Id stringlengths 1 5 | CreationDate stringdate 2016-01-12 18:45:19 2024-03-04 20:00:27 | Body stringlengths 61 26.1k | Title stringlengths 15 147 | Tags stringlengths 5 86 | Answer stringlengths 40 29.3k ⌀ |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1065 | 2016-05-01T06:42:46.247 | <p>Hey so theres a product we have been prototyping.
We cant do FDM. The item has a ball valve.
and the ball ~ 1.6-1.9mm
I cant seem to prototype it. I have tried SLS, SLA, Polyjet.
Anybody knows what could be wrong, or what should be the dimension i should be using?
I thought I would post this at engineering secti... | Ball valve to be prototyped | |3d-design|rapid-prototyping| | <p>Hey why to make it soooo sophisticated and poor?
Air valve cannot be designed with 2 stiff elements - it will never work.</p>
<p>Make the air your friend but not the enemy. Use old good rubber (silicone) "flake" instead. Especially when you have such small design.</p>
<p>Take a look on the picture.</p>
<p><a href... |
1076 | 2016-05-02T14:25:23.397 | <p>I've been interested in 3D printing for the past month however, I have noticed that it's sort of a "reserved" topic. Meaning that everyone who talks about it, has already some basic knowledge about the topic. What are some good resources for someone who wants to start learning from zero? My main goal is to acquire e... | What is a good book to read about 3D printers? | |printer-building| | <p>If you really want to learn about three dimensional printing then "Mastering 3D Printing" by Joan Horvath, published by Apress, would be a good place to start. </p>
<p>It does not provide you the in depth knowledge about all the types of printers or materials but it is good enough to get a newbie like me or you get... |
1083 | 2016-05-03T16:21:48.817 | <p>I've printed mostly ABS in the past and encountered <a href="https://www.google.com/#q=3d+printing+layer+delamination">delamination</a> between layers many times. I've ensured the following conditions regularly:</p>
<ul>
<li>Build plate is level</li>
<li>Base of print isn't warped (using ABS slurry)</li>
<li>Preven... | Layer delamination | |fdm|makerbot|abs|print-quality|delamination| | <p>wall size and filling are also parameters.
If wall size is too thin delamination is more visible</p>
|
1085 | 2016-05-03T18:08:00.367 | <p>I'm using brand new PLA filament and am getting frequent clogs in my extruder.</p>
<p>I've had this problem with 2 different filaments from 2 different vendors.</p>
<p>It will be print just fine, then clog up. It doesn't ever seem to go more than 5 minutes before clogging. When it clogs, and I pull out the filame... | Why does my PLA filament form a spiral shape and clog my extruder? | |filament|extruder|prusa-i3|pla| | <p>I've found that this happens on my prints on the first layer when it's a really big layer. If you have the initial fan speed on something really low, and it prints for a long time (ie giant first layer) it will twist up the filament. Thanks for the answers, I was confused too.</p>
|
1089 | 2016-05-04T02:47:04.393 | <p>I found a nice model for a ship from the game "Eve". It doesn't have a flat bottom, so it needs support material. But Slic3r generates several dozen tiny support pillars, and one by one they break loose from the build plate. As they get tall, the leverage of course increases, and since they're so tiny they don't hav... | Getting better support than Slic3r generates | |support-structures|support-material| | <p>In my point of view it seems that the bed offset not optimal.
I see that you are using the blue tape, which is better than any other tape. As a next step I would recommend to try different types of glue.</p>
<p>I agree with Tormod Haugene and can also recommend Cura. You can also experiment there with a lot of para... |
1098 | 2016-05-04T13:19:59.970 | <blockquote>
<p>You may want to use <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPSTestCode.pde" rel="noreferrer">this code</a> to test all the electronics before
installing any of the suggested firmwares.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I'm planning on:</p>
<ol>
<li>Flashing the <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPSTestCod... | Should I comment out the code for what I am not testing when loading the test firmware for Ramps 1.4? | |ramps-1.4|firmware| | <p>There's no reason to comment anything out. It will work just fine without any modification, even if you're just testing a single motor. That said, I don't see the value of this "test firmware" over just installing Marlin.</p>
|
1102 | 2016-05-04T15:35:03.997 | <p>Has anyone tried painting a PLA (or other) print with stone-look spray paints? In particular, how does the result look compared to printing with stone-fill filaments? It looks a lot cheaper, but will it look inferior?</p>
<p>One such paint: <a href="http://www.krylon.com/press-room/press-releases/2013/04/add-a-touc... | Stone-look surface via painting? | |filament|post-processing|filament-quality| | <p>It's totally possible to achieve but the result vastly <strong>depends</strong> on your painting skills and your spray paint quality. </p>
<p>Your can look at <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Stone-Head/?ALLSTEPS" rel="noreferrer">this page</a> for a concrete example. </p>
<p>How it compares to ... |
1113 | 2016-05-05T20:20:01.943 | <p>I am very close to buying a 3D printer and have started to do some preliminary design work from the things I'd like to make, but I have a question: Which corner of the print bed corresponds to the origin (0,0,0) in slicer software? Is this the same across slicers and printers?</p>
<p>The reason I ask this is becaus... | Slicer/Printer Origin | |software|slicing| | <p>On Cartesian printers, the origin is usually the front left corner.</p>
<p>On Delta printers, the origin is in the center.</p>
<p>If you are having trouble getting prints off the build plate, maybe consider a removable flexible build surface, such as the <a href="https://3d-easy.xyz/en-us" rel="nofollow noreferrer">... |
1117 | 2016-05-06T00:02:50.243 | <p>i have seen formbox <a href="http://golem13.fr/formbox/" rel="nofollow">http://golem13.fr/formbox/</a> and it uses heat and many materials like PVC. Is there any way to do this with paper or paper derivatives(like egg carton)? If the answer is yes, how can i do that?</p>
| Alternative 3d molding techniques at home | |3d-models|material| | <p>Forming kinda blister out of paper is possible but not the way it's formed out of plastic. Paper is not elastic, it's bendable but not strechable. It's the issue of how cellulose fibers are formed and how are they entangled. </p>
<p>Anyway - you can create a form out of wet mixed paper pulp. Wrap it around your mod... |
1120 | 2016-05-06T18:56:01.593 | <p>I'm trying to set up <a href="http://octoprint.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OctoPrint</a> on my Linux Ubuntu 16.04 desktop to work with my Micro3D printer. The printer works fine on Mac and Windows:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kmil9.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kmil9.p... | 3D printing using OctoPrint on Linux Ubuntu desktop | |desktop-printer|octoprint| | <p>For me it sounds like you've missed to install the CuraEngine for slicing, but I'm only guessing, as I'm not using OctoPrint at all.</p>
<p>Instead I'm using Cura directly and save gcode to a SD or use USB printing for quick/small prints.</p>
<p>Regrads ;)</p>
|
1127 | 2016-05-08T14:30:46.043 | <p>I've noticed that some of my prints (mostly square-ish objects) are coming out with gaps between the outside shells and the inner parts. This gap is visible even in the 2D sliced preview of the layers so I think it must have something to do with slicing settings, but I'm at a loss for what I need to change to fix it... | What setting do I need to change to get rid of this gap between the shells and the inside? | |software|slicing|mattercontrol| | <p>It's generally called infill overlap.
In terms of first layer it's good to set extrude rate to 120% or even more so infill will overlap perimeters and itself. There is also the issue of "overlapping" layers which is not managed by any specific parameter. it's the issue of layer thickness and HE temperature.</p>
<p... |
1128 | 2016-05-08T14:50:39.170 | <p>I have a 30ish year old travel mug from Sheetz that I intend to model and print using my OpenScad skills. The fact that it is an insulated mug means that the inside is hollow to an extent.</p>
<p>What reccomendations do you have toward turning this into a foodsafe, leakproof success?</p>
| Travel Mug Woes | |food| | <p><strong>You cannot make a safe coffee cup using home FDM printers. There are no printable thermoplastics available to consumers/hobbyists that will reliably AND safely contain coffee/tea temperature beverages.</strong> </p>
<p>Even though some plastics may appear mechanically suitable at first sight, there are long... |
1135 | 2016-05-09T16:28:22.077 | <p>I need help opening a <code>.max</code> file a friend sent me. The thing is, I don't have Alias Maya. Well, a copy of Alias Maya that works anyway.</p>
<p>Are there any other file openers that I can use? Or do I have to get Maya to open the file? Would Alias Maya open the file? I don't want to get download 1.3 GB an... | How to open .max files | |3d-models|file-formats|123d-catch| | <p>You could try import it with <a href="https://www.blender.org/download/" rel="nofollow">blender</a>. It's a free software which should be able to import the files.</p>
<p>First thing is to go the the File->User Preferences->Add Ons tab. In the Import-Export section, enable the 3DS Add-on.</p>
<p>After that you can... |
1136 | 2016-05-09T17:46:43.240 | <p>So, have a plastic car part I want to duplicate because the driver side part is broken (I have the passenger side part) and It isn't sold anymore. It's a small piece that would be an excellent candidate for a 3D printed replacement. I know there are companies I can send a 3D model to that will happily print it for m... | Are there any services that offer 3D scanning? | |3d-design|3d-models| | <p>The right <a href="https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=local%203d%20scanning%20services" rel="noreferrer">Google</a> (or other) search should do the trick. I've provided 3D Printing services via <a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/" rel="noreferrer">3D Hubs</a> and <a href="https://www.makexyz.com/" rel="noreferrer">Ma... |
1143 | 2016-05-10T15:52:03.190 | <p>I know there is a 3d printing technique, where sheet of papers are cut and glued. Like the ones <a href="http://www.gizmag.com/staples-mcor-easy-3d-printing/25284/" rel="nofollow">Staples</a> has in their stores. But this sort of paper isnt recyclable, because of the heavy use of glue.</p>
<p>Is anywhere filament a... | Print paper or cellulose - any recyclable filament? | |filament|recycling| | <p>Filament made of Polylactic acid (<a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/PLA" rel="nofollow">PLA</a>) is usually made of biological materials (such as corn), and can therefore be considered bio-degradable in most cases.</p>
<p>Whether the filament is 100% bio-degradable (and non-toxic for the surroundings) will depend on ... |
1144 | 2016-05-11T06:45:35.900 | <p>I have moved forward with the whole <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1135/how-to-open-max-files">.max thing</a>. It's on the back burner. But not as critical now. I have found a Sketchup model of the model I want. But it is ridiculously small (0.17 m long by 0.10 m wide!).</p>
<p>How do I enla... | How to enlarge a Sketchup Model | |3d-models|resolution|support-structures| | <p>Use Cura middle button in bottom
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hc1s8.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hc1s8.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
1150 | 2016-05-11T20:46:53.420 | <p>I am trying to make a structured light 3D scanner using single camera, light projector and a turntable.</p>
<p>After days on Google I did not find any reliable open source project which I can get to work. <a href="https://github.com/jakobwilm/slstudio" rel="noreferrer">SLStudio</a> really seemed a good choice but ... | Open Source 3D scanning | |3d-design|open-source|scanning| | <p>You can use a Kinect sensor for Xbox 360 OR Kinect sensor for Xbox One. That sensor allows you to get a true 3D surface with its SDK. You can connect these devices directly to your PC using USB (I have one).</p>
<p>Even the Xbox One model, in its SDK, has an example that allows you export your captured mesh as STL ... |
1151 | 2016-05-11T22:38:09.423 | <p>After printing successfully for a while I received an error saying:</p>
<p>Tool 0 Failure!<br>
Temp limit reached <br>
Shutdown or restart.<br></p>
<p>The front panel is not responsive and doesn't allow the printer to print at all. If I quickly go to monitor mode it shows tool 0 temperature in the ~700°C range; wh... | FlashForge Creator Pro Tool Failure! Temp limit reached | |electronics|heat-management| | <p>Oh yeah my printer had that. Specifically 2 Flash Forge Creator Pros, Replace the thermal couple. Done. Really fragile thermal couples they use.</p>
<p>Edit I see you tried shorting the TC. Wouldn't shorting the TC, produce the same error?</p>
|
1156 | 2016-05-12T15:44:06.400 | <p>I have a Flashforge Creator Dual.</p>
<p>One corner of my print bed is warped down. I am thinking about having a steel print bed made so it would tend to stay flat. </p>
<p>Has anyone tried this?</p>
| Would a steel, instead of an aluminium, plate be reasonable? | |heated-bed| | <p>Whether you should use steel or aluminum depends on the construction of your print bed stack. Either will work, but there are trade-offs involved.</p>
<p>Various considerations that may come into play:</p>
<ul>
<li>A flat sheet of aluminum has better <strong>stiffness/weight ratio</strong> than a flat sheet of ste... |
1160 | 2016-05-13T09:25:18.297 | <p>I use Prusa i3 with one extruder for some years and I would like to print from one material in two colors or from different materials for one model. Therefore I'm lookig for new printer with dual extruder.</p>
<p>Is there some way how to measure and/or compare quality of printers with dual extruder on the market?</... | How to choose printer with dual extruder? | |dual-nozzle| | <p>"Make" Magazine compares 3-D printers in a way that is as scientific as possible to help determine the strengths/weaknesses of each 3-D printer compared to others. The link to the November 2015 comparison test is available here: <a href="http://makezine.com/comparison/3dprinters/" rel="nofollow">http://makezine.com/... |
1161 | 2016-05-13T13:12:06.020 | <p>I recently started to use Simplify3D! It is great software, but I have a problem with adjustment of amount of plastic extruded. I have a slight under extrusion after I adjusted amount of plastic extruded using perimeter test (Printing a square with wall thickness of one layer, measuring, adjusting extrusion multipl... | Extrusion adjustment | |software|slicing|extrusion|simplify3d| | <p><strong>SHORT ANSWER</strong></p>
<p>You're not supposed to do the single-wall perimeter thickness test to calibrate Simplify3D. That screws up the extrusion volume. The correct volume calibration procedure for S3D is: </p>
<ol>
<li>Measure actual average filament diameter and input that</li>
<li>Print a 100% infi... |
1164 | 2016-05-13T17:06:02.507 | <p>This is related to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/801/cons-to-uv-printing/">Cons to UV printing</a> and focused on <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/801/cons-to-uv-printing#816">Ryan Carlyle's answer</a>, mentioning:</p>
<blockquote>
<p><em>"...resin-curing SLA/DLP p... | Pros to UV printing | |resin|sla|dlp|uv-printer| | <p>When using a DLP 3D printer, a projector (or other UV light source) is shining on a layer of resin. As the light source shines on a whole layer at a time, it is able to print at a rather constant linear vertical rate. This rate is normally around 2.5 cm (1 inch)/hour</p>
<p>When comparing this to a standard FDM pri... |
1165 | 2016-05-14T02:39:17.017 | <p>I have a 3D model that I'd like to print. This is my first project, so I'm trying to decide if I'm getting in over my head. Here's the model rendered with Blender:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1cVF.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1cVF.png" alt="enter image description here">... | Is this model feasible to print? | |3d-models|3d-design|services| | <p>The simplest and cheapest method to have this object printed would be to have individual STL files for each part and give these to the print shop with the color of each piece.</p>
<p>Printing as a single piece would be much more expensive as more advance methods would be needed as mentioned in the other answers.</p... |
1167 | 2016-05-14T03:31:20.547 | <p>I printed a big base for a model, but the corners of the bottom bent up, making the whole base rock when set on a table. Is there a quick fix for a makerbot2 without a heated plate?</p>
| How could I keep the material on the print plate from bending up on a makerbot 2? | |makerbot|print-quality|warping| | <p>Try printing with a raft, and adding "helper discs" to expand the size of the raft. You might also try lowering your extruder temperature a bit to reduce the cooling temperature differential.</p>
|
1180 | 2016-05-16T02:05:59.790 | <p>Do 3D printers prefer particular topology? In case I'm not using the word quite right, I'm specifically wondering if I should make the faces in my models:</p>
<ol>
<li>triangles</li>
<li>quads</li>
<li>n-gons.. </li>
</ol>
| Do 3D Printers Prefer Particular Topology? | |3d-models| | <p>The most common file format in 3D printing is <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)" rel="nofollow">STL</a>. This file format is using triangles only so when you export an object from your CAD application to STL then exporter has to transform all n-gon faces into triangles.</p>
<p>Once the file i... |
1187 | 2016-05-16T12:11:49.243 | <p>Will an inconsistent vertex density likely introduce artifacts in a print? Or is it OK as long as it's a smooth surface?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmO9L.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmO9L.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
| Is inconsistent vertex density a bad thing? | |3d-models|3d-design|slicing| | <p>For the most part, the exact level of vertex density doesn't matter too much. But it does depend on the slicer and settings. Some slicers (like Slic3r) will auto-decimate toolpaths to ensure that the rate of motion commands isn't too difficult for the old, slow 8bit processors in most consumer/hobbyist 3d printers. ... |
1196 | 2016-05-18T06:49:31.870 | <p>I've built a a PrintrBot inspired printer with a moving printbed for the X-Axis movement. It's controlled by a RAMPS board running Marlin firmware. And there is a problem with the X-Axis positioning.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIoZV.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIoZV.png... | 'Sine wave' deviation in X-Axis on moving bed printer. | |print-quality|marlin| | <p>This is the issue of your z-axis rather than x- or y-axis because printing speed doesn't have any influence on the results.</p>
<p>I bet:</p>
<ul>
<li>your threded rods are bent or</li>
<li>nuts on these rods have too high clearance or</li>
<li>nuts on these rods have eccentricity or</li>
<li>couplings (between mo... |
1205 | 2016-05-20T14:36:50.827 | <p>I have a FlashForge CreatorX (MakerBot clone) that's been working fine for about 15 months. Int he past month, I started noticing "thin" layers in some of my ABS prints. I finally tracked the issue down to the extruder gear grinding the filament (after a while, enough filament had ground off that the gear teeth were... | Increased issues with filament grinding | |filament| | <p>After disassembling the extruder mechanism, I tracked the issue down to a clogged extruder… though not in the way I'd expected. A (previously?) common method to drop filament down to the hot end and create a heat-break between the heater and the extruder gear was the use of a PTFE (Teflon) sleeve. Over time, this sl... |
1211 | 2016-05-21T21:44:29.903 | <p>What is the least expensive 3D printer available today? I am looking for something suitable for general use in a home office.</p>
| What is the least expensive 3D printer? | |desktop-printer| | <p>You can get an A8 3D printer on Gearbest at 149$, It's a version of an i3, with easy assemble and pre configured, and it have a suprising good quality.</p>
<p>I thinks is the best price/quality that you can find at the moment. It prints with a good quality by default and you can upgrade it if you need it without sp... |
1234 | 2016-05-29T10:44:52.647 | <p>I am attempting to construct model tank tracks with accompanying wheels and sprockets. All parts will be printed in PLA. The tracks will be driven by electric motors.</p>
<p>What would be a suitable grease for this project to minimize friction without damaging the plastics.</p>
| Grease for PLA sprocket | |pla|3d-models| | <p>I have been using <em>sewing machine oil</em> for my 3D printed extruder gear for a couple of years, without any noticeable wear so far.</p>
<p>In general, I believe any kind of low viscosity oil would do, but then again, it also depends on the environment in which you plan to use the model. If you plan on using it... |
1242 | 2016-05-31T16:52:13.810 | <p>Should I consider health impact of ABS or PLA when printing cookie cutter similar to image below?</p>
<p>How safe it is to use ABS or PLA for kitchenware in general?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKoaY.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKoaY.jpg" alt="enter image description her... | Should I consider health impact of ABS or PLA when printing cookie cutter? | |pla|abs|health| | <p>If it's one-time-use, both ABS and PLA are perfectly safe for use as a cookie cutter. </p>
<p>The "food safety" of 3D printed parts is fairly controversial. In fact, whether any particular material is approved by regulators (such as the US FDA) for food contact is much more complex than most people realize. Materia... |
1244 | 2016-05-31T20:03:01.093 | <p>I've been having a hard time lately getting the raft off of my ABS prints.</p>
<p>Is that a symptom of either a nozzle or bed that are too hot? Or is there some other factor I should be looking in to?</p>
<p>I have an UP mini that I've modified both the nozzle and bed to customize the temperatures on.</p>
<p>Bed ... | Raft hard to remove? | |abs|fdm|rafts|fff| | <p>I haven't got a printer with a heated bed so have only tested this on PLA but I have found editing the G code so the printer cools the nozzle down and then heats it up again gives the raft enough time to cool down so that it peels off easier when the print is finished. </p>
|
1245 | 2016-06-01T00:30:14.640 | <p>Would I damage anything running 12 V on a 24 V cartridge heater? I know it wont reach a max temperature 300 °C? I am using the E3D hotend set up.</p>
| Running 12 V on a 24 V heater cartridge? | |electronics|heat| | <p>Applying 12 V to a 24 V heater cartridge won't damage anything, but you may have severe issues reaching and maintaining your target temp. A standard E3D heater cartridge is 40 W. When you run a 24 V cartridge on 12 V, you only get 10 W of heater power. Here are some rough estimates on where your hot block heat goes:... |
1251 | 2016-06-02T15:05:32.857 | <p>From what I've been able to find out, online sources recommend around 205ºC for PLA and around 240ºC for ABS. But these are only guidelines, of course. Optimal printing temperature can be different depending on the printer, the filament, the model and other slicer settings.</p>
<p>For example, I've had success prin... | How to choose an extrusion temperature? | |print-quality|extruder|hotend|knowledgebase| | <h1>Printing temperature basics</h1>
<p>Manufacturers generally specify a somewhat wide range of printing temperatures, and what temperature you should actually need can only be determined by trial and error:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>The thermistor in your hotend is not 100 % accurate and may have an offset of a few degrees com... |
1258 | 2016-06-03T17:56:37.480 | <p>I've been working on my own DIY 3-D printer recently, and I've been trying to experiment a little with different materials for the body. Someone suggested using HDPE (high-density polyethylene), since it works well on a CNC machine, which would make creating a number of prototypes easy. I know HDPE can also be used ... | HDPE as the body of a 3-D Printer? | |diy-3d-printer|printer-building|hdpe| | <p>I've tried this material (8 mm thickness) for a Prusa i3 clone of my own design but needed to abandon using it as it doesn't allow to be cut by laser easily on my friends laser cutting machine (not a hobby laser cutting machine, it is his business). </p>
<p>HDPE requires lower speed than cutting Plexiglas or Acryli... |
1262 | 2016-06-05T14:24:14.600 | <p>For a large scale project, I need a slicer which gives me the slices as image (BMP or vector).
I have a 3d model and want to assemble it manually using large printouts on cardboard. For this I need my 3d model somehow sliced into 2mm layers, get a silhouette of the outline for every layer and print it in cardboar... | Slicer that exports vectors or pics for every slice | |3d-models|slicing| | <p>Your approach is one of many and you may find that Slic3r will do as you require.</p>
<p>There's a direct reference to generating SVG files (vector) at this link:
<a href="http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/svg-output" rel="nofollow">http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/svg-output</a></p>
<p>You may have to create a p... |
1266 | 2016-06-06T04:59:03.687 | <p>I am planning on getting a 3D printer soon and I was just wondering, what do you do with 3D prints that either failed or were prototypes that you no longer want?<br>
I tried looking online but the closest I got was effects on environment, turning prints back into filament, or restarting a failed print half-way, none... | What to do with failed/unwanted 3D prints? | |filament|pla|abs|recycling| | <p>If you have a few friends you could pitch in and use a recycling service like <a href="https://www.terracycle.com/en-US/zero_waste_boxes/3d-printing-materials" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Terracycle</a> where you can send your failed prints, rafts and scraps. No affiliation with Terracycle, it's just a service that I ... |
1271 | 2016-06-06T13:33:48.803 | <p>I have an object that I want to print in 3D. But I have a few questions about it. What are the things that I have to watch out for when 3D printing? </p>
<p>I know how to change the metric size etc. Some people said that it's best to set the thickness to a low amount and not make the object solid (to leave the in... | 3D printing with blender | |3d-models|3d-design|software|blender| | <blockquote>
<p>What are the things that i have to watch out for when 3d printing? </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://blender.stackexchange.com/q/7910/2816">non manifold geometry</a> : geometry that can not exist in the real world. </p>
<p>It's a good idea to check if the dimensions of your mesh are correct b... |
1275 | 2016-06-07T15:06:01.907 | <p>I just recently upgraded my Printrbot Simple Metal with a heated bed (and longer x-axis). I looked up some tutorials, and all of them placed the thermistor as in the picture on the left below, so I did too. However, the design of the heat plate seems to strongly suggest thermistor placement as in the picture on the ... | Heated bed thermistor placement | |heated-bed|thermistor| | <p>It doesn't make a great deal of difference where you place the thermistor; do whatever is most convenient for you. The temperature of the heated bed is not very critical, and some inaccuracy in the measurement is perfectly fine. The point is to keep the print from cooling down too fast, and whether the bed is at 95C... |
1277 | 2016-06-07T20:00:05.497 | <p>It occurs to me that I'm never really thinking about layer height when I calibrate my z-probe offset. This is obviously an oversight, because I'll want my nozzle to start higher for 0.3mm layers than for 0.1mm layers.</p>
<p>After this realization comes the question: Do I need to recalibrate every time I switch to ... | Do I need to recalibrate z-probe offset every time I switch to a different layer height? | |calibration|z-axis|z-probe|layer-height| | <p>All modern slicers adjust the nozzle position for the first layer in accordance with your chosen layer height. You can see this in your gcode if you slice files with different layer heights. <em>Before you add special slicer settings and offsets,</em> if you print 0.1mm layers, the nozzle will start at Z=0.1mm, and ... |
1281 | 2016-06-07T23:22:16.030 | <p>First, a little background. A couple of years ago, I was researching making my own candy, and I came across this page: <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/LeGummies-brick-shaped-gummy-candies/" rel="nofollow">Lego brick shaped gummy candies</a>, describing how to use real Lego bricks as a positive to make silic... | Creating positives for a food-safe silicone mold: safe? | |safety|food| | <p>In principle, ABS is safe for contact with (cold or room-temperature) food. The two main concerns specific to 3D printing are, assuming you start with a filament that is not itself contaminated:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Pores and holes in the printed part which may harbor bacteria</p></li>
<li><p>Impurities introduced into ... |
1286 | 2016-06-09T06:56:11.857 | <p>I need to transport my FDM 3D Printer because I am moving.</p>
<p>What are the precautions that one should take?<br> Should I dismount the motors and axes?<br> I would definitively unplug the electronics as far as reasonable and fix the motors to the frame so they don't slide during transport.<br> Should I have a h... | How to transport a 3D printer? Dismount needed? | |safety|mechanics| | <p>You just need to take basic security actions. like fixing all movable parts simple as that </p>
|
1292 | 2016-06-10T04:09:11.657 | <p>I have a home built RepRap with all sides open..</p>
<p>Would there be any advantage to enclosing the print area in acrylic?</p>
| Should I enclose my 3D Printer? | |reprap|cooling|knowledgebase|enclosure| | <p>Consider the environmental conditions where your printer is.</p>
<p>I have my printer in a garage, where the door is sometimes open, closed, or slightly ajar. This leads to gusts of wind, causing lifting and ruining multiple prints.</p>
<p>I surrounded the printer on three sides with walls made from the original pa... |
1309 | 2016-06-10T18:35:07.770 | <p>I've been trying to build <a href="https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine" rel="noreferrer">CuraEngine</a> on Ubuntu following the Github instructions.</p>
<p>The problem is that it lists some requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Clone the CuraEngine repository;</p></li>
<li><p>Install Protobuf (see below);</p></li>
<li... | How to build CuraEngine? | |software|slicing|ultimaker-cura| | <p>I'm assuming you actually want to <em>build</em> Cura, rather than simply install Cura. If you instead want to install Cura, you can try <code>sudo apt-get install cura-engine</code></p>
<p><em>The following instructions were tested on my own Debian 8 (Jessie) distribution; they should be mostly, if not entirely, t... |
1310 | 2016-06-11T12:19:06.190 | <p><strong>Background:</strong></p>
<p>I am using the Flux Delta 3d Printer, and it arrived with a glue stick. Now on their forums it said to apply 2 layers of glue and let it dry, there's supposed to be a link there on how long it should dry. However that link is broken. </p>
<p><strong>My question:</strong></p>
<p... | Not Heated Build Plate Glue Amount and Dry Duration | |desktop-printer|build-plate| | <p>As a fellow Flux Delta owner, I can answer this question with certainty. Two layers is sufficient. Be sure to consider the size of the model being printed and the additional area covered if you are using skirts or rafts.</p>
<p>If you apply the glue stick at the moment you turn on the printer, it will be dry enough... |
1312 | 2016-06-11T15:31:38.163 | <p>I am printing on a non-heated bed right now, but the question also applies to heated building plates. </p>
<p>How often should you replace the glue layers that's supposed to be applied before printing? Some say you can do up to a few prints, such as in this <a href="https://ultimaker.com/en/community/19056-glue-sti... | How often should I replace the glue layers on the bed? | |desktop-printer|heated-bed|build-plate| | <p>Depends on the glue and on your tolerance for messy undersides on your prints. It's fairly common for some of the glue to come off with the print. Or you may have marks from scrapers or rafts. Do you want to touch up that spot and have some artifacts on the bottom of the next print, or clean and redo the bed to get ... |
1316 | 2016-06-12T01:30:25.640 | <p>I use OctoPrint on an Ubuntu system with a M3D printer.</p>
<p>Midway through a recent print, the filament just stopped extruding although the motor-functions of the printer were proceeding fine. Since then, every print I attempt has trouble extruding proper amounts of filament. It's always not enough. The output i... | M3D filament not extruding well (anymore) | |filament|extruder|octoprint| | <p>You might have a case of clogged nozzle. You can check this easily by lifting the Z axis and running the extrusion motor. If it's grinding on filament or you notice extruded plastic is curling or going out slow, it's probably partial or total clog.</p>
<p>I have had the latter variant happen to myself recently, wit... |
1334 | 2016-06-13T18:08:39.310 | <p>I have this <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1381474" rel="noreferrer">GoPro mount for a quadcopter as STL file</a>. It looks as follows.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcZOR.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcZOR.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>How ... | What is the easiest way to modify/resize an object inside a STL file? | |3d-design|software|3d-models| | <p>I like to use <a href="https://slic3r.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Slic3r</a> for simplest slicing and rearranging operations.</p>
|
1355 | 2016-06-16T16:00:37.283 | <p>Is it possible to print toothbrush bristles using a common FDM 3D printer? I am particularly interested in the width of bristles, closeness together of each bristle, and the flexibility of each particular bristle.</p>
| Can toothbrush bristles be printed? | |filament|3d-models|fdm| | <p>I have had a go at doing something for a <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:552770" rel="nofollow">christmass tree</a> using a drop loop technique. You could use the same method or somthing similar to try and create something that looks like toothbrush bristles, but I don't think you would want to try cleanin... |
1357 | 2016-06-16T19:58:12.030 | <p>Since <a href="http://www.iboxprinters.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">iBox Nano</a> is the smallest public-production-available 3d Resin printer (and the cheapest so far), I assume it has a huge size limitation. So far I've only seen pictures of its outputs that are <a href="http://www.iboxprinters.com/ibox-nano-1/... | What is the biggest size of an object that iBox Nano can print? | |ibox-nano| | <p>On their <a href="http://www.iboxprinters.com/ibox-nano-1/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">website</a>, I found the following picture, which states a build area of 40 mm x 20 mm x 90 mm (1.57" x 0,79" x 3.54").</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TYxa8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="iBox Nano 3D printer spe... |
1359 | 2016-06-16T20:03:39.133 | <p>How to check leveling of printer bed ?
What should be ideal values on x,y and z to ensure printer bed is flat and there is no angle between plane of nozzle and plane of printer bed ?</p>
| CubePro 3D Printer | |calibration| | <p>The CubePro printer appears to have a comprehensive leveling system built into the menu. The direct instructions for this process can be found here:
<a href="http://infocenter.3dsystems.com/cubepro/user-guide/maintenance/calibrating-z-gap-and-print-pad-level" rel="nofollow">CubePro Calibration</a></p>
<p>I would su... |
1361 | 2016-06-17T00:00:34.130 | <p>What are the differences, and pros & cons, between 3D printers with varying layouts for moving head vs. moving build plate?</p>
<p>Example layouts would include:</p>
<ul>
<li>X Head; YZ Bed; </li>
<li>XY Head; Z Bed; </li>
<li>XYZ Head; </li>
<li>etc.</li>
</ul>
<p>In particular, what are their respective... | Differences between moving build plate vs. extruder | |print-quality|mechanics|build-plate| | <p>I think this is simple, breaking it into simple parts... It is much easier to calibrate a machine where each axis does one thing. For instance, the Ultimaker; one of the few XY-on-the-same-axis printers... It has such a crazy complicated pulley system. If one thing gets out of whack, everything will start binding. T... |
1371 | 2016-06-17T19:28:37.910 | <p>I am using Slic3r to generate the GCode for my Marlin-based printer. For some reason with increasing height my print starts to get messed up. On another part it starts to act like this when there are small parts. Is this related to my Slic3r settings, maybe to much filament being extruded or is this due to something... | Why is my print getting messed up mid-print? | |filament|pla|print-quality|slic3r|marlin| | <p>This can happen if your filament is having to be pulled off the spool and slipping in the extruder. Check if slippage is happening at the extruder, perhaps see if results change by providing some hand powered help. I have seen this with some glossy PLA I have used.</p>
|
1373 | 2016-06-17T21:47:42.837 | <p>I'm using a CraftBot original to print PLA, but some of the filament has become stuck in the teeth of the <a href="https://craftunique.com/item/craftbot-extruder-gear" rel="nofollow">extruder gear</a> on its way into the hot end. I'm having issues with the gear becoming stuck and "clicking" instead of turning, and ... | Good methods to clean extruder gear (hobbed) from filament pieces? | |filament|extruder|drive-gear| | <p>If your gear skips at the same place each time I have found on my machine that the gear does not fit the motor shaft properly and has a larger gap between the gear and the idler roller.</p>
<p>Check to see if there is a thicker buildup on one side of the gear than the other.</p>
<p>On my machine what I had to do w... |
1379 | 2016-06-18T04:11:16.817 | <p>I noticed 3Dsystems has Multi Jet 3D printing where wax is used provide support and give users with high resolution 3D printed objects. I was wondering if there were cheaper and smaller Multi Jet 3D printing?</p>
<p>Can Form 1+ from FormLabs be considered to do the same job with resin?</p>
| What are some cheaper versions of Multi Jet 3D printing? | |desktop-printer| | <p>Objet by Stratasys is a comparable technology (they call it PolyJet). SolidScape is also somewhat comparable (they also use jetting).</p>
<p>The FormLabs printers are not comparable. They use a completely different process, which can only print in one material. With jetting, you can mix different materials in the s... |
1383 | 2016-06-18T09:54:45.630 | <p>Is there any simple way of creating tappered thread in OpenSCAD? I need something like 10 mm in diameter at the end, 9 at the top and the height of 10 mm.</p>
| How to create tappered thread in OpenSCAD? | |3d-design| | <p>I have contacted Dan Kirshner (the author of openscad threads library) and he has updated the library. Now it supports tapered threads. Thanks, Dan!</p>
<p><a href="http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/" rel="nofollow">Thread-drawing modules for OpenSCAD</a></p>
|
1389 | 2016-06-19T18:21:47.690 | <p>I have an option to purchase a hobby multi-purpose device (lathe/mill/drill/grinder/cutter) which is manually controlled, but easily converted for driving by stepper motors (all 3 axis are controlled by turning knobs that can be replaced by gears, with convenient mount to couple each to a stepper motor). I have the ... | How much work would be converting Prusa firmware/software for CNC use? | |electronics|mechanics| | <p>None, if I choose the right control board.</p>
<p>The <a href="http://smoothieware.org/" rel="nofollow">Smoothieboard</a> supports CNC "out of the box"; it requires initial configuration, which, while somewhat different, is actually easier than for a 3D printer. Boards supporting <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Grb... |
1395 | 2016-06-20T20:13:11.347 | <p>I am trying to print model for Prosthetic Hand
(File Here: <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:596966" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:596966</a>) using Tinkerine 3D Printer. It went smooth for first hour and after that it started messing up(attached image).
I checked the leveling o... | Tinkerine 3D Printer | |print-quality|slicing|g-code| | <p>The issue occurring here is similar to a question asked <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/899/why-is-my-print-displacing-along-the-y-axis-by-2-3-cm/901#901">over here</a>. It looks as though this is a result of a hardware fault related to the stepper drivers. @DarthPixel recommended placing hea... |
1399 | 2016-06-21T19:54:41.557 | <p>I've been printing small quantities from a PLA filament spool on a Craftbot printer for about two months now. Recently the printed objects have been coming out very brittle. Some structures that printed fine two months ago are now difficult to re-print. The print head gets clogged easily, and when the object does... | Any fix for PLA prints getting more brittle over time? | |filament|pla|print-quality|filament-quality| | <p>Increase nozzle temperature. When the filament is new it will print easier, requiring less heat to print well. So if you didn't store your filament properly to begin with, increasing print temperature will make it jam less and increase layer bonding. </p>
<p>The reason for this is because the moisture that accumula... |
1403 | 2016-06-22T10:39:23.163 | <p>So I have a self build Mendel Reprap style 3d printer.</p>
<p>I've not used it in sometime after moving house but I'm looking to use it again. What should I pay attention to before calibrating and running it again?</p>
| What should I pay attention to after taking a 3d printer from extended storage | |maintenance| | <p>After storage you can check the following things before taking the machine into operation again:</p>
<ul>
<li>Are all cables intact? You wouldn't want lose cables shorting your circuits, nor cables that may have become brittle or loose to break the circuitry during operation.</li>
<li>Wipe off dust of the axes. Dep... |
1404 | 2016-06-22T12:35:46.923 | <p>Inspired by another question and due to the fact that some of my filament will face the same problem when I will use them again, I wanted to know if there are proven recipies to get rid of water that has ben incorporated to PLA filament from humidity? One knows the filament had too much exposure to humidity when hea... | Can aged PLA be refurbished? | |filament|pla|repair| | <p>I have turned unusable PLA into filament that printed well by putting it in a dry oven for a couple of hours. I've used 90 degrees C (194 degrees F), which may be too hot as it distorts round filament to be flat sided as the filament softens and relieves stresses. It printed well. Perhaps 70 degrees C (158 degree... |
1410 | 2016-06-23T04:24:21.237 | <p>I have a 3D Printer with 0.4 mm (400 micron) nozzle length and the printer guide suggests that it can print up to a layer thickness of 60 micron and has a accuracy up to 100 micron. </p>
<p>What I'm trying to understand is that, how does the 0.4 mm nozzle output a filament size lesser than it? How does th... | How does the sizes of nozzle diameter and the Z-axis layer resolution work? | |layer-height| | <p>Yes, they do reduce the speed. Basically, the speed at which you feed filament determines how large of a volume comes out, and the distance you move the extruder means this volume gets distributed over this distance. However, this is not the whole story.</p>
<p>The size of your nozzle determines only two things: th... |
1442 | 2016-06-28T17:06:18.597 | <p>I created a new project in Materialise Magics, added a few parts (different STLs), moved them around in certain positions and now I want to export this project into another STL, containing my recent work.</p>
<p>The export menu seems to be all grey, like this function is not available. Do I have to do some repairin... | How can I export a Materialise Magics Project as a STL file? | |3d-models|file-formats|materialise-magics| | <p>I gather from your post that you are trying to export a build file containing multiple individual pieces, possibly to be printed. I suggest using the 'Merge' tool to join each of the individual STL's into one file. You can then save it as as single part or export it to a printer. This information comes from my exper... |
1460 | 2016-06-30T16:38:23.227 | <p>I homebuilt a delta 3D printer (like Kossel mini) with a Z probe near the hotend with manual deploy and RAMPS 1.4 board:</p>
<ul>
<li>I configured the Repetier firmware with the online tool;</li>
<li>All my endstops (included the Z probe endstop) work in reverse mode, so I reversed the endstops triggering option;</... | Bed leveling method not working with Repetier firmware 0.92.9? | |delta|repetier|kossel|z-probe|repetier-host| | <p>As a guess, you are using the wrong command. If set for n x n grid, you get 3 point measurement with G29, but that is not auto leveling, it is just setting Z height - based on average height at 3 points.</p>
<p>What you need is <code>G32 S2</code> with <code>S2</code> to store result in EEPROM (and therefore you sh... |
1465 | 2016-07-01T10:11:45.450 | <p><strong>Before the question, here is my setup;</strong> </p>
<ul>
<li>Prusa i3 (with mainboard Mks Gen v1.2)</li>
<li>Repetier as slicer</li>
<li>Marlin source code </li>
</ul>
<p>My main task is to convert my 3D printer into a chocolate printer.
I have replaced the filament extruder with a chocolate extruder. An... | How to set a new homing position using software and/or slicer without changing hardware end-stop? | |firmware|chocolate|homing| | <p>Now I've finally had time to look into this, since I knew it somehow existed, but wasn't sure how it worked:</p>
<p>Use the M206 G-code command in Marlin, Sprinter, Smoothie, or RepRap Firmware to offset the 0,0,0 coordinate of your printbed relative to the endstops.</p>
<p>The reprap.org wiki page says:</p>
<blo... |
1468 | 2016-07-02T07:41:12.473 | <p>Is a 100 micron layer thickness object stronger than 300 micron layer thickness 3D printed object? Are there any rules to follow? </p>
<p>Filament type - PLA</p>
| Does the layer thickness have any effect of the strength of the 3D printed object? | |pla|print-strength| | <p>3D Matter has published an <a href="http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/">excellent article on the subject</a>. They find that thicker layers result in a stronger part, with 0.3mm layers giving a part that is around 24% stronger than the same part printed with 0.1mm layers.</p>
<p>One small ... |
1474 | 2016-07-04T03:51:53.017 | <p>I get nothing but black bars and "Unknown USB Device" from Windows 10. This is after a failed flash that was otherwise going directly according to plan.</p>
<p>This Davinci has been nothing but frustration for me, and I'm really tired of fruitless Google-Fu.</p>
<p>Much of what I see pretty much says it's bricked... | Trying to flash Davinci XYZ 1.0, nothing but black bars | |repetier| | <p>I had this occur on my <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/588/is-it-possible-to-use-an-aftermarket-controller-on-a-makerbot">MakerBot Replicator Dual after I tried repairing a blown voltage regulator</a>. If you refer to the previous link to my SE question, pay attention to the comments of Ryan'... |
1477 | 2016-07-04T21:53:18.823 | <p>I would like to obtain a 3D model of my insoles. I tried to scan it with 123D catch but finding reference points is difficult because the insole is black.</p>
<p>How could I improve the scanning? I attach a photo of the insole to show its not easy shape.</p>
<p>I thought about placing a grid of white spots on the ... | How to optimally make a 3D model of an object using photos? | |scanning| | <p>I don't have enough reputation to comment. </p>
<p>This is a short pointer to another webpage: <a href="https://www.sculpteo.com/blog/2016/01/20/turning-a-picture-into-a-3d-model/" rel="nofollow">https://www.sculpteo.com/blog/2016/01/20/turning-a-picture-into-a-3d-model/</a><br>
It may be helpful. </p>
|
1478 | 2016-07-04T22:48:21.577 | <p>I have <a href="http://www.sainsmart.com/sainsmart-mechanical-endstop-for-cnc-3d-printer-reprap-makerbot-prusa-mendel-ramps.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops</a>, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework.</p>
<p>I've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the... | Connecting Sain Smart Mechanical End Stops to Ramps 1.4? | |ramps-1.4|prusa-i3-rework|marlin|firmware|endstop| | <p>The multiple connections are redundant. Your picture indicates the wires labelled as "SIGNAL, GND, GND, VCC". This is correct if the board is a "standard" mechanical endstop v1.2. The two middle pins are both ground, but you only need to use one of them.</p>
<p>You can simply connect signal to signal and ground to ... |
1480 | 2016-07-04T23:50:08.490 | <p>I've been looking into this, but:</p>
<ol>
<li>I'm not certain how to configure my multimeter; </li>
<li>I don't know how to keep the voltage going, and;</li>
<li>I don't know how to keep the multimeter connected to the VMOT?</li>
</ol>
<p>I'm told you're supposed to aim for about 1 A.</p>
| How do you make sure you have the right voltage on the trimpots on an A4988 stepper driver? | |prusa-i3-rework|multi-meter|stepper-driver| | <p>I want to add some points and clarifications to the answer that @darthpixel already has given. Most information you need is in there, I want to give some more practical advice, since that is what I understand you're question is asking for. I'll start with some points on the more theoretical side, though:</p>
<ul>
<l... |
1503 | 2016-07-12T08:08:41.043 | <p>At the moment, I am thinking about print fans that cool the plastic when printing. I am not asking about the design of the fanducts, which might be a whole book on its own. I would like to know how to find out the best application of print cooling for a given PLA filament, - that is fan speeds and setup in a slicer ... | How to utilize/calibrate print fans for PLA? | |print-quality|heat-management|print-fan| | <p>I use PLA and both my fans stopped working. I am not techy and couldn't figure out how to fix them so I set up a house fan that blew directly at the motor keeping it cool and it works as good if not better than the fans that came with the 3d printer. You cannot let your motors over heat because your filament will ge... |
1505 | 2016-07-12T10:31:05.890 | <p>I am using a BAUDrate of 115200 since I cannot make a connection to my printer with the advised 250000 rate. Are there any downsides or limits I reach earlier given by the lower BAUDrate?</p>
| What is the influence of a lower BAUDrate? | |electronics| | <p>If a GCODE line is about 30 characters (which is about the norm), you can send at most 420 of them per second at 115200 bps.</p>
<p>If each GCODE prints 0.15 mm (for example in arcs), you would be limited to 63 mm/s in arcs/circles (straight lines are not an issue).</p>
<p>If that's limiting for you, then you should... |
1511 | 2016-07-15T19:49:40.867 | <p>I tried printing from an STL file on the <em>QIDI TECHNOLOGY 3DP-QDA16-01 Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer QIDI TECH I</em>. They recommend using the MakerBot software with the <em>Replicator(Dual)</em> profile. The 3D print that I tried is messed up.</p>
<p>The material used is <strong>PLA</strong>.</p>
<p>Could ... | Irregular 3D printed part | |pla|print-quality|makerbot|makerware| | <p>I agree with <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1511/irregular-3d-printed-part/1513#1513">RyanCarlyle</a> on this:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Your print isn't cooling fast enough.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Please regard <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/540/mushy-small-top-layers/5... |
1519 | 2016-07-17T20:26:44.100 | <p>My first and only 3D printer is a Printrbot Simple Metal, which has a hotend that doesn't expose any of its internal parts. Easy for beginners, I suppose: "The hotend is that tube that heats up the plastic and deposits it on the print bed."</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7y1yy.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img ... | What are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do? | |hotend| | <p>This varies by hotend design. The following is a list of components which you might find in a typical hotend, but note that different designs may integrate these components to some extent. For instance, on the J-head the heat block, nozzle and heatbreak are all one and the same component whereas on the E3D hotends t... |
1520 | 2016-07-18T02:43:22.077 | <p>I have a Monoprice Maker Select, which is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2 (Prusa clone). I've found that the heated bed temperature values on the LCD are incorrect. The heater works, and the controller maintains the bed temp just fine, but the temperature reported isn't the true temperature. When using the PL... | Adjusting Bed Temp values on Monoprice/Wanhao I3 (Repetier Firmware) | |prusa-i3|heated-bed|repetier| | <p>It is completely normal for the surface of the bed to be cooler than the indicated temperature. The thermistor goes on the underside of the bed, near the heating traces. The top of the bed (which is further away from the heating traces) will naturally be cooler.</p>
<p>It would be possible, though a lot of work, to... |
1526 | 2016-07-19T13:45:51.487 | <p>Can anyone tell me where to connect a cooling fan on the Sanguinololu v1.3a board? A few of the information pages mention three PWM outputs: Extruder, bed heater and fan, but none of the wiring diagrams that I can find, actually show the connections for the fan.</p>
| Sanguinololu 1.3a fan connection | |cooling|fans| | <p>It appears that there isn't an "out-of-the-box" solution to your request, but luck is with you. Someone with your board and objective has posted what appears to be a reasonable modification:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Add-a-Cooling-Fan-to-your-Rep-Rap-Sanguinololu/" rel="nofollow">http://www.in... |
1535 | 2016-07-21T17:22:27.533 | <p>The $200 Monoprice Select is inexpensive but also cheap, so experiences I've seen appear to involve lots of repairs. In spite of that, I've bought one, as I'm able to fix things (sometimes) and the first few prints have been pretty good quality. ( I hear this unit is also sold as a Wanhao I3 )</p>
<p>First repair... | Monoprice Select Mini - Detached Filament Feeder fitting | |monoprice-select-mini|repair| | <p>Solution - there is a set-screw and a square nut in that T-slot which holds the feeder fitting in place on the heat sink. </p>
<p>One may well think (as I did) that the fitting is threaded into the heatsink, since it does have a big hex-head for a wrench. A small turn an the set screw lets go, the nut sliding down ... |
1546 | 2016-07-23T02:32:45.660 | <p>I would like to use my old Xbox 360 Kinect as a scanner for 3D modeling and (hopefully) printing a few busts of friends/family members; however, my efforts have failed in each direction that I have taken. Has anyone had success with this, and if so, how do I fix the issues that I am facing?</p>
<p>What I have done... | Using Kinect 360 as 3D Scanner | |3d-models|scanning| | <p>I tried the same setting old kinect (but for PC - actually with power supply and usb-cable) plug to my surface windows10.</p>
<p>After some troubles, it works now ;-)</p>
<p>The mentioned MS 3D scan and kinect readiness wont work. It is supposed for the new kinect2 model, because of the new driver. Best you deinst... |
1555 | 2016-07-24T21:40:34.267 | <p>I want to access the bed and nozzle temperature sensor data of a 3D printer via serial connection. Could someone please guide me in the right direction?</p>
<p>Edit: Response from printer:</p>
<pre><code>Connecting to printer...
Connection response from printer:
6R7�P)��h>L�JO� � ��V�\��`�r��T �� SK�<ʪ� �>�... | Access Temperature sensor data of 3D printer via Serial connection | |extruder|heated-bed|nozzle| | <p>Assuming your printer accepts conventional G-code flavor, extruder and bed temperature can be retrieved by sending <code>M105</code> through the serial port. The printer will respond with <code>ok T:XXX.X B:XXX.X</code> where <code>T</code> is the nozzle temperature and <code>B</code> is the bed temperature.</p>
<p... |
1559 | 2016-07-26T11:56:13.410 | <p>A 3D printer can either print layer by layer or carve an object layer by layer to obtain an object. I heard somewhere that 3D printing technology isn't that accurate for printing minute details like fingerprints and iris patterns. Printing an iris pattern using a 3D printer would be a nice test to find this out. Can... | Are 3D printers efficient for printing a detailed iris to bypass iris identification system? | |efficiency| | <p>I take lectures in university and was asked to read a review paper on 3D printed organs by <em>Anthony Atala</em> (the most famous paper in printed organs research). The paper discussed about using several techniques to print the tissue we need at functional resolution. The review also cites detailed procedures to 3... |
1560 | 2016-07-26T17:40:49.773 | <p>There was a contest to develop 3D printable files for the International Space Station's 3D printer. The winner got a 3D printer ... runners up got Fluke DVOM's and all entrants got a t-shirt.</p>
<p>ISS 3D Print Contest</p>
<p>They offer 3 materials: ABS, HDPE, and PEI+PC ... I'm not familiar with the last one. ... | What is PEI+PC 3D Print material? ISS 3D Print Contest | |abs|hdpe| | <p>Ultem 9085, the most common ultem resin used for AM, is a blend of PEI-PC, as seen here <a href="https://www.sabic-ip.com/gepapp/Plastics/servlet/ProductsAndServices/Product/series?sltPrdline=ULTEM&sltPrdseries=Aerospace%20and%20Transportation&search=Search#searchresults" rel="nofollow">https://www.sabic-ip.... |
1562 | 2016-07-26T20:08:08.337 | <p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/298/ryan-carlyle">Ryan Carlyle</a> seems to keep suggesting in my questions here, that using a 24 V power supply is safer than using a 12 V one. </p>
<p>Early on, I ordered the wrong power supply, obtaining a 24 V one instead of a 12 V; I foun... | Do I have to buy all new components if I were to get a RAMPS 1.4 that supports 24 V power? | |switching-power-supply|vitamins| | <p>You need all components that are supplied voltage by the RAMPS board to be able to deal with a 24V input. Some of your parts are most likely compatible, as the stepper drivers. Others get the 5V from the Arduino, as the endstops. Some will most likely need replacement, as</p>
<ul>
<li>the Hotend heater cartridge. I... |
1577 | 2016-07-31T16:15:33.237 | <p>I have a prusa i3 and have been trying to calibrate it. I have been trying to upload the new steps per mm and I get to done uploading. However when I go into Repetier host and type M503 to get the printers settings it still shows the steps as 100 for the y axis, it needs to be 96.1810. I am using ramps 1.4 I think, ... | Uploading Repetier firmware to Arduino? | |prusa-i3|firmware|arduino-mega-2650| | <p>If your firmware doesn't store values you modified after flashing, for example using Repetier's option "Firmware EEPROM configuration", you probably didn't define EEPROM setting in Marlin. </p>
<p>To do this you have to uncomment the option in Marlin's Configuration.h:</p>
<pre><code>// EEPROM
// The microcontroll... |
1579 | 2016-07-31T19:53:18.623 | <p>I cloned the Marlin repository and changed all my settings in <code>configuration.h</code> to match my old settings. Now when the RC branch gets updated, is there a way to upstream pull the changes without losing my settings?</p>
| Cloning the Marlin git repo while keeping my configuration.h settings? | |marlin|reprap| | <p>Based on <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/a/19216491/1417624">this</a> answer, you need the following procedure:</p>
<ol>
<li>Stash your local changes using <code>git stash</code></li>
<li>Pull from remote repository using <code>git pull</code></li>
<li>Merge your stashed configuration file using <code>git stash ... |
1581 | 2016-08-02T17:30:44.143 | <p>I use a Micro3D printer, running on OctoPi (yay!) (although this question should be relevant to any 3D printer that offers these features) and have options for raft and wave bonding. </p>
<p>Are there best case scenarios for when it is appropriate to use (or <em>not</em> use) either? Can/should they ever both be u... | When to use Wave Bonding vs Raft on a 3D print? | |rafts| | <p>After additional research, it seems that using both at the same time is ill-advised (more like pointless).</p>
<p>Wave bonding is best suited for larger prints, primarily to prevent warping of the initial layer.</p>
<p>Rafts appear to be recommended regardless, other than for advanced users.</p>
|
1582 | 2016-08-02T18:15:54.343 | <p>I often have trouble with prints being especially difficult to remove from the build plate on my Micro3D printer. My wife suggested using a hair dryer on the underside of the plate. I was initially appalled at the idea, but now I think she may be on to something. Is this safe? Good idea? Bad idea? Heresay?</p>
| Is using a hair dryer on my M3D build plate safe? | |build-plate| | <p>cold wind can help to acceleratory cool down and dry the build plates to make it easy to part them.</p>
|
1588 | 2016-08-03T21:47:25.763 | <p>I just received my Wanhao Duplicator i3 PLUS. Everything prints and functions fine via SD card and the display but when connecting to my Mac computer the printer seems to restart.</p>
<ul>
<li>Baud Rate: 115200</li>
<li>Serial Port: <code>/dev/tty.wchusbserial1420</code></li>
</ul>
<p>Any ideas what it could be?</... | Wanhao i3 PLUS restarts when connecting USB | |arduino-mega-2650|wanhao| | <p>That is normal on most printers. They restart if you connect.</p>
<p>As you have an SD card slot I would recommend using it rather than your computer. If your connected computer goes to sleep it would also reset the connection after wakeup.</p>
|
2593 | 2016-08-04T15:17:32.630 | <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fpc5P.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fpc5P.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>By what process does the Prusa i3 determine it's home position? </p>
<p>I have a feeling that it works like this, but I'm not entirely sure about it:</p>
<o... | How does the home position work on a Prusa i3 RepRap Printer? | |prusa-i3|reprap| | <p>You have the endstop which sends a on or off to the controller board.</p>
<p>The boards firmware knows if it is a close or open switch.</p>
<p>Lets assume pressed is on and unpressed is off.</p>
<p>When the axis is at home it will read as ON. The firmware then will not allow the axis to move in the direction you ... |
2607 | 2016-08-06T23:15:36.037 | <p>I own a delta 3D printer. The problem is that, at the beginning of a print the extruder outputs dirty filament. I want a clean filament flow at the start of my prints!</p>
<p>How can I make the hotend exit the print surface (glass plate) by 10mm, extrude the bad filament and go back to printing again? Can this be d... | Clean or wipe move for delta 3D printers | |print-quality|marlin|delta| | <p>Slic3r, and all other slicers that I saw, have an option called <code>Skirt</code> that enables your printer to print a number of lines around your object before it starts printing the object itself.</p>
<p>This should ensure that both the nozzle is filled with filament and the printer got rid of any burned / dirty... |
2608 | 2016-08-07T02:49:14.600 | <p>Are there any 3D printing filaments or specially designed desktop systems which can print soft <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artificial_skin" rel="nofollow">artificial skin</a> for human-robot? For example made of soft silicone or something similar?</p>
| Possible ways to print soft skin for human robot? | |filament| | <p>Oh that is a tricky tricky question!</p>
<p>First you will probably need a good scan of the robot. You will have the cad of the robot but chances are scanning will make life easier.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.3ders.org/articles/20151201-kinect-easy-3d-printing-tool-with-release-of-3d-scan-app-for-windows.html" rel... |
2615 | 2016-08-07T23:54:39.570 | <p>I am new to 3D printing and I am assembling/calibrating an Ultimaker Original+ for my college.</p>
<p>I am done with all the assembling and the printer works fine except for one thing.</p>
<p>The print bed moves way up. It touches the extruder and pushes it upwards. So, the extruder cannot extrude any material.</p... | Print bed moves way up for printing | |z-axis|ultimaker-original| | <p>It is normal for an Ultimaker print bed to move up. But it should be stopped before the nozzle.</p>
<p>As it doesn't stop the end stop doesn't work. So either the end stop is not connected to the right connector or it is triggering too late.</p>
<p>The Z end stop must be screwed at the right hight. If you mount it... |
2619 | 2016-08-09T04:55:36.843 | <p><strong>Background</strong>:</p>
<p>I just successfully installed a RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Display on my Prusa i3; and in doing so, I've upgraded all of the firmware to the latest version of Marlin, 1.1.0-RC7. With my previous version of Marlin, 1.0.2-1, everything was working perfectly. I've transferred every... | Z Axis getting stuck with Marlin 1.1.0-RC7 | |prusa-i3|marlin|firmware|z-axis| | <p>The problem is likely in the MAX_FEEDRATE. Initially the moves are smooth, indicating that acceleration is not a problem. However, you have your maximum speed set to 5mm/s, which, for m5 threaded rod (with 0.5mm pitch), translates to 10 revolusions/second for the threaded rod. That is quite fast, and the stepper pro... |
2621 | 2016-08-09T15:33:03.320 | <p>Related to an issue I had in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1205/increased-issues-with-filament-grinding">this question</a>, where the PTFE tube feeding my filament to the metal tip of the extruder clogged and became discolored: what are the advantages and disadvantages of changing out my ex... | What are the advantages and disadvantages of an all-metal hot end compared to one with a PTFE heat break? | |extruder|fdm|hotend| | <p>My Tevo Tarantula had an all metal hotend included and I never ran into any issues only printing PLA and PETG, most of the time I was even able to pull out the filament while the printer was cold.</p>
<p>After I upgraded to an E3Dv6 clone with PTFE lined heatbreak I started to have issues because of the filament ge... |
2629 | 2016-08-11T10:27:03.247 | <p>I'm currently using FSL3d's RetinaCreate to prepare 3d-files for printing for research purposes. In this, I am relying on their <a href="http://wiki.fsl3d.com/Part_3_-_Using_the_RetinaCreate_Software_to_Print#Find_Optimal_Rotation" rel="noreferrer">Optimal Rotation</a> feature which rotates the object by, as far as ... | RetinaCreate Optimal Rotation | |3d-models|software|rapid-prototyping| | <p>Optimal rotation can be considered from different perspectives. For example</p>
<ul>
<li>as little support as possible. This way app tries to orient object so as much surface as possible doesn't overhang and doesn't need support</li>
<li>bed only support. App tries to orient object so all overhanging parts can be s... |
2637 | 2016-08-12T06:42:27.340 | <p>When using a heated bed with your printer, I have seen claims of running temperatures of 90c throughout the print.</p>
<p>That seems like a fairly high power use to keep a large slab of, say, aluminium at 90c for long print times (ie multiple hours).</p>
<p>Is there a common 'sweet spot' for operating temperature?... | Heated bed - what are the benefits? Why use one? | |heated-bed| | <p>Heatbeds have two purposes:</p>
<ol>
<li>Increase surface energy of the print bed to improve bonding strength of the first layer (particularly important when using surfaces like PEI or Kapton)</li>
<li>Keep the bottom few millimeters of the print hot enough to provide a warp-free foundation for the rest of the prin... |
2654 | 2016-08-18T04:34:05.640 | <p>I have a object to print for which I want the base to be printed very rapidly because it's just a cube but as the print reached around 70 % a complex circular structure needs to be printed at a slower speed. Is there any way I could control the speed at the given percentage of job done?</p>
<p>I want the cube to be ... | How to 3D print an object with variable printing speed? | |fdm|speed| | <p>Cura has a plugin called "Tweak at Z" that lets you change the speed at a specific layer/height, I used it when printing an object that's basically a curved box for 100 mm and then has tiny features in the last 10 mm and it worked very well.</p>
|
2658 | 2016-08-19T09:09:26.570 | <p>I'm currently attempting to make a repstrap using paper printed parts, like this guy : <a href="http://www.mariolukas.de/2012/05/repstrap-3d-drucker-aus-computerschrott-teil-1/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.mariolukas.de/2012/05/repstrap-3d-drucker-aus-computerschrott-teil-1/</a>
I replaced the DC motor in ... | Belt driven axis question | |reprap|belt| | <p>A rotation of the stepper motor 90 degrees clockwise or counter-clockwise would move it more to the center. You would only need lengthen or shorten the belt.</p>
|
2665 | 2016-08-21T14:31:02.263 | <p>My goal is to 3D print a 5 liter miniature barrel with a side stand, similar to <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009K5DSJG" rel="noreferrer">this wooden one on Amazon</a>. I want it to have a removable top so that a boxed wine bladder may be put inside, and there should be a hole on the top as well... | What is the best 3D modeling software for a beginner on a 3D printed mini barrel project? | |3d-design|software|blender| | <p>If you have any programming background at all, consider OpenScad. It is a functional type of programming language that lets you do a lot of things quite easily without art skills. OpenScad skills are useful for building customizable things on Thingiverse.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.openscad.org/" rel="nofollow nor... |
2667 | 2016-08-22T13:51:44.837 | <p>Metal powders are the fastest-growing segment within the 3D printing materials market, and 3D printing with metal offers a range of highly-sought out characteristics, including immense strength, reduced weight, biocompatibility and corrosion or thermal resistance, making it ideal for high-demand industries such as a... | Why can't powder-based 3D printing techniques create enclosed or hollow structures? | |print-material|printing-powder|metal-printing| | <p>It's not hollow <em>or</em> enclosed structures that are a problem. It's structures that are hollow <em>and</em> enclosed. Think about it. The machine lays down a thin layer of powder, and then a laser fuses some of that powder together to make a shape. Then, it repeats the process for the next layer. If you try to ... |
2670 | 2016-08-23T05:58:00.500 | <p>This came up in one of my groups today. That we could not color bend, or mix 3d printing filaments. I have researched but I am not finding anything talking about Plastic mixing in an extruder.</p>
<p>Why is it that we cannot take say a Diamond hotend, or a hotend with 5+ inputs, and mix any color we want? (assuming... | What is stopping us from mixing 3D filament colors in an Extruder? | |filament|hotend|color| | <p>If you clearly observe the geometry of the print it has printed in different colours .the part is designed in such a way that it has the small height gap between the each colour but we cannot seen this gap in one projection plane..
We can print only in direct drive extrusion .by changing the filament of different co... |
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.