to Forrest Gump and his followers is a valid analogy, of course on a much smaller scale.
Back at the hotel we waited outside for Luis to arrive from his 25 kilometer ride. As he came speeding in, I managed to get my camcorder out just in time and film his grand arrival! He told us that on his last climb, just when he was about to give up, a car drove by and the people inside yelled “animo Luis, fuerza Luis!!” He didn’t recognize who they were, but was pleasantly surprised to have total strangers cheer him on. It turns out it was some of Ines’ friends, Walkabout’s new friends, that gave Luis the strength he needed to carry on.
Day 13: Comillas to Unquera
When people tell you that the Camino de Santiago is just as much a mental challenge as it is a physical one, they hit the nail on the head. This really is a mind game, one that you are constantly trying to battle and figure out how to win.
Today was a spectacular day, not only because of the views, but also because of the company. My mother and I were joined by Ana, Guillermo, Ines, Pedro and Sylvia (Ines’ daughter), and last but not least, Dama (Ines and Pedro’s dog). We all met at a rotunda in the center of Comillas at 9:30 am and began our 27 kilometer walk.
It’s funny how the Camino turns your world upside down and reverses your perspective on life and everyday occurrences. While you typically long for sun during the summer, during the Camino you pray for clouds. I guess my praying didn’t amount to much because it was bright and sunny all day.
During the first half of the walk, we ignored our map and yellow arrows, and instead followed Guillermo’s lead along the coast. Ana has been coming to Comillas ever since she was a child so her and Guillermo know the surroundings like the back of their hand. They suggested we detour from the Camino and walk along the coast instead, which provided a breeze and much better views. They were right! The trail was spectacular, along beaches, cliffs, and protected wildlife.
At around 1 pm we arrived at the small fishing town of San Vicente de la Barquera and although we didn’t have time to go visit it, I could tell from afar that it was an incredibly charming little place. With a fort, church, and tons of little colorful boats, the town reminded me of a scene out of one of Ernest Hemingway’s maritime stories. In San Vicente we said good bye to Ines, Sylvia and Dama who, after walking 10 kilometers (and yesterday’s 22), called it a day.
The Camino pushed Guillermo, Ana, Pedro, my mom, and I up our first climb, which wouldn’t have seemed so bad if it weren’t for the blazing sun. Panting, we reached the top of the mountain where we decided to have lunch on a small terrace/playground peering onto a small church. Lunch was delicious, thanks to Ana’s sandwiches de milanesa!
Our lunch was interrupted by a photographer from the local newspaper La Alterta, who had been sent to photograph us for a story on Walkabout which was said to come out over the weekend. He took some pictures of my mother and I with our fellow peregrinos and we couldn’t help but laugh at how ridiculous the shots were, some of us sitting on a ledge, others of us standing beside an arrow.
On full stomachs we set off walking again, with Guillermo and I leading the pack. We talked about the mental strain the Camino puts on you and he reiterated to me that it’s a long 30-days and best to take it one day at a time. He also mentioned something that I’ve heard before but will never forget, “that life is about the journey and not the destination.” For some reason, probably given the idyllic setting, those words reverberated in my head over and over again.
By late afternoon we found ourselves in the middle of the forest in the middle of a mountain, stranded with no exit other than to continue to climb. We knew we were getting close to Unquera but we were all shattered, hot, and exhausted. Pedro kept sighing out loud, moaning and claiming that it’s best to release physical pain verbally. If it helps him, to each his own!
The way down the mountain was the hardest part of the day. We came across a mud pond and I stupidly stuck my foot in it and got soaked! With a wet, dirty, and muddy foot I had to make my way down the vertical slope! The worst part was my mom and her bad ankle. Luckily, we had Guillermo who appeared like an angel from God and helped her down the slippery rocks (with her walking sticks) one step at a time.
If you had tried to write a better ending to this day, you wouldn’t have succeeded given the sequence of events that occurred. When we finally entered the town of Unquera (and the province of Asturias) around 6 pm, we sat down as a group to have some cider at a local cafe. All of a sudden, the whole town stopped to look at Luis that came speeding by. With his Argentine flag flapping in the wind and his muscular arms peddling back and forth, we all hollered and cheered him on as he went. He turned back around and joined us for a coffee, eager and excited to see Ana and Guillermo’s old faces. What a coincidence that he had finished his ride nearly at the exact same time as us, it was perfect timing! Or as my mother would say, “maybe it was an incidence from God.
Day 14: Unquera to Llanes
Good morning sunshine, good morning Asturias, and good morning to all the friends of The Walkabout Foundation!
Today is the 14th day of our journey. My mother and I woke up very early as usual, around 7 am, eager to complete one more stage of the Camino but sad to have left behind all of our friends and fellow peregrinos. One of the amazing things that the Camino gives you is the special bond you develop with the people you meet along the way. These people can be both old friends or new. It doesn’t matter because at the end of the day, it’s an experience that you share that binds you together.
Having initiated our journey in Unquera, at around 10 am we arrived in Colombres, a town famous for its Indian architecture that came about during the Asturian emigration to the Americas in the 19th and 20th centuries. We were able to absorb this Spanish/Indian culture by visiting el Archivo de Indianos, an incredible and beautiful museum dedicated to this given period.
Shortly there after, the Camino took us from the small quaint town of Colombres to a busy and loud highway. On “la Ruta Nacional-634,” we found ourselves walking for hours and hours on endless pavement. The cars, the heat, the smog, and not to mention the suction we felt every time a big truck passed us by, made this stage of the Camino not only frightening but quite unbearable.
How could we talk, how could my mom and I communicate? Impossible! For hours and hours we were immersed in our own thoughts and watching each other’s backs, while crossing the towns of La Franca, Buelna, Pendueles, Vidiago, and San Roque. At 4 pm, we stopped in San Roque, in a camping ground, and caught our breath eating a big bowl of pasta carbonara. The temperature must have been around 40 degrees and given that we were so tired, a plate of spaghetti and a big “cafe con leche” felt like the last coca-cola in the desert. Try getting up from a lunch after 6 hours straight of walking. I think it must have been San Santiago that gave us another push to continue.
By now you don’t even think about walking anymore. Your brain automatically moves your legs and in a robotic fashion, you propel forward. We are immune to signs and distances however endless the Camino seems. A few more kilometers and we finally arrived in Llanes! We went straight to the hotel where Luis was already waiting for us. Although tired, we dropped off our backpacks and followed Luis who was going for a ride in the center of town. In town, we bumped into Rosana (our cousins’ cousin) who is truly an angel that God sent our way. She had made a huge banner with The Walkabout Foundation’s logo on it and was waiting for us in town with her two daughters, Ana and Amelia.
The five of us kept an eye out for Luis to pass by on his bicycle. When he finally did, we all ran into the middle of the street with the Walkabout banner and cheered him on as he sped by. We took Llanes by storm! Luis continued to explore the town, in and out, and every stone and corner. Unfortunately, during his ride, he got a flat tire but luckily we had Rosana to help us. She immediately notified us of the closest cycling shop and we got his wheel fixed!
What an exhausting but rewarding day. Tomorrow marks two weeks since we’ve started walking, reaching our mid-point of 400 kilometres!!
Day 15: Llanes to Ribadesella
Today was real a test of stamina and endurance, a perfect example of the mind game you have to play to succeed at the Camino. After walking 29 kilometers yesterday, my mother and I had to muster the energy to walk another 30 today under the blazing sun and in the 40 degree heat.
CaroMonicaDay15Rosana and her husband Jose Carlos are two saviors (and saints) and washed all our dirty laundry last night. We swung by their house early this morning to pick up our clean clothes and walked with the two of them for the first 4 kilometers of our day. They took us along the most beautiful path, right on the coast, where we were able to photograph more of the “Mar Cantabrico” and experience 180 degree views of endless sea.
I don’t have words to express to you just how hot it was today. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and I could feel the sun pulsating down on me, on my back and shoulders especially. But not only was it hot, it was also humid. You could tell it was going to rain because the air felt heavy.
By mid-day my mom and I arrived at a beautiful lake with an incredibly serene and peaceful church sitting on an island. “The Iglesia de los Dolores,” between the towns of Barro and Niembro, invited us to pause for a moment and reflect on our journey, on the last two weeks, and on our mission. We’re here to build awareness for paralysis and disabilities, and thanks to all the friends of The Walkabout Foundation, we’re here to fund research that seeks to find a cure for spinal cord injuries.
Our serious thoughts and reflections were sharply contrasted with the comical scene that awaited us once we turned the corner. The Camino took us right smack through the middle of “Playa de San Antolin,” through people sun bathing, women in their bikini’s, men in speedo’s, and kids building castles. We looked so ridiculously out of place, my mom and I, trekking through the sand with our big backpacks and hiking gear.
Across the beach, we arrived in a small town named Naves where we had lunch at a placed called Casa Raul, a small restaurant that opened in 1950. Raul himself was there, probably around 90 years old, sitting quietly watching the people come in and out.
On full stomachs, we continued walking down a narrow path through the forest. Our book says that this path is known as the “camino medieval,” the exact route that the old pilgrims used to take decades and decades ago to get to Santiago de Compostela. With not a person in site, we stopped along the way at a little chapel, a tiny little chapel no more than two feet high, to say a prayer. The little chapel was home to a statue of the Virgin Mary who held a plaque that said “no pasen sin rezar” (don’t pass by without praying). My mom and I both kneeled down, and for a minute the Camino felt like it was ours and only ours, the world felt like it had halted, and every worry we had disappeared.
As we walked a little bit further we came across a hill full of grazing cows. We marched through the cows, face to face with them, until arriving at a small church perched at the top of the hill full of peregrinos. We descended from the hill only to find ourselves alone again on a completely desolate trail. Out of nowhere, a stray dog leaped from the bushes and blocked our way. Shocked, speechless, and shaking my mom and I stood still. We’ve encountered dogs all along the Camino, but never without a leash. We panicked and turned around.
We had no choice but to keep going, the yellow arrows pointed down that path so we had to swallow our fear and overcome our trepidation. Thank God we had our walking sticks because a second dog appeared out of nowhere as well! We ran until we reached a stretch of farmland, where again there was not a person in site. Civilization seemed so far away until we heard gun shots. Bullets began to fire through the air, don’t ask us why or how, but we heard one shot after the other.
Eight hours and 31 kilometers later, wet from the rain, we arrived at our destination in Ribadesella. We met up with Luis at our hotel who was about to go out on his afternoon ride. He had been waiting for the sun to cool down.
My mom and I watched him get on his bike and adjust himself. He was pumped, eager, and ready to conquer the day! By 9 pm he was back at the hotel, feeling strong, after having ridden 25 kilometers!
Today, we’ve been walking and riding for 2 weeks straights without stopping. We’ve ditched the knee brace, the ankle wounds, and the muscular sores. We’re committed to the end, all the way!
Day 16: Ribadesella to Villaviciosa
Today marks the point of no return! We’ve been walking for two weeks straight and we have exactly another two weeks to go. There’s no turning back now.
I guess all my prayers for clouds paid off! We woke up to an ugly grey day and dressed accordingly, leggings, sweaters, and ponchos. I am so burnt from yesterday’s scorching sun that a day like today is very much appreciated.
We initiated our walk in the town of Ribadesella and the Camino immediately took us to the beach. Despite being cloudy and very early in the morning, there were people swimming and sun bathing. What is most amusing about this part of Spain is the way people take advantage of the beach despite the consistently bad weather. Rain or shine, you see every family heading there every morning with their bath mats, towels, and umbrellas.
We walked down the boardwalk and followed the yellow arrows into the heart of farmland. On the Camino, we came across two couples with their kids who introduced themselves to us. They were from Madrid but what’s a funny coincidence is that one of the men was wearing a t-shirt that said “Casa de Campo, Dominican Republic.” What are the chances on such a desolate trail, in the middle of the countryside in northern Spain?!
By 2 pm we had arrived at Playa de la Espasa, a wide long beach with hundreds of Spaniards on it. For the first time in 16 days, my mom and I sat down to have a proper lunch. After eating sandwiches on-the-go for the last two weeks straight, we devoured (and savored) a plate of meatballs and salad at a restaurant on the beach. The Camino provides you with a whole new appreciation of life’s little things. Not only do you learn not to take anything for granted, but you also learn to appreciate a good meal, a warm shower, a symphony of cow bells, a call from a friend, a walking stick, the smell of eucalyptus trees, compeed, clouds, and another peregrino on your trail. I could go on and on, the list could be endless.
When we arrived at the town of La Isla, our book said to look for a sign with two “conchas” (shells, ie the symbolic emblem of the Camino de Santiago), and take a left at the sign following the Camino through a dirt road. My mom and I got completely lost, but to our surprise, sent like angels from God, Lucas and Marisa (our two peregrino friends) appeared out of no where! We hadn’t seen them in several days and as if they knew where they were going, they found our way through bushes, weeds, and very tall grass.
Lucas and Marisa were headed to sleep in Sebrayo, while my mom and I were set to meet Luis at the hotel in a town called Villaviciosa. We parted ways with our friends and took a highway for the following 9 kilometers. It was never ending and painful, both physically and mentally. However, around the corner we met 3 cyclists whose bicycles were covered in flags. Intrigued, we stopped them in the middle of the road and found out that they were French and had been riding for over a year and a half straight across all of Europe. They were inspiring and motivating. They had traveled from Russia, to Scandanavia, Italy, Spain and all around.
30 kilometers and over 8 hours later we arrived at our destination. Luis told us about his magnificent ride, how he cycled 20 kilometers from a town called Cangas de Onis to Ribadesella. Once in Ribadesella, he rode for another 20 kilometers around the beach town and surrounding villages.
Luis told me that in Ribadesella he met a man who stopped him. The man was riding down the veranda in his electric wheelchair and told Luis he had had a car accident 24 years ago. Luis was taken aback by his kindness, his gentleness, and his welcoming and friendly demeanor. Wasting no time, Luis told him all about The Walkabout Foundation and they exchanged emails.
Later that night, I spoke to my dad on the phone who asked me about our journey. I told him everything, including that Luis had ridden over 40 kilometers. He concluded the conversation by saying that Luis is a “genio y un idolo.” Without a doubt, he truly is our genius and idol.
Day 17: Villaviciosa to Pola de Siero
Although I pray for clouds each day, I have to admit that I don’t pray for rain. We woke up today to a thunder storm. By 8 am we were on the road, trying to find our way out of the city of Villaviciosa, in our ponchos.
Rain poses several problems for a peregrino on the Camino. For starters, you get soaking wet because no poncho that is light enough for you to carry is strong enough to ward off water. Secondly, your shoes have no protection therefore causing your socks and feet to get wet which is a perfect recipe for blisters. Third of all, you can’t find your way given that you can barely see two feet in front of you.
All of these things happened to us, and more! We initiated the Camino by a small “ermita” (chapel) where there were two yellow arrows pointing in opposite directions. One arrow pointed towards the city of Gijon, while the other one pointed towards Oviedo. Because there was so much fog, my mother and I nearly headed in the wrong direction which would have put us 30 kilometers out of the way.
What shocked us was how quiet the towns were given that it was Monday. There was no traffic, no movement, not a person on the streets. We felt like we were walking through ghost towns, like we were in the middle of a scene from the movie “The Pianist” where there’s only one person left standing in this world.
We walked quietly, my mom and I, in single file line until we reached The Monastery of San Salvador de Valdedios. Like the towns we had passed to get there, the monastery was empty too and extraordinarily quiet. I was eager to meet a monk or see 17_Day17Foto2a priest but unfortunately, there was not one in site. We visited the “albergue” (room) where peregrinos are allowed to stay and met three who were shielding themselves from the rain. The two girls, Clementine, were from France and the young guy was from Cadiz, Spain. All three of them said they were walking the Camino to “find something,” whatever that something may be.
My mom and I spent the rest of the morning hiking up a mountain. I think it’s the highest and longest climb we’ve had thus far. But to make matters more excruciating, the fog was so unbearable at such a high altitude that we could not see more than a foot in front of us. We had no choice but to ascend, and so we did, at a very slow pace.
Our only saving grace was the little friend we met along the way. Before initiating the climb, a tiny stray black dog began to follow us. He trailed behind us the entire way up the mountain, and every time we stopped to catch our breath, he paused too! Having him as our companion gave us a sense of security. Despite his diminutive size, we felt safe beside him.
At the top of the treacherous mountain we arrived at the town of Campo de Alto where there was nothing more than a gas station and small restaurant. We decided to avoid our sandwich lunch again, and instead treated ourselves to two fried eggs each! So gourmet!
By 3 pm we arrived at La Vega de Sariego, our destination. But seeing as it was still relatively early and we didn’t feel too tired, we decided to continue. On the “Caretera Asturiana” we walked for another 10 kilometers, working our way to a town called Pola de Siero. In the middle of the highway, to our surprise, we bumped into my father, my youngest brother Matias, our family friend Esteban, and his son Matias, that were driving to meet us. My mother and I couldn’t have been happier to see more Walkabout followers!
Matias, my brother, decided to walk with my mom and I for the last 5 kilometers while my father, Esteban, and the other Matias went by car to find Luis. They found Luis in mid-Camino and watched him finish his 26 kilometers!
“Caminante no hay camino se hace el camino al andar y al volver la vista atrás veras los pasos que nunca más volverás a pisar, caminante no hay camino sino estelas en el mar…..”
Day 18: Pola de Siero to Oviedo
We began our day in Pola de Siero with our new Walkabout followers, Matias and Matias! My mom and I were ecstatic to have companions after so many days of walking alone. After some morning stretches in the “Plaza del Ayuntamiento,” we took off on our relatively short 20 kilometer journey.
The Camino was kind enough to divert us away from the “Caretera Asturiana” and instead took us along a path beside the highway. The four of us walked together, skipping, singing, and laughing, while the sun scorched down on us. By mid-day the temperature had risen to 35 degrees celsius and we were dying! Rationing our bottles of water, we made sure not to get dehydrated. We took care of each other and kept an eye on our sunburns.
The Camino does not spare you of anything. It throws you into any given situation and expects you to easily handle yourself and your surroundings. Around a corner, we came across loud sounds, people yelling and crying. As we approached the noise we realized we were at the back entrance of a psychiatric hospital. We didn’t want to intrude on the patients’ space but the Camino brought us face-to-face with them. Once again, the Camino made us think about our lives, our family, our homes, and just how blessed we are.
We continued walking, over the train tracks, and came in touch with yet another harsh reality. In makeshift tents and trailers, there was a whole family of kids, mothers, sisters, brothers, and grandparents, running around in the dirt and garbage. They were a gypsy family and sought refuge out of odds and ends from our everyday lives: tires, bed sheets, torn wrapping paper, broken glass, etc. I stood there thinking how many unnecessary things we live with, how much excess we have, how many possessions we own that we could do without, and how we ought to give back.
With that thought in mind, we reached Oviedo just before 3 pm. We were thrilled to welcome another Walkabout follower, my brother Diego who flew in from Connecticut. We were all completely famished so we went to a small little cafe on a “peatonal” street where no car traffic is allowed. I crave salads these days, especially fresh vegetables. I was lucky to find the best salad nicoise in town!
Shortly after, my phone rang and I received a call from a local newspaper that had heard about Walkabout through our friend Rosana. The reporter, Maria, told me that she was very much interested in writing a story about Luis and the family on the Camino de Santiago for the “Nueva Espana,” the most circulated newspaper in Asturias.
Wasting no time, Maria came to meet the family in Oviedo’s main park, “Parque San Francisco.” Luis was riding around on his bicycle and Maria was able to capture him in action! We posed as a family and gave a short interview. We look forward to reading the article on Thursday.
As we were leaving the park, I noticed a young guy in a Quickie wheelchair. He was with a young girl and what looked like his parents. I approached him, introduced myself, and told him all about Walkabout. His name is Robert and he was with his girlfriend, aunt and uncle. He had a car accident 9 years ago that left him paralyzed from the waist down. Instantaneously we became friends, all of us and all of them. We stayed chatting on the sidewalk for about an hour.
It was the perfect way to end the day. In Oviedo, the whole family together, with our old friends Esteban and Matias, and our new found friends, the sun setting, the temperature cooling, and all of us feeling a deep sense of accomplishment. Thanks to your support, every step we take is one step closer to finding the cure for paralysis.
Day 19: Oviedo to Grado
This morning we found ourselves in the middle of the city of Oviedo, surrounded by parks, bell towers, churches, and a small bronze statue of Woody Allen. As he once said “Oviedo es una ciudad deliciosa, exotica, bella, limpia, agradable, tranquila y peatonalizada, es como si no perteneciera a este mundo, como si no existiera…Oviedo es como un cuento de hadas.” I couldn’t agree with Woody more, indeed Oviedo is like a fairytale.
The Camino took us through the city’s main street, which led to the central train station and put us face-to-face with an enormous hanging clock. The time was 11 am, a very unusual and late start for my mom and I. But given that we had two teenagers (jet lagged) with us, it was to be expected!
We zigzagged through the city to find our way out to the mountain. Right before initiating our first climb, we met two other peregrinos getting ready to kick-off their journey. They were father and son, Antonio and Juan from Barcelona, who had just arrived by bus to Oviedo to begin the Camino de Santiago. Juan was 13 years old and had been begging his father all year to take him on the Camino. He told me that he wanted to meet people, make friends, and that he had heard that the physical pain one endures while walking has “recompensas” (rewards). I was in awe of his maturity and how eloquently he expressed himself given his young age. He amazed me further when he ascended the steep mountain with a huge grin on his face.
On the other side of the spectrum, my mom, Matias Reynal, Matias my brother, and I were panting, breathing heavily, and seriously struggling to climb. Luckily, we had each other to lean on and to call on for support. My mom and I would take turns staying behind to accompany our newcomers. Instances such as these prove to us and show us that are bodies have adapted, changed, and grown stronger after 19 days of walking.
We found the absolute perfect place to have lunch, actually better than anything we could have actively looked for. On a small hill perched in the middle of the valley, right next to a tiny little chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Fatima, we ate our sandwiches and let the wind blow in our faces. We appreciated the cool breeze after walking for 3 hours under the scorching sun. Another day of heat, humidity, and sunburns!
Around 5 pm, we reached an intersection where we coincidentally came across Luis’ support car. We knew Luis was only a couple steps behind so we decided to pause there and wait for him. We eagerly anticipated his arrival and when he sped past us, we hollered and cheered him on, “animo Luis, animo!!”
The last part of our walk seemed like it was never-ending. But then again, the last kilometer or two ALWAYS seem endless. We walked between corn stalks and tomato crops with not a person in site until we reached a train station with a big sign that read Day19Foto3″Grado.” Finally, after 27 kilometers, the two Matias’, my mother and I had reached our destination. I have to say that I was very impressed with both Matias’ stamina and endurance. They kept up incredibly well even though the second day is notoriously the hardest.
We met up with Luis, my father, and Esteban in Grado’s “Plaza del Ayuntamiento” (town square). We heard from Luis just how challenging today was, primarily because of the heat. Every few meters, Luis had to stop in the middle of the road to throw water on himself. And many times, my father and Esteban would ride by and empty their own bottles of water on him. The issue is that because Luis’ bike is so low to the ground, more heat radiates towards him and the sizzling asphalt becomes unbearable.
But the heat wasn’t the only hurdle Luis had to overcome. He had to ascend up the same treacherous mountains we climbed with only his arms. Never losing site of his goal and destination, he pushed and pushed his way through, withstanding the physical pain and agony, and arrived like a true champion at the finish line. Seeing Luis’ smile in Grado made our long difficult day so incredibly worthwhile.
Only 325 kilometers left to go…
Day 20: Grado to Salas
I have to be honest and say that today was not an easy day for me. I woke up tired, very tired. When I got up from bed and planted my two feet on the ground, I felt an ache quiver up my legs and run through the entire length of my body. I guess walking 30 kilometers for 20 days straight has finally taken a toll on me.
Day20Foto1After a chaotic morning of packing, over sleeping, sibling arguments, and a visit to the doctor (poor Diego has an ear infection), my mom and I finally made it on our way. Our book said 18 kilometers, but when we reached our starting point in Grado, we came across a large sign that illustrated the day’s itinerary and marked 23 kilometers to the town of Salas.
Before embarking on our journey, we stopped in a small “tabaqueria” and bought a copy of today’s “Nueva Espana.” Seeing as it is the province of Asturia’s most popular newspaper, the news agent had sold out of additional copies. We turned the pages and were blown away to see an entire page, in color, dedicated to Walkabout. The article titled “A Compostela Sobre Tres Ruedas” (To Compostela on Three Wheels) talked about Luis, his stamina, his family’s support, and the foundation’s mission. There was a huge picture of our family at the top, and smaller pictures of Luis, my mother, and I at the bottom.
We started to walk and luckily, we had the weather in our favor. As a matter of fact, it was cool out, actually quite cold. However, we weren’t prepared for the drop in temperature. After yesterday, we expected a similar situation of excruciating heat. But given that we bid farewell to the Cantabrian coast and have now entered the interior of Spain, the altitude here is much higher. We are now walking what’s called the “Camino Primitivo” (otherwise known as the Original Way) which takes us through the mountains straight into Santiago.
We didn’t even stop for lunch today. Instead, my mom and I ate our sandwiches as we walked. It was so late in the afternoon that we didn’t see any peregrines. They must have been all fast asleep in the “albergues” (hostels).
The last stretch of our walk took us up a steep incline on the highway. It’s funny how one’s thoughts and opinions change over the course of the Camino. At first, back in early August, I longed for asphalt, paved roads, and highways. Today, I couldn’t love more the dirt paths through the mountains and nature trails.
7 pm we arrived at the entrance of the town of Salas and a sign there caught my attention. I took out my camcorder and began filming what it said, “todo por la patria” (everything for the country), when a police officer sprung out of no where and scolded me for filming the police station. He demanded a form of identification and when I told him we were peregrinos and we didn’t have our passports with us (they were in Luis’ support car), he insisted that we give him something to prove who we were or we were going to have to face severe consequences. I immediately remembered the “Nueva Espana” we had bought that was folded in my backpack and I whipped it out to show it to him. Let’s just say he didn’t utter a word after that, he excused himself, and walked away.
What awaited us moments later in la Plaza del Ayuntamiento was priceless. My mom and I arrived at the exact same time as Luis, my father, and Esteban who had come by bicycle. We stood in front of the main church, “La Iglesia de San Martin” that was built in the 15 century, and the whole town cheered us on. I couldn’t understand why all the commotion, until one man came over and asked to have a photograph taken with Luis. All of Salas had read the article in the newspaper and knew exactly who we were!
Luis, my dad, and Esteban were famished and exhausted after riding up hill for kilometers and kilometers. What’s amazing is the pace at which Luis rides and is able to keep up with my father and Esteban. I am honored to be Luis’ sister. I couldn’t be more proud. Seeing the way people admire him and cheer him on gives me goose bumps. There are no words to describe the positive impression that Luis has left on every town we have visited throughout the Camino de Santiago. It is evident that he is not only an inspiration to my family but also, to all the people he meets along the way.
Day 21: Salas to Tineo
What a fun-filled day thanks to my younger brothers Diego and Matias! We had an early wake-up call, a family breakfast, and took off before 10 am.
The day started off cloudy, cold, and straight up a mountain. What a way to throw Diego into the thick of it, not to mention he’s on antibiotics. We worked our way to the top, through the fog, only to find ourselves at the foot of another ascent. We climbed up a mound of sand, through a construction zone. Everywhere we looked we saw bulldozers and cranes, not your typical view during the Camino. But we got out of there quickly and arrived at a small town called La Espina.
What’s peculiar about the Camino is that it forces you to always look down at the trail. Because there are so many rocks and the ground is so uneven, your eyes are glued to your feet. One wrong step, and you can twist or break your ankle. However, the irony is that if you fail to pay attention to the yellow arrows, you can get seriously lost. On trees, houses, and posts, the yellow arrows guide you and orient you in the right direction. Therefore, the Camino expects you to look up and down simultaneously.
In the town of La Espina, my mom and I took advantage of a local bar’s washroom. Matias and Diego decided to go ahead without us. When we resumed the Camino on a dirt road, we heard someone whistling on the Day21Foto2highway below us. To our surprise, it was Diego! He had somehow lost Matias, missed the yellow arrow, and gone the wrong way. While we waited for him to catch up to us my mom panicked about Matias. It had been a while since we last saw him and he wasn’t answering his phone.
We walked and walked until we reached a clearing in the Camino. The most picture-perfect sight, there were two benches on either side of a fountain that read “agua potable” (drinking water). A small statue of Saint Santiago presided over the fountain, and Matias was lying on one of the benches with his feet kicked up and sound asleep.
We felt bad waking him up because he looked so incredibly at peace, but the sun was blazing sun and heat was rising and we had to keep going. We met up with Dani at that point, a peregrino from Madrid, who came to the fountain to fill his bottle of water. We started talking about our backgrounds and he told us that several years back he had a near fatal car accident that left him with 150 stitches on his face, a hole through his cheek, and no fingers on one hand. Ever since then, he walks the Camino every year and explained to my brothers that the Camino is not a sprint but a marathon. Hence, it is meant to be taken slowly.
We walked with Dani the remainder of the day. 26 kilometers and 7 hours later, we reached our destination in the town of Tineo. We sat down in front of the “Ayuntamiento” (town hall) and watched Luis arrive in heroic fashion.
Flanked on either side by my dad and Esteban, Luis thanked his “wing men” and said he owed a lot of today’s success to them. He said that every few minutes they would pour water on him as they rode by and explained that they never failed to give him support when he needed it most: at the end of a 9 kilometer climb. Shouting “animo” and “vamos,” my dad and Esteban helped to pushed Luis through to the finish line.
We ended the day with a group picture in Tineo’s main square. Looking now at the snapshot, I can’t help but think that a picture is indeed a thousand words. Our smiles say it all, a sense of happiness, satisfaction, pride, and accomplishment.
10 days left and less than 300 kilometers to go…
Day 22: Tineo to Pola de Allende
A small plaque on the Camino read “el encanto y la magia nos siguen transformando.” I stared at it and thought about its meaning, over and over again. Although it didn’t specify exactly what it was referring to, it was obvious that “the enchantment and the magic [that] continues to transform us” is in reference to the Camino.
We began our day in the center of Tineo with Walkabout’s newest follower, our cousin Maria Luz who flew in all the way from Sudan. Diego, Matias, my mom, Maria Luz, and I begun our ascent out of the city and into the heart of the mountain. A small cottage made of stone immediately greeted us with several hand painted signs all around. In front of the door it said “aqui vive el ultimo de Filipinas” (the last person from the Philippines lives here). Somewhat comical, the little cottage served a purpose. It was meant to stop the peregrino on his way and force him to catch his breath.
We continued through one of the most beautiful settings I have ever seen. The Camino took us through a path that looked like an orchard, covered by a natural ceiling of intertwined branches and leaves. We appreciated the shield from the sun as we faced yet another day of unbearable heat.
We arrived at an intersection that signaled two opposite directions. To the left marked “Camino” and to the right “Monasterio.” At that very moment, we coincidentally came across Dani, fellow peregrino, who suggested we follow him to meet our other peregrino friends at the monastery. We agreed to go with him, despite it being an uphill detour.
Sitting on the front lawn of the “Monasterio de Obona” were over 10 peregrinos taking a break. Most of them we already knew but there was a group of 4 cyclists that we hadn’t met before. Hugo, the youngest of the bunch, was cycling the Camino with his father and told us that they were heading to Lugo, a few cities before Santiago. Unfortunately, he explained, there are not enough vacation days in the year!
While all the peregrinos rested, one little girl exhausted her energy by running around in circles. Luna, a 4 year old german shepherd, belongs to Giusep, a newcomer to the Camino. Giusep is from Barcelona and initiated his journey in Oviedo with his dog who he has brought along for company. He carries 5 kilos of Luna’s food on him and over the course of 4 days, has managed to shrink the weight down to 2 kilos.
Not long after, we all resumed the Camino together, walking down the hill in small groups. In pairs of 2 or bunches of 4, we conversed, chatted about our respective journeys, and passed the time getting to know one another. Before we knew it we had reached the town Campiello, a perfect location to stop for lunch.
At a local bar, Diego, Matias, Maria Luz, my mom, and I congregated around a small table and devoured our sandwiches. We looked after Diego’s blister (a mean one on the back of his heel) and then continued on our way. It was incredibly entertaining to Day22Foto2have Diego and Mati walk with us. We spent the rest of the afternoon laughing and singing out loud. Even though Diego’s legs hurt (Day 2 is always the worst), he made it to Pola de Allende like a true champion.
Upon reaching our destination, we collapsed on a bench and waited for Luis to arrive. When his support car drove by the main square an hour later, we all sprung to our feet and got our cameras ready in hand. As Luis approached us, we started clicking away, and all of us, mom, Diego, Mati, Maria Luz and I, ran into the street screaming and cheering him on.
Another day has passed and Luis has accomplished yet another tremendous feat. I wish I could be a fly on his shoulder and watch him propel his entire body weight up these treacherous mountains with only his arms. But what I admire most, more than anything else, is seeing Luis’ determination, focus, and eternal stamina.
Day 23: Pola de Allande to La Mesa
We begun our trek where we left off yesterday, in front of the “Ayuntamiento” in Pola de Allande with two less Walkabout followers, Diego and Mati, who flew back to the US this morning. We’re sad to see them go but we are grateful for the moments we spent together, bonding on the Camino. The experiences we shared undoubtedly brought us closer as siblings.
It goes without saying that my mom, Maria Luz, and I had another day of sizzling sun and scorching heat. Not to mention that the Camino completely deceived us. At first, it took us through a valley, on flat terrain, along a brook, and under trees. We were made to believe we were in for an easy ride, so we took our time and leisurely walked. Our surroundings reminded me of the story I read as a child, “A Little House on a Prairie,” with nothing more than the sound of a babbling brook and the silence of rolling hills.
All of a sudden, we turned the corner, and the yellow arrows pointed in the direction of a steep ascent. With no end in sight, we began to pace ourselves, climbing the mountain one small step at a time. It felt like an eternity, like never-ending torture. Our legs ached, our muscles hurt, we were short of breath. After ascending for over an hour, we reached a clearing near the top of the mountain where we could see the “carretera” on the opposite side of the valley. As we sat down for lunch on the grass, I couldn’t help but look at Luis’ trail, his Camino, and ponder how on earth someone can climb up such a steep mountain with only their arms.
We continued up the last stretch of the mountain and reached an abandoned fountain where we came across our peregrino friend Giusep and his dog Luna. Giusep was trying to hydrate Luna with rain water that had accumulated in the fountain’s basin. He had gotten stuck in the mountain over night with nothing to drink and no civilization in sight for over 18 kilometers. We gave him some of our bottled water and walked with him and his dog the rest of the day.
Upon reaching the town of Lago, my mom, Maria Luz, Giusep, Luna, and I sat down in front of a small little chapel for a much needed break. We talked about life, family, friends, jobs, hobbies etc., as Giusep told us he was in the middle of a financial and marriage crisis and hoped the Camino would “aclarar” (clarify) his situation. We continued the conversation as we walked to the next town, Berducedo. There, we bid farewell to our friend who was staying at the “albergue,” and followed the yellow arrows for another 5 kilometers to La Mesa.
It’s hard to classify La Mesa as a town because it’s really nothing more than 3 houses and another “albergue.” Nestled deep in the valley, it is surrounded on either side by wind farms perched at the top of the opposite mountains. It’s one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited, not only because of the geography but also because of the serenity of the place. It exudes a sense of quietness and peacefulness. It felt like entering a bubble where you are shielded from the rest of the world.
We chatted with the cyclist peregrinos we met yesterday while waiting for Luis to arrive, but at 9 pm we still had no word from him or my father. The sun was setting and we were cold from sitting outside so my mom, Maria Luz and I decided to walk back to Berducedo. A crazy idea but at least this way we could warm up!
At 10 pm, in the dark, rain, and fog, Luis came peddling into Berducedo with my father and Esteban behind him! We ran into the street to applaud him and quickly gave him a dry change of clothes. They had cycled the last 5 kilometers in the rain and were soaking wet! We ordered Luis a hot chocolate at a local bar, where he began to talk about his day’s adventure.
He told us that he thought that today’s climb was harder than riding the New York Marathon. After all, the ascent lasted more than 12 kilometers! Luis works hard to find his “pace” throughout his ride, and it’s not until he enters that zone that he finds himself perfectly at ease. He explained it took him a while to find it today and it only happened after he poured an entire bottle of freezing brook water over his head.
I asked Luis what he thinks about when he rides. He immediately answered “girls” and said that girls are a source of motivation for most guys. Although I’m sure many guys wouldn’t admit it, I appreciate Luis’ honesty and don’t doubt that he’s right. He did mention as well that today’s ride, at the top of the mountains, made him feel like he was in an airplane above the clouds. That sensation was pure religion and spirituality as he put it.
Luis makes you believe. He makes you believe in something, in a force, in a power, and in yourself. If he can work his way up that “carretera,” that Camino I saw today, with the strength of his arms only, then you and I can (and should) believe that anything in life is indeed possible. Luis is a living testament that you can accomplish anything you want, anything you put your mind to.
Day 24: La Mesa to Grandas de Salime
Yesterday, my father and Esteban were cycling through Tineo and Pola de Allande when they stopped in front of a house in a small town called San Facundo so that my father could adjust his bicycle’s seat. On the second floor balcony of the house sat two ladies who were mother and daughter, 86 and 61 years old respectively. They called down to my father and Esteban and asked if they could get the cyclists something to drink.
My father gladly accepted a glass of cold water but did not want to disturb the ladies and told them not to worry about coming down. Placeres (the daughter) immediately responded by saying that exercise is good for the body and soul and proceeded to come down to the street with cold drinks. When my father told her that this was the third time he and Esteban rode this “etapa” (stage) between Tineo and Pola, Placeres mentioned that yesterday she saw something that left her incredibly emotional.
She explained that she saw a young man in front of her house who briefly stopped to throw water on himself in an effort to cool down. Placeres said that the young individual was on a tricycle, propelled only by the strength of his arms. She and her mother, Adela, were so fascinated by the cyclist that they brought out their binoculars and stared at him as he rode off. Placeres said that never once, not in all the years of watching peregrinos go by, had she or her mother witnessed the courage demonstrated by that young man as he carried his weight (and his bicycle’s weight) with only two arms. Placeres concluded by saying she had stayed up thinking about the boy all night.
At that moment, my father told her that the boy was his son and explained to her that Luis was riding the Camino from Irun to Santiago, over 800 kilometers, with his sister and mother. When my father gave Placeres a copy of the “Nueva Espana,” the local newspaper that Luis and the family were featured in, she broke down. In tears, she explained that she could relate to the pain a parent feels when something happens to your child because a few years ago she lost her 28 year old son to Leukemia. In a span of 3 years, she lost her son, husband, and father.
This morning, my mom, Maria Luz and I had a car drive us to San Facundo before we set off on our walk. Not only did we want to meet Placeres and Adela, but we also knew that a visit to their house would brighten their day. When we arrived and introduced ourselves, Placeres started to cry and invited us into her house for morning coffee.
The few moments we spent with Placeres and Adela allowed us to put things into perspective again and reminded us why it is we are here and exerting ourselves so much. The love these two ladies exude towards their family (their children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren whose photographs were on display in every last corner of the house) is a parallel love I have for my brother and my parents have for their son. Placeres and Adela gave us a fountain of energy to proceed.
We started off on a brutal climb, walking at a very fast pace because we had left so late. The most beautiful view I have seen thus far awaited us at the top of the ascent: 360 degrees of mountain peaks with the Rio Navia below. What goes up, must come down. The Camino began to descend and descend, taking us through a winding forest.
The Camino today was completely desolate. Not a person, noise, car, or airplane in sight, we felt like we had reached the end of the world. An ideal setting for reflection and introspection, we arrived at the mouth of the Rio Navia that reminded me of a scene out of the movie “Last of the Mohicans.”
In order to advance, we had to cross the river dam, which housed a power plant fueled by water. The vertigo sensation of looking down at the river below proved to be unbearable, and was only augmented as the Camino ascended for the last 5 kilometers. I practically walked the rest of the day with my eyes closed.
We reached Grandas de Salime at 5 pm and waited for Luis, my dad and Esteban to arrive. Two hours later, it started to rain and pour, when we heard a honk from Luis’ support car. The whole town turned around to look at him, and we all applauded his valiant efforts. Soaking wet, the only thing Luis wanted was a hot chocolate. 26 kilometers later, the whole family was together again.
The Camino is about receiving and giving. It’s about reciprocating the love, encouragement, support, beauty, accomplishment, bonds, and friendships that the journey gives you. Our visit to Placeres and Adela’s house today taught us just that.
Day 25: Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada
We started our day at the Church of San Salvador in Grandas de Salime, where we met up with all our peregrino friends. We decided to walk together as a group, in tandem, with Dani leading the way. I spent the morning getting to know Raquel and Miguel, two peregrinos from the outskirts of Barcelona, who I had actually met a couple of days back but did not have the opportunity to talk to. Miguel told me that he had walked the Camino a few times before and that he does so as a means of escaping from his job. He works as an accountant for a mental hospital.
The Camino immediately took us on the highway, which proved to be somewhat of a disaster. There were construction workers all around re-paving the roads, and we were clearly out of place. However, there was no other way to go and we had no other choice but to trek amongst the trucks and along the newly paved asphalt. Not only was the smell nauseating, but the heat radiating from the ground was unbearable.
When I woke up this morning and looked out the window, it seemed as though it was going to rain. I dressed accordingly with leggings, a fleece, a windbreaker, and poncho. To my chagrin, the clouds disappeared and the sun came out, compounding the heat from the asphalt. Sweating, panting, and gasping for air, we barely made it alive to a small town called Castro.
At Castro, we bid farewell to our friends who wanted to stay behind for a beer (Spaniards drink beer at all times of the day, including breakfast!), and my mom, Maria Luz and I continued on our way. Walking through the forest, I made a special note to take advantage of the foliage, knowing that in less than a week’s time I will be far removed from such wilderness. I let it all absorb me, the fern, pine, oak trees, the eucalyptus groves, and the vivid green grass. I felt as though my surroundings were alive and breathing, as if nature were split into different colored auras pulsating at me.
Exactly half way through the day, we stopped at the only restaurant 10 kilometers in sight. Although on the highway, it was a perfect refuge. We were happy to give our legs a rest after walking for 4 hours straight. We were sitting outside when all of a sudden, Esteban came cycling by! He said he was riding fast to try to catch up with my father who was a couple of meters ahead. What a coincidence to have bumped into him!
Maria Luz, my mom, and I quickly nourished our bodies with our ham and cheese sandwiches and ordered a “cafe con leche.” Feeling replenished, we were ready for our one last push.
We arrived in the town of A Fonsagrada before 6 pm and took advantage of our “early” arrival to rest, relax, and wash our clothes.I still can’t believe that we have been walking all day, every day, for 25 days in a row. Because the Camino is so strenuous, difficult, and long, you are not left with much time or desire to do anything else in the day. At the hotel, we waited anxiously for Luis, my dad, and Esteban to arrive and started to panic when they still were not back after 9 pm.
At 9:30 pm they walked in through the hotel door. You could instantly tell Luis was exhausted. When we asked him about his ride, he said that hands down, today was the hardest stage of the trip. Unlike the ride from Pola de Allanda to La Mesa, which consisted of long but leveled climbs, today was all about shorter but steeper climbs. Luis, my father, and Esteban encountered some ascents with inclines of nearly 10 percent. Not to mention that the ride lasted over 4 hours, an eternity for Luis!
The best part of today was seeing Luis and my father high-five each other (fist-to-fist) as they said good night. Before leaving for his room, Luis turned back and looked at my dad and said, “my wingman.” I thought that was the perfect way to end such a perfect day.
A Father’s Perspective
There is not much that I can add to the impeccable delightful daily reports that Carolina has prepared that evoke the special flavor and substance of the “Camino de Santiago”. The accomplishment of having already done more than 600 kilometers on foot under extremely difficult conditions, shows in Monica, Carolina and Luis, an enormous determination and inner strength without which any person obviously would abandon the journey. I am most impressed and proud of my girls as they have walked and climbed all across Spain in the most difficult of all the routes of the Camino. I am amazed at what they have done.
I want to give the insight of an old veteran, and somewhat experienced bike rider of what it is like to ride with your spinal chord injured son through some of the most difficult and beautiful terrain I have ever seen. I started the Camino Norte in Irun with Luis and did one stage with him and then had to leave for business reasons only to return on the the 18th of August with our sons Matias and Diego,( both of whom walked several stages before returning to school), and my close friend Esteban Reynal,( who has been part of all our rides and who has impressed me with his prowess and dedication).
Upon returning, I started the second part in Santillana del Mar to Llanes and then joined the rest of the family group including Luis in Oviedo. My first outing with Luis together with Esteban, after my return to the group, was the stage Oviedo to Grado one with over 18 kilometers of the most difficult climbs I have ever experienced. A day that unfortunately started too early for Luis at 2 PM in the afternoon, the hottest time of day. I’ve now done seven rides with Luis in the Camino and I must say that the impact and influence this has had on me will be with me forever. The rides over beautiful varied scenery all have had long and very difficult climbs, and every time the climb ends, there is another one around the bend. Luis honored me with allowing me to be his wing man. The extreme effort that he puts in to every revolution of his hand pedals is awesome and inspiring. We have had several stages in ove
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Facebook
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https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/rsrc.php/yT/r/aGT3gskzWBf.ico
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https://www.spencerstuart.com/locations/madrid/consultants
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en
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Spencer Stuart Madrid
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Consultants in our Madrid office help recruit and develop leaders, improve team effectiveness, and support strategic or cultural transformation.
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en
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https://www.spencerstuart.com/locations/madrid/consultants
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Find an expert
We help you find and develop outstanding leaders, improve team and board performance, and align culture with your strategy.
Visit our directory
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https://followthecamino.com/en/blog/the-promised-land-elizabeth-musser/
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en
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with Author Elizabeth Musser
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2021-02-09T12:35:49+00:00
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The Promised Land is a tale of coming together on the Camino. Elizabeth tell us about her personal connection to the Camino and her book.
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en
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Follow the Camino
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https://followthecamino.com/en/blog/the-promised-land-elizabeth-musser/
|
I don’t sleep a wink on the plane, and by the time we land in Paris I feel high on caffeine and exhaustion. And this backpack. It weighs a ton. If Bill had been with me, well, he would have said, “Abbs, you don’t need to pack the kitchen sink, for heaven’s sake,” and he’d start pulling things out.
But Bill is not here, and I have planned this whole trip alone. Fiercely alone.
I take the train to Le Puy-en-Velay, one of the four main starting parts for the pilgrimage in France. It is almost ninety degrees outside. Thank heavens there is air conditioning on the train.
I step off the train, hoist my pack on my back, and pull my small suitcase behind me, in search of a taxi. I stop to take in my surroundings, looking up at the huge rock—more like a very narrow mountain—and gasp. I’ve seen photos spread across the Internet, but there she is, in real life. Or I should say, there they are. Mary and Jesus, way larger than life, perched high on a rock that dominates the city.
She’s called Notre Dame de France, and Wikipedia tells me that she was erected in 1860, standing in her glory way up there on a volcanic spur 130 meters high. The red statue was created and cast from the bronze metal recovered from 213 cannons captured from the Russians during the Crimean War. Leave it to the French to make the Virgin Mary from cannons! She’s huge—22 meters high—and weighs a ton. No, make that 835 tons. And she’s holding Baby Jesus in her right arm…
…The sight is breathtaking, and beautiful, in a way I cannot even try to explain. I stare at them and think Okay, well maybe this is a good place to start a pilgrimage.
I’m staying in a tiny studio on a cobbled road in the old part of town. The room is way up on the third floor. No elevators, of course. I drag my backpack and suitcase up the narrow, winding, very old cement staircase, which has a vague aroma of cat urine.
The studio seemed like the perfect location, but there is one hiccup. The French have this Camino thing working like a well-oiled machine. A minivan from a company called La Malle Postale will pick up my suitcase tomorrow morning and take it to the next place I’m staying, fifteen kilometers further down the trail. Of course, many pilgrims only carry a backpack for their long journey, but I have not signed up for torture, and evidently lots of other people feel the same way. But it was only after I’d paid for my lodging on Airbnb that I discovered one minor inconvenience: La Malle Postale does not pick up bags from Airbnbs, but only from hotels and hostels specifically registered as part of the Camino.
I groan, thinking of the early morning run I’ll have to make across town tomorrow morning to deposit the suitcase at the acceptable spot, and let the backpack slip from my shoulders onto the wooden floor. I need a cup of tea. A strong cup of tea. It is two in the afternoon in France, and I’ve been up for twenty-four hours straight….
…It’s only three p.m. Instead of going back to the train station, I’m free to walk around the old part of town, take photos, and admire the statue of Mary and Jesus from every angle. Then I decide to walk to the cathedral, an immense structure built over the period of some ten centuries, the fifth to the fifteenth, so I’ve read. That’s old.
The short hike from my studio to the cathedral goes up and up and up a sharp incline. I walk along the cobblestones, noting a few cozy restaurants and tourist shops lining the narrow road. The cathedral’s façade, striped looking with alternating white and black stones, is imposing, almost intimidating, towering over me with its three massive levels of stonework. The bottom layer—my destination—is the cathedral’s porch with its arched arcades. I stand, already out of breath, at the bottom of the sixty steps.
Good grief, we pilgrims will be worn out before we ever start our journey if we have to climb up here with our backpacks!
But for today I’m unencumbered, so I walk up and up and up all those steps. It’s worth the view from the top, though, as I turn around and look past the alcove and the vaulted openings to the whole valley below.
I enter the church, dark, majestic, and very gothic, demanding reverence. I stand there for a few minutes, letting my eyes adjust. Then I look up and ahead of me at the painted cupola with its black virgin. I feel chills. An elderly couple enter, genuflect, and cross themselves, Catholic style. After a few minutes of silent contemplation, during which I am still hearing too much noise in my mind, I pass through the cathedral bookstore, where I have read all pilgrims must go to get their “passport.” It’s called a créanciale, and is a folded booklet that pilgrims get stamped at each place they stay. A proof of their pilgrimage, I guess. The suggested donation is five euros. I get one for Bobby, Rasa, and Caroline too, and leave the enthusiastic cashier thirty euros.
“Merci, Monsieur.”
He rewards me by answering in French. “Je vous en prie, Madame.” Then he adds, in English, “Do you know about the welcome meeting later today?”
In fact, I do. I’ve saved a thread from a Camino forum on my phone that talks about this as well as the early morning Mass: There is a friendly group of Friends of the Camino in Le Puy who welcome new pilgrims. They meet every evening between April and October starting at 5:30 p.m. at 2 Rue de Manécantare.
Every day at 7 a.m. there is a Mass in the Cathedral with the Pilgrim’s Blessing at the end. It is rather nice to start your Camino experience leaving from the Cathedral with the other pilgrims, through the old streets.
For now, I leave the cathedral alone and wander around town, up and down, up and down. I could walk up to the top of the Corneille Rock, where the view is surely amazing, but I decide to save my strength for the start of the hike tomorrow.
Late in the afternoon, as the sun is descending, gleaming off of Mary as if she’s on fire, I make my way behind the massive cathedral to the little street, rue de Manécantare, where I find a door marked Camino and Acceuil. Welcome. I step inside the room and find a group of pilgrims seated around a table on which sit little glasses and a pitcher filled with what an American would assume is weak Kool-Aid. Not at all. It’s a kir—white wine with crème de cassis added. The French! Welcoming pilgrims from around the world with a glass of wine!
I pass on the kir and settle into a chair while the group leader, a fiftysomething man named Laurent, launches into an animated discussion of all the wonders of the Camino, alternating between French and English as he talks. He doesn’t mention anything religious exactly, although he admits this pilgrimage can be “very spiritual.” He’s walked all 1200 kilometers from right here in Le Puy to the end of the Camino on the furthest western piece of land in Spain. According to Laurent, the place, Finisterre, literally means the end of the world.
Twenty of us are present: ten Germans, two young men from Italy, a father-son team who are French, a young Polish man, and four American women who look to be about my age.
We go around the room, sharing where we’re from and how far we hope to walk.
The young man has already been walking for two months, from his home in Poland, and he’s going to walk two more months at least until he gets to Finisterre. Alone.
The women are from Washington State. They are planning to walk the Via Podiensis, the part of the pilgrimage starting in Le Puy and ending at a picturesque village called Conques, two hundred kilometers further south in France. It’s the same path that Bobby and Rasa and I are planning to take. And Caroline, I remind myself. Maybe. I’ve calculated the length as 125 miles.
When it’s my turn to share, I say, “Hi, I’m Abbie. I’m from Atlanta, Georgia, in the southeast of the United States. I’m walking with my son and his friend, but I just heard today that his friend is sick, so they aren’t joining me until I get to Monistrol.” I give a nervous laugh. “So I guess I’ll be alone for these first few days.”
Laurent leans over from where he’s sitting, eyes dancing. “Abbie,” he says, and his accent is strong and clear. “This is what is so beautiful about the Camino. You are never alone.”
I think he may launch into something about God being with us, but instead he says, “You will find many, many friends on the Camino. I guarantee it.”
As we leave the welcome center, one of the women comes over to me. “Hi, I’m Jamie. That’s a bummer about your son’s friend.”
“Well, it’s a disappointment, for sure. And especially for them. But”—and I turn up my palms—“Laurent says I won’t be alone. That’s good to know.”
She chuckles. “Indeed.” Then, “Abbie, would you like to join us for dinner?”
“Oh, no. I don’t want to bother you all.”
“No bother! We’re all pilgrims, right?”
“Well then, sure! Thanks!”
These women, Jamie, Brenda, Barbara, and Lynn, each give me a big smile and a welcome. Then Lynn adds, “Let’s go ring the bell for good luck on our pilgrimage!”
We head out into a garden that adjoins the building, where I immediately spy the large bell that I’ve read about on the forum. Each of us rings it, recording the photo on our smart phones. I take a deep breath and say a silent prayer, “Thank You, Lord, for these women. I really didn’t look forward to being alone tonight.”
…
The evening is progressing well. Bobby has texted to make sure I’m okay. By the time we leave the restaurant, it is after nine and I am wiped out.
“Will we see you at Mass tomorrow morning, Abbie?” Jamie calls after me.
“Yes, of course. I’ll be there bright and early.”
“Why don’t you come back afterwards and have breakfast with us at our hotel—it’s delicious. Homemade jellies, cheeses from the region, yogurts, and of course, French bread. And fresh fruits. I’ve already checked with the host, and he says it’s fine. We need to start out with a big breakfast if we’re going to make it.”
“Thanks, girls. You’ve been so kind. I’d love to join you tomorrow morning.”
As I head to my little studio, I can almost hear Laurent whispering, “You’re never alone on the Camino, Abbie.” I guess he’s right.
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https://www.amazon.com/WALK-Bacons-Secret-Mission-Santiago/dp/1733543910
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en
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Amazon.com
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17422
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yago
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https://www.g3gm.com/t3502-my-name-is-earl-1973-el-camino-to-sell-on-barrett-jackson
|
en
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My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
|
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[
"74MonteCarlo",
"Sponsored content"
] |
2011-01-02T21:52:06-04:00
|
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/application/onlinesubmission/lotdetails.aspx?ln=46.2&aid=403&pop=1
|
en
|
https://illiweb.com/fa/favicon/discussion.ico
|
www.g3gm.com
|
https://www.g3gm.com/t3502-my-name-is-earl-1973-el-camino-to-sell-on-barrett-jackson
|
by 74MonteCarlo Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:52 pm
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/application/onlinesubmission/lotdetails.aspx?ln=46.2&aid=403&pop=1
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by Biomedtech Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:59 pm
Does it come with the mobile home too?
Put Jaime Pressley in the passenger seat and I'll sell my kids!
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by Mcarlo77 Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:02 pm
"This TV star car will be instantly recognizable wherever it goes".
Really?!! I'm thinking not...
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by 1973montec Mon Jan 03, 2011 12:29 am
this was at the Mecum auction in Inidana last summer.
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by The Dude Mon Jan 03, 2011 11:43 am
Biomedtech wrote:Does it come with the mobile home too?
Put Jaime Pressley in the passenger seat and I'll sell my kids!
Put her in the passenger seat with an Axe detailer & there's no telling what I would do for the car!
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by pila Mon Jan 03, 2011 5:25 pm
Just more hype & BS
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by HDHugger Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:51 pm
What date is it going up for auction? I want to watch it!
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by Mcarlo77 Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:14 pm
Scheduled for Tuesday the 18th. Based on the Lot #, I'd guess early evening.
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by 1973 454 MONTE Wed Jan 05, 2011 4:41 pm
this elky was at Mecum this past summer. my boss took his 41 willies there to sell and i saw his pics of it.
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by Mcarlo77 Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:36 pm
Ha! It was my buddy Shawn that bought the"Earl" El Camino at Barrett-Jackson last month! Claims he thought the package came with a weekend of partying with Jaimee Pressley...kidding! Well...at least we can all have peace of mind that it has found a good home here in MN!
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by 74MonteCarlo Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:37 pm
Invite him over here and share more pictures!
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by 1973montec Sun Feb 20, 2011 10:32 pm
yes
pics we love pics
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by JB2wheeler Sun Feb 20, 2011 10:35 pm
How much did he pay for it? Yes, I am nosy. I believe he got a good car/truck there. JB
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by Mcarlo77 Sun Feb 20, 2011 10:55 pm
He paid $9K; plus the req'd 10% buyer's fee. I'll see if I can't get him to join and post some pics. Right now, it's sitting in his garage and I don't think he really has any plans for it other than just having it for a conversation piece (his middle name is Earl).
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by The Dude Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:30 am
In all honesty, it's better off staying that way. Years from now someone will make a crappy remake of the show into a movie & the car will still be around for the producer to get ideas from.
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by cees klumper Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:28 pm
Hi everyone - through a kind introduction by Mcarlo 77, yesterday I spoke with his friend Shawn and, long story short, agreed to buy the 'Earl El Camino' from him. So pretty soon I will have my own (and first ever, by the way) Chevrolet and a pretty special one at that. Small logistical challenge is I live in Switzerland and will be importing the car there, but this is done all the time so I'm sure it won't be too much of a hassle.
I plan to use the car at our second home, in a small village in the French countryside, actually use the hauling capacity, but won't change a thing to the car - so it'll be ready whenever the crappy remake of the show (which, can't you tell, I really enjoyed) needs to happen. They'll just have to do it in Europe - as in, Earl somehow needs to go to France to look up that French guy Pierre he pestered as a kid, or something like that.
Anyway, I will be lurking around here for sure, because I enjoy working on my own cars and will need lots of info.
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by cees klumper Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:31 pm
P.s. when I get the car over here I will post pictures ...
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by JB2wheeler Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:38 pm
Congrats on your buy. I believe from what I have read that the car was taken good care of and they made it look ratty on purpose. If it was mine I would fix the body up and paint it, but then again I have never seen the show in question so don't know who Earl is. JB
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by ant7377 Fri Apr 29, 2011 11:33 pm
You know it was on the show "Justified" just 2 weeks ago.
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by The Dude Mon May 02, 2011 10:09 am
Congrats on the score! Let us know if the car truly is ratty or just built to look that way. I'm a fan of the show & car.
Re: My Name Is Earl 1973 El Camino to sell on Barrett-Jackson.
by cees klumper Mon May 02, 2011 5:29 pm
Thanks Rago. I'm anxious to find out for myself ... but I will be sure to post here regularly on how this El Camino gets on in France / Switzerland. Will be interesting to see how many people will recognize it here, the show did air in a number of European countries.
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https://discover.midhudsonlibraries.org/search/card%3Fid%3D44399f2d-96d0-5677-8564-872515c8c074%26entityType%3DFormatGroup
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en
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https://discover.midhudsonlibraries.org/search/favicon.ico
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https://discover.midhudsonlibraries.org/search/favicon.ico
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https://www.nga.gov/features/slideshows/el-greco-spanish-1541-1614.html
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en
|
El Greco (Spanish, 1541–1614)
|
https://www.nga.gov/content/dam/ngaweb/icons/favicon.ico
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https://www.nga.gov/content/dam/ngaweb/icons/favicon.ico
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National Gallery of Art
|
en
|
/content/dam/ngaweb/icons/favicon.ico
| null |
Overview
The man known as El Greco was a Greek artist whose emotional style vividly expressed the passion of Counter-Reformation Spain. Here at the National Gallery is the most important collection of his work outside that country, which was his adopted home.
The haunting intensity of El Greco's paintings—resulting from their unnaturally long figures and strong contrasts of color and light—has invited a kind of mythmaking about his life and art. Following his death, El Greco's work fell into obscurity and, after its rediscovery in the nineteenth century, was often misunderstood. El Greco has been called a prophet of modern art, a mystic, and even a man whose sight was distorted by astigmatism, all misconceptions that have clouded understanding of his distinctive but deliberate style.
El Greco's Style
Born on the island of Crete, Domenikos Theotokopoulos acquired the name El Greco—the Greek—in Italy and Spain. After working as an icon painter in the Eastern Orthodox tradition, he left Crete in 1568 to study western-style painting in Venice. There he was influenced by the Venetian artists Titian and Tintoretto, embracing their rich colors and free, sketchy manner of painting. After about two years he moved to Rome, where artists such as Michelangelo had developed a new mannerist style in which realistic portrayals of the physical world were shunned in favor of a more subjective view, one that existed not in nature but in the intellect. In mannerist works space was compressed, colors were bizarre, and figures became elongated and were intertwined in complex poses. Mannerism, from the Italian word for style, was highly self-conscious and artificial, emphasizing the artist's virtuosity and stylishness. Its intellectual basis appealed to El Greco, who enjoyed the company of scholars and, himself, wrote treatises on art and architecture.
Failing to win major commissions in Italy, El Greco moved to Spain. By 1577 he was in Toledo, where he remained for the rest of his life and produced his most important works. In the relative isolation of Spain, he continued to explore and intensify the possibilities of mannerism while his contemporaries in Italy returned to more naturalistic styles.
El Greco and the Counter-Reformation
El Greco's style, highly charged and hypnotic, was well suited to the aims of the Counter-Reformation. In the face of Protestant revolt, the Catholic church sought to reform its practices and reinforce belief in its doctrines. Spain put its vast resources—expanded by conquests in the New World—at the service of the church, and Toledo, because it was the seat of the archbishop, played an active role. The Council of Trent, which met in the mid-sixteenth century to clarify Counter-Reformation goals, explicitly recognized the importance of religious art. El Greco, whose patrons were primarily learned churchmen, responded with intelligent and expressive presentations of traditional and newly affirmed Catholic beliefs. His works underscored with powerful images the importance of the sacraments, the Virgin, and saints.
This painting and Saint Martin and the Beggar were part of one of El Greco's most important commissions. They originally hung opposite each other, flanking the central altar in the Chapel of Saint Joseph in Toledo. The Virgin and Child are framed by angels and a billow of clouds. Below are two female saints. Saint Agnes on the right holds the lamb with which she once appeared after her death to worshipers gathered at her tomb. The saint beside her, standing by a lion on which El Greco has painted his Greek initials, is probably Martina. Her name is the feminine form of that of the chapel's founder, Martín Ramírez. It is also possible, however, that she is Saint Thekla, who appeared to Saint Martin in visions. In the painting's original position high on the south wall of the chapel, the two saints would have seemed to stand directly behind the altar table, ready to intercede for worshipers in the heavenly realm.
The Chapel of Saint Joseph in Toledo, where this painting hung above the north altar, was established by Martín Ramírez, whose patron saint, Martin of Tours, is the subject here. As a soldier in Roman France, Martin cut his cloak in half to share it with a beggar he encountered. Christ later appeared to Martin in a dream wearing the makeshift cape and saying, "What thou hast done for the poor man, thou hast done for me." Martin was then baptized, and dedicated his life to Christianity. Venerated for his charity, he was zealous in making converts to the church.
The figures positioned in the extreme foreground loom as if perched on a high ledge, while the background recedes quickly to a distant vista—not of Amiens where the story took place, but Toledo. Time is likewise transformed as the fourth-century saint wears contemporary armor. These deliberate shifts of time and place hint at Toledo's role in the Counter-Reformation, suggesting that all Toledans should emulate the saint's charitable behavior.
A small replica of this subject, one of five known, may have been painted by El Greco's son, Jorge Manuel Theotokopoulos. It provides an instructive comparison with El Greco's own works. Here the brushstrokes are shorter and more hesitant; the elongated figures of the original are further distorted; and the saint's serene expression is transformed by the twisting curl of his lip.
The powerful and enigmatic Laocoön is El Greco's only surviving treatment of a mythological subject. The story relates how the hero, a priest in Troy, attempted to warn his countrymen of the Trojan Horse, whose hollow body concealed Greek soldiers. Laocoön was punished by the gods, who sent serpents out of the sea to kill him and his two sons.
A famous ancient sculpture of Laocoön, which El Greco must have seen, was unearthed in Rome in 1506. Like it, El Greco's painting depicts the climactic moment when the bearded priest struggles for life. One son lies dead, and the other will soon succumb. But El Greco placed these mythological characters and the Trojan Horse against the backdrop of Toledo. At the right stand two figures, perhaps gods viewing the scene. They are complicated by a third head and the leg of an unfinished figure. These mysterious figures and the view of Toledo have prompted many speculations about El Greco's intention. Is this a reference to a contemporary religious controversy, a moralizing allegory, or an allusion to the tradition that Toledo was founded by descendants of the Trojan heroes? Probably it is impossible to know. It may simply be that El Greco was motivated to match the virtuosity of a famous ancient statue with his own masterful invention.
A visitor to El Greco's studio wrote of seeing small versions of the painter's most famous works. They provided models for clients who wished to have copies made—such as the smaller Saint Martin painting also in the National Gallery of Art collection—and they also allowed the artist to work out compositional changes. Though unfinished, The Holy Family is essentially a record of the larger original and a basis for a second version. In this painting El Greco experimented with the figure of Saint Joseph, making him older than in other versions. This reflects debate in the Spanish church about Joseph's age at the time of his marriage to the Virgin.
This scene, in which the Virgin's mother, Saint Anne, and the infant John the Baptist join Mary and Joseph in admiring the sleeping Jesus, is not described in the Bible. It is one of El Greco's many inventions intended to further the aims of the Counter-Reformation. The complex symbolism of the Holy Family suggests Christ's eventual death and resurrection, hinted at by the infant's deep sleep and by the way he lies in his mother's lap. This pose, known in Italian as the pietà (pity), is most often used to show the Virgin holding her son's body after his crucifixion.
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https://www.weld.gov/Government/Departments/Human-Services
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en
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https://www.realoviedo.es/en/news/jaime-vazquez-called-up-for-spains-under-18s
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en
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Jaime Vázquez Called Up for Spain's Under-18s
|
[
"https://statics-maker.llt-services.com/ovi/images/2022/12/19/xlarge/c5b6621290893cb0be4d2a4712274eb2.png",
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[
""
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The Vetusta player, who has now made his first-team debut, has been called up for the matches against Switzerland
|
en
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https://www.realoviedo.es/en/news/jaime-vazquez-called-up-for-spains-under-18s
|
Real Oviedo Vetusta Jaime Vázquez has been named in Spain's Under-18 squad for the two friendly matches against Switzerland which will be played next week.
The call-up is a deserved reward for the centre back, who has become a permanent fixture at the heart of the B-team defence, and who has been named in the first-team squad on 14 occasions. He made his first-team debut against Amorebieta in Matchday 22 of LaLiga Hypermotion, putting in a fine performance.
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https://facesofthecamino.com/
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en
|
Faces of the Camino
|
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[
"Daniel Kole"
] |
2014-06-19T20:55:47-04:00
|
Documenting the stories and images of those I meet along the Camino de Santiago
|
en
|
https://secure.gravatar.com/blavatar/25bf8f1ec75831b26443e7f560ce98b85299ec7de457e993364b29adbcf94f5f?s=32
|
Faces of the Camino
|
https://facesofthecamino.com/
|
Wednesday, June 4
I’m on a plane in the sky hurtling at hundreds of miles per hour over the ocean towards New York.
And the best part is, the plane has tons of empty seats. Luxury!
The bus ride to Madrid was a long one that passed through Salamanca. Along the way I watched the terrain transform back into what I remembered from my post-graduation trip, years ago. Rolling hills, scarred, strewn with boulders as though armies of giants had fought there in a time before memory.
As we neared Madrid I noticed something out of the corner of my eye. It was the giant cross that sits atop the Valley of the Fallen, where I’d gone years ago on my first trip through Spain. With Tina, Greishka, Vivi, Daisy, Sal… I could go on but there are so many names to list; it was a full bus on that Contiki trip. Seeing the cross again was surreal, and for a moment I felt unstuck in time, as though now and then were the same, and not separated by over half a decade. But I was so much younger then. I wish I’d been then who I am now, but such wishes are silliness.
We stopped in the southern station near Atocha, and I gathered my things and entered the subway. I called on my memory — find Alonso Martinez station. What line is this? It reaches Nuevos Ministerios… I can switch there to the 10 and take it down to my station, and walk Calle Sagasta back to U Hostel where I had booked rooms just that morning on the computer in Porto. I had stayed at U Hostel before I left to start the Camino.
I walked with my pack and my walking staff. This is not normal in Madrid. People notice, but they are a bit more like New Yorkers in that they look away and avoid asking questions.
Arriving at the desk at U Hostel, I felt that the face of the receptionist was familiar. Her name tag read Natalia. She saw my staff and asked immediately, in English, if I was there to walk the Camino. I answered in Spanish that I had finished. We continued that way for a bit, her in English and me in Spanish, until she realized I wanted to practice and matched my language choice. When she checked me in and discovered that I’d been there before she told me she remembered me a bit, but that I look different. Probably so. Lost some weight, I told her.
I had a fierce desire to wash my clothing, so I did laundry before leaving to get food at around midnight. A nearby Italian restaurant another girl had recommended was closed, so I meandered back to the burrito place, Tierra, where I’d eaten the night before I left for the Camino. That night I’d tried to order in Spanish but had to fall back on English. Not this time.
I came back, checked Facebook a bit, and went to sleep in my room, where there was a Taiwanese couple and two South Korean guys who wore facial masks before going to sleep. Ain’t in Kansas anymore.
In the morning I woke blissfully late at around 9:30 or 10. Showered, and went downstairs with my staff to ask where there might be a UPS nearby. I’d seen the trucks in the streets sometimes. Natalia searched the internet for one in Madrid without any luck. Instead she directed me to Correos España. When I arrived there they told me the pole was too long to mail.
So I had a choice. Take my chances trying to bring a conspicuously tall wooden staff through the TSA checkpoints, or cut it in half. At the hostel I asked the girls where I might find a hardware store to cut it. Fortunately the maintenance worker overheard me and volunteered to help. I followed him downstairs to the maintenance room, where he cut the staff in half with a small hand-held rotary saw.
I returned to Correos to mail it, and the woman there offered me packing materials to prepare it for shipping. Bubble wrap, paper, and tape. I spent some time wrapping it up nicely and then, when it was done, I decided that surely now it was small enough and friendly enough that TSA wouldn’t object. Currently it’s in the overheard compartment above me. So far so good.
I’ve met more than a few folks who would suggest that I should’ve left it at the cliffs at the end of the world. Which does sound romantic, sure. But you know how sometimes you go home and dig through some old box of a few important keepsakes you saved? And as soon as you hold one, all sorts of memories and feelings come back to you that you’d long forgotten. I don’t believe in magic, but that is close enough. Someday when there are many years between me and my Camino, the staff and the shell and the Compostela will have a chance to work their spells on my foggy mind. Like seeing the stone cross over the Valley of the Fallen.
I went to lunch at a tapas bar called Orio, where I met a sister and brother duo from America, Gina and Linh, of Vietnamese descent. They sat at my table and we talked in English about their trip and mine. They’re in Spain traveling together before heading to Frankfurt for a wedding. Gina has traveled to Madrid often, nearly once each year for several years. For Linh, this is his first time in Europe.
They invited me to walk with them. The day was hot and sunny. I finally made it to Retiro park, which although lovely is difficult to appreciate on such a hot day. Everywhere the madrileñas were treating each open patch of grass like a beach for sunbathing. A bit like New York.
We made our way to a plaza or two and then to the Palacio Real, where an accordionist was playing, though not the same song that the accordionist I remember from years ago played in that very same spot.
We wandered to a park with ancient Egyptian structures, donated to Spain. I don’t know the history of why. I’ll have to look it up when I get back.
Afterwards we left for our separate hostels, planning to reunite in an hour and a half or so at the McDonald’s on Gran Via to meet with a Spanish friend of Gina’s, Oscar, and his nieces and sister. Of that group, Oscar speaks the most English, though the girls are learning. His sister was very excited that I could have real conversations with her in Spanish since she doesn’t understand much English.
At a nearby restaurant we shared a bunch of different raciones, family-style, before bidding them all farewell back on Gran Via.
And then we began our bar-hunt to nowhere! First we went past the Madrid version of a red light district, so Gina could show me the strangeness of an entire block with a prostitute waiting patiently under every tree. And there, at the end of the block, police. I guess there’s some sort of agreement happening there.
We began walking up Fuencarral since I remembered there being restaurants and bars along it nearer to Sagasta. We searched and searched but couldn’t find any very lively bars; to be fair, it was a Tuesday. We also found ourselves in Plaza del Sol, which has now become Vodafone Sol because Money. There we were assaulted by promoters for clubs. At first I was polite to them, but eventually I would just cut them off and keep walking, if I responded at all. Dear bars and clubs in Madrid; if you have three promoters standing outside your establishment, chasing passers-by as aggressively as a lioness chases a gazelle, you only end up chasing us away from a place we might have actually wanted to stop at.
We weren’t looking to stand in line outside a disco, and for some reason we just couldn’t find a simple bar with a good mix of people in it. Finally we began going back up Fuencarral towards Sagasta, but when we were a little more than half way there Linh felt that he was done. I can’t blame him, we’d been bar-hunting for something like two hours. He went back to his hotel. Gina and I continued up to Sagasta, finding that most of the bars I’d remembered were closed. But I knew with certainly that the British pub near my hostel was open, and that the common area of my hostel had a small bar too. We popped into the pub and found it dead, so we went up to the hostel and had beers. After a time we called her a cab out on the street and hugged goodbye.
A bizarre evening, but still fun for the sheer goofiness of it. Struggling to find a bar in Madrid!
I sneaked into my room where everyone was sleeping, and quietly went to bed.
This morning I woke later than the rest, except for the signs of someone new in one of the bunks. She must’ve risen early and gone out. All of us were leaving today except the mystery stranger.
I checked out, but spent some time downstairs choosing photos for the Fisterra post and uploading it. I left to get lunch at the burrito place but found it closed, so I meandered down to the plaza where the Alonso Martínez station is located. I looked at a few of the menus nearby, but in the end I didn’t have it in me to search. So, like a true American, I ate at the nearby Burger King. Hopped on the metro to the airport, checked in, and waited for my flight.
An American at the terminal recognized my shell as a symbol of the Camino. Turns out he’s been in Spain for a long while teaching English. I’d heard that it’s difficult for an American to get an English teaching position in Spain; that they prefer to hire UK citizens. But he said it was very simple. I’ll have to look into it. It’s not the sort of job that gets you closer to a luxurious retirement. But honestly, who cares? I would love to live in Spain.
New York tonight. Many reunions to be had!
-Daniel
Wednesday, June 4
I’d considered going from Galicia to Portugal, but I hadn’t done any research, booked any trains or buses, or made any reservations.
But when I woke up the next morning in Finisterre, I decided I would take the bus to Porto.
I packed and went to a café near the bus station to wait for the 9:30 bus to Santiago. Café con leche and a napolitana, per usual. Sitting by the bus stop, I met a German man who told me that if I took the earlier bus to Baio on the route to A Coruña and switched there to a bus bound for Santiago, I could reach Santiago in time to make the bus to Porto. I took his advice.
Once I boarded, I was happy to see Fabrizzio there. He was bound for A Coruña though, so this would be goodbye.
A drunk man also boarded the bus, apologized to the driver for having no money, and proceeded to spend the next half an hour regaling the driver with his life story of interpersonal difficulties and drug addiction, speaking as loudly, drunkenly, and repetitively as possible. On the way out he nearly tripped down the stairs.
We arrived at the bus station in Santiago quickly. It had taken me three days on foot, two of them very difficult days, to cover that same distance. I went upstairs to buy my ticket for the bus to Porto which was scheduled to leave in an hour. Winging it!
The bus to Porto was filled with former pilgrims, including a couple of the guys I’d met on the cliffs the night before. And as we boarded I also said goodbye to Chris, who arrived on the direct bus from Finisterre as I was in line to board mine. He was headed to Granada.
Four hours later I was in Porto, saying goodbye to the guys. An American girl came up to us as we talked and asked if any of us were staying in Porto, and if she could join up to get to the city center and find a hostel. Her name was Jamie.
She and I walked towards the historical center. Sort of. First we walked in the wrong direction for about 15 minutes. Then we walked back, found what seemed to be an area near the center, and asked locals for directions to tourist information points.
Unfortunately, the locals all speak Portuguese and I don’t. Fortunately I’d been traveling with two Brazilians for some time, so I was at least a little bit more accustomed to the sounds and words of Portuguese than I would’ve been otherwise. Of all the languages I’ve tried to get comfortable with, I find Portuguese the most difficult because of the pronunciation. It’s such a smooth language, with sounds that are so different from Spanish even though the written words are often similar.
In time we found the information center and got tips on nearby hostels. The first that we tried was full, so we went to Pilot, a hostel not far from the main street and palace. I was able to get a bed there for one night but not two, because the next night was already fully booked.
The reception area and lounge had a very nightlife vibe. The girls at the desk dressed stylishly as bartenders at a club would. It was a far cry from a pilgrim albergue. The others in the hostel were typically very young — many of them French Canadians enjoying a vacation, or a gap year between college and university. A few other Canadians, not the French variety, were beginning a tour through Portugal that would take about two weeks. Also there was a German couple just enjoying a few relaxing days away from the stress of studying.
After showering I was starving, so I asked one of the receptionists, Flavia, what she would eat if if she were going out for food. She pointed me to two places. Munchies, where I could get a good burger, or Piolho, where I could try a traditional meal from Porto called a Francesinha, which means “Little French Girl” and must be some sort of joke. It’s a large sandwich filled with meats and cheese, and encased in egg and some type of sauce. A heart attack on a plate, but very tasty.
Afterwards I wandered the city, talking briefly with the two Germans when I saw them in a nearby park. They mentioned that they really enjoy talking to native English speakers, which is something I’ve noticed about Germans in general as I’ve traveled. The Dutch, too. It’s very different from many other cultures where, even if a person has learned a passable amount of English, he or she usually prefers not to speak it if it can be avoided.
I made my way down to the river and walked along it towards a huge bridge. There were restaurants, shops, and music. The late afternoon sun bathed the buildings and the bridge in a warm glow. Couples walked together hand in hand, or sat at the tables overlooking the river as you would along Venice’s Grand Canal. I found myself wishing somebody had been there to share the experience with me. I’ll have to go back with someone, someday.
In one of the larger squares along the river there was a huge screen with a soccer game being projected on it, and the square was packed full of people sitting at tables to watch, being served by the nearby bars and restaurants. As I walked away from the square and through the city streets I hear cheering in the distance, and then again much closer. Just a block farther I was stopped in my tracks by locals lighting fireworks in the street, huddled in a mass outside a nearby bar and chanting “Porto! Porto! Porto!” They saw my camera and yelled to me to take a photo of the group.
I returned to the hostel and sat a bit with some of the others, getting to know them. In time they left for the nightly pub crawl. My feet were too sore for that sort of thing, especially after wandering the city. So I stayed and chatted with one of the girls, Daniela, until very late.
In the morning I packed my things and walked down one block to another hostel nearby, Invictus, and checked in there. The guy at the counter was very friendly and insisted on being called Joe. I unfortunately only had a 50 euro bill to pay with, so after jokingly saying “I hate you so much man,” he offered to buy me a coffee at the café next door where he could exchange the 50 for smaller notes. We chatted a bit and he gave me some tips on the city.
I couldn’t move my things into the room yet, because check-in wasn’t until 3. So I left my bag in the lobby area and walked to the Casa da Musica as my sister had suggested. Unfortunately without buying a tour there wasn’t a lot to see, and the only English tour was later, at 4pm. So I left and walked to the nearby bus station to buy my ticket to Madrid for the next day.
As I left Casa da Musica, a little girl walked up to me quickly without saying a word. She tapped me lightly on my arm, and held a clipboard with a piece of paper on it up towards my face. Even without a common language between us it was clear enough that she was deaf, and collecting money to support an organization that helps her. I reached into my wallet and gave her the first bill I found. She mouthed “obrigado” while making the same sign that also means “Thank you” in American Sign Language, and tapped my arm again before walking away.
Returning to the center after buying my bus ticket, I stopped for lunch at a grill Joe had recommended. I asked the waiter for his suggestion and he brought me a steak with egg on top, rice, french fries, a sausage, and something similar to a small corn dog. All delicious.
Then I stopped in at a mall to buy some non-pilgrim pants and cheap shoes from H&M.
I went back to the hostel and found that Joe was gone, replaced by a girl name Gisele. I checked in with her and then relaxed for a bit. I intended to write, but instead we found ourselves talking for quite a while about this and that. Porto, the States, the Camino, Cuba and the embargo, recognizing different accents in a foreign language — whatever came to mind.
After a bit I left for Serralves, a sort of mini-Coachella that happens once a year in a park a good distance from the center that bears the same name. I said goodbye to Gisele, though we thought maybe we’d meet later at a jam session in a nearby bar, if she could make it despite an early morning meeting with her landlord.
I went to the main square and waited in front of McDonalds with a group of people for the free bus to Serralves. When it arrived it turned out to be a bus built for sightseeing tours. Open-air seating.
After a month moving only under the power of my own feet, speeding through the streets in an open-air bus with the wind whipping my face was like some sort of roller coaster adrenaline rush. This must be a small taste of how the Amish feel on Rumspringa.
Serralves was interesting but a little underwhelming. I’d expected there to be something happening around every corner. Stages here, stages there, art exhibits, always something going on. But instead I found it was mostly a lot of people waiting here or there for something to begin. I watched a guitarist and drummer play for a bit, and wandered far and wide through the park. But I think it’s the sort of thing you have to do with friends, so you have someone to pass the time with when you’re waiting for the next set.
I left. Unfortunately there didn’t seem to be a simple bus ride back like the one there. Gisele had suggested I walk to the beach, in the opposite direction from the center, and take the beach and river path all the way back. But I knew my feet weren’t up to that, not after the difficult day of Fisterra. As a compromise with myself I branched off from Rua Boa Vista towards the river, which resulted in having to navigate some convoluted streets in some less than welcoming neighborhoods. But eventually I found my way to the river and walked along it back to the center.
Joe had told me that a restaurant called Santiago cooks the best Francesinha there is. So I again found myself on a camino towards Santiago. But unfortunately it was closed; Sunday night after all. Tired and hungry, I ate at McDonald’s, which was practically a palace. Marble floors and Corinthian columns and spiral stairs. We don’t need no golden arches.
Stopping briefly in the hostel, I carried on to the bar where the jam session would be. It was meant to go on at 11, so of course it didn’t. 11:30 arrived, no music. Midnight, no music. I found myself drifting to sleep, so I paid my bill and went back to the hostel.
The next morning I left for Madrid by bus.
-Daniel
Edit:
If you find yourself in Porto and would like to visit the hostels I stayed at, here are links to their websites. Good places, good people. And no, they aren’t paying me for this endorsement. 🙂
Pilot: http://pilothostel.com/pilothostel.html
Invictus: http://www.oportoinvictushostel.com/
Sunday, June 1
Yesterday, for the first time in 33 days, I let a vehicle move me from one place to another instead of my own two feet.
But let’s start the day before that, when my Camino ended.
I woke early in Olveira and went to the café for coffee and toast. Bernie and Debbie were there also (everyone was, it’s the café owned by the hospitaleros so it’s the closest and easiest place to eat). I said hello, and sat facing the television. The weather report began — clear in Galicia! Well, maybe not clear. But not raining either.
I ate quickly and left as the sun was beginning to push through the clouds on the horizon. In the cool air I walked briskly, but paused often to take photos of Galicia without rain and fog. I wandered off the trail into a field as high as my knees to get a better photo of the landscape against the glow of sun. And I walked back out with shoes and pants wet from the dew. Worth it.
The route was windmills and river canyons, green stones in the water, hilltops and sunlight. And somewhere forward was Fisterra.
I was about to follow a marker past the last hospital when a woman who worked there called to me and warned me there’d be nothing for 15 more kilometers. So I stopped and had a sandwich and a Coke. Bernie and Debbie were there, and we wished each other a good walk as they stood to go.
Leaving the hospital I began to walk and talk with two Americans, Chris and Duncan, both from St. Louis. Chris is active in the Catholic association on his campus and had organized a group trip from Sarria to Santiago, and afterwards he continued towards Fisterra. Duncan is a friend of his who came on his own to join him.
Along the path we found two horses standing, munching grass. One took a quick liking to Chris, responding to scratching behind the ear as gleefully as a dog.
In time Duncan fell behind at a slightly slower pace. Chris and I walked a long way talking, and so the kilometers to the coast passed quickly. We arrived at the top of a hill, where a marker read “To the end.” In front of us we could see the coastline and a few peninsulas. One seemed to extend farther than the other and it had the right shape — it had to be Fisterra.
Sitting nearby and enjoying the view was a German I’d seen a few times but not spoken to. Chris knew him (it turns out Chris knows everyone. He’s very outgoing). We chatted a bit and took photos, and Chris decided to stay at the hill and snack a bit. The wind was in my sails; I kept going.
The descent was steep and rocky. I was glad to have my walking staff. I found myself zigzagging across the wide path to find the flattest ground, but at times there was none. Stone to stone in uneven steps. Down and down.
I finally reached flat land again and came upon the first coastal pueblo. As I passed through I saw a dog in the street, near a house with an older woman out front and some chickens. I came towards the dog and reached out, and she shied away, head down. But she didn’t run. I reached my hand out more slowly until she allowed it to touch her. Then she tucked her head away again.
I kept my hand out but brought it back a bit towards me. She stepped forward. A little more and we touched again. Suddenly she was open and affectionate, letting me pet her and pressing up against my leg when I stopped. Sometimes she would back away again, but she always returned.
The old woman had been watching. I smile at her. “Te gustan los perros?” she asked. You like dogs? I replied yes, that wherever I go they are always my friends. I smiled and said goodbye.
As I passed through Cee, I was stopped by two old men. One first tried to guess my language, and he lit up when I responded in Spanish. He started telling me about all the languages he can speak, and telling me about the way the path went and where I could stop to eat. His friend often tried to get a word in without much success. A woman passed by and as she left he told me she was Italian, and he speaks Italian. We said goodbye in every language either of us knows.
As I left the old men, Bernie and Debbie caught up. We only briefly walked together and discovered suddenly that the Camino was not well marked here. The arrows vanished. I started asking locals which way to go. Bernie and Debbie followed albeit hesitantly. Finally we came to an open park with a view of the ocean, a road along it, and the next pueblo. A local told me to head there to a plaza where I would find arrows again.
Bernie and Debbie stayed behind to snack. We said goodbye. I wouldn’t see them again, it turns out..
I walked to the next pueblo, finding arrows along the coastal road. But within the pueblo they were again poorly marked. Locals directed me towards the church, and another man there pointed me down the correct street which climbed up to the back of the town. Finally there were arrows again. I found myself in a narrow alley, walls covered in vegetation, climbing steeply out of the town and up the hill behind. It took me briefly through the woods until it it came out again to another town and then went on to rejoin a road, then left it again for the hills which offered the best view yet of Fisterra, which still seemed so very far away.
Onward and onward and onward, seemingly forever. Finally, I emerged onto a beach-side path that led into Fisterra. Many pilgrims walked the sand as the path diverged inland, but I wanted to stick to it in case there was anything interesting along it. Eventually the path joined the beach again at a bar, where I found Sven relaxing and enjoying a beer.
He urged me to drop the pack and go enjoy the water, but I was a man on a mission. Many pilgrims seemed to be checking into albergues first and leaving their packs there, planning to go up to the lighthouse another 3km away for sunset. I couldn’t stop. I had to reach the end with my pack on my back and my staff in my hand, so I kept going.
It was the hardest 3 kilometers of my life. I hadn’t sat down since I ate that morning. My feet burned and ached on the asphalt and I could feel that the skin was not doing well. But I couldn’t stop. The street climbed and arced along the hillside until finally I approached the lighthouse, surrounded by tourists and cars and buses. Feelings swelled as the final marker appeared in front of me. 0.00km. People were posing with it, but they stepped away as I got closer.
I reached out with my hand to touch it, to make it real, and sat down on an angled stone in front of it. Not so much sitting as collapsing. My head down, I took some time to just be there, exhausted, at the end.
I heard the click of cell phone cameras behind me. I guess the tired pilgrim at the end of his journey makes for a photogenic moment.
But the stone wasn’t really at the end. The lighthouse was behind it. And behind that, the cliffs. I stood, took a few photos of the stone and with it. I kept going.
On the cliffs I found many people, some of them burning articles of clothing or paper on an altar that bore a cross, or on the rocks nearby.
I descended as far as I could, my feet sending my brain constant and painful status updates. Shut up, we’re nearly there.
I found a boulder that was as far as I could safely go with my bulky pack, and sat. The end of the world at last. The end of the Camino, 33 days and hundreds upon hundreds of kilometers from the beginning.
Eventually I stood again and climbed to a rock closer to the lighthouse. I took off my right boot to see what my foot was complaining about. Not good. A new blister, and a lot of damaged skin. An old French woman walked over to see how I was, frowning a motherly frown as she looked at my foot. She offered water but I assured her I had some.
I was the only one there with all my belongings, and people noticed. Another woman came over to me and offered me food that looked a bit like a date. I accepted it with thanks. I was very hungry.
After bandaging my foot a bit I put my boot back on and endured the 3 kilometers back to town. I found an albergue and a supermarket where I could buy some foot cream to help heal the skin, and took some time to shower and relax.
But not too much time. I wanted to go back up for the sunset. I ate at a nearby bar; pulpo, razor clams, and chipirrones.
I really do think a pulperia would do well in Los Angeles.
At around 8:30 I left for the lighthouse, arriving about an hour before sunset. I climbed back down to the boulder I’d sat at earlier and stayed there for a while taking photos and video and enjoying the warmth. Nearby I saw three wild goats approach, munching on the grass. There wasn’t much room on the cliffs and normally there are many people here, so I was surprised to see animals. More photos and video, of course.
I climbed back up and found a boulder with a good view of both the sunset and the people watching it. Next to me were a pair of boots with a small bouquet in them; a recent tribute to the end of someone else’s journey
The crowd was growing. I heard a lot of German and Korean and a bit of French. But I didn’t see Sven or Kasumi as I’d expected to. Maybe Kasumi went the Muxia way, or maybe she didn’t do Fisterra in 3 days. Sven must’ve stayed in town, I suppose.
As sunset neared I saw Chris and Duncan and called out to them. They came over to my boulder and said hello, as did the German from earlier, whose name I learned was Markus. He had started about 100km farther back than me, deeper in France. So for him, this sunset was even more significant. I took video as the sun dipped. The guys passed around a bottle of wine. The lighthouse lit up, and we began walking back under the sliver of the waxing crescent moon.
I was glad not to be alone at the end.
Back in town we went a bar where live music was set to go on at midnight. Which means it actually went on at 12:45, because Spain. We drank some beers. Most of the guys were half asleep. As we sat we saw the cute hospitalera from the municipal walk in with her friend, and Chris and I went over to chat with them. The musicians finally started playing; something in between rock and flamenco.
Soon after, we saw that the rest of the guys were getting up to go. We said goodbye to the girls and left.
Chris turned to Duncan and told him it was time to go for a dip in the harbor. Duncan cursed him but followed. I’m blessedly immune to most peer pressure at this point, but I came along to see if they’d really go into the frigid water on a cold night.
Sure enough, they did. They stripped off and Chris charged ahead into the shallow water near the boats, and Duncan followed. A few moments later they came back out, dressed, and we walked back towards the municipal. I said goodnight to them as they entered, and continued to my albergue farther on.
The next morning I woke, had breakfast, and boarded a bus to Santiago and then Porto on a whim. I’ll save all that for the next post.
-Daniel
Monday, May 26
This should probably be the big, exciting, epiphany-laden post, right? Not yet, I’m afraid. I’m here in Santiago, in a fancy-schmancy pensión hotel with towels and everything. Fancy by pilgrim standards, anyway.
We left O Pedrouzo a bit late. The room was very chilly and it’s no easy task getting out of bed in the cold. There were 20 kilometers between us and Santiago, and for much of it the extended family walked together. The Camino around here isn’t as enchanting as it is in the early etapas in Galicia. More streets, fewer magical forests.
The reality that I would reach Santiago today didn’t settle in for a while. Actually, it hasn’t settled in at all. Tomorrow I’ll stay here for the day. It will be the first time in 30 days that I haven’t woken early, packed my bag, laced up my boots, and trekked to a new town. The Camino isn’t done for me — I go on to Finisterre. But there’s an overwhelming feeling of finality here. I even feel aches that I haven’t felt before, as though my brain has given my body the go-ahead to start reporting all the damage I’ve done to it.
Tuesday, May 27
Continuing from yesterday…
We stopped for drinks at a bar called San Marcos, where there were campgrounds. And also chickens, rabbits, and a large goose all wandering free, except when the bartender saw them nearing the tables and ran at them, arms flailing to chase them away.
The sun hid and the chill grew worse as rain clouds came closer. I saw Stacy, the woman from California I’d spoken to often and occasionally walked with, as she entered the bar. I walked over and said hello. We hugged; it had been a while since we’d seen each other and neither of us was sure we would again. The bartender snapped our photo and I went back outside.
After collecting a few photos of the unfriendly goose, I threw my backpack on and joined Miguel and Larissa in leaving the bar. The others stayed behind — they often enjoy longer breaks than I prefer. I like to keep the rhythm going.
We carried on towards Santiago as it began to drizzle. We passed Monte de Gozo, stopping briefly at the pilgrim monument there. As we entered the outskirts of the city Stacy caught up and we spoke a bit about the news from Santa Barbara.
It was two kilometers to the city center. The camino brought us around the side of the cathedral before revealing the expansive plaza in front of it. We walked to the center and dropped our bags to the ground. We sat, we stood, we hugged, we took photos holding our backpacks high in the air. Victory.
Then we ran around looking for a place to sleep, and settled on the fancy-pants pensión.
Showered and changed, we walked to the Pilgrim’s Office to receive our Compostelas. The line was long but quick. I was greeted by an Australian, given my Compostela by a Spaniard, and I bought a tube from an Irishman to store it safely. And now it sits, hopefully secure, in my backpack. A long walk for a piece of paper — thank goodness that isn’t the point.
Still, I’ll probably frame it.
We went for coffee and found the others. I took portraits, of course.
Then we went to the Parador, to the old garage off to the side. It’s a quasi-secret that the first ten pilgrims to arrive there for breakfast, lunch, or dinner must be served for free. It’s a requirement by law, I’m told, and part of an old tradition. Here’s another secret: even free, it’s not worth the price. The food was bland; a product of obligation rather than pride. Go to a restaurant and buy a good meal. You earned it.
I was interrupted while writing yesterday when Virginia messaged me. The group was down in a bar near the cathedral. Miguel and I decided to go, and as we were preparing Larissa came back from a walk and joined us.
We joined the group just as Fabrizzio and Ignacio were leaving. Virginia, Luca, Alejandro, and Kasumi were still there. Over drinks and tiny sandwiches, called montaditos if I remember correctly, we convinced Kasumi to stay in town an extra night so that those of us walking to Finisterre would be leaving on the same day.
We drank, we ate, and then we wandered out to find another bar for orujo. We didn’t find it. Instead we stumbled across the same group of older Catalan men we’ve seen often. They were piss drunk. We all wandered together to a nearby club/bar where the Catalans ordered a queimada — a bowl of orujo blanco, with coffee beans and orange and lemon, set aflame before serving. The server passed out papers with an incantation on them; something in Gallego about witches, spirits, and other things that go bump in the night along with the forces of earth, water, and light being called on to help make the drink. Next Halloween, queimada in Los Angeles.
As the flames in the bowl burned higher and higher, the chanting began. I kept my camera trained on the bowl and recorded video, complete with the drunken slurring of the group as they read the words. Finally it was all served. Strong stuff. After a cup of it you feel the fire in your belly. Helpful on a cold night in Galicia.
Before we left we said goodbye to Virginia. She’s on her way back to Granada now.
This morning I set out to find breakfast but instead I found Juanito. We talked a bit before I moved on, and immediately I found him again in the plaza in front of the cathedral. I walked on and came across Larissa who had left the habitación before me, and hurriedly tried to bring her to Juanito — but he had disappeared.
Except he hadn’t. We went into the cathedral before mass and I saw him there. With Larissa and Juanito reunited, I went down to the tourist’s office to get a map of the route to Finisterre, and then returned for mass.
I sat with the two of them, a statue of San Tiago surrounded by gold decorations of angels and cherubs and saints before us. The mass began. They called out the names of the many cities along the road where pilgrims who received their compostelas the afternoon before had began, and announced the countries represented in each group. Saint Jean Pied de Port: Brazil, South Korea, the United States of America…
We took each other’s hands for a moment.
In a quiet time I prayed on behalf of my friend Daisy as she had asked me to do when we met for dinner before the big trip. We first met in Spain and both live in Los Angeles.
As the mass continued with beautiful song, I found myself beginning to comprehend the end. Beginning to understand that the faces that I’ve seen and seen again over and over on the Camino — sometimes of dear friends, others to whom I never said more than “Buen Camino” — would soon leave my life. I felt the water in my eyes but held it back.
Juanito never holds back; it’s one of his endearing qualities. And as he cried, I found myself crying a bit too. It passed.
We left and found Miguel. We’d planned to go for lunch but the plan changed. Larissa and Miguel would go buy non-pilgrim clothing. I don’t need that, so I went to get food. On the way I met Juanito and three South Koreans. He said they were all going to lunch in some market nearby. I went along. We wandered and wandered and I had to stop and ask for directions a few times. Finally we arrived and found that the market had no restaurants. And Juanito said he had promised some other people he would eat lunch with them, so he left. There I was with my three new Korean friends in a market without a restaurant!
We turned back up the street and stopped for lunch along the way. I got to know them a bit, and they me. When they asked me what I did and I told them, they followed by asking what movies I’d worked on. And at the end of the list they clapped! A very odd feeling.
I guided them back to the cathedral and we said goodbye. I had to be back at the room by 3 to meet Larissa and Miguel.
I arrived and we immediately left for a meal with Alejandro. Paella. Not the best, unfortunately.
Back the the pensión my parents messaged me. They looked up some flights for me to return. June 4, from Madrid to New York.
I have a ticket now. Talk about finality.
Tomorrow I leave for Finisterre. Three days. Then I’ll need to get a bus back to Santiago, and a train to Madrid.
Though I’m still thinking I might stop in Portugal if there’s time. It’s so close and I’ve never been. But I have to be sure I can make it to Madrid in time for the flight.
-Daniel
Thursday, May 22
In Galicia, you could be forgiven for believing in magic. Here in the hills and forests with ancient, fat-trunked, gnarled trees and paths lined with moss-covered stone walls, there must be sidh under the hill and faerie folk beyond the veil.
We stayed in bed a bit later than usual in Triacastela. It’s easy when the sky is gray and heavy and raindrops are falling lightly. After breakfast we set out in the rain and the cold.
We met with Fabrizzio, Kasumi, and Virginia along the way. The forest formed a tunnel around us, dark and damp. At the front of the line I slipped on the wet slabs of granite below our feet, but caught myself. We passed farms with bulls in brown and white — one, standing above me and to the right in a field I couldn’t see from my place on the path, held eye contact with me eerily as he munched. Fabrizzio made jokes about elves in the forest.
When we came across a sign for a bar we made a slight detour, and we arrived at a very tiny building, crowded with pilgrims and backpacks that had all arrived within minutes of each other. We huddled in and ate. For me, an empanada con atún and a Coke.
Fabrizzio’s knee had been in pain for some time, and two women overheard him talking about it. They had him extend his leg out, and then one of them rubbed her hands together and placed them on his knees, eyes squinting in concentration.
Nonsense.
We set out into the cold again. Fabrizzio grinned and in a faux-whisper said that the women with their magic hands must’ve been elves. His knee was no better.
A storm came on us quickly. The wind whirled around us, howling and pushing our giant wind-catching packs this way and that. I lowered my hood and spread my arms out wide. Something about it made us all loco, except Alejandro who seemed withdrawn. But I laughed and grinned and dared it to get worse, and we all sang songs with each other loudly. Fabrizzio is like a jukebox of American songs, and some Brazilian ones, and of course Italian. One of the songs we sang was “The Lion Sleeps Tonight,” and Larissa and I did a duet where she sang in Brazilian Portuguese and I in English.
Wind madness, if there is such a thing. As the storm raged I felt completely present and euphoric.
In Sarria we took the first albergue along the path in the town center, which blessedly had a room with only four beds, so we knew no one would flick the light on at 6am and start talking loudly. Our room was upstairs next to the kitchen and comedor, a big and comfortable area with a slanted roof of wooden logs. Fabrizzio, Virginia, and Kasumi chose the same albergue.
After showering and doing laundry we went to a nearby pulperia. Pulpo Gallego is a specialty in Galicia. It’s octopus cut up and served with oil and peppers, and it’s delicious. I feel a bit torn about it since octopi are known to be very intelligent. But it’s so tasty that I joked with Miguel about opening a pulperia in Los Angeles.
We also stopped in the supermarket and bought bread, cheese, chorizo, coke, chocolate, two bottles of wine, and a bottle of crema de orujo. We’re a bunch of drunks, apparently.
Back at the albergue I spent some time writing and uploading photos to the tablet. I sat with Virginia and Kasumi at one of the dining tables as they snacked on some chips and beer. Poor Virginia has back pain, and the bones or tendons around her shoulder blade pop and crackle when she moves her arm. I’m sure something is wrong with the fit of her pack.
She lives in Granada, and we met her for the first time a few days ago in Villafranca del Bierzo after she set out on her Camino from Astorga.
Kasumi, as you might guess, is Japanese. The Italians have nicknamed her Gina. She’s picked up a bit of a tan here on the Camino, which she says is not at all fashionable in Japan, and we often poke fun that she won’t be able to go back. I first met her in Calzadilla back in the flat lands, along the old Roman road.
It was a good night. We were joined by two Germans I met in Foncebadon, along with another Italian named Lucca who often travels with Fabrizzio, Kasumi, and Virginia. We ate, we drank, we joked. The hospitalero had to ask us to quiet down so the people downstairs wouldn’t be kept awake.
We stumbled to bed at around 11. In the morning I got up at around 7:15, which is delightfully late for a pilgrim. Alejandro woke soon after, followed by Larissa and then Miguel.
As before, we set out in the rain after breakfast, passing through more enchanted forests and farmland until we eventually stopped for food and a bar filled to the brim with tourists. And I mean tourists, not Pilgrims. People traveling in cars or with guides or buses. These last 100km are going to be strange.
As I sat down to eat I saw out of the corner of my eye a familiar face, though at first I didn’t react. Then I did a double-take — it was Michele! I thought he was an etapa or two behind me, but here he was in the same bar. I called out to him much too loudly, and his eyes lit up. We stood, walked hurriedly towards each other, and shared a mighty bear-hug. He was traveling now with some more Italians and a Spaniard, I think. I introduced him to my companions including Fabrizzio, who lives in Milan but was born in the south.
It’s difficult to express how joyful it was to see Michele again, and to know that we’re back on the same path. We didn’t say much, but his eyes said a lot and I imagine mine did too. Later I would see him again at our albergue in Portomarín.
After lunch we started to walk at slightly different paces. Alejandro ahead out of sight. Miguel with Larissa and I until she and I stopped at the sight of a young goat standing on top of the old stone wall that bordered her field. We slowed as we watched her reach up into a tree to nibble at the leaves. We stepped closer, and to our surprise she was unafraid and didn’t run. I took photos and video of Larissa reaching out towards the goat, and then she did the same for me.
As I held my hand out the goat sniffed it a bit and licked it once or twice. Hoping for food, I imagine. She let me pet her head a bit, and at times she butt her head with a little bit of force into my hand. Me standing there with my wooden staff and my hand resting fully on a goat’s head made for quite a sight.
For a city-slicker like me, it was a magical moment in an enchanted landscape.
But there was more magic to come. When we arrived at Portomarín, a lovely city overlooking a large river, we checked in at a nearby albergue called O Mirador and I turned on my phone’s Wifi. Moments later I received a message from my mother with an image of my unborn niece’s face via sonogram. Today, for the first time, I saw her face. My niece. Me, Uncle Daniel. Uncle Daniel. Imagine when she’s older and I can tell her this story!
We went upstairs to the restaurant for a meal. I don’t know if it was lunch or dinner and I suppose it doesn’t matter. We sat for a long time in the comedor where a wall of windows overlooked the river. Afterwards Larissa and I watched a few Brazilian music videos and I tried to play a video of The Dustbowl Revival for her, but the connection was slow.
We went downstairs to the albergue. She’s resting. Miguel and I are writing. Alejandro is listening to music. Later we’ll probably go back upstairs for some drinks and food. Outside the rain doesn’t stop.
-Daniel
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2024-07-12T09:19:58-04:00
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en
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/themes/custom/som/images/favicons/favicon.ico
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https://som.yale.edu/about/contact
|
Edward P. Evans Hall
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P.O. Box 208200
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For questions or updates to one of Yale SOM's websites, please email us: somwebsite@yale.edu
|
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17422
|
yago
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3
| 8
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https://www.rainbowresource.com/014184.html
|
en
|
Walk: Jamie Bacon's Secret Mission on the Camino de San
|
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"pilgrimage",
"Spain",
"European studies",
"historical narrative",
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Rainbow Resource Center
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https://www.rainbowresource.com/014184.html
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Jamie Bacon is angry that his parents are making him walk 500 miles in Spain as part of their home-schooling plan. He’s especially disappointed that, unexpectedly, Dad can’t come along on the trip, so he’ll be with just Mom and his sister Lily.
But when Jamie meets a priest, Father Diego, on the plane and hears the backstory of the Camino de Santiago, he’s intrigued. And when he naively agrees to the request by two pilgrims to secretly carry a heavily taped envelope, unopened, all the way to Santiago de Compostela, Jamie is stuck with keeping his word. Multiple missteps plague Jamie on the Way of St. James (the English name for the pilgrimage). He injures Lily, causes a car accident, loses the envelope twice, and gets the family lost. Like most Camino pilgrims, Jamie discovers every day on the route holds adventure, revelation, elation, and exhaustion. He meets quirky and kind and scholarly pilgrims; he learns legends and history. He sees marvels of architecture and explores castles, churches, and a cave. And he’s heroic, too, when he rescues a child from a charging bull, saves a puppy, prevents vandalism, talks his mother out of a panic attack, and more.
There are surprises in WALK. I don’t want to spoil a reader’s enjoyment, so I won’t disclose much more here. But when Jamie is finally in the holy city of Santiago de Compostela, after the family performs traditional pilgrim rituals in the world-class cathedral, it’s time for him to deliver that troublesome envelope. Finding out what he’s inadvertently carried the whole way produces Jamie’s biggest surprise.
|
|||||
17422
|
yago
|
3
| 92
|
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/hike-camino-de-santiago-ways
|
en
|
3 ways to plan a Camino de Santiago hiking pilgrimage
|
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"Stephen Phelan"
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2023-07-24T08:00:00+00:00
|
Pilgrims have been tracing trails to the Spanish city of Santiago de Compostela for centuries. Modern travellers can follow the tradition in search of their own personal fulfilment.
|
en
|
Travel
|
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/hike-camino-de-santiago-ways
|
To begin at the end: the remains of the apostle Saint James (or Sant Iago, in Spanish) are believed to repose in an urn, in a tomb, in a crypt, in the looming medieval cathedral of the city named after him. Santiago de Compostela was built around the saint’s burial site, as revealed to a shepherd by a guiding star almost a millennium after the body was carried here by stone boat from Jerusalem, with angels guiding the way. Or so the story goes. It has since led more than 1,000 years’ worth of pilgrims to this convergence point of myth and history, via the network of cross-country trails known as the Camino de Santiago. In 2022, a record 438,000 people completed one of those routes, some of them covering only the final 62 miles (or 124 miles for cyclists) required to qualify for the official pilgrim certificate, the Compostela. It’s a measure of how popular the pilgrimage has become, drawing not just the Catholic faithful but recreational trekkers, mountain bikers, group tours and solo travellers, coming to work off their worries — or a few extra pounds — in the wilds of the Iberian peninsula.
There are seven main caminos (ways) and while they all end in Santiago de Compostela, they’re not all confined to Spain. The French Way, from the foothills of the Pyrenees, has some of the best infrastructure and is by far the busiest. Lesser-travelled alternatives, meanwhile, trace the Portuguese coast, the Cantabrian Mountains and the inland plains of Castile and León. Each route offers its own distinct pleasures in terms of climate, landscape, physical challenges and regional cultures. But there are recurring features, with all paths marked by holy ruins, shrines, monasteries and albergues (simple hostels that have served the routes since the Middle Ages). There’s always camaraderie among the wayfarers. A bottle of water or wine shared with strangers in the ruins of a hilltop hospital built for early pilgrims might be the defining moment of your trip. There’s also solitude, if that’s what you want, and the profound satisfaction of moving through all this natural beauty under your own steam. If you don’t find God, or even yourself, on the way, there is at least the promise of deep peace and quiet.
Itinerary one: The Coastal Portuguese Way
The classic Portuguese Way from Porto is a largely inland option, but there’s also a 170-mile coastal alternative that skirts the Atlantic coastline through northern Portugal and Galicia — the edge of the known world in Roman times.
Days 1-3
With its Romanesque facade and ethereal blue azulejo tiling, Porto Cathedral makes for an eye-catching starting point. Divert to Matosinhos and follow the ocean along wooden walkways through landscapes of dunes, flowers and market gardens. Browse for lace in the old naval town of Vila do Conde, sample cod in 18th-century fishing port Póvoa de Varzim and watch kitesurfers off the protected shores of Esposende, en route towards Marinhas in far northern Portugal.
Days 4-7
This stretch turns from the sea to follow the Neiva River inland on a long, stone pathway. A magnificent iron bridge by Gustav Eiffel takes travellers over the Lima River into Viana do Castelo, where a funicular ascends to the Templo do Sagrado Coração de Jesus (‘Temple of the Sacred Heart of Jesus’), reminiscent of Paris’s Sacré Coeur. The path winds upward into eucalyptus forest, then back down to the ocean, passing coastal bastions and windmills to reach yet another river, the Minho, where a ferry crosses into Spain. On the far bank is A Guarda, famous for its lobster and for its ruins of an ancient Celtic shrine. Finish on the coast in Mougás.
Days 8-11
Further up the coast is the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Oia, once defended from attacking Turkish ships by Cistercian monks handy with cannons. The route here is nicknamed the Monastic Way in their honour. It weaves across to Baiona, the port that received first word of the New World from the returning ship La Pinta in 1493. Soak up the sea views, across floating mussel farms and the misty Cíes Islands in the Vigo estuary, before turning inland to join the classic Portuguese Way. Stop for oysters in the village of Arcade, then cross Ponte Sampaio bridge to the former Roman road that leads to Pontevedra.
Days 12-14
Pontevedra’s historic centre is worth exploring before the last push. Wander the gothic basilica of Santa María la Mayor and the Santo Domingo convent ruins before crossing bucolic Galician farmlands toward Caldas. Soak tired bones in thermal springs and refuel with a lamprey-filled empanada, then carry on to Padrón, the river port where the disciples are said to have first brought the body of Saint James. The end of this route follows the footsteps of Bishop Teodomiro, who found those remains some 900 years later and brought them to the resting place now known as Santiago de Compostela.
Itinerary two: The Original Way
This 200-mile trail is said to be the oldest of the Camino de Santiago routes, the first pilgrimage having been taken by Asturian King Alfonso II around 820 CE. It’s also the toughest way to go, but pilgrims are rewarded with glorious mountain views and hearty food.
Days 1-3
King Alfonso II commissioned Oviedo’s basilica, on the site of which now stands the Cathedral of San Salvador, marking the start of this route. From there, it’s into the hills, fortifying yourself with regional stews. Look across the valleys from the Nuestra Señora del Fresno (‘Our Lady of Fresno’) Sanctuary and rest beneath the fortified walls of Salas, the riverside ‘gateway to the west’ of Asturias. The path proceeds to Tineo through chestnut forest, passing vintage hórreos (stilted grain stores) and the ruins of a pilgrim hospital.
Days 4-7
Continue via Pola de Allande, where locals still speak Eonaviego (old Galician-Asturian). Stop to behold the 14th-century hilltop Palace of Cienfuegos de Peñalba, and try local Oscos cheese in Puerto del Palo. Then it’s down again to the Salime Reservoir and across to Grandas de Salime, the last stop in Asturias.
Days 8-11
Head onwards across Galicia on paths that are often monkishly hushed. A quiet trail through ancient oak groves leads to Castroverde’s 14th-century, 65ft-tall tower. Then Lugo rises like a vision, the evening sun glowing on Roman walls that encircle a town known for its good food and wine.
Days 12-14
Dirt roads flanked by chestnut trees pass by late-Roman ruins, including those of the temple of Santa Eulalia de Bóveda. Galician seafood is reliably terrific even this far inland, with octopus grilled to perfection in villages like Melide. Pilgrims connecting from the Northern and French Ways make the last stretch much busier, and groups pause, wonderstruck, at the oak-fringed hermitage of San Pedro and the monument atop Monte do Gozo. From there, you’ll see the spires of your final destination at Santiago de Compostela Cathedral — a sight that moves some to tears of religious humility or sheer, exhausted relief.
Itinerary three: the Sanabres way
While the Vía de la Plata is the best-known Camino de Santiago route from Andalucia (transposed over historic trails for traders and herders), the 220-mile Sanabres Way makes an appealing alternative. It’s quieter, a bit flatter and easier to do by bike, forming a chain of enigmatic monasteries through plains and forests and over high, remote passes.
Day 1-3
The Cistercian order built its first Iberian abbey just outside Granja de Moreruela in the 12th century. Today, the monastery’s ruins set the tone for this initial stretch of dirt roads and river crossings. You’ll find wineries dug out of clay amid the chestnut groves around Tábara, and of the two possible routes from Bercianos de Valverde towards Mombuey, the thyme-scented way through Villanueva de las Peras is more pleasant. Cyclists should also take the service road via the reservoir of Our Lady of Agavanzal, instead of the rougher trail, to the shrine of the same name, where a Napoleonic-era musket bullet was recently found embedded in an altarpiece.
Day 4-7
From Mombuey, another long phase alternates between deep woodlands, isolated meadows and busy national roads. Stop by the Iglesia de la Asuncion (‘Church of the Assumption’), with its looming belltower built by the Knights Templar in the 13th century, and rest in the shade of ancient oak and yew trees outside Requejo before climbing up and over the A Canda mountain pass, leaving Castile and León in the process. After a first taste of Galician-style grilled meat and seafood across the regional border in A Gudiña, cyclists usually proceed via Verín while hikers tend to take the shorter trail through remote mountain villages, descending steadily toward Laza.
Day 8-11
The path through unpopulated countryside leads you upward again, over the mountains of Requeixada and Talariño (the latter topped with a wooden cross). Then it’s slowly back down on dirt and asphalt surfaces to recuperate in the medicinal hot springs of Ourense, a storybook-pretty Roman town with a landmark bridge over the Miño River. Another hard climb out of this valley is made easier by the promise of an overnight in Cea, a village famed for its signature bread baked in special wood-burning granite ovens.
Day 12-14
Food again becomes the motivator on the journey through the pastoral idyll of the Deza valley, with the promise of cocido (chickpea stew with pork shoulder and chorizo) awaiting you in the town of Lalín. Fuel up before tackling the long, onwards section through pines and eucalyptus. It links to an ancient Roman road that makes the most beatific of all final approaches to the tomb of Saint James. Expend the last of your energy on climbing the peculiar pyramidal mountain Pico Sacro. It was here, legend has it, the disciples Atanasio and Teodoro defeated a dragon with a simple sign of the cross before continuing on to bury the body of the apostle.
How to travel: a practical guide
How fit do I need to be?
Some routes are harder than others, but a 14-day pilgrimage requires some conditioning. A few months before setting off, start taking incrementally longer walks (up to 15 miles per day), ideally with an ever-heavier backpack if you plan to carry your own bags.
Do I have to carry my own luggage?
Only if you want to. There’s no shame in booking luggage transfers via Spain’s state-owned postal service, Correos, or private providers like Pilbeo, which pick up and drop off bags for around €5-10 (£4-8) per stage of the route, leaving you to carry only a day pack. The first pilgrim, King Alfonso II, probably didn’t haul his own gear around either.
What essentials should I pack?
Waterproofs, sunscreen, a sun hat, a water bottle, a first-aid kit and comfy footwear are essential. For albergues (simple Camino hostels), pack a sleeping bag, a headlamp, earplugs, an eye mask and bed bug spray. Also bring plasters and merino wool socks.
Where will I sleep?
Most public albergues are run by the local municipality and charge less than €10 (£8) a night for a dorm bed, but they don’t take reservations. In busy season, consider booking into private albergues or guesthouses along the way.
Is walking the only way?
No. Cycling is a popular option, but only serious mountain bikers should try the Original Way. Horse-riding is doable, and fittingly old-fashioned, but takes experience and planning, so an organised tour is easiest. The Sail The Way initiative has also opened up the possibility of travelling between stages by yacht along the coast.
How does the accreditation system work?
|
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yago
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0
| 28
|
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2225372664/
|
en
|
Facebook
|
https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/rsrc.php/yb/r/hLRJ1GG_y0J.ico
|
https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/rsrc.php/yb/r/hLRJ1GG_y0J.ico
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Sieh dir auf Facebook Beiträge, Fotos und vieles mehr an.
|
de
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https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/rsrc.php/yb/r/hLRJ1GG_y0J.ico
|
https://www.facebook.com/login/
| ||||
17422
|
yago
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3
| 84
|
https://www.bigtextrailerworld.com/location/tucson/
|
en
|
Big Tex Trailers Locations
|
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2022-03-24T20:12:49+00:00
|
Big Tex Trailers offers trailers for sale in Tucson, AZ! Visit our store or call us today to learn more about our wide selection of trailer rentals & sales!
|
en
|
Big Tex Trailer World
|
https://www.bigtextrailerworld.com/location/tucson/
|
Welcome to Big Tex Trailer World Tucson
Sales • Service • Parts
Located in Southeastern Arizona, Big Tex Trailer World Tucson is your one-stop trailer shop. Conveniently located off I-10, our company continually works to ensure customer satisfaction. That’s why we have teamed up with the biggest names in the trailer industry, like Big Tex Trailers, CM Truck Beds, Pace American, CM Trailers and more. As part of the Big Tex Trailer World Network, our large inventory of trailers will help you deliver the goods when the job is on the line.
To avoid road construction, use Ruthrauff Road/El Camino Del Cerro exit & go West.
Using Maps for directions? Use Address 3150 W El Camino Del Cerro, Tucson, AZ 85745
|
|||||
17422
|
yago
|
0
| 86
|
https://www.spain.info/en/discover-spain/national-heritage-royal-sites/
|
en
|
Find out more about Spain's Royal National Heritage Sites
|
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[
"Turespaña"
] |
2024-03-14T11:42:00
|
Palaces, country residences, monasteries and forests that once belonged to the Crown and are now open to visitors in Madrid and other provinces | spain.info
|
en
|
/export/sites/segtur/.content/images/logo192.png
|
Spain.info
|
https://www.spain.info/en/discover-spain/national-heritage-royal-sites/
|
Madrid, El Escorial and Aranjuez
This impressive example of Spanish heritage is located in the Region of Madrid. One of the Spanish capital's most representative spaces is the historical complex of the Royal Palace in Madrid, built in the 18th century under the mandate of King Felipe V and the location for official ceremonies organised by the current King of Spain. At its feet are the gardens of Campo del Moro, a green oasis of more than 20 hectares and with free access all year round. In front of the palace, on one side of Plaza de Oriente, is the Royal Monastery of La Encarnación and, a short distance from Plaza de Ópera, the Royal Monastery of the Descalzas Reales; these architectural icons date back to the Spanish Habsburg dynasty of the 16th and 17th centuries.One of the most outstanding works of royal architect Juan Gómez de Mora is the Royal Monastery of Santa Isabel and another of the jewels in Madrid 's crown is, without a doubt, the Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida, adorned with frescoes by Francisco de Goya and where the remains of this famous painter were laid to rest. The Pantheon of Spain, next to the Royal Basilica of Atocha, is the final resting place of other illustrious Spaniards such as José Canalejas, Sagasta and Cánovas del Castillo.
Royal Palace in Madrid
The Royal Palace of El Pardo and the El Pardo Forest, considered the most important Mediterranean forest in the region and spanning almost 16,000 hectares, also form part of the network of Royal Sites. The palace, built by order of Henry IV, renovated during the time of Emperor Charles V and expanded by Charles III, houses tapestries by Goya and Bayeu and is currently used as the residence of foreign heads of state visiting Spain.Just 50 kilometers from Madrid, in the Sierra de Guadarrama, is the Royal Monastery of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. As a testament to Herrerian architecture, constructed under the watch of Juan de Herrera, it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO for capturing the ideological and cultural aspirations of the Spanish Golden Age. The La Herrería Forest is part of this imposing Royal Site and is included in the Natura 2000 Network for its incalculable landscape value and its faunal diversity.Another location declared a UNESCO World Heritage site is the Cultural Landscape of Aranjuez, home to the Royal Palace, the quintessential country residence of Spanish monarchs. It consists of fascinating places such as the Porcelain Cabinet, the Hall of Mirrors or the Prince's Gardens, with the Casa del Labrador and the Museum of Royal Feluccas, which houses a spectacular collection of pleasure boats. The Convent of San Pascual stands in the grounds of the Royal Site of Aranjuez; its church, which is open to the public, is presided over by a painting by Antonio Rafael Mengs.
Royal Palace in Aranjuez
Segovia, Burgos and Valladolid
The region of Castile and Leon boasts three essential destinations for continuing to explore Spain's Royal Sites. In the province of Segovia, you'll find the La Granja de San Ildefonso Royal Palace. It was the favorite palace, summer residence and retreat of Philip V. In addition, its Versailles-style gardens and fountains have splendid sculptural groups of Neptune, Apollo and Andromeda, among others. Just nine kilometers from the city of Segovia, is the Royal Palace of Riofrío, a lesser known site surrounded by a large forest of the same name that constitutes a natural space of extraordinary ecological value.A stop on the Camino de Santiago, Huelgas del Rey, in Burgos, is home to the Monastery of Santa María la Real de las Huelgas, founded in 1187; the Museum of Medieval Fabrics is one of its main attractions.The province of Valladolid, in turn, on the banks of the River Duero, is home to the impressive Royal Monastery of Santa Clara de Tordesillas, mixing Romanesque and Gothic architecture, in addition to containing elements of Mudejar art inherited from Andalusian culture.
La Granja de San Ildefonso Royal Palace
Other Real Sites to visit
The remaining Royal Sites are spread across four other Spanish regions: Extremadura, Andalusia, Castile la Mancha and the Balearic Islands. The Monastery of San Jerónimo de Yuste, in the province of Cáceres, is where Emperor Charles V of Germany and I of Spain spent his final days, on his final journey before passing away. Nestled in a privileged environment, a visit to the monastery includes the Cuarto Real, the church and the Gothic and Renaissance cloisters to which it plays host. The Cuarto Alto is one of the small palaces that were part of the Real Alcázar of Seville. This Royal Site located in the capital of Andalusia combines Nasrid, Toledo, Caliphate and Almohad architecture. It is currently the official residence of the King and Queen of Spain when they visit Seville.
Real Alcázar Palace of Seville
The capital of Castile-La Mancha, Toledo, is home to the Real Colegio de Doncellas Nobles, created to accommodate and educate young girls with limited resources. It consists of a beautiful cloister and a gallery towards the garden, the work of the 18th century Spanish architect Ventura Rodríguez, and a 16th century bas-relief of Vázquez the Elder in his church.Finally, the Royal Palace of La Almudaina, dating back to the 14th century, showcases the consecutive artistic styles witnessed on the island of Mallorca. Its very name pays testament to this, translating as citadel or walled enclosure in Arabic. The summer residence of Spain's current royal couple, La Almudaina preserves the structures of the Alcázar and its Arab baths. The rooms worth particular mention are the King's chapel, the San Jaime room, or its Gothic hall.
La Almudaina Royal Palace
|
||||
17422
|
yago
|
0
| 87
|
https://247valencia.com/jaime-i-valencia/
|
en
|
JAIME I (VALENCIA) • 24
|
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[
"247valencia"
] |
2021-10-09T11:56:25+00:00
|
##Jaime I, the man who re-conquered Valencia from the Moors, drew up the geo-political map of Spain’s Mediterranean coast which largely still exists today and was the founder of the old kingdom of Valencia. Jaime, or Jaume to his friends, was the man responsible for establishing Valencia with a separate identity from its neighbours and […]
|
en
|
24/7 Valencia
|
https://247valencia.com/jaime-i-valencia/
|
##Jaime I, the man who re-conquered Valencia from the Moors, drew up the geo-political map of Spain’s Mediterranean coast which largely still exists today and was the founder of the old kingdom of Valencia.
Jaime, or Jaume to his friends, was the man responsible for establishing Valencia with a separate identity from its neighbours and also largely down to him is all that surreal bickering about language, water and on which regional channel you choose to watch your Claude Van Damme films, farming news and weather reports.
In 1238 after conquering Majorca, Jaime finally realised his lifelong obsession; the re-conquest of Valencia from the Moors. To the disappointment of some of his Barons this, for Jaime, was not an expansion of the kingdom of Aragon but a Crusade and his campaign had been officially sanctioned as such by Pope Gregory IX. When Majorca and Valencia were conquered, he set them up as separate Kingdoms. It took him 15 years to gain control of the whole region starting in Peñiscola working his way down to the city of Valencia on to el Puig and down to Alcoy and Alicante.
He also went on to recapture Murcia which, due to a prior agreement he handed over to Alfonso X “The Wise”, king of Castile. “Wise” he might have been but he must also have been pretty careless as he immediately lost the territory again, so Jaime had to go in and conquer it a second time. Now, losing a large part of Spain once might be considered as unlucky but losing it twice means you’re just not focusing on your job.
Nevertheless, Alfonso managed to lose Murcia once more and Jaime had to conquer it for a third time, handing it back to Castile as agreed, probably chiding Alfonso with a “Now this time make sure you look after it properly!”.
To this day, Murcia marks the border of the Valencian/Catalan speaking world and the start of Castilian Spain. If Jaime had chosen not to keep his agreement with Alfonso (something which would have been understandable under the circumstances) things might have been different.
Apart from a short 15 year gap during the rule of El Cid, the Moors had controlled Valencia for over 500 years. Jaime’s re-conquest was part of a wider campaign to recover Spain from Muslim rule which had started in Asturias. It took 800 years to completely re-conquer what the Moors had taken in just 8.
By the time Jaime arrived, Moorish rule had become decadent and divided into small kingdoms …often fighting amongst themselves. They had lost any central power or purpose and were, in the end, relatively easy prey.
Jaime was born in 1208 in Montpellier, in the south of France. He was conceived under bizarre circumstances. His father, Pedro II of Aragon and his mother Maria of Montpellier had married for political reasons and couldn’t bear the sight of each other. A courtier aware of the need for an heir got the pair drunk and managed to get them into bed together, each one conned into thinking the other was some other lover they’d been after until it was too late. Jaime’s mother died a year after he was born and at the age of three his ‘loving’ father gave him up as a hostage after losing out in a quarrel with Simon de Monfort.
He was kept in de Monfort’s castle in Carcassonne until 1213 when, at the age of five, his own father died and he was proclaimed king of Aragon. Too young to take the throne immediately Jaime was brought up and educated by the Knights Templar, this must have been a very caring environment for a small child, a bit like being brought up by the SAS.
All this trauma toughened him up, which was just as well as throughout his adolescence he had to fight off members of his own family… who saw his throne as being up for grabs. Jaime himself fought and killed his uncle Pedro de Ahonés, in his own royal palace, during an attempt on his life at the age of just 15. By 19 years of age, he had gained complete control of the Aragon crown.
Perhaps because of his unstable childhood, Jaime always tried to be a loyal and loving father and this may be the key as to why he decided to divide up the lands he had conquered and create a border between Catalonia and Aragon which previously hadn’t existed. Jaime had 14 children from three wives and a long list of lovers. All his children, even those born out of wedlock, were given dynastic or aristocratic titles. His second wife Violante wanted to ensure the future of her sons Pedro, Jaime and Fernando in detriment to Alfonso her husband’s first heir from his previous marriage. In order to keep everyone happy, Jaime elected to create a kingdom for each of his four heirs which lead him to separate Aragon and Catalonia and establish Valencia and Majorca as distinct kingdoms with their own rights (Els Furs) and Government. In the event Alfonso and Fernando died before they could inherit their kingdoms but Jaime’s two surviving heirs Pedro III King of Aragon and Jaime King of Majorca maintained the borders that their father had put in place.
Jaime had also observed the difficulties involved in ruling a large unified kingdom such as France and realised he could exercise more control over four separate smaller Kingdoms. A divide and rule policy that, catalanistas would argue, still exists today and has always benefited the central Spanish Government. Whatever his reasons the idea was very unpopular with the Catalan and Aragones nobility whose objective was the creation of a greater Aragon or greater Catalonia. A policy that, in turn, anti-catalanistas would argue still exists today. Some Catalans consistently claim Valencia and the Balearic islands as their own (something that doesn’t always go down too well in Valencia and Majorca). To this day, all four regions incorporate the Aragon crown’s four red stripes on a yellow background into their flags but each region has a separate identity often at odds with each other.
Jaime’s legacy goes further than just a few lines on the map. He populated his newly conquered lands with Aragoneses and Catalans (although, in Valencia, at least, the Muslim population remained in the majority for years to come) who brought their language with them.
Jaime made his court in Valencia and under his protection Valencian-Catalan was nurtured and given a status on a par with Latin and it was in Valencia that it first became a literary language leading to the publication of Ramon Lull’s “Llibre de les Besties”. He created a parliamentary system and institutions like the Generalitat, which still exist today. He opened the Consulats del Mar in Barcelona and Valencia, institutions which would control trade in the western Mediterranean for centuries to come.
Even today, Jaime is big news. The 9th of October, the day Valencians celebrate his victory over the Moors always brings up old arguments about language and national identity. A few years back, Jaime was in the headlines with the proposal to rename the Plaza del Ayuntamiento as Plaza Rey Jaime I. The square is a bit of a political football in itself as it has been renamed five times in the last century depending on the political climate. Jaime may be the choice that finally sticks as the only person who can unite the wide spectrum of Valencian opinion.
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https://www.eatlivetravelwrite.com/2019/07/walking-the-camino-de-santiago-el-acebo-to-ponferrada/
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Walking the Camino de Santiago: El Acebo to Ponferrada
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] | null |
[
"Mardi Michels"
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2019-07-25T06:00:00-04:00
|
Walking the Camino de Santiago: El Acebo to Ponferrada with Camino Travel Center
|
en
|
eat. live. travel. write. | culinary adventures, near and far
|
https://www.eatlivetravelwrite.com/2019/07/walking-the-camino-de-santiago-el-acebo-to-ponferrada/
|
Those of you who follow me on Instagram will know that this summer (2019) I’m walking 200km along the Camino de Santiago, from Léon to Sarría in Spain. This is the fourth leg of the Camino which I started in 2016 (if you’re interested, I wrote a Q&A post in response to some of the questions people had asked me along the way that year), I’m completing a leg each summer until 2020. This is Day 30 (other posts linked at the end of this post).
Camino Frances Day 30: El Acebo to Ponferrada (approx 15 km)
This was, again, a shorter day today – I’d built in some “well under 20km” days and had been looking forward to this one, in particular the prospect of arriving in Ponferrada – a larger town that sounded interesting with a history that included the Knights Templar.
I took it easy today, mostly because I knew it was a short day but also because the terrain wasn’t exactly easy for a lot of the day… Started out ok…
but soon turned into this…
Pretty to look at – hard to walk on!
Approaching Molinaseca, this was the situation…
Uh, yeah… kinda rough. And lopsided! Really challenging to walk on! As I entered the town of Molinaseca though, I had a little greeting party!
And beautiful views as I came to the town centre…
And more friends to keep me company for my morning coffee…
Stayed just long enough for my morning coffee before I pressed on…
A little bit of this was on the road today but later on, closer to the city it was a little bit confusing…
It seemed there was a path (there was) but wasn’t sure if it was the Camino… and I was all alone for a number of kilometres, seemingly walking through people’s fields… Then all of a sudden…
Ponferrada appeared!
And I didn’t realise it but I’d arrived in town on the first day of the the Knights Templar Festival!
Whoh! I retreated to my hotel room and read a little bit about it, figuring if I napped enough in the afternoon I might be able to manage to stay awake for the ceremony later on (at, like 9-10pm which is pretty much well past my bedtime when I am on the Camino!).
I rested then headed out around 6pm to check out the town… It’s GORGEOUS!
I started noticing things for sale in the stores, pointing to a mass participation in the Festival…
Um, ok.
I did a bit of people watching…
And picknicked in my room because, being a “big town’, Ponferrada doesn’t strictly cater to the pilgrims wanting to eat at 7pm! After my picnic I headed out, thrilled to discover the gelatería across the street had finally opened (around 8pm!).
And then I followed the crowd (and the camera crew!)..
Everyone was headed to the Castle…
It was fascinating and a little eerie!
(excuse the zoomed in image…)
Ok so what was going on? Apparently, this….
Under the moonlight of the first full moon in the summer. Fray Guido de Garda, Master of the Order of the Templar Knights, comes back to the city of the Iron Bridge to seal an eternal pact of friendship and give it the custody of the symbols found in the holy land of Jerusalem: the sacred Ark of the Covenant and the Holy Grail.
After greeting the procession of Templars, thousands of people from Ponferrada dressed in medieval clothes walk up to the Castle looking after the Ark of the Covenant and the Holy Grail.
I also read that the kids in the procession were “recreating town life” of the medieval times but somewhere else read that this was an “induction” (possibly a reenactment) to the Order. All a little confusing (and couldn’t exactly find much online) but certainly fun to be there for!
Verdict: LOVED my time in the “big city” and thrilled it coincided with the Festival! Was lovely to have SO much time in a town (I arrived at 11.30!) to wander and not be rushed and tired!
Stay tuned for the next leg which takes us to Villafrance del Bierzo.
_________
Disclosure: I researched Camino trips independently and chose the Camino Travel Center based on a number of features such as flexibility to accommodate a couple of “splits” in some of the longer days, price and customer service. They were, in fact the first company I came across in my very first Google search and the one I ended up booking with. From the initial inquiry to the actual trips, they have been a pleasure to deal with and we have been very impressed with the service provided (bag transportation) and the accommodation choices. I was not compensated to write about this trip in any way but I love sharing companies and products I believe in with my readers. I couldn’t recommend the Camino Travel Center more and, in fact, am booking my last Camino walk with them for next summer (the summer I will finally reach Santiago!).
Read more about the Camino de Santiago
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https://www.theringer.com/tv/2019/10/14/20913756/el-camino-breaking-bad-easter-eggs
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All of the Callbacks and Easter Eggs in ‘El Camino’
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2019-10-14T00:00:00
|
A compilation of every wink and nod the movie makes to ‘Breaking Bad’
|
en
|
https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/8991993/favicon.0.ico
|
The Ringer
|
https://www.theringer.com/tv/2019/10/14/20913756/el-camino-breaking-bad-easter-eggs
|
After more than six years, El Camino finally brought us back to the night that Walter White died. Series spinoff and prequel Better Call Saul has turned out to be a great accompaniment to Breaking Bad, but ever since the show’s finale, fans have craved a look at the world in the wake of the fall of the Heisenberg empire.
Breaking Bad, as well as Better Call Saul, is full of easter eggs and subtle details that have fueled elaborate fan theories on Reddit for years now. Whether it’s the symbolism of various colors, or the ways in which Walt takes on the traits of his victims after he kills them, creator Vince Gilligan has designed a world worth revisiting over and over again.
El Camino is no different, and even after watching the film a couple of times this past weekend, I’m sure there are still many hidden references I have yet to find. There are plenty of fan-service moments that Gilligan put out in plain sight, others that certainly appear to be Breaking Bad references, and a few that really could just be nothing at all. Here, we’ll do our best to compile every yell, nod, and wink in the movie. Let’s go hunting for some Easter eggs.
Definitely an Easter Egg
Flashback With Mike
In El Camino’s opening scene, we see a past conversation between Mike Ehrmantraut and Jesse. The setting should look familiar; the riverbank where they’re meeting is the same one where Walt shoots Mike in Season 5’s “Say My Name.” Mike and Jesse are discussing what their plans are, now that they’re both retiring, and Mike tells Jesse that, if he was in Jesse’s shoes, he would go to Alaska. The two formed a special bond over the series; Mike saw the good in Jesse and tried to look out for him, doing his best to warn him about the danger of working with Walt. It’s only fitting that Jesse’s new Alaskan life as Mr. Driscoll was inspired by Mike himself.
Saul Goodman’s Office/Los Pollos Hermanos
In a series of quick transition shots near the beginning of the film, we get glimpses of the modern forms of a couple of crucial Breaking Bad buildings: Los Pollos Hermanos and Saul Goodman’s office. With Gustavo Fring long gone, the original Hermanos location from the series is no more, with the real-life restaurant Twisters set up in its place. And with Saul off doling out Cinnabons somewhere, his office is gone too, as the strip mall where it was located is shown missing the iconic inflatable Statue of Liberty that once stood above it.
Magnets!
While Jesse is trying to figure out what to do with Todd Alquist’s El Camino, he calls up Old Joe, the clever junkyard owner who helped get Walt and Jesse out of several binds over the years. Joe reenacts an iconic Jesse Pinkman moment from Season 5’s “Live Free or Die,” when Jesse comes up with the plan to use magnets to wipe the data on Gus’s impounded laptop. Joe leaves out a pretty crucial word in his account of the story, but forgive him, it’s been a while.
Holly Ave & Arroz Road
A long shot focuses on the cross streets of Todd’s apartment, revealing his address to be at the intersection of Holly Ave and Arroz Road. Since “arroz” translates to “rice” in Spanish, this Easter egg is just a shout-out from Vince Gilligan to his longtime girlfriend, Holly Rice.
Todd’s Apartment
Todd’s “pastel” apartment—which definitely isn’t creepy at all—is full of Easter eggs. So many, in fact, that Todd even considered painting them right onto the walls themselves:
There’s a Vamonos Pest shirt lying around, which is the shady pest control company that Todd works for when we first meet him in Season 5.
There’s also Todd’s pet tarantula, formerly owned by a young boy named Drew Sharp, the poor kid who happens to witness Walt, Jesse, and Todd’s train heist in Season 5’s “Dead Freight” before Todd shoots him.
As Jesse rips apart Todd’s apartment in search of a money stash, there’s a quick callback to the iconic Season 4 shot of Walt lying in the crawl space underneath his house:
And last, but certainly not least, there’s Todd’s snowglobe collection, with one piece that stands out in particular:
Here we find a figurine of Todd, on the left, with a little mug in front of him, and on the right, we have Lydia Rodarte-Quayle, sitting atop a giant cup of tea. It appears to be a re-creation of the meetings the two would have in Lydia’s favorite café, back when they were running Walt’s meth empire before his disappearance in Season 5. Todd never hid his affection for the uninterested Lydia, so it’s not very surprising that he bottled up one of their shared moments so it could exist forever in snowglobe form. If that’s not (unrequited) love, I don’t know what is.
Jesse and the Beetle
Throughout the course of Breaking Bad, Jesse shows an affinity for children and animals; he always does his best to protect the innocent despite his line of work. In the opening scene to Season 2’s “Peekaboo,” while Jesse is waiting for Skinny Pete to show up and provide him with Spooge’s address so he can reclaim their stolen meth, Jesse notices a beetle crawling beside his feet. He looks down, picks it up in his hand, smiles, and sets it back down peacefully, only for Pete to show up and immediately stomp it into oblivion. And in El Camino, Jesse picks up and gently releases another beetle the very same way. Despite everything he’s been through, that part of Jesse remains intact.
Lydia’s Demise
The last phone call we ever see Walter White take in Breaking Bad is one from his former business associate, Lydia, in the last minutes of the series finale. After Walt shoots up the neo-Nazis and Jesse gets revenge on Todd, Walt walks over to pick up Todd’s ringing cellphone (which, naturally, has a custom ringtone set for Lydia’s number). Walt proudly reveals to Lydia that he poisoned her with ricin, and in El Camino, we get a quick update on her health, courtesy of the radio: “Texas authorities investigating the poisoning of a Houston woman are looking into her possible connection to Walter White’s criminal organization. The unnamed woman, who is hospitalized in critical condition, is not expected to survive.” It sounds like Lydia won’t be pulling through after all, but hey, at least she’s already been immortalized in a pretty sweet snowglobe.
Brock Cantillo
Brock goes through a lot thanks to his association with Jesse; his mother is killed by Todd, and he is poisoned by Walt. Brock’s whereabouts after Andrea’s murder are one of the many loose ends left after the series, and while El Camino does little to resolve it, Brock is referenced several times throughout the film. The most important mention comes after Jesse has finally made it out of New Mexico to start a new life. Jesse’s last—and only—goodbye is to Brock, by way of a written letter that Ed says he’s going to mail in a month.
“4 Days Out”
In a perfectly nostalgic flashback, Bryan Cranston finally reprises his role as Heisenberg, as we find Walt and Jesse exiting their separate rooms in a motel before grabbing a meal at a diner. This scene is meant to take place after the duo made it out of the desert after getting stranded during a long cooking session in Season 2’s “4 Days Out.” It serves as a reminder of how much both Jesse and Walt changed since their days spent together in the RV.
The scene also, graciously, provides us with Jesse’s only utterance of what was once his favorite word:
Georgia O’Keeffe Museum Trip
As Jesse drives away from his former life toward a new one in Alaska, he thinks back to a conversation he had with Jane about free will. It’s the final flashback of the film, calling back to Season 3’s “Abiquiu” opening scene. Jesse tells her that he likes her philosophy to go “where the universe takes you.” But Jane disagrees: “I was being metaphorical. It’s a terrible philosophy,” she replies flatly. “I’ve gone where the universe takes me my whole life. It’s better to make those decisions for yourself.” No longer living under Walt’s tyrannical rule or held prisoner by a group of neo-Nazis, Jesse’s redemption arc is fully realized in El Camino, as he’s finally taken full control of his own life.
Could Be an Easter Egg
Foreshadowing Todd’s Death
Though it takes some time, we eventually find out that the main reason Todd has taken Jesse to his apartment is so Jesse can help him dispose of the dead body lying on his kitchen floor. In a potential foreshadowing to Todd’s future demise, Todd reveals that he had strangled his cleaning lady to death with a belt. After being broken out of imprisonment in the series finale, Jesse uses the chain he’d been locked up in to choke Todd.
LoJack
In what would have otherwise been a quick escape for Jesse, the LoJack car recovery system installed to Todd’s El Camino activates as Old Joe is inspecting the vehicle the morning after Jesse’s liberation. Joe immediately flees, and Jesse, Skinny Pete, and Badger have to improvise a new plan. The LoJack system is potentially a callback to Jesse’s LoJacked Cap’n Cook mobile in Season 2, which Hank uses to unwittingly find a wounded Tuco Salamanca.
Cheeto Dust
“Smoking marijuana, eating cheetos, and masturbating do not constitute plans in my book,” Walt tells Jesse in response to him saying that he has “plans” and therefore can’t go shopping for cooking supplies back in Season 2. Walt, of course, was being a dick to Jesse as usual, since Jesse actually did have plans to go on a trip to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum with Jane. But funnily enough, that’s more or less what we find Jesse’s best friends doing in El Camino, as Skinny Pete complains to Badger that his video game controller is defective due to all the Cheeto dust stuck in it. And the morning after, Badger offers Jesse weed to “take the edge off.” Walt may have been an all-around terrible guy, but he was right about a thing or two.
License Plate
In the opening scene of the Season 5 premiere, we find a fully haired Walt assuming a new identity as a man from New Hampshire. As Walt opens up the trunk to a Volvo that contains the keys to the car that holds the machine gun he’d just purchased, there’s a shot of the Volvo’s license plate, which displays the New Hampshire state motto and the namesake of the episode: “Live Free or Die.” In El Camino, Alaska’s state nickname, “The Last Frontier,” serves a similar purpose, as Mike refers to it as such in the aforementioned opening scene with Jesse, and it appears again on the license plate of Jesse’s new car as he rides off to freedom.
Throwing Shit Against the Wall (or Pizza on the Roof)
Todd’s Pizza Offering
After a long day out of the cage with Todd, Jesse finally gets his chance to escape when he finds a gun in the El Camino glove compartment. He proceeds to aim the gun at Todd, but can’t bring himself to pull the trigger. As Todd tries to calm down Jesse, he tells him that he had been planning on picking up some pizza on the way back home. “What kind of pizza do you like, Jesse?” Todd asks him. “Pepperoni,” Jesse finally responds, before handing over the gun.
Back in Season 3, pizza—specifically pepperoni—was used in Walt’s attempt to make amends with Skyler and the family after he gets kicked out of the house. The plan definitely worked out better for Todd.
“Let’s Both Go Sideways for a While”
In what could be a callback to Walt and Jesse’s methylamine barrel heist in the Season 1 finale, when the two put on a comical display of their inexperience in the breaking-and-entering business, Todd and Jesse share a similar moment in one of the flashbacks at Todd’s apartment. “What are you better at, going forwards or backwards?” Todd asks Jesse as they try to work out how they’re going to carry the roof of Todd’s El Camino. “Okay, well, let’s both go sideways for a while.” The car top is not nearly as heavy as that massive methylamine barrel, and they’re not wearing fuzzy green and red ski masks either, but the moment is a funny reminder of a simpler time when Jesse and Walt had absolutely no clue what they were doing.
The Fly
Could this fly be a reference to the infamous bug that wreaked havoc in Gus’s lab back in Season 3, Episode 10?? Eh, probably not. Either way, at least it didn’t take up more than 40 minutes of screen time this time around.
|
||||
17422
|
yago
|
0
| 29
|
https://www.rottentomatoes.com/celebrity/jaime_camino
|
en
|
Jaime Camino
|
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Explore the filmography of Jaime Camino on Rotten Tomatoes! Discover ratings, reviews, and more. Click for details!
|
en
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https://www.rottentomatoes.com/assets/pizza-pie/images/favicon.ico
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Rotten Tomatoes
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https://www.rottentomatoes.com/celebrity/jaime_camino
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17422
|
yago
|
3
| 9
|
https://www.artelista.com/en/artwork/7843778181357313-el-camino.html
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en
|
el camino Jaime Jaimes
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[
"Jaime Jaimes"
] | null |
Buy el camino - Painting from Jaime Jaimes for 363,00 EUR on Artelista.com, with free shipping and return worldwide
|
en
|
Artelista
|
https://www.artelista.com/en/artwork/7843778181357313-el-camino.html
|
Free and safe delivery
When you purchase art at Artelista, you have at your disposal thousands of artworks by artists from around the world, from up to 170 different countries, , and we don't want the delivery costs to be a problem when you want to enjoy the best art. The price shown at the artwork page is its final price, without surprises. Additionally, for your tranquility, the artwork is insured with the company Allianz Insurances during shipping, so we will handle everything if, unfortunately, the artwork is damaged before being delivered.
The estimated delivery time for Artelista fine art prints is 5-7 working days, whereas in the case of original artworks, it would vary depending on the origin country. Once the artist notifies us the artwork is ready for shipment, the delivery will be in the following 24-72 hours, These delivery times may be altered by custom clearance events, especially when the origin country of the artwork belongs to a different cross-national agreement (EU,NAFTA,etc.). here. Shipments from Argentina, Colombia or Cuba need of a special authorization for the exportation of artworks, so it is important to have this into account when calculating the delivery date.
Bear in mind we are dealing with works of art, so they may be in an exhibition (actually, this is awesome!). Those artworks which are in an exhibition are usually displayed as “non-available”. In case the artwork has been put up for sale, take into account the artist would have to manage with the organization of the exhibition the return of the artwork in order to be able to realize the shipment.
Enjoy Artelista, enjoy art
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17422
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yago
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3
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https://ew.com/movies/best-thrillers-on-netflix/
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en
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The 24 best thriller movies on Netflix (August 2024)
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"Ilana Gordon",
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"James Mercadante",
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2022-06-13T10:00:00-04:00
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From well-known blockbusters to smaller sleepers, here are 24 films filled with enough thrills and chills to for your viewing pleasure.
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/favicon.ico
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EW.com
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https://ew.com/movies/best-thrillers-on-netflix/
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01 of 24
American Psycho (2000)
Meet the carefully curated facade of Patrick Bateman — a man who not only slays a morning skincare routine but also, well, slays. Adapted from Bret Easton Ellis' controversial 1991 novel, American Psycho follows Bateman as he leads a double life, hobnobbing with his narcissistic co-workers as a slick N.Y.C. investment banker while moonlighting as a serial killer.
This satirical horror brilliantly dissects the soulless '80s capitalist culture, where materialism reigns supreme and vanity is a virtue, while Christian Bale conjures a monumental character study with his mordant and monstrous Bateman. EW's critic writes, "Funny, pungent, and weirdly gripping, American Psycho is a satire that feels like a hallucination" draped in a "tone of rambunctious, light-fingered malevolence." —James Mercadante
Where to watch American Psycho: Netflix
EW grade: N/A (read the review)
Director: Mary Harron
Cast: Christian Bale, Willem Dafoe, Jared Leto, Josh Lucas, Chloë Sevigny, Samantha Mathis, Cara Seymour, Justin Theroux, Reese Witherspoon
02 of 24
Anon (2018)
Privacy and anonymity are luxuries afforded to no one in the 2018 British-American sci-fi thriller Anon. Clive Owen stars as Det. Sal Frieland, a troubled cop operating in a dystopia where the entire populace is implanted with an ocular device intended to record and track the movements of the people around them. The government's transparency methods ensure that all criminal activity is caught on tape — but when a mysterious woman with no digital footprint (Amanda Seyfried) crosses paths with Sal, he realizes she might have a connection with a series of unsolved murders he's investigating.
Director Andrew Niccol tells EW, "I always wanted to do a movie about privacy and the fact that there was never a war for privacy because we already lost — we gave away our privacy without a fight, all for convenience." —Ilana Gordon
Where to watch Anon: Netflix
EW grade: B– (read the review)
Director: Andrew Niccol
Cast: Clive Owen, Amanda Seyfried, Colm Feore, Mark O'Brien
03 of 24
A Simple Favor (2018)
There’s nothing simple about the plot to A Simple Favor, a thriller about a mommy blogger’s (Anna Kendrick) quest to find her friend Emily (Blake Lively) who disappears under mysterious circumstances. A romantic thriller with a fair amount of dark comedy thrown in courtesy of director Paul Feig, A Simple Favor benefits from excellent performances, Hitchcockian vibes, and a duplicitous tension that carries the audience through the film’s many zig and zags — even the ones that fail to pay off.
As EW’s critic writes, the movie is “full of panache, from its sexy French score to its glistening gin martinis, and it weaponizes style, using it to keep audiences off balance as the mystery unfolds.” Enjoy A Simple Favor, and keep an eye out for the sequel, which was greenlit in March of 2024. —I.G.
Where to watch A Simple Favor: Netflix
EW grade: B+ (read the review)
Director: Paul Feig
Cast: Anna Kendrick, Blake Lively, Henry Golding, Andrew Rannells, Linda Cardellini, Rupert Friend, Jean Smart
04 of 24
Bird Box (2018)
Sight becomes a handicap in Bird Box, a post-apocalyptic thriller where the enemy must go unseen, or else. Sandra Bullock stars as Malorie Hayes, a woman responsible for transporting two young children down a river while wearing blindfolds, a strategy intended to help the survivors avoid seeing the entities that attacked Earth five years earlier, and who cause those who look upon them to commit suicide.
Jumping between their present journey and the past events that led Malorie and the children to this point, director Susanne Bier leans into the tension of the unknown and relies on her talented but eclectic cast to do the rest. Released the same year as A Quiet Place, and possessing a somewhat similar premise, Bird Box received less attention when it first premiered, but this sci-fi horror film is a great option for fans of both genres. —I.G.
Where to watch Bird Box: Netflix
EW grade: B (read the review)
Director: Susanne Bier
Cast: Sandra Bullock, Trevante Rhodes, John Malkovich, Danielle Macdonald, Sarah Paulson
05 of 24
Captain Phillips (2013)
Inspired by the Maersk Alabama hijacking incident in 2009 where four Somali pirates seized a U.S. cargo ship sailing through the Indian Ocean, Captain Phillips features the expected tour de force performance from Tom Hanks, while also debuting an astonishing new face, and staying true to the story on which the film is based. Hanks takes on the role of Capt. Richard Phillips, a man who squares off with pirates armed only with his thick Massachusetts accent. Meanwhile newcomer Barkhad Abdi, who plays the desperate pirate leading the raid on Phillips' ship, balances violence with vulnerability in an Oscar-nominated turn.
The kind of film where you find yourself rooting for the heroes while still empathizing with the villains, Captain Phillips' performances and script are tough enough to navigate the most dangerous waters. —I.G.
Where to watch Captain Phillips: Netflix
EW grade: B+ (read the review)
Director: Paul Greengrass
Cast: Tom Hanks, Catherine Keener, Barkhad Abdi
06 of 24
The Devil All the Time (2020)
A Netflix original and period thriller, The Devil All the Time explores several interconnected groups of people living in two small towns in Southern Ohio between the end of World War II and the mid-1960s. Linked by religious evangelism, war, corruption, suicide, abandonment, and serial murder, the cast — which includes a host of young Hollywood heavy hitters — makes the most of the story's melodrama and dark subject matter.
Based on the 2011 novel and directed by Antonio Campos (The Staircase), The Devil All the Time takes the "all the time" portion of the film's title literally: the sins are multitudinous and the depths of human depravity on full display. Still, EW's critic writes that Campos' biggest accomplishment as the film's director is "toeing a tricky line between art-house atmosphere and Southern Gothic soap opera, and somehow still managing to land on the grim side of fascinating." —I.G.
Where to watch The Devil All the Time: Netflix
EW grade: B+ (read the review)
Director: Antonio Campos
Cast: Tom Holland, Robert Pattinson, Sebastian Stan, Riley Keough, Eliza Scanlen, Haley Bennett, Bill Skarsgård, Mia Wasikowska, Jason Clarke
07 of 24
El Camino (2019)
The best meth cook in Albuquerque is back, bitch. Breaking Bad's Walter White (Bryan Cranston) and Jesse Pinkman (Aaron Paul) return for El Camino, a film based on AMC's beloved show, with far more attention paid to Pinkman's character. Freewheeling through time and flashing back to events depicted in the series, El Camino picks up right where Breaking Bad left off, and includes a host of cameos from the show's five-season run.
Jane, Skinny Pete, and Badger are all back in one form or another, but it's Nazi Todd (Jesse Plemons) who informs most of the film's plot. Breaking Bad fans will be gratified to see Jesse Pinkman finally get the time to mentally process the last couple years of his life — even if Paul looks markedly older than he did when the show wrapped in 2013. —I.G.
Where to watch El Camino: Netflix
EW grade: B+ (read the review)
Director: Vince Gilligan
Cast: Bryan Cranston, Aaron Paul, Jesse Plemons, Jonathan Banks, Matt Jones
08 of 24
Emily the Criminal (2022)
Drowning in debt and student loans, Emily is one of Los Angeles' many broke artists on the verge of financial ruin. With a former felony conviction preventing her from finding a job that might pay enough to survive, Emily finds purpose — and quick cash — by getting involved with a credit card fraud ring. What starts as a survival tactic soon balloons into much more, as Emily distances herself from the corporate world she can never quite crack and leans into the world of criminality.
Aubrey Plaza is in her element here, her blunt practicality and signature deadpan delivery serving as the perfect stand-in for an audience whose dreams of hitting milestones like home ownership and retirement have been deadened by current economic realities. —I.G.
Where to watch Emily the Criminal: Netflix
EW grade: B+ (read the review)
Director: John Patton Ford
Cast: Aubrey Plaza, Theo Rossi, Bernardo Badillo, John Billingsley
09 of 24
Fair Play (2023)
For newly engaged couple Luke (Alden Ehrenreich) and Emily (Phoebe Dynevor), their sizzling, can't-keep-their-hands-off-each-other love must remain discreet within their workplace. However, when Emily secures a managerial position at their dog-eat-dog hedge fund, the power shift within the bullpen begins to splinter their romantic bliss.
Praising its "lean, crackling script," EW's critic observes how Fair Play's final act is "so freighted with increasingly unhinged possibilities" yet "both leads hang on, throwing themselves headlong into the tar pits of contemporary workplace politics and gender roles without being drawn into clumsy, one-dimensional ideas of victimhood or villainy." —J.M.
Where to watch Fair Play: Netflix
EW grade: B+ (read the review)
Director: Chloe Domont
Cast: Phoebe Dynevor, Alden Ehrenreich, Eddie Marsan, Rich Sommer
10 of 24
The Gift (2015)
Not to be confused with Sam Raimi's 2000 fortune teller movie, Joel Edgerton's directorial debut (which he also wrote and starred in) starts out like a typical stalker thriller. Jason Bateman and Rebecca Hall play Simon and Robyn, a married couple who move from Chicago to California, where they run into Simon's old high school classmate Gordo (Edgerton). Gordo soon becomes clingy, with frequent unexpected drop-ins, and floods the couple with a series of unsettling gifts. When Simon tries to cut the relationship off, the trouble starts in earnest.
As EW's critic colorfully describes, The Gift "effectively sees what other films in the genre do for their scares, shakes its head, and says, 'No, no, no. I'll show you messed up.'" But The Gift transcends the usual stalker movie tropes because it's not content to stack all the blame on the obvious heavy. Instead, it expands on the concepts of villain and victim, exploring how difficult it is sometimes to keep the past in the past. —I.G.
Where to watch The Gift: Netflix
EW grade: N/A (read the review)
Director: Joel Edgerton
Cast: Jason Bateman, Rebecca Hall, Joel Edgerton, Tim Griffin, Allison Tolman, Katie Aselton, Wendell Pierce, Beau Knapp, Adam Lazarre-White, David Denman, P.J. Byrne, Busy Philipps
11 of 24
The Good Nurse (2022)
Nurses are angels with the power to do the work of demons. In the Netflix original psychological thriller The Good Nurse, Amy Loughren (Jessica Chastain) is a night nurse with a work husband: Charles Cullen (Eddie Redmayne). A single mom with a serious heart condition, Amy is shocked to learn that the recent death of one of their hospital's patients is thought to have occurred intentionally, and that Charles might be involved. And the more Amy digs, the more she realizes the co-worker she trusts is actually someone far more nefarious.
Based on the true story of how the real-life Amy Loughren helped authorities take down serial killer Charles Cullen, The Good Nurse is good old-fashioned, ripped-from-the-headlines cinema with a story made all the more terrifying because so little of it is exaggerated. Trust us — you've never seen Eddie Redmayne like this before. —I.G.
Where to watch The Good Nurse: Netflix
EW grade: B+ (read the review)
Director: Tobias Lindholm
Cast: Jessica Chastain, Eddie Redmayne
12 of 24
I Care A Lot (2021)
Rosamund Pike builds on her Gone Girl villainess status to portray Marla Grayson, a con artist who fronts as a professional "legal guardian" to fleece the elderly of their life savings. But Marla takes it a step too far when she meets Jennifer Peterson (Dianne Wiest), who seems infirm at first but actually has ties to important, dangerous people (like Peter Dinklage) who Marla would do well to stay clear of. Pike's duplicitous performance is a blast to witness, but seeing Marla meet her match is just as gratifying. As EW's writes in their review, "There's good fun in I Care a Lot's setup, and in Marla's ruthless M.O." —Gwen Ihnat
Where to watch I Care a Lot: Netflix
EW grade: B (read the review)
Director: J Blakeson
Cast: Rosamund Pike, Dianne Wiest, Peter Dinklage, Eiza González, Chris Messina, Isiah Whitlock Jr.
13 of 24
I Don't Feel At Home In This World Anymore (2017)
After Yellowjackets, Togetherness, and Mrs. America, we'd straight-up watch Melanie Lynskey in anything, but even we missed Macon Blair's 2017 sleeper. Lynskey plays Ruth, a down-on-her-luck nursing assistant who decides after her house gets broken into that she's fed up. She hooks up with her odd neighbor Tony (Elijah Wood) to go out on a quest to get her stuff back, leading to a quirky journey that's both suspenseful and inspiring for the downtrodden.
Second only to Lynskey in luminescence in this movie is Wood, whose Tony named his dog Kevin and specializes in nunchucks and ninja stars. And Jane Levy is unrecognizable as one of the unsavory thieves. As EW's critic points out, the film won the Grand Jury Prize at the Sundance Film Festival for its reconfiguration of "the buddy-cop film — at one point, Ruth even flashes a toy police badge." —G.I.
Where to watch I Don't Feel at Home in This World Anymore: Netflix
EW grade: B+ (read the review)
Director: Macon Blair
Cast: Melanie Lynskey, Elijah Wood, Jane Levy
14 of 24
The Little Things (2021)
The Little Things spent more than 25 years in development hell before finally making its way into production in 2019. And while the film may have cycled through several different directors in its early years (including Steven Spielberg and Clint Eastwood), the story never deviated from the ‘90s time period during which it was written and set.
Genre lovers who value conclusive endings and mysteries tied up in neat little bows may find themselves disappointed by The Little Things’ climax — or lack thereof. But thriller fans who can appreciate obsessive detectives, a slow burn plot, and a trio of strong actors — Denzel Washington, Rami Malek, Jared Leto — who know how to bounce off each other and play up the story’s intensity, will find much to enjoy in this suspenseful thriller. —I.G.
Where to watch The Little Things: Netflix
EW grade: B (read the review)
Director: John Lee Hancock
Cast: Denzel Washington, Rami Malek, Jared Leto, Natalie Morales
15 of 24
Lou (2022)
Allison Janney knows how to deliver a line, and thanks to stunt training for her new Netflix film, Lou, she also knows how to deliver a punch. Janney stars as the film's titular character, a misandrist landlord who rents a home to a single mother named Hannah (Jurnee Smollett) and her young daughter, Vee. After Vee is kidnapped, Lou agrees to help Hannah bring her back, but saving Vee's future will require Lou to confront her own messy past.
Director Anna Foerster asked a lot of her cast during production, as evidenced by the fact that both Smollett and Janney spend much of the film covered in mud. (Smollett tells EW, "The mud is a character in itself!") As for Janney, she hopes this role will showcase her rarely-seen physical abilities — and maybe land her a role in the next John Wick movie. —I.G.
Where to watch Lou: Netflix
Director: Anna Foerster
Cast: Allison Janney, Jurnee Smollett, Logan Marshall-Green
16 of 24
Missing (2023)
One might have suspected that the novelty of "screenlife" thrillers had run its course after Searching (2018), but Will Merrick and Nick Johnson exalted the genre with its standalone sequel, Missing: a story about a teenager (Storm Reid) investigating her mother's (Nia Long) disappearance in Colombia via all her digital resources. While the film's logic sometimes flirts with absurdity, the infinite pathways of the internet prove to be an imaginative tool for peeling back the mystery's myriad layers.
Glowing with a sharp and witty portrayal of 2023's techno-centric culture, Missing grounds itself with a heartfelt journey of repairing a strained mother-daughter relationship. (And when the credits roll, you might want to reconsider using the same password for everything!) —J.M.
Where to watch Missing: Netflix
EW grade: B+ (read the review)
Directors: Will Merrick, Nick Johnson
Cast: Storm Reid, Joaquim de Almeida, Ken Leung, Amy Landecker, Daniel Henney, Nia Long
17 of 24
Natural Born Killers (1994)
"Oliver Stone's vision has changed the way we saw our past. Now he takes a look at where we are and where we’re going.” So begins the official trailer for Natural Born Killers, Oliver Stone’s 11th — and arguably most evocative — movie. Starring Woody Harrelson and Juliette Lewis as Mickey and Mallory Knox, feral lovers with a fetish for murder, Killers follows as the couple’s homicidal rampage is broadcast nationally, transforming the Knoxes into overnight celebrities.
Offered up by Stone as a satirical jab at a culture overstimulated by media and underwhelmed by empathy, Killers remains one of the most polarizing films around. If you can stomach the gore, Natural Born Killers is worth a watch, if only to see Stone’s masterful filmmaking at work. —I.G.
Where to watch Natural Born Killers: Netflix
EW grade: A (read the review)
Director: Oliver Stone
Cast: Woody Harrelson, Juliette Lewis, Robert Downey Jr., Tommy Lee Jones, Tom Sizemore
18 of 24
The Novice (2021)
The obsession with perfection crosses the line from competitive to dangerous in Lauren Hadaway’s directorial debut, The Novice. Orphan’s Isabelle Fuhrman stars as a compulsive college student who is determined to make her school’s varsity rowing team at all costs. Fuhrman gives a virtuoso performance as Alex, a queer first-year student whose addiction to being the best torpedoes her mental and physical health, her academic performance, and her social and romantic life.
Anyone who has ever met a self-destructive, Type A teenager will recognize the anxious thrill that comes with watching someone who can’t relax work themselves into a terrifying state, and The Novice transforms that feeling into a thriller with aplomb. —I.G.
Where to watch The Novice: Netflix
Director: Lauren Hadaway
Cast: Isabelle Fuhrman, Amy Forsyth, Dilone, Charlotte Ubben, Jonathan Cherry, Kate Drummond
19 of 24
Oldboy (2003)
South Korea’s Oldboy — not to be confused with the American version directed by Spike Lee — is considered one of the greatest films ever made, and since its release more than two decades ago, the movie’s fight sequences have challenged action directors and stunt coordinators to up their game. Oh Dae-su (Choi Min-sik) is a businessman who has spent 15 years in captivity with no idea of who his kidnapper is or what they want with him. After his release, he wants vengeance — but he only has five days to hunt down his captor.
Beloved for its memorable plot twist, hallway fight scene, and terrifying use of a living octopus, the film is beyond memorable. At the time of its release in 2003, EW’s critic writes, “Oldboy caused a love-it-or-hate-it stir at Cannes last year, and how could it not: It’s an onslaught made to cause a sensation.” —I.G.
Where to watch Oldboy: Netflix
EW grade: N/A (read the review)
Director: Park Chan-wook
Cast: Choi Min-sik, Yoo Ji-tae, Kang Hye-jung
20 of 24
Oxygen (2021)
A nightmare come to life for claustrophobics everywhere, Oxygen is a French language sci-fi film that thinks outside the box in terms of action. At the genesis, an unidentified woman (Mélanie Laurent) awakens in an airtight medical unit, unsure of who or where she is. Interactions with the system's AI — dubbed M.I.L.O. (Medical Interface Liaison Officer) — provide some clarity as to her identity, but no matter what she tries, she cannot escape her prison.
As she seeks to understand who placed her in the box and why, truths about her personal life and the current state of the world come into focus — but her search for context is actually a race to outwit the slowly depleting oxygen levels. Laurent is excellent, and despite being forced to perform on her back, she manages to imbue the film with a strong sense of determination and humanity. —I.G.
Where to watch Oxygen: Netflix
EW grade: B (read the review)
Director: Alexandre Aja
Cast: Mélanie Laurent, Mathieu Amalric, Malik Zidi
21 of 24
Society of the Snow (2023)
In 1972, the Andes Mountains became a crucible of survival when a Uruguayan flight crashed en route to Santiago, Chile. Sixteen remaining passengers found themselves stranded in one of Mother Nature's most life-threatening terrains, pushing them to take ineffable means to find their way back. While Hollywood attempted to soften this tragedy with a more glossy depiction in Alive (1993), Society of the Snow delivers a far more raw and emotive experience — enriched by the director's conversations with the real-life survivors — that sinks viewers into the gut-wrenching terror of the situation without being overly insensitive.
"A story that is based on humanism," J.A. Bayona (the director who also helmed another intense disaster film, 2012's The Impossible) describes the story as "more about emotional survival. It's not only physical survival. It's to understand that there's something bigger than yourself." —J.M.
Where to watch Society of the Snow: Netflix
Director: J.A. Bayona
Cast: Enzo Vogrincic, Matías Recalt, Agustín Pardella, Felipe González Otaño, Luciano Chatton, Valentino Alonso, Francisco Romero, Agustín Berruti, Andy Pruss, Simón Hempe, Juan Caruso, Esteban Bigliardi, Rocco Posca, Esteban Kukuriczka, Rafael Federman, Manuela Olivera, Agustín Della Corte, Tomas Wolf
22 of 24
They Cloned Tyrone (2023)
A single genre isn't enough to contain one of Netflix's 2023 releases, They Cloned Tyrone. A sci-fi comedy that combines '70s Blaxploitation with mystery and social satire, the film has similar vibes to movies like Get Out (2017) or Sorry to Bother You (2018) while employing a far more absurd premise. Fontaine (John Boyega) is a drug dealer living in an impoverished area called the Glen. While trying to collect funds owed to him by a local pimp named Slick Charles (Jamie Foxx), Fontaine is shot and killed — but that doesn't stop him from showing up on Slick's doorstep the next day to collect his money.
Joined by a sex worker named YoYo (Teyonah Parris), the trio attempts to get to the bottom of what appears to be a massive government conspiracy aimed at exploiting their disenfranchised community as medical subjects. A satirical romp that has as much to say about class and racial injustices as it does about mystery movie tropes, They Cloned Tyrone is smart, silly, and uniformly well-acted. —I.G.
Where to watch They Cloned Tyrone: Netflix
Director: Juel Taylor
Cast: John Boyega, Teyonah Parris, Jamie Foxx
23 of 24
The Weekend Away (2022)
Leighton Meester stars in this murky mystery as Beth, a married new mom who goes off to visit her more glamorous friend Kate (Christina Wolfe) in a palatial apartment in Croatia. But when Kate disappears, Beth runs into one dead end after another trying to find her, until she eventually becomes a suspect in her friend's disappearance herself. The gripping whodunnit is only augmented by the idyllic seaside backdrop, which may make you long for a (less-eventful) weekend in the Balkan region yourself. —G.I.
Where to watch The Weekend Away: Netflix
Director: Kim Farrant
Cast: Leighton Meester, Christina Wolfe, Ziad Bakri
24 of 24
Wild Things (1998)
A late-‘90s mystery thriller with more twists and turns than a NASCAR racetrack, it’s easy to see where Wild Things starts and much harder to predict where the film is headed. Set in an upscale, fictional South Florida town, the film focuses on two high school girls (Neve Campbell and Denise Richards) who accuse their guidance counselor (Matt Dillon) of rape. As the trial and police investigation — led by Kevin Bacon — unfold, the question of who is working together and who is sleeping together becomes much harder to answer.
Scandalous, violent, and sexually progressive for its time, Wild Things pairs all the high school drama of Beverly Hills, 90210 with the duplicitousness of Gone Girl, and comes out with a pulpy, daring thriller. Full of beautiful people, luxurious shots, and lurid, murderous moments, Wild Things is like a car crash: You might not love every moment, but you certainly can’t look away. —I.G.
Where to watch Wild Things: Netflix
EW grade: B (read the review)
Director: John McNaughton
Cast: Kevin Bacon, Matt Dillon, Neve Campbell, Theresa Russell, Denise Richards, Daphne Rubin-Vega, Robert Wagner, Bill Murray
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[] |
[] |
[
"Reviews",
"Showtimes",
"DVDs",
"Photos",
"User Ratings",
"Synopsis",
"Trailers",
"Credits"
] | null |
[] |
1969-02-03T00:00:00
|
España otra vez: Directed by Jaime Camino. With Manuela Vargas, Mark Stevens, Marianne Koch, Enrique Giménez 'El Cojo'. Dr. Foster (Stevens) returns to Spain for the first time since serving as a doctor for the Loyalists in the Spanish Civil War three decades earlier. He meets the daughter (Vargas) of an old girlfriend (also named Maria) who accompanies him while he is attending a conference in Barcelona. He remembers the war while re tracing his steps from thirty years earlier in much the same way Alvah Bessie did while working on the film as an actor and writer.
|
en
|
IMDb
|
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0062941/
|
You can't go back is the theme of this movie, and it appears that as a viewing experience, it is determined to prove its point to anyone wishing to revisit Spain by seeing this movie. I spent the summer of 1983 in Barcelona (where this movie is set) and was hoping to get a feeling of revisiting the Spain of my youth, as did Dr. Foster in the movie, but was let down in large part by the amateurishness of the production. "Espana otra vez" also rates low on the tourism scale; you won't see much of the picture postcard Spain in this, nor get much a sense of the 1960's, the time period during which it is set.
But, to be fair, that isn't the goal of the film. As a serious study of a middle-aged American doctor who returns to Spain (where he served in the Spanish Civil War) hoping to see old friends and falling for the daughter of one of them, the story does have its merits. The acting is decent, but the English language bits of dialog feel like they were dubbed in, even though the star is an American who spent the latter part of his life in Spain. The cinematography attempts a certain amount of creativity, but you get the feeling that the producers were on a pretty limited budget and didn't have the option of re-shooting scenes. This is also not one of those movies that can advertise "no animals were harmed during the filming of this picture" as there is a fairly graphic depiction of the snuffing of a pig preparatory to butchering, but it's no worse than what you see working on a farm. I enjoyed seeing Enrique "el cojo", who features prominently in the cigarette song near the beginning of "Bizet's Carmen" (Francesco Rosi, 1984), as Maria's over-protective dance master.
I wish this movie were better, but it is still somewhat recommendable.
|
|||||
17422
|
yago
|
0
| 52
|
https://www.linkedin.com/posts/jose-m-gonzalez-perez_camino-de-santiago-northern-way-the-real-activity-7109817342930378752-Tx6M
|
en
|
Jose M. Gonzalez Perez on LinkedIn: Camino De Santiago. Northern Way. THE REAL TREAUSURE IS THE CAMINO ITSELF.…
|
https://media.licdn.com/dms/image/v2/D4E05AQH4PbHTO1YWwg/feedshare-thumbnail_720_1280/feedshare-thumbnail_720_1280/0/1695112451792?e=2147483647&v=beta&t=aLO1lUYN6stFZ-zThLSQJQwcIBFKUFGEjEYWAyXK6Is
|
https://media.licdn.com/dms/image/v2/D4E05AQH4PbHTO1YWwg/feedshare-thumbnail_720_1280/feedshare-thumbnail_720_1280/0/1695112451792?e=2147483647&v=beta&t=aLO1lUYN6stFZ-zThLSQJQwcIBFKUFGEjEYWAyXK6Is
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[
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[
"https://dms.licdn.com/playlist/vid/v2/D4E05AQH4PbHTO1YWwg/feedshare-ambry-analyzed_servable_progressive_video/feedshare-ambry-analyzed_servable_progressive_video/0/1695112547493?e=2147483647&v=beta&t=37AaF_BPAZ9PjlLqVWUiqhmSdcwHN3DJGwQbuKRPFTM"
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[] |
[
""
] | null |
[
"Jose M. Gonzalez Perez"
] |
2023-09-19T08:35:48.559000+00:00
|
Camino De Santiago. Northern Way. THE REAL TREAUSURE IS THE CAMINO ITSELF. I will never stop walking.
Howden Broking | 28 comments on LinkedIn
|
en
|
https://static.licdn.com/aero-v1/sc/h/al2o9zrvru7aqj8e1x2rzsrca
|
https://www.linkedin.com/posts/jose-m-gonzalez-perez_camino-de-santiago-northern-way-the-real-activity-7109817342930378752-Tx6M
|
❗Yacht Brokers❗ Are you tired of dealing with low quality leads who waste your time? It's not your fault. You see, most yacht brokers are pretty idle when it comes to their acquisition process. They rely on their referrals, brokerage leads, dock walking, connections, etc… But that stuff only gets you so far since that's what everybody else does. After, speaking to more than 75 yacht brokers we developed a solution for lead quality, the same system helped us get a $2.2mil listing for one of our clients in just 10 days. Iff you want to fill your pipeline with qualified leads comment "quality" down below and follow my page here -> https://lnkd.in/djMUkJ9A
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VCAT CASE COMMENTARY | Pollio Family Pty Ltd v Faustein (Building and Property) [2024] VCAT 446 (10 May 2024) Gross Waddell ICR recently reported the case of Pollio Family Pty Ltd v Faustein (Building and Property) [2024] VCAT 446 (10 May 2024) which dealt with the validity of a request for Covid 19 rent relief, purported breach of the lease, the entitlement to terminate the lease, repudiation, damages and the admissibility of evidence. We have compiled a detailed commentary in the below slides highlighting the significant aspects of this case. The reported case can be viewed here: https://lnkd.in/gNsifetf Author: Sumeet Sharma 0419 202 763 For any further details, please contact one of our Property Management specialists. Andrea Di Martino | Bill Di Donna | Helen Cafari | Isaac Lee | Jessie Du | Jolin Xing | Luke Mulcahy | Mark Coster | Sarah Taouk | Stephanie Hume | Stephanie Seymour | Sumeet Sharma | Tony Aarons | Vishal Karalkar #PropertyManagement #PropertyManagers #VCATCases #Landlord #Tenant
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17422
|
yago
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0
| 44
|
https://www.wheelingit.us/2022/07/10/camino-recap-iii-season-pace-route-all-the-rest/
|
en
|
Camino Recap III – Season, Pace, Route & All The Rest
|
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[] |
[] |
[
""
] | null |
[
"Laura says",
"libertatemamo says",
"Becki says",
"Jamie Feinberg says",
"Deborah K says",
"Angie Quantrell says",
"Brenda Lopez says",
"Jim Streeter says",
"Jana says",
"Mike Boyink says"
] |
2022-07-10T00:00:00
|
Bonjour my friends, from a very warm SW France. It's going to be a scorcher here this week, and the only thing brightening the horizon are the many sunflowers that have gone into full bloom all across the valley. They are so pretty in July. The yellow fields are a sure sign we're in the…
|
en
|
Wheeling It: Tales From a Nomadic Life
|
https://www.wheelingit.us/2022/07/10/camino-recap-iii-season-pace-route-all-the-rest/
|
Bonjour my friends, from a very warm SW France.
It’s going to be a scorcher here this week, and the only thing brightening the horizon are the many sunflowers that have gone into full bloom all across the valley. They are so pretty in July. The yellow fields are a sure sign we’re in the full swing of summer (and there’s much I have to share about that), but before I take you to France I must finish my story from Spain in May.
Of all the things I’ve written about the Camino, the last subject left untouched is a retrospective of what I did right (for me, anyway) and what I would/will do differently if/when I go again. I’ve already covered the gear part of this so I won’t talk clothing again, but there are so many other aspects of doing the Camino (route, time-frame, season, pace etc.) which I feel might be useful pieces for aspiring pilgrims to know.
So I’m doing a final blog post on that today (final, I promise!!), and I do apologize in advance for those of you who may already have had enough of the Camino (admittedly it’s been a longer series than I planned!), but such is blogging life sometimes. We write for we must, and the result is just what happens along the way.
Let’s wrap it up and dig right in, shall we?
Season Matters (IMO Spring & Fall Are Best)
As you all know I decided on a Spring Camino, starting April 21st and ending May 30th, and weather-wise (honestly) I think I timed it pretty darn well:
The start was wet, but interspersed with days of lovely, not-too-hot sunshine.
The middle was very hot and dry (altho’ that’s typical of the Meseta region).
The end was cooler, especially in the moist/wet area of Galicia.
Overall we got 5 days of full rain, 8 days that were overcast or foggy while the remainder were a mixture of sunny and hot. Our temps never got higher than 33°C/91°F (which was high enough!) and never went below freezing. It was OK!
Oh and we saw SO MANY spring flowers, probably my favorite perk of it all.
I could have started earlier and probably avoided some of the heat we hit in the middle, but the beginning would undoubtedly have been wetter and the high pass over the Pyrenees may not have been open yet (it opened rather later this year due to lingering snow). Still, going a few weeks earlier is something I would consider, taking the low pass over the Pyrenees as an alternative.
I would personally never go in summer as the heat, which my Nordic sensibility is far-too-sensitive to, would be too much for me. The Spanish hospitals would have to host me on a permanent hydration drip from Burgos to Villafranca del Bierzo.
I would definitely consider fall, especially later in fall as the temps cool down. In fact seeing fall colors and nature would be a real impetus to go again.
Bottom Line: Spring and Fall are still my favorite recommendations.
There Are Several 4-6 Week Routes (Some Easier, Some Harder)
I’ve talked about “The Camino” in a very broad sense throughout my blog posts these past weeks, but that’s actually not an accurate way to describe what I’ve done.
In reality, any path that leads to Santiago de Compostela is a “Camino”, no matter where it starts in the world and although there are many well-established routes (some of which date back to the 10th century), you could literally walk out your front door and start from your own backyard and you would be on the Camino. In fact that’s exactly the way the original Pilgrims did it, back in the day.
If we narrow it down to established ~600-900km range (4-6 weeks) paths however, you’re looking at the routes that run through Portugal and Spain. Here are my top 3 picks:
Camino Francés (“the French Way”): This is the pilgrimage I did, specifically I did the ~800km portion from SJPDP (Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port) to Santiago de Compostela. It’s undoubtedly the most popular Camino path, and for that reason I think it’s an awesome “starter Camino” for anyone considering their first Way. The path is well-marked, there are lots of places to stay and eat, and there are plenty of services (hospitals, grocery stores, taxi’s, buses, trains etc.) along the way. IMO it’s a great first Camino!
Camino Portugués (the “Portuguese Way”), This is another great “starter Camino” that runs ~610km from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela. Folks say this route is less crowded and easier (terrain-wise) than the Francés. Also in summer it’s a cooler route, if you stick to the coastal (vs inland) route. I’d love to try it.
Camino Del Norte (the “Northern Way”): This is known as being the toughest Camino in Spain. It follows ~825km of hilly northern coastline from San Sebastian to Santiago de Compostela and is often combined with the mountainous Camino Primitivo (the “Primitive Way”) from Oveido onwards for an even more remote and unique experience. The challenge -> the terrain is really hard! The reward -> way less people. This one is on my bucket list if I can ever get fit enough for it.
And of course there are other paths, some of which are even less frequented and quiet. So many options to try, each of which offer something different.
Bottom Line: Know that there are many Camino’s, so you can pick the one that speaks to you.
There Are Many Shorter Routes Too (You Don’t Have To Walk It All)
I personally liked (and wanted) the challenge of a longer hike, but for those wanting a shorter Camino there are really SO many options. Here’s just a few:
A portion of (pretty much any) Camino. Lots of folks do the Camino in “bits”, taking a week or two here or there to tackle a portion of it, and then coming back the nest year (or years later) to do some more. I met a 75-year old Danish couple who had been doing this for over 10 years, starting in Denmark!
The Last 100km Of Camino Francés from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela can be walked in ~5-6 days, and also qualifies you to get your Compostela (completion certificate). It’s by far the most popular section of the Camino, often quite crowded but very social!
The Camino Ingles (English Camino). This is another ~5-6 day (~100km) route that starts on the Northern coast of Spain at either A Coruña or Ferrol and ends up in Santiago de Compostela. It’s another nice, short alternative.
Bottom Line: If you only have a week, you can do the Camino!
And Routes In Other Countries!
As you no doubt noticed from the map, Spain (and Portugal) are not the only places you can walk a Camino. In fact unless you’re dead-set on the idea of getting a Compostela (completion certificate) there’s no reason to walk to Santiago at all!
Personally I’m fascinated with the French Via Podiensis that runs ~700km from Le-Puy-en Velay to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. According to multiple people I met on the trail, it’s a gorgeous route that tops the lists of Camino paths they’ve done. And it’s entirely in France!
I’m also very intrigued by the Italian Via Francigena which is actually part of an entirely different ~2000km pilgrimage that runs from the Cathedral of Canterbury in England to Rome (but can also connect to Santiago). I learned about it from fellow bloggers The Chouters who walked part of it earlier this year. It looks incredible.
These are just two examples, but there are masses of other routes and pilgrimages beyond these. So many options to explore IMO.
Pace Yourself (Don’t Follow The “Stages”)
Whenever you research the Camino Francés you’ll find books and websites split it into “recommended stages”, specifically 33 of them that vary between 19km (~12 miles) and 28km (~17 miles) in length. It looks nice and neat, but IMO I’d never personally recommend doing it that way.
The truth of the matter is, unless you’re a habitual long-distance hiker most folks simply can’t go directly from a “normal” lifestyle to walking 20+ km per day without enduring serious misery and/or injury. It’s just too hard on the body and feet, and this is true even if you’ve trained some beforehand (which I absolutely do recommend).
The better way? Start out with shorter days, and ease into longer days over the following weeks as your body builds-up strength & stamina. Also take rest days or shorten days if & when you need them.
We took 40 days to do the Camino, but I could easily have stretched it to 45 by putting in more rest days. Then again, I felt our progressive pace was near-perfect. We started slow and didn’t hit our longest day (28km) until Week 4 which kept us healthy and avoided so many of the (often horrendous) early injuries and blisters I saw in other pilgrims. Thank you, Jessica 🙂 Going “off-stage” was never a problem either and easily planned using the many Camino apps and websites available (see bottom).
Bottom line: Don’t try to be a He-Man. Start slow, listen to your body and choose a pace that works for you.
Lodging (Upgrade If You Can)
I already talked about the joys of communal bunk-bed living in my last post, so I’m not going to cover that again, but I will say this.
We stayed at communal-type Albergues (either municipal or private*) for most of the first half the Camino paying anywhere EUR 8-15 per night. They were fine and did the job, and cost us FAR less than private rooms which would’ve done (EUR 30-50 per night, double that at Hotels).
As our group grew however….those numbers changed.
Towards the end of the Camino we (and by we, I mean Jessica) discovered that we could book private rooms with 4 beds for only a small amount more than 4 individual Albergue bunk beds and WHOAH….they were SO much nicer. Real bedsheets, actual towels and deep, uninterrupted sleep which made you feel like you’d poured magical healing sprinkles over your entire body and mind. It….was…awesome..!
If and when I do another Camino I’ll definitely want to plan for more private rooms, either alone (say once per week splurge, if I didn’t have anyone to share with?) or in a share with Camino family that I find along the way.
Bottom Line: If you can manage the extra cost, upgrading your room every now and then is totally worth it.
How DO You Book A Room? Many Camino bookings can be done through booking.com, but a good portion of Albergues and private pensions are not on there (some Albergues like municipals, don’t take bookings at all!) so I recommend making use of the many in-depth apps/website resources (see bottom) while you’re on the trail to get a full overview of your lodging options. Outside of municipals, we typically booked 2-3 nights ahead, stretching that to 5-7 nights towards the very end, especially to snag those more-sought-after private rooms.
*Municipal Vs Private Albergues: What’s the difference? This link (Stingynomads) explains it all
Mind The Heat (Really, Seriously)
I’ve never felt more Danish than I did on the hot sections in the Camino. Of the 40 days I walked, I categorized 15 (or over a third) as “hot” and they were brutal and sneaky, sapping my energy to a point that I didn’t even completely understand until I ended up in hospital. Where I finally realized what I’d been doing wrong….
There’s the obvious stuff, such as drinking enough water, but here are the critical aspects for keeping you safe:
Carry Enough Water (And Drink Often): It kinda goes without saying really, but in hot weather you gotta be drinking enough and you gotta be drinking often (and more than you think). You don’t need to carry enormous amounts on the Camino Francés as there are drinking fountains with decent regularity, but 2 liters is IMO a “safe” amount. It’s what I carried everyday.
Make Sure It’s Easily Accessible: Whether you chose a bottle or a hydration bladder, just make sure your water is easily accessible, otherwise you just won’t drink enough (see point 1).
Supplement With Hydration Salts Or Drinks: You can buy hydration salts at any pharmacy, and Aquarius (the Spanish version of Gatorade) is literally sold in every grocery store and bar. Buy it and use it! This is something I didn’t do early on, and wish I had!
Don’t Walk On Hot Afternoons: On very hot days, get up before sunrise and don’t walk past around mid-day. The heat builds in central Spain over the day and in summer will continue to rise until around 5 or 6PM (peak heat). Once it gets hot, don’t tempt it and don’t continue to push it, as it’ll just get worse. You can always taxi a portion…always.
Carry An Umbrella: Obviously….need I say more?
Bottom line: Don’t underestimate the heat, even if you’re lesser Nordically-ingrained than me.
Bring A Camera (But Don’t Sweat The Type)
I took 8,585 pictures over the space of 40 days on the Camino Frances, and I don’t regret bringing an iPhone as my main camera at all. It was light, portable and allowed me to capture the moments I wanted to with ease, which is really the only thing that matters. Here’s the way I see it:
Did I capture what I wanted? Yes, I believe I did. My phone was always on me, always “handy” and that made photo capture very easy, even with hiking poles. My delay from seeing a photo I wanted to actually taking it was literally seconds each time, and for me as a photographer that was key.
Was the quality adequate? Surprisingly yes! By shooting in RAW mode and using Lightroom mobile I got pretty darn close to what I wanted, especially for my “fancier” pics. It was sometimes tricky to capture exactly what I had in my minds eye, but that kinda became part of the challenge too, and I actually enjoyed that aspect. Honestly, the photos turned out way better than I expected.
Can I make gallery-worthy large prints from my Camino photos? No, definitely not (but then again, how many pictures do I typically large print in a year?). I’m OK with that honestly, as it was not the main purpose of my Camino this year.
Don’t get me wrong, I still love my “big camera” (nothing beats the quality of a good DSLR),and will chose it every time for a serious photograph, but I am so darn happy I did not bring those 4 pounds of extra neck-weight with me for 800km of walking. My next long walk, I’m bringing my iPhone again, no question.
Bottom Line: Don’t sweat the camera (really)
Money Topics (And How To Keep It All Safe)
A last practical note on money and documents.
The Camino, inexpensive as it is, still requires money and that means you’ll need both credit cards and cash. In fact cash is still widely-used on the Camino, both at many of the smaller Albergues and some cafes/bars so you’ll need some on you at all times.
For credit cards, find one that does not charge any foreign transaction fees. For Americans good examples are Chase Sapphire Preferred/Reserve, Barclaycard Arrival Plus, Capital One Venture etc. There are many others.
For cash, use a debit card that does not charge for foreign withdrawals (or refunds international ATM fees) and also does not charge any foreign transaction fees. For Americans, Schwab has a great debit card that offers both of these (you just need to open an account). For Europeans, your local bank may offer this (our French one does). ATM’s are available in all bigger cities, so just withdraw a decent amount whenever you see one.
For security, put all these valuables in a compact RFID-block money belt (#amazonaffiliatelink) or pouch+lanyard and then get used to wearing that thing literally everywhere….on the trail, in the toilet, when you go shower, in bed etc. This may sound extreme, but I know of two pilgrims who had all their valuables (money/documents) stolen when they left them on their Albergue bed while they showered. It doesn’t happen often, but it does happen and it’s easy to avoid.
How Much Money In Total? Between lodging and food, I’d say a middle-of-the-road budget is around EUR 30-45 per day. It can be done cheaper (cheaper lodging, less meals out) and of course more expensive (more private rooms/hotels), but IMO that’s a pretty typical range.
And Finally: Would I Do It Again?
This one is easy…yes, in a heartbeat.
It’s hard to articulate the effect the Camino had on me. It was harder than I expected, much harder, but that also bought out things deeper in me that I feared had been lost for all time. It reconnected me to people (so key, post-COVID especially), renewed my love of hiking (it feeds my soul), and reawakened my spirit of adventure. Most of all it taught me that I can achieve so much more both physically and mentally than my silly brain sometimes tells me. We all need that reminder every now and then.
So yes my friends, I would do it again and perhaps in a time not so far from now, for once the Camino calls it does so for life, and that kind of call is always worth taking.
I hope I’ve inspired you my blog friends, or at least not bored you to death. This is (finally, really!) the end of my Camino series, so if you have any last ditch questions do feel free to shoot in the comments below. Otherwise I’ll see you in SW France next week!
Camino Resources:
Apps: Wise Pilgrim, Gronze, Buen Camino
Websites: Stingy Nomads, Camino Ways, Follow The Camino
Books: Wise Pilgrim Guidebooks, John Bierley’s Camino Guide (#amazonaffiliatelink), Village to Village Camino Guide (#amazonaffiliatelink) -> this last one you can buy on Kindle and carry on your phone!
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Jaime Camino (1936
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Greco
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Greek painter of the Spanish Renaissance (1541–1614)
This article is about the artist of the Spanish Renaissance. For other uses, see El Greco (disambiguation).
Doménikos Theotokópoulos (Greek: Δομήνικος Θεοτοκόπουλος, IPA: [ðoˈminikos θeotoˈkopulos]; 1 October 1541 – 7 April 1614),[2] most widely known as El Greco ( Spanish pronunciation: [el ˈgɾeko]; "The Greek"), was a Greek painter, sculptor and architect of the Spanish Renaissance. El Greco was a nickname,[a] and the artist normally signed his paintings with his full birth name in Greek letters, often adding the word Κρής (Krḗs), which means "Cretan", in Ancient Greek.
El Greco was born in the Kingdom of Candia (modern Crete), which was at that time part of the Republic of Venice, Italy, and the center of Post-Byzantine art. He trained and became a master within that tradition before traveling at age 26 to Venice, as other Greek artists had done.[6] In 1570, he moved to Rome, where he opened a workshop and executed a series of works. During his stay in Italy, El Greco enriched his style with elements of Mannerism and of the Venetian Renaissance taken from a number of great artists of the time, notably Tintoretto and Titian. In 1577, he moved to Toledo, Spain, where he lived and worked until his death. In Toledo, El Greco received several major commissions and produced his best-known paintings, such as View of Toledo and Opening of the Fifth Seal.
El Greco's dramatic and expressionistic style was met with puzzlement by his contemporaries but found appreciation by the 20th century. El Greco is regarded as a precursor of both Expressionism and Cubism, while his personality and works were a source of inspiration for poets and writers such as Rainer Maria Rilke and Nikos Kazantzakis. El Greco has been characterized by modern scholars as an artist so individual that he belongs to no conventional school.[3] He is best known for tortuously elongated figures and often fantastic or phantasmagorical pigmentation, marrying Byzantine traditions with those of Western painting.[7]
Life
[edit]
Early years and family
[edit]
Born in 1541, in either the village of Fodele or Candia (the Venetian name of Chandax, present day Heraklion) on Crete,[b] El Greco was descended from a prosperous urban family, which had probably been driven out of Chania to Candia after an uprising against the Catholic Venetians between 1526 and 1528.[11] El Greco's father, Geṓrgios Theotokópoulos (Γεώργιος Θεοτοκόπουλος; d. 1556), was a merchant and tax collector. Almost nothing is known about his mother or his first wife, except that they were also Greek.[12] His second wife was a Spaniard.[13]
El Greco's older brother, Manoússos Theotokópoulos (1531–1604), was a wealthy merchant and spent the last years of his life (1603–1604) in El Greco's Toledo home.[13]
El Greco received his initial training as an icon painter of the Cretan school, a leading center of post-Byzantine art. In addition to painting, he probably studied the classics of ancient Greece, and perhaps the Latin classics also; he left a "working library" of 130 volumes at his death, including the Bible in Greek and an annotated Vasari book.[14] Candia was a center for artistic activity where Eastern and Western cultures co-existed harmoniously, where around two hundred painters were active during the 16th century, and had organized a painters' guild, based on the Italian model.[11] In 1563, at the age of twenty-two, El Greco was described in a document as a "master" ("maestro Domenigo"), meaning he was already a master of the guild and presumably operating his own workshop.[15] Three years later, in June 1566, as a witness to a contract, he signed his name in Greek as μαΐστρος Μένεγος Θεοτοκόπουλος σγουράφος (maḯstros Ménegos Theotokópoulos sgouráfos; "Master Ménegos Theotokópoulos, painter").[c]
Most scholars believe that the Theotokópoulos "family was almost certainly Greek Orthodox",[17] although some Catholic sources still claim him from birth.[d] Like many Orthodox emigrants to Catholic areas of Europe, some assert that he may have transferred to Catholicism after his arrival, and possibly practiced as a Catholic in Spain, where he described himself as a "devout Catholic" in his will. The extensive archival research conducted since the early 1960s by scholars, such as Nikolaos Panayotakis, Pandelis Prevelakis and Maria Constantoudaki, indicates strongly that El Greco's family and ancestors were Greek Orthodox. One of his uncles was an Orthodox priest, and his name is not mentioned in the Catholic archival baptismal records on Crete.[20] Prevelakis goes even further, expressing his doubt that El Greco was ever a practicing Roman Catholic.[21]
Important for his early biography, El Greco, still in Crete, painted his Dormition of the Virgin near the end of his Cretan period, probably before 1567. Three other signed works of "Domḗnicos" are attributed to El Greco (Modena Triptych, St. Luke Painting the Virgin and Child, and The Adoration of the Magi).[22]
Italy
[edit]
It was natural for the young El Greco to pursue his career in Venice, Crete having been a possession of the Republic of Venice since 1211.[3] Though the exact year is not clear, most scholars agree that El Greco went to Venice around 1567.[e] Knowledge of El Greco's years in Italy is limited. He lived in Venice until 1570 and, according to a letter written by his much older friend, the greatest miniaturist of the age, Giulio Clovio, was a "disciple" of Titian, who was by then in his eighties but still vigorous. This may mean he worked in Titian's large studio, or not. Clovio characterized El Greco as "a rare talent in painting".[26]
In 1570, El Greco moved to Rome, where he executed a series of works strongly marked by his Venetian apprenticeship.[26] It is unknown how long he remained in Rome, though he may have returned to Venice (c. 1575–76) before he left for Spain.[27] In Rome, on the recommendation of Giulio Clovio,[28] El Greco was received as a guest at the Palazzo Farnese, which Cardinal Alessandro Farnese had made a center of the artistic and intellectual life of the city. There he came into contact with the intellectual elite of the city, including the Roman scholar Fulvio Orsini, whose collection would later include seven paintings by the artist (View of Mt. Sinai and a portrait of Clovio are among them).[29]
Unlike other Cretan artists who had moved to Venice, El Greco substantially altered his style and sought to distinguish himself by inventing new and unusual interpretations of traditional religious subject matter.[30] His works painted in Italy were influenced by the Venetian Renaissance style of the period, with agile, elongated figures reminiscent of Tintoretto and a chromatic framework that connects him to Titian.[3] The Venetian painters also taught him to organize his multi-figured compositions in landscapes vibrant with atmospheric light. Clovio reports visiting El Greco on a summer's day while the artist was still in Rome. El Greco was sitting in a darkened room, because he found the darkness more conducive to thought than the light of the day, which disturbed his "inner light".[31] As a result of his stay in Rome, his works were enriched with elements such as violent perspective vanishing points or strange attitudes struck by the figures with their repeated twisting and turning and tempestuous gestures; all elements of Mannerism.[26]
By the time El Greco arrived in Rome, Michelangelo and Raphael were dead, but their example continued to be paramount, and somewhat overwhelming for young painters. El Greco was determined to make his own mark in Rome defending his personal artistic views, ideas and style.[32] He singled out Correggio and Parmigianino for particular praise,[33] but he did not hesitate to dismiss Michelangelo's Last Judgment in the Sistine Chapel;[f] he extended an offer to Pope Pius V to paint over the whole work in accord with the new and stricter Catholic thinking.[35] When he was later asked what he thought about Michelangelo, El Greco replied that "he was a good man, but he did not know how to paint".[36] However, despite El Greco's criticism,[37] Michelangelo's influence can be seen in later El Greco works such as the Allegory of the Holy League.[38] By painting portraits of Michelangelo, Titian, Clovio and, presumably, Raphael in one of his works (The Purification of the Temple), El Greco not only expressed his gratitude but also advanced the claim to rival these masters. As his own commentaries indicate, El Greco viewed Titian, Michelangelo and Raphael as models to emulate.[35] In his 17th century Chronicles, Giulio Mancini included El Greco among the painters who had initiated, in various ways, a re-evaluation of Michelangelo's teachings.[39]
Because of his unconventional artistic beliefs (such as his dismissal of Michelangelo's technique) and personality, El Greco soon acquired enemies in Rome. Architect and writer Pirro Ligorio called him a "foolish foreigner", and newly discovered archival material reveals a skirmish with Farnese, who obliged the young artist to leave his palace.[39] On 6 July 1572, El Greco officially complained about this event. A few months later, on 18 September 1572, he paid his dues to the Guild of Saint Luke in Rome as a miniature painter.[40] At the end of that year, El Greco opened his own workshop and hired as assistants the painters Lattanzio Bonastri de Lucignano and Francisco Preboste.[39]
Spain
[edit]
Move to Toledo
[edit]
In 1577, El Greco migrated to Madrid and then to Toledo, where he produced his mature works.[41] At the time, Toledo was the religious capital of Spain and a populous city[g] with "an illustrious past, a prosperous present and an uncertain future".[43] In Rome, El Greco had earned the respect of some intellectuals, but was also facing the hostility of certain art critics.[44] During the 1570s the huge monastery-palace of El Escorial was still under construction and Philip II of Spain was experiencing difficulties in finding good artists for the many large paintings required to decorate it. Titian was dead, and Tintoretto, Veronese and Anthonis Mor all refused to come to Spain. Philip had to rely on the lesser talent of Juan Fernández de Navarrete, of whose gravedad y decoro ("seriousness and decorum") the king approved. When Fernández died in 1579, the moment was ideal for El Greco to move to Toledo.[45]
Through Clovio and Orsini, El Greco met Benito Arias Montano, a Spanish humanist and agent of Philip; Pedro Chacón, a clergyman; and Luis de Castilla, son of Diego de Castilla, the dean of the Cathedral of Toledo.[42] El Greco's friendship with Castilla would secure his first large commissions in Toledo. He arrived in Toledo by July 1577, and signed contracts for a group of paintings that was to adorn the church of Santo Domingo el Antiguo in Toledo and for the renowned El Espolio.[46] By September 1579 he had completed nine paintings for Santo Domingo, including The Trinity and The Assumption of the Virgin. These works would establish the painter's reputation in Toledo.[40]
El Greco did not plan to settle permanently in Toledo, since his final aim was to win the favor of Philip and make his mark in his court.[47] Indeed, he did manage to secure two important commissions from the monarch: Allegory of the Holy League and Martyrdom of St. Maurice. However, the king did not like these works and placed the St Maurice altarpiece in the chapter-house rather than the intended chapel. He gave no further commissions to El Greco.[48] The exact reasons for the king's dissatisfaction remain unclear. Some scholars have suggested that Philip did not like the inclusion of living persons in a religious scene;[48] some others that El Greco's works violated a basic rule of the Counter-Reformation, namely that in the image the content was paramount rather than the style.[49] Philip took a close interest in his artistic commissions, and had very decided tastes; a long sought-after sculpted Crucifixion by Benvenuto Cellini also failed to please when it arrived, and was likewise exiled to a less prominent place. Philip's next experiment, with Federico Zuccari was even less successful.[50] In any case, Philip's dissatisfaction ended any hopes of royal patronage El Greco may have had.[40]
Mature works and later years
[edit]
Lacking the favor of the king, El Greco was obliged to remain in Toledo, where he had been received in 1577 as a great painter.[51] According to Hortensio Félix Paravicino, a 17th-century Spanish preacher and poet, "Crete gave him life and the painter's craft, Toledo a better homeland, where through Death he began to achieve eternal life."[52] In 1585, he appears to have hired an assistant, Italian painter Francisco Preboste, and to have established a workshop capable of producing altar frames and statues as well as paintings.[53] On 12 March 1586 he obtained the commission for The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, now his best-known work.[54]
The decade 1597 to 1607 was a period of intense activity for El Greco. During these years he received several major commissions, and his workshop created pictorial and sculptural ensembles for a variety of religious institutions. Among his major commissions of this period were three altars for the Chapel of San José in Toledo (1597–1599); three paintings (1596–1600) for the Colegio de Doña María de Aragon, an Augustinian monastery in Madrid, and the high altar, four lateral altars, and the painting St. Ildefonso for the Capilla Mayor of the Hospital de la Caridad (Hospital of Charity) at Illescas (1603–1605).[3] The minutes of the commission of The Virgin of the Immaculate Conception (1607–1613), which were composed by the personnel of the municipality, describe El Greco as "one of the greatest men in both this kingdom and outside it".[55]
Between 1607 and 1608 El Greco was involved in a protracted legal dispute with the authorities of the Hospital of Charity at Illescas concerning payment for his work, which included painting, sculpture and architecture;[h] this and other legal disputes contributed to the economic difficulties he experienced towards the end of his life.[59] In 1608, he received his last major commission at the Hospital of Saint John the Baptist in Toledo.[40]
El Greco made Toledo his home. Surviving contracts mention him as the tenant from 1585 onwards of a complex consisting of three apartments and twenty-four rooms which belonged to the Marquis de Villena.[9] It was in these apartments, which also served as his workshop, that he spent the rest of his life, painting and studying. He lived in considerable style, sometimes employing musicians to play whilst he dined. It is not confirmed whether he lived with his Spanish female companion, Jerónima de Las Cuevas, whom he probably never married. She was the mother of his only son, Jorge Manuel, born in 1578, who also became a painter, assisted his father, and continued to repeat his compositions for many years after he inherited the studio.[i] In 1604, Jorge Manuel and Alfonsa de los Morales gave birth to El Greco's grandson, Gabriel, who was baptized by Gregorio Angulo, governor of Toledo and a personal friend of the artist.[59]
During the course of the execution of a commission for the Hospital de Tavera, El Greco fell seriously ill, and died a month later, on 7 April 1614. A few days earlier, on 31 March, he had directed that his son should have the power to make his will. Two Greeks, friends of the painter, witnessed this last will and testament (El Greco never lost touch with his Greek origins).[60] He was buried in the Church of Santo Domingo el Antiguo, aged 73.[61]
Art
[edit]
Main article: Art of El Greco
Technique and style
[edit]
The primacy of imagination and intuition over the subjective character of creation was a fundamental principle of El Greco's style.[36] El Greco discarded classicist criteria such as measure and proportion. He believed that grace is the supreme quest of art, but the painter achieves grace only by managing to solve the most complex problems with ease.[36]
El Greco regarded color as the most important and the most ungovernable element of painting, and declared that color had primacy over form.[36] Francisco Pacheco, a painter and theoretician who visited El Greco in 1611, wrote that the painter liked "the colors crude and unmixed in great blots as a boastful display of his dexterity" and that "he believed in constant repainting and retouching in order to make the broad masses tell flat as in nature".[62]
Art historian Max Dvořák was the first scholar to connect El Greco's art with Mannerism and Antinaturalism.[64] Modern scholars characterize El Greco's theory as "typically Mannerist" and pinpoint its sources in the Neoplatonism of the Renaissance.[65] Jonathan Brown believes that El Greco created a sophisticated form of art;[66] according to Nicholas Penny "once in Spain, El Greco was able to create a style of his own—one that disavowed most of the descriptive ambitions of painting".[67]
In his mature works El Greco demonstrated a characteristic tendency to dramatize rather than to describe.[3] The strong spiritual emotion transfers from painting directly to the audience. According to Pacheco, El Greco's perturbed, violent and at times seemingly careless-in-execution art was due to a studied effort to acquire a freedom of style.[62] El Greco's preference for exceptionally tall and slender figures and elongated compositions, which served both his expressive purposes and aesthetic principles, led him to disregard the laws of nature and elongate his compositions to ever greater extents, particularly when they were destined for altarpieces.[68] The anatomy of the human body becomes even more otherworldly in El Greco's mature works; for The Immaculate Conception (El Greco, Toledo) El Greco asked to lengthen the altarpiece itself by another 1.5 ft (0.46 m) "because in this way the form will be perfect and not reduced, which is the worst thing that can happen to a figure". A significant innovation of El Greco's mature works is the interweaving between form and space; a reciprocal relationship is developed between the two which completely unifies the painting surface. This interweaving would re-emerge three centuries later in the works of Cézanne and Picasso.[68]
Another characteristic of El Greco's mature style is the use of light. As Jonathan Brown notes, "each figure seems to carry its own light within or reflects the light that emanates from an unseen source".[69] Fernando Marias and Agustín Bustamante García, the scholars who transcribed El Greco's handwritten notes, connect the power that the painter gives to light with the ideas underlying Christian Neo-Platonism.[70]
Modern scholarly research emphasizes the importance of Toledo for the complete development of El Greco's mature style and stresses the painter's ability to adjust his style in accordance with his surroundings.[71] Harold Wethey asserts that "although Greek by descent and Italian by artistic preparation, the artist became so immersed in the religious environment of Spain that he became the most vital visual representative of Spanish mysticism". He believes that in El Greco's mature works "the devotional intensity of mood reflects the religious spirit of Roman Catholic Spain in the period of the Counter-Reformation".[3]
El Greco also excelled as a portraitist, able not only to record a sitter's features but also to convey their character.[72] His portraits are fewer in number than his religious paintings, but are of equally high quality. Wethey says that "by such simple means, the artist created a memorable characterization that places him in the highest rank as a portraitist, along with Titian and Rembrandt".[3]
Painting materials
[edit]
El Greco painted many of his paintings on fine canvas and employed a viscous oil medium.[73] He painted with the usual pigments of his period such as azurite, lead-tin-yellow, vermilion, madder lake, ochres and red lead, but he seldom used the expensive natural ultramarine.[74]
Suggested Byzantine affinities
[edit]
Since the beginning of the 20th century, scholars have debated whether El Greco's style had Byzantine origins. Certain art historians had asserted that El Greco's roots were firmly in the Byzantine tradition, and that his most individual characteristics derive directly from the art of his ancestors,[75] while others had argued that Byzantine art could not be related to El Greco's later work.[76]
The discovery of the Dormition of the Virgin on Syros, an authentic and signed work from the painter's Cretan period, and the extensive archival research in the early 1960s, contributed to the rekindling and reassessment of these theories. Although following many conventions of the Byzantine icon, aspects of the style certainly show Venetian influence, and the composition, showing the death of Mary, combines the different doctrines of the Orthodox Dormition of the Virgin and the Catholic Assumption of the Virgin.[78] Significant scholarly works of the second half of the 20th century devoted to El Greco reappraise many of the interpretations of his work, including his supposed Byzantinism.[4] Based on the notes written in El Greco's own hand, on his unique style, and on the fact that El Greco signed his name in Greek characters, they see an organic continuity between Byzantine painting and his art.[79] According to Marina Lambraki-Plaka "far from the influence of Italy, in a neutral place which was intellectually similar to his birthplace, Candia, the Byzantine elements of his education emerged and played a catalytic role in the new conception of the image which is presented to us in his mature work".[80] In making this judgement, Lambraki-Plaka disagrees with Oxford University professors Cyril Mango and Elizabeth Jeffreys, who assert that "despite claims to the contrary, the only Byzantine element of his famous paintings was his signature in Greek lettering".[81] Nikos Hadjinikolaou states that from 1570 El Greco's painting is "neither Byzantine nor post-Byzantine but Western European. The works he produced in Italy belong to the history of the Italian art, and those he produced in Spain to the history of Spanish art".[82]
The English art historian David Davies seeks the roots of El Greco's style in the intellectual sources of his Greek-Christian education and in the world of his recollections from the liturgical and ceremonial aspect of the Orthodox Church. Davies believes that the religious climate of the Counter-Reformation and the aesthetics of Mannerism acted as catalysts to activate his individual technique. He asserts that the philosophies of Platonism and ancient Neo-Platonism, the works of Plotinus and Pseudo-Dionysius the Areopagite, the texts of the Church fathers and the liturgy offer the keys to the understanding of El Greco's style.[83] Summarizing the ensuing scholarly debate on this issue, José Álvarez Lopera, curator at the Museo del Prado, Madrid, concludes that the presence of "Byzantine memories" is obvious in El Greco's mature works, though there are still some obscure issues concerning his Byzantine origins needing further illumination.[84]
Architecture and sculpture
[edit]
El Greco was highly esteemed as an architect and sculptor during his lifetime.[85] He usually designed complete altar compositions, working as architect and sculptor as well as painter—at, for instance, the Hospital de la Caridad. There he decorated the chapel of the hospital, but the wooden altar and the sculptures he created have in all probability perished.[86] For El Espolio the master designed the original altar of gilded wood which has been destroyed, but his small sculptured group of the Miracle of St. Ildefonso still survives on the lower center of the frame.[3]
His most important architectural achievement was the church and Monastery of Santo Domingo el Antiguo, for which he also executed sculptures and paintings.[87] El Greco is regarded as a painter who incorporated architecture in his painting.[88] He is also credited with the architectural frames to his own paintings in Toledo. Pacheco characterized him as "a writer of painting, sculpture and architecture".[36]
In the marginalia that El Greco inscribed in his copy of Daniele Barbaro's translation of Vitruvius' De architectura, he refuted Vitruvius' attachment to archaeological remains, canonical proportions, perspective and mathematics. He also saw Vitruvius' manner of distorting proportions in order to compensate for distance from the eye as responsible for creating monstrous forms. El Greco was averse to the very idea of rules in architecture; he believed above all in the freedom of invention and defended novelty, variety, and complexity. These ideas were, however, far too extreme for the architectural circles of his era and had no immediate resonance.[88]
Legacy
[edit]
Posthumous critical reputation
[edit]
El Greco was disdained by the immediate generations after his death because his work was opposed in many respects to the principles of the early baroque style which came to the fore near the beginning of the 17th century and soon supplanted the last surviving traits of the 16th-century Mannerism.[3] El Greco was deemed incomprehensible and had no important followers.[89] Only his son and a few unknown painters produced weak copies of his works. Late 17th- and early 18th-century Spanish commentators praised his skill but criticized his antinaturalistic style and his complex iconography. Some of these commentators, such as Antonio Palomino and Juan Agustín Ceán Bermúdez, described his mature work as "contemptible", "ridiculous" and "worthy of scorn".[90] The views of Palomino and Bermúdez were frequently repeated in Spanish historiography, adorned with terms such as "strange", "queer", "original", "eccentric" and "odd".[91] The phrase "sunk in eccentricity", often encountered in such texts, in time developed into "madness".[i]
With the arrival of Romantic sentiments in the late 18th century, El Greco's works were examined anew.[89] To French writer Théophile Gautier, El Greco was the precursor of the European Romantic movement in all its craving for the strange and the extreme.[92] Gautier regarded El Greco as the ideal romantic hero (the "gifted", the "misunderstood", the "mad"),[j] and was the first who explicitly expressed his admiration for El Greco's later technique.[91] French art critics Zacharie Astruc and Paul Lefort helped to promote a widespread revival of interest in his painting. In the 1890s, Spanish painters living in Paris adopted him as their guide and mentor.[92] However, in the popular English-speaking imagination he remained the man who "painted horrors in the Escorial" in the words of Ephraim Chambers' Cyclopaedia in 1899.[94]
In 1908, Spanish art historian Manuel Bartolomé Cossío published the first comprehensive catalogue of El Greco's works; in this book El Greco was presented as the founder of the Spanish School.[95] The same year Julius Meier-Graefe, a scholar of French Impressionism, traveled in Spain, expecting to study Velásquez, but instead becoming fascinated by El Greco; he recorded his experiences in Spanische Reise (Spanish Journey, published in English in 1926), the book which widely established El Greco as a great painter of the past "outside a somewhat narrow circle".[96] In El Greco's work, Meier-Graefe found foreshadowing of modernity.[97] These are the words Meier-Graefe used to describe El Greco's impact on the artistic movements of his time:
He [El Greco] has discovered a realm of new possibilities. Not even he, himself, was able to exhaust them. All the generations that follow after him live in his realm. There is a greater difference between him and Titian, his master, than between him and Renoir or Cézanne. Nevertheless, Renoir and Cézanne are masters of impeccable originality because it is not possible to avail yourself of El Greco's language, if in using it, it is not invented again and again, by the user.
— Julius Meier-Graefe, The Spanish Journey[98]
To the English artist and critic Roger Fry in 1920, El Greco was the archetypal genius who did as he thought best "with complete indifference to what effect the right expression might have on the public". Fry described El Greco as "an old master who is not merely modern, but actually appears a good many steps ahead of us, turning back to show us the way".[33]
During the same period, other researchers developed alternative, more radical theories. The ophthalmologists August Goldschmidt and Germán Beritens argued that El Greco painted such elongated human figures because he had vision problems (possibly progressive astigmatism or strabismus) that made him see bodies longer than they were, and at an angle to the perpendicular;[99][k] the physician Arturo Perera, however, attributed this style to the use of marijuana.[104] Michael Kimmelman, a reviewer for The New York Times, stated that "to Greeks [El Greco] became the quintessential Greek painter; to the Spanish, the quintessential Spaniard".[33]
Epitomizing the consensus of El Greco's impact, Jimmy Carter, the 39th President of the United States, said in April 1980 that El Greco was "the most extraordinary painter that ever came along back then" and that he was "maybe three or four centuries ahead of his time".[92]
Influence on other artists
[edit]
See also: Boy Leading a Horse
According to Efi Foundoulaki, "painters and theoreticians from the beginning of the 20th century 'discovered' a new El Greco but in process they also discovered and revealed their own selves".[105] His expressiveness and colors influenced Eugène Delacroix and Édouard Manet.[106] To the Blaue Reiter group in Munich in 1912, El Greco typified that mystical inner construction that it was the task of their generation to rediscover.[107] The first painter who appears to have noticed the structural code in the morphology of the mature El Greco was Paul Cézanne, one of the forerunners of Cubism.[89] Comparative morphological analyses of the two painters revealed their common elements, such as the distortion of the human body, the reddish and (in appearance only) unworked backgrounds and the similarities in the rendering of space.[108] According to Brown, "Cézanne and El Greco are spiritual brothers despite the centuries which separate them".[109] Fry observed that Cézanne drew from "his great discovery of the permeation of every part of the design with a uniform and continuous plastic theme".[110]
The Symbolists, and Pablo Picasso during his Blue Period, drew on the cold tonality of El Greco, utilizing the anatomy of his ascetic figures. While Picasso was working on his Proto-Cubist Les Demoiselles d'Avignon, he visited his friend Ignacio Zuloaga in his studio in Paris and studied El Greco's Opening of the Fifth Seal (owned by Zuloaga since 1897).[111] The relation between Les Demoiselles d'Avignon and the Opening of the Fifth Seal was pinpointed in the early 1980s, when the stylistic similarities and the relationship between the motifs of both works were analysed.[112]
The early Cubist explorations of Picasso were to uncover other aspects in the work of El Greco: structural analysis of his compositions, multi-faced refraction of form, interweaving of form and space, and special effects of highlights. Several traits of Cubism, such as distortions and the materialistic rendering of time, have their analogies in El Greco's work. According to Picasso, El Greco's structure is Cubist.[113] On 22 February 1950, Picasso began his series of "paraphrases" of other painters' works with The Portrait of a Painter after El Greco.[114] Foundoulaki asserts that Picasso "completed ... the process for the activation of the painterly values of El Greco which had been started by Manet and carried on by Cézanne".[115]
The expressionists focused on the expressive distortions of El Greco. According to Franz Marc, one of the principal painters of the German expressionist movement, "we refer with pleasure and with steadfastness to the case of El Greco, because the glory of this painter is closely tied to the evolution of our new perceptions on art".[116] Jackson Pollock, a major force in the abstract expressionist movement, was also influenced by El Greco. By 1943, Pollock had completed sixty drawing compositions after El Greco and owned three books on the Cretan master.[117]
Pollock influenced the artist Joseph Glasco's interest in El Greco's art. Glasco created several contemporary paintings based on one of his favorite subjects, El Greco's View of Toledo.[118]
Kysa Johnson used El Greco's paintings of the Immaculate Conception as the compositional framework for some of her works, and the master's anatomical distortions are somewhat reflected in Fritz Chesnut's portraits.[119]
El Greco's personality and work were a source of inspiration for poet Rainer Maria Rilke. One set of Rilke's poems (Himmelfahrt Mariae I.II., 1913) was based directly on El Greco's Immaculate Conception.[120] Greek writer Nikos Kazantzakis, who felt a great spiritual affinity for El Greco, called his autobiography Report to Greco and wrote a tribute to the Cretan-born artist.[121]
In 1998, the Greek electronic composer and artist Vangelis published El Greco, a symphonic album inspired by the artist. This album is an expansion of an earlier album by Vangelis, Foros Timis Ston Greco (A Tribute to El Greco, Φόρος Τιμής Στον Γκρέκο). The life of the Cretan-born artist is the subject of the film El Greco of Greek, Spanish and British production. Directed by Ioannis Smaragdis, the film began shooting in October 2006 on the island of Crete and debuted on the screen one year later;[122] British actor Nick Ashdon was cast to play El Greco.[123]
In reference to El Greco, the Austrian artist Matthias Laurenz Gräff created his large-format religious triptych "Weltenalegorie" (World allegory) in 2009, which contains various figures from El Greco's paintings.
Debates on attribution
[edit]
The exact number of El Greco's works has been a hotly contested issue. In 1937, a highly influential study by art historian Rodolfo Pallucchini had the effect of greatly increasing the number of works accepted to be by El Greco. Pallucchini attributed to El Greco a small triptych in the Galleria Estense at Modena on the basis of a signature on the painting on the back of the central panel on the Modena triptych ("Χείρ Δομήνιϰου", Created by the hand of Doménikos).[124] There was consensus that the triptych was indeed an early work of El Greco and, therefore, Pallucchini's publication became the yardstick for attributions to the artist.[125] Nevertheless, Wethey denied that the Modena triptych had any connection at all with the artist and, in 1962, produced a reactive catalogue raisonné with a greatly reduced corpus of materials. Whereas art historian José Camón Aznar had attributed between 787 and 829 paintings to the Cretan master, Wethey reduced the number to 285 authentic works and Halldor Sœhner, a German researcher of Spanish art, recognized only 137.[126] Wethey and other scholars rejected the notion that Crete took any part in his formation and supported the elimination of a series of works from El Greco's œuvre.[127]
Since 1962, the discovery of the Dormition and the extensive archival research has gradually convinced scholars that Wethey's assessments were not entirely correct, and that his catalogue decisions may have distorted the perception of the whole nature of El Greco's origins, development and œuvre. The discovery of the Dormition led to the attribution of three other signed works of "Doménicos" to El Greco (Modena Triptych, St. Luke Painting the Virgin and Child, and The Adoration of the Magi) and then to the acceptance of more works as authentic—some signed, some not (such as The Passion of Christ (Pietà with Angels) painted in 1566),[128]—which were brought into the group of early works of El Greco. El Greco is now seen as an artist with a formative training on Crete; a series of works illuminate his early style, some painted while he was still on Crete, some from his period in Venice, and some from his subsequent stay in Rome.[4] Even Wethey accepted that "he [El Greco] probably had painted the little and much disputed triptych in the Galleria Estense at Modena before he left Crete".[25] Nevertheless, disputes over the exact number of El Greco's authentic works remain unresolved, and the status of Wethey's catalogue raisonné is at the center of these disagreements.[129]
A few sculptures, including Epimetheus and Pandora, have been attributed to El Greco. This doubtful attribution is based on the testimony of Pacheco (he saw in El Greco's studio a series of figurines, but these may have been merely models). There are also four drawings among the surviving works of El Greco; three of them are preparatory works for the altarpiece of Santo Domingo el Antiguo and the fourth is a study for one of his paintings, The Crucifixion.[130]
Gallery
[edit]
The Annunciation
The Madonna of Charity
The Immaculate Conception
Christ Driving the Money Changers from the Temple
Christ Healing the Blind
Christ as Saviour
The Nobleman with his Hand on his Chest
The Stigmatization of St Francis
Saint Jerome
Saint Jerome
Portrait of a cardinal
Fray Hortensio Félix Paravicino
Portrait of Dr. Francisco de Pisa
Portrait of a Bearded Man
Nazi-looted art
[edit]
In 2010 the heirs of the Baron Mor Lipot Herzog, a Jewish Hungarian art collector who had been looted by the Nazis, filed a restitution claim for El Greco's The Agony in the Garden.[131][132] In 2015, El Greco's Portrait of a Gentleman, which had been looted by the Nazis from German Jewish art collector Julius Priester in 1944, was returned to his heirs after it surfaced at an auction with a fake provenance.[133] According to Anne Webber, co-chair of the Commission for Looted Art in Europe, the painting's provenance had been "scrubbed".[134]
See also
[edit]
El Greco Museum, Toledo, Spain
Museum of El Greco, Fodele, Crete
Notes
[edit]
Citations
[edit]
References
[edit]
Books and articles
Online sources
Further reading
[edit]
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https://www.elcamino.edu/academics/transfer-center/
|
en
|
El Camino College
|
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en
|
https://www.elcamino.edu/academics/transfer-center/index.php
|
Start Your Transfer Journey
Understanding university admission requirements can sometimes seem complicated and overwhelming, but we can help you prepare and work towards becoming an eligible applicant to the university.
We'll help you look at all of your university options, make a good decision on where to transfer, and plan a road map to the university of your choice. It can be a smooth and easy process if you have all the information you need.
Transfer Success
|
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https://www.middlebury.edu/schools-abroad/schools/spain/profiles
|
en
|
Student Profiles
|
https://www.middlebury.edu/schools-abroad/themes/custom/schools_abroad_theme/favicon.ico?fv=QIOYMdwP
|
https://www.middlebury.edu/schools-abroad/themes/custom/schools_abroad_theme/favicon.ico?fv=QIOYMdwP
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2023-08-09T11:56:01-04:00
|
Read about past Middlebury School in Spain students' experiences in their own words.
|
en
|
/schools-abroad/themes/custom/schools_abroad_theme/favicon.ico?fv=QIOYMdwP
|
Middlebury Schools Abroad
|
https://www.middlebury.edu/schools-abroad/schools/spain/profiles
|
Program alumni are the best resources for students interested in going abroad, and they are available to answer your questions. If you would like to talk to a recent student about their experience in Spain, get in touch with the advisor, Nicole Chance.
Morin Tinubu, Williams College, Madrid
After attending college remotely and navigating the pandemic, I was eager to leave the close quarters of my home and live in Madrid for a semester. That being said, I did not expect to create roots and lasting relationships along the way. As a non-Middlebury student, I was nervous to form new relationships but the students and teachers in my program were very kind. The friends that I made at the Sede Prim had the common goal of improving their Spanish and learning more about Spanish culture, which made our interactions meaningful. Together we took day trips to Segovia, Cuenca, and El Escorial. While we were there, we visited century-old cathedrals, roamed museums, and ate traditional cuisine.
My roots in Spain did not end at the Sede Prim. I lived in a student residence where I got to know other Spaniards studying at nearby universities. Everyone at my residence supported me as I worked hard to improve my Spanish. In fact, I think that my residence was where I learned the most. Being around Spaniards my age and navigating life with them exposed me to new ways of speaking and expressing myself. Just after a month, I found myself using slang and being well-versed in Spanish pop culture.
Some of my most impactful experiences came from my time volunteering with T-Oigo, an organization that connects Spanish children who have hearing impairments with Americans. I was paired with a 5-year-old boy named Álvaro and his 8-year-old brother, Jaime and every week we would play games and read books together. I loved working with Álvaro because I felt like a part of his family and it was amazing seeing him come out of his shell and speak more English.
Leaving the US and being away from home came with new challenges but also with so many great experiences. My semester abroad in Spain helped me grow as a person and develop new aspirations I never had before. Although I do not know what the future will hold, I hope to return to Spain and teach there so that I can give back to the community that has given me so much.
Ryan Kovarovics, Bowdoin College, Getafe
The energy of Madrid and the warmth of the Spanish people are what made my study abroad experience as great as it was. Madrid is a 24/7 city, very different than quiet, closed at 9pm Brunswick, Maine where Bowdoin is located. I enjoyed living in a city for a semester, especially one that is as easy to get around and as full of things to do as Madrid. I think that you could do a different day trip from the city every weekend for a year and not run out of places to go, not to mention all the awesome things to see (and eat) in the city itself.
Madrid is a cosmopolitan city that is full of people from all over Spain and the world, and my student residence was no different. I got to live alongside Spanish speakers from every region of the country as well as students from Mexico, the Dominican Republic, Argentina, and more. Eating dinner with them in the dining hall every night provided me with an opportunity to greatly improve my Spanish in a non-academic context, as well as get to know a variety of accents and slang terms. While I sometimes wished I had a host family, I was very glad to live in a residence for the freedom that it provided as well as the diversity of friends it introduced me to.
The Spanish education system took some getting used to, but my professors at Universidad Carlos III de Madrid were extremely willing to help me work through challenges and cultural differences. My Spanish Politics professor even set up special tutoring sessions so that the international students could catch up to the native students in our understanding of the Spanish political system (which also took some getting used to). I was even able to do some very interesting research into the controversial decolonization of the Spanish Sahara alongside Spanish classmates in my Contemporary History of Spain class.
One of my favorite parts of my time in Madrid was the church community I found at the Parroquia Nuestra Señora del Buen Suceso, or BuenSu. The people (also from all over Spain and the world) that I met there were incredible, and the energy exuded by hundreds of young Catholics belting out songs at the top of their lungs after mass was really special. Given the cultural importance of the Catholic Church in Spain’s history, it was cool to experience that aspect of Spain in such a warm atmosphere.
Maha Khan, Barnard College, Getafe and Madrid
Before embarking on my study abroad journey, I was set on spending the entire year in Spain, split between two cities. Little did I know that the Spanish capital would enchant me and be my home for two semesters. It’s hard not to fall in love with Madrid. There is something for everyone in the colorful metropolis and being right in the center of Spain, you’re in the best position to travel and explore other parts of the country.
During my time in Madrid, I took Zumba classes, taught English to a playful little 4 year old, attended language exchanges and met new people, went to a gym located inside one of the biggest subway stations in Madrid (which was really cool), took advantage of the amazing student fare for unlimited transit, and of course ate and photographed my way around the city and the country with the wonderful friends I made through the program.
While the Spanish university system is rather different from the American liberal arts model, my classmates and professors at the Carlos III made sure that the international students were well-transitioned into the system. In my class Journalism and Social Change in Spain, we met a well-known Spanish journalist who talked to us about reporting on the frontlines of crisis. I also learned so much about Spanish culture and current events from my classes and professors at the Sede Prim. Not to mention that the Sede Prim is so perfectly located in the center of Madrid, which made it easy to explore the city’s restaurants, museums, and cultural sights by foot.
Living and interacting in Spanish allowed my language skills to improve tremendously. I am so grateful to have been able to have this experience and as a result, I have become a more independent, adventurous, and confident person.
Kate Sabo, University of Connecticut, Madrid
Before leaving my home in Connecticut, I expected my study abroad to be like picking up my life and moving it overseas for a semester. What I ended up doing was more like leaving my life in the US behind and stepping into a whole new one, in the bright and bustling city of Madrid. Upon my arrival, I was enamored with the sights and sounds of the city and immediately felt welcomed by my host family and the friendly faces who greeted me at the Sede Prim. I quickly learned to drop all expectations and open myself to the innumerable opportunities at my disposal– and that was all it took to prepare myself for a semester of new friends, new foods, eye-opening travels, and profound cultural learning. During my time abroad, I made myself at home in Madrid, eagerly practicing and improving my Spanish communication skills, mastering the Madrid metro, becoming a regular at my favorite cafetería, and making friends that I was heartbroken to leave, but have enjoyed keeping in touch with over Whatsapp. One of the highlights of my experience was volunteering with T-Oigo, an organization that pairs children with hearing disabilities with English native-speaking “buddies” to support their English language acquisition. My buddy was a bubbly and energetic 7-year old girl and we were instant best friends. Every Wednesday, I looked forward to chatting with her mother, who would give me an ice cream bar and muse over her daughter’s impressive progress in English class, before spending the hour with my buddy, drawing, playing games, and singing our favorite songs from Frozen or Moana. The time I spent living in Madrid was transformative for my Spanish language skills, cultural perspective, and career goals. I look forward to carrying what I’ve learned and experienced during my semester in Spain close to the heart, wherever life takes me!
Abbey Minondo, Williams College, Logroño
Who would have thought that my decision to study abroad in the semi-remote town of Logroño would not only be an exquisite memory of delectable Spanish pinchos and potes, but would also allow me to road trip across Northern Spain with students like myself from across the globe?! From savory, paper-thin cuts of jamón ibérico to thick triangles of tortilla Española, I truly ate my way through the Spanish coastline and countryside. Every morning I would begin my day by waking up and running along the Camino de Santiago, criss-crossing vineyards and wineries which characterize La Rioja’s patchwork-esque landscapes. On weekends when I was not traveling far, I would take a short ride up to Bilbao to soak up some art and culture in the small fishing town which rakes the sky with Frank Gehry’s architectural masterpiece: the Guggenheim. This semester was full of indulgences: I feasted on learning the technical terms of my economics classes in Spanish, I completely devoured the French grammar and vocabulary which I craved to learn and even served up some of my French skills at a couple different tourist attractions in Biarritz! If you’re hungry for an extraordinary experience in a not-your-typical-European-study-abroad setting, Logroño might treat you as right as it did me!
Bryn Miller, Claremont McKenna College, Córdoba
When people ask me what studying in Córdoba was like, I often say I felt like I was in the Claremont McKenna College of Spanish study abroad – and I mean that in the best way. The orange trees, sunshine, and hiking trails made me feel right at home. More importantly, Córdoba’s small size and the friendly atmosphere felt similar to my college campus. On my ten-minute walk to school through the gates of Córdoba’s ancient city walls, or in the main plaza at night, I usually ran into Spanish students I knew from my classes or European students I had met through Erasmus events. I had prepared myself to have far less of a community in Spain, so I was pleasantly surprised that my experience in Córdoba was full of friendly and familiar faces. Obviously, studying in Córdoba was very different than studying in Claremont, California. The transition from a small liberal arts college to a large Spanish university was a challenge, but I really enjoyed my classes after I figured out how to navigate the new system. The dean of the university taught my favorite course, Historia de La España Medieval. I learned how to conduct archival research in Spanish and absorbed knowledge that was very helpful in some of my classes in Claremont this spring. After school, I went to spin classes, ran along the river at sunset, wandered the streets of the old city, or studied on the Patio de las Naranjas looking up at the bell-tower of the spectacular mezquita-catedral. Every weekday, I ate lunch and dinner with my four Spanish roommates and hung out with them after we ate, chatting and watching TV. For students that want independence and love the community feel of smaller colleges, I could not recommend Córdoba enough for study abroad.
|
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https://www.w3schools.com/mysql/mysql_like.asp
|
en
|
MySQL LIKE Operator
|
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W3Schools offers free online tutorials, references and exercises in all the major languages of the web. Covering popular subjects like HTML, CSS, JavaScript, Python, SQL, Java, and many, many more.
|
en
|
https://www.w3schools.com/favicon.ico
| null |
The MySQL LIKE Operator
The LIKE operator is used in a WHERE clause to search for a specified pattern in a column.
There are two wildcards often used in conjunction with the LIKE operator:
The percent sign (%) represents zero, one, or multiple characters
The underscore sign (_) represents one, single character
The percent sign and the underscore can also be used in combinations!
LIKE Syntax
Here are some examples showing different LIKE operators with '%' and '_' wildcards:
LIKE Operator Description WHERE CustomerName LIKE 'a%' Finds any values that start with "a" WHERE CustomerName LIKE '%a' Finds any values that end with "a" WHERE CustomerName LIKE '%or%' Finds any values that have "or" in any position WHERE CustomerName LIKE '_r%' Finds any values that have "r" in the second position WHERE CustomerName LIKE 'a_%' Finds any values that start with "a" and are at least 2 characters in length WHERE CustomerName LIKE 'a__%' Finds any values that start with "a" and are at least 3 characters in length WHERE ContactName LIKE 'a%o' Finds any values that start with "a" and ends with "o"
Demo Database
The table below shows the complete "Customers" table from the Northwind sample database:
SQL LIKE Examples
The following SQL statement selects all customers with a CustomerName starting with "a":
The following SQL statement selects all customers with a CustomerName ending with "a":
The following SQL statement selects all customers with a CustomerName that have "or" in any position:
The following SQL statement selects all customers with a CustomerName that have "r" in the second position:
The following SQL statement selects all customers with a CustomerName that starts with "a" and are at least 3 characters in length:
The following SQL statement selects all customers with a ContactName that starts with "a" and ends with "o":
The following SQL statement selects all customers with a CustomerName that does NOT start with "a":
Test Yourself With Exercises
Exercise:
Select all records where the value of the City column starts with the letter "a".
SELECT * FROM Customers ;
Start the Exercise
|
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http://amawalker.blogspot.com/2011/03/rise-and-fall-of-pilgrimage-to-saint.html
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en
|
amaWalker: The Rise, the fall and the Revival of the pilgrimage to Saint James …… and the Rise of 'The Camino'
|
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[
""
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[
"View my complete profile"
] | null |
Pilgrimages to the different Christian shrines in Europe today are perceived differently - although I'm sure this was not the case origina...
|
en
|
http://amawalker.blogspot.com/favicon.ico
|
http://amawalker.blogspot.com/2011/03/rise-and-fall-of-pilgrimage-to-saint.html
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https://www.trailportraits.ca/camino-de-santiago-pilgrim-portraits-april-11-2023/
|
en
|
Camino de Santiago Pilgrim Portraits: April 11, 2023
|
[
"https://www.trailportraits.ca/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/jamie-dietrich-portugues-camino-portraits-April-11-2023-Patrick-and-Virginia.jpg",
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[
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[
"Admin"
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2023-07-03T20:09:44+00:00
|
Anticipation was building. We were just two days now from Santiago and the number of pilgrims with us was increasing. The merge of the coastal and central routes in Redondela doubled our numbers, and the many people walking only the final 100 km of the Camino made it so you could always see pilgrims in… Read More »Camino de Santiago Pilgrim Portraits: April 11, 2023
|
en
|
Trail Portraits by Jamie Dietrich
|
https://www.trailportraits.ca/camino-de-santiago-pilgrim-portraits-april-11-2023/
|
Anticipation was building. We were just two days now from Santiago and the number of pilgrims with us was increasing. The merge of the coastal and central routes in Redondela doubled our numbers, and the many people walking only the final 100 km of the Camino made it so you could always see pilgrims in front of and behind you.
Patrick and Karen
Patrick and Karen were from Virginia, USA. They both worked for the US Federal Government. She worked in the State Department teaching and coaching diplomats as they travelled around the world. This was their first Camino.
We reached Padron early in the afternoon and found an albergue that had a room for the four of us. The ladies bunk had a wide yellow stripe painted on the floor around it. I think it was marking a tripping hazard but it instantly reminded me of the 1980’s TV sitcom WKRP in Cincinatti. Les Nessman, a quirky character in the show, wanted his own office. He put yellow tape around his desk to outline his imaginary office. Nearess instantly became “Les Nearess Nessman”, or “Les” for short.
Carolen also received a name. She usually ended each day with some yoga exercises, but didn’t always have a place to practice other than her bunk. She insisted the bunk was working out well so we named her “Bunk Yogi”.
Rebeca
Rebeca was the hostess at Albergue a Barca de Pedra, a cozy little hotel in the old streets of Padron. She was very informative about the town and the Little Easter festival we had stumbled upon.
In Padron, carnival rides and games lined the riverside. Four giant white tents offered octopus and seafood meals to eager locals. Octopus, a delicacy in the area, was boiled in big copper cauldrons, then cut into bite-size pieces using scissors. Generous servings were placed on wooden platters and served with a crusty local bread. Red wine was drank from white bowls.
The big attraction was music. Two local marching bands played, marched, and played again in several locations around town. The locals followed them from place to place. A main stage filled the south end of town with popular music until 3 am, and a smaller stage a block from our albergue had a cover band playing until 2am. Different bands would play each night for a week.
We walked 31.9 km on this our second last day.
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https://www.aspenpublicradio.org/community/2023-07-20/bilingual-public-lands-map-designed-to-get-latino-community-onto-the-roaring-fork-valleys-trails
|
en
|
Bilingual public lands map designed to get Latino community onto the Roaring Fork Valley’s trails
|
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[
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] | null |
[
"Caroline Llanes",
"www.aspenpublicradio.org",
"caroline-llanes"
] |
2023-07-20T00:00:00
|
“El Camino Latino,” from advocacy group Defiende Nuestra Tierra, is a map of public lands in the Roaring Fork and Colorado River valleys. It has information on recreation in both English and Spanish, with the hopes of making the outdoors more accessible for everyone.
|
en
|
/apple-touch-icon.png
|
Aspen Public Radio
|
https://www.aspenpublicradio.org/community/2023-07-20/bilingual-public-lands-map-designed-to-get-latino-community-onto-the-roaring-fork-valleys-trails
|
Pueden encontrar la versión en español aquí.
Editor’s note: Spanish quotes are translated in parentheses and italics, following the original quote.
Trini Rochin and her husband Jaime Lopez love to walk on the Rio Grande Trail near their home in Carbondale. And on a cloudless Saturday morning, they’re ready to hike to Mushroom Rock in the Red Hill Recreation Area in Carbondale.
They’d love to be able to hike with their friends, but they often go alone because their friends don’t feel comfortable navigating the trails without information in Spanish.
“Pienso que tal vez, el no saber dónde están, qué tan difíciles son,” she said.
(“I think that sometimes, they don’t know where [these places] are, or how difficult they are.”)
And a lot of the time, their Spanish-speaking friends and others in the Latino community don’t have the time or energy to do that research on their own.
“Y también el trabajo, mucha gente hispana trabaja muchas horas, y cuando llegan, ya están cansados y no quieren salir a hacer ejercicio,” she said.
(“And also work. A lot of Hispanic people work long hours, and when they get home, they’re tired and don’t want to go out and exercise.”)
Those kinds of issues are what a new map from the local advocacy group Defiende Nuestra Tierra — part of Carbondale-based Wilderness Workshop — is hoping to address.
“El Camino Latino” features 19 areas on public lands around the Roaring Fork and Colorado River Valleys. It also includes information on what you can do there, like hiking, biking, camping, and picnicking, how difficult the trails are, and whether the area has bilingual signage.
Red Hill is one of the areas with bilingual signage. Those trailhead signs include information about trail etiquette and the “Leave No Trace” principles, as well as background on the ecosystem of the red rock formations.
That made it the perfect destination for Defiende Nuestra Tierra to hand out the first copies of the map to the public.
Omar Sarabia is the director. He’s been working on the map for a little over a year, and encouraging agencies like the White River National Forest to translate trail signs into Spanish.
“Y la intención de esto es generar cultura de la caminata, del al aire libre, sobre todo después de COVID, que todo el mundo estaba encerrado y que ahora mucha gente dice ‘donde salgo’ y ‘no sé,’ pues este mapa lo agarras y dices ‘ok, tengo 16 opciones, a donde puedo ir?”
(“The intention is to create this culture of hiking, of the outdoors. Especially after COVID, when everyone was stuck inside and now, lots of people are saying ‘Where do I go? I don’t know.’ Now, you can grab this map and say, ‘Ok, I have 16 options, where can I go?’”)
Sarabia grew up in Chihuahua, far away from any of Mexico’s national parks. He says the idea of public lands as they exist in Colorado is a new concept for many immigrants.
“We don’t have many places to do hikes [in Chihuahua], because a lot of the land is private, so you have to find out places that you’re not going to get in trouble to hike, but it’s hard,” he said.
Back on the trail, Trini Rochin is excited about the map, bilingual signage and what it could mean for her and her friends. Now, she says, they can head out onto the valley’s trails with confidence and less fear of getting lost.
“Porque hay veces hay mapas en los lugares y los Latinos no puede entenderlos, o no podemos, y tenerlo en tu idioma va a ayudar mucho a que la comunidad Latina puede ir con confianza a los lugares, sin temor a perderse.”
(“Sometimes there are maps in these places and Latinos can’t understand them, and to have them in your language will help the community to be able to go with confidence to these places without fear of getting lost.”)
The hike was also a valuable opportunity for Sarabia to get feedback on what can be included on future versions of El Camino Latino.
For example, another hiker, Carlos Cornejo, pointed out that people might appreciate information on wildlife they may encounter — like bears.
“Yo no se porque, pero en general la comunidad tiene mucho miedo a los osos. Dicen va a ver osos de aquí, va a ver los allí, ver los osos a todos lados. Tienes información sobre eso? Porque a veces son mitos, pero por miedo las personas no saben.”
(“I don’t know why, but in general, the community is really afraid of bears. They say, ‘You’ll see bears here, there, bears everywhere.’ Do you have information about this? Because sometimes there are myths, but people just don't know.”)
This is the kind of thing that English-speaking outdoor enthusiasts in the Roaring Fork Valley take for granted, that there’s information about wildlife. And in a culture so centered on the outdoors, that can be alienating for Spanish speakers who live in the community.
For Rochin, that’s another important part of the map: helping her community feel like it belongs on Colorado’s trails.
“Y sentirnos parte de… vivimos aquí, y tenemos total libertad a salir y disfrutar, y oxigenarnos… si.”
(“And to feel like we’re a part of… we live here, and we have total freedom to go out and enjoy the outdoors, get fresh air… yes.”)
|
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https://www.history.com/topics/exploration/francisco-vazquez-de-coronado
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en
|
Francisco Vázquez de Coronado ‑ Facts, Routes & Wife
|
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[
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] | null |
[
"Matt Mullen",
"History.com Editors"
] |
2009-11-09T14:10:47+00:00
|
Francisco Vázquez de Coronado (c. 1510‑1554) was a 16th‑century Spanish explorer. In 1540, Coronado led a major Spanish expedition up Mexico’s western coast and into the region that is now the southwestern United States.
|
en
|
HISTORY
|
https://www.history.com/topics/exploration/francisco-vazquez-de-coronado
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Francisco Vázquez de Coronado’s Early Life and Career
Born circa 1510 into a noble family in Salamanca, Spain, Coronado was a younger son, and as such did not stand to inherit the family title or estate. As such, he decided to seek his fortune in the New World. In 1535, he traveled to New Spain (as Mexico was then known) with Antonio de Mendoza, the Spanish viceroy, whom his family had ties with from his father’s service as royal administrator in Granada.
Within a year after his arrival, Coronado married Beatriz, the young daughter of Alonso de Estrada, former colonial treasurer. The match earned him one of the largest estates in New Spain. In 1537, Coronado gained Mendoza’s approval by successfully putting down rebellions by black slaves and Indians working in the mines. The following year, he was appointed as governor of the province of Nueva Galicia, a region that comprised much of what became the Mexican states of Jalisco, Nayarit and Sinaloa.
De Coronado’s Search for the Seven Golden Cities
By 1540, reports brought back from explorations made by Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca and confirmed by missionary Fray Marcos de Niza convinced Mendoza of the presence of vast riches to the north, located in the so-called Seven Golden Cities of Cíbola.
Excited by the prospect of such immense wealth, Coronado joined Mendoza as an investor in a major expedition, which he himself would lead, of some 300 Spaniards and more than 1,000 Native Americans, along with many horses, pigs, ships and cattle. The main thrust of the expedition departed in February 1540 from Compostela, the capital of Nueva Galicia.
Four arduous months later, Coronado led an advance group of cavalrymen to the first city of Cíbola, which in reality was the Zuni Pueblo town of Hawikuh, located in what would become New Mexico. When the Indians resisted Spanish efforts to subdue the town, the better-armed Spaniards forced their way in and caused the Zunis to flee; Coronado was hit by a stone and wounded during the battle.
Finding no riches, Coronado’s men set out on further explorations of the region. During one of these smaller expeditions, García López de Cárdenas became the first European to sight the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River in what is now Arizona. Another group, led by Pedro de Tovar, traveled to the Colorado Plateau.
Failure of Expedition and Coronado’s Return to Mexico
Coronado’s reunited expedition spent the winter of 1540-41 on the Rio Grande at Kuana (near modern-day Santa Fe). They fought off several Indian attacks, and in the spring of 1541 moved into Palo Duro Canyon, in modern-day Texas. Coronado himself then led a smaller group north in search of another rumored store of riches at Quivira (now Kansas), only to be disappointed again when all they found was another Indian village.
Coronado returned to Mexico in 1542 and resumed his post in Nueva Galicia, but his wealth had been greatly depleted and his position was far more tenuous than before. Mendoza publicly dismissed the expedition as a failure, and two separate investigations were opened into Coronado’s conduct as its leader. He was largely cleared of all charges, but was removed from his governorship in 1544 and spent the last decade of his life as a member of the city council of Mexico City.
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