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arrangement of the building does not do it justice and it has neither the gray of nor the delicate hue of the buildings of it is and gray by turns as i drove nearer i realized that it was very large large and that by some of perspective and arrangement this was not easily i was eager to see its interior however and a... | 43 |
from the earth such wonders as the and taken from the silent rooms of s house where they had stood for centuries in all their perfection and the river god representative of the i was especially interested to see the vast number of portrait of roman known and unknown which gave me a face to face understanding of that... | 43 |
in her very enthusiastic way she is charming i am sure you will like her she comes from america somewhere new york i think her husband is an author i believe i heard so she on in her genial talk making way i don t understand these american women they go about europe without their husbands in such a strange way now you... | 43 |
his children or he would not have torn italy with in order to advantage them in their fortunes his career is the most and weird of any that i know he was no sooner pope about april i proposed to out for his family his favored children by his favorite mistress in the same year he was made pope he created caesar his six... | 43 |
this fairly begun than new arise the pope thinks he sees an opportunity to mrs q and the family destroy the power of as a rival with the aid of the king of france louis xii he assistance to the latter who comes to and young now fearing for his life at the hands of his treacherous father in law deserts rome and and loui... | 43 |
was a fight over his coffin between priests of different and belonging to caesar the coffin being too short his body was down in it his and finally upset think of so much ambition coming to such a shameful end he achieved his desire however he wrote his name large if not in fame at least in he lived in astonishing gran... | 43 |
at the age of forty five he had laid by a and was off on a three years tour of the world mrs chicken merchant was a large woman very stout very fair very cautious of her thoughts and her conduct thoroughly s and well meaning before leaving her native town she told me she had a small library the funds for which she had... | 43 |
rose leaf proposition the picture of these noble down the fall of rose leaves cheered me greatly after my first excursion with i decided to take his whole course and followed along behind him listening to his interesting and during many delightful mornings and in the on the in the on the way and in the at and i shall n... | 43 |
called my attention to that very interesting agreement between leading families of the league in lower greece in which it was that the ruling class should be honored like gods and that the subject class should be held in like beasts he wanted to know if even a suspicion of such an attitude to day would not cause turmoi... | 43 |
is probably catholic he said or nearly so but it isn t the kind of that cares for influence in political affairs why here not long ago in a public speech the mayor charged that the was the cause of rome s being delayed at least a hundred years in its progress and there was lots of applause the national parliament which... | 43 |
the italian ladies from the brown laid their on it and the official next to me touched it as though it were an object of great value i was interested to see how the supreme the of all the monuments viewed all this he looked but rather wearily down on each one though occasionally he turned his head away or slightly in... | 43 |
lively and almost in their attentions the oldest and most faded of all the guides and attendants throng about the churches and of so old and faded that they seemed almost of poverty my good priest was for praying before every shrine he would get down on his knees and cross himself praying four or five minutes while i s... | 43 |
say to me that he had had a charming time and would i not come to france and visit him when i learn to speak french i replied smiling at him he smiled and nodded we shook hands and parted after breakfast i called a little open carriage such as they use in paris and and was off for and he took an early and caught his tr... | 43 |
the hotel de on the i sat behind a fat driver while he cracked his whip above the back of a lazy horse passing the while the of maria striped with strange bands of white and gray or a pleasing effect for a church i could see at once that the of the middle ages was a much more affair than that which now out in various... | 43 |
the or s of the in san or s or s x in the or s the journey of the three kings to in the old palace then i was ready to believe that nothing could be finer than i realized now that of all the cities in europe that i saw was possessed of the most intense art atmosphere something that over your soul in a grim way and cau... | 43 |
to contend with the rough of the world is to destroy its the makers of it was so in this man s case who at times because of unlucky was compelled to fly for his life or to sue for the means which life should have been honored to bestow upon him or else to abandon great purposes out of such a mist of sorrow and only so ... | 43 |
there are other wonderful the being absolutely for size but here the art is so uniformly relative to italy so identified with the so suggestive of the influence and the patronage which gave it birth the influence of religion the wealth of the catholic church the power of individual families such as the and the of are a... | 43 |
to our own will be wondering how we took our daily lives quite the same as our ancestors i should say and no differently from our descendants life works about the same in all times only exterior aspects change in the particular period in which and all italy for that matter was so remarkable italy was alive with ambitio... | 43 |
nevertheless i feel called upon to speak i could never come in to the breakfast table either there or at rome or in or without a large company of that peculiarly american brand of not rich of no great dignity but comfortable and above all with themselves i could never look at any of this tribe comfortably clothed very ... | 43 |
you came conducted by thomas cook whether you took the best or the worst you were politely and looked after one of the most amusing letters that i received while abroad was from this same friend who wanted me to go to not so long before i left rome he had arrived with his wife daughter and a young girl friend of his da... | 43 |
the bank apparently catching nothing i noticed the lovely of the south in the distance the large on the hills and here and there of those tall slender trees of france not conspicuous elsewhere on my journey in one place i noticed the largest display of washing i have ever seen quite the largest a whole field of linen ... | 43 |
mind and body that does and does not care a kind of dull fire burning within her and yet she seemed indifferent into the bargain she asked me an occasional question about new york as we dined and though wine was proffered she drank little and true to her statement that she was not hungry ate little she confided to me i... | 43 |
of cars just the of human feet you listen here and the very is musical the voices are soft why should they be loud they have nothing to contend with i am wild about this place there is a sweetness in the hush of things which and yet it is not the hush of silence all is life here all movement a sweet musical gaiety i w... | 43 |
yellow or black with age steps that have green and brown moss on them and that are alternately revealed or hidden by a high or low tide here comes a now the music of his voice is everywhere and it so obviously belongs here in the churches the houses the public buildings loves it it is oriental and truly beauti... | 43 |
soul and you say to yourself well i ve had about enough of this what is the use there is no use unless you are tracing the rise of religious art or trying to visit the of semi celebrated persons or following out the work of some one man or group of men to the last fragment you might as well there is nothing in it i s... | 43 |
the musical and i have no doubt that they influence it greatly the of la ought to be a german if he is not i got a first suggestion of paris in the a at forty tables set before the in the of and had my first taste of germany in the purely german beer halls with their of men or women where for a few cents expended for b... | 43 |
to the west of the i a at forty quaint city art has no method of including or suggesting even these vast spaces the wonder of the night and moonlight is scarcely for the painter s brush it belongs in verse the drama great literary such as those of and but not in pictures the human eye can see so much and the human hear... | 43 |
spoke german for i talked to him in that language and after finding that he could speak it better than i could i took his word for the rest we together i mentioned the little i knew of the in new york he brightened considerably we compared travel notes italy france england i do not like the he observed in one place i ... | 43 |
and courtesy i am glad to have the chance i love nature are those wild ducks i see on the lake flying about oh yes we have lots of them they are not allowed to be shot that s why they come here we have too there is a whole flock of that comes here every winter i feed them right out here at the dock every day why where ... | 43 |
train swiftly a straight german officer or official his uniform looking like new his boots polished his gold s and shining as brightly as gold can shine his whiskers red cap glistening glasses or bright and above all his sharp clear eyes looking directly at you making an almost amazing combination of energy vitality a... | 43 |
very far from let me see i argued looking at his map it s near the of the and the is the place see here it is here s the and here s i looked and sure enough they seemed reasonably close together all right i said give me a ticket to i book you to that s only thirty minutes away there s nothing of interest at not even a... | 43 |
and was off on the way i had myself driven to the old said to be full of picturesque houses for a look i reached the in time to have a argument with my driver as to whether he was entitled to two marks or one one being a fair reward and then hurried into my train in a half hour we a at forty were at on the and in thr... | 43 |
new rival of it and from west i had to walk to proper or what might now be called east a distance of over a mile i first shook my head in disgust and then laughed for there in the valley below me after i had walked a little way i could actually see the town my father had described a small walled city of now perhaps s... | 43 |
blown leaves of the preceding fall were on the ground but in between them new grass was springing and one might readily suspect and the first faint green points of lilies and the of it was beginning to the faint a town est suggestion of a light rain and in the west over the roofs and towers of a gleam of sunlight broke... | 43 |
a capable housekeeper etc would i go there i could have her room if i did would i wait until she could come back at the latter end of the month it was a most hospitable letter and coming from such a busy woman a most flattering one and evidently by i whether to accept this charming invitation as i strolled about at one... | 43 |
at being in germany at all why i can scarcely say perhaps i was beginning to be depressed with what in my prejudice i called the of germany a little while later i recognized that while there is an extreme conflict of temperament between the average german and myself i could yet admire them without wishing to be anythin... | 43 |
paris was here the trains offered a choice of first second and third class with the vast majority using the second and third i saw little difference in the crowds occupying either class the second class were in a brown the third class seats were of plain wood and clean i tried all three classes and finally fixed on the... | 43 |
in another minute or two also and when that is gone there will be another and so it goes there is not the slightest desire evident anywhere to pack anybody in there is n t any evidence that anybody wants to make anything for instance out of there are no these poor ruled people would really object to and standing in the... | 43 |
wife your daughter or your sister you buy a ticket for yourself four marks and walk in nothing is charged for your female companions and no notice is taken of them if you come here with a you pay four marks for yourself and four for her and you cannot get in without they know they have men at the door who are in this... | 43 |
as a of course i ought to accept all these delicate of the iron constitution of the universe as interesting but i can t now and then very frequently in fact life o a at forty becomes too much for my hardy stomach i withdraw chilled and by the way strength and weakness goes under and to think that as yet we have no meth... | 43 |
was fairly boiling with excitement husbands drove their wives back wives pulled their husbands away or tried to and men immediately took si des as men will finally the magnificent representative of law and order large and as interposed his great bulk between the two comparative order was restored each was led away in a... | 43 |
is the way it is i got on this train with just one mark i tried to make it clear how it all happened in my halting german he was a fine tall military solid fellow he looked at me with grave inquisitive eyes i will come in a little later he instead he shook me rudely at five thirty a m at some small place in holland and... | 43 |
of houses and buildings in the ever present water holland is obviously a land of and but much more than that it is a land of atmosphere i have often as to just what it is that the sea does to its children that marks them so definitely for its own and here in the thought came to mc again it is this your whether he the w... | 43 |
n t be too sure she merely continued to look at me and smile in a placid way but her inspection was so sympathetic and in a way that it was rather flattering than otherwise i in turn studied her here was a woman that i had been told had made an ideal marriage and she obviously displayed the quiet content that few achie... | 43 |
thousands of i had heard of the long line of colored beds that lay between here and and the and i was prepared to judge for myself whether they were beautiful as beautiful as the picture post cards sold everywhere indicated i found this so but even more than the beds i found the country round about from to the and del... | 43 |
he had the delicious pleasure of discovering that he was an artist then he married van the fair whom he painted sitting so gaily on his knee and for eight years he was probably happy had forty thousand to contribute to this s skill and fame were just their most significant proportions when she died then being an arti... | 43 |
more crude more than the average american contrasted with the the life understanding the a at forty philosophic acceptance of definite conditions in nature the are superior they are harder better trained more settled in the routine of things the of romance the of politics and religion the false standards of social and ... | 43 |
in spring it was even more pathetic for being touched by the caressing hand of nature i went to look at park and and seven kings i thought to visit sir to once more before the inquiring severity of his eye but i did not have time as things turned out was that i should spend a day or two at level owing to a great coal ... | 43 |
big dropped anchor in the and presently the london passengers were put on board and we were under way the harbor was lovely in a fading light chalk blue waters tall cliffs endless and a calling from the fort in the city our ship s captain was a christian believing in the of matter the of spirit or a divine idea yet he... | 43 |
a way miss e appeared at moments and from certain points of view delicacy refinement sweetness of mood the more attractive of the two but miss x with her face her chin her narrow eyes drew me quite like a i liked a certain snap and vigor which shot from her eyes and which i could feel represented our raw american for... | 43 |
hard everything fixed everything regular if they look up behold a huge complicated of steel noise and heat and regularity i shouldn t like that i think my soul would grow weary it would pall i like the softness of scenery the haze the uncertainty of the world outside life is better than and fixed motion i hope i trust ... | 43 |
before they begin how much it will take to do the things that they want to do and they start a at forty out to make that much not a fortune just enough to do the things that they want to do when they get that they retire and and what do they do when they live i asked what do they call living oh having a nice country ... | 43 |
for her as we came out seeing that my attitude had changed so she asked would you get me a box of i have n t any change surely i said and we stepped into a s shop from there we took a to a certain which she seemed to regard as sufficiently luxurious and from there but i ll tell this in detail tell me i said after she ... | 43 |
doing anything unwillingly in america and i am a good american i have always had the feeling that the american hotel or house servant or store clerk servants and politeness store clerk male or female was doing me a great favor if he did anything at all for me as for train men and passenger boat i have never been a... | 43 |
the characters in it hardy s lovely country people have warmed the of my heart george s english characters have appealed to me and here was a at forty but the way the train me into my seat and got my bags in after or before me and said we shall be starting now in a few minutes sir and called quietly and not yelling mi... | 43 |
of the sea i understood the bay of where boats were and tall hills that looked like tumbled down castles then came more open country i suppose with some sheep once a flock of black ones and then the lovely hues of this rain washed world the water under these dark clouds took on a peculiar it looked at times like ste... | 43 |
them truly i do not recall one at present clearly gives some suggestion of what he considered the misery of the poor and in les there is a touch of grim poverty and want here and there but this is something still different this is toil on a vast scale and it is a lean hungry savage animal to contemplate i know it is be... | 43 |
i strolled about watching the crowd till it was time for us to board our train for the country and eagerly i about trying to sense london from this vague noisy touch of it i can t indicate how the peculiar looking trains made me feel humanity is so very different in so many little things so utterly the same in all the... | 43 |
old dream come true and it had passed so oddly the trip so almost unconsciously as it were we make a great fuss i thought about the past and the future but the actual moment is so often without meaning finally after hearing a crow and thinking of hamlet s father his ghost and the chill that the thought of cock crow... | 43 |
i ventured eager to continue the conversation because of its novelty it s a nice little he went on but i would n t call it a tub i really did not know how to reply to this last it took me so by surprise a child of five in little breeches scarcely larger than my two hands making this fine distinction we surely live and... | 43 |
in the world because perhaps the most intellectual ho w different is the very atmosphere of it from america the great open common about this house of english individuality leisure order anything you will the atmosphere was damp the sun at best a golden haze all the bare trees were covered with a thin of almost spring ... | 43 |
york and more high hats and i could not tell for the coats the were of mail men messenger boys and soldiers and all being different from what i had been accustomed to they interested me the mail men particularly with a service cut square off at the top and the little messenger boys with their caps cocked over one ea... | 43 |
part of this fortunate adventure that we had been talking of a new development in french art which approved in part and in part the post and there was mention also of the a still more radical departure from conventional forms in which if my impressions are correct the artist passes from any attempt at the visible sce... | 43 |
than a protest the expression and of a great temperament but at the moment it struck me as dreary and i said as much when asked for my impression gloomy i morbid i mrs w fired in her quite lovely accent what has that to do with art luncheon is served madam the double doors of the dining room were flung open i found my... | 43 |
my modest literary reputation for itself upon england i enjoyed these two men as exceedingly able men against whose wits i could my own i mention them because in a measure they suggested the literary and artistic atmosphere of london chapter x some more about london sings in my ears i remember writing this somewhere a... | 43 |
turn o a at forty into fleet street as it went along and then into hill and then into cannon street neither could i understand why road should change to mile end road but that is neither here nor there the thing that interested me about london was that it was endless and that there were no high buildings nothing over ... | 43 |
went with a friend of mine to visit the house of parliament that noble pile of buildings on the banks of the thames for days i had been about them interested in other things the clock tower with its great round clock face twenty three feet in some one told me had been staring me in the face over a stretch of park spa... | 43 |
official offices as it were at and have a pleasant talk with him which i did while he was in the midst of it the call of division i sounded once more through the halls and he ran to take his place with his fellow on some question of vital importance i can see him bustling away in his long frock coat his in his hand rea... | 43 |
street was so narrow and alive with people along under or walking in the rain lights were burning in all the stores and dark recesses running back to the restless tide of the thames and they were full of an industrious commercial life it was interesting to me to think that i was in the of so much that was old but for ... | 43 |
that england would not be able to do anything at all with the united states the united states was so vast i said it was full of such smart people while england was attempting to do something with its giant navy we should be buying or building wonderful ships and machines for destroying the enemy it was useless to plead... | 43 |
by a grave silence which is to me as nothing else a profound peace i must get out of this i said to myself and yet i was almost myself for joy at the same time i remember going into one where an inn might once have been and finding in there a furniture shop a tin shop a store room of some kind and a stable all invisib... | 43 |
probable manner in which the customs and forms of life have originated i walked out another long street quite alone now in the dusk and met a man driving an ox also evidently to market there was a school in at one place a boys school low ancient in its exterior and silent as i passed it was out but there was no runnin... | 43 |
the garden to survey the fog lined valley from which came the distant bark of a dog chapter xiii a girl of the streets stood one evening in at the dinner hour staring into the bright shop windows london s display of and gold and silver ornaments interests me intensely it was and i had no umbrella yet that situation soo... | 43 |
into small rooms separated by thin cheap wooden the woman who came to change me a half sovereign in order that i might pay the driver was french small and looking she was pleasant and brisk and her whole attitude reassured me at once she did not look like a person who would to rob and i had good reason to think more cl... | 43 |
course according to her dreadful for the man she created a great scene broke some over his head and caused a general uproar in the house it is an old trick your timid man hearing this and being possibly a new or adventurer in this world becomes fearful of a scene many men are timid about with a woman beforehand it too ... | 43 |
much i don t know how to get money out of men i know you don t i replied with real sympathy you re not brazen enough those eyes of yours are too soft you should n t lie though you re better than that you ought to be in some other work worse luck she didn t answer choosing to my petty philosophic concern over something... | 43 |
stirred in straw and expecting it to be vigorous with the a at forty feel of growing life and freshness such as one finds in a stalk or tree it is a world of dead i should say or better yet a world in which never had a chance to grow the women were the birds of prey cold weary angry dull sad perhaps the men were victi... | 43 |
a half hearted way and i for one experienced no sense of a at forty of any kind only a low despair the people looked too meek too law governed the policeman must be an immense power in london vice yes poverty yes i saw young boys and girls with bodies which seemed to me to be but half made up by nature half done ... | 43 |
told me they came from blocks away some women washed here for whole the more industrious ones and yet few came here at that the more self respecting stayed away i learned this after a long conversation with my guide whose principal was that they were a worthless lot and that you had to watch them all the time if you ... | 43 |
the momentary estimate of the individual by your ability to withstand criticism i liked sir as go i liked his pale face his trim black beard his slim hands and his poised nervous manner oh yes so you re new to england i envy you your early impression i am for the future the extreme pleasure of reading you these little ... | 43 |
a beast of muddy brain it did not could not quite understand what was being done above it were intellectual classes each smaller and more enthusiastic and aware as you reach the top at least it has been so he said but now and the newspapers are beginning to break up this lovely of simplicity and ignorance into someth... | 43 |
anywhere there were graceful flocks of flying here and there there were the same gray little moss grown churches with quaint and odd vine covered windows there were the same tree protected borders of fields some of them most stately where the trees were tall and dark and sad in the rain i think an open landscape such a... | 43 |
college enter sir was as common as in the meanest school life is the same be art great or little and the fame of even oxford cannot over the weakness of a humanity that will alternately be low and high shabby and gorgeous narrow and vast the last thing we saw were some very old portions of christ college which had been... | 43 |
looking forward to it and to your first impressions every evening he wanted to take my hastily notes and read them and after doing so was anxious to have me do them all just that way that is day by day as i experienced them i found that quite impossible however once he wanted to know if i had any special preference in ... | 43 |
a white donkey paused and scratched his ear no sir i t say has i do sir i might sir a at forty down in the village you re very to know be it known by all men that i feed amply for all services performed hence his interest never mind for the present i replied i may want to know if so i ask you i knew he would inquire a... | 43 |
eve it was decided that should on the morrow the country house early and report progress while we went to church fancy and me marching to church christmas morning with the children christmas in england the day broke clear and bright and there we all were it was not cold and as is usual there was little if any wind i re... | 43 |
these elderly and more outside in the after the services were over and we were about a few moments i found a number of touches of that simplicity in ability which is such a splendid characteristic of the english although there were many graves here of the nobility and gentry from as far back as the sixteenth century th... | 43 |
was really as striking as i had imagined i was afraid would return to report that either a he did not know her or b that she was not so fascinating as i thought in either case my anticipated pleasure would come to the ground with a crash we entered shall i say with beating hearts had returned with sir and t he was no... | 43 |
of a goodly company of it s something to be an attractive i never saw children more handsomely or provided for a new saddle bridle and whip for s riding pony curious german mechanical toys from and certain ornamental articles of dress seemed by the astonishing bursts of excitement they provoked exceedingly welcome no... | 43 |
the larger cities of present day europe are of modem construction most of them have grown to their present great population in the last fifty years hence they have been built not in that time a part of nothing great cotton and machine works and was not anything either save long lines of brick cottages one and two st... | 43 |
have described they have all the dignity of vast temples of labor i was told by the american general at london that they are equipped with the very smoky england latest cotton spinning machinery and are now in a position to hold their own on equal terms with american competition if not utterly to defy it the and of t... | 43 |
i o smoky england i i not in years and years i m very sick though now i m goin to die i could see from her look that what she said was true only her exceeding weariness employed her mind i learned that water came from a in the yard that the kitchen floor was of earth then i left noticing as i went that she wore wooden ... | 43 |
for them instead i contented myself with noting how in so many cases the end of a street or the sheer dismal length of an unbroken row of houses all alike was honored made picturesque made grand even by the presence of the mills these gloomy monuments of labor there is an architecture of manufacture dreary and shabby a... | 43 |
known as s creek runs through the city in two branches and you find it in odd places walled in closely by the buildings hung over by little and the like of which i did not see again until i reached there were in the sky as i noticed when i came out of the railway station i was charmed with winding streets and a general... | 43 |
the wonder of the change and to contrast it with what had been and still was in such places as st s oxford and others i could see what the old life must have been like when the stage coach ruled and made the principal lively with traffic here in and elsewhere there were sacred to the characters of and you could see how... | 43 |
place two chairs in a comfortable position on deck to which we could repair in case it should clear up on the way over all of this i faithfully did the chairs had the best possible position behind the deck house and one of my pieces of luggage was left there as a that they belonged to me it looked like rain when the tr... | 43 |
arrival of this boat at and the similar boat which took us off the at there although the crowd which had arrived was equally large all was peaceful and rather still the went about their work in such a matter of fact manner en route to paris all was in apple pie order there was no shouting to speak of here all was and c... | 43 |
country from what it is to day was all of this it would have seemed hard and cold and bare and dry except for these little o a at forty of roofs and the lightness of the spirit of the people we wandered through high walled paved streets until suddenly we came on the cathedral soaring upward out of a of the dreary and c... | 43 |
of these cars started from st and others from and holland they had a long run ahead of them yet over thirty hours to rome and paris was just one point in their journey we crowded into one car with luggage its windows damp with human breath various occupying the section and disposed of our and so on as best we could ... | 43 |
fifteen or twenty and that by nine o clock we must be ready to sit down in the de paris to an excellent dinner which he had ordered by telegraph i recall my wonder in entering paris the l of any long extended the sudden flash of electric lights and electric cars mostly we seemed to be entering through a or and then we... | 43 |
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