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https://hackaday.com/2011/04/12/booby-box-its-a-trap/
|
Booby Box – It’s A Trap!
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Arduino Hacks"
] |
[
"bomb",
"booby-trap",
"box",
"trap"
] |
Here’s
a puzzle oddity that challenges you to open the box
without falling into one of the booby-traps. It was built as a side-distraction from the more serious events happening at
Insomni’hack 2011
. [Sergio] and a colleague built the box to resemble a ticking bomb like in the blockbuster action movies we know you look forward to seeing each summer. A display on top of the device counts down for ninety seconds with an audible beep to mark the passage of time and boost your tension level. See it ticking away in the clip after the break.
Two wires meet at the edges of the box halves, completing a circuit that will set off an alarm when the contact is broken. There’s also a photocell on the bottom of the box which triggers the alarm if you lift it and expose this sensor to light. The combination necessary to open the box was provided to each competitor; it was not a numerical code, but a color code. Three potentiometers control the red, green, and blue anodes of an RGB LED, while being monitored by an Arduino at the same time. If you can dial in the appropriate color, the lid trap is disabled and the box can be opened. What does the winner get? Why an Arduino, of course!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXjjjJ46ejA
| 15
| 15
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378849",
"author": "Drake",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:14:29",
"content": "Aww I was expecting to see a breast that when you went to touch it a trap would be set off or something similar. . .",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378853",
"author": "CHRIS",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:19:24",
"content": "I’m with Drake – I see no boobies….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378861",
"author": "ino",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:39:24",
"content": "hurray for boobies !I’m disappointed… ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378881",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:04:27",
"content": "Dude!!!! I love Hackaday because I get to see all of the people that are just like me! I built something similar 16 years ago, called The Bomb Box. It was the same concept, with a digital combo lock, “screw switches”, and a pressurized box, all done with a see through lid. If you triggered any of the lid switches, it would latch into a faster countdown mode, and if you pulled any power wires there was a battery backup in a secret compartment.You didn’t grow up watching MacGyver did you??? I know I did ;-)This stuff is just plain fun!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378888",
"author": "Al",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:10:39",
"content": "What happens if you don’t get inside in time though… where’s the peril?I suggest wiring it up to connect power to the arduino data lines when the timer runs out to fry all the I/O drivers ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378896",
"author": "fotoflojoe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:21:27",
"content": "I’m with ino, who agrees with CHRIS, who’s with Drake…I expected boobies.Where are the boobies?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378928",
"author": "mlseim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:49:08",
"content": "Defusing a timebomb is way too easy. Everyone knows that you always cut the blue wire.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378949",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:15:07",
"content": "“10 seconds MacGruber!!!”…sorry, had to do it.Actually, that would be a cool feature to add… the box yells at you as you disable things 30, 20, 10, 5 seconds MacGruber!!! ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378954",
"author": "rallen71366",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:21:19",
"content": "I guess you guys never worked on a box where the idiot built it with wires that were all the same color, usually white. A mistake in that situation isn’t usually deadly, just expensive…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379248",
"author": "Jeremy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T02:28:38",
"content": "i tend to use purely red wires when i wire things up >.< but then again it was also the cheapest roll of wire i ever bought.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379268",
"author": "Tech B.",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T03:29:47",
"content": "Boobies —–> ( . Y . )",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379292",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T04:40:46",
"content": "@Jeremy, I have this MEGA “5 MILE” spool of RED 22AWG solid copper wire that I bought at a surplus store back in the day for $25. I thought it was a steal, and I’ll probably pass it on to my son some day because it’s like 3 lifetimes worth of wire. So yeah, I tend to use RED too ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379530",
"author": "AndroidCat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T15:07:44",
"content": "Be careful where you leave something that looks like “a ticking bomb in the blockbuster action movies” or you might find that Homeland Security has blown it up and wants to ask a few questions.1-31-07 Never Forget!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "381762",
"author": "anthony",
"timestamp": "2011-04-17T11:28:23",
"content": "AndroidCat is right – don’t do this if you are in China or USA. But maybe the author is in a democratic country.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "381801",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-17T14:45:41",
"content": "@anthony – don’t let “the man” hold you down ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.083014
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/12/dynamic-dns-updating-no-pc-required/
|
Dynamic DNS Updating – No PC Required
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"arduino",
"dynamic dns",
"dyndns",
"home networking"
] |
[Boris] from Open Electronics recently wrote us to share their latest creation. Like many of us, he uses DynDNS to keep his home network a FQDN’s reach away. While DynDNS is quite a convenient service, many people don’t like the idea of leaving their computer on all the time to keep the IP updated. That’s where the
Arduino DDNS module
comes into play.
Built using a standard ATMega328 with the Arduino bootloader installed, the module periodically checks to see if the user’s IP has changed, updating the DynDNS entry as needed. The Arduino talks to the network via a WIZnet Ethernet breakout board, contacting DynDNS’ servers to check and update the user’s IP over a series of standard HTTP requests.
We are aware that several router firmware packages such as DD-WRT have this functionality built-in, but this project makes for a nice alternative when those resources are not available.
As always, a bill of materials, PCB layouts, and Arduino Sketch code are all available for download over at the Open Electronics site.
| 30
| 30
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378804",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:25:16",
"content": "now THAT’S clever!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378805",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:25:35",
"content": "The last four routers (Linksys, D-Link, Thomson and … dammit what was it, bleh, can’t remember) I’ve owned had this functionality built in with the standard firmware. I thought it was sort of a standard thing to have.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378810",
"author": "Joey Joe Joe Shabadoo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:30:51",
"content": "I can’t think of a single router on the market that doesn’t have this built in already.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378813",
"author": "MrP",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:33:34",
"content": "Well done project. Maybe not the most cost effective way to do it, as almost all modern routers have this built in, but it can be a nice learning tool that can be reused later.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378814",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:34:51",
"content": "Nice, but if his computer’s off why does he need a FQDN? Can the AVR switch it on when it’s needed?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378815",
"author": "cdkr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:36:00",
"content": "Pretty cool,but yeah i agree, all the last couple of routers i’ve had, have had that functionality in the stock firmware.Not that I ever used them much, as they where all promptly flashed with DD-WRT or tomato, or replaced with somthing that could run it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378816",
"author": "ds2ktj",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:36:38",
"content": "My 5 year old WRT54G has it built in….but this is an interesting project still.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378819",
"author": "tim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:46:15",
"content": "Very nice project, but if you are connected to internet you have a routeur, and all routeur have this built in.anyway interesting for learning.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378821",
"author": "MrBishop",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:49:04",
"content": "Like others have said, its pretty standard for most of us. But I like the concept, and I can just think of other ways we could use this mini DNS updater. Just wondering, does anyone know a way to get DynDNS be to allowed behind a firewall you can’t port forward on? I am currently living at a university and want to be able to access my files form elsewhere, remote in, acess my personal web-server (its private), ect.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378833",
"author": "Gregg",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:02:04",
"content": "@ds2ktj: So does mine,which is a WRT54G2. And it is an interesting project.However the one thing that most people aren’t aware of is that the DDNS people, in this case the largest of the providers, which is DynDNS wants people to run some sort of wizard on their hosts to automatically update them. Even if the router does do that. The one I use fortunately provides several different binaries, including one for Linux and Solaris on SPARC.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378842",
"author": "bemis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:08:09",
"content": "While it is built into many routers, not all routers support the DDNS service you might choose to work with.Specifically, the Verizon FIOS router that I have does not work with no-ip (or at least, didn’t last time I looked).I could use my own router w/ the service, but then I lose caller-id and remote DVR functions if I hide the Verizon router behind my own.I can see this as being useful in certain situations.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378844",
"author": "GameboyRMH",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:09:15",
"content": "A lot of factory routers only use the DynDNS service provided by the manufacturer, but open source firmwares like DD-WRT definitely support regular DynDNS. Still, this is a cool idea, and could perform other useful network services that don’t require a lot of computing power: Tor exit node, SSL notary, VPN host, etc.@MrBishop: DynDNS itself works fine without port forwarding, getting back into your network using that address is another matter…if you can’t port-forward you’re out of luck. The only other thing you could try is setting up a VPS and using a VPN or reverse SSH tunnels to route traffic from that VPS to your home (dorm?) server.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378848",
"author": "Mike Nathan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:12:47",
"content": "bemis, I agree.To be honest, the last router I purchased didn’t have a DDNS option though that was a while ago. Once I flashed it with DD-WRT, I was good to go.Since then, I switched from Comcast to ATT U-verse, and their Residential Gateway (also the router) has no ability to utilize DDNS that I have seen.That said, I leave my computer on 24×7 anyhow, and I simply use the DynDNS client. If I didn’t, something like this would do the job nicely.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378866",
"author": "Roberto",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:48:39",
"content": "I dont see the point of having DynDNS without having an active server (usually a powered on Linux PC) inside your house LAN.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378867",
"author": "YaBa",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:49:07",
"content": "Most of the routers use DynDNS and eventually No-IP, however, this may be a good start to use other providers that routers manufacturers doesn’t like. Nice hack.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378869",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:52:44",
"content": "I agree with DDWRT and most router has this feature build in. But I look at this as an interesting sample for those who if you are learning how to use uC to interface with network, HTTP protocol etc. A similar project I have in mind is a standalone device to use a DS3231 and ntp to act as a stand alone time server on the network.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378871",
"author": "mark",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:56:59",
"content": "Perhaps it could also be used to broadcast wake-on-LAN packets?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378876",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:00:42",
"content": "Nice !i’d like to see some wake-on-lan relay that could be connected to set-top boxes that don’t have this functionality.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378900",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:22:51",
"content": "If you don’t run your computer at least once a month, you don’t really need a dyndns account. If you run it more often, just get a script which runs when system starts. It’s just a matter of pinging one site and it’s done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378991",
"author": "zombiejebus",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T18:50:00",
"content": "Neat. I like the fact that the project has some documentation; given the fact that a lot of commercial routers have some dynamic dns feature built in; or dd-wrt /pfsense/m0n0 have this built in. .or that any computer thats always on can do this. .or that a linux based nas device or similar can be setup to do this. .or your 20 year old mac/pc/etc can be setup to do this. . eh.makes me wonder what the total part cost is to build one of these. You could probably find a super cheap dd-wrt capable router and set it up just to be a dyndns client device for ~40 dollars. Might be a better solution simply due to the device having a case + power supply.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378992",
"author": "drn74",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T18:50:05",
"content": "Nice tool usefull!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379016",
"author": "AC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:36:58",
"content": "Almost all the consumer routers already support DynDNS and TZO (especially the cameras). A few still support no-ip and some other small providers.What’s interesting though is you might have a router-less network with just a camera (a dumb one without DDNS). Here, that works fine.Also, you could combine this with some event based on IP change (wake on lan or flip a power switch).I’ve looked at the code though, and it does not implement DDNS correctly. There’s a lot of stuff you need to do besides watch for an IP change and post an update (and assume it works).This is a neat toy, but use a more complete updater if you depend on the domain not getting blocked.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379259",
"author": "Pilotgeek",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T02:59:48",
"content": "Me gusta.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379371",
"author": "Phaux",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T06:50:13",
"content": "Actually, something like this would be useful to me because I don’t have a router on my network that has this feature.Though my arguement is invalid, because I have a linux box acting as my router, therefore I have a computer that’s on 24/7 that can update my domain.Now, a valid reason to do this, would be on a Arduino project that uses a GSM shield and is remote. Say, a weather balloon or similar.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379479",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T12:43:30",
"content": "Wow, a dozen or more comments all saying how they don’t need this. Good Job. The fact that it is useful to a minority doesn’t make it useless, and really the same could be said about most projects here.If nothing else, I like the pcb layout that I could use for other sketches. Thank you, Boris, for including a nice parts list, sketch, and pcb layout. Nice work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379485",
"author": "Giuseppe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T13:03:36",
"content": "Useful, but many modern ADSL modems already implement this function.Giuseppe",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379489",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T13:10:43",
"content": "I dont get it. What’s the point in having the DDNS updated with your IP if there’s no computer actually turned on and using that IP anyway? What a ridiculous thing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379539",
"author": "Rick",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T15:29:10",
"content": "Those that say why use this if you do not have a computer.. I need something just like this for my fathers cabin. The provided ISDN modem does not have DDNS and I have a IP camera that only uses a pay service. I wanted to use it with DynDNS, but to do so I had to place a DDWRT router JUST for DynDNS functionality. Waste of a DDWRT router in my opinion.So bravo.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379598",
"author": "random_jandom",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T17:51:49",
"content": "Every time I’ve used the DynDNS updater built into my routers/modems it’s gotten my host blocked for updating it when the IP hasnt changed :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "381508",
"author": "Cookiesworld",
"timestamp": "2011-04-16T19:03:17",
"content": "If you live in the UK and have a Virgin media super hub, you do not have dyndns built in. Virgin actually removed it when they re-branded a linksys router.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.201238
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/12/temperature-sensing-mug-means-never-burning-your-mouth-again/
|
Temperature Sensing Mug Means Never Burning Your Mouth Again
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"LED Hacks",
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"diode",
"drinks",
"leds",
"pic",
"temperature sensor"
] |
Some people tend to get awfully attached to their favorite mug. Like an old friend, the mug holds a special place in their hearts, and there’s a weird sadness when it finally gives up the ghost. Through the winter months [Ben’s] girlfriend is never without hers, and when it broke, he decided to give her a new one
with some added functionality
.
He built her a temperature sensing mug that uses a rather novel way of determining how hot or cold the contents are. Instead of using a thermistor to determine the drink’s temperature, he opted to use a simple diode since it is well known that a diode’s forward voltage varies with temperature. After determining the diode’s voltage range using hot and cold beverages, he hooked it up to the ADC of a PIC12F615 micro controller. The temperature is displayed via 10 LEDs, which are driven through a pair of 8-bit shift registers and buffers since his PIC did not have enough pins to control them on its own.
He had some PCBs made, and after a handful of setbacks got everything put together. He says the mug works pretty well, though the display changes a bit more slowly than he would like. He also mentions that if he builds a second version, he will be sure to select a different PIC that has enough I/O pins to do the job, as well as use a thermistor instead of a simple diode for sensing the temperature.
Continue reading to see a brief demo video [Ben] put together.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3rdqrNcfKg&w=470]
| 14
| 14
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378781",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T13:49:08",
"content": "Why not a single RGB led?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378784",
"author": "Mccoywm",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T13:55:56",
"content": "Cool project, but I would like to see a single RGB led that goes from blue to red with temperature.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378788",
"author": "mixikaabin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T13:58:04",
"content": "or a dual led, so you can have different colors. one for when is hot, and one when it is cold. Then when it is just right the both light up :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378800",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:20:26",
"content": "I like the bar graph…but a single bi colour LED and a 8 pin SOIC would greatly miniaturize this circuit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378802",
"author": "Swankie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:22:07",
"content": "theres no such thing as too cold, mixi",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378817",
"author": "Johannes",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:36:51",
"content": "Cool mug! Horrible vid!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378818",
"author": "bolle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:38:13",
"content": "That’s one giant mug!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378862",
"author": "pookey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:42:47",
"content": "This is cool, and a neat home-brew project,If I were to manufacture temperature-reporting mugs, however, I would base my product on color-changing crystals molded into plastic (to protect them from dish-washing. ) This is a simpler approach to the same end, and doesn’t require a power source.The crystals I’m talking about form the basis for “mood” rings, and those flat, stick-on thermometers you can sometimes find at the dollar store.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378879",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:03:02",
"content": "@Mccoywm yup agree. a single RGB (or even RG bi color LED) with PWM.Bar LED does look cool if he can program some animation to move once in a while ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378886",
"author": "Adrian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:09:47",
"content": "Whats wrong with using a shift buffer? Its not like you need to update particularly fast, is there something I am missing?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378908",
"author": "Brennan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:30:10",
"content": "The temperature range is very limited – only 30 ADC codes. But I suppose it doesn’t need to be more unless you wanted to display the actual temperature. Like everyone else said, this should have been done with a single RGB LED and PWM output. Fade hot colors to cool colors as the coffee cools.I want to do something like this but have it be a board that sits on the top of the mug and indicates when the coffee is cool enough not to burn your tongue. I was thinking of using an IR temp sensor, however overkill that may be. I don’t like how adding it to the base of the mug restricts you to using only that mug. But that’s just personal preference.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379104",
"author": "trialex",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:58:03",
"content": "I wonder if hot coffee has enough temperature differential to generate power through a peltier element?A cup of coffee can run a Stirling engine, but that might be a bit unwieldy for this :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379116",
"author": "CG",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T22:14:00",
"content": "The temperature sensor should be at the top of the cup so that it senses how hot the liquid you are about to drink is.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379580",
"author": "Tony",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T17:03:08",
"content": "@pookey, mood rings generally have a pretty small temperature range. You can get stickers to attach to things that work the same way, but their range is small-ish as well. Often they’re made for a specific purpose, babies bath water, fish tanks, home brew kegs etc, and only work at the required temperature.He didn’t actually need the diode, the watchdog timer in the PIC is temperature sensitive as well (based on a RC circuit). Each chip is slightly different though, so calibration is needed to make it work for _your_ chip.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.136093
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/12/play-unreleased-retro-games-on-the-real-thing/
|
Play Unreleased Retro Games On The Real Thing
|
Kevin Dady
|
[
"Nintendo Hacks"
] |
[
"SES",
"Starfox2"
] |
Star Fox, one of the greatest 3D space shooters ever developed, has a pretty decent fan base even after eighteen or so years. It had a sequel that was 99% complete, but it came very late in the Super Nintendo’s life and it was held off so that the next great Star Fox would be on the newest Nintendo console, the N64.
You could get the Japanese version, which aside from a couple debug routines, is complete, and you could play it on an emulator. While emulators are fine for most of us, anyone who has played a game on the real metal can quickly and easily pick out minor nuances.
Since playing Star Fox 2 on the real hardware is not a simple trip to the flea market, [Doug] went about
ripping apart an old SNES cart and placing a eprom inside with the data from the game
. Through that 8 page forum post you can see the project start, progress through different constructions, and result in 3 fully working carts, complete with custom labels.
Join us after the break for a quick video.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOytayEPZtc&w=450]
| 17
| 17
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378742",
"author": "spiritplumber",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T11:19:46",
"content": "If anyone cares, there’s a bounty for doing this with Wing Commander 2 for the SNES. You can talk to the site admins athttp://www.wcnews.comfor information, it’s a good community that is known for getting stuff done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378756",
"author": "Ben Foote",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T12:07:11",
"content": "This…is…awesome!Kudos for getting it to work on a real SNES. I was just thinking about how much I wanted to find the Star Fox 2 ROM and give it a play the other day…this is inspiring…and tempting.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378759",
"author": "MrBishop",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T12:17:02",
"content": "If it was never released then how can we legally obtain the rom? Not to be that guy, I am just curious is all. Also great work man, I am not all that much of a Star Fox fan, but a buddy of mine is, and I am sure he will be glad to see this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378777",
"author": "Raizer04",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T13:37:54",
"content": "Yet again the modders at moddedbybacteria prove again that they are serious in the modding world. If you havent checked out there site….you would be amazed!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378778",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T13:43:28",
"content": "Exactly, The poor company that made StarFox II is losing billions of dollars a second every time someone plays it! Why wont anyone think of these poor people!Oh wait, the arguments against Piracy on retro consoles dont stand up.. WE need to ignore that as we must protect the precious corporations!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378790",
"author": "Philip",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:07:16",
"content": "I think this should be a featured hack, pong clock has been there too long now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378799",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:19:51",
"content": "lol the corperations? nintendo let them invest a ton of money into the development of this game then just dropped it like it was a loosing lottery ticket. Im sure the developers would rather people enjoy their game than just have it forgotten",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378859",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:37:28",
"content": "nothing new. d4s did this a few years ago…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378868",
"author": "andar_b",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:50:05",
"content": "Now if only someone could find Ultima 8 part 2. :pThe damn BOX has been found, but not the code.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378882",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:04:47",
"content": "“anyone who has played a game on the real metal can quickly and easily pick out minor nuances.”Disagree.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378915",
"author": "M",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:38:05",
"content": "So, was this originally a Star Fox 1 Cartridge to get the FX chip? I don’t understand where he got the parts besides the eeproms",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378945",
"author": "Jeannot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:10:09",
"content": "it appears this hack was already done.http://www.generation-snes.fr/Forum/index.php?showtopic=178good feat nonetheless, didn’t know about this game!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378951",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:17:07",
"content": "oh im not saying i did it first and uhh cutthroughstuffguy there is no emulator that plays this game well they all run way too fast. M that cart used a stunt race fx board the one i just finished used a winter gold fx a cart that noone has been able to run the final english version of the game on",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379004",
"author": "Scuzz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:16:41",
"content": "@CutThroughStuffGuy: And I Disagree with you. (Hey, if you don’t provide any arguments why the heck should I?)I totally respect the hack, but being an SNES lover, I’m curious: is the tototek Super Flash cart any different?http://www.tototek.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8_11&products_id=39I was never too sure how the whole superFX chip thing worked with the super flash cart, I’m guessing it might not work.I dream of one day doing what tototek did and putting ram and an FPGA on an snes board with the superFX chip.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379540",
"author": "abobymouse",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T15:29:37",
"content": "nice hack.It may have been better with a zif socket, to allow changing to different eproms without a bunch of soldering.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "380100",
"author": "Nope",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T13:20:44",
"content": "Awesome, someone should try doing this with a socket connector for interchangeable chips and rewriting. Anyways, fantastic project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "732425",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2012-08-12T22:06:12",
"content": "Here’s my question. I can do everything in this mod, including a clean chip install instead of a nest of wires, but the one thing I lack is the writer. Is it possible to find the rom already on a chip somewhere??",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.542676
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/11/controlling-weapons-with-kinect/
|
Controlling Weapons With Kinect
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Kinect hacks",
"Weapons Hacks"
] |
[
"Kinect",
"rocket launcher",
"usb"
] |
It was only a matter of time before someone would figure out how to weaponize their Kinect. Hacker [Jonas Wagner] was fiddling with his Kinect one day and thought that it would be cool to
launch missiles simply by gesturing
. Not having any real missiles on hand, he settled for controlling a USB-powered foam missile launcher instead.
He mounted a webcam to the top of his rocket launcher to record video of his victims, and with a bit of Python along with the libfreenect ilbrary he was well on his way to
world
cubicle dominance. The Kinect waits for him to pull his hand out of its holster in dramatic fashion, monitoring his movements for tracking purposes. Once the launcher has been armed, the Kinect watches for [Jonas] to pull his hands out of frame before firing the rocket.
We doubt you’ll see this thing controlling weapons for DARPA any time soon, but it’s cool nonetheless. The launcher seems to move a touch slowly, but we’re guessing that with an uprated servo, things could be a bit snappier.
Continue reading for a quick video of the Kinect-powered rocket launcher in action.
[via
KinectHacks
]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hz5OiQAmUpc&w=470]
| 6
| 6
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378497",
"author": "aztraph",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T22:07:29",
"content": "nice, and the kid didn’t even flinch",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378535",
"author": "Donovan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T00:07:52",
"content": "Reminds me of the roof top scene in the movie crank, where he pretends his hand is a gun and someone else shoots the people he points at. I think the same gimmick might have been in smokin’ aces too…anyway, cool usage. now use multiple kinects to figure out what you’re pointing at and shoot that – like the movies :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378536",
"author": "salomon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T00:08:08",
"content": "little brothers are the best",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378548",
"author": "Amos",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T00:32:59",
"content": "It’s not so much that the turret is slow (although it could definitely be sped up) it’s more that the interface needs some kind of proportional control. It seems like the position of his hand is just controlling the equivalent of “turn left” and “turn right” buttons. This could be a limitation of the turret, but it could probably be worked around with some low-frequency PWM. It’s a cool idea; it just needs a bit more work.@Donovan: See also: “The Losers”@The Wagners: you both need haircuts, ASAP. I thought that was your sister in the video :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378603",
"author": "caleb",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T03:52:46",
"content": "what the fuck is a haircut? *busts out with a death metal cyclone*",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378664",
"author": "Max",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T06:20:36",
"content": "I would have used the Kinect to detect the and follow the target – but then again, I don’t get the whole Kinect-craze so I guess I’m not the target demographic…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.246492
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/11/giant-scale-printer/
|
Giant Scale Printer
|
Jason Komp
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"giant printer"
] |
This
giant printer
was originally constructed by [Komponent/LAB] in 2006 to print some large-format banners for a festival, but has recently been pulled out of storage and updated for the
Venture Cup competition
. The system received a few mechanical and software updates and was also mounted on tripods in order to make it fully portable.
Instead of using stepper motors and encoders to directly control the print head as in a typical printer, the entire print axis is turned vertically and the relative lengths of two belts are varied (along with the constant downward pull of gravity) to precisely control movement across the plane. The software uses HPGL plotter files and is able to scale them to fit the available printing area.
Although there are some issues with the print head wobbling due to the rapid accelerations, any printed imperfections appear to be difficult to notice from more than a few feet away. Precision could be further increased by tweaking the software to compensate for such unwanted movements.
Although we can imagine many different applications for such a printer such as architectural or street art, some fine tuning would definitely be required at very large scales and to compensate for wind, etc if done outdoors.
Here are some
pictures
of the build and there is a short video of it in action after the jump.
[via GeekPhysical]
| 16
| 16
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378403",
"author": "Robot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T19:21:07",
"content": "Predated byhttp://www.hektor.chI think? Is this by the same people?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378408",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T19:25:46",
"content": "For large outdoor paintings printhead could be equipped with accelerometer. It would give printer information about vibrations, with clever programming printer would be able to print when printhead would be near required position.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378414",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T19:30:31",
"content": "Now THIS:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mnxwlvW81cis one giant printer (from links in video embedded in this article.)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378437",
"author": "notmyfault2000",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T19:54:59",
"content": "@yetihehe: Now that is one big ass-printer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378460",
"author": "Mumfi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T20:18:59",
"content": "Maybe adding a third and even a fourth belt? Offset from the other two. And increasing the tension somewhat. The printer would then be fixed, much steadier, and not dependent on the gravitational acceleration to move downwards. This should also make it possible to increase the speed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378496",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T22:04:04",
"content": "Needs colour.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378504",
"author": "feedayeen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T22:22:18",
"content": "Aha, finally, the perfect printer to use for making the etching resists. Now all I need is a swimming pool full of HCl and I can begin construction of the giant robots.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378521",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T23:19:14",
"content": "make it print solder so you can print some gigantic circuits",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378523",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T23:23:10",
"content": "This is a giant plotter, not a giant printer :P there is a difference.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378527",
"author": "ladz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T23:41:25",
"content": "This is brilliant!Been pondering for years how to do this, printing the side of a building. This solution is easy, cheap, and portable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378606",
"author": "noah vawter",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T04:00:56",
"content": "Remember kids! No demo video is complete without full-tilt techno kicking it off to convey excitement :)seriously though, the quality of this version does look higher than previous versions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378617",
"author": "madwelder",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T04:28:50",
"content": "It’s cool and it reminded me of something from a few years back: What about that dot matrix printer made with an RC car? I heard that the same fellows were working on a van…FYI: I used a crane that worked on a similar principal to the rig holding the print head that used two winch lines each run through a block on its own spar that came together at a hook. It was called a Burton.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378628",
"author": "DivePeak",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T04:56:16",
"content": "I gotta start work again on my giant X-Y printer that has been languishing for years… Problem is that I suck at actually building things!What I’m also thinking, though, is a system like this in three dimensions – 4 poles, each with a cable attached to a platform that you can mount a camera on so you can fly it around in a big space.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378766",
"author": "tjb",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T13:03:30",
"content": "@ DivePeak, That is how they do many of the camera shots at NFL and other sports games.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378789",
"author": "tobias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:05:54",
"content": "This is very good! I made one myself but with lines rather than cog belts. Cog belts are much better and can run much faster than mine. If you are interested:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wy4FKBOG9GYI guess that the first project I saw on this theme is the HECTOR:http://www.hektor.ch/.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378850",
"author": "bunedoggle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:15:26",
"content": "How does it print so accurately with so much wiggling?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.406685
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/11/ball-bot-constructed-from-power-tools-and-pet-toys/
|
Ball Bot Constructed From Power Tools And Pet Toys
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"arduino",
"ball bot",
"remote control",
"zigbee"
] |
Hackaday forum member [machinelou] says he’s been fascinated with remote controlled hamster balls for quite some time. Inspired by a ball bot he saw on a BBC show, he finally picked up a 12″ plastic ball
and got to work
.
He used a small drill to provide the power required to roll the ball, and an Arduino is used as the brains of the device. This is his first major project outside of simple I/O and servo control, so he’s taking things slowly. While all this is a bit new to him, he already has things up and running to a degree as you can see in the video below. In its current state, the ball is programmed to roll forward and backwards for a few seconds before going back to sleep.
His future plans include adding a servo-controlled weight to allow him to steer the ball as well as using a pair of Zigbee modules in order to control the ball remotely.
It’s a neat little project, and definitely one that would be a fan favorite among kids. Stick around to see a quick video of his bot’s progress thus far.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vuj8q_J-eRM&w=470]
| 6
| 6
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378371",
"author": "badspyro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:18:11",
"content": "import SOULThat is all…http://xkcd.com/413/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378402",
"author": "Roberto",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T19:18:55",
"content": "What’s the theoretical maximum slope a ball bot can climb? Can it roll itself out of a sand trap?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378406",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T19:25:11",
"content": "Very cool project ;) I have a certain affinity for this one because I did the exact same thing 15 years ago using the same ball, except mine was blue. I started right away with the pendulum steering design and it was an instant A++ for my college senior project. The motor controller was made from scratch, except I didn’t have enough time to build in a custom controller solution. I just used a standard R/C radio system which worked well, and did some interface circuitry to massage the PMW from the receiver into an acceptable signal to drive the motor controller. It was a completely original concept to use the pendulum to steer the ball, but as it later turned out the technology was already patented back in like 1985, so I didn’t do anything with it. This same technology has been used by the military and NASA since then.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378484",
"author": "Curiouser",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T21:31:35",
"content": "Looks nice … but seriously, 29 sec of video for 5 sec of actual movement?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378658",
"author": "Simon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T06:04:26",
"content": "I think the maximum slope it could sustain a climb up would be the greatest angle where some point on the surface of the sphere (where you have conveniently placed your pendulum weight) moves downward as the ball rolls. Once every point on the sphere is being lifted by the turning motion, there is no possibility of it being able to climb. Anyway, in the real world you probably wouldn’t get very close to that theoretical limit.You could overcome that in the short term by rolling the ball against an internal ballast that is being used as a pivot.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378660",
"author": "Simon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T06:08:07",
"content": "Sorry, I only read the article after I posted that – I see this particular ball bot only uses the second method, so the answer is that the slope you can climb up is determined by how powerful the motor is and how much grip the ball has.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.356618
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/12/new-inexpensive-dso-now-shipping/
|
New, Inexpensive DSO Now Shipping
|
Jeff Katz
|
[
"hardware"
] |
[
"oscilloscope"
] |
Seeed Studio’s line of hacker-friendly tools has expanded by one, they’ve announced that beta units of their DSO Quad oscilloscope are now available for shipping. The DSO Quad is about the size of a thick iPod yet packs impressive features such as two 72MSPS analog channels and a signal generator. By far the coolest ‘feature’ of the DSO Quad is that it’s completely open source.
DSO Quad
is a pocket size four-channel digital oscilloscope designed “for common electronic engineering tasks.” It’s based on an ARM Cortex M3 that provides 72MSPS analog bandwidth on two channels with an integrated FPGA and a high speed ADC. In addition to the four data acquisition channels (two analog, two digital), the DSO Quad has a signal generator. This lets you put out square, triangle, saw, and sine waves from 10Hz to 1MHz. An internal 2MB USB stick can be used to store sampled data, upgrade the firmware, or run custom programs. Since the device is still in beta, some of the software specifications aren’t firm, but if you’re looking for a relatively inexpensive ‘scope, this could be the one for you. Just bear in mind that for this pre-production run you’re not getting any documentation, so be prepared to be off the reservation and on your own.
| 24
| 24
|
[
{
"comment_id": "379105",
"author": "Dino",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T22:05:22",
"content": ",, out of stock ):",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379113",
"author": "Justblair",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T22:10:29",
"content": "I was lucky enough to get my hands on the pre-beta units. I have a review of this device and video here..http://www.justblair.co.uk/Oscilloscopes/seeedstudio-dso-quad-early-preview.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379132",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T22:57:58",
"content": "Yeah if you haven’t been following their twitter feed lately, you’re too late. I’d wait until some of the little kinks are worked out if you are seriously considering adding this as a lab tool though. I have a Rigol DS1052E and couldn’t be happier with the performance for home and office use, although it’s double the price of this pocket gem. The guys at Seeedstudio make some really cool stuff!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379167",
"author": "DanJ",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T00:20:43",
"content": "They claim 72 MHz analog bandwidth with a 72 MSPS sampling rate (on one channel). This seems surprising. I tried to download the schematic from the wiki but couldn’t. Can anyone speak to the veracity of the analog bandwidth claim?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379175",
"author": "Patrick",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T00:53:12",
"content": "Analog bandwidth can be higher or lower than Nyquist – it’s just a measure of how much is lost before the ADC. With only 72 MSa/s, you’re mainly limited by the digitization, but if you band-limit the signal from 36 MHz to 72 MHz you could just work in the second Nyquist zone if the analog bandwidth is that high.That said I’d bet they just overdesigned the front end.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379185",
"author": "hat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T01:23:49",
"content": "@Patrick & DanJThey are probably achieving 72 MHz analog bandwidth using a technique called “equivalent time sampling”, in which the samples that make up a waveform on the screen actually come from different triggering events. In my experience, ET sampling is really, really annoying to use compared to real-time sampling–you really have to be much more careful about setting up the scope parameters instead of just trusting that the trace on the screen is an accurate representation of the signal you are probing. The problem boils down to the fact that the signal is usually not exactly the same at each trigger event, so (especially with a complex waveform) the image you see on the screen tends to be a lie.Basically, this scope will be useful to about 10 MHz for general-purpose stuff, and a skilled operator might be able to drive it to 72 MHz under the right conditions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379193",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T01:50:02",
"content": "-2 Units in stock…Ooooh! Someone oversold!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379194",
"author": "Philippe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T01:50:12",
"content": "@hatI’m not sure how you get to 10MHz. That’s only 7.2 samples per cycle. I tried to draw a proper sine curve with only 7 points, and it was ugly…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379241",
"author": "hat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T02:07:54",
"content": "@Philippe,You’ll notice that I used the word ‘about.’ Most ‘real’ scopes aim for 10 points per Hz of real-time bandwidth. You can actually get away with only 2.5 samples per cycle with sinc(x) interpolation, but you’d better have a really good anti-aliasing filter on the analog front end.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379242",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T02:10:17",
"content": "beginners don’t get fooled, open source in no way make up for such toy-like performance. Chinease now producing something you can really measure with in similar price range",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379301",
"author": "Andrew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T04:54:28",
"content": "@therianWould it be too much trouble for you to post a link, where we can buy this better product?Or are you just blowing smoke?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379302",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T05:17:34",
"content": "@Andrew. You’re welcome",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379363",
"author": "doragasu",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T06:33:07",
"content": "Impressive. $199 is a bit too much for me, but I’m thinking in buying one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379384",
"author": "pickles",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T07:31:55",
"content": "@DanJThe schematic on the wiki is in a rar file renamed to zip.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379389",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T07:49:16",
"content": "@therian might be referring to the much discussed DS1052 from Rigol which is a little over 300. If someone can spend the money, i recommend the rigol. It’s a real scope, not quite a toy like this.I would buy this one here only if the price was half…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379392",
"author": "Andrew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T07:55:29",
"content": "If therian is referring to the Rigol then it’s not a similar price range is it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379445",
"author": "egasimus",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T11:13:44",
"content": "2MB USB stick? You sure about that?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379490",
"author": "qwerty",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T13:12:40",
"content": "Now someone please give one of those to Dave Jones athttp://www.eevblog.com. A Scope simply doesn’t exist until Dave reviews it.Just kidding, but I love Dave’s style ad would like to hear from him about that scope.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379505",
"author": "JDN",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T13:52:33",
"content": "It does seem like an expensive toy, however it could be quite adequate in some circumstances. What I like about it is that it resembles a PDA. I do contract work in facilities that have strict policies (read: paperwork) for bringing in gear, and more for taking it out again. Doesn’t apply though to cell phones and PDAs, and most security personnel couldn’t tell the difference with this kit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379536",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T15:24:21",
"content": "Does anyone know where to get scope probes with a 1/8″ TRS plug? I think that is what this uses. As much as I want to chop up one of my own, I don’t want any high frequency issues. And I don’t really know the proper way to connect the coaxial cable from a probe to a TRS plug. I’d imagine at higher frequencies the typical way of doing it would cause some issues.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379714",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T21:40:17",
"content": "@fallen you will not see any high frequency (3-30 Mhz)anyways, so you actually want to block them or else data will cause hair-pulling and head injuries",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379819",
"author": "reboots",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T01:56:00",
"content": "@Fallen, the DSO Quad probes use an MCX connector:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MCX_connectorTRS is not suitable for RF.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "380943",
"author": "signal7",
"timestamp": "2011-04-15T19:44:20",
"content": "I’ve been following the development of this and I, like others, have some difficulty in getting behind it. I have a softDSP scope that works nice (for the work that I do). A DS1052E would be a nice upgrade in my situation.The one thing going for this is it’s size and portability. Some automotive applications could justify getting one, but I don’t do enough of that work to make it worthwhile, unfortunately.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "412365",
"author": "Randy",
"timestamp": "2011-07-02T07:05:39",
"content": "The DSO nano is not a toy its an impressive little scope. It samples in real time. It does have limitations, as does any scope. I own a Picoscope, which is one of the best you can buy. But the nano has a big buffer for its size. Buffer means just as much as the sample rate in a DSO",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.310795
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/12/led-build-monitor-helps-keep-an-eye-on-your-servers/
|
LED Build Monitor Helps Keep An Eye On Your Servers
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"LED Hacks",
"Software Development"
] |
[
"atmega",
"development",
"led",
"programming",
"status"
] |
In his line of work, Hackaday reader [Pedantite] often has to monitor the build status of several continuous integration servers throughout the day. One afternoon, he got the idea to install a set of stop lights in the office in order to monitor the status of the servers, but filed it away as a “wouldn’t it be cool if…” project.
After some time had passed, he was bitten by the idea bug again and decided he would
build a physical device to display the status of his build processes
. This time around, he brainstormed on a smaller scale and the result is the “Indictron” you see above.
He built a simple LED board made up of four rows of four LEDs to display the build processes. Different LEDs are lit depending on the project’s current build status as well as the results of the previous build. The board uses an ATmega88, and interfaces with a compiler watchdog application using a virtual USB package made specifically for AVR micro controllers.
The end result is a simple, yet useful status board that “just works”. He does not seem to have code or schematics posted on his site at the moment, but we’re pretty sure he would share them upon request.
If you’re interested in a bit more of [Pedantite’s] work, check out his
“Good Times” parental timer
we featured last week.
| 7
| 7
|
[
{
"comment_id": "379071",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:16:46",
"content": "Nice – I have had a similar idea before to monitor server statuses. Clean build, serves its purpose well! Would love to see schematics or an arduino version :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379072",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:18:03",
"content": "Does it have a heartbeat feature in case the line gets dropped then it can error out in some way or otherwise alert the operator? Nothing sucks more than thinking things are up when they are not but the message never got updated to tell you it was down.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379119",
"author": "Hunter",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T22:22:18",
"content": "That is so 1st Gen Star Trek!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379124",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T22:35:40",
"content": "Segment (progress bar) leds or RGB would suit this purpose as well. Looks cool, now to put it into a star trek console…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379272",
"author": "Pedantite",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T03:38:32",
"content": "I’ll see if I can whip up a simple schematic.(eventually :)) Typically, my design process is a combination of: marked up datasheet(especially the pin description page), a breadboard or two, a volt meter/scope, and a hand-sketched layout on scrap paper. For circuits like this that are pretty simple that usually works. If I’m unsure about something, I mock it up in spice. It’s a little old school, but more fun.There is a heartbeat feature, at least on the AVR side. If I don’t get a “ping” message from the PC after 15 seconds, the AVR goes into “idle mode”, and turns off all lights.On the Windows side, each project is polled in a separate thread. There seems to be issues with .Net remoting where a remote call can hang for up to a minute if the server is down. I monitor each thread externally, so the main UI stays responsive. If the main thread doesn’t get an update from the polling thread within 10 seconds, I assume the server is offline, and just turn off all lights.Thanks for the Star Trek complements, I didn’t even think of that. I like how 5mm LED’s have the “old timey” look. I considered RGB LEDS, but didn’t like how they turned out on a different project I did prior to this one, and they wouldn’t have saved me much work.-P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379453",
"author": "wardy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T11:21:38",
"content": "Simple but genuinely useful. Cool hack.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379631",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T19:07:23",
"content": "@CutThroughStuffGuy Why would you bother with an Arduino? The Arduino costs, what, $30? That AVR is $3 plus a few little diodes and a USB port.I did something similar with an AVR when I built a chording keyboard… a few diodes, resistors, a scavenged USB cable, and the buttons themselves. I’d smack anybody who asked about an Arduino version, because the Arduino board wouldn’t have fit inside the enclosure!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.027474
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/12/homebrew-z80-computer-inspires-awe/
|
Homebrew Z80 Computer Inspires Awe
|
Brian Benchoff
|
[
"classic hacks",
"hardware"
] |
[] |
How this one missed us, we’ll never know.
[GG] built himself a retro-styled
Z80 nanocomputer
over two years using all 1980’s tech. Laid out on one of the largest pieces of perfboard we’ve ever seen on a project, the computer uses a vintage Z80 CPU running at 2.5MHz, 8K ROM, 16K RAM, RS-232 and Parallel ports, an EPROM burner, and an AM95 math coprocessor for 32-bit floating point arithmetic.
We’ve seen a few
homebrew computers
before, including a Z80
laptop
, but this blows them away. For his computer, [GG] created 8BASIC, A Basic interpreter that makes best use of the six 7-segment displays and eight 16-segment displays. The display isn’t really a limitation because [GG] also put together something in Visual Basic so his PC can communicate with his nanocomputer.
[GG] even went so far as to include error detection on the ROM and RAM, as well as an on-board power supply. If you can’t admire the dedication that went into this, at least admire the great
wire porn
. We’re just sad [GG] never did a proper write-up of his project. He could certainly teach us all something.
Video of [GG]’s work after the jump.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HA3dGrgC_Q&W=470]
| 30
| 29
|
[
{
"comment_id": "379029",
"author": "1000100 1000001 1010110 1000101",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:16:31",
"content": "Damn.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379037",
"author": "bp",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:35:40",
"content": "I want to touch it…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379043",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:39:56",
"content": "On the one hand… this is fricking awesome. I mean, the dedication to understand it, the time spent on it… to design it, to assemble it, to debug it, brilliant. It’s almost a work of art.The fact remains though that you can pretty much buy this entire SOC for something like $2. And could do so 10+ years ago.Or buy one that is 3 – 5 orders of magnitude better for $50 or less.So as a technical achievement, this is outstanding. It is a great learning tool. But as a practical endeavor… I have to hold back some praise.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379046",
"author": "CodeAsm",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:44:17",
"content": ":P Wauw, Thats what I like to build one day.+1000…000 points and more goodies for him.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379049",
"author": "Phil",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:51:58",
"content": "Amazing. But after all that …. Visual Basic?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379051",
"author": "devpac",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:56:14",
"content": "@CutThroughStuffGuyre: practical endevourIf you’d ever done a lot of work with the Z80, you’d understand how much it gets under your skin – hence all the Z80 based computers that people keep hacking up – they’re labours of love!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379054",
"author": "Johannes",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:58:31",
"content": "Wow. Just wow!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379055",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:04:40",
"content": "Sweet!Video fail on HaD’s part though, the right 1/3rd of the video is cut off by the page separator!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379094",
"author": "Jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:44:19",
"content": "you should figure out how to integrate just one of those little black rectangles off some modern day RAM, see what happens",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379097",
"author": "Magnet18",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:51:09",
"content": "zomg, that’s insane",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379098",
"author": "Troy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:52:21",
"content": "Beautiful, admittedly not practical but who cares? Worrying about the practicality means you’ve missed the point.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379099",
"author": "Jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:53:28",
"content": "Thanks to my web filtering software, I couldn’t view this page because it didn’t say pr0n. thanks alot, HaD.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379127",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T22:47:53",
"content": "What a beautiful build!So cool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379150",
"author": "Stonehamian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T23:02:26",
"content": "What a neat looking project!I always wanted to do that someday.One strange thing I find is that a Z80 is used with none of its usual support chips (Z80 PIO, Z80 CTC, Z80 DART, etc.) and mostly Intel support chips. So no native daisy-chained, vectored hardware interrupts then?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379158",
"author": "anti-fanboi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T23:47:09",
"content": "Perfboard FTW!!!!@CutThroughStuffGuy: Those that can, do. Those that can’t, Arduino. Glad to see you’re kinda starting to get it… kinda.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379160",
"author": "qwerty",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T23:49:45",
"content": "This brings memories… How beautiful!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379162",
"author": "Microguy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T23:53:37",
"content": "That’s pretty similar to what I’m working on. Same displays (and more) etc… Very close. Except mine will be on a PCB (over several cards) and in a STD-bus format.But yeah, it does get under your skin. I’ve been working with them for decades…. And I still love doing it!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379182",
"author": "jim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T01:03:37",
"content": "Although it is literally killing me that he put 80’s and not 80s :3",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379262",
"author": "Pilotgeek",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T03:03:45",
"content": "@Phil – Without the “Visual” part. You can do quite a lot with Basic…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379280",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T03:56:11",
"content": "Not practical in itself, but a mighty fine addition to anyones CV….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379282",
"author": "Steven",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T04:00:30",
"content": "@ jim, how does the mistake the author made made by putting “80’s” bother you so much when you claimed that it was “literally” killing you? Does anyone else see the irony in that?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379286",
"author": "ThorstenS",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T04:09:27",
"content": "infuckincredible!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379353",
"author": "Sodor",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T06:01:01",
"content": "THIS IS BEATIFUL!!!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379503",
"author": "Paul Potter",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T13:50:39",
"content": "Pure awesome. Somebody needs to put these into production.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "379610",
"author": "invader21",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T18:12:55",
"content": "Agreed. These kneed to be mass produced for everyday N00Bs like me to tinker with and learn a basic codeing language other than xHTML",
"parent_id": "379503",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "379545",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T15:40:57",
"content": "@CutThroughStuffGuy My guess is that he wanted a Z80. It isn’t about practical. Some people like making stuff. It is probably a lot more practical to buy just about anything than to make it. I mean just how practical was the CRAY 1 built from a FPGA? It wasn’t at all but it was so cool. And if nothing else think of the pride he gets from this and what he must have learned. I would say no holding back is needed.So does anyone know of SOC that runs CP/M?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379596",
"author": "cantido",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T17:47:25",
"content": "@lwatcdrIIRC Toshiba have/had a series of Z80 compatibles that has most of the standard external Z80 peripherals ..http://www.mct.net/product/z80mini3.htmlI think they are pretty hard to get though. I guess you could get CP/M running if you tried though. You can run a z80 emulator on a Prop and run CP/M on that though… ;)@threadNice build, not sure why people are pissing their pants about it though. It’s not incredibly hard to build a little Z80 machine. His software is the impressive part, not the fact that he can solder wires to chips.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379865",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T04:01:32",
"content": "Honestly, this is a good exercise but nothing particularly amazing. Building a basic computer around a 8085 (which is quite similar to the Z80) and provide a basic OS (written in assembler) was a subject requirement when I studied for my electronics technician degree in the late 1980s. Really, it is not something too challenging. I am pretty sure that people doing engineering degrees achieved much more advanced projects.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379937",
"author": "fermin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T07:16:07",
"content": "Just anote, it’s not 2.5MHz, but 2.5 Hz (no Mega)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "388914",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-05-01T20:34:18",
"content": "It actually is mega. And he’s probably underclocking it at only 2.5Mhz. 4-8Mhz is more common for a DIP Z80 afaik.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.476117
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/12/dishwasher-notifier-for-the-absent-minded/
|
Dishwasher Notifier For The Absent-minded
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"home hacks"
] |
[
"555 timer",
"dishwasher",
"over-engineered",
"thermistor"
] |
[Quinn] over at BlondiHacks is admittedly pretty absent-minded when it comes to household chores such as emptying the dishwasher. She often can’t remember if the dishes are dirty or ready to be put away, so she decided it was time to devise a mechanism that would help keep her on task. She originally considered a double-sided sign that said “Clean” on one side, “Dirty” on the other, but she chose the fun option and
decided to over-engineer the problem instead
.
She ultimately focused on two conditions that she needed to monitor: when the dishwasher had been run, and when the dishes have been emptied. To tackle the first condition, she used a thermistor to detect when the door of the dishwasher got hot from the wash cycle. The second wasn’t quite as easy, since she often peeks into the dishwasher to grab a clean dish when needed, unloading the rest later. She eventually settled on using a tilt switch to monitor the angle of the door, assuming that the dishes have been removed if the door was open for over a minute.
[Quinn] reports that her Dish-o-Tron 6000 works well, and she had a good time building it. Sure the whole thing is kind of overkill, but where’s the fun in moderation?
| 28
| 28
|
[
{
"comment_id": "379013",
"author": "scumdog",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:35:58",
"content": "It doesn’t wirelessly tweet status, or use any micros? I’d say it’s not quite enough overkill yet.I like this one though. Clean design and build, for something that could easily be done with a magnet or other indicator.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379014",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:36:16",
"content": "THIS IS A COMPLETE WASTE OF TIME.I love it. ;)-Taylor",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379018",
"author": "Ken",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:41:04",
"content": "Idea stolen, will implement this weekend – thanks.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379022",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:52:51",
"content": "I know that hacks don’t need to have a purpose, but — are you serious? You don’t need to “remember” if the dishes are clean, you just look at them. It takes about 3 seconds. And as for knowing when the cycle is done — is the dishwasher making noise? If yes the cycle isn’t done yet.I just fail to see how anyone, anywhere could actually consider “figuring out if the dishes are clean and if the dishwasher is still running” to be a big enough problem that it needed a complicated electronic solution…which is mounted on the door anyway so you have to be in front of the dishwasher to interact with it in the first place!This is such an incredible waste that it feels like some sort of april fool’s joke or overblown trolling attempt.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379025",
"author": "Stefan Biereigel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:59:53",
"content": "macw: “A hack is never obsolete or useless” – and now repeat that for about 100 times.You’ll get why it’s worth having!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379026",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:01:00",
"content": "@macw: Welcome to Hackaday.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379027",
"author": "TrollAWay",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:03:12",
"content": "macw, I only see one troll here.*looks up at macw’s comment and rolls eyes*",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379033",
"author": "andar_b",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:32:32",
"content": "@macwThere are thousands of people out there, if not many more, who for reasons unknown, simply don’t remember to empty the dishwasher when it needs it. Still more who pre-wash the dishes well enough to make it difficult to tell if they’ve been run yet. I know there are lots of things that are more traumatic than finding crud in the bottom of your coffee cup when you’ve already finished the coffee, but it’s annoying.I applaud [Quinn] and wonder why this feature isn’t built in! Many microwaves beep until you actually get up and grab your food, thus preventing you from forgetting to eat it, a variant of this idea would be great at getting me to empty the dishwasher.Incidentally, I hate emptying the dishwasher worse than cleaning the litterbox and doing laundry combined. I don’t know why.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379035",
"author": "hpux735",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:33:21",
"content": "Given how ridiculously unnecessary this hack is, I think I can safely say that BY FAR my favorite part is that the old palm case, painted white, looks just like a dishwasher! THAT is art! Far more than some dumb spray-paint printer bicycle or something. It’s a microcosm of the greater dishwasher whole. or some crap. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379036",
"author": "andar_b",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:33:29",
"content": "Another problem I just remembered. If you make a habit of taking clean dishes out of the dishwasher but leaving some of them in there, sometimes someone will put dirty dishes in amongst them.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379039",
"author": "Olivier",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:36:34",
"content": "WTF, I see two 555, while Quinn could have just use a single arduino. What’s wrong with her.jk, cool device, that I won’t replicate for now as I don’t have a dishwasher.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379044",
"author": "Trav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:40:50",
"content": "Sweet….I love how the case even looks like an old style dishwasher…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379048",
"author": "charliex",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:51:51",
"content": "hey quinn !! :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379052",
"author": "Philippe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:57:15",
"content": "Funny. My dishwasher has an indicator that almost does that. I found it very smart.When the cycle is complete (it has its own set of indicators so I know it is running), this indicator comes on and doesn’t come off until you lock the door again.So basically, make sure you don’t lock the door again until you have completely emptied the clean dishwasher (the door doesn’t need to be locked to stay closed.)Once it’s completely empty, lock the door.Light on? Dishes clean.Light off? Dishes dirty.I think it’s much simpler to implement, but as (pretty much) everybody here, I love an over-engineered hack. Thank you Quinn! ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379061",
"author": "Ratty",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:12:00",
"content": "I like that she thinks two 555s is over-complicated, when someone less experienced could easily use two arduinos to do so much less.A daft question, but does anyone know what kind of blue LED that is? It’s brightness looks comparable to regular red and amber ones, rather than the ridiculous super-bright blues in everything at the moment. I want to snag a few.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379148",
"author": "Squirrel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T23:00:55",
"content": "I’d’ve called it the Dish-o-tron 1110",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379165",
"author": "Calis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T00:07:01",
"content": "Awesome. When I was a kid, all we had was a magnet that you flipped over to designate dirty or clean.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379169",
"author": "anti-fanboi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T00:24:03",
"content": "@Ratty: Gold!Like?http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=67-1751-ND",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379250",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T02:31:23",
"content": "0. With most dishwashers, you can see if there’s soap in it, e.g. because the soap-holder lid is closed or there’s powder or gooky liquid soap around it.1. If there’s soap in it, it’s dirty, and you may put dirty dishes in if they fit. If it’s full, maybe run it.2. If there isn’t soap in it, it’s clean, and you may take clean dishes out, but may not put dirty dishes in.3. If there isn’t soap, and it’s empty, you can put soap in it and GOTO 1.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379257",
"author": "gcat122",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T02:53:11",
"content": "@macw & billI see what you are saying. It just does not fit our situation.I have 4 people that randomly remove dishes.2 that prewash but do not rinse the soap off.3 that do not remember to check the dispenser for status.Zero that are awake when it runs.No lock to show status.A status light (CLEAN) that turns off at the first touch of the door.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379261",
"author": "gcat122",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T03:02:12",
"content": "Continued:Zero persons that want to empty the clean items.No ferrous surface to slap a magnet on.And a computer control that forgets if it wasrunning or finished!I love the case.Time to build on with a touch screen and rinse water analyzer.Nice build!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379472",
"author": "James",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T12:23:49",
"content": "Our dishwasher tells you when it’s done on teh front, and when you open it to empty it you turn the power off. Right? :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379504",
"author": "Rich Bailey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T13:51:59",
"content": "A feature like this may seem useless but I see it as just another step in a larger picture. I imagine a central house computer wired to every outlet in the house with a small extra data port for appliances. Then appliances can register with the house computer and feed it back information like the current state of the dishes or if your stove is on.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379518",
"author": "walt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T14:30:45",
"content": "loooove the name",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379680",
"author": "dan fruzzetti",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T20:47:03",
"content": "I submitted a very similar idea as a feature to Kenmore, who as expected ignored my suggestion.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "384747",
"author": "Quinn Dunki",
"timestamp": "2011-04-22T22:25:43",
"content": "Gosh, who’d have thought a silly thing I built for fun would create such controversy.Anyways, thanks for all the warm fuzzy thoughts everyone!I didn’t realize this was posted here until just now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "384774",
"author": "Quinn Dunki",
"timestamp": "2011-04-23T00:00:39",
"content": "Hey everyone! Some additional follow-up…Regarding the blue LED, it actually is a ton brighter than the red one. I’ve got a 5k load on it, and it’s still twice as bright. I call that a feature, though. It draws your attention to the fact that work needs to be done in the area.Someone mentioned that it’s no better than a sign because you still have to interact with it. Actually, the whole idea is it’s completely automated and requires no internal knowledge of the machine or effort from the user. You just slap it on the door and forget about it. The problem with a sign (for me) is that you have to remember to flip it. There’s still room for absentminded error there. I wanted something that took me out of the loop completely. :)Also, if anyone is seriously going to build it, I’ve made some changes which I haven’t had a chance to document yet. I removed the transistor labelled “timer enable”, and switched to TTL 555s (circuit is designed for CMOS). I also put an 820pF cap in the signal line from the lower 555’s output to the upper 555’s reset. Those changes all combined fixed some glitches it was having. Occasionally it would miss a state change, or would spontaneously lose the Clean state. It seems much more solid now. I haven’t seen a bug since these changes went in. I’ll be revising the schematic and posting a “rev B” design on my website.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "384775",
"author": "Quinn Dunki",
"timestamp": "2011-04-23T00:03:20",
"content": "Also, hi charlie! :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.723151
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/12/prototyping-with-a-gps-module/
|
Prototyping With A GPS Module
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"gps hacks"
] |
[
"ATmega32",
"fv-m8",
"san jose navigation",
"serial"
] |
[Oneironaut] is
trying out a new GPS module
with the prototype seen above. It’s a San Jose Navigation device identified as
FV-M8 and sold by Sparkfun
for just under a hundred bucks. That’s it hanging off the bottom-right of the breadboard seen above. They’ve packed a lot of power into the small footprint, and made it very easy to control at the same time. Although the device is fully configurable, you can start grabbing serial data from it just by connecting a single data line, 3.3V, and ground.
[Oneironaut] tests it out by streaming the serial data to a character LCD screen, then comparing the output to his handheld Garmin GPS device. You can see him describe his ATmega32-based test platform in the video after the break. We’re used to seeing
spy-tech for most of his projects
and this will eventually join those ranks. He’s thinking of putting together a magnetic tracking module that plays nicely with Google Earth.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoMaAdQsGSE&w=470]
| 16
| 16
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378987",
"author": "deathventure",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T18:32:17",
"content": "you can get cheapy usb gps units from ebay for around 15 bucks. They tend to use serial to usb bridge chips so you can probably hook directly to the gps unit itself bypassing the usb if need be for a much cheaper price",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378996",
"author": "lg",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T18:57:34",
"content": "yeah, $99.95 for a gps receiver is exorbitant. cool project though, would love to see it done with a cheap gps receiver.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379007",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:23:09",
"content": "Close to 100 bucks it is damn expensive for just a module.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379015",
"author": "Philippe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:36:42",
"content": "Sure Electronics sells a very nice GPS+bluetooth evaluation board for 35$.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379088",
"author": "Oneironaut",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:31:14",
"content": "Thanks for posting my project!Yes indeed, the FV-M8 GPS module is an expensive unit, but it is sure nice to work with. Gets a lock in 45 seconds (basement or car), and spews out NMEA strings at 5 per second. I did try the el-cheapo unit, but did not have much luck with it. This module beats my Garmin handheld!I am going to try a GPS controlled all-terrain robot on my property this summer, so the fast rate and accuracy “should” keep my 500 pound robot out of the ditch.Brad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379128",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T22:47:57",
"content": "Check out the modules from here for example:http://www.gtop-tech.com. They use very good chips by MediaTek and also offer 5Hz refresh rate etc.I’ve made a test board for FGPMMOSL3 (paid 20$ per chip) and it is very simple and can be done with very few components. The chip can provide power directly to an active antenna which you can get for 5$ a piece. Also supports DGPS and everything else that particular module shows. Same sensitivity and accuracy.So I don’t get the ridiculously powerful part in the Sparkfun text. And especially not that price.Then if you look at the Gmm-u5LP from GlobalTop, 66 Channels -165 dBm Tracking (typical) and up to 10Hz refresh rate you are in bit different waters already.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379303",
"author": "error404",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T05:19:35",
"content": "Can someone explain why some GPS receivers advertise more than 16 channels? From the surface, you’ll only ever see say 12 satellites at most. A couple extra channels to track sats that should be coming into view soon maybe, but there aren’t even 66 in the entire constellation and probably never will be.Not denying it’s probably a great receiver, but what’s up with this? Do the prospective buyers for this (ie. electrical engineers) really buy into that sort of claim?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379358",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T06:12:11",
"content": "GPS for “just under $100” is simply crazy! you can get new tiny GPS receiver for $10-$15 fromhttp://www.m2m-com.com…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379552",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T15:52:24",
"content": "Having more channels can enable faster aquisition as there are more free channels to lock new satellites to. I agree that 66 is overkill and is not required.Mainly I wanted to paste the sensitivity value on that particular chipset.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379554",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T15:54:39",
"content": "One good explanation I saw was: “The reason for 65 channels is the initial cold-start search when it has no idea where any satellite might be (or its doppler shift, etc.). There may only be a dozen needles ever visible, but they are scattered in a haystack with a thousand slots.”When using AGPS this matters less.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379692",
"author": "MS3FGX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T21:05:26",
"content": "It seems like everything on SparkFun is ridiculously overpriced. Like already said, you can source GPS modules for ~$15 elsewhere.It would be a real hard case to make that the performance and quality difference (if any) makes up for the $85 price hike.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379702",
"author": "error404",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T21:13:15",
"content": "@Elias:Ah that does make sense, thanks. Cold starts are obnoxiously slow on the 8-channel Motorola Oncore receivers I’ve been experimenting with in timing applications (10s of minutes sometimes, though my sky view is also pretty poor).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379844",
"author": "GPS For Car",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T02:54:11",
"content": "Idea is good, design not so good and definitely no value for money for this GPS module.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379955",
"author": "Pawan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T08:16:43",
"content": "Any pointer where can I buy a device under hundred bucks having both the GPS and GSM modules (with a controller to run my program)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "380313",
"author": "tz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T20:24:28",
"content": "http://www.dl9sec.de/venus6/venus6.htm$100 EVK board, $100 SDK.20Hz out of the box, 10Hz from the SDK, but the chip itself has UART and I2C – I’ve just attached a J1850 ATTiny2313 via I2C from my harley so it emits private NMEA like messages.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "454779",
"author": "Rachal",
"timestamp": "2011-09-14T01:56:20",
"content": "where can I buy a device under hundred bucks",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.858461
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/12/geohot-case-settlement/
|
Geohot Case Settlement
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Playstation Hacks"
] |
[
"geohot",
"georgehotz",
"playstation",
"ps3"
] |
It looks like Sony and [George Hotz]
have reached an out-of-court settlement
in the case brought against the hacker who is more well-known as [Geohot].
This is the end (we think) of an ongoing saga that
originally drew our ire
when Sony removed OtherOS support as a sledge-hammer-type fix for holes that [Geohot] found in the security system used by PlayStation 3 hardware. Our beef with that move is that it punished people who bought a PS3 knowing that it could run Linux natively, only to have that rug retroactively pulled out from under them. [Geohot] then went on to publish details that allow those with the proper skills to leave a smoldering pile of slag where Sony’s hardware security used to reside.
They slapped him with a lawsuit for publishing those details. This settlement doesn’t have him admitting any wrongdoing. We’re not going to editorialize on the morals or ethics of [George’s] actions, but we do still think that Sony greatly overreacted at several points along this unfortunate string of events.
[Thanks Buggs187]
| 49
| 39
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378948",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:14:02",
"content": "Nice graphic lol.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378952",
"author": "Jarret",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:18:30",
"content": "The back and fourth that Sony participates in with hackers/modders is ridiculous for a company the size of Sony. The only people really being punished are the consumers. That said, I don’t see Sony as the big bad guy in this situation.. that title belongs to the DMCA.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378956",
"author": "Jakezilla",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:22:23",
"content": "“We’re not going to editorialize…” lol",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378958",
"author": "zlwilly",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:28:22",
"content": "After skimming the comments made by common Sony fanboys on the Sony link you posted, I’m actually very disgusted with the general populous. There are a lot of very, very stupid people out there, and this re-realization gets me every time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378960",
"author": "Necromant",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:30:38",
"content": "So, I guess I’ll just vote with my wallet and do not buy anything from that retarded company any more… Hm… wait, I but already don’t have anything from Sony… Haha, so let it be so!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378963",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:38:26",
"content": "The thing that gets me is that Sony keeps making stupid decision after stupid decision. Memorystick? What uses those now? SD became the standard. Betamax? CRVdiscs? The Walkman was at least something Sony pretty much got right but it had no DRM and was truly a better product for its time.Sony has a history of making technically brilliant things and then royally screwing them up by imposing arcane DRM and other restrictions that prevent the mass adoption of said invention.Not only that, but the hacker community manages to break all of the things Sony tries to build into said things to prevent such hackery to begin with. In short, they screw their customers and then they screw themselves. And they do it time and time again. You would think they would have learned by now but they keep making money so *shrug* – let them keep screwing up I guess.There is a reason Android is flourishing as much as it is against Apple.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378973",
"author": "Tyler",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:48:10",
"content": "…People actually BACKED UP SONY ON THIS?! And the sad fact is I know it cannot just be a bunch of astroturfing because there are people that stupid to think removing key features count as an upgrade… certainly explains things like Sony’s success even with their OCD control issues along with Apple’s god complex when it comes to their stuff…. Now if only somebody could tell me the reasoning behind letting people jailbreak or root their phones and preventing people from doing the same to their legally owned consoles.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378974",
"author": "localroger",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:56:27",
"content": "For the record, Betamax was not really a mistake, and Sony was actually the hero of the Jack Valenti / MPAA attempt to make VCR’s illegal. It was the president of Sony who decided a cartridge should be kept to the size of a paperback book. It was JVC though which realized that the ability to record an entire football game would be a milestone, and made a larger cartridge with an inferior low-quality format to support this. Right to the end Betamax users said the quality and reliability were better than VHS, but VHS won for marketing reasons.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378983",
"author": "Olivier",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T18:22:41",
"content": "@Necromant : I just have a Sony video cam that I bought some months before the LikSang case. Since then, I haven’t bought and I’ll never ever buy anything from Sony.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3203988",
"author": "CMH62",
"timestamp": "2016-09-18T00:35:21",
"content": "I bought exactly three Sony products over about 20 years: a Walkman, a Hi-8mm video camera, and a DVD player. All three failed in one way or another within 1-2 years of purchase, outside of warranty.I’m not a gamer but if I ever do go down that path, I’ll be buying an XBox, NOT a PlayStation.",
"parent_id": "378983",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "378985",
"author": "SP",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T18:30:49",
"content": "Last time i had to buy new headphones… and the choice was between sony and another brand.You guess what I choose.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "563864",
"author": "reason",
"timestamp": "2012-01-21T04:20:54",
"content": "The sony?",
"parent_id": "378985",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "378994",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T18:50:34",
"content": "I agree that Betamax was a technologically superior format. Sony had to take the position they did against the MPAA and I am glad they did because it preserved the right of the people to use their own technology in ways that make good sense. But who actually thinks that memory stick was a good idea?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379005",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:17:13",
"content": "Geohot screwed over a lot of people on both sides. He said he would demand for OtherOS to be brought back as part of the settlement and then asked for donations to help with legal fees. Thousands of people donated to him and in the end he gave up on the fight and never got those demands met. Now hundreds of thousands of people are mad at him for just settling this suit.What a lot of idiots seem to think is that geohot’s actions enabled piracy and cheating online, which is not true. There was cheating online before geohot even touched a PS3, and it was PSJailbreak that set out to enable piracy. Geohot has always taken a stance against piracy and even went as far as to make his CFW have an extra step that made it harder for people to play backed up games.The public is really stupid, and geohot is a back stabber.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379006",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:18:52",
"content": "I have already decided some time ago to boycott Sony and this doesn’t change that for a bit.Only way to punish a company like Sony is to make masses not buy their products.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3205001",
"author": "Christopher",
"timestamp": "2016-09-18T14:25:01",
"content": "I boycotted Sony way back when I learned that their CD players would only playback Sony CD-Rs. Whether they changed that or not, it was enough to disgust me.",
"parent_id": "379006",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3208538",
"author": "Martin",
"timestamp": "2016-09-21T13:45:32",
"content": "AFAIK Sony CD Players from some years did not play any CD-R. But the ones from before the invention of the CD-R do just fine. I own a model from early 1990ies (which was really expensive these times, especially for me as a student), but it plays – and still plays – CD-Rs. Although I do not use it very much in the last years, as a harddisk full of music is more convenient.",
"parent_id": "3205001",
"depth": 3,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "379023",
"author": "TheRatatat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:55:09",
"content": "The only reason I enjoyed the PS3 not being hacked was because I could reasonably expect I was on an equal playing field with other players while online gaming. Its frustrating that people would rather scam game companies out of compensation and resort to annoying hacks to cheat at games. (Besides hardware hacks of course)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379047",
"author": "Morgauxo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:46:18",
"content": "After reading all the Sony fanboi comments I can definitely understand the ‘the public is stupid’ sentiment. I don’t know about Geohot being a ‘backstabber’ though. I’m sorry but anyone who actually believed that Geohot by himself ever had a chance to make Sony reverse it’s decision is as much living in their own reality as the Sony fanbois.On the other hand… if someone tried to make the point that Geohot has his own intelligence issues… that I would buy. Sure, the guy is a genius in one sense to have broken the key in the first place but all his mental abilities must be weighed towards hacking with little brain devoted to common sense. He never should have taken on Sony so openly. A smarter person would have driven to a cafe in a town far far away to which he had no connections just to use Tor and post that stuff anonymously. I’d even go so far as to leave the cellphone at home and pay for everything in cash along the way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379057",
"author": "alex",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:09:23",
"content": "I acctualy was rooting for this idiot, and again bitchboy bitches up. Takes donations, has anonymus on his side and the little bitch settles. And on top of that he is actually talking about boucotting sony….ARE YOU POOPING ME DUDE. I had mad respect for him but he never seases to diSapoint.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379078",
"author": "johnson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:22:30",
"content": "I will decide where I’ll buy my next gaming console!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379079",
"author": "Harvey Birdman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:22:39",
"content": "The same DMCA that Sony uses to ruin the lives of kids who download music also states that it is a felony to cause any computing device to operate code without the consent of the owner.Since PS3s are sold, Sony is not the owner.When Sony forces code without the owners’ consent, that is a felony.Other people have already gone to prison for doing what Sony has done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "2841543",
"author": "murdock",
"timestamp": "2015-12-17T19:54:43",
"content": "There is probably something about surrendering total control of your playstation in the terms and agreements that nobody reads.",
"parent_id": "379079",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "379101",
"author": "Merrick",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:55:32",
"content": "Sony has made some excellent products like Betamax but they tried to control it too much and lost to the cheaper VHS plus there was more devices using VHS. They learned their lesson with Blu-ray especially that the PS3 could play them natively like the PS2 for DVD’s(I believe that is what really killed the Dreamcast *sigh*).Now with that said I think Sony is arrogant and thinks it can screw their customers over and get away with it, which so far they are. I love my PS3 and was furious for the loss of other OS support. My PS3 is one of the things I didn’t want to hack but I’ve been tempted because of this. Its the only Sony product I’ve bought since the whole rootkit deal(another thing they got away with)I refuse to pay for Micro$oft products if I don’t have to(I hate that company)but which is the lesser evil(Sega comeback to us)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3206947",
"author": "Fred",
"timestamp": "2016-09-20T02:04:27",
"content": "Nintendo WII…Don’t like micro$haft, so xbox is out, and I havn’t bought anything sony for well over 20 years. I’d had it with that company *long* before the rootkit fiasco (if I did that as an individual, I’d still be in jail… and they got away with it! WTF!). I won’t even buy second hand sony products nowdays.",
"parent_id": "379101",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3206961",
"author": "RW",
"timestamp": "2016-09-20T02:11:34",
"content": "So you’re not pissed that they said it would “support N64 games” then it turned out you had to buy them all over again?",
"parent_id": "3206947",
"depth": 3,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "379198",
"author": "Mr_Stark",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T02:01:02",
"content": "Right, two things:I’m glad Sony hunts these people down. We complain about it now, Sony taking away content (as I also reasonably expected to run an OS) but I’ve always been very happy to load up and know that everybody is playing legit whereas my friend next door, playing the 360, comes over and complains about all the hackers he just went against.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379283",
"author": "Keith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T04:05:54",
"content": "actually, publishing of those bugs and security holes could be some kind of help to sony.because they know the bugs and they just have to fix it to make their system more stronger.got my point? lol",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379291",
"author": "Alan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T04:38:32",
"content": "I havent bought Sony since the rootkit fiasco. But they keep giving me new reasons to not reverse that decision.Sony, if its on your label I can just find it on youtube or do without(and I block the advertising). I buy LG dvd drives instead of yours. When I needed noise canceling headphones, Sennheiser provided good product. Archos makes a nice MP3 player, I dont need to buy yours.Anything you offer I can do without, and I buy top of the line. I figure your stupidity has cost you minimum 2k from me alone, and there are tens of thousands of guys just like me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379300",
"author": "pfargtl",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T04:52:11",
"content": "you know, those old betamax players are an entire partsbin to themselves. i took one a part back in the early 90’s, just an absolute wealth of parts. i seem to recall there being just an insane amount of screws, had to be close to 200 or so, maybe just seems like more than it was, it’s been so long. i dont consider myself a fanboy, but those old sony products were such a joy to take apart, i’m quite certain i’d buy another betamax if ever happen upon one again.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379422",
"author": "Norman Bates",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T09:34:12",
"content": "Alan: “I havent bought Sony since the rootkit fiasco. But they keep giving me new reasons to not reverse that decision. ”Exactly my sentiment..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3203994",
"author": "CMH62",
"timestamp": "2016-09-18T00:41:43",
"content": "+1",
"parent_id": "379422",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "379447",
"author": "Jason",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T11:14:18",
"content": "Sony has probably screwed themselves hard by going after Geohot. Sony reached out to a few people and offered them jobs in hopes to block out the security flaws and because of this those people turned it down. It’s very possible that those people who were aagainst playing backups on the ps3 might actually be more agressive and hack it for that reason.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379464",
"author": "Vampyredh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T11:59:14",
"content": "I sell car audio and video for a living I do the installs the upgrades and the customization.For years and I mean 7 or more I have refused to deal with S.o.n.y. (Some Other Noobs Yearning)Sony has been a bane to mobile audio and video for a long time. I mean after all they do sell some audio products at wally world. Another place I can’t stomach.All I can say is you won’t find a playstation in my house you won’t find a phone t.v. or camera. You can’t find the sony name in my house because they offer horrible products with horrible tech support. And if anyone remembers the sony explode audio line they know that the reason it was called explode was because it did after just a few short months receivers would fry.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379493",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T13:19:38",
"content": "The majority of people in the world are not mad at Sony, but rather they support Sony.We see a skewed view because we visit sites like hackaday. Sony did want they needed to, in order to protect their users and PSN.Personally I say fuck Geohot for creating the mess that has come from his actions. Now there’s tonnes of people ruining PSN with hacked games.About 12 people worldwide were using OtherOS. So lets be realistic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379497",
"author": "mic",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T13:37:16",
"content": "Fail.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379537",
"author": "tristan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T15:24:41",
"content": "So its legal to jailbreak an iPhone but not a ps3? Or is sony in bed with the lawmakers like most other American companies?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379578",
"author": "Lion XL",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T17:01:14",
"content": "Its just as illegal (their term not mine..) an iphone as it is ps3, difference is apple knows better than to openly go after the very people that buy their products…..and for the record, every one that is upset at geohot, donations aside…why don’t one of you sit in his chair!!! AT 19 – 20 yrs he should take on the machine, risk losing and risk losing his freedom and/or financial future for something he probably never should of done in the first place.If you want to be so ballsy, take geohots work rebrand it, re-release it, and then email sony saying I dont care, I’m gonna fight you tooth and nail cuz I BELIEVE!!!! RIGHT!!!! most of the loudest talkers are the biggest cowards and would avoid Geo’s situation like a disease, and I wouldn’t fault them for it. Prison is bad place to be, been there done that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379592",
"author": "iHME",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T17:41:26",
"content": "@pfargtlExactly, I love parting out old sony products.Tons of high quality parts and everything is reasonably easy to take apart.Even the pins of all transistors are labelled.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379843",
"author": "Zetski210",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T02:49:33",
"content": "You have only purchased the right to operate/use a PS3, not the intellectual property of the PS3 itself. Posting information regarding the operation of the system is violating the terms of the purchase. I’m glad Sony chased this idiot down.A PS3 update is optional to install. If you do, you accept their terms and conditions. If you’ve installed an update, then you cannot whinge about what the update does/doesn’t do.If you don’t like it? Don’t buy it!!Simple!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "2842237",
"author": "williamderieux",
"timestamp": "2015-12-18T05:30:18",
"content": "If you’ve installed an update, then you cannot whinge about what the update does/doesn’t do.If you don’t like it? Don’t buy it!!@Zetski210:Eeverything might be great at the beginning – – when you bought it — but then the company [Sony] releases an update that removes functionality that you paid for (or bought specifically because it allowed you to do something).It sounds to me like people chose to buy a PS3 vs another system because it offered something other consoles did not (the ability to run Linux). Now they cannot do this — because Sony updated the code to disallow it.If you were to ask me — Sony only should have only done that to newer PS3 models and not have made it retro-active through firmware update.",
"parent_id": "379843",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "379892",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T05:32:44",
"content": "So… Am I going to get my Ubuntu back on my Ps3? I really miss the most stable computer I’ve ever owned.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379959",
"author": "membrane",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T08:22:49",
"content": "Sony used to be a great company until they got into the media biz and from there they went down hill as the greed associated with the business acted like a slow cancer in the company eating the company from the inside.It was slow at first and then accelerating when idiots like Steve Heckler got on board.http://www.theregister.co.uk/2000/08/23/we_will_block_napster/By 2004 after getting into the music biz the company was rubbish and started doing down right illegal things such as the CD rootkit which is a felony.If there was justice some Sony execs should have done hard time.Really the best thing they could do right now is split the company the save the hardware side and let the media side of the company finish hanging it’s self.Otherwise it can as far as I’m concerned Sony can become yet another dead brand once famous in the 80s and 90s but now history.I have not bought any of their products recently as to be honest they no longer have anything compelling the competition is better now.Why buy their electronics Vizio and Samsung are just as good but cost less.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3208546",
"author": "Martin",
"timestamp": "2016-09-21T13:53:45",
"content": "Yes, thats so true.",
"parent_id": "379959",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "379967",
"author": "membrane",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T08:32:17",
"content": "@Lion XLApple may not be as great a company as it was during the 70s though early 2000s but they are still a better company then Sony is today.I do not support them having the iphone locked but there is some argument in having it be safe but they are not stupid enough to go after and criminalize users who decide to jail break their phones.Apple even has no DRM in their OS not even activation.I’m not an apple fan boy I think the ipad is very over priced for what it is and the imac much to limited in expandability.Heck even Microsoft is better then Sony is now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "380231",
"author": "Rick Keller",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T17:55:22",
"content": "Lion XL, It’s not illegal on an iphone either. There was an actual court ruling on that.There is a license to practice medicine, and a license to drive a car, and those and many other licenses are governed by a licensing body. But there IS NO LICENSING BODY for private products. It is simply a contract with the licensing buzz word thrown in. A contract is a binding agreement between two or more people, and not only is it not valid because it’s not binding on all parties, but it’s not valid because it is not on the price tag when you purchase it.Sony and most of the corporate world are corrupt, and I support anybody that stands against them, although I think they should be smart enough to release the information into the public domain, anonymously.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "380430",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-15T00:38:35",
"content": "donno if this is real or not but the terms of the settlement were leaked….IT IS HEREBY ORDERED AND ADJUDGED by consent of the Parties that Hotz,whether as an individual or as a principal, officer, director or employee of any businessentity, and his agents, servants, employees, distributors, suppliers, representatives and allother persons or entities acting in concert or participation with Hotz who receive notice ofthis Judgment, shall be and hereby are permanently enjoined and restrained from:A. Engaging in any unauthorized access to any SONY PRODUCT under thelaw;B. Engaging in any unauthorized access to any SONY PRODUCT under theterms of any SCEA or SCEA AFFILIATES’ license agreement or terms of useapplicable to that SONY PRODUCT, whether or not Hotz has accepted suchagreement or terms of use, including without limitation:(i) reverse engineering, decompiling, or disassembling any portion of the Sony Product;(ii) using any tools to bypass, disable, or circumvent any encryption,security, or authentication mechanism in the Sony Product;(iii) using any hardware or softare to cause the Sony Product to acceptor use unauthorized, illegal or pirated softare or hardware; and(iv) exploiting any Sony Product to design, develop, update or distributeunauthorized softare or hardware for use with the Sony Product.If any term of such SCEA or SCEA Affilates’ license agreement or terms ofuse applicable to that Sony Product shall be determined by Congress or by acourt of law in a final non-appealable decision in an action to which SCEA oran SCEA Affiliate is a party to be illegal and unenforceable, then such termshall not be binding on Hotz.C. CIRCUMVENTING any of the TPMs or security in any SONY PRODUCT;D. TRAFFICKING in any technology, product, service, device, component, orpart thereof that, at the time of Hotz’s trafficking, circumvents any of theTPMs or security in any SONY PRODUCT, including but not limited to theEllptical Curve Signature Algorithm (“ECDSA”) Keys, encryption andlordecryption keys, dePKG firmware decrypter program, Signing Tools, 3.55Firmware Jailbreak, andlor any other technologies that enable unauthorizedaccess to andlor copying of the PS3 System andlor enable compatibility ofunauthorized copies of other copyrighted works with the PS3 System.E. Distributing or posting any SCEA or SCEA Affiliates’ confidential orproprietary information relating to any SONY PRODUCT;F. Knowingly assisting or inducing others to engage in any of the conduct setforth in A-E above solely directed at any SONY PRODUCT or that otherwiseconstitutes contributory liabilty under the law.IT IS FURTHER ORDERED AND ADJUDGED that any violation of this Injunctionand Order by Hotz shall result in his payment of stipulated liquidated damages in the amount of ten thousand dollars ($10,000) per violation at the election of SCEA or SCEA’sAffiliates. In the event that the violation involves distribution or TRAFFICKING by Hotz ofsoftare, hardware, or any CIRCUMVENTION DEVICE, or knowingly assisting the same,each distribution of said softare (including downloads via the Internet), hardware, orCIRCUMVENTION DEVICE shall.constitute an independent violation, up to a cap of twohundred and fifty thousand dollars ($250,000). Such liquidated damages shall be anoptional alternative to demonstrating actual or, if relevant, statutory damages.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "380962",
"author": "signal7",
"timestamp": "2011-04-15T20:15:02",
"content": "Oddly, I have a PS3 because the quality of the Xbox 360 w/the RROD was a major concern. With the recent news concerning this lawsuit and all of the positive news concerning the Kinect, I can assure you my next gaming console will not be a Playstation or any other hardware coming from Sony!I’d even entertain the idea of a Nintendo because they at least allow a moderate amount of tinkering with the hardware.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "385185",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-24T03:07:15",
"content": "heh for anyone who doesnt know*chan sites have seriously screwed over psnits been like… down for over a week now",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.805112
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/12/do-your-projects-violate-international-traffic-in-arms-regulations/
|
Do Your Projects Violate International Traffic In Arms Regulations?
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Security Hacks"
] |
[
"arms trafficking",
"itar",
"law"
] |
From time to time we consider the ramifications of hacking prowess being used for evil purposes. Knowledge is a powerful thing, but alone it is not a dangerous thing. Malicious intent is what takes a clever project and turns it to a tragic end. Conscientious hackers realize this, and [George Hadley] is one of them. While working on a new project he wondered if there were guidelines as to what knowledge should and should not be shared. It turns out that the United States has a set of International Traffic in Arms Regulations that mention concepts we’ve seen in many projects. He wrote up
an article which covers the major points of the ITAR
.
The gist of it is that sharing certain knowledge, by posting it on the Internet or otherwise, can be considered arms trafficking. It’ll get you a not-so-friendly visit from government officials and quite possibly a sponsored stay in a secure facility. Information about DIY radar, communications jamming, spying devices, UAVs, and a few other concepts are prohibited from being shared. The one qualifying part of that restriction is that it only applies if the information is not publicly known.
| 57
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378877",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:02:50",
"content": "Are there not a huge amount of patents for many specifics of such devices – which would make the details of which, public knowledge already?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378884",
"author": "caleb",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:06:07",
"content": "america. home of the [almost] free",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378893",
"author": "The Longhorn Engineer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:16:18",
"content": "“america. home of the [almost] free”Better then most other countries.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378899",
"author": "Doktor Jeep",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:22:14",
"content": "In before the bots telling us all how great America is (no matter how bad it gets).I would recommend the book “They Thought They Were Free” by Milton Mayer.Bootlicking the police state will not keep the boot off your neck. Press on.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378905",
"author": "Dosbomber",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:26:57",
"content": "Yeah, like I should trust a bunch of know-nothing lawmakers, who can barely SPELL “Internet” much less use it, to decide what is and is not safe for public dissemination.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378910",
"author": "Woofpickle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:31:04",
"content": "So you are saying we need to start multi-national open souce research projects in each of these fields, so that it can be considered ‘knowledge availible to the public’?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378911",
"author": "Hank",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:31:58",
"content": "We’re more free than the rest of the world. Love it or leave it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378914",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:36:30",
"content": "There really should be some where you can submit your project for an official ‘ok’ to publish. The thing is we as responsible makers don’t know what the gov has cooking. Our project very well could define the scientific principal that underlies the next generation of gov toys. Once its posted the damage is done , so we have to catch this kinda thing before it happens.Even a responsible maker cannot guarantee his project is ‘ok’ due to the secret nature of the situation.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378918",
"author": "Woofpickle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:40:34",
"content": "Not if I figure it out before they do, then they can pay me royalties.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378921",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:42:12",
"content": "@Dosbomber: You shouldn’t, but be aware that ITAR restrictions aren’t about restricting what is safe for public dissemination, it’s about restricting what gets disseminated to any non United States persons in the interest of national security. ITAR really only applies to US citizens. The problem is interpretation. Any engineering drawing you produce, even if it’s a new shape of something that already exixts could be interpreted as engineering knowledge and fall subject to ITAR restrictions, making it unacceptable to distribute to any non US citizen or green card holder. This means you can’t post it on the internet.Has anybody had experience with this? We do custom schematics on HAD all the time!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378922",
"author": "Doktor Jeep",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:44:36",
"content": "LOL.If you submit anything to these goons, they will ninny about it, stall, and pump the pomp to further justify their jobs. You have to realize these are humans who like to get paid, and if we even volunteer to submit just to be nice little patriots, it will turn into an entire system that in the end would require a background check just to have a compiler or a PC that is not in a Cloud (having *gasp! horrors!!!* its own applications installed on it that cannot be tracked and scanned).And if there is money involved – like a corporation that WANTS an open source project to go away so they can get post-facto $patents$ on it – then you can bet on them greasing politicians to make what is legal now illegal tomorrow.I guess people never learn but hey a lot of people were gassed while expecting only a shower too so what’s new here?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378923",
"author": "SP",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:44:42",
"content": "Cryptography is\\was a great example of this!Can you believe that an algorithm can be a weapon?Western government believe so!Several crypto algorithms are still considered “weapons”.Because “Cryptography may increase levels of privacy within the country beyond what the government wishes.”I don’t agree at all that there exists something that can be called “unsafe” knowledge… in a democratic and modern country there should be not a thing that should not be public knowledge!But this is my personal belief.Freedom IS knoweledge, if we exported knowledge and help instead of fake democracy and weapons to other countries perhaps the world could be better.“THANKS BUSH!” …",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378924",
"author": "SP",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:46:06",
"content": "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Restrictions_on_the_import_of_cryptography",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378927",
"author": "caleb",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:47:53",
"content": "@ Dokter Jeephmm seems like an interesting read. i think ill go pick it up at my lovely local library. you know, i love my country and all, but with the state of the globe right now, it seems like our governing bodies are doing things back asswards. to be honest, ive become pretty dissapointed with this america.. its not this great nation i learned about in grade school",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378933",
"author": "biozz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:55:42",
"content": "great now i cant claim ignorance of the law! fuck!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378937",
"author": "hpux735",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T16:59:29",
"content": "just want to mention that ITAR is no where near a new thing. This is actually what prevented PGP from being easily downloaded in the ’90s. Thanks to the author for writing this article.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378938",
"author": "Shaddack",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:01:44",
"content": "Damage? What damage? It’s not country-vs-country anymore, it’s governments-vs-people. A rank-and-file Iranian, a rank-and-file Chinese and a rank-and-file American have more in common than each of them with a member of their respective governments. All the BS about “enemy nations” and “terrorism” is just a red herring to give us something to fear so we are easier to manipulate and do not look where we are not supposed to. When a magician makes gestures, watch his OTHER hand.Nobody has the right to restrict the publication of principles and applications of mathematics and physics, whether it is cryptography or engineering. We are the hackers, the makers – we have the tools to democratize the technologies and we should do so.The geopolitical interests of “nations” are often contradictory to the interests of the people. Don’t play their game. It’s dirty.Hackers of all countries, unite!@addidis: If everyone was “responsible”, one of the things we won’t have would be for example PGP (and its GnuPG successor).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378940",
"author": "caleb",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:06:21",
"content": "ill drink and smoke to that Shaddack!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378942",
"author": "biozz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:08:45",
"content": "so apparently now if you want to invent you need to sign your life away to the us government and pray they let you invent than once you do they take the patient right and pay you a shitty government checkwere starting to look more and more like a military state, no? … i thought the patriot act was stupid",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378955",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:21:20",
"content": "@biozz- I don’t agree with it either, but that’s not what it says. This doesn’t limit what you can invent, just don’t share the design information with a member of any foreign nation.And yes, the Patriot act IS stupid.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378957",
"author": "BG",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:26:52",
"content": "Nothing I’ve seen on this site would likely be a violation of ITAR. A simple FM transmitter with a mic is not a sophisticated or unique enough device to be relevant. It’s no different than exporting equipment to supply a radio station.The kinds of things that would be an issue include interface design documents for defense systems, research documents for defense systems, etc (and of course the systems themselves). Unless you work for a defense contractor, you likely don’t have access to anything that would be restricted under ITAR.You can whine about it all you want but at the end of the day, defense pays considerably more than being featured on HaD. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378961",
"author": "George",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:32:41",
"content": "Agree or disagree with ITAR, it is still the law, and there are still people that can potentially shut you down if you run afoul of the law. Unfortunately, claiming ignorance of the law just doesn’t cut it. If you do a DIY project, will you get drug into court? Odds are the answer is no BUT understanding the law and knowing your risks will help prevent bad things from happening to you.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378965",
"author": "caleb",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:44:21",
"content": "what if i train my cat to run around with a sub machine gun? is that prohibited?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378975",
"author": "Per",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T18:03:32",
"content": "Information will always be free and US government can’t do anything about it.US government believe they can control stuff like this but they always seem to forget that there are 6.6 billion people living outside their “world” and that none of those give a damn about dumb US laws.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378976",
"author": "Shaddack",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T18:06:48",
"content": "@George: There are more dumb laws than you can shake a really long stick at. You are probably violating two or three just now merely by being alive and breathing. Ignoring the laws, and just not doing direct harm, is the only way how to live a life of an engineer instead of the life of a lawyer. Even the lawmakers themselves don’t read everything they vote on, why should we?ITAR is one of the sets of laws that will make more damage to mankind and hackerdom in general if obeyed than if ignored. Everything, including crossing a street or taking a bath, carries a risk. Anything you do, including doing nothing, can get you killed or sued. So do and share what you love, full steam ahead, and damn the torpedoes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378982",
"author": "SP",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T18:21:33",
"content": "Wellll … law…. I’m used to read techincal books… and in my everyday work and life, everything that is a rule is a simple and effective rule (yes, I’m a software developer).Also complex books are complex but are written to be understood by the reader with the required level of knowledge.Why reading a law to me looks like i’m reading an ancient mesopotamic\\alien text?Sometime I suspect is because lawyers and government performs a simple “security through obscurity” rule :) they just make it so complicated to read and understand to casual people that they can have a job :)A way to justify their month incoming? :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378995",
"author": "Booker T. Worthington",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T18:56:31",
"content": "In the business, we call these regulations iTarded.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378998",
"author": "Shaddack",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:06:21",
"content": "@SP: The more likely hypothesis is that they are too dumb to write it clearly and unambiguously. In technology, these cases are weeded out by implementation practice (it just does not work, or is rather erratic and doomed to be replaced with something better, except if it is Windows). In law and politics such selection pressures are lacking and dumbness is allowed to grow into monstrous dimensions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379008",
"author": "nave.notnilc",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:28:30",
"content": "has any hobbyist actually been hit with this law?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379017",
"author": "George",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:39:57",
"content": "@nave.notlic: I was unable to find any particular examples of hackers getting hit by this stuff. That said, university researchers often run into this stuff, and some maker projects (Adafruit’s wave bubble jammer, for example) seem like they could potentially enter the arena where this sort of thing should be thought about, at least.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379021",
"author": "Jelle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:52:03",
"content": "Typical over the top crap. The article mentioned actually has very little info apart from what subjects are mention in this terribly frightening law. Building a paintball tank out of plywood and 2×4’s is not significant info, neither is making a guided missle from some hobby servos and an estes rocket. Not one of the examples he gave got into any trouble.In fact I think this article only tells us something about the author: he is an attention starved reformed grammar Nazi that still likes to tell other people off.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379034",
"author": "roswellaliens",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T20:33:03",
"content": "Contrary to popular belief 3-D printers may be covered under ITAR as well as more conventional legislation if the resolution is high enough to duplicate parts used in munitions, such as the firing pins.Also could be an issue if they can duplicate keys and suchlike, they have restrictions on this sort of equipment for a good reason.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "444118",
"author": "Joe",
"timestamp": "2011-08-30T07:51:41",
"content": "It’s even worse than that. Concrete can be used for military purposes as is, without any special steps. Just add water and you can make barriers or reinforce buildings. A laser cutter is able to do many of the things that a key cutter or 3D printer can do. If you want to cut keys, you do not need a key cutter. It just happens to be easiest. You’re right about general purpose devices or materials or even just information being theoretically covered. The Internet has pretty much made ITAR a dead letter in regards to controlling information once the general public gets it, regardless of what nationality that public is. They can of course still go after anyone they can prove sent the knowledge to a known agent (NOT used in the 007 sense, heh) acting for an enemy. So don’t be going and posting a link in an email to someone working at an Iranian university to something like a homemade radar system! X)The other thing is the ‘Friend of a friend of a friend of…’ concept. Pretty much once it’s in the public view, it’s impossible to know for 100% certainly when someone down the line does something illegal. There has to be a limit because even every member of the US Congress and armed forces has some short number of steps to one of their enemies.",
"parent_id": "379034",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "379069",
"author": "Tanntraad",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:15:16",
"content": "A true free country is where you can post anything, not worrying about some “government officials”.Disclaimer: I don’t have to make any disclaimers since I’m writing this in Norway.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379092",
"author": "Doktor Jeep",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T21:36:28",
"content": "The only ire that 3D printers will draw is that some huge contractors were working on them and they don’t like it when some kid from out of nowhere builds one. When it’s time for the big contracts, it’s “lawfare” time for newcomers trying to compete.Ever wondered why the only people who have built a better mousetrap and raked in big bucks in the last 100 years just never seem to have their heads on straight, and go off supporting causes on their spare time (and lot of spare money) that make life complicated at least and difficult at worst? Example: Bill Gate and the eugenics programs.Now now, they don’t want just anybody to strike it rich. They might go and start foundations that actually make people more free or go on legal quests that create court cases changing legal precedents. We can’t have that. Only certain people are allowed to make the money, people who are part of the problem or spend it on toys.For everybody else, ITAR will be one of the tools used to take them down. There is a reason why missile tech was given to the Chinese in the late 90s and nobody went to prison. The company behind it was a big donor to both (D) and (R) politicians. To keep that out of the news they chased the president around for getting a hummer from an intern instead.The Supreme court just ruled that you can’t sue the state for wrongful prosecution, meaning that after you are accused of arms export, you get raided by SWAT, your equipment taken, and spend thousands in legal bills, they can walk away from it without a scratch or simply spend more tax dollars to charge you again with the same thing. The goal, the “lawfare”, is not really to put you away for good, but to shut you down so a friend of the state can take the tech and make the big bucks and the technology gets sold (by them) overseas anyway.This is how America works.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379109",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T22:06:23",
"content": "Information wants to be free, maaaaaan!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379173",
"author": "Pinski1",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T00:51:51",
"content": "ITAR also affects UK companies. Although my understanding of it was it only applied to military/arms related products that identified as such. So a Wideband jammer (aka a Wavebubble) is okay, but a military Wideband jammer (such as the UKs VIPER system) would need to be regulated. Please note that if it is going to be used on a military piece of kit, even if it’s just a sticker, it still comes under ITAR.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379245",
"author": "Another BSME",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T02:20:41",
"content": "ITAR only applies to defense articles, which means articles designed for military or dual use.An Air Filter for a Honda Civic? not ITAR-controlled.An air filter for an M-1 Abrams tank? ITAR-controlled.Boeing had a huge problem early on with the 787 project in demonstrating to the State Department that none of the composites technology used in the 787 came from work on the B-2, which would have made it dual-use and subject to ITAR restrictions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379273",
"author": "D_",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T03:39:19",
"content": "In that this is “the first tutorial in a tutorial series” My opinion on this subject quite possibly subject to change, perhaps several times. I’m a US citizen, and I’m no anarchist. In today’s be afraid, very afraid post 9/11 US it’s quite possible that over zealous law enforcement will misapply ITAR, simply because there are no real consequences for doing so. An equal amount of grief cam emerge from the private commercial sector, where they will hold all the cards in a dispute, because that’s how the plutocracy has the legislation written.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379276",
"author": "Thebes",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T03:48:56",
"content": "The US Constitution says that speech and the press are free.No mere act of congress can change that, so I suggest we act like the documents founding our nation mean what they say, rather than what power-hungry politicians say they mean.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "444120",
"author": "Joe",
"timestamp": "2011-08-30T07:57:23",
"content": "It also says the Interstate Commerce clause is to protect states from anticompetitive laws from other states and not to come up with a huge national police for everything from guns to drugs to growing too much wheat (yes, really!).",
"parent_id": "379276",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "379387",
"author": "lurker",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T07:37:27",
"content": "Didn’t know about the 747 thing – Quite interesting, but with what Boeing and Northrup Grummond have done, and continue to do, for the US government, you’d think they’d have at least a little leeway to use what they developed in-house in the public market.For the average hacker, though, I see this law as a sleeping/paper tiger. 99% of what any of us do is not “novel” in any sense that it could be interpreted as a serious threat to national security. With the open nature of resarch journals and the GLOBAL reach of the internet, the keeping of national secrets is wholly dependant on the virtue of those who know them – There is no such thing as an information border anymore.…However, here’s a hypothetical that I’m waiting for and would land someone in a deep, dark hole – Lets say some hacker finds a cheap and easy way to break the encryption used in air-to-ground communications. I’m assuming that the Chinese, Russians, Iranians and probably a few others can already do this – But the general public has no access to such technology. Once the hardware/software is posted online, game over – The US would need to retrofit its entire fleet… This law, along with a few others, would be invoked and whoever’s responsible would be at leavenworth or gitmo for the rest of their natural life…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379431",
"author": "Daid",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T10:21:49",
"content": "“The one qualifying part of that restriction is that it only applies if the information is not publicly known.”Now that’s what I call a loophole. Just send the information to me, I’ll put it on my website, at which point it’s publicly known. And I’m in Europe, so ITAR doesn’t apply to me.Then it’s publicly known, so you can publish it all you want.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379483",
"author": "foo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T12:55:23",
"content": "“A rank-and-file Iranian, a rank-and-file Chinese and a rank-and-file American have more in common than each of them with a member of their respective governments”hmm… let’s see:rank-and-file American: wants to live free, drink, and make money. Doesn’t really care about the rest of the world, but naively believes that everyone wants democacy and freedom, and that democacy and freedom will solve anything.rank-and-file Chinese: likely has little interest in Communism or democacy these days, wants to live free, drink, and make money.rank-and-file Iranian: might like to have a different president, but still wants to kill you degenerate unclean western dogs who want to live free and drink, and your slut-women who don’t wear veils.Yes, we’re hackers here. But let’s not believe the ‘everyone wants to be like me’ shit. You have more in common with a Sony executive than someone from another culture with different values and concepts of freedom.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379506",
"author": "mic",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T13:54:37",
"content": "@fooWhen was the last time two democratic countries were at war with each other? I don’t think it is possible to impose democracy on a country because that would be an oxymoron, however, you don’t have an answer to the aforementioned question. You can’t force democracy the way the Americans have attempted but when it is found the end result is peace. As they have mentioned in the article, “Knowledge is a powerful thing.” Fighting ignorance with more ignorance is not the answer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379510",
"author": "BG",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T14:04:38",
"content": "@lurker: “Didn’t know about the 747 thing – Quite interesting, but with what Boeing and Northrup Grummond have done, and continue to do, for the US government, you’d think they’d have at least a little leeway to use what they developed in-house in the public market.”I’m not sure of all the fine print associated with this issue, so I’m not sure where the line gets drown. However, it is important to note that while the technologies were developed in-house, Boeing and Norhtrop were acting as contractors doing work for the military with military funds. As a result, the IP may not be 100% theirs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379555",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T15:58:40",
"content": "I find this so interesting and the level of fear so high that it is scary. ITAR covers military technology. Crypto is a good example. Crypto was primarily used by governments and the military. Some big corporations used it when sending telegrams to prevent industrial espionage. Thing is that all governments want the ability to wire tap “With a court order”. When the internet and computers became common crypto became wide spread and needed. The government relaxed the rules but if you think Crytpo is not a useful military technology you are just nuts.And people think that ITAR is new. No GE had to deal with it when they produced the CF-6 Turbofan in the 70s. It used some of the the tech from the F101 engine used in the B-1. GE and Pratt and Whitney have to deal with ITAR all the time because a lot of the improvements in jet engines come from military engines. Things like single crystal turbine blads and BLISKs come to mind.So do you want big corporations to have the ability to sell sensitive military system with out limitations?To be honest I doubt that you will have any issues with them coming after you unless you do something really dumb or really outrageous. Or think of it this way. Outside of PGP which was resolved have you heard of any hobbiest getting in trouble with ITAR rules?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379556",
"author": "Sam Stelfox",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T16:02:26",
"content": "I’ve always wondered why there were so few details on home built radar devices… I always thought that would be a fun project to work on but have never had the time to do all the math and solve all the potential engineering problems for something like that.On the other hand I’ve never really asked. Anyone have any build details they might be up for sharing with a US citizen? :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379586",
"author": "Doktor Jeep",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T17:32:41",
"content": "Hey Foo.I bet the Iranians hate Christmas too.Oh wait…http://www.lewrockwell.com/orig8/weden2.html“Yes, we’re hackers here. ”No. Real hackers don’t sheeple along believing in tripe fed to them by Bill O’Reilly. They research, study, and find weaknesses (such as those weaknesses in the entire propaganda engine that fuels the Sekurity Staaten).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "444121",
"author": "Joe",
"timestamp": "2011-08-30T08:07:35",
"content": "Deserts have some of the worst winters of any climate. In fact, the precipitation definition of a desert includes every single mountain in the mainland US. New Mexico has frost in the winter, in the daytime and that’s in the flat lands! And the weeds still somehow grow near the roads with those extreme temperature changes every year. :)",
"parent_id": "379586",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "379628",
"author": "George",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T18:59:59",
"content": "@Sam: A homebrew radar was exactly the project I was considering regarding the ITAR tutorial. The simple answer is, because knowledge used to develop the radar system comes from public domain sources (university textbooks and papers, mostly), ITAR should not be a concern.After doing all the work to figure this out, it seemed only reasonable to write up a tutorial on this for others. The tutorial in no way comments on whether the law is right or wrong (or a host of other things brought up by the commenters on this post), simply that it exists, and presents a potential risk (if you get sued, your ability to post more content to the web is severely hampered). ITAR doesn’t, in all likelihood, apply to virtually all makers and their projects, but people should have a basic understanding of the laws and take CALCULATED risks when going forward in their endeavors.Oh, and regarding the radar resources:http://www.mit.edu/~gr20603/Dr.%20Gregory%20L.%20Charvat%20Projects/$240%20High%20Res%20Rail%20SAR.htmlhttp://www.mit.edu/~gr20603/Dr.%20Gregory%20L.%20Charvat%20Projects/Cantenna%20Radar.htmlhttp://hackaday.com/2007/10/29/diy-ultra-wide-band-radar/Good luck!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379812",
"author": "Jonathan Wilson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T01:32:45",
"content": "Anyone who thinks hobbyists wont get in trouble should readhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bruce_Simpsonand look for information related to his “cruise missile” project.He is in New Zealand but there is a lot of evidence to suggest that the action taken against him in New Zealand was carried out at the behest of the US government.Calling it a “missile” may have hurt him but the basic premise of his project was to take a very low cost jet engine, strap some stuff on it so it can fly and add a guidance system so it can fly without a human controlling it.Pretty much any kind of flying machine (rocket, model airplane, jet engine, whatever) capable of flying to a specific point without any human controlling it may be covered by ITAR",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379974",
"author": "membrane",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T08:43:52",
"content": "Long story short ITAR as it is was a huge mistake.The law needs to be rewritten from the ground up.ITAR has not kept weapons out of the wrong hands just look at North Korea and Iran.What it has done was cripple the US aerospace industry.ITAR is such a load of bull European companies often advertize a product being ITAR free.The huge success of Ariane is partly due to ITAR making getting a payload launched in the US more difficult.The ATlas V for example is generally cheaper then Araine but unlike Araine it comes with the baggage known as ITAR.What to replace ITAR with this is very easy as the most European countries such as France have reached a good compromise of the right amount of security without the maddness.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,218.947476
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/11/retrode-gets-an-upgrade/
|
Retrode Gets An Upgrade
|
Gerrit Coetzee
|
[
"Nintendo Hacks"
] |
[
"3d printing",
"atari",
"emulator",
"gameboy",
"GBx",
"Matthias",
"retrode",
"retrode II",
"sega",
"snega2usb",
"snes",
"virtual boy"
] |
We’ve been following the
Retrode
since it was an
obscure video on YouTube
that we swore was an elaborate hoax. Now, [Matthias] tell us it’s getting its third major upgrade, and it is really starting to resemble a commercial project. The video features the new prototype case for the Retrode II, which has been
3d printed
. The fact that such advanced protyping facilities are availavble to the common hacker is just incredible. The new Retrode II will have ports built in so SEGA and SNES controllers can be plugged in. Since its launch the community has been collaborating to build
plug-in boards
allowing people to play Virtual Boy, Atari 2600, GBx, Turbografix-16,
Neo Geo Pocket,
and even N-64 cartridges directly from the cartridge on their computers. Very Cool.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzIljUmQhak&w=470]
| 15
| 15
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378271",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T15:12:17",
"content": "“The new Retrode II will have ports built in so SEGA and SNES controllers can be plugged in. ” – Huh?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378321",
"author": "hackersmith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T16:22:17",
"content": "@Stevie,Look at the video or look at the site. They redesigned the board to have 2 SNES 7-pin connectors and 2 SEGA ports on the new Retrode so that you can just plug in an old controller and turn ’em into USB joysticks.@anybody:This thing is getting to the point where I would love to see it in a retro gaming shop as a purchasable product. All you do is supply software.What I think would be neat would be the adapter board with a plug that chains straight up. The video shows the N64 cartridge sticking off at a 90. I think it would be cool to have a “snes cartridge” that plugs and has the connector and slight cartridge guide to make each adapter look cleaner.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378322",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T16:24:53",
"content": "@hackersmith my quote was originally of an out of sequence group of words. I was trying to point out that as usual the posting was riddled with errors. The author updated the post to fix it and edited my comment.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378324",
"author": "Josh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T16:30:11",
"content": "@Stevie – watch the video",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378343",
"author": "Matthias_H",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T17:13:12",
"content": "@hackersmith:> This thing is getting to the point where I> would love to see it in a retro gaming shopIf you have a particular one in mind, feel free to give them a hint. So far, I haven’t exactly received a lot of response from retailers, but then, they may just not be aware of the device. I’d love to collaborate with retro gaming shops, since it would give me more time to focus on the development.Cheers,Matthias",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378349",
"author": "s1500",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T17:28:02",
"content": "I like this. It’s perfectly in the middle of running everything on the original hardware & all-emulation. Guess this is like the opposite of those Harmony carts, etc.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378366",
"author": "Kris",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:08:30",
"content": "Colecovision? Pretty please?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378377",
"author": "hackersmith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:25:33",
"content": "@Stevie, Oh sorry. While the wording is a bit strange it’s understandable. I thought you were confused about the project not the writeup. No offense meant.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378381",
"author": "hackersmith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:30:10",
"content": "@Matthias_H My brother tells me there is a game shop somewhere in his town where the guy is deep into the old systems. I think the guy wont go beyond N64 systems in his shop.A product like this (with better tooled emulator software or good GUIs on existing emus) would let people get into games and play classics without needing to buy old dodgy hardware. Let me see if I can find the name of the place (or if it is just a wild fantasy in my mind) and let you know.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378719",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T09:16:32",
"content": "This looks very interesting.It makes me wonder if a poor man’s version could be cobbled together from a bunch of console-dedicated emulating handhelds stripped, bundled and run into the various interfaces via connectors.It would be way larger and clunkier than this elegant beast is though.Makes me want to get my SNES down from the attic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378791",
"author": "Matthias_H",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:09:24",
"content": "@strider_mt2k— The key is to have a huge number of available I/O lines, something not readily available in most embedded systems. This is essentially the main job of the Retrode’s brain (microcontroller): to convert the cartridge interface with its embarrassing lot of address and data lines into something manageable, such as the (four-wire) USB for which the interface exists.Your poor man, soldering skills provided, could still go and integrate hardware similar to the Retrode’s into an existing system. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378793",
"author": "d_frost",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:11:13",
"content": "the designer should post this on kick starter, i think it would get a lot of backers, including myself.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378840",
"author": "MrBishop",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T15:07:22",
"content": "I love it, but instead of having to have a ton of adapters could you make a “Ultra/Mega/MX/Super/ect edition” that has all those adapter built in. Basically every console thats pre-disc and maybe even a CD/DVD drive. I would pay $100 for something that can support all carts I throw at it. Also, how much is the Model 2 anyway? I skimmed around on the website but no luck.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378966",
"author": "Matthias_H",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:46:55",
"content": "@d_frost –I’m not American, hence: bad luck with Kickstarter.@MrBishop –More like $200-300. The plug-in solution does have LOTS of benefits.First, anyone can customize the device as they desire, and doesn’t have to pay for stuff they’re not using.Second, development of plug-ins can proceed one-by-one, instead of delaying the entire project by years. Just imagine designing a monster device with 10 slots, and then one connector supplier hops off. Scary when you put a lot of cash into it.Third, no additional hardware is needed to negotiate between zillions of carts sharing the same bus.The projected price, by the way, is in the Q&A.Cheers,Matthias",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "382247",
"author": "raith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-18T13:03:51",
"content": "that is sweet. though I am wondering if any of the adapters will allow controllers from other systems. and the lid having a lock so it doesn’t get knocked open would be a good addition",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.060005
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/11/diy-mp3-player-shows-that-no-hack-is-ever-obsolete/
|
DIY MP3 Player Shows That No Hack Is Ever Obsolete
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"digital audio hacks",
"Musical Hacks"
] |
[
"mini-itx",
"mp3",
"portable"
] |
[Ole Wolf] wrote in to tell us about a project he has been working on for several years now.
The Wacken Death Box
serves as a reminder that once you start a DIY project, it’s probably a good idea to finish it in a reasonable amount of time, lest it risk becoming obsolete.
His Death Box is an MP3 player that he takes along on his annual trip to the Wacken Open Air Festival. His goal was to construct a portable amplified music player that could be powered from either a car battery or charger. A Via EPIA Mini-ITX computer serves as the brains of the device, blaring his tunes from a set of car loudspeakers via a two-channel 100W amp.
[Ole Wolf] used the music player for a few years, improving it as he went along. He does admit however, that with the continually dropping prices of MP3 players, he decided to bring a small portable unit along with him to the 2010 festival, leaving his box at home.
Given the fact that far smaller and more portable devices make his music box seem clunky and obsolete in comparison, you might ask why he even keeps it around. We think that every hack has its place, and while you won’t be strapping the Death Box on your back for your morning jog, it fits quite well in a variety of situations. This rugged music box would be an appropriate choice to use in your workshop, at the beach, or even on a construction job site – places where you might not want to use your comparatively fragile iDevice.
| 19
| 19
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378252",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T14:40:38",
"content": "This is so over powered for an MP3 player it isn’t funny. A beagle board would offer a lower power solution but would lack an HD driver. You could also gut an NSLU and use that with a USB sound device.To cut the weight you could replace the wood with Aluminum and pop rivet it together. Another option would be to buy an old ammo can and use that as the case. You could also make it very water proof that way.Maybe add wifi and or bluetooth and write some custom control software for Android?As is it is a really powerful device with a lot of potential.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378255",
"author": "Purduecer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T14:44:23",
"content": "The title: “DIY MP3 player shows that no hack is ever obsolete”The first paragraph: “The Wacken Death Box serves as a reminder that once you start a DIY project, it’s probably a good idea to finish it in a reasonable amount of time, lest it risk becoming obsolete.”Wait, what?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378262",
"author": "Olivier",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T15:00:51",
"content": "“the continually dropping prices of MP3 players” then “places where you might not want to use your comparatively fragile iDevice” that’s quite dumb… this iThings never get cheaper.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378264",
"author": "Bahbumhug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T15:06:51",
"content": "Purduecer I am guessing he means that you should finish projects quickly or they could be come obsolete, but this guy got lucky that his is still usable?That is my best guess.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378304",
"author": "Oafeal",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T15:54:22",
"content": "ghetto at its best",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378316",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T16:15:01",
"content": ":) I have a similar project using a beheaded laptop.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378318",
"author": "no72",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T16:17:02",
"content": "The starting idea was probably to build his own Gandalf-five-thousand-watt bass machine for Wacken Open Air. As seen in the film Lord Of The Weed, a nice new synchronisation for Lord Of The Rings.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378333",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T16:52:20",
"content": "This just needs refinement:– Keep the speakers and the 12v car battery source– Drop the “PC”, and stick with the MP3 player.– Make the external buttons conform to the iPod remote specification (or whatever MP3 player is used).– Provide a dock for said MP3 player.– Add a 12v round car plug– Add a charger circuit for the MP3 player dockHigh powered “transportable” speakers are expensive and there isn’t a lot of choice around.I’d lose the car battery thing, and just go with a $3 plastic 8xAA battery holder (but note 8 AA = 10V. If you’re using rechargables you’d want two 5xAA battery all wired in series to get 12.5v… but NEVER put standard batteries in or you’ll probably fry something with 15v)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378348",
"author": "JamieWho",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T17:25:26",
"content": "@Scott,You probably won’t fry anything with 15V for a system designed around a 12V car system. They (cars) output 14.4V from the charging circuit and most amplifiers work well within a range of input voltages.Besides, running a 100W amplifier off of AA batteries will probably run the juice out pretty quickly, if they can even supply enough current to work at all. D size batteries would be a better choice for high power audio output.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378363",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:00:23",
"content": "@JamieWho – I thought automotive systems regulated to 12V, regardless of alternator output (~14.4v, as you say.. I have not messed with this at all).I am still pretty confident rechargable AA’s could power the speakers and maintain a trickle charge to the presumed iPod.I’m still new to some of this, but I think AA would suffice.100W @ 12v is 8.3 amps. Assuming max power is unrealistic, since most amps suffer from distortion levels before they even get to 50%. So let’s say 4Ah.The Eneloops are rated (and consumer tested to) ~2,000 mili-amp hours. Times 10 (to provide necessary ~12v) that is 20Ah, no?Constructive feedback welcome.. I’m doing my homework, but some things I’m still not sure of. :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378374",
"author": "abobymouse",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:22:47",
"content": "This device could easily access / be accessed from a network; thus it can play files that you store on your desktop machine.It can also play other types of audio file, such as flac.These two options make it a useful hack, even if it’s not what it was originally designed for.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378380",
"author": "Zach",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:29:48",
"content": "If he’s going to be taking that thing to the Wacken festival, he’s gonna need to paint it black and cover it in spikes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378384",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:37:05",
"content": "@abobymouse – many devices play FLAC now, if you install Roxbox (have it on my 2nd gen iPod nano).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378413",
"author": "Ben",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T19:30:19",
"content": "@ScottWhen you connect cells in series to make a battery with a higher voltage, the Ah rating stays the same. When you connect them in parallel, the voltage stays the same, and the Ah rating increases. The Wh rating stays the same either way.For 1.2V, 2000mAh NiMH cells:10 cells in series makes a 12V, 2Ah battery (12V * 2Ah = 24Wh)10 cells in parallel makes a 1.2V, 20Ah battery (1.2V * 20Ah = 24Wh)Ah ratings are usually given for a specific discharge current, or a specific discharge time period. Sanyo helpfully provides a graph with discharge curves at different currents for their eneloop cellshttp://www.eneloop.info/home/performance-details/discharge-current.htmlLet’s say the amplifier applies a constant 50W load to your 10 cell, 12V battery. This means that each cell will be under a 4.17A drain. Looking at the discharge graph, you probably will get reasonable performance from the battery in that it will provide close to its rated energy output, but its only going to last for 30 minutes (24Wh / 50W = 0.48h) since the cell just doesn’t store that much energy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378467",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T20:35:52",
"content": "Flac, yes! Take no flak from defective files. There is room for even wav files, and don’t forget high def sounds. Without Rockbox an i-anything is near useless.The two speakers crammed into the tiny box would sound better in the combined bigger box. The speaker hookup is very klutzy, and not even needed. A electric bike battery built into a integrated box, tuned bass etc with computer, class D power amp….Google what happened to jam boxes. Everything including sound has shrunk up to near nothing. We need jam boxes that kick ass.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378479",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T21:09:59",
"content": "@BenThank you for taking the time to clear that up for me. Much appreciated!Obviously I don’t completely understand some aspects. I’ve been substituting some battery packs with homemade Eneloop + battery holders from fleabay. Easy to replace low draw ~5v and 9v battery packs.I will actually have to try this – I have a mass of Eneloops, a spare car amplifier, and a subwoofer and speakers doing absolutely nothing.Does an amplifier typically have steady power requirements, or does that flux with music levels? Trying to understand if a 100W amp at 50% volume/power is really pulling steady 50W, or just peaking to 50W with a normal draw that’s much less.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378543",
"author": "Ben",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T00:24:41",
"content": "@ScottI don’t understand it too well myself, but yes, the power used by an audio amplifier is constantly varying with the music.There are so many variables in the system that I wouldn’t try to pick a battery for an audio system based on theory and calculations. I would want to actually measure runtime using a test battery with a known capacity, using some average music at a comfortable volume level. You’ll probably find that the 10 eneloops powering a 100W amp last a good deal longer than 30 minutes when the volume is at a comfortable level.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379362",
"author": "meme",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T06:29:18",
"content": "Love it, got a set if JBL 6×9 car speakers that I wanted to so this with, nice work! Overkill, yep, but why? Simply because he could!Overkill is great fun, I would like to see a v12 lawnmower next!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "895654",
"author": "Ike Krogstad",
"timestamp": "2012-12-02T16:52:24",
"content": "Car amplifiers that are made up of solid state transistors are still the best. ;<a href=\"Check out the most up to date piece of writing at our own blog sitehttp://www.caramoantravel.com/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.35107
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/11/print-your-own-header-shrouds/
|
Print Your Own Header Shrouds
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"3d printer",
"header",
"idc",
"printable",
"shroud"
] |
Don’t get us wrong, printable whistles are cool and all, but
these printable header shrouds
make us think that filament printers like the Makerbot and RepRap might just be worth their salt. This utilitarian purpose is a departure from
the souvenirs
,
toys
, and
art
that we’re used to seeing from the expensive development
toys
tools.
The six and ten pin header shrouds are designed for a snug fit that makes it easy to glue them onto the plastic spacers of male pin headers. We use IDC plugs and ribbon cable all the time in our projects, but never seem to order shrouded connectors; this is perfect for us. It makes us wonder what other PCB-friendly printable designs we’ve been missing out on? Surely someone’s been printing stand-offs with threaded inserts, right? If you know of something useful that we can share with the rest of the readers, don’t hesitate to
send in a tip
.
[via
Dangerous Prototypes
]
| 10
| 10
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378214",
"author": "mess_maker",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T13:32:10",
"content": "Great idea. I always want to order shrouds, but for some reason I always forget.Funny that I was thinking of stand offs as well, though the threading was not in my mind. That would be a great addition.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378218",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T13:34:14",
"content": "Good idea!As you said I’m sure there are plenty of small parts that can be reproduced for this purpose.Maybe plastic covers for not so nice looking wire antennas would be doable for one example.Small tabs could left on the bottom and matching holes made to the PCB to be able to melt the tabs from the bottom to mount it permanently.Another thing would be plastic covers for unused pinheaders and other protection plugs for various connectors.Maybe also some sort of thruhole LED stands and thin LED diffusers could be done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378237",
"author": "Grovenstien",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T14:11:05",
"content": "Hell why not go further and invent your own standards. Ahh another reason i want one!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378340",
"author": "MRC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T17:08:55",
"content": "I’m with Grovenstien. get the 3d printing guys started on open std connectors as well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378388",
"author": "nimitzbrood",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:44:41",
"content": "Custom LED mounts comes to mind for when you want to do a flat matrix of cheap LEDs.@MRC – hell yes we should be getting 3D printers working on open standard connectors.Hmm…easily weatherproof connectors also come to mind. Heck you could produce a coupler with a groove for a neoprene o-ring pretty easily.I’m suddenly sad that I don’t have the cash for a RepRap. :-(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378438",
"author": "jtl3",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T19:55:07",
"content": "This doesn’t really make any sense to me. Shrouded headers are not significantly more expensive than their non-shrouded counterparts, and they have sharp edges meant to mate solidly with matching connectors. The printed version here looks flimsy and the tolerances appear poor. It doesn’t even have a way of attaching onto the 2×3 header!I don’t want to sound discouraging, I just don’t see the point…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378459",
"author": "nimitzbrood",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T20:17:27",
"content": "@jt13 well for one you’re not limited to a square header. You can print any header shape or design that you want so you can custom fit a header to an odd shaped board.The other thing is you don’t have to wait for shipment. You need a header shroud just print it yourself.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378486",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T21:35:35",
"content": "I can’t afford one, but I’ve been surprised how the 3D printing community have not had many discussions with the retro-computer community.Many of the connector plugs and shrouds for old Atari, TI, and Commodore computers are rare. People will “do without” and simply hack up printer cables, which is ugly. Scrounging forums to find someone with a pile of junk parts who will then sell you one is also costly and time consuming.For example, the Atari SIO connectors are dearly sought by collector/makers who want to craft a hard drive emulating SD card reader. Sometimes these parts are available as NOS for $5 to $10. I think shrouds for NES controllers are also difficult to source.I’m sure there are lots of communities needing replacement parts, and printer owners can’t be everywhere at once… still if you have one of these printers and the time,please stop by atari.org etc. forums and (in a non-spam way) let folks know you’d like to help.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378490",
"author": "nimitzbrood",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T21:52:56",
"content": "@Scott – not to mention even older systems like printing connectors for the PDP unibus and qbus boards on old DEC hardware.Then there’s things like missing buttons, covers, bezel pieces (though you’d have to print them in sections and epoxy them together) and a ton of other things missing on older systems. Not completely clear covers unfortunately.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378803",
"author": "Renosis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T14:23:23",
"content": "@jt13 I designed and printed the shroud. It is actually about as sturdy as a real IDC shroud. It doesn’t look as pretty but it is much better than no shroud at all. The reason I created it is because the pololu stepper carrier kit I bought didn’t come with the 6 pin variety that I needed. It takes approximately 3 minutes to print and costs pennies in material. Yes header pins are about the same price as a mass produced shroud, but I guarantee you are probably going to have alot more header pins laying around than IDC shrouds.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.225273
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/11/potentially-explosive-spritz-cookies/
|
Potentially Explosive Spritz Cookies
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"home hacks"
] |
[
"cookie press",
"cookies",
"melamine",
"spritz"
] |
Do you recognize the shapes of these spritz cookies? Theoretical physicists and nuclear engineers might. They are representative of a hydrogen atom in several different states. Oh, and they’re delicious. [Windell] over at Evil Mad Scientist Labs
cut his own spritz cookie discs
in order to bake the hydrogen look-a-likes.
To bring you up to speed: spritz cookies are not rolled out and cut with a cookie cutter – although
you could print your own cutters
in these shapes if you wanted to. Instead, a cookie press is used to squeeze out dough onto a baking sheet. The press looks like a very wide syringe. The dry dough is packed into a cylinder, and a ratcheting ram presses it toward the business end. A disc with wisely placed slits lets the dough squeeze out into the final shape.
We made some shamrocks for St. Patrick’s Day, but now we’re wondering if we can make our own Hackaday logo cookies. [Windell] grabbed some melamine dinner plates to use as raw material for his custom discs (remember to use food safe material). He then designed the cutouts in Inkscape and headed over to the laser cutter to fabricate the disc. We don’t have a laser cutter but we’d bet you can do a similar, but slower, job with a drill and a lot of filing/sanding.
[via
Dangerous Prototypes
]
| 4
| 4
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378217",
"author": "mess_maker",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T13:33:30",
"content": "Some of those look like stylized tie fighters.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378320",
"author": "caleb",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T16:19:14",
"content": "wait you mean i can eat my hack?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378590",
"author": "Sodor",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T03:13:38",
"content": "Next Arduino cookies…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "380177",
"author": "Pikachu",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T16:19:45",
"content": "You mean they don’t actually have the potential to literally explode…Disappointed :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.174395
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/11/fan-and-vent-holes-prevent-sweaty-gaming-hands/
|
Fan And Vent Holes Prevent Sweaty Gaming Hands
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Xbox Hacks"
] |
[
"controller",
"fan",
"usb",
"vent",
"xbox 360"
] |
[Happy Dragon] grew tired of wiping moist palms on his pants during intense gaming sessions. To combat the issue he tried adding a fan to an Xbox 360 controller that he had sitting around. He pulled a small PC fan from a Nyko Airflow and glued it over a hole he cut into the battery compartment of the controller. This forces air into the body of the unit, which exits through holes he’s drilled in the wings. He added an external battery pack to power the controller since the original batteries were removed before the fan was glues in place. The fan itself isn’t powered from this external pack, but requires a USB connection that he attaches using the disconnect from a wired Xbox controller.
After some testing, [Happy Dragon] seems… happy… with the results. He tells us that his hands are not sweaty, and that he finds he’s not gripping the controller quite as tightly as he used to so as not to block the vent holes. We can see a couple of issues with this design, like the holes filling up with crud, or the fan blowing dust and dirt into the controller (we’re thinking about the analog sticks). But perhaps a future design could create dedicated ducts inside that keep the electronics isolated from the cooling. Or maybe the exhaust from
portable console builds
could be used in a similar way?
You’ll notice that there’s no direct link for this hack. [Happy Dragon] didn’t write a post about this, he just sent us a half-dozen images and his description of the project. Check out the rest of the pictures after the break.
| 32
| 32
|
[
{
"comment_id": "378161",
"author": "Jason Knight",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T11:09:39",
"content": "Funny — I always just use some 3M spray adhesive and some cut to fit gore-tex, tex-ply or similar breathable cloth.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378162",
"author": "wosser",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T11:09:44",
"content": "So many jokes so little time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378167",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T11:19:05",
"content": "LOL! no way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378176",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T11:37:59",
"content": "I’d put a grill on that…those fan blades hurt!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378177",
"author": "K!P",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T11:38:28",
"content": "pretty sure that there are dedicated controllers that do just this, nice DIY option tho.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378186",
"author": "Eric",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T11:57:45",
"content": "Or just don’t play Black ops quite so much….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378189",
"author": "Brian.Holiday",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T12:04:55",
"content": "My opinion, it needs a smaller fan. I would salvage one or two from a laptop. It would be a cleaner build.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378193",
"author": "Keith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T12:21:16",
"content": "Time to move out of your parents basement and get a job possibly?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378194",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T12:23:58",
"content": "what a hack job. They do make controllers with built in fans so you don’t need to make such an ugly mess. And really, a smaller fan would have been as good and probably could have been made to fit inside the controller.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378201",
"author": "Japala",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T12:42:35",
"content": "Did something similar with a mouse back in 2001. Funny enough, manufacturers started making these short after that…http://metku.net/index.html?path=mods/rottaflekti/index_engI have to agree that a smaller fan is in order on this particular controller hack or least some protection for fingers. Like Brian.Holiday pointed out, an old laptop could be a good option to source the new fans.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378221",
"author": "Booker T. Worthington",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T13:41:28",
"content": "I’d rather just have an absorbent material on the gamepad.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378228",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T13:49:13",
"content": "Absorbent? MaxiPad!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378230",
"author": "Crash",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T13:51:13",
"content": "Used to have a xbox 1 controller by nyko that had this a while back. Also had a gaming mouse with the same feature. The mouse fan stopped spinning after about 3 months and I regularly had to oil it after that. I agree with another comment. Either put a grill on that or enclose it in something.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378234",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T14:05:09",
"content": "Not to be a Troll but .. if your palms start sweating due to gaming, maybe doesn’t it mean instead that you are spending too much time with games? Just saying..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378236",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T14:08:24",
"content": "@Japala or old graphics cards fans",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378244",
"author": "emerson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T14:19:22",
"content": "great job",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378300",
"author": "Genie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T15:48:07",
"content": "Nyko air flo ex, search for it. They weren’t expensive when I bought 1 about 7+ years ago.Guy wasted his time but props for doing it, well done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378314",
"author": "Josh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T16:12:23",
"content": "Don’t drop that on your crotch! Yeouch!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378373",
"author": "kimg",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:22:02",
"content": "Why doesn’t he just get his sweat glands removed like the rest of us hardcore gamers?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378375",
"author": "Brennan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:23:25",
"content": "@MrXWho are you to judge how someone spends their free time? If he enjoys playing video games 12 hours a day I say let him. Then again, some people get sweaty palms really quickly while playing games.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378379",
"author": "abobymouse",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:27:04",
"content": "Those holes are going to need cleaning. Grime from sweaty hands builds up.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378393",
"author": "Hater",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:54:38",
"content": "I guess this would have been more appropriate for “There I fixed it”… what a kludge!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378395",
"author": "MS3FGX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:59:32",
"content": "If you read the description, it mentions he took the fan FROM a Nyko Airflow, which makes the whole thing even more bizarre.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378556",
"author": "moo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T01:06:05",
"content": "@kimg lolI get sweaty hands only after a few minutes of a good scrim in css. Will look into that mouse never heard of it before.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378580",
"author": "Graham",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T02:29:29",
"content": "I could only see myself jamming my fingers in the blades and hurting myself/breaking it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378635",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T05:21:32",
"content": "i wish i knew what i did with that old Vantec tornado..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378652",
"author": "aEx155",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T05:52:42",
"content": "Yes, there is a controller that has this feature built in (Nyko Airflow).I believe that the intent of doing this and not just using that is to use the newer 360 controller, and to have wireless capabilities.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "399390",
"author": "macdova",
"timestamp": "2011-05-29T01:09:33",
"content": "I think its a good idea. of course like all ideas it can be improved but I like this. I think im gonna try and do something similar with some mods. maybe add a battery for the fan and of course a much smaller fan. great idea though!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "399391",
"author": "macdova",
"timestamp": "2011-05-29T01:14:16",
"content": "OK so i just looked at a controller and some fans…I decided I dont play enough to get my hands that sweaty. However I know of some people who hade “hand sweating issues” I dont so no need for it. I could see however how a fan could be attachment and no need for holes. all you would need is to let up on the controller a bit and the air from the fan would base under the controller between it and your hands. just a though good luck. with an on/off switch would be good to go",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "399458",
"author": "TallPaul",
"timestamp": "2011-05-29T08:49:35",
"content": "Haters gonna hateYeah it’s not the best build in the world, but it does the job so why so much negativity?For the record, some people just sweat more then others, maybe he really gets in to his gaming",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "399518",
"author": "Neuroman42",
"timestamp": "2011-05-29T16:22:36",
"content": "DIY hacks are worthwhile when they are simple, elegant, cheap, and functional. This is one involves hacking your controller to bits and having crap hanging off of it. FAIL!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "480994",
"author": "Ellis O",
"timestamp": "2011-10-16T04:11:44",
"content": "Actually a very nice vented controller is coming that has even vented buttons and fan controller speed.http://www.techguide.com.au/reviews/gaming/576-air-flo-controllers-help-players-keep-their-cool",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.294095
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/10/flipflop-clock-uses-mains-frequency-to-keep-time/
|
FlipFlop Clock Uses Mains Frequency To Keep Time
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"clock hacks"
] |
[
"7 segment",
"breadboard",
"clock",
"flipflop"
] |
One afternoon, [Sam] was a bit bored and
decided he would build a clock
. Not wanting to spend any money on the project, he set off to construct his clock using only the components he had on hand – this meant no micro controllers would be used whatsoever.
Built on a set of four breadboards, his clock sports a pretty short parts list. It uses just over a dozen flipflops, a few NAND chips, a 555 timer, and a small handful of other components. What you won’t find on the bill of materials however, is any sort of crystal or real-time clock. Instead of using a separate chip for keeping time, he opted to use the 60hz mains frequency as the basis for his time keeping.
The mains sine wave is passed through a series of frequency dividers to reach a 1/60hz signal, which is used to trigger the clock counters he constructed. The time is displayed on a 4-digit seven segment display, using a pair of multiplexers clocked by a 555 timer.
The clock seems to work nicely, though you have to be pretty well-versed in how the clock was built to set the time. The only means of doing so is to probe into the clock of the digit you are setting while pressing the lone pushbutton mounted on the breadboard.
While we are pretty sure no one will ever mess with his clock’s time, we have to wonder if it blinks on and off like our old VCR when the power goes out.
| 33
| 33
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377846",
"author": "spiritplumber",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T21:48:51",
"content": "This is a piece of art!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377850",
"author": "Dax",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T21:52:59",
"content": "Or you could bypass a frequency divider to step the clock faster to set time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377858",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T22:20:19",
"content": "“using only the components he had on hand – this meant no micro controllers would be used whatsoever.”I’m shocked that someone who has that many flip-flips and analog components and even a VFD “on hand” doesn’t have even one PIC or ATTiny or MSP sitting around somewhere…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377864",
"author": "pcordes",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T22:30:40",
"content": "Once upon a time all clocks(analog and digital) kept time using mains frequency and frequency divider circuits instead of crystals. However one drawback is while the frequency may be around 50Hz or 60Hz depending on area it can vary due to any number of factors which leads to an inaccuracy in the timing of the clock.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377865",
"author": "Ḿr Man",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T22:35:32",
"content": "At my university, this is a required project a digital electronics introductory class. Designing it from scratch is no easy task",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377868",
"author": "Big Bear",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T22:37:20",
"content": "In our first semester at school we had to build circuits like that, made of discrete parts. Most of the time was spent wiring! I bet he took all day making those wires that neat, too. So I would be able to get that circuit figured out. You just have to start from that 555 output and work your way through the flip-flops.Then next semester, bam! Complex Programmable Logic Devices. No more wiring :) (only -digital- wires)Makes you realize the pure awesomeness of Micro-controllers, we take them for granted now, but XX years ago pretty much everything was built that way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377894",
"author": "Philippe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T23:25:39",
"content": "Nice job!@spiritplumberNo, no, it uses the same principles and *this* is a piece of art:http://www.vf.utwente.nl/~ptdeboer/ham/neonclock/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377908",
"author": "Brennan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T23:49:08",
"content": "It’s a cool project. From what I understand, the clock will be accurate long-term, but in the short term it could be fast/slow by as much as 10 seconds.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377961",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T02:06:07",
"content": "This is not a hack but I agree is a (geeky) piece of art.Back in the days when uC were popular, I recall building a clock using a 10k OSC as source and a bunch of divider to get to 1Hz…For the future generations, this may become a lost art.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377965",
"author": "Kyle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T02:12:50",
"content": "I love seeing this sort of thing. Reminds me of the stuff I studied when learning electronics. None of this microcontroller nonsense, just plain ol’ building blocks. Very nice.@PhilippeThat’s awesome. Cool concept, cool execution. Definitely bookmarked.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377976",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T02:35:37",
"content": "Unfortunately, though this is awesome, and something I could not bring myself to do in “spare time” because i was bored, but this wont keep time very well,as mains sucks :(Also, needs a bigger LCD for more awesome.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377980",
"author": "natrix",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T02:41:32",
"content": "An interesting implementation of an old scheme, Telechron synchronized their clocks using the power grid in the early 20th century.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377983",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T02:48:24",
"content": "You haven’t lived and breathed electronics until you have made one of these! Hahaha… I made one in high school, so did my buddy Jason. I have photos of mine in an album somewhere.Congrats on a beautiful effort there, it might not be completely accurate… but who the hell cares? Go grab a cheap quartz movement if you want accuracy, this is NOT for relying on the time. This is for looking at the wiring and saying, “holy crap that’s a lot of work”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377984",
"author": "Frank",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T02:48:58",
"content": "I think I actually recognize that clock, I’ve built it a couple times before on breadboard when I was bored. Sans the 60Hz sync, and with a crystal instead. It’s a downright TTL graveyard, TTL chips nicely in row and column just like tombstones. :DThat aside, putting something like that up on breadboard is a very relaxing activity, almost meditation-like. :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378043",
"author": "Slanderer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T05:53:36",
"content": "Not only is this an old technique, it was something that power companies took into account.The short-term timing may be off, but the frequency is compensated on a daily basis in order to make up for time lost or gained during the day. It’s precise enough for a wall clock, and the compensation means that long-term drift is effectively decoupled for short-term frequency error.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378063",
"author": "Andrew Parting",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T07:08:45",
"content": "+1 macw, rather than buying his electronics while tripping on acid he sohuld sit back and pick up a arduino or two.Not that this isn’t cool",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378067",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T07:12:20",
"content": "Although i do admire him for the pacience of wiring, that breadboard is more expensive than a microcontroller stuck on the back of the display. I mean, if the clock is permanent, the breadboard stays.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378148",
"author": "spiritplumber",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T10:46:14",
"content": "Wow the nixie thing rocks too!Well now that a micro is a few dollars tops, doing without is something you do for the sake of art, I’d argue :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378187",
"author": "Quan-Time",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T11:59:41",
"content": "As others have clearly stated, this is nothing new. Since the 50s many of the first “digital” clocks took their timing freq from mains supply.<– ex power station worker. Some of the pictures and tests rigs ive got would make your head spin.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378248",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T14:28:09",
"content": "OMG TEH MAINZ!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378254",
"author": "DENNISSTR674",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T14:43:27",
"content": "Funny,I remember playing with a 1969 RCA ELE CALCULATOR,if you intered x div by sq root it would open a type of pulse counter?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378332",
"author": "Dan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T16:46:16",
"content": "hmm not really anything new. Many old clocks worked off of mains freq. Unfortunately they never kept accurate time because the freq always varies throughout the day.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378397",
"author": "Jac Goudsmit",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T19:13:23",
"content": "We seem to have the same discussion about the “inaccurate” mains frequency every time someone makes a main-based clock…http://hackaday.com/2010/04/07/logic-clock-without-an-on-board-oscillator/http://hackaday.com/2010/04/30/using-ac-frequency-as-a-clock-signal/http://hackaday.com/2011/01/16/binary-clock-using-logic-chips-and-mains-frequency/Bottom line: Although the frequency may vary somewhat in the short run, in the long run a mains-controlled clock is really very accurate — accurate enough for everyday human use. You probably don’t need to ever adjust any mains-based clocks except after a power outage or when daylight savings time starts/ends.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378470",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T20:48:01",
"content": "“we have to wonder if it blinks on and off like our old VCR when the power goes out.”Well, since he describes the counters as incrementing from 0 and feeding directly into the multiplexer (with no microcontrollers), it seems fairly easy to deduce.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378769",
"author": "Dizzle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T13:13:10",
"content": "This was a fun, easy project in my first college electronics class. My roommate and I took it a little further, making six digits (hh:mm:ss), an alarm, and a simple means to set both. (To set the time, we used a couple switches to increment the time either quickly or slowly.)We had used so many protoboards and wires by the end, we called it the rat’s nest alarm.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379638",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T19:28:06",
"content": "Yes, you jackasses, you can wire up an arduino to a display and show the time. Hey guys why even bother doing that, I can just set my computer to display the time in big letters on the monitor!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379666",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T20:17:34",
"content": "@John, easy buddy… only one guy mentioned Arduinos and he wasn’t really even saying to build a clock with one… he was maybe suggesting it to have around for future projects instead of too many flip-flops.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379678",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T20:44:06",
"content": "@John, You’re a clown, go troll somewhere else before I make my Arduino kick your ass.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379834",
"author": "Sam",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T02:39:49",
"content": "Thanks for the comments guys!To resolve any confusion I have plenty of microcontrollers lying around, I just wanted to challenge myself to work with hardware exclusively. It took an afternoon to design the circuit and a couple more to wire everything up. I’m happy with the result. Next step: move it to protoboard… maybe.@PhilippeI’ve seen that piece before, absolutely brilliant! I hope to build something similar once I get out of school.@DaxI will probably implement that setting scheme one of these days.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "387577",
"author": "mikey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-28T20:08:36",
"content": "@pcordes: Actually the power grid is adjusted every now and then to keep time. One day, it might be 59Hz, but the next, it’ll be 61Hz.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "394796",
"author": "dan",
"timestamp": "2011-05-16T15:30:01",
"content": "the mains frequency is never compensated.the guys in the grid control don’t see that the “clock” ran slow one day and speed it up the next.the frequency changes with power draw, so when a very large load hits the grid the frequency is slowed slightly until this is compensated for by the power company generating more power, and when more than enough power is produced the frequency will be greater than the mean frequency. (until production is reduced).it’d be interesting to leave the clock running to see just how much the power has fluctuated on the grid, and I would agree that averaged out (say over a year) it’s likely to keep near perfect time. (but this is only because times of high load are accompanied by times of low load).the grid must stay within a set frequency range (indeed this is how generators can detect power failure in other parts of the grid and auto shut down other connected parts to make lines safe to work on).on the whole mains frequency is good enough for a clock, who cares if you’re waking up a few seconds later than 6am one week or a few seconds earlier the next? but it’s not going to be good enough to provide a clock for accurate timing gear.as for the project it’s pretty cool.a more accurate source for the timing would be a local AM radio station. (in the UK Radio 4 at 198Khz), this could be guaranteed never to lose time in a way that mains voltage just can’t.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "417335",
"author": "Craig F",
"timestamp": "2011-07-14T04:44:20",
"content": "FYI…the North American Electric Reliability Council (NERC) is proposing to enter a year-long field trial whereby utilities will no longer correct for long-term accumulated Time Error by purposefully under or over-generating from 60HZ by 0.02 hz for hours at a time to keep accumulated Time Error within a band of seconds (+/- 5 seconds in the west). This field trial was set to begin July 14, 2011, but has now been delayed out until at least September 2011.When this goes into effect, Time Error in the Eastern Interconnection will drift about 20 minutes fast per year. In the western side of the states, time will drift up to 8 minutes per year.If any of you have concerns about this proposed field trial, especially in regards to commercial/industrial applications, please forward your concerns totec@nerc.com.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "575692",
"author": "RBee",
"timestamp": "2012-02-05T06:44:31",
"content": "Actually the frequency of the AC varies through the course of the day due to things like load changing. Each grid does do modifications every so often to add or take away cycles to make sure there have been 24*60*60 pulses per day. They have mentioned experimenting with taking that correction out of the grid, however I’d doubt it will happen for a while. Too many clock radios and wall clocks in older buildings that would go awry.You can always check the current US power grid at FNET (measured at various points using GPS-DOs):http://fnetpublic.utk.edu/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.132298
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/10/pic-based-temperature-logger-with-onboard-storage/
|
PIC-based Temperature Logger With Onboard Storage
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Microcontrollers",
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"eeprom",
"pic",
"temperature sensor"
] |
Last summer, [Rajendra Bhatt] built himself
a simple PIC-based temperature monitor
with data logging abilities and recently got around to sharing it on his site. The sensor is based on a PIC12F683 micro controller and measures the ambient temperature on a set interval, storing the values on the MCU’s internal EEPROM.
He used a Maxim DS18B20 temperature sensor, which communicates with the PIC over a 1-wire bus. The sensor is read based upon the interval chosen by the user, and can be configured to measure the temperature every second, every minute, or every 10 minutes. The data is stored on the aforementioned EEPROM and can be uploaded to a computer via a serial connection. The PIC has the ability to store 254 readings before the data must be cleared from the device.
It’s a great beginner project, and has plenty of room for improvement. As [Rajendra] points out, an external EEPROM could be added to expand the recording capacity, and it would be nice to have a real-time clock on hand for accurate time stamping. If we were to build one ourselves, a means of wireless data transfer would be first on our list of potential enhancements.
| 5
| 5
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377826",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T20:50:19",
"content": "I’d love to see this expanded to SD card storage.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378058",
"author": "MORA",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T06:54:20",
"content": "Small SD cards (<1GB) are fairly easy, since they can be used over a SPI link and has a small blocksize.Even FAT16/32 is possible with low end micro controllers, so the card can be read in a PC.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378524",
"author": "jhaluska",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T23:31:26",
"content": "Mora, I’ve interfaced a micro with 4GB SD cards. All non micro SD cards can be interfaced with SPI. Per the spec, micro SD cards aren’t guaranteed to support SPI, but I haven’t found one that doesn’t.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378705",
"author": "MORA",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T09:06:13",
"content": "Yes up to 4GB can work, but over 1GB there can be a few problems.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_digital#SD_cards_.28non-SDHC.29_with_greater_than_1.C2.A0GB_capacity",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "380478",
"author": "nur",
"timestamp": "2011-04-15T02:58:11",
"content": "by any chance, can you also post the code for VB? Thanks",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.393261
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/10/brainwave-based-assistive-technology-in-the-home/
|
Brainwave-based Assistive Technology In The Home
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"home hacks",
"Medical Hacks"
] |
[
"als",
"assistive technology",
"eeg",
"smart home"
] |
Amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS) is a debilitating disease that eventually causes the afflicted individual to lose all control of their motor functions, while leaving their mental faculties intact. Those suffering from the illness typically live for only a handful of years before succumbing to the disease. On some occasions however, patients can live for long periods after their original diagnosis, and in those cases assistive technology becomes a key component in their lives.
[Alon Bukai and Ofir Benyamin], students at Ort Hermalin Collage in Israel, have been working hard on creating
an EEG-controlled smart house for ALS patients
under the guidance of their advisor [Amnon Demri]. The core of their project focuses around controlling everyday household items using brainwaves. They use an Emotiv EPOC EEG headset which monitors the user’s brainwaves when focusing on several large buttons displayed on a computer screen. These buttons are mapped to different functions, ranging from turning lights on and off to changing channels on a cable box. When the user focuses on a particular task, the computer analyzes the headset’s output and relays the command to the proper device.
As of right now, the EEG-controlled home is only a project for their degree program, but we hope that their efforts help spur on further advancements in this field of research.
Continue reading to see a pair of videos demonstrating their EEG-controlled smart house in action.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJ-mkT6qw9Y&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQrytBbSbsA&w=470]
| 11
| 11
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377827",
"author": "Amnon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T20:52:59",
"content": "HiThey are doing great job.This system is the last in a series of project we are doing an the last few years at Ort Hramlin :We had the speech controlled wheel chair :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDvF975JVMQ&feature=relatedthe eye communication system :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8G6odSFh6I&feature=relatedand the EMG controlled prosthesis :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aOCFlLbcnY&feature=relatedThis EEG system will work a month or tow an a real ALS patient house, and not only as a practical engineers project !Amnon – projects guide",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377890",
"author": "Philippe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T23:14:07",
"content": "“Once ALS is diagnosed the patient will slowly loose the ability to control his body…”Then don’t diagnose it!Or consider rephrasing…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378042",
"author": "Alon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T05:49:36",
"content": "Hello I am one of the students working on this project. If anyone has any constructive criticism I would love to hear it. You can email me at:SmartHouseEEG@gmail.comWe also have a Facebook page that you can join.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378127",
"author": "Al",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T09:38:34",
"content": "impressive! How old are the students here? is it going towards commercialization or it’s only a Uni project?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378163",
"author": "Ladrua",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T11:10:46",
"content": "I work a lot with people with this disease. The most common solution we use are the eye tracking from tobii.. check it out athttp://www.tobii.com. Great for communications and enviorment control with Gewa IR systems. Realy interesting work with the brainwaves.. Is there more details about this project exept videoes?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378184",
"author": "Nick",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T11:50:48",
"content": "This is really great!What language did you use and can u give me the other tools u used?Please email me atrssConnects@gmail.comThank you very much!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378199",
"author": "Alon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T12:31:55",
"content": "We are going to be putting up more info on our Facebook page:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Smart-House-EEG-Project/112167752198553So be sure to join that if you want to find out more.We (The Students) are both 20 years old.Ladrua: We know about eye tracking. The reason this system is being built is because at a certain point even the eyes stop functioning.Nick: I will also email you. We use C# for almost all of the coding. We used an IR Transceiver which we bought online as well as the EPOC Helmet from Emotiv.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378211",
"author": "Ladrua",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T13:20:32",
"content": "Alon: I have a user that is getting verry tierd when using his eyes.. I think this would be great for him. I use programs like Communicator and Programsnekker for building the interfaces for them. They are both norwegian programs.http://www.tobii.no/corporate/products/communicator.aspxandhttp://www.abilia.no/produkter/?group=1553&prod=4087feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I just added my self to the FB page. My name is Stian Conrad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378263",
"author": "Alon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T15:05:27",
"content": "By the way, if anyone was wondering, this project is being done at Ort Hermelin Netanya, Israel",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378296",
"author": "Falcone",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T15:33:37",
"content": "Awesome work you guys, i think you really pump hope through ALS patients all over the world",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "383280",
"author": "sensor headset",
"timestamp": "2011-04-20T08:49:52",
"content": "Hmmm, imagine how this would work if someone were getting directions while driving. Committing the next few turns to memory while intending to move forward could cause some unwanted results.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.44062
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/10/hackaday-reader-throwdown-electronic-dice/
|
Hackaday Reader Throwdown: Electronic Dice
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Microcontrollers",
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"7 segment",
"attiny",
"dice"
] |
Hackaday reader [Daid]
posted in our forums
showing off a set of electronic dice he recently constructed. Back in January,
we featured a similar set of electronic dice
built with an Arduino that was way overpowered as far as [Daid] was concerned. Not satisfied with simply saying it could be done better,
he put his money where his mouth is
– something we would love to see more of.
He used an ATTiny2313 to provide the device’s logic, outputting the dice values on a set of four 7 segment displays. The whole setup is controlled by a single push button that serves triple duty rolling the dice, configuring how many sides the dice have, as well as selecting how many dice are being thrown.
He admits that the wiring job is a bit of a mess, but he was going for function over form, and it works just fine. He also says that he would have finished it far sooner if it hadn’t been for
those meddling kids
some broken 7 segment displays.
We think he did quite a nice job, though we’re all ears if you think you can do it better.
| 5
| 5
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377810",
"author": "Halexander",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T20:14:09",
"content": "And don’t forget their faithful canine companion, Scoo- oh, you know the rest.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377832",
"author": "Ryan leach",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T21:07:24",
"content": "First off, good work daid for putting your money where you mouth is when it comes to these arduino posts.@bty your right its getting a bit like makesomethingeachdayfriend of mines first year uni project is a 6 sided dice with a 7 segment and 1 button, no micro-controller at all, but has less functionality.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377909",
"author": "Daid",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T23:54:43",
"content": ":|Ok, didn’t think it would make ‘frontpage’ by a long shot, else I would have done a better write-up with code, schematics and everything.It’s just something I build in 2 evenings because I was bored. And remembered that I had a goal for those 7 segment displays.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377989",
"author": "bluewraith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T03:00:26",
"content": "Good job. :)Kinda cool that someone wanted to beat me. I was just using up some parts and testing what I could make with them.Once I finish moving ill have to upgrade my board with a temp sensor and give it a few more options. Right now there’s a NightScan light tower and a late 80s ECM machine on the priority list though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378665",
"author": "Greg",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T06:33:50",
"content": "Tweaking idea: how about using a tilt sensor or accelerometer to trigger a “roll”?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.524482
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/10/doom-ii-on-epaper-display/
|
Doom II On Epaper Display
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"handhelds hacks"
] |
[
"doom",
"e-ink",
"epaper",
"freescale",
"Pearl"
] |
We love to see Doom ported to new hardware because it usually means that someone has found a way around the manufacturer’s security measures. But the most exciting thing for us to see this time is that
Doom II is played on an epaper display
. These are notorious for slow refresh rates, but as you can see in the video after the break, this one achieves an admirably fast page redraw.
According to
a translation of the original forum post
, the PocketBook 360° Plus boasts a 5″
E Ink Pearl screen
, 533 MHz Freescale i.MX35 ARM11 processor, 128 Mb of RAM, 2 gigs of storage, and WiFi. No word on price for one of these babies as it seems they’ve not yet been release. Remind anyone of the green monochrome goodness from the original Game Boy?
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOPZrVsCEHg&w=470]
[Thanks Michail via
SlashGear
]
| 17
| 16
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377659",
"author": "Chris Rojas",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T15:35:32",
"content": "Pretty impressive.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377661",
"author": "ian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T15:36:20",
"content": "Wow! Way faster than I expected. The eink displays are getting better.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377674",
"author": "Olestra",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T16:23:36",
"content": "they cost $129. they’ve been available for about 6 months or so…http://shop.pocketbookreader.com/PocketBook-360-PB360.htm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "377702",
"author": "Willemite",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T17:38:06",
"content": "I think it needs the new ‘plus’ version and that link is to the standard 360. Even the CPU is different.",
"parent_id": "377674",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "377675",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T16:25:34",
"content": "Pretty cool. I wouldn’t really enjoy playing at that speed but it shows that the screens are advancing and that they can be used for things other than reading ebooks.Is there a lifespan on these screens? Like X updates or something?BTW anyone know if HaD will be using Ajax for the comment section so we can comment without having the page disrupted (ie when watching videos).Background music to the video was super annoying.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377684",
"author": "jaqen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T16:52:59",
"content": "luckily sound can be turned off :-)Reminds me of the first time i tried a laptop, back when they were black and white. The original Prince of Persia looked very funny with the refresh rate of that screen, making the characters drag a shadow along. At times this seems to do the same.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377700",
"author": "JeremyC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T17:32:43",
"content": "Ha, that’s hilarious! Nice work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377701",
"author": "Jon - NJ - CLICK ME",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T17:33:00",
"content": "Quality techno freshness in every bite.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377738",
"author": "J. Peterson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T18:39:36",
"content": "Very impressive.I can’t help but wonder what happens to the battery life though; there’s a big gap between turning a page every few seconds and updating a frame a dozen times a second.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377905",
"author": "ZeUs",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T23:40:15",
"content": "Any word on Epaper displays for DIY purposes?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377928",
"author": "Desmond",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T00:45:24",
"content": "@ZeUs Sadly none yet. There are some developer kits available but they cost several grand for the kit and one display. The closest thing available is the Kent Display from Sparkfun.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377939",
"author": "Rich Chuang",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T01:16:24",
"content": "This actually happen at March of 2010, not a newshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsXfcb9Mpzc",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377985",
"author": "whiskthecat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T02:50:17",
"content": "Heres some similar displays that aren’t ridiculously priced. Not the exact same tech but it might be useful to serve a similar purpose.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377986",
"author": "whiskthecat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T02:50:45",
"content": "Forgot the link.http://www.mouser.com/sharpmemorylcd/?cm_mmc=Mar11Email-_-eNews-_-22Newsletter-_-SharpImg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378047",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T06:12:00",
"content": "Doom music in any form other than the original MIDIs played with an OPL3 sound card is awful. Amazing with OPL3 though. :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378077",
"author": "RIUM+",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T07:46:08",
"content": "There seems to be some slight ghosting between frames… I guess they managed the high update speed by not blanking the display in-between frames like a lot of e-readers do.So who’ll be first to port ScummVM to this? :D A mostly static game like Myst would be perfect for this display.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "579226",
"author": "Greenaum",
"timestamp": "2012-02-09T21:09:39",
"content": "Can you turn the damn music off!? Doesn’t seem to be coming from the videos. Very amusing and everything but screws up the audio from the vids, and is WAY TOO LOUD!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.581534
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/10/are-phones-with-haptic-feedback-in-our-future/
|
Are Phones With Haptic Feedback In Our Future?
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Cellphone Hacks"
] |
[
"haptic",
"rotary encoder",
"spring",
"sqeeze"
] |
Can we do away with a keypad and just squeeze our phones to check messages and dial contacts? [Sidhant Gupta] has been
researching the idea of an electronically adjustable spring mechanism
that might just make this possible. He calls the prototype above the SqueezeBlock. If you pick it up and give it a squeeze you can feel springs pushing back against your fingers, but it’s all a trick. Inside you’ll find one motor with a gear that converts the linear motion into a rotating force. Attached to the same axle as that gear are a motor and a rotary encoder. A microcontroller monitors that encoder to detect a user squeezing the two plates together, then drives the motor to vary the resistance. [Sidhant] outlines some possible uses that included stiffer resistence as unread email starts to pile up, or squeezing the device to its smallest size to turn the ringer volume all the way down.
We’re a little skeptical of this functionality in handhelds just because of the power consumption issue. But if that is somehow overcome we think this would make a pretty interesting phone feature… at least at first. Click through the link above for a video demonstration or get the details from
the research presentation
(PDF)
[Thanks Dan]
| 9
| 9
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377640",
"author": "Adam Outler",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T15:14:13",
"content": "I think we all know that electro-motive parts and parts which the user touches are the first to fail. Mostly that which the user touches. If this idea is deemed good for phones, it will be many years before it is implemented. The main factor would be failure rate.Another problem I see with this device is the mechanical portion. Not, just failure, but wear. The electro-motive spring mechanism requires a mechanical piston effect. Just like in your car, a piston will wear out. In a smaller electronic device, this piston would be subject to 120+psi (my own grip strength). Near the end of it’s life, my iPhone’s case would squeak and creak when I would apply a death grip to it. Smaller form factors mean less rigidity in the structure.The next factor would be size concerns. How would you squeeze the squeeze-block without having wasted, empty space inside the device? One of the biggest concerns in mobile electronics is the size of the device. People want bigger screens, larger processors, better battery life…. but the reviews on those devices always say that they are too big.For now, haptic feedback is used on my Android phone in the form of vibration on soft-touch buttons. Maybe a squeeze-block-esque device could use vibration to let the user push a button and feel the intensity of vibration to let him or her know that there are more emails to be read?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377657",
"author": "jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T15:30:01",
"content": "@Adam Outler,Apple already has several patents on haptic feedback for phones:http://www.tuaw.com/2010/06/25/apple-patents-another-haptic-feedback-solution/Although a slightly different implementation, the ideas are the same, and it shows the interest of phone companies such technologies.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377670",
"author": "Simonious",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T16:06:29",
"content": "Power shouldn’t be an issue, that squeezing motion should be easy to harness for power generation. Heck it should have a mode where the squeezing only generates power, maybe people would stop chewing their pens in meetings and start squeezing their phones (better? probably not).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377678",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T16:34:11",
"content": "@Simonious: The device uses power to spring back out. Every time you squeeze it together it has to use power to open back up again, thus negating any power generated.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377730",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T18:33:43",
"content": "If a spring is used to open it up there can still be a net gain in energy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377779",
"author": "Adam Outler",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T19:16:04",
"content": "@jordan That implementation is lame to say the least. I cannot immagine that being useful. it would actuate the entire screen up and down. That would make the screen feel flimsy and leave no structural rigity. Also, a bit of dirt getting into the side would cause issues in the phone. Look at that design. It would allow for about 1mm of movement.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377788",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T19:34:20",
"content": "@sneakypooMotion consumes no energy. So long as the resistance used for the power generation cycle is removed and the device is allowed to spring back out on its own, you’ll have energy gain. Imagine magnetic breaks being applied while squeezing and the same breaks being removed or blocked when it springs back. The problem is getting a working system at the size of a cellphone.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377789",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T19:36:12",
"content": "This seems more practical:http://www.newscientist.com/article/dn19510-nokia-touchscreen-creates-texture-illusion.htmlWho wants to make the first DIY version and get sued?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378053",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T06:36:57",
"content": "@Bob: But this device uses the little motor inside for movement, both in and out. There is no mechanical spring to allow it to open back up, that would defeat the whole purpose of the device; being a virtual spring.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.627569
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/10/webcam-images-processed-and-played-back-on-led-display/
|
Webcam Images Processed And Played Back On LED Display
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"LED Hacks"
] |
[
"Atmel",
"fpslic",
"led",
"matlab",
"matrix"
] |
[Mathieu] has bee working to refine the code running on an LED matrix, and
added some neat display tricks along the way
. He wanted to make the display directly addressable from a computer. The
96×64 bi-color LED display
is powered by an Atmel FPSLIC and already used double-buffering. Enabling a PC to write directly to one of the buffers was not too hard, requiring just a bit of optimization to get the timing right. From the look of the video after the break, he nailed it.
The video feed is generated from a webcam stream using Matlab to process each image. Just 50 lines of code captures a frame, sizes it appropriately, converts the result to black and white for edge detection, then finishes the job by compressing image data for transmission to the embedded processor. We’d like to say it’s easier that it sounds but we’re pretty impressed with this work. The display manages about 42 Hz with the current setup.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILnxZHLTEpE&w=470]
| 13
| 13
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377605",
"author": "BitMage",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T13:42:18",
"content": "Trippy, I want one.(Also, first post!)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377607",
"author": "Roon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T13:46:40",
"content": "I’d like to see this done with kinect… I imagine you could get some great results that way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377611",
"author": "Trent",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T13:59:50",
"content": "Count down to this being used in a band’s music video – 3…2…1…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377696",
"author": "alan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T17:17:12",
"content": "Would be cool to have the camera pointed at the DJ in a club with the big image behind him.Not sure it would be practical to build a massive LED wall though..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377697",
"author": "Michael Bradley",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T17:17:13",
"content": "I love it, I have been wanting to do this for a long time. Sadly, I just dont know how to code edge detection in C for an embeded app.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377712",
"author": "cmholm",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T18:05:50",
"content": "A quick look at the function calls within Mathieu’s code suggests there’ll be no quick port to Octave or other free alternative. So, anyone without access to MATLAB will have to use the m-code as a guide for a C or Java implementation.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377715",
"author": "limpkin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T18:18:03",
"content": "@Trent & alan: I exactly thought of the same thing ^^@cmholm: well, better than nothing right? My article was just about how easy it is to do such nice stuff without spending too much time, with matlab. As Mathworks usually provides licenses to schools, I thought it could be interesting for other people. I welcome people having more time than me to do the same thing on free tools, and I would be very happy to edit my post with their work! :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377786",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T19:33:00",
"content": "I don’t know what to say except I am impressed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377880",
"author": "w00tb0t",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T23:03:08",
"content": "Old droid sparkfuns ioio “yoyo” led array and I think I have a new project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377913",
"author": "cmholm",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T00:13:01",
"content": "@limpkin, absolutely. Given that MATLAB function documentation is readily available on-line, I think someone could code up alternatives without too much hassle.Lemme see if I’m smart enough to prove it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377956",
"author": "hekilledmywire",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T01:44:11",
"content": "This is very easy to do using OpenCv, that is really just a CvCvtColor(CV_RGB2GRAY), CvCanny(…) and a for loop that will look for the desired threshold, thats a weekend project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378136",
"author": "Gunpowder",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T10:20:24",
"content": "You don’t need a LED wall for a club DJ display, just route it to a projector using vectors or dots..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378383",
"author": "Robot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:35:14",
"content": "This is neat; but the MATLAB image processing is done using the Image Processing Tool Box, which is not cheap. However as suggested above, OpenCV will do a credible job of this.Personally, I love MATLAB but do find it to be a pain to interface m-code with the real world. This person does a nice job of using the serial port for that task.– Robot",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.943578
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/10/hackaday-links-april-10-2011/
|
Hackaday Links: April 10, 2011
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Hackaday links"
] |
[
"fiber optics",
"game boy",
"kids",
"toilet paper"
] |
Sunlit LCD screen
[A.J.] did some experiments and managed to
replace his LCD backlight using fiber optics and the sun
.
Game Boy LCD Repair
[Alan] found that he could
fix dead columns on his Game Boy LCD screen
with a little reflow work on the connector.
3DS Design Flaw?
Anyone having problems with the way their Nintendo 3DS closes? [Jeroen] noticed that his screen touches the other half of the device when closed.
He added rubber feet to protect it
, but we wonder if anyone else has noticed this issue?
Mac TP dispenser
This one takes iLife to a new level. Never poop without Apple’s consent again thanks to this
Macintosh toilet paper dispenser
. [Thanks Rob]
Children are the future
Here’s a heart warming way to end; [Bret] is
teaching his 5-year-old son to solder
. There’s a video that is sure to put a smile on your face. You’ll remember [Bret] (aka [FightCube]) from
the adjustable prank box
, a few
555 timer contest submissions
, and several other hacks. We expect big things from your progeny!
| 19
| 19
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377593",
"author": "ftorama",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T12:58:32",
"content": "OMG, that’s the first time I see something useful from Apple ^^",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377594",
"author": "Hipcat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T13:06:02",
"content": "“We expect big things from your progeny!”like an Ironman suit :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377600",
"author": "adam",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T13:37:44",
"content": "+1 on teaching your kid to solder. I have a three year old and anytime I work on a project he’s around always asking questions. I explain as much as I can but there is nothing like hands on experience. I can’t wait to be able to let him try it on his own.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377610",
"author": "Mustafa",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T13:55:23",
"content": "I hope Bret is teaching using leadfree solder",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377616",
"author": "Andrew Parting",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T14:19:54",
"content": "I get what he’s saying about the top being scuffed by the bottom. They aren’t scratches.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377636",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T15:06:16",
"content": "HA! I have the same traffic light from many years ago.And what @ftorama said.I heard apple installed a remote tp removal if you try to use non apple approved tp. And forgot trying to jailbreak it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377646",
"author": "Rob",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T15:20:59",
"content": "Mac on the floor, Windows in the bowl.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377648",
"author": "Alex",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T15:22:17",
"content": "That sunlit LCD reminds me of my old Sony Mavica camera. It had a backlight, but it also had a translucent strip on top to allow in light.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377717",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T18:19:46",
"content": "Regarding the sunlit LCD display…Could this be a way of create inexpensive sunlight readable displays? Maybe still have standard light if not enough is coming in from the sun.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377773",
"author": "anti-fanboi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T18:57:12",
"content": "Finally an Apple product I can get “behind”…Perhaps it could do with some iSteve portrait paper?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377824",
"author": "joe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T20:48:44",
"content": "Sunlit backlight… As a ‘green’ technology… FAIL. What kind of resources are required to produce the amount of fiber to support that.. What kind of resources are required to produce an LED backlit or EL backlit display? How do they measure up? That’s like saying a Prius is green because it uses less gas.. And forget to mention how much pollution is produced to manufacture the batteries, not to mention disposal, etc..We should think about the bigger picture, not how cool it is to replace one thing with another and disregard the rest of the facts.. And before someone says surplus fiber, think about sustainability…I’ll also throw in the fact that I know the word ‘green’ was probably not used to describe this backlight, etc.. So please dispense with the anal over-analysis and rhetorical flaming… I’m just throwing in my .04 cents.. =)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377861",
"author": "anti-fanboi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T22:24:01",
"content": "Oh, the irony…. IT BURNS!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377904",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T23:36:44",
"content": "Like the iWipe but you need to replace the TP with EULAs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377992",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T03:06:46",
"content": "Thanks to those of you commenting on my son soldering. He had a blast learning it and blew me away with how quickly he took to it. It always amazes me when I think he might have trouble with something, and then just learns it in a second. He was navigating the iPhone at 3yrs old like a pro, riding a bike before he could hardly reach the pedals, balancing on a two wheeled scooter, speech, reading, writing, drawing, designing, memorizing the “Community – Spanish Rap” (youtube that) – he’s amazing! Now if I could only get him to listen all of the time, he’s so determined to do whatever his brain desires. I try to encourage him to TRY everything… the worst that could happen is he fails, but even in failing he has succeeded in trying. That would be the message I’m trying to send in posting this for everyone, that our kids “can do it” if we encourage them and show them how.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378001",
"author": "dan fruzzetti",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T03:28:30",
"content": "Bret: awesome. I figured age 6 to be an excellent time to teach soldering, but likewise if my girls are ready to curb their physical enthusiasm and maintain a still hand, then age five would be fine as well. It’s extremely important to teach our children all the skills we have.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378034",
"author": "medwardl",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T05:11:23",
"content": "Hey an apple product that I would actually use. I would say I wouldn’t even wipe myself with an apple product mainly because its too hard.. until now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378052",
"author": "SS",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T06:33:33",
"content": "The story with the kid reminds me of this other little genius…http://www.sparkfun.com/news/409",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378157",
"author": "Mr. Name Required",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T11:02:19",
"content": "Brett, I really think what you’re doing is great! Like you, I teach my 2 1/2 year old son pretty much anything I think he’s going to be capable of and within reason. The other day he had fun setting up my little tabletop lathe and (with strict supervision) machining plastic parts for a water rocket we are building together. Before that we built a balloon hovercraft from a cotton reel and a CD, before that a glider, and before that – well I could go on! :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379810",
"author": "ajeromin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T01:27:24",
"content": "Hey Joe.I’m ajeromin. I did the sunlit backlight.I appreciate you pointing those things out. I was just speaking (debating) with some friends the other day about the whole gas vs. electric car thing as well. It is odd that we never hear of the cost, pollution, or future impact of creating and using these technologies.I do tests like this for fun as a hobby just to see what happens. A lot of us on here do. I’d love to change the world in some way for the better, but this is not my field, so my facts on the subject are limited.That being said, I do believe that the sun and wind are our best hope for sustainable, clean energy (and even then there will be pollution and waste from manufacturing solar cells and wind turbines. It’s the price we pay for our technology and leisure addictions.I also fear that the first person or lab to invent completely efficient, low-pollution and cost effective alternative energy production will be celebrated publicly, but threatened and shut down behind the curtains by those that have their lives invested in oil.Just my $0.06.:)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.89286
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/09/growling-doorbell-lets-you-know-guests-have-arrived/
|
Growling Doorbell Lets You Know Guests Have Arrived
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"home hacks",
"iphone hacks"
] |
[
"doorbell",
"growl",
"iphone",
"notification"
] |
[Sean] was screwing around online looking for nothing in particular when he came across a mailbox hacked to notify the homeowner when the mail had been delivered. Since his mail is delivered via a slot in the door, he had no use for the hack as is, but
something similar soon came to mind
.
His dog isn’t too keen on visitors, and he figured that he could save himself a bit of grief (and a lot of unnecessary barking) if he were to wire up his doorbell to notify him of guests via his iPhone. He stopped by the local hardware store and picked up a wireless doorbell. It was quickly disassembled and wired up to an Arduino he had set aside for a different project. Tweaking some code he found online, he soon had the doorbell talking with the Arduino and was ready to interface it with his iPhone. He decided that he wanted to deliver notifications to his phone via Growl and found a Perl script online that was close to what he needed. A few tweaks later, and he had a Growling doorbell.
As you can see in the video below, it works, though there seems to be a bit of a delay in the notification. We don’t think that it would be enough to send his visitors packing before he made it to the door, but the lag can likely be reduced with a few small modifications.
As for the post that started this whole thing, we’re pretty sure
this is it
.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaipAeS–LQ&w=470]
| 16
| 16
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377124",
"author": "ho0d0o",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T17:52:49",
"content": "Not a bad idea. Does seem a bit laggy but then again it sounds like he threw this together pretty quick.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377139",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T18:15:33",
"content": "I have yet to meet a dog that needs the doorbell to let it know someone is at the door.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377213",
"author": "Tropica",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T19:04:15",
"content": "Neat idea, but the lag is awful unfortunately.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377222",
"author": "Pit",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T19:27:40",
"content": "Cool but I prefer this one ;)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0IIwuAmIro4",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377292",
"author": "Dan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T22:04:54",
"content": "Nice idea, but the lag is too long. I’d rather have the door unit call my mobile phone-a common feature in many PBX systems.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377295",
"author": "Sean",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T22:07:06",
"content": "The code has been changed now to reduce the lag considerablyhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcnTDPFDofQ",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377314",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T22:57:04",
"content": "Lol ‘took a while’",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377345",
"author": "Kron",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T23:46:05",
"content": "the delay is really no problem:if you sit in front of an iDevice the whole day at home, you’re most likely a stoner and so are your all friends. waiting 3-5 minutes for the door to open would not be unusual, so the delay here can be neglected.alternatively you could just switch the remote doorbell to vibration/light mode.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377376",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T00:40:29",
"content": "@Kron: Wait… am I understanding you correctly here? You mean to tell me that you will stand and wait at the door for FIVE MINUTES after ringing the bell? Unless I’m ringing the bell on a small castle there’s no way I’m standing around for that long…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377448",
"author": "ino",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T04:38:49",
"content": "Dylan Dog",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377503",
"author": "Austin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T07:14:26",
"content": "Great idea, but the message should read: ‘there WAS someone at the door’",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377555",
"author": "Henrik Pedersen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T10:40:28",
"content": "20 seconds lag… Something is clearly done wrong, no offense… Have a project almost like this, think I will give it a shot just to prove that it can be done faster…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377567",
"author": "Garbz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T11:29:04",
"content": "Anyone else missing the obvious problem that if someone goes and presses on the doorbell and doesn’t get any kind of loud audible feedback that they’ll simply bang on the door anyway?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377671",
"author": "Kron",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T16:15:45",
"content": "@sneackypoo: no i’m not a stoner.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378386",
"author": "brad",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T18:37:48",
"content": "Maybe rig it up to a motion sensor so they don’t even need to ring the bell. As soon as someone walks up to the door it could send the message. You could also rig up some other points to monitor if someone was at the backdoor or sneaking around in the garage.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "529464",
"author": "Luis Sinibaldi",
"timestamp": "2011-12-08T02:34:53",
"content": "Hey,I’m very interested in something like this for myself. Send me an email please.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,219.993207
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/09/how-low-can-you-go/
|
How Low Can You Go?
|
Jason Komp
|
[
"clock hacks",
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"clock",
"launchpad",
"msp430"
] |
That’s exactly what [Kenneth Finnegan] figured out with his
original investigation
into low powered MSP430-based circuits. He was able to keep a count-up timer running off of 20F worth of capacitors for over 10 weeks. Although quite impressive by its own merit, many people left comments that questioned whether similar results would be seen in a circuit with functionality more advanced than simply incrementing a single digit on an LCD. Well folks, [Kenneth] has stepped it up again with this
ultra low power LCD clock
.
The biggest challenge in creating this clock was finding an efficient way to drive the 28 LCD segments off of the limited number of pins on his MSP430G2231 chip while still having open pins for button inputs as well. An ICM7211 LCD driver is definitely up for the task (with a few clever modifications to drive the auxiliary characters such as the center colon), but requires 8 pins to drive it. A standard 74HC595 latching shift register brings this number down to a more manageable number of 3 total pins.
Once completed the total current consumption was found to be around 12μA – low enough for a claimed run-time of approximately two and a half years from the 3V 200mAh CR2032 coin cell used. If true, a set of standard AA alkaline cells in series as found in many clocks would run this little circuit for decades.
Stick around for a short video after the break and make sure to check out the
original blog entry
for schematics and the complete source code!
| 29
| 29
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377060",
"author": "MRC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T16:19:41",
"content": "he built a prototype wrist watch.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377078",
"author": "DXWXC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T16:56:18",
"content": "This is cool. I remember that brother-in law had a digital watch, I believe from Timex, that ran close to, if not over, 10 years on the same set of batteries.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377080",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T16:59:01",
"content": "Absolutely incredible. This man is god. Can we get him as an author here? Certainly better than most.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377082",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T17:06:05",
"content": "What is the purpose of this clock? Does he need a clock? I doubt that. Is it that hard to make some simple math calculations to get the current consumption and battery life time? No.So, apart from some of his great work, what is the purpose of this thing?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377105",
"author": "rusty",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T17:35:09",
"content": "Guess what?! I got a fever, and the only prescription is more clocks!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377112",
"author": "SteveO",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T17:45:30",
"content": "how can ppl miss the point of this? function is not the goal: lowest possible power consumption is. No one asks a sprinter “whats the point of running 100m? do you need to be 100m away?” no, the point is to do something faster, better, more efficiently. geez. give the dude a break. who cares whether he made a clock or automobile engine. this one is the most efficient one he has made yet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377128",
"author": "DRR",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T18:04:10",
"content": "He made the calculations that it will last 2 years, but did he take into account that the voltage of the button battery will drop below acceptable levels before that?Pretty awesome regardless!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377185",
"author": "mjrippe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T18:30:14",
"content": "Too bad a pair of AA batteries would be a corroded mess before the clock would stop running!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377218",
"author": "DanJ",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T19:23:15",
"content": "Thanks SteveO! I never understand the comments bashing someone’s project. Is it jealousy? Insecurity? Immaturity?He spelled out his goals very clearly. He probably learned quite a bit and he successfully met his goals. And he shared his experience. All good things.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377225",
"author": "Casey O'Donnell",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T19:33:31",
"content": "@mjrippe do you live underwater?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377228",
"author": "wulfman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T19:40:14",
"content": "mjrippe is correct",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377245",
"author": "Chuckt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T20:16:26",
"content": "Cool project.Can we have an MSP430 category as well?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377258",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T20:43:42",
"content": "@Chuckt –http://hackaday.com/tag/msp430/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377354",
"author": "gmcurrie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T23:58:28",
"content": "Thx for HT & link to great blog = smart stuff presented really well – spent about an hour tonight browsing some of the the enjoyables there.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377361",
"author": "gmcurrie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T00:07:18",
"content": "HT? – meant ‘heads up’..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377418",
"author": "RIUM+",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T02:58:32",
"content": "Not to knock the creator, but isn’t this a battery life that’s basically the same as any old digital watch? I get 2-3 years per battery on mine.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377422",
"author": "vtl",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T03:17:15",
"content": "They got 20pin DIP, 8kb msp430g2452 now so you’re not strangled on IO and flash. Just make sure you upgrade the firmware on your launchpad cos on many boards it was unusable until you did.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377496",
"author": "mujo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T06:56:24",
"content": "I think it could be better, if he used something from MSP430x4xxx series – because that series have integrated LCD driver.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377540",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T09:17:50",
"content": "If a solar cell and good capacitors were employed that thing would run forever!It would never use all the power collected during a bright day, so there would be plenty extra to get through, say, a stormy week.It’s interesting.Good stuff.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377547",
"author": "intelligentGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T09:39:35",
"content": "What if the guy used standart LCD displays? Too much wiring and huge DIP package driver IC is killing me : /Isn’t there any readymade LCD displays that doesn’t consume too much power like this?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377549",
"author": "cmholm",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T09:43:33",
"content": "Mr. Finnegan did a bit more than (re)invent a digital watch. He didn’t use some minute 4-bit processor, he used a MSP430-series chip, a cpu that you can use to do serious work. What he’s demonstrating is that no matter how much crap you’re hanging off that controller, you can still whittle down the power draw when you want to.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377552",
"author": "Anders",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T10:19:53",
"content": "It would be interesting to see how low power he could get using a really low power mcu with built in lcd-controller, like the efm32 or stm32l. A real time clock application with lcd display on the efm32 is around 2-3uA current consumption. But then you can’t use cool and old-school parts like a shift-register.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377677",
"author": "darkirby",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T16:34:07",
"content": "@intelligentGuyYou should look into an e-paper display",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378004",
"author": "cypherf0x",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T03:33:06",
"content": "The EFM32 on the starter kit will run an LCD and RTC at 4uA.The guy did a good job with the board using those components though. The MSP430 is power hungry compared to some of the new chips.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378257",
"author": "MagicWuff",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T14:49:52",
"content": "Over a decade on AAs? you would have to worry about them expiring or leaking before they die of use!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378458",
"author": "DeWired",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T20:15:22",
"content": "There was study on using tritium keychain as power source – with a lens and solar battery, this conctruction as far as i remember, give something about aforementioned 12-20μA. How cool can it be – nuclear-powered clock? =)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "386941",
"author": "j8g8j",
"timestamp": "2011-04-27T17:07:27",
"content": "Wow! While reviewing the specs on the MSP430 it is obvious ultra-low power compared to the ATMEGA in my Arduino board. But, I never did the math to figure out just how low. In addition to solar and nuclear power, I suggest kinetically powered. Give it a shake every year or so. One more way to save power would be to have the display circuit off until someone presses a “time query” button. Great little video of an ultra-low power design.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "496943",
"author": "oborg",
"timestamp": "2011-11-01T21:24:14",
"content": "Some alternative energy sources for the EFM32 Gecko mcus here (40 sec video):Youtube: Electro-magnetic and thermal energy sources for EFM32 Cortex-M3 Starter Kits",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1004583",
"author": "Alex Nelson",
"timestamp": "2013-05-16T23:37:31",
"content": "You think that’s impressive? My clock can run for a full 12 seconds on that battery! (takes 3.7 Amps. Lots of Leds)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.246365
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/09/bolt-action-pneumatic-spud-gun/
|
Bolt Action Pneumatic Spud Gun
|
Jesse Congdon
|
[
"Misc Hacks",
"Weapons Hacks"
] |
[] |
No one should ever make a potato cannon. They are wildly unsafe, powerful, and can easily shatter your neighbor’s gaudy bay window, you know the neighbor with the mean dog.
That said, [Jeremy Cook] made a minature bolt action
spud gun
! Using a custom machined Delrin bolt, a fitted Delrin reducer, and some PVC, the spud gun is capable of quickly loading custom shaved potatoes with the greatest of ease. Pushing the bolt (literally a bolt) forward forces the spud through the reduction coupling and into the barrel. Lock the bolt to the side, pull the trigger (an air blower) and two expansion chambers toss compressed air behind your starchy projectile. The design is reminiscent of a common bolt action rifle, but all that Delrin reminds us of paintball markers.
[Jeremy] is writing up the project in multiple posts, so check his blog for info. We are also no strangers to the
strange
,
dangerous
and
wonderful
world of potato launching tech.
Stick around for a video of the launcher in action!
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhzAVojelCU&feature=player_embedded&w=470]
| 44
| 42
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377047",
"author": "Mirlotus",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T15:48:30",
"content": "nice! :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377049",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T15:54:08",
"content": "that’s adorable. I’d love to see one where you could put in an entire potato and as you cycled the bolt it would drop down and slice properly-sized chunks out of it and load them into the barrel.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377077",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T16:56:14",
"content": "If I was going to recommend a spud gun project I would have to recommend combustion types. But 3 of them exploded during development its seriously unsafe and it would be dumb to do. That being said… When the fourth revision fired it looked like a howitzer. About a 6 foot streak of flame came out the business end. We /never/ found one single projectile fired from it. It was shot in a 3/4 mile field with another mile or so of field behind it. We discontinued firing it due to concern we were damaging property . This was the second most dangerous thing ive ever made.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377083",
"author": "Greg",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T17:06:45",
"content": "Weak. Combustion with simple hairspray has much more kick than that. And not to mention Ive never had one of the 6 I’ve made explode on me. Polish your design enough and get the right air/combustion ratio and your set. Awesome bolt design, but the product shows little to no kick=weak",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6657061",
"author": "Sian",
"timestamp": "2023-06-29T18:27:10",
"content": "Yeah, the only ones that explode are ones that are made improperly. Potato cannons a pretty safe unless you mess something up in the manufacturing process.",
"parent_id": "377083",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "377085",
"author": "bobbus77",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T17:08:19",
"content": "This model looks well suited to carrots. Anyone ever tried making a carrot gun?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377086",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T17:08:48",
"content": "if you afraid of shrapnel wrap you gun in thick cloth do it loosely so air have some space to escape",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377102",
"author": "silvesterstillalone",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T17:30:01",
"content": "@addidis. I hate to burst your fiery bubble, but I will. Not to say I don’t believe you; over a mile flights are hilarious fun.Compressed air based cannons are inherently safer, more reliable, and have been shown to be more powerful (in anecdotal evidence anyway). That is a talking point in itself with stipulations like using ‘normal’ aerosol fuels or starter fluid instead of, say, propane..nevermind the vast array of valves, the best of witch is a custom made piston exhaust valve by the way.Anyway if you are getting exterior burn then you are either using too much propellant or have too short of a barrel. It’s always the latter :). It is simply a waste to have overburn since it is not contributing to propulsion.Furthermore if you wanna go big and long (pun intended) without using explosives look into, and please don’t; it is crazy foolish, hybrid cannons. These are devices measure out a combustible gas in just the right amount to achieve best combustion using a couple ball valves and a second chamber calculated to the appropriate size. I forget what grill propane is, somewhere around 1:24 but it varies with additives and such. Oh but they are hybrids remember? You double, triple etc.. the amount of gas and then add compressed air in increments of ambient pressure. So lets say you have 1:12 (8%) of propane, then you fill to 29 PSI absolute. It’s rather shocking the power increase.Oh and since you are releasing compressed air and combusting at the same time it is best to use burst discs. Sides of @ liter bottles work well since they are rated at a minimum of 150psi. Usually we..er the people that do these things double or triple them up.Now no compressed air cannon can launch a projectile faster than the speed of sound since the speed of sound at temperature is the speed of compression, which is also the speed of decompression. Mathematically laid out it’s the ‘c’ of spudguns. As far as these things go hybrids are the only ones capable in practice of breaking the sound barrier.Note: I know these things in my pursuit to find out if a paintball can survive past the speed of sound. Answer: maybe. Don’t do any of this stuff, it is a really bad idea and illegal in many places.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377123",
"author": "JeremyC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T17:48:28",
"content": "@Jesse Congdon – Thanks for the write-up! Like the way you put the two pics together.@macw & mirlotus, glad you guys liked it! I’ve thought about ways to have some sort of “clip” for the cut potato, but havent’ gotten a good solution yet. A full size one that cuts whole potatoes would be pretty incredible…@addidis – As cool as they are, combustion guns really scare me. Not sure I want to know what the #1 most dangerous thing is.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377220",
"author": "Wolf",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T19:26:00",
"content": "It’s a common misconception that combustion guns are less safe than pneumatics. In my experience, the opposite is true.As long as long as you’re not adding oxygen the chamber pressure doesn’t get much higher than 60 psi. Unless there’re huge cracks on the inside of the combustion chamber, there’s just no way it’s going to burst.Plus you don’t get that ear-ringing boom with pnumatics ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377227",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T19:40:12",
"content": "“No one should ever make a *PVC* potato cannon.”Fixed it.Air and PVC don’t mix.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377233",
"author": "qwerty",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T20:00:12",
"content": "The mere thought that what is thrown away as a bullet here for fun is craved as food in some countries deeply offends me, both as a human being and a tech.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "377597",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T13:21:37",
"content": "So you have never thrown away a scrap of food? How about the veggies you didn’t like as a kid that got thrown out? At least they aren’t playing with c4.",
"parent_id": "377233",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "377253",
"author": "madwelder",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T20:35:22",
"content": "There is PVC made for air service but it’s not common and I don’t know that it would handle shock loads like this.It’s dangerous and I’m pretty sure that potato guns are prohibited weapons where I live but having said that, when do we get to see a potato Gatling gun?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377260",
"author": "Alex",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T20:47:18",
"content": "Me too qwerty. As a lover of fries and a descendant of potato famine survivors, this machine is offensive to me and should be removed from this site immediately. The people who made this machine should be imprisoned.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377264",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T20:54:01",
"content": "@qwertyinstead of bitching give yours proposition on projectile ? it must be heavy, lubricated and airtight. People didn’t randomly chose to waits",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377276",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T21:21:50",
"content": "“No one should ever make a potato cannon. They are wildly unsafe, powerful,”and illegal in many US states, like Florida.“Owning or using spud guns in Florida is illegal pursuant to Florida Statute 790.161 Making, possessing, throwing, projecting, placing, or discharging any destructive device or attempt so to do, felony”I grew up building spud guns, so I obviously hate this.It’s a great build, just check your local laws before you go recreating it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377277",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T21:23:14",
"content": "I wonder how fibreglass wrapped copper pipe would perform under hydro test…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377299",
"author": "madwelder",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T22:14:02",
"content": "I feel a stroll down amnesia lane coming on!In the village where I grew up there was a man with a ham radio and he would use a potato gun to launch wires over trees to make giant antennas.He was also friends with the owner of the boat I cooked on and once they stayed up all night to drink and launch potatoes out into the inlet. We headed out the next morning and after we were under way I found out they had used up all the potatoes!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377338",
"author": "zerocool42",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T23:16:48",
"content": "@therian – Who said anything had to be fired. Not to mention, I’m sure it is possible, albeit perhaps not economical to craft another suitable, non-food based projectile (after all, the alternative is that it’s IMPOSSIBLE to create a synthetic, no-edible potato!)However, that said @qwerty, those potatos, weren’t ripped out of the hands of starving people. They were probably bought at a supermarket, where, if they hadn’t been bought, they would have been thrown away. So arguably, the real issue is with the supermarkets. Furthermore, a donation to an appropriate charity would be more beneficial, and while the maker doesn’t say they did such a thing (and I think it is highly unlikely that they did), doesn’t mean that they didn’t. You can’t criticise unless you know!@Alex – I sincerely hope you are joking, or at least exaggerating. Suffice to say, there are worse things happening in the world today. If you were not however, then see what I wrote about supermarkets in the previous paragraph!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377347",
"author": "JeremyC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T23:51:30",
"content": "@All, I will turn myself in to the local prison immediately for wasting potatoes and constructing what is essentially the same thing as a nerf gun.@Bill – I’m originally from Florida, and if you are too, you may remember how Governor Lawton Chiles fired a potato cannon on his inauguration:http://articles.orlandosentinel.com/1995-08-14/news/9508130255_1_potato-launcher-spud-gun-potato-gunsHe was never charged with any crime.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377350",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T23:54:13",
"content": "@JeremyCI forget the name , but the most dangerous was the grey stuff on sparklers. It ignited as it was being made and burnt down my friends kitchen (this was all during 6-8th grade.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377352",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T23:56:10",
"content": "@JeremyCThat was in 1995. Law wasn’t on the books till a few years ago. Of course he was never charged.Born in raised in Florida, still here today.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377359",
"author": "allen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T00:06:15",
"content": "if you are in an area that spud guns are illegal…how about a traction trebuchet?http://members.iinet.net.au/~rmine/Greycos/trebfil5.htmlI’m building one like this with modern materials using a front fork from a bicycle as the yoke and pulleys to get the rope-pullers back near the sling holder.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377367",
"author": "nicco",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T00:20:14",
"content": "@JeremyC: Great build, kudos, and all that. One concern… please tell me that you aren’t using the bolt handle for retaining the projectile in forward battery. That is a bad idea. I know, it isn’t a “real” gun with a “real” bolt action, but there is a very real reason for using a locking lug on the bolt as a retention system. Your design, at the low pressures it works at, will probably not fail, but if it does, look at where your chamber is in relation to your body parts.@qwerty: How do you think we’re supposed to get the food bullets to the hungry? This is a food delivery device.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377385",
"author": "graymalkin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T01:02:58",
"content": "@addidis Did you consider that the spud may have just disintegrated? This is an issue often in pumpkin chunking too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377397",
"author": "hammy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T01:30:16",
"content": "If you are concerned about the possibility of a PVC pressure-tank rupture, there’s an easy fix – make a forward-facing safety valve. *Approximate* yield strength for PVC is around 51.71Mpa (7500 PSI for yanks), so if you are using 2inch di piping for the pressure assembly (and assuming a FOS of around 2, you can have smaller if you’re feeling lucky), you will want a pressure valve set for roughly 288-300 PSI. gettting thicker-walled PVC pipe can kick this up to about 500 PSI. You can your tank smaller also to increase pressure carried if you do some thermofluid calcs to get an ideal tank/pressure combination – it really depends on your barrel length – more length means more gas at pressure required!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377402",
"author": "hammy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T01:40:43",
"content": "safety valve on the front of the tank, I mean. It is likely that how you connect it will actually be the cause of failure (the join or thread or whatever) rather than the valve itself so be careful!Making a point of failure on something that dousnt cause dammage (like on flexi-piping can often be a good thing to prevent big damage – similar to using shear-bolts or keyways when making pulley/gear systems.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377424",
"author": "Alex",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T03:32:15",
"content": "PVC is not a good idea for air use.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377427",
"author": "JeremyC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T03:36:27",
"content": "@nicco – Thanks for the kudos.Yeah, the setup wouldn’t be all that great or safe for an actual explosion (and I’m not vouching for it’s safety currently. However, in this case, the barrel is only .6 inches in diameter, giving a cross sectional area of .28 square inches. I’ve yet to charge it past 80 PSI, giving a maximum force of around 23 lbs.@Bill – I did not know a law was passed in Florida about spud guns in ’95. That Chiles guy was pretty crazy though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377477",
"author": "JTaylor",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T05:58:53",
"content": "Most of the failures I have experienced were poor glue jobs or cheapo threads on caps(old hairspray type). I knew a (stupid)guy who used OxyAcetylene and damn near blew is arm off.Most failures are overpressure. Next up is stress fracturing.The heavy fabric thing works …up to a point. The better soultion(albeit, more expensive) is stronger materials in construction.To those complaining about the waste of food…go bitch at McD’s or other fast food joints that toss out tons of food. Really. IF you are that offended…go out and DO something about the situation rather than complain about how “evil” this is. Here’s a thought…find a way to improve it to your liking and share with the rest of us.Very nice build.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377534",
"author": "lurker",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T08:50:27",
"content": "Props to JTAylor for offering some thoughtful inshight……It’s called a potato cannon for one reason – The ideal projectile, for shits and giggles, has traditionally been the potato. Up until about 4 years ago (anyone else notice this one?), potatoes, in america, have been rediculously cheap as a food source and of superior quality… I eat a lot of potatoes, perhaps it’s the irish blood – so they’ve always been on hand – With proper barrel filing, a potato can be slapped on, rammed, and ready to fire in seconds… And a solid hit is just, for lack of a better word, spectacular……Projectiles? USE YOUR IMAGINATION!!! A wad of leaves as wadding, and use anything for topping. Two in particular come to mind – Take a couple packs of firecrackers, fold them over themselves, and tape to fit the bore – Insert fuse-down, and you’ve got a kickasstacular airburst. Second, a wad of leaves topped with a fistful of steaknives made an absolutely terrifying, yet incredibly awesome spectacle.As for legality, if you live in the US, potato cannons are NFA (non-firearms) as per federal regulations. They are not guns, they are not destructive devices, they are not banned or “special” on any federal level. UNLESS your state has some caveat, you’re free to build whatever the hell you want. Do your research – The ATF has stated such several times in open and closed letters – As long as it’s muzzle-loading and you use a flint/piezo igniter, you’re more than likely fine.…Also, DON’T build anything that doesn’t have a “cleanout” style endcap – this is your last line of protection. Most pneumatic designs use normal caps, and if your system jams you’re screwed – The threaded endcap is the weakest point in the system and has saved my ass several times – Ever see a potato fly 200 yards and a cap fly 500? I have – and if I’d used a non-threaded system I can guarantee you I’d have the scars to prove it…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377545",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T09:29:26",
"content": "I can understand wanting to reduce food waste, but crying about being “deeply offended” on a hacking site isn’t really the way to get anything done about it if it moves you that deeply.Ultimately someone is always going to utilize some kind of something as a material to hack with that somebody else somewhere doesn’t have enough of.By that same logic, one could be equally offended over a water gun hack if one lived in an area with little drinkable water.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377606",
"author": "localroger",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T13:46:22",
"content": "The reason PVC is not recommended for air isn’t that it can’t hold the pressure, it’s that if it does fail it tends to shatter into very sharp shards which can pierce flesh. And even if you stick to reasonable pressure limits, it can fail due to impacts, hidden fractures, and so on.Two safer alternatives I’d consider are (1) a used propane bottle (there are Web tutorials on converting them for use with pneumatic Holloween props) and (2) an empty canister water filter enclosure (because it’s thicker and the plastic won’t shatter if it fails).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377622",
"author": "mic",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T14:32:36",
"content": "Wrapping pressurized parts in duct tape would reduce chances of shattering in a explosive fashion. But seriously everybody here owns a denim jacket and some safety goggles, right?Anyone talking about food waste? Millions of tonnes of potatoes and grain are left to rot because of quotas and market changes every year. It may feed a city for a year but if people can’t make money off it becomes garbage to industry. Problem, qwerty?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378011",
"author": "Masta Squidge",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T03:51:47",
"content": "“I wonder how fibreglass wrapped copper pipe would perform under hydro test…”Probably fairly well. It wouldn’t be anything EXTREMELY high, however I own a 5000 PSI fiberglass wrapped aluminum air tank from a number of years ago. Its a VERY large tank, something like 113ci. Most people buy them for scenario games and pack mount them.But not me. No. I ran that thing in a massive drop forward and dealt with it like a man.But seriously. This thing needs an HPA source and regulator. This sort of thing is right out of the basics of airsmithing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378224",
"author": "willow",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T13:44:35",
"content": "*** For anyone who thinks tape wrapped around a chamber will lessen shrapnel:You’re a complete bafoon. I mean this constructively.A 2 or 3″ PVC piece at 100PSI will not likely fail. Failures are typically the result of the builder/user not properly factoring safety and/or failure to prevent the pressure from going over rated limits (see my comments below). So think more like 200psi, or 150+ on a 4″ piece.Figure a 2″ pipe 12″ long, and you’ve got almost 76″ of surface area with 200psi of hell behind it. That’s per-square-inch, or more appropriately, about 15,200 pounds of total potential overall.Go ahead and chance yourself with some duct-tape on that and let me know how it goes.I’ve witnessed failures first-hand because people over-pressurized chambers against everyone’s warnings. Like thieves and electricity, the pressure will flow through the least resistance and burst through a wall in a single spot.In a millisecond a few dozen (if you’re lucky) to a few hundred pieces of shrapnel will erupt from the thundering force, tearing through flesh, tendon and bone.Tape will help for about a split second, but the burst of air forcing laterally will rip the pieces from the tape. Sure, it might prevent a few pieces, but rest assured the force will be more direct rather than dispersed.*** For all the haters:When properly built, PVC is fine for air use. You have to make sure safety is your primary concern and follow important rules which are out there in the pneumatic/combustion community. I posted some general safety-violations below, which I found in this build.Been doing this for years, and the only failures I’ve ever come across from people are when they violate safety rules and don’t understand the scope of what they’re doing.Also, I keep track of my builds and know that age is a factor as well. You don’t want to keep using the same chamber over and over for years.*** For the builder and anyone prospecting:Kudos on the delrin bolt, nicely done and simple. The glue job looks proper and well done also.The pressure chambers (primary/secondary in this case) have a lower operating pressure rating than the barrel/action, which is important, so good job there also. This has to do with burst-stress/firing-stress, explained below. You never want a barrel/action which has the same or lesser rating.Also, the pressure rating stamped on the pipe isn’t your only factor involved. Those are nominal figures based on water at a specific temperature. Don’t forget that shock/stress has to be factored in, as well as temperature. I post a link below to some basic temperature de-rating calculations to help you along.*** However:Safety Violation: No PSI blowoff except for the tubing connecting the two chambers, from what I can tell. Burst-tubing is a good backup for overpressurization, but shouldn’t be your only safety net. Also that looks like 1/8″ tubing, which has a very high burst rating regardless of the material.Safety Violation: No pressure gauge. Sure, you can rely on the regulator for your primary fill source but that’s never an excuse to not know the pressure inside your chambers.Safety Violation: Threads tapped into single wall PVC (the sides of the chambers and on the endcaps), which increases the likelyhood of stress fractures on your primary wall of pressure.Threads should be tapped into double-walls instead, IE a sleeve glued over top of the chamber, or similar, so the threads are on the outer wall and a pinhole is merely drilled into the inner-wall (pressure-wall), lessening the likelyhood and severity of stress fractures. Stress fractures are the primary reason of pneumatic-PVC failures.Safety Violation: Threaded endcaps = surprise projectile somewhere down the road. Threaded connections are more likely to fail than their glued counterparts. This could result in a surprise projectile at some point. You shouldn’t be using threaded connections on pressure chambers.Additional notes: I’m guessing the primary chamber is 3″, which has the lowest operating pressure rating of all the piping. As such it should be what you base your highest operating pressure on. Most 3″ PVC has about the same rating, which is 150-160PSI.For safety reasons always take the lowest, so say 150. Now you also have to calculate your temperature derating figure. Go ahead and figure a factor of .62 based on 110F*, which leaves you with an operating pressure of 93PSI. That’s where you’d set your burst valve, if you’d like.For an additional safety net, some folks set their operating pressure to 75% of the calculated figure, which would be about 70psi in this case. WAY more than enough to have fun with the gun in this build.Here is a link to some basic derating factors:http://docs.google.com/gview?url=http://www.sovaspecops.com/forum/usrpics/3_8dcb84e01974857044dc5eb19e397986&chrome=trueYou always want your barrel to be stronger than the other points in the system, because of stress. Granted the projectile is easily moved down the barrel, so initial shock isn’t so much an issue, but for long-term use and the occasion object which might get stuck in the barrel, it’s better to ensure safety than to have shrapnel in your face.Keep the builds coming and keep them safe. Love seeing these things.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378225",
"author": "willow",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T13:45:49",
"content": "Also, one last thing: Denim will not help you against the shrapnel unless you have a few layers. And most people don’t wear denim over their necks and faces and arms–the most commonly hit spots on the body in accidents related to these designs.Put your noggin to work a little bit more next time Mic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378310",
"author": "spacecowboy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T16:02:35",
"content": "Nice workmanship. I never considered trying a machined Delrin bolt. As far as I know, many states define a destructive device as anything that uses combustion. Therefore you’re probably fine if you stick with the pneumatic guns–at least you are in Texas as the penal code expressly links destructive devices with combustion.Additionally, the speed of sound in air is not an absolute limit on the maximum velocity of a projectile of a pneumatic cannon–it’s not like C. As long as the projectile remains in the barrel, the expanding gas can continue to do work on it.The difference between potential and kinetic energy is expressed by the pressure difference. As long as the pressure difference exists, work can occur on the projectile. If work can occur, good times happen. Now if only this can scale to a 2″ projectile.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378344",
"author": "marshmellowman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T17:13:16",
"content": "I’ve used 1/2 PVC for miniature marshmallow launching using your lungs…. it works surprisingly well, but compressed air would be better, combustion may be tastier, but being hit with a flaming wad of melting sugar may not be that fun. Auto feeds with marshmallow may tend to jam. I wonder what a high velocity marshmallow would do.BTW, the first time I met my wife she came at me wielding a potato pellet gun… it was love at first sight…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379776",
"author": "mic",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T23:50:15",
"content": "It is not a grenade idiot. Thanks for the sermon, willow.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "381103",
"author": "mginder",
"timestamp": "2011-04-16T00:16:28",
"content": "replace that hose connecting your air supply to the barrel with pipe and fittings matching the size of the air tank. the rise in air throughput will multiply exponentially as diameter increases. the results will be much better than a skinny hose",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "617354",
"author": "Matz05",
"timestamp": "2012-04-01T02:21:44",
"content": "I will call you “French Fry Rifle”! Muahahahaa!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2450041",
"author": "Thefrogman123",
"timestamp": "2015-02-23T03:23:54",
"content": "Willow, thanks for the info. Will use on nxt build. For alternative projectiles, a bamboo skewer with cotton ball glued and wrapped partway with dental floss makes a pretty terrifying dart.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.127723
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/09/according-to-pete-new-online-video-series/
|
According To Pete – New Online Video Series
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"News"
] |
[
"engineer",
"sparkfun",
"vblog",
"video"
] |
This is [Pete Dokter], the fourth employee that Sparkfun ever had and currently Director of Engineering there. As you can see, they’re not letting [Peter] come out of his hole. Instead of designing new breakout boards they’ve given him a camera that he’ll be using to record his occasional pontifications.
‘According to Pete’ will become a regularly occuring online show
where he answers questions from around the Internets. We’ll admit that the first episode, embedded after the break, is a bit content thin – serving only as an introduction. But we think [Pete] has a pleasant manner and we look forward to what blossoms out of this modest beginning.
We’ve long been fans of engineering-oriented online shows such as [Dave Jones’]
EEVBlog
, [Bill Hammack’s]
The Engineer Guy
, A collaboration between [Chris Gammell, Dave Jones, and Jeff Keyzer] call
The Amp Hour
, [Jeri Ellsworth’s]
A-Z Videos
and her upcoming series, [Ben Heck’s]
The Ben Heck Show
…. and we could go on.
With offerings like these you don’t need to wait for traditional TV to transition to IP delivery. Just stop watching crap and start watching these interesting shows.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsQvoIsc9Qk&w=470]
[Thanks Luke]
| 3
| 3
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377054",
"author": "wosser",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T16:02:09",
"content": "Once a month? Seriously? This show had better be 4 hours long each time then.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377255",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T20:39:01",
"content": "I don’t know why, but I’m not really excited about it in any way shape or form.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377546",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T09:36:19",
"content": "They lost me when they panned the big speaker out of the frame. ;)I enjoy the EEV Blog quite a bit, so I’ll give this one a go.See ya next time, Pete!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.037684
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/09/kequencer-2-0-is-cheaper-and-easier-to-build-still-awesome/
|
Kequencer 2.0 Is Cheaper And Easier To Build — Still Awesome
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"digital audio hacks"
] |
[
"kequencer",
"protoboard",
"sequencer"
] |
[Rich Decibels] decibels received so much interest in his original sequencer build that he decided to make
another one that was a bit easier and less expensive to replicate
. The original design, called
the Kequencer
, featured a nicely finished look for the user interface. For the Keyquencer 2.0 he decided that adding a lid to the enclosure meant not spending quite as much for controls (nice looking knobs tend to increase the cost of potentiometers).
A rectangle of protoboard serves as the panel face for the device. It looks like he painted it black on top so that it doesn’t distract from the neatly organized parts layout. He used point-to-point wiring to make most of the hookups, but he did create a board layout which will help to guide you when the number of wires starts to get out of hand. This was made after the fact and he regrets not having it for the initial build. Check out the demonstration video embedded after the break to hear how the second iteration sounds.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oc30K-Eg4A&w=470]
| 5
| 5
|
[
{
"comment_id": "377014",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T13:22:17",
"content": "LOUD NOISES!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377023",
"author": "Matthias_H",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T13:56:01",
"content": "I’m missing the sequencing functions, how about you guys? The dip switches, and then what?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377039",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T14:58:03",
"content": "Judging by the schematic, the dip switches enable/disable each of the 8 astable oscillators which are fired in sequence. You can always press the “keys” to play the note whenever and for however long you’d like. You can adjust the frequency of each note, so that’s kind of your sequencing there (coupled with the sequential firing of each note). An audio amp mixes and amplifies everything.I really like the sound for something so simple. Also painting the protoboard black is a very good idea to polish off the look, and easy to do.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377079",
"author": "HWS",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T16:58:37",
"content": "Is it kequencer or keyquencer?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377368",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T00:23:29",
"content": "I want one of these on my keychain. The second video of him jammin out is pretty good, it played after the first one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.174496
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/08/compost-heap-temperature-logger-helps-keep-things-hot/
|
Compost Heap Temperature Logger Helps Keep Things Hot
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"chemistry hacks",
"home hacks"
] |
[
"atmega",
"compost",
"temp logger"
] |
HackHut user [lackawanna] is
looking to start his own compost pile
, but as many urban composters discover, things can get quite smelly if you don’t manage it properly. The process of composting is broken up into two phases, aerobic and anaerobic decomposition. The former is the first stage to occur and produces plenty of heat, but should be scentless. The latter gives off less heat and is more of a stink due to putrefaction. Carefully monitoring the temperature of the pile and restarting the aerobic phase when necessary helps to keep the process “healthy” and scent-free.
[lackawanna] built a simple temperature monitor that he plans on using to track the status of his compost pile once he gets started. It uses an ATmega328 as the brains of the operation and an old metal can transistor as his temperature sensor. Using relative measurements of the compost pile taken in 10 minute intervals, he can determine when the aerobic phase is underway, as well as when things begin turning anaerobic. At that point, the sensor alerts him that the pile needs to be turned.
The build is pretty simple, but leaves plenty of room for expansion. It should be relatively easy to add a more friendly notification interface as well as install multiple sensors to the pile for obtaining aggregate temperature data.
| 12
| 12
|
[
{
"comment_id": "376548",
"author": "AeroNotix",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T21:55:35",
"content": "A whole 328?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376551",
"author": "MRC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T22:01:33",
"content": "good to see some dead-bug construction going on. not everyone has boards etched for every project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376570",
"author": "Keith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T22:27:05",
"content": "Ham radio operator by chance?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376578",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T22:49:05",
"content": "Thats not how you prototype board :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376600",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T23:39:20",
"content": "Hey if you want to be completly lazy make this wireless, build a motorized one of these …http://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Tumbling-Composterand you never have to touch it until its lovely dark dirt.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376613",
"author": "Andrew Parting",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T00:18:40",
"content": "nice construction. Fun fact compost heaps can get hot enough to explode!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376667",
"author": "Drone",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T03:09:01",
"content": "Dead-bug, this belongs on the compost heap!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376776",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T04:42:32",
"content": "+1 MRC. I’m with you on that :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377063",
"author": "Josh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T16:24:31",
"content": "Deadbug FTW!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377244",
"author": "DeadlyDad",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T20:15:19",
"content": "@Hirudinea: +1!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377688",
"author": "Tod",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T17:01:50",
"content": "@Hirudinea & DeadlyDad: I had the same or similar thought but more on the line of making it automatic. Compost core gets above the optimum temp and it automatically detects it and turns on the tumbler.Hmmm… now, if only there were some common device that could monitor this, and turn on a tumbler accordingly, and alert you it had been done…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377689",
"author": "Tod",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T17:02:55",
"content": "Oh, dead bugs don’t help compost much. Live ones do. ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.358478
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/08/pcb-parts-salvaging-made-easy/
|
PCB Parts Salvaging Made Easy
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Parts"
] |
[
"pcb",
"recycling",
"salvage"
] |
Take a moment to think about how many old or damaged computer motherboards you have tossed away over the years. Sure we try to repurpose everything we can, but reclaiming electronic components from complex devices can be overly time consuming if you don’t have the proper means of doing so.
Ideally, if we were to try removing components from a motherboard, an old stove or an unused toaster oven would be great. If you didn’t have either item at your disposal, you could always attack the board with a soldering iron and some braid – but who has the time for that?
[Giorgos Lazaridis] over at PCBHeaven put together a quick video demonstrating
his favorite technique for salvaging components
after a motherboard has outlived its usefulness. Using a 2000W heat gun, a few hand tools, and couple of metal pans, he had the entire board stripped bare in about 30 minutes time. He talks about some of the best parts he has discovered while salvaging and points out a few hard-to-find items that can be easily obtained by tearing down a motherboard.
Sure his process might not be as easy as inverting a PCB in an oven, but his method is cheap, portable, and takes up very little space.
Keep reading to see [Giorgos’] video demonstration and don’t forget to check out some of the other cool stuff he has done in the past, such as his
temperature-controlled soldering station
, this
acrylic bender
, or this
bench top function generator
.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8GTW_7GHc0&w=470]
| 29
| 29
|
[
{
"comment_id": "376435",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T19:35:15",
"content": "Quick and dirty but effective. Looks like he keeps the heat to the back of the board. I wonder if there is any possibility of damage to any of the more delicate components as a result of the somewhat more intense heat than you would see vs typical reflow soldering methods?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376460",
"author": "Ian C",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T19:42:16",
"content": "I used to do this when I was young. Now i just buy parts. Lots of bad smells and dangerous gases usedto come off the boards I salvaged, I hope that is less the case with newer rohs stuff. I always did it outdoors.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376475",
"author": "YT2095",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T19:46:18",
"content": "sorry, I DO like to be generous in my posts here, but this is just a re-hash of tricks we ALL did some 20+ years ago (`cept we mostly used a blow lamp instead of a heat gun).it`s Good that it`s still used though, and maybe some of the Newer “hackers” will benefit from this Very Old trick.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376480",
"author": "jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T19:59:43",
"content": "when i do this i always end up burning the boards. the smell of a cooked PCB takes days to go away in my open carport.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376488",
"author": "Juli",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:19:02",
"content": "Old information, yet very interesting video. This could also help you to resolder those laptop motherboard that have GPU’s falling off…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376491",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:19:30",
"content": "Might it work with a hair drier?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376497",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:25:04",
"content": "@MrX,Yes, it can, if you have one that blasts 300C+ :)On the serious side, hair drier is not supopsed to get that hot. You can buy hot air blower at any tool store – mostly used to strip paint.You can also find smaller units in hobby shops – used to soften some materials.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376499",
"author": "Giorgos Lazaridis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:29:34",
"content": "I uploaded this video for 2 reasons. First, to demonstrate this method to a reader from China (i promised him i will). And second, to point the benefits of salvaging parts. Money saving is not the point that i wanted to show. I discover parts and solutions every time i salvage a PCB.And regarding the bad smell, if the temperature is kept stable and the PCB is not burned, then it does not smell that bad. In any case, the whole procedure must be done outdoors. I did it in front of the door with the door open wide.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376503",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:39:18",
"content": "Back when I was 12 or so stripping down boards in the basement I used to be pretty efficient with just my 35 watt weller iron.I would stick part of the board with no components into a vice on my bench. Put a ball of solder onto the iron. Heat up the pins on the component I wanted out. Then…. whack the PCB with the back of a screwdriver. Solder would go flying and the component would come out with a delicate tug from some needle nose pliers.Worked great but pissed my dad off because I always had solder embedded in my clothes. I still have bins of parts from doing this somewhere in my dad’s basement.I don’t recommend this method unless you do it outside and wear a lab coat.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376505",
"author": "vmspionage",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:41:59",
"content": "You have to be really careful not to overheat the components when using this method… not that long ago I was doing the same thing with a motherboard and one of the electrolytic caps exploded sending molten solder everywhere. A face shield, gloves, and long sleeves are a must.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376506",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:42:36",
"content": "Sorry for the double post… I forgot to mention that having a heat gun would have been great as a kid but when I started out I thought my 35 watt weller was the shit (was using a wood burner before that).:)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376507",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:49:27",
"content": "Another thing to think about is the potential to damage parts and not know they are damaged. Debugging sure gets fun when every single component *could* be broken.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376572",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T22:28:35",
"content": "This is absolutely great for salvaging connectors and the discrete components off PCBs – I do it regularly myself. If you want to experiment with something in particular, there is also good value in hacking off still fully populated bits of PCB you are interested in.For example the motherboard in the video had an AC97 audio chip on it which would take a good amount of research and a fair number of extra components to ever get working again. However it was situated on a well defined portion of PCB grouped together with all the supporting components. Saw that piece of board off before you start depopulating it and with a little tracing to find the power and input signals, you have a reusable high quality audio DAC.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376645",
"author": "will1384",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T02:19:51",
"content": "I have been using an old propane torch and heating the back of the motherboard and then quickly slap the motherboard onto a hard surface, that makes the parts fall out, with a little practice you can heat the motherboard without it catching fire, still stinks, and you should only do this outside and with some protection for your lungs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376761",
"author": "Mr. Name Required",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T04:12:43",
"content": "I’ll second the propane torch technique, been doing it for three decades after hearing about it from an electronics engineer in the 70s. I do it outside as the boards do burn occasionally, as has been said.I heat the boards and slap them over the edge of my box trailer that sits in my yard (empty) and the solder all splats out. Except, I do it with the component side up rather than down. That way the components do not end up with solder blobs on them or their legs, but rather stay in the board where I just wiggle them out. Don’t hit too hard or the board will flex and spring, and the components fly out and go everywhere!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376768",
"author": "Jehu",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T04:27:33",
"content": "Yeah, I used the gas iron heat gun trick cept I over heated a cap once and it vented at my face. Stunk to high heaven and scared the crap out of me. Don’t worry, I’m ok and I’m more careful now (face protection, ventilation, etc).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376796",
"author": "tooth",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T05:27:16",
"content": "i just sat in my bedroom for hours desoldering all my components one by one with a solder pen. i didn’t even think about this. a cloth iron would work to would it not?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376814",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T06:30:29",
"content": "I can just see the banner ads now…“Digikey hates him! Hacker salvages parts from old computers a little bit every day using this one weird old tip discovered by a [your local metropolitan center here] mom! Click here!”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376819",
"author": "privacy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T07:05:01",
"content": "lol, he heats the board without removeing the battery…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376832",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T07:46:27",
"content": "i just break the board around the components, because: no heat, cutting takes forever and exposes you to dust made of ??? i tried desoldering some usb ports.. not happening.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376966",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T11:12:05",
"content": "I have to buy myself a heat gun and use this method then. I’ve been soldering stuff one-by-one using a flat-tip soldering iron and vacuum pump. It is fairly quick for discrete and DIP components but near impossible for SMD.I have a couple of SMD brushless motor controllers which I have in few dvd/cdrom boards which I want to salvage. Looking forward to acquire my new heat gun.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377095",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T17:16:45",
"content": "barbarians ! why you just dont kick the crap out of the PCB until components fall off, since this method will cause just as much if not more damage. Chinese sell excellent desoldering station clones with temp control for 100$",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377315",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T22:57:12",
"content": "i should make a video of my methodtake 1 boardapply propane+energy to back of board(opposite of usable components)cook until nice and blacksmack back of board with somthing other than your hand(its HOT, a hand WILL work but it isnt recomended)entire board desoldered in 5 min",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377316",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T22:59:35",
"content": "alsosmall value electrolitic caps are fun to overheat, they make a nice satisfying POPpast like….. 1000 uf? they pre-cut the tops so they vent at lower pressurealso make sure to remove any delicate/valuable components(see: large transistors) by hand(a dremel works wonders) before applying a torch to the board",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377406",
"author": "GeneralSpecific",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T02:06:33",
"content": "I just use a MAPP gas blowtorch… a little overkill, but it’s _very_ quick.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377566",
"author": "polossatik",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T11:21:05",
"content": "A Gas Welder is also very very very quick.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "382516",
"author": "pmac",
"timestamp": "2011-04-19T01:10:51",
"content": "You can also use the heat gun for starting a charcoal barbeque.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "683311",
"author": "User",
"timestamp": "2012-06-18T07:22:15",
"content": "Thanks for this video. The heat gun may be so better than the weller iron in this case, using the correct technic as showed in the video.Thanks!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "911020",
"author": "Matti Matikainen",
"timestamp": "2012-12-29T20:28:33",
"content": "your english is awesome. it gave me strength to watch till the end!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.306308
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/08/light-sensing-circuit-for-power-saving-applications/
|
Light-sensing Circuit For Power Saving Applications
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Misc Hacks",
"Security Hacks"
] |
[
"555 timer",
"light sensing",
"schmitt trigger"
] |
Instructables user [MacDynamo] was thinking about home security systems and wondered how much electricity is being wasted while such systems are powered on, but not activated. He pondered it awhile,
then designed a circuit
that could be used to turn a security system on or off depending on the time of day, but without using any sort of clock.
His system relies on a 555 timer configured as a Schmitt trigger, with a photoresistor wired to the reset pin. When the ambient light levels drop far enough, the resistance on the reset pin increases, and the 555 timer breaks out of its reset loop. This causes the circuit to power on whatever is connected to it. When the sun rises, the resistance on the reset pin drops and the 555 timer continually resets until it gets dark again. He notes that this behavior can be easily reversed if you were to put the photoresistor on the trigger pin rather than the reset pin.
We like the idea, though we are a bit wary about using this for any sort of real security system. An errant insect or debris could cause the system to be turned on, and we’d feel pretty foolish if someone disabled our alarm with a flashlight. That said, this sort of circuit still has plenty of practical, power-saving applications outside the realm of home security.
| 6
| 6
|
[
{
"comment_id": "376402",
"author": "Barefoot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T18:57:52",
"content": "Great idea! I can see this being used to automatically turn on those giga-watt Christmas displays once the sun goes down.——–Note to HaD writers:weary = physically or mentally fatiguedwary = on guard; watchfulor perhaps you meant leery = suspicious or distrustful; wary",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376423",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T19:23:41",
"content": "Ok, i don’t get this. What is that schematic? Why is there an op amp with one floating input?And why is it drawn so badly? And everything is so poorly and too complicated done. I mean it is like using your left hand to scratch your right ear after going around your head a few times…And as it’s been noted by HAD, the idea itself is very very unsuitable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376527",
"author": "Kaj",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T21:12:42",
"content": "I’ll agree that the circuit implementation is pretty odd… especially using that extra op-amp in the 12V version. Doesn’t seem entirely necessary for that… A while back, I built a vented cat litter box that used a PC fan to draw air through the filter. A 555 timer was used to run the fan (via 2n2222) for 20 minutes, and it was triggered using a phototransistor (break-beam IR arrangement). A potentiometer was added to provide an adjustable trigger point.Can someone here more experienced than I (not hard, admittedly) explain what he needed that op-amp for?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376580",
"author": "Dax",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T22:52:06",
"content": "Knowing that LEDs act as weak photocells, one could use a 555 and a LED and an OR gate to make a light level detector.When you charge up the diode in reverse, it retains a charge that bleeds off at a rate depending on how much light falls on it. Following the output of the 555 and the charge of the LED at the same time lets you detect when both of them are at a logical zero.That is, when the LED recieves enough light that its charge drops to logical zero before the 555 can pulse it again, another circuit can be triggered. When the light level is low, either the LED or the 555 will be at logical one at any given time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376847",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T08:33:23",
"content": "The correct way to do this is using a comparator with hysteresis. no 555, no other things…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1213734",
"author": "Mihai",
"timestamp": "2014-02-21T10:33:49",
"content": "Right to the point! The only correct (and straight) answer among all these nonsense.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.403648
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/08/nxt-machine-sorts-lego-blocks-automatically/
|
NXT Machine Sorts LEGO Blocks Automatically
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Toy Hacks"
] |
[
"conveyor belt",
"lego",
"nxt",
"sort"
] |
Smart people don’t put their toys away, they build machines to do it for them. Case and point:
this NXT project which can sort LEGO pieces
. Just dump a bucket of random blocks in a hopper on one end of the machine. One slice at a time, these plastic pieces will be lifted onto a conveyor system made up of several different belts, which allows for separation of the parts. One block at a time, each piece enters a specially lighted chamber where they are visually identified by the NXT brick. Once it identifies the block, a carousel of plastic containers rotates to place the correct home for the block below the output shoot seen above.
So do we now have a completed LEGO circle of life? Not quite. You can build structures automatically using a
3D LEGO printer
and this sorter will have no problem organizing the parts for that purpose. But we still need a LEGO machine that can tear assembled bricks apart.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lZ9rSZwDzE&w=470]
[via
Tinkernology
]
| 15
| 15
|
[
{
"comment_id": "376292",
"author": "andar_b",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:09:58",
"content": "Nifty projectand it’s spelled chute. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376293",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:11:28",
"content": "Really nice construction, too bad it is so slow! Please replace the microcontroller!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376306",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:14:07",
"content": "Next step: Hashing and indexed storage of each LEGO piece for future automated retrieval.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376312",
"author": "kewlnamehuh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:26:08",
"content": "Do you know if they are using stock firmware, or Lejos?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376323",
"author": "Daniel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:41:58",
"content": "That is a beautiful device.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376326",
"author": "GPPK",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:47:02",
"content": "The point made about making, sorting but not yet destroying has made me think:Way too skynet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376339",
"author": "Reaper",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:12:42",
"content": "And a soft AI to generate new designs for lego creations. Resistance is futile.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376361",
"author": "Nick",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:31:33",
"content": "The part missed in the review above is that it sorts by not only shape, but also by weight. So if you were looking at a 1×6 block from above (dots-up), you could check the weight to tell if it was standard thickness (3x plate thickness) or just a plate.Very cool project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376393",
"author": "Nick",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T18:43:10",
"content": "Very cool. Now to get it going much faster…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376496",
"author": "Kimura",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:24:47",
"content": "Definitely needs to be faster, but it looks like it does it fairly well. Now what’s with the “Error” tub? Is that just for “uncategorizable” bricks, or “stuff that isn’t even Lego”? I can see a Technic square part and a “satellite dish” in there…Also, it’d be cool if someone could make a system that sorts bricks by color, using just the stock NXT parts (wait, the color sensor is only in NXT v2). I’ve been meaning for years to sort my own collection, but only got 25% done…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376756",
"author": "TheKhakinator",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T03:44:19",
"content": "It’s theoretically impossible for something built with Lego to pull Lego pieces apart – the force required would just as likely pull the parts of the machine apart.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376785",
"author": "pRoFlT",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T04:57:41",
"content": "@TheKhakinatortwo words. super glue",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376823",
"author": "Rich Decibels",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T07:23:53",
"content": "@TheKhakinatortwo words. mechanical advantage",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377355",
"author": "Nicco",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T00:00:42",
"content": "“we still need a LEGO machine that can tear assembled bricks apart.”I bet a BlendTec could help out in that department. har har har… meh.Really though, a non-destructive (read: no cutting edges) and low-power chipper-shredder/thresher-type machine would work as a first stage in disassembly. Don’t know about smaller clumps of LEGO though. Child labor?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377369",
"author": "Amos",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T00:24:59",
"content": "Also, the phrase is “case in point”http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-cas1.htmon topic: Is there a wall wart for NXT? If not, this is going to take /lots/ of batteries…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.504353
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/08/midi-drum-interface-helps-you-step-up-your-game/
|
MIDI Drum Interface Helps You Step Up Your Game
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Musical Hacks",
"Xbox Hacks"
] |
[
"drums",
"piezo",
"rock band",
"video games"
] |
[Dan] likes Rock Band, but playing it makes him feel as useful as a one-legged man in
an ass-kicking
a drumming contest. He says that even using his friend’s ION kit leaves him searching out excuses as to why he’s not as good as he should be on the drums.
Eventually, he decided that he would
settle things once and for all
. The final excuse he came up with was that it is too difficult to press the drum pedal rapidly without getting tired, as the Rock Band gear does not properly simulate real drum equipment. Bass pedals on professional kits are weighted and balanced to allow the drummer to exert the least amount of work for the most return, resulting in a less tiring experience.
To give him a leg up while playing the game, he decided to rig a trigger to his Yamaha MIDI bass pedal, which is properly weighted. He consulted the Rock Band forums, and after looking at a couple of different circuit diagrams, he designed his own. He etched a PCB, mounted his SMD components, and was well on his way to becoming a drum legend.
He says that the pedal interface works quite well, and despite a couple of tiny soldering setbacks, he has yet to see any errant hits register in-game.
Be sure to check out the video below of his drum trigger undergoing some tests.
[viddler id=281d0c9f&w=470]
| 7
| 7
|
[
{
"comment_id": "376266",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:29:16",
"content": "Don’t assume the loss of a limb can ruin a drumming career: just look at Rick Allen!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376296",
"author": "jon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:11:47",
"content": "I was secretly hoping this post was a little different. I thought maybe someone figured out how to connect a computer midi to rockband. That way they could play a perfect set just by writing a midi file. That way nerd power could finally overcome a lack of rhythm. Oh well, now I must continue to avoid rockband. Nice hack anyway!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376337",
"author": "Adrian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:08:33",
"content": "Being a drummer that also has played a good bit of rockband, I have to say – the “ease” of playing a real kick pedal vs the rockband kick pedal is grossly exaggerated here. Playing at volume is just as tiring, if not more, on an acoustic kit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376357",
"author": "Drew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:28:05",
"content": "@jonThere’s an official peripheral that lets you connect MIDI devices to Rock Band.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376358",
"author": "golddigger50",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:28:12",
"content": "I would like to see the rest of the kit implemented, but I am sure they are available in the forums like the one he went to.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376519",
"author": "Brad",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:58:35",
"content": "@Pedro – What has 9 arms and sucks???Had to do it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376568",
"author": "error404",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T22:24:53",
"content": "What kind of sensor is he using. He talks about microswitches and piezos. If he’s using piezos, how is it implemented?No pics and no implementation details make me sad :(, the electronics is the easy part.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.62908
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/08/friday-converting-from-clutter-closet-to-dreamy-datacenter/
|
Converting From Clutter Closet To Dreamy Datacenter
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"home hacks"
] |
[
"closet",
"data center",
"exhaust",
"fan",
"rack"
] |
[DocDawning] had a nice home network up and running, but the messy pit housing the hardware made him avoid that part of the house. In an effort to cut down on noise, and clean up the clutter,
he built himself a very nice data center inside a small closet
.
One of the biggest changes in the setup provides adequate cooling. He cut a vent hole into a wall shared between the closet and a hallway. This was just the right size for a few large cooling fans which suck air into the enclosed space. But cool-air intake must be accompanied by hot-air outflow so he added an exhaust vent in the ceiling. This also received a trio of big fans, and as you can see above, the integrated LEDs act as a light source for the server farm.
The final part of the plan involved machine-specific brackets mounted to the walls of the enclosure. These racks were built out of 1×1 white wood. They hold the hardware in place leaving plenty of room to run cables. The new setup even opened up enough wall space to mount power and networking hardware. Now everything has its place, and [DocDawning] can finally close the door on his noisy servers.
| 51
| 47
|
[
{
"comment_id": "376221",
"author": "bash",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:18:08",
"content": "love love love it! This is almost exactly what I want for my own place!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376223",
"author": "Rich",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:21:52",
"content": "So… what did he do with the printer?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376224",
"author": "Jim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:23:23",
"content": "I would have done that in steel",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376235",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:39:07",
"content": "It’s a nice project. I wonder if any space/heat could be saved by upgrading hardware and using virtualisation?And blue LED lighting? Yuck! And those ghetto looking holes won’t do any favours for the house’s value.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376236",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:40:00",
"content": "Oh, and who is Friday, and how did they help with the project? :p",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376238",
"author": "kevin mcguigan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:41:27",
"content": "Wow! Is this a setup for some sort of business or storage for data? How come there are so many computers and this is described as a home network.What do you do with all this equipment?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376242",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:46:01",
"content": "Nice! I do wonder about the server orientation though. You might get better cooling if you flip the servers around. Normally, data centers have air intake side facing front of servers and exhaust side would sit opposite from it (cold isle – hot isle). That way you ensure you get cold air going into the servers and pull the hot air out the back (or the top in your case).Either way, great stuff!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376258",
"author": "cpmike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:13:58",
"content": "Did you cut the sheetrock holes by using a hammer? Looks much better overall though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376263",
"author": "sml",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:18:23",
"content": "I hope he vented it to the outside otherwize he may have a mould problem later on",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376271",
"author": "isama",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:37:31",
"content": "Wow. I love it. i still need a rack for my collection of 19″ machines. hmm. thanks for the inspiration.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376274",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:43:43",
"content": "I foumd a better use for space converting a closed into automated grow box",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376276",
"author": "medix",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:45:36",
"content": "Seems like adding that many fans will only make the noise worse.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376283",
"author": "noonevac",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:56:39",
"content": "i like the first one better. more hackerish :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376286",
"author": "cb88",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:58:43",
"content": "Large fans are quiet … this the small high speed fans you have to watch out for…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376287",
"author": "Henrik Pedersen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:01:06",
"content": "Wtf that’s many servers… I only run 3 and I thought I where extreme…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376289",
"author": "kyoorius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:03:34",
"content": "I went the with Pedro’s suggestion and consolidated 3 old machines and a stack of small (by today’s comparison) hard drives into one microATX Atom 510 with a few “green” terabyte drives. That one machine is the family video/picture/fileserver, asterisk pbx, weather station, local backup, and sometimes a development box. It also serves a handful of other functions, which don’t immediately come to mind right now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376297",
"author": "Daley",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:12:01",
"content": "I once had a similar setup – a bunch of machines scavenged from here and there, cobbled together in quite an interesting array (on Visio, that is). In reality, I had the same nightmare he started with. Troubleshooting and upgrades were a problem, and living in Texas meant that the extra heat was an issue – not to mention the power consumption. In the end, I got rid of the whole lot and settled on one beefy machine that became my Xen server.I applaud the guy’s accomplishment, but I (like others) question the resale value of the home with the mod’s done. It appears to be an older home, and patching those holes seamlessly might be a challenge.Having gone down these same roads myself, he’s doing things better than I did when I was at this stage of the game.Congrat’s!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376311",
"author": "Dan J.",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:19:35",
"content": "Isn’t this essentially a system which sucks loads of cool AC air out of the house and into the attic? I’m sure it cools down the server room but it seems like it’s equivalent to running your AC with a fan sitting in the window.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376314",
"author": "Jim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:31:28",
"content": "“It appears to be an older home, and patching those holes seamlessly might be a challenge”Dude…what the hell are you talking about??It is going to take about an hour to patch those holes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376320",
"author": "HackTheGibson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:39:55",
"content": "I used a bathroom fan to move my hot air out the ceiling. Purchasing the quitest one allowed a lot more air movement than the computer fans. Wired it into a thermostat, so any time it goes over 71, the fan goes on. I also have my media equipment in my closet including blue ray, reciver, xbox, cd player and a few other toys.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376325",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:46:33",
"content": "Daley I bet you never take off protective film/bag off you tv, monitors, sofa etc… what the point to have something if you constantly afraid to use it. Only what irreplaceable is friend and pets",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376343",
"author": "cantido",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:16:56",
"content": "So he has a bunch of old ass tower machines in a cupboard?I used to have u1 boxes, sparc pizza boxes, networking etc under my kitchen sink. Does that mean I had an underwater datacenter. ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376353",
"author": "Big J",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:20:30",
"content": "my only thing with this nice new setup is how long the extraction fans will keep working for. I have used similar fans in the past for similar projects but found that the fans had a tendancy to burn out fairly regularly or melted the bushings in the motors and making lost of majic blue smoke :) still nice job, like it. if they are running all the time keep an eye on em :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3412265",
"author": "DocDawning",
"timestamp": "2017-02-15T00:24:49",
"content": "Here we are 6 years later. I’ve barely changed the closet since the day I rigged it up. The fans are all still working fine. And quiet as ever.",
"parent_id": "376353",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "376356",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:27:11",
"content": "Check with fire code before copying this approach.There are fire code rules about how you can vertically vent between floors. An open hole like this will both feed a fire as well as providing a faster path for flames to spread.(note: fire codes don’t guarantee fireproofing anything… they’re mainly designed to ensure a slow rate of fire spread. This is why you can not have gaping holes around pipes which penetrate drywall. The drywall will eventually burn but it’s designed to sustain a certain number of minutes abuse.)A safer and more energy efficient approach would be a pair of heat exchangers, fans, and closed loop coolant.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3412270",
"author": "DocDawning",
"timestamp": "2017-02-15T00:27:37",
"content": "In the case of this house, my house, the ceiling of the closet is completely openly exposed to the downstairs bathroom, which, has other ceiling “panels” the previous owner made by stapling burlap on the roof and painting it. You have a great point and I think it stands. In the case of my rickety very old house… My walls are more illusions than anything.",
"parent_id": "376356",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "376366",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:38:35",
"content": "It’s bad enough that HaD authors make so many mistakes in their posts(I sometimes wonder if it’s an inside joke) but must commenters also be so retarded?“space converting a closed into automated grow box”“this the small high speed fans you have to watch out for”” I only run 3 and I thought I where extreme”“I went the with Pedro’s suggestion and”“Only what irreplaceable is friend and pets”“my only thing with this nice new setup ”Read your comment before submitting it!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376372",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:49:35",
"content": "As for what he’s using them for, see –http://geekery.dawning.ca/datacentreSeems like real overkill. Updated hardware and virtualisation would have saved him money and time in the long run.What a waste of space and electricity.Hurrah for you. You put up some fucking shelves. Somebody get this men a medal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3412274",
"author": "DocDawning",
"timestamp": "2017-02-15T00:29:07",
"content": "I haven’t yet received my fucking metal. What’s the deal?",
"parent_id": "376372",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "376392",
"author": "RogerPodacter",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T18:42:29",
"content": "@steviei think you mean “Somebody get this *man* a medal.”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376396",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T18:48:18",
"content": "You are absolutely correct that the older systems are almost useless (and could be virtualized). I’m not sure he would even need to upgrade the host server except for the memory. The other servers are just toy/nostalgia systems as he notes.If “where he archives his data” means “onsite backups”, the exercise is pointless (as on-site != backups). Encrypt that stuff and shove it in some cloud service. But he could also have meant fileserver.I’m not above sarcasm, Stevie, but you’re too harsh. The closet -looks- nice and is well organized, and it’s HAD’s fault not his if it’s a slow news day.That said I hope he DOES see this, and has the local fire inspector or home inspector take a look at his vent because it seems like it would violate fire code as well as risk life. Beyond that I would be worried it violates some clause in homeowner insurance which is not a good place to be at.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3412277",
"author": "DocDawning",
"timestamp": "2017-02-15T00:34:03",
"content": "Safety is paramount to me, always has been. Nothing posted about this was able to give the entire context. Suffice to say, I deemed the risk to be very low, especially compared against what I had before. Probably the biggest risk in my household remains people (not me) leaving the oven turned-on.",
"parent_id": "376396",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "376484",
"author": "DocDawning",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:08:20",
"content": "Wow, trollfest 2011! Hah…. Such energy, such life!To answer some questions/dick-comments:* The house is from 1926 and I’ve ripped out most of the basement where this closet is. In ~10yrs, I’m knocking down the house. An old (very) inner-city house across two lots isn’t worth scat (even with corn in it). The land, that’s where the money is. Holes in a wall are easy fix anyway.* I have been a massive throbbing fan and pusher of Virtualization since the late 90s. The assumption I didn’t already, concerns me.* The machines are:— pfsense Router (may move to a WRT box)— File Server— VM Server (ESXi FTW)— Secondary Workstation— Scratch Pad box* The ventilation is in to a vacant bathroom. Interesting comments about the mold. Calgary is VERY dry. But I’ll keep that in mind, thx* If you go to my journal site (http://is.gd/UIlBiO) you fan analysis. The bathroom ones I saw had terrible flow rate to device volume ratios. And, were very expensive for similarly low volume levels.* The LEDs came with the fans. I was after good flow rates, low dBA & cheap. Powering 1 LED costs me ~0.00043 $/yr (if left on a full yr). If that’s significant to you, seek therapy.* I calculated that I spend ~$30/mth to power my computers. I’d say that’s a lot, to me it’s worth it. If it’s not to you, that’s fine. You also don’t actually know what I use my machines for.I adore the comments that riddled with false assumptions. That reinforces that the hacker culture is inclined to assume everyone is stupid. We should work on this. I’m no genius, but I didn’t explain every dimension here as most don’t have a sufficient attention span.Anyway, it was a fun project. Probably a bit overkill, I’m cool with it. Thanks to HaD for putting it up.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376492",
"author": "DocDawning",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:19:39",
"content": "I’ll add, no where have I REALLY explained in REAL detail what I’m using the main machines in there for. I consider doing so a (minor) security risk I’d rather not incur. But I like how certain most seem to be that it must be for stupid purposes. That said only really three of those machines matter. But you know, there’s this thing called the future, it’s unknown, but I’ve tried to prepare a bit.As for fire concerns, it’s a house from the 20s. If you guys saw the crazy shit previous owners have done to this place, and then the pains I’ve gone through to safely power my machines, you’d know it’s as good as it’s gonna be. I’ll also re-state: the (seriously trivial) heat, vents in to another room. But the walls themselves are not dry wall, (well some are), but most of them down there are cobbled together with weird crap that wouldn’t remotely a fire. Maybe if the rooms were air tight, but they’re far from it.Thanks for all the love gang.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376493",
"author": "DocDawning",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:21:52",
"content": "s/wouldn’t remotely a fire/wouldn’t remotely hinder a fire/g",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376500",
"author": "DocDawning",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:29:36",
"content": "@Scott I agree with you comments about backups. I backup stuff from the cloud locally.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376518",
"author": "Decius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:57:20",
"content": "With all the pussy bitching aside, and straight to the Point of this ‘hack’.Well done, I’ve got to say you modified the closet to your needs keeping clutter away from eyes and putting it in its own dedicated space.I actually respect your ingenuity, someone posted about the out dated systems I was thinking that my self ha, I still got a few running :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376524",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T21:09:51",
"content": "I would have just installed a 45U rack and rack-mounted that junk.Maybe I’m too “heavy metal” for this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376533",
"author": "DocDawning",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T21:23:08",
"content": "“The Grid” ran just fine on SunOS 5.x, not everything has to be cutting edge.. har har har@Life2Death: I respect your metal. I’ve been tempted that way many times. Just, I don’t need tier 1 hardware so I don’t care to pay for it.@Decius: Thanks for the pleasant comments dude. My upgrade interests are about Memory and Storage. If I need intense processing, that’s what my 8-core Xeon workstation (not in the closet is for). Future spending will be on a nice Oscilloscope & various musical instruments.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376579",
"author": "jason",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T22:50:09",
"content": "Can someone buy him a few kill-a-watts. Interested in the Watts / hour of this setup!Dockstar FTW!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376621",
"author": "rdlk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T00:48:39",
"content": "First of all – great job.Second – to all those people crying about resale, that stuff is either fibro or the modern replacement, it’s dead easy to patch (or replace a whole sheet, it’s like a few hours work, bam.)But why would he? there are grills on it, most people would just see that and go “Oh hey, three vents, that’s wierd.” and that would be in the end of it. I’m sure there are other things in the house a prospective buyer would care about more.I built a similar setup a few years back in my basement – and yes, it was a “permanent” installation. If I sell the house, the server room comes with it. Some might like that (not many I’d hazard.)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376629",
"author": "Mike Bradley",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T01:17:15",
"content": "I like to use small racks for this sort of stuff:http://www.n34d.com/index.php?post/2010/11/07/Remote-Location-NetworkI buy them here:http://cableorganizer.com/computer-cabinets/open-racks.htm#2-postjust put those pc in a 4U case, more than enough room in the case if needed",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376780",
"author": "Onaka",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T04:49:45",
"content": "Hehe, should replace the blue LED lights with RGB LEDs, or at least add a bunch of red LEDs. Could then set up some temperature probes and change the lighting based on temperature, as the highest temperature amongst the computers gets higher, the lighting turns red, then finally starts flashing on and off, or something similar.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377011",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T13:07:18",
"content": "I can’t believe the amount of tolls on hackaday. Surely people can take things for what they are? Yes, you might build your cupboard out of titanium and rick astleys hair, but who cares? This guy has built it, it looks awesome, and it achieves what he wants to achieve. Can’t we leave it at that? If you have something to say, let it be constructive.On topic, well done. It is a very neat job. I have a 19 inch rack at home, and wish I had the time to cable it as neatly as you have yours.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377025",
"author": "Itwork4me",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T14:02:04",
"content": "Not a bad setup. Perhaps if you were concerned about security, you wouldn’t describe the house and neighborhood to challenge others to look for…and you’d post anonymously. I mean if I wanted to figure where you live, it’s all right there. Check the guy with the 1920s house and meter running like crazy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377191",
"author": "DocDawning",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T18:37:16",
"content": "@Itwork4me – There are different kinds of security. There are plenty of houses from the 20s in Calgary, if you can figure out exactly where mine is, I’ll give you $1 over paypal. As for the network security, yeah, that’s another discussion I’m not bothering to have.. Also, my equipment all running uses less power than a hair dryer, lots of house hold equipment uses heaps of power, computers aren’t that bad once they’re past the first second of powering up.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377635",
"author": "Miles",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T15:04:44",
"content": "Ah I love this kind of geek porn. Setting up a little server cupboard.Excellent, keep us updated as you change it!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378250",
"author": "SonicBroom",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T14:32:47",
"content": "Jeez… some people are dicks. Nice effort man, not to mention a good read! I’ve just bookmarked your post for future reference when i say bye-bye to rented accomodation :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378997",
"author": "bunedoggle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T19:05:51",
"content": "I used to run a number of machines like this but my electric bill was killing me. Each machine cost between $8-10 dollars per month. I shut down four machines and saved over $36 per month.Then I used the savings to pay for dedicated web hosting. Now I run just one machine as a file server and the other machines are hibernating when not in use.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379601",
"author": "ZeroDamage",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T17:54:07",
"content": "I think this is cool as hell! I’ve been renting forever and am buying my first home in about a month and there is A LOT of free space in this new house. I am claiming a small room in the basement with a closet similar to yours and may do something similar. Fortunately the house isn’t as old as your’s and has a lot of ventilation and duck-work already there. I could easily do something similar without having to find a place to dump the heat and pull the cooler air. This looks awesome!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "3412280",
"author": "Doc Dawning",
"timestamp": "2017-02-15T00:43:00",
"content": "For other necromancers, the original post that HaD used to make this is reachable here:https://sites.google.com/a/dawning.ca/geekery/datacentre/project-reincarnation",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.788288
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/08/mayor-is-a-hacker-and-wants-to-use-diy-parking-meters/
|
Mayor Is A Hacker And Wants To Use DIY Parking Meters
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Transportation Hacks"
] |
[
"parking meter",
"penny"
] |
The Mayor of Silverton, Oregon is a hacker and
wants to use roll-your-own hardware in the town’s parking meters
. It’s not that he thinks he can do a better job than companies selling modern meters (although there have been
notable problems with those
), but he wants to retain the sentiment of the 1940’s era parking meters that are being replaced. Those meters are known as penny parking meters, because you can get 12 minutes of time for just one penny.
Many municipalities have gone digital with parking payment systems due to costs associated with servicing mechanical meters and collecting coins from each one of them. This hack aims to keep the look of the vintage meters, but replace the mechanical readout with a digital screen. The meter would still offer a reasonable parking deal; five minutes for free. Cost for replacing the internals is estimated at $150 per meter… which seems just a bit high if they are looking at a 250 unit run. The main problem that we see with the idea is that the original parking meter bodies don’t have a slot which can accept quarters.
[Thanks Rick]
| 33
| 33
|
[
{
"comment_id": "376192",
"author": "Parcanman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T13:11:17",
"content": "With a little stepper motor, he could even use the original dial. A servo would be easier, but servos need constant power to hold a position, which can be challenging on batteries, but one of those really little steppers could go right off the 5v microcontroller pins as long as it didn’t have a load bigger than the needle.I wonder if a gearing down the handle to a little motor could generate enough to keep a battery charged (in addition to the solar panels that should be used anyway).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376199",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T13:24:48",
"content": "Just convert them to use RFID and have a tag dispenser or whatever.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376208",
"author": "Brian.Holiday",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T13:37:55",
"content": "150 a meter seems pretty cheap when you include labor costs. The last network appliance I designed cost 200K for the first five units, only 25K was materials.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376211",
"author": "salec",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T13:43:09",
"content": "If I remember correctly, pushing the coin into slot used to wind up the mechanism of the meter. Could it be reproduced with an electronic device?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376212",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T13:43:49",
"content": "i also vote for the servo option, without LCD :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376213",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T13:45:20",
"content": "also, did anyone try making their own coin acceptors? i am not exactly sure how they work but i guess that they measure magnetic properties of a coin as well as the speed it drops in.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376218",
"author": "Oren Beck",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:02:53",
"content": "Open Hardware and Software.Simply put- Serial # 1,000,000 is inherently a hugely non-linear magnitude cheaper than the prototype or first 1K production units. Call it a riff on Moore’s Law?Well, that applies to components too. I hope the Mayor in question reaches out to ALL of the Open Stuff groups! We “could” consider it a literal civic duty. Our taxes and the operating expenses of our world could be affected in Very Good Ways.I’ve got some very socially positive ideas about this that I am gifting the world with. Not arrogance, just a Karma offering of sorts:}Folks- we can hack our world with this in some socially huge ways. It’s not arrogance to say dedicated Hackers can change the world.Envision every parking meter as a mesh node. And an Open Sourced node for the Gunfire detection microphones! Hell- We could cite history if those companies challenge us. Ah well- we dream more than anyone dares to build.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376233",
"author": "Booker T. Worthington",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:35:14",
"content": "Is it just me or does that guy have a boob job?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376239",
"author": "Tom the Brat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:41:31",
"content": "Quarters? Goodness, meters around here want 20’s. (Slight exaggeration)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376247",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:58:48",
"content": "@Oren Beck – +1 for “mesh node. And an Open Sourced node for the Gunfire detection microphones!” Really cool idea!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376252",
"author": "doronbc",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:04:30",
"content": "@Booker T. Worthington, I thought I was crazy too!He was reported to be the nation’s first openly transgender mayor when he was elected as the mayor of Silverton, Oregon in November 2008http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stu_Rasmussen",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376257",
"author": "Chris G.",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:13:48",
"content": "Yes. Yes, he does.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376282",
"author": "octel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:56:27",
"content": "@jonathango look up the word “tranny” on wikipedia. it’s akin to using the n-word to casually describe a person of colorwhile i’m sure it was not your intent, you are throwing around some horribly offensive language",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376308",
"author": "zay34kc3",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:14:53",
"content": "Yes, he’s transgendered:http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2008/11/09/americas-first-transgende_n_142503.htmlOf course, I fail to see the point in bringing it up unless we’re discussing hacking one’s own body.Personally, I’d like to see more hacking-inclined politicians. Maybe governments and public organizations wouldn’t get taken for a ride when buying products and services. It’d be great when a company says, “We can provide for $1000/ea,” and the mayor says, “Really, I hacked a prototype together for $300. And since it’s open source hardware and software, it won’t become obsolete if you decide to stop making it.”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376328",
"author": "macona",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:52:39",
"content": "Wow, this is taking place not far from here.I like the meters in Portland. One meter per block front. Prints out stickers that you put on your window. You can then park anywhere, move your car, whatever, and you are good till the time printed on the sticker.Also the machines take cards and with many of us not using cash thats a good thing.I understand trying to keep the old bases, but if you are still replacing the guts with a electronic display, who cares at that point.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376333",
"author": "David s",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T16:58:54",
"content": "Honestly it sounds like the only way this would be cheaper is with RFID… That idea was brilliant. 150 bucks a meter sounds really reasonable for a professionally built machine.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376334",
"author": "Andrew Parting",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:00:58",
"content": "Erm, is that a transvestite?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376341",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:15:34",
"content": "This is a REALLY cool idea.You know it costs literally millions to put in parking meters, right? $150/meter is a steal, plus if it’s open source it can be improved (for free) and all of the profit goes right back to the city for renovation/upkeep.Most meters here are $1-2/hour and take credit card…. which means the credit card company is taking their portion, the company who developed the meters are taking theirs, and the consumer foots the larger bill to make up the difference. Plus the damn things are broken half the time anyway.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376342",
"author": "jaqen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:16:42",
"content": "+1 to andrew for not reading the other posts before posting himself",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376354",
"author": "Booker T. Worthington",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:26:29",
"content": "@zay34kc3 Of course there is a point of bringing it up. This guy looks like a character!On your point of saving money, we’d have to wait an see. It’s cool that the mayor is taking the initiative to save some money, but it could end up costing more in the long run to DIY it.It takes a lot more to create a robust product than just slapping some parts together for a quick prototype. I saw digital retrofits available for $80.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376360",
"author": "Gilliam",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:29:14",
"content": "@ Parcanman and @Oren Beck: power them from solar pannels on the roofs of nearby shops.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376370",
"author": "Drew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:44:55",
"content": "But, why?What’s wrong with the old mechanical parking meters? They should be easy to service compared to an electronic one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376390",
"author": "Renee",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T18:34:25",
"content": "Wait, so the more recent comment got deleted but the tranny one stays?Yeah it’s a word that’s been used a lot in the past but it’s derogatory and people shouldn’t be using it. It’s like the difference between faggot and gay. Going around and calling people the f-word is going to get you in hot water. Same goes for calling people trannys.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376403",
"author": "zay34kc3",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T19:02:47",
"content": "@Booker, you can save money without having to DIY it. When you can demonstrate a prototype that’s much cheaper, you put the vendor in a position of having to defend a higher cost.It may very well be that the product is worth it. You want something to survive a corrosive environment, you put it in a NEMA 4X enclosure that’s gonna cost money. My little Radioshack enclosure is no comparison.But if the vendor can’t justify it, you’ve got leverage.This doesn’t mean elected officials need to start pouring over schematics and BOMs to get a good deal. It does mean that when someone says they’ll provide a simple item for some ungodly price, officials have the chops to question it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376489",
"author": "jonathan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:19:12",
"content": "@octelMy apologies. No offense was intended. I will watch my use of the word in the future.I like Silverton. From what I understand he is a decent mayor and well liked. It is amazing that he is a mayor of a farming town as they tend to be very conservative. I think it’s cool to see that a mayor is a hacker and looking to put some of those skills to use.The main point of my original post is that I totally understand the idea of hacking their meters as the parking there is like 15 cents an hour. He can keep the parking rates low by finding cheaper alternatives to upgrading them.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376516",
"author": "Booker T. Worthington",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:56:01",
"content": "@zay34kc3 agree 100%. I’ve done lots of work with government contractors and their MO is to charge as much as they can get.The one hitch here is that it’s very much an old boys club so that really plays into how the contract is awarded and has less to do about the quality of the product/service and price.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376549",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T21:58:57",
"content": "@drew, maybe true if you have a skilled jeweler/machinist that can build you new clockwork gears after they corrode, break or otherwise cease to work with the elemental and human abuses thrown at them. But I’m with the others saying keep the dial, use a servo or other quartz mechanism to drive a needle.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376614",
"author": "Andrew Parting",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T00:19:51",
"content": "Are you supposed to call them she? I’m never sure…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376782",
"author": "John Avitable",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T04:52:41",
"content": "@Andrew PartingWhen in doubt, go with the presented gender. If you called him she, I’m pretty sure he wouldn’t be offended, however, he identifies as he.A good rule of thumb I often find is to go by what the torso looks like. If someone has boobs, you’d probably be fair to go with she, most Female-to-Male transfolk bind thus minimizing their chest. If you don’t see large boobs, but they’re wearing a female type shirt, you can go with she as well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376783",
"author": "John Avitable",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T04:56:00",
"content": "Gah, I didn’t want to do two posts (accidentally submitted)…AS FOR THE HACK!I really like this, something that’s going on in our city is parking meters which can accept credit cards. I think it would be cool to, as well as very easy, to implement that into these meters. I’m not sure how power is handled, but the meters that I’m speaking of use solar panels. I wish there were more details for the mechanics of this hack (unless I’m just missing them).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376836",
"author": "lurker",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T07:59:05",
"content": "Can’t really contribute anything here, but it gives me a new appreciation for “small” (relatively speaking” towns… I can go anywhere in a 40 mile radius, with localities numbering from 3-30 thousand residents, and park for free.…Meters? Meter Maids? It’s called land, parking lots, and people who aren’t straight-up assholes…And in NEW YORK STATE – guess which side?…Sorry – Just never quite understood why people would be willing and eager to move to a metropolitan area where they’re nothing more than a number and a source of revenue…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377026",
"author": "John Avitable",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T14:07:02",
"content": "@therianWas that really necessary? I thought that HaD had a more respectable community…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "391987",
"author": "Denis..",
"timestamp": "2011-05-09T21:03:50",
"content": "What’s remarkable is how we desperately try to use technology and money. After the war, and up until the early seventies, France used a cash and technology-free system called the “Zone bleue” or ‘blue zone”. Drivers used a standard cardboard disk that spun around in a cardboard sleeve with two holes. One hole displayed the arrival time, the other the expiration time. You just left it on your dash and at a glance traffic wardens (“les pervenches”) knew if you’d overstayed your welcome. If you wanted extra time, you had to come back and spin the disc to the new time. No change, no meters. We could maybe learn from the past…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.697414
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/08/sequencer-built-on-a-cycle-ii-fpga-board/
|
Sequencer Built On A Cycle II FPGA Board
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"digital audio hacks",
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"Altera",
"cyclone II",
"fpga",
"sequencer"
] |
[Matt’s] finishing up his computer science degree. As part of a class assignment he programmed
his own sequencer which runs on a Cyclone-II FPGA
development board. We’ve embedded a video below the fold that shows you what it can do. The buttons and LEDs offered on the board actually allowed him to create a nice user interface. Each slide switch has a surface mount LED above it, giving feedback for which beats in the loop are on and off. There’s also a bank of momentary-push buttons seen in blue above. [Matt] uses these to tweak settings like the pitch that is stored for each slide switch. He even puts on a light show with the VGA output.
We’ve seen this Altera board before,
used to drive a falling sands game
. The hardware will run you around $200 but that’s not bad considering all of the fun things you can do with it.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMf7V_3iFXc&w=470]
| 7
| 7
|
[
{
"comment_id": "376172",
"author": "steve",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T12:24:54",
"content": "i have one of these for college. The software running it is closed source and EXTREMELY expensive and documentation is really hard to find.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376182",
"author": "Ben",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T12:38:37",
"content": "@steve: The free versions of Altera’s stuff is pretty decent and now support Linux as does Xilinx’s ISE. But yeah, good luck doing anything beyond simulation in open source software. Truly unfortunate.Anyways, we did nearly the same project a few years ago for a university course but with compositions that could be added in “ROM” and no video output. Good fun way to get into FPGAs. Those Altera boards (notably the larger DE2) have everything under the sun built in.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376187",
"author": "Scott Smith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T12:55:22",
"content": "The title reads “Cycle II” instead of “Cyclone II”. I noticed this instantly which must mean I’m rather awake today. Maybe I’ll get some work done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376245",
"author": "Malte",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:54:36",
"content": "The DE1 he is using costs 150$, or 125$ for students. There is a cheaper version (which I own), the DE0, which costs only 79$ for students, and is still big enough for most projects.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376259",
"author": "Greg",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:14:44",
"content": "@steve: As Ben said you can get a free version of Quartus II which is perfectly adequate for the DE1 board, and documentation can be easily accessed here:http://www.altera.com/literature/lit-qts.jsp, not exactly hard to find…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376268",
"author": "Matt Connors",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:31:13",
"content": "Thanks for the mention! Funny side-story: when I presented it to the class, the speakers were not working and apparently I messed up the video timing. A glorious fail, but fortunately the video provided something I could point at to say “See? I’m not an idiot, I swear it works!”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376609",
"author": "Aaron",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T00:03:37",
"content": "Very cool. I like this board myself:http://www.terasic.com.tw/cgi-bin/page/archive.pl?Language=English&CategoryNo=139&No=593",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,221.043167
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/08/body-heat-sensing-pc-security-system/
|
Body Heat Sensing PC Security System
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"computer hacks",
"Security Hacks"
] |
[
"ir",
"security",
"software",
"temperature monitoring"
] |
[Didier Stevens] wrote in to tell us about a little piece of PC security software he put together recently. His application,
LockIfNotHot
, works in conjunction with your PC as well as an IR temperature sensor in order to lock your computer the moment you step away.
The theory behind the system is pretty simple. Basically, the IR temp sensor monitors when you are at your desk, sensing your presence by the heat your body gives off. As soon as you step away however, it locks the computer since the temperature of the surrounding area immediately drops. It’s pretty simple, but as you can see in the video below, it works quite well.
The software has configurable set points and timeout values, which make it flexible enough to adapt to your specific situation. He happens to use an off-the-shelf IR sensor, but we assume any USB temperature module will do the trick. If you happen to work with sensitive information but often forget to lock your workstation, this is the program for you!
Continue reading to see a quick demonstration of his software in action.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QynGtoxpRg4&w=470]
| 25
| 25
|
[
{
"comment_id": "376132",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:13:51",
"content": "it works great, but it would be even better if web cam could be used for this. maybe a range finder app on already integrated web cam?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376136",
"author": "Chris Smith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:20:08",
"content": "Don’t let employers get a hand on this. They’ll forever want statistics on if their employees are slaving.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376137",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:24:29",
"content": "I think I’d have it pointed at my coffee most of the time…when the computer locks out, time to get a reheat.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376138",
"author": "NoX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:31:21",
"content": "Great idea!mmm, maybe we will see an IR sensor in the next laptop gen?it’s much better to use an IR sensor as it requires no processor time as opposed to the webcam.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376139",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:31:33",
"content": "$87 for a silly IR module that provides fake security? Erm, I guess it’s our wallet that’s getting hacked today :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376140",
"author": "Henrik Pedersen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:34:34",
"content": "Haha high security :DI would love to hear in the news that some important stuff was stolen because an attacker fired a little 200 MW laser at the sensor so the computer didn’t lock..Great hack anyway :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376141",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:38:56",
"content": "Lockif35<temp<37 should solve the laser pointer issue.Or maybe generate a thermal signature of the person whenever they login, and if that changes by a certain amount lock it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376146",
"author": "Andrew Parting",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:50:11",
"content": "What a wonderful waste of time. That laptop has a built in webcam, motion sensors would be far more effective. Or just a baseline for what the background looks like.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376148",
"author": "NoX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:53:22",
"content": "I don’t think this was intended to increase the security of any system, it’s just an auto-lock option like the 5 or 10 minutes timeout.The module is too expensive, but the sensor itself should not be more than 20$:http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9570",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376151",
"author": "NoX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:56:36",
"content": "Andrew, wouldn’t be a greater waste of time to be continuously running a face recognition program?motion sensors? what do you think a motion sensor is made of?! most of them are an IR sensor, just like this!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376157",
"author": "medix",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T12:13:48",
"content": "… and what if your cat walks on the keyboard like mine does when you’re away? ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376174",
"author": "Boris",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T12:29:12",
"content": "What about locations where an ambient/air temperature may get beyond one of a human body? Is it going to fail without the air conditioning being constantly on ? :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376183",
"author": "Harvie.CZ",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T12:43:22",
"content": "What if you became a zombie a loose your temperature? you will not be able to use your computer to find cure for yourself.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376198",
"author": "DC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T13:24:17",
"content": "@medix CAT LIKE TYPING DETECTED",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376204",
"author": "Hadurrr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T13:35:01",
"content": "Clearly very few of you actually watched the video on this guy’s site. It takes about 2 whole seconds from when his ass leaves the chair to when the laptop locks.If your cat is that insane to jump all over your computer the second you get up – shame on you. Discipline your pets.If you don’t notice some dude with a laser pointer trying to hit a 1cm wide space in the 2 seconds it took you to stand up – shame on you. Pay more attention in life.It’s a decent project, though I would like to see the ir sensor embedded in the laptop so it travels with you all the time. It’s not a 100% failsafe, but it should keep your laptop locked when you want it to most of the time.And for those webcam guys – I’m sure monitoring a video stream and running a motion-sensing app on top of it is a great use of the CPU.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376217",
"author": "Eric",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T14:01:19",
"content": "Very good point, Harvie. All technology should take zombie accessibility into account.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376248",
"author": "ColinB",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:00:18",
"content": "@Henrik: “I would love to hear in the news that some important stuff was stolen because an attacker fired a little 200 MW laser at the sensor so the computer didn’t lock..”I don’t know, but I think a 200 megawatt laser pointed in the direction of someone’s desk would cause more than a little disruption.Of course you meant 200 mW laser and you are right, one would begin to trust this automatic locking system and then as you point out it would be easy to circumvent by an attacker.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376278",
"author": "medix",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:49:01",
"content": "@DC: You’ve got it. A few lines of garbled crap followed by 26 pages of the letter “y”. ;)@Hadurr: You obviously don’t have any cats. Ever heard the expression “.. like herding cats?” This figure of speech is so used because with most cats, it’s impossible. Besides, it’s not like they’re going to be in the circus.(sorry, forgot /extremesarcasam tags)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376395",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T18:43:13",
"content": "Well if you wanted to use a webcam, if you don’t want to buy an ir sensor, or are a zombie, you could just make the program “Lock if not Blob” if the camera senses a large object, human say, in front of the webcam, if stays on, if not it locks, just don’t drop a pencil!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376410",
"author": "Hadurrr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T19:14:02",
"content": "@medix: I do have a cat. In fact, I have two. It’s amazing the things that can be done when a little bit of time is invested in training your animals. Mine know that the desk is off limits, I have never found them up there.They are not circus-bound, they simply know their limits.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376411",
"author": "jamen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T19:17:21",
"content": "i’d like this to integrate with messenger, i’d love my messenger to show as away if i’m actually away!YEAH!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376535",
"author": "m",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T21:23:57",
"content": "and here i thought there was going to be some sort of API connection to upload image captures tohttp://hotornot.com/and use some condition like:if(usurper_attractiveness_rating/user_attractiveness_rating >= 1) return; else lock;man, was i off.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376584",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T22:59:32",
"content": "Best way to hack it would be to hack (or replace) the module.My issue though is that it’s so comparatively expensive, those IR temp devices can be had for a fraction of the cost and then it’s just hacking an interface for the computer (if it doesn’t have one), which can be relatively simple in design since it only needs to give a basic boolean 0/1 state.As for alternatives, how about a simple contactswitch to the chair, or a simple IR beam over it, I just think this can be done cheaper.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "380379",
"author": "Dick Rider",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T22:35:38",
"content": "I actually designed a similar solution last year, well i say designed – it really just involves pressing WIN+L when I leave the PCon a serious note surely it doesn’t really matter about this- If someone has physical access to your machine it is trivial to remove the logon password anyway- can be done in around 2 minutesso why would you even spend time for something like this, aside from fun and it’s a cool little hack",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2435171",
"author": "William DeRieux",
"timestamp": "2015-02-13T02:29:57",
"content": "Wow, just found this post…My first thought, as soon as I read it, was … what if you have some hot coffee in-front of the sensor (or close enough to it) that the system never auto-locks, since it assumes you are still present?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.995655
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/07/one-eyed-one-armed-metal-rolling-roomba-robot/
|
One-eyed, One-armed Metal Rolling Roomba Robot
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"robot",
"roomba",
"servo",
"webcam"
] |
[Erik] was
looking for a sturdy robotics platform
and was initially considering the iRobot Create, until he found that he could score a Roomba Discovery series for a fraction of the price. The Discovery includes a battery, which is missing from the iCreate, though it also has all of the standard vacuum bits included as well.
He immediately removed all of the vacuum parts once he got his hands on the Roomba, and began adding the support structure to house the rest of his robot’s components. The robot is controlled via a small laptop which sits on top of the Roomba’s base, and features a panning and telescoping webcam to provide feedback to the operator.
The robot has been under construction for a little over a year now, and has had a few upgrades over that time. The original laptop was swapped out for a newer dual-core model, and the webcam was upgraded to a model featuring motion tracking. The whole thing has been skinned in thin sheet metal for a sleek look, and he has added a servo-driven arm as well.
The project is not quite complete, and he hasn’t really stated what he plans on using the robot for, but it looks good so far – we can’t wait to see it when it’s finished.
| 11
| 11
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375805",
"author": "Payne",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T22:33:09",
"content": "…. so is this a ‘one-eyed monster’???OK, I can go back to being an adult!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375812",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T22:49:12",
"content": "The create isn’t “missing a battery” it just depends on what tier you buy. The cheapest tier ($150) takes AA batteries but every other tier after that includes a Ni-CD battery.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375837",
"author": "MovieMaker",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T23:28:31",
"content": "Mike or Erick,Please share your code.Thanks,MMC",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375929",
"author": "Erik",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T02:51:52",
"content": "Ok, the code is up.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375954",
"author": "Bp",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T04:03:33",
"content": "‘One-Eyed One-Horned Flying Purple People Eater’ reference acknowledged.I don’t know much about Roombas but I like where this project is going!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375967",
"author": "patman2700",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T04:45:53",
"content": "“…it was a one-eyed, one-armed, metal rolling Roomba robot, sure looked strange to me!”http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rx47qrH1GRs",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376043",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T07:30:37",
"content": "Umm, why not a more cost-effective CPU solution? ARM boards are much better suited to the task. They’re smaller, more power efficient, powerful enough, cheaper….quieter (not a real issue, I know)Nice project, though!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376153",
"author": "Erik",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T12:00:10",
"content": "The reason that I didn’t go with an ARM board or another embedded solution, is that I wanted the dual cores so I could use Roborealm’s machine vision capabilities. Also the dual core laptop cost me like $150 and since it’s a laptop it already has an onboard battery and human interface which makes troubleshooting a breeze.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376197",
"author": "Mike Nathan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T13:18:24",
"content": "@patman2700,Nice to see that somebody caught on :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "381953",
"author": "pagan0ne",
"timestamp": "2011-04-17T21:04:29",
"content": "Does one need a reason to build a robot? If i were to guess i would say this is being built to further his goals of world domi…err peace!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "5993978",
"author": "MHoekman",
"timestamp": "2019-03-19T12:57:32",
"content": "Is this robot still going, or is it scrapped?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,220.93397
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/07/simulating-vhdl-of-an-avr8-soft-processor/
|
Simulating VHDL Of An AVR8 Soft Processor
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"arduino",
"avr8",
"fpga",
"papilio",
"simulator",
"xilinx"
] |
Okay, now we’re beginning to feel a bit like [Alice].
This tutorial shows you how to simulate VHDL code
. This code is intended to run on an FPGA and includes a software-only version of the AVR 8-bit microcontroller core. Essentially, you’ll simulate VHDL code that simulates AVR hardware. Wrap your mind around that!
The code is intended to run on a
Papilio Field Programmable Gate Array development board
. We saw an
early version of this board
running the AVR8 core about a year ago. However, you don’t need to have any hardware to follow along and recreate this simulation yourself. It might be a great way to get your feet wet with FPGA programming before making that first hardware buy. Five different screencasts take you through the process of getting the AVR8 code, using an altered Arduino IDE for it, setting up a free version of Xilinx ISE to run the simulation, then setting it free and interpreting the data that the simulator spits out the other end.
| 8
| 8
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375415",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T13:50:54",
"content": "“Essentially, you’ll simulate VHDL code that simulates AVR hardware. Wrap your mind around that!”We have to go deeper! Run it in a virtual machine!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375422",
"author": "mic",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T13:58:51",
"content": "LoL. It’s a code inside of a code….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375445",
"author": "Benson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T14:25:33",
"content": "That’s pretty neat, if you’re 10.Didn’t we all make these into every shapeof altoids tin since 1980?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375472",
"author": "Spi Waterwing",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T14:58:47",
"content": "@CutThroughStuffGuy I’ve been working on a simple, specialized VM that we’ve been writin in Java; we’re going to run it in VirtualBox soon.Oh, and obligatory Inception joke here.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375582",
"author": "DarkFader",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:18:56",
"content": "So this is the FPGAduino? :)Does it have AVR JTAG port too? :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375725",
"author": "JBeale",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:16:43",
"content": "It’s quite a useful tutorial example for those starting to work with FPGAs. Just FYI, if you install the Xilinx ISE software, you will find it requires 11 GB of disk space.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375794",
"author": "Steve B",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T22:09:03",
"content": "This came along at just the right time for me. Thanks for posting! I’ve gotten to the point I’d consider myself “good” with AVR, and as JBeale said, it looks nice for just starting with FPGAs.The only ‘scary’ part is the size of that Xilinx tarball file: 3.88GB. :o Picked a helluva time to move to an SSD….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "396372",
"author": "Guan Yang",
"timestamp": "2011-05-20T15:42:20",
"content": "Has anyone thought about designing an Arduino-like board that has both a (real) AVR and an FPGA?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,221.089064
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/07/super-vmw-cpu-meter/
|
Super VMW CPU Meter
|
Kevin Dady
|
[
"Peripherals Hacks"
] |
[
"cpu meter"
] |
After many delays, restarts, and years, [Vince ] has finally finished his
Super VMW CPU Meter.
Featuring six alphanumeric red led displays, two 10 segment bar graphs, twelve red LEDs, and six color LEDs its got plenty of “screen” space to show all sorts of useful information.
Electrically its driven by four SAA1064 LED driver chips attached to an i2c bus which is banged by a PC’s parallel port and driven by software in linux. The software allows you to build displays for what ever application you may want, and even includes a color ASCII output so you can see what it will look like before you even have hardware.
Four examples are given, one is a cpu meter which uses the bar graph displays to show load per core. Another uses the bar graphs as a VU meter for your music while displaying the song’s information. There is a clock in all the normal formats + UNIX time, and some scrolling text demos.
Construction gets a little odd as overhang of chips and connectors was not really taken into account so some “lofting” was needed to raise the trouble spots above the rest of the board. It is not something we would want to do, but a handy trick if we are ever faced with that situation.
Join us after the break to see this wild light show in action.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rxlrvzy30pg&w=450]
| 10
| 10
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375362",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T12:30:30",
"content": "“which is banged” probably should be which is bit banged…makes a bit more sense.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375383",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T12:54:37",
"content": "Parallel ports make me sad. Stick a USB interface on that bad boy!It’s oh so gaudy but I love it.Oh, and Amish Paradise is a tune and a half; one of Weird Al’s best (Bedrock Anthem is /the/ best if you ask me).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375392",
"author": "Me",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T13:07:20",
"content": "starting from 0:26 so awesome. The king of nerd.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375416",
"author": "James",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T13:51:55",
"content": "[quote]Parallel ports make me sad. Stick a USB interface on that bad boy![/quote]But parallel ports don’t require software stacks and unique drivers just to operate, so much simpler!Nice little make, however I’m not sure as to it’s use – I mean the only time I care about what my CPU % is is when I think my machine has locked up, the rest of the time WGAS?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375446",
"author": "dext3r",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T14:27:44",
"content": "Agree with Pedro, gaudy but damn, its still really cool.Great project!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375465",
"author": "jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T14:47:34",
"content": "That’s a pretty slick thing. I like it",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375517",
"author": "deater",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:44:06",
"content": "Glad everyone seems to like the project.For the USB contingent, I just yesterday ordered all the parts necessary to complete a second meter, this time USB controlled instead of parallel port.Check back in a month or so and hopefully I’ll have a finished product. This one will have a black enclosure and I think I’ll try green alphanum/red bargraph for a change.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375550",
"author": "ZeroCool42",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:29:06",
"content": "Oh dear god the eye cancer, that thing is so salient that I hope (rather ironically) that it’s not in an easy to view location!Still, @deater I look forward to seeing a USB version, might be tempted to make my own, albeit slightly less distracting version :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375720",
"author": "Michael Bradley",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:13:39",
"content": "I have been wanting to do something like this for my servers, I want to see the cpu load on the front for each core.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376105",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T09:45:48",
"content": "“PC’s parallel port ”Haha, all you need is a time machine to travel back 20 years with this on your pocket.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,221.134256
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/07/pic-based-ham-radio-autotuner/
|
PIC-based Ham Radio Autotuner
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Radio Hacks"
] |
[
"cw",
"ham radio",
"pic"
] |
A few years back, [Floyd, K8AC]
built a high frequency autotuner as an addition to his Ham radio setup
. Based off a design he saw in QST magazine back in the early ’90s, he has been using the tuner almost daily for the last few years, on both the 3.5 MHz and 7 MHz bands.
Built into the wall in his radio room, it is a pretty impressive sight. His “L” circuit is controlled by a pair of mechanically coupled inductors which are driven in concert by a pair of two-way motors. The positioning of the C and L components are monitored by a PIC controller which stores the tuning data for up to 30 predefined frequencies. A couple of button presses on his controller’s front end sends the tuner into action, dialing in his unit’s inductors and capacitor to their proper settings. The PIC monitors the tuner’s progress, informing him when the proper frequency has been tuned in, or if the frequency can not be set, indicating issues with the equipment.
His setup has undergone several revisions over the years, with the most recent iteration being the most automated of the bunch. Check out his site for plenty more details, or keep an ear out for [K8AC] on 40 or 80 meters.
[Thanks, Rich V]
| 6
| 6
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375335",
"author": "Garreth",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T11:21:30",
"content": "This will not make you sound like mega-gigabyte T pain",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375395",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T13:12:42",
"content": "lol, Garreth you made my day",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375476",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:01:50",
"content": "@Floyd,Cool setup, especially the mechanical part :)Have a question/suggestion though. Wouldn’t it be fairly straight forward to replace the manual entry of the working frequency with a simple freq meter that will let MCU know what the current point should be?Also, I’ve seen fairly significant environmental (mostly weather related) impact on the antenna system’s impedance, so having static/predefined values for LC filters components usually does not get you the best SWR possible.There are fairly straight forward and fast converging algorithms for tuning 3 parameter systems (your LCL for example), especially fast when you have a good starting point (the predefined values you already use).Might be worth considering in your next release :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375548",
"author": "Pookey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:23:54",
"content": "@Miroslav-I’d be interested in seeing a description of those algorithms. Do you know of any documentation on the web that discusses them?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375688",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:26:44",
"content": "@PookeyDon’t have anything specific to offer now, but here are some ideas to consider:1) system has 3 “orthogonal” variables (meaning that you can not tune one independently from other two)2) there might be multiple “sweet spots” (combination of LC values that are better then nearby values)3) in most cases there is no need to find the “sweetest spot” (as in an absolute minimum SWR). The algorithm should have an “acceptable” value for achieved SWR, and once you find th local minimum with SWR better then stated, tuning stops. (As on “stop trying if you find 1:1.3 or better”)4) Having predefined start values for particular frequencies might speed up convergence (that’s what described system has today)So, the system with three orthogonal variables is actually very complex, but accepting assumptions above can be simplified to something that simply said will achieve acceptable, but not the best, results.a) get the frequencyb) look up and set to predefine start valuesc) measure SWRd) change one value, measure SWR, if better continue, if worst, change “direction” of the change. When you find local minimum, do the same with the next component. If desired, repeat the process around that new combination of valuesFinding the absolute minimum is much more complex and would take a long time to achieve (converge). As values are orthogonal, finding the sweet spot (minimum) for each one does not mean you will achieve an absolute sweet spot.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375691",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:34:30",
"content": "Just another idea out of the left field. Not even sure if technically/theoretically possible.Measure the complex impedance of he antenna system for given frequency, calculate the LC network for given output impedance of the transmitter, do some math, adjust values.There are some “small” obstacles with this approach, one being that transmitter’s impedance is not a constant value, the other being that antenna system’s impedance might change with inserted power (especially if you measure with mW and then use with kW), not to even mention that measuring the complex impedance is not quite straight forward.Just an idea :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,221.181464
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/06/circuit-building-with-a-hammer-and-nails/
|
Circuit Building With A Hammer And Nails
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"classic hacks",
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"breadboard",
"circuits"
] |
[Collin Cunningham] over at Make recently wrapped up another edition of “Collin’s Lab” –
this time around, the subject is breadboards
. He starts off by discussing a common solderless breadboard, something you are no doubt familiar with. What you might not know however is how breadboards got their name.
Way back when, before there was a RadioShack in every strip mall across the country, fancy prototyping supplies like your solderless breadboard did not exist. Amateur radio operators would prototype circuits on wooden boards, often using whatever was around as a substrate. Many times, this meant that the family’s cutting board ended up as a makeshift prototyping station.
One popular method of building circuits was to drive small nails into the breadboard, using wire wrapping to connect things together. [Collin] demonstrates this technique in the video, constructing a simple LED flasher circuit.
He says that the process works decently enough, and was kind of fun to do. He does mention however that building any sort of circuit requiring an IC would likely be out of the question.
If you have a few minutes to spare, check out the video embedded below – [Collin’s] take on technology is quirky and entertaining as always.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrG98HJ3Z6w&w=470]
| 34
| 34
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375009",
"author": "Alan Yates",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T22:36:28",
"content": "Copper roofing nails work well, you can solder to them easily.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375010",
"author": "Drew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T22:38:14",
"content": "Why?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375012",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T22:40:54",
"content": "A DIP package could just be stuck down with a mild adhesive, then wire wrapped. Not impossible, but certainly a pain. I’ll stick to “regular” breadboards, thanks.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375013",
"author": "Pierce Nichols",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T22:40:56",
"content": "You could dead-bug an IC on to a board this way, no problem. Copper nails (like they make for wooden boats) would be nice for this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375016",
"author": "TRON",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T22:42:22",
"content": "@drew:Because we can.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375023",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T23:08:15",
"content": "he creeps me out…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375026",
"author": "hunternet93",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T23:20:15",
"content": "“requiring and IC”?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375027",
"author": "WestfW",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T23:32:19",
"content": "I don’t know if I buy this explanation for the origin of the term “breadboard”. I’ve read project books and magazine construction articles that date back to the 60s and older, and I don’t recall ever seeing the “nails in wood” construction method recommended, much less the reuse of an actual “bread” board. Don’t forget that back when components were less common, woodworking (and thus, plain boards) were more common. And I think it would work about as poorly for tube circuitry as it does for ICs.OTOH, I’ve built circuits that ended up looking very similar to the end product using perfboard and special “plug in terminals.”Don’t forget that the early days of electronics were in some ways a lot more friendly to the hobbyist than today…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375037",
"author": "Olivier",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T23:53:27",
"content": "Today, I’ve learnt that some people use a board to cut their bread…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375044",
"author": "Mattster",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T00:11:14",
"content": "2 words Fahnestock Clips . Thats how I built stuff as a kid on a wood board",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375049",
"author": "fotoflojoe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T00:20:36",
"content": "Cunningham’s videos are usually sponsored by Jameco. Who sponsors this one, Crate & Barrel?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375055",
"author": "Reggie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T00:39:16",
"content": "I’ve seen breadboards on 1930s based theatre pipe organs (compton, wurlitzer). Square looped nails driven into a board with cloth!! insulation on the wire soldered to them. In this particular instance it was used for testing the the continuity on the keyboard, drag the grounded crocodile clip down the board to find out which note isn’t playing. Theatre organs that old aren’t big on electronics, a few solenoids, the odd resistor and some lamps. the volume control consists of some pulleys and opening/closing windows in the pipe room.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375061",
"author": "XiuiX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T00:55:40",
"content": "Being an EE noob i found this entertaining",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375073",
"author": "Rhyno",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T01:13:14",
"content": "I can’t believe the comments here that are shocked by the concept… I’m not that old (or am I?) and I took apart a ton of commercial electronics from the 60’s and 70’s as a kid in the 80’s that consisted of wirewrapped circuits – “wirewrapped” because wire wraps around pegs (or nails, in this case), sometimes attached to circuit boards, sometimes not.A fairly common practice in old stereo receivers, for instance, was soldering a wire to a pot and wirewrapping the end that attached to the circuit board on a peg. This was apparently before the use of ribbon cables and connectors was widespread…When I was first getting into electronics, breadboards were rather expensive, and making toner transfers to etch circuit boards was a big deal. There weren’t nearly as many photocopiers around either, and home laser printers were only for the rich. So point to point soldering on perfboard, or some other creative option (nails on boards) were cheap and easy… and we all love cheap and easy. Not only that, but it wasn’t uncommon to find circuits in library books (pre-internet) that detailed this build method. It’s amazing to me that people born after 1985 are not only old enough to bitch about this stuff, but to have completely missed that phase of hobbyist electronics altogether!All of that being said, thank God that it’s 2011 and this stuff is both archaic and impractical now.Rant’s over, please excuse me while I go answer this pager message on the payphone on the corner… using my phone phreaking box, of course…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375077",
"author": "Sean McKenna",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T01:18:56",
"content": "Oh great, now I’ll have to call in Terminix if I want to “debug” a circuit…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375080",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T01:20:34",
"content": "@WestfW – Check this out… tubes and “bread” boards:http://www.sparkmuseum.com/BREADBD.HTMPretty interesting video from Collin. He’s always up to no good ;-) I was just asking a co-worker the other day why they called them breadboards. I never cared to know until the other week… and now I really know. Thanks for the knowledge ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375090",
"author": "DivePeak",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T02:05:48",
"content": "I used this method during the late 70’s to learn basic electronics. My big brother was an EE, and helped me turn circuit diagrams into nails on particle board. One Christmas he made a board for me with lots of components and wires with crocodile clips at each end so I could experiment with changing resistor and capacitor values! Good times…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375099",
"author": "DivePeak",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T02:21:39",
"content": "Oh, and I remember now there were books that had circuit diagrams you could cut out and use straight off – as in the dots where where you stuck nails, and everything was sized 1:1 so you just put the components in where the symbol was drawn, add wire and you were good to go. The facing page was a shopping list for the components you needed – cross off what you already had, take the list to your local electronics store and they’d make up your order.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375155",
"author": "Chambers",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T04:03:49",
"content": "Use finishing nails to make holes for IC’s leads.Put in the leads in place, tap finishing nails back in to holes.so crazy it might work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375156",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T04:04:26",
"content": "That’s a great idea…I’m sure much cheaper than the white plastic ones.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375195",
"author": "rbius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T06:12:59",
"content": "ummm….. hate to sound like an old far but I have to side with Rhyno’s comment. I hope i’m not the only one to remember the “CRAP! I gotta get this finished!” hot-glue/wire-wrap methods when even nails at the last minute weren’t available. cheap,quick and got me out of some tight jams (and fit a few projects into them!)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375196",
"author": "rbius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T06:13:27",
"content": "forgot to add “Get off my lawn!!!”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375210",
"author": "lurker",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T06:46:02",
"content": "I’ll be the next guy to side with Rhyno – Although born in ’87, I’ve been a dumpster-diver since I could ride a bicycle – Lots of old pieces to study and parts to scavenge if you know where (and WHEN) to look……Never built anything on a “nailboard,” though I’ve considered it. Most of my projects have been done on one-sided clad, perfoboard, or ratshack protoboards – There’s something to be said for being able to transfer a layout to a crippled-layout board with pen and paper…-Big fan of the “dead-bug” style so seldomly seen these days. I recently received (well, a few months ago) my tech/general license and have been looking up some practical transceivers that I could build on the cheap – Everything that’s “mainstream” ATM is integrated – I’ve had my eye out on ebay for old AARL manuals that use parts you can actually get at radioshack or find in the trash… I’ve a couple designs to check out, but I WANT to find copies of the books I had in my high-school library (outdated even for the time, but nostalgia…)Dead-Bug ain’t dead – Your average led-flasher circuit or simple 555 design can be built by strategically bending a few pins and insulating properly – No need for a breadboard, protobard, or etching – Great exposure for anyone and great rapid-prototyping possibilities for anyone else – Test, hot-glue, and you’re good to go… Much more to be said, but I think I’ve summed up what I wanted to say…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375227",
"author": "pRoFlT",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T07:45:11",
"content": "I agree with the old wire wrappers.I work in a production environment and we build BON fixtures (bed of nails). And all the wiring inside is wirewrap.At my previous job (8 years back) we built alarm monitoring systems that had i think 8 50 pin wire blocks on the rear of the unit for the customer to wire to. took me 2 hours to wire up the inside of those things. And i had an electric wirewrap gun. Took me 8 hours the first time i built one.wirewrapping is much alive. Maybe not on a real bread board.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375231",
"author": "Slanderer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T07:52:01",
"content": "@WillGlad to know I’m no the only one who is severely creeped out by Collin",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375266",
"author": "kj",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T09:12:11",
"content": "when i was younger i used to have an electronics kit which used springs instead of nails to allow connections to be made. something like this onehttp://www.apogeekits.com/images/electronic_lab_kit_el301.jpgalthough i think mine might have had more experiments to play with.it’s quite possibly the reason why i got into electronics in the first place ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375312",
"author": "Paul Potter",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T10:31:44",
"content": "Superb. Nice little circuit too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375324",
"author": "xtremegamer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T10:49:14",
"content": "could it be possible then to just route out a path of a mm or larger and then fill it with copper or antything other that’s conductive ?it would be like the first pcb ever lol",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375393",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T13:08:24",
"content": "I’ve wanted to do wire-wrapping (I have Kynar wire, too) but I don’t have a tool. The cheapest I can find one is about £8 which seems a bit expensive.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375417",
"author": "theprophet84",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T13:52:33",
"content": "Doesn’t this guy look like Jermaine from Flight of the Concords",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375523",
"author": "IJ Dee-Vo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:47:38",
"content": "@Drew=because@Pedro=then do so, no one is forcing you to do it this way@Will/Slanderer=i think this guy is awesome",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376053",
"author": "Name (required)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T07:49:12",
"content": "I took apart a *computer* that used wirewraps for wiring of the boards. It was Czechoslovakian made computer SMEP, modeled after PDP-11.My friends that worked as computer technicians at the time those PDP-11 clones were maintained in active duty have cool gadget – a wire wrapping gun, that let you wrap thin wires around pegs that were very closely spaced.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376794",
"author": "downtheladder",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T05:14:44",
"content": "Actually a lot of vintage audio equipment clone builders use so called turretboards which are pretty similar to this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "853661",
"author": "kyle",
"timestamp": "2012-11-03T05:09:05",
"content": "could one build a wah wahcircuit on this? just use like a sewing machine pedal for the switch",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,221.258143
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/06/building-an-augmented-reality-display-using-obsolete-technology/
|
Building An Augmented Reality Display Using Obsolete Technology
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"classic hacks"
] |
[
"augmented reality",
"projector"
] |
Augmented reality might be all the rage these days, but when you take a closer look at the technology, you will find that these sorts of optical illusions are not new at all.
Artist [Sebastian Schmieg] was pondering augmented reality for a bit and
decided he could replicate the effect
using old and obsolete technology. His creation, called “81 Points of View”, uses an old Kodak slide projector and an elaborate mechanical setup to simulate the effect.
The slide projector resides on a platform that can be rotated around its center in 81 steps. After each movement, the mechanism swaps out the current slide, selecting the next image depending on which direction the user turns. The resulting effect is similar to the implementations of augmented reality you might see today, with a 3d visualization superimposed on the surrounding room.
The concept dates back all the way to the 1860’s, when [John Pepper] first demonstrated
the technique
. Using mirrors and panes of glass, he was able to project translucent images in front of his audience, which is the same idea [Sebastian] uses in his project. You are likely quite familiar with the effect, if you have ever visited the Haunted Mansion at a Disney theme park.
It’s a neat project, though the resultant augmented reality display is obviously not quite as smooth as you would see from a smartphone. Either way, it is definitely worth checking out. Keep reading to see a video of the project in action.
[vimeo http://vimeo.com/21386967 w=470]
| 10
| 10
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375063",
"author": "Spayum",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T00:59:34",
"content": "I hate to be this kind of person, especially on a website about home-brew tech, but slides and slide projectors are nowhere near obsolete. (Feel free to argue about resolution and crap all you want, that’s now what I’m talking about) Slide film (and film in general) is still the most respected and widely used medium in professional photography. It renders colors and shadows in a way computers can’t match.To be clear, when I say professional photographers, I’m not talking about people who sell prints off their point-and-shoot on Etsy. I’m talking about people who make a living taking pictures.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375067",
"author": "pmac",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T01:09:10",
"content": "@Spayum: not to say you’re wrong as I don’t know every professional photographer but I know a couple with some very expensive DSLRs which they use exclusively.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375103",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T02:32:55",
"content": "And I’ll be the first person to comment on this weird project. Cool concept! Definitely out of the box, but I would have liked to see less artsy video shots and more of what you are seeing in the display.. straight on.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375106",
"author": "GuruBuckaroo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T02:38:44",
"content": "@pmac – Spayum may still be right, he was certainly right as little as 5 years ago. A lot of people are moving to DSLRs as they improve, just because of the ease of use. Slide film – technically “positive” film, not just 35mm slide film – has always had the best color reproduction, though. There’s a reason Kodachrome had a song written about it. Of course, the people that prefer positive film are the kind of people who still use 4×6″ or larger film.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375112",
"author": "r_d",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T02:59:59",
"content": "Neat idea, terrible video.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375126",
"author": "Parcanman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T03:26:15",
"content": "I thought it was funny where as soon as I clicked the link to jump over the bump, there’s a video of a guy using a slide projector, and just below it is an ad for a tiny video projector.I like the idea, but they really should make a better video, maybe one showing it actually working by pointing the camera at the display for a full revolution to show that it actually works rather than just showing it being used.Another thing, I’ll never understand those artsy people who seem to like having vast empty spaces in their buildings. You can call me a hoarder all you want for the way I fill every available space with stuff, but I usually have no problem finding the parts I need without having to go anywhere and spend money.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375151",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T03:58:27",
"content": "That’s pretty dope.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375270",
"author": "frustrated_guy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T09:35:26",
"content": "frustrating video…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375480",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:05:25",
"content": "+1 on the video comments — a bit too long on the “what this does”, and a bit short on the actual effect.For viewer benefit, I would suggest scaling the effect up in size. Use a larger glass canvas. Then in the video, spend a few more seconds on the effect (with the camera back a few feet from the projector… this is what I mean by scaling up).Special effects have diminished novelty if one has to hunch down unnecessarily.Overall, well done. I applaud the maker for repeating this experiment with technology many consider to be obsolete.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "380055",
"author": "Mac",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T11:30:07",
"content": "Most of these vintage projectors have a connector that will advance or reverse the slide tray with a simple relay. That would simplify by avoiding the cam mechanics.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,221.475444
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/06/15-digit-nixie-clock-contains-mostly-non-useful-information/
|
15-digit Nixie Clock Contains Mostly Non-useful Information
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"clock hacks"
] |
[
"ATmega168",
"clock",
"ds1307",
"metronome",
"nixie",
"rtc"
] |
[Jarek Lupinski] is at it again, this time building
a clock using 15 Nixie tubes
. Just look at the time…. wait, how do you read this now? It’s not seconds since the epoch, but an homage to a very expensive New York City art piece. [Jarek] took his inspiration from the
Metronome art installation
in Union Square.
We hadn’t heard of it before and were shocked to learn that this art was commissioned at $4.2 million. It belches steam and confuses passersby with its cryptic fifteen digits. It seems that the eight digits on the left mark the current time – two digits for hours, two for minutes, two for seconds, and the final digit for hundreths of a second. The seven remaining digits count down the time left in the day. So when you watch it, you see the significant digits of the display increasing, and the insignificant half decreasing.
The Nixie version rests snuggly on a 15″x4″ PCB. We’re sure it doesn’t number in the millions, but that couldn’t have been cheap to have manufactured. Each tube has its own driver chip, removing the need for multiplexing. An ATmega168 controls the clock (along with some shift registers to expand the I/O count), reading time from a DS1307 RTC chip. It looks fancy, but where’s the belching smoke on this version?
| 15
| 15
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374964",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T21:06:10",
"content": "I have one for sale at $4.1 million.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374970",
"author": "ColinB",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T21:15:56",
"content": "Too bad the schematic is only in a proprietary format. I was hoping to see how the drivers are all connected to the MCU.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374971",
"author": "Karl",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T21:16:09",
"content": "1) Coat a 10 ohm, 1/8W resistor with several layers of flux.2) Apply 5V power.3) Observe smoke.4) Smell roastred resistor.[My favorite joke on newbie engineers debugging a new circuit]",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374975",
"author": "Jarek Lupinski",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T21:33:52",
"content": "The belching smoke came from the first power supply, which couldn’t handle 180V @ 37.5mA =)ColinB, I will post a capture of the schematic and save it as a .png tonight. I’ll email you when it’s up (not at home computer now)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374979",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T21:45:45",
"content": "what useful information does this post have ? is it news a day now ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374983",
"author": "IJ Dee-Vo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T22:03:51",
"content": "Very useful info thanks for posting(not sarcasm)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375024",
"author": "ColinB",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T23:14:23",
"content": "@Jarek – I would love to see a PNG of your schematic. Thanks! I’ll look for it later.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375203",
"author": "Jarek Lupinski",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T06:29:12",
"content": "PNGs posted, they’re at the bottom with the other files",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375257",
"author": "mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T08:52:32",
"content": "i’d be more inclined to build a scrolling text box….with the words “cryptic numbers here”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375260",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T09:07:24",
"content": "oh, man…btw, where did you get the PCB from? it is pretty long…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375406",
"author": "Jarek Lupinski",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T13:37:09",
"content": "There are a couple of board houses (Advanced Circuits) which sell a predetermined size of PCB, and you can dimension it and fill it with as many circuits as you like. In addition to this, I got 12 completely different circuits on the same board, and it all costs ~100.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375424",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T14:00:31",
"content": "Now if only they could set the Union Square clock to the *correct* time…Btw the ‘steam’ outlet is actually a cleverly designed HVAC vent.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375428",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T14:02:18",
"content": "Nvm, I’m wrong about the steam. Still, for $4.2m I’d at least put a GPS clock in..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375469",
"author": "dredwerker",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T14:51:59",
"content": "I like it. All those nixie tubes I want one. More accurately – I want to build one :)Obviously with all those digits there would be enhancements. Like it saying “boobies” if you look at it upside down :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376108",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T09:49:22",
"content": "‘Non-useful’ eh, I think the word you are looking for is ‘useless’",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,221.422777
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/06/baking-pan-tube-amp-sounds-better-than-youd-expect/
|
Baking Pan Tube Amp Sounds Better Than You’d Expect
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Musical Hacks"
] |
[
"amplifier",
"tube amp",
"vacuum tube"
] |
A few years back, [Gio] decided to try his hand at building a couple of tube amplifiers.
The first amp was more of an experiment
to see how well a DIY single-ended tube amp would sound. The amp is based off the 6T9 design created by Spare Time Gizmos, and incorporates a pair of 6T9 vacuum tubes, hence the name. He wired things up in an afternoon, then got busy drilling holes in a baking pan, where he mounted the amp. Bear with us for a second, it’s not as bad as it sounds. The amp actually looks pretty good mounted in the dark black steel, and this sort of enclosure is far cheaper than most DIY amp enclosures. He says that he was sure to be extra careful in isolating all of the electronic components from the metal chassis.
The second amp
was built to test the performance differences between Pentode-mode and Ultra-Linear mode configurations. While both amps share a substantial amount of the same components, his UL amp benefits from slightly better capacitors and an uprated power supply, not to mention a more conventional case.
Both amps sound great, according to [Gio], but should be paired with efficient speakers for the best experience. He does note that the ultra-linear amp is the better choice, mounting options aside.
[Thanks, Philippe]
[via
RetroThing
]
| 32
| 32
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374910",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T19:37:39",
"content": "Metal enclosures should always be connected to earth.He should have mounted the whole thing on a breadboard. The kitchen kind…It always shocks me how expensive amplifiers are, even DIY ones.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374919",
"author": "hospadar",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T19:57:04",
"content": "Apmlifiers aren’t expensive! I just used a $12 Class-D amp to build a boom box inside a pvc pipe. AND IT SOUNDS DOPE",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374920",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T20:00:01",
"content": "Baking pans and kitchen breadboards are classic tube era DIY.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374923",
"author": "NatureTM",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T20:09:18",
"content": "I think the baking pan looks great. Nice idea.I have a question about tubes in general:It’s my understanding that tubes actually have less accurate sound reproduction compared to cheaper, modern silicon alternatives. Unless you’re listening to something that was produced on tubes, you’ll get more “correct” audio with silicon. Audiophiles just like the “warm” colored distortion tubes produce.Is this true? I would expect audiophiles to try and maximize fidelity.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374929",
"author": "StacyD",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T20:19:34",
"content": "Its because high end audio demands really high quality parts. Tube designs need HV tansformers with dual voltages and parts that can handle the voltage. If making a smaller and low power amp, you can generate the HV using a timer chip and clever circuitry.The point is that most stuff now have gone to amp-on-a-chip systems which has revolutionized portability. However, most only give at best a class AB performance which is plenty for 95% of the speakers out there. Some of us are eco-hating Class-A people willing to make massive heat-sinks and overbuilt power supplies for the sake of not loosing a tiny little bit.It is a nice little amp that would be suitable for smaller speakers. I have a little push-pull amp that does 9W of the old kind of watts (uses 12au7 for phase splitting and independent 12au7 triodes per channel and pentrode power tubes for each channel, cool old piece of kit!). Honestly, building from scratch is too expensive for some of these. you are better to buy busted old ones and then either fix them up or harvest for parts. I know that the 12au7 tubes I use run $40 each NOS and when you have three of those and then two pentrodes, it is nutty. The Chinese tubes are getting to be extraordinary from some makers, but it is very hard to replicate an old bugle boy or GE or electro-harmonix tube in character. I have special output transformers to use these with headphones and the original ones to drive my desk speakers.The Aikido tube kits are probably the best value out there in terms of tube kit ATM. The stuff from china can be either really good or really not. They tend to be built around “diagram” rather than a real world “circuit” (usually you find stuff oscillating and ground loops, etc.).This is a simple kit and easy enough to do PTP wiring which is great for experimenting with tubes. You will soon find that tubes do not have rules, more like guidelines!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374972",
"author": "Max",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T21:23:59",
"content": "@hospadar, That’s a real “Ghetto Blaster”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375069",
"author": "Sanjay",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T01:10:49",
"content": "Steel is a very bad choice for tube audio work – the metal is magnetic and spreads hum from the transformers to the rest of the circuit. It also causes unwanted coupling between the transformers.I didn’t know about this and it made my life hell when I built my first amp. Luckily an old-timer put me on the right track just when I was about to throw away the tubes!Always use non-magnetic materials for this kind of work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375083",
"author": "AnarKIT",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T01:32:32",
"content": "NatureTMTubes tend to introduce 2nd harmonic distortion into the signals, especially when they’re clipping. That harmonic is where the warm sound comes from.Transistorized amplifiers are much easier to get very accurate, however when they distort, it’s harsh 3rd harmonic distortion that sounds good to no one.There are other factors, but it would be correct to say that semiconductor devices can be made to be more accurate, especially over time.This is a very pretty project, I love cases made out of items that wouldn’t normally be used to house electronics.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375093",
"author": "Aussitech",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T02:14:09",
"content": "@Sanjay – “Steel is a very bad choice for tube audio work – the metal is magnetic and spreads hum from the transformers to the rest of the circuit.”And yet another audio myth is born.See also;http://www.ozvalveamps.org/ava100/ava101lamington.htm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375174",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T04:54:11",
"content": "@NatureTMIn regards to “accuracy” (or fidelity) between tubes and solid state question, an ideal amp should simply do “linear” transformation of the input signal (as in Vout = const * Vinput).With transistors (plus some magic called feedback), it’s easier to get closer to above. In other words, when you take a look and transistor curves (wow, that was some scientific lingo there), for each delta (increase) in the input voltage, output gets changes in equal proportions along the input range (deltaVo = const*deltaVin).With tubes, there are significant (?) components that are proportional to the square of the input signal. This generates the second harmonic (double the frequency), but also some other components that corespond to sums and differencies of all frequencies in the signal.If you search HaD for fairly recent post with 555 as a radio transmiter, you’ll find comemnts that describe this effect a bit more.In other words, tubes add more music then you have paid for. In some cases that actually sounds good, but can be called an accurate reproduction.There is more, some sware that the pure principle behind tubes (electrons squizing between metal plates (?), other electrical fields ecting on electrons flying through the tube, unwanted modulation due to the heating filament’s characteristic), but I would not account that for much of what you get (at least in higher class amps).All that “fidelity” problems aside, I still miss a good vinil album when listening to CD :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375178",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T05:04:19",
"content": "@StacyDClass A vs. AB vs. B vs. C is a story of ugly byproducts when you leave the active state of your (mostly output) transistors. To some extent, as far as you go from always on (class A), to mostly closed (C), distortion (non linear) ramps up while efficiency goes up.But, as in some magic, when you get to Class D (only on or off, never in a linear state), you can actualy ripe both benefits – close to ideal linear transfer curve + no losses (well, close to it).It comes with some design problems, but nothing that can’t be resolved fairly easy.In this class, the main problem becomes (kind of) A/D conversion – how to transfer teh analog input signal to stream of on and off’s at your end state, but some smart people have packed all that in a single chip, so you can find 4 channel, 100+ wats, ultra low THD (distortion that you care off) in a chip size of a dime.And you just need a small heat sink, nice rectifier, and solid speakers to rock the house :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375326",
"author": "Nikita",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T11:01:51",
"content": "What is the rated power of these amps in watts?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375377",
"author": "jimmy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T12:48:53",
"content": "Err, why would I expect it to sound bad?The baking pan idea isn’t new. It’s at least as effective as some commercial chassis.FYI, some designers claim to be able to hear the difference between steel and aluminum chassis. MAYBE there’s some subtle nuance, but I doubt it. Steel was the standard for many years; it works fine…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375431",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T14:05:06",
"content": "@NatureTM Audiophiles are insane. It is as simple as that. They buy CD demagnetizers and speaker cables made from virgin gold that is only mined at the equator so that is has the least paramagnetic distorsion. If you think monster cables are expensive you should take a look at what audiophiles pay for super hi fi digital cables.However this project is actually very cool. Looks great and is well made. Kind of like someone building a prefect replica of a WACO biplane.Oh and as to the quality of the sound? I bet it sounds great. Of course that will depend a lot on your source and your speakers.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375583",
"author": "NatureTM",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:18:58",
"content": "Thanks for the responses!Part of me still wants to ask, if these harmonics sound better, shouldn’t the producers just run their music through tube modeling software or actual tubes during production? I have a feeling that will boil down to a matter of taste or opinion, however. I guess if I really want to know what’s up, I’ll need to listen to a side-by-side comparison of tubes vs transistors someday.@lwatcdr specifically on hi-fi digital cables:I hate when stores like Best Buy try to sell people really really expensive digital cables. Are the 0’s and 1’s really going to show up any different on the decoder? It’s really taking advantage of people’s ignorance.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375606",
"author": "StacyD",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:52:28",
"content": "I will be the first to say that some audiophiles really are so serious it can kill. Most do not have any sort of electrical skill or math/science. The point is audiophile stuff is about art more than science. You want the distortion low, high fidelity/detail, not loss of certain ranges, but that is the easy stuff. The art of matching equipment (and impedances), presentation, emphasis, color, tone and all the other junk is the hard part. The 32-bit audio DAC’s are a bit of a scam though and it is the latest thing raging through the audio crowd.Truth is that there are some things lost in 16-bit encoding (detail and sound wise that the human ear can hear and feel). 24 bit covers all of those bases and then some, beyond what we can hear or feel. Plus, when you start talking about top chips from Analog Devices, Cirrus Logic, and Wolfson there really isn’t much to loose from the DAC. You do need to worry about getting good clocks and timings more than X-number of bits. It does not matter how much resolution you have if the bits are flipped or just wrong because of your crazy baud rate and cheap clocks/crystals(big culprit of many USB to I2S converters).I know I am nuts, but at least I know it and do not take myself seriously. If it sounds better, than it is better. They try to make science out of art and there is only so much of that which can be done!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375726",
"author": "Space",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:16:45",
"content": "@NatureTM Tube audio is.. specific. An constructor with limited skill might crate an amplifier with excellent quality of sound using minimal number of parts. That makes it very attractive for DIY.Tube audio amplifiers, especially single ended A class amplifiers sound much better when used at low power than any semiconductor based technology regardless of its output stage operating class. That is mostly because single ended A class tube amps like this one have no crossover region distortion. Lack of crossover distortion makes sound rich in details even when listened on low power.Yes, audio producers like tube preamplifiers, mostly because their low noise at lower frequencies, high input impedance, excellent linearity and headroom.The rest of it: wooden knobs, gold plated connectors, CD demagnetizers, non-metallic wires, Wookiee fur enchanted bass traps are part of audiophile folklore.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375759",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T21:03:37",
"content": "@Space,Sound quality and a “sound better” should not confused.“Tube audio” might be more pleasing, but if you compare apples for apples (like in vacuum apples with silicon apples), especially if you compare the same class of devices (as in high end vs high end, or low vs. low), tubes do not have any technical advantages.Let’s compare what you have mentioned:– minimal part numbers:* silicon based for sure have simpler (and less dangerous power supply). And cheaper.* (some) integrated audio amps really don’t require almost any components. And even include all kinds of protection. Tube amps don’t* the only advantage with tubes is the coolness factor + no need for PCB :)– cross over distortions* either silicon or tube class A is class A – work point is in the middle of the linear region, so now crossover distortions on either.* what makes silicon “more accurate” is that transfer curve for transistor is more linear then the equivalent one for tube. And that non’linearity with tubes actually makes them “sound better” – they “color” the sound.– “rich in details even when listened on low power” – I can only guess that what you meant here is the old fashioned effect of “loudness button” – intentional distortion of the transfer curve that compensates for the nonlinear characteristic of human ear at low volumes. Tube possibly does something similar (like enhances low frequency range more) that sounds “richer”. Or not. But anyway, decibel for decibel, Hertz for Hertz, especially at low volumes, silicon is more linear (accurate) then tube.-“low noise at lower frequencies” is also not an accurate statement. Dollar for dollar, tube is noisier then transistor.-“higher input impedance” is also a myth. If you really desire high impedance, go FET or MOSFET. But the driving principle is to MATCH impedance of your source and your preamp. Most sources are not high impedance devices, even the ones that are can be easily matched with silicon based components-“excellent linearity” – easier/cheaper with silicon-the “headroom” – here I have to admit, overloading the tube produces more pleasant results. Even though I would not call that a head room, but once you hit the silicon’s boundaries, resulting clipping creates abundance of 3rd harmonics that sound “ugly” and “cold”. In such cases, tube produces much more 2nd and 4th order components that give that nice, warm, and fuzzy feeling. But on the other side, I do NOT want my amp to go in overdrive ever :)The last one is why actually rock music owns thanks to tubes. When you hit that guitar hard, you don’t want your sound to sound harsh, and that’s where silicon fails miserably.And that’s why audio studios (engineers) prefer tube preamps – they can handle wider range without killing the mood. But if you can keep all your inputs under control (as in you know what to expect so you bring appropriate tools of the trade), transistor rules (as in keeps the original signal accurately preserved)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375783",
"author": "DarkFader",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T21:50:22",
"content": "those ferrite beads on the cable actually do something?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375830",
"author": "Ken",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T23:19:48",
"content": "Space is plainly wrong in asserting that great class A tube amps sound better than any transistor amp. Bob Carver proved this in the 1980s in a series of challenges to major audiophile publications. The audiophile press was forced to admit that their favorite tubes amps were indistinguishable from the solid state models carver designed (and matched to those tube amps) in blind listening sessions.Carver even sold an amp which sounded just like the highly regarded (and very expensive) Mark Levinson ML-2. Carver’s amp offered ten times the power at one tenth the cost, or thereabouts.That doesn’t mean *your* transistor amp will sound just like a tube amp. Only that transistors can definitely get the job done.There is one obvious example of where tubes really shine, and indeed are used in recordings to get that fat warm sound: Electric guitar amplifiers. Overdriven tube amps with saggy power supplies and nonlinear speakers ROCK!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375855",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T00:07:03",
"content": "@NatureTM BestBuy? Monster? Hah they are value brands compared to what some audiophiles pay Tryhttp://www.musicdirect.com/category/43130 dollars for an HDMI cable. I am sure I could find worse if I spent the time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375957",
"author": "Aussitech",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T04:14:56",
"content": "@DarkFader – “those ferrite beads on the cable actually do something?”They are intended to prevent RF pickup from getting into the preamp and being rectified/detected, ‘tho they are more normally applied to the signal live within the chassis. (not Kozmo-Fi but real audio engineering)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376156",
"author": "Garbz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T12:13:20",
"content": "@lwatcdr You didn’t try very hard either clearly, get “Spread Spectrum Technology” in your cabling here:http://www.noiseaddicts.com/2008/11/most-expensive-speaker-cable-world-audioquest-audiophile/$21000 for 3m",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376363",
"author": "Space",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:35:36",
"content": "@Ken Hi-Fi died in mid 80s. Low THD designs were replaced by models advertised in audiophile press as better. Most of them were cheap units using single hybrid chip as output stage. Some of those models can be found in working conditions even today. Sound of such units is nothing to be proud of.@MiroslavI’d like you to compare any silicon apple with no negative feedback with any vacuum apple with no negative feedback.– minimal part numbers:* power supply units are almost the same.* unlike wimpy silicon tech vacuum tubes are resilient: they need fuse, nothing more.* (many) vacuum tube power amps have less parts* chassis is necessity: tubes on pcb pick up too much vibrations (ask around for Peavey Classic 30)– cross over distortions:* Single ended A class vacuum tube power amplifiers HAVE NO CROSSOVER DISTORTION. THD levels given for such amplifiers are at single % digits levels with no feedback loop at full output power (worst case). That speaks MUCH about linearity of vacuum tubes.* “loudness button”? On tube amps? louder == better? rly? All known constructions with semiconductors have crappy THD levels at low volume because of crossover distortion.– ”low noise at lower frequencies”my bad. I meant low I/F corner. Better?– ”higher input impedance”* FET = useful* MOSFET = overrated religious nonsense in audio. Input impedance of MOSFET: too much input capacitance, thousands times more than any vacuum tube.* impedance matching – useful but usually impedance of sink must be 5 to 10 times greater than of the source. <- disclaimer: in audio only.– ”excellent linearity”* meant superior compared to semiconductor systems with no negative feedback loop.– \"here I have to admit, overloading the tube produces more pleasant results\"* because tubes have no saturation and related recovery effects unlike semiconductors. Irrelevant to headroom.– \" ..and that’s where silicon fails miserably.\"* not all silicon. Transistor based guitar amps are usually made to be cheap, not to sound good.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376483",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:08:09",
"content": "@Space said:“…silicon apple with no negative feedback with any vacuum apple with no negative feedback.”But why would I compare two technologies at the lowest level possible? I never said that single transistor beats pentode. I said that dollar for dollar, silicon beats vacuum :)“power supply units are almost the same”No they are not. Tubes require higher voltage, often dangerous. Watt for watt (output), tubes often require more juice.“unlike wimpy silicon tech vacuum tubes are resilient: they need fuse, nothing more”Unlike wimpy tubes, not so modern audio amp ICs have internal protection and do NOT require fuse :)“chassis is necessity: tubes on pcb pick up too much vibrations (ask around for Peavey Classic 30)”With silicon, no need for chassis. You can even skip the PCB if one insists.“Single ended A class vacuum tube power amplifiers HAVE NO CROSSOVER DISTORTION”And I never said that they do. But that’s the same with transistors in A class. I only said that tubes are less linear then transistors. Even without the feedback.“THD levels given for such amplifiers are at single % digits levels with no feedback loop at full output power (worst case). That speaks MUCH about linearity of vacuum tubes.”Do you really call a single digit THD a success? A dollar worth audio ICs can easily beat that. I would not them drive at full power, but would spend another buck, buy a bigger one, run it at the half power. And all that without the fuse that tube requires :)““loudness button”? On tube amps?”I misspoke – what I wanted to say is that tube possibly inserts distortion that has effect like “loudness” – like in “due to imperfection of a human ear, “an ideal” low volume reproductions sound worst then mid/hi volume, but if you “tweak” the original, low can sound better”“louder == better? rly?”Yes. Ear has nonlinear frequency curve at different volumes. Actual, the curve is different at different volumes.“All known constructions with semiconductors have crappy THD levels at low volume because of crossover distortion.”And then you’ve got your facts confused. Cross over distortion happens ONLY when you leave the linear region, and that would be the same if you drive a tubes in class B. If you run your transistor in class A, and your tube in class A, neither one would have cross over distortion.Then again, I have never compared transistor and tube, but if you insist, even though either class A is free of cross over byproducts, tubes (especially triodes) suffer from nonlinear distortion that causes THD (non linear means that the transfer curve has products equal to ^2 (power 2), ^3, etc, that cause not only harmonics, but other byproducts that are + and – of involved frequencies).And that’s what actually makes tube amp sound better – it’s “more colorful”, and “deeper”, and “spatial” (whatever you might consider that being), but it’s simply distortion.Good silicon based are “clean”, “sterile”, “hollow” – all to the extent that the original was having those same attributes (as in fidelity in reproduction).“I meant low I/F corner. Better?”Sorry, not sure what that might be.“MOSFET = overrated religious nonsense in audio.”Up to now, our discussion was trying to use technical merits. You are now going where I don’t want to go. Some will say the same for tube followers, I don;t think that’s a valid statement in a technical discussion. Put some facts out, and I’ll comment. Don’t have any facts to say if tubes are more or less “overrated religious nonsense” then MOSFET, can only take your word for it.“too much input capacitance, thousands times more than any vacuum tube.”Great! Back on technical merits. Just for fun, I picked the firs “small signal MOSFET” that google has offered. BS170. Input capacitance at 1MHz is 60pF. Even (much) less at lower frequencies. Hope you can provide the same for your tube of choice, but regardless, even if you find one that’s 60fF (femto, 1000 times less then pico), 60pF so small in audio circuits that it does not matter at all. And if it does, just for fun, I’d switch to some of HF MOSFETs (BF981 comes to mind) with under 3pF.“useful but usually impedance of sink must be 5 to 10 times greater than of the source. <- disclaimer: in audio only.\"Agree, some very special cases come to mind, but you are right. Still, any decent FET, MOSFET transistor or el chipo OpAmp, can match any source that comes to mind.\"- ”excellent linearity”* meant superior compared to semiconductor systems with no negative feedback loop.\"And tubes are even better when you compare them with germanium transistor. Not to say diodes (?!?). As I said, I have never said transistor is better then penthode. And I have never said it's not. Just have never compared them in that way.\"- \"here I have to admit, overloading the tube produces more pleasant results\"* because tubes have no saturation and related recovery effects unlike semiconductors. Irrelevant to headroom.\"Overloading means putting more load then supposed to. Or running component out of their linear range. If you say that tubes can not be run out of the linear range, we can readdress this one, as I strongly disagree (just for a hack, how do you call trying to get 100W out of tube amp designed to do 1W, and not getting more then 1.5W or so?).Also, the \"saturation\" – if what you have meant is characteristic that you find in transistor datasheets (Ic < hFE * Ib range, where Uce gets stuck at 0.2V or so), you have the same with tubes. If all that you wanted to say is that tube recovers faster, I have to ask, why in good mind would you ever need to run component in saturation. Not happy with the 5W amp? Why didn't you get 10W one? Like to run your amp to the max, cool, but that's what I'm saying – distorted signal leaving the tube amp is more pleasant then distorted leaving silicon, but still distorted.Now, let's just imagine that this is used at all steps – artist records his voice under the above conditions (and it sounds great, even better with guitar, I've been on many rock concerts). Then you take that to studio, run through another great tube amp run at it's max and over, put on the vinyl (good old times), then you take it home and run through another similar setup. Do you think you would even guess who's singing?New repeat the same with \"oversized\" (never running over designed limits) solid state amps. I bet you'll be able to say who's singing if you know the artist :)\"- \" ..and that’s where silicon fails miserably.\"* not all silicon. Transistor based guitar amps are usually made to be cheap, not to sound good.\"We just stepped into bizzaro world – you sing praises to silicon, and I oppose :)By definition (by design), silicon transistors have an ugly habit to over produce 3rd harmonic, and if one does not intentionally adds some \"measures\" to artificially add more of 2nd harmonics, regardless of how cheap of expensive you go, it sounds bad.So, to add to my comparison criteria, in addition to not limiting myself to a single transistor, in all above I assumed that we are using semi conductor based audio amplifier, designed with linearity in mind, so that excludes all \"good sounding, cheap, guitar amps\". By the way, those usually rely on well matched speakers, that are no good for anything else.Would be glad to continue this nice discussion, but I still think that dollar for dollar, pound for pound, W for W, vacuum tube based amp cant beat solid state based one if fidelity (accuracy) is criteria.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376487",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T20:17:50",
"content": "@HaDIs there a contest or prize for the longest reply?[Space] and me might win it with a few more iterations :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376603",
"author": "Ken",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T23:58:44",
"content": "Space: Check out this reprint about Carver’s challenge [http://www.stereophile.com/content/carver-challenge]. You might learn something. Wikipedia claims the reference amp was a Conrad-Johnson Premier 5, which is about as far from the kind of “single hybrid chip output” equipment you referred to as it gets.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376811",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T06:18:53",
"content": "@KenThat was a good reading, can’t say a real eye opener as I used to tweek some of parameters to achieve desired effects.Have to admit, that was SO MUCH less scientific and technical, that I should not be comparing with what Carver did at all :)Extent was to make solid state guitar amp sound more like tube ones. And that was before I “disovered” the secret recipee of effect that otherwise speaker can do :)So, to me, it was more like adding sound efects to otherwise nice transfer function, but to my “customers” it was making it “sound real” :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377068",
"author": "Space",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T16:44:36",
"content": "@Ken 700$ is big pile of money for an amplifier, even bigger if the factory is purchasing parts. It is contest designed to fit the needs, not to prove anything. I would like mr Bob to make another challenge, this time with the speakers, and to try to fit in the same pile of money.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377098",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T17:19:14",
"content": "@KenThe test was performed almost 30 years ago. $700 was even more then today, but also, electronic components were more expensive too. And this was not a mass market amp made somewhere in China.On the other side, comparison was with another amp that was probably 15 times more expensive (they are 5-15k today, I can only guess they were pricey then too).And the contest actually was intended to prove that that amp can be retrofitted to sound identical to the expensive one (in other words, to prove that medium priced solid state can sound like high priced tube amp), so not the need, but the bragging rights.Knowing some sworn audiophiles (read deep pocket audio enthusiasts), I’m sure that they would never buy equally sounding “cheep” amp, when there are 10kUS$ “equivalents” available. A simple justification, why would they have an amp cheaper then cables they use to connect it to speakers :)In regards to comparison of speakers, probably some other HaD’s article, this discussion was solid state vs. vaccum :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377210",
"author": "Space",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T19:01:51",
"content": "@Miroslav: I see intention to ward away any technical explanation or reference.Related to my post on high input impedances: BS170, an switching low power MOSFET has input capacitance like some kilowatt output RF tetrode.BF981 is in 3pF range, like so many 2-5W triodes. However, BF981 is mixing dual gate MOSFET, so it should be compared to mixing heptodes. Mixing vacuum tubes have input capacitances usually less than 0.1pF. So I guess there is no really high input impedance with silicon unless tricks are used. Same tricks can be used with tubes.– “Do you really call a single digit THD a success?”I have mentioned amplifiers with no negative feedback loop in order to inform you on controversial method of amplifier construction often used in tube amplifiers. It yields THD in single digits. This shows how linear vacuum tubes are.All amplifiers made with transistors (BJT, FET, MOSFET) are using negative feedback loops to improve linearity and extend frequency response because they have to as they all are extremely nonlinear. Without negative feedback loop the distortion levels in silicone (and germanium) amplifiers would be hard to tolerate.About A class operation and crossover distortion. A class allows both parts of push-pull configuration to work all the time. This in turn makes crossover transition (push to pull and reverse) smoother. Smoother transition makes less choppy negative feedback correction signal. The result is smooth correction signal and less (odd) harmonic distortion in signal.Sometimes all the benefits of A class output stages are negated by cheap power supply unit and intermodulation distortion caused by ripple noise.The worst of all is the new holy grail in audio the D class. I’m not saying D class is bad, it’s the ripple noise form chopper PSUs. The combination of D class and chopper PSUs makes more intermodulation noise than I can tolerate.low I/F corner – I wanted to be technical. It is specific value that represents noise current input in amplifiers at lower end of frequency response. Vacuum tubes have the lowest I/F corner noise. FET transistors are near, bipolar junction transistors are following, and the MOSFET transistors are at the last place.I’ll say one more time: saturation is unrelated to headroom. Tube preamps have insane headroom because they use high supply voltage. In a recording studio that might be an advantage. Tubes in preamplifier might have acceptable THD even without negative feedback loop.The bizzaro world..The “warm” sound of tube preamplifiers is caused by intentional equalization in middle and low part of audio spectrum. It is not something that tubes do by design. Germanium transistors sound even warmer, yet noone uses them. That might be because the audiophiles don’t know that there are germanium transistors like AF139 with *gold* plated leads :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377274",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T21:15:11",
"content": "@Space,I admit, I was just being lazy and picked up the first MOSFET that popped up. But I really don’t think it’s relevant (as I said, you pick ANY small signal MOSFET you want, and ANY tube you wish, show that tube has 1000 times smaller input capacitance, and then show me why do you think MOSFET’s capacitance is too big for ANY audio application.)Just a side note, MOSFETs usually go to the output, FETs are on the input side, but that’s another discussion, here we are just comparing capacitance (don;t even remember why anymore).You are back to bare bones, no tricks (negative feed back, etc.) amps. Why would anyone take that as a design principle avoids me.Back to class A. By the (very old) definition, class A is not a push pull. AB (or let’s say B) uses push pull. Class A is when you put your “no signal” at the middle of the linear curve of a single component.And as in “cheap PSU”, let’s limit the scope to the same type/quality of PSU.And I agree that chopper PSU usually don’t jive well in audio applications. I’ve seen some designs where chopper acts as a “pre-stage” for old fashioned linear stabilizer that takes care of HF ripple.Now I see, I/F is actually 1/F corner. Why would I care if tube has it better (lower) if silicon gets it sufficiently low. Do you have any numbers to compare, or to show that silicon has it unacceptable high?Have I ever said saturation = headroom? For me, simply said, headroom is how more watts can you get after you hit the designed limit. And I just over design the amp.You said “use high supply voltage”, but then you don’t drive 4 ohm speaker directly, right. And then HV supply does not quite translate to HV delivered to speakers. Would not make much sense.And you are back to “no negative loop”, but why would I NOT use it?If the goal is to have fidelity (accuracy), then any intentionality (additional components that you can put with solid state), or unintentional (by devices nature) “equalization” equals to distortion (difference between input and output that’s not attributed to linear amplification (for example freq response, phase shift, noise, etc.).And if that “equalization” is desirable, I do admit it sound better done by tubes.Mentioning germanium, there is a good reason it’s not used anymore, other then when you do want to introduce “equalization” (sic) – I would never put silicon transistor for a good guitar effect, germanium ruleZ.So, back to original “scope” of our discussion:“..dollar for dollar, pound for pound, W for W, vacuum tube based amp can’t beat solid state based one if fidelity (accuracy) is criteria.”For any other criteria, define it, I might agree.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,221.373167
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/07/a-breakout-board-for-your-android-phone/
|
A Breakout Board For Your Android Phone
|
Brian Benchoff
|
[
"Android Hacks",
"Cellphone Hacks",
"Phone Hacks"
] |
[
"android",
"sparkfun"
] |
[sparkfun] announced a
new board
called the IOIO (pronounced “yo-yo”) this week that allows communication from your Android devices to your upcoming projects.
The board hasn’t been released yet; [sparkfun] is still pulling together documentation and waiting on their first production run. We do know that the board contains a PIC24F MCU, and will give your phone analog input, and Digital I/O, PWM, I2C, SPI, and UART control. Communication with the board is over the USB port on your phone.
The brilliant thing about this board is that an external programmer isn’t required. Everything you connect to this board can be controlled from within Android apps. We covered Android development
in a hackaday tutorial series
before, so now it’s possible to put these skills to give your projects a touch screen, internet and bluetooth connections, a camera, or your phone’s accelerometers. Very slick.
Video of some basic functions demonstrating what possible with this board after the jump, but feel free to comment and tell us what you’d like to see done with this board.
| 50
| 48
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375714",
"author": "dbear",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:06:16",
"content": "Way cool. Any idea on price yet?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375716",
"author": "cde",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:09:01",
"content": "50 bucks for no case, no power supply, questionable support on any given phone or OS.IMHO, pricing it at 20~25 would be ideal. At this point, it’s just too expensive.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375717",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:09:08",
"content": "I think you forgot to embed the video.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375729",
"author": "Robert Ely",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:18:41",
"content": "Spark fun lists it as : $49.95The page he linked to in the article ….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375730",
"author": "biozz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:18:46",
"content": "FINALLY … as soon as more support and work is done im jumping on this!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375735",
"author": "Professor P",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:26:57",
"content": "Ioio pronounced as yo-yo?! No, it’s pronounced eye-oh-eye-oh. If you want to call it yo-yo, it’s spelt y-o-y-o",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375736",
"author": "Luke",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:30:35",
"content": "That is both excellent and fine. I’m looking forward to seeing what uses people come up with for it. Android aside I’d love a simple I/B board like that just for desktop use.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375749",
"author": "dpraetorius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:38:54",
"content": "FINALLY! Ever since I first got an Android phone, the only thing going through my mind was how awesome of a mobile robotics platform it could make. Wifi, bluetooth, cell radio, GPS, accelerometer, and a camera, among other stuff, all with some hefty processing power and a good SDK? All they needed was a way of communicating with H-bridges or motor drivers and perhaps a few more sensors, and it would be fantastic.High five, Sparkfun. Now to just take your board layout and make my own custom board!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375751",
"author": "Colecago",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:47:33",
"content": "Wish it was an avr or arm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375764",
"author": "cfox10",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T21:09:21",
"content": "Front facing camera for droids that don’t have one?Mass market that bad boy and you’ll make some decent money. ;)Until they come out with it on all Android phones.Does this mean other devices could potentially use the USB port?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375772",
"author": "confus",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T21:30:17",
"content": "Where’s the vid, Hackaday?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375773",
"author": "Brennan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T21:31:03",
"content": "@Professor PAnd if you want to spell spelled, it’s spelled ‘spelled’. Don’t be so pedantic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375787",
"author": "remicles",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T21:56:16",
"content": "Brennen, either is correct. In any case, ‘IOIO’ is clearly read ‘ten’.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375796",
"author": "BadWolf",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T22:12:31",
"content": "As an avid android user,I say that1-50$ is quite high.2-Add a battery pack and a user-friendly way to piggy back this on my Galaxy S and we got a deal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375803",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T22:17:52",
"content": "FYI to everyone, this device acts as a USB host, so your phone just thinks its plugged into a PC. Great idea, but I just wanted to point that out because it doesn’t require USB hosting on the phone, something which is less common and usually requires some phone hacking. But anyway, the fact that this works doesn’t mean other peripherals will work with the phone!Also, you can always use the Sparkfun Bluetooth serial port devices for $20 – I recently set something up that way.http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10253The Android SDK has a “bluetooth chat” application that works with those modules with just one line changed. The UUID line that looks similar to this needs to be changed to:private static final UUID MY_UUID = UUID.fromString(“00001101-0000-1000-8000-00805F9B34FB”);More info;http://stackoverflow.com/questions/1953888/bluetooth-rfcomm-sdp-connection-to-a-rs232-adapter-in-androidIt works great!-Taylor",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375809",
"author": "truthspew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T22:47:20",
"content": "Very cool. Just got my first Android phone day before yesterday.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375813",
"author": "SirSpellALot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T22:51:13",
"content": "@BrennanActually ‘spelt’ is correct British English.Read this article, it might open your American eyes a bit.http://grammartips.homestead.com/british.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375821",
"author": "Joe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T23:07:35",
"content": "“yo-yo” != ioioMy name is Joe (pronounced “moe”)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375822",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T23:08:21",
"content": "50 dollars?!? My Android phone cost 3 of these.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375823",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T23:09:07",
"content": "Yawn…when is the bluetooth version coming out?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375850",
"author": "spiritplumber",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T23:55:55",
"content": "I don’t have anything nice to say, so I shall not say anything. Hackaday already posted the DYI version for this… twice, one from inopia and one from me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375851",
"author": "Ytai",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T23:58:44",
"content": "Some more info here:http://ytai-mer.blogspot.com/2011/04/meet-ioio-io-for-android.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375854",
"author": "Lol",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T00:06:44",
"content": "@Brennan: “Spelled” or “spelt”, both are correct.Now who’s shallow and pedantic?Yet another overpriced product by sparkfun.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375856",
"author": "spiritplumber",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T00:07:38",
"content": "I’ll sell my board (that does the same job, plus it only uses about half the microcontroller so you can still drive servos or add serial ports etc.) for $30 to anyone who emails me. It will take a week to be delivered and you will pay after you get it and confirm that it works.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375882",
"author": "spiritplumber",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T01:13:09",
"content": "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcR0ZG_7YC8&feature=player_embeddedBy the way — here’s the video ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375915",
"author": "San Diego",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T02:16:34",
"content": "@Professor P –Default English Vowel sounds:ah eh eeh oh ooioio = eeh-o eeh-onot yoyo, not eye-oh-eye-oh",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375920",
"author": "anti-fanboi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T02:20:10",
"content": "@Colecago: pretty sure Sparkfun sells “clues” so you’re laughing!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375946",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T03:30:42",
"content": "reverse it, then you got the OI OImy phone(samsung transform) has a front facing cam…its useless as NOTHING uses itif this wasnt $50 i’d get 1(maybe haha) but it does need a micro usb IN port for at minimum usb charging including passthrough, maybe firmware upgrade as well as a li-po/liion to double your battery life",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375958",
"author": "Rachel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T04:15:57",
"content": "So…it’s an arduino. This is definitely not a breakout board, because it’s not tapping into the phone’s native IO. The only real feature is the USB host, but even this can be programmed into an arduino. It’s certainly not analogue input either; it’s sampled by the PIC’s ADC, which is likely inferior to the phone’s native ADC.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375979",
"author": "Nick Short",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T05:31:57",
"content": "@San DiegoI think the idea is that if you say it fast enough, it sounds like yo-yo.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "376127",
"author": "NotJustEnglish",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T10:53:58",
"content": "Anyone know any language besides English? “io” is Italian for “I”. It is often pronounced like “yo”, very similar to Spanish word for “I”.",
"parent_id": "375979",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "689742",
"author": "NancyL",
"timestamp": "2012-06-27T20:24:36",
"content": "Oy vey.",
"parent_id": "376127",
"depth": 3,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "375996",
"author": "Inopia",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T05:52:11",
"content": "This board seems to use ADB, which is a really nice and robust way to do two-way communication between the phone and an MCU. BlueTooth really sucks for robust communication such as in embedded setups or robotics, and USB also allows you to power your phone over vbus.Of course this was all done before, but kudos to Ytai and SparkFun for bringing it to the masses.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376027",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T06:52:59",
"content": "whether it is eeh-o-eeh-o or yoyo or dada, it sure is a cool idea and I like it! bit pricey though, but we can always make our PCBs and solder components.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376035",
"author": "Necromant",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T07:10:10",
"content": "Emmm… Hm… Well, I’ll better be off with a homebrew module using a wireless bt-uart with DTR to reset wired and a homebrew board with a bootloader that allows flashing via uart.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376036",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T07:11:04",
"content": "@spiritplumber I don’t see anything on your site about peripherals acting as usb hosts to connect to Android phones. I don’t see anything about DIY either, everything has a price tag. Though I might have missed it, the site isn’t the easiest to navigate. Are you referring to the SerialDroid? I don’t see how that compares to the IOIO.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376054",
"author": "holly_smoke",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T07:49:16",
"content": "Sorry remicles, IOIO I read as A :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376097",
"author": "spiritplumber",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T09:20:03",
"content": "http://www.robots-everywhere.com/re_wiki/sorry, all the software and schematics (and BOM if I ever made one) is here :) so yes, all my stuff is open/free in that sense.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376405",
"author": "Ulisse",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T19:07:59",
"content": "ahah in italian io-io is correctly spoken like “yo-yo” :) in anyway i think it is a powerfull alternative instead of soldering break-out pins on the GPIOs provided by the CPU of the phone :DWith good APIs, i think this board can achieve an equivalent popularity like the arduino-board.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376604",
"author": "remicles",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T23:58:49",
"content": "holly_smoke: Good point. Depends on how you read ‘0xA’ or ‘012’. ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376612",
"author": "David",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T00:17:48",
"content": "Firstly, I’d allow ioio to be said as yo yo (like io in tion words). Kind of not right but it’s okay and I like that.Mainly though, this kind of thing is awesome as it unlocks the powers of something already created so that you can do with it as you please.There are so many people having to reinvent the wheel in order to create something impressive. This makes it possible for people to create something amazing (and already familiar) without having to shell out for too much expensive hardware.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376644",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T02:14:15",
"content": "Sparkfun links to the creator’s bloghttp://ytai-mer.blogspot.com/2011/04/meet-ioio-io-for-android.html, this info was pulled from there:When asked if it was based on the ADB MicroBridge project, “No, I did my own implementation as this was about 8 months ago, and I believe MicroBridge had not been published at the time.Since then, we’ve done tons of stuff above this layer in order to really provide good, high level experience, OTA upgrades, etc. That is the reason for the delay in publication.”A snippet from an app used to control a servo on pin 12 with a pot on pin 40:ioio.waitForConnect();AnalogInput input = ioio.openAnalogInput(40);PwmOutput pwmOutput = ioio.openPwmOutput(12, 100); // 100Hzwhile (true) {float reading = input.read();pwmOutput.setPulseWidth(1000 + Math.round(1000 * reading));sleep(10);}The blog has a ton more info, and videos.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376984",
"author": "makomk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T11:58:41",
"content": "Rachel: USB host support can’t be programmed into the Arduino. You need a $40 Arduino shield, which is nearly as much as the price of this entire board. Once you take into account the cost of the Arduino, the fact that this is apparently far better-equipped in terms of I/O options, the much better power supply on the IOIO… this looks like a far superior option in all respects.The Arduino just isn’t very good if you need USB host support or full-speed USB.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377204",
"author": "pRtkL xLr8r",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T18:47:24",
"content": "Half the comments on here are about the name alone? Really???",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377372",
"author": "Miller",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T00:31:46",
"content": "My suggestion – this and a high quality audio shield with a Burr-Brown 2-channel DAC on top. My EVO Shift 4g has this terrible clicking and popping sound when I use Pandora and it’s because of the audio chip on the phone. Hopefully an app can be written for this to bypass audio to the USB port.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377673",
"author": "Soul_Est",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T16:17:08",
"content": "@spiritplumberDeveloping software for an Android phone to control the IOIO doesn’t require the phone to be rooted. This is quite important as newer Android devices are getting harder to permanently root than their predecessors (ie: Desire HD).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378475",
"author": "Inopia",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T21:01:26",
"content": "@makomk: SF sells USB host shields for $25. Their cheapest Arduino plus this shield is $45, which is still $5 less than the IOIO.Selling a breakout board for a $5 chip at $50 is just excessive, if you ask me. On the other hand, if it ‘just works’ it might be worth the money, and since it’s open source, people will probably produce cheap knock-offs in due time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378734",
"author": "makomk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T10:38:54",
"content": "Inopia: ah, the (original?) non-Sparkfun version of the USB host shield is rather more expensive. Also, do bear in mind that you need to buy a seperate USB-to-TTL cable for programming the cheap Sparkfun Arduinos unless you have one lying around.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "391398",
"author": "jswanson",
"timestamp": "2011-05-07T21:30:04",
"content": "My IOIO was on my doorstep when I got home from work…got Eclipse / ADK / Droid 2 running on my Ubuntu laptop this morning. So far, just the example sketch from SparkFun, but this thing has a ton of potential. So excited….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "397163",
"author": "Tweeks",
"timestamp": "2011-05-23T13:55:17",
"content": "PIC? Really?Why isn’t this also an AtMel based Arduino.. or just clone the Arduino/AtMel based Teensy?http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/Tweeks",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,221.897092
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/07/sticky-sweet-animatronic-peep-show/
|
Sticky Sweet Animatronic Peep Show
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"LED Hacks",
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"arduino",
"leds",
"peeps"
] |
With Easter quickly approaching, [Kyle] decided to finally build a project that is as tasty as it is wrong.
Behold, the
Animatronic “Peep” show!
Using nearly a dozen marshmallow Peeps, he constructed a stage for his “performers” and a seating area for their “clients”. The structure was built mostly from balsa wood and foamboard, featuring a retractable curtain, stage lighting, and music.
Once triggered, the embedded Arduino gets to work animating the stage lights and blaring “Cherry Pie” while the sugar-coated onlookers await their entertainment. The curtain is drawn back and a trio of winged dancers emerge one by one, ready to entertain the crowd. The onlookers even offer up dollar bills to the dancers via a servo-mounted arm.
The project uses a total of 10 servos driven by the Arduino, along with an audio decoder chip to provide the proper ambiance for the marshmallow debauchery. [Kyle] says that he put together about 650 lines of code to get the whole thing running, but there doesn’t seem to be any way to download it at the moment – hopefully we’ll see something posted soon.
It might not be high-brow, but it sure beats blowing up old, stale Peeps in the microwave!
Stick around for a trio of videos demonstrating the Peep show as well as revealing some of the stage’s inner workings.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrLFgKnDPMA&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4nd9pJFwE8&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwP9dqq-j8Q&w=470]
| 14
| 14
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375657",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T18:51:05",
"content": "Yay, Sony Music Entertainment is restricting embeds. So, YouTube only.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375666",
"author": "Aaron",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:07:09",
"content": "Oh, for God’s sake.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375679",
"author": "axllaruse",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:16:58",
"content": "lol so funny",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375692",
"author": "Branno",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:34:43",
"content": "Seems like a lot of effort to put if for…um… this… I mean, what do you do with it now?Pretty funny though, and looks like he did a good job.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375704",
"author": "Devin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:50:59",
"content": "I think this is one of the best hacks i’ve seen yet! you apparently had too much time on your hands tho.Good job",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375721",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:14:23",
"content": "Absolutely nothing wrong with a good old fashioned peep show. The performers get paid, the clients receive entertainment. Everybody wins.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375723",
"author": "macegr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:15:46",
"content": "“[Kyle] says that he put together about 650 lines of code to get the whole thing running, but there doesn’t seem to be any way to download it at the moment – hopefully we’ll see something posted soon.”Because the world needs more than one of these things.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375732",
"author": "Rhyno",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:24:07",
"content": "Yup, pure awesome. Thumbs up!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375765",
"author": "RooTer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T21:09:45",
"content": "SME hates Poland, so no video for me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375786",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T21:53:15",
"content": "Eat shit Sony!Once again…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375791",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T22:06:48",
"content": "Too bad, I won’t click thru. Sony can drink and eat out of the toilet. Support live and local music.Dirty birds. OK but I like eggsplosions!Beware of the egg laying rabbit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376033",
"author": "stupid939",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T07:06:34",
"content": "@BrannoMaybe he will sell it on HAD classifieds. A guy can hope…It is a pretty funny idea though. Very creative and nicely choreographed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376264",
"author": "KRingg",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T15:19:11",
"content": "Stupid Sony Music… here’s an alternate link:http://www.facebook.com/v/604167790771",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376963",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T10:55:00",
"content": "Love it!And it takes true artistic genius to wordlessly represent a marshmallow peep as bisexual/bicurious.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,223.87583
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/07/geiger-counter-built-in-an-ohmmeter-enclosure/
|
Geiger Counter Built In An Ohmmeter Enclosure
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"geiger counter",
"radiation",
"tube"
] |
Here’s
a Geiger Counter that makes itself at home inside of an old Ohmmeter
(
translated
). [Anilandro] set out to built this radiation detector in order to learn how they work. Like
other diy Geiger Counter builds
we’ve seen, this project assembles a circuit to interface with a gas-filled tube which serves as the detector. [Anilandro] takes a few paragraphs to discuss how this works; the Geiger tube is basically a capacitor whose electrical characteristics change as an ionizing particle passes through it.
Once he had the theory worked out he scavenged some parts to use. A broken emergency light donated its transformer to provide the high voltage needed. The rest of the circuit was built on some protoboard, and a speaker was added to output the clicking noises that have become a familiar part of the detector hardware. The tube itself is housed in a wand that attaches to the base unit through a cable. Check out some test footage of the finished unit after the break.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nrImIHO2Mng&w=470]
[Thanks J]
| 4
| 4
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375660",
"author": "bothersaidpooh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:02:44",
"content": "Nice hack!BTW you can make a basic alpha detector ionisation chamber using a single JFET and a suitable chamber with a sensor glued to it in order to offset temperature drift.I also ran into an interesting variant which uses two chambers side by side in a single cylinder with a magnet on the end to divert particles into one or the other depending on polarity.You can actually detect the type of beta (electron or positron) this way!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375727",
"author": "billwcf",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:18:06",
"content": "Nice Design.Anybody that quickly wants to experiment with Geigers can buy a cheap Russian tube off ebay and use a ccfl driver (from Digikey) and a rectifier and possibly a voltage doubler (depending on the tube). Here is an open source discussion on a Geiger counter being built to be a standard to measure gammas from silver neutron activation. Be warned, the little ccfl drivers pack a wallop. -billhttp://www.coultersmithing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=259&start=20#p1496",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375983",
"author": "Koldfuzion",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T05:45:07",
"content": "I’m curious, what is he using to calibrate and test the system?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376201",
"author": "Parcanman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T13:29:20",
"content": "That little disc is the testing source, I’ve seen ones that color before made of Cobalt, but in this one the resolution of the video is too low to make out what it says.You could pull a small 2 microcurie Americium-241 source sample out of an ionization smoke detector if you wanted to try this out.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,223.967963
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/07/shift-register-is-all-it-takes-to-make-a-3-wire-serial-lcd/
|
Shift Register Is All It Takes To Make A 3-wire Serial LCD
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"595",
"hd44780",
"lcd",
"serial",
"shift register"
] |
This hack is a bit older, but one aspect of the setup makes it worth sharing. Shift registers are a common component to include in a project when you need to increase the number of I/O pins available. We’ve used them to drive LCD screens before, but we never realize you could
use a 595 chip to make a 3-wire serial LCD interface
. That’s because we’ve always thought of shift registers as having three control pins which must be addressed: data, clock, and latch. But it seems that’s not the case. This hack gangs the pins for clock and latch (called the storage register clock input on this chip) together. This causes the shifted data to be latched to output register one clock cycle after it is shifted into the chip.
This means you can operate the 595 chip with just two pins, but alas, you do need one more connection to drive the LCD properly. This is an HD44780 compliant display. It is being used in 4-bit mode; four of the shift register pins provide that data, while a fifth controls the Register Select pin. Since the shifted data from the 595 appears on the pins after each clock strobe, you must control the Enable pin on the LCD separately or it will behave sporadically.
So there you have it, control an HD44780 display with just 3-pins by using a $0.42 part. Are we going a little too fast for you? Check out this
595 tutorial
and give the
shift register simulator
a try. That should bring you up to speed.
[Thanks Rajendra]
| 11
| 11
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375604",
"author": "Emil Eriksson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:43:34",
"content": "Better yet, use a 74HC164 which doesn’t have the latch register, only the shift register. The benefit of this is that the output won’t be one bit behind the shift register as is the case when you use the 74HC595 in the manner described above.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375607",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:55:53",
"content": "Iep, i never understood people paying for serial lcds. I’ve used this method a couple of times.And don’t forget that a 74HCT595 powered at 5V accepts 3.3V levels so that you can control a 5V lcd with a 3.3V microcontroller.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375611",
"author": "spiralbrain",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T18:00:29",
"content": "This isn’t a true 3 wire interface if you add the power lines. Take a look here for a true 3 wire LCD :http://romanblack.com/shift1.htm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375648",
"author": "dood",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T18:27:31",
"content": "There was a very old article by Mike Predko describing this:http://www.rentron.com/myke1.htm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375652",
"author": "ds2ktj",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T18:38:05",
"content": "Agree with bogdan and spiralbrain. I have my LCDs hooked up this way and use the latch of the SR. The 3 wires it takes is better than the six but it’s still not a one wire (nor did it claim to be) interface.this method is however more code efficient than using the latch since you don’t have to shift out the data twice (once with EN low and once with it high). it’s also less timing sensitive than the one wire method above. I think I might change my setup if I wasn’t so lazy.Nice work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375680",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:19:41",
"content": "I’ve used it with the EN pin of the LCD connected to the output of the shift register. The shift register gets connected to a SPI interface. This simplifies software quite a lot, you basically need to write the data to the SPI register, not a port. (of course the CS/EN pin needs control, but there’s no big deal).The method with the RC filters if good, but really only in extreme cases of necessity. It is very sensitive to timing and component value variation with temperature.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375700",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:42:03",
"content": "42 cents for a 595?! Try Jameco, or Ebay and get a pack of 10. I’m still learning, but having a lot of fun with this part.And thanks very much @dood for the informative link. I’m sure there’s a goldmine of information in those PIC books that hasn’t completely found it’s way into the Atmel and especially the Arduino communities.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375708",
"author": "Max",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:56:35",
"content": "OK Ive bought a shift register. It comes in a little black chip. Which bit makes the LCD now?Or should the title read “what it takes to drive an LCD” ?Pedantry over, normal service can resume.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375894",
"author": "TRON",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T01:42:29",
"content": "I’ve done this before using SPI on an ATmega before with a 74HC164. Nice thing is, the SPI hardware takes care of all the clocking and sending data for you, so all you need to do is write to a register and let the chip take over.If you wire your setup correctly, you may even make a true SPI slave out of the LCD [the best way for this though is to use another chip in slave mode driving the LCD directly using a parallel interface].",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375917",
"author": "anti-fanboi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T02:18:42",
"content": "Aaaaaaaargh! What’s that? The sound of countless Arduino drones crying out in realisation….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376026",
"author": "Rajendra Pondel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T06:52:04",
"content": "lolfor what reason i got thanks from you?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,223.924763
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/07/art-installation-lets-you-be-your-own-souvenir/
|
Art Installation Lets You Be Your Own Souvenir
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"cnc hacks",
"Kinect hacks"
] |
[
"3d",
"Kinect",
"printing",
"reprap"
] |
The team at [blablabLAB] have been hard at work on their latest project,
which they unleashed on the streets of Barcelona
in the La Rambla pedestrian mall. Their art installation allows you to pose in the middle of the mall and receive a plastic statue of yourself as a souvenir.
Not unlike the “
Fabricate Yourself
” installation we saw a short time ago, this project also uses the Kinect to create a 3D representation of the subject, though it uses three separate sensors rather than just one. Each sensor is positioned around a centralized platform, creating a complete 3D model, which is then sent to a RapMan 3D printer stationed nearby.
Each user is then gifted a plastic representation of themselves to take home – it’s almost like an interactive human Mold-A-Rama. While the figures are neat, it would be great to see what sorts of plastic statues could be made using a higher resolution 3D printer like the one
we featured a week ago
.
Check out the video below to see the souvenir printer in action.
[vimeo http://vimeo.com/21676294 w=470]
| 17
| 16
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375554",
"author": "hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:37:06",
"content": "Neat, but they should do the head and sell it as part of a DIY bobblehead kit (Head, body & paint.) I alwayswanted to be a bobblehead. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375566",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:56:22",
"content": "The kinect doesn’t have enough resolution for that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375573",
"author": "3dug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:04:58",
"content": "The kinect obviously has enough resolution for a low resolution 3d printer like that, its actually a really good match.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375575",
"author": "rusty",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:06:22",
"content": "how much does it cost to get one?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375599",
"author": "Dan B",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:39:23",
"content": "This is just too cool. I can think of several people I’d like to have stand there just so I could have a totally unique memento of that person.Plus I could have a totally unique chess set using friends as players…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375627",
"author": "Husky Gentleman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T18:13:52",
"content": "It’s like when you look at a picture of your self and realise you’ve been fooling you self on that diet but in 3D….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375649",
"author": "adam",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T18:29:24",
"content": "@rusty considering each of the 3 kinects cost $200 and a 3d plotter like that will run you anywhere from $300-2000 depending on if they had parts for a cnc to start with or built a reprap from scratch, it was probably pretty expensive.any idea how long those actually took to print? even with a fairly low resolution that video had to be speed up",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375655",
"author": "valentin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T18:48:37",
"content": "I wanna see this setup for life real 3D video!!!!6 vga streams and then later post processing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375718",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:09:23",
"content": "cool, they should have people dress up and make a chess set",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375719",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:12:49",
"content": "“Art installation lets you be your own Souvenir”…… nine hours later.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375722",
"author": "Tea@ict",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:14:54",
"content": "I hope someone builds a high resolution Kinect like device soon. That would open up endless possibilities in science and media.It would be a good thing to have full surround real time 3D support built in. Like light filters for color multiplexing of the depth information. Well it seems to allready work pretty good without it though.I wonder how long it will take until I can get a high resolution, full color, 3D print of myself for a reasonable price (meaning one that I can actually afford) generated by a similar device. Something like that should be in every major city (at least).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375845",
"author": "andrew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T23:44:30",
"content": "How do they prevent the 3 kinects from interfering with each other?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375857",
"author": "Xb0xguru",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T00:09:21",
"content": "@andrew – I was going to ask the same question. All I can think of is either they changed the IR frequency of the other two or they have them on 10fps each in a rotated fashion..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375883",
"author": "blablabLAB",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T01:13:47",
"content": "@ Hackius – exactly! a pitty since the resolution of a rapman is incredible, and the kinect can do real time scanning…@ rusty – the souvenirs were given for free. the installation was about making people participate and also about creating wareness around the new pervasive technologies. we made them sign we agreed on beeing 3d scanned@ adam – the print of teh figures averaged 10-15 minutes with a rapman 3.1@ Tea – i recommend you researching for structured -light algorithms… the kinect its not the best but the easiest (and cheapest!) of the setups. this installation planned to use Build Your Own 3D Scanner before the kinect came out.@ andrew – because of the geometric setup they only overlap at some small areas of the body. anyway we used sequenced mechanic shutters to avoid the interferences.thanks for your comments!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "2735382",
"author": "sanjay",
"timestamp": "2015-09-30T16:55:50",
"content": "Hello blablaLAB, I really want to build/develop this setup. As a matter of fact I am 1 kinect (and I believe lots of coding :)) short of it.To teach kids about all these new tech I buld a slightly over sized rotating platform but th eissue is people tend to topple, some can’t keep balance while scanning and that tends to discourage them. I really wish to build this setup. Thank you for showcasing you work. Could you suggest me how do I capture 3 kinect at once. Books I can study, Code that I can build upon?",
"parent_id": "375883",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "376528",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T21:15:17",
"content": "Kinda sloppy 3D printing, but for the reprap, I can see why. Hopefully some of the issues get worked out, I suggested to someone that they heat the work space so everything cools uniformly and not warp, not just the base.Cheers.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376599",
"author": "nrp",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T23:38:16",
"content": "love it",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,224.022627
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/07/hacking-electronic-price-tags/
|
Hacking Electronic Price Tags
|
Kevin Dady
|
[
"HackIt"
] |
[
"e-ink",
"electronic price tag"
] |
Something new is coming to a store near you:
electronic price tags
. [deadbird] decided to get one and see what makes it tick. First off it just looks like an LCD with some coin batteries and a simple board, but removing the batteries it was found that the text still appeared on the screen meaning its an E-Ink display.
Close examination of the chips on board shows that this model has an ATMEL ATMEGA16L, and a ATMEL952 25128AN (a 128k eprom with SPI interface), which makes this thing possible to bend to ones will. Also, dumping the eprom with an Arduino gets everyone a bit closer to decoding the instructions this thing needs to display its graphics, similar to the HP VFD hack we posted about not too long ago.
We have not seen these yet in our local shops, but give it time and it is bound to start popping up in our favorite surplus locations soon enough.
| 67
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375479",
"author": "jeicrash",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:04:43",
"content": "Electronic price tags are not really new, KOHL In Quincy il has them, they allow the store to remotely change prices. An alternate use would be kind of neat if the tags could be picked up cheap.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1641986",
"author": "PanicOpticon",
"timestamp": "2014-07-16T12:21:38",
"content": "I did some looking at this system late last year and early this year. I presented some findings at BSidesRoc, my presentation is here:http://bit.ly/1isrg3d. I have some other stuff I’m working on, but I’m not ready to publish it yet.",
"parent_id": "375479",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "375486",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:09:47",
"content": "My local Kohl(s) have been using a bit simpler version (just the price tag, no bar code, no text, LCD) for years now, mostly in shoes department.Never opened one though :)I’ve also seen a similar device (although for different use) where each one gets a very simple receiver embedded (like for a alpha pagers), with unique ID, then you update the information (the price tag) using a basic alpha paging setup.When you think further, just putting an old fashioned pager instead and subscribing to some cheap paging service, gets you in business quickly :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "375498",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:18:15",
"content": "I disassembled one of these, the uC is in black epoxy and there was an antenna inside. I assume they broadcast RF with a serial number to wake up a particular tag for update.I’ve seen IR-updateable LCD tags in Germanys grocery stores over 10 years ago so yeah these are hardly new, but the e-ink one with what looks like a full graphic display is neat!",
"parent_id": "375486",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "375487",
"author": "thecolor",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:10:12",
"content": "They are all over Kohl’s Department Stores.Not sure what area they serve (but they are in Washington state) and nearly EVERY display has them, so hundreds in one store. :DHowever, I’m not sure if the ones in Kohl’s Department Stores are e-ink… they appear to be more like a watch led. (same size though), but I could be wrong.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375489",
"author": "thecolor",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:10:50",
"content": "funny we just posted the same thing in minutes. :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375493",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:13:29",
"content": "Great minds think alike :)And sometimes I get lucky and get to join them :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375494",
"author": "Just me",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:15:28",
"content": "Verkkokauppa.com has similar tags in its retail shops. They are wireless and they show the price, SKU and how many items there are in the shop. They aren’t e-ink (yet).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375495",
"author": "alex",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:15:37",
"content": "This was one of the original reasons for making e-ink displays. Tonnes of time is spend updating all the signage in store. Back when I worked retail it wasn’t uncommon to get pages of $0.01 price changes one day and then have them all go back the next. Being able to update them automatically would be a huge time saver, but then e-inks first came out it was too expensive an alternative. It’s nice to see that it’s actually being used for this now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375510",
"author": "japkin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:34:48",
"content": "Yep, the Kohl’s here in Atlanta use them for the shoe department. E-ink displays would be great fun to play with if they could be had easily or cheaply. I wonder if they ever “break” at the stores. Maybe they could be snagged before being thrown away.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6185593",
"author": "Maxwell Fisher",
"timestamp": "2019-10-08T23:32:01",
"content": "They don’t throw them away, they just send them back to the company that makes them. (At least at the kohl’s by my area)",
"parent_id": "375510",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6217521",
"author": "Maxwell Fisher",
"timestamp": "2020-02-06T21:24:44",
"content": "Lets all just forget that I was ever here",
"parent_id": "6185593",
"depth": 3,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6328957",
"author": "Jace",
"timestamp": "2021-03-07T00:03:28",
"content": "But…why?",
"parent_id": "6217521",
"depth": 4,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "375512",
"author": "foogoid",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:39:31",
"content": "Looks like they’ll have to start putting security tags on their price tags…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375530",
"author": "Paul",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:01:04",
"content": "Not sure why Kolhs bothers, its not like anything ever costs the marked price, so why even bother with price tags",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375535",
"author": "ftk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:02:36",
"content": "The Pricer electronic tags are interesting too, they have photodiodes to receive updates from high power IR projectors mounted in a grid array on the shop’s ceiling. They can be seen hanging from small pipes, and seem to have quite a few smd LEDs, reflectors, and also an ethernet connection.I stuck an IR logger under a shelf to see if it can record any update frames… According to one of their patentes, each store and each tag as a serial number. I’m wondering if the protocol is simple enough to start blanking tags out or writing random data to them :]",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1994876",
"author": "zibri",
"timestamp": "2014-10-14T12:02:41",
"content": "Hey I was thinking the same thing! Any noews about this? I have one of these tags but I have no logger.",
"parent_id": "375535",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "375543",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:18:16",
"content": "A disposable micro and display just for a price tag?How frickin’ wasteful can these people get?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375546",
"author": "random_NN",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:23:21",
"content": "I actually saw something similar in france about a year ago at a “geant casino” supermarket. They were normal lcd’s though and they have an receiver inside so i think they can remotely be changed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375547",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:23:50",
"content": "Regarding black epoxy, how does one remove it. I have a $10 3.5″ 320x240px SD card photo frame I am dying to figure out.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375553",
"author": "Ductapemaster",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:32:29",
"content": "M4CGYV3R, they aren’t disposable. They’re meant to be placed on shelf ends where price tags are normally put, not on the items themselves.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375555",
"author": "Jas",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:37:13",
"content": "They are not e-ink, they are bistable LCDs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375560",
"author": "Henrik Pedersen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:46:41",
"content": "It would be awesome to hack the price signals of those wireless pricetags everyone is talking about :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375561",
"author": "thlip",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:48:20",
"content": "Disposible I thought they would be used for the shelf not on each individual item. The cost to use these on some items would probably be more than the item. But if you have it sitting under the item attached to the shelf showing what the product is worth that would be way worth it. Lots of the stuff at the grocery store(at least here) has their items marked that way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375564",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:54:15",
"content": "Am I the only one that though “Crap… now they can change the price of stuff automatically with supply/demand.” It could be interesting or it could be really sucky if they began tying sales to certain times of day or fiddling with prices on a daily basis. At least with paper tags, one can expect most things to stay pretty steady simply because the logistics of relabeling things gets in the way of changing prices too often.Also, this opens a whole new field of potentially fun hacking. An bakery section re-labeled with “the cake is a lie” comes to mind :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375565",
"author": "Mr Dan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:56:13",
"content": "@M4CGYV3RIt might seem over the top, but consider how much paper and time is taken up with the continuous process of keeping pricing tags current?Imagine this in a large supermarket where 50 or so promotions could change each week.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375569",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:59:36",
"content": "It doesn’t seem very wasteful to me, since they re-use the tags.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375580",
"author": "Philippe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:16:26",
"content": "@M4CGYV3RI’m sure someone has determined it saves money. Otherwise they wouldn’t do it. Retail is usually very frugal as the profit margins are tight. Think about it, some supermarket chains make money only because they pay their suppliers one or two months later.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375589",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:25:09",
"content": "Just wait til one day a cracker is in bad mood and start programing every tag to show random price.This remind me of a comic I read years ago. A kid found rolls of 20%/30%/40%/50% etc off stickers and started putting on random items….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375590",
"author": "nyder",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:25:25",
"content": "hmm, seems it would be easier not to tag every item, but have a set display that has their price, like how a supermarket has the price of items on the end of the shelf, not on the actually items.That would make it easy to update, not need as many, and the chances of peeps walking off with them are probably going to be slimmer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375605",
"author": "Retrace",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:49:52",
"content": "The Germans are using this for years.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375640",
"author": "erniejunior",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T18:22:57",
"content": "Here in france there are in nearly every supermarked. They could be indeed a great source for e-ink displays. A few of them could make a e-book reader.I think I need to try to get one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375750",
"author": "YaBa",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:46:57",
"content": "We got some of those too in Portugal, RF, not IR :|",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375758",
"author": "t&p",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T21:03:10",
"content": "Speaking of tech in the open. I don’t understand how the solar panels don’t get lifted from the highway. Kids did it all the time with stop signs back in the day.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375774",
"author": "Budgethack",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T21:32:04",
"content": "We have these in some stores here and I took one apart, Turns out it uses the in store lighting to program by adjusting the ac between 50 + 60 hz for 0 a 1 rather good idea to keep costs down.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375878",
"author": "Philippe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T00:52:40",
"content": "@t&p“Back in the days” they didn’t have the “Patriot Act” which basically strips everyone of their civil rights.Kids are quieter now…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375891",
"author": "jesse",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T01:31:26",
"content": "or solar panels don’t look cool on your room wall and take more than 2 12mm bolts to remove :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375923",
"author": "Drake",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T02:25:44",
"content": "@jesseSawzall or portable bandsaw solves all lifes removal problems",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375973",
"author": "Knifegash",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T05:01:23",
"content": "So, I managed to tear a couple of these small black tags from my Kohl’s to mess with them and find out what makes them tick. I’ve completely taken it apart, and cannot find a way to reprogram what to display on the tag. Removing the battery causes the display to cycle through its reset procedure endlessly. There are four holes next to the battery, but after using a safety pin to feel around, realize they’re not buttons, they’re just….random holes. So, any insight on the matter?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "8149341",
"author": "Daniel Gooch",
"timestamp": "2025-07-14T15:36:34",
"content": "The four holes are probably a programming/JTAG/debug connector. Look up everything you can find on the housing.",
"parent_id": "375973",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "375984",
"author": "Vis1-0n",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T05:48:16",
"content": "Even in Africa as well … seen them at Pick ‘n Pay in South Africa – they snuck them in under the noses of the labour unions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376044",
"author": "Alex",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T07:31:12",
"content": "@BudgethackThat is genious. However, I guess this would only work on fluorescent lighting – most stores I know of use sodium or other high pressure discharge lighting (or halogen)…When I worked in retail we had about 40 prices a day to update. It was usually so hectic I only bothered updating the price increases and deft the decreases since it was just a nice surprise for the shopper :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376091",
"author": "dwan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T09:17:34",
"content": "Got a french one in a Casino. Nice epoxy blob inside. Any pointer to an IR logger ? :]",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376111",
"author": "HHH",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T10:09:09",
"content": "I’ve seen this already 3 years ago in a METRO in Germany (Business only market).http://www.metro24.deAlways wanted to “get” one :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376115",
"author": "Standard Mischief",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T10:29:50",
"content": "I like the fact that the e-ink or whatever shows a barcode, Presumably this is scanable, unlike a barcode displayed on my PDA.Would be cool to hack one of these to carry all of your store loyalty cards.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376214",
"author": "Thinking",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T13:50:42",
"content": "These things update from a central control unit via rf , allowing store wide price changes nearly instantaneously. Personally, I think your obsession with hacking everything goes to far. I can’t see any legit uses for someone other than the store owners to be able to control these devices. Sometimes you guys should just fuck off.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376355",
"author": "Knifegash",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:26:39",
"content": "^Fuck knowledge and fuck understanding the way the world works around you, right?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376368",
"author": "HHHH",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:42:20",
"content": "@ThinkingYou have the right to think so.I have the right “Who cares what he thinks”So I start thinking to get one of this toys to play around with.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376373",
"author": "Thinking",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T17:49:43",
"content": "Lets look at that for a moment. Unrestrained knowledge. The Japanese are wrestling with that very consequence right now. Just promise to show any pictures of you in court after you get arrested for the consequences of one of your hacks. I’d particularly like to see a picture of someone with a little tear coming out of the corner of their eye when the judge passes sentence.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376385",
"author": "Knifegash",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T18:30:51",
"content": "Let’s take a look at your statement. The people who have revolutionized energy output and technology advancement, intelligent minds who have had a hand in shaping the cush lifestyle you have come to know and love, innocent people just wanting to live another day…and you say they deserve the tragedy they are in right now? Get the fuck out of here, guy. Get out and stay in your goddamn bubble of ignorance. There are plenty like you, but you ruin the knowledge-economy for everyone when pieces of shit like you venture forth from your stupidity constructs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376399",
"author": "Thinking",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T18:51:24",
"content": "Oh, well in that case forget what I said.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376843",
"author": "lurker",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T08:24:33",
"content": "At first glance, this seemed like a needlessly expensive, easily exploitable system – However;I currently work for a regional gas-station/minimart chain – Every week, there are price changes and every month there are rolling specials. About 50% of the items in the store remain static, but every price change means that SOMEONE has to take the sticker sheets, print the new tags, go through the store and see which items are actually at our particular location, pull the old tag and put the new one up. Then, hope that the updates to the registers were timed correctly and that the tag you just put up is what rings up on the register……This in mind, sticker-sheets aren’t cheap. Our time, though relatively cheap, could be better spent doing something else. Couple that with the fact that price changes and register updates coincide only ~10% of the time, and you’ve got a system that could benefit from these tags……Think about it – Every day, the register system updates – At the same time, every electronic tag updates to show the new or current prices… Instant integration, no wasted time, and with how cheaply these things could be made outfitting an entire store could more than pay for itself in a year or less.-Now the cheapskate side comes out – In NY, our laws state that whatever the tag says is the price the customer is obligated to pay – If it rings up cheaper, nobody cares (though it costs the company)…If it rings up more expensive, I check the tag out – If the customer read it right, and the tag was truly made in error, I am obligated to sell it for the price on the tag. For a system like this to work, a system-wide update option, or a simple hand-scanner type “reset” must be available – Anyone who knows how could simply change the price on the tag, tell the cashier “that’s not what the tag says,” and get their merchandise at a discount…Logistics would need to be worked out, but one could get a good run before arousing suspicion…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377224",
"author": "Hiroe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T19:31:54",
"content": "@thinkingPersonally I intend to.I’ll forget what you and any one else spouting luddite propaganda and advocating ignorance have to say.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378947",
"author": "antonis159",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T17:13:35",
"content": "gia",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "379711",
"author": "Pikachu",
"timestamp": "2011-04-13T21:36:44",
"content": "if i could, i would hack all of them so that they all said FREE. Either that or there’s always the classic PENIS.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "407137",
"author": "sinclair",
"timestamp": "2011-06-17T15:37:16",
"content": "I noticed that there’s no cell phone coverage in Kohl’s. When walking out of Kohl’s, full bars. I have verizon. Sprint was a problem also with my friend. Could the RF device be blasting our cell phones out of coverage? If so, what range of RF are they blasting out",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6268465",
"author": "Leid",
"timestamp": "2020-08-04T06:05:01",
"content": "Would make no sense to block phones. If I can’t call home to query about inems in the shopping list, I’m not goint to buy it.",
"parent_id": "407137",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "453075",
"author": "Avi Solomon",
"timestamp": "2011-09-12T00:42:12",
"content": "I wonder if these could be hacked to make a Rapid Serial Visual Presentation format ereader?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,223.824627
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/07/ir-remote-control-jammer-makes-you-lord-of-the-livingroom/
|
IR Remote Control Jammer Makes You Lord Of The Livingroom
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"home entertainment hacks"
] |
[
"555",
"ir",
"jammer",
"remote control",
"tv-b-gone"
] |
Bring communications jamming technology into your TV viewing experience by
building this infrared LED driver circuit
. You’re probably familiar with
the TV-B-Gone
, which let’s you turn off any television at the touch of a button. But what if you actually want to watch the program that’s currently on the screen when the person with remote-in-hand doesn’t? That’s where this little marvel comes in.
[KipKay’s] IR jammer uses a 555 timer to constantly transmit infrared traffic. The signals it’s sending out don’t correspond to commands the TV (or any other IR remote-controlled device) will respond to. But if the light intensity is strong enough, they will interfere with any signals coming in from a remote or even from a TV-B-Gone. [KipKay] wisely hides this circuit inside of another remote control so that the other couch potatoes you are thwarting won’t get wise to what’s happening. If they want to watch something else they’ll have to get up and walk over to the entertainment center to do something about it, and what’s the chance that’s going to happen?
Don’t miss [KipKay’s] infomercial-esque presentation of this gadget after the break.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GW9p_JLYFUE&w=470]
| 13
| 13
|
[
{
"comment_id": "375438",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T14:17:32",
"content": "simple and yet effective idea. ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375443",
"author": "Pwnsauce",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T14:21:35",
"content": "It’s like the writers took an 8ft long stick and jabbed it at the TV-B-Gone altoids-tin-shaped bee hive. Out of content?BTW => misc hacks (1337)(1337)l337awesome.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375453",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T14:35:51",
"content": "Sort of. Most of your modern sensors have some AGC built in, and in addition are actually able to reject a constant signal at their filtered frequency (standard frequencies are usually 38 and 56kHz). Still a terrific idea, but to work a lot better (jam at a longer range with the same power) you might consider using a 556 (two 555s in one chip) to stagger the output at a rate of about 1 ~ 1.5kHz. If you wanted to take it further, stagger that signal at about 20Hz with an additional 555 and your receiver will be throwing away too much garbage data to make any sense out of the real remote.Or use a cheap internal timed micro, but then you can’t compete in a 555 timer contest.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375482",
"author": "Desmond",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:07:34",
"content": "That’s exactly what I need right now. I have a friend who keeps acting as a human dynamic compressor for the volume – he constantly adjusts the TV volume during movies. :P This will be perfect to stop it!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375496",
"author": "awda",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:16:12",
"content": "kipkay is like bieber of hackers.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375545",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:20:31",
"content": "@awda No way! Justin Bieber is so much less competent at his trade than KipKay is.He’s like the Justin Timberlake of hackers…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375593",
"author": "Brennan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:28:42",
"content": "@DesmondYeah but I absolutely hate it when movies randomly get really loud during some scenes! I tend to ride the volume control as well, since I live in an apartment and don’t want to piss people off.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375699",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:42:02",
"content": "Why not add some jammer code to the tv b gone? Seems like it would be a fun mod for the tv b gone owners, press the button for power off hold for half a second to enter jamming mode pres again to exit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376104",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T09:42:51",
"content": "What it should do though is be in a normal remote and when you press a button it temporarily switches off, that way you are REALLY in control since only your own remote works.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376134",
"author": "Max",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:16:59",
"content": "Time spent by you to this together and craftily hide it: ~1 hourTime spent by someone determined to watch their favorite show instead of yours to get up and change the channel on the TV set: ~10 secondsYour face when that happens: priceless!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376185",
"author": "Harvie.CZ",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T12:46:53",
"content": "Well… if you are using it to block tv remote in which it’s enclosed, you can just make the switch disconnect the power to this remote…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376433",
"author": "Gigawatts",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T19:26:35",
"content": "He is definitely watching “MacGyver” in the background of that demo video:)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "910651",
"author": "MK",
"timestamp": "2012-12-28T18:22:00",
"content": "Dear All, does anyone know if there is a TV jammer device that can operate from a distance of approx. 10 meters without direct site of view to the TV, i.e. through a wall.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,223.604032
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/06/avr-hvsp-on-a-tiny-breadboard/
|
AVR HVSP On A Tiny Breadboard
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"attiny13",
"attiny2313",
"AVR",
"breadboard",
"hvsp",
"isp"
] |
AVR chips are convenient because you can program them in circuit at their operating voltage. That is, unless you screw up the fuse settings and they’ll no longer listen to an In System Programmer. If you find yourself facing this problem, just build this circuit on a breadboard and
‘unbrick’ by holding down the button
.
The circuit seen above is a High Voltage Serial Programmer. This is one of two high voltage protocols used by AVR chips; HVSP is for chips that don’t have enough pins to use High Voltage Parallel Programming. This rendition uses a 12V power source, which is the level necessary for the high voltage method. A 7805 linear regulator joins the mix to provide operational voltage, along with one transistor, an ATtiny2313 to control the circuit, a four-digit 7-segment display for feedback, and one button for control.
Watch the video after the break to see an ATtiny13 programmed to disable the reset pin
using a breadboarded programmer
. That chip is then easily rescued, having been automatically recognized by using its device signature.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHaswi-OYXo&w=470]
| 9
| 9
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374871",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:47:15",
"content": "Looks like a useful device – I’ve never really messed with fuse bits but I have a project or two that need one more I/O pin than the ATtiny13A provides. I should probably get round to making a HV programmer and disable that reset pin…Also, I love the music on this video!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375084",
"author": "Steve B",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T01:36:47",
"content": "I have the distinct feeling this device will be saving my arse one day. Thanks for sharing!@Pedro: IME, if you ever end up working with ATmega devices, you’ll almost *have to* change the fuse bits at some point. There are dozens of fuse bit calculators online, in addition to several Atmel design notes available on the subject. I usually turn to AVRFreaks.net for such things. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375169",
"author": "spiralbrain",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T04:46:20",
"content": "Oh wait I spotted a CDIL transistor, wonder where that came from. (nothing more heer for a Microchip fan!)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375171",
"author": "spiralbrain",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T04:47:01",
"content": "Oh wait I spotted a CDIL transistor, wonder where that came from. (nothing more here for a Microchip fan!)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375927",
"author": "Chuckt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T02:37:36",
"content": "I couldn’t find the four digit seven segment LCD at several sites like Sparkfun, Seeedstudio, Parallax, Adafruit, etc. Like I said before, if people can’t build it then it is just show and tell.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376051",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T07:46:25",
"content": "Heck, they’re cheap enough, why should you care if you brick one? :P They’re max $5 from a store, more like $1 if you buy in bulk.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376159",
"author": "simpleavr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T12:15:45",
"content": "@chuckt the led module can be sourced from ebay, or from futurlec. u may also run it w/o the led module and press and hold the button to reset, w/ no display of fuse value. may be i will try to modify the firmware so it can also work w/ red and green leds (just good / bad fuse indicator).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377411",
"author": "Sleepydog",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T02:24:45",
"content": "Where have I seen this before?http://hackaday.com/2009/03/13/avr-hv-rescue-shield/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "431099",
"author": "threeck",
"timestamp": "2011-08-09T09:35:50",
"content": "hasn’t this been posted here in HaD before?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,223.552854
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/06/alternate-keyboard-layouts-for-geekiness-and-other-reasons/
|
Alternate Keyboard Layouts – For Geekiness And Other Reasons
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Peripherals Hacks"
] |
[
"cleaning",
"colemak",
"dvorak",
"keyboard",
"qwerty"
] |
[BiOzZ] wanted to try a different keyboard layout than the ubiquitous Qwerty, so
he grabbed an old keyboard and converted it to the Dvorak setup
. This was accomplished by first popping off all of the keys from the black keyboard seen above, and boy did he find a mess underneath. It was nothing that a trip through the dishwasher (for the case only) wouldn’t fix, and the next step was to replace the keys in a different order. He found that a couple of them wouldn’t just go back in a different place, but had to be rotated 90 degrees to fit. Not a huge problem, you can see that he overcame the visual speedbump of letters facing the wrong way by adding his own letter labels. From there he walks us through the process of getting Windows to switch to the Dvorak layout.
I went through a similar process at the end of last year. I was experiencing a lot of pain in my hands from my prolific feature writing here at Hackaday so I chose to try out
the Colemak keyboard
. The white keyboard above is the one I repurposed using that layout. I found it quite easy to switch between two keyboard layouts using Ubuntu. After you’ve
set it up in the keyboards dialog a layout icon appears
on the panel. It wasn’t hard to pick the new key locations up, but it did reduce my typing speed by a factor of 8. In the end I found that adjusting my chair height and
keeping my hands warm
did the trick and I’m back on the Qwerty where I belong.
| 54
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[
{
"comment_id": "374833",
"author": "christian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T17:41:56",
"content": "A friend of mine has been using this keyboard for about five years now.http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n66/bunnyf00f00/keyboard003.jpg?t=1302111546This is what happens when you buy 35 keyboards for £1 and cant think of anything else to do with them.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374834",
"author": "Alan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T17:42:35",
"content": "When I tried dvorak I ended up with all the keys at different heights due to them now being on different rows. Only used it for a week before I went completely nuts.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374837",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T17:50:27",
"content": "Woah, way beyond my skill set.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374838",
"author": "biozz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T17:52:39",
"content": "my secound HAD! X3",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374839",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T17:54:31",
"content": "I think that I am going to try this…A long time ago I took apart my keyboard to wash it.. and then i put the buttons in random order, as i don’t look at the keyboard while typing anyway…It frustrated everyone that had to use my computer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374842",
"author": "Jessica",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T17:59:39",
"content": "I highly highly recommend not changing the physical layout. It promotes hunting and pecking. Ideally you’d use a blank keyboard (go go Das). You’re hopefully going to be learning to touchtype. When I switched to Dvorak, I printed out the layout, complete with sectioning so I could see which finger is supposed to hit each key, and stuck it to my monitor.Sure, it’s a bit steeper of a learning curve, but I guarantee you’ll learn it faster and better.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374847",
"author": "tyco",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:03:44",
"content": "I learned Dvorak without rearranging the physical keys on my keyboard. I’d recommend that for anyone learning Dvorak because it FORCES you to look at the screen while typing.Added bonus: Now when I look down at keyboards, my brain sort of half-switches back to qwerty, and the act of looking at the keyboard ended up becoming the cue.Been a happy Dvorak user for 6 years now; it only took me about 3 months to get back to my former qwerty speed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374849",
"author": "biozz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:05:11",
"content": "@bogdansame here … i switch to QWERTY using the keyboard icon when i need to type long things in a short time (im only 24 hours in to using the Dvorak setup) than ill switch to Dvorak to learn it more than eventually ill do a complete conversion when i pass my QWERTY speed except for when im playing a game",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374850",
"author": "Jessica",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:07:31",
"content": "Also, forgot to mention, it moves the nubs so it’s more difficult to position your hands without looking.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374853",
"author": "mungewell",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:12:23",
"content": "I did something similar a while ago; switching the keyboard map between QWERTY and Dvorak, but not moving keys – who looks at the keyboard anyhow? ;-)You can define console commands ‘ASDF’ and ‘AOEU’ to switch between layouts.Simon",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374855",
"author": "Thomas",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:17:35",
"content": "I’ve been using dvorak for the past 2 years.After getting used to dvorak, not only do you type faster with fewer mistakes, but your hands also feel better, because they aren’t as stressed as when using QWERTY.I see no reason why everybody shouldn’t be using dvorak.Everybody should give it a go. It does take some time to learn if you’re coming from QWERTY, but it is fairly easy to learn.It does take a bit of willpower to do so though. but you’ll thank yourself for switching later on :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374857",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:20:16",
"content": "Would Dvorak help against RSI? It started with wrist pain, then a bruise on my wrist and now there’s pain in the knuckle area around the little finger and the finger to the side of it. I guess cos that side of the hand is stretched most.:(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374863",
"author": "Snu",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:36:56",
"content": "nice, ive been using dvorak layout for probably about 9-10 years now. i started out by rearranging the keys on a keyboard, but learning how to touch type was essential since i would occasionally use other keyboards.there were a few issues with switching tho –i had a job where i couldnt switch the layout, so i was stuck with qwerty. i still scored highest in typing speed in the training class tho, heh.second issue is older operating systems and games that have issues with switching, mostly not an issue now, but it was 9 years ago when win98 was still around.third is my biggest problem – keyboard shortcuts. using a program thats shortcut heavy like a tracker, blender, or video editors can be a real pain when the shortcuts arent where the programmer expected them to be.still tho, i wouldnt even dream of going back.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374865",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:38:18",
"content": "I’ve been using QWERTY for over 25 years, no intention of changing now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374868",
"author": "Autogyro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:41:57",
"content": "“qwfpgj”I’ve spent a few years on colemak now, and its great. You will be slow at first, very much so if you are a proficient qwerty-typist, but you will get used to it (eventually). The best way to start is to get a typing-tutor programme and learn to type blind, and do not physically switch your keys, it will only hold you back.Switching should help against RSI (but it is by no means a cure), you’ll also want to look at what you are doing incorrectly now (e.g. bad posture, cold hands, etc.), you will still need to address the underlying problems, even if you switch.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374870",
"author": "Rob",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:46:23",
"content": "I made the switch to Dvorak about 4 years ago due to RSI issues (it helped quite a bit).I didn’t move any keys but relabeled them with a p-touch. I also bought a set of labels for a second keyboard.At this point I don’t bother relabeling the keys anymore since I touch type.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374872",
"author": "Jaysen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:49:23",
"content": "I switched to dvorak a while back, I didn’t want to pay for a special keyboard, and didn’t want to learn it on a funky keyboard with all the keys at different heights. I bought 2 DiNovo Edge keyboards from Logitech. That keyboard uses laptop keys, so there’s no rotating or various height keys. The second keyboard I kept qwerty for guests.added benefit of those keyboards… Bluetooth, wireless, and rechargeable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "951402",
"author": "Daniel Garcia",
"timestamp": "2013-01-31T06:36:00",
"content": "how easy was it to move the keys on the dinovo edge ? or did you use stickers?",
"parent_id": "374872",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "374873",
"author": "adam outler",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:52:39",
"content": "I read that qwerty was designed to reduce jamming on typewriters because dvorak had all the keys commonly used in a row which caused problems in a typewriter. Dvorak was designed for fast typing. 70% of typing is done on the home row keys",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374877",
"author": "smerky",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:56:58",
"content": "Ahh dvorak is awesome. I’ve been using it for two years and I’d definitely not go back to qwerty.Also, you’re better off only switching the keys for an initial period and then swapping them back. This way you’re forced to touch type. I’m able to touch type in dvorak 100% now and I’m significantly faster than I was when I was typing in qwerty. I also find it more comfortable than qwerty.Though, I pretty much know the entire keyboard now since I got my label less Das Keyboard. :DSwitching does take quite a bit of patience.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374878",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:59:27",
"content": "I did this with an old IBM tactile keyboard. The key “hats” just pop off on that model. It was really easy to switch around. Family and friends did not appreciate it when they needed to use my computer though. Even with it set to QWERTY they still had trouble because they were constantly in the habit of looking at the keys.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374898",
"author": "brad",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T19:14:27",
"content": "slowed down by a factor of 8? if you were previously typing at 80 wpm, you’d be at 10 wpm… not exactly speed demon territory. for that kind of difference, i’d go back to qwerty.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374899",
"author": "Lachlan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T19:15:45",
"content": "I’m in the process of moving to colemak, I love having a backspace on the home row (caps lock is removed). Their portable app has a very nice feature where it shows an image of the layout onscreen. also pressing both alts will switch you back to QWERTY.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374903",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T19:19:12",
"content": "Same here – it took me a lot to learn Dvorak after many years on stupid qwerty – but it’s absolutely worth the time.Rearranging the keys is detrimental – the more you look at them the slower you progress.I then bought a typematrix 2020 for great typing pleasure :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374913",
"author": "KlaymenDK",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T19:43:11",
"content": "I’ve used qwerty for 20-some years before I switched to Dvorak, oh, about 6 years or so. I did it in the last week of December where I could “afford” to type slower than usual; come mid-January I was pretty close to my normal speed.I really like this layout, but I still hunt ant peck a little every now and then (to find, say, “^”) — I’m using the Norwegian layout, and I type a lot of Java, which is not exactly what Dvorak is “made for”. On my PDA I still (have to) use qwerty, and oddly enough I find that for one-or-two-finger typing, qwerty is still fastest.From and old discussion [1], let me quote this:“the purported benefit of dvorak is that it’s more ergonomic. This results in it being a little faster, but it’s not the point. …Here’s a fun comparison [2]: Enter some text (using any layout), and have stats shown for Dvorak and qwerty. I have a page about Dvorak [3], and the distribution of characters on that page come out thusly:* Home row — Dvorak: 66%, Qwerty: 32%* Top row — Dvorak: 24%, Qwernty: 49%* Finger movement (arguably less scientifically ‘hard’ piece of data) — Dvorak: 367m, Qwerty: 602mIn other words, Dvorak gets you the same result with 39% less effort. And you DO feel the difference.As someone else added:“You left out:* Coworkers leaving your computer alone due to DVORAK layout — priceless”[1]http://ask.slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=230855&cid=18739475[2]http://www.typocheck.co.uk/dvorak/[3]http://g-b.dk/bin/view/Jan/Computing#Dvorak_keyboard_layout",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374914",
"author": "Tim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T19:43:16",
"content": "This gets me more and more interesting in Dvorak. maybe it’s time I finally try it out.As some people suggest, blank keyboards like “das keyboard” let you easily chose your own layout.On another note, I really like the glove you wear when typing :D I myself found the cheap logitsch ultra flat keyboard a perfect solution against pain in the wrists. it lets you type with your hands in a natural position and for 15$ you can’t complain. And even when I compare it to my brother’s 100$ gaming keyboard it’s quite good",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374924",
"author": "Dax",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T20:10:01",
"content": "I’m still waiting for actual studies that prove that different layouts like Dvorak are actually better.Then again, what applies for english doesn’t necessarily apply for other languages.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374931",
"author": "killasmurf86",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T20:20:12",
"content": "Well, qwerty isn’t optimized for my native language (Latvian) anyway, so I figure I’ll just switch to dvorak, since I do most of my typing in English.It can’t be worse :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374961",
"author": "Richard Crewe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T20:58:55",
"content": "I learnt Dvorak by writing the letters onto an old beige keyboard with permanent marker then giving it a light blow-over with laquer. There was a four week period of looking forward to typing numbers, but after that it was easier.I’d recommend keeping the keys caps in the original Qwerty order as occasionally you need it with some OS, games, boot loaders and IT staff.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375015",
"author": "spiderwebby",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T22:41:39",
"content": "i switched my G15 to Dvorak a while ago. some of the keycaps where keyed for some reason, nothing a pair of flush cutters couldn’t fix :Pmaking XP understand UK Dvorak was a pain though. i ended up making a custom keymap using the MS keyboard layout creator.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375041",
"author": "Tim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T00:00:45",
"content": "I switched to Dvorak a year or two back and would never switch back.It’s hilarious when people try to type on my computer and end up with complete garbage.I started learning Left Handed Dvorak, but gave up because I’m lazy.I can imagine a modern day da Vinci typing with a one handed layout and sketching with the other hand.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375071",
"author": "GTMoogle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T01:12:09",
"content": "The only studies that showed any advantage to dvorak were done by Dvorak himself.Qwerty has the advantage of being evolved in the market, and is very good at most tasks.Use dvorak if you enjoy being counterculture or nothing else helps your RSI (For many, *any* change helps – I switched to a chair without arm rests and my own problems got better), but for anyone else, there’s just no verifiable advantage, and you have to deal with shortcuts and control layouts designed for qwerty.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375117",
"author": "QwertyFtw",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T03:05:45",
"content": "Oh colemak is awesome. I tried it once and it really had a “roll” to it and was easy to pick up (hated dvorak).However the minimal gain in writing speed is in no way worth the pain of having to adjust when not using ones own computer. Especially since colemak is so esoteric that it isn’t available by default on anything but linux distros. It just doesn’t do to be in hunt and peck mode for minutes every time one is presented with a normal keyboard layout.While I didn’t stick with my native qwertz layout (horrible positioning of stuff like {}[] and so on) I chose a good compromise for programming and now use qwerty. Very close to what everyone over here uses and available, selectable and preinstalled on _any_ somewhat modern os out there.Though even though I definitely type a lot I never had problems with my hands so that factor didn’t play into my considerations.Conclusion: Custom layouts aren’t worth the pain. Go mainstream.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375124",
"author": "cantido",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T03:24:12",
"content": "Doesn’t everyone do this? As soon as you realise you can re-arrange the keys you try to find something that will make your keyboard special.. Dvorak layout.I haven’t learned to type.. I just type enough that I know where the keys are. Moving them around totally messes me up. Going between UK layouts and Japanese layouts (mostly the same, just some symbols are moved around) is enough to piss me off. ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375128",
"author": "Perch",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T03:27:00",
"content": "I switched to Dvorak about a year ago. I rearranged all the keys on my macbook and it has worked fantastically as they are all the same shape. The only thing missing are the little nubs where your index fingers go, but it’s not a big deal.I touch type but like the keys labelled for when I’m not really typing but need to use shortcuts. I use a lot of keyboard shortcuts.The first day was tough and I was useless.The second day I spent several hours using some typing training program.The third day I could touch-type very, very slowly.End of the week I was typing poorly but getting by.After a month I was at about 95% of where I was before.A year later I’m sure I’m typing at around 125% of the speed I was before but with WAY less finger movement.I had to take the GRE on a QWERTY and it felt like my fingers were in a tangled mess. It’s drastic.Go Dvorak!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375168",
"author": "Urza9814",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T04:27:57",
"content": "Hate to be that guy, but…Really? This is a “hack”?Also, get an IBM Model M. That’s how I learned Dvorak. Don’t need the key labels now of course, but it was a HUGE help when I was first learning it. Picked it up over a month or so — winter break from highschool. Thing about the Model M is that it uses real keycaps, so you can rearrange them however you want without any issues.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375201",
"author": "rectifier",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T06:25:24",
"content": "Been using Dvorak for many years. Way faster in it than in QWERTY – but still maintain good typing speed in QWERTY (around 120WPM Dvorak and maybe 90 QWERTY) due to using it on other computers.I never re-arranged any keys. Don’t do it! Or you will never be truly fast. I learned to properly touch-type Dvorak that way… you CAN’T look at the keys, it is useless, so you have to learn.To be honest, I can’t hunt and peck Dvorak at all (with the QWERTY caps) and if I need to type with one hand (ha ha, I am holding bearings at work with the other hand, not anything else) I kick it back over to QWERTY. I do not know what letters the keys are to look at them, only how to move my fingers to get the letters I want.Programming or report writing I do in Dvorak due to higher sustained speeds and hand comfort (my hands really do cramp up after a long QWERTY session – it’s why I switched in the first place.)You’ll really notice the decrease in hand movement if you switch to Dvorak! I also find the shortcuts are easier to use in my favorite editor, vim (for starters, CTRL-C uses left pinky/right ring instead of a serious shift of the left hand)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "4210504",
"author": "Mike Diet",
"timestamp": "2017-11-20T23:25:36",
"content": "Thanks Rectifier for the tip. That’s the best way I’ve heard yet to learn Dvorak.",
"parent_id": "375201",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "375205",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T06:29:34",
"content": "You don’t need to change anything on the keyboard to type with Dvorak. All the letters have long worn off the keys on my wireless anyway, so I just change the Windows setting and I can hotkey back and forth between QWERTY and Dvorak.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375330",
"author": "TH",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T11:11:21",
"content": "I looked at the Colemak page and noticed a claim that the developers had the use of computers when designing the layout. This sounded interesting, though I couldn’t actually find any of the computer-generated results. (I expected to see things like frequent letter alternation patterns or frequency charts.) The only thing I didn’t like about it was that it attempted to be “easier” to learn for Scholes (QWERTY) users. The Scholes layout was made for a specific reason and was good for that. It was innovative for its time, but is clearly deficient for modern typing scenarios. I’d consider learning Colemak if I didn’t already know Dvorak, but even their own FAQ says that switching between the two won’t provide a lot of benefit. I agree with the FAQ’s list of Dvorak deficiencies, but I’ve worked around the ones most limiting for me (position of the CTRL key and limited ability on Windows layouts to type accented characters, making keyboard aliases so that awkward key sequences, like “ls -l” are simpler, e.g. “ll”).I’ve read the arguments by Stan Liebowitz (http://www.utdallas.edu/~liebowit/keys1.html), but find that his contentions against the Dvorak layout only cast doubts on August Dvorak’s research rather than diminish the value of the keyboard layout, as has been reasonably reasserted by other people unassociated with Dvorak (measuring finger movement, etc.). I didn’t find what he and his partner said about the market to be at all compelling or much of a defense for QWERTY in the world of touch typing.When I was teaching a keyboarding class, I purchased a slew of cheap USB keyboards and randomized the key caps (to thwart the desire to look at them when learning—very detrimental to learning), I noticed that the key caps for the different rows were beveled such that I couldn’t effectively mix keys from two different rows because of the different angle of the bevel. I haven’t studied lots of keyboards for this effect, but I think it’s pretty prevalent (in America, at least).I don’t know how long Mike tried to use Dvorak, but if he only got up to 12% of his former typing speed, he was doing something wrong. Don’t try to switch back and forth while you’re learning. Pick a time when you can exclusively use the new layout (Dvorak, Colmak, or whatever it is) so that you’re forced to learn it instinctively. Touch typing has more to do with physical memory (your brain knowing where to send your fingers) than being able to orate where the keys are on the keyboard, and that only comes with practice. Don’t bother messing with the physical keyboard (switching key caps or buying a new one with the layout you want) unless you find that you do not posses the minimal self-control needed to keep from looking at the keys. Depending on sight to type will certainly cripple typing speed. Also, expecting to fail is probably the most certain indicator that it will happen. I don’t think it’s reasonably to “try” a new keyboard layout without actually devoting yourself to it. It takes so much effort to learn to use one effectively, you can’t just do it for a couple of weeks and claim that you gave it a fair shake.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375333",
"author": "mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T11:14:12",
"content": "I’ve been a Dvorak user for 7 years, and have converted 4 keyboards.My best advice – buy an apple keyboard and rearrange the keys. They are all the same size/shape, and are all coplanar.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375338",
"author": "Dax",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T11:42:50",
"content": "“buy an apple keyboard and rearrange the keys. They are all the same size/shape, and are all coplanar.”Not at all surprising, considering Apple is always going for the simplest cheapest option to manufacture. Draw a box, round the corners – that’s a laptop.What irks me is that people then argue that this is superior engineering and design.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375407",
"author": "justinsm",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T13:37:22",
"content": "The problem with Dvorak is that 99% of keyboards out there are qwerty by default.If you routinely use a lot of other people’s computers, or use machines that are shared access and locked down, then training yourself to prefer a different keyboard layout is unwise.I gave Dvorak a fair chance, but didn’t experience noticeable benefit from the claims of superior ergonomics. Despite not needing to look at the keycaps, I found that mentally switching between the two was simply frustrating.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375423",
"author": "justinsm",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T13:59:59",
"content": "The other problem is that you aren’t just relearning how to input data quickly, you are also relearning how to interact with applications efficiently.For example, I’m really quick at editing code using vi, but that’s largely because of muscle memory. I learnt vi while using qwerty, so if I’m using Dvorak, then I’m naturally going to want to press qwerty’s ‘i’ key for insert mode. Not because of the letter itself, but because of it’s input meaning in that context. It’s extra work having to relearn that for each application.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375516",
"author": "jricesterenator",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:40:12",
"content": "Been using Dvorak for 8 years now, and I love it. I’ll never go back.I’m not necessarily any faster than I used to be, but typing is so much more comfortable and fluid.I have QWERTY board in front of me, and I touch type Dvorak on it. At this point, I think it’d screw me up to type Dvorak on a Dvorak board because the few times I look down at the board, I wouldn’t expect to see the right keys in the right place.You get used to keyboard shortcuts being all over the place.It helps me a lot that I switched in high school, so all the UNIX, Vi, programming, etc shortcuts I learned were on Dvorak. So I’ve only had to re-learn words not a bunch of other crazy muscle memories.After a few years and having to use QWERTY on a lot of other people’s computers, I brushed up my QWERTY skills. Now I can 80% touch type QWERTY as well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375549",
"author": "JackD",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:25:48",
"content": "TH: “I expected to see things like frequent letter alternation patterns or frequency charts.”You might be able to find some of that on this site which provides analysis of a number of the formats:http://mkweb.bcgsc.ca/carpalx/I learned colemak over 4 years ago, and I can still switch in and out of it in my head. D;mkflmkd L’uu dfasf dorljt and realize I’m doing it in the wrong layout. I didn’t learn to touch-type until I learned colemak; I left the keys where they were and taped a picture of the layout to the monitor. It took almost a month (switching between layouts on the same computer, which is not recommended) before I got up to the same speed as qwerty and another couple weeks until I passed it. I’m pretty sure I can still type faster in colemak, but most of all, it just feels nicer…more seamless.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375558",
"author": "signal7",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T16:39:21",
"content": "Not sure if it was mentioned earlier, but you can rearrange the keys on an IBM Model M keyboard any way you like without having any of the height/orientation issues. I have several Model M’s for just this reason.At work, I use a second-gen Das Keyboard. Mentally when I look at the blank keyboard I can pretty much see both layouts, depending on what I’m doing.I’ve been a touch typist for about 20 years. Spent roughly 13 years on QWERTY and the last 7 on dvorak. My only complaint is that I can’t change the layout everywhere (BIOS and Dell Quickboot are two examples).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375572",
"author": "TH",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:02:44",
"content": "@JackDThat site (carpalx) is way cool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375686",
"author": "Gordo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:23:26",
"content": "Why not just get a natural keyboard? Since using this my RSI is pretty non-existent",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375808",
"author": "tom",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T22:43:52",
"content": "I switched to Dvorak ages ago and wouldn’t switch back. the only problem is i find using qwerty keyboards difficult now. But it keeps people off my computer. They see the keyboard start trying to type and go “screw this”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375870",
"author": "Lol",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T00:35:31",
"content": "Dvorak users are hipsters, lol!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377981",
"author": "dan fruzzetti",
"timestamp": "2011-04-11T02:42:43",
"content": "Learning Dvorak was the best thing for me. I had to start by physically remapping a memorex keyboard and switching layouts in windows. but over time i became a very good touch-typist.My problem was that i had become so set in my QWERTY ways typing with two fingers on one hand and three on the other that there was no saving me with respect to the original layout.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,224.371795
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/06/blu-ray-laser-plotter-writes-on-glow-in-the-dark-screen/
|
Blu-ray Laser Plotter Writes On Glow-in-the-dark Screen
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Laser Hacks"
] |
[
"blu-ray",
"diode",
"glow in the dark",
"laser",
"pololu",
"servo"
] |
This laser display is persistent
thanks to a glow-in-the-dark screen. [Daniel] built it using a Blu-ray laser diode. As the laser dot traverses the screen, it charges the phosphors in the glow material, which stay charged long enough to show a full image.
The laser head is simple enough, two servo motors allow for X and Y axis control. A
Micro Maestro 6-channel USB servo controller
from Pololu drives the motors, and switches the diode on and off. This board offers .NET control, which [Daniel] uses to feed the graphics data to the unit. Check out the video demonstration below the fold to see a few different images being plotted. It’s shot using a night-vision camera so that you can really see where the laser dot is on the display. It takes time to charge the glow material so speeding up the plotting process could actually reduce the persistent image quality.
This is yet
another project that makes you use those geometry and trigonometry skills
.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akY24gXPyYs&w=470]
| 17
| 17
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374820",
"author": "JP",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T16:53:45",
"content": "Does anyone else see large item 3d printing possibilities with this?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374825",
"author": "jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T17:04:14",
"content": "“It takes time to charge the glow material so speeding up the plotting process could actually reduce the persistent image quality.”use a higher power laser!i have a 5 or 10mW 445nm laser that makes glow in the dark things light up pretty quick, but then my 50mw 445nm looks practically nuclear instantaneously",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374827",
"author": "xeracy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T17:09:03",
"content": "nice project, ent… I may borrow this idea for a live audio visualizer…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374848",
"author": "other jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:04:12",
"content": "@jordan, 445nm lasers can be much more powerful than 50mW. A 1W 445nm laser is now common. Also, you can buy a 600mW 405nm diode for approximately the same price as a 1W 445nm diode. I have both, and after comparing them I found that the 405nm diode fluoresces most material far better than 445nm.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374854",
"author": "Roberto",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:16:25",
"content": "Do these phosphors dim fast enough to make a 60 FPS scan attainable? You know, like Cenozoic era cathode ray tubes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374859",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:26:12",
"content": "Here’s something VERY weird I discovered many years ago when I got my first laser pointer (cost £35 for what you can now buy for less than £1).Shining the red laser on a sheet of charged-up glow stars stops it glowing where it’s shone, tried the same with my green laser pointer recently and that also stops it glowing (much quicker because it’s brighter).Both the red and green lasers make a dark spot or dark line where you shine them on the glowing material.WTF is going on?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374860",
"author": "Jas",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:28:50",
"content": "Using servos is unnecessarily slow and clunky when there are cheap Chinese galvos available, as seen here:http://lm741.posterous.com/new-footage",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374861",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:33:02",
"content": "I would use it as a huge oscilloscope!It even has persistence.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374897",
"author": "Timmeh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T19:14:21",
"content": "@HakuIs the dark line permanent (as in, it stays dark untl charged again), or temporary (as in it becomes light again)?It may just be that the brightness of the laser causes your eye to overcompensate for it, causing dark tracks. I guess you’d notice tho.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374918",
"author": "Dax",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T19:51:23",
"content": "You can speed up the scan and simply repeat it over and over again rapidly to get a more even exposure to the image.That should be the preferred method instead of just going over it once.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374925",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T20:16:29",
"content": "Why not just use two lasers and interlace the picture?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374937",
"author": "jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T20:28:55",
"content": "@other jordanderp i meant to say 405nm… 445 is the wavelength I don’t have yet.if only 1W blues weren’t so expensive…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374966",
"author": "foogoid",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T21:13:45",
"content": "@Haku:Here’s my semi educated guess:A phosphorescent material is charged by absorption of photons, causing electrons to reach higher energy states. This energy state is then reduced first (e.g. thermally) without emission of photons to an intermediary state. From there, it can directly emit the light again (fluorescence), but in rare cases, the electron reaches a different spin state. From this state, the energy is released slower, as the electron needs to undergo another spin change, which is unlikely. The afterglow effect (phosphorescence) is the emission of photons by this process. External factors (heat) increase the speed of the process.This explains why the lasers cannot charge the material: as monochromatic light it only contains the visible wave length, which is not sufficient to reach the energized state.Now my guess is, that the light stimulates the discharge of energy from the energized atoms.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375036",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T23:52:35",
"content": "@Timmeh, shining the laser on charged glow material makes it stay dark until you charge it up again with ‘normal’ light. It’s not your eyes compensating for the brightness of the laser because I held the laser right on the glow material so you couldn’t see the laser light, then taking it away leaves a dark dot.@foogoid, that’s an interesting educated guess and it does make sense.I’m going to have to make a video and post it on YouTube because it’s such a weird phenomena, now where did my sheet of glow stars go…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375086",
"author": "GZ",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T01:43:25",
"content": "hmm… replaces this with phosphor painted on glass. Put in a red green and blue fine striped material across the glass. Put in a stencil mask or two. Use three lasers. …. ah ^&%$, just re-invented tv….:)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375207",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T06:32:00",
"content": "I’m curious why a video this terrible and grainy was uploaded at 720p and 1080p.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375331",
"author": "Daniel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T11:11:25",
"content": "Hi there, i’ll try so answer some of your questions:@xeracyYes, by all means.@RobertoNo, it takes aprox. 5 mins to draw an entire frame, video is 8x speed@HakuWow thats cool. if it works i’ll try to implement it as an eraser.@JasYes it is very slow and clunky, thanks for the link i’ll check it out.@HirudineaIts a money issue, samething goes for Jas’ galvos (i havn’t checked out the pricetag yet)Two lasers and a smoke machine, yes please :)Possible Improvements:Faster and more precise servosUse a spinning mirror to paint the entire image for x amount of time.More powerful laser (current laser is 100mW from ebay)Make the glow paint layer thicker, shorter charge lasts longer (retains the image for longer, reduces fps)Possible to implement shades, draw the lighter ones first.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,223.503986
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/06/keep-fun-in-check-with-a-parental-count-down-timer/
|
Keep Fun In Check With A Parental Count Down Timer
|
Jesse Congdon
|
[
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"AVR",
"capacitive sensor",
"timer"
] |
Gaming industry software engineer [Pedantite] writes in to let us know about his latest endeavor, an AVR based parental assistant timer:
Good Times
. Looking for a new project that would be both useful and interesting, his wife suggested a “time out/ time’s up timer”. Like most of us [Pedantite]’s children are well studied in the arts of procrastination and mischief. In the kids’ case this leads to time outs and break time running amok. The solution, in this case, is pretty much an advanced DIY egg timer with fun sounds.
The timer sports all of your basic countdown-timer functions including a 4 digit 7-segment LED output display, stop light style LED indicators, and controls to start/pause and stop the count down. The count down time can be input via the +5 minute, +1 minute, and +15 second buttons. There is even a happy/sad button to toggle between “time out” and “break time” modes. Two Atmel micros power the device, an AT Tiny 2313V for the capacitive touch keypad and an AT Mega 644P for the display, audio, and time measurement. There are a lot of excellent techniques used in the build, some which we have covered here: Four 595 Shift
registers
for the display; A 4 bit r2r
DAC
for audio output.
[Pedantite] is still in the process of writing up the project in multiple posts, and would love to know what you all want to hear about. Check out
his blog
for details and a quick video of the timer in action! Also, if you are interested in capacitive buttons, check out
part 2
of the writeup.
| 6
| 6
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374811",
"author": "andrew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T16:20:52",
"content": "For whatever it’s worth, stimuli correlated with the removal of a fun activity (the passage of time on the display in this case) tend to become aversive. His kids might appreciate it more if it counted down time left to work. Even then you might see his kids avoid the timer or even him near the beginning of a work period because that’s associated with a long time until break.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374864",
"author": "jeeger",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:37:27",
"content": "“Come back now, children! Your 30-second break is over!”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375057",
"author": "fred",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T00:43:19",
"content": "I’m in the process of building a multiple child bed-time reminder, with buttons for Mum to advance the bedtime.I’m using an RBBB + 3216 display.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375181",
"author": "Lars",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T05:16:06",
"content": "A countdown clock is actually also very helpful for kids with autism. Especially if it rings when the time is up. It helps them change activities.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375182",
"author": "Pedantite",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T05:17:55",
"content": "We use it primarily as bed time reminder and “time out” timer. My kids do have a love-hate thing with the device. Before I built it, I used my cell phone as a bed time timer. So far, my kids don’t appear to be avoiding me :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375228",
"author": "error404",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T07:45:59",
"content": "I really like the capacitance sensing mechanism. So simple and obvious, but…I wouldn’t have thought of it.Use the input capture device for timing and I don’t think you need to worry much about timing anymore, so can do it all in the one micro.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,223.644212
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/06/bluetooth-headset-battery-swap-keeps-going-and-going/
|
Bluetooth Headset Battery Swap Keeps Going And Going…
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"digital audio hacks",
"Musical Hacks",
"Wearable Hacks"
] |
[
"headphones"
] |
[Reginaldo] purchased a cheap Bluetooth headset adapter, and while it worked well with all of his devices, he was disappointed to find that the battery life didn’t quite live up to the manufacturer’s claims. Advertised as capable of operating for 10 hours, he discovered that the device would typically die after only 7. He wanted more from the headset, so he took things into his own hands and
replaced it with a much larger battery
(
Google Translation
).
His goal was to keep the modifications as cheap as possible, so he repurposed a lot of items he had sitting around the house. He used a battery out of an old cell phone, with a capacity over six times greater than that of his original headset battery. He built a charging circuit using a MCP73863 microchip, specifically designed for managing Li-Ion/Li-Poly batteries. The Bluetooth headset was dismantled and repackaged in the shell of a cheap “audio amplifier” that he had on hand, along with the new battery and charging circuit. A nifty Hackaday logo was included on the outside of the new battery case, and the project was deemed complete.
[Reginaldo] reports that he is quite happy with his battery retrofit. The new power brick only takes about half an hour longer to charge, but can now be used for approximately 44 hours before requiring a recharge – not too shabby!
| 6
| 6
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374747",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T14:04:19",
"content": "Just a note to editors: “amplificador” in Portuguese means indeed amplifier but in this context, Brazilians actually refer to it as an FM radio (amplifier).Other than that, great hack! Juicing 44 hours out an headset is quite astonishing!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374750",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T14:07:56",
"content": "Note: Forget about the FM radio, its indeed a general purpose amplifier – I can see the mic in the pictures and TFA explains it further down.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374762",
"author": "mdmitry",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T14:26:16",
"content": "Using & charging it at the same wasn’t possible before modification. Nice!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374815",
"author": "cool kinda.",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T16:35:14",
"content": "It looks really cool but isnt the appeal of bluetooth headphones the lack of cords? I retrofitted my cheapo depo bluetooth stereo headphones that took 2 AAAs with 2 high capacity rechargable AAs and it made a huge difference. Awesome project but impractical for me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374826",
"author": "StacyD",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T17:06:06",
"content": "If this guy reads this blog, which I am betting that he does…..Decouple all of the components with ceramic caps. Then smooth out the power supply with a large electrolytic or tantalum with a film or ceramic bypass (film is better here). I don’t see any OUTPUT caps, so you need not worry there as usually that is the culprit of many of these BT-headsets.The major reason why a bunch of these BT headsets sound so bad is poorly managed power and cheap/bad caps. Although the model in question here is not a fantastic chip to begin with. I would highly recommend getting a model with a CSR BlueCore 5 in it. The nice thing is that the BlueCore5 chips have embedded USB/SPI/UART support so you can actually mess with them and change things easily. One feature of the CSR chips is to make your own filters for the core.Once you have the power better filtered (as those charging circuits add more nasty than you think), tune the PCB embedded radio antenna (use a razor to make cuts and copper tape to add). I would also play around with your phone’s BT driver stack as well as your computers to make sure that you are NOT using the SBC codec as it sounds terrible and using the highest bitrate possible.Cheers!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375224",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T07:34:33",
"content": "Battery with balls! I just put 2 (18650) cells in a handle on the left of a digital camera. It just still fits in a shirt pocket, but runs for hours even taking video.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,224.132139
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/06/everything-you-need-to-know-about-wall-warts/
|
Everything You Need To Know About Wall Warts
|
Kevin Dady
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"power",
"wall wart"
] |
If you work with electronics at any skill level you need juice. [Jon] has a great, and clearly worded tutorial about
Wall Wart Power Supplies
with pretty much everything you need to know about those little black boxes hanging off of your outlets.
The whole thing starts off with the basics like transformers, rectification smoothing and regulation, then moves on to the different basic types, dedicating a page to linear, regulated and switching types, giving output performance charts under different situations.
Also included is a run-down of DC barrel jack structure so you get the right plug every time, wall wart type identification, a random sample comparison test, and a good selection of formulas to even keep the old hats reading along. Although you might want to set aside a little time at 9 pages and some Q/A in the comments, it might take a moment to read.
| 25
| 24
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374703",
"author": "TMXOD",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T12:24:59",
"content": "500 Internal Server Error‽",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374711",
"author": "tamasko",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T12:38:32",
"content": "This sounds awesome but the site is down. Mirror?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374724",
"author": "Thuli",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T13:08:23",
"content": "there’s a good guide here too;http://www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/plugpack.pdf",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374765",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T14:41:50",
"content": "Why on earth are they called wall warts?http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WartI don’t see any warts on my walls for sure.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374768",
"author": "Olivier",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T14:50:16",
"content": "@Elias : the wart is the power supply you plug in your wall.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374770",
"author": "Eli-0",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T14:55:42",
"content": "@Elias – Because they often look ugly when plugged in, compared to a standard electrical cord. Like a “Bump” on a smooth wall…. or a …wart on smooth skin.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374772",
"author": "Slipster",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T15:06:42",
"content": "… Problem loading page. Looks like it’s overloaded.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374817",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T16:39:46",
"content": "Thanks for the explanations guys :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374938",
"author": "TecKnight",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T20:41:52",
"content": "I am getting:DB function failed with error number 2006MySQL server has gone away SQL=SELECT name, link,id FROM jos_picmicro_menu WHERE published=’1′ AND link LIKE ‘index.php?option=com_comprofiler%’when trying to access link.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374963",
"author": "Jon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T21:05:35",
"content": "The site’s server is 100% loaded at the moment. It’s being looked into.I don’t think it’s too much traffic from Hack-A-Day, but thanks if it is!Please check back later if you can’t get through now.Jon",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375125",
"author": "G8erB8",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T03:24:55",
"content": "It loaded for me. Thank you so much for writing this. I’ve been putting off getting a power supply for my project just because I didn’t fully understand everything. This is a huge help.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375211",
"author": "error404",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T06:48:48",
"content": "Coral Cache!I’m curious about this but alas I’m getting a blank page.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375217",
"author": "LordNothing",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T07:10:18",
"content": "this article just does not want to be read",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375218",
"author": "Jon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T07:17:33",
"content": "I think the site is down for a bit for maintenance now. The article has received over 5000 hits since the Hack-A-Day post this morning…amazing!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375225",
"author": "Graham Mitchell",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T07:35:23",
"content": "I’m the web admin @ digital-diy.com and I’m sorry about the load issues guys! The sheer volume of HaD traffic put the site to test..Have made some updates and it might be a little slow, although it’s working now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375248",
"author": "Jon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T08:29:33",
"content": "Here is an alternate site if the above link does not work. The plot links are being added.http://www.clever4hire.com/special-articles/home/ac-dc-power-supplies—using-wall-wartsSorry for the problems at Digital-DIY.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "2644748",
"author": "Mathieu",
"timestamp": "2015-07-14T05:20:13",
"content": "Thanks for the link! Awesome informations!",
"parent_id": "375248",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "375579",
"author": "freddyb",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T17:11:28",
"content": "Pawn shops are a great source for wall warts. They usually have a large cardboard box full of them by their electronics area. They’re usually $0.50 to $1 each.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375728",
"author": "setlahs",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T20:18:12",
"content": "I’d be interested in information on hacking switching power supplies to output different voltages.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376522",
"author": "mikellekim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T21:06:56",
"content": "If you feel like expanding the article, it would be interesting to have efficiency comparisons among the different units.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376543",
"author": "Jon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T21:45:47",
"content": "“If you feel like expanding the article, it would be interesting to have efficiency comparisons among the different units.”Interesting you should say that. This was part of my original plan! I was using a Kill-A-Watt to measure AC watts, VARs and power factor but the Kill-A-Watt just didn’t have the required resolution for the measurements.Some tentative results are that a switcher is hands-down the winner at lower output levels. But if a switcher and a linear supply are compared at near their rated load, the situation may be different. The switcher may draw less “real power” but when the power factor is considered, the apparent power is higher. You don’t pay the utility for apparent power, but if you’re using a generator or UPS, you have to generate the higher level.I’d love to do this study when I come up with a more accurate way to measure true power and power factor.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "377687",
"author": "mikellekim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-10T16:58:51",
"content": "I have the same issue with my Kill-A-Watt. The error is especially obvious at low wattages (LED xmas lights for example).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378723",
"author": "nixar",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T09:38:58",
"content": "I’m sorry but the linked article kinda blows. Repeating 5 times that you need a regulator if you use a linear power supply is also pointless. It’s missing the main point about linear supplies, the fact that they’re as obsolete as the aged casings they reside in shown in the pictures.They simply should not be used. Replacing them with cheap modern switched supply will pay for itself rather rapidly in electricity savings.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378753",
"author": "Jon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T12:04:33",
"content": "Actually nixar, several of the linear power supplies are from current-release NetGear products.I wasn’t able to complete “phase 2” showing efficiency because of lack of resolution in the Kill-A-Watt but I do have enough data to suggest that switchers and linears when operated around mid-point in their range may be about a wash in terms of power used. Switchers win when plugged in and no load is connected but when under load, this may not be the case.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "378774",
"author": "nixar",
"timestamp": "2011-04-12T13:26:48",
"content": "Switched power supplies used to be much more expensive — 20 years ago — because they required more advanced power electronics. Nowadays those components cost pennies, while the relatively high Cu content of linear supplies is not getting cheaper.That’s about the only advantage linear supplies had. They have much a worse PF, or at least switched supplies can easily be made to have much better PF.Switches supplies have, as you said, much better low load efficiency — in fact, they can be made to have as little consumption with no load as you’d want, while linear supplies are in the best case one big resistor.The thing is, there is no circumstance where a linear supply has better efficiency. They’re at most as good as bad switched supplies in some loads, and definitely worse the rest of the time.I have no idea why Netgear would ship those. Maybe on the low end they are more reliable?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,224.213283
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/06/reverse-engineering-led-vodka-bottle-displays/
|
Reverse Engineering LED Vodka Bottle Displays
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"LED Hacks",
"Wireless Hacks"
] |
[
"alcohol",
"Atmel",
"led",
"pic",
"wireless"
] |
When [Tyler] heard about the LED matrix display that Medea Vodka was building into their bottles, he immediately wanted to get his hands on one. Who could blame him? Someone had finally combined two things we love dearly: booze and LEDs.
He struggled to find a bottle at any of his local stores for the longest time, but was absolutely stoked when he finally came across one of their reps promoting the brand while he was out shopping.
Once he got home, he pulled the display off the bottle and
began poking around to see what made it tick
. The display is made from a flexible PCB, and attached to the bottle with some clear elastic film. It is powered by two CR2032 batteries and controlled by a PIC16F chip, which pulls stored messages from a small Atmel EEPROM.
Once he figured out how to control the LED matrix, he uploaded his own fonts and added a LINX wireless module
to remotely send messages to the board
. He mounted it in a wooden frame and now uses it as a simple marquee display.
If you have one of these displays hanging around your house, be sure to swing by his site for schematics of his wireless interface board as well as the code he uses to drive the marquee. You can check out a video of the display in action there as well.
| 10
| 8
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374680",
"author": "dkavanagh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T11:40:04",
"content": "Man, I hunted down one of these a year ago for the same intent, but we moved and I still don’t know where that thing got packed (9 months after moving!) Glad for the docs, thanks!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374681",
"author": "JeremyC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T11:40:12",
"content": "That is really cool. I wonder how much a bottle costs?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6216528",
"author": "Jim",
"timestamp": "2020-02-04T03:30:45",
"content": "$30",
"parent_id": "374681",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "374714",
"author": "Keith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T12:45:34",
"content": "“absolutely stoked” … Vodka … get it? ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374743",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T13:53:21",
"content": "Damn.. I don’t recall seeing those bottles @ LCBO!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374754",
"author": "Lion XL",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T14:14:14",
"content": "I’ve seen these all over NY, had a similar idea until I saw the price -> $40.00!!!!It’s cool bottle and all, and a nice little hack, but $40 for some marginal brand of vodka, a LED strip, and a pic or two….just isn’t worth $40!!!now maybe if was a bottle of yak……",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2847889",
"author": "jbisdale",
"timestamp": "2015-12-22T06:32:31",
"content": "Ahhh the commercial folks were watching… now in 2015 Medea Vodka with LED label is available at Costco… and the labels are detachable, and programmable either manually or via bluetooth (IOS and Android apps available)http://medeavodka.com/how-to-program/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "3026409",
"author": "rick s.",
"timestamp": "2016-05-20T16:47:10",
"content": "The bottle I just got as a gift is programmable for message content, via Medea’s iOS app, connecting over bluetooth. So, no real need to hack it, if all you want is to customize messages.Their info clearly says the batteries cannot be replaced and are not rechargeable, with a approx. 20 hours of on-time life. Says nothing about the display being removeable.I’m interested in simply being able to recharge it, or replace the battery, or power it from a wall wart. Haven’t tried to remove it yet, as still a few shots left inside!By the way, they bill themselves as an ultra-premium grade spirit. I have sampled enough brands to say their product is good, being very neutral in flavor. I am not a pro judge on the subject however. They tout their gold awards. If you want the bottle/display, I say don’t be afraid that you are going to get cheap swill inside.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6183680",
"author": "Busybro",
"timestamp": "2019-10-01T00:57:23",
"content": "Yes I bought about four bottles in 2016 one still has a charged battery, did you ever discover a way to recharge or replace the battery?",
"parent_id": "3026409",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "3299432",
"author": "Scotty",
"timestamp": "2016-12-04T17:54:10",
"content": "I ran a razor blade lightly along the side opposite the buttons and with a little prying exposed the battery enough to pull it out. Time to go find a replacement!! CR2032 Lithium 3v",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,224.422436
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/05/atmega-analog-two-pack/
|
Atmega Analog Two Pack
|
Kevin Dady
|
[
"how-to"
] |
[
"analog",
"atmega"
] |
Back in February, [ProtoStack] posted a pretty good tutorial on how to do
Analogue to Digital Conversion on an Atmega168
. Based on a bread board, the tutorial also shows the often forgotten low pass filter on the AVCC lines to ensure an extra stable reference and an analog input connection to a simple voltage divider as a study point.
Moving on into the micro controller, the registers you’re going to need to twiddle are laid out and explained in detail. Finally you’re shown how to put it all together in a software project that outputs the analog reading onto a standard character LCD.
But hold on! There is more. Just released is a follow up to that tutorial which adds on
Analogue to Digital Conversion Interrupts on an Atmega168A
. So if you’re sitting there looking at an Arduino and want to know more about what’s going on under the hood, these are a good place to start.
| 7
| 7
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374003",
"author": "Daid",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T14:05:23",
"content": "The 2nd tutorial contains some wrong information:“Because we set the prescaler to 128, it take 128 clock cycles to read the analogue input. Whilst this is occuring we could be doing other things.”This is wrong, the prescaler is set to 128, however, it takes 13.5 ADC cycles to get the ADC sample. So it takes 1728 clock cycles to take the ADC sample.He also writes the ADIF bit in ADCSRA. But the datasheet says: “ADIF is cleared by hardware when executing the corresponding interrupt Handling Vector.” so there is no need for that.ReadTheFuckingDatasheet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374112",
"author": "rusty",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:37:38",
"content": "why so angry?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374165",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:33:54",
"content": "No kidding right? Well regardless, thanks for the clarification Daid.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374386",
"author": "error404",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T23:45:35",
"content": "@rusty:I’ll venture a guess that folks who actually take the time to understand this stuff are a little sick of the Arduino generation writing ‘tutorials’ when they don’t really understand what’s going on themselves. It’s the blind leading the blind.It’s an interesting phenomenon around blogging, actually. People learn something new to them and are excited by it, so they go off half-cocked and write a blog post explaining it to others. While those that have been doing this stuff for ages don’t find it particularly interesting or difficult enough to warrant a post. So the newbie-friendly educational material that ends up out there is fraught with error and misconception.At least that’s my take. If I had any idea what people needed help with on AVR I’d take a stab at writing my own blog on the topic, but alas it’s all in the datasheet so I don’t see where help is needed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374397",
"author": "Simon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T00:30:22",
"content": "The (unnamed) ProtoStack guy doesn’t come off as an Arduino-generation newbie to me at all. I think it’s more likely he just made a couple of minor mistakes in reading the datasheet. His articles are well written and of a high standard in general, and I’m sure he appreciates corrections to his articles without being attacked on a personal level.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374777",
"author": "Daid",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T15:18:13",
"content": "He comes of to me has “used the ADC once or twice, and wrote a tutorial by skimming over the datasheet”The datasheet has atleast 2 pages dedicated to the timing of the ADC. It’s not something you should miss.I’m all for tutorials to get people off the arduino and into the better programming space. But this isn’t difficult stuff, it’s quite basic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374909",
"author": "Daniel Garcia",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T19:34:37",
"content": "Thanks for noticing this. I’ve updated the tutorial and fixed the issue. I always appreciate feedback.And yes, I should be a bit more careful when reading the datasheet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,224.467262
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/05/redeye-printer-interface/
|
Redeye Printer Interface
|
Kevin Dady
|
[
"LED Hacks",
"Peripherals Hacks"
] |
[
"ir",
"printer"
] |
This
handy printer interface
started out as a request on our very own
forums
when forum member [victorf] needed some output via thermal printers. He had scored a number of HP82240B thermal printers intended for use with HP calculators, but of course they used the somewhat arcane HP protocol first drafted in the 1960’s and needed some help.
Fellow forum member [wireb] started to look into it, found out it uses a standard 32KHz carrier signal, and started asking questions about its use. Grabbing a pdf of the manual he was able to find out all the details to what the printer was expecting in the form of communications.
After a few weeks, [wireb] was able to make a convenient, logic level serial to HP-IR adapter based around a PIC16F1824 who’s firmware supports 9600 8N1 or 2400 8N1 speeds, ASCII text, and the printer’s “advanced” graphical modes via escape sequences.
If you have not checked out our
forums
yet we suggest you do!
| 6
| 5
|
[
{
"comment_id": "373950",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T12:08:59",
"content": "I wish this were an article, it would be easier than digging through forums (early in the morning before work, you see)But this is cool. I think its better than newer printers, if I assume correctly, its using HP protocols that basically any printer should be somewhat able to understand.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373987",
"author": "teabaggs",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T13:33:02",
"content": "it is (its) not an article. it is a forum entry.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374422",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T02:19:33",
"content": "Not very popular, it is.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "788707",
"author": "brouhaha",
"timestamp": "2012-09-18T20:12:03",
"content": "The HP “Redeye” protcol was invented around 1985-86, not in the 1960s. The first published description of the protocol was in the October 1987 issue of Hewlett-Packard Journal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1340576",
"author": "Kristoffer Ek",
"timestamp": "2014-04-11T01:19:37",
"content": "I made the reverse thing: HP-IR-printer-emulator: the source code is here:https://github.com/st0ff3r/Testo-IR-printer_emulator",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1340581",
"author": "Kristoffer Ek",
"timestamp": "2014-04-11T01:23:19",
"content": "video showing “printing” at:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RM3XE1EymNQ",
"parent_id": "1340576",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
}
] | 1,760,377,224.518104
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/04/retrofitting-lcd-projectors-with-high-powered-leds/
|
Retrofitting LCD Projectors With High-powered LEDs
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"home entertainment hacks",
"LED Hacks"
] |
[
"lcd",
"led",
"projector",
"retrofit"
] |
[Devon] recently repaired a handful of Phillips LCD projectors which he was quite excited to use. The only problem is that he didn’t want to mess with replacing the bulbs after every 2000 hours of use at $100 apiece. He was pretty confident that he could
find a better way to drive the projectors
, so he disassembled them once more and started looking around for bulb replacements.
He figured that a high-powered LED would do the trick, so he ordered a handful of parts and went about his first retrofit. Using his oscilloscope, he found that the control board pulses the high voltage board when the projector is powered on, and continues to pulse a signal until the machine is turned off. At this point, the HV board powers down the bulb.
He created a small circuit using a PIC that is used to interpret the initial pulse from the control board as well as watch for the steady “heartbeat” pulses that occur while the projector is powered on. This board is used to control the driver board for the high-powered LED he purchased.
His bulb replacement works well as far as color fidelity is concerned, but is not nearly as bright as he hoped for. He has plans to source some far brighter LEDs or automobile HID lighting in the very near future, and we look forward to seeing if he can match the brightness of the original bulbs.
| 56
| 49
|
[
{
"comment_id": "373679",
"author": "_matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T22:11:42",
"content": "He doesn’t say what LEDs he is using, but Dealextreme has some nice high power LEDs for cheap, I’ve seen some white ones over 900 lumens.Also, if he is using white, could that be the brightness problem? If he used some high power RGB LEDs instead, that would probably help.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1015931",
"author": "Ant Kenworthy",
"timestamp": "2013-06-14T17:58:05",
"content": "Try 90,000 Lumensbetween 500 and 1000wattI think this would burn it..maybe right lens and fan would work well.http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/ledsmaster15/product-detailEeWmZyiMECka/China-500-1000watt-High-Power-LED-Light-LS-HPEPY-.html",
"parent_id": "373679",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "373689",
"author": "Keith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T22:27:20",
"content": "What?! No Arduino?! ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "374127",
"author": "stefodestructo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:52:33",
"content": "Please stop beating that dead horse of a joke.Its not funny anymore.",
"parent_id": "373689",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "373690",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T22:31:13",
"content": "I wonder if he could increase the power by instead making an LED source that is not White, but a mix of powerful R/G/B LEDs. You are losing a lot of lumens form the conversion of the UV/blue LED->Phosphor->LCD color filters. Cut the phosphor conversion out of the picture.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6300085",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2020-12-03T23:23:16",
"content": "Yes, but you lose a TON of colour accuracy doing that. The ideal bulb for image quality is an incandecent with a relatively full spectrum, but 3 leds would just have 3 spikes of 3 frequencies of light. AKA only those frequencies of red blue and green would illuminate",
"parent_id": "373690",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "373693",
"author": "Dax",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T22:41:23",
"content": "I he didn’t have to send anything back, then why did he have to use a PIC?Two transistors and a capacitor would have done the job.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373694",
"author": "GameboyRMH",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T22:43:21",
"content": "Good idea Erik.Also even if he ends up resorting to automotive HID lighting, that’s still a big improvement from real projector bulbs in cost. I wonder how much power it would use vs. the stock bulb though.The power control system seems unnecessarily overcomplicated, if the LED power system is completely separate, why not just put it on a relay triggered by some other power circuit?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373698",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T22:49:11",
"content": "@Erik: The LCD absorbs something like 90% of the visible light passing through regardless whether it is white from phosphors in a white LED or white from a mixture of red, green and blue LEDs.There was a nice project in Elektor a while ago where a guy retrofitted a DLP projector with RGB leds but he did away with the spinning oclor filter disk. In theory 100% of the light gets though to the screen, although the duty cycle of each color is still only 33%.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3347132",
"author": "Robert",
"timestamp": "2017-01-02T17:40:12",
"content": "the reason this is such a stupid mod, and I must admit, I tried it my first time around just because I had seen so many people do it and claim excellent results but it was awful. a projection light source needs to be a focused point. you can use a fly eye lens or flared fibre optic collimator to focus it. but they dont. so what you’re doing is using a single led from the array as your focussed light source with, in his case, using 24 other LEDs as essentially noise. total output of the projector is now 4% before loses with 96% of the light just being scattered and ruining the image. think of it like if you were to stand in the sun, look at your shadow and see the perfect outline. now when you move inside into a comercial building and the 30 odd light bulbs in the room scattered around the place are now giving you multiple blurred overlapping shadows. this is why projection lenses use an arc around a mm wide. the diffusion through the uneven potting compound and phosphor in these only makes it worse.",
"parent_id": "373698",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "373699",
"author": "xeracy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:00:48",
"content": "@Erik – If he were to use separate Red Blue and Green LEDs, there would be no reason to cluster them in the same housing. Assuming his projector splits the single source light into three beams which are then filtered with RGB LCDs and then put back together, it would be easier to make three separate reflectors, one for each color. However, in thinking about it, this really depends on whether the LCDs are colored or black. If they are black, then this would work. However, if there is a red, a blue, and a green LCD, putting a colored filter in front a similarly colored light will have no effect, so it would only make sense to begin with a white source.That all being said, I believe that this would look HORRIBLE in respect to color rendering. If you have ever mixed Red, Green and Blue LED light to make white, you will know how bad it looks. This is due to LEDs producing only a narrow band of wavelengths. No matter how you mix those narrow bands, you will be missing all the wavelengths in between them, which makes the color look muddy to the human eye (which is actually being tricked into seeing a color that does not exist).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373703",
"author": "dcroy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:07:23",
"content": "@daxthe projector controls the light source by giving a 5 second pulse, followed by a square waveform pulse of 1 ms, the high voltage board gives an active low signal to the control board… i wanted the projector for function exactly as it did with a regular bulb, without any extra switches or knobsi tried doing this using transistor logic and a 555 as a latch but wasn’t able to get it working the way i wanted to, i went with a pic micro controller simply because i haven’t used them before and wanted to expand the range of micro controllers i could use@by_matt i actually used an led emitter, reflector and power supply from dealextreme… i guess i forgot to mention that, the parts can be sourced anywhere really",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "8145282",
"author": "Endryc",
"timestamp": "2025-07-04T12:21:49",
"content": "Men. I want to do tje same thing yo an Epson. Can You help me to understand that pulses. I se it with the osc Buy i won’t be able to capture the hole idea. Thanks a Lot fot share.",
"parent_id": "373703",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "373708",
"author": "Bill D. Williams",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:11:50",
"content": "What about the LEDs? They don’t put out the full spectrum of white light do they? I actually think that LEDs are the WRONG light for this application.(Not to mention it’s very foolish to think they would be bright enough)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373711",
"author": "monopole",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:13:42",
"content": "@by_mattThis is probably the 25W white 2000 lumen unit. They run about $30 on eBay. !00w 8000 lumen untis are available for ~$75. Basically these are arrays of 1W LED dies. The downside is that UHP lamp based projectors have a limited entendue (i.e.area x angle of emission) which leads to diminishing returns at some point.RGB LEDs would be better if they were matched to the interference filters in the light engine.Increasingly, UHP bulbs are the ink cartridges of the projector world serving as the profit center on cheap projectors.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373713",
"author": "dcroy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:15:57",
"content": "@xeracy the original lamp is a 120watt uhp lamp providing about 1000 ansi lumens at 6500kthe light passes through a prism, several lenses and an array of polarized beamsplitters and polarized filters to produce discrete rbg sources for each lcd, which is them passed through a polarized combining prism and to the projection lensi had though of bypassing the beamsplitters entirely and having a red blue and green led directly illuminate the lcd panels through the polarized filters and collimator lensesi might try that at a later date when i get another 3 lcd projector to play with",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373720",
"author": "HARaaM",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:25:50",
"content": "http://cgi.ebay.com/1PC-BRIGHTEST-100W-WATT-HIGH-POWER-WHITE-LED-7000LM-/320674481558?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa9b04596Would one of these work?http://Bomarc.org",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373722",
"author": "xeracy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:28:35",
"content": "@dcroy- I wouldn’t recommend using RGB LEDs. The color you get when the three sources are mixed will look GHASTLY. Filter white light, it will look the best, be it LED or not.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373723",
"author": "_matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:32:32",
"content": "Question, since we’re talking about spectrum of blue light + phosphor versus actual rgb sources, would there be any improvement to adding more of the phosphor? Source it from cfl bulbs :DAlso,@monopole, Dealextreme has recently acquired higher efficiency white LEDs (>80 lumens/watt), which was why I mentioned it. They are still the multi-1W-modules, but with better modules on them.I’ve also seen high power red, green, and blue leds for cheap, so if dcroy goes with that idea (bypassing the splitters), I’d definitely like to hear an update.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373727",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:42:31",
"content": "@GameboyRMH from the blog “powering the led comes to about 30 watts, one quarter of the power consumed by original bulb” To address your power consumption question.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373731",
"author": "uky",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T00:11:57",
"content": "Nice finding the heartbeat pulse, when I tried this I just soldered some wires to the pcb joint where the AC wire attached and added a separate switch in the case.On the LCD projector that I’ve worked with, the bulb shines a light down a corridor which uses mirrors to split the light into three different paths, which then shine through 3 lcd screens, and are focused again through the lens as a composite image. I was planning, but haven’t had the time, to remove the colored mirrors and just put three high powered LEDs behind each LCD. The benefit: You have room to fit in 3 LEDs instead of just one, and save on the light lost to the filters. Though you probably should have some sort of diffuser to avoid vignetting.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373736",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T00:34:06",
"content": "@xeracy very true, I hadn’t thought about directing them at their respective panels skipping the splitters!I understand that LEDs typically only output 1 fixed wavelength, so your colors may be off doing so unless your projector allow you to tweak the individual levels (service menu?). If possible remove the color filters, too…I believe some DLP TVs use separate RGB LEDs in place of a color wheel/lamp combo, maybe you could source those somewhere…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373738",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T00:36:48",
"content": "i bought a ezpro 550 on ebay for $30, i need to either a: buy a 400 watt, 36 volt bulb for it(under $10 and life from 50-500 hours or b: retrofit, sofar a 50w car headlight produces an acceptable 20-30 inch image but who buys a projector for that?thinking chinese car HID retrofit kit($30 or so)the nice thing about this projector, the lamp has NOTHING to do with the lcd hardware, as long as a light source is provided it will projectsadly, full size HID wont work without some fancy lenses(thinking about trying some mirrors and having a “base” the projector sits on containing a 400w metal halide that bends around to the light input(front of the projector)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373739",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T00:38:14",
"content": "When I worked at Christie Digital they were just coming out with their LED projectors. They were the one engineers baby. The heatsink for the LED was massive. But at least it didn’t need forced cooling the same way the multi killowatt xenon bulbs did. I wish I knew more about it, but I didn’t have access to its schematics :(But LED projectors are a realistic solution. It’s just a matter of multi hundred lumen LEDs and adequate heatsinking.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373740",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T00:39:25",
"content": "oh, also, the die up /\\ looks like a standard 100w “led” on ebay, they are down to $50/shipped from hond kong actually, anyone know if theres higher wattages available like 150 or 200?leds are <3",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373759",
"author": "Killbox",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T01:52:06",
"content": "I did this with a 1000 lumen panel from Dealextreme, and i got about 10 lumen out the other side.wound up using the led bank and heatsync as a worklight.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373769",
"author": "hekilledmywire",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T02:33:24",
"content": "What about focusing the new light source, it must be in focus.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373800",
"author": "aEx155",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T04:06:14",
"content": "If I may:I wouldn’t trust any of the ratings on brandless “High-Brightness” LEDs sold at Deal Extreme and eBay. Its obvious that most ratings are exaggerations.Currently, the brightest LED you can buy are those from the PhlatLight series, produced by Luminus (http://www.luminus.com/). Currently, they have 50w, 90w, and even 360w LEDs in production, and they are very popular in the homemade flashlight building community. With proper heatsinking, people have pushed 10+ amps through these LEDs to reach incredible brightnesses.While the LEDs from Luminus cost a fair bit more than those from DealExtreme, you will certainly get better performance, and its possible to build a bulb for the same price that would last 5 times as long.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373801",
"author": "jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T04:09:03",
"content": "I’m glad to see someone with some reasonable success at this!the collimator lens is probably the most critical part of this. Lucky for him to have one on hand!great project",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373861",
"author": "Frollard",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T07:16:18",
"content": "The problem with using a bulb like this is even with the reflector, it’s still got a WIDE beam, and most projectors need the light collimated (parallel) and focussed on at most 2-3 square cm, particularly for dlp with a colour wheel.The original bulb has a central emitter in a parabolic reflector to create the required light. The LED spits out 180 which gets focussed down a bit, but you still need another collimating lens to REALLY make use of the light coming out, otherwise it’s mostly wasted.My projector is dying and when it does, I’ll be doing a 100w retrofit. I will have to use a reflector to get the light into a somewhat conical shape, then a collimator to get it down to the tiny colour wheel hole.Lastly, it would be awesome to use an ‘rgb’ source, but they never exceed 10w in my experience, and you need to make sure the dies are close, diffused, and mixed properly before entering the light path or you’ll have uneven lighting of each colour. Then it would be trivial to interpret the colour wheel encoder signal with an mcu to pulse the correct colour while the wheel is physically removed. This is how the pocket projectors work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373869",
"author": "HughJourbe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T07:41:44",
"content": "“why did he have to use a PIC?Two transistors and a capacitor would have done the job.”You must be new here.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373876",
"author": "dcroy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T07:56:49",
"content": "the collimator lens i had wasn’t perfect but was the right sizeone thing i was thinking of was using a Fresnel lend to get most of the light going in one direction, quite a bit is being wasted by spilling out in all directions even with the reflector and lens, although both helped considerably",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373881",
"author": "Figgesoft",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T08:35:41",
"content": "Well done!I have the same plans for a philips hopper sv10 which is resting somewhere in my storage… I’ve been thinking of HID 4300k kit with 50watts consumption.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373889",
"author": "dcroy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T08:49:32",
"content": "i also have a hopper sv10 that i replaced a burnt out polarizer on, and a second one that drove me up the wall trying to align the beam splitters on (really not worth the effort to, quite maddening really)the interface should be identical but the hv board is harder to get at and requires taking apart most of it to removethe control interface will be a thin bundle of 3 wires going from somewhere on the right side of the lower control board to the hv board",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373977",
"author": "Pragma",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T13:19:56",
"content": "Another, more immediate concern for some projectors I’ve seen out there: the blue filter tends to “burn” or change in opacity due to exposure to UV emitted by typical projector bulbs. I have no idea how much UV is emitted by LEDs, but I would like to think that going full-LED from the start would be a great way to get a lot of mileage out of a new projector.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374005",
"author": "Privacy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T14:08:16",
"content": "It is always going to be a compromise, LED’s with good clour rendering have significantly lower light output, so you may need a few more than with something with a low Ra.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374006",
"author": "Privacy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T14:09:07",
"content": "Unless the LED is specificaly made to emmit UV, its almost a non-event with LEDs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374007",
"author": "Privacy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T14:14:53",
"content": "Cree has a newish LED, I don;t see it on their website, but managed to get 3 samples from them, The CXA20 is an 11W 42V, 270mA LED pushing 1040lm with a CRI rating of 78, there is also a 900lm version with a CRI rateing of 82, illustrating my earlier comment. These are realy impressive LEDs, I did a test the other night just useing my camera’s light meter, a 15W cfl, required a 1/20s exposure while the LED running at 10W only needed 1/10.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374022",
"author": "blue balls",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T15:09:44",
"content": "ebay… at least a 50 watt is needed 100 watt bulb will do even better.. it wall all still be cheaper than buying a replacement bulb.. plus why not just make a hole and run the driver out of the shell.. you need a heat sink anyway so why complicate things",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374082",
"author": "Steve",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T16:41:14",
"content": "Or you could go all out and just buy a 6000 lumen LED for $140 from mouser. It’s rated for 60,000 hours and you can buy varying shades of white.http://www.luminus.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/0/5b2bab98d54138d7a9ba350782e510bf/miscdocs/pds_001353_csm_360_w_rev05.pdf",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374099",
"author": "h3llphyre",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:22:05",
"content": "Another option (which I’m doing in a project unrelated to this) is to use 3-5W LEDs, with 5 degree optics on each, and build up an array of them. Better heat dispersion, cheaper, and easier to somewhat focus the light. With the “clip on” optics for star mount LEDs (20mm stars), the “lumens” output is multiplied when you only want light going in one direction (small beam angle).Just a thought.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374154",
"author": "Pietro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:27:12",
"content": "I have made an LED lamp for an Eiki 16mm film projector. I used LEDengin’s 40 Watt 9mm “pin point” lamp, which of all the one’s I have tried provides the most illumination from a single point of any high power LED on the market. It comes in 3 color temperatures too. The big issue with retrofitting is the focus of the light. Halogen lamps are pin point sources that can be directed nicely with a simple reflector. LED lamps are arrays of pin-point sources that are much more difficult to focus. They also have to be run at much lower temperatures then halogen, so you need room for a big heat sink. If you are building your own heat sink for a high power LED you need to have a big chunk of solid aluminium right behind the LED (1″ by 2″ by 1″ should do it). This gets the heat away from the LED very quickly. Then you can run your fins off of that. The one I used was custom machined so that if housed the LED and my custom reflector, with the fins in front. I found that using a long reflective columator (made out of tin-foil no less) gave the best results for focusing on to the 16mm gate. The columator was 2.5″ long. One advantage of using tin foil is that you won’t be able to make a perfectly smooth reflector. This helps you out because the LED lamp is made up of several tiny points which will all show up on your screen unless they are blurred together. You can do this by having a slightly crinkly reflector (very slightly), or using ground glass (which eats about 0.5 EV). It should be easier to focus onto a larger gate (such as the ones in video projectors). In the end, the lamp provides 1 EV less light then the original halogen, but at a better color temperature. So not a bad result. Typical lumens out of a 16 mm film projector are 680 for a halogen source. This can be boosted to 840 with some power-supply hacking, and the LED provides about 500 I think (sorry .. could not find my spreadsheet with the final data .. but if you do the EV calculations in reverse if is 1 EV less then 840 lumens).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374202",
"author": "macona",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:07:56",
"content": "Car headlights are only about 35 watts. Figure that most of the projectors I have had use a 200 watt lamp you are going to have issues.I started playing around with this same concept. I have a small little infocus DLP projector I was messing with to do the same.Another issue is matching the LED to the filters. Even white LEDs emit light with a three color (Red, Green, Blue) phosphor mixed to create the desired color. If the filters do not match the peaks of the red, green, and blue wavelengths of the led there will be a good amount of light lost to absorbition.Plus with the price of projectors being as cheap as they are (1080 epson under $1000) its really hard to mess around. Also there are guys that offer raw lamps to rebuild your original lamp assembly at a fraction of the cost of new.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374204",
"author": "Lars Haeh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:13:27",
"content": "My projector uses a 135W NSH lamp. I found I could just use a 150W aquarium metal halide lamp in it. I had to cut the outside glass open, add a reflector and UV filter to it, but it works fine and was only $7 including shipping from ebay. I just hope the power supply is ok with the extra output.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "2977731",
"author": "Jason",
"timestamp": "2016-04-04T19:30:46",
"content": "Hi there!I realize that this comment was made 5 years ago already, but would you mind providing a few more details? I recently aquired an LCD projector with a half-spent 120W UHM lamp stock. I’m looking into replacing that with something brighter and with a little more life left in it. Your aquarium light idea is intriguing to say the least!",
"parent_id": "374204",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "374297",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:07:09",
"content": "They just lit the Caterpillar plant here in Lafayette with LED’s. It’s the largest setup in the world! They had ugly sodium light before. Energy savings 30%, colour rendering greater for sure.Price undisclosed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375058",
"author": "Bakamoichigei",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T00:43:44",
"content": "I’ve been thinking about replacing the high-powered bulb in my DLP projector with an LED solution for a while now, glad to see someone could pull it off.There’s all sorts of crazy LED modules on Dealextreme, including ones that put out like 1500 lumens.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375876",
"author": "passmadd",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T00:41:29",
"content": "Hi Guys.Hay dcroy, love the work so far, especially the control for the projector. i just used the grounding trick on mine and have had no problems during testing so far :)I am in the middle of a hack like this and have done nearly the same using a 50w LED.The problem is the spot point of the light.A standad arc lamp in a projector has a light source of 1-2mm (about 4mm square). The 50W square LED’s have a source in excess of 600MM (25*25mm). focussing this in to a paraell beam about 100mm square is near impossible without some optical design and manufacturing equiptment (i spent a long time looking in to this).With LED projectors, there are some ways to cheat.1. something big with a small focal point like an SST-90 which will average about 2000 lm on about 25mm square. i have run one of these at about 700-1000lm through my projector, and with the reflector i have (no collominating lens at that time) it gave much better results than the 50W LED. This is the final LED i am using, and i am making the psu now (3.7v @ 9a)2. in my projector (Epson EMP74 i think) there is easy access to each LCD, and a coloured lens filter in front of each (as well as the coloured beam splitters). passing white light directly through this gives some good results (and bypasses a butt load of optics). Three of the above SST-90’s should get 50-75% power out this way.Even though the SST-90 is less powerful, the ability to focus the beam makes more light get to the end (plus the alignment of the beam through the optics is critical, i have a great pic of this somewhere)Unfortunatly these chips heat up, but no where near to a 200W HID bulb. With a good copper heatsink and the projectors own cooling, its possible to keep it all cool.I am in the middle of creating the PSU for mine (thats for the help Hackaday forums and the great people there) and when done, hackaday will be the first place i come to lol.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "492361",
"author": "suhas patil",
"timestamp": "2011-10-27T11:54:33",
"content": "any one tried car HID lamp in LCD projector ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "554333",
"author": "ensastiga",
"timestamp": "2012-01-09T09:50:58",
"content": "I’m working on retrofitting my Epson Powerlite S3 with an HP LED. so far I’m thinking of buying thishttp://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S009871but 200 bucks exceeds my budget, so in the meantime I’ll go for thishttp://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SH-1x-100W-Cool-WHITE-LED-Lamp-5500-6000K-Bright-Light-High-Power-KD7-/300645874069?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45ffe3f995#ht_2846wt_956Due to the nature of the lamp case of my projector (it comes with a collimator lens) I’m expecting not to have big problems on the light source focal point issue.My only problem will be to fit the right cooling device on the small space that is left on the lamp compartment.I’ll keep posting my progress",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "613463",
"author": "12koehlean",
"timestamp": "2012-03-27T16:08:56",
"content": "I have a Epson EX71 and i manged to fix a 2500 lumen 30watt led in the existing bulb housing, but i am having a problem tricking the projector into thinking that the factory bulb is installed. I have tried a dirrect short to the board from the sending opto isolator, anybody have any ideas?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "896344",
"author": "Brad",
"timestamp": "2012-12-03T18:39:48",
"content": "I just finished my projector and it is working great with the bulb that I found. This is the write up for it.http://www.instructables.com/id/Convert-A-Projector-To-An-LED-Light-Source/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1015932",
"author": "Ant Kenworthy",
"timestamp": "2013-06-14T18:10:23",
"content": "What is the maximum power led we can use, it says they have 50,000 hrs use, and are far more robust as long as they stay cool with the correct heat sink and maybe no fan required if heat pipes used so ultra efficent and quite.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0O13IOBXX0",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6232200",
"author": "mishal",
"timestamp": "2020-03-28T10:32:38",
"content": "i done this with a ‘infocus’ manufactured projecter but still it shows the lamp is complaint and turns offi could only estimate that the 2000 hour working will be programmed in the main board itself so it wouldnt turn on?",
"parent_id": "1015932",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "1015934",
"author": "Ant Kenworthy",
"timestamp": "2013-06-14T18:33:55",
"content": "http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feature=fvwp&v=1jdpP46jx1Q",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "6495539",
"author": "BotherSaidPooh",
"timestamp": "2022-07-20T20:48:19",
"content": "Use old harvested LEDs from surplus TV backlighting. Also relevant: it’s perfectly possible as others say to rip out the optics and put a diode panel behind each screen.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,224.656312
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/04/class-up-your-next-party-with-the-drink-making-unit-2-0/
|
Class Up Your Next Party With The Drink Making Unit 2.0
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Beer Hacks",
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"alcohol",
"atmega",
"bar"
] |
The crew over at [Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories] has been hard at work preparing for the Barbot 2011 cocktail robotic exhibition. This year, they are packing some serious drinking fun with the
Drink Making Unit 2.0
. The predictably named follow-up to last year’s wildly popular
Drink Making Unit
doubles the mixing capability with six, rather than three fluids, and provides a visually stimulating drink mixing experience.
While they are similarly named, the new unit has been completely redesigned since last year. No longer are they relying on breast pumps to move the alcohol along. Instead, they are using compressed air to dispense fluids from wash bottles which were constructed from laboratory beakers. The fluids are measured in specially altered graduated cylinders that are designed to tip over and release their contents when the appropriate amount of alcohol has been poured. These cylinders are designed to mimic the movement of Japanese garden fixtures called “deer chasers”, tipping back and forth solely powered by the ingress and egress of liquid.
The dispenser’s control panel houses an ATmega164, which orchestrates the entire operation. It interfaces with the LED driver boards that make up the display via SPI. The micro controller is also tasked with monitoring when the graduated cylinders tip their libations into the dispensing funnel, which is done using IR LEDs and photogates.
It’s a great looking machine, and while there isn’t any drink mixing video as of yet, we can’t wait to see it in action.
| 7
| 7
|
[
{
"comment_id": "373670",
"author": "Rich",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T21:37:11",
"content": "What a party piece. I could see this behind a glass plate at some bar fascinating anyone that orders a drink. And then the more you drink the more entertaining it becomes.. It would sell itself. I wish they had gone with a clear funnel though; The white plastic one feels out of place. Still awesome though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373833",
"author": "jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T05:54:59",
"content": "a clear plastic or pyrex funnel would be astonishingly awesome in that.so wanting to see videos",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373894",
"author": "TheKhakinator",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T09:24:07",
"content": "I worked with a bunch of 14/15 year old school kids who did this project with 3 fluids. Kinda rough though, just used windscreen washer pumps. :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374041",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T15:42:30",
"content": "wonder if it would handle carbonated drinks as mixers?!?Could easily be modified to be controlled from touch screen, select the cocktail and it automatically mixes and pours, although they need to find a way to stir the drink after – or shake it if your 007! and add an option for ice maybe??",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374128",
"author": "erniejunior",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:54:45",
"content": "There is actually a video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2PD7w2etsUYes, its just 6 seconds …",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "414351",
"author": "black soap",
"timestamp": "2011-07-07T19:28:18",
"content": "Beakers, or flasks?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "420330",
"author": "denispax",
"timestamp": "2011-07-20T18:35:01",
"content": "Brightly, beautifully, very much all is correct!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,224.564803
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/04/kinect-hack-makes-april-fools-prank-a-reality/
|
Kinect Hack Makes April Fools’ Prank A Reality
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Kinect hacks",
"News"
] |
[
"april fools",
"faast",
"gmail motion",
"Kinect"
] |
Unless you have been hiding out in a cave for the last week or so, you have heard about this year’s April Fools’ joke from Google. Gmail Motion was purported to be an action-driven interface for Gmail, complete with goofy poses and gestures for completing everyday email tasks. Unfortunately it was all an elaborate joke and no gesture-based Gmail interface is forthcoming…at least not from Google.
The team over at the USC Institute for Creative Technologies
have stepped up
and made
Google’s hoax
a reality. You might remember these guys from their Kinect-based World of Warcraft interface which used body motions to emulate in-game keyboard actions. Using their Flexible Action and Articulated Skeleton Toolkit (FAAST), they developed a Kinect interface for Gmail which they have dubbed the Software Library Optimizing Obligatory Waving (SLOOW).
Their skeleton tracking software allows them to use all of the faux gestures Google dreamed up for controlling your inbox, however impractical they might be. We love a good April Fools’ joke, but we really enjoy when they become reality via some clever thinking.
Stick around for a video demo of the SLOOW interface in action.
[via
Adafruit
]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lfso7_i9Ko8&w=470]
| 14
| 14
|
[
{
"comment_id": "373621",
"author": "Drew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:18:55",
"content": "It would be really cool if somebody could get the Kinect to read sign language.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373623",
"author": "Squintz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:23:05",
"content": "I call BS.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373630",
"author": "mike nelson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:37:28",
"content": "Awesome, i like it! now i want the “Magic Smoke Refilling Kit” from sparkfun to become real!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373631",
"author": "Okian Warrior",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:38:18",
"content": "Interpreting sign language is a laudable idea.ASL (American Sign Language) does not have fixed rules for the signs. Anything that “looks close” to the sign you want and won’t be misinterpreted *in context* is considered OK.I’ve even seen variation on the finger-spelling alphabet.A fluent friend of mine tells me that there are a large number of nuances, modifiers, and jargon. For example, saying “I like” is one nuance, but saying it while leaning forward puts emphasis on the phrase, turning it into “really like it” or the colloquial “love it” depending.OTOH, a fixed set of ASL Kinect gestures might popularize a more formal and strict definition of the signs.To really do this, you will need feedback from someone who actually speaks the language.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373637",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:50:51",
"content": "FAAST and SLOOW… ;)I’d love to try this out and probably code my own applications for the Kinect but I don’t have one because I don’t even own an XBOX ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373644",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T20:11:02",
"content": "4-4-2+0+1+1",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373651",
"author": "CRJEEA",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T20:33:37",
"content": "I don’t have an Xbox either… Didn’t stop me buying a kinect cheap at the local carboot sale (:",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373657",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T21:00:52",
"content": "This is a good way to get hired by Google…and have your project buried in the desert in Saudi Arabia.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373665",
"author": "cde",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T21:14:38",
"content": "Screw that. Boring.Now… The starcraft 2 kinect interface, that be amazing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373839",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T06:22:33",
"content": "I wondered how long it would be before someone did this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373870",
"author": "Gordon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T07:45:00",
"content": "Ok, Thats all well and good but when is someone going to hack together a real spaghetti tree.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27ugSKW4-QQhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spaghetti_tree_hoaxGordon",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374068",
"author": "Davius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T16:14:28",
"content": "@Drew and @Okian WarriorSeveral groups are working on the ASL support as we speak. Also, ASL support was included in the patent application Microsoft filed for the Kinect.http://www.joystiq.com/2010/12/20/kinect-hacks-american-sign-language-recognition/http://www.gamespot.com/news/6272656.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374654",
"author": "Xheis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T10:41:24",
"content": "http://www.google.com/google-d-s/promos/motion.htmlBest of the Gmail Motion options.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "423134",
"author": "austin",
"timestamp": "2011-07-26T15:33:15",
"content": "@cde: speech recognition has a ways to go yet to make that reasonable. while it could make manipulation of troops easier, that is specifically the roles held out for the mouse, keyboard macros would require something more complex, voiced commands would fill that role nicely, but they must work, 100% of the time and fucking fast. if it can’t fill the role of a keyboard it will fail against a keyboard and mouse.(gestures are just out of the question…for roughly the same reason)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,224.709984
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/04/rfid-drink-system-eliminates-the-need-for-change/
|
RFID Drink System Eliminates The Need For Change
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"home hacks"
] |
[
"arduino",
"rfid"
] |
[Avatar-X] snagged a drink vending machine online a few years back, and has been selling drinks to his neighbors ever since. People are always asking him for change, and just the other day he was thirsty and out of change himself. He considered adding an override key so that he could snag free drinks whenever he pleased, but decided to go all out and
built a cash card system instead
.
He didn’t know how to interface with the machine’s logic board, so after poring over the service manual he consulted with a support rep from the company that manufactured it. Luckily, he was able to get enough information from them to start making some headway. With his friend’s assistance, he was able to figure out which pins on the Bill Validator Interface needed to be shorted in order to simulate the addition of funds.
Using an Arduino with an Ethernet shield, LCD display, and an RFID reader, he had his PopCARD system up and running in no time. Now all his neighbors have to do when they want a drink is swipe their card in front of the machine and hit a button to add funds from their account.
As you can see in the video below it works great, and we’re sure his neighbors are pleased with the improvements he has made.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b88BoPQTxJg&w=470]
| 61
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "373579",
"author": "Bryan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:14:15",
"content": "I can’t wait for the first one of his neighbors to spoof his card and get free drinks",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373580",
"author": "Cold_Turkey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:14:41",
"content": "What about the change from the $3.00? what happens to the remaining 60 cents? Does it get put back on the card?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373583",
"author": "Angela",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:17:18",
"content": "For a moment I thought that this was describing also allowing users to add funds at the POS, but that appears to not be what’s happening. Nice interface between machine and Arduino, however “add $1.00 is really ambiguous. Are you adding $1.00 to the RFID card, or to the machine till? Probably would be easier to understand if it said “Spend $1.00”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373585",
"author": "av",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:18:15",
"content": "@Bryan: Sure, but the pop machine is monitored by a video camera, and the transactions are all logged and time-stamped in a database :) But did you know that Dealextreme sells an RFID card duplicator for like, $60?!@Cold_Turkey: The prices are all set at $1, $2 and $3 to minimize change. But if change is required, it is dispensed via the coin changer already built into the machine — it dispenses dollar coins, quarters, nickels, and dimes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373589",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:30:14",
"content": "Awesome example of someone who cant use a HOLE SAW.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373590",
"author": "av",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:33:46",
"content": "@Life2Death: Why is it that on a website devoted to hacking, people seem to ignore the hack and focus on the unrelated or mundane stuff?A hole saw won’t cut through cardstock without destroying it. I used a knife, and I know it looks crummy, but it’s not a commercial product or anything. Why does this bother you so much?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373591",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:37:33",
"content": "Haters gonna hate.Personally, I like the system.How are cards topped up, people just give you the money and you update the database? What happens if the DB is inaccessible (ethernet cable is yanked etc.)? How are IDs stored on the card, an incremental integer or a pseudo-random string?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373592",
"author": "av",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:37:57",
"content": "@Angela: Thanks! It actually does say Spend $1 on the screen, and naturally I give a demonstration to a new person when I sell them the PopCARD.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373593",
"author": "Rich_in_van",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:38:14",
"content": "@Life2Death:I love Internet trolls – post up your awesome projects so we can nitpick at your stuff!I agree – the cutout needs a little work, but who cares? Last time I checked, this wasn’t a site devoted to commercial-quality hacks?Get a life. Fer Srs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373594",
"author": "av",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:40:00",
"content": "@Pedro: Thanks :)They give me money and I update the DB, exactly. If the DB is inaccessible or the cable is yanked or the server is down, the software running on the Arduino puts a message on the screen, “offline – use coins”. But I am not expecting it to be offline often.The RFID cards I have are not programmable and already contain a unique 10-digit alphanumeric ID. I just store this ID in the database.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373595",
"author": "TrollAWay",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:40:43",
"content": "av, welcome to Troll a Day.It is like a hacking site, except all the commenters do is piss and moan about insignificant things such as grammar, rough cardstock cuts, or the use of Arduinos instead of getting off their asses and building anything interesting themselves.Enjoy your stay!Also, awesome hack! If half these people had a fraction of the creativity you possess, this would be a far more pleasant place!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373596",
"author": "Kaj",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:45:00",
"content": "@av: Don’t worry about it. There’s someone in every posting…“What? He built an electric car out of an El Camino and old laptops? PFff.. Should have used a Ranchero!”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373597",
"author": "Em",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:46:12",
"content": "Excellent hack! Well done!Ignore the trolls! :o)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373601",
"author": "swighton",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:50:51",
"content": "Although the appearance of the card-stock has no bearing on the performance of the device, it has a huge impact on the perceived quality – especially when it is juxtaposed next to such high quality artwork, and if I’m not mistaken is being used commercially.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373603",
"author": "oxymoron",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:55:46",
"content": "Here’s a cool commecial version. We have one where I work and I use it all the time.http://drinkecowell.com/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373607",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:57:30",
"content": "Cardstock? I thought pop machines were plastic?If its cardstock, then nevermind. It looked like it was meant to be outside, in the elements, not paper.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373610",
"author": "Henrik Pedersen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:03:45",
"content": "The guy at AvBrand just can’t stop doing cool stuff… o.O",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373613",
"author": "Arduitter",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:07:28",
"content": "I like it. The best part of it is that he really had the problem and came up with this SOLUTION. Now, problem solved. Awesome job.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373617",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:11:24",
"content": "I love how he used the 1-UP sound from Super Mario for the Add Coin Button :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373624",
"author": "av",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:25:03",
"content": "@TrollAway: Yeah :) I actually come from more of a programming background and am still learning basic digital electronics. The arduino was a huge eye-opener for me; allowing me to leverage my existing coding skills without needing to learn about assembly language, hardware-specific code, or delve too much into complex things like interrupts.@swighton: By “commercially” I mean I’m not selling the system, it is just for use by me and my neighbors. It’s just a cardboard cover — I can always upgrade it if I find a better way to cut it.@oxymoron: Sounds neat! There are kits that allow you to add a system like mine to vending machines, but they run $700-$2000 and I didn’t want to spend that much.@Life2Death: Well, my machine is actually made out of steel and weighs 750lbs empty. But it is indoors, so the cardboard will work just fine.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373628",
"author": "Ben Wright",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:36:56",
"content": "The cutout also bugs me. It’s not the fact that the cutout is crocked – the button appears to be an arcade button that has a flange to cover the hole cutout. I like the ideal of the project and the rest of the hardware implementation. I wouldn’t use the button thinking someone before me smashed it through the hole.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373633",
"author": "GTech",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:41:09",
"content": "So is this in an apartment building? They let you have a pop machine out there? Do they take some of the profit?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373636",
"author": "Standard Mischief",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:50:11",
"content": "Neato.If I buy a coke with a popcard for 80 cents, do I get change back or credit to my account?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373638",
"author": "av",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:54:55",
"content": "@GTech: The owner and I are tight, so he doesn’t mind me having the machine there.@Standard Mischief: I actually apply the discount when the money is added to the account. So the price of a coke at the machine is always $1.00, but if you give me money for a PopCARD, I give you 25% extra. So $20 will turn into $25 on the PopCARD. This works out to make the price of a coke 80 cents.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373640",
"author": "Shadyman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T20:02:54",
"content": "I agree… Troll-a-day, haters gonna hate, etc, but this is pretty sweet :DGood job!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373645",
"author": "liard nelson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T20:11:42",
"content": "to give it a more professional look, you could put plexiglass over the Cardboard. This makes it also more weather-resistant, and you could fit your Button into it. It will also be more vandalism-proof.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373648",
"author": "error404",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T20:19:09",
"content": "Very cool project, I like that it actually solves a real problem for real users, but still very much a hack. And the basic reversing you managed to do with limited information is nice too.I’m not sure it wouldn’t have been easier to just implement the MDB though, 9-bit multi-processor serial is well supported and the protocol isn’t that complicated.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373658",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T21:03:05",
"content": "Just add some rubber grommet to the hole and it will hide the uneven edges, no biggie :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373660",
"author": "setlahs",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T21:05:52",
"content": "I would probably add a keypad and a 4 digit pin.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "373674",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T21:52:06",
"content": "Good for you :)",
"parent_id": "373660",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "373663",
"author": "Booker T. Worthington",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T21:09:26",
"content": "Nice hack!You might want to investigate the arm cortex for future projects. A bunch of them have on board ethernet and there are plenty of pins for connecting your RFID reader after that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373678",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T22:07:31",
"content": "While it really doesn’t bother me, I have to admit that I noticed the roughness of the hole for the push button switch. Admittingly we can’t know how this shows up when using the machine, but all we see is clear photograph that harshly compares the home shop cut out to the machine perfect switch housing . Like it or not it’s attention to detail, or the lack there of, is what many people notice. Go to a custom car show show or any other exhibit of personal handiwork, you will hear the viewing public discussing what they are seeing amongst themselves. Placing one’s handiwork on the web for display is similar, but rather than comments(critical or complementary) being lost in the murmur of a crowd, they are in hard text. While I decided this wasn’t worthy of comment at first I’m now doing so because of other comments that categorize mildly critical comments as hating or trolling, when generally they are neither.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373686",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T22:24:26",
"content": "Evidently there must be size limit on comments I couldn’t include the following;While they are tools few of us own, and I really don’t know how well one would work on the material to used here, Greenlee chassis punches create the cleanest holes. Many electricians own them. Perhaps you can get one to punch the occasional hole for a beer or soda. If one drills the pilot hole where needed first, it doesn’t take long at all to punch out the hole. I call the chassis punches, because I was first familiar with the through electronic chassis construction, if you get a blank stare ask if they have knock out punches. Here’s a video of there use.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJpc5CeiAtQ",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373750",
"author": "Parcanman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T01:08:13",
"content": "Have you thought about being able to add money to the account with the coin collector?Another suggestion is to do away with the button entirely and instead have the Arduino watch the selection buttons. Since the buttons don’t do anything other than show the price on the LED display until there’s enough money in there, a user could scan their card then hit a selection button, this would tell the Arduino how much they want to spend, then the Arduino would credit it that much and send a signal to the same button they just pressed to release the product.Also, since you would now know what each person’s buying each time, it could figure out what that person’s average favorite is, then when they scan their card it could say “make selection or wait (countdown from 10 seconds) for your usual iced tea”.One more quick idea, find out what everybody’s birthday is, then the first time they scan their card on the date of their birthday, they get a freebie (which could be only the cheapest product you have if you want to keep it cheap).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373753",
"author": "sagmag",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T01:33:26",
"content": "@Doug: “While I decided this wasn’t worthy of comment at first I’m now doing so because of other comments that categorize mildly critical comments as hating or trolling, when generally they are neither.”Really? How about comment #1:“I can’t wait for the first one of his neighbors to spoof his card and get free drinks”and #5:“Awesome example of someone who cant use a HOLE SAW.”I hope those were not the “mildly critical” comments you refer to.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373761",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T02:05:31",
"content": "@Doug – While it’s true that attention to detail is sometimes important, other times it’s the “git er dun” attitude that makes a hack so cool. After all, this is HACK a Day, not Mass Production Ready a Day. To draw on your car analogy, some hacks are like rat rods. The appeal is that someone made something out of nothing, or close to it. Now this project is sort of an end-user oriented deal so it would be nice if it was polished for Joe Public.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373772",
"author": "TrollAWay",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T02:41:35",
"content": "People, this is a vending machine.In the hallway.Of an apartment building.If you live in an apartment, or ever had in the past – does the phrase “fit and finish” really come to mind?It is not a Porsche, it is not a surgical instrument, it is not the LHC. So the cut is a bit ragged – is that all there is to talk/debate about re: this hack?How about some constructive ideas like Parcanman suggests?For instance:I agree with Parcanman on the button thing – perhaps it can be done away with altogether. One way of doing so could be to automatically load the machine with the $3 maximum you have already defined(or the total amount left in a user’s account, if less than $3). Once a purchase has been made there could be a 15-second timeout after which the remaining funds are restored to the user’s account automatically. No need for change dispensing at all if items are purchased with the card.Less things for users to do, less things for users to break to break, one less hole for the complainers to complain about :)I’m off – it’s time to work on my Rube Goldberg machine constructed entirely out of Arduinos!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373783",
"author": "av",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T03:26:21",
"content": "I really like the idea of determining what the user wants by intercepting the button presses… but I’d need 27 more data lines to do it (shift register or something).-9 to sense the buttons-9 to press the buttons-9 to attach to the “sold out” switches so the system doesn’t try to buy you a drink that it doesn’t have available.But it seems like it is overcomplicating it for a system that works quite well as it is.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373796",
"author": "James Holden",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T04:03:00",
"content": "this is going to be on a lot of machines in the near future.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373829",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T05:51:06",
"content": "Few big problems here.First depending on the cards he used the codes are well known and easy to brute force with hardware thats easily made.RFID is not secure its useful when people dont know its employed.If you wanna get really creative hacking this , youd figure out a way to stick an antenna near the device and just clone different users cards then use them randomly at random times. Hard to trace, hard to stop (requires new cards) . Personally Id buy a change machine. Seems cheaper in the long run.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373845",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T06:41:11",
"content": "We had a similar system back when I was in school. They scrapped it pretty quickly after random people would hit the ‘add funds’ button repeatedly after someone has swiped their card.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373928",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T10:46:30",
"content": "Actually a hole punch is needed, but if this is cardstock it will eventually get shabby. This as is is way better than duct tape label or hard to read insert for price. Both and more are seen on commercial machines. Did someone say hack, I have made several hole punches from steel tubing of various size, to suit the job. Sand end square, hold and rotate at angle to belt till sharp to inside edge. Just as good as the cast and machined ones. Place and whack. Perfect circles or holes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373956",
"author": "cj",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T12:32:06",
"content": "Change is inevitable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373974",
"author": "Ros",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T13:10:10",
"content": "I love this project, but I think if you’re smart enough to design and implement such a system then you should be smart enough to figure out how to cut a neat hole in some material.Nice work all the same.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373991",
"author": "av",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T13:44:52",
"content": "I am flabbergasted at the number of “hackers” reading this hacker blog who have absolutely nothing to say about the electronics, the programming, the wiring, or anything else technical.All they can do is bitch about the hole I cut, which looks fine in person, but in the photo it looks worse because the camera is only a few inches from the hole. In person you don’t stick your face right next to the machine.Seriously, the only thing you can think of that is worthy of saying is to complain about my hole-cutting skills? I’m not an artist. I have a box of crappy Exacto knives. I honestly don’t give a shit about the hole.The complaining about the unsecure cards, see, I can identify with that because it is a technical issue. But bitching about hole-cutting on a hacker blog? Seriously?-av",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374030",
"author": "Puppetteer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T15:28:05",
"content": "All the comments about holes are the people who can’t ignore the superficial apearance and relish in the clearly astounding hack you’ve created. You must be familiar with these sort of people IRL, so ignore them like you already do when you hear them.Just keep in mind for ever person bitching about the hole a dozen more are wishing you’d have posted a how to because they wish they had the originality you do.Also, you might be able to use a device similar to this:http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/21952b.pdfto accept enough inputs for the buttons and other i/o channels without the complications of a shift register.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374048",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T15:56:11",
"content": "“but I’d need 27 more data lines to do it (shift register or something).” – avUse a resistor ladder and a single analogue input pin (see Physical computing: sensing and controlling the physical world with computers By Dan O’Sullivan, Tom Igoehttp://books.google.co.uk/books?id=6JRcqhVUszEC&pg=PA388&lpg=PA388&dq=digital+button+input+resistor+ladder+to+single+analog+pin&source=bl&ots=q2t7ndO39b&sig=1t-6hIZQmM-Apb7zJZwxaaayxig&hl=en&ei=_jabTda1A5G0hAeJ2bjPBg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBYQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false) for the button input. AND the input with the NOT of the sold out light (so grab a handful of quad 2-input NAND gates) so you can’t buy sold out drinks.The Arduino probably has 9 digital I/O pins free to ‘press’ the buttons, or you can use a SIPO shift register (2 digital pins; data and clock. maybe use a 3rd for clear, or just transmit data very carefully, or clear it when a selection is made).Hint: use an 8-bit register with an AND gate between the MSB and MSB-1 of the output. Trigger your outputs with FETs which are switched by the serial data (in denary) 1,2,4,6,8,16,32,128 and 160. The input of drink number 9’s FET is taken from the output of the AND gate whereas drink 8 and 7 come straight from the output of the shift register. (drink indexes are 1-based in this example)Hope this makes sense, I know you’re new to digital/analogue electronics.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374050",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T15:56:29",
"content": "Care to share any rough financials? How much do you have into the system and the drinks? Do you buy wholesale? How much are you making per month?Also, did you bite out that hole or was there some sort of animal involved? I kid I kid.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374061",
"author": "av",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T16:03:00",
"content": "@Pedro: It’s a really neat idea but I think it complicates things a bit more than I need to right now. I like the idea of knowing what people are buying and knowing what is sold out, so I might still do that at some point. Another option is to upgrade to an Arduino Mega which has a ton more digital inputs/outputs and only costs about $50 more.@John: Sure. I spent about $200 on the Arduino, RFID reader, LCD screen, RFID cards, ethernet board, ethernet module, and RFID breakout board. The pop machine cost me $800, used, on craiglist, plus another $100 to rent a truck to move it.The drinks I sell for a reasonable profit, Coke for example costs me 33 cents a can but I sell for 80 cents (or $1). The Red Bull is the most expensive, it costs me about $1.95 a can and I sell for $3 or $2.40 with the card. I buy from wholesalers, distributers, and Costco (which often has the best price).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374065",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T16:09:00",
"content": "sorry, addendum to above, I meant to say drink 8 and 7 need to come from the shift register pins XORd together and ANDed with their individual pin. Otherwise the input for drink 9 satisfies the conditions for drink 7, 8 and 9.How can I explain this a bit better?Your outputs are QA..QH.Drink 1: QH2: QG3: QF4: QE5: QD6: QC7: (QB XOR QA) AND QB8: (QB XOR QA) AND QADrink 9: QB AND QAOK writing this down it sounds a LOT more complicated than it first sounded in my hed. You could of course just use a larger than 8-bit shift register….I feel a bit dumb now. :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374074",
"author": "Parcanman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T16:30:45",
"content": "Have you tried looking for serial debugging pins on the microcontroller that’s driving the original system? You might be able to determine what button is being pressed and what is sold out right from the MCU debugging system.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,224.902465
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/04/power-sipping-msp430-mini-alarm-clock/
|
Power-sipping MSP430 Mini Alarm Clock
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"clock hacks",
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"alarm",
"clock",
"msp430"
] |
[Markus] had a TI MSP430 sitting around from the LaunchPad kit he bought a while back. He didn’t know what to do with it, but eventually decided that it would make a
great miniature alarm clock
.
He added a shift register to the mix in order to drive his 7-segment LCD display, using two of the MSP430’s output pins in the process. Four more pins were tied to the display’s cathodes, while the remaining two pins are connected to push buttons which register user input.
He crammed the clock’s logic as well as an alarm tune into the chip’s scant 2KB of memory space, literally occupying everything up to the last available byte. The clock is quite a power-miser, using just 2 µA in standby mode. According to [Markus’] calculations, that should enable the clock to use one set of batteries for 10+ years.
While this isn’t the
first MSP430 clock we have seen
, it certainly is the smallest and most simple. Stick around to see a quick video of his clock in action.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6q4vUfasKw&w=470]
| 12
| 12
|
[
{
"comment_id": "373556",
"author": "rusty",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T17:25:38",
"content": "beautiful.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373559",
"author": "Marvin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T17:31:04",
"content": "I like the well thought out “user interface”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373572",
"author": "TopHat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T17:52:49",
"content": "hmm smallest? idkhttp://www.simpleavr.com/msp430-projects/rtc-clock",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373587",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:21:41",
"content": "Nice clean looking build. Love the simplicity.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373599",
"author": "Alan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:47:24",
"content": "Nicely done, however, that would be “LED” not LCD. Just lighting the LED display for a few seconds a day would equate to the energy usage of an optimally built always-on LCD display.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373632",
"author": "Kutil",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:38:41",
"content": "very nice :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373718",
"author": "Amos",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:22:02",
"content": "Is that supposed to wake someone up? It can barely be heard above the noise from the camera’s mic!Other than that, it looks very well made. Thanks for sharing, Markus.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373732",
"author": "yrss",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T00:14:32",
"content": "The lifetime problem isn’t the batteries, it’s the error in the clock source.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373742",
"author": "Bushi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T00:40:58",
"content": "@yrssWhat do you mean the clock source error? If the clock drifts that doesn’t affect energy consumption, just time accuracy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373774",
"author": "Philippe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T02:46:46",
"content": "Lovely!It’s actually a very interesting programming exercise to replicate the functions of an alarm clock: it is really not as easy as it seems.Could it be done with less components?Kudos!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373858",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T07:14:21",
"content": "Perhaps it might be one of the smaller home bench built electronic alarm clocks, but it would make at least two of the digital wrist watches that I had, that featured an alarm function. To be fair to Markus in his write up of the build he didn’t indicate building smallest or the most least power consuming alarm clock where goals.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374137",
"author": "Ragnar",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:11:19",
"content": "Schönes Ding!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,224.95113
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/04/thinkpad-dock-picking/
|
Thinkpad Dock-Picking
|
Caleb Kraft
|
[
"Security Hacks"
] |
[
"lockpicking",
"thinkpad"
] |
Hackers at the “RaumZeitLabor” hackerspace in Mannheim Germany have noticed that the locking mechanism on the thinkpad mini dock is
extremely easy to circumvent
. Sold as an additional layer of security, the mechanism itself is not really secured in any way. The button that actuates it is locked by a key, but the latch isn’t secured and can be accessed via a vent on the side. They are using a lockpicking tool in the video, but they say that even a long paperclip would suffice.
We know that no security device is perfect, and if someone really really wants it, they’ll take it, but this seems a bit too easy. Maybe the next version will have a little plastic wall protecting the latch from being actuated manually. Hopefully if security is your main concern you are using something a little more robust that a dock-lock.
[via the
RaumZeitLabor hackerspace
(google
translated
)]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFLiyzZ_FyQ&w=470]
| 15
| 15
|
[
{
"comment_id": "373515",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T15:54:10",
"content": "So far kensington locks have been pretty reliable..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373526",
"author": "Alan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:21:14",
"content": "I can remove my W500 from the dock by just pulling hard enough.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373528",
"author": "Nomad",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:28:13",
"content": "@Alan: you can do pretty much everything with enough force…but that’s not the point.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373534",
"author": "Alan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:49:12",
"content": "@Nomad: It is if it damages no parts. Nobody would ever know it’s nicked. Might as well secure it to your desk with a magnet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373540",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:53:51",
"content": "Nice hack. The video felt a bit OTT bu I guess you can’t argue that it showed the weakness well enough.If I’d bought it for the security feature, I’d now be looking to return it for a refund.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373549",
"author": "twistedsymphony",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T17:09:22",
"content": "if it could have just as easily been “picked” with a paper clip… then why not use that in the video? I mean wouldn’t that hit the point home just that much harder?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373566",
"author": "b",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T17:46:16",
"content": "This has legitimate uses. A colleague once locked himself into my dock while I was on vacation. I wish he would have done this rather than breaking my docking station.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373569",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T17:50:45",
"content": "The IBM docks have been notoriously lax in security. The dock for the T40 series is a prime example. All a would be thief would need to do is stick a paper clip into the key way and press down on the release button. It takes longer to read this comment than it does to open that dock.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373650",
"author": "Mr. Coffee",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T20:26:25",
"content": "Considering I’ve accidentally done this when I lifted the docked laptop to clean under it… well, yeah",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373706",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:11:25",
"content": "It doesn’t matter if the lock works or not. It shouldn’t be part of any security plan anyway. The data is always going to be more valuable than the hardware. Full disk encryption and encrypted communications should be the concern.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373827",
"author": "Glenn",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T05:35:53",
"content": "They market it as security, so you only need to purchase one Kensington lock. On the face it looks good to a normal non-HR manager who generally makes the purchasing decision, as you can use a Kensington lock to secure the Dock, then the Dock to secure the laptop…The best bet is to use Kensington locks on both the dock and the laptop for real security. (The laptop key-hole is still accessible when it’s in the dock.)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373859",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T07:14:36",
"content": "The fact that we didn’t use a paper clip in the video is that using a paper clip works, but it is a bit harder to do and less impressive for a video. As you can see, we were pretty fast using the pick tool with a docked ThinkPad, but we were much slower in the side view (the camera was in the way). So I guess it’s all about training.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374004",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T14:05:30",
"content": "Kensington locks? Secure?! Oh please.Do a video search for “kensington lock toilet paper” to see them opened quite easily using only the cardboard of a toilet paper roll. Been featured on boingboing in 2005.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376150",
"author": "onyxphase",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T11:56:33",
"content": "It’s sad that i had to do this to a T-60 stuck in a dock because someone lost their key.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "961373",
"author": "hammer",
"timestamp": "2013-02-17T08:21:01",
"content": "Thank you, I have recently been searching for details about this subject matter for ages and yours is the best I have found so far.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,225.004885
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/04/solar-powered-gameboy-color-never-runs-out-of-juice/
|
Solar-powered GameBoy Color Never Runs Out Of Juice
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Nintendo Game Boy Hacks",
"Solar Hacks"
] |
[
"gameboy color",
"handheld",
"solar"
] |
Instructables user [Andrew] was given a free, but damaged GameBoy color by a friend. The friend’s dog had done quite a number on the outside of the handheld, but it was definitely usable. After replacing some of the outer shell, [Andrew] decided that he would try tweaking the GameBoy to
utilize a solar cell in order to keep the batteries topped off
.
He bought a solar garden light for $5 and disassembled it, being careful not to damage the heavily-glued solar panel in the process. The GameBoy was pulled apart next, and the solar panel was soldered to the handheld’s battery leads. Once the wires were properly routed through the case, he reassembled the handheld and picked up a pair of rechargeable AA batteries to test things out.
[Andrew] tells us that the solar panel works nicely, and that simply setting it out face-down keeps his batteries charged and ready to go.
Stick around for a quick video demo of his solar-powered GameBoy.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPxrb7jX4Do&w=470]
| 5
| 5
|
[
{
"comment_id": "373512",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T15:48:49",
"content": "Probably not a big deal, but without a charge controller there is a possibility of damaging the batteries if it gets left out in the sun too long. Probably not since a lot of solar lights seem to charge nimh batteries without any circuit to control it. Either way, kudos for making it work again. That’s one less piece of electronics in the landfill.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373525",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:14:07",
"content": "He ‘lucked out’ by managing to get a small solar panel made of amorphous cells as those have a voltage of 0.8v/cell, meaning with the blocking diode his particular one can trickle charge the 2x AAA cells ok.However most of the solar garden lights I’ve seen/opened use small panels made of 4x monocrystalline or polycrystalline cells that produce around 0.55v/cell, giving about 1.6v with a blocking diode, which is fine for charging one rechargable cell in a garden light that has a jole thief circuit to run a white LED, but it means you’d need two of those mini panels in series with a blocking diode to charge batteries in a GameBoy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373532",
"author": "bothersaidpooh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:40:14",
"content": "@Haku, a simple workaround for this is to obtain an ICL7660 or MAX660, set up in low voltage mode according to the datasheet and feed the output from that into the batteries.I did this a while ago to make mini LED “bulbs” which worked from 1.5V",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373701",
"author": "Graham",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:02:50",
"content": "I don’t like the looks of this… I lost a couple cartridges when I was younger from leaving the GameBoy in the sun and having them overheat.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "403877",
"author": "membman312",
"timestamp": "2011-06-10T12:43:23",
"content": "nice idea, i think i must play gameboy next to time ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,225.049763
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/03/gun-turret-built-into-a-cake-box/
|
Gun Turret Built Into A Cake Box
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"home entertainment hacks"
] |
[
"18f4520",
"airsoft",
"ir",
"pic",
"remote control",
"turret"
] |
Couch potatoes have a new line of defense thanks to
this remote-controlled turret
. The gun itself is a hacked down airsoft model. The mount started with a servo motor in the center of a plastic cake box. A thin strip of plywood was added, along with a couple of sliding furniture feet to stabilize the platform as it rotates. A second servo mounts to that platform, which allows the trajectory of the projectile to be adjusted up or down. A PIC 18F4520 controls both of the motors, as well as the firing of the airsoft module, all while listening for commands from an IR receiver. Just adjust the firmware to match an unused device on your universal remote and the power to annoy your roommates will be at the tips of your fingers.
You can see an overview of the build process, as well as a demonstration of the final project in the video after the break. The page linked at the top has a very detailed build log but some of the ‘next’ buttons on that page don’t work for us. Luckily you’ll see a table of contents in the right column which lets you navigate around these bad links.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHS1PFXkgnM&w=470]
[via
Dangerous Prototypes
]
| 17
| 17
|
[
{
"comment_id": "372990",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T20:48:48",
"content": "That’s a really neat project! Might I suggest mounting the IR receiver on the top center?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373004",
"author": "Remarknl",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T21:11:45",
"content": "The cake is a lie!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373032",
"author": "Ryan leach",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:00:38",
"content": "Id bake it into a cake and have some of these “chocolate tubes”(http://www.google.com.au/images?hl=en&q=chocolate+tubes&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1333&bih=759) sticking out all around and hide the turret inside one, I’d also hide the IR sensor in a faux candle in the center.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373052",
"author": "mic",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:21:39",
"content": "Deliciously Violent!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373070",
"author": "BadWolf",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T23:02:52",
"content": "wanna piece of ca…HAAAAAAAAAA STOP SHOOTING MEEE!!!!warning,epic lol inbound.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373075",
"author": "o",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T23:23:46",
"content": "“ARE YOU STILL THERE?”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373146",
"author": "Darkmatter",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T02:04:55",
"content": "I’d love to see something like this on a smaller scale, like on a CD stack thing.Great project!Might make something similar!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373199",
"author": "dbear",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T03:45:25",
"content": "Quick somebody connect it to a kinect for a fully automatic area defense system. Especially if the kinect could do IFF.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373241",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T05:28:12",
"content": "EXTERRRRMINAAAAAAAAAAATE",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373257",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T05:39:27",
"content": "it looked like someone tried to build a Dalek then gave uphttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Or-epXMvTM8",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373408",
"author": "Brian.Holiday",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T12:53:57",
"content": "It is very clever using furniture sliders as bearings, I will use that on my projects. If you have any problems with it pick up a lazy susan bearing at your home improvement store for about $5, I have used them in the past and they work quite well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373427",
"author": "privacy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T13:27:19",
"content": "Can we get one of these with web controls instaled in the hackaday headquarters, new stories are comming in way to slowly today man.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373437",
"author": "Roberto",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T13:44:11",
"content": "Should bake these controls in a chocolate cake and shoot hot fudge.Also, it is refreshing to see an IR controlled robot, after the relentless flurry of TCP-IP bluetooth bridges as of lately.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373453",
"author": "JamieWho",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T14:17:08",
"content": "I like this, but I am wondering why he used a continuous command for actions (left, right, up, down, fire) and a clear or stop command. Why not just make it move 10 degrees each press or fire 1-3 shots per button press. That seems like unnecessary programming. Plus, if you press fire, then rotate, it could quickly move out of range and be shooting directly in the face. Maybe an RF remote would have been a better idea. Or even Wifi, okay, time to go buy an airsoft and a cake box. I can see the Wal-mart cashiers face now. “You’re gonna make WHAT?!?”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373489",
"author": "chango",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T15:09:38",
"content": "I don’t blame you.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373530",
"author": "Dosbomber",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:29:30",
"content": "Nice to see some PIC love again.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373537",
"author": "Tel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:51:54",
"content": "@JamieWhoYour Walmart cashiers actually speak English and/or talk to the customers? That’s a massive surprise.Ones down here are rude as hell and barely know enough English to get hired.I envy you.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,225.869355
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/03/kapton-tape-aids-in-drag-soldering-surface-mount-parts/
|
Kapton Tape Aids In Drag Soldering Surface Mount Parts
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"drag soldering",
"kapton tape",
"smd",
"smt",
"solder mask",
"surface mount"
] |
Drag soldering works exactly as its name implies, by dragging a bead of solder across fine-pitch pins you can quickly solder an entire row. The method relies on clean joints, so liquid solder flux is often used to make sure there is good flow. But if you’re drag soldering on boards that you’ve etched yourself the solder can sometimes run down the trace, rather than staying where you want it. Professionally manufactured boards don’t have this problem since they have solder mask covering the copper that doesn’t need soldering. [Ahmad Tabbouch] has
a method that uses Kapton tape to act as a temporary solder mask
on diy boards.
The process involves several steps. First, three strips are place horizontally across the board, leaving just a portion of the upper and lower pads exposed. Those pads are then tinned with solder, and a light touch with an X-acto knife is then used to score the tape covering the vertical rows of pads. Once the waste as been removed, two more strips are added and those rows are tinned. From there the chip is placed and soldered as we’ve seen before; first tacked in place, then fluxed, and finally drag soldered to complete the connections. This achieves a crisp and clean connection, presumably without the need to clean up your solder mess with solder wick.
Kapton tape resists heat, making it perfect for this process. We’ve also seen it
used on hot beds for 3D printers
, and as
a smoothing surface for sliding mechanisms
.
[via
Dangerous Prototypes
]
| 29
| 29
|
[
{
"comment_id": "372951",
"author": "turbochris",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T19:37:39",
"content": "Usually when I hear Kapton I think of flaming aircraft falling from the sky. Good to see it put to good use.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372960",
"author": "MRC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T19:51:11",
"content": "kapton has been used for thermal insulation since the Lunar Module landed on the moon. good to see its become a bit more available to the average hacker.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372963",
"author": "Cirictech",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T19:58:27",
"content": "Kapton makes a great solder mask, I have been using it for years. also you can get it from uline for fairly cheap.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372968",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T20:20:08",
"content": "Awexome idea!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372976",
"author": "bothersaidpooh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T20:34:42",
"content": "you also see it used in SMPSs as well, and a few old laptops used it to hold the CPU traces for the flip chip in place.Ought to be reuseable though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372998",
"author": "omegacs",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T20:58:50",
"content": "Haven’t read the article yet, but what bothers me about the picture is the insanely oversized soldering iron tip. If you’re doing surface-mount parts, nifty tricks do not make up for not having some of the baseline appropriate tools.As far as the usage of Kapton tape, I ran in to a couple situations recently where it saved my bacon:In one case I had put un-capped vias (since the DorkbotPDX group order doesn’t do microvias or capped) underneath a USB micro-B connector, before I realized that the metal shell of the connector was flush with the surface of the board… It ended up soldering the vias together, which was bad. A bit of Kapton tape over the vias worked nicely, though it raised the part up enough that sometimes the main pins wouldn’t solder right.The second case involved a chip that was narrower than the footprint on the PCB. Vias just inside the pads would solder to the pins because of the position of the chip, and a number of the vias were offset enough to solder to the next pin over… Again Kaptop tape to the rescue.I’ve checked Digikey for the tape with no success, but as it turns out I had a decent supply of it in the form of the little squares stuck to the top of various USB mini-B connectors on my various projects. Presumably it’s put there to avoid getting solder inside the connector during (I’m guessing) wave soldering, but it sure came in handy…Yesterday though I tried a new technique: a Sharpie. A couple “coats” of ink over the vias provides enough “solder resist” to keep the case from shorting them out, at least under the USB connector. I’ll be trying it out on the too-narrow chip here in a few minutes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373006",
"author": "ewanuno",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T21:17:35",
"content": "i did this a few times using regular paper masking tape. kapton tape would obviously be better though, but i’m pretty sure that every body has a roll of painter making tape lying around.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373012",
"author": "mjn",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T21:29:31",
"content": "omegacs: there is nothing wrong with the size of that tip. I regularly solder finer components with thicker tips. After all, it’s not the size that counts, it’s how you use it :)In fact, super fine tips do not work very well for drag soldering. Wide chisel tips are great.Also, I think you’re confused about the difference between capped and tented vias. Tenting is where you have soldermask covering the via, capping is where you have copper covering the hole in the via.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373019",
"author": "threepointone",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T21:42:08",
"content": "Hm. I’ve noticed this happening before when I drag solder (or really with any type of soldering) but it’s never been a problem at all other than that it looks ugly. I’m assuming that this only becomes a problem when you’re not using a proper drag soldering tip (the kind with a bowl reservoir thing at the tip). I almost exclusively use this technique now, but I’ve never really gotten it to work with normal tips (probably because I’m not 1337 enough and am too lazy to do it the hard way =P).@omegacs, drag soldering is the technique they actually have been using in industry for any hand-soldered multi-pin surface mount part since the 80s. I actually read about it in a soldering reference book from the 80s in the library before this technique appeared online. I’m actually a little surprised how little documentation there was on this topic about five years ago or so. The drag soldering tips are always much larger than the pins themselves–this allows you to solder more pins at once, and provides space for the solder reservoir on the tip. Trust me, once you try drag soldering (at least with a real drag soldering tip) you’ll never turn back for anything larger than an 8-pin op amp.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373022",
"author": "threepointone",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T21:44:18",
"content": "Oh, another REALLY cool thing you can do with a real drag soldering tip (mentioned in that same industry soldering book): if you empty out the reservoir, it works in reverse and you can actually clean up solder pads or remove bridges just by touching them or dragging out the bridge short. It’s REALLY convenient–even if you mess up, you can fix it in 2 seconds without pulling out the wick or any other nonsense.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373030",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T21:56:57",
"content": "Drag soldering FTW. I’d like to second what mjn and threepointone said. That tip isn’t too big. I used to think that a really fine tip was necessary for SMT work, but it isn’t. The place where I worked last summer used fairly large tips, which horrified me at first. Until I was shown how to drag solder…instead of soldering individual pins. It is much faster and the temperature of the tip doesn’t drop. I found that was an issue with smaller tips. And with some flux bridges are easy to remove with a dry iron tip.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373034",
"author": "drewmerc",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:01:39",
"content": "i posted this 2 days ago on the forumsgood to see it here as well",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373040",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:07:05",
"content": "I lack to see how the tape helps any bit. Maybe I just have the right tools, but I have drag soldered endless amounts of SMD chips like the one in the pic and have not needed kapton tape at all. Using the tape for that reason is a little bit of a waste. Instead just purchase the right tools from the get go and there is no issues",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373043",
"author": "luke",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:12:07",
"content": "great stuff!the kapton on usb connectors and other components is for pick-place machines btw. it’s there that the vaccuum nozzle can grip it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373074",
"author": "mjn",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T23:22:33",
"content": "DeadlyFoez: the point of the kapton is for it to essentially act like your soldermask on a home made PCB. If you are having your PCBs commercially printed with a soldermask layer than there isn’t much of a need for the kapton (I guess it could be useful for protecting nearby components if your layout is super tight).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373081",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T23:34:41",
"content": "It’s creepy when things pop up in your daily browsing that you’ve been thinking about just days earlier. My reason for thinking about doing just this was more cosmetic though since I haven’t really had a problem with the actual soldering. I wanted to get crisp clear “edges” on the solder joints and judging by the pics that’s exactly what you get. Sweet!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373149",
"author": "Steve B",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T02:08:23",
"content": "Interesting that I’ve been using this method for many years, but have never heard of it called “drag soldering” before now. Maybe I need to get out more….? It really impressed my classmates in EE courses when I could solder MSOP and TQFP stuff with tiny pin pitches, and I didn’t even use tape. However, I did find the value of a high-quality flux pen, as well as its relatively sparse usage requirement for the best-quality joints.Incidentally, since Kaplan tape is great as a temporary solder mask, is it possible to obtain sizable sheets of the material? I’m thinking I could send it through a printer (I have both laser and ink jet), print the solder mask template onto the sheet, and cut out the patterns as needed before applying. I wouldn’t even care if I had to apply the adhesive. Methinks this would greatly speed PCB prototyping. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373150",
"author": "Steve B",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T02:09:44",
"content": "Crap….KAPTON tape, not Kaplan….sheesh….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373151",
"author": "josh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T02:11:21",
"content": "@omegacs: McMaster-Carr is a great resource for some hard-to-find materials.http://www.mcmaster.com/#polyimide-%28kapton%29-tape/=bq0fr4I don’t know how their prices compare, but they have no minimum order.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373228",
"author": "turn.self.off",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T04:51:12",
"content": "dug up this to visualize to myself what was going on:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t06malVew40",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373258",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T05:45:38",
"content": "That’s not a video, Now THIS is a ViDEO! ;-)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373342",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T09:54:42",
"content": "more like Kapton tape: AIDS, in drag. amirite?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373344",
"author": "Bakamoichigei",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T10:00:30",
"content": "Damn, I never thought of that. I’ve tried drag soldering before, even have a nifty precision bevel tip with a little solder reservoir on the end. And yeah, on DIY boards, the solder’ll wick up and down traces all over the place.Can’t wait to try this. I just happen to have scored like a dozen rolls of 3M kapton tape from a liquidator on eBay a year or two ago for almost nothing. :DMaybe now it’ll see some actual use… ;]",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373410",
"author": "Alex",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T12:57:13",
"content": "I get my Kapton take from DealExtreme… *extremely* cheap:http://s.dealextreme.com/search/KAPTONStuff works great!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373411",
"author": "Faelenor",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T12:57:15",
"content": "Wow, cleaning his iron tip would help too! It’s so dirty that he may even need a new one…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373438",
"author": "PodeCoet",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T13:46:54",
"content": "@FaelenorHah in all fairness, it was a couple of years back and the tip had one good side to it :-P (didn’t use it much, most repairs were done at work); camera also makes it look worse than it really is@AlexYou beat me to it, I was about to recommend DealExtreme! Their supplier (WLTape) also offers brilliant pricing for decent quantities",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373564",
"author": "qdot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T17:42:10",
"content": "@omegacsThe little squares of Kapton tape on top of the mini-B connectors are for one reason – automatic pick&place machines.Those devices work by using little suction pipes – the component literally gets sucked up from the ribbon feed, and is transported to the placement location while being held by the vacuum.The Kapton tape makes it possible to hold the component against the business end of the vacuum pliers.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375111",
"author": "cheesoid",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T02:58:01",
"content": "this sort of tape is used in pcb manufacturing to mask gold fingers prior to hot air solder leveling, among any other uses we can find for it. it works nearly as well as solder mask for fairly simple applications.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "4363431",
"author": "vk69",
"timestamp": "2018-02-15T13:34:03",
"content": "Good to see the soldering iron in the photo has an immaculately clean, tinned tip, ready to solder the IC.Great idea about using polyimide tape to assist soldering. Thanks Ahmad.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,225.110133
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/03/aftermarket-visor-mounted-gps-better-than-oem/
|
Aftermarket Visor-mounted GPS Better Than OEM
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"gps hacks",
"Transportation Hacks"
] |
[
"gps",
"retrofit",
"tomtom"
] |
When [Roberto] bought his Mini Cooper, he opted to forgo the factory GPS system as it was over priced and didn’t have the best of reputations. He decided that he still needed GPS in his car, so
he committed himself to install a TomTom unit
in a way that would not detract from the car’s interior.
He dismantled the driver’s side sun visor, taking measurements of the original plastic housing that contained the mirror and lighting. He then drew up a 3D model of a replacement housing that would allow him to fit both the GPS unit and the speaker in the same amount of space formerly occupied by the mirror.
He gutted his TomTom unit, removing any extraneous parts he could find. A smaller speaker was sourced due to size constraints, then everything was mounted in his new housing once it arrived.
The end result is amazing. The GPS unit looks like it was installed at the factory – there is no sign that this was any sort of aftermarket modification. We are sure people will be quick to say that would be difficult to keep your eyes on the road while looking at the navigation screen, but as [Roberto] points out, you should be following the spoken directions once the car is in motion anyhow.
| 40
| 40
|
[
{
"comment_id": "372904",
"author": "MrJackson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T18:04:28",
"content": "I think the passenger visor would have been a better location. You can follow the voice once your moving if alone, or the passenger can assist as needed when you’re not.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372907",
"author": "Daniel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T18:14:41",
"content": "I thought for sure I’d seen this before on your website, but I can’t find it anywhere through your search tool. Hmm…wonder where that was. Ah! got it:http://hackaday.com/2010/04/20/gps-embedded-in-visor/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372916",
"author": "rusty",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T18:27:54",
"content": "thought I saw it somewhere? but this time it’s not as critical.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372932",
"author": "The Steven",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T18:51:48",
"content": "Everything old is new again…http://www.rbarrios.com/projects/SUNVISORGPS/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372939",
"author": "JeremyC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T19:00:22",
"content": "I have an OEM GPS from another manufacturer. It’s OK, and as far as fitting into the car it great (of course). As far as actual navigation, I think my Garmin in the other car works a bit better.Also, the upgrades are pretty expensive for the OEM… And the Garmin for that matter. Would be good to make those like $10.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372940",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T19:00:53",
"content": "Awesome hack, but is that the best place to put a GPS? Seems dangerous to me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372946",
"author": "Drew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T19:21:48",
"content": "I feel like putting it in the visor is a bad idea, especially in a small car like the mini.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372997",
"author": "biozz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T20:58:40",
"content": "and just as dangerousits about to be banned in the USA to mount them there according to MSNBC",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373010",
"author": "jeicrash",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T21:24:11",
"content": "Very nice and clean, regardless of what some might say this is great and smaller then some of the other in-visor gps units i have seen. A step forward would be to put it in the mirror like a police car video recording system is.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373035",
"author": "Walt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:02:00",
"content": "Very nice integration, but can you see the road safely?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373036",
"author": "Walt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:05:23",
"content": "Ah, voice…Duh, I should have read the whole post!!! Please forgive me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373063",
"author": "Varg",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:49:20",
"content": "That mounting location doesn’t seem like a very good idea. Sun visors obstruct too much forward visibility and at least with a windshield mounted GPS unit you are never really looking away from the road.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373080",
"author": "smb1985",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T23:33:39",
"content": "I drive a Mini, and the stock visor is nearly unusable because it obstructs such a large part of the driver’s view. This guy didn’t make the visor any larger than stock, he just made it slightly less useless in my opinion.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373082",
"author": "HanSolo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T23:34:53",
"content": "can someone please ‘asplain why this article has been repeated?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373168",
"author": "Jim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T02:34:41",
"content": "I swear I’ve seen this one before too.Funny that you can do such a fine job of building something so useless. Engineers frequently get lost in the challenge.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373179",
"author": "jim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T02:56:27",
"content": "My Sony GPS is terrible compared to Android’s alternative — I guess discrete GPSs days’ are numbered.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373181",
"author": "nightdriver",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T03:00:55",
"content": "I guess you only drive during the day.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373219",
"author": "Nitrus",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T04:44:33",
"content": "Repeat? I have seen this on here before.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373325",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T09:16:12",
"content": "100% sure, this is a repost.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373326",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T09:16:59",
"content": "found:http://hackaday.com/2010/04/20/gps-embedded-in-visor/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373347",
"author": "Daniel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T10:06:12",
"content": "@anon am I missing something, or is this a repost of the second comment? ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373376",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T11:46:27",
"content": "You are kind of dumb. Obviously he doesn’t need to have the gps pulled down while driving. As he said, he just follows the voice instructions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373382",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T11:57:43",
"content": "My previous is directed to Varg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373387",
"author": "Daniel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T12:28:59",
"content": "@MrX Actually the article on his website specifically mentions that he designed the unit to turn off when the visor is returned, so the gps does have to be pulled down to hear voice instructions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373424",
"author": "James",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T13:21:07",
"content": "You’d also struggle to get any satellite lock with the visor in the up position as it’s sat right under the roof. Unless he built in an external antenna I couldn’t see.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373439",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T13:48:43",
"content": "@Daniel Now that is a dumb thing to do. Driving with visor down does indeed affect visibility, at least when I drive my car. My apology to Varg which was right from the beginning.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373456",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T14:20:08",
"content": "People are claiming that the visor reduces visibility but it as at the top of windshield. Cars as a rule are on the ground. Yes if you are are approaching a ramp or a hill it then could be an issue. Other than than that I do not think it is an issue for most drivers. I mean cars already have them and people do use them. What I really want is for cars to use my phones nav software. My phone has HDMI out and USB. Why not provide an interface that allows them to be the entertainment and nav system for your car?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373457",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T14:21:54",
"content": "Visor mount… Why do people keep doing this useless crap?I wonder where we are, flip, oh there… SMASH…If you have to block your vision to see the GPS, your design is an EPIC FAIL.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373465",
"author": "IceMountain",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T14:39:21",
"content": "Oh for the love Hackaday. Have you all gone soft?“I wonder where we are, flip, oh there… SMASH…”Christ almight fartface – have you never driven with your visor down? I mean, they must be unsafe since they have been used in cars for oh I don’t know, the last 50+ years. Since when are these considered unsafe? Someone should let the NTSB know about these rogue “sun visors”, they will be the death of us all!!!You run the same risk screwing with your dash-mounted GPS, your stereo, your cell phone, your coffee, or in your case, your makeup kit, as you do with this GPS. Pay attention while driving and there is no issue – distractions are only distractions if you allow them to be.Go pull your panties out of your crack and get back to not doing hacks.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373497",
"author": "Aero",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T15:21:31",
"content": "I really don’t understand the GPS obsession. For typical drivers, the majority of driving is done on familiar routes(work, home, school, stores, etc). You shouldn’t need to have a GPS running on your dash (or visor) every time you get in your car. Your subcompact is not a commercial airplane.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373517",
"author": "joe hosman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:03:00",
"content": "@IceMountain I think the difference is usually you don’t read stuff on the sunvisor, the visor is usually just blocking the sun, not target for your vision.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373523",
"author": "IceMountain",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:10:14",
"content": "Ah I totally forgot that people check their reading comprehension skills at the door when logging on to hackaday.It says above, “…but as [Roberto] points out, you should be following the spoken directions once the car is in motion anyhow”.If you bothered to read the guy’s site it says, “Once set up, you should follow the spoken instructions anyway, so the sunvisor can be moved forward, out of sight.”So unless you are a bit thick, you are not reading things off your sunvisor, you are listening to the GPS.If you were so distracted by the sunvisor-mounted GPS you would likely be just as distracted by your in-dash or dash-mounted unit that you would be taking your eyes off the road anyways. Then again if you are so distracted by shiny objects, perhaps you should not be behind the wheel of a car at all.It’s all about self control folks – don’t drive like a moron and something like this is not an issue. I see plenty of people reading the paper, applying makeup, etc while driving – all of which are far more egregious than having a visor-mounted GPS system and all under your control. You make the choice to drive while distracted.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373620",
"author": "JamieWho",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T19:15:14",
"content": "I love it. I need something to do with my mirror that is falling out of my driver’s visor. It even has built in power to the visor, so this will be awesome.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373767",
"author": "Remrat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T02:28:59",
"content": "Great idea! Looks OEM! What software did you use to design the case? Also, once it was designed, what company did you use to have that piece produced?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374034",
"author": "GPS For Car",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T15:32:15",
"content": "Creative and innovative idea, but is the charging cable long enough to reach the sun visor?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "376845",
"author": "woutervddn",
"timestamp": "2011-04-09T08:24:45",
"content": "Is this HaDs first repo? I always asked myself when it would happen. When you’ve got multiple bloggers having 5 or more articles per day it’s impossible to check all posts before you post anything.About the hack: great hack indeed. Both my parents had an seperate GPS but in their new cars it’s OEM. While it’s handy for them that the maps get updated in the garage it aren’t the best UI’s on the market. But I love the idea and I think I might do the same one day..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "380258",
"author": "someone",
"timestamp": "2011-04-14T18:44:19",
"content": "humans were not made for multi tasking therefore , it will be hard to balance between the visual cortex and sound cortex , so , isnt it better not to listen to gps",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "414395",
"author": "spitfire",
"timestamp": "2011-07-07T21:46:48",
"content": "first time writer. Its interesting that the negative people fall to realize what this site is all about. Hacks, this person, showed that something can be done to a GPS, regardless of where he placed it, he showed that it can be done, period!you may not like where he placed it, but he placed it where he wanted it, and where it works for him and showed that it can be done. I would like more information on the parts and other items please contact me",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "414536",
"author": "Jimm",
"timestamp": "2011-07-08T05:18:04",
"content": "If having a GPS in your car compromises visibility and safety, then I say better do without it. It is not about being techie and enterprising but common sense should prevail.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "568154",
"author": "Zhen",
"timestamp": "2012-01-27T03:05:52",
"content": "I considered this for my Crown Vic. The 1490t screen exactly fits the opening for the vanity mirror. Reception is adequate at the location without an external antenna and 12 Volts power is already at the mirror. The trouble is the screen isn’t viewable with the visor against the windshield and driver view is obstructed with the visor flipped down for viewing. It would still be useful in this location for voice prompts and proximity alerts for POI. It is theoretically illegal in California where permitted GPS locations are prescribed by law. I haven’t looked into other state laws.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,225.322244
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/03/adjustable-prank-box-growls-and-screams/
|
Adjustable Prank Box Growls And Screams
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"555 timer",
"prank",
"screamer"
] |
[Brett] over at FightCube was tossing around ideas to build a
screaming prank circuit that fits inside an Altoids tin
. Sound familiar? We featured a story just a few days back about the construction of
a very similar item
by [Dino Segovis]. It seems that great minds think alike after all!
[Brett’s] version is a bit more robust than the one we featured the other day. It’s similar to [Dino’s] in that it uses a 555 timer in astable mode, triggered by a normally-closed microswitch when the tin is opened. However, this version also includes a photoresistor which is used to increase the pitch and speed of the output as more light enters the box. This creates a growling effect that builds up into a scream as the box is opened. [Brett] has also included an adjustable pot which allows the sound range to be tweaked to his liking.
Stick around for a video walkthrough of the screamer circuit as well as a demo of the Altoids tin in action.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRaC9TAcKlc&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpK6yHVJUNQ&w=470]
| 6
| 6
|
[
{
"comment_id": "372863",
"author": "Dino",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T17:03:42",
"content": "Nice variation on a theme! :)I like the growliness. Nice job Brett!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372876",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T17:25:33",
"content": "Thanks Dino! So far everyone jumps pretty good when they go for a mint and get a nice surprise ;-) The dark chocolate is too enticing!! Thanks for posting my article HAD, I’d like to see what other variations people can come up with… like using two 555’s, or a micro. You could get that modulated sound in any light with two 555’s, just run the modulator output into the CV (pin 5) input of the main tone generator. It would also be neat if one of those scary “inverted” faces pops out like this one:http://i51.tinypic.com/zmxjb4.jpg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372902",
"author": "ENKI-][",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T18:00:10",
"content": "The next step is clearly the Lament Configuration.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373484",
"author": "A Former DEC employee",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T14:56:24",
"content": "Years ago an employee of DEC made a box like that and placed it in various places around the building. Everyone knew it was him since his initials were clearly printed on the box. That was until one day that a new security guard saw it….told his supervisor who said it wasn’t a problem….but went and called the bomb squad anyway….poor plant just wanted to live it’s life but got blown up.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373529",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:29:09",
"content": "@AF DEC Emp – Thanks for sharing ;-) I guess the moral of the story there is that if you want to disguise a bomb, don’t jam a bunch of electronics into something that shouldn’t have any. And under no circumstances should the bomb have any “coiled” wires coming out of it over to another part… and um, no duct tape!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1160863",
"author": "Angel",
"timestamp": "2014-01-11T09:30:24",
"content": "Made my ears hurt too,after a while! xD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,225.156094
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/03/using-your-pc-as-a-simple-signal-generator/
|
Using Your PC As A Simple Signal Generator
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"digital audio hacks",
"Tool Hacks"
] |
[
"DC offset",
"signal generator"
] |
[Debraj] needed a simple signal generator for a project he was working on, but didn’t have one handy. He found that the easiest and cheapest way to get clean, reliable signaling was by
using something that was already sitting on his desk
– his PC.
He found that the tone generator built into Audacity was quite useful, at least for generating waveforms at less than 20 KHz or so. Upon plugging his scope into his sound card’s audio jack, he observed that the PC had good frequency fidelity, though it required an additional DC offset as most cards are built to remove that offset from the waveform.
Using a LM358 as a non-inverting summing amplifier, he was able to apply a steady DC offset and generate usable signals for his micro controller projects. A schematic for his offset circuit is available on his site, should you wish to build one of your own.
[Debraj] also notes that though Audacity is a
cheap
free way to generate simple signals, any number of complex signals can be generated using MATLAB if you happen to own a copy.
| 29
| 26
|
[
{
"comment_id": "372795",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T14:59:58",
"content": "This isnt a bad idea, you could merge this with a simple sound card scope mod and have a relatively cheap usable tool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372798",
"author": "Ben",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:03:52",
"content": "This is quite timely, as I need a simple audio-frequency generator. I hadn’t thought to use Audacity. Thanks!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372799",
"author": "Glug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:07:35",
"content": "The siggen utilities are great for this. Much better than audacity, and no gui required.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372801",
"author": "Jason",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:09:00",
"content": "If you don’t own MATLAB, you can use the open source Octave which has similar syntax and functionality.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372803",
"author": "blue_carbuncle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:10:36",
"content": "Try looking up Stomper Hyperion. It is an old drum sound synth with 512 stackable oscillators that you can tweak to you liking and then export to wav. I have also used Analog Box with some success (depends on the sound card)http://www.andyware.com/abox2/and Stomperhttp://www.lysator.liu.se/~zap/stomper/index2.htmlAs usual, when possible disable your PC’s midi synth chip to remove insane background noise and yes a DC offset as the poster has done :) PCs are an amazing tool and so versatile! Best of luck to all :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372815",
"author": "itisravi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:28:16",
"content": "One can also use Scilab,the open source equivalent of MATLAB",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372818",
"author": "elpelao",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:33:58",
"content": "nice proyectby the way, if you dont have a copy of Matlab, you could use octave, or qtoctave. It’s quite similar and free",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372823",
"author": "mjrippe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:43:06",
"content": "A transformer would be another simple solution, although possibly more costly.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372853",
"author": "George",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T16:48:21",
"content": "Tagging on to previous commenters, there’s also Freemat, in addition to Octave and Scilab, that comprises good free/open source Matlab alternatives",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372919",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T18:28:46",
"content": "Since we are talking software for the audio card here’s a link to VA (free)http://www.sillanumsoft.org/prod01.htm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372924",
"author": "ryan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T18:39:17",
"content": "Really simple concept used within software defined radio for generating/decoding downshifted signals.DReaM is an open source DRM and SDR software for transmitting via audiocard. Might be worth hacking together some code from there to produce an open source signal genetator.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372930",
"author": "apolo8",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T18:48:42",
"content": "I really enjoy this kind of projects.I suppose that using matlab or scilab will have the same 20000hz limit.I’m planning on building my own workshop and you (HaD),are plenty of really cool ideas.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373037",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:06:47",
"content": "Block the DC offset with a cap?Any reason why he isn’t doing this instead. It would be a 10c fix. It doesn’t isolate the computer from the circuit, but neither does an op amp. an optical isolator or transformer should be used if galvanic separation of the circuits is desired. Sure the cap will have some LF roll-off, but with a properly sized cap you can have it low enough as to not affect anything adversely.I would just solder a 1uF polypropylene cap in between a male and female 1/8″ stereo jack. This is what I use for testing amplifiers etc. With the fairly low (5 ohms? IIRC) of my laptop it blocks the DC while letting my play the necessary tones to test the amp. It was actually DC from the amp I was blocking, as it was for a car amplifier and the input floats at 6VDC. For tones I use winISD, but audacity is probably just as good.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373041",
"author": "threepointone",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:07:59",
"content": "Going to be honest. . .if you knew anything about sound card outputs, you’d realize that he didn’t quite figure out what was going on.Typically your el-cheapo sound card will probably use cheap high voltage offset op amps (which turns into something significant). It all boils down to having a significant DC offset on the output, which can damage headphones and other loads connected to it. The easy, brute force (but often cheapest) way of solving this problem is to throw the biggest, cheapest output capacitor in series on the output which won’t filter out too much of the low end of the audio spectrum when you form the RC high pass filter with the impedance of your headphones (or audio load).So what’s happening here? When he says that the DC offset is being slowly “cancelled” out by the sound card, he actually means that the output capacitor I mentioned above was being charged by the oscilloscope input impedance. I admit the numbers from his waveform don’t seem to quite add up (I would have expected it to take VERY long to discharge given the 1M impedance of the scope probe, beyond what’s even observable at his timescale), but this could be due to leakage in the craptastic capacitor they usually use or more likely just that I haven’t crunched the numbers at all out of that waveform.Anyway, when it comes down to it, there is really no need for whatever nonsense he did here with an active op amp. If you run into this problem, the easiest way to deal with it is wire a resistor in parallel (basically load the output with something small, like 1k or 100 ohm resistor). Remember, headphones are usually <32 ohms, so this (should be) easy as pie for the output stage of the sound card. This resistor will keep the output capacitor charged to the correct offset voltage. If that didn't work, you'd stick another DC blocking cap of a lower value depending on what you want to load it with (and higher quality, i.e. lower leakage current or just a more expensive electrolytic) and another loading resistor to keep that cap charged.And if that didn't work, well, this circuit's pretty darn silly by almost any standard. Why? you have to manually trim the DC offset! WHAT??? You can block DC using a cap and then an op amp, if loading becomes an issue (the input impedance of an op amp is so large that you get limited by your bias resistor, so the numbers usually work out to you being able to use either a low-uF range ceramic or plastic capacitor) If that doesn't work sufficiently for whatever reason I can't even imagine, you can have a two op-amp DC servo design, but I don't know why you'd ever have to go so far for some silly audio frequency amplifier.In short, there are SO MANY easier ways to solve this problem. . .and needing a trimpot to \"cancel out DC offset\" of this scale (100s of mV) is just really silly. It certainly makes sense when you're trying to cancel out the DC offset of the op amp, but that's on the order of mV and you wouldn't configure the circuit like this. . .",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1068932",
"author": "whynot",
"timestamp": "2013-10-03T16:47:33",
"content": "It’s not a matter of trimming away VDC. His circuit is there to be able to add a VDC to the signal, to be able to shift it up or down as desired. The soundcard won’t give you anything that is not centered around 0V, so if you would want a biased signal swinging from, say 0-1V instead of -0.5-0.5V, you’d need to add that voltage yourself.It’s a summing amplifier which he uses to DC-bias and attenuate the signal to fit his microcontroller projects. Not to block DC, of which there is none on soundcard outputs.",
"parent_id": "373041",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "373116",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T00:32:47",
"content": "For clarity. he’s trying to get a waveform and to ADD an (selectable) DC offset, not remove it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373123",
"author": "Chthonus",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T01:03:40",
"content": "Max/MSP (for a bit of money) or PureData (if you like open source) are also very good for quick signal generation.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373141",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T01:50:53",
"content": "I could be wrong for most uses of a PC software sound card generator, would work fine without this circuit. How often is a rectified AC output is need from a signal generator?Again I could be wrong this circuit is is not to block DC from the sound card as other comments suggest, but to add positive DC voltage for digital controller purposes.This is the first read the term DC offset. After doing some brief reading on it, I think the use of the trm here is mis use",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373165",
"author": "caff",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T02:31:48",
"content": "I wonder if it would be practical to buy a $2 usb soundcard and just remove or bypass the output coupling capacitor to get a cheapie DC capable output.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1068946",
"author": "whynot",
"timestamp": "2013-10-03T17:05:55",
"content": "Soundcards are not designed to supply DC-current, so it could potentially be damaging, or atleast distort the signal if to much current is drawn. So basically, no.",
"parent_id": "373165",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "373267",
"author": "error404",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T06:33:02",
"content": "Couldn’t you just add DC bias with a resistive divider instead of the opamp? It’s already AC-coupled at the soundcard output, just add the DC you need.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1068943",
"author": "whynot",
"timestamp": "2013-10-03T17:02:19",
"content": "This would most certainly affect impedance, and load down the soundcard output. But then again, if you use the headphone output, it is designed to be loaded with an impedance in the 100’eds range of ohms. The op-amplifier has really high input impedance, which is probably what the soundcard line outputs would want to see.With a resistive network, the signal would see an impedance of R1//R2//Rload, with R1 and R2 being your voltage divider, and Rload being whatever you hook it up to. This amounts to an input signal impedance of less than the smallest of R1,2,load, and could potentially draw more current from the soundcard than it was designed for.",
"parent_id": "373267",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "373506",
"author": "Hat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T15:36:25",
"content": "I love how Fallen and threepointone completely missed the point. He’s trying to ADD a DC offset to the output of his AC-coupled soundcard, guys. Anyone who has any actual experience with electronics probably knows that generating a periodic signal centered around something other than 0 V is a pretty common feature on function generators.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373533",
"author": "Aron",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:46:49",
"content": "Does anybody know of a multi output version signal generator – like 5 channels of analog out via a pc with DC to 1KHz response. I figure you could hack the sound card and short the out put caps on a 5.1 (cheap) sound card…Nice job by the way :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373756",
"author": "Parcanman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T01:44:33",
"content": "Just out of curiosity, is this a guy named Debra? I only ask since the article refers to “he” where Debra is traditionally a woman’s name.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373768",
"author": "Mike Nathan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T02:30:31",
"content": "@Parcanman,I can see where the confusion might come from, I had to do a double take the first time he contacted us and linked a video. His name is indeed Debraj, not Debra.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373781",
"author": "Debraj",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T03:14:01",
"content": "@Parcanman,My name is indeed “Debraj” and I am a guy!! :-) I am from India.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373986",
"author": "blue_carbuncle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T13:32:49",
"content": "@Aron not sure what you’re asking for really? Are you trying to do 5.1 SPL/tuning or multichannel input tracking on another unit? My quick and dirty answer is to simply generate the signal in an audio program (still a cool edit pro man myself), do your dc offsetting and/or bandpass filtering, and use a 5.1 output plugin (matter of taste) to check your timing/phase/etc. Otherwise I always enjoyed “el-cheapo” surround sound or quad-like where you take both A/B speaker sets on an old amp, set A as front field and wire normally. For the rear two on B, only plug in the two positive leads and simplt twist the two negative leads on the rear speakers together :) I’ve done this countless times with old stereo units when I was much much younger :) SNES in surround when you are 14 and only have the family’s old Symphonic stereo? yep lol. Hope this helps ya or maybe sparks another step for ya. I wasn’t really sure what you were asking, so sorry if I totally missed the point and feel free to clarify :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "414549",
"author": "Stu",
"timestamp": "2011-07-08T06:13:04",
"content": "I would suggest getting matlab. The program is very powerful and can do all sorts of data manipulation. I go to Georgia Tech E.E major nothing better for signal processing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,225.247581
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/05/pid-sous-vide-slow-cooker-bon-appetit/
|
PID Sous-Vide Slow Cooker – Bon Appétit!
|
Jason Komp
|
[
"cooking hacks",
"home hacks"
] |
[
"cooking",
"pid",
"sous-vide"
] |
In search of a perfectly-cooked brisket, [Aaron] recently completed this DIY
PID-controlled sous-vide slow cooker
. Sous-vide (French for “under vacuum”) is a cooking technique in which foods are typically vacuum-sealed and then cooked in a relatively low temperature water bath for an extended period of time. This is done to minimize temperature gradients throughout the food to ensure even cooking. Precise regulation of the water temperature is the key to ensuring that the results are exactly as desired – when cooking for many hours or days, even a few degrees discrepancy can greatly influence the final product.
A few months ago we featured a
similar hack
that utilized a simple switching temperature controller spliced into an extension cord. Although probably sufficient for most aspiring “hacker-chefs”, the temperature was not as stable as it could be. The problem is that it takes time for the heat generated in the slow cooker’s heating element to reach the temperature probe (and food) suspended in the water bath. By the time the probe reads the elevated temperature, the element is already too hot and the temperature overshoots the target. One way to mitigate this effect is to circulate the water to minimize temperature gradients, as is done in many of the expensive commercial units. In order to achieve similar results, [Aaron] instead created a PID controller that uses temperature feedback over time to precisely maintain the desired temperature and reduce any deviations resulting from outside disturbances.
The build is covered in detail and looks great in a custom acrylic enclosure. All of the board schematics, enclosure layout files, and source code are available under Creative Commons licensing at the bottom of his blog page. A good deal of time is also spent addressing the actual PID programming and tuning – something that could be useful for many different hacks requiring precise feedback control.
The end result is a professional looking control box and a slow cooker that is able to maintain temperature within 1°F even while using a DS1820 temperature sensor that is only rated as accurate to 0.5°C (0.9°F). From the pictures it looks like [Aaron] has finally achieved brisket bliss! Now the only question remaining is: what is the best setting for reheating left-over pizza?
| 22
| 22
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374300",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:11:47",
"content": "why shouldn’t it be accurate to 1 degree if the sensor is accurate to 0.9 degrees?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374307",
"author": "Wilin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:16:46",
"content": "Engineers eat cold pizza, reheating it would just ruin it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374316",
"author": "Mikey Sklar",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:31:58",
"content": "Nice work on the enclosure and good find on the thermowell.I use/make/sell a DIY kit for all purpose temperature controller. My food grade temperature probe is a little more precise down to 1/3rd a degree, but it’s not true pid and has a +/-3 degree tolerance by default in the firmware.http://screwdecaf.cx/yatc.htmlI’m surprised more people don’t add a generic wall plug to their controllers so they can run any appliance from freezers to hot plates along with the obvious crock pot applications for sous-vide.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374317",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:33:33",
"content": "WAIT?!? Why would you want to reheat leftover pizza. It’s best room temp the next morning!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374320",
"author": "SexieWASD",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:36:13",
"content": "I agree with cold pizza.It’s a nice hack, I just don’t like the idea of evenly heating food, particualy meats. The temperature variation from the outside to the center over the time it is cooked is a large part of what gives a fresh hot meal that fresh hot meal experience. This seams a lot like making left overs the first time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374325",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:49:46",
"content": "Food cooked this way isn’t “leftover” quality.But how is this much different than taking a $30 PID / RTD thermister sensor combo and marrying it to a heating element?We have done this on several machines but never considered it much of a hack as just the practical application of a PID.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374327",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:51:31",
"content": "The enclosure and display are neat but the units we bought for $30 or $50 or so were standard DIN sized and have membrane buttons on them and a temperature display and other common controls (set point, etc) already built in. It was literally all you needed except a relay and a heating element.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374341",
"author": "eric",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T22:12:59",
"content": "@CutThroughStuffGuy:I recently built a sous-vide cooker with one of the $40 Chinese PID controllers and a solid-state relay. I believe these are the components to which you refer in your post.The cheap PID controllers only output an ON or OFF signal, whereas Aaron’s (quite impressive) project has 256 levels of power. I believe this allows him to use different equations for determining the starting guesses for the P, I, and D values.Aaron does a good job of explaining the basics of PID control, and even includes the transfer function he based upon which he based his design.@everyone else:I used a $20 submersible aquarium pump in my sous-vide cooker to provide better heat transfer and also to help minimize temperature gradients in the bath.With a PT-100 resistive temperature device my rig maintains a temperature within 0.2F of my setpoint.You would be amazed at how tender cheap cuts of meat get after 48 or 72 hours in the bath. Finish off with a blowtorch (I highly encourage cooking with a blowtorch) and you’ve got some good eats.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374361",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T23:08:43",
"content": "Yes, I believe you are correct that the ones I have experience only turn on and off only and are unable to regulate the degree of “on”. That may be the “B” curve method he talks about.That leads me to believe that his method is superior at tight temperature control but the method I am using is extremely cheap and easy to integrate and probably holds less than +/- 5 degrees vs +/- 1 degree.I don’t fault his design – it is solid. It just seems like crazy overkill for only a slight gain but that is usually how it goes!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374367",
"author": "Valen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T23:13:29",
"content": "For bonus points he could use peltier and heat sink(cold sink?) as the heat source. (perhaps some added insulation) for “environmentally friendly cooking”.Double bonus, High rate (10hz) PID control the peltier with a close coupled temperature sensor (ie mounted on the hot side of the element itself)Then vary the set point with a second PID with a sensor in the water.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374402",
"author": "Dan Afonso",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T00:54:01",
"content": "Good job. I did a similar project using a crappy, Chinese PID controller on my crockpot. The only advise I would have is to try and make everything into a single unit so you don’t have a lot of wires running around, but I have to say that the case is very nice looking.Oh, and don’t use a crappy, Chinese PID controller. Turns out they lack a certain something we like to call “calibration”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374504",
"author": "r_d",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T04:53:59",
"content": "@Valen:“with a close coupled temperature sensor (ie mounted on the hot side of the element itself)”Correct me if I’m wrong, but isn’t that the opposite of what you should be doing? You really want to control the temperature of the food/water, not the heater itself.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374615",
"author": "Meurig",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T08:53:02",
"content": "Having tried the chinese PID controller + SSR + PT100 + crock pot method, I found the results less than impressive, with a lot of overshoot in the temperatures and not much stability.This was all fixed when I switched from a crock pot to a deep fat fryer (filled with water, not oil) as the heating element instead of the crock pot. Temperature control is now ‘perfect’ taking about 2 minutes to get up to temperature and I’ve never seen it deviate from the setting on the pid (0.1C resolution).I believe crock pots are less than ideal because of the underpowered heating element and the separation of the water from the heat source by the thick ceramic pot which makes control difficult. Switch to something with more power and the heating element in direct (or close) contact with the water, you’ll be a lot happier.FWIW the autotune on the chinese PID is great, but it lacks the ability to record the temperatures which would be possible with an arduino.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374640",
"author": "Evan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T10:10:09",
"content": "@r_dIt depends on what you want. The key to a stable feedback loop is to keep the loop delay small — changes in the control output should be reflected in the measurement input as fast as possible. The slower the response time, the lower the gain you can have, and the less good you are at rejecting transients. Therefore, for extremely stable temperature control you actually want to put the sensor near the heating element, as long as you have a nice heat spreader (such as a metal can). It will take longer to warm up to the initial setpoint — it won’t “over-drive” the heater as much to get up to the operating point, but it will be much more stable once it is going.In a completely enclosed chamber like a slow cooker where the walls have good thermal conductivity this is often enough — if all the walls are at a constant temperature, the inside can’t help but track properly. For absolute stability and accuracy, you would put a temperature sensor near the heating element with a fast responding PID, then put a sensor near the food with a much slower PID that adjusts the setpoint of the fast PID.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374649",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T10:31:18",
"content": "“environmentally friendly” and peltier heater should not appear in the same sentence. Peltiers (TECs) are heat pumps; hugely inefficient ones at that. Just use a heating element.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374659",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T10:50:54",
"content": "Something smells good, but wires all over the counter yech. The classy box has the wires coming out the front running all over the place. They belong on the back! The sensor wires aren’t even in a single jacket, white. At least take a few seconds to twist them together.2 questionsWhat is PID (xxxyyyzzz)What is the vacuum (inches-water or Hg) and sealing lid wire pass-thru etc.None of this apparent on the link.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374692",
"author": "Jim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T12:11:39",
"content": "@PedroGiven a good enough heat sink on the cold side Peltiers give out almost twice as much heat on the hot side than they consume in power making them almost 200% efficient. This is because they pull heat in from the cold side whilst also heating resistively. The problem with using a TEC would be the operating temperature which is usually 125 deg C.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374695",
"author": "Kent",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T12:15:30",
"content": "@echodelta:“What is PID (xxxyyyzzz)”PID stands for Proportional/Integral/Derivative. It is a class of control algorithms that attempt to hit the desired control point, in this case temperature, using a feedback control loop.The Proportional/Integral/Derivative part simply refers to the fact that there’s a constant or “gain” associated with the temperature error, the time-derivative of the temperature error (how fast your temperatures are changing), and the time-integral of the temperature error (this corrects for small errors over a long time period).PID is set up so once you’ve chosen your PID “type”, all you have to do is adjust those three gains to fit your specific needs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374717",
"author": "Hacksaw",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T12:49:12",
"content": "reheating cold pizza…Sacre’bleu!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374769",
"author": "eric",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T14:54:19",
"content": "@Meurig:That is interesting that the deep fat fryer is so much more responsive, especially avoiding overshoot. With no active cooling, even low overshoot tends to take a long time to cool down in my experience.With my turkey oven (think large crockpot without ceramic walls) I have to manually correct overshoot by adding cold water for the first hour or so…but after that it’s completely hands-off for the duration of the cooking.I am slowly working on adding a datalogger to my PID so I can chart time and temperature.@CutThroughStuffGuy:In cooking, 5F can be a big difference, especially after 72 hours. Most professional sous-vide cookers tout (incorrectly) that they are accurate to 0.1C (.18F) degrees.@Dan Afonso:Your unit may be different, but my $40 chinese PID has an adjustable temperature offset (in lieu of calibration). It’s not nearly as good as a calibration curve, but given the small range of temperatures at which I cook (130F to 160F) I just calibrated at 145F. The temperature error (less than 0.2F) at the extremes are negligible for me.@echodelta:This setup is not a true sous-vide setup because there is no vacuum. It is more accurate to call it a low-temperature water bath.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375327",
"author": "Meurig",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T11:04:53",
"content": "@ericI feel your pain with the overshoots, that’s the exact behaviour I was seeing. It became especially bad when I tried to insulate my crockpot (wrapped in in towels) this just amplified the overshoot.@Evan might be on to something with using two sensors, one on the heating side and one in the water. In lieu of trying that, putting the heating as thermally close to the water as possible seemed to do the trick.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "534025",
"author": "wshyang",
"timestamp": "2011-12-13T09:54:57",
"content": "Hey guys,I am not too much of an engineer, more of a software guy :)But I am really puzzled by how this works, and in particular about the home made Sous Vide bits ;)* Will this design be applicable to a 240V mains?* Is this thing essentially a PID that varies the output from the mains power, and regulate that supply to the crock pot?* I also presume you need a “dumb” crockpot without any fancy LCD controls and all that might fail to work when you feed the crockpot anything between 0V to what it is supposed to receive?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,225.57944
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/05/xbox-360-briefcase-is-ready-to-go-wherever-you-do/
|
Xbox 360 Briefcase Is Ready To Go Wherever You Do
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Xbox Hacks"
] |
[
"briefcase",
"portable",
"xbox"
] |
Hackaday forum member [azazelcrey] recently wrote in to share his
portable Xbox 360 build
. This is not his first attempt at constructing one of these, as he completed his first portable console a few years back. This time, he has taken what he learned from the first go round, making his newest creation a bit cleaner and more compact.
He sourced an LCD monitor with built-in speakers to use as the display, mounting it into a $20 metal-sided suitcase from Home Depot. He disassembled his Xbox and added it to the case, installing a couple extra fans to keep things cool. Some standard Xbox functions were externalized, allowing him to power on the console, load games, and synchronize controllers, all while keeping the briefcase shut.
This obviously isn’t something that you would carry on a train or bus for on-the-go gaming, but it’s a great way to travel with your Xbox as well as a handful of gear. We imagine this rugged, fully-contained gaming center is quite useful for one-off Xbox LAN parties, and it seems like it would be a good way to get your game on if stuck overnight in a hotel.
Check out his web site if you are interested in seeing
his first build
or
more pictures of this one
.
| 17
| 17
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374288",
"author": "Abbott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T20:46:59",
"content": "Not bad. Needs a little finishing, but looks good otherwise.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374339",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T22:09:28",
"content": "Not to be a downer but this isn’t much of a hack. A LCD monitor was affixed to the inside of a suitcase and a xbox 360 was placed inside. Not much technical know how was required for it. I mean heck it has to be open to play so why bother cutting a slot for the dvd drive? why not just keep it concealed inside but angled upwards for a clean exterior and easier disc loading experience?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374368",
"author": "Krz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T23:15:23",
"content": "Have to agree with anon … why was it necessary to disassemble the xbox at all? Certainly not to keep things neat and tidy. If the only reason is “just because”, that’s fine … but I’m genuinely curious why he chose to hack everything apart.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374458",
"author": "Davo1111",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T02:54:42",
"content": "xbox 360 isnt that thick. I would have created a bracket to secure the xbox in, then just thrown it straight in. I wouldn’t have cut in a hole for the cd drive anyway, the briefcase is going to be open, so might as well make the cd drive open where the controller is installed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374460",
"author": "Abbott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T03:11:03",
"content": "Wish I could edit/remove a post… This is actually quite terrible. I went back and looked at his web site this time. The LCD screen could stand to be removed from the housing, and flush mounted with the case (It’d probably fit quite easily). The cover over the X360 needs to be secured down. The DVD drive needs a new face panel to match the briefcase, instead of using the stock curved panel (Also needs a panel to hide it). Run cooling fans out the bottom/back of the briefcase, and in from the side. It will look much cleaner and be much more effective at cooling the unit. Instead of using an Ethernet coupler in the back, invest in a keystone jack/plate for a better look, and more secure mount.I’m sorry to be so harsh, but this could have been done much more effectively.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374491",
"author": "XBMC^N",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T04:23:49",
"content": "If the person who made this is over the age of 12, it has no business being posted here.Otherwise, kudos.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374493",
"author": "azazelcrey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T04:39:00",
"content": "Really it was just something I did for fun. I planed on making a new faceplate for the DVD drive nobody said this was a completed project. the cover that I made from Plexiglas was only sitting there and not secured down because I was taking pictures of it while I was building it.If you look at some of the other pictures you will see the Dvd drive has a plate over the top of it to hide it better.The Lcd screen has been removed from the housing the only part of it that you can see is the bezel and I like the silver look. I can do alot better and plan on it next time but for a 10 or less hours project it was fun. It beats carting a duffel bag of loose accessories around.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374503",
"author": "zDev",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T04:50:17",
"content": "The guys website makes me laugh. It starts out with “Hi My name is, Philip Nickerson. I am 23 and creating my own business. I have been building and rebuilding Computers since I was 9 years old,” and has no less than his xbox avatar on it, a picture of a transformer, and a “straight out of the 90’s” flash banner.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374507",
"author": "azazelcrey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T04:57:05",
"content": "The only way to get the power brick and the rest of the 360 in this particular briefcase without it over heating was to take at apart, cut extra vent holes, modify the wires and place the drive where it wouldn’t interfere with the handle/hinges of the brief case. And still Work in progress…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374619",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T09:15:42",
"content": "This does look pretty rough, I have to agree.I think I turned out a few rough looking projects in my day.It gives you a clear idea of what capabilities need to be augmented so the next one is better.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374660",
"author": "MikeyMikeMike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T10:53:15",
"content": "Wow, I have to say that one or two of the comments I am reading are really encouraging to someone starting out. Not!Yeah, let’s all rubbish someone for trying and for not being “LEET” enough to do something more complex and challenging.Just because some of you are capable of so much more doesn’t mean simple projects like this aren’t of interest to others wanting to start having a go and don’t know much to begin with or how to proceed.Give the guy a break, he’s trying, it’s a %&*£#@ prototype, not a factory finished sale item.Constructive criticisms are fine but rubbishing someone and their idea because it doesn’t suit peoples desired complexity level is darned immature, arrogant and ignorant if you ask me.Everyone started somewhere once, even you!Would it hurt those harsh people to offer some encouragement or do they want the hobby all for themselves?If these are the kinds of comments making an effort is rewarded with, then I don’t think I’ll bother signing up thanks.As a beginner, my projects certainly won’t be “leet” or glamorous enough.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374694",
"author": "azazelcrey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T12:13:13",
"content": "Its just something I put together in a hurry with stuff I had laying around the house, It would be much better If better materials/equipment. I only invested a few dollars in it and now I can take my xbox anywhere without carting around a bunch of stuff which was my only goal in the first place. I wasn’t trying to impress a bunch of critics.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374723",
"author": "jaqen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T13:00:49",
"content": "well if it was a prototype, first try or whatever, I wouldn’t post it for display on this site, knowing what quality commenters here expect.If i ever post a project here, it won’t be until done something in a new ingenious way, or made something with a finish that looks like a million.I praise my kids for their helpless drawings because they put an effort into it. I wouldn’t recommend them posting something for review until they learned a bit more.If all you want is a pat on your back and a “keep at it” this might not be the place to post :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374731",
"author": "Scott Smith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T13:24:19",
"content": "This build make babby cry.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374791",
"author": "JamieWho",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T15:43:45",
"content": "Just thought I would say good job. Personally, I would also have taken off the housing for the power supply to shorten things up there, but otherwise, it provides a good concept to those without Ben Heck’s level of tools and materials available. Seriously, I don’t have any access to a laser cutter, and I’m not buying 4×8 sheets of material to make a custom case for my xbox.I may go buy a briefcase from a yard sale though and try something like this.Also, I would recommend using a widescreen LCD, they just look so much better when gaming. If you’re on xbox live and play Black Ops send me a FR. Gamertag is my name on this post.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375070",
"author": "gingertoast",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T01:11:12",
"content": "I’ve done this tons of times for LAN parties. This is the simplest thing anyone can do. So props to the 5yo. fail for the 30yo",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "402495",
"author": "Wedge",
"timestamp": "2011-06-07T04:58:36",
"content": "@gingertoast“I’ve done this tons of times for LAN parties” – if you do it right, once should be enough, eh? Fail to you, sir.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,225.505114
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/05/hacking-automated-hand-sanitizers-with-ben-heck/
|
Hacking Automated Hand Sanitizers With Ben Heck
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"ben heck",
"hand sanitizer",
"propeller"
] |
If you have visited a hospital any time recently, you probably noticed quite a few automated hand sanitizer dispensers scattered throughout the hallways and in each patient’s room. Since hospital-acquired infections are a growing problem, there has been a push for all personnel to use these hand sanitizers regularly to lessen the likelihood of spreading disease.
In the
most recent episode of his web show
, [Ben Heck] took on the challenge of hacking one of these dispensers to use motion sensors in order to sense when hospital personnel are near, as well as to remind them that they should sanitize their hands on the way out.
He disassembled the dispenser to see how it operated, then worked on replacing the IR sensor pair with a set of motion detectors. He hooked the motion sensors to a Propeller board, which uses a separate add-on board for keeping time. Once the motion sensors are triggered, the passer-by is given a window of time before the machine notifies them to kindly sanitize their hands. All movements and sanitizer dispensing events are logged to an SD card connected to the controller, which can be reviewed to ensure policy compliance.
If you have about 20 minutes to spare it’s worth checking out, and if you are interested in more hand washing tech, check out
this DIY hand dryer
we featured a while back.
| 9
| 9
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374248",
"author": "Nick McClanahan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:48:27",
"content": "Hey, Ben’s using a Propeller Platform USB! Also, is it me, or does he sound intentionally robotic when reading the Element14 plug?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374258",
"author": "Brian.Holiday",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:55:07",
"content": "It’s not just you. It is tough reading a prepared statement and trying to sound natural. Took me quite a while to master it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374268",
"author": "The Longhorn Engineer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T20:23:35",
"content": "“Please wash you hands Dave.”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374342",
"author": "Dino",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T22:17:42",
"content": "Really bad McCoy impersonation… :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374352",
"author": "Brennan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T22:38:05",
"content": "@NickHe has used the propeller on more than one episode. The one I remember on the top of my head was when he used a micro to control pinball machine components. He was using the SPIN language on his PC",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374381",
"author": "Biomed Bob",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T23:34:35",
"content": "I happen to work in the medical industry on the equipement (bedside monitors, infusion pumps, defibrillators, etc) and while I have to admit I like this hack from the point of reminding everyone to sanitize, I guarantee this is the perfect way to really tick off all the nurses. Only from the point that they’ll argue that they have enough that they have to do and keep track of. That, and they WILL find new and interesting ways to break it….(Speaking from 15 years of dealing with nurses from the equipment side)Doesn’t change the fact that this is a great idea though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374400",
"author": "error404",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T00:46:29",
"content": "Mult-im-eter hehe.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374454",
"author": "Davo1111",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T02:48:14",
"content": "I agree with Biomed Bob, it’s going to piss off the nurses. Especially if the results are pulled from the device and they face criticism for when its not used.A much easier way (without the logging) would be to buy a door chime (similar to the beep when you enter a shop) and replace the speaker with an LED)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374844",
"author": "Djibouti",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T18:00:00",
"content": "Many larger hospitals are already tracking nurses and equipment, and adding the hand sanitizers on top of that tracking only makes sense. In some places nurses only wash about 8% of the time they enter or exit a room! Systems like this will be great for helping to point out how few ppl are actually clean enough to interact with patients.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,225.631149
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/05/chill-your-phone-for-longer-battery-life/
|
Chill Your Phone For Longer Battery Life?
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Cellphone Hacks"
] |
[
"battery",
"cooler",
"heat sink",
"lithium",
"peltier"
] |
The first specs we look at when choosing a cellphone are the battery life numbers. We know that eventually we’re going to see performance loss, and [Dr. West] wanted to see if there’s a way to delay the inevitable. What he found is that ambient temperature affects the battery throughout its life. He set out to
build a phone chiller to slow the degradation of the battery
.
The research that he points to shows that at room temperature, a Lithium battery will lose 20% of its capacity each year. This seems like a dubious number so do share links to studies that state otherwise in the comments. Whether that 20% is right or not, the point is that cooling the battery will preserve it. With that in mind, [Dr. West] put together a pod that uses a peltier cooler and a heat sink to host his Blackberry while he sleeps. He figures he can reduce the capacity lost per year from 20% down to 14%. This of course comes at the expense of running that cooler every night (in addition to charging the phone when it needs it). But perhaps this solution will spark an idea that leads to a better one.
| 45
| 44
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374134",
"author": "valbaca",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:05:56",
"content": "good idea. perhaps having something that taps into your already-running refrigerator for cooling power (as opposed to just putting your cell in the freezer or pulling watts from the outlet). I do already make a habit of taking my phone out of my pocket as often as possible as room temperature is better for the battery than a stuffy pocket next to my body.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374139",
"author": "Jakezilla",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:13:49",
"content": "http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteriesBattery University is a great site with info from Ph.D chemists and people in the industry that dispels a lot of myths and hear-say. After reading a lot, it seems like keeping the battery topped off is a better and easier way to prolong your battery’s life.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374140",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:15:22",
"content": "The idea is nice… but it’s terribly impractical.I highly doubt that the cost of materials plus energy used will balance say…an extra battery through the life of the phone.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374143",
"author": "Dale",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:17:46",
"content": "Interesting, and im not trying to troll here, but wouldnt it be cheaper to just buy a new battery?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374148",
"author": "Dale",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:21:52",
"content": "What I’d like to see him elaborate on is how he figures the battery degradation and maybe some scientific data behind his hypothesis. something more than an excerpt from a Wikipedia article anyway",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374150",
"author": "Max",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:22:20",
"content": "If you read battery university as linked above its clear that keeping the battery topped off is a bad idea. It shows results of 40% loss over 3 months when kept 100% charged but a 40% charge level only loses 25% over a YEAR.I know its not really practical but keeping your battery flat seems to be the best life prolonger.So get a battery over twice as big as you need, never charge to 100% and it could last almost 8 times as long.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374153",
"author": "Mark Roy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:26:13",
"content": "So lets say you spend ~50 Watts cooling your phone (likely more than this) per night. Where I live, my energy costs $0.0662 / kwH (which I’m led to believe is quite cheap for North America).50Watts * 8hours = 0.40kwH per night. 0.40kWH * 0.0662 = $0.02648 per day. Lets assume that the life of a battery is ~3 years (maybe a bit generous), then the energy cost is 0.02648*365*3 = $28.99.Presuming this does increase the batter life by 6% then in order for it to be worth the money spent on the cooling energy the cost of 6% of a replacement battery must by more than $28.99. My galaxy s phone battery costs $15 on ebay (likely a cheap knock-off) and $50 brand new from Samsung.Nice thought, but likely not worth it in the long run for only a 6% improvement in life. Might be a better plan to try and rig up a charger in your freezer, that way its not using much “extra” energy for this purpose.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374163",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:32:59",
"content": "I’ve been keeping my batteries in the refrigerator for years.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374166",
"author": "Davorak",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:34:01",
"content": "Maybe a mini-fridge near the bed with the ear phone out going to an amp and a speaker. That way you can hear you phone when it rings, save battery life and have cold drinks bedside to boot.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374168",
"author": "jerm1386",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:34:35",
"content": "yes, a lithium-ion cell will self-dishcarge and degrade at a lower rate when it is in lower temperatures, and is a good idea for storage.BUTthe internal resistance will also increase, so when you are draining it more energy will be lost to the internal resistance than at a higher temperature.SOif he wants to put the battery in the freezer for several days or more while he’s not using it, that will slow the degradation and be beneficial. But if the battery is in a device he uses every day (especially if it’s periodically throughout the day), it might actually drain faster, causing him to cycle the battery more and killing it sooner. it has the potential to keep the battery healthy longer, but also the potential to kill it off sooner.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374169",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:35:42",
"content": "@Mark Roy Thanks for putting in the numbers. You also didn’t account for the price of the materials which might never make it in the favor of the cooling system.Also, the statement of the battery losing 20% per year is related to storage, not using the battery.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374171",
"author": "Bill D. Williams",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:37:22",
"content": "“The first specs we look at when choosing a cellphone are the battery life numbers.”Who writes this drivel? No one chooses a phone like that.You know what – I really suspect you guys get paid per post, and there are days you just have to pull something out of your hind-side to make a buck. And the only way you can make a post like this fly is to load it up with some crazy statement like the first sentence.You guys know that we’re not stupid, right?Hugs and Kisses.Billy D.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374173",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:37:40",
"content": "Reading things again, he says that he turns his phone off during sleep…. which makes putting it in the fridge while recharging the obvious solution…(sorry for double comment)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374185",
"author": "BadWolf",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:50:00",
"content": "My experience tells me that when a battery is almost dead,you just gotta warm it up to crank up the battery a bit. Isn’t cooling them just slowing the chemical reaction inside it and therefore outputting less power than specified?My point here is that the battery will loose 20% of it’s “power” over a year of continuous recharge/discharge cycles, so the loss is accounted to the chemical reaction starting to be less effective for some precises reasons. Therefore cooling it would make it last longer in the long run,but with a lesser output.Kinda like the Watts formula,in a sense.Total output is fixed,defined by Lifetime X Discharge rate.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374191",
"author": "James",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:56:33",
"content": "“No one chooses a phone like that.”It’s certainly in the top 2 important features of a phone for me. Don’t assume that because you don’t think that way that no-one does.Also, as mentioned earlier, cooling a battery reduces its effective capacity and output voltage, meaning that for a portion of the extended life you’re giving it, it’s less usable?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374197",
"author": "jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:01:54",
"content": "you could just chuck the battery in the fridge when you go to sleep at night. or the entire phone.then you dont have to waste profuse quantities of energy on a TEC…personally i would just buy replacement batteries when the need arises. they are cheap online. yes it’s not sustainable but nothing about cell phones is.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374199",
"author": "andrew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:03:12",
"content": "I’d incorporate some kind of dew-point/humidity sensor to prevent condensation if he hasn’t already.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374203",
"author": "cfox",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:08:54",
"content": "Battery life is probably what I look for right after figuring out the type of phone I want (droid, ios, etc.)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374205",
"author": "Mark Roy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:15:59",
"content": "@bogdan I gave him the benefit of the doubt on the cost of materials and assumed he had all the stuff lying around and thus it didnt cost him anything. Otherwise you would have to amortize the cost of the rig over the number of years you actually use it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374217",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:36:45",
"content": "Cooling lithium batteries normally makes them not able to give out full voltage so I would think in the initial power on after cooling the current draw will be much higher than if the battery would be in ambient temperature.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374220",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:40:24",
"content": "@MaxIIRC keeping a battery flat also has bad consequences. You said it right in the first paragraph: a 40% charge is the best for storage of lithium ion batteries.Further checking confirms this, the battery university article linked also recommends a 40% charge level for storage, and states that this is also the level recommended by manufacturers.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374265",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T20:10:10",
"content": "I know hot laptop batteries die within a year, so this may have some merrit, though I’m doubting the 20% a year claim.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374283",
"author": "GameboyRMH",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T20:36:41",
"content": "Cheaper idea: Just rest your phone on an old upside-down CPU heatsink while it’s charging. This will help keep the phone from heating up too much during charging. It will make even less difference, but it doesn’t require any energy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374308",
"author": "mjn",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:18:22",
"content": "I used to work for a Li-ion battery manufacturer. Hopefully I can shed some light on things.Yes, his technique of turning off the phone and cooling it overnight should extend the life of his battery.Yes, as mentioned previously, it is best to store your cells partially charged – fully charged cells degrade the fastest.Yes, higher temperature -> faster degradation.Yes, lower temperatures -> higher internal resistance. But this isn’t a permanent effect – it only lasts as long as the cell is cold. This shouldn’t matter for what he’s doing though, since his phone is off when it is being cooled, and it should warm up fairly quickly once he turns it on and puts it in his pocket.One more fact that hasn’t been mentioned: over the life time of a cell, exposing the cell to higher temperatures -> higher internal resistance. So if you want the best possible cell, you leave it cold as long as possible, then bring it up to room temp when you need it.His method is fine by me. If a bit silly and inefficient.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374312",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:22:42",
"content": "And you want to keep a 2.5 year old Blackberry operational why?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374314",
"author": "giomini",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:27:12",
"content": "maybe after two years of cell cooling, he will pay for the bill more than the cost of a new battery",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374328",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T21:51:49",
"content": "Here’s a real-world example of lithium battery output relating to temperature:During winter, in temperatures approaching and certainly below 5 degrees C (and definitely below 0c), the range I get out of the lithium battery on my ebike is noticably reduced compared to summer temperatures.If I visit friends in cold weather I have to bring the battery inside with me or the return journey can become much harder than in warm weather as the battery can’t deliver the same level of power as the initial journey.I seem to be getting about 2 years out of an ebike battery before the capacity drops to around 1/3 to 1/4, sure it can be expensive getting a replacement but it’s cheap compared to the ever rising price of petrol here in the UK. And next time I’m looking at re-celling and old pack rather than buy a new one, should save me a bundle.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374343",
"author": "CG",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T22:18:48",
"content": "I remember reading an article somewhere about a hiker who had gotten lost. He put his phone battery in the snow to keep the charge (and possibly give it a bit of a boost?) in between check-ins with the emergency crew who was looking for him.I can’t seem to find it now, but this reminds me of it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374349",
"author": "ReKlipz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T22:33:07",
"content": "I think it goes without saying that the best way to prolong death of a battery is to simply not use it. That is, plug in your phone when you can. USB Type A to USB Micro-B cables are cheap, and most folks sitting at desks have a USB port within reach. For those who work in areas where this is forbidden, AC adapters with USB Micro-B termination are also cheap.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "375703",
"author": "Max",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:50:38",
"content": "You would think so but that means you will be keeping the charge level high which destroys the lifetime of the battery. That one charge will last for longer but next time you charge it probably you’ve lost a percent of total. capacity and evenually a full charge wont last any time at all.",
"parent_id": "374349",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "374351",
"author": "Dr.West",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T22:36:43",
"content": "mjn, thank you so much for your comments! I was hoping someone with a background such as yours would provide some insight.And yes, my project is definitely silly and inefficient lol. This was just a day of curiosity and fun for me, and the main purpose was to make a bit of buzz around this idea and see what other people think about it. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374389",
"author": "Flecko",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T23:49:04",
"content": "Interesting idea, but ultimately not worth the small extension in life you get.I work at a Lithium Ion plant as well, and can tell you one fact that everyone always forgets. The DoD (depth of discharge for everyone that didn’t follow the Battery University link) has by far the greatest impact on life. If you just keep your phone on the charger as often as you can (at work and overnight) your battery will last FAAAR longer than anything else other trick you might hear.This is far more effective than storing at 40-50% SOC, keeping it cool during use, or any other gimmicks people discuss. And believe it or not, used up Lithium Ion cells aren’t hard to dispose of and simply replace. I would suggest that if your battery capacity is getting low, plop down the 20 or so dollars to get a new one, and take your old one to a reputable battery recycler.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374399",
"author": "hammy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T00:40:30",
"content": "Yes, I’d like to cool my phone overnight so that it becomes covered in condensation the following morning when I remove it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374426",
"author": "derrickgott007",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T02:26:29",
"content": "Chilling a battery will DECREASE battery life. I work outside in sub freezing temps many times and just 45 mins in the cold will cause battery life to drop to less than 30%. get back into the heated building and after a while it goes back to full charge.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374450",
"author": "derrickgott007",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T02:35:37",
"content": "At work we go through many batteries over the course of a year due to the cold.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374479",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T03:28:06",
"content": "“No one chooses a phone like that.”I always make sure there is extended battery for phone",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374585",
"author": "Max",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T07:19:48",
"content": "Ok then, some people DO choose their phone like that. Happy?Everybody else is aware that handset manufacturers specify battery runtime while smoking pot / being high on crack / magic mushrooms / whatever, and prefer to choose their phone based on OS / screen size / aesthetic appeal etc.…Oh, wait, these days every single phone is the exact same box with a touchscreen front. Sorry, my bad.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374613",
"author": "Bogdan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T08:50:53",
"content": "@Max people do chose phones on many criteria, but battery life is indeed one of them. I agree, in few cases it is the primary.Sure, manufacturers give you ideal conditions for the stated battery life, but usually you can get sufficient feedback from users to get a real life idea.@some other people: if you look at the data published by the battery university you can see that you get most out of your battery if you discharge it to 50%, you get most energy out of it. 100% discharge gives 500 cycles, total energy 500C(ignoring decreasing capacity). For 50% discharge you get 750C, for 25% you get 625C, 10% gives 470C….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374679",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T11:39:09",
"content": "Ridiculous waste of time. Powering that chiller is going to cost him more than simply replacing the battery.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374700",
"author": "hardcore",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T12:21:34",
"content": "Complete stupidity…the cost of running a Peltier will far outweigh the cost of replacing the battery or charging it.Peltier heat-pumps are some of the most environmentally unfriendly power consumers on the planet.and then there is the added stupidity of having a ‘fan’ to cool the Peltier.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374721",
"author": "Adam",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T12:57:49",
"content": "Is it surprising that cooling a battery will slow the natural effects of the reactions inside? I remember growing up with alkaline batteries in the fridge because it would make them last longer in storage than if they were at room temperature. Likewise, you can sometimes get the last bit of “juice” out of some AAs if you warm them up a bit (with body heat for example).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374773",
"author": "leafy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T15:07:36",
"content": "if people did choose their phone based on battery life then no one would have a smart phone, my £20 nokia lasts over a week on a single charge!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374906",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T19:27:43",
"content": "Sounds like crawling to work to save the soles of your shoes….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375659",
"author": "Aaron",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T19:00:48",
"content": "I bet somebody will make a ringing device that detects if there is something going on with the cell phone when it is on the freezer in a leftover food bat at night.Or you could just leave it charging all night, like I do and avoid losing battery life in the meantime!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2831595",
"author": "Davy Biggie",
"timestamp": "2015-12-10T06:55:42",
"content": "What has always worked for me in laptops and cell phones is simply the first day you set it going and again once every month or two let the battery drain to dead (usually below 10%) and then fully charge it. Then once again let it drain to below 10% again then use it normally. I still have an iPod 80gig bought back in 2004 and I am still getting over 4 hours of use out of it per charge. Maybe it’s just me?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.110629
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/05/ti-adds-some-linux-support-for-evalbot-weve-got-hardware-coupon-codes-for-you/
|
TI Adds Some Linux Support For Evalbot – We’ve Got Hardware Coupon Codes For You!
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"News"
] |
[
"arm",
"codesourcery",
"cortex-m3",
"evalbot",
"linux",
"texas instruments",
"ti"
] |
In case you missed it, Texas Instruments sells a little robot called the Evalbot as a development platform for ARM Cortex-M3 microcontrollers. Since its release we’ve seen a few hacks on the hardware; the image above is a proof of concept for
developing for the device under Linux
. We have criticized TI in the past for not natively supporting Linux with their IDEs. We’re not sure how it will play out, but they have added new software package options to go along with the hardware. You’ll notice
on their PR page
that there is now an option to use CodeSourcery. It is a trial of the full version, but at least it is a step in the GNU direction from their previous offering.
The Hackaday team has been talking off and on with TI about the hardware. We’re happy to say that they’ve been listening to the Internet community about their likes and dislikes; following various online groups that have sprouted up to talk about Evalbot projects. It sounds like they’re thinking about hosting a contest using the hardware. So maybe you want to get your hands on one so that you can familiarize yourself and hit the ground running if/when that contest starts. You’re in luck, we can help save you a few bucks.
The
first time that Texas Instruments tried out a $125-off coupon code
the deal got away from them. It had been meant for attendees of the ESC Boston conference. They honored the deals that went through before the proverbial run-on-the-bank got shut down. This time around they’re using serialized deal codes to limit the number of give-aways. We’ve got 200 of them just waiting for our loyal readers to use. One code will let you purchase one Evalbot for just $25 (instead of $150).
Please take a moment to decide if you actually want (and will use) one of these robots, and decide if you are willing to shell out the $25 to order it. You see, we don’t want this deal going to waste.
If you decide this is for you, send an email requesting a code to:
We’re all out!
We’ll dish out the deal on a first-emailed-first-served basis. We will update this post when all 200 have been claimed.
We will not tolerate anyone gaming the system and so we reserve the right to disqualify any email submission for any reason in an attempt to maintain some semblance of fairness. Also… if you’re planning to pick this up just to resell it for cash you’re a loser.
[update: Those who emailed us requesting a code should begin receiving replies this evening or tomorrow.]
[Update 2:
here is the specific bot you should be trying to buy
. ]
| 109
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374096",
"author": "biozz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:16:16",
"content": "i have the evalbot thanks to your first cuponhttp://fc08.deviantart.net/fs71/i/2011/065/d/6/owned_by_biozz-d3b2jtd.jpgit was easy to set up and get to work but it has no examples for the SD card or Ethernet libraries and im trying to learn them",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374101",
"author": "Ryan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:26:26",
"content": "I got mine the first time around so I won’t send an email. It arrived shortly before I moved and I haven’t had time to dig it out of the boxes yet. Hopefully I’ll have some free time this summer when I get my workbench built to play with it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374102",
"author": "Robot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:26:59",
"content": "This is exciting! Thank you HaD (and TI).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374103",
"author": "ds2ktj",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:27:11",
"content": "I hope I get it. I’ve been looking into getting into a small robotics platform for a while. E-mail sent…time will tell.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374105",
"author": "Ezra",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:30:40",
"content": "Sent my email in, still waiting for a code, this will be a fun thing to teach my son who likes robotics.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374107",
"author": "Brad",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:31:56",
"content": "I’d like to give one of these things a look. Sent a coupon request as soon as I read the article.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374109",
"author": "fungus",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:33:18",
"content": "i missed out last time, but hopefully i get a code today… that’s great you got these codes — it will be my first venture into robotics. appreciate it",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374111",
"author": "spectrem12",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:37:26",
"content": "Just sent an email. Hope its not too late.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374114",
"author": "mekou1",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:40:29",
"content": "I pray to have one. Very exited to try running uclinux on this famous board",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374115",
"author": "Lucio",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:40:41",
"content": "I’m really curious if I can get it sent to Italy, I’ve mailed hackaday and now I’m waiting for a response :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374117",
"author": "rusty",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:42:15",
"content": "wish I had the cash…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374121",
"author": "max",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:46:01",
"content": "Really hope their shipping to germanywaiting for an answer. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374124",
"author": "DarkAurora",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:48:20",
"content": "Dangit, I missed my chance by like a minute. Oh well, I hope the people here get some good use out of their bots!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374125",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:52:15",
"content": "Wow that was quick, Its great to see companies reaching out. Can’t wait to see the project explosion that should follow.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374136",
"author": "Kruug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:09:52",
"content": "My code covered the entire $150…anyone confirm?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374141",
"author": "acidx",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:15:45",
"content": "@Kruug: Same here; even S&H was included.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374144",
"author": "CutterJeff",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:18:02",
"content": "Just got coupon and placed order.Thank you, Hackaday. If I were going to have more children, I’d name one after you. Well, maybe not, because that’d be extra cruel to the child when they hit third grade, but you know how it is.Chose the IAR version, the forums say it’s easier to get running and I’ve messed with IAR some playing with the Launchpad.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374146",
"author": "CutterJeff",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:18:36",
"content": "Confirm, Kruug.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374147",
"author": "ecko",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:18:38",
"content": "I saw this in between clases and just had a chance to look at it and you are out of codes. I think/thought it would be a good starting platform for my college computer engineering club to get into robotics. is there a way to be informed if any more codes become available?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374149",
"author": "fungus",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:22:07",
"content": "what is the difference between the versions?EKK, EKI, EKC, EKT, EKS…any insight would be helpful.. thanks",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374155",
"author": "fungus",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:29:23",
"content": "nevermind… got it…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374156",
"author": "MuNk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:29:43",
"content": "such a great deal…… and really wanted to get one :( oh well here is hoping this happens again at some point ^_^",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374164",
"author": "z",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:33:42",
"content": "If i was to offer to sell the one I had gotten on the first run for say… $75… would that be kosher? or would i be a douchebag?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374167",
"author": "CutterJeff",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:34:03",
"content": "ecko : suggestion : drop TI a line and ask about a sample for your club. I joined “my.TI” a long while back, and if you’re not greedy, they’ll send sample chips. It being a club, you might be able convince them to do a tax deductable donation. Or, shucks, at $150 list price, a club of 10 people could chip in easily enough.Fungus: it looks like the difference is the software in the package.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374170",
"author": "CH",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:35:56",
"content": "If you’re planning to then . Nice argument you got going there. Also, if you’re planning to us an Arduino to blink an LED, and post it on HaD, then you’re a cock-gremlin.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374172",
"author": "CH",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:37:32",
"content": "last post at my tags. It should read:If you’re planning to TAG something we don’t want you to do /TAG then TAG insult /TAG.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374174",
"author": "ecko",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:40:00",
"content": "@CutterJeff Thanks I will try that, we have 5 now and I think with projects like robotics more will want to join up and in",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374175",
"author": "z",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:41:15",
"content": "I would consider donating my evalbot if you can provide proof of this club and perhaps postage.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374177",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:41:40",
"content": "Awe, missed the boat on this one. All sold out. Looks really cool for $25. @z, I think you know the answer to that one already.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374178",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:43:37",
"content": "@Kruug, CutterJeff – Me too, $0.00 w/ free S/H!Can’t wait to start exploring with Evalbot. Thank you HaD!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374180",
"author": "z",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:44:51",
"content": "@Brett W, yeah.. I know.Which is why I am considering donating it to @ecko ‘s group.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374181",
"author": "Jake",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:46:23",
"content": "I would love a little evalbot, I had never seen these guys before, 150 bucks seems reasonable, but 25 bucks… can’t be beat.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374182",
"author": "ibedazzled",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:47:10",
"content": "confused about the versions too. can anyone explain?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374183",
"author": "ecko",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:47:48",
"content": "@z do you have a way I can contact you through your website to find what information you would need for your verification?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374187",
"author": "jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:52:02",
"content": "rats, I wanted to get one of these last time but didn’t get through when their site slowed to a crawl. oh well, perhaps there’ll be coupons again soon",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374189",
"author": "RasmusB",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:53:03",
"content": "@Kruug confirmed here as well! :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374190",
"author": "Luke",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:54:26",
"content": "I got a code (thanks HaD!) but when I attempt to apply it on checkout I get “The coupon code you’ve entered does not apply to any of the products in your basket.” I have one EKB-UCOS3-EVM in my basket. Anyone else getting this?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374206",
"author": "Adam",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:17:00",
"content": "Ordered mine! Sweet!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374207",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:17:41",
"content": "That was well played guys.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374208",
"author": "Adam",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:18:45",
"content": "@Luke: I had the same problem. Apparently the older P/N that comes preloaded with the Micrium OS is not covered by this coupon.You want one of the other versions, such as P/N: EKI-EVALBOT which is the IAR version. It let me order that one. Link:https://estore.ti.com/Search.aspx?&detail=1&k=EKI-EVALBOT",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374210",
"author": "bogdanm",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:25:41",
"content": "I sure hope I got one :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374212",
"author": "Chuckie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:29:30",
"content": "It sure would have been nice to get one of these… if anyone wants to sell theirs for $30 plus shipping, lemme know.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374215",
"author": "spectrem12",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:34:38",
"content": "When did you guys run out?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374216",
"author": "Luke",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:36:25",
"content": "@Adam Thanks! That link worked perfectly. Cheers to HaD and TI for this cool promo.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374225",
"author": "Robotguy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:44:28",
"content": "I got mine through a training seminar put on by Avnet, Micrium and TI. We were lucky enough to have Mike Phipps from Micrium there, so it was very informative.It looks like they have more seminars available in Phoenix, Dayton, Huntsville, Dallas and Cleveland. I’m not sure what you have to do to be a “qualified customer”, but if you buy through Avnet, definitely check it out.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374249",
"author": "Scott Smith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:51:22",
"content": "I got a code but I was unable to apply the code to an evalbot. “The coupon code you’ve entered does not apply to any of the products in your basket.” I have P/N EKB-UCOS3-EVM in my cart. There is another that comes with a book but based on your $25 cost (150-125), I did it right. Not sure if I have to wait or anything, but I thought I’d mention it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374255",
"author": "Andrew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:53:46",
"content": "Please more “GNU direction” puns",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374256",
"author": "Gabe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:54:17",
"content": "Can anyone else not get this to work? I got a code but no dice on TI’s website…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374259",
"author": "Trey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:56:29",
"content": "Thanks HaD! I was originally confused when I received the message, “The coupon code you’ve entered does not apply to any of the products in your basket,” but (thanks to Adam) successfully ordered the IAR version.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374260",
"author": "Scott Smith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:58:09",
"content": "Forget my comment above, I didn’t read all 40-something posts initially. I will note that mine came out free, not for $25.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "374262",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T20:01:21",
"content": "@all who have the wrong product,I’ve added a link to the correct one.",
"parent_id": "374260",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
}
] | 1,760,377,225.717885
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/05/retake-on-a-wii-remote-controlled-balancing-robot/
|
Retake On A Wii Remote Controlled Balancing Robot
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"Nintendo Wii Hacks",
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"balancing",
"pololu",
"remote",
"segway",
"segwii",
"sparkfun",
"wii"
] |
[Tijmen Verhulsdonck] built
his own version of a Wii remote-controlled balancing robot
. He drew his inspiration from
the SegWii
, which was built by [Ara Kourchians].
The body is built using one of our preferred fabrication methods; threaded rod makes up a rail system, with three sheets of hard board serving as a mounting structure for the motors, electronics, and battery. This does away with the 9V batteries used on the original SegWii, opting for a very powerful lithium battery perched on the highest part of the assembly. It uses an Arduino as the main microcontroller. That detects roll, pitch, and tilt of the body by reading data from a Sparkfun IMU 5 board (we’re pretty sure it’s
this one
). Check out the videos after the break. The first demonstrates the robot balancing on its own, then a Wii remote is connected via Bluetooth and [Tijmen] drives it around the room by tilting the controller. The second video covers the components that went into the build.
This is impressive work for a 17-year-old. [Tijmen] lists his material cost at $800 but since he’s Dutch this might not be a USD currency.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNjMjCtNWs0&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mciuuKh-RyA&w=470]
| 4
| 3
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374076",
"author": "MattQ",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T16:36:52",
"content": "Dutch vampire builds upright robot. This is actually pretty cool. I’m curious as to how much weight it can carry. Terrific design, thumbs up.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374201",
"author": "DarkFader",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:06:55",
"content": "I saw this project on dutch TV even. You’re famous now!but hmm..“Operating system: Arduino”“Programming language: Arduino”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374365",
"author": "Edward",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T23:12:18",
"content": "I’d like to see someone build one using a WiiMote as the sensor. THAT would be a challenge.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "466736",
"author": "CaseyJones",
"timestamp": "2011-09-28T20:31:44",
"content": "The wii mote contains all the sensors you would need to provide the necessary feedback for the inverted pendulum system. Since I believe all that data is all being fed out via the bluetooth connection I don’t think it would be terribly difficult to access it. Then it would just be a matter of designing the controller to process the error signals. It would certainly be do-able.",
"parent_id": "374365",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
}
] | 1,760,377,225.763843
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/05/cocktail-cabinet-to-be-proud-of/
|
Cocktail Cabinet To Be Proud Of
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"home entertainment hacks"
] |
[
"cocktail cabinet",
"mame",
"sketchup"
] |
At a glance you might think it’s the real thing, but if you look closer you’ll see that The Distraction Contraption is an extremely well-executed cocktail cabinet recreation that hosts a MAME setup. [Sam Freeman] took pictures of the entire build process and
has posted them, along with captions, as a Flickr collection
.
The project started after some inspiration from
this diminutive cocktail cabinet
. He wanted his own version that was closer in scale to the coin-op versions that would have been found in bars a few decades ago. He designed the case to fit a 17″ LCD screen using Google Sketchup. From there, he cut out the parts and routed the edges. The controls feature buttons and joysticks, as you’d expect, but that red cap on the end works as a spinner. He tried out a few different ideas for this auxiliary control. He found that using LEGO gears to map the spinner’s motion to the axle of a mouse worked best. To give the plastic knob a better feel he loaded it with pennies to increase the mass, bringing momentum into play. The final look was achieved using wood-grain contact paper, and custom printed skins.
| 17
| 17
|
[
{
"comment_id": "374018",
"author": "TopHat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T15:05:43",
"content": "Those are some pretty interesting build techniques. Awesome cabinet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374020",
"author": "Wizzard",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T15:06:57",
"content": "Absolutely Wonderful!! but I hope he used glass on the top of it. I’m going to go view it all now :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374047",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T15:56:08",
"content": "Ok haters, on your mark… get set… HATE!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374083",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T16:42:56",
"content": "Nice build. I had an old mouse that I was thinking about using as a spinner, maybe this will give me some ideas about how to do it.@Mike – Sorry I’m not hating on it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374093",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:06:32",
"content": "LOVE IT! Absolutely beautiful creation there!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374113",
"author": "AgedCheddar",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:39:11",
"content": "This ROCKS! I need to get off my rump and build a couple of these for my kids to play on. Then I could have the Xbox 360 to myself more often. I mean, I’m pretty sure I bought a 360, I just haven’t been able to use it much.Nicely executed build. I have most or all of the same resources at my disposal so no excuses.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374120",
"author": "sam seide",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T17:45:55",
"content": "Very cool! It’s awesome to see my work inspire other builds! Such a beautiful cabinet!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374193",
"author": "Brian.Holiday",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T18:59:32",
"content": "And to think, last night I found 3 DVD’s worth of MAME ROMs in my old software folder. Is it a sign? :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374209",
"author": "Scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:21:07",
"content": "No Arduino? :-)Where does one actually get the quarter feeder switches? Salvage?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374218",
"author": "joe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:39:23",
"content": "Absolutely wonderful build – one of the best I have ever seen! Incredible detail to match his inspiration. No hater here!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374250",
"author": "twistedsymphony",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T19:52:18",
"content": "@scott…. ebay you can buy just about anything on that site including arcade machine parts. or if you’re Scrooge McDuck you can buy them direct from Happ Controls",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374267",
"author": "Ike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T20:18:40",
"content": "@Mike … don’t worry, they’ll come. Maybe you should start the ball rolling with some fakery?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374344",
"author": "CG",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T22:21:37",
"content": "This is beautiful.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374477",
"author": "Sodor",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T03:20:14",
"content": "OOOOOOooowwww this is cute",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374628",
"author": "Sam Freeman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T09:46:04",
"content": "Thanks for the warm feedback! I would love to use glass on top, but I was working with a pretty limited budget. Still, I had a great time building it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374927",
"author": "Casey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T20:17:54",
"content": "I think out of the few things I donated to this project, one of the peanut butter lids is my favorite, because I got to eat a bunch of peanut butter….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375104",
"author": "Sam Freeman",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T02:37:21",
"content": "Yeah, good thing you had a taste for the creamy kind.Also, @JC, this might help you out:http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Arcade-Spinners-From-Old-Ball-Mice/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,225.815227
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/03/hacking-game-port-peripherals-to-work-with-modern-pcs/
|
Hacking Game Port Peripherals To Work With Modern PCs
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"Peripherals Hacks"
] |
[
"analog",
"game port",
"pc",
"pc gaming",
"wheel"
] |
[Atiti] has a bad habit of hanging on to old things. Some people call this sort of behavior “hoarding”, but around here we understand his affliction. It turns out that in his collection of old computer peripherals, he located a Thrustmaster Formula 1 racing wheel he used back in the day. Analog racing wheels can cost a pretty penny nowadays, depending on what you buy, so he decided to see if he could
hack this outdated controller to work with his new PC
.
You see, the problem with this wheel is that it utilized a “game port” connecter to interface with the computer. If you don’t remember the game port, go dig up an old PCI sound card and take a look on the back. That 15-pin connector? That’s a game port. Microsoft discontinued support for the game port once Vista was released, so [Atti] had to figure out how in the world he would get it to work on his new PC.
His solution was an Arduino, which is used to read the analog signals output by the wheel. Those signals are processed and sent to a parallel port joystick emulator, enabling him to use the wheel with any game supporting a standard joystick.
Obviously he could have just gone out to the store and bought a USB wheel, but where’s the fun in that?
Stay tuned for a video demo of his refreshed wheel in action.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9oggKK5w5Y&w=470]
| 25
| 22
|
[
{
"comment_id": "372773",
"author": "ftorama",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T13:30:38",
"content": "Hey I had a project like this in a part of my head….but I would have used a Teensyduino or Teensy++ to get the HID class directly",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "372785",
"author": "Moggie100",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T14:21:10",
"content": "Yeah, the parallel port part seemed a tad round-about to me as well.",
"parent_id": "372773",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "372786",
"author": "nitori",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T14:26:17",
"content": "I’ve owned a device that does this for around 4 years now to salvage my old game pad.http://sewelldirect.com/USB-to-Gameport-Adapter-for-Joysticks-Controllers-and-Gamepads.asp",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6409839",
"author": "Tibicenas",
"timestamp": "2021-12-26T22:00:12",
"content": "Broken Link",
"parent_id": "372786",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "372793",
"author": "Omni5cience",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T14:54:52",
"content": "Bah, I this is nothing. I remember hacking new USB joysticks to use Gameport. (For my FIRST Robotics team.)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372804",
"author": "Johannes",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:13:55",
"content": "I remember seeing a proper gamepad USB conversion with no arduinos used :)This one used a avr with the USB library and custom HID programming.. Now THATS a hack :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372809",
"author": "blue_carbuncle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:18:37",
"content": "Good on the builder for solving the problem but I am a bit on nitori’s side on this one. Also could this not be solved by a virtual machine maybe that does support MPU401? I wouldn’t be a huge fan of using vista to run as a gaming rig without some tweaking. But again, good on our “hoarder” friend :) and keeping things working and useful beyond their scoped lifetime :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372812",
"author": "Loki",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:25:45",
"content": "IIRC (and it has been a while), the ‘game port’ on the back of a soundcard was actually a MIDI I/O which had been (generally) repurposed for controllers – a CC for pitch, one for yaw, etc, with 128 discrete values in each one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "372880",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T17:31:15",
"content": "That’s right, but joysticks were simpler than even that, MIDI is digital but most of the gaming periphs didn’t utilise the MIDI control but had the potentiometers and buttons mapped directly to special pins",
"parent_id": "372812",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "372839",
"author": "adam outler",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:49:13",
"content": "Why do people block videos on mobile devices?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372847",
"author": "BadWolf",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T16:23:11",
"content": "I’m actually happy I suggested that the UNO get a HID function and that they decided to implement it. That’s exactly why I asked them. Good job!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372850",
"author": "atiti",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T16:38:42",
"content": "Hehe yea, I could have reflashed the avr on the Uno to do HID, but since I needed to use the Arduino in another project, I didn’t want to modify it. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372882",
"author": "Jaspel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T17:32:47",
"content": "This is a great project for HAD.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372886",
"author": "Elias",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T17:41:23",
"content": "Nice, you could also program additional features like throttle blip at down changes etc :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373120",
"author": "LordNothing",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T00:54:00",
"content": "i hope hes not down sampling his 10-bit adc readings to 8 bit. a common method for doing this kinda thing tends to emulate a specific ppjoy interface module by formatting a serial packet in just the right way and doing no actual programming at the pc end.to get around this issue i simply created my own packet format and i wrote a serial -> ppjoy interface program to send the values through at a full 10 bit resolution.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373132",
"author": "Amos",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T01:29:03",
"content": "Good for [Atiti] for keeping something useful out of a landfill. It’s probably better quality than most wheels on the market now, to boot.@blue_carbuncle: MPU401 is a MIDI interface standard and has nothing to do with joysticks (other than the use of the joystick connector to carry MIDI signals on many sound cards).@Loki: Actually, it’s the other way around: Creative Labs re-purposed some duplicate power supply pins on their Sound Blaster’s on-board joystick port to carry MIDI data (to save a few cents per unit on MIDI connectors and optoisolators; which they sold as an adapter cable to those who wanted MIDI).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373260",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T05:50:44",
"content": "if i go look in my garage, i’ll find my old steering wheel or giant joystick that came with a gameport to usb adapter back in 2001. the one in the link, at 14.95- way overpriced. i would rather buy a pci to usb card and blow it up attempting to guess which wire to put where from usb to gameport.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373293",
"author": "anti-fanboi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T07:49:23",
"content": "@Amos: While it’s a common sentiment, sending all Arduinos to landfill is a bit harsh ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373413",
"author": "blue_carbuncle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T12:59:56",
"content": "@amos sorry. I used the wrong nomenclature for brevity’s sake. I’m an audio guy. Feel free to reply to any of the other part of the post tho.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373505",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T15:33:26",
"content": "“don’t remember [what the game/midi port is]” … “old” … “pci sound card”You goddamn kids. Stay off my lawn this time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374779",
"author": "Coda",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T15:28:42",
"content": "Using an Arduino for this is overkill. There are dozens of cheap analogue->usb HID devices on the market, they are plug and play, and show up as HID devices in windows. No need for programming the device yourself, and no need for 3rd party software to interface it. Of course if this was just an exercise in DIY, then it’s all good.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "384627",
"author": "Scott V.",
"timestamp": "2011-04-22T16:28:14",
"content": "The real thing I’m curious about is if anyone has tried to do this kind of hacking on some of the last rounds of game port devices, stuff like the Sidewinder Game Pad that ran through a game port but was “digital” in nature, meaning it didn’t work with these typical USB to Game Port converters.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "385731",
"author": "Amr B",
"timestamp": "2011-04-25T10:08:09",
"content": "I did a similar thing a couple of years ago, but I used a USB PIC and programmed it as a HID device, so I had full control over the USB descriptor and the configuration of the joystick. With that you could easily replicate the functionality of the Sidewinder and similar devices.http://helmpcb.com/electronics/usb-joystick",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "387620",
"author": "darksakul",
"timestamp": "2011-04-28T22:20:48",
"content": "@ Scott V. about the Sidewinder…If you purchase a cheap USB game pad (or a USB PIC), you could wire the pins from the sidewinder directly to the corresponding buttons on the USB game pad.I did something similar when I wired up a Mad Catz Xbox 360 game pad to take input from a old NeoGeo game pad, same concept as the Sidewinder just the pin out is different. Why an Xbox 360 pad, the client wanted to use a NeoGeo pad on the 360.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2826747",
"author": "Kabal",
"timestamp": "2015-12-07T00:43:27",
"content": "Im sorry to reply to a very old article, but @darksakul are you the same that frequents tech talk from SRK? I want to do just what you are saying, but I have a flight stick that obviously has 2 axis, so it works with potentiometers, do you think that if I just wire these to the corresponding points of a Dualshock 1 for example, it will work?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.028108
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/02/macro-lens-and-image-stacking/
|
Macro Lens And Image Stacking
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"digital cameras hacks"
] |
[
"bellows",
"helicon focus",
"macro",
"nikon",
"zeiss"
] |
[Samuel Sargent] built his own lens for making stacked macro images.This project, which was completed as part of his senior thesis, utilizes a Zeiss enlarger lens. The aperture ring was broken, making it difficult to tell how much light was being let into the camera. Instead of scrapping the whole thing he turned it around, making it a macro lens when combined with a few other parts. He’s used a Nikon PB-5 belows, a PK-13 extension tube, and a body cap to provide a way to mount the lens to his camera. A hole was added to the body cap using his Dremel, and a liberal dose of epoxy putty seals all of the gaps.
After the break you can see a couple of photos that [Samuel] made of bismuth. He estimates the sharpest focal length by taking a few test shots. Next he captures a series of images, moving the bellows slightly between each shot. Finally, this set is combined using
Helicon Focus
image stacking software. Maybe for his graduate thesis he can build
a mechanized platform to move the subject automatically
.
| 8
| 8
|
[
{
"comment_id": "372516",
"author": "Eric",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T22:19:35",
"content": "http://bigwww.epfl.ch/demo/edf/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372571",
"author": "d",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T01:13:35",
"content": "Where’s the link to the original work?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372594",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T03:20:39",
"content": "Exactly, there are various free and open source programs that do stacking, I don’t know why hackaday actually linked to helicon unless this whole thing is an ad, they did not link to nikon after all.Even gimp has stacking, although it’s relatively crude to do it with gimp.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372596",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T03:23:14",
"content": "Addendum: wikipedia has a nice article on it with a list of many software packages:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372646",
"author": "Rioexxo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T07:51:22",
"content": "Seriously.A guy hacks a camera lens and instead of props you give everyone grief,,,unless this whole thing is an ad, they did not link to nikon after all.You didn’t link either… here, I’ll link….http://www.nikon.com/Let’s try to be more supportive of our brothers from now on.!regards, Rioexxo ®",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372768",
"author": "Samuel Sargent",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T13:19:43",
"content": "I used Helicon after looking at many of the different pieces of software that were suggested- from the wikipedia page actually.I found that it’s entry ease of use made it much more viable for me. I’m certainly not suggesting that everyone go out and by helicon, and I certainly would have done the work myself in photoshop had I wanted to spend hours and hours aligning each slice, but instead opted to spend about 20 minutes stacking the images with some minor tweaks to Helicon’s settings.Workflow is very important, I simply went with what seemed the fastest and most hassle free way to stack my images. If there’s a faster more more effective way than Helicon, I’d love to learn about it. Based off my experiences with Gimp, I can safely say that’s not going to be a workable solution for me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372769",
"author": "hans",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T13:23:15",
"content": "Is there a difference between focus stacking and z-stacking? I assume not, but you never know.. When Nasa uses this technique for the microscopic imager on the MER landers, they call it z-stacking.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372857",
"author": "jaded",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T16:52:26",
"content": "@hans,Just guessing, but perhaps it’s called Z-stacking when it’s a series of images made by using a fixed focus lens and moving the subject closer to or farther from it; and they call it focus stacking when they take a series of images while refocusing the lens instead of moving the subject.Although after having googled a while, it looks like the words are pretty interchangeable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.160841
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/02/3d-printed-gun-fires-nerf-darts/
|
3D Printed Gun Fires Nerf Darts
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Toy Hacks"
] |
[
"3d printer",
"dart",
"gun",
"nerf"
] |
[Vik Olliver] adds a bit more power to what has traditionally been a store-bought toy by
designing this printable dart gun
. His design prints the follower in the track where it belongs, which means it’s not going to come loose unless the material itself fails. After printing you’ll need to clean up that track just a bit, and ream out the pivot holes for the trigger parts. Two pieces of filament are used as the axles for pivot points and can be melted in place after assembly. A third length of filament acts as a spring, making this a completely plastic gun. Well, not completely; a couple of strong rubber bands deliver the stored energy which sends the Nerf dart on its way. The design is parametric so you can adjust it for the dart dimensions of your choosing before printing begins.
If you still haven’t managed to boot-strap your own 3D printer don’t fret. You can always
give this Nerf dart sniper rifle a try
.
| 24
| 24
|
[
{
"comment_id": "372420",
"author": "Bob D",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T17:51:54",
"content": "While printing the follower in the track is neat it’s a pain on extruderbots since it’s nearly impossible to print embedded parts that are actually separate with any quality. The same goes for a smooth track. Call me old fashioned but I would have printed the top and bottom separately and screwed them together. Yes, it wouldn’t be 100% printed any more, but it would be much higher quality. (Of course I probably would have use metal pins and springs too rather than filament which is pretty brittle. And since it’s posted on Thingiverse I may do just that!)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372439",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T18:46:26",
"content": "At first glance, this reminds me of the Bones Gun in the movie Existenz:http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j2lahJEjoEU/TEvvnyO0YUI/AAAAAAAAAuw/AZU97jw8k8o/s1600/existenz+gun.jpg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372440",
"author": "Colecago",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T18:46:47",
"content": "Pretty awesome",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372457",
"author": "Blastar",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T19:32:56",
"content": "@Brett W.Sorry but that’s gross and makes me sick.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372474",
"author": "Shaddack",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T20:04:39",
"content": "@Brett W.Cuuuuuute! :)Things will get really interesting once it will be possible to 3d-print actual firearms on homemade rigs. Maybe some sort of laser sintering could be achievable? Or using plasma or electric arc/spark for fusing the material together?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372501",
"author": "Vik Olliver",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T21:32:43",
"content": "This gun is actually designed to print out on crude 3D printers. There is plenty of wriggle-room around the parts. I’ve spent a while designing RepRap components so that they print out usably on crap printers, and I’ve designed the gun on the same principles.Due to the short length of filament used in the pivots, they are adequately strong.It is possible to make a subsonic, printable zip-gun that will last one shot and has no metallic components though boring the barrel smooth and/or lining it would lessen the extreme danger. I leave the proof to the diligent student :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372535",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T23:15:40",
"content": "It might be possible to build a zip gun with a reprap, but it’s also possible to build one out of the contents of your average dumpster. They’re really not complicated.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372548",
"author": "Lemonmaster0",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T23:57:11",
"content": "No offense, but i’m not putting real ammunition in something that comes out of a 3d printer and firing it with my hand. This, however, is very cool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372568",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T01:03:01",
"content": "Ultimately a CNC is much more useful and better to have than a 3D printer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372589",
"author": "knuckles904",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T03:07:30",
"content": "Hey Vik, put up a video!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372612",
"author": "Vik Olliver",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T04:50:56",
"content": "@Knuckles, I’ve done an assembly video –http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auKLBw5P9bQ",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372628",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T06:24:56",
"content": "Vic, at the end of the video, do you say to ‘put your nerf gun in there’? Instead of dart? Or are my ears fooling me?Very cool btw :) Although melting in the filament at the end gives me doubts about how long it will last.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372695",
"author": "Vik Olliver",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T09:40:06",
"content": "I gave a couple to the boys next door to test for the afternoon. They raided my parts bin and resurrected a 3rd that I had discarded earlier, so I let them keep it. The guns seem to be working so far and were returned intact give or take a few old rubber bands. Though I did replace the clear PLA spring with a Dark Green PLA spring because my coloured PLA filament is springier than the clear stuff.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372710",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T10:39:24",
"content": "@Whatnot: Hah! Good one. A cnc is more useful for production but in general usefulness there’s no competition. A 3d printer will always be more useful",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372783",
"author": "barry99705",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T14:14:19",
"content": "Neat, it’s like that all plastic gun John Malcovich used to try to kill the president.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372797",
"author": "ho0d0o",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:03:44",
"content": "So cool! One of the coolest 3D printed things I’ve seen posted here!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372911",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T18:16:02",
"content": "@Hackius I know what I’d pick, but I’d tell them to give the leftover to you :)Now to find out who ‘they’ are and why they never call.Metal is just much sturdier and cheaper I feel and so in the end when all is said and done better in practice.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372971",
"author": "Vik Olliver",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T20:23:08",
"content": "Maybe I should cast one then? 3D printer output can be lost core cast if printed in clear PLA.http://diamondage.co.nz/pla.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373113",
"author": "Volfram",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T00:26:34",
"content": "@Whatnot: a 3D printer seems to me easier and cheaper to cobble together than a CNC machine. Also, metal is harder to work with than plastic. Harder to work with very much != cheaper.Flamebait.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373544",
"author": "macona",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T17:03:55",
"content": "@HackiusCNC is not just for production, this is a misconception. 99% of the stuff I do on a CNC mills is one-off parts.3D printers are nice for non-structural complex shapes.@Whatnot3D is cheaper but not necessarily any more difficult than a CNC mill or router.Metal is very easy to work with. And I work with everything from aluminum to titanium.Here is milling out a titanium back for a pendant. Try that with a 3d printer!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g216OieL3fY",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373557",
"author": "IJ Dee-Vo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T17:27:00",
"content": "@Hackius=depends on the use. some uses will fnd a cnc far more usefulthis is too good",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373726",
"author": "IJ Dee-Vo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T23:41:11",
"content": "saying one is more useful then the other is a bit like saying a hammer is more useful then a screw driver. It depends on the job.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "536465",
"author": "Gorgon Blue",
"timestamp": "2011-12-15T15:24:48",
"content": "Anybody make a computer controlled Dremel tool?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "714399",
"author": "Mark",
"timestamp": "2012-07-26T16:57:42",
"content": "Arguing that either a 3d printer or a CNC mill is more useful than the other is like arguing that a shovel is more useful than a wrench.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.218642
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/02/robotic-berimbau-plays-itself/
|
Robotic Berimbau Plays Itself
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Musical Hacks",
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"berimbau",
"capoeira",
"music",
"robot"
] |
If you have ever seen capoeira, you have undoubtedly heard the music of a berimbau. If you are not familiar, Capoeira is a Brazilian art form that melds martial arts, acrobatics, and music. This graceful fighting form is often accompanied by the sounds of a berimbau, a single-stringed musical instrument comprised of a gourd, a wooden bow, and a steel string.
[Ivan Monsão] and [Paulo Libonati] have constructed what is considered to be
the first robotic berimbau in existence
, capable of playing music without any human interaction. The robot strikes the berimbau’s metal string, mechanically muting the gourd when appropriate, and even shakes the caxixi (a rattle) in time with the music.
The builder claims that the berimbau learns songs by “listening” and repeating rather than having songs pre-programmed into the system. We can’t see any evidence of that functionality from the video, though we’d love to see the learning process in action.
While we try to find our VHS copy of “Only the Strong”, be sure to take a look at the following video of the berimbau playing itself.
[Thanks, Camilo]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24GUKRheXDc&w=470]
| 10
| 8
|
[
{
"comment_id": "372408",
"author": "Just L. Pauls",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T17:05:51",
"content": "Love it !!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372413",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T17:16:46",
"content": "Wow, I really like the dynamic range of notes. Two notes gives you so much more flexibility with composing music.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "372497",
"author": "Damion",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T21:24:30",
"content": "There’s actually 3 notes!",
"parent_id": "372413",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "372419",
"author": "zing",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T17:47:34",
"content": "Building one of these has been perpetually 3rd on my list, as I rather like the sound of berimbau and it doesn’t have many degrees of motion.The caxixí in the video was a bit overpowering, though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372521",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T22:38:27",
"content": "So that’s considered “music” these days eh?Bach must be spinning in his tomb.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "372884",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T17:36:20",
"content": "You should look up videos containing “rap”. It’s even less musical!",
"parent_id": "372521",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "372564",
"author": "psykho",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T00:41:24",
"content": "Are u moron’ vonskippy’? is a brazilian capoeira music, for a capoeira lUTA.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLiv37TNZMc&",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372601",
"author": "Craig",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T04:01:44",
"content": "Very cool! For anybody who is not familiar with the berimbau, you might get a better idea of what it can do musically from this video of Mestre Suassuna:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jd7TWgYmgak",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373581",
"author": "octel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:15:00",
"content": "Erik Johnson and vonskippy: a fantastic duo of idiots, cut from the same cloth",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373586",
"author": "UmmmNO",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:19:23",
"content": "I am surprised so many people don’t get this. 10 seconds spent on a Google search would show you what a berimbau is supposed to sound like.It doesn’t sound like Bach, moron – nor is it meant to sound like any westernized music you are used to. It’s a tribal african/brazilian fusion. Not everything needs to sound like the crap the record labels force down your throats.Awesome stuff!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.269693
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/02/manage-your-rechargeables-at-a-glance/
|
Manage Your Rechargeables At A Glance
|
Kevin Dady
|
[
"hardware"
] |
[
"rechargeable"
] |
If you enjoy photography, radio controlled vehicles, or any other activity that requires you to keep multiple sets of rechargeable batteries on hand you know how much of a pain it can be if you get a dead battery mixed in with your charged batteries. This easy approach to
managing your batteries while on location
does not require fancy electronics, meters or anything else that might pop into mind, but rather simple stickers and storage.
The first set of labels get stuck on the battery, offering a green and red color code along with a number so its easy to keep track of which group of batteries go where and to catalog date / life. The second set of labels gets attached to your storage compartment, when a battery is charged, place it in the box so the positive end is facing the green on the storage label, and when its dead just flip it around.
While this mainly focuses on AA batteries (and even shows you how to make a simple but effective holder out of some elastic band and staples) this idea can be used with just about any type of battery for a quick glance to see where you stand on juice.
| 17
| 17
|
[
{
"comment_id": "372347",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T14:29:49",
"content": "Similar approach to how you manage magazines to keep track of which are full and which are empty/low. You simply place them in the holster with the bottom facing up or down. At least that’s how we were drilled to do it here in Sweden, I’m sure it’s the same all over.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372352",
"author": "Standard Mischief",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T14:52:44",
"content": "Don’t give the naysayers any ground. Here be some great tricks.My tip would be to mark the battery pairs somehow. For my early (b/w) Palm PDA, I’d run NiMH batteries. One pair would always be in the trickle charger and one pair in the PDA. I’d mark the pairs with a paint pen to make sure that the two stayed matched. Because I only had two sets, things were easy to keep track of. I’d likely have to develop something like this if the NiMH didn’t already last over a week per set.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372367",
"author": "Michael",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T15:28:33",
"content": "My camera uses 4 Nimh AA’s. I have 3 sets of batteries. I keep every set grouped with a rubber band. If they are all put in the same direction in the rubber band, the set is charged. That way it’s quite easy to keep things organised, as long as you don’t mix the sets while changing batteries.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372371",
"author": "BadWolf",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T15:37:45",
"content": "@sneakypooIt’s pretty much the same in Canada too.Tactical training ftw.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372376",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T15:46:21",
"content": "I think the holder is brilliant, but the full empty markers are kind of useless to me. If I had the mind to remember which ones were charged then I wouldnt need to remember to set the labels.Simple is always the best answer…. Always put them into one of these nice holders when you take them from a charger. When you remove them toss them into the backpack pocket , or a zip lock bag. Self maintaining organization.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372386",
"author": "mark",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T16:08:27",
"content": "Like it, simple and effective :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372392",
"author": "cyrus",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T16:21:26",
"content": "@Standard Mischief, @Michael, or anyone who can explain the fundamentals of rechargeable batteries:What’s the advantage of always using the same batteries together? Does it have something to do with the charge/discharge cycle “memory” that rechargeables are known for?I’ve about a dozen general purpose NiMH AAs used in everything from my wireless mouse, to remote controls, to flashlights. Since these devices drain the batteries very differently, is it better to rotate the cells through the devices regularly, mix/match as they discharge, or keep the same cells in the same device?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372425",
"author": "Daid",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T17:57:43",
"content": "I only have devices that require 2 AAs. So I simply store them in 2 state: both polarities at the same side for charged. Both in different directions for discharged. Why like this? Well, they come out of devices in different directions, and they come out of the charger in the same direction. Simple, easy effective.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372462",
"author": "Devin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T19:40:44",
"content": "@cyrusI’d imagine that it’s good to do this because rechargeable batteries lose capacity over time, so you’d want to keep the capacity matched in a pair that’s to be used together; otherwise one could run out before the other, possibly damaging both batteries.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372472",
"author": "Justin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T19:58:51",
"content": "I do this at home with a shot glass: Pointy-end up means charged, pointy-end down means spent! :]Simple and effective~",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372485",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T20:26:59",
"content": "I’ll drink to that…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372562",
"author": "Standard Mischief",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T00:33:21",
"content": "@cyrusDevin has pretty much got it. At the end of life for the “pack” one of the cells will drop to zero and refuse to accept a charge. The remainder are one their last leg. Chuck out the group of them.Picking jay random cell out of a box means some may see more wear that the others and you throw nothing away for fear of squandering useful life. It wouldn’t make sense to grab a “low self discharge” cell on it’s 12th cycle and a 5 year old cell on it’s 165th cycle and expect them to preform well together.You also want the cells in the group to reach the recharge point (usually 1.0 v for NiMH) at the same time. Otherwise the stronger cells can reverse the polarity of the weak cell and damage it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373266",
"author": "berslan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T06:27:54",
"content": "I use a box with multiple compartments for my batteries I use for the RC remotes and receivers. Some compartments are for fully charged batteries, one for half used ones and a big one for dead ones.Whenever I buy a set of battery, it is always in multiples of four, and even after one month from my last purchase, there is a more powerful set and I go for it. So the batteries group themselves without me needing to label them or so.Works fine!Works fine!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373431",
"author": "abobymouse",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T13:30:30",
"content": "red / green == not so useful for colorblind, eh?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373461",
"author": "Jakezilla",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T14:27:47",
"content": "I have all my batteries numbered and I keep track in a spreadsheet of their mAh so I can tell when one is going bad. I have been surprised at the number of single batteries out of a package of 4 or 8 that have started going south. /uber nerd",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374337",
"author": "Frank",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T22:02:08",
"content": "I use boxes for 4 batteries. each box gets a snippet of paper when it’s filled with freshbatteries.When i change batteries of the camera (4) the snippet is removed from the box.When i change batteries of the GPS (2) the snipped is first placed over the 2 fresh batteries, then taken out of the box when the other 2 batteries are used.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375506",
"author": "walt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-07T15:28:27",
"content": "pretty good effin idea! imma do this. i especially like the elastic webbing idea.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.369046
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/02/simple-dtmf-decoder-pulls-numbers-from-youtube-videos/
|
Simple DTMF Decoder Pulls Numbers From YouTube Videos
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"arduino",
"dtmf",
"pots",
"telephone"
] |
While many of us have banished land line telephones from our houses, there are still quite a few people who utilize POTS lines today. These analog phone systems use Dual Tone Multi Frequency (DTMF) signals in order to audibly represent all of the keys on a telephone keypad and place calls. [Brad] over at LucidScience decided that it would be useful to have a DTMF decoder on hand,
and got busy building one
.
His DTMF decoder box uses a CM8870 DTMF decoder chip, which you might assume is all you need to get the job done. This chip performs its duties very well, outputting a 4-bit binary code for each button press it registers, but that doesn’t do a whole lot of good without being able to represent those codes in a meaningful fashion. He first built a breadboard decoder circuit that would light 1 of 16 LEDs depending on the detected button press. This was well and good, but he decided that an Arduino-driven LCD display would work far better.
When he was finished, he had a compact decoder box with an LCD display, which accepts input from either an RJ-11 cable or an audio jack. He says that the audio jack is particularly useful for decoding tones from computer audio, such as YouTube clips. [Brad] praises the CM8870 chip, stating that it can pull phone numbers from pretty much any audio or phone signal you throw at it, regardless of quality. We think it would make a great basis for a telephone-based security system, if that was something that appealed to you.
Be sure to stick around to see his DTMF decoder circuit in action.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gIwB_pdb00&w=470]
| 28
| 28
|
[
{
"comment_id": "372298",
"author": "YT2095",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T12:40:42",
"content": "something like this would be useful in Ham radio too, for listening to the repeater access codes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372314",
"author": "BadWolf",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T13:26:08",
"content": "Domotic+This = WinYou pick up ur phone,dial **001 and your garage door opens up. nifty.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372320",
"author": "Kyle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T13:34:51",
"content": "THIS HAS BEEN DONE A THOUSAND TIMES OVER SINCE THE 1970’s. THERE ARE A THOUSAND OF THESE PROJECTS POSTED ON THE ‘NET.PLEASE, for the LOVE OF GOD, post something NEW for once. My God.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372324",
"author": "ejonesss",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T13:44:02",
"content": "if you are going to involve a Arduino then why not make it do the decoding from the start.i am sure they can run software or have to be programmed.so in theory software tone decoder could be written making the process only a single piece of hardware.also i think there are some parallel to serial decoder chips out there.one option may be a usb parallel converter used to add usb to a parallel printer or parallel to usb printer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372329",
"author": "dbear",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T13:50:55",
"content": "“THIS HAS BEEN DONE A THOUSAND TIMES OVER SINCE THE 1970′s. THERE ARE A THOUSAND OF THESE PROJECTS POSTED ON THE ‘NET.”Yes there are a lot of these out there. You can even buy kits and commercial versions. But that doesn’t mean that this wasn’t a good implementationand it might spark someone’s imagination to use it to create something new.Stop bitching. You aren",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372330",
"author": "dbear",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T13:52:08",
"content": "“THIS HAS BEEN DONE A THOUSAND TIMES OVER SINCE THE 1970′s. THERE ARE A THOUSAND OF THESE PROJECTS POSTED ON THE ‘NET.”Yes there are a lot of these out there. You can even buy kits and commercial versions. But that doesn’t mean that this wasn’t a good implementationand it might spark someone’s imagination to use it to create something new.Stop bitching. You aren’t paying for Hack A Day. If you don’t like a project move on.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372333",
"author": "Dino",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T13:55:15",
"content": "@ KyleI think you should start your own website and post ONLY new projects! You seem to be an authority on everything! :)Stop bitching and just move on…. thank you.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372338",
"author": "dbear",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T14:13:15",
"content": "@ejonesss“so in theory software tone decoder could be written making the process only a single piece of hardware.”Here’s a start at doing this.http://scottrharris.blogspot.com/2010/07/arduino-fast-fourier-transform.htmlIt’s a Fast Fourier Transform for arduino. Just add a little more programing to do the touch tone decode.It probably won’t have the sensitivity of the chip he used though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372340",
"author": "Oneironaut",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T14:15:51",
"content": "Thanks again for posting one of my projects here!Yes, it has been done many times before, but I sometimes like to revive oldskool jems like the 8870. This IC is much more robust then most software based uC DTMF decoders, and for $5.00, you can’t go wrong.Maybe next time I will dig into my vacuum tube collection for a project!Thanks to HAD for creating such a great resource and thanks to all who have sent in their projects.Brad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372343",
"author": "Oneironaut",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T14:20:12",
"content": "Ps…The final version (in the black box) has only the 8870 connected to an Atmega328. The code was done in assembly and includes many other features, but I wanted to keep the online project as basic as possible, focusing mainly on the operation of the 8870.Having used the Fast Fourier Transform code on both an Atmega324 and FPGA, I can vouch that the 8870 is a much more robust solution, and can pull a tone out of even the most noisy signal.Brad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372346",
"author": "fred",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T14:26:25",
"content": "http://www.motron.com",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372355",
"author": "JeremyC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T15:06:13",
"content": "Nice implementation. Hadn’t thought of the idea to dial in, detect your tone, and make something happen. I’d love to see that implemented.@whiners: Yeah it’s been done before, but who really cares. It was a good implementation.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372364",
"author": "xorpunk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T15:25:20",
"content": "POTS is a digital network with analog trunks, there isn’t much left to do with it these days..Who besides 4chan type trolls would want numbers from youtube videos?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372368",
"author": "Swankie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T15:28:47",
"content": "kinda silly to use a hardware device to decode sounds from youtube. this could just be a piece of software.(yeah i know it is portable and accepts other sources, but this was mentioned)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372416",
"author": "silvester",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T17:32:24",
"content": "@FredSo your, and other’s, point it seems is that since you can buy one for 200 bucks a project that uses parts we all probably have sitting around plus a 5 dollar chip is superfluous?Dear mr. brad,Well that is a fantastic little contraption. Not for it’s function but for it’s design and implementation. Robust, thoughtful and clean. It is what KISS looks like when things are pulled off right.Makes me remember what the hacking community’s virtues used to be. That is to start with anything be it an abstract idea or object; and make it better, usually through the magic of efficiency and design refinement.Usually when I see projects I can instantly make an improvement that is economically and time supportive. My gut reaction when I saw the headline was ‘oh great another little trinket with clunkety microcontroller code and interface, at the least it could have a univesal audio input’ lo’ and behold it has TWO. Nice to see my stinky guts be wrong. Very impressive.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372423",
"author": "Unouhu",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T17:55:14",
"content": "Hey, I STILL USE POTS; POTS AND POTS OF LOT!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372428",
"author": "dbear",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T18:03:08",
"content": "Whiners – this is a great example of a hack.TouchTone is not a obsolete protocol. Hams have used it for years to control repeaters and remote sites from many miles away. The protocol is great – simple, noise resistant, robust and allows 16 channels of control.Want to control something from 1/4 away? Grab some FRS radios and hook an encoder on one and a decoder on the other. Simple and cheap. Add some logic or a microcontroller and you have 16 channels of RC. Unlimited control channels if you use sequences of tones.Want to monitor some remote value? Have a micro at one end encode the value in TT and a micro at the other decode it.Bear in mind that you can also send 4 bits per tone using touch tone. Not sure what the decode rate of this chip is but that could easily be used to send low speed data in a noisy environment. No modem needed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372435",
"author": "silvester",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T18:35:15",
"content": "‘Not sure what the decode rate of this chip is but that could easily be used to send low speed data in a noisy environment.’MY GOD.Frabjous day, didn’t think of that -and I happen to have some obnoxious noise and propagation issues I’m dealing with.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372436",
"author": "bigmeanie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T18:36:59",
"content": "I hate to jump on this bandwagon, but using a relatively difficult to acquire “all-in-one” chip for it’s intended purpose is not much of a hack.That said he did a great job on the finish.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372484",
"author": "Kyle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T20:20:32",
"content": "@silvesterKISS would be doing this without an “arduino”. This is definitely not anywhere near being the most simple solution. What would that be? Do all decoding AND display driving with a single, small MCU. Forget the extra circuitry, huge cumbersome (and overpriced) third party dev board, etc.Just sayin’",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372498",
"author": "silvester",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T21:27:29",
"content": "@kyleyour time may be free, resilience and expandability may not be a priority as well. my time is not free..unless i’m on HAD and /.why spend dozens of hours tweaking code that is proven to be inferior to a 5 dollar solution and minutes of coding. why not use and arduino, throw on the i/o, program it; done and done. i don’t really enjoy designing a board and reinventing the wheel for one off projects, that comes later with production.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372513",
"author": "John Smith",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T22:08:31",
"content": "@silversterYou can’t fight these trolls. They used to be special because they were a very small group that could design circuit boards and build embedded items. Now a much larger group can do it thanks to tools like the arduino so they are bitter about it so they aren’t as special.Yes we wish they would quit posting their negative comments, but they will keep fighting until they become completely irrelevant.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372517",
"author": "o",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T22:26:42",
"content": "I’ve already done this in software. A hardware implementation is good for ham radio.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372522",
"author": "whiners",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T22:41:10",
"content": "Why are you all ganging up on me? I haven’t said a word about this project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372551",
"author": "Cyberteque",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T00:06:05",
"content": "Nice job!But can someone tell me where the DTMF codes are in YouTube videos?I’ve used a DTMF decoder to get phone numbers from TV shows and movies and half the time they DON’T start with 555!!!I have one bitch with this article, what’s this crap about land lines?We have 3 lines here 2 for voice, 1 for the fax.Damn city slickers!Cell reception can be “spotty” at best here in them thar hills!SMS and data works, mostly, but forget voice calls!It’s like saying “nobody drinks tap water anymore, they just buy bottled water”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372556",
"author": "Retroplayer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T00:20:05",
"content": "I have found that people that trip on other peoples’ projects usually are just talking a bunch of jargon. They couldn’t possibly pull it off themselves in any configuration. They just know a bunch of technical words that they like to throw out to look smart. And their anger comes from jealousy.Just like the sissy on the block that can’t fight is always the loudest and most obnoxious. Oh, and why chihuahas (sp?) have one of the meanest sounding barks. I just ignore them. Deal with these kinds of people all the time at my work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372559",
"author": "Retroplayer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T00:24:23",
"content": "Reminds me of when I was younger and there was an intermission in a music album where they called someone and talkied to them. They recorded the tones while dialing. I held the phone up to the speaker and amazed my friends when it dialed the number and someone answered.I was disappointed because I thought it would be some secret number that would win me something for figuring it out.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373065",
"author": "varg",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:52:58",
"content": "@YT2095Yes, it would certainly be useful if you use old gear.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.435694
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/01/awesome-portable-n64-keeps-your-games-in-hand-out-of-sight/
|
Awesome Portable N64 Keeps Your Games In Hand, Out Of Sight
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"handhelds hacks",
"Nintendo Hacks"
] |
[
"n64",
"nintendo",
"portable"
] |
[David] recently wrote us to share the
portable Nintendo 64 he constructed
with the help of the friendly people over at the ModdedbyBacteria forums. We are
no strangers
to
N64 portables
, as
you may have noticed
, but this one was just too good to pass up.
Sheathed in a metallic blue case, this console is an instant standout among the other portable N64 mods we have seen. As you would expect, he trimmed down an N64 console board and some various controller bits in order to fit them into the case, finishing it off with a 5″ PSOne display panel. A small fan protrudes out of the back side of the device, which seemed out of place at first. However, it not only keeps the console cool, but it can serve as a bit of a “kickstand” as well, if the console is placed on a flat surface. [David] also added a dongle for the bottom of the console, which allows him to use an external N64 controller if he so desires.
To be honest, one of our favorite features is that the game cartridges do not stick up from the back of the case when inserted. He included just enough room to allow the game to be completely hidden while playing. Nice job!
Continue reading to see a video build log and demonstration of his portable N64.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZZNuM0pSQc&w=470]
| 19
| 19
|
[
{
"comment_id": "371900",
"author": "G-reg",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T21:50:55",
"content": "Like it, dont love it. Portable is the purpose of handheld. Orig. gameboy knew that above sega. A hack… yes. But some how I feel jipped that its mostly a case mod thats just as thick as the n64 itself. Kudos for your time and effort. With the case in the video its obvious your proud of your work and should be. Just far from portable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371906",
"author": "HaDAk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:01:21",
"content": "It would be nice if it had some sort of battery indicator.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371961",
"author": "Jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T23:45:12",
"content": "and WiFi! and another joystick on the right, but then it wouldn’t be an n64..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371965",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T23:49:44",
"content": "i wish it would have had more about how he designed and built itlooked like vaccuform?mods are cool and all, but, it’s just been donei also like how the game doesn’t stick up",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371967",
"author": "Jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T23:51:24",
"content": "i mean the ideal gaming controller for people with the average number of fingers would have a couple thumbsticks up front, clickable of course, and 8 strategically/ergonomically placed buttons on the back, or 16.. really, if you had 26 buttons on the back and 2 thumbsticks, people would adapt & learn to type with it, like texting in your pocket before phones had touchscreens. the thumbsticks would serve as space/symbols and you could always pull up the onscreen keyboard because joysticks are easier than learning a new typing style.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371997",
"author": "Maave",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T01:01:46",
"content": "Once again the angle of the A and B buttons has been changed. Leave it! 135 degrees is perfect, no thumb movement is necessary.Lovely portable anyway. Very good case.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372026",
"author": "Leithoa",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T02:48:31",
"content": "That is a beautiful case he made. As others have said I’m not sure on the ergonomics of it all, but how much can you really tell from a video?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372045",
"author": "salomon",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T03:21:13",
"content": "I would be more than satisfied if I had only the Golden Eye game!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372068",
"author": "Amos",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T04:06:57",
"content": "+64 internets for use of Forsaken music!@Maave: bzzzzt! Wrong! With the buttons in the original orientation, you can press A with your thumb knuckle, and B with the tip. It’s perfect, like B and Y on the SNES. Face facts; the NES/GB/GBA way–horizontally, like this mod–is simply inferior.The rest of the build is sweet, though! However, even though I love the 2nd player “pod” cable (it even has the numbering divots!) I think I would have modded an external controller with a matching paint job, internal (optional) rumble pak, and rumble power supplied by the main battery.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372161",
"author": "bzroom",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T07:24:15",
"content": "i thought for once someone was going to have put all the games on an SD card and made it as thin as an original gameboy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372166",
"author": "Pilotgeek",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T07:45:33",
"content": "@Amos: Maave was referring to the angle of the buttons to each other, not landscape vs portrait…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372181",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T08:30:13",
"content": "It’s pretty cool. As others have said, it’s quite bulky but I could still imagine myself laid back on my couch playing some GoldenEye.The finish is great, looks very professional. The layout of the controller seems a bit awkward but I guess you’d get used to it.Sure this kinda thing is done quite often. But it’s still nice to see a project that someone has spent so much time on and put so much effort into creating the perfect finish.Good job David :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372426",
"author": "eagle5953",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T17:58:51",
"content": "@bzroom You honestly think no one has thought of loading the games on an SD card? It’s not that easy. As seen here:http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=33012it takes a substantial degree of knowledge and hard work to make games load off a card, and the end result is just as large as a standard N64 game cartridge.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372500",
"author": "Amos",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T21:31:54",
"content": "@Pilotgeek: So was I. Where did you get landscape vs. portrait from what I wrote? O_o",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372536",
"author": "iknowthesethings",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T23:21:07",
"content": "very nice looking portable, but judging by the button placement (C buttons on the bottom quarter of the case for one thing) it does not look like it would be comfortable for any kind of extended play",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373206",
"author": "Jonathan Wilson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T04:02:52",
"content": "Why is the N64 such a popular console to make into a portable?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373606",
"author": "cns949",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T18:56:49",
"content": "Sexy looking machine. I fancy one myself.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375028",
"author": "Bacteria",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T23:38:20",
"content": "Fantastic stuff.Biggi bought one of my cases and followed the how to build the system from my N64 video guides and being part of my forum (link at end of his video), and he did an amazing job; the external port is better on his than mine, ie neater for sure. The videos are excellent too. Fantastic!The N64 is a great console system, great games and not expensive to buy; making your own portable is an excellent hobby and a lot of fun!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "945813",
"author": "live-wire-direct",
"timestamp": "2013-01-23T20:02:34",
"content": "Reminds me of some great times. I miss my old N64",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.546362
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/01/bluetooth-bot-constructed-from-thrift-store-rejects/
|
Bluetooth Bot Constructed From Thrift Store Rejects
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"arduino",
"bluetooth",
"robot"
] |
[John] wrote in to share his latest creation,
an Arduino-controlled Bluetooth robot
. You might remember him from one of his previous hacks,
the Lawnbot 400
. This time around, he has decided to scale things down a bit and focus his hacking on small R/C toys.
His Bluetooth bot was constructed using a cheap R/C tank he scored at a thrift store for about $1.50. He removed all of the bot’s parts, aside from the frame, the battery compartment, and the motors that drive the treads. He added in an Arduino, which he paired with an Ardumoto shield from SparkFun. The motor shield costs about $25, but he does have schematics available so that you can roll your own if you so desire.
A Bluetooth Mate was added to the car, which allows serial communication with any other Bluetooth device. Once everything was wired up, he paired the robot with his computer and got down to driving it by simply pressing keys on his keyboard.
It looks like a fun little toy to have around, and it seems fairly easy to construct. Check out the videos below of his robot in action, and be sure to check out his code/schematics if you are interested in building your own.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsgKESSfxdg&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4aGYvWbGzg&w=470]
| 11
| 11
|
[
{
"comment_id": "371836",
"author": "David Kavanagh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:30:35",
"content": "Great! I’ve been a proponent of repurposing RC toy platforms for years. Back in ’94, I got one almost exactly like this for $10 after christmas at RadioShack. I added a 68HC11 controller and motor driver chip and an infrared range finder. It’s a quick way to get a mobile platform for cheap!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371865",
"author": "Paul Potter",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T20:18:43",
"content": "Very nicely done.Would be very cool to control this from an Android phone.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371912",
"author": "Nomad",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:10:57",
"content": "He said in one of the pictures that a treaded vehicle needs separate motors for each tread.This isn’t exactly correct, because with this one you’re going to have much better straight driving and stationary turning:http://groups.csail.mit.edu/drl/courses/cs54-2001s/dualdiff.htmlOf course you still need two motors, but the major advantage is, that the wheels are “synchronised”.It makes sure, that your straight line really is straight and not curvy because of some motor/control issues.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371914",
"author": "knuckles904",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:14:48",
"content": "So, he paid $1.50 for the chassis, and ~$95 for the electronics? Not normally an arduino basher but you got hosed on that setup",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371963",
"author": "Jake H",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T23:46:34",
"content": "Ahh, that wheelbase was my first foray into robotics as a kid! First it was just decorating the RC car to look like a robot, but as I advanced the gearbox found a home in a rudimentary light seeker and a couple less-functional experiments. Thanks for the fond memories :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371989",
"author": "johndavid400",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T00:38:28",
"content": "the object of this bot was to make it cheap… I had the bluetooth mate lying around (received as a gift), made the motor-controller and used a friend’s Arduino – I already had all the parts laying around to build the motor-controller PCB, so it was extremely cheap for me ;)I will post more videos, code, etc.. when the bot is working with a cell-phone.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372228",
"author": "Nick",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T10:46:49",
"content": "How come people that make robots always have cats? Do I need to get a cat?also.. cool..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372486",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T20:30:18",
"content": "A large number of the photos of my late great kitty Bart were taken from a robot.Good times. :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373049",
"author": "knuckles904",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T22:14:08",
"content": "I rescind my earlier comment then",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373210",
"author": "???",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T04:20:03",
"content": "The true meaning of hackaday is to reinvent something fun out of random shit that people don’t want. +1",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373850",
"author": "Daniel Mackey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T06:52:39",
"content": "Oh MAN!!! This is exactly what I was looking for.For use with this chassis :http://www.n2dvm.com/images/Chassis-1.jpgPlatform and Gearbox are Tamiya and the Tracks and wheels came fromhttp://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/24Made the front “Axel” at work from a block of Delron.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.490328
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/01/sparkfuns-has-da-kewt-kitty-parades-of-stuf/
|
SPARKFUNS HAS DA KEWT KITTY PARADES OF STUF
|
Gerrit Coetzee
|
[
"News"
] |
[
"butts",
"icanhaz",
"kitteh",
"lol",
"sparkfun",
"the death of the english language"
] |
HAY GUISE! SPARKFUN ADDED AWESUM NEW STUF 2DAY. DA PICTURZ WERE SUPER BORING NERD STUF SO I ADDED SUM AWESOME KITTEHS TO THEM. THA WUN ABUV IZ AN ADORUBLE RED HAIRED KITTEH OVER DA SPARKFUN
SOLDERING IRON KIT
! IT’S SUPER KEWLS FOR SURE.
HAH, I DUNNO WHAT
THIS DOES
BUT LOOK AT DAT KEWT KITTEH DAT JUS OPEN ‘IS LIL EYES. SO KEWT!
LAST IS DIS KITTEH. HE IS IMPRESHED BAI DA SPARKFUN
MAGIC BLUE SMOKE REFILLING KIT
. I DUN RELLY UNDASTAND DIS, BUT I THINKS DAT WHEN NERDS PHAIL DIS BLUE SMOKE COMES OUTS N DATS WHAT MADES DAT PUTER STUFF WERK. I DUN RELLY GET ITS CAUS’ I GETS DA LIBRARY LADY HELPS ME WID DA PUTERS.
| 39
| 39
|
[
{
"comment_id": "371769",
"author": "The Ideanator",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:06:03",
"content": "FIRSTEST!!!T3H LIEZ!!!11!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371771",
"author": "Danj",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:08:37",
"content": "ohnoway kitties !makin the electronics, look at them go",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371776",
"author": "Drew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:12:13",
"content": "SO KEWT!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371777",
"author": "Brett W. (FightCube.com)",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:12:23",
"content": "Sometimes we just need a laugh instead of a hack? I guess so ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371783",
"author": "Jaguarius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:22:53",
"content": "I guess the real april fools joke is that they lied about the previous joke being the last :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371784",
"author": "Thopter",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:25:03",
"content": "It strikes me as odd that one would need a soldering iron to assemble the soldering iron kit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371786",
"author": "biozz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:27:33",
"content": "danks foe youseing lanquage i understnd",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371791",
"author": "N3ckbeard",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:35:04",
"content": "APRIL FAWLZ GUIS!!!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371796",
"author": "Colin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:37:52",
"content": "@ThopterLong ago, the first soldering iron was hatched from an egg. From that iron, all others have been created.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371798",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:42:59",
"content": "OH MY GOD! Your not goint to start hacking kittens now are you!?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371800",
"author": "privacy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:49:16",
"content": "PS, thats a realy nice soldering iron controler, I have the same thing basicaly, looks exactly the same appart from the lable, the Quick 936A, both of coarse are knockoffs of the Hako 936A. either way, this makes spares and tips cheap and easily available. I’ve left mine on overnight without burning out a tip…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371803",
"author": "Greycode",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:51:41",
"content": "Sad thing is this, this would be a best seller if it did exist and I know I would have 5 of them.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371805",
"author": "Greycode",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:52:10",
"content": "Blue smoke that is.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371811",
"author": "Aaron",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:55:37",
"content": "April Fools? More like April FAILs amirite?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371816",
"author": "ac",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:00:49",
"content": "Is it me or the cat shit completely fucked up the joke and is in no way deceptive as per April’s Fool Rule #376:“Thou shalt not make it evident it is a joke.”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371818",
"author": "Necromant",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:03:47",
"content": "MAD SKILLZ!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371819",
"author": "Kitt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:04:55",
"content": "geeez *(rolls eyes)*is there nothing more lame thansuburban white boys trying to sound “ghetto” ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371827",
"author": "Kyle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:15:55",
"content": "#1 – Lolcats – Funny 5-10 years ago.#2 – DON’T waste your money on Hakko 936 knock-offs – The real thing is WORTH it! If you want new, buy one from a place like all-spec that has specials regularly. Otherwise, buy one secondhand on eBay. The knockoffs have horrible irons, the handles get so hot at higher temps that you can’t touch them. Hakko models use the same tips, so if you’re a cheapass, get a hakko 936 and buy cheap tips!!! I prefer the nice tips because they last waaaay longer if you take care of them.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371832",
"author": "Kyle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:19:23",
"content": "WHAT THE HELL –I just checked sparkfun’s website, they are asking MORE for a crappy Aouye 936 knock-off than all-spec sells a BRAND NEW HAKKO FOR!!!Wow, sparkfun. F you. Those stations are worth $35 max. WTF?????",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371833",
"author": "Kyle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:20:09",
"content": "STAY AWAY FROM SPARKFUN!!! HOLY FREAKING RIP-OFF!!! OH MY GOD. How have I not noticed this before!?!?!?!??!?!?!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371835",
"author": "qwerty",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:23:44",
"content": "That one well deserves the LOLKIT tag!:)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371841",
"author": "JohnBailey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:34:48",
"content": "@HirudineaWhat do you think CAT5 is made of…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371843",
"author": "G",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:38:06",
"content": "@KyleIt is of course an April Fools Day joke.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371854",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T20:06:52",
"content": "@Thopter I like that the link to the product they recommend to help build it is itself.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371855",
"author": "Danj",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T20:14:13",
"content": "ahah cat5 .. rofflecopter",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371863",
"author": "Akoi Meexx",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T20:17:54",
"content": "I knew before even checking my rss feeds that most content today was going to be April Fools related, so I expected very little in the way of substance, and boy did I get it. =PAt least the comments have been really fun to read today.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371873",
"author": "CalcProgrammer1",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T20:34:55",
"content": "I have the SparkFun 936B iron and it works fine, I’ve run it at full temperature for hours and the handle does not get hot at all. The real model number is Atten 936B (that’s what the boards inside are labeled as). I got mine for free on Free Day and it is a very good iron for the price (even at $40) when compared against cheap RadioShack irons that I had been using.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371882",
"author": "Sodor",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T21:07:41",
"content": "hahaha?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371908",
"author": "Kyle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:04:58",
"content": "@GI’m not talking about the April Fools joke – I went to sparkfun’s website and saw the *real* price on a hakko knockoff soldering station – Sparkfun is asking more than the real thing costs!!! I knew their prices were very high for a lot of stuff that they sell, but damn!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371920",
"author": "Dino",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:16:42",
"content": "YAY KITTEHS!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371932",
"author": "hekilledmywire",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:46:36",
"content": "I would like to know where can I get an Hakko 936 for 30$, really, show me that and I buy 2, even in ebay they are like 70-80$ and want like 60$ to ship to Europe, really…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371962",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T23:45:19",
"content": "I was pleasantly surprised to see that the Rotary Encoder Breakout and the Audio Frequency Multiplexer were very real.Much LOL @ the Magic Smoke Injector Kit",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371988",
"author": "andrew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T00:38:11",
"content": "lol bluesmoke and all dof thing are april fools jokes obvi",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372005",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T01:21:34",
"content": "ROBOKITTEH NEEDZ HIS NOMS AND HIS NOMS ARE BATTERYS LOL",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372019",
"author": "Kyle",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T02:12:48",
"content": "@hekilledmywireI have purchased two on eBay in the last year for under $35 each. One came with an iron, one didn’t. No big deal, irons are cheap. The fact of the matter is that sparkfun is asking $79.95 for a crappy knock off of this very model, when you can get the real thing online for $69.99 + S/H!!! That is hilarious. I guess they must get a lot of suckers for them to keep the price that high. It’s a shame if you ask me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372053",
"author": "rostit",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T03:36:54",
"content": "pudding!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372153",
"author": "UltimateJim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T06:48:25",
"content": "Lol this isn’t an april fools joke, just a simple attempt at trolling.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372270",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T12:01:11",
"content": "Aren’t April fools jokes supposed to be intelligently thought out so that you’re left scratching your head wondering if the joke is actually real?This is plain shit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373133",
"author": "San Diego",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T01:33:10",
"content": "I wish it worked. I could really use some.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.691527
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/01/whistle-to-make-the-art-flow/
|
Whistle To Make The Art Flow
|
Kevin Dady
|
[
"iphone hacks"
] |
[
"augmented reality",
"generative art"
] |
A new project from [James] targets the iPhone with this wild
generative art in an Augmented Reality environment
(free) app for 3GS and 4 running running iOS 4+. Powered by the
String
augmented reality library, and written in C + OpenGL the combo present a power AR platform offering over 100,000 polygons on screen with no noticeable dip in frame rate.
The artistic part is influenced by noise the app is picking up through the microphone. Speaking, whistling or blowing at the device creates 3D generative art, which you are then free to explore in 3 dimensions. It would be interesting to see what it comes up with in a naturally noisy environment. Features also include variety of 3D shapes, color palettes, and settings that can be mixed to create “endless” combinations along with a good to have save snapshot feature.
Join us after the break for a quick video, and be sure to check out some of [James] other work, like the
Augmented reality business card
[vimeo http://vimeo.com/21537332 w=450]
| 3
| 3
|
[
{
"comment_id": "371751",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T17:39:38",
"content": "Is this an advertisement? Or am I getting pulled into the 4/1 joke",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371788",
"author": "Masta Squidge",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:30:31",
"content": "Do not know if real…. >.<",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371814",
"author": "Ben",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:58:11",
"content": "It’s real, and pretty cool! Search app store for konstruct.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.836544
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/01/3d-printer-gets-a-big-resolution-improvement/
|
3D Printer Gets A Big Resolution Improvement
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"3d printer",
"projector",
"resin",
"resolution"
] |
[Jose Carlos Veloso Junior] has been
working on his 3D printer to improve the resolution
. We looked in on his project back in October when
he was printing the blue busts
like the one seen above.
We were impressed by the resolution he was able to achieve back then, using liquid resin that is cured with visible light. The resin creates a thin layer on a glass tray, and is cured when a projector shines precisely positioned light from below. The cured resin is then lifted on the Z-axis, and the next layer in the printing process is hardened by the projector’s light.
Well, this newest rendition far outperforms the initial iteration. The bust on the right looks like it’s been hand-buffed to remove the layer lines, but it actually just came off of the printer. [Jose] made a video of the new equipment in action, which you can watch after the break. He’s keeping most of the juicy bits to himself but he did tell us that the improvement he achieved were due to multiple changes in the process. He tweaked the software to use a more precise curing time, the resin formula has been improved, the ability to isolate pixels without hardening resin around them has been stepped up, and he’s made changes to the way the printer is calibrated and how it lifts the hardened model.
This is fantastic. Kudos to you sir!
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snOErpOP5Xk&w=470]
| 48
| 42
|
[
{
"comment_id": "371692",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:15:52",
"content": "um. WOW",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371695",
"author": "Chalkbot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:17:50",
"content": "That is awesome. Nice work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371698",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:20:12",
"content": "I cannot wait for the release of further details. I hope the resin isn’t super expensive – this is the first 3D printer that I would actually be interested in building.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371703",
"author": "Twerpling",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:24:46",
"content": "The deciding factor on how kickass this is, is the availability and cost of the resin. Honestly that’s where the technology is.If this guy managed to make some sort of cheap resin this is completely amazing. Pity it is light on the details.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371707",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:26:06",
"content": "The resin is mega super expensive. Jose said it’s 500$/L",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371709",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:27:23",
"content": "Although it “looks” nice, how accurate and repeatable is it? If you can’t control the measurements, this process is only good for art projects and not so good for engineering.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371710",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:27:45",
"content": "Living in the future is awesome.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371711",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:28:06",
"content": "That’s so insanely impressive. I literally creamed myself.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371713",
"author": "The Ideanator",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:31:02",
"content": "The beginnings of a homemade stereolithography machine, I like it!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371714",
"author": "swighton",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:33:00",
"content": "Must have this. Building one the second he releases plans.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371716",
"author": "Barefoot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:33:20",
"content": "@Stevie: literally TMI",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371717",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:35:31",
"content": "That’s awesome. Great resolution and easy production of a complex design.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371722",
"author": "nanomonkey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:45:50",
"content": "Nice! Now if it could do this with wax, plastic bags dissolved in acetone or something equally cheap we would be on to something.@Stevie:http://theoatmeal.com/comics/literally",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371730",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T17:00:20",
"content": "Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.Even understanding how it works, that still looks like magic.VERY impressive, Jose!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371734",
"author": "IJ Dee-Vo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T17:03:10",
"content": "@Bob sounds like someone is jelouse.awesome job",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371740",
"author": "japkin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T17:13:28",
"content": "That is so impressive that it looks like an April Fool’s joke. Either way, well done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371749",
"author": "HaDAk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T17:33:05",
"content": "I have $10. I would like one now, please.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371797",
"author": "Brian.Holiday",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:38:11",
"content": "Read his comments, he doesn’t want to release details because he may be sued for IP infringement. I effing hate our legal system.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1170625",
"author": "Viola DaGamba",
"timestamp": "2014-01-28T23:02:44",
"content": "You hate intellectual property laws? Did it ever occur to you that Jose has spent thousands of hours on this, and is keeping the details private so you won’t steal his hard work? IP laws protect the people who make this stuff, too. If you invented things instead of copying others, you would appreciate IP laws.",
"parent_id": "371797",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "371817",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:02:48",
"content": "@bob did you see the quality of the ball he made? christ, why does everyone on HaD have to be such a downer all the time?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371852",
"author": "Krazie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:57:35",
"content": "@Bob – Repeatability along 3 axis seems to be well demonstrated by creating the same shape repeatedly around the surface of the sphere. I would guess that is why he chose a sphere.I would like to know what the elapsed time was for such a build.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371871",
"author": "Jo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T20:34:32",
"content": "Haters gona hate",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371878",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T20:54:00",
"content": "I am no lawyer but it is my understanding that it isn’t IP infringement to make a patent or other information to use for yourself. You just can’t sell it. You can still share info about it or improve upon it or tell others how to do so (although the original patent stays in force). You can even patent derivative improvements but you could be barred from selling it by the original patent holder.This is the exact same printer as the “Zbuilder Ultra” or envisionTEC’s technology. It is a DLP and UV resin material machine. They are about $40,000 and up.There is no support material so you have to build in supports for some geometries. This bust however doesn’t need it but other geometries would. Removal of those supports can be a pain but isn’t that bad. Something (like Magics) has to generate them.If you know what you are doing, the resins are a bit pricey but not as bad as people make it out to be. Bought in industrial quantities, they are quite reasonable – but still not what I would consider dirt cheap like a spool of ABS is.Speed is dependent on how fast you move the z axis. The thicker you go the faster but you start to lose quality.Overall though, this technology (as I have said in the past) blows makerbots out of the water in terms of speed and quality.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "598825",
"author": "asdf",
"timestamp": "2012-03-09T15:24:41",
"content": "Incorrect. Read the FAQ at the USPTO.gov website. A patent give you the ability to restrict anyone from making OR selling what you have patented. There doesn’t even have to be a rhyme or reason behind who you let use it and/or who you charge… or how much.Here’s the funny part though. A patent is supposed to grant this privilege in exchange for completely divulging exactly how it operates. So regardless of the patented methods he MIGHT have used… he could still post some patent numbers.",
"parent_id": "371878",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1170626",
"author": "Viola DaGamba",
"timestamp": "2014-01-28T23:05:21",
"content": "Wrong. Read more carefully. You can make a patented thing to study it, but you can’t sell it or profit from it.",
"parent_id": "598825",
"depth": 3,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "371881",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T21:04:51",
"content": "pretty amazing",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371883",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T21:10:45",
"content": "I have said it before and I will say it again. You could produce a kit like this for under $3000. Even less if you can get the DLP projector used as it is one of the main costs. If you happen to have a DLP projector and some 80/20 laying around, probably even less.A couple of mounting brackets, a microcontroller, a host computer, a power supply and stepper motor, a Z stage (fairly precision but not terribly pricey) and not much else round this build out. Again, extremely simple – the trick is in the software and dialing everything in and getting the right resins.Fortunately, the resins are very forgiving as there is no complicated recoating mechanism like you have on the zcorp or other SLA or SLS machines. So the viscosity of the “ink” can vary pretty substantially (unlike Objet’s technology) and still print just fine.Overall, I really, really like this design and I say that owning more than one $150,000 3d printer. 50 microns in Z isn’t as good as the 16 microns that polyjet can accomplish but it is getting darn close. Get a better z stage and I don’t see why you can’t accomplish at least 25 microns unless there is too much “bleed through” of the resin.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371885",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T21:12:26",
"content": "Build times are stable no matter the geometry you build. His video indicated 3.5 cm per hour, which is about 1.37 inches per hour – again no matter what you build (as long as it fits within the build envelope) as it is exposing the entire build envelope at once.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371887",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T21:19:42",
"content": "Also – this gentleman isn’t in the United States so if he were to give away plans (he is talking about a kickstarter project) and or sell parts to build a machine – I don’t think he would have any liability like he would if he were in the USA, making machines and selling them to others for profit.In my opinion, this is easier to build, dial in and maintain and VASTLY better than repraps or makerbots. I really hope he makes this available to the community at large to build and improve.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371940",
"author": "Burhan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T23:01:11",
"content": "anybody know any links or schematics, that will help me build one of these babies at home?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371982",
"author": "Bakamoichigei",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T00:27:18",
"content": "@CutThroughStuffGuy:As completely amazingly incredible as this thing is, the fact of the matter is that the UV resin is stupidly ridiculously expensive.The RepRap and Makerbot can’t even touch this thing’s output…but at they can use super cheap materials.Sign me up when someone figures out how to make a UV resin out of canned greenbeans or something. ;P (There’s gotta be SOME use for them, right??)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371987",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T00:32:53",
"content": "“the fact of the matter is that the UV resin is stupidly ridiculously expensive.”It really isn’t once you start buying 55 gallon drums of the stuff.If you buy it in “ink cartridge” format then yes of course it is.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372025",
"author": "Justin Case",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T02:47:19",
"content": "But how to make/ convert the output to “lost wax casting method”.Plastic/resin rings don’t impress the wife like a new different Gold or Silver ring everyday !!!I think they would begin a new class, no, build a new wing in my kids school based on these being available.The demand for drafting/CAD class would be overwhelming.PLEASE !!MORE DETAILS !!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372078",
"author": "3d guy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T04:40:35",
"content": "Rep Rap is a Rip of FDM machines.this one is a Rip of EnvisionTEC.http://www.envisiontec.com/Good thing too.. those machines are 100k",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372120",
"author": "chippy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T05:47:24",
"content": "CutThroughStuffGuy: “It really isn’t once you start buying 55 gallon drums of the stuff.”Please provide link to where I an buy it in bulk at good price then…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372135",
"author": "Thomas",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T06:27:25",
"content": "Methyl methacrylate can be photo sensitized. Google it – you’ll find ideas on chemicals to mix in. It probably needs some tuning with regards to sensitivity, transparency and viscosity, but it seems very plausible to make resin at home.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372210",
"author": "Max",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T09:57:43",
"content": "So you’re basically saying the only real problem of this is the price of the resin? So we just need it home made. Waaaaaitaminute…Jerry Ellswoooooorth! The people need you! ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372344",
"author": "techartisan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T14:21:55",
"content": "Cost of resin in a system like this seems prohibitive…HOWEVER, This system has minimal material waste. So while you spend hundreds per liter a more accurate breakdown of cost is the cost per cubic centimeter of build.When evaluating our RP needs, we came down to the envisiontec perfactory machine, that this unit was patterned after, or the Invision HR which uses inkjet technology. We ultimately went with the InvisionHR due to its 2 component build (material/support material)leaving less post processing. (meltable supports vs same material supporst)However, the amount of material wasted by the invisionHR cleaning its jets prior to build, easily doubles the appearant costs. We have to have a full platform of parts to build to justify the “purge loss”. Single parts carry a HUGE material expense for us.This necessitated the purchase of a solidscape patternmaster (predecessor of the T76) to allow single unit builds….at the same resolution but at a huge increase in build time.I still argue that the envisiontec perfactory would have been superior in our applications as we are now running 2 different machines to perform one job…at a higher material cost.Personally I have planned to tinker with commodity projector rp since well before I saw juniors work last year…the hardware side is quite straight forward….The software side has been my hindrance as I am a builder….not a coder.I am excited to see Junior back…..Ive checked his blog weekly since he pulled it down for “reconstruction” months ago. I look forward to him kicking off his kickstarter.Im very excited to see this equipment move into the hands of the makers that have embraced the RepRap Technology despite FDMs inherent limitations.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "522502",
"author": "Sanjay",
"timestamp": "2011-11-30T04:44:49",
"content": "These days the resin cost between USD 100 – 140/kg. I can let you know where. However most of the times resins and machines are made for each other and hence resin might need some customization – mainly viscosity and flow property. Also based on the light source (emission spectrum) and intensity, some photosensitivity aspect also need to be modified. I am from chemistry but involved with 3D printing and can guide in this respect.",
"parent_id": "372344",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "372353",
"author": "3d guy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T15:02:19",
"content": "While the envisiontech printer ( and this similar one ) presents reliability, and unbeatable smooth upward facing surface finish, It does not beat Projet / Invision in speed, or support removal, and both upward and downward facing surface finish.I do look forward to seeing the Z step get improved.techartisan, Your 3D Systems Invision Machine can be tweaked to reduce the frequency of print head cleaning, as well as roughly how much material is purged. You can also adjust jetting parameters s.t. the minimal amount of material is used ( less planarizer waste). I am an authorized 3D System technician. I can help you do that.I am no longer apart of any sales organization, but when i was… We had customers attempt to quantify print head cleaning waste. You can do this by weighing your waste bag, and then printing a microscopic low and flat part in low res mode, then weight the bag again. I think you will find its really not that much. But I understand your concern, it is a common one.Also worthy of note, there is actually an upgrade available for Projet machines that completely gets rid of your test strip on HD builds. This upgrade expands your build area to almost the whole platform. You gain speed and less waste material in the verification strip.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "2584340",
"author": "Karan Soni",
"timestamp": "2015-05-28T07:03:13",
"content": "Could you give more information about the software update to get rid of the verification strip ?",
"parent_id": "372353",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "372362",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T15:21:08",
"content": "UV Chemistry is…. extremely detailed. There are hundreds of products, multiple chemistries. Several categories of different major “types” – epoxies, acrylates, etc. Hundreds of books have been written about it and it is 20+year old technology at this point in time.Making inks at home from raw feedstock is NOT reasonable for 99.99% of hackers. It is truly an industrial process involving some nastier chemicals.However, buying it from the 4 or 5 major US distributors / manufacturers is easy and reasonable. Maybe not DIRT cheap but seriously – not that bad.Let’s put it this way. IF you source in 55 gallon drum quantities and IF you source your photoinitiators in bulk (25 lbs or more) and IF you figure out the optimum chemistry for your application (meaning what ingredients to buy), you can produce inks on the order of $2 to $10 per pound, depending on what you are optimizing for. Keep in mind however that you will be buying $2000+ drums of product and you will need 2 or 3 of them most likely as each ingredient imparts different properties into the final product (just like baking a cake). Some products are much better than others, some are nearly useless, some play nicely with certain photoinitiators and some don’t, you have to dial it all in to the wavelength of light you are using. Oh and they have a shelf life. The manufacturer says 12 months but realistically 3+ years. Possibly more if stored correctly or you test and adjust the inhibitor concentration.You *can* source smaller quantities but expect prices to be about $10 – $15 per pound higher as most vendors don’t want to repack raw materials.So – done right – UV inks used in a printer like this that generates little to no waste and that have only a single ink COULD POSSIBLY BE almost as affordable as RepRaps to operate and produce FAR superior results.Oh and by the way, you can produce wax based UV curing inks that you can use for lost wax casting. See the CP200 series of inks by 3D Systems. Works great for lost wax – enabling you to cast parts in gold, silver, platinum, aluminum, etc.“VisiJet® CP200 Wax Material provides 100% RealWax patterns for lost-wax casting of mid-sized and large foundry applications across numerous industries and uses. RealWax patterns can replace traditional casting waxes in standard casting processes with no special modifications.VisiJet® CPX200 Wax Material provides extreme resolution performanance for high-end lost-wax casting of fine-detail items such as jewelry and micro-medical and electrical devices. Used exclusively in the ProJet CPX 3000 3D printer, the CPX200 material sets the standard for feature definition, accuracy and precision.”http://www.3dsystems.com/products/datafiles/visijet/msds/july08/CP200/24182-S02-00-A_CP200_English_MSDS.pdfhttp://www.3dsystems.com/products/datafiles/visijet/msds/july08/CPX200/24181-S02-00-A_CPX200_English_MSDS.pdf",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "522500",
"author": "Sanjay",
"timestamp": "2011-11-30T04:38:19",
"content": "Resin for SLA machines are now available in the price range of USD 100 and 140 per kilo. This should be considered low enough for printer DIY guys to worry about.",
"parent_id": "372362",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "372369",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T15:28:56",
"content": "I am an unauthorized Objet (polyjet) technician. I don’t service other machines but I do all of the service on ours and I have training from official techs. I would love to hear more about 3d systems machines. The Invision in particular gets a bad rap from Objet techs but that might just be sour grapes. The ones I see operating look like they have been splayed open with all of the covers removed and they essentially are finicky little things that need a lot of care but make nice parts.The real waste is the support material for polyjet / projet printers. It embeds model material inside it and all of it is wasted. You can adjust the amount of model material that goes into the support material but there is only so much you can do before you lose quality. Yes, you purge some too but that isn’t too bad. The real gotcha is the material changeover wizard. That is absolute crap. Manually change over resins. Don’t bother using the wizard but in order to do so, you have to get access to the maintenance menu and Objet, by design, locks users out of that mode and prevents them from accessing it.All of that is largely irrelevant if you are using your own inks anyway because a purge might cost you a few cents rather than a dollar or two.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372733",
"author": "Andrei",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T11:44:54",
"content": "1st April? :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372751",
"author": "N3ckbeard",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T12:46:04",
"content": "If the tolerances come out good and he plans to make it open source then I will be purchasing my first 3D printer. Resolution has been one of the principle factors in my not bothering with reprap and Makerbot.I would also love one that could extrude high grade plastics such as nylon 6 (as used by Glock and H&K)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372807",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T15:17:48",
"content": "I believe Glock frames are glass filled nylon. Reprapping that isn’t possible, I don’t think.“DuPont Zytel brand glass-reinforced polyamide 66”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373321",
"author": "Steve Seguin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T09:05:32",
"content": "i’ve seen a lot of 3d printers, but this is the coolest.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.795694
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/01/kinect-produced-autostereograms-magic-eye-pictures/
|
Kinect Produced Autostereograms (Magic Eye Pictures)
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Kinect hacks",
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"autostereogram",
"Kinect",
"magic eye"
] |
[Kyle McDonald], working collaboratively with [Golan Levin] at the Studio for Creative Inquiry, has come up with
an application that can produce autostereograms
. These are pictures that appear to be three-dimensional thanks to a visual illusion created by forcing your eyes to adjust focus and vergence differently than they normally would. The program is called ofxAutostereogram and it comes with a couple of examples. Both are show in [Kyle’s] video (embedded after the break), starting with a depth image of a shark. This combines with a texture tile, then is processed through the openFrameworks software in the package to produce the final image.
If that’s all it did you might find it rather unimpressive… these images have been around for some time although they were never so easy to produce on your home computer. But the second example is a pretty fantastic one. You can use a depth image from a Kinect as the starting point. As seen above, there is a preview window where you can adjust the clipping planes in order to include the correct depth. This also allows you a preview of your pose. Once it’s just right, snap a pick and process it through the software.
[vimeo http://vimeo.com/21666082 w=470]
[Thanks AnarchyAngel via
Kinect Hacks
]
| 8
| 8
|
[
{
"comment_id": "371656",
"author": "pRtkL xLr8r",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:22:38",
"content": "Cool – now use it to make full-motion video autostereograms…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371666",
"author": "hunternet93",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:32:39",
"content": "Snap a pick? Ouch.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371727",
"author": "The Ideanator",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:56:32",
"content": "I still can’t see that motherfucking sailboat!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371732",
"author": "lwr20",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T17:01:42",
"content": "I remember the PC game Magic Carpet had a real-time autostereogram mode…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371733",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T17:02:37",
"content": "@pRtkL xLr8r watch the video, it was – but as he mentions they way magic eyes works is not ideal for this, as I watched it yes I could see him moving in 3D, but the tiling method used for these caused a very noticeable repetition throughout the image overlapping sections that shouldn’t beWhen he turned off the “live update” the repetitions melted away because of no more motion (they were still there, the eye just cant discern them as they don’t move anymore)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371928",
"author": "hekilledmywire",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:36:13",
"content": "I cant see nothing..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371993",
"author": "jbot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T00:52:50",
"content": "I could NEVER see those #$#@#$ things! Not once!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373866",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2011-04-05T07:30:48",
"content": "The problem with live update is just that the temporal correlation makes it seem like the tiles are sliding sideways. He could fix it by using a randomly generated, temporally uncorrelated, pattern.Also, there are some depth artifacts which could be simply fixed. If you want the current pixel to be a repeat of the pixel n pixels to the left, you should not do row[index] = row[index – n], you should do row[index] = pattern[(index – n) % pattern_length]",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,227.202507
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/01/transmitting-power-and-data-through-thick-metal-enclosures/
|
Transmitting Power And Data Through Thick Metal Enclosures
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Wireless Hacks"
] |
[
"nuclear",
"piezo",
"submarine",
"transducer",
"wireless electricity"
] |
So let’s say you have a submarine, or a nuclear containment chamber which has walls made of thick metal. Now let’s say you want to transmit power or data through this wall. Obviously you’re not going to want to drill a hole since this wall is either keeping seawater out, or potential contamination in, but wireless signals aren’t going to travel well through dense metal. [Tristan Lawry’s] entry in the Lamelson-MIT Rensselaer Student Prize seeks to address this issue by
using ultrasound waves to transmit data and power
.
In the video after the break [Tristan] speaks briefly about his project, then demonstrates the transmission of power and digital audio simultaneously through a two-inch thick steel plate. This is accomplished with a set of piezo transducers attached to both the inside and outside of the plate. Communications originate by feeding electricity to one transducer, which sends ultrasonic vibrations through the material to be received by its counterpart on the other side. It’s easy for us to understand data transmission conducted in this manner, after all that’s how
the knock block
receives information. What we don’t understand is how it can “transfer large amounts of electrical power”. If you can explain it in layman’s terms please do so in the comments.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dc51vpEgoYA&w=470]
[Thanks Larry via
The Register
]
| 49
| 49
|
[
{
"comment_id": "371565",
"author": "nardella",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:18:14",
"content": "04 01 perhaps?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371570",
"author": "xorpunk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:24:27",
"content": "Hope the fact this was addressed by SOSUS 50 years ago for nuclear sub networks doesn’t affect too much.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371571",
"author": "CHuJ",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:26:43",
"content": "CHUJ",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371572",
"author": "rwohleb",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:28:43",
"content": "Piezo transducers tend to have at least 90% efficiency (IIRC) for electrical to mechanical conversion. If you have matched transducers, and have proper acoustic impedance matching through the bridge material, you should be able to get a very good coupling. If this is tied to a highly efficient driving circuit, loss would be pretty minimal up until the receiving element. I don’t recall the efficiencies at this stage.This page gives some good information on electrical to mechanical conversion efficiencies:http://www.ctgclean.com/technology-library/articles/magnetostrictive-versus-piezoelectric-transducers-for-power-ultrasonic-applications/Here is a nice overview of acoustic impedance matching for piezo:http://www.ndt-ed.org/EducationResources/CommunityCollege/Ultrasonics/EquipmentTrans/characteristicspt.htmHere is an interesting abstract on thermoacoustic power conversion using piezo transducers:http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20649205",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371581",
"author": "Jack Sprat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:40:22",
"content": "Perhaps the energy transmission works like an unpowered microphone with the receiver generating current using the ultrasonic transmission.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371584",
"author": "Josh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:41:21",
"content": "It looks like it’s converting energy from electricity to physical vibration, to get through the metal barrier, and then the piezo on the other side converts vibration energy back to electricity. The vibration would also be in the form of digital data, so that it transmits not only power but data as well.I think the stiffness of the metal is what gives it such good efficiency. You’d probably get some noise in the signal if you used, say, a plastic barrier.I’d be concerned about the security of the data, though…would these vibrations be able to be picked up by listeners?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371602",
"author": "Archer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:17:01",
"content": "Probably April Fools. Piezoelectric devices are not likely to be able to transfer ‘large amounts of electrical power.’",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371612",
"author": "Tron9000",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:27:28",
"content": "I too am treading carefully on both side of 0104 and genuine article.data:yes, power: maybe not, if you look in the video he’s lighting a filament bulb…..110VAC at least.Noise is also a big issue but some filtering should sort that.I like the idea but it hasn’t done it any favors being published on April fools day. Or do we look fools for our lack of understanding?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371624",
"author": "Manfre",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:43:29",
"content": "Interesting idea. Before this could be used on a submarine, the vibrations would need to be entirely contained within the submarine to prevent detection.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371625",
"author": "Aero",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:44:08",
"content": "Yes, because in a submarine you’ll be wanting to generate ultrasonic vibrations…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371626",
"author": "WorkingEngineer",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:44:39",
"content": "This is legitimate. Another group at my company has demonstrated a similar technique on a submarine. They were able to stream video and power a light bulb. Noise is not really that big of a deal becuase high frequencies (MHz) don’t travel very far in water. It acts as a low pass filter. The bigger problems are dealing with the curved hull rather than the flat piece of metal he is using and aligning the transducers on either side of the metal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371630",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:50:42",
"content": "There are piezoelectric transformers. They do exist and are fairly efficient. From what I remember they were typically very small scale, where a magnetic based transformer would be too bulky. Also they use very high frequencies. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371631",
"author": "anti-fanboi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:51:02",
"content": "Has to be fake….Proof: Where’s the Arduino?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371633",
"author": "Leif - KC8RWR",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:55:32",
"content": "Happy April Fools Day!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371640",
"author": "IJ Dee-Vo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:00:32",
"content": "has to be realProof: No Arduino",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371642",
"author": "IJ Dee-Vo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:02:15",
"content": "that or its an Apil fools joke..in otherwords, its real unless its not",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371643",
"author": "Joe",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:04:09",
"content": "I don’t think (if not a fake) that the “submarine” application would be used in tactical situations… I’m thinking pier side power. However, the continuous application of ultasonics into the skin of a sub would have to proven not to affect the strength of the shell at depth. Sub sailors depend on the shell quite a little bit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371647",
"author": "somedude",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:13:29",
"content": "Y’know, you could Google and fact-check before commenting that it has to be fake:http://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2011/03/transmitting_da.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371651",
"author": "AndyboyH",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:17:02",
"content": "Not fake, see The Register article, from around 20 days ago:http://www.theregister.co.uk/2011/03/10/through_metal_comms_n_power_reinvented/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371667",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:33:42",
"content": "http://www.theregister.co.uk/2011/03/10/through_metal_comms_n_power_reinvented/Not April fools. Also, I first read about this a month or two ago.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371669",
"author": "ahWellYouSee",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:35:52",
"content": "25W bulb… low bitrate MP3… if he’d investigated the characteristics of his channel (steel block) thoroughly and tuned his encoding scheme to match, I think it could be done. Nevertheless, after watching the video, Youtube suggested I watch “Model bitten by snake on her breast during photo session.” I found that to be very revolutionary, and likely not fake.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371683",
"author": "dan fruzzetti",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:54:56",
"content": "the piezo probably can’t transmit large amounts of power by itself. but i bet the “Very Large Array” of them could.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371685",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:57:06",
"content": "I’ve had the pleasure of seeing this in person at RPI, its pretty neat.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371688",
"author": "Leithoa",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:03:43",
"content": "What are the chances of a system like this creating constructive interference within the material and causing a catastrophic failure? Either due to normal operation or when in concert with turbines, other transmission stations,etc.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371705",
"author": "Steve",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:25:54",
"content": "@LeithoaThats exactly what I was wondering. Wouldn’t all that vibration have some sort of adverse affect? The more power you pump into it the greater the amplitude and at some point I would expect the structure to begin tearing apart.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371726",
"author": "MooglyGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:50:15",
"content": "@Steve and @Leithoa: Yeah, kind of like how all those cars trundling across bridges just makes them up and tear themselves apart, right?Here, let me introduce you two to a little friend of mine called “resonant frequency”…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371729",
"author": "dan fruzzetti",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:59:29",
"content": "It’s quite possible to work out and avoid resonance issues on reasonably-shaped, known volumes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371744",
"author": "marclurr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T17:15:03",
"content": "Old. This was on the register months ago.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371759",
"author": "mic",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T17:49:49",
"content": "Same, read it like a month ago on the register.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371761",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T17:53:54",
"content": "So a metal is being used to transfer energy. Where have I seen that before? Wait … wire carrying electricity :) ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371766",
"author": "trndr",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T18:00:34",
"content": "I honestly can’t see nhe point since there hasn’t been made any full closure usfull container yet , and there for it’s completely use less.@MoogolyGuy Do you know that if you crash in to an object hard enough the resonance frequency of any part of your body doesn’t mater any thing at all?@WorkingEngineer yes that’s true but since were not talking about a round object we will introduce frequencies, where the frequency on an object aligns with a pulse of an other resulting in a magnified pulse and if both frequencies are static a static frequency.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371838",
"author": "Chuckt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T19:32:13",
"content": "It is just another fancy way of doing pulse modulation.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371884",
"author": "Jordan",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T21:11:02",
"content": "I’d be concerned about the security of the data, though…would these vibrations be able to be picked up by listeners?Posted at 6:41 am on Apr 1st, 2011 by JoshSorta like the shine-the-laser-on-the-window effect?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371892",
"author": "error404",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T21:38:31",
"content": "Very interesting, but I’d like to see a paper and not just a bunch of handwaving.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371918",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:16:12",
"content": "This work is the product of a grad student who has been working very hard during his phd. See kids what you can accomplish with some dedication?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371925",
"author": "Jeff",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:24:46",
"content": "@ahWellYouSee Fake boobs?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371933",
"author": "Aaron",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:48:20",
"content": "FAKE, FAKE, FAKE, I can see the potential for data transmission using the ultrasound but no way is he getting 50 watts of power out of that. Not to mention it would be almost impossible to use that kind of power transmitting device in a hazardous location with the ludicrous restrictions UL/ETL/ATEX put on devices that operate in a hazardous location. Not to mention if he can get 50 watts out of the device how much is he putting in?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371966",
"author": "Jack",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T23:50:46",
"content": "This was in the news a couple weeks ago because MI6 has already been using this technique, probably for spying, and they asked the student not to show his findings, which he went ahead and did anyway.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372011",
"author": "Leithoa",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T01:46:01",
"content": "@ MooglyGuy Yes, I’ve heard of resonant frequency. I meant it as a serious question. What ARE the chances of it happening. I understand that it wouldn’t happen every time to every submarine/nuclear reactor/airplane, but all it takes is once to ruin someones day. And as I said above the Tx/Rx pair aren’t the only things vibrating on your sub, so would you have to redesign the turbines and props so that when the vibrations are combine they don’t create constructive interference?Tremendous amounts of money and time have been spent over the years on vibration damping technologies, so how much of these systems needs to be redone so that you can transmit signals through the material? Is it worth the initial investment to redesign everything or just double the strength and drill on through as usual.I’m not a structual/mechanical engineer and don’t pretend/claim to be so perhaps you could leave the sarcasm out next time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372018",
"author": "mike bradley",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T02:09:44",
"content": "Along similar lines. I read a datasheet for wnwry harvesting from vibrations to power small remote rd circuits",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372100",
"author": "filespace",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T05:21:35",
"content": "yes yes yes…lmao the snake biting the models boob in the recommended vids was freaking funny….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372377",
"author": "Till",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T15:49:18",
"content": "The ultrasonic waves should propagate as a halfsphere from the point of the emitter. So there should be an energy loss if the receiving device does not cover a lot of area compared to the thickness of the metall. Related to WiFi-Antennas only with sound. I therfore think that “large amount of power” should be compared to other wireless power transmission channels. If its efficency is near direct inductive coupling i would be very impressed but not supprised.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372383",
"author": "Till",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T15:58:30",
"content": "@LeithoaThe resonant frequencies of large objects are very low – a few Hertz. You just can not resonate a tonne of steel with kHz and the low harmonics decay exponentially and will not reach the low Hertz regime even if a standig wave (resonance) is exists. There should not be any problems at all from my point of view. Only the transducers could be damaged by a standing wave.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372403",
"author": "Squidy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T16:54:44",
"content": "The potential that I see for this would be in transmitting critical sensor data through reactor compartment bulkheads. Bulkhead penetrations are capable of handling a significant pressure but eliminating as many as possible would definitely be an improvement.Power — pierside or otherwise, I don’t see this as a real boon. A single shore line is allowed 400A and subs get 4-8 of these at typical facilities. Underway…well the reactor is already up why take more efficiency hits on transmission that you already are?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372570",
"author": "Dampski",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T01:08:54",
"content": "25 watts! Wow. Isn’t that a large amount of power?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372583",
"author": "Tim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T02:30:50",
"content": "I don’t know about the 50W power claim (disclaimer: I work at a piezo energy harvesting company; in this industry claims of more than 10s of mW from such a device raise eyebrows), but the data transmission part is definitely plausible. We actually designed something similar 8 or so years ago to get environmental logger data out of the sealed Tomahawk (missile) AUR casing. The acoustic modem prototypes “worked”, but transmitting consumed a lot of power (we did not see significant energy transfer through the structure in terms of powering the transmitter acoustically) and working around the acoustic resonances of structures themselves was a challenge. The structural modes can vary with temperature and even minor changes to the structural “environment” (boundary conditions), like stacking something on top of it or moving it from a concrete floor to grass, etc. For the missile environment monitor specifically, the POC for the project later informed us there was a 30-some conductor umbilicus exiting the canister with unused pins we were welcome to wire to, so that’s as far as the acoustic modem foray went ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372926",
"author": "jack roberts",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T18:43:39",
"content": "It is this sort of technology that will one day allow us to leave the atmosphere and take us to the moon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "421843",
"author": "Khanzerbero",
"timestamp": "2011-07-23T19:03:43",
"content": "@jack roberts we alerady were there. XD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "3921668",
"author": "Scott Adams",
"timestamp": "2017-08-18T20:11:20",
"content": "It’s really interesting that you talked about how information can be sent by ultrasonic vibrations. I have been interested in learning more about data transmitting. I have heard of a few different ways, but I hadn’t thought about vibration. I can see how it would be helpful to have various means of transmission, in case one form works faster than others.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,227.283608
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/04/01/i-can-has-hackz/
|
I Can Has Hackz?
|
Caleb Kraft
|
[
"News"
] |
[
"annoying april fools site pranks"
] |
AFTR NARROWLY AVOIDIN TEH AQUIZISHUN BY AOL FEW YEERS AGO, HACKADAI HAS DECIDD IT IZ TYME 2 PARTNR UP WIF TEH CHEEZBURGER NETWORK.
THOUGH U CUD NOTICE SUDDEN AN SHARP INCREASE IN KITTEHS LOCATD IN R POSTS, WE WILL STRIV 2 CONTINUE DELIVERIN TEH HIGHEST QUALITY HACKZ WE CAN FIND ON TEH NET. WE EXPECT DAT DIS NEW POSISHUN SHUD HALP PLANT US FIRMLY IN DA HEARTS AN SOULS OV TEH GENERAL POPULACE AN HALP MAK HACKIN MOAR ACCEPTABLE 2 TEH MAINSTREAM.
PLZ CONTINUE 2 SUBMIT UR TIPS AS WELL AS ANY CUTE PICTUREZ U CUD HAS OV KITTEHS OR DAWGGIEZ. COMBININ TEH 2 WILL GIT U BONUS POINTS.
aaaaand, that’s it. Enjoy your April first and rest assured that the following posts will all be LEGITZ.
| 42
| 42
|
[
{
"comment_id": "371502",
"author": "benji skool",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:13:39",
"content": "this is great idea!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371504",
"author": "chris",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:15:39",
"content": "pretty weak.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371507",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:16:50",
"content": "wtf is this? lamest april fools ever?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371508",
"author": "Douglas",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:17:26",
"content": "Is it me, or would the blinky eye 3D display have been perfect for April fools?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371509",
"author": "OST",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:17:40",
"content": "Funny One, Sure! However I like many others do not become more gullible on April 1st.OST",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371511",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:24:48",
"content": "I’d just like to thank you for not making me read through a whole day of posts written this way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371518",
"author": "Skitchin",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:38:24",
"content": "My hack involves a cat, a dog, and an arduino, is that enough to get featured? :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371519",
"author": "Sigg3",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:38:51",
"content": "And I thought I had the most last-minute-ish idea..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371520",
"author": "JeremyC",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:40:03",
"content": "Oh that’s awesome. I was getting tired of mechanical and electrical stuff, so cats will be a welcome distraction.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371521",
"author": "chris",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:40:19",
"content": "google translate should have a translator to and from haxor!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371526",
"author": "isama",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:56:00",
"content": "I for one welcome our cheezburger nomming overlords!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371530",
"author": "Pup",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T12:03:47",
"content": "Dis post nids moar kittehs. I meen cmon thers not evun wun kitteh pichor hir.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371532",
"author": "Decius",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T12:06:48",
"content": "HaD’s letting out the internetkidism.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371542",
"author": "privacy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T12:19:55",
"content": "damn, I actualy wanted the kitties",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371543",
"author": "Drake",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T12:20:19",
"content": "@SkitchinI Has arduino on mys Catz. I has tehm go left n right wehn i wantz em t00.tehres p120133$ in der b12@!/\\/z t0 !/\\/F!(_)3/\\/(3 em(less 1337 versionteheres pr0bes in der brainz to influence em)i alz0es has buton tooz makes katz meowz whn pressed but n0 debounce yetz. So deys goes me-me-me-me-meoooow-oowI hopz fixes probs soonz. I putz videoz on y00tubz soons",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371544",
"author": "JordanLTR",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T12:20:29",
"content": "The location for the 2011 TED confrence has just been released. After months of debate the location has been chosen to be at Hive13 hackerspace in Cincinnati. Seating is limited so please RSVP ASAP BYOB. Zombie Craig has generously offer housing to travelers so long as they don’t mind sleeping under his kitchen table because his Umpa-Loompas are breeding faster than rabbits.Ha Ha, April Fool’s Day Craig :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371546",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T12:27:03",
"content": "Charles Stross used the same joke. I think that says something about the Cheezburger Network.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371555",
"author": "Spike",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T12:51:53",
"content": "@chris “google translate should have a translator to and from haxor!”I thought they did, but all I found was this:http://speaklolcat.com/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371557",
"author": "mic",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T12:53:47",
"content": "My local radio station had a “live vasectomy” of one of hosts on the radio, it was pretty funny.. Oh that feels weird shes shaving my balls right now… That was a little weird to hear first thing in the morning before having any coffee.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371560",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T12:55:23",
"content": "What is this? At least throw in an arduino or something.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371568",
"author": "jh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:20:44",
"content": "I has hackz. iz on floorz. needz madez to cleen.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371576",
"author": "looFlirpA",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:33:52",
"content": "Nice timestamp.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371580",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:38:54",
"content": "Honestly I’m kinda disappointed because the CHEEZBURGER network is more of a joke than anything. Come on your better than that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371599",
"author": "ibot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:12:04",
"content": "Google has hacker languag-stylehttp://www.google.com/webhp?hl=xx-hacker",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371621",
"author": "Bergo",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:41:02",
"content": "awesome, with a byproduct of improved spelling! ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371627",
"author": "Karl",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:45:25",
"content": "A related article on power generation:http://www.ecnmag.com/news/2011/04/fun/Radical-Bioelectromechanical-System-Promises-to-End-Energy-Shortages.aspx?et_cid=1346093&et_rid=45561501&linkid=http%3a%2f%2fwww.ecnmag.com%2fnews%2f2011%2f04%2ffun%2fRadical-Bioelectromechanical-System-Promises-to-End-Energy-Shortages.aspx",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371639",
"author": "grelfod",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:58:31",
"content": "come on HAD pplz where is your cybrog kitty projects? :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371679",
"author": "Leithoa",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:49:04",
"content": "Good grief don’t you guys proof read anything? These articles keep getting more and more sloppy, a little pride in your work guys, c’mon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371696",
"author": "wosser",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:18:03",
"content": "I’m going to stop coming here.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371723",
"author": "dnny",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:46:02",
"content": "Will this qualify as hack?http://www.flickr.com/photos/dnny/3397878750/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371724",
"author": "Tim Green",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:47:25",
"content": "It’s goggies, not dawgies.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371728",
"author": "robomonkey",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:58:59",
"content": "thank the ceiling cat!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371867",
"author": "Bill D. Williams",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T20:20:25",
"content": "2005 called. They what their meme back.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371913",
"author": "rlanctot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:13:14",
"content": "And it was decreed that every day shall by Caturday!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371919",
"author": "Munch",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T22:16:33",
"content": "Young kids these days. How about, “1985 called. They want their meme back.”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371964",
"author": "Jake H",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T23:49:06",
"content": "I would kinda be OK with this :P I love lolcats :3",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372024",
"author": "Bill D. Williams",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T02:47:02",
"content": "@munch. “…the first recorded use of the term “lolcat” is from the anonymous imageboard 4chan circa 2005″And if you’re trying to be funny….try harder.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372092",
"author": "Michael Wheeler",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T05:06:29",
"content": "Much better than the mains cable crossover lead.http://hackaday.com/2010/04/01/how-to-make-a-mains-crossover-cable/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372587",
"author": "Tim",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T02:57:43",
"content": "I humbly submit my kitteh-powered hack!http://icanhascheezburger.com/2010/05/02/funny-pictures-electrics-bill/Looks like last year’s null-mains-cable hack would come in handy for this too. For those who want to build one, the voice of experience: cats do not like standing in something that moves…and they especially dislike manual labor.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372777",
"author": "mavis",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T13:34:25",
"content": "if i see one more post in 90%+ caps, I will never return to hackaday.com again. I hope this really is a April fool’s joke.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372991",
"author": "snow_cat",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T20:50:09",
"content": "Dang. I had hoped that this might mean more information about the kludges on thereifixedit.com",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "666825",
"author": "Dr. DFTBA",
"timestamp": "2012-06-02T23:04:58",
"content": "Wow. I feel stupid. I’ve spent a LONG time looking around cheezburger for a mention of HaD. Then I re-looked at this article. And saw the date.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,226.913973
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/03/31/thanks-for-ruining-a-good-thing-or-trying-to/
|
Thanks For Ruining A Good Thing, Or TRYING To!
|
Kevin Dady
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"oshw"
] |
It seems that there has been some shenanigans happening with the OSHW logo voting page
as some are using scripts to game the system for their favorite design
. Why? Who knows… How? Well one of the advocates of OSHW [Bill Porter] set about figuring that out, and things should be patched up now, though that still leaves 3,122 faulty votes to weed out on the final day (April 5
th
).
While it is hard to imagine how someone would be so attached to a logo to write a script just to game votes, its not that surprising considering that we can be a pretty outgoing bunch when it comes to certain topics. Organizers are asking if you’re one of the listed IP addresses, and had good intentions to fess up, and tell which logo(s) you voted for to make the process easier. If not, well, “this is not going to stop everyone’s good efforts.”
If you’re just now getting wind of the OSHW logo voting check out
our previous article
highlighting this event, and to get more details.
| 44
| 44
|
[
{
"comment_id": "371271",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2011-03-31T22:45:34",
"content": "Fess up people! I still don’t understand why someone would do this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371278",
"author": "hpux735",
"timestamp": "2011-03-31T22:52:20",
"content": "especially considering none of the logos is really all _that_ great.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371279",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2011-03-31T22:52:59",
"content": "The best one is, inarguably, the black one directly below the topmost red one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371281",
"author": "hpux735",
"timestamp": "2011-03-31T22:59:54",
"content": "@GdoggNO! Now that you’ve expressed a strong opinion, I’ve developed a strong opinion! The copyleft chip is the best (left margin on the bottom), and I feel so strongly that I’m going to set my bot army to vote for it a million times!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371283",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2011-03-31T23:02:24",
"content": "VOTE MY MINIONS. VOTE!/unleashes bot army",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371291",
"author": "NotImpressed",
"timestamp": "2011-03-31T23:17:55",
"content": "Wah wah wah …An article bitching and moaning about someone flexing their brain. Wow.Nice job on NOT coding that vote system very well at all. That was really well thought out.I suppose whomever coded this should take up a job with MySQL (whose system was taken down by a SQL injection attack).Well done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371292",
"author": "Bob D",
"timestamp": "2011-03-31T23:20:28",
"content": "@hpux735The problem with the Copyleft logo is that if you turn it upside down (as will happen often on PCBs) it’s a copyright symbol.That, and it’s electronics focused. OHW should be broader than just electronics.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371297",
"author": "Jay",
"timestamp": "2011-03-31T23:28:15",
"content": "Frankly I’d be surprised if no one had altered the vote with scripts. Common people, we’re on hack a day… you almost assume the vote would come down to who could best bend the rules in their favor.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371301",
"author": "Thopter",
"timestamp": "2011-03-31T23:46:56",
"content": "If I had voted, I would have voted for the blue FSM logo in the middle.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371306",
"author": "Bill D. Williams",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T00:02:09",
"content": "Maybe they should concentrate on figuring out exactly what their name is first. Is it “Open Source Hardware”? or is it “Open Hardware”…cause right now no one knows.Oh, and would it kill you to include a commercial license in it? No, no it wouldn’t. A few of us would like to make a few bucks on our hard work someday. Sharing is great and all, we all do it, and I’m glad the companies involved in writing the OSHW definition are now raking in millions of bucks. But what about the little guy just starting out? You want to steal our designs now too? /rant",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371327",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T00:24:52",
"content": "Allowing anybody to vote 3000+ times from a single IP speaks more to the poll being broken and poorly designed. True, some blame rests on the ones trying to game the system (for an open source logo?!?) but if the system rejected the 10th or even 30th vote from the same IP, this would never have happened in the first place. Yes, I know many corporations and organizations have a single IP and a LAN behind it so don’t make it 1 IP = 1 vote. Yes, people can still get around it but at least don’t make it so trivial that a maker can spend 2 minutes writing a macro to enter thousands of times.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371335",
"author": "pt",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T01:12:26",
"content": "please post a 100% secure and authentic voting system, online and/or offline, thanks :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371336",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T01:12:37",
"content": "Interesting news, but such a petty action for anyone not counting the votes to spend much time on.@ Bill D. Williams; the answer to your dilemma is simple, simply don’t release any work of yours under any open license. However that’s not going to prevent any of the big guys making use of any original idea you may have, and you use it in a for profit enterprise. Many years ago one of the general interest Electronic hobbyists magazines had an article of steps to take to protect yourself in the event a larger cooperation tries to lay claim to an idea of yours. The small guy gets the short end of the stick, if does come down to a battle.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371337",
"author": "1337",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T01:16:23",
"content": "i could care less",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371341",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T01:23:56",
"content": "One word:CaptchaThis is a ridiculous post HaD and because of it, I am temped to make a script where all visitors to my webpage inadvertently cast a vote to support my favorite. Let’s see you track that. ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371352",
"author": "yrss",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T01:49:01",
"content": "A surprising number seem to be a variation on “faulty gear” — is open hardware meant to be defective, then?I’m still of mixed feelings about this whole thing, it seems like a credit grab for marketing purposes by a few parties which doesn’t contribute anything useful to the broader community.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371369",
"author": "jaded",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T02:45:55",
"content": "It’s a really flawed survey regardless, because it’s being conducted in English on a page hosted in English.The copyleft chip logo is doubly broken. First, as you guys said, it can easily be inverted. Worst, however, is it is entirely an English language glyph. Copy “left” is a pun on copy “right”, where “right” is homonym for both “opposite of left” and “freedom”. Puns don’t translate well.To a French or Spanish speaker, at best it doesn’t make much sense, but will more likely be seen as yet another Americanism being shoved down their throats. We’ve learned that a truly international logo should avoid any hint of language. The gear with no writing meets that goal, as do several of the various key logos.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371370",
"author": "GameboyRMH",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T02:48:20",
"content": "@Gdogg I agree. 2nd place goes to the green one in the bottom right for tying in the OSI logo, but it doesn’t look as good.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371375",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T03:10:09",
"content": "i dont care about those ugly logos, i sent in 10,000,000,000 votes to send justin bieber to iraq",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371378",
"author": "scienceguy8",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T03:17:24",
"content": "No matter which one gets voted in, I’m going with “Golden Orb”, the blue gear with the missing notch. It’s in the top 3 of the vote, not adjusting for the voter fraud, and I personally think it is the best out of the logos presented. It is similar to the Open Software logo and it is not too terribly detailed, and is thus easy to either silk screen or hand etch.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371403",
"author": "Thelasthonestpersononearth",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T04:33:57",
"content": "Great,Now I know what sort of a community I follow here, full of total cocks who think just cos the site is coded poorly they somehow have a right to abuse the whole system.The whole “oh Im part of the ‘hacking community’, its expected of us” just doesnt fly-so much for the site coder thinking he was part of a trustworthy community.A lot of you sound like those online gamers who fool themselves into believing using wallhacks and aimbots is perfectly legit just cos the tools to do so are there – the game shd have been coded better. Yeah right!So what if its coded badly, some cockhead cheated, plain n simple. Some of you had better reacquaint yourslves with the real meaning in a dictionary, not only the definition, but also the type of person of somebody who feels ok to cheat.If I were the organiser I’d pull the whole logo event, redo the site to put up a huge ‘dirty cheaters’ banner, and get everybody to re-vote, citing the cheaters as the reason. Then if it happens again, pull it again.Just despicable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371408",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T04:53:02",
"content": "Have to agree with some of the above comments, most of the designs are rubbish and is it “Open Hardware” or “Open Source Hardware”? they can’t even make their mind up about that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371424",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T06:08:19",
"content": "Are the OSHW really legit? They’re using a shitty free poll website (micropoll.com), never had the sense to turn on IP address checking and then put out a whiney post when people abuse it. What a bunch of kids.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371431",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T06:29:42",
"content": "@Spork how would you make such a script? It would be easy if the poll used GET, but it uses POST. And I’m pretty sure anti-XSS security would prevent you from automating to the POST to a different URL. So how would you do it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371442",
"author": "Olivier",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T07:12:38",
"content": "@Frogz : where can we vote?@Stevie : they can’t prevent spam, I guess they also don’t prevent XSS or anything else.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371448",
"author": "Stevie",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T07:28:20",
"content": "Olivier, the protection is built into browsers, ie preventing the use of javascript to automatically POST data to a domain other than the one you’re currently viewing. So it’s not dependent on the poll makers :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371449",
"author": "anti-fanboi",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T07:28:36",
"content": "huh? I think someone needs to grow up a “little”…If one was to create a PCB for a harsh environment and failed to pot/protect said board, is it the environment’s fault the board fails or the bell-end who put an unprotected item in the known harsh environment?BAD environment – take yourself outside and give yourself a spanking!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371455",
"author": "scott",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T08:05:47",
"content": "i could use work to find out from thier last ip and times, but to be fair they kinda did hack the system to there advantage, ihave to give them a thumbs up for that, hacking things is not a bad thing, not that i condone or endorse illegal activity",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371457",
"author": "xorpunk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T08:14:29",
"content": "“While it is hard to imagine how someone would be so attached to a logo to write a script just to game votes, its not that surprising considering that we can be a pretty outgoing bunch when it comes to certain topics.”Yeah because this is the only community on the internet..just doesn’t make sense.Someone is bringing gated-community consciousness to blogging ^^",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371462",
"author": "Drone",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T08:34:47",
"content": "Hah! Just as I was voting I thought – someone’s gonna game this thing…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371463",
"author": "YaBa",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T08:35:25",
"content": "From you know where (old school guys):…Damn kids… They’re all alike…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371471",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T08:56:08",
"content": "Vote early!Vote often!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371499",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T11:00:18",
"content": "I know what would have stopped this attack. A sudden switch to a captcha test, followed by email pin verification, followed by phone verification, and finally an error page once they finally vote to make them think their vote is lost and they must start over again, but the same credentials will not be allowed again.Or you could just pick the logo out of a hat and be done with this foolishness.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371567",
"author": "xorpunk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:19:04",
"content": "manual captcha+xmlhttprequest+proxies=”gamed”manual captcha+http forged packets+proxies=”gamed”I also find it humorous in today’s industry how people who are clueless about technology get ‘caught out’ while employed under vital roles..I could bot this in minutes with email verification+captcha+hidden fields+jscript-keygen,actionscript-keygen and their ‘experts’ wouldn’t see anything in Apache or IIS logs..of course money talks and bullshit works for IT companies xd",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371573",
"author": "Brian.Holiday",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:30:12",
"content": "Why? because they can and nothing in their life has taught them they shouldn’t. Accept it, this is the world we live in. In a group as large as this you are going to get a few.Why don’t we just re-vote in a more secure way?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371586",
"author": "colecoman1982",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T13:45:11",
"content": "Ok, you got me. I confess, I was the one that hacked the vote. All my votes went to the copyleft chip logo. Now, please remove 3000 votes from that logo so that the one I actually DO like has a better chance of winning. ;-)(Seriously though, even if the person steps forward, how can you ever trust them to tell you the truth about which logo they voted for?)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371638",
"author": "Mariano Alvira",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T14:58:24",
"content": "so which logo did the spammers like?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371641",
"author": "Mariano Alvira",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T15:01:45",
"content": "and if I don’t put the suggested logos on my boards (say because they pick an ugly one) is my board now not open hardware?Because I’m pretty sure my boards are open hardware now without a logo.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371719",
"author": "Dosbomber",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T16:42:50",
"content": "LOL.. good point, Mariano.Somehow requiring a specific logo to be on a PCB in order to officially define it as “open” hardware makes it feel a lot less… open.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371866",
"author": "xopunk",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T20:20:01",
"content": "@Dosbomber: clubhouse-rules is a popular social phenomenon both online and offline.I just hope they pay the professional who was surprised by this a lot of money..xD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371901",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T21:51:33",
"content": "I can understand their expectation that in this case the people interested would be the type of person who would forgo being an ass and messing up the system.As for the arguments in favour, if I bash your head in is it your own fault for not wearing a hardhat? There’s such a thing as civilised behavior and we all rely on it, including those brave guys who think it’s normal to abuse anything and everything.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372887",
"author": "Andrew",
"timestamp": "2011-04-03T17:43:32",
"content": "What’s even harder to imagine is how your writer could be so ignorant as to think it takes more than 20 seconds of effort to write such a script. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374745",
"author": "Brian.Holiday",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T13:59:18",
"content": "When can we expect results?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "375945",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2011-04-08T03:24:44",
"content": "anyone ever hear of greasemonkey?it can automate NEOPETS and modify a site in nearly any way so the votes wouldnt even be coming from a different domain or referer(this is a fun tag to play with….some sites used to have their members section ONLY protected by referer so you didnt even need to login, just tell the members section you’re coming from the login page and you instantly got pay naked girls for free",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,227.098044
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2011/03/31/diy-camera-stabilizer-keeps-your-video-shake-free-on-the-cheap/
|
DIY Camera Stabilizer Keeps Your Video Shake Free On The Cheap
|
Mike Nathan
|
[
"digital cameras hacks",
"Tool Hacks"
] |
[
"camera",
"stabilizer",
"video"
] |
Commercial vest-based camera stabilizer systems are quite expensive, sometimes bearing price tags in the $700-$800 dollar range. Photographer [Miguel Vicente] has a pretty well-stocked workshop and decided there was no way he would shell out that much cash for a rig,
so he simply built his own
.
“Simply” is a bit of a misstatement, to be honest. The system looks relatively complex, judging by the build videos embedded below. Constructed of steel tubing, custom-built springs, and a really snazzy vest, the rig is adjustable in almost every direction. He has tested its capacity up to 2.5 Kg (roughly 5.5 pounds), though he says it’s pretty unruly to manage at that weight. [Miguel] says that 1.5 Kg (3.3 pounds) is a far more reasonable limit, and that the stabilizer works quite well at or below that weight.
While it looks pretty good to us, he says that there are plans to improve the design even further. One particular point that he wants to address is the ability for the stabilizer to accept asymmetric camera setups, i.e. cameras with attached lighting and microphones.
Stick around to see a short “highlight” film of the build process, as well as a video featuring a more thorough documentation of the stabilizer’s construction.
Interested in more DIY camera equipment? Check out this
overhead camera dolly
and this
DIY gimbal mount
we featured a short while back.
[via
Make
]
[vimeo http://vimeo.com/21390411 w=470]
[vimeo http://vimeo.com/21316057 w=470]
| 12
| 12
|
[
{
"comment_id": "371272",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2011-03-31T22:46:47",
"content": "The link is light on build details, the video is merely an assembly sequence video. From the video we get there are two equal length parallel arm assemblies, supported by a pair of springs each. A gimbal at the camera mount, and a way to counter balance the weight of the camera. No way to adjust the counter balance springs for different weight of cameras that I noticed other than changing them out. All in all a professional looking final result. But personally I’d change out the spindly looking rod at the camera mount for fatter round tubing. I’ admit that’s only personal aesthetics.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371295",
"author": "aEx155",
"timestamp": "2011-03-31T23:25:49",
"content": "This seems very similar to the Steadycam Merlin system.That steady cam system is made of two parts: a gimbal to isolate the camera, and a spring loaded parallel arm assembly to support the gimbal.This is a very nice DIY alternative.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371348",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T01:36:29",
"content": "Looks just like a Glidecam 4000.http://www.advanced-pictures.com/images/Glidecam_4000_w_Vest_Med_pic.jpgNice build.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371350",
"author": "nice",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T01:43:00",
"content": "It looks like it would work decently. But if you’re using one of these, chances are you have a nice SLR, and if you had the $2000 to spend on your nice SLR you could probably get another $700 for a Steadicam",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371397",
"author": "Renee",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T04:26:06",
"content": "Yeah, but why waste money? I can’t make a DSLR that shoots HD video so buying one isn’t exactly proof that I’m Miss Moneypants or anything.I tend to be anti-camera peripherals. I’ll justify the camera, but I can’t justify spending thousands on stuff I know I can make at home.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371554",
"author": "Faelenor",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T12:51:41",
"content": "@nice: no!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372069",
"author": "Whoever",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T04:07:42",
"content": "“It looks like it would work decently. But if you’re using one of these, chances are you have a nice SLR, and if you had the $2000 to spend on your nice SLR you could probably get another $700 for a Steadicam”I see this kind of logic very often.It bothers me. It’s just plain wrong. At least in the case of me and everyone I know IRL.If you had the $2,000 for a nice SLR it’s because you’ve been saving up for quite a while and just blew it all, you don’t have anything left for excessories. End of story.When money is earned slowly there are far better ways to spend it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "372447",
"author": "Trollicus",
"timestamp": "2011-04-02T19:09:18",
"content": "I still like the chicken based steady-cam.Jr. Chicken Hawk, grabs Foghorns leg and starts dragging him away : “I’m a chicken hawk and your a chicken!”Foghorn : “Actually I’m a rooster, go home and ask your father to explain the difference to you.”, “That ought to keep that boy busy for a while”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373541",
"author": "Mikko Wilson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T16:55:15",
"content": "Not bad; though I do have one suggestion for Miguel if he’s reading:Lose the handle that you added to the post.The Steadicam works by isolating the camera’s position and, critically, angular orientation from the operator. The sled acts like a big lever, with the gimbal as the fulcrum and the camera and counterweight at the ends. Idea is that the leverage of the operator passing through the (low friction) gimbal is not enough to disturb the camera out at the end of the lever. The gimbal provides a massive mechanical *dis*advantage to any wobbles from the person carrying the unit.The added big long handle below the post adds to that lever and returns that unwanted mechanical advantage; meaning that any wobbles at the handle will translate much easier to the camera and the final image.As your design allows for the simple removal of the handle; I’d recommend you take it off and try controlling the sled (camera’s orientation) by holding the post – very lightly – directly, just below the gimbal. If your rig is balanced correctly, this will be the center of gravity, and the point at which you have the smallest influence over, and smallest ability to bump, the camera. This allows the physics of the system to do their magic and keep the camera steady; and gives you a point where you can control it without adding in unwanted shake.As noted above all-thread is quite small, so you might want to consider making the post larger at least directly below the gimbal at the control point, if not overall for rigidity (=stability).A simple tube over the all-thread locked into place with a lock-nut at each end could be a good start; and some gaff tape for grip can help also.– Mikko",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "373643",
"author": "Miguel",
"timestamp": "2011-04-04T20:10:11",
"content": "Hy everybody,thanks for all the comments. Learnt a lot in the process, mostly because I didn´t now squat about steadycams…..It´s not even close to finished but it is functional, I´m not working on it because the post-production of the firsts scenes recorded with it is my priority. But it definitely needs tweaking.Mikko, great advice. The gimbal and the arm were my main concerns (if I didn´t get those right, there was no point in going on), they worked out ok so the next step was the vest (somebody asked me about it, it´s a police-issued tactical vest, second hand at a flea market), that worked out nice enough so I finished the pole…..well, finished……It´s the part that has the least amount of work and it shows, but it can be greatly improved easily and it will, I have to shoot a short film with it in a month or so. Balance is key, so the weight height and distance to the pole will be adjustable, I´m taking Mikko´s suggestion to heart and with some PVC tubing will make a handle similar to the glide-cam 2000. I´ll keep you guys posted about it.Thanks to everyone!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "374936",
"author": "Mikko Wilson",
"timestamp": "2011-04-06T20:28:34",
"content": "I’m suggesting take the handle off completely and try controlling the unit by holding (very lightly) the post directly, just below the gimbal.You other hand then goes at the arm-gimbal connection, so that it doesn’t touch any of the moving parts of the gimbal.– Mikko",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "582680",
"author": "Shaun",
"timestamp": "2012-02-15T08:27:52",
"content": "Hi just leaving feed back on your great video of your DIY camera stabilizer.. Thanks for such a fantastic put together item.. I am going to try to make one just wondering how to adjust the springs so I can adjust for different weights of cameras .. thanks.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,227.154417
|
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