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61,233
Do *special* numbers (transcendental number, first few elements of a certain sequences and so on ...) make good passwords in terms of brute force breaking ? EDIT: Why am I asking this ? A friend of mine is composing a list of few recommendations on how people in his workplace should choose passwords. From what he told me, he used a "standard" one at first (you know, "choose your password from one to six letters and two numbers ...") and came to a conclusion that most people just ignore those recommendations and just uses passwords like "password", "date of birth", ... So he decided to *invent* a list of *more interesting* recommendations, hoping it will motivate people to at least give it some thought. And so we started thinking on what to put on the list that could prove useful.
2009/10/27
[ "https://superuser.com/questions/61233", "https://superuser.com", "https://superuser.com/users/2127/" ]
Yes, some numbers make awesome passwords, if you hold down alt while typing them on the numpad. 130 = é 132 = ä And so forth.
If you really want to be secure, you don't want to use any word from the dictionary in your password; even if you replace all "a" with "@", or "s" with "5", or "e" with "3", etc. If it's a word from the dictionary it can be guessed, and most people choose a word that means something to them any which would make it easier for someone who knows them to guess. What you really want to do is pick a completely random combination of letters, numbers and symbols. This way the only way to brute force attack the password is to guess all combinations possible, instead of doing what is called a "Dictionary Attack". A "Dictionary Attack" is when the attacker guesses passwords based on going through the dictionary.
61,233
Do *special* numbers (transcendental number, first few elements of a certain sequences and so on ...) make good passwords in terms of brute force breaking ? EDIT: Why am I asking this ? A friend of mine is composing a list of few recommendations on how people in his workplace should choose passwords. From what he told me, he used a "standard" one at first (you know, "choose your password from one to six letters and two numbers ...") and came to a conclusion that most people just ignore those recommendations and just uses passwords like "password", "date of birth", ... So he decided to *invent* a list of *more interesting* recommendations, hoping it will motivate people to at least give it some thought. And so we started thinking on what to put on the list that could prove useful.
2009/10/27
[ "https://superuser.com/questions/61233", "https://superuser.com", "https://superuser.com/users/2127/" ]
In terms of brute force, there's no such thing as a "good" password, except to maximize the keyspace. Brute force will take on average just as long if you're using special numbers as it will otherwise. In response to your edit: it sounds like you're trying to get people away from passwords that can be guessed easily with a dictionary attack or social engineering (e.g. birth date). You might consider providing some passwords that are easy to remember that won't fall to these attacks easily. One website I've seen provides passwords made up of two small words separated by a number, e.g.: hair123car, pole18dog, etc... You could generate these easily with a list of small (3-5 character) words and a number generator. They might not be very strong passwords, but they'll fare better than "password" and they're nicer for the user than "$0mEh4rDP@sSw0rD".
One easy way to test this yourself would be to create a document in Word (or a new zipfile in Winzip) and password the file. Now download one of the many free password cracking programs and see how long it takes to crack the file. I've done a few of these lately (for legitimate work reasons, people leaving on short notice, leaving behind important files with unknown passwords). Throwing a dictionary-based cracker at a file with a simple password takes milliseconds to crack. Brute-forcing a file with a six digit numeric password (especially when you know its numeric) takes a few seconds, it really doesn't matter how mathematically obscure your number is, a brute force cracker just tries them all. Once you expand to non-dictionary words with more than six characters with a mix of character types (lower-case, upper-case, numbers, keyboard symbols, special characters) the time taken goes up exponentially.
61,233
Do *special* numbers (transcendental number, first few elements of a certain sequences and so on ...) make good passwords in terms of brute force breaking ? EDIT: Why am I asking this ? A friend of mine is composing a list of few recommendations on how people in his workplace should choose passwords. From what he told me, he used a "standard" one at first (you know, "choose your password from one to six letters and two numbers ...") and came to a conclusion that most people just ignore those recommendations and just uses passwords like "password", "date of birth", ... So he decided to *invent* a list of *more interesting* recommendations, hoping it will motivate people to at least give it some thought. And so we started thinking on what to put on the list that could prove useful.
2009/10/27
[ "https://superuser.com/questions/61233", "https://superuser.com", "https://superuser.com/users/2127/" ]
Yes, some numbers make awesome passwords, if you hold down alt while typing them on the numpad. 130 = é 132 = ä And so forth.
One easy way to test this yourself would be to create a document in Word (or a new zipfile in Winzip) and password the file. Now download one of the many free password cracking programs and see how long it takes to crack the file. I've done a few of these lately (for legitimate work reasons, people leaving on short notice, leaving behind important files with unknown passwords). Throwing a dictionary-based cracker at a file with a simple password takes milliseconds to crack. Brute-forcing a file with a six digit numeric password (especially when you know its numeric) takes a few seconds, it really doesn't matter how mathematically obscure your number is, a brute force cracker just tries them all. Once you expand to non-dictionary words with more than six characters with a mix of character types (lower-case, upper-case, numbers, keyboard symbols, special characters) the time taken goes up exponentially.
61,233
Do *special* numbers (transcendental number, first few elements of a certain sequences and so on ...) make good passwords in terms of brute force breaking ? EDIT: Why am I asking this ? A friend of mine is composing a list of few recommendations on how people in his workplace should choose passwords. From what he told me, he used a "standard" one at first (you know, "choose your password from one to six letters and two numbers ...") and came to a conclusion that most people just ignore those recommendations and just uses passwords like "password", "date of birth", ... So he decided to *invent* a list of *more interesting* recommendations, hoping it will motivate people to at least give it some thought. And so we started thinking on what to put on the list that could prove useful.
2009/10/27
[ "https://superuser.com/questions/61233", "https://superuser.com", "https://superuser.com/users/2127/" ]
In terms of brute force, there's no such thing as a "good" password, except to maximize the keyspace. Brute force will take on average just as long if you're using special numbers as it will otherwise. In response to your edit: it sounds like you're trying to get people away from passwords that can be guessed easily with a dictionary attack or social engineering (e.g. birth date). You might consider providing some passwords that are easy to remember that won't fall to these attacks easily. One website I've seen provides passwords made up of two small words separated by a number, e.g.: hair123car, pole18dog, etc... You could generate these easily with a list of small (3-5 character) words and a number generator. They might not be very strong passwords, but they'll fare better than "password" and they're nicer for the user than "$0mEh4rDP@sSw0rD".
They key to making passwords hard to crack is to pick one outside of the 'search space' that might be used by a potential cracker. Picking the first 10 digits of pi might be a very bad choice if your login name is 'pi-lover' or 'geometry' or whatever. Wil is right. All things being equal, a long password is harder to crack that a shorter one. But if I have special knowlegde - which might be knowledge you inadvertently provide through other channels - then I have a good chance of (eventually) hacking my way in. The person who hacked Sarah Palin's Yahoo account was able to find out the answer's to her security questions by researching them online. If I have physical access to your machine, nothing will keep me out for long unless your entire harddrive is encrypted. I can walk up to 95% of computers on the planet with a live CD, boot from that & I have access to (nearly) every resource on the box, no password required.
61,233
Do *special* numbers (transcendental number, first few elements of a certain sequences and so on ...) make good passwords in terms of brute force breaking ? EDIT: Why am I asking this ? A friend of mine is composing a list of few recommendations on how people in his workplace should choose passwords. From what he told me, he used a "standard" one at first (you know, "choose your password from one to six letters and two numbers ...") and came to a conclusion that most people just ignore those recommendations and just uses passwords like "password", "date of birth", ... So he decided to *invent* a list of *more interesting* recommendations, hoping it will motivate people to at least give it some thought. And so we started thinking on what to put on the list that could prove useful.
2009/10/27
[ "https://superuser.com/questions/61233", "https://superuser.com", "https://superuser.com/users/2127/" ]
They key to making passwords hard to crack is to pick one outside of the 'search space' that might be used by a potential cracker. Picking the first 10 digits of pi might be a very bad choice if your login name is 'pi-lover' or 'geometry' or whatever. Wil is right. All things being equal, a long password is harder to crack that a shorter one. But if I have special knowlegde - which might be knowledge you inadvertently provide through other channels - then I have a good chance of (eventually) hacking my way in. The person who hacked Sarah Palin's Yahoo account was able to find out the answer's to her security questions by researching them online. If I have physical access to your machine, nothing will keep me out for long unless your entire harddrive is encrypted. I can walk up to 95% of computers on the planet with a live CD, boot from that & I have access to (nearly) every resource on the box, no password required.
One easy way to test this yourself would be to create a document in Word (or a new zipfile in Winzip) and password the file. Now download one of the many free password cracking programs and see how long it takes to crack the file. I've done a few of these lately (for legitimate work reasons, people leaving on short notice, leaving behind important files with unknown passwords). Throwing a dictionary-based cracker at a file with a simple password takes milliseconds to crack. Brute-forcing a file with a six digit numeric password (especially when you know its numeric) takes a few seconds, it really doesn't matter how mathematically obscure your number is, a brute force cracker just tries them all. Once you expand to non-dictionary words with more than six characters with a mix of character types (lower-case, upper-case, numbers, keyboard symbols, special characters) the time taken goes up exponentially.
61,233
Do *special* numbers (transcendental number, first few elements of a certain sequences and so on ...) make good passwords in terms of brute force breaking ? EDIT: Why am I asking this ? A friend of mine is composing a list of few recommendations on how people in his workplace should choose passwords. From what he told me, he used a "standard" one at first (you know, "choose your password from one to six letters and two numbers ...") and came to a conclusion that most people just ignore those recommendations and just uses passwords like "password", "date of birth", ... So he decided to *invent* a list of *more interesting* recommendations, hoping it will motivate people to at least give it some thought. And so we started thinking on what to put on the list that could prove useful.
2009/10/27
[ "https://superuser.com/questions/61233", "https://superuser.com", "https://superuser.com/users/2127/" ]
Hey, I don't think that my password is very complicated (although I've been more creative than just using "password" ;). I made good experiences with using passwords from a foreign language i.e. french or spanish.
If you really want to be secure, you don't want to use any word from the dictionary in your password; even if you replace all "a" with "@", or "s" with "5", or "e" with "3", etc. If it's a word from the dictionary it can be guessed, and most people choose a word that means something to them any which would make it easier for someone who knows them to guess. What you really want to do is pick a completely random combination of letters, numbers and symbols. This way the only way to brute force attack the password is to guess all combinations possible, instead of doing what is called a "Dictionary Attack". A "Dictionary Attack" is when the attacker guesses passwords based on going through the dictionary.
86,200
Is there any application in linux-land that can encode files into the Creative's own .cmv? I tried their C.Centrale, but it doesn't seem to work well through Wine. I need one that will work with `Zen MX`, which doesn't accept the original xvids / wmvs.
2009/12/21
[ "https://superuser.com/questions/86200", "https://superuser.com", "https://superuser.com/users/11814/" ]
I would be very interested too butnobody seems to have the answer. The CMV format is a little bit described here [link](http://wiki.multimedia.cx/index.php?title=CMV) it seems to look a lot like MJpeg format...
I am not sure if this is the same format, but this guy made a script for converting movies for creative Zen Vision:M, it might be worth a shot <http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=539398>
86,200
Is there any application in linux-land that can encode files into the Creative's own .cmv? I tried their C.Centrale, but it doesn't seem to work well through Wine. I need one that will work with `Zen MX`, which doesn't accept the original xvids / wmvs.
2009/12/21
[ "https://superuser.com/questions/86200", "https://superuser.com", "https://superuser.com/users/11814/" ]
Thanks to the description which Samy pointed out (thanks!), I created an encoder script myself. The project lives at <http://bitbucket.org/viraptor/cmv_encoder/wiki/Home>
I am not sure if this is the same format, but this guy made a script for converting movies for creative Zen Vision:M, it might be worth a shot <http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=539398>
84,974
There are badass ranks for killing enemies both at night and during the day.Time also seems to progress while fast traveling. How is the amount of time determined? How long is one in game day/night?
2012/09/19
[ "https://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/84974", "https://gaming.stackexchange.com", "https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/-1/" ]
**The day/night cycle completes every 24 minutes**. By observing the clock in Lynchwood, you'll note that, after 12:59 on the clock, it goes to 1:00, thus indicating that it's essentially a 12-hour in-game clock. You'll also see that the day/night cycle in the sky corresponds to what we typically expect as the "hours" pass. In addition, for every second that passes out of the game, the minute ticks once on the clock. This tells us: * 1 second = 1 minute in-game * 1 minute = 1 hour in-game * 24 minutes = 24 hours (1 day) in-game
A recording in the beginning of the game states that Pandora's days are over 90 hours long. With every second being a minute, that would make the cycle every 90 minutes. I have yet to test it to verify, but from general observation of gameplay, this seems reasonable.
84,974
There are badass ranks for killing enemies both at night and during the day.Time also seems to progress while fast traveling. How is the amount of time determined? How long is one in game day/night?
2012/09/19
[ "https://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/84974", "https://gaming.stackexchange.com", "https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/-1/" ]
Get in a vehicle. Drive. When the headlights turn on, it's night. Alternatively, go to the Friendship Gulag and kill some robots. When the searchlights turn on, it's night.
A recording in the beginning of the game states that Pandora's days are over 90 hours long. With every second being a minute, that would make the cycle every 90 minutes. I have yet to test it to verify, but from general observation of gameplay, this seems reasonable.
84,974
There are badass ranks for killing enemies both at night and during the day.Time also seems to progress while fast traveling. How is the amount of time determined? How long is one in game day/night?
2012/09/19
[ "https://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/84974", "https://gaming.stackexchange.com", "https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/-1/" ]
**The day/night cycle completes every 24 minutes**. By observing the clock in Lynchwood, you'll note that, after 12:59 on the clock, it goes to 1:00, thus indicating that it's essentially a 12-hour in-game clock. You'll also see that the day/night cycle in the sky corresponds to what we typically expect as the "hours" pass. In addition, for every second that passes out of the game, the minute ticks once on the clock. This tells us: * 1 second = 1 minute in-game * 1 minute = 1 hour in-game * 24 minutes = 24 hours (1 day) in-game
Shops have daily offers with countdowns starting each new day. I would suggest watching those clicks periodically to see the hours representing night and day.
84,974
There are badass ranks for killing enemies both at night and during the day.Time also seems to progress while fast traveling. How is the amount of time determined? How long is one in game day/night?
2012/09/19
[ "https://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/84974", "https://gaming.stackexchange.com", "https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/-1/" ]
**The day/night cycle completes every 24 minutes**. By observing the clock in Lynchwood, you'll note that, after 12:59 on the clock, it goes to 1:00, thus indicating that it's essentially a 12-hour in-game clock. You'll also see that the day/night cycle in the sky corresponds to what we typically expect as the "hours" pass. In addition, for every second that passes out of the game, the minute ticks once on the clock. This tells us: * 1 second = 1 minute in-game * 1 minute = 1 hour in-game * 24 minutes = 24 hours (1 day) in-game
Get in a vehicle. Drive. When the headlights turn on, it's night. Alternatively, go to the Friendship Gulag and kill some robots. When the searchlights turn on, it's night.
84,974
There are badass ranks for killing enemies both at night and during the day.Time also seems to progress while fast traveling. How is the amount of time determined? How long is one in game day/night?
2012/09/19
[ "https://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/84974", "https://gaming.stackexchange.com", "https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/-1/" ]
Get in a vehicle. Drive. When the headlights turn on, it's night. Alternatively, go to the Friendship Gulag and kill some robots. When the searchlights turn on, it's night.
Shops have daily offers with countdowns starting each new day. I would suggest watching those clicks periodically to see the hours representing night and day.
107,522
Short backstory. I joined an engineering company (around 150 employees, 35 in my department) as an intern 2 years ago, short before finishing my master's degree. My task when I joined was to aid a senior engineer, Bob, in his area. Bob had been doing that work for 7 years. Soon after I started, Bob took a long leave (1 month) and I had to deal with all the work he was doing with very little experience. This stressed me out so much, but everything worked so well that I was hired and, since then, I do his work, and he has been assigned other tasks of simillar difficulty. He has, though, kept the role of "responsible" of the work I do, even though he just checks everything is OK for 5 minutes a month. He does it as a routine, and doesn't really check, he trusts me blindly. He lost the track of the work I deal with. The whole company knows that I do the work. Do not get me wrong, Bob is a great collegue, he is not the problem of this story. He never took credit of what I do, and taught me barelly all I know. Now comes the problem, our boss: Jules. He is the boss of Bob and I. Jules is the only person who still seems to think that Bob and I do the work like 50% each, and what I hate the most, is that when an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion. I want to solve this in a way that doesn't undermine Bob by mistake. Basically I would like to say the following to Jules: "How can you not notice that I do all the work, that Bob no longer knows what is needed to do in this area, and I should be the one making decisions here". Obviously, if I said that like that, I would undermine Bob, who happens just to be in the middle of the issue, but he is not taking any credit, it's just Jules not understanding the situation. Thanks a lot. EDIT to clarify some things. * I don't think it is a duplicate because Bob is not taking credit voluntariely. Jules assumes he has it. * I finished my master's degree 5 month after getting the internship, so timeline goes like this: Internship for 1 month--> Total crisis and work overload for 1 month---> Getting hired as a bachellor engineer for 3 months --> Getting hired as a master's engineer. * Bob is not my manager, he just happens to have more experience (or at least more time doing the work), in the area I deal with. We are at equal level in heriarchy. He does not act like a manager, he passively gets the credit for my work without claiming it. * Other managers of the company who are not "my" managers acknowledge that is me who does the work. One of them, in an informal hallway chat, confessed that does not understand why Jules asks Bob to decide stuff. Second edit: First of all, I want to say thanks to everyone for your time. Most of you have made quality comments that made me think about the situation from different perspectives. I have seen that the ideal outcome of this situation would be to ask Bob to make Jules aware of the situation. I am afraid though that he could take this as an "attack" to his situation. It shouldn't be the case, but every person is different. Third edit with examples: Example 1: A year ago, I had to make a procurement proposal for some hardware (around 100.000€) and assign tasks to 4 people for 4 months. One week ago, the CEO asked Jules if this year the company would have to make upfront to a simillar amount. When Jules answered he put Bob and me (I was in CC) in the loop and literally said: "I will ask Bob, he is the one who did it last year". Example 2: A new intern was hired (I asked for him last summer) to work in my area around 2 months ago. Jules asked Bob instead of me what the intern should do. I emailed Jules with my proposals even though I wasn't asked: No answer. The intern is finally in another area.
2018/03/01
[ "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/questions/107522", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/users/83486/" ]
You have hardy got your feet under the table. Bob is effectively your manager. I am afraid that you are going to put up with it. Also you cannot be sure what Jules thinks.
This is where you are just going to have to swallow some pride, there isn't much you can do in this situation and you come out looking good. Management in companies often work like just this. I'm a technical lead at my company, and I report to the stakeholders the status of projects I haven't done any active work on, just "managed". It's not that I'm taking credit, my stakeholders just trust me to give an accurate report, and so long "Stuff's getting done", everyone is ok with the status quo. Many colleagues (unfortunately not all) give credit where credit is due. Maybe Bob is this type. A good manager takes all responsibility on themselves when something goes wrong, and gives all credit to his subordinates when there is a success to be had.
107,522
Short backstory. I joined an engineering company (around 150 employees, 35 in my department) as an intern 2 years ago, short before finishing my master's degree. My task when I joined was to aid a senior engineer, Bob, in his area. Bob had been doing that work for 7 years. Soon after I started, Bob took a long leave (1 month) and I had to deal with all the work he was doing with very little experience. This stressed me out so much, but everything worked so well that I was hired and, since then, I do his work, and he has been assigned other tasks of simillar difficulty. He has, though, kept the role of "responsible" of the work I do, even though he just checks everything is OK for 5 minutes a month. He does it as a routine, and doesn't really check, he trusts me blindly. He lost the track of the work I deal with. The whole company knows that I do the work. Do not get me wrong, Bob is a great collegue, he is not the problem of this story. He never took credit of what I do, and taught me barelly all I know. Now comes the problem, our boss: Jules. He is the boss of Bob and I. Jules is the only person who still seems to think that Bob and I do the work like 50% each, and what I hate the most, is that when an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion. I want to solve this in a way that doesn't undermine Bob by mistake. Basically I would like to say the following to Jules: "How can you not notice that I do all the work, that Bob no longer knows what is needed to do in this area, and I should be the one making decisions here". Obviously, if I said that like that, I would undermine Bob, who happens just to be in the middle of the issue, but he is not taking any credit, it's just Jules not understanding the situation. Thanks a lot. EDIT to clarify some things. * I don't think it is a duplicate because Bob is not taking credit voluntariely. Jules assumes he has it. * I finished my master's degree 5 month after getting the internship, so timeline goes like this: Internship for 1 month--> Total crisis and work overload for 1 month---> Getting hired as a bachellor engineer for 3 months --> Getting hired as a master's engineer. * Bob is not my manager, he just happens to have more experience (or at least more time doing the work), in the area I deal with. We are at equal level in heriarchy. He does not act like a manager, he passively gets the credit for my work without claiming it. * Other managers of the company who are not "my" managers acknowledge that is me who does the work. One of them, in an informal hallway chat, confessed that does not understand why Jules asks Bob to decide stuff. Second edit: First of all, I want to say thanks to everyone for your time. Most of you have made quality comments that made me think about the situation from different perspectives. I have seen that the ideal outcome of this situation would be to ask Bob to make Jules aware of the situation. I am afraid though that he could take this as an "attack" to his situation. It shouldn't be the case, but every person is different. Third edit with examples: Example 1: A year ago, I had to make a procurement proposal for some hardware (around 100.000€) and assign tasks to 4 people for 4 months. One week ago, the CEO asked Jules if this year the company would have to make upfront to a simillar amount. When Jules answered he put Bob and me (I was in CC) in the loop and literally said: "I will ask Bob, he is the one who did it last year". Example 2: A new intern was hired (I asked for him last summer) to work in my area around 2 months ago. Jules asked Bob instead of me what the intern should do. I emailed Jules with my proposals even though I wasn't asked: No answer. The intern is finally in another area.
2018/03/01
[ "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/questions/107522", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/users/83486/" ]
> > When an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion. > > > Since Bob seems a benevolent colleague, you can try talking to him about this aspect. Ask him if he would be a sort of mentor to you - so that you can take some of the work off his shoulders and free his time for his own tasks. Mention that you would like to take on more responsibility and be more involved in decisions about your work.\* Ask him to consider whether you should be involved in the dicussion when Jules comes to him about your work. Ask him to refer Jules to you or to include you in the discussion. Having an ally and a respected advocate speaking for you should be very helpful to get recognised as a competent and self-reliant employee. Make sure to mention Bob's benefits in this arrangement (more time?) and also acknowledge that by mentoring you he's doing you a favour. \*) Because the flip side of Bob making the decisions is that Bob will (or at least should) also get the blame if things go wrong. *updated to reflect question update:* > > Example 1: A year ago, I had to make a procurement proposal for some hardware (around 100.000€) and assign tasks to 4 people for 4 months. One week ago, the CEO asked Jules if this year the company would have to make upfront to a simillar amount. When Jules answered he put Bob and me (I was in CC) in the loop and literally said: "I will ask Bob, he is the one who did it last year". > > > Personally, I'd not react and wait. Bob is now saddled with a task you did last year - so it sounds likely he'll come to you and ask for help (or just the old proposal). Tell him "Sure, just tell Jules to come to me with this and I'll handle it." Try hard to avoid giving Bob the old proposal or any work on a new proposal. Instead, ask him to forward Jules to you ("It'd be much easier if Jules came directly to me"). If Jules doesn't ask you to do the proposal, don't do the proposal. Train Jules to come to you directly by delivering your best work when he comes to you and by doing nothing if he addresses his requests to Bob. Don't proactively do work assigned to Bob because you think you should do it. Let them come to you.
You have hardy got your feet under the table. Bob is effectively your manager. I am afraid that you are going to put up with it. Also you cannot be sure what Jules thinks.
107,522
Short backstory. I joined an engineering company (around 150 employees, 35 in my department) as an intern 2 years ago, short before finishing my master's degree. My task when I joined was to aid a senior engineer, Bob, in his area. Bob had been doing that work for 7 years. Soon after I started, Bob took a long leave (1 month) and I had to deal with all the work he was doing with very little experience. This stressed me out so much, but everything worked so well that I was hired and, since then, I do his work, and he has been assigned other tasks of simillar difficulty. He has, though, kept the role of "responsible" of the work I do, even though he just checks everything is OK for 5 minutes a month. He does it as a routine, and doesn't really check, he trusts me blindly. He lost the track of the work I deal with. The whole company knows that I do the work. Do not get me wrong, Bob is a great collegue, he is not the problem of this story. He never took credit of what I do, and taught me barelly all I know. Now comes the problem, our boss: Jules. He is the boss of Bob and I. Jules is the only person who still seems to think that Bob and I do the work like 50% each, and what I hate the most, is that when an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion. I want to solve this in a way that doesn't undermine Bob by mistake. Basically I would like to say the following to Jules: "How can you not notice that I do all the work, that Bob no longer knows what is needed to do in this area, and I should be the one making decisions here". Obviously, if I said that like that, I would undermine Bob, who happens just to be in the middle of the issue, but he is not taking any credit, it's just Jules not understanding the situation. Thanks a lot. EDIT to clarify some things. * I don't think it is a duplicate because Bob is not taking credit voluntariely. Jules assumes he has it. * I finished my master's degree 5 month after getting the internship, so timeline goes like this: Internship for 1 month--> Total crisis and work overload for 1 month---> Getting hired as a bachellor engineer for 3 months --> Getting hired as a master's engineer. * Bob is not my manager, he just happens to have more experience (or at least more time doing the work), in the area I deal with. We are at equal level in heriarchy. He does not act like a manager, he passively gets the credit for my work without claiming it. * Other managers of the company who are not "my" managers acknowledge that is me who does the work. One of them, in an informal hallway chat, confessed that does not understand why Jules asks Bob to decide stuff. Second edit: First of all, I want to say thanks to everyone for your time. Most of you have made quality comments that made me think about the situation from different perspectives. I have seen that the ideal outcome of this situation would be to ask Bob to make Jules aware of the situation. I am afraid though that he could take this as an "attack" to his situation. It shouldn't be the case, but every person is different. Third edit with examples: Example 1: A year ago, I had to make a procurement proposal for some hardware (around 100.000€) and assign tasks to 4 people for 4 months. One week ago, the CEO asked Jules if this year the company would have to make upfront to a simillar amount. When Jules answered he put Bob and me (I was in CC) in the loop and literally said: "I will ask Bob, he is the one who did it last year". Example 2: A new intern was hired (I asked for him last summer) to work in my area around 2 months ago. Jules asked Bob instead of me what the intern should do. I emailed Jules with my proposals even though I wasn't asked: No answer. The intern is finally in another area.
2018/03/01
[ "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/questions/107522", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/users/83486/" ]
> > "Jules is the only person who still seems to think that Bob and I do the work like 50% each, and what I hate the most, is that when an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion.". > > > Ask for a **significant raise** when Jules shows his face; why else would Jules show up: to credit another for your work, to ignore your input. Emphasize to Jules: 1. When Bob took leave you covered perfectly, 2. You work with minimal supervision and the work is accepted, 3. You are the one doing the work and both Bob and you (Jules) think it's good. You should be able to advance, to be compensated for your efforts. * That leaves Bob, for the most part, out of any finger pointing. * Informs Jules properly of the importance of his input (from your perspective). This forces Jules hand, to put up or distribute credit fairly - or confess he's blind to how it works. Understand that Bob is taking the *heat* for how long you take (or are you speedy?) and if/when you screw up Bob's gonna hear about it. Then you hear about it from Bob, and not Jules - **or** doesn't it work that way ... Make sure you're getting ahead and not getting stuck there for years until you're Bob, or Jules ... If you've been ignored by Jules for two years **you** should have brought it up 18 months ago, and not let Jules think differently; not clearing that up and letting it fester has what has engrained Jules' false beliefs. It would have been **good** of **Bob** to have been clearer that he can't take the credit and that 99% of the work in question is a result of **your** work; and Bob's 5 minute monthly look-see. Initially your question made it seem like you had been kindly taken on as an intern whom had not yet finished school and an *opportunity* (red flag word) came up where they were able to hire you beyond your abilities and credentials. Understand that many companies need to pay **new** hires **more** than current employees and trying to beat people down is a common practice to keep wages low - there's no reason you couldn't be making within 5% of what Bob earns (either way) whether it's more or less depends upon what other businesses in the area pay vs. demand vs. supply. --- If you add a comment about: "are you paid generously or barely enough" then I'll update my answer. In anticipation of what is to come: If you're underpaid you need to be clear to Jules of exactly what you do. If you are paid handsomely then I'd not worry about it so much as long as annual reviews bring in a COL allowance plus a bit and performance bonuses are not too small. If you are ignored and forgotten that affects your future, you'll certainly be on the chopping block if there's less work. If you don't know how much Bob toils in obscurity you shouldn't assume he doesn't have his own 'important' work to do. Maybe it's Jules entire lack of understanding of "all things technical" that causes him to get Bob to babysit and keep him in the loop (without tipping his hand to you); the retort that "but Bob would know" is not one of the finer points in Jules' mind - a lot of people behave that way. Getting credit is great, being under the spotlight if there's a problem either with your work or with the supply of work is no good - don't let Bob's silence to save his job affect how useful you are perceived to be. Being paid a lot and not getting full credit can be OK, especially if it's enough to compensate being "the first to go". Returning to school for another year is still an option, it's possible that the company would support (and pay either partially or upon your return). You can use that to assess *secretly* Jules' opinion of you without saying "credit me or I'll polish up my resume".
This is where you are just going to have to swallow some pride, there isn't much you can do in this situation and you come out looking good. Management in companies often work like just this. I'm a technical lead at my company, and I report to the stakeholders the status of projects I haven't done any active work on, just "managed". It's not that I'm taking credit, my stakeholders just trust me to give an accurate report, and so long "Stuff's getting done", everyone is ok with the status quo. Many colleagues (unfortunately not all) give credit where credit is due. Maybe Bob is this type. A good manager takes all responsibility on themselves when something goes wrong, and gives all credit to his subordinates when there is a success to be had.
107,522
Short backstory. I joined an engineering company (around 150 employees, 35 in my department) as an intern 2 years ago, short before finishing my master's degree. My task when I joined was to aid a senior engineer, Bob, in his area. Bob had been doing that work for 7 years. Soon after I started, Bob took a long leave (1 month) and I had to deal with all the work he was doing with very little experience. This stressed me out so much, but everything worked so well that I was hired and, since then, I do his work, and he has been assigned other tasks of simillar difficulty. He has, though, kept the role of "responsible" of the work I do, even though he just checks everything is OK for 5 minutes a month. He does it as a routine, and doesn't really check, he trusts me blindly. He lost the track of the work I deal with. The whole company knows that I do the work. Do not get me wrong, Bob is a great collegue, he is not the problem of this story. He never took credit of what I do, and taught me barelly all I know. Now comes the problem, our boss: Jules. He is the boss of Bob and I. Jules is the only person who still seems to think that Bob and I do the work like 50% each, and what I hate the most, is that when an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion. I want to solve this in a way that doesn't undermine Bob by mistake. Basically I would like to say the following to Jules: "How can you not notice that I do all the work, that Bob no longer knows what is needed to do in this area, and I should be the one making decisions here". Obviously, if I said that like that, I would undermine Bob, who happens just to be in the middle of the issue, but he is not taking any credit, it's just Jules not understanding the situation. Thanks a lot. EDIT to clarify some things. * I don't think it is a duplicate because Bob is not taking credit voluntariely. Jules assumes he has it. * I finished my master's degree 5 month after getting the internship, so timeline goes like this: Internship for 1 month--> Total crisis and work overload for 1 month---> Getting hired as a bachellor engineer for 3 months --> Getting hired as a master's engineer. * Bob is not my manager, he just happens to have more experience (or at least more time doing the work), in the area I deal with. We are at equal level in heriarchy. He does not act like a manager, he passively gets the credit for my work without claiming it. * Other managers of the company who are not "my" managers acknowledge that is me who does the work. One of them, in an informal hallway chat, confessed that does not understand why Jules asks Bob to decide stuff. Second edit: First of all, I want to say thanks to everyone for your time. Most of you have made quality comments that made me think about the situation from different perspectives. I have seen that the ideal outcome of this situation would be to ask Bob to make Jules aware of the situation. I am afraid though that he could take this as an "attack" to his situation. It shouldn't be the case, but every person is different. Third edit with examples: Example 1: A year ago, I had to make a procurement proposal for some hardware (around 100.000€) and assign tasks to 4 people for 4 months. One week ago, the CEO asked Jules if this year the company would have to make upfront to a simillar amount. When Jules answered he put Bob and me (I was in CC) in the loop and literally said: "I will ask Bob, he is the one who did it last year". Example 2: A new intern was hired (I asked for him last summer) to work in my area around 2 months ago. Jules asked Bob instead of me what the intern should do. I emailed Jules with my proposals even though I wasn't asked: No answer. The intern is finally in another area.
2018/03/01
[ "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/questions/107522", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/users/83486/" ]
> > When an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion. > > > Since Bob seems a benevolent colleague, you can try talking to him about this aspect. Ask him if he would be a sort of mentor to you - so that you can take some of the work off his shoulders and free his time for his own tasks. Mention that you would like to take on more responsibility and be more involved in decisions about your work.\* Ask him to consider whether you should be involved in the dicussion when Jules comes to him about your work. Ask him to refer Jules to you or to include you in the discussion. Having an ally and a respected advocate speaking for you should be very helpful to get recognised as a competent and self-reliant employee. Make sure to mention Bob's benefits in this arrangement (more time?) and also acknowledge that by mentoring you he's doing you a favour. \*) Because the flip side of Bob making the decisions is that Bob will (or at least should) also get the blame if things go wrong. *updated to reflect question update:* > > Example 1: A year ago, I had to make a procurement proposal for some hardware (around 100.000€) and assign tasks to 4 people for 4 months. One week ago, the CEO asked Jules if this year the company would have to make upfront to a simillar amount. When Jules answered he put Bob and me (I was in CC) in the loop and literally said: "I will ask Bob, he is the one who did it last year". > > > Personally, I'd not react and wait. Bob is now saddled with a task you did last year - so it sounds likely he'll come to you and ask for help (or just the old proposal). Tell him "Sure, just tell Jules to come to me with this and I'll handle it." Try hard to avoid giving Bob the old proposal or any work on a new proposal. Instead, ask him to forward Jules to you ("It'd be much easier if Jules came directly to me"). If Jules doesn't ask you to do the proposal, don't do the proposal. Train Jules to come to you directly by delivering your best work when he comes to you and by doing nothing if he addresses his requests to Bob. Don't proactively do work assigned to Bob because you think you should do it. Let them come to you.
This is where you are just going to have to swallow some pride, there isn't much you can do in this situation and you come out looking good. Management in companies often work like just this. I'm a technical lead at my company, and I report to the stakeholders the status of projects I haven't done any active work on, just "managed". It's not that I'm taking credit, my stakeholders just trust me to give an accurate report, and so long "Stuff's getting done", everyone is ok with the status quo. Many colleagues (unfortunately not all) give credit where credit is due. Maybe Bob is this type. A good manager takes all responsibility on themselves when something goes wrong, and gives all credit to his subordinates when there is a success to be had.
107,522
Short backstory. I joined an engineering company (around 150 employees, 35 in my department) as an intern 2 years ago, short before finishing my master's degree. My task when I joined was to aid a senior engineer, Bob, in his area. Bob had been doing that work for 7 years. Soon after I started, Bob took a long leave (1 month) and I had to deal with all the work he was doing with very little experience. This stressed me out so much, but everything worked so well that I was hired and, since then, I do his work, and he has been assigned other tasks of simillar difficulty. He has, though, kept the role of "responsible" of the work I do, even though he just checks everything is OK for 5 minutes a month. He does it as a routine, and doesn't really check, he trusts me blindly. He lost the track of the work I deal with. The whole company knows that I do the work. Do not get me wrong, Bob is a great collegue, he is not the problem of this story. He never took credit of what I do, and taught me barelly all I know. Now comes the problem, our boss: Jules. He is the boss of Bob and I. Jules is the only person who still seems to think that Bob and I do the work like 50% each, and what I hate the most, is that when an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion. I want to solve this in a way that doesn't undermine Bob by mistake. Basically I would like to say the following to Jules: "How can you not notice that I do all the work, that Bob no longer knows what is needed to do in this area, and I should be the one making decisions here". Obviously, if I said that like that, I would undermine Bob, who happens just to be in the middle of the issue, but he is not taking any credit, it's just Jules not understanding the situation. Thanks a lot. EDIT to clarify some things. * I don't think it is a duplicate because Bob is not taking credit voluntariely. Jules assumes he has it. * I finished my master's degree 5 month after getting the internship, so timeline goes like this: Internship for 1 month--> Total crisis and work overload for 1 month---> Getting hired as a bachellor engineer for 3 months --> Getting hired as a master's engineer. * Bob is not my manager, he just happens to have more experience (or at least more time doing the work), in the area I deal with. We are at equal level in heriarchy. He does not act like a manager, he passively gets the credit for my work without claiming it. * Other managers of the company who are not "my" managers acknowledge that is me who does the work. One of them, in an informal hallway chat, confessed that does not understand why Jules asks Bob to decide stuff. Second edit: First of all, I want to say thanks to everyone for your time. Most of you have made quality comments that made me think about the situation from different perspectives. I have seen that the ideal outcome of this situation would be to ask Bob to make Jules aware of the situation. I am afraid though that he could take this as an "attack" to his situation. It shouldn't be the case, but every person is different. Third edit with examples: Example 1: A year ago, I had to make a procurement proposal for some hardware (around 100.000€) and assign tasks to 4 people for 4 months. One week ago, the CEO asked Jules if this year the company would have to make upfront to a simillar amount. When Jules answered he put Bob and me (I was in CC) in the loop and literally said: "I will ask Bob, he is the one who did it last year". Example 2: A new intern was hired (I asked for him last summer) to work in my area around 2 months ago. Jules asked Bob instead of me what the intern should do. I emailed Jules with my proposals even though I wasn't asked: No answer. The intern is finally in another area.
2018/03/01
[ "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/questions/107522", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/users/83486/" ]
Bob is effectively your manager, and thus your direct superior. Since you get along well with Bob, take this up with him. If he wants to resolve this, he can easily do so. If you do what you suggest, you're attacking and undermining Bob: > > I would like to say the following to Jules: "How can you not notice that I do all the work, that Bob no longer knows what is needed to do in this area, and I should be the one making decisions here". > > > But if Bob says this, things are completely different: > > "How can you not notice that Anonworriedworker does all the work, that I no longer know what is needed to do in this area, and Anonworriedworker should be the one making decisions here". > > > Of course Bob, being experienced, will chose better words than that, but to the same effect. If he doesn't want to do this, then at least you know that he indeed does knowingly and willingly take your credit.
This is where you are just going to have to swallow some pride, there isn't much you can do in this situation and you come out looking good. Management in companies often work like just this. I'm a technical lead at my company, and I report to the stakeholders the status of projects I haven't done any active work on, just "managed". It's not that I'm taking credit, my stakeholders just trust me to give an accurate report, and so long "Stuff's getting done", everyone is ok with the status quo. Many colleagues (unfortunately not all) give credit where credit is due. Maybe Bob is this type. A good manager takes all responsibility on themselves when something goes wrong, and gives all credit to his subordinates when there is a success to be had.
107,522
Short backstory. I joined an engineering company (around 150 employees, 35 in my department) as an intern 2 years ago, short before finishing my master's degree. My task when I joined was to aid a senior engineer, Bob, in his area. Bob had been doing that work for 7 years. Soon after I started, Bob took a long leave (1 month) and I had to deal with all the work he was doing with very little experience. This stressed me out so much, but everything worked so well that I was hired and, since then, I do his work, and he has been assigned other tasks of simillar difficulty. He has, though, kept the role of "responsible" of the work I do, even though he just checks everything is OK for 5 minutes a month. He does it as a routine, and doesn't really check, he trusts me blindly. He lost the track of the work I deal with. The whole company knows that I do the work. Do not get me wrong, Bob is a great collegue, he is not the problem of this story. He never took credit of what I do, and taught me barelly all I know. Now comes the problem, our boss: Jules. He is the boss of Bob and I. Jules is the only person who still seems to think that Bob and I do the work like 50% each, and what I hate the most, is that when an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion. I want to solve this in a way that doesn't undermine Bob by mistake. Basically I would like to say the following to Jules: "How can you not notice that I do all the work, that Bob no longer knows what is needed to do in this area, and I should be the one making decisions here". Obviously, if I said that like that, I would undermine Bob, who happens just to be in the middle of the issue, but he is not taking any credit, it's just Jules not understanding the situation. Thanks a lot. EDIT to clarify some things. * I don't think it is a duplicate because Bob is not taking credit voluntariely. Jules assumes he has it. * I finished my master's degree 5 month after getting the internship, so timeline goes like this: Internship for 1 month--> Total crisis and work overload for 1 month---> Getting hired as a bachellor engineer for 3 months --> Getting hired as a master's engineer. * Bob is not my manager, he just happens to have more experience (or at least more time doing the work), in the area I deal with. We are at equal level in heriarchy. He does not act like a manager, he passively gets the credit for my work without claiming it. * Other managers of the company who are not "my" managers acknowledge that is me who does the work. One of them, in an informal hallway chat, confessed that does not understand why Jules asks Bob to decide stuff. Second edit: First of all, I want to say thanks to everyone for your time. Most of you have made quality comments that made me think about the situation from different perspectives. I have seen that the ideal outcome of this situation would be to ask Bob to make Jules aware of the situation. I am afraid though that he could take this as an "attack" to his situation. It shouldn't be the case, but every person is different. Third edit with examples: Example 1: A year ago, I had to make a procurement proposal for some hardware (around 100.000€) and assign tasks to 4 people for 4 months. One week ago, the CEO asked Jules if this year the company would have to make upfront to a simillar amount. When Jules answered he put Bob and me (I was in CC) in the loop and literally said: "I will ask Bob, he is the one who did it last year". Example 2: A new intern was hired (I asked for him last summer) to work in my area around 2 months ago. Jules asked Bob instead of me what the intern should do. I emailed Jules with my proposals even though I wasn't asked: No answer. The intern is finally in another area.
2018/03/01
[ "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/questions/107522", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/users/83486/" ]
> > When an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion. > > > Since Bob seems a benevolent colleague, you can try talking to him about this aspect. Ask him if he would be a sort of mentor to you - so that you can take some of the work off his shoulders and free his time for his own tasks. Mention that you would like to take on more responsibility and be more involved in decisions about your work.\* Ask him to consider whether you should be involved in the dicussion when Jules comes to him about your work. Ask him to refer Jules to you or to include you in the discussion. Having an ally and a respected advocate speaking for you should be very helpful to get recognised as a competent and self-reliant employee. Make sure to mention Bob's benefits in this arrangement (more time?) and also acknowledge that by mentoring you he's doing you a favour. \*) Because the flip side of Bob making the decisions is that Bob will (or at least should) also get the blame if things go wrong. *updated to reflect question update:* > > Example 1: A year ago, I had to make a procurement proposal for some hardware (around 100.000€) and assign tasks to 4 people for 4 months. One week ago, the CEO asked Jules if this year the company would have to make upfront to a simillar amount. When Jules answered he put Bob and me (I was in CC) in the loop and literally said: "I will ask Bob, he is the one who did it last year". > > > Personally, I'd not react and wait. Bob is now saddled with a task you did last year - so it sounds likely he'll come to you and ask for help (or just the old proposal). Tell him "Sure, just tell Jules to come to me with this and I'll handle it." Try hard to avoid giving Bob the old proposal or any work on a new proposal. Instead, ask him to forward Jules to you ("It'd be much easier if Jules came directly to me"). If Jules doesn't ask you to do the proposal, don't do the proposal. Train Jules to come to you directly by delivering your best work when he comes to you and by doing nothing if he addresses his requests to Bob. Don't proactively do work assigned to Bob because you think you should do it. Let them come to you.
> > "Jules is the only person who still seems to think that Bob and I do the work like 50% each, and what I hate the most, is that when an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion.". > > > Ask for a **significant raise** when Jules shows his face; why else would Jules show up: to credit another for your work, to ignore your input. Emphasize to Jules: 1. When Bob took leave you covered perfectly, 2. You work with minimal supervision and the work is accepted, 3. You are the one doing the work and both Bob and you (Jules) think it's good. You should be able to advance, to be compensated for your efforts. * That leaves Bob, for the most part, out of any finger pointing. * Informs Jules properly of the importance of his input (from your perspective). This forces Jules hand, to put up or distribute credit fairly - or confess he's blind to how it works. Understand that Bob is taking the *heat* for how long you take (or are you speedy?) and if/when you screw up Bob's gonna hear about it. Then you hear about it from Bob, and not Jules - **or** doesn't it work that way ... Make sure you're getting ahead and not getting stuck there for years until you're Bob, or Jules ... If you've been ignored by Jules for two years **you** should have brought it up 18 months ago, and not let Jules think differently; not clearing that up and letting it fester has what has engrained Jules' false beliefs. It would have been **good** of **Bob** to have been clearer that he can't take the credit and that 99% of the work in question is a result of **your** work; and Bob's 5 minute monthly look-see. Initially your question made it seem like you had been kindly taken on as an intern whom had not yet finished school and an *opportunity* (red flag word) came up where they were able to hire you beyond your abilities and credentials. Understand that many companies need to pay **new** hires **more** than current employees and trying to beat people down is a common practice to keep wages low - there's no reason you couldn't be making within 5% of what Bob earns (either way) whether it's more or less depends upon what other businesses in the area pay vs. demand vs. supply. --- If you add a comment about: "are you paid generously or barely enough" then I'll update my answer. In anticipation of what is to come: If you're underpaid you need to be clear to Jules of exactly what you do. If you are paid handsomely then I'd not worry about it so much as long as annual reviews bring in a COL allowance plus a bit and performance bonuses are not too small. If you are ignored and forgotten that affects your future, you'll certainly be on the chopping block if there's less work. If you don't know how much Bob toils in obscurity you shouldn't assume he doesn't have his own 'important' work to do. Maybe it's Jules entire lack of understanding of "all things technical" that causes him to get Bob to babysit and keep him in the loop (without tipping his hand to you); the retort that "but Bob would know" is not one of the finer points in Jules' mind - a lot of people behave that way. Getting credit is great, being under the spotlight if there's a problem either with your work or with the supply of work is no good - don't let Bob's silence to save his job affect how useful you are perceived to be. Being paid a lot and not getting full credit can be OK, especially if it's enough to compensate being "the first to go". Returning to school for another year is still an option, it's possible that the company would support (and pay either partially or upon your return). You can use that to assess *secretly* Jules' opinion of you without saying "credit me or I'll polish up my resume".
107,522
Short backstory. I joined an engineering company (around 150 employees, 35 in my department) as an intern 2 years ago, short before finishing my master's degree. My task when I joined was to aid a senior engineer, Bob, in his area. Bob had been doing that work for 7 years. Soon after I started, Bob took a long leave (1 month) and I had to deal with all the work he was doing with very little experience. This stressed me out so much, but everything worked so well that I was hired and, since then, I do his work, and he has been assigned other tasks of simillar difficulty. He has, though, kept the role of "responsible" of the work I do, even though he just checks everything is OK for 5 minutes a month. He does it as a routine, and doesn't really check, he trusts me blindly. He lost the track of the work I deal with. The whole company knows that I do the work. Do not get me wrong, Bob is a great collegue, he is not the problem of this story. He never took credit of what I do, and taught me barelly all I know. Now comes the problem, our boss: Jules. He is the boss of Bob and I. Jules is the only person who still seems to think that Bob and I do the work like 50% each, and what I hate the most, is that when an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion. I want to solve this in a way that doesn't undermine Bob by mistake. Basically I would like to say the following to Jules: "How can you not notice that I do all the work, that Bob no longer knows what is needed to do in this area, and I should be the one making decisions here". Obviously, if I said that like that, I would undermine Bob, who happens just to be in the middle of the issue, but he is not taking any credit, it's just Jules not understanding the situation. Thanks a lot. EDIT to clarify some things. * I don't think it is a duplicate because Bob is not taking credit voluntariely. Jules assumes he has it. * I finished my master's degree 5 month after getting the internship, so timeline goes like this: Internship for 1 month--> Total crisis and work overload for 1 month---> Getting hired as a bachellor engineer for 3 months --> Getting hired as a master's engineer. * Bob is not my manager, he just happens to have more experience (or at least more time doing the work), in the area I deal with. We are at equal level in heriarchy. He does not act like a manager, he passively gets the credit for my work without claiming it. * Other managers of the company who are not "my" managers acknowledge that is me who does the work. One of them, in an informal hallway chat, confessed that does not understand why Jules asks Bob to decide stuff. Second edit: First of all, I want to say thanks to everyone for your time. Most of you have made quality comments that made me think about the situation from different perspectives. I have seen that the ideal outcome of this situation would be to ask Bob to make Jules aware of the situation. I am afraid though that he could take this as an "attack" to his situation. It shouldn't be the case, but every person is different. Third edit with examples: Example 1: A year ago, I had to make a procurement proposal for some hardware (around 100.000€) and assign tasks to 4 people for 4 months. One week ago, the CEO asked Jules if this year the company would have to make upfront to a simillar amount. When Jules answered he put Bob and me (I was in CC) in the loop and literally said: "I will ask Bob, he is the one who did it last year". Example 2: A new intern was hired (I asked for him last summer) to work in my area around 2 months ago. Jules asked Bob instead of me what the intern should do. I emailed Jules with my proposals even though I wasn't asked: No answer. The intern is finally in another area.
2018/03/01
[ "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/questions/107522", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/users/83486/" ]
> > When an important decision about my work comes around, he asks Bob to decide, not caring for my opinion. > > > Since Bob seems a benevolent colleague, you can try talking to him about this aspect. Ask him if he would be a sort of mentor to you - so that you can take some of the work off his shoulders and free his time for his own tasks. Mention that you would like to take on more responsibility and be more involved in decisions about your work.\* Ask him to consider whether you should be involved in the dicussion when Jules comes to him about your work. Ask him to refer Jules to you or to include you in the discussion. Having an ally and a respected advocate speaking for you should be very helpful to get recognised as a competent and self-reliant employee. Make sure to mention Bob's benefits in this arrangement (more time?) and also acknowledge that by mentoring you he's doing you a favour. \*) Because the flip side of Bob making the decisions is that Bob will (or at least should) also get the blame if things go wrong. *updated to reflect question update:* > > Example 1: A year ago, I had to make a procurement proposal for some hardware (around 100.000€) and assign tasks to 4 people for 4 months. One week ago, the CEO asked Jules if this year the company would have to make upfront to a simillar amount. When Jules answered he put Bob and me (I was in CC) in the loop and literally said: "I will ask Bob, he is the one who did it last year". > > > Personally, I'd not react and wait. Bob is now saddled with a task you did last year - so it sounds likely he'll come to you and ask for help (or just the old proposal). Tell him "Sure, just tell Jules to come to me with this and I'll handle it." Try hard to avoid giving Bob the old proposal or any work on a new proposal. Instead, ask him to forward Jules to you ("It'd be much easier if Jules came directly to me"). If Jules doesn't ask you to do the proposal, don't do the proposal. Train Jules to come to you directly by delivering your best work when he comes to you and by doing nothing if he addresses his requests to Bob. Don't proactively do work assigned to Bob because you think you should do it. Let them come to you.
Bob is effectively your manager, and thus your direct superior. Since you get along well with Bob, take this up with him. If he wants to resolve this, he can easily do so. If you do what you suggest, you're attacking and undermining Bob: > > I would like to say the following to Jules: "How can you not notice that I do all the work, that Bob no longer knows what is needed to do in this area, and I should be the one making decisions here". > > > But if Bob says this, things are completely different: > > "How can you not notice that Anonworriedworker does all the work, that I no longer know what is needed to do in this area, and Anonworriedworker should be the one making decisions here". > > > Of course Bob, being experienced, will chose better words than that, but to the same effect. If he doesn't want to do this, then at least you know that he indeed does knowingly and willingly take your credit.
120,854
Recently it happened to me twice that I had a paper which was under review for more than one year (first round) and that all inquiries about the status of the paper went unanswered by the handling editors. Both cases were reputable mathematics journals but not among the very top journals (not the Annals or similar). Is it reasonable to withdraw the submitted paper in this situation and to submit it to another journal? What is a reasonable waiting time in such a situation, i.e. very long time under review (more than a year) together with an editor who does not respond at all to inquiries on the status?
2018/11/30
[ "https://academia.stackexchange.com/questions/120854", "https://academia.stackexchange.com", "https://academia.stackexchange.com/users/45543/" ]
There can be multiple reasons for lengthy review process. 1) Your work is very novel and its hard to find a reviewer. 2) You submitted your article to a journal who's scope is not fully relevant to your research area. According to my experience this is one of the major reason. 3) The ignorance of handling editor. First make your own assessment if your work is very novel or if you have submitted to a journal who's scope is not fully relevant to your research area in both cases you may expect a much longer review process. if its not the case 1) and 2), then Check the average time of first decision for recently published article, and contact handling editor after passage of average expected time. If Editor don't reply for another extra 25%~30% of average time, then write a withdraw letter and mention the unexpected delay as a reason for withdrawal to EiC.
**Withdraw the paper(s) and send to a better journal.** Its is clear from your description "(...)under review for more than one year (first round) and (...) inquiries about the status of the paper went unanswered(...)" that you're *not* dealing with a reputable journal. Reassess your evaluation criteria and **aim higher**. Good luck!
82,003
Sally smiles at her older brother and says, "Happy 30th birthday!" He shakes his head and replies, "I'm not 30 yet, but you are!" How is this possible?
2019/04/20
[ "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/82003", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/9802/" ]
They are > > twins, and the brother was born earlier than Sally on the same day. > > > > They are located on different time zones, either talking via video call or simply standing on different sides of a border between two time zones. > > > > It is already their birthday on Sally's time zone, but not yet on the brother's time zone. > > >
Try mine > > Sally and her older brother are actually twins, their mother were in a cruise while labouring those two, the older brother came out first while in the 1st of March side of the Pacific Ocean, while she was born in the 28th February side of the ocean. I found the answer [here](https://www.mycoted.com/The_Elder_Twin). > > >
82,003
Sally smiles at her older brother and says, "Happy 30th birthday!" He shakes his head and replies, "I'm not 30 yet, but you are!" How is this possible?
2019/04/20
[ "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/82003", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/9802/" ]
Try mine > > Sally and her older brother are actually twins, their mother were in a cruise while labouring those two, the older brother came out first while in the 1st of March side of the Pacific Ocean, while she was born in the 28th February side of the ocean. I found the answer [here](https://www.mycoted.com/The_Elder_Twin). > > >
the answer is: Sally has two brothers > > a younger brother who is 26 and an older brother who is 28. > Sally says: “Hi, have you met my two kid brothers? Let me introduce my younger brother Adam and my older brother Brian”. She smiles at her older brother. > > >
82,003
Sally smiles at her older brother and says, "Happy 30th birthday!" He shakes his head and replies, "I'm not 30 yet, but you are!" How is this possible?
2019/04/20
[ "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/82003", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/9802/" ]
Maybe > > he was born on Feb 29th, Leap Day and so has had about 1/4 the number of birthday's you would expect he's had. > > > Or if we want to be more legal... > > They are twins born on Feb 29th (he was born first) and this is a non-leap year and Feb 28th. He is somewhere that considers March 1 as his official birthday (UK for example) and she is somewhere that considers Feb 28th as her official birthday (New Zealand or Taiwan, for example) > > >
the answer is: Sally has two brothers > > a younger brother who is 26 and an older brother who is 28. > Sally says: “Hi, have you met my two kid brothers? Let me introduce my younger brother Adam and my older brother Brian”. She smiles at her older brother. > > >
82,003
Sally smiles at her older brother and says, "Happy 30th birthday!" He shakes his head and replies, "I'm not 30 yet, but you are!" How is this possible?
2019/04/20
[ "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/82003", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/9802/" ]
Sally's older brother has evidently been travelling in [two distinct inertial reference frames](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twin_paradox).
Try mine > > Sally and her older brother are actually twins, their mother were in a cruise while labouring those two, the older brother came out first while in the 1st of March side of the Pacific Ocean, while she was born in the 28th February side of the ocean. I found the answer [here](https://www.mycoted.com/The_Elder_Twin). > > >
82,003
Sally smiles at her older brother and says, "Happy 30th birthday!" He shakes his head and replies, "I'm not 30 yet, but you are!" How is this possible?
2019/04/20
[ "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/82003", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/9802/" ]
Sally's older brother has evidently been travelling in [two distinct inertial reference frames](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twin_paradox).
the answer is: Sally has two brothers > > a younger brother who is 26 and an older brother who is 28. > Sally says: “Hi, have you met my two kid brothers? Let me introduce my younger brother Adam and my older brother Brian”. She smiles at her older brother. > > >
82,003
Sally smiles at her older brother and says, "Happy 30th birthday!" He shakes his head and replies, "I'm not 30 yet, but you are!" How is this possible?
2019/04/20
[ "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/82003", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/9802/" ]
Sally's older brother has evidently been travelling in [two distinct inertial reference frames](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twin_paradox).
Two different answers: 1) > > They are [Korean](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/East_Asian_age_reckoning), and he got a European or USA citizenship and is making a point by reminding her the age reckoning is different (though strictly speaking, she would *not* be speaking of 30th birthday, but of "being 30 year old") > > > 2) > > Very easy. Why wouldn't this be possible? People often say things that are not true. E.g. making simple mistakes when intoxicated after a birthday celebration, or just unsuccessfully trying to be funny or just pointing out he is feeling younger... > > >
82,003
Sally smiles at her older brother and says, "Happy 30th birthday!" He shakes his head and replies, "I'm not 30 yet, but you are!" How is this possible?
2019/04/20
[ "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/82003", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/9802/" ]
They are > > twins, and the brother was born earlier than Sally on the same day. > > > > They are located on different time zones, either talking via video call or simply standing on different sides of a border between two time zones. > > > > It is already their birthday on Sally's time zone, but not yet on the brother's time zone. > > >
Sally's older brother has evidently been travelling in [two distinct inertial reference frames](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twin_paradox).
82,003
Sally smiles at her older brother and says, "Happy 30th birthday!" He shakes his head and replies, "I'm not 30 yet, but you are!" How is this possible?
2019/04/20
[ "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/82003", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/9802/" ]
Two different answers: 1) > > They are [Korean](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/East_Asian_age_reckoning), and he got a European or USA citizenship and is making a point by reminding her the age reckoning is different (though strictly speaking, she would *not* be speaking of 30th birthday, but of "being 30 year old") > > > 2) > > Very easy. Why wouldn't this be possible? People often say things that are not true. E.g. making simple mistakes when intoxicated after a birthday celebration, or just unsuccessfully trying to be funny or just pointing out he is feeling younger... > > >
the answer is: Sally has two brothers > > a younger brother who is 26 and an older brother who is 28. > Sally says: “Hi, have you met my two kid brothers? Let me introduce my younger brother Adam and my older brother Brian”. She smiles at her older brother. > > >
82,003
Sally smiles at her older brother and says, "Happy 30th birthday!" He shakes his head and replies, "I'm not 30 yet, but you are!" How is this possible?
2019/04/20
[ "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/82003", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/9802/" ]
They are > > twins, and the brother was born earlier than Sally on the same day. > > > > They are located on different time zones, either talking via video call or simply standing on different sides of a border between two time zones. > > > > It is already their birthday on Sally's time zone, but not yet on the brother's time zone. > > >
Maybe > > he was born on Feb 29th, Leap Day and so has had about 1/4 the number of birthday's you would expect he's had. > > > Or if we want to be more legal... > > They are twins born on Feb 29th (he was born first) and this is a non-leap year and Feb 28th. He is somewhere that considers March 1 as his official birthday (UK for example) and she is somewhere that considers Feb 28th as her official birthday (New Zealand or Taiwan, for example) > > >
82,003
Sally smiles at her older brother and says, "Happy 30th birthday!" He shakes his head and replies, "I'm not 30 yet, but you are!" How is this possible?
2019/04/20
[ "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/82003", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com", "https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/9802/" ]
Maybe > > he was born on Feb 29th, Leap Day and so has had about 1/4 the number of birthday's you would expect he's had. > > > Or if we want to be more legal... > > They are twins born on Feb 29th (he was born first) and this is a non-leap year and Feb 28th. He is somewhere that considers March 1 as his official birthday (UK for example) and she is somewhere that considers Feb 28th as her official birthday (New Zealand or Taiwan, for example) > > >
Try mine > > Sally and her older brother are actually twins, their mother were in a cruise while labouring those two, the older brother came out first while in the 1st of March side of the Pacific Ocean, while she was born in the 28th February side of the ocean. I found the answer [here](https://www.mycoted.com/The_Elder_Twin). > > >
6,386,127
I have to create a utf8 file (say utf8\_test.txt) in linux (Ubuntu), in c. I tried fopen(), but it create hte file depending on the Locale - as the locale was en\_IN, it created in Ascii I guess. Is there any interface or function by which I can specify the format of the file to open or I need to add some byte in the beginning of the file, so that the OS understands that it is a UTF8 file? Please give your valuable inputs. Thank you.
2011/06/17
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/6386127", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/803258/" ]
That error message is always due to a security issue but that doesn't tell you "why" there is a security issue. Can you take a look at the event log for more details- not sure what else might be in there but it might be a good starting point. I had this issue a long time ago when working remotely and it was a trial and error thing but in my case clearing cache then removing the TFS Team Project and re-adding it fixed the issue. You can try that. I see you did clear cache but I am not sure from reading this if you removed and re-added. If settings are cached and you dont do that I doubt you will see a change. Another more aggressive solution would be to uninstall and reinstall Team Explorer. Also, make sure your up to date on SPs. Permissions could have been messed up somehow with TFS installation and this could potentially resolve the issue. Anyway, I know this isn't a cut and dry answer but I hope it helps. I just spent the last three days upgrading all our company Team Projects from 2008 to 2010 so I feel your pain :)
I've got this error once my TFS database server ran out of diskspace.
6,386,127
I have to create a utf8 file (say utf8\_test.txt) in linux (Ubuntu), in c. I tried fopen(), but it create hte file depending on the Locale - as the locale was en\_IN, it created in Ascii I guess. Is there any interface or function by which I can specify the format of the file to open or I need to add some byte in the beginning of the file, so that the OS understands that it is a UTF8 file? Please give your valuable inputs. Thank you.
2011/06/17
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/6386127", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/803258/" ]
That error message is always due to a security issue but that doesn't tell you "why" there is a security issue. Can you take a look at the event log for more details- not sure what else might be in there but it might be a good starting point. I had this issue a long time ago when working remotely and it was a trial and error thing but in my case clearing cache then removing the TFS Team Project and re-adding it fixed the issue. You can try that. I see you did clear cache but I am not sure from reading this if you removed and re-added. If settings are cached and you dont do that I doubt you will see a change. Another more aggressive solution would be to uninstall and reinstall Team Explorer. Also, make sure your up to date on SPs. Permissions could have been messed up somehow with TFS installation and this could potentially resolve the issue. Anyway, I know this isn't a cut and dry answer but I hope it helps. I just spent the last three days upgrading all our company Team Projects from 2008 to 2010 so I feel your pain :)
I encountered same error. I found this which looked like a viable solution. : <http://social.msdn.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/tfsversioncontrol/thread/f681a2d6-eca9-4488-96a3-ed979a545a9b> I ended up just turning my proxy settings of in IE and it started working instantly.
6,386,127
I have to create a utf8 file (say utf8\_test.txt) in linux (Ubuntu), in c. I tried fopen(), but it create hte file depending on the Locale - as the locale was en\_IN, it created in Ascii I guess. Is there any interface or function by which I can specify the format of the file to open or I need to add some byte in the beginning of the file, so that the OS understands that it is a UTF8 file? Please give your valuable inputs. Thank you.
2011/06/17
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/6386127", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/803258/" ]
That error message is always due to a security issue but that doesn't tell you "why" there is a security issue. Can you take a look at the event log for more details- not sure what else might be in there but it might be a good starting point. I had this issue a long time ago when working remotely and it was a trial and error thing but in my case clearing cache then removing the TFS Team Project and re-adding it fixed the issue. You can try that. I see you did clear cache but I am not sure from reading this if you removed and re-added. If settings are cached and you dont do that I doubt you will see a change. Another more aggressive solution would be to uninstall and reinstall Team Explorer. Also, make sure your up to date on SPs. Permissions could have been messed up somehow with TFS installation and this could potentially resolve the issue. Anyway, I know this isn't a cut and dry answer but I hope it helps. I just spent the last three days upgrading all our company Team Projects from 2008 to 2010 so I feel your pain :)
The same story occured with tfs 2012 - it was installed and configured properly, local network has domain and all users in domain correctly connected and worked with tfs projects. But once the connection denied all tries for connection, all credentials were correct, but connections has been refused. Tried to configure tfs clients access, to reboot client machines... but worthless. Only **server service/machine rebooting** helped. Good luck!
6,386,127
I have to create a utf8 file (say utf8\_test.txt) in linux (Ubuntu), in c. I tried fopen(), but it create hte file depending on the Locale - as the locale was en\_IN, it created in Ascii I guess. Is there any interface or function by which I can specify the format of the file to open or I need to add some byte in the beginning of the file, so that the OS understands that it is a UTF8 file? Please give your valuable inputs. Thank you.
2011/06/17
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/6386127", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/803258/" ]
That error message is always due to a security issue but that doesn't tell you "why" there is a security issue. Can you take a look at the event log for more details- not sure what else might be in there but it might be a good starting point. I had this issue a long time ago when working remotely and it was a trial and error thing but in my case clearing cache then removing the TFS Team Project and re-adding it fixed the issue. You can try that. I see you did clear cache but I am not sure from reading this if you removed and re-added. If settings are cached and you dont do that I doubt you will see a change. Another more aggressive solution would be to uninstall and reinstall Team Explorer. Also, make sure your up to date on SPs. Permissions could have been messed up somehow with TFS installation and this could potentially resolve the issue. Anyway, I know this isn't a cut and dry answer but I hope it helps. I just spent the last three days upgrading all our company Team Projects from 2008 to 2010 so I feel your pain :)
I fixed by clearing the cache at: C:\users{yourusername}\Appdata\Local\Microsoft\Team Foundation{version e.g.3.0}\Cache Quit any open instance of visual studio first.
6,386,127
I have to create a utf8 file (say utf8\_test.txt) in linux (Ubuntu), in c. I tried fopen(), but it create hte file depending on the Locale - as the locale was en\_IN, it created in Ascii I guess. Is there any interface or function by which I can specify the format of the file to open or I need to add some byte in the beginning of the file, so that the OS understands that it is a UTF8 file? Please give your valuable inputs. Thank you.
2011/06/17
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/6386127", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/803258/" ]
It was problem at my end. Using a Different Gateway did the trick.
I've got this error once my TFS database server ran out of diskspace.
6,386,127
I have to create a utf8 file (say utf8\_test.txt) in linux (Ubuntu), in c. I tried fopen(), but it create hte file depending on the Locale - as the locale was en\_IN, it created in Ascii I guess. Is there any interface or function by which I can specify the format of the file to open or I need to add some byte in the beginning of the file, so that the OS understands that it is a UTF8 file? Please give your valuable inputs. Thank you.
2011/06/17
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/6386127", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/803258/" ]
It was problem at my end. Using a Different Gateway did the trick.
I encountered same error. I found this which looked like a viable solution. : <http://social.msdn.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/tfsversioncontrol/thread/f681a2d6-eca9-4488-96a3-ed979a545a9b> I ended up just turning my proxy settings of in IE and it started working instantly.
6,386,127
I have to create a utf8 file (say utf8\_test.txt) in linux (Ubuntu), in c. I tried fopen(), but it create hte file depending on the Locale - as the locale was en\_IN, it created in Ascii I guess. Is there any interface or function by which I can specify the format of the file to open or I need to add some byte in the beginning of the file, so that the OS understands that it is a UTF8 file? Please give your valuable inputs. Thank you.
2011/06/17
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/6386127", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/803258/" ]
It was problem at my end. Using a Different Gateway did the trick.
The same story occured with tfs 2012 - it was installed and configured properly, local network has domain and all users in domain correctly connected and worked with tfs projects. But once the connection denied all tries for connection, all credentials were correct, but connections has been refused. Tried to configure tfs clients access, to reboot client machines... but worthless. Only **server service/machine rebooting** helped. Good luck!
6,386,127
I have to create a utf8 file (say utf8\_test.txt) in linux (Ubuntu), in c. I tried fopen(), but it create hte file depending on the Locale - as the locale was en\_IN, it created in Ascii I guess. Is there any interface or function by which I can specify the format of the file to open or I need to add some byte in the beginning of the file, so that the OS understands that it is a UTF8 file? Please give your valuable inputs. Thank you.
2011/06/17
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/6386127", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/803258/" ]
It was problem at my end. Using a Different Gateway did the trick.
I fixed by clearing the cache at: C:\users{yourusername}\Appdata\Local\Microsoft\Team Foundation{version e.g.3.0}\Cache Quit any open instance of visual studio first.
342,082
Let's say I have a split view, and I want to fill half of it with a table view (a fairly common use case, I would think). Is there any way to tell the table view to size itself to fit the split view or do I really have to size it manually?
2008/12/04
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/342082", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/1512/" ]
As far as I know, doing it manually is the only way to go. However, if you turn on "snap to cocoa guidelines", the inner view will snap to the edges of the enclosing view as you drag towards them. This makes it easier than having to manually mouse the edges into place, or manually edit the sizes to match.
You can set all of the springs and struts of the table view to "on" in the size inspector and that will cause the table view to fill the split view. Alternatively, you can use the outline view in the main document window to place the tableview's enclosing scroll view directly into the splitview instead of in an intermediary custom view.
342,082
Let's say I have a split view, and I want to fill half of it with a table view (a fairly common use case, I would think). Is there any way to tell the table view to size itself to fit the split view or do I really have to size it manually?
2008/12/04
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/342082", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/1512/" ]
I've done this, the way Jon Hess mentions first. Assuming you're using Interface Builder version 3: 1. Drag and resize your GUI (tableview from what I understand?) component to fit into the enclosing area the way you want it. 2. Click it to select it. 3. Press Command-Shift-I to open the inspector window for this GUI component. The inspector window should now actually show that you've selected a "Scroll View". 4. Click the "ruler" heading to be able to set the sizing. You'll see to the right an animated representation of how your GUI component will behave within its enclosing GUI component, and to the left another represenation of the same, without animation, but with four springs and two struts that you can turn on or off. 5. Turn all six things on, making them red. Voilà :-)
You can set all of the springs and struts of the table view to "on" in the size inspector and that will cause the table view to fill the split view. Alternatively, you can use the outline view in the main document window to place the tableview's enclosing scroll view directly into the splitview instead of in an intermediary custom view.
342,082
Let's say I have a split view, and I want to fill half of it with a table view (a fairly common use case, I would think). Is there any way to tell the table view to size itself to fit the split view or do I really have to size it manually?
2008/12/04
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/342082", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/1512/" ]
It's generally easier to create the subviews first, then use the Layout/Embed Objects In/Split View menu item to create the split view around them.
You can set all of the springs and struts of the table view to "on" in the size inspector and that will cause the table view to fill the split view. Alternatively, you can use the outline view in the main document window to place the tableview's enclosing scroll view directly into the splitview instead of in an intermediary custom view.
236,629
I am building a small (6U) self-contained networking rack in an enclosed case which will accept only power and coax from the residence. The only external connections on the rack are an IEC C14 inlet and an F-type coax connector. Inside the rack case, I have various pieces of equipment like a UPS, PDU, and patch panel, which all have grounding terminal screws on the back. My plan is to bond them together with the rack rails functioning as a bonding busbar, and finally to ground the bonding system using the ground conductor on the C14 inlet. Based on my understanding of the design and intent of these systems, this will ensure that if a short occurs with the rack case or any of the cases of the bonded equipment inside of the rack, this voltage will have a safe path to the building's electrical service panel via the wall receptacle ground. (Be assured I will test continuity between all parts of the bonded system.) Have I correctly interpreted the best approach to grounding for this build, given that the finished case is not to be installed in locations where a separate building ground system will be available? Or is have I misunderstood everything and it would actually be safer to not bond or ground any of the equipment in the rack beyond their regular 3-prong grounded power cables?
2021/10/16
[ "https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/236629", "https://diy.stackexchange.com", "https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/622/" ]
Yes, that's correct. What you *Really don't want* is for a device to have a hot-ground fault... and then, the chassis of that device is now floating at 120VAC from ground. And because it's in a rack, the chassis of all the other devices are floating too. And then you touch anything, and BLAM! But if you are using UL listed\* equipment (as you should), this should all be done for you by the equipment. --- \* or competitor NRTL, such as CSA or ETL.
Are mechanical bonds required for proper grounding or safety of rack mounted equipment that is connected with 3 wire (grounded)connections? The bonding of the exterior case in this case is more of a shielding than a safety. Most rack mounted systems have faraday shielding this is to block the radio frequency interference not as a safety. My most recent example of this was a properly grounded system that was picking up noise from the adjacent rack mounted equipment to the point it delayed the opening of a surgery suite that had been completely remodeled it is powered by a UPS (very clean power) the mfg added shielding to the device and this eliminated +90% of the electrical noise the bonding was the same the only change was the shielding that was added. So the bonding of rack mounted equipment is not so much a safety for electrical shorts but to prevent or reduce the emissions or reception of radio frequency interference.
236,629
I am building a small (6U) self-contained networking rack in an enclosed case which will accept only power and coax from the residence. The only external connections on the rack are an IEC C14 inlet and an F-type coax connector. Inside the rack case, I have various pieces of equipment like a UPS, PDU, and patch panel, which all have grounding terminal screws on the back. My plan is to bond them together with the rack rails functioning as a bonding busbar, and finally to ground the bonding system using the ground conductor on the C14 inlet. Based on my understanding of the design and intent of these systems, this will ensure that if a short occurs with the rack case or any of the cases of the bonded equipment inside of the rack, this voltage will have a safe path to the building's electrical service panel via the wall receptacle ground. (Be assured I will test continuity between all parts of the bonded system.) Have I correctly interpreted the best approach to grounding for this build, given that the finished case is not to be installed in locations where a separate building ground system will be available? Or is have I misunderstood everything and it would actually be safer to not bond or ground any of the equipment in the rack beyond their regular 3-prong grounded power cables?
2021/10/16
[ "https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/236629", "https://diy.stackexchange.com", "https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/622/" ]
Yes, that's correct. What you *Really don't want* is for a device to have a hot-ground fault... and then, the chassis of that device is now floating at 120VAC from ground. And because it's in a rack, the chassis of all the other devices are floating too. And then you touch anything, and BLAM! But if you are using UL listed\* equipment (as you should), this should all be done for you by the equipment. --- \* or competitor NRTL, such as CSA or ETL.
Presuming you're in the US where it is possible to have non-grounded power sockets, I would suggest: 1. hard-wiring the input lead to the rack case, and to a 3 pin US style plug that cannot be removed. 2. clearly label the outside that a 3 pin earthed supply is required for reliable functioning of the unit 3. Add the same information into any paperwork/documents/agreements. You still can't stop some end user from cutting the plug off and wiring on a new one, using a ground-stopping adapter, or some other shennanigans, but you're now on a better footing if they do. Naturally you'll use 3 pin grounded connections inside the case and have it all secured down against vibration. Also put a good tamper-evident seal on any access panels.
50,381
How much g-force is made on an ultralight during take off if its upward velocity of 2m/s?And what's the average g force experienced during takeoff on an ultralight? ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0wetj.jpg)
2018/04/09
[ "https://aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/50381", "https://aviation.stackexchange.com", "https://aviation.stackexchange.com/users/30253/" ]
I fly part 103, specifically a Hy-Tek Hurricane. I also have a G meter on board. It is a Dynon D2, which features an artificial horizon (attitude indicator) and also a G meter. The average G's on takeoff is pretty small, usually around 1.1 to 1.2 Gs. I can also tell you it is impossible to pull anything over 2 G's during takeoff. I actually performed this test in the air at 2000ft, straight and level at full throttle (simulated takeoff from 2000ft?) at about 55mph, then pulled the stick back all the way in about 1/4 of a second until I was nearly vertical. The highest recorded G reading during this maneuver was 1.8 Gs. Of course all ultralight aircraft are different. I would NOT recommend performing this test from an actual take-off from the surface. Also you should consider that by performing the test at 2000ft, I was not in any kind of ground effect, so you would have to factor in that little bit of extra lift cushion you would get from an actual takeoff from the surface, but I would guess the extra lift component is probably small, so that is why I estimated 2 Gs max.
The answer depends on how quickly was this 2 m/s velocity reached. * Could be **2 g** if it happened within 0,2 s (9,81m/s² + 2m/s / 0,2s) * Could be **1.1 g** if we were accelerating for 2 seconds to get to 2 m/s (9,81m/s² + 2m/s / 2s) Example accelerometer recordings taken during the Cessna 152 takeoff (not exactly ultralight, but also a small plane). The first noticeable spike was about 1.2g (recorded on iphone, 30 measurements/second) [![Cessna 152 takeoff](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8r00n.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8r00n.png)
870,977
Can I mix fiber connections example below: MediaConverter(SC)<---(ST)----(panel)--(panel)-----(ST)----(LC)-->SFPportswitch
2017/08/29
[ "https://serverfault.com/questions/870977", "https://serverfault.com", "https://serverfault.com/users/169567/" ]
Yes but do ensure you're using the same fibre diameters for the full end-to-end run - i.e. if you're using 50/125u OM3/OM4 then use that throughout.
Yes, you need fiber patch cables with the appropriate ends on them and that match the type of fiber between the panels.
84,797
How do I properly place a comma after a big block-quote? Let's say I have a sentence like this: > > The author states: < a big quote goes here. >, therefore... > > > Since my sentence continues after the quote, it is sometimes necessary to put a comma or some other punctuation mark after the quote. However, sometimes the quote is inserted as a big block of text that is formatted in a special way (like on this site). How do I do it in this case? The following doesn't really seem right to me: * The author states: > > Some big quote > > > goes here. > > > , therefore...
2012/10/05
[ "https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/84797", "https://english.stackexchange.com", "https://english.stackexchange.com/users/23079/" ]
Emerson was echoing the [Great Man Theory](http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/great+man+theory) of history espoused by his contemporary, Scottish historian Thomas Carlyle, who said: > > “The history of the world is but the biography of great men.” > > > The [American Dream](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Dream) is the national ethos of the United States. To quote Wikipedia: > > The idea of the American Dream is rooted in the United States > Declaration of Independence which proclaims that "all men are created > equal" and that they are "endowed by their Creator with certain > inalienable Rights" including "Life, Liberty and the pursuit of > Happiness." > > > Meacham is arguing that the American Dream isn't simply an abstract ideal, but is a grand idea that has had a life of its own; and its biography *is* the history of the United States.
I would interpret this as saying that, as you suggest, "*properly*" is used to mean *in the strict sense of the word.* He is alluding to the fact that true history is a complete and unbiased account of the actual events that took place during some period in the past, but it is impossible for anyone to accomplish this because anyone attempting it will knowingly or unknowingly, by omission, inclusion, or interpretation, introduce their own biases and thus their account will be more a biographical account than an historical one.
442,844
A 2014 Daily Mail article by Simon Heffer, "[The Pedant’s Revolt](http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2619227/The-Pedants-Revolt-In-joyously-combative-series-SIMON-HEFFER-goes-war-sloppy-English-Be-warned-Youll-cheer-want-punch-him.html)", contains an interesting assortment of peeves about language (mostly about the meanings of words). I was familar with some of them, but I found the first incredibly surprising, and I've been wondering whether it represents a preexisting prescriptive position or is something that Heffer came up with himself. > > **ABLE** Only living beings are able. To say that ‘this key may be able to open the door’ is wrong. A man may be able to open the door using the key, or the key may unlock the door. > > > This certainly doesn't seem to describe any real fact about the English language. The Oxford English Dictionary (OED) says the word *able* comes from a French or Anglo-Norman word of various spellings and various meanings, including some that apply to inanimate objects: > > (of a person) able-bodied, muscular, powerful (second half of the 12th cent. in Anglo-Norman), **(of an inanimate object or fact) suitable, fit, appropriate (second half of the 13th cent.)**, (of a person) competent, expert (end of the 13th cent.), legally capable, entitled, or qualified (end of the 13th cent. or earlier in Anglo-Norman, frequently with reference to ability to inherit; this use is apparently not paralleled in continental French until later (1390 with reference to ability to sue, 1461 with reference to ability to inherit)), (of a ship) seaworthy (c1440 or earlier in Anglo-Norman), (of a person) intelligent, clever (1555) > > > Part b. of the OED definition of the English word says > > Since very late Middle English or early modern English, *to be able (to)* has been used (with all tenses of *to be*) as an alternative to or replacement for *can* and *could* (see can v.1 II.) in contexts relating to ability and possibility, and is now chiefly so used. In standard English since that period *can* has lacked an infinitive, present participle, past participle, and gerund; *to be able (to)* is used to replace this verb in compounds with other auxiliaries (especially supplying a future tense and perfect tenses) and in non-finite constructions. > > > The OED entry provides the following example from 1551 of "be able" being used with the subject "any Lawe": > > 1551   T. Wilson *Rule of Reason* sig. Eiv   Neither can any Lawe be **able** violentlye to force the inward thought of man. > > > Regardless, peeves about the meanings of words are often not based on actual usage, so it seems quite possible that somebody came up with this "rule" before Heffer. Does anyone know of an earlier example of somebody insisting that the word *able* can only refer to "living beings"?
2018/04/21
[ "https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/442844", "https://english.stackexchange.com", "https://english.stackexchange.com/users/77227/" ]
Note : I have not (yet) managed to find an instance, before Heffer, of a quibble being voiced regarding the attribution of 'ability' to a non-living thing but I *have* managed to find an instance, earlier than Wilson, of 'ability' *being attached* to a non-living thing. --- **The land being 'not able' to bear Abraham and Lot.** The earliest example of 'ability' attributed to a non-living thing that I have yet found is a comparison between the Coverdale Version of the bible (1535) and the Wycliffe translation of 1382 of the text regarding Abraham and Lot (Genesis 13:6). [**The Textus Receptus Interlinear**](http://textusreceptusbibles.com/Interlinear/1013006) The Coverdale is quite happy to say that : > > so yt the londe **was not able to receaue** them, that they might dwell together: for the substaunce of their riches was so greate, that they coude not dwell together. [1535]. > > > But The Wycliffe, 153 years earlier, has not so stated the matter : > > and the lond **miyte not take hem**, that thei schulden dwelle togidre, for the catel of hem was myche, and thei miyten not dwelle in comyn. [1382]. > > > After the Coverdale, the Matthew Bible (1537), The Great Bible (1539) and the King James Authorised (1611 and 1769) all have 'the land was not able to bear them'. --- So as far back as 1535 English was content to say that **a thing** was able - or 'not able' - to perform a function.
I still do not accept the premise of this question that "This certainly doesn't seem to describe any real fact about the English language." It's true that "able" is not predicated of things that are not persons, though there are some apparent exceptions when "able" is said of an instrument which has replaced an unspecified subject. All the examples given in the earlier discussion [here](https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/208102/can-vs-able-to-people-animals-vs-inanimate-objects) appear to be of this kind, e.g. "The material is able to store the gas at a much higher concentration" probably means "With this material one is able to store the gas at a much higher concentration." I just searched using the pattern "the hammer is able" and the first four examples returned were cases where "the hammer" refers to an imaginary hammer with human-like properties. (And following were some references to piano hammers.) Most examples of "able" predicated of things not people seem very peculiar, to me (as [here](https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/222480/whats-wrong-with-bananas-are-unable-to-grow-in-cold-countries/222560#222560)). I am just puzzled by how easily this grammar rule is dismissed as a bugaboo without any real investigation. Is there some general opinion that the rule appears to make no sense, whereas grammar rules are expected to make sense?
442,844
A 2014 Daily Mail article by Simon Heffer, "[The Pedant’s Revolt](http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2619227/The-Pedants-Revolt-In-joyously-combative-series-SIMON-HEFFER-goes-war-sloppy-English-Be-warned-Youll-cheer-want-punch-him.html)", contains an interesting assortment of peeves about language (mostly about the meanings of words). I was familar with some of them, but I found the first incredibly surprising, and I've been wondering whether it represents a preexisting prescriptive position or is something that Heffer came up with himself. > > **ABLE** Only living beings are able. To say that ‘this key may be able to open the door’ is wrong. A man may be able to open the door using the key, or the key may unlock the door. > > > This certainly doesn't seem to describe any real fact about the English language. The Oxford English Dictionary (OED) says the word *able* comes from a French or Anglo-Norman word of various spellings and various meanings, including some that apply to inanimate objects: > > (of a person) able-bodied, muscular, powerful (second half of the 12th cent. in Anglo-Norman), **(of an inanimate object or fact) suitable, fit, appropriate (second half of the 13th cent.)**, (of a person) competent, expert (end of the 13th cent.), legally capable, entitled, or qualified (end of the 13th cent. or earlier in Anglo-Norman, frequently with reference to ability to inherit; this use is apparently not paralleled in continental French until later (1390 with reference to ability to sue, 1461 with reference to ability to inherit)), (of a ship) seaworthy (c1440 or earlier in Anglo-Norman), (of a person) intelligent, clever (1555) > > > Part b. of the OED definition of the English word says > > Since very late Middle English or early modern English, *to be able (to)* has been used (with all tenses of *to be*) as an alternative to or replacement for *can* and *could* (see can v.1 II.) in contexts relating to ability and possibility, and is now chiefly so used. In standard English since that period *can* has lacked an infinitive, present participle, past participle, and gerund; *to be able (to)* is used to replace this verb in compounds with other auxiliaries (especially supplying a future tense and perfect tenses) and in non-finite constructions. > > > The OED entry provides the following example from 1551 of "be able" being used with the subject "any Lawe": > > 1551   T. Wilson *Rule of Reason* sig. Eiv   Neither can any Lawe be **able** violentlye to force the inward thought of man. > > > Regardless, peeves about the meanings of words are often not based on actual usage, so it seems quite possible that somebody came up with this "rule" before Heffer. Does anyone know of an earlier example of somebody insisting that the word *able* can only refer to "living beings"?
2018/04/21
[ "https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/442844", "https://english.stackexchange.com", "https://english.stackexchange.com/users/77227/" ]
I do have a certain amount of sympathy with Simon Heffer here. Saying that a person "is able", or "is unable", suggests (to my mind) that some sort of effort, physical or mental, is involved. So, since an inanimate object is incapable of making an effort, then "the key is able/unable to unlock the door" **is metaphorical**. Whether the key unlocks the door or not is a question of fact, not one dependent on ability. One could though say that "the dog was unable to climb over the fence" - since dogs do make efforts to do such things, sometimes with success, sometimes without.
I still do not accept the premise of this question that "This certainly doesn't seem to describe any real fact about the English language." It's true that "able" is not predicated of things that are not persons, though there are some apparent exceptions when "able" is said of an instrument which has replaced an unspecified subject. All the examples given in the earlier discussion [here](https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/208102/can-vs-able-to-people-animals-vs-inanimate-objects) appear to be of this kind, e.g. "The material is able to store the gas at a much higher concentration" probably means "With this material one is able to store the gas at a much higher concentration." I just searched using the pattern "the hammer is able" and the first four examples returned were cases where "the hammer" refers to an imaginary hammer with human-like properties. (And following were some references to piano hammers.) Most examples of "able" predicated of things not people seem very peculiar, to me (as [here](https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/222480/whats-wrong-with-bananas-are-unable-to-grow-in-cold-countries/222560#222560)). I am just puzzled by how easily this grammar rule is dismissed as a bugaboo without any real investigation. Is there some general opinion that the rule appears to make no sense, whereas grammar rules are expected to make sense?
31,261,813
I was working on my project with chrome device mode, yesterday it stop working saying: > > "Failed to update emulated device list. Error: Emulated device is missing required property 'images'" > > > I tried to clear cache, cookies, site data. it didn't help. I re-install chrome. it didn't help. I tried to use incognito mode and it worked. This is happens on every site I trying to enter device mode. Please help.
2015/07/07
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/31261813", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/2658042/" ]
The temporary workaround, [posted by dgozman](https://code.google.com/p/chromium/issues/detail?id=507671#c24), worked for me. Reposting here for convenience: > > 1. Undock your DevTools. > 2. Press Ctrl+Shift+I (or Cmd+Opt+I) to open DevTools for DevTools. > 3. In second DevTools, select "inspector-app-iframe(inspector.html)" in context selector at the top of console. > 4. Execute this code: > delete window.localStorage["standardEmulatedDeviceList"]; > 5. Reopen DevTools. > > >
I just opened an [issue in the tracker](https://code.google.com/p/chromium/issues/detail?id=507671) to help resolve this problem. If you can, please comment on that issue with your version of Chrome you are using. You may also star the issue (star icon to the far left of the blue box under the search area) to show the issue is affecting you and get updates. Thank you!
87,440
I'm new to the keyboard and am learning it myself. However, I've learnt Indian classical for three years. I want to know if a song that I play *has* to be played with the same fingers every time. If not, how will I ever develop muscle memory if I keep switching fingers to play the same notes?
2019/08/05
[ "https://music.stackexchange.com/questions/87440", "https://music.stackexchange.com", "https://music.stackexchange.com/users/56487/" ]
You are overthinking this. You are free to use whichever fingers you like when playing a piece but obviously some fingerings will work better than others. What you need to do is to find a fingering that works for you and then try to always do that. Your "muscle memory" will simply work when you have practiced enough. If you find a passage where there are two or more fingerings that work well for you then you simply need to select one and decide to use it. Maybe write in a few numbers on the page as a reminder. Good luck.
Think of it this way. You make a journey to somewhere. Ten times, a different way each time. Will you know the way there? Or ten times the same way. Will you then know the way there? Humans often learn by repetition. (Yes, some learn the hard way, but that's their problem!). By repeating the same action, whatever it is becomes ingrained more quickly. So why make any learning process longer than it needs to be?
87,440
I'm new to the keyboard and am learning it myself. However, I've learnt Indian classical for three years. I want to know if a song that I play *has* to be played with the same fingers every time. If not, how will I ever develop muscle memory if I keep switching fingers to play the same notes?
2019/08/05
[ "https://music.stackexchange.com/questions/87440", "https://music.stackexchange.com", "https://music.stackexchange.com/users/56487/" ]
You are overthinking this. You are free to use whichever fingers you like when playing a piece but obviously some fingerings will work better than others. What you need to do is to find a fingering that works for you and then try to always do that. Your "muscle memory" will simply work when you have practiced enough. If you find a passage where there are two or more fingerings that work well for you then you simply need to select one and decide to use it. Maybe write in a few numbers on the page as a reminder. Good luck.
We try to find a good fingering - that might mean 'good for YOU' considering your hand size - and stick to it. Not because it's a 'rule', but because it's effecient! You don't want to be hunting for each note every time you play the piece! Let your hands learn where to go, then your playing can become fluent.
87,440
I'm new to the keyboard and am learning it myself. However, I've learnt Indian classical for three years. I want to know if a song that I play *has* to be played with the same fingers every time. If not, how will I ever develop muscle memory if I keep switching fingers to play the same notes?
2019/08/05
[ "https://music.stackexchange.com/questions/87440", "https://music.stackexchange.com", "https://music.stackexchange.com/users/56487/" ]
You are overthinking this. You are free to use whichever fingers you like when playing a piece but obviously some fingerings will work better than others. What you need to do is to find a fingering that works for you and then try to always do that. Your "muscle memory" will simply work when you have practiced enough. If you find a passage where there are two or more fingerings that work well for you then you simply need to select one and decide to use it. Maybe write in a few numbers on the page as a reminder. Good luck.
Yes, it is fine, to a certain extent. I have been playing piano for over ten years and often I will switch between playing a chord 1-2-5 and 1-3-5, for no particular reason at all. However, like other answers have pointed out, you should still attempt to find the best fingering for yourself, one that is the most natural and comfortable. Occasionally, you might find multiple different fingerings that work equally well, and in that case, feel free to use any of them.
87,440
I'm new to the keyboard and am learning it myself. However, I've learnt Indian classical for three years. I want to know if a song that I play *has* to be played with the same fingers every time. If not, how will I ever develop muscle memory if I keep switching fingers to play the same notes?
2019/08/05
[ "https://music.stackexchange.com/questions/87440", "https://music.stackexchange.com", "https://music.stackexchange.com/users/56487/" ]
We try to find a good fingering - that might mean 'good for YOU' considering your hand size - and stick to it. Not because it's a 'rule', but because it's effecient! You don't want to be hunting for each note every time you play the piece! Let your hands learn where to go, then your playing can become fluent.
Think of it this way. You make a journey to somewhere. Ten times, a different way each time. Will you know the way there? Or ten times the same way. Will you then know the way there? Humans often learn by repetition. (Yes, some learn the hard way, but that's their problem!). By repeating the same action, whatever it is becomes ingrained more quickly. So why make any learning process longer than it needs to be?
87,440
I'm new to the keyboard and am learning it myself. However, I've learnt Indian classical for three years. I want to know if a song that I play *has* to be played with the same fingers every time. If not, how will I ever develop muscle memory if I keep switching fingers to play the same notes?
2019/08/05
[ "https://music.stackexchange.com/questions/87440", "https://music.stackexchange.com", "https://music.stackexchange.com/users/56487/" ]
We try to find a good fingering - that might mean 'good for YOU' considering your hand size - and stick to it. Not because it's a 'rule', but because it's effecient! You don't want to be hunting for each note every time you play the piece! Let your hands learn where to go, then your playing can become fluent.
Yes, it is fine, to a certain extent. I have been playing piano for over ten years and often I will switch between playing a chord 1-2-5 and 1-3-5, for no particular reason at all. However, like other answers have pointed out, you should still attempt to find the best fingering for yourself, one that is the most natural and comfortable. Occasionally, you might find multiple different fingerings that work equally well, and in that case, feel free to use any of them.
156,759
Im in a strange situation where my line manager has been furloughed and as a result im temporarily being put under someone else in the department who I know, have worked with before and respect. And I really like the direction my temporary one is going. Context I have been thinking for a while about changing anyway as I don't feel my main line manager is giving me the career support I crave. This is for a mixture of reasons, distance, disciplines, I feel like I get nowhere and he has his own LM issues of his own. So far my temporary one has given me alot of support, structure and a path to get to where I want to in a fairly short space and I'd very much like to see where this goes. Which I do have 3 weeks minimum until my actual manager is back. My worry is I don't want my current (furloughed) manager to take this personally, its just a different style that my temp one provides I feel is working for me and I value him as a friend as well as a boss. I appreciate everything he has done for me thus far, he is generally a great mentor and helps me with any small problems/anxieties I may have. But in terms of career I don't think I have progressed very far under him since joining the business and I don't really have alot of confidence in him where as I feel I can/do with my temporary one. My questions are: Has anyone ever had this before and how did you handle it? How did you structure the conversations to approach all parties involved?
2020/04/03
[ "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/questions/156759", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com", "https://workplace.stackexchange.com/users/88607/" ]
I respectfully suggest you wait until your company can bring people back from furloughs before you pursue this question. You can certainly tell your replacement manager you like working for them. But the timing, in the middle of a health crisis, is very likely not so good to try to ask for a change like this.
I would approach your temporary line manager first and discuss this with him. He'll probably know if staying with him is an option. If staying with him *isn't* an option then there's a good chance your furloughed line manager will never even know that the conversation took place. If staying with him *is* an option then I'd play that by ear. It's quite possible that that wouldn't be a conversation you'd even need to have with your furloughed line manager - that your current temporary one could have that conversation on your behalf. In this scenario whether or not you want to talk to your old / currently furloughed manager would be your prerogative. It might be strategically advantageous to do so in the long term or it might not - it really depends on your situation.
18,376
Anonymity is one of the desirable requirements of voting process in elections. Are there states where voting is not anonymous i.e. who voted whom is public?
2017/04/24
[ "https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/18376", "https://politics.stackexchange.com", "https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/8377/" ]
It seems that Nigeria uses an [open ballot system](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open_ballot_system) in order to minimize potential for election fraud. As @CortAmmon states in the comments above, public voting is desirable in some cases. For example, in a representative democracy, it is important for constituents to be able to audit the votes of their representatives, to make sure the representative is faithfully representing the constituents' interests.
The Swiss Cantons of Apenzell and Glaris have a system where people vote in public, in the open air in front of everyone. The german name for that is *Landsgemeinde*, which translates roughtly in "Land's community".
56,899
Recently, the current United States President [suggested that people in North Carolina vote twice](https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/election-us-2020-54011022) in the upcoming election: once by postal vote and once in person. Apparently there are measures in place to [prevent people from voting twice](https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/164/is-there-any-mechanism-in-usa-to-prevent-someone-from-voting-by-mail-and-in-pers). Is there any particular significance in picking North Carolina to suggest this to? I suspect there is some motive behind it (though motives aren't something anyone can answer here so that isn't my question, only whether North Carolina is significant in any way).
2020/09/03
[ "https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/56899", "https://politics.stackexchange.com", "https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/11459/" ]
Other answers about "testing" the system are close to the mark IMO; but based on my previous observation of Trump's MO: this is not about the election; this is about the campaign. Trump has many times in the past tried to sell a narrative of the American left - the Dems themselves, news media that supports them, Twitterati, bloggers, academics, etc. - being hypocritical, insincere or otherwise "phony". What makes the most sense to me is that he wishes to provoke an immediate response from that political direction to the statement, and then criticize that response (or let the analogous people on his side do it for him). The most likely messaging in response is that Trump is advocating for a specific means of voter fraud. This accomplishes two goals for Trump: 1. It keeps the topic of voter fraud in the national discussion. 2. It means that his critics *implicitly endorse the notion* that the proposed method of voter fraud *would actually work*. That is: "if you don't think voter fraud is a real concern; if you *don't think that voter fraud could be accomplished* by doing X; then *what legitimate reason do you have* to care about me telling my supporters to do X? The lady doth protest too much, methinks. Since you obviously care, you must think it would work. And that's the real reason you've been so insistent on universal mail-in voting in the first place. J'accuse!" So goes (or would go, I predict) the narrative.
I'm not aware that there is any significance to making this suggestion to North Carolina voters. The methods to check for duplicate voting attempts appear to be fairly uniform as it applies to voting twice (once by mail, followed by another attempt in person). This video of the full exchange between Trump and a local broadcaster [Link](https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2020/sep/03/north-carolinians-should-vote-twice-says-trump-despite-illegality) is useful to consider, while he was asked about North Carolina mail-in-votes, his response could be applied to any other state that has enabled any vote by mail system If, however, tens of thousands of voters should attempt to "test" the system it will create havoc at the polling place. Ultimately the test of the system would be to have a provisional ballot rejected. That is really what the suggestion sets up. I would anticipate that the "testing" voter at the polling place would be denied a regular ballot, but would be given the opportunity to cast a provisional ballot. The voter would now have to fill out that paperwork, and cast a provisional ballot. That provisional ballot would then have to be investigated, the only real proof that a mail-in-ballot had been received by the county would be to locate the security or authentication envelope with his signature. At that point the county would be faced with a question of charging the "testing" voter with attempted election fraud. Unless there is evidence of intentional fraud (voter told neighbors his intent to "test" the system, the case against the voter will not be prosecuted aggresively (particularly if an older voter insists that he just forgot, "memory isn't what it used to be") The result, IMO, of the suggestion to have voters "test" the system is to create chaos on election day and for days thereafter.
56,899
Recently, the current United States President [suggested that people in North Carolina vote twice](https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/election-us-2020-54011022) in the upcoming election: once by postal vote and once in person. Apparently there are measures in place to [prevent people from voting twice](https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/164/is-there-any-mechanism-in-usa-to-prevent-someone-from-voting-by-mail-and-in-pers). Is there any particular significance in picking North Carolina to suggest this to? I suspect there is some motive behind it (though motives aren't something anyone can answer here so that isn't my question, only whether North Carolina is significant in any way).
2020/09/03
[ "https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/56899", "https://politics.stackexchange.com", "https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/11459/" ]
I'm not aware that there is any significance to making this suggestion to North Carolina voters. The methods to check for duplicate voting attempts appear to be fairly uniform as it applies to voting twice (once by mail, followed by another attempt in person). This video of the full exchange between Trump and a local broadcaster [Link](https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2020/sep/03/north-carolinians-should-vote-twice-says-trump-despite-illegality) is useful to consider, while he was asked about North Carolina mail-in-votes, his response could be applied to any other state that has enabled any vote by mail system If, however, tens of thousands of voters should attempt to "test" the system it will create havoc at the polling place. Ultimately the test of the system would be to have a provisional ballot rejected. That is really what the suggestion sets up. I would anticipate that the "testing" voter at the polling place would be denied a regular ballot, but would be given the opportunity to cast a provisional ballot. The voter would now have to fill out that paperwork, and cast a provisional ballot. That provisional ballot would then have to be investigated, the only real proof that a mail-in-ballot had been received by the county would be to locate the security or authentication envelope with his signature. At that point the county would be faced with a question of charging the "testing" voter with attempted election fraud. Unless there is evidence of intentional fraud (voter told neighbors his intent to "test" the system, the case against the voter will not be prosecuted aggresively (particularly if an older voter insists that he just forgot, "memory isn't what it used to be") The result, IMO, of the suggestion to have voters "test" the system is to create chaos on election day and for days thereafter.
It could potentially give a line of attack. "Why are Democrats making a big deal of what I said, they said that vote by mail is fine and would detect and fix any problems. They must know how easy fraud can happen!" At this point in the race, there is every indication that Biden is significantly ahead and likely to win absent any changes. He is trying the same formula that beat Hillary: cause as much chaos and hope that it shakes out in his favor. With that being said, he also tried to sow doubt about election results in 16. Many sources make the claim that he thought he was going to lose and was looking forward to jump starting a media network. If true putting that election results in question would be very useful, even if only his hardcore fans believe it. This year there is an added twist: the time difference between when in person and mail on votes get counted. Having a good lead from the initial votes has obvious benefits for Trump (with respect to sowing election discord) if the final vote goes against him.
56,899
Recently, the current United States President [suggested that people in North Carolina vote twice](https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/election-us-2020-54011022) in the upcoming election: once by postal vote and once in person. Apparently there are measures in place to [prevent people from voting twice](https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/164/is-there-any-mechanism-in-usa-to-prevent-someone-from-voting-by-mail-and-in-pers). Is there any particular significance in picking North Carolina to suggest this to? I suspect there is some motive behind it (though motives aren't something anyone can answer here so that isn't my question, only whether North Carolina is significant in any way).
2020/09/03
[ "https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/56899", "https://politics.stackexchange.com", "https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/11459/" ]
This is the modern mass-media era. Trump may have been speaking *in* North Carolina, but he — like any other national level candidate — is aware that he is speaking *to* the nation as a whole. Note that after he made this statement — as the article points out — he followed it with a tweet on the same subject, explicitly aimed at a national audience. If I were to read Trump generously, I would point out that the idea of verifying that your mail-in ballot has been received is a good idea. Many states have implemented (or are implementing) web portals where voters can check that their ballots have arrived. North Carolina in particular is [currently implementing a portal called '*BallotTrax*'](https://www.ncsbe.gov/voting/vote-mail) (see the notes at the end of the link). In states that have strict deadlines for receiving mail-in ballots, it might be worthwhile checking the portal on election day. If the ballot has not yet been received, you can go to the polling place and ask the workers *specifically* if you can file a provisional ballot because your mail-in ballot has not been acknowledged. The rules for that will vary from state to state, but poll workers will have been trained for that issue, and if you *explicitly* ask for a provisional ballot for that reason you can avoid any accusation of fraud. Everyone should check their own state's voting webpage to locate their state's tracking portal. As of this writing, neither the Federal government nor some zealously political Wikipedia editor has amassed a comprehensive list of this voting resource. The former omission is unfortunately typical, but the latter is (frankly) surprising. However, Trump being Trump, I find it unlikely that he meant this statement as a Public Service Announcement to aid worried voters. It seems far more likely that this is yet another effort to troll the democratic institution of voting, generating conflict, doubt, and insecurity which delegitimizes the election process. Now that Trump has made this comment — one that he will undoubtable double-down on, as he doubles-down on *all* of his more outrageous statements — we can safely assume that a significant portion of his most energized base will follow through, leading to hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of people attempting to vote twice. There are only three possible outcomes from this, in increasing order of severity: 1. The vast majority of such attempts will be caught and the doubled-ballots discarded. This will have no effect on the election outcome, but undoubtably the large-scale attempt at fraud (or if you prefer, 'testing') will be reported by the news media. Since the duplicates will be discarded without reading or recording their content, there will be no way to correlate the influx with Trump's base, and so Trump (if he loses) will use the news reports to attack the election and accuse the Democrats of massive fraud. It's worth noting in this regard that Trump's statements might also convince his energized opponents to *defensively* cast doubled ballots — an extremely bad idea, but partisans are not always the most clear-thinking people — which will further confuse the issue. 2. A sufficient number of duplicate votes will pass through the system to affect the outcome. If Trump wins he will declare the election valid and fair and block any effort to investigate; if Trump loses he will again accuse the Democrats of fraud, and use his lame-duck period to try to overturn the election results. 3. Certain districts might independently use the influx of duplicate ballots to *create* fraud on a massive scale, selectively processing a number of the duplicate ballots on the assumption that no one will look if Trump retakes the oval office. Any of these outcomes will ultimately benefit Trump, assuming he can leverage the resulting confusion and partisan hostility to his advantage. Trolling the institution of voting in this way has no immediate cost for him and several potential long-term benefits, despite the fact that it damages the institution in question.
**Trump desires to ensure ballot integrity in a key electoral state.** North Carolina is a swing state, so where majors parties win by thin margins, and a few uncounted votes can mean victory or defeat. Another interpretation of Trump's comment is to not actually vote twice, but to verify the vote was cast by *trying* to vote and being rejected to test the system. Kind of like making two reservations for the exact same thing on a website: if the second attempt fails, good, if it succeeds, not good. According to that interpretation, he would not actually be encouraging voter fraud. He's telling people to verify their vote was counted. Next question to wonder is: Is this a good method? No. Trump's error here is assuming votes are tabulated quickly enough (put in some kind of central database) for people to be prevented to vote twice, but apparently it's not the case, so even if one voted with no problem, they'd be allowed to vote a second time. And like for a website's purchase, they are possibly better options: calling officials to check the vote was cast correctly, checking on an official website. --- More on this interpretation of Trump's reasoning: it's possible Trump assumed voting in North Carolina was based on a system where you must first confirm you're eligible to vote before doing it, whereas the system is more like an [honor-based system](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honor_system). For example, in most places, you must have a valid ticket to take public transit, or any similar controlled area where only some authorized people are allowed in. However, it's not enforced the same way everywhere. In some places, you must first scan your ticket to ensure its validity (possibly similar to what Trump thought), and you are rejected if it's not, whereas in other places, you're allowed in, trusting you have a valid one, and if you get caught, you get a fine (more like reality in the case of voting). As a comment seems to suggest, it's possible in North Carolina, merely *trying* can get you arrested. In other places, you'd just be required to confirm you're allowed to vote before moving further.
56,899
Recently, the current United States President [suggested that people in North Carolina vote twice](https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/election-us-2020-54011022) in the upcoming election: once by postal vote and once in person. Apparently there are measures in place to [prevent people from voting twice](https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/164/is-there-any-mechanism-in-usa-to-prevent-someone-from-voting-by-mail-and-in-pers). Is there any particular significance in picking North Carolina to suggest this to? I suspect there is some motive behind it (though motives aren't something anyone can answer here so that isn't my question, only whether North Carolina is significant in any way).
2020/09/03
[ "https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/56899", "https://politics.stackexchange.com", "https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/11459/" ]
Other answers about "testing" the system are close to the mark IMO; but based on my previous observation of Trump's MO: this is not about the election; this is about the campaign. Trump has many times in the past tried to sell a narrative of the American left - the Dems themselves, news media that supports them, Twitterati, bloggers, academics, etc. - being hypocritical, insincere or otherwise "phony". What makes the most sense to me is that he wishes to provoke an immediate response from that political direction to the statement, and then criticize that response (or let the analogous people on his side do it for him). The most likely messaging in response is that Trump is advocating for a specific means of voter fraud. This accomplishes two goals for Trump: 1. It keeps the topic of voter fraud in the national discussion. 2. It means that his critics *implicitly endorse the notion* that the proposed method of voter fraud *would actually work*. That is: "if you don't think voter fraud is a real concern; if you *don't think that voter fraud could be accomplished* by doing X; then *what legitimate reason do you have* to care about me telling my supporters to do X? The lady doth protest too much, methinks. Since you obviously care, you must think it would work. And that's the real reason you've been so insistent on universal mail-in voting in the first place. J'accuse!" So goes (or would go, I predict) the narrative.
It could potentially give a line of attack. "Why are Democrats making a big deal of what I said, they said that vote by mail is fine and would detect and fix any problems. They must know how easy fraud can happen!" At this point in the race, there is every indication that Biden is significantly ahead and likely to win absent any changes. He is trying the same formula that beat Hillary: cause as much chaos and hope that it shakes out in his favor. With that being said, he also tried to sow doubt about election results in 16. Many sources make the claim that he thought he was going to lose and was looking forward to jump starting a media network. If true putting that election results in question would be very useful, even if only his hardcore fans believe it. This year there is an added twist: the time difference between when in person and mail on votes get counted. Having a good lead from the initial votes has obvious benefits for Trump (with respect to sowing election discord) if the final vote goes against him.
56,899
Recently, the current United States President [suggested that people in North Carolina vote twice](https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/election-us-2020-54011022) in the upcoming election: once by postal vote and once in person. Apparently there are measures in place to [prevent people from voting twice](https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/164/is-there-any-mechanism-in-usa-to-prevent-someone-from-voting-by-mail-and-in-pers). Is there any particular significance in picking North Carolina to suggest this to? I suspect there is some motive behind it (though motives aren't something anyone can answer here so that isn't my question, only whether North Carolina is significant in any way).
2020/09/03
[ "https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/56899", "https://politics.stackexchange.com", "https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/11459/" ]
This is the modern mass-media era. Trump may have been speaking *in* North Carolina, but he — like any other national level candidate — is aware that he is speaking *to* the nation as a whole. Note that after he made this statement — as the article points out — he followed it with a tweet on the same subject, explicitly aimed at a national audience. If I were to read Trump generously, I would point out that the idea of verifying that your mail-in ballot has been received is a good idea. Many states have implemented (or are implementing) web portals where voters can check that their ballots have arrived. North Carolina in particular is [currently implementing a portal called '*BallotTrax*'](https://www.ncsbe.gov/voting/vote-mail) (see the notes at the end of the link). In states that have strict deadlines for receiving mail-in ballots, it might be worthwhile checking the portal on election day. If the ballot has not yet been received, you can go to the polling place and ask the workers *specifically* if you can file a provisional ballot because your mail-in ballot has not been acknowledged. The rules for that will vary from state to state, but poll workers will have been trained for that issue, and if you *explicitly* ask for a provisional ballot for that reason you can avoid any accusation of fraud. Everyone should check their own state's voting webpage to locate their state's tracking portal. As of this writing, neither the Federal government nor some zealously political Wikipedia editor has amassed a comprehensive list of this voting resource. The former omission is unfortunately typical, but the latter is (frankly) surprising. However, Trump being Trump, I find it unlikely that he meant this statement as a Public Service Announcement to aid worried voters. It seems far more likely that this is yet another effort to troll the democratic institution of voting, generating conflict, doubt, and insecurity which delegitimizes the election process. Now that Trump has made this comment — one that he will undoubtable double-down on, as he doubles-down on *all* of his more outrageous statements — we can safely assume that a significant portion of his most energized base will follow through, leading to hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of people attempting to vote twice. There are only three possible outcomes from this, in increasing order of severity: 1. The vast majority of such attempts will be caught and the doubled-ballots discarded. This will have no effect on the election outcome, but undoubtably the large-scale attempt at fraud (or if you prefer, 'testing') will be reported by the news media. Since the duplicates will be discarded without reading or recording their content, there will be no way to correlate the influx with Trump's base, and so Trump (if he loses) will use the news reports to attack the election and accuse the Democrats of massive fraud. It's worth noting in this regard that Trump's statements might also convince his energized opponents to *defensively* cast doubled ballots — an extremely bad idea, but partisans are not always the most clear-thinking people — which will further confuse the issue. 2. A sufficient number of duplicate votes will pass through the system to affect the outcome. If Trump wins he will declare the election valid and fair and block any effort to investigate; if Trump loses he will again accuse the Democrats of fraud, and use his lame-duck period to try to overturn the election results. 3. Certain districts might independently use the influx of duplicate ballots to *create* fraud on a massive scale, selectively processing a number of the duplicate ballots on the assumption that no one will look if Trump retakes the oval office. Any of these outcomes will ultimately benefit Trump, assuming he can leverage the resulting confusion and partisan hostility to his advantage. Trolling the institution of voting in this way has no immediate cost for him and several potential long-term benefits, despite the fact that it damages the institution in question.
As the BBC article explains, **Trump frequently makes baseless allegations that the election system is prone to fraud**. The only thing unusual about this most recent remark is that he's encouraging his *own* supporters to commit voter fraud. He happened to be in North Carolina when he made these remarks, and it is relevant to know that **[Trump and Biden are neck-and-neck in recent North Carolina polls](https://www.realclearpolitics.com/epolls/2020/president/nc/north_carolina_trump_vs_biden-6744.html)**. So the logical interpretation of Trump's motive here is simply that he's encouraging his supporters to do anything and everything they can to help ensure he wins in North Carolina. I can find no reason to think that North Carolina voters are especially likely to succeed if they attempt to vote twice.
56,899
Recently, the current United States President [suggested that people in North Carolina vote twice](https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/election-us-2020-54011022) in the upcoming election: once by postal vote and once in person. Apparently there are measures in place to [prevent people from voting twice](https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/164/is-there-any-mechanism-in-usa-to-prevent-someone-from-voting-by-mail-and-in-pers). Is there any particular significance in picking North Carolina to suggest this to? I suspect there is some motive behind it (though motives aren't something anyone can answer here so that isn't my question, only whether North Carolina is significant in any way).
2020/09/03
[ "https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/56899", "https://politics.stackexchange.com", "https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/11459/" ]
This is the modern mass-media era. Trump may have been speaking *in* North Carolina, but he — like any other national level candidate — is aware that he is speaking *to* the nation as a whole. Note that after he made this statement — as the article points out — he followed it with a tweet on the same subject, explicitly aimed at a national audience. If I were to read Trump generously, I would point out that the idea of verifying that your mail-in ballot has been received is a good idea. Many states have implemented (or are implementing) web portals where voters can check that their ballots have arrived. North Carolina in particular is [currently implementing a portal called '*BallotTrax*'](https://www.ncsbe.gov/voting/vote-mail) (see the notes at the end of the link). In states that have strict deadlines for receiving mail-in ballots, it might be worthwhile checking the portal on election day. If the ballot has not yet been received, you can go to the polling place and ask the workers *specifically* if you can file a provisional ballot because your mail-in ballot has not been acknowledged. The rules for that will vary from state to state, but poll workers will have been trained for that issue, and if you *explicitly* ask for a provisional ballot for that reason you can avoid any accusation of fraud. Everyone should check their own state's voting webpage to locate their state's tracking portal. As of this writing, neither the Federal government nor some zealously political Wikipedia editor has amassed a comprehensive list of this voting resource. The former omission is unfortunately typical, but the latter is (frankly) surprising. However, Trump being Trump, I find it unlikely that he meant this statement as a Public Service Announcement to aid worried voters. It seems far more likely that this is yet another effort to troll the democratic institution of voting, generating conflict, doubt, and insecurity which delegitimizes the election process. Now that Trump has made this comment — one that he will undoubtable double-down on, as he doubles-down on *all* of his more outrageous statements — we can safely assume that a significant portion of his most energized base will follow through, leading to hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of people attempting to vote twice. There are only three possible outcomes from this, in increasing order of severity: 1. The vast majority of such attempts will be caught and the doubled-ballots discarded. This will have no effect on the election outcome, but undoubtably the large-scale attempt at fraud (or if you prefer, 'testing') will be reported by the news media. Since the duplicates will be discarded without reading or recording their content, there will be no way to correlate the influx with Trump's base, and so Trump (if he loses) will use the news reports to attack the election and accuse the Democrats of massive fraud. It's worth noting in this regard that Trump's statements might also convince his energized opponents to *defensively* cast doubled ballots — an extremely bad idea, but partisans are not always the most clear-thinking people — which will further confuse the issue. 2. A sufficient number of duplicate votes will pass through the system to affect the outcome. If Trump wins he will declare the election valid and fair and block any effort to investigate; if Trump loses he will again accuse the Democrats of fraud, and use his lame-duck period to try to overturn the election results. 3. Certain districts might independently use the influx of duplicate ballots to *create* fraud on a massive scale, selectively processing a number of the duplicate ballots on the assumption that no one will look if Trump retakes the oval office. Any of these outcomes will ultimately benefit Trump, assuming he can leverage the resulting confusion and partisan hostility to his advantage. Trolling the institution of voting in this way has no immediate cost for him and several potential long-term benefits, despite the fact that it damages the institution in question.
I'm not aware that there is any significance to making this suggestion to North Carolina voters. The methods to check for duplicate voting attempts appear to be fairly uniform as it applies to voting twice (once by mail, followed by another attempt in person). This video of the full exchange between Trump and a local broadcaster [Link](https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2020/sep/03/north-carolinians-should-vote-twice-says-trump-despite-illegality) is useful to consider, while he was asked about North Carolina mail-in-votes, his response could be applied to any other state that has enabled any vote by mail system If, however, tens of thousands of voters should attempt to "test" the system it will create havoc at the polling place. Ultimately the test of the system would be to have a provisional ballot rejected. That is really what the suggestion sets up. I would anticipate that the "testing" voter at the polling place would be denied a regular ballot, but would be given the opportunity to cast a provisional ballot. The voter would now have to fill out that paperwork, and cast a provisional ballot. That provisional ballot would then have to be investigated, the only real proof that a mail-in-ballot had been received by the county would be to locate the security or authentication envelope with his signature. At that point the county would be faced with a question of charging the "testing" voter with attempted election fraud. Unless there is evidence of intentional fraud (voter told neighbors his intent to "test" the system, the case against the voter will not be prosecuted aggresively (particularly if an older voter insists that he just forgot, "memory isn't what it used to be") The result, IMO, of the suggestion to have voters "test" the system is to create chaos on election day and for days thereafter.
56,899
Recently, the current United States President [suggested that people in North Carolina vote twice](https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/election-us-2020-54011022) in the upcoming election: once by postal vote and once in person. Apparently there are measures in place to [prevent people from voting twice](https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/164/is-there-any-mechanism-in-usa-to-prevent-someone-from-voting-by-mail-and-in-pers). Is there any particular significance in picking North Carolina to suggest this to? I suspect there is some motive behind it (though motives aren't something anyone can answer here so that isn't my question, only whether North Carolina is significant in any way).
2020/09/03
[ "https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/56899", "https://politics.stackexchange.com", "https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/11459/" ]
This is the modern mass-media era. Trump may have been speaking *in* North Carolina, but he — like any other national level candidate — is aware that he is speaking *to* the nation as a whole. Note that after he made this statement — as the article points out — he followed it with a tweet on the same subject, explicitly aimed at a national audience. If I were to read Trump generously, I would point out that the idea of verifying that your mail-in ballot has been received is a good idea. Many states have implemented (or are implementing) web portals where voters can check that their ballots have arrived. North Carolina in particular is [currently implementing a portal called '*BallotTrax*'](https://www.ncsbe.gov/voting/vote-mail) (see the notes at the end of the link). In states that have strict deadlines for receiving mail-in ballots, it might be worthwhile checking the portal on election day. If the ballot has not yet been received, you can go to the polling place and ask the workers *specifically* if you can file a provisional ballot because your mail-in ballot has not been acknowledged. The rules for that will vary from state to state, but poll workers will have been trained for that issue, and if you *explicitly* ask for a provisional ballot for that reason you can avoid any accusation of fraud. Everyone should check their own state's voting webpage to locate their state's tracking portal. As of this writing, neither the Federal government nor some zealously political Wikipedia editor has amassed a comprehensive list of this voting resource. The former omission is unfortunately typical, but the latter is (frankly) surprising. However, Trump being Trump, I find it unlikely that he meant this statement as a Public Service Announcement to aid worried voters. It seems far more likely that this is yet another effort to troll the democratic institution of voting, generating conflict, doubt, and insecurity which delegitimizes the election process. Now that Trump has made this comment — one that he will undoubtable double-down on, as he doubles-down on *all* of his more outrageous statements — we can safely assume that a significant portion of his most energized base will follow through, leading to hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of people attempting to vote twice. There are only three possible outcomes from this, in increasing order of severity: 1. The vast majority of such attempts will be caught and the doubled-ballots discarded. This will have no effect on the election outcome, but undoubtably the large-scale attempt at fraud (or if you prefer, 'testing') will be reported by the news media. Since the duplicates will be discarded without reading or recording their content, there will be no way to correlate the influx with Trump's base, and so Trump (if he loses) will use the news reports to attack the election and accuse the Democrats of massive fraud. It's worth noting in this regard that Trump's statements might also convince his energized opponents to *defensively* cast doubled ballots — an extremely bad idea, but partisans are not always the most clear-thinking people — which will further confuse the issue. 2. A sufficient number of duplicate votes will pass through the system to affect the outcome. If Trump wins he will declare the election valid and fair and block any effort to investigate; if Trump loses he will again accuse the Democrats of fraud, and use his lame-duck period to try to overturn the election results. 3. Certain districts might independently use the influx of duplicate ballots to *create* fraud on a massive scale, selectively processing a number of the duplicate ballots on the assumption that no one will look if Trump retakes the oval office. Any of these outcomes will ultimately benefit Trump, assuming he can leverage the resulting confusion and partisan hostility to his advantage. Trolling the institution of voting in this way has no immediate cost for him and several potential long-term benefits, despite the fact that it damages the institution in question.
It could potentially give a line of attack. "Why are Democrats making a big deal of what I said, they said that vote by mail is fine and would detect and fix any problems. They must know how easy fraud can happen!" At this point in the race, there is every indication that Biden is significantly ahead and likely to win absent any changes. He is trying the same formula that beat Hillary: cause as much chaos and hope that it shakes out in his favor. With that being said, he also tried to sow doubt about election results in 16. Many sources make the claim that he thought he was going to lose and was looking forward to jump starting a media network. If true putting that election results in question would be very useful, even if only his hardcore fans believe it. This year there is an added twist: the time difference between when in person and mail on votes get counted. Having a good lead from the initial votes has obvious benefits for Trump (with respect to sowing election discord) if the final vote goes against him.
56,899
Recently, the current United States President [suggested that people in North Carolina vote twice](https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/election-us-2020-54011022) in the upcoming election: once by postal vote and once in person. Apparently there are measures in place to [prevent people from voting twice](https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/164/is-there-any-mechanism-in-usa-to-prevent-someone-from-voting-by-mail-and-in-pers). Is there any particular significance in picking North Carolina to suggest this to? I suspect there is some motive behind it (though motives aren't something anyone can answer here so that isn't my question, only whether North Carolina is significant in any way).
2020/09/03
[ "https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/56899", "https://politics.stackexchange.com", "https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/11459/" ]
As the BBC article explains, **Trump frequently makes baseless allegations that the election system is prone to fraud**. The only thing unusual about this most recent remark is that he's encouraging his *own* supporters to commit voter fraud. He happened to be in North Carolina when he made these remarks, and it is relevant to know that **[Trump and Biden are neck-and-neck in recent North Carolina polls](https://www.realclearpolitics.com/epolls/2020/president/nc/north_carolina_trump_vs_biden-6744.html)**. So the logical interpretation of Trump's motive here is simply that he's encouraging his supporters to do anything and everything they can to help ensure he wins in North Carolina. I can find no reason to think that North Carolina voters are especially likely to succeed if they attempt to vote twice.
**Trump desires to ensure ballot integrity in a key electoral state.** North Carolina is a swing state, so where majors parties win by thin margins, and a few uncounted votes can mean victory or defeat. Another interpretation of Trump's comment is to not actually vote twice, but to verify the vote was cast by *trying* to vote and being rejected to test the system. Kind of like making two reservations for the exact same thing on a website: if the second attempt fails, good, if it succeeds, not good. According to that interpretation, he would not actually be encouraging voter fraud. He's telling people to verify their vote was counted. Next question to wonder is: Is this a good method? No. Trump's error here is assuming votes are tabulated quickly enough (put in some kind of central database) for people to be prevented to vote twice, but apparently it's not the case, so even if one voted with no problem, they'd be allowed to vote a second time. And like for a website's purchase, they are possibly better options: calling officials to check the vote was cast correctly, checking on an official website. --- More on this interpretation of Trump's reasoning: it's possible Trump assumed voting in North Carolina was based on a system where you must first confirm you're eligible to vote before doing it, whereas the system is more like an [honor-based system](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honor_system). For example, in most places, you must have a valid ticket to take public transit, or any similar controlled area where only some authorized people are allowed in. However, it's not enforced the same way everywhere. In some places, you must first scan your ticket to ensure its validity (possibly similar to what Trump thought), and you are rejected if it's not, whereas in other places, you're allowed in, trusting you have a valid one, and if you get caught, you get a fine (more like reality in the case of voting). As a comment seems to suggest, it's possible in North Carolina, merely *trying* can get you arrested. In other places, you'd just be required to confirm you're allowed to vote before moving further.
56,899
Recently, the current United States President [suggested that people in North Carolina vote twice](https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/election-us-2020-54011022) in the upcoming election: once by postal vote and once in person. Apparently there are measures in place to [prevent people from voting twice](https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/164/is-there-any-mechanism-in-usa-to-prevent-someone-from-voting-by-mail-and-in-pers). Is there any particular significance in picking North Carolina to suggest this to? I suspect there is some motive behind it (though motives aren't something anyone can answer here so that isn't my question, only whether North Carolina is significant in any way).
2020/09/03
[ "https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/56899", "https://politics.stackexchange.com", "https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/11459/" ]
As the BBC article explains, **Trump frequently makes baseless allegations that the election system is prone to fraud**. The only thing unusual about this most recent remark is that he's encouraging his *own* supporters to commit voter fraud. He happened to be in North Carolina when he made these remarks, and it is relevant to know that **[Trump and Biden are neck-and-neck in recent North Carolina polls](https://www.realclearpolitics.com/epolls/2020/president/nc/north_carolina_trump_vs_biden-6744.html)**. So the logical interpretation of Trump's motive here is simply that he's encouraging his supporters to do anything and everything they can to help ensure he wins in North Carolina. I can find no reason to think that North Carolina voters are especially likely to succeed if they attempt to vote twice.
Other answers about "testing" the system are close to the mark IMO; but based on my previous observation of Trump's MO: this is not about the election; this is about the campaign. Trump has many times in the past tried to sell a narrative of the American left - the Dems themselves, news media that supports them, Twitterati, bloggers, academics, etc. - being hypocritical, insincere or otherwise "phony". What makes the most sense to me is that he wishes to provoke an immediate response from that political direction to the statement, and then criticize that response (or let the analogous people on his side do it for him). The most likely messaging in response is that Trump is advocating for a specific means of voter fraud. This accomplishes two goals for Trump: 1. It keeps the topic of voter fraud in the national discussion. 2. It means that his critics *implicitly endorse the notion* that the proposed method of voter fraud *would actually work*. That is: "if you don't think voter fraud is a real concern; if you *don't think that voter fraud could be accomplished* by doing X; then *what legitimate reason do you have* to care about me telling my supporters to do X? The lady doth protest too much, methinks. Since you obviously care, you must think it would work. And that's the real reason you've been so insistent on universal mail-in voting in the first place. J'accuse!" So goes (or would go, I predict) the narrative.
56,899
Recently, the current United States President [suggested that people in North Carolina vote twice](https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/election-us-2020-54011022) in the upcoming election: once by postal vote and once in person. Apparently there are measures in place to [prevent people from voting twice](https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/164/is-there-any-mechanism-in-usa-to-prevent-someone-from-voting-by-mail-and-in-pers). Is there any particular significance in picking North Carolina to suggest this to? I suspect there is some motive behind it (though motives aren't something anyone can answer here so that isn't my question, only whether North Carolina is significant in any way).
2020/09/03
[ "https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/56899", "https://politics.stackexchange.com", "https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/11459/" ]
I'm not aware that there is any significance to making this suggestion to North Carolina voters. The methods to check for duplicate voting attempts appear to be fairly uniform as it applies to voting twice (once by mail, followed by another attempt in person). This video of the full exchange between Trump and a local broadcaster [Link](https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2020/sep/03/north-carolinians-should-vote-twice-says-trump-despite-illegality) is useful to consider, while he was asked about North Carolina mail-in-votes, his response could be applied to any other state that has enabled any vote by mail system If, however, tens of thousands of voters should attempt to "test" the system it will create havoc at the polling place. Ultimately the test of the system would be to have a provisional ballot rejected. That is really what the suggestion sets up. I would anticipate that the "testing" voter at the polling place would be denied a regular ballot, but would be given the opportunity to cast a provisional ballot. The voter would now have to fill out that paperwork, and cast a provisional ballot. That provisional ballot would then have to be investigated, the only real proof that a mail-in-ballot had been received by the county would be to locate the security or authentication envelope with his signature. At that point the county would be faced with a question of charging the "testing" voter with attempted election fraud. Unless there is evidence of intentional fraud (voter told neighbors his intent to "test" the system, the case against the voter will not be prosecuted aggresively (particularly if an older voter insists that he just forgot, "memory isn't what it used to be") The result, IMO, of the suggestion to have voters "test" the system is to create chaos on election day and for days thereafter.
**Trump desires to ensure ballot integrity in a key electoral state.** North Carolina is a swing state, so where majors parties win by thin margins, and a few uncounted votes can mean victory or defeat. Another interpretation of Trump's comment is to not actually vote twice, but to verify the vote was cast by *trying* to vote and being rejected to test the system. Kind of like making two reservations for the exact same thing on a website: if the second attempt fails, good, if it succeeds, not good. According to that interpretation, he would not actually be encouraging voter fraud. He's telling people to verify their vote was counted. Next question to wonder is: Is this a good method? No. Trump's error here is assuming votes are tabulated quickly enough (put in some kind of central database) for people to be prevented to vote twice, but apparently it's not the case, so even if one voted with no problem, they'd be allowed to vote a second time. And like for a website's purchase, they are possibly better options: calling officials to check the vote was cast correctly, checking on an official website. --- More on this interpretation of Trump's reasoning: it's possible Trump assumed voting in North Carolina was based on a system where you must first confirm you're eligible to vote before doing it, whereas the system is more like an [honor-based system](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honor_system). For example, in most places, you must have a valid ticket to take public transit, or any similar controlled area where only some authorized people are allowed in. However, it's not enforced the same way everywhere. In some places, you must first scan your ticket to ensure its validity (possibly similar to what Trump thought), and you are rejected if it's not, whereas in other places, you're allowed in, trusting you have a valid one, and if you get caught, you get a fine (more like reality in the case of voting). As a comment seems to suggest, it's possible in North Carolina, merely *trying* can get you arrested. In other places, you'd just be required to confirm you're allowed to vote before moving further.
5,508
My ancestors Thomas and Jane (nee Anslow) Hitchcox, aged 56 and 57 respectively, immigrated to South Australia in late 1854 with six offspring: * Richmond (from Thomas' first marriage to Jane's deceased sister Elizabeth), aged 30 * Elizabeth (inexplicably recorded on the passenger list as Wife [to Richmond who was on the line above?]), aged 22 * Keturah, aged 21 * Joseph, aged 19 * Thomas, aged 17 * Robert, aged 14 The front cover of a book entitled "The Hitchcox Family from Wheaton Aston to Adelaide and a Pugnacious Apothecary" by Josephine Prescott, with additional material collected and inserted by Robert Brown, with assistance of family members, states that: > > They boarded the *Antelope*, which left from Liverpool on June 6 1854, > and arrived in Adelaide on December 21, 1854. > > > Inside that book on p.44 it states that: > > the *Antelope* had sailed from Liverpool, carrying Thomas Hitchcox, his > wife Jane, and all his children except Alithea and her family. The > ship called first at Sydney and Melbourne and arrived in Adelaide on > Thursday December 21, 1854. > > > The book appears to be a very well researched family history, with lots of personal letters and newspaper articles from around the time and yet I think the reference to the *Antelope* carrying them from Liverpool to Adelaide is wrong! The Victoria, Australia, Assisted and Unassisted Passenger Lists, 1839–1923 on Ancestry.com records that Thomas Hitchcox and his family departed Liverpool and arrived in Melbourne during December 1854 on the *Constance*! Below are two images from the Passenger List of the *Constance* which is dated 30 Aug 1854, and says that it is bound for Melbourne. Where this document was completed is not clear to me. ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/um4yD.jpg) ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQLCg.jpg) Consequently, I am confident that the Hitchcox family did arrive in Melbourne aboard the *Constance* but I have much confusion about the role the *Antelope* played in their emigration/immigration. Some thoughts I have are: * Maybe the *Antelope* carried them from Liverpool to another port where they changed ships to the *Constance* * Maybe the *Antelope* carried them from Melbourne to Adelaide * More than six and a half months to get from Liverpool to Melbourne seems excessive so perhaps there was a change of ship and slight delay in Melbourne or England * the date of 30 Aug 1854 on the above passenger list suggests to me that it was only around then that the *Constance* left England and a voyage time of just under four months seems more likely to me Does anyone know how I could learn more about the *Antelope* and its movements in the second half of 1854? The *Antelope* does appear to have been in Australian waters in [late 1853](http://members.iinet.net.au/~perthdps/shipping/mig-sa3.htm) (Dead Persons' Society of Perth, *Western Australia: Passenger Ships into South Australia*) and [very early 1854](http://mariners.records.nsw.gov.au/1854/01/5401.htm) (Mary-Anne Warner, *Mariners and ships in Australian Waters*).
2014/09/20
[ "https://genealogy.stackexchange.com/questions/5508", "https://genealogy.stackexchange.com", "https://genealogy.stackexchange.com/users/19/" ]
To gather more information about the operations of ships, establish their identity, just as you would for a person, and about the company which operated them. With ships, just like people, there can be more than one with the same name. You might search for the shipbuilder, the Master's name, the company who operated the ship, or the owner's name. All might yield different results, depending on what information was in the original documents. One possible line of inquiry is suggested by this posting from the RootsWeb Mailing list [CORNISH-GEN-L](http://archiver.rootsweb.ancestry.com/th/read/CORNISH-GEN/2005-03/1110328073), a transcription from the *West Briton* Friday 25th February, 1853: > > LIVERPOOL "GOLDEN" LINE OF PACKETS TO AUSTRALIA. For Melbourne. MILES > BARTON (new ship) 995 tons reg. 1,50 tons bur. To sail early in March. > > > MARTABAN (new ship) 850 tons reg. 1,300 tons bur. To follow. > > > IVANHOE 1,050 tons reg. 1,500 tons bur. To follow. > > > For Melbourne, Port Phillip, the splendid new clipper-built ship MILES > BARTON, William KELLY, Commander; A1 at Lloyds, 1,500 tons burthen. > This superb ship has been built, regardless of expense, expressly for > the Australian trade, by the well-known builders of the celebrated > ship "Constance." She is expected to prove the fastest vessel afloat. > Her cabins are fitted up in a most superior manner. The between-decks > are extremely lofty, and ventilated on the most improved principles. > The "Miles Barton" is a single-decked ship, and has an unusually clear > upper deck for the passengers to take exercise on, and which has been > proved to be absolutely essential to health on so long a voyage. The > fittings will be found to be of a novel and superior description, and > baths are provided on deck for the passengers. The dietary is > extremely liberal and great care will be used in the selection of the > provisions. She will carry an experienced Surgeon. Apply to MILLERS > and THOMPSON, 4 Tower Buildings West, Liverpool. The Steam-ship > "Antelope," will sail on the 5th of March, in connexion with the above > line. > > > If this references the same ships *Constance* and *Antelope* then it is possible that the Golden Line operated both, and research about the Golden Line ships in general might yield more information about the lengths of the voyages. There was another inquiry about the Golden Line on the RootsWeb Mailing list [MARINERS-L](http://archiver.rootsweb.ancestry.com/th/read/MARINERS/2005-04/1113241683) from a user who was researching the *Miles Barton*: > > Does sks have any information about the Liverpool "Golden Line" of > Australian packets, as noted below in the sample classified ads from > the London Times for 1854 & 1856? Were Pilkington & Wilson, who were, > I believe, the principals behind the start-up of the White Star Line, > the owners of the Golden Line in 1854? > > > (SKS = 'some kind soul') No one replied to his query, but in his post he gave his source for the newspaper listings as the Thomson Gale Digital Times database. His link is broken -- this appears to be the current location for the [London Times Archive at Gale](http://gdc.gale.com/products/the-times-digital-archive-1785-1985/). Other sources for ship list information include: * Peter Larson's site [Ozships: Australian Shipping on the net](http://www.ozships.net/ozships/) (a redesign and rebranding of his former site Convictions) which also has listings for a steamer Antelope from 1854 * [The Immigrant Ships Transcriber's Guild](http://immigrantships.net/index.html) (unfortunately, a search for 'Constance' will also yield many results for passengers with that name, so use the search results as a clue for other search terms) * Raymond J. Warren's blog [The Warren Register of Colonial Tall Ships](http://colonialtallshipsrayw1.blogspot.com/search?q=%22Antelope%22) has useful suggestions for how to find ship information, and has the following entries for ships named Antelope: > > * ‘ANTELOPE’ Built 1845. Wood Auxiliary screw steamer of 778 Tons. Built at Liverpool, England. Master: Captain Keen. Owned by Miller and > Co. She ran from Liverpool to Australia. > * ‘ANTELOPE’ Built 1856. Wood extreme clipper ship that was built as an Auxiliary dual funnel vessel in America. She was used in the > colonial passenger service bringing settlers to Australia and New > Zealand.[Passenger liner] > * ‘ANTELOPE’ Built 1873. Iron ship of 1306 Tons. Length: 198.3 ft. Breadth: 37.3 ft. Depth: 24 ft. Built at Belfast for Thomas > Peabody.[Passenger and General Carrier] > > > If the Antelope which arrived in December 1854 is one of these three, then it must be the first one (since the other two haven't been built yet). This seems to be the steamer which is referenced on the Ozships site. However, there is at least one other ship on OzShips with the same name, so it's not safe to assume that any listing of the ship Antelope is this one. To quote again the passage from the history book: > > The Antelope ... left from Liverpool on June 6 1854, > and arrived in Adelaide on December 21, 1854. > > > It is a good question to ask whether there is an arrival for The Antelope in Adelaide on 21 Dec 1854 and whether it actually left Liverpool on 6 June 1854. If you can find a passenger list, a brute-force walk-through might find evidence that is useful to you, e.g. lined-out entries that indicated your family intended to sail on this voyage but didn't actually board. Also, this may be less common for travel to Australia, but on the Trans-Atlantic routes, it was common for families to travel back and forth several times. The information which came down in my family listed both ships but the arrival dates were not accurate. Is it possible that some member of the family had more than one arrival, either before or after this voyage of the Constance, and the Antelope was involved? The Public Record Office Victoria has a searchable [Index to Outward Passengers to Interstate, UK, NZ and Foreign Ports 1852-1923](http://prov.vic.gov.au/index_search?searchid=42); searching for the Antelope and Dec 1854 results in 122 records matched with passengers bound for Liverpool. See their guide for links to other [digitised records and online indexes](http://prov.vic.gov.au/provguide-23). Many sites or record collections do not list interstate or intrastate departures, so your best bet may lie in searching newspaper archives e.g. on [Trove](http://trove.nla.gov.au/). Another approach would be to study the operations of Melbourne as a port, to see if people commonly transferred from one ship to another. This [overview of the history of shipping in Melbourne](http://www.emelbourne.net.au/biogs/EM01366b.htm), published by School of Historical Studies, Department of History, The University of Melbourne, gives context and includes some information about transit times. At the time of this writing, these sites yielded no results, but the links are included for future reference: * The Gjenvick-Gjønvik Archives has an index to [Steamship Lines](http://www.gjenvick.com/SteamshipLines/index.html#axzz3DsMzUf6a) which includes some shipping in the Pacific, but there is no entry for the Golden Line. * [South Australian Passenger Lists](http://www.familyhistorysa.info/shipping/passengerlists.html) (Barry Leadbeater) "Passenger lists for 1,323 ship voyages with 32,600 emigrant families arriving in SA (usually Port Adelaide) from Germany (Prussia) up to 1855 and UK & Ireland to 1850" -- a search of 'ship arrivals' for the ship "Antelope" yielded no results, but there are links to other resources and a bibliography there. See his page [South Australian Shipping & Migration Directory](http://www.familyhistorysa.info/shipping/) for resources for Adelaide arrivals. Disambiguation: see the section on ships in the article [Antelope (disambiguation)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antelope_%28disambiguation%29) which includes many other ships, including the [Antelope of Boston](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antelope_of_Boston) -- none of the ships in that article are the ship Antelope you are looking for, nor does it appear to have the three ships listed at Warren's blog. A search of the ISTG will turn up these other ships, especially the earlier [packet ship Antelope](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antelope_%28ship%29) which was lost in 1794.
The [answer from @JanMurphy](https://genealogy.stackexchange.com/a/5509/19) stimulated me to look harder, and provided some pointers in which direction to proceed. By doing that I found: 1. The [Ozships](http://www.ozships.net/ozships/) website records that the *Constance* arrived at Melbourne on 13 Dec 1854 which I think would fit with the family reaching Adelaide eight days later. 2. A South Australian Register article from 22 Dec 1854 (below) on [Trove](http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/49201831) recording the arrival on 21 Dec 1854 of the *Antelope*. I may have missed this in earlier less thorough searches of Trove because the surname is misspelled as Hitchcock, but all members of the family seem to be accounted for in the second cabin despite some other misspellings: * Messr Hitchcock = Thomas * Miss Jane = Jane * Miss Elizabeth = Elizabeth * Messr Richard = Richmond * Messr Horatio = Keturah (who was actually female and known as "Kitty") * Messr Joseph = Joseph * Messr Thomas = Thomas * Messr Robert = Robert ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y00AE.png) What I now think happened is: 1. They boarded the *Constance* on 30 Aug 1854 in Liverpool 2. The *Constance* arrived in Melbourne on 13 Dec 1854 3. They boarded the *Antelope* on 18 Dec 1854 in Melbourne 4. The *Antelope* arrived in Adelaide on 21 Dec 1854 The main remaining discrepancy seems to be why is the date they left Liverpool recorded in the book as 6 Jun 1854 when the Passenger List for the *Constance* has a more likely date (based on expected voyage duration) of 30 Aug 1854 recorded on it. --- The last discrepancy has just been cleared up. A re-read of two of the letters in the aforementioned book, both written by Thomas Hitchcox from his home in Wheaton Aston, Staffordshire, to his eldest son William (who had gone to live in South Australia three and a half years earlier) when discussing their upcoming voyage say: * on 1 Apr 1854 > > I should like it if we can be ready to start in August > > > * on 31 May 1854 > > I have thought to start in August if we can get ready by that time > > > I think it extremely unlikely that they would be boarding a ship to Australia six days after writing the second of the above letters, and a departure date of 30 Aug 1854 looks to fit the plan Thomas had both at the beginning of April and at the end of May 1854. I am now confident that they did not leave Liverpool aboard the Antelope on 6 Jun 1854, and with that "fact" discounted, the remainder of the timeline I have assembled for their migration now seems to fit. An earlier letter on 28 Sep 1853 made no mention of the family going to Adelaide, although it did say: > > We have heard of many lately being gone to Australia. > > > One last footnote to this story is that the *Antelope* was certainly not in Liverpool on 6 Jun 1854 because a website of [Mariners and ships in Australian waters](http://mariners.records.nsw.gov.au/1854/06/044ant.htm) records a ship with the same name, master and tonnage, travelling from Melbourne to Sydney only a fortnight later: > > ANTELOPE > > > OF LIVERPOOL, FRENCH, MASTER, BURTHEN 778 TONS > > > FROM THE PORT OF MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY, NEW SOUTH WALES, 19TH JUNE 1854 > > >
5,508
My ancestors Thomas and Jane (nee Anslow) Hitchcox, aged 56 and 57 respectively, immigrated to South Australia in late 1854 with six offspring: * Richmond (from Thomas' first marriage to Jane's deceased sister Elizabeth), aged 30 * Elizabeth (inexplicably recorded on the passenger list as Wife [to Richmond who was on the line above?]), aged 22 * Keturah, aged 21 * Joseph, aged 19 * Thomas, aged 17 * Robert, aged 14 The front cover of a book entitled "The Hitchcox Family from Wheaton Aston to Adelaide and a Pugnacious Apothecary" by Josephine Prescott, with additional material collected and inserted by Robert Brown, with assistance of family members, states that: > > They boarded the *Antelope*, which left from Liverpool on June 6 1854, > and arrived in Adelaide on December 21, 1854. > > > Inside that book on p.44 it states that: > > the *Antelope* had sailed from Liverpool, carrying Thomas Hitchcox, his > wife Jane, and all his children except Alithea and her family. The > ship called first at Sydney and Melbourne and arrived in Adelaide on > Thursday December 21, 1854. > > > The book appears to be a very well researched family history, with lots of personal letters and newspaper articles from around the time and yet I think the reference to the *Antelope* carrying them from Liverpool to Adelaide is wrong! The Victoria, Australia, Assisted and Unassisted Passenger Lists, 1839–1923 on Ancestry.com records that Thomas Hitchcox and his family departed Liverpool and arrived in Melbourne during December 1854 on the *Constance*! Below are two images from the Passenger List of the *Constance* which is dated 30 Aug 1854, and says that it is bound for Melbourne. Where this document was completed is not clear to me. ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/um4yD.jpg) ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQLCg.jpg) Consequently, I am confident that the Hitchcox family did arrive in Melbourne aboard the *Constance* but I have much confusion about the role the *Antelope* played in their emigration/immigration. Some thoughts I have are: * Maybe the *Antelope* carried them from Liverpool to another port where they changed ships to the *Constance* * Maybe the *Antelope* carried them from Melbourne to Adelaide * More than six and a half months to get from Liverpool to Melbourne seems excessive so perhaps there was a change of ship and slight delay in Melbourne or England * the date of 30 Aug 1854 on the above passenger list suggests to me that it was only around then that the *Constance* left England and a voyage time of just under four months seems more likely to me Does anyone know how I could learn more about the *Antelope* and its movements in the second half of 1854? The *Antelope* does appear to have been in Australian waters in [late 1853](http://members.iinet.net.au/~perthdps/shipping/mig-sa3.htm) (Dead Persons' Society of Perth, *Western Australia: Passenger Ships into South Australia*) and [very early 1854](http://mariners.records.nsw.gov.au/1854/01/5401.htm) (Mary-Anne Warner, *Mariners and ships in Australian Waters*).
2014/09/20
[ "https://genealogy.stackexchange.com/questions/5508", "https://genealogy.stackexchange.com", "https://genealogy.stackexchange.com/users/19/" ]
To gather more information about the operations of ships, establish their identity, just as you would for a person, and about the company which operated them. With ships, just like people, there can be more than one with the same name. You might search for the shipbuilder, the Master's name, the company who operated the ship, or the owner's name. All might yield different results, depending on what information was in the original documents. One possible line of inquiry is suggested by this posting from the RootsWeb Mailing list [CORNISH-GEN-L](http://archiver.rootsweb.ancestry.com/th/read/CORNISH-GEN/2005-03/1110328073), a transcription from the *West Briton* Friday 25th February, 1853: > > LIVERPOOL "GOLDEN" LINE OF PACKETS TO AUSTRALIA. For Melbourne. MILES > BARTON (new ship) 995 tons reg. 1,50 tons bur. To sail early in March. > > > MARTABAN (new ship) 850 tons reg. 1,300 tons bur. To follow. > > > IVANHOE 1,050 tons reg. 1,500 tons bur. To follow. > > > For Melbourne, Port Phillip, the splendid new clipper-built ship MILES > BARTON, William KELLY, Commander; A1 at Lloyds, 1,500 tons burthen. > This superb ship has been built, regardless of expense, expressly for > the Australian trade, by the well-known builders of the celebrated > ship "Constance." She is expected to prove the fastest vessel afloat. > Her cabins are fitted up in a most superior manner. The between-decks > are extremely lofty, and ventilated on the most improved principles. > The "Miles Barton" is a single-decked ship, and has an unusually clear > upper deck for the passengers to take exercise on, and which has been > proved to be absolutely essential to health on so long a voyage. The > fittings will be found to be of a novel and superior description, and > baths are provided on deck for the passengers. The dietary is > extremely liberal and great care will be used in the selection of the > provisions. She will carry an experienced Surgeon. Apply to MILLERS > and THOMPSON, 4 Tower Buildings West, Liverpool. The Steam-ship > "Antelope," will sail on the 5th of March, in connexion with the above > line. > > > If this references the same ships *Constance* and *Antelope* then it is possible that the Golden Line operated both, and research about the Golden Line ships in general might yield more information about the lengths of the voyages. There was another inquiry about the Golden Line on the RootsWeb Mailing list [MARINERS-L](http://archiver.rootsweb.ancestry.com/th/read/MARINERS/2005-04/1113241683) from a user who was researching the *Miles Barton*: > > Does sks have any information about the Liverpool "Golden Line" of > Australian packets, as noted below in the sample classified ads from > the London Times for 1854 & 1856? Were Pilkington & Wilson, who were, > I believe, the principals behind the start-up of the White Star Line, > the owners of the Golden Line in 1854? > > > (SKS = 'some kind soul') No one replied to his query, but in his post he gave his source for the newspaper listings as the Thomson Gale Digital Times database. His link is broken -- this appears to be the current location for the [London Times Archive at Gale](http://gdc.gale.com/products/the-times-digital-archive-1785-1985/). Other sources for ship list information include: * Peter Larson's site [Ozships: Australian Shipping on the net](http://www.ozships.net/ozships/) (a redesign and rebranding of his former site Convictions) which also has listings for a steamer Antelope from 1854 * [The Immigrant Ships Transcriber's Guild](http://immigrantships.net/index.html) (unfortunately, a search for 'Constance' will also yield many results for passengers with that name, so use the search results as a clue for other search terms) * Raymond J. Warren's blog [The Warren Register of Colonial Tall Ships](http://colonialtallshipsrayw1.blogspot.com/search?q=%22Antelope%22) has useful suggestions for how to find ship information, and has the following entries for ships named Antelope: > > * ‘ANTELOPE’ Built 1845. Wood Auxiliary screw steamer of 778 Tons. Built at Liverpool, England. Master: Captain Keen. Owned by Miller and > Co. She ran from Liverpool to Australia. > * ‘ANTELOPE’ Built 1856. Wood extreme clipper ship that was built as an Auxiliary dual funnel vessel in America. She was used in the > colonial passenger service bringing settlers to Australia and New > Zealand.[Passenger liner] > * ‘ANTELOPE’ Built 1873. Iron ship of 1306 Tons. Length: 198.3 ft. Breadth: 37.3 ft. Depth: 24 ft. Built at Belfast for Thomas > Peabody.[Passenger and General Carrier] > > > If the Antelope which arrived in December 1854 is one of these three, then it must be the first one (since the other two haven't been built yet). This seems to be the steamer which is referenced on the Ozships site. However, there is at least one other ship on OzShips with the same name, so it's not safe to assume that any listing of the ship Antelope is this one. To quote again the passage from the history book: > > The Antelope ... left from Liverpool on June 6 1854, > and arrived in Adelaide on December 21, 1854. > > > It is a good question to ask whether there is an arrival for The Antelope in Adelaide on 21 Dec 1854 and whether it actually left Liverpool on 6 June 1854. If you can find a passenger list, a brute-force walk-through might find evidence that is useful to you, e.g. lined-out entries that indicated your family intended to sail on this voyage but didn't actually board. Also, this may be less common for travel to Australia, but on the Trans-Atlantic routes, it was common for families to travel back and forth several times. The information which came down in my family listed both ships but the arrival dates were not accurate. Is it possible that some member of the family had more than one arrival, either before or after this voyage of the Constance, and the Antelope was involved? The Public Record Office Victoria has a searchable [Index to Outward Passengers to Interstate, UK, NZ and Foreign Ports 1852-1923](http://prov.vic.gov.au/index_search?searchid=42); searching for the Antelope and Dec 1854 results in 122 records matched with passengers bound for Liverpool. See their guide for links to other [digitised records and online indexes](http://prov.vic.gov.au/provguide-23). Many sites or record collections do not list interstate or intrastate departures, so your best bet may lie in searching newspaper archives e.g. on [Trove](http://trove.nla.gov.au/). Another approach would be to study the operations of Melbourne as a port, to see if people commonly transferred from one ship to another. This [overview of the history of shipping in Melbourne](http://www.emelbourne.net.au/biogs/EM01366b.htm), published by School of Historical Studies, Department of History, The University of Melbourne, gives context and includes some information about transit times. At the time of this writing, these sites yielded no results, but the links are included for future reference: * The Gjenvick-Gjønvik Archives has an index to [Steamship Lines](http://www.gjenvick.com/SteamshipLines/index.html#axzz3DsMzUf6a) which includes some shipping in the Pacific, but there is no entry for the Golden Line. * [South Australian Passenger Lists](http://www.familyhistorysa.info/shipping/passengerlists.html) (Barry Leadbeater) "Passenger lists for 1,323 ship voyages with 32,600 emigrant families arriving in SA (usually Port Adelaide) from Germany (Prussia) up to 1855 and UK & Ireland to 1850" -- a search of 'ship arrivals' for the ship "Antelope" yielded no results, but there are links to other resources and a bibliography there. See his page [South Australian Shipping & Migration Directory](http://www.familyhistorysa.info/shipping/) for resources for Adelaide arrivals. Disambiguation: see the section on ships in the article [Antelope (disambiguation)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antelope_%28disambiguation%29) which includes many other ships, including the [Antelope of Boston](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antelope_of_Boston) -- none of the ships in that article are the ship Antelope you are looking for, nor does it appear to have the three ships listed at Warren's blog. A search of the ISTG will turn up these other ships, especially the earlier [packet ship Antelope](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antelope_%28ship%29) which was lost in 1794.
I have found the following information about the Ship Constance and also the Antelope. As I can see it this will tie in all your information and solve some of your problems. Shipping Gazette and Sydney General Trade List (NSW : 1844 - 1860), Monday 11 December 1854, page 243 : Heading Wonga Wonga & Telegraph. Vessels advertised at Boston on 24th August, for Melbourne ; Edith Rose, to sail 31st August ; Constance, 10th September ; and Flying-Scud, 20th September. [Age (Melbourne, Vic. : 1854 - 1954), Thursday 14 December 1854, page 4](http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/154850195) SHIPPING INTELLIGENCE. ARRIVED. December 13.—Sultana, ship, 1316 tons, David Taylor, from Liverpool 16th September, with 381 passengers, and general cargo. Caldwell, Train and Co., agents. December 13.—Constance, ship, 1106 tons, William Christian, from Liverpool 30th August, with 311 passengers. PROJECTED DEPARTURES. FOR ADELAIDE.—Albion, early ; Willing Lass, Louisa, Emily, Albion, Antelope, December 16; Clipper, early; Caroline, Valentine Hellicar, early : Havilah, 20th. [Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), Monday 18 December 1854, page 4](http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/154850960) CLEARED OUT. December 16.-Antelope, steamship, 778 tons, Alexander Price French, for Liverpool via Adelaide, King George's Sound, Cape of Good Hope, and Madeira, with one hundred and fourteen passengers. Crawford Maine, agent. The scan you have of the 'Constance' probably is when it arrived in Boston from Liverpool. The paper information can be found on the Trove website for Australian Newspapers <http://trove.nla.gov.au/>
5,508
My ancestors Thomas and Jane (nee Anslow) Hitchcox, aged 56 and 57 respectively, immigrated to South Australia in late 1854 with six offspring: * Richmond (from Thomas' first marriage to Jane's deceased sister Elizabeth), aged 30 * Elizabeth (inexplicably recorded on the passenger list as Wife [to Richmond who was on the line above?]), aged 22 * Keturah, aged 21 * Joseph, aged 19 * Thomas, aged 17 * Robert, aged 14 The front cover of a book entitled "The Hitchcox Family from Wheaton Aston to Adelaide and a Pugnacious Apothecary" by Josephine Prescott, with additional material collected and inserted by Robert Brown, with assistance of family members, states that: > > They boarded the *Antelope*, which left from Liverpool on June 6 1854, > and arrived in Adelaide on December 21, 1854. > > > Inside that book on p.44 it states that: > > the *Antelope* had sailed from Liverpool, carrying Thomas Hitchcox, his > wife Jane, and all his children except Alithea and her family. The > ship called first at Sydney and Melbourne and arrived in Adelaide on > Thursday December 21, 1854. > > > The book appears to be a very well researched family history, with lots of personal letters and newspaper articles from around the time and yet I think the reference to the *Antelope* carrying them from Liverpool to Adelaide is wrong! The Victoria, Australia, Assisted and Unassisted Passenger Lists, 1839–1923 on Ancestry.com records that Thomas Hitchcox and his family departed Liverpool and arrived in Melbourne during December 1854 on the *Constance*! Below are two images from the Passenger List of the *Constance* which is dated 30 Aug 1854, and says that it is bound for Melbourne. Where this document was completed is not clear to me. ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/um4yD.jpg) ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQLCg.jpg) Consequently, I am confident that the Hitchcox family did arrive in Melbourne aboard the *Constance* but I have much confusion about the role the *Antelope* played in their emigration/immigration. Some thoughts I have are: * Maybe the *Antelope* carried them from Liverpool to another port where they changed ships to the *Constance* * Maybe the *Antelope* carried them from Melbourne to Adelaide * More than six and a half months to get from Liverpool to Melbourne seems excessive so perhaps there was a change of ship and slight delay in Melbourne or England * the date of 30 Aug 1854 on the above passenger list suggests to me that it was only around then that the *Constance* left England and a voyage time of just under four months seems more likely to me Does anyone know how I could learn more about the *Antelope* and its movements in the second half of 1854? The *Antelope* does appear to have been in Australian waters in [late 1853](http://members.iinet.net.au/~perthdps/shipping/mig-sa3.htm) (Dead Persons' Society of Perth, *Western Australia: Passenger Ships into South Australia*) and [very early 1854](http://mariners.records.nsw.gov.au/1854/01/5401.htm) (Mary-Anne Warner, *Mariners and ships in Australian Waters*).
2014/09/20
[ "https://genealogy.stackexchange.com/questions/5508", "https://genealogy.stackexchange.com", "https://genealogy.stackexchange.com/users/19/" ]
I have found the following information about the Ship Constance and also the Antelope. As I can see it this will tie in all your information and solve some of your problems. Shipping Gazette and Sydney General Trade List (NSW : 1844 - 1860), Monday 11 December 1854, page 243 : Heading Wonga Wonga & Telegraph. Vessels advertised at Boston on 24th August, for Melbourne ; Edith Rose, to sail 31st August ; Constance, 10th September ; and Flying-Scud, 20th September. [Age (Melbourne, Vic. : 1854 - 1954), Thursday 14 December 1854, page 4](http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/154850195) SHIPPING INTELLIGENCE. ARRIVED. December 13.—Sultana, ship, 1316 tons, David Taylor, from Liverpool 16th September, with 381 passengers, and general cargo. Caldwell, Train and Co., agents. December 13.—Constance, ship, 1106 tons, William Christian, from Liverpool 30th August, with 311 passengers. PROJECTED DEPARTURES. FOR ADELAIDE.—Albion, early ; Willing Lass, Louisa, Emily, Albion, Antelope, December 16; Clipper, early; Caroline, Valentine Hellicar, early : Havilah, 20th. [Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), Monday 18 December 1854, page 4](http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/154850960) CLEARED OUT. December 16.-Antelope, steamship, 778 tons, Alexander Price French, for Liverpool via Adelaide, King George's Sound, Cape of Good Hope, and Madeira, with one hundred and fourteen passengers. Crawford Maine, agent. The scan you have of the 'Constance' probably is when it arrived in Boston from Liverpool. The paper information can be found on the Trove website for Australian Newspapers <http://trove.nla.gov.au/>
The [answer from @JanMurphy](https://genealogy.stackexchange.com/a/5509/19) stimulated me to look harder, and provided some pointers in which direction to proceed. By doing that I found: 1. The [Ozships](http://www.ozships.net/ozships/) website records that the *Constance* arrived at Melbourne on 13 Dec 1854 which I think would fit with the family reaching Adelaide eight days later. 2. A South Australian Register article from 22 Dec 1854 (below) on [Trove](http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/49201831) recording the arrival on 21 Dec 1854 of the *Antelope*. I may have missed this in earlier less thorough searches of Trove because the surname is misspelled as Hitchcock, but all members of the family seem to be accounted for in the second cabin despite some other misspellings: * Messr Hitchcock = Thomas * Miss Jane = Jane * Miss Elizabeth = Elizabeth * Messr Richard = Richmond * Messr Horatio = Keturah (who was actually female and known as "Kitty") * Messr Joseph = Joseph * Messr Thomas = Thomas * Messr Robert = Robert ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y00AE.png) What I now think happened is: 1. They boarded the *Constance* on 30 Aug 1854 in Liverpool 2. The *Constance* arrived in Melbourne on 13 Dec 1854 3. They boarded the *Antelope* on 18 Dec 1854 in Melbourne 4. The *Antelope* arrived in Adelaide on 21 Dec 1854 The main remaining discrepancy seems to be why is the date they left Liverpool recorded in the book as 6 Jun 1854 when the Passenger List for the *Constance* has a more likely date (based on expected voyage duration) of 30 Aug 1854 recorded on it. --- The last discrepancy has just been cleared up. A re-read of two of the letters in the aforementioned book, both written by Thomas Hitchcox from his home in Wheaton Aston, Staffordshire, to his eldest son William (who had gone to live in South Australia three and a half years earlier) when discussing their upcoming voyage say: * on 1 Apr 1854 > > I should like it if we can be ready to start in August > > > * on 31 May 1854 > > I have thought to start in August if we can get ready by that time > > > I think it extremely unlikely that they would be boarding a ship to Australia six days after writing the second of the above letters, and a departure date of 30 Aug 1854 looks to fit the plan Thomas had both at the beginning of April and at the end of May 1854. I am now confident that they did not leave Liverpool aboard the Antelope on 6 Jun 1854, and with that "fact" discounted, the remainder of the timeline I have assembled for their migration now seems to fit. An earlier letter on 28 Sep 1853 made no mention of the family going to Adelaide, although it did say: > > We have heard of many lately being gone to Australia. > > > One last footnote to this story is that the *Antelope* was certainly not in Liverpool on 6 Jun 1854 because a website of [Mariners and ships in Australian waters](http://mariners.records.nsw.gov.au/1854/06/044ant.htm) records a ship with the same name, master and tonnage, travelling from Melbourne to Sydney only a fortnight later: > > ANTELOPE > > > OF LIVERPOOL, FRENCH, MASTER, BURTHEN 778 TONS > > > FROM THE PORT OF MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY, NEW SOUTH WALES, 19TH JUNE 1854 > > >
59
Sorry, I have no clue how to do what you're suggesting. I didn't realize that when someone edited a question the questioner did anything. Help please
2012/10/10
[ "https://genealogy.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/59", "https://genealogy.meta.stackexchange.com", "https://genealogy.meta.stackexchange.com/users/41/" ]
What happens when you click the "please review it" link differs depending on the reputation of the editor. If the editor has high enough reputation the edit is already made, you can look at it to see what it was. If need be you can make another edit to make additional changes. If the editor is lower in reputation then you will be given a screen to see the proposed edit. If you agree with the edit you can approve it and the edit will be made.
From [Review](https://genealogy.stackexchange.com/review/) > > You need at least 500 reputation to review Suggested Edits. > > > Once you hit 500 reputation in the private beta, or 1000 reputation in the public beta, you'll be able to approve suggested edits in the review queue, or by clicking the edit link on the post. In other words, you can vote to approve *any* suggested edit on questions and answers, even on posts that aren't your own. Editing is a big part of making Stack Exchange Q&A great, and it's been known to get 0 voted questions and answers many more upvotes than they would otherwise and help waay more people find answers to their questions. If a suggested edit is pending on a post, the edit link will appear like this if no one has yet voted: > > edit(0) > > > Click the link to view the suggested edit.
708,937
I am building a web application which will generate XML from a database based on a specific schema and depending on certain input parameters (such as dates or search terms) carried on a querystring. Is the best approach to write a web service which returns the required XML or to write an ashx handler that outputs the XML? Am I able to specify the XML exactly as I want it in each instance?
2009/04/02
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/708937", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/77301/" ]
Consider writing a REST-style WCF service using [WebHttpBinding](http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/system.servicemodel.webhttpbinding.aspx).
I've found the fastest way to get started with doing this sort of thing, particularly if its a simple REST type service - eg. using a simple HTTP GET - is to use ASP.MVC. As I'm sure you've read, this gives you complete control over the HTML, but it also means you get complete control over whether its even HTML you return. You don't even need a view, you can just return a ContentResult. Its a bit of a "waste" of MVC, but its a very fast way to get the ball rolling. I used a similar approach, but in the end formalized it with my own HttpHandler and RouteHandler, which basically allow me to basically map a URL to a chunk of code, with almost no extra setup.
708,937
I am building a web application which will generate XML from a database based on a specific schema and depending on certain input parameters (such as dates or search terms) carried on a querystring. Is the best approach to write a web service which returns the required XML or to write an ashx handler that outputs the XML? Am I able to specify the XML exactly as I want it in each instance?
2009/04/02
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/708937", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/77301/" ]
Consider writing a REST-style WCF service using [WebHttpBinding](http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/system.servicemodel.webhttpbinding.aspx).
Leading on from Ch00k's answer the following blog (no it's not mine :-)) has his findings on using ASP.MVC and making a Restful web service to return XML, JSON etc. Maybe this would be a useful read for you ... [Blog link](http://shouldersofgiants.co.uk/blog/default.aspx). The main thing to remember is that you want to return the xml string not an actual .net XmlDocument type (I may have mis understood the point in the question) as otherwise it's harder to consume it from other platforms. Hope this helps :-)
708,937
I am building a web application which will generate XML from a database based on a specific schema and depending on certain input parameters (such as dates or search terms) carried on a querystring. Is the best approach to write a web service which returns the required XML or to write an ashx handler that outputs the XML? Am I able to specify the XML exactly as I want it in each instance?
2009/04/02
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/708937", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/77301/" ]
I would do ashx in a situation like this. From your description, it sounds like a single search facility, a single table (or limited group of tables in a single database) and a relatively limited scope. All the MVC stuff is probably overkill. Don't over-engineer it. Just create a class that implements IHttpHandler (or just do a generic handler if you're in Visual Studio 2005 or higher), parse the query string, either create a dynamic SQL string or pass the parameters to a stored procedure, and then use an XmlTextWriter to create the output. You can point the XmlTextWriter either to the output stream of the response or to a memory stream. I use the memory stream approach because it gives me better error handling options. Then set the content type to application/xml and stream the results. I like this approach because it's easy to understand, easy to implement, easy to maintain, and gives you complete control. The downsides are that it's tightly bound to the database and may be less flexible than one of the web service framework based approaches if your application's scope increases over time.
I've found the fastest way to get started with doing this sort of thing, particularly if its a simple REST type service - eg. using a simple HTTP GET - is to use ASP.MVC. As I'm sure you've read, this gives you complete control over the HTML, but it also means you get complete control over whether its even HTML you return. You don't even need a view, you can just return a ContentResult. Its a bit of a "waste" of MVC, but its a very fast way to get the ball rolling. I used a similar approach, but in the end formalized it with my own HttpHandler and RouteHandler, which basically allow me to basically map a URL to a chunk of code, with almost no extra setup.
708,937
I am building a web application which will generate XML from a database based on a specific schema and depending on certain input parameters (such as dates or search terms) carried on a querystring. Is the best approach to write a web service which returns the required XML or to write an ashx handler that outputs the XML? Am I able to specify the XML exactly as I want it in each instance?
2009/04/02
[ "https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/708937", "https://Stackoverflow.com", "https://Stackoverflow.com/users/77301/" ]
I would do ashx in a situation like this. From your description, it sounds like a single search facility, a single table (or limited group of tables in a single database) and a relatively limited scope. All the MVC stuff is probably overkill. Don't over-engineer it. Just create a class that implements IHttpHandler (or just do a generic handler if you're in Visual Studio 2005 or higher), parse the query string, either create a dynamic SQL string or pass the parameters to a stored procedure, and then use an XmlTextWriter to create the output. You can point the XmlTextWriter either to the output stream of the response or to a memory stream. I use the memory stream approach because it gives me better error handling options. Then set the content type to application/xml and stream the results. I like this approach because it's easy to understand, easy to implement, easy to maintain, and gives you complete control. The downsides are that it's tightly bound to the database and may be less flexible than one of the web service framework based approaches if your application's scope increases over time.
Leading on from Ch00k's answer the following blog (no it's not mine :-)) has his findings on using ASP.MVC and making a Restful web service to return XML, JSON etc. Maybe this would be a useful read for you ... [Blog link](http://shouldersofgiants.co.uk/blog/default.aspx). The main thing to remember is that you want to return the xml string not an actual .net XmlDocument type (I may have mis understood the point in the question) as otherwise it's harder to consume it from other platforms. Hope this helps :-)
3,469
I am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque app to look at my fuel economy and see that it shows a whopping 37 MPG for my Mazda 6, 2005 (2.3 Automatic). This seems fishy as some random googling shows the US Gov rates it at less at around 23. Anyone else had some experience with the torque app? can you confirm that its in accurate? Also where does the inaccuracy lie, the ECU or the App?
2012/05/10
[ "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3469", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/1757/" ]
I can't speak to the Torque app, but in my experience the US Gov ratings are typically quite a bit lower than what you can expect to get in actual *normal* driving (Gov ratings seem to be based around someone that does 15mph+ over the speed limit all the time, launches from every stop light, does full-throttle passing, and doesn't see red lights until they have to stand on the brakes to make them). So, it's not entirely impossible, but you're getting even better indicated than I would expect given that. Definitely time to compare with actual measurements.
i am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque too. it shows me 22 trip mpg on 4.8 chevy express cargo van. I don't think it's real. this number stays the same no matter how I drive - highways or stop-n-go city traffic.
3,469
I am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque app to look at my fuel economy and see that it shows a whopping 37 MPG for my Mazda 6, 2005 (2.3 Automatic). This seems fishy as some random googling shows the US Gov rates it at less at around 23. Anyone else had some experience with the torque app? can you confirm that its in accurate? Also where does the inaccuracy lie, the ECU or the App?
2012/05/10
[ "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3469", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/1757/" ]
I can't speak to the Torque app, but in my experience the US Gov ratings are typically quite a bit lower than what you can expect to get in actual *normal* driving (Gov ratings seem to be based around someone that does 15mph+ over the speed limit all the time, launches from every stop light, does full-throttle passing, and doesn't see red lights until they have to stand on the brakes to make them). So, it's not entirely impossible, but you're getting even better indicated than I would expect given that. Definitely time to compare with actual measurements.
Just measure your actual MPG by filling your tank all the way, then divide how many miles you drive until the next fill up by the number of gallons of said fill up. My mileage was off with a similar setup because I had larger aftermarket rims and tires, which means the car travels a longer distance for each rotation. Even a different profile tire can make a difference, although your discrepancy seems quite large. If you do have a different tire diameter, you should be able to adjust this in the app.
3,469
I am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque app to look at my fuel economy and see that it shows a whopping 37 MPG for my Mazda 6, 2005 (2.3 Automatic). This seems fishy as some random googling shows the US Gov rates it at less at around 23. Anyone else had some experience with the torque app? can you confirm that its in accurate? Also where does the inaccuracy lie, the ECU or the App?
2012/05/10
[ "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3469", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/1757/" ]
I can't speak to the Torque app, but in my experience the US Gov ratings are typically quite a bit lower than what you can expect to get in actual *normal* driving (Gov ratings seem to be based around someone that does 15mph+ over the speed limit all the time, launches from every stop light, does full-throttle passing, and doesn't see red lights until they have to stand on the brakes to make them). So, it's not entirely impossible, but you're getting even better indicated than I would expect given that. Definitely time to compare with actual measurements.
This is an old question, but as someone already gave an answer yesterday, here I go... My car doesn't have a milage display, and it also doesn't communicate any information about its current fuel consumption via OBD. (I also don't know if this is foreseen in the generic part of OBD in general.) It seems, the app "Torque" takes the RPM, the intake air temperature, intake air pressure (all available via OBD) and the displacement (entered by the user) to calculate the air flow through the motor. Assuming a perfect air/gas mixture, the amount of fuel that could be burned is derived, and with the speed via OBD/GPS, the current milage is calculated. However, this milage is not always correct. Driving downhill, the current consumption should be zero due to fuel cut-off, but the app shows a significant number. Pressing the clutch, fuel has to be burnt to keep the motor running, which leads to a very low consumption. Instead, the consumption shown by the app decreases. This leads to the conclusion that the app doesn't know anything about fuel cut-off. It just knows how much air is going through the motor and thinks the consumption must be higher at the higher RPM. Another scenario one can imagine is that the app doesn't display the higher consumption shortly after starting a cold engine. I don't have experience with this app together with other cars, but it seems it uses the most suitable sensor data. And when it's not available, it tries to derive this data from other sensor data. But this could lead to incorrect results. (Yet, the app does its best to display the milage)
3,469
I am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque app to look at my fuel economy and see that it shows a whopping 37 MPG for my Mazda 6, 2005 (2.3 Automatic). This seems fishy as some random googling shows the US Gov rates it at less at around 23. Anyone else had some experience with the torque app? can you confirm that its in accurate? Also where does the inaccuracy lie, the ECU or the App?
2012/05/10
[ "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3469", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/1757/" ]
I can't speak to the Torque app, but in my experience the US Gov ratings are typically quite a bit lower than what you can expect to get in actual *normal* driving (Gov ratings seem to be based around someone that does 15mph+ over the speed limit all the time, launches from every stop light, does full-throttle passing, and doesn't see red lights until they have to stand on the brakes to make them). So, it's not entirely impossible, but you're getting even better indicated than I would expect given that. Definitely time to compare with actual measurements.
I've been using the torque App for the past 4 months in a Chevrolet Spark and the Mileage shown was 36 MPG In highway when i told this to my Mechanic he said that it should definitely give more so i Filled my Tank and drove to a nearby city and then found out that it gave around 48 MPG. So I'm also confused why The Mileage shown in Torque App isn't correct . I'm also thinking that this could be because it takes the reading from the sensor data.
3,469
I am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque app to look at my fuel economy and see that it shows a whopping 37 MPG for my Mazda 6, 2005 (2.3 Automatic). This seems fishy as some random googling shows the US Gov rates it at less at around 23. Anyone else had some experience with the torque app? can you confirm that its in accurate? Also where does the inaccuracy lie, the ECU or the App?
2012/05/10
[ "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3469", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/1757/" ]
Just measure your actual MPG by filling your tank all the way, then divide how many miles you drive until the next fill up by the number of gallons of said fill up. My mileage was off with a similar setup because I had larger aftermarket rims and tires, which means the car travels a longer distance for each rotation. Even a different profile tire can make a difference, although your discrepancy seems quite large. If you do have a different tire diameter, you should be able to adjust this in the app.
i am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque too. it shows me 22 trip mpg on 4.8 chevy express cargo van. I don't think it's real. this number stays the same no matter how I drive - highways or stop-n-go city traffic.
3,469
I am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque app to look at my fuel economy and see that it shows a whopping 37 MPG for my Mazda 6, 2005 (2.3 Automatic). This seems fishy as some random googling shows the US Gov rates it at less at around 23. Anyone else had some experience with the torque app? can you confirm that its in accurate? Also where does the inaccuracy lie, the ECU or the App?
2012/05/10
[ "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3469", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/1757/" ]
This is an old question, but as someone already gave an answer yesterday, here I go... My car doesn't have a milage display, and it also doesn't communicate any information about its current fuel consumption via OBD. (I also don't know if this is foreseen in the generic part of OBD in general.) It seems, the app "Torque" takes the RPM, the intake air temperature, intake air pressure (all available via OBD) and the displacement (entered by the user) to calculate the air flow through the motor. Assuming a perfect air/gas mixture, the amount of fuel that could be burned is derived, and with the speed via OBD/GPS, the current milage is calculated. However, this milage is not always correct. Driving downhill, the current consumption should be zero due to fuel cut-off, but the app shows a significant number. Pressing the clutch, fuel has to be burnt to keep the motor running, which leads to a very low consumption. Instead, the consumption shown by the app decreases. This leads to the conclusion that the app doesn't know anything about fuel cut-off. It just knows how much air is going through the motor and thinks the consumption must be higher at the higher RPM. Another scenario one can imagine is that the app doesn't display the higher consumption shortly after starting a cold engine. I don't have experience with this app together with other cars, but it seems it uses the most suitable sensor data. And when it's not available, it tries to derive this data from other sensor data. But this could lead to incorrect results. (Yet, the app does its best to display the milage)
i am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque too. it shows me 22 trip mpg on 4.8 chevy express cargo van. I don't think it's real. this number stays the same no matter how I drive - highways or stop-n-go city traffic.
3,469
I am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque app to look at my fuel economy and see that it shows a whopping 37 MPG for my Mazda 6, 2005 (2.3 Automatic). This seems fishy as some random googling shows the US Gov rates it at less at around 23. Anyone else had some experience with the torque app? can you confirm that its in accurate? Also where does the inaccuracy lie, the ECU or the App?
2012/05/10
[ "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3469", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/1757/" ]
I've been using the torque App for the past 4 months in a Chevrolet Spark and the Mileage shown was 36 MPG In highway when i told this to my Mechanic he said that it should definitely give more so i Filled my Tank and drove to a nearby city and then found out that it gave around 48 MPG. So I'm also confused why The Mileage shown in Torque App isn't correct . I'm also thinking that this could be because it takes the reading from the sensor data.
i am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque too. it shows me 22 trip mpg on 4.8 chevy express cargo van. I don't think it's real. this number stays the same no matter how I drive - highways or stop-n-go city traffic.
3,469
I am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque app to look at my fuel economy and see that it shows a whopping 37 MPG for my Mazda 6, 2005 (2.3 Automatic). This seems fishy as some random googling shows the US Gov rates it at less at around 23. Anyone else had some experience with the torque app? can you confirm that its in accurate? Also where does the inaccuracy lie, the ECU or the App?
2012/05/10
[ "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3469", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/1757/" ]
Just measure your actual MPG by filling your tank all the way, then divide how many miles you drive until the next fill up by the number of gallons of said fill up. My mileage was off with a similar setup because I had larger aftermarket rims and tires, which means the car travels a longer distance for each rotation. Even a different profile tire can make a difference, although your discrepancy seems quite large. If you do have a different tire diameter, you should be able to adjust this in the app.
This is an old question, but as someone already gave an answer yesterday, here I go... My car doesn't have a milage display, and it also doesn't communicate any information about its current fuel consumption via OBD. (I also don't know if this is foreseen in the generic part of OBD in general.) It seems, the app "Torque" takes the RPM, the intake air temperature, intake air pressure (all available via OBD) and the displacement (entered by the user) to calculate the air flow through the motor. Assuming a perfect air/gas mixture, the amount of fuel that could be burned is derived, and with the speed via OBD/GPS, the current milage is calculated. However, this milage is not always correct. Driving downhill, the current consumption should be zero due to fuel cut-off, but the app shows a significant number. Pressing the clutch, fuel has to be burnt to keep the motor running, which leads to a very low consumption. Instead, the consumption shown by the app decreases. This leads to the conclusion that the app doesn't know anything about fuel cut-off. It just knows how much air is going through the motor and thinks the consumption must be higher at the higher RPM. Another scenario one can imagine is that the app doesn't display the higher consumption shortly after starting a cold engine. I don't have experience with this app together with other cars, but it seems it uses the most suitable sensor data. And when it's not available, it tries to derive this data from other sensor data. But this could lead to incorrect results. (Yet, the app does its best to display the milage)
3,469
I am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque app to look at my fuel economy and see that it shows a whopping 37 MPG for my Mazda 6, 2005 (2.3 Automatic). This seems fishy as some random googling shows the US Gov rates it at less at around 23. Anyone else had some experience with the torque app? can you confirm that its in accurate? Also where does the inaccuracy lie, the ECU or the App?
2012/05/10
[ "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3469", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/1757/" ]
Just measure your actual MPG by filling your tank all the way, then divide how many miles you drive until the next fill up by the number of gallons of said fill up. My mileage was off with a similar setup because I had larger aftermarket rims and tires, which means the car travels a longer distance for each rotation. Even a different profile tire can make a difference, although your discrepancy seems quite large. If you do have a different tire diameter, you should be able to adjust this in the app.
I've been using the torque App for the past 4 months in a Chevrolet Spark and the Mileage shown was 36 MPG In highway when i told this to my Mechanic he said that it should definitely give more so i Filled my Tank and drove to a nearby city and then found out that it gave around 48 MPG. So I'm also confused why The Mileage shown in Torque App isn't correct . I'm also thinking that this could be because it takes the reading from the sensor data.
3,469
I am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque app to look at my fuel economy and see that it shows a whopping 37 MPG for my Mazda 6, 2005 (2.3 Automatic). This seems fishy as some random googling shows the US Gov rates it at less at around 23. Anyone else had some experience with the torque app? can you confirm that its in accurate? Also where does the inaccuracy lie, the ECU or the App?
2012/05/10
[ "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3469", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com", "https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/1757/" ]
This is an old question, but as someone already gave an answer yesterday, here I go... My car doesn't have a milage display, and it also doesn't communicate any information about its current fuel consumption via OBD. (I also don't know if this is foreseen in the generic part of OBD in general.) It seems, the app "Torque" takes the RPM, the intake air temperature, intake air pressure (all available via OBD) and the displacement (entered by the user) to calculate the air flow through the motor. Assuming a perfect air/gas mixture, the amount of fuel that could be burned is derived, and with the speed via OBD/GPS, the current milage is calculated. However, this milage is not always correct. Driving downhill, the current consumption should be zero due to fuel cut-off, but the app shows a significant number. Pressing the clutch, fuel has to be burnt to keep the motor running, which leads to a very low consumption. Instead, the consumption shown by the app decreases. This leads to the conclusion that the app doesn't know anything about fuel cut-off. It just knows how much air is going through the motor and thinks the consumption must be higher at the higher RPM. Another scenario one can imagine is that the app doesn't display the higher consumption shortly after starting a cold engine. I don't have experience with this app together with other cars, but it seems it uses the most suitable sensor data. And when it's not available, it tries to derive this data from other sensor data. But this could lead to incorrect results. (Yet, the app does its best to display the milage)
I've been using the torque App for the past 4 months in a Chevrolet Spark and the Mileage shown was 36 MPG In highway when i told this to my Mechanic he said that it should definitely give more so i Filled my Tank and drove to a nearby city and then found out that it gave around 48 MPG. So I'm also confused why The Mileage shown in Torque App isn't correct . I'm also thinking that this could be because it takes the reading from the sensor data.
131,107
Can "already" be used in other tenses? For examples: Is it possible if I use "already" in all progressive tenses? E.g. > > He is already flying his plane > > > He was already flying his plane. > > > He will already flying his plane. > > > and I'm not sure that it can be used like those, E.g. > > I would have *already* played it (or) I will have *already* played it. > > > So, when can I use "already"?
2017/05/31
[ "https://ell.stackexchange.com/questions/131107", "https://ell.stackexchange.com", "https://ell.stackexchange.com/users/-1/" ]
*Already* may be used in any non-negative context, with any verb construction, simple, progressive, or perfect, with any time reference: it designates the time you are speaking about (technically, Reference Time). > > He's already flying his plane. > > He had already flown his plane. > > At 6 pm he will already have been flying his plane for two hours. > > > In negative contexts, however, it is replaced with *yet*, unless you are explicitly contradicting a prior assertion with *already*. > > He is not yet flying his plane *or* He is not flying his plane yet. > > *but* > > What do you mean, he's already flying his plane? He's **not** already flying his plane—he hasn't even left the hangar! > > >
The adverb **already** is used to refer to a past action, or an ongoing or habitual action that *started* in the past. Therefore, it may be used with any tense that references the past, the present or the continuous. This includes all simple tenses, all perfect tenses and all progressive tenses, but note the following. When referring to a point in the past (past tenses or perfect tenses), already can be used with either an action (doing verb) or a state (being verb). When referring to a point in the present (simple present, simple future, or progressive) it can only really be used with a state\*. The caveat to this is when using simple present to refer to a habitual action, when a doing verb may be used. Note that when using simple future, there must be a reference point in the future for the *already* to make sense. > > I will already be gone - Doesn't really make sense (unless this is a response to a question that defines the time reference); when will you already be gone? > > > I will already be gone by tomorrow - OK > > > I will already play football by tomorrow - Doesn't really make sense > > > \*(Progressive tenses always use an auxiliary [be] because they refer to a state of doing something)
160,721
I am installing 2000 sq ft of engineered wood flooring. Some pieces of plywood are missing portions of the top layer. The plywood is 5/8" for 5 x 1/8" layers - I am not worried about strength. How do you typically fill the portions that are missing. I've added some example images - some of the worst. Let's assume that over 2000 sq ft. There are 100 knot holes that should be filled, 40 areas that are missing some portion of lamination. Replacing portions of the plywood for something like this would require cutting a new piece, removing the old piece carefully including trying to get it off the joist without destroying the joists as the ply is glued to the joist, and re-installing the new piece. Possibly also require sistering the joists depending on how the interior walls fall and where the patch was going to go. This is certainly a lot more work than whipping up a batch of thinset and screeding it into the areas needing filling. I appreciate that using something like PL could fill the areas but I need the floor flat for the hardwood installation. It can vary by 1/4" over 10' and I can't remember the number for shorter distances but I want it really flat. I don't think filling with PL and then trying to sand would work. I need a production level technique. For some of these I've used a modified thinset (for extra flexibility/strength). It mixes quick, installs quick and seems to be easy enough to screed level with the floor (it might shrink a small amount and be shy of the floor surface but I think that is reasonable. If you read books on hardwood flooring like Wood Flooring: A Complete Guide to Layout, Installation & Finishing by Peterson. He suggests that "manufacturers" have a liquid filler to repair plywood. I wasn't able to find one. I've also had someone say wood filler. The wood filler I've used is fairly viscous and would take a lot more time to fill in the missing space in the plywood than thinset. I am also not sure the wood filler would be any better - will it adhere better, flex better? Certainly easier to sand flat if needed but a lot more labor intensive to install. How should the areas that require filling be prepared? Would you take a wire brush and vacuum and then prime them? If using a thinset should you apply a latex primer to the area first? I am looking for best practice for this kind of issue. I am sure it is common but maybe there just is no standard approach and people just 1/2 ass it. Maybe some of the larger areas in the pictures below should be patched? I am not sure where the line is for patching vs filling. Thank you! [![plywood-knot-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg) [![buckelled-layer-delamination[![][2]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)] [![larger-single-layer-delamination[![][3]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)] [![mid-size-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)
2019/03/27
[ "https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/160721", "https://diy.stackexchange.com", "https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/97214/" ]
Some areas may allow you to apply a [safety window film](https://www.windowtintkansascity.com/window-tinting-benefits/safety-and-security-window-film/tempered-glass-alternatives). I have only seen it on heritage houses where the original windows are essential to the character of the house but I hear it's common in commercial applications. It's worth looking into. As long as it is up to your local codes.
No, it is not acceptable to use non-tempered glass, because the “seat” area is within 18” of the floor. The Code doesn’t say the window sill must be directly above the walking surface or if it could be recessed (like a window seat), etc. Plus, you don’t want to put family and friends in jeopardy by having them next to such a hazardous situation. (What If a child walked along the seat?) Btw, this code requirement requires the homeowner to change immediately. It is not “grandfathered” in as compliant. (There are 2 items in the Code that require the homeowner to up grade immediately: 1) tempered glass, and 2) smoke detectors.)
160,721
I am installing 2000 sq ft of engineered wood flooring. Some pieces of plywood are missing portions of the top layer. The plywood is 5/8" for 5 x 1/8" layers - I am not worried about strength. How do you typically fill the portions that are missing. I've added some example images - some of the worst. Let's assume that over 2000 sq ft. There are 100 knot holes that should be filled, 40 areas that are missing some portion of lamination. Replacing portions of the plywood for something like this would require cutting a new piece, removing the old piece carefully including trying to get it off the joist without destroying the joists as the ply is glued to the joist, and re-installing the new piece. Possibly also require sistering the joists depending on how the interior walls fall and where the patch was going to go. This is certainly a lot more work than whipping up a batch of thinset and screeding it into the areas needing filling. I appreciate that using something like PL could fill the areas but I need the floor flat for the hardwood installation. It can vary by 1/4" over 10' and I can't remember the number for shorter distances but I want it really flat. I don't think filling with PL and then trying to sand would work. I need a production level technique. For some of these I've used a modified thinset (for extra flexibility/strength). It mixes quick, installs quick and seems to be easy enough to screed level with the floor (it might shrink a small amount and be shy of the floor surface but I think that is reasonable. If you read books on hardwood flooring like Wood Flooring: A Complete Guide to Layout, Installation & Finishing by Peterson. He suggests that "manufacturers" have a liquid filler to repair plywood. I wasn't able to find one. I've also had someone say wood filler. The wood filler I've used is fairly viscous and would take a lot more time to fill in the missing space in the plywood than thinset. I am also not sure the wood filler would be any better - will it adhere better, flex better? Certainly easier to sand flat if needed but a lot more labor intensive to install. How should the areas that require filling be prepared? Would you take a wire brush and vacuum and then prime them? If using a thinset should you apply a latex primer to the area first? I am looking for best practice for this kind of issue. I am sure it is common but maybe there just is no standard approach and people just 1/2 ass it. Maybe some of the larger areas in the pictures below should be patched? I am not sure where the line is for patching vs filling. Thank you! [![plywood-knot-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg) [![buckelled-layer-delamination[![][2]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)] [![larger-single-layer-delamination[![][3]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)] [![mid-size-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)
2019/03/27
[ "https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/160721", "https://diy.stackexchange.com", "https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/97214/" ]
No, it is not acceptable to use non-tempered glass, because the “seat” area is within 18” of the floor. The Code doesn’t say the window sill must be directly above the walking surface or if it could be recessed (like a window seat), etc. Plus, you don’t want to put family and friends in jeopardy by having them next to such a hazardous situation. (What If a child walked along the seat?) Btw, this code requirement requires the homeowner to change immediately. It is not “grandfathered” in as compliant. (There are 2 items in the Code that require the homeowner to up grade immediately: 1) tempered glass, and 2) smoke detectors.)
I would suggest instead use sealed units made for patio doors. That 69 x 40 is very close to the size patio door used in condos, where you have a step over sill between the room and the balcony. Since you are buying a standard size unit, you get the prices of mass production instead of a custom made sealed unit. If your climate permits non-sealed units, you can often get glass units that been replaced. These units are often free or very cheap. With work you can split the two panes sliding a putty knife, or trim pry-bar in the seal. (I ahve a stack of 70 39.5" x 66" x 5/32" that I got for $50. Idea was for a green house)
160,721
I am installing 2000 sq ft of engineered wood flooring. Some pieces of plywood are missing portions of the top layer. The plywood is 5/8" for 5 x 1/8" layers - I am not worried about strength. How do you typically fill the portions that are missing. I've added some example images - some of the worst. Let's assume that over 2000 sq ft. There are 100 knot holes that should be filled, 40 areas that are missing some portion of lamination. Replacing portions of the plywood for something like this would require cutting a new piece, removing the old piece carefully including trying to get it off the joist without destroying the joists as the ply is glued to the joist, and re-installing the new piece. Possibly also require sistering the joists depending on how the interior walls fall and where the patch was going to go. This is certainly a lot more work than whipping up a batch of thinset and screeding it into the areas needing filling. I appreciate that using something like PL could fill the areas but I need the floor flat for the hardwood installation. It can vary by 1/4" over 10' and I can't remember the number for shorter distances but I want it really flat. I don't think filling with PL and then trying to sand would work. I need a production level technique. For some of these I've used a modified thinset (for extra flexibility/strength). It mixes quick, installs quick and seems to be easy enough to screed level with the floor (it might shrink a small amount and be shy of the floor surface but I think that is reasonable. If you read books on hardwood flooring like Wood Flooring: A Complete Guide to Layout, Installation & Finishing by Peterson. He suggests that "manufacturers" have a liquid filler to repair plywood. I wasn't able to find one. I've also had someone say wood filler. The wood filler I've used is fairly viscous and would take a lot more time to fill in the missing space in the plywood than thinset. I am also not sure the wood filler would be any better - will it adhere better, flex better? Certainly easier to sand flat if needed but a lot more labor intensive to install. How should the areas that require filling be prepared? Would you take a wire brush and vacuum and then prime them? If using a thinset should you apply a latex primer to the area first? I am looking for best practice for this kind of issue. I am sure it is common but maybe there just is no standard approach and people just 1/2 ass it. Maybe some of the larger areas in the pictures below should be patched? I am not sure where the line is for patching vs filling. Thank you! [![plywood-knot-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg) [![buckelled-layer-delamination[![][2]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)] [![larger-single-layer-delamination[![][3]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)] [![mid-size-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)
2019/03/27
[ "https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/160721", "https://diy.stackexchange.com", "https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/97214/" ]
No, it is not acceptable to use non-tempered glass, because the “seat” area is within 18” of the floor. The Code doesn’t say the window sill must be directly above the walking surface or if it could be recessed (like a window seat), etc. Plus, you don’t want to put family and friends in jeopardy by having them next to such a hazardous situation. (What If a child walked along the seat?) Btw, this code requirement requires the homeowner to change immediately. It is not “grandfathered” in as compliant. (There are 2 items in the Code that require the homeowner to up grade immediately: 1) tempered glass, and 2) smoke detectors.)
ALL FOUR REQUIREMENTS HAVE TO BE MET OR YOU DO NOT TEMPER. If the window is a double hung then the 9 sq ft rule only applies to the bottom sash. Even if the bottom sash is larger than 9 sq ft then ONLY the bottom sash needs to be tempered. You also have the option of installing an oriel single hung so that the bottom sash is smaller than the top sash and falls under the 9 sq ft rule. Your windows do NOT have to be changed to meet new codes for tempering. If you replace the old window then you have to adhere to the new requirements.
160,721
I am installing 2000 sq ft of engineered wood flooring. Some pieces of plywood are missing portions of the top layer. The plywood is 5/8" for 5 x 1/8" layers - I am not worried about strength. How do you typically fill the portions that are missing. I've added some example images - some of the worst. Let's assume that over 2000 sq ft. There are 100 knot holes that should be filled, 40 areas that are missing some portion of lamination. Replacing portions of the plywood for something like this would require cutting a new piece, removing the old piece carefully including trying to get it off the joist without destroying the joists as the ply is glued to the joist, and re-installing the new piece. Possibly also require sistering the joists depending on how the interior walls fall and where the patch was going to go. This is certainly a lot more work than whipping up a batch of thinset and screeding it into the areas needing filling. I appreciate that using something like PL could fill the areas but I need the floor flat for the hardwood installation. It can vary by 1/4" over 10' and I can't remember the number for shorter distances but I want it really flat. I don't think filling with PL and then trying to sand would work. I need a production level technique. For some of these I've used a modified thinset (for extra flexibility/strength). It mixes quick, installs quick and seems to be easy enough to screed level with the floor (it might shrink a small amount and be shy of the floor surface but I think that is reasonable. If you read books on hardwood flooring like Wood Flooring: A Complete Guide to Layout, Installation & Finishing by Peterson. He suggests that "manufacturers" have a liquid filler to repair plywood. I wasn't able to find one. I've also had someone say wood filler. The wood filler I've used is fairly viscous and would take a lot more time to fill in the missing space in the plywood than thinset. I am also not sure the wood filler would be any better - will it adhere better, flex better? Certainly easier to sand flat if needed but a lot more labor intensive to install. How should the areas that require filling be prepared? Would you take a wire brush and vacuum and then prime them? If using a thinset should you apply a latex primer to the area first? I am looking for best practice for this kind of issue. I am sure it is common but maybe there just is no standard approach and people just 1/2 ass it. Maybe some of the larger areas in the pictures below should be patched? I am not sure where the line is for patching vs filling. Thank you! [![plywood-knot-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg) [![buckelled-layer-delamination[![][2]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)] [![larger-single-layer-delamination[![][3]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)] [![mid-size-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)
2019/03/27
[ "https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/160721", "https://diy.stackexchange.com", "https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/97214/" ]
No, it is not acceptable to use non-tempered glass, because the “seat” area is within 18” of the floor. The Code doesn’t say the window sill must be directly above the walking surface or if it could be recessed (like a window seat), etc. Plus, you don’t want to put family and friends in jeopardy by having them next to such a hazardous situation. (What If a child walked along the seat?) Btw, this code requirement requires the homeowner to change immediately. It is not “grandfathered” in as compliant. (There are 2 items in the Code that require the homeowner to up grade immediately: 1) tempered glass, and 2) smoke detectors.)
If the bottom edge of glazing is 3" or more higher than the seat then you may be exempt? The requirement seems to be: The bottom edge of the glazing (not the seat) is less than 18 inches (457 mm) above the floor. 2018 International Building Code (2406.4.3)
160,721
I am installing 2000 sq ft of engineered wood flooring. Some pieces of plywood are missing portions of the top layer. The plywood is 5/8" for 5 x 1/8" layers - I am not worried about strength. How do you typically fill the portions that are missing. I've added some example images - some of the worst. Let's assume that over 2000 sq ft. There are 100 knot holes that should be filled, 40 areas that are missing some portion of lamination. Replacing portions of the plywood for something like this would require cutting a new piece, removing the old piece carefully including trying to get it off the joist without destroying the joists as the ply is glued to the joist, and re-installing the new piece. Possibly also require sistering the joists depending on how the interior walls fall and where the patch was going to go. This is certainly a lot more work than whipping up a batch of thinset and screeding it into the areas needing filling. I appreciate that using something like PL could fill the areas but I need the floor flat for the hardwood installation. It can vary by 1/4" over 10' and I can't remember the number for shorter distances but I want it really flat. I don't think filling with PL and then trying to sand would work. I need a production level technique. For some of these I've used a modified thinset (for extra flexibility/strength). It mixes quick, installs quick and seems to be easy enough to screed level with the floor (it might shrink a small amount and be shy of the floor surface but I think that is reasonable. If you read books on hardwood flooring like Wood Flooring: A Complete Guide to Layout, Installation & Finishing by Peterson. He suggests that "manufacturers" have a liquid filler to repair plywood. I wasn't able to find one. I've also had someone say wood filler. The wood filler I've used is fairly viscous and would take a lot more time to fill in the missing space in the plywood than thinset. I am also not sure the wood filler would be any better - will it adhere better, flex better? Certainly easier to sand flat if needed but a lot more labor intensive to install. How should the areas that require filling be prepared? Would you take a wire brush and vacuum and then prime them? If using a thinset should you apply a latex primer to the area first? I am looking for best practice for this kind of issue. I am sure it is common but maybe there just is no standard approach and people just 1/2 ass it. Maybe some of the larger areas in the pictures below should be patched? I am not sure where the line is for patching vs filling. Thank you! [![plywood-knot-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg) [![buckelled-layer-delamination[![][2]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)] [![larger-single-layer-delamination[![][3]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)] [![mid-size-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)
2019/03/27
[ "https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/160721", "https://diy.stackexchange.com", "https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/97214/" ]
Some areas may allow you to apply a [safety window film](https://www.windowtintkansascity.com/window-tinting-benefits/safety-and-security-window-film/tempered-glass-alternatives). I have only seen it on heritage houses where the original windows are essential to the character of the house but I hear it's common in commercial applications. It's worth looking into. As long as it is up to your local codes.
I would suggest instead use sealed units made for patio doors. That 69 x 40 is very close to the size patio door used in condos, where you have a step over sill between the room and the balcony. Since you are buying a standard size unit, you get the prices of mass production instead of a custom made sealed unit. If your climate permits non-sealed units, you can often get glass units that been replaced. These units are often free or very cheap. With work you can split the two panes sliding a putty knife, or trim pry-bar in the seal. (I ahve a stack of 70 39.5" x 66" x 5/32" that I got for $50. Idea was for a green house)
160,721
I am installing 2000 sq ft of engineered wood flooring. Some pieces of plywood are missing portions of the top layer. The plywood is 5/8" for 5 x 1/8" layers - I am not worried about strength. How do you typically fill the portions that are missing. I've added some example images - some of the worst. Let's assume that over 2000 sq ft. There are 100 knot holes that should be filled, 40 areas that are missing some portion of lamination. Replacing portions of the plywood for something like this would require cutting a new piece, removing the old piece carefully including trying to get it off the joist without destroying the joists as the ply is glued to the joist, and re-installing the new piece. Possibly also require sistering the joists depending on how the interior walls fall and where the patch was going to go. This is certainly a lot more work than whipping up a batch of thinset and screeding it into the areas needing filling. I appreciate that using something like PL could fill the areas but I need the floor flat for the hardwood installation. It can vary by 1/4" over 10' and I can't remember the number for shorter distances but I want it really flat. I don't think filling with PL and then trying to sand would work. I need a production level technique. For some of these I've used a modified thinset (for extra flexibility/strength). It mixes quick, installs quick and seems to be easy enough to screed level with the floor (it might shrink a small amount and be shy of the floor surface but I think that is reasonable. If you read books on hardwood flooring like Wood Flooring: A Complete Guide to Layout, Installation & Finishing by Peterson. He suggests that "manufacturers" have a liquid filler to repair plywood. I wasn't able to find one. I've also had someone say wood filler. The wood filler I've used is fairly viscous and would take a lot more time to fill in the missing space in the plywood than thinset. I am also not sure the wood filler would be any better - will it adhere better, flex better? Certainly easier to sand flat if needed but a lot more labor intensive to install. How should the areas that require filling be prepared? Would you take a wire brush and vacuum and then prime them? If using a thinset should you apply a latex primer to the area first? I am looking for best practice for this kind of issue. I am sure it is common but maybe there just is no standard approach and people just 1/2 ass it. Maybe some of the larger areas in the pictures below should be patched? I am not sure where the line is for patching vs filling. Thank you! [![plywood-knot-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg) [![buckelled-layer-delamination[![][2]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)] [![larger-single-layer-delamination[![][3]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)] [![mid-size-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)
2019/03/27
[ "https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/160721", "https://diy.stackexchange.com", "https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/97214/" ]
Some areas may allow you to apply a [safety window film](https://www.windowtintkansascity.com/window-tinting-benefits/safety-and-security-window-film/tempered-glass-alternatives). I have only seen it on heritage houses where the original windows are essential to the character of the house but I hear it's common in commercial applications. It's worth looking into. As long as it is up to your local codes.
ALL FOUR REQUIREMENTS HAVE TO BE MET OR YOU DO NOT TEMPER. If the window is a double hung then the 9 sq ft rule only applies to the bottom sash. Even if the bottom sash is larger than 9 sq ft then ONLY the bottom sash needs to be tempered. You also have the option of installing an oriel single hung so that the bottom sash is smaller than the top sash and falls under the 9 sq ft rule. Your windows do NOT have to be changed to meet new codes for tempering. If you replace the old window then you have to adhere to the new requirements.
160,721
I am installing 2000 sq ft of engineered wood flooring. Some pieces of plywood are missing portions of the top layer. The plywood is 5/8" for 5 x 1/8" layers - I am not worried about strength. How do you typically fill the portions that are missing. I've added some example images - some of the worst. Let's assume that over 2000 sq ft. There are 100 knot holes that should be filled, 40 areas that are missing some portion of lamination. Replacing portions of the plywood for something like this would require cutting a new piece, removing the old piece carefully including trying to get it off the joist without destroying the joists as the ply is glued to the joist, and re-installing the new piece. Possibly also require sistering the joists depending on how the interior walls fall and where the patch was going to go. This is certainly a lot more work than whipping up a batch of thinset and screeding it into the areas needing filling. I appreciate that using something like PL could fill the areas but I need the floor flat for the hardwood installation. It can vary by 1/4" over 10' and I can't remember the number for shorter distances but I want it really flat. I don't think filling with PL and then trying to sand would work. I need a production level technique. For some of these I've used a modified thinset (for extra flexibility/strength). It mixes quick, installs quick and seems to be easy enough to screed level with the floor (it might shrink a small amount and be shy of the floor surface but I think that is reasonable. If you read books on hardwood flooring like Wood Flooring: A Complete Guide to Layout, Installation & Finishing by Peterson. He suggests that "manufacturers" have a liquid filler to repair plywood. I wasn't able to find one. I've also had someone say wood filler. The wood filler I've used is fairly viscous and would take a lot more time to fill in the missing space in the plywood than thinset. I am also not sure the wood filler would be any better - will it adhere better, flex better? Certainly easier to sand flat if needed but a lot more labor intensive to install. How should the areas that require filling be prepared? Would you take a wire brush and vacuum and then prime them? If using a thinset should you apply a latex primer to the area first? I am looking for best practice for this kind of issue. I am sure it is common but maybe there just is no standard approach and people just 1/2 ass it. Maybe some of the larger areas in the pictures below should be patched? I am not sure where the line is for patching vs filling. Thank you! [![plywood-knot-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg) [![buckelled-layer-delamination[![][2]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)] [![larger-single-layer-delamination[![][3]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)] [![mid-size-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)
2019/03/27
[ "https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/160721", "https://diy.stackexchange.com", "https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/97214/" ]
Some areas may allow you to apply a [safety window film](https://www.windowtintkansascity.com/window-tinting-benefits/safety-and-security-window-film/tempered-glass-alternatives). I have only seen it on heritage houses where the original windows are essential to the character of the house but I hear it's common in commercial applications. It's worth looking into. As long as it is up to your local codes.
If the bottom edge of glazing is 3" or more higher than the seat then you may be exempt? The requirement seems to be: The bottom edge of the glazing (not the seat) is less than 18 inches (457 mm) above the floor. 2018 International Building Code (2406.4.3)
160,721
I am installing 2000 sq ft of engineered wood flooring. Some pieces of plywood are missing portions of the top layer. The plywood is 5/8" for 5 x 1/8" layers - I am not worried about strength. How do you typically fill the portions that are missing. I've added some example images - some of the worst. Let's assume that over 2000 sq ft. There are 100 knot holes that should be filled, 40 areas that are missing some portion of lamination. Replacing portions of the plywood for something like this would require cutting a new piece, removing the old piece carefully including trying to get it off the joist without destroying the joists as the ply is glued to the joist, and re-installing the new piece. Possibly also require sistering the joists depending on how the interior walls fall and where the patch was going to go. This is certainly a lot more work than whipping up a batch of thinset and screeding it into the areas needing filling. I appreciate that using something like PL could fill the areas but I need the floor flat for the hardwood installation. It can vary by 1/4" over 10' and I can't remember the number for shorter distances but I want it really flat. I don't think filling with PL and then trying to sand would work. I need a production level technique. For some of these I've used a modified thinset (for extra flexibility/strength). It mixes quick, installs quick and seems to be easy enough to screed level with the floor (it might shrink a small amount and be shy of the floor surface but I think that is reasonable. If you read books on hardwood flooring like Wood Flooring: A Complete Guide to Layout, Installation & Finishing by Peterson. He suggests that "manufacturers" have a liquid filler to repair plywood. I wasn't able to find one. I've also had someone say wood filler. The wood filler I've used is fairly viscous and would take a lot more time to fill in the missing space in the plywood than thinset. I am also not sure the wood filler would be any better - will it adhere better, flex better? Certainly easier to sand flat if needed but a lot more labor intensive to install. How should the areas that require filling be prepared? Would you take a wire brush and vacuum and then prime them? If using a thinset should you apply a latex primer to the area first? I am looking for best practice for this kind of issue. I am sure it is common but maybe there just is no standard approach and people just 1/2 ass it. Maybe some of the larger areas in the pictures below should be patched? I am not sure where the line is for patching vs filling. Thank you! [![plywood-knot-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg) [![buckelled-layer-delamination[![][2]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)] [![larger-single-layer-delamination[![][3]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)] [![mid-size-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)
2019/03/27
[ "https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/160721", "https://diy.stackexchange.com", "https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/97214/" ]
I would suggest instead use sealed units made for patio doors. That 69 x 40 is very close to the size patio door used in condos, where you have a step over sill between the room and the balcony. Since you are buying a standard size unit, you get the prices of mass production instead of a custom made sealed unit. If your climate permits non-sealed units, you can often get glass units that been replaced. These units are often free or very cheap. With work you can split the two panes sliding a putty knife, or trim pry-bar in the seal. (I ahve a stack of 70 39.5" x 66" x 5/32" that I got for $50. Idea was for a green house)
If the bottom edge of glazing is 3" or more higher than the seat then you may be exempt? The requirement seems to be: The bottom edge of the glazing (not the seat) is less than 18 inches (457 mm) above the floor. 2018 International Building Code (2406.4.3)
160,721
I am installing 2000 sq ft of engineered wood flooring. Some pieces of plywood are missing portions of the top layer. The plywood is 5/8" for 5 x 1/8" layers - I am not worried about strength. How do you typically fill the portions that are missing. I've added some example images - some of the worst. Let's assume that over 2000 sq ft. There are 100 knot holes that should be filled, 40 areas that are missing some portion of lamination. Replacing portions of the plywood for something like this would require cutting a new piece, removing the old piece carefully including trying to get it off the joist without destroying the joists as the ply is glued to the joist, and re-installing the new piece. Possibly also require sistering the joists depending on how the interior walls fall and where the patch was going to go. This is certainly a lot more work than whipping up a batch of thinset and screeding it into the areas needing filling. I appreciate that using something like PL could fill the areas but I need the floor flat for the hardwood installation. It can vary by 1/4" over 10' and I can't remember the number for shorter distances but I want it really flat. I don't think filling with PL and then trying to sand would work. I need a production level technique. For some of these I've used a modified thinset (for extra flexibility/strength). It mixes quick, installs quick and seems to be easy enough to screed level with the floor (it might shrink a small amount and be shy of the floor surface but I think that is reasonable. If you read books on hardwood flooring like Wood Flooring: A Complete Guide to Layout, Installation & Finishing by Peterson. He suggests that "manufacturers" have a liquid filler to repair plywood. I wasn't able to find one. I've also had someone say wood filler. The wood filler I've used is fairly viscous and would take a lot more time to fill in the missing space in the plywood than thinset. I am also not sure the wood filler would be any better - will it adhere better, flex better? Certainly easier to sand flat if needed but a lot more labor intensive to install. How should the areas that require filling be prepared? Would you take a wire brush and vacuum and then prime them? If using a thinset should you apply a latex primer to the area first? I am looking for best practice for this kind of issue. I am sure it is common but maybe there just is no standard approach and people just 1/2 ass it. Maybe some of the larger areas in the pictures below should be patched? I am not sure where the line is for patching vs filling. Thank you! [![plywood-knot-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBnLj.jpg) [![buckelled-layer-delamination[![][2]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dz67.jpg)] [![larger-single-layer-delamination[![][3]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOlzm.jpg)] [![mid-size-delamination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKkM8.jpg)
2019/03/27
[ "https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/160721", "https://diy.stackexchange.com", "https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/97214/" ]
ALL FOUR REQUIREMENTS HAVE TO BE MET OR YOU DO NOT TEMPER. If the window is a double hung then the 9 sq ft rule only applies to the bottom sash. Even if the bottom sash is larger than 9 sq ft then ONLY the bottom sash needs to be tempered. You also have the option of installing an oriel single hung so that the bottom sash is smaller than the top sash and falls under the 9 sq ft rule. Your windows do NOT have to be changed to meet new codes for tempering. If you replace the old window then you have to adhere to the new requirements.
If the bottom edge of glazing is 3" or more higher than the seat then you may be exempt? The requirement seems to be: The bottom edge of the glazing (not the seat) is less than 18 inches (457 mm) above the floor. 2018 International Building Code (2406.4.3)
234,618
There are lots of posts to do with QGIS crashing; they tend to deal with specific instances and conditions. But this has led me to want to know what is a crash minidump? What is happening, is there a simple answer? The background leading up to this is that I have a user that has a crash minidump every time that they close QGIS (2.14.9), even though many others are using the same version, on exactly the same machines, of the same age and make without issue. Then myself, using QGIS 2.16 , I was testing out an answer from [Merging attribute and geometric features in QGIS?](https://gis.stackexchange.com/questions/233489/merging-attribute-and-geometric-features-in-qgis/233491#comment363558_233491) it gave me a crash minidump each time I tried dissolve vectors. So I decided to uninstall 2.16, and install 2.18 But before I did this I looked for information on crash minidump and yes, the main accepted advice, which works, is to Delete C:\users\name.qgis2 before re-installing But what is a crash minidump, what’s happening? **Edit added** The user mentioned above, after a of week of no crash mini dump's, is again reporting that the issue is back. Again every time they close QGIS? What actually causes QGIS to crash? Could it be a hardware issue possibly?
2017/04/04
[ "https://gis.stackexchange.com/questions/234618", "https://gis.stackexchange.com", "https://gis.stackexchange.com/users/56903/" ]
Windows automatically generates a minidump whenever a program throws an unhandled exception: <https://msdn.microsoft.com/ru-ru/library/windows/desktop/ee416349%28v=vs.85%29.aspx> You can open these minidumps with a program like WinDbg to get an idea what caused the exception: [![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ikkB.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ikkB.png) We tried to find the reason for the exceptions when QGIS crashed quite often. Even with our paid QGIS-Support we could not find the reasons for the QGIS-crashes and were told that the minidumps are not necessarily helpful. A better way for us was to use the QGIS-rel-dev version which writes debug-outputs and listen to these debug-outputs with a program like DebugView (<https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/debugview.aspx> ): If you install qgis-rel-dev with the OsGeo4W-Installer you can start this QGIS-version with the qgis-rel-devXXX.bat file: [![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XNsvL.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XNsvL.png) In the about-dialog of QGIS you can see if your QGIS-version writes debug outputs: [![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOofZ.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOofZ.png) If you start DebugView and work with QGIS until it crashes you should see what tools / functions were involved when the crash happened: [![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JoiTa.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JoiTa.png)
I discovered that a "corrupted" layer causes the "minidump crash" error. This corrupted layer contains some "invisible" features - I selected All Features (ctrl+A) then execute the Move Feature command, when I move the mouse, these invisible features appeared in a different shade of color, but it was there. So what I did is to re-create the layer by creating a new layer and then tracing the visible features. Then I deleted the "corrupted" layer from my project.
67,960
Hi there, I was wondering what is good question and what is bad question. I understand this is a subjective issue, but there must be some more details guidelines for that. E.g. if someone gives a problem and asks: What might be a strategy to solve it? I think that is an example of bad question, because someone hasn't applied any thought to solving the problem and just wants a solution, because this is their assignment or something.
2010/10/18
[ "https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/67960", "https://meta.stackexchange.com", "https://meta.stackexchange.com/users/152463/" ]
Take a look at Jon Skeet's [Writing the perfect question](http://tinyurl.com/stack-hints). Since the former link went stale and actually I detest link-only answers, here's the very content (converted from HTML to Markdown via <http://domchristie.github.io/to-markdown/>): --- Writing the perfect question ============================ August 29, 2010 Jon Skeet A while ago, I wrote a [blog entry](https://codeblog.jonskeet.uk/2009/02/17/answering-technical-questions-helpfully) on how to *answer* questions helpfully on sites like [Stack Overflow](https://stackoverflow.com/). Recently I saw [a meta question about bad questions](https://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/59991) and thought it would be worth following up with another blog post on *asking* questions. For the sake of convenience – and as Stack Overflow is so popular – I will assume the question is going to be asked on Stack Overflow or a similar Stack Exchange site. Most of the post doesn’t actually depend on that, but if you’re asking elsewhere you may need to tweak the advice a little. There are plenty of similar resources around, of course – in particular, Eric Raymond’s [How to Ask Questions the Smart Way](http://catb.org/esr/faqs/smart-questions.html) is a perennial favourite. Still, I think I can bring something to the table. The Golden Rule: Imagine You’re Trying To Answer The Question ------------------------------------------------------------- If you don’t remember anything else from this post, remember this bit. Everything else follows from here. (And yes, this does smack somewhat of [Matthew 7:12](http://www.biblegateway.com/passage/?search=Matthew+7:12&version=NIV).) Once you’ve finished writing your question, read it through. Imagine you were coming to it fresh, with no context other than what’s on the screen. Does it make sense? Is it clear what’s being asked? Is it easy to read and understand? Are there any obvious areas you’d need to ask about before providing an answer? You can *usually* do this pretty well however stuck you are on the actual question. Just apply common sense. If there’s anything wrong with the question when *you’re* reading it, obviously that will be a problem for whoever’s actually trying to answer it. So fix the problems. Improve the question until you can read it and think, “If I only knew the answer to the question, it would be a pleasure to provide that answer.” At that point, post and wait for the answers to come rolling in. > > Obviously this is somewhat easier to do if you have a certain amount of experience answering questions, particularly on the forum where you’re about to post. So, what should you be looking out for? > > > Question title -------------- When a reader first sees your question, they’re likely to be scrolling down a list of snippets. The most eye-catching part of the snippet will be the title – so use that text wisely. While you *can* include language or platform information, you should only do so naturally – not as a sort of “header”. For example, this is bad: > > Java: Why are bytes signed? > > > But this is okay: > > Why are bytes signed in Java? > > > Of course, you should *also* include this information in tags, as it will help people who pay particular attention to specific tags. Ideally, a question title should be a question – but frankly that’s not always feasible. I would recommend favouring a short, descriptive title which captures the theme of the question without actually *being* a question instead of really trying to crowbar it into the form of a question when it really doesn’t want to be. That’s not an excuse for laziness though – it’s *usually* possible to come up with a good title which is genuinely a question. It’s important that the question title is *specific* though, and has at least some meaning with no other information. A question such as “Why doesn’t this work?” makes absolutely *no* sense without the rest of the question. Likewise a “question” title of “Please help” is unlikely to do well. Context ------- In most cases, anyone answering the question will need to know what language and platform you’re using. The basics should usually be communicated through tags, but it may very well be worth providing more information: * Language version (e.g. C# 4) * Platform version (e.g. .NET 3.5; note that this isn’t always implicit from the language version, or vice versa) * Operating system, if it could be relevant (e.g. particular permissions issues) * Any other relevant software (e.g. database type and version, the IDE you’re using, web server you’re connecting to) * Any other constraints. This is particularly important. It’s *really annoying* to give a perfectly good answer to a question, only to be told that you’re not allowed to use feature X or Y which provide the obvious solution. + If you have unusual constraints, it’s worth explaining why. Not only does this answer the obvious follow-up comment, but it also gives more information about what *other* solutions may not be applicable. Describe what you’ve already tried and the results of any research. (You *have* searched for a solution to your problem before asking it, haven’t you? Stack Overflow isn’t meant to replace basic search skills.) Often there will be other people in a similar situation, but the answers didn’t quite match your situation. Just like the above point about unusual constraints, it saves time if you can point out differences between your situation and other common ones. It’s even worth referring to other related questions explicitly – particularly if they’re on the same forum. Aside from anything else, this shows a certain amount of “due diligence” – people are generally more willing to help you if can show you’ve already put some effort in. You should absolutely make sure that you tag the question appropriately. If you’re not sure which exact tags are appropriate, see what gets auto-suggested and look at samples for each one. If that sounds like a lot of work, just remember how much time you may be able to save yourself in the long run. It gets easier over time, of course. Problem statement ----------------- Make sure it’s obvious what you’re trying to get out of the question. Too many “questions” are actually just statements: when I do X, something goes wrong. Well, what did you expect it to do? What are you trying to accomplish? What have you already tried? What happened in those attempts? Be detailed: in particular, if something didn’t work, don’t just state that: tell us *how* it failed. If it threw an exception, what was the exception? (Don’t just give the type – give the error message and say which line threw it. If there’s a nested exception, post that too.) If at all possible, write a sort of “executive summary” at the start of your question, followed by a more detailed description. Remember that on the list of questions, the first few sentences will appear as a snippet. If you can get a sense of the question across in that snippet, you’re more likely to attract views from people who can answer the question. One trap that many posters fall into is to ask how to achieve some “small” aim, but never say what the larger aim is. Often the smaller aim is either impossible or rarely a good idea – instead, a different approach is needed. Again, if you provide more context when writing your problem statement, we can suggest better designs. It’s fine to specify how you’re currently trying to solve your bigger problem, of course – that’s likely to be necessary detail – but include the bigger goal too. Sample code and data -------------------- I may be biased on this one. I’m a *huge* believer in sample code, both for questions and answers… and I probably use it in an unconventional way. I usually paste it into a text editor, and try to compile it from the command line. If that’s not likely to work (and the problem isn’t obvious by inspection), I’m unlikely to bother too much with it. Firing up Eclipse or Visual Studio and finding an existing project I don’t care about or starting a new one is going to take much more time. That means if you want *me* to look at code, it should: * Be standalone. Don’t try to talk to a database unless you really have to. (Obviously for database questions, that’s kinda hard :) If you use sample XML, provide a short but *complete* XML file for us to reproduce the issue with. (And the same for other file types, obviously.) * Be complete. If there are missing imports or using directives, that’s really annoying * Actually compile (unless the compilation error is the reason for the question). Don’t give me code which is “something like” the real code but which clearly *isn’t* the real code, and may well not exhibit the same symptoms by the time I’ve fixed it so that it compiles. * Ideally not bring up a UI. Unless your code is *about* a UI issue, don’t bring one up. Console apps are simpler, and simplicity is a huge benefit when trying to hunt down a problem. * Demonstrate the problem. You should be able to say, “I expected the result to be X, it’s actually Y.” (You should actually say that too, so that we can check that we get the same results.) * Be as short as possible. If I have to wade through hundreds of lines of code to find the problem, I’m doing work that *you* should be doing. Often if you work hard to reduce the problem to a short but complete program, you’ll find the issue yourself. You can absolutely do this without knowing what the problem is; you should be looking to the community for their expertise, not their willingness to spend time on your problem doing the work that you can do yourself. Yes, this is a relatively onerous list. It doesn’t all apply to every problem, but it *does* apply in a great many situations. While I get put off by reams of irrelevant, badly formatted code, some of which clearly won’t compile, the inverse is true as well: if I can tell by looking at the question that the code can go through a copy/paste/compile/run cycle really quickly, I’m *much* more likely to pay the question significant attention. In data-oriented questions, it’s very often helpful to give some sample data. Cut out anything irrelevant (if your real table has 50 columns, you only need to include relevant ones) but make sure that you give enough sample input for it to be meaningful. For example, if you’re trying to group some data by a PersonID column, it’s pretty useless if there’s only one PersonID given, or if each PersonID only appears once. If you *are* giving examples of expected input and output, make sure it’s clear *why* that’s the expected output. Often I see questions which give a small number of samples, and there are various ways they could be interpreted. This is one area where it’s particularly important to reread the question from a stranger’s point of view: while a brief summary of the desired results may well make sense to someone who already knows what your app is trying to achieve, it may be gobbledygook to those trying to answer your question. Spelling, grammar and formatting -------------------------------- I know not everyone speaks English natively. My own command of non-English languages is lamentably poor – I’m incredibly lucky that my native tongue happens to be the lingua franca of the technical world. However, if you’re trying to communicate on an English-language forum, you owe it to yourself to make an effort to write at least *reasonably* correct English. * Please use capital letters where appropriate. It really can make a big difference in the readability of text. * Please split your text into paragraphs. Imagine this blog post as one big paragraph – it would be almost impossible to read. * Please write actual words. There are undoubtedly some abbreviations which are acceptable to most readers – IMO, IIRC etc –  there’s no reason to switch into text-speak with “gr8″, “bcoz”, “u” and so forth. It’s unlikely that you’re *actually* writing your question on a phone with only a primitive keyboard; show your readers respect by writing properly. It may take you a few more seconds, but if it means you get an answer quicker, it’s surely worth the extra effort. * Most browsers have built-in spelling checkers these days, or at least have plug-ins or extensions available to check your text. Technical text often creates a lot of false positives for checkers, but if your spelling isn’t generally great, it’s worth looking at the suggestions. Having said all of this, you’re not trying to create a literary masterpiece. You’re trying to communicate your question as effectively as possible. If you’re faced with the choice between an unambiguous but ugly sentence, or a phrase which stirs the soul but leaves the reader confused about exactly what you mean, go for the unambiguous option every time. One way a huge number of questions can be improved with very little effort is simply formatting them properly. Stack Overflow’s markdown editor is very good – the preview below your input box is almost always accurate in terms of the eventual result, and you can always edit the question later if anything doesn’t quite work. The exact details of the markdown is beyond the scope of this article – Stack Overflow has a [detailed guide](https://stackoverflow.com/editing-help) though – if you’re new to the site, I’d recommend you at least skim through it. By far the most important kind of formatting is making code look like code. Within a text paragraph, simply surround the code with backticks `like this`. For blocks of code, just indent everything by four spaces. If you’re cutting and pasting code, it may already be indented (for example if you’re copying code within a class) but if not, the easiest way to indent everything is to paste it, select the whole code block, and then press Ctrl-K or the “{ }” button just above the editor. One of the important things about code formatting is that it means angle brackets (and some other symbols) are preserved instead of being swallowed by the markdown formatter. In some cases this can mean all the difference between a question which is easy to answer and one which doesn’t make any sense, particularly in terms of generics in Java and C# or templates in C++. For example, like this > > Why can’t I convert an expression of type List<string> to List<object>? > > > makes no sense at all if the type arguments are removed: > > Why can’t I convert an expression of type List to List? > > > Often experienced members of the site will recognise what’s going on and edit your question for you, but obviously it’s better if they don’t have to. Making a good impression ------------------------ Leaving aside the main body of the question, there are a few simple ways to get the community “on your side” and therefore more likely to give you a useful answer quickly. * Register as a user and give yourself a meaningful name. It doesn’t have to be your real name, but frankly names like “Top Coder” or “Coding Guru” look pretty silly when you’re asking a question which others find simple. That’s still better than leaving yourself as “user154232″ or whatever identifier is assigned to you by default though. Aside from anything else, it shows a certain amount of commitment to the question and/or site: if you’ve bothered to give yourself a name, you’re less likely to be an “ask-and-run” questioner. * Keep an eye on your question. There may well be requests for clarification – and of course, answers! If you receive an answer which wasn’t quite what you were looking for, explain carefully (and politely) why it’s not suitable for your purposes. Consider going back and editing your question to make it clearer for subsequent users. * Don’t add your own answer unless it really *is* an answer. Often users add extra details in an “answer” when they should really have just edited their question. Likewise editing your question is generally a better idea than adding a long comment to an existing answer – particularly if that comment contains a block of code (which won’t work well in a comment). If you do change the question in response to an answer though, it’s worth adding a comment to the answer just to let the user know that you’ve updated it though… you may well find they quickly edit their answer to match the revised question. * There’s no need to include greetings and sign-offs such as “Hi everyone!” and “Thanks – hope to get an answer soon” in the question. These will often be edited out by other users, as they’re basically a distraction. Greetings at the start of a question are particularly useless as they can take up valuable space in the snippet displayed in the question list. * Above all, be polite. Remember that no-one is getting paid to answer your question. Users are giving up their time to help you – so please be appreciative of that. If you’re asking a homework question, explain why you’re asking for help with something that traditionally you’d have to answer all by yourself. If a user suggests that your general approach is wrong and that there’s a better way of doing things, don’t take it personally: they’re trying to help you improve your code. By all means disagree robustly, but don’t start into ad hominem arguments. (This advice applies to answerers as well, of course.) * (Somewhat specific to Stack Overflow.) If an answer is particularly helpful or solves your problem, accept it by clicking on the tick mark by it. After you’ve asked a certain number of questions, an *accept rate* will be shown by your username in the question. Some users get annoyed with those with low accept rates (i.e. people who ask a lot of questions but rarely accept answers). Personally I’m not overly bothered by accept rates, but accepting an answer is still a generally good thing to do *if* it solved your problem. I certainly wouldn’t suggest accepting answers just to get your accept rate, if they didn’t help you. Conclusion and feedback ----------------------- Stack Overflow is an amazing resource (along with other Q&A sites, of course). The idea that you can get a good answer to a wide range of questions within *minutes* is pretty staggering… but there’s an obvious correlation between the quality of a question and the likelihood that you’ll get quick, helpful answers. Put that extra bit of effort in yourself, and it will probably pay for itself very quickly. I’m hoping to keep this blog post up to date with suggestions received – if I’ve missed out anything, over- or under-emphasized a specific point, or generally gone off track, let me know either in the comments here or mail me (skeet@pobox.com). If this document ends up elsewhere, then that copy may end up being the “canonical” one which is edited over time – in which case I’ll indicate that here.
Pretty much any question that breaks 1 or more of "[How to Ask](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/how-to-ask)" guidelines would be considered a bad question in my eyes.
67,960
Hi there, I was wondering what is good question and what is bad question. I understand this is a subjective issue, but there must be some more details guidelines for that. E.g. if someone gives a problem and asks: What might be a strategy to solve it? I think that is an example of bad question, because someone hasn't applied any thought to solving the problem and just wants a solution, because this is their assignment or something.
2010/10/18
[ "https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/67960", "https://meta.stackexchange.com", "https://meta.stackexchange.com/users/152463/" ]
With apologies to [Tolstoy](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anna_Karenina_principle), bad questions are each bad in their own way. Any of these works for me: * saying something "doesn't work" without providing any details of what leads you to that conclusion (an error message? exception? inaccurate answer?) and where appropriate, the accurate result you were expecting * having constraints you don't reveal until after gaining several answers ("actually I can't use anything after .NET 2.0", or "actually I don't have the source code for the library", or "actually my boss forbids us to use COM components", etc) * assuming we all know you and are following your journey through your problem ("Hi guys, I got past my file problem but now I can't seem to format the string correctly") * insulting the technology you are using, when asking for help from people who know that technology well and use it by choice ("I am stuck with this piece of crap and it won't do anything I want and how can I make it as delightful as what I usually use") * pasting in dozens of lines of code that is not, in fact, the code that's having the problem - usually we can tell because what you pasted doesn't compile * tag misuse and grammar/spelling/format, though generally I will just try to fix those so that someone will actually see the question and help you
Pretty much any question that breaks 1 or more of "[How to Ask](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/how-to-ask)" guidelines would be considered a bad question in my eyes.
67,960
Hi there, I was wondering what is good question and what is bad question. I understand this is a subjective issue, but there must be some more details guidelines for that. E.g. if someone gives a problem and asks: What might be a strategy to solve it? I think that is an example of bad question, because someone hasn't applied any thought to solving the problem and just wants a solution, because this is their assignment or something.
2010/10/18
[ "https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/67960", "https://meta.stackexchange.com", "https://meta.stackexchange.com/users/152463/" ]
"Please send me the codes" kind of questions. > > Hello Frineds, > > > I having been recived a task to craete > this iphone APPLICATION which can > connect to a website and send > information to database. Also must > store an imgae on data base and on > phone. Pleas tell me how to do this. > Must know very soon. > > > thanks you all > > >
Pretty much any question that breaks 1 or more of "[How to Ask](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/how-to-ask)" guidelines would be considered a bad question in my eyes.
67,960
Hi there, I was wondering what is good question and what is bad question. I understand this is a subjective issue, but there must be some more details guidelines for that. E.g. if someone gives a problem and asks: What might be a strategy to solve it? I think that is an example of bad question, because someone hasn't applied any thought to solving the problem and just wants a solution, because this is their assignment or something.
2010/10/18
[ "https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/67960", "https://meta.stackexchange.com", "https://meta.stackexchange.com/users/152463/" ]
Take a look at Jon Skeet's [Writing the perfect question](http://tinyurl.com/stack-hints). Since the former link went stale and actually I detest link-only answers, here's the very content (converted from HTML to Markdown via <http://domchristie.github.io/to-markdown/>): --- Writing the perfect question ============================ August 29, 2010 Jon Skeet A while ago, I wrote a [blog entry](https://codeblog.jonskeet.uk/2009/02/17/answering-technical-questions-helpfully) on how to *answer* questions helpfully on sites like [Stack Overflow](https://stackoverflow.com/). Recently I saw [a meta question about bad questions](https://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/59991) and thought it would be worth following up with another blog post on *asking* questions. For the sake of convenience – and as Stack Overflow is so popular – I will assume the question is going to be asked on Stack Overflow or a similar Stack Exchange site. Most of the post doesn’t actually depend on that, but if you’re asking elsewhere you may need to tweak the advice a little. There are plenty of similar resources around, of course – in particular, Eric Raymond’s [How to Ask Questions the Smart Way](http://catb.org/esr/faqs/smart-questions.html) is a perennial favourite. Still, I think I can bring something to the table. The Golden Rule: Imagine You’re Trying To Answer The Question ------------------------------------------------------------- If you don’t remember anything else from this post, remember this bit. Everything else follows from here. (And yes, this does smack somewhat of [Matthew 7:12](http://www.biblegateway.com/passage/?search=Matthew+7:12&version=NIV).) Once you’ve finished writing your question, read it through. Imagine you were coming to it fresh, with no context other than what’s on the screen. Does it make sense? Is it clear what’s being asked? Is it easy to read and understand? Are there any obvious areas you’d need to ask about before providing an answer? You can *usually* do this pretty well however stuck you are on the actual question. Just apply common sense. If there’s anything wrong with the question when *you’re* reading it, obviously that will be a problem for whoever’s actually trying to answer it. So fix the problems. Improve the question until you can read it and think, “If I only knew the answer to the question, it would be a pleasure to provide that answer.” At that point, post and wait for the answers to come rolling in. > > Obviously this is somewhat easier to do if you have a certain amount of experience answering questions, particularly on the forum where you’re about to post. So, what should you be looking out for? > > > Question title -------------- When a reader first sees your question, they’re likely to be scrolling down a list of snippets. The most eye-catching part of the snippet will be the title – so use that text wisely. While you *can* include language or platform information, you should only do so naturally – not as a sort of “header”. For example, this is bad: > > Java: Why are bytes signed? > > > But this is okay: > > Why are bytes signed in Java? > > > Of course, you should *also* include this information in tags, as it will help people who pay particular attention to specific tags. Ideally, a question title should be a question – but frankly that’s not always feasible. I would recommend favouring a short, descriptive title which captures the theme of the question without actually *being* a question instead of really trying to crowbar it into the form of a question when it really doesn’t want to be. That’s not an excuse for laziness though – it’s *usually* possible to come up with a good title which is genuinely a question. It’s important that the question title is *specific* though, and has at least some meaning with no other information. A question such as “Why doesn’t this work?” makes absolutely *no* sense without the rest of the question. Likewise a “question” title of “Please help” is unlikely to do well. Context ------- In most cases, anyone answering the question will need to know what language and platform you’re using. The basics should usually be communicated through tags, but it may very well be worth providing more information: * Language version (e.g. C# 4) * Platform version (e.g. .NET 3.5; note that this isn’t always implicit from the language version, or vice versa) * Operating system, if it could be relevant (e.g. particular permissions issues) * Any other relevant software (e.g. database type and version, the IDE you’re using, web server you’re connecting to) * Any other constraints. This is particularly important. It’s *really annoying* to give a perfectly good answer to a question, only to be told that you’re not allowed to use feature X or Y which provide the obvious solution. + If you have unusual constraints, it’s worth explaining why. Not only does this answer the obvious follow-up comment, but it also gives more information about what *other* solutions may not be applicable. Describe what you’ve already tried and the results of any research. (You *have* searched for a solution to your problem before asking it, haven’t you? Stack Overflow isn’t meant to replace basic search skills.) Often there will be other people in a similar situation, but the answers didn’t quite match your situation. Just like the above point about unusual constraints, it saves time if you can point out differences between your situation and other common ones. It’s even worth referring to other related questions explicitly – particularly if they’re on the same forum. Aside from anything else, this shows a certain amount of “due diligence” – people are generally more willing to help you if can show you’ve already put some effort in. You should absolutely make sure that you tag the question appropriately. If you’re not sure which exact tags are appropriate, see what gets auto-suggested and look at samples for each one. If that sounds like a lot of work, just remember how much time you may be able to save yourself in the long run. It gets easier over time, of course. Problem statement ----------------- Make sure it’s obvious what you’re trying to get out of the question. Too many “questions” are actually just statements: when I do X, something goes wrong. Well, what did you expect it to do? What are you trying to accomplish? What have you already tried? What happened in those attempts? Be detailed: in particular, if something didn’t work, don’t just state that: tell us *how* it failed. If it threw an exception, what was the exception? (Don’t just give the type – give the error message and say which line threw it. If there’s a nested exception, post that too.) If at all possible, write a sort of “executive summary” at the start of your question, followed by a more detailed description. Remember that on the list of questions, the first few sentences will appear as a snippet. If you can get a sense of the question across in that snippet, you’re more likely to attract views from people who can answer the question. One trap that many posters fall into is to ask how to achieve some “small” aim, but never say what the larger aim is. Often the smaller aim is either impossible or rarely a good idea – instead, a different approach is needed. Again, if you provide more context when writing your problem statement, we can suggest better designs. It’s fine to specify how you’re currently trying to solve your bigger problem, of course – that’s likely to be necessary detail – but include the bigger goal too. Sample code and data -------------------- I may be biased on this one. I’m a *huge* believer in sample code, both for questions and answers… and I probably use it in an unconventional way. I usually paste it into a text editor, and try to compile it from the command line. If that’s not likely to work (and the problem isn’t obvious by inspection), I’m unlikely to bother too much with it. Firing up Eclipse or Visual Studio and finding an existing project I don’t care about or starting a new one is going to take much more time. That means if you want *me* to look at code, it should: * Be standalone. Don’t try to talk to a database unless you really have to. (Obviously for database questions, that’s kinda hard :) If you use sample XML, provide a short but *complete* XML file for us to reproduce the issue with. (And the same for other file types, obviously.) * Be complete. If there are missing imports or using directives, that’s really annoying * Actually compile (unless the compilation error is the reason for the question). Don’t give me code which is “something like” the real code but which clearly *isn’t* the real code, and may well not exhibit the same symptoms by the time I’ve fixed it so that it compiles. * Ideally not bring up a UI. Unless your code is *about* a UI issue, don’t bring one up. Console apps are simpler, and simplicity is a huge benefit when trying to hunt down a problem. * Demonstrate the problem. You should be able to say, “I expected the result to be X, it’s actually Y.” (You should actually say that too, so that we can check that we get the same results.) * Be as short as possible. If I have to wade through hundreds of lines of code to find the problem, I’m doing work that *you* should be doing. Often if you work hard to reduce the problem to a short but complete program, you’ll find the issue yourself. You can absolutely do this without knowing what the problem is; you should be looking to the community for their expertise, not their willingness to spend time on your problem doing the work that you can do yourself. Yes, this is a relatively onerous list. It doesn’t all apply to every problem, but it *does* apply in a great many situations. While I get put off by reams of irrelevant, badly formatted code, some of which clearly won’t compile, the inverse is true as well: if I can tell by looking at the question that the code can go through a copy/paste/compile/run cycle really quickly, I’m *much* more likely to pay the question significant attention. In data-oriented questions, it’s very often helpful to give some sample data. Cut out anything irrelevant (if your real table has 50 columns, you only need to include relevant ones) but make sure that you give enough sample input for it to be meaningful. For example, if you’re trying to group some data by a PersonID column, it’s pretty useless if there’s only one PersonID given, or if each PersonID only appears once. If you *are* giving examples of expected input and output, make sure it’s clear *why* that’s the expected output. Often I see questions which give a small number of samples, and there are various ways they could be interpreted. This is one area where it’s particularly important to reread the question from a stranger’s point of view: while a brief summary of the desired results may well make sense to someone who already knows what your app is trying to achieve, it may be gobbledygook to those trying to answer your question. Spelling, grammar and formatting -------------------------------- I know not everyone speaks English natively. My own command of non-English languages is lamentably poor – I’m incredibly lucky that my native tongue happens to be the lingua franca of the technical world. However, if you’re trying to communicate on an English-language forum, you owe it to yourself to make an effort to write at least *reasonably* correct English. * Please use capital letters where appropriate. It really can make a big difference in the readability of text. * Please split your text into paragraphs. Imagine this blog post as one big paragraph – it would be almost impossible to read. * Please write actual words. There are undoubtedly some abbreviations which are acceptable to most readers – IMO, IIRC etc –  there’s no reason to switch into text-speak with “gr8″, “bcoz”, “u” and so forth. It’s unlikely that you’re *actually* writing your question on a phone with only a primitive keyboard; show your readers respect by writing properly. It may take you a few more seconds, but if it means you get an answer quicker, it’s surely worth the extra effort. * Most browsers have built-in spelling checkers these days, or at least have plug-ins or extensions available to check your text. Technical text often creates a lot of false positives for checkers, but if your spelling isn’t generally great, it’s worth looking at the suggestions. Having said all of this, you’re not trying to create a literary masterpiece. You’re trying to communicate your question as effectively as possible. If you’re faced with the choice between an unambiguous but ugly sentence, or a phrase which stirs the soul but leaves the reader confused about exactly what you mean, go for the unambiguous option every time. One way a huge number of questions can be improved with very little effort is simply formatting them properly. Stack Overflow’s markdown editor is very good – the preview below your input box is almost always accurate in terms of the eventual result, and you can always edit the question later if anything doesn’t quite work. The exact details of the markdown is beyond the scope of this article – Stack Overflow has a [detailed guide](https://stackoverflow.com/editing-help) though – if you’re new to the site, I’d recommend you at least skim through it. By far the most important kind of formatting is making code look like code. Within a text paragraph, simply surround the code with backticks `like this`. For blocks of code, just indent everything by four spaces. If you’re cutting and pasting code, it may already be indented (for example if you’re copying code within a class) but if not, the easiest way to indent everything is to paste it, select the whole code block, and then press Ctrl-K or the “{ }” button just above the editor. One of the important things about code formatting is that it means angle brackets (and some other symbols) are preserved instead of being swallowed by the markdown formatter. In some cases this can mean all the difference between a question which is easy to answer and one which doesn’t make any sense, particularly in terms of generics in Java and C# or templates in C++. For example, like this > > Why can’t I convert an expression of type List<string> to List<object>? > > > makes no sense at all if the type arguments are removed: > > Why can’t I convert an expression of type List to List? > > > Often experienced members of the site will recognise what’s going on and edit your question for you, but obviously it’s better if they don’t have to. Making a good impression ------------------------ Leaving aside the main body of the question, there are a few simple ways to get the community “on your side” and therefore more likely to give you a useful answer quickly. * Register as a user and give yourself a meaningful name. It doesn’t have to be your real name, but frankly names like “Top Coder” or “Coding Guru” look pretty silly when you’re asking a question which others find simple. That’s still better than leaving yourself as “user154232″ or whatever identifier is assigned to you by default though. Aside from anything else, it shows a certain amount of commitment to the question and/or site: if you’ve bothered to give yourself a name, you’re less likely to be an “ask-and-run” questioner. * Keep an eye on your question. There may well be requests for clarification – and of course, answers! If you receive an answer which wasn’t quite what you were looking for, explain carefully (and politely) why it’s not suitable for your purposes. Consider going back and editing your question to make it clearer for subsequent users. * Don’t add your own answer unless it really *is* an answer. Often users add extra details in an “answer” when they should really have just edited their question. Likewise editing your question is generally a better idea than adding a long comment to an existing answer – particularly if that comment contains a block of code (which won’t work well in a comment). If you do change the question in response to an answer though, it’s worth adding a comment to the answer just to let the user know that you’ve updated it though… you may well find they quickly edit their answer to match the revised question. * There’s no need to include greetings and sign-offs such as “Hi everyone!” and “Thanks – hope to get an answer soon” in the question. These will often be edited out by other users, as they’re basically a distraction. Greetings at the start of a question are particularly useless as they can take up valuable space in the snippet displayed in the question list. * Above all, be polite. Remember that no-one is getting paid to answer your question. Users are giving up their time to help you – so please be appreciative of that. If you’re asking a homework question, explain why you’re asking for help with something that traditionally you’d have to answer all by yourself. If a user suggests that your general approach is wrong and that there’s a better way of doing things, don’t take it personally: they’re trying to help you improve your code. By all means disagree robustly, but don’t start into ad hominem arguments. (This advice applies to answerers as well, of course.) * (Somewhat specific to Stack Overflow.) If an answer is particularly helpful or solves your problem, accept it by clicking on the tick mark by it. After you’ve asked a certain number of questions, an *accept rate* will be shown by your username in the question. Some users get annoyed with those with low accept rates (i.e. people who ask a lot of questions but rarely accept answers). Personally I’m not overly bothered by accept rates, but accepting an answer is still a generally good thing to do *if* it solved your problem. I certainly wouldn’t suggest accepting answers just to get your accept rate, if they didn’t help you. Conclusion and feedback ----------------------- Stack Overflow is an amazing resource (along with other Q&A sites, of course). The idea that you can get a good answer to a wide range of questions within *minutes* is pretty staggering… but there’s an obvious correlation between the quality of a question and the likelihood that you’ll get quick, helpful answers. Put that extra bit of effort in yourself, and it will probably pay for itself very quickly. I’m hoping to keep this blog post up to date with suggestions received – if I’ve missed out anything, over- or under-emphasized a specific point, or generally gone off track, let me know either in the comments here or mail me (skeet@pobox.com). If this document ends up elsewhere, then that copy may end up being the “canonical” one which is edited over time – in which case I’ll indicate that here.
"Please send me the codes" kind of questions. > > Hello Frineds, > > > I having been recived a task to craete > this iphone APPLICATION which can > connect to a website and send > information to database. Also must > store an imgae on data base and on > phone. Pleas tell me how to do this. > Must know very soon. > > > thanks you all > > >