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How can I power multiple raspberry pi around the house? I am planning to power multiple Raspberry Pi 's around the house. Some will be security cameras, one will be a media player connected to TV and another one will manage home network and maybe a website or something. I have phone and cable-TV cables running through walls to rooms and to the living room. I was thinking about replacing these with ethernet cables by attaching ethernet cables from one side and pulling the original cables (in this case phone or cable TV) out from the other side. I won't need the phone (as we are not going to use land lines) but I might also insert a new phone cable to have them for a potential use in the future. But that is not the point. As I am going to bringing ethernet (Cat6) to raspberries, I was thinking about using power over ethernet (PoE) , which is an awesome technology, to spare 5-6 separate power adapter for raspberries. However, PoE ends up being more expensive than I thought. Switches are 5-6x more expensive. Standard PoE modules to extract energy to raspberries are also expensive (I will need 5 of them). There are however DIY plans , but they are not the exact PoE standard, which is a minus. Buying multiple injectors is not a solution either. Then again I have a mess of cables and adapters. My current plan and idea is to have a 48V DC power source next to the main switch . I need to distribute ethernet cables from there anyway. I could simply distribute 48V DC power with 2 extra copper cables (self soldered on a board to distribute the output to each raspberry) wrapped and nicely taped around each CAT6 cable. On the raspberry side, I can use a voltage regulator to bring it down to 5V. This can then be connected to raspberry with a micro USB interface. This way I can provide gigabit connection with a relatively cheap switch and power with a single power supply. With 48V, resistance in the cables will not be an issue over ~10 meters. My only concern is to have 48V running close (taped from outside) to Cat6 inside the walls! Is it a fire hazard? Does this affect data transmission? Aren't shielded cables protected from such an effect? Are there any better options, which I did not consider? EDIT: I ended up buying a 8 port switch with 4 ports of PoE. I have found some good deals on active PoE splitters. And all together they work great! <Q> First of all you don't need Cat 6 for Raspberry Pi's Cat 6 supports gigabit and the Pi only supports 100M, so I assume you are running cat 6 for future upgrades. <S> Fundamentally your plan should work with a few caveats listed below. <S> The Cat6 is deferentially signaled meaning it shouldn't care about having a dc power line very close and at 48V the current is going to be pretty low so it really shouldn't be a problem. <S> Make sure you don't use a linear regulator to power the raspberry <S> pi's it will be ludicrously inefficent, get very hot, and negate the "low current" comment from above. <S> Really this is an electronics question, I would ask at http://electronics.stackexchange.com <A> I installed a non POE outdoor camera at a location on our property that doesn't have easy access to an outlet. <S> The solution I came up with was to run the camera via POE with a POE to USB Splitter. <S> A quick web shopping outlet search led me to these: They are pretty cheap, and come in a variety of configurations / flavors. <S> I opted for removable USB female adapter, but there are versions that have built in Micro USB plugs. <S> My Setup: <S> Indoors <S> [Wall outlet -> POE Injector] - <S> > 50 ft Cat 6 Ethernet Cable -> <S> [POE Spliter -> Micro USB Cable - <S> > Camera] <S> Outdoor (in Plastic Project Box) <A> If you are going to spend the money on the CAT6, why not go for the PoE Switch? <S> I found this one at Amazon, which is not that expensive and would give you what you're trying to accomplish with room to grow. <S> Shoot, at that price I may get one myself.
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I could see this easily being implemented using a POE Switch, and routing Ethernet to where needed.
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How do I install an insteon light switch where wire colors don't match? Electrical noob here. I know enough to turn off the breaker. I've read a couple of other answers and want to get a second opinion. I have three wires coming out of the existing switch socket, 2 blacks and a stripped copper. The Insteon switch has a black, red, white, and stripped copper. Obviously stripped copper to stripper copper for ground, but I've gone through a few combinations of the other lines and haven't gotten the thing to work. If I wire the Insteon-white line to either black, and Insteon-black to the other black, the switch comes online but doesn't turn the light on. If I connect Insteon-red to a black, and Instead-black to the other black, the switch never powers up. If I understand one of the other posts on smart switches here... (specifically Why would a light switch be wired with the neutral wire?, I believe this is what I need to do - and what I'm looking for a 2nd opinion on. First, not knowing which of my wall blacks are load and line (remember every project is an opportunity to buy a new tool!)... Connect Insteon-red to let's call it Wall-Black-1 Connect Insteon-black & Insteon-white to Wall-Black-2 (3 wires in the twisty thing) If the switch doesn't power up, then I've connected those to line instead of load and just swap the Wall Blacks around. Advice? Am I on track? <Q> This gave me what I needed to match the diagrams on the Insteon sheet, the unit is now connected as diagrammed and functioning as intended. <A> On your switch that you bought the Black is the Line (Power coming in), the Red is the Load (Power to the Light), the White (which you do not have) is the Neutral and the bare copper wire is the ground. <S> Insteon used to sale a 2-wire kit but the product is now unavailable. <S> You are going to need to get neutral down to light switch(12/3 Romex) or look at something that will work with what you have. <A> The white wire from the Insteon is the neutral and needs to be attached to a neutral wire in that wall gang box. <S> But if you look in the back of the box you will see a few white wires capped off if your house was built in the 1970s or later. <S> Plug the Insteon white neutral into that white bundle. <S> The hot wire (which you will determine by using a voltage tester (cheap at Home Depot) will attach to the black wire of the insteon. <S> The wire going from one box to the other (traveller get's capped in both boxes since that is done wirelessly with Insteon's. <S> Page 11 on insteon's instructions has a diagram on how to connect a three way switch: http://cache.insteon.com/documentation/2477D-en.pdf
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As suggested by Speedy Petey, I poked around further into the back of the wall box and it turns out there was in fact, some white wire. Most likely, the old light switch you are replacing doesn't currently use a neutral wire.
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Is wood flooring in bathroom a right decision? We have decided to install wood flooring in bathroom. Is it a right decision?? <Q> I'd like to suggest an alternative: There are tile product designed to resemble wood planks. <A> TL: <S> DR - It can be done, but requires extra attention and caution <S> I grew up in a house that had hardwood in pretty much every room except the basement. <S> Hardwood is more tolerable in places like a "powder room" or half-bath, since you don't get the additional exposure to moisture associated with a shower or similar. <S> Even well sealed, manufactured, hardwood, T&G flooring can expand and swell with excess moisture. <S> I highly suggest rotating your bathmats regularly, if not daily, and if they catch water, make sure they don't sit on the floor. <S> This will hold that moisture against the wood, prolonging the exposure, rather than allowing it to evaporate. <S> Also, as @mikes pointed out, any ... <S> ammonia containing contaminants (aka pee) ... can be especially troublesome. <S> In the end, if you love hardwood floors like my family did, you can make it work. <S> It's also likely that if you made this decision you're already family with the near urgent cleanup of spilled liquids, and other care that can be unique to hardwood floors. <S> Enjoy them, and take care of them, and hardwood floor will last a VERY long time. <A> If that is what you would like for your floor material than you should install wood flooring. <S> Depending on what type of flooring will determine its longevity and maintenance schedule. <S> Solid wood strips 3/4" thick will need to be sealed with a urethane type coating in several built up applications and then occasionally resealed. <S> Wood laminate can be installed with if some extra precautions are taken. <S> Most manufacturers will state each seam needs to be sealed with a glue so as to create a waterproof joint. <S> I'd consider laminate as a last choice. <S> If any water penetrates it will swell the fiber board bottom layer. <S> I've just recently installed a bathroom floor that used a 5/16 inch thick x 6inch W x 18 inch L ceramic tile. <S> I was impressed as to <S> how well it's surface texture mimicked a real pine floor wood grain. <S> What is truly impressive is the selection as to the 'species' of wood-types available! <S> Oak, cherry, mahogany.... <S> all made of ceramic. <S> I am not a spokesperson or an employee for any tile manufacturer. <S> I am totally impressed by the way they are able to reproduce in detail a floor tile that so closely resembles real wooden plank. <S> BTW: these tile install exactly as any other ceramic tile.
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If you want a solid long lasting floor that has a "Wood" look consider a ceramic tile! That would obviously yield a much more water-resistant floor.
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Putting a new finish on engineered hardwood floors Recently, I dropped a jar of pickles on my engineered hardwood floors. I cleaned it up immediately with a little Mr. Clean and water on a paper towel. It was still sticky and I used vinegar and water on a paper towel and then a little soap and water on a paper towel. The shine is still there but the finish is not the same. When you walk over it with socks, you don't glide over it like you do elsewhere. You can not see the difference, you can only feel it. What can I do to make the floor smooth again on that spot? <Q> Before you do all of that, or considering you asked back in August (my apologies) <S> hopefully this helps the next person. <S> Try floor wax first. <S> Rub it on, buff it off, <S> viola the floor is slippery again. <A> Vinegar and water are good for cleaning some things, but will damage most floor finishes. <S> As suggested by @BrownRedHawk, you need to apply a new finish. <S> You could probably try treating just that area with an acrylic urethane floor finish designed for laminates, but doing the entire floor will ensure uniform "feel" and appearance. <S> These finishes are usually applied with an applicator pad on a stick. <S> Try a good hardware store or flooring shop and don't buy the cheapest stuff. <A> How big of a spot? <S> If it's an engineered floor, and you can find out the brand, it might be easier just to buy a new box and replace that spot. <S> Or, to save a bit more money, just disassemble the floor, and rearrange the pieces. <S> You'll still have a few boards that don't 'feel' the same, but at least they will be spread out and not feel like this 'one spot' and more just natural variance between boards.
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If it APPEARS fine you don't need to refinish the floors. The finish was dulled by either the pickle juice, or because you used vinegar, both of which are acidic.
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How to loosen glass bulb cover from metal base? I need to replace one of the lightbulbs in my bathroom's lightbulb fixture. The bulb itself is a halopin bulb that inserts with a metal hook, but its covered by a glass cage/receptacle that should just screw unto the metal base in the fixture. That glass cage is stuck. Based on other bulbs in the fixture it is supposed to screw off easily but the one that needs to be replaced is jammed. It's hard to put my full force into it because there is a sconce around it limiting my range of motion (I actually broke the sconce on an identical fixture downstairs trying to replace another stuck part). Any ideas on how I can get the glass off the metal more easily? <Q> Try squirting some sort of grease such as WD-40, or even more natural and thicker oils like olive oil into the part where the glass cage touches the inside metal. <S> Make sure to hold the fixture downward in the way that you pictured and try to minimize getting grease on the part of the glass which you grab. <S> Apply a damp cloth to the glass cage and fan the area to cool and thus take some of the pressure off of the thread in the metal. <S> Hope this helps! <A> I'd try one of the rubber pads used to improve one's grip on pot lids. <S> Be careful; you don't want that dome shattering in your hand. <A> Remove the glass sconce first.
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Switch between the damp cloth and setting it out in the sun to compress and decompress the glass, all the while attempting to turn it back and forth.
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How to deaden the noise that bounces from cinderblock wall in backyard? I have a very large backyard surrounded by a tall cinderblock wall. Not only is it HOT in the summer (NM summers) but the noise that bounces around is bad. Someone walking on the sidewalk next to my home can hear our conversations. Help? A coyote fence? bushes? what can help absorb the noise? The wall separates two levels. The top level next to the wall is not irrigated nor maintained. I leave it to wildlife vegetation and birds. There are several xeriscaped plants but I have no intention to create a garden of any kind. About 5 feet below the upper level is the main level where we enjoy the outdoors 8 months out of the year. I garden and plant flowers and allow my pets to enjoy the outdoors. Again, the wall is hot and noise bounces around. Thank you for your attention to this matter. I am looking for inexpensive fixes that I can do myself. <Q> Plant climbing vines at the wall, let them climb and cover. <S> Take note of the "sound walls" around the interstates or beltways around the cities. <S> Many have vines growing over them to aid in the sound deadening. <S> Find what the specie is and go from there. <A> Here in Southern California when tract homes are constructed along freeways a block wall is constructed the length of the lots. <S> Similar to yours I'm guessing. <S> Rather than having a smooth and flat surface the face of the blocks are irregular and textured. <S> Some project several inches past plumb while others look to have an angled face. <S> It would appear that the wall was constructed to have an artistic quality when in reality the "erratic" surface is meant to deflect and re-bound sound waves from the near by freeway. <S> (think Stealth Fighter). <S> It may be too much effort to modify the cinder blocks in your wall to mimic the one I described. <S> I think , as you already mentioned, planting dense shrubbery and trees would dull sound transmission in either direction. <S> I would think that (depending on the climate zone, N.M. is zone 13?) <S> some type of drought resistant hedge (box wood hedges) or tree (cypress) would work. <S> Also consider installing a wooden fence on top of or behind the block wall. <S> Any barriers that the sound waves come into contact with, to or from your house, will dull their volume as they reach your ears. <A> The material can be part-covered with regular wooden fencing, or plants, or painted, or a combination. <S> You may be able to get away with only performing this treatment on a couple of the walls to prevent the noise from bouncing around. <S> An example of how this can work is below with a sheeting-style product. <S> Image is of Acoustiblok fence product <A> I agree with the textured blocks mentioned by ojait. <S> The idea is to scatter the sound waves. <S> In fact you could also use wooden slats at, say, 45 degrees. <S> These would reflect the sound skywards (or indeed into the ground). <S> If you use the right timber that won't rot, then the slats can also form a frame for climbing plants.
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You can buy sound deadening panels or sheeting - You would construct a fence-like structure inside your block wall, then hang the sound absorbing panels or sheeting from that.
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Bathroom fan with no outside vent What's the purpose of a bathroom fan with no outside venting? One of my bathrooms is set up this way. I'm about to redo the ceiling, and I'd like to replace the fan unit with something better looking, but confused why a fan would not vent to the outside? Is it ok to replace with another no-vent unit? Should I look into other solutions? <Q> Bathrooms are one of the biggest (if not the biggest) producer or water vapor in your home. <S> When water vapor is trapped is can cause things like mold, mildew, damage to furniture, added difficulty in conditioning the air, and many more. <S> Just because a bathroom vent is not currently vented to the outside, does not mean it can't ever be. <S> The house I'm currently living in had no ceiling exhaust fan or light (just a vanity light). <S> In this situation I was able to wire in and install a new unit, with manufacturer recommended vent line and exhaust this line through the closest soffit. <S> Depending on the layout and positioning of your bathroom, you could run through above joist spaces until you reach a soffit, run into the attic and then out a vent, or simply through the nearest exterior wall. <S> Many times the shortest route is the simplest. <S> If this is something you aren't comfortable with, I highly suggest finding someone who can like a general contractor, trusted handiman, etc. <S> Keeping excess moisture out of your home will pay large dividends in the problems you're preventing. <A> If you live in an area covered by International Residential Code; or similar building codes, it's required that the fan exhaust to the outdoors. <S> See this answer , for exact code verbiage. <A> 40 years with no problem and bathroom fan only vents to attic. <S> I have a ridge vent and attic fan which I turn on periodically in winter and almost continuously in summer. <A> I recently installed a vent fan in a bathroom that my kids use. <S> I hooked it up to the electrical line used for the lights in the bathroom so that the fan would go on when someone turned on the lights. <S> I was able to cut out a 4" hole in the roof right above the bathroom for the vent hose and installed a vent cap on the roof. <S> It is best to vent to a location to keep the hose as short as possible, minimal turns and use an insulated hose if you live in a cold climate. <S> Venting through the soffit is not recommended if you have soffit vents and ridge vents as the steam is likely to get sucked right back into the attic via the soffit vents. <S> One of my bathrooms is vented directly into the attic which is not good practice. <S> But in 30 years, there has been no sign of any steam related damage in the attic or mold. <S> I am guessing this is due to the steam going out via the ridge vent in the roof.
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IMO, and IME, bathroom fans should always be vented outside.
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How do I remove carpet adhesive from concrete? I have a 12x15' sun room that currently has carpet over concrete. I pulled a 3' section of carpet and the entire floor has adhesive. Can I remove this using a liquid chemical or do I need a machine? The house was build in '96 so I'm assuming there's no harmful chemicals existing on the floor to worry about. I plan to tile over the concrete when finished. <Q> The glue used by the floor covering industry to adhere carpet to a floor is one of the most tenacious, and laborious bonds to break. <S> Use a sweeping arch to slice the residual adhesive from the floor. <S> Or, if possible, rent a 17 inch floor scrubber/buffer machine and ask for a couple of 36 grit sanding disc's. <S> The sanding discs will eventually clog with glue. <S> Wear a respirator if using silica. <A> Knee pads + Cordless Oscillating tool with scraper blade. <S> Provided <S> it's hardened glue, and not gooey sticky stuff. <A> this process is dangerous, because like most organic solvents, MEK is flammable, so take fire precautions. <S> open all the windows, put fans blowing out the windows (and open a door or window somewhere for fresh air to refill the room from), wear gloves, a full face respirator rated for VOC's and isocyurans, then go at it with MEK. <S> just pour the MEK along the edge of the carpet, wait a minute, then pull. <S> the carpet will just lift up. <S> pull until it stops, and repeat. <S> dispose of carpet immediately outdoors, and allow room to air out for 24 hours. <S> grind surface with a diamond cup wheel. <S> just knock off the high stuff, you don't need to take it down to virgin concrete. <S> just make it smooth. <S> use a mortar like flextile 52 or ceraflex 610 and install your tiles. <S> done
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I've found that some handfuls of silica sand broadcast on the floor speeds the glue removal and lessens the amount of glue clogging the disc. If you want to burn some calories grab some knee pads and a 6 inch floor scraper (and some extra blades). Breathing it can cause silicosis to the lungs.
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How do I find the valves on a toilet with hidden pipes? I just came back from holiday to find that water was pouring constantly through my dual-flush toilet, as though it's on permanent flush. A little tinkering revealed the shut off valve is broken - so no matter where the float is, the cistern continues to fill. Apparently this apparatus is called the Bottom Inlet Valve and isn't too difficult to replace. Anyway, the toilet is also supposed to apparently have a shut off valve, as this is standard on all modern toilets. Even if I can't do the work myself, it would be useful to shut this off when not in use to stop the noise and waste water. The problem with all of this is that all the internal plumbing on the toilet is concealed. There's not even any visible screws to put in the toilet seat. Nor is there any panels to remove that I can see to get at the pipes. There are just two screws, just above floor level, one of either side of the toilet. I have removed these, but nothing has come lose or started to shift. I Can't see anything that would just "come away" - the whole bowl of the toilet looks like a solid block of porcelain. How do I get to the pipework on my toilet, to see if there's an turn-off valve or find where the bottom inlet valve screws in to the cistern? EDIT: Some pictures of the cistern mechanism and the outside of the toilet. I'm not just interested in isolating the water. I need to find the inlet pipe itself, so I can disconnect the faulty valve. <Q> I do not know anything about american toilet systems, but in Europe the shutoff valve is usually located directly inside the flushing tank of concealed flushing systems. <S> You get there usually by removing the cover of the flushing lever/button. <S> For this purpose in most cases a snap-fit mechanism has to be overcome. <S> I can imagine, that the valve was inside the tank of all concealed flushing systems all over the world, because it directs any water from a broken valve or pipe into the toilet and not into your house's structure. <S> Of course, just a suspicion. <S> Pictures of a european concealed flushing system and its repair After having seen the OP's pictures, I have to concede, this is far from what I described. <S> But maybe I can add some more hints. <S> You can see a product label on the first pic with a bar code. <S> Could be a GTIN which you can use to find the product and an installation manual from the manufacturer in the internet. <S> This installation manual could give other hints to where a valve could possibly be. <S> What I would try next is to remove the two screws holding the cistern and very carefully pull it away from the wall, with little force and only a few millimeters. <S> Then I'd try to look behind it with a mirror to see, where the pipe is entering the wall and if there are other mounting devices. <A> I believe that your statement "the toilet is also supposed to apparently have a shut off valve" refers to rough plumbing and NOT the toilet. <S> If you don't have an external shut-off valve close to the external supply hose/pipe that connects to the toilet tank, you may not have a valve. <S> In this case, the only way to turn off the water supply for the toilet is to find another valve on this system- <S> most likely the whole-house valve, like keshlam suggested. <S> It is unlikely that the shut-off valve is in the wall. <S> This image is a good example of a toilet shut- <S> off- valve: <A> Bit late for the OP, but mine's through a cap here. <S> I'd imagine his is in the same place, perhaps on the other side. <S> If there's no cap, maybe the base needs pulling out.
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I am not aware of any toilet with a shut-off valve inside the toilet.
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Is transitioning to all electric heating smart? I am in the process of overhauling my home heating and plumbing. I bought a 2600sq/ft 1980s Cape Cod in southern Maine on the coast. I've reinsulated the walls and roof and am continuing to make improvements in sealing the house. Overall, the insulation is pretty good. The house is built on a slab with a 5 ft high frost wall. Currently I have a old noisy oil burning boiler/on-demand water heater and forced hot water baseboard heating. I also installed a Jotul Oslo wood stove and a Fujitsu 15RLS2 heat pump. The boiler is a mess, the previous owner never serviced it. It has broken down twice and I have dumped about $1500 into it within the past 18 months. This past winter we relied almost exclusively on the wood stove and heat pump which got me thinking. Do I even need this oil boiler? Even in the summer, when it is just heating hot water, it can easily go through 60 gallons of oil per month. We do not have natural gas lines in my town. My thought is to scrap the oil boiler, get another heat pump, and install electric baseboard as a backup. I would also install a heat pump hot water heater. In the long run I plan to install a solar electric system... Is this plan crazy? Should I keep some sort of fossil fuel based heat source? Is the electric baseboard a bad idea? Here are temperature statistics for the town I live in: http://temperature.weatherdb.com/l/3943/Cape-Elizabeth-Maine <Q> First step is to convert those prices into something you can compare on equal footing. <S> $0.063042/kWh = <S> $17.50/GJ, for oil, $2/gal = $13.7/GJ <S> So, superficially, oil is cheaper than electricity for the same amount of energy. <S> However, there are a couple of other things to consider. <S> Oil combustion is only about 75 - 90% efficient at heating because you have to exhaust the products of combustion, losing some heat in the process. <S> Electricity on the other hand, when converted directly to heat (like in a baseboard heater, or electric furnace) is 100% efficient. <S> Electricity can be used to run a heat pump which, instead of turning the energy source directly to heat, uses a refrigerant to move heat from outside, allowing you to get 2 - 3 GJ of heat into your house for every GJ you put into the heat pump. <S> This GREATLY improves the cost effectiveness of electricity... <S> but.... Heat pumps typically have a minimum temperature at which they will operate effectively. <S> This temperature will depend on the model and they are getting much better, but you may still have to depend on resistive heating on the coldest days of the year. <S> Given your assumptions, the prices you have thrown out, it seems like it will be a wash, or slightly cheaper to use electricity. <A> The operating range for the Fujitsu 15RLS2 to heat is -5°F to 75°F according to the specification . <S> As long as temperatures are not below that for an extended time, this looks like a very good choice. <S> As for whether to significantly rely on electric heat sources, I have pause. <S> We have removed baseboard heaters and installed a gas fireplace insert to address long power outages—which only occur during heating season. <S> One unfortunate characteristic of the Pacific Northwest is winter windstorms, tall trees, and power lines not playing together nicely. <S> Last winter we were without power totaling approximately four days over five occurrences. <S> If power interruptions are not a concern, whether because power is reliable or you have a generator, UPSs, etc. <S> then I think it is smart to be less polluting while also reducing energy costs. <S> Oil is eventually going to go up in price, affected mostly by non-U.S. factors <S> (right now it is at decades long lows adjusted for inflation) while electricity is more stable and mostly affected by U.S. factors. <A> Also, consider Solar Power is getting cheaper every year, and thus electricity may essentially be free in 10 to 20 years. <S> Solar coupled with something like a Tesla Powerwall will allow the solar generated electricity to be stored when the sun is not out. <S> You know solar is starting to make inroads when utilities start fighting it like they are now . <S> This is looking at your question in the long view, but something to think about. <A> The winters are too harsh and unpredictable in the Northeast to rely mostly on electric heat. <S> The wood stove is an OK backup heat source as long as the temperatures aren't extremely cold, and the outage isn't for more than a couple of days. <S> If you end up in a situation where the power is out for days, and there are sub zero temperatures, then you start running a big risk of freezing the pipes in your walls. <S> The insulation you are adding may help to prevent this from happening a little bit, but you can never be too sure. <S> You should think about having a backup heating source. <S> If it isn't oil, then your options are limited since you are not able to get natural gas. <S> There are a few other choices that I can come up with. <S> You could get a gas furnace and run it off of propane, replace your oil burner with a wood burning boiler, or get a pellet stove. <S> Propane can be expensive, but if you only use it for heating to take the chill off, and don't use it for heating up bath water, etc. <S> then it is fairly cost effective. <S> Pellet stoves are quiet, they heat up quite a bit of space, and are easy to use. <S> All you have to do is load up the pellet stove every morning, and make sure it doesn't get clogged up. <S> It would also only run when you are heating, so there is a big savings in fuel costs. <S> It would be a good idea to price out each one of these systems and weigh the pros and cons. <S> There are a variety of heating systems on the market, and I am not endorsing which one you should ultimately end up with.
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A wood burning boiler could work in your situation because it would allow you to reuse the existing baseboard heat. Long term reliability, equipment costs, and other concerns may be a different story, however.
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Can a homeowner without a Section 608 EPA license legally connect his own gauges to his own air conditioner if the unit uses 410a refrigerant? It has been suggested by at least one moderator on this site that EPA Section 608, which restricts who can purchase and handle refrigerant, including who can connect a set of manifold gauges to a unit, applies only to CFC and HCFC refrigerants (class I and II refrigerants). Can someone please clarify if it is legal or illegal for a homeowner without an EPA license to attach his own manifold gauges to his own equipment if it is charged with an HFC such as 410a? From reading sections of the statute (not just the EPA summary) it is my understanding that effective November 15, 1995, Section 608 applies not only to CFC and HCFC refrigerants, but also their "substitutes." [The EPA has separately stated the term "substitutes" is not meant to restrict the sale of refrigerants that do not contain Ozone Depleting Compounds, such as 410a. Federal Register/ Vol. 70, No. 70 / Wednesday, April 13, 2005 / Rules and Regulations / ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY /40 CFR Part 82 [FRL–7899–3]. ] Best answer from the EPA website: http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/phaseout/technicians_contractors_faq.html Is EPA technician certification required to service R-410A systems? No, at this time EPA technician certification (i.e., EPA Section 608 certification) is not required in order to service R-410A systems or other stationary refrigeration and air conditioning systems containing HFCs. It appears this activity is legal, provided the 410a is not intentionally released into the atmosphere. +100 to Tyler for being first and closest to this answer. <Q> The law against "unlicensed" refrigerant handlers (whatever that means) does not specify any penalties, it just says it is "prohibited", so from a legal standpoint it is an unenforceable law. <S> In order for a law to be prosecuted it must have a penalty specified, otherwise it is moot in court. <S> For this reason, noone has ever been indicted for violating this so-called "prohibition". <S> In general, only companies are sued by the EPA for refrigerant issues, not individuals, with the exception of refrigerant "smugglers" who are indicted on trade laws, not Clean Air Act violations. <S> In the last 10 years only one (individual not company) person has ever been domestically convicted of a Freon-related violation. <S> That was a guy who was brazenly selling Freon on Craigslist. <S> Even in this case, he was convicted of filing false documents with the Feds, not of actually selling the Freon. <S> No individual householder has ever been criminally charged for maintaining, charging or otherwise working with refrigerants, illegal or otherwise, in their own home or business. <A> For what its worth; I've seen all of the tools necessary to evacuate, collect, store and than recharge residential and automotive refrigerant systems sold on the open consumer market. <S> Northern tools, Harbor freight... <S> What I haven't noticed is the actual refrigerant; the old stuff the EPA banned (r-12?) nor the newer stuff (r-410?). <A> One main reason homeowners should not adjust the levels (charge or recover) is safety. <S> You can mess with R410a or R134a <S> however, it is strongly recommended not to. <S> Refrigerants are commonly used at high pressures. <S> Let's take the average residential AC for an example. <S> The "low side" runs around 130 PSI and the high side can run in excess of 450 PSI. <S> The pressure alone should be an indicator not to mess with but if you unintentionally release some refrigerant from the high side you are releasing liquid refrigerant, R410a at atmospheric pressure is -60°F. <S> At that temperature you will give yourself serious burns. <S> So word of advise from a pro, DON'T TOUCH IT. <S> Vehicle systems are a different animal you can easily ruin the AC <S> but it operates at pressures a lot lower than your house AC. <S> It is also illegal and very much enforceable to release any refrigerant with chlorine or that has a GWP, such as everything except CO2 the finest are extreme, I think they can be in excess of $100,000 <A> This is the important part below, IMO: (AFAIK, other then to work on commercial equipment, the certification allows you to buy refrigerant from compliant sellers requiring you to produce ID) <S> EPA has also established that refrigerant recovered and/or recycled can be returned to the same system or other systems owned by the same person without restriction. <S> If refrigerant changes ownership, it must be reclaimed (i.e., cleaned to the ARI 700-1993 Standard of purity) by an EPA certified refrigerant reclaimer. <S> – <S> www.epa.gov <S> 608fact.html <S> As long as your equipment is certified and up to date, you can put your refrigerant into any of your equipment (without having to send it off to be recovered). <S> Require persons servicing or disposing of air-conditioning and refrigeration equipment to certify to EPA that they have acquired refrigerant recovery and/or recycling equipment and are complying with the requirements of the rule. <S> Notice the wording here <S> , "certify to" as opposed to "certified by" (what are you supposed to do, send them a letter? <S> *) <S> Also notice such wording as, "good faith attempt" . <S> * <S> This certification must be signed by the owner of the equipment or another responsible officer and sent to the appropriate EPA Regional Office. <S> Again, I'm a little fuzzy on this wording: "complying with the applicable requirements of this rule" . <S> Does that mean good faith attempt , or has at the very least a Type I certification ... <S> Let's reword a little: Are you going to get into trouble for adjusting the refrigerant levels on your own equipment? <S> I highly doubt it (frostbite, notwithstanding). <A> From the website's FAQs on getting certified to handle 410a: <S> Are you required to have a license or to be certified to handle and purchase R-410A? <S> You are required to have an EPA Section 608 Type II or Universal certification license to handle R-410A but no license is legally necessary for purchase. <S> A refrigeration supply house may have its own rules regarding who they are willing to sell R-410A to (they will typically require Section 608 Type II even though the EPA doesn’t require it for safety and liability reasons). " <S> The above information can be found at the following URL: http://www.epatest.com/faq/R410A/#G1 <S> Beats me how the EPA could possibly enforce this. <S> If you want to pass their certification test, "illegal" is the answer, but since they do not provide the reference to the actual EPA on this issue I am not going to count this as the correct answer to my question (hat tip to Tester101 for pointing this out).
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It seems that "epatest.com," a website by "Mainstream Engineering Corporation" unaffiliated with the EPA, believes purchasing 410a without a license is legal, but handling it without a license is illegal. Apparently, yes: EPA requires that persons servicing, disposing, or recycling air-conditioning and refrigeration equipment certify to the appropriate EPA Regional Office that they have acquired (built, bought, or leased) refrigerant recovery or recycling equipment and that they are complying with the applicable requirements of this rule.
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How do I hang a new wooden gate so that it automatically stays closed when it is shut but also stays open at its maximum open span? I am building and hanging a new wooden double gate. How do I construct and/or balance the gate so that when I open it completely, which is at 90 degrees, it will stay open but also when I close it, it stays closed? Yes, I might put a self-locking latch so that when it is closed, it automatically catches and stays closed. Is there another way to do this? I plan to use a dead-bolt type lock, and would prefer that you not have to unlatch it to open the gate when not locked. This is an double gate, where one gate door is 40" wide the other is only 20". I'd like both sides to behave the same, staying open and closed. I am not overly concerned about very windy days, where the wind might defeat a balanced system. Here's an another way to look at what I am thinking: (originally I was not thinking that the gate should move towards open, or closed, but I now see this as desirable). For various reasons I am planning on using a hinge similar to this: I might be persuaded not to do use this if it helped to achieve my desired outcome. I could use gravity to make the gate stay closed by itself. The trick is, I think, that I also want the gate door to stay open too, when I open it. EDIT: Closer! I find that there are weld-on hinges for chain-link fences that do this, and that they make " Rising Hinges " or " Lift Off Hinges " that do half the job. Many of these are designed to use gravity to automatically close a door but all of them seem to sell only as wholesale items. Related: How can I make a door open or close depending on the door position? (good and useful answer here too) , How do I adjust a door so it doesn't swing on its own? and How to keep door open or closed automatically? <Q> If the hinges are on the same vertical line, then (as noted by @DA01) <S> the hinge should stay wherever you leave it (absent wind, etc). <S> If the hinges aren't vertically aligned, then the gate will want to swing towards a specific point. <S> You can use this to solve your problem. <S> Imagine that the gate is swinging on a rod, and can go 360° around the rod. <S> If the rod is vertical then you can put the gate anywhere you want and it will stay. <S> However, if the rod is leaning towards a certain direction, then the gate will tend to swing until it is pointing in that direction (because the gate will be lower at that point). <S> What if you move the gate to the exact other side of the rod from where it wants to go? <S> It will sit there, balanced. <S> If you then move it in either direction it will continue to swing in that direction until it reaches its low point. <S> So, what you want to do with your gate is to align the hinges so that the hinge line leans away from the the middle of the gate's range (at 45°). <S> That way the gate will tend to swing away from the 45° point, towards the nearer of 0° and 90°. <S> Edit: <S> When you do this, you may have to readjust the position of the gate on its hinges in order to have the gate properly fit into its opening. <S> But, once you adjust the post side of the hinges to get the right swing, changes to the gate side of the hinges won't affect the swing, so you won't have to readjust anything. <A> The key would be to make sure the post holding up the gate is absolutely vertical. <S> That's sometimes hard to do (or impossible) hence the use of latches and catches. <A> I have actually worked this problem in reverse, making a gate that wants to swing open or shut so it moves nice and easy. <S> I think you can make it work without too much trouble. <S> Normally you want the top and bottom hinges perfectly plumb so the gate swings very easily. <S> Gate hinges and latches have a bit of play in them, they'll operate even if everything's not perfectly plumb / level / square. <S> In those positions, it won't swing "uphill" on it's own. <S> I think it will take some trial and error to get the position just right. <S> (Not to mention to test my theory...) <S> I'd attach the top hinge permanently, and clamp the bottom hinge on the shim with a big C clamp until you find the thickness of shim and offset that works, then mark it and fasten it.
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I believe if you shim the bottom hinge a bit out away from the post, and move it a hair left or right, you'll get the effect you're looking for, you basically make a high spot in the gate's arc of travel at about 45 degrees so it will tend to fall from that point either all the way open or all the way closed.
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How to remove a stuck Sharkbite connector from a PEX tube? I have a Sharkbite stopper that I put on the end of a 1/2" PEX tube, and now I'd like to remove it. I've used both the official orange plastic removal tool and an adjustable wrench, and my fingers are sore from pressing on it trying to get it to budge. Any other options short of cutting it off at this point? <Q> Try pushing the pipe in a bit, before pulling it out. <S> Sometimes the barbs dig into the pipe, so the release ring can't disengage them. <S> Pushing the pipe in, may allow the release to completely disengage the barbs. <S> Use the tool to compress the release ring. <S> Push the tubing deeper into the fitting, while keeping pressure on the release tool. <S> Pull the tubing out of the fitting. <S> During step 2, you might feel the release ring move slightly closer to the fitting. <S> This is a good sign that the barbs are fully retracted, and the pipe is ready for retraction. <S> If you don't feel the release move, don't worry, it might just be too slight for your sore fingers to feel. <S> Alternatively, try reversing steps 1 and 2. <S> Push the tube deeper into the fitting, then use the release tool to operate the release mechanism. <A> I have worked with Sharkbites 100s of times as I often use these for quick jobs, especially in houses that are a copper and pex hybrid. <S> Here are the easy tips for dealing with this: <S> To get the connector out you must press on the release collar. <S> The tool picture above works <S> Actually I have used a lot of things. <S> But you must have pressure on the collar in multiple places. <S> If you have the tool and it isn't coming off. <S> Don't push the pex all the way in and definitely don't pull on it when using the tool. <S> I would push the pex in then release it out about 1/4" and then try to use the tool. <S> I know it is hard to gauge where the pex is in the connector but <S> you are making it harder by pushing or pulling before the teeth are released. <S> Try squeezing the tool around the pipe snuggly. <S> Often times the tool is a little deformed and the sleeve isn't pushed in correctly or uniformly enough to release the bite action. <S> Try rotating the tool around the sleeve. <S> The release sleeve might have an issue or might be obstructed on a certain part. <S> Rotating the tool slowly while keeping it snug on the pex usually works for me 90% of the time. <S> You can use pliers if you need more force. <S> I have found myself in this situation just a couple times <S> but this works too. <S> I have also used a butter knife to move the sleeve in the right shape - sometimes it gets stuck. <S> You can use your connector again. <S> I have reused a couple of sharkbite stoppers 10s of times already for showers. <S> Sharkbite would never tell you this <S> but I have used the Gatorbite removal tool - which is very very similar to remove many sharkbites and have turned to it a few times when the sharkbite tool didn't work. <S> (I have never not been able to remove a connector or had to cut a pipe) <A> For half inch, the fitting itself takes a 3/4 wrench in the middle, and the tube takes a 5/8 wrench. <S> I used a monkey wrench on the fitting, and a 5/8 wrench pushing on the plastic tool. <S> I could have skipped the tool and used that wrench to push the release ring. <S> I could do this by hand but with this set-up I could squeeze the two wrenches firmly together with channel locks and keep them square by holding the handle of the one on the release ring side, and this completely freed the fitting. <S> It helped to have a second person pull the pipe out, but probably not necessary. <S> I've never had such trouble getting them apart. <A> I used the suggestion above using the 5/8" wrench instead of the orange sharkbite tool. <S> I placed one part of that vise grip on the end of the 90 degree sharkbite connector and the other end on the 5/8" wrench which was over the release ring and gently squeezed while holding the 5/8" wrench to stay flat over the release ring. <S> The pex tubing then came out with a gentle pull. <S> Success!!!! <S> I think I could have accomplished the same removal with other type of sharkbite connectors by using a regular vise grip on the connector and squeezing on the 5/8" on top of the release ring and maybe a channel lock plyiers. <S> Good luck to all and thank you to the person who gave me the advise i used to accomplish the removal. <S> I was able to finish my plumbing job.
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I also used a special vise grip wrench I have that has a c clamp end for holding parts together. but I have also used needle nose pliers when I didn't have the official tool handy.
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Why are ungrounded GFCIs required to be labeled? I discovered in my new house that someone had incorrectly connected grounded outlets (without any ground connected) to the knob and tube wiring. I have read that the outlets can be made safe by adding a GFCI upstream. However, electrical code requires that any ungrounded GFCI be labeled "No Equipment Ground." Why is this? What consequences as a homeowner do I need to be aware of to the lack of ground connection? Are there certain devices I shouldn't use on this circuit? <Q> Some surge suppressors dump surges to the grounding conductor, some audio video equipment requires a grounding conductor, some "smart" devices trickle current to the grounding conductor, etc. <S> It also notifies folks doing work in this box in the future, that they shouldn't expect to connect the grounding conductor. <S> The label is also applied to all other outlets supplied by the GFCI, since it may not be obvious in remote boxes what's going on. <A> GFCIs are a poor substiture for grounding. <S> Proper grounding should disconnect a fault to the case pretty much immediately. <S> If the case is not grounded A GFCI will only disconnect a fault to the case after your electric shock starts (but hoepfully before the sockhas persisted long enough to kill you) <S> I assume that your safety regulators put these provisions in as a carrot to try and encourage people to add GFCIs and to discourage people from cutting earth pins off appliances. <S> A particular nasty situation can be if you have multiple items in touching distance some of which are connected to ground (either through electrical ground connectors or otherwise) and some of which have missing ground connections. <A> Your GFCI will let you know about its displeasure, don't you worry. <S> Some surge suppressors do indeed transmit some energy to the EGC -- however, this is not a major concern for typical units as MOVs absorb energy in addition to shunting it. <S> A/V (or other) equipment in metal chassis is not a concern as well -- it is the local equipotential bonding of the chassis that provides protection from EM and RF noise as the EGC is electrically "long" at any significant frequency. <S> This leaves the issue of devices that either inadvertently or intentionally leak excess current to the EGC -- Tester101 mentioned some "smart" home automation equipment that uses the EGC instead of a neutral return. <S> The usual sign that an incompatibility with the GFCI protection is present is simply that the GFCI trips (either immediately, or when some poor sod pokes the device) -- either that, or a device that leaks operating current to ground will not function without a way for the current to get back home, of course. <S> (Of course, Tester's concerns about communicating the situation to the next poor sap who has to work on your house wiring are very important as well.)
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It's better to have a missing ground and a GFCI than to have a missing ground with no GFCI. There are also some pieces of test equipment that leak current to ground as an unavoidable consequence of their normal functioning.
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Can I drill smaller holes in granite? Can I drill smaller holes in granite? I want to install aluminum shelves on a vertical backsplash behind the stove. I will need to drill 7 holes for screws and or mollies. If I can ascertain the studs I can use screws. Would there be an advantage of drilling a smaller hole in granite say 1/8" to 1/4"? Meaning less stress and risk of fracture? Could I use carbide or do I need diamond tip? I do have scrap to practice on. <Q> Don't let the term diamond scare you away from buying one. <S> They're readily available from such vendors as Amazon for much less than you might think, a 5 piece 5/32” – ½” is $8 there. <S> As another user here posted, DO NOT use the hammer drill setting on your drill. <S> Easy does it, with a water spray bottle if you can't continuously run water at the drill site. <S> As for mollys, I think you'll get the best results using something like a Powers mini dropin internally threaded expansion anchor. <S> They take a machine thread screw that you can cut to whatever length you might need. <A> Carbide works well on granite. <S> It's best if you can provide cooling by drilling under water. <S> If you're stuck with vertical tiles, frequent squirting might keep the drill bit and granite reasonably cool. <A> depending on the weight loaded on the shelves and the thickness of the granite, drilling through the granite (and attaching the brackets or standards to wall framing) would produce the most stable and sturdy shelves. <S> The wall anchors would work also, but using the wall framing is more reliable. <S> Drill using a carbide bit slightly larger than the screw diameter. <S> Carbide tipped bits last longer than masonry bits, but cost more. <S> If you find the bit spinning off the mark use a nail set (or masonry nail) to gently and softly tap a starting dimple for the bit. <S> Drill at low/ slow RPM's to prolong carbide life. <S> Heat will dull drill point. <S> Spritz with aqua if needed. <S> Retract bit occasionally when drilling to remove granite dust to facilitate drill speed. <S> I'd just be sure that when you are tightening the shelves to the wall that you don't over torque the screws. <S> If the granite is not supported (because the wall is bowed) or against the wall, it might crack from over driving the screw. <A> Diamond tip is the only way to go <S> and yes you need to spray it with water while you drill it whatever you do do not use the hammer or impact function on your driver <S> just let it nice and gently turn its way into the material you can run painters tape criss cross across the whole <S> you're getting ready to drill sometimes that will prevent chipping on the surface. <S> Going into studs is definitely your best bet there is a new type of toggle bolt now that goes in with a long plastic insert <S> and then they break off <S> and you can use them at different depths depending on how thick your granite is they are about a dollar a piece you can get boxes of 30 of them at Lowes <S> I used them recently to put handicap rails up on some old thick ceramic tile they work wonderful <S> and they can hold plenty of weight I have to agree with the one answer that says do not over tighten your fasteners <S> but I definitely would go with the diamond bit and <S> once again above all do not use the hammer function on your drill.
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For best results, when it comes to drilling into stone, always use diamond drill bits. If there are many holes use carbide (they will also drill faster if the drill has an impact or hammer selection switch).
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mounting 60 inch TV with steel plates? Mounting a 60 inch TV where studs are 22inches apart. Can I use 2 steel plates that are each 48 x 1 1/4 x 1/8 inch thick and then bolt them to my bracket and to the wall studs at each end and one in the middle? Will that give me enough strength and support over dry wall? <Q> Sounds like a true DIY project.1/8 inch thick flat steel stock should be adequate. <S> Am I seeing this right: one length of steel above the other (spaced accordingly), attached to the wall framing with HD screws through holes in each piece of steel? <S> As long as the wall framing is sound and secured properly, I'm confident it will easily support the 60" and it's bracket. <S> But install the steel plates first and then the TV bracket and lastly the 60". <S> Also check the weight rating for the TV bracket. <A> Personally I think you would be far better off mounting a sheet of good quality 3/4" plywood between the studs. <S> Size the plywood so it a bit larger than the TV mount plus the extra amount so that it extends to the studs on each side. <S> This will provide a far superior mount than that thin steel strap iron that you are proposing. <S> The plywood is also easy to finish so it blends into the wall and will do a great job of holding the screws that secure the TV mount. <S> On the other hand to attach the steel strap iron to the TV mount you'll be using nuts and bolts and thus the strap would not sit flush to the wall. <A> I just finished mounting my tv with 16" spacing between studs on center. <S> I cut open the wall and installed 2 - 2x6 blocking (broad face facing out and 1 above the other) with pocket screws in between the studs and then screwed a piece of 3/4" plywood on top of the blocking and closed the wall back up.
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My tv mount is screwed into the two studs and the plywood/blocking (did this to ensure that the off center tv mounting would be strong enough) and it's rock solid!
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How can I vent a bathtub trap when the drain is routed under the tub? I am … very slowly … thinking about replacing the probably circa 1950's galvanized steel drain pipes in my basement with PVC. In particular, I would like to replace the drain line under the bathtub since there is a drip there. What I am not sure about is how to route things to correctly vent the new trap when I replace the current setup. I believe my easiest (and thus "best") option is to run a vent pipe straight up through the floor to an air admittance valve (AAV) placed (a lot) more than 6" above flood level for the tub. The most natural place to run this vent pipe would be the area just in front of the tub. The plumbing access for the tub is in this area. It is at the back of a closet and still mostly unfinished and thus accessible. However , the fellow who self-built this house ran the existing tub drain in the exact opposite direction, directly under the back of the tub since this is the shortest path to the outlet to the septic. From the look of things, venting was never a priority for him. I am guessing he assumed the tub trap was "close enough" to the vented septic outlet that a vent wasn't needed for the tub's trap. I am less trusting in the benevolence of Murphy. My understanding is that the vent should be placed "behind" the trap and at least 2 drain pipe diameters distant. The vent access to get above the tub's flood level is in front of the tub, the opposite direction of where it seems the trap should go. I have attached the pics below to better illustrate what I'm talking about. So … how to vent this? Do I try to route the p-trap in front of the tub, vent it, and then turn it back around to run under the tub to the septic outlet drain? Or can I point the p-trap back under the tube, but angle the vent so that it comes back in front of the tub where I can then take it up through the floor? It's a mystery to me. Just for the heck of it … While the picture below doesn't directly apply to my question, I added it just for context. This pic shows the main outlet to the septic. Directly above it is the WC. The PVC angling up is the 2" vent stack through the roof. The combined bathtub and kitchen drains enter on the opposite side (behind in the pic) of the cast iron. The pipe with the black tape coming from the right is for the bathroom sink drain. The guy who put this together certainly did love him some right angles. <sigh /> <Q> Why do you think the bathtub is not currently vented? <S> Not all traps need to be individually vented <S> so you're not always going to see a vent if you don't know what to look for. <S> It's a little hard to tell from your photos, but I think your bathtub is <S> wet vented through the kitchen sink: <S> Please correct me if I've got the arraignment of your pipes wrong. <A> Is there no overflow on the tub? <S> This picture shows the drain to p-trap plumbing but if there is an overflow then there is likely more pipe under the tub that you can't see and possibly this pipe is vented. <S> One way to tell might to take a look at the roof over your bathroom. <S> If there is a vent penetration inline with the wall behind the shower drain then you can be pretty sure it is dry vented out that roof vent. <A> Both of your suggestions work however <S> Believe me I'm not a plumbing guru <S> but I do service calls for a living as a handyman and it run across a lot of plumbing experience now in situations like that you just have to do the best you can. <A> The guy who plumbed this probably goes out for beer with the guy who plumbed our double-wide. <S> :) <S> I learned the hard way, by repairing previous work here, that you can't have too many vents. <S> Where to put them though? <S> I can also appreciate not running horizontal below the "flood level." <S> So, I'd look into what a vent is actually going to do. <S> It's not going to help matters having it above the P <S> (apologies if I'm misunderstanding where you wanted to put it) if the P gets clogged - if anything, water backing up will clog the vent and keep it from doing its job. <S> I'd put the vent somewhere between the P and the main sewer drop <S> , that would give me more flexibility to positioning, and adding whatever bends I need to route around the framing on its way up to the roof. <S> And the T needn't be a horizontal exit - angle it up <S> , that's what I'd do (if possible.) <S> I learned about the importance of venting when trying to figure out why the toilet in the previous owner's "new" master bedroom toilet would burp and gurgle whenever we ran the vanity sink in the hall bathroom. <S> Apparently they never did. <S> And that vanity sink? <S> The reason I couldn't find where it emptied into the septic drain line, so I could add a vent pipe? <S> is because they T'd it into the vent between the hall toilet and master bedroom toilet. <S> (saving even worse horror stories for other questions.)
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I think I would just run a T on the PVC coming down to the P trap and run my vent there it would work just fine. Your drop from the tub to the P doesn't have a lot of space.
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Are four brackets adequate for an 8-foot wire laundry shelf? I am purchasing wire shelving for an 8 foot wide concrete wall laundry. I will hang two 8 foot by 16 inches. Are 4 vertical wall brackets enough to support it? I understand I should space them every 24 inches. Is this correct? Do I really need the Hang Track, since I will be attaching the wall brackets with Tapcom 1 ¾” screws? <Q> I would say it all depends on how much weight you plan to put on the shelves. <S> Here are some "specs" on a site for Closet Maid Maximun <S> hold 6' <S> x 16" shelving. <S> Holds up to 600 lb. <S> per shelf (total weight per 40 in. <S> track not to exceed 900 lb.) <S> Weight should be distributed evenly across shelf. <S> Can be used with maximum load installation hardware (sold separately) Installation in studs or concrete with standards and brackets (sold separately) no more than 16 in. <S> apart http://www.homedepot.com/p/ClosetMaid-Maximum-Load-6-ft-x-16-in-Ventilated-Wire-Shelf-73571/202104723 <A> Wire shelving is very flexible. <S> For that reason, and regardless of your intended loading, I'd go every 16 inches with support. <S> I consider that useful for those who like to reconfigure shelving arrangements on occasion, such as in a walk-in bedroom closet. <S> Otherwise they're cumbersome and wasteful. <S> I like to put wall clips every 16" and at the very ends, and I hit every stud with an angle bracket. <S> You'll still get flex between supports with concentrated loads, but for general use you'll have a decent setup. <A> What brand is this, "ClosetMaid"? <S> (I'm guessing based on the first thing that comes up when searching for "Hang track" that looks like it's related to wire shelving.) <S> That appears to be something intended to allow hanging standards (the upright rail parts) between studs, and to help folks that can't use a level to line up the standards get the standards lined up (of course, if they can't use a level, no bets on them being lined up level, but they seem to think it will somehow magically happen if they just spend more money on that part.) <S> You don't need them.
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With a concrete wall (no studs to find) and an 8 foot shelf, I would not stick to 24" spacing unless some other aspect of the shelf system requires it - the end brackets can be in somewhat from the extreme ends and still support the shelf, unless you want to store anvils at the very ends of the shelves. As has been said, you don't need hang track.
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How to finish wood stair treads? I ordered the wood for my staircase and now I need to decide on which product to use. Some people recomened polyurethane or some water base resin, but I don't like that (I think it might crack and/or scratch). Apart from that there are some varnishes available that are meant to protect from sun/water with guarantee of 3-5 years. I'm also considering using some kind of oil/wax, but in Brazil finish oils are hard to come by. I think that I might find mineral oil, carnauba wax and bee wax. The wood I'm using is rated at about 1750 pounds-force on the Janka scale, should I be worried about the wood getting damaged by constant walking? <Q> 10 years ago I used some red oak stair treads and put Minwax stain, an oil based product. <S> I waited a few days for drying, then put three coats of satin polyurethane on them with a very light sanding between coats. <S> We use these stairs several times a day and they do not look worn in the least. <A> We have thousands of trips up and down and there is absolutely no visible wear. <S> Not to say there won't be <S> BUT it is impressive so far that there is no wear. <S> Three dogs up and down with us most trips too! <A> Satin looks nice , in my opinion. <S> Be careful with wax on stair treads - know why? <S> Remember the following equation: Waxed treads + socks on stairs = disaster!
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I recently put in a set of hardwood (oak) stairs and finished with a water based stain and water based coating (several coats until I liked the look).
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How can I attach a metal soap dish to tile? What is the best glue to use when you glue a metal soap dish to a tile in the bathroom. <Q> My approach (depending on the mating surface available, shape, etc.) would be to use pure "clear" silicone along with a bit of foam tape. <S> Cut a small piece of foam tape to act as a temporary anchor while the silicone sets. <S> Place it in the center of the soap dish back panel in a location that allows you to apply a bead of silicone entirely around it (to effectively seal it in). <S> Once the silicone is applied to the back of the dish, stick the dish to the wall and press firmly. <S> Wipe any extra sealant from the wall and dish. <S> Optionally, once the silicone sets (2-4 hours should do), run a small bead around the dish to seal it further and improve appearance. <A> If the soap dish can't be secured by drilling holes for wall anchors here is a good choice for an adhesive: <S> "Plumbers Goop", comes in clear or black. <S> A very thick and when cured resilient waterproof adhesive. <S> Once it dries it wont come off easily. <S> Clean the tile surface with alcohol, first. <S> You will have to temporarily tape the soap dish in place until full cure (about 24 hrs.). <A> Use silicone or Kerdi-Fix. <S> Kerdi Fix is probably the better choice <S> but it's expensive and can be hard to find. <S> Silicone is probably 'good enough'. <S> You can use double-stick foam to hold it up as isherwood says, or a strip of tape as a strap to hold it up (as in this thread on JohnBridge.com <S> Epoxy, JB Weld, etc. may work, but if they don't you have quite a mess to clean off your tile before you can try again. <S> Silicone can be removed fairly easily with a razor blade and a dish scrubber, so if you make a mistake and your soap dish falls off you can easily try again.
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IMO silicone (or a silicone-based adhesive like Kerdi) is the best choice.
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How wide does a 6x6 concrete post footing need to be using an elevated post base anchor? I'm building a pergola over a paver patio. The pergola will dimension 11'x 11.5' on center of post with 6x6 posts (4 posts), tied together with sandwiched 2x12 beams. I've laid out footer locations and am about to dig for 8" sonotube forms. The footings will be set 2.5" below finished grade and I'll use Simpson Strong Tie Elevated Post Base anchors (EPB66) so that I can lay pavers on top of the footing, with the pergola post resting on the anchor base at the finished grade of the patio. My question is weather or not an 8" dia. footing is truly sufficient. The Strong Tie spec notes a minimum 4" offset from center of anchor pin to edge of concrete, so it would seem that 8" diameter footings would meet the spec. The footings will be close to the edge of a surrounding retaining wall, so I'd like to avoid a larger diameter that would require augering closer to the wall. (FYI - This is in Central Ohio, so the footers will be 3' deep, heavy clay soils. Occasional heavy snow in winter. I plan to trellis vining plants up and over). Note: There was a similar question addressed on this forum a year or so ago and an answer suggested using 12" footers, but my situation may be slightly different due to use of the elevated anchor. How wide does a 6x6 concrete post footing needs to be? <Q> Well...I had to live and learn. <S> I used 12 inch sonotubes with the same anchor and cheap cement (the fence post kind that was recommended to me) and 6 x6 posts, which turned out to be a bad idea. <S> 2 of the 4 cement piers cracked part way down where the achor ties were. <S> My solution was to build 21 inch squares around the base about 12 inches down and past the broken areas and leave the rest of the existing footing intact with the more expensive extra strong cement surrounding the existing pier that goes 3 ft down. <S> Hopefully this holds up well.. <S> but I am a DIY person <S> so there is trial and error on my end. <S> Of course I dont think there would have been and issue if I had not used cheap post hole cement. <S> I am just glad I discovered the issue before the structure became wobbly. <A> The 4" to concrete figure you see is a minimum clearance value, and really has nothing to do with the size of the footing required to support a load or prevent twisting or uplift. <S> The size(volume) of the footing is what your engineer calculates out to have adequate mass to support/hold down your structure. <S> One thing I noticed on the spec sheet you linked to: <S> Post bases do not provide adequate resistance to prevent members from rotating about the base and therefore are not recommended for non-top-supported installations (such as fences or unbraced carports). <S> which seems to describe what you are constructing, but I may be misunderstanding, and it may just be Simpson's way of saying 'if it fall over dont call us'. <A> The simposon spec about rotation is so that DIYers don't use their post bases for fences. <S> A pergola is supported at the top in both dimensions, so rotation about the base is much less of a concern. <S> For most reinforced concrete, you want at least 2" clearance between the imbedded steel. <S> With the referenced Simpson imbed, an 8" DIA post base would suffice. <S> The size of the post is irrelevant in this case. <S> Increased depth would be beneficial for any tipover concern and for frost heave concern. <S> Doubtful that a pergolla would load a 8" diameter base enough to cause settlement.
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Get quaility cement and do a wide base to limit lateral breakage IMO.
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Leaking tap after seat recutting I installed brand new Automatic washing machine taps, recut the washer seats & what I thought was impossible, happened... it still leaked. I cut the seats again with a new seat cutter.... still leaks. The seat does not appear to be an insert so I have no other ideas. Anyone have any thoughts? <Q> If they aren't hexed holes then they aren't replaceable, you might have to put a hex bit in to confirm removability. <S> It sounds like you removed too much. <S> If the seats started out like most seats, being proud or raised from the shoulder, but are now flat or even with the shoulder. <S> Then, you took way too much off. <S> Only the seat is your seal, not the entire shoulder. <S> Or, have to go to thicker washers. <S> Or, get new taps with replaceable seats & not touch the included seats. <A> From the statement that you are cutting your own seat seals it says that you have some stock flat stock. <S> Are you sure that the material in use is thick enough for this particular faucet? <S> A couple of other things to consider: <S> These are often much more pliable than the flat stock you cut yourself. <S> Some faucets have an optimum seal that is not an ordinary flat washer style. <S> This may require the selection of a ready made seal specific to that type of faucet. <S> Have you inspected the seat inside the faucet? <S> If it has either mineral build-up or a damaged/pitted surface it may not be easy to get any seal to work correctly. <S> In this case your best bet is often to replace the faucet. <A> Replace the rubber washers - it sounds to me as if they're old and stiffened, possibly cracked or distorted to conform to the original uncut seats.
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You'll either need to get new seats, if they remove. If the seats were scratched, pitted or therefore defective, then you should've put new good ones in instead, if possible or returned the taps. Possibly you may want to try the hardware store to see if they have ready made seals. But, you shouldn't touch the seats unless or until they leak & if you do it should just be a light few turn honing.
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How to install 2x10 joists of slightly different sizes? We are trying to install the joist hangers and the joists, but the 2x10s are slightly different sizes. The problem is that some of the boards are 9.25" and some are 9.5" and some in between. So if all the joists are hung at the same level, then the top of the boards are all at different levels, which would lead to a bumpy deck. How is this best handled? <Q> You could try to return the joists and demand a batch that are the same size. <S> Or shim them, which is less than ideal. <S> As stated in comments, joists can vary in size based on moisture content. <S> Not only that, but they'll expand and contract a bit with moisture changes in the future, as well. <A> Use joist hangers, aligning the tops of the joists so they're all level with each other before you nail the hangers into place. <S> It helps to temporarily clamp a short (about 24" long) 2x4 to the tops of the joists, overhanging the end so you can hang the joist in place in exact alignment with the top of the rim joist. <A> Toenail the joists in place even at the top. <S> Then install joist hangers to permanently attach them. <A> We always level the bottoms (any bow uppermost) and then shim the tops (mostly because in a new build you'll often have joists sitting on walls too, so you get used to the bottoms being spot on and the tops out). <S> Plus we use hangers with a heel plate that tucks underneath the mounting joist. <S> However thats going back decades. <S> We can ask for the joists to be "regularized" at my local supplier and this is where they run them all through their massive band saw and cut them all to the same size; (in the UK at least).
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Use face mount joist hangers and set them so that the tops of the joists are all level.
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What kind of wall bolt/anchor is removeable? What kind of wall bolt/anchor will allow me to remove and replace it as many times as necessary? I am looking to attach a couple of 2x4's flat against a brick wall, however they would only stay there for a few weeks each year. How can I fix them firmly to the wall in such a way that I can put them back each year using the same fixings? I already have some expanding sleeve anchors if they would do. (Nothing should be left sticking out of the wall when the wood is not there) <Q> Expanding sleeve anchors are probably not the best anchor to use for this - they use the bolt to secure the anchor in the hole. <S> Female drop in anchors would likely work much better, as they fasten independently of the bolt. <S> Note that they require a setting tool (although some brands I've used include the set tool in the box of fasteners). <A> You want to get wall anchors that look like this: <S> These are installed into a hole in the brick or concrete wall and would have the internally threaded end just below the surface of the wall. <S> The hole size needs to be accurate and just the right depth. <S> A hammer drill is recommended for making the hole. <S> Installing these does require a special tool that is used like this: Once installed you use regular short stainless steel hex head bolts through holes in your 2x4's that thread into the flush anchors in the wall. <S> You may want to use flat washers under the bolt heads to keep from splintering the wood as the bolts are tightened. <A> Greetings Sparrow a good question. <S> Your sleeve-type anchors should probably work fine. <S> Would not normally be our #1 choice. <S> If the weight would be less than 100 pounds per anchor, you should be fine, just fill the hole as stated below. <S> We use these anytime we anchor to a block or brick wall. <S> http://www.mcmaster.com/#double-expansion-anchors/=yu4jzo <S> You can locate the double acting anchors in a horizontal grout seam, their holding power is massive, even with a 1/4-20 bolt <S> and you can easily re-use <S> the hole time and time again. <S> Any open hole should have something to cover or fill it in 'off' times to keep out bugs, moisture and pesky children. <S> A flat head stainless bolt usually works well. <S> The other two anchors, drop-in and wedge, are used primarily in floors or solid concrete walls. <S> Cheers,Dean
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A double acting anchor would be about the best for this type of application as it requires no setting tool and is less obtrusive to a wall application.
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Importance of plaster repair skills/experience I have an old 1920's house in the Chicago area with many lath-and-plaster walls and ceilings. We are going to be removing a whole-house fan, which will leave a 3' square opening that will need to be patched. There are also a few other spots, such as the area around the thermostat and some electrical boxes that need to be filled. How important is it that I find someone who is skilled at plaster repair? Is it something a typical handyman or painter can handle, or do I need to find a specialist? Also, I've seen several contractors who specialize in plaster and stucco; are they similar skill sets? Should I assume that someone skilled at stucco work is also skilled at plaster work? <Q> Should I assume that someone skilled at stucco work is also skilled at plaster work? <S> No you should not! <A> While this doesn't answer all of the questions, this answer from shirlock homes to a related question says: If you have failing plaster and lathe interior walls, the process is a bit more complicated than just troweling on some new top coat plaster. <S> The scratch coat, or first coat that bonds with "keys" through the lathe. <S> When these keys fail or break off behind the lathe, portions of the plaster will become loose and often fall off the wall. <S> The correct fix is to remove all the compromised material exposing the lathe and apply a new scratch coat creating new keys between and behind the lathes. <S> After that coat cures, then the finish coat is applied. <S> The materials used are completely different for each step. <S> Although it is not a very difficult job, like anything else that is very visible, the quality of the bond and finish are important to the structural soundness and visual appeal. <S> True plastering is becoming a lost art in a world dominated by sheetrock. <S> Plastering is one of those jobs that takes a long time and lots of practice to become proficient at. <S> I certainly wouldn't discourage you from trying, but don't expect perfection on your first attempt. <S> Even though the finish coat is what you see, pay special attention to the scratch coat as that is what holds the surface to the lathe. <S> If the scratch coat fails, a perfect finish coat is worthless. <S> If your project is fairly small, go for it, but if you are looking at a whole room or rooms, it might be worth your time to get an estimate from a pro. <S> With all the time and money you will spend doing a large project yourself and suffering through the learning curve, you may decide your time is better spent on doing something else. <A> The small holes you speak of only need a small piece sheetrock installed in it, then taped and spackled. <S> Any other small hole can be treated pretty much the same way. <S> The plaster coat is typically 3/8" thick over the wood lath and 3/8" thick sheetrock is available at any building supply store, probably available in 2'X2' pieces, so you don't need to buy a whole sheet to do just a small hole. <S> At least the painters we had, would do so.
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Your neiborhood drywall guy can fix this, but you can find a reputable painter that will do this type of small repair as part of their scope of work while they are painting the room.
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Lights turn off when dimmer switch is at 100% I have various dimmer switches around the house. Some of them have an issue that when the lights are at their brightest the lights switch off. When switching the lights on you have to then hold it in to make the lights go just below most bright and it will then not switch off. Sometimes this can be tricky... It's espcially tricky after a power cut when all dimmers default to full brightness again. What is the cause of this? <Q> Your question is lacking details but reading between the lines it seems that you have something similar to the 'touch dimmer' switches which became available in the 1980s. <S> The 'switch' appeared usually as a brushed aluminium plate covering the whole switch box opening (but not touching the mounting screws because that would earth the plate). <S> Touching the plate introduces mains hum into the circuit via body capacitance. <S> This signal is used to trigger adjustment of the lighting level. <S> In your case you have a push-button in place of the capacitive touch plate and electronics. <S> Electro Schematics have a sample circuit which uses the Siemens <S> SLB0586A chip. <S> The OP's dimmers probably use something similar. <S> These chips are analogue electronics. <S> (There are some logic elements in the chip but no CPU, etc., so their not digital in the modern sense.) <S> The dimmer uses a triac to control the power level. <S> These work by delaying the switch-on of the lamp on each half-cycle of the mains. <S> Triggering close to 0° will give full power. <S> Delaying triggering close to 180° will give low power. <S> Dimming by phase angle control using a triac. <S> 100% power is achieved by turning on at 0°. <S> The data sheet for the SLB0586A says that the maximum brightness it puts out is 152° of 180°. <S> i.e., the earliest it will turn on at maximum brightness is 180 - 152 = 28° into the cycle. <S> This isn't as bad as it may sound because the voltage is low at that point of the cycle and doesn't contribute much power. <S> The chip needs to monitor the zero-cross of the mains to get a reference for its timing circuit. <S> The possible clue to the OP's problem is in his comment that he has 12 V halogens fed by transformers. <S> This may be enough to advance the trigger pulse (which in normal operation shouldn't start until 28°, remember?) <S> to before the zero-cross resulting in so little power that the lights appear off. <S> If the OP is still interested in resolving this and can identify the controller chip in one of the dimmers we can have a look at the data sheet and see if there's a fix. <A> If the dimmer controls any recessed lights it may be that the dimmers temperature limit switch is turning the power off to the light. <S> This happens when the bulb is of a higher wattage than the fixture is rated for. <A> Sounds like the dimmers are burnt out. <S> I'd suggest swapping them out for the type that have a slider switch. <S> I'd only install digitals where I'm willing to replace them every few years. <S> If you continue to have problems you might want to go with a resistance dimmer (the oldschool type with a knob) instead of triac dimmers. <S> Then again, if your power keeps burning them out you might want to find out why; power spikes, high/low voltage, transient current, a poor ground, etc. <A> I just ran into this same problem with a dimmer switch connected to a ceiling fan. <S> Turns out that the problem was being caused by current limiting devices now required in ceiling fans in the US. <S> https://www.americanlightingassoc.com/Downloads/Technology/CeilingFanInfo_9-08-1-.aspx <S> These fans are required to limit power going to the lighting to be less than 190 watts, so for a 4 bulb unit each bulb must be less than 32 watts. <S> This same limiting device can also cause high power (eg incandescent) bulbs to blink on/off several times when you first turn them on.
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You may have 'dirty' power and that has shortened the life of your digital dimmers. Transformers are inductive and shift the phase of the current relative to the voltage. Trying a standard switch first will tell you if the rest of the install is in working order.
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Mystery pipes in basement - where do they go? Newbie to the forum here. Will upload photos this evening, but thought I'd start with the question/context: Just bought a fixer upper farmhouse in Portland, OR area. House is at least 1930s, could be older (long story). We also don't know if it was originally post and beam with foundation added later, but it's safe to assume that the house's sewer connection was only added in the late 40s/early 50s when the surrounding farm land became a neighborhood. The house sits on half crawlspace, half unfinished basement. In the basement area, the sewer line leaves the foundation approx. two feet up the wall, then runs approx. 19 feet to the sewer main. A sewer scope has shown this line to be clean. There's an exterior clean-out, but the plumber couldn't find it. Back inside, there is also a basement floor drain ( below the sewer outtake ). It appears to be old galvanized, and does not have a p-trap bypass. To me, this suggests it's not sewer, but after sucking with a shop-vac over the pipe opening it certainly smelled like sewer. I poured ~1 gallon of water down the hole and it drained well. There is a lot of visible debris, though. Additionally, there are two 2" PVC pipes that drop vertically into the floor of the basement ( again, below the sewer outtake ). One is a drain for both the bathroom sink (upstairs) and the washer (in basement); the other appears to be a vent (goes up through the floor), but am still trying to determine. There is no sump/sewer pump in the basement. One last detail: public records of the local sewer system indicate that my property has two sewer laterals. I have no idea where the second one goes, but it appears to be further away from the house. My question(s), then: Is it possible the floor drain and 2" PVC pipes connect to the main sewer line out of the house? Aside from scoping them (the original scope didn't inspect these), is there an easy way to find out? Alternatively, could they go to the second mystery sewer lateral, or to a drywell? Thanks everyone, apologies for the novel. <Q> Thanks everyone for the feedback and tips! <S> Turns out I was able to get a clear answer by calling the sewer company: 1) <S> They looked at their recent scopes and confirmed that our property does indeed have two sewer laterals. <S> They also observed some corrosion and decided to come out and take a look. <S> 2) <S> They brought a truck out to our house and performed a sewer scope - entering from the manhole immediately downstream and running upstream to where our laterals connects to the main line. <S> 3) <S> They then had me run water from every fixture in the house, one after the other. <S> Turns out that all fixtures run to one lateral, confirming that our basement pipes do indeed tie into it somewhere out in the yard. <S> The sewer guys theorized that what the inspector mistook for an exterior cleanout was actually the basement pipes tying in! <S> Our second lateral is "inactive," but is likely an old stormwater drain for our back patio...which may or may not be legal. <S> Thanks again for the suggestions. <S> Glad we got this mystery figured out! <S> Now to determine how old this place is (we have aerial photos proving the home was there prior to the build date on tax records)... <A> Go upstream and dump dye into the water (Fluorescent Green Dye for example) and see where it comes out. <S> Special purpose dye is available, or just use food coloring. <S> With a house that age anything possible, except water running uphill. <A> I had a home from the 30's in Illinois. <S> It had a soak a way for the kitchen sink, bath sink, and bath tub. <S> The septic tank was only for the toilet. <S> It ran out of the side of house about 15' and was a 240 Gallon metal tank with holes in it surrounded by pea gravel. <S> I discovered all of this when I added the cloths washer. <S> The soak away was 15' out the back <S> and 20' long 3' wide and 2' deep filled with wash rock / creek rock. <S> I also have a home in Tenn. that had the washer water drain run into a water way down away from the house. <S> All of these issues were corrected. <S> I would check to see if you have lower elevation around your lot to where it could run.
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Near the sewer main you may find a bidirectional cleanout, and be able to observe the sewer flow.
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Is it ok to screw those red utility hooks into wall studs, or should I use a crossbar between two studs? So, I'm hanging my tools in my garage, the wall is unfinished so I have direct access to studs. I'm using red utility hooks very much like the one pictured below to hang shovels, rakes, a few electric yard tools, etc. The screw end of the hook is probably between a quarter to half an inch wide, so drilling holes and screwing it in takes about 1/3 out of the stud material. Should I instead be installing cross beams between the vertical studs (Make something like an H between the studs) and screw the hook into that? <Q> The hook is going to be inserted horizontally, so the load is mostly shear (downward) on the hook itself. <S> You are in effect compressing the shaft of the hook downward on the bottom of the screw hole. <S> There is some tension pull outward on the wood, but it is minimal for the types of items you listed. <S> Studs made of 2x lumber can easily handle light loads in this configuration. <S> Also, I would not drill several holes, closely spaced, one above the other. <S> While this would still probably hold your loads with little difficulty, it might compromise the integrity of the stud overall. <A> Drilling into the grain of a 2x4 stud might not hold up for very long. <S> The wood will likely split over time, and the strength of the hook with diminish. <S> If you must drill into a stud, first drill a pilot hole the size of the inner diameter of the screw on the end of the hook. <S> I would advise installing a cross beam between studs, like you suggested; you will get more use out of the hooks since the spacing can be customized and the wood will last longer. <A> Structural issues aside, I've put up cross 2x4s for the simple reason that it gives me a whole lot more flexibility as to where I can place the hooks.
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Still though, drill a pilot hole into the cross beams before you install the hook to prevent the wood from splitting. I would not try to hang items weighing several hundred pounds in this manner.
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Peeling latex over oil, do I strip all layers of paint or just the top layer of latex? I'm trying to clean up a painting mess where a friend's tenant painted latex over oil in a couple of rooms. The latex coat was applied maybe 18 months ago. This spring my friend (aka my attorney) asked me to fix the peeling paint in the kitchen and that was weeks of sanding/stripping. I found latex over oil, over wallpaper and glue, layers of spackle and even ketchup stains in the wall. No prep at all just a mess. Eventually I got the paint surface to a reasonable state and put a zinsser oil primer down and then painted. The bathroom was fine 6 months ago and now a peeling mess. Sanding and scraping have removed most of the loose paint, I've hit the wall with a belt sander and heat gun. Underneath there's glue, wallpaper, and maybe 4 coats of paint (yes lead is there I'm sure). But the top coat of latex is mostly gone. My question is I have to assume there's damage to the paint underneath, right? I've no guarantee that prepping/painting on top will maintain since the latex has been tugging at the oil layers underneath? I'm assuming much of the underlying coats will need to come down? Maybe the simplest thing is thin drywall on top of everything else. Any advice welcomed here. My attorney is an awesome dude, takes me out to dinner often and fishing a dozen times a year. So very hard for me not to help when he asks. TIA, Wolfy <Q> I would guess that gut (rip/demo to the studs) and re-rock is likely be the best option here - not only best end result at the paint job, but fastest (if drastic-seeming) route to that paint job. <S> Scraping and stripping are awfully slow compered to rocking and mudding. <A> One solution to take it down as close to drywall as you can, even if the drywall gets damaged. <S> Then skim coat. <S> Then wallpaper over wallpaper liner. <S> Other than re-doing drywall <S> I can't imagine how else you'll get a paintable wall. <S> Especially since it's someone else's. <A> I had the same problem with a layer of latex paint that a previous homeowner had applied over six separate coats of oil paint. <S> It wasn't easy but the results turned out well <S> and I was able to use a latex paint over the wood after I primed it.
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I was able to use a natural orange stripper to remove the paint layers and get down to the hardwood underneath.
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How should I remove baking soda from my carpet? I had an issue with wet carpet in my room. I dried it using clothes and towels as much as I could but after that I put baking soda on it. Google seemed to suggest it was a good idea. I thought you could remove it easily by just vacumming it. But now i find the soda is actually stuck on the carpet. No matter how hard I try, it is impossible to vacumm it. I tried to use a a wooden comb or a scrub but it only had a mild effect. Can someone help me how I can remove this soda from the carpet. I live in rented accomodation so I am freaking out. Someone said use vinegar with a cloth but I am scared now cos i dont wana complicate things further. thanks <Q> If it's not vacuuming out, the issue may be with your vacuum. <S> Check that the bag isn't full and that the brush doesn't need to be lowered for your carpet style. <S> If you're still having difficulty cleaning it, then I'd consider a carpet shampooing wet vac. <S> They can be rented from a variety of stores and pull out a lot of dirt as they vacuum up the cleaning solution. <S> They will leave the carpet damp <S> so you'll want to avoid walking on it for a day if possible and circulate lots of air through the home to allow it to dry. <S> I'd only do this after you have resolved any sources of other moisture in the carpet. <A> Vinegar will just get you CO2 and sodium acetate, a solid. <S> Rubbing with a damp, not wet, cloth should slowly dissolve and take up the baking soda. <S> Be prepared to do plenty of towel wringing and rinsing with a bucket of clean water. <A> Baking soda dissolves in water.
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I would run a carpet cleaning machine over it to dissolve the remaining baking soda and residual water.
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What pressure should I aim for when setting a pressure reducing valve? Since the time I moved into my house, I've had problems with water hammer. More recently, I've had some faucets start to leak. I also noticed that after showers/baths, the hot water would surge when the sink faucet was turned on. After installing water hammer arrestors, and securing all the plumbing. I have reduced, but not eliminated the hammer. As for the surging water after a large hot water demand. I recognized that, as a symptom of a failed expansion tank. In the process of replacing the tank, I took a water pressure reading in order to charge the tank. When I got a reading of 85 psi, I was slightly concerned. Especially when the instructions for the expansion tank, said not to charge the tank over 80 psi. Of course I went directly to the code books, and discovered that codes call for a PRV for pressures over 80 psi. International Residential Code 2012 Chapter 29 Water Supply and Distribution Section P2903 Water-Supply System P2903.3.1 Maximum pressure. The static water pressure shall be not greater than 80 psi (551 kPa). When main pressure exceeds 80 psi (551 kPa), an approved pressure-reducing valve conforming to ASSE 1003 or CSA B356 shall be installed on the domestic water branch main or riser at the connection to the water-service pipe. International Plumbing Code 2012 Chapter 6 Water Supply and Distribution Section 604 Design of Building Water Distribution System 604.8 Water pressure reducing valve or regulator. Where water pressure within a building exceeds 80 psi (552 kPa) static, an approved water-pressure reducing valve conforming to ASSE 1003 or CSA B356 with strainer shall be installed to reduce the pressure in the building water distribution piping to not greater than 80 psi (552 kPa) static. To make a long story short, I'm installing a pressure reducing valve (PRV). However, I'm not sure where I should set it. I've gotten used to the high pressure, and I'm afraid lowering it will be disappointing. At the same time, eliminating water hammer, and not worrying about damaging fixtures would be a good thing. I've searched the internet, and found recommendations anywhere from 40 to 80 psi. Family Handyman says that " ... 45 to 55 psi is ideal. ". I've also found that most PRVs come preset to 50-55 psi. Other sources say that anything over 60 psi, may cause damage to the plumbing system. IRC requires pressure to be above 40 psi, so I know I want to be above that. P2903.3 Minimum pressure. The static water pressure (as determined by the local water authority) at the building entrance for either public or private water service shall be not less than 40 psi (276 kPa). What pressure should I set the pressure reducing valve to? <Q> Assuming metal pipe, I'd set it to about 60, because that's a good compromise between too-high pressure and disappointingly little pressure. <S> That's what most well pumps <S> I've seen are set for, and significantly less than most municipal water systems <S> (I've seen one city water system that delivered 125psi to the house). <S> Much lower than 60psi and you'll be frustrated by the slow flow. <S> With resilient (not PVC/CPVC) plastic pipe, I'd go a little lower than that because unlike metal pipe, which has very strong, secure connections, plastic pipe has only clamp-over-plastic-over-barb connections, which can fail more easily than metal pipe. <S> With PVC/CPVC, I'd go even lower because it gets brittle with age. <A> As is clear from the code languange (and also supported, IIRC by other questions about pressure that have passed through here) <S> So 75-80 PSI should be perfectly acceptable if you like high pressure and have pressure higher than that. <S> 60 would be the "happy medium" between a low of 40 and a high of 80 mentioned in the code language. <S> All residential water piping systems that I'm familiar with have considerably higher pressure ratings <S> (160 @ <S> 73F for much PEX tubing, for instance, dropping to 100 or so at 180F where your hot water lines should never be due to scald potential) - 400-800 PSI for 1/2 & 3/4 copper pipe (type M) <S> so there really is no valid reason to "fear for the pipes" based on water pressure of 75-80 PSI. <S> If your water hammer arrestors are not doing the trick, I have to wonder if they are located and/or sized properly? <S> Water hammer is not a "pressure" phenomenon - it's a "mass flow" phenomenon where the sudden stoppage of a rapidly flowing mass of water in the pipe causes the noise/motion (and a somewhat more legitimate "fear for the pipes.") <S> Arrestors should be located at the ends of lines, especially those lines that serve items with rapidly closing valves (such as solenoid valves in washing machines and dishwashers - but modern 1-lever faucets can also be closed very quickly relative to old multiple-turn two-handle faucets.) <A> In the end, my wife decided she wanted the pressure higher. <S> So I ended up setting the PRV wide open to 75 psi. <S> It's a bit on the high side, but below the 85 psi I started with, and below the 80 psi limit in IRC. <S> Click for larger view
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80 PSI is a typical high limit on devices (especially toilet valves, IIRC) being happy.
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Door jamb wider than wall I wanted to run electric into my mudroom for a ceiling light and a exterior light. Unfortunately the walls were all painted wood paneling so while doing that I figured I would switch to drywall because I had to rip half the stuff down anyway. Plus it looked like garbage. Unfortunately after handing the drywall I noticed the door jamb and window case extends a extra 1/4 out from the wall. Novice mistake of course seeing as this was my first time flying solo. Is there a way in which I can make up this difference when I go to hang moulding or am I going to have to pull down these walls and put up strapping underneath to make up the difference and rehang the drywall? <Q> Consider adding an additional piece of molding outside of the casing to hide the gap. <S> The casing (door and window frame moldings) should be mounted parallel to the drywall (not canted in). <S> They can be shimmed on the outside edge using stock cedar shims every 12" to 15". <S> Nail through the shims and then trim the shims flush to the outside edge of the casing. <S> Then prepare another piece of molding, rectangular in cross section, measuring 3/4 <S> x <S> (thickness of casing + 1/2"). <S> You may be able to find a stock piece, or you could rip it from 1 x material (which is actually only 3/4" thick). <S> The 3/4 edge will face the room and the other dimension will face the shimmed out edge of the casing. <S> The extra half inch is to cover the gap at the wall and to sit forward from the edge of the casing (edges that do not line up flush are said to have a relief , and usually look better). <S> Usually it also looks better to sand the two sharp edges off the face of the new molding, but only on the room side, not the wall side. <S> This is an example of this kind of casing + extra molding. <S> While this casing is flat, the same technique works with more elaborate casings. <A> If the hinge barrels are in the room that had the panelling, it's a tough job. <S> My pick would be to skin the drywall with 1/4" drywall. <S> If the door opens the other way, you can just hit the door jamb with a power plane and make that 1/4" go away. <S> Not sure of the structure of your windows, though. <S> They might not appreciate the planing. <S> If you didn't like either of those ideas, you could find casing that has a 1/4" x 1/2" rebate where it would sit on the jamb. <A> It isn't such an enormous problem, but it might take extra time. <S> First consider how many casings need to be adjusted and if it's plausible to invest the time needed to amend the problem? <S> Time not an issue? <S> Than with a power planer or belt sander remove the door and window edges that are above the drywall surface.
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Removing the new drywall because the window frame edge is a 1/4 inch above the drywall should be the very last solution you should consider. If the surrounding drywall gets marred or damaged shouldn't be critical since you will cover the area with new molding.
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Bathroom vent through existing roof vent I have a roof with two gable vents as well as slanted vents that look a lot like these one: I do not want to install an extra vent specifically for bathroom so I was wondering if I could use one of the existing top ones. It looks like from underneath there is a circular hole that I can push a duct in. The roof vents don't leak so they are solid even with really crazy rain, hale snow etc. Can I install on existing vent? If yes, do I have seal it after pushing the vent in so that no humidity will return back down to the attic? What's the best way to go about doing this? <Q> We've got several things going on here: <S> This is a ridge-mounted, Slant-Back Roof Vent -- it's used to ventilate Attic air to the outside. <S> It should not be used for double-duty for a Bath Fan exhaust. <S> Warm moist Bathroom air will condensate on its underside and can cause moisture damage & mold on the roof sheathing. <S> As a Slant-Back Vent, the original photo shows it installed backwards. <S> The slanted side is installed to the top to shed rain water; unseen in this photo is the screened bottom side (see attached photo). <S> As previously mentioned, most building codes require the Bath exhaust to be vented directly to the outdoors. <S> Attic locations should use insulated duct to reduce condensation problems. <S> If this installation is to be done by an average Homeowner or Handyman, I typically recommend a siding-mounted vent. <S> Retrofit roof vent installations require proper interlacing with roof shingles (not just gobs of tar); a poorly done job will result in a roof leak. <A> Agree that effectively blocking off an existing roof vent is not a good idea for the long term health of the roof. <S> In my experience ventilation is often lacking in that regards already. <S> Also the pipe should be as short as possible; the longer it is the colder <S> it is at the end and the more water vapour will condense on the inside of the pipe rather than being piped outside. <S> Shortest route out is always best. <A> 1) the vent in your picture is installed upside down. <S> The vent will clearly mark which way end is the top of vent for installation purposes. <S> 2) if you want to vent bathroom fans through the roof; use a gooseneck. <S> The gooseneck has a flap that opens and shuts when the fan is on and then turned off. <S> PRIMEX makes the best goosenecks in my opinion. <A> It depends on the hole size under the vent cover. <S> Most of those holes aren't even half the size of the cover. <S> So, enlarging the hole for the bath pipe & larger would have no detriment. <S> Additionally, the roof's or attic's natural flow will ensure that no humidity will blow back or remain inside at all <S> & it'll actually assist the bath fan. <A> I ran a main bath vent to a roof vent for many years after finding the duct terminated in a previously unvented attic. <S> I simply hung the end of the flex duct up under the vent, and did not seal it in any way. <S> It worked fine, and was certainly an improvement over the earlier configuration, with the following caveats: You will see moisture accumulation on the roof deck, which could accelerate decay. <S> Ideally, point the duct directly into the plastic or metal roof vent and avoid wood framing components. <S> You will probably see premature curling or other degradation of the shingles around the vent due to moisture and freeze-thaw cycles. <S> This solution doesn't include a secondary backdraft preventer such as a purpose-built roof or wall vent would typically provide. <S> You're relying solely on the one included with the fan housing. <S> This is certainly not best practice or code-compliant. <S> Do it with that in mind, you home improvement renegade.
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The exhaust ducts can discharge through the roof, soffit or gable siding -- but a dampered Vent Hood should be installed as well.
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How close to beam edge can I put light fixture nails? I removed a 10-15 lb light from my ceiling. Beneath, the electrical box was at an odd angle: So I pulled that off as well, which revealed this hole. Those nail holes which were holding in the box and, therefore the light, look like they're pretty close to the edge of the beam. That makes me wonder: Were they unsafe? Is there a code specifying how far into a beam screws should go? <Q> The NEC code says that a box should be adequately supported. <S> In your example the box was secured adequately just not properly. <S> Proper installation would only allow the necessary overhang to flush up with the ceiling. <S> As for nails being too close to the edge, this should never be an issue if the installer were to follow the directions, know the NEC codes on luminare box support, and the structural integrity of the object they are attaching the box to. <A> yeah. <S> It was installed incorrectly. <S> It looks like a plastic box that was screwed through the box wall. <S> That's what caused it to become slanted. <S> It should have a metal mounting plate riveted to it. <S> Or a extendible bracket to span between joists. <S> Either way, now that it's removed re-install the correct type of ceiling box. <A> The box in question was a "new work" nail on box. <S> It looks like somebody removed the box before by breaking it off from the blue piece on the right side. <S> There is also a nail on the left that is in the correct spot for the nail that would have held it on the left, but it has no blue fragment. <S> , did what they needed to do and reset the box in place with the 2 nails you found which allowed the box to teeter out the way it did. <S> No it was not safe for the retrofit nails in the position as they were for the weight of the light you have. <S> Here is the picture I added after my answer was posted... <A> To answer your questions.1. <S> No the box did not look like it was install correctly because the box was not made to have the nails in it.2. <S> No it is not a code violation to put a box next to a beam or on a beam, as long as the box is made for that application. <S> You can go to the big box store and get a Mounts to the side of beam or between beams Plastic New Construction Ceiling Box (Blue Box with wings and two nails) <S> Plastic New Construction Hanger Ceiling Box (Blue box with metal support that nails to two beams and the box slides where you want it. <S> Metal Remodel Ceiling Box(one like on your other post) <S> Ect... <S> Mounts to the beam. <S> Metal New Construction Ceiling Electrical Box (Box is made to straddle the beam and screw in to it.) <S> Metal Pancake Box. <S> (Small Box made to screw to beam but not stick out from the sheet-rock) <S> Ect....
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Plastic New Construction Ceiling Electrical Box (Box is made to straddle the beam and screw in to it.) My thought is somebody removed the box, a bit too forcibly, breaking the mounting This means the installer should read and follow directions provided by the box manufacturer.
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Unsure if structure is solid concrete My home was built in 1957. It has a 10x10 3foot high brick patio with a concrete slab on top. We are replacing the deck which is much bigger. The deck on the slab rotted due to water pooling in a small area on the slab. My question is, is that whole patio solid, because we'd like to drill drainage holes to remedy this problem. Can you help? <Q> Drilling through a concrete slab for water drainage , if not done correctly, could lead to bigger headaches. <S> If you need to correct the low area were the water pools it might be better to cut drain kerfs with a circular saw and a masonry blade. <S> This would entail cutting a narrow channel that is pitched slightly to the nearest edge of the slab. <A> While you don't want water pooling, ideally, the deck shouldn't have been in direct contact with the water in the first place. <S> ojait's suggestion is a good one (drain kerfs). <S> Another option -- if it's not one monolithic slab is to mud-jack the patio slabs so that there's a proper slope for drainage. <S> Regardless, the key is to make sure your deck's wood isn't in direct contact with the slab. <S> It needs some form of separation (which could be as simple as some concrete piers). <S> As other's have stated already, it's not likely solid concrete for 3' and drilling a "drainage hole" is a bad idea. <A> It's far more likely to be constructed with brick stemwalls all around, filled with dirt & rocks, and topped with a relatively thin (4" to 6" thick) slab; that's much more economical, since dirt & rocks are far cheaper than concrete. <S> But... I could be surprised. <S> I actually own a house <S> that has poured-concrete basement walls fully 24" thick. <S> That's an astounding amount of extra concrete, rendering the basement nuke-proof, and it cost somebody tall dollars for no really good reason.
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It's very unlikely to be fully solid to the ground - that would be more than nine yards of (expensive) concrete.
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Does it matter whether a bedroom door swings in or out of the room? I am looking to install french doors to help brighten the room just outside of a basement bedroom I am currently planning (egress window added and all per building codes). All the other existing bedrooms in my house have doors which swing into the room. However, having the french doors swing out of the bedroom into a larger main room (not a hallway) makes the most sense to me for this bedroom since swinging into the bedroom would make me have to place the light switch further away from the door to keep the doors from obstructing access to the switch. Also, when I think about it, it seems like every bedroom of every house I can remember has in-swing doors. But then, almost all of the bedrooms I remember also come off of a hallway of some sort where an door that swings into the hall would be an obstruction. I primarily want to know if I would be breaking convention or some aspect of code/saftey which I have otherwise missed to install a door which swings out of a bedroom. One benefit I can think of for having in-swing doors is that an obstruction in front of the door wouldn't prevent someone inside the bedroom from opening the door. <Q> There is no code that tells you that your bedroom doors need to swing in for a bedroom. <S> as you mentioned the doors present an obstruction in spaces. <S> In hallways it might even be comical to wind your way around 7 open doors from both sides. <S> when you are talking about privacy the doors have swung in because of the hinge side would be protected. <S> For instance if you locked your door and the hinges were out <S> someone could just knock the pegs out of the hinges and release your door. <S> and safety wise there is always a chance that someone will open a door on someone else. <S> But not many people stand next to the door in their own room. <S> But people could be passing by where ever <S> and you could hit them. <S> This should be thought about in your case. <S> aesthetically speaking you will be showing the hinges on the outside. <S> I know it isn't a huge thing but a small design factor. <S> I have to say I have finished maybe close to 50 basements now (got to be close) and one of my favorite designs for a smaller basement is simply storage room with the bathroom towards the front and the other side is huge living room with an "extra" room with french doors in the back. <S> Extra room is big enough to house a pool table but could easily be converted into a bedroom (often we have a walk-in closet going from extra room to storage room). <S> We usually have the French doors swing out to the living room. <S> If the living room is small though we swing them in. <S> is going to be next to the French doors on each side of the room. <S> (On really small rooms we use double pocket doors) <S> Another note: <S> Come to think of it the doors themselves play a big part of inside or outside. <S> If I have some nice doors - especially the wooden vintage french doors we clean up - well these open out. <S> Because we want to showcase the door. <A> To avoid the possible hazards and disadvantages of a door that opens into the bedroom, and not obscure the wall switch as you open the door, either reroute the wiring to put the wall switch on the entry wall, or hinge the door to swing in the other direction. <A> You have to use your common sense here because there is no code on interior doors. <S> If your worried about security, they make security hinges that are tamper proof, and can't be unhinged from the outside, but normally in a family home, who cares. <S> Outswing doors tend to slow down an intruder while you load your gun. <S> For exterior doors, if you live in snow country, then always use inswing doors.then snow can't stop you from opening the door and getting out during a fire.
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It really depends on the opening, if the door has room to swing outward without damaging walls or hitting furniture during a fire, I always use outswing doors. If it is some big box generic french door set, we hide them in the room. But it is usually not a good idea for them to swing out. This is highly dependent on what you feel
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Correct wiring of float switch into two pole contactor for well pump I have a Mars 780 61347 two pole 30A contactor: I am using this contactor to control a 220V well pump that fills a cistern. I then have a float switch in the cistern which, when closed, should cause the well pump to kick on and fill the cistern. I have a 30A 2P breaker in the box that feeds the bottom of the contactor. The top of the contactor is wired to the pump. If it matters, these wires are attached to the contactor using the screws and not the gold contacts that can be seen in the picture. The contactor has two silver contacts on it that appear to be for energizing the coil, one on each side. How do I wire the float switch into this setup? Thanks in advance. Float Switch If it matters, the float switch I have is a SJE Pumpmaster: http://www.sjerhombus.com/ses-controls-float-switches-details.php?ID=50&ID=49 The Rest of the Story I wanted to respond to some of the comments for posterity's sake. If you don't know what "in series" means, you probably shouldn't be doing electrical work. I understand what it means in general but was somewhat confused by this setup and how to apply "in series" to the current situation. The reality was that I wasn't actually doing the work myself. The guys who dug my well were installing all of this equipment. I didn't always trust the work they were doing so I was asking them to explain things to me. When the installer explained how he was going to wire the contactor, he told me he was only going to have one wire going to the coil and leave the other side without any wire connecting to it. That seemed very wrong to me, but he said b/c it was 220, it would "just work." I highly doubted that and posted here to confirm the correct way to wire it. By the time he was finished, he realized he made a mistake and had it wired like @Tester101's diagram. Per Tester101's comment, why are you using a contactor at all? What type and size of well pump (submersible, jet pump) and is it currently hard-wired or plugged-in? Also, what is the model of the float switch you have? Hopefully it's a "PMU" model (pump-up), but they also have versions with and without plugs (which is why I ask). All of these will potentially dictate the best way to wire this up. I'm using a contactor because the well installers said that is the way it should be done. They explained that the float switch wiring was too small to run the pump's current through that wire. It's a 3/4 HP submersible pump that they have wired using 10 gauge wire. The float switch model is linked to above. <Q> Or, in bad ASCII art: <S> ----------[float <S> switch]--------- | |240V [coil] <S> | | --------------------------------- <A> The picture below is how the well installer ended up wiring the contactor. <S> Note the real setup has a Pumptec installed between the contactor and well pump. <S> I left this out of the question originally to simply the question and because I knew how it should be wired in. <S> breaker / power source: <S> gray sheathed wire coming into box from the left to Pumptec: black & white wires going up Well pump (from Pumptec): wires coming down from Pumptec and then continue down through the bottom of the box go to the well. <S> Float-up switch: <S> black sheathed wire coming in from the bottom. <S> The black lead is connecting to the left side coil contact and the white lead is connecting to the bottom right terminal. <S> Jumper wire: white wire connecting bottom left terminal to right side coil terminal on the contactor. <S> The key for me in understanding this was that the contactor coil could be operated off 220v and didn't need a neutral. <A> In general, the circuit will look something like this <S> Though you may need a resistor in line (" in series ") with the coil. <S> The documentation for the float switch says it can directly control a 1 hp pump at 230V, so I'm not sure why you're using the contactor at all. <S> You might be able to simplify the setup, and remove the contactor. <S> Then you'd wire it up like this
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Wire the float switch and contactor coil just as if you were wiring a light fixture controlled by a wall switch.
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Can buried gas pipe conduct flame between two structures? If my detached garage has natural gas connection to the house via a buried black pipe and if the house got caught on fire, can that pipe, say 25' in length, conduct the flame to the garage so that it catches on fire with no other source of ignition? I was thinking that a buried pipe should not be able to do that because fire requires air, which is not available inside a buried pipe. Correct me if wrong. <Q> The possibility of the natural gas line transmitting the fire is extremely close to zero. <S> Yes natural gas requires air, about 20% mixture of gas and air (more air than gas). <S> Getting that mixture in a closed pipe, along the entire pipe, would near impossible without some pre-mixing first before the fire. <S> Also if fires could be transmitted via the gas pipe lines, entire cities would be at risk if just one house caught fire. <A> A gas pipe is filled with nearly 100% flammable gas—at least under normal conditions. <S> Propane and natural gas need to be mixed with air (or oxygen) to be combustible. <S> The ideal combination for natural gas is 1 part fuel (by volume) to 9.7 parts dry air. <S> A mixture of more than 15% (1 to 6.67) <S> natural gas is not combustible! <S> So, no. <S> Under normal conditions, a flame applied to one end of the gas pipe would not be conducted anywhere. <A> In normal circumstances no. <S> But. <S> As mentioned, gas is not combustible in the way it's normally transmitted. <S> Then maybe boom. <S> This is why in the UK Gas Safe builders are trained about this risk. <S> This is also why you sometimes hear on the news about a whole street exploding due to the gas main going up. <S> This is how that happens. <S> Just make sure all your pipework is purged subsequent to doing any diy on it.
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But if the pipe has air in it because it was vented prior to some work, gas is turned back on, the air mixes with the gas to become combustible. If there should be any work done on pipework close to your connector pipe, it must be purged of all air.
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How should I deal with a full ground bus bar in an electrical panel? My (main) GE panel's ground bus bar is full. Is it better form to a) put multiple ground wires in the same hole b) put some of the ground wires in the neutral section My research seems to suggest that either option is safe and code-legal. Is one considered a better approach? Some people seem to be wary of putting ground wires in the same hole, but this seems to just be a misapplication of the rules for neutral wires? <Q> Seeing that this is your main panel the ground bar, neutral bar and the metal of panel should be bounded, usually with a bonding screw, in some way. <S> Now with that said, if you don't want to do that, why not add another ground bar if you have the space? <S> If you look at the sides, top or bottom of the panel you may see holes (with a ground symbol) for another ground bar to screw down to. <S> If you see this turn off the power and add the bar. <A> There is no "misapplication of the rules for neutral wires" since neutral and ground are two different wires with two VERY different purposes, regardless of the fact that they connect to the same place in the main panel. <S> A main panel does not typically have separate neutral and ground bars, so if yours are separate then someone either needlessly put them on separate bars, or they added a dedicated ground bar. <S> A photo of your panel would clarify this. <S> Either way, either of your choices is FINE and a safe and legal solution. <S> There is NO problem with putting two, or even sometimes three, ground of the same size into one hole in a ground/neutral bar. <S> As you know, the same is NOT true for neutrals. <S> A third option as War stated is to add a new ground bar to the back of the panel. <S> Add-on bars screwed to the back of a panel box are to used for grounds ONLY. <A> Make sure you check your ground bus literature. <S> I have yet to see one that allows more than 2 grounding wires under one screw, and as previously mentioned they must be the same size when putting more than one under the same screw.
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So putting the new ground wires on the neutral bar is okay.
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Attach partition wall to lath and plaster wall I am looking to add a small closet (2×4 ft) in the corner of a room with lath and plaster walls. I would like to frame in two sides and attach it to the existing wall. Do I have to limit myself to the existing stud locations to anchor the new walls or is there a way to add another stud without destroying the existing wall? <Q> To answer the original question, the studs at either end of the closet will not need to define the dimensions. <S> The stud at either can be screwed in place. <S> Do not use nails. <S> The vibration from setting the nail will break off the keys of plaster that hold the plaster up on the wall. <S> Use enough screws to increase the chances of finding the wood lath to secure the last stud in the wall. <S> The top and bottom plates as mentioned in other answers will do the rest. <S> To address another valid issue that was brought up about direction the walls over the joists. <S> If the side the door is hinged happens to sit on or near a joist, the better the support for the wall. <S> Half the weight on the shelves will be supported by one of the existing walls the other at the back existing wall and a bit on the new wall. <S> If the floor that the closet is built on has subfloor, all the better. <A> The problem that is encountered is when you are installing the partition top plate at the ceiling. <S> If the location of the wall doesn't line up plumb with a joist you will need to install bridging across the ceiling joists first at 16 inch intervals. <S> The bridging will allow you to secure the top plate between two joists <S> so the closet wall can be located according to your preferences and not by the buildings framing. <S> You will have to open portions of the ceiling to install the 2 x 4 inch blocks between joists. <S> They should be flush with the ceiling surface when completed. <S> 3 inch screws will hold better than nails and allow for any adjustments if needed. <A> If the new wall's top and bottom plates are nailed into ceiling and floor joists, it's self-supporting and does not need a structural connection to the wall it butts up against.
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If the long wall is across the joists, and portions of the wall that are supported by these joists will be fine. Actually, the wall should be so light in weight there will be, or should be, little or no concern.
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How can I store Latex paint for the long term - a decade or longer? So I have a bunch of partially used latex paint in 1 gallon and 5 gallon buckets. How could one store and keep the paint viable for years to come? Could I just vigorously shake the buckets once a year or so? For now I store the paint in my basement. <Q> I put paint <S> I glass jars and stored it for 10 years <S> it mixed right up. <A> The problem with trying to keep latex paint fresh isn't with the paint itself, but with the paint container. <S> From wait I've noticed is the metal containers because of the water mixed in with the paint, will eventually oxidize the metal. <S> Usually the rusting continues until the can is compromised and the paint solidifies. <S> A garbage bag would do. <S> Remove all paint (dried or not) from the lid well (groove). <S> Place the new seal on the can followed by the lid. <S> Gently tap the lid until completely seated. <S> Invert the can to help increase the seal. <A> I use plastic containers and the smallest size to store the amount of paint I have, cutting down on the air stored with the paint. <S> I like the protein powder and kids vitamin containers. <S> Those are 1/2 gallon and 1 pint sizes. <S> I have found that if you think the paint with any tap water, don't even bother; stuff will grow in it. <A> I use the Arizona plastic bottles, they are strong & have a twist off cap on top. <S> Simply use a large funnel to transfer the paint into it.
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The best way to preserve a gallon of paint would be to add a plastic or rubber membrane so as to increase the seal between the can and lid.
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What kind of drain rod do I need to get around this bend? Had to have this drain unblocked professionally the other day, because I don't have the right kit. It blocks yearly, and so I'd like to be able to sort this myself. The problem is, that the drain pipe goes in the direction of the arrow, away from the wall as shown in the picture below. My drain rods are not flexible enough to get around the corner with the wall being where it is, but the professional I got in the other day seemed to have a thinner, more flexible type of drain rod. I searched on line, but could only find standard rods. Is there a particular name for this type of rod that might help me to source one? (I'm in the UK if that's relevant) Thanks <Q> Not sure where you're from, but here in the US we'd use a plumber's snake (also known as a " drain auger ", or simply " snake ", or " auger ") to clear the drain. <S> A snake is quite flexible, and should have no problem getting into that drain. <S> You might, however, have to remove the drain cover to get the snake in (depending on the size of the snake). <S> "Handheld-Drain-Auger" by Pgdp123 - Own work. <S> Licensed under CC BY 3.0 via Commons <A> They normally come with 3 sets of rods, a clearing wheel and a drop scrapper, this type of set was manufactured to be used on any type of structured pipes and based on the width of the pipes that you mentioned, these are thinner and they should be able to move and bend within your plumbing system. <S> I hope this was helpful. <A> You could try using a power washer attachment. <S> They'll be much more flexible, get around the corner easier, and you won't have to force it at that awkward angle. <S> E.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VLIy5n1q1I
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Try using the universal drain rods that most plumbing supply stores offer.
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Safe and low-liability way to determine whether a circuit draws more current than allowed? When I saw several electricians commenting on not knowing of a tool which tests peak current draw from an outlet in this question: " Is the Electrician trying to scam me? ", it made me wonder: Is there is a safe and low-liability way to determine whether a circuit allows pulling more current than the circuit is rated for by code without inspecting all of the wires on the circuit? Note: This question is for situations where someone may have illegally tapped off of a high-amperage circuit to power a lower-amperage circuit and you cannot tell whether the circuit was wired correctly simply by looking at the wire gauge at the breaker panel/box. E.g. If someone illegally splices a wire for a series of kitchen outlets (20A max) to the circuit for an electric range (e.g. 30A). <Q> TL;DR: <S> There is not a 100% safe or 0-liability option to intentionally pull more current through a circuit than allowed by applicable codes. <S> The cheapest design I can think of is a non-contact clamp ammeter that graphs current clamped to a piece of thick gauge wire. <S> Turn off power to the circuit and then short the thick gauge wire between the outlet terminals. <S> Flip the breaker back on to let it trip and then look at the max current pulled. <S> However, this seems like a huge liability should the circuit pull significantly more current than its rated capacity because it could overheat and either immediately start a fire or pose a potential fire hazard in the future. <S> I personally would never do this and never recommend it since it seems like the test poses too much of the hazard you would be trying to prevent. <S> The next design I can think of creating also uses a clamp ammeter that graphs current clamped around a wire to a test load. <S> You would create/buy a series of test loads sized to pull just a little more current than the circuit's wire gauge should allow if the circuit is wired correctly and operating normally (e.g. the circuit breaker isn't fault), but not so much as to pose a significant fire hazard over a short period of time. <S> As an example: Use a 5 ohm power resistor inside of a high-heat insulated enclosure to limit current to 24 amps through a 120V / 20A circuit. <S> Similar to the first design, you would turn off power to the circuit, plug the test load into the outlet, restore power, and then remove power if the over-current protection device does not turn off power to the circuit within a second. <S> However, I don't have the data to support that this is 100% safe and it still seems like you could potentially be opening yourself up to future liability as an electrician by performing a test this way. <S> I therefore could not recommend either of these methods or any method that intentionally pulls more current through a circuit than allowed by the applicable codes because there is always some room for liability if you accidentally damage the wiring by pulling more current through the circuit than allowed. <A> There's no safe way I'm aware of to test if the wires installed are able of supporting the safety equipment that's connected to them, short of physically verifying the gauge of the wire. <S> In fact, many fixture wires can't support 15-20 amps even though they are plugged into a receptacle or attached to an outlet that can. <S> These wires rely on the fixture or appliance not pulling more than the wire safely provide. <S> E.g. you don't wire the inside of a 5 watt night light with enough copper to support 20 amps because the night light itself <S> shouldn't pull more than 0.05 amps. <S> From the perspective of the circuit breaker, there's no way to know the difference between the night light and the wiring inside the wall. <S> You can also shutoff power to all but the high amp breakers and check for any lights or receptacles that are receiving power. <S> Both of these test should be performed with a non-contact tester if possible. <S> The clamp on amp meters are good for determining why a breaker is tripping, or to verify that it is tripping when current exceeds the safe minimum, but less useful to tell if there's an illegal tap since current needs to travel through the wire to be tested. <S> It could be placed on an outlet with a high usage to see if that usage exceeds the safe minimum. <S> But if you measure at the breaker and a separate circuit has been tapped, it wouldn't tell you that power is traveling through that other circuit. <A> I would either selectively shut off every circuit and label each outlet affected until all outlets and fixtures were accounted for or I would use a circuit tracer to positively locate every circuit. <S> It is simply a matter of locating all the connected loads for every circuit breaker in the panel and that is very doable. <S> Also, inexpensive circuit tracers and voltage testers suitable for this task <S> are in stock at most hardware stores. <S> I once found the exact situation you describe in a house that I owned. <S> Some yahoo had remodeled the bathroom and spliced the bathroom sink receptacle to one leg of a 50amp range circuit within the middle of a wall. <S> It was a seriously hazardous condition.
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If you are worried about improper taps between circuits, you can try shutting off all the breakers, and then one by one turning on a breaker and checking for voltage on the hot wire of all the other powered off breakers.
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Why is my outlet voltage abnormal? I just moved to a house which was built in 1958 (almost 60 years ago). One GFCI outlet has the indicator light on but no power when plug in appliance.So I opened it and measured the voltage with a multimeter. It is very strange. See below diagram: I guess A and B is input line whilst C and D is output line to other outlets.When I measure it, I have removed the GFCI receptacle. Why A and D still has 5.5v? And I didn't find ground line from the outlet. If I connect A,B to LOAD and C,D to LINE of the GFCI receptacle my receptacle indicator light is on but recepacle itself is always off. When I press the reset/test button there is no effect. I still cannot figure out what's wrong. <Q> If A and B are the wires coming from the breaker, they should be connected to the LINE terminals of the GFCI. <S> C and D; that go off to serve other loads , should be connected to the LOAD terminals. <S> If when connected properly, the GFCI will not reset. <S> It means that the GFCI device is dead, and needs to be replaced. <S> A low impedance voltmeter could be used to rule out phantom (ghost) voltage. <A> That you have voltage between A and D would indicate that you have, what we used to call in the phone business, a high resistance open. <S> One of the outlets downstream from your GFCI outlet has (probably) corrosion (high resistance) between neutral (white) and ground. <S> This will cause a ground fault and trip the GFCI. <S> (Insects can also cause a high resistance ground.) <S> If there is none, then it's in the wall, and you should probably hire an electrician. <A> It sounds like the GFCI outlet itself is bad. <S> Replace it. <S> It's certainly the easiest thing to do. <S> If that doesn't work, then you probably have a problem with the wire between the outlet and the breaker panel. <S> Look for breaks, scorches, corrosion, etc. <S> I guess A and B is input line whilst <S> C and D is output line to other outlets <S> You are likely correct. <S> A GFCI outlet can protect itself and any devices wired to the LOAD terminals on the back. <S> The measurement from A to D is meaningless and not indicative of a problem. <S> If you test any two ungrounded metal items anywhere in your house, you will certainly find similar voltages all over the place. <S> For example, a fork on your kitchen counter and a fork on the floor may read a voltage between them.
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The light being on on the GFCI indicates a ground fault, which is why the outlet has no power. Since C & D are " floating ", the 5.5 volts could be phantom voltage induced by other electrical lines in close proximity to these lines, or any other magnetic field. However, since lines C & D have no reference to the electrical system (floating), don't expect a meaningful reading. I suggest opening all the downstream outlets and checking for corrosion, including in the outlet itself.
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How can I hang a poster on a metallic surface? I want to put a poster on the sliding door of my closet, but the doors are metallic, so I can't really punch holes in them. Also, it goes behind the other door when it slides, so the system holding it cannot be much thicker than the poster itself or the other door won't be able to slide in front of it. Ideally, it needs to be held as flat as possible and with as little spacing between the poster and the door, as sagging could cause the poster to be torn when the other door slides back and forth in front of the poster. <Q> If it would work use magnetics. <S> For supper flat use scotch tape, and tape the corners, or you could use poster adhesive strip but that will rase the edges a little. <A> Usually a piece in each corner the size of a dime has been more than enough to hang my posters in college. <A> I go with these <S> These function like universal velcro, that is,there is no hook side and one loop side. <S> I tend to hang large, relatively heavy posters. <S> These are superior to tape which may cause tears. <S> I'd recommend putting the strips inside the corners by an inch or two ( depending on the size) to you won't see the edge of the strip. <S> Plus, you can pull the poster off the door and readjust to make it square faster <S> then re-taping it, should it not go on perfectly square the first time. <S> These aren't as thin as just using tape, but the thickness is negligible, a few millimetres.
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For posters, I've always had the best luck with the blue colored varieties of sticky-tac or similar non-permanent doughy adhesives.
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What size air hose would a mechanic's garage require? I'm looking for a retractable air hose for my husband as a birthday present...he is an airplane mechanic and has many air tools, also has a large air compressor already (not sure of the hp, but it is 220 volt). I have my eye on a unit called Zillareel that offers 150 psi,(another unit offers 300 psi) would that be enough to psi to supply the air for anything my husband would need? <Q> You need to understand the pressure figures you are referring to. <S> What you are probably referencing is the pressure rating of the reel units, this is the pressure they can operate at safely (without the hose bursting or some other unfortunate dangerous failure). <S> The air delivery capacity will be expressed by a quantity per unit of time, like "liters per minute" or "cubic feet per minute". <S> Can you find out what pressure he operates his unit at? <S> If I were you I would default to the old idea that "bigger is better", or just ask him which one he would like. <S> Most men very much appreciate nice tools for gifts, whether or not it is a suprise. <A> 150 PSI is supposed to be fine for most tools and compressors because most are rated for 125 PSI. <S> But a lot of shops like to run at a little higher PSI like 150 <S> + because it gives the tool more power. <S> The PSI rating of the hose needs to be higher than what he runs his tools at. <S> I would recommend the 300 PSI one because in addition to higher pressure, it is probably more durable because it has thicker sidewalls. <S> When I read 'size' in the question title, I immediately thought about the inner diameter (ID) of the hose. <S> A lot of people/mechanics/shops overlook the diameter of the hose, but it robs them of power at the top end of performance which is exactly where you need the power! <S> Get as large of an inner diameter (ID) as you can afford. <S> It will be listed like (in increasing size order) <S> 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", etc. <S> And of course, longer is better too! <A> Thank you Zach... <S> you brought up a point that I had not thought of asking, I didn't think about the inner diameter, and I will put 1/2 size (or larger) on my shopping list! <S> Also will look for 300 psi-- <S> I appreciate the time you took to answer my question, I have learned some good info from you! <S> Thanks again to you, and Jimmy Fix <S> -it(that guys like tools whether surprise, or not)! <S> This is a great site, and I will keep it bookmarked for any future questions I might have!!
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Generally, larger hose can deliver more air and some types of tools need a lot of air (like rotary air tools).
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What type of wall sheathing is on my house? My house sheathing is not a plywood - but some dark brown material. Click for larger view Does anyone know what that is? P.S. here's more higher quality images: pic1 pic2 pic3 <Q> It was made by Celotex as well as some other companies. <S> I don't know that it's manufactured anymore, however I viewed the link from the previous answer and it appears it could be the same thing. <S> If your house is older then it is probably the original buffalo board material. <A> The generic name is "fiberboard" and it is sold under many trade names like Celotex, Buffaloboard, etc. <S> This stuff is not bad at all, it's just different from plywood and OSB. <S> While plywood and OSB are structural and offer substantial racking resistance against wind load, fiberboard is weaker and does not increase the strength as much. <S> On the plus side, it is basically impervious to moisture due to the chemical additives, so it will never rot or grow mold. <S> It is also highly vapor-permeable, enhancing drying to the exterior should the wall get wet. <S> Also, it is a reasonable insulator, around R-3 per inch. <S> So half-inch fiberboard adds R-1.5 to your whole house. <S> Not bad. <S> Finally, I can tell you from personal experience that termites don't like it. <S> They'll eat wood all around it but won't touch it. <A> This looks like what we call "asphalt board", a kind of impregnated wood fiber board. <S> Example
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It comes under the nickname Buffalo board and Beaver board depending on where you're at. If it is newer it could very well be the exact same thing that is sold at Home Depot mentioned in the link that was provided in the first answer .
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8 channel camera system - can i put more than 8 cameras? I purchased a lorex 8 channel camera security system http://m.costco.com/Lorex-8-Channel-IP-NVR-with-2TB-HDD,-8-1080p-Cameras-with-130-Night-Vision.product.100217003.html . Everything works fine however, I would like to add additional cameras. Can this be done using a POE switch? The POE switch comes with 5 ports and 4 additional cameras: https://www.lorextechnology.com/HD-IP-camera/1080p-HD-IP-Security-Cameras-with-PoE-Switch-4-Pack/prod1040002.p . When I look in the manual and on the site it says the device works for LNR Series camera systems. The manual is very vague on this topic. A local installer here says you can install but lorex customer support says you cannot. Im not sure who is right in this situation. If you read online the channel size indicates the number of cameras. Mine is 8 channels which tells me 8 cameras...but if I use a POE switch can I not just add additional cameras? <Q> Answer is no... <S> I have the same setup as you. <S> I tried adding 9th camera (wireless) <S> It recognizes it <S> but i can only add it if i remove one of the existing cameras <S> so it looks like they put a limit on how many streams it can take <S> and it could be because hardware limitation. <A> Without any knowledge of this particular product, I'm going to say: maybe. <S> The limitation isn't how many Ethernet ports you can string together <S> (answer: nearly infinite) but how many video streams the DVR can handle. <S> It simply may not be able to physically handle more than 8 video streams. <S> Also, the vendor may have put a limit in the software to not allow more than 8 video streams. <S> The only way to know for sure is to get a 9th camera and try it out for yourself. <A> It will not work. <S> If you want such an arrangement, it's either you buy 16 channel NVR with eight ports, then you buy 8 port PoE switch. <S> Now you populate your NVR with the cameras, then you add the additional camera to the PoE. Connect the PoE switch to the NVR. <S> That's the surest way. <S> But if its 8 port NVR but supports 16 cameras, that arrangement can work.
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If originally the NVR can pick 8 cameras, you cant exceed the 8 channel
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What is the easiest way to cut a 2 inch groove in concrete? I have a 5 foot wide concrete side-walk running next to my house. I want to cut a 2 inch groove from the wall to the yard in order to run a PVC irrigation pipe from the faucet on the wall to the trees. The primary question is: What is the easiest way to cut that groove into the side-walk? (i.e. what tool will I need and how do I use it?) Other questions: Can you think of a better way to run irrigation from the faucet (that you see further down the wall) into the garden? What other problems am I going to run into and how can they be avoided? <Q> I'd try to go through the slab and then below it. <S> Most slabs are 6" thick with gravel underneath. <S> You can rent a concrete core drill for around $60 from home depot. <S> Then you can use something called a 'sidewalk sleever' to tunnel under the slab. <S> Then install pipe (a little tricky due to the elbow, and fill your hole back up with gravel. <S> The end result will be much prettier and do less damage to your slab. <A> You will need a concrete saw that has about a 12 or 14" diamond blade to cut all the way through the slab. <S> These are a rental item. <S> Ask the guy at the counter what would be the size of blade you need to cut it. <S> These type of saws can have water feed to the blade so the blade stays cool, which is a safer way to cut, and practically eliminates all the dust generated by the cutting, safer still. <A> To cut the Cement is really easy. <S> just use a grinder with a diamond blade. <S> it will ease through the cement. <S> Just watch out for possible pipes. <S> (easy to rent) <S> You can just run two straight lines on each side of the cut. <S> when done get a large hammer and chisel and break the center cement away. <S> should take no more than an hour. <S> When you are done, you can get a premix cement and fill up. <S> The only problem you will have is cracking (on such a neat cut) I am not in an ice/snow country <S> so I dont know how cold conditions will affect your slab <S> , you need to look into that. <S> However I would chip away a few chunks off the clean cut face to ensure the new cement gets some bite!
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Stick a hole in your slab.
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How do I remove wet latex paint from carpet? I have just stepped into latex paint and walked onto the carpet by accident. I haven't done anything yet it just happened. How do I remove the paint from my carpet? <Q> You will be OK, it's only latex paint and you have time on your side. <S> Pour a bit of water on the dry paint to reactivate it. <S> Use a dry towel to dab the paint spot unit it goes away. <S> If the paint has been there awhile and has started to setup or if dabbing isn't doing the trick, you will have to scrub it. <S> You can try warm water and a mild dish soap too. <S> Warning: <S> Some people may advise rubbing alcohol or other solvents, be careful as these may strip the color or even melt the carpet depending on what your product is. <S> Still no luck? <S> Try a professional carpet cleaner machine; the hot water and brushes will help scrape the paint out. <S> Edit: found a nice video for you. <A> Blot up what you can with paper towels, rags, etc. <S> Wash and rinse a lot - use a wet vacuum to get the rinse water up. <S> Takes a lot of rinsing. <S> Or don't worry about it until you are done painting, and then replace the carpet. <S> Carpet is cheap, and truly satisfactory cleaning is difficult, especially if you don't have a wet vacuum or carpet cleaner standing by while you spill things on it - especially things that dry and become virtually impossible to remove. <A> Blot up and the previous answers say. <S> Blot, by just pressing down and not smearing. <S> Then use warm water and dish soap to dissolve it. <S> Use real cloth washcloths and not paper towels. <S> If it doesn't all come out, you could try some latex paint remove like "Goof Off", but be careful, it could hurt the carpet. <S> There are milder version of goof off that are not so smelly (no solvents) that may work without less carpet damage. <S> If you go to buy something, clover it with a piece of plastic wrap to keep it from drying out.
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Use a dry paper towel to suck up any wet paint.
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Does a neutral-to-ground voltage of 0.0 indicate a bootleg ground? As described here (for example), in a correctly-wired receptacle, there will be a small potential difference between the neutral and ground wires that increases slightly with increasing load. I'm thinking that with a bootleg ground , this voltage will always be 0 no matter how much current is running through the circuit. Is my reasoning correct? If so, is measuring the neutral-to-ground voltage a good way to test for the presence of a bootleg ground? Backstory: I'm in the middle of buying a house in the US. The home inspector discovered that some of the three-pronged outlets had no ground wire. The listing claimed recent electrical upgrades, so I asked the seller to rewire these. I meant for this to be the starting point of a negotiation, but somewhat to my surprise, he agreed to do it. In the spirit of finding a cloud for every silver lining, I'm concerned this means he's planning to do something like a bootleg ground to fool me and the inspector into thinking the problem is solved, and I'm trying to come up with a way to test for this without buying a $300 circuit analyzer. Backstory update: It turns out the guy just replaced all the ungrounded outlets with GFCI boxes. Which is not exactly what I asked for, but good enough. <Q> The best way to check for the bootleg ground, is to open up one of the boxes and look at how the receptacle is wired. <S> Since the grounded (neutral) and grounding conductors are bonded at the service equipment, they should always be at about the same voltage potential. <S> If you had a long circuit, and an accurate meter, you might be able to measure a slight difference. <S> Since wire has a resistance, it's certainly possible to measure a voltage difference. <S> However, a reading of 0 volts, does not necessarily mean there's a bootleg ground. <A> Get a big load, like a space heater or an old-school theatrical spotlight. <S> Plug it into each outlet in question and measure the voltage between neutral and ground. <S> If there is a significant difference, then it's probably done right. <A> The likelihood of coming across 0.0 volts AC on a properly wired system is not great. <S> So if you check them and do find 0.0 volts, it would warrant some investigation.
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The only way to know for sure, is to actually inspect the wiring. If there's no difference, it's bootlegged.
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How do I patch a hole in concrete sidewalk over open tunnel? There is a sidewalk running over an old tunnel. It's near a grade school, and is used often by faculty and students. The tunnel is completely open, but blocked at both ends so there is no access under the sidewalk. A 6-inch hole has developed in the sidewalk and is now a trip hazard. Any idea how I could patch this hole, so it will hold until next summer when I can collapse the tunnel? The hole is next to a welded-shut manhole and is open into the tunnel, with a piece of steel (almost rusted through) spanning the hole. Any ideas??? <Q> Immediately, and until you are done patching it, put an orange traffic cone over the hole. <S> Slip a flat stick tied to a wire in the middle through the hole. <S> Pull the wire up to make the stick cover at least part of the bottom of the hole - you can perhaps twist the wire on the rusty rebar to hold it in place. <S> Push the remaining ends of the wire down below sidewalk level. <S> Wet the sides of the hole. <S> Mix a VERY stiff (relatively dry) mortar or cement patch mix and place in the hole. <S> For best results, don't try to fill it level at first - some will drip out the remaining hole at the bottom unless your stick is a very close fit. <S> The aim of the first batch is to really plug the hole. <S> When that has set up a bit, but before very long (a couple of hours) come back and use a slightly wetter mix to fill to sidewalk level. <S> Alternatively (depending on the size of this tunnel and the expense of "collapsing it next year") call up a company that "pumps grout" and have them show up with truck, poke a nozzle in the hole, and fill the tunnel with "grout" (more or less low-grade concrete, though there's probably other technical differences.) <S> If it's your tunnel (I presume if you plan to collapse it next year), I'd be just as concerned about the vehicles parked on top of it breaking through (given the obviously deteriorated condition of the sidewalk, and something parked right on top of it in your picture) as of people tripping, liability-wise. <A> You should contact the city and/or owner of the property/tunnel, and alert them to the problem. <S> It looks like a city manhole cover, so that should probably be your first call. <S> until you figure out who owns it. <S> You should not personally try to fix the problem, unless you are the owner of the property/tunnel, or have the owners permission. <S> Patching the hole could result in a larger hazard, than a large visible hole. <S> If your patch fails, it could end up injuring somebody. <S> Which could potentially lead to legal action against you. <S> While you wait for them to fix the problem, you can place a traffic cone over the hole, or rope off the area. <A> as Ecnerwal described using wire attached to a narrow strip of plywood, but if you were to use a fast set concrete mix (some types will harden in minutes) it could be mixed loose. <S> Once poured into opening with the board plugging the bottom it would flow easily filling every part of the void. <S> Level to grade and snip the wire flush to the patch.
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If they don't own the tunnel, contact local utilities (gas, water/sewer, electric, etc.) Depending who does what in your area, "cellular concrete" might be another option (effectively "foam cement.")
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Breaker box that is full My box is full and I have a gas water heater and trying to switch to a electric tank. Could I just take out two of my 110s and replace it w a 220v for the new tank.? <Q> Assuming that there are no service capacity constraints, you have a few options: <S> Replace some of the breakers with tandem breakers. <S> These essentially double the density of each slot. <S> These breakers come in a variety of configurations of both 120/240V and combos with both. <S> This is the easiest of options for a do-it-yourselfer to complete. <S> Install a sub-panel. <S> Replace the entire breaker panel with a larger panel. <S> This is the most difficult of the three options and sometimes requires the utility to disconnect your service in order to complete this. <A> That depends on more than space to do it. <S> Is your incoming service adequate to power an electric water heater (EWH) and the other things you use electricity to do? <S> An EWH is a very significant load - if your service is not of adequate size, you may manage to trip the main breaker... <S> And, of course, you'll presumably want to relocate those 120V circuits somewhere that they continue to get power, rather than permanently turn off some of your lights and outlets so that you can install an EWH. <S> Depending on your incoming service, you may ALSO need a service upgrade (from the pole to the house, and upgrading the main panel), which might (price-tag-wise) make sticking with gas for water heating look good. <A> You cannot power the existing circuit and the heater, from the same breaker(s). <S> You may be able to switch some of the existing breakers over to tandem breakers, but only if your panel supports them, and you're not already using tandems. <S> Installing a secondary panel, might also be an option. <S> However, without a lot more details, it's not possible to give a more detailed answer. <S> As it sounds like you're not very experienced with electrical work, it might be best to have a local licensed Electrician do the work.
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So you'll want a sub-panel, or a larger main panel, unless your panel is listed to use dual-circut breakers in enough spaces that are not already using them so that you can replace 4 120V single breakers with 2 120V dual breakers and the 240V EWH breaker. If you remove two breakers, whatever was powered by those circuits will no longer work. You would relocate a number of circuits from the current box to a new sub-panel. As always, contact a licensed electrician if you are unsure of how to safely make these modifications.
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Do i need a backflow preventer for drip irrigation system A gardener just installed a drip irrigation system in my backyard. He didn't installed the back-flow preventer. When I asked him why, he told me for drip irrigation you don't need the back-flow preventer! His argument was that in drip irrigation, we have to install a pressure reducer so there is no need for a back-flow preventer. Is he right on his argument? <Q> I think he is mistaken. <S> A pressure reducing valve is not listed in the code among the approved backflow prevention devices: 2009 Uniform Plumbing Code 603.4.6 Protection From Lawn Sprinklers and Irrigation Systems <S> 603.4.6.1 <S> Potable water supplies to systems having no pumps or connections for pumping equipment, and no chemical injection or provisions for chemical injection, shall be protected from backflow by one of the following devices: (1) <S> Atmospheric vacuum breaker (2) Pressure vacuum breaker (3) Spill-resistant pressure vacuum breaker (4) <S> Reduced pressure vacuum breaker <A> Please note that this is for your own safety. <S> It keeps you from drinking water that's been contaminated by nasty things such as animal feces, dead critters, fertilizers, or even pesticides. <S> It keeps you from being sued by your neighbors if they get sick. <S> As it is a law in Texas, even rural areas, we have to abide by it. <S> $100.00 for a PVB with fittings is cheap for the piece of mind. <S> See: §344.50. <S> Backflow Prevention Methods. <S> (a) <S> The backflow prevention device must be approved by the American Society of Sanitary Engineers; or the Foundation for Cross-Connection Control and Hydraulic Research, University of Southern California; or the Uniform Plumbing Code; <A> Even if it isn't code were you reside it would be wise to install one for your health. <S> But check the valves that you have installed. <S> Many irrigation valve manufacturer's make back flow valves built into them. <S> It's usually just above the out flow threads on the valve. <S> Or if you shake the valve you should hear it rattle. <S> that is the check valve that allows water to only flow in one direction. <A> It is also important to install back-flow preventers to discourage clogging of the drippers. <S> After the irrigation cycle finishes, the volume of the pipe that was full of water will need to be replaced by air or it will collapse at certain points. <S> If there is no 'vacuum breaker' type valve the air will enter the line through the dripper aperture bringing with it dirt and debris. <S> If you want to decrease clogging of drippers and occurrence of dry-spots in the garden, I'd recommend installing such a device at the highest point of each station. <S> If the line is very long, put one every 30 metres or so.
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Any irrigation system that is connected to a public or private potable water supply must be connected through a commission-approved backflow prevention method.
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Why would hot water pipes be smaller than cold water pipes? Just bought a house and am finding the hot water pipes are smaller than the cold water pipes. Why? <Q> It will take more than twice as long for hot water to reach the fixture travelling through a 1/2" pipe than a 3/8" pipe (because there is roughly twice as much cold water sitting in the pipe), and more than twice as long through a 3/4" pipe compared to a 1/2" pipe. <S> Thus, using the smallest supply lines possible for hot water plumbing to fixtures will supply hot water much faster, saving water and energy, and making occupants happy. <S> With cold water supply lines, there's no similar issue. <S> Instead, our only concerns are about supplying enough water for good flow rates, and stable pressure (so output doesn't noticeably fluctuate when someone flushes a toilet, for example). <S> So for the same fixture where a 3/8" hot water supply line makes sense, it also makes sense to use a 1/2" cold water supply line. <A> For part of the system this may make perfect sense - i.e. the main cold feed line into the house, which is carrying all the cold and "will be heated to become hot" water at the same time, so it should be larger than the individual feed lines to fixtures. <S> If it's extended all the way to individual fixtures with larger cold water and smaller hot water lines, it makes less sense and is tending to make things unbalanced, though again, it can make sense for a "bathroom set" where the hot line is feeding the tub/shower and sink, but the cold line is also feeding the toilet. <S> A larger cold line there might make "flush-scald" where the cold water pressure drops and the shower is suddenly hot less likely, or less severe. <S> Why? <S> You'd have to dig up whoever plumbed it and ask... <S> many things in houses don't make a lot of sense unless you are the guy who chose to do it that way, for whatever inscrutable-after-the-fact reason. <A> It is completely normal to have your cold and hot water lines be different sizes. <S> Your boiler or your water heater probably has a smaller output size than the main coming in. <S> Even though the water pipes differ for the most part, the size of the water supply pipes to your fixtures would be the same for both hot and cold lines. <S> Standard sinks and tubs would use 1/2" supply lines, and toilets use a single 3/8" line. <S> As long as there is enough volume and pressure in your system, you shouldn't have any issues. <A> It may also be that the hot water lines are CPVC and the PVC. <S> In case you're wondering what the difference maybe: CPVC is a smaller diameter than PVC. <S> It is used specifically for potable hot water.
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Hot water delivery times are highly dependent on the size of the pipe.
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Will 2 multi-port USB chargers overload a 13A socket? I am a bit confused about some supposedly basic electronics concepts :/ (I kind of have an answer but just want to confirm) So let's say I have got this setup: A 13A 220V mains socket A 13A powerstrip connected to the above socket Two 60W 5V USB chargers, such as this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P936188 Question : If I plug the 2 chargers and fully utilize them (connect all ports to charging iPads), am I overloading the socket? The spec says it can deliver 2.4A per port, or 12A overall. Simple addition of the amperage is: 12A + 12A = 24A > 13A, so I am overloading However, the wattage is just 60W so maybe the correct way to calculate it is: Power = Current * VoltageCurrent = 60 / 220 = 0.27A So the input current is actually just 0.27A so I can actually safely connect as many as 13 / 0.27 = 48 of those chargers to the same mains without problems. The 12A is provided by the transformer inside the charger and doesn't concern the mains circuit. Which one is the correct interpretation? <Q> You're comparing apples to oranges. <S> You're using the power output, to try and determine the input. <S> Without knowing about the transformer, and other circuitry, that's going to be quite difficult. <S> According to the specification listed by the manufacturer <S> The unit will draw about 1.4 amperes at 100-240 volts AC (VAC), which I'm assuming is the value when the unit is fully loaded. <S> The 12 ampere value you're using, is the output current which is at 5 volts DC (VDC). <S> This unit takes in AC power, steps it down and converts it to DC power. <S> The devices that are connected to it, then draw DC power to charge. <S> The unit seems to be able to supply 12 amperes at 5 VDC, though it's not likely all the connected devices will take advantage of the full available current. <S> The 60 watts, is the amount of power available on the output side of the device. <S> 12 amperes * 5 VDC = 60 watts <A> The important thing is what the charger is pulling, not what it is delivering, because it is a transformer. <S> 60W is either 12A at 5V, or 0.27A at 220V. <S> So it is only pulling 0.27A, nowhere near overloading anything, as long as it's a perfect conversion. <S> In reality there will be some losses, so it will pull more than <S> 0.27A <S> (but still nowhere near 12A). <S> Note: As long as the 13A powerstrip contains a fuse, that fuse will be the first thing to blow if you do overload the powerstrip. <S> This is why powerstrips should be used rather than a 2-in-1 plug adaptor, as these don't have fuses and can hence overheat if overloaded. <A> If I plug the 2 chargers and fully utilize them (connect all ports to charging iPads), am I overloading the socket? <S> No. <S> Which one is the correct interpretation? <S> Neither. <S> The step down converter trades off voltage for current <S> but it's not perfectly efficient <S> and it's input won't have a unity power factor. <S> Furthermore under some loading conditions the actual output current could be higher than the rated output current. <S> So assuming the load is drawing a constant current. <S> (RMS input current) = <S> (DC output current) <S> * (DC output voltage) <S> * (efficiency) <S> * (RMS input voltage) <S> * (input power factor) <S> Efficiency is the ratio of input power to output power. <S> Simple enough. <S> Power factor is about the relationship between voltage and current waveforms. <S> If voltage and current waveforms are the same shape and in phase then average power is equal to RMS voltage times RMS current. <S> We call this a power factor of 1. <S> Cheap DC power suppliers often have a low power factor. <S> It's possible to engineer DC power supplies with a power factor very close to 1 but it costs more. <S> The EU reconised electronic loads with low power factors as a problem and introduced regulations to try and force power supply vendors to improve power factor. <S> However these regulations generally only apply to devices that draw more than 75W in normal optionation <S> so your charger probablly sneaks in under the limit. <S> Furthermore even where the regulations do apply they are frequenly ignored. <S> Tester101 found the specification listed by the manufacturer for your power supply. <S> This states an input current of 1.4A. <S> The current will be based on the low end of the input voltage range and possiblly other pessimistic assumptions. <S> Actual current on a 240V supply is likely to be considerablly less but exactly how much less is difficult to say.
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If the voltage and current waveforms are of different shapes and/or are not precisely in phase then less power will be transffered..
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how to cut multiple 2x4 to a same length with a circular saw I need to cut three 2x4 pieces (about 2 feet) and their size should be exactly identical. What would be a good way for doing that with a circular saw? The articles I found recommend using a miter saw and a stop block but I have only a circular saw. I am thinking of clamping three lumbers, making the ends of them flush and cutting them at once. But, I am wondering if there is any other better way. <Q> What you just described (cutting multiple pieces at the same time) is in the construction field referred to as "gang cutting". <S> What you should first do is make an initial gang cut at the bottom so as to square the ends. <S> Than measure and mark the length. <S> After they are clamped strike a line with a square across all pieces. <S> If you have a steady hand slowly begin the cut being sure to keep the saw blade to the waste side of the line. <S> Or clamp a guide fence down so that when the saws base plate edge rides along it the blade is at the appropriate mark (usually 3- 3 1/2 inches from inside blade edge to outside plate edge). <A> Cut one. <S> Use that to make lines on the others. <S> That's what I do. <S> Done it many times. <S> Just cut real slow. <S> And make sure the edge of the blade is lined up on the correct side of the line you draw (use a fine pen). <S> To get it right, draw a test line and cut it so you can see how your saw kerf runs. <S> Use one of these to draw lines on the wood perpendicular to the edge. <S> http://www.daviddarling.info/images/rafter_angle_square.jpg <A> Obviously I'm a bit late to help you out, but you can build a jig for a circular saw to cut the same length. <S> Probably overkill for 3 pieces but if you're cutting 10 or more, it's a good way to go. <S> It sounds like a lot of work listed out like this, but really it's maybe 5 minutes of setup time. <S> Start with a scrap piece of plywood. <S> Since most circ-saws are right-handed, put a stop-block on the left side of the plywood. <S> Screw two 2x4s to it, parallel to each other and far enough apart to allow the size of whatever you need to cut to slide between + 1/8 inch, with their left ends touching the stop block. <S> Measure from the stop block to your desired length and make a mark, and square it across the two 2x4s. <S> If you're cutting something wider than a 2x4, cut a strip of plywood long enough to cross the two 2x4s and <S> maybe 3 inches wide: this will allow the saw to be supported across the length of the cut. <S> Set your saw depth to 1/8 deeper than either the 2x4 or the 2x4 + plywood if you used it in the last step, so we'll make sure to cut the entire 2x4 but not too far into the plywood. <S> Cut your mark, making sure that the saw blade is on the right side of the line. <S> Then set the saw down with the blade in the groove you just created, centered in one of the 2x4s. <S> Mark <S> the right side of the saw's "table" (the flat metal or plastic base that the saw rides on) and square that line across both 2x4s. <S> Fasten another 2x4 along that line <S> (this is the "guide block"), across the top of the two bottom 2x4s ("rails"). <S> This will guide the saw table for your next cuts. <S> Remove the stop block from step 1. <S> Take the board that you're cutting and slide it under your guide block from the right, between the two rails. <S> Line it up with the end of the rails on the left and run the saw along the guide block to cut a block to the length you require. <S> Repeat step 9 as necessary. <A> Consider using hand tools. <S> If you read woodworking articles online, you would think you need a table saw, mitre saw, bench-top planer and a whole host of other power tools to do every simple task. <S> While those things are nice to have, if you don't have them it doesn't mean you can't do anything. <S> Since you only have 3 boards to cut, this can be done quite easily with a hand saw. <S> A tenon saw would be ideal, and even a cheap one will do. <S> Mark the first board and cut it. <S> Use the first board to mark the length on the remaining boards, and cut those. <S> Now, hold them up to each other. <S> If they're not exactly the same length, then you need to trim them. <S> Clamp them together in a row so that they all line up at one end, then clamp the row onto a workbench. <S> Mark a line square across all the boards, and use a plane across the uneven ends to even them out. <S> Planing end grain like that tends to tear the wood. <S> To avoid that, you can clamp a piece of scrap wood at the end of the row when clamping the cut boards together.
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And, yes, if your only power tool is a circular saw, than to get the most precise and exact lengths, cut them in a gang cut.
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Connecting PEX and my existing Boiler Heating System I was thinking of running oxygen barrier PEX under the floor between the joists in a cold room with a crawl space below and then putting rigid foam insulation below to keep the heat in. I have an existing boiler that is used to supply the hot water radiators. Can I hook this system up to my existing boiler? The systems uses a Weil-McLain gas fueled boiler that circulated the water at 140 degrees F. This boiler used to run 10 large radiators but we remodeled and added an in attic forced air unit and it now only runs 5. The 9 x 15 room already has forced air heat but because it has a crawl space below, three exterior walls, 8 windows, and is located in Minnesota means that that the floor gets very cold in the winter. I thought I could use one of the empty runs to heat the floor of this room and make it more comfortable. <Q> Given that you are now running only half as many radiators, you might be able to "re-purpose" the surplus to provide hot water for your staple up radiant floor heating. <S> Although, (just thinking out loud) <S> I wonder if you could supply the PEX tubing with "less-hot" water being returned to the boiler. <S> Thereby eliminating the need for a mixing valve and separate circulator pump. <A> I've used PEX for baseboard heat in MN. <S> Baseboard heater water is usually around 180 degrees. <S> even: <S> http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-3-4-in-x-100-ft-Oxygen-Barrier-Radiant-Heating-PEX-Pipe-U870O100/202033002 <S> So temperature isn't an issue. <S> What will matter is how your current system is set up. <S> If it's a gravity-fed system, you likely won't be able to use this for under-floor heating. <S> If it's pumped-based, you will likely have to create a new circuit for this room. <S> On top of that, you can't just place the pipe under the floor. <S> You need a way to efficiently dissipate the heat from the pipe directly to the floor. <S> For that, you want to install these under-floor 'fins' for the pipe: <A> I have installed radiant floor heating in a number of houses. <S> It is important that the space where the tubing is running to be insulated and also sealed to prevent infiltration of air. <S> When the radiant heat is running, this confined space gets quite warm. <S> I'd recommend using Hi R or one of the other foil <S> faced 1" thick insulation materials, and placing the reflective side up toward the floor. <S> These materials cut easily with a razor knife so it is easy to get a tight fit. <S> The other option is to use double bubble, or other aluminum faced insulation. <S> This insulation can be stapled to the side of the floor joists to create a ~2" pocket under the floor. <S> With double bubble, you still need to place other insulation under the double bubble. <S> But the DB seals the cavity and also provides a reflective surface for IR. <S> It is best to run radiant floor heating at a lower water temperature, like 130 to 150 F. <S> The temperature needed depends on how much tubing is between each joist (1,2 or 3 runs). <S> If you run the floor heat at too high a temperature, it becomes difficult to control the room temperature
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An important factor to consider is that maximum floor temperature should never exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit, so you might need to add a mixing valve and a separate circulator pump. Looks like you can easily find PEX rated for 200 degrees at Home Depot
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40 bulb chandelier wiring project - Does dimmer affect amps? I am a DIYer and have made pendant/ chandeliers before with great success but I may be over my head with this one... The question is boiled down to this: is the current wiring I have adequate for the job and do dimmers have an effect on the wire load? Here is why I ask this question: I have started a chandelier project that has 41 vintage 40 watt incandescent bulbs. (40 watt bulbs were the lowest I could find for the style i wanted.) This will be on a dimmer to reduce the light output of 1640 watts of course! i have figured the amps are 14.9 at full power but can't find any answers about the affect dimmers have on amps if any. This circuit includes five high hats with bulbs that I'm guessing are about 100 watts but we are prepared to change to LEDs so the added amps will be marginal. My research suggests that amps in this set up are just about where they should be for a circuit with a 20 amp breaker. What I can't figure is if the wire is adequate. As far as I can tell the wire from the dimmer switch to the fixture is 16 gauge solid copper probably rated for 110 degrees(?) It is a 15- 20 foot run from the dimmer. Right next door (before the dimmer) is the switch for the five high hats. before that i assume the line runs direct from the breaker box for say 40-50 feet and I'm guessing it's probably the same gauge wire there. So, in the interest of not burning my house down, can anyone tell me if the wiring is adequate and if dimmers reduce amps too? Many thanks in advance! PS. I don't think this is relevant to my problem but I figure i will mention it. I plan to use or fashion a power distribution set up where all hot wires go to one bank and all neutral go to another. <Q> For North American AC wiring, #14 wire is used on 15 Amp circuits, and #12 for 20 Amp. <S> You will need #12 wire, and a 20 Amp breaker to feed your chandelier. <S> If you could break the chandelier lights into two groups, you could use two 15 Amp circuits, and would have an easier time finding dimmers to control it. <S> A dimmer will reduce the effective current when the lights are dimmed, but I think the Electrical Code will require the breaker and wiring to be suitable for the maximum (full brightness) load. <A> What you have to realize is the chandelier needs a dedicated circuit. <S> That means nothing else can be on the same breaker. <S> A #12 AWG straight to the panel with a 20 Amp breaker will be sufficient. <S> Likely the existing circuit is shared with other lights and outlets, and ignoring this is just a problem waiting to happen. <S> Also, the fixture wire itself should be at least #14 Awg. <S> Anything smaller <S> and you're in violation of NEC article 402.5 <S> Some dimmers do decrease the load but even at the lowest intensity is just a 40% reduction. <S> Remember, dimmers get hot for a reason and that is the energy being displaced as heat. <S> Dimmers do increase the life expectancy of bulbs but that is about it. <S> And yes they do make 2000 Watt dimmers. <A> You do not state your location, but in the US this would require a dedicated 20A circuit using #12 wire. <S> I am not sure about Canada, but I believe they require a maximum 15A circuit for residential lighting, so this fixture would probably not even be legal to use. <S> You would require a 2000 watt dimmer. <S> They ARE available, but are very limited. <S> They would usually require a 2-gang wall box and typically cannot be ganged with other switches or dimmers, at least without derating. <S> Lutron would be the likely brand for this. <S> Here is a spec page for the most popular version: <S> Lutron Nova dimmer <S> The model number would be T-2000 <S> The circuit would need to be designed for full load use. <A> Since you would certainly never run all these bulbs at full power, consider using an autotransformer to step down the voltage. <S> Because incandescent bulbs act like resistors when lit, the current will fall in proportion. <S> Since watts = <S> volts <S> * amps , power will fall in proportion squared . <S> Reducing the power would make the bulbs last much longer. <S> The beauty of the autotransformer is it is very efficient at power conversion. <S> So input current (@120V) would fall in proportion to power used; i.e. squared. <S> This quickly gets you inside the legal limits for circuits. <S> For instance: suppose you use an autotransformer to step down 120V <S> ** <S> to 100V. <S> Current will drop in proportion, from 13.7A to 11.4A (@100V). <S> Power will drop to 1140 watts, quite a drop! <S> The autotransformer will fix it so you're drawing at 120V, and 1140W is only 9.5 amps. <S> That's well within the 80% limit on a 15A circuit. <S> Since the autotransformer is built-in and can't be overridden, you would only have to provision power for the 9.5 amps. <S> A stepdown to 90V would yield 922 watts. <S> A stepdown to 80V would yield 728 watts. <S> A stepdown to 70V would yield 558 watts. <S> A stepdown to 60V (half voltage) would yield 410 watts (quarter power). <S> You could also use a variac, a variable autotransformer, for wide range dimming. <S> You could limit the travel of the variac so it can't go to 100%. <S> **Electrical power is actually 120V. <S> "110" is a slang term for power, which reflects what the voltage was in the 1920s when mains power was first widely marketed to common citizens. <S> They've given it a few bumps since then.
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To address your amps question, yes, in an indirect way dimmers do reduce the amps drawn on a circuit, but this has no effect on circuit design.
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Copper pipe through cinder block wall: corrosion issue The pipe in the picture runs from my oil tank through my basement wall and to the outside (guessing it's the vent pipe for when they fill the tank). Should I be concerned about what it going on at the pipe/wall interface? The white stuff is very crumbly. Any advice on how to remedy or prevent from getting worse. Thank you. <Q> Normally it is perfectly acceptable for copper piping to come into contact with (or even be embedded in) concrete. <S> Pre-cast concrete block is often an exception. <S> This is a quote from the Copper Development Assn. <S> : <S> "copper should be protected when it comes in contact with concrete mixtures that contain components high in sulfur, such as cinders and fly-ash, which can create an acid that is highly corrosive to most metals including copper" They don't call them cinder blocks for no reason, fly ash (a residue left when coal is burned) is used in their manufacture. <S> Check with your local code enforcement authority, but that pipe should have been protected, both against corrosion and against abrasion due to thermal expansion. <S> You may eventually need to cut out that section and solder a new piece in. <S> If you can disconnect it from the tank and plug the end, fill it with water to see if there are any pinholes or leaks. <S> Solder a new piece in if you are worried (remember to disconnect and flush first, torches and oil residue/vapor <S> do not go well together). <A> Sometimes as retrofit like your situation I carefully chip concrete and use spray foam to fill up the gap to isolate the pipe. <A> We always sleeve pipes where it goes through the wall with another short length of pipe.
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I always sleeve the pipes either with plumbing tape or use insulation or conduit.
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How to get squirrels out of inaccessible attic before plugging their entry hole? I have a low pitch roof that has an attic between it and the ceiling which is low enough to be useless for storage and access. I have had a problem with squirrels entering for a while and I finally found the hole they are using to enter. I would like to plug the hole but would not like to leave any squirrels inside to either try to dig another way out or go crazy while waiting for inevitable and slow, awful death. Is there any way to lure them out before I plug the hole? They can be heard moving in the ceiling sometimes but an absence of the noise does not guarantee they are not inside. <Q> To supplement the other answers that recommend a one-way pest exit door based on the comments that the current hole size and location will not accommodate such a door: You can always patch the current hole, create a new one for the door (preferably in an inconspicuous location if possible), and then either remove and patch up the new hole after you are sure all pests are gone or leave it in place should pests find a new entryway in the future. <A> They will exit throughout the day to obtain food, the exception being very young babies. <S> I think at this time of year it is unlikely to have young babies in there, <S> so you are probably safe (humane?) <S> to use the one-way door and just wait for them to all leave. <S> Keep in mind that some squirrels, especially red squirrels are very persistent and will try and find another way in, so unless you do a really good job sealing all the entry holes, they might just find their way back in again. <S> They can squeeze through amazingly small spaces. <S> Common entry points are corners where the roof meets the soffits, vents, turbines, etc. <A> You will need to install a one way pest door at the entrance they are using. <S> Here is an example of one I found on amazon. <S> http://www.amazon.com/Tomahawk-Excluder-One-Way-Door/dp/B00B9JVD7K <A> I don't think I'd trust the one-way door unless you have a clear single access point. <S> I'd probably go with some predator scent . <S> Use it sparingly and you're unlikely to detect it inside the home.
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Usually the way this is handled is by installing one-way doors so that the squirrel can exit but not re-enter.
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Utility sink close to 220v dryer outlet We would like to put in a utility sink in between our washer and dryer and the 220v dryer outlet is about 6" to the right and 6" below the top of the sink. I know code doesn't require GFCI for this, 120 washer outlet is GFCI, but is this safe or common practice? Thanks. <Q> No biggie. <S> Remember the dryer is going to be plugged in 24/7 and not likely to be messed around with, so not unsafe. <A> If the dryer receptacle is in a place where it could be splashed it may be considered a "damp" location and you should probably get a weatherproof cover for it. <S> ( NEC 2014, section 406.9(A) ). <S> Also note that all 125-volt (i.e. "regular") receptacles in a laundry area must be GFCI protected, whether or not there is a sink ( NEC 2014, section 210.8(A) ). <S> But a sink makes it an especially important safety feature so this would be a good time to double-check that and correct if necessary. <S> (Note that there is no "distance to the sink" clause for laundry areas, so it's not a question of a certain number of feet from the sink.) <A> While the sink close to the outlet situation is probably acceptable to all electrical and building codes, I personally would want to increase the margin of safety if it were my home: <S> Relocate the dryer outlet further from the sink and raise it up higher. <S> While at it, be sure the outlet is a modern 4 wire (2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground) and has maximum protection from splashing it its design. <S> Place a splash barrier between the sink and the outlet: perhaps a half wall or a small custom barrier. <S> Better still would be to locate the utility sink to the left of the washer and dryer to the right. <S> Note: <S> appliance manufacturers expect washer to the left of the dryer when doors that open left or right are considered. <A> You're okay with this configuration. <S> Most utility rooms aren't all that big, and it is also very common to have clothes washing machines, which combine lots of water with lots of electricity, right next to clothes dryers, along with an oversize utility sink in many cases. <S> The dryer plug is almost certainly behind the washer and/or the dryer, not where it is easily accessible. <S> It certainly sounds like it is behind the dryer in this case. <S> The dryer is also unlikely to be unplugged for any reason more than about twice in the next 10 years. <S> Any time you do unplug it, it's going to be when you are repairing or replacing it--not a casual affair during which somebody is likely to be using that sink at the same time. <S> My point is that you aren't constantly plugging and unplugging things like electric razors, radios and dangerous little high power appliances like hair dryers into that dryer receptacle. <S> You're plugging the dryer in, pushing it up against the wall, then leaving it alone. <S> If it's wired incorrectly, then it's a danger with or without the addition of a sink. <S> On the other hand, if you plug a radio or hair dryer into a non-GFCI receptacle, then drop it in the sink or the bathtub, you are in very serious trouble. <S> In other words, the danger of the receptacle has much to do with how you use it, and the nature of the devices you plug into it, and the state of repair (or disrepair) of said devices, and the portability of said devices. <S> You are quite unlikely to accidentally drop a clothes dryer into the sink.
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If the circuit is wired correctly, then the housing of the dryer (and of the washing machine next to it) is grounded and won't become a shock hazard. It is very common to have outlets, even panels near sinks.
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How can I make a bluish "white" LED less blue? I recently bought this white LED reading lamp. I like it a lot, but the "white" light produced is significantly blue; I'll guess its color temperature is about 5000K. I've noticed that, when this is the only source of light, printed text appears slightly fuzzy, and is more difficult to read than with a standard incandescent reading lamp. My guess is that this is chromatic aberration causing color fringing in my eyes, making it harder to read with this new lamp. Is there a way to make this lamp less blue using some sort of transparent/translucent filter over the lens? This could filter out some of the blue end of the spectrum, or include a phosphor to convert some of the blue to yellow (as most "white" LEDs do). The fluorescence idea would be better, as there'd be less light lost. I don't want to go too far, though; a strongly yellow lamp might be worse for reading than this currently blueish lamp. <Q> Chromatic aberration interfering with reading would be a very unusual complaint (so says an ophthalmologist I know). <S> So, if one has cataracts then it can be harder to read under blue light. <S> Most "white" LEDs use a monochromatic blue source (not UV), which is then fluoresced to the lower frequencies with phosphor. <S> Good phosphor is expensive, and more fluorescing hurts efficiency. <S> Consequently, cheap LED sources tend to be blue and have a poor CRI. <S> Practically speaking, an LED with poor spectral characteristics cannot be improved once manufactured. <S> You need a different lamp. <A> On a small scale, I have had "decent" (not perfectly warm but MUCH better) luck using Brown Spray Paint on low voltage LED's to change the tone, even though they were in the warmer color spectrum. <S> Have lasted and no ill effects to bulb life to date. <A> You don't need to buy a variety - you can stack up multiple layers. <S> It may just be too darn bright. <S> After 40 years of seeing tiny red LED indicators, one thinks LEDs struggle to make a paltry amount of light. <S> Not at all. <S> They can be extremely bright because 100% of their energy is made into visible light in the desired cone - none wasted on IR light you can't see, or lighting up reflectors. <S> If the bulbs are replaceable, just go out and get the color temperature and CRI you want. <S> Selection has gotten notably better even in the past year.
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I'd try to correct this with cinematic gels - sheets of tinted plastic used to correct cinematic lighting. On the other hand, cataracts do block and scatter blue light more than the lower end of the visible spectrum.
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Add an electric socket to an existing light circuit (230v AC) I have an existing single light controlled by a single switch in understair storgae space. Now I need an additional electric socket there as its an ideal location to power my security alarm. (No heavy load, its just a 12v adaptor to be plugged into the 230v socket). I tried to open the existing switch and it has a single chorded cable with 3 wires in it. With the line (Brown) goes through the switch and remainig neutral(Blue) and earth (Green/Yellow) goes directly to the bulb. Can I safely add a socket to this circuit ? Please kindly help with the connection details. Many thanks in advance. This is for house located in UK. Here is the connection diagram, I am planning to get the result. Is this is fine without any issues ??? <Q> So the initial answer is <S> yes <S> but there are two snags: <S> UK regulations require an RCD/ELCB (earth leakage protection) device on all socket circuits. <S> Best way out of it would be to tap off L, N & E through a low current RCD and to a 13 A socket. <S> I had a look for low current (2 A) RCD but can't find any in RS or Farnell catalogues. <A> Basically you can, of course. <S> You have everything you need. <S> But I STRONGLY suggest asking someone with deeper knowledge in 230V house installations. <S> Honestly speaking, if you don't know how to wire that, it does probably make no sense to do that yourself. <S> I don't know the rules in the UK, but in Germany there are some rules to follow. <S> For example, you might need to use special sockets if there's high humidity in your basement. <S> You should know which cables to use, I am not sure which rules you have to follow, and if you don't know either, please ask someone who does the job for you. <S> Even though you are only connecting a 12 V power adaptor, it still is a full 230 V socket which someone else might use to connect some heavier devices. <S> Sorry for the negative answer, but please see this as friendly advise. <A> The live cable will be a radial from the consumer unit, hence you do indeed have a live and a neutral. <S> Lighting cable in the UK is normally 1.5mm diameter, suitable to carry 15Amps. <S> All single sockets must be capable of taking 13Amps. <S> Therefore a single socket on a 15Amp cable would take up most of its capacity. <S> Sockets must also be protected by a Residual Current Device (RCD). <S> It depends on how recently your consumer unit has been installed as to whether your lighting circuit is protected by RCD or not. <S> Hence I think it unlikely that you could safely (i.e. within regulations) add a socket. <S> As a possible alternative: It is possible to wire things directly into a lighting circuit, rather than using a socket; bathroom fans are an example of this. <S> But you won't be able to do this if you need an adapter, as you are unlikely to be able to wire the adapter in directly. <S> (I guess it might depend - my laptop adapter has a normal plug, and the transformer itself is separate, hence I could cut the plug off and wire it in. <S> My mobile charger has the transformer built into the plug; hence I wouldn't be able to cut off the plug and still have the transformer.) <S> For anyone reading this question who may have a slightly different wiring setup: <A> The first thing you need to do is find out where the light is fed from. <S> fed from a lighting circuit: <S> Putting a 13A socket on a lighting circuit is not expicilty prohibited. <S> However there are a couple of things to bear in mind. <S> Lighting circuits are normally on a 6A breaker, plugging in a large appliance my trip the breaker. <S> Sockets intended for general use with a current rating must be RCD protected. <S> Unless the consumer unit was replaced in the last few years the lighting circuit is unlikely to be RCD protected. <S> If it's possible to get a cable back to a socket circuit without unreasonable effort then that is what I would do. <S> If not I would fit the socket on the light circuit but clearly label it with something like "burgler alarm only, fed from lighting circuit". <S> If you do go for the socket circuit option remember to follow the normal rules for that (which depend on exactly what type of socket circuit it is) fed from a socket circuit via a fused connection unit: <S> This is similar to above except you will be more likely to have RCD protection in place. <S> fed from a socket circuit without a fused connection unit: <S> You need to add a FCU to procide overcurrent protection. <S> Cable from the socket circuit to the FCU should be at least 2.5mm 2 . <S> I would advise fitting a 5A fuse though you may be able to fit a 13A one depending on the type of light fitting and the size of any wiring.
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If this is the case you most definitely cannot safely add a socket. Someone could plug in a high current device into the lighting circuit. That would address both problems. Cable for electric sockets is normally 2.5mm diameter, suitable to carry 20Amps. It sounds as though you have phase, neutral and earth available to you. If there is only a single cable into the box, where the brown goes into COM on the switch plate and the blue goes into L1, the blue is switched live and is NOT neutral .
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Screw is turning within wall plug and not tightening In attempting to fix a toilet roll holder to a wall in my bathroom, the screw within the wall plug fails to tighten and grip the bracket. It does screw in but doesn't tighten against the wall. There are 2 holes and it's the same for both. I don't believe I over tightened when screwing in. Both the wall plugs and screws were provided in a kit with the toilet roll holder so I know I haven't picked the wrong size. I also installed this same toilet roll holder in a different bathroom and had no problems. What is the problem if the screw spins but the wall plug doesn't? Is there a way to resolve this problem without repairing the holes? The screws are 35mm, the wall plug 25mm and I used a size 6 drill bit. And yes, I am a complete newbie when it comes to DIY :). Many thanks, <Q> You may have to pull out the anchor, fill the hole, redrill it and install a new anchor if the first one has become too misfigured. <S> You could also get some other kind of anchors like these screw in kind that hold beter. <A> @BrianK's suggestion is a good one. <S> A standard approach to filling oversized screw holes in wood is to fill them with wooden toothpicks, usually coated with wood glue. <S> Once they are dry, the hole is a bit closer to a solid piece of wood and a screw can grip it more firmly. <S> The same can sometimes be done with a plastic anchor. <S> Try wedging two or more wooden toothpicks in the anchor, preferably toward the sides (glue probably won't help since it doesn't tend to stick to the soft plastic in anchors). <S> Now when you drive the screw, the toothpicks should push outward, creating a tighter fit that may be enough to lock the screw into the anchor. <S> If not, revert to BrianK's approach. <A> In some cases you might have to go with a molly bolt instead. <S> In one case, I had a screw that was "turning" but was really the anchor and screw turning where the screw was one that held in the hinging frame of a shower door. <S> I could not remove the frame since it was contractor-adhesived onto the finished wall, so I drilled out the frame, pushed in the screw and anchor, then reversed the wings of a molly bolt, pushed it in and put washers and a nut on the bolt coming up against the frame. <S> Cut the bolt flush, and Bob's your uncle. <S> Took awhile, but has been solid ever since.
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If the anchor is not spinning, you may be able to create grip within the anchor so the screw will hold. Be careful not to overtighten.
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Will joint compound / drywall mud clog my drain? If I wash my tools (knives and mud pan) in my laundry tub/sink after use, will the drywall mud clog my drain pipes? <Q> I think it would depend on the amount of compound you're putting down the drain, what size drain, how much water is used to flush the tools, and probably a few other factors I haven't thought of. <S> Scoop out any left over mud from your tray/hawk, and throw it away. <S> Then rinse all the tools thoroughly. <S> NOTE: <S> If you're using premixed compound, never put unused mud back in the bucket. <S> Once the mud is out of the bucket, either use it, or toss it. <A> Drywall mud's redeeming quality vs its better qualified plaster cousins is its solubility. <S> Adding any water to drywall mud will slowly dissolve it. <S> Add a lot of water or hot water to mud <S> (in any state) will start to dissolve the material, quite quickly if water overpowers. <S> The only possibly issue is if you poured down a chunk that blocked things then put more stuff down the drain - in effect blocking your blocked mud. <S> Otherwise water will dissolve whatever is stuck and it will be a non-issue. <S> Should you put vast amounts down a drain? <S> Only if you are confident that this blockage can't become blocked. <S> If you have clean pvc you could probably dump bags of drywall mud powder down without an issue - I wouldn't recommend testing this though. <S> What is funny is that probably the worst possible thing you can put down your drain is cooked, soft boxed pasta. <S> Once it hardens it sticks like mad and takes quite a bit of time before it softens. <A> In general I wouldn't go pouring gallons down your drain, however if you put some down just run hot water for awhile afterwards. <S> Supposedly if you have already done it and even supposedly if a little but hardened, the hot water should still loosen it up enough to separate and flush down. <S> I always wash my tools in my sink that have paint or putty left over on them and flush like I said afterwards and have never had any problems. <A> My kids just did just this, drywall compound has the main sewer drain all stopped up! <S> Don't do it!!!! <A> If you have a smooth pipe and lots of water you may be OK! <S> However if your drain pipe is rough inside such as old clay or metal pipes, the texture will collect the mud on the inside of the pipe and harden especially on the sides and top. <S> I would not do it especially in a 50 year old house.
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Though typically it's not a problem, as long as you're not pouring a whole tray of mud down the drain.
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My goodman furnace is not igniting my burners I have a goodman furnace and when it is calling for heat the ignitor comes on and goes off and comes on again and the burners never comes on what could be the problem <Q> No fuel. <S> Verify that you have gas supplied to the unit. <S> Also, an automatic gas valve sometimes malfunctions by sticking. <S> After you have verified that gas is supplied to the unit, give the automatic valve a solid tap with a hammer or a wrench during the start-up cycle to see if it opens. <S> If so, then you need a new gas valve. <S> (Do not tap the valve hard enough to damage it.) <A> Presuming everything is fine with the unit. <S> One setup that commonly creates this condition is use of the blower fan. <S> If you have your fan set to ON at the thermostat instead of being set to AUTO this will cause the furnace to not ignite when called upon. <S> It doesn't matter what speed the blower is running at, but the furnace must have sole control of the fan. <A> Test for 24v at the gas valve; if you have ample voltage, your gas valve will need to be changed. <S> If you do not have ample voltage at the gas valve <S> you have a wiring or board problem. <S> I have found this to be the cause in the past as an HVAC professional.
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In any case, have a licensed gas fitter with furnace service experience look at and repair your furnace.
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Using indoor-only Xmas lights -- in the outdoors, where they'll get wet Imagine that you bought a few strings of incandescent Xmas lights. They are rated for indoor use only. The tag says not to use them outdoors. They aren't any cheaper than the outdoor-rated lights sold in the same store; but you feel that the indoor-rated lights come in nicer colors. You want to use them outdoors for about one every per year (in the fall). They'll be used in a backyard hut. They'll be attached to the roof of the hut, which is made of bamboo poles. The roof is not watertight at all. The lights will remain lit all night, every night. They'll be plugged into a GFCI-protected outlet. After the week is over, the lights will be stored away in a dry basement until the next year. It can get chilly here in the fall -- it can dip to 5 °C (40 °F) at night. It also rains sometimes. Rain will fall on the lights, and they'll get wet. What are the risks? (Optional:) If you like, also consider your favorite North American electrical code. Either the US National Electrical Code or the Canadian Electrical Code. Is it likely to be legal to take risks like this one? <Q> The main risk I can think of is electrocution. <S> Most likely the parts are not designed to get wet, exposed to sun, and/or extreme temperatures. <S> GFCI will protect you if you get electrocuted and the voltage goes to the ground, but if you happen to get electrocuted in a way that continues through the wiring back to the neutral, there will be no voltage difference to cause a trip. <S> The electrical codes cover the wiring in the wall and to the outlets. <S> But from the device plugged into the receptacle on, it gets into consumer safety and groups like UL. <S> The product you selected was deemed unsafe for this purpose by the manufacturer or an underwriter, so it would be best to get a product designed for the purpose you intend. <S> As an aside, outdoor rated holiday lights are common and cheap, so it doesn't make sense to try to save money like this. <A> If they were safe to use outside, the company would have labeled them so. <S> If you insist on trying the experiment, make very sure that they're connected to a GFCI so that you don't shock anyone. <S> I'd argue for an AFCI as well to reduce the chance of starting a fire — by which point you've pushed the cost above just getting outdoor-certified lights. <S> Also: If the bulbs aren't designed for use in the rain, water can cause the hot glass to shatter. <A> If the instructions on the labeling specifically say " For indoor use only ". <S> Then installing them outdoors is a violation of NEC 110.3(B). <S> Risks include, but are not limited to... Electrocution Damage to property Injury and/or death Malfunction Reduced product life Voided warranty National Electrical Code 2014 <S> Chapter 1 General Article 110 Requirements for Electrical Installations <S> 110.3 Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use of Equipment. <S> (B) Installation and Use. <S> Listed or labeled equipmentshall be installed and used in accordance with any instructionsincluded in the listing or labeling. <A> homeownershub.com : <S> How can I tell the difference between interior or exterior Christmas lights? <S> My intentions are to put it on a tree outside. <S> Frankly wouldn't care if it burnt down! will save me from cutting it next summer <S> ;) –cln <S> The notion of using indoor lights on an outdoor tree doesn't rank very high in the annals of common sense. <S> You may wind up having a fire call (some FD's bill you for these things) or a tripped breaker, melted extension cords stuck to the stoop, etc. <S> But, of course, if you relish the excitement of having the Red Cross people bringing coffee and things to the firemen as you stand around and chat with neighbors among the embers, go ahead. <S> It will be a memorable holiday, and your insurance rates may only spike for a couple of years. <S> Merry Christmas. <S> – <S> Joe FYI: <S> ( christmas-treasures.com ) <S> A Christmas light set that is UL listed for indoor use will have a green holographic UL sticker on the cord. <S> A Christmas light set that is UL listed for indoor/outdoor use will have a red holographic UL sticker on the cord.
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This is generally a bad idea.
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Should it take a while to get supplies to rewire a 1100sq ft house? I'm dealing with some contractor problems and I'm trying to get some information to figure out if the contractor is lying to me or just incompetent (or if I'm unreasonable). We had a long delay of no work being done and they just started to do some work last week - and now they are saying they need another week to get materials. This is a 1100 sq ft house. Nothing unusual about it. They are replacing all the existing knob and tube wires with up to code materials, including outlets and the main panel. This is something that was in the contract since day 1 so it's not something we just added. The electrician came over yesterday to look at the job and said he's waiting on materials before he can start. The ONLY thing that's even remotely out of the ordinary - I asked him to run some ethernet cables as well. Can't they pick up all of the materials from Home Depot or Lowe's ? I even did a quick search on Amazon and I see they sell electrical panels which you can order with next day shipping. Since they knew they had to do this when we first signed the contract, and there has already been over a month of no work being done, I think this delay is beyond unreasonable. I also don't think this delay is realistic since I just can't believe it's that hard to get very common materials for this type of job. <Q> At the risk of throwing someone under the bus, NOTHING he would need could not be acquired at a real supply house (or even home center) in less than an hour and totally in stock. <S> Even the ethernet cable (typically Cat5e) is nothing special in bulk and ANY electrician worth <S> his salt should have the tools and be able to terminate. <S> I get the impression that he overbooked himself and needs time. <S> Unfortunately for him we have the internet, so his excuse is easily debunked. <A> Wire, Cable, outlets, switches, conduit, panels, breakers etc. <S> to wire a house are commodities. <S> Easy to find. <S> If you ordered special fixtures, that might be different. <S> A good electrician would have what was needed, at least to start, right in the van. <A> A total rewire is a big job. <S> The "waiting for stuff" is likely to be not correct. <A> If he won the bid because he had the lowest price than he may have a supply house that is giving him a discount. <S> So if he patronizes a specific store than possibly the retailer is part of the delay. <S> But in reality if he has been a "no show" for a month than likely he's finishing up another job. <S> Be alert, if this is how the contractor is starting his initial employment with you it would be wise to check his performance from references, county license, BBB, etc. <A> Is all wiring being fished in the walls or is it surface run in raceway? <S> With a house using Knob and Tube, I would suspect that access is limited. <S> (old construction tends to be much harder to access) <S> If that is the case, then there may be a back order for the surface mounted raceway.
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He probably hasn't managed his time well and doesn't have time to do your job right now.
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Removing Wallpaper Glue - All of it or can I leave faint bits behind? I'm removing wallpaper right now. Removing the paper itself was easy. The problem now is there is a ton of glue left over. I'm removing the glue using water+vinegar and then scraping it off. Most of it comes off easily, however there are a few spots where it's stubborn and refuses to come off. There's not much there at all, it looks like a faint stain. Is it okay to leave little bits like that? I plan on applying a skim coat of mud to the drywall next. mj <Q> I also think removing as much old adhesive as possible is what you want to do. <S> I made the mistake of not removing it all a few years ago <S> and now I have to go back. <S> Also, seal with kitz oil based primer. <S> The skim coat sounds like a lot of work to get it smooth. <S> Is the wall that rough? <S> Af for the need to prime, definitely after skimming, or on any holes you patch. <S> I wouldn't prime before skimming unless there was still glue left. <A> If you're skim coating, you might be alright. <S> Though it's hard to tell without actually seeing it. <S> If it were me, I'd do my best to remove all the glue, even if I had to sand a few spots. <S> If you were planning to paint without skim coating, then you definitely have to remove all the glue. <A> The best tool for wall paper and paste removal is this one: http://www.lowes.com/pd_40627-97-0282018___?productId=3033147&pl=1&Ntt=wall+paper+steamer . <S> It removes the paper in sheets as well as the glue. <A> The wallpaper paste will bleed through layers of skimcoat and latex paint. <S> For best results, you will have to take a few steps. <S> 1. <S> Remove as much as the paste as possible. <S> 2. <S> Then use an oil-based primer over the wall. <S> Oil-based primer will block wallpaper paste staining 3. <S> At this point you will have a good surface to skimcoat over. <S> 4. <S> After skimcoating, another coat of primer (could be oil-based or latex). <S> You need this layer of primer because of the uneven way paint drys over bare drywall compound. <S> 5. <S> Finish coat of paint!
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You will have to remove all of the wall paper paste otherwise the spackle will not get a solid bond to the wall surface.
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West facing master bedroom getting hot from afternoon sun I am renting a townhouse where the master bedroom is always getting way hotter than the rest of the house. It's the only room on the top floor on the west side of the house and only has one window on the west facing wall. The downstairs is fine as the trees outside shade that part of the house, however they have been pruned a while ago and they have never grown tall enough again to shade the second floor of the townhouse. I was hoping someone here would be able to help me reduce the heat that this room gets without having to do anything to drastic as we are only renting. Thanks <Q> Rather than go full mobile-home park and start boarding (or foiling) up the windows, they do make window film specifically for this: Gila Heat Block Film (just one example) <S> That film might be enough to fix the problem, and if you install it carefully, management will probably not care if you leave it in place when you move. <S> If that alone doesn't block enough heat, you can also get "blackout" shades made of heavy, light blocking fabric. <S> If you don't want curtains, a light blocking roll-up shade is another option, and basic models can be very inexpensive: <A> <A> Cover the window with tin foil, to reflect the suns rays. <S> Or, for something that looks slightly better, install a reflective blind. <S> (This does depend on what you're allowed to do within your rental contract. <S> But seeing as you're on a DIY forum, I figure this might be acceptable.) <A> You should also consider: awnings: http://www.lowes.com/Windows-Doors/Awnings-Accessories/Awnings/_/N-1z11pob/pl?UserSearch=awnings <S> # ! and exterior window shades: http://www.lowes.com/Search=exterior+window+shades?storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=exterior+window+shades# !
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A step up from tin foil, you can buy radiant barrier insulation - it looks like mylar bubble wrap - and stick that to the windows. If you just spray plain water on the window and press on the bubble wrap, it will hold on for quite a while, and can be removed without a trace.
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Popup outlet on kitchen island - is it against building codes? California I've seen these small round popup outlets. I spoke with a contractor we have doing a remodel of our kitchen and he said it would violate building codes. Didn't even give me a chance to show him what I was talking about. So I was just hoping to get a 2nd opinion with someone who's knowledgeable about california building codes (specifically san mateo county) as to if something like this is ok or violates some code? Thanks <Q> This would not violate the NEC, which I think Ca uses. <S> Possibly your contractor thought you were referring to the receptacles being face-up. <S> The main stipulation would be that they would need to be GFI protected by an upstream GFI device or breaker, and that it is hard wired. <A> Indeed, provided the assembly is UL listed for the purpose , there are no Code issues involved. <S> The applicable passages are 210.52(C)(5) <S> (emphasis mine): <S> (5) Receptacle Outlet Location. <S> Receptacle outlets shall be located on or above, but not more than 500 mm (20 in.) <S> above, the countertop. <S> Receptacle outlet assemblies listed for the application shall be permitted to be installed in countertops. <S> Receptacle outlets rendered not readily accessible by appliances fastened in place, appliance garages, sinks, or rangetops as covered in 210.52(C)(1), Exception, or appliances occupying dedicated space shall not be considered as these required outlets. <S> and 406.5(E): <S> (E) Receptacles in Countertops and Similar Work Surfaces. <S> Receptacles, unless listed as receptacle assemblies for countertop applications, shall not be installed in a face-up position in countertops or similar work surfaces. <S> Where receptacle assemblies for countertop applications are required to provide ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel in accordance with 210.8, such assemblies shall be permitted to be listed as GFCI receptacle assemblies for countertop applications. <S> Unfortunately, the T&B KPR-15G is on "permanent engineering hold", don't ask me why -- otherwise, it seems to be the finest example out there of such an assembly. <S> If you don't mind the difference in appearance, though, you can use the Lew PUFP series (they pop out at a "sideways angle" vs the vertical pop-up on the T&B and Mockett units, as shown in this PDF ). <S> Unfortunately, the image in the question depicts the Mockett version of this concept, which is sigh listed as a portable power tap, and thus not Code-compliant in this application. <A> Popups like that are available with a cord and plug, just a special kind of outlet strip, I don't know if they are listed as a "relocatable power tap" or what. <S> in line with codes. <S> I'd get the pertinent info from the popup manufacturer and run it by the inspector.
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That would be a violation of the NEC for a kitchen counter receptacle. Your building dept can tell you what electrical codes your area follows. If there is an outlet inside the cabinet where you can plug in the popup, that outlet will need to be GFCI protected etc.
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How do I check my upstairs bedroom for insulation in the ceiling? I have a bungalow home in Michigan that has plaster ceiling. How do I check if the ceiling is insulated between ceiling and roof with no access point? The upstairs room was meant to be an attic but converted to a bedroom. Now, in winter it is freezing and in summer extremely hot. <Q> You would be wise to cut an access somewhere and get rent a blowing machine for insulation. <S> get about 16" up there. <S> Taper it to the roof rafters so it does not touch the roof. <S> It will allow the roof to get too hot in those places and deteriorate the roof prematurely. <S> 2' of airspace over the insulation is recommended. <A> If the attic was converted in the last 50 years <S> or so it's probably drywall rather than plaster. <S> If you have any light fixtures in the ceiling, there may be a little space between the electrical box and the drywall, and you may be able to see insulation if that's the case. <S> (Of course you do need to understand how to work safely around electrical etc. <S> to do this.) <A> I have a FLIR camera that attaches to my iPhone. <S> It cost around $250 new, and shows where insulation is missing in my apartment. <S> The camera is expensive for a one-time need (but far cheaper than they used to be), so if you can find a friend who has one to lend, that would save damage and repair. <S> (I later learned of a competitor for ~$200)
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Be mindful of any added can (recessed) lights that were put in later, they need to be IC (insulation contact) rated or keep the insulation off them too. If the house is old enough to have a plaster ceiling, there is a terrific chance there is no insulation.
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Is it possible to replace the lock on this door that has been painted on? I have a very old door with a very old lock, pictured here: It doesn't close because the previous owner stuck some wood in the latch, and there doesn't seem to be any place for the lock. I'd like to replace this, but I'm not sure if it will be possible. The screws on the face plate are painted over, and it seems to be pretty far in there, and the strike plate is totally painted over. Will it be possible to replace this with a more modern door handle? Any ideas? Thanks! <Q> How can I remove a Mortise Lock and deadbolt from a door? <S> The paint's no problem. <S> Cut around the door knob escutcheon with a sharp utility knife, so it doesn't rip chunks of paint off the door. <S> Do this anywhere there's paint-glue holding in metal parts. <S> Scrape the paint out of the groves in the tips of the flat head screws using a screwdriver or the knife if you have to. <S> How do I replace mortise locks with bored cylindrical locks? <S> That post says don't . <S> Replace it with another mortise lock. <S> Other posts mention having a hard time finding a match for their hardware, you might want to see if you can get yours working again. <A> You can score the paint with a knife edge or screwdriver corner, then chip/dig the excess paint away, to free things up. <S> The thing below the knob, before it was painted in place, is the keyhole cover. <S> It's supposed to swivel to the side. <S> For security you might want to mount a deadbolt higher on the door, with a modern cylinder and key. <S> If you want to replace this old mortise lock set, there are a few choices. <S> It's going yo be hard but not impossible to fit a modern mortise lockset into the mortise cavity. <S> Or you could fill the mortise by gluing in one or more appropriately sized blocks of wood, drill the repaired door, and mount a tubular-style knobset, which is the type most commonly used today, optionally mounting a deadbolt over it. <S> Or you could retire and replace this door. <A> Unless you really want a new door latch these type of locks can be rebuilt by a lock smith, perhaps much cheaper than hiring a carpenter to fill the door in to install a standard modern knob, off the shelf of the local hardware store. <S> Mortise locks are still made and there may be a chance to find one that will replace the original, but that will take research. <S> Here is a latch set that may come close to an outright replacement, but more would need to be known about your door that the picture does not show to know for sure. <A> Possible? <S> , <S> yes. <S> Might it be hard work? <S> , also yes. <S> Painted over is a solvable problem, but it will involve getting the paint out of the slots of the screws, and cutting or breaking the paint film sticking the wood to the metal. <S> Paint can be removed, so do that. <S> If you remove the door you may be able to have someone less daunted by it work on it in their shop, rather than calling them out to your house to deal with it. <S> If you wrote appearing more daunted than you actually are, then start scraping paint out of the screw slots, and use a good screwdriver that fits the slots well to remove the screws. <A> Getting that lock out, keyed, and replaced may be a lot of trouble, maybe you could just install a surface deadbolt (under $20) instead? <S> They are not real secure but sounds like it would be good enough in this situation. <A> If you want to switch lock styles, plan to switch doors as well. <S> It looks like you could just pull the wood out and the latch will work again. <S> To add lock function, just cut/mortise out a hole in the frame the same size and placement as the deadbolt. <S> If you can find an appropriate plate for the door frame even better. <S> If you were dead set on changing lock/knob styles, you would probably need to cut bigger knob holes, and then fill in the space left by the mortise lock. <S> Getting it done well will be rather difficult. <S> You'd also need to cut a new latch hole in the frame and properly install a new plate.
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This is almost certainly a bit key lock with just a few levers; a good locksmith could get it all working again and give you an appropriate key if you want to maintain the history.
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What is the optimal screw drive hole shape to get the maximum torque for a steel screw? What is the optimal screw drive shape (such as philips, internal hex socket, or slot) that will allow the maximum amount of torque to be applied without having the drive hole stripped? The torque can be applied to the drive hole like in a philips head or to the head itself such has a hex head bolt. The screw in question would be made of heat-treated steel. The screw would be inserted into a threaded hole but it would be nice to know about a screw that is self tapping. Currently i mostly use philips head or hex head screws for drywall, wood, metal and plastic (abs). Of coarse my drill starts cam out and occasionally starts to strip my screw. Recently i used a square holed screw and the bit was so secure that the drill started to twist violently. This was not something i was used to as iv mostly used philips. So i was wondering based on the material strength what hole size would be optimal for high torque situation? <Q> Removing material from the head of the screw; no matter what shape, will weaken the screw slightly. <S> The only way to maintain the full strength of the screw; and therefore achieve maximum torque, is to not remove any material. <S> So a hex head screw (not to be confused with a hex drive screw), would allow for maximum torque. <A> For most home building applications, the 'high torque' option that would be most commonly available would be the (appropriately named) <S> torx screw : <S> Another option would be the Pozidriv : <S> Made by Phillips, it looks like a Phillips, but has 4 added notches at a 45 degree angle to the main 4. <S> It's designed to not cam out like a Phillips is. <S> Other screw heads used for high-torque applications that you wouldn't necessarily see in home building applications: Polidrive (used in the automotive industry): <S> Spline: Torque-set (aerospace industry): <S> Triple-square: <S> As for square drive heads, while they do offer more torque than flat or phillips head bits, they have a tendency to 'round out' if the bit isn't properly seated. <S> The main benefit to square heads is that the screw 'sticks' to the bit all by itself, so makes it a lot easier to get in the right spot in a lot of situations. <A> This is something of a religious debate. <S> It Is Claimed that Phillips was actually designed to "cam out" above a certain level of torque. <S> I'm not sure I believe that. <S> It Is Claimed that square-recess, or torx, or any of several other designs are best for transferring torque with least risk of cam-out and resulting damage. <S> I've used square and it does seem to be an improvement, though it isn't perfect. <S> I haven't used enough of the other variants in enough situations to have a valid opinion. <S> Some of the new designs allow "trim-head screws", which are about as close as a screw can get to finishing nails. <S> I used trim-head square drive screws for some window trim last year, and didn't feel too bad about leaving them visible. <S> Quick point: You probably do want the driver to cam out at a torque below that which would snap the screw...
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I would say the optimal screw hole shape that will allow the maximum amount of torque to be applied , would be no hole .
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What can one do with shower water? A relative is rebuilding his bathroom. Since he has a garden and he is all about "thinking green" he was wondering if he could use the shower water (or any other) in any way, like water plants. I found the idea interesting when he told me and we googled a bit around to see what solutions there are. We found many ways of saving water, but none to reuse. I assume one cant just use it directly due to the soap and other chemicals. Is there something that its practically doable in order to be able to reuse this water safely? The idea is to save money, but above all to avoid wasting water. <Q> The search term you are looking for is probably "greywater" (or graywater.) <S> Basically non-toilet (watercloset) waste water. <S> There are two aspects - one is legal and varies by location, the other is practical and does not, so much. <S> The legal aspect essentially comes down to whether your local jurisdiction prohibits or allows use of graywater (rather than requiring that it go into the sewer), and any specific regulations/rules <S> you must follow to use it in the jurisdiction. <S> Some places essentially limit you to the output of the kitchen sink, for fear of tiny amounts of bad things that might be in laundry or shower water; others do not. <S> Most have fairly strict rules to prevent the cross connection of sewage and greywater lines. <S> The practical aspects tend to have to do with things like filtering it through a reed bed or similar wetland plant-filter before making further use of it, which deals with the soaps, toothpaste, etc. <S> Any practical permaculture book tends to have a few diagrams of this sort of thing in it. <S> How practical this for a given house/garden depends on available space and topography. <S> If you are not in a terribly dry region, storing rainwater may be easier to manage than diverting and filtering greywater. <A> Apart from that, in most areas it isn't cost-effective to try to reuse it. <S> In NYC, fresh water is roughly $.01/gallon, and shower heads emit 1.5gpm. <S> So the water savings from a 5 minute shower are worth perhaps 3 cents; this doesn't even pay for the piping necessary to recycle it. <A> Another Green option may be one of the systems that tries to recover heat from wastewater, rather than or in addition to separating greywater and septic drains. <S> I've seen heat exchangers advertised, but have no information about whether they're really cost-effective. <A> I have reused bath water. <S> A standard crib sheet will fit perfectly over a standard oval 2x2x4 stock tank. <S> Have a friend help you wrap twine around the stock tank before you put the crib sheet on, so the weight of the water won't make the sheet collapse into the tank. <S> Pass water through the sheet to filter out most of the suds etc. <S> The resulting water looks quite clean, especially if you let it settle. <S> If it sits too long, it WILL get gross. <S> Use your nose and your own good judgement. <S> I put mine in a place to catch water from my rain gutter too. <S> My plants don't care, and the police certainly don't. <A> There are several considerations here: <S> What is the shower's flow rate? <S> Will the plants be flooded and die due to daily showers? <S> What are the ingredients in the shampoo/conditioner/body wash/soap? <S> Are they environmentally friendly? <S> If this water is being used to water a garden then do you really want the chemicals from the soaps making it into their stomach? <S> Maybe your relative plans on simply showering without soaps? <S> This sounds like the healthiest and most "green" solution. <S> Not sure what kind of work your relative does <S> but I know that I can get pretty greasy when working on a car. <S> I definitely see black/gray water running down my drain for a few minutes <S> so I don't want that in my garden. <S> And finally, like others have said, is this legal? <A> You can also wash your clothes with it. <S> Gray-water (which is already sudsy + detergent you add) for the first cycle, fresh water for the rinse cycle. <S> I believe there was an episode of "This Old House" <S> (here in the US) that did that for a home owner. <S> Very manual intensive though, home owner had to manually switch between collected gray-water and fresh water sources. <A> Salt buildup in the soil and killing the microscopic eco systems present (vital) in the soil itself would appear to be the major barrier to reusing shower water in the garden. <S> Plants themselves may tolerate some (biodegradable) soaps or detergents, but if the health of the soil itself is damaged, plants will suffer in the end. <S> This was a helpful link: <S> http://ecologycenter.org/factsheets/greywater-cleaning-products/ <S> I have often wondered about the plausibility of fitting a valve to kind of 'switch' drains (regular and 'clean'). <S> clean in this case being the water used before its used . <S> By that I mean; before it gets soapy or dirty - all the gallons wasted while waiting for the water to get hot. <S> Even then, when you first step into a shower, you spend an initial amount of time just enjoying getting wet - no soaps involved. <S> Maybe the same for some after the soaps are rinsed away. <S> This water is as close as can be to regular clean water, its just touched the air between the sprinkler head and the drain! <S> If the ultimate aim is to reduce waste water, then a shower clock can help cut down time spent in the shower - and a lower flow rate shower head will also limit the amount of water used. <S> These two alone will massively limit overall water use/waste. <S> Final tip (I know its kinda off topic, sorry), turn off the water while getting soapy!
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You can pipe it to a tank and use it to flush lower-floor toilets.
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Protecting CSST Through Studs - Are there no off-the-shelf solutions? I am having a hard time meeting the protection requirements outlined in the manufacturer's specifications. I'm installing HomeFlex CSST in California - California's plumbing code defers to the manufacturer for most of the installation requirements for CSST. HomeFlex requires that horizontal runs through studs have 5" of protection on either side of each stud through which it passes (when it is within 2" of the edge, inevitable when dealing with 2x4s). However, HomeFlex does not provide a branded product to accomplish this (which is generally preferred, as mixing/matching brands in the same CSST install is usually a show-stopper for inspections), and I am unable to find anything of sufficient dimensions @ 16 gauge hardened steel that meet the requirements for protecting CSST. At this point, the only 2 options I can see to meet the requirements established by HomeFlex, are to either fabricate my own striker plates or to find the odd-sized 1-1/4" steel pipe that is noted as an acceptable alternative, and cut it to 11-1/2" lengths (5" + 1-1/2" + 5"). Are these really my only options (other than ripping it out and using black pipe)? What are others doing to address this requirement? Here's the relevant part of the documentation (full doc is here ): Update: I have found some products on the horizon from other CSST manufacturers (namely Gastite), however these, made by any brand, do not appear to be yet available for sale from anywhere: <Q> The manufacturer's installation manual describes the plate that can be used, and even includes the part number. <S> Which is available at Home Depot , and Amazon . <S> It also says in the Protection section of the document " <S> For tubing routed horizontally between studs, striker plates should be installed at each stud, and Flexible Protective Conduit, or other approved conduit, should be installed across the entire length of the run. " <S> (see point 4 below), and " schedule <S> 40 steel pipe has been found acceptable by CSA International for puncture protection. ". <S> Just cut the pipe in 12" sections, and install the tubing in the pipe where it passes through studs. <A> These type of protection plates are sold at most electric supply stores, and probably with plumbing supplies as well <S> ( I see them exclusively in the electric department at Lowes or Home Depot). <S> Here is a link to a product page for a protection plate . <S> Here's what it looks like: <A> They are abundant in lengths to satisfy minimum (11 1/2") for 2 x 4s. <S> Cutting up schedule 40 iron pipe feels to me like you are defeating the purpose of using CSST. <A> An alternative product to the other answers / references is a Simpson Strong-Tie PSPN516Z "Galvanized 5 in. <S> x 16-5/16 in. <S> 16-Gauge <S> Protecting Shield Plate Nail Stopper".
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So you could always use schedule 40 steel pipe to protect the pipe. Use a flat steel plate designed for framing applications (Simpson Strong Tie makes plenty).
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How to cover exposed attic wall insulation I have a small walk (crouch)-in attic from the closet of one of my upstairs bedrooms. It has insulation on the walls that form the bedroom closet/wall. Given how small the attic is, whenever I go in there and place/remove things I tend to brush up against the insulation pulling it out from between the studs (see pictures below). I plan on stapling plastic to the studs to hold the insulation in. Is there an issue with this plan? <Q> Plastic isn't recommended in this situation because it would create a second vapor barrier that can trap moisture and result in condensation and mold. <S> Craft paper would have the same problem, this is what is most likely on the other side of the insulation for the vapor barrier you want. <S> The good solution for this is a house wrap material (often referred to by the popular commercial brand Tyvek) which allows vapor to pass through while blocking water itself on the outside of the home. <S> You can also put up a thin board, plywood, or even drywall, if the goal is simply to prevent accidental contact. <S> If you already installed plastic, then cutting some slits to vent air both high and low in each wall cavity may prevent any condensation issues. <A> "What... can I put over the insulation...? <S> fire-resistant craft paper <S> Should I put insulation in between the rafters? <S> NO, it's not a "living space", why spend $ insulating it? <A> For covering the fiberglass & pushing it back to the studs 1/4" foam board insulation will fix it up right. <S> It'll still let the house breathe correctly (plastic sheeting won't) & get everything clean & tight. <S> Screw it in sparingly with either large washers or thin galvanized metal strapping to keep the wall flat & the foam board from ripping due to abnormal bulge force around the door. <A> If you aren't worried about touching the insulation, and just want to make sure it stays in place, nylon cord or twine stapled across each bay in a zig-zag pattern will be one of your easiest approaches. <S> I've got this in a few places in my house. <S> You never want more than one vapor barrier. <S> Plastic sheets, fire paper, and foam-board are all vapor barriers or retarders.
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Covering the whole wall in any kind of sheeting or additional insulation can cause moisture problems.
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Connecting gas logs to small propane tank I'd like to install some propane-gas based logs in my fireplace to use as an auxiliary heat source this winter. Mainly for when the power goes out (I have electric heat pump), or for very cold morning while eating breakfast. As such, I don't want or need a massive buried tank for propane at my house. I considered a 100lb tank however, 1) the local gas companies won't fill these at the house, and 2) as I understand it, these tanks must be transported vertically, which will be very difficult for me (even though I have a pickup). I would like to use 40lb tanks instead or even the bbq size 20lb tanks (keeping extras on hand), but am confused on what parts I need to hook the gas logs up. Assuming I come out of a 1/2" black pipe from the outside wall of the chimney, I believe I need a twin regulator with a pigtail connector like this one, but I'm not 100% it's correct. Can anyone verify this will work with what I am trying to do? <Q> I just did the same thing. <S> I installed an Empire vent free log set in my wood <S> burning fireplace that I plan to use mostly in a vented manner. <S> I ran black pipe from the outside on my open air back porch into the fireplace which attached to the gas log burner controls. <S> For the outside, I simply attached a standard BBQ replacement propane hose with regulator to a 20lb tank. <S> It works just fine. <S> My log set is around 32000 btu <S> so I can expect around 10.5-11 hours on a 20lb tank. <S> I plan to get a 40lb tank. <S> Try to find a hose/regulator that is 3/8" which should provide a bit more gas to the logs. <S> Be aware that local code might require you to have a gas shutoff installed inside the house. <S> Mine does, so I installed one. <S> One caution. <S> Be sure to get a gas log set that does NOT have a continuous pilot light. <S> A pilot light running 24/7 will use about 8 gallons of propane a month. <S> That's 2 20lb tanks worth of propane. <A> Most gas log suppliers for propane say to use at least a 100 lb. <S> Tank. <S> At really cold temps, the small tanks don't work correctly....... <S> it's a pressure issue. <A> I just had my 120 gal. <S> underground tank shut off by the propane supplier. <S> I already had a male fitting on the outside of the house on the line that comes thru the wall into the fireplace. <S> I hooked a 20lb BBQ grill tank to it with the standard Char Broil Universal hose and regulator from Lowe's. <S> I works perfectly. <S> I weighed the tank first and ran the fireplace for one hour. <S> It used about 1.5lbs of propane. <S> At this rate a 20lb tank would last about 10-11 hours. <S> Refills are only $12 at BJ's.
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One issue for you might be if your logs don't have the proper flame, it may be due to the hose used to connect to the tank being 1/4".
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How can I center a TV on a wall with a centered stud? I have a 60" Panasonic Plasma TV that weighs 81 lbs. I want to hang it on the wall using a full-motion wall mount made to handle 175 lbs. The wall is drywall with wood studs. I plan on using the 4 lag bolts provided on two studs. I don't know the size of the lag bolts. The Instructions say to drill 3.5" pilot holes using a .25" bit. So, my guess the lag bolts are slightly bigger like 3/8". The problem I have is with the wood studs. There is one at the center of the wall. To the right, the next one is 12-13" apart (center to center). To the left, the next one is 16" away. These are 2x4 studs. The wall plate on the wall mount has many holes in the back for the lag bolts. Would it be safe to shift the mount off center so that the end result is the TV is centered to the wall (but not the studs). If it is not safe, would it load be easier to the studs on 13" apart or 16" apart? If I can do option 1 but have to give up extending out the TV, I am ok with that. UPDATE: Thanks for all the input so far. The TV mount has 2 arms that attach the wall mount plate to the tv mount plate (they come together like a "V") but they cannot slide or adjust. Here is a link to the TV mount, product 12280 on monoprice. You can also some of it on the box in my pictures. http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12280&seq=1&format=2 I want to use 2 studs (and 4 lag bolts) but do not want to add any new boards behind or on the drywall. These two pictures represent the options I am considering. As you can see, with Option 1 (red arrows) the TV will only be 3" off center to the Center Stud but it leaves 8" of the wall mount unsupported. Would this be an issue when I pull the TV out? Would strap toggles be necessary on the left side of wall mount? Option 2 (blue arrows) looks for secure to me, but is further from center so I would only consider it if Option 1 is not safe. Thanks! <Q> Measure the side to side of the back plate. <S> (BTW: most wall framing is established at 16 inches on center or 14 1/2 inches in between 2 wall studs). <S> If your plat measures at least 16 inches install it on the 2 studs closest to the center of the wall. <S> Some TV wall mounts have 3 axis' of adjustment: one axis allows you to swivel the TV side to side. <S> This makes it easier to orient the TV on the center if the mounting plate was not. <S> Also, it may be possible, depending on the mounting plate type, to offset the bracket that attaches to the back of the TV so that when it is hung on the wall mounting plate it is closer to room center. <A> Sanus makes tilting wall mounts that are designed for an off-center mounting on a stud. <S> You can adjust the television a couple of inches to the right or left of the stud so that it sits where you want it to be. <S> Check out their website for more details. <S> They have a model that'll hold up to a 130 pound TV, or so their engineers claim. <A> It isn't necessary to center the mount on the studs. <S> As long as you hit the studs, you'll be fine. <S> Make sure you locate them as accurately as possible. <S> UPDATE: <S> Both of the options in your update would be fine. <S> As long as you hit two studs, with the center of the mount between the studs, it will be solid. <S> The lags would bear the lion's share of the weight (and would probably be adequate by themselves) and the Snaptoggles would insure that the mount doesn't flex / stays flat. <A> If you can offset the mount to hit two studs, that would be better, as @ojait suggests. <S> If you would rather leave it centered, you can. <S> The main stress on a fixed TV wall mount attached to one stud with two lag bolts is downward. <S> This puts a shear stress on the mounting lag bolts and compression stress on the holes in the studs. <S> There is also some outward stress. <S> This is a form of tension on both the lag bolts and the studs themselves. <S> When you use a full motion mount, the outward tension stress increases greatly as the TV is tilted, and there is also a twisting, or torsion <S> stress on the bolts and the studs as the TV is moved from side to side. <S> Two well placed lag bolts can handle most of the stress, but you should supplement them with wallboard anchors at both sides of the mount. <S> I would recommend using two on each side and would use strap toggles . <S> The straps are shifted so the metal toggle section is parallel, inserted into a predrilled hole in the drywall. <S> The straps are then shifted, turning the toggle perpendicular to the strap and parallel to the inside of the drywall. <S> The toggle is then snugged to the wall by pushing the collar to the outside surface of the drywall, and the excess straps are broken off. <S> The bolt is then inserted through the mount and into the toggle. <S> These will hold the mount tightly and spread the outward and twisting stresses over a large area of drywall. <S> The lag bolts will still carry most of the stresses. <S> You should be fine. <A> 4 lags in two studs is sufficient. <S> The 8" mentioned is not "unsupported" <S> it is cantilevered with plenty of support.
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If you want it right on center, you could put two lags through the center of the mount into the center stud, and a pair of Snaptoggles into the drywall on either side. I believe that most manufacturer's will have the plate long enough to span 2 wall studs.
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How do I display the US flag at half staff with a standard house flag pole holder? I recently purchased one of these (in the picture below) and a few flags to be on display. However, how should I display the American flag at half staff? Should I manually adjust it on the pole I have (it doesn't have pulleys to adjust it) or should I just the lower pole location on the mount? (Also sorry if this is in the wrong S.E. as I wasn't sure where this should belong) <Q> I couldn't find a more 'official' site that lists this custom, but flying a black streamer with the flag is appropriate when the flag cannot physically be lowered. <S> This blog posting is one random source, but if you search for "half mast black streamer" you get many results. <S> Possibly a more reputable source (worthiness left for you to decide): <S> http://www.cnn.com/2011/LIVING/05/30/fly.american.flag.mf/ <S> What if I can't fly my flag at half-staff? <S> Some flags, like the ones commonly seen in school classrooms or on houses, are fixed in a certain position on their poles. <S> How does one handle the sticky situation of a flag that physically can't be flown at half-staff? <S> The United States Code doesn't cover this conundrum, but <S> the American Legion advocates adding a black ribbon to the top of the flag's pole to indicate mourning. <A> This is what the "chin" loop is for. <S> Some house brackets have a knob so a knurled bracket can be loosened, the pole lowered and then the bracket tightened to hold the flag at a lower angle. <A> How is the flag presently fastened to the staff? <S> It seems, from what I remember, they are stapled to a 5/8 inch (?) dowel. <S> Regardless, depending on the length of the original staff or the size of the flag, you may need a to increase the length of the dowel (or find a smaller flag) in order to orient it at half mast. <S> Remember the longer the dowel <S> the easier it is to bend and <S> the greater the force that is exerted on the bracket. <S> Some possible material for a longer new mast might be: copper or PVC pipe, re-bar, EMT conduit, aluminum tubing, etc.
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The flag is lowered by moving the pole into the lower part of the bracket so the pole is more parallel to the ground.
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Install plastic between drywall ceilings and rafters? We are building a new house and are getting ready to install the drywall on the ceilings. We have installed a 6 mil plastic barrier on the underside of the rafters to act as an air & moisture barrier. The barrier will be sandwiched between the drywall and the rafters and under the blow-in insulation. I talked with another insulation guy that said he thinks it might trap moisture in the house and cause problems with the ceilings. He thinks we should tear out the plastic before we install the drywall ceilings. Does anyone know if the plastic barrier will help or hurt us? <Q> the plastic will trap moisture in your sheetrock and can cause black moldsome areas require hazmat teams for black mold removal, Ran into this a few years ago <S> and it was quite expensive for the home owner. <A> It depends on your local climate. <S> For climates that are higher humidity inside than outside in summer (a dry climate) plastic on the interior is OK. <S> For climates that are higher humidity outside during the summer (a humid climate) <S> plastic on the interior could be a serious mistake. <S> Here is a link to a good brief discussion titled, "What happens when you put a plastic vapor barrier in your wall?" <S> : http://www.energyvanguard.com/blog-building-science-HERS-BPI/bid/75130/What-Happens-When-You-Put-a-Plastic-Vapor-Barrier-in-Your-Wall <A> It doesn't lead to mould here, because there is always insulation between the vapour barrier and the outside of the house. <S> Therefore, the barrier is always warm, and there isn't any condensation. <S> If you don't have a vapour barrier, moisture from your house will condense on the outside of your insulation, reducing its effectiveness, and possibly creating a mould problem in your attic. <S> I can see that if you live in a very hot, humid climate, and your house is air conditioned, the vapour barrier could create a problem. <S> However, I believe the climate in Ohio is not too much different from the climate in southern Ontario, where these building code requirements apply. <A> Unlike the moisture-vapor impermeable polyethylene foil you have installed, they are designed to allow some moisture vapor to diffuse. <S> The diffusion rate is sometimes a function of the temperature. <S> There are many anecdotal stories of moisture puddles building up on top of PE foil. <S> Some amount of diffusion is desired; you don't want to live in a plastic bubble. <S> Google vapor barrier vs vapor diffusion. <S> Lots of good building advice. <S> Looks at products like Isover diffusion foils. <S> I used ProClima Intello Plus in my home renovation. <S> The only place I used a true barrier (PE) was in the bathrooms.
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If you have very cold winters in your area without very high summer humidity, then a vapor barrier near the inside will help keep your insulation dry when it is cold outside and your house is relatively warm and humid, otherwise take the plastic out. Where I live, Canada, the building code requires a vapour barrier like you have installed. There are construction products specifically for this purpose.
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Is it safe to encapsulate lead shot with epoxy? I hope this is the right SE for this question. If not please point me in a better direction. I'm working on a project that requires a counterweight in a tight/organic space. I'm trying to maximize the weight so I need a dense material -- the denser the better. A material that's easy to machine would be OK, but ideally something that could conform to the space would be better. These requirements led me to consider lead shot or lead wool as an option. My concern is obviously safety. I'm wondering if it is safe to encapsulate the lead with something like epoxy. My understanding is that lead poisoning typically arrises from ingestion, inhalation, and dermal contact. I imagine that if I encapsulate the lead in something like epoxy then those three pathways are no longer relevant, but I'm just not sure and would rather avoid taking chances. Maybe the only risk is during the encapsulation process? Clearly lead is used in a variety of applications with human contact (e.g. lead vests for x-ray) so there must be someway to properly shield it from the surrounding environment. <Q> You are correct in that lead is pretty inert, especially when encapsulated. <S> I would only worry about proper disposal once you are done with it, and how you plan to shape it (since a drill or saw could cause lead to become airborne, hammering should be safer). <S> If you are worried about health and safety, perhaps a different metal could be used, though they're generally going to be more expensive than lead. <S> Also, keep in mind that lead isn't that much heavier than other common metals. <S> Lead is 11.3 g <S> /cm^3 while iron is 7.8 g/cm^3 and nickel is 8.9 g <S> /cm^3. <S> If you want something very dense, depleted uranium would be an excellent choice (except for the health concerns with respect to breathing or eating it and availability issues due to it being a controlled substance). <S> Gold is also pretty dense, and quite safe. <A> The only form of lead that is significantly absorbed through the skin is tetraethyl lead, which was found in gasoline long ago. <S> That's not in lead shot, so you'll be fine on that count. <S> The main way that lead becomes dangerous is if tiny lead particles are eaten or inhaled. <S> Eating lead is significantly more dangerous for children since a higher percentage of eaten lead is absorbed vs pooped out. <S> Just keep the lead shot in a plastic ziplock baggie or something and you've reduced the risk by 99.9%. <A> Lead is not dangerous unless significant amounts are absorbed by the body. <S> Unless the lead is in a solvent or a fine aerosol or is consumed in large quantities, this is not generally possible. <S> Many houses have older windows with 10-lb lead sash counterweights in the frames. <A> Tungsten is considerably denser than lead. <S> 19.3 g/cc .vs. <S> 11.34 for lead Evidently when tungsten weights are called for <S> , "heavy alloy tungsten" is more commonly used since it's much easier to machine than pure tungsten, if extremely high heat resistance is not called for. <S> that ranges from 17-18.5 g/cm based on some sloppy research. <S> On the third hand, 19.3 g/cm can also be had in gold, and is quite common for use in "human tissue contact" due to non-reactivity, if that's what "tight/organic" was driving at. <S> Spendy, but so is poisoning people. <S> Oh, a wooden lamp base - pour it full of molten lead and call it a day. <S> Or use plaster, concrete, ball bearings, etc...
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As long as you avoid eating the lead shot or breathing in lead-bearing gasses (e.g. from deliberately inhaling smelting fumes or gunsmoke), you really have nothing to worry about. Quickly looking at metal density tables, you may also be able to use tungsten (much heavier than lead).
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New House Wiring in Attic + Conduit I own an old house (50s) for which the electrical is outdated (no ground, etc), so I am in the process of rewiring the whole house. The attic has tons of insulation (loose insulation atop fiberglass batts, etc), and below the insulation often it has plywood boards (subfloor). Navigating and finding anything through all this insulation is a real pain and time consuming. Since much of the wire will be routed onto the top of the plywood (and not beside the joists at 1 1/4" from their edges) once I run the wires parallel to the joists (joists are below plywood subfloor) I would imagine that the wire would need to be protected by a conduit or wood strips; so can one use emt conduit instead of wood strips on top of the attic subfloor and could the conduit be attached to the attic subfloor wherein the wires would run (and in case someone would go the attic he/she could step on the conduits)? It would be romex (sometimes thhn) inside the conduit (and the conduit would be derated to accommodate the nm-b wiring). By the way, the attic is accessible; and the conduit seems a much better option due to make it easier to upgrade and change the wires in the future. <Q> If you're running the wiring along the floor of the attic; or within 7' of the floor, you'll have to protect the wiring within 6' of the point of access. <S> I've quoted the actual code on this elsewhere on the site <A> Other than the part where you are putting Romex (NM-B) in the conduit, I not only like your plan, I'm doing something like it myself. <S> I've seen too many rodent-chewed wires to be overly comfortable any other way, no matter if code would find less protection acceptable. <S> I don't find it acceptable, and the cost is not all that great. <S> If the conduit is sized for the NM-B (as a round wire the diameter of the large dimension of the oval) you CAN do that, but it's miserable to pull and inefficient (of conduit size) <S> .vs. <S> just using THHN when in conduit. <S> If leaving conduit, make a junction in a junction box when transitioning to NM-B. While not having rodents in the house is a great idea as well <S> , it's one that's hard to guarantee in practice over the long term... <A> There is no need to run conduit in a home for most of your outlets, Romex is fine for outlets/ lighting circuits in the crawl space walls and attic as long as it is stapled to the trusses and within 6"? <S> To the box, if you run , THHN it is required to be in conduit for protection for 14 & 12 gauge wire there are exceptions in my area for larger feeders to a sub panel but if in a living space it is way cheaper to run Romex than the additional cost of even plastic conduit
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Unless the attic is accessible via a permanent staircase or ladder, then you'll have to protect the wiring run across the floor (or within 7' of the floor) throughout the entire attic.
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Is slightly high voltage bad for a refrigerator? I had a mini freezer fail. I bought a new one which worked for a day or two, but I came home today and it was not running and the compressor was hot and everything in it melted. I measured the voltage and it read 124V AC. The listed voltage for the freezer is 110V. Could the slighter higher voltage be damaging the compressor? The freezer has plenty of ventilation. <Q> I agree with the others that you probably need a replacement under warranty. <S> Answering your question: Most motors are rated for the UL label nominal +/- <S> 10%. <S> The tolerance delivered by many utilities is their nominal line voltage +/- <S> 5%. <S> The UL label on your compressor hopefully states it is rated at 115v, giving it an actual operating range of 104-126v, notwithstanding the 110v documentation that came with the unit. <S> Generally though, fractional horsepower motors like the one in your freezer are somewhat more forgiving. <S> Also, these motors are thermally protected with an automatic reset. <S> Even if the voltage is a bit high and the motor gets a bit hot, the unit should cycle occasionally on the thermal overload, temporarily shutting off and then returning to service. <S> A thermal trip and reset like this should not cause the freezer to thaw out. <A> It is supposed to be 120V +/- <S> 5%, so 126V on the high side. <S> The freezer should be designed to handle that without issue. <S> Did you leave it unplugged for awhile after setting it up at home? <S> Most have instructions that they need to be left to sit for several hours, sometimes a day, after transport - especially if it wasn't transported upright. <S> I believe this is so the liquids can settle to the right spot in the compressor. <S> Failing to do that can cause compressor problems. <A> 124 would actually help the compressor start easier in the U.S. <S> Where nominal voltage is 110-120 vac RMS. <S> if it was laid on its side or upside down all the oil in the system could have been on the wrong side of the compressor, even old R12 units could fail from being turned on after being not right side up but today's 134a and even some older units cannot take the heat if there is no oil to keep the compressor cool the "freon" breaks down very quickly, if a unit is put on its side it needs to be up right at least 24 hours then <S> a few minutes run and shut down wait 6-8 hours <S> and then most times they will be okSounds like if new you should take it backIMHO
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Higher voltage than nominal+10% can saturate the magnetic cores of a motor, causing rapid overcurrent and overheating, which exponentially gets worse as the supply voltage is increased. 124V is within the typical range.
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What type of pipe joint is this, and how do I repair it? The plastic pipe under my kitchen sink is leaking. This top pipe seems to simply be resting on the bottom section. Is this how it is supposed to be? I can freely pull the pipes apart with a little bit of force... Where can I get more information on this type of joint? <Q> That's known as a slip joint . <S> If you remove the slip nut , you should find a beveled washer on the pipe. <S> To put the joint together, you'll slide the slip nut onto the upper pipe, followed by the beveled washer (bevel side down). <S> Then you'll slip the upper pipe inside the lower pipe, and use the nut to tighten the joint. <S> When tightening this type of joint, you want to be careful not to overtightened. <S> Hand tight is usually all it takes. <A> In the UK this would be called a compression waste fitting . <S> There is a rubber ring that goes around the pipe, and is squashed by tightening the nut, in order to achieve a watertight seal. <S> The pipe should go past the nut, into the fitting, until it stops. <S> This would probably be an inch (25mm) or slightly more. <S> To fix the joint: <S> Unscrew the nut <S> Remove the pipe <S> Clean the pipe <S> (it looks filthy - this will make it difficult to make it watertight) <S> Check <S> the rubber ring is intact (if not, buy a new one from your local hardware store) <S> Lubricate the ring with detergent or soap (or something similar) <S> Put the ring over the pipe <S> (Note: there should be a chamfer on the ring. <S> This chamfer goes inside the fitting. <S> This picture is the best I could find to show it) <S> Put the pipe inside the fitting (as far as it goes - hopefully the pipe is long enough) <S> Tighten the nut. <S> " <S> Hand-tight" is enough - i.e. don't try too hard to tighten it. <S> if you do you can distort the rubber ring and hence lose water-tightness) <S> One alternative point: If the water is collecting at this joint, it is not necessarily this joint which is leaking. <S> I once took a joint apart and put it back together three times, trying to make it watertight, before I realised that the joint above was the one leaking, and the water was just collecting at the lower joint. <S> However, given that you say the pipe comes out of this joint easily, it probably is this joint which is leaking. <A> The fitting in the photo is called a "T"fitting. <S> It is made from PVC (polyvinyl chloride). <S> It also is used for a double sink when two drains are needed. <S> Hence the "t" shape. <S> If not connected correctly they will become loosened. <S> The top section should penetrate the lower for at least 1-2 inches. <S> Also, check the washer is not split. <S> Unscrew the nut and lift it up. <S> Under it is a plastic washer, make sure it is not broke. <S> Push the top or lift the lower sections and re fasten the nut hand tight. <S> Run the water and check for leaks.
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The trap should be attached to the bottom of this piece, probably using another slip joint. Looks like it's a waste tee similar to this. It should be just tight enough, so that the pipes don't easily come apart. It looks to be a 1 1/2 inch diameter pipe (as opposed to a 1 1/4 inch).
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Mounting a TV on the wall I am trying to mount a 20 inch TV on a plasterboard wall. There are only two studs in the wall. One where I won't be able to see the TV and the other above an electrical socket. I do not want to put the bracket on the stud with the socket. Nothing is in line in my house, so god only knows where the cable is. The only other wall is a chimney breast. I am reluctant to mount it there, in case I get it wrong. Also my drill is a bit week when going through brick. I really want to do this my self and not ask my brother. Many thanks. <Q> Check out "togglers". <S> They work extremely well. <S> Two of them should be more than enough for a 20" TV. <S> Along the togglers you'll need a 1/2" drill bit. <S> http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php <A> I use "AUGER" style screw in anchors if i have a heavy load on sheetrock with no stud in the area. <S> There are several types plastic and metal the metal ones are better (IMHO), and if renting they can be removed and the hole filled. <S> The metal ones many times can be reused , the plastic ones are usually toast when removed.if you google "auger sheetrock anchors" there are even videos on how to use themhope this helps. <A> Perhaps adding an adhesive like this would increase the surface-contact area. <S> You can then mount the TV mount to the plywood. <S> With the glue, keep in mind that your wall will be trashed behind the board if you ever decide to remove the plywood. <S> The purpose of this is to spread out the weight of the mount+TV over a larger area. <S> Then add some decorative trim and/or paint to match. <S> Regarding drilling in brick, make sure you're using a (not dull) masonry bit. <S> That may explain why you're having trouble drilling through it. <S> There are also relatively inexpensive TV mounts on MonoPrice made specifically for mounting on brick/concrete (example, not endorsement).
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While mounting to studs would be preferable, one strategy I've seen done involves getting a sheet of plywood larger than the mount and mounting this to the wall - giving you the ability to use more anchors/screws than the TV mount allows.
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Installing a Pilot Light Electrical Switch I want to replace a single pole wall switch that contols a closet light with a single pole pilot light switch. The pilot light is supposed to light when the closet light is on. The current wall switch is outside the closet. I looked in the switch box and there are two wires (ablack and a white) and a bare copper ground that are connected to the existing switch. The black and white wires are connected to two screws on the right side of the single pole switch. The new Leviton pilot light switch has a brass screw (top right), a black screw (bottom right), a silver screw (top left), and a green ground screw (bottom left). I know where the ground wire is connected. Question: How do I connect the black and white romex wires to the new pilot light switch so that the pilot is 'ON" when the switch is "ON"? There must be something simple that I am overlooking, but I can't figure this out. Help! <Q> It appears the switch you've purchased requires a neutral and you do not have a neutral wire available at your switch (only the hot and the switched hot). <S> You'll need to either run a line to the switch that includes a neutral, which is now a standard practice, or you need to find a switch that will work without a dedicated neutral. <S> Finding the latter may be difficult as the versions with a dedicated neutral are fairly standard. <A> To wire this switch you will need a third wire (a return leg) from the light fixture. <S> If you can run the third wire than the switch can be wired thusly: Black (hot) wire from the box attaches to the brass screw of the switch, White (neutral) wire from the box attaches to the silver <S> colored screw on the switch, <S> the third wire (which you will need to install) is the return leg and it attaches to the dark screw on the switch. <S> This will have it so the pilot light is only lit when the other light is on. <A> There are switches which illuminate when the switch is " off " that do not require a neutral, this is because they trickle a small amount of current through the lighted switch component, through the actual switched load to the load's neutral conductor; the amount of current is so small that the load is not sufficiently energized as to cause it to operate (note: if the load were very small, such as a light bulb <S> the size of the illuminated switch component, the load would operate, i.e. light up, while the switch was " off ").
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Switches that feature a light which illuminates when the switch is " on " require a neutral conductor.
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Digging a well, hitting a rock I am digging a well with a hand-powered auger. I am 20 feet down and I am hitting a rock. How can I break up this rock so I can continue digging? <Q> You might want to check with knowledgeable people about drilling in your area. <S> Perhaps you have dug into bedrock. <S> Or there is a large monolith buried there. :-) <S> In the U.S., the USGS has much data available for your perusal. <S> Perhaps you have neighbors with wells? <S> Talk to them and see what their experience was. <S> Even if theirs were drilled 50+ years ago, well digging stories seem to survive the ages. <S> Your municipality might have well digging advice and experience and can advise on best drilling practices. <A> rig up a 20 foot masonry bit extension and perforate the outline of you hole on it. <S> There is also a product that will shatter boulders by using a material that expands in the holes drilled. <S> heres a link http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EUBR2RY?keywords=rock%20breaker&qid=1445003598&ref_=sr_1_12&sr=8-12 <A> Probably way too late but when I ran into rock I took the head off and smashed whatever I was hitting... seemed to work pretty well... <S> Unless you live in an area with hard bedrock you could probably get away with this...
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Also if you are digging into bedrock you might try dropping a really heavy pipe down there to break it.
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How to anchor through .5 inch drywall/.75 inch wood/concrete block Installing a TV wall mount. The issue is that the wall is 1/2" dry over 1x2 wood spaced 24 inch on center and then concrete block. What is the best fastner to to use considering the first 1 1/4" would not hold a TV mount for a 70 lb TV. Would like to secure into the concrete block.Most of the sleeve anchors I have seen online looked like they would rely more on the wood than concrete since they are only 2.25 inches long.. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. <Q> I would drill a slightly oversized hole through the drywall and wood, then drill full depth in the concrete for the sleeve anchors. <S> Set the anchors flush with the surface of the concrete. <S> I would then use over-length bolts into the anchors, at least 3". <S> For extra stability, I might put a metal spacer in the oversized hole in the wood and drywall, and have the bolt pass through it. <A> This sounds like a perfect use of Tapcon anchors. <S> They are hardened steel screws that actually thread into concrete once an appropriate pilot hole is drilled: <S> I'm not sure if such a specific product recommendation is bad form on this site, but I'm not sure of a more "generic" approach. <S> Since these are threaded, they will use the 1x2s and the concrete block for strength. <S> Going through the drywall <S> , then an air gap, then the block might be a bad idea unless most of the other screws are going through the 1x2s. <S> If you can't screw the mount to the 1x2s because of their location and/or spacing, the canonical solution is to screw a between the 1x2s then screw the mount to the boards. <A> Try a builder's supply store instead of a "big box" store. <S> Hollow block would require a different type of anchor like the second picture. <S> Per the manufacturer of one type: " Versatile fully threaded design is standard on sizes up to 3/4" diameter and 10" length. "
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Use a "wedge type" expansion anchor, you can buy them in lengths that will work fine for your application, assuming the block is filled, not hollow.
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Quick flooring for uneven floor We're having an HVAC unit replaced. The unit has been removed and the contractor is coming back Monday to start installing the new unit. We'd like to do something about the terrible floor that is in that closet. The existing floor is many layers of old, uneven, cracked tile. The topmost later is a vinyl sheet that covers most, but not all of the floor. What can we put over this that would be fast and easy? Would vinyl sheet be resilient enough to smooth out some bumps? Is there something we can apply to the old floor to even it out some? We don't need anything nice or pretty - just something a little more sanitary. We don't want to make this a major project, but would like to take the opportunity to make a small improvement. <Q> IMO - It shouldn't be ridiculous to tear up any and all linoleum and tile with a good floor scraper down to the subfloor. <S> Then a nice piece of plywood cut to fit and a bit of paint is a great way to go. <S> Otherwise, I'd mix up a batch of a Floor Leveling Compound, then a nice piece of linoleum (sometimes had for free as a drop from your local flooring depot). <S> I'm tend to lean on <S> the "just tear it all out" kind of project, but a leveling compound will not only give you a level floor <S> , it will definitely fill any gaps, crevices, etc. <A> If you just put something else down " quick ", you're contributing to the problem, not solving it. <S> As others have said, rip it out down to the subfloor, and then put new flooring down. <S> While you are right to be concerned about asbestos. <S> Obviously, if you have any vulnerable folks in the home (kids, elderly, asthmatics, etc.), make sure they're not home while you rip the floor out. <S> Also make sure you wear a properly fitting dust mask, and gloves. <S> My recommendation is to remove the problem, and start fresh. <A> Get a cold chisel (sometimes called a flooring chisel) and breakout the old tile. <S> For something like a closet, this should only take a couple of hours at most. <S> If it is concrete, you just might need to scrape it until smooth as you probably do not have the time to put self leveling concrete down. <S> Once you have a clean subfloor, lay the vinyl on top. <A> If you don't need to match the floor level, I'd consider a layer of backerboard set in thinset on top of the existing cruddy floor. <S> You get the filling effect plus a more durable component. <S> You can cover that with sheet vinyl or not as you choose. <S> Old buildings and "plastic" (vinyl-like, composition, whatever that's not ceramic) tile does provide the specter of asbestos for any tear-out process. <S> If its just linoleum over ceramic tile, tear away, but that seems unlikely with "many layers"
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Once the tile is out, put a new subfloor down. Keeping the floor damp while you rip it out, will reduce the dust and the risk of asbestos becoming airborne. If the original subfloor is wood, use 1/4 to 1/2 plywood screwed over the old floor into the joists. The tiny amount that may be in the closet, is probably about as harmful as breathing in secondhand smoke once. At the end of the day, it's your home, and you're free to do what you want. But it will bump the floor up a certain amount.
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Best way to take wood glue off of tools? I try to clean my tools after working with wood glue but i always miss a spot here or there. My square is covered with wood glue because i didn't clean it fast enough. Whats the best way to take the glue off? I don't want to damage the plastic or metal on this precise part. <Q> Bucket of hot water and a utility knife is what I use. <S> Let tool sit in bucket. <S> Sometimes after a couple minutes you can just touch the glue and it falls apart. <S> If it is a strong glue it will pop off with the utility knife. <S> The hot water is the fastest way I know because it heats both the glue and the tool. <S> Heating the tool causes its molecules to contract, weakening the bond and the glue <S> just melts most of the time. <A> It depends what kind of wood glue it is. <S> Polyurethane glue is very hard to dissolve with solvent. <S> There are products made specifically for this difficult cleanup, but I have not tried any. <S> One thing that did work for me was spray carburetor cleaner, but that is harsh stuff <S> , I doubt it would damage the metal <S> but it may damage the plastic. <A> For regular wood glue (like titebond or elmers), heat will soften it. <S> Only question is whether or not you can find a way to heat up a particular tool enough without damaging the tool. <S> I would try a hair dryer or heat gun while being careful to avoid over-doing it. <S> For items that are likely to get glue on them frequently, many woodworkers use paste wax as a preventative measure. <S> Things like clamps and squares used to square up a piece while glue is drying should have several layers of wax applied before use. <A> a can of computer duster spray. <S> flip it upside down and shoot the liquid on the glue until it freezes then pick it off with a sharp knife. <S> that works on nearly every surface and <S> all forms of glue except epoxy.
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Regular white or yellow wood glues are not so bad, I'd try soaking the square in paint thinner, but that might even damage some types of plastic.
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What are these nail pops that keep popping up in my house? I've only lived in this house for six months and there are these weird dimples that keep raising. It started with one and has now gotten to be around 7-8. All but one are on the upstairs ceiling. The one that isn't is on the lower part of the wall on the front of the house. I've looked online and it doesn't look like termite or carpenter ant damage. They're all small little raises that appear to get worse. Not sure what I'm even looking at so I don't know what to do. Should I call a professional? <Q> Those are called "nail pops". <S> They are the fasteners (nails mostly, but occasionally screws) that have been pushed through the drywall surface due to either forces exerted on the drywall panel or movement from the framing piece they attached too. <S> To repair gently hammer (the nail) or turn (the screw) <S> the wayward fastener so that it is under the drywall surface. <S> It would be wise to install additional screws above and below (by 2-3 inches) <S> any nail that has become loose. <A> When drywall is nailed to ceilings of homes that are constructed with truss framed roofs, the drywall should never be nailed to the trusses with in the first 2' of an interior wall. <S> The roof trusses bear all of its weight on the outside walls and spans over interior partitions, never really relying on the interior walls for support. <S> When the roof sustains a load from snow or even perhaps heating and cooling. <S> What this does, over the interior partitions, the bottom cord of the truss flexes, or it is supposed to flex up and down over the interior walls. <S> To allow the drywall to compensate for this was to NOT nail the drywall close to the interior walls. <S> This is what it seems is going on with you. <S> The other nail pop, sometimes it just goes that way, that nail or nails, whether it it is in a wall or in the ceiling near the exterior wall, reset it and set another nail or screw beside it that in known to be in good wood so that the lap of the head of the second fastener laps over the original to insure it holds it in place. <S> The other nails that are located near the interior walls that are with in 2' of the wall, remove them and spackle the holes. <A> I replaced drywall in my entire house and these do look like nail pops. <S> They are caused by inappropriate installation of the drywall. <S> It is not clear what the line in the picture is, could be a corner or could be a joint between two sheets of drywall that hasn't been done correctly. <S> The good news is that you can fix this yourself. <S> Cut a circle around these pops and remove any loose drywall, it often cracks when the screw is over-tightened, you want to remove any cracked/loose parts. <S> Put additional screws 1-2 inches away from the hole, the screw needs to go bellow the surface of the drywall but not so deep to tear the paper or crack the sheet. <S> They sell drywall drill bits that will do the right depth for you: <S> Buy drywall mix/plasterer, (there is dry - you mix with water yourself, and premixed) <S> I suggest premixed all purpose to keep it simple. <S> Buy a putty knife: And fill up small holes, 1x1in. <S> For bigger holes get paper tape: <S> Let this dry. <S> If it is not smooth enough - sand it. <S> Sanding creates a lot of dust, use caution. <S> Prime/paint. <S> Drywall at my place requires screws every 30cm (12in) around the perimeter, through the center along the length, into joist/stud as well as glue. <S> Do not screw the tip of a corner as it will snap. <S> I've seen new builds were builders used screw only every 30in, saves time and money, but customers later complain about pops. <S> If you are not lucky, the sheet can fall off as well - I pulled one sheet on my wall and the whole thing came off - not enough screws.
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If it was nailed close to the walls the drywall nails would pull through or pull out of the framing of the truss. Unless you notice multiple nail pops it shouldn't be a problem. Cut away any broken and jagged paper and spackle as needed.
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How to maintain a Saniflo waste water macerator pump? A few years back, I installed a Saniflo pump to service a basement toilet + shower. Putting it in was a lot of fun, but I've always been worried about having it break. So every once in a while I try to descale the inside. But what product to use? In some countries, you can buy a branded product to clean these units. It's not sold in New Zealand where I live. When I asked the local rep, he said they've had good results with hydrochloric acid (well diluted). I've done this a few times, then noticed on a brochure that hydrochloric acid is the one thing they recommend you don't use as it can eat into the seals. Would anyone happen to know what's in the official product, or be able to recommend a product that's an effective descaler but won't damage the seals (if that even exists)? <Q> White Vinegar, as in regular household, kitchen variety. <S> Vinegar will do the job without harming rubber seals. <S> It will easily descale most lime build ups. <S> You should likely mix with plain water in a 25x75 mix, depending on how much you intend to use. <S> For mine, I use just enough total mix to completely cover the base of the pump base. <S> up above the grinding blade, so, roughly 2 gallons total mixture with 1/2 gal US or 1.5 liters metric of vinegar with 3 times more of water.... <S> so 1/2gal vinegar, 1.5 gallons of water, is enough for the fluid level to be above the actual grinding blade in my particular pump. <S> I let that stand for at least an hour, then flush the whole system with clear water. <A> This would depend on how hard your water truly is, ie, how quickly you get a build up of scale. <S> For the saniflo, since what you should be most worried about it blockage, and NOT looks, Ie you are worried about the interior not the exterior as it is never viewed, then you would likely only need to remove the scale once per year, possibly even less than that. <S> In my case, I have very hard water, I get enough scale in 2 years to block the fill valves in a toilet etc, so I flush them with the vinegar every fall/early winter. <S> Before first freeze, so that I don't have additional icing issues. <S> I have waited a little over 3 years once, and that proved to be too long to wait... <S> so, once per year is what I keep up with now, and just do it when I start the normal fall clean up, <S> like after I finish clearing all the leaves out of the gutter systems, then I go and flush the entire system with vinegar... <S> typically I go through about 2 gallons of vinegar with the various toilets and pumps that I have to clean up. <S> Good luck with yours. <A> Found it at Home Depot. <S> I followed the instructions on the bottle, probably used a little more than recommended, I used about 3 gallons of hot water to flush it first, dumped in some Zep, and poured in maybe another gallon of hot water and let it sit 6 hours then flushed with 3 gallons of hot water, repeat 3 times. <S> My 10+ year old sani-flo no longer smells musty! <S> Yay! <A> I'm a Saniflo repair specialist in the UK, don't use vinegar or other concoctions like Coca-Cola etc to clean out a Saniflo macerator as it does not work. <S> Saniflo's that are not descaled will eventually start misbehaving. <S> Saniflo Descaler is a phosphoric acid based descaler, there are other alternatives out there like Prokleen which is available in the UK, see link below for more info on how to descale your Saniflo. http://city-handyman.co.uk/saniflo-descaler-how-to-clean-a-saniflo-macerator-where-to-buy-saniflo-descaler/
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The advantage to vinegar is that while it is acidic, it is not enough to kill off the useful bacteria in the entire waste system nor is it so strong as to damage plastic or rubber seals. Just thought I'd throw my answer in here for others searching, I found a post somewhere advising Zep Drain Care Buildup Remover, an enzyme cleaner.
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How to prevent half wall (drywall, steel studs) from wobbling I want to make a half wall beside a staircase (on the edge of the upper floor). One end will be attached to a concrete column, but the other will be (so far) unsuported. Something like the picture below: What is the best way to ensure that It stays put and strong? If nothing else I will make a square tubing post (100x100mm, 1.5mm thick) from floor to ceiling and attach the drywall to it. Any other ideas? EDIT: No wood studs in Brazil, actually it is very hard to get good construction lumber around (most aren't dry, and pressure treated is rare and expensive as hell). <Q> Residential steel studs aren't rigid on their own. <S> They get rigidity from the surfaces they are connected to along with the drywall that is attached. <S> For a wall like that, I'd want to treat it like a newel post on the end and have it be a 4x4 blocked and bolted to the joist below it for rigidity. <S> Otherwise, your idea to just make it a full column would work too. <A> I agree with the other suggestions to use wood for this case. <S> However, if you're dead set on using metal studs, look up "box beams". <S> Box beams are very sturdy even with residential grade steel studs and you make them by using two pieces of steel stud (with the hollow portions of the framing members facing inward toward each other) and then two pieces of track (one on the top and another piece of track on the bottom). <S> That said, I'm not sure if they're to code for this application. <S> Here is a rough drawing as viewed from looking at one end of the beam: <S> The red pieces are the studs and the blue lines are the track <S> Another design to throw in, though I don't think they would be sturdy enough for a half wall <S> are I-beams made using steel studs <S> : I-beams look like a traditional I-beam and are made by screwing two studs back to back. <S> It adds significant rigidity, though not as much as a box beam. <A> I'd go with wood studs for a wall like that, and use a doubled up stud at the end. <S> Use good sized lag bolts to attach the sole plate through the subfloor, and into the joist below. <S> If the wall is too long, you could add blocking and/or cross bracing to add rigidity. <S> The wallboard will also add a surprising amount of rigidity.
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Though the I-beams nearly doubled the cost of framing the stud walls my basement, I liked having the added rigidity for hanging things:
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why using self-tapping screws? I am just wondering what the advantage of self-tapping screws would be as compared to normal screws. Does it fasten more strongly? I know, with most self-tapping screws, pre-drilling can be skipped. Is this the only advantage? Or, is there any other advantage? <Q> If you're pre-drilling anyways, then there's no real benefit. <A> Well, I would say the biggest advantage is not to have to tap the hole, since they're self-tapping, that's the whole point. <S> To tap the hole you need to drill it first, so 2 advantages, but tapping takes longer than drilling, so that's the biggest advantage in my opinion. <A> There are both thread forming (machine screw) and self taping (sheet metal) screws that some call both types self tappers. <S> As far as holding strength with the same size and thread pitch there is no difference in holding power for the same number of threads in contact, self tapped are faster and <S> the correct drill point size built in so the "pilot" size is always correct is an advantage to predrilling when the drill bit is dull or gets broken.
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Not having to pre-drill is the benefit, and that's actually a huge benefit in terms of time and labor.
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What size conduit should I use for Coaxial and Ethernet? I'm looking at feeding both a coaxial and an Ethernet(probable cat6A) cable too multiple locations in my house shortly.I was wondering what size conduit should I use? <Q> After a quick google search, I've estimated the dimensions of the cables as follows: <S> RG6 - diameter = 0.33 <S> ", area = 0.08552 sq.in. <S> CAT6 = <S> diameter = 0.25 <S> ", area = 0.0491 sq. <S> in. <S> So to run just these two cables, you're going to need 3/4" conduit (based on NEC Chapter 9 Tables). <S> Three of each (6 total cables), you'll need 1 1/4" conduit. <A> Pulling at maximum conduit fill (40% other than for short sections) is a huge pain. <S> As such, I prefer to go larger unless there is a space constraint. <S> That also leaves you more open for future options ( <S> the joy of conduit for communications cables is that you can easily have the right communications cables when what the right ones are changes.) <A> You'll probably want to use 1" ENT in 2x6 framing, 3/4" ENT in 2x4 framing. <S> The 1" is preferable because you can get an HDMI cable through it if you ever need to, but you shouldn't drill holes that big through 2x4 framing.
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If you run two of each cable (4 total cables), you'll need 1" conduit.
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High Water Bill - No Leaks Four months ago I moved into a house built about 10-11 years ago. With our first water bill, billed semi-monthly, we were billed a usage of 3750 gallons. Our next bill showed a usage of 9100 gallons. I raised the flag to the utility and they sent a tech. No one was home and the tech said there was no leak indicated at the meter. It is just my wife and I. We've evaluated the "usual suspects." We haven't had overnight guests. We don't water the lawn. And we don't wash our cars at the house. I then thought I should turn off the supply to the only external bib, just in case I had been the victim of theft. A few days later I realized I didn't release the trapped water. I went out back, turned on the water and: Nothing. No trapped water, bone dry. Now, I live in the Mid-Atlantic and it hasn't been unseasonably hot but it hasn't been particularly cold either. So I wonder if the water had dripped out/evaporated OR someone had attempted to turn on the water with the source turned off. My question, then is two-fold:1) What other reasons could be causing that increase in water usage?2) Could the trapped water have escaped without turning it on? Thanks in advance. <Q> Make sure all the bills you look at are based on actual meter reads. <S> Some utilities will estimate some of the bills (say, every other bill) based on historical data to avoid having to come check the meter as often. <S> Since you haven't been in the house very long it's possible they're using historical data from last year <S> (maybe the previous residents filled up a pool in the summer, or watered the lawn?). <S> If that's not the issue, see if you have access to the water meter. <S> If so, write down the reading before you leave the house for the day and then again when you come home. <S> Also note that a "typical" (whatever that means) person uses about 50 gallons/day, which for you should work out to about 6000 gallons per billing cycle. <S> So these numbers don't seem way out of line. <S> EDIT: <S> reading over these numbers now I can't help but notice that over your two billing cycles you are averaging 50 gallons/person/day, which is exactly the EPA's "typical" number. <S> I wonder if your first bill was estimated and the second one was high to make up for it. <S> Also, I think the faucet thing is a red herring. <S> If the faucet was leaking thousands of gallons you would notice it. <S> And there's no way for someone to steal a meaningful amount of water from an outdoor spigot. <A> If you're on WSSC water, they jacked up the rates a month or two ago. <S> They also charge more per gallon of you use more water (which is discriminatory towards families - search for the change.org peteition) <S> You should always have your hose bib turned off if you're not using it. <S> Hoses are notorious for leaking, and if one explodes while you're away, you'll consume a ton more water. <S> You might have a toilet valve that is overfilling and running into the overfill valve. <S> Pull the cover off and make sure it's not completely up to the top. <S> A leaky sink wouldn't consume that much. <S> You might have also missed a billing / meter read cycle somewhere along the way and one bill might be an estimate. <S> You could have a leaky pipe, but odds are you'd see its effects. <S> You might have a neighbor watering their lawn or filling their swimming pool, or might have simply left something on leaking at (... <S> 6000gal/60days=100gal/day=5gal/hr ) <S> 2 <S> oz/min <S> 9000 gal is only 75 gal/day per person.. <S> Your morning shower is probably 30-40 gallons, toilet flushes on 1-3gal ea, dishwasher, washing machine, not unreasonable. <A> The usual suspects are water softeners and toilets - things that can leak without a leak being apparent, as the leaked water goes down the drain. <S> Of course it's always possible that someone has been hooking up a hose and stealing water when you are not home, but it's far down the list, most of the time. <S> If you leave the hose bibb turned off from inside then that would stop, presumably.
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It's also possible that your hose bibb has been leaking.
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Is it okay for one curtain hanging bracket to be screwed into drywall with no anchors? I'm trying to hang curtains from near the ceiling. I have 5 brackets. 4 of them have successfully been screwed into wood, at least with the top screw (the bottom screw was as a wall anchor into drywall, because the wood runs near the top of the wall). However, in one location (2nd from the left-most), there is metal instead of wood covering the part I want to screw into. It is very likely the metal is from our air shaft for air conditioning so I probably shouldn't mess with it. In the end I opted just to use two very short screws which only reach into the drywall. Of course an anchor is also impossible because the metal is just beyond the drywall. So on the 2nd-left bracket the only thing supporting it are screws into drywall. I was hoping maybe the 1st and 3rd brackets will cover for it. But I'm not so sure about this, because the curtains will be really heavy (14 feet across, with heavy end finials and 4 curtains total). The distance between 1st and 3rd brackets is about 7 feet and spans two curtains total. Will it help to drip superglue onto the 2nd bracket? How about a hackneyed improvised apparatus where I find a super long metal strip that extends to either side wood studs, and screw that in, in such a way that it presses the top of the bracket into the wall? Is there such thing as a "shallow wall anchor" that is only 3/8-inch long and doesn't have to poke beyond the dry-wall? Because immediately beyond the dry-wall is metal. Do I even need this 2nd bracket? (There's 7 feet and two curtains between brackets 1 and 3) <Q> Sounds like trouble to me. <S> Superglue won't do you any good, as it's only as strong as what it's gluing to ( <S> and I suspect here it would be far less strong). <S> Some alternatives: <S> Cut away a square of drywall and replace it with the same thickness plywood, glued to whatever is behind (e.g. that metal). <S> Then apply a thin coat of plaster, paint, and then screw into it <S> Find out just what that metal is, and consider screwing into it <S> If the curtains will generally hide that bracket, consider gluing a thin piece of plywood to the surface of the drywall and screwing into that <A> You might be overthinking this. <S> How heavy are your curtains (plus all the associated hardware)? <S> Attaching the whole thing to studs in just two places might be enough. <S> And it's not clear from your description how the curtain hardware is designed. <S> If the weight is spread among 5 brackets, then having 1 weak bracket shouldn't be a big deal. <S> Here's a simple idea: get a 3/4" wooden board, attach it above the window with screws through the drywall and into studs. <S> Fill the screw holes, and paint it to match the wall (or <S> however you like). <S> Then screw your curtains anywhere onto the board. <S> If you want it to look fancy, rout the edges of the board. <A> Daniel has some good suggestions. <S> If you are sure that you have 3/8 inch space before you hit the duct you might consider securing the bracket with a toggle bolt. <S> For example, a 3/8 x 4" toggle bolt . <S> If you cut the screw just short of hitting the duct it will secure the bracket. <S> I guess you can't avoid moving the bracket left or right to miss the duct? <A> Before anything else, do you have even 1/2" or 1" of wiggle room, or does this bracket have to go in that exact spot? <S> If so, you might want to probe just to the left and right of the spot you hit and see if you still hit metal. <S> You might be right at the edge of the obstruction, you might even have just hit a nail or screw. <S> I have uncanny luck with this, it's Great. <S> The plastic auger type <S> drywall anchors can easily be trimmed to just the thickness of the drywall (typically 5/8"). <S> They ought to have most of their full strength - they don't depend on expansion for their strength. <S> They come in two sizes, the larger ones should be strong enough. <S> Just trim them to length and carefully screw them into the existing holes made with the screws. <S> Buy a pair of 3/4" inch long screws, the right size (diameter) for the anchor. <S> Now these anchors are cheap, strong, and easy to work with, but one thing they are not is forgiving. <S> If you don't get it right the first time, they generally make a mess if you have to take them out, the screw doesn't want to let go of the plastic and the drywall gets mangled. <S> If that happens you're going to have to go back to the drawing board for a plan B. <A> Odds are pretty good that if you test it with a magnet you will find out that it is a ferrous metal and the magnet will stick. <S> If that is the case you could possibly use an inverted cup magnet to secure the bracket. <S> You would use a small bolt and nut to attach the magnet to the bracket so that the face of the magnet (the pulling side) faces the wall. <S> Then trace the magnet shape onto the wall in the appropriate place. <S> Use an exacto knife or a forestner bit (if you have one) to remove the dry wall down to the metal plate. <S> Then just clean up the hole and attach the magnet to the metal. <S> Depending on the thickness of the drywall you may need to add a few washers between the magnet and the bracket. <S> You can find these magnets rated for 90+ lbs of direct pulling force, but I doubt you would even need that much.
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You may be able to use the metal to your advantage.
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Must Electrical Adapters Be Inside Gang Boxes? I'm replacing a wall sconce light with a bluetooth speaker so I have AC wires coming into the spot where the speaker will be but I'll be removing the circular gang box that the sconce light connected to. The bluetooth speaker has a DC adapter that I can wire to the existing AC wires. But do I need to add a new covered gang box for the adapter to live in or can it just dangle behind the wall? <Q> In general, AC 120 and 240 wiring may not be terminated in a wall except in approved boxes or fixtures. <S> And those boxes must be accessible. <S> That means you need to attach the DC adapter (basically a transformer) to an approved electrical box. <S> This is usually done with the transformer bolted to the outside of the box with the wires from AC side of the box feeding inside, where they are attached to the line in. <S> And this box must remain accessible, with a cover that can be removed to get to the wiring. <S> If this is not aesthetically pleasing, you may be able to locate the DC adapter somewhere else (in a basement or an attic) with an appropriate box, and then run low voltage wires to your speaker. <S> If this is a plug in adapter, you need to attach it to a conventional outlet in a conventional box, not buried in a wall. <A> Install a recessed outlet and plug the adapter in it. <A> The connections must be contained in an enclosure, they cannot dangle inside the wall.
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You cannot splice wires in a wall without boxes (except for certain approved in-line splices), and you cannot bury a box in a wall without an accessible cover.
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