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A HOLIDAY IN ICELAND BY N. L. VAN GRUISEN, Jun. LONDON: STOCK, PUBLISHER, PATERNOSTER ROW. i879- ELLIOT 62
E. Griffith & Son, Printers, Haymarket, Birkenhead.
, PREFACE. HE writer hopes that, as the following recollections of a very pleasurable summer holiday in Iceland have afforded him great pleasure in the writing, they may cause others some in the reading, and be sufficient to induce them when asking, “Where shall we go?” to seek the same enjoyment. They will at...

CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Preparations for the journey—On board the Phonix — Introduction to Consul K---—.— Commencement of the voyage. CHAPTER II. Arrival at the Faroe Isles — Thorshaven — A trip to Kirkeboe. CHAPTER III. At sea again — Iceland in sight—The Westmann Isles — Reykjavik harbour—Visitors. CHAPTER I...
VI. CHAPTER VII. A curious bath — Strange phenomena — Eruption of “Strokr”-—Our first night under canvas. CHAPTER VIII. In the saddle again — Dangerous rivers, and how we crossed them. CHAPTER IX. Splendid scenery — The wrong path — The result of stub- bornness— The encampment at Skalholt — An Icelandic farm...
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Reykjavik Almanna Dagh or All Men’s Chasm Cascade in Thingvalla The Bridge River ... The Geysers..................... Page. Frontispiece ... 20 ......... 4° 60 80

CHAPTER I. T had long been my earnest desire to visit the lands of the far North, but the distance, the almost insuperable difficulties of the journey, together with the length of time it would require, had for many years deterred me from making an attempt. However, early in the year eighteen hundred and sevent...
6 A Holiday in Iceland, damped by reading the blunt and unflattering re- marks which he applies both to the country and its people. We were beginning to wonder whether after all “the game was worth the candle,” when news arrived that Hecla was in eruption. That decided it. Fred at once discovered that the auth...
A Holiday in Iceland. 7 the Danish Mail Steamer Phonix, advertised to sail from Copenhagen on Saturday, July 6th, and to call at Leith upon the Wednesday following. So upon Wednesday morning we punctually presented our- selves alongside the Phonix, which was snugly en- sconced in dock. No one appeared on deck, ...
8 A Holiday in Iceland. scene at a glance, and whose mischievous eyes fairly sparkled with fun and delight. This was Captain A-------, of the Phonix, and our host. To him we introduced ourselves, and matters were soon set straight, for, as we afterwards heard, he ex- plained to the Consul that we were “only Eng...
A Holiday in Iceland. 9 more intimate, grew into an ardent friendship. And to get to know a man thoroughly, both good points and bad, there is nothing like travelling in Iceland. But I am running on too fast—we are still in Scotland, with a whole day and night before us. Hearing that G------— was bound upon the...
io A Holiday in Iceland. being calm as a mill pond, all heartily enjoyed it, and began to congratulate each other upon being excellent sailors. In the afternoon coffee was brought on deck, and under the influence of the sociable weed conversation soon became general. Two gentlemen from Oxford I found were bound ...
A Holiday in Iceland. ii for him, had, in spite of the warnings of both captain and mate, slung a hammock on the lower deck, where he thought he might sleep comfortably sheltered from the wind; but he had never counted upon weathering.a gale, and when, in the middle of the night, he awakened, it was to find him...
CHAPTER II. Y the third day (Sunday), we had all com- pletely recovered, and heard with interest that the first whale had been seen. “ There she blows,” sung out the captain ; but just as we all rushed to the side the fountain of water disappeared, and we were told that we had “ seen a whale.” I can only add, t...
A Holiday in Iceland. 13 stands on a small tongue of land on the South-east side of Stromoe. In spite of the lateness of the hour the Governor lost no time in waiting upon us; indeed, I should think the arrival of a steamer must be quite a little excitement to that exile community, for flags were soon flying fr...
14 A Holiday in Iceland. garments — I can hardly call them coats — of thick coaise skin, with the fur-side out. In winter they reverse the costume, and wear the fur inside. The breeches are made of thick home-spun cloth, and the the stockings, of which they show a good deal, appear to be well knitted. The shoes...
A Holiday in Iceland. 15 furniture were the rows of spittoons along each pew. Leaving the church, we entered into conversation with some natives, that is to say, we made signs that we wanted to go to a place called Kirkeboe, where we had heard there was a noted ruin to be seen. We soon found a guide, and having...
16 A Holiday in Iceland. the place we had come to see lay some three hundred feet below us. Tumbling and scrambling we soon descended the hill, and entered the walls of a fine old ruin of a large church, in the early English style. The walls are massively built of stone, some five feet thick, and the architectur...
A Holiday in Iceland. *7 which brought out the proprietor, we might have had to return to Thorshaven unrefreshed, but the farmer, with true native politeness, immediately ordered coffee to be brought, which you may be sure we received thankfully enough. It was four o’clock in the afternoon before we reached Th...
18 A Holiday in Iceland. overhanging, strings are fastened from which the provisions for winter are hung to dry, and not very tempting do they look, consisting principally of small fish almost resembling catgut, or else of pieces of whale flesh, looking and smelling not unlike what I should think a piece of beef...
CHAPTER III. HE number of our passengers was now con- siderably reduced, so General C—-------------, and his friend E----------, arranged with G-------, Fred, and myself, to form one party, to join all provisions together, in fact, to become brothers during our brief sojourn in the far North. A succession of st...
20 A Holiday in Iceland. *- called on deck to witness a remarkable sight. It was the summit of Vatna Jokull, and formed a most impressive picture as we then saw it. A dense mass of clouds hung above and below the mountain, while through a break we saw the dazzling glacier, upon which the sun shone with extraor...
I

A Holiday in Iceland. 21 and that name was given them by the Icelanders, as these people came from the West. A precipitous path leads to the top of the rock, where a little hamlet, with its church, stands two thousand feet above the ocean. In response to the gun fired from the steamer a small boat put off, and...
22 A Holiday in Iceland. harbour can be gained. The coast in this part is rocky and dangerous. Solitary peaks of volcanic origin stand far out in the sea, making navigation an exceedingly difficult matter. Through a telescope we saw a number of moving forms on Cape Reykianes, and were told that the Danish Gover...
A Holiday in Iceland. 23 then favour us with a call, but our saloon was soon filled by the officers of the French and Danish Gun- boats, stationed there during the Summer for the protection of the fisheries. A very lively party they formed as they sat smoking and chatting till nearly breakfast time. Of course t...
24 A Holiday in Iceland. short time. Fred, after hearing about the dangerous travelling so graphically described by Mr. Patterson, thought it might be advisable to make his will before landing; so G--------- immediately set to work, and the interesting document, along with all our valuable papers, was soon in t...
CHAPTER IV. S the keel of the boat grated on the shore, G--------, anxious to be first to land, sprang hurriedly forward, but, missing his footing, fell heavily and measured his length on the soft muddy beach. Whether the natives thought it part of the programme I cannot say, but not a muscle moved on any of th...
26 A Holiday in Iceland. principal inn would not be large enough to accom- modate our whole party (five), so the General and E------- went into private lodgings. After seeing them safely housed, G----------, Fred, and myself, followed Zoega to the “hotel,” where we were much more comfortably entertained than ev...
A Holiday in Iceland. 27 Zoega then procured the keys of the church, or rather cathedral, for it is the Bishop of Iceland’s church. The building is of timber, and the interior is very neat and in some degree ornamental; but the great object of interest is the marble font, beauti- fully carved by Thorvaldsen, an...
28 A Holiday in Iceland. oil-skins and head-gear. Each store keeps a mis- cellaneous selection of goods, and is presided over by Danes, who come out in the spring of the year, and return to Europe again in the winter. The articles we purchased were not dear, though the style would hardly have done for English w...
A Holiday in Iceland. 2Q To find a country so large as Iceland with only one school is at first sight rather surprising to a stranger, and the natural inference which he would draw would be that the people are very poorly educated. But in reality quite the contrary is the case. In the long winter evenings the f...
30 A Holiday in Iceland. come to my aid, for, with my bed near the window, I lay long enjoying the romantic view across the bay, backed by the snow-covered hills on which the sun still lingered as though loth to depart. Next morning I awoke with the feeling that some one was in the room, and in another moment ...
A Holiday in Iceland. 3i After an early dinner, I started with Fred to take a walk up the country, and at a short distance in the rear of the town we came to a stone tower of modern construction, having the appearance of a land-mark or “look-out” post. As the entrance door stood invitingly open we marched in, a...
32 A Holiday in Iceland. having been busily at work, and several well-known English names bear witness to their owners having come northwards. As I have already stated an extensive view is to be obtained from the summit, so that we had plenty of choice as to which way we should turn our footsteps. After a litt...
A Holiday in Iceland. 33 garments and retrace our steps with as good a grace as possible. It was lucky for us that we met no one, for even the grave Icelander’s risible faculties must have been greatly excited had we been seen in so sorry a plight. When we returned to the inn I found Zoega had appeared with th...
34 A Holiday in Iceland. really were fairly started, we began to a certain extent to enjoy ourselves. Finding our way to the sea shore we turned southwards, and, after rounding the bay, climbed over a steep headland, and rested in a small cave near the sea. As we turned in a large flock of birds, which I soon r...
A Holiday in Iceland. 35 bird, and in about two months it disappears, and is seen no more until the following spring. In the friendly cave we stayed some time, and, while devoutly wishing for better weather, could not be insensible to the wild grandeur of the scene produced by a storm on the Icelandic coast. The...
CHAPTER V. HE morning broke with a cloudless sky, and punctually at eight o’clock we presented ourselves at the General’s lodgings, from which place our expedition was to start. In a few minutes Zoega appeared with a drove of twenty-five horses and ponies. Nine of the former were saddled and bridled, five being...
A Holiday in Iceland. 37 shewing the least sign of fatigue, and who went with little or no food for long periods together. Complaints have often been made that they are not sure-footed, but I think the animals that can cross Iceland without stumbling are not yet in existence. Our luncheon for the first day we ...
38 A Holiday in Iceland. the exhilarating motion through the keen air was highly enjoyable—well mounted as we all were. As we proceeded further the road grew narrow, and the cavalcade formed a picturesque sight mount- ing in straggling order a rocky path, the summit of which having been gained showed us far bel...
A Holiday in Iceland. 39 to swing my legs about (perhaps not in a very elegant fashion but still useful, as it makes quite unnecessary the use of the whip). The country through which we passed was not beautiful in the ordinary sense of the word, but the mode of travelling was a novelty, and ever and anon we ha...
40 A Holiday in Iceland, We were now crossing a high table-land, and a more solitary desert it was never my lot to see. As far as the eye could reach in every direction stretched an unbroken level of black rocky earth, and blocks of lava continually rolling from under the horses’ hoofs made riding a most precar...


A Holiday in Iceland. 41 again through a chink in the opposite wall, and finds an outlet at last in Thingvalla Lake. The lake, which we now plainly saw from our elevated position, is a fine sheet of water, fully ten miles each way, interspersed with picturesque islets, and bounded on the opposite side by a lofty...
42 A Holiday in Iceland. We were now in Thingvalla, with nothing separating us from a night’s rest but the river before mentioned. No boat was visible and the water looked deep, but there was nothing for it except to proceed with the adventure and take the bad with the good, so one after another we plunged in, ...
A Holiday in Iceland. 43 made our exit, and the more fortunate people took possession. Our bodies as well as our spirits were considerably damped, for during all this time we had wet clothes on, thanks to the high state of the river we had come through. In our trouble, the good pastor sent out word that his bes...
44 A Holiday in Iceland. noticed was floored with timber, and the walls covered with the same material. Here we had nothing to fear except want of ventilation, as the one small window would not open, and the ceiling, as in the other room, was anything but lofty. After changing our damp clothes, G-------and I w...
A Holiday in Iceland. 45 were, trying vainly to understand each other’s lan- guage. Not a word could we make out until G--------discovered that they understood Latin, so in a dead language the conversation was carried on, principally, I must confess, without my taking much part in it, for my classical knowledge...
46 A Holiday in Iceland. river showed us a jolly party of midshipmen, with the captain and lieutenant of the French War Boat, with whom, as you will remember, we had already become acquainted on board the Phonix. They were uproariously glad to see us, and, pitching their commodious tent close to our lodgings, ...
A Holiday in Iceland. 47 Musing on the wonders of this strange land I omitted to notice that my boat had disappeared from the place where I had left it, and as I began to consider how I should get back thoughts of my friends enjoying a warm breakfast made me feel ravenously hungry, so I commenced a hurried sear...
48 A Holiday in Iceland. the horses during the winter, when no fodder is to be had, and when in the hard frost not a blade of grass is to be seen. I had heard of horses eating each others tails off, but horses living on fish was quite a new experience.
CHAPTER VI. E decided to spend the day in Thingvalla, and push on to the geysers early next morning. So after breakfast we sallied forth to visit the Althing, which is situated about a mile from the cottage. The Althing is a small grassy plateau, sur- rounded on three sides by a fearful chasm some twenty feet ...
5o A Holiday in Iceland. wretches who had incurred their displeasure; on this plateau were burned all those convicted of witchcraft and necromancy; and here Christianity was formally accepted by order of the Althing. Later on in the day, Fred, E-------, and myself, went out for a ride, picking three of the best...
A Holiday in Iceland. 51 devoid of all vegitation. In the quiet waters the precipitous mountains, with their snow-covered summits, were shown with amazing distinctness; but everywhere the same utter absence of life pre- vailed, as though fertility had forgotton to visit this remote part of the universe. Six o’c...
52 A Holiday in Iceland. ally to be seen until a turn in the road took us out of sight of that cottage, which I think we shall always look back upon with pleasure. I should have mentioned that the Danish party had started for the geysers during the night, probably finding a cold church not so pleasant a place t...
A Holiday in Iceland. 53 of black mountainous country, where at every step the traces of fire became more and more apparent. Blocks of lava, starting abruptly from a soil com- posed of black dust and scoriae, formed a strange contrast to the pure snow which lay thickly in the crevices and more sheltered parts. ...
54 A Holiday in Iceland. growth of the grass by effectually shielding the valley from all cold winds. We didn’t rest long, having still a journey of some twenty-five miles to accomplish before night- fall, so, in about half-an-hour, we were once more ascending to the high ground. The aspect of the country is s...
A Holiday in Iceland. 55 the emergency, was thrown bodily forward, and landed with beautiful precision right in the centre of it. It was fortunate for him that the mud was deep, for it saved his bones, although'when we pulled him out he was in a sorry plight. The rest of the party now riding up, we prepared to...
56 A Holiday in Iceland. to follow. Of course we followed—we could do nothing else—and in a few moments Zoega found the plank, and having crossed the deep water beyond, he stood on the opposite side, and pointed it out to us as we slowly gained the centre of the stream. About three feet under water I saw the b...
A Holiday in Iceland. 57 walked, for the pain was much the same either way, and I bitterly thought of the four days’ riding still to come. Whilst we thus journeyed through a long valley my attention was attracted by a spiral column of steam slowly ascending at a distance of some two miles. The nearer we approa...
58 A Holiday in Iceland. expected to see even worse than myself. I struggled to my feet, and, after examining his saddle, soon discovered the cause of his apparent freshness. He had cleverly fastened an air cushion in such a manner as to alleviate effectually the discomfort of riding. What roars of laughter gr...
CHAPTER VII. E sat shivering in the cold, and wondering how long the baggage horses would be, that we might get a hot dinner and rig up the tent, when Fred, calling me aside, whispered that he had discovered a beautiful little natural bath, where the water was just hot enough to be bearable. With what joy I thr...
6o A Holiday in Iceland. I'remained about an hour in the water, by which time all stiffness had left my limbs, and, feeling quite fresh again, I proceeded to go the round of these famous springs of which I had heard so much, and, so far, seen so little. They are situated on a gentle slope under the shadow of a ...

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A Holiday in Iceland. 61 our clothes together, a general stampede ensued, and we all fled towards a place of safety, expecting every moment a shower of boiling water on our heads. After all it was but a false alarm, for the only result was a slight commotion in the basin, which caused the water to flow gently ov...
62 A Holiday in Iceland. rubber of whist on the edge of the Giantess geyser. For my part, I could not settle quietly to a game in the midst of such natural wonders, so, with Zoega for a guide, I continued my round of the field, which had been previously interrupted by the timely arrival of dinner. At a distanc...
A Holiday in Iceland. 63 wood to make fires. But in a land where not a stick grows, it is far too expensive a luxury to look for. The traveller must therefore be content with spirit lamps, though really at the geysers fires are hardly necessary. As we gazed however towards the snow- covered wastes of Hecla, we ...
64 A Holiday in Iceland. The sods and turf were now thrown out with terrific violence, and one lump, thoroughly stewed, fell at my feet—a distance of about fifty yards. For fully twelve minutes the eruption continued with unabated fury, and in the calm evening air an immense volume of steam rose perpendicularly...
A Holiday in Iceland. 65 Fred trying to turn round. To assist him, I turned over also, when to my surprise and amusement, I saw the rest of the company follow suit. In fact it was just like a Venetian blind, one could not stir without the movement becoming general. I stifled my laughter as well as I could, not ...
CHAPTER VIII. EXT morning I crept quietly out before the rest were awake, to post up my notes which had fallen rather behind hand, and partially, I must confess, in hope of seeing an eruption. My early rising was not rewarded by any special manifestation of the “ Giantess,” so I followed the little over-flow s...
A Holiday in Iceland. 67 Verily, thought I, this is a land of wonders. An hour ago I stood on soil almost too hot to be bear- able, and now I am on frozen ground, with all the surroundings of mid-winter about me. When I returned to the encampment, G----------— was again busy in the culinary department, indeed ...
68 A Holiday in Iceland. Four years had elapsed since Zoega had con- ducted a party to Hecla, and it was greatly against his will that he now consented to take us. Most travellers in Iceland discover that they have had quite enough of the hardships of the country by the time they reach the geysers, from which p...
A Holiday in Iceland. 6g than otherwise to find the water much too deep for fording in the usual way. Here he made a last appeal to us to turn back, which just had the same effect as his previous appeals—namely, to make us all the more deter- mined to proceed. He then asked us, “ Had we ever before swum a rive...
70 A Holiday in Iceland. liminary plunges, to swim towards where I supposed the opposite bank was. However, we all managed to keep our seats somehow, and, my calculation proving correct, I soon had the pleasure of landing at a convenient place, having been carried down the stream to the exact spot I had noticed...
A Holiday in Iceland. 71 riding and climbing when we should approach its vicinity. Long halts in the middle of a journey are not the order of the day in Iceland, and a few minutes saw us seated once more on our damp steeds, pushing across as dreary a tract of country as can be well imagined. Here, even the rave...
72 A Holiday in Iceland. swam so quietly, as it would have required very little plunging on their part to have upset the whole arrangement. Fortunately, however, all landed safely on the opposite shore; but the work of transportation had swallowed up a good deal of time, and it was now necessary to push on with...
CHAPTER IX. E now entered the mountainous region which so long had been visible to us, and which we had been so long a time in reaching. The uninteresting desert gave place to scenery of a wild and indescribable grandeur. Immense rocks of inky blackness rose in every fantastic shape and form, with bold and rugg...
74 A Holiday in Iceland. across such an obstacle, and Zoega, not remem- bering to have seen this hot river before, concluded that we had missed the road, and were on the wrong side of the valley. The lower ground looked fresh and green, so we thought no great harm had come of the mistake and prepared to cross ...
A Holiday in Iceland. 75 the treacherous valley. Towards eight p.m. we halted on the banks of the River Thorsjor, near a place called Skalholt. The river, which in character much resembles the “ Hvita,” flows through a bed composed of lava and cinders. During the eruption of Hecla in 1845 the water was entirel...
76 A Holiday in Iceland. The cottage is built much in the same style as the clergyman’s house in Thingvalla, but is poorer in its internal arrangements, and, if anything, has a more damp and earthy smell. The back portion, not having the friendly shelter of a hill side, is literally excavated in the ground, and...
A Holiday in Iceland. 77 before the fearful eruption of the Skaptaa in 1783 spread desolation and woe over many happy home- steads. During that terrible visitation the land was shrouded in total darkness for nearly a month, and the liquid fire, in its irresistable progress, swept away houses, flocks, and number...
CHAPTER X. EXT morning saw us early on the move, leading our horses to a spot where the farmer had promised to take us across the river. He soon appeared lugging along a rude flat-bottomed boat, evidently home-made, and in this unpromising-looking vessel we were transported across the deep dangerous river. The ...
A Holiday in Iceland. 79 passed not possessing that purity and cleanliness which one likes to see in his “ drinking water.” The road led principally across a blackened desert, and for miles nothing was visible but a burnt and fire-scorched plain. At short intervals large heaps of lava bore witnes to the strange ...
8o A Holiday in Iceland. In fact, it seemed as though we were travelling through some large town, for everywhere curious formations of lava reminded me of streets, houses, and large buildings with towers and steeples. The resemblance was almost perfect, but one thing was required to make it complete—life. In t...


A Holiday in Iceland. 81 We now commenced the ascent, though the incline was not too steep to prevent our riding fully half the distance. Just below the snow-line we halted, and made short work of the biscuits and sardines. Then, leaving the horses to Zoega’s care, we commenced the ascent proper under the leade...
82 A Holiday in Iceland. prowling about like a caged lion, I soon discovered that he had lost his way. Here was a pretty mess to be in ! We stormed and raved—but it was useless. The man could not understand a word, and grave fears began to be entertained that we should have to spend the night on the mountain. ...