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A HOLIDAY IN ICELAND
BY
N. L. VAN GRUISEN, Jun.
LONDON:
STOCK, PUBLISHER,
PATERNOSTER ROW.
i879-
ELLIOT
62
| |
E. Griffith & Son, Printers, Haymarket, Birkenhead.
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,
PREFACE.
HE writer hopes that, as the following
recollections of a very pleasurable summer
holiday in Iceland have afforded him great
pleasure in the writing, they may cause others
some in the reading, and be sufficient to induce
them when asking, “Where shall we go?” to seek
the same enjoyment. They will at least, in some
degree, inform them of the nature of the journey,
and of the extent to which they must be prepared
to “rough it.”
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Preparations for the journey—On board the Phonix —
Introduction to Consul K---—.— Commencement of the
voyage.
CHAPTER II.
Arrival at the Faroe Isles — Thorshaven — A trip to
Kirkeboe.
CHAPTER III.
At sea again — Iceland in sight—The Westmann Isles —
Reykjavik harbour—Visitors.
CHAPTER IV.
Ashore — Zoega — An Icelandic hotel — An apparition in
the bed-chamber—Reykjavik cathedral—Our Sunday after-
noon’s walk —Weather-bound — Eider ducks.
CHAPTER V.
We start “up country” — A barren plain — “Accidents
will happen” — Almanna Dagh—Arrival at Thingvalla —
An Icelandic “kitchen”—Latin scholars — An adventure
before breakfast.
CHAPTER VI.
The Althing — An after-dinner ride—Adieu to the par-
sonage— From Thingvalla to the Bridge River—An awkward
place to cross — We reach the geysers — Sad effects of a
long ride.
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VI.
CHAPTER VII.
A curious bath — Strange phenomena — Eruption of
“Strokr”-—Our first night under canvas.
CHAPTER VIII.
In the saddle again — Dangerous rivers, and how we crossed
them.
CHAPTER IX.
Splendid scenery — The wrong path — The result of stub-
bornness— The encampment at Skalholt — An Icelandic
farm — A very quiet evening.
CHAPTER X.
On the road to Hecla — Neurfholt — A wilderness of lava
-—Hecla — Lost in a fog — The eruption — An “exciting
adventure”— Native fare—A sleepy farmer thoroughly
wakened.
•CHAPTER XI.
Crossing the bogs — A miserable journey — Poor G--’s
luncheon — No lack of horse exercise — Reykurn — Apart-
ments in church.
CHAPTER XII.
An early start — We again approach Reykjavik — We
occupy our old apartments once more — Return to England.
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Reykjavik
Almanna Dagh or All Men’s Chasm
Cascade in Thingvalla
The Bridge River ...
The Geysers.....................
Page.
Frontispiece
... 20
......... 4°
60
80
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CHAPTER I.
T had long been my earnest desire to visit
the lands of the far North, but the distance,
the almost insuperable difficulties of the
journey, together with the length of time it would
require, had for many years deterred me from
making an attempt. However, early in the year
eighteen hundred and seventy-eight, I chanced to
mention to my friend, Fred D----------, more in the
spirit of fun than earnestness, that a trip to Iceland
in the summer would be very enjoyable, as well as a
very novel mode of spending a holiday. Somewhat
to my surprise he received the idea with enthusiasm,
and immediately commenced searching for whatever
information he could get of this little=known country
— Ultima Thule.
The only work giving anything like full details
is that written by one of our great travellers, and I
must confess our enthusiasm was considerably
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6
A Holiday in Iceland,
damped by reading the blunt and unflattering re-
marks which he applies both to the country and its
people. We were beginning to wonder whether
after all “the game was worth the candle,” when
news arrived that Hecla was in eruption. That
decided it.
Fred at once discovered that the author before
referred to must have been either out of health or
temper during his whole visit, and after awhile we
talked ourselves into the firm belief that the con-
summation of earthly happiness was only to be
arrived at by a visit to Iceland.
Behold us, then, a month later, busily engaged
hunting up our old thick clothing, and collecting
a goodly supply of woollen garments. For the
benefit of such roving spirits as may aspire to a
journey Northwards, perhaps a few hints as to the
garments necessary to take would be useful. You
may entirely dispense with linen shirts, collars, &c.,
and put in their places coarse woollen articles ; two
thick suits of clothes should be taken, as well as
great coat, mackintosh, and leggings; above all be
careful to have plenty of woollen socks, and at least
three pairs of strong boots. A rug will be found an
indispensable article for tent life, and an air-cushion
often a great convenience. We accidentally omitted
the latter article, and, as the sequel will prove, paid
dearly for our negligence.
After a few preliminary enquiries, Messrs. Cook
informed me that they could procure berths for us in
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A Holiday in Iceland.
7
the Danish Mail Steamer Phonix, advertised to sail
from Copenhagen on Saturday, July 6th, and to call
at Leith upon the Wednesday following. So upon
Wednesday morning we punctually presented our-
selves alongside the Phonix, which was snugly en-
sconced in dock. No one appeared on deck, and
armed with our portmanteaux, &c., we carefully
commenced the somewhat difficult descent of the
saloon staircase, Fred foremost, I bringing up the
rear. What demon of carelessness or mischief
prompted Fred to let go his hold on his baggage I
cannot say, but certain it is that, his foot slipping,
he threw out his arms to save himself fi'om a fall,
and the released portmanteau with two bounds was
in the centre of the saloon, unceremoniously up-
setting a small stiff-looking man in an undress
uniform. Such was our introduction to Consul
K-------, whose purple face turned more purple
than ever when Fred stepped forward and most
eloquently apologised, throwing the entire blame
upon the construction of the steamer, and its
constructors. Now as the worthy Consul was
Chairman of the Company who had built, and who
owned the steamer, one cannot feel much surprised
at the look of annoyance plainly visible upon his
glowing countenance, for to first knock a man
down, and then tell him it is his own fault, is even
more than a Danish Consul can put up with.
Affairs began to look serious, when suddenly a
smart little man appeared, who took in the whole
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8
A Holiday in Iceland.
scene at a glance, and whose mischievous eyes fairly
sparkled with fun and delight. This was Captain
A-------, of the Phonix, and our host. To him
we introduced ourselves, and matters were soon
set straight, for, as we afterwards heard, he ex-
plained to the Consul that we were “only English,”
and that he supposed we were not more clumsy than
the generality of that race. Peace being restored
we deposited the luggage in our stateroom, and
repaired to the deck again, where, to our surprise,
we were informed that the steamer would not be
ready to sail until the following day, having run
short of coal. However disappointed we might be,
there was nothing for it but to spend another day
in Edinburgh. Perhaps some of my readers may
think it no great hardship to spend one more day
in Edinburgh, but to me, burning with curiosity
to get into high latitudes, the delay was vexatious.
As we turned to leave the steamer and wend our
way back to the hotel, in no very amiable mood, a
hackney coach drew up, from which bounded a large
mastiff dog, followed by a man of gigantic height.
This was Edward G--------------, a solicitor, from
London, who, for the sake of his health, had been
ordered to take a journey to an invigorating climate,
and like us had decided upon a trip to Iceland. I
generally find first impressions verified in the long
run, and it was so in this case. I took a great
fancy to this good-natured giant (he was 6 feet
7 inches in his stockings), which, as we became
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A Holiday in Iceland.
9
more intimate, grew into an ardent friendship. And
to get to know a man thoroughly, both good points
and bad, there is nothing like travelling in Iceland.
But I am running on too fast—we are still in
Scotland, with a whole day and night before us.
Hearing that G------— was bound upon the same
journey as we were, and now like us had a day upon
his hands, we very soon struck up an acquaintance,
and returned in his coach to the hotel. At his
suggestion we purchased a large supply of preserved
meats, soups, Liebig’s beef tea, sardines, tea, coffee,
cocoa, in short, provisions of every kind in portable
form. He then shewed us his own supply, which
contained many delicacies, together with two small
cooking stoves strongly packed in a case.
So time rolled on. I might tell you of the
astonishment of the waiter as package after package
arrived from the various warehouses addressed to
me, of the look of surprise with which I was
regarded at table d’hote, when a waiter came and
in an audible whisper informed me that a parcel
containing forty boxes of sardines had arrived ; but
it is time we pushed on with our journey.
After a rather hurried breakfast next morning, we
drove to the Phonix again, and by eleven o’clock
were slowly steaming out of dock. I noticed that
several new passengers had come on board, though
in the confusion of starting I was at first unable to
make any acquaintance with them. At one o’clock
all sat down to an excellent dinner, and the sea
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io A Holiday in Iceland.
being calm as a mill pond, all heartily enjoyed it,
and began to congratulate each other upon being
excellent sailors. In the afternoon coffee was
brought on deck, and under the influence of the
sociable weed conversation soon became general.
Two gentlemen from Oxford I found were bound for
the Faroe Isles upon a bird catching expedition; we
had also on board a Catholic Priest bound for
Iceland, like ourselves also, taking a holiday; the
chief Pastor of the Faroe Isles returning from a
visit to England; the French Consul from Copen-
hagen, Consul K-----------, whose acquaintance we
had already made ; and General C-----------and Mr.
E--------■, who were later on to be our fellow
travellers across the barren plains of Iceland.
Time slipped pleasantly away as we lounged
under the awning, smoking our cigars, and the
weather being everything that could be desired.
The whole party was in excellent spirits, each little
witticism being received with roars of laughter, and
even Consul K----------smiled as he turned up his
eyes and said, “bootifool!” Alas! we little knew
what was in store for us. At two o’clock next
morning I was rudely awakened by being nearly
pitched out of my berth — little more need be said —
you can imagine the rest. Later on I managed to
scramble upstairs to the deck house, where to all
intents and purposes I lay as a dead man; but
even that miserable night had its ludicrous side.
G--------fearing his berth would not be long enough
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A Holiday in Iceland.
ii
for him, had, in spite of the warnings of both
captain and mate, slung a hammock on the lower
deck, where he thought he might sleep comfortably
sheltered from the wind; but he had never counted
upon weathering.a gale, and when, in the middle of
the night, he awakened, it was to find himself
thoroughly drenched, for by that time the waves
washed completely over the lower deck. To see
our friend afterwards, in very airy garments, endeav-
ouring to get his clothes dried, was altogether too
funny.
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CHAPTER II.
Y the third day (Sunday), we had all com-
pletely recovered, and heard with interest
that the first whale had been seen. “ There
she blows,” sung out the captain ; but just as we all
rushed to the side the fountain of water disappeared,
and we were told that we had “ seen a whale.” I
can only add, that it was very like one. Towards
nine o’clock in the evening we sighted the Faroe
Isles, looming faintly through the mist, which for
about three hundred days in the year hangs like a
curtain over them. It was a ghostly and weird sight
as we neared the land a few hours later, in the dim
twilight, and passed between Stromoe and Naalsoe.
A cold mist settled on the water, and thick clouds
hung like a pall upon the cliffs, many of which are
eight hundred feet in height.
At midnight we cast anchor off Thorshaven, the
capital, in fact the only town on the Islands. It
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A Holiday in Iceland.
13
stands on a small tongue of land on the South-east
side of Stromoe. In spite of the lateness of the
hour the Governor lost no time in waiting upon us;
indeed, I should think the arrival of a steamer must
be quite a little excitement to that exile community,
for flags were soon flying from every little fishing
smack and every little building in the town. Our
attention was drawn to a small building rather
above the others, from which the Danish standard
floated, which we were informed was a fort.
Consul K-------wishing to know how it was that
no salute pased between the steamer and the fort,
the captain related how, when the Prince of Den-
mark visited Thorshaven some years ago, the fort
commenced firing a royal salute, but stopping short
in the middle the captain of the Prince’s vessel sent
ashore to ascertain the cause. “We have no more
powder,” answered the commandant. A supply was
sent, and the salute completed. “ Probably,” said
our captain in conclusion, “they are just in the
same plight now, even if the old guns will stand
firing.”
After breakfast a party of us went ashore, accept-
ing seats in Mr. Muller’s (the post-master) boat,
and landing with the mails. Quite an ovation, in
a small way, awaited us, the men all lifting their
caps, and in many cases standing uncovered while
we passed.
And now I must give you a slight description of
the dress of the Faroese. The men are habited in
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14
A Holiday in Iceland.
garments — I can hardly call them coats — of thick
coaise skin, with the fur-side out. In winter they
reverse the costume, and wear the fur inside. The
breeches are made of thick home-spun cloth, and the
the stockings, of which they show a good deal,
appear to be well knitted. The shoes are made of
skin, one piece only being used for each foot; and
the somewhat picturesque attire is completed by a
bright coloured cap, which falls gracefully over the
shoulders. This latter article deserves special men-
tion, as by it the social condition of the wearer is
seen. All married men wear scarlet, while bachelors
appear in bright blue.
I could not help thinking at the time how useful
it might sometimes prove if we had some such dis-
tinctive badge in England.
The dress of the ladies does not call for special
attention, excepting perhaps that the clothes are
worn rather shorter than propriety would allow
with us.
After leaving Mr. Muller, we wended our way
through the tortuous little streets towards the
church, to which we soon gained admittance.
It is a wooden structure, and boasts of such
ornamentation as is to be found in churches of the
not severe type of Protestantism. Over the altar
stands a picture (hardly a work of high art), and in
front a couple of homely brass candlesticks, such as
one sees sometimes on the chimney piece of an old-
fashioned kitchen ; but the most curious articles of
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A Holiday in Iceland.
15
furniture were the rows of spittoons along each pew.
Leaving the church, we entered into conversation
with some natives, that is to say, we made signs that
we wanted to go to a place called Kirkeboe, where
we had heard there was a noted ruin to be seen. We
soon found a guide, and having procured mountain
stocks commenced a somewhat difficult ascent to-
wards the interior of the Island. The man whom we
had chosen from the crowd of volunteers eager to
conduct us, went straight ahead at a good shamble-
half walk and half trot—until I was fain to cry out
for a rest. Quick walking over a rough country was
never my forte.
The scenery of the Faroe Isles presented a
strange contrast to the land we had left. Instead of
the valleys of corn, and plains timbered with the fine
trees of Old England, we found ourselves in a wild
country with little vegetation, and not a single tree
worthy of mention. But every land has beauties of
its own, and here are masses of grey rock rising in
every conceivable place, suggesting to the travellers
the idea of tall towers and castles, and when seen
through the hazy atmosphere the effect is grand
and even sublime. No sign of life was to be seen
as we advanced further into the barren country,
excepting a few ravens who sat solemn and immov-
able upon the summit of a rock, and appeared as
little afraid of us as we were of them. After about
two hours’ hard walking we again came in sight of
the sea; we had now quite crossed the island, and
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16 A Holiday in Iceland.
the place we had come to see lay some three hundred
feet below us. Tumbling and scrambling we soon
descended the hill, and entered the walls of a fine
old ruin of a large church, in the early English
style. The walls are massively built of stone, some
five feet thick, and the architecture is of a far
superior cast to anything now seen upon the island.
I could get no authentic information as to the history
of the place, but it seems to point to some remote
date, when civilisation must have been much farther
advanced there than it is now.
A small modern church stands near the ruin,
and in reply to my enquiry as to where the congrega-
tion came from, I was informed that the inhabitants
of the neighbouring isles met there, weather per-
mitting, about every fourth Sunday. To an English-
man, used to almost daily services, the idea of a
church where service is held only once a month, and
that not regularly, seems very curious, but when we
consider the hardships they must undergo, the sea
journey, the difficulties of embarking and disembark-
ing, the wonder is, not that they meet so seldom but
that they ever try to meet at all. For instance, the
inhabitants of Dimon can only leave their island
home by means of rope ladders down the perpen-
dicular cliffs.
The bracing air and long walk had by this time
given us all good appetites, and we turned with
longing eyes towards the solitary farm which stands
there. Had it not been for the barking of the dogs
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A Holiday in Iceland.
*7
which brought out the proprietor, we might have had
to return to Thorshaven unrefreshed, but the farmer,
with true native politeness, immediately ordered
coffee to be brought, which you may be sure we
received thankfully enough.
It was four o’clock in the afternoon before we
reached Thorshaven again, more hungry than ever,
and by this time fairly tired out. Our guide took us
to a little inn, where we found that two of our fellow
passengers—the gentlemen from Oxford—had taken
up their quarters, and, what was more important to
us, were just sitting down to a good dinner. In less
time than it takes to tell we were seated beside them,
and having got through a goodly supply of sweet
soup, we betook ourselves to a large tureen of boiled
sea parrots. And indeed, if you could only manage
to forget the fishy taste which they possess, their is
no better dinner going.
After a short rest, Fred started out to try and
bag a few brace of birds, while G------------and I
explored the town. The streets or alleys of Thors-
haven are built as irregularly as it is possible to
conceive, with open sewers along the sides, over
which it is necessary to take a flying leap before
entering a house. The buildings are entirely of
wood, with the exception of the roofs which are
covered with peat over which a kind of moss grows
thickly, so that when seen from a distance it is
difficult to distinguish the town from the hill which
rises close to. Beneath the eaves, which are
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18 A Holiday in Iceland.
overhanging, strings are fastened from which the
provisions for winter are hung to dry, and not
very tempting do they look, consisting principally of
small fish almost resembling catgut, or else of pieces
of whale flesh, looking and smelling not unlike what
I should think a piece of beef would that had
been kept too long. The people, however, appear
contented and happy, and I must give them credit
for keeping their houses scrupulously neat and clean
inside. There appears to be no division of trades ;
every man is his own tailor, weaver, builder, fisher,
and bird-catcher. There is very little currency in
the town, the surplus produce of feathers, train
oil, &c., being exchanged for more luxurious articles
from Denmark.
Fred had just returned with the shooting party,
when news arrived that a large school of whales had
been seen on the north side, and a grand scene of
excitement and confusion ensued. In less than an
hour two hundred men and boys were ready to start
off in pursuit. We were just bargaining to be
taken with them, when the gun was fired from the
Phonix, and we were obliged regretfully to return.
Two hours passed away, and we were once more
on our way to Iceland, straining our eyes in vain to
catch a last glimpse of the disappearing whaling
fleet.
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CHAPTER III.
HE number of our passengers was now con-
siderably reduced, so General C—-------------,
and his friend E----------, arranged with
G-------, Fred, and myself, to form one party, to
join all provisions together, in fact, to become
brothers during our brief sojourn in the far North.
A succession of strong head winds, with a rough
sea, prevented the Phonix from making anything like
a rapid journey, and it was not until Wednesday, the
seventh day of the voyage, that we obtained our first
view of the glaciers of Iceland. The wind coming
straight from the snow-covered wastes of Vatna
Jokull, was bitterly cold, but we had the advantage
of broad daylight up to eleven o’clock at night, and
the welcome news that we should probably reach
Reykjavik on the morrow made us insensible to
temporary inconvenience. It would be about seven
o’clock on the following morning when we were
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20
A Holiday in Iceland.
*-
called on deck to witness a remarkable sight. It was
the summit of Vatna Jokull, and formed a most
impressive picture as we then saw it. A dense
mass of clouds hung above and below the mountain,
while through a break we saw the dazzling glacier,
upon which the sun shone with extraordinary bril-
liancy, throwing rays of variegated colour over the
surrounding darkness, and seemingly giving us a
glimpse into a world beyond. A few moments more
and the curtain closed upon the fairy-like scene.
G--------• was the first to break the silence which
had fallen upon all—“ I say, boys, I am awfully
hungry.” Withering looks were cast upon him as
he strode off to the cabin to refresh the inner man ;
nevertheless, we were not long in following his
example, and soon a very merry party sat down to
breakfast. In another hour we were passing close
to the Westmann Isles, a group of barren rocks
lying off the South coast of Iceland, and for a few
minutes stopped at Hermaey, or Home Island, which
is the only one inhabited. The manner in which this
place was peopled deserves, mention, more especially
as the first settlers came from the British Isles. In
the year eight hundred and seventy-five a Norwegian
pirate, cruising off the coast of Ireland, landed and
carried away with him some fifty men, women and
children, but before he could reach his destination,
the prisoners rose en masse, slew their captors,
and landed at the first place they came to. This
happened to be the largest of the Westmann Isles,
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I
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A Holiday in Iceland.
21
and that name was given them by the Icelanders, as
these people came from the West. A precipitous
path leads to the top of the rock, where a little
hamlet, with its church, stands two thousand feet
above the ocean.
In response to the gun fired from the steamer a
small boat put off, and amid rude cries of welcome
the few mails were landed, together with a box con-
taining live hares from Europe, sent at the special
request of the inhabitants, probably with a wish to
introduce a new article of diet, flesh meat of all
kinds being very scarce among them.
Our course now lay through a narrow channel
between rocks, which on each side rise perpendicu-
larly to a great altitude. In places the formation
reminded me of Fingal’s Cave or Giant’s Causeway,
but instead of being a hundred and fifty or two
hundred feet in height the immense columns here
rise nearly half-a-mile above the sea. At this wild
place the steam whistle was turned on, and the
effect was like that of a magician’s wand. From
the desolate rocks myriads of sea birds rose, com-
pletely darkening the air, and by their shrill and
discordant cries adding a new feature to the wildness
of the scene.
A favourable wind now springing up, all sail was
crowded to reach our destination ; but the voyager
to Reykjavik sees land long before he comes ashore.
He must cruise a long way to the Westward, and
double a long cape, before the much wished-for
B
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22 A Holiday in Iceland.
harbour can be gained. The coast in this part is
rocky and dangerous. Solitary peaks of volcanic
origin stand far out in the sea, making navigation
an exceedingly difficult matter.
Through a telescope we saw a number of moving
forms on Cape Reykianes, and were told that the
Danish Government was busy erecting the first
lighthouse on this solitary land. No slight task
will they find it indeed, both because the stone has
all to be taken on horseback some fifty miles over
a rugged and mountainous country from Reykjavik,
and the timber has to be brought .still further,
coming as it does from Norway.
About eleven o’clock that evening we ap-
proached Reykjavik harbour, and were immediately
boarded by a pilot, who, however, seemed to trouble
himself very little about taking us in safely, for after
a few moments’ conversation, he was comfortably
seated in the saloon enjoying a glass of grog. I
wondered, at the time, why the captain should think
it necessary to have him on board, but I aftei'wards
heard that his fee had to be paid by every vessel
entering or leaving the harbour whether its captain
knew the passage or not. Our captain no doubt
thinking it would be a pity to hurt the poor man’s
feelings allowed him to come, and gave him some-
thing to drink into the bargain. At midnight we
cast anchor, and, though the twilight was insufficient
for us to see much of our surroundings, still we had
plenty of visitors. It is true the Governor did not
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A Holiday in Iceland.
23
then favour us with a call, but our saloon was soon
filled by the officers of the French and Danish Gun-
boats, stationed there during the Summer for the
protection of the fisheries. A very lively party they
formed as they sat smoking and chatting till nearly
breakfast time. Of course the British were repre-
sented amongst the party of visitors. Hearing that
some Englishmen were on board, Mr. Patterson
(where will you not find a Scotchman ?) put off in
a punt, and, above the joking and laughter in the
saloon, was distinctly heard a stentorian voice
crying, “ Hey, laddies, throw us a rope.” In
another moment he was with us, and very useful to
us he turned out to be, knowing, as he did, nearly
everyone in the place, and, what was more impor-
tant, understanding the language. He informed us
that he was engaged in the sulphur districts, and
that although the occupation and society of the
place was not over pleasant, still it was sufficiently
remunerative to keep him there a few years longer.
We told him all the latest news from Europe, and
gave him some newspapers, which must have been
truly a luxury to him. In return, he recommended
us to a place to take up our quarters on shore, and,
after giving us some hints as to the mode of pro-
cedure in engaging guides and horses, bade us a
hearty good night, and was soon paddling back to
shore, while we tried to get a few hours’ sleep, it
being then nearly three o’clock.
A little legal matter detained us after breakfast a
| |
24
A Holiday in Iceland.
short time. Fred, after hearing about the dangerous
travelling so graphically described by Mr. Patterson,
thought it might be advisable to make his will before
landing; so G--------- immediately set to work, and
the interesting document, along with all our valuable
papers, was soon in the safe keeping of the captain.
We were then rowed ashore, with trunks and port-
manteaux, in a smart shower of rain.
| |
CHAPTER IV.
S the keel of the boat grated on the shore,
G--------, anxious to be first to land, sprang
hurriedly forward, but, missing his footing,
fell heavily and measured his length on the soft
muddy beach. Whether the natives thought it part
of the programme I cannot say, but not a muscle
moved on any of their faces as our friend picked him-
self up and make an ineffectual attempt to shake
himself free of his miry covering. Our hearty laugh-
ter seemed not in the least to discompose him, for he
coolly picked up his luggage, and, followed by us,
made his way through the motley crowd which had
gathered to witness our landing.
As we entered the Custom House Shed a tall
lean man, habited in a long fur coat with cap of
the same material, met us, and I had no difficulty
in recognising Zoega, the guide to whom Patterson
had recommended us. He informed us that the
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26
A Holiday in Iceland.
principal inn would not be large enough to accom-
modate our whole party (five), so the General and
E------- went into private lodgings. After seeing
them safely housed, G----------, Fred, and myself,
followed Zoega to the “hotel,” where we were much
more comfortably entertained than ever we had
dared to hope, having a sitting-room and two bed-
rooms. Of course we had no carpets, but the
furniture, what there was of it, was very tolerable,
and the beds really comfortable, being of eider-
down with covering of the same material. Fred
and I agreed to occupy a double-bedded room,
while G-------- was quite content with a small
apartment leading from the parlour.
We very soon sallied forth, and calling for the
others commenced, as Englishmen always will do,
to explore the town, and see whatever was to be
seen.
Our first care was to go to the Post-office and
despatch our letters, though, as it transpired, we
need not have hurried so, for we got back to
England again just as soon as our letters did. We
had forgotten that no steamer would leave for
another fortnight, and then it would take us and
our letters as well. G--------- completely won the
heart of the Post-office official by purchasing a
specimen of every stamp he had in stock; but I
think I completely puzzled him by asking for a
“ post card.” One might as well have asked him to
send a telegraphic message.
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A Holiday in Iceland.
27
Zoega then procured the keys of the church, or
rather cathedral, for it is the Bishop of Iceland’s
church. The building is of timber, and the interior
is very neat and in some degree ornamental; but
the great object of interest is the marble font, beauti-
fully carved by Thorvaldsen, and presented by him
to Iceland, perhaps from a feeling of reverence to it,
as being the country of his ancestors.
The library and museum are situated in the roof
of the cathedral. The former contains some three
thousand volumes, including some works written
eight hundred years ago, and doubly interesting to
the Icelander, as he can read them without difficulty,
the language not having perceptibly altered during
that time, a fact which is due no doubt to the very
slight intercourse Iceland has had with the far off
world.
In the museum are many articles of very fine
workmanship, and remnants of arts now apparently
quite lost to the natives. In fact, every thing there
points to the unhappy truth that the Icelanders
as a race are going every year backward. I stated
that, as my opinion, to the keeper, and though he
was unable totally to deny it, yet he attempted to
modify my assertion by stating that he thought
civilisation in Iceland had for a long time remained
stationary, while it had rapidly developed in other
countries.
Leaving the cathedral, we proceeded to make
some purchases, as I was particularly in want of
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28
A Holiday in Iceland.
oil-skins and head-gear. Each store keeps a mis-
cellaneous selection of goods, and is presided over by
Danes, who come out in the spring of the year, and
return to Europe again in the winter.
The articles we purchased were not dear, though
the style would hardly have done for English wear,
but I was at least satisfied that I was water-proof,
for when I issued forth again, clothed in bright
yellow, a regular Arctic storm of rain and hail had
commenced.
The General’s lodgings being close at hand we
adjourned there until the weather should clear, and
while speculating upon how long the squall would
last, the landlord ushered in a visitor. The worthy
man who came to make our acquaintance was Mr.
Matthias Jochumssen, editor of the fortnightly news-
paper published at Reykjavik, and as he spoke very
fair English, proved himself an interesting com-
panion. He informed me that he and many others
of the inhabitants could trace their descent some
eleven hundred years back, to the first settlers on
the Island, and was giving me some interesting
details of the history of the country, when another
visitor appeared — Dr. HjaTefan — to whom the
General had letters of introduction.
An animated discussion followed upon the geo-
logical formation of the country, until, leaving the
General to entertain the doctor, the friendly editor
and myself went to see the school, which is sup-
ported by Government for the exclusive use of
candidates for the church.
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A Holiday in Iceland.
2Q
To find a country so large as Iceland with only
one school is at first sight rather surprising to a
stranger, and the natural inference which he would
draw would be that the people are very poorly
educated. But in reality quite the contrary is the
case. In the long winter evenings the father
teaches his children, and they again teach their
children in turn, and it is exceedingly rare to find
even a child who cannot read and write with ease,
while the traveller often meets with persons who
both speak and write Latin, and have a good general
knowledge of the classics. The school which we
visited contains several good class rooms, and has
about eighty pupils, some of whom board there
while the rest live with their friends in the town.
No fees are charged, as the school is supported by
the Danish Government, but assurance is required
that each pupil will turn his knowledge to the best
account.
It was evening before we returned to the inn,
and being near dinner time we began to wonder
what would be set before us, and were agreeably
surprised at the good cheer our worthy landlord had
prepared. He had evidently been trying to procure
us an English dinner, and had it not been for the
“sweet soup” would have very nearly succeeded.
Our comfortable repast ended with a cup of
excellent coffee, after which we strolled out and
had a fine view of Snaefell Jokull, apparently far
out at sea.
Long after I had retired to rest sleep refused to
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30
A Holiday in Iceland.
come to my aid, for, with my bed near the window,
I lay long enjoying the romantic view across the
bay, backed by the snow-covered hills on which the
sun still lingered as though loth to depart.
Next morning I awoke with the feeling that
some one was in the room, and in another moment
I became aware that our host’s pretty daughter was
approaching my bedside. In spite of my surprise, I
could not help thinking what a pretty picture she
made, dressed in the national costume with the
picturesque “ faldr ” or head-dress falling gracefully
to the waist, as she smiled a pleasant good morning,
and handed me a cup of coffee with cake. I glanced
across at Fred’s bed, and laughed to see him
rubbing his eyes, and wondering whether what he
saw was reality or a vision ; but his mind was soon
set at rest on that point, for the same kind office was
performed for him, and as the door closed upon our
fairy visitor, we both sat up and heartily enjoyed the
early breakfast so unexpectedly brought.
Being Sunday, we all attended service at the
Cathedral, at the conclusion of which I mounted to
the organ loft and played a voluntary on the little
old-fashioned organ. The congregation was not
large, being “Danish” Sunday. Service is read
in Icelandic and Danish each alternate week.
We met a number of the congregation afterwards
wending their way homewards, and our progress
was one continued acknowledgement of their polite
salutations.
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A Holiday in Iceland.
3i
After an early dinner, I started with Fred to take
a walk up the country, and at a short distance in the
rear of the town we came to a stone tower of
modern construction, having the appearance of a
land-mark or “look-out” post. As the entrance
door stood invitingly open we marched in, and
ascending to the top enjoyed an extensive view of
the country around.
At our feet lay the capital of the country we
had come so far to see; the streets are broad and
run at right angles, while the open sewers reminded
me again of Thorshaven. The buildings being all
of timber give the town a somewhat new appear-
ance, and it is difficult to l'ealise the fact that
Reykjavik was built so long ago as 750 A.D.
As I glanced around the l'ugged and barren
country, I didn’t wonder at the grumbling of Ingolf’s
followers when he announced his intention of settling
there. For, in conformity with the superstitious
practice common in those days, he had, on approach-
ing the coast, cast the timber of his foi'mer habita-
tion into the sea, and declared his intention of
settling wherever it was cast ashore. His men
afterwards discovei'ed it high and dry on the spot
whei'e Reykjavik now stands, and true to his oath
there he settled, in spite of the l'eproaches of his
people for not choosing a more fertile district. In
the tower in which we found ourselves ti'aces of
foi'mer English visitors are easily discovered, for in
the wooden ledges ai'e ample signs of the pen-knife
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32
A Holiday in Iceland.
having been busily at work, and several well-known
English names bear witness to their owners having
come northwards.
As I have already stated an extensive view is to
be obtained from the summit, so that we had plenty
of choice as to which way we should turn our
footsteps. After a little discussion, we decided to
take a short cut across country to a piece of inland
water, which looked very inviting, about three miles
distant. Our road at first was across a rocky desert,
which after awhile gave place to a turfy ground,
where the peat had been gathered in heaps and was
left drying over slow fires.
These turf fields are invaluable in a country like
Iceland, for not only do they supply the fuel during
the long dreary winter, but they supply coverings
for the houses, and keep them warm and dry when
the snow lies deep on the roofs.
Fred had just drawn my attention to a little
plant of the cotton species, and was wondering
whether it might not be turned to some use in the
spinning line, when, without a sign of warning, we
found ourselves up to our knees in q. bog. VVe
waded as well as we could, and took refuge on a
kind of hillock about two feet high. Not wishing to
be daunted by such a slight mishap as dirty boots,
we determined to continue our walk, but our walk
had now become nothing but a series of jumps from
one island to another, until at length, tired with such
unwonted exercise, we were fain to remove our lower
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A Holiday in Iceland.
33
garments and retrace our steps with as good a grace
as possible. It was lucky for us that we met no one,
for even the grave Icelander’s risible faculties must
have been greatly excited had we been seen in so
sorry a plight.
When we returned to the inn I found Zoega
had appeared with the saddle-bags, or rather boxes,
and had brought us one each to pack our traps in,
as he thought it advisable to start for Thingvalla
early next morning.
All retired early that night, and noticed with
pleasure the cloudless sky which seemed to portend
settled fine weather, but at six o’clock next morning,
when in response to a gentle shaking I opened my
eyes, it was to discover the bay in a terrible
commotion from the heavy gale which was blowing ;
the pattering of the rain, too, on the windows,
plainly announced that no travelling would be
possible that day.
It was, in fact, a downright wet day, such as
Iceland is only too often visited with in the summer.
The wind had veered round to the Sou’-west, and
was bringing heavy masses of cloud, which literally
flew across a leaden sky. We sat long over break-
fast, disconsolately gazing at the dreary landscape
until I could stand it no longer, so jumping up I
donned my oilskins, and, followed by Fred, sallied
forth into the storm.
It was anything but a lively day for walking, but
it was still less lively sitting in-doors, and when we
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34
A Holiday in Iceland.
really were fairly started, we began to a certain
extent to enjoy ourselves. Finding our way to the
sea shore we turned southwards, and, after rounding
the bay, climbed over a steep headland, and rested in
a small cave near the sea. As we turned in a large
flock of birds, which I soon recognised as eider
ducks, turned out.
The eider duck, from it habits, constitutes an
article of great wealth to the natives, and one of
the principal articles of export is the eider-down,
which is gathered from the nests of the birds.
Early in June these birds collect in large numbers,
and begin to build on the ground or in small
hollows or caves, as was the case with the colony
we had just disturbed. The nests are formed of
grass and down, which the bird plucks from her
breast, and whenever she leaves to feed, which
she usually does at low water for the sake of the
shell-fish, she first carefully covers the eggs with
down, to prevent them becoming cold. At this
time these birds lose all their wildness, and suffer
the inhabitants to approach the nests, and even
to touch them, in fact, so tame do they become
that the government has thought it necessary to pass
a law, making it a penal offence to take or injure a
bird during the breeding season ; but the Icelander
need not be told of the value of the eider duck, and
the law, in that respect, is seldom broken. As soon
as the young ones leave the nest and reach the
water, the eider duck becomes as wild as any other
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A Holiday in Iceland. 35
bird, and in about two months it disappears, and is
seen no more until the following spring.
In the friendly cave we stayed some time, and,
while devoutly wishing for better weather, could not
be insensible to the wild grandeur of the scene
produced by a storm on the Icelandic coast. The
enormous waves rolled boldly in, and, breaking upon
the iron-bound coast, fell back in showers of spray
with a deafening roar, the atmosphere meanwhile one
moment hazy and the next so clear as to show to
our astonished gaze ranges of rugged mountains
capped with eternal snow, miles and miles away.
I sat in a dreamy state, watching the ever-varying
scene, until Fred drew my attention to the fact that
it had ceased raining and was getting near dinner
time, so we rapidly retraced our steps, and took
refuge in the little sitting-room once more.
The afternoon passed uneventfully away, and
with the exception of assisting to despatch two small
whales on the shore, nothing occurred worthy of
mention. In the evening Zoega called upon us, and,
after a council of war, all decided upon starting the
following morning, wet or dry.
| |
CHAPTER V.
HE morning broke with a cloudless sky, and
punctually at eight o’clock we presented
ourselves at the General’s lodgings, from
which place our expedition was to start. In a few
minutes Zoega appeared with a drove of twenty-five
horses and ponies. Nine of the former were saddled
and bridled, five being for our use and four for Zoega
and the three men he seemed to think it necessary to
take as assistants. Seven ponies were required to
carry the tents and provisions, and nine extra horses
were taken to act as a relief to those we rode upon.
And now I must digress for a moment to say a
word in favour of the much-abused Icelandic horses.
We had expected, from the accounts written of these
animals, to discover a set of broken-winded, broken-
kneed quadrupeds, ready to tumble down or shy at
every obstacle they came to, and were agreeably
surprised to find a race of stout little animals, who
performed long journeys over rough country without
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A Holiday in Iceland.
37
shewing the least sign of fatigue, and who went
with little or no food for long periods together.
Complaints have often been made that they are not
sure-footed, but I think the animals that can
cross Iceland without stumbling are not yet in
existence.
Our luncheon for the first day we carried in our
pockets, so as to avoid unpacking the baggage
horses until the halt for the night.
We looked to our pipes and tobacco, of which we
had a good supply, and as Zoega sprang into the
saddle we followed his example (I in a more cautious
manner), and set off at a smart canter, followed by
the admiring gaze of a crowd of small boys who had
assembled to see the cavalcade depart.
The relief horses trotted gaily on in front, Zoega
came next, and we followed in an irregular string,
while the baggage animals were far in the rear with
the attendants, who indeed had no sinecure, for the
ponies seemed to have the greatest possible pleasure
in endeavouring to smash the packages by banging
them against each other. Occasionally they tried to
get through places considerably too narrow for them
and became jammed between rocks, when a very
lively scene ensued before they could be released.
We, however, had nothing to do with that, but
trotted gaily on, having perfect confidence in the
men being able to bring our provisions up to time.
So far all went well, the road being for the first
five miles tolerably level and free from stones, while
c
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38
A Holiday in Iceland.
the exhilarating motion through the keen air was
highly enjoyable—well mounted as we all were.
As we proceeded further the road grew narrow,
and the cavalcade formed a picturesque sight mount-
ing in straggling order a rocky path, the summit of
which having been gained showed us far below the
winding course of the Laxa River.
This river, as it name signifies, is the finest
salmon stream in Iceland, and as I looked down
upon its sparkling little cascades and deep sheltered
pools I thought of some absent friends to whom
such a sight would be indeed a welcome one,
promising good fishing without the necessity of
taking out a license, and without the annoyance of
constantly coming across poaching keepers on the
banks.
Our sure-footed little animals soon brought us
down the hill, when a halt was made for a few
minutes, which gave us an opportunity of stretching
our legs, and allowed the horses a snatch of grass.
From this place I lost all trace of a road of any
kind, and the river having a serpentine course forced
us to cross and re-cross several times. Now it was
that the oil-skin trousers came in so useful, for
the splashing of the horses was so considerable
that without them we should soon have been wet
through.
By degrees I learnt the native practice of
guiding my horse with my knees, and soon dis-
covered that to make him canter only required me
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A Holiday in Iceland.
39
to swing my legs about (perhaps not in a very
elegant fashion but still useful, as it makes quite
unnecessary the use of the whip).
The country through which we passed was not
beautiful in the ordinary sense of the word, but the
mode of travelling was a novelty, and ever and anon
we had the little excitement of galloping after the
relief horses and whipping them in, as they seemed
to have a strong inclination to shirk the journey and
return to Reykjavik.
At mid-day a halt of an hour took place, during
which time we refreshed ourselves with a light
luncheon, while Zoega busied himself with changing
the saddles and bridles, as he thought it now time
the other horses should have a share of work.
The place at which we halted was a fertile little
glade between two dark hills, watered by a silvery
brook. The grass which grew in profusion formed
a pleasant contrast to the sterile mountain-paths
which we had followed. Our horses showed their
appreciation of the place by rolling about in a frolic-
some manner, not at all calculated to improve the
saddles or harness.
As we rode off again I began to have some slight
misgivings that my new horse was not quite so sure-
footed as the previous animal 1 had ridden, but after
a while I attributed the occasional trippings to the
unevenness of the roads, if the trackless wilderness
in which we found ourselves can be dignified by
such a name.
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40
A Holiday in Iceland,
We were now crossing a high table-land, and a
more solitary desert it was never my lot to see.
As far as the eye could reach in every direction
stretched an unbroken level of black rocky earth,
and blocks of lava continually rolling from under the
horses’ hoofs made riding a most precarious practice.
In a moment of inattention (I believe I was rolling a
cigarette) I slackened the reins, and, my horse
stumbling, failed to recover himself, and down we
came together in a heap.
As I saw Zoega hurrying to my assistance,
gloomy forebodings of broken collar bones flashed
across my mind, but, luckily, though slightly bruised,
no bones were broken, and in a few minutes we once
more pressed onward as though no such slight
casualty had happened. I suppose we must have
travelled about twenty miles over this unsightly
plain, • when Zoega, who was some distance in
advance, suddenly reined in his horse, and as we
galloped up to see the reason of the unexpected halt,
we found our further progress stopped by a totally
unlooked-for obstacle.
At our feet was a chasm some two hundred feet
in depth and about sixty feet across. It was the
famous Almanna Dagh or All Men’s chasm. This
extraordinary rent in the earth extends many miles
in either direction with curious uniformity in both
height and breadth. At one point a mighty river
dashes over the precipice forming a splendid cascade,
and a little further on it mysteriously disappears
| |
| |
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A Holiday in Iceland. 41
again through a chink in the opposite wall, and finds
an outlet at last in Thingvalla Lake.
The lake, which we now plainly saw from our
elevated position, is a fine sheet of water, fully ten
miles each way, interspersed with picturesque islets,
and bounded on the opposite side by a lofty range of
volcanic mountains.
A short distance from us, on the opposite side of
the chasm, stands the little church and parsonage
which was to be the termination of our first day’s
journey. We looked at the place and were thankful
that it was no further off, for a kind of stiffness was
beginning to be felt all round, and for my part,
though I complained little, yet 1 felt it—sorely.
At length Zoega, dismounting, commenced to
lead his horse down the two hundred feet precipice,
stepping from crag to crag as nimbly as a cat. We
followed one by one, sometimes leading the horses
and then in turn being led by them, until all safely
reached the bottom, and gazed up in wondrous
astonishment at the apparently impossible track by
which we had descended. From this lower level
there is presented a splendid piece of savage scenery,
such as can only be seen in Iceland. I know of no
place in any other land which can compare with it,
and it failed to remind me of any locality I had ever
visited. After proceeding about a mile along this
strange defile, our conductor led us through a kind
of chink in the wall, which brought us into open
country once more.
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42
A Holiday in Iceland.
We were now in Thingvalla, with nothing
separating us from a night’s rest but the river before
mentioned. No boat was visible and the water
looked deep, but there was nothing for it except to
proceed with the adventure and take the bad with
the good, so one after another we plunged in, and
reached the opposite shore thoroughly drenched but
otherwise in good condition. At the little wooden
church we dismounted, and, leaving the horses to
Zoega’s care, took refuge in the sanctuary, to await
patiently the arrival of dry clothes, when the other
part of our cavalcade should come up.
I stretched myself on one of the little wooden
forms, and began to speculate how I should feel
next morning after sleeping on such hard boards.
By way of experiment I was composing myself for a
nap, when Zoega entered with the astounding news
that the church had been already promised to
another party, who had taken the precaution to write
for it, and whose arrival now was momentarily
expected. Had it been an English party for whom
the church was reserved I should not have troubled
much about it, feeling sure of a good reception at
their hands, but it was a party of Danes. When,
moreover, we heard that ladies as well as gentlemen
were expected, we concluded that there was nothing
for it but to turn out and prepare our tents on the
ground.
The prospect was not inviting, for a cold wind
had sprung up, and rain was falling heavily as we
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A Holiday in Iceland.
43
made our exit, and the more fortunate people took
possession. Our bodies as well as our spirits
were considerably damped, for during all this time
we had wet clothes on, thanks to the high state of
the river we had come through. In our trouble, the
good pastor sent out word that his best room in the
hut, or rather parsonage, was at our disposal, and
you may imagine the joy with which his invitation
was received, tempting visions of a good fire and dry
clothes floating before our minds as we followed our
conductor into the house. Other reasons, besides
bodily comfort, made me anxious to get in-doors. I
was curious to see the interior, and a little of the
manners and customs of the genuine Icelandic
home, and this occasion promised me complete
success. The door opened into a kind of lumber
room floored only by nature, and now, owing to the
rain, not over dry. Around was piled our luggage,
for the baggage horses had in the meantime arrived.
The walls consisted merely of turf blocks without
covering of any kind, and the ceiling was too low for
G-------to stand upright. I glanced at the
General; “Surely this is not the best room,” he
seemed to say. It was not. Nevertheless it was
the room our kind-hearted host was himself com-
pelled to occupy.
We were now conducted along a passage
branching off to the left, which brought us into a
comparatively comfortable apartment containing a
bed, sofa, table, and some chairs. This room I
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44
A Holiday in Iceland.
noticed was floored with timber, and the walls
covered with the same material. Here we had
nothing to fear except want of ventilation, as the
one small window would not open, and the ceiling,
as in the other room, was anything but lofty.
After changing our damp clothes, G-------and I
went to see what could be got in the supper line,
and made a raid upon some of the tinned soups,
which we gave to our host’s daughters to prepare.
But now a new difficulty arose. The young ladies,
never having seen anything of the kind before, were
puzzled to know what to do with them, so, con-
cluding that the best thing would be personally to
superintend the culinary department, G——— and I
commenced groping our way along a subterranean
passage towards the kitchen.
Here a romantic sight rewarded us, and I think
amply repaid me for the blow I gave my head on
entering. Around a peat fire burning on a heap of
stones in the centre of the room stood a group of
four young girls busily employed preparing a meal
of some kind. No daylight visited this remote
apartment, and the reflection from the glowing
embers falling upon the picturesque costumes and
happy faces of the group formed a pretty picture as
well as an interesting one.
As we entered, one of the young ladies, with
perfect self possession, handed the blow-bellows to
G-------, while I endeavoured to explain to her the
mysteries of hare soup, and a very merry party we
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A Holiday in Iceland.
45
were, trying vainly to understand each other’s lan-
guage. Not a word could we make out until
G--------discovered that they understood Latin, so
in a dead language the conversation was carried on,
principally, I must confess, without my taking much
part in it, for my classical knowledge has not greatly
increased since I left school.
Well, at last supper was ready, and the soup
really was excellent, at least all pronounced it so,
and partook of it very freely.
Before retiring, Fred and I, leaving the rest to
the enjoyment of whist with a “ dummy,” took a
stroll around the exterior of the house, and I then
discovered what I had more than suspected, that
the back portion consisted merely of a hollow made
in the side of a hill. This satisfactorily explained
the want of light and air, as, of course, there are no
windows, and nothing is seen to suggest a house
until you arrive at the front door. The idea seems
curious, but I afterwards discovered that most of
the farm houses in Iceland are built on the same
principle.
What an exciting day this was for Thingvalla.
In a place where visitors are not seen sometimes
by the year together, a large party was lodged in
the church, our people had possession of the house,
and, to crown all, another cavalcade was now seen
cautiously descending into the chasm.
Our curiosity was raised as to who the new
comers could be, until their re-appearance from the
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46
A Holiday in Iceland.
river showed us a jolly party of midshipmen, with the
captain and lieutenant of the French War Boat,
with whom, as you will remember, we had already
become acquainted on board the Phonix.
They were uproariously glad to see us, and,
pitching their commodious tent close to our lodgings,
constant intercourse was kept up until a feeling of
fatigue warned all parties that it was time to think of
sleep.
We managed to settle down in one part or
other of the room, each wherever he could make
himself most comfortable. As to G---------------, he
stretched himself on the floor and covered no small
part of it.
Next morning I was first stirring, and, after
washing in the river discovered a small crazy boat,
by means of which I crossed, and, entering the
Almanna Dagh, proceeded along the defile towards
the splendid waterfall.
A sharp walk of about a mile brought me to the
roaring torrent, which falls a distance of two hundred
feet with a noise resembling artillery. The scene
was one of rudejnature in its wildest aspect, and not
a livingjcreature was visible as I slowly retraced my
steps. No bird greeted the fresh morning air with a
note of welcome, and no busy insect was heard
humming about. All around was deathly and still
as though the terrible convulsions which had formed
the chasm and literally opened the very earth had
but lately occurred instead of centuries ago.
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A Holiday in Iceland.
47
Musing on the wonders of this strange land I
omitted to notice that my boat had disappeared from
the place where I had left it, and as I began to
consider how I should get back thoughts of my
friends enjoying a warm breakfast made me feel
ravenously hungry, so I commenced a hurried search
for the missing punt. At last I saw it slowly
rounding a bend in the river and rowed by our fair
caterer of the previous evening—the young Latin
scholar.
As she pulled alongside the block of lava on
which I stood I noticed that she was not the sole
occupant of the boat, but had some half-dozen fine
fish, the smallest of which must have weighed con-
siderably over six pounds. This satisfactorily
explained the disappearance of the boat. She had
been busy looking after the breakfasts while my
friends were quietly slumbering.
I heartily enjoyed my little run down the river,
and reached the cottage just in time to see Fred
coming out rubbing his eyes and wondering where
on earth I had got to.
During the preparing of the fish for breakfast I
noticed that the heads were cut off and thrown away.
Wondering to see such waste in so thrifty a house-
hold, I asked Zoega why they did not serve up the
heads with the other part of the fish, telling him that
we generally considered them the best part. To my
surprise he informed me that these fish heads
constituted the chief, in fact, almost the only food of
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A Holiday in Iceland.
the horses during the winter, when no fodder is to be
had, and when in the hard frost not a blade of grass
is to be seen. I had heard of horses eating each
others tails off, but horses living on fish was quite a
new experience.
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CHAPTER VI.
E decided to spend the day in Thingvalla,
and push on to the geysers early next
morning. So after breakfast we sallied
forth to visit the Althing, which is situated about a
mile from the cottage.
The Althing is a small grassy plateau, sur-
rounded on three sides by a fearful chasm some
twenty feet wide and of unknown depth.
In parts the river Axis is seen some hundred feet
below, and in others nothing is visible but impene-
trable darkness. The whole region is honey-combed
by crevices apparently bottomless, and a feeling of
awe creeps over the bravest as his onward march is
arrested, and he finds himself on the brink of one of
these terrible gulfs.
From this spot, inaccessible to their enemies,
the ancient law-givers thundered forth their stern
decrees. Into this chasm were thrown the unhappy
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A Holiday in Iceland.
wretches who had incurred their displeasure; on
this plateau were burned all those convicted of
witchcraft and necromancy; and here Christianity
was formally accepted by order of the Althing.
Later on in the day, Fred, E-------, and myself,
went out for a ride, picking three of the best horses
for the trip. Zoega accompanied us as far as the
river, pointing out a place where we could ford with-
out difficulty. E------was first to enter the water,
Fred and I following close at his heels. All went
well until we were in the centre of the river, when
I noticed that E-------was leaning over rather too
much to the left side. Suddenly he startled us with
a loud yell. His saddle was gradually slipping, and
as he saw the inevitable result would be at least
a good ducking, volumes of language, uncompli-
mentary to Icelandic saddlers in general, floated
through the quiet air. At last the splash came,
Fred and I nearly rolling out of our saddles with
laughter to see him disappear bodily and emerge
again—minus his hat. He had had enough, and
waded slowly back, leaving us to continue our ride
alone.
Turning our horses’ heads in the direction of the
lake we proceeded at a sharp canter some six miles,
just to get in good condition for the next day’s
riding, which we expected would be heavy, having
heard from Zoega that it would be all across very
rough ground.
The scenery around the lake is bold, but entirely
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A Holiday in Iceland. 51
devoid of all vegitation. In the quiet waters the
precipitous mountains, with their snow-covered
summits, were shown with amazing distinctness;
but everywhere the same utter absence of life pre-
vailed, as though fertility had forgotton to visit this
remote part of the universe.
Six o’clock next morning saw us once more pre-
paring to march, or rather trot. Our kind friend,
the pastor, was stirring, and busied himself with the
pack-horses, tying saddle girths, and making himself
generally useful. The good-hearted fellow would
ask for no remuneration, and actually blushed like
a girl when the General pressed him to receive a
present from the party. He, however, pocketed the
“ affront,” saying it should be put by towards his
daughters’ marriage portions.
The mention of his daughters made me look
round and wonder what had become of them, and
how it was they were not present to see us off;
G-------also was nowhere to be seen.
Suddenly it flashed across my mind. Slipping
into the house I groped my way to the kitchen, and
there sure enough was G--------taking a last look at
the place, and a farewell of the young ladies. In
another moment we reappeared together, knocking
our heads as though by common consent. Shortly
afterwards the cavalcade was once more on its way
winding slowly up the hill.
G-------cast more than one longing glance
backward, and a waving handkerchief was occasion-
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52
A Holiday in Iceland.
ally to be seen until a turn in the road took us out of
sight of that cottage, which I think we shall always
look back upon with pleasure.
I should have mentioned that the Danish party
had started for the geysers during the night, probably
finding a cold church not so pleasant a place to sleep
in after all. Our French friends had not decided
whether to push further into the country or return,
but our determination to proceed at all costs to
Hecla seemed to fire them with fresh courage, and
they promised to follow us at least as far as the
geysers. For them, however, Hecla was out of the
question, as their provisions were insufficient for so
long a journey, and in addition their horses seemed
unfit for the roads.
For the first few miles our road led along the
valley, skirting the border of the lake, until at last
we reached a steep incline forming the eastern
boundary of the remarkable subsidence which the
lake occupies. Dismounting, we led our horses up
the rocky path, until, gaining the summit, we found
ourselves again on the edge of a deep chasm called
the Hrafna Dagh or Raven’s Rift. This obstacle
would be quite unsurmountable were it not for some
blocks which have fallen and formed a kind of
natural bridge, over which, however, it behoves the
traveller to be cautious in crossing. He must,
moreover, look well out for holes, many of which
though not large are of great depth.
Leaving Thingvalla we entered a desolate region
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A Holiday in Iceland.
53
of black mountainous country, where at every step
the traces of fire became more and more apparent.
Blocks of lava, starting abruptly from a soil com-
posed of black dust and scoriae, formed a strange
contrast to the pure snow which lay thickly in the
crevices and more sheltered parts. I felt that I had
at last come in contact with one of those peculiarly
savage scenes, where the extraordinary operations
of nature are visible in all their majesty, and which
in Iceland alone can be seen in perfection.
The road was bad, and our party stretched in a
long irregular line, the horses labouring painfully up
and down the steep tracks, so that it required our
almost constant attention to keep the poor brutes
from stumbling, and rolling down the precipice.
At last, after a longer descent than usual, we
found ourselves, to our surprise, in a grassy vale,
seemingly leaving desolation and winter behind us,
and entering a soft balmy climate and a verdant
plain watered by a sparkling river.
Here flocks of sheep were grazing, and the place
was altogether one of the pleasantest bits of scenery
we had yet come across. We heartily enjoyed our
luncheon ; and the horses likewise, for not a blade of
grass had they seen since leaving Thingvalla.
After all, this verdant little spot was but like “ a
diamond in a coal boxfor whichever way we
looked chains of black mountains, like walls, sur-
rounded us, hiding their lofty heads in the clouds,
though at the same time fostering the luxuriant
D
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A Holiday in Iceland.
growth of the grass by effectually shielding the
valley from all cold winds.
We didn’t rest long, having still a journey of
some twenty-five miles to accomplish before night-
fall, so, in about half-an-hour, we were once more
ascending to the high ground.
The aspect of the country is somewhat brighter
here, and occasionally our journey was enlivened
by a glimpse of a farm-stead, at one of which we
obtained a sweet draught of ewe’s milk.
The practice of milking ewes, though now, I
believe, quite obsolete in England, is still part of the
housewife’s duty in Iceland. Very refreshing the
milk proved to us on our long weary journey.
No further halt was permitted until we should
reach the Bi'idge River, for Zoega, with a true
Icelander’s jealousy, wished us to reach the geysers
before the Danish party, although they had had the
advantage of a four hours’ start. We pushed rapidly
on, going at full gallop along the mountain tracks,
now one ahead, now another, until it happened that
I was first to reach the banks of the torrent, and,
being quickly joined by Fred, we sat quietly down to
await the arrival of our more tardy companions.
At length G---------was seen tearing along at a
great speed, and as he approached we noticed that
he had lost his stirrups. In another moment the
sight we expected to see we were rewarded with, for
just in front of a quagmire of liquid mud his horse
stopped short, and poor G----------, quite unequal to
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A Holiday in Iceland.
55
the emergency, was thrown bodily forward, and
landed with beautiful precision right in the centre of
it. It was fortunate for him that the mud was deep,
for it saved his bones, although'when we pulled him
out he was in a sorry plight.
The rest of the party now riding up, we prepared
to cross the Bridge River, a place frequently referred
to by Icelandic travellers on account of its peculiar
difficulties and dangers.
Imagine, if you can, a broad rushing river very
difficult to ford, with sunken rocks occasionally
protruding. In the centre is a cascade of horse-shoe
form, the curve of which is prolonged about two
hundred feet up the stream, forming through that
space an abyss into which the water falls with terrific
violence. The roads lead above, and not below the
fall as we had expected, and after wading through
the torrent girth deep, the traveller finds himself
obliged to cross a small wooden bridge over the
chasm, surrounded on every side by the roaring
torrent. After this he enters deep water again, and
struggles as best he can to the opposite shore.
The river was much swollen by the late rains,
and as I stood on the high bank and looked down on
the little bridge over the central channel, now
entirely submerged, I must confess to a slight feeling
of trepidation, which, though not openly expressed,
was evidently shared by all. A cluster of blank faces
looked down on the noted bridge, as Zoega bravely
descended and entered the stream, calling upon us
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A Holiday in Iceland.
to follow. Of course we followed—we could do
nothing else—and in a few moments Zoega found
the plank, and having crossed the deep water
beyond, he stood on the opposite side, and pointed it
out to us as we slowly gained the centre of the
stream. About three feet under water I saw the
bridge, and narrow enough it looked, with a gulf of
uncertain depth on either side, from the lower of
which rose clouds of spray. Half expecting to be
washed over, I at length summoned courage and
crossed. In a few minutes all were slowly climbing
the opposite bank, though not without often looking
back and wondering at the strange place we had
come over.
Here the promised halt of half-an-hour was
made, so, leaving the poor horses to their well-
earned relaxation, we returned to the river, and, now
that we were safely over, admired the strange and
wild beauty of the scene. I must acknowledge,
however, it was with a feeling of satisfaction and
relief that I heard we should return by another route,
and so not again risk being dashed over the cascade.
At length we started to accomplish the remaining
ten miles which still lay between us and the geysers.
The road was tolerably level and free from stones,
and our progress was consequently good ; but the
long ride was beginning to tell upon me in no
pleasant manner. At length I journeyed on more
like an automaton than a living being, growing
careless as to whether we trotted, galloped, or
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A Holiday in Iceland.
57
walked, for the pain was much the same either way,
and I bitterly thought of the four days’ riding still to
come.
Whilst we thus journeyed through a long valley
my attention was attracted by a spiral column of
steam slowly ascending at a distance of some two
miles. The nearer we approached the more
numerous these jets appeared, until it seemed as
though we were approaching some vast laundry
where the clothes of a whole nation were being
washed together. Such was my first impression of
the finest geysers in the world ; but then you must
remember I was feeling very fatigued from a hard
ride, and was not in the humour for being pleased at
anything.
As Zoega dismounted I followed his example,
feeling truly thankful that no more travelling would
be necessary that night. Even now, when I come to
think calmly over it, I consider we performed the
journey in very fair style, having travelled forty miles
in seven hours across, for the most part, very rough
country.
Well, as I dismounted with some difficulty, I
found to my surprise that my legs refused their
natural office, and let me down sprawling on the
ground. I looked around to see how the rest were
faring, and saw with a grim satisfaction that E-------
was in the same plight. Fred seemed gay as a lark,
and to my astonishment G----------- was able to walk
with ease. He was the one in particular whom I had
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A Holiday in Iceland.
expected to see even worse than myself. I struggled
to my feet, and, after examining his saddle, soon
discovered the cause of his apparent freshness. He
had cleverly fastened an air cushion in such a
manner as to alleviate effectually the discomfort of
riding.
What roars of laughter greeted this discovery !
But G---------, like a sensible fellow, was not to be
laughed out of his brilliant idea. Besides, that
night, in the tent, while we lay with our heads on a
box or a doubled-up coat, the same cushion did
excellent service as a pillow to its lucky possessor.
I believe, had anyone then appeared selling air
cushions, he might have disposed of them all at a
good premium.
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CHAPTER VII.
E sat shivering in the cold, and wondering
how long the baggage horses would be,
that we might get a hot dinner and rig up
the tent, when Fred, calling me aside, whispered
that he had discovered a beautiful little natural bath,
where the water was just hot enough to be bearable.
With what joy I threw off my muddy clothes,
and sat in the warm bath just up to my neck! Fred
was in a similar place a few yards distant, and as
we smoked our pipes we calmly surveyed the curious
scene by which we were surrounded.
While we luxuriated in a hot bath in the open
air, surrounded by clouds of steam rising from
numberless small springs and fissures, the snow lay
thickly on the surrounding hills, and as I gazed
upon the cold white mantle I keenly appi'eciated the
comfortable spot nature has provided in the very
heart of so chilly a land.
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A Holiday in Iceland.
I'remained about an hour in the water, by which
time all stiffness had left my limbs, and, feeling quite
fresh again, I proceeded to go the round of these
famous springs of which I had heard so much, and,
so far, seen so little. They are situated on a gentle
slope under the shadow of a long hill, and take up a
space of about half-a-mile in every direction.
The “ Giantess” geyser, to which we first turned
our attention, is a circular basin of clear boiling
water about seventy feet at its greatest diameter, and
ten feet deep. It rests on a sort of cone, composed
entirely of siliceous matter, perhaps twelve feet high.
The crater is of very regular form, and has a large
tube in the centre sinking to a depth of ninety feet,
from which, during an eruption, the water is thrown
with terrific power and violence, rising sometimes in
immense volumes to a height of a hundred and fifty
or two hundred feet.
On the hot ground, around this strange place, we
spread our garments to dry, for clothes more or less
damp had been our lot ever since leaving Reykjavik.
So great was the heat that it was impossible to
stand long in one place, and as the whole party
stood, first raising one foot and then the other, I
could not help comparing them to a gang of convicts
taking their turn on the tread-mill.
Suddenly a rumbling sound was heard, like
distant thunder, and the ground under our feet
violently shaken. At the same moment a warning
cry was heard from Zoega, so, hurriedly gathering
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V)
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A Holiday in Iceland. 61
our clothes together, a general stampede ensued,
and we all fled towards a place of safety, expecting
every moment a shower of boiling water on our
heads. After all it was but a false alarm, for the
only result was a slight commotion in the basin,
which caused the water to flow gently over the sides
from which it found its way to a tepid stream. I
may state that these false alarms are of constant
occurrence, a real eruption taking place not oftener
than at intervals of three or four days.
Out of patience with the ill-natured “Giantess”
I turned to inspect one of her more obliging sisters,
when to my joy the baggage horses hove in sight.
Tents and provisions were now at hand, so we were
soon busily engaged preparing dinner.
The place which we selected for our cooking was
a beautiful caldron some thirty feet round and of
considerable depth in the centre, but at the side was
a natural ledge where the water was not more than
six inches deep, and here we placed our tea-pot and
soup tins. Very soon we had the pleasure of seeing
them boil away right merrily.
Beef tea, soup, and coffee, swallowed almost at
boiling point, had the desired effect of thoroughly
ridding us of the chill of wet clothes; and when the
General produced a pot of strawberry jam I thought
my happiness complete.
After dinner some punch was made (not a very
difficult process where you are surrounded by hot
water), and four of my companions sat down to a
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A Holiday in Iceland.
rubber of whist on the edge of the Giantess geyser.
For my part, I could not settle quietly to a game in
the midst of such natural wonders, so, with Zoega
for a guide, I continued my round of the field, which
had been previously interrupted by the timely arrival
of dinner.
At a distance from the tent of about a hundred
yards we came to the Great Strokr (a term in
Icelandic signifying a churn), but as we afterwards
saw an eruption here I shall endeavour to describe
it later on.
The ground was now becoming unpleasantly hot,
and I noticed that we were in a region of “ boiling
mud,” the soil was of a red clayey colour, and every-
where emitted clouds of steam with a bubbling noise
such as a kettle makes just before boiling over.
Another strange phenomenon was a small pool,
where the water rose in a natural fountain about four
feet high. At a short distance was another basin,
and as the water fell in the one it rose in the other
with curious regularity, proving a direct communi-
cation to exist between the two. As a former
traveller has remarked, it would be difficult to con-
struct a piece of machinery to act in like manner.
On returning to the tent we discovered that the
Danish party had arrived, and with them the French-
men. So, with five tents and innumerable horses
and ponies, the scene looked quite sociable and
comfortable.
There was only one thing we were short of—
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A Holiday in Iceland.
63
wood to make fires. But in a land where not a stick
grows, it is far too expensive a luxury to look for.
The traveller must therefore be content with spirit
lamps, though really at the geysers fires are hardly
necessary. As we gazed however towards the snow-
covered wastes of Hecla, we shivered to think of
what the next night would bring forth when we
should be encamped close to its icy mantle.
About nine o’clock all assembled near the “Great
Strokr” geyser, where Zoega was about to invoke an
eruption. The Strokr is an ill-conditioned looking
well of about ten feet diameter and of basin-like
form, the sides contracting, until at a distance of
some twenty feet below the surface a kind of tube is
seen where the water is boiling with great fury.
Eruptions here are of frequent occurrence, but,
as on this present occasion, it generally requires a
little extraneous aid before the phenomenon is seen
in all its grandeur. About as much turf and sods as
would comprise a small cart load had been collected
and piled around the edge of the caldron, and at a
given signal we pushed the whole mass in, imme-
diately retiring to a safe distance to watch the result.
Silence reigned supreme for about ten minutes, when
suddenly with a roar and a rush a column of dirty
water rose some twenty feet above the surface,
followed by a higher column. In a few seconds
burst after burst succeeded each other in rapid
succession, each with greater power than the former,
until a height of over a hundred feet was attained.
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A Holiday in Iceland.
The sods and turf were now thrown out with
terrific violence, and one lump, thoroughly stewed,
fell at my feet—a distance of about fifty yards.
For fully twelve minutes the eruption continued
with unabated fury, and in the calm evening air an
immense volume of steam rose perpendicularly, until
lost to sight above.
It was a magnificent spectacle, but its beauty
would have been much enhanced had the water been
of the pure limpid character of the “ Giantess ”
geyser.
As it was now getting nearly time to retire, we
prepared to spend our first night under canvas.
Zoega we found had brought a small tent for himself
and men, so the larger one was set apart for our
exclusive use.
Just as we were turning in, a burst and roar from
the “ Giantess ” set us all running in that direction,
but disappointment again awaited us, for, with a few
sullen murmurs, the water descended to its ordinary
level, and the conviction began to force itself upon
me that we should, after all, have to leave the
neighbourhood without witnessing one of its great
outbursts.
A few minutes later saw us all stretched on the
floor of the tent packed closely side by side trying to
invoke the aid of Morpheus, though for a time he
seemed deaf to our entreaties. At last, after a long
silent pause, during which I saw that everyone had
fallen asleep except myself, I heard, or rather felt,
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A Holiday in Iceland.
65
Fred trying to turn round. To assist him, I turned
over also, when to my surprise and amusement, I
saw the rest of the company follow suit. In fact it
was just like a Venetian blind, one could not stir
without the movement becoming general. I stifled
my laughter as well as I could, not wishing to
disturb the accommodating sleepers, but the scene
was strangely ridiculous, and I really should have
enjoyed a good laugh at the time.
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CHAPTER VIII.
EXT morning I crept quietly out before the
rest were awake, to post up my notes
which had fallen rather behind hand, and
partially, I must confess, in hope of seeing an
eruption.
My early rising was not rewarded by any special
manifestation of the “ Giantess,” so I followed the
little over-flow stream for a short distance, until I
came to my bathing place of the previous evening.
Here 1 again indulged in a warm bath, rightly
surmising that it would be a considerable time
before another opportunity would present itself.
Ascending a steep hill not very far from the hot
stream, I came to a small river rushing noisily over
a rocky bed. On its high banks the snow lay
glistening in the bright sunlight, and the water was
icy cold to the touch.
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A Holiday in Iceland.
67
Verily, thought I, this is a land of wonders. An
hour ago I stood on soil almost too hot to be bear-
able, and now I am on frozen ground, with all the
surroundings of mid-winter about me.
When I returned to the encampment, G----------—
was again busy in the culinary department, indeed
I don’t know what we should have done without
him, for I never saw a fellow so ready to make the
best of circumstances.
He had prepared quite a new dish in the soup
line. Finding that the tinned hare soup [would be
insufficient for our requirements, he had, with
wonderful foresight and sagacity, added a couple
of “Liebig’s Extract” to the kettle, and when
served, though we were at a loss to discover what
sort of soup it was, the mixture was quite palatable,
and what was more important—'there was plenty
of it.
Long before I was tired of the place, the order
was given to prepare for departure, and though I fain
would have lingered to have given the “ Giantess ”
one more chance, yet Hecla had its attractions, and
as I gazed at its white summit I wondered what new
adventures awaited us on our journey and on arrival
there.
At last the final adieux were spoken. We took
leave of our lively French friends, and followed by
the wondering looks of the Danish party, started
briskly off for the little-known wilderness which
exists between the geysers and Hecla.
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A Holiday in Iceland.
Four years had elapsed since Zoega had con-
ducted a party to Hecla, and it was greatly against
his will that he now consented to take us.
Most travellers in Iceland discover that they have
had quite enough of the hardships of the country by
the time they reach the geysers, from which place
they usually return to Reykjavik again, fearing to
cross the deep unbridged rivers and bogs which are
known to exist around the mountainous district of
which Hecla is the centre. The dangers and
difficulties had been graphically described by Zoega
in the hope of dissuading us from the journey, but
we had unanimously decided to proceed whatever
might be the result, for the spirit of adventure was
beginning to make itself felt throughout our little
party.
With an air of resignation he started off at a
gallop, and as we followed his fleet horse our spirits
rose under the genial influence of a really fine
morning, and all thoughts of stiff limbs and aching
joints were forgotten. We left the baggage animals,
as usual, to follow at their leisure, but had little fear
but what they too would perform the journey in good
time; for the country about here becomes very
barren again, and nothing exists to tempt either
man or beast to linger on the road.
I heartily enjoyed the sharp ride, until, after
the lapse of about an hour, we came to a river of
considerable dimensions. From the expression on
Zoega’s face I firmly believe he was rather pleased
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A Holiday in Iceland. 6g
than otherwise to find the water much too deep for
fording in the usual way.
Here he made a last appeal to us to turn back,
which just had the same effect as his previous
appeals—namely, to make us all the more deter-
mined to proceed.
He then asked us, “ Had we ever before swum a
river on horse-back?” We certainly never had, but
professed our perfect willingness to try. Taking
his feet out of the stirrups, to impede the horses’
motion as little as possible, he then rode into the
river, calling upon us to follow.
We preferred to remain on the bank for the
present, and see first how he fared. As his horse
splashed deeper and deeper into the rushing stream
you may be sure his progress was anxiously watched
by those who were to follow. At last his horse gave
a slight struggle, and in another moment was
swimming in deep water, nothing being visible
except his head, and the head and shoulders of his
rider. I noticed that the current carried them con-
siderably down the stream, landing them at a point
about a quarter of a mile lower down on the opposite
side. After carefully noting a place where the bank
shelved to a gentle slope, we one by one slowly
entered, trusting to our horses to take us safely over.
How the others felt at that moment I cannot tell;
but for my part I must say I felt decidedly cold as
the water rose about me, and my horse gradually
lost his footing, and commenced, after a few pre-
E
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A Holiday in Iceland.
liminary plunges, to swim towards where I supposed
the opposite bank was. However, we all managed
to keep our seats somehow, and, my calculation
proving correct, I soon had the pleasure of landing
at a convenient place, having been carried down
the stream to the exact spot I had noticed before
entering.
It was now necessary to give the horses a little
rest, for their morning’s swim had somewhat
fatigued them, so, dismounting, we commenced to
do our little utmost to restore warmth and circula-
tion to our benumbed limbs, and to wring the water
from our streaming clothes. In this we were par-
tially successful, though G— could not help
wishing most devoutly that the baggage was at
hand to enable him to get a change. Zoega over-
heard the wish and gave a knowing smile. The
fact is, the baggage, when it did arrive, was even
wetter than we were; for the boxes which were
fastened on the horses’ backs were entirely sub-
merged during the passage of the river, and are
anything but water-proof even against limited
quantities of moisture.
Ascending the high bank we obtained a fine view
of the country around. Far in the distance behind,
clouds of steam betokened the geysers we had
started from that morning. Upon the left side the
Lange Jokull rose with a gentle slope, until its
summit was lost to sight, and in front was a
mountainous region, which promised us some hard
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A Holiday in Iceland. 71
riding and climbing when we should approach its
vicinity.
Long halts in the middle of a journey are not the
order of the day in Iceland, and a few minutes saw
us seated once more on our damp steeds, pushing
across as dreary a tract of country as can be well
imagined. Here, even the ravens deserted us; and
although their croaking had been but a melancholy
kind of music, still it was preferable to the intense
silence which now reigned everywhere.
Two hours’ riding, however, produced a change
of scene, and we came to the banks of the “ Hvita ”
or “ White” River, so called from the colour of the
water, which in appearance almost resembles milk.
This river, which is one of the largest in Iceland,
rises in the Lange Jokull, and is formed principally
by the melting of the snow in that district. The
water is putrid, and gives an unpleasant odour. It
was with anything but pleasure that we contem-
plated swimming across it.
Luckily, however, our powers were not put to
that test, for a man who earns a wretched sub-
sistence by attempting to till the barren ground, and
whose hovel we inspected with a kind of interest
as being the poorest we had yet seen, agreed to
take us over, one at a time, on condition that we
should assist in propelling the -rude canoe of which
he was proprietor. The horses were towed across
two at a time, lines being fastened to them from
the stern of the boat. It was well for us that they
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A Holiday in Iceland.
swam so quietly, as it would have required very
little plunging on their part to have upset the whole
arrangement. Fortunately, however, all landed
safely on the opposite shore; but the work of
transportation had swallowed up a good deal of
time, and it was now necessary to push on without
any interval for luncheon, if we wished to complete
the day’s journey in time to visit Hecla on the
morrow.
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CHAPTER IX.
E now entered the mountainous region which
so long had been visible to us, and which
we had been so long a time in reaching.
The uninteresting desert gave place to scenery of
a wild and indescribable grandeur. Immense rocks
of inky blackness rose in every fantastic shape and
form, with bold and rugged outlines, whilst ever and
anon we passed waterfalls of such magnitude as in a
more accessible land would attract crowds of visitors
and tourists to their picturesque surroundings. The
roads also varied in character as much as in feature,
leading us occasionally through narrow passes where
single file was compulsory, and then taking us over
wild and rugged mountains where a false step would
have been certain death on the rocks beneath.
After proceeding some distance along a path on
the side of a steep hill we found our further progress
stopped by a broad but shallow stream of hot water.
Of course it was quite impossible to get the horses
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A Holiday in Iceland.
across such an obstacle, and Zoega, not remem-
bering to have seen this hot river before, concluded
that we had missed the road, and were on the wrong
side of the valley.
The lower ground looked fresh and green, so we
thought no great harm had come of the mistake and
prepared to cross the sward and ascend the hills on
the opposite side—a distance of about a mile. But
Zoega saw that the ground was far too pleasant
looking to be safe, and advised retracing our steps
for a few miles. Now, if there is one thing more
than another that I dislike it is “ going backwards,”
and my prejudice seemed to be shared by my friends,
who thought a pleasant canter across the green
would be a nice change to the stony roads we had
so long been travelling on. So, over-ruling an
experienced guide, we prepared to take our own way,
the General and E--------leading off at a galop, and
the rest of us following at a more sober pace.
Disaster soon overtook the more adventurous.
The foremost horses stopped suddenly. I saw the
earth shake, and in another moment the General
rolled one way and E---------—. another, while their
respective horses struggled fiercely in the bog they
had fallen into. It was a work of considerable
difficulty to extricate them—men, as well as horses ;
and for the remainder of the day they looked like-
well, I can hardly say what.
After all, we had to retrace our steps and con-
tinue to patronise the rough road in preference to
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A Holiday in Iceland.
75
the treacherous valley. Towards eight p.m. we
halted on the banks of the River Thorsjor, near a
place called Skalholt.
The river, which in character much resembles
the “ Hvita,” flows through a bed composed of lava
and cinders. During the eruption of Hecla in 1845
the water was entirely dried up, the bed being filled
with liquid fire instead. The banks still show ample
signs of the strange visitation, and some rough
climbing is necessary over the huge lava blocks
before the margin of the water is reached.
The spot where we pitched our tents is a level bit
of ground, surrounded on two sides by this curious
natural wall, and situated at a distance of about
half-a-mile from the solitary farm house—Skalholt.
The tents having been erected, I repaired with
Zoega to the farm on a foraging expedition.
Our appearance created surprise, we being the
first visitors for a long season among the solitary
inmates.
They bade us welcome, and, Zoega acting as
interpreter, I was soon busily engaged in conversa-
tion, and replying to the innocent interrogations of
these children of nature. I discovered that these
poor people hold a most exalted view of their own
country, and for the first time heard the old Icelandic
proverb, “the sun shines not on a fairer land than
Iceland.” I could hardly endorse the sentiment, for,
unfortunately, the sun had been very sparing in its
visits during our journey.
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A Holiday in Iceland.
The cottage is built much in the same style as
the clergyman’s house in Thingvalla, but is poorer
in its internal arrangements, and, if anything, has a
more damp and earthy smell. The back portion,
not having the friendly shelter of a hill side, is
literally excavated in the ground, and a rather steep
cavernous passage leads down into the “kitchen”
or apartment where a fire burns. Here we managed
to boil some water, and, armed with a truss of hay
given as a special sign of favour, we returned to our
hungry friends in the camp.
Tea (or dinner) was soon ready, and seated, some
on the ground, and some on the saddle boxes, we
heartily enjoyed our frugal meal in the wilderness.
The night being calm and still we afterwards took a
stroll for an hour, attracted by the peculiar beauties
of the landscape, which in every direction stretched
before us. The sun, the rays of which had left the
earth, shone with a crimson glow on the Skaptaa
Glacier,, while, apparently but a few short miles off,
stood the celebrated Hecla, to see which we had
travelled so far, and to ascend which we had still so
considerable a journey to make.
Long after the others had retired to the tent
Fred and I sat enjoying the picturesque scene, and
when he, too, overcome by the stillness of the night,
joined his sleeping companions, I was left—last man,
in an apparently deserted world.
My mind wandered back to the period when this
stony desert was a comparatively cultivated district,
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A Holiday in Iceland.
77
before the fearful eruption of the Skaptaa in 1783
spread desolation and woe over many happy home-
steads. During that terrible visitation the land was
shrouded in total darkness for nearly a month, and
the liquid fire, in its irresistable progress, swept
away houses, flocks, and numbers of the wretched
inhabitants. Skaptaa is now a snowy waste, and it
is difficult to picture a period when, instead of a cold
frozen covering, tongues of fire had leapt from its
lofty summit.
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CHAPTER X.
EXT morning saw us early on the move,
leading our horses to a spot where the
farmer had promised to take us across
the river. He soon appeared lugging along a rude
flat-bottomed boat, evidently home-made, and in this
unpromising-looking vessel we were transported
across the deep dangerous river. The tents and
pack-horses we left behind, as it was our intention
to remain encamped where we were, the immediate
vicinity of Hecla not supplying sufficient fodder for
the horses.
Zoega reckoned that we should regain the en-
campment about six o’clock in the evening, so we
decided to postpone dinner until then, taking with
us only such provisions as we could cram into our
pockets, together with a couple of boxes of sardines.
The pocket filter, which Fred carried slung across
his back like a knapsack, was brought into requisi-
tion several times that day, the streams which we
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A Holiday in Iceland. 79
passed not possessing that purity and cleanliness
which one likes to see in his “ drinking water.”
The road led principally across a blackened
desert, and for miles nothing was visible but a
burnt and fire-scorched plain. At short intervals
large heaps of lava bore witnes to the strange
paroxysms of nature, and abundant signs were not
wanting to show that we were approaching a great
and active volcano.
At length we reached a chain of hills probably
some three hundred feet in height, at the base of
which a patch of green is again occasionally visible.
These hills have evidently been of service in
protecting and sheltering a portion of the ground
from the showers of scoriae and ashes proceeding
from the great eruptions.
In a well-guarded spot stands the farm house
Neurfholt—the nearest inhabited house to Hecla.
The farmer, a thorough specimen of the rough
Icelander, joined us as guide to the crater, Zoega
not seeming to care about the climb.
We now advanced in single file along a kind of
lane between two walls of lava, ranging in height
generally from sixty to a hundred feet. For five
miles we journeyed on without visibly lessening
the distance, although the white summit of the
mountain was continually before us, and seemed
almost within a stone’s throw.
As we approached the base the walls on either
side increased in height and grotesqueness of feature.
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A Holiday in Iceland.
In fact, it seemed as though we were travelling
through some large town, for everywhere curious
formations of lava reminded me of streets, houses,
and large buildings with towers and steeples. The
resemblance was almost perfect, but one thing was
required to make it complete—life.
In this terrible wilderness, where even the mind
seems almost bowed down by the desolation and
solitude of surrounding nature, not a sign of life or
vegetation is visible. Not even a blade of grass or a
drop of water.
At length our farmer-guide, dismounting, com-
menced to climb up the lava; and we, glad of the
chance of stretching our legs, soon scrambled up
after him. When we gained the summit of the
“wall,” a curious sight rewarded us. Far below,
in a kind of circular dell, stood a deserted house,
surrounded on every side by almost perpendicular
walls of lava. It had been the birth-place of our
conductor.
On a fine morning in May, 1845, his parents
were awakened by subterranean noises proceeding
from the mountain, and, in great alarm, fearing an
eruption, they took their little infant and fled from
the farm, leaving all other possessions behind them.
They saved their lives but never returned to live in
the old homestead, for the liquid fire, though it
spared the house, surrounded it with an inaccessible
wall of rock. It now stands a last remnant of civil-
ization in the midst of an indescribable chaos.
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A Holiday in Iceland. 81
We now commenced the ascent, though the
incline was not too steep to prevent our riding fully
half the distance.
Just below the snow-line we halted, and made
short work of the biscuits and sardines. Then,
leaving the horses to Zoega’s care, we commenced
the ascent proper under the leadership of our farmer
friend. It was rather a disadvantage that we were
not able to converse with him, but Icelandic was a
language we had not yet contrived to master, and
what little information we derived from him was
principally gained by signs and dumb show.
A short and difficult descent brought us into a
remarkably wild but beautiful dell, where we seemed
shut out from the outer world without a chance of
escape. But, by degrees, as our eyes became more
accustomed to the formation of the rocks, we espied
a kind of ledge running up the precipice. This
our conductor informed us was the road, and then
the literal climbing commenced. The temperature
fell considerably, and when we had reached an
elevation of about two thousand feet was below
freezing point, and the frozen snow presenting a
very insecure footing our progress was anything
but rapid.
At length, to crown all, a thick fog enveloped the
whole mountain, so that it was impossible to see
further than a few yards in any direction.
We halted for a few minutes on a small table-
land, when, from the conduct of our guide, who was
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A Holiday in Iceland.
prowling about like a caged lion, I soon discovered
that he had lost his way.
Here was a pretty mess to be in !
We stormed and raved—but it was useless. The
man could not understand a word, and grave fears
began to be entertained that we should have to spend
the night on the mountain. The prospect was not
inviting, for we had left our thick coats with Zoega,
thinking to climb all the easier, unencumbered by
them. It was now freezing so hard that we were
covered with hoar frost and icicles, and, in addition,
not one of our party had so much as a crust of bread
in his pockets. Altogether we appeared to be in as
nice a scrape as it is possible to conceive.
For about an hour we stamped up and down on
the frozen ground, not daring to sit long on account
of the intense cold. But a pleasant change was
coming. At last a ray of sunshine broke through the
bank of fog by which we were enshrouded, and gain-
ing power and brilliancy soon effectually dispelled the
mists, and enabled our bewildered conductor to
resume his proper function as guide. Shortly after-
wards he landed us safely at the extinct crater of ’45.
In spite of the power and severity of that
eruption, atmospheric denudation during a long
period of inactivity has effaced, in a great measure,
all traces of the actual crater, and, had I been alone,
I should probably have passed without much notice
the ordinary looking hole from which miles and
miles of streaming lava have issued.
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