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I've gotten a powder cop since and fixed my hopper so hopefully this was just my token squib.
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I've gotten a Cherry MX tester to see which switch I like, but I should probably go to Fry's and see if I can try some of the keyboards out.
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I've got my eye on some AOS kits that will very likely be getting torn apart for bits and bodies so maybe there will be some differences there lol.
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I've got mine set to FXAA low and it looks fine.
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I've got kush hi pads coming for both pint and XR next week so we'll see how that changes the XRs carve ability.
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I've got a screen protector for mine, and it doesn't have any scratches at all.
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I've got an LCP II with a sticky holster and love it.
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I've got an extra Drop RDA that fits the mod fine so if the coils die on me I won't be heart broken but I wouldnt go out of my way to purchase another one just because of the hassle.
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I've got an entire other comment thread talking about this topic exactly with the OP if u could take a look there.
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I've got a massive box of various O rings, so i'm hoping i can just find the exact one and have multiples but if i don't and multiples are too hard to come by, luckily piston heads aren't too expensive.
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I've got a frontlight from handheldlegend on the way for my gbc, and I think I'll do a pro sound mod while I wait for it.
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I've got a dual side pipe flowmaster exhaust system on tho, plus the black chrome headlight housings!
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I've google searched and checked this thread pretty deep, haven't found anything so I'll start a post.
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I've found the wicking to be fine, coil installing to be really easy too.
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I've found silicone spray works really well, I spray some on a rag and wipe down my helmets.
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I've found a way to get the nitrate test kit that I want looking forward to it coming in for now I'll use the Tetra.
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I've followed the vanilla install guide and I don't think I've played around with SSDTs or AML files etc at all, so a little bit lost.
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I've focused my ire with the RPM, and haven't gotten around to fixing mine.
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I've done the thermal pad mod kit like a month ago and updated the BIOS that they gave me.
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I've done some IG posts in the past and then go to the trouble of removing the IG info at the bottom of the pic so I can share my figure pictures here, it'll be so much easier now to share the pics.
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I've done rof tests with a setup like that, it depends on the quality of the battery.
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I've done mag dumps and people at the range think I have bump stock with how fast I pull the trigger lol.
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I've done it a bunch of times with a cheaper set of screwdrivers so I ended up just going and buying a good iFixit kit.
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I've checked the voltage from the alternator at idle and is it always good but I'm going to go through everything again tonight.
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I've bounced around testing, temp mode and wattage mode, so far wattage mod works best.
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I've been working on some apps using OSC and I've been looking into adding MIDI support to, so seeing this is pretty cool.
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I've been wondering how it worked, and how a smoother should be setup vs stock removal.
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I've been wondering about this for a while and can't use my normal forum for rl data.
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I've been wanting to dip my rims, but have been waiting so I can take em off my jeep and have em flat.
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I've been using GSam for years without considering there might be a better app out there, until I got to this thread.
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I've been tracking my Boxster a fair bit lately and after tweaking, tuning, replacing parts, etc.
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I've been thinking about trying to put some threads on the inside the carb hole then getting a screw to fill the hole.
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I've been thinking about pulling the trigger myself, but I actually found the oem shell online so I'm just gonna swap my case and replace the sticks.
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I've been thinking about doing this lift with my axle bar lately, so this is really awesome to see.
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I've been testing out the parts on my buddy's rig to make sure I'm not getting any broken parts.
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I've been real curious about using a single coil RDA for awhile.
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I've been meaning to get dash cams for my car but I have no experience installing something like this.
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I've been meaning to get a dash cam for a while, but after reading this thread, I think it's time.
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I've been looking for one does anyone have info on where I can get just the shifter?
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I've been looking around on XDA but I can't afford messing up my phone so I'll most likely wait until there is some stable mm rom to use.
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I've been juggling a bunch of apps in the last week, and what I'm really looking for is an app that can log what apps toggle my wifi, I don't want to randomly uninstall apps on a hunch because I'll never remember to reinstall them.
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I've been in the hobby just to start witht that, is there any way it is in pit mode when the switch on the vtx tab is off?
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I've been bowsing the forum but I wasn't sure if I can download any DBT or it needs a specific version.
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I've been able to get custom ROMs on a few mid and low end LG devices.
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I've also tried patching the ROM to tablet interface but I'm not really interested in full tablet mode, it's just the tray placement I'm missing.
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I've also heard that with the csl DD there is some play in the quick release and you need to use the locking screw, whereas on my csw it's got a pretty solid connection so I've been hesitant for that reason too.
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I've also got lower pegs which I love, but I'm not sure if the stock peg configuration is the same between the ST and GT to start with.
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I've already seen it with one tire on, it looks awesome, can't wait to post pics!
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I've already had to pay shipping returning to other things that were wrong because I'm guessing a lot since relevant info isn't always available, have just made my third appt at the bike shop because I can't seem to install fenders.
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I usually have to close chrome completely and restart it or reset my router.
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I use stock as my other attachmebt and its the best setup you can have.
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I use my dab rig and it is much smoother at low temps.
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I use mine with one of those dash mounts so I have nav in my older car.
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I use loctite blue on all my bolts except for stuff that needs to be free to be adjusted.
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I use it on my carry pistol and like it a lot, stays put when you put it on so I dont have to worry about it running off on my cloths like other oils I've used in the past.
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I used ZFS for both my Proxmox drive and my container drives, but I don't know if one configuration is better than the other.
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I used to be a jg main and i would get tilted off the planet bc if your laners dont help you you cant help them and then they start spamming jg diff or other toxic stuff.
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I used thr moto trailer but the wheel ended up being secured outside the wheel notch anyway and the bike never moved so you should be good.
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I use Coralife since its what I started the tank with, and my setup seems to do well with it.
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I use an AFR gauge to tune my bike and wouldn't wanna try it the old way.
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I use air on my dh and trail bike but coil is not bad, just different.
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I use a fish tank sponge lol I haven't done it since I'm in the process of flushing the system.
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I typically won't rev match unless I'm coming in hot, just drop till the next gear and let the engine bleed off a couple hundred RPM.
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It works great in my opinion haven't shot with it yet so I'll update you tomorrow, but you can still use the irons if needed through the hole in the base of the acog.
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It works for me because I have so much experience with my setup that I know how long I'll be out there, how much water I'll use, when the temperature will ramp up, I know the trails.
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It was an automatic with no rpm gauge so all i could do is floor it and see what happens lol.
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It's pretty fast and works through my glass screen protector just fine.
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It's not my question, I'm asking if with the factory reset from fastboot I'm ok or I've to do any other things.
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It's just a rubber tube I'm using it so I can see my phone and hit the rig at the same time.
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Its four o clock where i live but if u give me till tommorow i might be able to do some stuff and exploit a piston bug or so but if i cant would it be fine if a piston showed?
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It seems like I can't go a day on this forum without seeing a thread where you complain.
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It's basically my take out in the rain not worry if I drop it on concrete type of phone while im working etc The one thing that helped my battery life was wiping the phone and then not putting many apps on it besides what comes with it.
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It's a single battery mod, and I get much better results using my RDA in single coil mode.
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I tried to post the link on another thread yesterday but it got caught by the spam filter.
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I tried it because I figured removing a load off my GPU will keep temps reasonable.
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I tried but it's just a black screen for a few restarts until it can try to recover and then I just have to uninstall the latest update.
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It pops up the ZXDS logo but never fully loads, just sits there and I've no idea why.
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I too used gear tracker for a while but then after an update it would just freeze on me and the only way out of the app was to close it.
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I too saw ridiculous temps at idle and on load at low voltages.
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I too have been stuck on a rut where I just can't face starting a new colony, normally after an update when I'm waiting for mods to update.
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It looks like they did remove the remover from moding cause I don't see his name haha, but some explanation on wtf is going on would bee nice.
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It looks like they announced TW shutdown a few hours after I posted my comparison thread.
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It is not an great roll for me but I have no nocturnal lever or hunting rifle so I am interested lol.
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I thought there would be an official YT stream since last pinned thread has YouTube spoiler with TBD.
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I thought so I've installed one before with the original hammer spring in my wasr but now this time around the original spring is to loose maybe im installing it wrong?
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I thought about welding one together but It'd be a mission to make it adjustable and not bullshit heavy.
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I think you should be fine if you havent gone too far or driven the car alot since the rotors were swapped.
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I think the uni pro has USB c now which was my main reason for getting the shiv over the uni pro, but I don't regret it at all since the build quality and otf function is awesome.
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I think there is an app for CFX boards if they have a Bluetooth module installed, but I've no idea how well it works.
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I think the OP should have checked their info before posting as I'm sure lots of people thought the info related to charging e bike battery packs, which it doesn't.
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I think my car sounds almost perfect with long tube headers and no other exhaust mods.
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I think I'm just gonna get a Bluetooth ECU diagnostic tool and reset the codes myself.
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I think I'm going to have to go with the red wine switches, they sound sooo good, other than tape mod what would you recommend considering this is my first build?
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It fits everything except maybe the ride quality, but you can add a suspension kit like I did mine to the front, making it full suspension.
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It didn't tell me to reboot, but I've noticed rebooting between changing gsync settings actually makes other shit work right, so I should have done it anyway.
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It could be a non LCI so if it turn out lookin the same I would just give a few racks and if it racks well, then I'd shoot it.
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I tank on my DRK alot I've never really had much issues as long as you keep your gear up to date.
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I switched the earcups and so far they feel better, I will try teh leather ones when they come today but if I don't like the leather ones I will return them and use this, thanks.
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I swapped it with another silicon hose handle and it works much nicer.
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I stopped having the issue when I stopped using multiple chrome profiles, so try that if you can?