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https://hackaday.com/2010/12/18/if-youre-photographing-and-you-know-it-clap-your-hands/
|
If You’re Photographing And You Know It Clap Your Hands
|
Joseph Thibodeau
|
[
"digital audio hacks",
"digital cameras hacks"
] |
[
"clapper",
"envelope",
"nikon",
"remote",
"time-lapse"
] |
If you’ve ever tried to take pictures of yourself you’ll know that it can be a pain. It’s especially hard to get that perfect shot of your godly features when you’re out of breath from sprinting across the room. OK, yes, they have remote controls for that. But what if you lost your remote or you just don’t want to have to carry it? [LucidScience] put together a sweet, um,
“hands free” alternative
.
Essentially this hack emulates the IR signals sent by a Nikon remote, either to take a picture right away or to take time lapse photographs at regular intervals. We’ve seen a similar
time lapse remote
using an arduino before and
a really thorough
one using an AVR, but they don’t take the same approach as [LucidScience]’s design in terms of monitoring a microphone input for triggering. The project includes several status LEDs and adjustments for ambient noise and triggering, and it can be mounted to the camera body. We wonder how many of the Nikon’s features could be controlled using clap encoding, and how detailed your timing would need to be to have a kind of hand-made (get it?) pulsetrain syntax. You’d probably need to have
world record clap skills
.
Check out the demo vid after the break.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-H0dpP859A&w=470]
| 9
| 9
|
[
{
"comment_id": "286023",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T20:10:09",
"content": "wow interesting hack … i never have had a problem with the nikon IR or wired shutter cables before but this gives me an idea for a hack *gets out sketch book*",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286143",
"author": "MoJo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T01:17:09",
"content": "please stop with the “witty” headlines and just use something descriptive. seriously, they are all really really bad but this one hits a new low.plus it makes your google ranking lower because google prefers descriptive titles.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286218",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T04:39:44",
"content": "@MoJowow someone needs a cookie",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286234",
"author": "jh",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T05:21:45",
"content": "@MoJo (can’t help but think of the Chihuahua from Transformers)*clap*clap*",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286239",
"author": "Samuel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T05:34:34",
"content": "The damn thing is almost as big as the flashgun. I don’t get what people have against PCBs and SMD. If he powered that thing with a couple of CR2032s and used a Tiny2313, that thing could be 10% the original size.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286264",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T07:50:02",
"content": "@Samuelwhen you buy all the parts for breadboard prototyping and you dont care about size to much its not worth re-buying all the parts",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286473",
"author": "RadBrad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T20:08:56",
"content": "Thanks for posting my project!Working on another version of this one to support other cameras and will have an interactive color LCD menu system.Cheers!Brad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286892",
"author": "required",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T17:44:00",
"content": "@BiOzZ: Maybe, but MoJo is still right. I don’t mind the lame jokes, but I subscribe to more feeds than I have time to read, and I like descriptive titles too.Anyway this is pretty cool. The Nikon ML-L3 remote is tiny and comes with a pouch that goes on your camera strap, so remembering and carrying it are non-issues, but the range isn’t so good and you need line of sight to the IR sensor on the camera.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287342",
"author": "MoJo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T11:27:42",
"content": "Well it looks like someone was listening because today there are no stupid titles. Like required says some of us read a lot of feeds. I prefer Electronics Lab for their no-nonsense approch and atmosphere.Samuel: don’t you ever have anything nice to say? I think dome people come here just to berate others.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,316.448659
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/18/domino-clock-uses-an-electromechanical-display/
|
Domino Clock Uses An Electromechanical Display
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"clock hacks"
] |
[
"actuator",
"coil",
"domino"
] |
This clock concept uses big
dominos with changing faces to display the time
. As far as we can tell they haven’t made it through to a finished product yet, but we loved the explaination of the
engineering that went into the prototype
. After the break you can watch [Eric] explain how he accomplished the design requirements of a slowly changing digit that uses no power to keep its state, which also uses low-power when changing state. To accomplish this he designed a flipping circle that stays put in both the white and black positions once set. When it’s time to change the digits, a coil is energized to push against a magnet in what he calls a single poled motor. Whatever the name, we want to build one ourselves!
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aORpC9b_Myk&w=470]
[Thanks Alan]
| 19
| 19
|
[
{
"comment_id": "285961",
"author": "Mahoney",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T17:09:51",
"content": "I don’t know how innovative this is as it sounds just like some road side construction signs you see. Bright green circles alternate with black ones to produce text. Placing it into a small clock package with good design is nice, and definitely a cool hack of an existing idea.Granted this one is much more power efficient. Not hating the post, just pointing out similarities.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285967",
"author": "Melisa",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T18:06:41",
"content": "Cute clock, nice design aesthetic too.To another hackaday reader: if you know where Terabithia is, maybe leave a comment so I know you’re alive? Thanks!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285973",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T18:17:28",
"content": "wow very nice and very professional … but i feel as if this was posted much to early in the design process",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285989",
"author": "hpux735",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T18:42:41",
"content": "I don’t know if this is a hack as much as a product. It looks nice, but then it’s supposed to.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285995",
"author": "Willrandship",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T18:57:46",
"content": "So basically it’s a giant e-ink :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286012",
"author": "tim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T19:38:08",
"content": "and you have to put batteries in each of the 3 modules ?useless and not even a hack",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286027",
"author": "FDP",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T20:44:10",
"content": "I don’t think that something needs to be the dictionary definition of a hack to be of interest to the hacking community, and I don’t object to this being a commercial product.The design team decided to open up a little bit of their development process. I see that as a positive thing, and honestly this mechanism represents some clever engineering – certainly more so then blinking arduino-controlled lights!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286030",
"author": "stormdog",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T21:04:15",
"content": "Flip-dots appear to be harder to come by than I expected. Anyone know of a supplier (besideshttp://www.flipdots.com/) that sells small quantities?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286062",
"author": "Ratty",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T22:40:10",
"content": "This is going to be VERY susceptible to vibration, knocks and bumps, but I love it.They actually did the work and designed the ‘motor’ by doing the maths, rather than using an off the shelf gearbox or something and they prioritised low energy consumption.@tim Don’t be so obtuse, that’s a render.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286080",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T23:24:13",
"content": "@timno actually it uses microwaves sent from a satellite in space to power iteach kit comes with a satellite and a launch pad but rocket fuel is not included (thats how they get yah)oh and its CLEARLY a rendered 3D model",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286137",
"author": "MSRaynsford",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T01:14:20",
"content": "Perhaps someone should tell them that each domino only needs 7 dots per half, not the 9 dots as drawn in the graphics. The top and bottom middle dots are never used.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286146",
"author": "localroger",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T01:24:25",
"content": "This is similar in principle to some flip-digit 7 segment displays that were popular in industry from 1985 to a few years ago. Same principle, the digit could flip to reflective or dark and would stay in either position, with a brief properly polarized push from a solenoid.They were quite finicky in practice. Dirt would gum up the flip mechanism and strong magnetic fields would make them totally flaky. We learned not to put them in any place like a junkyard that might be using big electromagnets to move stuff like cars around, those would flip display digits from 30 meters away.Now that high intensity LED’s are available that can actually be read in sunlight most of the original manufacturers don’t even make them any more.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286244",
"author": "sunjester",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T06:11:16",
"content": "sure it’s cool but I ask again, why? I hear them saying “innovation”, but it’s just a clock. The innovation isn’t even really innovating, only the power consumption, did I miss something?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286307",
"author": "Xeniczone",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T11:40:02",
"content": "Wow, I think I’m going to build one of these. This is cool stuff.I disagree with using wireless technology to make them communicate. I think it should be done through IR sensors on the side of the Dominos. This way there is less wireless pollution in the house. Have one master Domino which would keep the time, then daisy chain them on from their with IR.Not sure how to do the dots yet. Their idea is nice but it would require some 3d printing, which I no longer have access to. Could use LEDs but that would ruin the effect. Maybe that color changing paint would work that was posted on HackaDay earlier.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286311",
"author": "Max",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T11:59:47",
"content": "@sunjester: Flip-dot technology that consumes zero power while static is not new. However, these guys did a rather silent version apparently, which the classic technology is definitely not. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286320",
"author": "phnx",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T12:09:26",
"content": "I really like the aesthetic of this clock- but I’m curious… how does it display, say… 12:42?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286358",
"author": "Volkemon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T13:53:34",
"content": "@phnx-Almost the same way as it shows 10:59 above.There would be double 6’s in the left domino, double 2’s in the middle, and double ones in the right.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286460",
"author": "Nigel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T19:32:32",
"content": "Looks ok but the idea is far from new.In 1981, I was lucky enough to get my first job, programming the electronic scoreboards for the cricket and rugby grounds in Headingly, Leeds, UK. Both scoreboards used displays made up from modules that had discs that were yellow on one side and black on the other. They were rotated with magnetic coils and were driven by a huge control unit. I wrote the software for the HP85, an incredible computer at the time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "513059",
"author": "sdc",
"timestamp": "2011-11-19T11:17:51",
"content": "http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Domino-clock/?ALLSTEPS",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,316.939345
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/18/inkjet-print-head-made-with-a-3d-printer/
|
Inkjet Print Head Made With A 3D Printer
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"cnc hacks"
] |
[
"ink",
"inkjet",
"piezo",
"reprap"
] |
This is
an inkjet print head made using a RepRap
. The manufacturing process is both simple and ingenious. It uses a vibrating piezo buzzer to pump printing liquid through a tiny nozzle. The red disc seen above is exactly the same diameter as the piezo that resides behind it. There is a hole offset from the center to feed ink in between the two discs. Take a look at the test footage after the break.
To make the nozzle a hole was cut in the plastic disc, then a pin inserted and the whole thing was covered with hot glue. The next step was to remove the pin and shave down the glue until the narrow aperture is open. [Adrian Bowyer] is still in the testing phase for this assembly, but once he gets the bugs worked out he plans to test it with a heating element so that it can print using wax and other materials that are liquid when hot.
[Vik] tipped us off about this one after seeing the
printable transistors from the other day
.
[vimeo=http://vimeo.com/17782515]
| 15
| 14
|
[
{
"comment_id": "285944",
"author": "adamziegler",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T15:47:22",
"content": "Wonder if this is controllable enough to be used as a fuel injector.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285947",
"author": "Zagro",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T15:50:37",
"content": "any one think of trying this with a industrial print head …err the heated wax idea that is.probly wouldnt work to well remelting isues or cooling the modle.interesting idea tho.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285951",
"author": "jtaylor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T16:19:40",
"content": "I’ve had an idea but not the time to try it…could one use an old printer and two part epoxies? fill one color tank(say blue)with part A(thinned down?) and another with part B(say yellow). Then when you print in full green you will get an equal mix of both parts in one pixel….not sure if it would work.Maybe someone out there has a spare printer and more knowledge/time than me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286008",
"author": "gryphin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T19:18:43",
"content": "@jtaylor the problem is that the resin won’t cure fast enough, so you’ll get a puddle of resin, rather than a nicely-defined piece. The current reprap works because the plastic cools almost immediately, giving it rigidity.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286013",
"author": "kidcrash",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T19:40:25",
"content": "immediately thinks about lost wax and metal casting.immersion in temperature controlled liquid as layers are added or an air/liquid nozzle on the workspot.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286016",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T19:49:21",
"content": "interesting idea…i did have a thought, those disposable lighters use a miniature piezo rod as the hv generator.a dozen or so hooked up in parallel driving a common pusher plate and pulse driven with 2KV or so from a cold cathode inverter transformer might be enough to make a souped up version of this.(Danger, high voltage!!!!)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286019",
"author": "matt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T19:57:03",
"content": "printable wax resist for diy pcb fab ftw!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286021",
"author": "Vik",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T20:03:08",
"content": "If you want to do “lost wax” objects on a reprap or makerbot, just print them using clear PLA filament. This evaporates leaving no char when you bake it in a domestic oven.The inkjet head should be a lot smaller than existing print heads. I’m looking forward to more compact designs coming out!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286219",
"author": "zzzomb",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T04:41:17",
"content": "Hmmmmm.. someone linking printed transistor post to diy print head. I like it!Related pimp:http://www.hackerfoundry.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=70",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286387",
"author": "jtaylor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T16:16:02",
"content": "@gryphinWhy not try using a faster set time resin? 5 minute epoxy might seem like a long time, but it sets to the plastic stage in 2 generally. not saying it would be perfect…but might be worth a shot at least.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3304419",
"author": "gevertex",
"timestamp": "2016-12-08T01:48:06",
"content": "This is essentially what SLA machines do, just with UV sensitive resin and no color",
"parent_id": "286387",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "286396",
"author": "kabukicho2001",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T16:34:34",
"content": "For education purpose, this is a “How a ink jet cartridge works” but for piezoelectric ones.Any one can tell how to hack a printer to work with a vacuum black cartridge?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286441",
"author": "Vik",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T19:00:07",
"content": "There was a thread on inkjet cartridge drivers here:http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,26026,26060You can thin down epoxy with acetone. That might makeit printable. Might experiment one day.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "954339",
"author": "Courtney",
"timestamp": "2013-02-04T19:44:33",
"content": "Hi Mike. Would you be able to provide specs for this printhead setup? I’m interested in reproducing this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "984430",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2013-03-25T20:48:21",
"content": "Any updates on this? It seems to fall a bit short on performance or perhaps I’m doing something wrong.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,316.557293
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/16/peer-network-using-graphing-calculators/
|
Peer Network Using Graphing Calculators
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"computer hacks"
] |
[
"calcnet",
"graphic calculator",
"texas instruments",
"ti"
] |
These calculators are networked together, able to pass information and play games on a multi-screen playing field. All of this is thanks to [Christopher Mitchell’s]
work on a package called CalcNet
. This networking software takes advantage of [Christopher’s]
shell and GUI for TI calculators called
Doors CS
. To demonstrate the high reliability and throughput of his network he wrote
NetPong
, a multi-calculator version of the popular game that you can watch in a clip after the break.
This is definitely an instance where asking ‘why?’ is the wrong question. We’re more interested in the how, a question you can answer for yourself by reading the whitepapers he provided in both of the links above. [Christopher] knows what he’s doing, he proved that with his
face-recognizing augmented reality
.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Mjn98Bs2Cg&w=470]
| 41
| 41
|
[
{
"comment_id": "285056",
"author": "Homer",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T18:48:55",
"content": "I was promised multi-calculator netpong ಠ_ಠ",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285057",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T18:50:08",
"content": "Reminds me of when i was studying – i made a pointless TI program for calculating annual bank rates. This must be what happens when you’re bored for a prolonged amount of time.Impressive though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285058",
"author": "Pilotgeek",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T18:50:47",
"content": "Time to break out the TI-84 again…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285059",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T18:52:01",
"content": "i think its about time to make a new line of calculators. like a netbook crammed into a calculator. removable storage, wifi, color screen, maybe even a slide out keyboard, crammed into what appears to be a ti-84+ silver edition. that’s the last one i had, and it tempted me to learn BASIC, but idk where it is anymore, so i can’t really practice my BASIC anymore. back then, it was the best calculator that you could legally use on tests",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285060",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T18:52:11",
"content": "That is a crazy pong game. I really wanted to do some sort of calculator network like that (at least in high school). Very cool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285062",
"author": "alan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T18:55:45",
"content": "@jeditalianLOL at you thinking only 6 years ago was “back then” you make it seem like it was so long ago. that’s barely a hiccup in calculator years, geez.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285064",
"author": "cb88",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T18:56:31",
"content": "@jeditalianCheck out the HP50g … its not ALL that… but it is impressive. And it has a nice keyboard.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285066",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T19:02:59",
"content": "How long before I can put porn on them? That is usually the progression of technology. You know it is mainstream when it has pornography.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285068",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T19:04:08",
"content": "if it has a QWERTY keyboard, disqualified. or i would have gotten the TI-92. back then was Æons ago for me. i’ve been through like 20 cell phones since then, and back then, paid unbelievable prices for high capacity flash drives (1 or 2 gb for over $100, don’t really remember) that are long-gone, broke and lost before a year was up, have all my java programming work on them, and i could buy a 64gb flash drive for the same price today.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285069",
"author": "pRtkL xLr8r",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T19:05:27",
"content": "Why?Haha…but seriously, why.Just kidding. But really, why.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285071",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T19:09:04",
"content": "you can already put porn on them, but you could do better with a pencil lol",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285072",
"author": "Christopher Mitchell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T19:12:28",
"content": "@pRtkL xLr8r: Because it’s fun writing programs and making gadgets that have cutting-edge, useful applications, and it’s also fun trying to use my EE degrees to cram a robust networking stack into a few kilobytes of z80 assembly code. :) I think the answer to “why” is more or less “to show that I can.”@jeditalian: Texas Instruments has been pushing their TI-Nspire, but it is universally loathed by the TI calculator programming scene as being absolutely useless. It has almost no inbuilt programming capabilities, and although it has much more powerful hardware than any of their previous calculators, including a 200MHz ARM CPU instead of a 6MHz or 15MHZ z80, the only way to run homemade assembly/C programs is to essentially “jailbreak” it, which TI keeps patching and prevent in subsequent firmware revisions.@Bob: I’m sure it’s been done decades ago, but monochrome and 96×64?@Eirinn: I beg to differ, if you don’t mind; I wish I had the free time to be bored.@Mike: Thanks for featuring my project!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285076",
"author": "Richard",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T19:24:23",
"content": "Brilliant… simply brilliant.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285098",
"author": "Richard Milward",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T20:35:36",
"content": "I remember Geordi saying in a ST:TNG episode, “Maybe I could network some tricorders together…” You actually did it — very cool!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285099",
"author": "kernelcode",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T20:39:48",
"content": "Does that calculator really have go-faster stripes?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285100",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T20:47:16",
"content": "Awesome! This network of calculators has almost as much processing power as a $150 iPod Nano! And it only cost 9 times as much!;)But I’ve done useless things before too, this is cool. :)-Taylor",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285101",
"author": "Christopher Mitchell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T20:54:29",
"content": "@Richard: Cheers!@Richard Milward: Haha, I’ll have to find that episode.@kernelcode: Racing stripes and a touchpad:http://www.cemetech.net/projects/ee/ucalc2/@Taylor: True, but I’d imagine it would be easier to get away with an 8-way RTS game or chatting program in math class on a calculator than on an iPod. ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285115",
"author": "Scout David",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T21:21:27",
"content": "I may try to cheat in tests using this some day. I bet that I could connect cables from one table to another without the teacher noticing :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285118",
"author": "Parker Reed",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T21:24:43",
"content": "Nice work!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285139",
"author": "cpmike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T22:23:46",
"content": "Years ago I wrote a Chat/Msg program using Ti-Basic… paired with an extra long link cable I was communicating with my buddy during tests. Helped, and was a lot of fun (blew some peoples minds) but this is way, way cooler. Nowadays I guess its kind of useless but it still strikes me as completely awesome. Time to go read more in depth…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285151",
"author": "Nemo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T22:42:33",
"content": "Crazy coincidence, I’ve been working on the same thing slowly for the last few months. Beaten to completion and in quality, but I don’t mind. Awesome project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285159",
"author": "CharonPDX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T23:17:49",
"content": "Hrm, there were alternate OSes for HP’s 48-series calculators back in the mid-to-late ’90s. Heck, there’s a TCP/IP stack that runs on the circa-1992 HP 48 just fine, along with a web server! (Obviously, it connects via PPP since serial is the only interface.)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285179",
"author": "Kaboof",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T00:03:06",
"content": "Reading so many comments about cheating with this.. I think there should be a wireless version too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285212",
"author": "Concerned EE",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T01:18:50",
"content": "@Kaboof: For non-cheating purposes, I’ve played around with wireless implementations, but nothing finalized yet.@CharonPDX: Someone once made a Telnet client for the TI-83, but it required a modem to be connected via a null modem cable, so it didn’t really do any serious communication processing on the calculator itself.@Nemo: ah, thanks, much appreciated. As you can tell by the version number, CALCnet2.2 is the culmination of the better part of a decade of having insufficient networking or z80 ASM knowledge to complete the project. :)@cpmike: And the teacher didn’t notice the link cable?@ScoutDavid: I highly disapprove of that usage of CALCnet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285224",
"author": "blue carbuncle",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T02:04:09",
"content": "At first I was like :) then I was all like 8D.Amazing all of the things folks keep coming up with!Keep up the good work!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285271",
"author": "William Legg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T04:13:39",
"content": "SETI @ Home, anyone?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285285",
"author": "cornelius785",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T05:28:32",
"content": "@cpmikeOn the final test for some math class, a friend asked if he could borrow my spare graphing calculator and I said sure. After the test, I checked the history and came to the conclusion that messages were typed and then calculators were swapped, much lower tech.I’ve been kicking around the idea of designing, building a wireless link and try to jam it inside the calculator so it looks like (aside from the calculators with translucent cases) perfectly normal. I smell an open source + group project :P . I suppose that could lead to a couple things: electronic warefare (snooping, jamming, counter-EW, etc.) and banning of personal graphing calculators for some tests. But think of all the fun MP games everyone could play during math class :P .",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285307",
"author": "seanfalloy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T07:22:03",
"content": "@cornelius785I was just thinking wireless dongle. But an internal setup would be great although i dont know how much internal space there is to use. (great hacker i know i havent even taken my calculator apart yet :S) A dongle would be a good start for sure though. Maybe a small zigbee or 802.11 (add wifi to the calculator)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285328",
"author": "Christopher Mitchell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T08:33:38",
"content": "@seanfalloy: Unfortunately, the processing power required by a WiFi module is prohibitive on current calculator models excluding the Nspire. Zigbee is an option, but it would be better to simply come up with a good way to encode the two-channel bidirectional wiring on some kind of standard RF link.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285334",
"author": "kristian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T08:47:20",
"content": "@cornelius785: just math class? back in school i was on my calculator in EVERY class. that was even before i knew how to text… i sound much older than i actually am :P@seanfalloy: it’s been a while since i cracked open my 86 (i can’t even find it now…) but i think things are fairly packed, though not by today’s standards. if you swapped out the batteries for a flat lithium polymer battery or something, there might be room for a little board there…@Christopher Mitchell: i’m kindof sad that technology rushed through IR communication (or maybe i just missed it). i feel like there’s a novelty to pointing two devices together for a slow, tenuous short-range connection. with that in mind, could one just breakout the existing IO port with an LED and phototransitor? that sounds like it must have been done before",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285360",
"author": "cpmike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T10:26:37",
"content": "@ConcernedEE: during class she didn’t care about it, but during said test she found it eventually and wore it around her neck for the rest of the session. as a joke, I pulled out my spare cable ;)@cornelius785: always dreamed of a wireless version! back then that was a little out of my reach… I feel like it would be MUCH easier today, though its a shame that I rarely use it anymore, considering how much time I had spent programming that thing.a little UART Bluetooth module may be small enough to squeeze in there, and throwing some SPP back and forth shouldnt be too hard.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285372",
"author": "jcg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T11:03:20",
"content": "For wireless wouldn’t a lowpower transmitter be better suited? Like the one used in the article form a couple of days ago.The downside is you’ll have to add a µC to convert the data from the calculator to something the ic understands. But the µC wouldn’t have to be that big, any with SPI will do",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285373",
"author": "Kaboof",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T11:05:15",
"content": "@cpmike UART BT Module was what came first to my mind too (well.. there is one lying on my desk so it was also the nearest to my mind..) and as the TIs aren’t “tiny” or “small” I could imagine there is a spare place to put one in :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285569",
"author": "Christopher Mitchell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T17:12:32",
"content": "@cpmike and @jcg, if you guys happen to stop by Cemetech at some point, I’d love to have a discussion with you on the forum about what kind of wireless transmission method you think would be appropriate, fairly simple, and relatively inexpensive. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285750",
"author": "mittagessen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T02:23:43",
"content": "We actually build a wireless transceiver module for the Voyage 200 , one of TIs m68k based calculators. Never got around to finish the calculator part for it, but the hardware is working and the module firmware is complete, too. And it fits completely in the case of the calculator! We put a SD card on the module, too so you can extend the memory of your calculator to 4Gb. Have a look at it at bttec.org. Everything is open source.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285818",
"author": "Gordon Mott",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T06:39:04",
"content": "I remember when I was in high school ten years ago Texas Instruments had networking hubs in our calculus class… one per table, and each hub cascaded into a computer at the front of the class, or another calculator. You could either control all of the calculators from the master calculator, or push apps, or whatever you want. I still remember writing client/server apps on that network.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285877",
"author": "synth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T10:25:19",
"content": "i don’t mean to be obtuse here, but..what’s the deal with all of the ti-83 / 84 / old bs love?you spent some serious time with that platform. why not ti-89 instead? much better screen res at the very least.is the 83 firmware/os less restrictive or something?or is it just that you’ve been toying with the 83 you’ve had forever and ever, and you don’t care to abandon your experience with it in favor of something else?idk, i use my 89-titanium all the time. i find doing work on the 83/84 to be painful. even if you’re not doing much with its CAS, the enhanced screen resolution and vastly superior interface [scrolling around through command history, pretty type and formatting, etc] to be a night-and-day difference. i was a little disappointed when i read that it’s for the 83 platform ;[the nspire sounds cool, but from what i’ve been able to gather, the software sucks. the 89 is currently more functional if you’re looking for, you know, a good calculator / portable CAS tool. i’m also a little surprised that the ti-89 and hp50g, which seem to be the leaders in this product category, are only this good. they could be better. all of this college board / SAT / ACT certification stuff irks me, too. i guess that’s what a lot of the things i’m bitching about stem from. in the end, they seem to be intended for kids. the fact that these things come pre-loaded with SAT study card / US presidents quiz / stupid bs like that illustrates this. they’re classroom tools. anyone know of a big boy calculator? there are a lot of little [and big] things that could be fixed or added, but it seems like improvements and new features are not necessary for the target consumers. sure, there’s mathematica / matlab / whatever, but it’s nice to have something with very high durability, battery life, and portability. i guess i’m not a very big market segment. ;[",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287233",
"author": "Tex©",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T06:46:09",
"content": "add bluetooth",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "312698",
"author": "asm",
"timestamp": "2011-01-23T20:17:17",
"content": "The TI-89 is not supported as it has a Motorola CPU and Doors CS is written entirely in Z80 assembly.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "339985",
"author": "mrbrt",
"timestamp": "2011-02-23T08:42:58",
"content": "Why go with BT?Maxim makes really impressive system on a chip modules that require minimal amounts of power. Add a QFN micro to do the communication and you could fit the entire thing into the calculator and power it off the batteries without any adverse effect.. Or make a little plugin module.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2047398",
"author": "ROFL",
"timestamp": "2014-10-27T01:43:04",
"content": "How about using a small cheap wireless module and arduino + the calc to group-cheat-chat in scool :PNoClue has joined the channel.Cheater has joinned the channel.NoClue: Do you know the solution of number six? LOLCheater: I think it’s a number, ROFL!NoClue: A number? U sure? I mean, in a math test? L-O-LCheater: XDNoClue: EggsDee",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,317.075166
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/16/chat-list-indicator-uses-hacked-xmas-lights/
|
Chat List Indicator Uses Hacked Xmas Lights
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"computer hacks"
] |
[
"chat",
"christmas lights",
"IM",
"instant message",
"microsoft lync"
] |
Here’s a way to
display which friends are logged into chat
. This uses the same
G-35 hacked Christmas lights
we saw earlier in the month. [Andrejk’s] company uses Microsoft Lync as their chat protocol when working in teams. The service has an SDK that allowed him to write some .NET code to check status and display it on the string of lights. It works much as you would expect; red for busy, green for available, purple is out-of-office, and we’d guess that yellow is for away. Watch him demonstrate the system after the break.
[vimeo=http://vimeo.com/17699178]
[via
Download Squad
and
istartedsomething
]
| 8
| 8
|
[
{
"comment_id": "285021",
"author": "Noodle",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T17:19:04",
"content": "Cool, seems really useful.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285023",
"author": "Luke",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T17:19:29",
"content": "That reminds me of the big light-up board in the team fortress 2 spy video. I’ve always wanted to build something like that. BLUE-TEAM-HAS LOST-DRACULA.http://www.mrmof.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/tf2-alarm-board.jpg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285028",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T17:46:48",
"content": "Dude, get a decent webcam, or better yet a real video camera.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285078",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T19:36:17",
"content": "Nice and I am still looking for those freaking LED lights in Canada…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285209",
"author": "localroger",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T01:10:38",
"content": "I have got to get some of these lights.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285232",
"author": "Kris Lee",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T02:16:05",
"content": "Greate idea!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285310",
"author": "anufaq",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T07:36:02",
"content": "thats really cool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285627",
"author": "Merried Seinor Comic",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T20:45:36",
"content": "graet job, i am very proud now",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,316.822841
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/15/reading-a-digital-caliper-with-a-microcontroller/
|
Reading A Digital Caliper With A Microcontroller
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Microcontrollers",
"Tool Hacks"
] |
[
"caliper",
"launchpad",
"msp430g2231",
"ti"
] |
[Maris] wanted a way to
read measurements from a digital caliper electronically
. He ended up using the TI Launchpad to accomplish this, but not all of the necessary hardware is seen above. The calipers cost him about $7 on eBay, and they have four interface pins which made this hack quite a bit easier. After a bit of probing he established their purpose; voltage, ground, clock and data. A bit of scoping proved that data was being sent in 24-bit burst in packets that are quite easy to decode.
From there it’s just a matter of interfacing with a microcontroller. The chip he’s using is an MSP430G2231 that runs at 3.3V, but the caliper’s logic high is only 1.5v. By constructing an adapter using a pair of transistors, the data and clock from the calipers are able to pull pins on the MSP430 low. This is collected and analyzed by [Maris’] firmware and can be read on a PC using a terminal program.
[Thanks Chris]
| 21
| 20
|
[
{
"comment_id": "284683",
"author": "Kris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T20:51:38",
"content": "This is an interesting hack that has already been hashed over a few times in several machinists forums. There’s a couple projects out there to read multiple calipers at the same time so you can use the cheap Chinese calipers as DRO’s (digital readouts) to know the absolute positions of your X/Y/Z/Quill on a vertical/horizontal mill or lathehttp://www.msh-tools.com/DRO/index.htmlhttp://www.yadro.de/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284685",
"author": "Casey O'Donnell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T20:55:21",
"content": "that uC works great with two rechargeable AA batteries @ 2.4V, datasheet says 1.8V minimum.$7 is a nice price for those i can only find one for $12.now pair it with a laser.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284690",
"author": "Salvador Faria",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T21:16:14",
"content": "Nice hack, now we can monitor fruits growth",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284691",
"author": "uC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T21:17:41",
"content": "Nice link Kris.They have a iPod DRO. That looks slick. It would probably look really nice with a larger screen. Like the colour nook, or any android tablet.http://www.msh-tools.com/DRO/ipprg.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "4427609",
"author": "why a fuck of course",
"timestamp": "2018-03-18T23:48:55",
"content": "this is a malicious link now",
"parent_id": "284691",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "284694",
"author": "addids",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T21:21:21",
"content": "I always figured that was an unpopulated usb jack.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284696",
"author": "sdmadsen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T21:31:17",
"content": "Please tell me I’m not the only person who read the title as Reading a digital caliper with a micrometer",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284709",
"author": "Giorgos Lazaridis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T22:12:47",
"content": "I had run an experiment a year ago. I put 2 different calipers n the oscilloscope and reverse-engineered the protocols they used. They had different protocols, and also i found a third one:http://pcbheaven.com/exppages/Digital_Caliper_Protocol",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284716",
"author": "Maris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T22:26:57",
"content": "Glad you like it! I have the link in my article to guy I bought it from for 7$ including slow shipping (I have no connection to him whatsoever). Others where closer to 10$ as you say.Yeah, you could pair couple of those with miling machine and make small CNC type of thing. My initial idea was to use it as position sensor for motocycle suspesion data loging, but 8 times a second won’t be enough for that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284718",
"author": "Marco",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T22:33:50",
"content": "“Nice hack, now we can monitor fruits growth”And use the fruit’s acid to run the low-power TI uC !",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284723",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T23:02:48",
"content": "@sdmadsenNO! I read it once , thought about it, and thought reading a digital caliper digitally. And thought well gee thats dumb just look at the lcd. Then the second time I realized what they meant.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284727",
"author": "PocketBrain",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T23:16:54",
"content": "You guys covered [David Cook] using a digital caliper as a depth gauge on his milling machine.http://hackaday.com/2010/03/27/swapping-coins-cells-for-capacitors-for-noise-filtering/It would be nice to get that RS232 protocol converter miniaturized; you could go wireless with a bluetooth-serial module.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284776",
"author": "gyro_john",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T01:16:54",
"content": "@Maris:If you need more speed, try this: give up on the SPC data interface and get the encoder signals directly. I suggest you try to find them, not at the pickup or read head, but after a stage of amplification. You’re looking for a pair of square waves in quadrature (90 deg. apart in phase).Since the signals would probably not be CMOS- or TTL-compatible, you might have to buffer them up with a couple of transistors.Your Launchpad should be plenty quick enough to keep up with the count at the rate your bike suspension will move.I’ve done a couple of projects with microcontrollers reading and doing math on encoder outputs. If you should need a little insight, feel free to ask.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284960",
"author": "saimhe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T13:04:16",
"content": "He is lucky with those transistors. Conditioning a bidirectional push-pull line (think MOSI/MISO at 10 MHz) with ubiquitous discrete components would be nightmare in comparison.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285042",
"author": "Maris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T17:55:50",
"content": "@gyro_johnYou mean to read directly before that small caliper mcu, like directly those capacitance sensors? Yeah, that sounds interesting… but as you say I’m not sure how much “energy” those signals would have… If you have any more pointers/links, feel free to send them my way. If that works out, could be nice topic for another article :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285082",
"author": "ladz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T20:02:26",
"content": "There is an open source package called OpenDRO that has C code to read these using an ARM. I know a lot of work has been put into that project with different scales. Some of them use different protocols.One thing that’s really nice is that the OpenDRO code puts the capable calipers into a high resolution mode so you can actually get more digits out, though probably at questionable accuracy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285144",
"author": "Bakamoichigei",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T22:32:33",
"content": "Oh hell yes! I’ve been wondering how to interface with the port on my digital caliper (Same as pictured) and I have three Launchpads I’ve barely touched! :3",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285742",
"author": "raisin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T01:48:35",
"content": "Similar post with tons of basic explanation and video:http://www.nerdkits.com/videos/digital_calipers_dro/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "289980",
"author": "gyro_john",
"timestamp": "2010-12-24T23:18:36",
"content": "@Maris:I e-mailed you a rather long thing of my comments on how to parse the two square waves – I thought it too long to post here. Sorry everybody; I don’t have a good place where I can leave it forever.However I thought that two other comments might be of interest:1. As to low-energy signals, let me suggest that I would connect them to the gates of FETs, then the loading would be very small.2. Here’s a new idea I just had this week to get a longer linear encoder from cheap calipers. I’m excited to try it. You see I have a very small home milling machine with 14″ X-axis travel, so no cheap caliper will have a long enough stroke. Here’s my idea: I chain two of them together in series. They will both extend and collapse randomly together. Since we now know how to do conversion math on the square wave inputs, I run the outputs of BOTH calipers to my conversion circuit and output equivalent A, Abar, B and Bbar signals equivalent to the sum of what the two calipers are doing.Happy Holidays, all.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "290465",
"author": "Carlo Heras",
"timestamp": "2010-12-25T23:43:29",
"content": "The TI [censored] still haven’s shipped my order from August. Calling TI support is like calling the phone company “We don’t care. We don’t have to.”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "606511",
"author": "Marinus",
"timestamp": "2012-03-18T18:33:43",
"content": "Hi, Im doing a project also using a digital caliper, what type of caliper would you surgest using, I will also pickup the signal, (the data stream) to fead into my own circuit, and where can I find the type of protocols they use?Thanx Marinus",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,316.507765
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/15/falling-sand-game-on-and-fpga/
|
Falling Sand Game On An FPGA
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"Altera",
"cyclone II",
"falling sand",
"fpga"
] |
This
falling sand game runs on a field-programmable gate array
. The Altera Cyclone II resides at the heart of that development board, running the game which was written in Verilog. [Skyler Schneider] modeled his project after a Java version of the game called
Pyro Sand Game
. He treats each pixel of the 640×480 VGA screen as its own cell, following a set of rules to change the cells around it. This is very similar to
Conway’s Game of Life
, except that there are different categories of cells that behave uniquely (oil, water, plant, fire, etc.) and gravity is a key factor. Of particular interest to us were the rules for each cell, and the method [Skyler] used to feed and sync the VGA output. After the break you can see his demonstration videos, which walk through all of the features including the Troll button.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP2Dgi21O2c&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxXG9xpgT5A&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbLXzA9gz7w&w=470]
[Thanks Andrew]
| 17
| 17
|
[
{
"comment_id": "284663",
"author": "Stulander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:52:51",
"content": "This is cool, just like this physics game:http://dan-ball.jp/en/javagame/dust/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284667",
"author": "BitMage",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T20:22:09",
"content": "I sometimes feel bad for only these kinds of comments, but shouldn’t the title of this article be “Falling sand game on an FPGA”? and not “and”?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284669",
"author": "matt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T20:24:30",
"content": "My one weakness… the falling sand game! Put this thing in an enclosure with a touch screen and I’d buy one in an instant.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284706",
"author": "Mario",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T22:06:17",
"content": "Very Nice, congrats!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284707",
"author": "Polaczek",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T22:07:33",
"content": "Troll function FTW! Nice job man, really neat project. I agree with matt, it would be a cool toy too!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284713",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T22:21:32",
"content": "That is seriously awesome. I can’t imagine the complexity of doing this on an FPGA.I love the Troll face, cracked me up and it was an awesome effect.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284719",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T22:44:47",
"content": "lol trolled",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284735",
"author": "Timmah",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T23:30:02",
"content": "forgive me because I dont know how to read, but did they code this in pure verilog, or are they using a “soft-core” fpga design where they only have to program an asm virtual “microcontroller” ? Either way good job.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284745",
"author": "dude",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T23:53:51",
"content": "I bet if someone made a $10 fpga on a breakout board that was stand alone. this would be on alot of them.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284756",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T00:14:51",
"content": "Falling sand game on and FPGAWhat?How on earth do you guys keep on making horrible mistakes like this?Who proofreads your stuff?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284760",
"author": "d",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T00:20:04",
"content": "do you really need an ESD mat while using the DE2 board? we never use any protection in school (mostly doing programming over USB etc).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284767",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T00:45:31",
"content": "Sand particles game on a FPGA: COOL!What’s next? Sand particles game on a GPU? Oh, wait.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284783",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T01:22:39",
"content": "@Tom: you do, thanks. Fixed!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284968",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T13:29:51",
"content": "This is based on a rip of the rip of the old ‘powder’ simulation toy from stanislaw k skowronek I think.(which also used by AMD to showcase their opencl hardware acceleration at one point)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcU89Td53Gg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284995",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T15:22:18",
"content": "@Mike, I wish I could say it was my pleasure to do so!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285166",
"author": "chris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T23:29:13",
"content": "Do want this on Android! The Physics game mentioned is still available to download and is much fun.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "296142",
"author": "zEX0dEx",
"timestamp": "2011-01-04T16:16:34",
"content": "Belarusian Guys Rock’s Falling sand game on an Xilinx FPGA with New Year Theme :)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFye6Kgpd0wThx for great work, we had much fun!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,316.778531
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/15/developing-a-sega-game-gear-flash-cartridge/
|
Developing A Sega Game Gear Flash Cartridge
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"handhelds hacks",
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"game gear",
"master system",
"sega",
"sms"
] |
[Gerry O’Brien] tackled his most recent project,
designing a flash ROM cartridge for the Sega Game Gear
, with great success. Above you can see the test rig he used to reverse engineer the communications between an original ROM chip and the circuit board that it came on. He removed the chip, soldered a ZIF socket to the pads, then used a DIP socket as an adapter for that chip. Connected to each pin is a test lead for a logic analyzer. That’s a heck of a lot of channels to decipher!
It turns out that the cartridges use Integrated Mapping (does anyone have a link explaining this?) so dropping in a flash memory chip is not an option; you need a memory bank controller. [Gerry’s] solution to this issue is twofold: you can etch your own board with a controller chip and ZIF socket for the flash chip, or you can modify a Sega Master System cartridge to use as an adapter board. We’ve got pictures of both methods after the break, as well as his five instructional videos walking us through the fabrication process.
This isn’t [Gerry’s] first time working with flash cartridges. We looked at
his work with Game Boy ROMS
earlier in the year.
Here’s an etched adapter board. The IDC plug is used for testing with an oscilloscope and logic analyzer.
Here’s a much more compact adapter made from a Sega Master System cartridge.
Check out
[Gerry’s] youtube channel
where you’ll find his instructional videos.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YY-Yt31U3Oo&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZZvtaxkz58&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHtsm6M8uDE&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJ8TXklpKXA&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5pI5iraq9A&w=470]
| 25
| 23
|
[
{
"comment_id": "284623",
"author": "Ben Ryves",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T17:50:26",
"content": "Excellent work. :-)More information about the two main mappers used on the Sega Master System (and by extension the Game Gear) can be found on the SMS Power! wiki:http://www.smspower.org/Development/Mappers",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284628",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T18:23:04",
"content": "there should be a soldering world championship O_o",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284633",
"author": "matt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T18:44:37",
"content": "If only the cartridge slot on the Game Gear wasn’t so flaky. Anyone else have that problem? Mine wouldn’t run if you just pushed the cartridge all the way down, you had to pull it out of the slot a tiny bit in order for it to work.Sadly, I found my old Game Gear at my parents’ house, and I couldn’t get it to work. RIP Matt’s Game Gear, 1992-2010.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284638",
"author": "Cas",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:05:38",
"content": "Thats pretty epic soldering.Last time i used my GG the screen was going funny but i might see if i can fix it for a bit of nostalgia gaming.Cleaning the cart contacts with an earbud or the classic blowing on it always fixed the problems for me, don’t you just miss the old skool gaming :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284650",
"author": "NatureTM",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:12:36",
"content": "Really impressive craftsmanship and documentation. It’s pretty inspiring.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284652",
"author": "losinggeneration",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:23:20",
"content": "@matt Is that an accurate time of death? I’d wager that it died sometime earlier since you “just found” it :) BTW, I look forward to seeing the 8-bit computer finished :)Now, I really want to build one of these. Then continue learning the hardware & Z80 ASM to try to make some silly demos (and make sure they run on real hardware and not just emulated hardware.)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284653",
"author": "Ben Ryves",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:24:43",
"content": "matt: The Game Gear has fairly poor-quality capacitors in it. If you desolder them you’ll be treated to the lovely fishy smell of leaked electrolyte, and replacing them should restore the sound and video to its original glory.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284660",
"author": "losinggeneration",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:40:15",
"content": "@Ben Ryves Oh yeah, that’s another thing I need to do. I hear it does wonders.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284664",
"author": "matt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:55:53",
"content": "@Ben Ryves @losinggeneration I’ll have to try that one of these days. My Game Gear was definitely working in 2008, not sure if I’ve tried since then. I also have an original Game Boy (got it in 1990) that still works, but the LCD has lots of dead lines. I hear that’s fixable too.also, the Labyrinth Zone music from Sonic 1 on the Game Gear has to be in the running for best chiptune ever.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284665",
"author": "Ely_1974",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T20:16:53",
"content": "The intro “Montage” in his part 1 video is Bad Ass. A great tribute to one of my favorite hand helds.I guess I know what I’m doing over the holidays. :)Great Job!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284670",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T20:25:00",
"content": "Anyone know if the game gear screen is reuseable (ie pinout, yada yada). i’m afraid to open mine up unless i know for sure – it works as good as day one still.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284671",
"author": "losinggeneration",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T20:33:43",
"content": "@matt Yep, I fixed a Game Boy that was given to me with many dead columns. All I used was a hair dryer and an eraser.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284750",
"author": "nah!",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T00:09:37",
"content": "i hate soldering smd spiders (smd chips wired to a dip socked)i prefer plates like thishttp://www.tme.eu/katalog_pics/b/f/8/bf81f1f87e66af8c487588df57053f21/ms-dip_smd5.jpgalot less fucking around",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284892",
"author": "McSquid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T07:44:10",
"content": "@MattDon’t give up! There are plenty of tuts out there for repairing seemingly dead game gears. Every one saved keeps them from extinction a little longer! I had to replace a cap and resolder a few cartridge connectors on mine but it is alive!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284939",
"author": "Adam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T11:23:39",
"content": "@nah!I prefer these type of things:http://www.futurlec.com/SMD_Adapters.shtml",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284967",
"author": "PocketBrain",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T13:29:33",
"content": "Nice dramatic intro music… from a Nintendo game (Killer Instinct)!Maybe I should look into resurrecting my defective GG now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "288354",
"author": "Alexandre Souza",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T15:44:52",
"content": "Lots of channels??? The chip has 28 pins, you have a pair for vcc/gnd, so you have 26 pins to connect to the logic analyser…the cheapest SERIOUS logic analyser you can buy has at least double that. The only serious thing you can buy with less than 32 channels is the Logic from Salae. But aside automatic decoding of serial protocols, you can have an HP16500C for way less. Mine has 136 channels :) And a 40 channel pattern generator. And a two-channel 100MHz scope :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293883",
"author": "The_Dude",
"timestamp": "2010-12-31T20:12:17",
"content": "Killer instinct wasn’t a nintendo game. It was a rare game. Nintendo just happened to own them at the time. Fanboys know nothing of beaurocracy or legalities. Look at what nintendo did to them since. stole all of their ip’s and did nothing with them. way to go nintendo. “let’s make another game about a stereotypicaly racist fat plumber and forget the bad-assery of killer instinct”. That’s right I make up my own words (and mispell already known ones).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "314809",
"author": "James",
"timestamp": "2011-01-26T09:59:54",
"content": "I bought a 15-in-1 Game Gear cartridge when I was on holiday once in 1998, and I wondered how the guy at the shop managed to produce these… It just looked like a normal cartridge except the metal star screw was missing from the back – was just plain plastic where that normally is. How did they make those carts??? It looked far better than either of the options above. It had a menu to choose between roms.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "384328",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2011-04-22T01:57:10",
"content": "Those Bootleg Carts use a custom mapper chip that was implemented using a CPLD chip. This allowed the use of larger memory sized flash chips to hold more than your standard 512Kb sized GG game. Although most of those types of carts used EEPROM memory.A hobbyist on the SMSPower.org website has just built his own Mapper chip in the same manner, by using a CPLD chip. However he has not yet posted the code for implementing the mapping. Hopefully in the future he will do so. From the looks of it, Gerry has been following this matter closely but I think he is busy with other projects.Here is the Thread from SMSPower.orghttp://www.smspower.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13014:)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "384346",
"author": "nova_tech",
"timestamp": "2011-04-22T02:55:35",
"content": "He is working on a Neo Geo Pocket color Flash cartridge project with game programmer “Flavor”.Some pretty cool stuff this guy Flavor is doing, as always.See the details here:http://ngpc.freeplaytech.com/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "469314",
"author": "nova_tech",
"timestamp": "2011-10-01T19:30:26",
"content": "Gerry & Flavor recently finished the Flash cartridge for the SNK “Neo Geo Pocket color”.Flavor is now selling these cartridges along with a USB Linker & software.You can order them from Flavors webpage.http://ngpc.freeplaytech.com/http://www.digital-circuitry.com/Projects_NGPC.htmWay to go Gents!!Nova",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "511261",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2011-11-17T19:16:19",
"content": "Mhh… The instructions how to build a DIY-Flash-Cartridge are always welcome. But I am a bit disappointed, that Gerry did not publish one for the Neo Geo. Seems like he is now more willing to make some profit, rather than giving something to the community…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "511293",
"author": "Alexandre Souza",
"timestamp": "2011-11-17T19:43:14",
"content": "Anonymous, you’re always free to roll your own, and give the schematics free for the comunity :) Why not pick the soldering iron up, instead of blindly (and anonymously) complaining? :o)",
"parent_id": "511261",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "739658",
"author": "Gerry_MAN",
"timestamp": "2012-08-17T17:16:56",
"content": "Also just to point out……I’m not making any money off of that project whatsoever. I teamed up with Flavor under the conditions that I did not want to have any part of the selling or profits. All my work on The NEO GEO FLASHMASTA project was completely volunteer Pro-bono.You should not make accusations when you don’t know the facts. :)I’m still totally down with listing my own projects open source.Cheers Folks,-Gerry O’Brien",
"parent_id": "511261",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
}
] | 1,760,377,317.00097
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/15/reprapped-transitors/
|
RepRapped Transistors
|
Devlin Thyne
|
[
"News"
] |
[
"3d printing",
"makerbot",
"reprap",
"transistor"
] |
[
Mr. Kim
] and [John Sarik] made a presentation(
pdf
) at last weekend’s
Botacon
conference on how they made organic field-effect transistors (OFETs). A wooden RepRap, the fancifully named
Unicorn
from Makerbot (or printed from
Thingiverse
), hacked felt pen, a handful of chemicals, and a couple of pieces of lab equipment were needed to print (plot) out transistors. We were unable to attend the conference, so this is what we inferred from the slides. Silver ink is printed onto a glass slide to form the gate regions, cured and partially masked-off. A layer of CP1 Resin is spin-coated onto the slide to form the dielectric barrier between the gate and the semiconductor, the drain, and source regions. Silver ink is once again used, this time to print out the drain and source regions. The last thing printed is P3HT dissolved in toluene to form the semiconductor region. It would be interesting to see this process modified so that all coatings and curing can be done without removing the slide from the printer.
| 23
| 22
|
[
{
"comment_id": "284584",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:13:53",
"content": "RepRapped Transitors",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "284610",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T17:03:24",
"content": "@Jeditlan,good eye. Devlin’s not in yet so I’ve updated it.",
"parent_id": "284584",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "284598",
"author": "ENKI-][",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:39:05",
"content": "Next step: circuit cubes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284600",
"author": "markaeric",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:41:12",
"content": "Ooooh… DIY ICs sounds awesome!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284601",
"author": "kabukicho2001",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:43:52",
"content": "conductive plastic? how do u do that one?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284608",
"author": "Devin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:59:40",
"content": "@kabukicho2001What do you mean how do you do it? You just make the plastic. Certain kinds of plastic are conductive.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284613",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T17:24:11",
"content": "Wow, that is very interesting. If they can increase the density of the transistors enough maybe they could start printing logic controllers for more printing machines….scary stuff.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284624",
"author": "Christopher Mitchell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T17:56:04",
"content": "You caught “transitors” but missed “oganic”. :) I think Hackaday needs an official proofreader (see also “ohmmeter” vs “voltmeter”).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284636",
"author": "Ryan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T18:50:25",
"content": "Just out of interest, does anyone else not consider extrusion to be a very exciting way to print?It seems to me like there are too many hard limits of this method. Resolution and surface smoothness will always be limited and there aren’t really any options for high resolution color printing.It seems to me like inkjet systems that print solvents into layers of powder are just an outright better technology. If hacking printers is impractical I’m sure that many of the newer half watt blu-ray diodes can perform laser sintering fairly cheaply.I forsee inkjets and plastic powder where circuits can be laid down between layers. There are even inkjets that print plastic and skip the powder outright. Either way I can’t see this extrusion thing really becoming worthwhile.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284639",
"author": "Leif-KC8RWR",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:08:17",
"content": "Interesting but I looked it up and Wow… $315 for 250mg of P3HT. I sure hope this stuff finds it’s way down to us mere mortal hobbyists at home some day.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284640",
"author": "dcroy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:09:36",
"content": "@ryanepson has successfully printed circuit boards using a commercial inkjet printer and conductive ink up to twenty layers thickthat was 6 years ago",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284643",
"author": "Leif-KC8RWR",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:10:27",
"content": "Then again, I suppose the amount used per transistor is really really small….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284658",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:34:00",
"content": "@Christopher Mitchell- idk, i had read ‘organic’, but i had just woken up. it surprises me how Hackaday has posted 2-3 hacks before i wake up, when i sleep like 4 hours.i would like to print with the Magic Shell ice cream chocolate that hardens when it cools.. and some way to rapidly cool it, without disturbing the liquid. i think LN2 would be more effective than a peltier in larger chocolate models",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284675",
"author": "Jeri Ellsworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T20:48:10",
"content": "This technique is great news for hobbyists. I’m so excited about this.-Jer",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284710",
"author": "Brock_Lee",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T22:13:09",
"content": "Wow, this is great!For a long time I’ve had this idea to build devices with many of the non heat producing components printed directly to the inside of the enclosure instead of taking up extra real-estate on PCB’s.This looks promising.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284778",
"author": "Colin Wallace",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T01:17:00",
"content": "I’ve been dreaming of designing my own ICs since I was 12. It seems like I might actually get to do that someday!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284782",
"author": "alex",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T01:21:42",
"content": "…skynet has humble beginnings…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284845",
"author": "cknopp",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T04:58:06",
"content": "Where can I find more about the Epson 20-layer printing method? This looks promising, and I think that this community is perfect for its development.How would YOU do it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285063",
"author": "Vik Olliver",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T18:56:25",
"content": "Wow. I guess with a bit of novel spraying and bed heating technology (and heated beds on RepRaps are not uncommon) this might become possible without moving the item off the deposition bed.There has been work done on fitting inkjet heads to RepRaps too, which might be able to utilise that Epson technology mentioned above. Links welcome.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285170",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T23:37:23",
"content": "this could be interesting if a way can be found to make thin enough layers to form memristors.imagine the possibilities, you could print non volatile memory and semiconductors, resistors etc on the same substrate.iirc there is a way to make these using silver ions moving through a pair of substrates (think lithium ion cell tech here) and carbon compounds, the resulting resistance versus applied dv/dt resembles a “bow tie” graph.on a slightly different note, if anyone wants to homebrew resistors a simple way to do this is Durite bicycle repair cement and graphite lubricating powder- my own experiments suggest a highly variable density alterable by ratio of cement versus graphite.please mail me on mandoline ant cwgsy dont net(decrud the address :-) )",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "301325",
"author": "borg",
"timestamp": "2011-01-11T15:18:25",
"content": "machines building machines! thats an abomination!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "363665",
"author": "Daniel",
"timestamp": "2011-03-21T01:17:55",
"content": "An abomination of coolness !But yeh, its gonna happen, thats a given.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "363666",
"author": "Daniel",
"timestamp": "2011-03-21T01:20:27",
"content": "Oh, and machines already build machines, we arent hammering together ipods or anything like that ..Reprappery is like .. robots making robots",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,316.880817
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/15/update-6809-computing/
|
Update: 6809 Computing
|
Chris Nelson
|
[
"classic hacks",
"computer hacks"
] |
[
"6809",
"8 bit"
] |
[Matt Sarnoff] is designing his own
8-bit computer
from scratch. This means not only designing the hardware but also writing his own kernel and custom libraries. Since we
last saw this 8-bit machine
hes added both video and sound output which has allowed him to start developing some software for his computer (see it play Conways game of life after the break).
Sticking with the retro theme of his computer he uses a TMS9918 chip to output the video and a YM2149 for audio. The YM2149 was the audio chip used in the
Atari ST
allowing him to play songs generated for that system with a little bit of hacking to account for the fact that the Atari ST ran at 8MHz where his
Motorola 6809
only runs at 2MHz.
Via [
Retro Thing
]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwScZU9qwbk&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TLg3MAHWCg&w=470]
| 26
| 26
|
[
{
"comment_id": "284551",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T14:19:33",
"content": "Wow, pretty amazing. Can’t imagine how long that would take to design and complete.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284559",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T14:42:01",
"content": "6809 all software developers should be REQUIRED to learn programming on that.Why the UNI’s are dumb and do not force programming students to start with assembler and dealing with small processors FIRST blows my mind. it’s why we have a large number of brain dead CS degrees that cant program their way out of a paper bag.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284560",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T14:44:22",
"content": "http://drc.ohiolink.edu/handle/2374.OX/15230for a design using 5 of the processors together for multiprocessor goodness.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284567",
"author": "Wreck_Diver",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T15:08:37",
"content": "@fartfaceI agree 100%. I learned on that microprocessor many many years ago, and it made me a much better programmer. Its a great place to start!BTW: That is one nice project up there!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284571",
"author": "adam clifford",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T15:30:36",
"content": "@fartfaceI agree totaly too!Started on pics using assembler, then did c, c++ at uni ( electronics degree) and Now im doing c# with websites and ce devices – better programmer because of it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284581",
"author": "techjoker",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:01:31",
"content": "That’s not a hack! It’s purpose built, has no duct tape and no Arduino!/jokeAwesome project some day I may actually have time to do something like that",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284603",
"author": "cgmark",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:50:21",
"content": "Another good chip that isn’t looked at often is the MC908 from freescale. It is sold in dip format so easy to breadboard, comes with a bootloader installed , only need a serial port/usb port and crystal to start using it. They are also cheaper than most of the other options, about $3 for one that does usb.Freescale is also good about free samples.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284605",
"author": "Nightstar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:53:16",
"content": "I agree! Learn Assembly first. It instilled writing tight efficient code.I loved the 6809 CPU. Did a ton of products on it for the RS Color Computer. Wish the Coco had used the TI chip instead of the 6847 video chip.I think Hatachi had a faster version of the 6809. Dont remember the speed but much faster than the stock 2MHZ Motorola version.Wish the guy the best on this project!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284611",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T17:11:55",
"content": "wow i started a project like this but sadly never finished >:",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284615",
"author": "ngnlabs",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T17:32:31",
"content": "Very, very cool project. Takes me back to learning 6502 ASM and being drilled on fetch/execute cycles.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284619",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T17:38:13",
"content": "@Nightstar: Hitachi 63C09, 3.5MHzhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hitachi_63096809 was the nicest, most orthogonal 8-bitter there was. Strange that Motorola decided to develop the 16-bitter-but-with-an-8-bit bus 68008 at the same time. This chip also had a nice instruction set for hackers so the 6809 was pretty marginalised even back when it came out. (I happened to learn 68k assembly at uni on VME machines.)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284620",
"author": "Nightstar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T17:41:56",
"content": "I think Motorola wanted to have a set of instruction that had as little exception as possible. The old 8088 was the worse ofender of this and the 68K was the best. But still have a warm spot for the 6809 and e variant.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284630",
"author": "d3c4f",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T18:27:03",
"content": "I agree with fartface, and will add GREAT PROJECT!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284635",
"author": "nUBER",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T18:49:02",
"content": "Im dizzy from shaky video!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284642",
"author": "Riazm",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T19:10:11",
"content": "How would one get started with programming their own kernel?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284698",
"author": "Stan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T21:40:04",
"content": "This is where I started – On a CoCo.Get it to run OS-9 that would be cool!I agree learning this way make better programmers.I know programmers who haven’t got a clue as to what goes on under the hood. And don’t want to know because they don’t feel its important.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284702",
"author": "Marshillboy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T21:52:48",
"content": "To paraphrase Carl Sagan:If you wish to make an 8-bit computer from scratch, you must first invent the universe.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284704",
"author": "bootnecklad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T21:59:42",
"content": "I’d best hurry up and finish my TTL processor!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284722",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T23:00:11",
"content": "i also agree fartfaceactually i just wanted to type out fartface",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284724",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T23:04:07",
"content": "Anyone knows some video chip like TMS9918 but more available?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284752",
"author": "derwin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T00:12:26",
"content": "I really like the music the Game of Life generates.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284918",
"author": "cgmark",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T09:25:05",
"content": "I recall an interview with some senior intel engineers where they were commenting about the lack of people in the field that knew how to create and program processors and what was really going on behind the scenes. I think people are too quick to overlook some of the more basic circuits and are always looking for a dedicated chip with the functions they want. That is great as long as their are chips that have the functions you want, but what do those same people do when those premade circuits aren’t sold ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284950",
"author": "MrTaco",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T11:56:55",
"content": "We did a whole bunch of assembler stuff at uni.I’m still a “brain dead CS degree” though :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285168",
"author": "Simon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T23:33:45",
"content": "I freakin’ love those YM2149s.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285264",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T03:31:18",
"content": "@Derwin: thanks for pointing that out, I had my speakers off the first time I watched it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "6466219",
"author": "Jim Kirtland",
"timestamp": "2022-04-28T18:04:02",
"content": "I agree, the 6809 running OS-9 was a great combination. I wored awhile with a 8080 S-100 bus that was in Kilobaud (?) magazine. The 6809 as was easier then the 8080.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,316.614671
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/17/haptic-feedback-for-the-blind/
|
Haptic Feedback For The Blind
|
Chris Nelson
|
[
"Lifehacks",
"Wearable Hacks"
] |
[
"haptic feedback"
] |
[polymythic] Is helping the blind see with his haptic feedback device called
HALO
. At the heart of the device is an Arduino Mega 2560 which senses objects with a few ultrasonic range finders and then relays the information back to the user using some vibration motors from old cell phones. The user can feel the distance by the frequency at which the motor pulses. The faster the motors pulse the closer an object is.
This kind of sensing is something that it can be applied to pretty much any
sensor
allowing the user to feel something that might be otherwise
invisible
. While haptic feedback is
nothing new
its good to see continuing work with new sensors and different setups.
| 32
| 32
|
[
{
"comment_id": "285690",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:02:37",
"content": "Great idea, I like it! :)I always save these motors “just in case” when scrapping a phone, usually they just unplug but some are soldered.if you have a lot of phones surplus which are broken then its worth going on a salvaging mission as the LEDs on the backlight(s) and OLED panel can often be repurposed, and many Nokias have a nice colour LCD with plenty of documentation.what about using infrared?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285703",
"author": "pRtkL xLr8r",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:36:34",
"content": "Geez, how about giving that poor dude’s forehead some oxygen?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285706",
"author": "logan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:39:49",
"content": "zeropointmodule, polymythic is using Parallax PING))) ultrasonic sensors. they are very easy to use and can sense things up to about 10 feet away, much more usefull and less limited than infrared. The only downside is that they cant do well with corners, like if half of the signal hits a corner, and im not sure about rounded irregularly shaped objects, i havent used mine in a while.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285709",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:42:22",
"content": "This is awesome. Also worth noting that its been proven mainly by a blind guy doing it and being able to teach people to do it, that humans are capable of range finding with verbal clicks (like bats).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285712",
"author": "nashville jack",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:53:22",
"content": "as a retired firefighter, I could see that invention “built in” to a fire fighter helmet.good idea! Keep up the good work….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285715",
"author": "m d",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T00:06:47",
"content": "this might be of interest too:http://www.esenseproject.org/downloads.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285717",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T00:11:18",
"content": "guide dog is much cooler and useful",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285719",
"author": "Adam Outler",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T00:15:58",
"content": "Use the force!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285720",
"author": "Adam Outler",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T00:16:24",
"content": "Feedback that is.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285723",
"author": "razorconcepts",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T00:23:57",
"content": "Cool, I’m working on a device that uses the same idea. I just can’t find blind people to help me develop it…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285729",
"author": "highnoon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T00:36:38",
"content": "Sherman, set the way back machine for star date 5630.7 (aka October 1968). This reminded me of the sensor dress from the original Star Trek episode “Is there in Truth No Beauty?”Funny how so many technologies were dreamed up back then and are now realities or on the brink. Still waiting for the transporter to save me from TSA pat downs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285730",
"author": "Egonis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T00:39:05",
"content": "This is a great concept.Why not refine, and kit this? I totally believe that it could turn into something.This is an area of research that really doesn’t get enough attention, and making this more accessible to those who are blind, and usually very, very broke would be a great benefit.therian: Although a guide dog is cool, it’s very difficult to get one, and can take years.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285733",
"author": "Tachikoma",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T00:58:45",
"content": "very cool idea!hope it develops into something practical for the blind.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285744",
"author": "Xtremegamer",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T02:15:56",
"content": "well why not hack up the kinect thus deep-sight for blind-people , they could be allowed to drive a car then …if you overlay the depth matrix with a live feed you’ll have low-res eye’s only thing left to would be how te implement it ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285751",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T02:28:39",
"content": "part of brain that interpret signals on retina is physically located close to part of brain that respond for tong. Sometimes signals misfire to wrong parts and with training one part can take job of the other. So in theory tong (or some other body parts)can be used as retina, we just need small enough electrodes matrix for any usable resolution",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285754",
"author": "Egonis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T02:36:45",
"content": "Xtremegamer: Brilliant!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285838",
"author": "turn.self.off",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T07:34:22",
"content": "Reminds me of something i read where used a magnetometer and a bunch of vibration engines on a belt to continually show where north was. Over time the wearer developed a better ability to navigate inside a city simply by how north changed at each turn taken.One could even develops something of a “danger sense” using this, by placing the sensors and vibrators at the back of the head.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285879",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T10:36:06",
"content": "The kinect uses way too much power for it to be a wearable device (for now)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285898",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T12:29:42",
"content": "They’ve been trying this for many many years and yet it’s always stuck at the concept level it seems, I wonder why.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285901",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T12:38:19",
"content": "I did a quick google patent search, this was patented in 1988.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285908",
"author": "BramJ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T13:18:49",
"content": "I also built something similar like this a few years ago, but then implemented into a glove.there were plans to put a RFID reader into the glove so that the user could find specific objects.but we never got further then a ugly prototype.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285917",
"author": "polymythic",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T13:47:58",
"content": "All, thanks for the suggestions. You guys rock! Honestly, I appreciate all the ideas. I had noted using the kinect several times over on (http://www.instructables.com/id/Haptic-Feedback-device-for-the-Visually-Impaired/), and will post a bit more when I get my blog post fleshed out.. I think the power issues can be solved for sure.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285956",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T16:49:52",
"content": "hmm, sparkfun have some nice magnetic sensors (HMC5843) ?@logan, yeah i realise ultrasonic sensor are more versatile but draw a fair amount of power.perhaps a single transducer set with a phased array circuit to steer the beam would be more useful.(this technique is used for medical ultrasound)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285965",
"author": "sueastside",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T17:47:49",
"content": "Very interesting, but the 360° peripheral vision is unnatural to process for humans, more practical would be using the extra feedback to increase resolution in a more localized area (right in front of you, like normal vision).Use of the kinect’s depth camera connected to an electrode matrix exposed to a large part of skin (belly or back) could provide enough resolution to see at least object outlines.And just to make a joke; Imagine seeing the world like a teletubby!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286020",
"author": "qwerty",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T20:01:23",
"content": "I think a guide dog and this project would be mutually exclusive: dogs don’t like ultrasound.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286022",
"author": "polymythic",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T20:07:58",
"content": "Qwerty, you’re probably right. Dogs hear up to 60khz, and the PING))) sends 40khz. I have not really tried with my dog around, but may be interesting to see how she reacts. Good observation.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286065",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T22:50:46",
"content": "Is the user also deaf, black band? Binaural generated sounds would be better than vibes.Tommy can you see me.You know where to put the ball.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286067",
"author": "Kaboof",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T22:59:45",
"content": "@sueastside: 360° peripheral vision is unnatural? But you know you have ears which offer exactly that. Gamers love surround sound headsets for providing natural 360° “vision”… I’m pretty sure you easily adapt to this…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286096",
"author": "Dizzey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T23:57:17",
"content": "@therianI remember reading about an experiment a few years ago. Where they connected a camera to electrodes on a tounge. They tried it on a guy with full vision (blinde fold ofcourse) and he stated that after 12 hours he started to “se”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287075",
"author": "Aret",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T00:43:39",
"content": "Kinect depth sensing: based on infrared. Probably unreliable outdoors, as sunlight contains much infrared.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "296267",
"author": "willfarrell",
"timestamp": "2011-01-04T20:14:48",
"content": "Umm, sorry to tell you this but this idea is a clone of a more advanced version featured on Daily Planet (Discovery Channel) almost 2 year ago. The idea was originally done as a Fourth Year Design Project, which placed second, at the University of Waterloo. Looking forward to seeing future versions.Note: There are several patents pending on the design presented at the UW Symposium.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "620804",
"author": "Gardening Birmingham",
"timestamp": "2012-04-04T19:09:08",
"content": "What a great idea. I really hope it proves a success. It could improve the quality of life for many people.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,317.141756
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/17/rich-decibels-kequencer/
|
Rich Decibel’s Kequencer
|
Joseph Thibodeau
|
[
"digital audio hacks",
"Musical Hacks"
] |
[
"blip",
"bloop",
"chip",
"sequencer",
"synth"
] |
It’s totally excellent when a simple concept results in something inspiring and
fun
. [Rich Decibel]’s
Kequencer
is a good example, starting off as many projects do: “I had an idea the other day and I couldn’t decide if it was good or not so I just built it to find out.” Be still our hackable hearts!
[Rich] built this sleek little sequencer from scratch and while the design may not seem very novel to begin with–eight square wave oscillators with on/off switches and pitch knobs, played in sequence–but the beauty of it is in the nuances of interaction and the potential for further hacking. From watching the video you can see how the controls can be used in very interesting ways to create and mutate adorable chippy tone patterns. Check it out after the crossfade.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucdcsxbLXME&w=470]
Having been based off of [Nicolas Collins]’ work (as are all the projects on [Rich]’s blog so far) this instrument is ripe for hacking: the circuits are simple and easy to modify, so the addition of more complex (or just more) modules is a cinch. There’s always the
Korg Monotron schematics
to give you some ideas. Maybe incorporate some
digital synthesis
into the mix. Or get crazy and include some noise generators and envelopes into the design for some percussive synth possibilities. Step aside,
Roland
!
In all seriousness, given the quality of [Rich Decibel]’s work we’re interested to see what he comes up with in the future. And if you haven’t already, check out [Collins]’
Handmade Electronic Music
.
A lot of it is review for the seasoned hacker but it is chock full of excellent know-how and fundamental building blocks for audio electronics. Our in-house how-to on
building synths
is also a great place to start
| 14
| 14
|
[
{
"comment_id": "285643",
"author": "alex",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T21:30:28",
"content": "I honestly need a new pair of pants. Awesome.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285648",
"author": "Gregory Strike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T21:43:16",
"content": "Fun. Love the wood box too!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285667",
"author": "NatureTM",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T22:28:44",
"content": "It’s pretty impressive how much good stuff you can get out of something so simple. I’ve been working on a synth of my own. When it’s finished, we’ll have to jam. :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285700",
"author": "PocketBrain",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:25:32",
"content": "I would have put the scan speed knob up top, in line with the sequence LEDs. Seems more intuitive that way. Even though it is another frequency, it serves a different purpose from the other eight knobs.Extremely cool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285702",
"author": "nah!",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:35:49",
"content": "my head hurts",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285705",
"author": "bdav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:38:52",
"content": "This is one of those hacks which is mesmerising for some intangible reason. Love it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285728",
"author": "BlackWolf",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T00:36:25",
"content": "Awesome hack, just pure brilliance.…sounds like a lost Owl City album!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285738",
"author": "me",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T01:19:34",
"content": "wow that is incredible. huge potential for fun and creativity!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285741",
"author": "polymorph",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T01:30:01",
"content": "it’d be an idea to add seperate 3.5mm jacks for each of the oscillators, so you could use it as a modular synth as well… you could create some very complex sounds",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285753",
"author": "blip",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T02:30:15",
"content": "When he was setting the values, I though oh great another person messing about with signals and calling it “music”, then he started running. Boy was i wrong. This is lovely!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285912",
"author": "Nemo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T13:31:31",
"content": "for a demo of the instrument, that was quite good music",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285925",
"author": "Gösta",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T13:59:01",
"content": "I love this!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286037",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T21:45:08",
"content": "Yeah, needs a headphone jack.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287053",
"author": "Frank",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:27:16",
"content": "“crossfade”!? ffs…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,317.472293
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/17/the-heinz-automato/
|
The Heinz Automato
|
Chris Nelson
|
[
"News",
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"co2",
"ketchup",
"rc",
"robot"
] |
[Bill Fienup] and [Barry Kudrowitz]’s robots,
The Automatos,
have been leaving a sticky path of destruction all over the internet. Their sole purpose: to crap ketchup. They accomplish this feat by dumping a CO2 cartridge into a ketchup bottle at the push of a button, leading to some pretty awesome results. While the details are a little sparse it appears that they are using RC cars for the base and a small air gun CO2 cartridge to push the ketchup. The latest version aka the Atuomato 4 appears to be multi-actuated and can shoot more than once for maximum ketchup proliferation. See some videos of it in action after the break.
[youtube=
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcniyQYFU6M&feature=related
&w=470]
[youtube=
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_C3D0rcFXrY&feature=related
&w=470]
| 27
| 26
|
[
{
"comment_id": "285614",
"author": "andar_b",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T20:09:37",
"content": "What a mess!Sillier than heck, but it’s kinda fun. It’d be better with an automatic stopper, or something like those ‘no mess’ bottles that only open once a certain pressure level is reached. Currently, the spray continues as long as the bottle is pressurized, long after the CO2 flow stops.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285615",
"author": "Luke",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T20:13:15",
"content": "I can see no reason these should not be hooked up to the innards of a paint ball gun for maximum ketchup",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285617",
"author": "Torque",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T20:14:49",
"content": "Perfect post for lunch!Now If we can just up the ante, I’d love to see a more automat-ic with burger/dog tracking technology and voice control…“hey, easy ketchup over here!”And I wanna see it draw a HaD logo .)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285635",
"author": "d3c4f",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T21:04:19",
"content": "Fantastic!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285640",
"author": "Kaboof",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T21:22:00",
"content": "ROFL I really laughed at that.. I mean it’s an.. awesome-awkward idea with an awkward-awesome result and looks really silly :D@Torque: Based on the provided videos I would assume the “easy ketchup over here” robot would leave a red mess all over you :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285641",
"author": "andres",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T21:23:34",
"content": "haha, those are so adorable! i want 20 of them even though i hate ketchup with a passion.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285649",
"author": "signal7",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T21:45:01",
"content": "Amazing. CO2 at room temperature is under roughly 800psi of pressure if it’s stored in a liquid form(most small CO2 canisters do this). I would never have tried this – I would have expected the bottle to explode before anything else happened!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "291316",
"author": "Bill fienup",
"timestamp": "2010-12-27T14:33:00",
"content": "We regulate the pressure of course. :)",
"parent_id": "285649",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "285655",
"author": "cpmike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T21:58:43",
"content": "what is the point of those spinning arms? it almost seems as if those are a visible expression of a pump motor running, pressurizing the bottle. plus the way it dribbles out at the end makes me think this is not CO2..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285664",
"author": "wololo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T22:16:44",
"content": "@cpmikethe arms are probably a bit “tongue-in-cheek”bend over your toilet and clench your arms and fists the next time you get explosive diarrhea",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285665",
"author": "kernelcode",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T22:26:35",
"content": "@cpmikeI think the ‘droop’ might be due to the elasticity of the bottle itself, the fact it sputters seems to suggest that there’s plenty of pressure, just no ketchup.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285669",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T22:36:33",
"content": "McDonalds should have invented this years ago!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285670",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T22:38:31",
"content": "Needs more ketchup.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285688",
"author": "sean",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T22:56:41",
"content": "WIN!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285701",
"author": "svofski",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:28:50",
"content": "hahahahah i lolled irl so hard!!! 200% win.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285708",
"author": "bdav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:41:03",
"content": "I’m embarrassed that I find them quite so funny, sat here laughing like a madman.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285713",
"author": "Rob Wentworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T00:00:26",
"content": "Ketchup? This one squirts lead, and it flies!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59ttSwYNspw",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285756",
"author": "-HMav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T02:53:14",
"content": "I showed this to my son and he just about died laughing. Great build, although a little low on the WAF.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285757",
"author": "Dingo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T02:56:51",
"content": "Apparently they were on Martha Stewart in 2008?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBnAhrRnZtM",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285793",
"author": "Craig",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T05:16:00",
"content": "@Torque: Based on the provided videos I would assume the “easy ketchup over here” robot would leave a red mess all over you :DNah, should just leave you red in the face. :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285819",
"author": "mjrippe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T06:39:47",
"content": "When the Automato 4 did a face plant and sprayed a red arc I totally lost it!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285902",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T12:40:37",
"content": "WOWBut if we suppress weapons like this then the french fries have already won..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285913",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T13:39:26",
"content": "This is the kind of hack that I love. Completely original, a solution to a problem that doesn’t really exist in the first place. Plus the whole thing just screams of fun. It’s the sort of crazy idea that you come up with after a few beers at the pub. Thanks for making my day.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285938",
"author": "Ben R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T15:13:44",
"content": "I was surprised to see (and enjoy) this clip of the inventors with one of their Ketchup Crappers on Martha Stewart.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBnAhrRnZtM&feature=player_embedded",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285949",
"author": "Entropy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T16:11:02",
"content": "At first I thought: “To what end?”Then I thought: “Who cares? It shoots ketchup!”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286028",
"author": "the clerk",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T20:49:03",
"content": "all i can think of while watching this was “IM HELPING IM HELPING!!11!”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "289769",
"author": "j s",
"timestamp": "2010-12-24T14:21:39",
"content": "One of the people on the team is a grad student!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,317.418585
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/17/home-built-knitting-machine/
|
Home Built Knitting Machine
|
Caleb Kraft
|
[
"Wearable Hacks"
] |
[
"knitting"
] |
Wow, we knew it wouldn’t be too long before we would see a
fully automated home built knitting machine
show up. We recently posted a hack where people were
emulating the keyboard input of a commercial knitting machine
, and that was pretty awesome, but we knew we would be seeing some hacked together machines soon. [corex37] hasn’t let us down with this beast. It is mainly composed of old printer parts, a couple servos, and a Picaxe 18-x microcontroller. It seems to do a good job right now, but lets hope he keeps going. It would be cool to see it able to change colors like the other one.
[via
Make
]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9Fr5R–J2I&w=470]
| 25
| 24
|
[
{
"comment_id": "285570",
"author": "James Torky",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T17:22:15",
"content": "well, i know what i’m doing this weekend…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285579",
"author": "Elliot Nixon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T18:30:38",
"content": "I understand these posts may be made by people who don’t speak English as a first language, but I must emphasize just how stupid you make your selves sound by using the word “awesome” incorrectly. It makes you sound like a uncultured California teenager.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285583",
"author": "Ford",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T18:40:59",
"content": "@ElliotUh, what? How do *you* use the word “awesome?”http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/awesomeBy the way, your reply makes you sound like a pompous jerk.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285584",
"author": "thenonja",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T18:45:58",
"content": "RE: Elliot NixonYou need to learn to relax. That thumb up your bum makes you sound like an angry, petulant virgin.The effect is awesome, in the worst possible way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285585",
"author": "mars",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T18:46:47",
"content": "^",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285587",
"author": "andres",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T18:57:43",
"content": "their use of the word “awesome” seems to fit. i don’t see what the problem is.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285589",
"author": "Hallo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:03:33",
"content": "@Ford, I think what Elliot Nixon means is that, before its misuse in today’s language, ‘awesome’ meant “to inspire awe,” or: “to inspire fear, reverence, or admiration in that which is grand/extremely powerful,” and if a simple knitting machine can do that to you, then you need to get out A LOT more often.Don’t misunderstand me to be supporting him entirely–it’s pretty well understood today that nobody gives flying f*ck about language.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285591",
"author": "Branno",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:16:00",
"content": "@Elliot,I was a California teenager until about 2 years ago, and though I may have been uncultured, I would still not have typed “a uncultured” instead of “an uncultured”. He used “awesome” correctly. Just sayin.I would really like to have one of these at home to pump out blankets. I guess you would have to sew some panels together to make it wide enough, but that’s ok.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285592",
"author": "Rob Wentworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:20:41",
"content": "That is most definately a “highly awesomized” and “more better” hack than buying one off eBay and just faking keypresses.Geeks hack words too, using them in clever ways not in the dictionary… For instance, it is common to shout “Cool!” when you see a program or device misbehave in a most spectacular manner, especially it it explodes or critical pieces get hopelessly munged… ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285593",
"author": "Rob Wentworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:27:59",
"content": "In Geek Culture, it is also all too common to hear co-workers (cow-orkers) shout “Awesome!” when things go all wonky and totally FUBAR. Of course, the “less cultured” (i.e. “The Boss”) is more likely heard shouting “Holy Sh*t!” in such a situation… ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285594",
"author": "in.cog.nito",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:33:04",
"content": "i would like to see these doing the ascii art from .nfo files you get with the old warez scene.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285595",
"author": "Ryan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:33:37",
"content": "Nice build, but the video put me to sleep. Don’t know why I was expecting more out of a knitting video.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285597",
"author": "Rob Wentworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:36:08",
"content": "To knit pictures, you could run two threads (such as brown and yellow) and simultaneously knit two layers, swapping threads where appropriate. This would create a positive image on one side and a negative image on the other. Some blankets have positive and negative images like that method would create. I have a blanket with lions on it, and when it was upside down on the grass, I took a photo of it. Later, making a negative image, the lions look correct, but the grass and leaves are purple. Just sayin… ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285599",
"author": "Brian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:41:55",
"content": "Outstanding work. I watched the entire video. Almost as fun as watching my pen plotter. For some reason it is very calming.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285602",
"author": "Rob Wentworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:45:04",
"content": "Watching a two-layer version of this machine print Hackaday logos (as described above) would be more interesting. Looking forward to a “highly awsomized it. Just sayin… ;-)http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=awesomize",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285604",
"author": "Rob Wentworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:47:51",
"content": "Hmm… I remember typing “highly awsomized version of it”. I wonder how that became “highly awsomized it” above…*** WHERE IS THE EDIT BUTTON FOR POSTED COMMENTS??? Or is this like e-mail, where I notice all the typos AFTER pressing the SEND button, and then I can’t find the UNSEND button?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285609",
"author": "D_",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:58:55",
"content": "This hack was awesome, cool, far out, sweet. Fortunately most understand the over use of any word, doesn’t preclude others using it in t it’s traditional manner. Dare I say a hack that doesn’t inspire awe in at least one isn’t a “real hack”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285632",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T20:55:08",
"content": "Plus one for the video putting me to sleep. Wow, not the video to watch at 3pm on a Friday afternoon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285691",
"author": "Camerin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:03:45",
"content": "Crochet not knitting. different knots. and yes i know the difference",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "904500",
"author": "Unityrobb",
"timestamp": "2012-12-15T22:12:50",
"content": "Really?Knitting is a row of live stitches held in place on a stick or a loop of wire. The latch needles on a machine hold the stitches in place. Crochet only has one set of loops open (the number depending on the stitch and at which point in the stitch formation) If the hook is removed from crochet the stitches do not run in vertical ladders as is the case if stitches are dropped from a machine latch hook, or knitting needle.I am sure Passap, Pfaff, Superba, White, Phildar, Bernina, Singer, Brother, KnitKing, Silver Reed, Toyota, Elna, Artisan, Taitexma and a host of others would be surprised to learn they sold crochet machines.",
"parent_id": "285691",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "285724",
"author": "Gagger",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T00:24:05",
"content": "this is just avesome!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285836",
"author": "kpetoh",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T07:09:56",
"content": "How about colors by dying the yarn as it feeds into the machine?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285945",
"author": "Zagro",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T15:47:48",
"content": "i wonder how fast you could get this thing going it’s curent speed alltho interesting to look at is a bit slow considering just how fast the big ones can knit this thing should be wizzing along (good test speed tho)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286635",
"author": "Tomasito",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T04:40:28",
"content": "@kpetoh yarn already comes that way, and he’s using that yarn too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "289773",
"author": "j s",
"timestamp": "2010-12-24T14:26:29",
"content": "I would like to see the automation of a Brother KH-930e.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,317.595794
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/17/sd-activity-indicator-for-wii/
|
SD Activity Indicator For Wii
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Nintendo Hacks"
] |
[
"08m",
"led",
"PICAXE",
"sd",
"wii"
] |
[DeadlyFoez] wanted to know when the SD card in his Nintendo Wii was in use.
He built and indicator LED
using a PICAXE 08M and added it next to the SD slot. He uses one pin of the microcontroller to monitor the voltage on one pin of the SD card slot. That pin has a specific value when the card is idle, which rises when it’s in use. He didn’t share the details of which pin he’s sampling, or what the magic number from his source code actually represents. But the concept should be enough of a start if you want to do this one yourself. Watch it go blink-ity-blink in the clip after the break.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IchRODxOG6w&w=470]
| 31
| 29
|
[
{
"comment_id": "285476",
"author": "alankilian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T14:29:39",
"content": "There are five digital signals that have pullupresistors connected. CMD and the four data lines.Since he’s saying tha card is idle if the analogvoltage is greater than a magic value, I’mguessing he’s monitoring one of these five lines,and when it starts toggling that he sometimesdetects a “low” on a line and lights up the LED.It seems like just hooking the CMD line up to adigital input on the PIC and turning on the LEDfor 1 second or so every time it goes low wouldalso do it, but you’d need to make sure thevoltage at CMD went high enough to show as a “1”on the PIC.Without a schematic it’s pretty much guessing forme, so I expect to be wrong about some of this.(I didn’t create a login on that website to beable to look at the photos, so there might besome useful information in those also.)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285479",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T14:42:08",
"content": "If you dont release details about your “hack” then you are faking it.Until he ponys up details it’s a fake.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285480",
"author": "rocketman1001",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T14:42:42",
"content": "At first I thought it was overkill to use a microcontroller for this when a single transistor or monostable timer would do.But then at £1.50 for a PICAXE 08, why not?Good job anyhow.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285492",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T15:02:35",
"content": "Sounds like a 74123 one shot would do the same thing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285504",
"author": "None",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T15:10:18",
"content": "What do the images show that are linked in the post?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285517",
"author": "Leif-KC8RWR",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T15:26:18",
"content": "Does it take a picaxe to do this? Wouldn’t blinking a LED based on the state of only 1 input just require a single transistor at most? Or am I missing something?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285519",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T15:27:28",
"content": "Sorry about that. I was not aware that you had to be a member of wiihacks.com to view anything on the site.So I uploaded my pics to my FB page. Here are some of the pics.http://bit.ly/ecm1dBhttp://bit.ly/ihom7thttp://bit.ly/hTEQ4khttp://bit.ly/e64E4ZAnd here is the initial code that I used, although I have changed it up a bit to be able to detect slight voltage changes, but I lost the file that had the newer code in it, so here is the first bit of code that I did.start:\r\nsetfreq m4 \r\nlow 1 \r\n\r\n\r\nmain:\r\nreadadc 4,b1 \r\nif b1 > 210 then \r\n low 1 \r\nend if\r\nif b1 < 210 then \r\n high 1 \r\npause 50\r\nend if\r\ngoto mainBasically what I have going on here is that pin 4 of the 08M reads the voltage of the SD cards pin 7. Pin 1 of the 08M controls the LED. I was able to find a constant 5v output on the wii’s motherboard and used that to power the 08M.If people still insist on a schematic then I can do one up, but I’m sure it will look cheesy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285520",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T15:28:00",
"content": "You don’t need a uC to monitor a voltage level!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285522",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T15:32:07",
"content": "I tried using a transistor at first, but what would happen if that the LED was always on when the SD card was idle, and the LED would just go dim where there was data activity. Plus at times the transistor was taking up too much voltage from the SD card’s pin 7 and would cause there to be no data written to the SD card and it would fail. I used the 08M to get around these issues so I could slow down the blink rate and so too much voltage wasn’t being taken away from the SD card’s pin 7.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285524",
"author": "Philip",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T15:33:52",
"content": "Could this not be done with a resister and LED connected to pin 7(parallel to DO) of the SD card to ground?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285525",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T15:34:27",
"content": "I know I don’t NEED a micro-controller to monitor voltage, but this was part of the fun of having an afternoon project. I did the hack for fun, not for efficiency.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285528",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T15:36:45",
"content": "@philip. No it can’t. I tried it and the LED used up too much power and caused there to be no data written to the sd card. I was getting data read and data write errors like crazy when I tried it that way or with a transistor. Many of the times the SD card would not even be detected.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285536",
"author": "dext0rb",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T15:56:23",
"content": "did you try a different type of transistor (NPN vs. PNP).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285538",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T16:03:03",
"content": "that would just change when it’s on or not.You he have used a darlington array or used a 555 timer to keep the pulse ‘on’ longer, but personally I would have done it the same as him (except with a normal pic. I hate picaxes)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285539",
"author": "seer",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T16:06:27",
"content": "@DeadlyFoez.Then an Op-amp, a comparator even a 555 will do. They have much high input impedance.And if the voltage is compatible to a logic level, most logic device can handle it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285541",
"author": "Leif-KC8RWR",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T16:09:42",
"content": "Ah… just asking, didn’t mean to sound critical or anything. Great job!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285543",
"author": "dext0rb",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T16:14:43",
"content": "gdogg, i know. he said it was always on when the SD was not being accessed.“the LED was always on when the SD card was idle,”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285561",
"author": "st2000",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T16:39:04",
"content": "Does this really work?1) I would say it is better than nothing.2) I would also say it is not full proof.Anyone who has tried to use SDCards on a large base of products knows the problem. When can you safely power the darn thing down (or pull it out)!The answer? Well, I don’t think a manufacturer is going to say. I’ve tried. Truth is these things manage their own memory and you don’t have a clue what they are up to. For instance when they may go off and do memory-load-averaging.My guess is they do house keeping when they power up then when necessary. My guess is it is safer to pull them out after you ask them if they are ready to do something. Which is something only the host can pull off easily. Even then it is all guess work.If anyone knows different – I for one would love to hear about it! Really – would make my life easier.-good luck",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285572",
"author": "Scuzz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T17:31:45",
"content": "@st2000SD cards use the SPI clock as the primary clock. If you don’t have the SPI clock running, the SD card will be frozen in time, unaware that anything is going on, and won’t be doing anything on their own.I know that in pretty much all of my applications I simply clock when I input a command, and the spec demands that I send an empty clock period in order to give the SD card enough “time” to process, because it can’t run unless there are clock pulses.This is (from what I recall) pretty well laid out in the spec. So in most uC cases, you can be certain that if you’re not running a command, the SD card is safe to yank.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285573",
"author": "Scuzz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T17:34:17",
"content": "Ack, and sorry for the double post, but in a non-SPI environment (aka a built-in peripheral or fancy-schmancy fpga thing) I assume that the card still uses the clock pin for the same purpose, and thus you can assume if the clock is not running the card is safe to pull.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285611",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T20:01:01",
"content": "@seer, I thought about using a 555 timer since I have one kicking around. I don’t have any op-amps nor have I ever played with one to know how to correctly use it.But with a 555 I would have to add in more components like capacitors and resistors and I did not want to have to add in more than needed. I really wanted to keep it simple and I succeeded in that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285612",
"author": "zigzagjoe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T20:01:56",
"content": "I did this for the first generation zipit (little embedded linux machine). I was already using a 74HC04 inverter, so hooked that up to the SPI pin and presto, activity light.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285689",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T22:59:19",
"content": "I remember my updated code that works better.start:\r\nsetfreq m4\r\nlow 1\r\nreadadc 4,b1\r\n\r\nmain:\r\nreadadc 4,b2\r\n\r\nif b1 > b2 then\r\n\tlet b3 = b1 - b2\r\nelse\r\n\tlet b3 = b2 - b1\r\nend if\r\n\r\n\r\nif b3 > 7 then \r\n\ttoggle 1\r\nelse\r\n\tlow 1\r\nend if\r\n\r\nlet b1 = b2\r\npause 50\r\ngoto mainBasically what is happening is that the micro controller and checking the voltage of pin 1 (variable b1), then it goes and and checks it again (variable b2). It then compares those 2 variables. If the value is greater than 7 then it knows that the SD card is not idle and it will proceed to toggle the output of pin 4 (for the LED).I had to do it this way because many times the wii will read or write data to the SD card via serial connection with data only being transfered via pin 7 of the SD card. But I have noticed that many time of trying to write data to the sd card that is all bits of 1, the 08M would see that as the card being idle because it was on high for a longer period to the point that the 08M would get a reading that was higher than 210.In the end, this worked out pretty sweet for someone who doesn’t have a whole boat load of electrical skills.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285736",
"author": "EE",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T01:08:22",
"content": "Next time try and Emitter-Follower driving an LED, you can have a 100% reduction in required MIPS.just sayin…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285788",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T04:45:42",
"content": "@EE, if I knew what those were then I probably would have thought of it as an idea. Quite honestly, I don’t have really any skills in this field at all. I’m great with soldering and thats about it. I was lucky enough to pull together a few things that I had kicking around and knowing just enough about it to be able to make it happen.The only thing I really had going for me is that I used program in QBasic a lot as a kid.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286157",
"author": "Reikaze",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T01:51:00",
"content": "If I would have a uC laying around, for the sake of simplicity I would have done the same thing.With a OPamp you’ll need resistors, then a 555 (and all the peripherals) to slow down the blink, and maybe a few more things to make it work looking fine.Simple, easy, quite inexpensive, and it works. Exactly what an engineer’s boss would want I rather thought (and my teachers would say that too)But more important, that Wii got pimped up. (just a little though)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "292252",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2010-12-29T01:23:19",
"content": "So I decided to try and see if I could add in a NAND activity LED to my wii. For this I used my PICAXE 08M micro controller to to read the CE pin of the NAND flash chip to determine if there is activity. When there is any NAND activity, the CE pin become low (0 volts), but when idle the CE pin floats at around 3.5 volts.The SD card activity is determined by pin 7 of the SD card that the PICAXE reads. When idle, pin 7 floats at a voltage range, but when there is activity then the voltage will bounce all around.I changed the way that I have it now it before. Now the blue SD card activity LED is placed above the SD card slot and the red NAND activity LED is to the left of the SD card slot.I also added in a headphone jack to the right of the SD card slot. This headphone jack is used to reprogram the micro controller.[img]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs736.ash1/162958_172245846148049_100000879040713_328375_5028548_n.jpg[/img][img]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1384.snc4/163674_172245869481380_100000879040713_328376_3443203_n.jpg[/img]The video below demos the activity of the NAND and SD card activity LED’s.[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-F6GfkcOc2E[/youtube]start:\r\nsetfreq m8 ;Make sure the frequency is set to 8 Mhz\r\nlow 0 , 1 ;Make sure pins 0 and 1 are low\r\nmain:\r\nreadadc10 4,w0 ;Read pin 7 of the SD card.\r\nif w0 < 604 or w0 > 620 then ;values between 604 and 620 are when the SD card is idle.\r\n toggle 0 ;If there is activity then toggle pin 0 (the blue LED)\r\nelse\r\n low 0 ;If there was no activity then make sure pin 0 is low\r\nend if\r\nreadadc 2, b2 ;read the CE pin of the NAND flash\r\nif b2 = 0 then ;A value of 0 means there is NAND activity\r\n toggle 1 ;If there is activity then toggle pin 1 (the red LED)\r\nelse\r\n low 1 ;If there was no activity then make sure pin 1 is low\r\nendif \r\ngoto main ;Go to the main: label to loop the code.[b][size=”3″]Future additions:[/size][/b]Wifi activity indicatorCPU temp monitoringFan speed controllerBacklit LCD displaying various things.NAND reprogramming via PICAXE and SD card (No infectus needed)Wiimotes that will explode if my wife has been playing games and not doing dishes :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "423449",
"author": "Conner",
"timestamp": "2011-07-27T05:28:27",
"content": "You could just use a comparator. That way you could just skip the code. (:",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "563176",
"author": "squirrelarmies",
"timestamp": "2012-01-20T05:04:04",
"content": "@DeadlyFoez or anyone else good with soldering with the wii.I’ve gotten into soldering recently and I like what you’ve done with the activity light.I’ve been having a little trouble though, I tried desoldering the SD card port and soldering on another because it stopped seeing any SD cards I put in. I’ve drive two different SD card slots but they both ended up telling my that the card was locked when it wasn’t I’m hoping you’ll be able to tell me what I’m doing wrong. I’ll see if I can PM you if you don’t get this message.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "587785",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2012-02-23T18:59:07",
"content": "Sorry for the late reply. You can PM me on GBAtemp.net if you still need help.",
"parent_id": "563176",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "587796",
"author": "squirrelarmies",
"timestamp": "2012-02-23T19:21:27",
"content": "I sent you a message, thanks.",
"parent_id": "587785",
"depth": 3,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
}
] | 1,760,377,317.66575
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/16/external-ram-for-an-atmega128/
|
External RAM For An ATmega128
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"ATmega128",
"Atmel",
"AVR",
"external",
"ram",
"sram"
] |
Those who are familiar with Atmel’s line of 8-bit AVR microcontrollers should already know that some of them have support for external RAM. But have you ever actually used this feature? We haven’t. Now you can
learn how it’s done by reading through this guide
. It touches on all of the hardware, but doesn’t dwell on it. Instead, you’ll get the background you need on how to write to, read from, and test an external module like the one sticking up in the image above. The test routine shows how to make sure everything’s working correctly with your memory mapping before you begin developing firmware around this increased capacity.
[Thanks Spman]
| 20
| 20
|
[
{
"comment_id": "285137",
"author": "pdadio",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T22:08:20",
"content": "Great work!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285142",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T22:27:55",
"content": "i can find a couple of uses for thislike have it record a vast amount of data really quickly than throw it in an SD card after",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285147",
"author": "MissingFrame",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T22:39:27",
"content": "This could also be used as a memory-mapped FPGA interface.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285182",
"author": "Sage",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T00:07:05",
"content": "Obligatory post about how this is what Hack a Day has ‘come to’.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285200",
"author": "Nocturnal",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T00:29:45",
"content": "Two weeks ago, this would have been of great use to me. Oh well, better late than never.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285204",
"author": "George",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T00:59:24",
"content": "Is it bad that the first thing I noticed were the Yageo electrolytic caps, and that my first reaction thereto was “ew”?Anyway, that’s seriously awesome, not least because it’s reminiscent of the computers of yesteryear, when a few hundred KB of RAM came on boards not a lot different from that one.Add an avr->teleprinter interface, and you’re well on the way to early 1970s computing power. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285210",
"author": "Brian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T01:11:33",
"content": "@GeorgeNot exactly. The AVR can be run at 20MHz, while your ’70s era machines tended to be a third of that, perhaps less.However, I thought about that as well. Not just because of the memory, but because of the size of the memory board.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285226",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T02:05:39",
"content": "@MissingFrame: Can you expand on that comment? I don’t understand what you mean but I’m interested.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285260",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T03:21:05",
"content": "As long as we’re thinking retro, instead of just expanding the RAM to something you’d find built-in on a better MCU; why not add a few extra I/O lines and bank switch for 128KB or more? ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285274",
"author": "RadBrad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T04:20:23",
"content": "Great work! You can NEVER have enuff RAM! And if you don’t mind a bit of an ugly soldering hack, a 512K SRAM is easy to hang on an AVR without a PCB…http://www.lucidscience.com/pro-vga%20video%20generator-1.aspxCheers!Brad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285275",
"author": "RadBrad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T04:21:34",
"content": "Sorry, meant to link to the photo of the 512K SRAM here…http://www.lucidscience.com/projects/VGA%20Video%20Generator/24.jpgBrad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285286",
"author": "Jons",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T05:34:15",
"content": "Nice! I wish it was this straightforward to interface 32bits wide memory.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285313",
"author": "anufaq",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T07:43:12",
"content": ">Obligatory post about how this is what Hack a Day has ‘come to’.hahaha obligatory “not a hack” post :Pon topic – looks very cool :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285337",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T09:05:05",
"content": "thank GOD that is not arduino up there in the picture:)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285366",
"author": "saimhe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T10:41:10",
"content": "@Mike SzczysAccesses to external memory are well documented in the datasheet. In short, the MCU puts out the address value and a “read” signal; or, in case of writes, the address&data values and a “write” signal. FPGAs, CPLDs, even discrete logic can decode the address and map it to some function.For example, a few additional “remote” I/O ports :) — a nice addition when the external bus has consumed all native I/Os but there’s plenty of pins and memory remaining on the FPGA.Another example: a simple discrete address decoder is everything an external UART (16550A clone) needs. It has 8 internal registers that are addressed by 3 pins A0…A2. The decoder must compare A15…A3 of the external bus with some constant and route that to an appropriate “chip select” pin of the UART. A0…A2, RD, WR from the MCU can be used directly. This way all reads/writes at addresses base+0…base+7 will go to the UART.Of course this calls for a tutorial. Sadly I don’t have that custom-made development board anymore, and a bare theory is barely convincing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285529",
"author": "MissingFrame",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T15:44:07",
"content": "@Mike Szczyssaimhe did a great job of explaining it. Really if you only need more RAM on a small MCU, you’d just get a bigger part. What this enables is the more open memory-mapped I/O architecture of the typical 8 bit computers of yesteryear.I guess I was a few steps ahead in those thoughts, when creating FPGA interface to an MCU, it can be very efficient to have it look like SRAM. Especially sometimes if you have an actual SRAM buffer in the FPGA.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285580",
"author": "Andy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T18:33:51",
"content": "Yeah, a project I’ve been thinking of would memory map the BRAMs of a Xilinx Spartan such that it would appear as external memory to a USB AVR.This would permit a multi-universe USB-to-DMX adapter with good performance – Basically take incoming data from USB, dump it in the “external RAM” (really mem-mapped FPGA BRAMs), and hardware in the FPGA would send every 512 bytes as a DMX universe on one output pin.You could probably have 8-16 universes with good refresh rates without any I/O bottlenecks.Unfortunately, the USB AVRs that support XRAM don’t have many good boards based on them. Most people that offer USB AVR boards are offering smaller devices (like the 32U4) or have done something to make the XRAM interface unworkable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285661",
"author": "DarkFader",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T22:14:17",
"content": "char some_buffer[256] __attribute__ ((section (“.noinit”)));Network debug output FIFOs, socket FIFOs, audio playback FIFOs, event log buffer, SD card write buffers… the big stuff mainly since you don’t want to put so many attributes in the code.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285798",
"author": "cantido",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T05:48:52",
"content": "As other’s have said this is more interesting for memory mapped peripherals than just attaching SRAM.With a few GPIO pins for chip selects or some address decoding logic you can attach external peripherals with a nice fat databus. You could for instance drive some of the RTL network interface chips, programmable sound generators.. if you really want you could probably get an ISA interface working and drive old school sound and graphics cards.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285799",
"author": "cantido",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T05:51:36",
"content": "Oh, forgot something.. there’s nothing to stop you wiring up on of those SRAM + Battery NVRAM blocks either.. or maybe a FRAM.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,317.527569
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/16/diy-breathalyzer-may-be-the-hit-of-the-party/
|
DIY Breathalyzer May Be The Hit Of The Party
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Arduino Hacks"
] |
[
"breathalyzer",
"gas sensor",
"party",
"processing"
] |
Okay, this may not be saving any lives, but it makes for a fun novelty at your next rager. Most Breathalyzers aim to keep you from driving when you’ve had too many.
The Squidalyzer encourages party-goers to drink more and more
by treating a high blood-alcohol-content with great fanfare. An Arduino, a gas sensor, and Processing all come together for this hack. A television interface tells you when to blow into a cup which houses the sensor, and gives a reading of what it measures. Blow higher than the last guy and you’ll break the record. Watch the demo after the break to see the fun [Geoff] had with it. And remember, friends don’t let friends solder drunk.
[vimeo=http://vimeo.com/17752413]
| 25
| 23
|
[
{
"comment_id": "285106",
"author": "Koolguy007",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T21:01:31",
"content": "There was something like this at the Dual Core booth during at Linuxfest. Everyone that come with me kept trying to beat each others scores until they finally just got too drink and quit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285107",
"author": "wouter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T21:02:13",
"content": "this would be awesome at parties..(every1 in coma pls don’t point at me..)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285108",
"author": "Scuzz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T21:02:54",
"content": "This seems like a good way to get people to die of alcohol poisoning. People don’t really need a reason to drink more, and this seriously encourages drinking when you’re already too drunk.Party-pooper: AWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "285228",
"author": "Itwork4me",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T02:13:02",
"content": "At least we’ll know what their BAC was…can dead people be in the guiness book of record?",
"parent_id": "285108",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "285111",
"author": "jim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T21:06:54",
"content": "Responsible drinking is one sherry and a good night’s sleep. I approve of this hack.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285113",
"author": "Apo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T21:16:31",
"content": "No documentation? Boo.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285116",
"author": "nootropic",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T21:22:16",
"content": "These sensors are really fun, but difficult to calibrate with any hope of determining BAC. Believe me, I tried:http://nootropicdesign.com/projectlab/2010/09/17/arduino-breathalyzer/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285120",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T21:25:10",
"content": "hahaha that is hilarious. I can see it being a blast, but totally irresponsible.reminds me of the tucker max story.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285136",
"author": "Standard Mischief",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T22:06:08",
"content": "You’re already legally responsible when someone drunk leaves your house. As a host, it’s up to you to nanny state all your guests.Whatever happens, don’t let the district attorney/grand jury know you had this available as a drinking game.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285140",
"author": "godard",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T22:23:51",
"content": "we have one of these at our house at university. The highest BACs are put on the wall of fame!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285152",
"author": "Scouris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T22:47:19",
"content": "What what is it measuring? The scale on that chart looks to go from 0 to 100, so … what? If you hit 100% you are over 0.05% (the limit in Aus to drive)?Yeah, documentation would be nice.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285167",
"author": "Pa55w0rD",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T23:30:29",
"content": ".05? In Florida is .08 that means we are allowed to drink more.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285206",
"author": "jones",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T01:05:03",
"content": "you’ve got to be squidding me.But this really is great.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285211",
"author": "tantris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T01:18:34",
"content": "or have it connected to your computer: no email or other messages, when over the limit.– and that might even be useful.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285222",
"author": "aara",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T01:58:05",
"content": "I’m going for the high score!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285237",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T02:25:36",
"content": "Hate to break it to you, but I can have a few beers, then hold some everclear in my mouth for a minute and beat all your scores without drinking nearly as much. Suckas.Breath doesn’t determine BAC, BAC does. Breath CORRELATES with BAC.Cheers.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285267",
"author": "mattd",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T03:45:11",
"content": "I won.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285312",
"author": "anufaq",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T07:41:40",
"content": "Spork, that would work, however, your friends should beat you up for cheating the system and kick your ass out.In australia you have to wait 10-15 minutes after your last drink before having a breath analysis.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285403",
"author": "bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T11:51:06",
"content": "Ahhh, memories of the Munich Beer Festival…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285417",
"author": "svengali",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T12:58:06",
"content": "*correction*BAC = Blood alcohol concentration. This is somewhat accurately determined by the alcohol content of the breath you exhale. Obviously having alcoholic substances in your mouth at the time of reading will screw it up big time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285596",
"author": "Gnarp",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T19:35:08",
"content": "In Sweden we have 0.2. crazyCool hack.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285621",
"author": "Tod",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T20:28:18",
"content": "I often thought building something like this could be quite useful — or quite dangerous, both of which have been pointed out.On the tech side, it does seem calibrating it would be the trick. Maybe a score 100 means 0.10%? Nah, too easy. But even if… even the units used by police here have problems with calibration and need regular checking and recalibrating.But if it could be done maybe responsible hosts or bar owners could legally hold somebody’s car keys until they fell to the legal limit.On an editorial note:Wow, 0.02% in Sweden and 0.05% in Australia (stereotyped home of big Fosters cans & “Croc Dundee”-style drinkers)… hard to believe many Americans complain about being in an over-regulated nanny state with most places allowing from 0.08 to 0.10% as the limit! The US can legally drive drunker than others.There’s something to be proud of!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "2896545",
"author": "Martin",
"timestamp": "2016-01-25T12:58:15",
"content": "“Hold the car keys”? Therefore they would they would at first have to acquire the keys, and that means forcefully, except I would be comatose.In Austria the limit is 0,5 promille, it was 0,8 until around the beginning 1990ies. Then some drunk driver with much more then 2 promille killed some children – which is of course really sad. But as polticians wanted to pretend to do something useful, the reduced the limit from 0.8 to 0.5. Which is really logic – NO! 2.0 or more were already illegal before, but that did not keep this guy from doing what he did.",
"parent_id": "285621",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "285707",
"author": "Nick",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:39:57",
"content": "Does anyone have a link to the source code for any part of this project, in particular the processing code?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286377",
"author": "daniel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T15:39:55",
"content": "Hehehe, cool, based on thehttp://www.danielandrade.net/2010/03/07/building-an-breathalyzer-with-mq-3-and-arduino/:)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,317.894133
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/20/adding-auto-fire-to-a-computer-mouse/
|
Adding Auto-fire To A Computer Mouse
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Peripherals Hacks"
] |
[
"10f200",
"auto-fire",
"mouse",
"pic",
"rapid fire"
] |
[Peter Skaarup’s] been re-living the past by playing old-school games in DOSBox. He’s using a mouse as the controller but longed for the auto-fire button that many joysticks used to have. Instead of looking around for a gamepad with this feature he decided to
add an auto-fire button to the mouse
. He incorporated a PIC 10F200, along with a momentary push switch and a transistor. The push switch enables the autofire feature, causing the transistor to short the left mouse button about seventeen times a second. Problem solved, and with a couple of other pins on the microcontroller there’s room for this project to grow.
Interested in an auto-fire feature for your gaming console? Perhaps this
Xbox 360 rapid fire mod
will give you some inspiration.
| 49
| 49
|
[
{
"comment_id": "286986",
"author": "The ThunderBird",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:06:11",
"content": "I understand that his analog electronics skills are not up to scratch, but seriously: a 555 would have just sufficed, IMHO.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286988",
"author": "Nick",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:19:02",
"content": "If he only used a 555 timer it would be harder to put in the properly timed 3 round burst and other features later.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286990",
"author": "o",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:22:54",
"content": "You can just do this in software.Although, a hardware version would beat anti-cheat systems in new games.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286992",
"author": "George",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:25:23",
"content": "You could do it with a 555, yes. Or… four transistors, I think, and a couple of discretes. Or, y’know, a PIC.It could be worse; last week I wanted to setup something quick to read two temperature sensors, and make the data available over a serial connection, and the only hardware I had laying around was an STM32 dev board…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287003",
"author": "DarkFader",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:52:57",
"content": "555 is old-skool tech. I know there are 6-pin SMD PIC chips but are there SMD 555s? (and if so, are they cheaper).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287007",
"author": "Lenny",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:03:49",
"content": "@DarkFadera quick google says yes… $0.17 eachhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/the-210/NE555D-NE555-IC-555/Detail",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287010",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:05:59",
"content": "Cool stuff. I did a rapid fire in my xbox controller with a pic 12f683.That said, please don’t link to that old-as-hell xbox ‘mod’. It only works on the OLDEST of xbox 360 controllers. There’s a lot better 360 controller mods out there.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287016",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:21:19",
"content": "@Lenny 8-PIN SOIC != 6pin SMD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287017",
"author": "CRJEEA",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:27:12",
"content": "I agree a 555 timer would have been a better choice maybe with a small variable resistor for speed control and a micro toggle switch as well as a momentary so you have the option to just leave it shooting the hell out of something. why use a supercomputer to do the job that only requires a BBC Micro? what more could you possibly add to this anyway? (Dare I ask that…) if you could get an aldrino and xbee to fit in a mouse you would :D haha",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287019",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:30:16",
"content": "There’s SO much you could add.-Variable speed-Burst size (click 100,250,500 times exactly?)-Click macros-Accelerated click rateetc. etc.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287024",
"author": "Michael Bradley",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:43:04",
"content": "I hope I never use a 555 again! I use the smd 10f series alot, and when I need a 555, I use the 10f. ok, just my rantgood job on the autofire",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287029",
"author": "NatureTM",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:53:17",
"content": "How about boosting the voltage of the square wave to a couple hundred volts and attaching the output to your finger. You could just stimulate your finger muscles directly.Hmm…I might have to try that myself. I’d be awesome at CoD, and I’ll bet the ladies would like it too!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287034",
"author": "Nomad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:00:27",
"content": "NatureTM: Made my day! xD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287042",
"author": "Gilliam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:07:07",
"content": "use a relay, connect it to itself, who knows how fast that would fire? oh, also connect it to the mouse button.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287051",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:21:37",
"content": "It could be worse guys, he could have used an Arduino!!Hehe. Anyway, it would be nice to see some configuration options, like which mouse button it rapid-fires.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287052",
"author": "JB",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:21:48",
"content": "NatureTM: Literally just choked on my coffee reading that…Awesome comment and I have a clean inner nose now too!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287054",
"author": "CRJEEA",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:27:18",
"content": "Hmm… Good idea using the mouse for feedback (:Have it monitor the game you are playing. Vibrate with an off centre weight on a small moter if you het hit and a little electric shock if you loose a life and a big one when you die :D haha may have to build one (:Hmm… All done in software on the pc to save on electronics.Looking over at my bench…One of thoughs micro RC cars supply’s the wireless in the mouse to control the HV maybe from a camera flash (:And the remote for the RC can just go on the parallel port To simplify communications (: vwala cheap dirty hack (: built in an afternoon from stuff I have on my bench haha",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287084",
"author": "tantris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T01:11:54",
"content": "another idea to justify the pic: modes, or use the time delay between clicks to program the rapid fire speed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287111",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T02:05:41",
"content": "I remember doing this some 15+ years ago – playing Star Wars on my Amiga I got tired of clicking the mouse button like a madman so I took the miniature autofire circuit out of a joystick and installed it in my Amiga mouse, along with a miniature on-off switch.Staw Wars was more fun then :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287133",
"author": "jasper",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T02:54:06",
"content": "ive done this mod before with a microsoft explorer mouse (cut the traces to the left side button and wired it to a 555 timer that outputs to the left click. worked really good, in COD MW2 i could unload the 50cal barret in less than a second, same with most pistols) it was fun but i did get called a hacker in a few games. but it was fun as heck in some of the hacked lobbies when you had infinite ammo barret, just hold down the button and aim at your enemys, it actually would make your character go sideways from the recoil and was deadly as heck.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287192",
"author": "Jake",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T05:12:12",
"content": "I don’t think using a 10F222 was overkill. This is acutally pretty cool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287200",
"author": "pRoFlT",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T05:52:05",
"content": "i’ve built two rapid fire mice using 555 timers. I dont thinnk i even put a transitor in, just wired directly through a switch to the trigger on the mouse chip. The switch either enabled normal button clicks or 555 clicks. Plus i put a POT sticking out the back to adjust the 555 timing. In case i wanted faster or shorter fire rate. I do think a pic is overkill for this project. But if he puts in multi mode control or even the ability to control both left and right mouse button that might be usefull?If i put a PIC in i would add a left and right turn button. for thoose bad ass 360 knife kill spins in games. In fact it hink i will add a pic now and control the left and right control!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287232",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T06:44:45",
"content": "He should have used a FPGA.But I guess for some simple use a PIC will do, if you really don’t care.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287254",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T07:25:27",
"content": "there is no need for 555, most likely there is no need for any additional hardware except for a switch, good engineer would find already existing square signal on the circuit and tap into it",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287266",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T08:30:59",
"content": "Holy crap I can’t believe the amount of bitching over the use of a bottom of the barrel cheap, CHEAP, PIC in here. The 10F200 will set you back a massive $0.50 (a whopping 30 cents more than a 555!) and doesn’t even require any peripherals. I would gladly pay that additional money to get the convenience of using a PIC that also gives me the possibility of adding to the functionality later should I choose to do so.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287289",
"author": "bertho",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T09:46:05",
"content": "Using a PIC helps to de-bounce the button in an elegant way. It might not be as flexible (need for reprogramming), but it has to do one job and one job only: auto-fire.With respect to using a 555 vs. PIC, well;… The cost of components is nothing compared to the hours spent on hacking. The $1 component cost does not compare to the 8 hours of having fun hacking.Some have suggested that a different approach, fpga or analogue, would have been better/nicer/hackier/…. If you think so, make it happen and send in your result. Bottomline is to have fun making something do (un)expected things.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287318",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T10:46:40",
"content": "Seriously, it’s cool hack, it works, and it didn’t break the bank.Congrats to the maker.Poo on the haters.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287322",
"author": "ecig",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T11:01:47",
"content": "Now I have to try this just for the hell of it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287341",
"author": "isama",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T11:26:36",
"content": "I think I’m going to do that to my spare mouse using one of the 555’s that keep on poping up on my desk every once in a while. nice idea. even if only to use it as a DoS tool (autofire on refresh button?)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287346",
"author": "RobThePyro",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T12:02:43",
"content": "I did this awhile ago with a pic 12f683 (overkill but all i had on hand…)for the haters one of the main advantages of the pic over a 555 is you can get it to send a seemingly random set of pulses at high speed as opposed to a PERFECT square wave from a 555 which obviously you fingers could never generate for more than 3 or 4 clicks. This makes it A LOT harder for games to detect ‘Fake’ mouse clicks if they ever implemented that feature :Palso easier to add extra buttons to change between say a 3/5/8 shot burst, full auto and adjustable repeat ratesI’ll did that mouse out a some time and add it to my blog :D~Rob.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287370",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T13:04:48",
"content": "cool hack, btw the 10f200 is also available as a 6 pin smd package.Handy if you want to add this to a small mouse or one without much available space.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287423",
"author": "Alex Rossie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T14:48:06",
"content": "@CRJEEA,Now that’s a hack!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287426",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T14:51:06",
"content": "“Using a PIC helps to de-bounce the button in an elegant way”When creating an auto-fire mod, I think switch bounce is not high on the list of priorities…If all you want to do is create a square wave then even 555 could be concidered overkill. You can do that with two transistors, 2 caps and 4 resistors (multi vibrator), or two not gates, a cap and a resistor. Depends what is in your junk box..But if you plan to add more features like the multi shot bursts, then PIC was a good choice. Plus it’s a nice project to start learning with.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287432",
"author": "Luke",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T15:20:29",
"content": "I wish this was a 555 mod. Even features like adjustable firing rate and burst mode could be accomplished with just one or 2 555s (one astable, one monostable, or 2 astable at different frequencies), or even a 556 (le gasp!). Seems to me like it would be less work doing it that way, and cheaper – and a little more interesting. uC are the easy way out.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287448",
"author": "bhd",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T16:29:25",
"content": "Well pic might not be such a bad idea after all. Some anticheat software detect multiple clicks in same regular time intervals and qualifies it as a cheating. Now, with pic a slight offset can be applied to circumvent this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287492",
"author": "Tomasito",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T18:13:34",
"content": "You’re complaining about the pic, and say that you could use a 555. Well, you could use only a UJT transistor, a cap and three resistors.So, before complaining go and learn electronics at least.The only clever one was the one from “therian” who suggested using an already available square wave in the mouse.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287493",
"author": "Lenny",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T18:16:06",
"content": "@Gdogg … what’s your point? he just asked if there are SMD 555’s and how much they cost…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287539",
"author": "Wonko The Sane",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T19:13:43",
"content": "Not new,I built a auto fire mouse for the Atari ST – using a 555 timer – when I was playing Dungeon Master – I could wait near some water, turn on the auto fire, and practice some spells, and when my health dropped, turn off the auto fire and drink the water to restore some health…This was about 22 years ago…. ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287764",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T00:06:51",
"content": "@Therian I’m pretty sure hiring an engineer would be more expensive than buying a pic and a few components :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287777",
"author": "Jake",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T00:32:07",
"content": "HEY! ALL YOU GUYS DISSING THE USE OF A PIC!The 10F222 is *CHEAPER* than a 555 timer in most packages. The 10F222 does not require as much external circuitry that the 555 timer would! This project is cool because it would be incredibly easy to add features like “3-round burst” for your favorite computer games (exactly what I thought of when I saw it) not to mention a whole bunch of other possibilities. The 10F PIC is perfectly suited for this. Using an “arduino” would have been overkill, this is definitely NOT!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287896",
"author": "Tomasito",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T04:33:34",
"content": "@Jake +1",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "288029",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T08:27:21",
"content": "@DarkFader if you wanted to use the “old school” 555 you can obtain them from the red disks left strewn over the roads when roadworks lamps get hit by cars.two 555’s, CdS sensor, sometimes a pair of brass contacts. Simplez :-)(but don’t get run over retrieving them, safety first!)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "288255",
"author": "Arbuckle Jones",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T13:15:42",
"content": "LMAO at the other arduino comments…The VERY first thing that went through my mind was “I’m surprised some dicktard didn’t suggest using an arduino”…Great use of a PIC.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "288575",
"author": "ChrisE",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T20:21:53",
"content": "I did this a few years back with a 555 timer.My newest version uses a PIC12F675. I added a small toggle switch in the side to allow the left click button to default to single click mode, while flipping the switch enables a 10Hz firing rate.The next version will have an indicator LED, and a PB for switch between single, burst and full auto fire.I found this hack very useful when I injured my hand a while back.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "288704",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T23:04:06",
"content": "I just found a use for my old wireless mouse. Only problem was a worn out microswitch, but if I am taking it apart to fix, I might as well throw one of my 12f683s have lying around!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "290733",
"author": "Zom-B",
"timestamp": "2010-12-26T12:56:32",
"content": "Goddammit, my idea is stolen.On December 14th, I made an autofire mouse but I didn’t even tell anyone, how was my idea stolen.I modified my Logitech G5 mouse. I put a PIC12F683 in the space for the weight cartridge, along with a logarithmic volume potmeter (sliding type) for the frequency (between 0.8 and 15 Hz). I configured it in a way similar to an NE555. The potmeter charges a capacitor and when the voltage is larger than a certain CV configured in the PIC, the mouse button is pressed for 1/50th of a second. I put a switch in the gap where the latch for the cartridge was, to turn it on or off. When on, the top orange led (the one shaped as a person) flashes at the frequency of the clicks.For photos, seehttp://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll196/zomb1986/auto-fire%20mouse/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "290738",
"author": "Zom-B",
"timestamp": "2010-12-26T13:08:14",
"content": "Ok, I didn’t mean to sound angry, I ought’ve used some smilies. I always forget smilies >:|Ok, about all that 555 talk, I also tried a 555 and it doesn’t work. When I press the button, I want a click delivered immediately and then at regular intervals. Depending on the way you configure your 555, either it runs astable continuously and the first click can be anywhere after you press, or you have to wait for about two periods worth of time before even the first click is delivered. Using a PIC solves this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "292704",
"author": "Lenny",
"timestamp": "2010-12-29T21:03:41",
"content": "Just for giggles I decided to go ahead and put one together using a 555 timer… Wound up at about $2.50 for materials (not in bulk from spark fun)..Also, I was able to keep the mouse fully functional unlike this one. I know this thread is dead I submitted it to HAD, but apparently it didn’t make “the cut” so here’s a link for anyone interested:http://itslennysfault.com/adding-auto-fire-to-a-computer-mouse-555-timer",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293845",
"author": "IJ Dee-Vo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-31T18:40:33",
"content": "@haters..On no someone didnt do something the way I would do it, how dare they! If it’s not how you would do it, then do it your way and post it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,317.977342
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/20/tape-delay-made-from-recycled-cassette-decks/
|
Tape Delay Made From Recycled Cassette Decks
|
Joseph Thibodeau
|
[
"classic hacks",
"digital audio hacks",
"Musical Hacks"
] |
[
"audio",
"cassette",
"delay",
"echo",
"tape",
"vintage"
] |
Professional tape delay units are great fun, but often expensive. You’d think that with so many derelict cassette decks filling the world’s dumpsters someone must have figured out a way to make a cheap tape delay… not only in the interest of saving money (sometimes quality is worth paying for) but also in the interest of re-using otherwise wasted resources.
Forosdeelectronica forum user [Dano] has made just such a device from
used cassette decks and miscellaneous parts
(
translated
). First he investigated the operation of the playback, erase, and record mechanisms and broke out the tape heads. The playback head is on a plastic rail so that the delay time can be changed, while the record head is fixed. [Dano] encountered some difficulties in ensuring good quality for the recording and erasure, which is an important consideration when working with magnetic tape.
Another fun aspect of this project is the modded drive speed, which would allow for some wacky time/pitch stretching.
You can listen to the audio example of the working system
here
.
We don’t know about you, but we have several old tape cassettes sitting in our “to-hack” box and they’re not exactly hard to find elsewhere–many of them end up on the curb on garbage day. It would be fun to combine this with other audio projects like
Rich Decibel’s Kequencer
–think of matching the delay length to the sequenced pattern length! For a more finicky addition you could play around with the drive mechanism using some
custom gearing
–think multiple loops and reversals.
The images in this post are taken for illustrative purposes from
Forosdeelectronica.com
. If you want to see them in [Dano]’s post you must register on their forums.
| 25
| 19
|
[
{
"comment_id": "286980",
"author": "ridefst",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:48:09",
"content": "Not sure about the time/pitch stretching; that would require the tape moving at different speeds past the record and play heads…not possible with a single loop of tape. Changing the motor speed shouldn’t have any effect on the overall output, other than possible sound quality issues.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6330792",
"author": "Gerry Chappell",
"timestamp": "2021-03-13T01:32:07",
"content": "Hey guys, look up echoplex, a good example we used for vocal and instruments in the good ole’ days!",
"parent_id": "286980",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "286983",
"author": "Lenny",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:54:34",
"content": "The post this links to is dated 2006…However, it’s still a pretty cool hack and the first time I’ve seen it",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287013",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:14:40",
"content": "i’m still working on this but i’ve made a tape delay from a floppy driveit’s fun to play around with the platter cause you can ‘scratch’ what you’ve just playedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAEmo7Ycd1Q",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "5877142",
"author": "mr.Jelle-Beat",
"timestamp": "2019-02-16T15:06:35",
"content": "Finding this idea about 9 years later still makes me wonder why I never thought of this. Thanks for sharing!",
"parent_id": "287013",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "5877178",
"author": "Elliot Williams",
"timestamp": "2019-02-16T15:56:46",
"content": "Jeri doing it ten years ago:https://hackaday.com/2009/04/24/analog-audio-recorded-on-a-floppy/",
"parent_id": "5877142",
"depth": 3,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "287025",
"author": "delaylaylay",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:48:14",
"content": "@zool:Your floppy drive delay is freakin’ sweet. PLEASE send in a DIY because I want to make one. How long of a delay can you get with that?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287040",
"author": "Booker T. Worthington",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:05:42",
"content": "Nice hack.@ZoolI’d be interested in seeing the details of your hack. You ought to do a write up and submit it to Hack-a-Day",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287063",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T00:12:45",
"content": "@Lennywhat does date matter?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287081",
"author": "The Cageybee",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T01:02:21",
"content": "This is exaclty how the first musical delays were made. Look for the Watkins Copicat.@ridefst Changing the speed of the tape would alter the timing of the delay effect, as it takes the tape more/less time for the part of the tape to get from the record head to the play head dependent on speed. The pitch would also change relative to the tape speed, but only if you’re actively changing the speed as the sound’s being recorded and played back. It creates some wicked sounds.As you point out, tape speed does effect sound quality, although I can imagine slow speeds would give some nice grundgy sounds.TBH I think altering the speed of the tape is a better approach to altering the delay time than physically altering the distance between the heads.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287085",
"author": "Polyphuckin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T01:11:54",
"content": "@Lenny No its not, Thats the date Dano joined. It was posted 1 day ago.And props to dano for this build. amazing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287112",
"author": "humble reader",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T02:06:09",
"content": "Some more floppy drive delay/reverb,http://hackaday.com/2009/04/24/analog-audio-recorded-on-a-floppy/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287114",
"author": "localroger",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T02:09:35",
"content": "While this is a pretty cool hack it should not be confused with workable schemes. You could get a much better (as in less noisy and more reliable) effect with any of a dozen cheap microcontrollers and no moving parts.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287121",
"author": "wernicke",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T02:32:33",
"content": "Back in the early 80’s, I was involved in doing this to produce a phone-in talk radio show at a college radio station (with no budget for real delay equipment). We recorded phones & studio mikes on one open-reel deck, ran the tape over a couple of pulleys and played back on another deck to go on the air. The tricky parts were cueing the talent to start talking 7 seconds early, and quickly rethreading the machines when the tape ran out or broke. Good times!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287230",
"author": "ejonesss",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T06:32:06",
"content": "looks like the forum is trying to recruit more users by having a signup to look at content.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287238",
"author": "mjrippe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T06:51:31",
"content": "@localroger: Sure, or you could buy a digital delay pedal. But that’s not the point is it? Analog (and specifically tape-based) delays have certain characteristics that are actually desirable to musicians. A more “workable scheme” could also be a reel-to-reel tape recorder which would offer better overall fidelity and stability plus a better platform to build on. Downside – larger size in many cases and more expensive to begin with.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287263",
"author": "qwerty",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T08:12:41",
"content": "I could not see the images so I assume the project works only as a tape delay, therefore the following could be of interest.A tape delay can be turned into a chorus machine by putting the two (or more) tape heads relatively closer then slowly moving the playing one(s) back and forth in order to change the distance between the recording head and the playing one(s). This what the modulation control does in electronic chorus effects (digital or analog) and slowly changes the played signal frequency so that it creates the chorus effect once it’s mixed back with the original one.To easily and slowly move the head(s) a servo could be used but beware of microphonicity if the tape head catches the servo vibrations.BTW, I hate sites that force you to sign up only to see images, they clearly don’t realize what means trying to remember a user login+password for every site where something interesting is posted.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1273336",
"author": "Mister X",
"timestamp": "2014-03-17T02:25:43",
"content": "Can’t see the images?Wow, retro…. how does Hack A Day look in Lynx anyhow?",
"parent_id": "287263",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1273342",
"author": "Mister X",
"timestamp": "2014-03-17T02:29:06",
"content": "BTW, I’m not a registered user and I see the images and can post just fine.",
"parent_id": "1273336",
"depth": 3,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "287280",
"author": "deyjavont",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T09:07:49",
"content": "http://www.mzentertainment.com/studio_workshop_zdlctd105.htmlI found this guy’s project years ago, and I did a very similar delay unit with two identical desktop recorders strung together using a custom cartridge with two cassettes wound with one tape to provide the delay.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287377",
"author": "robomonkey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T13:35:14",
"content": "instead of harvesting tape decks, you could get those old tape adapters we used for our cars in the days before digital playback was available for Car head units.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287451",
"author": "The Steven",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T16:52:19",
"content": "I did the same thing in the ’70’s with 3 heads an a a schematic for an input mixer I found in on of Mimms’ books.It worked out fairly well and was quite entertaining during “festive occasions”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "288833",
"author": "Mike Painter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-23T05:47:53",
"content": "Three head tape decks from the old days had this feature and the delay was very short. If this unit has a short delay, here’s something that will reduce most people to tears of laughter. Wear headphones and speak into a microphone. You hear what you read a small fraction of a second later and it is impossible to continue until you learn to ignore the sound of your own voice.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1273362",
"author": "Mister X",
"timestamp": "2014-03-17T02:33:49",
"content": "Ha, ha, ha, this is the bane of all new broadcasters when they forget to switch their headset monitor back to “studio-feed” instead of “off-air”.",
"parent_id": "288833",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "1273387",
"author": "Mister X",
"timestamp": "2014-03-17T02:43:50",
"content": "This is a fun little project that could be very useful in some situations, although the lack of capstans for the tape heads really limits the signal being recorded, as the tape to head distance will be continuously variable, and wow-and -flutter must be off the charts, but if those things don’t matter to the music/audio project being recorded, who cares, eh?Years before digital recording made it’s way into radio stations I helped a buddy record a spot for his radio show and he wanted a custom music bed, so I wound up standing 10 feet away from the reel-to-reel tape deck, holding a pencil in the end of the loooong loop of tape. It worked, but it was certainly unconventional.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,318.111676
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/20/instructables-hackaday-edition/
|
Instructables “Hackaday Edition”
|
Caleb Kraft
|
[
"News"
] |
[
"ebook",
"instructables"
] |
We got a pleasant letter from [Eric Willhelm], the owner of Instructables. He wanted to shoot a token of good will our direction,
in the form of an EPUB
of some of the projects we’ve linked to in the last quarter of 2010. These are Ad-free and have all images included. You can download it and view it on the e-reader of your choice, or even in your browser with the
appropriate plugin
. The videos still link back to Instructables, but he thought our readership might enjoy having an ad-free experience. He says that link should work for about a month.
For those who really want ad free content and are willing to pay for it, Instructables has been putting out publications that are collections of instructables on certain topics. For example, [Eric] pointed out that they’ve compiled some that might be of interest to us like “
Better living through microcontrollers
” and “
Amazing LED Projects
“. Actually, there are a bunch of titles and it looks like some are free as well.
Thanks [Eric], I’m sure your actions gained a little respect, even from those who dislike Instructables generally due to ads and registration.
| 67
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "286923",
"author": "alan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:20:38",
"content": "Caleb,Please learn how to use grammar,learn the differences between “Ads” and “Adds”, and learn how to read your posts before you hit ‘submit’.Dear,Me",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "286924",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:22:18",
"content": "Thanks Alan.I sincerely appreciate your proofreading. The problem will be resolved immediately. Keep up the good work.",
"parent_id": "286923",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "286925",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:22:31",
"content": "My problem with instructibles is not the ad’s. it the fact that to see most of the images at a decent size you need to be a “member” sorry, no thanks. You are profiting off of the work of others and then restricting access to what they did? That’s simple scumbaggery.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286930",
"author": "DarkFader",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:42:00",
"content": "PDF please. Erm oh wait.. PS, SVG? Don’t want to install yet another add-in.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286934",
"author": "Adrian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:51:14",
"content": "As soon as I read “ad-free instructible” i was interested. When I got to the fact that this would only be for a limited period of time, I realized this was little more than a publicity stunt. Thanks, but no thanks. Until I can view instructibles without registering, I’m not really interested in anything posted on it. Teasing me with content for a month doesn’t really cut it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286935",
"author": "grelfod",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:53:15",
"content": "‘Membership’ ya right – it is free and easy and offers many viewing pleasures.If HAD had a free membership to browse the archives would you still be here trolling?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286936",
"author": "catzburg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:53:46",
"content": "@fartfaceyeah it’s not the ads that are irritating. This site has ads, and you don’t hear us complaining.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286940",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:55:56",
"content": "Well that was nice of them. I guess the comments have gotten pretty negative towards them. Maybe if they give you more shwag you can turn the spam rat against anti-instructables comments.Seriously, though, that was a nice gesture.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286943",
"author": "ColinB",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:02:29",
"content": "OK, so Instructables provides free web hosting and free tools to make it quick and easy for anyone to make an instructable, with (1) page navigation, (2) image hosting with nice mouse-over annotation regions, (3) comment support, and (4) links from and to other (hopefully) related instructables.It’s kind of like YouTube, I think. When I first heard of YouTube, I thought “Why is this so great? Anyone can hosting video files on their web site easily.” Well, beyond the free network bandwidth, and so-easy-your-grandma-could-do-it part, you get the visibility that comes from being part of the YouTube site. I think it’s similar for Instructables. You give up control and flexibility for ease of use and the benefits of being absorbed into the social structure of the site (with links to and from other ‘ables).I would certainly not make Instructables the main home of any project I created, but I could imagine posting an Instructable copy of a project that also links back to my real project web page. This way I could get the publicity benefit of being on instructables but users could always “upgrade” their experience by clicking the link to my own web site.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286944",
"author": "ColinB",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:04:47",
"content": "Sure, it’s a nice gesture but it doesn’t make our day-to-day experience any better. You just have to think about both the positive and negative aspects of Instructables and decide for yourself. This limited-time, limited-scope gesture in some weird format (EPUB? why not PDF?! Does the file expire after a time?) is less than useless.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286946",
"author": "Adrian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:09:27",
"content": "ColinB – I dont have to register to watch youtube videos. If youtube required registering in order to watch videos, you really think it would be as popular as it is now? As someone who is primarily a consumer of project instructions, how easy instructibles makes it to post project descriptions isnt my main concern. My main concern is how easy it is to read project descriptions. When I see that a project is on instructibles, I know that I am going to be annoyed with “register to see the rest of this!” tactics, and I’d rather just pass on what may or may not be a good project. There are alternatives, and as a consumer I’d prefer the alternatives that go out of their way NOT to piss me off.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286974",
"author": "Cracknel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:37:00",
"content": "Using epub2pdf (downloaded fromhttp://epub2pdf.com/) I have obtained this:http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10324115/Hack-A-Day-Instructables.pdfIf you get (404) please wait a couple of minutes for dropbox to sync with my computer.Enjoy!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286975",
"author": "CH",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:38:14",
"content": "Instructables provides no barrier to competition. And putting your project on Instructables is a free choice to make. If there is a superior alternative, just name it, otherwise Instructables provides a platform for things that would maybe otherwise not be published. They even have competitions and a pretty good newsletter. They can’t be held to the standard of those who do things for free, as personal endeavours. Too many projects give too much away, then have no resource for growth; Look a HAD maybe? v. small community with low participation (the Santa competition), occasional low quality posts, no forum; Can’t exactly damn what Instructables has achieved, they’re in a bigger league.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286977",
"author": "IceBrain",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:43:29",
"content": "“EPUB? why not PDF?!”Maybe because epub is way better than PDF for ebook readers, since it allows for text reflowing?By the way, epub is also more open, since it’s basically a ZIP file with XHTML content and a couple XML files for metadata. You could probably unzip and read it with a normal browser.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286982",
"author": "Kevin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:52:54",
"content": "Could HAD implement a policy of hosting a PDF (Or EPUB, if you must) of every Instructibles article that is linked to (forever, concurrent with each new posting of an Instructibles article)?This would be beneficial not only to remove some of the griping about Instructibles but also to help future-proof HAD against Instructibles changing their URL structure, the article being changed/removed, or possibly increasing the restrictions to the point of unusability.…or is there an EULA that prevents members from distributing the PDFs that they download?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286987",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:13:23",
"content": "Sooo they’re giving us a very limited amount of projects ad free for a limited time in a format I have to download yet another plugin to view in my browser.Can someone explain to me how this makes Instructables easier to use?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286991",
"author": "Branno",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:23:48",
"content": "Nobody has thanked Cracknel yet? I also wasn’t going to jump through the hoops to read the EPUB, but I downloaded the PDF and look forward to reading it. Thanks.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286997",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:35:29",
"content": "What a bunch of retard comments!The epub link is at the top and mobi reads it fine.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286998",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:35:30",
"content": "@CH – I suppose you’re right about instructables being in a bigger league. That being said, how many visits a day does a site like HAD get? (if that’s public) I’m always curious as to how sites like this stack up.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "287000",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:46:09",
"content": "@JC,http://www.sitemeter.com/?a=stats&s=sm6hackadayor click the button on the bottom right hand corner of hackaday.com",
"parent_id": "286998",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "287001",
"author": "Adrian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:46:19",
"content": "Bigger league doesn’t imply that they need to be annoying to use – look at google, I get all the features of the search engine without having to sign up for an account. Youtube is the same way, I can watch vidoes without needing an account. Why do we need to sign up for a service to view other user’s content? Instructibles went for a paid model, and it must work for them, but for people who expect free content (a lot of people, since most content nowadays IS free) it isnt up snuff. On that note, thank you, hackaday, for not requiring registration to view your posts, or even to comment on the posts. Thats a huge plus in my book :-D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287004",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:58:40",
"content": "@Caleb Kraft – Thx! Wow, that’s a lot of visits…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287008",
"author": "Nigel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:03:55",
"content": "Hackaday and Instructables. The best two hacking sites on the web, bar none.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287011",
"author": "Guy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:07:15",
"content": "@NigelWell, 50% correct isn’t too bad.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287014",
"author": "Adrian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:15:10",
"content": "^",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287038",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:05:24",
"content": "I love the “your profiting off of” blah blah blah its an exchange, they get profits to continue running and I have a place to put my stuffbesides if you get featured you get a 3 month pro membership for free, so far JUST in the last 2 months I have racked up 18 months of pro membership, oh nowes someone named fartface doesn’t like where i host my stuff, oh effin well",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287064",
"author": "macegr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T00:13:51",
"content": "I appreciate what Instructables started out trying to do. However, what guaranteed my eternal non-participation was how they added the signup walls after there were already thousands of projects uploaded to their site. Everyone who uploaded a project did so thinking it was going to be visible in a certain way, and then Instructables changed it all. It would be just like if WordPress decided that people could view only a small portion of blogs they host, like Hackaday, unless they created an account and logged in.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287068",
"author": "ling sm",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T00:26:44",
"content": "The quality of instructable has gone down hill, rapidly. I could not find anything worth clicking for last few months. I don’t think this is even a nice gesture, but a constant play of seeking free content and potential paying viewers. The minimum they should have done if they are fair in nature is to pay people for posting when they started charging. But if a fairplay needs to be asked and told, one can safely concluded they aren’t worth it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287069",
"author": "mjrippe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T00:31:13",
"content": "@catzburg: Firefox + Adblock Plus = Ad Free HAD!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287076",
"author": "jimmy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T00:46:33",
"content": "Long time user of Instuctables; but I’ve mostly “dropped out”:Instructables has one over-riding positive–it’s project interface is easy to use, easy to navigate, and decently featured. It’s enough of a reason alone to use the website.Unfortunately, there are loads of negatives.–It’s bug filled. Always.–Forum? That’s a joke. It’s dominated by a handful of hardcore members, split evenly between pedantic adults and irritating 13 yr-olds.You cannot edit any forum posts. A special editor must be launched simply to format posts (even carriage returns). Same with PMs–no CR in PMs. Paying members can add formatting tags (maybe they can edit existing posts, but I think not). What a great idea–write custom-coded forum that works like a throw-back to 1998…The forum originally had no organization–all posts were lumped together. Later they added sub-forums, but everyone clicks on “view all”, because that emulates the old “easy” way. So no sub-groups have ever been nurtured or grown there, and no more than a handful of projects have every originated in the forums.In fact, they also originally had a “Group” concept that’s largely fallen by the wayside.To make matters worse, they “forked” all the technical discussions to the “Answers” section, where the same (semi-knowledgeable) people “answer” the questions, and the person least qualified (person who asks) gets to judge the answers. And now the forums are even LESS interesting to read.–The add-on editor (they brought this code in prewritten) launch “broke” much of the pre-existing formatting within Instructable projects. That was a huge PITA.–I won’t even go into the “Pro” (member pay) issue. Soon after they announced it, there was a mini-uprising, and the website was forced to scale back the “restricted” non-pay features.So be happy that non-registered, non-paying viewers can see anything at all…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287088",
"author": "r_d",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T01:22:58",
"content": "I’m not even complaining about the cost.The fact that they require me to log in to view images _ALONE_ is enough to make me loathe Instructables. The fact that anyone who isn’t a subscriber has to deal with that atrocious mutli-page structure they enforce is stupid.They’re profiting from other people’s work, not their own services. They don’t simply add a few advertisements or charge posters a small fee, they restrict access to the very content these people wish to share. It’s a backwards model. Yes, it’s been around for a long time in one form or another, but it’s never been any good for anyone but the publisher.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287090",
"author": "jinx",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T01:29:46",
"content": "http://www.bugmenot.com/view/instructable.com",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287104",
"author": "r_d",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T01:46:31",
"content": "And, on the issue of “bigger leagues”:Look at what popularity has done to digg. It was a decent site at one time. After it went non-strictly-tech, it’s become the same asinine pseudo-political ragefest that saturates the rest of the blogs and forums on the internet.There is a reason I read Hack a Day and I don’t read Instructables. I don’t care about how large a site is or how much content it produces. On a big site, I’ll only see a small fraction of it anyway, so what does it matter? I read HaD because it’s relevant to me. HaD fills a very specific niche that _no other site_ on the entirety of the internet fills. Not even Instructables.Instructables is very arts-and-craftsy. It’s form over function in the truest sense. Gluing a few brass doodads to a computer peripheral will never impress me. I can find something to like if I try really, really hard (forging swords, etc), but most of it is just knitting novelty socks or painting Nerf guns.Hacking is on the opposite end of the spectrum. It’s doing some herculean task with absolutely nothing or with (seemingly) the most inappropriate tools. RFID with an ATTiny chip and a single inductor (no supporting circuitry or power source), using the PWM of a power indicator LED to enable rapid-fire on an XBox controller, or probing BGA pads with some thin enameled wire and toothbrush fibers or fishing line. Possibly even designing a huge, ugly, loud, inefficient, and impractical (yet totally functional) computer using nothing but a few thousand electromechanical relays.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287107",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T02:00:38",
"content": "The overall content of Instructables and the layout are the two main reasons I only ever visit it when there’s a link from one of the few hacking sites I regularly visit.Apart from having to log in to view all the pages in one go, their login setup is a pain in the arse because I can’t simply login and click back to get to the project page and press refresh – it doesn’t work like that, I have to login, close the tab and click the original link again.Then there’s the embedded images, it’s very frustrating trying to click on the individual thumbnails to view the ‘fullsize’ version because often the fullsize images aren’t the same height so the thumbnails change their position on the page and you have to keep trying to follow them with your mouse.Why not put the thumbnails above the ‘fullsize’ image or make sure the the ‘fullsize’ image is always the same height even if you have to pad it with blank space.Talking of layout issues, one minor thing that bugs me about HAD is that when you click links in the article writeup or the comments, it replaces the HAD page you’re viewing, I’d prefer it to open in a new tab – actually I think I might whip up a greasemonkey script to fix this for me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287122",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T02:33:19",
"content": "i’ve been a member and user of hackaday AND instructables for years now and i have 1 complaint with instructables1 thing that they USED to allowyou should be able to enlarge ANY picture without registering, maybe not to FULL resolution but atleast give us a little bigger than the damn thumbnail without logging in!who cares about ads?ads pay for the internet!if i didnt want ads i would install ad block plus or something similarbut not being able to enlarge pictures without registering/logging in ruins the user experince, not everyone wants to sign in every single time they view a site, the only time i log in to instructables is to post comments or submit content, i dont want to login just to view somone’s submission, we get ads either way(or maybe adds) so its not like a few extra k of bandwidth is going to kill the site because we arnt logged in",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287128",
"author": "Alex",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T02:38:45",
"content": "Instructables ad’s and there need for you too pay for just about everything if you wish too create a project takes the ****, it was great when you could do everything for free as long as you were a free member!Money making out of us hackers.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287142",
"author": "ritec",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T03:23:37",
"content": "Thanks, but no thanks. Give the freaking pdf away you glutton.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287143",
"author": "zhanx",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T03:30:42",
"content": "instructables are you reading this? I bet if you took a poll you would find 98% of the people feel the same way",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287145",
"author": "r_d",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T03:35:01",
"content": "@Haku:“one minor thing that bugs me about HAD is that when you click links in the article writeup or the comments, it replaces the HAD page you’re viewing, I’d prefer it to open in a new tab”right-click -> “Open Link in New Tab”or, simply:middle-clickThis is the behavior I expect of links. I’d rather HaD didn’t change it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287146",
"author": "walt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T03:37:17",
"content": "“These are Ad-free and have all images included.”it’s sad that this need to be said. the internet is dead. thanks instructables and the like. you suck!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287170",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T04:21:04",
"content": "@r_d, I know about “open link in new tab”, middle click and ctrl+left click to open in a new tab, but I have my browser configured so that the browser doesn’t automatically go to the new tab, this behaviour is preferred for me so that when I’m searching for something and get a slew of links I can middle-click on several links all at one go and then go through the newly opened tabs at my leisure instead of having to constantly go back to the original search results.Did you also know about middle-clicking on the Reload, Prev & Next navigation buttons in Firefox? (and presumably IE), now those are some useful functions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287176",
"author": "jaxxs",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T04:37:11",
"content": "@Cracknelthanks for the pdf’s, that made my day",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287204",
"author": "Drone",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T06:00:51",
"content": "I hate Instructables. Email harvester in my opinion. Intentionally holds back content until you give in. Steer clear of them. Instructables would get far more hits and make more ad money if would they stop harvesting email addresses and let you actually view the content on their site that was put there by others for free.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287292",
"author": "Max",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T09:58:21",
"content": "Here’s a free tip for login/pay/walled sites like Instructables: LIFE IS TOO SHORT TO KEEP LOGGING IN, DUDES! The Internet is humongous and 99% of sites I visit when I browse I see less than once a month, likely less than once a year if ever again. The rest of 1% I visit regularly, and I refuse to log in even there (but on different grounds).The idiots who think I’ll register to j.random.forum just to see a pic/get access to an attachment every time I find a post answering a problem I have are BITTERLY WRONG. I won’t. Period. And if I must, it will always be a disposable identity I’ll never use again, that will just clog up their databases from then on, for all eternity (give or take).So here’s one for you: do kindly step out of the way – completely – and don’t restrict access in any way, especially when content isn’t even your own, no matter what you claim to provide or not. If you have to make money (and I do understand that you do), provide instead OTHER optional, supporting services for-pay, that COMPLEMENT that content, but do not restrict access. Something like a PCB fab service for a hobby electronics site for example – you’re not paying me, so come up with your own ideas; I have no idea what may or may not work, ok?Oh, and marketroid bait like special-offers-for-a-limited-time instead of genuine good-will (long-time policies) do nothing but offend me even more instead of redeeming some respect. But hey, that’s just me, right…?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287355",
"author": "pat",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T12:42:09",
"content": "HAHAH What a gesture from InstructablesIt’s like some old perv that comes up in a van to offer you one free candy, in a non-standard packaging. Then he asks you to go in his van if you tell him your name and other login info.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287422",
"author": "Faelenor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T14:45:02",
"content": "If you want ad-free Instructables, just register for a *free* account and install adblock! That’s it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287490",
"author": "rlanctot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T18:06:49",
"content": "Instructables died when 50% of the content was Knex guns. Seriously, they saw the end coming and decided to cash in while they could. They took a good place and ran it into the ground, then shit on it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287505",
"author": "Some Bloke",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T18:31:56",
"content": "Let’s face it, there is a culture mismatch between the two sites.I’m a huge fan of user generated content, the remix manifesto, the free software movement.Access to information and being able to hack the devices we want is vital.Instructables is the antithesis of that mind set. Just say no.Post your content on one of the free blog hosts. Or sourceforge.net. Keep your content free.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287598",
"author": "jimmy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T20:17:54",
"content": "The Instructables pay-wall for user-contributed content was ill-conceived, no doubt.Still, once it was implemented, if they had only hired more programmers to fix the weird bugs and screwups (forum), pop-up ads they claimed they would never host, etc., I’d have gladly paid. Simply because I had found a stable, persistent home for my projects.Instead they doubled the programming staff–to two. For a site that’s pretty much all custom code, and a large database.I’m not paying for someone to make money off my projects–unless the freaking thing works seamlessly. It’s simple consumer issue for me–don’t pay for crap.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287644",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T21:42:13",
"content": "Register for free and run adblock, then you’ll have the nicest tutorial experience on the whole friggin web.I seriously don’t see the problem here?OH NO I NEED TO REGISTER, yes it will also cause your mahood to shrink and your hair to fall off. At least have the knowledge of site like bugmenot that was posted earlier if you want to avoid registering. Christ, ignorance is more annoying that add filled sites.I also didn’t know HAD ran ads, i’ve been having an ad free experience for about 7 years now. And no i’m not sorry for “not giving the sites their ad money”. The ads are random, never interesting and mostly they’re made by people that think flashing something big and neon at your face makes you buy shit – guess what, it doesn’t.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287647",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T21:43:45",
"content": "@Jimmy you’re exchanging your project for their platform – that’s how the site works. Paying is optional.It’s like renting a lemonade stand, it will cost you something, but you’ll get something in return.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287751",
"author": "jimmy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T23:40:32",
"content": "@Eirinn: Don’t tell me, tell instructables.At the inception of the PRO campaign (paying users), they initially tried to limit access to project photos to only one photo per “step” (page) unless you ponied-up for a paid membership (projects usually have several images per page). And there were other plans to limit content access.So don’t tell me about quid pro quo and YOUR concept of “how the site works”–the staff was FORCED (in the sense that hundreds of users rebelled) to honor that perception, against their new business plan. Only a user uprising prevented it’s implementation.Clearly, the site doesn’t make enough money from advertisements to support operations. Equally clearly, they’re willing to go pretty far to survive, including boning long-standing members who contributed believing the site would stay free and open.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,317.757826
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/20/oxhydrogen-water-rocket/
|
Oxyhydrogen Water Rocket
|
Noah Dunker
|
[
"chemistry hacks"
] |
[
"hho",
"oxyhydrogen",
"rocket",
"rocketry",
"water"
] |
[cmwslw] built a
soda-bottle water rocket
that uses the ignition of oxyhydrogen gas to quickly expel the water, as opposed to the usual compressed air and water mixture. His project contains excellent documentation with photos and it builds on other articles he’s written about generating the flammable HHO gas used to launch his craft into the skies. Every aspect of this project uses items most of us have at home or could score cheaply at most hardware stores.
We love seeing projects that re-purpose everyday materials into something fun. Just be sure to dodge the
missile
pop bottle as it speeds back to Earth!
| 37
| 37
|
[
{
"comment_id": "286865",
"author": "Kevin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T17:05:06",
"content": "Oxyhydrogen….HHO…that sounds suspiciously like water.Also, the site is down.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286881",
"author": "jammin0",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T17:14:19",
"content": "HHO is the perfect mixture of gas for ignition/explosion. It is no longer the compound H20 as it has been broken into its gas form, I presume by using electrolysis. At least that’s what I remember from Chem 101",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286884",
"author": "blain",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T17:18:41",
"content": "@Kevin:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxyhydrogen@Op: The site is belly up in the fish bowl",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286885",
"author": "Ric",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T17:20:43",
"content": "HHO is also known as browns gas. It’s what some crazies pump into their car along with regular petrol/gas to “improve” their mpg, If you believe all that.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OxyhydrogenThe site is still down :(But to wet your appetite check thsi out:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etMYl5iu6vw",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286887",
"author": "Truthhertz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T17:29:36",
"content": "I suspect that “oxyhydrogen” really exists as 2H2 and O2.Ignite it, and it recombines as 2H2O",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286889",
"author": "Watch Out",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T17:32:21",
"content": "Not sure if HHO is just mixing Hydrogen and Oxygen (because the site is down right now) but be extremely careful. Hydrogen mixed with Oxygen wants to explode and does not need much help getting started.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286890",
"author": "phill freeman",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T17:35:29",
"content": "Website is Down",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286898",
"author": "TopHat",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T18:11:29",
"content": "http://makezine.com/20/hhorocket/A link worth noting. I remember reading this in a Make magazine. Pretty cool stuff.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286902",
"author": "macona",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T18:48:18",
"content": "Calling it HHO is bad science. Browns gas is even worse.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286917",
"author": "Werfu",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:08:12",
"content": "The gas formula is 2H² + O². Forget about Brown, that guy use to promote idea that violate thermodynamic laws. But the idea of running an engine on that gas only could be nice. Wonder if there’s any conversion that has been done. Hydrogen mechanical engines require a hell of a compression ratio.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286945",
"author": "TopHat",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:08:26",
"content": "@ maconaWell we’re in luck then, Most of us have abused science and its terms for years. I know I have, in fact.. I make a sport of it. :)–TopHat",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286979",
"author": "Cory Walker",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:47:57",
"content": "I’m doing all I can to try to revive this poor, abused server. I thought it could handle the load but obviously not. And I agree HHO is not the correct since hydrogen and oxygen are both diatomics and their natural state is H2 and O2. Nevertheless, HHO is by far the most common term.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286985",
"author": "asheets",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:00:39",
"content": "http://www.dangerouslaboratories.org/hydrogen1.html“(T)his gas is too dangerous to store or be of any practical use” Not that would stop anybody on HaD, of course, but one should NEVER store fuel and oxidizer together.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287002",
"author": "Niru",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T21:46:45",
"content": "In HS chemistry, we inadvertently did this, by accidentally bumping the collecting tube. (an inverted test-tube, with electrodeds, immersed in water. One electrode was generating oxygen, the other was generating hydrogen, which bubbled up, and collected into two inverted tubes.One of the students lifted the hydrogen-gas containing tube, and accidentally lifted the electrode above the surface of the water with the tube. The electrode was a wire coiled around a graphite rod, and it was loose enough that as the rim of the tube bumped it, in the open air, there was a spark. (we assume, after the fact). The spark ignited the air-hydrogen mix, (the oxygen was isolated in a separate tube with the other electrode; and was left behind, fine) – and instead of exploding the tube, it launched it upward, straight out of the student’s hand, at about a 45 degree angle, out of the opening of the vent hood, through the suspended ceiling, (making a neat, round hole), and shattering somewhere above, against the steel roof of the building.It was the kind of thing that kept us attentive in class. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287033",
"author": "Michael Bradley",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:59:57",
"content": "Would not HHO be properly said as H2 + OWhereas HH2 technicaly is H2OJust my 2cents",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287041",
"author": "Michael Bradley",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:05:51",
"content": "I stand corrected, co-worker corrected me, its (2H + O) since its 2 parts hydrogen, not 2 hydrogen atoms stuck together (H2)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287046",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:13:43",
"content": "i nearly incinerated my thumb making this once, using aluminium in a surplus bottle.Tried to ignite it with a gas igniter, and expected a small pop. Bad move, resultant flame reached 2 feet and was hot enough to deform the bottle as well as serious burn requiring a week to heal.Needless to say be very, VERY careful and assume it will blow up in your face, take precautions associated with high explosives such as full face shield, gauntlets etc.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287047",
"author": "mic",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:15:40",
"content": "I made a cutting torch using oxygen and hydrogen. Worked great then exploded. It was a really small one. That’s why I am not dead =)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287055",
"author": "Cory Walker",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T23:37:24",
"content": "Michael Bradley: actually both hydrogen and oxygen naturally bond with another atom (diatomic) so it is (2H2 + O2)Niru: wish my science class was as awesome as yours.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287072",
"author": "1000100 1000001 1010110 1000101",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T00:38:24",
"content": "I experimented with “HHO” systems for about 2 years. I set it to the side because it was a lot of upkeep. Using baking soda as the electrolyte was cheap, but required constant flushing of the system. Throughout the life of my best system, I improved the fuel consumption of my truck by an additional 1.8 mpg for that time of year. No laws of thermodynamics were violated. Gasoline engines are horribly inefficient. The additional 2H2 + O2 simply allows the gasoline to combust more completely, while cutting a few weeks off of the life of the battery.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287168",
"author": "steve eh",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T04:18:49",
"content": "I kind of want to try this as fuel for my potato cannon….the sch 80 pipe should hold the force, might set up a collection tank with some solar panels..ohh ideas",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287184",
"author": "cornelius785",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T04:48:38",
"content": "I can’t remember where I saw the video, but it showed a launch using a 5 gallon filled with hydrogen + oxygen. I think it was able to lift a respectably sized pumpkin up far enough to smash itself when it came down. I think there was also a clip of the 5 gallon container exploding.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287235",
"author": "Leithoa",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T06:48:07",
"content": "We did this on purpose in my Highschool chemistry, but we scaled it down to disposable pippette bulbs and launched them down the hallway for distance.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287347",
"author": "lurker",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T12:02:47",
"content": "Once again this may be a drunken rambling post, but chemistry is my forte and I absolutely ABHOR the the use of “HHO” – The term is NEVER used correctly and most idiots that use it are simply crossing their fingers hoping they can break the laws of thermodynamics. You know, the basic laws of the universe only apply to those who believe in them…First, after reading (skimming, actually) aformentioned site, it appears that he’s pressurizing the headspace of the rocket with “HHO” gas instead of the normal compressed air. I’m not about to do the math (or research his setuup for that matter, if you have any knowledge of electrochemistry you’d realize it’s practically irrelevant in this situation)… But, here’s a few numbers for ya – The average 2-liter is rated to 150 psi, 1-liters and 20-ouncers can take a bit more. You can charge to this level a few times before stress cracks are evident. Normally, a water rocket would push 100-120 psi to get maximal loading while staying within the safety margins. Based on his timing, I’d estimate that he isn’t hitting 10% of capacity, likely far lower.…Second, IF he was using any respectable amount of “HHO” (which he obviously isn’t, as will follow) the result would be quite a spectacular explosion – These overunity dipshits need to look up the concept of stoichiometry – IE, there is a perfect balance for any reaction that is mathematically derivable – with “HHO” it is 2H2 + O2 -> 2H2O… Flip it around and you have the results of electrolysis, minus conversion and efficiency losses…Just cause it’s impressive doesn’t mean you’re getting anything useful. I’m going to skip a few points, but the basic gist of it is that IT DIDN’T EXPLODE – meaning, that, his perfectly balanced explosive propellant mixture didn’t really do much more than regular air would have. Simple math, providing he did it “right” – 150/14 (14 psi being standard atmospheric pressure) = ~10, which is roughly equivalent to compressing a full volume of “HHO” into 10 percent of its normal volume… Go out and fill a 2-liter with “HHO” and (with all proper safety precautions) ignite it – I can absolutely guarantee you that it won’t take off like a rocket, at least not in one piece…This is getting a bit LONG, but a few more points…YOU ARE NOT PRODUCINT “HHO” – you are producing a normal, stoichiometric mixture of hydrogen and oxygen. 2H2O (simplified) -> 2H2 +O2. Regardless of whether or not you have an undivided or divided cell, your result will be DIATOMIC hydrogen and DIATOMIC oxygen. There is nothing special about it – The energy obtained from the combustion of a balanced mixture (which is what you get) is the same as what was used to produce it…However, in reality, it ain’t perfect – the conversion loss in your electronics and efficency loss in your electrolysis setup will ALWAYS put you at a net loss – There is some inetersting research coming out (cobalt spinel electrodes, IIRC), but you’ll NEVER hit 100%, let alone anything that would provide worthwhile in terms of energy system conversion.…”HHO” DOES exist, just not in the way that the Browns Gas crowd would like to believe. Google the “atomic hydrogen torch” – Atomic hydrogen welding has been known for quite some time, but it has nothing to do with browns gas (and you “true believers” are hopelessly deluded)… In summary, YES, you CAN produce atomic hydrogen, burn it, and get MORE energy than usual from an electrolytic system – HOWEVER, it isn’t magic – The extra energy obtained is pumped in via the high-voltage ionization of the hydrogen stream – In essence, you pump more energy into the system for the net gain of a hotter flame at the output – It IS NOT MAGIC, but to those who do not understand (or simply don’t want to understand) the barebones basic laws of the universe, it appears as such.…Finally, to those who wholeheartedly believe in the utility of your brown’s gas generator in your car, a more worthwhile investment would be an odb-2 interface… I have a theory that the only thing you’re doing is tricking your oxygen sensors (likely upstream, as it shouldn’t change anything downstream)… Here’s what I want to see – Has anyone tested their horsepower gain/loss? Has anyone tested said system on an old-ass, non-electronic, carbureted car or brick-shithouse diesel? Admittedly, I haven’t done all that much research into this fad, but knowing the basics of energy in DOES NOT EQUAL OR UNDERRUN energy out basis of literally every system used on the face of the planet, there has got to be SOMETHING else going on here… It ain’t as simple as the free energy crowd is trying to get us to believe, but I don’t have ALL of the answers…I do, however, know enough to call the “HHO” fad absolute bullshit, or, failing that, useful minds that are hopelessly misdirected….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287373",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T13:15:21",
"content": "interesting..on a side note, does anyone happen to know why a mira moderna would randomly lose power and stall?it works fine 99.9% of the time, but the symptoms are like fuel starvation yet it recovers fine if left for 2 mins with engine off.i’m thinking ecu here = $$$ but if anyone has any other ideas post here…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287389",
"author": "JohnSmith",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T14:23:07",
"content": "Hmm. Lurker has a long and rambling post. I _think_ he’s saying that the overpressure from a hydrogen/oxygen reaction is too brief to harness – the rocket will just explode, or do nothing. Once the heat of reaction dissipates, the Ideal Gas Law says that the pressure should be slightly lower than before.I think he underestimates the breaking strength of a coke bottle. Those things can handle better than 500psi before bursting – if you’re lucky, of course. And the heat of reaction shouldn’t dissipate that fast.As for the whole brown’s gas in the car thing, anybody who runs a mix of hydrogen and oxygen into their engine deserves the explosion that is likely to follow.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287430",
"author": "1000100 1000001 1010110 1000101",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T15:09:24",
"content": "Adding diatomic hydrogen and oxygen to the combustion process of an internal combustion engine will, in fact, increase the efficiency of its operation. It is not magic, and it is not “over unity.”Let’s look at it this way: if a cheesy website offered cans of a magic solution that, when placed inside your tires, improved your gas mileage, no one would buy it. But we all know that if you keep your tires properly inflated with air, your gas mileage is improved. It’s not magic. It’s not free energy. By increasing the tire pressure, you simply decrease the contact surface area between the tire and the road, thereby decreasing friction, which allows more energy from the gasoline combustion to be directed toward the desired result – forward motion. Simply minimizing the losses.Example 2: Adding a tonneau cover to the bed of a pickup will improve gas mileage. What? You mean that piece of fabric that just sits there is magically adding energy to your truck? Free energy? Nope, just cutting your losses by decreasing drag, meaning that more of the energy produced by fuel combusion in going toward motion.Example 3: Adding Peltier devices to your vehicle exhaust/engine compartmnent to improve your alternator and battery life. Free energy? Nope, just taking a small amount of the energy lost as heat and putting it back toward something useful.As I stated before, gasoline engines are terribly inefficient, generally in the 20-25% efficiency range. A large part of the reason we need catalytic converters on our vehicles is because of the unburnt fuel spewing out of the engine with the exhaust.Oxyhydrogen fuel systems require some energy from the vehicle, and LESS ENERGY IS PRODUCED from its combustion, when viewed as a closed system. However, hydrogen and oxygen that would not ordinarily combust (since a perfect stoichiometric reaction is impossible to attain) is combusted with the fuel/air mixture, allowing the fuel/air mixture to burn MORE COMPLETELY. This results in a lower fuel-to-oxygen ratio entering the catalytic converter, which is why on some vehicles it is necessary to alter the O2 sensors, so that the ECM does not negate the process by calling for more fuel.This is why the energy consumption/production of “HHO” systems must take into account the entire vehicle as a whole. To not do this would be the same as analyzing the energy extracted from the vehicle’s battery over the lifetime of the battery, compared to the energy it can contain, without accounting for the energy extracted from gasoline combustion to put energy back in. The system must be viewed as a whole.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287433",
"author": "TopHat",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T15:40:36",
"content": "Hmm, wheres a troll rat when you need one .. *da-tada!*",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287514",
"author": "Pa55w0rD",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T18:43:03",
"content": "the troll rat got overloaded with the long comments they need to upgrade it",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287534",
"author": "Watch Out",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T19:06:45",
"content": "In college chemistry class the teacher had a balloon filled with hydrogen which he lit to get our attention. It went up in a ball of flame and made an extended sound.He then lit a balloon filled with a mixture of hydrogen and oxygen to teach us the danger of mixing the two. The balloon went off in a flash and sounded like a gun shot.Much more force was created with the mixture than if the two were separated. Very dangerous mixture.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287767",
"author": "asheets",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T00:17:54",
"content": "Another danger warning — there really is no excuse why [cmwslw] should ever launch a rocket without some sort of recovery device.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287893",
"author": "Jake",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T04:23:51",
"content": "Wow. HHO? Try 2*H2 + O2. Lol. Chemistry education fail.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287966",
"author": "Cory Walker",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T06:16:48",
"content": "@steve eh: That’s a really neat idea! Hairspray is expensive and polluting.@lurker: I’m baffled by the fact that you would write such a long criticism with a fundamentally wrong understanding of how my rocket works. You claim that I am pressurizing the rocket with oxyhydrogen and using the pressure to launch it. In reality, the added oxyhydrogen is under normal atmospheric pressure and it’s ignition produces the needed pressure. About the nomenclature of oxyhydrogen: read the note at the freakin’ top of the article! Also, not once in my guide did I claim > 100% efficiency.@asheets: Actually there is an excuse: The rocket is a plastic bottle that travels 200ft into the air and falls! Not gonna kill anyone on the way down.@Jake: I don’t know where you’re getting the idea that I call it ‘HHO’ since my post clearly does not use the term.Wow, sippin’ haterade much? Worse than my ex-girlfriend…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "288422",
"author": "IsotopeJ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T17:26:42",
"content": "@lurker, you’re mostly right, but I see you aren’t as well versed in automotive technology.O2 sensors aren’t very sensitive…adding a little more oxygen at the air intake isn’t going to change them significantly. While I don’t have experience with this sort of thing, I will admit that it is possible, however improbable that an on-board H2/O2 generator will be efficient. Though I have seen injection systems (propane, H2, NO2, even H20) with onboard tanks that really boost combustion efficiency in gas and diesel engines.@1000100 1000001 1010110 1000101 you’ve got it wrong too. Tonneau covers on pickups actually worsen the aerodynamics and cause lower gas mileage. Mythbusters even did this one.A better example would be a supercharger. I installed a fairly low compression supercharger on my Tacoma and gained both gas mileage and horsepower. It compresses air going into the engine, and of course the work to do that is being done by the engine itself via a belt drive. If you don’t look at any other factors of course physics tells us there is no net energy gain. There’s more going on here but I’m not going to give you a lesson about the modern internal combustion engine. There are plenty of books on the subject.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "289878",
"author": "asheets",
"timestamp": "2010-12-24T19:02:28",
"content": "@Cory Walker — Yea, I suppose that’s why the very first page I ever Googled on building water rockets had 2 pages of rocket building instruction, 2 pages of launcher instruction, and 10 pages of recovery techniques.But then again, considering that you are mixing your oxidizer and fuel (and risking spontaneous combustion in your hands), that you care very much about personal or property safety. I’ll stick with water and compressed air, myself, and work on re-usability techniques.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "367893",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2011-03-26T05:23:36",
"content": "I didn’t think this was talking about free energy. It’s talking about using HHO (which should be listed as H^2 + O^2, since the atoms are bonded to themselves, as diatomic molecules, not each other) it’s just a mix of hydrogen and oxygen, without a reaction, since the temp is too low.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "993673",
"author": "Cory Walker",
"timestamp": "2013-04-15T01:58:41",
"content": "New link:http://cmwslw.blogspot.com/2012/11/perhaps-my-favorite-project-ive-ever.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,318.050252
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/20/kinetic-sculpture-takes-a-page-from-modern-life/
|
Kinetic Sculpture Takes A Page From Modern Life
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Toy Hacks"
] |
[
"cars",
"conveyor",
"industrial",
"kinetic",
"packaging",
"sculpture"
] |
The blurry image above is a snap of toy cars as they zoom around a multi-lane, multi-level,
maniacal-maze called Metropolis II
. We originally took a look at the video after the break (do it now!) but found more information on [Chris Burden’s] kenetic sculpture in
this NYT article
. He and eight studio artists began work on the project back in 2006. They built 1200 custom designed cars and gave them a huge city to traverse, with up to 18 lanes at times. The work is not yet done, and the video below is dated (having been filmed in 2009), but project is slated to conclude in about two months and the installation has already been snapped up by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
And here we thought this was the product of an out-of-work packaging system design engineer. Nope, it’s art, and it certainly eclipses other
kinetic sculptures we’ve seen
.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UQ2vqFJvpA&w=470]
[via
Tinkernology
]
| 24
| 24
|
[
{
"comment_id": "286840",
"author": "Swighton",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T15:36:58",
"content": "Pretty sweet – takes hot-wheels to a whole-nother level.Though I’m a bit confused about how it could take 9 people over 5 years to make – other than the custom track its simple bolt together steel. I’d love to know how much the museum bought it for.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286844",
"author": "Wiljan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T15:49:00",
"content": "Put a wireless camera onboard in one of the cars",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286855",
"author": "Tordre",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T16:23:42",
"content": "@Swighton, it appears they also designed the 1200 unique cars. i think that is what took most of the time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286860",
"author": "donov4n",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T16:38:14",
"content": "What is that good for again? Oh, I forgot, they call it “art”…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286864",
"author": "Gene",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T17:01:47",
"content": "@donov4nIf you don’t think that this justifies it’s own existence (“art” or call it whatever you like,) you sir, have a cold shriveled up shell of a soul.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286888",
"author": "swighton",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T17:31:10",
"content": "@tordreOkay that makes a lot more sense. Sort of.Now I have to ask what value the custom designed cars add to the piece – I personally find them indistinguishable from run of the mill hot-wheels cars. Why not buy 1200 cars for $1200 rather than the ~$500k to pay the artists to custom design them (a conservative estimate – 9 people $10/hr 40 hours/wk for three years = $500k (say the other 2 years was design and fab of the road)).Perhaps the value the custom cars added was for the designers rather than the piece – you know, pad out the project for 5 years and get paid for it the name of art…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286901",
"author": "Ivan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T18:37:04",
"content": "@swightonWell, they look indistinguishable in this video. As many things I’ve seen in YouTube that have great detail in real-life. I’m not an “art” person, but when an artist wants to build something, the piece has something meaningful to show. I don’t think they want the meaningful part to be “these cheap guys bought a bunch of cars and put them a race track – Big deal-“.I’d believe that as artists, they would want to make something different from what other people could easily achieve.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286913",
"author": "swighton",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:00:30",
"content": "@IvanI understand that for sure. I just have trouble getting past the cost (the engineer in me). But hey – if people are willing to pay why not?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286914",
"author": "Ben Wright",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:00:34",
"content": "It looks like a pain to move. I hope they keep it there a while. I thought it was also a big hot wheel track.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286929",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:39:40",
"content": "What modernistic drivel. Overpriced, loud, movement for movements sake, crapola.Putting the tag “art” on any old piece of crap is a scam that has outlived it’s usefulness.Next time, buy a box of popsicles, a few sets of hotwheels, and invite a 1/2 dozen 6 year olds over. Waaaaaay cheaper and you’ll get better results in just an afternoon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286931",
"author": "mrb",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:42:26",
"content": "cool",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286933",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:45:15",
"content": "No off ramps?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286937",
"author": "RBRat3",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T19:54:50",
"content": "Aww man the turns have no banking, god they would haul ass if it had banks in the turns.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287026",
"author": "JBu92",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T22:50:40",
"content": "best. hotwheels. track. ever.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287070",
"author": "Thomas",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T00:33:29",
"content": "Just watched this while listening to Daft Punk – The Grid. BLEW. MY. MIND.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287091",
"author": "damntech",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T01:30:05",
"content": "I have been to modern art auctions. The price is higher than I can afford but when you see something that just looks like turds on a canvas closing for >$70K or swatches neatly painted on a couple canvases >$60K this is a steal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287132",
"author": "m d",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T02:52:48",
"content": "It seems to be by this Chris Burden –http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Burden– who has made a long line of interesting/controversial works over the last 40 years",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287144",
"author": "sanud002",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T03:34:24",
"content": "This thing looks just like a giant Rokenbok set up I made with my son!http://www.rokenbok.com/community/show-and-tell/rokenbok-multi-plex",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287148",
"author": "impala",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T03:44:12",
"content": "The Ramps or “escalators” that take the cars to the top need to be tweaked a little faster. It seems to be the major bottle neck in the system. It would make things more linear and fluid.Even a futuristic “Metropolis II” has congestion/rush hour/traffic delays it seems.They look like regular 1:64 scale hotwheels to me__",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287291",
"author": "Glenn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T09:50:30",
"content": "That. Is. So. Unbelievably. COOL!!!Also I agree with Wiljan. A camera on 1 or more of the cars would make it even cooler. What I’m really curious about is what the distance of the track is, and how long each of the cars take to travel it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287524",
"author": "KingofPain",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T18:56:23",
"content": "Freakin’ awesome. It would be entrancing to watch… kinda like a model train displays are for me. (but more frantic. =)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287988",
"author": "k0ldBurn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T07:00:23",
"content": "This makes me want to go out and buy a shat-load of hotwheels track.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "288027",
"author": "medwardl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T08:24:49",
"content": "I’m guessing that part of the reason for the custom cars is going to be the wheels. I’ve seen a normal hot wheel under continuous motion the wheels have a tendency to break in less than a half hour because there is nothing built in for them to reduce friction on either the rod connecting the tires or the friction of the tires on the inside wall.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "289482",
"author": "Reckless",
"timestamp": "2010-12-24T01:01:52",
"content": "This is really cool watching it in motion. I can definitely understand the whole “art in motion” concept to this. This takes “hot wheels” to a whole new level.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,318.17271
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/19/hackaday-unleashes-a-troll-sniffing-rat/
|
Hackaday Unleashes A Troll Sniffing Rat
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"HackIt"
] |
[
"arduino",
"piezo",
"python",
"rat",
"troll"
] |
Sometimes we like to take a few minutes away from
Hackaday
to spend time with our families. But just when you take your eyes off of the incoming comments,
Trolls
are bound to strike. Well, [Caleb] and I found a solution to the problem in the form of a troll sniffing rat. This beady-eyed vermin sits on my desk and waits. When a trolling comment is detected its eyes glow red and an alarm is sounded. Join us after the break for more about this silly project.
Software
To pull this off I need a few things to happen. First, a way to parse our incoming comments. That’s easy, we use WordPress as our content management system and that means there’s already an
RSS feed for global comments
. I just need to grab that data and traverse the comment authors for known trolls (who haven’t been banned). That’s not hard to do with a Python script, especially if you take advantage of the
Beautiful Soup module
which sanitizes and navigates HTML and XML. My script checks the feed every two minutes, stores the number that identifies each comment so as not to have duplicate alarms, and makes decisions based on the author of that comment. A simple list of usernames is used to search for trolls, but it could be used just to notify whenever one of your favorite readers leaves a comment. The script then records a message on the standard output, and sends a coded command via a serial connection.
Here’s what the terminal output looks like:
And here’s the Python script:
#!/usr/bin/python
trolls = [ 'Mike Szczys' , 'Caleb Kraft' ]
signalAllComments = True
signalAllAudibly = False
import urllib2, time, serial
from BeautifulSoup import BeautifulSoup
#start a list of comments to prevent duplicate alerts
dupe = []
#setup Arduino communications
ser = serial.Serial('/dev/ttyUSB0', 9600)
time.sleep(5)
#get list of comment identifiers
while True:
#Reset Arduino from the last trigger
ser.write('z');
#Get the comments
html = urllib2.urlopen("http://hackaday.com/comments/feed").read()
soup = BeautifulSoup(html)
#Check each one
for item in soup('item'):
thisID = item('guid')[0].string.split('comment-')[1]
if thisID not in dupe:
#Add to the duplicate list for next time
dupe.append(thisID)
#Convert post time to local time
postT = item('pubdate')[0].string
parsedT = time.strptime(postT, "%a, %d %b %Y %H:%M:%S +0000")
offsetT = time.mktime(parsedT) - time.timezone
localPostTime = time.strftime("%m/%d/%y %H:%M:%S", time.localtime(offsetT))
#Check if this is a post we're watching
author = item('dc:creator')[0].string
if author in trolls:
print "(" + localPostTime + ") Troll Alert: " + author + " just posted a comment"
print " " + item('guid')[0].string
print
ser.write('a')
time.sleep(1)
elif signalAllComments:
print "(" + localPostTime + ") New Comment from: " + author
print " " + item('guid')[0].string
print
#audible signal?
if (signalAllAudibly):
ser.write('b')
time.sleep(1)
time.sleep(120)
Hardware
Next, I needed a way to sound the alarm when the parsing script identifies a troll. In my mind the easiest/quickest way to develop hardware connected to a computer is to use an Arduino connected via USB. I have an Arduino that I’ve never actually used for a project so I thought this would be a great start. I dug up a piezo buzzer and some LEDs and started looking around to see what code examples I could repurpose.
I found
a post on making music using a piezo buzzer
, so I altered that code to make the sounds I desired. I also looked at the serial communication examples that come with the Arduino IDE to get communications up and running. Like I mentioned above, I’m sending an ASCII char via serial connection from my Python script. The sketch below just looks for those chars and acts accordingly. I can make the hardware light the LEDs and play a bad sound when ‘A’ is received. It plays a good sound and does nothing with the LEDs when ‘B’ comes through. Any other letter turns the LEDs off, which is what the Python script uses to reset the LEDs two minutes after the last troll alert.
//Piezo code from:
//http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1241248988
void setup() {
pinMode(7, OUTPUT);
pinMode(8, OUTPUT);
Serial.begin(9600);
}
#define PIEZO_PIN 8
// defines for the frequency of the notes (.5 x freq of mid C)
#define AN 220 // 440 Hz
#define AS 233 // 466 Hz
#define BN 247 // 493 Hz
#define CN 261 // 523 Hz
#define CS 277 // 554 Hz
#define DN 294 // 588 Hz
#define DS 311 // 622 Hz
#define EN 330 // 658 Hz
#define FN 349 // 698 Hz
#define FS 370 // 740 Hz
#define GN 392 // 784 Hz
#define GS 415 // 830 Hz
// defines for the duration of the notes (in ms)
#define wh 1024
#define h 512
#define dq 448
#define q 256
#define qt 170
#define de 192
#define e 128
#define et 85
#define oo7 1 // 007 jingle
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
void play_tune(int tune){ // play a tune . . .
switch (tune) { // a case for each tune
case 1:
for (unsigned char i=0; i<4; i++)
{
ToneOut(FS*4,et);
ToneOut(CN*4,et);
}
break;
case 2:
ToneOut(CN*8,e);
delay(16);
ToneOut(CN*8,e);
}
}
void ToneOut(int pitch, int duration){ // pitch in Hz, duration in ms
int delayPeriod;
long cycles, i;
//pinMode(PIEZO_PIN, OUTPUT); // turn on output pin
delayPeriod = (500000 / pitch) - 7; // calc 1/2 period in us -7 for overhead
cycles = ((long)pitch * (long)duration) / 1000; // calc. number of cycles for loop
for (i=0; i<= cycles; i++){ // play note for duration ms
digitalWrite(PIEZO_PIN, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(delayPeriod);
digitalWrite(PIEZO_PIN, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(delayPeriod - 1); // - 1 to make up for digitaWrite overhead
}
//pinMode(PIEZO_PIN, INPUT); // shut off pin to avoid noise from other operations
}
void loop() {
if (Serial.available() > 0) {
int inByte = Serial.read();
// do something different depending on the character received.
// The switch statement expects single number values for each case;
// in this exmaple, though, you're using single quotes to tell
// the controller to get the ASCII value for the character. For
// example 'a' = 97, 'b' = 98, and so forth:
switch (inByte) {
case 'a':
digitalWrite(7, HIGH);
play_tune(1);
break;
case 'b':
play_tune(2);
break;
default:
digitalWrite(7, LOW);
}
}
}
The final piece of the puzzle was to put two red LEDs inside of a plush rat that we had lying around the house. The eyes were embroidered so I clipped the LED leads at an angle to make then sharp enough to pierce through to the inside. I used a Dremel sanding drum to make the clear LED package cloudy and to shave off most of the extra plastic. I then used a couple of KK connector patch wires I had around to attach to the leads on the inside of the rat head. After removing the stuffing from the body I pushed the connector all the way on and then bent the leads over the connectors. There’s picture of this below, but without the leads bent.
I restuffed the rat and stapled up the seam that I cut open to do the work. I love the outcome. It’s clearly audible throughout the house, and I had fun along the way.
It turns out that an $8 webcam and an Ubuntu box don’t make up a great video setup. But if you must see a demonstration, here it is:
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUNlzNo9tr8&w=470]
Follow me on Twitter
@szczys
| 79
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "286517",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:08:06",
"content": "awesome! :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286519",
"author": "alex",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:11:40",
"content": "hahah thats awesome",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286522",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:25:22",
"content": "But…what about sophisticated trolls like…:“Pardon me, but thine projects are reminiscent of five days old faeces?”.Now, i’m not a troll, but i couldn’t help myself ;)Nice project – and hey, it might become more useful than you think :) it reminds me of the “stupid filter” project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286523",
"author": "Stevetronics",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:26:59",
"content": "I. WIN!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286524",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:29:54",
"content": "Obvious coolness is obvious.Nice!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286526",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:31:51",
"content": "aren’t you really just tempting people to try to burn it out? albeit impossible, but still?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286527",
"author": "Henrik Pedersen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:33:57",
"content": "Oh no it has an Arduino!(Rat blinking red and sounding like crazy!)No just kidding, I love those damn things ! … and this project is very cool done, but maybe use an Ethernet shield / or use something like advanced filters / regex in combination with that list to search for unknown trolls, acting like trolls…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286529",
"author": "iToast",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:38:15",
"content": "Awsome! lol…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286531",
"author": "Necromant",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:41:52",
"content": "Ow, crap… another arduino. And why do arduino-fans always wonder why I don’t have a C++ compiler-enabled toolchain for avrs….P.S. Awesome project, but it would do a lot simpler and cheaper with just an attiny2313+vusb stack for connectivity via usb. The code will pretty much fit into 2kb of flash.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286539",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T23:19:09",
"content": "@Necromant: You’re wrong on both accounts. It wouldn’t have been simpler nor would it have been cheaper.You see, I didn’t really have to do much hardware wise since you just plug in the Arduino and your microcontroller is ready to program and already hooked up for serial communications. This is simpler than building the circuit for a USB connection with a tiny2313, hooking the chip up to a programmer, and loading up the V-USB packaged.It also wouldn’t be cheaper. I already had all of the hardware for this on hand and not being used. In effect this was free.But nice attempt at trolling… I guess you succeeded because you got me to respond ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286544",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T23:35:46",
"content": "Lol, When I read the article, I was going to come here and say that anyone who moans about the Arduino gets an auto-add to the trolling list. But I was too late.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286548",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T23:43:47",
"content": "Aha! I loved this post, all hail the Troll of all Trolls!Trolling aside, the rat looks great and this project is for sure a great introduction to the arduino and python.Thanks! Keep it comming :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286550",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T23:52:30",
"content": "You make writing up projects look easy mike. kudos. (its not easy)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286551",
"author": "Adam Outler",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T23:54:26",
"content": "Nice work mike. This is definitely something useful with a bit more work. What if you add a LCD with a log and a push button to clear it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286552",
"author": "Osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T00:00:42",
"content": "why didnt you just use the tone() function? would have saved you a half page of script =)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286553",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T00:01:29",
"content": "@Adam Outler: Now you know why I never around to chat… sorry!Back on topic: Should be pretty easy to add an LCD, but you’d have to get the Python script to send the display data to the Arduino. You also need somewhere to store that data unless you pull it from the computer as you scroll through the menus.Maybe version 2?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286554",
"author": "RadBrad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T00:03:57",
"content": "Great!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286557",
"author": "jtaylor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T00:20:03",
"content": "k, just sayin…If you have the capability to do this, wouldn’t it make more sense to just have it attach a tag to the name of the individual(s) in question to warn others to take comments with a grain of salt?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286567",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T00:39:04",
"content": "Hmmmm, lets put this to the test. ;)THIS THING IS GARBAGE!!! What a joke. F*&# this crap. I hate it. Absolutely freaking worthless piece of trash. WTF were you thinking in trying this[/trolling]J/K. I like the idea. Pretty neat little project for you guys to do and post up everything about it. Good job.Now with my rant above, this rat should delete this comment, but I guess we’ll see how well it really works. :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286568",
"author": "BIOS",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T00:39:25",
"content": "If only I could hook this up to real life :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286572",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T00:45:56",
"content": "@Mike Szczysi agree fullyusing a arduinos in my projects cut time in half and buying arduino pro minis in bulk made it actually much cheaper",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286573",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T00:49:40",
"content": "Cool project but you said “I restuffed the rat and stapled up the seam…”!? WTF, you can build a troll rat but you can’t sew the friggin’ thing up? Besides that its great. (Neat, I’m lighting up a rat!)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286589",
"author": "kernelcode",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T01:39:33",
"content": "Can someone make a rat-sniffing troll?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286590",
"author": "Shadyman",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T01:39:57",
"content": "The Arduino is for blog cred, clearly ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "286602",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T02:18:44",
"content": "@those who are putting trolling comments here seeing if it will detect you,It doesn’t work that way. It is reading the username. Sometimes we have to keep an eye on someone who gets angry and starts ranting but usually is perfectly fine.This is actually more useful for notifying you when that person posts who you really enjoy. Tracking trolls is a bit difficult because if you troll too much, you just get banned.",
"parent_id": "286590",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "286599",
"author": "thane",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T02:12:52",
"content": "Nice Ikea beach countertops and Ikea rat.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286600",
"author": "skuhl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T02:13:42",
"content": "not a hack… can we maybe get a live stream of the troll rat now? “troll rat cam!!!” very cool idea.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286603",
"author": "ENKI-][",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T02:19:54",
"content": "An automatic troll detector would be more interesting, though nontrivial. You’d probably need something like a modern adaptive spam filter for it, though you can catch the really obvious stuff by checking for ALL CAPS or all lowercase or no punctuation (or! excessive! punctuation!!!); add to that swear counts, trivial misspelling counts, and percentage of 4chan meme material / pasta to content and you’ve got something reasonable. R9k’s ruleset could be repurposed as well. A lot of potential for false positives, but again, that’s why you have the rat notify you rather than auto-banning or auto-deleting the comments.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286604",
"author": "localroger",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T02:20:52",
"content": "I like the idea of a LCD display. I think it should be dressed up to look like a miniature rat-sized iPad that the rat is holding in one paw.Hilarious project BTW.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286605",
"author": "Digital",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T02:31:55",
"content": "you guys realize that the alarm goes off every time someone posts the words “arduino” and “no”…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286607",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T02:37:16",
"content": "Obligatory test for any decent Troll detector:“You can’t piss on hospitality. I won’t allow it!”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286614",
"author": "Osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T03:04:55",
"content": "“Sometimes we have to keep an eye on someone who gets angry and starts ranting but usually is perfectly fine.”I’m honored",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286617",
"author": "fahhem",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T03:21:24",
"content": "The Python code you posted is fine, but it will constantly increase in memory usage and slow down due to the dupe checking. You can speed it up to O(log(n)) with the bisect module, though the memory issue still remains. If you don’t use bisect, that means all IDs have been added sequentially so you can do “if len(dupe)>30: dupe = dupe[:len(dupe)/2]” and keep the list at 15-30 entries max. I chose 30 since the feed keeps 15 entries at a time, so you only need 15 entries in dupe to make sure the comment isn’t repeated.Though, really, you only need to keep the list of entries from the last go, so if you kept two lists, last_ids and new_ids, the code changes a little more but memory and speed don’t get used much.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286625",
"author": "James",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T03:53:00",
"content": "Oh come on- why doesn’t he have a vibrate motor in there?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286630",
"author": "iToast",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T04:15:36",
"content": "Mike Szczys, so does the troll alarm work? make a live stream of it :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286636",
"author": "ejonesss",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T04:40:38",
"content": "or better yet you can have your family and do internet.mouse and keyboard in 1 hand your other hand petting your babies and dogs",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286637",
"author": "Greycode",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T04:42:54",
"content": "I love this project, it makes me wish I had a website to build this. But it has started to make me think, who is on the naughty list, and who is on the nice list?How so cool this is.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286640",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T04:45:27",
"content": "HAD’s making a list, and checking it twice. They’re gonna find out who’s naughty or nice. The Trolling Rat is coming, to town.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286644",
"author": "skuhl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T05:11:13",
"content": "I guess i should have read the code… oh well… I still think a live troll rat cam would be cool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286647",
"author": "Chris M",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T05:21:49",
"content": "In an effort to save entropy I suggest the following changes to the python:Grab your first data set before the while True: looprequest = urllib2.Request(‘http://hackaday.com/comments/feed’)opener = urllib2.build_opener()html = opener.open(request)lastMod = html.headers.get(‘last-modified’)Then inside the loop get repeated data:request.add_header(‘If-Modified-Since’,lastMod)try:html = opener.open(request)lastMod = html.headers.get(‘last-modified’)except urllib2.HTTPError as ourError:if ourError.code == 304:pass #page has not changed, chill#perhaps set a flag or break loopelse:raiseI admit this adds the complexity of try…except and urllib2 requests and openers, but I thought it’d be a good PSA for the ‘If-Modified-Since’ http header.Note: the variable names: request, html, lastMod, opener, and ourError are arbitrary.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286648",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T05:21:54",
"content": "@bill lol continue with that song it’d be funny!Anyways nice project yadiyadiyada a live video stream would be cool now for the troll test!This is a stupid project wats the point? It’s a simple piece of shit!Actually I really like the project and I hope it catches this comment",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286649",
"author": "Chris M",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T05:23:01",
"content": "dude, python looks awful when you strip the leading spaces….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286653",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T05:27:04",
"content": "@Willit finds usernames not words in the commentsnow we all have to try our best to stay off the list XD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286659",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T05:44:46",
"content": "(This comment is awaiting moderation)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286663",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T06:02:17",
"content": "@fahhem: Thank you… I appreciate a truly constructive comment!It crossed my mind that the list would become large and I dismissed addressing the issue since I don’t plan to leave this running for more than a day or so at a time (no mid-night wake-ups for me so troll then for maximum effect).But I agree with you, and I plan to incorporate the use of a new and old list. Thanks!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286684",
"author": "dude",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T07:18:16",
"content": "this is a test of the emergency anti troll alert system. this is only a test. had this been an actual emergency…could you add a hit counter to show off the effectiveness of eatas?“eatas has squashed xxx trolls to date”where should were send grammar corrections?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286716",
"author": "mad_max",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T08:51:24",
"content": "This is gangster. You should make a list for grammar/spelling nazis too. Oh, and one for women, because there are only like 4 on the internet and it’s important when they post things.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286745",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T10:46:01",
"content": "I think some people failed to read the write up properly. It says it detects authors who are on some kind of “(unbanned) troll list”, it does not scan the message for “troll like comments or sentances”.Which begs the question, why not just ban the troll IP’s. Are you hoping they may “come good” at some point?!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "286811",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T13:48:32",
"content": "@Smoker_dave,“Are you hoping they may “come good” at some point?!”It actually happens.However, this was meant as a fun little zero cost couple hour project to amuse our readers. What it actually does well is alert us to someone we like(since the name usually stays the same).",
"parent_id": "286745",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "286747",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T10:55:53",
"content": "Maybe they use some software to hide their IP’s?Does my reply also activate the troll alert?I think some Bayesian scanning would work better.(Copy’d the username from the post)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286757",
"author": "Necromant",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T11:45:50",
"content": "@Mike Szczys:Well, I just couldn’t miss the opportunity to test the rat =).If you have an arduino liying around that is indeed simpler. But if you have a bunch of attiny2313 you got for free from a friend, several ready-to-use breakout boards for them with vusb usage kept in mind), a usbasp clone and a ready to use vusb template, that you just have to fill in and type make… why not =)By the way. I think there’s a better way to detect trolls. When one comment gets loads of responses this is 50% the troll feeding, or 50% someone just started a discussion about something interesting. In any way it is usually worth reading.An example:We have a dumb discussion with a troll and several guys feeding it like a one below:someguy: had suckshad_reader1: @someguy you suckhad_reader2: @someguy you suck, idiothad_reader3: @someguy you suck, noob..and the flame goes on…“@someguy” is referred a lot in the comments, so we have a troll probability and fire the alert.Then the algo is simple. We count hom much each name is referenced in the comments, >3 references by different people might be the troll.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286794",
"author": "Neckbeard",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T12:57:50",
"content": "Haha I bet they have an alert set up for me :) Get this shit up on a live stream!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,318.263307
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/19/this-fire-extinguisher-serves-frothy-beverages/
|
This Fire Extinguisher Serves Frothy Beverages
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Beer Hacks"
] |
[
"cornelius",
"extinguisher",
"home brew"
] |
[Ben Krasnow’s] friends always want him to bring a fire extinguisher to their parties, not for safety reasons, but to quench their thirst. You see, [Ben] uses
old fire extinguishers as kegs for his home-brewed beer
. They’re not all that different from the Cornelius kegs that most home brew setups use; they’re intended to dispense liquids under pressure, include a liquid exhaust valve, and a gas pressure valve. All he had to do was clean the stainless steel parts extremely well, replace the gaskets, and modify the input valve to use a quick connect for his CO2 system. For good measure he also added a low pressure meter to let you know the carbonation level.
Recently,
he installed a home tap system
that uses two of the extinguisher kegs. Our favorite part is the refrigerated hose loop that uses a fan to circulate cold air from the fridge all the way to taps.
| 16
| 16
|
[
{
"comment_id": "286490",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T21:09:26",
"content": "Sounds like he did all he could to make it safe for potables, which is very cool of him.Now to find and/or make an appropriately themed drinking vessel!Well done sir!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286510",
"author": "Gilbert Wham",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T21:41:01",
"content": "That’s brilliant. I must make one for my beer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286511",
"author": "arfink",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T21:42:14",
"content": "Cool. Now I know it’s reasonably safe for pressure bearing applications I need to get one for an air cannon…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286516",
"author": "avrpunk",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:07:30",
"content": "It’s too bad he forgot that old fire extinguishers are primarily lead soldered copper sheet. If you do this make sure yours is stainless.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286521",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:22:26",
"content": "Lead soldered? Uh.. i’m no expert but isn’t lead soft and completely useless for pressure containers? :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286535",
"author": "Ryan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-19T22:50:03",
"content": "Avrpunk is right. Almost all solder except the new rhos garbage has at least small amounts of lead and the soldered copper fire extinguishers are no exception.Old copper fire extinguishers might very well have lead in them.As to whether or not drinking a few cups of beer will cause any harm is another matter. Getting your hands on a copper fire extinguisher would be a fairly expensive proposition as well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286558",
"author": "Tecratal",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T00:29:50",
"content": "avrpunk, it states in the first sentence of the 2nd paragraph it is made of stainless which is probably one of his main choices for using it. As far as copper soldered with lead hurting you thats up for debate, for a long time all house plumbing was copper soldered with lead based solder.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286570",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T00:42:38",
"content": "Finally somebody is doing somthing useful with fire extinguishers!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286575",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T00:57:48",
"content": "Old news.My friends made one of these 5 years ago, except we filled it with sprite and vodka.It is know as the “Sober Extinguisher.”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286582",
"author": "Peter Vieth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T01:18:10",
"content": "Way to go Ben!The extinguishers are indeed entirely stainless. They were sort of dirty inside because they’d been sitting outside at a metal yard for who knows how long.Most of the extinguishers do not have a large enough top to actually reach in and clean them out, so if you’re thinking of doing this yourself, look for the ones with a large cap…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286591",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T01:43:53",
"content": "i’ve got a couple of those. can’t see myself drinking from it after using it as a gasoline super soaker AKA flamethrower. so much for the days when gas cost less than milk",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286856",
"author": "mic",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T16:23:45",
"content": "Copper water pipes can handle 100psi, not bad. Seen some plumbing pressure tests done. It’s thirst extinguisher.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286972",
"author": "Abe Froman",
"timestamp": "2010-12-20T20:30:26",
"content": "I once made a bong from this exact same extinguisher.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "288442",
"author": "IsotopeJ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-22T17:47:03",
"content": "Hahah copper extinguishers. Are you talking about the old Soda-Acid ones? I don’t know where commenters get this stuff sometimes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "289337",
"author": "MVFD",
"timestamp": "2010-12-23T20:10:07",
"content": "ive been planing on doing this for awhile just waiting for our new extinguishers to get in at station but as for the people worried about cleaning them out just pour in a 10% bleach water mix with some stainless steel ball bearings and shake it up the ball bearings will knock anything stuck to the inside loose and bleach will kill anything but when you rinse it our be sure to use the cleanest water you can. oh and don’t pressurize it over 100 psi iv seen threads on one fail because someone wanted to try it at 140psi",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "327515",
"author": "Tina",
"timestamp": "2011-02-09T03:41:51",
"content": "Think that fire extinguisher container (empty) used to be a container of toxic chemicals for extinguishing fire. If you recycle the scrap into food container, that would mean something negative to your health. You did what is good for the environment, I salute! It would be good to have the container in the garden for watering plants.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,318.464459
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/14/garage-monitor-has-an-extra-arduino/
|
Garage Monitor Has An Extra Arduino
|
Devlin Thyne
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"Wireless Hacks"
] |
[
"arduino",
"xbee"
] |
[Jody] wanted to know when his garage door was open. He
details
his setup which uses a temperature sensor read by an Arduino to send over XBee radio to a computer running a Windows Service. We have
seen this twice before
, and is noteworthy as a lesson. The XBee radios have the ability to read analog data, relay digital signals, and a lot more. This means the Arduino is completely unnecessary. For example, the
Tweet-a-Watt
uses two of an XBee’s ADCs to measure voltage and current in a Kill-a-Watt power meter. Programming an XBee is really simple, with the help of tutorials from
SparkFun
and
Adafruit
. A bit of programming and soldering should get [Jody] back his Arduino. We hope this note will help you find more creative uses of XBees without microcontrollers.
[Via
Make
]
| 57
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "284249",
"author": "John Avitable",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:01:39",
"content": "Where are all the comments about HAD and arduino hacks?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284251",
"author": "macegr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:05:05",
"content": "This preemptive criticism is a new direction for Hackaday…and one I like. Don’t be afraid to point out inefficient methods of doing things, it’s the best way to encourage progress and streamlined solutions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284253",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:07:54",
"content": "I also like the demeanor of the post. Commend hard work, and provide a next step.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284255",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:09:39",
"content": "but arrrdhhhino there is for points !",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284257",
"author": "Scuzz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:10:10",
"content": "Huzzah! A HaD post pointing out how stupid it was to use an Arduino! Thank you!Arduino: That which makes the phrase “if all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail” completely true.I don’t mean to hate on Arduino too much, it’s a very useful tool, very inappropriately used. A $30 microcontroller platform is not needed for every project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284258",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:11:01",
"content": "everything can use another arduino!@John Avitablethe people who normally complain are to busy resetting AVR fuses right nowthey will pointlessly harass arduino around 6 :3",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284263",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:20:25",
"content": "Haha BiOzZ wins best comment award.Very good post Devlin. I see HaD as a community of very knowledgeable people as well as beginners. This takes [Jody]’s work and explains to a beginner why this implementation was overkill and how to easily solve that problem, saving an Arduino for a more resource-intensive project!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284267",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:25:24",
"content": "yo dawg, i saw you like arduino’s…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284283",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T00:22:42",
"content": "Two pieces of metal making contact will tell you if the door is closed, I guess this helps the economy though, pfff",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284286",
"author": "MRE",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T00:26:40",
"content": "So…. no one has anything to say about using a temperature sensor to signal that a door is open?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284289",
"author": "MRE",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T00:32:10",
"content": "I did check the post. Using a switch for the door, and reading temp for some other reasons.Love that had writing style.Anyway, nifty use of xbee. I didn’t know about the on board adc.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284296",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T00:44:20",
"content": "The Xbee is overkill too!!!You could use an $25 Xbee like HAD says, or a $20 Arduino and a $5 RF link since it only has to be one way.OR you could use a $4 ATtiny and a $5 link and achieve the same result. If we are going to pick on people for overkill, why draw the line at an expensive Xbee?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284302",
"author": "Devlin Thyne",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T00:57:36",
"content": "Or you could use a spark triggered by the door and calculate the temperature based off of the background noise relative to the spark’s signal. But that would not use much of the existing hardware and operation, now would it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284303",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T00:58:19",
"content": "@Bill Porteran avr + board + powersupplly + crystal and misc components will run you WELL over $4 (maybe over $20) and even more if you dont own an ISPthe link will be $10 with both transmitter and receiver than you need a second controller to convert the RF link in to serial than serial to usb and on top of that a bunch of pointless coding and pointless time wasted for a simple 2 xbee 1 breakout board $40 project and not have to deal with the troubles of AVR programming and canceling the noise that can be picked up by the cheep RF transmitter and receiversyou got to think these things threw before ranting about it",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284312",
"author": "Lenny",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:17:05",
"content": "This thread made me think of an interesting idea (stop me if it already exists… and share the link)There should be a section of HAD (or an entirely separate site) dedicated to showing how to de-arduino projects… The arduino is a great platform for rapid prototyping but a lot of people don’t know how to function without it.. what about a site dedicated to informing arduino users instead of just bashing themps… this is nothing against anyones comment or this post. I think this post / thread was mostly constructive and infomative. It just sparked the idea in my head.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284314",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:19:02",
"content": "@BiOzZ,Over $20? No way. I build projects with ATtiny’s well less then $20. Crystal and a 7805 don’t cost over a few bucks. Your right about the RF links though, they are more like $7-8 total.And ‘ease of programming’ is relative. I could much more easily program an AVR then I could program those blasted Xbees. I find there manuals confusing and over-complicated; as well as X-CTU a not very beginner friendly interface.@Devlin, Huh? You would still need hardware to sense the spark and run the calculations, so how does that make sense, even for a rhetorical post?HAD is making fun of this guy for overkill in hardware, when my solution is even less overkill in hardware then HAD’s solution. Yet you pick on me for my way not being ‘easy enough’ and I can argue the the original solution is even more easy than HADs for the guy that did it(newbs), and we’ve come full circle.So who gets to decide where the acceptable ease/degree-of-hardware line is? I say it varies by person.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "284321",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:35:28",
"content": "@ALL,I do believe Devlin was commending this guy on a good job, while also pointing out that he could reclaim his arduino for another project. There was nothing negative here and yes, there are a multitude of ways this could be accomplished if you were starting from scratch.",
"parent_id": "284314",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "284315",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:20:39",
"content": "@Lenny,It’s called college, getting an engineering degree. Then you learn to use uC without crutches.Mostly joking, but you are right, that would be a good idea, if it’s not already somewhere.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284316",
"author": "Osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:20:46",
"content": "to be fair you dont need a crystal as avr’s will run upto 8mhz with the internal oscillator, so that saves a couple right there BiOzZI like the use of a solderless breadboard in an installation that has a perfboard stuck in it along with much of what has already been pointed out",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284319",
"author": "kernelcode",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:32:44",
"content": "@Bill Porter:Would I be right in assuming you went to college a few years back?All you need is an internet connection, Google, and half an idea on how to construct meaningful search queries.(ps. lol @ Chrome thinking Google is a spelling mistake)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284322",
"author": "addids",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:38:17",
"content": "@billporterFirst off he didnt make fun of any one. He said its over kill. It is.second. . .The solution suggested by the author of the post was a simple next evolution of the project. NOT jumping into an engineering degree . Lighten up.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284324",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:40:14",
"content": "@kernelcode,I’m a little lost, are you saying the internet + Google is a acceptable solution to Lenny’s idea, or is one of my posts off? And yes, you are correct.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284326",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:42:51",
"content": "Aside from the flame bait potential, I like that this post really drills down the idea that you *really* don’t need an Arduino for some things. I mean, everyone already knows anything an Arduino is doing can be done more cheaply with an AVR, but to point out that, in fact, no microcontroller at all is needed, is really good.Not because people rely too much on Arduinos, but because people don’t read the datasheets on things they’re using often enough. Like the FTDI bitbang mode, the digital and analog inputs on an XBEE are one of those really nice features that people might not realize unless they read the manual. If they just buy a couple of boards and run serial data, they may not feel the *need* to read the manual, but it is often very helpful.-Taylor",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284328",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T02:00:37",
"content": "I like this information to be out there too. I’m really playing devils advocate here because I think the Xbee is one of the best solutions out there for HAD’s target audience.My point is if we are going to take the time to teach people to better understand the hardware to avoid overkill, let’s give them a few more depths of possible solutions as well. There are tutorials on using ATtiny’s (or equivalent small MCUs) and on using the cheap $8 RF links. Hell, there’s even Arduino cores for ATtinys, and Arduino libraries for the $8 RF links. It nearly as easy to do that as it would be to use an Xbee alone.After-all, the Xbee is the Arduino of the RF world; it has a microprocessor and RF radio that just happen to be on the same chip. It makes wireless easy for those that want it to be easy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284331",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T02:04:06",
"content": "I made something similar back when I was a little kid, except it was an FM transmitter and I had a radio tuned to it inside the house. The transmitter would power off of the door was opened (simple loose wire switch) then the radio would blare static if the garage door was opened.‘Twas good to know when the parents were rolling home ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284336",
"author": "J Harton",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T02:36:05",
"content": "For the door, just attach a small permanent magnet. Place a reed switch on the wall next to the door and run the wires back to where you want them or use an xbee or an rf transmitter/receiver pair to get the signal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284340",
"author": "Wibble",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T02:45:32",
"content": "Ermmm I have a solution that costs £0.00 simply get off your arse and take a look!But still nice post… How about giving Jody a kick in the nuts while your on, imagine if you will, my 5yr old son came up to me and asked about making a torch, after listening to him tell me about how the batteries all go in and the need of some wires and things, I had not said well done son here you go lets try it shall we, but instead just gave him a withering look and said but why use this, that and the other… And then sent him packing tail between his legs, never to bother to try to think about a solution to a problem… (clap clap clap)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284348",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T02:57:54",
"content": "@Taylor Alexander: What you say is true of course but what’s even weirder is that many companies, and sometimes quite big ones, and sometimes big ones with lots of experience in electronics pull stunts like that, most peculiar.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284359",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T03:36:47",
"content": "“a temperature sensor read by AND Arduino…”No one has noticed this yet? Am I just OCD or does that bother other people too?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284361",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T03:39:43",
"content": "@Bill Porterlets do some math!ATtiny85 $3LM7805 $2.5016mhz OSC $1common IC pref board $3250ma PTC $1.25IC socket $1180uH inductor $2standard headers for programming $2a few filtering caps $5basic FTDI breakout $15thats 35.75 than shipping than you need 2 of them (ignoring the second FTDI) thats $56.75 than if you include a RF Link 2400bps Receiver and Transmitter thats about $10 so its $66 when just 2 xbees totaling $40 can do the same exact thing with out all the painful soldering and breakoutsso tell me how your idea is any more efficient?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284365",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T03:50:20",
"content": "Woah BiOzZ,Not sure where those numbers came from but they’re wayyyyy out there from what I’d spend. Also, no FTDI breakouts, why would you need two of those? He uses a virtual COM port… you can use a REAL COM port!Even digikey has transceivers for 7 bucks… comes with all the extra components.Point is, you can definitely make it cheaper if you want to handmake everything. If you want to buy the low level stuff and only work on software/implementation strategies, then xbee or arduino is the way to go.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284367",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T03:59:30",
"content": "Um, because you don’t need 3/4 that crap.ATtiny85 $3LM7805 $2.50IC socket $1common IC pref board $3and done. You don’t even need a crystal.And where are you getting your prices? $5 for filtering caps? Even at Sparkfun’s prices it’s only $.75 for 2.You can partialy argue for programmers/FTDI, but the savings you get from not having to pay for the same hardware on every Arduino negates that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284379",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T04:33:58",
"content": "@Bill Porteryou dont need anything but water and food but you want all of thatif you dont use a crystal the chance of a program fault is very high requiring a reset expecally when dealing with a non-temperature controlled environment like a garageyou want an FDTI breakout because you need to communicate to a computer via USB just like he is doing with his arduinoyou need a PTC or else the IC can fry from any power surge or have the potentialyou need the inductor because of the noise generated by just about every power supply and produced by the ICfor the lm7805 you need 2 104s and 2 electrolytic caps of about 47u to keep things nice and smooth and i buy my 47uf caps in bulks of 2000 so i dont know the price of one but im guessing about $0.50 a peace than a second 104 for the transmitter and receiver so im probably a few dollars off there im sorry?than on top of all of this the avr programmer it self will run you $20 it self@Sporki only included breakout once in the final price i stated that clearlyi got my prices form radioshack and sparkfun to cut down on shippingand he used a USB port … most modern computers dont have an RS232 port so i guessed that if he had the option he would spring for the RS232 arduino and an RS232 level converter is like what $10 if you get the breakout?come on guys where did you leave your freshmen EE? XD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284383",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T04:46:05",
"content": "“i got my prices form radioshack…”Well THERE’S your problem. They scalp you for everything.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284397",
"author": "Scuzz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T05:35:05",
"content": "@BiOzZ“if you dont use a crystal the chance of a program fault is very high requiring a reset expecally when dealing with a non-temperature controlled environment like a garage” — BUH?! I dunno what you mean by this. If you’re running at a low speed this shouldn’t happen. Same goes for a PTC, and frankly, if you’re worried about a surge killing your project, put it on a surge protector! If you lose the project you lose the project, if you invest less money in it you’ll also be less attached to it dying and having to replace some parts.You really don’t need that much smoothing for something like this, unless you’re in desperate need of really smooth power for highly accurate ADC readings, which in this case they can be off a degree or two and he’d be fine. The same thing here goes for the inductor: low frequency noise will be pretty well filtered out by the 7805 and high-frequency noise won’t really effect the circuit.And you are also kind of ignoring the fact that things like an FTDI breakout or “standard headers for programming” are only 1 time costs (assuming he’s using a breadboard). A good hacker should already have a lot of that at his workbench! If he needs a permanent header he could also just buy a huge pack of machine pin headers. Those come in handy all the time and cost next to nothing.Anyway, I think that the point here is really that this project was a bit overkill with the Arduino thrown in there, and that assuming he hacks regularly, there’s not really a good reason not to just buy the parts separately. Especially because it wouldn’t deprive him of future use of the Arduino!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284407",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T06:20:16",
"content": "@BiOzZI didn’t mean to flame, the pricing just seemed outrageous to me. Also I am biased against FTDI chips for USB; people pop them on every board they make and it’s often an unnecessary cost. You could add a ARM processor for under 4 bucks and use it in place of an FTDI if you were going for cheap and effective. — But then you’d want to skip the uC all together because the ARM would do anything you want except the radio.I did forget my freshmen lit class where I learned to read your post (missed the radioshack part), but I haven’t forgotten my EE.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284466",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T09:36:53",
"content": "“can do the same exact thing with out all the painful soldering and breakouts”Come on Biozz, you can admit the truth here. You are not capable to solder. Am I right? You can admit it, we will not laugh at you.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284494",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T11:49:47",
"content": "“come on guys where did you leave your freshmen EE? XD”I left it in the past many years ago.Well, many others have pointed out the ridiculousness of your comment, I won’t bother repeating; other to say I have used ATtinys in many projects with less then $10 worth of parts with no problems.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284499",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T12:08:42",
"content": "Sorry but I just don’t know what all these CAPS devices are about, and probably never will. Nobody has mentioned the price of the 2 transformers to power all this stuff. Wall warts…power vampires! Even the simple reed switch is not needed. The door opener has logic in it and limit switches all ready in place. Open it up and hack to an idiot light. Wires! Any radio link unless xtal controlled will drift, witness those worthless 300mhz cap and coil tuned remote devices. Here in the Midwest it effing cold right now. Piece.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284509",
"author": "Kris Lee",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T13:06:58",
"content": "Is there anything that can provide the same functionality as XBee but would be a wired solution?I mean something really simple and cheap with option to read an analog values over the serial connection.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284557",
"author": "blue carbuncle",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T14:38:04",
"content": "Beyond that there is a $8.00 unit at Target that does the same thing. Even has a nice little LED thingy to stick to your wall that has lights for open or closed…I am still a fan of the old Anarchist Cookbook clothespin/slip of paper switch. I have used those things so often lol. Had several usable as sustain pedals where you simply stretch out the clothespin spring. :)All for these De-Ardy posts :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284561",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T14:45:31",
"content": "$225.00 in parts to do this… wow.Tomorrow on HAD how to use a $4500.0 Cisco Router as a 2 port ethernet switch!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284562",
"author": "ZotDitzMyo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T14:46:03",
"content": "I am curious about the precision of the door position. Is a switch with this little action sufficient? Or should something with a longer throw be used to be safe?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284563",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T14:50:27",
"content": "12f675 – $1.25DS1820 – $1.99434 RF transmitter $4.00battery holder case for project -$4.00perf board to build it. $0.90All done and it will run for 2 years on a set of 3 AA batteries.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284590",
"author": "fooo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:22:49",
"content": "So is it possible using the XBEE only to also control the garage door? I’ve been wanting to wire my garage door and write an android app to open and close it (and to tell me weither it’s open or closed) so I can use my phone as a garage door opener.I was initially thinking about using an arduino and a wifi shield but that seemed pricey.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284599",
"author": "twistedsymphony",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:40:21",
"content": "you know… I bought a sensor for my garage door that tells me if it’s open or closed. it’s a little adhesive backed device that sticks on the door, and a receiver in the house with a red/green LED pair (red= open, green = closed)It’s cost me $12 at home depot, took less than 2 minutes to “install” and it’s run for the last 5 years on the originally included set of batteries.I’m all for hacks, but when something so simple, cheap, and ubiquitous already exists, why spend the time and money reinventing the wheel?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284622",
"author": "a canuck",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T17:49:58",
"content": "@fooo: yes it is possible to control the garage door with the XBee. There are several digital I/O pins on the XBEE which you should be able to connect to the back of your garage door opener. (properly buffered or via a relay etc.) I think you may need one of the API supported models to remotely query or set a digital I/O pin over serial.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284626",
"author": "Doc Oct",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T18:15:26",
"content": "Community Service Announcement for those of you who don’t speak British: A torch is a flashlight.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284627",
"author": "d3c4f",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T18:22:06",
"content": "WOW!This went from someone using what they had/knew to accomplish a simple task to an EE pissing match. They may not even want to redesign the whole project as it is working. Their time is worth something, I highly doubt this is being mass-produced as a product (which could be done for $2-4/set). It may not be the way some of you would do it (with a greater understanding of electronics, etc); however, I highly doubt that in this instance the person wanted to spend hours/days/weeks/years learning how to do this for $20-30 cheaper and just wanted to make it work now.I mean if you want to go lowest price, the simplest thing may be to install a pulley and a flag so they can look out the window and see if the door is open. Or a mirror out on the sidewalk. Or run some cheap 24ga wire to the sensors. Or use a $7 pair of Wal-Mart walkie-talkies,a couple wal-warts, switches, transistors, and lights.Bottom line is he got it done how he wanted. The ‘next step’ for him may be just to leave it. (Though I would reclaim the Arduino. lol)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284742",
"author": "tehgringe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T23:53:11",
"content": "Its probably the dudes first project. It’s an arduino kit board, with the protoboard glued onto some black plastic.Well done HAD, a good reference and what I like to see. How to progress, a nice approach to balance the accurate, but unhelpful observations normally made in these comments.Also, +1 to the yo dawg reference I spotted further up in the comments.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284765",
"author": "Jody",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T00:30:17",
"content": "Hey guys, thanks for the comments, criticism and all. Yes, I could have built this w/o an Arduino but it was my first attempt at solving an actual problem instead of just making some lights blink.Feel free to drop me a line on the blog with suggestions. For me it’s all about learning how it’s done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,318.406936
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/14/inventing-robot-athletes/
|
Inventing Robot Athletes
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"athletic",
"leg",
"muscle",
"pneumatic"
] |
The human body is an amazing instrument from an engineering standpoint. Replicating just one part of it proves extremely difficult but
these athletic legs
show a lot of promise. This is the work of a Japanese researcher named [Ryuma Niiyama]. He’s been working on the design for years, and is now using pneumatic actuators to mimic the muscles in a human leg. The lower portion of the leg uses a spring mechanism that resembles some running prosthetics currently in use. These serve as a spring to store energy and reuse it by bouncing against the ground. He’s trying to teach his robot to use these legs; taking it through a learning process necessary to use the thigh actuators for locomotion and balance. We were surprised at how life-like the motion in the video after the break is. Even when falling down the movements are very life-like. We thought the movements of
Little Dog
were real enough to be creepy, and this robot may be close enough to our own mannerisms to fall into
the uncanny valley
.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXqUjiNw8fo&w=470]
[via
Bot Junkie
]
| 19
| 19
|
[
{
"comment_id": "284237",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T22:18:43",
"content": "Looks like he’s using air muscles as seen in other projects. I made a pair of these muscles out of silicon tubing and vinyl sheathing. I was impressed with how strong and resilient they are. The downside is controlling them. The most affordable solution I found was 2x $9 solenoid valves for controlling inflation and venting of each muscle. We got a pair of the muscles working but it was rather obvious that the bulk of all valves would make the robot we were building either way too big or way too expensive. It was a great learning experience though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284266",
"author": "DJ Gordinho",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:24:11",
"content": "it made me cry",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284271",
"author": "dm",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:46:12",
"content": "I think that the diagram is going to give me nightmares remembering system dynamics.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284272",
"author": "roboman2444",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:47:35",
"content": "hmmm… This learning (and mostly failing to go past 10 meters) reminds me of that QWOP game.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284276",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T00:09:53",
"content": "I wish they’d stop claiming ‘progress’ until they get a robot that can stand up on its own. There is nothing indicating progress about yet another robot that falls flat on its face after 3-5 steps.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284295",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T00:41:51",
"content": "if we can make balancing robotsand robot legswhy can’t we make balanced robot legs?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284307",
"author": "Simonious",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:11:52",
"content": "Give it some arms, they really help with balance.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284368",
"author": "Gregg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T03:59:57",
"content": "Or a tail, tails allow you to balance really well.Although that could lead to robo-raptors, mebby I shouldn’t have suggest a tail…..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284441",
"author": "Dan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T07:24:28",
"content": "Reminds me of the feet attachments from Portal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284456",
"author": "Pa55w0rD",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T08:36:36",
"content": "I agree they shouldn’t claim “progress” until they can get the robot walk without falling with weapons loaded",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284572",
"author": "paolo spin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T15:38:52",
"content": "well, it was just an awkward fact in nature to have a strange being walking (so good) on 2 (thin) legs.and i can hardly imagine the number of neural connections activated to walk on mountain rocks.‘feeling’ is so different from ‘computing’,as it is from ‘falling’.great video though!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284602",
"author": "pod",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:45:22",
"content": "can’t wait for the cyberpunk limbs we are going to get in 20 years, once they develop these kind of projects",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284607",
"author": "cj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:53:40",
"content": "I winced when the torso fell, and was actually thinking ‘ow, that’s hard on the kneecaps.’. Empathy is often not your friend.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284617",
"author": "dcd",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T17:35:35",
"content": "I’d have to agree with M4CGYV3R.This is progress:http://www.bostondynamics.com/robot_petman.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284701",
"author": "Shaun",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T21:47:34",
"content": "Agreed…they have not floored me with the progress made…unless the creepy little robot thing had been DRINKING and that was a stumbling drunk SIM…then it rocked.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285061",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T18:54:23",
"content": "@Pa55w0rDWeapons? I guess we’re just that different cause my first thought was “arms and head”. Followed by “service robots helping the elderly”. But i guess a few miniguns and a flamethrower would be interesting too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285112",
"author": "Dante",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T21:07:39",
"content": "the movement look like a real human leg!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285446",
"author": "Gert",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T13:46:18",
"content": "Reminds me ofhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1czBcnX1Ww",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293325",
"author": "Kea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T22:30:57",
"content": "Give it feet, the human foot isnt just a nub for walking on, it helps balance us by using the muscles in it, sure humans can walk without the aid of the foot but it makes it a LOT easier.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,318.319129
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/14/make-your-own-minimalist-avr-isp/
|
Make Your Own Minimalist AVR ISP
|
Chris Nelson
|
[
"Microcontrollers",
"Tool Hacks"
] |
[
"attiny",
"AVR",
"isp",
"usbtiny"
] |
Giving a programmer is a great way to get people started in microcontrollers so If you want
a cheap simple AVR programmer
this might just be what you’re looking for. It combines the
V-USB
firmware,
USBtiny
software, a few resistors, and some zener diodes. An interesting trick using this programmer is if your trying to program another 8 pin ATtiny you can use some tape to isolate the USB data pins and then piggyback the target ATtiny on the programmer.
Unfortunately in order to flash the ATtiny for your programmer you need a working programmer so it’s somewhat of a catch-22. Make sure your careful when setting the fuse bits because it will use the reset pin making it hard to reprogram
without additional programming hardware
. AVRs in general are a great way to start using microcontrollers so if your interested
give out tutorials a go
. You’ll find some tips to get started in addition to information about using an Arduino, or a DAPA cable to flash the firmware to this chip.
| 31
| 30
|
[
{
"comment_id": "284158",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T20:00:11",
"content": "It’s nice, it’s simple…But for a little more you can build a similar one with tiny2313 that doesn’t give up the reset pin.(And i think that the tiny 2313 si cheaper than the ’85 too).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284177",
"author": "TS",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T20:27:00",
"content": "Chris. Please learn the difference between your and you’re.Thanks",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284178",
"author": "Robot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T20:30:01",
"content": "It seems that HaD has some amount of investment in the Amtel AVR platform. Is this simply due to the Arduino platform being based on AVR? Or am I missing something about the AVR that makes it stand out among the crowd of C programmable microcontrollers?Thanks,Robot",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "284179",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T20:32:53",
"content": "@Robot,Generally we tend to write about what the authors know. The AVR is popular here for sure, but it doesn’t have anything to do with the Arduino. If we had a PIC person on the staff, you’d see tutorials on that as well.",
"parent_id": "284178",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "284180",
"author": "Grammar police",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T20:34:38",
"content": "It’s “you’re”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284182",
"author": "Robot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T20:40:20",
"content": "@Caleb Ah, thank you. I was wondering if I was wasting my time on other products. . . engineering paranoia I guess! Thanks for all of the great posts.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284183",
"author": "jbremnant",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T20:42:43",
"content": "Nice, great job simpleavr!I think he has the write up also on his blog.http://www.simpleavr.com/avr/vusbtiny",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284186",
"author": "Rob T.",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T20:46:34",
"content": "There are a number of options for programming an AVR without the chicken and egg problem of needing a programmer to program the AVR in your programmer. It depends on what hardware you have around. My favorite option is the Bus Pirate, it’s a useful swiss army knife type tool that programs AVRs with AVRdude.Other options:– An arduino, (See ArduinoISP sketch).– FTDI Bitbang, if you have any TTL level FTDI USB serial adapters around.– Bit bang serial or paraller port, DASA or DAPA programming cables.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284188",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T20:49:53",
"content": "@RobotI can’t speak for HaD, but the usual preference for the 8-bit AVRs is the open source toolchain. Windows people are generally not going to be influenced by IP issues.My 2 cents.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284190",
"author": "Daid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T20:51:59",
"content": "I used DAPA to bootstap my ATMega8 into an USB programmer. From that I’ve bootstrapped multiple other USB programmers for other people.But that’s not the hack here. The brilliant part here is the piggybacking. I’ve been thinking about doing this, but then the other way around, piggyback your programmer on the chip you want to program, then you can program any chip in circuit, without special ISP headers.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284193",
"author": "Rob T.",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T21:03:12",
"content": "@Robot, just my option but there are several things that I think contribute to the recent popularity of the AVR. They don’t apply to everyone, but they were factors for me:– Open source, multi-platform tools, see the avr-gcc tool chain. Note: this is changing as Microchip is working on cross platform tools.– AVRs generally can be programmed with in-circuit voltages. High voltage is usually only needed when the configuration (fuse) bytes get mis-set, preventing further programming of the chip.– Natural progression from Arduino to “bare” AVRs.– Simpler / more limited part selection. 8 bit avr projects tend to use a small number of AVRs, the ATmega328/168, the ATTiny2313/4313 and the ATTiny85/45. I usually have one from each of the three pin lying around.– The same programmer, avrdude, works with most of the chips and most of the available programmers.Just my opinions, not trying to start a war.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284211",
"author": "ColinB",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T21:21:32",
"content": "Microchip has not had open-source-friendly compilers. AVR has tons of open source support, it has Arduino which brings in lots of new users (and this is IMHO a Good Thing even if they don’t get deep in the MCU details at first with the Arduino language/environment). AVR seems to me cleaner to program in C and C++ although it still requires more non-standard things than ARM Cortex-M3 (e.g., accessing constant data in flash memory).Lately, I think AVR is great for really low power, simple apps requiring 2 KB or less of SRAM, running on batteries, etc., but ARM Cortex-M3/Cortex-M0 completely dominates the area of greater than 4 KB SRAM or requiring higher performance. Compare an NXP LPC1700 ARM Cortex-M3 with a comparable AVR:Atmel ATmega640-16AU (AVR ATmega):64 KiB flash / 8 KiB SRAM / 16 MHz / 8-bit CPU / $11.80 (@1u, Mouser)NXP LPC1752FBD80,551 (ARM Cortex-M3):64 KiB flash / 16 KiB SRAM / 100 MHz / 32-bit CPU / $7.10 (@1u, Mouser)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284218",
"author": "Robot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T21:41:39",
"content": "@Rob, Colin, et al.Thanks, I will keep your points in mind. I can see the advantage of having a wide user base that is open source minded.– Robot",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284228",
"author": "simpleavr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T22:00:09",
"content": "@Roboti think it’s really the availability of open source tools and the fact that AVRs are more easily accessible that makes them popular. lately i do more w/ TI’s msp430s, with the G series value line available (LaunchPad, etc) and more mature linux toolchain, i am sure we will see more projects on the ti platform.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284232",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T22:08:43",
"content": "I’m not an expert so feel free to correct me here. In response to Rob T from a Microchip perspective:1. Can’t add anything here2. PICs can also be programmed in circuit and unlike AVRs you can’t really “brick” them (they don’t need high voltage to fix configurations mess ups)3. Doesn’t apply4. Some may find that a good thing, others like myself prefer the massive amounts of option Microchip offers. Nothing stops you from using just a handful of chips that you like but you also have to option to get very specific chips for your application.5. Not sure what the function of avrdude is but as far as programmers go the PICKit 2 (or 3) is dirt cheap and handles the majority of PICs out there.In general though, pick the platform that you feel comfortable with. They all do basically the same thing, some are better at some things, others are better at other things. Don’t get caught up in the “fan war” and keep an open mind.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284234",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T22:11:27",
"content": "Please disregard the multitude of spelling/word errors in my previous post… that’s what I get for being lazy and not reading through my own text before posting.HaD, give us the ability to edit, please!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284236",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T22:15:37",
"content": "+1 for ninth grade grammar.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284240",
"author": "r_d",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T22:29:22",
"content": "@sneakypoo:“PICs can also be programmed in circuit and unlike AVRs you can’t really “brick” them”Although HaD might have you believe that AVR fuse bits go awry if you so much as look at them funny, it’s a pretty uncommon problem if you can read a data sheet.“Not sure what the function of avrdude is but as far as programmers go the PICKit 2 (or 3) is dirt cheap and handles the majority of PICs out there.”AVRDude is actually some front-end software for a bunch of programmers. “Front-end” might not be the best choice of words, as it can do some pretty low-level stuff like parallel-port bit-banging, but I think you get the gist of it. It’s a command-line tool that interfaces with programming hardware. It’s effectively a single de-facto standard for AVR programming software.The issue here isn’t necessarily price, but availability and convenience. Yeah, you might be able to pick up some commercial PIC programming hardware for cheap, but an AVR can be programmed with a parallel cable and three resistors, and more sophisticated DIY plans are available (USBTinyISP, etc.) that are both well-tested and well-supported. I’m not big on trusting manufacturers for support, and commercial programming hardware is a liability as far as I’m concerned.But that’s really just my opinion as a hobbyist and free software goon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284247",
"author": "Frank",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T22:59:33",
"content": "“if your trying to program”“Make sure your careful”“so if your interested”Christ! That’s 3 fails in quick succession. Please check this site out –http://www.youryoure.com/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284252",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:05:23",
"content": "@r_dyou can just as well program most PICs with three resistors, but it inconvenient so microchip offer probably the cheapest in price and richest in features programmer/debugger on the marked. And belive me microchip have great support they know engineers have no time on BS like this",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284290",
"author": "fdawg4l",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T00:33:57",
"content": "@FrankI was cringing at every instance. Thank you for beating me to the punch.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284313",
"author": "kernelcode",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:17:42",
"content": "@The AVR vs PIC crowd:Bravo on the flame-free discussion! I use AVRs because I could get a USBasp programmer for £10, whereas the PICkit2/3 (I forget which) was nearer £40. Though saying that, I have since used a PICkit 3 at uni and must admit the breakpoints/debugging capability of MPLAB(? is that what it’s called?) and a PICkit was pretty useful.The thing that clinched it for me was avr-gcc (etc), seemed like there was much more available for AVR + linux than PIC + linux.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284339",
"author": "simpleavr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T02:38:36",
"content": "@kernelcodethat’s how i got into avr’s (at90s1200 back then) w/ a diy parallel port programmer, it’s very affordable to begin exploring.you might now consider the ti msp430, decent msp430-gcc tool-chain, mspdebug (avr-dude equivalent) and a $4.30 launchpad usb programmer w/ debugging support, plus two 16bit MCUs.hack-a-day has good tutorials on it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284414",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T06:37:19",
"content": "I do EE at work regularly and we work with PICs/AVRs/Arduinos/ARMs and sometimes just good old transistor logic. It’s really all about picking what fits your needs the best… or if you’re a hobbyist (like I had been for years prior to this job) it’s all about making what you have work for everything.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284482",
"author": "Daid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T10:37:12",
"content": "About the AVR ‘bricking’ and needing high voltage programming. It’s impossible to disable the low voltage ISP with only low voltage ISP. So you cannot brick them like that!Straight from the ATMega32 datascheet, page 257, Note 1: “The SPIEN Fuse is not accessible in SPI Serial Programming mode.”The ATTiny45 might be an exception on this, but in general you cannot ISP brick your AVRs.You can enable an external crystal and don’t have one on your board, that ‘bricks’ them, but by adding a crystal on your programmer that’s easily solved.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284486",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T11:11:21",
"content": "You can brick them if you make the reset pin a generai IO. This way you cannot program them via ISP, even though ISP is enabled.But i keep a general rule not to disable the reset. I’ll neved know when i’ll need an extra micro for a project and have to ‘steal’ from an old one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284553",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T14:24:11",
"content": "You can brick the AVR if you set the fuse setting to external but do not have an external oscillator! Even so, if you have a sig gen knocking about you can still get it back online.I have actually used both PIC and AVR for hobby and professional use. I like both. The Atmel rep came the other week and gave me a load of free goodies (including AVR dragon) which is always a bonus!I will say however that there are people in industry who I have heard saying AVR are not as robust as the PIC. This was in terms of passing EMC requirements for products placed in an industrial market.In terms of functionality, ease of use etc they are almost identical.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284618",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T17:36:45",
"content": "It’s a shame there isn’t more PIC articles, I kinda like the little buggers.The PICkit2 is dirt cheap too, and makes programming a breeze.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284721",
"author": "kernelcode",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T22:57:02",
"content": "@simpleavrYeah saw that when it was first released – almost jumped on it straight away but the lack of linux support (initially) kinda scuppered me. Plus the fact I’m in the UK. Anyhow, it’s probably worth me having another look!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "777604",
"author": "Lizardboy",
"timestamp": "2012-09-09T19:45:44",
"content": "Well the number one reason for avr over pic for me is Bascom I write most simple programs in it and would switch chips to use it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "4382971",
"author": "Hack ISP",
"timestamp": "2018-03-01T09:12:20",
"content": "Recommended share and discussion for the newbie like me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,318.981177
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/14/my-reprap-is-bigger-than-yours/
|
My RepRap Is Bigger Than Yours
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"cnc hacks"
] |
[
"3d printer",
"fume",
"pid",
"reprap"
] |
This 3D printer build
is a thing of beauty. It prints in ABS plastic on quite a large base. The platform provides all of the X and Y movement, making the gantry stationary except for the Z axis. it is possible to print parts up to about 15″x15″ by 13″ high. The gray hose snaking down around the right side of the print head is a fume extractor, keeping the air clear around the PID controlled head, and heated base. Judging from the example items this prints with fantastic accuracy.
[via
Make
]
| 26
| 25
|
[
{
"comment_id": "284119",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T18:33:19",
"content": "Doesn’t the fume extractor cause cooldowns and warps the model?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284123",
"author": "d3c4f",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T18:43:29",
"content": "Maybe… But I’m going to go out on a limb here and guess that they knew what they were doing. ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284126",
"author": "robert",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T18:49:05",
"content": "@Hackius, Eh. the airflow required to get the fumes out is minimal. i doubt the difference would be more than a degree or two.Side note….god i dont want to think how much that 80/20 costs….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284128",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T18:53:23",
"content": "Simply amazing. How much could it cost?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284129",
"author": "stunmonkey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T18:54:03",
"content": "look on ebay for the 80/20. they have a store there called “80/20 garage sale” or something. they sell scraps, odd lots, leftovers, cosmetic issue items, and stuff someone misdrilled with an odd hole or two already in it.trust me, what they consider ‘scrap’ is anything under like 6 feet. plenty for our needs. i bought like 2 grand worth of 80/20 from them for a few hundred bucks.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284131",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T18:59:33",
"content": "Yeah the reprap is a brilliant project. Ive wanted one since the first beta posts on it came out. One of these days, Im gonna save up and find some one to print me one. If I was rich I would donate a bunch to the reprap team.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284133",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T19:01:36",
"content": "PS this is NOT a true reprap.Reprap is by definition a self replicating 3d printer. IE it can print it self . Once you have one you can duplicate them. This is made of metal not plastic so I dont think the guys at reprap would condone calling it a reprap. Much the same as the thing o mattic , is not a reprap.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "284135",
"author": "Aaron",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T19:05:29",
"content": "Come on…. There doesn’t exist a reprap that can actually print itself. The leadscrews and electronics are an issue. Just because this doesn’t have little pieces of printed plastic holding the edges together is a pretty poor reason to deny it a reprap name.",
"parent_id": "284133",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "284137",
"author": "robert",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T19:08:40",
"content": "@addidis, we know. Its Reprap based. Much like the makerbot.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284139",
"author": "robert",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T19:11:43",
"content": "@stunmonkey functionally and aesthetically the 80/20 is fantastic. But i cant justify spending even a few hundred on scrap.My entire 3d Sugar printers budget could easily fit in just the cost of the support material here. Not that im knocking the project, im just broke, and if i had the cash every thing from my projects to my bed frame would be made of 80/20.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284142",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T19:26:28",
"content": "@robert yah its trivial i agree, This is an excellent build though. Definitely in no way knocking the build. If im being honest , im insanely jealous.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284143",
"author": "Adam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T19:28:08",
"content": "As a long time lurker of CNCzone I can say that 80/20 is well worth the extra cost. There is no need to weld, which if done improperly leads to thermal warping. In addition it takes t-slot hardware that makes for secure quick connections. Being aluminum its light and if you’re brave can be cut accurately with a table saw. Like stunmonkey said you can get it on ebay and if you’re design is flexible you can wait for a great deal. What im amazed by is the quality of the parts this machine is making.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284145",
"author": "GordonEndersby",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T19:33:18",
"content": "I wish you wouldnt keep showing these 3D printers as one of these days Ill have to have a go and it will effect my wallet and my marriage.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284146",
"author": "mjrippe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T19:40:04",
"content": "Dear Santa…’nuff said.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284195",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T21:04:35",
"content": "I like that the table handles X and Y. This is how nearly every normal CNC machine works, and it makes sense. Though I guess on 3D printing you don’t want to knock over your work by moving too quickly. I guess since you generally move slowly its not that big of a concern?And this machine does look great. Most of the little 3D printers look too feeble. If this machine actually produces better parts, I feel like it would be well worth it.I’d really like to see an estimate for the cost. Aren’t commercial 3D printers down to like $12k now?-Taylor",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284197",
"author": "tzangcr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T21:07:36",
"content": "@stunmonkey: “8020 Inc Garage Sale”, which I coincidentally bookmarked just the other day:http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale@robert, Adam: I’ve been pondering a DIY CNC build recently, and have wondered about 8020 for framing. I deduced that the additional cost goes towards a sturdier, and therefore, more accurate machine. I’m mostly planning on cutting wood, and some light aluminum (Tesla Turbine blades, for example), would a lesser structure suffice? I realize this ultimately depends on the build size, but I think it’d be best to save such detail for the CNCZone.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284198",
"author": "ColinB",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T21:09:09",
"content": "Regarding the “RepRap” term: OK, so maybe it’s impractical to print everything down to leadscrews and silicon wafers for transistors on the machine, but the *spirit* of RepRap is that the machine can reproduce a significant portion of itself. What fraction of this machine’s parts can it produce itself? 1%? Maybe just the plastic nozzle for the fume extractor?It’s a 3D printer, not a RepRap.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284205",
"author": "Toolboy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T21:12:06",
"content": "It’s not about size, it’s what you do with it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284224",
"author": "robert",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T21:46:58",
"content": "@tzangcr What a magical place that is! Thanks for the link.For 3d printing the strength of the frame is not really an issue as long as its rigid. Since your going to be milling (especially if you will be working with metal) the frame needs to be as solid as possible, I would go with the 80/20 if i were you.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284245",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T22:54:04",
"content": "@tzangcrCNC machinist here chiming in to agree with Robert above me. Rigidity is extremely important if you start working with metals, for both repeatability, and machine/tool deflection. If the machine flexes, it will just move out of the way when it tries to cut something. That will also hurt repeatability, which limits your ability to make intricate parts. I personally wouldn’t want a CNC with anything worse than 0.001″-0.003″ repeatability if I wanted to make many useful things out of metal. I’d shudder to think of what would happen if I had, say, 0.010″ repeatability. Again, it all depends, but if you want to make something that spins fast like a tesla turbine, you certainly want good repeatability.But I have the luxury of being able to work with $70k HAAS CNCs, so I’m spoiled. I’m sure home CNCs with even 0.020″ repeatability or maybe even worse would have their uses. But anyway, you can see how, if 0.003″ is my worst case, you’d want a rigid machine. You’d be amazed at how much this stuff makes a difference.-Taylor",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284301",
"author": "Igor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T00:50:58",
"content": "So Mr. Alexander, I work at a die and production facility that is slowly but surely being automated and am also tinkering with bowing a grand on a home built cnc. Most likely a ‘large’ desktop model with a barely used fourth axis. Any suggestions on something better than 80/20? We use it in scratch built automation and it is just okay for that purpose. Or for that matter a decent high torque spindle. I was thinking about getting just a 2 1/4hp bosch router and machining a gearbox to about 1:60 however I lack the money or clout with the boss to sneak in the gearing with a heat treating run and fear for the 35,000rpm interconnect gear becoming severely warped.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284350",
"author": "swighton",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T03:12:26",
"content": "I wonder what the stiffness/play of the lower build platform is with the double stacked linear bearings, particularly with the relatively small top one. Its probably not an issue with RP.Totally sweet machine though – very jealous.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284369",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T04:04:22",
"content": "@Igor – I actually don’t even know what 80/20 is, but its clearly some of that pre-made metal bracket stuff. I’ve seen it plenty before but never used it. When I make something, I generally custom fab every part, so to make a big frame, I might contract with the local laser/waterjet cutter to have him make the large parts out of plate, and then I’d make brackets to bolt everything together. Or make things out of tube with custom brackets. But I’ve never made a CNC. I’d focus on rigidity and use thick plate and billet brackets for everything, if not just make everything out of billet.Do what I did – find a company that could use a CNC but doesn’t have one, and then learn to use them and have them buy one. Then you learn with it, and get free range. Did that right after college, and 4 years later I feel like I can make anything. Plus, it saved the company money versus outside machine shops and improved our ability to make better products! :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284591",
"author": "CubeSpawn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T16:24:35",
"content": "This IS an awesome build, and I can only echo all the positive comments about 80/20.Rapid prototyping is another excellent fabrication method, but multiple processes are still needed to make complete machines.There are a number of other T-slot companies as well, like Bosch, Faztek, etc, this is a German Idea from the late 60’s, early 70’s that seems to finally be getting broad popularity outside of conventional manufacturing.Here is another project using t-slot:http://www.cubespawn.com– I, too am poor – but I’m using T-slot because it has too many advantages to ignore – hopefully CubeSpawn will be melting and extruding t-slot and maker-beam in <5 years -from beverage cans and other scrap!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "433524",
"author": "lasereyes",
"timestamp": "2011-08-13T00:04:56",
"content": "Its a repstrap.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "998652",
"author": "JJTime",
"timestamp": "2013-04-27T20:46:11",
"content": "As long as the gantry is stationary, why are 4 legs needed? ? ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,318.731351
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/14/avr-hv-rescue-shield-2/
|
AVR HV Rescue Shield 2
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"AVR",
"hvp",
"hvpp",
"hvsp",
"jeff keyzer",
"mightyohm",
"shield"
] |
[Jeff Keyzer] has
a new version of the HV Rescue Shield
available. This tool allows you to use an Arduino to reset the fuse bits on AVR microcontrollers. This is necessary if you make a mistake and disable the reset pin, or choose the incorrect clock settings (this will probably happen to you at some point). In order to bring the chip back to life you’ll need to use High Voltage Programming. The last version of the shield only worked with High Voltage Parallel Programming (HVPP) but this rendition can also use High Voltage Serial Programming (HVSP) for 8-pin chips that don’t have enough inputs for parallel communications.
As we talked about in
our AVR Programming Tutorials
this is no replacement for a high-end programmer like the STK500 or an AVR Dragon, but if you already have an Arduino a kit will only cost you $20 (or you can etch and build it yourself). We would have liked to see a breakout header for the HVP signals for off-board use. The absence of a breakout header doesn’t preclude this, but since you need the on board boost converter for the 12V signals, and because this shield can’t be used with a breadboard due to pin spacing, it’s hard to patch into signals for non-DIP use. We also think some clever firmware hacking and this could be used for HV programming, like we needed for that
LED light bulb
.
| 10
| 10
|
[
{
"comment_id": "284073",
"author": "Martin Espinoza",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T17:03:35",
"content": "So wait, if you don’t have $25 for a USB STK500 2.0 knockoff, you can spend $20 on a shield that does virtually nothing in comparison? And I say unto thee, feh.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284078",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T17:09:02",
"content": "i have never set a fuse wrong but there is a first for everything (knowing my clumsy ass) but do they sell these things as commercial standalone products?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284080",
"author": "Brent",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T17:12:00",
"content": "You’ve run another project like this before:http://hackaday.com/2010/05/17/magically-repair-avr-chips/I still don’t see the point when the Dragon is $49 and gives you in-circuit debugging. If you can afford to put this kind of hack on a custom PCB, you can afford a real in-circuit programmer/debugger.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284087",
"author": "ss",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T17:31:05",
"content": "Unless a firmware update in the last year fixes it, the dragon can’t do HVPP for the 328p:http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=70678",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284088",
"author": "vtl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T17:31:55",
"content": "$20 for a board to rescue a chip thats worth considerably less than that? Looks like youd be better off just breadboarding this. Why would you want to go thru the pain of ething a pcb for this? Surely you should spend that effort not programming it wrong in the first place. Or have i missed something?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284117",
"author": "rsbohn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T18:26:26",
"content": "Perhaps it’s the Lazarus Effect. Restoring life to a bricked chip gives you an awesome feeling. Yeah, you could buy a Dragon or throw this together on a breadboard, but a quick plug-in solution for that Arduino you already own has its place.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284227",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T21:58:44",
"content": "maybe you were doing a small production and things went wrong, this could helpor maybe you could get a ton of dissabled avrs for cheap and just restore themi like his dc-dc converter therejeff’s pretty cool",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284269",
"author": "Brent",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T23:32:35",
"content": "OK, I’m dense. The appeal of these things is that one can reset fuses without leaving arduino-land.BTW, where’s the $25 USB STK500 clone?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284373",
"author": "pwnr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T04:09:24",
"content": "Guess its a good thing I live in the silicon desert…got my stk500 for $2.00 at goodwill…still trying to find time to play with it to see if it works, but it powered up!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284754",
"author": "MoJo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T00:12:55",
"content": "Build one on stripboard without the Arduino:http://denki.world3.net/avr_rescue.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,318.673379
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/13/mp3-player-barely-larger-than-an-sd-card/
|
MP3 Player Barely Larger Than An SD Card
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"digital audio hacks"
] |
[
"18fl88",
"mp3",
"pic",
"player",
"sd",
"vs1011"
] |
If your board fabrication and soldering skills are up to it, you can make your own
tiny MP3 player
. This rendition is just about half again as large as a standard SD card, whose slot is on the bottom of the board seen above. The heavy lifting is taken care of by
a VS1011 MP3 decoder
which also has its own stereo headphone driver on-chip. There’s no display and it seems that most of the 4k of program memory on the PIC 18LF88 is being used. Too bad, we’d love to take this to the next level, attaching it to the head unit in a car and spoofing the communications as if this were a CD changer.
[via
Hacked Gadgets
]
| 45
| 41
|
[
{
"comment_id": "283705",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T23:31:30",
"content": "wow DIY devices are catching up to the pro ones!now lets get a touchscreen in there ^.^",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283710",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T23:38:21",
"content": "Very incomplete project, but hey it’s a start and might give birth to something, you get a layout and sourcecode, and the rest is up to the inventive I guess.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283714",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T23:49:02",
"content": "“Too bad, we’d love to take this to the next level”…. OK, then use a different micro? This site is supposed to be about hacking yet the write up seems to imply that modifying this design is not an option. Derp!@WhatnotThere’s no display. Source code not necessary. The code for this is obviously very very trivial!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283716",
"author": "TopHat",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T23:50:22",
"content": "this is years oldhttp://teuthis.com/html/mmc_mp3.htmlI actually purchased one of these kits back in 2006? 07?Teuthis made the Daisy mp3 player for Make also I believe.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283717",
"author": "TopHat",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T23:51:45",
"content": "The picture of the board even says “squid 2006”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283719",
"author": "Bill D. Williams",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T23:54:01",
"content": "That board looks home etched. I guess it’s not.Too bad. I’m looking for a good solution for making vias on home etched double sided 2- layer PCBs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283721",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T23:54:38",
"content": "It’s from 2006, now you would use an STM32F100 which has a smaller footprint, more IO, and 16K memory instead of 4… you can also EASILY use USB interface to dump songs so you don’t need an SD card reader.Very cool to have this as a starting point though. Mike, I know you’re a writer for HaD and not necessarily an EE, but if you could throw some info in like I’m posting it would keep the comments less cluttered/confused.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283725",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T23:59:42",
"content": "@Bill D. WilliamsUsually using something like this:http://www.cif.fr/new/produits_aff.php3?cat=1&scat=5&sscat=35&p=346&lng=en",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283732",
"author": "wvdv2002",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T00:31:46",
"content": "What would be even cooler is to use a PIC32 as SD card reader, microcontroller and MP3 decoder. Those damn microcontrollers are now fast enough to decode their own MP3’s. They are cheaper and smaller than PIC with a VS1011. I have been playing around with the MP3 decoder, the source code can be found on the microchip website. Now to build my own Ethernet PIC32 internet radio. Might be interesting to use a PIC32 with build in Ethernet controller. All the functions you need in a 8 euro package. Can somebody lend me some spare time….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283733",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T00:35:26",
"content": "@Ekaj well I didn’t look at the sourcecode but it says here that it takes all 4K so there must have been SOME effort done I figured.@tophat hackaday just got it as a new item on hackedgadgets.com, which is not a bad site but not one that makes great claims, the guy running it just tries to keep some content coming in and there are some interesting things, and many articles arriving there are taken over by hackaday.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "283785",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T03:04:44",
"content": "@Whatnot,Yep, Alan(hackedgadgets.com) runs a great site. We do often enjoy the stuff he posts.",
"parent_id": "283733",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "283742",
"author": "bluewraith",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T00:56:01",
"content": "@WhatnotThanks for the next link in my daily rotation. :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "602483",
"author": "FrankenHack",
"timestamp": "2012-03-13T22:57:56",
"content": "DailyRot rules !!",
"parent_id": "283742",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "283743",
"author": "andrew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T01:02:16",
"content": "I’ve been thinking about how to make a light headphone/mp3 player combo (e.g., behind the neck style). This is helpful.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283744",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T01:03:09",
"content": "I just use little wires for vias. You can file them flat if you need, and using this technique I put two 160 pin SMT board-board connectors on a two layer proto-router cut board that’s only 0.8″ by 4″.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283776",
"author": "Adam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T02:40:57",
"content": "This is still pretty sweet. Like how they take the time to make it nice and small. And its a good bouncing off point for adding a display and more functionality. Not sure why HaD is worrying about the microcontroller.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283787",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T03:21:56",
"content": "@MattHaha, I usually do the same thing. I seem to have miles of old wire-wrapping wire left, that little wire is easy to strip and works great. I don’t think I’ll ever run out of that stuff. Does anyone else have that problem? I haven’t wire-wrapped in at least a decade, but the stuff still haunts me!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283794",
"author": "iToast",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T03:54:51",
"content": "Comment exploded into a million tiny pieces of glittery magic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283806",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T04:28:49",
"content": "Forget about the CD changer spoofing. Cram it into an old audio cassette and rig it up with a sensor on the drive sprocket that fast forwards and rewinds the MP3s (or skips tracks) when you press rewind or fast forward.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283816",
"author": "hazard",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T05:25:22",
"content": "The summary mentions the pic is a pic18lf88 — funny that, it dosen’t exsist.The actual pic being used is a 16lf88, in an 18-pin package. They’re very different devices, aside from one existing and the other not so much.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283821",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T05:46:12",
"content": "They have these.They’re called iPod Shuffles.They’re probably dirt-cheap if you don’t absolutely need the latest model.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283822",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T05:48:05",
"content": "“spoofing the communications as if this were a CD changer.”What protocol do most of these head units use to talk to the changers?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283844",
"author": "doc oc",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T07:03:51",
"content": "A company called Blitzsafe makes AUX/MP3 to CD Changer adapters – One costs 80$ for my Acura TL!!!http://www.blitzsafe.com/Its really smooth, double press the CD button.I would make my own for my Bose headunit! – the only problem is the headunit connector would be messy to tie in to with out the male plug.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283845",
"author": "andres",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T07:06:55",
"content": "@M4CGYV3Revery brand uses their own proprietary interface/protocol with no documentation in sight. you may find bits and pieces, but standardization is something you wont find.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283876",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T08:47:54",
"content": "I think that this is the BEST diy PCB through hole method:http://www.colinmackenzie.net/electronics/14-pcb/25-thru-hole-plating-diy-printed-circuit-boards!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283880",
"author": "adamhixon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T08:53:35",
"content": "How large of a SD card can it handle?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283892",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T09:24:20",
"content": "“half again as large ”You mean twice the size?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283895",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T09:24:59",
"content": "or 1.5 times the size?Jesus talk English man",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "483762",
"author": "N0LKK",
"timestamp": "2011-10-18T22:11:41",
"content": "Looks like the English language to me. Although that term is a bit archaic, it’s still a legitimate one still. Not hard to figure out, or shouldn’t be anyway. Half of 10 is 5. 5+10 is not 20, clearly it doesn’t mean 2X. Kids these days ;) For many thinking in terms of “half again as large ” is easier to come up with a figure in their head than multiplying by 1.5, in their head. Before my stroke I used odd ways to calculate larger figures in my head, to get correct results. So odd there probably isn’t a way to phrase a description of them. Since the stroke I can’t rely on the results, so I refrain using my old ways.",
"parent_id": "283895",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "283901",
"author": "xtremegamer",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T09:33:34",
"content": "and when you cramped everything in the cassette you could use a motor to power the board by the movement of the tape head",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283922",
"author": "bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T10:20:12",
"content": "for an old, incomplete project that so many of you complain about it really started some interesting topics and led to a few nice tips of other chips and techniques. I think it was a successful post.And I enjoyed the post itself too. Thanks HaD.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283930",
"author": "MBear",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T10:42:59",
"content": "@BiOzZI found this video on youtube…Interesting MP3 player….http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6AcOWKNnuY",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283946",
"author": "ronald",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T11:37:03",
"content": "it looks like it would fit inside one of those bose noisecanceling headphones wish would take care of the power too",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283972",
"author": "brad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T12:34:53",
"content": "this comment is now diamonds.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283994",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T13:37:06",
"content": "Why interface to the lame stock stereo in the car?Why not simply build your own stereo?This device rocks for a different use. make the pic trigger mp3’s based on input. I.E. a trigger-able soundboard. for animatronics.hook it to a car stereo.. how lame.Spend $99.00 and buy a frigging mp3 capable car stereo, that are all over the place.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "602279",
"author": "JB",
"timestamp": "2012-03-13T19:26:48",
"content": "$40 buy you a Dual brand head unit that can handle a USB memory stick and a SD card up to 32 GB (I think) and also has an AUX analog input and FM radio. Put one of those in my old car. Beats the stock radio/cassette :P@OP nice hack anyways. I’ve been meaning to build one myself just for the challenge of it.",
"parent_id": "283994",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "284018",
"author": "Alex Rossie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T14:12:07",
"content": "Oh nice.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284039",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T15:43:20",
"content": "Way too much feature creep. The goal of this was to make a super small MP3 player.Yes you could use a DSPPic to do it a different way. More power too you.You could use a slight larger cpu and then interface it to an iPod adaptor or your cars CD changer interface.But that is just it as a starting point.You could also use a larger CPU and interface it to an ATA/EIDE hard drive to make a really big ipod if you want.Or just got nuts throw on a radio chip, network interface, display, and an IR for remote control and make your own entertainment device.But this is a cool little start.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284068",
"author": "Dan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T16:53:09",
"content": "The ultimate PIC32 version is in my opinion this TRAXMOD lossless audio player (it can play FLAC, as well as standard WAV, MOD files and MP3 files):http://www.k9spud.com/traxmod/Actively being developed still, it started out on the ARM7 but then migrated over to the PIC32 family. Version 2.0 is just in progress.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284079",
"author": "gunner",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T17:09:34",
"content": "What i would like to see is somebody making a new version of the MASplayer for amiga. there is currently NO mp3 decoding hardware available at retail for amigans to buy. only overpriced second hand mp3@64 and mas player pros and not very many of them!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284154",
"author": "None",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T19:58:00",
"content": "So since Alan Parekh does not publish the first comment on his site, here’s a copy:“Open Source Apple Shuffle like DIY MP3 Player”Not at all.No caseNo batteryNo USBNo AACMCU superfluous as VS1011 can work standalone",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284318",
"author": "propmaker",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:28:53",
"content": "When making halloween props, this would be useful to give them sound. Use a sensor (motion, pressure plate, etc) to turn it on and play, and make your halloween prop go rawararr!!! Have to find a way to make sure it ignores sensor hits for a short time so it has a chance to finish the sound effect + extra buffer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284541",
"author": "dizzey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T13:37:13",
"content": "For small vias i use thin copper nails or rods.Make them a bit longer than the board is thick, and then i just give it a god whack with a small hammer.After a few practice vias you can get them almost invisble",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284666",
"author": "Panq",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T20:21:09",
"content": "I wonder how small you could make one of these soldering dead-bug style, using a microSD for memory, and then just giving it a quick dip in resin for a case…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284744",
"author": "Zetetic",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T23:53:44",
"content": "Forget about the CD changer spoofing. Cram it into an old audio cassette and rig it up with a sensor on the drive sprocket that fast forwards and rewinds the MP3s (or skips tracks) when you press rewind or fast forward.I tip my hat to you whoever you are.“The catflap! A device of the utmost cunning, perspicuity and invention. It is a door within a door you see.I think Dirk would agree with me, whilst not being a door, it has same level creativity.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,318.808514
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/13/shooting-fireballs-from-your-wrists-hadouken/
|
Shooting Fireballs From Your Wrists – Hadouken!
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Wearable Hacks"
] |
[
"flash cotton",
"flash paper",
"glow plug",
"mercury"
] |
[Glass Giant’s]
wrist-mounted fireball launcher
adds a little stage magic to his life. This method of fire production is several orders of magnitude less dangerous than other
arm-attached flamethrowers
or
instrument-mounted torches
. The module, which is strapped to the underside of his wrist, stores and lights a combination of flash cotton and flash paper. The two flammables are housed in a small aluminum tube touching a glow plug. A slider switch acts as a safety, completing the circuit from the battery, to the glow plug, terminating in a mercury switch which heats things up when held at the proper level. He’s still working out the best way to load the flash materials but as you can see in the video after the break, this is definitely worthy of
the Street Fighter reference
.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AIJi763He8&w=470]
| 26
| 26
|
[
{
"comment_id": "283651",
"author": "TopHat",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:18:50",
"content": "Make magazine did this as a weekend project a long time ago.http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/03/flashback_diminutive_balls_of_fire.htmlhttp://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/03/fireball_shooter_weekend.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283653",
"author": "TopHat",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:20:25",
"content": "Granted there wasn’t a mercury switch.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283654",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:20:52",
"content": "The most unimpressive video ever :(. Maybe if it was done in slow-mo… Definitely needs 1ml of some flammable liquid.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283657",
"author": "Lenny",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:25:54",
"content": "psssh… I can make better fire balls with my deodorant (right guard)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283659",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:28:33",
"content": "Hehe yeah was expecting some more…i dunnoo “SWOOOMPH!” or something? Or maybe at least a few shots from different angles…or maybe the pose and a yelling of hadouken?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283662",
"author": "b",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:36:02",
"content": "Hes not really “shooting fireballs” as much as hes making a very small flash bang go off in his hand. I to use “shooting” I believe he would have to expelling some sort of projectile.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283672",
"author": "Nomad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T22:03:55",
"content": "I bet the reload time is a bitch with this thing :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283674",
"author": "TopHat",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T22:09:04",
"content": "I’d like to see this in a hidden quick draw righttp://www.indymogul.com/backyardfx/episode/BFX_20090119/quick-draw-sleeve-gun-build",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283678",
"author": "x24",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T22:17:34",
"content": "This is more like a Gadouken, if you know what i mean :P.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283685",
"author": "Old Idea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T22:35:17",
"content": "Ok that’s older than old….used one that actually worked (unlike this one) about 20 years ago when I performed magic. The fire ball out of mine could shoot 8 feet. They’ve been selling these commercially for a long time. This was a sad post for Hack-a-day…not new, not a hack, not even working.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283712",
"author": "The ThunderBird",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T23:44:47",
"content": "Guy’s got NOTHING on Everett Bradford. His device is the real deal!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283738",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T00:43:06",
"content": "“…but where did the lighter fluid come from?”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283813",
"author": "xrazorwirex",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T05:12:44",
"content": "A gadouken would have been way cooler than this crap…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283863",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T08:09:11",
"content": "isn’t the Hadouken blue? I ask this because i was thinking of a little(ok a lot) more dangerous Hadouken blaster, involving tennis balls soaked in some accelerant. so what burns blue and isn’t easy to extinguish? that is the question. KAMEHAMEHAAA",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283865",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T08:14:04",
"content": "in case you found that video a bit lacking: here’s a little something i found on the interwebz:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6jRELZv1Xg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283867",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T08:16:06",
"content": "and for the aspiring hobgoblin:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-MmzIGzyYA&NR=1",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283925",
"author": "ferdi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T10:33:53",
"content": "ware is test video 1or get in that movie te place on firebut i love this it looks cool but it look off hy blow to the shoting thing",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283982",
"author": "...",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T13:02:40",
"content": "Looks more like Gadouken",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284036",
"author": "HaDAk",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T15:35:37",
"content": "Come on, he could have at least yelled something epic as the fire shot out of his wrist!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284059",
"author": "colsolare",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T16:26:39",
"content": "Disappointing. It wasn’t a fireball at all, just a large spark.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284064",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T16:39:45",
"content": "That was rather weak. I could have done better by lighting a fart.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284086",
"author": "rob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T17:26:16",
"content": "Try using this against Sagat and you will see the result",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284116",
"author": "Shawn (GlassGiant)",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T18:26:25",
"content": "This is me in the video (though I didn’t submit it). To address the various criticisms:Makezine did this, yes, and I gave them props in my Instructable.http://www.instructables.com/id/Incline-activated-Fireball-Shooter/This is intended for a magic buff. I want him to be able to produce a small or large flash for a small crowd (usually kids). It was never the intention that this be able to melt a Russian tank.The test shown produces a small flash, suitable for, say unpalming a coin or something.This video shows a big bigger fireball (though, again, safe enough to display to a crowd of kids):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omE-fpngjcM“…but where did the lighter fluid come from?” Hah! If you load this with too much flash cotton, it shoots the wad of flash paper across the room, unlit. When that first happened, I thought of this line!Yes, reload time is a bitch. This is really only suitable for a one-off during a performance. I suppose you could replace the slide switch with a selector switch and add 3 or 4 tubes…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284134",
"author": "Aero",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T19:04:45",
"content": "lol @Tom",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287160",
"author": "walt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T04:04:03",
"content": "instructables BOOOOOOOOOO!!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287482",
"author": "Chris Dalton",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T17:45:23",
"content": "Waiting for the Kinect hack version.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.045441
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/13/building-a-spectrophotometer/
|
Building A Spectrophotometer
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"chemistry hacks"
] |
[
"multimeter",
"photosensor",
"photospectrometer",
"spectrometer"
] |
What can you make with a toilet paper roll, duct tape, and a graphing calculator? A stand for your
homemade spectrometer
. This is neither as pretty nor as accurate as a precision scientific instrument, but that doesn’t mean it’s useless. In fact, it works perfectly well for rudimentary observations. Light is shined through a sample solution, passes through a diffraction grating, then shows up as bands of color on the projection surface seen above. The photosensor mounted on the cardboard tube was pulled from a night-light, and is read using the ruler and the multimeter. This results in two data units that are used to graph the results. As long as you’re running test samples as a control this simple setup will yield useful information for the scientist on a shoe-string budget.
[via
BoingBoing
]
| 15
| 15
|
[
{
"comment_id": "283622",
"author": "ferdi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:11:47",
"content": "when iread thisWhat can you make with a toilet paper roll, duct tape, and a graphing calculatorsorry i must think one thingmacgyver",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283623",
"author": "Martin H.",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:12:24",
"content": "Nice setup. But if you want to build and use the same design (maybe with a CD or DVD instead of the grating), you should be aware of the overlapping spectra.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283625",
"author": "PocketBrain",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:24:29",
"content": "Now, THAT’s a hack. Duct tape will be seen as the crowning achievement of the Human race, when we are replaced by intelligent bees or scientific otters. Maybe they will keep us around to run the manufacturing facilities.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283628",
"author": "ferdi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:31:45",
"content": "ducttape is the bomyou can reaper evrithing whit itthe mythbusters have test it you can repair even a car that is open by the firedepartmant",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283638",
"author": "werejag",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:44:25",
"content": "whats that stuff… ah duct tape, i love duct tape",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283644",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:56:33",
"content": "nice, i thought of doing a spectrophotometer but couldn’t think of how to sweep the entire spectrumhe just uses a photosensor and moves it,it is really crude thoughhe does go into explaining where it lacks but i think he left out a lot too like how the photosensor could absorb different wavelengths differentlyspectrophotometers can do a couple other things too but this is fine for basic stuff",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283646",
"author": "hpux735",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:03:39",
"content": "This is AWESOME! I can finally measure the IBUs of homebrew beer!http://www.hereforthebeer.com/ibu-the-international-bitterness-unit/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283656",
"author": "scientist",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:24:51",
"content": "This reminds me of the cellphone spectrophotometer I read about when looking for a simple solution for e. coli cell counting…it uses any form of JPG creating camera to get intensity measurements (ie a cameraphone, like so many cell phones are these days)http://www.asdlib.org/onlineArticles/elabware/Scheeline_Kelly_Spectrophotometer/index.html-sCi",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283671",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T22:03:13",
"content": "just a thought, but the linear CCD from a broken all-in-one printer could work here.plus its already set up to detect a wide range of wavelengths as long as its one of the units that uses a RGB LED to select the colour.currently have 6 of these sitting in my spares box :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283688",
"author": "Whoever",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T22:52:49",
"content": "“left out a lot too like how the photosensor could absorb different wavelengths differently”There’s no “could”, photoresistors do absorb colors differently.What I think is the most important he left out is how to calibrate it. You can calibrate the wavelengths with cheap laser pointers (total $15 – $5 for a 650nm and $10 for a 532nm from Hong Kong). Then you can calibrate the levels using photography grade incandescent lightbulbs, just relate the readings to the wikipedia graphs on the blackbody spectrum for the color temperature of your bulb, and use that to more or less correct the response of the photoresistor.Or if you’re feeling adventurous you can try to use the Fraunhofer lines.Should’ve probably also mention’d that if you’re only going to use it to measure transmission, simply make a graph with just the light source and then substract that from actual readings. Instant flat response.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283761",
"author": "jethomson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T01:53:27",
"content": "I’ve had good results making a spectrometer out of a camera (raw or JPEG) and a piece of inexpensive transmissive diffraction grating. I’ve written a whole series of articles on how to make a spectroscope and how to convert the spectrographs into spectrograms using some open source code I wrote for GNU Octave/MATLAB. I also discuss how to determine the spectrometer’s system function which is dominated by the Bayer filters’ spectra and the spectral response of the CCD.The spectrometer is easily calibrated for wavelength using the mercury peaks in a CFL. I just figured out how to radiometrically calibrate it a couple days ago; I’ll post a write-up on that in a week or so.For the whole series of articles:http://jethomson.wordpress.com/spectrometer-articles/Or if you just want to see pictures:http://jethomson.wordpress.com/spectrometer-articles/how-to-build-a-spectroscope/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283833",
"author": "NitPickah",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T06:13:15",
"content": "I was unaware that one could polish light… or did you mean that light is /shone/ through the sample solution?Neat hack, but why the calculator? Why not just tape the tube to the meter itself and make it self-contained?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284347",
"author": "jethomson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T02:57:42",
"content": "Shined is correct if the light source shines on the direct object, which is the case in the summary. Here’s a couple of examples to make it clearer:The sun shone on Friday.The sun shined on Friday.In the first sentence, Friday is a day of the week; in the second, Friday is Robinson Crusoe’s companion.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284357",
"author": "o",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T03:32:33",
"content": "It’s starting to look like a triple rainbowThat’s a full rainbow oh my god",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "318393",
"author": "csoeder",
"timestamp": "2011-01-30T01:50:01",
"content": "Thank for the mention! I’ve posted some further discussion here:http://topologicoceans.wordpress.com/2011/01/29/diy-spectro-faq/and an update is on the way!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.154832
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/13/diy-clamp-helps-with-surface-mount-soldering/
|
DIY Clamp Helps With Surface Mount Soldering
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Tool Hacks"
] |
[
"clamp",
"dowel",
"pcb",
"soldering",
"surface mount"
] |
Hackaday writer [Gerrit Coetzee] built
a simple clamp to aid in surface mount component soldering
. This cheap, easily made device uses gravity to hold tiny components in place. The tip of the bolt is pointed, but gently like a ballpoint pen so as not to harm the components with a sharp tip. Roughly position your component, rest the tip of the clamp on its center, then nudge for final positioning. [Gerrit] also points out that this acts as a heat sink, helping to prevent damage to the component if you’re too lethargic with the soldering iron.
It seems like this device has been around in one form or another for quite a long time. But the best ideas do keep on popping up. Another nice tip to go along with this one is the use of
a dowel when ironing during toner transfer
for your PCBs.
| 30
| 30
|
[
{
"comment_id": "283584",
"author": "gantzim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:57:10",
"content": "i thought it would be just as good for clamping circuit boards down with the washers so that you could solder easier just tighten down the nut and the board hovers in front of your face while you work",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283587",
"author": "Sariel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:04:50",
"content": "this is pretty ingenious. great work.btw first",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283588",
"author": "Vaclav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:07:54",
"content": "I did exactly same tool with pin on place of screw a long time ago. I am using it to clamp of scope or logic analyzer probe to desired place on PCB. Pin sits on PCB signal way and probe is clamped to pin. Maybe my idea will be useful for somebody too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283589",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:12:49",
"content": "Nice idea, I generally use scotch tape. Tape the part to a piece of tape with a pin exposed align that with the pcb then tack that pin down , remove tape and finish.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283590",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:13:25",
"content": "smart but not original … i have something fairly similar to this i got as part of an SMD soldering kit bit it comes in from the top almost like a desklamp in constructioni can see this having slip problems because it has no grip and its on an anglepersonally i find soldering the board first than using a vacuum tweezer to place the components wile melting the solder to be the best method",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283591",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:14:11",
"content": "hehehe i suppose this is also useful for thwarting the person who comes in the room screaming and startles you. (its also a mallet)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283592",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:14:40",
"content": "Why would you need a clamp to hold down an SMT component? This would take forever. You put solder on one pad, set the SMT component in place with tweezers, heat the pad with the pre-applied solder, remove the tweezers. Bam. If you are going to take the time to hold down each component with a clamp like this, I hope you’re either only soldering a few components, or you have a great deal of disposable time!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283616",
"author": "slipp",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:00:16",
"content": "pretty cool.no slip and non-conductive tip idea:– get a fresh pencil (#2)– shape eraser into a point by erasing, sanding, or maybe even use a pencil sharpener– remove eraser holder (metal cylinder) from pencil while retaining the eraser– crimp the holder onto the end of the boltALT: use the pencil with sharpened eraser in lieu of the bolt",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283617",
"author": "jim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:02:17",
"content": "Next time on Hackaday: how to hack wind with paperweights.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283618",
"author": "Pete",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:02:48",
"content": "I made a similar device and use it quite often. In this picture it is holding an 8pin socked flush against perfboard upside down to allow for soldering. There are some other pics of tools I use often in the album too.http://picasaweb.google.com/mills.pete/Tools#5550239820094579298",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283619",
"author": "jim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:03:12",
"content": "And surely there should be an LED and an Arduino hot glued on there, somewhere.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283629",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:32:45",
"content": "Useless. If you need to use this crap to solder some resistors and capacitors, you suck at soldering.Try using this “tool” to solder an 0402 element.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283641",
"author": "macegr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:50:03",
"content": "Sigh. All the cowboys dismissing this as “useless” must not do very much soldering. After doing ~700 PCBs by hand I’ll acknowledge any trick to make things easier. The setup shown in TFA makes sense because they are soldering a small component to really big pads…hard to keep things from moving around due to surface tension. Probably as easy to use a set of fine tipped tweezers if you add a little solder ahead of time.But the clamp method is most useful for IC rework. Fine pitch ICs are easy to solder on new PCB, especially if you have a paste stencil, but if you previously removed the IC it can be tough to balance it on top of all the little solder humps. Removing excess solder is a nice thing to do, but you never get all of it and solder wick sometimes lifts pads. With a clamp, you position the IC at your leisure and then hit it with the iron or hot air, and the constant pressure helps sink all the pins down to the PCB.It’s also really handy for large SMD components, like capacitors and inductors, that require a lot of heat to get soldered and are impossible to hold with fingers without burning yourself.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283668",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:55:53",
"content": "@macegri have soldered atleast $2,000 worth of SMD components in the past 6 months for various school projectsthis is useless as a simple pair of $15 air tweesers or even a $2 pair of regular tweesers so the job just fineif you find SMD soldering to be extremely difficult try1) getting a pair of magnifying glasses2) work on steady hand exercises3) get a hot air gun4) make a toaster oven reflow oveni find SMD soldering fun but than again im to geeky for my own good",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283718",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T23:53:02",
"content": "@macegrI disagree with pretty much everything you said. Like BiOzZ, I am constantly soldering SMD, and I can tell you that I regularly (and repeatedly!) remove very fine pitch IC’s from boards and have never lifted a pad. It sounds like you are using way too much pressure or heat, or are going the wrong direction with the wick. If you must slide the wick on the pads, slide it in the direction of the trace, towards the dead end. Works great. I can replace a 48TSSOP maybe a minute, including solder removal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283762",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T01:54:58",
"content": "I have yet to need one of these when doing SMD.I’ll let you know when it happens.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283766",
"author": "Gerrit Coetzee",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T02:14:48",
"content": "This tool comes in handy for a lot of tasks other than just SMD. It can hold down tabs of weird parts like batteries, stranded wire, unbalanced smd parts (like antennas or switches). It’s also good for holding things together while you glue them. You can also hold a corner of some paper in place if you are trying to align a toner transfer or decal. One advantage of these is that you can tap things into perfect alignment. I dunno, I’ve used tweezers, and I often have to on double sided boards (since these don’t always work when the board wont lay flat). It really doesn’t get easier than this though, especially when it comes to alignment of fine pitch parts.Also, if you want a beginner to never ever be afraid of SMD parts, let them use one of these. They can move onto tweezers and steady hands later if they need to. This really makes it stupid easy. Especially for fine pitch. I used to be terrified of SMD and was vehement in my devotion to DIP until the research engineer upstairs let me with one of these.If you soldering method requires meditation,steady hand exercises, and a sensei to guide your heart down the one true path it may be above the head of a beginner.Also, I just noticed it, but I drew the connection between the small dowel and the large dowel completely wrong. It bothers me. Haha.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283783",
"author": "tim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T02:57:24",
"content": "Genius !Where can i buy one ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283784",
"author": "swighton",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T03:02:30",
"content": "Careful relying on this to act as a heat sink – the small point touching the plastic case will sink a negligible amount of energy compared to what you’re putting in with the iron.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283791",
"author": "Gerrit Coetzee",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T03:31:34",
"content": "@swighton, good advice.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283820",
"author": "macegr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T05:44:08",
"content": "Ekaj: I do a lot of rework on TSSOP and QFN, and while it’s extremely rare that I lift a pad, it only needs to happen once to ruin your day, on a PCB that otherwise has $80 worth of good components. I can solder 0603 freehand all day with no magnifier but it’s dumb not to use simple tricks if they work. It’s not a freaking set of training wheels.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283874",
"author": "Gerrit Coetzee",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T08:41:53",
"content": "I’ve seen a lot of pads lift even with the right temperature just due to constant soldering/re-soldering. It’s not often that your prototype board works the first time. Sometimes you gotta replace a part or solder a trace wire to a pad far too many times for the copper to remain bonded to the silicon properly. It’s not always due to bad technique.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283985",
"author": "robomonkey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T13:05:34",
"content": "As a Marylander, I applaud the idea, but he destroyed a crab mallet in the process…..WAH!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284058",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T16:26:26",
"content": "I do a fair bit of SMT work to. I can see this being handy for DIY stuff…but it’s definitely not the ‘right’ way of doing it. Let’s face it, it takes skill to solder very fine pitch/small SMT parts with tweezers and an iron. I would have found this useful working on the unit gain amplifiers for radar. As there is no solder mask, no pads, just gold plated copper everywhere. and it was a read PITA soldering the parts across the traces(well more like conductive patterns). :P But after a while you develop a nack for it. And if I did use this, I really doubt I could have done the boards as fast as I can now. But for someone doing a project at home, I think it’s a good tool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284089",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T17:35:29",
"content": "macegr, if you lift pads with wick, that means you don’t know how to use it. The important thing while wicking is to always keep the wick hot and fluxed. If you don’t have flux, solder will have a hard time sticking, if it’s not hot enough, solder won’t melt. And the worst thing ever to do while wicking is to place it onto the pad, heating it with the iron, removing the iron and then pulling on the semi-solidified solder. You will lose some pads along the way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284160",
"author": "V_T",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T20:05:11",
"content": "Why is it that so many people who are skilled at something seem to think that the same task should be just as easy for everyone? Of course it’s easy for you, you’ve been doing it for a long time or maybe just have an easier time learning that skill than others. Elitist attitudes neither help nor impress anyone.Sure, there may be better ways IF you have the experience and skill to utilize those methods. But for beginners, or even veterans who just don’t have the dexterity, tools like this can be a great help.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284346",
"author": "ch",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T02:55:48",
"content": "this might be helpful for beginners, but you can easily work without it.when some extra help is needed e.g. to tack the first pad or two, a blunted toothpick and an iron with a tiny bit of extra tinning is much, much faster.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285083",
"author": "George Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T20:03:32",
"content": "I have to agree with Ekaj and a couple of others here. I made dozens of SMD boards at Siemens, prototypes for computer controlled equipment. Many of which had fine pitch, small parts and high density.And ALL you need is some tweezers, and maybe a magnifier.I honestly can NOT see using this device. YOu simply grab a part with the tweezers (yes, including chips) and hold it on the pads, one of which has a small dot of solder already added. heat the solder and the let it cool, and the part is held in place.No “nudging” or anything is needed. For chips, I add solder “dots” to two opposing corners of the chip, like pin 1 and pin 8 of a 14 pin chip. Then hold the chip in place best you can, solder one pin, then the other, going back and fourth to the soldered pins to adjust as needed.Works great, it’s fast, and you get good looking boards.Things like this are just silly. Really guys, SMD is NOT that hard!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "480197",
"author": "dcj2",
"timestamp": "2011-10-14T19:59:57",
"content": "geez people, its a tool. you don’t have to use it if you don’t want to. the fact that *you* don’t find it handy doesn’t invalidate it. get over yourselves already.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "533740",
"author": "Lindsay Wilson",
"timestamp": "2011-12-13T03:43:25",
"content": "I made a similar (if a bit over-engineered!) tool ages ago for exactly this purpose and have found it invaluable –http://www.imajeenyus.com/electronics/20080628_pcb_soldering_arm/index.shtmlIt lets me position the part exactly, and leaves both hands free for soldering.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.105817
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/13/putting-too-many-horses-in-a-golf-cart/
|
Putting Too Many Horses In A Golf Cart
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Transportation Hacks"
] |
[
"car of tomorrow",
"golf cart",
"gsxr"
] |
Want to
put 100 horses into your golf cart
and then take it to the Dragstrip? Why not? [Mac McAlpine] did just that by dropping a 2007 GSXR 600 EFI into a 1987 gas-powered Yamaha golf cart. After the break you can see a video of the test run, as well as an overview of the modifications made when swapping engines. [Mac] mentions that the setup still uses the stock bike chain and jackshift even with the upgrade in power. He has, however, upgraded both the front and rear axles with caliper and drum brakes respectively. There’s also a
NASCAR Car of Tomorrow
wing on the roof to help keep the wheels on the pavement.
Good thing he’s wearing that helmet. Without a seatbelt it’ll make smashing through the windshield a little more comfortable. Drive carefully [Mac]!
Test run:
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1HYkBD5UBU&w=470]
Internals:
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kWIaBfQlWQ&w=470]
| 49
| 49
|
[
{
"comment_id": "283460",
"author": "thatonekid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T13:36:03",
"content": "nice rims",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283473",
"author": "sunjester",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T14:04:59",
"content": "When people said “why are the Android Java tutorials on here??” I disagreed, hell, it’s uber geeky to build your own android app y’know, most people aren’t programmers (well, on this site I’m sure they are).However, this isn’t hacking. There isn’t even talking in the poor quality videos, and I don’t count the sniffle.Cmon guys, really? a suped up golf cart?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283479",
"author": "booowho",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T14:15:09",
"content": "Not hacking? Are fuckign stupid?PS Saying “uber” is so 2002.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283484",
"author": "Scz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T14:28:50",
"content": "To each his own sunjester. Everyone likes different hacks",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283486",
"author": "jim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T14:32:25",
"content": "Seems like a lot of effort for a joke that’s been done before.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283487",
"author": "damox",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T14:34:32",
"content": "@sunjesterI am thoroughly confused.You pass by the “suped” (see: souped) up golfcart on a feed that takes into account most things that regard to stepping outside the boundary of conformity.This is no different from getting linux to run on a kindle or likewise. Using the machine for purposes other than intended fits perfectly within my definition of a “hack”.Yet you praise the android java tutorials which couldn’t be farther from the loosely defined term hack.I haven’t read a single android entry, yet I have read this one. Your argument is invalid.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283495",
"author": "Daid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T14:46:44",
"content": "From wikipedia:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hack_%28technology%29——————————Hacking (English verb to hack, singular noun a hack) refers to the re-configuring or re-programming of a system to function in ways not facilitated by the owner, administrator, or designer.——————————Putting a huge engine in a golf cart, not the way it was intended to be used. HACK.Using the android audio as serial communication, not the way it was intended to be used. HACK.A tutorial how to use the android development kit. Exactly as it was intended to be used. No hack here.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283496",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T14:49:55",
"content": "Holy crap, this golf cart has such an incredible potential to kill!!! I’d hate to see him turn too fast. I hope they limited the top speed, and added some steering stabilization to it! The “roll bars” on a typical golf cart will bend/fold if you roll hard enough!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283499",
"author": "RobThePyro",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T14:56:10",
"content": "bottom line:-WIN-",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283507",
"author": "sam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T15:09:28",
"content": "@sunjester Get owned",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283510",
"author": "Zoltan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T15:38:13",
"content": "Daid:But how are you going to make the seriel over audio if you dont know the API ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283511",
"author": "Pilotgeek",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T15:43:04",
"content": "Hey, did anyone post any safety related comments yet????",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283536",
"author": "Queeg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T16:30:31",
"content": "I see dead people.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283537",
"author": "ferdi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T16:33:08",
"content": "safty yes i have one i see no 4point safty harnasit have no roll bar no race overall no helmedif you creash your a pretty fuckt upbut the bild off the golfcart is nice donehy must be to do more on seafty",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283545",
"author": "Girrrrrrr2",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T16:57:46",
"content": "This would be perfect for golf courses and old folks!Maybe driving through Sun City (Town of Retired people) won’t be as bad anymore…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283546",
"author": "Filespace",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T17:00:18",
"content": "THIS GUY SHOULD BE CAREFUL… HE MIGHT POKE HIS EYE OUT…LMAO",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283548",
"author": "djrussell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T17:05:46",
"content": "an 07 gsxr 600 makes more like 125hp.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283557",
"author": "jim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T17:16:40",
"content": "He should have welded a frame together and considered adding a roll cage and points for a harness. Otherwise, replace the glass with plastic and wear motorcycle leathers.I still think it’s an idea that’s been done better before, especially when you see Smart Hayabusa conversions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283560",
"author": "Grazz256",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T17:59:24",
"content": "Yeah this is totally not a hack I see no one driving a taxi in this video….(re:http://www.thefreedictionary.com/hack)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283564",
"author": "golddigger",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:07:36",
"content": "I don’t know what I want more the guys shop or his golf cart! Very awesome! GSXR was a great choice!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283566",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:09:34",
"content": "Where did he put the Arduino?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283571",
"author": "srw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:18:22",
"content": "I’m curious how he passed tech. My daughter’s car, with a 5hp briggs will require a new 5 point harness next year because it’s past its best-before date. (2 years!) I’m pretty sure, with the open cockpit, he would require a 5 point harness, arm restraints, maybe a roll cage, probably a fire suit. I don’t think that thing would make it past the staging lanes at our track.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283572",
"author": "MS3FGX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:21:40",
"content": "This is certainly a hack, more so than plenty of other things HaD has run, for that matter.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283573",
"author": "nonermouse",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:26:27",
"content": "I like it. I also think it’s funny that he used a GSXR600 instead of a YZF-R6. After all, the kart is a Yamaha…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283576",
"author": "alan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:32:16",
"content": "it’s a hacking blog. i hate people that blast tutorials being posted as not a “hack.” it helps people hack, therefor they wanted to share it to the hacking community. don’t freaking click on the read more button if it doesn’t interest you.and most of all, you can always choose to go to another hacking blog.ffs people…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283581",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:53:40",
"content": "Caleb opened a new site!!!Please join us at semanticbitchaday.com and join the throng of enthusiastic commenters.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283586",
"author": "Dopesick",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:03:21",
"content": "@ Ekaj.Obviously you know nothing about golf carts OR motorcycles. You can PLAIN AS DAY hear in the video he was only in ONE gear. He never shifted.had it been me, I’d have a shifter linkage hooked up and would have ran through a couple gears down that drag strip.Sure it’s one thing to drop a ridiculously LARGE engine in a golf cart (compared to the stock setup). But it’s pretty pointless to limit yourself to 1 gear (out of 5 or 6 depending on the engine/trans you use).The engines used in golf carts range from 187cc to 300cc from what I have seen, but are single cylinder govern engines. Dropping a 4 cyl motorcycle engine in there, is most definitely a “hack”.On a more applicable note. Where’s the turbo hayabusa motor?????",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283594",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:17:29",
"content": "@nonermouse I was going to ask the same thing. I wonder if they did anything to improve lubrication. One of the big problems when using a motorcycle motor in any type of cart is the lubrication system doesn’t handle lateral g’s well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283598",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:24:52",
"content": "I love the people claiming “GSXR was a good choice” and “Why not YZF-R6”. Have you ever bought a motorcycle engine? If you’re going to do something like this, you’ll find that you end up buying what you can find in good shape for a good price. There is no “good choice” here, unless you have loads of disposable cash :D@lwatcdrWhat are you talking about? The only concern here for lubrication would be the final drive, as that’s the only original lubricated component that appears to be left. Considering that he’s running ~10 times the expected power through it, he clearly does not expect it to last. Lubrication concerns could easily be addressed, but methinks that the gear and chain set will be trashed after a few days at the “track, lol",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283602",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:31:44",
"content": "This is awesome, always wanted to cannibalize a totaled 600 and put the motor/trans in a cart. I will build one someday.@lwatcdrTwo points, first I think nonermouse was just commenting on the two rival brands rather than the possible performance issues.Second, they have kits for relocated oil pickups for most bikes (usually for doing wheelies for long periods of time) that will keep the lube system going with many lateral g’s.@djrussellPrett sure it doesn’t put down quite that much, I had an ’07 750 and it barely had ~129 stock.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283607",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:42:16",
"content": "ICP’s hacks tend to involve blades.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283608",
"author": "Steve",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T19:43:28",
"content": "You guys were beaten on this one by Kenny Roberts, who had a golf cart with an FZR1000 engine in it about two decades ago.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283624",
"author": "goldscott",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:13:41",
"content": "@Ekaj, et al:Safety is never a first priority. I think hackers especially, but most people in general, like things with more speed, power, fire, and ability to kill.If only this thing had a facial recognition system with an automated turret and fully automatic coil gun that shot flaming bolts… Controlled, of course, by an Arduino.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283642",
"author": "Mr. Sandman",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:55:54",
"content": "Picture caption:“They see me rollin…”, etc.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283663",
"author": "djrussell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:46:23",
"content": "@Spork: perhaps that was an at-the-crank number i found. you lose ~10hp through the drivetrain though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283690",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T22:59:11",
"content": "@Spork. That is why I said that I was going to say the same thing. Keep it all Yamaha…Probably the real reason that the GSXR was used was that they tend to be more available than R6s because more of them crash. May they just sell a lot more of them.Nothing wrong with the GSXR except that it seems to be a favorite bike of new young riders. You put a new rider and a GSXR and it is just a matter of time before you have a collection of spare parts. The same is true of the ZX6, CBR600RR, and the R6 except for some reason those bikes seem to go to more experienced riders.Frankly I feel that selling any 600cc supersport to a 18-29 year old with that just finished their MSF course or worse hasn’t is just short of criminal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283709",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T23:38:17",
"content": "@lwatcdrOh, I thought your two ideas were related from the way it was written. I had two GSXR’s over the span of 5 years and the only time I made spare parts was because an idiot in a mini cooper hit me on the highway. — I say idiot because he caused an accident by switching lanes illegally and then fleeing the scene afterward.I still have my classic GS750 (1976), but I haven’t ridden since the accident.@djrussellYeah, that’s probably it. 10HP is huge on a bike, I mean from the GSXR600 to the Hayabusa (1300) you only have about 50HP, but you can definitely feel it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283727",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T00:04:39",
"content": "@Spork Well I am sure that if you also own a GS750 that you where not an inexperienced rider.Yes way to many idots in cages. Hope you can get ridding soon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283737",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T00:37:24",
"content": "I prefer electric, but don’t mind souped up a bit thought :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283748",
"author": "GolfKartGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T01:15:34",
"content": "46mph!!!!!! Thats it. I got 65mph out of a rotax 440 snowmobile engine in my Yamaha G1. GET RID OF THE CVT CLUTCHES AND RUN SOME GEARS.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283769",
"author": "Drake",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T02:22:11",
"content": "@100 hp that thing should have been going fasteri feel like I’ve wasted a couple minutes of my life",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283799",
"author": "cmholm",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T03:56:28",
"content": "Seat belt? In my (grandfather’s) day, they didn’t need seat belts, even in Formula Frackin One… nor safety barriers, or even, praise the Lord, much more than knee high sandbags between the spectators and the action:http://blog.grandprixlegends.com/diecast/grand-prix-racing-1930-1939-a-golden-era-of-motor-racing_630",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283875",
"author": "gx280fan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T08:46:26",
"content": "FAIL… All that power and one gear? WTF? What a complete waste of time…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283983",
"author": "svengali",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T13:03:19",
"content": "clearly it never left first gear. would have been so much better if it shifted.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284026",
"author": "twistedsymphony",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T15:10:32",
"content": "while technically this is “hacking” I think typical car modifications engine swaps and the like aren’t the kind of hacks you’d expect to see here on HAD.I mean I’ve submitted my hacks in the past but the last couple of years I’ve spent shoving a Corvette V8 into my Nissan:http://solid-orange.com/757http://forums.240sxone.com/showthread.php?t=2071while I suppose technically it’s a “hack” I don’t think its anything that belongs on HAD.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284055",
"author": "Alex McAlpine",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T16:24:57",
"content": "This is no joke. This is the guy that founded MacsBoost!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284062",
"author": "Mac",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T16:28:56",
"content": "The CVT is the auto transmission/clutch. The engine runs in sixth gear and does not use the motorcycle clutch. The beauty of the design is the simplicity and the ability to drive it like a normal golf cart with only the gas pedal, brakes and FWD/REV lever. Being EFI, it is more environmentally friendly than your normal carbureted golf cart ;)Hopefully this will inspire others.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284082",
"author": "Erok",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T17:14:43",
"content": "there sure are alot of no fun pussies on here! Thjis thing is a blast!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284083",
"author": "Gert",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T17:14:54",
"content": "What the hell Mike Szczys! What’s next? Lolcatz?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.239102
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/12/game-boy-vga-using-an-fpga/
|
Game Boy VGA Using An FPGA
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Nintendo Game Boy Hacks",
"Nintendo Hacks"
] |
[
"Altera",
"cyclone II",
"fpga",
"vga"
] |
[ViDAR] was looking for a project to keep him occupied and settled on creating
a VGA converter for his Game Boy
. He had some difficulty finding pinouts for the LCD and CPU but working with what was known, and an oscilloscope, he found the necessary signal. Tap into just a few lines using those thin blue wires; Vsync, Hsync, clock, and two data pins. From there a development board with an Altera Cyclone II field-programmable gate array takes care of the heavy lifting. The board already has hardware for a VGA connection so it was just a matter of processing the incoming signals into the VGA standard. His demo video is embedded after the page break.
Want a dedicated solution?
Check out this Game Boy video adapter
inside a VHS cassette.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUIWsUHntf8&w=470]
| 27
| 27
|
[
{
"comment_id": "283132",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T00:02:21",
"content": "what cant FPGA’s do? XD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283134",
"author": "gcoetzee",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T00:08:10",
"content": "*cough*",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283139",
"author": "Alex Rossie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T00:39:14",
"content": "Nice acrylic cover on his DE1. I wontie",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283162",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T01:22:54",
"content": "Hmm, GameBoy Pocket to VGA. Man, if it were only the early 90s, that would be a state-of-the-art hack. How about something more current, like Nook Color to HDMI?I’m just joking btw, great work, love the Logitech stereo (I have the same one) and please get some cough drops and a better camera.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283207",
"author": "Arthur",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T02:51:03",
"content": "King of the blurry Cam, and it sounds like he has a cold too. :(that being said this is really cool. I want some fgpa skillz.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283210",
"author": "HaDAk",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T03:03:06",
"content": "The high pitched sound coming from the webcam’s mic, his constant coughing in the mic, and the shakiness of the video killed it for me. Awesome project though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283211",
"author": "????",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T03:07:57",
"content": "couple of years late on this mod but a great POC none the less.+1",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283215",
"author": "BronzeG3",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T03:15:47",
"content": "I just spent most of the weekend getting a PIC to talk to a color LCD from an old Nokia cell phone (3510i). I feel inferior.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283217",
"author": "vtl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T03:18:52",
"content": "Soldering to those pins looks like a real bitch. I recently just soldered up one of those Nokia 3310 LCDs to a ribbon cable and that took me forever.For people who cbf doing this hack and want any kind of handheld on the big screen theres always emulators. Ahh I remember in primary school we’d all be playing pokemon roms on the school computers.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283231",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T03:35:00",
"content": "It’s not just the FPGA but the analyzing the signals, impressive, this is certainly not going to get a ‘that’s not a hack’ post :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283374",
"author": "bzroom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T10:06:27",
"content": "not a hack..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283378",
"author": "tulcod",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T10:17:36",
"content": "BiOzZ: most companies design new CPUs by coming up with some VHDL and loading it onto a (very expensive) FPGA. I’m not sure if Intel still does it this way, but I have heard that they used to load some of their fastest intel processors (think Pentium 4) onto FPGAs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283387",
"author": "oomenGFDBDGB@CBF",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T10:40:44",
"content": "http://www.8051projects.net/lofiversion/t37003/mobile-controlled-robot.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283453",
"author": "cantido",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T13:03:44",
"content": "@tulcodYou’d need a very very big FPGA to get a whole P4 into it… and those sort FPGA’s have PPC cores ;P. It’s very possible Intel developed/develops their stuff in some HDL and simulates the designs. If they didn’t they’d have a lot of wasted silicon.Look up the Ferranti ULA (this book is pretty goodhttp://www.zxdesign.info/book/theZXSpectrumULA.shtml— the first couple chapters are all about the Ferranti ULA..). It was ground breaking in it’s time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283461",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T13:36:34",
"content": "fpga’s are easy, you just have a cliff learning curve.Get off your butts, get the stuff needed to program them and get learning people~!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283483",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T14:26:30",
"content": "@tulcod: Yes they do but they’re typically using a whole box stuffed with FPGAs as gate-level simulator. The FPGAs will be running fixed configs which include simulating some gates and a big switch matrix for hooking up signals to their neighbours. It runs the design much slower than realtime but it’s still quicker than you can simulate in software.This is opposed to partitioning up your 10s of millions gate CPU design into hundreds of chunks and mapping each one to an FPGA individually which would take a lot of computer time (and puts a lot of faith in the FPGA vendor’s software).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283488",
"author": "cantido",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T14:34:58",
"content": "@fartfaceVHDL isn’t too bad if you have some understanding of logic and have used parts out of the 74 series or something. If you get into you head that you are describing some hardware you want and not programming an application you can start to think in VHDL really quickly.The great thing is that you make something that looks like a ROM in VHDL and the toolchain goes “hey, that looks like a ROM to me, going to make that a ROM buddy, that’s a counter isn’t it?.. That looks like RAM, so I’ll do you a favour and implement that with Block RAM matey”.The bad things from my experience are everything is 3.3v or lower.. if you want to interface to stuff running at 5v that can be a pain if the bus is bi-directional. I have processor boards, sound generators etc that I wanted to hack together with my FPGA board to make a retro console but I soon gave up when I realised all I’d have to make a ton of buffer daughter boards to interface them. The tools have proprietary written all over them, the best tools are on Windows.. you can get Xilinx’s ISE to run on Linux but it’s a bit clunky.. and then your dev board probably has some proprietary programming interface that needs Windows software to use or you have to buy a supported (read: expensive) JTAG dongle to use your board. I was working with ISE on Debian and uploading bitstreams to my Digilent Nexys2 via a Windows XP VM for a long time… The build, upload, test cycle was incredibly painful. Digilent has released linux interface drivers that plug into Xilinx’s tools now which made everything a million times more useful.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283508",
"author": "Per Jensen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T15:11:22",
"content": "Please get a stand for that camera, and please don’t record any videos until you don’t cough that much…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283541",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T16:43:47",
"content": "Seriously guys, so yeah he has a bit of a cold, in winter, and it’s a handheld webcam, but I’ve seen so much worse and that includes professional efforts and prime time shows and even movies with more shaky shots that do actually make you nauseous, this is nowhere near that.And he’s obviously trying to not cough and excuses himself for the cam, what more do you want?Chalk me down as being fine with this video.Internet Tip: try to make sure that less than 60% of your comments are 100% bitching complaints ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283569",
"author": "HADViewer",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:15:06",
"content": "HAD -> PLZ moderate all comments or force registration.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283577",
"author": "Adrian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:37:15",
"content": "@Cantido – the tools are smart, but for them to infer hard blocks like you are talking about sometimes takes “finessing” the code, to say the least, and sometimes takes explicitly telling the synthesis tool that you are creating a hard block. Case in point, I can get synplify and ISE to infer BRAM only if I add the syn_ramstyle=”block_ram” attribute to the array signal I am using as memory. Other times, you have to write the code juuuust the right way for it to understand that you are invoking a hard block. Its definitely not as simple as it could be :-/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283661",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:33:38",
"content": "@HADViewer <- agree.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283686",
"author": "Simon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T22:41:05",
"content": "@fartface – agreed. I think this project is the one that finally gets me off my butt. I’ve been meaning to buy an FPGA development kit for years…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283757",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T01:30:04",
"content": "To the folks thinking of starting out with FPGAs: it is possible get by without learning any VHDL or Verilog to start with. Most (all?) of the FPGA vendors’ tools have the option of schematic capture where you have a limited parts library of logic gates, registers, RAMs, simple math functions and so forth which you just hook together as you would real components.Draw your circuit, figure out a list of which physical pins on the FPGA you want to use, hit go and the tools magically turn it into a file you download to the FPGA. It’s not the quickest way to design something but it might soften the learning curve a bit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283842",
"author": "natrix",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T06:46:31",
"content": "@nesVerilog looks a lot like C code, but if you write Verilog like C you will have a synthesized design that is an insane Rube Goldberg implementation of the algorithm you intended. FPGAs are as close to an ASIC as you can get so when you use hardware description languages make sure you have hardware in mind.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284085",
"author": "Gert",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T17:19:50",
"content": "FPGA’s are awesome. Now all he needs to do is upscale the resolution to 1080p + anti-aliasing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284317",
"author": "natrix",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:24:18",
"content": "@GertSounds like you are looking for a Gameboy emulator.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.298068
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/12/make-your-own-cookie-cutters-this-year/
|
Make Your Own Cookie Cutters This Year
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"home hacks"
] |
[
"3d printer",
"cookie",
"cutter",
"processing"
] |
In case you needed another reason to build, borrow, or buy a 3D printer, here’s one way to
design and print your own cookie cutters
. [Nikolaus Gradwohl] put together a processing app that aims to make the design process a bit easier. So if you’ve never designed a printable object before, but can get your hands on a MakerBot or similar device through a friend or your local hackerspace, this is for you. Check out the video after the break to see the process of making a cutter in the shape of a mushroom, or just download the app and give it a go.
[vimeo=http://vimeo.com/17729854]
| 21
| 21
|
[
{
"comment_id": "283104",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T23:09:18",
"content": "I’m pretty sure the makerbot plastic is not foodsafe",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283118",
"author": "DarwinSurvivor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T23:43:20",
"content": "What ever happened simple bent sheet metal…?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283138",
"author": "nave.notnilc",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T00:29:09",
"content": "Hackius:I kinda doubt it is so toxic as to get you if you’re just using it to make shapes out of dough…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283149",
"author": "bwkeller",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T00:59:32",
"content": "Hackius:The makerbot uses high density polyethylene as one of its extrusion materials, which is used frequently in food containers. It may emit BPA, but it unlikely the amount you would ingest from brief contact to cookie dough would be harmful.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283170",
"author": "aztraph",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T01:26:42",
"content": "love the music, and as far as the sheet metal idea, yes it’s good, but harder to work with and still get the precision on the small scale that this method does. and if your still worried about toxins, spray it with cooking spray, it’ll help the dough release and puts a thin barrier between the plastic and the food.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283186",
"author": "zerth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T01:46:25",
"content": "@hackiusIf you don’t think ABS is foodsafe, just use HDPE from recycled milk jug plastic(http://hackaday.com/2010/08/05/recyclebot-digests-milk-jugs-to-feed-makerbot/)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283202",
"author": "mad_max",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T02:23:06",
"content": "The music is freaking great.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283203",
"author": "sunjester",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T02:32:19",
"content": "A tutorial about how to use MakerBot? The title isn’t quite fitting.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283206",
"author": "ChalkBored",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T02:45:48",
"content": "You can’t feed a tube of dough through a makerbot?Would come in especially handy for building things out of gingerbread.Mmm, self replicating cookie based machinery.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283209",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T03:01:56",
"content": "Thanks to the author for not using youtube.And yeah the music wasn’t too bad for the video(I used to be OK with youtube but I’m now the target for their ads and I blocked their URL since I can’t stand that crap of ads on videos, let alone ads before being forwarded to it)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283255",
"author": "adamziegler",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T04:43:27",
"content": "for shame… burned the cookies",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283274",
"author": "dude",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T05:38:00",
"content": "wouldn’t a makerbot cook the dough as it was printing? what shape are the cookies… they look like smurf houses.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283275",
"author": "Osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T05:45:03",
"content": "its the fungi from centipede",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283276",
"author": "fluidic",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T05:45:43",
"content": "ABS is frequently used for cutting boards, isn’t it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283303",
"author": "TJ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T07:05:15",
"content": "I made mine from bent sheets of brass and lead-free solder.http://www.fromtheshopoftjweaver.com/cutters.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283436",
"author": "jaqen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T12:18:37",
"content": "someone make an X-Y cookie dough writer. make the nozzle fine enough, and you could make any shape, since the dough usually rises a bit in the oven anyway",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283583",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:56:07",
"content": "@jaqen – that is a great idea! Seriously a 3-D cookie printer, lets see a post on that!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283649",
"author": "tantris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:13:05",
"content": "a good and cheap material for making cookie cutters are cookie cutters. they are food safe, and already have a blunt and a sharpened edge. you get them for cheap at the thrift store. or if that fails at a craft supply store (with a 40% coupon).look for big round shapes like circles or ovals. avoid shapes that already have sharp bends.now the only challenge i still face is designing a shape that has the same circumference as the blank circles (because i don’t want to start spot welding just for this)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283660",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:31:58",
"content": "As i know the home extruders (makerbot/reprap) use bio-plastic since this has a lower melting point than more accessible plastics. We’re deffinitely not talking normal plastic here.However whether it is foodsafe or not, i do not know.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "389328",
"author": "Melissa Milan",
"timestamp": "2011-05-02T20:02:31",
"content": "I don’t think the plastic could be toxic just by a few seconds of contact with dough. I do wonder if the colored plastics contain any lead though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "403624",
"author": "beverageexpert",
"timestamp": "2011-06-09T19:56:23",
"content": "the makerbot normally uses abs which is what legos are made from. I only print in pla poly lactic acid.This plastic is food grade and is even being used for body implants etc. The pla I use is made from corn and smells great when using my makerbot",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.355388
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/12/nook-color-rooted-hands-on/
|
Nook Color Rooted: Hands On
|
Caleb Kraft
|
[
"Android Hacks"
] |
[
"Nook",
"root"
] |
Nookdevs have released information on
how to root your nook color
. So naturally, I had to run out and get one. Who doesn’t want a multitouch android tablet for $250? The instructions for rooting are extremely simple. You really only need microSD card and a Linux/Windows/Mac computer to connect to. After rooting, your nook will work exactly as it did before, but you can now install android applications on it. Many applications are built for a phone that has more physical buttons, so I have run into some issues, but over all, the applications that work tend to work well.
Join me after the break for more thoughts, a video of it in action, and a few pictures.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyHTgBbBKPo&w=470]
The specs are decent, with a 1024×600 screen, 8GB internal storage with microSD expansion slot, wifi, and an 800MHz ARM A8 processor. As you can see in the last picture, the viewing angle on the screen is fantastic. The battery probably won’t last the advertised 8 hours playing games, but I haven’t had to charge it yet and it has been playing music, browsing the web, and amusing children for about 24 hours now.
Installing software is a bit of a pain. You can’t install things directly from android stores online through the device
yet.
Instead, you have to search the web for the .apk file to download then install it via the command line on your computer. This can be a pain because the .apk files are rarely labelled with which release they are, so I’ve gotten a few older versions of software that simply wouldn’t work even though I’ve seen them working in
other youtube videos
. So far I’ve gotten decent use out of the Dolphin browser, Google Maps, Pandora, and Angry birds. I wouldn’t be surprised to see torrents popping up with bunches of tested applications for nook.
hint. hint.
Removing applications can be a pain too. The theory is easy, you open the console and view what files are installed, then issue a simple command to remove the one you want. However, they don’t necessarily install with an obvious file name. For example, I installed google voice search. Realizing I don’t have a microphone, I went to remove it. However, there are several files labelled google and none have the word voice. How do I know which one it is? A quick google search would probably find me the answer, but I can’t wait till I can just drag the icon to the trash can.
Over all, I can’t wait to see how much better this gets. If I could install software from the android stores I find online, have flash, and remove applications easier, I’d be very happy.
| 72
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "283027",
"author": "GZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T19:06:16",
"content": "I’ve been tempted to run out and get one as soon as I heard about the first success. I’m even more tempted now. Time to do a little debian/ubuntu research!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283034",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T19:24:33",
"content": "Dear HAD,You no-good rotten blog. How dare you tempt me into blowing my already stretched budget this month. How did you know I’ve recently become jealous of my coworkers new Galaxy Tabs? I was just fine and contempt, until you dangled this sweet, juicy news in front of me.I’ve already confirmed they are in stock at my local Best Buy. I will also have to buy flowers on the way back in an attempt to win back the affection of my girlfriend when she finds out how I’ve blown $250.I hope you’re happy.Bill",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283035",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T19:28:25",
"content": "that’s exactly how big i wish my phone was. if i could be in charge of cellphone design.. there’d be all kinds of novelty android phones on the market. novelty for usefulness though, like thicker phones with dynamo charger on the back and larger battery. i’ll get a color nook or something when it can compete with the lowly netbook in terms of cpu/ram.. and effin flash. browsing the internet without flashplayer is like browsing the web on a windows 95 pc, which i did last year and discovered that 97% of internet content is flash",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283037",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T19:31:11",
"content": "@Bill Porter: spend that $250 on a 3:2:10 ratio of bacardi 151 rum:malibu coconut rum:pineapple juice and unleash the affection",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283038",
"author": "ferm",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T19:31:51",
"content": "Why not spend way less (139 or less) on a sylvania android tablet from toys r us? It may not have multi touch but it has video out and is designed to work with most apps",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "283042",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T19:41:11",
"content": "@ferm,the screen resolution, multitouch, and storage are winners here. Though the sylvania one does have a front mounted camera.",
"parent_id": "283038",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "283044",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T19:51:31",
"content": "800mhz still beats the brakes off my phone. gotta reverse engineer all the apps to throw in some softkeys",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283049",
"author": "Izzy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T20:02:53",
"content": "For the hardware buttons problem, there’s SoftKeys, available on the XDA forums, though it’s a pain to configure, and doesn’t solve everything.And the Market is accessible, with a non-trivial procedure(Took me a factory restore to get it working), also available on the XDA forums.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283053",
"author": "nikescar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T20:13:54",
"content": "For a market go to applanet.net. For a launcher that’s great and let’s you drag and drop to uninstall use launcherpro. And as mentioned above use softkeys to solve that problem. This is a full android tablet experience on one of the best screens I’ve ever seen.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283055",
"author": "zacdee316",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T20:20:47",
"content": "I’m sure once more people get into this, they will develop a button emulator for it. That way any future apps for a android will work on it.Looks great though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283090",
"author": "trialex",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T22:07:05",
"content": "Yeah, that’s pretty cool. Keep going with the hacking, and when you’ve sorted your issues it’d be great if you could write up a full guide with every step from unbox new Nook through to play with fully functional tablet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283103",
"author": "drew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T23:03:35",
"content": "Can someone please tell me, is there any conceivable way this could have a linux app, SCIM, enabled on it, so I could, say, add alternate language input on it, and add Japanese input to this?I would kill for a device like this, color screen tablet that can also do Japanese input as it’s linux enabled.Drooling at this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283137",
"author": "Ekit97",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T00:20:42",
"content": "The nook color is a bit sluggish. Scrolling it can lag sometimes. Rooting it can be attractive but I returned mine after 2 days.The return can be a bit of a pain. They’ll ask a bunch of questions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283150",
"author": "Bostwickenator",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T00:59:37",
"content": "All you need to go is search for the keyboard remap file. This assigns the volume up/down keys to menu and back. Tada :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283183",
"author": "BP",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T01:41:17",
"content": "@Bill Porter, you need to sell is as, you saved $300 on a Galaxy tab. That’s the way my wife shopsit’s the amount saved that counts not what you spent, she leaves it up to me to work it out with the bank.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283199",
"author": "Jonathan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T02:20:52",
"content": "so what happens if you try to install the flash apk available for android phones? I have a hacked version of flash on my evo that lets me watch hulu on the phone. Love it but I wouldn’t mind having this tablet as well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283243",
"author": "Thomas",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T04:03:11",
"content": "If you want the android market, install the gingerbread market .apk fromhttp://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=868767Be the envy of all your non-gingerbread friends",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283251",
"author": "Lucien",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T04:40:18",
"content": "You want a $250 android tablet with.multitouch, froyo (flash), etc….Look up the Archos 70.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283252",
"author": "drew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T04:41:29",
"content": "So Botwickenator, it can be done? Is that correct?If so, I absolutely MUST BUY THIS NOW!!The only thing I could ask more for is a larger version, say A4 sized screen. Like a Kindle DX version of this, in color.My technophile dreams just came true!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283254",
"author": "Gamma",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T04:42:54",
"content": "Getjar store gets around alot of the problems with finding some of the more common apps for this device. They provide a simple download link as an alternate to texting or a store app.Plus there is a store app or two you can install.I’ve rooted mine since a couple days after they released the root. Runs most things wonderfully.With GetJar, just select the Galaxy tab or the G2 for your smartphone and it picks up on most of the important apps.I just need a version of Google Sky that will run on it though and I’ll be set. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283262",
"author": "Chad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T05:00:19",
"content": "What is the word on the battery life? The article says it was being used in a multitude of ways and was still running 24+ hours later…but in the video you say the battery is “decent”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283267",
"author": "Little Professor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T05:08:06",
"content": "Wow. That’s pretty cool. I might get a Nook Color after seeing this! I wouldn’t get it for reading (I already have a Kindle 3 and it’s much better), but I would get it so that I could root it. It’s much easier to hack than Kindle is! The specs disappoint me, though. I was hoping for a little more than 800 MHz… Maybe 1 GHz like most smart phones. But then again, it might be more expensive…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283294",
"author": "Paul Darr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T06:29:59",
"content": "I have had my Nook Color for a little over a week now and love it.If you want an inexpensive tablet with a capacitive screen and 512 of ram this is a good way to go. In addition if you consider hacking it a feature then yeah it also has some fun there.There is a ton of useful info on the XDA forums for those that are interested.In addition there has also been some videos of vanilla android running on them. The best guess I have heard for a custom rom is early January.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283302",
"author": "????",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T07:00:37",
"content": "@lucienjust looked it up. good point why not buy the archos 70 over this nook?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283340",
"author": "fdawg4l",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T08:18:54",
"content": "@lucienI believe the Archos has a custom bootloader so you cannot load your own firmware. I believe it will only run signed ROMs from Archos.It’s a blessed Android experience, but it lacks the ability to run your own software that I believe the Nook provides.Please correct me if I’m wrong. My information may be a few months old.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283392",
"author": "Noggin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T10:59:44",
"content": "For those thinking of buying this as an e-reader please note that the Nook Color does *not* use e-ink. It will strain your (1 remaining?) eyes!Far better for reading books is to buy a Kindle or regular Nook.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283415",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T11:14:03",
"content": "I picked up a Haipad M701-R Android Tablet for 160.00 US after I watched Ashens try to make it look bad.He only succeeded in making me more interested in it and I bought one (use his merimobiles link if you do too, they are great!):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJXlFcAaSIkThanks to the help of the folks over athttp://www.androidtablets.netI’ve managed to do a couple of things with it like update the firmware to the latest version and achieve root (doing nothing more than running z4root).It’s rumored that 2.2 is coming down the line for them, but we’ll see.The thing was usable before, but with very little tweaking becomes a very decent little device.There are a TON of affordable little Android tablets out there, and some of them aren’t even crap!-and that’s the pitfall kids -most of them are crap.Hacking one of these things looks pretty darn cool, and it’s an awesome hack, especially since the hardware seems to be pretty good, but I’m having a decent time with my Haipad for now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283416",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T11:16:07",
"content": "my comment is awaiting moderation…Wow. Bummer you folks have to work that much harder now. Sorry to see that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283538",
"author": "pod",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T16:38:33",
"content": "install launcher pro and start uninstalling by drag and drop",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283574",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:28:32",
"content": "Anyone got the Kindle app running on it yet?That is the one reason I wasn’t going to buy one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283637",
"author": "huuv888",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:42:38",
"content": "@jeditalian: Caribou Lou!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283745",
"author": "docodine",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T01:07:21",
"content": "kindle works",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283788",
"author": "johnopsec",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T03:23:15",
"content": "Heads-up!We now have Android market and GMail working. Check out the Nook Color section of xda-developer.com",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283841",
"author": "Sigma1990",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T06:29:44",
"content": "I rooted my color about a week ago, found a ton of software apps best is APPLANET set up a file and you have the market apps free. Appinstaller and appmonster pro or ASTRO file will help with loading and uninstalling apps. and look up an app called spare parts to make all your apps compatible with the screen. I have a droid X and get 90% of what I can on the DX on my NOOKcolor plus the NOOK and KINDLE features are better on the NOOKcolor. Especially magizines on the Nook…… after about a week of searching all of your issues will be clear just look in the right places.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283973",
"author": "TheCarlos",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T12:38:38",
"content": "Now, I wonder if anyone has gotten any of the comic book viewers to run.-c",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284225",
"author": "nchntr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T21:51:31",
"content": "There is a whole lot of dev action at slatedroid(dot)com. The Pandigital Novel (another ereader) has been tweaked with market and many other Android features. If the nook will respond to ADB (Android DeBug Interface) than many of the how-to’s such as market enabling and the like should also apply (or could be reworked) to the nook.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284277",
"author": "azlon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T00:12:58",
"content": "Just a quick tip for any android device. Use dropbox to quickly install apps when you don’t have an app store. Also great for sharing apps between friends.Since I install a new ROM every other day or so I just keep the dropbox.apk handy, install it first, then just go down the list and install all my favorite apps.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284890",
"author": "man",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T07:24:40",
"content": "hey everyone to get apps from the android market you can use astro app and back up ur apps and transfer them to the NC, a tip to put any app and ur paid ones too. but you have to have a rooted phone. their a lot of apps to make this the best android tablet. enjoy",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285270",
"author": "Ash",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T04:09:18",
"content": "I just got mine working, as of dec 16, the current auto-nooter enables the marketplace.This thing is badass. Battery life definitely along what was advertised.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "292580",
"author": "inthefrey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-29T17:00:41",
"content": "Although I could have done the rooting myself, I paid a guy $60 to do it for me. It took about 30 minutes. He remoted into my PC, loaded the new OS, rand the scripts and it was done.Now, a bunch of the forums are saying that this upgrade may cause the battery in the unit to go critical and explode. Is there any truth to this and, is there a way to prevent it? Thanks!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "292861",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T03:44:48",
"content": "@inthefrey,If he did the root at 2.1, your battery is fine. If he did the early version of 2.2, it disables the software battery protection. However, I’ve read that there is a hardware failsafe as well.",
"parent_id": "292580",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "292931",
"author": "basotl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T06:44:32",
"content": "@inthefreyIf you have it just rooted and not running the early aosp build from sd then that issue does not even come in anywhere.If running the early build then yes there is no software monitoring fix was in the works last I checked but as said hardware has controls also.Your fine either way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293165",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T18:05:34",
"content": "This post almost made me run out and buy a Nook, but after some much researching, the Archos 70 has more features and is faster. And yes, it can be rooted as well. Just FYI for anyone weighing their options.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293181",
"author": "Paul Darr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T18:40:50",
"content": "@Bill PorterFor me the features of double the ram and higher screen resolution trumped the features of the Archos 70 but I can understand how it would be better for some others depending on their usage.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293197",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T18:59:00",
"content": "Yeah higher rez and mem is nice. I like the hdmi port, usb host,camera and 1ghz cpu for 720p rendering a little more though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293238",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T20:34:10",
"content": "Wow, so the Nook color isn’t awesome in the screen resolution after-all. I was confused by the NookDevs spec site, which says “Hardware Scaling: 854×480 scaled to 1024×600 ” under the GPU section. What exactly does that mean?I did some googling for the GPU chipset, and found sites that say it’s render resolution is only 854×480, though I will admit I may be reading it wrong.But what you do find if you google ‘Nook color 854×480’ is that the nook refuses to render video over that resolution, which makes sense if the chipset max res is that resolution.So if this is true, the Nook really isn’t a higher res device then the Archos 70. It has a physically higher res screen, but it’s not rendering that much res, only scaling up to that many pixels.Please someone show me where I’m wrong (which I admit I most likely am). But at least for videos the Archos 70 wins via same resolution but faster processor and support for true 720p video rendering via HDMI port.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293250",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T20:57:43",
"content": "Ok, answer my own question. Android only supports up to 854×480 resolution. Until maybe 3.0, all screens, no matter what physical resolution, are limited to 854×480. I didn’t know that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293251",
"author": "Paul Darr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T21:00:23",
"content": "@Bill PorterFor the default video player using hardware encoding yes. Though the default player is also limited on codecs.If you use a another player like RockPlayer it can output at the device max resolution.Though with the upcoming community builds of Android for the Nook Color it appears that will easily be over come if B&N doesn’t do so themselves in their upcoming update.Then again most of my video is encoded at 640×480 from when I backed up my DVD’s originally and I’m too lazy to rip them again.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293271",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T21:11:29",
"content": "@PaulNo Android apps can render over 854 x 480 resolution right now. It’s a limitation of the core Android system. So even if you are using a player that can play higher res videos, it only renders them at 854×480 and the hardware is scaling it to screen resolution. That won’t change till Android 3.0, and Google is only ‘hinting’ that.Now I understand what NookDevs meant by “Hardware Scaling: 854×480 scaled to 1024×600”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293306",
"author": "Paul Darr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T21:48:35",
"content": "So I see the programs are downscaling them essentially. An interesting note is the default player is more picky on what it downscales from at least what I have seen other users report.@Bill what is your normal memory usage?With everything I like loaded I found I use 200-215 Mbs of memory before I even open some the programs I like to use at once such as web browser, irc, ebooks. That’s why I didn’t even look at devices with less than 512 of memory.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "293317",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-30T22:13:08",
"content": "I have a Samsung Galaxy S, which only has 326 MB usable. I’ve had 10+ apps open with no slow down.With nothing running, it only uses 130MB. Web, email, chat and music player all running is 200MB. Throw on Angry Birds and its 240MB.So yeah, more RAM is always better, but I find it’s still usable with less. After all it’s linux, so I assume it handles low memory somewhat efficiently.But the rest of the features, 720p hardware accelerated video, HDMI, 1Ghz, camera, working bluetooth, microphone and USB host more appealing for what I want to do with it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "294959",
"author": "Zanabar",
"timestamp": "2011-01-02T18:56:53",
"content": "Rooted NC via auto nooter. Can’t put the thing down. Took a while to figure out how to install apk’s without using the command line – but it can be done. Chugs the battery though. Where can i get a cool hack a day sticker for mine??",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.442586
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/12/jacobs-ladder-using-el-wire/
|
Jacob’s Ladder Using EL Wire
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Arduino Hacks"
] |
[
"el wire",
"electroluminescent",
"jacob's ladder"
] |
For Halloween [Paul] wanted to build a Jacob’s Ladder without the peril that working with high voltage might bring. He was inspired by a sequencer board for electroluminescent wire and
decided to build a Jacob’s Ladder simulator
using the glowing material. What he ended up with is quite convincing. Eight segments of EL wire have been mounted between two diverging towers. When a PIR sensor detects motion in the room, an Arduino switches on the simulation, playing a recording of the classic sizzling voltage sound while using the sequencer board to flicker the wires from bottom to top. See for yourself in the video after the break. We give [Paul] bonus points for constructing the base out of Lego.
But if you’re not one for being cautions, there’s always
this real Jacob’s Ladder build
. Or maybe you just want to
make something glow with the EL wire
.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uz4ZCiygqmc&w=470]
[via
Make
]
| 19
| 19
|
[
{
"comment_id": "282979",
"author": "grenadier",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T16:46:08",
"content": "Why doesn’t this site have a facepalm button?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282987",
"author": "DarkFader",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T17:14:50",
"content": "That left plasma thing is much cooler. Where can I buy that?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282990",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T17:20:09",
"content": "This was on Sparkfun a month or two ago. I’ll say the same here I said there.Being a fellow Evil Mad Scientist, there’s no substitute for real HV plasma. This is good for a 2 year old’s night light, but I’ll never give up the true sources of plasma around my workbench, and even on my desk at work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282993",
"author": "stormdog",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T17:32:41",
"content": "Very cool. I wonder if the wires are rugged enough to incorporate into a costume.(maybe a Jacobs ladder-like antenna on your head?)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282997",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T18:00:15",
"content": "Sorry, but if you’ve seen a *real* jacob’s ladder, then you’ll find this thing incredibly dissapointing> I second Bill’s night light comment.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283022",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T19:02:13",
"content": "Now add some canned laughter and obama doing a ‘it gets better’ speech and you’ll have a fakery extravaganza?Nice for some tv-set on the background maybe, but if I was a director I’d tell to get the real thing even then.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283050",
"author": "Lemonmaster0",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T20:11:22",
"content": "You people seem to be missing the point. He made this specifically because he has young children around and for some reason, he doesn’t want them electrocuted.Yes, I have worked with a real Jacob’s ladder. This is a pretty good alternative for someone who isn’t comfortable around high voltage equipment.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283059",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T20:25:55",
"content": "It always better if a kid touch HV with limited current and later on become fascinated about electronics than electrically virgin adult touching HV with real juice and drop dead",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283068",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T21:16:40",
"content": "@therianHaha, so true. I disassembled a (charged) photo flash when I was about 6, and received the *shock* of my life. Been fascinated ever since ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283075",
"author": "Supertzar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T21:30:46",
"content": "I don’t think the intent here was to necessarily fool anyone into thinking it is a real HV spark. It sounds like it was more for the effect and to see if a convincing simulation could be made with the EL wire. If you take it for what it is and not for what it’s not, he still did a good job making a cool Halloween prop.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283100",
"author": "Lemonmaster0",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T22:42:09",
"content": "@therianYes, the kids could go on to become great hackers. Or, it could scare the crap out of them and turn them into the same people that think a flashing LED is a bomb. It’s double edged sword.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283106",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T23:10:39",
"content": "A regular Jacob’s ladder can be made safe by encasing the rods in a glass tube, like every museum that has one has done. This is just a (well made but still) poor substitute for a fascinating phenomenon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283145",
"author": "Brennan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T00:50:36",
"content": "@WhatNotPolitics have no business on HAD. Please take that crap elsewhere.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283156",
"author": "neimad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T01:07:08",
"content": "I once built a real Jacobs Ladder out of two 3 foot long metal sparklers. The spark did indeed jump and eventually would ignite the sparklers. hours of fun.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283227",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T03:28:27",
"content": "@Brennan you have no place on the planet, please remove yourself promptly.Your mail will be forwarded (budget permitting).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283272",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T05:35:13",
"content": "actually I set up traps (ceramic capacitors with wires) so my puppy shock herself and newer chew on really dangerous wire again, same should be done with kids",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283498",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T14:52:00",
"content": "@BrennanHahaha, I sense a butthurt obama lover xD@therianYou, sir, have given me a much needed morning laugh. Best comment on HaD ever.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283639",
"author": "asheets",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T20:49:06",
"content": "I prefer this hack instead:http://www.afrotechmods.com/reallycheap/Jacob/jacob.htm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283824",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T05:56:39",
"content": "It’s cool but it’s pretty clear even from a distance in a dark blurry clip it’s not real.Jacob’s Ladders have more of a ‘swath’ of arc as the ionized air moves up, rather than a single point of contact and a nice tidy single arc.Perhaps re-build with EL tape?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.557914
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/11/kids-type-with-their-eyes-robot-arm-prints-their-words/
|
Kids Type With Their Eyes, Robot Arm Prints Their Words
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"eyewriter",
"ir",
"led",
"robotagger",
"tracking"
] |
F.A.T. took it to the next level, combining a couple of their projects for the Cinekid festival. This contraption lets
kids write their names with their eyes for printing by a robot arm
. The first part is a glasses-free version of
the EyeWriter
, originally developed as an assistive technology. The system uses some IR LEDs to generate a reflection on your eye that a PS3 camera can pick up and use to precisely track your gaze. Just look at each key on a virtual keyboard to spell out your message. From there, a robot arm used previously in the
Robotagger
project prints out the name on a big sheet of paper the kids can take home. This is cool, but more importantly it’s a great way to inspire the next generation of hackers and engineers. Check out the video after the break.
[vimeo=http://vimeo.com/16282734]
| 12
| 12
|
[
{
"comment_id": "282640",
"author": "Julien",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T22:19:36",
"content": "That’s really cool!I love the eye tracking!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282722",
"author": "ThatGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T01:36:24",
"content": "Nice a fancy X,Y plotter.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282723",
"author": "ChalkBored",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T01:38:35",
"content": "The next generation in gaming. When people get sick of jumping around like a tool, yet still don’t want to hold a controller.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282755",
"author": "xef6",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T02:38:28",
"content": "i really wish people would try using dasher with eye-tracking.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282762",
"author": "Alex Rossie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T02:55:40",
"content": "How comes this isn’t on the front page?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282828",
"author": "Casey O'Donnell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T06:27:46",
"content": "dasher is great for this sort of thing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282837",
"author": "blah",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T07:09:18",
"content": "there is a not front page?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283062",
"author": "nonygons",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T20:34:13",
"content": "totally beat me to dasher",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283063",
"author": "Oren Beck",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T20:38:03",
"content": "Some things that appear at “first glance” to merely be entertainment and/or artistic devices can be -more.Mentioning this optical tracking project as having adaptive/assistance potentials is an understatement. For the Psych Boost that a person feeling trapped in their body could get from this unit and it’s descendants is inestimable. This is not only a credit to it’s creators- it’s emblematic of how Hackerdom can use our arts tools as a life enhancement system.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283160",
"author": "Tech B.",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T01:16:34",
"content": "Did anyone notice this article being gone last night?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283331",
"author": "xef6",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T07:59:26",
"content": "@Oren BeckI completely agree in every way. However, if you actually try and use the direct map key-lingering approach yourself, you’ll soon realize that it’s a fatiguing and frustratingly slow method of text input (especially if you intend to communicate in realtime).Try looking up dasher on youtube. It might blow your mind. It can easily be mapped to an eye-tracking input, and makes for an almost painfully intuitive way of “typing” without hands. And as an extra plus, it’s pretty much guaranteed to be *much* faster! (try up to 30wpm)OSS wheee!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284824",
"author": "asdf",
"timestamp": "2010-12-16T04:13:54",
"content": "Would it be unreasonable to think that dogs/cats other animals may be able to communicate using this method?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.66146
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/11/rc-plane-built-using-pieces-of-an-rc-car/
|
RC Plane Built Using Pieces Of An RC Car
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Toy Hacks"
] |
[
"airplane",
"car",
"coil",
"magnet",
"rare-earth",
"rc",
"solenoid"
] |
This hack’s old as dirt to be sure, but new to us and a great accomplishment. The plane above, which is meant to fly without an operator, has been
given RC control thanks to parts from that little car
. The transmitter and receiver pair are the obvious transplant, but how do you add steering to a $7 plane that wasn’t manufactured to have that feature? The tail was cut and reconnected with mylar hinges to turn it into a rudder. A rare earth magnet and a coil are also thrown into the mix to provide movement. Basically this is
a simple solenoid
where the coil pushes against the magnet when energized, actuating the rudder. This in combination with an upgraded motor allows for both speed control and yaw. It doesn’t look like you can control roll and pitch but what more can you really expect?
This would be a nice first step on that path to building
an epic flying camera rig
.
[Thanks Rob]
| 17
| 15
|
[
{
"comment_id": "282567",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T20:33:44",
"content": "nice, i wonder if it can be done easier though, maybe just with weights attached to the servo somehowwish there was video",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282576",
"author": "Required",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T21:04:39",
"content": "Heads up folks – at least in Canada there are *specific and different* freq’s assigned for air vs land RC vehicles.So transplanting from one to the other is potentially very, very improper.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282584",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T21:11:30",
"content": "Awesome hack. Those little cars are pretty sweet too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282591",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T21:36:03",
"content": "Great hack!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282596",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T21:47:39",
"content": "There’s so much you can do with those little $5 charge-a-car controller things.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282653",
"author": "tdel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T22:51:53",
"content": "Seconding Required’s issue, the aircraft frequency is kept separate to prevent ground vehicles from bringing down a possibly sizable nitro-powered onto a spectator.-Debbie Downer",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282655",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T22:56:32",
"content": "ok whos making a heli next .",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282730",
"author": "eafd",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T01:57:55",
"content": "Lol, this article was posted before almost 5 years ago:http://hackaday.com/2005/01/22/radio-controlled-airplane-from-a-micro-rc-car/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "282770",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T03:42:42",
"content": "That makes two dupes from ages ago this week. We’re slipping.",
"parent_id": "282730",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "282764",
"author": "Rob Wentworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T03:14:21",
"content": "The site and its links mention that you should use only freqs legal in your country. For the US that would be 27 MHz and 49 MHz, which may be used for any R/C vehicle including planes or cars. They also mention removing the “crippling caps” (added to allow multiple races in the same room) to extend range so you can fly the plane in a small park.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "591582",
"author": "flier",
"timestamp": "2012-02-29T05:37:07",
"content": "im a total rookie,so im goin to try “air hog wing flier” with just the steering survo and controler from rc car for tail rudder.so i bought the plane $15 Can. “rc car free.” i’ll let u know if this basic than the bare bones works.let me know on here if anyone has done this?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1103576",
"author": "Galane",
"timestamp": "2013-11-17T02:22:09",
"content": "Hack a 27 and a 49 transmitter into a single control box and use both receivers. That’ll get you four channels that each do two direction control.Use the two steering outputs for rudder and elevator and the second motor output for ailerons.Could get two speed motor control by running reverse through a polarity switching and voltage reducing circuit so hitting reverse slows the prop down just enough to put the plane into a powered glide while forward does full power for climbing.Depending on the transmitters and receivers, it might be possible to add more functions by pressing both forward and reverse or left and right at the same time. Depends on whether or not the transmitter will send both signals together and what the receiver does.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6207601",
"author": "Christopher Gurin",
"timestamp": "2020-01-05T00:04:27",
"content": "Has anyone ever tried this? Assume a simple connection to the single antenna from respective coils on both transmitter and receivers is all that’s needed, that would resolve a bunch of two channel compromises, but introduces (possibly) a bigger one for a flying model: battery requirements on the receiver side. This might NOT be a big deal since the controllers are not proportional but more on/off. Other issue: might still be interference despite separate signals. If anyone has tried this, or has better subject knowledge, please post. Otherwise, there’s a bunch of thrift shops in my area that are terrific RC car “bone yards” I can scavenge from, and may try this out on my own.",
"parent_id": "1103576",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "1131661",
"author": "Button Nemes",
"timestamp": "2013-12-12T19:38:53",
"content": "realy nice realy realy nice thanks i live in romania and it is realy hard to find parts and its freakin expensive to buy a plane it is like 200 300 dollars here a simple 4 channel rc so if anyone finds a weay to build an airplane like shown here please contact me on my facebook page Nemes Button pls help i realy want to fly",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "3188668",
"author": "Allice Taylor",
"timestamp": "2016-09-08T18:32:50",
"content": "Building an RC Plane as a project is one of the most wonderful DIY things you can do as a hobby. It requires a great deal of patience to accomplish a fully-functional unit. This article helped me build one, and in another helpful article as well:http://mydronelab.com/blog/how-to-make-an-rc-plane.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "3188726",
"author": "Allice Taylor",
"timestamp": "2016-09-08T19:40:39",
"content": "This is a very nifty project! I love to do it and even coming from a six year old article, the information is still relevant. I really think I can do something like this soon. Aside from this inspiring article, I also found another piece worth checking out if you want to build your own RC plane:http://mydronelab.com/blog/how-to-make-an-rc-plane.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "3269826",
"author": "seth",
"timestamp": "2016-11-14T01:50:25",
"content": "Ok I know I’m probably late.. however I’m still commenting. So a rc car has a front axle that is able to move enabling the turning feature. So if you don’t mind having a larger body airplane you can keep the motherboard and wiring then you can somehow hook up the steering to the wing flaps enabling it to turn.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.614771
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/11/using-analog-voltage-references-with-arduino/
|
Using Analog Voltage References With Arduino
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"adc",
"analog voltage reference",
"aref",
"voltage divider"
] |
Little Bird Electronics posted an article about
using an analog voltage reference with Arduino
. This is a tool available when using an analog-to-digital converter. By setting up either an internal or external AREF, you can better use the ADC considering its resolution limitations. For instance, if you are measuring a signal that you know will always be below 2V, an external circuit, such as a voltage divider or an adjustable regulator, can give you a reference voltage just above that upper limit; say 2.5V. This way the 1024 divisions of resolution will be spread across your signal’s range, rather than just the lower half of the ADC readings.
Analog references are common to microcontrollers that have ADCs. Even if you’re not working with an Arduino, read through the article and use what you learn with your uC of choice.
| 31
| 31
|
[
{
"comment_id": "282535",
"author": "Alex Rossie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T19:18:22",
"content": "Worst post ever ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282555",
"author": "tulcod",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T19:48:19",
"content": "@Alex Rossie:Why’s that? It explains a neat little trick that will prove most useful in some projects where you have to mess around with analog voltages. Sounds to me like you just don’t understand it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282558",
"author": "Alex Rossie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T19:57:04",
"content": "@tulcod, whats to understand it’s a voltage divider attached to the Aref pin.This post would only serve a moron, that is a moron who couldn’t use google to find the documentation on this athttp://arduino.cc/en/Reference/AnalogReferenceNow stop trollin’",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282560",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T20:00:59",
"content": "@Alex Rossie/disagree",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282573",
"author": "seanfalloy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T20:48:50",
"content": "How ever simple and basic this is alot of people using the arduino are just starting out with ucontrollers and those thoughts do not always occur to them. I remember when I first started I didnt know every little trick. and for that matter still dont.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282574",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T20:49:35",
"content": "good tip but isn’t that what the AREF is supposed to be there for? so basically it’s not a hack",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282582",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T21:10:44",
"content": "He’s wrongfully saying that the external voltage reference may be between zero and 5V which is incorrect. The voltage reference should be between 1V and VCC. Check the datasheet….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282586",
"author": "Eardrill",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T21:23:59",
"content": "A voltage divider hanging between Vcc and Ground is going to inherit whatever noise problems may exist on the Vcc line. The derived reference should at least be bypassed, I think.A much better solution is to use an external voltage reference, IMO.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282590",
"author": "seanfalloy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T21:34:52",
"content": "@EardrillI have always bypassed my VREF but I was just thinking if you leave it at VCC with the noise assuming the same noise is on the sample pin these would cancel out (like an differential input) and give a better reading.?I dont think I would ever do this but just a thought",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282632",
"author": "dext3r",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T22:02:31",
"content": "agree with zool. this is a good tidbit, i guess, but im 99% sure you’d come across this if you just read a couple paragraphs from the datasheet regarding A/D conversions.this is why arduino sucks in a way, most people wouldnt think to just go read the atmel datasheet…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282635",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T22:05:21",
"content": "@Dext3r: that’s what’s great about Arduino. Most people wouldn’t just go and get into programming microcontrollers. This will wet many people’s appetites who otherwise wouldn’t have even tried, resulting in more electronic hobbyists.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282644",
"author": "dext3r",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T22:30:21",
"content": "@Mike Szczys,dont get me wrong, i agree. arduino is pretty great overall. something like this would have been noticed though if you were setting up A/D on your own, so its almost like running in circles, regurgitating the same info. perhaps it could be better on Arduino if the reference was included as part of AnalogRead() in some way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282654",
"author": "Boglarr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T22:55:21",
"content": "Why not just use a Zener diode? find one with the right breakdown voltage and set it parallel to ground with the external voltage pin and you are good to go.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282658",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T23:05:31",
"content": "This is the oldest trick in the book when it comes to ADC’s, I thought this site was about “hacks”?? :P@Mike SzcysIncorrect, sir. A good percentage of the dedicated EE majors I went to school with were playing with microcontrollers since their early high school years, or earlier.Your average “arduino” user will learn very little from simply plugging in code from other people’s projects. The real men (and, ahem, ladies) are defined when they break away from this sheltered little “arduino” world and work with MCU’s on their own! I’m betting that >90% of arduino users have never perused an MCU data sheet, as dext3r says.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282665",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T23:30:38",
"content": "@Ekaj: I’ve learned the most from a project which was made by someone else, but then I started to look at datasheets ;)@Mike Szczys: It’s great that more people will get into uC, but “make it easy enough that even stupid people can use it and it will be used by stupid people”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282690",
"author": "Andy Lippitt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T00:14:34",
"content": "This site’s spirit of hacking seems to be about accessibility above most else. No need to knock the intros.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282702",
"author": "Daid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T00:33:47",
"content": "This is exactly why I hate the Arduino. This is really really REALLY basic stuff.For my next hack, I will set an IO pin to an output! WHOHOO!! And I only needed to use a 30 euro Arduino. And 10kb flash of library.This is no hack, this is putting two lego pieces together and calling it a house.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282767",
"author": "eric",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T03:31:40",
"content": "@Mike Szcys,Whet is the appropriate term, not wet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282810",
"author": "medix",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T05:02:45",
"content": "I may have missed something (I only skimmed the article) but I didn’t see ANY reference that mentions the proper way to do this (ie. using a dedicated reference supply (IC), well regulated, and noise free).This is what’s wrong with Arduino. It’s either the easy way, or nothing. It would be different if the proper way to do this were taught.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282835",
"author": "tjb",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T07:03:12",
"content": "I agree this is not really a hack. It is nice info if I ever need to use the analog IO for some thing other than reading a pot.I wish the arguing over Arduino vs other development platforms would just go away. I use Arduino for developing custom products for my business. I like the form factor of the varius boards. I USE to do LOTS of programming in varius languages. Unfortunately I did not do much in any of the C variants.So I am getting work done that needs doing and getting back in to programming. It also looks like if I need to do some thing directly in C I can. So get over it. After I get good with this I will try to program a few PIC chips I ended up with.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282890",
"author": "cantido",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T09:41:59",
"content": "@tjb>I USE to do LOTS of programming in varius >languages.So what? The only languages that matter in the uC world are C and assembly.>So I am getting work done that needs>doing and getting back in to programming.And your employer is fine with you using lots of third party code a lot of which is GPL etc? Have you had your legal department sign that off?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282900",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T10:26:32",
"content": "@cantido some of us DO use GPL code. I work in php, my company typically writes customized plugins and systems for other companies using already existing cms system like Typo3. This way we can do in one week things that could take our competitors about a month. We always give clients code so if they want they can take it and go to someone other for support. We just try to make everything as good as possible so that clients stay with us ;). Using gpl comercially is a viable business model.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282912",
"author": "cantido",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T11:43:12",
"content": "@yetiheheYes, I have used GPL code too (big companies require code audits and only special approved versions of third party code to be used though)… delivering a plugin for a CMS written in PHP is a little bit different than an embedded device however… One of the big differences being that because PHP is an interpreter you actually escape most of the issues involved in distributing third party code as PHP includes/links against that code and you don’t directly ship it, you just call it.PHP is essentially the Arduino of the interwebs.In your situation you only have to give the code to your client under the GPL.. I’m not totally sure that would be the case though, I’m sure you could get away without sharing any code. I guess it depends on what you consider a “derivative work”.If an embedded product contains GPL code which is attached to some piece of super secret IP and you’re shipping lots of units containing your GPL tainted super secret IP you suddenly have a lot of people that have a legal right to your super secret IP(TM).Web development != The whole computing/tech industry whatever “web developers” might think.> Using gpl comercially is a>viable business model.Not if you can’t ship your product anymore because you didn’t properly understand the issues involved. Whether or not “using GPL commercially” is a “viable business model” isn’t the issue anyhow. There are businesses doing well and businesses doing badly on both sides of the fence. Open code definitely benefits the small time developer because it means they can “do” (or at least make out that they have) a lot more in less time… the original funds that paid for all that lovely code your using might not be something you agree with though (think DARPA, think all the not so nice players in the web world).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282971",
"author": "Gösta",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T16:14:56",
"content": "Great article. Remember that for every complaint or whine posted here, there’s hundreds and hundreds of arduino hackers that enjoy reading this. If it’s too simple or trivial for some of you guys, then remember that you are a minority, get over it already. Use your great knowledge to contribute some articles instead.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282978",
"author": "tjb",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T16:40:26",
"content": "@cantidoI OWN the business in question. Some projects just get done and out the door. Some projects get a registered copyright. Some just used internally. It depends on the project.This is not my main biz. Just a side thing that grew out of solving our own needs in elegant ways.As far as the languages I use to use I guess I was not very clear. Once you know how to program the language is not important. Good coding practices apply to ALL languages. If you understand an how to loop and branch and WHY to do it then the rest is just the syntax.At least the Arduino IDE is similar enough to C that making the leap to just using C is not that big. Certainly less of a learning curve than Basic or some of the old database report languages.Whining about some one using an Arduino in a project is like whining that some one used LEDs and resistors. They are just a component and in this case a tool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283061",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T20:32:35",
"content": "OK seriously if you dont know this do youself a favor- step on you arduino and crush it to bites , now go to bookstore and really begin this time",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283087",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T22:00:12",
"content": "@yetihehe if you didn’t use typo 3 you’d have it done in a day instead of a week :P@learn to spell before you trash other people? :)To be honest this isn’t a hack, far from it, it’s also debatable how usable it really is. But at least it raises awareness of a certain function – i guess that’s worth something.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283380",
"author": "jan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T10:22:52",
"content": "what is it with the arduino that seperates the masses? its simple to use because it hides the complexity you actually dont need. if one day you thinkyou could need more complexity or features, no problem, they are there!I really really cant understand all this elitist crap anymore.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283464",
"author": "cantido",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T13:48:15",
"content": "@tjb>As far as the languages I use>to use I guess I was not very clear.Well, on an MCU you will be using either C and some assembly (Start up code, platform specific stuff that isn’t covered by C and/or you don’t have toolchain vendor supplied macros for) or assembly.. It’s all very well chaining together “almost C with a massive library of prewritten code” but what happens when you actually need to know what your micro is doing? If you know how the status register(s), interrupt system, SFR’s etc work on one platform you can apply it to another.. but if that has been totally hidden from you and you can do stuff like i2c or SPI with a single call to some supplied code I would argue that you haven’t learned an awful lot. In this case if you had read the datasheet to work out how to use the AVR’s ADC you would have bumped into how to use it’s reference voltage pin..If you’re knocking up some blinky LEDs and consider yourself more of an artist that’s fine but trying to sell Arduino as the greatest thing since sliced bread for embedded development is just meh.>If you understand an how to loop and branch>and WHY to do it then the rest>is just the syntax.Ok, let’s throw this into the mix.. if your platform has a DMA controller does doing a simple copy byte from src to dst n times turn into a DMA transfer? Even simpler.. if you do multiple linear byte transfers does the compiler turn that into transfers of the best size for your platform?In normal high level programming with an OS you basically don’t have to give a shit but in the low level bare metal world these things are important.>At least the Arduino IDE is similar enough to CIDE != Programming language though. You are comparing two different things.Does the Arduino IDE support debugging beyond printing out of the serial port yet? Does it have GDB integration or anything useful like that?>that making the leap to just using CJumping from hand-held C (Arduino) to hand-held C (Toolchain with support headers, macros etc) isn’t that big of a jump maybe. Depends on what you get doesn’t it? C is a very sparse language and most of it’s functionality comes from your libraries (The most important of which being your standard c library). With the AVR you have libc-avr which has lots of juicy goodness (it’s what the Arduino stuff is based on after all). Getting C running on a baremetal platform without pre-supplied startup code, linker scripts etc is a massive pain in the ass.>than BasicAny basic is going to be hand-held though… the very fact that basic is running on your chip or you have a compiler that will spit out working machine code from basic source for you shows that someone else has been there and done the hard work(tm) for you. Even assembly can be simplified to the point where anyone can do it.. DOS is a great platform to do X86 assembly because you can use int 21h. ;)>Whining about some one using an ArduinoWhen people “whine about the arduino” it’s usually that it was unnecessary (i.e. a 555 could have been used instead) or that the problem solved was trivial and doesn’t really deserve to be a “hack” or any back patting.. and then come the “I use Arduino! it is the bestest thing in the world! All you haters don’t know how good it is!”. I guess what happens is getting a blinky LED working so quickly goes to peoples heads.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283561",
"author": "tjb",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:06:32",
"content": "@cantidoI think part of the problem here is you Assume that any one who used Arduino does not know any thing about the underlying hardware. And I will agree there are a large number who don’t. Some don’t know the difference between the micro-controller and a shift register. Those are the ones who use an Arduino where a 555 (or even just a couple of transistors and other components would work.)After a while they get board and go away or they learn more. At some point they out grow the Arduino IDE and simple C and need to do more. Some times they just have to figure out how to address a pin directly. The Arduino IDE and language does allow for this. The hardware is NOT as hidden as much as you seam to imply. It is there if you decide to look.Then you have the group who really DO know what is going on under the hood. They are the ones writing the libraries and getting more stuff to work with it.To me it is just a tool. One tool in a very large array of tools. I use it where it works for me. I also look at data sheets.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "526009",
"author": "gbrecke",
"timestamp": "2011-12-03T22:57:43",
"content": "Wow, what a waste of a thread, is this about information,or a place to crow?some of us haven’t done a project since the 8085 and it’s single voltage and bi directional bus made it easier to wire wrap a home PC.We remember when direct modems were illegal, but we built them anyway..Some of us are rusty, we enjoy the Arduino because it’s easy and far less expensive, than most of what we’ve seen.I used to have most of the pin outs memorized in families of chips.. not anymore..Call me a Moron if you like, but in my travels, it’s the man that knows everthing you want to steer clear of :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,320.290762
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/11/using-a-chicken-as-a-steadicam/
|
Using A Chicken As A Steadicam
|
Caleb Kraft
|
[
"digital cameras hacks"
] |
[
"chicken",
"steadicam"
] |
This has been circulating around the net for a bit. For those that haven’t seen it, let me just give you a quick rundown of what is happening. This guy
strapped a camera to a chicken’s head
. No really, that’s it. There’s some interesting science behind it though. He’s taking advantage of the
Vestibulo-Ocular Reflex
in the chicken. It is basically the reflex that we use to keep our eyes firmly focused on something while our head is moving. In a chicken however, they move their entire head. This means that he can strap a camera to the chicken’s head and have an instant steadicam. At least that is the theory. As you can see in the video after the break, the harder part is getting the chicken to look at what you want it to look at. We also found a conversation about it with the creator,[MrPennywhistle] in some
reddit comments
.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UytSNlHw8J8&w=470]
| 61
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "282466",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T16:45:47",
"content": "He should use a better chicken, probably those russian chickens are more calm ;)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXUeO3auRZg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282467",
"author": "DanAdamKOF",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T16:47:11",
"content": "This is awesome and a bid absurd, I am cracking up here.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282469",
"author": "Sean T.",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T16:50:34",
"content": "LOLz! PETA is going to have a fit when they see this!It is a cool homebrew experiment. Kudos.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282470",
"author": "SS",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T16:50:45",
"content": "@ yetiheheAmazing! Really funny video and pretty steady :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282473",
"author": "jim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T16:56:24",
"content": "Genius",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282475",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T16:58:45",
"content": "lol in the awkward silence, i knew the chicken was gonna do that, but i LoL’d hardcore for just waking up",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282476",
"author": "Henrik Pedersen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T16:59:40",
"content": "Lol he hacked at chicken? xD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282483",
"author": "ChrisE",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T17:11:04",
"content": "LOL! Very clever. What’s up with the safety glasses? I’m sure the chicken won’t attack him.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282485",
"author": "knuckles904",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T17:14:50",
"content": "Lol, awesome vid. When does chicken hacks get a tag on the right side?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282486",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T17:16:32",
"content": "Im going to do that with my Rooster LOL",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282487",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T17:18:02",
"content": "ahhhh yes the ol’ chicken method :)i believe this is how jaws was shot@knuckles904IDK we have more than enough chicken hacks XDhttp://hackaday.com/?s=Chicken",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282498",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T17:38:14",
"content": "Anyone else think of The Flintstones when they saw this?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282509",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T18:14:16",
"content": "Question is, what hardware must that chicken be packing to do this? I reckon on at least a couple of three way gyros in its head and a whole bunch of servos in the neck. Maybe some fancy image object tracking by its eyes. Geez that thing must have cost a fortune. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282522",
"author": "Tod",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T18:47:02",
"content": "Finally! I’ve been wondering what to do with this chicken on my workbench… now I have an idea to work with.Maybe a new HackAFarmAnimal.com site will be up soon! lol.Yeah, this is great.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282526",
"author": "Branno",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T18:51:29",
"content": "@BiOZZWow, there are a lot of chicken hacks here. Never noticed that before. I guess now it is time to add a chicken category.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282532",
"author": "Sariel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T19:11:03",
"content": "I totally called the poop!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282549",
"author": "arjan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T19:34:16",
"content": "LOL! “My wife’s gonna kill me”. cool. I bet servo’s can do this too…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282553",
"author": "macegr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T19:45:30",
"content": "Mike: “BAAAWCK! It’s a living!”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282556",
"author": "Zmaster",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T19:53:08",
"content": "ROTFL",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282557",
"author": "wilfite",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T19:56:17",
"content": "PETA? You mean People for the Eating of Tasty Animals? Can’t see why they’re have a problem with it…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282571",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T20:45:09",
"content": "was liking this untill i saw the unnecessary psalm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282572",
"author": "truthspew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T20:46:14",
"content": "Had me right up to the biblical quotation. Wrecked a perfectly good Chicken Steady Cam video.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282583",
"author": "FaSMaB",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T21:11:05",
"content": "@Tod , you’ve still got yours, I’ve ate mine a long time ago…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282585",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T21:13:54",
"content": "Impressive!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282592",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T21:38:49",
"content": "Great!Now we just need layada to reverse engineer it and sell it as a kit!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282593",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T21:41:59",
"content": "Possibly the weirdest thing I’ve seen on HAD.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282649",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T22:40:06",
"content": "Sorry, but Cats do the same thing if you’ve ever picked one up and moved it up and down.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282651",
"author": "Charper",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T22:48:27",
"content": "I love how at around 1:50 the chicken keeps eyeing the microwave… It’s like he knows.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282660",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T23:06:42",
"content": "OH MY GOD.I love this project. My mom has dozens of chickens, I’ll put a few of the extras up on eBay if there are any takers. I’m sure they’d survive FedEx overnight ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282667",
"author": "1000100 1000001 1010110 1000101",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T23:33:34",
"content": "LMFAO",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282671",
"author": "kyoorius",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T23:48:28",
"content": "next up… the chicken controlled segway.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282672",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T23:48:50",
"content": "When I heard they put a camera on a cock I had a WHOLE different idea! Anyway chickens can see in ultraviolet so if you want to get the chicken to focus on somthing why not point a flashing ultraviolet light at it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282689",
"author": "qwerty",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T00:11:10",
"content": "“I’m Chicken of Borg, your photons will be assimilated!”.By the way, someone please send a dozen of these camera equipped chickens to movie producers, should they insist in using those stupid puke-inducing shaky cameras.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282697",
"author": "Wolf",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T00:25:25",
"content": "lol, lost it at “this version 2.0.. a much bigger chicken”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282701",
"author": "Rachel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T00:31:48",
"content": "@nesChickens have a three axis gyroscope and a two axis accelerometer in each ear. Humans, too. I noticed this phenomenon back when I raised chickens, but I never thought to strap a camera to its head. I wonder how well it would work with a decent quality camera.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282714",
"author": "Allen Yu",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T01:13:01",
"content": "I wonder if the reflex still works if you hypnotize the chicken.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282716",
"author": "cron",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T01:20:23",
"content": "@Rachel: We’re gonna need a bigger chicken.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282718",
"author": "matt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T01:21:38",
"content": "good use of off-the-shell technology",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282726",
"author": "Olivier",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T01:51:31",
"content": "@Hirudinea: there’s also that on some “special” websites…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282741",
"author": "moshguy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T02:25:14",
"content": "The video was interesting but the bloopers made it worth the time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282750",
"author": "me",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T02:31:57",
"content": "I’m using the chicken to measure it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282758",
"author": "Trollicus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T02:44:49",
"content": "They could have used this for the Blair witch project, but they couldn’t afford the chicken.P.S the chicken has now joined the International Cinematographers Guild and must be paid prevailing wage not chicken feed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282919",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T12:11:51",
"content": "@Rachel: Actually the webcam units built into laptop screens are pretty tiny and lightweight and usually give you around 1.3M pixels – enough for an HD movie, albeit fixed focus and lowish sensitivity. It would probably work ok outside.The interface is HiSpeed USB2.0, so you’d need to strap a tiny PC to the chicken’s back to make it work though or find a really big chicken or an ostrich.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282983",
"author": "Drake",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T17:10:25",
"content": "Im Going to get a 5 piece chicken nugget meal to try this now … and to eat.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282999",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T18:03:57",
"content": "@DrakeSorry, pal. I’m pretty sure that they carefully remove the accelerometers and gyros when they do the chicken -> nugget conversion.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283066",
"author": "dude",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T21:05:35",
"content": "was somebody up late watching robot chicken?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283081",
"author": "DrDoug",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T21:44:01",
"content": "what are you doing walking out of a room marked ‘children’ with a rooster in your hands!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283240",
"author": "Frank",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T03:59:40",
"content": "@Charper “I love how at around 1:50 the chicken keeps eyeing the microwave… It’s like he knows.”Ha!Congrats, you win my innernets award for the day :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283437",
"author": "Koro",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T12:22:57",
"content": "@nes,You’re right about laptop built in webcams being lightweight, but at their best they can provide 1280×1024, which is insufficient for HD quality, not mentioning poor optics.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283520",
"author": "colecoman1982",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T16:18:39",
"content": "Eh, it’s a living…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,320.160198
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/10/kindle-terminal-with-secret-key-press-activation/
|
Kindle Terminal With Secret Key-press Activation
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"handhelds hacks"
] |
[
"c++",
"kindle",
"terminal"
] |
[Luigi Rizzo] has been working on some hacks for his 3rd generation Kindle. There is already a Python based terminal emulator called AjaxTerm but he wanted a lightweight standalone so
he reimplemented the program in C
. The 100k binary monitors the keyboard, launching the terminal emulator when it detects a Shift-T sequence. It also uses alternative key mapping to fill in for some of the keys the Kindle’s keyboard is missing.
We haven’t seen a whole lot of Kindle hacking since it was
hacked to run Ubuntu
. Seems like this terminal emulator is a useful and unobtrusive hack to try out on the beloved reader.
| 26
| 25
|
[
{
"comment_id": "282065",
"author": "Modern Life Sucks",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T22:57:56",
"content": "Can I SSH to my home box from it yet though? That’s what I /really/ care about :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282071",
"author": "zigzagjoe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T23:07:07",
"content": "I’m a bit disappointed that no-one has backported the kindle 3 OS to kindle 2. I’m disappointed that amazon has not done it themselves.The hardware (cpu, memory) is identical, granted the kindle 3 has wifi and more flash. Still, it should be no obstacle.It’s not like kindle 1 vs kindle 2 where the cpu was changed, ram upgraded, and a massive increase in flash. Would not be surprised if the new “os” (the java main portion) could even be run directly (without touching kernel/libs/etc).The most important bit is that kindle 3 gets a functional browser – that’s the only real reason I see to upgrade, currently.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282109",
"author": "loans",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T00:50:40",
"content": "The most important bit is that kindle 3 gets a functional browsermostly",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282111",
"author": "cde",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T00:56:44",
"content": "Shift-T? Well shit, there goes proper capitalization of any sentence that begins with THE. Seriously, Shift?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282135",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T01:47:20",
"content": "cde god I grow tired of this crap, if I wanted to see engilish perfection I would be visiting pineconeupyourass.com not hackadaythanks",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282144",
"author": "DC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T02:00:38",
"content": "@osgeldHe refers to the command to enter the terminal on the Kindle, not grammar on this site. Typing Shift+T on the Kindle during normal operations will open the Terminal, an undesired effect.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282145",
"author": "Peter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T02:00:47",
"content": "I have been trying to find out if the live traffic feature of Google Maps works with the Kindle3 browser. Specifically can you tell the difference between slow and nl traffic on the grayscale screen? Can someone try and post?I think this would be a killer feature.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282161",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T02:27:18",
"content": "@osgeldSometimes I agree with you… this time, you’re just an ass. Sorry.I agree, Shift+T is terrible…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282175",
"author": "amishx64",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T02:41:42",
"content": "@osgeldI don’t care if you were wrong, I laughed at your comment just the same. Thanks!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282186",
"author": "cde",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T03:15:30",
"content": "@osgeld, its actuallyhttp://www.PineConeUpYourAss.commind your capitalization.Anyway you dope, as DC said, its a usability thing. Its like making the number 3 on a phone launch a funlights or fart app every time it is pressed. Everytime you go to make a call with the number 3, you get that crap. In this, every time you use Shift+T, a normally encountered combination when writing, it will launch the terminal. A Control or Fn or ALT + T would be better, or lacking that, Shift+T+Some Other Key at the same time, say Shift+T+E, which would be highly unlikely to trigger the terminal in normal use.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282188",
"author": "luigi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T03:26:00",
"content": "the hotkey sequences to activate terminal or other apps are completely programmable (besides, even as it is now you have to release shift before pressing T in order to actiiate the terminal mode).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282231",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T06:08:17",
"content": "1)I may have been wrong, but totally ignoring that some of us live in 2010 where programs like MS orifice does that whole “caps the first word of the sentence” thing for us, sorry for assuming that the mighty kindle did something Microsoft figured out over a decade ago.2)I am highly disapointed that the coal mines of the site didnt notice I misspelled English3)”this time, you’re just an ass.” This time? seriously? where have you been?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "282456",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T15:45:00",
"content": "@All Arguing,everybody stop. please get back on topic.",
"parent_id": "282231",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "282249",
"author": "JustSomeGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T07:16:28",
"content": "@osgeld1) You know what they say about assuming? It makes an ASS out of U and ME.2) I (for one) did, but I’m not (always) a pedantic asshole.3)This reminds me of youAll in all, the way the key combination was described, cde’s argument was entirely valid.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282446",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T15:03:24",
"content": "lol osgeld.just shut up and take it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282465",
"author": "Aged Cheddar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T16:41:08",
"content": "@All – A less than ideal key combo? Agreed! Probably easy to fix as stated by luigi.@osgeld – Is anyone but my wife and workplace still using M$oft products? You are right, all the major word processors have that functionality now. I somehow doubt that the Kindle designers had it in mind though. It started out as an e-book reader not a writing platform.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282510",
"author": "Its_Time",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T18:15:12",
"content": "@KalebAs you have noticed, the open comment system is more hassle that it is worth. There are too many angrie kiddies out there spoiling it for those with working neurons.Just like they ruined it at Instructibles, Youtube, and every other site, they are ruining it here too.You are seeing more of them because many of your regular contributors are going bye bye.Install a system that requires registration and wipe these cyberpukes out of here fast… PLEASE!!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282534",
"author": "munKie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T19:16:01",
"content": "Jesus people. Now I know that I am bring a hypocrite because of this post but shut the hell up. This back and forth bantering about a key combination and then the subsequent fallout of a single comment has to stop on these forums. Focus on what has been accomplished in the post and move on dammit.Congrats on the simple terminal access and making HAD.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282569",
"author": "llort",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T20:43:03",
"content": "@munKie, its a comment thread, not a forum",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282988",
"author": "DC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T17:16:12",
"content": "@Its_Time If this place switches to Discus, I’m out.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283072",
"author": "dude",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T21:28:24",
"content": "HaD should take this as a lesson.1.) implement a “submit grammar correction button”then delete troll comments on site (pun intended)2.) encourage “constructive criticism” such as politely suggesting a combo other than a capital T. (maybe just capslock)3.) warn trolls once when possible then require probationary “politeness confirmation” on troll ip #s before posting.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283073",
"author": "dude",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T21:29:40",
"content": "and maybe a “report rude troll” button",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283232",
"author": "gabriel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T03:36:42",
"content": "I think the keys only take effect on that “launcher” app…Will not try this one because wife said she will kill me if i get near her kindle",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283559",
"author": "Bill Hudson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T17:34:53",
"content": "That is too funny, wanting to hack the wifes Kindle but she’ll kill you. I wonder how many of us are there? lol",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283849",
"author": "@oswald",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T07:16:47",
"content": "What is this all about? I searched for ‘kill’ ‘wife’ and ended up here. Help please!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "567878",
"author": "Rob Wentworth",
"timestamp": "2012-01-26T18:15:42",
"content": "The “Shift+T” everybody is whining about is not a capital T, it is a key sequence. Press and release Shift, THEN press and release T. It is documented. Reading the manual can prevent ignorant whining.The latest version is myts-7 from matan. You can find all this stuff (and more) at the “Developer’s Corner” forum at mobileread.com.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,320.222919
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/10/bluetooth-temperature-module/
|
Bluetooth Temperature Module
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"home hacks",
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"12f675",
"bluetooth",
"DS18B20",
"pic",
"sure electronics",
"temperature"
] |
Wanting to know the outside temperature, [Jamie Maloway] built his own
temperature sensor that can be read with a Bluetooth device
. Let’s take a tour of the hardware above from right to left. There’s a linear voltage regulator with two filtering caps and a terminal block to attach a 9V battery or other power source. Next there’s an 8 MHz crystal and it’s capacitors, followed by a programming header on top and a 1-wire temperature IC, the DS18B20 we’re all familiar with hanging off the bottom. These both connect to the 8-pin PIC 12F675 that drives the system, and transmits using a Bluetooth module from Sure Electronics. Since this is using a serial protocol and transmitting ASCII data, it can be read using an automated script, or simply by using a terminal program.
Now, who’s going to be the first to get rid of the battery and
leech off of the mains through inductance
?
| 11
| 10
|
[
{
"comment_id": "282028",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T21:15:03",
"content": "The idea is great, because it allows for reading on various types of devices. But given the limited range of the bluetooth i see no real advantage to getting the data on a computer/phone to that of having a dedicated receiver showing the temp.I am also very very curious what the expected battery life is. My guess is that it is not that much…@Mike Szczys as the sensor is designed to measure outside temp, i suspect there is very limited power available through inductance coupling…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282031",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T21:17:57",
"content": "LE: it appears that the sensors you mentioned use the network line to communicate via very low power RF but are still powered by batteries.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282034",
"author": "George Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T21:21:10",
"content": "Good timing, I wanted to do some stuff with BlueTooth.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282044",
"author": "Peter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T21:42:59",
"content": "I would have reversed the BT module end-for-end, so the antenna was away from the circuitry on the main PCB. I wonder why he chose to position it like he did?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282051",
"author": "bemis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T22:14:50",
"content": "@bogdanI think the idea is that you may want to log the temperature data–or have some custom alarm action perhaps? But may not want to have to specifically run a communication/power wire to the site being sensed.I can imagine this being useful to measure the interior temperature of a garage, basement, chest freezer, etc … anywhere within 20′ of so of the receiver.In fact, I was going to do something quite similar to monitor a vacant house, but ultimately found that since I was using a webcam to watch for motion at the front door I simply mounted a large-digit LCD thermometer next to the door–there’s no alarm action possible based on temp, but it’s good enough.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1525202",
"author": "Gary Hunter",
"timestamp": "2014-05-28T18:01:35",
"content": "Honeywell makes a thermostat that is wireless and has alerts of high or low temperature and you can control the thermostat via smart phone or pc. It runs about 99 bucks. Works great!",
"parent_id": "282051",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "282082",
"author": "pff",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T23:46:16",
"content": "biggest waste of copper clad board award goes to this guy",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282415",
"author": "jukus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T12:21:10",
"content": "@pff troll elsewhere",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282502",
"author": "st2000",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T17:49:10",
"content": "@JamieWhere do you guys find the specs for these boards? I have a broadcom (BCM 2024) based bluetooth HID keyboard module I want to move to a real (not thumb sized) keyboard. But hesitate because of unknown pins coupled with unknown devices on the keyboard’s PC card.@pffThere are specifications for these bluetooth modules requiring minimal spacing of conductive material around the antenna. But in the end, most say no metal is better than some. I might have rotated the bluetooth module 180 to place the antenna nearer to the edge of a plastic case however.@bogdanLove the idea of simply placing a thermometer in view of the camera! Nothing beats the simplest solution. If the temperature is constant (i.e. you want to be alerted to any change) you might check out zoneminder. Its motion analysing software might pick up the changes in a 7 segment display as motion. I imagine you can even mask off the unit digit and only be sensitive to the 10’s digit if you want less resolution (i.e. by only being sensitive to motion in certain parts of the image). FYI zoneminder is not a commercial product but rather a use it and cough up some money if you find it useful.@Jamie“Since I don’t have access to a hot-air rework station…” Consider the ubiquitous alternative, a hot air gun. I say ubiquitous because types that can melt solder can be found in craft and archiving stores – which just seam to be ubiquitous in their own right.@JamieYou picked Bluetooth SSP. This probably makes this incompatible with Apple iPod devices which (I think) only works with Bluetooth HID for similar purposes (yes, I know, Apple does audio, but that’s yet other types of Bluetooth). It would be interesting to have a portable thermometer and portable logger combination to carry around.@JamieFunny, I don’t see SSP or HID mentioned in the SURE data sheet. How did you know which type of Bluetooth the SURE module would use?@Jamie(Last Question)I am lead to believe the MCU in these Bluetooth chips are programmable. The BMC2042 chip on the module I have boasts an Intel 8051 core. Did you look into programming your temperature code directly into the bluetooth chip and skip over using the PIC?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283074",
"author": "Dante",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T21:30:35",
"content": "Great idea, i want to make one like this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283533",
"author": "pall.e",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T16:22:10",
"content": "I’ve been thinking about making a kitchen computer out of an old laptop that doesn’t have serial. Been trying to think how I could mount it and still get info from across the room. Was looking into wireless usb but this would be cheaper.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.984487
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/10/segfault-balancing-transport-using-a-dozen-op-amps/
|
Segfault: Balancing Transport Using A Dozen Op-amps
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Transportation Hacks"
] |
[
"analog",
"lmc6484",
"op-amp",
"segfault",
"segway"
] |
The Segfault is a balancing transport similar to a Segway, but
it uses analog comparators instead of digital circuitry
. On board you’ll find no less than twelve LMC6484 op amps. They take signals from the gyroscope and the accelerometer, balance and filter them, then drive the motor h-bridges accordingly.
[Charles], the guy behind the Segfault, is also
the one responsible for DeathBlades
. As with that project he does just as well at documenting as he does at fabrication. Take some time to enjoy his posts associated with this two-wheeled-wonder (especially
the build process
) and then watch in the video after the break.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmsUr2JLXLI&w=470]
[via
Make
]
| 15
| 15
|
[
{
"comment_id": "281992",
"author": "Nick McClanahan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T19:11:41",
"content": "That high pitch motor whine would drive me crazy, but it’s a good exercise in discrete design!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282003",
"author": "xiao_haozi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T19:26:31",
"content": "+1 just for the name!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282004",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T19:29:34",
"content": "Giving that is the motor that is producing the high pitch sound due to the working frequency of the controller, can’t he just put a capacitor and resistor to make a simple high-pass filter?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282009",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T19:41:03",
"content": "I was going to say “awesome!”, but i can’t, my head is hurting because of that hellish screeching.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282013",
"author": "chango",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T20:06:39",
"content": "That’s impossible! According to Dean Kamen the Segway needs a pile of DSPs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282018",
"author": "ha3flt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T20:46:58",
"content": "Wow, it’s name is great, analog design vs. segfault vs. Segway… It’s humor. :-))))))))))",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282020",
"author": "ha3flt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T20:47:30",
"content": "“Its name.” Sorry.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282056",
"author": "J",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T22:28:59",
"content": "very cool. Hmm is that a shopping cart in their shop? Full of ???",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282061",
"author": "smudgeface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T22:41:32",
"content": "+1 for E/c^2 * sqrt(-1) * PV/nR",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282091",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T00:12:59",
"content": "Haha, this is great. I’m all for microcontrollers and I’ve never done much discrete stuff like this, but I can appreciate the effort and also the balls it takes to do this old school.Also @MrX, i think the resistor and capacitor would need to be rated to very high currents and so they’d be large and wasteful. Normally you just run these things at a higher frequency and its fine. I don’t yet know a whole lot about the different frequencies, but I know you can go to 20KHz and most people can’t hear it, while staying within the realm of good switching frequencies for these things.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282255",
"author": "Dan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T07:37:13",
"content": "Have to love the 8bitPeoples track playing the the background (Starscream?)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282460",
"author": "andrew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T16:14:53",
"content": "I think it took some ball to stand on that thing the first time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282492",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T17:32:22",
"content": "@Taylor AlexanderOh. I meant low-pass filter – which ends up being just a capacitor in parallel with the motor.You have a point regarding the high-current though. For that filtering frequency, the cap must be in the nF scale where standard caps are small and “weak”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282724",
"author": "VEC7OR",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T01:39:59",
"content": "Best programming language is soldering ;)On the bright side instead of compiling and recompiling, you just adjust a few trimpots.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283655",
"author": "hank hill",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T21:23:07",
"content": "i hate people with blue hair",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,320.339413
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/10/eeg-the-locomotion/
|
EEG The Locomotion
|
Joseph Thibodeau
|
[
"Medical Hacks",
"Transportation Hacks",
"Wearable Hacks"
] |
[
"eeg",
"mobility",
"WheelChair"
] |
The use of brainwaves as control parameters for electronic systems is becoming quite widespread. The types of signals that we have access to are still quite primitive compared to what we might aspire to in our cyberpunk fantasies, but they’re a step in the right direction.
A very tempting aspect of accessing brain signals is that it can be used to circumvent physical limitations. [Jerkey] demonstrates this with his DIY
brain-controlled electric wheelchair
that can move people who wouldn’t otherwise have the capacity to operate joystick controls. The approach is direct, using a laptop to marshall EEG data which is passed to an arduino that simulates joystick operations for the control board of the wheelchair. From experience we know that it can be difficult to control EEGs off-the-bat, and [Jerky]’s warnings at the beginning of the instructable about having a spotter with their finger on the “off” switch should well be followed. Maybe some
automated collision avoidance
would be useful to include.
We’ve covered
voice-operated wheelchairs
before, and we’d like to know how the two types of control would stack up against one another. EEGs are more immediate than speech, but we imagine that they’re harder to control.
It would be interesting albeit somewhat trivial to see an extension of [Jerkey]’s technique as a way to
control an ROV
like
Oberon
, although depending on the faculties of the operator the speech control could be difficult (would that make it
more
convincing as an alien robot diplomat?).
| 8
| 8
|
[
{
"comment_id": "281909",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T14:31:44",
"content": "This article gives me another idea for wheelchair control: A headset with camera attached which points down at the users eyes.When the use looks right, the chair turns right. When looking left it turns left.Forward motion count be controlled by looking down but includes a time out. This would force the user to look up every few hundred milliseconds to make sure they are travelling in the right location. So forward motion is kind of incremental. With experience of operation, the movement would become pretty fluid I guess.I’m sure this kind of eye movement monitoring is already an existing technology. I remember seeing an article where a camera inside a TV screen could monitor what parts of a cartoon attracted kids the most.Damn, wish I could be bothered to put this into practice…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281913",
"author": "Brainguy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T14:53:37",
"content": "@smoker_daveYou should check the ‘eye-writer’ by Zach Lieberman, he has a pretty nifty solution for this using ordinary webcams. Plus he shares everything.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281951",
"author": "Alastair",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T17:05:27",
"content": "*points* Oh, hey. A ‘Hackers’ poster.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281982",
"author": "thatoneguy7",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T18:49:07",
"content": "@smoker take a minute alternating between looking down and straight ahead as close to every few hundred milliseconds as you can estimate. dizzy yet?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281986",
"author": "jeff-o",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T18:59:09",
"content": "The problem with using eye-tracking for movement is that you need to look at objects but not move as well. Say, if you’re crossing the street. Or reading a sign. I guess it could work if you also required some sort of command system (up up down down left left right right blink blink?) to initiate different modes. But that starts to get too complex for the user…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282032",
"author": "George Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T21:18:10",
"content": "Easier than that. You can have LEDs that flash at different rates, that flashing can be picked up in the brain waves. Just time the pulse and decide on what frequency/LED is being looked at, and you have more control (choices).So it’d be easy to implement a simple “keypad” in LED’s, add a LCD screen for menu’s, and you can gain a pretty wide range of control.The only problem is it takes a couple of seconds to sense/decode the frequency. So the system is kinda slow. Not too bad though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282353",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T10:31:24",
"content": "nice idea @George Johnson, this could work.Certainly means there is something specific to “lock on” to, a bit like a ping on a submarine.Just a thought, but i did wonder if an mp3 recorder with a “front end” consisting of an array of lm567 based frequency generators hooked up to the eeg could record activity from many electrodes “on the fly”one idea i had is to use tuning diodes as they can adjust over a relatively wide range with no current change (only voltage) so could be handy for picking up really small signals.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283455",
"author": "PlastBox",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T13:13:57",
"content": "Awesome stuff! Just wondering, has anyone had any experience with the Emotiv Epoc?The software seems to take a reasonable approach, asking users to focos on a certain action (push, pull, rotate cw/ccw, disappear, etc) while collecting data. Then it tries to match patterns in the collected data, so you don’t have to spend hours upon hours training to raise a single alpha-channel or some such.The theory is sound, the demos I’ve seen are good.. I have to know, just how good is it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,319.935319
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/09/lego-machine-predicts-future-eclipses/
|
Lego Machine Predicts Future Eclipses
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"computer hacks",
"Toy Hacks"
] |
[
"antikythera",
"eclipse",
"greek",
"lego",
"mechanical"
] |
Hidden behind the white face plates of this machine are racks of gears that make up a replica of one of the oldest known mechanical computers. This is
a working model of the Antikythera mechanism made from Lego
pieces. In the video, which you absolutely can’t miss after the break, The machine is disassembled into its various components. Each mechanical unit takes advantage of gear ratio combinations to perform numerous levels of mathematical functions in order to display the date and time that future celestial events will occur.
The
background information on the original device
reads like the script for a sequel to
The Goonies
. Believed to date back to 100-150 BC, the
stone
bronze mechanism was recovered from a shipwreck around the turn of the twentieth century. The use of x-ray analysis helped to unlock the functions and confirm the theories of its operation.
Part of what makes this so interesting is the historical connection. But the production quality of the video (which to be fair, seems to be an advertisement) really brings home how complicated this process is. Now it’s time for us to watch the video a few more times, sketching out the gearing to see that this works as they say it does.
Want more of the Antikythera mechanism? Check out the model
built by [Tatyana van Vark]
.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLPVCJjTNgk&w=470]
[via
Reddit
]
| 23
| 23
|
[
{
"comment_id": "281739",
"author": "cde",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T05:09:10",
"content": "They just need the movie voice guy. Good editing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281743",
"author": "Eggman",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T05:22:47",
"content": "excellent video. definitely watch in 720p",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281744",
"author": "alan turing's dog",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T05:27:29",
"content": "Uhm, this was made of brass/bronze and not stone. Celestial navigation tech has been around for a long time, but apart from the odd Indiana Jones movie, few mechanisms are made of rock.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281745",
"author": "ZakTheLegoManiac",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T05:31:02",
"content": "How I love mechanical computers made from legos.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281748",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T05:45:06",
"content": "Wow. Pretty amazing they could do all of that with Legos. I wonder if they used any superglue to keep it together.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281755",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T06:19:22",
"content": "@Alan turing’s dog: Thanks, fixed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281758",
"author": "octel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T06:25:34",
"content": "anyone know how to get that “disassembling” effect in the video? i think it’s slow-motion because they goofed at 1:29",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281775",
"author": "Lushfun",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T07:56:48",
"content": "Pretty soon we will be making robo girlfriends out of microwaves and silly putty.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281824",
"author": "Ryan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T09:38:10",
"content": "The video was very impressive, but the mechanism itself not so much.The entire mechanism needs only a few gears but since lego only has 4 sizes of gears (and the differential drive) they smooshed together a pile of gears to “fake” more complicated gear ratios.There are so many insane lego builds that use parts creatively but this one falls completely flat.Nothing mechanically clever whatsoever. Most of the official technic sets are more impressive IMO.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281825",
"author": "Ryan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T09:40:47",
"content": "And just to back up my pointless rant here is a difference engine built out of lego.Absolutely insane:http://acarol.woz.org/difference_engine.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281826",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T09:49:05",
"content": "Yeah but isn’t there an “app” for that?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281840",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T10:54:25",
"content": "Isn’t there a pointless non sequitur for that?It’s COOL and all, but it’s not as inspiring as some of the projects I’ve seen.That Difference Engine, for instance!8)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281846",
"author": "CumQuaT",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T11:05:58",
"content": "This is the single greatest achievement of mankind…The lego one, not the original…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281853",
"author": "Fail",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T11:15:37",
"content": "– Except a gear ratio 5/19 does not turn into -5/19 when reversed– Spelling– Are you shure this qualifies as replica?– Too “loud”Nice animation though!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281854",
"author": "Fail",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T11:16:12",
"content": "I meant “sure” :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281863",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T11:45:14",
"content": "Ryan: it’s the same guy",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281901",
"author": "Daedalus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T14:09:11",
"content": "@octel Probably with fishing lines or something like that, then animated in stop-motion. The goof at 1:29 is when inbetween frames, they separated the top part from the bottom and just kinda put it in the right position.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281929",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T16:12:50",
"content": "@Octel and @Daedalus: If you’re wondering how the video was filmed go to the Reddit link at the bottom and read the comments from the builder.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281941",
"author": "Daedalus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T16:26:36",
"content": "Ah thanks Mike.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281942",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T16:39:05",
"content": "Amazing i love lego , but read more about Antikythera mechanismhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antikythera_mechanism",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281978",
"author": "nateL",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T18:34:19",
"content": "Quote: “The entire mechanism needs only a few gears but since lego only has 4 sizes of gears (and the differential drive) they smooshed together a pile of gears to “fake” more complicated gear ratios”Isn’t that the true essence of a hack? I find it more impressive, not less, that he was able to create those ratios within said constraints. He didn’t set out to create the mechanism with as few parts as possible, he set out to create it using Lego Tecknics. And it’s impressive.Haters be hatin’.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282075",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T23:20:48",
"content": "The best of Denmark and Greece come togehter for a great hack, but the original was still better.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282687",
"author": "English Zoidberg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T00:08:39",
"content": "armchair haters be hatin’ !",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,320.402265
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/09/skillet-reflow-controller/
|
Skillet Reflow Controller
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"Tool Hacks"
] |
[
"electric",
"reflow",
"skillet",
"surface mount",
"temperature",
"thermistor"
] |
Using an electric skillet to reflow surface mount circuit boards is a popular alternate use for those kitchen appliances. The real trick is monitoring and controlling the temperature. [Mechatronics Guy]
built his own skillet temperature controller
using a thermistor, a solid state relay, and an Arduino.
He was inspired by [Ladyada’s] work which
used a servo to adjust the temperature dial
on the skillet’s power supply. This started by attaching the thermistor to the bottom of the skillet using JB weld. since this area will be heating up he also attached a terminal block for connecting the feed wires as the heat would melt any solder joints. Those wires travel back to a control box housing the Arduino and solid state relay. To gain finer control over the heating element the relay is switched on and off, resulting in low-frequency Pulse Width Modulation, which should help maintain a consistent temperature better than just turning the temperature dial on the cord.
Pair this up with
the vacuum tweezers hack
and you’re on your way to a surface mount assembly line. If you want to see this process in action
check out this post
. It goes from stenciling, to populating, to reflowing in a toaster oven.
[Thanks Rob]
| 21
| 21
|
[
{
"comment_id": "281574",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T23:55:27",
"content": "now i want to buy a thermal camera XD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281576",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T00:05:21",
"content": "@BiOzZ I want to build one. I think it is relatively easy to build a low res one using a thermopile sensor in a scanning mechanism. Problem is that fairly accurate thermopiles aren’t cheap either.Any suggestions?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281578",
"author": "Gav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T00:11:27",
"content": "Hi everybody,Man, now I wish I’d finished the writeup. Basically I had a hard time tuning it so I ended up using manual control to solder the makerbot boards.The problem was that the sensor was located too far away from the heating coils, so there was about a 30sec lag in the control, which made it unstable. This lead to a lot of interesting discussions with control systems engineers about the best way of avoiding oscillation (reducing the feedback rate, using a virtual ‘observer’ to simulate the correct temp and respond off that, mapping the open-loop response and others), but in the end if you’re making your own controller I’d just recommended moving the sensor closer to the coils :)Cheers,Gavin(The Mechatronics Guy)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281582",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T00:21:19",
"content": "Hah, I was just looking at thermal cameras on amazon today, heh.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281621",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T01:11:35",
"content": "But can I fry my bacon in it when I’m done reflowing solder?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281632",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T01:32:32",
"content": "@Hirudinea No kidding, I touched the hot tube of my soldering iron once (I was grabbing it while starring to a PCB) and it was painful enough for me to cover the plastic part with glowing orange so it doesn’t happen again in the future. The burnt bacon toke some months to disappear and even now, after 4 years, I still have a scar in my hand and half of my fingerprint smoothed.TIPS:* Attach a string between the soldering iron and your desk, to prevent falling accidents.* Always stare to the soldering iron when you grab and when you store it.* Work in a non inflammable zone (my electronics desk is covered by a hard layer of marble).* Always use grounded soldering irons, connected to mains switches that are easily accessible.Sorry for being such a safety freak, but starters usually don’t care until something bad happens.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281636",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T01:47:14",
"content": "string is a good idea, but where I store the cold iron to the workspace is just about darn near the same distance tween my workspace and floorI also stare at the soldering iron while moving it( with 2 hands and a stand), but dont zone on itanyway good tips, MrX and if I may add one, get used to tiny burns and heat, it happens flux + solder = bacon grease, holding a wire a bit too close = owie, but the natural reaction is drop everything and freak out, which can make things worse",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281675",
"author": "Bill D. Williams",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T03:16:03",
"content": "@GavSo this hack isn’t done? Are you working more on it? Planning to?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281687",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T03:40:21",
"content": "I was building a reflow oven out of a toaster oven and considered this technique. I ended up using a thermocouple, microcontroller, and an SSR to get the job done.PS Most thermistors are inaccurate at the temps that it takes to reflow solder. Check your datasheets!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281689",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T03:45:39",
"content": "PS This was written almost two years ago IIRC.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281694",
"author": "Gav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T04:07:00",
"content": "@Bill D. WilliamsWell, I did a bunch of measurements and temp responses to various things. it was reasonably stable at certain temps, but the response time wasn’t fast enough to follow the same ISO standard temperature curves for soldering that I’d seen on the web. (they have ramp up rates, soak times and cool down periods)Eventually I ran the soldering with the controller in place, but in open-loop mode. So it’s a digitally controlled heating value that’s more accurate than the onboard themostat. This turned out to be more than adequate for surface mount reflow.The controller is made to be totally generic. It has GPO sockets so you can plug any device in, and the thermistor is replacable. So you can make other devices connect in a jiffy.I’ll probably make a sous-vide system at some point using the same equipment. But for now I’m satisfied with open-loop for SMD.Cheers,Gavin",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281740",
"author": "andrew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T05:15:12",
"content": "It seems like using the bang-bang method, and maybe all of the methods for that matter, might work better if you put the whole oven in some kind of insulated container.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281757",
"author": "crust",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T06:25:02",
"content": "I built a reflow oven that I’ve used a couple of times with success. I used the following parts:Black and Decker Infrawave oven (ebay 60) — open the unit and just bypass the circuit board so that when it is plugged in it powers the heating elements.Stainless steel thermocouple (ebay 5) — basic K type thermocuople in a stainless sleeve with a stiffener so it keeps its shape.Auber Instruments PID Controller (ebay 75?) — Basic PID controller that allows you to program a profile, basically an all in one unit that can control an SSR25A SSR (bgmicro 10) — This SSR has screw terminals so it is easy to attach to heavy gauge wire for the oven. The PID controller can drive it directly, so it is easy to attach.Cheap chassis from Mouser ($10) and it works like a charm. The oven is pretty big and can bake several boards at once. For cooling it down, I usually open the door, even with the ambient air it won’t exceed the profile ramps. I use Syntech LF paste.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281761",
"author": "Gav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T06:29:37",
"content": "Sounds like a good setup, Crust",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281772",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T07:25:36",
"content": "@Sporkdoes it really matter when its posted?its on HAD now … its new for 99% of us no matter if it was 2 days ago or 20 years ago",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281841",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T10:57:36",
"content": "This is stuff I haven’t even considered until recently.After getting some experience with SMD soldering I’m game…I’m game! :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281851",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T11:12:44",
"content": "“Basically I had a hard time tuning it ”Try the Ziegler Nichols method :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281869",
"author": "Gcat122",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T12:05:04",
"content": "Many wire lead thermistor assemblies melt at solder reflow temperatures because they are made with … um, solder. Use a thermocouple. Attach one to your pcb to see what the temperature really is. Still good work. Have fun.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281914",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T14:53:38",
"content": "Thermocouples are expensive, reasonably fragile, and very, very annoying. They need dedicated circuitry and calibration, where a thermistor can be dropped into a simple voltage divider and work fine. If you can find a thermistor that is specd for your temperature, use it instead.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282054",
"author": "emilio",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T22:24:11",
"content": "yawn, another reflow oven post… clearly, the most interesting part about this is the use of a thermal camera.seriously, where are the diy thermal cams? seems like the hacker community hasn’t tried anything beyond just mounting IR thermometers to servos. this is one of those instruments that have hundreds of uses in dozens of industries, but still cost thousands of dollars.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282104",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T00:37:04",
"content": "@emilioMy guess is the core technology for the sensor is patented (most likely the lenses too).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,320.460591
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/09/atx-psu-turned-into-an-adjustable-voltage-bench-supply/
|
ATX Psu Turned Into An Adjustable Voltage Bench Supply
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"computer hacks",
"Tool Hacks"
] |
[
"atx",
"bench supply",
"mic29152",
"power supply",
"psu"
] |
Here’s a fancy way to
convert an ATX powers supply into a bench supply
. [TG] didn’t just cut off the motherboard connector and add banana plugs, but improved the functionality. Right off the bat you’ll notice that he’s added a control panel. There is an Ammeter and Ohmmeter to let you know what the unit is putting out. He added an MIC29152WT adjustable voltage regulator so that he’s not limited to the fixed voltages of the psu. As a final touch he added an external voltage probe which can be used with the flick of a switch. It’s no replacement for a proper bench supply, especially since it doesn’t have adjustable current limiting, but it’s
a nice improvement upon previous psu hacks
.
| 37
| 32
|
[
{
"comment_id": "281538",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T22:34:45",
"content": "I’ve been using ATX power supplies to make adjustable power supplies for a while now. But I have never been able to make one look that good! Kudos! That and I only had an LCD readout for voltage, not amperage. All in all, this is a very well done hack. Once he gets the side grills on, I’ll have nothing to complain about.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "2988655",
"author": "dave99999",
"timestamp": "2016-04-13T10:49:06",
"content": "You don’t seem to understand the design. The sides are open because that’s where the PSU exhausts. While it could have perforated side panels, that restricts airflow to some extent.",
"parent_id": "281538",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3009744",
"author": "Joe",
"timestamp": "2016-05-03T20:00:37",
"content": "Are you the designer.?",
"parent_id": "2988655",
"depth": 3,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "281542",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T22:43:43",
"content": "Excuse the double post. When I’ve made adjustable PSUs from ATX supplies, I do it by putting a pot in the feedback path of the SMPS. Not by putting a LDO voltage regulator between the output rail and the binding posts. This also lets me get more than 12V out. But make sure the other rails have upgraded components if you’re running it at more than 12V.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281557",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T23:29:54",
"content": "@Fallen, could you post more details on your variance with tweeking the feedback loop of the switcher.I suppose that works to some extent, even though very limited (define limited :) ) as there is a very tight relationship between the input voltage to the switcher, output voltage, current and the serial inductor.I suppose that you have PSU with ferite traffo and optocoupler in the feedback loop, but I suppose similar restrictions exist there tooRegards!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281558",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T23:31:18",
"content": "verynice!(in Borat voice)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281569",
"author": "andres",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T23:47:35",
"content": "Ohmmeter?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281570",
"author": "mjrippe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T23:48:47",
"content": "Ohmmeter ≠ Voltmeter",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281573",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T23:54:17",
"content": "adjustable PSU power is nothing new but there is an easier way to do it … simply remove all the caps and inductors from the low voltage side than find the feedback voltage divider and by changing the value of the divider you change the voltage … you can get up to 47 volts out of it (well my 500W can do that) … you need to put a higher voltage filter cap and higher watt inductor to keep the noise low",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281577",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T00:09:06",
"content": "Great hack but all who are going to attempt this, please be aware that you can only source 1.5A off the variable output. This is a limitation of the regulator chosen",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281585",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T00:29:17",
"content": "This should be a kit.Maybe some instructions on how to tweak the supply and an ATX connector, make it bolt-on to existing holes.Plug in and win! (you can use that)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281601",
"author": "????",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T00:54:24",
"content": "@ FallenI’ve also tried making my own and it’s usually amateur. This one looks great.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281602",
"author": "Robert_A",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T00:55:00",
"content": "I’d be interested in a kit. something like a fancier (metered) version of this:http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9774",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281618",
"author": "Robert_A",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T00:58:32",
"content": "here is another similar board or kit for sale.http://www.instructables.com/id/ATX-Power-Supply-the-elegant-way-to-adapt-to-ben/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281622",
"author": "George Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T01:14:39",
"content": "Ditto the “Ohmmeter” comment, Ohmmeter?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281630",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T01:28:06",
"content": "Ohmmeter, why hast thou forsaken us?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "843620",
"author": "tangomilonga",
"timestamp": "2012-10-29T17:41:22",
"content": "Ohm meter is a volt meter with internal voltage source",
"parent_id": "281630",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "281686",
"author": "Ken",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T03:39:07",
"content": "By cascading the output of the ATX PSU into an adjustable linear regulator, he is pretty much eliminating superimposed voltage ripple from the SMPS section. I would be damned if there was 1mV voltage ripple left.Just messing with the feedback circuitry is a good way to throw the power supply out of regulation.Not to say that that technique doesn’t have it’s place, but if someone is after something akin to a lab supply, the linear cascade route is going to be better.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281688",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T03:44:49",
"content": "Agreed Ken. For my application I didn’t really need a rock steady voltage with minimal current. I was using the PSU to power a car audio amp that I was repairing. Hence I wanted 14.4V.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281725",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T04:46:12",
"content": "If you really want more current out of it, just add some power transistors… I’ve got a stack of TO-3 packaged ones on one of my home built units, I’ve never tested the max current on it, but it regularly delivers ~6-7A with no problems. It’s powered by a 48V switcher from a dell tape autoloader. Works like a charm, and the autoloader supply is about the size of your average CD drive, just a little bit longer than one. Has 2 internal fans, it’s been working for more than a year without trouble!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281769",
"author": "glagnar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T07:15:20",
"content": "OK, so here are some links on how to actually hack the PSU circuit to provide a different voltage:http://www.chirio.com/switching_power_supply_atx.htmhttp://www.qrp4u.de/docs/de/powersupply/index.htmhttp://www.webx.dk/oz2cpu/radios/psu-pc1.htmhttp://www.webx.dk/oz2cpu/radios/psu-pc400.htm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281842",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T10:59:51",
"content": "Power supplies and power supply hacks are ALWAYS awesome.I forgot to mention that this project is indeed beautifully carried out.Well done!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281856",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T11:17:17",
"content": "I love the flying voltage probe lead. Awesome!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281879",
"author": "iPodder",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T12:33:13",
"content": "People have been doing this for ages, but this is really amazing; the case is very professional looking and doesn’t take up a ton of space like most other psu power supplies.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281898",
"author": "Peter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T14:04:11",
"content": "I modded a PC supply to create a high current 13.8V supply for a mobile radio. If you’re careful, you can get almost the rated power out of them.The hard part is finding a schematic, because it’s a lot easier than spending your time tracing the PCB etches and drawing your own. I discovered, though, that they are all basically the same design, and once you identify the regulator chip, you can find sample applications schematics on the chip manufacturer’s website.The key for getting high current output is to use the 5V or 3.3V output circuit. Sometimes there are two of these, and you can combine the transformer secondary windings in series to boost the available output voltage.The other tip is that usually, only the main logic voltage (3.3 or 5) is regulated (a sample of the output voltage is fed back to the regulator chip). The other voltages are designed to track the logic voltage and aren’t regulated themselves. So, if you’re looking for precise voltage control, use the main outputs.These don’t make great adjustable supplies, as the output voltages are designed to be fixed, with varying loads. However, with a schematic and a will to tinker, anything is possible. One thing’s for sure: you’ll come away from the experience knowing a lot more about how switching supplies are designed!#include [warning about messing with line-powered stuff]",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281910",
"author": "Peter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T14:33:33",
"content": "Well, it turns out that getting a schematic is as easy as Googling “ATX power supply schematic”:http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/af/Tl494_ATX_Power_Supply_Schematic.gifThis may not be the *exact* schematic of the supply you have, but I guarantee it’s probably close.Just a quick look at this image will tell you a lot about how to mod the supply. First, the “TL494” chip is used in almost all of them, and the TI website has loads of helpful information. Pin 1 of this chip is obviously being used as the regulator feedback point in this design, so varying the voltage on this pin, or the voltage divider attached to it will change the output voltage. Note that the +5 and +12 outputs are both fed back to the regulator. The bottom left corner has a standby 5V supply for the soft power switch, and there should be an overcurrent detect circuit in there somewhere…One piece of advice I got when doing my design, was to strip out all the filter and diode circuits connected to the PSU DC outputs, and replace it with only the parts you need for your desired output voltage. If you are lucky, they didn’t try to save money by varying the size of the wire used in the secondary windings and you have four high current windings available to tap off of as you need to.Again, notice from the filter capacitor voltage ratings that there’s upwards of 500VDC of rectified AC line voltage on the primary of that output transformer, and treat it with the respect it deserves.As these supplies can often be had for the price of asking for them, at your local “old PC” recycling facility, they’re a very cheap way to experiment with switching supplies. You’ll save reverse engineering time if you can manage to get several of the same design. If the worst happens, and your project goes up in a shower of sparks and smoke, just set it aside and pick up another supply.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281984",
"author": "Ragnar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T18:52:17",
"content": "@Peter: your warning about threating it with the respect it deserves is very welcome. I’d say comparing this to something everybody would understand is: if you touch a capacitor loaded at 500V this would be like a punch from Mike Tyson at is best right into your face.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281985",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T18:53:05",
"content": "@Peteri have only seen one TL494 PWM circuit used in a PSU out of atleast 30 i have ripped apart i dont know where you got that the idea that its used in almost all of themonly cheep ass ones or old ass ones are actually used with that as most of them have a different transformer for each voltage rail requiring separate regulationmost common ones use a quad comparator to regulate the voltage (either built in to the PWM or used sepretly)by modifying the divider’s in voltage at 12V you can make it go above 12V (as high as 48v) and by modifying the reference voltage you can make it go down (i dont suggest doing both on the same circuit) all the way to 0v",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282050",
"author": "Peter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T21:59:33",
"content": "@BiOzZ: well, given my usual method of acquisition, I’m pretty much guaranteed to get old-ass ones! Another schematic I found on the web used an SG6105.Whatever the PWM regulator chip used, the manufacturer’s website is the best place to start when looking for a schematic. Once you understand how the regulator chip is supposed to work, you can start to figure out how those principles are implemented on the circuit board in front of you.In any case, these power supplies are very hackable, and well worth the effort, both for the resulting supply and for the knowledge you’ll gain.Just watch out for the primary voltage. Being plugged into a GFI outlet while testing and keeping one hand behind your back when the supply is on, are both good ideas.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282057",
"author": "Concerned EE",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T22:29:51",
"content": "I hope this article isn’t implying that Hackaday doesn’t know the difference between an ohmmeter and a voltmeter. :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282319",
"author": "That Guy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T09:20:29",
"content": "No… it’s implying that Mike Szczys doesn’t know the difference between an ohmmeter and a voltmeter. Or that he made a simple mistake and that hackaday doesn’t proof-read their posts. :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282432",
"author": "tgtomm",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T13:15:18",
"content": "Thanks for all the great comments people.Thanks a lot to all the people who discussed tweeking the actual psu circuit, I didn’t even consider doing that. I’m only getting started and haven’t done anything like this before so didn’t want to go too overboard.I am considering adding a higher current regulator so that the variable output can give a bit more. I’ve ordered one for my parts bin so might get around to doing that if i need it.I’m already getting ideas on how to do things differently. I’d probably start by getting the psu to give a higher voltage output then regulate it down for my needs. Anyway, i’ll save that for another project.thanks everyone#cough# ohmeter #cough cough# voltmeter ;-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2406843",
"author": "Eric Armer",
"timestamp": "2015-02-03T12:28:23",
"content": "We appreciate all the insights. Learning is fun. Thank you for your insights of the power supply. Many different comparators are used. As you stated, if we understand the circuit it is easy to apply the fundamental concepts of the switching supply to trouble shoot or modify almost any switching power supply. Thank you for your insights. It was very helpful for my discovery of switching power supplies. My students are using the pc supply as a bench power supply.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2838744",
"author": "JacktheRipper88",
"timestamp": "2015-12-15T16:50:00",
"content": "I’m thinking of building one of these for the shop I work in. It would be handy as hell for testing iphones. Any chance there is a full instructional guide on building this particular one anywhere with a full parts list? I’m gonna keep searching online, just throwing this question out there",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "2988658",
"author": "dave99999",
"timestamp": "2016-04-13T10:54:47",
"content": "That makes no sense. A phone merely needs a 5V regulated supply, not a variable high current ATX PSU like that.",
"parent_id": "2838744",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3019033",
"author": "mobileHman",
"timestamp": "2016-05-13T00:37:35",
"content": "Yes the number of functional blocks crammed into a cell phone is amazing!",
"parent_id": "2988658",
"depth": 3,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "2997757",
"author": "liaoxw",
"timestamp": "2016-04-21T22:39:11",
"content": "cant read your article?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,320.527474
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/09/quick-cheap-and-simple-vacuum-tweezers/
|
Quick, Cheap, And Simple Vacuum Tweezers
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Tool Hacks"
] |
[
"aquarium",
"fish",
"pump",
"vacuum tweezers"
] |
[Ken] found that using traditional tweezers is a good way to lose tiny surface mount parts and so
set out to make his own vacuum tweezers
(PDF). He already had a small aquarium pump that he used as a bubbler for etching circuit boards. After opening up the case he found it was possible to connect tubing to the input of the pump to use as the source for the vacuum. The business end of the device is a syringe which he already had for applying oil in tight spaces. A file took off the sharp tip, and a small hole lined with a bit of soft tubing serves as a valve. Put the needle tip in place and plug the hole with your finger to pick it up. Works like a charm and will go well with our next feature, building your own reflow skillet.
We like [Ken’s] work. We just looked in on
his copper clad enclosures
yesterday.
| 17
| 17
|
[
{
"comment_id": "281481",
"author": "Chris Muncy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T21:14:33",
"content": "Simplisticly perfect and cheap!Great job!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281494",
"author": "DanAdamKOF",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T21:35:25",
"content": "Oh wow, this is clever. Aquarium pumps are pretty useful in DIY/hacking, especially in making tools. I’ve seen them before in a modification to a desoldering iron to make them automatic or something like that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281498",
"author": "Steven S.",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T21:44:24",
"content": "Ken, That is a great design! Unfortunately I was a Manufacturing Engineer back in the leaded component days(I left just as SMDs were being introduced) I now repair Mac computers and have had a need for this kind of thing for a while. I’m going to build one soon. Thanks!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281499",
"author": "thegoddamnedbatman",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T21:45:24",
"content": "I think you’d want some kind of filter, so that you don’t damage the piston/diaphragm of the pump by sucking in nasty bits. Not sure how sensitive they are, but I know that the nicer pumps can get to be pretty expensive.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281500",
"author": "Marshall",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T21:45:56",
"content": "My god, this is exactly what I need",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281546",
"author": "kaye",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T22:55:03",
"content": "Could jam some of a cotton ball into the barrel for some filtration.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281625",
"author": "George Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T01:18:36",
"content": "But why!?I really don’t get it. I’ve seen ads in Nuts & Volts for vacuum “pick and place” devices, but still don’t see the point.I’ve built so many SMD boards at work, using nothing but tweezers and a standard Weller soldering iron/tip.I’ve tried things like this, and to me, it really just adds more work and makes it harder to build the things.SMD isn’t hard guys…. (and I’m 50, and can’t see so well any more too, so…. I DO need magnification, but come on!)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281849",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T11:07:35",
"content": "LOL I was kind of thinking the same thing.I’m doing QC on industrial gear (drives, PLCs, etc) and there are a couple of tricks I was shown when introduced to SMD for performing quality work on the fly.I was told that when I learned SMD I wouldn’t want to do through-hole anymore and you know, I think they might be right.Seems like the biggest hurdle is understanding the properties of molten solder, but I oversimplify and digress…@George Johnson(At 44 I also need magnification, so don’t sweat it, pops. ;) )",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281903",
"author": "ino",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T14:18:56",
"content": "I’m with george on this one",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281911",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T14:38:11",
"content": "I don’t see the need for the electric pump?You can but a cheap “vacuum pick up tool” from China for about £1 which is basically a mechanical vacuum. Pull the plunger and it will lock onto the component.I was given one at work once, but never found a use for it. As George says, it’s not needed.I don’t even use tweezers for SMT usually. Place as close as possible by hand and move the component into place using the length of solder that’s in the opposite hand to my iron.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281924",
"author": "Brian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T15:58:24",
"content": "@george: For me, bad hands. 30 years of banging away at a keyboard almost daily, carpal tunnel, and a bit of a tremor. Tweezers work but this is much easier, you don’t have to worry about getting a grip on two sides.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281990",
"author": "Nick McClanahan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T19:07:55",
"content": "If you’re having problems with tweezers, you’re probably using the wrong ones – you need to get the most pointy tweezers you can find. Using drug store tweezers is painful.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282011",
"author": "qwerty",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T19:56:38",
"content": "Check also negative tweezers.http://ak.buy.com/PI/0/500/213586667.jpgSometimes tremors are due to both fingers pushing the tweezers to keep them closed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283539",
"author": "J. Swift",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T16:39:16",
"content": "I came here to post that SMD isn’t really that hard, and that I prefer it to through-hole mounting, and that you should get yourselves a pair of the pointiest tweezers on Digikey… only to find that no less then 3 other people had posted the same thing!Give me SMD components, some liquid flux, a nice pointy soldering iron, and some pointy tweezers, and I’m in board-stuffing heaven :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283575",
"author": "draeath",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T18:31:22",
"content": "SMD and SMT are not the same thing…One’s a lot smaller…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "284304",
"author": "Gene",
"timestamp": "2010-12-15T01:09:31",
"content": "@draethOne’s Surface Mount Device and the other Surface Moount Technology. The terms are largely interchangeable. And neither has any specific size associated with it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "945858",
"author": "László Monda (@mondalaci)",
"timestamp": "2013-01-23T21:25:57",
"content": "Also readhttp://garage-shoppe.com/wordpress/?p=109andhttp://garage-shoppe.com/wordpress/?p=164to see an another build.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,320.57619
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/09/designing-an-rf-transceiver/
|
Designing An RF Transceiver
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Radio Hacks"
] |
[
"microchip",
"mrf49xa",
"RF",
"transceiver"
] |
[William Dillon] is finishing up his degree. His final project as a student was to design an RF transceiver. He decided to work with the Microchip MRF49XA, which runs around $3 but will cost you $20 if you want it in a ready-to-use module. He didn’t find a lot of info on the Internet about communicating with these chips so
he’s shared his design, code, and board files
. If you’re ever wanted to delve into RF design this is a good primer. [William] talks about building around the example circuit from the datasheet but also includes a discussion of the calculations he made in working with the 434 MHz band, and an AVR-based library for using his module.
| 15
| 15
|
[
{
"comment_id": "281468",
"author": "Jared",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T20:43:55",
"content": "The MRF49XA is used in the Radica Puppy Tweets toy. You get two of these MRF49XA modules, one integrated into a USB dongle. I haven’t yet got to hacking these myself, so I have no idea how easy it is to hack these, but it can’t be rocket science. Go to the FCC OET license site (https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/GenericSearch.cfm) and look up FCC IDs “PIY T7004D1” and “PIY T7004T1”. In the details, there’s even full circuit diagrams!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281470",
"author": "Brian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T20:48:30",
"content": "Huzza! I am making a wireless engine monitor and designed in this part for the wireless…this will help a lot!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281475",
"author": "hpux735",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T20:59:18",
"content": "@JaredGreat find. There are several neat things about this. The first is that the design company is obviously using Altium schematic capture. The second is that they either use, or thought they may want to use, the direct interface to the frequency-shift-keying (FSK) pins. These are FSK and DCLK. This is an option if you want to use a higher bit rate, or if you want more control over packet synchronization. If you wanted to integrate this into your own project, you’d need to customize the schematic on my design for the 915 Mhz balun, and some changes to the code. Also, you’d need to figure out what bitrate and packet structure they’re using.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281479",
"author": "Pete",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T21:11:54",
"content": "$6.67 for the RFM12Bhttp://shop.moderndevice.com/products/rfm12b-radioThis company even sells the RF transceiver embedded with microcontroller with code: $22.50http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/jeenode-kitJust bought some myself, so can’t vouch for performance, yet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281537",
"author": "hpux735",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T22:29:13",
"content": "@PeteThere’s a lot that can be done with quantity and the magic of outsourced labor. I added up the parts alone in single (or 10 for passives) unit quantities from Digikey and it came out to $5.73 w/o the PCB. Keep in mind that they also don’t use a package for the IC, opting instead for the cheaper epoxy blob.It’s very interesting to me, however, that the datasheet doesn’t give really any information about how to use it. When you find the programming guide, it’s obvious that this is likely made from the same IC. If that is the case, the library should be useful for those as well. There is some precedent for this, SILabs has a chip that is identical:http://www.silabs.com/products/wireless/EZRadio/Pages/Si442021.aspx",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281544",
"author": "Pete",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T22:46:35",
"content": "@ hpux735Here’s the programming guide via sparkfun:http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Wireless/General/RF12B_code.pdfHere’s a link for the RFM12B uC code, geared arduino:http://jeelabs.net/projects/cafe/wiki/RF12",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281571",
"author": "hpux735",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T23:51:59",
"content": "Assuming that they are compatible (and I think at this point it’s a safe assumption) then this library may also work:http://www.das-labor.org/wiki/RFM12_library/en..from the sparkfun website",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281627",
"author": "polymorph",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T01:26:38",
"content": "hmm, this is going to be useful for my augmented reality paintball helmet.something about the cables on the left reminds me of the rainbow flag…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281628",
"author": "George Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T01:27:01",
"content": "Oh yeah, this one is going to take some time to absorb….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281796",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T08:24:54",
"content": "i always love seeing RF circuits :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281850",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T11:10:53",
"content": "RF rules.-And I love seeing terms from my active ham days.FSK indeed! :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "317982",
"author": "chamnan",
"timestamp": "2011-01-29T15:31:00",
"content": "I can only say one word it the best.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "371422",
"author": "Dharmendra singh",
"timestamp": "2011-04-01T05:50:56",
"content": "radio frequency hack",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "587198",
"author": "John",
"timestamp": "2012-02-22T22:03:18",
"content": "Hello,I am attempting to develop code for two RF transceivers to transmit data through a PIC16F877A micrcontroller. I am a first time user of both and not very familiar with programming in general. Can anyone offer some advice/assistance?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2529974",
"author": "Nick5",
"timestamp": "2015-04-16T20:03:18",
"content": "Is it possible to make a tranciever device so I can take over power someone’s satellite TV signal, like overpower their signal going to their dish and transmit mine to their TV, so I wouldn’t have to hardwire anything?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,322.65198
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/09/part-2-help-me-reverse-engineer-an-led-light-bulb/
|
Part 2: Help Me Reverse Engineer An LED Light Bulb
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"HackIt"
] |
[
"attiny13",
"led",
"light bulb",
"reverse engineer"
] |
Almost a month ago I started trying to reverse engineer an inexpensive LED color changing light bulb. With your help I’ve mapped out the circuit, and taken control of the bulb. But there’s still a few mysteries in this little blinker. Join me after the break to see what I’ve done so far, peruse the schematic and source code, and to help solve the two remaining mysteries.
What I’ve Accomplished
First off, thank you to all the commenters on the original post. I figured a lot out about this circuit because of that help. Notably, that the code I had dumped wasn’t any use because the lock bits had been set. There was also a lot of constructive input and conjecture about this when I shared it at the
Sector67
meeting on Tuesday (a hackerspace here in Madison).
I’m happy to say that I was able to program the ATtiny13 chip while in place. I damaged the first bulb I cracked open by drilling through an inductor. The second time I was more careful, and soldered ribbon cable onto each of the microcontroller pins.
I can program this chip without removing it from the board. This is accomplished by using High Voltage Serial Programming (HVSP) while AC power is not connected. I reset the fuses to factory settings to enable the reset pin but I have been unable to program this using ISP. But that’s not really a problem. The diffuser was taped in place and I added an IDC connector for easy interface with the bulb.
The firmware I’ve written is up on GitHub
. It has a few features; the default operation is to fade between red and green every 20 minutes as a porch light during this Christmas season. I’ll discuss the circuit below, but there are two unused pins on the device and I’ve added two test modes that are entered by jumping the pin to ground on the IDC connector. One of the test modes makes the red/green fader happen every 2 seconds. The other scrolls through primary and secondary colors with a 1/2 second delay.
So what we have is a microcontroller that drives two RGB LED modules in series. This chip has two available pins and 1K of programming space. So it should be relatively simple to make this into an I2C addressable module. Ideally this would be done without using AC power, sparking one of the questions I ask at the bottom of the post.
The Circuitry
I traced out the circuit board and recreated the schematic using an Ohmmeter and continuity Tester. There are two separate schematics, one for the LED control circuitry and another for the power supply.
As expected, the power supply uses the example circuit from
the LNK304 datasheet
. The 12V output connects to the two VCC points on the controller schematic but the ground or return path is a bit peculiar. Look at the upper leg on the PSU schematic which includes R2, R3, R10, and C7. I’ve labeled this as ‘GND (5V rail)’ because this connects to the ground side of the ATtiny13. The ‘GND (12V rail)’ connects to the low side of the LEDs but that is separated from the microcontroller ground path. Obviously the Zener diode is clamping power input for the microcontroller (which needs 5V), but I have no idea how the filter circuit leading back to the AC hot is working.
Take a look at the component list and then see if you can help solve two questions.
R1 – inline with center conductor of light socket; ~0.5 Ohm. Might be a fuse
R2 – 1004
R3 – 1004
R4 – 3001
R5 – 1302
R6 – 1201
R7 – 1Bx
R8 – 270
R9 – 270
R10 – 1003
D1 – 1N4007
D2 – 1N4007
D3 – R106 TF
D4 – Looks like a zener
D5 – RGB LED
D6 – RGB LED
D7 – JF S1J
IC1 – PNP Transistor
IC2 – PNP Transistor
IC3 – PNP Transistor
IC4 – LNK304GN AC/DC switching converter
IC5 – ATtiny13
C1 – smd without label
C2 – 50V 22 uF electrolytic
C3 – 400V 4.7 uF electrolytic
C4 – 400V 4.7 uF electrolytic
C5 – 25V 100 uF electrolytic
C6 – smd without label
C7- smd without label
L1 – 102J CEC
L2 – 102J CEC
Help solve these two questions:
1. How does the GND connection for the ATtiny13 work? A complete answer will explain what the path that includes R2, R3, R10, and C7 actually does, and how it works in conjunction with the switching converter.
2. What is the easiest way to power the control circuit using DC?
Feel free to leave a comment with your thoughts. But if you’re so inclined, I’d love to read a more verbose description so post your thoughts on your own host and leave a link in the comments.
Follow Me
szczys
| 43
| 42
|
[
{
"comment_id": "280711",
"author": "godi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T16:13:33",
"content": "Can’t help you with any answers unfortunately, but just wanted to complement you with a great job done so far.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280730",
"author": "DC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T16:20:52",
"content": "I’d say to cut the AC/DC converter out of the equation and just simply bypass it [ie, attach proper DC voltage to the DC rails].",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280761",
"author": "RoelAdriaans",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T16:34:20",
"content": "2. Use an optocoupler to separate the datalines from the ac voltage.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280762",
"author": "Mohonri",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T16:34:26",
"content": "Aha! I’ve figured it out. The trick with this circuit is that it’s the reverse of what we usually expect. Usually, we think +12V, +5V, and GND. In this case, we have (in effect) GND, -5v, and -12v. What you need to do is rename your voltages as follows:12V output = Vcc —> GND or common5V GND —-> -5v12v GND —-> -12vThe zener diode on the ATTiny13 is acting as a negative shunt regulator, and R2 and R3 (1mOhm each) drop the voltage from 120VAC to 5V. R10 and C7 are there to smooth the current passing through D4.The outputs on the ATTiny drive the PNP transistors, sinking current into the ATTiny (and then out through the Tiny’s GND pin). The transistors in turn drive the LEDs.The fact that you’re dealing with a negative-voltage regulator makes it a bit trickier to drive it with DC–you’ll have to tap into the -12V and -5V lines on a hacked PC PSU, if it’s got them (many modern PSUs don’t).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280765",
"author": "Apexys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T16:35:29",
"content": "1.It seems like a capacitive net power supply.The Cap C7 works as a resistor for AC.The Cap C6 buffers the voltage.2.You could use 5V and 12V, but anything says me this answer won’t help you.I think the most easy way to do it would be to feed a small 12V into the circuit and get 5V over a small preresistor to the Anode of D4.D4 is a important part in the capacitive power supply, it prevents the voltage getting higher than 5V.apexys",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280783",
"author": "Everett",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T16:40:10",
"content": "To answer question one:R2 and R3 provide resistance heading into and RC circuit (R10 and C7) The purpose of this is to keep the path to ground from being a short circuit. Remember that current follows the path of least resistance. If you removed the resistors and RC circuit current would prefer that path over the path into the circuit. An explanation of RC circuits:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuitI believe this circuit is filtering the AC signal filtering before going to ground.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280794",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T16:46:08",
"content": "I have worked with these Linkswitch IC’s before.It is a crude method for having floating isolated GND’s for the +5,+12V. D4 is a Zener probably a 5.1Volt.Also keep in mind that D1,D2 only provide for half-wave(full is better)rectification and hence the main reason for C7 it acts as a filter by removing some of the AC component(noise). R1 limits the inrush current when power is applied. R2, R3, R10 limit the current to the ATtiny. They used threee series resistors to do this rather than 1 large resistor, this is common practice in many designs. I assume that R1 is on the Neutral and D2 is on the line side.To power the control circuit with just DC, remove D1,D2 then jumper the solder pads. You can remove R1 then move R3,D1 junction to your 12V GND rail then apply about 140-400 Vdc accross C3.Hope this helpsMike",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280819",
"author": "AC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T16:50:51",
"content": "@DCdon’t forget the pnp transistors in this equation.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280868",
"author": "tgtomm",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T17:06:25",
"content": "from what i can tell R1 is connected to live (hot). Vcc is 12v and what you have labelled as “GND (5v)” will actually be 7v (5v lower than 12v).C7 and R10 are acting as a low pass filter. normally this would produce approx 0v from A/C but the addition of the two high value resistors R2 and R3 means that only very small currents will flow though the filter and it is therefore possible for the zener diode across the attiny to clamp the filter output to 7v.Think about this. If the filter output goes below 7v, current flows from the 12v line into C7, raising the voltage. The voltage shouldn’t want to go above 7v because a filtered a/c signal gives 0v (provided you have a good quality, unbiased supply).This trick only works for the tiny current that the attiny consumes. If it sank a significant current then this circuit would be less well regulated.To power this direct from DC, simply cut out the a/c supply circuit and provide 12v to where you labelled 12v/Vcc, supply 7v to where you labelled “GND (5v)” and 0v to GND. You may need to remove the zener diode too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280882",
"author": "Brian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T17:13:33",
"content": "D4 Is only creating the 5 v potential for the processor on the negative AC cycle. Does the processor shut down on the positive half? To me it looks like D4 is forward biased on the positive portion of the AC cycle and C6 would discharge. During the negative portion 5V GND is at 7V with reference to the 12V output. Is there a diode missing from this circuit?To run this from DC it looks like you would remove R2 and tie the R10 side to your 12V ground then feed your 12V supply across C5.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280969",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T17:44:54",
"content": "@Mohonri: You’re right I think. It’s -5V and -12V with a common ground. That explains the configuration of the switching transistors.For the -5V supply, R2, R3, R10, and C7 simply apply a phase shift to the rectified mains frequency which is then shunt regulated by the zener. Other then the first rectified diode it’s entirely separate from the 12V supply effected by the LNK304.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281025",
"author": "tgtomm",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T17:58:17",
"content": "take a look at the data sheet for the power supply IC:http://www.powerint.com/sites/default/files/product-docs/lnk302_304-306.pdfThe chip isn’t designed to supply -12v or -5v. The circuit here is almost identical to the typical circuit given in the data sheet. Its providing +12v with the neutral A/C connection as 0v",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281102",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T18:32:06",
"content": "None the less it is being used that way in this case.@Szczys to power the circuit from 12V DC, connect negative to R6, positive to pin 8 if IC5 and I would try adding a roughly 360 ohm resistor between R6 and pin 4 of IC5.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281170",
"author": "xilo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T18:55:56",
"content": "What the crap?! How did I not know you’re in Madison? I feel like I know a celebrity..I also kinda feel like a cad, as I hardly do any hacking at all. I’m just not inspired – the sort of hacker that is happy to help others but too lazy for my own ideas. I must try to check out Sector67 (1/4, it looks like) even though I’m actually living in Eau Claire now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281205",
"author": "bb-tronics",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T19:05:05",
"content": "there is a similar circuit in Elektor Special Projects Magazine LEDs 1it costs £9.90 in the UKI bought it yesterday after buying a LED light bulb that I received and installed today – these things are going to take off as they are only 4 watts but give good lumens, I am going to try it in the dark when I get home soon",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281277",
"author": "leadacid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T19:26:29",
"content": "@xiloYou’re not alone in Wisconsin. I’m up in the Wautoma area, not far from Stevens Point. I too have been meaning to get to the hackerspace in Madison, just don’t have the time. :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281302",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T19:31:00",
"content": "S67 FTW. Super glad to see Madison has a useful hackerspace and I can’t wait to check it out.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281304",
"author": "tantris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T19:31:19",
"content": "you should be able to convert a system with common ground, -5v, -12v into a +5v,+12v system, if you can separate the ground in the -5v part of the system from the ground in the -12v part of the system. (ground of course being vcc in your picture)i didn’t have a look at the circuit board, but your led-control.png looks like you could remove vcc from pin 8. then you should be able to feed 5v to pin8, +12v to what you labeled vcc in the led part of this, and connect the two gnd (-5v,-12v) to a common ground.oh, and cut of the traces to the psu part, just in case.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281316",
"author": "RobBob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T19:35:11",
"content": "project thoughts: how hard would it be to make these rf contolled? I Have been watching and think I need to play with these too. my 2 things I’d be looking to do is bump up the brightness buy having 1 control more RGB Leds and then also make a couple addressable over rf so I could remotely control the color in different areas and sync them.But I have no clue how complicated it would be. :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281345",
"author": "jerm1386",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T19:46:23",
"content": "I support Brian’s recommendationFor those having trouble thinking that the LNK304 can supply negative voltage, think of it instead as if the ATTiny’s VCC is at 12V and the ‘ground’ is actually at +7V relative to ground from the LNK304. Brian’s change in where R10 is hooked is simply to allow current to flow to the LNK304’s ground so that the zener may continue regulating voltage to the ATTiny (no need for 12V and 7V power, just 12V)to be honest I don’t know why the design isn’t made this way to begin with.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281465",
"author": "Andy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T20:26:50",
"content": "@tgtomm – Not correct, look at the list of topologies, it does support some topologies that produce negative voltages.From the looks of it, this is the “High side buck-boost, direct feedback” topology.Of course, when dealing with a nonisolated supply such as this, in some ways it is dangerous to even use the term “ground” as there really isn’t any proper ground in this circuit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281493",
"author": "Brian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T21:35:22",
"content": "Can we get a scope capture across C6 (micro’s input capacitor)? :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281513",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T21:59:37",
"content": "@jerm1386: because I suspect the microcontroller might want about 20mA or so given the switch configuration so the total would take it over the limit of that switcher IC.Incidentally, the switch configuration is pretty clever. The transistors don’t go into saturation which means they can be switched off fast despite being very ordinary – great for PWMing the LEDs without heating up and the emitter resistor helps do current limiting duties for the LED chain at the same time. So two resistors saved per LED.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281619",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T01:00:40",
"content": "xilo xilo xilo xilo xilo xilo xiloI live in lake hallie.xilo xilo xilo xilo xilo xilo xilo",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281642",
"author": "Adam Outler",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T02:04:35",
"content": "@Mike Szczys,Let me attempt to analyze what I see here…R1- Generally for a pluck-n-chuck component a fuse is not used. However, this may be a power handling resistor. it’s not good practice to allow a circuit direct interaction with it’s power supply, so R1 likely just serves that purpose or it filters high frequencies. Please post a pic of R1.R2-3 drop current for the RC bandpass for the 5V ground rail This keeps high freqs out of the bulb and allows for more steady power.D1 and D2 act as a 1/2 wav rectifier for the circuit.C3, L1, and C4 act as a power filter to provide clean input to the LNK304GN chip.The LNK304 chip appears to be a wide range (85V-265V) provides power limiting, surge protection, short protection, and filtering.I found this circuit in the LNK304 datasheethttp://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/DrivingTibNaked/Screenshot-13.pngIt looks like they pretty much copied the entire power supply out of the book.As for the led control circuit…D4 limits voltage, C6 purifies voltage. IC5 functions as a signal initiator for the ICs.I take it that IC1,2,and 3 are likely MOSFETS which supply power to D5 and D6.It looks to me that D4 and C6 are a part of the power supply circuit.I would take a measurement at IC5 pin 8 to determine what power it is running. It looks like it is 12V in and likely ground for the ATTiny13 is riding around 7V which would allow for a total of 5V differenceD4 could be used to regulate voltage to IC5. It (in a poorly designed circuit)So, in order to run this setup, you would apply5V to pin 8 ATTiny12V to R7, R8 and R9Ground to R6 and ATTiny13 pin 4.however, in order to run this setup you’d have to replace the ICs with NPN and have the ATTiny output ground.So, for a easier method of changing it, you could always apply 12V to everything and then use a power regulator on the ground of the ATTiny to bring it up to 7V..Or even simpler, apply 12V to Attiny, The R789’s and apply ground to the R6 and ATTiny, but use a potentiometer to resist ground on the ATTiny.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281759",
"author": "Aussietech",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T06:26:20",
"content": "Mike is on the money,It’s a classic capacitive dropper (aka “Wattless dropper”). R2 and R3 are to prevent an initial current surge when voltage is applied. There are normally two of them to get the required volts withstand for mains application. The actual “dropper” is the capacitor C7, and R10 is a safety resistor to discharge it so users don’t get a bite from the exposed plug. I built some LED nightlights like this in old CFL cases.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281915",
"author": "Adam Outler",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T15:11:06",
"content": "Except mikes method requires 80vdc and changing several components.My method would allow for 12vdc with only a couple of wires and a potentiometer, or a voltage regulator or change the two transistors",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281945",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T16:48:49",
"content": "I think both [Mike] and [Adam Outler] have compelling and complete explainations.@Adam Outler: How can I tell for sure if IC1, IC2, and IC3 are Mosfets? Here’s the best picture I can get of those components (click to enlarge):Also, when you suggest a potentiometer on the ground side of the ATtiny13, how would that work? Like using a voltage divider?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6230402",
"author": "kenny",
"timestamp": "2020-03-23T00:29:08",
"content": "BCR402W, marking W6s, pnp with internal resistor. package SOT343.",
"parent_id": "281945",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "281952",
"author": "Sebastien",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T17:06:02",
"content": "I think they used R2/R3/R10/C7 to avoid the price ofa 5v regulator, passive are cheaper.IC5 ground is effectively at +7V .",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281954",
"author": "Sebastien",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T17:23:42",
"content": "To use with DC, remove all on ‘led-psu’, exept C5,add resistor between GND(5V) and GND(12V), somethingaround 330ohm 0.5w and increase C6 value.Put 12v power at C5 and check voltage on C6 duringoperation, adjust (decrease) the new resistor if needed, be carefull with D4/resistor max power.If there is no resistor between µC and IC1/2/3, theymust be mosfet.SeB.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281956",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T17:25:37",
"content": "Sebastien said: If there is no resistor between µC and IC1/2/3, theyGood point.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282017",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T20:37:24",
"content": "Nah, they’re definitely PNP’s. If they were FETs, the S-D voltage would drop when they switched on putting them into their linear region causing them to waste energy.The base current is limited by the emitter resistor (saves a resistor). But also the base current is limited by the emitter coming close to the -5V rail preventing them from saturating so they can switch off quick (saving another resistor).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282029",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T21:16:10",
"content": "Scratch that last comment. I just saw the picture in the comments above. Four pins and labelled as ICs… I think they might be Siemens/Infinion BCR116 pre-biased NPN transistors (a single transistor with a series base resistor and a smaller B-E resistor to prevent saturation).http://bit.ly/ePhN0POut of interest, what’s the voltage across the LED pairs when they are lit up?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282093",
"author": "zerocool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T00:17:12",
"content": "use a voltmeter to determine the input voltage and contact points and solder on wires and hook it up to a dc source with the wires and this is coming from a 12 year old im starting my career young lmao",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282151",
"author": "Adam Outler",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T02:10:47",
"content": "nes is correct. They are NPN transistors, not mosfets. I made an assumption based on the fact that they are driving an efficient platform with a microprocessor. Generally people keep the signal load to a minimum and use the transistors to do the work. In this case they are using the tiny to turn on the transistors. Personally, I would have driven MOSFETS as they are more designed to be a driver. There’s alot of ways to do it though. I was just thinking what I would use in that situation.This looks the easiesthttp://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/DrivingTibNaked/led-controlnew.pngI didn’t think about it earlier, but you may want to add a small resistor to that 7v circuit to prevent over current while the capacitor charges.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283000",
"author": "SeB",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T18:07:56",
"content": "Nes,Adam, they may be p-mosfet with Vgs>-5v .I doubt they are NPN, PNP is ok for me.They are driven ON with 0 logic level on µC pin,ie with Vgs=-5v or Vbe=-5v (with base resistor inthe package).SeB.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283241",
"author": "Brett_cgb",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T03:59:53",
"content": "A couple thoughts.Resistor markings: the last digit is the number of zero’s appended to the preceeding digits. In the case of R2 and R3, “1004” translates to 1000000 Ohms (or 1M Ohm). “3001” translates to 3k Ohm.The schematics don’t show what C7/R10 connect to off-page, but I’m guessing this is a signal input circuit, not a power supply.Even in a short circuit condition, 2M Ohm series resistance allows only 85uA current at 170V. Controller clamp diodes on input pins would limit the voltage at the pin to Vcc+0.7V and GND-0.7V. You should be able to see this with an oscilloscope (careful with grounding!) at the R10/C7/ATTiny13 node. R1 is likely a “fuse” in case a transient on the power damages (shorts) silicon somewhere.This is a way to allow the controller to know when the AC line has crossed 0V. This might be helpful with dimming or timing.Since the controller doesn’t have a crystal or resonator attached, it must rely on an internal RC clock source. The speed of such clocks can change greatly with temperature and Vdd. It wouldn’t take much of a leap to use the AC line frequency to recalibrate the internal clock speed every second or ten.D4 is likely a Zener diode about 5.1V. You should be able to measure it with a multimeter.The Gnd (12V Rail) is also the ground for the 5V rail. The 5V rail is likely developed using D4 5.1V Zener?) and a series current limiting resistor (not shown) tied to the 12V (-12V?) supply.Most of this holds even if the “VCC” supply of the ATTINY13 circuit is really GND and “GND(12V) is really -12V.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283249",
"author": "Brett_cgb",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T04:27:16",
"content": "The emitter resistors R7, R9, and R8 allow you to regulate the collector current depending on the base voltage. The base current will be tiny (Ib=Ic/beta, beta is usually about 20 to 100).If PB4 is high/open: Vb<0.7V, Ve=0V, Ib=0, Ic=0If PB4 is low(-5V): Vb=-5.0V, Ve=-4.3V, R8=27 Ohm (\"270\"), Ie=160mA, (and assuming beta=100) Ib=0.16mA.The only real unknown is beta, but even that's not critical.The LED current is about 160mA, independent of where GND (-12V?) really is, or how many LEDs are in the string.By the way, 2 blue LEDs develop about 8V when lit, so \"VCC\" and \"GND\" have to be at least 8V apart. That tends to fit with Ve=4.3V. So, is the 12V supply really 12V, or is it a little higher (closer to 13V)? Adjusting the R4/R5 divider would change that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285699",
"author": "dj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-17T23:22:09",
"content": "Do the reverse ( negative switching ). i.ethe +ve volts will be act like gnd means+5v = GND and -Ve switches .",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "296773",
"author": "dc exterminators",
"timestamp": "2011-01-05T13:15:30",
"content": "regulate the collector current and uses negative switching",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "813407",
"author": "Dr. DFTBA",
"timestamp": "2012-10-10T20:41:01",
"content": "Can you tell me what bulb this is? Store and part number. I’d like to buy one for the ATTiny without needing to order online :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "992988",
"author": "Cameron",
"timestamp": "2013-04-13T03:02:43",
"content": "I know this is an old post but I just thought it was really funny that you’re in Madison. I’m a student here. So many Wisconsinites.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,322.801093
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/09/ice-tube-clock-meet-the-chronodot/
|
Ice Tube Clock, Meet The ChronoDot
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"clock hacks",
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"ATmega168",
"chronodot",
"DS3231",
"ice tube clock"
] |
[Alex] ramped up the precision of his timepiece by
adding a ChronoDot to the Ice Tube Clock
. These two items are among our favorites; the
Ice Tube Clock
for its old-style multi-digit display, and the
ChronoDot
for combining a DS3231, battery, and components into a nice small package.
There is a schematic link at the very bottom left of [Alex’s] writeup. He mentions that he depopulated the clock crystal and its capacitor pair from the board and patched into the clock input on the AVR. A 100K pull-up resistor is included in the wiring as called for in the DS3231 datasheet. Although not specifically referenced, we assume that [Alex] reprogrammed the ATmega168 clock select fuses to use an external clock signal.
Now he can sit back knowing that the clock will be within 10 seconds per year accuracy.
| 5
| 5
|
[
{
"comment_id": "280212",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T14:25:12",
"content": "I went for harder solution by building xtalOven",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280216",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T14:26:40",
"content": "Why not measure the decay of a cesium atom?Man you hackers are getting lazy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280370",
"author": "svofski",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T14:39:23",
"content": "Last time I checked, the DS3231/DS3234 has +/-2 minutes per year accuracy. Where did you get the 10 seconds figure?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280532",
"author": "Alex McAlpine",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T15:12:12",
"content": "The IceCube clock already uses an external clock. there was no reprogramming required. Yes, sorry, less than a minute a year",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281852",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T11:13:24",
"content": "A timely hack!(ducks)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,322.316626
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/08/home-brew-coffee-machine/
|
Home Brew Coffee Machine
|
Joseph Thibodeau
|
[
"home hacks",
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"automatic",
"coffee",
"espresso",
"rube goldberg"
] |
There are already a lot of different ways to brew up a decent coffee at home, from the humble saucepan to the elegant vacuum flask. In an office environment the choice of coffee-making technique can have a major impact on workplace harmony—how can people be expected to work happily when the kitchen is filthy with grounds and the coffee is always stale? “Someone have mercy,” [Christian Finger] lamented, “and boil a pot of fresh.”
In the end he took extreme measures, building a machine that grinds whole beans, measures out a dose, brews a cup and self-cleans. He used all sorts of odds and ends to put the thing together, detailed in his
long and hilarious build log
(
english translation
—and check out the dude’s
sweet ride
). Refer to
his shockwave animation
for a summary of the intended operation.
The end result is an extremely impressive Goldbergian contraption—
download
the video from the build log. It is pretty noisy and probably energy- and water-hungry, but that wouldn’t stop us from using it every day, if given the chance. Hell, this here could form a major part of your next
breakfast machine
.
We’re sure that there is further potential in this, because to get the really
freshest
possible cup of coffee you’d want to roast the coffee beans just before grinding them. Then you’d be well on your way towards something else entirely: a
delicious
breakfast machine.
| 23
| 22
|
[
{
"comment_id": "276889",
"author": "teko",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T01:01:50",
"content": "http://www.finger.de-web.cc/kaffee2/kaffee2.mpg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "277612",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T04:08:46",
"content": "I thought I have seen this one long time ago.. (not sure if it was from HaD)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "277845",
"author": "aqua_scummm",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T05:05:48",
"content": "I see 80/20! Awesome stuff :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "278300",
"author": "Red_Herring",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T06:32:56",
"content": "NoNoNoNo! You most definitely would not want to roast the beans just before brewing. They need time to out-gas and to get a bit oily. Much better after 5 or 6 days. But don’t wait too long.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "278476",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T07:05:04",
"content": "Home brew? Home BREW? is this some kind of joke HaD?Pretty cool project though, kinda like the breakfast machine from a few months back.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "278875",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T08:54:30",
"content": "Home roast yes, I seem to remember it in fully sensor loaded, microprocessed, countertop size setup. Either HaD or some science site I don’t know where, about 2 years ago.I saw on discovery or something, a pre-war newsreel of a chap being woke up by a complete automated b’fast machine. It had a above range chicken to lay on time! Holeywood does Rube Goldberg.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279243",
"author": "Jim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T10:05:50",
"content": "That was no newsreel, it was comedian Snub Pollard in his 1923 comedyIt’s a Gift, a film packed with lunatic inventions including a novel magnetic powered car.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279333",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T10:27:06",
"content": "You would never want to brew with freshly (on the same day) roasted beans. Leave them for at least 3 days!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279335",
"author": "Frogz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T10:27:41",
"content": "stupid mpgs…who hasnt heard of youtube besides these guys???anything with coffee is a good thingbut i am waiting on the download while typing this so i cant even properly comment!!oh, theres the videoi want 1…must be hell to clean and if anything breaks.. gotta make the part from pop bottles, duct tape and paper clips EACH TIME, if only this wasnt so stupidly complicated!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280175",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T14:07:09",
"content": "Wow, rube-Goldberg coffee maker. Wallace and Gromit would be proud!Why does he not use a train steam whistle to announce the coffee is done?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280215",
"author": "sankaku",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T14:26:16",
"content": "@HackerK:Im pretty sure I’ve seen this on hackaday long time ago.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280239",
"author": "sankaku",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T14:31:09",
"content": "BINGO!http://hackaday.com/2007/07/18/automatic-french-press-coffee-brewer/This is a repost!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "280533",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T15:12:21",
"content": "@sankaku,damn… I guess we miss some occasionally. Good catch!",
"parent_id": "280239",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "280425",
"author": "jim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T14:47:55",
"content": "The reason he uses .mpgs is because the site predates Youtube by years.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280669",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T15:58:28",
"content": "Needs a milk frother",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281463",
"author": "Ha'KotH",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T20:19:34",
"content": "This reminds me of Narbonic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281519",
"author": "Ivan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T22:17:32",
"content": "Heyyyyy this is a repost, in any case… is good to remember such a good hack, sometimes I wonder where does this ppl get so much free time from!?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281535",
"author": "sankaku",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T22:25:03",
"content": "@Caleb KraftMy spider sense did the work for me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281633",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T01:39:54",
"content": "Freshly roasted coffee beans are at their flavor peak between 24h and 72h after roasting.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281855",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T11:16:31",
"content": "I don’t know anything about roasting coffee beans but I have a clean cup with a splash of half and half in it just ready to go when that next pot is ready, ‘kay?Good hack.Coffee!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281858",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T11:18:28",
"content": "It’s also somewhat Brobdingnagian, but don’t tell Sheldon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282269",
"author": "Dude",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T08:28:49",
"content": "Haha the text is even more hilarious and clever than the machine itself! The automatic translation (I checked) sadly does not even remotely live up to the wordplay and absurdity.I was laughing my ass off, all these little remarks, pure gold!Love it!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282686",
"author": "Dougefresh",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T00:06:35",
"content": "After roasting I belive the bean has to rest for a certain amount of time before grinding, but you could probly set up some sort of perpetual cycle for that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,322.492789
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/08/cassette-case-cameraphone-tripod/
|
Cassette Case Cameraphone Tripod
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Cellphone Hacks"
] |
[
"cassette",
"melt",
"phone",
"tripod"
] |
We see a lot of comments on shaky video asking why that person didn’t use a tripod. [Aatif Sumar] wants to use one when taking pictures and video with his phone but the threaded mounting hole you’d find in most cameras doesn’t come as a feature on smart phones. That didn’t deter him,
he used an old cassette case for this phone tripod
. The build started with a cheap flexible camera tripod. [Aatif] used a soldering iron to melt a hole in a plastic cassette case. We’re apprehensive about relying on the plastic’s ability to hold threads so we’re recommend epoxy to reinforce the joint. A bit more melting with the iron and he had a cradle on legs with a hole for the camera lens. It’s nothing fancy, but it also cost him next-to-nothing.
| 19
| 19
|
[
{
"comment_id": "276325",
"author": "VaBeachKevin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:13:42",
"content": "What’s this ‘cassette case’ you speak of?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276337",
"author": "Concino",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:17:26",
"content": "Do people really need instructions on how to melt plastic with soldering iron?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276394",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:29:47",
"content": "I dunno why people use soldering irons as generic “melt shit” tools. I hate picking gooey bits of plastic off my iron when I accidentally melt some insulation. Instead of melting, there’s this innovative new tool called a “drill”, which can cut circular holes of multiple sizes in all sorts of material…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276462",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:41:21",
"content": "Cheap and chearful and it works, what more could you want.@macw You use the cheapest soldering iron you can find to melt plastic, not one you’ed actually solder with.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276464",
"author": "Keith Baxter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:41:30",
"content": "Nice repurposing off a cassette. @VaBeachKevin. It’s an audio cassette case. The perfect piece of plastic but increasingly rare. Maybe a DVD case would work too with some cutting",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276487",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:48:19",
"content": "@macw what do I have to sacrifice to be bestowed one of these ‘drill’ devices? They sound magical.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276494",
"author": "The Cheap Vegetable Gardener",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:49:59",
"content": "Simple and cheap I like it. I would agree that heating up a nail while holding with some vise grips or applying a piece of duct tape and carefully drilling a hole would probably would be a better than gunking up the soldering iron though sure one of those moments of needing to make a hole and seeing the already hot soldering iron on the desk…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276501",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:51:50",
"content": "there must be some sort of shake when you hit the shutter right?it is not secured enough in my eyes to prevent shake",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276538",
"author": "j_jwalrus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:59:33",
"content": "clean the marmite out for under your nails. barf.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276763",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T00:24:52",
"content": "I 99.9% agree with macw, however anyone who has ever owned a cassette (or CD) knows how brittle those cases can be. Drilling a hole would likely result in a big crack, either while drilling or later during use.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276930",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T01:09:16",
"content": "Nothing is as weak and breakable as the old cassette case, and any strength it has it gets from being folded around a cassette, and it’s obviously only available if your family has some old stuff in the attic.So this is stupid, it’s hard to think of anything that’s not more appropriate, want an example? An empty mouthwash bottle, that’s also a fair size and is much stronger, and you can melt it too and it will look silly also. Want another? A 20 cent plastic drinkingglass from the dollar store where you buy 6 for a buck, cut off one side and put the screw in the bottom.As I said, most anything is better.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "277106",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T02:01:28",
"content": "it uses the plastic protective case that the cassette comes in. now i understand.what i would like to see is someone building an MP3 player INTO an audio cassette casing, where the sound outputs to the read heads just like the 3.5mm jack to cassette adapter, except no external wires and maybe even the ability to generate its power from the play/fastforward gear motion",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "277166",
"author": "DarkAxi0m",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T02:16:39",
"content": "@jeditalianthey do exists, (thanks largely to china prob.)often they have a SD card slot but ‘work’ the same way as a normal cassette.works well in old cars where you are trying to keep them in an original statehttp://cgi.ebay.com.au/Car-MP3-Player-Tape-Cassette-Adapter-SD-MMC-Reader-/110539069269http://www.chinavasion.com/product_info.php/pName/cassette-mp3-player-stand-alone-or-car-cassette-player/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279194",
"author": "Manny",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T09:51:31",
"content": "Using a dremel would have made the job just as quick, yet alot cleaner and nicer, just my 2 cents..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279217",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T09:57:54",
"content": "Fragile as candy glass for sure. If packed in a case still good to use for video or timed shots.I use a Weller gun. I modulate the trigger to do even surface mount touch up’s, as well as melt without charring, plastic build ups and mends. Wipe with cotton or linen while hot, it’s ready to solder. Fan in background.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279493",
"author": "SlurmMcKenzie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T11:08:44",
"content": "I think it’s brilliant.Simple and very usefull.Sometimes i wished i had one for my phone.One time i ended up with a freaky constuction made out of a “helping hand” and a lot of junk at all sides for stability.I do have exactly that tripod that [Aatif] used but never figuered out a way to mount it to my phone.There must be a cassette case somewhere around here too…..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280758",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T16:32:45",
"content": "@echodelta Good description that: candy glass",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281586",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T00:33:43",
"content": "Oh man I should send in the one I found that uses Radio Shack price tag holders to make a very nice cell phone/small device holder for watching videos!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283859",
"author": "bwmetz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-14T07:49:46",
"content": "For v2.0 he should simply hot glue a 1/4-20 nylon nut to the bottom, or even a metal one. It would be much sturdier than drilling or melting. The nylon nuts are generally wider and thicker than the metal nuts, so better suited to this.Nylon nuts are also good for protecting the threads on your monopod or tripod screw during transport.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,322.70563
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/08/copper-clad-enclosures/
|
Copper-clad Enclosures
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Misc Hacks",
"Radio Hacks"
] |
[
"case",
"chassis",
"copper clad",
"enclosure"
] |
Building a great looking box for your projects can be a challenge. [Ken] boils down his process of
building enclosures out of copper clad
(PDF) circuit board material into an illustrated guide in case you want to try this for yourself. Why would you want to use PC board? The fiberglass substrate makes for a strong and lightweight material. Also, [Ken] is a ham radio operator and the copper coating acts as an electrical shield for delicate components inside.
As you can see above he uses solder to tack the pieces together. There’s some important considerations that go along with this method. First, he cuts the pieces just a bit oversized and then sands them flat and square before assembly. Next, he uses some 20 gauge wire as a shim between a ninety-degree joint and a right angle jig. This shim compensates for the shrinking that occurs as the solder cools, making sure the joint gets pulled to a right angle. He even solders nuts in place so that screws can be used to attach the case cover to the chassis.
Yesterday we saw
toner transfer used to make labels on an ABS case
. If you make your enclosure out of copper clad, using toner transfer for panel labels will be a snap!
| 29
| 28
|
[
{
"comment_id": "275817",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T21:07:18",
"content": "I was thinking of making the case of my amplifier this way. Now i know the result is great!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276054",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:05:18",
"content": "Looks nice and I bet it’s electrically pretty quiet but it seems a lot of effort to replicate a pressed steel or ally case which doesn’t cost a lot to buy new. If you needed more than one of an odd shape box it might even pay to buy a press brake and a sheet of tinplate. The seams can be soldered continuously then so there’s no need for any gusseting, and self tappers can be used instead of brass nuts.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276112",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:22:24",
"content": "would be good for frequency or very low voltage electronics but not to cost-use efferent … would be interesting if they actually etched it and used all SMD parts",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276137",
"author": "tantris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:29:49",
"content": "hmm, i thought about aluminum sheeting before, but that would need an internal frame.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276202",
"author": "George Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:42:20",
"content": "Check out this PCB enclosure, it’s a LAPTOP!Nice project too.But really, I can see if this if you just can’t get enclosures anywhere. But it’s a good bit of work. And there’s so many choices in enclosures now. You don’t have to use Bud Boxes any more.PacTec makes GREAT enclosures.He did a nice job there, but really…. it’s so much easier to buy one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276234",
"author": "Ryan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:51:40",
"content": "Enclosures are so expensive.I’ve had moderate luck with thin acrylic and some nichrome wire for bends.One day if I build a laser cutter things will be easier.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276236",
"author": "MrBox",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:52:05",
"content": "Wow, that thing is ugly and it can’t be very cost effective. Why not just use acrylic or wood?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276238",
"author": "Pat Hartl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:52:15",
"content": "It’s a cool idea, but I think copper clad is a bit above my budget to use for a case. Also, it looks cool now, but it’s not going to look so good corroded.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276343",
"author": "Sam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:19:11",
"content": "“copper coating acts as an electrical shield for delicate components inside”…Delicate components inside?Ever heard of EMI? That’s where you were supposed to mention EMI. Not “delicate components”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276499",
"author": "TheOtherOne",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:50:51",
"content": "After cleaning the surface thoroughly, you can apply several layers of shellac to the exposed copper to retard corroding. One nice thing apparent is that if you need case markings for dials, buttons, etc. the toner transfer method and etching would do fine. Alternatively, one could decorate the enclosures using this method.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276510",
"author": "D_",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:53:07",
"content": "A good tutorial on the process. I never seen a radio handbook dedicate 19 pages to this. A thank you to Ken – wa4mnt for making this available. from reading old radio handbooks, the handbooks would give plenty of detail om making chassis from sheet metal, but back in their day sheet metal is what was available.Here it shouldn’t be expensive to have a local machine shop to mill some square stock in hopes when the solder cools it draws the joint into square. Perhaps a case of beer to drink after the work day. That may include the stock, and a beer or two for yourself.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276777",
"author": "DarwinSurvivor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T00:29:08",
"content": "Hmm, if you used surface-mount components, you could potentially turn your enclosure INTO the circuit!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276805",
"author": "Urza",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T00:40:31",
"content": "I just buy sheets of aluminum at Lowes and hammer them into the approximate shape I need. Throw on some JB-Weld if I need to fasten anything. This stuff is gettin way too fancy. ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "277729",
"author": "jtaylor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T04:42:04",
"content": "Great idea. Mayhaps a bit expensive and “way to fancy”, but thats not always a bad thing. Could it be done cheaper/better…depends on your outlook i guess. Have to agree with the idea of custom etching and using SMD components on the inside to make a true one piece design.Definitely a one of a kind idea.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "278178",
"author": "Alex",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T06:02:30",
"content": "This type of enclosure is very common in the world of ham radio. The case is typically used as ground, with a dead-bug style circuit inside.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "278722",
"author": "24601",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T08:08:29",
"content": "I might have taken a look at this project if it weren’t pdf. I despise having to download and handle pdf’s.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279016",
"author": "lens42",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T09:07:33",
"content": "Very nice tutorial. I’ve seen hundreds of boxes made this way (though not as carefully as this). This technique compares favorably to many other quick box ideas and can be VERY fast if you are not worried about perfect looks. This beats aluminum in convenience because you can’t solder to aluminum. In many cases, I’ve also build the enclosed circuit right on the inside copper clad of the bottom case panel. Having a shear helps a lot though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279341",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T10:29:18",
"content": "Great guide! I’ve built several cases using this technique. It’s nice to be able to build exactly what you want, when you want it.It doesn’t have to be ugly. I guess some people have never heard of paint or clear-coat.It doesn’t have to be expensive. You can often get cheap packs of PCBs from surplus vendors.And it’s not really even that time consuming, depending on how fast you can cut the PCBs. Thin phenolic boards can be cut easily with a guillotine-style paper cutter, and are still strong enough for many cases. Especially if you lay down a continuous solder fillet instead of tack soldering, which is fast and easy with a 200W iron.The gusseting may not be needed either. And you don’t need brass nuts; cheap zinc plated hardware solders just fine if you use a little flux from the hardware store.@24601: If you’re too lazy to open a pdf, you’re certainly not going to be building any enclosures; so what are you doing here?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279514",
"author": "Bill D. Williams",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T11:13:12",
"content": "I might have taken a look at this project if it weren’t on the web. I despise having to click on a link.Oh, wait.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279549",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T11:22:34",
"content": "PDF > InstructablesStop moaning!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279611",
"author": "Philip",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T11:36:29",
"content": "Google docs link:http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:z7Jk2SRkSLMJ:qrpbuilder.com/downloads/pcb_chassis_a.pdf+http://www.qrpbuilder.com/downloads/pcb_chassis_a.pdf&hl=en&gl=uk&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESgrGbsJ3VZ4sS17dNPujPXi_zSSvGBaBK0q8cAjXaDBy5jsJjMo-4rDLCm0jfhblt5RHXpg3X6eorUHqoHIa3pPRLIlB4IodvqE1gTGyywIizTJ5PRC0FyINeMu25PH6m1_F8yU&sig=AHIEtbSvNuYR4yh1NjIfyZbu9YirRdp-xg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280614",
"author": "hawkeye18",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T15:38:25",
"content": "Tacking? Come on man, this isn’t welding, use a full seam! Looks better that way, and is an easy fun way to show off your soldering prowess by soldering a clean line.Otherwise, this looks fantastic, and good idea on the shimming wire.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281133",
"author": "Peter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T18:42:27",
"content": "It’s quite easy and holds up well. A few tips after having built several:– copper will tarnish fast. If you want it to stay looking nice, clear-coat it as soon as you finish building it.– sanding epoxy-glass will release loads of small glass fibers into the air. Arrange dust collection, wear disposable clothing and use a respirator or dust mask.– you will want to avoid running your finger along the cut edge of the epoxy-glass material. Those little fibers take a couple of weeks to work their way out of your skin.– The biggest soldering iron tip you can find , and plenty of watts behind it, will make your job much easier. You want to hit those spots with plenty of heat for a short time, lest the epoxy break down and star getting runny.– don’t count on solder as a structural element. Those braces and gussets will help your enclosure last longer.– if you’re going for shielding, remember that the inside and outside copper are electrically isolated unless you do something to join them. Copper shielding tape will work well for this, wrap it around the exposed edge before soldering.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281177",
"author": "Doc Oct",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T18:57:47",
"content": "@chris got any links for the cheap PCBs that you mention? I wouldn’t mind getting some stock here.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281626",
"author": "George Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T01:24:19",
"content": "I’ll add this too. WOOD is perfectly acceptale for a project case. But if you’re going to do it, please make it look decent. Sand it, stain it, etc… some projects look very nice using just wood.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "6167812",
"author": "Tushar",
"timestamp": "2019-07-27T18:54:18",
"content": "The idea of using copper as enclosure is to shield circuits (esp. RF) inside from EMI etc. Copper is a much better material for shield as compared to aluminium etc. because of it’s high conductivity. It is not used to make cases look pretty. Though I agree, if it can be fine tuned, it would look even better.",
"parent_id": "281626",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "282811",
"author": "Defex",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T05:03:01",
"content": "You can make a nice lamp with this method and single sided boards etched, you can even use part of the boards to control the circuit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283105",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-12T23:09:51",
"content": "@Doc Oct: My favorites for electronic surplus are All Electronics, Electronic Goldmine, and BG Micro. Since it’s surplus, they don’t always carry the same items, so it pays to check in periodically for good deals. I picked up a huge pack of assorted PCBs from Goldmine years ago and still have plenty left. I think it was $20 or less.Of course there’s Ebay too. Remember you can often use PCB material that wouldn’t be optimal for actual circuits, which can save you some money. I recently bought a pack of PCBs with black substrate there. If you etch a pattern or image on it, polish the remaining copper, and then clean and clear-coat, the effect is quite nice. I’ve done some small art projects with it already, and plan to do a Hellraiser-style cube soon. It would also make some very interesting enclosures or faceplates.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "6167810",
"author": "Tushar",
"timestamp": "2019-07-27T18:51:25",
"content": "That’s a very good attempt. The idea of using copper as enclosure is to shield circuits (esp. RF) inside from EMI etc. Copper is a much better material for shield as compared to aluminium etc. because of it’s high conductivity. It is not used to make cases look pretty. Btw. do you have any data as to how much RF attenuation (@ what frequency) you could attain due to this enclosure ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,322.274633
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/08/the-twelve-days-of-self-replicating/
|
The Twelve Days Of… Self-replicating
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"cnc hacks"
] |
[
"christmas",
"makerbot",
"mendel",
"prusa",
"reprap"
] |
Okay, it’s more like the 23 days but who’s counting? [Kliment] is giving the gift of self-replication this holiday season by uploading
one new printable part a day
. If you follow along and print each one you’ll have a
Prusa Mendel
by Christmas (this started on 12/2 so you’ll need to catch up). The Prusa is a variation on
the Mendel
that uses bushings wherever possible, reducing the need for bearings down to just two.
So yeah, you need to have access to a 3D printer in order to make the parts for this 3D printer, but that’s how it always works. [Kliment] has gone the distance to make this little exercise enjoyable. The parts that take longer to print are reserved for the weekends, some have been altered to include a holiday theme, and all of them have been optimized to fit on a
Makerbot
build platform.
[Thanks Christopher]
| 24
| 24
|
[
{
"comment_id": "275505",
"author": "xeracy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T19:55:15",
"content": "Can we create some community pool for making reprap parts and getting these into the hands of the HaD community who dont have access any 3d printing?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275544",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:06:47",
"content": "I don’t quite get how that would work",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275610",
"author": "DJ_RIFFIC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:18:50",
"content": "wow this is an awsoem concept and to the guy whos makin all of these adn format compatible your awsome suse, i wish i had a 3d printer so i could follow up with this too, oh well. GOOD WORK",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275647",
"author": "McSquid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:28:39",
"content": "Well the idea is sound. kinda like P2P.1.Print one set of parts for someone who has no 3D printer2.person getting parts pays shipping3.person who just got parts puts it together and starts over at step 1 for someone else.or I could be missing something.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275664",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:34:05",
"content": "@xeracy – looks like you could make most of this on a milling machine, although that would take forever…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275672",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:35:41",
"content": "McSquid: The guys who already have 3d printers would get the short end of the stick. Perhaps a paypal donation drive to start them?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275748",
"author": "Devlin Thyne",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:47:02",
"content": "Once I have made my own Mendel, I’ll make available, through the classifieds section, the parts needed to make another. Maybe other operators will do the same.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275764",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:52:51",
"content": "And before some monkey comes in and (like usual) proclaims “this machine doesn’t replicate itself duuurhp”, yes it does. Maybe not to the extent that everyone would like, but technology isn’t always born perfect. They are working on making the extruder head print other materials so it will one day print the electronic parts too.I’ve always wanted a 3d printer, but the assembly price has always put me off. Even if you get the parts made for you the steppers and other materials will still cost you a pretty penny.– amazing still",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275803",
"author": "ngart",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T21:03:32",
"content": "@Eirinnduuurhp, by that logic milling machines are self replicating.It’s still nice to have open source 3d printers but they will never be self-replicating in our lifetime, at least never to the point of making silicon wafers.Let’s save the term self-replicating for things that actually are.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276089",
"author": "xeracy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:16:06",
"content": "Hackius: I would gladly donate to anyone producing reprap parts for the HaD community.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276293",
"author": "richard sum",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:06:31",
"content": "I dont understand why someone hasnt come up with a £199 3d printer. At the moment the plastic parts cost nearly that. Also the kits around at the moment can cost up to £1000 (makerbot) yet these dont even use linear bearings. If a laptop can be built for £99 then im sure we could build a £199 3d printer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276753",
"author": "Sea Shadow",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T00:19:30",
"content": "First off comparing a 3D printer with a £99 laptop is rather ridiculous. Look at the quality (or rather the complete lack there of) of such machines. Also consider the cost of the components that go into them, as well as what is NOT inside of them.When you start pricing things out, there are a few snags with the idea of a commercial £199 3D printer. First off the electronics. All of the 3D printers require precise positional movement. This is either done by blind driving stepper motors, or setting up encoder systems to do the positional readouts. Either way they are expensive to build and drive. Then there is the control circuitry, most of the DIY systems rely on the arduino family and while some can run on your average 328, most use 644s or 1280’s (aka Mega). Even a clone mega from China will run you ~£25.That’s not including:3-4 Stepper motor controller(s)(or encoder systems with servomotors/steppers)3-4 Nema 14 or 17 stepper motors (depends on if you are going to use a stepper for the extruder or not)3-6 endstops (min & max)power supplymisc wiring, and electronic components (heater controllers, temperature sensors, heater assembly for extruder, USB-TTL bub)Then there is all of the hardware, and unfortunately the part count is through the roof. There are those who are making great strides in simplifying the design, (the original Mendel uses 50+ bearings) but there are still quite a few parts in the designs.Then as you have pointed out there is the RP parts, remember that while these things can print themselves you still have to get the original set of parts from somewhere. For many that has meant sourcing parts through commercial 3D printing systems (myself included). Those people then try to offset the high price they paid for their parts by selling daughter sets to others. With each passing generation the prices for the DIY systems comes down, but good luck with all of the tooling involved for making a commercial system.The material itself isn’t that expensive but it is time consuming to print out a full set of parts for a printer, and time = money. Most of us have built these printers for our hobbies and passions, not so that we can endlessly print out more sets for others.Now don’t get me wrong, I don’t mean to be a scrooge, I AM helping in the creation of two other printers for others, who will then hopefully pass along the favor to others. But as a student I do not have time to make 10, 20, 30+ sets for other enthusiasts at nothing more than material cost.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "277029",
"author": "MRE",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T01:33:54",
"content": "I dont get why these machines keep getting designed with such small working envelopes. With a larger print space, you could print not just frame connectors, but the frame spars as well. Assembling them from 2 inch sections would be silly.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "277155",
"author": "MrX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T02:14:47",
"content": "@xeracy That is a awesome idea. Anyone up to build a website to coordinate those efforts?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "278467",
"author": "Kliment",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T07:02:46",
"content": "Hello. I am the Kliment mentioned in the article. I wanted to answer some of the points brought up here.@MRE – The machine has a 200x200mm build platform, which means you can build quite a lot of actual useful stuff with it. I have one part at a time on there because it’s more fun that way. If you wanted to be efficient you could print all those parts in five plates on even the smallest printers, and in one plate on the 200×200 ones. The reason the frame is steel is rigidity, not printability. We’re working on replacing that, but the print area is not what is limiting us, mechanical stability is.@ cost discussion – The Prusa Mendel is the cheapest replicating (in the limited sense of replicating all the custom-made parts) 3d printer yet. The nonprinted parts are available for about 300€-350€, and the printed parts are at around 150. I and a number of others are participating in a loaner program, where you get the printed parts at no cost on the condition that you print two sets to give to others. Once the number of printers reaches critical mass (and the Prusa can replicate in a day, the standard mendel took nearly 60 hours of print time), the cost of parts will drop. The electronics are already around the 130€ level, and dropping. The hardware store stuff is not going to get any cheaper, but we are replacing it with printable parts at an astonishing rate. The motors and the parts that need to handle high temperatures are the main expense.@ everyone wanting one but having no access to a printer – have you considered a repstrap? A repstrap is something you build out of hardware store parts and use as a minimal printer, good enough to print parts for a better one. The wolfstrap is the current favorite. Instructions are on the reprap wiki in English and German.Finally, in true holiday spirit,http://ikmaak.nlis running a contest that will give free electronics to the person who prints the holiday prusa mendel as a gift and submits the best documentation of the entire process. Have a look at it. We’re really making an effort here to get as many people printers as reasonable.If you want to know more about the project, join us in freenode IRC at #reprap or checkouthttp://reprap.orgKliment",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "278672",
"author": "Swift Geek",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T07:56:45",
"content": "Is somebody from Poland with 3D printer here?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279151",
"author": "-HMav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T09:41:43",
"content": "I’m thinking of building a rep-strap style machine from broken printers. By broken I mean thrown out because of high ink costs. I have found the newer printers all use servo driven carriages. Is the resolution of the plastic encoder strip good enough for position control of the build platform? If we could do away with the steppers the cost would drop considerably.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279254",
"author": "Kliment",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T10:08:28",
"content": "@ HMavThere’s a number of people trying stuff like that, but so far nobody I know of has gotten it to work as accurately as steppers without having it end up costing more. If you want cheap motors, pull apart an old scanner. The problem with servos is that you need to coordinate extrusion motor speed with movements in both the X and Y dimensions. Inkjets only need to set the nozzles on the printhead to the state that matches the encoder position, they do not actually have to move in a precise, coordinated way. The inkjet, as far as I understand it, adapts the ink emitted to its position, rather than using feedback to control the position. Doing that is fine for one axis (the second axis is moved only when the printhead is stationary), but breaks down when you need coordinated motion (as in drawing a given shape). Modern 3d printers coordinate three axes (x, y, and amount of plastic deposited), and move the Z axis only when the head is stationary. I have no idea how that can be reasonably done with servos. That said, it would be very cool if you can prove me wrong on this one.(Incidentally, I posted a response to several others in the thread, but it appear to be “awaiting moderation”. Is this normal?)Kliment",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279389",
"author": "richard sum",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T10:43:13",
"content": "re: Sea Shadow commentsI dont think that a £199 3d printer is impossible. The main problem with the reprap movement is that it HAS to make itself. Why?A 3d printer is basically a cnc machine with a extruder head. My first cnc machine used a very simple control board which cost a few pounds. Motors were unipolar and its used, as do the reprap and makerbots, threaded rod for the drive system. It probably cost less than £100 pounds, maybe £50.And it worked, just. The difference between a cnc machine and a 3d printer is that a cnc machine needs to be more solid as its cutting into materials.A 3d printer is depositing materials and because of this doesnt have to have very powerful parts, hence the nema 14 and 17 motors.Why dont we say we are going to build a £100 3d printer instead of having it build itself.Also why does it need a arduino?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279471",
"author": "richard sum",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T11:04:26",
"content": "Id say at the moment the reprap and makerbot are over engineered. I dont think that the makerbot needs to be anywhere near the cost that it is now given it uses a bearing+threaded screw design.The part that may need the most work is making the extruder design simpler with off the shelf parts. In at the moment experimenting with using mig welding parts for the nozzle.By using off the shelf parts it becomes much easier to build one or supply a kit. I think the main aim is to get the cost down so that people are able to use it with minimal fuss.I also think that maybe it should be basically a simple cnc machine.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279663",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T11:51:48",
"content": "@hmav that can be done the encoder is just a pair of outputs. i am working on a laser etcher using these.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281087",
"author": "tim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T18:24:52",
"content": "@Sea Shadow,you should google again and you will find Arduinos below 15€, or a much more powerfull 32 bit ARM on Stm-discovery below 12€ (including the jtag like programmer/debugger).Electronic and plastic is really NO-cost in such a project.The real costs are in mechanical parts, motors, connectors and labor.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281305",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T19:31:25",
"content": "@Kliment: EMC handles PWM drives with quadrature feedback fairly adequately and I’ve made a mill with the linear strips salvaged from printers. You only get basic PID control with EMC though last time I looked so to get decent accuracy at speed you would need to reduce backlash and flex right down to nothing.I reckon though with proper digital filters in the loop, printer style mechanisms would work. Perhaps the belt drives would need to be switched for steel cables, but that would still be way cheaper than the cast iron frames, acme threads and ball nuts you need on a decent mill.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281831",
"author": "Kliment",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T10:15:52",
"content": "@nesCool, see if you can get it done. There’s already people using EMC as a printer controller. Of course the mass being moved and the drag forces are greater than on a printer, but not as big as with a mill. Steppers start at 14 euros new in Europe, and decent stepper controllers at 13. So if you can really get something working for less than 27 per axis, that would be quite an improvement. The other issue of course is that EMC needs a low-latency parallel port, which few machines have these days. Thus the entire fooling around with microcontrollers.But hey, if you get something working, throw it on the forums or the wiki and I’m sure people will be quite happy to try it out.Kliment",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,322.43332
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/08/vintage-car-audio-gets-mp3-input/
|
Vintage Car Audio Gets MP3 Input
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"digital audio hacks"
] |
[
"car stereo",
"input",
"mp3",
"radio",
"stereo"
] |
[Nali] is fixing up a 1966 Rambler Ambassador and decided to give the audio a bit of an upgrade. Instead of replacing the head unit
he added a connector for audio input
. The method he used is simple, inexpensive, and allows the original unit to continue functioning as a radio. He cut the feed wires going to the volume knob and patched in a headphone jack. The jack he used has an internal switch that is meant to switch off a pair of speakers when headphones are plugged in. The jack will allow the original signal from the radio tuner to pass through whenever there isn’t a connector plugged in. It seems like this is easier on older hardware than it is
on modern equipment
.
This isn’t where his entertainment enhancements stop. [Nali’s] working on a 7″ in-dash Linux machine so
keep your eye on his thread
to see what he comes up with.
[Thanks Joel383]
| 20
| 20
|
[
{
"comment_id": "275020",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:46:38",
"content": "Love the Buick straight 8 right at the top of the thread. I guess charging, airbagging and chopping the Rambler is just a warm up for tackling that beast.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275036",
"author": "DanAdamKOF",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:49:31",
"content": "“will allow”?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275046",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:51:23",
"content": "Its interesting he states that the grounds differ from inside the radio to the vehicle ground, and in most cases that is correct.Solutions? Simple ground loop isolator? $7 at monoprice. Possibly may be able to snip the ground on the signal wire as well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275050",
"author": "PocketBrain",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:54:19",
"content": "“Keep you are eye on his thread?”Hey, I’m building a 7″ touchscreen carputer as well.Using a 60GB SSD for now. Biggest problem is getting a Linux-compatible FM tuner. I’m working on a dock for a slimline CD/DVD-rw that’s USB powered; it would be nice to pop that out to use with my netbook. I keep reving the idea though, so I may never finish it. Flip-up screen, removable, internal battery, etc. Also saw an earlier version of the radio input hack; I wanted to try it, but the stock stereo is showing its age (they don’t build ’em like they used to), so the cartainment system superseded that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275068",
"author": "Kikenite",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:57:05",
"content": "no arduino, i’m amazed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275070",
"author": "pooter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:57:14",
"content": "You should be able to find a FM tuner that works with a recent kernel. Most are included as a side note on TV Tuner cards, but they work well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275162",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T18:27:22",
"content": "“keep you’re eye on his thread”How, how, how do you manage to let this get published?Amazing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275385",
"author": "Xb0xguru",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T19:22:22",
"content": "“Vintage car audio gets 3.5mm socket”.That’s better.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275655",
"author": "ken",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:31:19",
"content": "will it be in mono",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275738",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:44:54",
"content": "Thats a hack.Take a feature manufacturers sell for hundreds and recreate it with 6 $ worth of parts. Nice job.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275788",
"author": "RussWill",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:59:57",
"content": "I never understood this “classic car” crap where everything needs to be (or looks) stock out the box. But it’s a fun write-up.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275864",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T21:18:48",
"content": "ohh it’s this post againanyone know a good place to get those coupled switch/buttons?kinda like on that radio or on a washer dryer or blender etc..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276079",
"author": "greg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:12:10",
"content": "@PocketBrainUSB powered slimline cd drives are available, and pretty cheap:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CM3H36/ref=mp_s_a_10?qid=1291842635&sr=8-10of course hacking one together is fine also.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276187",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:40:12",
"content": "Russ, especially when jamming a 7 inch lcd into the dash",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276251",
"author": "Rob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:56:10",
"content": "Nice hack, in the old-school sense. Takes me back . . .I helped a friend do this some years ago on a ’66 mustang to add a CD player. The audio level at the volume knob wasn’t close to the headphones output, so it took some experimentation to find the best stage to connect the CD output for minimal gain- and impedance-mismatch. The ground loop problem came up then, too. Battery power for the CD (and not adding a connection between audio ground and vehicle ground) solved that to his satisfaction.Also, we didn’t use a fancy switch/jack either, just unplugged the CD (or didn’t use it) while playing 8-track. Yeah, he had an 8-track collection — and a recorder! I like this solution a little better, but my buddy was even cheaper than Phil here.And why the tape input instead of the radio, you ask? It was a stereo 8-track but a separate (in the same chassis) AM-only radio! You could get AM/FM radio in the car _or_ AM/8-track — or just AM for cheapskates.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276319",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:11:51",
"content": "I did it in ’69 with my dads F85 Oldsmobile-Delco. 1/4 inch jack to a Norelco Carrycorder, the proto cassette. Unless you had an old Ford or AMC you couldn’t hack most portable stuff into a car’s radio. This was at a time when most tranys were PNP and positive ground design.The Norelco was cutting edge compared to 4 or 8 tracks. Mono of course, but HiFi and it had neg ground transistor design. Cars by then were all neg ground. Power was on the tip audio on the ring, radio was c/o on insertion.This hack is the best way to do this today. Most factory car radios have good performance and sound except for speakers. But they have little theft appeal too. Upgrade what can’t be seen, power amp and speakers. Then plug in a HiFi source of digital audio, no Mpee’s! That’s progress.Two years later that ’65 Olds got a stereo car type but portable cassette with 2 mounted under dash speakers so the radio with a simple lo-pass became probably the first 2.1 (sub)bass system in the world. And dad didn’t know it was installed!Lastly no computer card or TV tuner pod can compare to any decent factory or Pioneer tuner, most are intermod hell. You should hack the data bus on a Pioneer instead.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "277116",
"author": "TheKhakinator",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T02:04:01",
"content": "Lame. I did this hack way back and it involved more work and was harder and hackier AND had LEDs but I was ignored. :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "277920",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T05:29:27",
"content": "if i was going for a carputer that small, i would get one of those car stereos like this one:http://www.tvszone.com/i124160-jensen-vm9213.html?ref=froogleif that’s anything like the one i was playing with at bestbuy, you push the button, face flips down, screen folds out, touchscreen.. awesomely mechanized. it already plays dvds but i’m sure one of you genius hackers could figure out how to interface it with the carputer, throw in a usb port, maybe some card slots, in the dash or something, of course, leaving the original unit just like it is, only figuring out how to utilize the touchscreen.. unless you’re planning on building a carputer that flips out like that, from scratch. that I would like to see.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281229",
"author": "alan turing's dog",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T19:11:57",
"content": "Nice! Way better than my fix, which was to retrofit my [does it matter?] with a really stupid and overly complex system using an inverter and a generic $100 stereo with remote.I meant to do the car computer thing, but never got around to it. So I just bought a generic all-in-one mini stereo with decent speakers at a pawn shop.I just ran the speakers to the backseat/bench under the carpets – the hardest part was stuffing the whole thing into a milk crate stuffed with foam and wiring the inverter in place of fog lights. Took about an hour and a half to do everything. The stereo in my car is original and has some collector value, so I left it alone.Apart from having to burn custom CDs to put five disks of “appropriate music” in, and the little issue of dropping the remote a lot, it works OK. The mediocre stereo plays .mp3s, so I have a lot of music available.I can’t “crank it up” to create deafness inducing audio levels, but the engine can do that all by itself. I can’t really drive it for more than an hour or two on the freeway without taking a break to relax the smile muscles anyway.Best of all, no one will try to steal the radio because it’s so damn old looking. It took about 10 minutes to change the inverter power connector over to spade lugs. I’d do this again.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282258",
"author": "nali",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T07:55:35",
"content": "I m Nali .English is not my native so be nice with me . I m french . Just avoid slang and I ll understand ..What I did on my old Rambler radio is the result of knowledge .I really know electronics . Not too difficult , I m not proud of it . So what I did was after a lot of mesurement , cares , etc .If you don t know what you do , ask a friend .You may destroy your radio , your mp3 / ogg player or both .",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,322.196316
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/08/christmas-tree-low-water-monitor/
|
Christmas Tree Low-water Monitor
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"home hacks"
] |
[
"attiny85",
"christmas tree",
"sensor",
"water"
] |
The end of the year is rapidly approaching and there’s a good chance you have a slowly dying tree in your living room. Help it hold on a little longer by using [Eric Ayars’]
Christmas Tree water monitor
. He’s built a sensor out of a piece of strip board. Three bus strips on the board allow for a variety of alerts. When all three are submerged everything is ok. When the two longer traces are still under water but the third is not an LED will blink to let you know it’s time. If you don’t pay attention and there’s no water left, a piezo buzzer makes noise until you add water (or the coin cell runs out of juice).
This project centers around an ATtiny85 that [Eric] programmed using an Arduino, one of the methods we covered in our
AVR Programming Tutorial
. But if this simple circuit isn’t high-tech enough for you, we saw a similar method last year that will
send an alert to your iPhone
.
| 24
| 24
|
[
{
"comment_id": "273753",
"author": "Pouncer",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T14:07:57",
"content": "This is something I definitely need to build. I’m forever forgetting to water the tree.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "273838",
"author": "isama",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T14:22:42",
"content": "or you could just buy a fake tree. it doesn’t lose its “leaves” and needs no water. and it lasts for 10+ years.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "273872",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T14:28:24",
"content": "Shoot. This just reminded me that I forgot to water the tree :(So I guess it works.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "273927",
"author": "Ivan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T14:42:26",
"content": "Same problem I’ve seen with other water level monitors, It won’t work.It will work at first, but as there is constant current DC (even if small) through the electrodes, they will corrode and react to electrolysis, and eventually if they are on the same board, let the current pass though even when it’s dry.Humidity sensors are not that simple, even for an ON/OFF sensor, an AC current must be used to avoid crystals forming on the electrodes, whose material should be also carefully chosen.Believe me, you will be throwing the sensor to the garbage by February.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274071",
"author": "klulukasz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T15:01:50",
"content": "@IvanI dont think it was supposed to last longer then for one Christmas… he could have used avr’s sleep mode so the batteries would last much longer as now it is using few mW all time",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274136",
"author": "sam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T15:19:46",
"content": "Hes not using coin cell batteries…..those are AA batteries",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274153",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T15:24:19",
"content": "I made a much more simple moisture level detector a while ago. It is so simple that any person can make it. Really just two transistors, an LED and limit resistor.Check it out here:http://wilson479.spaces.live.com/blog/cns!ABB4BD954AB126DB!495.entryThe version in the write up uses a solar cell I had laying around but you could stick and kind of battery on there. Just modify the limit resistor to suite.For calibration, just move the probes in the soil so they are bordering on LED on / off after watering.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274680",
"author": "Luke",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T16:14:48",
"content": "Even the atiny seems like massive overkill. I can imagine a lot of circuits right off the top of my head that don’t involve a uC. Like a 555 to make a piezo start beeping when the water gets low, or even just a single switch to turn on the piezo when the water is low. I’d skip the electric measurement and just use some kind of hand-fasioned floating switch (think toilet or gas tank)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274835",
"author": "aaa",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T16:56:19",
"content": "guys, just take a look at the water level every couple of days ;-)advantage: cost 0disadvantage: no hacking",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274847",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:00:14",
"content": "Ivan is right, such design mistake is forgivable to 1transistor circuit but with uC there is no reason not to implement AC current",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274949",
"author": "Kemp",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:27:25",
"content": "So these days we use microcontrollers for these types of circuits… interesting.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275079",
"author": "Alex Rossie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:58:54",
"content": "1) A µC for this really? Cheap µCs are making your hacking skills flabby.2) Being submerged in water is a no no.3)A transistor with it’s base attached to a probe into the soil and another probe coming off + would be far more effective.A pot connecting ground to the base probe can control sensitivity.Parts:transistor try BC549LED anyone will do Green is good (super bright means no rsistor needed)Resistor (optional current limiting)Pot (or resistor sensitivity control. optional)some wire and soldercost? Well if you don’t have 2 resistors an tranisistor and led lying around then you wouldn’t be here.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275111",
"author": "Alex Rossie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T18:10:13",
"content": "°+ GND| || || ||\\_/—-|>|—/\\/\\/\\-|| |———–/\\/\\/\\-|| |SOIL^ ^Not bad for an ascii art schematic!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275136",
"author": "gregman_1",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T18:17:57",
"content": "I agree with Alex Rossie and Kemp. I get pretty annoyed seeing uC’s where a solid state circuit would be so easy and effective. It’s like you guys aren’t even trying anymore.I’m sure you guys will remember that at one time, there was no such thing as microcontrollers and circuits like this were built all the time (ask my 59 year old hacker dad). So taking old-hat solid state projects and building them with a microcontroller is like taking a step back in skill.C’mon, HAD, you can do better than that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275250",
"author": "japkin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T18:40:55",
"content": "If you’re going to use a microcontroller for something like this, at least have it SMS you or post a Tweet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275296",
"author": "nanomonkey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T18:54:14",
"content": "The roomba usually tops off the tree after cleaning up dead needles.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275327",
"author": "SkippyHunter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T19:03:31",
"content": "Quote : aaaguys, just take a look at the water level every couple of days ;-)advantage: cost 0disadvantage: no hackingResponse :That’s the spirit aaa, why not just purchase all of your products and watch TV instead of using your brain! It’s silly to be creative, no?Hey wait, isn’t this site all about being creative? Nah, you are dah man, aaa.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275555",
"author": "Daniel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:08:24",
"content": "Give him a break about the microcontroller. They are a great way for someone without a lot of electronics knowledge to build a simple circuit. If you want to hack your own christmas tree, feel free to post about how you did it with a 555. Just don’t expect him to do it the way you want it done if you aren’t willing to do it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275782",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T20:58:35",
"content": "@isama yes also plastic presents and plastic entertainment – while we’re at it, plastic food would also be convenient. It will look nice and people can just eat porridge :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275794",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T21:00:38",
"content": "Warning, ubergeeks present that will whine that this isn’t made using a lemon, 2 electrodes, a piezo and some diodes/transistors.No really this is a nice, affordable project that can be done by anyone. If you feel this could be done easier then please by all means do post a tutorial.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275805",
"author": "Squirrel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T21:03:36",
"content": "Easier way:1. Make a float (out of whatever’s at hand… glue stick without the innards might work, be creative)2. Have the float make some contact (or pull a string that makes some contact etc) when the water gets below a certain point.When the contact is made, it will complete a circuit driving an LED. Another contact and the same float could even be used to drive the buzzerAdvantages: No electrolyzing problems, no uC, cheapDisadvantages: moving partsOr you can use an arduino and a sonar module :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276370",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:27:17",
"content": "Everyone who complains that they could do this with a lump of quartz and a lemon battery with both eyes closed and one hand tied behind their back — why don’t you do it already? Post some of these simple circuits so that the readers can actually learn basic analog electronics, instead of bitching that nobody knows the old ways. Guess why they don’t: because all the people who know them are cranky, arrogant old farts who act like teaching a newbie is beneath them.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276822",
"author": "Alex Rossie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T00:45:11",
"content": "@macw, I did I tried to draw a schematic using this comment but it removed the multiple white spaces.So… we’ll accept your apology when you’re ready.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "277810",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T04:54:55",
"content": "since platinum electrodes are most likely out of question, take some old AA/AAA whatever, just some batteries, rip them open, remove the graphite/carbon core and scrape it clean with a knife. voila! non-corroding electrodes!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,322.86338
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/07/how-to-work-with-el-wire/
|
How To Work With EL Wire
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Wearable Hacks"
] |
[
"el wire",
"electroluminescent",
"inverter",
"tron"
] |
As you can see, [Phillip Torrone] has a nice start on his Tron costume for the movie premiere. Electroluminescent wire is what
makes these costumes glow
and if you’ve never worked with the stuff before you’re in for a treat. Adafruit posted
a tutorial explaining how to work with EL wire
. The process isn’t hard, but they’ve got a few nice tips, like using copper tape as a platform for soldering the corona wires. There is also a discussion of the math involved with properly powering your setup.
In this case, Adafruit is using ready-made power inverter units. If you’ve interested in hacking together your own inverter take a
look at the background information from [Jeri Ellsworth]
.
| 17
| 17
|
[
{
"comment_id": "268318",
"author": "asd",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:09:05",
"content": "is he the son of the tron guy?!? XD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268508",
"author": "jarza",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:29:11",
"content": "He looks like Tom Cruise on that picture..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268630",
"author": "McSquid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:47:41",
"content": "Wow yea he does….I should have done a tron costume.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "269162",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T00:48:05",
"content": "EL wire -Si!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "270748",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T04:35:48",
"content": "Damn, wish I had enough disposable time to do stuff like this :/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "271227",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T06:03:43",
"content": "Does anyone know what inverter they’re using to drive the EL wire?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "271859",
"author": "Bill Nye",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T07:57:27",
"content": "Its his electric personality… he just sticks the other end of the wire up his ass and away it glows!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "273167",
"author": "Zmaster",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T12:05:59",
"content": "Man, i was thinking about a Tron costume just yesterday evening. After the Ironman mini Arc Reactor which i didn’t make it would be a nice thing to build.But i’m not exhibitionist enough to wear it :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "273774",
"author": "Faelenor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T14:11:03",
"content": "Oh, just too late for the office Christmas party. That would have rocked!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274347",
"author": "h3llphyre",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T15:31:45",
"content": "I wish all of these tutorials wouldn’t gloss over the difficulty in removing the PVC insulation, without cutting the corona wires off.The trick I found, was to use an exacto knife to cut the insulation in the gaps between the two corona wires. Then, carefully try to strip it away with wire strippers. If you just try to cut and strip with wire strippers, 9 times out of 10, the corona wires will break off.To add to that, I cannot stress enough how important the copper tape is. The corona wires are so fine, that any stress induced by the power wire, will snap them. The costume I built ended up having to be disassembled twice, to restrip and reconnect the power leads, because the corona wires snapped.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275142",
"author": "Volkemon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T18:19:22",
"content": "@Ekaj- How does one get all that ‘disposable time’ to play with stuff?“September 5th, 2004, [Phillip Torrone] posts the very first article on a new site called Hackaday.com. He designed our logo, forged our identity, and then moved on to help shape many other hacker friendly groups including Make magazine, and Adafruit technologies.”Take 6 years, work your butt off, then you *might* have that opportunity. Or do what I do- sleep less ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275398",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T19:26:17",
"content": "Sleeping less is not always a good solution. I started to sleep less, but now I’m just procrastinating longer ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275430",
"author": "Grovenstien",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T19:33:22",
"content": "Theres loads of places on the web that sell this stuff, DC-AC inverters different types/colours of wire etc. Check out the simple suits i made in this vid of Aeon festival 2009http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HX_8kyoJ2ZEAlso you can see if you bend this stuff to much the corona wire breaks!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276495",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:50:18",
"content": "I’d rater use EL strips/tape/panel than wire for more authentic Tron looks. EL wire is too thin and overplayed now :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "282449",
"author": "t&p",
"timestamp": "2010-12-11T15:20:53",
"content": "if you do this…don’t spill anything on yourself when you get drunk at the party!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "290112",
"author": "spiritplumber",
"timestamp": "2010-12-25T05:15:50",
"content": "You know, other than obvious geek cred (Really looking forward to next halloween!) this can actually be of use to bicyclist / motocyclists.Then again, so would be a jet wall :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1085757",
"author": "mike robison",
"timestamp": "2013-10-29T01:58:25",
"content": "I have 3 feet of blue el wire. I only need about a foot of it. Is it OK to cut it to length ? If so would either piece be uaeable?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,322.366267
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/07/nails-and-some-blacksmithing/
|
Nails And Some Blacksmithing
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"HackIt"
] |
[
"blacksmith",
"buckle",
"nail"
] |
Here’s
a blacksmith turning 4 inch framing nails
into buckles. In the clip after the break he starts by heating and bending the nail around a square form. Next the excess gets cut off and both sides of the square frame are ground flat while in a vise. A smaller nail serves as the prong and a flat piece of metal is shaped so that this can be connected to a leather strap. This ends up as part of the support system for a full suit of armor.
We’ve seen a lot of
great welding projects
over the years, but today’s blacksmithing video leaves us wanting. If you’ve got a favorite project that involved this kind of work
tip us off about it
and we’ll see if we can get some more hacks for the Smithies out there.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40K-ywiB_Sc&w=470]
[Thanks Rob]
| 36
| 35
|
[
{
"comment_id": "268053",
"author": "pod",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:20:45",
"content": "simple and beautiful.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268178",
"author": "andrew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:44:56",
"content": "Yea… Impressive",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268208",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:51:54",
"content": "Beautiful – i especially liked the sped up hammer swings, the sound was funny and pleasing at the same time :) Watching this process has been very educating.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268359",
"author": "barry99705",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:13:56",
"content": "I’ve built a couple hatchets out of railroad spikes, but never filmed it. Need to rebuild my forge.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268360",
"author": "HaDAk",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:14:50",
"content": "Very enlightening. Although, I’d like to see some videos of how he did the armor itself.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268394",
"author": "bro",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:18:53",
"content": "I’d like to see a tutorial to build some ‘steelman’(figures made out of screws and nuts) – like these:http://www.steelman24.com/Any ideas?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "268503",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:27:29",
"content": "Would you guys like me to film some simple metal work? My step father builds armor in his spare time.",
"parent_id": "268394",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "268555",
"author": "Oscar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:37:39",
"content": "Amazing!…i need this nails :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268569",
"author": "Dudes99",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:39:23",
"content": "Just click the next video when this one is done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268611",
"author": "andar_b",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:44:12",
"content": "Hmm, nails? That’s interesting. I suppose they might work if they’re not galvanized. Zinc poisoning is not fun.Most armorers suggest welding rod, and that way you don’t have to trim off the heads either. Or a thick gauge wire would probably fill the purpose as well. Heat the wire as he did for bending around corners, but make a square coil, then cut them several at a time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268621",
"author": "andar_b",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:45:35",
"content": "Yeah Caleb, while some will cry ‘not a hack’, I for one would enjoy that. I used to have a backyard charcoal forge, but we’ve since moved back into an apartment and I had to leave it at my mother’s house.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268672",
"author": "McSquid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:54:47",
"content": "@CalebI would also enjoy that",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268727",
"author": "Adrian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T23:08:07",
"content": "@Caleb – that would be a great tutorial, and if working with materials isn’t hacking related, I don’t know what is!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268742",
"author": "Trollicus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T23:10:56",
"content": "I saw something like this, a blacksmith made some buckles into nails.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268879",
"author": "andrew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T23:43:50",
"content": "@Caleb – yes, please!A lot of the processes in that video were basic but still wouldn’t have occurred to me (e.g., to make a clean square, fold the two end of nail over itself and just cut). More videos on metal working would be awesome.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "269063",
"author": "xeracy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T00:24:10",
"content": "I used to make chainmail in highschool. I would buy bags of links from a real blacksmith in Burbank, California who does a lot of work for TV and Film. Blacksmithing was my Plan B… :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "269089",
"author": "Noggin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T00:31:42",
"content": "Look at the speed that guy works. I’ve seen the Sarah Connor Chronicles. He MUST be a terminator.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "269137",
"author": "barry99705",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T00:43:52",
"content": "@xeracyRings aren’t hard to make. Just chuck up a 1/4 inch rod in a drill press, set the drill for as slow as it goes, and feed it wire. Hit the stop about three inches from the end of the rod, I used a 18 inch-ish rod and the momentum will take the coil the last inch or so. Cut the wire, watch your fingers, it will uncoil several times, and that cut end will cut the shit out of your fingers!! This will also expand the rings a little bit, so they’re not exactly 1/4 inch in diameter. Make a few dozen springs, then to cut them into rings, put them on another rod, and use a dremel to cut a line down one side. Ta-Da! Shit ton of rings fairly quickly. The wire I used was stainless welding wire, comes on a spool a couple miles long. Gave up making the shirt about half way. My hands still hurt, and that was over 15 years ago….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "269400",
"author": "Drackar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T01:35:36",
"content": "One of my biggest issue with buckles is when they don’t weld the cut ends together. For low weight things it doesn’t matter…but put much more tension on that nail than the weight of that armor, eg actually WEAR it, and the wire starts to warp over time. Eventually, it falls apart.i’ve had it happen to me several times on belts, strapping, and so on.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "270095",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T02:41:57",
"content": "@andar_b Most people don’t wear a belt-buckle on bare skin, not hating on your pleasures but that seems an issue for very few others :)@Drackar I also thought it odd, he could at least solder it together, but when you have that flat metal around it too it should be pretty sturdy actually, but still.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "270347",
"author": "Michael Bradley",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T03:20:58",
"content": "At first, I was thinking, waste of time, then I was thinking, kinda knick knackish, then the last scene, I was like OMG, great job!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "270444",
"author": "Reaper",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T03:38:43",
"content": "Suddenly, we realize that electricity makes even blacksmithing more fun. Induction heating, anyone?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "270706",
"author": "Amos",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T04:28:50",
"content": "@WhatnotZinc poisoning doesn’t come from zinc touching your skin (AFAIK), but rather when you’re smithing the nail and breathing the fumes. Still, with the small amount on a nail, unless you make a bazillion of them a day, it should only take an adequately ventilated shop to take care of it. If not, or you’re paranoid, use a respirator.Cool video. I almost lol’ed at the “Benny Hill-esque” sped-up sequences, but it’s a very efficient way to show the process. I would love a whole library of metal-working videos made in this style.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "270785",
"author": "Drake",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T04:41:55",
"content": "Watch the “Up Next” video after the video plays. He shows making a gauntlet",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "270847",
"author": "Pookey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T04:52:13",
"content": "If you guys liked this video, try to find some old footage of Wallace Gussler making a flintlock. He rediscovered colonial-era techniques and built numerous weapons using traditional methods and period tools.Gussler started with a strip of steel and a coal forge with bellows. The strip was welded by fire and judicious pounding until it was a tube.The tube was hand-filed to an octagon shape and bored, and then rifled by hand with hand-made tools.The lock mechanism, including the springs and all the screws were made by hand with handmade tools.The brass details, like the trigger guard, thimble, and patch box plate were all cast at the forge with scrap brass.The stock was sawed, whittled, and planed by hand, and both the wood and metal features received engraving.This guy’s work would blow your minds.longrifle.ws/artisans/artisan.asp?ID=312&membersonly=",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "272816",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T10:53:51",
"content": "Turned a nail into a belt buckle? -and it WORKS??-that is SO a hack!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "273438",
"author": "rapps",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T13:09:02",
"content": "It’s the medieval Macgyver",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "273684",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T14:01:05",
"content": "Buddy of mine runs a real forge. he makes Damascus steel all the time (IT’s actually very easy to do, only the liars say it’s “hard”) as well as lots of other stuff, My favorite was a full size iron maiden he built for this goth rich guy to put in his entry parlor. That thing was insane.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274799",
"author": "andar_b",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T16:43:48",
"content": "lolol, but no, I meant working with hot galvy can evaporate the zinc coating and kill you.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274816",
"author": "andar_b",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T16:47:01",
"content": "and I’ve heard if you have the proper tools and know how, pattern-welded “damascus” steel isn’t all that difficult. But it is often advertised as superior to other steels, but in reality, it is only superior to most available in ‘period’, in modern times we can get better stuff at the scrap yard.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275834",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T21:11:24",
"content": "@amos & @andar_b If zinc is so damn dangerous would we not be all dead? Most every bit of metal in your car is zinc coated, getting hot and scratching left and right, not to mention most every other metal you find outside, and much of the metal you find inside your house too actually, although that might not be stressed/heated much, apart from parts in your heater and AC I guess.Oh and inside your computer, that grey of the metal of your case? zinc (and think about how many modders saw in that stuff, not only making a fine mist but also heating it)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275896",
"author": "Captain Matt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T21:27:31",
"content": "Well that was fun. Might have a go at this when I have some free time at work (and no-ones using the forge)Very informative videos!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276161",
"author": "drum365",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:34:42",
"content": "This is actually how they did it back in olden times. Except of course, they learned their trade on ThouTube.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276195",
"author": "drum365",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:41:33",
"content": "@Whatnot: My understanding (as a hobbyist welder and metalworker) is that the cadmium fumes given off when you heat galvanized metal are toxic. (Which as you may know, means “poisonous” but not necessarily “fatal.”) Maybe not enough to kill you, but enough to make you wish you had been more careful.A lot of people make tall bikes and other nifty gadgets from welded galvanized pipe, and the “common wisdom” (IANAD) is that it’s okay to do this outside or with lots of ventilation.As for myself, I stay away from the stuff. I’ve got a good metal supplier not too far away, and their prices are quite reasonable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276204",
"author": "drum365",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T22:43:00",
"content": "I should also add that the galvanized coating can be polished off with a wire brush or sandpaper. From the outside, anyway.Like I said, I stay away from the stuff.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "318111",
"author": "Nextuz",
"timestamp": "2011-01-29T18:57:45",
"content": "I´m not impressed…Using modern tools.. like heater and grinder?.. av a SAW?Thats no no in blacksmithing =)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,322.936141
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/07/radio-controlled-hard-drive-security/
|
Radio Controlled Hard Drive Security
|
Caleb Kraft
|
[
"Security Hacks"
] |
[
"radio controlled",
"rc",
"security"
] |
[Samimy] has put together this really neat video tutorial on building a
Radio Controlled secure hard drive
. How can a hard drive be radio controlled? That’s the first thing we thought too. He has torn apart a remote-controlled car and is using the guts to remotely switch on power to the drive. This means that the drive is only active if you boot the computer after you put the fob in the hidden security system. It looks like it would be fairly effective. We’re curious though, if he is putting the entire drive assembly inside his PC, why rely on batteries for the circuit? Why not pull from the PC power supply? Another neat upgrade might be connecting to an internal USB connection on the motherboard so a reboot isn’t necessary.
Check out the entire video after the break.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BLqC8CGKy0&w=475]
| 46
| 46
|
[
{
"comment_id": "267120",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:43:00",
"content": "i have used RC cars for just about every RC job i can think of XD have not thought of this one!interesting project!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267152",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:46:37",
"content": "Um, this is only “secure” as long as no one opens up the computer and sees the mysterious wooden box inline with the HDD. From there it’s trivial to short the relay, bridge across it, or connect the HDD to another molex. Even if there was absolutely no way to use the computer’s internal supply, all you need is a motorcycle battery and some clips. Jeez…I do think that more stuff should be radio-controlled though so ++ to that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267194",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:51:58",
"content": "@macwthis protects against someone going threw your filescould be your mom or your kids or your “significant other” or bossim quite sure this is not made to keep the MPAA out",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267214",
"author": "Doc Oct",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:53:47",
"content": "Neat idea for one. I hate to be the internet tough guy this time but there are so many things he could’ve done better. Power from inside the case, usb interface for the harddrive, maybe a nice latching circuit for the relay.. maybe have two connections for the remote, put key in one (forward) relay closes and latches, put key in the other (reverse) relay opens and the hdd loses power.Combine all of that with the Make article about putting flash storage inside an old hard drive case and you could even hide the receiver in there, so things more or less look stock inside the computer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267280",
"author": "Concino",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:59:43",
"content": "This is a nonsense project. Why do you need a remote controller if the both sender/receiver is going to be in the pc case? You can just put a relay between HDD wires as shown and power the relay from outside directly with the 3.5mm jack without needing any R/C circuit.This is nothing more than false sense of security.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267282",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:00:03",
"content": "@BiOzZIf it’s someone who is clueless about computers, like your mom, then putting the files in a hidden folder or on a renamed disk image is totally fine, and allows full access. They won’t know how to find stuff that’s marginally hidden.If it’s someone tech-savvy you’re worried about, obviously this won’t work because we’re tech-savvy and we are poking holes in it.If it’s someone like your boss, he’ll just take the computer to IT and they’ll open it up as a matter of procedure and find your “additions”.It’s basically way overkill for anyone it would be useful against, and nowhere near secure enough for anyone else. You got secret files, just put them on an encrypted disk image on your main drive and they’ll be secure against anyone who doesn’t have a supercomputer and years of time, all for the total price of $0.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267306",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:02:08",
"content": "@Concinothe transmitter is hidden in the room with a security key to turn it on. In order to operate this you need to put the key (or 6 volts) into an extra jack on the dude’s stereo system. Clever way of hiding the transmitter but the rest of it is p. weak",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267355",
"author": "The Cheap Vegetable Gardener",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:07:15",
"content": "Also could be good for the accidental virus infestation (only turn on to do backups) Though for that a simple toggle switch would suffice…searching parts box for a toggle switch.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267375",
"author": "Concino",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:10:09",
"content": "@macwI must have missed the part that he was putting the remote in the stereo system. I thought it was a strange looking PC. :)It’ll not be a good day for him when the battery dies out right in the middle of a Windows Update, by the looks of the project I can safely guess he is running windows.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267440",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:17:46",
"content": "just hide a thumbdrive?seems like a long way to go to hide porn from your wife..also, not very secret now that you posted the video explaining what you did online",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267644",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:43:02",
"content": "A 0.21$ toggle switch can do this.Not really useful.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267649",
"author": "baobrien",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:43:34",
"content": "I wonder what would happen if someone happened to be playing with RC cars that just happened to be on the same frequency…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267731",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:54:40",
"content": "@macwyou could be a computer genius that does not mean you are able to rip out a hard drive than load it in to another computer … browse it than stick it all back in within a time period and do it in a way where i would not noticejust the same as my car has a key … no if i left it in the middle of DC for 2 weeks it would not still be there but if i park it in a parking lot for 5 hours chances are it will not be touched simply because its not easy and chances of getting caught is far higherand besides if you dont know the hidden drive is there and no drive shows up on the computer most likely you would not know its there and ripping open a computer just to check is risky and troublesome",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267764",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:57:57",
"content": "Really pointless, plus you risk loosing files or even breaking things the first time your circuit fails.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267872",
"author": "nonermouse",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:09:08",
"content": "You could just put a toggle switch in place of the wooden box on the red wire of the molex connector and hide it on the back of the PC or something. This would be much easier, more efficient, and achieve the same end result.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268088",
"author": "Adam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:26:25",
"content": "I don’t understand this project at all. There is 0 security here. It requires you to shutdown/startup the computer to change state… Simply you could have just disconnected the power physically from the drive and achieved the same results with the same “security”. I’m not sure why since he put that giant box in the computer that he didn’t just run a control line to a port on the computer not being used for audio… many cases have mic/line-in/headphones/etc jacks, he could have pulled one of them (not from the mb, but extensions on the case) and inserted his “key” there.Also, he’s powered the whole device with standard power. He could have made his fob unique by outputting a specific voltage, having his “remote” test that voltage and then decide whether or not to turn on the signal… and better yet, power the remote and box from internal power and he could remove the key while using the drive.On a serious note. Do not do this at home… When your batteries begin to die… your hard drive power will “flicker” and if you’re writing data when this starts to happen… can you say “data corruption”?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268090",
"author": "Seth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:26:36",
"content": "I would use Truecrypt, it is easier, faster and way more secure than this tinkering.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268105",
"author": "Adam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:29:04",
"content": "Let me add… This would be a SPECTACULAR IDEA for remote storage…Odds are no one would go looking for it. A Wi-Fi enabled disk array stored…in the attic or basement… turned on by remote.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268192",
"author": "rain",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:49:21",
"content": "ahahhahahawow simple !! very cleaver!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268312",
"author": "Concino",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:07:59",
"content": "Well, just remembered as well. Most of the modern HDD now have HDD password (not a BIOS password). HDD stores this in the HDD and if you cannot pass the right password to the HDD controller, it just does not let you access to the HDD content at all. This usually works with the boot HDD at the BIOS level. I am not sure if there is a tool out there that would enable/disable the HDD within OS by sending LOCK/ENABLE commands.Also some HDD manufacturers implement built-in encryption on their HDD controllers. That’s another way to secure the HDD.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268361",
"author": "Gaige",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:15:19",
"content": "he couldn’t use the regular psu to feed power to the RF device then the hard drive because it would’ve overload right? he would had to add a custom resistor for such madness",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268562",
"author": "Harvie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:38:26",
"content": "you can make the relay power itself once it’s activated. so you will need only short single pulse of remote controller and you can be sure that small batteries that are powering the remote control will not get depleted while PC is on. you will be still able to shut the relay by turning computer off or by disconnecting it for a moment.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268677",
"author": "Pa55w0rD",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:55:55",
"content": "Nothing wrong with getting creative when hiding pr0n",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268736",
"author": "TimW077",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T23:09:46",
"content": "Clever idea! Caleb, I like your improvement ideas, using the PC Power supply, and an internal USB port would be improvements.Another idea would be to have your transmitter be USB powered. You would want to have a switch on it, so just plugging it in wouldn’t connect your hidden drive.Of course anyone with physical access to the box can bypass this remote control.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268853",
"author": "mr brown",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T23:35:25",
"content": "a technical note: you do not need to reboot after powering on the drive – sata protocol supports hot plugging devices. It’s up to your OS to rescan the controller – any decent OS can easily be forced to do that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "269192",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T00:55:10",
"content": "I kind of like it as a concept, but I have to agree that it isn’t fully implemented on a few levels.-and yeah using RC frequencies for stuff like that is just asking for interference, especially when your receiver is sitting right next to an RFI generator. (the PC)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "270219",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T03:02:28",
"content": "Use the relay on a power or data line for a USB port or use a multi-pole relay on all lines, and then you can make an all-in-one black box drive inside the computer.Just wire it to an external USB port connection on the MB or pull the plug inside the case if it won’t be missed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "270728",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T04:33:02",
"content": "I guess this is about as secure as hiding a flash drive inside your PC case. Better make sure the screws are tight? That will at least slow *them* down…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "270779",
"author": "alan turing's dog",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T04:40:33",
"content": "@seth-Truecrypt has back doors.The big kids have (well, had) boxes with SCSI in the middle that xor scrambled/unscrambled data based on external keys loaded into static cmos ram with drain resistors. In those days the drives were tiny (<60 MB), so who knows what the state of teh art is.Dunno the algorithms, but even if you had the box, without the external keys/factors, you had a big job ahead of you to get the data out. With the onset of USB and micro sd, this would be pretty straightforward to re-implement.Seriously, does no one read Gibson?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "271403",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T06:17:44",
"content": "@alan turing’s dog – “Truecrypt has back doors.”Did the voices in your head tell you this when you had your tinfoil hat on or off?Any reliable source for that little tidbit?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "271524",
"author": "dude",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T06:39:13",
"content": "I’m thinking this could be done with a wireless network storage. maybe add and an avr connected to a tilt sensor and a really big magnet. all your storage could be remote and if it was tampered it would self-destruct… or wipe… don’t broadcast the ssid and no one would know its there use a different crystal to change the frequency and maybe make it a digital signal… maybe train the avr to understand Morse code from your remote…hide this porn server in the attic or in a crawlspace.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "271877",
"author": "Andynonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T08:00:45",
"content": "Someone should make the RC controller a red calculator, and it would deactivate the hard drive when someone entered nine nines, took the square root and then pressed INT.That would make 2010 more like 2010.Explanation: In the book “2010: the Second Odyssey,” Heywood Floyd’s red calculator was a remote control for a power cutting device that he planned to use if HAL went crazy a second time. It activated in the way mentioned.You know what else would be fun? If said device would do something else if you replaced 5318008 for the nine nines.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "271906",
"author": "Andynonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T08:06:06",
"content": "There is some talk that this device is useless against tech savy people. Probably right, if they get an idea that there is something they should be looking for.This RC device is sort of a solution, as you could turn it on and off without opening up the box you hid the HD.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "271941",
"author": "Andynonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T08:11:57",
"content": "There is some talk that this device is useless against tech savy people. Probably right, if they get an idea that there is something they should be looking for.This RC device is sort of a solution, as you could turn it on and off without opening up the box you hid the HD. Once they find it, though, you’re sunk.This would probably work better in the fashion I mentioned in the previous comment: turning off rogue computers… Provided said computer doesn’t have arms or an Indian programmer who you call to when it stop worki–FFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU–Explanation: HAL 9000 was made by an Indian programmer who, in “2010,” went to the Discovery and helped fix HAL. He also intentionally disposed of Dr. Floyd’s power cutter.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "272193",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T08:55:35",
"content": "@alan turing’s dogPlease show me where the backdoor is in the source code. Filenames and linenumber please..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "272637",
"author": "Richard Ballard",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T10:00:49",
"content": "I guess that’s neat, but a quicker and easier method would be to splice in a switch and hide that. The wiring would be easier to hide and a switch can be placed anywhere and hidden, or converted (like the reset switch could be changed to an on off switch and used).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "272830",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T10:57:57",
"content": "@ Richard Ballard:Or maybe a magnetic switch and a magic magnetic ring?You could even have the switch under a specific part of the desk so the system only works when you place the ring (or a magnet) or your hand wearing the ring on a certain spot to make it all work.THAT would be pretty darn slickeroo right there.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274785",
"author": "antonio",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T16:40:18",
"content": "Congratulations, this is a great mode for hiden a HDD, your metod is very creative.regards fron mexico.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274820",
"author": "samimy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T16:49:23",
"content": "This site is great, i have now learned too much from people who add comments or hacks on this site,thank you all.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274859",
"author": "therian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:03:49",
"content": "So non of his neighbors can play with tiny cars because of this guy false security ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276297",
"author": "bothersaidpooh",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:07:19",
"content": "neat hack..i can one-up this. obtain a 2.5″ drive and retrofit inside a gutted 3.5″ drive, reroute the sata connectors through the existing head amplifier PCB with the antenna wired through the unused pins.:-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "279312",
"author": "markus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T10:21:59",
"content": "Regardless of all the semi-negative comments up to this point…There is a lot of potential for modified versions of this concept- I have one in mind that I plan to start on tomorrow.I really wish people would stop using the HAD comments as a forum to grade other people’s hacks and just use the HAD posts to fuel their own creativity. Kinda the point of it all I thought.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "280512",
"author": "Helix",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T15:05:56",
"content": "Am I the only one who thinks of the Hamburglar running after a HDD on wheels, when reading the title :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281554",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T23:22:23",
"content": "Those CR2032s aren’t gonna last long with that relay. This is just another one of those useless hacks, that kipkay usually makes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281883",
"author": "capt_wheeto",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T13:01:50",
"content": "@TomYes. Because that’s how backdoors work in cryptography right? There’s some a piece of code that just implements a backdoor, herp derp. You wouldn’t be able to easily give a single section of code, analyse how it encrypts the data. The way truecrypt act sort of make me suspicious howver I doubt there is a backdoor.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1053883",
"author": "Jeffrey",
"timestamp": "2013-09-07T21:31:21",
"content": "This is extremely frustrating… You don’t show where to connect which wires to what, you just show the result… this video is pointless to follow",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.158666
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/07/project-hosting-a-common-question/
|
Project Hosting, A Common Question
|
Caleb Kraft
|
[
"Ask Hackaday"
] |
[
"hosting"
] |
Ok, you’ve finished your project, you’ve taken great notes along the way and photographed every step. Now you want to share. Where will you post it? There are a lot of options out there, private hosting, Hackaday, instructables, and tons of others. How can you decide? Here are some handy break downs to help you figure it out at a glance.
Each has its own pros and cons. Take a peek at our list after the break and share your own as well.
1. Send it to Hackaday.com
What? Hackaday will host my project? Yes, possibly. We won’t host everything, but we really do like to host cool stuff. As far as we’re concerned, it isn’t much different from linking to your project on another site. We still write an article, we still give you full credit, you just don’t have to put it up elsewhere.
Pros: Tons of readers. Free.
Cons: Not a system where you can log in and edit. You send to us, if it is cool, we post it.
2. Instructables.com
This is a very common option. It is easy to set up, quite popular, well promoted. However, we see complaints about it daily due to the cons.
Pros: Huge reader base already there. Tools to make documenting easier. Free.
Cons: The advertisements are overpowering sometimes. People have to log in to view all of your photos.
3.Your own private site.
Absolute control.
Pros: You have full control of the look, feel, and behavior.
Cons: This can cost a little money for hosting and be time-consuming. It isn’t that fun if you hate web design either.
4. A forum.
This is a pretty common one. It can be nice to follow along as a project develops but popular ones can string out over many pages. It can get tiring trying to dig the important information out of a popular forum thread.
Pros: You have full control of the content.
Cons: not a great layout for following a project. People might need to log in to see it.
Our Suggestion:
Your own personal site. Sure, it can be a pain to set one up and get hosting. Ultimately though, you have the most control of your content. With
Fantastico
becoming more common on hosts, you may not even have to learn any html. Just pay your hosting fee, log in and push a button and you have
wordress
or
joomla
or
drupal
installed.
Tell us what other places you host your projects and why you would choose them. Would anyone like a basic tutorial on setting up a simple site to host your own project?
| 79
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "265623",
"author": "Daid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T16:56:36",
"content": "And how about just hosting it on wordpress.com instead of setting up your own wordpress(.org)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265625",
"author": "Kevin Gunn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T16:57:19",
"content": "Don’t forgethttp://makeprojects.com/It’s still getting off the ground, but is promising in terms of eventually having the same pros as Instructables, but it doesn’t seem to have the same drawbacks (ads ads ads).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "265731",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:21:27",
"content": "@Kevin Gunn,I had not seen that. They seem to have done a great job (/trashes secret personal project)",
"parent_id": "265625",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "265629",
"author": "stuckatwork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T16:58:09",
"content": "Anything but instructables!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265630",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T16:58:11",
"content": "If you want a quick and easy way to document your projects without learning anything new go get an account atPosterous. Just write an email about your project and it takes care of the rest.Here’s what mine looks like:http://szczys.posterous.com/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265634",
"author": "spiritplumber",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T16:58:31",
"content": "I offer hosting for the asking, pretty much — just email me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265641",
"author": "rob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:00:05",
"content": "what about something like blogger? googlepages?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265662",
"author": "godi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:03:46",
"content": "Although I don’t ride along on the current of (very) negative sentiments in recent discussions on HaD regarding Instructables, it certainly is not my preferred or favorite site. Thank you for lining out the available options, hopefully thereby once and for all making any negative comments here towards Instructables moot.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265665",
"author": "WHAZUUUUP",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:04:37",
"content": "Get a free Google account and create a Google wsite! Everything free and enough space to upload stuff. No worries to use HTML.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265680",
"author": "Brian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:08:27",
"content": "Squarespace! I hate to be a fanboy but they are great at hosting. The support is fast and skilled. I can’t say enough good things about this service.And no, they don’t pay me. :) Just a satisfied customer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265692",
"author": "Grovenstien",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:11:19",
"content": "Forums can sometimes lose your thread or delete it if it becomes old!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265695",
"author": "djrussell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:11:44",
"content": "when using forums your posts can be spread over multiple pages. one way around this is to reserve the first few posts if they allow you to edit later on.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265700",
"author": "Chris Muncy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:12:58",
"content": "One thing about a user forum is that if you do post up a project that’s complete, great, as all of the info could be in one link.If you are working on a project and want active feedback or your project is slow to develop and still want to show your progress then a forum can be used for that as well.( I really would like to see HaD get a forum up :p )WordPress would be a great spot to host a project as well. Minimal advertising, the ability to post comments, free.A lot of good ideas as well listed above. But I really would love to see HaD host this idea.For example:http://www.jeepforums.comGreat site for the jeepers in us. Tech support, build pages, classifieds, news. All inclusive. I think there are enough daily readers of HaD that adding a forum type structure would boost the sites activity.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265701",
"author": "techyguru",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:13:21",
"content": "Host it yourself!I was worried about the load from all the readers. But altimatly my 6 year old desktop/server handled it easily. It was actually quite fun to watch the traffic come from all over the world. For tracking I use sitemeter.com and so does HaD.You don’t need to pay for a static IP just get dynamic DNS setup, I use freedns.afraid.orgAnd now I have a website for anything else I need, like running a web proxy to get around my work’s bluecoat filter. The try to keep me off HaD, but it doesn’t work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265706",
"author": "nah!",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:15:13",
"content": "how about dropbox?as long as there is no interactive content it pretty does the job",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265711",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:16:33",
"content": "Worpress is pretty good. Or I’ll host your project on my site, just ask.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265712",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:16:50",
"content": "Blogger is free an perfect for such needs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265740",
"author": "dude42",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:23:33",
"content": "I have my own host, with a TB a month bandwidth and 50 gigs of storage that I use for all sorts of crapthat being said the last time I had a project page I did not stay on top of it daily and it was hacked giving users one of those stupid XP virus warning things, I just dont do enough projects to babysit itI post on instructables because of the large user base and the other perks that come along with being a decently rated author, from a silly Halloween card to swag (wearing a instructables T-shirt right now) to being able to enter awesome contest’sand honestly if everything I posted on instructables was on a home site, it may not be there tomorrow and it sure as hell would not get the amount of eyeballs (my jog wheel is already up to 30,000 views)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265745",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:24:36",
"content": "oops that last post was from me, I just hadnt changed the user name from one of the times I was banned lolOsgeld",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265762",
"author": "Kevin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:27:27",
"content": "Github, Launchpad, Google Code, Assembla, Sourceforge, etc. are all great VERSION CONTROLLED free repository hosts.Everyone should use version control.There are other ways to publish a project (and a forum or blog might be perfect for that), but hosting is an entirely different thing.As a side note, I missed the past discussions, but I wanted to add my voice that I’m totally anti-Instructables. It’s unfortunate that so many good projects violate the hacker ethic by being posted on a site with overwhelming advertisements which is crippled until you “Go pro”. Log out of your account, and try to browse your projects. It’s pretty gross.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "532230",
"author": "N0LKK",
"timestamp": "2011-12-11T11:57:08",
"content": "Being totally anti-Instructables is your right, but I find it odd that many of us non “pro” visitors aren’t experiencing an instructables site that’s overwhelmed by advertising. In the event anyone posting a project is violating some hacker ethic, can only mean there are some nonsense hacker ethics.Yes Google docs works well for sharing information without creating a full blown web page somewhere. Perhaps I don’t fully understand the capabilities of repositories, and I thought them an adjunct to the primary project page.",
"parent_id": "265762",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "265769",
"author": "nooooo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:28:16",
"content": "http://www.wordpress.comhttp://www.blogger.comboth are free blogging platforms and would work great for hosting projects. not to mention them as viable options in this article is ridiculous. they are a perfect happy medium between instructables/forum and hosting your own site. there are probably other free options available too… google around.in my opinion instructables really really sucks. the ads are horrendous and have just gotten worse. they are just profiting off of the community and its gross. i wish people would abandon it altogether. why do the work for someone else to benefit from it?forums are good places for questions/answers but lousy for documentation. see reasons noted in the comments above.best: start your own site. if you are reading HAD often chances are you can handle it. hosting costs are super-duper cheap and lots of places allow for one click installs of apps like wordpress, or drupal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265856",
"author": "sp00nix",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:43:21",
"content": "if anyone wants to make a site for projects thats free to access im willing to host it. I hate the current sites, real PITA.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265868",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:45:59",
"content": "They’re all valid suggestions. I’ve used them all (including Instructables a few years ago when it didn’t stink as bad). If you’re not too camera shy Youtube/Vimeo/Flickr are an option too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266134",
"author": "orvtech",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:52:23",
"content": "You could host it at home in a NSLU2.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266678",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:59:28",
"content": "I host my projects in worklog form athttp://www.thebestcasescenario.com:)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266691",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T18:01:32",
"content": "Let’s miss the one that was designed for this….Create a PDF and upload it to torrent sites. Bittorrent is a GREAT use for this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266700",
"author": "monkeyslayer56",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T18:05:05",
"content": "am i the only one who noticed wordress linking to wordpress? two different things or one and the same? typo?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266722",
"author": "The Cheap Vegetable Gardener",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T18:11:29",
"content": "If you go with WordPress be sure to get your own domain, so when you eventually move to your own hosted site (for control or monetization reasons) it is an easy switch without creating broken links",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266723",
"author": "Japala",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T18:11:35",
"content": "http://allthemods.com/might interest someone. I created the site mainly for computer modders but we have received several non-computer related projects too. Images are hosted in-house but one can also link to external images if need arises.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266734",
"author": "r_d",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T18:14:54",
"content": "Free blogs are, in my opinion, one of the best options.It’s as simple as logging into Blogger with your existing Google account and selecting “create a blog”. You plenty of control over formatting and such without all the tedium of building a site from scratch. You don’t pay anything and you don’t have to deal with advertisements unless you want them (in which case you get paid by adsense).A lot of the options listed really aren’t very good at all. Instructables loves to shove the “Buy pro membership now!” page in your face every two seconds and requires viewers to log in for even the most basic stuff. Forums _really_ aren’t an option because old posts get archived or deleted. I personally don’t like the idea that so many potentially awesome resources for hobbyists like myself are lost in that manner.It actually would’ve been nice if HaD had suggested something that we don’t already know about instead of just listing a bunch of popular (and mostly pretty crappy) choices.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266816",
"author": "svofski",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T18:34:08",
"content": "I agree with Kevin. Use hostings with version control. You do not need fancy page layouts, but more often than not, version control is necessary. Not only for the source code: it also works for all your drawings, CAD files, photos and what not.It is also often possible to use stuff hosted in a repository in other pages, like in a blog. For example, a drawing of your contraption may be stored in googlecode repo and embedded in a webpage somewhere else. You update the drawing, the webpage gets the current version. A better choice: keep the html in the repository too!Most free project hosting sites also allow for a description page and even a full-featured wiki. Google documents can be shared for public viewing too.Oh yes, and instructables is already in hell. No need to reiterate that it needs to go there.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266877",
"author": "tubaguy50035",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T18:45:29",
"content": "I too am willing to work on and host a project website. I have 5 TB of free storage currently. Email me if interested.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266882",
"author": "peter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T18:46:35",
"content": "+1 for wordpress",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266897",
"author": "Pilotgeek",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T18:50:27",
"content": "Just upload it to your webserver, duh./Wait, everyone DOESN’T have their own webserver?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266937",
"author": "tantris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:01:19",
"content": "putting your stuff on wordpress or hosting it yourself would, if nothing else, at least increase the importance of had ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266987",
"author": "firestorm_v1",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:11:07",
"content": "Honestly, hosting is very cheap right now. I had my site hosted on a shared plan for $10/mo and offered unlimited domains, disk and bandwidth provided your traffic didn’t cause an issue with the server’s operations for the other customers on the server. Some plans will even host single-domain accounts for $5/mo so it’s very inexpensive to get a site.Even when some articles made Hack-A-Day, I never got any warning of suspension or any corrective action against my sites. Granted I’m not “high-traffic” by any stretch of the imagination, but my sites would hit ~5k visits when an article was hit and would then taper off down to “normal” traffic.The servers performed well and I never had a problem with it. I generally moved to a VPS because I want more control over my sites than a shared plan could offer but still for a site starting out, a cheap shared plan is best.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267059",
"author": "ENKI-][",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:30:20",
"content": "Why isn’t ‘486 in your mother’s basement’ on this list? Given the number of projects floating around that involve running a webserver off of an AVR or some other two-dollar microcontroller (and given how many people don’t actually have an always-on connection, compared with ten years ago), unless you are hosting slashdot-article-of-the-week, paying real money for professional hosting is kind of unnecessary.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267060",
"author": "Necromant",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:30:37",
"content": "My choice is – “The toilet hosting solution”. I just keep my own server up and running in my toilet.Running debian, fully autonomous, on an intel atom based motherboard.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267265",
"author": "Martin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:58:25",
"content": "+1 for your own webspace with WordPress. It costs me about 80 Eurocent for 1 gig of webspace and one .de domain every month.Bonus: get your own email adress that no one can take away.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267336",
"author": "Justblair",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:04:20",
"content": "Here are a couple of suggestions….If you think that you are going to want to dedicate some time to it, running your own website can be very rewarding. I would stay clear though of free services and instead pay an annual cost for a site with your own domain.If you put some effort in, and use some online advertising (Google Adsense for example) there is no reason why you should not be able to break even with even a modest site. Don’t expect to become a millionaire though!Another option is to find someone else who will add your articles to their site. Athttp://www.justblair.co.ukI have several articles written by others and am delighted to host projects if they are similar to my own.A lot of website owners will be more than happy to help out this way… A big advantage is that you will reach an existing readership straight away.I would look for similar projects to your own and then contact the owner of the site.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267344",
"author": "Tweeks",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:05:44",
"content": "Shamless plug..A lot of hacker geeks at my company host their own blogs and CMSs here at Rackspace using our Xen based cloud offering:http://www.rackspacecloud.com/cloud_hosting_products/servers(starts at $11/month)Pretty cheap.. and you get full root.Tweeks",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267409",
"author": "Tweeks",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:13:36",
"content": "Hey @ENKI..Speaking of hosting on a 486.. I used to run a couple web sites and mail lists on my “lunchbox” server here in the Rackspace SAT1 data center:http://theweeks.org/toms-stuff/PSI-WEB.htmlAhh.. The early years at Rackspace.Those were the days.. :)Tweeks",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267431",
"author": "Dan Fruzzetti",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:16:29",
"content": "Hackaday is a decent place, but they get to decide whether your hack is ‘cool.’ And seriously, I don’t want a bunch of late teen and early twenties deciding whether my stuff is cool; they’re all childless and don’t get it :PAnother complaint I have about hackaday is that it tends so heavily toward electronics hacking; there are lots of cool non-electronic hacks out there, some of which fit with the hackaday.com ethos. In fact, some of the best hacks ever are free and use no electricity!I’m dismayed that you didn’t mention the hassle of owning your own server. When you make the decision to splurge, either you choose simplicity or feature set. When you choose simplicity, it’s great because security is a relative breeze but you get no features. When you choose features, it’s great because you can do all that PHP and other junk, but it’s a hassle because you’re always updating for security purposes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267480",
"author": "Jay",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:22:48",
"content": "Squarespace. That’s where I keep my site/projects. Almost 0 cording required and they take care of everything. Currently I post my projects in a blog, but I think I might need to make dedicated pages for bigger or more popular projects.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267538",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:29:53",
"content": "if your hack is hacky enough you can send it to thereifixedit.com",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268198",
"author": "Derrick",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:50:57",
"content": "I can offer free, managed hosting for many non-profit hacks, just click my nickname.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268232",
"author": "tehgringe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:56:42",
"content": "I see hosting as I stand up quite a few web based experiments that can’t be facilitated by wordpress or other pre-fabbed blogging services. It worked out easier for me to sign up for a reseller account, and along the way I’ve been dishing out accounts to folks that need some dedicated project space for the last 12 months.£30 + cost of domain for a decent hosting package.end of plug.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268576",
"author": "FaultyWarrior",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T22:40:06",
"content": "I self-host my site, which is nice since the server is also connected to my local DMZ – meaning uploaded 4GB of high-res. photos and 720P videos doesn’t take a century. Learning HTML is easy, and if you really suck at coding – DreamWeaver exists. I find self-hosting far cheaper than paid hosting, especially given that I host several sub-sites and a private discussion board, which totals close to 250GB of stuff.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268775",
"author": "CH",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T23:18:16",
"content": "You can get a free GitHub page. Not only is github good for code, but it offers GitHub-Pages; Version Controlled website!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268888",
"author": "Onder Vincent Koc",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T23:46:59",
"content": "Hi there im Vincent from Loophole Studios and avid followers, were happy to provide free hosting on our dedicated servers located in California, Frankfurt, London and Amsterdam. We love community and open work and would love to give back to the community. Email us for free project needs at: projecthosting (at) loopholestudios (dot) co (dot) ukThanks Guys!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "269355",
"author": "WolfPack",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T01:27:09",
"content": "Im going to jump on the squarespace band wagon. It is a great site, really easy to use. I can code html, install wordpress and have done so for other sites but for my business and personal site i just wanted something straightforward and easy to use. focus on what im doing rather than how im going to display and host it.Having said that the fees are rather high for hosting but you need to consider the fact that it really is a no brainer setup.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.025436
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/07/tuesday-two-fer-battery-cases-and-abs-lettering/
|
Tuesday Two-Fer: Battery Cases And ABS Lettering
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"battery",
"case",
"compartment",
"toner transfer"
] |
These are both interesting, unrelated, and can’t quite stand on their own so we threw them into one post.
On the left you see the product of
using toner transfer on ABS plastic
. [Bogdan] tried this out as a way to make front panels for his enclosures. It really shouldn’t work very well because ABS has a lower melting point than toner does. But it seems that it takes a while for the ABS to heat up. If you’re quick, ironing for about 10 seconds, you can get the toner to stick to the plastic and then soak the paper off, leaving your printed design looking nice and clean.
To the right you see
a printed battery case
. [Nikolaus Gradwohl] ran across the same problem we’ve face many times: how to attach batteries to your projects? We’ve duct-taped them together,
used the blister packs they’re sold in
, Dremeled them out of thrift-store toys and just about every other thing you can imagine. He decided to make them easy to manufacture with a 3D-printer. This is accomplished with an OpenSCAD file he wrote. Plug in the size and number of batteries and a printable package will be automatically generated.
| 13
| 13
|
[
{
"comment_id": "265213",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T14:58:56",
"content": "That toner transfer onto plastic is very neat. I wonder if it would work as well with color toner onto black abs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265266",
"author": "IsotopeJ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T15:22:26",
"content": "I’ve had great results transferring toner to powder-coated surfaces too. The powdercoating and toner melt together so it’s really durable.I wonder how much the plastic costs to print a battery pack like that. (really, I have no idea what it costs to run a makerbot) I’m sure it’s cheaper to just buy a battery holder. But I know the motivation here isn’t to save money, so I appreciate the project. It’s probably also a nice resource for makerbot owners who might have just ran out of their last AA holder.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265365",
"author": "JC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T15:50:03",
"content": "Good idea with the toner transfer, I may be able to use that sometime… Not sure how many of us have a 3D printer to make our own battery cases though.Nice post though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265509",
"author": "Urza",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T16:31:36",
"content": "@IsotopeJ: May be more expensive than buying one online, but I doubt it costs more than getting one locally, especially if your only option is RadioShack. Those guys will charge $2 or more for a single battery holder. And if you need something like 3 AAs, you’re screwed – you’ll have to buy two, and it’s gonna be close to $5. If you keep a supply of plastic for your Makerbot, I can see this being cheaper to get one _right now_ than going to a store.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265528",
"author": "Rob Wentworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T16:38:59",
"content": "Makerbot plastic need not be expensive. You can use recycled milk jugs:http://blog.makerbot.com/2010/08/03/recyclebot-makes-hdpe-for-your-makerbot-from-milk-jugs/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266682",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T18:00:23",
"content": "Many craft stores sell Tshirt silk screen kits.Silk screening works on Project boxes as well. I use the Tshirt kits to make case or panel silk screenings.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267065",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:31:52",
"content": "Urza, they cost 99 cents for the single and double models, maybe 2 bucks for a 3X AAAum yep 2 buckshttp://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102735please keep your bull to yourself we can look at radioshack prices too",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267333",
"author": "Mikey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:03:58",
"content": "@Osgeld that’s online… I’ve bot tons of battery cases at radio shack — you have to deal with the fact that they never have the one you need. You may well be stuck with buying two $2 cases (1 AA + 2 AA)… plus they have different models of the same cases, the cheap ones are always gone, some of the cases are $3 or more… I’ve spent $8+ around halloween to get a 6 C cell holder… (2x 2 cell + 2x 1 cell — that’s all they had in stock!)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268136",
"author": "bogdan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:35:37",
"content": "@nes I don’t know if color toner will work on black, but it should work on white(light color) quite well in terms of visibility.@IsotopeJ it seems to me that the toner got fused to the ABS.@fartface got any pictures with the results. I’d like to see.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268150",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:37:50",
"content": "yea ok, I just call before I go istead of being suprised when I get there (cause radio shack is 40 min away for me and Im not driving that far to hodgepodge something that only takes about 3 days from digikey)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "273476",
"author": "DeadlyDad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T13:19:10",
"content": "I’ve used battery storage cases (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3558~r.44625746), flashlights, and the ends of remote controls; all work just fine, though a minor hassle to convert. For future projects, I will be switching to 5v, USB based power. There are alotof inexpensive, external, rechargeable battery packs available, in a wide range of power ratings. (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29590~r.44625746http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.45799~r.44625746) By going with the USB standard, I will be able to choose whether to power directly from PC/power adaptor, or a battery pack.(How can you tell that I’m a huge fan of DX. ;-D)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274812",
"author": "antonio",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T16:46:39",
"content": "ok, congratulations.your proyect is creative, i use the toner trasfer method for make PCBs, but i dont know aplicate in a plastic box.regars from mexico.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276362",
"author": "Jordan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T23:26:52",
"content": "“I wonder how much the plastic costs to print a battery pack like that. (really, I have no idea what it costs to run a makerbot)”Same here.Of course, <5 min. of Google can get the answer. As some would say, I RTFM. Here's a link.http://wiki.makerbot.com/faq-frequently-asked-questions#toc10",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.076134
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/06/original-shell-houses-a-game-boy-advance-sp/
|
Original Shell Houses A Game Boy Advance SP
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Nintendo Game Boy Hacks"
] |
[
"advance",
"sp"
] |
[Jackson] decided he wanted to give his original Game Boy a bit more power so
he replace the internals with those from a Game Boy Advance SP
. This keeps the case work to a minimum, as the original was larger than the SP. He kept the buttons, speaker, headphone jack, and power switch but modified the enclosure to use the volume, charger, and battery from the newer hardware. The cartridge connector was relocated to match the slot in the back half of the case, with the color screen being the biggest giveaway that someone’s monkeyed with the device. Not a bad use for a dead Game Boy, as least you’ll be playing this one instead of
dedicating it to virtual storage
.
| 19
| 18
|
[
{
"comment_id": "260136",
"author": "mark",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:41:47",
"content": "Are those tiny black dots on the sides the L and R buttons?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260185",
"author": "LazyMegaMan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:52:05",
"content": "@markLooking at the wiring, I think so. There are 2 wires that go from the R shoulder button on the side of the gameboy to the corresponding top-right point of the SP’s PCB. Closer inspection of the image shows the same thing on the other side of the gameboy, but reversed. The reason behind the reversed wiring is the SP’s PCB is placed upside-down in the gameboy case.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "673723",
"author": "BinarySpyder",
"timestamp": "2012-06-08T03:35:34",
"content": "I wanna return this LazyMegaMan, hes not lazy he gave a really well researched answer. Totally not lazy.",
"parent_id": "260185",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "260251",
"author": "mesoiam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T23:12:37",
"content": "*replaced",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260463",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T23:56:08",
"content": "I don’t get this kind of thing at all.But to each his own.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260493",
"author": "Digital",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T00:03:05",
"content": "I’m just impressed this guy had a gameboy that was broken. I’ve seen those things come back from desert storm still working.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260540",
"author": "Cricri",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T00:11:56",
"content": "I don’t get it either. There seems to be a flood of “hacks” that take something perfectly fine and transform it into something less functional and usable (e.g. the numerous binary clocks, a small GBA with decent shoulder buttons in a bigger case with crappy L and R buttons). IMHO, a hack is supposed to take something somewhat lacking and improve on it, not the other way around. How about mounting an Arduino nano in a server rack?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260883",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T01:44:42",
"content": "They do tend to last, although I thought it was the LCD that gives up the ghost usually.It is a great way to re-purpose a dead one if you have one, and you could also get one of those Shenzen ones with the games built in as well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "262433",
"author": "MS3FGX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T04:45:48",
"content": "Replacing the internal hardware of an obsolete piece of electronics with a slightly less obsolete piece of electronics…I guess as long as he’s happy with it, that’s all that matters.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "262853",
"author": "Zagroseckt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T06:23:58",
"content": "you know i love gb and gba games and i do have an old original GB hanging around here someplace with a screen rot problem…. AND a sidewalk picked GBA SP that works perfectly although it looks like it got ran over by a few bicycles.This project should be a nice adition to my mod colection :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "262939",
"author": "lamer",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T06:54:27",
"content": "yea..im not sure i get the whole replacingthe insides of a gameboy. with the insidesof a… gameboy?but hey. creeds to the birdsnest that willrun mario!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266970",
"author": "Villain",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:06:28",
"content": "Was the gameboy advanced casing messed up?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "270768",
"author": "WZRD",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T04:37:06",
"content": "http://www.geekologie.com/2008/03/gameboy_survives_bombing_still.php",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274821",
"author": "antonio",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T16:50:11",
"content": "exist stupids projects in the web, but in this page all projects are very goods.congratulationsregards from mexico",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "276645",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T00:09:21",
"content": "Recasing GBAs inside DMGs has been done many times before, so this isn’t exactly news. However, I disagree with the statement that a mod such as this is pointless.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "355804",
"author": "Anon",
"timestamp": "2011-03-12T02:39:19",
"content": "Clearly this is brilliance. I have a hand-me-down DMG from my father that survived an (at the time) 6 year olds abuse, including throwing it across my driveway several times when I would die. since then I’ve kept it for the past 19 additional years of my life and it has never stopped working beautifully. when the SP came out (when I was in my early 20s) well.. lets just say I went through 4 of them before digging out my older game boy advance and gaming on. The SP is quite possibly the worst idea game boy ever had, clamshell makes it flimsy. drop it from a height of over 3′ onto concrete and it will shatter. drop a DMG from a height of over 3′ onto concrete and you might lose the link cable port cover. The only reason I am understanding of the DS series is they have touchscreens. I can understand not wanting to crack such a delicate touchscreen.Bottom line is this MOD is sheer brilliance, though I might have tried it with something smaller – say, a GBP.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "523997",
"author": "BlackStealth08",
"timestamp": "2011-12-01T21:32:04",
"content": "I still don’t agree with people who take perfectly fine working video games and turn them into thing they are not made for. I’ve seen so many stupid Guitars made from video games its stupid. This is ok I guess.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "941871",
"author": "Julian",
"timestamp": "2013-01-18T15:38:12",
"content": "It’s actually pretty useful, I would say. For people who make chiptune music this would be invaluable because the most common complaint about using a GBASP for making music is that it is very uncomfortable. The DMG, being the largest gameboy with start and select buttons that can be accessed from both hands, is the most comfortable to work with, but the processor and display suck the devil’s dick. So this is a great mod, actually. And I wish that he’d written a tutorial because a lot of people want to do it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2429022",
"author": "Solomon",
"timestamp": "2015-02-10T16:49:24",
"content": "Older people that like the retro “feel” of the DMG, but want to play GBA games, like Pokemon Ruby & Sapphire. Makes perfect sense to me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.512268
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/06/meter-clock-with-pleasing-design-considerations/
|
Meter Clock With Pleasing Design Considerations
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"clock hacks"
] |
[
"led",
"meter",
"rgb",
"servo",
"wood"
] |
[AndyO] embraced his inner geek by
building this meter clock
. It exhibits a lot of features that you’d want to see in a home-built timepiece, include over-complexity, abundant features, and RGB LEDs. We’re fascinated by the design he put into this. For instance, the two indicator LEDs on the clock face are not poking through the surface, but use brass tubes as light pipes. Also, the three buttons on the top are almost indistinguishable, and have an RGB back light that places a halo around each. The case itself was built by first making a form, then laminating thin sheets of wood (a difficult task due to the tight curves). The needles themselves are not actually meters, like
the clock the inspired the build
, but are attached to servo motors. This all comes together into a fascinating build, and a great writeup.
[Thanks Graham]
| 14
| 14
|
[
{
"comment_id": "259903",
"author": "mess_maker",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:07:04",
"content": "I am impressed by the design. I, for some reason, have been wanting to build clocks and timers and that is the reason I have been learning Atmel AVR’s. This is a cool project that shows off some decent wood working skills, and a clean design. I will have to look a little more into it, but my initial impression is that it is very cool :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259923",
"author": "BlackCow",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:10:22",
"content": "This is a work of art, I love it :-)In b4 people complain about this being a clock project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259957",
"author": "alan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:18:26",
"content": "I would love to see a massive scale of this on a wall. would be quite interesting.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259966",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:20:17",
"content": "Sure, now you guys are just taunting me.Nice build tho (for a clock).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259978",
"author": "mowcius",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:23:57",
"content": "Very nice build. I love it.Shame the grammar isn’t so great in the article.I tried to stay away from comments like this but it seems to be getting more and more common that articles do not appear to be proof read (by someone else – you never notice your own mistakes).Mowcius",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260205",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T23:00:03",
"content": "COOL! A PIC project! :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260761",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T01:15:26",
"content": "I think that’s the most accurate title I’ve ever seen on HAD.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260814",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T01:29:39",
"content": "Clock hacks (45)Beer hacks (13)Priorities: confused.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260864",
"author": "andrew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T01:39:04",
"content": "Nice looking case",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "262674",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T05:40:54",
"content": "Do PICs not have an internal IO pull-up resistor? If so, why did he wire the push buttons to VCC with an external pull down? Seems redundant.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "263338",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T08:39:55",
"content": "@Bill Porterthey are only available on PORTB, and these switches are on PORTC :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "264914",
"author": "Adolf",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T13:31:48",
"content": "clockaday.com",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265035",
"author": "Mike Summers",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T14:00:10",
"content": "Beautiful clock, but I’d really like to see someone build a meter clock with analog rather than digital parts… I fear that’s too old-school though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "302496",
"author": "Lars",
"timestamp": "2011-01-12T15:16:33",
"content": "Thanks for giving me an idea for my next hifi enclosure! :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.460301
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/02/make-your-own-solenoids-then-play-the-xylophone/
|
Make Your Own Solenoids, Then Play The Xylophone
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Microcontrollers",
"Musical Hacks"
] |
[
"mosfet",
"solenoid",
"xylophone"
] |
Learn to manufacture your own solenoids
and then use them to play the xylophone by watching the tutorial video after the break. [Humberto Evans] and the team at Nerd Kits do a great job of not only manufacturing the coils, but the xylophone itself. The bars are machined from some aluminum stock and they take you down the rabbit hole with they why’s and how’s of engineering the keys.
We’re unlikely to replicate this machining process but the solenoids are another story all together. Starting at about 3:30 you can learn about designing, building, and using these little marvels. They’re basically an electromagnetic cuff with a metal slug in the middle. The solenoid seen above uses a body milled from HDPE and wrapped with magnet wire. The slug in the center is steel, with a few rare-earth magnets at the top. When you run current through the coil it repulses the magnets on the slug, witch then strikes the xylophone key. Using a MOSFET and a protection diode, actuating them is as simple as sending a digital high from your microcontroller of choice.
We’ve seen
solenoids used to play a vibrophone
before, but those were commercial units. Making your own hardware is far more hardcore.
| 25
| 24
|
[
{
"comment_id": "234766",
"author": "mp",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T20:13:26",
"content": "Which witch? The they? Get an editor.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234785",
"author": "Avery",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T20:22:19",
"content": "Nice project!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234862",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T20:47:35",
"content": "Yeah it’s pretty embarrassing how bad some of the writers’ grammar is.That said, cool link. That would be a neat job.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234887",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T20:54:16",
"content": "it’s good that they went to basics on this but i think it would sound louder if they just used regular solenoidsthey’re also stiking the bar with a flat surface, maybe they could put a little round hard rubber piece over the magnet+1 for theory of sound, that is the best book ever",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234942",
"author": "svofski",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T21:10:13",
"content": "Not bad but the video could be shorter by approximately 12 minutes 30 seconds.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "235181",
"author": "ColinB",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T22:16:58",
"content": "The power supply circuit is interesting too. Since firing solenoids draw a ton of current causing constant voltage spikes/drops, they use a diode+capacitor before the 9 V -> 5 V regulator. However, I think the calculation of 15 ms power reserve are not correct since it doesn’t account for the ~1 V voltage drop across the diode. It’s interesting that they used LEDs as flyback diodes across the MOSFETs driving the solenoids.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "235529",
"author": "David S",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T22:40:05",
"content": "I really like how the go through all the details… even though it is a lot of details.I think it’s interesting that some notes have a much fuller sound to them and some seem to be severely damped – are the screws too tight or is it something else?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "236732",
"author": "Adrian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T01:01:07",
"content": "@David S: My guess is that the microphone used in the recording is coloring the sound; the mids sound much better than the highs do.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "237126",
"author": "Joe Bonasses",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T02:46:21",
"content": "There’s too much damping of the bars, especially given the limited momentum of the solenoid slug. I would be inclined to have the bar cantilevered with only one support, like a tine in an old electric piano. The solenoid design is really creative, though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "237653",
"author": "DroopieDog",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T05:19:39",
"content": "I used to work in a company that makes digital looms that copy patterns from a 486 computer, by using some solenoids parts that were just cut coils from relays to move individual treads up/down. The relay was put in a vice and then cut in 2 parts with a metal saw. Since then I’ve been playing with such coils at home also. It’s so practical since the coils were already rated to certain voltage, so I know what I’m getting into…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "238747",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T10:27:10",
"content": "That really is quite cool.The kind of thing that makes you want to think up applications, and why this site is dear to me.Yeah I said it, ya big lugs…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "239446",
"author": "Philippe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T14:23:13",
"content": "Nice job.BTW, a xylophone is made of wood (Greek ξύλον – xylon = wood). This would be a vibraphone.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3331433",
"author": "William DeRieux",
"timestamp": "2016-12-24T10:11:56",
"content": "whether it is a xylophone/vibraphone doesn’t change the physics / concepts depicted in the video — the only difference would be the way the sound.",
"parent_id": "239446",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "240058",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T18:07:02",
"content": "Great video. I agree with Joe.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240460",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T20:31:35",
"content": "What exactly *is* electrical current, anyhow?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240539",
"author": "mADmAX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T20:47:12",
"content": "It’s neither a xylophone or a vibraphone.It’s a glockenspiel.Philippe is correct that a xylophone has wooden bars. However, a vibraphone has a resonating tube for each bar and a rotating valve that produces a tremolo or vibrato effect, hence the name vibraphone. Usually with a pedal to allow the damper to move away from the bar which lets the notes ring much like a sustain pedal on a piano.Actually, the effect produced on a vibraphone is not vibrato at all (gradual variation in pitch) but a much less used definition of tremolo. This is usually described as a rapid repetition of the same note but can be used to describe amplitude as in this case.[/pedantic_nitpicking]",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240680",
"author": "Abon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T21:29:40",
"content": "The rate of flow of charge, measured in coulombs per second.I sense that this is not the answer you were looking for however…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241458",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:44:19",
"content": "So, why don’t we just say “Amperes” then?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241523",
"author": "Abon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:01:15",
"content": "Because its the unit, not the name of the quantity?It would be like calling acceleration, “Meters per second per second”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "244597",
"author": "slowbro",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T11:26:39",
"content": "http://hackaday.com/2010/09/05/self-playing-bayan-built-nearly-22-years-ago/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246779",
"author": "synth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T19:38:18",
"content": "yeah, english@HAD can be pretty shoddy, and szczys is probably the worst offender.i guess this is OK [it is a hacking site], but i wonder about the ratio of laziness to incompetence that accounts for such errors…having poor mastery of language is a little sad. ;[",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "355242",
"author": "ahull",
"timestamp": "2011-03-11T14:33:20",
"content": "Its a doorbell, OK, its a fancy, computer controlled doorbell, but its still a doorbell.Having said that, its a well executed, and well explained doorbell.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doorbell",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "431799",
"author": "Vestal watches",
"timestamp": "2011-08-10T11:25:56",
"content": "Ahull – so what, let it be a doorbell :)Anyway, interesting article, good read!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "434534",
"author": "Anwaltsbüro Luzern",
"timestamp": "2011-08-14T17:18:17",
"content": "Interesting article. And, yes ahull let it be a doorbell :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "632562",
"author": "Galane",
"timestamp": "2012-04-19T06:27:23",
"content": "Some of the notes are too quiet and flat.The solenoids would hit harder if the magnets were on non-ferrous slugs which are fighting the repulsion between the coil fields and the magnets.It’s a neat project but it’s in the category of reinventing not just the wheel but the entire wagon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.845509
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/02/heater-for-bending-acrylic/
|
Heater For Bending Acrylic
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Tool Hacks"
] |
[
"acrylic",
"bend",
"lamp",
"oven"
] |
We like using acrylic in our projects but there are a couple of tricky techniques, particularly getting clean cuts for glued edges and bending the material into curves. [Giorgos Lazaridis] has a great solution to the latter,
a dedicated acrylic heater
. Instead of using an oven to warm the material for bending he’s using localized heat produced by a high-powered lamp pulled from an old laser printer. The next part of his solution is to keep the heated area of the acrylic as small as possible. This was achieved by creating heat sinks on either side of the bulb. The metal bars seen above have water running through them to help isolate the softening of the material to a narrow strip. See how well this system works in the video after the break.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmYRmPYFovc&w=470]
| 22
| 20
|
[
{
"comment_id": "234302",
"author": "ponja",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T18:52:53",
"content": "Sooo hot.Liked it thanks.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234451",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T19:11:08",
"content": "wow … you can bend it without the bubbling effect of using a torch or overdoing a heatgun!very nice",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234455",
"author": "xeracy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T19:12:25",
"content": "just needs a 90 degree jig for clean, straight edged bends.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234480",
"author": "lee",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T19:16:25",
"content": "man… I was trying to build one to bend pieces to act as a guard against my new puppys teeth and the door. He was chewing the door to the kitchen we would put him in when we would leave the house. I needed to put a 2 inch bend in a 3 foot piece. Maybe I can use multiple bulbs and scale this design up",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234517",
"author": "Robert",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T19:23:59",
"content": "My dad used to form acrylic 20 – 30 years ago. He used nichrome heating elements (probably scrounged out of a dryer) surrounded by asbestos cement board. Asbestos cement board is probably a little too hard to come by and I cant reccomend cutting it without serious personal protecive gear. But as I recall timimg was everything, you overheat it and it would bubble or even burn with that setup.For some large radius curves he built a form and used gas burners to create an oven of sorts.A recent article in Rod & Custom magazine showed how to do bubble tops for custom cars as was popular in the 60’s. Check it out on this link –http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/1101rc_star_kustom_shop_bubbletop_fabrication/index.htmlOverall great approach. I especially like the water cooled heat sinks, excellent way to control the heat.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234531",
"author": "M4D",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T19:25:03",
"content": "sweeeet !",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234544",
"author": "raged",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T19:27:41",
"content": "very impressive! Works exactly how it should!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234633",
"author": "steve",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T19:46:55",
"content": "i like how he cools the bars with water. it’s a great way to get a clean bend!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "235037",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T21:35:23",
"content": "You don’t actually need water-cooling for this. You can very effectively bend acrylic with the quartz heating element from a space heater and a sliding sheet-metal shutter on top of it to reduce the heated area. You want to only heat the material up enough to just barely reach the plastic point, and if you get it that hot in the center the metal shields will keep the rest cool enough to not deform.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "235642",
"author": "Giorgos Lazaridis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T23:03:28",
"content": "macw, the very first design was like this (check the worklog in the site), but had some problems with overheating, and also was completely inefficient. As a matter of fact, the design that i have right now can operate without water cooling for about 7 to 8 minutes before the bars get hot. With air cooling it could run more, enough to make 3 plastics. And if you polish the bars, can further increase it. The design you describe will work as well, but after some time (depending on how good the design is) it will overheat, unless you have a means of dissipating the energy losses.And after all, without water cooling it would not have fun building it, would it? ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1279725",
"author": "rt",
"timestamp": "2014-03-18T22:40:22",
"content": "Where can I go to see your newest bending tables My master from your follower",
"parent_id": "235642",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "236571",
"author": "Buzzles",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T00:22:09",
"content": "It’s a nice bit of DIY, but that design is eons old.I used something nearly identical back in the late 1990’s at secondary school in the UK (age 11 to 16), and the bit of kit I was using was definitly from the 80’s, if not the 70’s (not unexpected due to age of school buildings). The element was most definitely something akin to what you’d find in a space heater.I recall it had that lovely finish on the tool that you get on old kit which is basically cast metal that’s been painted. Lots of depth.As for the acrylic, best to heat it and flex it with the protective covering on, because that bubbles just before the acrylic does. Although once it bubbles it’s royal PITA to remove all the covering so you’ve got a narrow window.Also he needs to make some forming molds.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "237348",
"author": "ChrisManClay",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T03:55:30",
"content": "Bravo Giorgo!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "237501",
"author": "Don",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T04:38:12",
"content": "Nice. Very nice!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "237563",
"author": "Arutan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T04:59:25",
"content": "Very very good project !Very instructive and interesting to follow !I wish I followed in live !",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "238534",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T09:25:01",
"content": "ever hear of a Strip Heater?http://www.technologystudent.com/joints/desk17.htm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "238763",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T10:30:09",
"content": "Looks like one could re-purpose some heat sinks for the side-bars too.Yeah i like the water cooling. It’s…cool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "239115",
"author": "hola_jerzy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T12:42:10",
"content": "Beautiful, simple and efficient clean design. I have been looking for a way to bend acrylic for custom built computers and models that reduced warpage and bubbling. Thank you for the idea.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241495",
"author": "DeadlyDad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:54:53",
"content": "Nice! I’ll pass this on to a friend who uses acrylic for his laser engraving business.Three things that I’d do, though:1. Build two heaters/coolers (not permanently attached), so the acrylic can be sandwiched between them and both sides heated at once.2. Permit the cooling rails to move apart, and have the heating section be made up of short segments that can pivot (connected zig-zag fashion?), so that the user can select the width of the heated area. Perhaps nichrome wire that runs past pins connected to alternating cooling racks? It would be spooled underneath the rig, and powered from the first and last pins, that only the desired length would be heated. (Would that work?)3. Perhaps have the cooling rails clamp the acrylic, and be hinged, with springs, so that, as the acrylic softens, the springs automatically bend it to the desired angle, set with stops.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1279721",
"author": "rt",
"timestamp": "2014-03-18T22:37:46",
"content": "Man that’s good ;)",
"parent_id": "241495",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "1279708",
"author": "rt",
"timestamp": "2014-03-18T22:31:57",
"content": "Can you use any other type of light bulbs?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1279716",
"author": "rt",
"timestamp": "2014-03-18T22:36:26",
"content": "Is nichrome less expensive on the electricity bill than light bulbs. And if so what type of light bulbs should I use? Incandescent, halogen, etc.., / ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.403332
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/02/steam-powered-rickrolling/
|
Steam-powered Rickrolling
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"digital audio hacks"
] |
[
"record player",
"rickroll",
"steam punk",
"steam-powered",
"turntable"
] |
This is
a steam-powered record player
; awesome. But wait, that’s not all. Watch the video after the break for about two and a half minutes and you’ll realize that it’s also
a Rickroll
. No, you’re not getting baited into clicking through to Rick Astley’s music video, the LP that’s playing on the turntable is a copy of “Never Gonna Give You Up”; all kinds of awesome.
This all started with a steam engine machined from a stainless steel bolt and a brass cylinder. It was tested using compressed air before
building the boiler
. But what’s a steam engine without a purpose? The problem with using a steam engine as a turntable motor is speed control. This is where we move to modern technology, using an Arduino to measure the RPM and adjust the steam engine using a servo motor.
The builder makes a comment that this sounds terrible, but considering it’s steam-powered we think it sounds just fine.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AuWcU3EDw94&w=470]
[Thanks Simon and Fred]
| 28
| 28
|
[
{
"comment_id": "233991",
"author": "Necromant",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T17:47:38",
"content": "Steampunk… That’s back to the 80s… 1880s… Anyway, good work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234069",
"author": "guffguff",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T18:02:50",
"content": "Should have used a centrifugal style braking system, and had the whole thing mechanical!Good build though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234075",
"author": "kyle90",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T18:04:26",
"content": "Sounds like it could benefit from a little more speed control – a nice big flywheel, perhaps.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234092",
"author": "Gregory Strike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T18:10:02",
"content": "LOL, a steam-powered record player! That’s just awesome!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234136",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T18:21:28",
"content": "Top work! That’s a really clean build.There’s a guy around here who tours the classic car shows with a steam powered gramophone too. I think the steam vent is coaxial with the horn on his. Wish I’d got a photo of it now.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hgBUkDEcNw",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234212",
"author": "NatureTM",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T18:33:44",
"content": "First thing I would do is play my vinyl copy of “Harder Better Faster Stronger.” Perfect song for steam powered turntables.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234530",
"author": "svofski",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T19:24:42",
"content": "When it begins playing, it’s surreal. Good wacky stuff.BTW, if you could find some gramophone (spelling? 78rpm anyway) discs, you could make it sound much louder and better — they have deep grooves, designed to be be played back without amplification.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234575",
"author": "tsherry",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T19:33:45",
"content": "Cool, but I wouldn’t want that heat + humidity near my records.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234598",
"author": "joe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T19:38:54",
"content": "Neat idea. I would’ve preferred a mechanical governor though. and they chose a good song to demo it on. It was bad enough that you hardly noticed the whine and other noise from the engine!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234810",
"author": "ccl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T20:29:45",
"content": "Maybe use a turbine rather than a piston? And use pressure regulator to regulate the speed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234903",
"author": "Aero",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T20:57:56",
"content": "Had to resort to an arduino rather than a governor? Fail",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234911",
"author": "nick",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T21:04:17",
"content": "I also would suggest a turbine. A piston engine is very non-constant in terms of velocity. Every stroke introduces 4 ramping sections. Seehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piston_motion_equations#Example_graph_of_piston_motion. That’s the warbling you hear from the record. Sound recorded on vinyl is pretty sensitive to velocity variation.Neat build.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "235009",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T21:27:00",
"content": "@Aero why do you think it made it on here?I’d rather like to see the steam engine be used to crank up a spring system just as wind-up gramophones do.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "235023",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T21:29:37",
"content": "yeah, one of the spinning-ball governors would be perfect for something like this and every steam locomotive has one of those on top. I dunno how he overlooked that.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "235056",
"author": "Ross Barnes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T21:43:22",
"content": "A very tidy unit and well made. Just love the marrying of old and new technology. It opens up a world of lateral thinking.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "235062",
"author": "ferdi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T21:44:59",
"content": "nice bild but why that fuckking song i hate it but i love steampunk lp playeri must be think to bioshok that game when i see this",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "235150",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T22:08:16",
"content": "Much bigger flywheel, without listening for sure. 3 or more pistons yeah! And of course a flying governor. Arduino schemeeno. 78’s would more suited to the vibe. Sorry Daft Punk. Anyone want to hack up a steam powered cassette jam box?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "236229",
"author": "Aero",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T23:41:58",
"content": "Erik,I have to say, its a really great looking project, but I’d love to have seen it be completely mechanical.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "236344",
"author": "MS3FGX",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T23:56:31",
"content": "Incredible execution, he is clearly very skilled and has an excellent eye for detail.Unfortunately, it appears that the concept itself is flawed, as the piston just can’t get the record spinning at the proper speed. Also, like previous commenters, I don’t get why he would use an Arduino and servo rather than the centrifugal governor which has been standard hardware on steam engines since more or less their inception.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "237219",
"author": "Everett",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T03:12:02",
"content": "Steam powered MP3 player anyone? Use a steam powered HD…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "237662",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T05:23:31",
"content": "Would the speed be more steady if the steam engine was running a flywheel, and the electronics governed the speed of the turntable with a clutch?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "237875",
"author": "RBRat3",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T05:56:07",
"content": "This needs a nice size flywheel and an tad bigger cylinder, might calm the erratic speed jumps.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "238630",
"author": "Harvie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T09:52:55",
"content": "OMG have you buyed that LP in 80s because you liked the music? :-D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "239500",
"author": "Hacksaw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T14:42:00",
"content": "I don’t see what all of you arduino haters have to complain about.Yes he could have used a mechanical governor but he could have used a gassifier running on dried chicken shit also and I don’t see any of you complaining about that! Now for the fun one most MP3 players are coal powered so there is no reason to attach one to a steam engine (actually I know of one city at least where the MP3 players are steam powered)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240986",
"author": "Khordas",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T22:09:45",
"content": "This is one of the reasons why some of the historical engine gramaphones used stirling engines. Much more constant torque, and better speed control. I wish the museum of retro technology was still up and running. They had lots of good pictures of such things.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241476",
"author": "governator",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:50:30",
"content": "khordas, did you meanhttp://www.aqpl43.dsl.pipex.com/MUSEUM/COMMS/hotairgramophone/hotairgramophone.htm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "245148",
"author": "June",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T12:44:55",
"content": "Remind sme of my steam powered model boat I had as a Kid. What will we have next ? Steam powered food processor, vaccuum machine home tools like saws drills etc…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "245189",
"author": "Mr.Nobody",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T12:49:43",
"content": "A sensible steampunk-wise improvement would be to replace the arduino speed control with a mechanical device likehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Governor_%28device%29",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.573912
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/01/j1-a-small-fast-cpu-core-for-fpga/
|
J1: A Small, Fast, CPU Core For FPGA
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"cpu",
"forth",
"fpga",
"j1",
"verilog",
"von neumann"
] |
[James Bowman] of the Willow Garage published a paper on his
J1 CPU core for field-programmable gate arrays
. This was originally developed and used for the Ethernet cameras on the PR2 (you know,
that incredibly expensive beer delivery system?
) robot. It uses a 16-bit
von Neumann architecture
and lacks several processor features you’d expect a CPU to have such as interrupts, multiply and divide, a condition register, and a carry flag. None-the-less, its compact at just 200 lines of Verilog and it can run at 80 MHz. [James] compares the J1 to three different FPGA CPU Cores commonly used and discusses how the system is built in his 4-page paper that has the details you’re interested in but won’t take all day to dig through.
| 25
| 24
|
[
{
"comment_id": "228696",
"author": "alan turing's dog",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T21:24:25",
"content": "A forth machine. It’s been done a few times, but this guy’s work is excellent. Nice paper and writeup. If you want to see other versions of this (complete with schematics) you can look athttp://www.holmea.demon.co.uk/Mk1/Schematics.htmand better yet:http://www.jwdt.com/~paysan/b16.htmlA forth processor is basically the “hello, world!” of the FPGA hobbyist. As I understand it, a certain HAD reader has some expertise on these matters.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "229040",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T22:24:07",
"content": "Very nice write up. You really can’t argue with that code density either.I never saw the appeal of stack machines unless you happen to have some sort of forth fetish, but the results certainly look impressive. I wonder how big it is when mapped onto the FPGA.All it needs now is for someone to do a competent C to forth compiler. :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "229411",
"author": "killer",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T23:21:35",
"content": "What prosser did u use for the TYL",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230194",
"author": "Pragma",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T02:26:52",
"content": "This would certainly come in handy if you needed a general-purpose CPU in an already well-purposed FPGA.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230388",
"author": "Adrian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T03:36:04",
"content": "Microblaze or an equivalent is your best bet if you want an actual general-purpose CPU in an FPGA. You get a compiler, industry support, etc. This is a processor for when you need a specific purpose.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230623",
"author": "RadBrad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T04:32:01",
"content": "I loaded this into a Spartan-3 with a few mods for testing and it worked well.Brad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230816",
"author": "Samuel A. Falvo II",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T05:22:19",
"content": "People here smack-talk about “Forth Fetishes,” and these CPUs being only good for “specific purposes.” These people are woefully ignorant and are the primary reason why stack architectures aren’t as popular as they really should be — such people hold influential positions in the market, when they really should be sent back to school.They look to more complex architectures with sheer awe and admiration, thinking that more complex is obviously always better, because, well, it’s more complex, you see? Obviously, SOMETHING (besides guaranteed employment of more and more engineers) has to be good about these architectures, right?Stack CPUs are every bit as fast as RISC chips of considerably greater gate density. Comparing the J1 against a MIPS, you will find they retire about the same dynamic mix of instructions at the same rates, give or take some reasonable epsilon. That’s because, in any Von Neumann architecture, regardless of instruction set, there is only so many ways to accomplish some goal (hence why software patents are evil, but I digress heavily here). So, clearly, your preconceived notions of what is special- versus general-purpose are horridly off.I’ve never, *EVER*, met a stack CPU that wasn’t general purpose enough to put an 80486 to shame with only the tiniest fraction of assembly instructions. Sure, such CPUs won’t run C apps as fast, but that’s OK. Remember the hoopla when RISC vendors announced quite proudly that their chips were “optimized for C”? I do.So, why aren’t stack CPUs more popular? Because people don’t want to grok Forth or Lisp (they’re ostensibly too “weird” for them; to these, I claim, you’re not programmers. A real programmer can code in ANY language, not just their favorite pet), both of which compile nicely to stack CPUs. They prefer the likes of C, which does NOT compile competently well to efficient RPN. Random-access to parameters is preferred on such architectures, and not just during heavy math either. Thus, the CPUs need registers, which widens instructions, which means you need address decoding on the register banks, which slows the chip down due to propagation delay, which means you need pipelining to hide latency and restore average throughput (note: not guaranteed throughput), which means you need better branch scheduling and fewer branches, which means fewer subroutines, which means greater in-lining to keep those pipes filled, because subroutine overhead often costs more than a well-factored subroutine to begin with, . . . all of this adds up to WAY more complex ways of making a chip faster (caches versus instruction packets, superscalar execution units versus just putting multiple cores on a single die, etc.).And don’t get me started on power draw.So, kindly, don’t talk to us about fetishes when you carry a full domination dungeon in every computer you own.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230830",
"author": "Jan Gray",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T05:28:08",
"content": "Very nice work.Your readers might also be interested in this 200 line minimalist RISC SoC (annotated Verilog)http://www.fpgacpu.org/papers/soc-gr0040-paper.pdf.Here’s an older one written up in Circuit Cellar:http://www.fpgacpu.org/xsoc/cc.htmlHere’s a nice minimal one from Chuck Thacker:http://www.bottomup.co.nz/mirror/Thacker-A_Tiny_Computer-3.pdfHappy hacking!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232209",
"author": "Ryan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T10:55:53",
"content": "SoC systems are becoming more well suited towards every application.It might just be my signal processing background, but von Neumann architecture, ewww. What happened to Harvard?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232330",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T11:28:28",
"content": "Harvard architecture doesn’t work so well with C compilers. And having two address spaces often translates to two RAMs in an FPGA which can be a issue when you only want something small. Restricting look up tables to data space can be a pain too.If you’re doing signal processing in an FPGA, you want to be parallelizing as much as possible and avoiding a CPU all together.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "233218",
"author": "js",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T14:48:45",
"content": "@Samuel A. Falvo II+1",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "233289",
"author": "sgf",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T15:06:22",
"content": "Samuel A. Falvo II:Saying that stack processors aren’t popular because because people don’t want to use Forth or Lisp might be in some sense true, but it’s missing the point. People don’t want their choice of language restricted by the architecture they’re using.C is a grotty language to start with if you want to perform optimising compilation to pretty much any architecture, but register-based architectures cope fairly well. They also cope fairly decently compiling a lot of other (much more abstract) languages. Having your architecture strait-jacket your development process is a problem.Moreover, having a register set allows way more flexible access patterns. Not all algorithms map down to nice RPN expressions. Not many people love the x87 instruction set. Furthermore, if all you’ve got is a stack, as soon as you go outside of it, all you’ve got is main memory, and things get very expensive.Claiming that all the baggage of superscalar execution is the fault of having registers is more than a little disingenuous. Plenty of it is there to just get more parallelism, not to make up for the weaknesses of registers. I am rather intrigued how you’d suggest to build a superscalar architecture that can process a stream of stack instructions efficiently.I don’t think modern general-purpose CPUs, with their power-hungry OoO superscalar execution, deep pipelines, complex branch prediction, etc. are a panacea, and indeed I believe they are the wrong answer to many problems. However, I think stack machines are the wrong answer to many more.For this kind of application, though, they’re pretty cool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3160218",
"author": "Wayne Morellini",
"timestamp": "2016-08-27T16:31:37",
"content": "Better late than never.So, on topic, something small that can fit in FPGA’s, as a starting point to expand upon. The size helps. So, Samuel is also a standup guy.Now, let’s put it this way, as far as actual chips go. 4,000 transistors for a forth processor, 10k transistors for a bigger one. But let’s talk about a much more capable one, 100k transistors, maybe with some more memory on top, maybe not. Now compare to a more modern Intel CPU with over a 1000 instructions (or an Arm with over 1000 instructions for that matter). So how many more can you fit in an array. Now realise that current forth chip design has gone through a phase of lowest energy consumption per cycle processor in the world, but also capable of highest cycles (but not current focus, so that claim is uncertain). So, at the reduced energy you can pack incredible amounts of general purpose processing power per area, particularly because of the low heat. What matters in programming is results, and if a reverse Polish notation twin stack machine delivers the highest performance, then you should program it.Now, the darker side. The current genre of this, is exotic, to say the least, and not that functional, requiring work to get highest end results. This is not like normal forth, but more bare bones embedded hardware programming with hardware optimised for size/performance, not necessarily for ease. This is OK, for large volume program once products, as many smaller things can be (the current batch are meant to compete with the smallest programmable hardware, glue logic, hence features do not need to be as expansive as a desktop PC).However, the lighter side. I have desired to design a much smaller comprehensive microprocessor architecture optimised for performance and low energy per cycle. A higher end processor is often implemented with features requiring lots of transistors (the sub systems to boost performance in many high end architectures also requiring a lot of space in the implementation of instruction set handling, the instruction set design also being a limiting factor on performance, more on this shortly). My architecture redesigns these systems to be smaller, and answers the register question. The simpler instruction set design and handling of forth processors not only reduce transistor counts and energy usage, but open opportunity to increase speed as closer to the highest the chip making process can go (which maybe 10x faster, though leakage would be modifying this). Chip making process design rules include wider safety margins to prevent issues, but simpler forth designs allow hand made designs and optimisations, that can be replicated in arrays.I’m not really aiming for Forth but basing it off of Forth’s efficiencies. So, 100k transistors is what I’m aiming for, but as close to 10k or less for the actual processor (remember, this is a multiple component design). The issue is as usual, how much extra memory per core and where, to maximise the potential for the application (which general purpose changes, making this difficult). However, as the group is involved with actually making chips, which is extremely expensive, I turned my attention to figuring out a much better solution proposal than FPGA that can solve this. The level of functionality aimed for is to be able to run something competitive with Linux at least. I am also aiming at a much cheaper and much higher performance process to make the chips. To be used as a general purpose product and other. Performance estimates per unit of area (hopes at this time) are at least 10x-100x. Plus other metrics. However, if I do have dementia, I don’t know if it will ever be completed. But despite length of time, even if function based quantum/optical computing becomes a reality, I see this architecture at its core, from nearer the beginning, as a procedural management processor design, one instruction after another that will still be used with newer types of computing.I can say, from my estimations, that we are being defrauded in the industry that much better can be done. This is a thirty year effort to understand the ubiquitous optimisation of performance.",
"parent_id": "233289",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "233709",
"author": "Chris",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T16:40:27",
"content": "Stack-based CPUs are everywhere, especially if you also include virtual CPUs. If you’ve programmed in Java, or any .NET language, you’ve had your code translated to a stack-based intermediate language.But coding *directly* in a stack based language by choice when there are alternatives available, is accurately described either as a fetish akin to masochism, or simple elitism.It’s not a matter of whether people “grok” or understand it, as Forth is actually very easy to understand. It’s just an unnatural and inefficient way of writing code.So I will never code in Forth unless absolutely necessary. I don’t care what kind of “domination dungeon” might be in my CPU. It can play whatever kinky superscalar games it wants behind the scenes, as long as it does what I need. At least I’m not spending the day needlessly flagellating myself!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234314",
"author": "Adrian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T18:54:43",
"content": "@Samuel A. Falvo II: You are right, everyone else is not only wrong, but stupid too, and only you know the secret that can save us from inefficient code and slow development time. Thanks, Samuel A. Falvo II!! My eyes are now opened to the truth, and I can begin fetishiz . . . I mean, appreciating a better way of living.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "235067",
"author": "suarezvictor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T21:45:44",
"content": "What about Navré soft core? 900 line source, but AVR compatible so a standard C compiler like gcc can be used.Also ~80Mhz and ~80 MIPShttp://opencores.org/project,navre",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "236776",
"author": "alan turing's dog",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T01:16:06",
"content": "@nes – “Harvard architecture doesn’t work so well with C compilers.”So many misconceptions, so little time.@Salvo-I see you’ve been drinking the kool-aid for a while now. As rants go, I give it 3 out of 10 stars, a couple of dups with additions and a pop.Excellent, even if your roots are showing.In the meantime, your “No true programmer” argument/definition is daft… my definition of true programmer includes being able to actually start working on the problem, without having to code up the routines for the libraries needed to provide the scaffolding to get started. And I say this as a forth fan – forth was OO long before it became mainstream.@sgf – “Having your architecture strait-jacket your development process is a problem.”Only for a sufficiently small mind. Unless you’re doing floating point matrices on relay logic, or using dot Net libraries, this hasn’t really been applicable to any processor for a decade or two.There is no spoon.Chuck Moore stole it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "237088",
"author": "Greycode",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T02:36:20",
"content": "Can you tell us exactly how many wedgies you had when you were in school Samuel A. Falvo II?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "237113",
"author": "Greycode",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T02:43:40",
"content": "And sorry to double post this,@ Samuel A. Falvo II, WHY, why, why, why, why, why, are you still using 80486 chipset computers? 1989 called, and they want that pocket protector back.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "238171",
"author": "cantido",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T07:34:50",
"content": "@Samuel A. Falvo IIYou should take up Ruby or something..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "238635",
"author": "sgf",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T09:53:53",
"content": "@turing’s dog‘@sgf – “Having your architecture strait-jacket your development process is a problem.”Only for a sufficiently small mind. Unless you’re doing floating point matrices on relay logic, or using dot Net libraries, this hasn’t really been applicable to any processor for a decade or two.’The reason that architecture rarely strait-jackets development processes nowadays is because the architectures and tools which don’t limit you as much are the ones which win out. Which is why stack-based CPUs aren’t the common thing. Which, er, was my point.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "238946",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T11:38:13",
"content": "@turing’s dog: I think the C on Harvard was a fair point. Care to elaborate on my misconceptions?C works very well for programming PDP11’s, but I think as soon as you break apart the flat memory model compromises are required. I formed my opinion having worked on backends for lcc and sdcc. I do like the language though.Back on topic; stack machines are not a panacea for efficient software (all you’re doing is limiting the data to which you have immediate access without penalty and forcing the programmer to deal with it) and don’t normally map to FPGA all that well (where a RAM costs the same as a stack), but this one and its applications have turned out very respectable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "239702",
"author": "ENKI-][",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T16:04:22",
"content": "A nice FORTH implementation in 200 lines of verilog seems promising (though 200 lines of VHDL would be more impressive). Being one of the aforementioned ‘forth fetishists’ (I’ve got a kink for all sorts of languages, and I’ve been waiting for someone to try to implement a dedicated prolog machine), this excites me quite a bit.By the by, as any compiler course should teach you, it’s trivial to compile C down to a forthlike. Whether or not your C code runs slower when compiled into a stack language is a matter of the compiler and of your C code. If you are worried that your code, when automatically translated, will be slow, don’t use an automatic translator.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "360068",
"author": "AndreaS",
"timestamp": "2011-03-16T17:23:20",
"content": "There is a Prolog to Forth compiler developed by Odette in the eighties for NASA and used for embedded expert systems … very hard to find but someone still has a copy of the Journal of Forth Applications and Research vol. 4 to scan.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "396407",
"author": "Munch",
"timestamp": "2011-05-20T18:10:34",
"content": "Actually, I know Samuel Falvo personally. He writes Python, Ruby, and Java code daily, and some years ago, was hacking on OS kernels. I think you under-estimate his abilities and knowledge. Ignore the rant, and read the message instead.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.635679
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/01/you-know-that-they-say-about-guys-with-big-lenses/
|
You Know That They Say About Guys With Big Lenses?
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"digital cameras hacks"
] |
[
"baffle",
"flare",
"lens",
"stippling"
] |
[Tony Lovell] and [dkpeterborough]
built a sizable camera lens
using optics from a flight simulator projector. What they ended up with is a 900mm lens that can make a beautiful photo of the moon, or capture distant landscapes in great detail. The body of the lens was designed in CAD and sent off for fabrication out of aluminum, as seen above. The concentric baffles help to prevent lens flare but it can’t be used in its bare-aluminum condition. The internals were coated using a stippling finish that leaves a sandy texture. That was covered with matte black barbecue paint, doing a great job of preventing optical interference, and the outside received a glossy white coat. Finished weight: 59 pounds, but once you see the pictures you’ll agree it’s worth lugging the bulky instrument around to grab that killer shot.
[via
Make
]
| 35
| 35
|
[
{
"comment_id": "228367",
"author": "walt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T20:18:38",
"content": "ummm they have small … eyes?1st!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228404",
"author": "CGross",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T20:25:26",
"content": "Isn’t this like, 3 weeks old now?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228481",
"author": "24601",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T20:40:37",
"content": "@CGross Who cares? I hadn’t seen it before, so I’m glad HAD posted it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228494",
"author": "darus67",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T20:43:35",
"content": "I have lens envy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228564",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T20:58:11",
"content": "XD its a great DIY lensit does show distortion and probably has a ton of CA but for half the price of a 900mm pro lens so good job XD@darus67if you like big lenses check out the Sigma 200-500mm F2.8 APO EX DG",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228662",
"author": "Jordan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T21:18:55",
"content": "Now combine with a LensBaby….epic!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228676",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T21:21:12",
"content": "Far cheaper to buy a Dobsonian Telescope from Orion Scopes.Wow that is a crapload of money spent for low quality imaging.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228766",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T21:37:26",
"content": "@fartfaceyeah i worked with “digiscoping” before … getting a good telescope can make great quality photosthe nikon FSA-L1 is a great attachment for doing this",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228768",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T21:38:14",
"content": "I’m a bit underwhelmed by the results, but he can always re-purpose it as a projector I guess.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228857",
"author": "medix",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T21:57:21",
"content": "@BiOzZ: I’ve been eying that lens for quite some time. Would be a much-needed improvement over my Sigma 70 – 300.@fartface: My thoughts exactly.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228998",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T22:19:28",
"content": "@medixfor sports photography i use the sigma 300-800 (on my D300s its more of an 500-1100 ish and thats the body i use most with it)it works great but the more you zoom the longer the exposure … the 2.8 across 500-800 would be godlike but wayyy beyond my budget",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "229180",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T22:53:12",
"content": "Nice build – but pretty mediocre optical results. And 59 pounds – youch!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "229542",
"author": "rickroll",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T00:08:28",
"content": "Obviously a versatile walk around lens.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "229598",
"author": "scrappylaptop",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T00:25:46",
"content": "I’m guessing that like the “projector lens telescopes” of the past this one will suffer a bit in that the lens was not made to focus at infinity.That said, I’d do the same exact thing if I had such a chunk of precisely ground glass. Also, regarding the suggestion to go buy an Orion dob, that’s a newt. Great for DSO’s. Not so great for other stuff due to coma and diffraction from the secondary. And they’d still need to shell out the dough to mount the DSLR.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "229825",
"author": "Concino",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T01:07:42",
"content": "Tons of CA, hence the pictures converted to B/W :-)Great hack but there is almost no practical use, It would be very difficult to sell these photos for example due to all that CA.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230113",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T02:01:03",
"content": "Yeah, I’m gonna go with the “He should have used a telescope.” I have an 8″ Dobsonia I got for $329 and the moon is much clearer and more impressive than that picture.Unforunately, Orion didn’t design the Dob for mounting a camera (they tell me the focal length is wrong. I may try anyway), but they also sell Optical Tube Assemblies that size that *can* use a camera for around $400 I think, which is how much this guy spent. The telescopes have excellent optical clarity – much better than what we’re seeing here.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230342",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T03:19:25",
"content": "Grr, I meant Dobsonian*",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230398",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T03:38:08",
"content": "why does every picture of the moon have to be B/W?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230403",
"author": "Dustin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T03:42:31",
"content": "Correction:You know “WHAT” they say about guys with big lenses?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230421",
"author": "loans",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T03:49:54",
"content": "@Concinohe mounted it to a medium format film body, the photos aren’t -converted- to black and white.It’s an interesting build, though in the posts they hit upon why extreme focal lengths are difficult and of somewhat limited utility: atmospherics making for hazy (or worse, half hazy and half clear) photos. The size certainly rules out wildlife photography…I’m also curious what happens to out-of-focus highlights with a lens design like this, using (as I interpreted the writing) more or less completely circular apertures.Definitely a neat project, though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230581",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T04:18:50",
"content": "@jeditalian Because the moon is grey?Sometimes it’s lit up orange through the atmosphere, but that atmospheric filtering likely also adds distortion to the image, so it might not make for good pictures. Also, the moon is grey much more often.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230719",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T04:50:37",
"content": "jeditalianbecause thats the color of the moon XDsure it can have red/blue tints depending on how much atmosphere is in the way (doper shift effect) but its naturally black and white XD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "231348",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T07:40:46",
"content": "@jeditalianHerearesome“color” images I have taken of the moon.*Note I was testing lenses for infinity focus, I realize that they are not the best/most detailed pictures.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232159",
"author": "ferdi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T10:43:03",
"content": "@jeditalianhave you ever look up to see the moonthan you can see that the moon is BLACK WHITEeven a 9 years old now this but the moon refleckt licht do to this the color can be from red to yellow 1 tip whats more discovery than you can get smarter",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232542",
"author": "polossatik",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T12:34:26",
"content": "Nice build and not something often seen. respect.But still think getting a 1000mm MTO-11CA is a better idea from $$ point of view.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232737",
"author": "Daniel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T13:26:49",
"content": "You’re missing the point, this was designed for medium format and large format cameras, the area projected by that lens is much larger than the 6x7cm image format in the Pentax film camera he was using. Using a smaller telescope won’t help because it won’t project the image circle needed for the formats they are using.He posted a reply to some of the “poo-poo” comments on the bottom of the thread. Copied here for the lazy.“There have been some comments on another forum about this lens which seem to ‘poo poo’ the project and say that anyone can attach a telescope to a camera and obtain similar results. However, those denigrators are missing the point that this lens has a much wider aperture than any budget priced refracting telescope and that it was primarily designed for medium and large format film photography … as distinct from 35mm film and digital . And someone else suggested that using a catadioptric lens would be much easier. Perhaps they have overlooked that mirror lenses of this aperture would be prohibitively expensive and that they would be limited to one aperture and also result in the distracting ‘doughnuts’ syndrome. Unlike a cat. lens, this lens is capable of being modified for use with an iris diaphragm. Someone else suggested the images are not that sharp but they are overlooking the fact that atmospheric pollution plays havoc with ultra-long focus lenses … plus the fact that the images are compressed before posting.”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232848",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T13:36:48",
"content": "About jeditalian;He once again showed sarcasm and jokes based on it are over people’s head on the internet.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "233122",
"author": "medix",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T14:27:42",
"content": "@Daniel: He seems to be blaming the image quality on the atmosphere and not the lens. While this is a contributing factor, it is not the main cause.Format is not relatively important. With this setup, you’re going to get fairly similar results all across the board. Aperture is a big factor, but what is the actual f number of the lens? (I haven’t had time to look into this). If it is anywhere near f/2.8 then I could see *some* advantage, but focal lengths such as this can easily be accomplished for nearly the same price using a readily available reflex lens. You’ll have a much smaller aperture (around f/8 – f/10: not really a problem with high ISO) but the quality will be much improved.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "233219",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T14:48:49",
"content": "@Daniela proper digiscope will work with full frame (as you call it 35mm) formats at apertures as high as 1.4 if you have a proper telescopemy $500 mirror telescope is a good 1600mm and i get F2.8 with iti have a nikon scouting scope (for shooting) and i get F5 with itand i would get much clearer images with a telescope because the optics would generally have an ED coating and aspherical lensesor you can just get a cheep mirror scope and it covers all of this (but blurred beams of light look like doughnuts)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "233950",
"author": "Terry",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T17:39:08",
"content": "FWIW: For photography, a lens of a given f/# ordinarily will outperform a Newtonian reflector of the same f/# unless the desired field is extremely small. The lower the f/# the more this applies. At about f/6 and lower, coma is quite apparent at the edge of the field of a paraboloidal mirror.A catadioptric–Schmidt-Cass or Maksutov–can be superior to a Newt reflector but that’s largely because of the larger f/#.Of course, a larger mirror will give a brighter image than a smaller lens. It all depends on what you want to do with it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234231",
"author": "Reggie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T18:37:54",
"content": "The main issue that he will have with the moon is the amount of light the moon chucks out and the speed its moving in the sky, will need a very quick shutter speed and probably a ‘moon’ filter of some description.Either that or get it onto a real German EQ telescope mount, manual or motorised and track the moon properly, maybe even look at some deep sky objects like nebulae and globular clusters :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234253",
"author": "Reggie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T18:42:57",
"content": "the coma can be overcome via a field flattener/reducer, although getting into astronomy kit when you’ve built a scope on a budget is probably not where they’re headed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "236752",
"author": "Greycode",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T01:08:00",
"content": "The point here being he “built” this, yes, you can buy better. But this is not the Buy a Day website. Hacked. Plus I don’t think he did it to get on this site, he did it for his own pleasure.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "237136",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T02:48:14",
"content": "@GreycodeEh, yeah, but what he built was a 60 lb lens that doesn’t appear to provide any advantages (even cost) over commercially available telescope options.We normally hack stuff to save money, or do something better. Doing neither is just silly.And he says this is for medium format, but I still don’t see the advantage over using 35mm and a telescope if the quality is going to be that poor! Higher resolution blurry images are still blurry images.-Taylor",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "239381",
"author": "Reggie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T14:05:36",
"content": "Here’s what you can do with a real telescope and a £40 webcam:http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg85/SkyAndStuff/vid7.jpgIt’s a schmidtt-cassegrain, 150mm aperture, F10, webcam was a philips SPC900NC.There is a technique called stacking, where you take many images and layer the best ones together to draw out subtle information.A webcam is used because it runs quite fast at 25fps, you take a few thousand frames and then do the stacking process. This has the added bonus of allowing you to filter out images that are poor quality due to the atmospherics or what is more commonly known as ‘seeing’.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.78552
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/01/developing-an-animatronics-platform/
|
Developing An Animatronics Platform
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Wearable Hacks"
] |
[
"animatronic",
"lithium polymer",
"max1555",
"predator",
"servo"
] |
This Predator costume has an animatronic element in the shoulder cannon. It tracks the movement of the mask, aiming wherever the Predator gazes. [Jerome Kelty] was asked by a friend to help develop the costume and he ended up with
an animatronics platform which can be adapted for many different uses
.
Starting with an Arduino Pro Mini [Jerome] designed a host board which would breakout the pins of the Arduino and make it easy to connect and drive multiple servo motors. The board is powered by a 3.3v Lithium Polymer battery with charging handled by a MAX1555 that was included in the design. Check out the video after the break which shows off the Predator suit. Looks like [Jerome] got it right, and he’s also put the platform to use with an Ironman suit that has an arm-mounted missle feature.
Need some inspiration for you next costume build? Take a look at this
animatronic collection
to get you started.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYScDwP3v8w&w=470]
| 10
| 10
|
[
{
"comment_id": "228207",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T19:41:28",
"content": "Really neat! Although if it had been me i’d have put in three lasers so it looks like the speargun reticule – granted it wouldn’t look as snazzy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228778",
"author": "Jordan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T21:40:51",
"content": "Now to do away with the wires… Then, I would totally pay them to make me one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230141",
"author": "Honus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T02:09:16",
"content": "Most of the wires you see are long servo cables. There’s only a few wires that go to the Bio helmet and they are hidden inside the three cables that connect the Bio to the backpack- just like in the first film. The three cables unplug from the Bio so you can take it off.All of the electronics go in the backpack.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230445",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T03:58:28",
"content": "I don’t know if this should be categorized as animatronics so much as it should a wearable head-tracking turret system.Regardless, it makes me want to build one that force-feeds glow-in-the-dark paintballs from below, and uses less Arduino.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230658",
"author": "Combust",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T04:42:12",
"content": "Great work Jerome! Arduinos are so versatile! Great for costumes and things as found onhttp://www.405th.com.Of course its animatronics! Just not in regards to a puppet, its for the turret. And wires are unfortunately always a problem due to the number of motors and servos etc. You just have to be creative in hiding and running the wire bundles.Speaking of lots of wires, here is something ive worked on recently:http://www.makehackvoid.com/member-projects/arduino-controlled-robotic-hand",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "231287",
"author": "tech-no-pest",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T07:32:32",
"content": "yes less arduino and more cowbell…the three laser pointers would diffidently give it a more movie realistic look",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232625",
"author": "stephen kellogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T13:10:27",
"content": "What you could do is add high power led’s to the firing end and have it track finger movements or put a button wired to it down to your hand will work as well. above all good job and i cant wait to see it detailed and painted.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "233982",
"author": "Honus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T17:46:01",
"content": "It does have the three beam laser sight- it turns on as soon as the system is armed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234830",
"author": "Marco Guardigli",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T20:37:23",
"content": "great!!Check also my arduino based face follower and laser shooter, that shoots incoming human enemies!http://marco.guardigli.it/2010/01/arduinoprocessing-face-follower.htmlBE careful with lasers. Do not point in the eyes.Marco (@mgua)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "238055",
"author": "Honus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T06:50:09",
"content": "Marco,That is very cool! I recommend that people use LEDs instead of lasers, especially if the costume is to be worn in public.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.954447
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/01/fake-christmas-tree-makes-it-fake-snow/
|
Fake Christmas Tree Makes It Fake Snow
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"home hacks"
] |
[
"christmas tree",
"snow",
"styrofoam",
"umbrella"
] |
Let it snow inside your house this Christmas by
building your own snow making tree
. [Trey] was inspired by a snowing lamp-post he came across in a story. He looked around the house and came up with all the stuff necessary to make this happen with a Christmas tree. The snow is loose Styrofoam like you’d find in a bean bag chair. At the bottom of the tree there’s an inverted umbrella to collect the snowfall and funnel it into a blower salvaged from an inflatable Halloween yard ornament. The blower shoots the Styrofoam up through a PVC pipe, which also serves as the trunk of the fake tree, and it erupts from the top bringing Christmas cheer to an otherwise quiet room.
See for yourself
.
| 23
| 23
|
[
{
"comment_id": "227571",
"author": "Rogan Dawes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T17:32:11",
"content": "Good luck getting it all off the roof! :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227613",
"author": "bunedoggle",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T17:50:21",
"content": "That sounds like a recipe for a huge mess. I remember those beanbag seats breaking open and those little styrene balls sticking to everything!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227665",
"author": "Grovenstien",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T18:05:44",
"content": "Wow i remember making something very similar in 1989 with a lego motor and a card board tube. You need a big circle of cardboard at the base to catch the balls. They used do do this in a shop window display in my town.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227670",
"author": "vash sin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T18:07:43",
"content": "wouldent it be just as good to use packing styrofoam?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227681",
"author": "alan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T18:10:21",
"content": "you need sometype of ball that can roll down back into the fan area? from what i understand if you use styrofoam pieces it gets stuck to the umbrella from static?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227777",
"author": "ivy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T18:31:01",
"content": "If I attempted this project, the most expensive part would be the divorce attorney…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227908",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T18:50:00",
"content": "Neat, nevermind the lung cancer…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228045",
"author": "nap",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T19:02:37",
"content": "it’s far too messy@ivy LOL",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228081",
"author": "PR0CR4571N4T0R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T19:15:18",
"content": "I saw this exact thing in a store about 15 years ago.messy as hell, noisy also",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228242",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T19:50:36",
"content": "Sounds like a Dentist’s spit sucker – not exactly my first choice for Xmas cheer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228260",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T19:53:31",
"content": "So like this then?http://www.therange.co.uk/invt/432464/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228774",
"author": "kevin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T21:40:15",
"content": "Seems like a very bad idea to me. Those little styrofoam pellets are easily aspirated and have been known to asphyxiate chidren and pets.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "229809",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T01:01:44",
"content": "@bunedoggleTotally!@ivy+1 :)The idea was good to start with… self snowing Xmas tree… The problem is static and styrofoam just doesn’t mix :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230245",
"author": "octel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T02:49:05",
"content": "might as well use asbestos dust",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230349",
"author": "uzerzero",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T03:21:47",
"content": "I have to admit… this isn’t that impressive. No offense to the creators, but it’s a good idea that’s poorly implemented. In their defense, there’s no good way of making fake snow that doesn’t involve making real snow. And that umbrella doesn’t leave much room for presents…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230803",
"author": "takfly",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T05:15:14",
"content": "@will I saw the post and thought the exact same thing! The only difference between the one in this post and the one in the range is the store bought version has a handy little diffuser on top to stop the ceiling getting covered :0D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232183",
"author": "ferdi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T10:49:53",
"content": "mmmm i think you must repaint your house on the 1e off jan thannow thats a happy nieuw yearwhats rong whit a normal treethe loss nedelsthats no probleem whan you will you tree out the house put the tree n a bed sheet than you can transport the tree whit out you get your hous full of the nedels",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232628",
"author": "Pouncer",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T13:12:18",
"content": "@FerdiWhat???",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "233453",
"author": "Mikey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T15:46:01",
"content": "Saw this back in ’68 or ’69. Ace hardware or True Value Hardware. Store clerk said it made a mess daily.Looked good, but made a mess. And they wanted $64 for the whole tree/snow pellets/blower thing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "233580",
"author": "Griff",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T16:14:53",
"content": "hmmm. I saw one of these in a local furniture store. wasn’t for sale but looked neat, I didn’t think it was home made though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "236624",
"author": "Bad Idea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T00:33:30",
"content": "This is most certainly a bad idea. This guy has never carved styrofoam or anything similar to even comprehend the mess that is about to happen….but aside from the mess that is most obvious…I would like to point out the static charge that is being built up in that tube….eventually that charge will be release in the form of a spark…a spark that could seriously start a fire. This is a disaster in the making in every way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "238096",
"author": "pRtkL xLr8r",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T07:03:14",
"content": "In my mind I was imagining something way cooler than what I saw in the video.And God forbid anyone opens the front door when a strong gust blows through…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240253",
"author": "dan fruzzetti",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T19:18:49",
"content": "And a boatload of Christmas clean-up, too. Soooo glad I had kids",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,323.905392
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/01/hacked-led-christmas-lights/
|
Hacked LED Christmas Lights
|
Devlin Thyne
|
[
"LED Hacks"
] |
[
"ATtiny13A",
"christmas lights",
"led"
] |
[Robert] wanted
more out of his GE Color Effects G-35 LED Christmas lights
. He reverse engineered and then hacked the protocol the lights use to communicate so that he can control each bulb. A 26-bit frame contains a 6-bit address, an 8-bit brightness value, and a 12-bit color value. The daisy chain topology of the data bus allows for modular bulbs with addresses enumerated during the startup of the string of lights. With this information, a 5 volt capable microcontroller is able to control a whole string of these lights with a refresh rate of up to 24Hz. In this case, [Robert] used an ATtiny13A microcontroller to control the string of lights. You can see a video of them in action after the break.
Also taken apart and analyzed, were the wireless transmitter and receiver that came with the lights, revealing a cheap ISM band receiver and transmitter module pair. Perhaps they will be useful for another project. We look forward to seeing people put these hacked lights to use throughout the year.
[via
Make
]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/v/AySja69jvHM&w=470]
| 35
| 30
|
[
{
"comment_id": "227318",
"author": "alan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T16:13:27",
"content": "That’s pretty neat. I wonder if you can just keep adding strands of these together without having to adjust the 5v chip circuit.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227319",
"author": "CGross",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T16:13:36",
"content": "Would this be a decent project to do when starting to learn the Arduino? I’m not very good with programming it yet and this looks to be along the lines of what I’d want to accomplish with it right now.I don’t know how to address each bulb is the only problem. :/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227345",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T16:22:40",
"content": "Awesome… I will go see if I can find one and use PIC as the controller… ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227387",
"author": "ewan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T16:32:58",
"content": "how much do these actualy cost?i’m hoping one day to find strings of adressable led lights cheap enough to make a led pixel wall.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "227413",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T16:40:34",
"content": "@ewan,I found them online for roughly $50. I think it was the string of 50 lights.",
"parent_id": "227387",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "227415",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T16:41:12",
"content": "Gosh, they are a bit hard to find in Canada (and not cheap)… So far I can locate the 36 LED version for C$67 after discount.But I still thinks it is cool!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227426",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T16:46:04",
"content": "Pretty sweet. I’m enjoying myself just reading the thread on how they figure this out.http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13062",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227498",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T17:07:44",
"content": "Massively cheaper than the monster sized ones from sparkfun.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227682",
"author": "blkhawk",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T18:10:43",
"content": "Anybody know of a similar single-addressable RGB Light-chain available in Europe? Google failed me so far and ordering from the US always takes Ages.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227786",
"author": "Andy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T18:35:14",
"content": "Darc’s effort occurred in parallel with some people over on DIYC (linked above). None of the people involved were aware of each other except the two on DIYC prior to Darc’s post. I think a while bunch of people attacked these strands at the same time. They were a juicy target.CPN (cost per node) is reasonably decent, the only better CPN I’ve seen for strands (as opposed to “centralized dimming” approaches using a PCA9635 or similar central dimming IC for multiple RGB nodes) is for Asian imports of WS2801-based nodes from Aliexpress. (Difficult and may get seized by customs).However these particular strands have some annoying issues, namely the fact that adjusting the brightness more than one step at a time causes them to glitch. :(So it’s good availability with OK cost for individually addressable RGB strands ($60/50 nodes at Costco, $78/50 nodes at Lowes, sold out in many places already), but with some technical limitations.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "227933",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T18:55:04",
"content": "So what is the advantage over these?:http://bliptronics.com/item.aspx?ItemID=83it looks like the bliptronics LEDs havebetter response, still water proof, and cheaper.",
"parent_id": "227786",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "228163",
"author": "jcprojects",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T19:35:19",
"content": "@CGross – check out the guys article, it explains addressing each bulb pretty well. If I did it, I’d use a Basic Stamp II that I have laying around, but I suppose any microcontroller would work well… Crap, a PLC would even work, never see those used on Hackaday.Maybe someone knows, but after reading Darc’s article, do you have to write your own custom protocol or is there a way to use a serial signal? I’d rather not reinvent the wheel.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228219",
"author": "CGross",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T19:45:38",
"content": "@jcprojects I’m way too new to this to really understand what I was reading fully. I knew what it was referring to, but as for programming I got NO idea.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228769",
"author": "mungewell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T21:39:04",
"content": "What would be awesome is to put these into a gridded box with frosted plastic on the front.A large, low res display screen… blinken lights style.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228950",
"author": "Tumbleweed",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T22:10:07",
"content": "A quick web search finds these (normally $99) lights at “The Great Hardware Store” for only $55.http://www.thegreathardwarestore.com/Santa-s-Best-Craft-36CT-LED-G35-LargeT-Set-p/128059.htm?click=2744",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "229586",
"author": "Tim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T00:23:06",
"content": "Nice work!Their implementation sounds extremely similar to the open-source RGB LED platform (Das Blinkenlichten –http://tim.cexx.org/?p=453) I released a few years ago, right down to the self-clocking one-wire protocol, start/end conditions, address grouping, etc. Blinkenlichten is GPL’ed and <$1USD/node from readily available parts, but of course, that doesn't count your time to assemble it.Looks like they went for a 24- vs. a 16-bit frame, and higher color resolution ;-) (I limited my project to a more modest 729 colors to make it fast/simple enough to implement on a 34-cent PIC10 without glitches, but it is pretty smooth in practice.) Any idea what chip/core they are using in each LED node?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "229818",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T01:04:13",
"content": "@TumbleweedThat’s only 36 bulbs… we want 50! :)Still can’t find it in Canada.. :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230035",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T01:49:36",
"content": "“If you plan to control the string using a … 3.3-volt microcontroller), be aware of the voltage difference. I haven’t tried driving the data line at 3.3 volts, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it had some problems, especially with the last few lights in the string.”Since each ‘bulb’ has a micro in it, taking the data line in as digital and repeating the signal on its output, each bulb would essentially act as a data repeater.I would guess they draw the power from the +5V line somehow to retransmit the output, so it would only be 3.3V until the first bulb.Theoretically, you could splice several of these strings together. If you’re making your own controller, there’s no reason you can’t address up to 64 lights per string.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230095",
"author": "localroger",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T01:56:55",
"content": "He says the bulbs only honor addresses up to 42.As for 3v3, if that’s a problem (which it probably isn’t) just invert the drive signal and use a NPN transistor with pullup resistor to drive the string.This is an awesome find for animated displays of a certain type. I’m about to go shopping.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230782",
"author": "trebu",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T05:08:36",
"content": "I’m hoping my local big box store has a pre holiday surplus and massive post holiday discounts. I’m thinking LED wall and Kinect in color.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230959",
"author": "Andy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T05:57:09",
"content": "Trebu – from the sounds of it, these strands are already sold out at Costco, and at my local Lowes (More expensive – $78 instead of $60 for a 50-count strand) the 50-count globes are gone too. I bought one set but had to return it due to a defect.My guess is the 36-count icicle strands will be gone before Lowes discounts them. (The 36-count icicles are the same price as the 50-count G-35s – $78)Caleb Craft – The bliptronics strips do indeed have a lower CPN and more flexibility, however it’s basically bare emitters on a strip. These include faceted covers to make them appear like Chrstmas lights.I’ve seen individually addressable RGB strands from aliexpress for as low as 50-60 cents/node plus shipping, however that is for unknown quality and the shipping can get nasty.jcprojects – The timing of these is such that you would not be able to use a serial port directly. You could, however, feed serial data into a microcontroller which can drive this custom protocol.Do note that if you read through the threads, these strands appear to have a pretty nasty limitation – they glitch if you try to change brightness in more than single increment/decrement amounts. This’ll kill your refresh rate if you want to independently fade nodes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232191",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T10:51:55",
"content": "I loves me some Holiday light hacks.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246320",
"author": "st2000",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T16:44:05",
"content": "Can someone describe the “glitch”?I can’t imagine it being so bad that you can’t generate a given random setting for all 50 lights within one or two seconds, if not less.Regardless, migrating toward a given setting might be a nice effect.-thanks",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247209",
"author": "lampshades",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:04:07",
"content": "This looks like a great project for me and my son. I wonder if you can source the parts in the UK",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "286079",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T23:22:52",
"content": "Menards has these on sale increaseing in amount twards xmas. Got them for $34 (36 bulbs) wont have time to hack them this year, but will put them up for sure!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "382758",
"author": "flynfish",
"timestamp": "2011-04-19T13:32:41",
"content": "Can these light be made to operate with DMS signals from a lighting console?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "507722",
"author": "voodoo",
"timestamp": "2011-11-13T23:51:42",
"content": "I assume you mean DMX, in which case the answer is yes, but you’ll need something in-line to do the conversion. I have had DMX working on PIC 16F628, but any device with a 9 bit compatible USART should work. There is some example code online that works with MikroElektronika’s MikroC compiler, which I used to put my DMX project together.",
"parent_id": "382758",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "504574",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-11-10T02:22:02",
"content": "Oh boy, I can’t even spell… Sorry all… Attention those who approve these posts, please delete the previous post. I don’t want to publicly what an idiot I am. I will repost next with proper spelling… ThanksMatt",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "504576",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2011-11-10T02:23:13",
"content": "Hello, I am not a programmer or a real tech savvy type. I do have 6 strands of these GE lights and I’d like to know if there is a dummy guide how to repogram these. Or if someone would be willing to put something together that I could just plug/splice/etc into my lights. Any ideas?Thanks for any help.Matt",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "507194",
"author": "JoeBanks",
"timestamp": "2011-11-13T03:39:49",
"content": "CostCo has them, occasionally, for around $50. My local store has sold out, but others still have them in stock.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "507546",
"author": "st2000",
"timestamp": "2011-11-13T17:33:44",
"content": "I gave up on finding the GE lights. Instead I opted for these:http://www.adafruit.com/products/306I have not gotten around to it yet, but they should be controllable from an Arduino:http://www.ladyada.net/products/digitalrgbledstrip/index.htmlI suspect the GE light to be somewhat similar. Well, not in protocol but probably in a general sense.From what I recall, the GE lights were a bit difficult to gradually change. But here are the hackaday.com articles on people hacking them. Surely one of them has enough detail for you to get started:http://hackaday.com/2011/01/11/scrolling-marquee-made-from-ge-christmas-lights/http://hackaday.com/2010/12/16/chat-list-indicator-uses-hacked-xmas-lights/http://hackaday.com/2010/12/01/hacked-led-christmas-lights/",
"parent_id": "507194",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "892835",
"author": "RHenningsgard",
"timestamp": "2012-11-27T16:06:47",
"content": "There are plenty of GE Color Effects 50’s coming up on eBay… I have bought several at prices from $40-$60.",
"parent_id": "507546",
"depth": 3,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "507664",
"author": "st2000",
"timestamp": "2011-11-13T21:32:24",
"content": "Or you could just read the latest HAD post:http://hackaday.com/2011/11/13/colornode-a-drop-in-ge-color-effects-led-controller/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "892489",
"author": "Amy G",
"timestamp": "2012-11-27T00:56:47",
"content": "We have three sets of GE Color Effects LED Christmas lights that have been spliced together. They work fine until you unplug them from the power source and the plug them back in. After that, one section won’t light up. In other to make it work again we have to unsplice then resplice them to get the back working. We are using 16-14 gauge insulated disconnect pairs to ‘splice’ them. Any suggestions would be great.Thanks, Amy",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "892578",
"author": "st2000",
"timestamp": "2012-11-27T05:05:06",
"content": "(I’m thinking not many people follow these old threads as this one is from an article HAD published a year ago. It might be better to start a new thread in the HAD forums under something like “help me hardware”.)Regardless, when you say “splice” are you actually connecting the power and data lines from one string to the next? I’m not sure that will work. People have said these bulbs come up (power up) w/no addresses. And that the first thing the controller does is to enumerate the bulbs. If the controller thinks there are only 50 bulbs then why would it send out more than 50 enumeration commands?These comments are based on this article:http://www.deepdarc.com/2010/11/27/hacking-christmas-lights/-good luck",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.116193
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/30/single-led-ultraviolet-exposure-box/
|
Single LED Ultraviolet Exposure Box
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Tool Hacks"
] |
[
"box",
"exposure",
"led",
"pcb",
"uv"
] |
[Jacques Lebrac] built
a UV exposure box for printed circuit boards
using just one LED. He usually makes boards that are just a few square inches and didn’t think building
a box that had upwards of 80 LEDs
was worth his time. He passed by the low power LEDs for a single 5W unit. Pumping 1.5A through this LED makes for some quick exposures, but causes heat issues. To solve this, an aluminum arm was used to mount the LED, acting as mechanical support and heat sink at the same time. The voltage regulator was glued directly to the chassis, providing at least some heat dissipation.
[Jacques] came up with an eloquent solution for holding the transparency and copper clad in place. A piece of acrylic is hinged on the back using a piece of aluminum tubing. The front has a magnet glued to it, with another one in the base to hold the cover tight to the work surface during operation.
| 40
| 39
|
[
{
"comment_id": "223916",
"author": "rapps",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T22:11:23",
"content": "Wow, really neat solution! Kudos to him!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223934",
"author": "JeremyC",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T22:18:27",
"content": "Yeah, very nice!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223981",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T22:45:24",
"content": "eloquent -> elegant?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224030",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T23:06:09",
"content": "Awesome! I’ve been really interested in laying out boards with those high powered LEDs lately (visible light for me).I finally looked around and found that National.com has a really slick calculator that lets you specify some parameters, and it will help you design a whole circuit for your lighting system. Then, if you know EAGLE, it’s easy! (if you don’t know eagle, use the sparkfun tutorials and learn!)I designed a board this weekend that has 4 CREE XP-G leds and one little chip with just a couple of external components to drive it. It will draw about 10 watts and put out as much light as a 60 watt light bulb!I also thought this was interesting:http://www.digikey.com/Web%20Export/Supplier%20Content/Cree_90/PDF/Cree_XLampMPL_Pendant.pdfThere is a section in that paper that briefly explains why they don’t drive these things anywhere near their capacity normally (it’s not as efficient, so more LEDs at lower current is preferable).Digikey also sent me a little magazine that is all about LEDs. It explained why heat management is so important (heat drastically reduces the life of the LED). LEDs are efficient, but they still burn 75% of their energy as heat. Only its worse for them because the heat goes into the base, not radiation in the air like regular bulbs. So you HAVE to use a heat sink if you want things to be good.Lots of learning. I wish i knew a link to a PDF of that magazine. I don’t see it, but digikey has a lot of other info here:http://www.digikey.com/us/en/techzone/lighting/index.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224034",
"author": "Amos",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T23:09:28",
"content": "eloquent -> elegant!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224036",
"author": "Taylor Alexander",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T23:09:50",
"content": "Oh, and I learned why constant current drivers are a must for high power LEDs. They have a steep voltage/current curve, so a slight change in voltage (like a resistor heating up) can equal a large change in current, and that will reduce the life of the thing. So constant current drivers are really important. Luckily they’re easy with the calculator I mentioned.My other comment had links and is awaiting moderation, so this comment may not make as much sense until that one is approved…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224129",
"author": "George Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T23:35:26",
"content": "Just use MG Chemicals pre-sensitized boards and use a regular fluorescent lamp. It’s quick and easy and cheap. The exposure is quick enough you don’t get undercutting, and you develop the same way, so nothing has to change really, except you’re using a simple light source.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224297",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T00:40:39",
"content": "Why are we exposing circuit boards with UV again? My preferred method is painting on a mask, laser etching the negative away then ferric chloride to etch the copper away then acetone to remove the remaining paint to expose the traces and then water only (no abrasive) waterjet cutting the holes. Simple, really.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "974446",
"author": "Alex",
"timestamp": "2013-03-09T22:11:33",
"content": "Because not everyone has access to a laser cutter or waterjet cutter like you… unless you were being sarcastic and that was the entire point of your post..",
"parent_id": "224297",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "224301",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T00:41:57",
"content": "digital picture frame :-)or a nokia 3310 screen from sparkfun, either could work well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224376",
"author": "tim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T01:14:02",
"content": "digital picture frame ?if i could get one with 600dpi :(of course tubes and lamp are ok, but you will never get a so compact design. And it is low voltage.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224473",
"author": "Bill D. Williams",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T01:37:20",
"content": "eloquentel·o·quent (l-kwnt)adj.1. Characterized by persuasive, powerful discourse: an eloquent speaker; an eloquent sermon.2. Vividly or movingly expressive:Lol. Wut?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224627",
"author": "Addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:35:00",
"content": "Ok mike, u got me.I see tons of these exposure boxes.I refuse to etch boards because my shop , is my bedroom. Not interested in storing chemicals.Can you find some good posts on how to make boards using this method.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224635",
"author": "Devin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:39:15",
"content": "@Addidis“I refuse to etch boards because my shop , is my bedroom. Not interested in storing chemicals.”But your bedroom, your computer, your circuit boards, and you yourself are made of chemicals! Ferric chloride isn’t even particularly dangerous; you’ve got worse stuff sitting in your stomach right now.Don’t mean to make fun of you or anything, I’ve just never understood people being afraid of “chemicals.”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224714",
"author": "lobster",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:41:59",
"content": "OK I will ask a really dumb question. How does this work? Is there some chemical on the board that reacts to the UV light? Or does the UV light just eat away the copper?Are they just using a clear plastic sheet that was printed out on a laser jet printer?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224859",
"author": "Addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T03:08:59",
"content": "@devinNo offense taken, So I have a cat who likes to eat things. I am also really sensitive to chemicals from working batching flavor chemicals. Worst job Ive ever had. After working it , im allergic to peppermint , cinnamon, and various other flavorings. Its just one thing I decided I wouldnt tolerate any more.@lobster clear plastic with traces on it that (if im not mistaken) blocks the uv light from the traces. The uv breaks down the exposed copper. The covered traces remain. I could have that bass ackwards though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224897",
"author": "lobster",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T03:24:41",
"content": "@Addids Thanks, makes me wonder if there are any health issues. What happens to the copper.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224942",
"author": "Addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T03:40:21",
"content": "There are health issues with any thing. If you eat the pcb , it probably wont do you any good lol.Here seems to be a good page on itw w.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.htmlJust add a W",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225132",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T04:13:02",
"content": "Wait… can you elaborate on “allergic to” peppermint, cinnamon, etc?I am genuinely curious. I have seen people become sensitized to things like the chemicals in latex rubber, the proteins in the latex, acrylates, adhesives but peppermint? Can you explain further what that means to you?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225154",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T04:24:21",
"content": "@lobster & @AddidisIn regards to the statement that “The uv breaks down the exposed copper”, that’s quite not correct :)You first put UV (or light) sensitive emulsion on the copper (make your board kind of an old fashioned photo paper, if you still remember how we used to make “permanent” memories before the “jpeg” and “ink jet” did what CD and the MP3 did to vinil records and record players), UV (or light) chnages chemical compisition of exposed emulsion, then you “develop” the board (basically remove exposed areas from the copper), then “etch” the exposed copper with FeriChlorid or some other chemicals.To make all this even more complicated, there are “positive” and “negative” emulsions – ones that get disolved where exposed or not exposed.Hope this helps a bit :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225428",
"author": "Addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T05:43:37",
"content": "Hrm not so sure this is any better then etching a board. Just seems like more steps.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225639",
"author": "Miroslav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T07:02:41",
"content": "Etching (whatever kind you normaly do) actualy comes AFTER this step.Look at this as better or not replacement for permanent marker, or toner transfer, or ink jet transfer, or …",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225684",
"author": "Garbz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T07:19:21",
"content": "@George JohnsonWhat I’ve never figured out is why people bother with this method at all. Ok I get that some people may want to do this at night, but it seems like an awful lot of work when the alternative is to go stand in the sun for 2 minutes which yields better results due to more coherent light hitting the board at a perpendicular angle (no undercutting even if overexposed).Though I get this may be a good idea if you’re stuck in England where the sun is never visible, or Norway where the sun doesn’t exist for half a year :)@Any who still persist with toner transfer:Try this photographic method. It will change your life, and blow your mind. You’ll probably just end up in a great depression when you realised how much of a bloody pain toner transfer was and that you’ve wasted your life perfecting that (in my humble opinion) CRAP method of making PCBs.Come join us enlightened :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "226217",
"author": "Phil",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T09:53:20",
"content": "I’ve an awful habit over under or over exposing PCBs with this method. Is there a simple trick I’ve missed to getting the right timing?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "226290",
"author": "Jordan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T10:29:53",
"content": "Word of caution to anyone trying to do this. Some (read: most) acrylic responds to UV light, reducing it’s intensity. Prove this to yourself by half covering a sheet of standard white paper – you will see a “shadow”. I reduced my exposure times by 50% by switching to real glass…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "226506",
"author": "Gnarp",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T11:28:40",
"content": "HelloNice build.Why not use a lens to make the beam even more powerful? And you should have a bigger heatsink.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "226824",
"author": "Rusty",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T13:19:47",
"content": "@CutThroughStuffGuyPlease, provide access to a laser and water jet, and then I will do things your preffered way. However, with the limited resources most of us have, etching this way is far mor cost available.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228682",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T21:22:17",
"content": "Access to a waterjet and laser cutter may be obtained by payment of $270,000.Or buy a surplus 40k psi waterjet pump off of ebay for $2000 and marry it to a CNC table then buy a chinese water cooled laser etcher for $3000 or so. Still not what most people would consider cheap.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230105",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T01:59:56",
"content": "i wanna buy that LED for my micro tanning wristwatch, that prevents those pesky wristwatch tanlines.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230128",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T02:04:35",
"content": "no acrylic, no glass:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transparent_aluminiumexcept: To create transparent aluminium, more power than is used by an entire city had to be focused into a dot with a diameter of less than one-twentieth the thickness of a human hair, and then could only maintain the transparent state for 40 femtoseconds.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230300",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T03:01:55",
"content": "@jeditalianThanks for wasting 40 femtoseconds of my life reading that ridiculous post.The toner transfer method works for me because I only use it for one-off boards (usually just for testing). Anything more than one gets sent to a board house.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230363",
"author": "andres",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T03:28:24",
"content": "@jeditalianfalse, transparent aluminum can stay transparent.http://dornob.com/transparent-aluminum-glass-like-see-through-metal/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230423",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T03:50:50",
"content": "It’s more like a ceramic than aluminum though?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230951",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T05:55:15",
"content": "The transparent alum. looks like it would absorb a LOT of your light… what’s wrong with borosilicate glass?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230984",
"author": "Garbz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T06:04:48",
"content": "@SporkWhat difference is there doing one offs on toner transfer compared with this method? The way I see it the wastage is the same. 1 piece of inkjet paper vs 1 piece of overhead transparency. The chemicals for this process are reusable. I have used the same bottle of developer and riston stripper for close to 1 year now, though the developer now has taken a very purple colour so I expect to spend another $15 on a new one soon.@PhilIs your over-exposing problem due directly to time or due to lack of adequate light cut-off due to the screen you used. I used laser printed overhead transparencies. If I use just the one I pretty much have a very limited time band between nailing the exposed area and starting to eat away at the supposedly unexposed area.If you stack multiple transparencies and glue them together (carefully) then that band of error increases. With 3 transparencies stacked on top of each other my initial tests gave something like 1-2min for a correct exposure and 5+ min before the unexposed sections will start to deteriorate due to light leaking.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "231067",
"author": "glagnar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T06:24:07",
"content": "Did anyone actually look at the schematic? The resistor is wrong, for 1.5A it has to be 1.25/1.5=0.83 Ohms. The 1 Ohm resistor will result in a 1.25A current. Also, the LMx17 needs a heatsink for *anything* over a 7V input voltage.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232215",
"author": "Phil",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T10:56:40",
"content": "@GarbzThat makes sense – I’ve been using just the one overhead transparency. Next time I’ll try stacking a couple.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234116",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T18:16:40",
"content": "@GarbzIt seems like I had more materials lying around for the toner method. I have a printer, an iron, and etchant. I only had to purchase the photo paper. I also never get undercut/overexposure problems and can have traces as small as 8mil. Do you think there is much to gain by switching methods?@glagnarGood luck finding that 0.83 ohm resistor. Oh, and did you even look at the article? The entire support arm is aluminum… as in an aluminum heat sink.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "236881",
"author": "tim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T01:46:53",
"content": "@glanar,Yes it is less than 1.5 amp. I did not have a 0.83ohm resistor while doing this project (do you ?).1.25A is just fine, who said it needs exactly 1.5A ?And no you do not need a heatsink, i run it with 12Vdc, it is hot but much lower than the LM117 can stand, remember it will run for only 2 minutes a couple of times a day!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "238995",
"author": "anthony quon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T11:55:42",
"content": "do you think someday we will use LEDs to burn images on screens for silk-screening?i know manual printing, emulsion, sweet emusion.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.042985
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/30/hacker-classifieds-featured-find-thin-clients-on-the-cheap/
|
Hacker Classifieds Featured Find: Thin Clients On The Cheap
|
Caleb Kraft
|
[
"HackIt"
] |
[
"classifieds",
"thin client"
] |
[Bissinblob] has about 70 of these WYSE 3125SE thin clients and is
offering them up at $15 a piece
plus shipping. That’s quite a steal!
The specs are as follows:
NS Geode GX1 core (SC2200)266Mhz
Flash 32MB
RAM 64MB
Video 1280×1024(at 8-bit color), 1024×768 (at 16-bit)
10/100 network
3x usb
1x serial
1x parallel
2x PS/2
Be sure to let us know what you’re doing with them if you happen to get one. If you have something lying around that needs to go, feel free to post it on
our classifieds
.
| 40
| 39
|
[
{
"comment_id": "223776",
"author": "arfink",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T21:05:53",
"content": "Um, very cool I guess. But this isn’t a hack…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223780",
"author": "Jake",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T21:06:56",
"content": "Most stuff posted here isn’t a “hack”…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223787",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T21:09:21",
"content": "Itself is not a hack, but is a piece of equipment used in the act of hacking.For example, it could be the brain of a DIY home automation system.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223813",
"author": "Elijah",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T21:23:56",
"content": "I have a a few older wyse 3200les and I found a few siteshttp://tinyurl.com/2f9yybchttp://tinyurl.com/ycnc2tdthat helped me flash a new firmware boot loader to boot DamnSmallLinux off of a USB drive. I use one for a remote wifi webcam and a basic ftp server.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223962",
"author": "cde",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T22:36:25",
"content": "Usb 1.1 or 2.0?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223983",
"author": "bodger",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T22:45:51",
"content": "Worth keeping tabs on thin clients on ebay – people occasionally post SFF PCs by mistake…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223987",
"author": "zeig",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T22:47:41",
"content": "Elijah! Please explain to us this hack!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224028",
"author": "Rocks25",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T23:05:15",
"content": "Oh suck it up people. Yes, this itself is not a hack, but it could very well be the start of one. Many people look to hackaday to find inspiration for their next hack and by posting this great deal they may just be inspiring someone to create something awesome. So don’t be hatin’ just because your too lazy to get your posterior off of your computer seat to make a hack of your own.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224171",
"author": "Andrew",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T23:39:10",
"content": "http://www.wyse.com/products/winterm/3125se/3125.pdfLink to the manual for the WYSE 3125se",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224234",
"author": "Nonya-Biz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T00:14:53",
"content": "AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH NNNNOOOOOOO those things are turds i have several i cant get rid of.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224366",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T01:09:56",
"content": "I look at this as less of an advertisement for the thin client, and more of an advertisement for Hackaday’s Classifieds. I haven’t seen anything new posted on there in nearly a week. But, while I’m here, I might as well say it: I think HaD would do well to implement some sort of forum; where HaD Answers and Classifieds could exist. Of course, I understand the HaD editors have their own lives, and their own list of things to do.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224410",
"author": "Chris Muncy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T01:28:29",
"content": "THe 3125’s were pretty solid. I used them at our remote concrete plants and they worked like a charm. The V30 series supports dual monitors with DVI out x2 and are great plus can be had cheap as well.Lot’s of potential.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224479",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T01:39:53",
"content": "I picked up a Maxterm thin client a few months ago, and while thickening it was a huge fail, the fact that it runs on 12 volts means that it will be an awesome platform for robotics.In my case perhaps my ROV.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224507",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T01:51:30",
"content": "Oooh, I like the idea of Hackaday Forums.But would that destroy the core site?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224631",
"author": "jeicrash",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:37:56",
"content": "I just updated my blog today on putting linux onto Athena TK3350’s. $15.00 is a little much for the specs of these but good deals are always popping up. Guess my hackaday zen was in line today.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224698",
"author": "cmholm",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:41:52",
"content": "In addition to Elijah’s dev link, there’s more info on getting the firmware to load something other than WinCE athttp://www.parkytowers.me.uk/thin/Wyse3125SE/Firmware.shtml",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224761",
"author": "robert a",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:52:55",
"content": "some specs and I think on the firmware page enough info to hack it with an alternate OS.http://www.parkytowers.me.uk/thin/Wyse3125SE/index.shtmlhsa",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224905",
"author": "Parker Reed",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T03:30:37",
"content": "I sent an email with the “Reply to this posting” link. Hope to get one soon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225122",
"author": "cknopp",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T04:08:38",
"content": "would it run Android?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225438",
"author": "baobrien",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T05:47:06",
"content": "@cknopp I don’t know if it would have enough to do full blown x86 android, but that would be pretty friggen cool.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225927",
"author": "telefisk",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T08:38:17",
"content": "somewhat compareable states to the old openbrick classic, except for the lack of massstorage, pcmcia, and limited memory.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227128",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T15:01:57",
"content": "These are worth $5.00 to $10.00 each. they are very low power and useless for anything but very basic things.You can Get $15.00 to $25.00 get bigger ones from HP or Other brands on ebay that have 800mhz processors and decent Video cards to work as awesome thin clients that will even play flash video smoothly.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227520",
"author": "Gordon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T17:14:00",
"content": "Hackaday could really use a forum. A forum would be a better way for users to communicate ideas of current and planned ‘hacks.’ Some of us could use a bit of peer review for our projects.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227549",
"author": "walt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T17:23:20",
"content": "hey all. i have a broken down lawnmower in my shed that i’ll sell to one of you for 6 bucks or a pack of smokes. your choice! reply here if interested. i figure one of you could make it into a robot or something which makes this comment hack related. i’ll be clearing out my attic in about a month. if i find anything worth selling, i’ll submit it to hackaday.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227623",
"author": "asheets",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T17:54:24",
"content": "Still waiting for a “services” portion in HaD Classifieds…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "228379",
"author": "walt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T20:20:11",
"content": "you censored my comment?! oh come now. it was playfully funny.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "228512",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T20:47:09",
"content": "@walt,I was typing up a response but you posted first… That’s what the classifieds are for! post it there please, even if you’re trading for beers & cigarettes, someone might take you up on it.edit- restored, its pretty harmless.",
"parent_id": "228379",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "228534",
"author": "leadacid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T20:51:10",
"content": "@strider_mt2kThose MaxTerm units wouldn’t happen to be WinXP embedded, VIA processor, CF based would they? If so I picked up a few of the same. Did you ever happen to figure out passwords for the XP embedded?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230600",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T04:23:44",
"content": "The classifieds page can’t find that item, so I assume that they’re now gone (as opposed to my browser settings being hosed or something.) If nothing else, a box with serial and parallel ports on it for that price could be adapted to do lots of different things that modern legacy-free laptops don’t bother with any more.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230824",
"author": "Amos",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T05:25:53",
"content": "Hopefully he’s going to re-list them for a more reasonable asking price. I was going to get one or two until I looked them up on the ‘bay… I’d be willing to pay ~US$6 each + (combined) shipping.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230842",
"author": "Amos",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T05:30:08",
"content": "To go along with [asheets] request for a “Services” section, where’s the “Wanted” section?Also, I posted a link about someone trying to run Android on one of these, and it’s still not up. Is there a problem with the link?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232581",
"author": "kaidenshi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T12:56:47",
"content": "Neat. I picked up two of the 3150SE models plus an older Praim thin client at work for $30 last week. I think the only difference is mine have 128MB of RAM, everything else seems the same.FYI the factory default BIOS password on both of mine is Fireport (case sensitive). Once in the BIOS you can reallocate some of the main memory to video memory if necessary, and change the boot order. I’ve managed to get Tiny Core Linux to install to the 32MB Flash chip, but there’s not a lot of room left afterward. Just enough to maybe put a small MP3 server on, however the onboard sound chip is problematic in most distros I’ve tried. I’ve also found that most any regular 2.4 or 2.6 kernel distro will boot and run from USB without issues (again other than audio support – the driver is there but ALSA won’t see the device).As I have two of them, I plan to put one in my car, booted off USB and patched through my CD changer port to use as an MP3 player. Note that they require a 12 volt power supply so no conversion is necessary. I’m very interested in going mostly headless, perhaps with a small LCD controller mounted to the dash. I doubt the machine is powerful enough for GPS though engine management is a possibility. There are four USB ports after all. The other unit will stay in the house as a spare and for prototyping. I have no idea what to do with the Praim unit; it’s much less powerful but does have a 44-pin PATA header…Anyone wanting more info can email me at my username at gmail and I’ll go as in-depth as I can.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234299",
"author": "Adam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T18:51:14",
"content": "I emailed as it suggested to make an offer to purchase… no reply. Seemed a waste of time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "234474",
"author": "chickenpluck",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T19:15:34",
"content": "@cknoppI don’t think these little guys could run Andriod, you would have to recompile it in a version that doesnt need one of the SSE’s CPU support. I have a similer WYSE that I tried to shoehorn Android into and ran into the same issue. Also on a side note, there may be enough room in there to fit and run a 2.5″ IDE laptop drive, at least there was on my WT9450XE. Fun little machines.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "238048",
"author": "kaidenshi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T06:45:07",
"content": "@chickenpluck: No, stock x86 Android dies with a kernel panic. on the 3150SE.I did recall that my model differs also in processor speed, at 400MHz. I’d love to find info on the custom IDE connector to see if it’s possible to connect a larger drive. This would allow dual or triple booting from internal storage among other benefits.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241482",
"author": "D",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:51:42",
"content": "This page informed me of the existence of thin clients.What I want to do is set up a machine that would act as a file server and let me stream mp3s using it over the network so my laptop could access it anywhere in the house.Is that possible with thinclients?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241797",
"author": "kaidenshi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T01:16:01",
"content": "@D: It should be possible; see my first post above for my ideas on an in-car music server. If you have one of the Wyse clients with USB, you can install a minimal file server using Tiny Core Linux or another ultra-low-resource build, attach and mount a USB storage drive filled with whatever files you wish to serve, tell the file server daemon to serve those files and hook it up to your network. That’s a bit oversimplified of an explanation but it’s the basic idea.Another approach (the one I’m going to take) is to ignore the minuscule onboard storage altogether and both boot and serve files from a USB device. This gives you nearly unlimited choice regarding distro and file serving method.You can also use a thin client as a print server at the same time (parallel and USB on so equipped models), as long as your distro of choice contains the correct drivers to share the printer over the network.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253260",
"author": "D",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T23:12:39",
"content": "thank you kaidenshi for your helpI ordered one and i’ll try to get it working when I have time later.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "285988",
"author": "SpiffWilkie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-18T18:41:54",
"content": "Got one in the mail today. Looking forward to some playing around with this thing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "355320",
"author": "Vasilis",
"timestamp": "2011-03-11T16:11:29",
"content": "The pata conector at 3125se accepts DOM up to 512mb",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.195155
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/30/time-lapse-camera-dolly/
|
Time-lapse Camera Dolly
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"digital cameras hacks"
] |
[
"dolly",
"skateboard",
"time-lapse",
"track",
"tube"
] |
[Brian Grabski] was asked by a friend to design and build a dolly that would move a camera during a time-lapse sequence. Above you can see
the product of his toils
, and the videos after the break show off the parts that went into the design and showcase effectiveness of the build.
The dolly is designed to ride on a pair of tubular rails. These can be bent to match any desired path and the dolly will have no problem following it thanks to two features. First, the triad of skateboard wheels on each of the three corners are mounted on a swivel bearing that allows them to rotate without binding. The other piece of the puzzle is a set of drawer slides that let the third support move perpendicular to the other two sets of rollers. A motor drives a geared wheel to move the dolly along the track with speed adjustments courtesy of the motor controller. There’s also a failsafe that will shut the system down when it runs out of track, protecting that fancy piece of hardware taking the pictures.
We’ve seen
timelapse
equipment that moves
the camera
in the past, but those hacks usually involve rotating the camera along and axis. This track-based setup is a well executed tool useful at all levels of photography. We can’t wait to see the arch-based dolly that is teased at the end of the demo video.
Component walk through of the dolly:
[vimeo=http://vimeo.com/17289279]
Short film featuring shots taken with the dolly:
[vimeo=http://vimeo.com/15750376]
[Thanks Tyler]
| 21
| 21
|
[
{
"comment_id": "223607",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T20:11:24",
"content": "pretty good",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223621",
"author": "Cap'n awesome",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T20:17:56",
"content": "Not trying to be a creep but did anyone else notice the naked woman at 2:58 in the second video?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223672",
"author": "Nathan",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T20:41:40",
"content": "Great job on the dolly and the video is sweet, good tune too!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223755",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T20:59:02",
"content": "i have used modified garage door openers before for str8 tracks but i never found a solution for circular tracks beforesmart! … but bending all that tubing so there perfectly parallel must be a pain even for a machine",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223832",
"author": "tulcod",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T21:31:37",
"content": "Wow, you must have invested weeks of work into that little video. Good job!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223872",
"author": "raidscsi",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T21:52:28",
"content": "Second video is NSFW because of a .5 second clip which I don’t think added anything to the video. Too bad.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223943",
"author": "Bill",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T22:25:21",
"content": "@ raidsciHuh? I didn’t see anything NSFW. What are you talking about?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224082",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T23:31:04",
"content": "Nice project but the camerawork combined with the music in that first video makes me slightly seasick after a while.@Bill I think he’s just messing with your mind, but even if it had hard core porn for .5 secs I can’t imagine a workplace where they’d notice and made an issue.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224342",
"author": "Greig",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T01:03:04",
"content": "@bill where do you work, that nude still life painting would be considered offensive subject matter, especially since the video isn’t about this nor does it feature extensively..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224541",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:05:16",
"content": "Timecode? I still don’t see it. You not yanking my chain too are you Greig?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224630",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:37:24",
"content": "Nevermind, 3rd time’s a charm.Eh, it’s so low key it’s easy to miss. I’d be hard pressed to believe it could be used as the basis to can somebody.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224995",
"author": "buttercross",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T03:55:31",
"content": "This may sound kind of dumb, but that is a seriously awesome paint job. I thought it was anodized aluminium until I saw it was made out of wood. Secondly, this combined with a greenscreen could make for some really crazy effects. Even just over exposing the pictures could make for a pretty cool matrix type scene.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225271",
"author": "dye",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T05:05:32",
"content": "I completely fell in love with this video. I can’t believe he spent the time to compile all those photos together. I can’t wait to build this someday.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225339",
"author": "dazzam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T05:15:07",
"content": "@BiOzZ But that’s one of the beauties of his creation, the rails don’t ‘have’ to be ‘exactly’ parallel. You will note the slide, that sticks out the other side has a rail similar to (or the same as) some filing cabinets.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225563",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T06:32:44",
"content": "@dazzameven the slightest jitter in a timelapse rig with make a shaky final result that can cause headaches",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225576",
"author": "RBRat3",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T06:38:18",
"content": "Hmm I wonder how steep of a grade this could climb, It would be neat to see it scale a mountain in a time-lapse.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227271",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T15:57:38",
"content": "2nd video IS safe for work if you dont work in a country ran by prudes and Puritans afraid of the human body.It’s fricking art people, please pull the stick out of your rear ends.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227279",
"author": "Brian Grabski",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T15:58:47",
"content": "@ buttercrossThanks for noticing the paint job!@ RBRat3This version needs to run on somewhat lever ground, otherwise the wheel tends to slip under the weight of the dolly. The new version has a completely redesigned drive train and wheel assembly that allows it to climb up any pitch, including arches and corkscrews. See the sample footage at the very end of the 1st video.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230936",
"author": "Ozzy_Coff",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T05:51:13",
"content": "Makes me wonder if a far greater being with a slower sense of time sees the human race as a virus that is covering the world. Some religious text once said go forth and multiply… just like viruses, what lies in wait for the human race in the future?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232878",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T13:42:54",
"content": "Do the taliban even have jobs where you can access the internet and vimeo?But whatever, that’s pretty pathetic to even notice.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "385746",
"author": "GBSJ",
"timestamp": "2011-04-25T11:27:27",
"content": "Cool Time Lapse Video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_F00y_O0sk0",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.312595
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/30/pencil-balancer-a-bit-noisy-for-desk-use/
|
Pencil Balancer A Bit Noisy For Desk Use
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"balance",
"dynamic vision sensor",
"nxp2103",
"pencil",
"servo"
] |
Who wouldn’t want to install
this little bot as your newest pencil holder
? Place a pencil tip-down and it will keep it from falling using two motors. There is a Dynamic Vision Sensor for each axis that provides feedback, but it’s not the same as using a camera. These sensors pick up changes in pixel contrast, outputting a positive or negative number based on the direction the pencil is beginning to fall. An NXP2103 running at 64 MHz reads in the values and drives the pair of servo motors accordingly.
If you’re interested in the nitty-gritty the full paper is available from the page linked above. It goes into great detail about the algorithm used, and includes plots and histograms showing the data capture during a balancing session. Or you can skip the eggheaded exercises and watch the video after the break.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9UngTdngY4&w=470]
[via
ycombinator
]
| 22
| 22
|
[
{
"comment_id": "223244",
"author": "WutanG",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T18:26:15",
"content": "I was just thinking of the possibilities if you could scale this thing up! This would be fun if you could scale it all the way up for a person. Then sell it to the Tomato juice company V8 for a witty commercial. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223268",
"author": "Masta Squidge",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T18:33:24",
"content": "Scaling this up is easy, try balancing a pencil on a fingertip, then try balancing a broom on your nose.The broom is easier to do.Balancing larger objects is somewhat easy by comparison.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223280",
"author": "Masta Squidge",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T18:36:03",
"content": "I am just wondering if it is possible to get the accuracy tight enough to stabilize the pencils so that the motion is not as erratic.I imagine you would need finer control over the servos? Then again I am not exactly an engineer.If you could manage to get this thing scaled DOWN and accurate/quiet enough with cheap enough parts this thing would make an amazing desk toy in the future.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223391",
"author": "ferdi",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T19:05:48",
"content": "mmm thats a compecate way to store you pancil richt up more simple way blok off wood dril a holle in it place your pancil in the hole and its balancd to and the noce is zero",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223433",
"author": "RussWill",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T19:22:11",
"content": "Masta Squidge, the erratic behavior is because the function is oscillating. It needs a PID algorithm.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223466",
"author": "Daniel N.",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T19:26:14",
"content": "RussWill, this is using a PD loop at 500Hz, the I component isn’t necessary for a system like this. Its probably oscillating because of the limited speed of the cameras and servos relative to the rapid movement of the pencil.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223522",
"author": "DarkFader",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T19:45:16",
"content": "hmm.. inverted pendulum in 2 axes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223701",
"author": "Nathan",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T20:50:39",
"content": "@Masta Squidge – That’s what I was thinking.Its a great device but it would be good to try and reduce the erratic movement.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224071",
"author": "svofski",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T23:26:15",
"content": "If the system is tuned well, the pen would appear standing straight up, almost without visible movement.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224338",
"author": "Jimmy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T01:01:44",
"content": "This is much more impressive than the inverted pendulum demonstration many of us did in school. You’d have a fighting change at trying to balance those long rods on your finger — with a pencil it’s hopeless (at least for me).The PID controller is a great “first cut” controller because there’s easy physical intuition to how it works, and indeed it works well for many, many systems. For some systems it doesn’t work very well, however, especially if you have sensor or process noise you’d like to attenuate.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224516",
"author": "-HMav",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T01:53:06",
"content": "If it was driven with voice coils like the head in a HDD it would be quiet and quick enough to seem motionless, maybe the lens positioners from a couple old cdrom drives could be hacked?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224611",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:25:12",
"content": "@svofski, it looks like the feedback for this balancer is a pair of cameras – would be very difficult to do unless its a very high dpi camera",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224881",
"author": "Rob Wentworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T03:18:07",
"content": "Not two “ordinary” cameras… The “cameras” described in the linked web page are analog “retinas” that detect and report contrast changes of changed pixels only, at up to hundreds of “frames” per second, giving a small enough quantity of output data to be processed with only a small processing load. That is what allows detection speed fast enough to balance a pencil, which is too small for a human to balance.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224884",
"author": "Rob Wentworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T03:19:56",
"content": "… and the “cameras” are only 128 pixels wide — re really just analog motion detector arrays…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "225338",
"author": "seanfalloy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T05:14:46",
"content": "I think the erratic movement makes for a neat display of how it works. I dont know if the prosesor is just to slow or if its just bad math or just done on purpose but its much more interesting to watch than something perfectly balanced.Nice Work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227233",
"author": "Jerome Demers",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T15:44:08",
"content": "I think that is funny!What is impressive is using 2 cameras to see the movement instead of encoders or pots.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227369",
"author": "ewan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T16:27:29",
"content": "@robwentworthi know loads of jugglers who can balance itens smaller than a pencil on their nose. teaspoons are quite popular. but i have seen a few people balancing cigarettes and oncethere even one guy who balances a juggling club on the top of his head, where he can’t actualy see it!!i read an article in Cascade (the european jugglers journal) a few years back that explained that the movements that a juggler makes are actually faster than the ammount of time it takes for the the brain to comunicate with the muscles. the cited a principle called “dynamic noise” that was apparently also used in the design of aircraft wings. apparently just adding a small random wiggle makes the whole system more stable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227504",
"author": "psuedonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T17:09:24",
"content": "@EwanThe reason this works is that the ‘random’ but predictable noise can be compensated for by the control algorithm. A random, even if smaller, unpredictable noise is much harder to compensate for.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "229068",
"author": "Harvie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T22:30:20",
"content": "2psuedonymous:> A random, even if smaller, unpredictable noise is much harder to compensate for.I think we can use it as RNG in cryptography :-)i also guess that it’s possible to make it more stable using proper algorithms. but if it was 100% stable it would look like any other pencil holder, so the motion is cool – almost like lava lamp :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "229891",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T01:21:37",
"content": "Very cool project and I do agree with making operate more quietly as well as an algorithm to stabilize the pencil. The issue I have is with the writer/creator making poor comparisons.What is most bothersome about the article is the claim about how they are simulating an animal (human) eye to get data, but they use optical sensors at 90* of each other. What animal has eyes at 90* apart?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230081",
"author": "kak",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T01:54:05",
"content": "a 10 cent pencil will cost 15$ a month to run :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "232359",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T11:37:27",
"content": "Scale it up to a person? I can already stand up and don’t need to be madly corrected by external devices to keep standing up.Well maybe after a great many hours or drinks I might :)So scale it up and put a palace guard on it at the end of his shift you mean, or a brit or irishman when pubs close?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.254731
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/30/unlocking-rs232-serial-comm-on-a-multimeter/
|
Unlocking RS232 Serial Comm On A Multimeter
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Tool Hacks"
] |
[
"data logging",
"multimeter",
"rs232",
"serial"
] |
[Craig] cracked open a multimeter to
unlock RS232 serial communications
that can be used for data logging. There’s a couple of things that make this possible. First of all, the multimeter’s processor is not covered in a black epoxy blob, leaving the pins exposed for hacking. Second, the chip model is known and [Craig] was able to get his hands on the datasheet. One of the pins enables serial output when pulsed low. Touching it to V- even turns on an RS232 icon on the display, as seen above. To make this accessible without opening the case a momentary push button can be added, as well as connector for signal output, and a bit of parsing on the PC side to handle incoming data.
| 20
| 18
|
[
{
"comment_id": "223084",
"author": "Dan J.",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T17:42:14",
"content": "Could you simply tie the pin to V- to have it permanently enabled or does it require a momentary pulse?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223130",
"author": "David",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T17:53:55",
"content": "that isolated RS232=>USB module would be a handy circuit to have around.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223140",
"author": "NatureTM",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T17:57:03",
"content": "Do they sell another model for more money that includes this functionality? I understand the economic reasoning, but it still bothers me when a company sells two tiers of products where one is merely a crippled version of the other.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "513787",
"author": "canid",
"timestamp": "2011-11-20T06:40:30",
"content": "Consider instead the perspective that for the intrepid, you are potentially getting a better value than you know when your device has undocumented functionality.",
"parent_id": "223140",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "223212",
"author": "drew",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T18:16:47",
"content": "@NatureTMi have no problem with a company selling crippled products as long as they dont try to stop them being hacked back to full functionality",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223225",
"author": "Kevin",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T18:21:12",
"content": "Operating on the assumption that the pinout of a CyrusTek blob is the same as that of a QFP (which seems likely to be valid from his picture here:http://flashingleds.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/sda2010.jpg), it seems like it would be possible to compile a list of pin counts, connection patterns, and voltages/oscilloscope traces/DSO patterns that would identify a CyrusTek controller with RS232. (A wiki for cheap DMMs describing which ones are using the same ICs would be awesome.) Then, scraping of some soldermask or using exposed pads, we could access the data lines.Craig, could you please try to find where the RS232 lines on your meter with the RS232 If the they go to pin 45 of the black blob under the question mark, we might be on to something.Also, what is the maximum resistance through which this pulse can be delivered? If I could try this with, say, a 470k or 2.2M resistor, I’d be much less worried about damaging my meter.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223234",
"author": "MRE",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T18:22:43",
"content": "It would appear that the pin in question is a mode toggle pin, thus a momentary button.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223237",
"author": "Kevin",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T18:23:47",
"content": "Sigh, the URL parser got the ) at the end of my parenthetical note. The URL is:http://flashingleds.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/sda2010.jpg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223663",
"author": "Kevin",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T20:38:46",
"content": "@MRE – Yes, I understand that the connection is momentary. However, why not put a resistor in series with the switch like this:o T\r\n | ___ ---\r\n '----|___|--o o--.\r\n | |\r\n --- 2.2M |\r\n --- |\r\n | |\r\n === ===\r\n GND GND\r\n\r\n\r\n o T\r\n | ---\r\n '----o o---.\r\n |\r\n |\r\n ===\r\n GND(created by AACircuit, best viewed in fixed-width)The second circuit, if accidentally connected to an output pin driving high, could cause damage. I don’t imagine that the first circuit would.A capacitor is recommended by the datasheet, probably to slow transition time and reduce switch bounce.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224214",
"author": "MRE",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T00:00:57",
"content": "@kevin ahh yeah. Good point.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224217",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T00:02:54",
"content": "Good work… now time to crack open those cheap DMM at home!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224349",
"author": "BronzeG3",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T01:06:08",
"content": "The RSR MY-64 has an epoxy blog labeled ICL 7106, which doesn’t have serial out.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224489",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T01:44:18",
"content": "my radioshack multimeter has isolated rs232 communication (its cool how they isolate it also) it is actually much more useful than it soundsworks great for measuring voltage drop on power supplies over time same with mains supply and temperatureyou can probably even use the amp meter attachment to chart your houses amp use over time!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224579",
"author": "Craig",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:12:46",
"content": "@Kevin – The biggest resistor I have on hand is 120k and the enable pulse still works using that.On my RS232 meter the serial lines trace back to pins 95 & 91, so not the same controller.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224608",
"author": "Mason",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:21:31",
"content": "Ive wanted to make my meter, an Amprobe 30xr-a, usb connective or add an SD data logger to it for a while now, I just cracked it open and it has the es5108d chip.The datasheet has bad news :( all I can do extra to mine without doing a whole lot of work is adding capacitor measurement capability which isn’t terribly worth the work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "227544",
"author": "eisman",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T17:21:49",
"content": "I cracked open my Kleintools MM1000 and found an fs98o24 IC (datasheet:http://www.ic-fortune.com/upload/Download/FS98O24-DS-10_EN.pdf). Looks to support RS232 and has plenty of test points on the PCB. Might be worth a look.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "230139",
"author": "Ren",
"timestamp": "2010-12-02T02:08:43",
"content": "Years ago I bought a Metex M-3640D ($100), it has a RS232 link and software.Another data logging possibility is a Texas Instrument Calculator such as the TI-83 with a TI-Connect port and the TI-CBL (Computer Based Laboratory). The CBL can be purchased at TAS(That Auction Site) for <$40. The CBL will record the data (volts, temp or whatever, the calc will log it which can be downloaded to a PC through the data cable.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "412187",
"author": "linux-works",
"timestamp": "2011-07-01T17:16:28",
"content": "here’s my version of the hack for the ‘vichy vc99’ model dmm:http://www.amb.org/forum/general-diy-discussions-f27/diy-hacking-multimeters-for-rs232-data-logging-output-t1210.htmllonger term, I’m planning to buffer the DMM output by an arduino and have it timestamp and relaythe data via wireless xbee or similar to a remote data host (some pc somewhere else in the house).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "905767",
"author": "heru",
"timestamp": "2012-12-18T10:02:48",
"content": "any hack on sanwa cd800a with FS9711-LP3 inside?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "2958010",
"author": "derri",
"timestamp": "2016-03-18T10:56:42",
"content": "hay heru. do you get any answer of hacking san cd800a with FS9711-LP3",
"parent_id": "905767",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
}
] | 1,760,377,324.419372
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/29/phillip-torrone-answers-your-questions/
|
Phillip Torrone Answers Your Questions
|
Caleb Kraft
|
[
"Interviews"
] |
[
"interview",
"torrone"
] |
September 5th, 2004, [
Phillip Torrone
] posts the
very first article
on a new site called Hackaday.com. He designed our logo, forged our identity, and then moved on to help shape many other hacker friendly groups including
Make magazine
, and
Adafruit technologies
.
We’re going to be interviewing him once we’ve compiled a decent list of questions. We’ve got a few of our own, but we really want to get yours to him. Leave your questions in the comments and we’ll compile the most popular to send along.
[image via
Wired
]
| 71
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "221149",
"author": "SexieWASD",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T00:38:35",
"content": "It’s really only been since 04? It seams like I grew up reading hackaday!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221152",
"author": "alankilian",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T00:42:05",
"content": "How do you feel when comments posted are nasty, negative downers rather than encouraging, positive suggestions?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221157",
"author": "stephendotexe",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T00:53:25",
"content": "What are the inspirations that got you into hacking in the first place? Are there any cool hacks you’d like to someday pull off but don’t have the time or resources to do them? Do you forsee DIY hacking to change in the next 10, 20, or 30 years? If so, what do you see? Thanks!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221158",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T00:55:18",
"content": "What is your favorite type of wire?I’m partial to the trusty copper 22AWG solid-core, but everyone seems to have their own prefs.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221159",
"author": "Matt",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T00:57:09",
"content": "What obstacles do you encounter most frequently in your projects?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221162",
"author": "Physics_Dude",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T00:58:30",
"content": "When and how did you relies your interest for all things related to electronics?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221165",
"author": "Physics_Dude",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T01:00:25",
"content": "When and how did you realise your interest for all things related to electronics?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221167",
"author": "knuckles904",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T01:01:08",
"content": "How do you define a “Hack”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221170",
"author": "Physics_Dude",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T01:06:30",
"content": "When did you first discover what a maker was? What was it like back then?Ps. Double post at 4:58pm, plz fix.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221173",
"author": "Reggie",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T01:13:44",
"content": "How did it feel when you started dev’ing on your first arduino? How about the release of the arduino uno?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221174",
"author": "Pix3l the B1t",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T01:15:39",
"content": "What were your ambitions for this website when you first created it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "224326",
"author": "Pix3l the B1t",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T00:53:55",
"content": "And do you think that your ambition has been fulfilled?",
"parent_id": "221174",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "221190",
"author": "hekilledmywire",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T01:39:34",
"content": "Is that an arduino with a shiel attached in the picture?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221194",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T01:48:07",
"content": "@hekilledmywire — it’s the Wave Shield from adafruit. I know this because I have one in front of me right at this moment…definitely the cheapest way to get half-decent audio (and 5 hours of it!) on an Arduino.Philip: what can you say about the ‘old guard’ type of commenters on here — those who shoot down every hack with something like “pff, I could do that with three capacitors and some pencil-lead resistors”? Do you think it helps keep the quality of accepted submissions high, or do you think it just has a chilling effect?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221196",
"author": "bluewraith",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T01:52:15",
"content": "For those looking to go back to the beginning and read a lot of the older articles, just got to page 637.http://hackaday.com/page/637/Note for future visitors.. as stories get added, the page number will increase.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221203",
"author": "nave.notnilc",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T01:59:06",
"content": "why did you start the site, and how much time did you put into it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221212",
"author": "cde",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T02:08:23",
"content": "Why did you abandon us like so much useless consumer products? Why did you leave us in the hands of this current bunch? WHY!!!???",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221221",
"author": "Volkemon",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T02:19:29",
"content": "@PT- WHAT did you finally hack that has a smile on your face? ;) I have teased you for years on your ‘straight faced’ pics, good to see you almost gleeful.Seriously, all the best in this go.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221232",
"author": "fluidic",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T02:44:29",
"content": "Given a typical electronics workbench and a room full of common consumer electronics to salvage parts from, how would you defend against the zombie horde that’s massing outside the building?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221237",
"author": "d3c4f",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T02:50:05",
"content": "Any specific favorite hacks?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221245",
"author": "mjrippe",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T02:59:51",
"content": "What role do you think the internet has played in [what I see as] the recent widespread interest in hacking/making?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221246",
"author": "Robert",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T03:01:37",
"content": "Not to get too personal, but “What is the deal with you and Lady Ada? Are you an item? Just sharing an apartment? What gives?”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221248",
"author": "Philip",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T03:09:20",
"content": "When I was growing up I read a book you helped write, Flash Enabled. I subsequently dove into learning flash and interaction and followed you through to Make: and so on. Since then, flash has only become more powerful, but it’s also gained a large group of detractors who question its openness and general direction as well as other issues, some more warranted than others. My question is, what do you see as todays most hackable languages, platforms, and most promising technologies to send young people towards a passion for creative hacking and making and how do they promote the concepts of openness, sharing, creativity, and design.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221259",
"author": "Drone",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T03:48:13",
"content": "Question to HaD…“Leave your question in the comments and we’ll compile the most popular to send along.”How do you know which questions are “the most popular”? Questions already asked are not going to be asked again, so it’s not the number of times a question gets asked. You have no way of telling how many times a question gets read; or which questions most readers find popular.So this should really read, “Leave your questions in the comments and HaD will decide which ones to send along.”Notice I even had to correct the grammar in the original sentence. Sheesh…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221281",
"author": "CanDroid",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T04:32:48",
"content": "If someone wanted to learn as much as possible about electronics, to go from being a novice to being capable of completing their own project ideas, what path of topics should they study? Could you recommend a progression of books that you would recommend a novice to read to become competent?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221286",
"author": "samuel",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T04:50:10",
"content": "Are you and Limor dating?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221294",
"author": "gottabethatguy",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T05:06:52",
"content": "Do you still follow the site and if so how do you feel about the direction it has taken recently?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221315",
"author": "Sean",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T05:52:31",
"content": "In terms of prototyping, how do you recommend a hacker with a low budget maintain enough stock in electronic components so that they don’t have to process an internet order for each project they are trying to make? In other words, which electronic components do you consider most vital to making new designs and how do you go about procuring them?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221336",
"author": "Abdul H Hamdy",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T06:37:51",
"content": "How are you so cool without the need for regular warm-ups?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221352",
"author": "Malikaii",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T07:11:51",
"content": "Sean, the answer to this question is pretty easy. There are 2 HUGE resources for used electronics from which to scavenge. First, there are the electronics surplus stores. These places catch the surplus from offices and industrial places before going to the dump, and sell it for peanuts. Then there ishttp://www.freecycle.org. There is a freecycle for almost every locale. Go check it out. You’ll have to strip the components yourself, though…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221353",
"author": "ayo",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T07:13:25",
"content": "the bones have softened during processing, and are edible",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221354",
"author": "Jimmy Hartnett",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T07:13:44",
"content": "@fluidicI also think that same question (repeated in paraphrase here)If you were in a room with any tools and parts/salvage bins, how would you defend yourself against the Zombie Horde??",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221357",
"author": "s",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T07:28:05",
"content": "Do you foresee that the (forced sometimes)trend in some of the big technological industries along the past years to be more hacker friendly will continue at this pace, incresase/decrease in the future?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221381",
"author": "Branno",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T08:36:17",
"content": "Speaking for the rest of the beginner hackers out there, do you have any suggestions for projects or just general suggestions to help us get into this stuff and build our skills? It can sometimes be a little intimidating for the uninitiated.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221384",
"author": "Julius",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T08:42:27",
"content": "What is your most outstanding hack you ever could lay your hands on?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221391",
"author": "Piku",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T09:08:04",
"content": "Tea or coffee?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221408",
"author": "mowcius",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T10:14:39",
"content": "“Tea or coffee?”Hahaha!What are your opinions on the state of consumer electronics in today’s society?Do you own in iPod?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221438",
"author": "Haku",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T11:06:03",
"content": "Solder – leaded or unleaded?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221446",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T11:32:35",
"content": "@Sean: Tim Hunkin has some useful tips on sourcing components here (contacts are a bit UK specific though):http://www.timhunkin.com/81_components.htmThe whole site makes fascinating reading if you’ve got a few hours to spare one day.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221448",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T11:39:24",
"content": "1. Do you always have an urge to hack / create something or do you suffer from periods of something similar to “writers block”?And kind of a follow up question:2. Where do you find your best sources of inspiration? (Maybe watching TV, after a few beers, on the toilet?).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221451",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T11:42:26",
"content": "A few more:3. What has been the most enjoyable hack you have worked on from a personal point of view (the most rewarding).4. What has been the most useful hack you have worked on from another persons point of view. Maybe some kind of technology that helps people or improves someones quality of life.5. Hardware or software?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221453",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T11:44:13",
"content": "6. Have any of your hacks lead to commercial success? If so you can expand with experiences of taking it to market.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221738",
"author": "Grovenstien",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T13:09:20",
"content": "How do you think hacking technology has, does and will affect us in the past, present and future?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "222013",
"author": "Dr. Nefario",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T13:26:27",
"content": "What would you say to someone new to this scene?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "222240",
"author": "skab",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T14:27:09",
"content": "Have you ever eaten yourself?http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turr%C3%B3n",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "222321",
"author": "Ryan",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T14:49:41",
"content": "We are all busy people, so what projects have you had floating around in your head that you just can’t get enough time to work on?And how do you manage your time for all the various things going on around you?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "222361",
"author": "ral",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T15:03:14",
"content": "Do you have favorite “specialty” tools? I’m quite partial to the Stripmaster wire strippers by Ideal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "222497",
"author": "Glenn",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T15:41:55",
"content": "What are your top three favorite tools when working on something?What are the top three (affordable) tools you would recommend a newcomer to get so they can get the best start into this field?Please explain why with each item.—And, you’re bumping uglies with Limor? Right? Amirite? Just kidding, you don’t have to ask that one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "222530",
"author": "gottabethatguy",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T15:52:59",
"content": "Linux or windows?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "222566",
"author": "siddharth tyagi",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T16:06:16",
"content": "is thereany way to install android apps on symbian or any native symbian shell which can run on symbian and let android iphone apps run on it .THANKS.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "222597",
"author": "OXiD",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T16:15:28",
"content": "Why did you left HaD?Will you be coming back, and post Real Hacks?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.506474
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/06/knitting-machine-hack-by-keypad-emulation/
|
Knitting Machine Hack By Keypad Emulation
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Arduino Hacks",
"home hacks"
] |
[
"brother",
"keypad",
"knitting",
"travis goodspeed"
] |
[Travis Goodspeed] and Hackaday alum [Fabienne Serriere] joined forces to
develop an alternative interface for a knitting machine
. They’re working with the Brother KH-930E machine. We saw [Becky Stern]
use the same model
by manipulating data on an emulated floppy drive for the device. [Travis] and [Fabienne] went a different route, and are emulating the keypad using an Arduino and a set of transistors.
They started by reverse engineering the keypad matrix using a continuity tester. Once they worked out the column and row layout they connected each to an NPN transistor. The Arduino sketch simulates button presses to set knitting bits for each row, with just one reset button for user input. This can be used to send data from a PC, or as a standalone system. Either way, it’s not only a great way to add functionality to the kitting machine, but a good example of how to interface with the keypad on just about any device.
| 3
| 3
|
[
{
"comment_id": "261619",
"author": "Life2Death",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T02:21:22",
"content": "This is what I thought about doing to a sewing machine before cheaper USB ones came out",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "263808",
"author": "fbz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T10:34:30",
"content": "It’s just the KH-930, doesn’t need the E at the end to be a hackable one, and from the research I did the other compatible models with the mods we did are KH940, KH950i, KH965i & KH970.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274842",
"author": "antonio",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T16:58:04",
"content": "wow.. this is a very good project, i dont know speak english, but i know when some project is good, and this poject is one o themregards from mexico.excuse me for my bad english, but my female teacher of english is stupid.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.540304
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/06/star-trek-inspired-pocket-doors/
|
Star Trek Inspired Pocket Doors
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"home hacks"
] |
[
"air compressor",
"door",
"pneumatic",
"sliding",
"star trek"
] |
Do you have enough confidence in your hacking abilities to build a project into the walls of your home? [Marc] used his skills to build
an air-powered sliding door
for his bedroom. It is similar to the sliding door you’d find on the Enterprise, two sections that slide nicely into the wall to let you pass. Although the picture above shows the internals, he followed through and ended up with a fully finished room that looks fantastic. A compressor in the attic provides the pressure necessary to move the door sections. It is automated, but uses a button press or keypad combination to run instead of detecting motion. Of course, since he’s using a PIC microcontroller to drive the system there’s always room for future changes. Check out how great the finished look is in the video after the break.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVtB2Lrd1vg&w=470]
| 60
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "258927",
"author": "Jim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:21:25",
"content": "Me Like….",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259059",
"author": "BLuRry",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:24:13",
"content": "Epic win. Good stuff, Marc!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259071",
"author": "Digital",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:27:28",
"content": "it even has the sound! there is no way that my woman would ever let me do this :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "911083",
"author": "Athol",
"timestamp": "2012-12-30T00:59:27",
"content": "Tis easier to beg forgivness, than tis to seek permission.",
"parent_id": "259071",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "259073",
"author": "octel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:28:02",
"content": "but what if he suddenly needs to reroute some power conduits because of a radiation leak from a plasma fire might destabilize a collection of barrels containing explosive thruster fuel??that access hatch is quite small…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259086",
"author": "Nomad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:31:00",
"content": "@Digital: you need to find a way to raise the WAF (Woman/Wife Acceptance Factor)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259135",
"author": "japkin",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:43:46",
"content": "Nice job, Marc. Now you just need to add the “shhhh” interface:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mc7ygWkRsFY",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259137",
"author": "Derek",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:43:56",
"content": "What if something get stuck in the way? Possible consider slip gears/belts to deliver enough power to close the doors but not enough to crush someone, something or fuck up the AWESOME design.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259159",
"author": "Kyle",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:50:10",
"content": "I want to see this thing shut on a watermelon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259195",
"author": "fartface",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:59:03",
"content": "Oh wow he INVENTED it! Wow!!!!To bad there has been commercial offerings for at least a decade of the exact same thing.I have installed pocket doors like that several times at homes where the limited mobility people live.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259211",
"author": "Hackius",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:06:14",
"content": "Invented? This is a hack site",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259227",
"author": "Brock_Lee",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:09:24",
"content": "Pretty nifty but, considering he has the perfect spot for a motion sensor (the vent) I wonder why he didn’t include one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259232",
"author": "ENKI-][",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:10:21",
"content": "If he put the button into a rigid floor mat, he’d have the same kind of system as the Enterprise (in TOS) — and the same kind of system that is built into the front of the cheap-o supermarkets that don’t want to spend on proper motion sensors. He could repurpose the button on the doorframe to be a doorbell, and use a single-user speech recognition unit (the dedicated hardware ones) to recognize the command “enter” to unlock the door and allow the button-press mat to function (like in TNG). It’s a damned good start, though, and kudos on the use of pneumatics (rather than the easier but less TOS-y solution of electromagnets or motors-and-pushbutton-switches).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259240",
"author": "Bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:12:35",
"content": "He hacked the door…in half and put it on sliders. Also known as a sliding door. The part I don’t understand is why he didn’t put a motion sensor for automatic open and closing functions (also to prevent crushing things). What really will suck is when a motor/slider/gear breaks. He’ll have to cut out his wall.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259261",
"author": "Marshall",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:17:48",
"content": "This is pretty cool.I’m detecting a lot of jealousy from other commenters.Also people not detecting the word HACK in the name of this site. You can’t expect HACKS to be FINISHED PRODUCTS.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259311",
"author": "raidscsi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:31:21",
"content": "STILL LIVES WITH HIS MOTHER?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259343",
"author": "Panikos",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:38:31",
"content": "I love it. Good job, very nicely done as well.Thanks for sharing",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259362",
"author": "Charper",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:41:32",
"content": "Very cool.It’s not a safety lecture, but I also wonder what precautions he put in to prevent getting pinched in the door. Or, for that matter, stuck when his uC power dies. There’s nothing mentioned on his blog.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259406",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:52:28",
"content": "i guess its my computer sucking, but the video is going nuts and out of sync. if that air lock sound is happening exactly when the door opens/closes, WIN",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259439",
"author": "Pa55w0rD",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T20:04:29",
"content": "@jeditalian it is happening exactly when the door opens/closes",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259490",
"author": "R. Barrabas",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T20:21:29",
"content": "Um… it’s a cool hack and all, but I have to wonder if this could be a hazard if you have to get out of the room quickly… if there’s a fire, for instance.How easy is it for a (panicked, fleeing) person to force the doors open?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259545",
"author": "M. Roy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T20:33:50",
"content": "When you shoot the control panel with a phasor, does it permanently seal the door or does it open wide?I guess it depends on who’s firing the phasor and the context of that episode..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259571",
"author": "micky",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T20:39:01",
"content": "What happenes if there is a power outage and ur outside ur room. How do u get in",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259579",
"author": "Wayne",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T20:41:32",
"content": "If you want to be more like the original series, all you need to do is hire a stagehand to open and close the door for you.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259662",
"author": "ferdi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T21:03:20",
"content": "sombody no this is a 1why doori sea no controle panel or why to open itsafty no when your room is on fire you have a bick probleem",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259677",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T21:06:16",
"content": "i disabled some crap from starting up in msconfig, like cs5 stuff, since i dont really meet the minimum requirements, and now it works fine, and that door is made of WIN",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259709",
"author": "Ben Wright",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T21:15:04",
"content": "I like the ideal of the door and how it’s air powered but I don’t understand why he didn’t think he needed a header above the door. Most people know that if you put a window where a window wasn’t before, or the window gets wider than you need a new header. I guess if the door stops working we will know why.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259781",
"author": "compukidmike",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T21:27:50",
"content": "@ Ben WrightIt depends on whether or not it’s a load bearing wall. You only need a header if the wall supports the ceiling/upper level.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259829",
"author": "mengineer",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T21:46:52",
"content": "I noticed people talking about the safety of getting caught between the doors but what about that fact that he cut out the header over the door,the 2 header support studs, and the 2 full run studs along the header supports. One way or another, be it directly or indirectly, that is a load bearing wall, supporting the weight of the frame/structure/floor above. If the house was built with a full header load support in place(like there was before he cut it out) it was required to support the structure(if the header was just nailed to studs on the side of opening for a place to nail door, chances are it wasn’t load bearing). Building code requires a header/double beams over doors and windows for a reason. Now that hes removed supports of the structure, if it hasn’t happened already, the area above/around that door will start to settle/sag. Along with this is going to come cracked drywall,un-level floors, and his sliding door(and window/door above it if there is one) to “pinch”, not open/close or jam up. Just another reason you need to be sure you know what your getting into, after all you wouldn’t run a 50A 230V circuit if you didn’t know what gauge wire to use/how to wire, so why would you rip out the supports of your house.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259937",
"author": "The Steven",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:12:33",
"content": "Um, why not mount a PIR sensor in the vent over the door and make it automatic…Then when it doesn’t work, and you walk into the door, you can add it to your very own blooper-reel.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259975",
"author": "svofski",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:22:24",
"content": "Awesome! Who is going to be the first one to build Descent-style iris doors?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260001",
"author": "Mikey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:29:14",
"content": "I understand the need for security, but surely, this is the kind of thing you could make automatic with a sensor, and just turn on/off the automaticness with a web-ui or an auto-lock when you leave home, etc…The WHOLE FUCKING POINT of startrek doors are that they’re automatic, NOT that they go into the wall — going into the wall is just a safety measure (because if they automatically swung open, it could hit someone!)see:http://www.google.com/images?q=riker+facepalmfor more information.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260124",
"author": "djrussell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:39:36",
"content": "as cool as this is, i would not want a compressor in the attic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260180",
"author": "svofski",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:51:10",
"content": "All of the automatic-wanting people of course realize that the doors will do quite a lot of unexpected opening at the times most inappropriate?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260429",
"author": "Knuckleball",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T23:48:28",
"content": "Somebody give this man his Nobel Prize!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260507",
"author": "leadacid",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T00:05:28",
"content": "I do worry about the removal of the door header too. It was hard to tell in the picture posted here at HaD, but on his blog he clearly has a header in the “before” pictures and not after.That said though, I do really like his control diagram posted on the control door. Very clearly laid out and easy to understand.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260599",
"author": "MRE",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T00:26:40",
"content": "In support of mengineer: without headers to brace the studs, they will bow due to load, causing the mentioned settling and cracking.In addition, braces and headers act as timber drops. Lets say in a fire that the drywall goes pretty fast. Further suppose that one of the overhead beams burns loose (common. Its way hotter up there than at waist level.) If the timber drops over the doorframe sans header, it couldjam the door. Headers bear the load, allowing you to force the door. Braces between studs provide a safety pocket at about chest height, under which you could crawl in a collapse.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260715",
"author": "Cyberteque",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T01:02:25",
"content": "Great stuff!He probably didn’t go for floor switches or motion sensors because he has pets or small children!One of my dogs ripped half a supermarket door off it’s track saving a very small child’s head from being crushed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260765",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T01:16:09",
"content": "Wow this is the next best thing to sex, not that a trekkie would know.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260924",
"author": "Jerome Demers",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T01:57:15",
"content": "Just the sound it makes it AWESOME!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "261613",
"author": "DJ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T02:20:35",
"content": "@ mengineer and the other wannabe construction experts:You all need to visit a few job sites and learn what DOORWAY headers are really for. They are NOT load bearing, they do NOT keep floors from sagging, and they are NOT timber drops. In fact, residential doorway headers do nothing more than give you something to screw drywall to above the door and ensure even spacing to install the jamb. IN POCKET STYLE DOORS THEY ARE NOT NECESSARY! The steel track you see the doors running on usually contains a 1 1/4″ strip to screw your board to above the door. Spacing between studs is left empty. I have been framing for 9 years and have never seen a pocket door ‘fail’ in any of the fantastic ways imagined here.+1 for an awesome hack! I’m doing my house next! :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "262152",
"author": "barry99705",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T03:45:58",
"content": "@DJThis is hackaday! We can’t have facts and actual engineering get in the way of the armchair engineers!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265660",
"author": "Hadacat",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T17:03:37",
"content": "Awesome hack.The only thing I would be worry about is the cutting of support and lack of some safety features, that others pointed out already. But never the less, still kick ass.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266955",
"author": "Kaboof",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:03:41",
"content": "It’s great but I think the sound could get annoying after a few weeks..But about all the people talking about safety and small kids and pets.. you know it(1) closes really slowly so any intelligent pet would not be able to get caught between(2) works with air pressure and I would assume it doesn’t put much pressure on the doors so it shouldn’t burst a melon or a baby.And (3) are you all leaving your babys alone at home crawling from room to room?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "268229",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:56:32",
"content": "@bob nope, that’s why he added the control panel to shut off the air system. This will effectively unlock the door.@fartface congratulations on your commercial solution, you will maybe one day realise what this site is made for.A PIR sensor would have been great though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "269368",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T01:30:00",
"content": "Another chime in for safety… those air pistons can generate hundreds of pounds of force.It needs something like those sensors on BMW windows that detect a finger in them and don’t close – or an IR sensor strip to “not close” if any object is in the way. Think elevator door.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "269892",
"author": "DMackey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T02:05:08",
"content": "That’s just what I need… ok WANT. :)Great project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "272441",
"author": "addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T09:42:07",
"content": "That scared the living hell outta me. Its 2:37 am so i have headphones in, That thing shrieks like a banshee Jumped straight out of my chair. I can only immagine what this guys wife said when he finally put the house back together and she heard it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274933",
"author": "djrussell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:22:57",
"content": "another thought about the compressor: is it being drained regularly to get rid of condensation in the tank? it’s supposed to be done daily. as it’s always pressurized, there’s a good chance that a failure could be catastrophic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275330",
"author": "qwed88",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T19:04:16",
"content": "I would love to do this, but I don’t think it would be safe with my daughter around.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "278044",
"author": "Jim",
"timestamp": "2010-12-09T05:36:17",
"content": "Yes! A thousand times, yes!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.625275
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/05/hot-resistors-used-for-color-changing-clock-face/
|
Hot Resistors Used For Color-changing Clock Face
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"chemistry hacks",
"clock hacks"
] |
[
"heat",
"paint",
"resistor"
] |
[Sprite_TM] built a full
clock display using thermochromic paint
. This picks up where he left off with his
paint-based 7-segment display
prototype. He never really saw that design through to a finished project, but he recently came across the leftover paint and decided to do something with it. Instead of making thin traces on a PCB he’s heating up resistors mounted on protoboard. Each resistor has been coated with the black/light grey paint after getting a rough sanding on the tops of the packages. Run around 500mW through a segment and they heat up enough to change the paint to light grey. Once shut off, the segments gradually fade over the next 60 seconds.
| 38
| 37
|
[
{
"comment_id": "252417",
"author": "Convi",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T20:04:42",
"content": "How about sticking it in a nice project box and using painted resistive wire instead of resistors? You could make a nixie-tube-esque display that way!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252426",
"author": "MRC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T20:09:38",
"content": "fascinating.not exactly the most power-efficient way to display something.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252478",
"author": "Jeff",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T20:27:52",
"content": "leave off the paint, and make a clock that can only be seen with a thermal imaging camera. If you get the resistors hot enough for shortwave IR, a web-cam w/o the IR filter might see it too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252491",
"author": "Tuckie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T20:30:59",
"content": "What about building a baffle with a low power fan behind it? The airflow should decrease the cooldown time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252705",
"author": "localroger",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T20:48:09",
"content": "They used to make incandescent 7-segment displays that looked a lot like Nixie tubes. They were called Numatrons. I think the basic idea here would have worked better with Nichrome wire; you’d get the paint changing temperature with less current and it would cool down faster.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253174",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T22:50:04",
"content": "What time is it?Must be time for another fugly, useless, pedestrian, oh noes – not another freaking clock project, on hack-a-day.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253256",
"author": "art",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T23:11:44",
"content": "I’ve been following Hack a Day for a couple of weeks now. Why are so many people who leave comments on this blog such flaming assholes? (I’m talking to you, vonskippy)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253271",
"author": "Hirudinea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T23:17:40",
"content": "What, no video?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253306",
"author": "Anti-vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T23:23:52",
"content": "Actually vonskippy, it may be time for negative people like you to stop wasting bandwidth here and do something useful with your life… no?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253376",
"author": "Karl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T23:42:17",
"content": "To help with the cool down time, run the resistors full blast until the paint changes color, then do PWM at a rate that just keeps them above the color change temperature.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253566",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T00:28:50",
"content": "vonskippy, its settled my next submission will be a clock, just for you, posted on instructables",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253672",
"author": "Sprite_tm",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T00:50:33",
"content": "vonskippy: If you’ve got a better idea to do with a display that has some trouble changing even once a minute, please speak up and I’ll see if I can submit that :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253806",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T00:59:32",
"content": "@osgeld – I’m thinking you would have a hard time making it fugly.@sprite_tm – maybe a analog type clock with 12 radians (each with one short and one long arm). That way you could let the old one fade slowly as you heat up the new one – since they’re 5 minutes apart it might look neat.But come on guys – clocks are the “hello world” of electronics. Everyone’s done at least 6 or 7 in their tadpole years. It’s time to move on. Especially since practically every device made has a clock built in AND everyone carries a mobile so whats the point.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1140367",
"author": "DonB",
"timestamp": "2013-12-20T16:38:13",
"content": "New tadpoles are born every year, and they need somewhere to start. You may have outgrown clocks, but clock projects will be at the level of a lot of new folks.The same is true for a lot of other “not a hack” posts. If all that ever gets featured is the truly elaborate hacks that can only be done with a big budget, it just guarantees that the community here will stagnate, grown old, and then wither.",
"parent_id": "253806",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "253835",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T01:06:26",
"content": "heh thanks :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253908",
"author": "Frank",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T01:25:34",
"content": "@vonskippyIt’s not about the clock, it’s more about this type of paint, which I’ve never heard about until now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253968",
"author": "kernelcode",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T01:38:25",
"content": "@vonskippyI like making clocks, because time is a universal data source which is constantly changing and has some meaning.Say you built this neat display – what would you show on it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "254218",
"author": "Panq",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T02:19:21",
"content": "Nichrome wire (as has been suggested), but behind a layer of something that is opaque and conducts heat (aluminium foil?), so that it looks like a smooth black panel when powered off.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "254253",
"author": "Akoi Meexx",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T02:26:52",
"content": "@vonskippy Isn’t the hello world of electronics a blinking LED? I’m pretty sure that was my first project. :p",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "254282",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T02:33:25",
"content": "@Akoi Meexxhell yes XDwhen you first throw together your first MCU or 555 or transistor circuit and you see that LED blink for the first time there is no greater feeling XP",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "254386",
"author": "r_d",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T02:58:22",
"content": "@vonskippy:A clock is the perfect way to show off a novel means of displaying information.The clock isn’t the hack here. You’re focusing on something that’s totally irrelevant.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "254407",
"author": "r_d",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T03:00:30",
"content": "Also, I am disappointed at the lack of video. :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "254592",
"author": "ChalkBored",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T03:34:01",
"content": "Use a bunch of mood rings instead.Then you can have a multicolor display.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "257033",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T10:52:06",
"content": "You don’t “run 500mW” through something. You would apply a voltage, which causes a current to “run through it”. This would be in mA (mili amperes).Power (measured in Watts) is the product of this. It is the work done, the heat generated. You don’t run power through things.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "257055",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T10:56:34",
"content": "Also for “hello world” electronics, one of my first memories was building a speaker at school. Way before we got our hands on PICs or even LEDs.A cone made out of cardboard, a tube made out of cardboard and attached to the cone. Wrap a wire around the tube and wait for the single magnet to make its way around to your table. Then apply a signal to the wire using a sig gen. Beeeeep.That was pretty cool back in the day!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "257145",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T11:14:39",
"content": "Pedestrian comment is pedestrian.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258043",
"author": "Ekaj",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T15:12:05",
"content": "Is there a video? I can’t see one on this browser.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258247",
"author": "qwerty",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T15:54:13",
"content": "Interesting, I never heard of such paint.Does it react to low power lasers? This could be used to build a high persistence screen for servo driven lasers.Does it also exist for higher temperatures? If yes it may be painted on critical components (power transistors, etc) to get immediate visual feedback if they heat too much.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258712",
"author": "neo-vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T17:48:01",
"content": "osgeld:my next submission will be a clock, just for you, posted on instructablesI’m not really worried. You aren’t able to slap one together anyway.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258842",
"author": "bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T17:59:10",
"content": "@qwertyPower Lasers!? Oh, man. You just gave me an idea for an incredibly useless type of oscilloscope xD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259515",
"author": "SoTroo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T20:27:33",
"content": "i also cast in my vote for banning people like vonskippy from here. we need more creative ppl and fewer angry kiddies with nothing to do bu whine.sadly, a moderated system that requires membership to post seems to be the way here now.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259954",
"author": "Will",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:16:39",
"content": "@vonskippy Obvious Stupid American is Obvious Stupid AmericanAnyways this is a cool project and I wonder if I can get some of that paint…And Yes I am American so dont go off on me :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260119",
"author": "Mikey",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:39:13",
"content": "If it takes a whole minute to cool down, it seems like you could turn off a segment early if you knew it was going to change (not the ones that are unchanging because they would fade all over the place… but the minute hand for sure…)So if you know a segment is going to change, then like at 00 secs turn it on, and at 30 secs turn it off — so that 30-60 is “cooling down” and gradually fading… — or even only turn it on for 5 or 10 seconds (however long it takes to heat it) — though then it might cool off quicker too — so maybe you could mix in some sort of PWM… to have a quickly fading “off” state.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "266980",
"author": "IJ Dee-Vo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T19:09:29",
"content": "What time is it?Must be time for an epic hack!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267820",
"author": "yetihehe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T21:03:21",
"content": "Doh – just put some negative current through the resistors, they will cool down.Now seriously: you could run some resistive wire in loops behind a plate painted with this thermo paint and you would have a nicer display. Maybe you could display temperature outside with it? Or… make a speedometer for your car…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "346815",
"author": "Thermal Mug",
"timestamp": "2011-03-03T05:41:12",
"content": "I think it looks like a fairly creative and amusing project, not epic, but amusing is good.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1004590",
"author": "Pedro",
"timestamp": "2013-05-16T23:47:00",
"content": "I want to make a clock! Is there an anti-vonskippy fan club now?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "8181329",
"author": "pigster",
"timestamp": "2025-09-18T12:40:01",
"content": "Just an inspiration for somebody – transistors in TO-220 are good heating elements for small amount of heat as they have ready made easy to use heat transfer interface. Saw that multiple times in configuration, where 2 transistors was bolted on single heatsink, one acting as heater, for measuring temperature response of the second one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.789904
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/05/breathing-motion-powered-usb-charger/
|
Breathing Motion Powered USB Charger
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Wearable Hacks"
] |
[
"boost",
"breath",
"charger",
"gear",
"rectify"
] |
When your batteries run low you can use your body to recharge them. This contraption
generates power from chest expansion while breathing
. [Jmengel] used some gears from old optical drives to boost the RPM generated by a belt around your torso that he calls a thorax expansion coupler. When you breath in, that belt pulls on a plate that spins the gears, ultimately rotating a small motor. The AC current generated by that motor is run through a rectifier and a boost converter, then fed to a charging circuit.
Does it work? Not really, as this only outputs around 50 mW. But we like the twinge of Dune nostalgia we get looking at it. Wouldn’t this be a perfect addition to a
stillsuit
?
| 32
| 32
|
[
{
"comment_id": "251874",
"author": "Henrik Pedersen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T17:35:13",
"content": "I remember reading somewhere that your lifespan is shortened by wearing a corset because of the extra pressure being put on your body.However I really don’t think that this device is directly harmful. I’m just saying it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251879",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T17:36:52",
"content": "hm … no video or information on how hard it is to breathe with it on?if its practical it would be interesting to turn it around and stick it in a backpack with a buckle strap that goes around the chest!maybe also some sort of bouncing weight based power generator also as i did notice my backpacks bounced allot back in high school XD",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251891",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T17:39:13",
"content": "@Henrik Pedersencorcets are harmful becaus eof what they do to your ribs and organshttp://www.hsl.virginia.edu/historical/reflections/winter2008/images/corset_damage.jpg",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251989",
"author": "matbed",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T18:02:29",
"content": "@ BiOzZ: I made one of these a few years ago when i first spotted this on instructables and it can be quite hard to expand your lungs enough.I found to get a fast enough return on te mecanism between breaths, the rubber band was almost too tight to breath normally.Also there is a charging device that you put in your backpack that works a bit like a shake up torch.I found a slightly better idea for this is to tie it between your feet for when you walk around but your feet are tied together = trip hazard.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251997",
"author": "NatureTM",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T18:03:02",
"content": "Put this on all the coma patients in a hospital and make them power their own vital monitors!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252057",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T18:11:22",
"content": "He is wearing it desert fashion…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252091",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T18:18:21",
"content": "You could make a smaller one of these that goes around a man’s penis.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252304",
"author": "Nick",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T19:20:35",
"content": "Why not attach two of these to your upper legs/bum and tie the other ends to the back of your shoes? I imagine that your legs generate much more force than breathing does.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252316",
"author": "Hacksaw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T19:24:43",
"content": "The incessant desire to turn humans into machines annoys me to no end. All of this to make your ipod run five minutes longer?interesting concept and at least the government didn’t spend billions developing it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252367",
"author": "Addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T19:44:32",
"content": "This is an awesome idea. Although there is some weight in the “hard to breath” statements , compare this to solar panels that use very close to the amount of energy they produce in their life times, to produce. I wish the government WAS spending our billions developing energy sources that dont destroy the infinitesimal rock we call home.I estimate less then 2 years before a shoe company realizes we would buy shoes with similar devices that you can plug a device into for emergency power. Think those flash lights you shake, magnet and a coil some sort of storage entity and a usb jack. Some creative use of the new buck boost devices on the market and cutting edge caps , enerchips and other energy storage mediums mean this , and more (wireless versions ) are possible.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252797",
"author": "stew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T21:14:05",
"content": "I LOVE IT. Your giving me all these ideas for human powered charging, next thing you know i’m going to be walking around with ten different cables and motors attached to various appendages….and i’d still only get 500mA, but it’d be cool",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252885",
"author": "aztraph",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T21:37:28",
"content": "coming from the point of view of someone who likes to practice proper breathing techniques, actually that’s all there is too it, breathing properly involves using your diaphragm, not your chest, your stomach expands as a result, A+ for style, D for concept, so technically it’s still a passing grade, but you’re still doing it wrong.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253364",
"author": "bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T23:37:02",
"content": "Wow your ideal is breathtaking…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253818",
"author": "themark",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T01:03:32",
"content": "Sir, could you step over here for “additional screening”?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "254795",
"author": "n0th1n6",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T04:16:47",
"content": "Geek + Boob = heavy breathing = faster rpm = fast charging",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "257092",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T11:03:13",
"content": "Maybe he would get better output if he picks more suitable gears and AC generator instead of just taking stuff out of the junk box.Imagine this being sub minaturised (maybe using nano technology?). Every thread around the girth of your jumper has one of these attached and then they are all multiplexed into a single charger.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258249",
"author": "BP",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T15:54:59",
"content": "Do these jumpers up in a nice prison orange and we could turn prisons in to power plants. Give them exercise bikes and treadmills hooked up to generators and change the sentences to killowatts rather than years.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258368",
"author": "chango",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T16:22:45",
"content": "@biozz: A springless solenoid like one of those shake flashlights would probably work. The first thought I had though was a scaled-up automatic watch mechanism: off center weight on the axis of a generator. You’d have to be careful not to pull too much current or you’d knock the person off balance!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258486",
"author": "CrossDraw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T16:48:37",
"content": "Hmm – Not a bad idea just don’t try going through airport security with one on, Unless you fancy making friends with some burly folks named Bubba or Agnuss, etc… for the next few years :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258826",
"author": "flying dutchman",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T17:56:42",
"content": "This is amazing !But men can’t “create energy”, so it will cost you energy as well : we had to eat more^^",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258876",
"author": "hekilledmywire",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:07:56",
"content": "This is plain non-sense, our body is very efficient, if you try to “harvest” all that “wasted” energy you will need to provide the extra energy that your device colects from your movements and messing with lungs or hearth can be pretty hazardous.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259213",
"author": "bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:06:24",
"content": "“breathing properly involves using your diaphragm, not your chest, your stomach expands as a result”I hope you wrote that wrong. Otherwise, you’ve been reading something very, very peculiar.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259349",
"author": "supershwa",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:40:11",
"content": "Basically an archaic version of the (much more efficient) nanogenerators scientists are already working on, ex:http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2006/04/060414011916.htm",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259373",
"author": "supershwa",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:42:40",
"content": "Oh…and instructables.com sucks sans subscription…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259404",
"author": "mattbed",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:52:20",
"content": "actually your lungs expand in all directions and breathing isnt just as a result of diaphragm movement. Your rib cage moves up and out as well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259416",
"author": "mattbed",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:57:11",
"content": "so @ aztraph: c for your comment, f for your biological knowledge.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259875",
"author": "walt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:01:15",
"content": "instructables BOOOOOOOOOO!!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "260893",
"author": "strider_mt2k",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T01:49:32",
"content": "Always some creative type thinking every hack is heading straight towards the airport.Don’t go near an airport if you value your liberty, let alone your hack.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "262093",
"author": "cknopp",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T03:29:52",
"content": "DONT FORGET THE ARMPIT PELTIER CHARGERS!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267362",
"author": "Dan Fruzzetti",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:08:32",
"content": "you could still use it to power an LED!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "267369",
"author": "Dan Fruzzetti",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T20:09:03",
"content": "PS – cknopp: The Peltier effect is called the Seebeck effect when used backwards.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "398265",
"author": "canid",
"timestamp": "2011-05-26T17:54:22",
"content": "I actually envision a much higher resistance -> higher torque implementation of this device driving a higher output alternator. the final output? powering a personal trainer device to monitor breathing exercise regimens.insane; maybe. orthotic and athletic applications must exist.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.949139
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/04/classical-vcr-head-jog-wheel/
|
Classical VCR Head Jog Wheel
|
Caleb Kraft
|
[
"classic hacks",
"Peripherals Hacks"
] |
[
"jog wheel",
"vcr"
] |
[Osgeld] takes on the
classic VCR head jog wheel in this instructable
. He has done a fantastic job not only in his build quality, but in the quality of the writeup. As he points out, the idea of using the head as a jog wheel isn’t new. His construction and build quality however have yielded a fantastic looking reliable device that we would be proud to have sitting on our desk.
As usual, the most interesting bits of the writeup are how he solved problems he encountered. For example, he’s using an optical mouse to detect the motion of the wheel. This requires that he print out a pattern to mount opposite the optical sensor. This sounds straight forward enough, but he found the results to be less than stellar. He documented his fix, basically reworking it in GIMP, so others can save some time. That is how tutorials should be. Great job [Osgeld].
| 52
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "247188",
"author": "bobdole",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T20:57:28",
"content": "grr… instructables.I really wish someone would come up with a good alternative to that horrible site. One that respects your licensing and doesn’t put vital steps of your project behind a paywall. If I license my tutorials as cc noncommercial, they shouldn’t be allowed to claim full ownership of it, edit it, lock people out of seeing vital parts of it, and charge people money to read it. Not to mention if you so much as mention anything even remotely related to this policy you will be censored.Never clicking another instructables link ever. Shame really, that looks like a very nice project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "3022584",
"author": "spaceman",
"timestamp": "2016-05-17T12:08:29",
"content": "put the “instructable” on your site and post a small instructable on instructable site. and put in a “for more info” link",
"parent_id": "247188",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "247213",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:04:36",
"content": "you sign into a free account and you have full access to the entire articlethanks for using my project to soapbox your ignorance",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247304",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:20:43",
"content": "Oh also I am not using the optical sensor that came from the mouse, it just happened to be all packaged in 1 chip, yes I am using an optical sensor made out of IR parts, but its hooked up to the rotary encoder inputs on the IC",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247307",
"author": "adam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:21:35",
"content": "lol i have a free account at instructables to. the only thing you get with pro. its pretty useless and thats why they give them away with every contest.back to the projectvery nice great build quality, I never seem to finish off a build, especially that nicely. Question though. I’ve taken apart a few VCRs and every time It seems like a week or two after the heads seem to have corroded and oxidized. have you had this problem or is it just my sweat is very corrosive? :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247319",
"author": "Chris Muncy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:23:34",
"content": "1. Why should we have to sign in and AGREE to their more than nonprivate AUP, giving up age, gender, zipcode, so we can enjoy your project spread across a dozen plus pages.Sorry, but there is a growing number of HAD readers that won’t go to instructables to check out a potentially cool project.Not knocking your project. Knocking the presentation of it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247322",
"author": "paul",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:24:57",
"content": "sorry but i have to agree, instructables sucks.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247337",
"author": "Superfungus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:30:20",
"content": "@bobdoleI for one don’t think there’s anything ignorant about that opinion. I think the concept of instructables is great, but I’ve also been having misgivings about the site. They are getting ad revenue for content which is donated to them for free. I think it’s totally reasonable to expect that they at least serve that content up without a membership hoop.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247344",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:32:34",
"content": "Great hack!!I’ve always loved VCR heads, as a kid I took apart several VCRs. That’s a great use for them. I never did figure out a good use for them.Anyways I’m not a fan of instructables, I’ll concede it’s cheaper and often easier than hosting ones own personal site for their hacks. For some odd reason it does NOT remember me when I go to that site, and am forced to log on every time to view a hack. The main annoyance is after logging on, it takes me to a different page(some main page deal) and when I press back, it doesn’t think I’m logged in,…still can’t view the entire article. It’s just annoying, having to log in, then click the link…..I really would like to see a HaD forum, optimized for HaD users to post hacks.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "8183404",
"author": "ElectroPaint",
"timestamp": "2025-09-23T20:06:44",
"content": "The instructables thing: lighting-gallery.net does the same thing and it bugs me.",
"parent_id": "247344",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "247350",
"author": "Chris Muncy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:33:49",
"content": "+1 Fallen",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247353",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:34:26",
"content": "no this thing has been sitting around since last summer and while it did get a little dull, its nothing that a little brasso once in a while doesn’t take care ofChris, you dont have to give up age, I didnt put it in there until well over a year after signing up, same with zip code cause I won a contest, and my gender is set to robot, one of the darn near dozen choices, if you dont want to sign in thats your deal, and so far the “growing number” are mostly a bunch of people who wont spend 3 seconds to actually look at the account chart and want to scream PAYWALL!!! I think you are the only one I have ever seen to have a legitimate reason, though they are optional",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247449",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T22:06:23",
"content": "it’s a good hack and right up but unfortunately a little more than what most people will do.i know you wanted to make it look nice and i agree it doesi might do this since i have a mouse and a vcr head laying around but i’ll probably just put the encoder on the bottom and stick the mouse parts under that, you could do that and still make it look nice if you just encase all the junk inside and have the head sticking outby the way, not all vcr heads look nice on the top like yours, mine has wires sticking out and solder and stuff written on italso you didn’t really include any links to other stuff you could do with a jog wheel like midi, which is what i’d use it forbut still, nice job",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247457",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T22:07:33",
"content": "write up*faceplams",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247590",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T22:48:20",
"content": "Zool:Mine had a bunch of crap printed on the top, most of it washed off with a little acetone, but by the time I got done sanding down the polyester it was totally gone :)and yes I agree most people would not go though all that, and yea you can stuff the junk in a box, but it looks so much cooler free floating",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247601",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T22:52:13",
"content": "what kind of motor is in a VCR head? A stepper I’d imagine? could you spin it, read the changing output voltages, and extrapolate the wheel’s direction and speed from that?It seems like with the wheel, a few diodes and resistors, and a little AVR programmed to act as a USB device, you could make a little generic board that converts any VCR head into a jog wheel. New project maybe…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247615",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T22:55:36",
"content": "I thought this would use the motor pulses to generate scroll activity. That would be cool with a naked hard drive sans head and arm. I will search my notes on three phase logic to digital pulse converter, I found on the web. It seems to be just 3 LM324’s with a minus common to a fourth term on the drive, but no logic. No drives use a Y connect, they use a Delta of just three wires. This is worth a hack. I have one drive mounted on oak with a 1/4 inch plug, it is a solo “scratch” instrument for live music or DJ. It is engraved 1906 Telharmonium 2006. Bass not scratch is the sound and a serious sub shakes the the ground.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247743",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T23:26:05",
"content": "when I opened this thing up it had 2 sets of 4 coils (one stationary one on the spinning part), it was defiantly not stepper, and there is no need for stepper in a vcr head, it just whizzes aroundthough I am not totally discounting the idea of using the motor, but it doesnt work that way in this case",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247750",
"author": "dext3r",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T23:27:22",
"content": "this is a huge waste of time and effort for far too little result.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247852",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T23:43:35",
"content": "Dammit, so many problems with Instructables, so little time.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247948",
"author": "gottabethatguy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T23:58:11",
"content": "Nicely done and very well put together. That thing looks pretty sweet, I was just sitting here day dreaming about trying to use something like that with a propeller uC (because its what I’m learning to use) as an input device for a small LCD. Mount it on a push button some how and you would have a smooth wheel pushbutton interface for menu selection. It would really come in handy for going through large ranges of numbers or settings, like say for a temp controller on a kiln.I even got all the parts lying around!I don’t go to instructables either, to be honest, I just find the interface clumsy and awkward. I have an account and I was in love with the site when it first came out, but all they have done since then is make the site harder to use and annoying. If I want to post content I can see needing to sign up. But just to view it? Thats crazy, especially when you generate your revenue from user submitted content.I might go there for this if I can’t find an alternate tutorial with a quick search.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247953",
"author": "gottabethatguy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T23:58:57",
"content": "Oh yeah I also wanted to say, I’ve had that same yellow and black screwdriver for more years than I can remember not having it. Haha",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247974",
"author": "Bill D. Williams",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T00:01:08",
"content": "Instructables.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248023",
"author": "sp00nix",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T00:03:57",
"content": "Looks nice, but i don’t feel like fumbling around with that site to check it out. I’ll figure it out my self.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248123",
"author": "paul",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T00:31:38",
"content": "+1 million for Fallen’s idea!HaD is the place for your hack not instructables. Come on HaD set it up.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248236",
"author": "Willyshop",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T01:02:08",
"content": "Instructables sucks balls. Especially when there are alternatives like wikihow.com. I’m sure there are others as well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248429",
"author": "Gosh",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T01:59:54",
"content": "Awesome write up! Absolutely utter trash of a website. Why hasn’t HaD come up with it’s own version of Instructables yet?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248436",
"author": "Knuckleball",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T02:01:41",
"content": "@ gottabethatguy – I have that same screwdriver as well. :)Gentlemen, your views on Instructables.com and wikihow.com are all valid and everyone here is aware of the situation. This is a worthy hack, so say your thoughts on it or otherwise move on. This page isn’t either of the aforementioned websites. Which is why we are here. Let it go.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248541",
"author": "yaywoop",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T02:45:14",
"content": "with the idea of using the inbuilt motor.. this type of brushless motor has hall effect sensors for motion feedback, it would be pretty easy to hook one of those up to a mouse chip. could remove the motor stator for less rotary resistancealso the problem with the optical encoder printout was obviously too low resolution, you can open up paint and print at 300dpi, there is your pixel to inch conversion!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248650",
"author": "Jac Goudsmit",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T03:18:43",
"content": "For those who are wondering about the coils in a VCR head drum: you’re probably referring to the coils (really a transformer with one moving part, one stationary part) that carry the signal from the heads to the electronics and back. The drum normally spins around 25 or 30 times per second, so no, it’s not a stepper motor.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248986",
"author": "andrew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T04:29:10",
"content": "It seems obvious in retrospect, but I probably would have struggled for a long time trying to fit 3 or 4 small rectangular PCBs into that space rather than cutting one to the exact shape.BTW, I finally broke down and setup a (free) instructables account. I didn’t even need to wait for an email confirmation — the account worked immediately.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "249434",
"author": "adam",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T05:42:54",
"content": "I really can’t understand why everyone hates instructables so much. Every site has ads and even HAD has ads and nobodys complains that they are getting money for them. That is how websites work!Its better then having nothing and having people build all of these projects and never being able to share them because they don’t want to build their own site or run a blog. Instructables and wikihow have their place, Just like the Arduino and Basic Stamps. They are not perfect but they are better then nothing and have their uses.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "249647",
"author": "Gottabethatguy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T06:57:11",
"content": "Adam, did you ever see instructables in its infancy, it was a really nice, easy to use site. Now, well I assume you have seen what it is now.Once again, nice hack Osgeld!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "250418",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T10:15:13",
"content": "– article relatedSaw this on instructables before i saw it on HaD. Nice job on the build! I changed my computer mouse a few years ago from an MX Revolution to a razer lachesis and i’ve never regretted it… except for the fact that the revolution mouse has the most amazing scroll wheel. This project could be used to make a keyboard appended scroll wheel.– Instructables relatedA site has to have some kind of revenue to support the cost of having visitors; donation or adds basically. Staff and materials also count.The limitation posted on instructables is so you’re enticed to get a free account and get registered it’s called “Customer Retention” for you normal folks :) After that it’s a minimal what you can’t access and if you have an old free account (like mine) you have access to just about everything a pro member has.To those that whine about registration: The world isn’t open source, nonregistration, CC and free isn’t always better. Instructables is a platform that capitalizes on ideas for revenue and in return they offer a platform that gets your idea to the masses.With a free account and ad block it’s actually a rather great platform with a nice community… did i say nice community? Do you get banned for using the word “nice” here on HaD? :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "250993",
"author": "Panikos",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T12:55:04",
"content": "Might be a really nice tool to hook up to a digital dj program?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251169",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T13:59:55",
"content": "@Panikos that was also my first though, use it for music or maybe control a servo.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251226",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T14:21:50",
"content": "Maybe somebody should download the pdf when instructables hosts the project and put that pdf up somewhere for the hackadayers.Although then you have to be careful in what pdf reader you use, don’t use adobe reader since it’s the most prolific virusvector available.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251439",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T15:41:44",
"content": "@panikos: I’d like to look into that, but I worry that the wheel won’t have the needed stability or resolution. There’s also an issue of durability when you have a paper pattern glued to metal and being rubbed over other metal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252109",
"author": "Setatx",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T18:21:55",
"content": "I love this site. I’m an undergrad going for a CSCI+Eng, and while alot of this stuff does go WAY over my head at this point, some of it doesn’t =) And you don’t have to be a engineer to appreciate the concepts behind alternative energy sources!I would really love this site had some forums, or it’s own instructable section, hell, I would even DONATE to HaD to have these posted here, and never leave this site.Keep up the great work community, I hope to contribute someday!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252206",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T18:42:10",
"content": "the pattern never touches other metal M4CGYV3R, it actually does not touch anything at allresolution you could bump up to probally about 4x or 64 spaces, its at 16 right now, and yea its pretty darn stable, as long as you break all inertia :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252393",
"author": "George Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T19:55:32",
"content": "Here’s two good alternatives to doing your own encoder wheels. One is net based and the other isn’t. Both work well as I remember.http://www.bushytails.net/~randyg/encoder/encoderwheel.htmlhttp://www.mindspring.com/~tom2000/Delphi/Codewheel.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252458",
"author": "Hitek146",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T20:21:11",
"content": "^Why is it necessary to have a pattern, at all? All of the optical mice I have used tracked perfectly on blank paper, with no printed pattern…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252480",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T20:28:23",
"content": "cause its not using the optical sensor in the mouse, the mouse IC was just 1 single IC so if I did use the sensor it would just be xy data, so I used IR leds and photo transistors hooked up to the rotary encoder inputs, thus the pattern is needed to break the IR reflection",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252497",
"author": "osgeld",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T20:32:06",
"content": "George, I used the first link in this project",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "257919",
"author": "Faelenor",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T14:30:59",
"content": "HaD community is just a bunch of whiner. Always complaining about everything: arduino sucks, not a hack, led project, instructables are horrible, old, etc.All those useless comments should be filtered.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258149",
"author": "Doug",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T15:36:20",
"content": "I have a couple of old VCRs in the garage. Would anyone be interested in the heads if I placed them in the classifieds here?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259895",
"author": "walt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:05:42",
"content": "instructables BOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "263220",
"author": "Sounden",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T08:09:25",
"content": "Cool Hack! Been putting one of these together myself. Video heads are great. 2 Bearings, hall effect sensor, 2 brass collets w/setscrews and sometimes a floating magnetic collet in older heads. $30-40 bucks worth of parts! Get them from the garbage tip of nothing or maybe a couple bucks. The stationery part of the head is a bearing block :) All great for small cnc projects etc.STOP BITCHING & KEEP ON HACKING!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265492",
"author": "nonermouse",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T16:27:29",
"content": "…so not clicking that link!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "274980",
"author": "aye",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T17:35:46",
"content": "still not quite sure what this hack does. why not give a brief description in the post summary?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "3206045",
"author": "Archicgi",
"timestamp": "2016-09-19T12:41:03",
"content": "Wow! Amazing!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "5776511",
"author": "Pavelbirt",
"timestamp": "2019-01-12T14:08:53",
"content": "Wery cool idea. Amazing!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.882863
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/04/sluggy-wind-speed-sensor/
|
Sluggy Wind Speed Sensor
|
James Munns
|
[
"Linux Hacks"
] |
[
"linksys",
"mouse",
"nas",
"nslu2",
"ps2",
"sensor",
"slug",
"speed",
"wind"
] |
Sometimes when we look at a hack, its to see how someone chose those parts for the project. In this case, it would have been hard to see it coming. [Janne Jansson] decided to combine a set of measuring cups, a hacked Linksys NSLU2 NAS, and a PS/2 Mouse together to make a
self-contained Wind Speed Sensor
for his roof. The measuring cups act as wind catchers, which in turns drives the rotation of one of the mouse ball sensors. This data is then logged and transmitted by the NSLU2. The NSLU2 is running a
custom Linux based firmware
, similar to how OpenWRT works for wireless routers.
To calibrate the device, he also made the best logical choice: to duct tape it to the hood of his car along with a much more expensive wind sensor and use that data to make his own device as accurate as possible. When placed atop his house with a 1500VA 220V UPS, the device managed 250 days of uptime before meeting its demise. Those 250 days also included 5 days of being frozen solid, yet still transmitting (somewhat meaningless) data. All of the relevant code and build instructions are available, for those of you with similar parts to spare.
| 7
| 7
|
[
{
"comment_id": "247864",
"author": "Malvineous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T23:45:51",
"content": "I wonder why the UPS was required? I would’ve expected it’d be cheaper/more efficient to run the NSLU2 off a battery, apparently it only needs a 5V DC source.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "249872",
"author": "foobar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T08:04:03",
"content": "The NSLUG2 was nice for a minimal Debian armel distro. Setting up the OS swap/logs etc. to take it easy on the flash drive is a bit involved.The OS could be upgraded to run on the Docstar if it was a more recent installation.My only complaint about the NSLUG2 was the limited performance when connecting web cams.However, I did like the fact mine cost under $20 including a new 8GB usb flash drive.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251387",
"author": "Kodman",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T15:25:59",
"content": "Surely the cups have to be a particular size, shape, weight? I think my issue with this is the device needs calibrating at a selection of windspeeds. Requiring a wind speed meter. If you have one, why make one?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251818",
"author": "polobunny",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T17:19:28",
"content": "@Kodman When you need two! :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252344",
"author": "luke",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T19:35:29",
"content": "i am making a wind turbine and a wind speed and direction monitor would be useful, i was thinking of building it into the turbine but have no idea how to transmit the data, i was thinking mabe sensors connected to an arduino with an ethernet sheild so the data could be veiwed via wifi on my laptop or via the internet, but having a router up there would be useful. i have a couple of spare ones but have no idea how to program them. or i could use some sort of micro controller with a composite out because i’m going to have a cctv camera up there to monitor it and that way i could have the camera and the windspeed data coming into seperate video channels on my web enabled dvr. any help would be great. my e-mail is:ljthevj@googlemail.comif you can, please help me find a way, i am only 14 so am trying to learn as mutch as i can at the moment.thanks in advance :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258344",
"author": "lwatcdr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T16:18:03",
"content": "@KodmanThere is no prefect wind meter really. The mass of the cups and the friction will determine how sensitive the instrument is.The good thing is that for most uses you care more about the average than instant values.Also do you really care about winds of less than say 1 mph? How small of a breeze do you care about?On idea for cheap light cups I have seen are half of the plastic eggs you see for sale around Easter. Then you are going to want to find a good low friction low mass bearing.Here is one homebuilt onehttp://mcs.uwsuper.edu/sb/Electronics/Wind/@luke Boy do I have a solution for you for the data at least.http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoXbeeShieldAn off the self way to add ZigBee networking to an Arduino.If you are going to run something like networking wire you really do need to think of things like lightning protection. If this has enough range it should work very well for you.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259203",
"author": "asheets",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T19:02:12",
"content": "I like this, having done something similar to this back in the 1990s with an old 8086 and serial trackball.However, from a meteorological instrumentation standpoint, the favored design is a 3 cup anemometer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,324.993849
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/04/composite-video-with-msp430-chip/
|
Composite Video With MSP430 Chip
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Microcontrollers"
] |
[
"composite",
"launchpad",
"RCA",
"ti",
"video"
] |
[NatureTM] used part of the Thanksgiving holiday to
get composite video output working with an MSP430
microcontroller. He’s using one of the chips that came with the TI Launchpad, which is a big hardware limitation because of the relatively small code memory and RAM. The chip displays one still image at a resolution of 192×40 pixels. Still, this is a great way to learn about composite video signals, as a lot of other projects
use a TVout library to save you the headaches
. All you’ll need is a TI Launchpad, a 16 MHz crystal oscillator, two resistors, and an RCA jack. Dig through the code and see what a great job [NatureTM] did of offloading as much work onto the chip’s peripherals as possible.
| 24
| 24
|
[
{
"comment_id": "246258",
"author": "st2000",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T16:27:39",
"content": "Wow, you got all that into a TI launch pad? No cheating? I’ve two of those just sitting here loosing value as we speak. No wonder they haven’t shipping my TI robot – they’re waiting to see if it’s worth the trouble. They didn’t ship it to you did they?-nice",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246349",
"author": "dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T16:59:47",
"content": "Awesome. That’s TRS-80 model 1 resolution",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246375",
"author": "bluehash",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T17:04:44",
"content": "Congrats NTM!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246668",
"author": "gatesphere",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T18:58:18",
"content": "Nice job, NTM.I don’t see you on #43oh right now though… I’m guessing class. :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246924",
"author": "lamer",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T20:18:04",
"content": "i would like to see the launchpadused to make Text overlay,",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247147",
"author": "NatureTM",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T20:44:56",
"content": "Thanks HaD!@st2000No, they didn’t ship my evalbot either. I did consider putting the TI logo next to the phrase, “Where’s my evalbot?” for the demo image. It’ll come soon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247365",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:38:52",
"content": "cool, 192×40, does that mean you could have multiple screens or a video/sprites at even smaller resolution?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247571",
"author": "jbremnant",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T22:42:53",
"content": "great job! nice to see this getting posted here.it’d be nice to see pong running using your lib.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247592",
"author": "localroger",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T22:48:31",
"content": "Wow, it’s like a single chip COSMAC Super Elf.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248265",
"author": "sp00nix",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T01:09:51",
"content": "This made me finally open and assembly my launchpad, and i have no idea where to get started and get this onto the damn thing. I have all the software installed and the source loaded but after that i’m lost.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248398",
"author": "bluehash",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T01:51:26",
"content": "@sp00nix try here for a list of projects for the Launchpad:http://www.43oh.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=9&sid=674ff4ea9685e5e9aa1a29aebb1f7fc5",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248623",
"author": "vtl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T03:16:00",
"content": "Wow, people actually got their launchpad? I ordered mine 19th september and still never got it. Estimated ship date was over a month ago and the order status just sits there at ‘processing’.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "250630",
"author": "Richard",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T11:34:34",
"content": "If its not colour, its not a composite video signal, since composite is the result from adding chroma and luma together. Its just a monochrome video signal.While this is a nice hack and all that, I really do question the use of outputting an obsoleted video format on a microcontroller when it takes so much of its resources that you have virtually nothing left in it.There is a void between these hacks and something like a beagleboard with a proper video out generator that is awaiting a product, but IMO analog SD video like these and the chumby make have no place these days other than curious.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251111",
"author": "Andrew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T13:41:52",
"content": "Nice project!@RichardIf its not in glorious color whats the point, eh? Never mind the fact this project shows a ton of very useful theory behind how video signals are created.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251243",
"author": "bluehash",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T14:28:33",
"content": "@Richard, You don’t get to go this low on the Beagleboad, plus this was a great learning project on how video signals work. Best of all, he got it too work using the chip’s hardware.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251968",
"author": "NatureTM",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T17:58:20",
"content": "Hey Richard, I thought of the fact that it’s not real composite, since it’s missing hue and saturation. I considered calling it “composite” with quotes every time, or “composite minus color.” I decided that the signal did contain brightness, sync, and blanking, so it was sort of a composite signal. It also does adhere to the NTSC composite standard. Think of it as a composite signal that’s only in B/W.I used this “obsolete” video format because every TV, including very modern ones, have a composite input. It may be obsolete, but it’s still universal.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252163",
"author": "st2000",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T18:26:15",
"content": "@vtl:I think I was lucky. I ordered 2 direct from TI and got them. Someone at work ordered 2 as well. But he did so from DigiKey. He got those but had to pay shipping. If you really need one now you might try DigiKey. I am sure we and TI are working in a “far from consumer production supply chain” scenario and can expect a wide range of lead times.@RichardHum, but the black and white signal does contain 1) vertical sync, 2) horizontal sync & 3) brightness. For many years that was all there was. Color came later and had to be added in such a way as to not disturb legacy equipment. I wasn’t around but assume, never the less, it did. As the color is a phase modulated signal added to everything else at about 3.8MHz, the black and white sets were probably sensitive to that signal as the brightness was able to be modulated all the way up to about 4MHz. So watching a color signal on an old black and white set probably added an annoying cheese grader pattern to everything. In the end, I’d still consider the output of this project to be composite video.@NatureTMIf you wanted to add color, you might think about using s-video. I’m not sure exactly how it works, but Sony split the video (I’m going to call it) B&W composite from the color so as to preserve the higher bandwidth of the B&W composite signal. This plays right into how a VCR works and why Sony had such a better picture when used with VCRs. This way you don’t have to mix in yet another signal. Regardless I believe you sill have to add a color xtal (common as dirt I suspect) and some way to control the delay to simulate phase modulation (maybe just switching in and out extra gates?). Yes, you might be able to do it in software on a fast embedded processor. You would need to be able to move a 3.8MHz wave fractions of a wave cycle back and forth. So the processor would have to be moving several multiples of that. Say 64MHz, 128MHz or 256MHz depending on how many instructions you can get from one machine cycle.-good luck",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252176",
"author": "st2000",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T18:28:52",
"content": "Of course I meant cheese grater, not grader.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253225",
"author": "localroger",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T23:04:47",
"content": "@NatureTM, why not just say it puts out NTSC video? I think that’s what Parallax says about the Propeller (and they even do put out true composite with color, since the chip has special hardware to generate the color subcarrier).@st2000 I have actually watched color TV broadcasts on a legacy TV that wasn’t designed for them (and built with vacuum tubes sometime around 1964), and there were no visible artifacts from the color signal. I don’t think those TV’s actually passed signals up to 4 MHz. In any case it was all very carefully designed to make sure those old sets worked OK, which is one reason the signal format is such an odd hack.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258082",
"author": "Mark",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T15:20:28",
"content": "“Wow, people actually got their launchpad?” -VTL“I am sure we and TI are working in a “far from consumer production supply chain” scenario and can expect a wide range of lead times.” -st2000I am in the same boat as VTL. From what I understand TI has made a name for themselves catering to smaller manufacturers. By screwing up the logistics of something like this says they don’t really cater to smaller markets. If your not going to do it right then they should have not bothered. For those that say that TI is not really to blame…. If McDonalds decided that they didn’t have the $$ to pay out the million dollar winner of their Monopoly game there would be Hell to pay. They got the benefit from the excitement generated from the game, then they should be able to pay out.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258256",
"author": "st2000",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T15:56:31",
"content": "@MarlIf you take a look around everyone is trying to gain a following. I think Microchip is currently taking 20% off of their kits (hint hint, I’d like a touch switch development board for Christmas). I think ST Micro is currently running a contest and might be selling their development board at a low price. And TI is just doing the same. Actually it is all a big win for us hackers who buy in small quantity.On top of that, everyone has reduced their inventory. Face it, no one can afford millions of dollars of capital sitting around doing nothing these days. Even if you wanted 10,000 brand new processors, I think Microchip lead times are such that their more popular processors are not immediately available for the asking.BTW, I don’t play the McDonalds games ever since they screwed it up:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/McDonald%27s_Monopoly#Fraud…so, in the end, I guess you *are* right.(I can’t resist): “All your LAUNCHPAD are belong to us!”…in case I parted your hair:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/All_your_base_are_belong_to_us…lord, at this rate, I think I owe Wikipedia money:http://wikimediafoundation.org/wiki/WMFSA001/en/US?utm_medium=sitenotice&utm_campaign=20101203EA012&utm_source=20101203_EA004A_US&country_code=US-I’m sure your launchpad is getting closer and closer.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "265305",
"author": "Mark",
"timestamp": "2010-12-07T15:28:03",
"content": "TI is listening in…..Last night I received notification that my order was shipped. Cool beans, a 4 or 5 month wait but I will take it. I guess I will have to stop saying bad things about TI.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "287198",
"author": "vtl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-21T05:40:41",
"content": "Just to follow up, I replied to the order confirmation saying that it was taking forever and the email bounced back. But the very next day I got a confirmation that it was shipped and I got the package today (3 month total wait).If you want an MSP430 quickly you can just order the free samples, mine arrived in less than a week. Only downside is not having a board.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "630286",
"author": "simonbaker",
"timestamp": "2012-04-16T00:30:08",
"content": "I love it — superb example of desert island programming — what can be done when you think it should be impossible. Nice, and instructive.For practical projects, I’m interested in the MSP430/DSP combos too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,325.107202
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/28/wiffletree-a-mechanical-digital-to-analog-converter/
|
Wiffletree: A Mechanical Digital To Analog Converter
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"HackIt"
] |
[
"binary",
"digital to analog con",
"selectrix",
"typewriter",
"whiffletree"
] |
This isn’t a hack. But it is a decidedly interesting piece of mechanical technology. The Whiffletree shown above is a way to turn binary data into a mechanical analog value. [Bill Hammack] explains how
this assembly is used in a typewriter
and how
a whiffletree can convert binary data to a set of analog outputs
.
These linkages are what makes an
IBM Selectrix Typewriter
work. You know, the one with the globe stylus instead of individual hammers for each key? [Bill] uses the typewriter as the example in his illustrations that show how each bit of data positions the output in a predictably different location. We’re familiar with other
mechanical representations of binary data
but converting to an analog value mechanically is a new concept for us. Lukily, the videos that [Bill] put together are fantastic at explaining the concepts. Not surprising, since
he is a professor
at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign . See them both after the break.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRCNenhcvpw&w=470]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_SC7oWL78A&w=470]
[via
Tinkernology
and
Make
]
| 15
| 15
|
[
{
"comment_id": "220450",
"author": "grenadier",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T21:39:04",
"content": "Cool, now build an analytical engine.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220498",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T23:29:20",
"content": "*boom**boom**boom**boom**boom*MTVNewsa whiffle tree makes me think of a pale yellow plastic tree with holes in it",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220535",
"author": "Dave",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T01:33:46",
"content": "Selectric, not Selectrix.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220542",
"author": "Harvie",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T01:54:39",
"content": "I’d like to see mechanical ADC with binary or hexadecimal output (i can imagine ADC with unary output :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220558",
"author": "macona",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T03:02:02",
"content": "I really dont see this as digital to analog. More like a parallel to serial converter or a mechanical logic gate. Or for that matter since the input can be analog it could be something like an op-amp.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220567",
"author": "echodelta",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T03:37:16",
"content": "I rebuild player pianos. The 1913 patent Duo Art reproducer has two 4-bit DAC’s, to control the left and right hand part loudness. They are weighted in a precise and tweak-able 1-2-4-8 scale! I have pics of the rebuilt and one in oldie state. They look like a baby Borg box.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220578",
"author": "alan turing's dog",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T04:14:43",
"content": "Mechanical A/D has been around for a long time. Ever see a thermostat?What’s that? You want more bits?Ever seen a thermostat with an anticipating circuit?What? You want even more bits?I’m too tired to look for prior art, but I guarantee that someone has converted pressure, speed or weight into a linear scale using a bellows or beam arrangement, and then connected it to a multiple-cam roller using gear and tooth mechanisms. The cams were used to open/close multiple gates or valves. This will date back to the early 1900’s, at least.You could set the cams for binary easily enough.I don’t think a lot of binary math got done until the 40s/50s, as base 10 and 12 were all the rage.By 1945, there were mechanical equivalents of all electronic functions, but once we mastered the use of pulse rather than linear electronics there was no point in using them for anything but the crudest and most trivial of problems.I urge you (the curious ones, anyway) to read Charles Babbage’s late 19th century treatise on mechanical computing. He was quite ahead of his peers, but the machinists had 50 years to go before they could catch up.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220670",
"author": "offsetter",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T09:10:28",
"content": "Awesome stuff. now I really want to build myself a printer out of an old typewriter.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220682",
"author": "listn",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T09:28:54",
"content": "It says the typewriter is “based on” the wiffletree design. Never said it was the first to use it or invented it…And as digital/analog, Binary would be digital, mechanical movements would be analog. Binary code being interpreted as mechanical movements is digital-analog conversion.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220770",
"author": "smoker_dave",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T12:03:50",
"content": "“This isn’t a hack.”+“filed under: HackIt”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220790",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T13:02:05",
"content": "It was a hack of the original designers, and it might help you one day when you are trying to hack something together.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221010",
"author": "Echelon",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T21:41:02",
"content": "A thousand meat pies to the first gentlefolk to build a mechanical Arduino clone.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "222987",
"author": "Ren",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T17:05:47",
"content": "I wish he’d made a demo of the other part, theball rotator mechanism.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "6665823",
"author": "Andre Bryx",
"timestamp": "2023-07-25T15:14:23",
"content": "I have a pre-modified Selectric from one the first 1971 Redactron Text-Computer.It already has Solenoids and Data-Lines – one of my next Projects.I got the System 20 yrs ago and had it rest in the Barn since them.Surprise – Powered it up a few weeks ago and runs as Typewiriter without any cleaning or lubricating!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "6666048",
"author": "David Goadby",
"timestamp": "2023-07-26T11:25:48",
"content": "I was trained on this machine and it is a wonder to behold. The other part that is a clever design is the universal joint under the golf ball which I used to cal the “dog bone” due to it’s shape. Two metal bands completed the action to rotate and then tilt and finally detent the ball. I wish I had kept one. As well as the console for IBM 360s’ (370’s had a matrix printer) the NCR 446 used one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,325.047545
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/28/audio-controlled-party-lights/
|
Audio Controlled Party Lights
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"LED Hacks"
] |
[
"tlc5940"
] |
[Thibault Brevet] wanted his own party lighting that pulsed and faded along with the tunes.
He ended up building a system
based on an Arduino and a PC running Processing. The output from a mixing board is fed into a PC and measured by the Processing script. From there, the calculated light levels are sent to the Arduino to address the LEDs via the control board seen above. [Thibault] built four LED modules that each have two 4-channel LEDs (red, green, blue, white) separated by a few feet. This means 32 PWM signals are necessary to drive the system. To get there, he utilized a pair of TLC5940 16-channel PWM chips, which function like cascading shift registers but have some fantastic current limiting and dot correction features. Take a look at the demo after the break to see what he’s accomplished.
The TLC5940 is a
popular choice for driving RGB LEDs
, and would be a nice part to use if you decide to make yourself
a Ping Pong LED Wall
.
[vimeo=http://vimeo.com/17200281]
| 15
| 15
|
[
{
"comment_id": "220428",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T20:09:07",
"content": "Very cool, and good work. But i’d like to see the need for the computer removed in a future version.You’ve offloaded the PWM to dedicated chips, and the audio processing to a computer, what’s left for the Arduino to do? Just translating?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220435",
"author": "CalcProgrammer1",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T20:35:32",
"content": "I did something similar with my RGB Fan Controller, used a Processing script to flash the LED’s to music. Using a 20MHz ATMega168 and interrupts I was also able to get 24 channels of 256-level software PWM out of 3 basic shift registers chained together to drive 8 RGB LED’s. I may have to look at this Processing script because the LED fading looks much nicer than what I was getting.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220448",
"author": "RadBrad",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T21:31:52",
"content": "Nice hack… love the perf board!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220482",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T23:00:27",
"content": "Schematic? Possible brief explanation of the 4 ULN2004’s?@ CalcProgrammer1, I would also be interested in seeing a schematic for your project as well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220512",
"author": "afex",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T00:27:11",
"content": "c’mon, i can’t be the only one that cringed upon seeing those IC’s on non ESD-safe packing peanuts :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220514",
"author": "thibault",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T00:35:39",
"content": "hello!well i had some issues with the signal level coming out from the mixer so i had to use my external soundcard and first adjust the input level in Ableton Live, which was then sent to Soundflower (Minim on Macs doesnt let you use the line input of the computer, only the mic so i had to trick it with Soundflower)My point for the future would be a standalone system with only an audio jack input and the animations entirely done micro-controller side. But for now it’s super easy that way to write new animations in the processing script on the computer (strobos effect, lock only one pure color.. whatever, triggered through a key pressed on the keyboard)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220556",
"author": "fluidic",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T02:50:57",
"content": "@BillThe TLC5940s use I2C, the computer uses a RS-232 serial port. It looks like the Arduino is just listening for commands on one then repeating them on the other.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220559",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T03:03:38",
"content": "@fluidicYeah, I figured, I was being somewhat rhetorical in the first post; trying to get the point across that the Arduino is hardly being used.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220611",
"author": "phishinphree",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T05:17:32",
"content": "the tlc5940s use a serial interface but its not i2c. and they need a few other lines to control the pwm clocking and resetting. kudos for getting that figured out. why not a max7313 instead?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220630",
"author": "Brad",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T06:35:49",
"content": "currently building a project with the TLC5940 and it is definately not a simple translation, bits have to be clocked in backwards. here’s all the steps for one cycle:http://focus.ti.com/lit/sw/slvc106/slvc106.pdf",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220643",
"author": "Marc",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T07:25:46",
"content": "I’m impressed by the amount of light generated by 8 LEDs. Awsome",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220912",
"author": "glonq",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T18:29:46",
"content": "International Dance Party approveshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-JZV5vJzVw",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221187",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T01:35:20",
"content": "@Bill Porter Re: arduinoDuh, blog cred.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221238",
"author": "Bill Porter",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T02:50:55",
"content": "@EricLol, my bad.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221386",
"author": "Elliott Danks",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T08:47:28",
"content": "yeah mate im doing my major project for year 12 anychance i get get the schematic on this it would be an awesome project!cheers mate",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,325.160159
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/28/rfid-spoofer-with-code-and-instructions/
|
RFID Spoofer With Code And Instructions
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Security Hacks"
] |
[
"125khz",
"emulator",
"rfid",
"spoofer",
"tag"
] |
Here’s
a field-programmable RFID spoofer
developed by [Doug Jackson]. He was
inspired by the spoofers we looked
at near the end of September that didn’t have source code available. With the idea seeded in his mind he figured he could develop his own version, and then
decided to share the build details with the rest of us
.
The tags that he purchased for testing and developing the spoofer have a code printed on the back of them. A bit of sleuthing at the data from a tag reader and he managed to crack the code. From there he built this tag spoofer with a keypad on which you enter the number from the back of any 125 kHz tag and the device becomes that tag. If you have been waiting to test your RFID hacking skills there should be nothing holding you back now that [Doug] shared the details of his own adventure.
| 11
| 11
|
[
{
"comment_id": "220417",
"author": "Decius",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T19:29:09",
"content": "Nice, what uses RFID entry though? To break into businesses? 0,0",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220426",
"author": "anon",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T20:05:05",
"content": "@Decius: RTFA",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220439",
"author": "Lucas",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T20:51:18",
"content": "I prefer the old Open RFID Projecthttp://www.t4f.org/projects/open-rfid-tagThe author wrote a nice explanation of the circuit and it is a good start point if you want to understand how a spoofer works.It has also a very nice and compact PCB:http://www.t4f.org/es/projects/open-rfid-tag/53",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220440",
"author": "Doug Jackson",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T20:53:54",
"content": "@decius: The intent of the article is not to provide a universal tool that can break into all businesses – A Sledge Hammer is better at that than many people believe.To use this device, you need a couple of things; 1) for the reader to use the same encoding as the device was designed for (Fairly likely – given that this is used in low cost solutions) – and 2) knowledge of the number printed on the ack of the card – A bit trickier.I wanted to highlite that the cheap card swipe systems are not as secure as people believe. But, seriously, what would you expect for $15 with free postage????",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220454",
"author": "Alex Rossie",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T22:02:03",
"content": "lame, I stopped reading at field programmable and started looking at his post for FPGA code…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220612",
"author": "error404",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T05:32:43",
"content": "He’s got his own blog, but posts all the useful information on Instructables? WTF.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220669",
"author": "xorpunk",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T09:09:01",
"content": "Like with the magstripe sensationalism, there is a challenge/response call that can’t be reversed easily where it matters. In this case with car keys and up to date building auth. This wont even work on the ones with the already cracked TI protocol.If you can use this on a building entrance the it probably is some boring place.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220771",
"author": "wouter",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T12:04:34",
"content": "people like him make a secure system unpossible!I love people like him!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220832",
"author": "M4CGYV3R",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T14:20:19",
"content": "@Alex, me too.When I hear Field-Programmable, I don’t think of “Programmable-In-The-Field” – I think of an FPGA.Also, death to Instructables. I hate that. He has a frickin’ solid page of his own but puts it on that atrocious site?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221089",
"author": "JeffT",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T23:15:05",
"content": "I recognize the RFID reader – commonly available on eBay from HK.A spoofer is not required. Simply unscrew the faceplate and short the pin labeled ‘Open’ to the one labeled ‘Ground’ and you’re in.Would have been much more secure to have a signal passed to a more secure processor, but that would be slightly more expensive.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "776260",
"author": "maha",
"timestamp": "2012-09-08T09:33:18",
"content": "Can we please realise a zigBee spoofer for arduino uno ??",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,325.210833
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/28/hackaday-links-november-28-2010/
|
Hackaday Links: November 28, 2010
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Hackaday links"
] |
[
"binary",
"clock",
"laser",
"parts",
"POV"
] |
The Clock Clock
This digital display
is made from several analog clocks with thick hands. Together they make something of a 7-segment display, which can be used to display the time. It reminds us of the “Shared Time” installation
we covered previously
. [Thanks Drum365 via
Anonimiss Files
]
Quickly desolder lots of parts
[Rhys Goodwin] is grabbing parts from junk PCBs but he’s not using a rework station.
Instead it’s a hot-air gun and a brisk tap on the bench
to send the parts flying. Well, at least he’s not using a blow-torch like [Ben Heck] does.
Binary Hero
This bank of 8 toggle switches is the controller for
Binary Hero
, a geeky take on Guitar Hero. When you see a decimal number come down the screen set your toggle to the binary equivalent in time or the game will be over before you know it. [Thanks Fabien]
Quick fan POV
[GMG] took a small persistence of vision board and slapped onto an oscillating fan blade. Along with a couple of magnets on the safety cage this display is
a persistence of vision hack you can pull off
in an hour or two.
Speed up laser etching
[James] figured out a way to
cut down on the time it takes to etch multiple copies of one item
with a laser cutter. It doesn’t run the laser faster, but orients the pieces in a way that means less movement of the head while the laser is not on. Read through his article and see if this method can help you out when doing some CNC work.
| 6
| 6
|
[
{
"comment_id": "220382",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T16:42:10",
"content": "Depopulating a board using hot air is good so long as there isn’t too much on it. I’ve done it with old PSUs and CRT monitors where the components are relatively big and can be sorted easily afterwards.For computer boards, it’s not really worth it IMHO apart from maybe saving the connectors and low ESR caps. Everything else is not generic enough to be useful.If you need a specific IC for a project for example, it’s usually so much better to just hack off the section of PCB with it still soldered in situ as you then gain the properly designed power supply decoupling and any support components will be still attached. I like salvaging the high current servo op-amps and brushless motor controllers out of CD-ROM drives this way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220429",
"author": "fluidic",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T20:12:07",
"content": "If you read it, the guy at the end with the laser etch isn’t etching anything but the green bit. He didn’t “figure out a way” to do anything more than follow the instructions. I’m confused as to why that keeps getting reposted around.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220432",
"author": "macona",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T20:26:21",
"content": "I have not had much luck with using hot air for mass component salvage. I found and repaired and old solder fountain. I can remove even the heaviest components at an amazing speed. Of course it only works for through hole components.http://www.flickr.com/photos/67292116@N00/5215452162/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220443",
"author": "Daniel Reetz",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T21:23:49",
"content": "That etching information is outlined in the manual that comes with all Epilog lasers. Not saying it’s not useful, and glad to see it online, but if he’s working with an Epilog, reading the manual would have got him as far as that.Lasers have lots of hidden problems/tricks like that, it’s nice to see them becoming general knowledge.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220477",
"author": "macona",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T22:55:39",
"content": "Looks like its a chinese machine. The manual that comes with those is pathetic at best. Its a lot of figure things out as you go.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220815",
"author": "blue carbuncle",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T13:44:26",
"content": "Neat howto on board depopulation. I had to give up most of it last year after they changed my medication. I now have the hands of a 60yo alchoholic lol.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,325.253464
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/27/epic-wooden-marble-run-for-kids-room/
|
Epic Wooden Marble Run For Kids’ Room
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"home hacks",
"Toy Hacks"
] |
[
"marble run",
"marbles"
] |
Some parents buy kinetic sculptures for their kids at art or craft fairs. Not [Steve Moseley], he turned his kids’ hovel into a sculpture by
wrapping a marble run around the entire room
. It’s big enough, with so many features that finding a banner image was a bit tough. After the break we’ve embedded a video where you’ll see a wagon wheel lifter, plenty of gravity-fed curves, loops, inclines, rockers, a stair-step lifter, and… well you get the idea.
Considering the scope of the project it was remarkably inexpensive; about $70 in wood, $40 for the glass marbles, and around $60 for everything else. We’re glad he shared his building methods with such verbosity. You’ll need a well-stocked shop. Fine work like this requires tools common for woodworkers, but we’d bet the band saw and oscillating spindle sander were a godsend.
[Thanks Ferdinand via
Flabber (NSFW)
]
| 30
| 27
|
[
{
"comment_id": "219927",
"author": "Eirikur Hrafnsson",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T23:19:39",
"content": "Beautiful :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219938",
"author": "roy",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T23:42:46",
"content": "noice",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219970",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T23:57:58",
"content": "noisy but very nice :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219973",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T00:13:38",
"content": "I was expecting a lot more when the word “epic” showed up in the title. It’s very cool, but very far from epic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219974",
"author": "RadBrad",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T00:13:44",
"content": "Coolness!!Brad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219988",
"author": "spider21",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T00:42:27",
"content": "Yeah, I would leave out the word “Epic” but a very well designed contraption. The camera might make it sound nosier than what it really is. I love it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220005",
"author": "Mike Szczys",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T01:04:11",
"content": "@DeadlyFoez: I don’t know man. For something that’s hand-made and installed in a kids’ room this the best I’ve seen by far. Just think of the time it took to design this, much less build and install it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220012",
"author": "ed3203",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T01:40:50",
"content": "i think i’ll have kids one day just so i can justify doing shit like this",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220013",
"author": "walt",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T01:46:12",
"content": "wtf. who is having a sale on the word “epic”?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220025",
"author": "Brian",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T02:26:39",
"content": "I think ‘EPIC’ is probably a little much, but I would agree with ‘epic’. Think about who this is meant for.This, for a young boy would be just the coolest thing. Our son’s pediatrician has a model train mounted near the ceiling in the waiting room, and only goes around in a loop, but is still pretty neat to watch. This would be great for any little kids. I wouldn’t mind having one in my room, but I imagine my wife would.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220047",
"author": "DeadlyFoez",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T03:20:14",
"content": "I’ve kind of gotten annoyed with such a heavy use of the work “epic” in recent times, and it gets overly exaggerated.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220059",
"author": "Paul Wright",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T04:07:25",
"content": "Literally, epic refers to a certain type of poem with specific characteristics. Generally, however, Princeton has it right with: # very imposing or impressive; surpassing the ordinary (especially in size or scale); “an epic voyage”; “of heroic proportions”; “heroic sculpture”# epic poem: a long narrative poem telling of a hero’s deedsFail is another four letter word, highly applicable to anyone complaining that this isn’t epic enough. This is neato torpedo, 23 skidoo with a shupedebopdebop.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220060",
"author": "cpmike",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T04:11:47",
"content": "I had a very similar setup, in length, but certainly not beauty… a dozen wrapping paper tubes sliced in half, some extra cardboard, and a few rolls of scotch tape was definitely the most affordable way to build it as a kid. What is it about watching the balls all cycle through that is so mesmerizing? The moment you see a marble complete your course without failing it was a very exciting feeling… always wish I had a way to circulate them back to the top, but just accumulating more marbles to start with was usually sufficient.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "220063",
"author": "cpmike",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T04:16:36",
"content": "Oh, and I’m suprised he didn’t make any jumps… if all your marbles are the same size it isn’t difficult to aim a ramp toward a funnel :D",
"parent_id": "220060",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "220075",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T04:32:52",
"content": "That would be neat to look at the first few cycles – after that ….. yaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwnnnnnnnn.Next time, buy the kid a ant farm, or better yet, a bike.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220217",
"author": "Power Supply",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T11:47:32",
"content": "Awesome would be a word I would use to describe it. Would have loved this as a kid. Come on peeps if you don’t think it is epic then build one that you think is, instead of winging about it ;D Oops have I just set a challenge?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220227",
"author": "Power Supply",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T11:53:05",
"content": "*or complaining since the spelling of whinging is apparently not in my vocabulary.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220342",
"author": "Mike of England",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T14:45:16",
"content": "epic–adjective Also, ep·i·cal.1.noting or pertaining to a long poetic composition, usually centered upon a hero, in which a series of great achievements or events is narrated in elevated style: Homer’s Iliad is an epic poem.2.resembling or suggesting such poetry: an epic novel on the founding of the country.3.heroic; majestic; impressively great: the epic events of the war.4.of unusually great size or extent: a crime wave of epic proportions.–noun5.an epic poem.6.epic poetry.7.any composition resembling an epic.8.something worthy to form the subject of an epic: The defense of the Alamo is an American epic.9.( initial capital letter ) Also called Old Ionic. the Greek dialect represented in the Iliad and the Odyssey, apparently Aeolic modified by Ionic.noting or pertaining to a long workshop session , usually centered upon a hero(Dad) in which a series of great mouldings or cuts are made in elevated style:",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220356",
"author": "Hacksaw",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T15:25:46",
"content": "I am going to suggest a re write of the title from “epic” to “hella cool” oops now you know I was a teen in the 80’s…Sweet toy I would love to build one for my kids",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220360",
"author": "Elliot Nixon",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T15:43:02",
"content": "I’m glad to see so many people also getting annoyed at the habitual miss use of words such as epic. These words have a meaning, we shouldn’t let people with small vocabularies redefine them to the point that they loose their meanings.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220515",
"author": "stib",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T00:36:43",
"content": "Words – cry havoc and let loose your meanings!I just love it when a grammar nazi makes a typo’ (he says, typing very carefully).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220541",
"author": "Hacksaw",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T01:54:19",
"content": "I love it when people say (type) loose when they mean lose",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220565",
"author": "Power Supply",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T03:31:33",
"content": "Wow I love how we have managed to turn a marble run into an English lesson. lol",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220822",
"author": "EPIC",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T14:03:14",
"content": "Very nice!Over 804158 people tought this was #epicSome people read too much what maddox says.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1772670",
"author": "Geekmaster",
"timestamp": "2014-09-01T03:12:58",
"content": "I think you over-estimated the number of teachers who read this post, eh? ;-)",
"parent_id": "220822",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "224025",
"author": "Phil C.",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T23:03:56",
"content": "Nice project–it’s a shame the author put it on Instructables, where it costs for an annual subscription to get a PDF of the project description. >:-p",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "1772682",
"author": "Geekmaster",
"timestamp": "2014-09-01T03:19:59",
"content": "I just downloaded the PDF after logging into my free instructables account. Do they make newbies PAY for that privilege these days? News to me… :-o",
"parent_id": "224025",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "229489",
"author": "Jason",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T23:43:34",
"content": "@EPIC Haha! That’s exactly what I was thinking as soon as someone complained about ‘epic’. I think maddox is hilarious, but the world would be a much darker place if everyone followed his cynicism. Next thing you know someone is going to demand his own marble run because he can spell, draw and do math better than that guy’s kids.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2081970",
"author": "pete",
"timestamp": "2014-11-03T21:13:58",
"content": "does anyone sell these my son is special need and love them",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "2489360",
"author": "Gabriel (Ro-Bot-X)",
"timestamp": "2015-03-21T23:29:06",
"content": "Nice! It reminds me of the Lego Great Ball Contraption…https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUtS52lqL5w",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,325.315575
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/27/balancing-inverted-pendulums/
|
Balancing Inverted Pendulums
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"articulated",
"balancing",
"pendulum"
] |
The
robot above can balance an inverted pendulum
. But wait, it gets better. It can balance an inverted pendulum that is articulated in the middle like the one seen above. Wait, wait, wait… it gets even better. It can start with the pendulum hanging below the sliding carriage, flick back and forth to get the two segments swinging, and then come to equilibrium with the pendulum as seen above. Once there, it can recover from a bit of a shove,
like some of the big boys
. Very impressive, even when compared to
two-wheeled balancers
. See for yourself after the break.
We don’t have very much information on how this works. We do know that it was a seminar paper from a student at the University of Stuttgart but the rest is pretty much a mystery. Does it use visual processing? What kind of controller is driving this thing? We want to know the details but haven’t yet found a copy of the paper. If you know where we can get our mitts on it please leave a comment below.
[vimeo=http://vimeo.com/2952236]
[Thanks Ferdinand via
Flabber (NSFW)
]
| 38
| 38
|
[
{
"comment_id": "219863",
"author": "Michael Bradley",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T21:20:54",
"content": "Very interesting, curious if we can put a camera pole atop a base like this? but move in x and y.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219865",
"author": "Frollard",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T21:26:22",
"content": "according to the end credits its estimated mathematically, so it might only take very simple real-world sampling to get results.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219867",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T21:26:43",
"content": "Ahh, Kalman filters. Is there anything they can’t do?Now make it work with three links :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219873",
"author": "JoshRagem",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T21:33:52",
"content": "holy moley.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219875",
"author": "James",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T21:41:09",
"content": "Beautiful. Love it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219877",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T21:42:06",
"content": "Amazing! How many lines of code did it take?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219883",
"author": "NatureTM",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T21:50:04",
"content": "Tensor posted some more info about it here:http://www.reddit.com/r/math/comments/ebql6/double_inverted_pendulum_crosspost_from_rphysics/c16y47v",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219887",
"author": "ewan",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T22:13:19",
"content": "clever work, but like the rubics cube solver. humans still win.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mowNKg1vhl8at 2:42 balancing a stack of three balls.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219891",
"author": "chaoticmind",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T22:24:37",
"content": "They are discussing the mathematics and algorithms over on reddit:http://www.reddit.com/r/math/comments/ebql6/double_inverted_pendulum_crosspost_from_rphysics/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219894",
"author": "DarkFader",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T22:30:22",
"content": "Can three segments be done? (given they all 3 have a different mass)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219896",
"author": "Laurence",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T22:33:03",
"content": "It’s not that complicated – the fun comes in calibration (a field with a whole career dedicated to it)I imagine it uses (like all the other inverted compound pendulum balancers) rotation sensors with a microcontroller/pc using a PID control loop. This is an example of a typical control system with feedback. Search PID pendulum on youtube for more vids!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219912",
"author": "nobitut",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T22:49:02",
"content": "This stuffs has been done in many classes under academic . They’re all classic control . For the self-erecting part most of the algorithms are done through fuzzy logic.http://inst.eecs.berkeley.edu/~ee128/fa10/labs.htmlhttp://www.quanser.com/english/html/products/custom_pages/L14-HFLC.asp",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219930",
"author": "kimomenu",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T23:24:12",
"content": "Does anyone knwow what kind of linear actuator controls the movement of this awesome thing so fast?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219932",
"author": "Charper",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T23:30:08",
"content": "@kimomenuI haven’t dug up his thesis (if someone finds it, please share), but it looks like a linear motor. Look up LIM –Linear Induction Motor. It’s basically a standard three-phase induction or PM synchronous motor that’s been “unrolled” to produce a linear motion instead of a torque.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219937",
"author": "George",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T23:41:21",
"content": "“Even when compared to a two-wheel balancer”? This is far more impressive – a double pendulum is a highly nonlinear, chaotic system. While a two-wheel balancer is also nonlinear, you can make a single linear approximation around the point in which you’re interested (upright) and throw linear control theory at it to make it work. You can do the same thing here once you’re mostly upright, but getting there is a lot harder – control theory just isn’t built to deal with chaotic, nonlinear systems.From his other post, he’s probably using a minor loop state space controller and would therefore have both position and velocity sensing. I doubt he used video processing, since position and velocity sensors would be faster and more precise.Point is, this is *really* impressive, and the idea behind the ‘swing-up’ phase is brilliant. Wow.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219968",
"author": "Renan",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T23:51:02",
"content": "The control of inverted pendulums (pendula?) is a classic problem in control theory…But the double inverted pendulum is a new one for me.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219971",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T00:04:56",
"content": "video at 1:30 made my jaws drop on tha florrr",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219977",
"author": "Nick",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T00:28:19",
"content": "Dang. This is great.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220007",
"author": "James",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T01:14:07",
"content": "Classic control problem. We’ve a similar setup in the Engineering department at Oxford, UK – an undergraduate lab module is to come up with a controller for it (though admittedly, the one above is quite impressive).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220015",
"author": "R. Barrabas",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T01:47:46",
"content": "Oh… constant energy – I get it!When the pendulums are balanced, the upper one and lower one have a specific amount of potential energy based on their mass and height.When starting, the system adds that much in the form of kinetic energy to the system, then adjusts to keep that much energy. Vertical balance is one position within that state space.This means that, at a guess, it should be possible to completely balance the upper pendulum atop the lower one first (with the lower one pointing “down”), then bring both up to vertical.Thanks for the insight!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220042",
"author": "Mike",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T03:03:36",
"content": "This is simply amazing. Hats off to the guys that programmed this!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220085",
"author": "basroil",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T05:26:46",
"content": "I actually have (limited) experience with a very similar setup (double inverted furuta pendulum rather than double inverted linear pendulum). This is very likely a double (technically triple if you include the cart position feedback) rotary encoder fed into a computer using an ADC. A single servo (or dc motor and rotary encoder) drives a a chain to control cart position.Software can be one of many programs, though Simulink in matlab is a good one to use. The stabilization can be a linearized approximation derived though Hamiltonian or Lagrangian methods. A simple PID will take care of the cart speed once the models are all accounted for.The main way in which this thing stays up is in the difference between the two rotational inertias, but the way this gets up is beyond me, this energy method is quite interesting though a bit unconventional.And unlike one of the comments above, I believe the tuning (you tune a PID, not calibrate it) is fairly simple if you just use Zeigler-Nichols approach.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220118",
"author": "Garbz",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T09:08:00",
"content": "This is almost a textbook classic example of a university level control theory problem. We did an almost identical (but simpler) example for our control theory course. In our case we had a rotating actuation rather than a linear one, so this adds a bit of an extra twist to the problem (in multiple ways).If this is anything like what we did at university the feedback for balancing will be two rotary encoders showing the angle of each arm of the pendulum. The actuator will then be the linear stepper controlling the left and right motion.Most likely since this is a university level project it will be run by something like the Matlab using the Simulink toolbox and an xPC rapid prototyping system to drive the pendulum directly from a Matlab control model (ours was made of several PD controllers hooked end to end and a statemachine to control the initial swingup)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220185",
"author": "Gert",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T11:00:08",
"content": "Usefull application?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220239",
"author": "elektronisk",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T12:02:29",
"content": "I think the following method of acheiving balance is more elegant (first balances lowest leg, then the top):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwJ2jzVexaI",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220316",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T13:41:54",
"content": "@Gert nunchaku fighting robots!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220386",
"author": "Brian",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T17:22:08",
"content": "Thats the bestest thing anyones ever made ever :Dbut just to be annoying, at 2:00 it should be opposite not opposit :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220398",
"author": "Bluechip",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T18:23:09",
"content": "As others have said, this is based on a classic problem in control theory; I’ve done something almost identical before as part of an undergraduate thesis.I don’t know how he implements things, but I used a pretty standard reinforcement learning algorithm and let the controller learn how to balance the double pendulum itself. Modified TD-lambda algorithms are capable of learning how to balance a single pendulum in about thirty iterations; they’ll do a double pendulum in less than two hundred if you get the discounting right.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220460",
"author": "Tom",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T22:08:59",
"content": "@James: We do indeed, here’s an undergrad attempt as wellhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kySe41A0INgWe had a rotary encoder giving us the position of the arm, and another rotary encoder giving us the number of turns of the cart’s belt drive. We then used a lab pc with Matlab to make a PID controller. Hopefully I’ll get to mess with something even more fun later in my course.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220538",
"author": "Ash",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T01:39:06",
"content": "The parts and BOM for these types of projects isn’t actually that hard to reproduceWe had to build inverted pendulums (single pendulum) for our project course, a number of groups had different concepts, but most of us used:-DC motors, some teams used steppers-Magnetic rotary encoders, some used optical encoders-H-bridges and power circuits for the motors-control was done via a microcontroller, either PIC or even on an arduinoThe toughest part was definitely tuning of the PID algorithmI dont remember exactly which sensor we used, but its on this list here:http://www.austriamicrosystems.com/eng/Products/Magnetic-Encoders/Rotary-Encoders",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220772",
"author": "Kenn Sebesta",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T12:06:29",
"content": "As everyone else has said, this is a classical controls problem, and a quite simple one at that. The fun is getting the sensors to give reliable feedback, to get the motors to behave nicely, and either correctly model the friction or eliminate it.To see a much, much better one, look here:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HDDzKxNMEYLastly, the kinematics of the situation show that an infinite number of pendulums can be balanced. The devils in the details, though.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220789",
"author": "bob",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T13:01:35",
"content": "Awesome. Great project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220950",
"author": "JMS",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T19:01:31",
"content": "I may be repeating a lot of your comments, but I did this as an undergrad in ’99 in a couple of weeks and it’s fun to reminisce. It’s usually a state-space controller that’s used if you want to be able to tell the pendulum to move to a specific position on the track and stay there, even with perturbations. PIDs are not great for this kind of thing, as they have difficulty with “snappy” recovery from a push, especially if you want the pendulum to stay in or move to one position–though they will work. To get it to work properly, you have to do something you don’t see in the “hack space” often… that is actually model the real world physics of what is going on. The system is robust with the right controller, however, in that you can change the linkage distances and weights and still get it to work well. When I put one together, It was balanced on a rotating arm connected to a motor shaft… which meant that I had to model Coriolis forces (effects), but I never ran out of “track” to play with. The way the angles are measured are often by optical encoders–good resolution and no drift/noise. The coolest thing about these setups is that if you push on the inverted pendulum, it will feel like it is attached to a spring that wants to keep the pieces upright. I like to think of the control system as “virtual springs.” As for flipping the pendulum up to vertical from hanging… no big deal there either. Actually, that’s the easiest part. You just pump the system with a sine wave at the natural frequency of the pendulum and it will eventually go vertical, at which point you switch control to the state space controller. In ’99 I did this with a break out board and a motor controller connected to a 286 running DOS. The 286 was overpowered compared to the processing needs. These projects are great for the classroom and for demonstration purposes. Also, you can code the system in such a way as to have students “plug in” their control matrices and see how they work. If you build one, don’t forget the kill switch!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220951",
"author": "JMS",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T19:03:03",
"content": "I’m surprised no one mentioned the segway.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "223014",
"author": "Ren",
"timestamp": "2010-11-30T17:16:36",
"content": "I think it needs another servo,to whack the hand that keeps trying to upset the pendulum.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "224629",
"author": "pascal",
"timestamp": "2010-12-01T02:35:25",
"content": "The ghetto version of this uses a loudspeaker with the double pendulum fixed to the surface. By selecting the right frequency to output over the speaker, the pendulums will be stable (a friend of mine did this as a high-school degree project)Also most AI toolkits seem to include an example to “evolve” the feedback loop they used (the evolved function outputs if the wagon should move left or right when given the current angles, its reinforced when the pendulums stay upright longer)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "511546",
"author": "Andrew Meyer",
"timestamp": "2011-11-18T01:09:10",
"content": "@JMS: They did–“two-wheeled balancers” is a class that includes instance Segway.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "1194713",
"author": "tutorial robot",
"timestamp": "2014-02-12T09:34:13",
"content": "This looks very simple, whether these algorithms can be used as balansing robot? the robot can make balansing can save money.belajar robot untuk anak",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,325.754497
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/11/27/barcode-challenge-for-radio-operators/
|
Barcode Challenge For Radio Operators
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Radio Hacks"
] |
[
"barcode",
"matrix",
"qr code",
"spectrograph"
] |
[Scott Harden] came across a few posts about QR code matrix barcodes coming through on the 40m baud radio band. A few operators had captured the signals and assembled them into the code block seen above but they weren’t able to get a clear enough shot for a smartphone to decode the image. [Scott] took on the challenge and
decoded the mysterious message himself
. He tried some graphic editing to separate and enhance the color channels in order to up the contrasts of the image. This helped, but still couldn’t be read automatically. In a move similar to those seen in
Hackaday’s own barcode challenges
he dropped the image into Inkscape so that he could manually clean it up. Once it was overlaid on a grid the job was pretty simple. the left side did require some more image manipulation and precision”squinting” to eliminate interference from the vertical banding, but he managed to get the message. We won’t spoil it here in case you want to take on the challenge yourself. Good luck!
| 32
| 32
|
[
{
"comment_id": "219816",
"author": "Jimmy Hartnett",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T19:08:17",
"content": "it isn’t “40m baud band” it’s the 40m band (as in 40 Meters wavelength), in digital mode (looks like a PSK31 digital mode waterfall maybe)-Jimmy, ke5tuz",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219817",
"author": "Shane",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T19:15:39",
"content": "Pro tip: When your eyes start hurting from all the squinting, use wax paper or tracing paper. Works for seeing faces and reading words in blurry photos as well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219818",
"author": "ftk",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T19:18:29",
"content": "Why not just reproduce the code pixel by pixel in like… mspaint, and resize it ?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219825",
"author": "spiderwebby",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T19:42:40",
"content": "roborealm it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219826",
"author": "o",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T19:42:40",
"content": "^this…Also, why would someone use this as a digital mode? Seems rather odd and complicated…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219827",
"author": "Owen",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T19:44:35",
"content": "It’s Yaesu’s first attempt at viral/social marketing for their amateur radio products.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219835",
"author": "Jimmy Hartnett",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T19:58:31",
"content": "@ oif you mean the barcode, it’s just for fun.if you mean the waterfall type output, here’s a basic explanation for the curious:the waterfall is a view of the the different data streams at different operating tones – it allows multiple “channels” on the same frequency by using a different audio modulation.The view shown allows the operator to graphically see all possible data signals on a frequency, then select it to open a Comm. From there it is real-time text based communication, as well as basic file sharing.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219842",
"author": "JEDITALIAN",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T20:31:11",
"content": "all you gotta do is cross your eyes and you can read it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219869",
"author": "DarkFader",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T21:27:46",
"content": "For part 2, the decoded QR has some encoded text in it too… bah :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219893",
"author": "ewan",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T22:27:55",
"content": "here is the program used to do this stuff:http://hem.passagen.se/rasmuse/Coagula.htma famous example is the aphex twin image.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-KMFxzA_Lkthe face is at about 5:25",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219908",
"author": "zool",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T22:42:48",
"content": "cool, you could put this in music and have secret messagespaul is dead~!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219913",
"author": "Alex Rossie",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T22:49:06",
"content": "pathetic that it took so long I just used dilate /erode",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "219936",
"author": "Richard",
"timestamp": "2010-11-27T23:38:46",
"content": "@ Owen: Any form of ‘on the air marketing’ done from the UK would be a breach of the UK amateur license conditions, as would responding to it from the UK regardless of where it came from… although of course there’s nothing to stop you receiving it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220020",
"author": "draeath",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T02:00:49",
"content": "So… I don’t suppose anyone wants to spoil this for those that can’t do this kind of thing themselves?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220023",
"author": "Nash",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T02:13:08",
"content": "I DID IT! i took the image above, loaded it in photoshop, established a grid, and made a per-pixel remake by hand. i then read it from my phone… i’m rather proud of myself!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220040",
"author": "Maave",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T03:01:20",
"content": "@draeathThe decoded message is at the end of the original article.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220044",
"author": "Nash",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T03:07:16",
"content": "also, i just found out that my QR code is slightly different than the one [scott] got. still got the same result, though… odd",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220051",
"author": "Joeee",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T03:43:59",
"content": "It saysWELL DONE / F4GKA QSL PSE 73#Done by blacking out a Excel sheet VY 73",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220061",
"author": "wa5znu",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T04:14:42",
"content": "In 2004 was inspired by the Apex Twin image and contacted the guy who wrote baudline about it and he gave me some pointers. I did a “Visual CQ” and eventually got the visual mode ID into fldigi.http://wa5znu.org/log/2004/09/psk-visual-cq.html",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220062",
"author": "Cory",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T04:16:03",
"content": "it links to dont-forget-to-drink-your-ovaltine.com!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220103",
"author": "DarwinSurvivor",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T06:52:43",
"content": "Does anyone know of a *working* linux application that can decode QR codes? I’ve found many libraries (both c and python) but nothing that can be just “run” on either an image or with the webcam. The only compiled decoders I can find are for phones :(",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220157",
"author": "DarwinSurvivor",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T10:08:44",
"content": "I swear, part of google’s evil algorithm is only returning useful results until *after* I’ve asked people for suggestion!http://sourceforge.net/p/decodecamera/home/Needs python2, but other than that it seems to work just fine.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220340",
"author": "Javier",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T14:43:58",
"content": "It is “WELL DONE / F4GKA QSL PSE 73”.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220385",
"author": "JEDITALIAN",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T17:15:35",
"content": "@ewan. if coagula only converts image to sound, what converts sound to images? i want the program that is in the youtube video, but it isn’t named.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220393",
"author": "JEDITALIAN",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T18:03:08",
"content": "nvm. found something with btjunkie and the word ‘spectrogram’",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220394",
"author": "JEDITALIAN",
"timestamp": "2010-11-28T18:05:05",
"content": "eh, don’t feel like converting my entire music collection to .wav just to watch the imagery",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "220714",
"author": "ferdi",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T10:05:13",
"content": "http://qrcode.kaywa.com/this link go to a page ware you can make QR codesfrom your mobile nr to site links or check the code from the photo input the text en see off the code are the same",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "221056",
"author": "pissed off ham",
"timestamp": "2010-11-29T23:09:12",
"content": "This is a neat and useless trick, bravo. One slight bitch though: If you’re going to be using obfuscating your messages with experimental encoding, please put a station ID in some kind of plaintext in your transmission somewhere. Having to go through all that just to find out the originating station is kind of bullshit, though fine with me for a one-time stunt. If this becomes a popular activity, then please put your call letters in plaintext so those of us who don’t want to solve a puzzle can know who is making the transmission.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "236491",
"author": "ker2x",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T00:01:50",
"content": "the tranmission mode used is MT-Hellhttp://www.qsl.net/zl1bpu/HELL/MT_intro.htmi played a lot with that mode on 30m (10Mhz)never tought about transmitting QRcode, but it’s easy to do.The software used to display the waterfall is DL4YHF’s spectrum laboratory.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283449",
"author": "Zom-B",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T12:59:12",
"content": "@DarwinSurvivor: Look at the ZXing project. It’s a Java implementation mainly intended for mobile phones, but with a few lines of extra code I was able to load and decode images on my pc.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "398549",
"author": "GameboyRMH",
"timestamp": "2011-05-27T14:57:38",
"content": "@DarwinSurvivor: Look at Zbar",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "398643",
"author": "Sasha",
"timestamp": "2011-05-27T19:34:00",
"content": "How is this not detected? My iPhone read this in an instant!The last to numbers are 73 for all the haters out there :p",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,325.901571
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/03/nerf-gun-converted-to-co2-powered-semi-automatic/
|
Nerf Gun Converted To CO2 Powered Semi-automatic
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Misc Hacks",
"Toy Hacks"
] |
[
"delrin",
"gun",
"nerf",
"pom",
"rifle",
"semi-automatic"
] |
[Philysteak527]
modified a Nerf rifle
, making it semi-automatic thanks to the powers of compressed air. This is not a simple change to make, and rests on his ability to design and manufacture a bolt-action that fits in the gun, works with the Nerf ammo, and uses a CO2 canister and solenoid valve for the firing action. Knowing that, it’s not surprising to find that he’s an engineering student at Stony Brook University. He started with some POM, or
polyoxymethylene plastic
sold under the brand name Delrin, and used a CNC lathe to machine the parts for the bolt. Add in some brass fittings, a solenoid, tubing, and the electronics and you’re in business.
We’ve embedded the test footage after the break. Looks like the new internals allow a rather fast firing rate (maybe 2-3 shots per second?) and achieve a distance between seventy and one hundred feet.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwA4CqpO7nI&w=470]
| 33
| 31
|
[
{
"comment_id": "241736",
"author": "Durgo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:55:17",
"content": "Want",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241913",
"author": "heatgap",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T01:35:59",
"content": "This would have been my dream “Widow Maker” nerf weapon as a kid.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242075",
"author": "lame",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T02:19:53",
"content": "I am so tired of seeing nerf gun hacks. I would rather build the steam powered rick roller.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242076",
"author": "Leithoa",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T02:19:55",
"content": "If you’re going to go through all the trouble of gutting it and replacing the internals, why bother spending the +$40 on the gun in the first place?He obviously has some machining capabilities so designing a stock and barrel for the new internals isn’t outside his skill set.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242078",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T02:20:30",
"content": "First high end paintball guns then entry level paintball guns now NERF have all gone semi auto. What’s next?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242194",
"author": "joe",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T02:35:03",
"content": "How comes that theres summer there, u livin on hawaii or woot",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242230",
"author": "WELDO",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T02:48:49",
"content": "It’s a magazine, not a clip. Christ.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242266",
"author": "arfink",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T02:58:54",
"content": "Actually, this gun probably didn’t cost him $40+, the Long Shot is being discontinued and runs a measly $15 most places right now. This looks fairly impressive, but if he’s only getting 100 feet from a fully custom breech with a CO2 tank then he’s doing something wrong…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242286",
"author": "arfink",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T03:06:51",
"content": "Nevermind, it’s just an angel breech with an odd piston. 80 feet is about right.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242391",
"author": "keenox",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T03:34:59",
"content": "a full auto version would be really nice",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242758",
"author": "Ben Wright",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T05:05:04",
"content": "From his instructable post it doesn’t seem like he want’s someone else to make one like his. He doesn’t give clear instuctions and bypasses his angled breech assembly/construction completly. He is showing off his work and then says it doesn’t work well. I give the hack a 5 out of 10.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242760",
"author": "Leithoa",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T05:05:36",
"content": "Even if the gun doesn’t cost $40, My point is your taking out everything that makes that gun *that* gun. It’s now a completely different gun so why not make it look like one? It’s not that hard to make a stock and slap some tubing on the bolt assembly to give it a barrel. I mean even the cosmetics of the original design are gone now that you’ve hung an air cylinder/line off of the front. In the span of an afternoon he could have crafted a very sleek design that didn’t have hoses and such dangling about to get snagged during Nerf wars.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242766",
"author": "Leithoa",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T05:07:27",
"content": "grrrr…. *you’re ^",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243196",
"author": "Pilotgeek",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T06:22:52",
"content": "@Leithoa: I kinda agree with you. I know people with RC Cars that replace literally THE ENTIRE thing (chassis, arms, transmission, everything) with custom parts, and it’s like, why not just build it from scratch?I think the reason is it gives the illusion of faster progress because the main thing already exists.However, this hack is still pretty sweet. It seems to work alright, but he really should include more write-up on it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243214",
"author": "SirBlade",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T06:30:12",
"content": "When does something like this stop being a toy and becomes a weapon?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243274",
"author": "Phillysteak527",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T06:48:37",
"content": "I excluded certain things for a reason, in the hands of untrained people tinkering with CO2 can be quite dangerous. I was also attempting to alleviate many headaches i had while building this.For instance the electronics, obviously I went the microcontroller route, but similar results could have been gotten with just a simple microswitch.And there is a very fine line between this and a weapon…. I know, I had to get this past campus PD in order to use it and that was harder than actually building it.I am going to add a few things to the instructable when I have time (In finals mode right now)…. I just don’t know how much more I can give, I gave detailed drawings of the bolt assembly, which honestly is the key if anyone wanted to recreate this.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243405",
"author": "longbow486",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T07:26:26",
"content": "Would have been a lot more interesting read if it wasn’t on instructables, so many pictures that I could look at and oogle over :-(Looks like he put a lot of effort into it, and looks like it shoots well.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243635",
"author": "acidv705",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T08:17:50",
"content": "engineering student. modified nerf gun. this kid clearly plays HvZ. i love the mod",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "244352",
"author": "SeanC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T10:51:38",
"content": "For all you asking why he didn’t change the look; its because we play a game on our University Campus called Humans Vs. Zombies. The gun was planned to be used but, it was obviously too modified and changing the body of the gun would have gone too far so give the kid a break",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246179",
"author": "Chris Muncy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T16:07:35",
"content": "I agree with longbow486Any project posted on HAD that links back to Instructables I will boycott.(psssst: when ya getting a user forum up guys??? )",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "246297",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T16:36:35",
"content": "@Chris Muncy and Longbow486,yeah, instructables is obnoxious. We’re not going to ignore those projects though. However, we would love to support a better alternative. Got any suggestions?-caleb",
"parent_id": "246179",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "246494",
"author": "Fallen",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T17:52:28",
"content": ":P Someone needs to write a script to rip the instructables contents of worthy hacks, and then host it in a less obnoxious manor.(While obviously giving credit to the creator of the hack.)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "246632",
"author": "Caleb Kraft",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T18:41:20",
"content": "@fallen,its the hosting in a less obnoxious manner part that gets tricky. It can be costly to host that much stuff. Gotta pay the bills somehow. You either charge people to host their projects or run ads. I would LOVE to make a cleaner more professional system than instructables, but that just isn’t a quick and easy task.",
"parent_id": "246494",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "246678",
"author": "moddersunited",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T19:01:43",
"content": "Impractical",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247346",
"author": "J",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:32:55",
"content": "“Coming to a TOYS-R-US near you…”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247359",
"author": "556NATO",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:36:18",
"content": "I love the comment about getting past campus PD. Had the same problem with paintball guns, you can’t even keep parts of guns in the front of your car here without them freaking out. Funny, because I can keep a loaded pistol on my lap due to my pistol license, but can’t keep an empty paintball gun in the back seat!!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247583",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T22:45:33",
"content": "@sirblade: when you use it to commit a crime. It’s still a toy, and even if it fires faster and further than the original it’s not going to hurt anyone unless they choke on a dart or get one right in the eye at close range or something.But if you use it to hold up a bank or something, or put AA batteries in it and go around breaking windows, then the police will have something to say.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248275",
"author": "Gdogg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T01:11:18",
"content": "This is pretty cool. I wish I realized earlier how easily I could make one of these, having so much paintball equipment (aka air regulators) laying around.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "250801",
"author": "octel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T12:19:42",
"content": "neckbeards everywhere begin quivering in jealousy",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "257654",
"author": "doh",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T13:14:23",
"content": "Nice to see it went better than my first attempt at a compressed gas (gas state substance, not natural gas, duh!) which was made out of PVC pipe and had a habit of firing the air storage tank off rather than the nerf dart.For now though, I think I’ll stick to doing the old rubber band and air restrictor mod on those cheap nerf pistols.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "259901",
"author": "walt",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T22:06:49",
"content": "instructables BOOOOO!!!!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "283687",
"author": "Decon",
"timestamp": "2010-12-13T22:47:00",
"content": "He’s goes to stony brook university!? thats right in my town! I gotta find him and tell him to show me this thing!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "411986",
"author": "HI, HEHEHE",
"timestamp": "2011-07-01T03:32:56",
"content": "u could just get a cheap paintball gun 4 like 25 bucks and stick a dart in the barrel i get 100+ feet",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,325.672427
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/03/make-your-own-tsa-naked-scanner/
|
Make Your Own TSA “Naked” Scanner
|
James Munns
|
[
"classic hacks",
"Medical Hacks"
] |
[
"enhanced",
"millimeter",
"naked",
"nude",
"satellite",
"scan",
"TSA"
] |
Have you ever wanted to ability to see through objects? Perhaps you have been looking for something special for your own personal TSA role playing adventures? Well, [Jeri Ellsworth] has your back. She has managed to cobble together her own
millimeter
centimeter wave scanner
using a hacked set of
Feed Horns
(like from a satellite dish) to create the image. By reversing the power transistor on one of the Feed Horns, one of the horns is made into a transmitter, while one of the other horns stays as a receiver. This data is then fed into a FPGA by way of an A2D converter, where an image is assembled when the scanner is moved over a surface. X and Y axis tracking is handled by an optical mouse also controlled by the FPGA, and the whole setup is output to a monitor.
Right now there is no text write up, or any specific details as the hack will vary by whatever Feed Horn is available. However, the video does a great job of explaining some of the electrical concepts, as well as some very useful schematics. Be sure to watch the whole video after the break, and don’t blame us for any health complications, whether the radiation is ionizing or not.
[youtube =
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDyo_OQFdAc&w=470%5D
| 82
| 50
|
[
{
"comment_id": "241485",
"author": "Erik Johnson",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:52:47",
"content": "You mean “TSA Rape Scan” or “Pornographer”?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "4218198",
"author": "tim",
"timestamp": "2017-11-25T05:11:23",
"content": "fool, rape isn’t a non-contact event.",
"parent_id": "241485",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "241501",
"author": "Jeri Ellsworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:56:25",
"content": "One correction should be to the mm wave. This is at 2-3cm.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241502",
"author": "Necromant",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:56:27",
"content": "Wow. Looks like Jeri accelerates her hacking speed to more then 3 hpm (Hack-Per-Month, is that measuring unit suitable? )… or even more. Great work, anyway.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "992208",
"author": "Wes Peters",
"timestamp": "2013-04-11T19:09:14",
"content": "Hah, maybe we should name the unit “hacks per month” to Jeris. I’m currently managing about 0.1 Jeris.",
"parent_id": "241502",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "241521",
"author": "James Munns",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:00:47",
"content": "@Jeri,Thanks for the correction, I’ve updated the post.Also, excellent hack. Very cool stuff!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241545",
"author": "xeracy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:06:21",
"content": "i had no problem watching this at my desk, until she started yelling at the end. serves me right.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241551",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:07:29",
"content": "Haha I watched it without sound and the intro seemed a bit NSFW.Nice work though, very interesting project.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241569",
"author": "heatgap",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:13:00",
"content": "Jeez Jeri! Your brilliant! I love the TSA rips! I love how you used the 3 LNBs to get this done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241570",
"author": "jamessnell",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:13:16",
"content": "Seriously, I love Jeri’s mind. She makes such awesome hacks. I adore that she also finds ample time to do these awesome things.:)Nice one Jeri.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241603",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:22:02",
"content": "i’ve been wondering what you could hack those things on the satellites to do, and what they were called lol",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241616",
"author": "Jeri Ellsworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:25:14",
"content": "heatgap – This will work with a single LNB too. I just happened to find that one a the junk store.jamessnell – Thanks. You make some snazzy hacks too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241667",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:34:03",
"content": "i must say that Jeri Ellsworth is the most intelligent hacker i’ve seen on HaD, with the most informative videos. i will also say that i don’t know shit about transistors, what they really do.. i’ve probably put about 3 of them in a circuit before, but i was following instructions.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241734",
"author": "Gravis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:53:41",
"content": "one step closer to xray vision glasses. ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241756",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T01:04:18",
"content": "Wow she does have some very nice ti..ps. I didn’t get half of it, but it was impressive none the less.I love the soldering gun mod :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241982",
"author": "majolsurf",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T01:55:25",
"content": "Very impressive hack!What’s interesting is the RF stage is designed to process Doppler shift, but the scanner moves laterally across the surface. Where does the Doppler component come from?Are you getting getting a baseline reading where no target is present or is there no frequency present at all?Ideally if there is no target reflection then the only signal coming from the mixer would be slight L.O. leakage which the amp/adc could not resolve. I’m wondering if the material being penetrated slows the RF enough to cause a shift…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241984",
"author": "dave",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T01:56:16",
"content": "I believe the technical name for one of those MM wave scanners the TSA uses is “pornotron” as in “Please either step into the pornotron or you’ll be subjected to a standard TSA gate rape.”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242293",
"author": "j_jwalrus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T03:08:45",
"content": "“im not an alien, i have more than three fingers”I think female hackers are pretty alien in this carbon based society. too bad we don’t thrive in arsenic rich environments.+1upWhat is the method you use for displaying the signal? us script kiddies are curious.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242320",
"author": "Jeri Ellsworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T03:15:11",
"content": "It’s entirely rendered in the FPGA and displayed on a VGA monitor. This could be done with a PC and a sound card or a cheap MCU. It required no computational power.The amplifier is needed.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242340",
"author": "Reg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T03:21:10",
"content": "The only person I’ve seen to touch Jeri was the Brit who built a ruling engine that trumped all the major players back 40+ years ago. Instead of trying to make a perfect screw, he used an interferometer to regulate an imperfect screw. Because his errors were random, there were no Rowland’s ghosts. A few years earlier Scientific American had a series on ruling engines which made much of amateurs failing and destroying their lives in the process.Way to go Jeri!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242369",
"author": "j_jwalrus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T03:28:45",
"content": "waiting on those link then :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242841",
"author": "alan turing's dog",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T05:30:22",
"content": "There is a certain change in social and behavioral interaction patterns that can occur when hacker types start to gain a large audience, be it paying clients or the blogosphere.One discovers that notoriety of speech and opinion tends to increase your audience, especially if your attitudes, opinions or abilities are “interesting” to a large segment of that audience… or even just interesting to those individuals in charge of discretionary spending.That means that the more “out there” elements JE adds to her videos, the larger her audience becomes. I know a number of people who have found interesting niche consulting gigs based on striking a sympathetic note with patrons of the arts – even when those arts happen to be AI, mathematics or biology.As",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "247223",
"author": "Jobo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T21:06:08",
"content": "Your point being?",
"parent_id": "242841",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "242859",
"author": "Pookie",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T05:34:18",
"content": "Brilliant. Head and shoulders above the average hack. Awe and envy.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242898",
"author": "RadBrad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T05:43:16",
"content": "Great!Brad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242963",
"author": "gregman_1",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T05:54:51",
"content": "Hmmmm…I have a set of feed horns in the junk pile from my Wifi dish project a while back. Not that I could come anywhere near this hack, but hey, a guy can dream.And since everyone seems to tiptoe around it on Jeri posts, I’ll say it:A smart, creative, articulate woman who also happens to be quite attractive: Proof that there is a God.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243124",
"author": "cf",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T06:10:00",
"content": "@Jeri – Just curious, why did you do the video generation and everything in an FPGA, rather than just feeding it into a computer?I’m always surprised to find another person that prefers writing RTL to just programming a CPU.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243183",
"author": "jaspel",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T06:18:18",
"content": "I know its overkill, but I’d love to see a blackfin application.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243294",
"author": "alan turing's dog",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T06:54:47",
"content": "Follow your nose – it leads to the burning man festival of the semiconductor industry. I don’t take photos, but you can work backwards.http://www.cmoset.com/uploads/Paul_van_Zeijl_2010.pdf",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243468",
"author": "qwerty",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T07:42:53",
"content": "Jeri, when you build your starship will you please let me visit it before leaving Earth? Thanks!BTW It would also be interesting to use those modified feed horns to communicate. Basic frequency modulation of the reversed transistor shouldn’t be that hard to obtain unless one doesn’t aim at very precise deviation and/or frequency stability. I believe sending voice and low to medium data rate should be possible.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "4550072",
"author": "An engineer",
"timestamp": "2018-05-13T13:23:58",
"content": "Radio amateurs have already been doing that for 20-30 years using re-purposed satellite equipment. I am astounded that people are so amazed by this “hack”…",
"parent_id": "243468",
"depth": 2,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "4550767",
"author": "Elliot Williams",
"timestamp": "2018-05-13T18:38:36",
"content": "This post is (now) eight years old. I’m surprised that you’re posting a pointless “not a hack” comment here, nearly a decade too late to be read by anyone except the moderators.Anyway, post links or it didn’t happen.",
"parent_id": "4550072",
"depth": 3,
"replies": []
}
]
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "243591",
"author": "fluidic",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T08:11:08",
"content": "One is converted into a transmitter and one remains a receiver. Okay.What does the third one do? Play “Yankee Doodle”?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243998",
"author": "s",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T09:43:36",
"content": "Did you try to pick the RF LO to feed the transmitter after the Wilkinson power divider instead directly from the buffer LO output so that the receiver downconverter LO fed will be less disturbed?May be that with a proper LO feed to the TX the distance range (or S/N ratio) could be incresased.(The printed filters on the PCB could be removed (soldering iron+razor blade) and a microstrip line (super)glued all along the way)I think that circular polarization helps in this case. The bounced signal will reverse the polarization while if it were linear the losses probably will be much higher.This video remembered me your magnetic field “magic wand” scanner from the old happy days. Thanks Jeri.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "244246",
"author": "elektrophreak",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T10:28:31",
"content": "this is very very cool!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "244647",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T11:34:47",
"content": "Can’t watch the video, it has freaking ads on it, I don’t watch crappy ads, to hell with the new google who refuses to advertise on torrentsites and changes searchresults for the mediamafia and then puts ads on youtubes.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "244690",
"author": "ox",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T11:38:22",
"content": "MARRY ME!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "4163515",
"author": "paulie",
"timestamp": "2017-10-24T21:20:24",
"content": "I don’t think she is ordained, or otherwise legally allowed to conduct marriage or similar services :-)",
"parent_id": "244690",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "245154",
"author": "me",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T12:45:44",
"content": "I ask myself whether jery has a full time job.I do not have the time for such hacks anymore.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "245568",
"author": "Kevbo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T13:47:00",
"content": "Jeri still has yet to get back to me on my order for high-energy microwave horns to use on subjects during the zombie apocalypse. I mean, on zombies, of course… ahem.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "245893",
"author": "zeropointmodule",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T14:45:21",
"content": "heh, this is really cool.certainly should be useful for us HV’ers for examining flybacks, triplers and suchlike (helpfully plastic casing) to find out where to drill to series connect them..also useful if you need to detect hidden transmitters etc in wood or plastic ornaments..",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "245971",
"author": "Jeri Ellsworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T15:15:44",
"content": "Fluidic – everything happens down one feedhorn. The other two are unused.S – I’m a microwave novice, so I’m sure there are many ways to improve this. I could see reflections from this 5-6ft away in open air.me – I’m in a down time right now. With a little luck I’ll continue my contract after the holidays, although I still devote a lot of hack time during work. I’m a nerd with no life.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246273",
"author": "Everett",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T16:31:21",
"content": "After staring for over an hour, I still don’t see any brass knuckles in that picture ;)Wonderful hack. What about using the center feedhorn as the transmitter, and the two outer ones as receivers? I realize my feeble attempt at “stereoscopic vision,” for this will be met with, “won’t someone think of the low resolution,” but wouldn’t you interpolate some based on the increase in information available (see dimensionality)? Okay, I guess I’ll try it (I happen to have an unused feedhorn here).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246332",
"author": "HackerK",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T16:54:32",
"content": "Jeri, you are awesome. And it is getting rare to have people (esp. young and female) who knows there analog stuff these days.I like how you using a mouse as tracking and a FPGA as the ‘brain’.BTW, I have one of those razor scanner too.. ;)Good job, well done.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246448",
"author": "Nate",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T17:33:42",
"content": "Jeri could body scan me any day… perfect ending to her video",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246455",
"author": "ehrichweiss",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T17:36:07",
"content": "@Jeri, Excellent build.. I’m considering a couple of ideas that may replace the mouse but I’m gonna have to think about it for a while before I know if they’re feasible.. Regardless, this was very well put together.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246481",
"author": "me",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T17:46:53",
"content": "Good luck Jeri for getting the contract and keep on the hacking! :DDon’t be normal and boring. ;)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246524",
"author": "CGross",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T18:00:51",
"content": "HEY GUYS, THIS HACKER IS A GIRL.You can tell by the over the top useless cleavage shot.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246567",
"author": "nes",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T18:15:41",
"content": "I like the way an optical mouse tracks the movement. Are the optics modified to give an infinite focus or is there an extra lens or two in there somewhere? I think if there is a problem with it drifting, it’s possible to read the camera directly over PS2 and do a better tracking algorithm yourself.Nice knuckle duster too :-) The first thing I did after CNCing my mill was to carve one of those from a bit of scrap steel plate.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246760",
"author": "Dom",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T19:34:58",
"content": "A few years ago when I was at school I did some work experience with a company called QinetiQ in my home town Malvern. I got to spend one of the days in a lab were they where developing mm wave imaging, from what I can remember they had just one sensor (or whatever it is) and the waves were reflected off tinfoil inside a large foam rotating disk (over a meter in diameter) so that an image could be made up one pixel at a time. I think I the researchers name was Rupert. This must be going back to 2001. I returned in 2003 and got to see the machine again, this time it was so much more refined, and now its being used for real, awesome. I have really fond memory working with QinetiQ.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247119",
"author": "Truth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T20:37:55",
"content": "Very cool – like your own personal X-ray machine, using harmless* microwaves instead.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247842",
"author": "Jeri Ellsworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T23:41:22",
"content": "nes – Currently it needs to be placed on a flat surface. I scanned my leg with a pair of pliers laying on them. I used a piece of thin rigid plastic for the surface. I could tell what was going on, but it wasn’t a good demo for the video.I had considered several options before choosing the mouse. My first plan was to make an x/y table, but I didn’t think I had strong enough steppers. I almost built this with potentiometers on arms to register the location.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "247916",
"author": "Bill \"DudeMan\" Perry",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T23:53:18",
"content": "For majolsurf,The Doppler component actually comes from the lateral sweep. It helps to think of the scanner as being a stationary 2-dimensional object.Doppler shift measures velocity, either toward or away from the transmitter/scanner.When you sweep the thing back and forth, that is indistinguishable from the object being scanned moving back and forth.What the doppler shift measures in this case is the velocity of movement found in the contours of the object being scanned.Imagine it like if you’re holding the scanner stationary, and the object is 12 inches away, then you start to sweep back and forth, and curves and contours in the object being scanned are at different (slightly) distances than 12 inches.This will register as a doppler change in velocity.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248840",
"author": "mook",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T03:52:48",
"content": "Amazing hack. For those concerned or knowledgeable on the negative effects:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radiation_hormesisCan anyone shed light on whether this is applicable or if it’s damaging in the first place?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "4550078",
"author": "An engineer",
"timestamp": "2018-05-13T13:25:37",
"content": "“Radiation hormesis is the hypothesis that low doses of ionizing radiation…”This is microwaves – not ionising, therefore the link is not relevant (non-thermal effects may still be an issue, but not ionising effects)",
"parent_id": "248840",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "250120",
"author": "xorpunk",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T08:56:40",
"content": "Airport ones are also backscatter, but have better amp bus and use wider physical “tunnels” so they don’t need tracking. Also the DAC data is scaled to higher resolution for clarity.The other type that does 3D aren’t used anywhere except maybe NASA and government forensics.This can be made better even cheaper.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251161",
"author": "Jeri Ellsworth",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T13:58:22",
"content": "cf – I missed your question last time I stopped in. I used an FPGA, because I could prototype this in a much shorter time. I’m a chip designer by day, so working with PC’s and all the overhead of OS’s and non-realtime annoys me. This could be done with just the instrumentation amp and a sound card audio input.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,325.603747
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/03/water-blob-launcher/
|
Water-blob Launcher
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Misc Hacks"
] |
[
"launcher",
"pneumatic",
"PVC",
"valve",
"water balloon"
] |
This
rifle-shaped water cannon
looks great and packs a big punch. We guess you could say that it’s a water balloon launcher, but the balloons are torn off and drop like the wad from a shotgun shell when fired. So we think this launches water blobs, or orbs, or something along those lines.
[Wolf] built it using PVC and some brass fittings that allow for the injection of compressed air. There’s a slick valve system that he developed which we don’t get a great look at in the build pictures. Fortunately, there’s an animated GIF that shows the various stages. Using his valve there’s no need for any electrical system like a lot of other
pneumatic launcher systems
use.
Just like
the water-filled ping-pong gun
, you’ve got to be careful with this thing. As you can see in the clip after the break there’s lethal force behind these projectiles. Especially when [Wolf] swaps out the water balloons for big steel darts.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRk6-fdAL4M&w=470]
| 39
| 37
|
[
{
"comment_id": "241249",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T22:48:42",
"content": "[Sarcasm] Alright! Another compressed air and PVC gun! [/Sarcasm]Compressed air and PVC do not mix. Shattered under 100+ psi PVC is really dangerous.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241251",
"author": "Convictus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T22:50:03",
"content": "The thing you see falling away is wadding so that the air force doesn’t make the balloon pop. He says as much at one point in the video. Not water orbs definitely water balloons.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241300",
"author": "fireraisr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:05:06",
"content": "while the application might be dangerous because it’s built from pvc, the concept is awesome. The way the ball maintains it’s form through flight is great. I imagine it could leave some decent bruises too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241308",
"author": "arfink",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:07:12",
"content": "Hmm, if you pressurize PVC to 100+ PSI willingly you’re either crazy or stupid or both. But a PVC backpressure release tank like that would be useful for making a mondo nerf gun where pressures would stay below 40 PSI.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241320",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:10:03",
"content": "Another dumbass kid. Instead of shooting the car door he should have done the gene pool a favor and shot at his nuts.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241325",
"author": "Joshua K",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:11:26",
"content": "Can you say “Railway Rifle” ? =)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241330",
"author": "arfink",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:12:30",
"content": "vonskippy- you’ve obviously never experienced the childlike joy of unadulterated destruction, have you? Fun times. :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241331",
"author": "sneakypoo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:12:32",
"content": "No… the balloons don’t tear off and drop, that’s wadding you’re seeing. He even mentions the wadding in the video. Besides, think about it for a second, do you honestly think a water “drop” that size would stay intact on its own when blasted out the end of a cannon?If you still don’t believe me, take a look at the slomo clip when he fires it straight up. See that thing that goes off to the side? Looks awfully similar to a sabot, doesn’t it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241361",
"author": "Bad Idea",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:25:09",
"content": "whoever writes the articles either doesn’t watch the videos, or listen…that was just the wadding used to prevent the balloon from rupturing. I see these mistakes a lot.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241366",
"author": "Aviator747",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:27:13",
"content": "Sounds like a blooper gernade launcher.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241389",
"author": "Noob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:34:14",
"content": "Agreed that is the wadding not the baloon.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241401",
"author": "h_2_o",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:38:19",
"content": "interesting but i don’t like the advertising part of this. he really doesn’t show anything that has to do with the valve really or trigger mech all he does is show it off then say if you want one give me 300 on ebay. might as well just had a big paid ad for this dude on the front page. sorry but IMHO remove this as it adds nothing at all to this site.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "4147617",
"author": "Phoghat",
"timestamp": "2017-10-18T20:45:00",
"content": "” which we don’t get a great look at in the build pictures. ” NSS. I thought I’d be able to build FOLLOWING HIS INSTRUCTIONS, which he doesn’t give. (BTW, steel pipe would be my choice here)",
"parent_id": "241401",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "241451",
"author": "macona",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:42:45",
"content": "That is not PVC, its ABS. Even worse under pressure.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241468",
"author": "fireraisr",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:47:39",
"content": "ah, I see it now. Was watching in low res so it looked like the balloon blew. now it’s not as cool since it’s just a glorified spud gun.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241481",
"author": "JeremyC",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:51:35",
"content": "Wow, I made something like that in college – should have put it on the internet first. I could never figure out how to make a good stock for it like this guy did. So pretty cool from that standpoint…160 PSI though? That’s too close to the burst strength for my taste – I don’t think I ever pumped it past 80 or so. You don’t really know how well it was manufactured or if there are scratches.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": [
{
"comment_id": "4147620",
"author": "Phoghat",
"timestamp": "2017-10-18T20:47:37",
"content": "Jörg Sprave made a cannon using steel pipe, up to 3000 psi",
"parent_id": "241481",
"depth": 2,
"replies": []
}
]
},
{
"comment_id": "241624",
"author": "24601",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:27:49",
"content": "If I’m not mistaken, the valve he made for this is similar to the one in a pneumatic nailgun. At least, they seem to operate in a similar way.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241687",
"author": "techartisan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:39:15",
"content": "“That is not PVC, its ABS. Even worse under pressure.Posted at 3:42 pm on Dec 3rd, 2010 by macona”Because its black? Nope….Its PVC. He painted it….see page 2 step 4 of his “build” where he “styles it up”",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241740",
"author": "jeditalian",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:57:12",
"content": "REGULATORS!!now, go regulate.if they ain’t violating, ass shot is warning shot. if they need some sense knocked into their thick skulls, go for the headshot..(BUT OFFICER IT WAS ONLY A WATER BALLOON!)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241742",
"author": "Eirinn",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:58:07",
"content": "Since when does plastic shatter? Sure it ruptures or breaks, but shattering…eeh probably not. It’d have to be some serious hardened sheit i don’t think pvc comes close to this – pvc is still quite bendable. ABS i believe would be more likely to shatter. Also he says it handles up to 160 psi, if it would “shatter” over a 100 psi then i’m pretty sure 160 would have done it. I want solid evidence on the pvc “shattering”, not this “i heard someone say, he heard someone say this 12 years ago”.“the less you know the more assumptions you have” – whether this applies to me or the people i comment, i don’t know.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241762",
"author": "the air cannon guy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T01:04:52",
"content": "The valve…thats a piston exhaustive valve, it was adapted for air cannon use a long time ago and is used for high volume, quick releases of air; usually to blow out grain silos and the like.ABS has a higher PSI rating than basic PVC of the same thickness.Shooting liquids out of an air cannon atomizes it quite well. Try putting someone against a concrete wall. Instant silhouette and wet t-shirt contest winner in one.120 PSI in a SCH 40 pipe made in the United States or Canada isn’t a worry…just don’t drop it as the pipe can and does shatter, shooting large sharp bits across the yard and hitting my-err a potential neigbor’s house.And finally if you think this is crazy and dangerous to do in plastics… look up hybrid cannons. They use compressed air and compressed propane in the right ratio. Personally it is alot more fun to use oxygen but it is hard to get the mixture right as it is self igniting(think two simultaneous valve releases).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242007",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T02:04:05",
"content": "Try this out. Don’t actually DO it – this is a thought experiment only.Take two PVC caps and a length of 3 or 4″ PVC. Drill out one end and put a nipple and a ball valve on it. Fill it up to 160 PSI.Brand new PVC (even schedule 40) can technically *handle* it. It will not leak or explode. But then drop it on the ground. Or hit it with a hammer. Or get it cold so it gets a bit more brittle and then smack it around. As soon as a stress crack of any type forms – boom. Everybody has cracked PVC – it isn’t that hard to do. And that is without 160 PSI (which in a 3 or 4″ tube can be literally tons of pressure) of air behind it.My point is, at some point it is going to fail. Catastrophically. And in a fraction of a second. Like a small bomb would. Only the PVC crates sharp edges. Which act like shrapnel.Anything can explode under pressure an nobody is arguing we can’t or shouldn’t have fun. Hell, I have fired potato cannons and I loved it. But if you want to do something like that, please do it right. Don’t use 160+ psi of air inside a large volume of PVC. Because it will very possibly shatter catastrophically and when it does it will very likely hurt you very badly.This is the same reason when I have put on firework shows that I use fiberglass tubes and not PVC.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242062",
"author": "Leithoa",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T02:15:43",
"content": "PVC definately shatters even when it’s not containing compressed gasses. You can try it yourself just by smacking a section with a hammer, the pieces chip off.This is why they use HDPE(which doesn’t shatter) or parallel wound paper tubes to launch mortars for professional fireworks shows",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242074",
"author": "Charles P. Lamb",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T02:19:38",
"content": "OK, so if ABS and PVC are not safe which materials would be safe?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242235",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T02:50:38",
"content": "Steel, stainless steel, fiberglass, brass, aluminum, cast iron… even PVC would be “fine” if it was wrapped in epoxy and fiberglass. Other things would work too – magnesium (really, really light weight) titanium, etc.If we are talking about less than 200 psi, my personal suggestion would be for a fairly thin bored aluminum.Glass reinforced polypropylene might work too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242254",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T02:55:50",
"content": "Teflon might work – not sure its failure mode in this condition though? Duct tape reinforced PVC to protect it from impacts and attempt to contain the shards if it failed? Copper tubing would work.Anything that has a high enough tensile strength, isn’t brittle and obviously is non toxic and can withstand water and the elements and be affordable.The first supersoakers used PET plastic, the kind used on nearly all soda bottles. Then they switched to…. don’t quote me on this… thick walled HDPE plastic.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242339",
"author": "axodus",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T03:21:10",
"content": "@Charles P. Lamb,for your next canon try duct-tape :PMythBusters proven :)youtube.com/watch?v=3gio6k9KycM",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242401",
"author": "Wolf",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T03:37:15",
"content": "To address some of the complaints about building the cannon out of PVC: 2″ sch40 pvc has a rated pressure of 166psi but I wouldn’t exactly call this cutting it close. Based on a quick google search the actual minimum burst pressure is nearly 900psi.http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-pressures-d_796.htmlI’d be more worried if the air chamber had any protrusions or joints, but aside from throwing the cannon around there’s really no way to put leverage on it, so I don’t feel like I’m stressing it too much.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242427",
"author": "heatgap",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T03:42:53",
"content": "I love the pilot-valve idea! If only I would have thought of that idea as a kid making potato cannons!Brilliant bro. You seem like a cool cat too.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242850",
"author": "aEx155",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T05:32:42",
"content": "Over at Spudfiles this kind of valve would be known as a “toolie-style” piston valve.As long as you take care of the PVC (don’t drop it, don’t expose it to extreme temperatures or conditions) the pressure rating on it will hold. That way you can avoid PVC’s pretty bad failure mode better.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243243",
"author": "myself",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T06:39:25",
"content": "Fine naysayers, stick an arduino on the side and call it a hack then, or maybe some brass bits, and call it steampunk.also:Has everyone here blown up an pressurized pvc pipe? or are you all parroting the safety patrol?Seriously, you kids must solder in welding aprons and face shields.I think it’s sweet. Nice work.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243399",
"author": "CutThroughStuffGuy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T07:25:04",
"content": "It’s not the intended impacts on the PVC that concern me, it is the accidental ones. You are correct that 2″ PVC really isn’t likely to burst at 160ish PSI. That’s the working pressure. The burst is several times as much, typically 3 – 6. But those are perfect world conditions, assuming no physical damage is going to happen to the PVC. But you can’t reasonably guarantee that. Drop it from about 5 feet onto a sharp rock and it might literally explode under only 160 PSI. Because it cracked. Nothing is there to contain said blast, hence the danger. It’s the same reason why you don’t run air lines in your shop in PVC. I run mine in aluminum.I design and build 1″ NPT 10,000 PSI systems that are braided stainless steel and pressure rated to handle the pressures the equipment is rated to produce (which in that case maxes out at about 7,500 PSI – and my waterjet puts out 60,000 PSI. Both machines have pressure relief valves as well as use material appropriate to the application (in both cases stainless steel double braid and solid tubing respectively).If there was a properly set pressure relief valve and either the correct material or at the minimum quite a few layers of duct tape to protect and attempt to contain any explosion, I would consider a device like this marginally safe to use. With neither of those in place, this is, in my opinion, an intrinsically unsafe device.I suppose if you had a pressure regulator feeding air into the device it would be a BIT safer but what if it is set wrong or fails to operate properly? At least most air compressors can’t generally produce more than about 160 PSI.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "244048",
"author": "bob",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T09:52:56",
"content": "He ought to get himself a defense contract, improve the design for mass production, and make a bajillion dollars. I could see these used as a non-lethal weapon at riots or heavy border crossings.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246399",
"author": "Leithoa",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T17:11:33",
"content": "http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/files/s10314451_128.jpgGranted this is from a Hybrid cannon, and not a strictly pneumatic one, but the evidence still stands. and this is Sch 80(hence the grey color) which is much stronger than Sch 40 pvcThese guys took what looks to be 3″ sch 40 and did drop tests on it at 140psig with a 2lb(?) weight and it survived everything but a hit from 12ft after it had been removed from a domestic freezer.http://www.crazybuilders.com/item.php?id=000010&type=project_sectionA few things to keep in mind is that the blows were over a rather larger surface, so if you drop your cannon and it lands on a sharp edge a smaller fall could lead to catastrophic failure. And all of the experiments were done with ‘new’ pipe. ‘New’ pipe meaning it hadn’t been toted around for a year, dropped during your move or exposed to years of UV rays to degrade the PVC.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246691",
"author": "Itwork4me",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T19:06:23",
"content": "Safety patrol says that wearing eye protection is still important when working with water arms.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "253648",
"author": "medwardl",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T00:46:46",
"content": "I don’t see what the problem with PVC is it would only require a bit of strengthening up to go well past 100 psi.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258849",
"author": "willow",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:01:46",
"content": "I have to say I’m actually a bit worried about this HAD post. I love the fact they feature this stuff, but this one needs several safety warnings!This isn’t a hack, for one, it’s a well-known method of making air-launchers. The design isn’t unique to the author, it was developed years ago. He hasn’t really done anything unique, or hacked anything.. he *did* do a good job on the internals and the woodstock.. that’s about it.Anything using a pressurized chamber needs pressure relief valves/burst-discs. It’s a fail-safe measure for the ‘oops’ moments or the Murphy’s Law problems.Regardless of the pressure-rating stamped/printed on the PVC, nobody here (including the author) has taken into account pressure-DE-rating which you need to do!With a maximum operating pressure of 166psi and an ambient air temperature of 80F, your max psi drops to 149, and at 90F drops to 124. This doesn’t take into account the fittings.. merely the piping itself.There’s no gauge to show actual pressure on the pressure chamber, you’re relying on the air-supply’s regulator. Pressure vessels should always have a gauge of some sort.. coupled with relief valves.Another reccomended item, but not required, is a way to dump the air from the vessel without firing it.For his previous model, the LAW1 (Light Antitank Weapon btw, a common paintball term), I didn’t read any info on it.. but hopefully he wasn’t using high pressure on that either.A lot of people forget those valves have maximum operating pressures as well, and most of the cheaper valves use ABS for the pressure-body. The higher-end units used pressure-rated ABS or fiberglass-reinforced plastics, with operating pressures 160-200psi. Rainbird Industrial models are known for this quality.I build PVC/Metal-styled LAW units as a hobby, have been doing it for a decade. Safety isn’t overlooked in my units, and I encourage others to focus on safety when they build these. I have seen PVC shatter (contrary to what some people think), and have known someone to almost die as a result of it. The shrapnel missed his jugular by about 1/8″.This was a result of not using a safety-relief valve or a pressure gauge, and his air-source-regulator was apparently inaccurate.HAD editors: You really should post some basic safety warnings such as ‘at your own risk’ with these sorts of things, or get someone on the staff who knows what to look for regarding this particular category.I love the quality of the author’s work on the internals, and I love seeing air-cannons, but there should be some measure of safety involved on this.One final note, a properly-designed pressure-chamber/barrel can do the same or better with regard to velocity/distance, using less pressure.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258886",
"author": "willow",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:09:52",
"content": "I completely missed the fact he put screws into the sidewall of the PVC, another DO NOT. It puts a weak spot into the sidewall of single-wall PVC. If you need to do such, you are supposed to use a PVC slip-over coupling, glued in place.This strengthens the wall from hairlike-fissures which do develop from the threads.*facepalm*",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,326.041166
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/03/benddesk-multi-touch-furniture/
|
BendDesk Multi-touch Furniture
|
Mike Szczys
|
[
"Multitouch Hacks"
] |
[
"camera",
"desk",
"frustratedtotalinternalreflection",
"infrared",
"ir",
"projector"
] |
The
BendDesk is a horizontal and a vertical multi-touch display
connected as one curved surface. Think of it as a smart white-board and a multi-touch desk all in one. It can be used to sort and edit information, or to play games. Check out “Bend Invaders”, a game demonstrated in the video after the break. When you touch two fingers to the display the two points are used to aim a laser at the oncoming monsters.
The system uses a combination of two projectors shining on the surface from underneath and behind. A series of LEDs around the edges of the display bathe it in infrared light. Three cameras with IR filters peer at the underside of the acrylic surface and detect touches by distinguishing variances in the IR pattern through a process called
Frustrated Total Internal Reflection
. If you’re interested in more of the math and science involved there are a couple of papers available from the project site linked at the top of this post.
We’ve seen so many
displays using the Kinect
lately, it’s refreshing to see one that doesn’t.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VNTPwVvLzE&w=470]
[Thanks Ferdinand via
Flabber
(NSFW)]
| 23
| 23
|
[
{
"comment_id": "240335",
"author": "Addidis",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T19:44:59",
"content": "Awesome, I want one ! :)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240353",
"author": "Graham",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T19:50:23",
"content": "Link is unfortunately broken, but let me be the first to say… I WANT ONE!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240360",
"author": "xeracy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T19:52:10",
"content": "My employer recently purchased two SmartBoards, plus two SmartTablets. These are commercial SINGLE-TOUCH screens (51″ plasma and 20-something” portable LCD) with a software host program to facilitate writing directly on top of the screen and saving those markups, as well as sharing the screen to client computers via network or the internet. The 51″ screens cost $15,000 each and did not include a computer to run the included software on the provided screen (nor mounting options for the screen). With all these open-source and DIY multi-touch projects, I believe I could have built four multi-touch setups (with computers, projectors, etc) for under $15,000. My boss acted like I was crazy, and told me they paid so much because it had the technical support of the manufacturer. I cant seem to see how they can justify such a purchase while we are in a slow season, and people are being let go. /rant.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240396",
"author": "emilio",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T20:05:55",
"content": "very cool layout, it actually looks usable instead of the usual demo-hot-but-otherwise-useless multitouch setups.but, i gotta gripe about one thing, of course: i want to see people use more flat panels and fewer projectors. projectors are easy to interface with, but they output tons of heat and just eat up space and power (and expensive projector bulbs). i would never consider using a projector-based multitouch setup at work or home.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240399",
"author": "Jay",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T20:06:19",
"content": "I love it! :D",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240401",
"author": "pmichaelh",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T20:07:57",
"content": "Guess I’m missing something here. Why does it need a horizontal surface? Maybe, so we could virtually lose a document by covering it with other papers? Or is there a requirement to have something to spill coffee on?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240461",
"author": "grovenstien",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T20:31:40",
"content": "If you like this and want to know more about homebrew Multitouch technologies check out nuigroup.com",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240582",
"author": "Luke",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T21:01:41",
"content": "I’m so over FITR.It requires you to have a gigantic box behind the screen and the surfaces generally suck (as in, they have to be foamy or fogged or specially treated). Why am I not seeing any homebrew coupled capacitance or SAW devices? Coupled capacitance you can even buy controllers for from digikey.I guess this is a little interesting because of the bend, but that’s about all it has it it’s favor. Perhaps some real innovation or something new and I’d be a little more interested",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240591",
"author": "HogieWan",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T21:04:41",
"content": "@pmichaelh – it is very difficult to do actual work for a long period of time touching a vertical surface, but it is much easier to see/read on that vertical",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240592",
"author": "Derek",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T21:04:41",
"content": "I want to see a multi touch done on glass/ see through. All Iron man Style! All and all Extremely cool, Wish you could expand like on the iphones.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240642",
"author": "Stubaw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T21:25:27",
"content": "This was up on Engadget last week:http://www.engadget.com/2010/11/27/benddesk-the-curved-multitouch-workspace-of-the-future-video/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240809",
"author": "tulcod",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T21:52:17",
"content": "@Stubaw: yeah, I agree this is kinda old news. Don’t most of us follow slashdot anyway? Also, it has been noted several times that while this setup looks very geeky and scifiish, it’s not very practical. Good build, bad design.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241301",
"author": "vonskippy",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T23:05:10",
"content": "Wait, I thought we’d all abandon our desktop computers and use tablets in the future.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241605",
"author": "heatgap",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:22:30",
"content": "@xeracy I understand your rant completely. So many companies these days never even try to explore options that might save them money in turn saving peoples jobs. Asshats will be asshats.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241621",
"author": "CG",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T00:26:47",
"content": "Battleship… ‘nuf said.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242326",
"author": "ENKI-][",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T03:17:22",
"content": "In before ‘starfire’:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKJNxgZyVo0",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "242907",
"author": "Azur",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T05:44:41",
"content": "if it was at my hands, and combined with a tech such “microsoft surface” it was going to have a great future…-it may have a desktop computer’s capabilities using a virtual keyboard and trackpad, and a “show/hide” tap button for them.-awesome music-making capabilites also… some v/keyboard, tuners, EQs, etc…it would be great as an open-source device…so, i’m not one of these who ask for one of them as a capprice, but still… i want one!!!i’d like to be aware of the updates this device gets, and so, see it grow as a new must-have home PC…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "243625",
"author": "templar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T08:15:47",
"content": "Build touch sense into the projectors so I can keep clicking the projected screen on the wall (lol).",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246275",
"author": "Dante",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T16:32:03",
"content": "Nice Job!! I think that it isn’t so difficult to realize",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "248565",
"author": "Everett",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T02:56:23",
"content": "@Derek,Just so I understand, you want to project onto a transparent surface? One that allows light to travel through it?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "251133",
"author": "Pikoro",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T13:48:15",
"content": "@azurlike this?:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZBU5Z1Aa5gSorry, no sound on that one.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "275081",
"author": "Josh Dunbar",
"timestamp": "2010-12-08T18:00:09",
"content": "projectors & frosty screens are fast becoming out of date.Multitouch flexible OLED please?curved surface could make for excellent VST esque things… knobs on the vertical, piano on the flat? … tactile feedback on the piano bit? now that would be cool.unfortunately there isnt enough money in the industry for that to be commercially viable…i guess you’d need something that everyone could find useful. any suggestions? didn’t think so.Josh",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "281650",
"author": "Azur",
"timestamp": "2010-12-10T02:18:27",
"content": "@Pikorowell that’s not the idea i got, but it gets close.i meant some band-like music editing, where you need to have some bunch of samples at hand, you know, real time editing and stuff.do you know Adobe Audition? multitouch capabilities could be added to it to run free of single windowed single pointer mouse limitations.do you know that kind of papersheet-speaker-thing? is it multi-sound-you know… thing? the idea could be studied…am i too romantic?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,326.099916
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/03/power-all-over-your-body/
|
Power All Over Your Body
|
Joseph Thibodeau
|
[
"chemistry hacks",
"green hacks",
"Wearable Hacks"
] |
[
"energy",
"mechanical",
"piezo",
"research"
] |
We know that you can transform the mechanical motions of your body into electrical energy, like when you turn the crank or shake a mechanically-powered flashlight. These types of mechanical motions are quite large compared to many of the day-to-day (and minute-to-minute) actions you perform–for example walking, breathing, and thumb wrestling.
What if we could harvest energy from these tiny movements? Researchers at the Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology are
seeking the answer
to this question with piezoelectric
barium titanate
. The electrical output of their devices is very small (in the nanoAmps) but over a long period and over many repetitions it would be possible to run a small electric device–even a biologically-embedded one. An alternative to
blood power
?
There is clearly a lot of potential in this technology, and we’ll be interested to see if and when we can start messing around with this stuff. Heck, it’s already been used to power a small LED and you all know just how much everyone would jump at the chance to
cover themselves in self-powered LEDs…
| 19
| 19
|
[
{
"comment_id": "239777",
"author": "Drake",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T16:46:47",
"content": "What if the device was implanted near an artery? Couldn’t it be powered by the pulse then? No need to move and constant power.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "239813",
"author": "Andrew",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T16:55:05",
"content": "did anybody read the article over at gizmodo about similar generator tech?http://gizmodo.com/5704517/this-generator-the-size-of-a-pencil-tip-shakes-up-big-power",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "239935",
"author": "ReKlipz",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T17:21:00",
"content": "NanoAmps… tells me nothing. How bout some Watts?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "239955",
"author": "modernninja",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T17:28:04",
"content": "You put the one end in your mouth and the other end up your….no wait, I think I got that backwards…",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240005",
"author": "moony",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T17:50:57",
"content": "The ultimate weight loss device? Generating power from inside the body has to take the energy from somewhere.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240010",
"author": "Drake",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T17:52:34",
"content": "No no it was.This one goes in your ear, this one goes in your mouth, and this one goes in your butt.*Low Beep*Uh Hold on. *jumbles around* This one goes in your mouth, …",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240014",
"author": "BiOzZ",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T17:53:04",
"content": "well the energy has to come from some ware … even if its just a small super sensitive motor its still draining your bodies energy more than normal right?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240040",
"author": "Chad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T18:00:15",
"content": "http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/40477729/ns/technology_and_science-innovation/?gt1=43001",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240170",
"author": "Edward",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T18:44:54",
"content": "“What if we could harvest energy from these tiny movements?”You mean like a self winding watch?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240185",
"author": "Necromant",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T18:55:02",
"content": "@Drake> What if the device was implanted near an artery? Couldn’t it be powered by the pulse then? No need to move and constant power.More load on the heart. And that’s not a good thing. As a guy who often suffers from low blood pressure I can tell that it’s definetely not a good idea.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240267",
"author": "Greg",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T19:28:24",
"content": "Of course there is no such thing as free power, the power does come from somewhere. Way before I risk some experimental implant I will just wear something in my shoe that converts steps into energy. I feel like there is more than “nano amps” involved in walking.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240269",
"author": "Spork",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T19:29:06",
"content": "This is ridiculous, what makes anyone think there is such thing as free energy? Like BiOzZ said, you’re just making the body work harder to provide the tiny bit of extra energy for the device.That said, converting these types of energy into electricity has got to be horribly inefficient.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240285",
"author": "Whoever",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T19:37:50",
"content": "“I feel like there is more than “nano amps” involved in walking.”Not to mention actual weight loss and muscle growth. :-)",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240300",
"author": "Jake",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T19:40:20",
"content": "I wrote a post about how these are intended for implants, but it appears that HaD has blocked me! LOL!!!",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240442",
"author": "LastBoyScout",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T20:20:35",
"content": "Im sure that at somepoint we will see a bio-suit that incorporates the ability mentioned in the article along with solar cells mounted on the skin of the suit. Shoot, I bet they could even go so far as to turn the suit into a “solar still” of sorts and reclaim the sweat produced by the body and store it in bladders around the suit that would help to cool off the body as well as give you a somewhat replenishable water supply.throw in some bioluminescence organic material to design the suit out of and you might have suit of the future.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240684",
"author": "Metalwolf",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T21:30:33",
"content": "after this you could embed a layer of IR emitters under your skin. The IR cameras may see you, but they will never ID you.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "245703",
"author": "Whatnot",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T14:08:10",
"content": "hell*",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "246333",
"author": "thelackey3326",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T16:55:19",
"content": "“There is clearly a lot of potential in this technology…”I see what you did there. Surprised nobody else made mention of it.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "258918",
"author": "Amir",
"timestamp": "2010-12-06T18:19:09",
"content": "Am I the only one who immediately thought of the Seiko Kinetic watches?http://www.seikowatches.com/technology/kinetic/",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,325.963687
|
||
https://hackaday.com/2010/12/03/next-level-robotic-hijinx/
|
Next-Level Robotic Hijinx
|
Joseph Thibodeau
|
[
"Robots Hacks"
] |
[
"rov",
"WheelChair"
] |
Oberon
is a wheeled remotely operated vehicle that [LucidScience] built based on an electric wheelchair. The detailed and helpful build log is valuable enough even before considering the vast potential of Oberon’s intended use: strutting around town, scaring the neighbours.
We’ve seen other ROVs before, of course, but none with the same kind of
War of the Worlds
“real-life invasion” kitch.
Running down hapless pedestrians
or
raining hell
upon your enemies
are great and all, but once you’ve destroyed the surrounding population you’re out of laughs. Not so with Oberon, with which you can convince Mr. Nutcase down the road to go on wild quests for the glory of the new robot empire. The fun doesn’t stop there–enjoy the Hubbard side of life by starting a cult to worship the great Oberon and enjoy decades of financial payoff and moral depravity…all from the comfort of your own living room!
It would be wicked rad if we could move forward with this idea by combining the abilities of specialized ROVs like
this camera-bot
and
this termite-killer-bot
. Face it, who
wouldn’t
want a smooth-talking camera-snapping chemical-spraying avatar for christmas?
| 10
| 10
|
[
{
"comment_id": "239732",
"author": "spiritplumber",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T16:22:00",
"content": "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9m6H5se6-nEAll worthy goals, but how about a grocery run?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "239993",
"author": "What?",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T17:46:07",
"content": "That is easily the worst summary I’ve ever read on Hackaday and that is saying something. I work with ROVs and I have no idea what this robot is supposed to be good for.How about less ADHD embellishment and more hard data like features?",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240029",
"author": "RadBrad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T17:56:55",
"content": "Hey thanks for posting one of my bots! Oberon was a prototype made many years ago and my newer project “The Sentinel” is much more advanced, having autonomous operation, object recognition, GPS, self docking, and the ability to remember faces and parts of conversations had with people.I hope to complete The Sentinel in the next few years. It is a big project and a big bot (500 pounds)! I have 120 acres for it to roam, and it will double as a security guard and bear deterrent when I am away.Cheers!Brad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240377",
"author": "r_d",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T19:56:32",
"content": "@What:Perhaps they want to encourage people to _actually read the article_",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240496",
"author": "Anonymous",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T20:39:20",
"content": "@r_d:If they wanted people to actually read the article they wouldn’t go into such detail so often; many times I didn’t even need to click the link to find out what went into a project. Also, this summary essentially says this: “It’s an ROV with a build log.” Followed by two unnecessary paragraphs of fluff.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "240765",
"author": "macw",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T21:41:37",
"content": "It’s an ROV — there probably isn’t a whole lot more to say about it. As the creator notes, his newer robot is much more advanced, and I’d guess that Oberon is basically just a custom-built radio-controlled car.That’s definitely a Lego figure’s head and helmet on top, by the way :P",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241177",
"author": "RadBrad",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T22:27:01",
"content": "Yes, the idea was to have an audio video link so that people could interact with the robot. I used a voice changer to alter my voice, and can navigate Oberon up to a mile away from the base station under video control.Being almost as tall as a person and having a 12 hour run time made for some fun urban exploration.Many people actually believed the robot was self aware, and having an articulated head with the LED scanner behind the helmet lens made the illusion even more realistic.The other robot on my site is similar, but made with a steel body and night vision for security tasks.Brad",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "241279",
"author": "GRabo",
"timestamp": "2010-12-03T22:58:03",
"content": "Should make it an enemy on Dr Who.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "245947",
"author": "Max",
"timestamp": "2010-12-04T15:06:18",
"content": "Excellent! Now all we need is a company operating these in various cities in the world, accessible via web, and we’ve got instant armchair tourism! All that needs to be done is making sure they are about human-level tall, street-legal, stop if connection is lost, and “driver”‘s ID is logged at all times. But be warned, I hereby call dibs (http://www.xkcd.com/827) on the idea…! :)))",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
},
{
"comment_id": "252189",
"author": "Ben Wright",
"timestamp": "2010-12-05T18:34:10",
"content": "My only criticism is the use of an aircraft radio for a RC car. I’m sure it doesn’t cause a lot of problems but when robot combat starting taking off (2000) or so, aircraft band radios were banned from competion. Also in CA I would see somone stealing the batteriers out of it wandering alone by itself. I work at a place where we rent out traffic control equipment and deep cycle batteries are the first thing to get stolen. The overall design isn’t bad.",
"parent_id": null,
"depth": 1,
"replies": []
}
] | 1,760,377,326.144747
|
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