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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>As an extension from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/264/when-to-use-1-75mm-vs-3mm-filament">this</a> question, is there any reason that you would not be able to use 1.75 mm filament i... | <ol>
<li><p>It may work for a short time but you're going to fill the melt chamber quickly and possibly overflow to a point where the filament isn't constrained causing a messy jam. All the molten plastic will likely flow backwards to a point where the diameter isn't 3mm any longer (probably next to your drive gear) b... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I've been printing for a week now on my new printer and have been getting great results, including great adhesion. However, most of my prints have had a fairly small footprint.</p>
<p>Now, I'm stepping up the typ... | <p>There are several things you could try without spending much but even PLA will warp on an unheated bed. I had a Legacy Kossel that I switched to an acrylic bed and had many issues with warping and prints pulling off the bed. </p>
<p>Some cheap things to try would be...</p>
<ol>
<li>Adding a brim to the print.</l... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>With <a href="/questions/tagged/fdm" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'fdm'" rel="tag">fdm</a> printers, the 3D object that should be printed can be positioned anywhere in the build volume. Bu... | <p>There are several things you could try without spending much but even PLA will warp on an unheated bed. I had a Legacy Kossel that I switched to an acrylic bed and had many issues with warping and prints pulling off the bed. </p>
<p>Some cheap things to try would be...</p>
<ol>
<li>Adding a brim to the print.</l... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>There must be a trick to doing a good job of applying Kapton tape on a printer bed plate…</p>
<p>We built a Bukobot and even with a great deal of care ended up with bubbles under the tape and occasional overlaps.... | <p>There are several things you could try without spending much but even PLA will warp on an unheated bed. I had a Legacy Kossel that I switched to an acrylic bed and had many issues with warping and prints pulling off the bed. </p>
<p>Some cheap things to try would be...</p>
<ol>
<li>Adding a brim to the print.</l... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>From what I understand, when you hook up the <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI">Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w</a> to the wall outlet, you have to be <strong>very careful</strong... | <p>It is okay to just use bare wires in the type of screw connector found on your power supply. They're designed for it; they have a little plate under the screw that prevents the wires from being frayed by the screw.</p>
<p>If you want neater wire termination, you should use one of the spade type ones. Pick the small... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p><a href="http://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/station/research/experiments/1115.html">This article</a> states that 3D printing has been accomplished in outer space, on the International Space Station.</p>
<p>I'm cur... | <p>Most likely, the 3D-printers used on ISS does not incorporate some fundamental difference that allow them to print in zero gravity.</p>
<p>Some people over at <a href="http://3dprint.com/62797/3d-printing-upside-down/" rel="noreferrer">3Dprint.com</a> raised a very similar question, and figured that when turning th... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>Are there any techniques for getting a smooth finish for parts printed with co-polyester (PET) filaments? More specifically, I am looking for an alternative that does not roughen the look of the part - such as usi... | <p>Ethyl acetate (sold as a MEK substitute) is supposed to work for vapor smoothing PET. It doesn't seem very toxic (it's used to decaffinate cofee and tea, and as a nail polish remover), but you might want to look more into it. There's a post on Printed Solid's blog where he vapor smoothed colorFabb XT and MadeSolid... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>When designing parts that should either fit with external objects or other printed parts, what measures can one take to ensure that the dimensions of the final print are accurate and fit the other object?</p>
<p>... | <p>I think the best way to go about this would be to calibrate your printer and slicer as best you can. One of my pet peeves is when people upload STLs that have been adjusted to fit their printer/material. There are many suppliers of material that vary in quality as well as many materials and different printers that... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I upgraded to a dual Mk9 extruder, and quickly discovered how critical it is to get the ends of both nozzles exactly level with each other -- that is, equally distant from the build plate at all times. Otherwise t... | <ol>
<li>Make sure that the <strong>bed is level</strong>. As the saying goes, a level bed is next to godliness or something like that. Pay extra attention to the direction the nozzles are offset by (if one nozzle is offset on the X-axis, pay extra attention to the bed leveling along the X-axis). <a href="http://wiki.s... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I just received this printer and while it seems to talk to Makerbot Desktop software I'm not sure if I should be trying to update the firmware.</p>
<p>The printer comes with firmware v7.2 and while Makerbot Deskt... | <p>The Monoprice Architect is is a bare-bones FlashForge Creator that has been re-badged for Monoprice. The Creator line is a very popular set of printers, so there is lots of good advice out there. The FlashForge Google Group is a good community to join: <a href="https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/flashforge" rel... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>When I use Cura with the Pronterface UI it sometime just stops printing.</p>
<p>When it stops the printer just stops, the UI looks like it's still printing but nothing is moving in the printer, also, trying to co... | <p>The Monoprice Architect is is a bare-bones FlashForge Creator that has been re-badged for Monoprice. The Creator line is a very popular set of printers, so there is lots of good advice out there. The FlashForge Google Group is a good community to join: <a href="https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/flashforge" rel... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I'm in the process of building a 3D printer and have all the stepper motors wired up and the controller connected to the computer running pronterface.</p>
<p>I can move each axis and also send g-code to the print... | <blockquote>
<p>G92 X0 Y0 Z0</p>
</blockquote>
<p>tells the printer that the current position is (0,0,0).</p>
|
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I found a story about someone <a href="http://www.fablabamersfoort.nl/en/node/534">3D-printing equipment for their Lego minifig</a>, using an Ultimaker. (Article is in Dutch, but accompanied by photographs).</p>
... | <p>It's really more about calibration than resolution -- a poorly calibrated printer will have dimension errors that prevent mating with true LEGO bricks or other printed bricks. </p>
<p>Also, "resolution" is an incredibly loaded term for 3d printers, because it can mean a lot of different things. But we don't need to... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I was just shopping for filament, and saw some glowing claims about PETG being as easy to work with as PLA, but as strong as ABS, and less brittle. Anyone know if that's actually true, or what the tradeoffs are?</... | <p>PETG is great stuff to work with. It is stronger than ABS also. It prints slower than ABS and PLA. The formulas vary quite a bit from vendor to vendor. I have used 3 brands, and each of their properties vary. </p>
<p>From my experience you do have to be careful with moisture. You'll be able to tell you have moistur... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereolithography">Stereolithography</a> produces parts by projecting ultraviolet light on the top of a vat of liquid photopolymer, causing it to harden. <a href="https://en... | <p>It's important to understand what specifically is being compared. <strong>CLIP is much faster than bottom-up technologies that require a peel step between every layer.</strong> For example, the Form1 galvo SLA printer tilts the resin vat to separate the transparent bottom from the print. That is, by far, the slowest... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>In Cura, I can edit my .ini profile settings as needed, for example, when I change filament or models. It's annoying to have to edit the profile on another computer and update it on my Pi just to change the infill... | <p>As far as I know, this is currently not possible.</p>
|
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p><a href="https://e3d-online.com/blogs/news/are-abrasives-killing-your-nozzle" rel="nofollow noreferrer">E3D-Online</a> and <a href="http://makezine.com/2015/09/11/carbon-fiber-filament-ruins-nozzles/" rel="nofollo... | <p>I believe the little experiment made by E3D - the same link you provide - answers your question very well. Several points about wear can be found in this article. After printing only 250 grams of ColorFabb XT-CF20 (carbon fiber filament):</p>
<ul>
<li>The nozzle diameter had increased markedly</li>
<li>The inner wa... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I need to do some post processing of my 3D-printed models that includes adding some holes. For each of PLA, ABS, PETG and other 3D-printing materials:</p>
<p>In what ways is drilling a hole in a model made from t... | <p>I wouldn't recommend drilling a hole in a 3D printed part in a traditional sense like with wood. Instead, I would merely ream a 3D printed part.</p>
<p>I've done this quite a bit where I'll print my holes at a slightly smaller than nominal size and use a standard carbide drill to ream the hole.</p>
<p>Things to co... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>On one of the nozzles on my printer, the filament comes out at a 45 degree angle. It seems that this causes problems with adhesion to the bed and overall quality.</p>
<ul>
<li>What caused this problem? </li>
<li... | <p>If you're extruding into the air, it's actually quite normal for the filament to come out in seemingly random directions. This shouldn't cause problems because the filament should always be getting squished onto the bed/layer underneath (or during bridging, getting stretched). The way the filament comes out in free ... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I"m considering making my own filament, with a device like the one at <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:380987" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:380987</a>. Partly because it's an... | <p>You can basically use any machine that pulverizes your pellets into small pieces.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/how-make-your-own-filament-recycling-old-3d-prints-part-1" rel="noreferrer"><strong>One guy on 3dhubs, explained it in details.</strong></a></p>
<p>My conclusion is that you can recy... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>When installing and using a new hotend for the first time, which steps of action should be taken before. This will probably be more applicable to chinese clones than to authentic products (is the statement true?):... | <p>So far, these are my experiences to make a new hotend work properly.</p>
<ul>
<li>Read the instructions. The ones of the 'original' if it is a clone.</li>
<li>Check the parts. Is everything included you need?</li>
<li>and check the design, if it is a clone. It might not be the same as the one they're trying to copy... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>What are the specifications of the three wires inside a PC cable that is used to connect the switching power supply to a US AC outlet.</p>
<p>The positive, negative and ground appear to be the same gauge stranded... | <p><em>Very</em> basically speaking, electricity works like this:</p>
<ol>
<li>There's some source that delivers a certain <strong>voltage</strong>.</li>
<li>You have a device that operates at a certain voltage. <strong>The device voltage and supply voltage should always match.</strong> No, don't put that 120V US devi... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>If I need to test out some of the components of a RAMPS 1.4 based 3D Printer, can I only plug some of them into the board (not all of them) and test them out?</p>
<p>I'd like to test out the NEMA 17 motors withou... | <p>If by components you mean motors, fans, or heated bed, then yes. This is even suggested in the <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Final_Setup" rel="noreferrer">Final Setup</a> instructions on the RAMPS wiki.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>If you think you may have mistakes (in your setup) you can install only one ste... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>This is in with <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/394/when-building-a-ramps-1-4-based-printer-can-i-safely-plugin-just-some-of-the-co">my other question about components</a> and the <a href="... | <p>To measure amps (current), the meter has to be wired in series with the item to be measured (for this reason, ammeters are designed to have very low resistance). </p>
<p>This has the down-side that you have to disconnect the component to put the meter in line with it. That makes it hard to do the "check a component... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>There is a little circuit board, or breadboard or something <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Electronics_and_wiring#Wiring" rel="nofollow noreferrer">in the diagram of the wiring for the i3</a>.</p>... | <p>In the diagram, they do show the wires connecting together, which is right. You can accomplish that just about any way you like, so long as you pair up the wires correctly from one motor to the other.</p>
<p>I'm assuming both "Z" motors are the same type and have the same color-coding for their wires. If not, you'l... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I'm thinking about buliding my own 3D printer from scratch. </p>
<p>Is it better to buy a starter DIY kit and try to build your printer around it, or to order separate parts for printer, and then to combine a pri... | <p>From a general point of view, there are a few things to consider.</p>
<p><strong>If you buy a kit</strong>:</p>
<p>Pros:</p>
<ul>
<li>You get some insurance that <em>you have all the parts that you need</em> to get a functional printer - all the electronics, structure, bolts, nuts, screws, washers, wires and so o... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>How do I smooth 3D printed objects? What is the best / common method to do this?</p>
| <p>From a general point of view, there are a few things to consider.</p>
<p><strong>If you buy a kit</strong>:</p>
<p>Pros:</p>
<ul>
<li>You get some insurance that <em>you have all the parts that you need</em> to get a functional printer - all the electronics, structure, bolts, nuts, screws, washers, wires and so o... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I have seen lots of printers that print chocolate using a syringe with molten chocolate. But, even cooler, would it be possible to print chocolate using some kind of feed system for <strong>continuous</strong> cho... | <p>Update: I found a nice article about chocolate printing: <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/chocolate-3d-printer-all-you-need-to-know/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://all3dp.com/2/chocolate-3d-printer-all-you-need-to-know/</a></p>
<hr>
<p>You are searching for chocolate extruder. I did not find one, which would fulf... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I recently found out carbon fiber and glow in the dark PLA can damage the printer nozzle, now I'm suspicious of all the "exotic" filaments.</p>
<p>So, does wood filament cause damage to the nozzle? (under normal ... | <p>If you haven't been to their site before, you should check out the forums on 3DHubs. There's a lot of how-to's. A quick Google search yields <a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/accelerated-nozzle-wear" rel="noreferrer">this</a> link to a similar question.</p>
<p>The key thing to note is that in all technica... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>In general 3D printers are compact and smaller than RP machines. That's ok. But, what's the difference? 3D printers can be used as RP machine too.</p>
| <p>All rapid prototyping means is automatically producing a physical part from a cad model. 3D printing is a way to achieve rapid prototyping. There are 2 main methods of rapid prototyping: additive, and subtractive.</p>
<p>A 3D printer is additive- you add materials to an object layer by layer.</p>
<p>Usually, when ... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I'd like to customize and modify some parts on Thingiverse, beyond just simple scaling for 3D printing.</p>
<p>I've been looking for some tools that convert the STL files into something that is easily edited, but... | <p>If you want to do basic edits to an STL, a program such as <a href="http://www.meshmixer.com/" rel="noreferrer">MeshMixer</a> might be right for your. It offers the ability to combine and subtract models, add custom supports, and similar, in a fairly straight forward manner.</p>
<p>An alternative that allows your t... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I have a Robo 3D. However A while ago, the print bed was fractured, and now it has a long crack cutting it in half. The bed still works because it is held together, by the screws holding the bed to the tracks. So ... | <p>A little chip is fine, but I wouldn't print with that big of a crack. <strong>However</strong>, that doesn't mean you need to spend $80 on a new sheet of glass.</p>
<p>Option #1- If you want borosilicate glass, you can get a sheet from either McMaster (about $40+shipping for a 10"x10" piece, less for smaller) or fr... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I'm using Cura as my slicing/printing software and I just started using the BuildTak printing surface.</p>
<p>The BuildTak is damaged by pushing a hot nozzle into it and my printer's (Robo3D R1+) autoleveling fea... | <p>In Cura (and Slic3r), you can 100% customize what the printer does before printing your actual model through custom <strong>start/end g-code</strong>.</p>
<p>If you navigate to the <code>Start/End-GCode tab in Cura</code>, then select <code>start.gcode</code>, you can see what operations are run before each print b... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I am wondering how people that use standalone 3D printers (printers that have the ability to print autonomously from SD Card) feed in filament, prime the printhead and/or change filaments without a laptop ?</p>
<... | <p>My printer (IdeaWerk 150) is very basic and doesn't have any options for this from the screen.</p>
<p>I wrote a really simple GCODE file that brings the nozzle up to temperature, then runs the extruder for a few seconds, then waits, then extrudes for a bit again. I think it does this 3 or 4 times then stops. I can ... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I'm thinking of another extruder on my printer, and I'm curious about this one....</p>
<p>Is it necessary to have both hot ends on same height? Why yes / why not? (if there is not)</p>
| <p>I have a dual extruder Replicator 1 and having the nozzles at the same height is a must and albeit a bit of a struggle otherwise. At one point, I had to disassemble my extruder head and the nozzles didn't line up quite right. There after, printing with the lower one obviously didn't have any troubles, however, print... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I have searched the internet and found various 3D printers with different advantages and materials which they can print - some even multi color. </p>
<p>However, I cannot seem to find a printer that can print mu... | <p>Yes and no.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>for instance simultanious printing of plas plastic and lets say metal. Is such a printer available or in development ?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Practically speaking, no. Metal printing requires significantly higher temperatures than plastic, and the two processes are so incompatible ... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>Is there a good method or tool to level the bed of 3D printers? I find myself making small adjustments a lot and it's mostly just trial-and-error. A normal bubble level is of limited help and trying to figure out ... | <p>The easiest way I know of (unless your printer has a Z-probe and automatic leveling), is to bring the nozzle(s) down fairly close to the bed (maybe 1/4" or so), and then move it around while watching for anyplace that doesn't look even. Adjust the bed until it seems even. You can just eyeball it, or use a ruler or o... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>Occasionally, while printing, my <em>y</em> axis will slip and the layer will, from that point forward, be shifted, ruining the print.</p>
<p>What might be the causes of an axis slipping? I have tried cooling the... | <p>The current to your motor driver could be set either too high or too low. If it's set too low then the torque might not be sufficient and the motor will skip steps. If it's set too high then the driver might overheat and occasionally shut down to protect itself.</p>
<p>Another option is that the printing speeds (or... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>Glass is always level, easy to clean, easy to work with.</p>
<p>Aluminium allows for the addition of automatic bed leveling with an inductive sensor and distributes heat a little more evenly.</p>
<p>When printin... | <p>I believe printing directly on aluminium is unwise, simply because it will expand when heated, typically giving the bed a concave or convex shape. Glass, on the other hand, does not (at least not significantly).</p>
<p>As pointed out in the comments below, the heat expansion of aluminium could potentially be mitiga... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I currently print with a .4mm nozzle on my extruder, and my prints seem to come out fairly accurate; would I see much of a difference if I went to a .3mm?</p>
<p>What are the pros and cons of larger and smaller n... | <p>1) Smaller nozzle advantage: sharper "corners" (higher X and Y resolution)</p>
<p>2) Larger nozzle advantage: faster 3d printing (because you can print the shell faster as each perimeter can be thicker so you'll need less perimeters to be printed to get the same shell thickness. Same true for infill).</p>
<p>3) Sm... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p><strong>Given the emissions that 3d printing gives off (ABS = styrene and other chemicals, PLA give some off, etc), what options are there to filter the air in the enclosure other than venting the air out of a win... | <p>My residential materials expert referred me to these links (<a href="http://www.bofaamericas.com/3D-printing-fume-extraction.asp" rel="noreferrer">3D Printing Fume Extraction Solutions</a>, and <a href="http://www.3dprintfilemarket.com/140629194058.html" rel="noreferrer">ABS 3d Printer Nanoparticle and Chemical Exha... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>Some electronics come as a single PCB. They have CPU and everything on just one board.</p>
<p>Other electronics are a shield for an Arduino. So these are always two boards. The Arduino and the other PCB.</p>
<p>... | <p>Many 3d printer motherboards are based on Arduino/Atmega microcontroller and just add some stepper motor drivers, MOSFETs and such in a single board. That explains why you use the Arduino IDE to update or modify their firmware.</p>
<p>Now why you would want to use an Arduino + an Arduino shield board like RAMPS? We... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>My printer has an auto-leveling feature that works by touching the build plate with the tip of the nozzle.</p>
<p>I started using a BuildTak surface and BuildTak is damaged when you push a hot nozzle into it.</p>... | <p>An alternative solution to using a hard delay with the <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell">G4 dwell command</a>, is to increase the time that the temperature set with <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait">M109</a> has to be held before it continues with the nex... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I just added a fan to my printer because very small layers seem to come out very badly. For example, the 5mm PLA cube that's the top level of the test shape shown below. Watching closely, I can see that the newly-... | <h2>Layer Times</h2>
<p>See my answer to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/516/what-parameters-affect-cylinder-regularity">this question</a> and pay particular attention to my suggestion about a minimum layer print time. I'm not sure if all slicing engines provide this option, but I know MakerWar... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>Most electronics use micro-controllers like an AVR, but I'm seeing ARM chips in new electronics. ARM chips are said to be more powerful, but in what areas related to 3D printing could this help? What are the feat... | <p>Generally, AVR is in fact less powerful than many ARM cores used today. Most printers with AVRs don't have floating-point coprocessors, although a lot of the step and movement control can be done in integer-only math (except for G2/G3). Marlin can interrupt for step handling <a href="http://softsolder.com/2013/06/04... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I want to upload some of my works to <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/">Thingiverse</a> without making my real name public (displaying it on the profile page).</p>
<p>I think it is OK to register my name to th... | <p>To change your displayed name (as opposed to username) in Thingiverse:</p>
<ol>
<li>Go to your profile page</li>
<li>Click "Edit Profile" on the info column on the left</li>
<li>At the top, next to "Thingiverse Settings" is another link/tab called "Makerbot Settings". Click that.</li>
<li>Change the First Name and ... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>everyone.</p>
<p>I'm a relative newcomer to 3D printing, so I don't know what constitutes an unacceptably bad spool of filament.</p>
<p>About 1/6 of the way into a roll of PETG (and maybe 4 hours into a 6-hour p... | <p>Filament should come off of the roll without overlapping itself. That being said depending on what you paid for it would determine if you should complain. Normally you get what you pay for. If you paid \$10 for it, I would think that is why it was so cheap, but if you paid >\$25 it should be nice stuff.</p>
|
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p><strong>I was wondering if this printer(daVinci 1.0) had the ability to print very small objects, like insects, coins, or small nuts. (About the size of 1 -2 cubic centimeters)</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://us... | <p>1) If we're talking about FFF/FDM printers:</p>
<p>Accuracy of the electronics and motors allows it, yes.
But how FDM printers work it might be very hard to lay down layers of molten plastic so small as to preserve little details in the X and Y axis, not much of a problem doing 20 micron layer height though (Z reso... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>I am considering buying a 3D printer for work (scientific research). On paper, the Makerbot 5th generation seems to be the best option, because the price is right for my budget, and also because I'm generally pret... | <p>Makerbot claims the problems are fixed. I have heard from a number of resellers that the problems are fixed. Unfortunately, both of those are somewhat biased sources. It's surprisingly hard to get good info on the subject -- very few credible people are talking about recent experiences with the product line. </p>
<... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>One way to give PLA prints a smooth finish is treatment with chloroform vapours (or other solvents, as mentioned in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/36/674">this</a> answer). This method is even fea... | <p><a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/25ej7d/does_anyone_have_experience_with_pla_thf_vapor/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This Reddit post</a> seems to have some good trial and error dialog.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:73120" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This Thingiverse post</a>, al... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>On a Cartesian printer movements are really simple. If we assume the printer has 100 steps/mm on each axis, then a move of 10mm on a axis is just 1000 Steps on that axis.</p>
<p>Movements that are not aligned wit... | <p>There are two main special steps to the technique used by most open-source 3d printer controllers:</p>
<ol>
<li>Divide each linear gcode segment into lots of very small subsegments ("Segmentation")</li>
<li>Use some basic trigonometry or the pythagorean theorem to tie extruder position to carriage height for each o... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>Is there a definitive scalable 3D printer? </p>
<p>I've seen examples of Chinese companies printing entire houses, and I'm curious as to printers / filaments that are intended (or at least able) be scaled up for ... | <p>If I understand your question correctly, it sounds like you're looking somewhere within the <a href="http://reprap.org/" rel="noreferrer">RepRap</a> realm. The RepRap community is mostly responsible for the boom in consumer 3D printing in the past 10 years, and that's most likely because it's <strong>open source</st... |
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<p>Our library system just put a 3D printer in one of the branches. I have used SketchUp on the library computers for a number of years just to do artsy things. Suddenly, I have the opportunity to actually print some... | <p>Here is what I suggest you try. If you have a file that you can view/edit in blender I would export it as both STL and OBJ formats. Then take those files and upload them to Netfabb (<a href="https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/" rel="nofollow">https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/</a>) and get a "repaired" file. Have the... |
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<p>When you cut or break a PLA model (for example to remove support) it often leaves an ugly while mark where the removed piece was connected.</p>
<p>Sanding also tend to leave dull white scratches on the sanded sur... | <p>A quick blast from a heat gun will very slightly reflow the surface texture and eliminate white marks. </p>
<p>However, it's important to avoid over-heating the perimeter layers or you'll see them soften and sag into the infill. So wait for the heat gun to get fully hot and then use a short duration of high heat. L... |
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<p>Cura does not seem let the full print area to be used. My printer is a <a href="https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-mini" rel="noreferrer">Lulzbot Mini</a>. The design illustrated below can be found <a ... | <p>Cura is likely factoring in your skirt. Change the skirt lines to 0 and you might be able to print (<code>Expert</code> -> <code>Switch to full settings</code>, then click the options button next to "platform adhesion type."). Cura also seems to have an in-built build size offset of about 2 mm. I can't ... |
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<p>I'm having trouble getting my MendelMax 2's heatbed <em>not</em> to heat up when I want to print without it. I don't get how multiple sources of control relate to each other (same with extrusion temperatures, actu... | <p>3D printer get the temperature settings from g-code file. The firmware settings for min and max temperature are just safeguards.</p>
<p>You should verify instructions within the g-code file. If you are not familiar with g-code, take a look to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code" rel="noreferrer">wikipedia... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>In Cura, when you enable "Print support structure", is there a way to see what it will look like?</p>
| <p>Select the View Modes Button in the upper right hand corner, and select Layers.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/grPQi.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/grPQi.png" alt="Cura"></a></p>
|
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>We have a Makerbot Replicator 2X at our school. I have a class in the computer lab and one of our focuses is using the printer. Currently, it is not printing properly. We are using PLA at 210 degrees Celcius. T... | <p>Overall, it is unlikely that the problem is temp sensing accuracy. There are only a few things that will throw off the thermocouple's reading:</p>
<ul>
<li>Poor thermal coupling between the tip and the hot block, such as if the tip has partially pulled free of the brass thermowell crimp (this will make the hot bloc... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>I'm building my own 3D printer (custom design, made by me and cut using a water cutting machine) but I have always had problems with the hotend clogging.</p>
<p>I have had four hotends:</p>
<ul>
<li>a J-Head;</l... | <p>To make the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/670/which-hotend-does-not-clog-and-is-good-to-use-with-a-bowden-1-75-mm-setup#comment-874">suggestion of Martin Carney</a> a real answer and shift things away from comments:</p>
<p>Yes, moisture and dust can be a problem. Find elaborations on the m... |
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<p>I have seen some lasers attached to the RepRap platform for cutting but most seem to be cutting paper, balsa wood, or merely etching. If I were wanting to build a platform for cutting wood, similar to the wood fr... | <p>Please do not go down this road. First, not all lasers are equally absorbed by the material and the energy converted to heat to vaporize the material. The light not absorbed is reflected right back into your eyes. This is especially dangerous because it doesn't make you go blind instantly, fooling you into thinking ... |
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<p>Using an FDM printer and PLA or ABS, without adding support material. What modifications can I make to improve how steep an overhang my printer can print before it starts having problems?</p>
<p>The obvious first... | <p>The two most important things you can do are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Provide adequate cooling to solidify the plastic quickly</li>
<li>Minimize layer height</li>
</ul>
<p>Cooling is really obvious. You need the plastic to solidify before it has a chance to sag. PLA in particular has to shed a lot of heat before it is fully ... |
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<p>I would like to secure my hotend thermistor in a more reliable way (now it is just thermistor plugged in the hotend :D). I want to have a stainless steel tip for it to fix it inside hotend with a screw (The same a... | <p>The two most important things you can do are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Provide adequate cooling to solidify the plastic quickly</li>
<li>Minimize layer height</li>
</ul>
<p>Cooling is really obvious. You need the plastic to solidify before it has a chance to sag. PLA in particular has to shed a lot of heat before it is fully ... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>In a design that I need to prototype, I have a coaxial, rotational joint between 2 cylinders connected to another coaxial rotational joint between 2 cylinders by a hinge. I have attached the individual part files ... | <h3>Consider ball bearings</h3>
<p>Depending on the requirements for your joint, I would consider making a design that utilizes <em>ball bearings</em>. With ball bearings, your join will not wear down as quickly, and also move smoothly.</p>
<h3>Handling dimensional inaccuracy</h3>
<p>The topic of how to achieve dimensi... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>I had a friend request that I print out the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan as a gift for her PhD adviser. I went to NOAA and the site had a few files for the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan.</p>
<p>Files and types are l... | <p>In order to properly get an STL file out of a point cloud, you'll need some tool to help triangulate the points to create proper shell surfaces. The shell that is created in an STL is what the slicing engine will "slice".</p>
<p>I'm not as familiar with the full potential of MeshLab, but I would think this... |
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<p>I have recently bought a spool of eSun PETG. So far I really like the filament. My only complaint is, I get lumps of charred filament deposited on my object. The slicer I used is Craft Ware and I have played with ... | <p>Different brands and blends of PET filaments seem to do this to different degrees. Esun's PETG is definitely one that tends to glob onto the nozzle. Basically, the nozzle plows through the top surface of the filament and lifts up some plastic, much like the bow of a ship lifting up some water at high speeds. PET's v... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>I have a z-axis which follows schematically the same principle as the makerbot one's (threaded rod and two leading rods with linear ball bearings carrying a level). It is from an old experimental lab doing physics... | <p>There could be a few issues at play.</p>
<ol>
<li>The smooth rods are not parallel which is causing the bearings to bind the further you go up.</li>
<li>Part of the thread is damaged not allowing it to pass through the nut.</li>
<li>The threaded rod is bent significantly to where it either doesn't pass through the ... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>Some RepRap models use only a single motor for the Z axis, others use two.</p>
<p>For example, there is the <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/3drag" rel="noreferrer">3drag</a> that has only one motor and a smooth r... | <p>There are three main options here for Mendel style ZX gantries:</p>
<ul>
<li>One Z screw and motor, which is similar to a cantilevered design but somewhat more stable because of the opposite smooth rod</li>
<li>Two Z screws and two motors</li>
<li>Two Z screws and one motor, with belt synchronization of the two sid... |
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<p>What software is best for the basest of n00bs when it comes to 3D parts creation?</p>
<p>I have a heavy math background and know how to create explicit functions of volume, surface area, center of mass, etc. Idea... | <p>I don't have a heavy math background, but enjoy using such skills when applicable.</p>
<p>If you've not yet explored <a href="http://www.openscad.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OpenSCAD</a>, you may find that it meets your qualifications. It's more or less a scripting/descriptive language "compiler" that takes ord... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>I'm building a Kossel Mini, and I'm stuck on the extruder motor holder.</p>
<p>My Kossel came without instructions, I was given a set of instructions by a friend (the "Kossel Build Guide" by Blomker industries). ... | <p>Have a look at the image provided in this seller's part description. it probably says more than my words could (which would also only rely on images - your parts just looked like I saw them somewhere before). </p>
<p><a href="http://de.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-parts-right-hand-bowden-Extruder-kit-set-no-motor... |
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<p>I'm building a 3D printer and I've been looking around for materials suitable to make the frame.</p>
<p>I have occasional access to a laser cutter which I could use to manufacture a ply box-type (UltiMaker) enclo... | <p>Aluminum of almost every grade is very easy to cut with a hacksaw. I would suggest to mark clearly the cut line and to wrap masking tape at the edge of the cut. Consider to allow for about 2-3 millimeters (1/16") extra material for final finishing. Cut across the line, rotate the part ninety degrees and cut again. O... |
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<p>PLA is flammable, but a good case can protect the main board from dirt.</p>
<p>Is it worthwhile to protect a circuit board with a 3d printed case?</p>
| <p>It depends.</p>
<p>Protecting your electronics from being touched by random bits of conductive material which would short and fry them is always a good idea.</p>
<p>If it's something that will be visible, then a pleasant printed casing might go well. You might just as well use any other casing though, there's no r... |
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<h2>Backstory</h2>
<p>I've had issues in the past with my drive gear "eating" my filament. It seemed that the filament quit extruding for one reason or another and the drive gear would slowly eat away at the side of... | <p>For an easy test, try manually pulling the filament through the U-loop of guide tube. How hard is it to pull through? It should only take 1-2 lbs of tension at most. </p>
<p>Then do a "tug test" on the extruder. Start it loading and grab the filament by hand to try to stop it from extruding. The Replicator 1/2/2x e... |
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<p>As my first project, I'm trying to design a holder for glass vials, for a scientific application. The photo below shows the latest design iteration, and also shows the problem with it:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.s... | <p>Considering that you wish to print the clip in the vertical orientation but without supports, I would suggest that you create a suitable taper of the clip from the bottom. The taper would provide necessary support-free support but may reduce the amount of bottle access one has to remove it from the clips.</p>
<p>As... |
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<p>If you already have a 3D printer, would you say that you have saved money on buying the printer, buying models and then printing the models, compared to buying something alike in retail?</p>
<p>Would you say that... | <p>I would say that the general answer to your specific question is no. If you want to justify buying a printer because of all the things you could print instead of buying that is not going to be easy. </p>
<p>If however you are a DIYer and you have some CAD skills, or are willing to learn some, then consider the 3D p... |
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<p>I've been curious about the various UV/Laser printers in (or coming into) market that use liquid resin. I've seen the samples of the <a href="https://fslaser.com/Products/View/1" rel="noreferrer">Pegasus Touch</a>... | <p>Taken in order your questions:</p>
<p>Maintenance for a resin printer means keeping the vat or tray clean, using appropriate methods to remove the unused resin (or leaving it in the vat per manufacturer's directions). Cleaning the tray should be done also per manufacturer's spec, although each printer's user forum ... |
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<p>I obtained the following wire 22 Gauge Stranded Hookup Wire from Radio Shack:</p>
<pre><code>Type/Style: AWM/1007
Wire Gauge: 22 AWG
Insulation Thickness: AVE. 0.42 mm
Rated Voltage: 300V
Temperature Rating: 80°C... | <p>22awg wiring is good for a max of 7A in this usage case. Your power supply can provide 30A. So it is definitely not large enough wire gauge for good wiring practice -- in the event of a short, you want the PSU's over-current protection to kick in before the wiring overheats. That would mean 14ga between the PSU and ... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
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<p>I have done the calibration for the x, y, and z axis and everything works fine there. However when I went to do the calibration for extruder things got a little weird. The original number programmed on the board f... | <p>It is really strange that although you <em>increased</em> the steps per mm, the amount extruded was <em>less</em>. I can think of two possible explanations:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>You are extruding too quickly, at a rate at which the extruder can't keep up melting the filament fast enough, causing the filament to slip or ... |
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<p>First of all I'm working with a Folger Tech Prusa i3 kit, if that makes a difference. Also I believe the Arduino is a Mega 2560.</p>
<p>I know somewhere in the back of my head that electrically programmable ROM l... | <p>The EEPROM is <em>not</em> where the program itself is stored, what's relevant for your question is the flash. The flash in the ATmega2560 <a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/atmel-2549-8-bit-avr-microcontroller-atmega640-1280-1281-2560-2561_datasheet.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">is rated for 10,000 cycles</a> (i... |
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<p>E3D mentions on their <a href="http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly#Usage_Guidance" rel="nofollow noreferrer">own wiki</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Excessively long retractions will cause issues by dragg... | <p>Yes, you can increase retraction past E3D's max 2 mm recommendation to compensate for Bowden tube stretch and slop. The reason for the recommendation is that jams will occur with most all-metal hot ends if you pull molten filament up into the cold zone. Any molten filament that enters the cold zone rapidly cool... |
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<p>I am encountering a problem with this ID3 printer using ABS -- at some point during the print the print head displaces on the y-axis by 2-3 centimeters. I cannot pinpoint how or why it is doing this. It has displa... | <p>This has happened to me in the past and here are a few things that I determined could have been the cause:</p>
<ul>
<li>Limit Switch triggered. My coworker was able to repeat the issue by manually triggering a limit switch during the print. Somehow, this seemed to cause the relative axis to shift on his MakerBot Re... |
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<p>Recently, the ticking sounds started to come from feeder of my UM2. Inspecting it I have noticed that once in a while stepper motor jumps back for few steps. I have an idea of what can be the reason, but I just wa... | <p>Ultimately, your stepper motor is unsuccessful in driving the filament through the extruder. A couple potential reasons:</p>
<ul>
<li>extruder temperature isn't high enough. This could either be operator error from not setting the temperature correctly or your machine is getting a false reading. Typically, for ABS/... |
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<p>I have a long 8 mm smooth steel rod of about 55 cm long. This rods bend easily due to the length. If I replace them with 8mm solid carbon fiber rods, will the bending reduce? Will the bearings wear off t... | <p>Steel is the best material for a linear rod when you have a fixed cross-section. It will have the least flex of any rod (aside from some exotic metals) of the same size. </p>
<p>Carbon fiber's material properties might seem superior at first sight, but the stiffness is very anisotropic -- it's very stiff along the ... |
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<p>My printer will feature LM8UU bearings/threaded rods for the z-axis and bronze sinter bushings on the x- and y-Axis.</p>
<p>As also, but not only, written here <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Lubrication" rel="no... | <p>A mid-weight PTFE grease like the popular Superlube will work in all the cases you mention (bearings, screws, and sintered bushings). 3D printer service conditions are quite light-duty as far as lubricants are concerned. You really just need to keep everything a little bit "wet" with oil or grease and performance wi... |
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<p>I began printing the parts for the Ultrascope DIY telescope designed by the Open Space Agency. See <a href="http://www.openspaceagency.com/ultrascope" rel="noreferrer">http://www.openspaceagency.com/ultrascope</a... | <p>The orientation of the part in the STL file depends on the Software that creates the file. I had a software that would export the parts standing upright instead of laying flat. Depending on the CAD software it can be beneficial for the creator of the model to create in in a different orientation as the one you want ... |
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<p>I'm having a lot of trouble printing polypropylene right now, and I think it may have to do with the conditions. I'm using a very thin coat of ABS on the base plate (just as you would do when printing with ABS) in... | <p>Polypropylene is a bear to print. There's a good reason almost nobody does it. The main problem is that it's a semi-crystalline material, which means it doesn't follow the normal rules for warping prevention.</p>
<p>An amorphous polymer like ABS or PET is able to slowly flow or creep until it cools below the glass ... |
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<p>I have an idea for a 3D printed project, but I'm a total noob in this area and need someone to reality check it for me.</p>
<p>Basically what I want to do is a tricopter frame made of a <a href="https://en.wikipe... | <p>For designing your part, especially considering the repetitive mathematics involved, I would consider to learn to use OpenSCAD. I've learned the program and it fits your modeling requirement quite well. I feel it's easy to learn and is somewhat easier for folks who have a programming background. I don't have one, bu... |
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<p>I can download a file from Tinkercad as any of these:</p>
<pre><code>.STL
.OBJ
.X3D
.VRML
</code></pre>
<p>Is there a way to convert any of those file types to .DWG?</p>
| <p>For designing your part, especially considering the repetitive mathematics involved, I would consider to learn to use OpenSCAD. I've learned the program and it fits your modeling requirement quite well. I feel it's easy to learn and is somewhat easier for folks who have a programming background. I don't have one, bu... |
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<p>I am new to 3D printing and need to know if I use steel in printing, do I get the same strength (compression and shear) as steel profiles manufactured in a factory?</p>
| <p>A laser sintered part typically uses what could be described as surface bonding, as it does not melt particularly deeply into the powder. It would not have the same strength characteristics as machined steel or otherwise processed metal. A part constructed from 3d printing using feed metal/welding methods would have... |
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<p>I've been asked to prepare a 3D model for 3D printing in sandstone. I've been told that it needs to be 3" tall and the walls have to be at least 2 mm thick. It's an absolute pain in the neck having to make su... | <p>Yes, you can just print it solid. However, it might be significantly more expensive to print your object entirely solid. For instance, Shapeways charges \$0.75 per cm³ of material for their full-color sandstone. A solid cube of 5x5x5 cm would cost \$96 to print, whereas it would only cost around \$6 if you printed i... |
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<p>Is there a way to make all your prints seamless?? I know there was this program that printed a vase constantly changing the z axis making it seamless. Why cant this be done with regular prints?</p>
| <p>If you ever seen 3d printouts on your own and you did keep it in hand then you probably felt layers. Most printouts contains 3 main "components"</p>
<ol>
<li>bottom and top component (floor and ceiling)</li>
<li>outline (perimeters)</li>
<li>infill (inside supporting structure)</li>
</ol>
<p>It is almost imposible... |
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<p>During printing, my printer occasionally makes some mystery moves: it will very slowly move either the X or Y axis all the way to the left/front, before very slowly moving back to its original position and resumin... | <p>The issue was due to a corrupt SD-card, which was occasionally having some garbage read from it. It turns out that Marlin will try interpret a corrupt move command like <code>G0 X1q3.54</code> and still read as many numbers as it can. In this example, it would be interpreted as <code>G0 X1</code> rather than (as mig... |
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<p>I've been going down the learning road with two broken printers that I'm rebuilding with better parts and electronics.</p>
<p>One thing that I've recognized is that there is a pretty low likelihood that any hoten... | <p>The short answer is, you use the temps and speeds that give you good results. It's trial and error. </p>
<p>The temperature number your printer reports really doesn't matter. That's just a process control variable: it needs to be consistent and repeatable, but it doesn't need to be accurate against an independent r... |
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<p>I have a 3D printer that is going crazy with x-axis shift, and I need a tension gauge belt to measure the tension.</p>
<p>I've never used one before, and looking online, I can't tell which one would be the right ... | <p>It's extremely unlikely that belt tension is actually your problem. I've never heard of anyone using a gauge to measure their belt tension. Typically you just pull your belt tight by hand so that it produces a low note when plucked. It's far more likely that you're experiencing shifts due to too high or too low step... |
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<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/871/is-22-guage-stranded-hookup-wire-the-correct-wire-to-connect-the-switching-power">I'm still looking at wires</a> for my Prusa i3, to go between the power... | <p><strong>THHN</strong> wire is thermoplastic high heat-resistant nylon coated wire.<br>
<strong>THWN</strong> is thermoplastic heat- and moisture-resistant nylon coated wire.</p>
<p><strong>"T"</strong> stands for thermoplastic insulation covering the wire itself.<br>
<strong>"H"</strong> stands for a heat resistanc... |
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<p>I have a really bent heatbed PCB, the middle is elevated about 3 mm with respect to all edges.</p>
<p>I have found this thread <a href="http://midibox.org/forums/topic/17599-warped-pcbs/" rel="noreferrer">Warped ... | <p>Baking PCB in an oven is not a good idea, I would say. I know PCBs are resistive to the heat (especially heatbeds) but, still, it sounds odd. But the real question is how baking would help. Let's leave it.</p>
<p>If your heatbed is such bent you can do few things depending on your situation/environment.</p>
<p>You... |
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Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p><strong>Before you put duplicate from this <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/147/which-are-the-food-safe-materials-and-how-do-i-recognize-them">Which are the food-safe materials and how do I ... | <p>In general, PLA is known as a "food safe" filament, especially <strong><em>Natural PLA</em></strong>. However, filament suppliers have different processes that may detriment the food safe quality.</p>
<p>Doing a little digging, I found <a href="https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=47" rel="noreferrer">an a... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>On my <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI" rel="nofollow">Switching Power Supply</a> there is a little orange trimpot that's marked <code>VR1</code>; what does that do, and does it work si... | <p>No doubt it's just a final tuning potentiometer. Even on the pictures you linked it's described as V adj which stands for voltage adjustment.
It's a way to tune your power supply's output as it can vary depending on temperature/humidity/wall-plug voltage/etc.</p>
<p>It's usually set properly and doesn't need to be ... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I just recently purchased a new MightyBoard (Rev G) for my Replicator that requires a new power supply. </p>
<p>The power supply for the Rev E was a 24 V/9.2 A which was necessary for the dual extruders... | <p>I suggest looking at the maximum amperage draw for all components that could be on at one time, and then find a power supply that can supply at least 20% more current. You would never want to get a supply rated for lower current than your max draw, because then it will affect the torque or your motors, or the tempe... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>Some 3 mm filaments seem to actually be 3 mm - is there any way to shave off the excess and use it as 2.85 mm? </p>
| <p>I would not recommend you to try and somehow re-size the filament, since even the smallest of irregularities and error in diameter occurring from such a process would ruin your prints with sporadic over and under extrusion. Rather, if you have the tools available, you could grind the filament into pellets, and use a... |
Instruct:
Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph
Query:
<p>I was working on my printer when something metallic came into contact with the pcb. I smelled smoke and quickly unplugged the printer. Anyway, this is the result and, of course, the heat bed won't heat. </p>
<p>C... | <p>What happend was short circuit of course. There is no doubt you overheated HB so copper detached from HB base plate. Because you wrote it doesn't work it means copper tracks are broken.</p>
<p>There is very low chance to fix it. I mean it - near to zero.</p>
<p>What you could do is:</p>
<ol>
<li>Detach HB from ar... |
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