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https://hackaday.com/2013/12/20/fubarino-contest-a-dutch-word-clock/ | Fubarino Contest: A Dutch Word Clock | Brian Benchoff | [
"contests"
] | [
"contest",
"fubarino-contest",
"word clock"
] | [Gerben] started on his adventure into the world of electronics about a year ago. His first big project is
this magnificent word clock
. It’s Dutch, if you’re wondering.
As a web developer, the first thing [Gerben] did was build
a web-based mockup of this clock.
After that, he went crazy with power tools crafting the wooden frame. Perhaps too crazy, as he forgot the space for the electronics. This oversight was solved by making his own PCBs, first using peroxide and vinegar, then giving up and moving to peroxide and HCl.
The easter egg for this word clock is a scrolling URL when the time is 13:37. A clever egg that is
really completely original.
From the looks of the video, the fit and finish of this word clock is beyond anything we’ve seen before. The entire front of the clock is glass, with capacitive touch buttons down by the four-LED ‘minute’ display.
Video below,
Pics over here
, and all the code and board files
are here
.
This is an entry in
the Fubarino Contest
for a chance at one of the 20
Fubarino SD boards
which Microchip has put up as prizes! | 4 | 3 | [
{
"comment_id": "1140264",
"author": "six677",
"timestamp": "2013-12-20T14:12:07",
"content": "that guy has a fubarino in the mail then",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1140268",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2013-12-20T14:16:03"... | 1,760,376,362.932084 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/20/moody-useless-machine/ | Moody Useless Machine | Kevin Darrah | [
"Arduino Hacks"
] | [
"pointless",
"useless",
"useless machine"
] | If you ever get bored of trolling the internet seeking inspiration for your next big project, try a YouTube search of “useless machine”. After a few hours of watching these pointless, yet hilarious creations, we’re sure you’re going to want to build one. Luckily for us, [Arvid] documented the design of his
moody useless machine
to get you started.
Why is [Arvid’s] machine moody? Well, to fully appreciate the emotional sensitivity of a useless machine, you first need to understand what it is they
do
don’t do. A one sentence explanation is all that is needed here; you flip a switch and the machine flips the switch back… that’s it. [Arvid] implemented a two servo system with a stand-alone Arduino, which allowed him to give his machine a “personality”. Sometimes the switch is thrown back quickly without argument, other times the machine throws a fussy tantrum.
Although the machine is useless, the electronics inside are anything but. To keep everything clean and innocuous looking, the machine is powered by batteries, so [Arvid] places the Arduino into a ‘sleep’ mode until the switch is toggled. The switch is configured as an interrupt on the Arduino, which when toggled, wakes the Arduino. Once the Arduino is awake, it enables power to the servos via a power MOSFET, then everything’s ready to go; the machine makes its response and goes back to ‘sleep’. This was a great project, but believe it or not, things can get more useless, like with this
advanced useless machine.
[via
Hacked Gadgets
] | 32 | 23 | [
{
"comment_id": "1140040",
"author": "ausserirdischegesund",
"timestamp": "2013-12-20T09:06:42",
"content": "Wow, that wooden case is really pretty!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1140085",
"author": "Orion",
"timestamp": "201... | 1,760,376,363.448466 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/19/addressable-rgb-led-coffee-table/ | Addressable RGB LED Coffee Table | James Hobson | [
"LED Hacks"
] | [
"RGB LED table",
"sector67"
] | [Alexander] has just put the finishing touches on his
Addressable RGB LED Coffee Table
and it looks amazing!
Making use of his local hackerspace, Sector67 in Madison, Wisconsin, he learned how to use woodworking equipment to build the table out of nice curly maple wood sheet.
Next up he purchased two 4’x8′ pieces of 2.8mm bamboo plywood — even had to rent a U-Haul just to get it back to the space. Talk about dedication to a project! Having never used a laser cutter before either, [Alexander] was quickly fed up with the crappy laser interface software, so instead, he hand wrote the shapes as SVGs in notepad and then converted them to DXFs. That sounds like a rather slow way to do it, but he thinks it ended up being quicker since it’s all straight lines. Two hours of laser time later, and he had a series of slotted strips to create the grid for the LEDs.
To really light up his project, he’s using nice big 12mm RGB LEDs that he’s ordered off of eBay — they came in four strands of 50 which made it super easy to wire. A beefy 5V 12A PSU provides the juice, and an Arduino takes care of the addressing. He’s even hidden the main power cord through one of the legs!
It’s a gorgeous build, and an impressive project for being a first-timer on most of the equipment used. See for yourself in the short video after the break. | 13 | 10 | [
{
"comment_id": "1139992",
"author": "rj",
"timestamp": "2013-12-20T07:20:45",
"content": "Nice build! I’d love a few silly games for it, though. (Pong or super pixel bros &c)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1140060",
"author": "oliv49... | 1,760,376,363.253108 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/19/touching-conversations-email-snippets-scroll-by-on-electro-embroidery-piece/ | Touching Conversations: Email Snippets Scroll By On Electro-Embroidery Piece | Kristina Panos | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"LED Hacks",
"Wearable Hacks"
] | [
"arduino",
"embroidery",
"laser",
"led",
"microcontroller",
"wearable"
] | [Wei Chieh Shih] really moves the needle when it comes to wearable technology. His textile design project entitled
I Am Very Happy I Hope You Are Too
is a striking marriage of masterful hand embroidery, delicate circuitry, and careful programming.
[Wei] is using an Arduino micro to drive a matrix of surface-mount LEDs in the Hello, World video, which is a ramp-up to the scrolling text version that’s
in progress
now finished. That full version is part of his residency project at
Arquetopia
in Oaxaca, Mexico and displays snippets of emails from his past relationships. It’s huge, with multiple matrices as large as 8×25 pixels!
No build notes could be found for this or any of [Wei]’s similar projects, like this
awesomely dangerous 200 laser diode jacket
or this
eerily beautiful light installation
on Taiwan’s north beach. Based on the pictures, our speculation is that he is using ordinary 6-strand embroidery floss to make
stem
or
half cross-stitches
on all the paths. He then runs very thin, flexible conductor underneath the channel of stitches and solders the wires to the component pads.
If [Wei] wants another way to wear his heart on his sleeve, he could investigate
these dynamic LED clothing hacks
.
Update: [Wei] has completed this project, and has more information available at
his Behance site
.
[via
adafruit
] | 6 | 2 | [
{
"comment_id": "1139890",
"author": "Galane",
"timestamp": "2013-12-20T04:32:07",
"content": "The laser jackets, finally, when a reviewer writes of a “blinding performance” it can literally be true. ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1139916... | 1,760,376,363.554394 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/19/a-balancing-walking-cube-named-cubli/ | A Balancing, Walking Cube Named Cubli | James Hobson | [
"Robots Hacks"
] | [
"cubli",
"robotic cube"
] | Meet Cubli! Cubli is a 15 x 15 x 15cm
robotic cube
that can roll around and balance on its corners using a series of gyroscopes.
The project has been going strong since February 2011 at the Institute for Dynamic Systems and Control in Zurich, where it is starting to get quite impressive. We first shared
Cubli
earlier this year, when it was just a wee 2-dimensional and corded 3-dimensional prototype.
Since then, it has become a fully enclosed wireless cube capable of jumping up on its end, balancing, and controlled falling — it can walk and roll! To do this, it has three large reaction wheels on each axis which can impart their angular velocity on the entire cube when the braked, allowing it to move in any direction.
According to the video after the break, the team is just building the cube “because they can”, however other researchers are interested in the technologies applications in self-assembling robots, and even planetary exploration. | 44 | 18 | [
{
"comment_id": "1139702",
"author": "supershwa",
"timestamp": "2013-12-20T00:08:51",
"content": "We are borg. Resistance is futile.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1139707",
"author": "Brad",
"timestamp": "2013-12-20T00:15:54",
"co... | 1,760,376,363.188794 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/19/staff-update-and-philanthropy/ | Staff Update And Philanthropy | Mike Szczys | [
"News"
] | [
"donations",
"staff",
"wikipedia"
] | It is my pleasure to welcome two new members of the Hackaday team. [Kevin Darrah] and [Kristina Panos] both have electronics backgrounds, and following in the tradition of the entire team they are long-time readers of Hackaday. Both are already hard at work. You can learn a bit more about them on
the Staff Page
.
While I have your attention the writers, editors and I would like to thank our parent company. We frequently refer to them as the “Evil Overlords” (actually,
they started it!
) but it’s turning out to be a really great relationship. I asked them to
make a donation to Wikipedia
in Hackaday’s name and they were happy to do so. Not only do we often link to Wikipedia in our articles, our writers use it constantly when researching for posts. Thanks SupplyFrame! | 16 | 5 | [
{
"comment_id": "1139606",
"author": "pik",
"timestamp": "2013-12-19T21:42:05",
"content": "Oh wow. I totally forgot about The Overlords. Will we ever get site integration to more easily source parts for whatever project we are looking at? Seems like a win-win.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": ... | 1,760,376,363.113239 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/19/fail-of-the-week-baby-monitor-hack-ends-in-facepalm/ | Fail Of The Week: Baby Monitor Hack Ends In Facepalm | Mike Szczys | [
"Hackaday Columns",
"Repair Hacks"
] | [
"baby monitor",
"usb-b"
] | Editor’s Note
: This was the last Fail of the Week tip we had stored up. If you want to see the series continue on a weekly basis we need help finding more documented fails! Please look back through your projects and document the ones that didn’t go quite right. We also encourage you to send in links to other fails you’ve found. Just
drop the links in our tips line
. Thanks!
Now on with business. This is a baby monitor which [Eric] cleverly repaired, only to realize that
he more than likely did it the hard way
. The monitor was broken and went unused until his son figured out how to climb out of the crib, so he figured it was time to start monitoring again. Pulling the unit from the brink of the parts bin he set to work repairing the broken power connector.
Further inspection of the power adapter showed that it was spec’d to put out 5V at 1A. This falls in line with USB power, so he clipped the end off of a USB-B cable and used a hunk of proto-board to inject the 5V lines into the device. It was when it came time to reassemble the case that he flipped the board over and discovered an existing USB-B port. He could have just cut a hole in the case to get at the connector and plugged the un-altered cable in directly. Oh well… we’re sure it was fun figuring out his own custom solution!
Fail of the Week is a Hackaday column which runs every Wednesday. Help keep the fun rolling by writing about your past failures and
sending us a link to the story
— or sending in links to fail write ups you find in your Internet travels. | 21 | 11 | [
{
"comment_id": "1139370",
"author": "Kevin",
"timestamp": "2013-12-19T18:14:06",
"content": "This is one of those DOH! Moments that make me smile. My only question with this is, how do you only have one Mini-USB cord laying around?!?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{... | 1,760,376,363.509713 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/19/a-weird-kind-of-printer/ | A Weird Kind Of Printer | James Hobson | [
"Misc Hacks"
] | [
"printer hack",
"silkscreening printer"
] | [Benjamin] is just putting the finishing touches on his home-made, paper-stabbing,
needle-printer!?
From a distance, it looks like the bare bones of a regular inkjet printer, but it’s not. Instead of an ink-head it features a needle — It’s kind of like a dot-matrix (hole-matrix?) printer. He’s using it for silk-screening masks, which we have to admit, must be pretty handy — it certainly makes soldering SMT’s less scary! It could also be used for embossing or even braille printing.
The frame of the printer is laser cut out of clear plastic, and two Nema 17 steppers drive the X & Y axes. A simple solenoid actuator provides the needle-stabby action. He’s controlling the whole thing using an Arduino, and sending the data to it using a call-and-response protocol to avoid any data losses. It was built for just shy of $200, which was his original goal for the project.
Check it out after the break! | 23 | 11 | [
{
"comment_id": "1139203",
"author": "gd",
"timestamp": "2013-12-19T15:10:02",
"content": "That would produce nice candle shield too",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1139233",
"author": "cHRIS",
"timestamp": "2013-12-19T15:48:26",
"co... | 1,760,376,362.995999 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/19/from-ct-scans-to-3d-prints/ | From CT Scans To 3D Prints | James Hobson | [
"3d Printer hacks"
] | [
"CT Scan",
"DICOM",
"DiVIDE"
] | [the_digital_dentist] had a CT Scan done back in 2007 for treatment using orthodontics. Some how, he managed to get a copy of the CT Scan data from the lab, and has been
playing around with it lately
.
Since he has a 3D printer, the obvious end goal was to print his face using some of the data extracted from the CT Scan. This required a lot of manipulation to get it to the finished model you see above. He used an open source software called
DeVIDE
to process the data and export the STL. Not much information on this is given on his site, but in our research we managed to find another video documenting the process in DeVIDE on
extracting the STL model from DICOM CT scan data.
Unfortunately, the STL is far from being ready to print after being extracted; there is a lot of extraneous data that needs to be cleaned up. He used mesh editing software to help blow away the unnecessary details. We don’t know for sure what software [the_digital_dentist] used, but
MeshLab
is a good one.
After that, it was just a matter of printing the STL file. But the really cool thing about using data from CT scans is the amount of detail it captures… Stick around after the break to see an animated GIF demonstrating this.
Anyone want to print a copy of their own skull? It’d look great with a plating of Adamantanium… | 23 | 14 | [
{
"comment_id": "1139055",
"author": "Gray",
"timestamp": "2013-12-19T12:06:33",
"content": "A case for 3D metal printing if I ever saw one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1139127",
"author": "Blue Footed Booby",
"timestamp": ... | 1,760,376,363.060017 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/19/fubarino-contest-led-matrix-game-console/ | Fubarino Contest: LED Matrix Game Console | Brian Benchoff | [
"contests"
] | [
"Fubarino",
"fubarino-contest",
"Konami code",
"MAX3219"
] | A good amount of entries for our
Fubarino Contest
are finally starting to roll into the tip line. Good thing, too, as
this is the last day for submissions. What are you waiting for?
we just passed the entry deadline.
The latest one comes from [Vojtak], who created
an awesome looking minimalist game console
with nothing but the power of sheer will, impressive determination, and an Arduino. The 8×8 red LED matrix is driven by the wonderful Max7219 display driver, and a 3-axis accelerometer and battery charging circuit fills out the build. On the software side, [Vojtak] has written
a number of apps
for his console including Snake, a maze game, and a lot of stuff that uses the built-in accelerometer.
As an entry to our Fubarino Contest, [Vojtak] needed to implement our URL as an easter egg. By entering the Konami code and going into the console’s image viewer, you have four additional slots to save your artwork which are initially filled with something resembling the title pic for this post. The most impressive easter egg for this submission comes from the maze game. At first glance, nothing looks weird, but after scrolling around the huge maze you can see “HACKADAY.COM” written with pixels. Remind us to do this when we build a hedge maze.
This is an entry in
the Fubarino Contest
for a chance at one of the 20
Fubarino SD boards
which Microchip has put up as prizes! | 3 | 2 | [
{
"comment_id": "1139034",
"author": "Ralph",
"timestamp": "2013-12-19T11:41:31",
"content": "I think the reference to the max3219 is a typo and should be the 7219.http://www.maximintegrated.com/datasheet/index.mvp/id/1339/t/alSearching maxim’s site for a 3219 part reveals nothing.",
"parent_id"... | 1,760,376,362.883925 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/19/thermochromic-imaging/ | Thermochromic Imaging | James Hobson | [
"Misc Hacks"
] | [
"Mood ring",
"thermochromic",
"Thermochromism"
] | [clarii_d] is currently finishing up her thesis project on thermochromic pigment to silkscreen receipts. The idea behind it is that when a receipt is touched,
part of it fades revealing a hidden message.
As you can guess,
thermochromic paint
is a type of substance that changes color when introduced to heat — or in this case, fades altogether. Remember when mood rings were all the rage? Same thing.
In her project she is using silkscreening to transfer text onto the back of receipt paper using regular ink. Once dried, she silkscreens an image over top of the message, this time using a thermochromic pigment. The result is a slightly obscured image, but after holding it for a few seconds, it disappears and only the text remains.
Color-changing anything is a bit gimmicky, but we think [clarii_d’s] project is a pretty cool and unique application of it. A few years ago we shared another interesting project utilizing thermochromism;
a color-changing clock face
that utilized the heat given off by resistors! | 10 | 5 | [
{
"comment_id": "1138952",
"author": "squeeks",
"timestamp": "2013-12-19T09:47:31",
"content": "I don’t see any reference to receipt paper in the instructables, it only mentioned to try out your positioning on newsprint before you use the good paper.Is there a link to the thesis?A lot of till receip... | 1,760,376,363.613412 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/18/3d-printering-making-a-thing-with-autocad/ | 3D Printering: Making A Thing With AutoCAD, Part I | Brian Benchoff | [
"3d Printer hacks",
"Hackaday Columns"
] | [
"2D design",
"3D Printering",
"AutoCAD",
"cad"
] | Octopodes and useless plastic baubles begone. It’s time yet again for another installment of learning how to make a thing with 3D design tools. This week, we’re making something with
AutoCAD
. It’s an amazing piece of software that costs $4000
per seat.
Hilariously expensive for any home tinkerer, but if you go to a university with an engineering program, there’s a computer lab with machines running AutoCAD somewhere on campus.
Last week we took a look at
making something with OpenSCAD
. AutoCAD is much, much different. Where OpenSCAD is sorta, kinda like programming, AutoCAD is just a digital version of t-squares, triangles, straight edges, and people getting uppity when you don’t call their drawing device a ‘lead holder’.
I’ve broken this tutorial down into two parts: right now you’re reading the tutorial on drawing 2D objects in AutoCAD. This weekend I’ll publish the transformation of 2D objects into a 3D printable part. Read on for how to create a 2D object in AutoCAD.
Our Thing
Because demonstrating different way to create a 3D printable object without using the same object each time, we’re going with this drawing again. That drawing is nearly 100 years old, but it’s still a great introduction to drawing and turning a picture into a 3D printable object.
Let’s just dig right in.
We’re going to start by drawing the top perspective of our part.
Start by drawing two circles. From the ‘Home’ tab, click on the Circle drop down menu and select ‘Center, Diameter’. This will allow you to draw a circle by picking a point for the center and entering a number for the diameter. From our nearly 100-year-old drawing of our thing, we simply need to draw a 1 inch diameter circle and a 2 3/8 inch diameter circle with the same center point.
I’ll preface this next part by saying this isn’t the right way to do AutoCAD, or any drafting app. The professional way to do this next step is to create another type of line – preferably a different color, and one that extends to infinity. This is called a construction line, and it’s the proper way to do this sort of thing. Nevertheless, I’m an idiot and this is the
simple
way to do things.
The next step is to create those little bits sticking off the end of the circles on our thing. We’ll start with the one with the weird radii on them.
Draw a line 1 ¼ inch long starting from the center of the circles. Then, draw a line on either side of the bottom of the line 1 3/8 inch long. You’ll end up with something that looks like the pic to the right. Now, just delete that first line coming from the center of the circles, add that 5/16 inch long part on the side, and then draw another line going intersecting with the big circle.
Those corners look a little rough compared to the hundred year old drawing, so let’s round them off. From the Home tab, select ‘Fillet’. AutoCAD then prompts us to select an object and shows the words [Undo Polyline Radius Trim Multiple] in the command bar. Type in Radius, specify 0.125, and click on one line of the hard corner, then the next line. After you click the second time, that 90 degree corner will be replaced with a nice rounded edge. Do the same with the two other radii connecting the flange to the big circle and you’ll start to see the 100-year-old part take shape.
In terms of projecting this part into a 2D drawing, there’s an extra line right now we need to get rid of. It’s between the last two fillets we just drew. You can get rid of that line by clicking on the Trim button in the Home tab. It will ask you to select objects, so click on the last two fillets we just created. Once they’ve both turned into dotted lines, hit enter, click the line you’d like to get rid of, and it’ll disappear.
Finishing off the ‘top’ part of our part, as projected onto a 2D drawing is left as an exercise to the reader.
Now, there’s only one bit missing from our part, and it’s also a great way to demonstrate another tool in AutoCAD. Start by drawing a line – it doesn’t matter how long – from the center of our circles. Using the Rotate command, select this line, specify the center of the circles as a base point, hit enter, and specify a rotation angle of 45 degrees. Now all we have to do is cut a 3/8 inch slot and trim everything up. Type ‘Offset’ into AutoCAD (There’s a button on the Home tab. It looks like an upside-down letter T written in bubble letters), specify the offset distance – in this case a half of 3/8ths, or 0.1875 in decimal, hit enter, and click on the line we just rotated. Click on one side of our rotated line, then on the other side. Delete the center line, trim everything up, and there’s your part. Who would have thought you could actually convey information with an animated .gif?
There’s our top projection
Since we have a drawing of our ‘thing’ when seen from above, all we have to do now is bring everything into a third dimension. This post is already pushing 1000 words, though, and the previous
OpenSCAD
tutorial got a few comments appreciating how short it was.
This weekend I’ll finish off turning this drawing into a 3D printable object. It’s not especially hard, but explaining it will probably take a 1000 words yet again. | 37 | 12 | [
{
"comment_id": "1138851",
"author": "Andrew",
"timestamp": "2013-12-19T06:13:38",
"content": "Why would you suggest to pirate it, when there are free tools available? Seriously, if you want Autocad you should pay for it. If you can’t afford it, or don’t want to spend the money, then do without or... | 1,760,376,363.701533 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/18/fpgas-for-the-pi-and-bone/ | FPGAs For The Pi And ‘Bone | Brian Benchoff | [
"Crowd Funding"
] | [
"beaglebone",
"fpga",
"LOGi",
"raspberry pi"
] | We’ve seen FPGA dev boards out the wazoo—even some following the current trend of putting an FPGA and an ARM processor on a single board. Take one good idea and mix it in with a few million Linux/ARM boards already piling up on workbenches the world over
and you get LOGi
: an FPGA designed to plug into the Raspberry Pi and BeagleBone.
Both the Raspberry Pi and BeagleBone versions of the LOGi feature a Spartan 6 FPGA with 9152 logic cells, 16 DSP Slices, 576KB of RAM, and 96 I/O Pins. There’s also 256 MB of SDRAM and a SATA connector. The Kickstarter has a few demos for this board, namely a machine vision, Bitcoin mining (though don’t expect this board to make return-on-investment with mining), and an autonomous vehicle control demo. The LOGi’s hardware is comparable to the
Papilio Pro
, so potential projects may include generating
NTSC video
, adding a VGA out, and a few retrocomputer emulations via
OpenCores
.
For what this Kickstarter asks for the Pi or ‘Bone version of the LOGi—$89 USD for either—you’ll get a surprisingly capable FPGA dev board that’s a bit cheaper than comparable offerings. Sure, you won’t save any money buying a Pi and a LOGi, but if you have a few Raspberries lying about, you could do much worse for a starter FPGA board.
Thanks [hamster] for sending this one in. | 25 | 10 | [
{
"comment_id": "1138808",
"author": "David Kuder",
"timestamp": "2013-12-19T04:35:41",
"content": "This is the same FPGA present in Bunnie’s NeTV hardware, where its used to decode (but not decrypt) the incoming HDMI signal, encrypt an overlay with the same HDCP key as the incoming video, mix the s... | 1,760,376,363.783086 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/18/fubarino-contest-morse-code-christmas-baubles/ | Fubarino Contest: Morse Code Christmas Baubles | Mike Szczys | [
"contests",
"LED Hacks"
] | [
"fubarino-contest",
"morse code"
] | Fubarino Contest entries are starting to roll in at a faster rate. If you’re working on one you only have a few hours left! Submissions are due before 12:00am
Pacific Time
! This bit of inspiration is a two-fer. Both entries decided to use Morse Code to spell out the Hackaday URL.
First up, [Tariq] is getting into electronic design because his friend’s 8-year-old son [Yago] is really interested in Math and Science. The device he was working on is
a little portable Morse Code message flasher
(don’t miss
part 2
). The idea is that [Yago] can carry it around and pretend it’s a spy device containing a secret message. It might as well be since your average Joe probably wouldn’t notice the irregular flashing and if they did they wouldn’t be able to decode it without some help. The device is built around an ATtiny85. Normally it displays a Christmas greeting for [Yago]. But at the end of the cycle, or at power-up,
it flashes the Hackaday URL at an extreme rate
. Can anyone actually decode this without putting it on a logic analyzer?
The second offering is in the form of
a blinky Christmas tree
. [Jim] built the Arduino-compatible ornament for the holidays. It does a great job of flashing a bunch of different patterns, and it wasn’t too much work for him to make it flash the URL.
This is an entry in
the Fubarino Contest
. Submit your entry before 12/19/13 for a chance at one of the 20
Fubarino SD boards
which Microchip has put up as prizes! | 0 | 0 | [] | 1,760,376,364.45344 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/18/hacking-digital-scales-for-the-disabled/ | Hacking Digital Scales For The Disabled | Marsh | [
"Microcontrollers",
"Tool Hacks"
] | [
"atmega8",
"digital scales",
"disability",
"disabled",
"scale",
"serial"
] | [Jan] works with both physically and mentally disabled individuals, some of whom cannot read, making many of their tasks more difficult. Although [Jan] is not in a position to teach reading or writing skills, he was able to
build an add-on device for the scales
used in repackaging sweets to provide simple feedback that the user can interpret.
The device has three LEDs—red, green, and yellow—to indicate the package does not weigh enough (red), weighs too much (yellow), or lies within an acceptable range (green). The industrial scales at [Jan’s] workplace each have a serial output to connect to a printer, which he used to send data to the device. An ATMega8 controls the lights and an attached LCD, with the usual trimpot to change the display’s contrast and a rotary encoder to adjust the device’s settings. Everything fits snugly into a custom-made frosted acrylic enclosure, laser-cut at a
local hackerspace
.
[Jan] provides a rigorous guide to approaching each step on his Instructables page, along with source code and several pictures. See a video overview below, then enjoy another scale hack:
building one from scratch. | 4 | 2 | [
{
"comment_id": "1138863",
"author": "pik",
"timestamp": "2013-12-19T06:35:07",
"content": "This is an exceptionally good idea. I have worked with scales, gauging equipment, and the like. Even for fully adept people just some simplified feedback as opposed to the traditional method of interpreting ... | 1,760,376,364.21034 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/18/smac-mag-spiders-minimal-analog-control-paintball-gun/ | SMAC Mag: Spider’s Minimal Analog Control Paintball Gun | Marsh | [
"Weapons Hacks"
] | [
"556 timer",
"analog",
"paintball",
"paintball gun"
] | [Spider!]’s contribution to the pantheon of paintball markers
is the SMAC
: a unique revision to one of Airgun Design’s ever-popular
Automags
. We needed our tipster, [Russell] to provide some context on the Automag’s evolution, because the brand has served as a popular hacking platform for nearly 20 years. The most frequent is a “Pneumag” modification, which converts the original, fully-mechanical trigger pull into a version where the trigger actuates a pneumatic cylinder to fire the gun.
According to [Russell], the Pneumag’s trigger must completely release between each shot to properly recharge the firing chamber. Without a full release, the gun can load extra balls into the barrel and lead to gloppy consequences. Electronic controls solve this problem, but [Spider!] favored an analog solution that captured a “less is more” mentality over a pre-fab microcontroller board. He built the circuit around a 556 timer used as a
delayed re-trigger
, but with a few
modifications
.
Swing by [Spider!]’s forum post for additional details, a cluster of pictures and a bill of materials. Microcontroller alternatives?
We’ve got you covered. | 8 | 3 | [
{
"comment_id": "1138534",
"author": "ss",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T21:34:11",
"content": "i like your posts man",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1138622",
"author": "XOIIO",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T23:25:38",
"content": "556 timer?"... | 1,760,376,364.3143 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/18/developed-on-hackaday-first-version-of-the-hardware/ | Developed On Hackaday: First Version Of The Hardware | Mathieu Stephan | [
"Hackaday Columns",
"hardware",
"News"
] | [
"developed on hackaday",
"encryption",
"hardware development",
"mooltipass",
"password",
"smartcard"
] | The Hackaday writers and readers are currently working hand-in-hand on an offline password keeper, the
mooltipass
(click to see the project description).
Next in our Developed on Hackaday series, we present the
first version of our schematics
. There’s already been a lot of discussions going on in our
dedicated Google group
, mainly about the project’s basic functionality. Because our firmware developers wanted to get to work, we decided to send the first version of our hardware into production a few days ago. Before going through the schematics, let’s review the required list of the mooltipass’s core components:
an easily-readable screen
a read-protected smart-card
large flash memory to store the encrypted passwords
an Arduino-compatible microcontroller with USB connectivity
We’ve been drowning in component suggestions from motivated hobbyists, so we figured we’d make the mooltipass v1 as simple as possible and then move from there. Given this device is developed on Hackaday, we also wanted future users to modify it, building completely new projects based around these main components. Keep reading for our schematics…
For the core of the platform, we opted for the
ATmega32U4
from Atmel. It is the same microcontroller used in the Arduino Leonardo, allowing us to use the numerous libraries that have been developed for it. In the final schematics, we’ll add an expansion connector so users may connect additional peripherals (we may switch to a 4 layers PCB at this point). The microcontroller’s USB lines are protected from ESD by the IP4234CZ6 from NXP.
For encrypted passwords storage, we found the cheap 1Mbit
AT45DB011D
FLASH which also has 2/4/16Mbits pin compatible versions. If our beta testers find that 1Mbit is not enough, upgrading the mooltipass would be easy. A few readers may already know it, but when picking a flash memory, special attention should be paid to the minimum amount of data that can be erased in the chip. If the flash doesn’t have an internal buffer (like the one we selected does), the microcontroller must read a complete chunk of data, modify the relevant part and resend the modified chunk to the memory. Given the ATmega32U4 only has 2.5KBytes of RAM, this may have been problematic.
Finding a smart-card that could provide the desired security functions wasn’t the problem, but finding a supplier that could send us relatively low quantities (<1M)
was
. We did, however, find the quite old AT88SC102 from Atmel, a 1024bits read/write protected EEPROM. It can be sourced for less than a dollar and our security assessor didn’t object to this choice. It also uses an odd bus for communications (SPI-like with an open drain data line), which is why we used the N-Mosfet Q2.
A hot-topic in the Google group was the display choice. Although opinions were varied, we agreed on the core constraint that the chosen display should be at least 2.8″ and read easily under bright light. High resolution and RGB wasn’t necessarily required, so as a first try we’ve opted for the OLED display shown in the picture above (image taken from
YouTube
). After several weeks of looking for viable alternative OLED screens without any success, we’re currently considering making another mooltipass version with an IPS LCD. Moreover, the current unusual 3.12″ diagonal means we’ll need to have a custom-made resistive touch panel: the quotes we received for the capacitive ones were too expensive.
These components choices made the voltages electronics fairly simple. The whole solution is powered by the ~5V coming from the USB, and the ~3.3V required by both the flash and the display is provided by the ATmega32U4 internal LDO regulator (~55mA @ 3.0 to 3.6V). The +12V also needed by the display is generated by a $1 regulated charge pump DC-DC converter. If we had to use a conventional step-up, the component count (and cost) would be much higher. Notice that we put a P-MOSFET in series with the latter as the output voltage when the DC-DC is not working is not 0V but VCC (here +5V). We also used another P-MOSFET to switch the power supply going to the smart card.
We used two resistor networks R6&R7 (easier to solder) as voltage dividers to transform our 5V signals to 3.3V. Fortunately, the ATmega32U4 can receive LVTTL signals, so we don’t need level shifters to get the data coming from the 3.3v-powered flash memory.
That wraps up the mooltipass schematics overview. If you have any suggestions, you can contact the team in our
dedicated Google group
. Of course we’d love to hear general comments, please share them below. | 42 | 13 | [
{
"comment_id": "1138433",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T19:27:32",
"content": "Anyone know where to source such an OLED display? I’d like to have one just to toy around with, but can’t turn up any that are this big in the usual places (eBay, parts suppliers).I still have yet to ... | 1,760,376,364.545761 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/18/disrupting-advertisement-agency-workers-with-electric-shocks/ | Disrupting Advertisement Agency Workers With Electric Shocks | Mathieu Stephan | [
"Lifehacks",
"Wearable Hacks"
] | [
"art installation",
"electric shock"
] | We hope this project will make you laugh as much as we did. For 4 hours, some Australian advertising executives
agreed to be subjected to Electric Muscle Stimulation (EMS)
controlled by people from all over the globe watching their reaction over the Internet. The public could disrupt their day with a click of a mouse. The user simply needed to go online, choose a live stream, click the ‘Disrupt’ button and watch as the EMS instantaneously zapped the volunteers. For each ‘disruption’, the company donated $1 to a local community.
The EMS hardware was designed to deliver up to 60V pulses and controlled using the MIDI protocol. The platform is powered by 8 AA batteries and receives zapping commands via UDP. Unfortunately, the resources can’t be found on the project’s webpage, but you can still have a look at the two videos embedded after the break. The total amount donated during this experiment was $5500! | 24 | 9 | [
{
"comment_id": "1138239",
"author": "Ren",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T16:01:27",
"content": "Well, I guess if politicians wouldn’t volunteer, ad execs were a reasonable(?) substitute…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1138282",
"author": ... | 1,760,376,365.247063 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/18/custom-rostock-3d-printer-makes-use-of-ikea-components/ | Custom Rostock 3D Printer Makes Use Of IKEA Components | James Hobson | [
"3d Printer hacks"
] | [
"3d printer",
"IKEA rostock",
"Rostock"
] | After discovering 3D printers, [Turi] had to make one. This past summer he did, and it
looks fantastic.
He chose the
Rostock
design not only because it can print big parts quickly, but also because of its mesmerizing operation. 3D printers are generally fun to watch for the first few minutes, but Rostocks tend to have an even more robotic appeal in the motion of its end effector (robotics lingo for tool head).
The cool part of this build is [Turi’s] choice of enclosure. He had an IKEA cabinet collecting dust in his basement, so he decided to make use of its drawers for the main structure of the Rostock. A bit of wood work and some matte black spray paint later, and he has one great looking enclosure! The rest of the build was pretty standard, making use of 3D printed parts, a RAMPS 1.4 control board mounted on an Arduino Mega, and a computer power supply. He did make his own control arms using carbon fiber arrows, though!
To see it up close and in action, check out the quick video after the break. | 9 | 8 | [
{
"comment_id": "1138101",
"author": "Dave M",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T13:19:29",
"content": "neat! I wonder how accuracy is going up along the Z axis.. I have trouble with that on mine and it’s a standard design.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id":... | 1,760,376,364.413995 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/18/arduino-xmas-tree-shield/ | Arduino Xmas Tree Shield | Kevin Darrah | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"Holiday Hacks",
"LED Hacks"
] | [
"arduino",
"christmas tree",
"led",
"ws2812b"
] | Nothing reminds us that it’s the holiday season more than an LED Christmas Tree submission. This obviously is not the first of its kind, but [Jose] does offer up a new technique
using addressable RGB LEDs.
[Jose] decided to use 20 WS2812B RGB LEDs, which if you haven’t seen before, are RGB LEDs with an integrated controller. Yep, that’s right, just power/ground and 1 data line is all that is needed to control hundreds of RGB LEDs. This LED tree’s design is simple: a custom-etched PCB cut it in to the shape of a Christmas tree. The WS2812B LEDs helped keep everything clean, so the tree lacks any ‘ugly’ ornaments, except for the required bypass cap here and there. For an added bonus, the tree’s LEDs are synchronized to music generated by an Arduino via a piezo buzzer. Why is it a shield? Well, the whole tree plugs in nicely to a standard Arduino interface. This looks like the perfect starter project to familiarize yourself with addressable LEDs, or at least to get you warmed up before
building your own infinity portal. | 12 | 3 | [
{
"comment_id": "1137947",
"author": "John U",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T09:28:56",
"content": "“For an added bonus… music generated by an Arduino via a piezo buzzer”Curious use of “bonus” there.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1138173",
... | 1,760,376,364.264524 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/17/snowden-immortalized-as-bond-villain-in-edge-lit-acrylic-poster/ | Snowden Immortalized As Bond Villain In Edge-Lit Acrylic Poster | Kristina Panos | [
"LED Hacks",
"Misc Hacks"
] | [
"acrylic",
"James Bond",
"led"
] | [Wilywyrm] needed to come up with a final project for art class that commented on a social issue. Healthcare, schmealthcare, he said, and busted out
this movie poster about the NSA spying scandal
instead.
The circuit uses three
extended-duty astable 555 timers
to control the brightness of the 5050 RGB common-anode LED strips that run up the sides of the 24″ x 12″ x 1/4″ acrylic panels. Each of the three panels was laser-engraved at 600 DPI on an
Epilog laser engraver
and features a different aspect of the poster. There’s one for Snowden, one for Daniel Craig, and one for the text.
[Wilywyrm] tied the color channels together in the first panel to output white light. He used red for the second panel and blue for the third. A
complete list of parts with build notes
is available on his Google Drive. [Wilywyrm]’s notes include improvement ideas, like making all the RGB strips color-adjustable with more 555s or a microcontroller and timers.
Perhaps [Wilywyrm] could get into the
clear whiteboard
business after college. | 12 | 4 | [
{
"comment_id": "1137827",
"author": "ERROR_user_unknown",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T06:30:48",
"content": "Fucking A man I want this so badly right now “slow claps”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1137949",
"author": "Eirinn",
... | 1,760,376,364.363828 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/17/cryophone-a-dry-ice-powered-musical-installation/ | Cryophone: A Dry Ice-Powered Musical Installation | James Hobson | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"Musical Hacks"
] | [
"art installation",
"cryophone",
"dry ice hack"
] | [Dmitry] is a bit of an industrial artist / hacker, and he’s recently finished this interesting and interactive
audio exhibit called the Cryophone.
As you know,
dry ice is terribly fun.
When placed in water, it sublimates from its solid to gaseous phase rapidly, releasing carbon dioxide gas and causing a drastic (and sometimes violent) temperature change. [Dmitry’s] project attempts to amplify the sounds of these reactions and create music(?) using data from sensor inputs in the system. He uses piezo elements, temperature sensors, and an Arduino to generate an algorithmic composition from the various sensors, which a Mac Mini then synthesizes and outputs as audio in 6 channels.
The result is an eerie collection of noises that would do well in a haunted house or a horror movie. Take a listen for yourself after the break, and if you missed it, check out
another unique, audio-based art installation: ‘conus.’ | 8 | 4 | [
{
"comment_id": "1137708",
"author": "RunnerPack",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T04:30:42",
"content": "From the title/photo, I was expecting some kind of actual self-playing wind instrument powered by the CO2 subliming out of a block of dry ice… Still kinda cool, I guess… if you like listening to creepy... | 1,760,376,364.596916 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/17/analog-drum-machine/ | Analog Drum Machine | Eric Evenchick | [
"Musical Hacks"
] | [
"analog",
"beat box",
"drum machine",
"op-amp",
"relaxation oscilator"
] | This
analog drum machine
project synthesizes a kick and snare drum that are clocked to a beat. It pulls together a few analog circuits to do the timing and synthesis.
The beat timing is a product of a hysteretic oscillator used to create a ‘shark wave,’ which is a friendly term for the output of a
relaxation oscillator
. This waveform can be compared to a set point using a comparator to create a slow square wave that clocks the drum beat.
The kick drum is synthesized using another hysteretic oscillator, but at a higher frequency, creating a triangle-like waveform at 265 Hz that provides a bass sound. The snare, however, uses white noise provided by a BJT’s P-N junction, which is reverse biased and then amplified. You can spot this transistor because its collector is not connected.
The resulting snare and kick drum wave forms are gated by two transistors into the output. Controlling these gates allows the user to create a drum beat. After the break, check out a video walk-through and a demo of the build. | 11 | 8 | [
{
"comment_id": "1137519",
"author": "zuul",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T00:11:49",
"content": "i can’t really see what’s on the white board",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1137522",
"author": "John Schuch",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T00:15:3... | 1,760,376,364.652146 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/17/retrotechtacular-films-used-to-be-recorded-on-film/ | Retrotechtacular: Films Used To Be Recorded On Film | Mike Szczys | [
"chemistry hacks",
"Hackaday Columns",
"Retrotechtacular"
] | [
"cinema",
"film",
"photo finishing"
] | We’re sure that this title makes some readers itch because there are still a number of well-respected directors who insist on shooting with film rather than digital, but the subject of this week’s Retrotechtacular shows a portion of the movie industry that has surely been relegated to life-support in the past few decades. Photo finishing, once the stronghold of chemical processes used by all to develop their photographs, has become virtually non-existent. This is the story of
how film and photo finishing drove cinema
for much of its life.
The reels seen above are negative and positive film. The negative film goes in the camera and captures the images. After developing and fixing the negative film, the process is repeated. Light shines through the fixed negative in order to expose a fresh reel of film. That film is finished and fixed to create the reel which can be used in a projector. This simple process is covered near the beginning of the clip found below. The 1940 presentation moves on to discuss the in-depth chemistry techniques used in the process. But you’re really in for a treat starting about half-way through when the old manual methods are shown, which have been replaced by the “modern laboratory”. We love those huge analog dials! The video concludes by showing the true industrialization of the film developing process.
We’re running out of Retrotechtacular topics. If you know of something that might be worth a feature
please send in a tip
!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0mraHHyBrA
[Thanks UnderSampled]
Retrotechtacular is a weekly column featuring hacks, technology, and kitsch from ages of yore. Help keep it fresh by
sending in your ideas for future installments
. | 28 | 14 | [
{
"comment_id": "1137444",
"author": "F",
"timestamp": "2013-12-17T22:21:29",
"content": "If it was really “in-depth” then it would detail the horrifying cancer rates seen in upstate NY as a result of “photo finishing”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comme... | 1,760,376,365.315896 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/16/tricked-out-arduino-controlled-time-lapse-is-more-than-just-a-timer/ | Tricked-out Arduino-controlled Time-Lapse Is More Than Just A Timer | Kristina Panos | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"digital cameras hacks"
] | [
"arduino",
"camera",
"infrared",
"photoresistor",
"remote control",
"servo"
] | [Hlesliebole] wanted a finer degree of remote control over his time-lapse shots, so he decided to build an Arduino-driven infrared shutter. He ended up creating this killer
Arduino-controlled photography rig
that does a whole lot more.
This hack was built for [Hlesliebole]’s Nikon D3100, but he says it should work with any DSLR and remote shutter. This initial build uses an LED as a stand-in for the remote shutter that he ordered. He intends to update the post once it arrives and he integrates it.
[Hlesliebole] wired a 7-segment display to show the current time delay between photos. This can be set on the fly with a potentiometer, so there’s no need to stop and reprogram the Arduino. And while you’re grabbing a beer and watching the sun slowly sink, the rig can better capture that sunset because of a photoresistor. It detects the ambient light level and minimizes the number of throwaway dark shots.
If that weren’t enough, he’s built servo functionality into the code to support remote control over the camera’s physical position, allowing for panning or rotation over a scene. [Hlesliebole] doesn’t go into detail, but he assures us that there are many tutorials out there. If you think you’re man enough, you could always work in
this outstanding versatile motion dolly hack
.
http://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FZE/UN2R/HOW0IFLK/FZEUN2RHOW0IFLK.mp4 | 1 | 1 | [
{
"comment_id": "1137647",
"author": "Allison",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T03:10:23",
"content": "I did time-lapse photography for one of my internships, and there is a way to do that without having to program/build with Arduino (love the concept though and will be investigating this).Some cameras are... | 1,760,376,364.937969 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/16/fubarino-contest-battery-capacity-tester/ | Fubarino Contest: Battery Capacity Tester | Mike Szczys | [
"contests"
] | [
"battery capacity",
"discharge",
"fubarino-contest"
] | Here’s a project that we sadly let slip through the cracks a couple of years ago. Luckily [Brian] dusted it off and added an Easter Egg to the firmware in order to include it in the Fubarino Contest. The device is
a rechargeable battery capacity tester
. It discharges NiMH or NiCad batteries through a load resistor at about 1 Watt. [Brian] includes a discussion in his write-up about the hardware’s inability to work with 14500 Li-Ion cells. He includes enough info for you to figure out how to make changes to the circuit if you want to enable this option.
There is a MOSFET for switching each of the three battery positions. The ATmega168 takes readings from the cells once per second. It displays status information on a Nokia 5510 cellphone screen. This is where he chose to inject the Hackaday URL. When a cell’s discharge is complete, the image above scrolls onto the screen and remains there for a short time. See for yourself after the break.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HhEzlcrpjY
This is an entry in
the Fubarino Contest
. Submit your entry before 12/19/13 for a chance at one of the 20
Fubarino SD boards
which Microchip has put up as prizes! | 5 | 3 | [
{
"comment_id": "1136299",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2013-12-16T23:15:31",
"content": "It seems counterintuitive to test battery capacity by discharging them. Surely the charge level will be different once they have been charged again?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
... | 1,760,376,365.179261 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/16/aluminum-bitcoin-keychain/ | Aluminum Bitcoin Keychain | James Hobson | [
"cnc hacks"
] | [
"bitcoin",
"bitcoin keychain",
"OCLvanitygen",
"taig mill",
"taigmill"
] | Here’s a cool way to bring a physical presence to your Bitcoins:
a custom CNC milled QR code Bitcoin address!
[ch00f], one of our
occasional
writers here at Hack a Day, has just finished this slick aluminum Bitcoin QR code keychain. He started by creating a vanity Bitcoin address using a program called
OCLVanitygen
, consisting of
his dad’s first initial and last name at the beginning, followed by a random string of numbers. I
t only took his Radeon HD6790
6 hours to solve, which amounted to approximately
half a trillion guesses
in order to find the address
!
He then took his shiny new Bitcoin address and created a QR code from it using an web-based generator. [ch00f] then increased the resolution of the image in Photoshop and imported it into a CNC program called
CamBam
. A converted CNC Taig mill got to work tracing out the code with a 0.049″ carbide end. The total milling time was just over 2 hours. A bit of black spray paint, some sanding, and a few layers of clear coat later and the keychain is done!
[via
Reddit
] | 55 | 13 | [
{
"comment_id": "1136198",
"author": "Rodrigo",
"timestamp": "2013-12-16T21:18:21",
"content": "where is the hack?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1136200",
"author": "Mathieu Stephan",
"timestamp": "2013-12-16T21:19:58",
... | 1,760,376,365.132408 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/16/machine-learning-used-to-create-an-hiv-vaccine/ | Machine Learning Used To Create An HIV Vaccine | Mike Szczys | [
"chemistry hacks",
"Medical Hacks"
] | [
"aids",
"epitope",
"hiv",
"immunity project",
"vaccine"
] | When we think of machine learning it’s usually in the context of robotics—giving an algorithm a large set of input data in order to train it for a certain task
like navigation
or
understanding your handwriting
. But it turns out you can also train a nasty virus to go to sleep and never wake up again. That’s exactly what
the Immunity Project
has been doing. They believe that they have a viable HIV vaccine and are trying to raise about $25 million to begin human testing.
The vaccine hacks the Human Immunodeficiency Virus itself, forcing it to mutate into a dormant form that will not attack its human carrier. It sounds so simple, but a lot of existing knowledge and procedures, as well as new technology, went into getting this far. Last week we spoke with [
Reid Rubsamen, M.D.
] about the process, which began by collecting blood samples from a wide range of “
Controllers
“. Controllers are people who carry HIV but manage to suppress the virus’s progression to AIDS. How do you find these people? That’s another story which
Scientific American covered
(PDF); the short answer is that thanks to the work of [
Bruce D. Walker, M.D.
] there was already a database of Controllers available.
The information accumulated by [Walker] then underwent a data crunching exercise. The data set was so enormous that a novel approach was adopted. For the laymen this is described as a spam filter: using computers to look at large sets of email to develop a complex process for sifting real messages out of the noise. The task at hand is to look at the genotype of a Controller and compare it with the
epitope
— a short chain of proteins—in the virus they carry. The power of machine learning managed to whittle down all the data to a list of the first six epitopes that have the desired dormant-mutation property. The vaccine consists of a cocktail of these epitopes. It does, however, require some clever delivery tactics to reach the parts of the world where it’s most needed. The vaccine must not require refrigeration nor any special skills to administer.
The vaccine’s production uses existing methods to synthesize the amino acid peptides, which are the epitopes themselves. The packaging, however, is a new concept. [Dr. Rubsamen’s] company,
Flow Parma, Inc.
, is using microspheres to encapsulate the vaccine, which render it shelf-stable and allow it to be administered through a nasal spray. Learn more about the technology behind the production of microspheres from
this white paper
(PDF).
If the vaccine (which will be produced without profit) passes clinical trials, it could see mass distribution as early as 2017.
The $25M we mentioned earlier is a tall hill to climb, but think of the reward if the vaccine is successful. You can
donate directly
to help reach this goal. If you’re planning on giving gift cards this year, you can purchase them for many different retailers through
Gyft, who is donating 100% of December proceeds to the project
. | 33 | 18 | [
{
"comment_id": "1136009",
"author": "Augur",
"timestamp": "2013-12-16T18:28:03",
"content": "This is I think the coolest thing I’ve seen about the HIV/AIDS research in a long time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1136226",
"author": "... | 1,760,376,365.388183 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/16/further-teardown-of-the-saturn-v-flight-computer/ | Further Teardown Of The Saturn V Flight Computer | Eric Evenchick | [
"classic hacks"
] | [
"depotting",
"lvdc",
"saturn v",
"space",
"teardown"
] | [Fran] has been working on tearing down and reverse engineering the Saturn V Launch Vehicle Digital Computer (LVDC). In her finale, she’s succeeded in
depotting the legacy components
while keeping them intact.
She accomplished this by carefully removing the silicone compound using a gum brush. This was a laborious process, but it allowed her to see the device’s innards. With this knowledge, she could recreate the logic modules on a breadboard.
[Fran]’s work on the LVDC has been very interesting. It began with a
look at the PCB
, followed by an
x-ray analysis
. Next up was a
three
part
series
of the teardown. With each part is a detailed video on the progress.
While this is the end of [Fran]’s work on the project, she will be handing off the LVDC hardware to another engineer to continue the analysis. We’re looking forward to seeing what comes out of this continued research. | 23 | 5 | [
{
"comment_id": "1135817",
"author": "Apex1302",
"timestamp": "2013-12-16T15:25:06",
"content": "wow the guys in the 60s went trough alot of work to fake a moon landing ;-)just kidding.Fran you are doing an awsome job there. I wish a had some Apollo or even better some Gemini Hardware to “play” with... | 1,760,376,365.443038 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/16/reverse-engineering-a-candle-flicker-led/ | Reverse Engineering A Candle Flicker LED | Eric Evenchick | [
"LED Hacks"
] | [
"AVR",
"candle ficker",
"linear shift feedback register",
"pseudorandom"
] | Candle flicker LEDs are a one part replacement for a real candle. They contain both a yellow LED and a control chip that modulates the light to create a candle effect. [Cpldcpu] took a deep look into
reverse engineering one of these LEDs
.
To analyze the circuit, which is potted into the LED itself, a shunt sense resistor was connected to the LED. By connecting this resistor to a logic analyzer, the control signal could be observed.
This control signal looked like pulse width modulation, with some randomness to the duty cycle. [Cpldcpu] determined that a
linear feedback shift register
was most likely used to generate a pseudeorandom bitstream, and some shaping was applied to make the LED look more like a real candle.
It turns out a blinking LED can be quite complex, and this takes a deep look into it by analyzing the signal. [Cpldcpu] took the lessons learned and wrote an
implementation of the algorithm for AVR
. | 55 | 19 | [
{
"comment_id": "1135673",
"author": "future_me",
"timestamp": "2013-12-16T12:40:24",
"content": "And I thought these just played “Happy Birthday” over and over again.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1135676",
"author": "Jef",
"timestamp... | 1,760,376,365.582141 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/16/a-new-way-to-heat-people/ | A New Way To Heat People | James Hobson | [
"green hacks",
"home hacks",
"Kinect hacks"
] | [
"focused heating",
"Kinect",
"leigh christie",
"tedtalk"
] | [Leigh Christie] is a researcher at MIT, and he’s developed an interesting solution to
heating people, not buildings.
His TEDx talk, “Heating Buildings is Stupid,” demonstrates the MIT SENSEable City Laboratory’s efforts to tackle energy issues. Their research focuses on finding an alternative to the staggering waste of energy used to heat large spaces. Although TED talk articles are a rarity at Hackaday, we think this idea is both simple and useful. Also, [Leigh] is the same guy who brought us the
Mondo Spider
a few years ago for the Burning Man exhibition. He’s a hacker.
Anyway, what is it? The system he’s devised is so simple that it’s brilliant: a person-tracking infrared heat spotlight. Using a Microsoft Kinect, the lamp follows you around and keeps the individual warm rather than the entire space. [Leigh] has grand plans for implementing what he calls “Local Heating” in large buildings to save on energy consumption, but smaller-scale implementations could prove equally beneficial for a big garage or a workshop. How much does your workspace cost to heat during the winter? Hackerspaces seem like the perfect test environment for a cobbled-together “Local Heating” system. If anyone builds one, we want to hear about it.
Check out the full TEDx talk after the break. | 146 | 50 | [
{
"comment_id": "1135481",
"author": "mistbooster",
"timestamp": "2013-12-16T09:24:31",
"content": "Yeah an awesome concept, till the point when the equipment malfunctions, and heating people, turns to cooking people.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment... | 1,760,376,365.749074 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/17/fubarino-contest-game-boy-printer/ | Fubarino Contest: Game Boy Printer | Mike Szczys | [
"contests",
"Nintendo Game Boy Hacks"
] | [
"fubarino-contest",
"game boy printer"
] | [Dave] has a Game Boy Printer and loves the Mario-themed Easter egg that prints while holding the feed button during power-up. When he heard that Microchip gave us some Fubarino boards for our Easter Egg Contest, this hardware immediately came to mind and he set out to
add a Hackaday Easter egg to the printer
.
To tinker with the hardware, [Dave] built on
the work of [Furrtek]—featured here a few years ago—
which simplified the process of printing directly from an Arduino board. Connecting the TX and RX lines of the Arduino triggers the new Easter egg. He demonstrates printing both of the hidden messages in the video below.
This is an entry in
the Fubarino Contest
. Submit your entry before 12/19/13 for a chance at one of the 20
Fubarino SD boards
which Microchip has put up as prizes! | 5 | 3 | [
{
"comment_id": "1137830",
"author": "ERROR_user_unknown",
"timestamp": "2013-12-18T06:32:48",
"content": "The printer is a very unique device I thing we will never see a iphone printer or a xbone printer / other modern hardware. I have been looking for one “in good condition” as long as I have know... | 1,760,376,365.490844 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/17/fixing-christmas-lights-and-shocking-yourself-silly/ | Fixing Christmas Lights And Shocking Yourself Silly | Brian Benchoff | [
"Holiday Hacks"
] | [
"Christmas Light",
"christmas lights"
] | As [Medhi] was setting up his Christmas tree, he found a string with a few broken lights. Because he’d bought a cheap string of lights wired in series,
of course
one bulb was burnt out, rendering the entire string useless. His original game plan was to search through the entire strand for the broken bulb, but that’s the easy way out. His backup plan was to zap the broken bulb out of the string. After a few hours of figuring out what that meant,
he came up with a way to fix a broken string of lights.
When a bulb burns out, the filament breaks creating an
air
argon gap between the two electrodes. By sending a huge voltage down the string, it should fire an arc through that gap, illuminating the burnt-out bulb for a brief time.
Experiments with socks and low humidity commenced, but it wasn’t until [Medhi] stuck his finger in a lighter that he found a better source of high voltage sparks. [Mr. Brows] connected the piezoelectric element to the plugs on his string of lights and… nothing happened. At least until he plugged the lights back in. Then, strangely, they worked.
The reddit thread for the video
says this behavior is due to an anti-fuse built into the bulb. When enough voltage goes through this anti-fuse, a thin sheet of insulator breaks down and allows dead bulbs to short themselves.
Hackaday head honcho [Mike] just got this method of finding dead Christmas lights to work, replacing 14 bulbs in a string of 100 lights. This leads us to an interesting question: why isn’t this simple method of fixing a string of Christmas lights common knowledge? You would think something this useful wouldn’t be introduced to the world via a YouTube video where someone repeatedly burns and shocks himself. You can, of course,
buy something that does the same thing
, but this is far too simple of a solution for a classic problem to pass under our noses for this long. | 40 | 23 | [
{
"comment_id": "1137223",
"author": "kristian",
"timestamp": "2013-12-17T18:11:58",
"content": "Well, the anti-fuse is probably a way for the burnt bulbs to fix themselves. In series, each bulb would normally have a reduced voltage drop, but when a bulb is burnt out, that one bulb will have the ent... | 1,760,376,365.835264 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/17/particle-system-busy-box-keeps-baby-occupied/ | Particle System Busy Box Keeps Baby Occupied | Brian Benchoff | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"LED Hacks",
"Toy Hacks"
] | [
"Busy box",
"particle system",
"rainbowduino"
] | Any child born today has a bright future ahead of them—mostly consisting of watching glowing rectangles for 80 or 90 years. To give his progeny a jump-start on a lifetime of watching LEDs flicker, [Dan]
created a busy box
. It’s really just an Arduino, RGB LED matrix, and a programmed particle system, but if we’re fascinated by it, it will probably blow an infant’s mind.
The idea for this busy box originated with
an earlier Hackaday post
that used an 8×8 matrix of RGB LEDs to create a moving color cloud. [Dan] took this project as a jumping off point and created an infant’s busy box with four modes that are sure to be entertaining.
Inside the is
a Rainboduino
: an Arduino compatible board capable of driving an 8×8 RGB LED matrix. Also stuffed inside the busy box is a 9V battery, rocker switch for the power, and four arcade buttons that cycle through each mode. The first mode is some sort of ‘plasma cloud’ simulation, the next is a ‘painter’ light display. The final two modes spell out [Dan]’s spawn’s name, and all the numbers and letters of the alphabet. | 20 | 9 | [
{
"comment_id": "1137064",
"author": "cpldcpu",
"timestamp": "2013-12-17T15:06:55",
"content": "I suppose the first 20 seconds in the video are to test the attention span of an adult? I noticed it! :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1137116",
... | 1,760,376,365.895885 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/17/stylish-oled-watch-uses-accelerometer-instead-of-buttons/ | Stylish OLED Watch Uses Accelerometer Instead Of Buttons | Mathieu Stephan | [
"clock hacks"
] | [
"accelerometer",
"EagleCad",
"msp430",
"oled",
"sketchup",
"watch",
"wristwatch"
] | A few days ago [Andrew] contacted us to offer his help for the design of the
mooltipass project
case. While introducing himself, he casually mentioned
his OLED watch
that you can see above.
The watch is based on the low-power MSP430F microcontroller from Texas Instruments. It can consume as little as 1.5uA while maintaining a real-time clock and monitoring interrupts. It also uses
ferroelectric RAM
, which doesn’t need any power to retain its memory contents. That means there’s no need to set the time again if you remove the CR2016 battery that powers the watch.
[Andrew] chose an 0.96″ OLED display that only consumes up to 7mA. He also included an accelerometer that allows him to interact with the watch through its single and double tap detecting feature. He modeled his PCB using EagleCAD and the whole assembly using Sketchup. Most of the components were soldered in his reflow (toaster) oven. The final result is a mere 8.8mm thick and looks very professional in our opinion. | 30 | 9 | [
{
"comment_id": "1136907",
"author": "jcwren",
"timestamp": "2013-12-17T12:05:35",
"content": "“That means there’s no need to set the time again if you remove the CR2016 battery that powers the watch.”I guess that depends on how long it takes you to replace the battery, and how much deviation from N... | 1,760,376,366.138401 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/17/shopping-trolley-is-wired-for-camp/ | Shopping Trolley Is Wired For Camp | Adam Fabio | [
"Transportation Hacks"
] | [
"electronics",
"Jaycar",
"shopping cart",
"trolley"
] | [James] needed some cool transportation for the upcoming Easter Camp in New Zealand, so he created a
custom motorized shopping trolley
that is sure to turn heads. The base of this project is a standard mobility scooter, which conveniently has a modular design. All of the electronics have connectors for quick service and the entire rear axle and motor assembly pop off with the pull of a lever.
[James] had to do a bit of welding and chassis rework to achieve his goal of mounting a shopping cart top to the scooter’s frame. Once finished, though, the setup looked great. It was actually comfortable to sit in, as [James] made a cutout for the driver’s feet to pass through. The real fun came with the electronics. The trolley is the most wired mobility scooter mod we’ve ever seen. Most of the electronics are contained in a project box under the seat, with several Arduinos that control the various systems: interfacing with the original scooter electronics, a GPS receiver, and a GSM radio. [James] also went as far as to add RGB LED headlights, a horn, and a multi-tone siren from Jaycar.
Driving the trolley is simple. An arcade joystick selects the speed, and the scooter’s standard hand controls are used for forward, reverse, and steering. One of the more interesting mods [James] made was a custom Windows app to control the trolley via a USB radio module. The entire system can be secured, with the security code stored in NVRAM to prevent a power cycle from unlocking the system. [James] can even command the trolley to go forward or reverse from his touch screen. We’d love to see him add a steering servo to make it a completely remote-controlled solution, though this step would require some sort of clutch for manual control.
The final design works very well. [James] may not win any drag races by keeping scooter’s original speed controls and associated electronics, but he did extend the range with larger batteries, so we’re sure the trolley will be a hit all over the camp. Similar projects have been built using the base of an electric wheelchair. If you have one that you want to control without invasive changes to the hardware, check out
this accessibility hack which interfaces using a connector
.
[Thanks Mike] | 13 | 8 | [
{
"comment_id": "1136775",
"author": "Timo",
"timestamp": "2013-12-17T09:22:15",
"content": "Now put another shopping cart upside down on top of that thing and you can drive through walls :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1136876",
"author"... | 1,760,376,366.576881 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/16/hacking-a-heating-pad/ | Hacking A Heating Pad | James Hobson | [
"home hacks",
"Microcontrollers"
] | [
"automation",
"heat",
"heating pad hack",
"home automation"
] | [Bob] and his wife use a bed heating pad. In the winter, they typically turn it on about an hour before bedtime so the bed is nice and warm. The problem is, if they accidentally leave it on, they’ll wake up a few hours later: overheated. What they needed was an
advanced timer system.
A normal outlet timer wouldn’t fit his needs: most of the year the pad should shut off after a slight delay, but in the winter they prefer to leave the heating pad on at a much lower temperature. [Bob] decided to create a custom timer with a microcontroller to provide adjustable duration and heating levels.
The circuit is simple. It consists of a microcontroller, a 2-digit LED display, two buttons, and two wires that connect to the heating pad’s original controller. The final build allows you to set the time the pad turns on, turns off, and/or down a few levels. It’s a fantastic hack, and you can see how the interface works in the video following the break. | 18 | 9 | [
{
"comment_id": "1136694",
"author": "James",
"timestamp": "2013-12-17T07:53:21",
"content": "I like the idea of being able to set the timer in advance, but most modern heating pads/blankets have an auto-off timer built in.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"c... | 1,760,376,366.403285 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/16/attacknid-becomes-laser-death-drone/ | Attacknid Becomes Laser Death Drone | Adam Fabio | [
"Laser Hacks"
] | [
"blind",
"Class 4",
"laser",
"Tactical High Energy Laser",
"Watt"
] | [styroPyro] liked his Attacknid, but decided it needed just a bit more
blue death ray laser
. We’ve seen [styroPyro’s]
high-powered laser hacks before
, but this time he’s taken to hacking one of
[Jaimie Mantzel’s]
Attacknid robots. According to one of the top comments on [styroPyro’s] video—a comment by Attacknid inventor [Jaimie] himself—the robots were meant to be hacked, and [Jamie] is ecstatic.
[styropyro] removed the disk shooter from his Attacknid and used the fire control circuit to activate a 2 watt blue laser. A low powered, red laser pointer serves as a laser sight, allowing you to aim at your target before unleashing the beefy blue laser. As the video shows, 2 watts is a heck of a lot of power. The Attacknid easily pops balloons and sets fire to flash paper. As usual, we urge you to use caution when handling 2 watt lasers, which fall under
Class 4
: aka the most dangerous class of lasers. Goggles, skin protection, and safety interlocks are the order of the day. [styroPyro] has been working with high power lasers for a few years, and seems to know what he’s doing. That said, we’ll leave the burning lasers to the professionals. | 26 | 9 | [
{
"comment_id": "1136509",
"author": "Richard",
"timestamp": "2013-12-17T03:10:28",
"content": "not proper eye protection for a blue lasermight as well not even wear goggles",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1136516",
"author": "insurgen... | 1,760,376,366.261269 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/15/controlling-high-voltage-7-segment-displays/ | Controlling High Voltage 7-Segment Displays | Kevin Darrah | [
"LED Hacks"
] | [
"7 segment",
"display",
"MAX7219"
] | The MAX7219 is one of those parts in your bin that has a “done and done” attitude. In case you’re unfamiliar, this chip can be used to control 7-Segment displays, 8×8 Matrix displays, or even a pile of random LEDs. You talk to it via a simple serial interface and it handles the tasks you don’t want to fuss with, such as multiplexing and modulation. Not all displays are alike, however, so [Raj] wrote in to show how he used the
MAX7219 to control high voltage 7-segment displays.
The spec on the MAX7219 only allows an input voltage of 5V, which limits the driver output to around 4V and can cause problems when using large displays that series-connect LEDs internally. [Raj’s] solution allows the MAX7219 to control displays with combined forward voltages of up to 24V, and as an added bonus, the circuit maintains compatibility with existing microcontroller libraries. We imagine this could be a nifty trick to keep on hand the next time you need to
control large scoreboard displays.
The circuit works with the help of intermediate drivers to essentially level-shift the voltage to the display, which both provides the high voltage and protects the MAX7219’s inputs. One of the drawbacks of this circuit is losing the MAX7219’s constant current feature, requiring that each segment connection includes a current-limiting resistor. We appreciate this design’s attention to default states, because you wouldn’t want all of your LEDs turning ON during boot-up! | 8 | 5 | [
{
"comment_id": "1134623",
"author": "Alex Henrique",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T12:45:01",
"content": "I think this is not the best solution. TPIC6B595 is far better.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1134736",
"author": "tekkieneet",
"time... | 1,760,376,366.193267 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/14/digital-electric-meter-monitor-goes-old-school/ | Digital Electric Meter Monitor Goes Old School | Adam Fabio | [
"home hacks"
] | [
"power meter"
] | [Sal] sent us his digital electric meter monitor, which immediately made us nostalgic for some of
Forrest Mims’ books
. Sal’s schematic and circuit description are similar to Forrest’s style, and we mean that as a compliment. Even in today’s world of CAD and EDS packages, sketching out a circuit by hand is sometimes both easier and faster. The schematic isn’t the only classic aspect of [Sal’s] design. He’s collecting data using a parallel port on an unused PC: in this case, a Toshiba Libretto running Windows 95. Before cheap flash-based microcontrollers and dev boards were available, the PC parallel port was the go-to hardware hacking interface for many of us. Plenty of the software running those old hacks was written in basic, and [Sal’s] meter is no exception. His software runs on
Microsoft QBasic
, which shipped with Windows 95.
The circuit takes advantage of the digital meter’s output: a 10 ms pulse for every 1 Wh of energy used. An IR photo detector from RadioShack detects the meter pulses, which are amplified by an LM324 Op Amp. An NPN transistor then shifts the output to send it to two 74LS73 JK flip flops. The first flip flop uses a transistor to drive an LED for visual output. The second JK flip flop sends the data to the PC. The flip flop has the effect of dividing the number of meter pulses by two, creating a much longer toggled signal that a PC can better detect.
Although using an AVR or PIC would consume less power, [Sal’s] setup has already more than paid for its power usage. By monitoring and adapting his electrical usage, [Sal] is saving $20 a month on his electric bill. We’ve included [Sal’s] circuit diagram and source code after the break (apologies to our readers on RSS).
First [Sal’s] test program:
CLS
SCREEN 12
10 W = INP(&H379)
IF W <= 127 THEN GOTO 10 R! = TIMER 20 W = INP(&H379) IF W > 127 THEN GOTO 20
30 W = INP(&H379)
IF W <= 127 THEN GOTO 30
S! = TIMER
T! = S! – R!
IF T! = 0 THEN GOTO 10
KW = 7.2 / T!
PRINT KW;
ON KEY(1) GOSUB 40
KEY(1) ON
GOTO 10
40 END
Here is the main application:
CLS
REM C:\METER011.BAS
1 SCREEN 12
LOCATE 1, 1: INPUT "INPUT ELECTRICAL METER KWH ", QQ
LOCATE 1, 1: FOR X = 1 TO 40: PRINT " "; : NEXT
DD1$ = MID$(DATE$, 4, 2) 'DAYS
TH1$ = LEFT$(TIME$, 2) 'HOURS
TM1$ = MID$(TIME$, 4, 2) 'MINUTES
TS1$ = RIGHT$(TIME$, 2) 'SECONDS
4 A = 0: B = 0: C = 0: D = 0: F = 0: G = 0: K = 0: L = 0: M = 0: N = 0
O = 0: P = 0: Q = 0: R = 0: V = 32: LA = 0: MB = 0: NC = 0: OD = 0: NN = 0
DD = 1: U = 1
DIM A(120): DIM B(120): DIM C(25): DIM D(32)
B = VAL(TM1$)
C = VAL(TH1$)
D = VAL(DD1$)
GOSUB 2010
GOSUB 500
8 Q! = TIMER
10 W = INP(&H379)
IF W <= 127 THEN GOTO 10 R! = TIMER 20 W = INP(&H379) IF W > 127 THEN GOTO 20
AA& = AA& + 1
BB& = BB& + 1
30 W = INP(&H379)
IF W <= 127 THEN GOTO 30
S! = TIMER
IF S! < Q! THEN S! = S! + 86400 T! = S! - R! IF T! >= 0 AND T! <= .5 THEN GOTO 10 K = (7.2 / T!) LOCATE 1, 5: PRINT USING "##.###"; K; LOCATE 1, 11: PRINT " KW" ON KEY(1) GOSUB 1000: KEY(1) ON 100 A = A + 1: L = L + K: LA = L / A A(A) = K IF K >= 7 THEN A(A) = 7
V = 32 + A * 8: Y = A(A) * 16: LINE (V, 135)-(V, 135 - Y), 10
TM2$ = MID$(TIME$, 4, 2)
IF TM2$ = TM1$ THEN 110 ELSE GOSUB 1005
110 IF S! - Q! >= 60 THEN GOSUB 600
IF S! - Q! >= 60 THEN 125
GOTO 10
125 A = 0: B = B + 1: L = 0: M = M + LA: MB = M / B
B(B) = LA
IF LA >= 5 THEN B(B) = 5
V = 32 + B * 8: Y = B(B) * 16: LINE (V, 247)-(V, 247 - Y), 10
TH2$ = LEFT$(TIME$, 2)
IF TH2$ = TH1$ THEN 126 ELSE GOSUB 700
IF TH2$ = TH1$ THEN 126 ELSE GOTO 150
126 GOTO 8
150 TH1$ = TH2$: B = 0: C = C + 1: M = 0: N = N + MB: NC = N / C
C(C) = MB
IF MB >= 3 THEN C(C) = 3
V = 32 + C * 8: Y = C(C) * 16: LINE (V, 327)-(V, 327 - Y), 10
151 IF C >= 24 THEN GOSUB 800
IF C >= 24 THEN 175
GOTO 8
175 C = 0: D = D + 1: N = 0: O = O + NC: OD = O / D
D(D) = NC
IF NC >= 4 THEN D(D) = 4
V = 32 + D * 8: Y = D(D) * 38.4: LINE (V, 423)-(V, 423 - Y), 10
IF D >= DA THEN GOSUB 900
IF D >= DA THEN 180
GOTO 8
180 D = 0: O = 0: E = E + 1: P = P + OD * 24: PE = P / E
E = 0: P = 0
GOTO 4
500 REM ONE MINUTE KW PLOT
LOCATE 2, 1
FOR G = 7 TO 0 STEP -1: PRINT USING "##.#"; G; : PRINT CHR$(45): NEXT
FOR GG = 2 TO 9
LOCATE GG, 6: FOR T = 1 TO 60: PRINT CHR$(45); : NEXT
NEXT
LOCATE 10, 6: PRINT " KW/1 MINUTE"
REM ONE HOUR KWH PLOT
LOCATE 11, 1
FOR G = 5 TO 0 STEP -1: PRINT USING "##.#"; G; : PRINT CHR$(45): NEXT
FOR GG = 11 TO 16
LOCATE GG, 6: FOR T = 1 TO 60: PRINT CHR$(45); : NEXT
NEXT
LOCATE 17, 6: PRINT " KW/1 HOUR"
REM ONE DAY KWH PLOT
LOCATE 18, 1
FOR G = 3 TO 0 STEP -1: PRINT USING "##.#"; G; : PRINT CHR$(45): NEXT
FOR GG = 18 TO 21
LOCATE GG, 6: FOR T = 1 TO 24: PRINT CHR$(45); : NEXT
NEXT
LOCATE 22, 6: PRINT " KWH/1 DAY"
REM ONE MONTH TOTAL KWH
LOCATE 23, 1
FOR G = 40 TO 0 STEP -10: PRINT USING "##.#"; G; : PRINT CHR$(45): NEXT
FOR GG = 23 TO 27
LOCATE GG, 6: FOR T = 1 TO DA: PRINT CHR$(45); : NEXT
NEXT
LOCATE 28, 6: PRINT " KWH/1 MONTH"
REM DATE AND TIME
LOCATE 1, 17: PRINT DATE$
LOCATE 1, 30: PRINT TIME$
LOCATE 1, 41: PRINT USING "#####.#"; QQ;
PRINT " KWH"
RETURN
600 FOR HH = 2 TO 9: LOCATE HH, 6: FOR H = 1 TO 60: PRINT " "; : NEXT H: NEXT HH
FOR GG = 2 TO 9
LOCATE GG, 6: FOR T = 1 TO 60: PRINT CHR$(45); : NEXT
NEXT
RETURN
700 FOR HH = 11 TO 16: LOCATE HH, 6: FOR H = 1 TO 60: PRINT " "; : NEXT H: NEXT HH
FOR GG = 11 TO 16
LOCATE GG, 6: FOR T = 1 TO 60: PRINT CHR$(45); : NEXT
NEXT
RETURN
800 FOR HH = 18 TO 21: LOCATE HH, 6: FOR H = 1 TO 24: PRINT " "; : NEXT H: NEXT HH
FOR GG = 18 TO 21
LOCATE GG, 6: FOR T = 1 TO 24: PRINT CHR$(45); : NEXT
NEXT
RETURN
900 FOR HH = 23 TO 28: LOCATE HH, 6: FOR H = 1 TO DA: PRINT " "; : NEXT H: NEXT HH
FOR GG = 23 TO 27
LOCATE GG, 6: FOR T = 1 TO 31: PRINT CHR$(45); : NEXT
NEXT
RETURN
1000 LOCATE 1, 1
INPUT "QUIT? YES OR NO ", ANS$
IF ANS$ = "YES" THEN END
RETURN
REM 1005 LOCATE 28, 37
1005 LOCATE 28, 38
DA$ = (LEFT$(DATE$, 5))
TI$ = (LEFT$(TIME$, 5))
PP = ((7.2 * BB&) / 3600)
TT = QQ + PP
PRINT DA$; " "; TI$; " ";
PRINT USING "###.#"; PP;
PRINT " KWH"
LOCATE 1, 54
PRINT USING "#####.#"; TT;
PRINT " KWH"
REM IF PP >= 0 AND PP < 303 THEN XX = PP * .13: GOTO 1006 REM IF PP >= 303 AND PP < 394 THEN XX = 39.52 + (PP - 304) * .16: GOTO 1006 REM IF PP >= 394 AND PP < 606 THEN XX = 54.08 + (PP - 395) * .26: GOTO 1006 REM IF PP >= 606 AND PP < 648 THEN XX = 109.46 + (PP - 608) * .29: GOTO 1006
REM 1006 PRINT " "; "$";
REM PRINT USING "###.##"; XX
RETURN
1007 LOCATE U, 67
VV = ((7.2 * AA&) / 3600)
PRINT DD2$; " ";
PRINT USING "###.##"; VV
AA& = 0
U = U + 1
IF U = 29 THEN U = 1
PP = (7.2 * BB&) / 3600
TT = QQ + PP
RETURN
2010 C$ = LEFT$(DATE$, 2)
ON VAL(C$) GOTO 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2108, 2109, 2110, 2111, 2112
2101 DA = 31: GOTO 3000
2102 E$ = MID$(DATE$, 9, 2)
IF VAL(E$) = 16 THEN DA = 29 ELSE DA = 28
IF VAL(E$) = 20 THEN DA = 29 ELSE DA = 28
IF VAL(E$) = 24 THEN DA = 29 ELSE DA = 28
IF VAL(E$) = 28 THEN DA = 29 ELSE DA = 28
GOTO 3000
2103 DA = 31: GOTO 3000
2104 DA = 30: GOTO 3000
2105 DA = 31: GOTO 3000
2106 DA = 30: GOTO 3000
2107 DA = 31: GOTO 3000
2108 DA = 31: GOTO 3000
2109 DA = 30: GOTO 3000
2110 DA = 31: GOTO 3000
2111 DA = 30: GOTO 3000
2112 DA = 31: GOTO 3000
3000 RETURN
3010 LOCATE 28, 24
T1$ = LEFT$(TIME$, 5)
PRINT T1$
RETURN | 22 | 10 | [
{
"comment_id": "1134404",
"author": "Kevin Ward",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T06:46:35",
"content": "A super neat device, and I do really love the Mimsian documentation.However, the article needs correction. The two flip-flops are not fed into each other at all. The transistor just provides a clock si... | 1,760,376,366.338081 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/14/reverse-engineering-an-lcd-display/ | Reverse Engineering An LCD Display | Phillip Ryals | [
"classic hacks",
"ipod hacks"
] | [
"d-phy",
"ipod nano",
"lcd",
"mipi"
] | The current marketplace allows hobbyists to easily find inexpensive, well-documented displays, but what if you wanted to interface with something more complicated, such as the screen on an iPod Nano 6? [Mike] has given us
a detailed and insightful video
showing his process for reverse engineering a device with little-to-no documentation. Here he covers the initial investigation, where one scours the web in search of any available information. In [Mike’s] example, the display uses an MIPI D-PHY interface, which he has never worked with. He learns that the
MIPI Alliance
will provide design specs in exchange for a signed NDA (Non-Disclosure Agreement) and a modest $8000 fee. Nice.
[Mike] shows off some serious hardware hackery, tackling some extremely difficult soldering in order to set up a proper test platform. He then demonstrates how to use a rather awesome oscilloscope to better understand the display protocol. We found it fascinating to see the video signals displayed as waveforms, especially when he shows how it is possible to count the individual binary values. T
he amount of information he uncovers with the oscilloscope is nothing short of amazing, proving these little devices are more complex than they seem.
[via Hacked Gadgets] | 31 | 12 | [
{
"comment_id": "1134280",
"author": "Seriously",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T03:03:38",
"content": "Repost.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1134366",
"author": "Mcof",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T05:56:17",
"content": "Could these same te... | 1,760,376,366.522785 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/14/building-mosaic-lego-lamps/ | Building Mosaic LEGO Lamps | Kevin Darrah | [
"Toy Hacks"
] | [
"display",
"lego",
"light",
"lite-brite"
] | Looking for a throw back to your childhood, or maybe you just appreciate things that light up and look amazing? Well, [Baron] has a really impressive project for you. Not only does it look stunning and incorporate all of the things we love, it’s actually a pretty novel design. These
lamps are built completely out of LEGO
Technic pieces, the brand of LEGO that have holes drilled through them so you can build more advanced creations.
[Baron] used these parts with the drilled holes to create a dot matrix in which he placed colored transparent LEGO dots in the holes. The method of creating patterns is very similar to the way it’s done on the “Lite-Brite”. We especially love the theme of these lamps and they would match well with your
LEGO mystery box.
What’s really great about this tutorial is that it lays down the foundation for LEGO-built lamps that could be more interactive, involve more control (like RGB LEDs), or even introduce some LEGO mechanics! | 10 | 5 | [
{
"comment_id": "1134175",
"author": "C",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T00:38:35",
"content": "> completely out of LEGO Technic piecesNope.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1134229",
"author": "Greenaum",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T01:36:25",
... | 1,760,376,366.452071 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/14/testing-six-hundred-fish/ | Testing Six Hundred Fish | Brian Benchoff | [
"hardware"
] | [
"bluetooth",
"ice fishing",
"product development"
] | That’s the best and most obtuse title you’ll ever see for a Hackaday post, but surprisingly it’s pretty accurate. [Bob] over at the Sector67 hackerspace took part in a 111-day accelerator program in Shenzhen last year to improve his manufacturing skills. He’s just about ready to release his first product,
a Bluetooth device that connects to an ice fishing tip-up
. The blog for the device recounts the challenges of
taking a project from a circuit to a finished product
, and illustrates the difference between building something with an Arduino and selling thousands of devices.
The circuit boards for BlueTipz come in panels of eight, but what’s the best way to populate and solder five thousand devices in a reasonably short amount of time? [Bob]
hired a few students
from the local college to help him out in assembling all these devices. The plastic enclosures were made at a local plastics manufacturer, but the molds were made in China. The manufacturer needed to modify the molds a bit, but after a few days, [Bob] had five thousand enclosures ready to stuff full of electronics.
With the devices assembled, it’s time for programming, and that means building a programmer. [Bob] put all the guts for the device into a plastic box and 3D-printed a mount for the bare BlueTipz board. Put a board on the mount, press a button, and the tech now has a functioning device in his hands.
Besides manufacturing, there’s also a whole lot of testing that went into the design of BlueTipz. Because this is a device for ice fishing—a cold and potentially windy operating environment—[Bob]
built a test rig in a freezer
. The test rig triggers the device’s sensor, waits two minutes (the amount of time it would take for an ice fisherman to check the tip-up) and resets. They claim the battery life is good for 600 fish, and with this testing rig they were able to verify their calculated battery life with real-world data: without actually catching six hundred fish, of course.
Not only does [Bob] have a good bit of product development under his belt, he was also kind enough to go over the stuff everyday electronic design just doesn’t cover. Developing a product is something you can only learn by doing, and we’re glad [Bob] chose to share his experiences with us. | 16 | 8 | [
{
"comment_id": "1134052",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2013-12-14T22:06:47",
"content": "While I admire the effort put into the development of this it entirely misses the point of ice fishing which is to sit around in an ice hut and get drunk.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"r... | 1,760,376,366.636532 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/14/reverse-engineering-serial-ports/ | Reverse Engineering Serial Ports | Phillip Ryals | [
"classic hacks",
"hardware"
] | [
"reverse engineer",
"serial port"
] | Can you spot the serial port in the pic above? You can probably see the potential pads, but how do you figure out which ones to connect to? [Craig] over at devttys0 put together
an excellent tutorial on how to find serial ports
. Using some extreme close-ups, [Craig] guides us through his thought process as he examines a board. He discusses some of the basics every hobbyist should know, such as how to make an educated guess about which ports are ground and VCC. He also explains the process to guessing the transmit/receive pins, although that is less straightforward.
Once you’ve identified the pins, you need to actually communicate with the device. Although there’s no easy way to guess the data, parity, and stop bits except for using the standard 8N1 and hoping for the best, [Craig] simplifies the process a bit with some software that helps to
quickly identify the baud rate
. Hopefully you’ll share [Craig’s] good fortune if you reach this point, greeted by boot messages that allow you further access. | 13 | 9 | [
{
"comment_id": "1133862",
"author": "srfdghtygfd",
"timestamp": "2013-12-14T18:16:09",
"content": "Ahhhh, Westell FIOS modems…complete POS’s and by-and-large incompatible with a lot of Apple devices. Because apparently properly implementing 802.11 is “hard.”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,... | 1,760,376,367.214775 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/14/fubarino-contest-simon-says-hackaday/ | Fubarino Contest: Simon Says Hackaday | Brian Benchoff | [
"contests"
] | [
"fubarino-contest",
"simon"
] | When [Scott] saw
our announcement of a contest to win a Fubarino
, he had the remarkable insight that designing new hardware wasn’t required. Instead, he took a Simon soldering kit and
added a Hackaday easter egg
that beeps our favorite URL in Morse code.
[Scott]’s entry began with a
Sparkfun Simon Says Soldering Kit
. It’s a great kit featuring an ATMega328, four buttons and LEDs, and a speaker. Stock, this board comes programmed with a run-of-the-mill Simon game, but it also includes a serial bootloader and a set of serial pins for reprogramming.
The new firmware for [Scott]’s Simon uses Morse code for ‘hackaday.com’ to determine the time in between the button flashes for each round. Compared to the old-school Simon toy from the 70s, [Scott’s] version seems just slightly more difficult; the game is basically the same, but trying to remember the pattern when the buttons don’t light up in a regular pattern is more challenging than usual.
Because [Scott] isn’t the greatest at Simon, he added another method to generate the full Morse for ‘hackaday.com’. While pressing one button starts a new game, holding down two buttons simultaneously will write out the full Morse of ‘hackaday.com’ on the upper left-hand button: a great easter egg that also adds some difficulty to a classic game.
This is an entry in
the Fubarino Contest
. Submit your entry before 12/19/13 for a chance at one of the 20
Fubarino SD boards
which Microchip has put up as prizes! | 7 | 4 | [
{
"comment_id": "1133854",
"author": "supershwa",
"timestamp": "2013-12-14T18:02:02",
"content": "These animated GIFs you guys have been using are making my Netvibes homepage look like a cheaply lit Christmas tree…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id... | 1,760,376,366.702419 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/15/diy-hearing-aid/ | DIY Hearing Aid | Eric Evenchick | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"digital audio hacks"
] | [
"arduino",
"hearing aid",
"ltc6910",
"signal processing"
] | Hearing aids are expensive little devices, typically costing a few thousand dollars each. They need to be highly integrated to fit in the ear, while still providing signal processing to ensure good audio quality.
This
DIY hearing aid
does some intelligent signal processing. It uses an electret to capture audio, then uses a pre-amplifier to increase the gain 100 times. The next stage consists of four filters, dividing the input signal by frequency into four parts. These are passed into four
LTC6910
programmable gain amplifiers, which allow an Arduino to control the gain of each channel. The LTC6910 takes 3 digital inputs that are used to set the gain value.
To determine which gain to use for each frequency band, the Arduino needs to know how much power is in each band. This could be done using a Fast Fourier Transform, but that would require quite a bit of processing power. Instead, an
envelope detector
averages the signal, which can be read by an analog input on the Arduino. Using this information, the hearing aid can boost specific frequencies when it detects conversation.
This hearing aid won’t quite fit in your ear, but there is a lot of interesting signal processing going on. The schematic, Arduino source code, and a MATLAB simulation are provided. | 14 | 4 | [
{
"comment_id": "1135358",
"author": "password",
"timestamp": "2013-12-16T06:42:59",
"content": "This is onather one of those projects that could have done without the ‘duino because a envelop detector can be made of just a diode , cap and resistor. I’m just gonna assume this is what the creator had... | 1,760,376,367.630245 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/15/ledmas-tree/ | LEDmas Tree | James Hobson | [
"Holiday Hacks"
] | [
"christmas tree",
"LED christmas tree",
"led tree"
] | [Nick] is a bit of an LED fanatic. So when his boss asked him to help make an LED Christmas tree for work,
he jumped at the opportunity!
It’s a beautiful build, making use of laser(?) cut plexiglass disks, wooden “trunks” made using a lathe, and a TON of RGB LEDs. Unfortunately—because it turned out so nice—the company is thinking of selling it as a product next year, so [Nick] isn’t allowed to divulge much more information behind the build. Regardless, it looks fantastic , and we’re sure you could hack your own.
He was allowed to take a video of it though, so check it out after the break! He also has a ton of other very cool LED projects on his blog at
www.hownottoengineer.com
Now, if that’s not big enough for you, you should take a look at this giant outdoor Christmas tree that sports
2000 waterproof RGB LEDs! | 11 | 9 | [
{
"comment_id": "1135245",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2013-12-16T03:47:12",
"content": "Oooooooo, pretty!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1135256",
"author": "Da_Shroom66",
"timestamp": "2013-12-16T04:10:53",
"content": ":-... | 1,760,376,366.96213 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/15/hackaday-links-december-15-2013/ | Hackaday Links: December 15, 2013 | Mike Szczys | [
"Hackaday links"
] | [
"cydia",
"digital compass",
"dioder",
"hdmi",
"hinges",
"qr code",
"super pixel bros"
] | Want to get a hold of a gaming controller attachment for iOS at a rock bottom price? [Dark GOD] learned that Amazon is closing out the Gameloft DUO Gamer hardware for $6 because the hardware is no longer supported by the operating system. He shows
how to make it work using a Cydia app
. [Thanks ProMan]
[Frank Zhao] had a cheap HDMI switch which had problems with a sagging power rail. His solution was to
hack in a USB port to inject some power
.
This security hack uses an Arduino with LCD screen to display a QR code. Scan it with an Android device and you no longer need keys! Here’s
the code repo
and a
demo video
.
It’s interesting to see how many places the WS28xx pixels are popping up. Here’s a crowdfunding campaign that uses
a matrix of the pixels as a portable gaming display
. Look somewhat familiar? We’ve seen [Retro Brad’s]
earlier hardware
(made to play Super Pixel Bros.) that used an LED module instead. This is probably a lot easier to drive since it uses serial data instead of multiplexing.
Next is some robot building inspiration. [IronJungle] has been hard at work building a rover that
uses compass bearings for navigation
.
We liked seeing
a drop-in replacment uC
for Ikea Dioder projects, but if you need more power under the hood,
take command of those colored lights with a Raspberry Pi
.
Those lucky enough to have access to a laser cutter will find
this Inkscape extension for living hinges
useful.
Finally,
POTUS threw down the gauntlet
, encouraging everyone to learn how to program by pointing them toward
the Hour of Code program
. We’ve long thought that everyone should have some level of coding education. Do you agree with us? Of course, getting something like this into schools is a monumental challenge, so it’s nice to see extra-curricular offerings. We also believe that Hackerspaces are among the best driving forces for getting kids a tech education. [via
Adafruit
] | 8 | 7 | [
{
"comment_id": "1135193",
"author": "XOIIO",
"timestamp": "2013-12-16T01:44:40",
"content": "Um, I think that android security hack is linked to the wrong video.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1135207",
"author": "HaxtorMoogle",
"times... | 1,760,376,367.159176 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/15/build-an-in-line-network-bandwidth-monitor/ | Build An In Line Network Bandwidth Monitor | Adam Fabio | [
"internet hacks"
] | [
"Bandwidth (computing)",
"Data Communications",
"ethernet",
"network",
"Network interface controller"
] | [Kurt] likes to know what’s going on with his network. He already uses bandwidth checking software on his DD-WRT capable router, but he wanted a second opinion. So
he built his own network monitor.
[Kurt] started by
building a passive Ethernet tap
. He then needed a network interface chip that would serve his purposes. The common Wiznet chips used with Arduinos didn’t allow enough manipulation of raw packet data, so he switched to a
Microchip ENC624J600
(PDF). The Microchip controller allowed him to count the bytes in the raw Ethernet packets.
With the Ethernet interface complete, [Kurt] turned his attention to a microcontroller to run the show. He started with an Arduino, but the lack of debugging quickly sent him to an Atmega128 in Atmel Studio. After getting the basic circuit working, [Kurt] switched over to a PIC24F chip. With data finally coming out of the circuit, he was able to tell that his original back-of-the-napkin calculations for bandwidth were wrong. [Kurt] created a PCB to hold the microcontroller, then wrote a Python program to plot the data output from his circuit. The bandwidth plot matched up well with the plot from DD-WRT. Now he just needs a
giant LED matrix
to show off his current network stats! | 25 | 12 | [
{
"comment_id": "1135038",
"author": "tekkieneet",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T21:26:01",
"content": "Thanks for the heads up for this ENC624J600 (10/100) chip.This is an interesting way of looking at the stats, he would only geteither the transmitted or the received stats as he could only have 1receiv... | 1,760,376,367.320736 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/15/cast-a-shadow-play-a-note/ | Cast A Shadow, Play A Note | Kristina Panos | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"Musical Hacks"
] | [
"arduino",
"music"
] | Looking for a way to entertain friends and family this holiday season? Look no further than
the Arduino-powered Photocell Piano
. [Asahillis] has posted this Instructable for building a 6-note musical command center.
The piano uses photoresistors to turn each note on when the player runs their hand over it. Notes can be tuned independently using potentiometers on the front of the box. The hack uses two circuits: one to generate the tones, and a second to mix them. [Asahillis] adapted
[Forest Mims III]’s
timeless schematics for the 555 Tone Maker and the 741 Audio Mixer to create his Photocell Piano.
When the instrument is powered on, the code takes a 5-second reading of the ambient light, and sets a threshold based on its findings. Afterward, the first note will sound, indicating the piano is ready to be played. Each note has its own if-else statement that tells it to sound when its corresponding photoresistor reaches a value below the set threshold (when the player casts a shadow).
There’s a demo video included in the guide but we couldn’t embed it here.
Check out the demo video after the break.
If you prefer to rock out with your lights out, there’s always
this impressive laser harp
. | 3 | 2 | [
{
"comment_id": "1135074",
"author": "Ginsublade",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T22:35:24",
"content": "Vampires can’t play this?????",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1135118",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T23:37... | 1,760,376,367.260266 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/15/fubarino-contest-a-shifter-with-an-easter-egg/ | Fubarino Contest: A Shifter With An Easter Egg | Brian Benchoff | [
"contests"
] | [
"fubarino-contest"
] | A few
months
years ago [Wes] shared a project of his
on the Hackaday Forums
(yes, we do have a forum and you should check it out). He created a shifter for some sim racing, greatly improving on any system that uses a keyboard.
The shifter is made out of some scrap wood, a cutting board cut with an H-gate shape, and a few arcade microswitches. A giant bolt locks into a few cabinet clasps for each gear position, and the set of microswitches connected to a USB game pad tell [Wes’s] virtual car what gear he should be in.
It’s a great build, but because this is an entry for our
Fubarino contest
, [Wes] needed to put an easter egg with the Hackaday URL in there somewhere. To solve this problem, [Wes]
upgraded the electronics
with a Teensy 2.0. When the gears are shifted into 1st, 3rd, 3rd, and 7th, the Teensy blinks the URL in Morse and opens up a web browser that loads up Hackaday.
Not only is it a great build, it’s also a very, very subtle easter egg for our favorite website. Demo of the egg below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wYXNxYqcIk
This is an entry in
the Fubarino Contest
. Submit your entry before 12/19/13 for a chance at one of the 20
Fubarino SD boards
which Microchip has put up as prizes! | 9 | 4 | [
{
"comment_id": "1134748",
"author": "Alex",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T15:29:22",
"content": "Is the cabinet clasp a common part of home-made gear shift mechanisms, or was that Wes’s own ingenuity? Either way that is a pretty clever idea. Looks like the whole build is pretty simple and effective.",
... | 1,760,376,369.675634 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/15/raspberry-pi-wall-calendar/ | Raspberry Pi Wall Calendar | James Hobson | [
"home hacks"
] | [
"google calendar",
"instructable",
"raspberry pi",
"raspberry pi calendar"
] | Do you let Google know every aspect of your personal and social life? Do you have a spare LCD monitor kicking around? Why not make your own
Raspberry Pi Wall Calendar?
[Alex] recently bought his first home (congratulations!), which happened to have a TV wall mount in the kitchen. Personally, we don’t think TVs belong in the kitchen, and neither did [Alex]. Not wanting to tear the mount out of the wall (and thus require home renovations too soon), he devised a clever solution: why not make a digital calendar?
[Alex] connected a Raspberry Pi model B to the LCD monitor, which provides convenient access to his Google Calendar. His Instructable is both meticulous and approachable, so novice hackers should have no trouble replicating this build. The only improvement we can think to suggest is substituting a touchscreen LCD, which would allow him to interact with the schedule.
Whether you “let” Google know about your life— or it just knows—this is certainly a handy hack for the 21st century home! | 49 | 21 | [
{
"comment_id": "1134613",
"author": "jon",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T12:30:20",
"content": "I miss 4:3 displays.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1134998",
"author": "Anybodysguess",
"timestamp": "2013-12-15T20:36:21",
"... | 1,760,376,369.995675 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/21/fubarino-contest-persistence-of-vision-clock/ | Fubarino Contest: Persistence Of Vision Clock | Mike Szczys | [
"clock hacks",
"contests"
] | [
"16F628",
"fubarino-contest",
"persistence of vision",
"pic"
] | The best part of these contests is that we get people to actually show off what they’ve been working on! Check out the POV clock which was sent in by [Taciuc]. He doesn’t have a webpage for it, but he did send a video which you can see after the break.
The project is a home-etched PCB with a long row or surface mount LEDs. The board is spun by a stepper motor which takes a little while to stabilize. But once it does it’s a twirling package of awesomeness. A PIC 16F628 drives the device, with a separate RTC chip to keep time. There’s also an IR receiver to facilitate user control. Our URL is displayed on the clock face itself and we think it’s always shown. But there is an easter egg in the code itself. If you try to dump the firmware from the chip you’ll see our web address in the hex output. Here’s
his project archive
if you want to the HEX, ASM and DipTrace schematic.
This is an entry in
the Fubarino Contest
for a chance at one of the 20
Fubarino SD boards
which Microchip has put up as prizes! | 19 | 8 | [
{
"comment_id": "1141575",
"author": "netbeard",
"timestamp": "2013-12-21T21:37:22",
"content": "I would have made it display hackaday at 1:37pm (13:37)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1141607",
"author": "Timsie",
"timestamp": "2013-12-... | 1,760,376,369.502872 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/21/an-opensource-arduino-guitar-pedal/ | An Opensource Arduino Guitar Pedal | James Hobson | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"Musical Hacks"
] | [
"arduino guitar pedal",
"guitar pedal",
"guitar pedal hack",
"pedalshield"
] | If you’re a guitarist, or know a guitarist, you probably know just how many guitar effects there are out there — but what if you could
design your own effects?
[J Rodriguez] has just released his opensource Arduino guitar pedal shield, dubbed the pedalSHIELD. He designed it as a platform to learn about digital signal processing, effects, and synthesizers — without needing an in-depth knowledge of electronics or programming. It allows you to design your own effects in C/C++, or download from his
own library online.
Some of the downloadable presets include an octave pedal, reverb pedals, delay pedals, and even distortion pedals!
The pedal features three programmable potentiometers, two main switches, and the foot pedal switch. The shield plugs directly into an Arduino Due, and you can find all the schematics
here
and the parts list
here.
It was completely designed in
KiCad
which is an open source electronics CAD design suite.
Take a listen after the break to hear the pedal in action! | 25 | 13 | [
{
"comment_id": "1141454",
"author": "sqelch",
"timestamp": "2013-12-21T18:38:34",
"content": "queue arduino rage, lolepic sounds",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1141517",
"author": "mike",
"timestamp": "2013-12-21T20:01:25",
... | 1,760,376,369.906593 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/21/nespoise-a-nice-looking-nes-clone/ | NESPoise – A Nice Looking NES Clone | Mathieu Stephan | [
"handhelds hacks",
"Nintendo Hacks"
] | [
"arcade",
"nes",
"retrobit RES"
] | [Dave] tipped us about the
latest project he just finished
: a posable, desktop NES clone arcade machine. This idea came to be when its creator gathered a few bits and pieces he had lying around: an NES Retro Entertainment System (Retrobit RES, found for less than $25) and an arcade stick with its buttons. [Dave] then bought a 7″ car DVD screen (less than $40) and started a first standard arcade-looking design with
OpenSCAD
. As the first draft was relatively boring, he let it mature for a bit until he got another idea, shown in the picture above.
The final result is made of 3D printed PLA and varnished luaun plywood which gives the console a VCS style retro look. Many hours were required to 3D print the different parts using a Makerbot Replicator 2. [Dave] disassembled his Retrobit RES to layout its parts inside the case and also replaced the original voltage regulator with a 7805 on a big heatsink. This may be one of the best ‘nintendo’ hacks we have received over the years, but there have been
others that also take cartridges
. | 9 | 8 | [
{
"comment_id": "1141316",
"author": "Downing",
"timestamp": "2013-12-21T15:44:02",
"content": "Kinda looks like a cousin of Wall-E. Haha, great work man!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1141317",
"author": "The Unsafe Bit",
"timestamp":... | 1,760,376,369.849196 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/21/full-size-lego-car-can-hit-30kmh/ | Full-size Lego Car Can Hit 30km/h! | James Hobson | [
"Toy Hacks",
"Transportation Hacks"
] | [
"lego",
"lego car",
"superawesomemicroproject"
] | [Steve Sammartino] is a Melbourne entrepreneur, and he had an idea: could it be possible to design and make a functional
full-size Lego car?
He sent out a single tweet to try to crowd fund the project:
Anyone interested in investing $500-$1000 in a project which is awesome & a world first tweet me. Need about 20 participants…
#startup
Not one, not two, but
forty
Australians pledged money to start this crazy idea dubbed the
#SuperAwesomeMicroProject
. With the money raised, [Steve] and [Raul Oaida] purchased over 500,000 Lego pieces and began the build in Romania, where [Raul] lives.
Now before you get too excited, the car is not “fully” made out of Lego. It features real tires and some select load bearing elements. That being said, the
entire engine
is made completely out of Lego. It features four orbital engines utilizing a total of 256 pistons. The top speed they tested it to was about 20-30km/h — it might go faster, but they didn’t want to risk a catastrophic failure.
Since its completion (it took nearly 18 months to build), it’s been shipped back to a secret location in Melbourne, but the team has made an excellent video showcasing the project. Stick around after the break to see your childhood dreams come to life.
[via
Adafruit
] | 20 | 11 | [
{
"comment_id": "1141249",
"author": "Tom the Brat",
"timestamp": "2013-12-21T13:40:20",
"content": "That engine is just too cool!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1141275",
"author": "Paul",
"timestamp": "2013-12-21T14:24:49",
"conte... | 1,760,376,369.565492 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/21/fubarino-contest-hackaday-tells-you-youre-a-terrible-pilot/ | Fubarino Contest: Hackaday Tells You You’re A Terrible Pilot | Brian Benchoff | [
"contests"
] | [
"F3B",
"Fubarino",
"fubarino-contest",
"remote control",
"sailplane"
] | [Mikko] is in to flying F3B racers – remote control airplanes with a three meter wingspan. These races require the pilot to know how much time he has left, and when flying a remote controlled airplane to the edges of visual contact, it’s just not possible to look down and check a stopwatch.
To solve this problem, [Mikko] created a talking F3B timer to announce the flight time and how much time is left in 30 second increments. It’s based on a WTV020 audio module that plays audio from an SD card. Right now it’s just in the prototype phase,
but he does have some code and documentation online.
As for the easter egg, [Mikko] programmed his timer so that if the flight lasts
exactly
33 seconds (with millisecond resolution), the Hackaday URL is displayed on the Nokia LCD. We’re betting a flight time of 33 seconds would be highly correlated with a horrible malfunction and the loss of a thousand dollar airframe, so we’re more than happy to cheer [Mikko] up if he eventually sees this easter egg in the field.
Video of the talking timer speaking Finnish below, and a video showing off what these huge sailplanes can do
right here.
This is an entry in
the Fubarino Contest
for a chance at one of the 20
Fubarino SD boards
which Microchip has put up as prizes!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coJH7XpR0mU | 6 | 4 | [
{
"comment_id": "1141078",
"author": "santeri",
"timestamp": "2013-12-21T09:38:33",
"content": "Jei! Finland on hackaday again!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1141449",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2013-12-21T18:29:37",
"con... | 1,760,376,369.445788 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/20/darpa-robotics-challenge-trials-day-1/ | DARPA Robotics Challenge Trials Day 1 | Adam Fabio | [
"News",
"Robots Hacks"
] | [
"darpa",
"DARPA Robotic Challenge",
"Florida",
"Homestead-Miami Speedway",
"japan",
"robot",
"robotics"
] | Today was the first of two days of trials at the
DARPA Robotics challenge
at Homestead-Miami Speedway in Florida. Created after the
Japan’s Fukushima nuclear disaster
, The robotics challenge is designed to advance the state of the art of robotics. The trials range from driving a car to clearing a debris field, to cutting through a wall. Robots score points based on their performance in the trials. Much of the day was spent waiting for teams to prepare their robots. There were some exciting moments however, with one challenger falling through a
stacked cinder block wall.
Pictured above is Valkyrie from NASA
JPL
JSC.
We reported on Valkyrie earlier this month
. Arguably one of the better looking robots of the bunch, Valkyrie proved to be all show and no go today, failing to score any points in its day 1 trials. The day one lead went to Team Schaft, a new robot from Tokyo based startup company Schaft inc. Schaft scored 18 points in its first day. In second place is
the MIT team
with 12 points. Third place is currently held by
Team TRACLabs
with 9 points. All this can change tomorrow as the second day of trials take place. The live stream will be available from 8am to 7pm EST on
DARPA’
s robotics challenge page. | 16 | 7 | [
{
"comment_id": "1140895",
"author": "Jordan",
"timestamp": "2013-12-21T04:39:05",
"content": "Click link promising a robot falling through a wall, get an overly long eyefull of someone’s crotch and ass instead.>.>",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id... | 1,760,376,369.62616 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/20/hack-some-picks/ | Hack Some Picks | Marsh | [
"lockpicking hacks"
] | [
"hacksaw",
"lock picks",
"rotary tool"
] | You know you can
make your own lock picks out of cheapo carbon steel hacksaw blades
, right? So what if you’ve tripped over this hack on every website that also tells you to read and worship the
MIT Guide to Lock Picking
; ’tis the season to
pick
up a new hobby now that many of us have some extra holiday free time. Unlike the authentic hand-crafted macrame indoor hanging vertical tomato garden you bought for that girl you’re trying to impress, hacksaw blades won’t cut into your purchasing power. Also, believe it or not,
although
we
have
thirteen
picking
hacks
that
are
sitting
in
the
“lockpicking”
category
, this isn’t one of them.
Though the guide chose to use existing picks as a template, there are plenty
you can find online
. After tracing the pick, the next step is to secure the hacksaw blade and carve out the excess with a rotary tool, then grind down the edges to remove any sharp bits. We recommend that you’re careful not to get the blade too hot here or you’ll alter its crystalline structure: perhaps one of our blacksmith-savvy readers can better explain what you should aim for and avoid when working with carbon steel. As usual, wear the necessary safety headgear: your eyes are valuable and you’ll need them to watch the video after the break.
What do you think? Should we make an effort at reviving the Lock Picking category? We know a lot of hackerspaces have lock picking events if you want to get into the dark art. Help us get things rolling by
sending in tips
recapping those events, as well as anything else that fits this theme.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsHi90_cQfI&w=560&h=315] | 33 | 16 | [
{
"comment_id": "1140854",
"author": "george happy",
"timestamp": "2013-12-21T03:49:12",
"content": "Long as it dont get more than dull red should be ok. Dont try to cool down with water",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1140945",
"autho... | 1,760,376,369.750161 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/hacking-a-reader-for-medical-test-strips/ | Hacking A Reader For Medical Test Strips | Brian Benchoff | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"Medical Hacks"
] | [
"medical",
"medicine",
"test strip"
] | [Rahul] works at a startup that produces cutting edge diagnostic test cards. These simple cards can test for enzymes, antibodies, and diseases quickly and easily. For one test, this greatly speeds up the process of testing and diagnosis, but since these tests can now be administered en masse, health services the world over now have the problem of reading, categorizing, and logging thousands of these diagnostic test cards.
The normal solution to this problem is a dedicated card scanner, but these cost tens of thousands of dollars. At a 24-hour hackathon, [Rahul] decided to bring down the cost of the card scanners
by whipping up his own
, built from a CD drive and an Arduino.
The card [Rahul] used, an A1c card that tests for glucose bound to hemoglobin, has a few lines on the card that fluoresce with different intensify depending on the test results. This can be easily read with a photodiode connected to an Arduino. The mechanical part of the build consisted of an old CD drive with a 3D printed test strip adapter. Operation is very simple – just put the test strip in the test strip holder, press a button, and the results of the test are transmitted over Bluetooth.
Not only is [Rahul]’s build extremely simple, it’s also extremely useful and was enough to net him the ‘Most Innovative Project’ prize at the hackathon in his native Singapore. | 7 | 6 | [
{
"comment_id": "1133124",
"author": "dr. cryogen",
"timestamp": "2013-12-14T00:32:59",
"content": "Go Rahul! It’s nice to see medical folks doing things like this. So many devices are highly overpriced (*cough* “special lights for jaundice” *cough*) and not within reach in poorer parts of the world... | 1,760,376,369.798587 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/developed-on-hackaday-setting-up-the-projects-infrastructure/ | Developed On Hackaday: Setting Up The Project’s Infrastructure | Mathieu Stephan | [
"Hackaday Columns",
"hardware",
"News"
] | [
"developed on hackaday",
"encryption",
"harware development",
"mooltipass",
"password",
"smartcard"
] | We’re pretty sure that most of our readers already know it by now, but we’ll tell you anyway: the Hackaday community (writers
and
readers) is currently developing an
offline password keeper
. In the first post of our first DoH series, we introduced the project and called for contributors. In the comments section, we received very interesting feedback as well as many feature suggestions that we detailed in
our second write-up
. Finally, we organized a poll that allowed everyone to vote on the project’s name.
The results came in: the project’s name will be
mooltipass
. We originally had thought of ‘multipass’ but [asheets] informed us that Apple and Canon had both applied for this trademark. [Omegacs] then suggested ‘mooltipass’ as an alternative, which we loved even more. A few days ago we set up a
google group
which is already very active.
An often under-estimated side of a community driven project is its infrastructure and management. (How) can you manage dozens of motivated individuals from all over the globe to work on a common project? How can you keep the community informed of its latest developments?
As the Hackaday community is very comfortable with online tools, we chose:
github
to disseminate the mooltipass resources to the public, and for firmware/software development as well
dropbox
to share quickly-changing mechanical design files
trello
to discuss specific topics and relate our current progress
google groups
for general discussion
Github was the obvious choice given that it is one of the most used online repositories out there. It allows contributors to keep track of the file changes and ensures they have the latest version of the mooltipass project. Given the mechanical development process is quite different from developing firmware, contributors in charge of the case design opted for Dropbox. Here is an overview of the Trello board we setup:
Trello was suggested by [Zach] (thanks!). It is free, very easy to understand and convenient for project management (from what we can see at the moment). We took the habit of having our development related discussions in a dedicated mailing list, then move the specific points to Trello.
Unfortunately the firmware guys have still to wait for the first prototypes to arrive to start coding. Next week on Hackaday we’ll detail the first version of the hardware, currently being reviewed in our
google group
. Depending on the feedback we get, the v2 may be very different. It’s still not too late if you want to get involved in the project (if you aren’t a firmware developer!), so you can contact us at mathieu[at]hackaday[dot]com. | 22 | 8 | [
{
"comment_id": "1132843",
"author": "Jamie B.",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T19:07:11",
"content": "I’ve been looking for several things in a password manager:1. Ability to cryptographically secure the database without use of a password (eg, smart card): Passwords are becoming a weak form of security.2... | 1,760,376,370.107334 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/portable-musical-stairs/ | Portable Musical Stairs | James Hobson | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"Musical Hacks"
] | [
"makeymakey"
] | [Amir] recently finished a pretty cool project —
Portable Musical Stairs!
He designed and built it so it could be temporarily installed in schools for musical therapy sessions with autistic children — a fun activity for all ages!
The system utilizes lasers and photo sensors that come with a built in digital output with a sensitivity potentiometer, which makes it super easy for the Arduino Leonardo to interpret. The reason they are using 2 by 4’s for the system is because of the width of the stairs. At 1.75m across, a laser misaligned by only 1 degree results in it being about 3cm off!
On the software end of things, the Arduino acts as a HID input to the computer to create the sounds. [Amir] has put together a free sound sampler on his website
makeysoundy.com
, and we must say, it’s pretty fun! You can assign notes to different keys, which makes it super easy to make a similar project to this!
Stick around after the break to see the stairs in action!
While it’s a great project, maybe [Amir] should check out the
musical stairs
some students at Hack Princeton came up with last month! | 8 | 6 | [
{
"comment_id": "1132738",
"author": "j9brown",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T17:24:24",
"content": "I wonder whether this could be built as a collection of individual project boxes that are just stuck to the wall adjacent the stair. Use a laser and photocell to spot reflections as a person interrupts a... | 1,760,376,370.161943 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/raspi-notifies-you-of-space-station-passes/ | Raspi Notifies You Of Space Station Passes | Brian Benchoff | [
"Raspberry Pi"
] | [
"iss",
"raspberry pi",
"space station"
] | A few
months
years ago, [Liam] funded a Kickstarter for a small desk toy that would tell him when the International Space Station was overhead. [Liam] got a little tired of waiting,
so he decided to build his own
with a Raspberry Pi and an astronomical computation Python library.
The impressive part of this build is computing where an orbiting object is in the sky given the ISS’ orbital elements. For this, [Liam] is using
PiEphem
, a library that can compute the positions of the sun, moon, planets, asteroids, and Earth-orbiting satellites given a location and a time. Since the
ISS orbital elements
change every so often, his software is set up to download an update every week or so.
[Liam]
developed a few versions
of his space station detector, each with a different display. The simplest uses a few LEDs, either through a
LedBorg
,
Blinkstick
, or PiGlow to serve as a notification of when the ISS is overhead. Two more complicated versions use an LCD display or LED matrix to signal when the next ISS pass will occur.
Video demo below. | 23 | 12 | [
{
"comment_id": "1132607",
"author": "jcwren",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T15:06:01",
"content": "You know what would be really cool? Having a globe that can roll in two axis, and positioning it so that a fixed ISS indicator is over the spot where it currently is.There’s dozens of ways to do it this, b... | 1,760,376,370.354138 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/putting-a-mac-plus-on-the-internet/ | Putting A Mac Plus On The Internet | Brian Benchoff | [
"classic hacks",
"Mac Hacks"
] | [
"Mac Plus",
"macintosh",
"raspberry pi",
"retrocomputing"
] | [Jeff] has a Mac Plus, an 8 MHz computer with 4 MB of RAM and a 512×342 1-bit screen. It was his first ‘real’ computer, and like those guys that take Model A Fords out for a Sunday drive,
[Jeff] decided to put this old box on the Internet.
A Plus has a few options to get on the Internet. The best, but most expensive, is a SCSI to Ethernet computer. For a somewhat slower connections, a PowerPC mac can be used as an Ethernet to Localtalk (the Macintosh serial port networking protocol) bridge. Lacking either of those pieces of hardware, [Jeff] decided to use a Raspberry Pi. The Pi does the heavy lifting, and a handful of serial adapters and voltage converters turns the Pi into something that can talk to the Plus’ serial port.
Even with the MacTCP stack and the MacWeb browser, there are still some things this ancient computer couldn’t do. HTTPS hadn’t been invented until 1994, cookies are just a pain, and CSS is right out. This means modern websites (except, of course, the
Hackaday retro edition
) simply won’t render properly. To fix this issue, [Jeff]’s friend [Tyler] came up with a Python script using Requests, Beautiful Soup, and Flask to strip out all the Web 2.0 cruft, handle the cookies, and to get rid of SSL.
The end result is a Mac Plus with 4 Megabytes of RAM on the Internet, able to pull up Wikipedia and Hacker News. It isn’t fast by any means – in the video below, it takes about five minutes to pull up the front page of Hacker News – but it
is
a 27-year-old computer on the Internet. | 27 | 13 | [
{
"comment_id": "1132530",
"author": "genki",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T13:11:09",
"content": "Ahhh the memories. Memory upgrade was a pain in the butt since you had to cut resistor to change from 2 slots to 4 slots and/or change from 256K memory sticks to 1MB memory sticks.I still have mine somewhe... | 1,760,376,370.238829 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/fubarino-contest-vfd-clock/ | Fubarino Contest: VFD Clock | Brian Benchoff | [
"clock hacks",
"contests"
] | [
"fubarino-contest"
] | The entries for
our Fubarino contest
are slowly yet surely coming in. [James] already had an awesome VFD clock under his belt, and figured adding a Hackaday easter egg to his project would be simple enough.
[James’] clock is based on the TI Stellaris LaunchPad with six beautiful seven-segment VFD display tubes. The clock’s time is controlled by a DS1307 RTC chip, and a small switch-mode power supply controlled by the Stellaris boosts the power from 5 Volts to 50 Volts for the tubes. The tubes are controlled with a Max6921 VFD driver chip.
The easter egg for this project – displaying the Hackaday URL – is only shown when you power up the clock when the seconds display shows 37. That’s extremely subtle for an easter egg and just the way we like it.
All the code for [James]’ project is
up on GitHub
along with the designs for the tube clock’s enclosure. Really an awesome project, and a great way for [James] to earn himself a Fubarino.
What are you waiting for? We still haven’t passed twenty entries which means your chances of winning are pretty good!
The is an entry in
the Fubarino Contest
. Submit your entry before 12/19/13 for a chance at one of the 20
Fubarino SD boards
which Microchip has put up as prizes! | 3 | 2 | [
{
"comment_id": "1132519",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T12:47:16",
"content": "For a Swede the lead image for this post is perfect as “hackad” is Swedish for “hacked” :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1132635",
"author": ... | 1,760,376,370.285869 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/over-engineered-kegerator-is-glorious/ | Over Engineered Kegerator Is Glorious | Adam Fabio | [
"Beer Hacks"
] | [
"chest freezer",
"freezer",
"keg",
"kegerator",
"tap"
] | When [Joey]
decided to build a kegerator
, he didn’t skimp. No commercial unit or simple kit would do. [Joey] wanted complete temperature monitoring, with a tap on the kegerator itself and a cooled tap remotely mounted at his bar. He started with a box freezer, which was a bit short for his purposes. Not a problem, as [Joey] cut an extended collar for the freezer from HDPE on his shopbot. The new collar gives mounting points for the beer lines, gas lines, as well as all the electronics.
Temperature control is handled by a commercial controller, however temperature monitoring is another thing altogether. An Arduino sits in a custom aluminum case on the outside of the kegerator. The Arduino reports temperature, beer type and also controls the cooling system for the beer lines. The cooling system alone is incredible. [Joey] designed everything in CAD and cut the parts out on his shopbot. Two fans sit in an aluminum air box. One fan is used to push cold air out from the freezer around the beer line. A second fan pulls air back in, keeping the kegerator/line/tap air system a (relatively) closed loop. The entire line set is insulated with 2″ fiberglass flex duct.
Temperature data and trend graphs can be monitored on the web, and [Joey] is using a Raspberry Pi to create a wall mounted status screen for his bar room. We love this build! [Joey] we’d buy you a beer, but it seems like you’ve got that covered already! | 12 | 5 | [
{
"comment_id": "1132529",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T13:07:30",
"content": "It’s not clear the advantages to his Rube-Goldberg setup over a simple closed kegerator that doesnt move air around. Does it cook a keg faster? is the beer kept at a perfect temperature? I can not see... | 1,760,376,370.696714 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/14/battlebots-in-the-sky/ | Battlebots In The Sky | Mike Szczys | [
"drone hacks",
"Hackerspaces"
] | [
"battlebots",
"lvl1",
"quacc"
] | Here’s one of those ideas that makes us wonder: “Why didn’t we come up with that?” The LVL1 in Louisville, Kentucky is hosting an event they call
the Quadcopter Ultimate Aerial Combat Competition
(QUACC). Kudos to them on coming up with a very professional name for the event. At risk of drawing cease-and-desist orders from
the defunct TV program
, we’ll always think of this as Battlebots in the Sky. (Lawyers: please don’t make us take that down… it’s an homage to the awesomeness that was at least the first few seasons of the show).
So why are we publicizing local events on Hackaday? It’s not the event, but the
idea
that’s spectacularly worth sharing! You’ve got to check out their contest rules as well as the Q&A list. Registration is closed, but the lucky ones who claimed a spot for the low price of $40 will be issued a regulation quadcopter today. They have a week to play around with it, testing out different ideas for disabling their enemy. A match ends when either one competitor defeats the other, or when a competitor’s battery runs dry. A new battery is the issued to the winner for use in the next round.
We’d love to hear your ideas for weaponizing (or adding countermeasures to) these delicate, lightweight aircraft. Aerosol accelerant and a BBQ igniter? How about shielding and a type of EMP, or some
other system that will disrupt controller commands
of your opponent? Obviously if you launch a similar competition at your hackerspace we want to hear about it!
[Thanks Gerrit] | 50 | 25 | [
{
"comment_id": "1133616",
"author": "ameyring",
"timestamp": "2013-12-14T12:29:16",
"content": "It’s nice that your admission allows you to borrow a quadcopter so everyone can participate for a reasonable fee. These will be good events for hackerspaces to host to get kids interested in trying out R... | 1,760,376,370.823931 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/14/wii-nunchuck-controlled-tetris-on-a-raspberry-pi/ | Wii Nunchuck-Controlled Tetris On A Raspberry Pi | Phillip Ryals | [
"Raspberry Pi"
] | [
"4x7",
"8x8",
"i2c",
"tetris"
] | [Vince] teaches an Embedded Systems class at the University of Maine, and some of his students were working on video games for their finals. He decided to
“test the hardware”
that the students were using by putting two 8×8 displays, one 4×7 segment display, and a Wii Nunchuck on the I2C bus. He then wrote a version of
Tetris
that accepts trigger presses and accelerometer input for control. Judging by the video (embedded after the break), the Raspberry Pi runs the game without issue. The bus is, of course, more than capable of handling everything.
Unfortunately, [Vincent] had some trouble getting the controls just right. Sometimes dropping a piece can cause the next to drop too quickly, and the accelerometer control seems a bit too sensitive. We imagine using the joystick for rotation and adding some strategic pauses in the game could help. He graciously released the
source code for the project
, so maybe we’ll see some embracing and extending in the near future. | 1 | 1 | [
{
"comment_id": "1133624",
"author": "ameyring",
"timestamp": "2013-12-14T12:40:09",
"content": "A pause after a piece reaches the bottom is good. Could also wait until the nunchuck is horizontal (or the button is pressed) before proceeding with a new piece.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
... | 1,760,376,370.736476 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/usbxlater-for-ps4-keyboard-and-mouse-action/ | UsbXlater For PS4 Keyboard And Mouse Action | Brian Benchoff | [
"Playstation Hacks",
"Tool Hacks"
] | [
"playstation 4",
"ps4",
"usb",
"usb device",
"usb host"
] | [Frank Zhao]—an awesome guy, an inadvertent Hackaday contributor, and an Adafrut fellow—has come up with a device to use a keyboard and mouse with Playstation 4 games.
He calls it the UsbXlater
, and even if [Frank] can’t get it working with his PS4, it’s still going to be an awesome tool.
On the board are two USB ports and an STM32F2 microcontroller. The micro provides a USB host interface and a USB device interface, enabling it to translate mouse movements and keystrokes into something a PS4 can understand. While this project was originally designed to use a keyboard and mouse on [Frank]’s shiny new PS4, it’s not quite working just yet. He’s looking for a few gamer/dev folks to help him suss out the communication between a keyboard/mouse, the UsbXlater, and a PS4.
Of course, even if this device is never used for what it’s designed for, it’s still a very, very interesting tool. With two USB ports, the UsbXlater could act as a signal generator for USB devices and hosts, analyze USB traffic, or provide other applications that haven’t even been thought of yet.
[Frank] is hitting his head against the wall trying to figure out the PS4 protocol, so if you have some USB skills, feel free to hit him up for a blank PCB, though preference falls to people who will game with it and to those with a USB traffic analyzer. If you lack the skills for USB development, [Frank] is still looking for a better name for his device. | 20 | 10 | [
{
"comment_id": "1133430",
"author": "mrasmus",
"timestamp": "2013-12-14T07:51:01",
"content": "It’s not just a protocol thing; my understanding (which I’ve gleaned from the people who are trying to make boards that support the new consoles out of the box, and having trouble) is that Sony went with ... | 1,760,376,370.642197 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/flying-spaghetti-monster-display/ | Flying Spaghetti Monster Display | James Hobson | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"LED Hacks"
] | [
"anthony liekens",
"Flying Spaghetti Monster",
"FSM",
"Spaghetti Monster"
] | [Anthony Liekens], one of our favorite hackers from Belgium, recently completed this large (and awesome!)
Flying Spaghetti Monster LED display!
With so many different holidays in December, [Anthony] decided he wanted his family to celebrate a slightly less traditional deity. The body is a massive 4′ by 8′ wooden board that we think [Anthony] cut out by hand, with a total of 300 RGB LEDs driven by an Arduino. Chicken wire mesh provides support for the LEDs in the FSM’s mouth and eyes. [Anthony] built everything in his very own backyard hackerspace called the
Open Garage
, which is a fantastic neighborhood hackerspace (and we should know—we stayed at his place during our
European Hackerspace Tour!
)
[Anthony] has a bunch of videos showing off the display on his personal
YouTube channel
, but stick around after the break for a quick sample that features the Flying Spaghetti Monster in the front window of his home.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkHTw7MGfVQ | 91 | 16 | [
{
"comment_id": "1133327",
"author": "Corrosive",
"timestamp": "2013-12-14T05:08:50",
"content": "XD I love it, though do that in the USA and I have a feeling you’d have people picketing in front of your house.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "... | 1,760,376,371.249553 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/arduino-controlled-beer-brewing-machine/ | Arduino Controlled Beer Brewing Machine! | James Hobson | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"Beer Hacks"
] | [
"beer brewing machine",
"homebrew"
] | [the_meatloaf] just put the final touches on his
fully automated beer brewing machine using an Arduino.
The project was part of his computer engineering degree, and it took [the_meatloaf] and two mechanical engineer friends a year to design and build the entire system from scratch. An Arduino Mega with a 4-button interface allows you to program, save, load, rename, and run up to 26 different recipes saved to the EEPROM.
An automated system like this removes most of the guesswork from an otherwise complex brewing process. The machine starts by heating the water in the first keg using a 2000W heating element, after which the water transfers into the mash vessel via servo valves, where it’s stirred by a mixing motor. The machine then drains the wort (the resulting liquid after mashing) and sparges (adds more water to the mash tun) the grains as programmed:
thanks, [Chris,] for clarification!
The wort is brought to a boil for the programmed amount of time, while a servo-controlled “hopper” automatically adds the hops. Finally, a counter-flow heat exchanger rapidly cools the solution to room temperature using ice water, then dispenses the solution for fermentation.
Though [the_meatloaf’s] biggest project to date was quite the accomplishment, he unfortunately won’t get to enjoy it. The sponsors who covered the $1000 budget reclaimed the machine. Drat.
[via
Reddit
] | 12 | 7 | [
{
"comment_id": "1133248",
"author": "theschlem",
"timestamp": "2013-12-14T03:06:26",
"content": "The 2nd worst kind of sponsorship. Brew free or die thirsty!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1133303",
"author": "Sven",
"timestamp": "2013... | 1,760,376,370.875777 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/3d-printed-solderless-circuits/ | 3D Printed, Solderless Circuits | James Hobson | [
"3d Printer hacks"
] | [
"3d printed circuits",
"Printed Circuit Board",
"solderless circuits"
] | If you’re looking for yet another alternative to etching your own PCBs, then check out this new
Instructable
on 3D printing test circuits!
[Mikey] decided to try out this method when he needed a small board prototype. He designed the perfboard to have a standard thickness—only 1/16th thick (~1.6mm)—with thin, recessed channels on one side and through holes on the other. [Mikey’s] circuit board allows you to stuff your components in, hold them down with a piece of tape, and then fill the channels with some kind of conductive material. In this example he’s used a highly conductive paint.
This 3D printed option probably won’t suit all your circuit-building needs, but it could provide an excellent shortcut for your next hack! As always, there’s a video after the break.
Unlike printing your
PCBs on a regular inkjet printer
, buying a
Kickstarter robot PCB printer
,
etching your own
, or
modifying your 3D printer to extrude solder,
this hack is probably the easiest method you can use—assuming you have the skills to make the 3D model and have access to a 3D printer…
[Thanks Barry!] | 47 | 15 | [
{
"comment_id": "1133194",
"author": "simcop2387",
"timestamp": "2013-12-14T01:57:15",
"content": "I wonder if you could pour in some fields metal to do the filling with a better conductivity. might need a different plastic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"c... | 1,760,376,370.968713 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/13/roboxotica-barbot-festival-in-vienna/ | Roboxotica (Barbot Festival In Vienna) | James Hobson | [
"cooking hacks",
"Misc Hacks"
] | [
"barbot",
"minecraft",
"minecraft cocktailbot",
"roboexotica"
] | Just this past week was this year’s
Roboexotica 2013!
The annual event was the world’s first and is perhaps the finest festival of cocktail serving robotics out there!
Founded 15 years ago in San Francisco,
Roboexotica
brings together scientists, hackers, and artists from all around the world to build the most awesome drink dispensing technologies. It’s also an opportunity to discuss innovation, science fiction, and the world of robotics to come — after utilizing some of the robots of course!
The photo above is of one of the popular bots from this year — it’s called the
Minecraft Cocktailbot
. It dispenses the liquor out of its floppy drive, but only when you control it from inside a game of Minecraft!
More of the barbots present at Roboxotica can be found on the
main site.
We think our second favorite is the Bunnybot. It defecates peanuts — the mightiest of all in pellet-form bar food.
Stick around after the break to see the Minecraft Cocktailbot in action!
So which was better?
Barbot 2013
, or Roboexotica 2013? | 9 | 8 | [
{
"comment_id": "1133198",
"author": "aztraph",
"timestamp": "2013-12-14T02:00:21",
"content": "I guess one WOULD need a cocktail to play Minecraft for any length of time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1133440",
"author": "ERROR_user... | 1,760,376,371.021122 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/robot-battle-for-the-big-leagues-valkyrie-and-the-darpa-challenge/ | Robot Battle For The Big Leagues: Valkyrie And The DARPA Challenge | Marsh | [
"Robots Hacks"
] | [
"autonomous robot",
"darpa",
"nasa"
] | Even though NASA’s Johnson Space Center’s
impressive build for the upcoming DARPA Robotics Challenge
is one of many entries, it has to be one of the coolest. The gang at IEEE Spectrum got a sneak peak of the robot dubbed “Valkyrie”, which at 1.9m and 125kg boasts 44 degrees of freedom while managing to look like a finished product ready to roll off the shelf. We can expect to see other custom robots at the challenge, but a number of teams will compete with a Boston Dynamics Atlas Robot, which we’ve covered a
couple
times
this year.
A few readers are probably polishing their pitchforks in anticipation of shouting “Not a hack!” but before you do,
take a look at the tasks
for the robots in this challenge and consider how new this territory is. To that end, the NASA JSC crew seem to have prepared for resolving catastrophes, even if it means throwing together a solution. They’ve designed the limbs for quick removal and even
reversibility
: the arms are identical and only slight adjustments are required to turn a left arm into a right. Unlike the Atlas, which requires a tether, Valkyrie is battery-operated, and it can run for around an hour before someone needs to crack open the torso and swap in a new one,
Iron Man
film
–
style.
The team was also determined to make Valkyrie seem more human, so they added a soft fabric layer to serve as a kind of clothing. According to IEEE Spectrum, it’s even getting custom made footwear from DC Shoes.There are some utilitarian compromises, though: Valkyrie has adopted a shortcut taken by time-constrained animators in many a cartoon, choosing three fingers per hand instead of four. Make sure you watch the video after the break for a closer look. | 30 | 13 | [
{
"comment_id": "1131475",
"author": "lmn",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T17:16:11",
"content": "Clone Trooper!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1131484",
"author": "EMeeson",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T17:24:23",
"content": "C... | 1,760,376,371.340339 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/open-your-hackerspace-door-with-a-phone-call/ | Open Your Hackerspace Door With A Phone Call | Marsh | [
"Cellphone Hacks",
"Hackerspaces",
"Microcontrollers"
] | [
"access control",
"automated door lock",
"eeprom",
"gsm",
"PIC microcontroller"
] | [Mário] sent us a tip detailing the
access control system he and his friends built
for the
eLab Hackerspace
in Faro, Portugal. The space is located in the University of Algarve’s Institute of Engineering, which meant the group couldn’t exactly bore some holes through campus property and needed a clever solution to provide 24/7 access to members.
[Mário] quickly ruled out more advanced Bluetooth or NFC options, because he didn’t want to leave out members who did not have a smartphone. Instead, after rummaging around in some junk boxes, the gang settled on hacking an old Siemens C55 phone to serve as a GSM modem and to receive calls from members. The incoming numbers are then compared against a list on the EEPROM of an attached PIC16F88 microcontroller, which directs a motor salvaged from a tobacco vending machine to open the push bar on the front door. They had to set up the motor to move an arm in a motion similar to that of a piston, thus providing the right leverage to both unlock and reset the bar’s position.
Check out [Mário’s] blog for more details and information on how they upload a log of callers to Google spreadsheets, and stick around for a quick video demonstration below. If you’d prefer a more step by step guide to the build, head over to
the accompanying Instructables page
. Just be careful if you try to reproduce this hack
with the Arduino GSM shield. | 15 | 7 | [
{
"comment_id": "1131343",
"author": "Per Jensen",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T15:27:59",
"content": "Cool hack, not so cool using a complete PC setup to run the brains of it …",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1131358",
"author": "Josh Mar... | 1,760,376,371.400325 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/bizarre-mini-amplifier-white-noise-generator/ | Bizarre Mini Amplifier + White Noise Generator? | James Hobson | [
"Radio Hacks"
] | [
"audio amplifier",
"bizarre mini amplifier",
"white noise",
"white noise generator"
] | [Jordi] made this awesome looking mini amplifier which has a rather unusual feature. He’s calling it the
Bizarre Mini Amplifier
because it also has a white noise generator built right into it! Bizarre right?
Now, most people would just find a suitable amplifier and put it into a nice box, but not [Jordi]! He’s designed the amplifier circuit from the ground up! It features four distinct stages like most typical amplifiers:
Impedance Adapt Stage: Two OPAMPS for both the left and right channels — The high input impedance allows for different audio sources to be connected without affecting the output.
Mixer stage: Combines the left, right and noise signals into one, using a third OPAMP. A potentiometer is the output resistor which allows for the volume control.
Filter Stage: A simple filter stage that uses a R-C low-pass filter, another potentiometer controls the tone.
Power Stage: A final power amplifier to boost the output.
After building the circuit, there was a bit of troubleshooting to get it to work properly, so if you’re interested [Jordi] has done a great write-up of this on his blog.
Finally, he decided to add a white noise generator after he discovered it helps him sleep. This is the one part of the project that he didn’t actually go into detail for! But, considering it’s just white noise, we could probably figure out what he did. Stick around after the break to see the device in action!
There’s just something about the retro style look to this thing that we love. We know it’s just a plain old white project box, but between the clear speaker, chrome switches and old labels, it just looks… great! | 29 | 10 | [
{
"comment_id": "1131213",
"author": "Gaetan Emanuel",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T13:22:06",
"content": "anyone got an idea where to find those embossed labels? They look sick.,",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1131222",
"author": "medix"... | 1,760,376,371.49701 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/turning-a-building-into-a-rubiks-cube/ | Turning A Building Into A Rubik’s Cube | Brian Benchoff | [
"Toy Hacks"
] | [
"FreeIMU",
"IMU",
"rubiks cube"
] | [Javier] must have an awesome academic adviser. For his master’s thesis,
he turned a building into a Rubik’s cube
.
The Ars Electronic Center in Linz, Austria, is a building with a whole bunch of colored, programmable lights on the facade. [Javier] thought this would make for an excellent Rubik’s cube, and set to work convincing his thesis advisers this idea was possible, and building the hardware and software.
Since only two sides of the building are visible at any one time, [Javier] needed to build a controller for this project. The solution was to build a normal Rubik’s cube and stuff a microcontroller and a
FreeIMU
in the center. This setup senses the twists and turns of the Rubik’s cube, as well as it’s position in space, effectively creating an interface between the hand and a giant light-covered building.
The Rubik’s cube interface connects to a computer running an app written in
openFrameworks.
By sensing the direction the cube is oriented, it can automatically display the two sides of the cube facing the user.
There’s a great video showing just how this building-sized Rubik’s cube works. You can check that out below. | 9 | 5 | [
{
"comment_id": "1131260",
"author": "Hack Man",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T14:05:42",
"content": "For his master’s thesis…..So, he basically paid $120,000 to do this?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1131354",
"author": "Jan Key",
... | 1,760,376,371.554081 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/mains-frequency-display/ | Mains Frequency Display | James Hobson | [
"home hacks"
] | [
"DS3231 RTC",
"mains frequency clock"
] | [James] lives in the UK where the frequency of electricity is suppose to be 50Hz, but it tends to fluctuate based on supply and demand. He decided he wanted a
display to track this.
Now, the
National Grid Website
shows a real-time graph of the last 60 minutes. But that’s way too easy. Time to bust out the soldering iron!
Armed with pencil and paper [James] scribbled down some ideas on how to count the frequency — he settled on counting 200 cycles, which means that at 50.000Hz, it would take exactly 4 seconds. The next problem was getting a timing source that was accurate enough for the job. An ATtiny84 wouldn’t do the trick (too inaccurate), nor would an external crystal (too expensive) — But a real-time clock? That’s the ticket! He’s using a DS3231 RTC chip, which at +/- 2ppm 32.768kHz is more than precise enough.
Some math, programming, and soldering later and the display is complete! He’s even added an up/down arrow to show the most recent trend of the electricity.
Nice one [James]! Last year [Ch00f] did a similar project, where he tore down a 194 discrete transistor clock kit to see how it worked — as an aside, he needed to know how accurate the
60Hz coming out of his wall was! | 45 | 12 | [
{
"comment_id": "1130984",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T09:16:47",
"content": "The national grid also shows real time.http://www.dynamicdemand.co.uk/grid.htm#Interesting to note that real time on that web meter is different from my real time frequency at home (North England). I suppose... | 1,760,376,371.639268 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/11/steampunk-battleship-complete-with-steam-engine/ | Steampunk Battleship Complete With Steam Engine! | James Hobson | [
"Misc Hacks"
] | [
"barnum's dream",
"Franco-Prussian War",
"steam engine",
"steampunk battleship"
] | The photo above doesn’t do this huge and whimsical
Steampunk Battleship
justice. It’s an amazing project that took its creator, [Ed Ross], over 2500 hours to complete.
Called Barnum’s Dream, it was said to be originally commissioned by Queen Victoria as a ship for the Crimean war, and was the largest paddle wheel steam warship ever built. It was then retrofitted with a massive train carriage to be used in the Franco-Prussian war (that’s right, on land!).
The model is just over 4 feet long and just under 4 feet tall.
Aside from the steam engine (which was modified) it was completely build by hand. Almost all of the mechanical linkages and powered by the internal steam engine. The level of detail that went into this is absolutely awe-inspiring.
If you enjoyed the
background history
of the ship, there’s a delightful tale of the ship’s apparent origins on [Ed’s] blog which is thoroughly enjoyable. Make sure to check it out after watching the video after the break. | 10 | 8 | [
{
"comment_id": "1130898",
"author": "j0z0r",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T06:34:50",
"content": "The amount of work and attention to detail in this is amazing! I tried to track down some more information about the history of the original, but it is quite elusive.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1... | 1,760,376,371.892021 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/11/the-3d-printed-ukulele/ | The 3D Printed Ukulele | Brian Benchoff | [
"3d Printer hacks",
"Musical Hacks"
] | [
"3d printer",
"ukulele"
] | The creator of everyone’s favorite slic3r – [Alessandro Ranellucci] – has been hard at work putting his 3D modeling skills to the test. He’s created
a ukulele that’s nearly entirely 3D printed
(
Google translation
). Everything on the uke, short of the strings and tuning pegs came from a MendelMax 3D printer, all without any support material at all.
In the video
, [Alessandro] and uke virtuoso [Jontom] show off how this instrument was put together and how good it can sound. The body of the uke is made of two parts, and the neck – three parts including the headstock and fretboard – all fit together with surprisingly traditional methods. A dovetail joint connects the neck to the body and a tongue and groove-like joint holds the headstock to the neck.
[Allessandro] puts the print time of all the uke parts at
about 120
under 20 hours and about 20 Euros worth of plastic. As far as ukuleles go, this sounds just as good as the average instrument, but [Jontom] says the action is a little bit high. That’s why files were invented, we guess.
Thanks [iant] for sending this one in. | 18 | 11 | [
{
"comment_id": "1130762",
"author": "Charlie Sheather",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T03:12:01",
"content": "I think he said “under 20 hours” not 120 hours. ~3:20 in the video.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1130771",
"author": "ChalkBore... | 1,760,376,371.840458 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/status-light-tells-you-the-code-is-borked-again/ | Status Light Tells You The Code Is Borked Again | Adam Fabio | [
"LED Hacks"
] | [
"CodeShip",
"design",
"Electric Imp",
"github",
"light emitting diode"
] | [Arthur] is teaching himself product development. Rather than create a few mock-up products, he’s taking the path of designing real devices he can use. His current device is a
status light for automated software tests
. We’ve seen
test
and
GitHub
status lights before, however this is the first one to integrate with an outside web service. The status light’s state is based upon output from
CodeShip
, an online continuous deployment test engine.
The electronic design is simple. An Electric Imp retrieves test status data from CodeShip. The Imp then sends the status data over two GPIO lines to an AdaFruit Trinket. The Trinket controls a NeoPixel ring. A green ring indicates all tests are passing. Purple means tests are in progress. A spinning red ring (of death) means one or more tests have failed. Power is supplied via a mini USB connector.
[Arthur] spent quite a bit of time on the mechanical design of the status light as well. All the parts are 3D printed. This allowed him to quickly go through several revisions of each part. We like the use of white PLA for a frosted effect on the top section of the light, as it diffuses the eye piercing glow from all those RGB LEDs. As a finishing touch, [Arthur] created a fake
product page
for his light. He doesn’t have any plans to sell it, but we hope he drops the source and STL files so we can create one of our own. | 5 | 3 | [
{
"comment_id": "1132312",
"author": "sft2",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T07:03:36",
"content": "This reminds me of the everything is OK siren. As long as that ear splitting siren is going off, everything is fine.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "113... | 1,760,376,371.998939 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/inverted-christmas-tree-made-of-nespresso-tubes/ | Inverted Christmas Tree Made Of Nespresso Tubes | James Hobson | [
"Holiday Hacks"
] | [
"nespresso christmas tree",
"nespresso tubes"
] | What happens when you put a few geeks in a room with a curtain rod, 240 Nespresso tubes, some planks, some tape, fairy lights, and a Raspberry Pi? Well,
apparently this!
There’s not too much information on how they made it, but there is a pretty extensive gallery of photos. When we consider how much packaging we waste, it’s nice to see some being reused for a project, at least temporarily! The Nespresso tubes are pretty nice looking which certainly lends itself to this project, but our real question is who drank all the coffee…
The LED fairy lights are voice controlled using a Raspberry Pi model B, nothing too fancy, but a nice added affect. Check out the video after the break — the voice commands are in French though!
As far as audio controlled Christmas lights go, we still think this
outdoor sound-reactive Christmas tree
probably takes the cake!
[Thanks Castors!] | 14 | 8 | [
{
"comment_id": "1132211",
"author": "bobfeg",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T05:22:02",
"content": "That thing is a bit unsettling!Like the Sword of Damocles, you expect it to eventually fall.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1132228",
"author": "... | 1,760,376,371.941422 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/real-life-sonic-screwdriver-for-home-automation/ | Real Life Sonic Screwdriver For Home Automation | James Hobson | [
"home hacks",
"Raspberry Pi"
] | [
"Doctor Who",
"home automation",
"Matt Smith",
"raspberry pi",
"sonic screwdriver",
"x10"
] | Any Doctor Who fans out there? [Pat] just sent us his project on home automation…
using a Sonic Screwdriver!
Ever since he pre-ordered his Raspberry Pi at the beginning of February 2012, he knew he wanted to try his hand at home automation. The easy way was to use X10 outlets, but at $20+ an outlet, it’s not that affordable. Instead, he managed to find a rather cheap system on Amazon — RF controlled outlets. They only cost about $35 for a 5-pack!
It’s a very basic system: five outlets with five buttons on the remote. All he had to do was wire up the Raspberry Pi to simulate the button presses by setting the GPIO pins high, and presto, a simple but effective home automation setup.
This is where it starts to get fun. Unfortunately, unlike a real Time Lord, [Pat] didn’t build his sonic from scratch. Instead, he found a universal remote control — styled after [Smith]’s sonic. Add another RF receiver to the Pi, a web-based interface to extend the range, and bam, you’ve got one geeky, but awesome, home automation setup.
Stick around after the break to see it in action!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP_TDsSkYiI
Kinda reminds us of my RFID Sonic I use at work! I prefer the
Tennant edition though… | 11 | 5 | [
{
"comment_id": "1132360",
"author": "Pat Hartl (@pathartl)",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T08:17:56",
"content": "There’s an IR sensor attached to the Pi. The Pi then brings the GPIO pins high to control the sockets’ RF remote, so it’s a little combination of both. Line of sight isn’t really an issue. I... | 1,760,376,372.163787 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/hdd-driven-table-tennis-robot/ | HDD Driven Table Tennis Robot | James Hobson | [
"Toy Hacks"
] | [
"ping pong robot",
"table tennis robot",
"vendel miskei"
] | Need to hone up your ping pong skills? Nobody to play with? That’s okay, you could always build a
hard drive powered ping pong ball launcher!
[Vendel Miskei] must like 3D modeling. He’s drawn up his entire project in some kind of 3D CAD program (the textures look vaguely like Sketchup?). It makes use of two HDDs, a computer power supply, a bunch of PVC pipe, a microwave synchronous motor, and an overhead light projector!
In order for the hard drives to grip the ping pong balls, it looks like [Vendel] removed all but one of the platters, then glued some foam to it, and what looks like the rubber from a table tennis paddle on top. He’s also made use of the original hard drive case by cutting the end off to expose half of the platter. It seems to be pretty effective!
The overhead light projector is actually just used as a convenient weighted stand for the entire project. The recycled microwave motor indexes the balls in a bucket, allowing for a huge number of balls to be queued up! Stick around after the break to see some of the awesome 3D renderings of the project, and the actual table tennis robot playing a game with its master!
[Thanks for the tip Paul!] | 12 | 9 | [
{
"comment_id": "1132046",
"author": "111",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T01:52:12",
"content": "forever alonne hahaha",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1132110",
"author": "Mystick",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T03:08:41",
"content": "They nee... | 1,760,376,372.108156 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/modifying-a-ps4-dualshock4-controller-to-use-a-mouse-and-keyboard/ | Modifying A PS4 Dualshock4 Controller To Use A Mouse And Keyboard | Mathieu Stephan | [
"Playstation Hacks"
] | [
"Dualshock4",
"keyboard and mouse hack",
"ps4"
] | [Mori] wanted to use his keyboard and mouse to play his favorite games on the PS4, so
he decided to modify his Dualshock4 controller to feed it custom input signals
.
In the heart of this build is an STM32F407 discovery board, which is connected to a USB hub. To perform this hack, [Mori] tore open the Dualshock4 controller to find the PCB traces coming from the sticks and buttons. He then used the STM32F407 and 2 Digital to Analog Converters (DACs) to create similar signals. Unfortunately for us, [Mori] only released the schematics but not the firmware. Our guess is that he had to configure the microcontroller as a USB host, enumerate the mouse/keyboard, parse the HID reports and feed the controller the corresponding inputs.
We embedded a video of the hack in action after the break. If you own a PS4, you may also want to see how to
disable the Dualshock LEDs
. | 14 | 5 | [
{
"comment_id": "1131961",
"author": "Nick",
"timestamp": "2013-12-13T00:31:03",
"content": "I’m pretty sure I would rather just go with this:http://www.cronusdevice.com/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1132207",
"author": "Indyaner",
... | 1,760,376,372.048808 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/finally-an-animated-gif-light-painter/ | Finally, An Animated GIF Light Painter | Brian Benchoff | [
"Arduino Hacks",
"LED Hacks"
] | [
"animated gif",
"GIF",
"light painting",
"neopixel"
] | Light painting, or taking a picture of a moving RGB LED strip with a very long exposure, is the application
du jour
of Arduinos, photography, and bright, glowey, colorful things. Hackaday alumnus [Phil Burgess]
has come up with the best tutorial for light painting we’ve seen
. It’s such a good setup, it can be used to create animated .gifs using multiple camera exposures.
The build uses an Arduino Uno, SD card shield, and
Adafruit’s new NeoPixel strip
with 144 RGB LEDs per meter. Despite a potentially huge mess of wires for this project, [Phil] kept everything very, very neat. He’s using an Altoids case for the ‘duino, an 8 AA-cell battery holder and 3A UBEC for the power, and a wooden frame made out of pine trim.
Part of the art of light painting involves a lot of luck, exponentially so if you’re trying to make a light painted animated .gif. To solve this problem, [Phil] came up with a very clever solution: using a rotary encoder attached to a bicycle. With the rotary encoder pressed up against the wheel of a bike, [Phil] can get a very precise measurement of where the light strip is along one dimension, to ensure the right pixels are lit up at the right time and in the right place.
It’s a wonderful build, and if Santa brings you some gift certificates to your favorite electronics retailer, we couldn’t think of a better way to bring animated .gifs into the real world. | 6 | 6 | [
{
"comment_id": "1131767",
"author": "Reggie",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T21:25:47",
"content": "why should there be a big mess of wires? 2 for power for the duino, 3? or is it 2 wires for the neopixel strip.Kudos for the animated gif though :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": ... | 1,760,376,372.20744 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/12/fail-of-the-week-physical-pixel-display/ | Fail Of The Week: Physical Pixel Display | Mike Szczys | [
"Fail of the Week",
"Hackaday Columns"
] | [
"fail of the week",
"linear actuator",
"pixel"
] | This physical pixel display reminds us of a couple of different hacks that we’ve seen over the years. It looks impressive, but [Matt] couldn’t quite get it to work. It wasn’t the Kinect sensor and image interpretation that was the problem. It was
a failure to get the hardware components seen above to perform
reliably.
If you can’t figure out what this is supposed to do, take at look at
the inFORM morphing table
or the
pixel wall
installed at the Hyundai expo last year. [Matt’s] attempt is much more modest with a grid of just 10×6. The pixels themselves are ballpoint pens (he gets bonus points for cheap and easy materials). The pens move in and out thanks to some
Bowden cables
connected to hobby servos. The mechanical engineers have probably already figured out the fail… the pixels seem to get hung up and despite several revisions in the materials used , it couldn’t be fixed.
The hobby servos were chosen because they are much less expensive than proper linear actuators. We thought maybe [Matt] should
build his own solenoids
but that’s not a great idea because you can’t have variable depth that way (can you?). Perhaps the pens should be vertical and the servos could
pull on a string attached to the pen
via a pulley with gravity to return them to the starting position? There’s got to be an inexpensive and relatively simple way get this thing working. Let us know how you’d get the project back on track by leaving a comment below.
Fail of the Week is a Hackaday column which runs every Wednesday. Help keep the fun rolling by writing about your past failures and
sending us a link to the story
— or sending in links to fail write ups you find in your Internet travels. | 51 | 30 | [
{
"comment_id": "1131628",
"author": "Infidellic",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T19:11:03",
"content": "Not a cheap solution but depending on the design (no I haven’t read the links) pneumatic?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1131853",
"aut... | 1,760,376,372.320673 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/11/ben-heck-builds-the-ultimate-glue-gun/ | [Ben Heck] Builds The Ultimate Glue Gun | Brian Benchoff | [
"Tool Hacks"
] | [
"ben heck",
"extruder",
"glue gun",
"hot glue gun"
] | For how many can be found on the workbenches and in the toolboxes of makers and hackers the world over, finding a glue gun that does more than just heat up and drip glue everywhere can be a challenge.
[Ben Heck] finally solved this problem
with a hot glue gun that’s more like an extruder from a 3D printer than a piece of junk you can pick up at Walmart for a few dollars.
By far, the most difficult part of this project was the glue stick extruder. For this, [Ben] used a DC motor with a two-stage planetary gear system. This drives a homemade hobbed bolt, just like the extruder in 99% of 3D printers. The glue stick is wedged up against the hobbed bolt with a few 3D printed parts and a spring making for a very compact glue stick extruder.
The electronics are a small AVR board [Ben] made for a previous episode, a thermistor attached to the hot end of the glue gun, a solid state relay for the heater, and analog controls for speed and temperature settings. After finishing the mechanics and electronics, [Ben] took everything apart and put it back together in a glue gun-shaped object.
The finished product is actually pretty nice. It lays down constistant beads of hot glue and thanks to a little bit of motor retraction won’t drip.
You can check out both parts of [Ben]’s build below. | 42 | 16 | [
{
"comment_id": "1130669",
"author": "fdsa",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T01:10:54",
"content": "I can’t put my finger on it.. but I remember not liking his show… why…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1130681",
"author": "alex",
"ti... | 1,760,376,372.508017 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/11/hackaday-twitter-hits-40000-followers/ | Hackaday Twitter Hits 40,000 Followers! | Marsh | [
"News"
] | [
"staff",
"twitter"
] | I’m not sure exactly how many readers keep an eye on our Twitter account:
@hackaday
. We hit a new milestone today at 40,000 followers. For those of you who have been watching the Twitter feed recently, you’ve probably noticed it’s no longer limited to simply announcing each new post as it hits the front page. Madness, right?
A little over a week ago [Mike] promoted me to the role of Community Editor; a new position here aimed at directly engaging readers. For now, that means helping to guide conversations in the comments toward a degree of helpfulness and productivity. I’ve also sent out a handful of tweets to sort of test the waters, but considering my job is to engage the community, I thought I’d just ask! What can we at Hackaday be doing differently with social media (particularly Twitter) that you would find valuable? Hit up the comments and let us know, or join the conversation on Twitter:
#HaDSuggestionBox | 18 | 5 | [
{
"comment_id": "1130589",
"author": "brettspark",
"timestamp": "2013-12-11T23:20:21",
"content": "When I initially clicked on the link, it was only 39,997 followers. Was this a preemptive post to get those last few, or is there a ~10-minute delay?Regardless, I went ahead and followed on my (rarely ... | 1,760,376,372.62724 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/11/veronica-gets-a-pair-of-gamepads-and-a-bugged-chip/ | Veronica Gets A Pair Of Gamepads And A Bugged Chip | Brian Benchoff | [
"classic hacks"
] | [
"6502",
"6522",
"gamepad",
"homebrew",
"nes",
"nes controller",
"quinn dunki",
"veronica"
] | [Quinn Dunki]’s awesome 6502-based computer is coming right along, and she decided
it’s time to add one of the most important features
found in the 80s microcomputers she’s inspired by – gamepads.
There were two ways of implementing gamepads back in the 80s. The Apple II analog joysticks used a potentiometer for each joystick axis along with a 556 timer chip to convert the resistance of a pot into a digital value. Analog controls are awesome, but a lot of hardware is required. The other option is the Atari/Commodore joystick that uses buttons for each direction. Surprisingly, these joysticks are inordinately expensive on the vintage market but a similar hardware setup – NES gamepads – are common, dirt cheap, and extremely well documented.
[Quinn] wrote a few bits of 6502 assembly to read these Nintendo controllers with Veronica’s 6522 VIA with the help of an ATMega168, and then everything went to crap.
In testing her setup, she found that sometimes the data line from the controller would be out of sync with the clock line. For four months, [Quinn] struggled with this problem and came up with one of two possible problems: either her circuit was bad, or the 6522 chip in Veronica was bad. You can guess which option is correct, but you’ll probably be wrong.
The problem turned out to be the 6522. It turns out this chip has a bug when it’s used with an external clock. In 40 years of production this hasn’t been fixed, but luckily 6502 wizard [Garth Wilson]
has a solution for this problem
: just add a flip-flop and everything’s kosher. If only this bug were mentioned in the current datasheets…
Now Veronica has two NES controller inputs and the requisite circuitry to make everything work. Video evidence below. | 15 | 11 | [
{
"comment_id": "1130481",
"author": "LouLou",
"timestamp": "2013-12-11T21:08:32",
"content": "How neet is that!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1130496",
"author": "Charlie Kilian",
"timestamp": "2013-12-11T21:24:16",
"content": "… ... | 1,760,376,372.559566 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/11/3d-printering-making-a-thing-with-openscad/ | 3D Printering: Making A Thing With OpenSCAD | Brian Benchoff | [
"3d Printer hacks",
"Hackaday Columns"
] | [
"3d printer",
"constructive solid geometry",
"openscad",
"Printering",
"SCAD"
] | This week, we’re starting off with
OpenSCAD
, a 3D modelling program that’s more like programming than drawing. A lot of useful 3D printable objects – including the parts for a lot of RepRaps – are designed in OpenSCAD, so hopefully by the end of this you’ll be able to design your own parts.
This isn’t meant to be a complete tutorial for OpenSCAD; I’m just demoing SCAD enough to build a simple part. Next week I’ll most likely be designing a part with AutoCAD, but if you have an idea of what software tools I should use as a tutorial to make a part, leave a note in the comments. Check out the 3D Printering guide to making a part with OpenSCAD below.
First, some basics
The basic idea behind OpenSCAD is
constructive solid geometry
this is a modeling technique that uses basic primitives such as a sphere, cube, or cylinder along with basic boolean operations to create an object. Using words to describe this technique is just terrible, so here’s a very, very short example. To the right is a pic of two objects created in OpenSCAD, a cube and a cylinder Below is the code, which you should be able to follow easily:
before
module example() {
sphere(10);
translate([15,15,-10]){
cylinder(h=20, r=5);
}
}
example();
Brain dead simple, right? We’re just creating a sphere with a radius of 10 and a cylinder with a radius of 5 and a height of 20. We’re translating the cylinder in space by 15 units in the x and y axes, and down 10 units in the z axis. Here’s where constructive solid geometry comes in. We can combine those two 3D primitives by using the union() command like so:
union(){
sphere(10);
translate([0,0,-10]){
cylinder(h=20, r=5);
}
}
In OpenSCAD, the union command is implicit. Most of the time, you don’t need it, except in cases where you’re combining other boolean operations. There are two more boolean operations we can use – difference, or just subtracting one object from another, and intersection. Here is the difference command:
difference(){
sphere(10);
translate([0,0,-10]){
cylinder(h=20, r=5);
}
}
And the intersection command:
intersection(){
sphere(10);
translate([0,0,-10]){
cylinder(h=20, r=5);
}
}
That’s constructive solid geometry. With these boolean operations, you can make just about anything. I suppose it’s time to demonstrate that, huh?
Our Thing
Since I’m going to be doing several tutorials of how to build a ‘thing’, it makes sense to have one standard ‘thing’ to make with these tutorials. Choosing an object to copy was unexpectedly hard, but after pulling out a few books on engineering drawing and drafting, I settled on the above ‘thing’, from
Engineering Drawing
(French, 1929). If you’re wondering why I chose something so odd out of a book so old, just remember: the guys who designed the Apollo spacecraft learned drafting and drawing with this book. Also, this is my column, so deal with it. By combining a few cylinders and cubes it’s fairly easy to create a very basic shape of what will become our finished part. The initial code is below, along with a render:
module thing()
{
difference(){
cylinder(h=7, r=19);
cylinder(h=7, r=8);
}
translate([-23,10,0]){
cube([46, 10, 7]);
}
translate([-10,-26,0]){
cube([20, 16, 7]);
}
translate([-10,-26,7]){
cube([20,4,7]);
}
}
thing();
Again, this is just the beginning of our part. we’re only using cubes and cylinders here. If you’re wondering why the dimensions we’re using are so odd, it’s because the original part (published in my fourth edition copy of
Engineering Drawing
in 1929, but it could be from the first edition published in 1911) was designed in eighths of an inch. I’m just writing my OpenSCAD so one unit is equal to one eighth of an inch. When we print this out, we can fix any size issues just by multiplying. To finish up the main body of our part, we need to add a few cylinders on the flange. One thing that’s really cool about OpenSCAD is the ability to create small parts and later combine them with the union command. Here’s a collection of cylinders for our flange:
module flange() {
rotate([270,0,180]){
translate([-10,6,-4]){
difference(){
union(){
cube([20,12,4]);
translate([10,0,0]){
cylinder(h=4, r=10);
}
}
translate([10,0,0]){
cylinder(h=4,r=3.5);
rotate([0,0,90]){
cylinder(h=3, r=7);
}
}
}
}
}
}
Because OpenSCAD is basically just code, we can simply call this module at the relevant space in the code. You can see this in the finalized code a few scrolls down. Right now our part looks like this:
Now the only thing left to add to this thing is the 3/8″ slot on the main body, and a few fillets. I’ll leave the fillets as an exercise to the reader, but here’s the code and a pic for the resulting part:
module thing()
{
difference(){
cylinder(h=7, r=19);
cylinder(h=7, r=8);
rotate([0,0,225]){
translate([0,1.5,0]){
cube([20,3,7]);
}
}
}
translate([-23,10,0]){
cube([46, 10, 7]);
}
translate([-10,-26,0]){
cube([20, 10, 7]);
}
translate([0,-26,24]){
flange();
}
}
module flange() {
rotate([270,0,180]){
translate([-10,6,-4]){
difference(){
union(){
cube([20,12,4]);
translate([10,0,0]){
cylinder(h=4, r=10);
}
}
translate([10,0,0]){
cylinder(h=4,r=3.5);
rotate([0,0,90]){
cylinder(h=3, r=7);
}
}
}
}
}
}
thing();
So there you go. A thing, created with OpenSCAD. Is this the definitive guide to designing stuff with OpenSCAD? No, but it’s more than enough to get your feet wet. It’s enough so you can design your own parts and send them over to a 3D printer. Next week, I’ll be making the same part in AutoCAD, which should translate well to other CAD packages. If you have any desire to see this part made with another 3D design package, leave a note in the comments. | 47 | 25 | [
{
"comment_id": "1130350",
"author": "MakerBlock",
"timestamp": "2013-12-11T19:06:48",
"content": "FYI, I wrote a 12-part OpenSCAD tutorial series for MakerBot that some might find helpful. :)http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/01/19/openscad-basics-the-setup/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,... | 1,760,376,372.723563 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/11/a-really-big-extruder-for-exotic-filaments/ | A Really Big Extruder For Exotic Filaments | Brian Benchoff | [
"3d Printer hacks",
"Crowd Funding"
] | [
"extruder",
"kickstarter",
"welding rod"
] | Even with ABS, PLA, Nylon, HIPS, and a bunch of Taulman filaments, the world of 3D printers is missing out on a great supply of spools of plastic filament. Plastic welding rod is available from just about every plastics supplier, and in more variety than even the most well-stocked filament web shop.
This Kickstarter
hopes to put all those exotic plastic welding rods to good use. Instead of being designed to only use 1.75 and 3mm filaments, this guy will extrude welding rods up to 4.76mm in diameter. This opens the door for 3D printed objects made out of PDPF, PVC, Polypropylene, Polyethylene and other high molecular weight plastics.
Because these welding rods are much bigger than the usual plastic filament, this extruder also has the option for a very beefy NEMA 23 motor. It’s the perfect solution if you’re planning on building a homebrew ludicrous-sized printer, or you just to show off just how awesome you are. | 15 | 7 | [
{
"comment_id": "1130248",
"author": "hue",
"timestamp": "2013-12-11T17:09:07",
"content": "Well, I hope whoever uses this to melt PVC has a really good ventilation system. That stuff is horrifyingly nasty.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1130... | 1,760,376,372.92802 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/11/digitally-controlled-dual-power-supply/ | Digitally Controlled Dual Power Supply | Eric Evenchick | [
"Tool Hacks"
] | [
"analog",
"power supply",
"shunt sense",
"SPICE"
] | [Kerry] set out to build a
digitally controlled dual supply
for his bench. He’s already built a supply based on the
LM338 linear regulator
, but the goal this time was to build it without a linear regulator IC, and add digital control over both the current and voltage.
In
part one
of the build, [Kerry] explains the analog design of the device. He had an extra heatsink kicking around, which can dissipate enough heat from this linear supply to let it run at 10 A. A
NE5532
opamp is used to track a reference voltage, which can be provided by a DAC. The current is measured by a
LT6105
shunt sense amplifier, then compared to a reference provided by another DAC.
Part two
focuses on the digital components. To interface with the analog circuitry, two
MCP4821
DACs are used. These are controlled over SPI by an ATmega328P.
Fortunately, [Kerry] also has his own
DC load project
to test the supply with. | 7 | 3 | [
{
"comment_id": "1130176",
"author": "tekkieneet",
"timestamp": "2013-12-11T15:35:38",
"content": "You can still use a linear regulator with all its built-in goodness byapply a DC offset to its feedback loop. They have good respond time,good PSRR, built-in short circuit and thermal protection.Therma... | 1,760,376,372.77033 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/11/internet-enabling-a-lamp-with-the-raspberry-pi/ | Internet-Enabling A Lamp With The Raspberry Pi | Phillip Ryals | [
"classic hacks",
"how-to",
"Raspberry Pi"
] | [
"home automation",
"lamp",
"raspberry pi"
] | [Jack] sent in his writeup for
internet enabling a home lamp
. While we will certainly have some comments saying this is too simple, it does a great job of breaking things down to the basics. For those that aren’t confident in their electronic skills, this is an easy hack to a commercial device that greatly expands it’s capabilities. [Jack] started with
a cheap wireless outlet controller
. By opening the remote and wiring each switch to a 2N222A transistor, you can very easily control the remote from the GPIO pins on the Raspberry Pi. In [Jack’s] case, he set up a web page using
Flask
that allows quick on/off control.
Of course, this method can be used in any number of instances where you have a wireless controller, from small lamps to garage doors. Given it’s simplicity, anyone can do it with even basic skills. If you’re a beginner who’s been itching to do some home automation, follow [Jack’s] writeup and check an item off your todo list! | 30 | 15 | [
{
"comment_id": "1130038",
"author": "Kubik",
"timestamp": "2013-12-11T13:18:09",
"content": "It’s probably easier and cheaper to use Arduino with cheapo 433MHz transmitter, but if this is supposed to be just one of the many things this RasPi will be used for, why not :)",
"parent_id": null,
... | 1,760,376,372.995406 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/09/the-40-x86-arduino/ | The $40 X86 Arduino | Brian Benchoff | [
"Arduino Hacks"
] | [
"arduino",
"intel galileo",
"x86"
] | Every week the Hackaday tip line receives an email about a new dev board. The current trend is towards ARM devices, and only once have we seen an x86-based device.
Today that count went up to two.
It’s called the 86Duino and stuffs an old Pentium II-class machine capable of running DOS, Windows, and Linux into the space of an Arduino,
The 86Duino Zero features, of course, an x86 Vortex86EX processor running at 300 MHz. This board also features 128 MB of RAM, 8MB of Flash and the usual compliment of Arduino pins in a Leonardo-compatible layout. Also on the SoC is a PCIE bus, Ethernet, a USB 2.0 host, and an SD card. There’s a lot of stuff on this board for such a small size.
Compared to the gigahertz-fast ARM boards around, the 86Duino isn’t really that fast, but that’s not the point. There’s obviously a market for extremely tiny x86 boards out there
as evidenced by the Intel Galileo
, and this board is $30 cheaper than the Intel offering.
There’s no video out on this board, so someone will have to figure out how to attach a graphics card to the PCIE connector before we build a miniaturized old school DOS gaming rig. Still it’s a very neat piece of hardware. If you need to have it now,
here’s a vendor
.
Thanks [sohaib] for sending this one in. | 87 | 27 | [
{
"comment_id": "1128339",
"author": "George Hahn",
"timestamp": "2013-12-10T06:08:49",
"content": "I wonder what the PCIe support is like. Can I remove the headers and stuff it into a laptop using a mPCIe to PCIe adapter? Can I use it to get GPIO out of my desktop PC?",
"parent_id": null,
"... | 1,760,376,373.115771 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/09/future-tech-and-upgrading-your-brain/ | Future Tech And Upgrading Your Brain | Marsh | [
"Hackaday Columns"
] | [
"hacking and philosophy",
"philosophy"
] | A few weeks ago [Jacob Merz] sent me an email about
his sensory expansion project
, which allows the wearer to “hear” infrared light by mapping it to specific tones. Although a rough prototype, [Jacob’s] device reflects a larger realm of technological possibilities: the development of a type of “peripheral” for the human body.
EDIT: Updated gallery to include new photos and added link to Jacob’s new site.
You’re going to want to listen to
[David Eagleman’s] TEDx Alamo talk
particularly around 10 minutes in, where he talks about the
sonic glasses
. [Eagleman] claims that the human brain, if given a consistent input that corresponds to the real world, can decipher the signal into usable information. The sonic glasses, which provide a type of sonar to the blind wearer, eventually just…work. Your brain can “learn” its own drivers for input devices.
If you think the sonic glasses sound more familiar than a 1970’s invention, you’re probably thinking about [
Neil Harbisson
], who built a similar device to allow him to “hear” colors. Strictly speaking, though [Harbisson] claims to be the first UK cyborg, he’d certainly encounter resistance from [Donna Haraway’s]
A Cyborg Manifesto
,
which argues the concept of the “cyborg” is not new to our era; humans have always used tools to expand their abilities, and even the simplest ones should count toward the classification of cyborg.
This week’s
Hacking and Philosophy
is much more opened ended. I invite you to speculate on these technologies and how they are integrated into the human body: from prosthesis that seek to replace missing limbs to eager engineering students or tech enthusiasts
implanting neodymium magnets into their fingers.
1. Where is this all headed? Are humans going to have essentially plug-in-play devices?
2. What other examples of implanting tech are out there?
3. [Eagleman] is working on some other examples of
“sensory substitution.”
Could you hack together something useful like this? Or have you already?
[Eagleman’s] TED Talk:
[Harbisson’s] TED Talk:
[Jacob Merz’s] device: | 21 | 9 | [
{
"comment_id": "1128185",
"author": "Hack Man",
"timestamp": "2013-12-10T03:25:13",
"content": "If you wear glasses that flip your vision 180 degrees, your brain will adapt to this input and “flip” it back. Take the glasses off and your view is upside down.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
... | 1,760,376,373.17723 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/09/ion-wind-propelled-star-trek-enterprise/ | Ion Wind Propelled Star Trek Enterprise | James Hobson | [
"Toy Hacks"
] | [
"ion wind propelled star trek enterprise",
"ion winds",
"ionocraft",
"rimstar",
"rimstar.org",
"Star Trek Enterprise",
"steven dufresne"
] | [Steven Dufresne] recently demonstrated ion propulsion using high voltage, and someone pointed out it kind of looked like the warp drives on the Star Trek Enterprise… so he went out and bought
a model Enterprise and rebuilt his demonstration!
His original video on
Ion Winds
gives a good summary of the beginning of his experiments. In fact, it’s actually a recreation of a design he saw at the International Symposium on New Energy back in 1996 of the
Electrokinetic Apparatus
which was patented in 1960.
By creating a high voltage arc of electricity, it appears that the resulting “ion wind” propels the Enterprise with respect to the fixed testing apparatus. Did we mention he made the
high voltage power supply himself?
[Steven] also points out that the propulsion might be occurring due to dielectrophoresis, but hasn’t discovered any conclusive evidence to prove that. Even the patent is rather vague on how this works:
The invention utilizes a heretofore unknown electrokinetic phenomenon which I have discovered; namely, that when a pair of electrodes of appropriate form are held in a certain fixed spaced relation to each other and immersed in a dielectric medium and then oppositely charged to an appropriate degree, a force is produced tending to move the pair of electrodes through the medium.
Regardless of how or why it works, it’s a fun video to watch, so make sure you stick around after the break to see it! | 28 | 15 | [
{
"comment_id": "1128062",
"author": "Martin",
"timestamp": "2013-12-10T01:13:35",
"content": "…certain fixed spaced relation to each other and immersed in a dielectric medium and then oppositely charged to an appropriate degree…Sounds like…http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetohydrodynamics",
"pa... | 1,760,376,373.236974 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/09/developed-on-hackaday-first-feedback-from-users/ | Developed On Hackaday: First Feedback From Users | Mathieu Stephan | [
"hardware",
"News"
] | [
"developed on hackaday",
"encryption",
"hardware development",
"mooltipass",
"password",
"smartcard"
] | Holy cr*p guys… we were amazed by the quantity of positive feedback that was left in the comments section of
our last article
. We have been featured by
Slashdot
! We got plenty of project name suggestions, therefore
we organized a poll
located at the end of this post to let you decide which one is best. I also received many emails from people eager to start contributing to this offline password keeper project. If you missed the call and want to get involved, it’s still not too late. You can get in touch with me @ mathieu[at]hackaday[dot]com. So far, we have many beta testers, several software developers, one
security assessor
and a few firmware developers. Next step is to create a mailing list and a Hackaday forum category once the project’s name has been chosen.
Obviously, the very first post of our “Developed On Hackaday” series was to gauge your initial reactions to this ‘new’ project. Notice here the double quotes, as when someone has a new idea there usually are only two possibilities that may explain why it doesn’t exist in the market yet: either it is
completely stupid
or
people are already working on it
. In our case, it seems we are in the second category as
many
readers mentioned they wanted to work/were working/had worked on a similar product. As we’re selfish, we offered them to contribute to this new device.
To ensure that all of our readers are on the same page as to how the device will work we embedded a simple block diagram after the break, as well as a list of all new functionalities that we want to implement given the feedback we received. So keep reading to see what the future holds, as well as to vote on this new project’s name…
As we don’t really need an ARM processor for this project, the only microcontroller we can use while keeping
direct
Arduino compatibility is the
ATmega32U4
from Atmel. We haven’t chosen which IDE we’ll develop on (if we actually use one). The device will be recognized as a USB keyboard (USB HID class), therefore
no drivers
should be required on Windows/Linux/Mac/Android/any system you have. A few of our friends actually told us that Tablet PCs and recent phones can enumerate HID devices via their USB OTG port. We may use the great
LUFA library
from [Dean Camera] or the
Teensy code
from [Paul Stoffregen] for USB communications. The next post of our ‘Developed On Hackaday’ series will be about the chosen hardware so we welcome any suggestion from our dear readers in the comments section below.
As a few readers were worried that it’d still be possible to lose stored passwords with the proposed setup, we’d like to emphasize the fact that the device will be able to clone your smart card (containing your AES key and main email password for example). Obviously, it’ll only do so once the initial smart card is unlocked and will copy the same PIN code to the new card. Note that the cloned card is supposed to be kept in a safe place. We’ll also offer the possibility to export the encrypted passwords stored in the device internal memory (not shown in the diagram).
We previously mentioned that a browser extension will send the currently visited website to the device, so the user can approve the sending of his credentials by tapping the touchscreen. One very relevant point has been raised by [tekkieneet]: the fact that one user may always click ‘yes’ without checking that the website visited is the same one shown on the OLED screen. [Tekkieneet] would prefer making the user browse through all the saved websites’ credentials without using any plug-in on the OS side. In our opinion, that reduces user friendliness… what do you think? Could we come up with a way to force the user to check the displayed URL?
[Happyjam64] also suggested that we should force the users to switch passwords every few months. Would this become cumbersome for novice users? Should we allow the users to select what type of security they want? We’re obviously talking about trade-offs here.
Here is another question for our readers: how long should we unlock the smart card for once the user has entered his pin code? A short period may render the device annoying to use daily, and a long one compromises the security of the system. The Hackaday writers’ educated guess would be
to force users to lock their computer when they’re away by removing the smartcard
. The device would detect that the card is not here anymore and therefore perform a keystroke to lock the computer (what’s windows + L for linux and mac?). We’d just have to teach our acquaintances to lock their computer when they’re not in front of it (that seems reasonable, right?).
We look forward to reading your opinions of these key points, and we’ll see you soon in the next episode of our Developed On Hackaday series (thanks [Ren]). In the meantime, don’t forget to vote for your favorite project name! | 54 | 22 | [
{
"comment_id": "1127886",
"author": "Nate",
"timestamp": "2013-12-09T22:39:39",
"content": "What if the device could send you to the login page as well. So you can make sure that you log into the correct site.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "11... | 1,760,376,373.336268 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/09/google-security-certificates-forged/ | Google Security Certificates Forged | Eric Evenchick | [
"Rants",
"Security Hacks"
] | [
"cryptography",
"google",
"https",
"pki",
"security",
"tls"
] | Recently, Google discovered that a certificate authority (CA)
issued forged certificates for Google domains
. This compromises the trust provided by Transport Layer Security (TLS) and Secure HTTP (HTTPS), allowing the holder of the forged certificates to perform a
man-in-the-middle
attack.
To validate that the website you’re visiting is actually who they claim to be, your browser ensures that the certificate presented by the server you’re accessing was signed by a trusted CA. When someone requests a certificate from a CA, they should verify the identity of the person making the request. Your browser, and operating system, have a set of ultimately trusted CAs (called root CAs). If the certificate was issued by one of them, or a intermediate CA that they trust, you will trust the connection. This whole structure of trust is called a
Chain of Trust
.
With a forged certificate, you can convince a client that your server is actually
http://www.google.com
. You can use this to sit between a client’s connection and the actual Google server, eavesdropping their session.
In this case, an intermediate CA did just that. This is scary, because it undermines the security that we all rely on daily for all secure transactions on the internet.
Certificate pinning
is one tool that can be used to resist this type of attack. It works by associating a host with a specific certificate. If it changes, the connection will not be trusted.
The centralized nature of TLS doesn’t work if you can’t trust the authorities. Unfortunately, we can’t. | 23 | 9 | [
{
"comment_id": "1127782",
"author": "Ryan Pavlik",
"timestamp": "2013-12-09T21:12:57",
"content": "Though I think I’ve seen this elsewhere, it would probably be helpful to post the CA in question so we can all set them to untrusted.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
... | 1,760,376,373.394573 | ||
https://hackaday.com/2013/12/09/guest-post-the-real-story-of-hacking-together-the-commodore-c128/ | Guest Post: The Real Story Of Hacking Together The Commodore C128 | Bil Herd | [
"classic hacks",
"computer hacks",
"Featured"
] | [
"bil herd",
"c128",
"commodore",
"custom IC",
"emulator",
"LSTTL",
"NMOS",
"vlsi"
] | The most popular computer ever sold to-date, the Commodore C-64, sold 27 Million units total back in the 1980’s. Little is left to show of those times, the 8-bit “retro” years when a young long-haired self-taught engineer could, through sheer chance and a fair amount of determination, sit down and design a computer from scratch using a mechanical pencil, a pile of data books, and a lot of paper.
Behind the C-128 from a 1985 Ad
My name is Bil Herd and I was that long-haired, self-educated kid who lived and dreamed electronics and, with the passion of youth, found himself designing the Commodore C-128, the last of the 8-bit computers which somehow was able to include many firsts for home computing. The team I worked with had an opportunity to slam out one last 8 bit computer, providing we accepted the fact that whatever we did had to be completed in 5 months… in time for the 1985 Consumer Electronics Show (CES) in Las Vegas.
We (Commodore) could do what no other computer company of the day could easily do; we made our own Integrated Circuits (ICs) and we owned the two powerhouse ICs of the day; the 6502 microprocessor and the VIC Video Display IC. This strength would result in a powerful computer but at a cost; the custom IC’s for the C-128 would not be ready for at least 3 of the 5 months, and in the case of one IC, it would actually be tricked into working in spite of itself.
Before the CES show, before production, before the custom IC’s became available, there was no choice but to Hack in order to make the deadlines. And by Hack I mean we had to create emulator boards out of
LS-TTL
chips that could act like the big 48 pin custom
VLSI
chips that Commodore/MOS was known for .
Commodore C-128, the last mass production 8 bit computer and first home computer with 40 and 80 column displays, dual processors, three operating systems, 128k memory via MMU and one heck of a door stop.
To add to the fun, a couple of weeks later the marketing department in a state of delusional denial put out a press release guaranteeing 100% compatibility with the C64. We debated asking them how they (the Marketing Department) were going to accomplish such a lofty goal but instead settled for getting down to work ourselves.
As the project progressed we realized that this most likely was going to be the final 8 bit system to come out of Commodore. We began shoving in as many features as could fit in a 5 month time frame. Before we were done we would have a dual processor, triple OS, dual monitor (40 and 80 column simultaneously) with the first home computer to break the 64k barrier. We started referring to the C128 as 9 pounds of poop in a 5 pound bag, we couldn’t quite get 10 pounds to fit. We also joked about turning out the lights on our way out the door as we knew that the 8-bit era was coming to a close.
The C128 would require two brand new 40 pin custom chips; a Memory Management Unit (MMU), a Master Programmable Logic Array (PLA), and the venerable but scary VICII video core chip needed to be re-tooled. We also had the chip guys bond up a very special 48 pin version of the 6502 microprocessor and we decided to use Commodore’s newest 80 column chip which by itself almost caused us to miss CES. (But that’s a different story)
The initial Commodore C128 with three months to go until CES. Five custom chips have yet to be completed, in the mean time “chip emulators” kept it running enough that the system software could be written.
So here is where the need for some serious hacking comes in; we needed to start writing software (a whole new Rom Kernel and Monitor and a brand new version of Basic featuring structured commands), we needed to start the process of making PCB’s and we needed to start debugging the hardware and understanding the implications of trying to use 128k of DRAM (yes “k”, not m,g or t) which was a first, as well as the first MMU in a home computer. Along the way it turned into a dual processor system 6502/Z80, and simultaneous 40 column TV display and 80 column monitor. Home monitors didn’t really exist yet, we were kind of counting on having that done in time also, along with a new hard drive.
Bottom of the prototype C128; Three months until CES and it takes lots of jumpers and chips stuck to the bottom to make it work.
What we ended up doing was designing the first PCB to take either finished 40 pin dip chips or 40 pin emulator cables leading to emulator boards built of 74LS chips that when combined with some rather cranky
PLA
’s (The FPGA of the day) and delay lines and whatever else we could find, acted close enough to a custom chip that the programmers could continue working.
Chip emulators unplugged showing the 40 pin footprint shared with a 40 pin IDC header.
The VIC Video Chip for the C128 could initially be emulated starting with a C64 VIC Chip and logic and delay lines.
Our construction technique was to add to the PCB as much as we knew we needed for sure and then add jumpers to that as needed. The mainstay though in the 80’s was good old-fashioned wire-wrap, and so we proceeded to lay out a sacrificial main PCB and wire-wrap sub-assemblies to act like the custom chips that would hopefully arrive in a couple of months. (Looking at the bottom of the main PCB its hard to believe that in about 3 months we would start a production run of several million.)
Example of wire-wrap construction, power is gridded on the bottom, ground on top. A good tech could do this in about 4-6 hours.
C128 PLA emulator. The new PLA was going to be really powerful, to emulate we had to make a lot of concessions to fit in the available sizes. (But that size limit was about to change)
2 weeks before CES the 80 Column Chip was completely broken. Overnight we devised a way to phase lock it to the 40 column chip. The next day we got PCB’s turned in 6 hours at an estimated cost of $20k USD (1984 dollars)
This was just the beginning, ahead lay some fairly insane kludges that all had two things in common; We had to get any hack or fix done overnight while the managers were home sleeping and the end result had to work in million piece quantity.
During the final push to CES we ate our holiday dinners out of aluminum foil in the hardware lab using the heat of disk drives to keep the food warm, and the bathroom sinks doubled as showers. My shoes became unwearable due to extended use and were discarded, only to have a mouse take up residence in the toe. (The first Commodore Mouse)
We assembled units in the booth the night before the show, Commodore Business Machines (CBM) employees were tasked with hand carrying the 80 column chip which had almost been a show stopper. The programmer that had ported
CPM
was able to fix the last of 80 column bugs by editing raw data on the floppy.
The Commodore C128 in 80 Column mode.
Commodore C128 Boot Screen on 40 Column
As far as the product performance at the show we nailed it. Nothing failed, there were no “blue screen” moments, and the press was kind to us. Upon returning to work we struggled with how to ramp down after having been in the crucible for so many months. Showers were taken and eventually the slack-jawed expressions gave way to normal-jawed expression.
We figured we had done the last big 8-bit computer, we knew one era was ending but we were also excited about the advent of the 16-bit Amiga even amid rumors of big layoffs in engineering. Without the drive of the founder, Jack Tramiel, CBM seemed to wander aimlessly canceling the next computer, the LCD Computer system amongst little to no marketing of main products. The feeling for me was as the days of Camelot had come to an end. The team slowly broke up without a new challenge to bind us together, I ended up working at a Trauma Center in New Jersey in my spare time as I had become somewhat addicted to adrenaline.
The Easter Egg in the Commodore C128
Bil Herd
went on to develop high speed machine vision systems and designed the ultrasonic backup alarm commonly seen on new vehicles. For the last 20+ years Bil has been an entrepreneur and founded several small businesses. Bil keeps in touch with collectors and other fans of the old Commodore computers through his website
c128.com
and will soon be opening his new site,
herdware.com
which will feature open source and educational electronics kits.
The C128 Engineering Team as seen in the Easter Egg image:
Bil Herd: Designer & Hardware Lead
Dave Haynie: Intricate timing, PLA Emulator and DRAM
Frank Palaia: Z80 Integration and Ram Expansion
Fred Bowen: Programmer and Software Lead- Kernal & Monitor
Terry Ryan: Programmer- Basic V7 including structured language additions.
Von Ertwine: Programmer- CPM
The Commodore C128 was produced in 1985 and sold 5+Million units generating about about $1.5 Billion in revenue. The C128D with built-in disk drive was supposed to be released at the same time as the standalone unit but the C128D did not make it into production for a couple of years. | 148 | 44 | [
{
"comment_id": "1127609",
"author": "Duncan Gunn",
"timestamp": "2013-12-09T18:22:49",
"content": "I don’t know how to break it to you Bil but the SAM Coupé was the last of the 8-bitters.Just sayin’!But I have to admit you’re a one of a kind and damn good. I own a C64 and numerous other commodore ... | 1,760,376,373.582596 |
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