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How can I refresh the finish on my kitchen cabinets? I am getting ready to put my house on the market and I would like to clean \ "restore" my kitchen cabinets. They are an oak cabinet that aren't painted, they are stained. I don't know exactly what finish is on them. They are the original builder grade cabinets from the early 1980's. They are really just full of grime and whatnot. So I would like to clean them a little and then maybe just rub them down with something that can make them look a bit better. Something like Old English or Pledge. Maybe butcher block oil ? <Q> First off you will have to clean off the grime. <S> Any attempt to dress up the surface of the finish with the grime still present will look worse in my experience. <S> Cleaning the grime off can be attempted using a washing solution of TSP and hot water. <S> TSP should be available at your hardware store in powered form as TSP or trisodium phosphate. <S> It is an awesome cleaner but will require you to use good rubber gloves that cover up your lower arms. <S> After you get the grime removed you will be in a position to evaluate the condition of the finish. <S> It the finish is in relatively uniform condition and not worn completely away or cracked / peeling <S> you may be able to improve the looks a lot with an nice quality oil wipe. <S> I would not recommend Pledge type products for reconditioning the finish surface. <S> If the finish is mildly non-uniform but clean you should be able to pipe on a thin coat of wipe on combo stain/finish. <S> Select a color very close to the current appearance for best results. <S> Make sure to try this out on a non-obvious surface to make fully sure that you are satisfied with the results - in other words do not rely solely on my advice and do read and follow manufacturer instructions. <S> This can be a huge project (I can speak to it after doing a whole kitchen some 25 years ago and many cans of very smelly strong stripper later) but can be the best way to get cabinets look close to new again. <S> Mine in that project had two coats of paint over original baked on blond finish on ash wood. <S> After re-finishing they looked awesome. <S> If there is physical damage to doors and drawer fronts you could consider another option that is available. <S> There are businesses that will apply a new covering all over the visible parts of the cabinets. <S> I have a hard time recommending this approach because I think the results of such effort are ugly. <A> Since I am selling and wanted to do the least amount of work as possible and cost, I ended up with trying Restor-A-Finish by Howard based on some recommendations. <S> It was a simple just wipe it on no brainer. <S> The look is just what I was after. <A> If there are holes you'll need to fill them with a wood filler. <S> You post no pictures so it's hard to comment. <S> However, I'd be tempted to paint them a light colour (close to white or cream) to freshen them up and brighten up the room. <S> Light colours give a sense of space and modernness. <S> Although that's just my personal opinion.
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You could just clean them, but if they are badly marked then give them a light sand and re-varnish. In cases where the finish is completely gone and bare wood is showing it may be necessary to go to the extreme and strip off all the old finish, sand and re-finish.
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How do I bend a wooden edging for a tile counter top? I'm about to build a tile counter top (or bench top as we call it here) for a new kitchen. I'm going to be using large porcelain floor tiles on top and thought I'd finish the edges with a nice native timber. The top I'm working on is the breakfast bar where one end sticks out a little way. I thought perhaps I could lightly curve it to give it a more natural feel and take away the harsh lines. However, the timber I have in mind for the edging is some old and dry wood I have lying around called Rimu . Is it even possible to curve this timber or would I need a new timber that is perhaps softer? I've heard that people can use steam or a series of cuts. I don't have access to a steam box and cutting it the traditional way with lots of fine cuts only leaves one edge nice not the top and the side. Is there perhaps another method I could use in my home workshop? <Q> Unless the wood is rotted or extremely old <S> I doubt its age will have an effect on shaping. <S> Commercial lumber is kiln-dried to a relatively low humidity anyway. <S> I can think of a couple of options for bending the wood: <S> If you're talking just a gentle arc along the counter edge I think this would work, but if you want a tight turn at the corner than definitely not. <S> Of course there is a risk of breaking it, so I would only try this if you have a spare piece or don't mind buying another. <S> Making a homemade steam box is easier than you might think, especially if you're a little handy and only want to bend a few pieces. <S> You just need a closed container that's long enough to hold the item (a PVC pipe, or metal dryer vent, or some scrap plywood assembled in a box), and an electric kettle as the source of the steam. <S> Cut a hole in the side of your box and connect it somehow to the spout or top of your electric kettle. <S> E.g. a piece of garden hose, some tubing, more pipe, etc. <S> Get the whole thing sealed up as best you can with duct tape / caulking. <S> Then just fill up the kettle with water and turn it on! <S> Ideally you would stick a meat thermometer in there <S> so you can tell when the wood reaches an appropriate temperature. <S> Any insulation you can wrap around the outside of the box will make the steaming process faster. <S> If the piece you want to bend is small, you can actually just stick it in the microwave to soften it up. <A> There are two traditional ways to bend wood: <S> You can cut it into very thin sections, and then laminate them into a bend. <S> This works better on some woods than others. <S> You can steam the wood. <S> This is done in a box or in a plastic pipe. <A> Another way to trim a rounded corner is to use wood stock that is custom cut to fit the curve. <S> This can be particularly effective for small radius corners and can be done in one or multiple pieces around the corner. <S> If multiple pieces are used they would be mitered as appropriate. <S> The choice of multiple pieces or not would depend on the lay of the wood grain in the final installation. <S> More pieces exposes less cross grain of the wood. <S> Here is the basic way that the piece is cut for a one piece corner: <S> These can be cut with a bandsaw and sanded to fit. <S> The parts can also be cut with a router and jig to get precise curves. <S> The router technique is particularly useful if you are fitting up multiple corners with multiple pieces at each corner.
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Depending on how thin the edging is and how much it's going to curve, you may just be able to bend it by hand as you attach it.
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Is it okay to run a switched and unswitched hot on the same neutral? I have a room where I need to toggle the lights by a switch and the outlets in the room to not be affected by the switch. As they are on the same circuit, am I able to run a 3 wire cable from the switch so that I'm feeding switched and non-switched power throughout? A little ASCII art to explain: Incoming cable Outgoing cable-------------- -------- -------------- Hot (from service) |switch| Hot (from switch)Neutral (from service) -------- Hot (from service) Neutral I suspect this isn't an issue because everything is on the same circuit, but thought I'd double check since I would normally pair a neutral with every single hot line. EDIT: Just so there are no misundersandings, the incoming and outgoing cable also have a ground wire in them. <Q> There is no problem with this. <S> In fact it's very common, especially when wiring ceiling fans. <S> The power (2 wire /w ground) enters the switch box, then a switched hot and unswitched hot are supplied to the fan (3 wire /w ground). <S> This allows the light to be toggled by the wall switch, while the fan is toggled by the switch on the fixture. <S> It's also a common practice to wire duplex receptacles this way, where one half of the device is always powered and the other half is controlled by a switch (in which case the tab separating the two halves should be removed on the ungrounded (hot) side). <S> The grounded (neutral) conductor will carry the combined current of the two ungrounded (hot) conductors, so any inductive coupling will still be canceled out. <S> The current on the ungrounded (hot) conductors will be limited by the overcurrent device, so too much current <S> should never flow on the neutral. <A> This is OK except at some point the 3-wire exit cable (+GND) is going to branch off to go to the outlet box. <S> This most likely will be happening in the box that the switched light mounts to. <S> In that case you will obviously connecting in a neutral / unswitched hot wire pair off to the outlet(s). <S> If the outlet boxes branch off before the last light box then that last light box(es) will require just a two conductor cable (+GND). <A> You will have hot/neutral/ground coming in. <S> To your light(s) that you want to toggle you need to have hot/neutral/ground. <S> To the rest of the outlets you need <S> hot/neutral/ground going out to them. <S> If everything is starting at this light switch then you would have Your "power" line coming in - 3 wires <S> You would have 3 small wires to go from live to switch <S> You would have have your line out to the outlets <S> So to recap - You would have 3 black, 3 (white) neutral, 3 green (ground) <S> all individually capped. <S> You would install the other end of your 3 "short" wires to the light switch. <S> The other "end" of your light switch would feed your lights, and the near end goes into light switch. <S> The other end of your outlet circuit (3 wires) goes out to your outlet run
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If there is more than one switched light box you may extend the three conductor cable (+GND) through to the far light box if the outlets feed off the end of the last light box. Since the circuit is protected by an overcurrent device (circuit breaker/fuse), there is no way to overload the grounded (neutral) conductor.
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Can I reduce static pressure in one room by adding a vent to an adjoining room? Our return vent for our hvac is right outside the master bedroom. The master bedroom gets very little airflow with the door shut. It was recommended that we add secondary return duct in the master bedroom to combat the high static pressure that the house is under. I have a question though, would it be beneficial to put a vent in the wall between the master bedroom and living room to help ventilate air in and out of the room so there is not as much pressure in the master bedroom? <Q> Yes, adding a transfer grille or jump duct will be the easiest and most effective solution. <S> It can be done in a way to minimize transfer of sound between rooms (see links below). <S> http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/information-sheet-transfer-grilles-and-ducts/ <S> https://basc.pnnl.gov/resource-guides/transfer-grilles <A> Assuming the high static pressure is proportionately on the return side, your best solution for better Master BR flow is the new return. <S> Siting the return across the room (from the supply, if possible) will help. <S> If you are still having high static on return, look at the existing return duct covers. <S> Older houses can have less aerodynamic (painting, denting) covers. <S> Replacing with newer ones can help. <S> The vent between the rooms would be less useful AFA static pressure, as the ducts are the main conveyors of the airflow/pressure. <A> Add the return in the room on a side opposite of your positive pressure vents. <S> If you just want a quick/easy fix, the opening through the walls should be helpful so long as the existing vent is not along the same wall. <S> If this system is one of many, and its positive pressure vents are all in rooms with doors <S> I highly suggest closing the central return, and adding a return to each room, and putting a damper in each supply duct for fine tuning the flow. <S> I have done this in my last two houses, and the comfort difference in the rooms is outstanding. <S> Make sure your thermostat is in one of these rooms, or move it there if not; preferably to the master. <S> Easiest solution <S> You may freeze or roast others, and it will cost you more in utility consumption, but it will be easy and get the desired result. <A> I've seen new construction adding a pair of return grilles to each side of a wall separating a room from the return vent. <S> This gives a path for air to flow. <S> I'd also recommend angling the slats in the grille <S> so you cannot see into the wall (angled up for ceiling returns and down for floor returns). <S> And for a bedroom, consider a location that minimizes noises heard on either side of the wall, for privacy.
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If possible, put the return grilles at the same height as the return vent itself (near the ceiling on upper floors and near the floor on lower levels). I imagine this is more efficient as well, since you are likely keeping these rooms cooled/heated while sleeping and not loosing temp controlled air to the central area that is not in use. : move your thermostat to the master bedroom as well and you will always have the temp you want in your room. Adding a return to the master bedroom doesn't guarantee that the supply/return to the master bedroom will become balanced—the resulting pressure may still be positive or even negative with respect to the rest of the house.
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Why is there a beaded tie on new fire extinguishers? When I see fire extinguishers these days they seem to have some form of the yellow beaded tie as shown in this photo. What purpose does this serve? It looks to me like it prevents the pin from pulling out. Hardly something you'd want in a fire. I've never had to use a fire extinguisher in real life, so please forgive my ignorance. Shouldn't the yellow tie be cut off? <Q> The plastic ties are a tamper evident device, which lets you know if the fire extinguisher has been used. <S> It also helps to prevent the pin from accidentally becoming dislodged, and potentially lost. <S> They have a very low breaking strength, and can easily be broken by twisting (or pulling, but more difficult) the pin from the extinguisher. <A> I believe it's there to indicate that the pin has never been removed... to separate a factory new extinguisher from another. <S> I have removed the plastic tie from all the extinguishers in my home. <A> I found this, as I was wondering myself, and didn't know if I should keep it on or take it off, if I did would I lose the pin, <S> if I didn't, would I be sorry in the event of an emergency. <S> http://www.supplyplaza.com/pull-tite-fire-extinguisher-seals-blank-p-649-l-en.html <S> Our fire extinguisher seals are tamper evident seals that allow you to tell at a glance if the seal has been compromised, yet are easy to break in an emergency. <S> Standard pull-tite seals are a common safety feature for use on fire extinguishers <S> so you know if the extinguisher has been used – don't take the chance that someone has tampered with the fire extinguisher and exhausted it, leaving it empty in the event of an emergency. <S> This polypropylene fire extinguisher security seal with has an average break strength of 13.5 lbs and 9.5" in overall length. <S> Usable strap length is 7" and the diameter is 2.6 mm (0.1"). <S> The flag is 0.8" by 1.3". <S> Custom printing is available on all fire extinguisher seals with fast turnaround: print names, numbers or custom logos on the seal with no minimum quantity. <A> This is typically performed annually, beginning with the date of installation. <A> More of a FYI <S> but there are alternatives as well, some companies are switching their residential lines to use plastic pull pins that has a smaller resistance to pull out that it sounds like some people would prefer. <S> Personally it was just the one I happened to pick up a few years ago <S> so I have one at my house. <S> Here's some example photos of the Kidde FA110 <S> I needed something more than a comment to post an image. <A> As others have said, it is a tamper indicator. <S> The reason fire extinguishers have tamper indicators is that they must be recharged after each use: <S> Extinguishers must be recharged after every use. <S> Ask the dealer about the extinguisher and how it should be serviced and inspected. <S> A partially used unit might as well be empty. <S> You'll find this sort of warning in just about any fire extinguisher manual. <S> Once a fire extinguisher is partially discharged, it will lose pressure over time: <S> DO NOT FUNCTIONALLY TEST THIS FIRE EXTINGUISHER . <S> (Testing or any use may cause the extinguisher to gradually lose pressure over a period of time and make the extinguisher ineffective.) <S> Since not everyone reads the manuals, they can't be expected to know this. <S> The pressure gauge is not necessarily a reliable indicator of whether or not the unit has been discharged. <S> The tamper indicator will tell you whether or not your extinguisher needs to be tested or recharged.
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Another possibility, if this extinguisher's tag has a number or date (or if the tag is a form of color-coding), is that this may be used to indicate when the extinguisher was last inspected as part of a regular inspection and maintenance plan.
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What would cause air bubbles in the toilet when I'm showering? My basement bathroom has recently been remodeled, everything was working fine for a few weeks, but now all of a sudden I am hearing bubbles in the toilet when I shower, at which point the shower drain begins to back up. The shower drain runs downstream to the bathroom sink (which has a vent stack) then to the toilet. I have not had any problems with the sink drain slowing or backing up.. just the shower and toilet. Within an hour or so of the shower draining out I can use the toilet again without any problems, but when the shower is used again the same problem persists.. What is causing this? <Q> Sounds like the main drain for the bathroom may be restricted. <S> As you shower the water doesn't drain away fast enough, and the plumbing begins to fill with water. <S> Since the tub is the lowest drain, the water backs up there first. <S> If you continued to shower, you'd eventually see the toilet overflow as well (if the tub edge is higher than the toilet rim). <S> If the tub was deep enough, you'd eventually see the sink overflow too. <S> If you look at this crude representation of your bathroom, you'll be able to see what I mean. <S> Now, if we add in a clog we can start to see what happens when you shower. <S> As you shower the water cannot pass through the clog fast enough, and the pipes begin to fill. <S> At this point, any air trapped in the line between the drain and the toilet trap will be forced out and bubble up trough the trap. <S> As you continue to shower, the tub is the first to back up. <S> Eventually, if you shower long enough the toilet could also overflow. <S> Depending on the height of the sink, quite a bit of the bathroom would have to fill before it overflowed. <S> The first thing I'd try is to clear the drain using a Plumber's snake . <S> A hand auger would likely work, and can be purchased at a local hardware store fairly cheaply. <S> Drill powered augers are also available for a bit higher price, but require a bit more of a gentle touch (and obviously a drill). <S> Another option is that the vent for the bathroom is clogged, or not sized appropriately. <S> If vent stacks are not covered properly, leaves and other debris can become lodged in the pipe and prevent air flow. <S> A clogged vent will cause the fixtures it's venting to drain slowly, and the results can be similar to a clog as described above. <S> As with the clog, the solution to clear the blocked vent is a Plumber's snake. <A> I do not agree with Tester's assessment <S> but I do agree with his pictures. <S> If the shower is not vented the air in the pipe will go out the easiest place which is the toilet - and this is a plumbing design flaw. <S> If you had a restriction then you would probably have water backup in shower. <A> The remodeler needs to fix it. <S> No telling what kind of up-hill drain is involved. <S> Was there a permit and inspection? <S> My daughter had a remodeler do her master bath. <S> They didn't even put a trap in the shower drain. <S> No permit. <S> No inspection. <S> Had to hire a real plumber to fix it.
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As the pipes fill, air may be forced out through the toilet trap causing "bubbles".
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Are plywood dovetails a good solution to building something that needs to be dismantled? Are hand cut, plywood dove tails feasible? Assuming you can get "good" plywood, i.e. not the brittle splinter-fest I've seen around, is dovetailing feasible? I'd like to avoid using glue for the corner joins as I'd like to be able to dismantle it to transport it. If they are feasible, any recommendations on what specs to look for? My assumptions having had a gander at the interwebs is: Use thick plywood so there is enough surface area for the dovetail to hold. Use some kind of backing board when cutting to minimise splintering at the edge of the cut (maybe cheaper plywood or MDF?) This is an assumption, but a very fine toothed dove tail saw This is the structure I am building (minis the horizontal supports, I know is won't hold up as is) It will be used as a computer desk. <Q> Dove tails are designed to make a strong and attractive joint that is meant to be permanent. <S> For advice on how to create effective joints that are straight forward to put together and take apart take a study of the techniques used by kit furniture producers. <S> The types of fastener hardware illustrated can be purchased from a number of on-line wood worker suppliers (leevalley, mcfeelys, woodcraft, rockler). <S> Search for terms including "cam locks", "counter top connector", and "knock-down fasteners". <A> Dovetails are frequently cut in plywood, but they are typically done by machine. <S> The resin between the plys will be very hard on the edge of your chisels and to a lesser extent the handsaw. <S> If you were gluing up this project I would say dovetails cut with a router and jig would be great. <S> However if you need to be able to disassemble/reassemble dovetails are a poor choice. <S> It will be hard to disassemble without damaging the dovetails - either breaking them off or deforming them and making the joints sloppy. <S> You may look into pocket screws as a possible alternative. <S> Or use regular screws that would be visible and turn them into a design element. <S> I am assuming you are planning to support the horizontal surfaces by attaching them to the wall behind them. <S> If not, you need to reconsider your overall design as there isn't any joint that will support the full weight on the unsupported end. <A> Definitely a option <S> but if you are dismantling it, I would use something like box joints. <S> If you are planning on gluing it at some point and want more strength than box joints, I would do dovetail joints. <S> What you are trying to build would provide insight into what you should use.
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Dove tail joints are not a good option for any type of furniture that you would later hope to take back apart.
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Why does my GFCI trip when I plug things into load side receptacles? I installed a new outdoor circuit. The line comes out of the house and into the LINE side of the GFCI outlet. I connected a wire to the LOAD side and ran it to two standard outlets downstream. My tester says the circuit is wired properly at all the outlets; the tester button appropriately trips the GFCI when used. Here's the problem: devices plugged directly into the GFCI outlet work fine. However, when I plug the same devices (I tested a light, a fan, and a grounded shop vac) into the downstream outlets, they trip the GFCI. I'm stumped. Help? <Q> Check for a neutral to ground short somewhere on the load side of the GFCI and downstream outlets. <S> Also, make sure there isn't a shared neutral with any other circuit and that you don't have a connection from the neutral load directly to the line side of the GFCI (in other words, the whites cannot all be pigtailed together, the line and load neutrals must be separated by the GFCI). <A> Check reversed hot/neutral at downstream outlets. <S> Also check for leakage paths to ground through abraded/punctured cable. <S> There are some related tips here , related to keeping Load and Line neutrals separate (hots too) <A> The easiest way to have this happen is to have connected and be feeding only the downstream hot or the downstream neutral through the GFCI outlet, but not both. <S> A downstream interconnection or swapping of the grounded and grounding conductors, aka the neutral and the safety ground will also cause this to happen. <S> Buildings constructed prior to the adoption of the 1965 National Electrical Code when the separate grounding conductor was added are particularly likely to have an unexpected interconnection. <S> A GFCI outlet interrupts the circuit when the current in the ungrounded (hot) conductor and the grounded (neutral) conductors isn't exactly balanced equal and opposite (except for a small permitted leakage). <S> Any of the previously described wiring errors will result in an unbalanced current current through the GFCI causing it to trip.
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Wire up a short stub outlet in place of your downstream cabling and verify GFCI vs your cabling.
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Do I have to bury PVC pipe if used outdoors? I will be installing a hose spigot in a lower patio area that, till now, has had to have several lengths of hose to provide water for some potted plants. There is an existing spigot on a 3/4" copper pipe on the other side of the house a good 65-80' depending on the route I choose to take. I plan to tee off of it and then it will go one of two routes to the lower patio. Digging a trench may not be an option due to rock and trees in the way so, it may be exposed to sun light, which would be a good reason to go copper but that could (will) get costly and be a lot more laborious then PVC. If I do go the PVC route should I use the same diameter pipe as the copper service? Do I have to bury it? If I can't bury it, what are my options? <Q> PVC does not need to be buried, however the advantages are: Protection from impact breakage (schedule <S> 40 PVC is relatively brittle and can break easily). <S> Protection from UV light <S> (PVC like most plastics is affected by UV, this can be overcome by painting the pipe). <S> Protection from freezing, if buried below the frost line. <S> It will most likely be 1/2" or 3/4" (some come with both sizes). <S> When dealing with different materials, use the same nominal pipe size (3/4" copper = 3/4" PVC). <S> Personally, I would look at using PEX pipe and bury where possible. <S> Also due to its flexibility, you can run it without the need for additional fittings. <S> If you don't have PEX crimpers, you can use Sharkbite push-on fittings (the same fittings can be used to transition from copper to PEX). <A> What we use here in NZ on farms and so forth is a piping product we called Alkathene. <S> It's actually a polythene based LDPE piping and you can get matching fittings for it. <S> I'm sure you'll be able to find it where you are <S> but it may be named something different. <S> This stuff is much tougher than the garden watering system type piping you get. <S> It can take a strong mains pressure and not leak. <S> It's easy to work with, easy to cut and flexible. <S> It looks like this: <S> And you can get a range of fittings like right angles or Reducing elbows with which you can screw a normal tap fitting into etc. <S> Some of the fittings don't require any plumbing tape. <S> I used some to extend my house hose tap from the wall to a place more useful in the garden. <S> I did that by removing the old tap and permanently fitting the alkathene to it using the appropriate fittings. <S> A few times I've had the water freeze in the pipes due to heavy frost <S> but there was no leak or burst pipe issues. <S> Part of it is buried and part is also out in the open under the harsh NZ sun. <S> So I think it would work well for you. <S> Use U clamps to anchor it against a wall or concrete patio or whatever and route it where you want it to go. <S> I guess you're wondering, why it's not used indoors? <S> Well, I'm not really sure. <S> It might be because it's less rigid and perhaps not tested for the indoor environment. <S> Farmers have been using this stuff here since the 1980's. <S> I can also tell you the run to my hose tap has never leaked in the 8 or so years I've had it installed (except when I ran over the exposed bit with the lawn mower by accident!). <S> Anyway, do check it out as a possible option over regular PVC. <A> PVC is manufactured using a type 3 resin. <S> When exposed to heat and UV it releases extremely dangerous toxins. <S> This can be very dangerous when drinking from the pipe.
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The exposed pipe will be less susceptible to breakage than PVC. As for pipe size, it depends on the size of hose spigot you use.
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What besides smoke might trigger a hardwired smoke detector? Sometimes my hardwired smoke alarm goes off for a few seconds for no apparent reason. For example I am not cooking or burning any substance. It is 3 years old and has a new battery. Other than smoke, are there unusual gases or particles that will activate it? The ionization type detector in question is a BRK First Alert Model No. 9120B <Q> My hard wired smoke alarms go off for no reason once in a while. <S> I noticed it often happens during sudden weather changes so it might be humidity. <S> I also wonder if small insects might get into the alarms and trigger them <A> I've seen them triggered by steam, dust, and aerosols (hairspray). <S> Basically, they are succeptible to small, airborne particles. <S> Most smoke detectors activate when the particles of smoke (or other substances) "block" the detector (which is usually either alpha radiation based or optical). <A> I've mainly found that apart from smoke that drywall (Gyprock/Plasterboard) dust can set off smoke alarms in an instance. <S> Also, electric power tools (like drills) can cause a spark which produces a smoke like odor setting them off in an instance. <A> See if there's anything "running" or being turned on and off at the time of your next alarm. <A> Most hard wired smoke detectors made within the past 5 years also detect Carbon Monoxide- which is a good reason to get everyone out of the house until you know what's causing the problem.
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An electrician added a ceiling fan to the same circuit of my wired smoke alarms and that would trigger the alarms for short periods of time when the fan was running, it was very intermittent and it could be days between alarms. You can also vacuum the detector to take care of any build up of dust, this is a good thing to do yearly anyways.
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Do I need a corded drill to mix thinset? I've been looking at tearing out my fiberglass shower, installing Kerdi, and re-tiling the whole thing. During my research into this project, I've come across quite a few forums that have members typing in all caps about not mixing thinset with a cordless drill because the motor will burn out. Is this true? Even for small batches? My shower is only 3' W x 3' D x 6' H. I've got an older DeWalt 14.4V drill that's on it's way to retirement (its batteries aren't holding a charge well), as well as a new Milwaukee M12 lithium ion 12V drill and an M12 Fuel 1/4" impact driver. Is one of those sufficient or should I go buy a cheap HF corded drill or check Craigslist to add to my growing collection of tools-that-rotate-things? <Q> I once had to install about 2.7 square meters of tiling and mixed several small batches of thinset with a spattle - no problems at all, I wasted much more time on applying the thinset and installing the tiles evenly. <S> Totally not worth risking the drill. <S> Drills explicitly suitable for mixing are typically professional drills with very low RPM (500-700 RPM) and so very high torque. <S> The "HF corded drill" you reference is nothing near that. <S> Drills with overload protection are typically professional cordless drills with smart electronics that monitors all the parts for overheating and reduces the output power in case of overload. <S> The Milwaukee M12 you have likely has the right type of overload protection (that's the impression I have from reading the online specs of the drill) <S> and so you likely could use it for this purpose. <A> 1) <S> The issue is not so much the total amount of work the drill will need to perform over the course of your project. <S> The issue is more with the load you will be putting on the drill at any given moment. <S> Chucking a small stirrer will (likely) let the drill operate within it's design specs. <S> Chucking a larger stirrer will (likely) force the drill to operate outside it's design specs. <S> 2) <S> For any power tool, if it starts to overheat, then it is best to stop and assess the situation. <S> Unfortunately, there is no answer to what temperature constitutes the threshold for overheating. <S> 3) <S> For any power tool, if the rpm drops significantly when put under load, then it is best to stop and assess the situation. <S> Unfortunately, there is no answer to what rpm drop constitutes an overload. <S> 4) For either overheating or rpm-drop, the inadequacy could be with the tool or could be with the power supply, for example an extension cord whose gauge and length are too small/long for the task. <S> 5) <S> Given that, I suggest going ahead with your existing drills. <S> If you encounter warming or rpm-drop, stop, let it cool, and switch to a smaller stirrer perhaps by cutting off some of the 'paddle'. <S> 2 , 3 , 4 apply to any tool/project. <S> I wonder if a variable speed 1/2" router would work? <A> Mixing thinset by hand while remodeling a small shower with Kerdi and new tile wasn't a physically taxing process for me, but YMMV. <S> By the way, the John Bridge forums were the most helpful resource that I found during my research and remodeling job. <A> I use my cordless Makita to mix thinset with a small paddle. <S> I get through one mixing per battery - batteries <S> are 3 years old. <S> The method I use if I am doing a full bag is about 6 inches of water and slowly pour the powder in. <S> When it gets anywhere near oatmeal consistency, more water. <S> Then I pour more powder. <S> Repeat 1-2 more times. <S> Once all powder is in I am mainly mixing the top 10-12 inches. <S> I take a putty knife and scoop the bottom every 45 secs of stirring. <S> I also stir in reverse and forward almost equal. <S> Others may have their own method <S> but I found that stirring the very bottom with a paddle is useless. <S> Basically you push down the powder not mix it. <S> Rolling the powder up with a putty knife is a little messy but saves 5-10 mins of mixing. <S> Also when I am using my drill I am hardly ever pegging it. <S> I want it going at a medium pace <S> and I am moving the paddle around the bucket randomly.
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First of all, I have to say that with the volume of work you have you can just mix the thinset by hand. Next, you should not use any drill for mixing unless its manual says it's suitable for mixing or that it has overload protection that slows the drill down in case of overload.
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Is it safe/compliant for one circuit to supply grounded wall outlets in both a kitchen and a living room? On one side of my wall (in kitchen, not the refrigerator or stove plug) is a three prong grounded outlet. Would it work without overloading a circuit to put a new outlet on the other side of the wall (the living room)? Any special precautions I should take? The house is small and short on plugs, so I could use a few more. Is this OK or not OK? <Q> National Electrical Code says no. <S> National Electrical Code 2008 <S> ARTICLE 210 Branch Circuits <S> 210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets. <S> (B) <S> Small Appliances. <S> (1) Receptacle Outlets Served. <S> In the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all countertop outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment. <S> (2) <S> No Other Outlets. <S> The two or more small-appliance branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no other outlets. <S> (3) Kitchen Receptacle Requirements. <S> Additional small-appliance branch circuits shall be permitted to supply receptacle outlets in the kitchen and other rooms specified in 210.52(B)(1). <S> No small-appliance branch circuit shall serve more than one kitchen. <S> 210.52(B)(1) basically says, that all the receptacles in the kitchen should be supplied by 2 or more 20A circuits. <S> 210.52(B)(2) says that there should be no other outlets on these 2 or more circuits, which means no lighting outlets and no outlets outside of the kitchen. <S> 210.52(B)(3) says that the 2 or more circuits, can be used to supply receptacles in other ' related ' rooms (pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area). <S> Even though the kitchen and living room may share a wall; according to NEC 2008, they cannot share an electrical circuit. <A> Your question does not provide enough information for a definitive answer, but load calculations are not difficult. <S> First, you should only load a circuit to 80% of capacity, so a 15amp circuit should only have 12amps of load. <S> Amps = <S> Watts/Volts. <S> Add up the wattage of all the devices plugged into that circuit and divide by your household voltage. <S> If you are in North America, this is 120V. <S> Lets say you have ten 10 50watt lights: Amps = (10 * 50) / <S> 120 <S> = 4.12Amps. <S> If this were above 10 <S> I'd say you should consider adding a new circuit since you would be just on the cusp of overloading the circuit. <A> This answer only applies if your jurisdiction accepts the NEC as the model code. <S> Even if it does not apply, it gives you some idea where an authoritative code organization stands on this issue. <S> Generally, you cannot extend such circuits in a kitchen at all, however there is an exception for certain related rooms such as dining or breakfast rooms or pantries where it is acceptable to extend kitchen circuits. <S> First add all permanently connected loads on the circuit, fridges, lights, dishwashers, disposers, etc. <S> Then for all convenience receptacles not having a permanent device connected, assume each receptacle strap in a residential occupancy would draw 180va for load calculation purposes. <S> some simultaneous, others possibly not. <S> 180 is simply a happy medium to limit the number of outlets on any given circuit. <S> One is not required to anticipate the actual load of every device connected to any particular outlet if it can be easily unplugged and moved elsewhere.
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Receptacles installed in a kitchen to serve countertop surfaces shall be supplied by not fewer than two small-appliance branch circuits, either or both of which shall also be permitted to supply receptacle outlets in the same kitchen and in other rooms specified in 210.52(B)(1). You may NOT extend a kitchen outlet circuit to serve a living room. In this case, you can safely add another outlet because there are about 8amps of capacity left. The code recognizes some outlets are not used and others used could draw much more than 180va, As for determining whether an added receptacle would overload the circuit, as mentioned, the total load cannot exceed 80% of the circuit ampacity. How to determine this load has been misrepresented as it relates to NEC requirements.
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What type of outlet is in the picture? I recently purchased a early 1970's home that has this interesting outlet installed in the master bedroom. It is the only outlet in the entire house like this and I'm not real sure what it is for and if it should be removed. I haven't checked it for voltage or current yet as I don't have a multi-meter handy. Just by looking, can anyone identify this for me? Is it safe, should it be removed? I haven't been able to see what it's wired to in the attic yet either as the wall is hard to get to in the attic. <Q> My guess is that it is a 300 ohm terminal for a rooftop television antenna. <S> I'm surprised it doesn't have any labelling molded in. <S> I googled a bit, and found this thread <S> where someone followed their attic antenna lead down to an identical wall plate. <A> Take the cover off and see if it is electric, wiring for an alarm system, intercom, or whatever. <S> but you cannot hide it behind drywall - <S> that might be the reason the plate is still on there. <S> If it is just speaker wire or low voltage that is not in use then you can cover with drywall. <A> I have one like it <S> and when my parents built their house it was for a TV antenna in 1973. <S> Ours is definitely pre cable TV antenna.
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If you pull it out, I think you'll find a flat 300 ohm (non-coaxial) antenna cable inside. If it is just electric you can do whatever you want with it
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Best tool & method for cutting steel tubes (table legs)? I have a table that I want to cut the hollow steel legs down to coffee table height. These are the table legs I have: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70217973/ What's the best tool and method to do this simply? A hack saw? Some special bit for a drill? <Q> You may want to use a jig of some sort, such as a miterbox, to keep your cut square to the piece. <S> Tape around the diameter to minimize chipping of the finish. <S> File down the cut edge to remove the burrs from sawing, using a metal file, followed by emory paper. <S> If there is a finishing cap on the bottom, you may be able to pry it from the cut off section and reinsert it in the shorter leg. <S> There are alternatives for cutting tubing, such as a tubing cutter (but not especially well suited to steel - save for softer metals, such as copper), Dremel-type tool (small grinding system with "cutoff wheels", basically abrasive disks - slow, better for smaller items), abrasive grinding tools (somewhat crude and messy) and metal cutting miter saws (a bit of overkill unless you have it at hand). <S> For all of these cuttings (especially motorized ones) use safety glasses! <S> It's all fun and games until someone gets a metal shaving in the eye. <A> NOt as High Tech as Bib's answer but its still popular and only requires a bit of elbow grease. <S> A hand held hacksaw with a blade designed for steel. <S> TIPS <S> The blades sharp edges need to curve/point towards yourself (called a pull-cut orientation). <S> So it will cut when you pull back. <S> Otherwise you will have a really hard time doing this. <S> Apparently a push-cut orientated blade cuts easier as pointed out by AJMansfield <S> The blade should be tightly tensioned and if cutting for an extended time tighten it more when the blade heats up. <S> You can use a metal file to straighten out your edge. <A> My favorite technique (if I don't care to load a 12" metal cutoff blade in my miter saw) is have a helper slowly rotate cylinder (works well with large PVC, too) away from me while I hold a 4 1/2 angle grinder with a metal blade. <S> Start by wrapping blue tape around the leg. <S> The same rotation technique with a pencil will yield a cut line. <S> A tight string is another way to mark. <S> The usual safety gear: eye, hand, hearing, dust mask. <A> Small angle-grinder. <S> Or failing that, a large hacksaw. <S> Or failing that, a small hacksaw. <S> Each will be slower and more annoying than the one before. <S> All will need filing/evening etc. <S> afterward. <S> Watch out for sparks with the angle-grinder.
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A hack saw is a fine tool to cut fairly thin gauge tubing (which this seems to be).
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How do I repair my cracked shower pan? My shower pan, made of gel-coated fiber glass, has three cracks, as shown in the photo below. The cracks radiate fairly straight from the drain in the center at twelve, four, and eight o'clock. (All of the other white streaks are just gel-coat coloring.) I ground away the cracks and filled them with epoxy, which seems to work okay for the time being. But I would like to know what my options are for a more permanent fix that won't significantly reduce the value. Replacing the pan is the last thing I want to do. The pan matches the shower walls and a whirlpool bath. A lot of things would have to come out to get to the pan, and I can't imagine a matching pan replacement would be found. I saw a video where someone had what appeared to be a process for this kind of repair. This involved what looked like an epoxied sheet that covers the entire pan bottom on the top side. I don't know what this is called and I don't know what kind of tradesman I should contact to do this sort of fix. (It doesn't seem like something that a plumber/pipe-fitter type would specialize in.) If someone can point me in the right direction for this, I would appreciate it. Any other ideas on what I can do and what is common for addressing this sort of problem would be appreciated. The shower is on the second floor and there is some water damage to the ceiling below. As I walk around the shower pan, I can hear some creaking, and I assume this will lead to flexing and open the cracks up again. I may need to resolve that, too, in the final fix. Does anyone have any suggestions about this? Also, help with the tags would be appreciated. Update From what I have seen in the answers and comments, I need to seriously reconsider how I might remove the pan from the top, remove the subfloor, mitigate any water damage between the subfloor and ceiling below, then rebuild in reverse. I need to understand how the pan is seated, so I have to examine the situation a little more. But I may be able (with some risk of damage) to remove the shower wall on the shower-head side and remove the short wall under the seat at the other end. Remove the glass enclosure (I did this once before, but I did a hell of a job gluing it back together :( )Without removing the wall opposite the glass door, I might be able to lift the pan out carefully. I have to disengage the drain first, and I don't know how that attaches to the pan. (Do I need to open up the ceiling below so I can get to it from there?) This sounds complicated mostly because I'm guessing how it's all put together and how things are fastened to each other. My goal would be to repair the pan rather than replace it. Putting it back together, I suppose I can strengthen the pan with fiberglass on the bottom. As for dealing with irregularities that could cause it to rock, isn't there something I can bed the pan onto the subfloor with? <Q> You need to fall out of love with this pan - it is broke. <S> Why would you want to go through all of this work and compromise your work with a broken pan? <S> This is a decent size project - <S> GET A NEW PAN. <S> These pans are not that much compared to how much it will cost you to do this again. <A> You are trying to build a temple on a broken foundation. <S> No amount of patching will fix the broken connection between the drain and the pan. <S> Without some type of oversize flange drain (e.g., Schluter Kerdi Drain ), there is no way to transfer the water from a overlaid membrane into the drain proper, because the seal around the drain to the pan has failed. <S> As far as the creaking goes, once you open up the ceiling, you will see if the subfloor is intact or water damaged. <S> If intact, some cross <S> bracing under the pan area can be installed <S> (2x material of the same depth as the joists, can be hung with joist hangers ). <S> The typical source of the problem is insufficient web structure under the pan, allowing flexing. <S> Another source is too large a cut-out of the subfloor and drain movement. <S> AFA who, a contractor specializing in remodeling and baths. <S> It is a blend of trades: plumbing, tile setting, carpentry, drywall. <A> What you need is called an Tub Inlay. <S> It consists of what appears to be a bathmat that is fused to the shower floor giving it strength. <S> Make sure you ask about the adhesive they use. <S> You want to make sure the adhesive being used fuses the inlay to the shower pan and not just glues it down. <S> All the DIY kits I have seen merely glue it down. <S> This will cause problems over time. <S> The down side is that you will be limited in color. <S> Usually they are bone or white. <S> If you need help locating someone that can help you, let me know. <A> I have recently repaired a cracked leaking shower pan. <S> Here's the process I used: <S> Use a 4" mini grinder with a 1/8" thick metal cutting wheel. <S> If you think the drain to pipe connection has failed, mark an 8 to 10 in. <S> square around the drain, then cut through the pan. <S> A short blade jig saw will work for this part and makes less dust, it's just a little slower. <S> Lift out the loose pieces of pan and inspect. <S> If there's little to no structural damage to the floor decking and ceiling joists, clean and paint mildewed wood with Terminate Wood Preservative and Treatment. <S> Cut out remaining cracks to a width of 1" to 2". <S> Mix Premixed mortar with water till it is pourable and spreads rather than piles up when poured on a flat surface. <S> According to how large your pan is, you will use 4 to 5 or more 50 lb. <S> bags. <S> Fill the entire void under the pan to within a 1/4" of the surface; don't worry if you pour too much as you can scratch this out before it sets up. <S> Give it 2 or 3 days to set up. <S> Now mix and pour a 2 part fiberglass resin and pour to within a 1/16" of the surface. <S> This is a little more tricky to get level right, so first apply tape around the edges and have rags and acetone on hand for clean up. <S> Lowes, Home Depot etc., sell a tub and shower crack repair kit that you will mix and fill the remaining 1/16th inch depression to bring the surface flush with adjoining undamaged pan. <S> Let cure and polish per kit instructions. <S> NOTE: <S> If upon your initial inspection, after you have removed the first pieces of pan, you find more than minimal damage <S> /rot you must make necessary repairs to the floor decking and joist from underneath and then continue as described above.
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Look for a local tub refinishing company, many of them provide this service. If you want cheap get a used (unbroken) pan off of craigslist.
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Which side of a two-wire cable should be used for "hot"? I bought a custom length of a 16/2 cable (two 16-gauge stranded wires, individually insulated). The two wires have identical colors and insulation; the only thing to tell them apart is that along one, there's printed specs of the wire, such as 600V and max temp. I plan to use this wire for a ceiling light, and there's a chance that someone else will have to deal with this light if I move out and leave it installed. Of course, it's possible for someone else to figure out how the lamp is wired either by looking at the lamp's own color-coded wiring or by tracing an individual wire from the power receptacle. But is there a good way to label the two wires of my cable, to make it clearer which is the hot? Is there already a standard like, "the cable's side with the printed specs is the hot one"? <Q> NEC 2008 400.22(E & F) <S> For lamp cord, the following conventions are followed: <S> Polarized solid black, white or brown insulation Ribbed, grooved or striped side is grounded (neutral), smooth side is ungrounded (hot). <S> Clear insulation lamp cord Silver conductor is grounded (neutral), copper conductor is ungrounded (hot). <S> Grounded (neutral) goes to the threaded shell of the lamp and is wired direct without break to the wide blade of a polarized 2 prong plug or in the case of a suspended lamp, to the grounded (neutral) white wire. <S> Switching goes in the ungrounded (hot) side. <S> You never want the thread shell to be hot (switch in off position in the neutral side with intact filament). <S> The whole idea on zipcord is that you have some definite identifier as to what is grounded (neutral) to keep a continuous connection and wire properly to the lamp socket and wall plug. <S> National Electrical Code ARTICLE 400 Flexible Cords and Cables II. <S> Construction Specifications 400.22 Grounded-Conductor Identification. <S> One conductor of flexible cords that is intended to be used as a grounded circuit conductor shall have a continuous marker that readily distinguishes it from the other conductor or conductors. <S> The identification shall consist of one of the methods indicated in 400.22(A) through (F). <S> (E) Tinned Conductors. <S> One conductor having the individual strands tinned and the other conductor or conductors having the individual strands untinned for cords having insulation on the individual conductors integral with the jacket. <S> (F) Surface Marking. <S> One or more ridges, grooves, or white stripes located on the exterior of the cord so as to identify one conductor for cords having insulation on the individual conductors integral with the jacket. <S> Note: <S> National Electrical Code (NEC) is the US standard and quoting it defines this answer as being for US electrical power. <S> If your country differs, feel free to post your own answer with your country or jurisdiction identified. <A> Unfortunately in AC <S> you should conform to colour standards in your country. <S> But end of the day copper is copper. <S> If you take the measures to label the wire up where ever you are connecting them (LIVE and NEGATIVE) or something that makes sense to anybody with the least technical knowledge - That is just as good as using the colour specification. <S> This is good enough ... .. <S> but since you making the effort its best to label up as standard. <S> Please note though <S> Obviously both would fail an electrical inspection and could put your home insurance into a void clause. <S> Just so you know now and don't go <S> "nobody told me" later <A> When wiring a grounded power cord to an appliance: <S> The SMOOTH (right) side is hot = connect to BLACK. <S> The GROOVED (left) side is neutral = connect to WHITE. <S> Sound correct? <A> I'm in Canada.
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If the conductors are both the same color, the insulation is a single color and the printing is on one conductor's insulation only without rib (feel it with your fingers) or stripe, then that will be your continuous marker and grounded (neutral) indicator. Usually smooth side with writing is hot/black. Within DC applications the cable with writing / line / strand is the negative. In the event of a fire and inspection revealed uncertified installation could put you liable to service and damage costs.
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Why doesn't duct tape work well on cables? In the past, I've used duct tape on cables (e.g., Power, LAN). For instance, I taped cables to a wall, I taped cables together for storing etc. The taping often failed after some time: The taping surface on the cable became covered with an extremely sticky film. This film was always very nasty to remove. Main question: Is there an alternative adhesive tape that works with cables? It should be strong enough to hold cables to a wall. I'd also be interested in: Why doesn't duct tape work for cables? Is it the fault of plasticizers? Does the sticky film pose a health risk? <Q> To answer your questions: "Why doesn't duct tape work for cables? <S> Is it the fault of plasticizers? " <S> - No -- it is more likely that exposure to air dries the glue, causing it to eventually lose its tack and become unstuck. <S> This is also the reason that you're often left with sticky residue, as air was unable to penetrate to the underside of the glue. <S> "Does the sticky film pose a health risk?" <S> - The 3M MSDS does not list any potential health hazards associated with physical contact. <S> " [...] alternative adhesive tape that works with cables? <S> [...] <S> strong enough to hold cables to a wall." <S> - For simply bundling cables, I like to use the the Velcro cable ties. <S> I do not suggest buying them from general/electronics stores, where a pack of 10 may cost you $5 -- <S> I get mine from Home Depot in the area with the other velcro, which has 2 small rolls of 25 (50 total) for ~$5. <S> Tape will never make for much of a semi-permanent wall mounting solution, as it is almost always intended to be a "temporary" solution. <S> If screws are an option -- I much prefer the use of "Wall Dog" anchor screws (or other anchoring alternative), and eyelet-zip-ties or J-hooks, for securing cables to the wall. <S> If screws are not an option, you might consider the 3m command strips with zip-ties. <A> Also have run into this issue when I used to manage a couple labs. <S> Duct tape does not hold long to paint+plastic cabling. <S> We Velcro tie cables at work now and use Velcro stick pads for walls and carpet if needed. <S> Pretty cheap <S> and you can move things and put them back when needed. <A> In my experience, in every application longer than a few days, duct tape either leaves a sticky residue or a crumbly, dried-adhesive residue, both of which are quite difficult to remove. <S> Because I've seen this on many surfaces, I conclude that the cables themselves are not to blame.
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Gaffer tape doesn't leave the horrible residue of duct tape and may be strong enough to hold cables to a wall.
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Why is the upstairs a lot hotter in a 2 story duplex? I've lived in my current duplex for about 5 years now and every summer, my upstairs portion of the duplex gets noticeably hotter than downstairs. I couldn't give an exact measurement but 10 degrees Fahrenheit hotter would not surprise me. Over the years, I've added several things to the house to deal with this issue. It's made the heat manageable but by no means is it solved. I had to replace the AC (it was 20 yrs old), but even that didn't fix the cooling issue. I've added ceiling fans in all three bedrooms. I've added an attic fan as well to get the hot air out of the attic. What I'm really doing is just guessing what the problem is. I've looked into companies doing energy audits and insulation, but I'm not sure if this is the most effective thing I can do. How do I go about solving the hot air in my second floor during the summertime? What is the most effective approach to solving this problem? Is this something I can solve or would it be best to hire a contractor? <Q> Since hot rises, upper stories will tend to be warmer unless the design of your air conditioning system properly compensates for it. <S> An energy audit, as mentioned in the comments by @mikes will tell you if you have any reasons for heat gain that may be correctable. <S> Assuming you have a single thermostat that controls a unit that supplies both levels, here are some other factors to consider: <S> Make sure you have a clean filter. <S> A dirty filter will lower the overall efficiency of the unit. <S> Make sure that supply and return ducts are open on the upper floor; it's possible that supply ducts were closed during heating season due to excess heat in that area; return ducts may be blocked by furniture. <S> Check for dampers in the ductwork that leads to the upstairs. <S> It's possible that flow to the upper level was restricted to balance the system for heating system. <S> If you change a damper, note the position beforehand, you may wan to return to that setting for heating season (manually operated dampers usually have a small lever on the outside of the duct -- parallel to the airflow is "open", perpendicular is "closed") Running the system fan full-time (rather than just when the compressor is running) may help to even out the distribution of cool air. <S> If you have rooms downstairs that are too cool, you might close or partially close a small number of supply ducts to improve air flow to the upstairs. <S> Note that you should not close many ducts without consulting with a knowledgeable HVAC person, as you could restrict airflow too much, making the unit run less efficiently. <S> If your stairway has a door, leaving it open may help to allow air to circulate more freely between levels (especially if you don't have adequate return ductwork to the upper floor) <S> Last, consider having a qualified HVAC specialist evaluate your system to ensure the ductwork is adequate. <A> Not sure if this would work in your case <S> but I have seen it work really well in a small single level house designed to capture the sun that I stayed a few weeks in over a summer. <S> Have you tried putting an inlet vent with damper low down in a cool part of the house and a similar vent high up on the 2nd level? <S> The idea is that in summer if you open up these vents it'll allow the warm air to pass out and as it does it'll draw in the cooler air on the shady side of the house. <S> No guarantees <S> but you could test this theory out by opening a high window upstairs to let out the hot air and opening a window in the downstairs shady room and ensure that there are no doors closed in between. <S> The inlet air is critical or else it won't work. <A> A lot of good suggestions were given, but in my case it ultimately was two things: <S> Poor insulation - <S> the energy audit found the insulation was about 8 to 10 inches too low for our area. <S> Given the age of the house, it wasn't surprising that this needed to be rectified. <S> Soffit vents - or lack thereof. <S> I had no soffit vents to ventilate the attic properly. <S> Baffles were added to prevent the insulation from covering them up. <S> I felt like the soffit vents were a key to our success as well. <S> I thought we had soffit vents, but on closer inspection there were none. <S> From the attic, I could see some light, but from the outside, no vents were present. <S> Once these two issues were fixed, the upstairs became noticeably balanced and the temperature differential is negligible. <S> I'd say on a bad day <S> , it's 2 to 4 degrees warmer.
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We have a ceiling fan in the stairway that helps circulate the air as well, but without the insulation it's just not effective.
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How do I attach skirting boards to a plaster wall? I have ten feet or so of new skirting board to put up by my front door where we have just had the walls plastered [1]. Back when I was a kid I did a carpentry course so I know how to cut and mitre the corners together on the board one thing I'm not sure on though is fixing the board to the wall?? Is it just hammer and nail and hope you don't crack the plaster whilst putting it up? Or are other methods used now? Like mastic or some form of adhesive? Basically I don't want to mess up my nicely new plastered walls by whacking nails in there [1. I have just had my front door moved forward several feet so it is no longer a recessed porch but flush with the front of the house where we have had to have the exposed brickwork plastered] <Q> Typically a contractor will use a brad nailer such as this: Brads (A thin wire nail, glued together like staples) generally are long, and driven at a high speed and won't split the molding. <S> The advantage of brad nailing is that in the future, the molding can be removed without damage to the molding or the wall behind. <S> Note that you will still need to caulk the edges and cover the heads. <S> Aside: If you need to remove the molding later, pry it off with a thin prybar and remove the brads with pliers, pulling through the molding via the bad side. <S> Don't try to pull them out from the good side. <S> It's difficult, and will damage the face of the molding. <A> Nails are still used by some, but I believe many people use an adhesive such as No More Nails® . <A> Usually these are just nailed, punched and filled. <S> And no you won't mess up the plaster. <A> Run a strip of masking tape on the wall where the molding will cover it up, but where your nails will hit it. <S> It holds the plaster together while the nail hits it and can easily be ripped off (gently) after I'm done hitting it. <S> In your application, you can just leave it hidden behind the boards! <S> Use masking tape because as, for example, duct or painters tape dry they grab onto the wall harder. <S> I have pulled large chunks of plaster out by trying to remove old duct tape. <S> I have successfully pulled fresh duct tape off of plaster walls, but I don't recommend trying.
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I hammer nails into old plaster all the time by putting a piece of masking tape on the wall and hammering into it.
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What will happen if I try to apply paint/stain to damp wood? I'm 1000 miles away from home working on a deck for a family member who recently suffered a stroke. He's recovering, but for the time being he's very unsteady on his feet. The deck in question had a lot of mold, and was very slick when wet. I've already pressure washed and cleaned the surface, so that the mold is gone and it's no longer slick. That was the main goal -- in his present state, the deck was outright dangerous; now it's much safer. However, the deck wood now has no protection against rain and moisture... I just stripped it all away :) If I don't also do something to protect the wood, it'll be slick again in no time at all, not to mention start to rot. My problem is that I'm only here for another couple of days, and the weather is not cooperating with finishing the project. It's dry enough to get out and work without getting rained on, but not enough for wood to dry out. After the last scattered rain, there is no chance it will dry in time for me to do anything before I need to begin the journey home. I have some Behr Deck Over , which I reckon is either something in between a paint and a stain or just a thick paint. The hope is that it will hold up better and protect against moisture like a stain, but cover the surface more like a paint -- and not show the few remaining bits of old paint, as I was time-constrained in the removal, as well. But still, the wood is kind of damp. At this point, given my time constraints, I'm considering applying it over the damp wood. My questions are, what will happen if I try to apply this to damp wood? What are my alternatives? Is there anything I can do to improve the chances of a good application? I'm really looking to see if someone will talk me out of this before I do something dumb. <Q> If there are common walkway areas on the deck you could put down strips of grip tape along this route. <S> This is tape that has a sandpaper texture to it and is meant for slippery decks and stairs. <S> Maybe not ideal, but a solution until you can properly treat it. <A> Sherwin-Williams claims their deck stain can be applied on wet boards, but I wouldn't do that. <S> My rule of thumb is that I need three consecutive dry weather days after pressure washing to allow for the application of any stain. <A> I've talked to Behr about this stain using a pressure sprayer for application. <S> The Behrs is too thick for my sprayer, but they said I could use 6 oz of water per gallon to thin it. <S> I'd think spraying a damp deck would only help the wood absorb it deeper and better. <S> My opinion only, but I've a small piece of deck <S> I'm going to experiment on.
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You won't have luck applying paint/stain to a soaking wet deck.
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Why does my dryer get too hot? I've just moved houses and set up our dryer in the new house. It seems to get much hotter than it used to: hot to touch on the top surface, and my wife said it smelled like charcoal. The two things I can think of that are different are the plug and the vent hose. The old house had a 3-prong outlet and the new one has a 4-prong one, so we changed out the power plug. The dryer runs, but is it possible we did something wrong that would cause overheating? The vent hose is clear of lint and so is the vent to the outside of the house, but the hose is in this shape: + +-+ + It seems like air would still flow OK, though. The hose is made of foil and is about 1 foot long. The vent through the wall is maybe another foot. What could be wrong? <Q> The vent duct being clear is a good sign but it's possible <S> it's still causing restriction <S> and that's contributing to the heat <S> / smell. <S> You should be able to look up the maximum duct length for your dryer (you'll probably need the exact model number, not just the product line). <S> Barring more stringent requirements from your manufacturer, you should shoot for a maximum 25 foot vent, minus 5 feet for every 90˚ elbow (2006 IRC). <S> So for your double bend, the total length of the ducting should be less than 15 feet. <S> (If the duct is less than 4" across or is made of that flexible foil material that will add additional restriction. <S> But if you have a foil duct you should really consider replacing to reduce the risk of fire.) <A> Two options: 1) <S> There is an obstruction in the connection to the wall.2) <S> The second is pretty common; the duct can accumulate a lot of lint over a period of years. <A> Troubleshooting: <S> Verify the requirements of your dryer (sounds like a 220v dryer, but because this site covers the globe, you need to confirm this if you are not in North America) <S> Go to the breaker panel and look for the switch labeled dryer. <S> If you aren't sure what you are looking at, take a picture and post another question here. <S> there is something preventing the exhaust fan from opening freely on the outside of the house <S> Troubleshooting: <S> Place a damp cloth inside the dryer and turn it on to a low setting (since it has been over heating), go outside and look at the end of the vent. <S> Is it open? <S> If not this could be the problem. <S> Inspect the vent opening for any resistance. <S> there is a problem with the dryers' exhaust fan Troubleshooting: <S> Disconnect the vent hose, place a damp cloth inside the dryer and turn it on. <S> You should feel a strong steady stream of air being blown out of the dryer. <S> If you do not, the problem is with the exhaust fan. <S> the thermostat needs to be replaced <S> Troubleshooting: <S> unfortunately this is not a DIY fix. <S> You will need to call a technician to ultimately test and replace the thermostat. <A> Just had similar issues, 4 year old dryer started burning clothes out of the blue. <S> Checked vent, replaced vent hose, replaced dryer with brand new one, then replaced vent. <S> Still burning clothes. <S> Problem finally solved. <S> Think circuit breaker fused together inside and messed with the power output.
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Since the obvious has been addressed, there are a few other possibilities: verify that you have the correct voltage going to the dryer. There is an obstruction in the in-wall duct. Last effort I replaced the circuit breaker in the fuse box.
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How many computer chargers can I put on 1 electrical outlet? I am trying to create a computer charging station. I have many laptops and Android Tablets that I would like to charge at once. Assuming I wire it correctly, how many adapters can I put on 1 plug? Laptops are 40W charger cords. Tablets are 10W charging blocks. <Q> 36 laptops, or 144 tablets, or 18 laptops and 72 tablets, or Any combination of laptop and tablet that is less than or equal to 1440 watts. <S> Since a 15 ampere 120 volt circuit can supply a maximum of 1800 watts, but a circuit should only be loaded at 80%. <S> 15 amperes * 120 volts = <S> 1800 watts <S> 1800 watts * 0.80 <S> = 1440 watts <S> This example assumes that this is a dedicated circuit, with no other loads on the circuit. <A> It depends on which country you're in, and its electrical circuits. <S> Basically, a certain number of sockets will be connected to one circuit in your electricity box (the fuse and switch box, where the mains comes into your house and is connected up to the different sockets / lights / cookers etc. <S> through fuses). <S> Some people above have given you the ratings for 120V US sockets. <S> In the UK, it's 240V and up to about 3KW, so you can roughly scale these accordingly. <S> For example, if you hook all this up and it runs at the maximum load, but then your tumble dryer switches on, on the same circuit, you'll be in trouble. <A> My charger says it draws 1.7 Amps. <S> If I plug in all of the devices at once, and they all are in desperate need of a charge, the chargers will be running at full capacity. <S> Now, if the circuit is a common 15 Amp circuit, and nothing else is plugged in along the line from the breaker box to the computers, then 15/1.7 = 8 chargers. <S> IF you are in a modern building, and IF it is wired correctly, you will burn out a fuse or "pop" a breaker switch before you start an electrical fire. <S> I am in a North American school, and we have 95 chargers plugged into one outlet (chargers are plugged into power bars in the backs of the carts that are plugged into a heavy duty power bar that is then plugged into the wall). <S> Students take computers and bring them back all day long, so all 95 have probably never been plugged in all at once in an almost dead battery condition. <S> We do not have any problems with breaker switches "popping". <A> If there are no other loads on the circuit, you can pull 15 amps @ <S> 120VAC = 1800 watts per circuit. <S> Let's say 1500 watts to have some headroom. <S> You can easily figure out how many laptops or tablets you could charge at once. <A> It does not depend up on your load, it depends on your installation computer charging station wire size. <S> 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.5 core wire. <S> If you want a 6 amp load connect supply <S> then you use 0.5 core wire. <S> 1 core is used for 8-10 amp current.
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If you can plug in all of your devices without tripping the fuse or breaker switch, then you are good to go. BUT, bear in mind that the voltages are different and need conversion (see Ohms Law) and, don't forget to count anything on the same circuit that's already using power.
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How to wire a relay for an evaporative cooler to a thermostat? I have an evaporative cooler with 120VAC control that I want to switch on and off using a relay that is activated when the cool call comes from my thermostat. I plan on just using 1 relay to activate the whole cooler control (rather than multiple relays to control the different aspects of the cooler), so this is a simple on/off when cooling call comes from the thermostat. All of the wiring for the thermostat goes to the air handler and then heat, fan, etc. kick on from there. I have a C wire running to the thermostat. My thought was that I just put the relay in line with the Y wire (run Y from thermostat to relay, then out from relay to the air handler). This puts 24VAC across the relay (which is what the relay is rated for), but does not throw the switch. <Q> When the temperature switch in the thermostat closes (calling for cool), 24 volts will be applied to the relay coil. <S> This should pull the contact in the relay to the normally open (NO) position, allowing electricity to flow to the evaporative cooler (or whatever 120V device needs to be powered). <A> It actually sounds like you don't have it wired correctly. <S> You should have a wire from the C terminal connected to one side of the relay, and the Y terminal to the other. <A> I would look for the green wire (fan) at the air handler. <S> You might as well use this control voltage since you would want the evap cooler active when the fan is on. <S> Measure the voltage at the fan relay to ensure it's 24 VAC (remember this value). <S> Run wires from the green wire to your relay and also connect the common. <S> Does your relay activate when the fan turns on? <S> If the 24 VAC transformer can't handle the extra load, it may not turn on the fan. <S> What is the voltage at the fan relay now? <S> Hope this helps. <S> Thinking about this again, use the cool control since you do not want the evap cooler on during heating mode. <S> Or stay with the fan signal and place a normally closed relay in series wired to the heat signal. <S> That way you would have evap cooling any time the fan is on (which you want for cooling) and the evap cooler is off during heating operation. <A> Late answer, but I did this on my cooler. <S> Since my thermostat requires batteries, it doesn't use the C connection. <S> Run one lead of 24ac to the thermo (R) then take (Y) from the thermo to one input of relay coil. <S> Take other lead of 24ac and connect to the other input of relay coil. <S> The black wire goes the the 24vac transformer. <S> The grey wire going down goes to the relay inside cooler. <S> The grey wire going up/left goes to the theromstat, hooked to R and Y. <S> It's setup like this because my cooler is in a window. <S> In winter I just disconnect the wires, shove inside the window and close it. <S> Since the polarity doesn't matter, you hook it back up in Y configuration, always works. <S> Yes, that's Cat5E cable <S> , I'm using a pair for each run. <S> Relay is in inside the cooler, outside. <S> Thermostat is upstairs in the hallway. <S> 24VAC transformer is inside house, plugged into outlet. <S> One problem I have is the current draw on this huge cooler welds the contacts. <S> I would suggest a 24ac contacter, or a 40 amp relay.
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To verify, use your multimeter to test that you measure 24V AC across the relay coil when the thermostat calls for cooling. You'll want to connect the Y and C wires to the coil of the relay, so you end up with something like this. Alternately, you could replace the fan relay with a 2-pole version to give you the extra contacts for the evap cooler while only using a single relay.
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How do I remove multiple layers of paint from wooden entrance ledge? Here's a picture: If I recall correctly I have already tried a chemical stripper years ago and it didn't work. What would be the easiest way to remove the layers of paint all the way down to bare wood? An angle grinder? Sheet sander? Random orbital sander? Rotary tool like dremel? I have a cheapo rotary tool but I doubt it can do the job. I can buy either an angle grinder, a sheet sander or a random orbital sander....or any other one tool that can do the job. Do I need to sand the wood after the paint has been removed? Can this be done with the same tool I will use to remove the paint? (for example, by changing disks/bit/sandpaper). <Q> I would remove the metal strip, if possible, and use the scraper to remove most of the finish. <S> The edges on the scraper can be rotated as they get dull. <S> Then you can follow up with either stripper (there are new citrus based that are pretty effective if you let them sit), or an orbital sander. <S> If it is very resistant, you could use a multitool with a scraper blade or even the grinding plate if it is very hard. <S> This is an example, but there are many simpler and cheaper versions. <S> Caution with the multitool because once you cut through the paint, the wood may gouge or tear. <A> If you have a respirator and you're not dealing with lead, you could use a heat gun to melt the paint slightly and then scrape it off with a 3" putty knife. <S> I've done entire rooms full of ornate trim with this technique in the past. <S> Just be careful and obviously have an extinguisher handy and make sure it isn't lead before you use this technique, but for small areas like a threshold or any little bit of trim, you'll be amazed at how well this technique works! <A> If the paint is already starting to flake off, a 1" stiff putty knife may do the job. <S> Step up to a wood chisel and hammer if it's not coming off with that. <S> You mentioned a sander and angle grinder in your question as well. <S> A random orbit sander may work well at a low grit, such as 60 grit. <S> An angle grinder might gouge the wood too much, and you would need a wire brush bit for that as well.
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One of the best tools to begin the process of removing old, thick paint is a simple hand scraper
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How can I repair kitchen counters that are disintegrating? We have a pretty standard 90s style laminate kitchen counter top. There are cabinets and a dishwasher underneath, and the counter overhangs them by about a half inch. The bottom of the overhang is not covered by laminate and has exposed stuff that looks like particle board. Some of this is right over the dishwasher vent, and the steam is getting soaked up and the counter is starting to disintegrate. It also soaks up random drips off the counter top edge. We tried scraping off loose material and then covering the exposed area with white duct tape (see photo), but it didn't stick very well. Any advice on how we could fix this? <Q> If this is the only area that's being damaged then you could try screwing some stainless steel sheeting beneath it to act as a heat and steam shield from the dishwasher. <S> You'll need to make sure that the very edge of the steel is not exposed so make sure it doesn't protrude out. <S> And you may need to put some epoxy or similar right to the edge to stop the steam penetrating the wood at that spot. <S> Then sand it all round to make it nice and smooth. <S> It might work, short of replacing the benchtop with something more sturdy. <A> <A> The suggestions were appreciated, but we tried something different. <S> First we smoothed it out as best as we could with razor blades and sandpaper (it still wasn't very smooth), then I put on 8 or more coats of Rustoleum protective enamel oil based paint. <S> I'll see how it holds up. <S> As you can see, it looks pretty ugly from underneath, but you can't see it from above, and I'm hoping it will keep water out. <S> UPDATE <S> It's been six months, and is holding up well so far.
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I'd re-scrape, then smear a layer of white/clear caulk of the tub/tile/sink variety, working it into the 'wood' as much as possible.
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How do I stop my garage door from opening on its own? My garage door has opened twice in the last 2 weeks during the night. Is someone driving by and opening it "accidentally"? How do I keep this from happening? <Q> If you have an older style garage door remote, before they used rolling codes, you could very easily have some people driving by activating it accidentally. <S> I had a similar problem, so I ended up unplugging the remote control portion of it, so the wall mount switch still works, and the whole unit is going to be replaced soon anyways (electric eye sensor, etc). <A> I have three Genie garage door openers. <S> Two years after installation one started opening and closing on its own. <S> I took the batteries out of the transmitters, shut off the switch on the door button, and reprogrammed the open/close limits. <S> Nothing worked. <S> When checking the door button/wiring for a short, I found that one wire from the wall button connected to the back of the opener had worked loose and was just lying against the contact. <S> I slid the wire back in and made sure it would not pull back out. <S> End of problem! <A> I had a similar problem KennethR - it took a couple weeks to figure out what happened - the problem was: I was programming a new key pad to open my door. <S> Apparently when i had the the opener in LEARN mode <S> my neighbor came home and opened his garage door with his car opener-and his opener became programmed to open my garage door. <S> Therefore when ever he came home and pushed his opener to open his garage-mine also opened. <S> Since he closed it via the open/close pad when he went in his house his door would close and mine wouldn't because his inside button wasn't programmed into mine - only the one in his car. <S> Maybe when kennethR was programming one of his openers someone at the neighbors used the keypad and that got programmed to open his. <S> And check that no neighbors are opening their doors when your programming you openers. <A> Are the openings related to any particular environmental conditions? <S> I have an occasional false open when it gets very cold. <S> I suspect that the safety mechanisms are triggering it (It also exhibits some other mis-triggers of the safeties), but I haven't proven that yet. <A> Had this happen four times hours after I had left the house. <S> After changing the control pad it happened again. <S> Bought a WeMo to kill the power when I leave. <A> If you have a home warranty, see if it covers it. <S> Check the owners manual, check for obstructions, the eyebeams, (dirt, cobwebs, etc)loose connections, such as wiring, eyebeams or a stuck switch. <S> Also home settling can misalign the beams. <S> It may simply need for a readjustment or just unplug the cord, wait (according to the manual) to reset, plug back in, try again. <A> My garage has a switch (just a light switch) that turns off power to the garage. <S> My home inspector said it is useful when going on vacation to prevent anyone from opening the door. <S> I'm not familiar with what features newer openers have, but having a switch to turn off the power would definitely help. <A> I recently had the same problem,our door would be open at odd times. <S> I was working on the problem when suddenly the door opens. <S> I walk outside a the neighbors kids had used a key pad to open their garage coming home from school. <S> I asked the neighbor to try the key pad and sure enough their key pad would open and close my door. <S> Their remotes in their car did not open my door nor did my remote open their door. <S> Only using the key pad would open my door. <S> I reset my door opener codes by holding the learn button in until the light went out. <S> I reprogrammed my remotes, problem solved. <S> Hope this helps.
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The remedy is, as KennethR did, clear all devices from your garage door by holding the learn button for 30 seconds -and reprogram all of your openers to your garage door.
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Is carpet installation easier before or after installation of doors? I was wondering if carpet installation is easier if doors are not installed and how substantial the difference it makes to install doors after carpet. I would imagine it would be easier but by how much? <Q> I'll assume you're installing a door and jamb, if you aren't installing a jamb <S> I'd hold off on the door until the carpet is installed so it's not in the way <S> If you're installing the jamb I would do it before the carpet so the jamb can rest on the ground. <S> If it has a threshold you'll have to install it before the carpet. <S> I'd remove the door from the jamb and set it aside until the carpet is finished. <A> If you were installing vinyl or tile, you would do the same, but hold off on any quarter round trim until you're done. <S> The important consideration, particularly for pre-hung doors, is how high to install it above the subfloor. <S> With vinyl, you'd only leave a 1/8 - 1/4" gap. <S> But with carpeting, we use a 1/2" spacer under the door jamb and floor (the same is done for any other wall trim and the floor). <S> Just check the thickness of any flooring <S> you're installing and adjust so you can run it right under the jamb and trim. <S> The carpet installers will run right up to and under the trim for a seamless look. <S> If you are installing a pre-hung door and only one side is carpeting, then it's easiest to cut off a bit of the bottom of the door before you install it. <S> After the fact, you can also use an undercut saws to adjust the trim height. <A> If the hinges have loose pins as is typical, it doesn't really matter because the doors can be removed easily. <S> In this case other issues are likely more important for deciding the order. <A> Adding to pri0ritize excellent answer, it's much easier to shave off the bottom of a wooden door than to mow the carpet. :)
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The standard procedure is to install carpet after the doors and trim are installed.
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What is an oven anti-tip device and how do you install one? I'm trying to sell a home, and we're in the inspection / repair phase. The buyers asked for me to install an anti-tip device for the oven in the kitchen, and I'm not even sure what that is. Can someone explain it to me and tell me how to install it? <Q> It's a bracket, with a U-shaped slot. <S> Depending on the model, it is screwed either to the floor, or to both the floor and the wall behind the oven. <S> You slide the oven's rear foot underneath the bracket, and it holds the oven in place in case you step on the door while it's open, preventing your pot of boiling water from sliding off the top onto you. <S> Installation is usually just a matter of: Sliding the oven out; Cleaning all the gunk that's collected there over the years; Measuring where the foot will be when the oven is back in its spot; Screwing the bracket into the floor, and the back wall if it's an L-shaped bracket. <S> Sliding the oven back in, making sure the foot goes under the bracket. <A> An anti-tip bracket is usually installed on the floor and against the wall (towards the back of the stove) for one of the rear legs to slide into. <S> Replacement parts are available at all the big box stores <S> but I’ll bet yours, if not installed, is still in the plastic bag tied to the back of the stove. <S> Shut off the circuit breaker feeding the stove, carefully slide the stove away from the wall, ensure a bracket isn’t installed (the last time the stove was slid against the wall it may have simply missed the bracket) and if not installed, search around for the original plastic bag. <S> Hopefully, the instructions with an installation template is still in the bag. <S> (While the stove is away from the wall, you can fetch lost utensils and kids toys!) <A> Its a child safety issue. <S> Apparently children have been seriously injured by opening the oven door and standing on it causing it to trip.
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Its purpose is to prevent the stove from tipping when a heavy load is placed on the door or slide-out racks upsetting the center of gravity.
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Is it safe to wire regular receptacles to the end of an extension cord? Is it safe to cut off the single-plug end of an extension cord and replace it with several regular receptacles and a metal box? Should the box itself be grounded? <Q> This would be considered to be temporary construction power equipment. <S> According to OSHA rules (1910.305, 1926.405) there are specific requirements and the assembly is not for permanent use (running your hand saw for various jobs on the property vs running your freezer long term). <S> Link to OSHA as they're not going away anytime soon: Acceptable Job-Made Extension Cords <S> The major focus is on using boxes meant for this type of use (boxes with no coined knockouts or that use screw-in knockout plugs), making sure all grounds are intact (including the metal box), neutral and hots properly routed so plugging the assembly in or items into the assembly will not reverse polarity and proper strain relief is supplied (no romex squishers) for the cord. <S> NOTE: <S> While OSHA rules don't apply to DIY, the spirit of the rules is to increase your safety so Joe Electron doesn't escape through you! <A> It certainly is not code-compliant, but temporary wiring like an extension cord isn't covered by electrical codes I believe. <S> Yes, I would ground the box. <S> (Depending on which outlet you install, it may be grounded automatically with the receptacle mounting screw, but I would do it with a pigtail anyway. <S> But why wouldn't you just use a power strip instead? <S> Definitely easier and safer, probably similar in price to buying the parts individually. <A> Is it safe? <S> Maybe. <S> When you purchase an extension cord, that cord has been designed and tested to operate properly under certain circumstances. <S> Once you modify the cord in any way, you've voided any listing or labeling on the cord (UL listing, etc.). <S> If there is ever a fire, this could be a factor (but that's a legal issue, and outside the scope of the site). <S> If you know what you're doing, use properly sized cord, use the right box, and connect everything properly. <S> However, if you don't know what you're doing, this can go horribly wrong. <S> It's not uncommon for homeowners and DIYers to be cheap. <S> Because of this, they are likely to purchase lower end products. <S> In the case of an extension cord, that means a smaller gauge wire (typically 16 AWG). <S> In its unaltered state, this is almost never a problem. <S> Say you plug in your 12 Amp circular saw. <S> Well the 16 AWG wire is rated at 18 amperes, and it's designed <S> so only a single device can be connected at a time, so there is no problem. <S> Now lets say you've modified the cord, and attached a single duplex receptacle. <S> you connect two devices, and draw a total of 20 amperes. <S> Everything seems fine, since the receptacle will handle 20 amps, and the breaker back at the panel is also rated at 20 amps. <S> The cord however, is only rated at 18 amperes. <S> Now you start to smell something funny, and soon magic smoke begins to emit from the cord. <S> Maybe you notice in time, maybe you don't. <S> You'll also want to consider the environment you'll be using the cord in. <S> If you're planning to use the cord only in the shop, then a metal box might be fine. <S> If you think you might ever use the cord outside, you might want to consider a weatherproof box and cover. <S> According to the manufacturer, modifying the cord in any way means the product is damaged and should be discarded. <S> Modify extension cords at your own risk
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I suppose it's safe as long as you wire it properly, including a secure attachment between the box and the cord to prevent the cord from pulling out. Then yes, this can be done safely.
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How can I cool down a hot garage? My North Carolina garage is extremely hot, does not have a window and a room over top. In 5 years I have lost three freezers, there is no other place to put the freezer. I have tried to find a fan w ith a damper and a thermostat that could be mounted thru the wall but no luck. What can I do? <Q> What about an attic vent fan such as this one? <S> It has a thermostatic control. <S> Separate shutters are also available such as these . <S> They open based on the air pressure generated by the fan. <S> You would need to create "in" vents, preferably placed low on several walls to allow full air flow. <S> These could be either fixed or shuttered, depending on whether you are concerned about infiltration of air in colder weather. <A> That will keep some of the heat out in the first place. <A> I've have a similar problem with my garage. <S> Although no freezer inside. <S> I haven't fixed it yet, but I think the solution is to install a boat cabin vent like these: http://www.go2marine.com/product/232325F/marinco-4-day-night-plus-vent-solar-light-w-stainless-steel-cover-n20704s.html <S> I'd install one on the side of the garage up high to exhaust the hot air. <S> And probably provide a low down vent on the cool side of the garage to allow cool air to flow in. <S> As for shutting it off. <S> You may need to make your own damper. <S> A sheet of plywood or metal with some guides that can slide in front of the fan and vent. <S> There are also some fancy attic based ventilators, that may be a better option.
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In addition to ventilation, you can also insulate your garage, especially the roof and east-south-west walls.
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Why would my well water cut off for 30 minutes before working again? I live in a area where I have to use well water and I have a well house that runs to my home. The water work with great pressure for a while, and then suddenly stops and takes 30 minutes to come back on. I Have a well-x-Trol tank, a new pressure switch and a new pressure gauge. The water heater is rather new and I have copper and some plastic lines. What do I need to do to fix my problem? Is it caused by the water pressure? Is the pressure too low, or too high? Is my pump bad? <Q> Have you listened (or measured) to see if the pressure switch is telling the pump to turn on? <S> If the pressure switch is on and you're not getting water out of the pump <S> If you've got low pressure and the switch isn't on there is a problem with the switch (or tank, but that's a low possibility). <S> Do a little bit of investigation and if you can provide more information we can probably provide a more informed answer. <A> Have you checked the pre-load of the pressure tank? <S> Improper pre-load can cause the pressure switches to operate improperly, causing the pump to either run too long or not often enough. <S> Operating too long can cause a thermal cutout as mentioned by Wayfaring Stranger. <S> You should check with your tank documentation for the proper method of setting pre-load. <S> A typical method involves shutting down power to the pump and letting the tank drain down until no water is left. <S> Adjust the pre-load air pressure via the tank's schrader valve to a pressure equal to the setting of the low pressure switch. <S> Restore power to the pump and check for satisfactory operation. <A> If your well recovery rate is too low (how quickly water refills the well bore from the surrounding rock), the pump may turn off to prevent damage from overheating (and even if it kept running, it wouldn't pull up much water). <S> As wells age, their recovery rate goes down, and the recovery rate is affected by variation in water table levels.
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you've got issues in the well (low water, bad pump) and you could be damaging your pump.
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Realistically, could you build a useful built in closet in a space that is 77.5in x 9.4in? I have a part of a wall in a room that is deeper than the rest of that wall and measures exactly 77.5 inches across and 9.4 inches deep (196.9 cm x 23.9 cm). I would like to make that space a built in closet so that that "dead space" is made use of and the entire wall is perfectly flat rather than having a part that sticks in. Realistically, is it feasible to build a built in closet in such a space? If so, how should I build it to ensure it has a similar proportion of shelves, drawers, and hangers as a regular closet? For example, I know I would not be able to hang clothing perpendicular to the wall as is customary with most closets, but couldn't I have a rod protruding from the back to hang clothing parallel to the wall? This would be a closet for 2 people in our guest room. Is this feasible or not recommended? <Q> That is a very shallow space. <S> I think you'd need at least a couple of inches for your doors / front wall, so you're looking at less than 8" deep for the final closet. <S> You might be better off just installing built-in shelving and/or hooks on that part of the wall to serve as storage space. <S> You could make the shelves 8" deep and then put a sheer curtain over it, if you want to avoid looking at it. <A> Not really. <S> To frame it out you would need to use 2x4 or 2x3. <S> Add in the sheetrock thickness on top and now it is only 5 to 6 inches deep at most. <S> It sounds like a good area to put shelves or a built in with shelving. <S> I know if I saw a closet in a house like that I would wonder why it is there. <S> I think @Henry's idea is the best. <S> A curtain and hooks on the wall are temporary and could easily be removed. <A> gain another couple inches of depth by re-framing in place the back wall of the recess. <S> or move the back wall farther back <S> (which is quiet reasonable since the main issues (flooring and ceiling) would not be an issue at all because the 'transitions' would be within the closet. <S> or purchase a wide, freestanding armoire that fits within the recess, or have one custom built or
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Another idea is to reclaim some of the room and built a full size closet using the extra depth that is already there. That's not a lot of depth.
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What is the maximum number of load bearing studs in a row that can be notched? I'm trying to install a new utility sink and washer hookup in my garage and am trying to plan how I'm going to run the copper supply lines. The most direct path I can think of is to notch probably 5 or so studs of an exterior wall to reach the existing drain I'm going to use for the sink.I know that I can't notch a load bearing 2x4 more than 7/8" but I can't find any guidelines as to how many studs in a row I can safely notch. Is this a question for an engineer? I don't want to go notch crazy but I think 5 or so in a row should be ok? I'm also planning on putting stud shoes on the studs i do notch. <Q> There is no specific limit on the number of sequential studs, as the 7/8" limit is intended to reduce the potential stresses, however, given the choice, I would rather drill than notch: 2308.9.11 Bored holes. <S> A hole not greater in diameter than 40 percent of the stud width is permitted to be bored in any wood stud. <S> [...] <S> and In no case shall the edge of the bored hole be nearer than 5/8 inch (15.9 mm) to the edge of the stud. <S> So 40% of 3.5 in gives you ~1 3/8" to use, often much more than you need for supply lines. <S> My concern though, is that you're thinking of notching for a waste line, and notching 7/8" to add a 1 1/2 or 2" drain line is... <S> I'll just say that I'm with <S> @JohnSmith <S> in that I wouldn't bother, <S> but then I don't know your specific situation. <A> From what I've read, I have not seen any number associated with the maximum number of bearing studs that can be notched. <S> WWPA put out Notching and Boring Guide <S> which covers some of the common code requirements for notching. <S> On a bearing wall, you cannot notch more than 25% of the width of the stud, which is as you said, 7/8" max on 2x4 construction. <S> Other areas have similar requirements. <S> Personally, if its just a hookup in the garage, I don't know that I would notch. <S> I would probably leave it exposed. <S> (mostly because my garage is pretty rough as it is.) <A> This varies by code, and with how big your notches are. <S> The safest answer is to limit yourself to 2 consecutive studs. <S> Other codes will say 3 for specific situations. <S> And if the wall isn't load bearing, or you keep the notches small enough, there isn't a limit. <S> Here's one from the Florida codes that gives specific limits for their location: <S> 2318.1.9 <S> Notching.2318.1.9.1 Studs that carry loads in excess of 75 percent of their capacity shall not be notched or <S> cut.2318.1.9.2 Studs that carry loads 75 percent or less of their capacity may be notched to one-third of the depth without limit of the number of consecutive studs. <S> Source
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I have seen limitation on boring a hole in the same section as the notch which is not allowed. This is a hard question to answer, mainly because there may be local building code that changes the answer depending on the region. The best option is to go through the joists in either the ceiling or floor so that no studs need to be drilled. References for the 2 stud limit include: NAHB and Dear home insepector .
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What are my options to repair a broken tab on a bus bar? My A/C went out this week. The problem was a broken tab on a bus bar with cut power to one phase of the 220v circuit. My HVAC guy was able to get me going again by swapping the A/C unit to the dryers breaker. I spoke with a local company on the phone, they were advising that they'd likely have to replace the panel. My HVAC recommended an electrician but he was booked for weeks and/or didn't want the job. What options should be on the table to repair this problem? Can just the bus bar be replaced? Replace enough breakers with tandem breakers (AKA cheaters) to free up the slots needed? Could I replace the disconnect for the A/C with a fused disconnect instead of replacing my main panel? Could I have a subpanel added? Something that will further complicate this issue is that my home has AL wiring. Code may require AFCI breakers to be installed if they have to replace the panel. The current panel is completely full. I need to find room for a double pole breaker. I have one good slot open and one broken open slot. I could free up two slots by adding a single cheater breaker. Put the cheater in the single good slot and free up two slots for a double pole. The objective answer I'm looking for here is one that will enumerate my options and suggest what may be a showstopper or strong advantage to each option. <Q> I got an answer from my electrician. <S> Here are the options in order of preference with pros and cons Replace the panel <S> - Pro: all new box and breakers; Con: Somewhat expensive Replace with "cheaters" to make <S> space - Pro: Cheaper; Con: Still expensive (labor) and the wires may not be long enough to reach where they need to reach. <S> Replace the 220v <S> A/C disconnect with a fusible disconnect - <S> Pro: <S> Cheap; Con: Not entirely to code, have to replace fuses, in my case the outside box would have to be replaced too. <S> I went with replacing the panel. <S> It cost $1600 and took about 6 hours. <S> Expensive but its the right solution and <S> I have a few free breakers to add some circuits if I ever need them. <S> The old box had a few other tabs that looked fishy, it was a good idea to let it go. <A> I try local high volume electrical contractors to see if they save the old panels that they demo out. <A> The bid to replace my panel was $2,400. <S> In my case there were two 5/32 bolts and two brackets (that slid in slots) that held the busbar in place. <S> Turn off you main breaker, and your solar roof collector if you have one. <S> Unbolt the busbar from the bottom of your main 200 amp breaker. <S> Remove all circuit breakers. <S> Unscrew two 5/32 bolts from side of busbar, push up on busbar to clear slots, and pull it out. <S> Every busbar is different. <S> This is how my 200 amp 20 slot Cutler-Hammer worked. <S> I bought a near new busbar. <S> It took me about 1.5 hours to complete job. <S> You will see how new busbar screws in when you buy it. <S> I did use electric tape to screw a 5/32 open end wrench on a paint stick to reach one of the 5/32 screws that was very near the hot lead from the street. <S> I did have to get into the hot street side of the box. <S> Be very careful here. <S> Use rubber gloves and one hand. <S> You do not want street juice shooting across your chest in case you slip.
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I just replaced my busbar for $75. Changing out bussing is always the easiest way to go, if you spend a couple of days finding someone who saves old gear. The busbar is now dead.
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How can I replace the star-shaped base of an office chair? I've got two office chairs, one whose base (the one that is star-shaped, holds all the wheels together and joins them with the bar/gas compressor) is broken, and another that is just fine. How can I take the other's base out without breaking it (it's plastic)? <Q> Ok, I did it. <S> Just dumped some WD-40 and let it soak for 1 minute, then I grabbed my good ol' hammer (I don't have a rubber mallet) and started gently but commitedly striking the edge of the post, with the chair turned upside down, while I grabbed any of the star's legs. <S> It slipped off <S> and then I just hammered its way in into the new post, good as new. <A> This may not apply to your situation, but when I flip my chair over, I have a clip which holds the rest of the chair to the base. <S> It is located in the cylinder at the center of the star which attached to the pneumatic stuff. <S> If I pull that off, it enables me to pull the chair off of the base. <S> I performed the same operation on my chair recently and it worked great. <S> I did notice that when spinning in the chair it started creaking a bit. <S> A little WD-40 over and around the clip took care of the problem. <S> I think I jimmied it off with a pair of needle nose pliers and a flat head. <S> I was super careful although it may not have mattered as it appeared to be a pretty sturdy metal. <A> I've had mixed results with using a rubber mallet and penetrating oil to separate friction locked cylinders. <S> Some of them came apart freely, others wouldn't budge. <S> If your broken base is plastic you destructively remove it by cutting ~90% through with a hacksaw on two sides and then using a hammer and chisel to split it apart. <S> You don't want to cut into the cylinder itself, so I'd recommend against any sort of rotary cutter.
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I've seen suggestions elsewhere to use a large pipe wrench to torque it free; but the one time I tried that I ended up only being able to tighten it enough to scratch the hell out of the surface but not break it loose.
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Is there ever a reason to fuse the neutral rather then the hot line in a small appliance? This question relates to 120V small appliance wiring in the USA. I repair small motorized appliances called microcentrifuges that are used in laboratories, and specialize in models made by a particular German manufacturer - Eppendorf. One particular model has a single 6A fuse and I always assumed that this fuse was in the "hot" line. However, I had one of these models fail and it tripped the circuit breaker without blowing the fuse. Looking for the fault, I found that one brush holder in the motor had come loose and contacted the motor frame which is connected to the protective ground. Tracing back I found that power coming in from the three wire power cord went to a brown, blue and green/yellow wire internally and that the brown and blue wires went to the main switch (DPST). The yellow/green wire went to the metal case as expected. The blue wire was switched to a black wire and the brown wire to a white wire running to the main circuit board. The black wire led to the fused leg in the circuit board. I read that brown is the color for the hot leg and blue for the neutral in European wiring. To me this means that the hot and neutral crossed at the switch. Of course, this crossing might have been done by someone, like me, who was unfamiliar with the European color code. But every unit of this model I have looked at (tens) is wired the same. I have exchanged the wires on a few units, so that brown is switched to black and blue to white, but am worried that I am missing something. There is actually a spot for a second fuse on the circuit board, but this is always jumped with a wire on the units I see. It is used for units wired for 240V in other countries - two 2.5A fuses instead of the single 6A - according to legend on circuit board. And the power coming in does go through a line conditioner, if this is the right term for the small metal box that the power cord plugs into and has the brown, blue and Yellow/green wires coming out of it, if this might make a difference. To further complicate matters, the model that preceded the one I am discussing here is wired as I would expect with only the hot leg fuse protected. <Q> If your wiring analysis is correct and the neutral is fused, this is most certainly atypical. <S> Fusing the neutral would not prevent this, which is exactly why the breaker tripped instead of the fuse blowing. <S> As for why it was done this way? <S> Beats me, unless it is an error. <S> Have you considered contacting the manufacturer? <S> It may simply be an oversight in the U.S. wired models. <A> Trust me when I tell you - if this item was manufactured in Germany ... there is a REALLY GOOD <S> REASON for the way it was done that way ... <S> (if you know any Germans, you will know what I mean <S> ... lol). <S> This does not relate exactly to your situation.... <S> The reason manufacturers used to fuse the Neutral wire is: some older electrical devices had one of those older twist in fuse holders where you could touch the end of the fuse (or stick your finger into the fuse holder) when taking the fuse out. <S> If they had the fuse on the hot side wire, you could get shocked. <S> Old guitar amps did it this way. <S> The disadvantage to fusing the neutral line is the appliance internal are wired to hot and can still have power into the appliance even if you have it shut off. <S> Also, if you have an short or power surge, the appliance can still get damaged since the fuse wont blow right away (as it would when the hot wire is fused). <S> If neutral is fused, it will trip the breaker but it takes longer to do so which can lead to a damaged appliance - especially with the sensitive electronics in newer appliances. <A> According to the Wikipedia entry about electrical wiring <S> some places can use a black wire as a neutral, and a white wire as a hot. <S> It's possible they are exporting to one of those countries as well. <S> So it quite likely that someone was confused with the color combinations used by a country other than their own. <S> About the only color you can be sure of is that green, and green/yellow is for the grounding conductor. <S> The main reason for having a fuse on a strictly motorized device in the US, is to prevent the windings of a stalled motor from burning out. <S> Instead we rely mostly on the breaker tripping for most faults. <S> In other countries they may require the device to protect itself including it's cord, while the breaker/fuse panel only really protects the house wiring. <S> In the US <S> if you fuse or switch only one wire it has to be the hot wire.
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The hot is fused to prevent a ground short from burning out the appliance and is the reason that a grounded neutral or reverse-polarized electrical plug can be dangerous.
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Can an ordinary power drill drill through steel? It's my dad's drill and it's a Bosch. I'm not sure about the model no. etc because the box is missing together with the manual. He's been using it to drill holes in wood to install doors and also walls to hang pictures. I'm not sure if it can drill through steel though provided that if I'm using a drill bit suitable for that purpose (I'm not sure if there's drill bit to drill steel also). The steel that I want to drill is not stainless steel. It's just a 2cm x 6cm rectangle hollow bar and the thickness of the steel is somewhat close to the thickness of a normal kitchen knife (the chef knife as people usually said. not those machete / butcher knife thickness). It's quite rusty too. So can it be done? <Q> Most drill bits sold are "high speed" drill bits intended for a variety of materials including metal (but not concrete, tile, glass or extended use in plaster or plasterboard). <S> If the bits are fairly sharp, you should be able to use them in the steel, assuming it is not a hardened alloy. <S> To improve your chances, a bit of oil or cutting fluid at the cutting point will help prevent overheating. <S> Slower is usually better. <S> The rust probably makes the steel weaker and easier to drill. <A> I would use a 4 or 5mm high speed steel bit. <S> It needs to be sharp, and sharpening it is a trick: you would need to be shown, as I can't easily describe the technique in words. <S> Drill on faster speed pushing fairly hard, with some sort of oil (CT-90), by piloting you remove the very centre, which in effect you are not drilling, you are just forcing the bit to push the steel to the cutting edge. <S> From there you can open the hole to the desired size. <S> For any size from about 9mm I would use the slower setting, and personally I would only drill up to a 14mm with a pistol drill. <S> Keep a tight grip! <S> For anything bigger use a pillar drill and keep the work clamps; the drilling speeds vary depending on size and material, you can look this up. <S> If you do come across stainless then half all drilling speeds, and keep the cutting constant as stainless will work harden. <S> Brass needs to treated the same, aluminium and coppers are softer and you can nearly double the steel speeds, use appropriate cutting compound for the type of metal. <A> When drilling metal the bit does not need lubrication ! <S> What it needs is cooling for the excessive heat , instead of oil use cutting fluid to cool and save your oil for lubrication B) <S> If it's too small a job to warrant buying cutting fluid, use water in a spray bottle to cool down your bit. <S> Cutting fluid is a water-oil emulsion itself. <S> Also, make sure you're starting with a pilot hole before swinging straight for the fences. <S> Even with a drill press , it's wise to always start with a pilot hole and expand it from there. <A> If you are using a drill bit suitable for steel, then yes, providing the drill itself has enough power, this will be fine. <S> Even a low power drill can do this successfully, you will just need to take it slow in order to avoid getting the bit stuck. <S> A higher power drill will manage without much of a problem. <A> As long as it is not hardened and tempered like a knife (which is somewhere between "the drill bit is not that much harder" to "it's harder than the drill") <S> - yes. <S> But even in that case, you would just need a different drill bit, not a different drill. <S> Something obvious to most here should still be said given that the question implies the asker may be really inexperienced with an electric drill: Many electric drill can be set to impact (eg for drilling concrete) and non-impact mode (eg for drilling wood). <S> Be sure to choose non impact mode for steel.
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Drilling steel is easy, once it is marked and punched.
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How do I adhere vinyl sheeting to carpet? We foster puppies on a regular basis and in order to protect the carpet I am looking to cover a section of their room with vinyl sheet flooring where their pen is located. I thought about vinyl because it is inexpensive and waterproof. I need to know how to adhere it to the carpet for an extended period of time (6 months) without damaging the carpet when it is removed. It needs to be fairly secure and I want to prevent the edges from curling up. Any ideas on how best to adhere the vinyl? I am also open to other floor covering solutions. <Q> I don't think there's a good answer to your question. <S> What you want to do is ... poorly thought out. <S> Get a small section of vinyl and unroll it so that the edges extend beyond the edge of the pen. <S> Let the pen hold it down. <A> How about an alternative? <S> Check with commercial supply companies like Cintas or U-Line. <S> They make door mats in some pretty large sizes that are rubber on the bottom and have a lip around the edge. <S> The inside is either carpet or raised rubber ridges or nubs. <S> Here's an example from U-Line : <A> What about making a temporary floor out of plywood that sits on the carpet. <S> It can be covered with vinyl. <S> I would make raised edges so that any spilt water, urine or other mess would be contained. <A> Buy some carpet wrap. <S> Put it on every sq inch of your room - $10. <S> - adhesive $5. <S> It will hold well enough.
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Anything more is not going to be good for the carpet. Lay vinyl down with a few dabs of construction adhesive (not around the carpet wrap seams)
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Is it enough to apply just one coat of Killz2 primer on drywall? I have heard conflicting instructions regarding primer on drywall, some saying one and some saying two coats. The bucket of Killz2 itself says reapply after 1 hr, implying two coats are needed (I am sure they want to sell more product). I have also heard varying customer feedback regarding Killz2. Is it enough to apply just one coat of Killz2 primer on drywall or should I go with two? I have already done some painting with just a single coat and it turned out fine. <Q> Well it isn't about how many coats it is about coverage. <S> It is very hard to say 1 vs 2 coats. <S> I paint heavy. <S> One of my coats my be 1.5-2 of another person's. <S> Your paint benefits from primer not the primer that is under the primer. <S> Now for wet applications (bathrooms mainly) I might put on 2 thick coats of something like killz to act as a greater barrier not to help the painting process. <S> Note - I have a paint crew that used to work for me. <S> Their paint jobs looks perfect. <S> They used two coats. <S> But their first primer coat was thin (half mine) <S> and there were definitely coverage issues. <S> They were efficient vs my heavy style of just get it over with. <S> They probably got their two coats on faster than my one <S> but they did have to wait for drying time in between... <S> and without the heavy hand theirs looked smoother. <A> Yes one coat should be plenty for new drywall <S> , you can get it tinted to be similar to your final paint color also to limit the number of paint coats you need after the primer potentially. <A> I apply 2 coats when I'm covering a strong color, or when covering serious stains on the wall. <S> The original Killz is oil based <S> and I've heard that it covers better, but I've had no issues with a single coat over drywall using the water-based Killz2. <S> However, when I use Killz2 on raw wood, I use 2 coats. <S> That is mostly because I sand in between coats to get a good clean finish.
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Bottom line, if you can still see the color or patches of color after the first coat, either coat again, or spot coat. If all that you see is your white Killz then that is enough for all dry walls.
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How do I build floating shelves in a nook with a mirror behind it? I have a bar nook area that I want to do something similar to the image below, but on the back of the shelves I want to put a large mirror. I was planning on ordering a custom cut mirror for the wall and then I want to install these floating shelves. How do I get shelves without brackets showing on the sides? I also assume I can't put brackets that drill into the back of the wall because there will be a mirror there and it will crack. <Q> You could mount support bars on the walls that touch the ends of the shelves. <S> The bars should be screwed into studs that form the framing of the inset walls. <S> Square tubing, either aluminum or steel would do well. <S> The shelves would need to be fairly thick. <S> They would have a slot (dado) cut into in the middle of the end edges, slightly wider that the thickness of the support bars. <S> The front edge of the shelf could have a strip of matching wood glued to its face, hiding the slot. <S> The remaining edge of the shelf, especially the top edge, should be substantial, preferably at least 1/2" <S> An alternative would be to use an angle iron instead of a bar. <S> This would allow a thinner slot. <S> A blind mounting system on the sides only would allow you to mirror the whole wall. <S> This assumes that the span of the shelf is not too long and there is not too much weight on it. <S> If the support bars (or angle irons) and shelves are solid, you probably could go up to 30" without too much problem <A> Measure each space between shelves carefully. <S> You might even do a template for each. <S> Take it to Lowes and have them cut mirror for you to the correct size. <S> Use mirror adhesive to glue each mirror onto the wall. <S> You may need to do one at a time and shimmy them up to hold until they dry. <A> They are very easy to install.
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Keyhole hangers are my favorite for flush shelf hanging.
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How can I trace the path of plumbing lines inside walls without cutting holes? I am looking to install a shutoff valve for an outdoor faucet, and to do that, I need to locate the pipe leading to that faucet. I tried to trace it by listening for the hissing sound when the water was running, but that doesn't seem too reliable. Any better ideas (other than cutting holes in my walls)? <Q> Metal detector? <S> Thermal imaging? <S> Even with non-metallic pipe sometimes you can remove the faucet and push a wire down the pipe. <S> Acoustic detection via electronic means is also a method used. <S> There are contractors the offer location services that have sophisticated equipment. <S> Their fees are proportionate to their equipment costs... high. <S> It's likely much cheaper to cut and patch holes. <A> On the popular shows (Holmes on Homes) I have seen them use thermal cameras while they are running cold or hot water. <S> You would have to rent one for an hour or schedule a "green" company to come out to borrow theirs. <A> If the pipes are plastic, I don't know. <S> Draining the pipe and making a flute sound inside it through the faucet is one untested idea. <S> If the pipes are steel or copper, have an assistant stand outside and moderately thunk the faucet on the side with a block of wood, heavy wooden spoon, or similar repeatedly. <S> I have never had much luck with a hammer, rock, or metal rod because it makes such highly pitched sounds they are hard to discriminate a distinct source direction—they seem to come from everywhere. <S> Also, small pieces of wood (like a pencil) don't work so well either for the same reason. <S> Go inside and press an ear firmly against the wall and carefully listen. <S> When you are close, it sounds like it is right there. <S> When you aren't close, it is distant and vague. <S> I found I can get within two inches when there is no insulation, and four to six inches when there is good insulation.
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Start right inside where the faucet is and try listening at various spots a few inches apart by sliding in vertical or horizontal lines—perpendicular to the direction the pipe is traveling. There are utility locators that pick up a signal conducted through metal by a transmitter. Tearing apart the wall will definitely work.
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How can we cover a carpet for the long term? Are there any plastic covers (or protectors or films) available that are more for long term (like about a year) as opposed to the short-term ones that last only 30-60 days. We're about to rent a place, and the landlord has "no stains on carpet" demand. Since most of us are always at home and there are people who would certainly take food/drinks to their rooms, we are left with no choice but to cover up the carpet. Yes, there are cleaning solutions available, but they are usually effective if you use them right away. Some of these people would completely forget about it for weeks. Please understand that it can not be too costly. We'll there for a year or two, and we can not justify spending $500 for this cause. Feel free to get creative. It does not have to be plastic, as long as food/spills don't reach the carpet. <Q> If your soon-to-be-landlord is already making unreasonable demands, I would reconsider your choice to rent with them. <S> I've often rejected apartments simply because the landlord has alluded to charging for repairs before I have even moved in. <S> As for a permanent wall-to-wall covering, I can't think of anything permanent that would would suffer the wear, be water tight, and especially fit a tight budget. <S> If you are set on this rental, I would consider putting your money toward regular professional carpet cleanings and before moving out, and the purchase of some spot-treatment carpet cleaners for when the inevitable spill does occur. <S> Finally, if you can't trust your roommates or their guests to share/respect your concerns for the carpet, you're going to be disappointed. <S> -My <S> 2 cents <A> If you really want to do this then I would call around to a few flooring places and ask about laminate rolls. <S> They will often have some left over from jobs and probably would sell for less than 25 cents a square foot - you could also look on craigslist for the same thing. <S> Maybe someone will give these to you - they have little scrap value. <S> This seems like a LOT of work though <S> and I probably gave you the least labor intensive option. <S> If you laid things down then people get careless. <S> They spill something. <S> It hits a seam. <S> Then you have a spilled substance sitting there for a long time. <S> Have you thought about the entire house drinking only white wine, light beer, water, and sprite? <A> We have pieced/taped together office chair mats into a path before to fit where the spills are most likely to happen.
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Personally, if those are the types of demands the landlord is making, I would go into your lease expecting a bill for every single thing that should be considered "wear and tear". Unless you're a group of college kids (to which, I could understand creating some fear so that people don't go party-crazy), a "no stains period" policy is unlikely to be legally binding, however, that is a question for a lawyer. Also you would have to worry about where the plastic or laminate meets the carpets. Minor carpet staining from traffic is considered to be "wear and tear" in most states, as well as scuffing of the walls and other things that result from simply living in a space.
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mold problem in basement I had some insulation put on half my basement wall. Since then I have been having a problem with mold.I know my basement walls leak. Could wet insulation cause mold? If so is it bad mold. Alls I know is I have white stuff growing everywhere in basement., and there are no visible leaks. <Q> White fuzz on the walls of the basement may be harmless mineral deposits called efflorescence from slow water movement, not mold. <A> Nothing but rigid foam or spray foam should be put directly on basement walls. <S> If you reading the Building Science documentation on basement environments you will see that if moisture is introduced on the walls there needs to be a proper gap for the water to drop and evaporate. <S> Without airflow the water isn't going anywhere and to make matters worse the area is slightly warmer than the surrounding are because it is insulated. <A> Moisture provides an environment where many molds thrive. <S> Insulation reduces air flow along the wall surface, reducing the the ability of moisture to be dissipated by evaporation. <S> Additionally, many molds thrive in moist, warm environments. <S> Evaporation creates a cooling effect. <S> When evaporation is restricted, the surface temperature is warmer, and the insulation helps keep it that way. <S> It does create an environment that is conducive to mold growth.
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Wet insulation does not directly cause mold, unless it was contaminated with spores.
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Do I need a face-mask when painting? I am planing to spray-paint some cabinets. Do I need a full face-mask or not? <Q> Lungs weren't made to filter out latex aerosols, organic solvents, urethane, epoxy fumes. <S> Any time you're spray painting, you should at least have a dust filter. <S> Coughing up paint may be something you put up with in an unregulated factory, but given that masks that do the job aren't really that expensive anymore, your lung capacity will be a lot better when you're 60 and need the reserve you burnt off in youthful immortality. <S> Some of the paints out there can confer permanent, life-threatening allergy. <S> We had a whole paint shop workforce here that took pride in skirting safety. <S> Until a good portion found that painting is no longer a career option. <S> The shop owner got religion after that. <A> Local painters union requires vapor masks for all spray painting, they suggest dust masks while rolling, and no requirement when brushing. <S> Source <S> I had 10 painters working for me on an apartment rehab last summer. <S> Having said that I wear a dust mask while spraying and nothing all other times. <A> You absolutely need something. <S> A dust mask will do, but I always recommend a dual-filter respirator. <S> They aren't expensive and provide much more protection. <S> You don't want those chemicals in your lungs. <S> As usual, no shortcutting is the best rule. <A> Start by checking the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the product you're using, for recommendations on personal protective equipment. <S> In most cases, you'll want at least: <S> A well ventilated work space. <S> An appropriate respirator (air supplied where applicable). <S> Protective clothing (Hooded Tyvek <S> ® suits are common). <S> Eye protection. <S> Gloves <S> The type of personal protection equipment used really depends on the paint and spray equipment you're using, and the environment which you're using it in. <S> At the very least, you'll want a respirator and eye protection.
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A dust mask is not an appropriate face covering for spray painting.
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How do I connect a light to a switch when the light receives power first? I have a power source running from the light how do I connect it to a switch? <Q> In general, a light switch breaks the hot wire lead when it is off and connects the hot wire lead when it is on. <S> The neutral lead and the ground lead are never broken (that is, they are connected, either continuously, or through a permanent attchment, such as a wire nut). <S> The white neutral from the source and the white neutral to the light are connected directly. <S> The bare or green ground lines are also connected (but are not show). <S> Power source directly to fixture - When you want to add a switch to a light that is "hot" at the fixture, you can run a new 3 wire cable from the fixture to a box containing the new switch. <S> The black caries the "hot" to the switch <S> , the red carries the hot back to the fixture. <S> Both will be "hot" when the switch is on. <S> Most basic switches do not use or need the neutral line, but one is included for more complex switches that need to be powered. <S> The ground line (green or bare) should be attached to the ground screw on the switch (but is not shown). <S> At the fixture, you connect the black "hot" coming in from the source to the new black wire running from the switch, and the red switch wire is connected to the black "hot input of the fixture. <S> These descriptions of wire color are US conventions. <S> In other countries, the color pattern may vary, but the principles are the same. <S> THIS ANSWER HAS BEEN UPDATED: <S> Thanks to mfarver for the correction about neutrals to switches. <A> If I understand the question, you are asking how to wire a light fixture when the power is coming from the light box. <S> I am assuming that you have no power coming from the switch. <S> The White (Nuetral) wire coming from the ceiling box power will go the the white wire of the light fixture (or silver screw if it has no white wire) <S> The Black wire coming from the ceiling box power will tie to the white wire going down to the switch. <S> Mark this white wire to indicate that it is now a power wire. <S> The black wire coming from the switch will go the the black wire of the light fixture (or gold screw if it has no black wire) <A> If you asking this question, I'd assume you likely are uncomfortable with wiring. <S> (If not, just follow the other two answers on how to place the switch upstream on the hot line.) <S> As an alternative to having to do any wiring, you can add a switch entirely wireless by purchasing a zigbee bulb and zigbee switch. <S> As of 2018 zwave bulbs cost between $8-15 and the switches $25-40. <S> So for about $40 you get the advantage of not having to cut any holes in your dry wall for the switch box, or to feed your fish tape up to the light box, along with not having to buy a switch box, switch, ROMEX, and wire nuts ( <S> ~$8-$16 depending on the length of Romex). <S> Plus, if you get a home automation hub in the future, you'll be able to control your lights via <S> it's smartphone app, or home assistant API.
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Power source through switch box - When power comes through a box containing a light switch and continues on to the light, the switch is attached on one terminal to the black (or sometimes red) line from the power source and on the other terminal to the black (or red) line going on to the light.
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How do I get rid of mold from the bottom of a bath mat (where the suction cups are)? We have a bathmat that we use to line the tub when we bathe our daughter. After the bath, we remove the mat and suction it to the shower wall (which is some sort of frosted glass) I've noticed black mold growing on the suction cups. I tried to use vinegar...sprayed it and tried to wipe off the mold. I tried a little bleach too. Nothing seems to remove it. Is there something else I should try? <Q> My experience is that the black growth actually gets right into the bath mat material and cannot be easily removed. <S> well so no bath scum and other things are left on it. <S> Then hang it up over a towel bar, suction cut side up, so that it can fully dry after each use. <A> If you let is sit in a bleach solution the mold will eventually fall off (with maybe a thorough scrubbing - sos pad). <S> You might want to throw it away. <S> It got the mold because you suctioned it to the wall leaving water trapped inside the cups - a breeding ground in a humid bathroom. <A> Run it through the washing machine on hot with some towels, detergent, and bleach. <S> This is how I clean my shower curtain liner. <A> I went a different route. <S> I bought a peel and stick hotel bathtub mat. <S> It was guaranteed not to mold or turn slimy. <S> And it hasnt in four years. <S> I love it. <S> Hotels cant afford a slip and fall or to have mold growing so they really do have the best mat. <S> It has a strong adhesive that keeps it glued to the bottom. <S> I found mine at Safetybathmat.com. <S> I will never go back to a suction cup bathmat. <S> Really it is great.
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When you suction cup the wet mat to the wall you are leaving it there as a perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew growth to occur. After use always rinse it off I suggest that you replace the mat and then use an alternate procedure when stowing the mat after use.
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When can spackle be used instead of mud? My wife was reading this article, wherein drywall damage due to the removal of construction adhesive was fixed with spackle. HOW TO REMOVE A DATED VANITY BACKSPLASH I thought this kind of repair required joint compound ("mud") and not spackle. When can spackle, which is easier to work with and dries much faster, be used instead of mud, which dries slower, but much harder? <Q> You can use either spackle or joint compound. <S> I personally detest the modern "light weight" versions of spackle and will not use them. <S> The dry time has never been a big problem for me as most projects are big enough that there are plenty of other tasks to attend to whilst the joint compound dries. <S> Note: <S> Most of the preferred "old style" heavy spackle is also a pain to use in comparison to joint compound because it drys really hard and is a total pain to sand down. <S> Joint compound is really easy to sand thus giving it one more feather in its cap. <A> I think spackle should be discontinued as a product because it dosen't offer a lot of benefits and the hazard that people often fail to read about is that it cannot be used for skim coating (that is, filling a surface area) because paint will not stick to it. <S> At the molecular level there isn't sufficient surface area for the paint to touch to adhere reliably. <S> I can tell you that I learned this by personal experience. <A> The really important thing to know about spackle is that it can't be used for skim coating (that is any area with an exposed face) because the molecules are too far apart to offer sufficient surface area for adhesion (I asked the manufacturer). <S> There may be exceptions but <S> if you read the label even those that are "self priming" exclude use for skim coating. <S> The other note I'd add is that for deep repairs (anything over 1/8") I woulduse dry mix drywall compound because it's a chemical drying product so you don't need to worry about a wet core under a dry surface. <S> The only thing youneed to remember is that it's much harder sanding than a topcoat compound soeither be neat or two step the finish with topcoat.
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I use joint compound for most repair applications around drywall.
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How do I clean a stainless steel gas cooktop without harming the surface? How does one remove the burnt-on grease spots on a stainless steel gas cooktop without harming the stainless? I have used all types of gentle detergents. <Q> Try white vinegar with 5% or 10% acidity first. <S> Weiman makes some great cleaners for stainless steel you can try too. <S> When I've burned food into my stainless steel pots the only thing that would get it out was to manually rub them with varying roughness's of stainless steel wool. <S> This of course is going to alter the surface.. <A> I forgot the brand but the grandma brought over about 6 bottles of a degreaser that would normal be used for washing dishes. <S> A few squirts on my stainless steel oven and the hard grease spots start splitting up. <S> Then I just hit it with a sponge. <S> These degreasers are not green and are somewhat toxic but work and have had no side effects with stainless steel - I know you cannot use oven cleaner. <A> If you need a gentle abrasive, baking soda shouldn't scratch most finishes. <S> (You might want to try an inconspicuous area first to check that.) <S> Other than that, and commercial nonscratch cleansers, and perhaps giving the burned area a bath of boiling water to try to dissolve any caramelized sugar or the like which might be helping to glue it in place, the only things I've found that will work without risk to the finish are persistence and "elbow grease" (ie, keep trying and hope you can wear it away a bit at a time.)
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I would hit it with a normal dish cleaner.
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What is a shear wall and what is it for? I have a wall in the middle of my house which I have been told is a shear wall. The image below is a diagram I put together real quick to show what it looks like. The grey lines on the right are perpendicular exterior walls. The orange-ish section on the right is actually exterior since the foundation jogs a bit there. It doesn't seem like the 1x6 that crosses in the middle does much. I intend to put French Doors in this wall but need to know what I'm getting myself into. The wall runs parallel to all the joists and trusses in the house and sits directly under one truss. The far left side of the wall actually has a vent running up through it directly through the truss above. When they built the house, they cut a 12" gap in the truss, which makes me not so sure if the wall is load bearing or not. Oh, and I live in Seattle. <Q> The brace is providing lateral support. <S> If you build a wall with the top and bottom plate plus some studs, it's easy to shift the wall out of square and turn it into a parallelogram. <S> Under load, a house would take an 8' shift to one side and flatten to the ground. <S> With the brace, the wall remains square and holds perpendicular walls plumb. <S> However, in older homes or in higher risk areas, particularly where there are hurricanes or earthquakes, extra support may be added. <S> In my own home, this was done with a metal T that was installed into a grove that was cut in the studs, but older homes will more likely notch the studs and install a piece of lumber. <S> Before removing this, I'd want to consult with a structural engineer. <S> They may require that you relocate the brace to one or both sides of the doorway, and that will require opening up your walls even more. <S> Removing this structure will likely show little signs of danger until there is extreme weather or a seismic event, so if you were to remove it without proper adjustments to the rest of your structure, don't assume that everything will be ok. <S> Note that with a truss resting directly on top of this wall, you should assume there is some load passing through, especially if there's any structure above that truss in your house. <S> The fact that it's been cut for ducting may mean that the wall is the only thing keeping that truss from collapsing. <S> When you create a doorway, it's best to install some temporary bracing and make the header a load bearing structure that appropriate for the span. <A> Shear walls resist lateral loads like from an earthquake or hurricane. <S> They are important parts of the building structure, even if they do not support any of the weight of the building in the traditional "load-bearing" sense (although they might). <S> You will be setting yourself up for serious problems if you dismantle the structure of your house (not to mention difficulty selling it, doing other work that require permits, getting insurance coverage). <S> I would say that adding double-doors to that wall would constitute a serious change in the structure. <S> There are definitely ways to do it, but taking a sawzall to the wall is not the right one . <S> Earthquake and hurricane design can be counter-intuitive, and actually a lot of the country is susceptible to earthquakes even though most people don't realize it. <S> You don't need to live on the San Andreas Fault. <S> Often in wood structures the shear walls are made of specially spec'd and nailed plywood, so if that really is a shear wall I would expect it to be plywood. <S> I'm not sure that single 1x6 provides much lateral support—it may just be leftover from construction or something. <S> Who told you it was a shear wall, and what made them think that? <A> I have worked with engineers on shear walls in florida. <S> I have seen many examples of the amount of shear protection. <S> I have never seen a diagonal 1x6 used in an interior wall. <S> For example just some cross bracing would provide much better protection. <S> A layer of plywood under drywall would be better. <S> My point is that unless we are missing something in the picture (I guess the 1x6 could span higher and lower - but it is still a 1x6) <S> then it shouldn't be that hard to compensate for losing it - <S> I am in no way suggesting that you don't need it <S> but I am suggesting that they didn't engineer that much <S> shear strength for that wall. <S> I would ask an engineer - "what do I need to do to provide the same shear strength as I currently have?" <S> I think the bigger question for the engineer is what support you need to carry your structural load across the french doors. <S> But before you talk to an engineer I would talk to your city building department. <S> You need to figure out how they would approach this, what they require, and if they have any specific code for shear walls. <S> Florida is specific for hurricane rated housing - I am not sure what code Seattle has or if it differs from hurricane rating. <S> My first thought is Florida would have higher restriction because they lose roofs and hurricanes <S> have a lot of lateral force... <S> this is another question though. <A> I'm a carpenter contractor in the chicago land area they added the 1x6 in the wall because the small piece of plywood on the exterior is not wide enough to really hold the wall plum over time take out the sway and add a k brace at both side of the new opening <S> k brace are not that strong but adding two will do the job. <S> Mark
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In typical construction and low risk areas, the exterior wood sheathing and interior drywall provides this lateral support and avoids the need for any lateral bracing. If that really is a shear wall, you must not modify it without the approval of an engineer or other qualified professional .
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Why do I have three phase electricity? I actually have 3 phase in my home. Notes you said it was not possible. Not sure why, but it is here. Why would anyone ever want it? <Q> Here's an example: <S> My home was provided with a three-phase supply when it was built in 1990 because the builder intended to install an electrical storage-heating system. <S> I bought the house before the heating system was installed and opted for an oil-fired system instead. <S> So, in my area, it's an option you can request from the power company if you have a specific need for it. <S> Some industrial electric motors require a three phase supply. <S> In my area a single phase is 230 V <S> so domestic households almost always use only a single phase. <S> I expect the phases are separated at the local substation where high voltage local distribution is reduced to 230 V. <A> Three phase power distribution is used in cases, such as industrial setups, where large motors or other loads are attached to the AC power mains. <S> The advantage of 3-phase over single or two phase is that more net power can be delivered to the load over a 3-phase system for a given conductor size. <S> If you happen to actually have 3-phase power delivered to your site then it is possible that a previous owner or site occupant had loads of the type that demanded the more efficient power transmission. <S> Three phase power installations use a different type of main load center distribution panel than a single or dual phase system. <S> Thus it is not a good idea to even think of mixing the two. <A> 3-phase residential power is actually quite popular for highrise condominiums, but not so popular for traditional single family homes. <S> A person living in a highrise condo will more than likely have a 3-phase panel supplying their home. <S> In most units there is just one 3-phase main panel that supplies 208V for the double pole appliances and 120V for the single pole lights and small electronics/appliances. <S> Occasionally you will find a sub-panel that is fed off the main 3-phase panel for the residential portion of the home, while the main panel supplies vital resources to the home such as elevators, garage doors, fresh air exhaust fans, AC units, and whatnots. <S> I have only worked in one house that was initially 3-phase. <S> The homeowner eventually went back to a 600A single phase because a whole house 3 phase generator was not an option. <S> The utility co. uses what is known as a WYE 208/120Y for residential 3-phase. <S> The neutral will carry the non-linear loads of all 3 phases while delivering adequate power to the many units at a cost efficient and effective way. <A> Some houses have a 3 phase supply which feeds adjoining houses with just a conduit with old VIR carrying the power from one of the fuses.
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So far as I know, three-phase supply is commonly used for equipment that requires substantially more power than most domestic household appliances.
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Why did my refrigerator/freezer stop cooling? The other day my combined fridge/freezer stopped cooling. I tried to turn the temperature dials inside the fridge but it didn't work. I read that this could be due to the evaporator coils being frosted over, so I disconnected it for a whole day, with the doors open. When I reconnect it, the sides of the fridge get really warm (i guess thats where the condensers are?), and the freezer starts cooling (but the fridge stays warm). After two hours or so the freezer stops cooling, the sides are no longer warm, but the compressor gets quite warm and stays like that. I have checked and the fans do work both in the fridge and the freezer. I here are some pictures of the fridge and the compressor: Click for full size More photos can be found here: http://imgur.com/a/gi7aH I would appreciate it a lot if someone could help me understand what is going wrong, and how i could fix it. PS: Sorry for the bad quality images. Also I should mention that above the compressor there was a tray that i removed to be able to take the pictures. I think its for collecting condensed water. <Q> It sounds like there can only be 2 causes for the failure. <S> The compressor is running inefficiently (normally caused by blow by or a bad winding on the compressor) <S> -The only way to know of this is to hook a set of gauges up to the system to see the High and Low side pressures, and to check the resistance of the Run, Start, and Common windings of the compressor. <S> There is a leak in the system (Normally very hard to find in fridges)The only way to know this is to hook up a set of gauges to the system. <S> In order to find a leak in a fridge i would use an electronic leak tester as it can get into very confined spaces. <S> The other way to find a leak would be to pressurize the system with nitrogen, and try to hear for leaks. <S> If there is a very small leak you will have to go around with soap and water, or a type of refrigerant leak detector. <S> The unit is more likely to leak on the high side of the system due to higher pressures and tempratures. <S> This would be from the discharge of the compressor to the metering device, or the inlet of the evaporator. <S> Other common places or leaks would be, the evaporator coil, or the condensing coil, along with any joints there may be in the system. <S> If the system just suffered a leak, and there is no damage to the compressor. <S> If the leak is easily identified and repaired, the system can be recharged and repaired for a few hundred dollars. <S> However this is normally not the case with leaks. <S> If there is a small leak it can take hours to find and repair. <S> Also if the leak is in the condenser or the evaporator, a replacement and the cost to replace it would normally cost about the price as a new fridge. <S> The same goes for a compressor issue. <S> If the compressor is running inefficiently, and must be replaces, the cost of the replacement compressor, the labor to replace it, and the refrigerant to recharge the system would also normally cost more then the price of a new fridge. <S> If you are going to have it repaired, have it done by an Appliance Repair Technician or a Refrigeration Technician. <A> To start with, you have to understand how it works to get the why. <S> The refrigerant gas is compressed, passes through the outside coils (condenser) releasing heat and turning into a liquid. <S> The compressed liquid goes through an expansion valve, reducing the pressure and extracting heat from inside (evaporator), turning back into a gas, where the process repeats. <S> Your refrigerator is working (heat being released outside, heat being extracted/cooling slightly inside), but because of the low refrigerant, you have lower pressure which means a lower boiling point. <S> My opinion is that the compressor does more work trying to compress the gas, it is generating more heat outside, but less heat is extracted inside because the liquid changes back to a gas more quickly. <S> I would recommend a worthwhile service person who should be able to add both refrigerant and a leak sealant -- knowing that it may not fix the problem depending on the leak and that you may need a refrigerator. <S> Reasoning: <S> Research and having had it happen, and will be fixing my new kegerator soon (since we just went ahead and replaced the fridge). <A> When you left the refrigerator unplugged, did you get a significant amount of water melting off the coils? <S> If so, your defrost timer or defrost heating element may be bad. <S> I have replaced the defrost heating element in my refrigerator; it's a hassle due to the tight space, but do-able for somebody with moderate electrical knowledge. <S> If you didn't get much water, you are likely looking at a refrigerant issue, causing the evaporator coils to not get cold enough. <A> The start run relay on the compressor. <S> It is a round disk that is shorted for a short time, long enough to apply voltage to the start windings for start up then goes to high resistance. <S> The module can be opened up and the disk replaced from a module you picked up on garbage day from a fridge thrown out.
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Sounds to me like your fridge has built in coils, which is the cause of the heat on the outside sides (condensing), and that your refrigerant is low, likely due to a leak.
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What should I do about a pin hole leak in pvc water pipe? I have tried JB Weld products, epoxy, water epoxy, and water tape. I do not want to replace the pipe--just fix it for now. The pipe is a cold water supply. <Q> Your best bet to fix the leak is to turn off the water, drain the line, and then cut out the bad section and replace with some new glued in fittings and pipe pieces. <A> This question comes up in the first page on Google and there's no mention of a Sharkbite, so I thought I would necro-answer. <S> Sharkbites are compression fittings available at Home Depot. <S> They function similar to a repair clamp, but they seem like they seal better to me. <S> They're very easy to install, as well. <S> http://did-it-myself.com/fix-a-pinhole-leak-with-sharkbite/ <A> Pipe Repair Clamp http://www.lowes.com/pd_24521-143-PP24001_0__ <S> There are quite a few different styles; however, almost all of them are designed for metal pipes . <S> Personally, with PVC I still suggest replace a section of the pipe, but if you can't this will get by in a pinch. <S> Make sure to prepare the surface. <S> Turn the water supply off, sand the area (get rid of your epoxies and rough up the surface). <S> For a good seal, I'd add some 100% silicone "caulking". <S> then put the clamp on. <S> The clamps come with a rubber gasket and if you are using a universal size one then be extra careful not to crack the pipe, it takes a bit but is surprisingly easy when using tools. <S> Allow a couple of hours for the silicone to dry (most dry times listed are expecting surface air to help dry/cure it <S> so if you can manage it leave it overnight) <A> The pipe location was in a tight spot making cutting it out a much bigger pain. <S> Two other products that are less messy (than fiberglass) and might do the job -- Fiber Fix and Perma-Wrap. <A> Watts quick connect. <S> Simply cut out section where the pinhole is and stab the pipe into the quick connect. <S> Easy as 123. <S> I've even done this with copper and it works great. <S> No more soldering or worrying if the water is out of the pipe. <S> You will not regret it! <A> I had a puncture happen in an area that cutting the pipe and adding a coupling was going to be a super mission. <S> What I ended up doing was cutting a coupling in half (so you get 2 u shaped pieces), gluing it on, and using a hose clamp to tighten it. <S> This was for a sprinkler pipe so not nearly as much constant pressure as a house pipe <S> but it's been holding for weeks now. <A> By using a Ice Maker self tapping shut off you can place the the nail of the shut off in the pinhole and screw clamp down
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Bondo fiberglass resin, while a little messy, worked to patch a leaking PVC sump pump pipe joint.
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Why do my clothes smell when I dry them outside on line but they are fine when tumble dried? When I tumble dry my clothes they smell fine.When I line (outside) dry them they smell quite bad, a musty stale smell.In both instances they have been taken out of washing machine quite quickly after the cycle has finished and smell good coming out of the machine? Any tips on how to keep them smelling good when outside line drying? <Q> Smells generally come from bacteria which thrive in a moist environment. <S> A dryer heats up clothing to the point where most of these bacteria are killed off. <S> then it is a breeding ground. <S> Try running an empty load at its highest temperature, or better yet running an empty load with a washing machine cleaner to get it gunk-free. <S> That should get your washing smelling fresh when using a line. <A> It may be air pollution like the smell of ozone that has been described as a fishy smell or even like bleach by others. <A> Could it be your water? <S> I lived in SW Missouri and NEVER had this problem. <S> Clothes always smelled fresh line dried. <S> Water had a high calcium content. <S> Moved to Pensacola, FL and every time I line dry clothes they smell like dead fish. <S> I have changed NOTHING. <S> They do not sit, or take longer to dry and the ONLY thing I can up with is the water. <S> My machine is clean. <S> Hmmm...
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It's possible that the bacteria is coming from your washing machine, if you usually do cool or cold cycles and haven't cleaned it out in awhile
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Why do my LED lights stay on, even when the switch is off? I have two LED lamps in my corridor, and when I switch them off, they keep emitting light (not very strong, but it's annoying at night). What can it be? How can I fix it? <Q> Some light switches run a small amount of current through the bulbs even when off, usually to power small devices at the switch like a timer, motion sensor, or night light. <S> Do your switches have either of those features, or something else like that? <S> The way those devices work is instead of having a hot/neutral pair powering the switch, they just sit inline with the hot wire and draw a very small amount of power. <S> Old fashioned incandescent bulbs won't light up if there's only a small amount of electricity running through them, so you would never notice this current, but LEDs are much more efficient and apparently are getting enough power to run. <S> If that is the cause of the problem, there are a few solutions: <S> Swap out the light switches for regular ones. <S> You'll lose whatever additional functionality they have. <S> Upgrade your switches to ones that have both a neutral and a hot wire, instead of just the hot wire. <S> This may be relatively straightforward or extremely difficult, depending on whether the neutral for the light goes through the same box as the switch. <S> (Note that even if you do have a neutral at the box it may be a little tricky to wire it up, since you might have to cut it and then add a pigtail or two.) <S> Put back your old-fashioned incandescents. <S> Install one incandescent and one LED <A> If we're talking a high voltage circuit, w high intensity LEDs: <S> Many high intensity <S> white LED's use a phosphor that is in fact phosphorescent, like glow in the dark paint. <S> You just have to wait for it to dim down. <S> Switching to a different brand of bulb, with a different phosphor may help, but it's hard to "try before you buy". <S> If we're talking a low voltage circuit, 5-12v:A capacitor in line with an LED can power it for quite some time. <S> You can limit this effect by by using a power supply with a smaller filter capacitor. <A>
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If the light is controlled by 3-way switches wired with a 3 wire conductor, the electromagnetic field will induce enough voltage on the other wire to dimly light an LED bulb.
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Can I use demo'ed bricks to make an outdoor firepit? I have four brick posts that are about four feet high and square (1.5 bricks per side all the way up). They are going. A tree hit two of them and I was probably going to take them out anyway. So I have a bunch of bricks with some of the bricks the mortar is attached. Throw them away or use for fire pit - is it worth the effort? Also will one layer of brick be too wobbly for a rather large fire pit - 4 feet by 2.4 feet by 2-3 feet high? <Q> For your question of using a single layer of brick (I assume you mean <S> vertical layer for the walls) -- bad idea without lining it with steel or firebrick, and a quick way for people/things to get burned. <S> You can also use two layers spaced with an air gap or filled with loose or crushed rock (and you can use the trash pieces as well <S> so you don't need as much rock). <S> You will want to mortar the bricks (mortar), not stack them, and you'd need a solid base. <S> I'd recommend using this information from The Family Handyman as a fairly good guide. <S> Otherwise, build a proper firepit and use the bricks for a walkway or as a flat area for standing/seating around the firepit. <S> I'd suggest knocking off the larger chunks of old mortar with a rock/brick chisel. <A> I have used recycled bricks to build a small separating wall between me and the neighbors, no problem. <S> I would definitely reuse them. <A> Are the bricks solid? <S> If so I would definitely use them for a fire pit. <S> At 2 - 3 feet high <S> I brick wide will be OK, but I certainly wouldn't go much higher. <S> Good luck with it!
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My vote is always for re-use (except the trash pieces, which can still be used as a filler). A fire pit with used bricks should be fine.
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Is it OK to apply a coat of one brand of paint over a coat of another brand? I was wondering if it makes much different to use two different brands of paint (of the same color and sheen) when painting two coats. For example, if I have some Behr in semi-gloss left and it is enough for one coat and then buy more of Glidden, also semi-gloss, because it is cheaper, to do the second coat. <Q> On the face of it, that's not a bad idea. <S> I would only be worried about a few things, though: One, is about the actual sheen that each brand presents. <S> You really want to try both out on a scrap or hidden wall and make sure the brand you want to have show up on top is carefully selected. <S> Two, is about how easy will these varying coats be, for patch repairs as life happens. <S> Three, you generally don't double-coat your cut-ins. <S> For example corners, around trimwork, etc., are mostly just a single coat (and you would roll as close to edges as possible), and doing two separate brands' coats on the entire wall surface will take a lot of (possibly thankless) work. <A> It absolutely matters. <S> The paints aren't identical. <S> If it's a home you're looking to do the right thing with, use the better paint for both coats. <S> All companies have their high and low-quality lines, so don't just assume that all paints under one brand are better than another brand. <S> There are a lot of good ones, including Glidden, Sherwin-Williams, and Benjamin Moore, but even they have lower-end lines of product. <S> As for the comment regarding not cutting the walls in for the second coat, that's a terrible idea. <S> ALWAYS cut the walls in for the second coat. <S> The brushed-on paint goes on thinner than the rolled on paint, so those edges usually need that second coat. <S> Also, if your paint is anything but flat, those unpainted, dry edges will likely be visible after the walls dry. <S> Don't do shortcuts. <A> I would make sure that second coat covers everything.
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Yea it matters because when you use two different brands often there can be the same color variance between the same color.
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Why were only some of my tools damaged when connected to a 240V receptacle? I live in the US and recently bought a home. There are several electrical outlets in my garage. I have recently had two tools that have burned up and gone to an early grave. It turns out that the previous owner put in a 220 volt outlet but used a 20 amp 110 receptacle. I figured this out after my shop vac motor burned-up and died. Also, my belt sander emitted sparks, flames, and died. A quick check with a multimeter determined that some goof ball put 220 into a standard outlet designed for 110v. Of course, I will be wiring this outlet correctly. For now, it is covered with tape. So, here is my question. Some tools, like my air compressor and table saw were not damaged by this outlet. I used the outlet for these tools and they don't seem like they were harmed. Why did some tools die and others survive ? ? Is it a difference between brushed and brushless motors ? ? <Q> Many devices are rated for either 110 or 220. <S> There should be a tag on the device which says this. <S> In some appliances its done intentionally so that one model can be sold and safely used in countries which use either voltage. <S> In other cases its simply dumb luck that the component parts can tolerate either voltage. <S> I'm not sure if this fully answers your question. <S> "The device is rated for it" doesn't really cover what aspects of the device make this possible. <A> It's not going to be about brushed vs. brushless motors but the quality and grade of the parts used in the tools. <S> Heavy duty equipment like a compressor or table saw are likely to use heavier wiring and components which can take the higher voltage, where the lighter weight tools are overheating with the voltage they weren't designed for. <A> You'll probably get a better answer on physics or electronics, but it's mostly a matter of voltage and damage not being that simple, especially when there are magnetic fields involved. <S> More voltage will drive more current through the same circuit. <S> More current generates more heat. <S> What happens from there depends quite a lot on exactly what the circuit is and the physics of any moving parts. <S> In the case of your drill and belt sander I would guess that what burned out was most likely the speed control. <S> Speed controllers use semi-conductors to flip the power on and off with the cycles of the AC current. <S> Semi-conductors <S> (Silicon Controlled Rectifiers in this case) <S> really don't like being subjected to voltages higher than they're rated for or excessive heat and tend to melt, explode, catch fire, or do other, violent things in response. <S> Your table saw and air compressor don't have speed controllers though. <S> So if you subject them to a higher voltage, that drives more current, but nothing immediately faults and burns up. <S> The more current results in more heat, but also creates stronger magnetic fields inside the motor. <S> The stronger magnetic fields spin the motor faster. <S> The motor spinning faster makes its fan push more cooling air. <S> It's not actually that uncommon for motors to run cooler at higher voltages with the same load because the field effects are more efficient and the higher speed cools them off better. <S> Couple <S> that with most of the larger tools' electric motors being designed to run at either 110 or 220 because that makes them significantly more useful for an insignificantly higher cost <S> and it's not terribly surprising that your heavy-duty tools could handle the higher voltage. <S> In fact, you might want to consult their owner's manual and/or the spec sheet of the motors they contain and see about just switching them over to 220v permanently. <S> If they were designed to to that they'll run cooler and last longer plus they'll use the electricity more efficiently so it will cost you less to operate them, and you already have 220v available, you just need to put a proper socket on it. <A> Because over voltage tolerance is a complex matter and the susceptibility of any individual device is highly dependent on the design of that particular device. <S> Into a resistive load twice the voltage means four times the power. <S> Depending on where that heat goes that may or may not be enough to make the device go up in smoke <S> but there are many other effects that can either mitigate or worsen the effect. <S> On the worsening side we have. <S> Magnetic saturation. <S> If too much energy is stored in an iron-cored coil the core will saturate and the effective inductance will fall through the floor. <S> If the device was relying on the inductance of the coil to limit current this can result in a massive increase in current. <S> Electrical breakdown. <S> High voltages can rip electrons off atoms which can then start conducting leading to high currents where there were not supposed to be high currents. <S> Normal wire insulation will not break down with a mere 2x overvoltage, but electronic components like diodes, transistors and capacitors may well break down at this level. <S> On the mitigating side we have. <S> Some things self-regulate. <S> A motor (if it has not suffered from magnetic saturation) will draw less current as it's speed increases. <S> A device with a thermostat will heat up quicker but assuming nothing breaks down the thermostat will mean the final temperature ends up approximately the same as normal. <S> Some devices have protection that will trip out under over-voltage or over-temperature conditions. <S> This protection may or may not be self-resetting <S> and it may or may not act fast enough to save the device.
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Electrical breakdown can also happen with deliberately-placed spike protection devices that were designed to break down and shunt away short spikes of overvoltage, but were not designed to handle sustained overvoltage.
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Is it OK to have 10ga wire running from breaker to switch then 8ga from switch to pump? I'm running an 8 gauge wire from the breaker box to my pump (which is 200 feet away from the house). I want to install a switch near the breaker box and want to know if I can use 10 gauge wire from the breaker to the switch and still maintain the proper amperage for the pump (i.e. so it won't overheat). The hypothetical diagram is: 220V breaker | | 10 gauge wire (under 10 feet long) |switch || || || 8 gauge wire (approximately 200 feet long) || || pump The question is: Will the 10 gauge wire mess up the run or will the pump still work right? <Q> You are free to use a conductor that is rated greater than the ampacity of the feed , but not less than. <S> If the breaker is 30 amps, you can go above #10, but not below it. <S> Likewise, if the breaker is 40 amps, you can't go smaller than #8. <S> It's not uncommon to see #8 pulled to hot tubs and the like even with a 30A breaker simply because the electrician is not sure what kind of motor is actually going to show up, so they go with the larger conductor just in case. <S> This, of course is assuming copper wire with THHN insulation. <A> 200 ft is a long distance. <S> You should check the voltage drop of the wire to keep to less than 3% at the rated current. <S> You might find that #6 or even #4 is required for this circuit. <S> http://www.csgnetwork.com/wiresizecalc.html <A> As others have pointed out, the question cannot be answered without knowing the breaker rating. <S> That said: In my experience <S> most household well pumps are about 1/2 horsepower. <S> On a 220v circuit they will draw about 7A. <S> Running such a pump on a 15A breaker is fine. <S> And a 15A breaker doesn't need anything like 8 or 10 ga wire. <S> Because of the long electrical runs, <S> many well pumps are designed to tolerate low voltage. <S> But many people will go to 1 wire size heavier to decrease the voltage drop. <S> Recommended minimums are usually included in the pump installation manual. <S> Some years ago my friendly neighbourhood pocket gopher chewed through my well powerline. <S> The line wasn't installed to code, being only about 6 inches underground, and running for much of it's length under a rock garden, so rather than try to find the break, I installed a new line. <S> That line was 12 ga. <S> for a 1/2 hp pump that in summer runs 24 hours a day. <S> Pump typically draws 5.7A in use. <S> (Limited by the recharge rate of the well bore) <S> Note in passing: If this is for a serious duty pump, consider putting in a 3 phase pump with with variable frequency drive. <S> This can reduce pump start/stop cycles, decrease starting currents, decrease energy usage somewhat. <S> Easier on both pump and plumbing.
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If you're using #8 just to compensate for the drop over distance, then yes - you can come out of the switch with #10 if #8 somehow makes termination impractical at the pump.
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Will it harm 12VDC LED light strips if I supply them with 12VAC instead? I have strips of 12 volt DC LED's that can be cut into groups of three that I am using to light buildings on a model railroad and am happy with the results. I can vary the voltage from about 6 to 12 depending on lighting needs for a specific building. I was surprised to learn that all these strips also work using the same voltage but in AC. Using AC to power these LED's would save me a lot of extra wiring. Will running these LED's on AC harm them? <Q> If the instructions or markings don't indicate that AC is acceptable then it's probably not. <S> However, a failure is not likely to be dangerous or cause a fire. <S> So you have to decide if the hassle of replacing burned out LED lighting later outweighs the hassle of giving it the proper power now. <A> If you didn't need the color changing box I'd say no problem. <S> I have landscape lights that run 12VAC and changed the bulbs over to LEDs way before anyone had thought of it. <S> They have been in there for probably 7 years with not one failure. <S> The little box that runs the remote is a different story. <S> It may or may not work right, but I don't think the LEDs themselves care if it's AC or DC. <S> I've run 12" single color LEDs on 12VAC with no problem. <A> Led's do care. <S> The breakdown voltage is usually much lower in the forward bias old school prior to Lgas <S> led's would have <S> approx .6v <S> breakdown forward bias and 1.7v reverse bias. <S> In either direction if the heat dissipation capability of the diode was exceeded the led was destroyed so putting a 30ma diode in a circuit backward usually instantly blew the diode. <S> You would need to know the breakdown voltage before trying or your leds may flash and be damaged. <S> ( If you let the magic smoke out they won't work until you can put it back in, find a way to put it back in and you will be rich$) <A> I replace an alarm clock buzzer that was getting 11vAC with a short LED strip 2 years ago, all still good. <S> (I have a dark room that faces North, the light helps feeling awake, often only need that and have it set to go off 10 minutes before other alarm). <A> I took my broken Milwaukee radio apart and have a 15v AC transformer powering 10 ft of LED DC tape light.
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Depending on the type of LED element and the driver circuit, you could either be fine or significantly shortening the lifespan of your lights.
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Should I remove baseboards prior to installing laminate or wood floors? I recently bought around 650sft of laminate floors, to replace around 570sft of carpeted floors in our MN home. These will go in on the main floor, right above an unfinished basement. I'm planning on installing these myself in the next 3 or 4 weeks, and am in the process of getting my act together (I strongly believe that planning is more critical than the actual execution of a project). Being paranoid about doing an excellent job, I'm debating whether to remove and re-install the existing baseboard molding, or leave the baseboard in place and install quarter-round (or shoe, depending on what looks better) molding after the laminate is laid. The laminate floor (with its attached pad) is about as tall as the carpet is now, and adjusting for an 1/8" gap in the vertical dimension, the baseboard will stay at the same height. So, which is better? Don't touch the baseboard, install laminate 1/4" from the baseboard and use quarter-round to cover the gap? Remove baseboard, install laminate, and put the baseboard back. I'm not averse to doing extra work to make sure this looks as professional as possible. <Q> It depends on a couple of things. <S> How much time you want to invest, how your current baseboards are installed, size of current baseboards, and what you want everything to look like. <S> No quarter round looks way more professional. <S> Also I hate the process of <S> do you make your quarter round the color of trim or floor - I always vote trim. <S> It is cheaper. <S> Quarter round costs money. <S> So does staining/painting it. <S> It saves time. <S> If you have the right tools taking your baseboards out is easy. <S> And when you put them back - well they fit. <S> Try to position your tools so that if you gouge the wall it is hidden under the baseboard. <S> This is easy with practice. <S> Who cares if the drywall has some nicks under the baseboard. <S> Cutting your quarter round to fit will take a lot of time. <S> Also what do you do between a set of doors where you need to put in 10 inches of quarter round? <S> Well you will be back on this board asking! <S> Touch up paint and caulk where needed. <S> Not taking them out starts the job faster <S> but then after your install there will be quarter round regret (because of point #1). <A> If you remove the baseboard, you risk damaging the walls. <S> Installing the laminate with quarter round will be much easier and won't damage the existing walls. <S> That's the only "better" we can answer. <S> Aesthetically, "better" is wholly subjective. <S> But I I think it'll look just as good either way, so go with easier and less damaging. <A> Leaving the baseboards in place will be easier, and may look good (depending on your taste). <S> It may even look "professional", depending on which professionals you ask. <S> If you don't mind the extra bit of work, removing the base molding and reinstalling it makes the flooring look original. <S> In my opinion, trim work should be the last thing that's done. <S> Anything on top of trim, just seems out of order.
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Take the baseboards out, freshen them up while you are at it, install floor, pop baseboards back. As long as it isn't a HUGE deal to take baseboards out I would almost always go with removing them. Your finish will look better.
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Will greenboard retard mold growth? I have had problems with mold in my kitchen behind the sink cabinet a couple of times. I have gutted the sink cabinet, the drywall behind it and the lazy susan area, leaving the countertop in place. The countertop is new and I don't want to break it. I want to replace the drywall with a mold retardant surface. That is why I want to know what greenboard is before I rebuild the cabinet under the sink. <Q> Greenboard is sheetrock where the paper is water resistant (but not necessarily water proof). <S> A better alternative to greenboard is to use a paperless sheetrock product like Densarmor, which uses a fiberglass backing rather than paper (it's the paper that mold likes). <S> Note that these products aren't designed for wet applications, however. <S> At best, they are designed for areas that 'are sometimes damp'. <S> If you have mold issues under your sink, the problem is water. <S> You have a leak somewhere. <S> That has to be fixed. <S> Replacing the sheetrock--even with one of these other products is just a bandaid and the problem will return if the leak isn't fixed. <A> A lot of people have issues behind cabinets because the drywall isn't painted properly. <S> And if things are painted properly then it usually doesn't matter. <S> Hit it with two coats of primer and one strong oil based paint. <A> I refuse to use Green board if there is even a chance of wetness and when the wall will be rarely seen (ie under steps in garage, in cabinets). <S> Hardiebacker board or cement board is the ideal product. <S> 1/2 inch cement board is available to go flush with drywall. <S> It is Mold proof and strong as heck. <S> You can always paint it after too.
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If you need truly mold proof you need to either you go hardieboard or you can use a waterproofing paint - these are expensive and a pain to apply.
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How many concrete piers do I need to support a 10 x 10 wooden floor supporting a 1600 lb shed? Aptos, CA, United States. As you've probably noticed from my prior post , I'm in the process of building a foundation for a garden shed. My specific county/region does not have strict restrictions/requirements on shed foundations or concrete use. Good news: I'm on my own. Bad news: I'm on my own. At this point, I'm pretty sure I want to go with a concrete pier foundation. The floor measurements are as follows: I was originally planning to set three rows of 8 inch piers (three piers per row) with a pressure-treated 4x4 lining each row... but now I'm wondering if that's not enough or too many... My questions are: How many concrete piers would you suggest I use in order to support a floor of this size and an empty distributed building weight of 1600 lbs (without people standing on it). Do piers always need to be at the very end? Or can there be a small overhang of wood? Ideally I'd like to have the piers away from the edges of the perimeter so they're not as visible. <Q> As with any advice you get here, keep in mind that you must stay within the bounds of IRC building codes adopted by your local municipality. <S> Your concrete piers must be a set depth to go below the frost line in your area. <S> You must set the posts on top of concrete with a post base to protect from rot. <S> When in doubt always make it stronger! <S> Increase to 12" piers with 6x6 posts. <S> Consider using 2x10 or 2x12 beams doubled or tripled on each row. <S> Make sure that each beam span is no longer than 7' if you are worried. <S> When you submit your plan for the permit then the inspector will point out any flaws or deficiencies that you need to address before you start. <S> NOTE: <S> Any specific sizes I use are merely examples of how one can increase the strength of a structure. <S> Nobody can say for sure without more specifics about the shed design. <S> Do piers always need to be at the very end? <S> Or can there be a small overhang of wood? <S> Ideally I'd like to have the piers away from the edges of the perimeter so they're not as visible. <S> When the beam extends past the last post this is called a cantilever. <S> IRC building codes specify the maximum allowable length for live load for different types of lumber, and different sizes. <A> Impossible to say. <S> The shed was designed to be supported in a particular manner. <S> It has to be supported that way. <S> If you're not inclined to that, though, an intermediate structure can be built underneath the shed that will support the shed in that manner, and which itself is designed to be supported in some other way, such as an array of 9 footings. <S> Kind of an adapter between two load patterns. <A> dont' bother. <S> just pour a concrete pad 6" thick over the footprint area. <S> its way stronger, cheaper than all of the screwing around, labour and materials to do it the other way, and you will be much happier for much longer. <S> a 10 x 10 pad 6" thick is only two yards of concrete. <S> it will cost you probably $100 for formwork, and $500 to have a truck come to deliver it all pre-mixed right to the spot. <S> rebar mesh it if you want, but not really necessary for such a small pad thats 6in thick. <S> no rot, <S> no termites, no splinters - and a slab like that will easily hold ten times your 1600lb load.
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Obtain a building permit and a local inspector will give you guidelines on minimum requirements for posts, beam spans, joist spans, etc...
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Do Silent Condensate Pumps for Air Conditioners exist? I need to install a Condensate Pump in a new A/C in a bedroom, and there is no choice but to pump the condensate up to a drain on the roof. The A/C technicians have told me about different types of condensate pumps, but they all seem to make an audible sound on regular basis when the pumping action kicks in, and even though the pumps would be on the outside of the wall of the bedroom, they will be right next to a window that will be next to a bed, so my fear is that the regular sound of the pump will be just loud enough to drive me insane as I wait for the next pumping round to kick in, and the next, and the next... So I was wondering if there are any silent condensate pumps on the market that are also reliable and that will last for years without requiring maintenance. Any ideas? <Q> Short answer. <S> In my experience as an HVAC technician: There is no completely silent condensate pump on the market that Me or my Suppliers are aware of. <S> If there was, everyone would be buying them. <S> There are however certain pumps on the market that are designed to take into consideration sound level. <S> They have great build quality along with all DiversiTech products, and also has a built in alarm and over flow sensor that can be wired into your HVAC system to stop operation of the air conditioner if there ever is a blockage in the discharge line, or if the pump should fail for whatever reason. <A> Just because you need a pump does not mean that the pump has to be right next to the air conditioner. <S> As long as you don't exceed the vertical pumping abilities of the pump and the run from the AC to the pump is downhill, you could put it farther along the wall or even around the corner. <A> Locate the a/c unit on an outside wall or a wall backing onto a bathroom, loo or kitchen. <S> Install <S> a gravity condensate drain from the /ac unit to the nearest drain. <S> I did this with a Daikin unit in my bedroom and without the condensate pump going off every few minutes <S> it is whisper quite <S> and I sleep soundly.
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The quietest pump i have ever come across is the DiversiTech ClearVue Condensate Pump .
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Can I use indoor Romex in buried outdoor conduit? Or should I use outdoor Romex? I heard that outdoor Romex doesn't need conduit as you are just supposed to bury it. Edit: Ack, I should have mentioned I have existing conduit that I want to pull the wire through. It currently has individual wires like user14408 has indicated and it looks shady. That's why I was thinking of replacing it with NM-B or UF cable. <Q> What you're calling outdoor Romex is actually called type UF ( underground feeder ) cable, it resembles Romex, but it's not. <S> Romex is a brand name for non-metallic paper bonded cable (NM-B, as printed on the jacket) with a PVC jacket. <S> This is why type UF is suitable for burying and wet locations (or dry) where NM-B cable is suitable only for very specific dry locations. <S> It's rather common to protect or shield Romex with PVC in locations where (wet or not) <S> it might be harmed by objects or people, but if you're going to be running high voltage (120 V+) <S> outdoor lighting or receptacles <S> it's a much better idea to just use UF, or PVC conduit and pull the THHN conductors through it as you need. <S> For this project you'll want to: Have someone show you how to strip UF cable, it takes a bit of skill to do it and not damage the THHN insulation when removing the PVC casing (or your fingers in the process) <S> Call a utility locating service before you dig to bury the cable, it's got to go at least 18 inches in the ground depending on your location <S> Perhaps hire someone to trench for you if you've got long runs, or intend to just bury PVC conduit and pull your own conductors. <S> Your hands and fingers will thank you. <S> Almost every time I was called to troubleshoot a tripping buried circuit it was because the UF cable wasn't stripped properly, and was shorting due to it. <A> Since @Tim's post didn't make this clear: under the current code, you are not allowed to run NM-B wire outside, even through a conduit. <S> I don't have the NEC to verify this; I read it in <S> this book <S> (pg 155, "Wiring Outside") : <S> Under the 2008 code, you must use UF cable anytime NM-style cable (even in conduit) exits the side of the house. <S> That is, you are no longer allowed to put NM-B cable in watertight conduit outside of the house in wet locations. <S> The code is vague [..] <S> [about] NM-B cable under the house in a crawl space, or under a deck. <S> [Edit] <S> The proper NEC code reference is <S> 334.12 Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable - Uses Not Permitted . <S> See <S> this answer for more details. <A> You cannot use nonmetallic sheathed cable (Type NM, NMS) in conduit in any damp, or wet location ( NEC 2011 300.5(B), 300.9, 334.12(B)(4) ). <S> Instead, you'll want to use individual conductors rated for wet/damp locations. <S> Thermoplastic Heat and Water-resistant Nylon-coated (THWN) <S> insulated conductors are commonly used in this situation, as well as directly buried underground feeder (UF) cable. <S> Article 310.10(C) of the 2011 National Electrical Code (NEC), lists the types of insulated conductors allowed in wet locations. <S> National Electrical Code 2011 <S> ARTICLE 310 Conductors for General Wiring II. <S> Installation 310.10 Uses Permitted. <S> These conductors shall be permitted for use in any of the wiring methods recognized in Chapter 3 and as specified in their respective tables or as permitted elsewhere in this Code. <S> C) <S> Wet Locations. <S> Insulated conductors and cables used in wet locations shall comply with one of the following: <S> (1) Be <S> moisture-impervious metal-sheathed (2) Be types <S> MTW, RHW, RHW-2, TW, THW, THW-2, THHW, THWN, THWN-2, XHHW, XHHW-2, ZW (3) Be of a type listed for use in wet locations <A> I'd check local code. <S> The state/county I live in allows it, but recommends individual wires rather than sheathed (romex).Also remember sheathed(romex) <S> wire has a lower amp rating than separate wires in conduit. <S> (Romex has lower temperature range in the Amp chart, giving it a lower max amps rating) <S> Ex: power feed to my workshed thru 1" conduit. <S> #6 romex <S> == 45amps. <S> Same exact wires w/o the vinyl sheath = <S> = <S> 50+amps (got my 50A feed) <S> Personally, I very much prefer conduit to direct burial. <S> Always check local codes. <S> City where my office is located requires a 16g tracer wire 6"+ above buried electric, gas, water, sprinkler (color: green, yellow, blue, purple). <S> Was a surprise to me. <S> You might want to give more info about location and what your feeding with the line. <S> I'm sure others will be along with better answers. <S> RJ
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UF cable is THHN conductors plus a ground encased completely in PVC. When using UF, please take my advice on getting someone to show you how to strip it, the folks at your local electrical supply or home center will probably be more than happy to show you.
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How to I safely anchor a safety line to a chimney? I am going to be installing an antenna at the top of my brick chimney and I'd like to be able to use a safety line with a fall arrestor. The chimney visually looks OK. I'm trying to figure out the safest way to anchor to the top of the chimney. So far I've considered two options: A steel anchor with an expansion bolt into a brick on the chimney. A downside I see to this is that all of the load would be placed on a single brick, and if that one brick came loose, I'd fall. I could improve this by installing two anchor points, but if one brick pulled out I'm not sure I'd have much faith in the second one. Steel Bolt http://www.petzl.com/files/imagecache/product_outdoor_slideshow_image/node_media/coeur-goujon_4.jpg Wrapping webbing around the chimney and anchoring to the webbing. This would be more difficult to install as I'd have to get around the entire chimney, and in the event that the entire chimney was not structurally sound, I risk the entire chimney coming down on top of me in the event I fell. (source: canyoneeringusa.com ) Are there any other methods which I might have missed? If not, of these two which would be the safest? <Q> There is no reliable data I know of for the ultimate strength of expansion anchors in brick masonry. <S> It's not a viable anchor system <S> no matter how many you use (within reason). <S> You are almost better off with no protection because then you will make damn sure you do not fall. <S> (Just kidding, but there is some logic to this amongst rock climbers). <S> As you note, there is a risk of the entire chimney failing. <S> This risk is difficult to assess, depending on the chimney's age, method of construction (reinforced?), type of brick, the mortar mix used, it's anchorage to adjacent structure, etc. <S> The anchor should be placed as close to the highest chimney anchorage as possible, though it increases your fall distance, it decreases the bending moment in the structure. <S> If the resulting fall distance is unacceptable, or there is no anchorage, you need to consider alternatives. <S> An anchor system installed into the structure of the building is most secure. <S> This allows possibly a higher anchor (less fall distance) and a more desirable fall factor (proportionally more rope involved for a given fall distance reduces shock loading). <S> This will involve locating structural members and using appropriate fasteners, as well as dealing with sealing around the anchor to prevent roof leaks. <S> There are manufactured fall arrest anchors suitable to such applications. <S> By following recommended installation instructions, these anchors in the US are OSHA approved and will resist 5000 lbs of force. <S> This is the only sure way of achieving an adequate anchor system. <S> In the US, OSHA fall protection requirements are applicable to work done on single family residences. <S> That's the official line as I know it. <S> That said, I have a similar situation where I sank a single 5/16"x3" solid, shouldered eye screw (hot dipped galvanized) into the center of one roof rafter, straight through the roofing, sealant applied before applying the final few turns. <S> It's been there for decades with no evidence of leakage or corrosion. <S> It does not meet OSHA standards <S> but I consider it marginally adequate in the event of a fall for my particular situation. <S> It will not be adequate for other situations. <A> Attaching to the chimney is not a good idea. <S> Just forget about that idea. <S> If you want to protect against a fall while you are at the top of the chimney, you need to anchor your line at or above your working height. <S> If you don't have anything else near by <S> then you're out of luck. <S> I recommend looking to to renting a towable manlift . <A> A suitable ladder stabiliser would provide a little extra extra security. <A> Why not try something like this: <S> set up two anchor points, such as large hookeyes, screwed into the wooden siding on either side of the house in line with the chimney attach a safety line to one hookeye and toss it over the peak if the roof near the chimney attach to the other hookeye leaving some slack. <S> attach your safety line to the transverse line. <S> You could put knots or loops into the transverse line to create natural stops in the event of a slip. <S> Or you could call in a pro (I hate high ladders and roof work). .
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An anchor system around the entire chimney is a much better option if properly placed.
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Assuming you can go either way, is it better to install a Multi-split or multiple Split Air Conditioners? For 2 bedrooms and 1 living room, and assuming you have the flexibility for both options and the total output is the same, is it better to install a Multi-Split 3x1 Air Con System (3 interior units / 1 exterior unit), or to install 3 separate Split Air Con Systems (3 interior units / 3 exterior units)? Also, which setup is generally more energy-efficient? <Q> There are three issues here, which system is better, which system is more energy-efficient and which system is more reliable. <S> The first issue encompasses all aspects and involves a priority ranking which only you can do. <S> An issue not brought up by anyone else is the installation. <S> Do you have room for 3 outside units? <S> Does it matter if more space is used or would you prefer to use that space for landscaping or something else? <S> What about electrical power? <S> Will the installer need to run 3 circuits, one for each compressor? <S> Does your existing breaker panel have the room for 3 circuits? <S> Another installation consideration: which system is easier to run the linesets (tubes which carry the liquid and gas freon) for? <S> I expect 3 compressors to cost more than one big compressor. <S> Have you gotten any price quotes? <S> The major factor in power consumption is turning the freon back into a liquid and that depends on how fast/easily the condenser can cool it off. <S> All else being equal, a bigger condenser is better (removes the heat faster). <S> The faster you condense the freon, the less back pressure on the compressor and the less work for the motor. <S> Most of the time you will not be running full load or all indoor units at once. <S> Even during full load, the big unit will never be less efficient. <S> The last question is reliability and available. <S> One answer correctly claims that a 3 unit system will be more available but neglects to mention that it will also be more prone to failure because you have more units to fail and each unit is more likely to be run at full capacity while the big unit will usually be running well below its full capacity. <S> Imagine the lifetime of two cars, one run at 90 MPH and one run at 30 MPH. <A> These days this is a great question. <S> The mini-splits have exceptional SEER ratings (as high as 28), almost too good to be true. <S> The multi-split (a.k.a. VRF or VSHP), not as good. <S> There have been tests of a mini-split for efficiency (at the Florida Solar Energy Center) and the claims were found to be accurate. <S> For now I tend to believe that the more indoor units are connected to a single outdoor unit, the more difficult it is for the control algorithm to "efficiently" control the entire system. <S> If it's not too much imposition to install multiple outdoor units, I don't think you would ever regret it, especially after you saw your first electric bill. <S> Good Luck! <A> Besides efficiency, something to consider is that with the major shared component in the multi-split system, you run the risk of a failure taking out your entire air conditioning capacity. <S> A way to mitigate this would be to have a dedicated mini-split for the master bedroom and multi-split the rest of the rooms. <S> However, with only three rooms to condition, there is probably not much advantage to this arrangement, so just go for three mini-split systems.
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The one big compressor, assuming it is capable of variable speed, will certainly be more significantly more efficient under anything less than full load because the condenser of a single outdoor unit system has three times the cooling area of a single condenser in a 3 unit system which means the compressor motor doesn't have to work as hard.
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Need to know if this is mold or not This may be an obvious answer to some but I know next to nothing about molds / fungus etc. Is this mold, or black mold? I've been finding it throughout my house, usually by window sills, and am hoping to find out what it is, and how to treat it. Any info would be appreciated, thanks <Q> Yes, it's mold. <S> This happened in my apartment after an extended stay away from home during the summer. <S> I used plain old soap and water and it has worked for me. <S> I had no problems doing it this way. <S> There is no way to indefinitely get rid of all the mold (you will inevitably leave some mold spores behind) as long as there is enough moisture in the air. <S> There are many ways to prevent mold growth. <S> I have not had any mold since. <S> No mold will grow without moisture. <S> Get rid of the moisture and you will get rid of the mold. <S> Update <S> I found an article that does a good job explaining how to get rid of mold . <A> You need continuous moisture for an extended period (like months) to grow black mold (the toxic kind). <S> Plus, black mold typically doesn't grow on windowsills--it's usually found in places near leaking sinks or showers, for example. <S> So you're probably not dealing with the really nasty stuff, that's the good news. <S> Mold doesn't feed on aluminum... <S> but it does feed on debris from particulate in the air that lands on the sills. <S> You tend to get mold problems right around the windows because of condensation from warm damp air being exposed to cooler temperatures on the window surface/sills. <S> First, you want to remove the existing mold from the surface. <S> Ordinary household dish soap (mixed with water, preferably foamy) is adequate for this purpose. <S> As a secondary effect, cleaning with soap will also help remove the debris that feeds mold growth. <S> Secondly, regular cleaning of the sills to prevent accumulation of organic debris will help prevent mold from re-growing. <S> Reducing or removing condensation will also help prevent mold growth, such as using a de-humidifier, exhaust fans while cooking or showering, or opening a window periodically during dry weather to let moisture out of the home. <A> I live in an extremely wet and mild area and have always battled mold/mildew in the windowsills. <S> I have found that bleach works most effectively. <S> But really trying to keep your house moisture free, well lit, and properly aired out are the best ways to avoid mold infestations. <S> Also some people are allergic to mold, getting headaches or flu and asthma like symptoms.
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What you're most likely seeing is ordinary mold growing on dust, dander, dirt, mold, skin cells, and the like that have landed on the windowsills/edges. I bought a dehumidifier and it seems to have done the trick.
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Where does the ground wire go in a 3-prong dryer cord configuration? We moved to a new place where the dryer connection is 3-prong instead of 4-prong. The dryer was originally 4-prong, so we bought a 3-prong cord and installed it. It works fine, except I am not entirely sure if I installed the ground wire correctly. Originally, there was a green wire on the cord itself, and that was connected to the screw on the top of the first picture. This is, I assume, used to ground the case and prevent shocks when touching the exterior of the dryer. Now with the 3-pronged plug, there is no ground wire on the cord. So where does the existing green wire in the case go? Do I leave it where it originally was like in the first picture or do I connect it to the central terminal like in the second picture? There's no bonding strap running from the case to any terminal. I can't tell where the green wire is connected to. <Q> DO NOT connect the ground wire to the grounded (neutral) conductor, as this could lead to current flowing through the body of the dryer (and potentially through you). <S> The installation guide for the dryer will have wiring instructions for both 3, and 4 wire configurations. <S> Check the manufacturers documentation for proper wiring, but I would say the first image is likely correct. <S> Instructions from random <S> Maytag Installation Instructions (PDF) 3 Wire Cord 4 Wire Cord <S> Update: After doing some research, and looking at dryer wiring diagrams. <S> It turns out that the green/yellow wire is not a ground wire, it is a neutral to case bonding wire. <S> When this wire is not in use (in a 4-wire installation for example), it is simply connected to the neutral terminal and is unused. <A> Dryers with three-prongs are grounded using the neutral wire, when hooked up correctly (see @Tester101's answer for info on how to do that) . <S> Normally grounding a device via the neutral wire is not allowed. <S> However, the NEC specifically makes an exception for ovens and dryers: <S> 250.140 Frames of Ranges and Clothes Dryers. <S> [...] Exception: For existing branch-circuit installations only where an equipment grounding conductor is not present in the outlet or junction box, the frames of electric ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, clothes dryers, and outlet or junction boxes that are part of the circuit for these appliances shall be permitted to be connected to the grounded circuit conductor if all the fol- lowing conditions are met. <S> The supply circuit is 120/240-volt, single-phase, 3-wire; or 208Y/120-volt derived from a 3-phase, 4-wire, wye- connected system. <S> The grounded conductor is not smaller than 10 AWG copper or 8 AWG aluminum. <S> The grounded conductor is insulated, or the grounded conductor is uninsulated and part of a Type SE service-entrance cable and the branch circuit originates at the service equipment. <S> Grounding contacts of receptacles furnished as part of the equipment are bonded to the equipment. <S> It's important to note that this means on many (all?) <S> dryers, the green grounding-wire should not be connected to the grounding screw when using a 4-prong wire, only with a 3-prong wire! <A> There is a single phase that is split into two legs that goes into your house, known as "split phase". <S> Each leg is 120VAC with 180 degree (directly out of phase) phase shift from the other leg. <S> Some dryers and cook tops require only 240VAC to operate. <S> In such cases, the "neutral" wire acts the same as the earth GND in a single 120V leg, which means this wire does not carry current when the circuit is operating normally. <S> That's why the neutral and earth GND can be connected for such 240V outlets in your home (120V outlets should have separate Neutral and GND wires). <A> The Service panel is bonded... <S> Ground to Neutral bar... <S> On 3 wire 220 volt circuits. <S> This still gives a path to ground. <S> If a short should happen back to the source. <S> The source being the transformer feeding the service entrance. <S> In a 4 wire.. <S> The ground from the supply cord is screwed to the grounding screw.. <S> This protects the dryer from becoming energized.. <S> Be advised.. <S> I have seen this screwed up on Coffee makers. <S> The heating element goes out. <S> And the coffee maker becomes energized. <S> Yet does not trip the over current protection ie Breaker....
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The ground is bonded to the Neutral connection as shown in the 3 wire diagram on the dryer.. So, make sure to find and follow the directions for your dryer when installing a new cord!
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Decipher my bathroom rough in Can someone help me decipher this picture? When I had the house built, the builder roughed in a bathroom for later use. The pipes in this picture are A 2" pipe, possible a vent with a T connector (facing the wrong way) already on it? A pipe with a cap. Cap measures 4.5". Maybe for toilet? A huge pipe with a cap. Cap measures 6.25". Maybe for shower drain? A pipe with a cap. Cap measures 2.5". Maybe Sink drain? Seems really close to #3. number 1 looks like it's capped and not a clean out, which leads me to believe it was a vent and that it seems like the adapter is facing the wrong way. Is there an easy way to turn it the right way? <Q> I ended up contacting the plumbing company that did the rough in. <S> They said: 1-Drain and vent for basement sink <S> 2-Toilet rough- <S> in <S> 3-Backwater Valve <S> 4-Tub Drain <A> Here is my best guess. <S> #2 is a shower drain. <S> The #1 pipe is the vent for the shower. <S> The tee is to connect the lavatory trap arm, making the pipe between the tee and the shower trap arm (below slab) a wet vent. <S> Wet vents are allow only in certain situations, this is one of them. <S> #3 is the toilet drain. <S> #4 is most likely a vent for the toilet, unless you know of another pipe within 7 feet of the toilet that may be a vent. <S> #1 is too far to vent the toilet. <S> Or if they are not elbows but tees or wyes, though it may be impossible to tell the difference. <S> Also if any to the elbows appear to be a 45 degree bend instead of the usual 90 degree. <S> If #2 is a shower, there should be a trap below that holds water, as opposed to an elbow that does not hold water. <S> Tub, shower, and floor drains are the only fixtures that have traps below the floor level, so the existence of a trap is an important clue. <A> /#2 <S> = <S> Shower /#3 <S> = <S> toilet <S> /#4 <S> = sink <S> /#1 = <S> vent - most new home rough-ins include no venting in basement because this is usually very easy to integrate. <S> You got one. <S> You can use this to vent everything up to main stack. <S> #4 is supposed to be in wall. <S> Putting a wall there would given you the right spacing for a toilet being near wall. <S> Showers are very hard to rough-in before knowing what type of tub or pan you get. <S> Only thing a little odd is that sink drain/toilet are so far from your outer wall.
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You could also wet vent a lavatory through the toilet vent if that location is better than the #1 pipe. Removing the caps and determining which direction the elbows below turn would be useful information in corroborating my guesses. Your basement has a very very common configuration. That is what I would be most worried about. If it is a vent, it needs to be carried up and tied into the main vent system somehow.
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Can I use just molding to hold down a floating floor or must I use quarter-round? I am installing a floating floor (click-lock). The molding is all coming off anyway. Can I use just molding to hold the floating floor down or must I use molding AND quarter-round?? <Q> Most molding (skirting board) is 3/8" thick. <S> You need a 1/4 inch gap around the floor to allow for expansion due to moisture. <S> So if you're going up right against the drywall, you'll have a problem with getting molding thick enough to cover it (minor variations in the gap WILL show). <S> One alternative is to buy the stuff they sell as window/door casing which is usually closer to 3/4" thick on one edge. <S> This is a bit pricier, and can look a bit heavy. <S> An attractive alternative, which can give you a nice look is to use door stop instead of quarter round. <S> This is basically the same as using quarter round, but it's smaller and lighter, and doesn't encroach on the floor as much. <A> No you never need to use quarterround. <S> I try to do all installs without using it. <S> 2 best options: Slice out the bottom .25-.5 inch of drywall so that your flooring has the proper expansion gap. <S> Buy trim that is thicker and will cover expansion gap. <S> Also you should never press down trim on flooring - it can be gently set on it. <S> If you do press down on flooring you can see some interesting results in a year or two after humidity changes in the house. <A> Gravity should be holding your floor down. <S> Moulding should be mostly decorative in that sense. <S> So, use whatever you prefer aesthetically.
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However, if your drywall doesn't come all the way down to the floor (usually a basement scenario) then as long as you have that quarter inch gap under the drywall free and clear, you should be ok with just ordinary skirting board.
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Easy way to remove tile concrete from bathroom wall? Are there an easy to to remove tile concrete from the wall? Are there e.g. some way to get it off in whole pieces so cleaning up afterwards will be easier? Here is a picture of the wall in question. The tile concrete is about 2cm thick. <Q> Easy, no. <S> I have used a 7 1/2inch circular saw fitted with a diamond blade. <S> Shop vac, dust mask, fan in window (box fan fitted with furnace filter does wonders) <S> Depending on your helpers back strength, I'll cut horizontally at 2 to 3 foot intervals. <S> usually its held together with a metal lath (wood in older homes, pre 1940s). <S> Watch your toes, each piece will be 20-30 lbs. <S> PS leave the first row removed laying on the floor. <S> It will absorb the fall of any dropped pieces... <S> Nails holding the lath will act like hinges then let go at inopportune moments. <A> Another option is a angle grinder with a masonry blade on that. <S> I would prefer that over a circular saw, but it will probably be a little slower. <A> It doesn't have to be dirty or dusty. <S> Make your strikes a few inches away and make straight lines going down so that you can pull out 8-10 inch strips of the concrete.
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I set the depth of the cut to be just the thickness of the mortar and try to cut vertically along each stud. It's a dirty, dusty, hard job. Pry each panel off (large crowbars or flatbars) Whack it with a good hammer... It isn't for everyone but takes about the same amount of time - although more man-power.
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How can I seal this hanging electrical outlet in my horse barn? I really am not a fixer type of gal but this seems like it should be simple enough. Please respond appropriately for someone who has limited knowledge. I have a hanging outlet in my horse barn. It seems to be properly wired per a contractor friend. All wiring enclosed in conduit, etc. The only problem is, it appears that this outlet box has lost its seal? The front plate is coming off (where the outlets are) of the rest of the box. There are no screws that can be tightened to fix this. The box says on it "For use in wet or damp spaces, use sealing compound to seal." Okay, but what type of sealing compound? And do I apply it around the edges? Don't worry, I know to shut off the power to the barn prior to fussing with anything electrical. <Q> The screws that are missing to hold all parts together can usually be replaced at any Home Depot or electrical supply store for just a few cents per ea. <S> It can be installed high-up still rendering it useful and out of the way of any horses but will provide more stability to the whole thing. <A> I think I know what kind of outlet you have, but I am vexed trying to find a photo of one online. <S> It is a thick flexible cord hanging from the ceiling or a joist with a strain relief—like coiled spring-like wire with an outlet box at the end. <S> Maybe the cord has some flexible coils or other means for adapting the height of the outlet above the ground. <S> To seal this, clear silicone caulk is more than sufficient. <A> I agree with the above answers that the box should be secure to a beam or post. <S> The outlet then has two screws that hold it into the box. <S> Finally there is a center screw (or with a GFI type receptacle - one at each end) that holds the cover over the receptacle and sandwiches a soft gasket between the cover and the box. <S> Since this is an installation over a wet area, it must be a GFI (ground fault) <S> receptacle to be safe.
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The hanging outlet box I have seen used several times in barns, however if a 2 by 4 can be attached to a ceiling crossbeam and placed perpendicular to those beams it will offer more stability to the box and wiring. Silicone caulk works wonders in all kinds of situations.
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What's the best tool for shoveling gravel? I have a couple of cubic meters of gravel (3-4cm, round, no edges) in a big pile. I want to move this gravel, some of it becomes foundation for the kids' sand pit, and some should go along the outer walls of the house as rain splash guard. I figure I can use a wheelbarrow and a shovel for this, but I am also thinking that it is going to be hard to shovel the gravel with said shovel. Is there a better tool for the job? <Q> A "sided" shovel (AKA coal or transfer shovel) is very efficient, especially if you have a hard, flat surface to shovel off of (plywood is great). <A> Is there a better tool for the job? <S> As for manual shovels, use what works for you. <S> It's easier to 'get into' the pile with and you don't over-load it. <S> Then I tend to use the flat coal shovel like HerrBag recommends when the pile gets low and you are doing more scraping of the loose material together. <A> For the top half or so of the pile, I first create a small indentation at the bottom of the pile with a shovel. <S> This lets me drive my wheelbarrow right into the pile <S> and then I can simply rake gravel directly into it. <S> I second HerrBag's suggestion for choice of shovel with the smaller gravel sizes. <S> Worth noting that once when I had a large pile to move I rented a gas-powered wheelbarrow. <S> Didn't cost much and saved my back. <A> For shoveling, I second @herrbag ... <S> Alternatively, for the top of the pile, the gravel can be raked off the top and into a chute that empties into a wheel barrow or a 5 gal bucket. <S> As the height of the pile dwindles, a hole can be dug into the ground for the 5 gal bucket, and continued use of the chute. <S> OR ... <S> A manageable amount of gravel can be raked onto a sheet of canvas, the corners then gathered up and hoisted into a wheel barrow, or ziplined to the site of deposit. <S> Raking can be done with a metal garden rake, a hoe, or a shovel.
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I prefer a pointed garden shovel for larger rock.
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Should we be rewiring or pigtailing the aluminum wiring in our condo? We have purchased a condo home that was built in 1975. The inspector brought up the hazards of aluminum wiring. Since we have very little knowledge regarding this area we were wondering if we should rewire the entire place or if it is OK just to have an electrician pigtail? Can you please help? We just want to ensure our safety. <Q> Aluminum wiring is not the fire hazard people would have you think it is. <S> This usually means that contractors using outlets or devices that are not rated for aluminum. <S> This does cause the wire to eventually overheat at contact and expand/contract so many times that it becomes brittle and can short. <S> Pigtailing aluminum is perfectly acceptable. <S> Your electrician would just go to every outlet and pigtail the aluminum with a short copper strand using a Al/Cu Wire Connector (these are usually purple for identification). <S> This is probably the best solution for lights and other "non" outlets. <S> For outlets you can pigtail or just connect an Al/Cu <S> rated outlet. <S> However your local building code may have <S> stipulations - mine is fine with correctly rated outlets. <S> I have read in other places that they require pigtails and I have read in other places (an electrician driven county) that they require a rewire. <A> As with all things CHECK YOUR LOCAL CODES. <S> I work for an Electrical contractor in Florida. <S> We currently have a contract with a townhouse community of 200 plus units built in the 70's with aluminum wire. <S> All receptacles have to be tamper "resistant" and GFI's are required. <S> At least one in a bathroom provided if a second bathroom is on the same floor it feeds off of the first. <S> (Load and line side apply) and at least one in the kitchen (again first in the home run from the breaker panel) and any outside receptacles (unless they are protected by a GFI breaker). <S> We're also required to add ground wire to the switches. <S> On average you'll need 2 two ports (2 holes with screws) per single pole switch, 3 two ports per three way and 4 two ports per four way, 4 two ports per GFI, 2 three ports per regular receptacle, and 1 three port and 2 two ports per switched receptacle. <A> My house was built in 1974 and has aluminum wiring. <S> After 45 years I have just added decorative Copper only plugs and switches using the pigtail and anti-oxidant joint compound method for hooking them up. <S> Interesting thing is all of the old plugs and switches were copper only and they were hooked directly to the aluminum wire. <S> I never found any of the connections that showed any signs of deterioration, oxidation or heating problems. <S> Could this be another fantiscie of the manufacturing industry to sell more product at a higher price.
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We use purple AlumiConns WITH Noalox Anti‑Oxidant Compound in it and 14 gauge copper pig tails. In fact it is perfectly safe and there has been studies showing that the only increased chance of fire is produced with an improper installation. In our case and per our code we are replacing ALL receptacles and switches with a copper rating.
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Building on top of 3/4'' plywood subfloor I want to build this: http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2012/12/21/how-to-make-a-relatively-sweet-shower-cheap/ and I'm building in my basement bathroom: on top of the foundation I have 2x4 (horizontal) making joists (space about 4-6" apart) and the 3/4 plywood to make the sub floor. So my question: is 3/4'' sufficient? <Q> The 3/4 sub sub floor is sufficient. <S> I have some comments about Redguard on the shower floor. <S> While the product (and others like it) is rated for a directly-under-the-tile waterproofing, I have some cautions (directed at the installation in the DIY blog article) : Be sure you do a minimum of 2 coats, at right angles (as recommended). <S> Be sure you lightly hone the cement base with a rubbing block, for a bump-free surface, before coating. <S> If you have any voids, fill them in with the thinset you will use, before coating (using a portland cement thinset, not a premixed mastic thinset) <S> Be aware that the unprotected Redguard IS NOT abrasion, scuff or scratch resistant. <S> A dropped tool or tile will cut it. <S> Be very careful walking and kneeling on it.. <S> Consider using a sheet membrane product ( Kerdi , NobleSeal TS ) for the floor and using Redguard on the walls only. <S> I would put the Redguard at least 4ft high on the walls or a foot higher than wherever the direct spray would hit the wall opposite the spray head (whichever is higher). <A> <A> Do not Red-Guard the entire Shower Floor. <S> Leave approx: 1 foot perimeter around the drain without Red-Guard. <S> If not, any water between the tile and Red Guard near the drain may sit there and develop mold. <S> By Red Guarding the entire Shower Floor area, you run that risk. <S> In My Opinion, of course. <S> This is providing you have a Membrane just above the leveling Mud layer.
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Yes, 3/4 inch plywood (not particle board, MDX, or whatever) is a standard subfloor in quality construction.
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Why are all the toilets in my house running intermittently? All of my toilets in the house have started to run intermittently. Is there something wrong with the plumbing or could it be that the flapper has gone bad on all the toilets at the same time? <Q> You have to diagnose why the toilets are running, but given that multiple toilets have started running simultaneously, I'm guessing your water pressure is too high. <S> This can be due to a falling PRV or a missing or failing expansion tank. <S> See this answer for the steps to check an expansion tank. <S> This answer may also be helpful. <S> If you find your water pressure is well over 60psi <S> (I believe) all the time, then you need a PRV (or to replace your existing one). <S> If checking your water pressure shows that it's never high, then it's time to diagnose the toilets. <S> If the float valve is adjusted too high and allows the water to reach the overflow, then you may be losing water through the overflow and the toilet will cycle to makeup the lost water. <S> I've also seen cases where the tube to refill the toilet was installed in such a way that it was below the water level <S> and it eventually siphoned water through the fill valve into the overflow drain. <S> The water would siphon down until the toilet ran to makeup for lost water. <S> The most common reason is a bad seal on the flapper valve. <S> Depending on the flapper design, this may be replaceable without disassembling the toilet tank. <S> Typically, the reason these fail is from high water pressure. <S> But the symptom will be a high water level, well above where the float should shut it off. <S> You may find the float submerged if this happens. <A> There's nothing wrong with the plumbing... <S> the flappers do go bad eventually. <S> I h ave an ongoing problem with my 2 toilets. <S> Not that it's really on-going, it's that I put it off until I can't stand it. <S> Replace one of them (the flapper or the whole kit) and see if the problem is solved (it will be!) <S> . <S> I don't have to tell you what to do with the rest of your plumbing if this works. <A> Remove the tank lid and look inside. <S> There will be a copper tube sticking up in the middle. <S> If the level of water is up to the top of the copper tube and draining into the tube, which would make it above the max fill line, you have a bad fill valve. <S> The fill valve is the component that sticks up from the left side (usually) of the tank and has the float (or float arm is connected to it in the case of older style ball floats.) <S> If the water level is not up to the top of the copper tube you have a bad flapper that isn't making a good sel and letting water escape. <S> The flapper is a rubber lid that covers the outflow port on the bottom middle of the tank. <S> It is connected to the lever via a chain and arm. <S> You're best bet is to just replace them both to save yourself the hassle of replacing the other at a later point. <S> They come in a kit. <S> Take a picture of the flappers to make sure the one in the kit will work or get an appropriate flapper. <S> I really like the Korky QuietFill valves. <S> They're quieter than the FluidMaster ones they replace and have lasted longer for me. <S> I think the oldest one I have installed is going on 10 years now without problems. <A> It's probably the flappers. <S> Since they are pretty cheap, they usually get replaced all at once. <S> Same flappers sitting in the same water, going to deteriorate at the same pace.
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One last possibility is a failing valve on the toilet.
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How do I secure electrical wiring to a pocket door frame? I recently installed 2 pocket door kits together from one room to an adjacent in my house. The building inspector said he saw no problem with me installing a light switch in a shallow electrical box on the pocket door frame as long as I could properly secure the wire per code, within 8" of the box. The frame is 3/4" thick and 14/2 wiring is a little over 3/8" wide. In the image below, how do I secure the wiring which runs to the switch (just 1 wire) to the edge of the frame? Has anyone come across this before? What can I do to make sure it doesn't come loose and start rattling against the door? Obviously the purpose is to keep the light switch to the room as close to the entrance as comfortable. In fact I may move the switch down one stud to make room for molding, In either case the question is the same. The wiring will come in just above the frame and below the header in this picture below, and then run down the metal stud to the switch box. <Q> My expectation when opening a door (either hinged or pocket) is that the switch is inside on the strike side of the door. <S> Strike side location would avoid the pocket door completely. <S> You are asking for trouble by routing the cable so near the surface. <S> If you are trying to use NM cable, you would have to armor the cable the whole way up, because its not center stud (I believe within 1.25 inches of stud edge. <S> National Electrical Code 2011 <S> ARTICLE 300 Wiring Methods 300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage. <S> (D) Cables and Raceways Parallel to Framing Members and Furring Strips. <S> In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed parallel to framing members, such as joists, rafters, or studs, or is installed parallel to furring strips, the cable or raceway shall be installed and supported so that the nearest outside surface of the cable or raceway is not less than 32 mm (11⁄4 in.) <S> from the nearest edge of the framing member or furring strips where nails or screws are likely to penetrate. <S> Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by nails or screws by a steel plate, sleeve, or equivalent <S> at least 1.6 mm (1⁄16 in.) <S> thick. <A> Perhaps cable clips like these. <S> I would drill a hole through the base and install them with metal screws into the edge of the stud, then insert the cable. <S> The hole into the metal edge of the stud should be pre-drilled. <S> If they fit, I would use several to ensure that the cable did not stray into the door channel. <S> The illustrated ones are too large (1"). <S> You may be able to find smaller ones or cut these down. <S> Mount as discussed above. <S> After mounting the clip, thread the zip tie through the slots and around the cable. <S> While nailing into the finished wall in this vicinity is not very likely, you need to be careful since the power carrying cable will be very close to the back of the plasterboard. <A> I have to use at least 30 characters to suggest: zip-ties.
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When installing the casing, be sure that no nails stray beyond the stud (they shouldn't anyway). There are also cable clips that use zip ties, as suggested by DA01.
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How do I move a slab of concrete? I want to build a fence in my backyard by my garbage stand is sitting on a concrete slab and that slab is in the way of where I want to put the fence so I want to move it over a few feet. The slab of concrete is 5' by 5'8'' by 6''.I popped those dimensions in an online concrete calculator and it says it weighs over 800kg. I don't think it is a good idea to try to chain it to my car and drag it. Would it be possible to move something that size with a lever of some sort? Or should I bite the bullet and just destroy the slab? <Q> I don't agree with any of the comments. <S> It is impractical to move it. <S> First unless you use big equipment the chances of it breaking are solid. <S> But lets look past moving it and say that is "easy". <S> Where are you moving it to? <S> The bottom is probably all over the place meaning that unless where you are moving it to has very similar ground characteristics then this thing will probably not sit the way you want it to. <S> Added Note: <S> When we are breaking up big slabs like this we often break up concrete. <S> Move the concrete out of the way. <S> Dig down another 10-12 inches <S> (I know it is hard work but doesn't take long). <S> Then put concrete back or at least most of it with about 4-6 inches of dirt over it. <S> You will be left with some dirt left over and maybe a little concrete. <S> You will spend time digging but not time hauling concrete. <S> Also the extra dirt is usually easy to dispose somewhere in the yard. <A> If the surface of the slab is flush with surrounding ground <S> I'd consider building the fence across the slab. <A> There are more options than "move it" or "break it and remove it." <S> It would save a lot of labor but would cost a bit for rental. <A> I agree with all said, but I'm more of a do or replace kind. <S> Just wrap a tie rope around the edge an connect the other side of the rope/strap to the bumber of your car. <S> Pull it where you want. <S> If it doesn't sit right, sledge it and remove. <S> It's fairly cheap to pour a new 25 sq.ft. <S> slab. <S> Otherwise, after you move it, hit the under side (edges of the slab) with water and see if it will settle (do arobics on the slab). <S> Sounds like it's not a structural pad so not to worry too much if it takes time to settle.
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You could then saw off a portion of the slab, chip out a trough for clearance for fence rails or drill out a smaller area to allow a fencepost to be inserted. Check with a local rental store to see what sort of concrete saws and/or drill bits are available. If it won't pull, sledge it.
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What is an efficient way of removing thick grout haze? I have replaced a cracked tile in my kitchen and have set the grout accordingly. I must have missed a step because the haze (which is supposed to come up with a cheese cloth) is more like London fog, and is not coming up without significant effort. Surely there has to be a better way to get (very thick) haze off the surface of a tile? I have a Dremel and it was very helpful for removing the old grout- is there a relatively soft polish/brush bit I can use? (Fortunately the tile appears to be pretty heavy duty, so I am less concerned about scratching the glaze than I am about removing the excess grout.) <Q> You need to keep it wet. <S> I use vinegar water solution and try to let it sit on the tile for a good 10-20 mins. <S> Scoop it up and repeat. <S> If you are polishing it dry <S> you will make it worse (or no better). <S> Also next time take a heavy dawn/water mix and rub it on your tile before you grout. <S> When it is dry then you grout. <S> And your grout slides off the tile. <A> An amateur tile installer did not do any haze removal in our new shower. <S> Alas, it was epoxy-based grout. <S> I tried vinegar, CLR, TSP, alcohol, water, and all kinds of "miracle" cleaning tools. <S> The best was a plain $1.80 <S> razor scraper plus time: approximately 80 hours (a few hours each evening for more than a month). <S> In my case, it worked well because the tile had a mirror smooth finish. <S> And the time spent was quite meditative and therapeutic. <S> If there had been any surface texture on the tile, I don't know what I would have done. <S> Maybe bust out all the tile and do it again. <A> A Scotch Brite pad has always worked for me.
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If you are dealing with a large area, use a random orbital sander with a Scotch Brite attachment and the universal lubricant, water.
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How can I subtly mark a height difference to prevent tripping? Between two of my rooms I have a height difference of about 4cm. What is an obvious but subtle way to mark the marble floor so the step is obvious, and help to prevent tripping? I'm thinking of using mini battery-operated LED lights. By the way in case anyone is curious that step leads to the kitchen and there are necessary pipes underneath it. Hence the raised floor. <Q> That is one tricky step you have! <S> Something to alert the peripheral vision of a change in height. <S> Really curious to see how you solve this. <S> Good luck! <A> I wouldn't have an overhang on that step first of all. <S> Then I would change the color of the first row of the top step - could also at the same time make the cuts so it doesn't hang over. <S> If that isn't doable - signage. <A> Completely different idea <S> so I wanted to separate to a new answer. <S> There may already be features like this <S> I can't tell from the one photo. <S> Without trying to degrade the house or look tacky but imagine you're trying to make it look like an add-on. <S> You could put false pillars on the walls to make it feel more like a doorway/transition. <S> You could add an arch to the top with or w/o the sides. <S> You could have curtain/drapes that are always pulled to the side. <S> "STEP" in flashing red lights and someone will still miss it <S> , aim at the 90% that pays attention to transitions not the 10%. <S> Disclaimer: <A> Adding lights is probably more than enough, but might be objectionable to some occupants for aesthetic reasons. <S> Anyway, this is a long term hazard and anything battery operated is short term. <S> A better solution is to increase the contrast. <S> Since both surfaces are light colored, maybe a 5 or 8 cm (2 or 3 inch) black strip across the upper edge would provide enough warning? <S> Maybe prototype it with black duct tape or several strips of electrical tape? <A> If you're only worried about the step-up direction, create some contrast by darkening the vertical face under the lip. <S> As a prototype, some black tape would work. <S> If it looked good, then you could paint it. <A> Subtle: Get clear or color matching traction pad to span 80-100% of the width; use less than 100% to make a nice 1-2 inch border left,right,&front of the step. <S> The traction pad will subconsciously remind your mind there is a step there <S> whether you see it or feel it. <S> If you're more worried about night time, they have some with a mild nite-glow/glow-in-the-dark. <S> It's not going to illuminate the room, just a subtle glow that you'll barely notice otherwise; again, just enough for you to subconsciously know it is there. <A> I am adding a second answer since we did this on my steps. <S> We used stick night lights - no electricity needed. <S> They had a motion sensor. <S> You would just have to play with the motion sensor so that it came on when you wanted.
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Of course the lights could be house powered and unless your power is unreliable, that is probably good enough. I suggest you install a contrastive colored riser/toe kick and nosing. For obvious but subtle; one way or another you want to emphasize that it is a transition and there happens to be a step there instead of "hey look at this step." Stage the sides to make it more of a transition between rooms. The other option I would consider would be a minimalist, one-step handrail. If this property is used for commercial purposes, make sure you use some sort of sign and/or hand rail; check what is legally required for you to not be at fault for negligence.
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Why have cordless tools changed the battery style? I was looking for replacement batteries for my cordless tools (drill, light, sander) and have been unable to find any. My current battery is the style with a neck that inserts into the tool, but all the newer tools have batteries without a neck that just slides onto the tool. Why the change? <Q> The neck style battery pack typically held an extra 1-2 NiCad cells in that neck portion. <S> With the transition to higher voltages, they want to make at least some change in design so you can't use the wrong battery like @Henry Jackson stated. <S> But the main reason you don't see any is the way lithium-ion packs are constructed, yes they do still have a few battery packs that are round and are fully inserted but the majority of lithium-ion cells are designed rectangular, wide, and flat. <S> These stack better in a normal box form factor and the neck would not be used to store any extra cells. <S> Most tool companies are offering the same tools (same voltage mainly) that work with either NiCad or Li-ion. <S> The more rectangular the form factor takes the less space to make a mold and typically less plastic/material so without the advantage of using the neck to hold more cells, the inefficient neck form factor has bit the dust. <A> There have been a lot of changes in batteries for tools over the years. <S> Different chemistries, voltages, capacities. <S> Obviously the tool makers don't want you sticking a 20V lithium battery into an old 12V nickel-cadmium drill, so they make the shapes different. <S> Maybe some of the discount manufacturers try to turn over their battery types regularly to force you to by all-new, but the more professional lines like DeWalt and Makita tend to use the same battery for years. <S> I assume after a while an old style doesn't sell well <S> and then they discontinue it. <S> (It sounds like you may not have a choice, but if you need any more encouragement to switch to a new lithium battery system, consider that they charge very fast, provide full power right up until they die, and can survive many more charge cycles than older battery types.) <A> While I can't prove it, I always thought this change is because of the proliferation of many different types of battery power tools nowadays (drill, jigsaw, circular saw, light, impact drill, saber saw, vacuum cleaner etc.). <S> Other tools may not have well suitable handle for such a battery, while the cuboid format is pretty universal for attaching to tools. <S> Apart from that: if you can't get a suitable replacement battery, you can still: Renew <S> the cells inside your battery pack yourself <S> <S> – see these Instructables . <S> Or empty the cells from the battery pack and add a cord instead – see these Instructables . <S> For example, I used a broken spare battery pack for my Milwaukee 28 V tools to "add a cord" to them. <S> This allows me to power them directly off 2×12 V car batteries while living off the grid, and for much longer than with mobile battery packs.
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Back when battery power tools were basically just drills, the neck type batteries fitted them well because the handle would hold some extra battery cells.
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Why doesn't my garage door close unless I am holding down the button? When I push my inside of garage button for the door to close, the door attempts to go down, motor light flashes and door goes back up again. I had to keep holding the wall button for the door to actually go down and close. <Q> The garage door will automatically reverse if it encounters too much resistance or if the sensor beam is interrupted. <S> To check for resistance, start with the door closed and pull the red handle. <S> Then open and close the door. <S> The movement should be fluid with no tough spots. <S> If you encounter difficult spots, you likely have a bent track, a broken wheel, or a severe lack of track lubricant. <S> Call a professional. <S> If the door opens with the opener fine, but reverses almost immediately when you try to close it, then you likely have a problem with your sensor alignment. <S> One sensor should have a light on all the time. <S> This is the transmitter. <S> The other, your receiver, should light up when it has an unobstructed view of the invisible light beam the transmitter sends. <S> It's easy to bump a sensor and move it out of alignment. <S> Just bend it back in to position. <S> Use the light on the receiver to help you so that you don't have to try and close the door to check your adjustments. <A> I'd like to add to the thread <S> my experience/observation: <S> same situation - won't close unless you hold the inside button, 10 flashes as the error. <S> Both of my sensors "appeared" to be working. <S> That is, the amber emitter would cause the green receiver to light when I had them aligned, and the green receiver would go out if I blocked the beam, so as I said, it "appeared" to be working. <S> The cause was corrosion on the receiver wires. <S> Both wires were cut by a critter a few years ago. <S> I spliced them back but moisture and weather resulted in just enough resistance on the line to provide inconsistent feedback and trigger the safety override. <S> I cut out the bad copper and soldered a new splice which I sealed with liquid tape and all is well again. <S> In summary, If both sensors are lit and you get response from blocking the beam, check the green receiver wiring (the emitter would not have the same issue). <S> With a multimeter you could look for voltage fluctuation or resistance, or just visually inspect for breaks in the line insulation and black or green copper wiring. <S> It's much more likely the wire than the sensor so why waste the money? <A> I had this issue last week. <S> The lights on the sensor were fine. <S> The issue was finally traced to loose connections at the sensors. <S> Disconnected the sensors, re-stripped the wires and reconnected them. <S> Door closes fine now. <S> I think the sensors were working fine until the garage door starts moving, when the electrical supply to the sensors were getting interrupted due to faulty wiring. <A> 3 most common problems with garage doors that won’t close are: <S> The sensor is either blocked by an objectThe sensor caught some dirt. <S> The sensor is not aligned What to do when your garage door won't close <A> If the door can be reasonably easily opened and closed by hand, but the opener balks at closing the door, the tension setting probably needs to be increased. <S> See the installation manual for details how to adjust it. <S> Usually it is a nut inside the unit, or sometimes a thumbwheel. <A> When nothing here works...determine what is spoofing the auto reverse. <S> I have an insulated door. <S> Part of the sheeting over the insulation are peeling away due to excess heat (and kids pickng at it). <S> The flap of sheeting on the lower most panel was triggering he reverse when the door got to within an inch or two from closing. <S> Trimmed the flap of sheeting back and presto...worked every time. <A> Sensor lights were out (there is a green and red LED light on each sensor side). <S> I moved an extension ladder that must have "jiggled" the wires at the ceiling corner that powers the sensors. <S> I went up and " re-jiggled" the wires at ceiling and LED lights came on. <S> Garage door now shuts normally. <S> Try this if all else fails as in my case. <A> Both of my sensors were working (green receiver goes out only if beam blocked). <S> I noticed one light bulb blinked when closing door. <S> I decided to remove the bulb and give it a try. <S> Well, the door closes fine now. <S> I don't need the second light <S> so I don't bother to find out if it was the bulb or the connection on the opener that caused the problem on closing. <A> Try turning it off and back on again. <S> Seriously. <S> Both the red light and green light were always lit on my sensors. <S> Unplugging them from the power for a few seconds before plugging it back in did the trick.
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Besides @longneck's excellent points , if the garage door or opener is a new installation and has not worked before, it could be that the opener's internal "tension sensor" is not correctly set.
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What is the maximum angle I can set my window AC unit? We know an AC unit must be angled to allow runoff. But what is the maximum angle and what is the issue with having to large of an angle? I've seen people say the angle is "5/16" or "3/16" but this is nonsense as an angle is not a length. I am installing a window unit and would like to try and get the optimal angle if there is one. <Q> All the window air conditioning units I have looked at—a total of about six different models—had a drip basin which is tilted toward the outside. <S> Or if they have a drain hose, then the pan is tilted toward an exterior corner where the hose nipple is. <S> So leveling the bottom of the a/c should be the right thing to do. <A> Just has to be angled enough not to get water in your house. <S> The 3/16 to 5/16" is the difference in height from the inside to the outside. <S> That sort of difference seems about right to me. <A> You need some water to stay in so the fan can pick it up just a few drops at a time this allows internal parts not to overheat but to much water and <S> it will get in your home put a small level on the outside and just offset the bubble slightly <S> and you are done
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If it is tilted too far, that could cause water to accumulate in the wrong place and interfere with the condenser, or maybe just overflow onto the sill bypassing the drainage system altogether.
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How to integrate beams and venting with drywall? I have air vents and an I-beam right when you walk into my basement. My family is tall so I am not looking to box it like I normally would. I am going to hit everything with white paint. Problem is on the outer walls how do you "connect" the drywall to the I-beam and vent that run across? <Q> I did that in my basement, and a bit of caulk was all it needed between the sheetrock and metal. <S> FWIW, consider painting the I-beam a bold color. <S> As for the air vents, I'm not sure quite how that fits into the big picture. <S> Some drawings/photos may help here. <A> Interesting problem. <S> If you've got metal vent, and a steel <S> I-Beam, those will definitely move at different rates than drywall on wood framing. <S> Sounds like you need something flexible for the transition. <S> What about using self-adhering flexible membrane flashing material as (at least) part of the solution? <S> I know you can get flex membrane flashing with a white surface, but I don't know if any manufacturers offer a paintable product. <S> Also, I'm not sure how to make a smooth transition from the membrane to drywall, but it might be possible with some careful mudding. <S> Here's a discussion article that mentions many types. <S> Let us know what you end up doing? <A> Why can't you box it in and use 1/4" plywood for the bottom of the box? <S> (Plus if you're going to bump your head, better to be on some plywood and drywall than a steel beam.) <A> Normally ducting and I-beam are not more than two feet wide combined. <S> If the width is 24 inches or less then frame vertically from ceiling where the bottom of frame-wall is flush with the bottom of I-beam and ducting. <S> Fasten sheet rock to the bottom of the drop walls on each side of the ducting. <S> This way the thickness of the drywall will be the only additional drop.
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I'm not sure if I'm following all the details, but it sounds like one question is how do you finish the drywall around the I-beam where it will enter the sheetrock. Make it part of the "look". I haven't actually used membrane for this solution, but I am a big fan of the product for other purposes. That would only lower the ceiling height 1/4", which is not that much.
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How should I label and organize my home electrical circuits? I am looking to make the wiring updates in my home extremely simple to understand while doing so in a code-approved manner. I cannot find anything against wrapping a thin band of colored electrical tape around the outer sheathing on NM-B wire such as a small band of red tape around the yellow jacket of the wire below at each junction/fixture to help identify which circuit each wire belongs to. A colored electrical tape pack is what I was thinking of picking up: Basically, I was thinking of adding two thin colored bands to identify the main runs of the branch circuits (using up to six colors for each band: black, white, red, blue, green, and yellow). And then I was thinking of adding two more thin bands to identify the branch connections to receptacles off of the main runs. However, I am unsure if labeling the sets of 3 wires (for 12-2) with a couple small bands of electrical tape would be against code (such as wrapping the sheathing with green electrical tape since green is typically used to mark ground wires) or actually make it more confusing. Answers that include best (or typical) practices are very welcome (even if the typical practice is to not mark the wires at all). EDIT: While I agree with the update to the title to make the question a little more general, I am still interested getting an answer to my proposed solution about using colored electrical tape bands from the perspective of the NEC (2008 or later). I certainly appreciate the answers that suggest labels on the wires, but case in point, my hand writing is terrible and I think color is a lot easier to identify at a glance than trying to read little numbers. The way my home is currently wired with knob and tube inspired the thought because the original wiring truly was in an extremely structured, well-crafted manner and is really a work of art to look at (each hot wire for each branch circuit of the existing knob and tube wiring is a different color that is both easy to understand and follow throughout the house). I plan to create a full set of "blueprints" (in color with color-coded wiring) and keep an updated printed copy of the diagram with the electrical panel so I am still favoring the idea of color-coding the wires if it is NEC-compatible. <Q> I spent a couple hours this past winter mapping out my entire house. <S> The fields on my spreadsheet are as follows for each box in my house (lights, outlet, switch, garage opener, anything): <S> Panel Breaker (examples A1-10, B1-10) Drop # - the first box on the branch is simply labeled 1, second box 2 Notes - if I know how things are wired in the wall I will put a note like "wire goes straight up to attic from outlet" <S> Room of the outlet - each room with unique name (Bedroom 1, family room, den...) <S> Location of outlet in room - I use actual navigation directions and go from left to right on each wall. <S> So an example would be "West wall outlet #2" <S> - meaning there was outlet #1 to the left of that on the west wall. <S> What the outlet does. <S> Other notes - <S> I have aluminum in some of the house <S> so I marked these here and marked if I have an extra wire for fan. <S> I could see wrapping the branch with yellow tape with BRANCH written. <S> You could also give every wire a unique code A1-4 = branch off of panel A1 and outlet #4. <S> This becomes hard to conceptualize if your branches aren't daisy chained but still works with notes. <S> My wife thought I was nuts spending a few hours doing this <S> but I have already saved a ton of time. <S> If I need something off, I just pull up the spreadsheet. <S> Also this allowed me to transfer some of the outlets to other circuits or to new circuits - I had 4-5 circuits with way too much on them. <S> I am now down to 1 circuit that only has a little too much and would have never realized without the spreadsheet. <A> We replaced the main panel in our house a few years back. <S> Before removing the old wires, I wrapped a bit of masking tape around each Romex near the circuit breaker end with a note handwritten on it: NW bedroom, full bath, SW kitchen outlet, NW kitchen outlet, etc. <S> This made it quite easy to wire in the new panel and fill in the new panel's wiring label. <S> Three different city electrical inspectors had a look at it in the years since: one for the pre-panel switchover, one for reconnecting the meter, and one when we added a bathroom about two years later. <S> The masking tape is still on the wires. <S> Not one of the inspectors minded them in the least. <S> I should think electrical tape would be even more welcome. <S> It is commonly used in certain junction box applications. <S> All we care about is which wire in the panel goes where in the house. <A> As far as code compliance goes, you're fine. <S> If you wrap colored tape around individual conductors (wires), you may start confusing people. <S> Just make sure you use good quality tape.
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As long as you're only wrapping the tape around the outer sheathing, there is no problem. Some of that cheap crap tape could end up falling off in the future, which could lead to confusion and possibly injury and/or death. There is no marking on the remote ends of the wires.
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What is causing a cat urine smell in my bathroom? My bathroom has started smelling like cat urine. We have NO cats. I think the smell is coming from the shower drain. What could this smell be coming from and how do I get rid of it? <Q> If the toilet rocks or moves that will damage the seal and cause leaks. <S> Even if it was installed tight to the floor it is possible the seal (usually a wax ring) was not large enough, or was not replaced by a previous homeowner after removing the toilet. <S> Also check if the toilet is caulked to the floor, this should never be done. <S> It just traps leaks under the toilet where they will ruin the floor without you noticing. <S> Remove the toilet and inspect underneath. <S> If the floor isn't rotten and the flange is not broken replace the wax seal and remount. <S> Or hire a plumber to do the same. <S> Also even if you don't have cats the previous homeowner may have and moisture from showering is bringing out the smell. <S> It is common for cats to pee against the baseboards and the urine to seep under the flooring. <S> If water gets on the floor it will bring up the smell. <S> In one case I had to tear a room back to the studs to get rid of the odor. <A> We used to get strays hanging out under our house from time to time. <S> When it rained the moisture would bring out the smell even after they'd been gone for a while. <S> Check to see if the underfloor area is accessible to cats. <A> First check for leaks. <S> In my bathroom that smell was coming from either wet water-damaged plywood underneath a leaking sink or the wet water damaged vanity. <S> If nothing is leaking check your drain traps. <A> I found out it was wet MDF under my kitchen sink. <S> Sorry no cat pee just a chemical reaction. <S> Wet degrading wood. <S> Not sure how much of a health problem this is <S> but it cant be good. <A> It's wet towels ..... <S> my mother had this problem she had an empty end cabinet we would throw used towels in..... <S> no cats had ever been there I searched online until the answer....started putting wet towels in the laundry room spread out to dry no more cat pee smells.
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Look for leaks, the most likely culprit is a failed seal on the toilet. Think about where you would put a catbox and inspect and sniff carefully.
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Would providing shade for my air conditioner's condensor improve its efficiency? Our house has two A/C systems; one for the bedroom level, one for the remainder of the house. The compressor/consdensor units are outside the south side of the house, and in direct sun all day, now that a nearby tree has been removed. Would shading the units, perhaps with a small fence, improve their efficiency? I'm not (very) concerned with the look, as this side of the house is not visible from anywhere aside from our veggie garden. <Q> It helps for sure. <S> There have been a ton of studies done on this and I have read at least 10-11. <S> At one point in time I was going into a partnership for a "greening" business. <S> Your variance is somewhere between 1-15%. <S> There are a ton of variables. <S> Here is an OK study I read a few weeks ago from FSEC . <S> I personally don't like this study because they are first in a climate that doesn't cool well at night <S> and then they used young trees... <S> Variables <S> But if you have a 9 foot tree over the condenser in an open field then there is a very small volume of shaded air. <S> Once your condenser sucks in the shaded air then it gets the hot stuff and returns diminish. <S> So the first variable is shade volume. <S> With huge oak trees being optimal and anything less than that losing value all the way down to a bush. <S> Air temperature in shaded area. <S> This depends on what is under your tree (grass, rocks, dirt, water...), it depends on how many hours a day you get the shade, air flow, how close you are to house... <S> Air flow is huge. <S> The more wind you can push to the unit the more efficient it will be. <S> One of the things that people do that inhibits this is bushes right next to unit. <S> Obviously decreases air flow. <S> So the bigger tree you put there the better <S> but you also want to configure the trees so that the unit gets good air flow. <S> The price of a tree and your work will be returned for sure and could potentially have a major change on your bills - I could see $300-600 a year in warmer climates. <S> Also I think a small fence would have no to little impact (restricting air flow). <A> DMoore gives a good explanation and practical advice. <S> This is just a summary of the science side. <S> Heat is bad for an AC unit. <S> More heat, more work Heat gets transferred three ways radiation <S> convection <S> conduction <S> Radiation occurs when sunlight directly hits something (like the body of the unit) - shade reduces this. <S> Convection occurs when warm air flows over and through the unit - shade reduces this, but as DMoore points out, you need a lot of shaded air to make a major difference, not just a bit of shade directly over the unit. <S> Conduction occurs when something hotter (other than air) touches something cooler <S> - this is not a sgnificant factor in the AC analysis. <S> Of the three, convection is probably the most important. <S> See DMoore's discussion about how to handle this. <A> I've always thought so. <S> The goal of a/c is to warm up refrigerant (with heat from inside), pump it outside and release the heat. <S> The cooler the ambient outside, the faster the transfer will occur (as long as ambient is above the dew point, otherwise you might get icing).
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The shading of the air coming into condensor is super helpful.
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How can I remove oil stains from a concrete floor? I rented a home, and the garage floor is concrete. It looks like the previous owner had a small car that dripped more oil than it retained. It has been parked on multiple spots, so there are seriously large oil spill spots all over the concrete floor, and they have been there for many months (at least). I am storing my bicycle and motorbikes in the garage. Oil is very bad for you when it gets on the tires. I do not want to have accidents because of this. I think I have the the following options: Clean the floor: The stains are not fresh, so kitty litter will not work. What chemicals do I use? Paint the floor: Will the paint stick? Put down car mats: This seems like a decent option, except I will need to get multiple mats and cut them down so they do not slide around Put down interlocking garage mats: Most sensible option, except it is really expensive. I would love to hear about your experiences and suggestions in this regard. What are good ways of handling my problem? <Q> Clay Absorbent. <S> This stuff is available at most auto parts repair stores. <S> Sometimes it is available at big box stores. <S> It is NOT the same as cat litter although it looks strikingly similar. <S> The resemblance is so close that "kitty litter" is the 'street' name for this product. <S> For example, my father and I moved a broken 2.5 hp motor over a concrete walkway in a plastic tub. <S> At some point the load became unstable and the engine tilted enough to force us to drop the tub. <S> In doing so, we streaked the walkway with oil approximately 2" wide and 6" long. <S> Since I was away from home <S> and he did not have any clay absorbent on hand, I promptly drove to purchase some and placed the product according to the manufacturers directions. <S> After the second application was swept up, I made a third application and ground the product into the concrete with my shoe and left it to sit until the next rain washed it away (not recommended, but hey the walkway was pristine beforehand <S> and my dad has a low carbon footprint). <S> To this day, there is a spot on the walkway that is cleaner than the rest. <S> I am not exaggerating in the least when I say that the entire section now needs the ground-in-and-washed-off treatment to help minimize the white spot left behind where there was a dark black oil spot before. <S> Two applications should do for what you need. <S> Skip the ground in trick unless you promise to recover the waste water ;) <S> Edit:// Just read where you said spots are old and kitty litter will not work. <S> Try the clay absorbent. <S> It is about 100% more effective than cat litter on any day. <S> Also, if it does not come up, leave it for a night or two. <S> Other than that, (using a test spot!!!) <S> dampen the concrete with fresh oil (detergents good...) <S> then place the oil dry over it and leave for at least a day. <S> If all else fails, grind it in! <A> This one is simple, perhaps surprisingly. <S> Buy a gallon can of mineral spirits (paint thinner), NOT the water-based type, but real MINERAL SPIRITS. <S> Taking whatever reasonable precautions are necessary to protect your eyes & hands (I personally feel comfortable working with bare hands), wet down a rag thoroughly with it and scrub the floor. <S> The mineral spirits will thin the oil stain and lift most of it to the surface where any absorbent (kitty litter, sawdust, paper towels, rags) can pick it up, and the rest will tend to sink deeper into the concrete where it'll be nearly invisible. <S> Naphtha will also work, but will evaporate off more quickly (perhaps too quickly, leaving the job half-finished). <S> Kerosene will do the same job, but will smell worse than the mineral spirits. <S> DO NOT use gasoline or acetone. <A> You may be able to get it pulled up with coarnstarch. <S> then spray the oil stain with hot water, squirt with Dawn dishwashing liquid, and add more hot water to create suds. <S> Next, scrub the oil stains with a nylon bristle brush.
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However, clay absorbent is far superior in its ability to remove oil from concrete. Xylol will also evaporate off too quickly.
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What material is allowed for a furnace room ceiling material? What types of material, other than drywall, are acceptable by Ohio HVAC Code for the ceiling of a small furnace room which will: Have return air ducts (only) passing through it to attic space. Butt up against a brick chimney on one edge (B-Vent installed in the flue) <Q> Definitely don't use WOOD as suggested by DMoore! <S> Yes, consult your local Ohio codes. <S> I wish this would get certified, as it's a much better idea than drywall in the first place! <S> This is NOT Chinese drywall, which is just poor quality unregulated imported garbage. <S> A reputable MGO board company will probably have certifications soon for this type of installation. <S> At least be glad that the old asbestos board, which was used extensively decades ago, is gone, after the medical concerns surrounding that material arose. <A> Paint it black, use left over wood flooring, plywood is fine too. <A> Any material you use will need to be fireproof, since it contacts the brick chimney. <S> Failing that, you potentially assume liability for a house fire later down the line.
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You can't count on the existing furnace to be the last one ever installed in that location, so any installation you do now will have to be safe for the next furnace, too... and since you can't know anything about the next furnace's specifcations, you need to take every reasonable precaution now. A new material, probably not rated or considered in Ohio code, but used extensively outside the US, is MGO board, which is fireproof, waterproof, mold proof...
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How can I connect a portable propane bottle to a tankless hot water heater? I'm looking at a tankless hot water heater (Rinnai V65EP) with a 3/4" NPT propane input. The manual says that a 1/2" propane feed is acceptable if it is relatively short. Required gas supply pressure is 8.0 ‐ 13.5 inch W.C. I am planning on putting a dedicated 40lb (10gal) propane bottle right next to the water heater. The propane line will only be a few feet long, and the water heater will be the only appliance drawing from this tank. Is this a workable plan? What regulator and other equipment should I install between the tank and the heater? Installation manual: http://www.rinnai.us/documentation/downloads/U307-1120.pdf <Q> One major problem is that most propane regulators are intended for small appliances, mostly less than 75,000 BTUs/hr typical of an outdoor grill. <S> The Rinnai V65EP can use up to 150,000, so a regulator designed for a little more than that would be the desired fit. <S> Shopping around, I notice many don't say what their maximum flow rate is, and of those which do , it is hard to find a "low pressure" (corresponding to less than 13.5" water column) in that range. <S> Here are a few I could find after several minutes searching: <S> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Regulator-Stainless-Steel-Hose-Type-1-LP-Gas-Grills-Parts-21-BBQ-Low-Pressure-/261136984141#vi-content <S> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Propane-Regulator-POL-LP-Gas-Low-Pressure-grill-BBQ-smoker-stove-Parts-/251219429378#vi-content <S> Lowes has a two stage regulator capable of up to 200,000 btus . <S> It is inexpensive at $40. <A> I found this site and this product to make the connection. <S> It satisfies the requirements for low pressure (under 14 WC), high flow (117,000 btuh). <S> http://www.tejassmokers.com/lowpressureregulators.htm part <S> #108053P-60 <A> Using a small portable tank will most likely create problems when using a tankless water heater. <S> Many things come in to play with your scenario. <S> Distance, pipe size, total BTU of ALL appliances, and tank size. <S> Most propane tankless W/H are between 120,000-199,000 BTU's so using a small container as mentioned, your going to have a volume and flow issue in a short period of time. <S> I've been in propane service for 25 years and almost always I install a dedicated 2nd stage regulated at the W/H. <S> As you consume the vapor from the small tank, there isn't enough wetter space(liquid) to make up for what the W/H is consuming, so you'll get an ice build up at the bottom of the small tank <A> We camp at a cabin that has a Paloma <S> so I used the following to hookup the Paloma Tankless Water Heater to the 20lb propane tank. <S> Camco screws right into the tank and connected the Universal Kit to connect to the Paloma. <S> Use PTFE Thread Seal Tape on all connections except the hand thread Tank Connector. <S> Universal Kit comes with tape, but it's not labeled as rated for gas <S> and it's white. <S> Heard the yellow is the true gas rated tape, so I bought it separately. <S> Test connections with soapy water. <S> Make sure Camco vent is pointed down. <S> Just for shower use, so did not see ice up on the tank. <S> Camco 2 Stage Regulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024E6TX2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Universal Gas Appliance Hookup Kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LY9SZ82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Gas PTFE Thread Seal Tape https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKBXCE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I am hooking up a Bosch 520 on demand to a 20# propane tank.
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Can you use drywall mud on hardiboard? I am looking at painting hardiboard or mudding and then painting. Is that OK? <Q> I don't see why not. <S> Certainly the flex of Hardiboard is less than sheetrock, so there should be no issues with flexing causing cracking of dried mud. <S> But why would you want to? <S> Hardiboard is at least three times the cost of sheetrock and harder to install. <A> This is from their install guide: Finishing with Paint, Wallpaper or Texture Painting or Wallpapering <S> If painting, apply a drywall primer suitable for high-moisture areas, as recommended by the paint manufacturer and paint HardieBacker board as you would drywall. <S> If wallpapering, prime surface of HardieBacker board with a primer suitable for high-moisture areas as recommended by the wallpaper manufacturer. <S> Texturing Texture can be applied to HardieBacker board in the same way as drywall. <A> I coated my stuccoed window casings ( <S> the recess from interior wall to window surface was stucco over block) 3 years ago and have not had problems yet. <S> Originally sanded smooth it still looks perfect. <S> wallyk said it best, the flex in the substrate, whatever that is, will rule over time. <S> No flex, no problem. <A> I used dry wall mud then latex paint on cement hardibacker behind my wood stove <S> .(stove was 14-16” away, I know that’s close). <S> It stuck very well even with taped joints and looked good however The heat over a number of years(7) caused the mud and paint to chip and fleck off. <S> I’m wondering if a sealer like for concrete floors, before painting, would make it stick better, in heat applications.
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I don't see why not if the area stays dry. Hardiboard has even more texture than sheetrock for mud adhesion and at least as good of moisture absorption, so mud should adhere quite well.
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Why would all pizeoelectric plugs spark when igniting just one gas stove burner? When trying to ignite a single burner on a 2012 model gas stove, all 5 of the piezoelectric plugs start to spark. Once the chosen burner lights and I adjust the flame all the plugs stop sparking. Questions Is this something awry or is this typical behavior of a gas stove? What are some probable explanations for such behavior? <Q> Note that this applies to stovetops that do not have a standing pilot light. <S> The oven often will have its own ignitor that operates independently of the stovetop. <S> The reason for this may be in order to reduce the complexity of the stovetop design. <S> With all of the sparkers running in parallel, only one set of electronics is needed for all of the burners, instead of each one having its own electronics (or requiring additional relays). <S> Stoves will often come with schematics showing their wiring, and you could consult these to see how your particular stove is designed. <S> Note that it is perfectly fine to spark already lit burners <S> (though this will slightly reduce the lifespan of the electrode as it'll erode more quickly at high temperatures), and burners that are turned off (since there's no gas available, it'll have no effect). <S> There's also a bit of a a safety factor involved. <S> If you have a failed ignitor (blocked with crud or broken), the plume of gas will be ignited by the other burner before it fills up more of the room, thereby creating a smaller fireball than it would have otherwise. <A> My opinion on this is - If the igniter for the burner your trying to use is defective, then one of the secondary (other) igniters will ignite the gas, so you're not just filling the air with gas. <S> I could be wrong about that, but that's what seems logical. <S> I have a 5 burner system, that when any burner is selected, the center burner (central to all other 4 burners) always runs it's igniter with any other burner being started. <S> So that was my conclusion, that its a secondary backup igniter to avoid a huge gas buildup from a burner that is not igniting. <A> It is far simpler to build a single ignition system which is activated by every burner control knob (which are trivially wired in parallel) and has only one output which is routed to all sparkers. <S> An already lit burner receiving sparks is no problem. <S> But having 4+ ignition systems—or switching logic and electronics to accomplish the same thing—is unnecessary complexity.
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Yes, it is a typical for the gas stovetops to light all of the burners even when only one is needed.
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How do I keep heavy rain from draining into my house? The west side of our house is 2 stories high. We have 3 window wells on that side of the house. When we get heavy rains from the west blowing against the house, lets say 3 inches in an hour. The water can't run away quickly enough and it runs into the basement. My wife wants to put another gutter on that side just above the basement windows to move that rain away. Any other ideas? <Q> I had a similar problem and added a length of corrugated tubing to my existing downspouts. <S> What was happening is that the water came down the downspouts too close to the house. <S> It did not have time to soak into the ground and pooled around the foundation. <S> So using some black corrugated pipe and the right adapters got that water 5-10 feet from the house. <S> It is very low cost, just get some of the black pipe, the right adapters to attach to your downspouts, and sheet metal screws. <A> Diversion of water as discussed in other answers is a great idea. <S> You may also consider window well covers <S> They come in a variety of shapes and sizes and divert the bulk of precipitation away from the well and about 2 feet away from the foundation - often enough to avoid seepage. <S> P.S. <S> They also are a safety feature, reducing the risk of kids/pets falling into the wells. <A> Three inches per hour! <S> That's close to <S> a lake being dropped on your house! <S> A gutter above the windows would help. <S> So would an awning. <S> Both have disadvantages, like limiting the light into the windows. <S> Does heavy rain occur frequently? <S> Or is it just during, say, a hurricane? <S> Maybe you could put a big tarp—supported like a tent over the west wall— during a storm? <S> A more permanent idea would be to extend the roof out and make a very deep eave. <S> Addendum: <S> What do you think of this kind of solution? <S> : Of course it should extend well beyond the window wells and by putting it somewhat high, you could balance the amount of light between summer and winter, so that high summer sun puts the windows in shade and low winter sun streams right in.
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Since this is the high open side of the house, extreme eaves might help and might look quite cool, but might introduce structural issues in the case of high winds.
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Do I have the right tools for drilling granite? What I'm doing : taking rounded granite stones and cutting the bottoms flat with an angle grinder and drilling 2-3" the other side for a flower, pen, etc. (3/8") What I'm using : Bosch multi purpose drill bit (3/8") and a Makita 6A 5/8" hammer drill Question : It seems like it's taking forever to drill the hole. Is the hammer drill or bit not suitable for the task? I've been at it for about 10 minutes and I'm about 1/2" into the rock: is this normal? <Q> Definitely using the wrong drill bit. <S> You should be using a masonry bit, which is designed for drilling into concrete, masonry, and stone. <S> It has a different tip than a regular wood/metal bit. <A> There are expensive ones which you do not need this unless you are doing this daily. <S> You can get one for much less at the big box or cheap hardware store. <S> You don't need to have a wet drill but someone spraying water will help - my son uses a spray bottle and keeps squirting while I cut. <S> Also you do not use a hammer drill. <S> You are lucky your pieces haven't cracked. <S> Only other tip I can give is you need to go in a a slight angle and straighten it out once you get a solid footing on one side. <S> Practice makes perfect. <A> I have been drilling 1" diameter holes to a depth of 6" in solid granite. <S> I have been using carbide tipped SDS MAX masonry bits in a Makita HR4013c SDS drill. <S> These holes are drilled in 50 seconds. <S> I am drilling the holes to prepare for splitting the rocks, using feathers and wedges. <S> I have not tried diamond tipped bits yet, because the carbide drills are cost effective for my use.
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You should be using a diamond wet hole bit.
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Why did I feel an electric current when touching my light switch? While reaching behind a desk in my office, I leaned against the wall and felt a pinch on my shoulder. I realized I was leaning on the lower screw of the light switch and thought it had a metal burr or something sticking out. I touched the screw with my hand and felt electric current flow through my hand. I tried it again a few minutes later and felt no current. I'm going to call an electrician ASAP but was curious, what could be causing this? My house is 58 years old and the wiring is probably that old as well. <Q> I have had this happen when touching two items that were both grounded, but not bonded properly. <S> I used to get it when touching any cable tv coax cables in the house. <S> If I touched the cable and anything connected to the electrical ground I would get a tingling feeling. <S> Sometimes a painful one. <S> This happens because ground isn't an absolute voltage. <S> Ground at my electrical panel and ground on the pole the cable company used differ by enough to be felt. <S> This can be dangerous if there is a big enough difference. <S> Check that all cables for TV and phone and such are properly grounded. <A> There are (at least) three possibilities: Static electricity. <S> Current flow to something grounded Capacitive flow. <S> Sparking to a properly grounded electrical box is to be expected. <S> Static charge can be built up and stored on your body in many way, like rolling acrylic wheels of a desk chair across the floor. <S> Or walking on a carpet. <S> For there to be current flow, there would have to be a potential. <S> then an electrical path exists through you. <S> If you are not grounded, like when you repeated touching the screw, there is nothing to feel. <S> A capacitive path is even less likely than the second possibility. <S> It is current flowing each a.c. cycle back and forth and stored in a conductive object. <S> If you are sensitive enough, you might be able to feel it. <S> However, if you use a less sensitive part of your body, then maybe you wouldn't. <S> Electrical sensitivity could well vary millimeter by millimeter across a fingertip. <S> This explanation also requires that there be an (erroneous) potential on the light switch screw. <S> If the second or third situations exist, there is a wiring fault, so it is good an electrician will be checking it. <S> Just thought of another one: <S> A fourth possibility is that there is a strong radio transmitter near by. <S> The capacitance of your body is more of a factor at higher frequency. <S> Maybe you would feel it sometimes but not other times because the transmitter is not continuously on. <S> There isn't really much to do about it. <A> that age home probably does not have ground rods. <S> those days grounds and neutrals tied together in main panel. <S> ccode says two 8' less than ten feet apart tied together then connected to ground strap (existing or added) in main panel. <S> then if need beseparate neutral and grounds in panel. <S> doing all this with main circuit breaker off!!!white neutrals connected to service bare cable.
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It is possible (though unlikely) that the light switch is mis-wired and presents a potential to the screw. Most everyone is familiar with static electricity I think. The cable company hadn't installed a proper ground to the water pipes. It stands to reason that if huge sparks occur at, say, 200,000 volts, that a small version could occur at 120 volts using your body as a capacitor. After being discharged, if you don't build up another charge, then there is nothing to discharge, so you don't feel anything. If you touch it while also touching something grounded like the desk, a land-line phone, etc. I am only aware of it under high voltage situations, such as this video of a flying helicopter being bonded to high voltage .
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Is there a way to get an oil stain off painted drywall? Somehow oil or something got splashed on the painted drywall and now there are two stains present. I was wondering what tips people have to attempt to remove the stain, or is the simple solution just a repaint job? Salad/cooking oil of some kind. <Q> If it is a lot of oil you may need more than paint. <S> If nothing comes through then just repaint over the drylok. <S> If you see any sort of oil coming through - even a tiny bit - then I would skimcoat the area with drywall mud. <S> Then repaint after that. <S> I have personally tried to repaint over oil stains totally wasted my time, noticing the same oil coming through a few days later on new paint job. <S> I am sure this has to do with what kind of oil, how much, and the paints you use <S> (oil based paint will hid this better than latex). <A> If that doesn't do it, add a little dish soap and water and scrub vigorously, then rinse and wipe dry. <S> Water won't harm the wall or paint if it is only done occasionally. <S> If, after letting the area dry well and oil is still visible, the next level of escalation is TSP , available from paint and hardware stores, larger grocery stores, and others. <S> If that doesn't do it, priming and repainting is called for. <A> There ar e numerous grease cutting detergents, such as Fantastik, that are often very effective at removing both colored and clear stains from painted surfaces. <S> While these can be sprayed on, I prefer to test by putting a little on a soft cloth and rubbing gently. <S> If more is needed, and if there is no sign of paint coming off on the cloth, you can try a direct spray and remove immediately. <S> Next level is to spray, allow to sit for a minute or two, then rub. <S> Although these cleaners claim to not need rinsing, I always do. <S> If that fails, you are probably in for a more serious scrub that may require a repaint. <S> If that is the case, I would prime with a stain blocking primer. <S> Like Kilz or you risk a bleed through of the stain. <A> For small spots and ink or crayons, once you have removed as much as you can, allow to dry. <S> Hit it with "White Out" <S> Nothing dries faster and stuff doesn't have a chance of bleeding through. <S> I used it The first time out of desperation. <S> It's been a real handy <S> go to as it's cheep <S> and I always have it around. <S> It works great on small jobs.
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If the paint is good quality latex or (any type of oil paint), try wiping the stain off with a dry paper towel or absorbent cloth. I would go over the area with something like drylok and let it sit for a week or two.
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Confused on what AC Unit to purchase and install? I am replacing a 30 year old AC unit and I have had 4 estimates. 2 of the 4 people did not even take any measurements and the other two took a lot of measurements. I am leaning towards the ones that took measurements, but they are giving me two options. I live in Florida. Here are the two options: 3.5 tons 13 seer straight cool 3.5 tons 13 seer heat pump What is the difference between the above two? Does anyone know some important questions I could ask the installers to see which one maybe more qualified or knowledgeable in installing the unit I found paperwork on the house and it indicates that a 3.5 ton was installed in 1984. The two people that did not measure apparently were salesmen. One from sears told me this: OK great give me a call or send me an email when you ready. You currently have a 2 Ton and I can see going to above 1/2 ton more or a max 1 Ton more not 1 1/2 Tons more. I will install what you want, and our system and service will be better than any company out there. When you contract with Sears you don't get a lot of plastic and thin metals you get a good quality system that will last. I don't understand how Sears can tell me I have a 2 ton when I have a 3.5 ton. Something smells fishy here? <Q> The heat pump can move heat indoors to outdoors ("air condition") as well as from outdoors to indoors (heating). <S> The cooling only unit can only air condition. <S> If the house already has heating or you rarely need heat, you can save some money by getting a cooling-only unit, and maybe supplement that with portable electric heaters as needed. <S> As to brand comparisons, I strongly recommend you review the Consumer Reports reader reliability report of air conditioners and heatpumps : that can be done online by paying a fee, or visiting a library. <S> As for some installers carefully measuring and the others not, the latter <S> could be fine if your dwelling is not especially unique: an experienced installer has run the numbers so many times that they know what the result is. <S> That experience is helped by there being a coarse choice of capacities: 2 ton, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 5, 6, 7.5, 10, 12.5, etc. <S> On the other hand, not measuring could be a sign of an unknowledgeable installer. <S> Do they also propose a 3.5 ton unit? <S> As far as questions to ask, I like to elicit being assured that if anything goes wrong for X years, they will fix it for free. <S> If they can say so confidently, that is a very good sign that they don't think anything will go wrong. <S> It might be useful to ask an installer why they choose 3.5 tons <S> and not 3 or 4. <S> There is a certain degree of assumption about worst case and average case conditions. <S> If the a/c can't quite keep up on the 5 hottest days that is one thing, but if it can't keep up on 30 of them, that is quite a different matter. <S> Likewise, an oversized system can chill the air so much that it doesn't have to run much, making the air stagnant and possibly muggy. <S> Questions asking about how they balance those factors are good for you to understand and for the installer to reflect upon. <A> Differences: none and probably made by the same, or comprable, manufacturer.13 SEER is the lowest efficiency HVAC system a contractor can install. <S> There are much better systems out there that would significantly reduce your electric bill. <S> 2 ton or 3 1/2 ton? <S> there is a nameplate on the outdoor unit that will have a model number. <S> Something like xxx24xxx etc,. <S> the 24 means 24,000 BTU/hr or 2 tons (12,000 BTU/hr per ton). <S> I have a freind that has a variable speed system the runs on low speed all the time <S> and he has a $90 electric bill, in FLORIDA! <S> Do your homework. <A> I sell Ameristar and have for several years. <S> Very good equipment almost no warranty work ever needed. <S> The problem with both Ameristar and Goodman is that anyone that has a licsence can buy them at the local wholesale shop, <S> that doesn't mean they know what they are doing when it comes to installing them <S> ..trust me when I say there is a reason that I get paid 80 bucks an hour to fix those screw ups. <S> Get someone that makes their living in HVAC not a buddy that used to do HVAC or a fresh grad from a trade school or a guy that works as an installer for a plumber that a buddy knows. <S> Be sure your contractor can and does do warranty work on the brand <S> you buy,,,what <S> ever that brand may be. <A> I have installed Goodman for years with hardly any problems. <S> The warranties are very good (10 year parts and compressor) plus you can purchase a labor warranty. <S> I warranty my labor for a year after installation. <S> Also if you need parts after the manufacturer warranty they are less expensive than most other brands. <S> It does depend on the installer. <S> If Goodman is installed right, you should not have problems.
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A lot depends on your installer and his competence.
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Why did I lose power to half the house when the breakers did not trip? Using a voltage detector I determined that three breakers in the panel are not conducting voltage, yet they are fully on (not tripped). Thinking they were bad, I replaced a double throw 15 amp and a double throw 20 amp in the box. Flipped them on, still no power coming out of the new breakers. What could cause this? <Q> First, do the easy-to-check steps: does a device that should be on still work? <S> Is the "on" switch on? <S> Is it plugged in? <S> (Children are often noted for unexpectedly changing these.) <S> If the device is plugged in somewhere else, does it work? <S> Does a portable device known to work properly suddenly not work in the alleged "failed" outlet? <S> Next, are you sure <S> the breakers have not tripped? <S> Many manufacturers build them so that they do not visibly change when tripped. <S> To be sure, turn the lever all the way off and then back on. <S> Three circuits! <S> There is very little in common such that only three circuits with three separate breakers are all affected. <S> Maybe there are more? <S> Are there any other circuits which are on the same bus in the breaker panel also not working? <S> That would indicate a bus being disconnected, probably by a loose wire inside the panel. <S> A visual inspection with the panel cover off might be helpful. <S> Also possible—maybe probable—is that some neutral wires have come loose in the panel. <S> Turn off the main breaker and give all the wires a wiggle, being very careful not to touch near the service wires or where they connect to the main breaker. <S> Maybe something changed recently?: <S> Electrical work, ground work, utility work. <A> I just had the same problem. <S> The power company came out and discovered their line went bad underground, and only 1 of the 2 cables coming into the house had power at the meter. <A> The breakers are 240 VAC double pole breakers. <S> If you put a voltmeter on the 2 wires, do you read 220-240 VAC? <S> If you put a voltmeter from either of the breaker wires to ground or neutral, do you get 115 VAC? <S> When you say no power coming out <S> do you mean the equipment connected to that outlet doesn't work? <S> Even if the voltage is correct? <S> Look at the connection between the breaker and the panel bus (how it plugs in to the bus). <S> I recall a time when a 2-pole breaker was not contacting both panel legs (the metal bus, there are 2 of them for each side of the 240VAC, 120VAC on each bus). <A> Have you reset your main breaker? <S> (At the top?)
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I'm betting one half of your main breaker is tripped.
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What type of insulation has the highest R value per inch? I am trying to find the best insulation for my apartment. The limitation is that space between the drywall and the ceiling is 1/2". I live on the top floor of my building. <Q> Last time I checked, polyisocyanurate has the best insulation value per inch (R-6.5) of all the conventional building insulation products, and it is available in 1/2" sheets. <A> Likely the best insulator that you could use would be a vacuum. <S> The panel would get you to at least R-20, and probably higher. <S> The material that makes the most sense for you to use is polyisocyanurate. <S> At 1/2 in thickness, it will provide approximately R-3.2. <S> Be sure to seal between the boards, as air leaks can cause quite substantial heat loss. <A> Silica Aerogel products should beat polyisocyanurate; 10.3 per inch in commercially-available products. <S> Polyisocyanurate's performance decreases over time ; The manufacturers and the NCRA factor this into the R-Value of Polyisocyanurate products differently.
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You can purchase "vacuum insulating panels", but they will be difficult to install, expensive, and might end up being too thick. Vacuum Insulating Panels can use Aerogels as a filler, so you still get about R9 even if you destroy the vacuum with a nail or screw.
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How do I drill holes for "cam nuts"? The manuals I've seen for (cheaper) furniture refers to a cam nut and a cam bolt. Examples of them can be seen for purchase on Amazon . I've recently decided I'd like to build my own desk and believe these would be a good means to allow future disassembly of the desk. Is there a reason to not use cam nuts/bolts in my own furniture? I'm surprised how little info I'm finding on DIY'ing with them. And what tool would I use to drill the hole for the cam nut? <Q> A frequently used bit is a Forstner style bit, which drills (nearly) flat bottomed holes. . <S> For the smaller sizes (< 1/2 inch, <13mm) , a brad point bit is also usable and also (nearly) flat bottomed. <S> Because these bits are minimally guided by a central drill point, use in a drill press is recommended (to prevent sideways drift). <S> Careful use freehand can also work. <S> Go slowly at the start, until the full circumference is inscribed, then higher pressure can be used. <A> and there's not as much opportunity to correct errors. <S> However, being able to easily disassemble the furniture may be a very real benefit, especially if the piece is large or you intend to move it frequently. <S> You should be careful to design the item so that there is not too much stress on the cam lock joint itself. <S> E.g. if you're building a desk, you do not want the legs held in place by a single cam lock joint. <S> You might consider using screws for the more important joints and then just using the cam-locks to keep the larger pieces together. <S> (If you're building a desk with drawers on the left and right side, each drawer unit could be assembled permanently and then connected to the table top with cam locks.) <A> You'd want to use a spade bit of the appropriate size for the nut. <S> While not completely necessary, using a drill press will help get a consistent depth and angle. <S> If you will need to disassemble your furniture then they are a good choice but definitely not as strong as a permanent joint.
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Cam nuts / "knock-down furniture" will not be as sturdy as permanent joints and will be a little trickier to construct, since the alignment needs to be just right
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