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now we can all relate to this in our own experience we 're much more likely to do things like yell at our spouse or kids when we 're stressed out or tired even though we know it 's not going to be helpful we just can 't help
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<unk> when the prefrontal cortex goes offline <unk> we fall back into our old habits <unk> which is why this disenchantment is so important <unk>
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seeing what we get from our habits helps us understand them at a deeper level
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to know it in our bones so we don 't have to force ourselves to hold back or restrain ourselves from behavior <unk> we 're just less interested in doing it in the first place <unk>
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and this is what mindfulness is all about <unk> seeing really clearly what we get when we get caught up in our behaviors <unk> becoming disenchanted
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on a visceral level
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and from this disenchanted stance naturally letting go
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this isn 't to say that poof magically we quit smoking <unk> but over time as we learn to see more and more clearly the results of our actions we let go of old habits and form new ones
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the paradox here is that mindfulness is just about being really interested in getting close and personal with what 's actually happening in our bodies and minds
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<unk> from moment to moment this willingness to turn toward our experience rather than trying to make unpleasant cravings go away as quickly as possible
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and this willingness to turn toward our experience
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is supported by curiosity <unk> which is naturally rewarding what does curiosity feel like it feels good <unk> and what happens when we
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<unk> we start to notice that cravings are simply made up of body sensations oh <unk> there 's tightness <unk> there 's tension <unk> there 's restlessness
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and that these body sensations come and go these are bite size pieces of experiences
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that we can manage from moment to moment rather than getting clobbered by this huge scary craving that we choke on
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in other words when we get curious <unk> we step out of our old
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fear based reactive habit patterns and
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<unk> step into being we become this inner scientist where we 're eagerly awaiting that next data point <unk> now <unk>
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this might sound too simplistic to affect behavior <unk> but in one study we found that mindfulness training was twice as good as gold standard therapy at helping people quit smoking
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<unk> so it actually
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<unk> and when we studied the brains of experienced meditators <unk> we found that parts of a neural network of self referential processing called the default mode network were at play
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now one current hypothesis is that a region of this network called the posterior cingulate cortex
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is activated not necessarily by craving itself but when we get caught up in it when we get sucked in and it takes us for a ride
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in contrast when we let go step out of the process just by being curiously aware of what 's happening this
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<unk> brain region quiets down
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now we 're testing app and online based mindfulness training programs that target these core mechanisms and ironically use the same technology <unk>
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<unk> that 's driving us to distraction to help us step out of our unhealthy habit patterns of smoking of stress eating and other
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<unk> remember that bit about context dependent memory we can deliver these tools to peoples ' fingertips in the contexts that matter most so we can help them tap into their inherent capacity <unk>
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to be curiously aware right when that urge to smoke or stress eat or whatever arises
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from work or maybe to compulsively respond to that text message when you 're driving
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see if you can tap into this natural capacity just be curiously aware of what 's happening in your body and mind in that moment it will just be another chance to perpetuate one of our endless and exhaustive habit loops
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or step out of it
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instead of see text message compulsively text back feel a little bit better
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notice the urge get curious <unk> feel the joy of letting go and repeat
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<unk> i heard this amazing story about miuccia prada she 's an italian fashion designer she goes to this vintage store in paris with a friend of hers <unk> she 's rooting around she finds this one jacket by balenciaga
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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she loves it she 's turning it inside out
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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<unk> she 's looking at the construction her friend says buy it already she said i 'll buy it but i 'm also going to replicate it
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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now the academics in this audience may think well that sounds like plagiarism
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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but to a fashionista what it really is is a sign of prada 's genius that she can root through the history of fashion and pick the one jacket that doesn 't need to be changed by one iota and to be
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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<unk> current and to be now <unk> you might also be asking whether it 's possible
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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that this is illegal for her to do this well
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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it turns out that it 's actually not illegal in the fashion industry there 's very little intellectual property protection <unk>
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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they have trademark protection <unk> but no copyright protection and no patent protection to speak of all they have really is trademark
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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<unk> protection and so it means that anybody could copy any garment on any person in this room
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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and sell it as their own design <unk> the only thing that they can 't copy is the actual trademark label within that piece of apparel
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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that 's one reason that you see logos splattered all over these products it 's because it 's a lot harder for knock off artists to knock off these designs because they can 't knock off the logo
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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if you go to santee alley yeah well yeah
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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canal street i know <unk> and sometimes these are fun right
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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now the reason for this the reason that the fashion industry doesn 't have any copyright protection is because the courts decided long ago
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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that apparel is too utilitarian to qualify
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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for copyright protection <unk> they didn 't want a handful of designers owning the seminal building blocks of our clothing and then everybody else would have to license this cuff or this sleeve because joe blow owns it
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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but too utilitarian i mean is that the way you think of fashion this is vivienne westwood no we think of it as maybe too silly too unnecessary <unk>
JohannaBlakley_2010X
-1no label
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now those of you who are familiar with the logic
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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<unk> logic behind copyright protection which is that without ownership there is no incentive to innovate
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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might be really surprised by both the critical success of the fashion industry and the economic success of this industry <unk>
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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what i 'm going to argue today is that because there 's no copyright protection in the fashion industry fashion designers have actually been able to elevate utilitarian design things to cover our
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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<unk> into something that we consider art because there 's no copyright protection in this industry <unk>
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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there 's a very open and creative ecology of creativity
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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unlike their creative brothers and sisters who are sculptors or photographers or filmmakers or musicians
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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fashion designers can sample from all their peers ' designs they can take any element from any garment from the history of fashion and incorporate it into their own design <unk>
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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they 're also
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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<unk> notorious for riffing off of the zeitgeist and here i suspect <unk>
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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they were influenced by the costumes in avatar <unk> maybe just a little can 't copyright a costume either <unk>
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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now fashion designers have the broadest palette imaginable in this creative industry this wedding dress here is actually made of sporks
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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<unk> and this dress is actually made of aluminum <unk> i 've heard this dress actually sort of sounds like wind chimes as they walk through <unk>
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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so one of the magical side effects of having a culture of copying which is really what it is
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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is the establishment of trends people think this is a magical thing how does it happen well it 's because it 's legal for people to copy one another <unk>
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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some people believe that there are a few people at the top of the fashion food chain who sort of dictate to us what we 're all going to wear
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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<unk> but if you talk to any designer at any level including these high end designers they always say their main inspiration comes from the street where people like you and me remix and match our own fashion looks <unk>
JohannaBlakley_2010X
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and that 's where they really get a lot of their creative inspiration so it 's both a top down and a bottom up kind of industry <unk>
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now the fast fashion giants have probably benefited the most
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<unk> from the lack of copyright protection in the fashion industry <unk> they are notorious for knocking off high end designs and selling them at very low prices <unk>
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and they 've been faced with a lot of lawsuits
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but those lawsuits are usually not won by fashion designers the courts have said over and over again you don 't need any more intellectual property protection
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when you look at
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<unk> you wonder how do the luxury high end brands remain in business if you can get it for two hundred bucks why pay a thousand <unk>
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well that 's one reason we had a conference here at usc a few years ago we invited tom ford to come the conference was called ready to share
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fashion and the ownership of creativity and we asked him exactly this question here 's what he had to say <unk> he had just come off a successful stint as the lead
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<unk> we found after much research that actually not much research <unk> quite simple research that the counterfeit customer was not our customer johanna blakley
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imagine that the people on santee alley are not the ones who shop at gucci
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<unk> at least in terms of the materials they 're always made of cheaper materials but even sometimes a cheaper version can actually have some
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charming aspects can breathe a little extra life into a dying trend there 's lots of virtues of copying
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one that a lot of cultural critics have pointed to is that we now have a much broader
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<unk> of design choices to choose from than we ever have before and this is mainly because of the fast fashion industry actually <unk>
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and this is a good thing <unk> we need lots of options <unk> fashion whether you like it or not helps you project who you are to the world
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because of fast fashion global trends actually get established much more quickly than they used to and this actually is good news to trendsetters <unk> they want trends to be set so that they can move product
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for fashionistas
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<unk> they want to stay ahead of the curve they don 't want to be wearing what everybody else is wearing <unk> and so <unk> they want to move on to the next trend as soon as possible <unk>
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i tell you there is no rest for the fashionable <unk>
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every season these designers have to struggle to come up with the new fabulous idea that everybody 's going to love <unk> and this let me tell you is very good for the bottom line
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now of course there 's a bunch of effects
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that this culture of copying has on the creative process and
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stuart weitzman is a very successful shoe designer he has complained a lot about people copying him
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but in one interview i read <unk> he said it has really forced him to up his game <unk> he had to come up with new ideas new things that would be hard to copy he came up with this
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<unk> that has to be made out of steel or titanium if you make it from some sort of cheaper material <unk> it 'll actually crack in two it forced him to be a little more innovative
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and that actually reminded me of jazz great charlie parker i don
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't know if you 've heard this anecdote but i have
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he said that one of the reasons he invented bebop was that he was pretty sure that white musicians wouldn 't be able to replicate the
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<unk> he wanted to make it too difficult to copy
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and that 's what fashion designers are doing all the time they 're trying to put together a signature look an aesthetic that reflects who they are when people knock it off <unk>
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