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In our series of Best CPU guides, here's the latest update to our recommended Gaming CPUs list. All numbers in the text are updated to reflect pricing at the time of writing. Numbers in graphs reflect MSRP.
CPU Market Overview, Holiday 2023
As we stride through the holiday period, the tinsel, glitz, and fanfare of festivities are on their way. And the CPU market looks pretty solid as we round out the end of the year. Intel recently launched their latest 14th Gen Core family to the market, with the Core i9-14900K spearheading things with 6.0 GHz out of the box. While impressive on paper, there's AMD's Ryzen 7000 series to contend with, with competitiveness at the top end of the market scorching right now, and that's not a pun. Stock levels look good on processors at popular retailers such as Amazon and Newegg, and many motherboards/DDR5 memory are floating around to satisfy demand. The CPU market, on the whole, looks strong as we move into the final stages of 2023.
Looking at a wider and broader overview of the current CPU market, the top end is dominated by the new Intel Core i9-14900K (8P+16E/32T) and AMD's Ryzen 9 7950X (16C/32T). An honorable mention does need to be made regarding the Core i9-13900K (8P+16E/32T), which, although it hails from Intel's previous 13th Gen family, is nearly identical to the new 14900K bar a bump to core frequencies. All three of these processors are similarly matched in compute performance, whereas the only 'real' gain separating them is in AVX-512/AVX2 workloads, as AMD's Ryzen 7000 does support these instruction sets. Other than that, it's very competitive at the top.
Another notable processor, which is technically a flagship but is primarily aimed at gamers, is the Ryzen 9 7950X3D (16C/32T), which has 3D V-Cache packaging, giving the gamers 96 MB of L3 V-Cache on one CCD and 32 MB on the other. Another more value-orientated chip for gamers is the Ryzen 7 7800X3D, which has all the benefits in gaming that the Ryzen 9 7950X3D has but without the notoriously high price of the flagship.
The mid-range (Core i7/i5 and Ryzen 7/5) processors offer decent compute performance and are more than adequate for gaming when paired with a competent discrete graphics card. One major talking point is the latest Intel Core i7-14700K (8P+12E/28T), which is a marked upgrade over the previous Core i7-13700K (8P+8E/24T) and puts the 14th Gen Core i7 much closer to the i9 series than we've previously seen before. Given both the Core i7-14700K and Core i7-13700K share the same $409 MSRP (same price at launch), there's certainly some value to be found there.
When deciding which chip to use when upgrading or building a new system, users can find lots of value in Intel and AMD's previous generations (13th/12th Gen Core series and Ryzen 5000). These processors now offer unprecedented cost-effectiveness, and some of the previous generation's high-performing CPUs from these previous lineups can be paired with more affordable DDR4 memory, which has come down in price massively since DDR5 was launched. Additionally, both Intel and AMD have been aggressively reducing prices as they shift their focus toward promoting their latest cutting-edge technologies and architectural advancements. While Intel's 13th Gen pricing hasn't changed since the launch of 14th Gen, we expect these price cuts to come over the coming months as retailers look to offload their older stock.
Consequently, prospective buyers can take advantage of sporadic, continuously fluctuating, and decreasing prices. Among the noteworthy options is AMD's Ryzen 7 5800X3D, featuring 8 cores and 16 threads, along with the 3D packaged 96 MB of L3 cache. This CPU is particularly well-suited for games and applications optimized to leverage its unique 3D V-Cache in games that can support more L3 cache. With not much difference in performance between Intel's 14th and 13th Gen, this makes 12th Gen an even more attractive proposition in terms of value. Let's look at where the market is signalling, and we'll make our best picks for the 2023 Holiday period.
A short overview of the best sellers updates:
Looking at the best sellers list at Amazon (at the time of writing), the landscape has changed dramatically since our last guide. Over half of the top 10 best-sellers are new to the list since our September 23 guide, which represents a shift. Most notably, the gaming-centric AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D takes the #1 spot, up two places from #3. Perhaps one of the best buys for gamers, the Ryzen 7 7800X3D has 8 x Zen 4 cores with 96 MB of 3D L3 V-Cache, which, in games that can make use of large pools of L3 cache, makes the 7800X3D exceptional value at $397.
Coming in at #2 is a new entry into the top-10 list representing AMD's Zen 3-based Ryzen 5000 family, the Ryzen 5 5600X. At $159, it's a very value-orientated processor right now, with 6 x Zen 3 cores, and provides a solid balance of price versus performance. Even the #3 on the list is the next step up in CPUs, the Ryzen 7 5800X, which has 8 x Zen 3 cores and a price tag of $208, shows users looking for value over raw performance. At #3 is the Ryzen 7 5800X ($208), a mid-range 8C/16T chip with Zen 3 cores, at a very respectable price compared to pricing on 8-core chips of four or five years ago.
Another Zen 3-based chip from AMD coming in at #4 is the Ryzen 5 5600G (6C/12T), which is an APU with 7 Radeon graphics cores and provides an entry to gaming without the need for a discrete graphics card; this is $124 at Amazon right now and represents great value, so it's easy to see why it's currently in the top-10.
Digesting the Amazon best-selling processors, the top 10 looks like this:
Moving down the list to #5, we have one of three Intel CPUs in the top 10 of Amazon's top-selling CPUs. The Intel Core i7-13700K (8P+8E/24) represents Intel's 13th Gen family, which has subsequently been refreshed with Intel's 14th Gen Raptor Lake refresh. With a price tag of $378 at Amazon, there should be more value to Intel's latest Core i7-14700K with 4 more E-cores than its older sibling, although at $415 (MSRP is $409), this isn't the case at present. Intel's second entry onto the list is currently at #7, is the latest flagship, the Core i9-14900K ($579), and is the first mass-produced processor to hit 6 GHz clock speeds out of the box.
At #9 is the Intel Core i9-13900K ($547), which is essentially the Core i9-14900K with slightly slower core clock speeds, or visa versa, depending on how you look at it. Both have the same 8P+16E/32T configurations and while the 14900K is the faster and newer chip, there isn't much difference in performance between the two.
Pivoting back to #6, up from #10 from our September 23 buyers guide, the Ryzen 7 5700X has dropped to $184 (from $190) and looks to offer users even more value. The other AMD APU on the list is the slightly higher spec Ryzen 7 5700G ($175), which is $2 cheaper than the 5600G and has 2C/4T more with an additional Radeon graphics core.
At #8 is the Ryzen 7 5800X3D, with 96 MB of L3 3D stacked V-Cache and 8 x Zen 3 cores for $323. Even though it represents AMD's previous Zen 3 generation, it's a competitor in gaming performance to the Ryzen 7 7800X3D ($397), although the newer chip with Zen 4 cores does offer more compute grunt. The Ryzen 7 5800X might be a generation old, but it still offers exceptional value at $323, given how cheap AM4 and DDR4 memory is at present.
In a volatile global economic climate, people are typically spending less, but there is a wide variety of options available. With the price cuts on previous generations, such as Ryzen 5000 and Intel's 12th Gen Core series, it allows users to get the most out of their money. Finding that sweet spot between value and performance is seemingly more straightforward, but with most tech, the more performance you want, the more you'll have to pay. Interestingly, two of AMD's Ryzen 50000 series APUs make Amazon's top 10 sellers. They still offer unparalleled levels of performance with the added benefit of semi-decent integrated graphics for gamers on a strict budget, such as the Ryzen 5 5600G at $126, a 6C/12T processor with Radeon graphics.
Best CPUs for Gaming Holiday 2023
Sometimes choosing a CPU is hard. So we've got you covered. In our CPU Guides, we give you our pick of some of the best processors available, supplying data from our reviews.
AnandTech Gaming CPU Recommendations
Holiday 2023
(Prices as of time of writing) Segment Recommendation Amazon
($) The High-Performance Pick AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D (16C/32T)
Intel Core i9-13900K (8P+16E/32T) $637
$547 The Smart Money Pick (Price versus Performance) Intel Core i5-13600K (6P+8E/20T) $308 Gaming on a Budget AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D (8C/16T)
AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D (8C/16T) $397
$323
The majority of our recommendations aim to hit the performance/price curve just right, with a side nod to power consumption as well.
The High-Performance Pick
AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D (16-core, $637) - Stronger Gaming Performance
Intel Core i9-13900K (8+16-core, $547) - Stronger Compute Performance
Now, before we explain why we have gone with the picks we have, one obvious exclusion from these is the Intel Core i9-14900K. While the 14900K ($579) sits at the top as Intel's latest flagship, it's essentially a Core i9-13900K with a 6.0 GHz boost frequency. Outside of the bumps to core frequencies, it is the same chip, architecturally and from our review, in performance, too. We've opted for two picks in our high-performance pick, both for slightly different reasons, and we're giving a nod to both Intel and AMD for high-end gaming.
That is because both the Ryzen 9 7950X3D and the Core i9-13900K are fantastic representatives from both camps for gaming and non-gaming situations. It wins in gaming performance in titles that can use the additional L3 cache of the Ryzen 9 7950X3D. Still, in non-gaming scenarios, the latest Core i9-14900K and Core i9-13900K both play to the strengths of its hybrid architecture, giving them a total of 24-cores versus 16-cores on the AMD chip. In compute, the extra cores coupled with the high clock speeds shine, whereas both models are competent for gaming.
While the Ryzen 9 7950X3D is our top choice for gaming, the Intel Core i9-13900K presents itself as a compelling alternative. It boasts equivalent power in compute-intensive tasks and comes at a cheaper price of $537. If your budget and availability allow, the AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D, coupled with the AM5 platform and DDR5 memory, offers solid levels of all-around performance.
In the desktop processor market's upper echelons, four noteworthy options exist—two from AMD and two from Intel, each with unique strengths. Our current preference is the Intel Core i9-13900K, but there's also the Intel Core i9-13900KS, running at a remarkable 6 GHz and offering even faster clock speeds; all other specifications remain identical. Keeping the Core i9-13900KS cooled optimally so that it can hit 6 GHz in single-threaded applications can be difficult without equally premium cooling options, and with that in mind, we've decided against selecting it.
Focusing on the AMD side, you have the Ryzen 9 7950X and the Ryzen 9 7950X3D. Like their Intel counterparts, these chips share similar specifications, differing mainly in clock speeds and L3 cache. The Ryzen 9 7950X3D stands out with its 96 MB of 3D V-Cache on the CCD, optimized for gaming. This configuration transforms it into an 8-core, 16-thread powerhouse with a massive 96 MB of L3 cache when gaming, especially with Microsoft Game Mode enabled and the relevant AMD drivers installed. In gaming, the Ryzen 9 7950X3D with 96 MB of L3 3D V-Cache in favorable situations is the winner here, whereas the Ryzen 9 7950X has marginally more grunt in compute performance.
As we can see in our POV-Ray benchmark results, the Intel Core i9-14900K is at the top of the pile with slightly faster clocks, and while the Core i9-13900K is the next best in the list, the AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D was around 17% behind the Core i9-14900K which is still good. In tasks such as our V-Ray render, the Ryzen 9 7950X3D was marginally ahead of the Core i9-13900K by around 2%, and when rendering in Blender 3.3 in the long Barbershop test, the 7950X3D was ahead by about 23 seconds. Of course, both processors are more than capable of rendering and encoding, and overall, in our suite, the Core i9-13900K beats the Ryzen 7950X3D across the majority of our CPU test suite. However, still, the Ryzen 9 7950X was competitive with the 13900K in the more compute-heavy scenarios.
Regarding gaming performance, the AMD Ryzen 7950X3D has the advantage in titles that can leverage that additional L3 cache due to their implementation and execution of 3D V-Cache packaging. In other games that don't benefit from the large levels of L3 cache, things are much closer throughout most of the games. It's a very specific use case that AMD is capitalizing on. Still, as we've mentioned throughout much of our Ryzen X3D series coverage if the games you play don't utilize the L3 cache, then there's not much of a real-world benefit over the competition.
Outside of the aforementioned benefits of the 3D V-Cache, things are so competitive that it really boils down to the use case, the type of workload, and what programs and applications are being used. Neither AMD nor Intel's flagship offerings do much wrong in compute-heavy tasks and gaming. Still, if power draw is a concern, then AMD's highly efficient Zen 4 cores really take things to another level, or, should I say, a lower level as far as total power draw goes. AMD's Ryzen 7000 series chips at full-load generate much lower wattage levels than Intel's 13th Gen Core series; the Ryzen 9 7950X3D with 16 x Zen 4 cores draws much less power than Intel's Core i5-13600K, which is a 14-core part. The Intel Core i9-14900K at maximum load draw over 428 W of power using the MSI MEG Z790 Ace Max motherboard, which is a ridiculous amount; this is another reason we opted against selecting it.
Overall, when it comes primarily to gaming, there's much more benefit to be had from upgrading the graphics card than focusing purely on the processor, especially at higher resolutions such as 1440p and 4K. Although there's a lot of furor surrounding current GPU pricing (still), NVIDIA's GeForce RTX 4090 is nothing short of a beast. Even AMD's Radeon RX 7900 XTX/XT caters to high resolution and those with high refresh rate monitors such as 144 Hz at a slightly lower price point, and it's unlikely that anyone will endure lower than 144 Hz frame rates with any of the mentioned options at sub 4K resolutions.
Another question to really consider is, what are you upgrading from? If the answer is Ryzen 5000 or Intel's 12th Gen Core, then you're more likely to notice a much bigger jump in performance by upgrading your graphics card. Of course, any of the latest and greatest chips will do the job. Even a CPU such as the Core i5-13600K ($308) will provide enough compute grunt in practically every title outside of those insane CPU-heavy games such as Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020. Even here, upgrading to a more powerful graphics card will increase frame rates more than any processor will. There's a reason why many users are opting for CPUs from the previous generation, as price cuts have made them even more attractive, and they are still competent in terms of overall performance.
Despite this, we are opting for the AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D ($637) as the best gaming CPU of the current generation (so far), and with 128 MB (96+32 MB) of 3D V-Cache, it really does the job in titles that can benefit from it. Even on the compute side of things, the 7950X3D has enough oomph, whereas the Ryzen 7 5800X3D, when it first launched, didn't do so well in comparison. The Intel Core i9-13900K ($547) is the next best, and it's cheaper by $100 right now, and is faster in more scenarios than not, but AMD has a clear advantage on the power consumption and performance per watt. That being said, the Core i9-13900K can reduce the overall cost of the system by allowing use with the previous generation's Intel 600 series chipsets, as well as be paired up with cheaper DDR4 memory and still deliver high levels of multithreaded performance.
The question of future-proofing is also answered with both of these options, as PCIe 5.0 SSDs have rapidly become available on the shelves, but in contrast, PCIe 4.0 x4 M.2 drives have been reduced as a result, and there are plenty of storage bargains to be had at present.
The Smart Money Pick (Price versus Performance)
Intel Core i5-13600K (6+8-Core/20T, $308)
Unlike our previous recommendations for those with an unlimited budget, most PC builders in the current economic climate must consider their financial constraints while striving for decent performance levels. This selection aims to strike that balance. Sitting at the juncture between Intel's entry-level Core i3 series and the more upscale Core i9 and i7 series is the Intel Core i5-13600K, priced at $308. We've opted to retain our previous pick based solely on what's available in the market, and with prices fluctuating regularly on the market, the Core i5-13600K has held its price around the $310-320 price point. While Intel has the newer Core i5-14600K as part of its Raptor Lake refresh, it is currently selling for $339 on Amazon, and we believe the Core i5-13600K offers better value at the current price points. It is, after all, the same processor rebadged with such minor frequency differences that there is no benefit in paying more for the same chip with a new model number.
So, what makes Intel's Core i5-13600K such an attractive choice within the sub-$350 price range? It's crucial to acknowledge that even at $308, it still represents a significant investment, especially when compared to CPU prices from a decade ago. However, when you consider the performance-to-cost ratio and the ability to achieve solid value for gamers seeking areas to make savings without sacrificing too much compute performance, the Core i5-13600K certainly shines. Intel's hybrid core architecture, blending performance (P) and efficiency (E) cores, combined with Intel's Thread Director, designed to assign the right tasks on the right cores within Windows 11 21H2 or later, further enhances its appeal. This is all about delivering solid performance while keeping your budget in check and allowing savings to be made that could be allocated to other devices, such as memory, storage, and graphics.
The Core i5-13600K has a total of 14-cores (6P+8E), with 12 threads, and 24 MB of L3 cache, and on the surface, this doesn't sound like much. The reality is, the Core i5-13600K has everything under the hood that it could need to make it a viable option for users looking to game at resolutions of 1080p up to 4K in combination with a good discrete graphics card. Looking at the finer specifications, the Core i5-13600K can boost up to 5.1 GHz on the Performance (P) cores, while the Efficiency (E) cores can hit frequencies of up to 3.9 GHz.
What makes the Intel Core i5-13600K such a solid buy for $308 is that it's highly versatile and can be used as a very well-rounded option for both compute-related tasks and gaming. It benefits from all of the single-threaded IPC performance uplifts over Alder Lake as the Core i9-13900K does, but outside of highly multi-thread applications where the flagship comes out the clear winner, there's not that much difference in gaming. As we can see above in Red Dead Redemption 2 at 1080p Maximum settings, the Core i5-13600K performs similarly to the Core i9-13900K, but the Core i5-13600K is cheaper (at the time of writing).
We have highlighted the two-generation old Intel Core i7-12700K in the above charts to highlight how close it is in performance to the Core i5-13600K. Both have merits and while the Core i7-12700K is currently cheaper at $290 at Amazon, users have flexibility in what they want to do in terms of making a decision. The Core i5-13600K has slightly marginally better compute performance, while both share similar performance levels in gaming. The differential between both chips comes down to the price, as the money saved could be put towards a better graphics card, higher-density memory, or even storage.
Overall, the Intel Core i5-13600K, despite the new 14th Gen, is still our pick for balancing out price to performance, especially in gaming, and at $308, it represents a solid buy.
The Best Overall Value Pick For Gaming
AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D (8C/16T, $322)
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D (8C/16T, $397)
Turning our attention to our final selection, which places gaming at the forefront while maintaining a value-orientated approach to balancing performance and affordability. Within AMD's Ryzen 7000 and 5000 series, numerous options can potentially fulfill this criterion. For instance, the Ryzen 7 5700X boasts 8 cores and is priced at an enticing $184, making it a standout value proposition under the $200 mark. Furthermore, considering all the price drops on AMD's previous Ryzen 5000 series, it's worth noting that the Ryzen 7 5800X3D, now available at $322, is a very solid proposition for gamers on a budget.
Now we did really have a hard time making our value pick, and while the Ryzen 7 5800X3D ($322) did edge as the leading contender, a notable mention should also go to the Ryzen 7 7800X3D ($397). Despite both of these chips having a similar makeup with 5.0 GHz boost clocks, 96 MB of 3D V-Cache, and a TDP of 120 W, the price difference between both, especially in the value segment, did sway us to the Ryzen 7 5800X3D. The key takeaway in value is, for the price difference, users could put up a cheaper set of DDR4 memory and would be one step closer to a full system.
The AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D Review: A Simpler Slice of V-Cache For Gaming
Even though the Ryzen 7 7800X3D benefits from the latest Zen 4 cores, the makeup of the system has a larger cost overall with the combination of more expensive AM5 motherboards and a reliance on the higher-cost DDR5 memory. While $75 doesn't seem a lot, adding the extra premiums of an AM5 motherboard and DDR5 into the equation quickly expands, and that money would be better spent on a faster graphics card, especially in relation to gaming performance.
The benefits of the additional L3 cache are not especially consistent from game to game – among other things, you need to be CPU-limited to begin with to really enjoy them. Still, coupled with a cheap AM4 board and DDR4 memory, the Ryzen 7 5800X3D still warrants a look for buyers who aren't focused on gaming performance. Using Borderlands 3 at 1080p maximum settings as an example where the L3 cache does benefit performance, there's not too much difference between the flagship Ryzen 9 7950X3D ($637), the Ryzen 7 7800X3D ($397), and our pick, the Ryzen 7 5800X3D ($322). This is much the case in most of the titles that can benefit from the large levels of L3 cache, which is made possible through AMD and TSMC's 3D V-Cache packaging technology. In games that don't use the L3 cache, the beefier and gruntier CPUs take the edge, especially when not primarily CPU-limited.
In compute-focused scenarios, that's where other similarly priced CPUs, such as the Intel Core i5-13600K ($318), really do shine. Still, the Ryzen 7 5800X3D ($322) holds its own, and while there are trade-offs in balancing compute and gaming performance, the Ryzen 7 5800X3D in various games certainly makes it a very worthwhile offering. Even the Ryzen 7 7800X3D at $397 isn't too far ahead of the Ryzen 7 5800X3D in compute performance, which is why the cost savings associated with opting for Zen 3, AM4, and DDR4, make it all that much sweeter and easier on the pocket.
Touching more on the associated cost savings with opting for the Ryzen 7 5800X3D, it works with the AM4 platform and can be combined with a good set of DDR4 memory for optimal performance. Paired up with a relatively cheap B550 motherboard, which is much cheaper than current AM5 motherboards, leaves some extra spending money to pick up a better discrete video card, which, although cheaper than they used to be (thankfully), they are still not especially cheap. There's also the benefit of having eight Zen 3 cores to consider, as it means multi-platform games coming from the consoles (which use eight-core Zen 2 CPUs) won't find themselves for want of a CPU core.
Even in games and scenarios that favor faster cores, the Ryzen 7 5800X3D is still competitive, and the onus is more on the graphics card than the processor, essentially meaning that the money saved on the 5800X3D over the AMD/Intel flagships can be spent on a better graphics card that will push framerates even higher. The Ryzen 7 7800X3D ($397) wins out in all situations, but the added cost makes it a case of, if you have the extra money, then go for this. If on a budget, the Ryzen 7 5800X3D ($323) is more affordable overall and is still very capable.
It's worth noting that the Ryzen 7 5800X3D does require a discrete graphics card to be effective. The previous generation of CPUs, such as Ryzen 5000 and Intel's 12th Gen, are cheaper this year due to the launch of the newer counterparts. With the ever-increasing demand for specifications from game developers making titles on the latest game engines and with poorly optimized console ports, it's getting harder to recommend gaming on an integrated GPU. Even though GPU prices are still relatively high, even in the mid-range, they aren't as bad as they were during the mining craze, and there are bargains to be had if users are willing to look around.
In the grand scheme of all things gaming, it is still hard for PCs to compete with the game consoles regarding a true budget solution. Although it's taken over 2 years(!), the PlayStation 5 and Xbox Series X are now very easy to get a hold of, and with an Xbox Series S starter bundle on Amazon for as low as $250, it's easy to see why users would opt that route. True, they're consoles, so they don't come with the flexibility that we tend to appreciate as PC gamers; but it's hard to beat the power of bulk buying that Microsoft and Sony enjoy – especially as the two of them are willing to sell these consoles at cost (if not at a loss). Factor in Xbox Game Pass and other subscription-based services such as EA Play (also on PC by the way), and consoles offer a different level of value.
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Computer Hardware
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AMD's Ryzen Threadripper 7000 processors mark the latest additions to the high-end desktop (HEDT) market, a segment AMD wants to bring back to the mainstream. Based on AMD's proven Zen 4 architecture and built on TSMC's 5nm process, both of AMD's new Ryzen Threadripper 7000 lineups – Pro and non-Pro – are designed to bring more cores and more I/O to the high-end desktop and workstation markets. Altogether, AMD is offering three new Ryzen Threadripper 7000 SKUs, the top-end 7980X with 64 cores, the mid-tier 7970X with 32 cores, and the entry-level chip in the line-up, the 24-core 7960X.
As has been the case for the vanilla Threadripper series since its inception, the purpose of AMD's server-derived processors is to meet the demands of desktop users who require extreme multitasking capabilities and high throughput for complex workloads, offering more CPU cores, more memory channels, and more PCIe lanes than what otherwise comes with AMD's desktop platform. At the same time, the basic Threadripper lineup differentiates itself from the professional workstation-focused Threadripper Pro chips – in this case, AMD's new Threadripper 7000 WX-series – by leaving out some of the more 'Pro' features that come with that hardware, as well as some of the CPU/memory/IO hardware that the even more powerful Pro chips offer. Segmenting both product lines is a good idea, given the pedigree and use cases of both the Pro WX-series and non-Pro chips are aligned with. With Threadripper 7000, AMD targets customer bases that need CPUs more powerful than a desktop Ryzen processor but not as exotic (or expensive) as what's essentially a full server-grade chip.
After taking a break in the previous generation, AMD is once again offering a HEDT-focused line-up to consumers, which is as grandiose as it is interesting. When AMD launched the Zen 3-based Threadripper 5000 series, AMD only ever released the workstation-focused Pro parts, leaving users looking for semi-affordable high-core count CPUs in the dust. This time, AMD has decided to bring the HEDT back, creating a pair of Threadripper lines similar to the Threadripper 3000 family in 2019.
Today in our AMD Ryzen Threadripper 7000 series review, we're going to be focusing on the top two chips from the trifecta, the top-end Ryzen Threadripper 7980X (64C/128T) and the middle of the road 7970X (32C/64T). We'll be comparing them to the previous Ryzen Threadripper 3000 series and directly against Intel's Sapphire Rapids Workstation CPUs, including the flagship Intel Xeon w9-3495X. Also, we'll be putting them against the desktop flagships, such as the Intel Core i9-14900K and the AMD Ryzen 9 7950X, to see how much more performance AMD's new foray into HEDT users can squeeze out. Is there a suitable place in the market for HEDT chips, given how far desktop processors have progressed within the last couple of years? Let's find out.
AMD Ryzen Threadripper 7000 Series: Bringing HEDT Back
After AMD skipped releasing a vanilla Threadripper processor as part of their Zen 3 architecture family – what would have been the Ryzen Threadripper 5000 series – things certainly looked dim for the future of the high-end desktop (HEDT) market. Combined with Intel also skipping HEDT that generation by not bringing down their troubled Ice Lake server silicon to HEDT products, and it was looking like HEDT may have finally been pushed out by more powerful desktop processors. But a generation later, and things have seemingly changed for the better for the HEDT market. Looking to further capitalize on the success of their Zen 4 architecture, AMD is bringing back HEDT models to the market via the Threadripper 7000 series, with three new chips ranging up to 64C/128T, all with full Zen 4 cores.
The AMD Ryzen Threadripper 7980X, 7970X, and 7960X are the latest entries in the HEDT market, bringing significant advancements in processing power and efficiency. The 7980X is the top SKU with 64 cores/128 threads, a turbo clock speed of up to 5.1 GHz, and a base clock of 2.5 GHz. The 7970X has half the cores and threads, for 32 cores/64 threads altogether, and offers a higher base frequency of 3.2 GHz and matches its higher-end counterpart's 5.1 GHz turbo clock.
AMD Ryzen Threadripper 7980X (64C/128T) CPU-Z Screenshot
These chips are aimed at driving demanding multi-threaded applications that can saturate high core count CPUs, such as advanced content creation, 3D rendering, and complex computational tasks. The 7980X, the more powerful of the two, is particularly suited for scenarios requiring extreme multitasking and high throughput.
Conversely, though AMD isn't sampling it for today's review embargo, the Threadripper 7960X represents the other side of the coin. With 24 cores/48 threads, a base frequency of 3.2 GHz and a turbo clock speed of up to 5.3 GHz, the 7960X offers the fewest cores, but still all of the memory bandwidth and I/O lanes the Threadripper platform can provide, making it especially well suited for tasks where data throughput rather than raw CPU performance is the bottleneck. Still, with fewer CPU cores, it's the entry-level part (if you can call it that) to AMD's new HEDT platform, with an MSRP of $1499.
AMD Ryzen Threadripper 7000 (Zen 4) AnandTech Cores Base
Freq Turbo
Freq PCIe
(Gen 5) Cache
(L3) TDP DRAM
(RDIMM) Price
($) 7980X 64 / 128 2500 5100 48 256 MB 350W 4 x DDR5-5200 $4999 7970X 32 / 64 3200 5100 48 128 MB 350W 4 x DDR5-5200 $2499 7960X 24 / 48 3200 5300 48 128 MB 350W 4 x DDR5-5200 $1499
Regarding memory and I/O capabilities, the Threadripper 7000 series supports quad-channel DDR5 memory and up to 48 PCIe 5.0 lanes, offering plenty of bandwidth for devices such as storage and graphics. Unique to the Threadripper 7000 platform (versus AMD's consumer platform), AMD supports RDIMMs here, allowing the for support for up to 1 TB of memory via DDR-5200 RDIMMs – over 5x as much memory as desktop Ryzen.
These processors represent AMD's commitment to pushing the capability of desktop computing power, catering to both professionals, enthusiasts, and everything in between. They are designed for users who require more than what standard desktop CPUs can offer. The Ryzen Threadripper 7980X and 7970X are designed to excel in multi-threaded workloads. Their theoretical ability to handle more diverse and intensive workloads than desktop processors makes them a pivotal choice in the current HEDT landscape.
One step above this is the Threadripper 7000 Pro WX series, which has support for 8 channels of memory, pushing the performance where workloads, instruction sets, and applications can benefit from both more memory bandwidth and higher memory densities.
The TRX50 Chipset: Designed For Threadripper 7000, Supports TR Pro 7000 WX-Series
Launching alongside the new Threadripper chips is AMD's TRX50 chipset. The TRX50 platofrm uses the new 4844 pins sTR5 socket, which like the Threadripper processors themselves, is derived from AMD's EPYC offerings – in this case the SP6 socket AMD introduced for their lower-priced EPYC 8004 (Siena) processors. Despite the identical pin count, it should be noted that sTR5 and SP6 are not pin compatible.
Meanwhile, looking at things on a generational basis, there is a degree of cooler compatibility. Specifically, older socket sTRX4 Threadripper coolers will still fit on the 58.5mm x 75.4mm sTR5 socket. This means users upgrading from sTRX4 chips should theoretically be able to recycle their old cooler. However, they would certainly need to be capable of supporting a higher TDP of 350 W.
Platform diagram of the WRX90 (left) and TRX50 (right)
For memory and I/O, the TRX50 platform supports 4-channel DDR5 memory and 80 PCIe lanes. Though the latter ends up being an unexpected mix of PCIe 5.0 lanes and PCIe 4.0 lanes, with 48x PCIe 5.0 lanes alongside a further 32x PCIe 4.0 lanes. As PCIe Gen5 is more complex to implement and longer runs require re-drivers, AMD has opted to limit the manufacturing costs of motherboards by not running quite so many max-speed PCIe lanes. At the same time, the idea of TRX50, especially when directly compared to WRX90 for Threadripper Pro 7000 WX-series chips, is that it is a cut-down version to provide everything users need on a middle-abridged chipset between desktop AM5 and WRX90 – meaning that dialing back some PCIe lanes to 4.0 also provides some feature differentiation between the two Threadripper lineups.
AMD Ryzen Threadripper 7970X (32C/64T) CPU-Z Screenshot
It is worth highlighting that Threadripper 7000 Pro chips can also be used in TRX50 motherboards. But, of course, they will be subjected to the same memory channel and I/O limitations. In that respect, TRX50 boards can be used as a budget board pairing for Threadripper Pro chips. Otherwise, the converse is false: non-pro Threadripper 7000 chips cannot be used in WRX90 boards, as illogical as that would be.
Test Bed and Setup
We use the following test systems for our AMD Ryzen Threadripper 7980X, 7970X, and Intel Xeon WS-series testing:
AMD Ryzen Threadripper 7000 Series Intel Sapphire Rapids Xeon Series CPU Ryzen Threadripper 7980X ($4999)
64 Cores, 128 Threads
350 W TDP
Ryzen Threadripper 7970X ($2499)
32 Cores, 64 Threads
350 W TDP Xeon W9-3495X ($5889)
56 Cores, 112 Threads
350 W TDP Motherboard ASUS Pro WS TRX50-SAGE WIFI ASUS Pro WS W790E-SAGE SE Memory G.Skill Zeta R5 Neo
4x32 GB
DDR5-5200 RDIMM SK Hynix
8x16 GB
DDR5-4800 RDIMM 6 NZXT Kraken 360 360mm AIO Noctua NH-U14S DX-4677 Storage SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIe 4.0 x4 Power Supply MSI A1000G 1000W GPUs AMD Radeon RX 6950 XT, 31.0.12019 Operating Systems Windows 11 22H2
For our head-to-head comparison, we have on hand Intel's latest Sapphire Rapids Xeons. Like the Threadripper series, the Xeons are split up into two sub-groups – the full-fat Xeon w-3000 series for high-end workstations, and the lighter Xeon w-2000 series for more mainstream workstations. Unfortunately, the only Xeons we have on hand are the w-3000 series parts (which is what Intel sampled for reviewing when those were released), so it's not quite an apples-to-apples comparison, especially as the w-3000 Xeons support 8 channels of memory (versus TR's 4 channels).
Still, there are similarities in core and thread count and TDP that should offer some enlightening data. Both platforms have a max TDP of 350W, and the Intel W9-3495X we're using is a 56C/112T chip, while the Threadripper 7980X is a 64C/128T chip.
For added flavor, we'll be adding in data from both AMD and Intel's flagship desktop processors, including the Core i9-14900K, the Ryzen 9 7950X, and Ryzen 9 7950X3D. We will also be comparing the new AMD Threadripper 7000 series chips to their previous counterparts, including the AMD Ryzen Threadripper 3990X (64C/128T), which we reviewed in 2020, as well as the Threadripper 3970X (32C/64T).
Read on for our extended analysis.
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Computer Hardware
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With faster and higher capacity HBM3E memory set to come online early in 2024, NVIDIA has been preparing its current-generation server GPU products to use the new memory. Back in August we saw NVIDIA’s plans to release an HBM3E-equipped version of the Grace Hopper GH200 superchip, and now for the SC23 tradeshow, NVIDIA is announcing their plans to bring to market an updated version of the stand-alone H100 accelerator with HBM3E memory, which the company will be calling the H200.
Like its Grace Hopper counterpart, the purpose of the H200 is to serve as a mid-generation upgrade to the Hx00 product line by rolling out a version of the chip with faster and higher capacity memory. Tapping the HBM3E memory that Micron and others are set to roll out n, NVIDIA will be able to offer accelerators with better real-world performance in memory bandwidth-bound workloads, but also parts that can handle even larger workloads. This stands to be especially helpful in the generative AI space – which has been driving virtually all of the demand for H100 accelerators thus far – as the largest of the large language models can max out the 80GB H100 as it is.
Meanwhile, with HBM3E memory not shipping until next year, NVIDIA has been using the gap to announce HBM3E updated parts at their leisure. Following this summer’s GH200 announcement, it was only a matter of time until NVIDIA announced a standalone version of the Hx00 accelerator with HBM3E, and this week NVIDIA is finally making that announcement.
NVIDIA Accelerator Specification Comparison H200 H100 A100 (80GB) FP32 CUDA Cores 16896? 16896 6912 Tensor Cores 528? 528 432 Boost Clock 1.83GHz? 1.83GHz 1.41GHz Memory Clock ~6.5Gbps HBM3E 5.24Gbps HBM3 3.2Gbps HBM2e Memory Bus Width 6144-bit 5120-bit 5120-bit Memory Bandwidth 4.8TB/sec 3.35TB/sec 2TB/sec VRAM 141GB 80GB 80GB FP64 Vector 33.5 TFLOPS? 33.5 TFLOPS 9.7 TFLOPS INT8 Tensor 1979 TOPS? 1979 TOPS 624 TOPS FP16 Tensor 989 TFLOPS? 989 TFLOPS 312 TFLOPS FP64 Tensor 66.9 TFLOPS? 66.9 TFLOPS 19.5 TFLOPS Interconnect NVLink 4
18 Links (900GB/sec) NVLink 4
18 Links (900GB/sec) NVLink 3
12 Links (600GB/sec) GPU GH100
(814mm2) GH100
(814mm2) GA100
(826mm2) Transistor Count 80B 80B 54.2B TDP 700W 700W 400W Manufacturing Process TSMC 4N TSMC 4N TSMC 7N Interface SXM5 SXM5 SXM4 Architecture Hopper Hopper Ampere
Based on the same GH100 GPU as found in the original H100, the new HBM3E-equipped version of the H100 accelerator will be getting a new model number, H200, to set it apart from its original predecessor and align it with the GH200 superchip (whose HBM3E version is not getting a distinct model number).
Looking at the specifications being disclosed today, the H200 basically looks like the Hopper half of GH200 as its own accelerator. The big difference here, of course, is swapping out HBM3 for HBM3E, which is allowing NVIDIA to boost both memory bandwidth and capacity – as well as NVIDIA enabling the 6th HBM memory stack, which was disabled in the original H100. This will increase the H200’s memory capacity from 80GB to 141GB, and memory bandwidth from 3.35TB/second to what NVIDIA is preliminarily expecting to be 4.8TB/second – an approximately 43% increase in bandwidth.
Working backwards here based on total bandwidth and memory bus width, this indicates that H200’s memory will be running at roughly 6.5Gbps/pin, a roughly 25% frequency increase versus the original H100’s 5.3Gbps/pin HBM3 memory. This is actually well below the memory frequencies that HBM3E is rated for – Micron wants to hit 9.2Gbps/pin – but since it’s being retrofit to an existing GPU design, it’s not surprising to see that NVIDIA’s current memory controllers don’t have the same range.
The H200 will also keep GH200’s unusual memory capacity of 141GB. The HBM3E memory itself physically has a capacity of 144GB – coming in the form of six 24GB stacks – however NVIDIA is holding back some of that capacity for yield reasons. As a result, customers don’t get access to all 144GB on board, but compared to H100 they are getting access to all six stacks, with the capacity and memory bandwidth benefits thereof.
As we’ve noted in past articles, shipping a part with all 6 working stacks will essentially require a perfect chip, as H100’s specs very generously allowed NVIDIA to ship parts with a non-functional stack. So this is likely to be a lower volume, lower yielding part than comparable H100 accelerators (which are already in short supply).
Otherwise, nothing NVIDIA has disclosed so far indicates that H200 will have better raw computational throughput than its predecessor. While real-world performance should improve from the memory changes, the 32 PFLOPS of FP8 performance that NVIDIA is quoting for an HGX H200 cluster is identical to the HGX H100 clusters available on the market today.
Finally, as with HBM3E-equipped GH200 systems, NVIDIA is expecting H200 accelerators to be available in the second quarter of 2024.
HGX H200 Announced: Compatible With H100 Systems
Alongside the H200 accelerator, NVIDIA is also announcing their HGX H200 platform, an updated version of the 8-way HGX H100 that uses the newer accelerator. The true backbone of NVIDIA’s H100/H200 family, the HGX carrier boards house 8 SXM form factor accelerators linked up in a pre-arranged, fully-connected topology. The stand-alone nature of the HGX board allows it to be plugged in to suitable host systems, allowing OEMs to customize the non-GPU parts of their high-end servers.
Given that HGX goes hand-in-hand with NVIDIA’s server accelerators, the announcement of the HGX 200 is largely a formality. Still, NVIDIA is making sure to announce it at SC23, as well as making sure that HGX 200 boards are cross-compatible with H100 boards. So server builders can use HGX H200 in their current designs, making this a relatively seamless transition.
Quad GH200 Announced: 4 GH200s Baked Into a Single Board
With NVIDIA now shipping both Grace and Hopper (and Grace Hopper) chips in volume, the company is also announcing some additional products using those chips. The latest of which is a 4-way Grace Hopper GH200 board, which NVIDIA is simply calling the Quad GH200.
Living up to the name, the Quad GH200 places four GH200 accelerators on to a single board, which can then be installed in larger systems. The individual GH200s are wired up to each other in an 8-chip, 4-way NVLink topology, with the idea being to use these boards as the building blocks for larger systems.
In practice, the Quad GH200 is the Grace Hopper counterpart to the HGX platforms. The inclusion of Grace CPUs technically makes each board independent and self-supporting, unlike the GPU-only HGX boards, but the need to connect them to host infrastructure remains unchanged.
A Quad GH200 node will offer 288 Arm CPU cores and a combined 2.3TB of high-speed memory. Notably, NVIDIA does not mention using the HBM3E version of GH200 here (at least not initially), so these figures seem to be with the original, HBM3 version. Which means we’re looking at 480GB of LPDDR5X per Grace CPU, and 96GB of HBM3 per Hopper GPU. Or a total of 1920GB of LPDDR5X and 384GB of HBM3 memory.
Jupiter Supercomputer: 24K GH200s at 18.2 Megawatts, Installing in 2024
Finally, NVIDIA is announcing a new supercomputer design win this morning with Jupiter. Ordered by the EuroHPC Joint Undertaking, Jupiter will be a new supercomputer built out of 23,762 GH200 nodes. Once it comes online, Jupiter will be the largest Hopper-based supercomputer announced thus far, and is the first one that is explicitly (and publicly) targeting standard HPC workloads as well as the low-precision tensor-driven AI workloads that have come to define the first Hopper-based supercomputers.
Contracted to Eviden and ParTec, Jupiter is a showcase of NVIDIA technologies through and through. Based on the Quad GH200 node that NVIDIA is also announcing today, Grace CPUs and Hopper GPUs sit at the core of the supercomputer. The individual nodes are backed by a Quantum-2 InfiniBand network, no doubt based on NVIDIA’s ConnectX adapters.
The company is not disclosing specific core count or memory capacity figures, but since we know what a single Quad GH200 board offers, the math is simple enough. At the top end (assuming no salvaging/binning for yield reasons), this would be 23,762 Grace CPUs, 23,762 Hopper H100-class GPUs, and roughly 10.9 PB of LPDDR5X and anther 2.2PB of HBM3 memory.
The system is slated to offer 93 EFLOPS of low-precision performance for AI uses, or over 1 EFLOPS of delivered high-precision (FP64) performance for traditional HPC workloads. The latter figure is especially notable, as that would make Jupiter the first NVIDIA-based exascale system for HPC workloads.
That said, NVIDIA’s HPC performance claims should be taken with a word of caution, as NVIDIA is still counting tensor performance here – 1 EFLOPS of FP64 is something 23,762 H100s can only provide with FP64 tensor operations. The traditional metric for theoretical HPC supercomputer throughput is vector performance rather than matrix performance, so this figure isn’t entirely comparable to other systems. Still, with HPC workloads also making significant use of matrix math in parts, it’s not an entirely irrelevant claim, either. Otherwise, for anyone looking for the obligatory Frontier comparison, the straight vector performance of Jupiter would be around 800 TFLOPS, versus over twice that for Frontier. How close the two systems get in real-world conditions, on the other hand, will come down to how much matrix math is used in their respective workloads (LINPACK results should be interesting).
No price tag has been announced for the system, but power consumption has: a toasty 18.2 Megawatts of electricity (~3MW less than Frontier). So whatever the true price of the system is, like the system itself, it will be anything but petite.
According to NVIDIA’s press release, the system will be housed at the Forschungszentrum Jülich facility in Germany, where it will be used for “the creation of foundational AI models in climate and weather research, material science, drug discovery, industrial engineering and quantum computing.” Installation of the system is scheduled for 2024, though no date has been announced for when it’s expected to come online.
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Computer Hardware
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Over the years, motherboard manufacturers have consistently pushed the limits on top-end motherboards with striking designs and PCBs filled to the brim with the latest controllers and feature sets. Although these typically come with a high price premium, these 'flagships' represent the latest components, designed to operate the fastest processors to deliver leading-edge performance while offering the best controllers available at the time of manufacture.
One such model is the GIGABYTE Z790 Aorus Xtreme, which is the direct successor to the Z690 Aorus Xtreme, and boasts a premium feature set, including support for DDR5-8000 memory, dual Thunderbolt 4 Type-C, as well as 10 GbE and Wi-Fi 6E connectivity. Sitting at the top of GIGABYTE's Z790 range of motherboards, the Z790 Aorus Xtreme is designed for Intel's 13th (and 12th) generation Core series processors, and as such, benefits from advancements such as PCIe 5.0, native USB 3.2 G2x2 connectivity through a front panel header, and 10 x USB 3.2 G2 Type-A ports directly located on the back panel.
In a market with a massive choice of motherboards, the GIGABYTE Z790 Aorus Xtreme has plenty of bells and whistles and appeals to users looking for the best motherboard designs and technology. Despite not being cheap, GIGABYTE, over the last couple of generations on both AMD and Intel chipsets, has offered good levels of value while offering solid performance levels. Today we're taking a closer look at the Z790 Aorus Xtreme to see how it stacks up against other LGA1700 motherboards with our Intel Core i9-13900K and if there's any value to be had amid the solid and premium feature set offered by GIGABYTE.
GIGABYTE Z790 Aorus Xtreme Overview
With plenty of options for users and catering to all budgets, GIGABYTE has a diverse choice of Z790/LGA1700 motherboards to suit a specific user's needs. For the entry-level and more typical desktop systems, GIGABYTE's UD or Ultra Durable series offer a solid yet simplistic set of features acting as an entry point onto Intel's 13th/12th Gen Core series, while for content creators, GIGABYTE also offers a number of Aero branded models which focus more on premium connectivity and networking options.
The GIGABYTE Aorus series primarily targets gamers but consolidates all of the best features and controller sets into many offerings from the mid-range to the high-end, and the GIGABYTE Z790 Aorus Xtreme falls into the latter category. Sitting at the top of GIGABYTE's Z790 motherboard stack, the Z790 Aorus Xtreme has all of the best controller sets and features that GIGABYTE has to offer, including a blend of some features to make cable management easier for users, as well as a large and powerful power delivery designed to run Intel's 13th and 12th Gen Core series processors to their limits.
Looking closer at the GIGABYTE Z790 Aorus Xtreme motherboard, it has a large E-ATX-sized PCB, allowing GIGABYTE to implement more controllers and features onto the board itself. Looking at an overall view of the board from a birds-eye view, the Z790 Aorus Xtreme is predominately covered by waves of Aorus-inspired armor, which also includes a large metal chipset and PCIe armor cover across the center of the PCIe slot area, as well as a large rear panel cover. Interestingly, the rear panel cover features a 2.8-inch digital LCD monitor, which displays real-time system information such as CPU temperature, CPU clock speed, memory clock speed, and VRM temperatures. Typically a feature on high-end premium models such as this, the LCD display is a nice touch, but it does require a chassis with a clear windowed side panel to take advantage of this.
Touching more on GIGABYTE's implementation of cable management, the Z790 Aorus Xtreme, all around the edging of the board, features right-angled headers, connectors, and power inputs. Designed to allow users to plug a cable in at a right angle, this makes it easier as the cables don't directly stick out and can seamlessly be directed through the grommets within a chassis for a more uniform and less cluttered look. GIGABYTE also includes PCIe and M.2 EZ-latches, meaning PCIe and M.2 drives are easily installed and re-installed into the chassis at the tap of a switch or the flick of a thumb.
Removing the large metal mid-plate across the middle of the PCIe slot area and the CPU drive PCIe 5.0 x4 M.2 slot reveals the bulk of the board's M.2 slot array. The plate itself acts as a large PCIe M.2 heatsink for the three central PCIe 4.0 x4 M.2 slots, as well as a cover for the chipset heatsink. In total, the GIGABYTE Z790 Aorus Xtreme has five M.2 slots, with one PCIe 5.0 x4 fed from the CPU as mentioned with a large heatsink covering it, three PCIe 4.0 x4 M.2 slots sandwiched in between the top two full-length PCIe slots, and one PCIe 4.0 x4/SATA M.2 located below the chipset heatsink. For SATA, GIGABYTE includes four right-angled SATA ports which are capable of supporting RAID 0, 1, 5, and 10 arrays.
Regarding PCIe slot support, interestingly, GIGABYTE opts for just one full-length PCIe 5.0 x16 slot, with two full-length PCIe 3.0 slots operating at x4 and x1. Having fewer PCIe 5.0 lanes designated to full-length slots provides benefits and disadvantages, but given many aftermarket PCIe add-on cards can't use the immense bandwidth of PCIe 5.0 at present other than NVMe SSDs, the bandwidth, and the subsequent lanes can be directed to other areas such as controllers. Other users may argue that having two full-length PCIe 5.0 slots can deliver extra lanes to faster PCIe M.2 storage devices through a multi-M.2 slot adapter, but with five M.2 slots integrated onto the board, there's still plenty of scope for storage here.
Focusing on the power delivery on the Z790 Aorus Xtreme, GIGABYTE has gone for a large 20+1-phase design, with premium componentry expected from a board of this caliber. For the CPU, GIGABYTE has included 20 x Renesas RAA22010540 105 A smart power stages, which operate in a teamed configuration and are driven by a Renesas RAA229131 PWM controller. There's also a single RAA22010540 150 A power stage for the SoC. Interestingly, GIGABYTE has employed a teamed setup for the VRM and not a full 20-phase direct configuration, but the output equates to a maximum of 2100 A for the CPU to play with, which is overkill.
Keeping the power delivery cool is a very large pair of heatsinks interconnected by a single 8 mm thick heat pipe with a nanocarbon-coated fin array. GIGABYTE claims that using a 22-micrometer thick nanocarbon coating on the thins can reduce VRM temperatures by up to 10%. Looking at the indentations within the 12 W/mk thermal pads used by GIGABYTE, the heatsink makes good contact with the majority of the power stages and chokes, which is a good indicator that contact and thermal dissipation should be, in theory, optimal.
On the premium Z790 motherboards such as this, we typically see support for much faster memory, and the Z790 Aorus Xtreme is no exception. GIGABYTE supports up to DDR5-8000 (OC) memory in a dual channel (1DPC) configuration, with up to 192 GB supported across four slots. The slots feature a one-sided latch mechanism to install the DRAM, and CPU cooler support, especially of the air-cooled variety, depends on the height of the DRAM being used.
Spearheading the onboard audio solution on the Z790 Aorus Xtreme is a Realtek ALC4082 HD audio codec with an ESS Sabre ES9280AC DAC and two ESS E9080 DAC chips. As it stands, this is one of the most high-end integrated audio solutions we've seen on a motherboard outside of those bundled with an external PCIe sound card. Although the Realtek ALC4082 HD audio codec and ESS DACs aren't complimented with any EMI shielding, GIGABYTE does cover the audio PCB with a thin sheet of metal armor, so despite no EMI shielding to speak of, it at least looks nice and clean to look at.
On the rear panel of the GIGABYTE Z790 Aorus Xtreme is a wide variety of premium connectivity and networking available for users to sink their teeth into. Starting with the most premium input and output, GIGABYTE includes a Thunderbolt 4 controller, which includes two Type-C connectors that can double up as DisplayPort inputs for compatible displays. Other USB connectivity includes ten USB 3.2 G2 Type-A ports, while the Realtek ALC4082 and the three ESS DACs drive the two 3.5 mm audio jacks and S/PDIF optical output.
The networking array on the Z790 Aorus Xtreme is high-end, with one Marvell AQtion AQC107 10 GbE controller, a second Ethernet port powered by an Intel I225-V 2.5 GbE controller, while a Killer AX1690 Wi-Fi 6E CNVi provides both 6 GHz band access and support for BT 5.3 devices.
As is when looking at a flagship motherboard such as the GIGABYTE Z790 Aorus Xtreme, these do come with a typically higher price tag than conventional mid-range motherboards. Despite the additional cost, these are offset by featuring premium controllers such as 10 GbE, Thunderbolt 4, and more bells and whistles. As of its initial launch, the GIGABYTE Z790 Aorus Xtreme costs $800, which aligns with current pricing depending on the retailer of choice. As such, as with stock level fluctuations, prices may vary. Compared to the competition, MSI's flagship MEG Z790 Godlike has similar high-level features but costs $1200, while ASUS's flagship, the ROG Maximus Z790 Extreme, is also feature-rich and equally costly at $999.
At present, and not including ASRock's Z790 Taichi and Taichi Cararra (<$500), which are their top-tier Z790 boards, they are technically devout of being a true flagship or halo model, the GIGABYTE Z790 Aorus Xtreme is currently the cheapest flagship Z790 board at the time of writing. Even coming with a high price of $800, the pricing is almost certainly subjective, and on paper, the GIGABYTE Z790 Aorus Xtreme is a very high-end example utilizing much of what Intel's Z790 chipset has to offer.
Of course, as we like to say, performance is the key element (along with features) in which users purchase motherboards, as well as pricing and how much value can be had from any particular motherboard. With that being said, read on for our extended analysis.
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Computer Hardware
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In May, AMD unveiled their Ryzen 7040U series of CPUs designed for thin and light notebooks, which they codenamed 'Phoenix.' Initially, AMD announced four Zen 4-based CPUs for the ultra-portable notebook market, with the Ryzen 7 7840U (8C/16T) and Ryzen 5 7640U (6C/12T) both leading the charge with AMD's integrated Ryzen AI, which is AMD's first-generation NPU for on-chip AI and inferencing.
Fast forward a few months, and AMD is unveiling an additional two new Ryzen Mobile 7040U series processors. But there's a twist: these chips are using their smaller and highly optimized Zen 4c cores. Although AMD's more petite Zen 4c core initially debuted with the launch of their EPYC 97x4 'Bergamo' processors for native cloud deployments, server chips were never going to be the only place AMD used their compact cores. Zen 4c was already silently released in the consumer market as part of the Ryzen Z1 (non-extreme) CPU used in ASUS's ROG Ally handheld (2x Zen 4 + 4x Zen 4c), and now Zen 4c is getting a proper welcome in the consumer market with its use in a set of Ryzen laptop chips.
The first of the two new Ryzen 7040U processors with Zen 4c is the Ryzen 5 7545U, which coincidentally shares similar specifications to the existing Ryzen 7540U processor. The critical difference is that the Ryzen 5 7545U uses two full-fat Zen 4 cores with four of the smaller Zen 4c cores, which is an interesting implementation, to say the least. The second is the Ryzen 3 7440U, a direct successor to the...well, processor with the same name, the Ryzen 3 7440U, trading off most of its Zen 4 CPU cores for Zen 4c cores.
There's some nuance to pick apart with AMD's decision to use Zen 4c within their mobile platforms, as AMD highlighted at the launch of Bergamo that the 'c' in Zen 4c stands for 'Cloud,' and it's interesting to see AMD opting to integrate Zen 4c in a primarily low-end consumer segment. There are very notable differences between Zen 4 and Zen 4c, which makes things interesting, to say the least, especially when comparing the two core architectures and their intended use cases.
AMD Ryzen 7040U Series: Integrating Zen 4c into Mobile
Building on the context of AMD's strategic decision to bring Zen 4c-based parts to the consumer market with the Ryzen 7040U series, a grasping of the technicalities becomes paramount. With the Ryzen 5 7545U and the Ryzen 3 7440U with Zen 4c making their way into the market, understanding the decision is nearly as vital as trying to extrapolate the benefits of doing so in terms of performance and capability.
The core purpose of the Zen 4c core is to be a feature-identical implementation of Zen 4 in a smaller size. It is a compact core that trades clockspeeds for compression, using denser libraries that can't clock as high, but in turn make for a smaller and more power efficient core overall.
As we've already seen with AMD's initial Zen 4c EPYC chips, on TSMC's 5nm process a conventional Zen 4 core and its associated L2 cache has an area of 3.84 mm². That same architecture, compacted and built on the same 5nm process, results in a Zen 4c core that's just 2.48 mm² in size, or around 35% smaller. And whether we're talking about servers or mobile, the basic goals are the same for Zen 4c: using a smaller footprint allows AMD to include more Zen 4c cores within the same package area. Or, conversely, to include the same number of CPU cores in a smaller (and cheaper) die.
On their server parts, AMD ended up going both directions with their various EPYC designs. The EYPC 97x4 'Bergamo' chips offer up to 128 Zen 4c cores – 32 more than the top EPYC 9004 Genona chips – thanks to the higher density/smaller size of the Zen 4c cores. Meanwhile AMD's "budget" EPYC 8004 'Siena' chips, offering up to 64 Zen 4c cores over just 4 CCDs allowed AMD to produce a cheaper and lower power chip overall.
As noted earlier, enabling this smaller version of Zen 4 is a switch from high performance libraries and overall high clockspeeds to high density libraries. Despite those plumbing changes, however, Zen 4 and Zen 4c cores are identical in features and core IPC – and in the case of the mobile chips, even the amount of L2 cache per core. So every single figure and buffer, right on down to SMT, is present, and runs just as fast on a clock-for-clock basis.
But total CPU performance is also about overall clockspeeds, and for that reason a significant amount of Zen 4's area budget was spent on enabling it to clock at well over 5GHz. High performance libraries live up to their name, but they are not space efficient like high density libraries are. The trade-off being that high performance libraries offer the space and other features needed to reach those chart-topping clockspeeds.
The net result is that Zen 4c cores, while clock-for-clock identical to Zen 4 in terms of performance, reach lower core clock frequencies overall. Which, combined with the lower power nature of high density libraries, translates into less power used and a general improvement in energy efficiency.
All of which brings us back to the subject of the Zen 4c-based Ryzen 7040U series. AMD's idea around implementing Zen 4c into their Ryzen 7040U series comes down to power efficiency, as AMD claims that using smaller Zen 4c cores with the same IPC is more power efficient at low TDPs, even improving performance for sub-15W chips. Which, coupled with the lower performance profile of the bottom-end of AMD's mobile chip stack, is why we're first seeing Zen 4c cores here.
Phoenix Rises Twice: Phoenix 2 vs. Phoenix
For AMD's new mobile chips, the company has minted a new monolithic silicon die: Phoenix 2. This is, for all intents and purposes, a budget version of the original Phoenix die used in AMD's original Ryzen 7000 mobile chips. It's a smaller chip with fewer functional blocks, along with replacing some Zen 4 CPU cores for the smaller Zen 4c CPU cores.
Strictly speaking, this is not the first time AMD has used Phoenix 2. But it is the most visible. AMD silently launched it over the summer as part of the Ryzen Z1 series – the Ryzen Z1 Extreme is using the Phoenix die, whereas the weaker Ryzen Z1 (non-extreme) was in fact the first chip out of the door to use Phoenix 2.
The fact that AMD even made Phoenix 2 is in some respects remarkable. The company has, for various reasons, kept a rather light footprint in the mobile market over the past few generations. They've never issued two mobile dies for a single architecture before now, always using various bins of the same die within a given lineup (e.g. all Rembrandt for the Ryzen Mobile 6000 series). So the fact that AMD is making a second Phoenix chip, albeit with the twist of Zen 4c cores, is a notable change from status quo. Multiple chips will help AMD address the wider laptop market without having to sell a bunch of expensive Phoenix (1) chips at cut-throat prices. Though whether this actually means we'll see a wider AMD presence in the market – if AMD will actually have a wider footprint – remains to be seen.
AMD Phoenix Family SoCs AnandTech CPU Cores iGPU CUs Ryzen AI L2 Cache L3 Cache Die Size Phoenix (1) 8x Zen 4 12x RDNA3
(Radeon 780M) Y 1MB/core 16MB 178mm² Phoenix 2 2x Zen 4 + 4x Zen 4c 4x RDNA3
(Radeon 740M) N 1MB/core 16MB 137mm²
Diving a bit deeper into the technical specifications for Phoenix 2, AMD has confirmed that the die size for Phoenix 2 is 137mm², about 23% smaller than the original 178 mm² Phoenix die. The die space savings for AMD's budget mobile chip come from not only excising CPU cores (8x Zen 4 -> 2x Zen 4 + 4x Zen 4c), but also cutting down the number of GPU CUs (12 -> 4), and tossing out the Ryzen AI NPU.
In theory, AMD could have also used the Zen 4c cores to pack more cores into a Phoenix-sized die, but for now they are making smaller moves with smaller chips.
The Chips: Ryzen 5 7545U and Ryzen 3 7440U
Headlining these new chips will be the Ryzen 5 7545U, which is a 2x Zen 4 + 4x Zen 4c chip (essentially a full Phoenix 2). Zen 4c aside, this happens to be the exact same configuration as the existing Ryzen 5 7540U, which is why the 7540U will be going away in favor of the 7545U.
AMD Ryzen 7040U Mobile CPUs AnandTech C/T Core
Architecture Base
Freq (MHz) Turbo
Freq
(MHz) Ryzen AI? iGPU iGPU CUs L3 Cache
(MB) TDP Ryzen 7 7840U 8/16 8x Zen 4 3300 5100 Y Radeon 780M 12 16 15-30W Ryzen 5 7640U 6/12 6x Zen 4 3500 4900 Y Radeon 760M 8 16 15-30W Ryzen 5 7540U 6/12 6x Zen 4 3200 4900 N Radeon 740M 4 16 15-30W Ryzen 5 7545U 6/12 2 x Zen 4
4 x Zen 4c 3200 4900 N Radeon 740M 4 16 15-30W Ryzen 3 7440U* 4/8 4x Zen 4 3000 4700 N Radeon 740M 4 8 15-30W Ryzen 3 7440U 4/8 1 x Zen 4
3 x Zen 4c 3000 4700 N Radeon 740M 4 8 15-30W
*AMD gives conflicting information on the 'old' 7440U. According to their catalog, a pure Zen 4 version of this SKU exists
Because AMD is still including a pair of full-fat Zen 4 cores in the Ryzen 5 7545U, its peak turbo frequency of 4.9GHz remains unchanged. Otherwise, AMD is claiming both chips share the same 3.2 GHz base frequency, which means both the Zen 4 and Zen 4c cores are clocked to 3.2 GHz on the Ryzen 5 7545U. The Ryzen 5 7545U has the same 1 MB of L2 cache per core (6 MB) and has a shared 16 MB of L3 cache.
The second of AMD's new chips with Zen 4c is the Ryzen 3 7440U, which offers a single Zen 4 CPU core and a trio of Zen 4c CPU cores. The budget entry in AMD's mobile stack, this is the only part with just 4 CPU cores in total, and has the weakest peak clockspeed of 4.7GHz (for a single core). CPU cores aside, the chip has 8 MB of L3 cache shared between the cores, 1 MB of L2 cache per core (4 MB in total), and both include AMD's RDNA 3-based Radeon 740M with four CUs clocked up to 2.5 GHz.
Meanwhile, the 'new' Ryzen 3 7440U isn't to be confused with the 'old' Ryzen 3 7440U... and yes, it is still confusing. AMD launched the original 7440U SKU back in May as a pure Zen 4 part, where it's listed on AMD's website to this day. At present, AMD isn't differentiating between the original Ryzen 3 7440U and the new Ryzen 3 7440U with Zen 4c cores – both are the 7440U. We did ask AMD to clarify this, and they responded that the Ryzen 3 7440U was always one SKU based on Zen 4c. So despite AMD's catalog entry, the official line for the moment is that the Zen 4-based Ryzen 3 7440U SKU doesn't actually exist, and that there has always been just one 7440U.
Things Not Said: Zen 4c Clockspeeds and CPU Core Disclosures
Despite the fact that this is AMD’s first use of a silicon-heterogenous set of CPU cores within AMD’s consumer processors, the company has given the overall matter a relatively light treatment. Because Zen 4c has the same IPC as Zen 4, AMD is treating them as one and the same throughout their marketing and technical disclosures. And while there’s something to be said for keeping things simple for the masses, we none the less have come away from AMD’s briefing with some reservations about the matter – and some concerns about what is not being said.
To tackle the biggest issue first, the big trade-off with Zen 4c is die space for clockspeed. Zen 4c cores clock lower than Zen 4 cores. How much lower? Well, there’s the rub. We don’t know. At least, not with Phoenix 2.
On AMD’s server processors where everything has been entirely above the board and fully detailed, AMD clearly publishes that none of the Zen 4c chips clock higher than 3.1GHz, some 1.3GHz (30%) slower than the fastest Genoa chip (9174F). However, for their consumer chips, the only clockspeeds AMD are disclosing are the max turbo clockspeed – which is for the regular Zen 4 core(s) – and then the base clockspeed for the entire chip. Which, in the case of the fastest 7545U, is 3.2GHz.
Without getting too much into the weeds here, AMD’s server chips have different clockspeed guarantees than their consumer chips. The company essentially guarantees any and every core on a server CPU can hit the same max clockspeed (if not all at once), whereas on the consumer side of matters we have favored cores, where the best couple of cores are allowed to turbo a bit higher.
All of this is to say that, based on AMD’s disclosures thus far, all evidence points to Zen 4c not clocking much above 3GHz – and it’s not supposed to.
But compared to a Phoenix (1) chip with Zen 4 cores, this is a significant and notable difference. Whereas all 8 cores on Phoenix can get to 4GHz+ when power and thermal conditions allow it, there’s no surpassing the lower clockspeeds of Zen 4c. In that respect, Zen 4c is not equivalent to Zen 4; it’s markedly slower.
In practice, things aren’t going to be this disparate, of course. In a 15W device there’s little room for a 6/8 core Zen 4 setup to hit those clockspeeds, and we have no reason to doubt the accuracy of AMD’s performance graphs from their slides. Phoenix 2 probably is more efficient – and thus higher scoring – in heavily multithreaded scenarios.
But the central problem remains: AMD is not doing themselves a favor by failing to disclose the maximum clockspeeds of the Zen 4c cores. Despite AMD’s desire to paper over the differences, Zen 4 and Zen 4c are not identical CPU cores. Zen 4c is for all practical purposes AMD’s efficiency core, and it needs to be treated as such. Which is to say that its clockspeeds need to be disclosed separately from the other cores, similar to the kind of disclosures that Intel and Qualcomm make today.
Along these lines, AMD is also counting Zen and Zen 4c CPU cores together in their press messaging.
Would you have known that the Ryzen 3 7440U only had 1 Zen 4 CPU core if you were looking at AMD’s messaging? And how are consumers supposed to be informed of this?
At the end of the day, while Zen 4c is unique in offering identical IPC to Zen 4, AMD is doing a disservice to its customers by trying to ignore the differences between Zen 4 and Zen 4c. CPU performance is a combination of IPC and clockspeeds, and both of these things need to be acknowledged. Now that AMD has their own efficiency cores, it is AnandTech’s position that AMD also needs to make a reasonable effort to disclosure the different CPU cores used within their products, and what their clockspeeds are. Anything less than that risks deceiving customers, even if that’s not AMD’s intention.
Update: And credit where credit is due to AMD. The company has added the new parts to their product specification catalog, where the use of Zen 4 and Zen 4c cores is clearly delineated on the full specifications page for each product.
There is still some room for improvement here, as the core configuration information is still absent from the individual product pages on the main AMD website. And, of course, we need more detailed clockspeed disclosures. But this is welcome progress all the same.
Simple Scheduling: Windows Picks the Fastest Core
Getting back to technical matters, despite the not-quite-homogenous nature of AMD's CPU core allocation on Phoenix 2, thread scheduling within Windows is, thankfully, pretty straightforward. The OS's scheduler already prioritizes the CPU cores with the highest clockspeeds – a means of taking advantage of prime/favored CPU cores – so the Windows scheduler doesn't need any additional logic to deal with Zen 4c cores on the same chip. As far as Windows is concerned, they're just lower-clocked cores, which is for all intents and purposes the case here. The end result is that Windows will favor throwing higher-intensity workloads on to the fast Zen 4 cores, while lighter workloads or background tasks get relegated to the Zen 4c cores.
Unfortunately, however, because Windows sees all of the cores as identical, it also has no proper insight into energy efficiency here. Specifically, Windows has no idea that the Zen 4c cores are meant to be more energy efficient, so it will be making scheduling decisions based solely on workload/frequency metrics. This means that AMD is not able to take full advantage of the energy efficiency advantages offered by the Zen 4c CPU cores, as Windows isn't able to explicitly schedule threads on the more efficient cores. (An issue Intel gets around with their more meddlesome Thread Director)
From AMD's in-house testing, the above graph highlights a frequency/power curve that shows the Ryzen 5 7545U has the same performance as the Ryzen 7540U at 17.5 W in CineBench R23 MT. At 10 W, the performance on the Ryzen 5 7545U with Zen 4c is higher, while the performance benefits start to taper off as power goes above 20 W. Of course, this indicates a specific workload (CineBench R23 MT), and results may vary with workloads of different intensities.
Wrapping things up, consumer products with the AMD Zen 4c core are already shipping out as part of the ASUS ROG Ally gaming handheld through the Ryzen Z1 (non extreme), and it has been for around a month now. As for the AMD Ryzen 5 7545U and the Ryzen 3 7440U, AMD hasn't unveiled when we'll start to see notebooks shipping with these specific Zen 4c-clad processors, but we expect an announcement soon.
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Computer Hardware
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Capping off a busy month for new processor announcements, Apple this week has announced a new generation of M-series Apple Silicon processors – and with it, a newly refreshed generation of MacBook Pros. Anchored by the new M3 series of processors, Apple has opted to launch most of the stack in a single go, announcing products based on the vanilla M3, and more powerful M3 Pro and M3 Max SoCs at the same time. Built on TSMC’s N3B process, Apple is looking to once again raise the bar on both CPU and GPU performance, as well as setting a new record for the number of transistors used in a single laptop SoC.
The launch of the new M3 chips goes hand-in-hand with new MacBook Pro laptops, as well as a refreshed 24-inch iMac. But as Apple isn’t making any external design or feature changes to any of these devices – they’re all the same dimensions with the same ports and parts as before – they are a straightforward update to the internals of these devices. As a result, the star of the show for these latest product launches are the new M3 family of SoCs, and the features and performance they bring.
With their latest generation of high-performance silicon for Macs (and, undoubtedly, high-end iPads), Apple is seemingly taking full advantage of the density and power improvements offered by TSMC’s N3B process. But at the same time, they are also changing how their SoCs are configured; the M3 Pro in particular is a significant departure from its predecessor. So although the M3 chips do not in and of themselves rise to the level of “groundbreaking”, there are some important changes here that we’ll be taking a look at.
Apple Silicon M3 SoCs SoC M3 Max M3 Pro M3 CPU: Performance 12-Core 6-Core 4-Core CPU: Efficiency 4-Core 6-Core 4-Core GPU 40-Core 18-Core 10-Core Display Controller 5 Displays
(1 Internal + 4 External) 3 Displays
(1 Internal + 2 External) 2 Displays
(1 Internal + 1 External) Neural Engine 16-Core
18 TOPS (FP16) Memory
Controller LPDDR5-6400
32x 16-bit CH (512-bit)
400GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) LPDDR5-6400
12x 16-bit CH (192-bit)
150GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) LPDDR5-6400
8x 16-bit CH (128-bit)
100GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) Memory Capacity 128GB 36GB 24GB Encode/
Decode 8K
H.264, H.265, ProRes, ProRes RAW, AV1 (Decode) USB USB4/Thunderbolt 4
6x Ports? USB4/Thunderbolt 4
4x Ports? USB4/Thunderbolt 4
2x Ports Transistors 92 Billion 37 Billion 25 Billion Mfc. Process TSMC N3B
Starting things off, let’s take a look at the specifications for the three new M3 chips. With all three chips being released within a month’s time (technically the M3 Max devices don’t land until mid-November), this is the most ambitious launch yet of a new generation of M-series chips. Typically, Apple starts small and works their way up – e.g. M2 and then following with the Pro and Max variants farther down the line – but this time we’re getting what’s presumably all of the monolithic (and laptop-suitable) silicon parts in a single go.
But Apple is also starting smaller in terms of volume. The company is using these new chips for updates to the MacBook Pro lineup and an iMac, some of the company’s more expensive (and widely thought to be lower volume) products. This is in contrast to starting with the MacBook Air and other cheaper devices, which consume a much larger volume of entry-level chips. There’s a good chance that this is due to Apple’s decision to use a bleeding-edge node like N3B (a node they’re one of the only customers for), which would bring with it fresh chip yield and volume bottlenecks. But, of course, Apple will never confirm this. Either way, they’ve turned their chip launch strategy on its head for this generation by starting with more expensive devices first.
All three chips share a common architecture, and, broadly speaking, are scaled up versions of that architecture with more cores, more I/O, and a larger number of memory channels. The smallest chip, the M3, starts things off at 25 billion transistors (5B more than the M2), and things top out at the ridiculously stuffed M3 Max and its 92 billion transistors. While Apple supplies die photos (a true rarity in the industry these days), they do not supply die sizes, so we’ll have to see how these die sizes measure up once devices ship.
While Apple has not officially disclosed the process used besides it being a 3nm design, given that the only TSMC 3nm line that would have been available for this kind of high-volume production would have been their N3B line, it’s a very safe bet that we’re looking at N3B here, which was also used on the A17. According to TSMC official figures, N3B offers great transistor density, with a 42% reduction in feature size and a roughly 25% reduction in iso-power. But even so, the M3 Max is particular is still going to be a chonky chip.
Elsewhere, there doesn’t appear to be any changes to the types of memory Apple supports. The company’s bandwidth figures are, in a couple of cases, identical to the M2 series figures, indicating that the company is still using LPDDR5-6400 memory. This is a bit surprising to see, as faster LPDDR5X memory is readily available, and Apple’s GPU-heavy designs tend to benefit greatly from additional memory bandwidth. The big question at this point is whether this is because of technical limitations (e.g. Apple’s memory controllers don’t support LPDDR5X) or if Apple has made an intentional decision to stick with regular LPDDR5.
M3 CPU Architecture: Ambiguously Faster
On the architecture front, Apple is unfortunately being rather ambiguous about the CPU and GPU architectures used within the M3 family of SoCs. In fact, the company has kept a tighter grip on leaks there throughout the year – even now we don’t know the codenames of the CPU cores used in the A17 SoC.
In any case, given Apple’s shared use of CPU architecture between the A and M-series of chips, we’ve undoubtedly seen these CPU cores before. The question is whether we’re looking at the CPU cores from the recently launched A17 SoC, or the CPU cores from the A16 (Everest and Sawtooth). The A17 is the more likely candidate, especially since Apple already has working IP for N3B. But strictly speaking, we don’t have enough information to rule out the A16 CPU cores at this time; especially as Apple is not offering any guidance on the architectural improvements that the M3 family’s CPU cores offer over the M2.
What we do know at this time is that, versus the M2 family, Apple is touting a roughly 15% improvement in the performance of its high-performance CPU cores. Or if you prefer an M1 comparison, a 30% improvement. Apple did not disclose the benchmark(s) or settings used to make this determination, so there’s not much we can say about how realistic that estimate is. Or, for that matter, how much of it comes from IPC uplift versus clockspeed uplift.
Meanwhile the efficiency cores have been improved upon as well, and according to Apple the gains are greater than with the high-performance cores. The M3 family efficiency cores are 30% faster than the M2’s, or a full 50% faster than the M1’s.
On their website, Apple has published application specific benchmarks, though these are system-level benchmarks. And many of which comingle CPU and GPU gains. Which are certainly going to be relevant to the users of those applications, but they don’t tell us much about the CPU cores themselves.
Apple’s equally nebulous performance/power curve graphs also largely reiterate these claims, while confirming that the long-term trend of perf/power curves getting flatter is holding. Case in point: Apple claims that the M3 can deliver the same CPU performance as the M1 at half the power; but peak-to-peak performance is only around 40% higher at iso-power.
Successive generations of process technology have continued to chip away at power usage from an iso-performance standpoint, but they’ve done relatively little to unlock higher clockspeeds. This makes continued performance gains from higher clockspeeds relatively expensive with regards to power, which in turn has pushed chip vendors to increase their power consumption overall. Even the M3 doesn’t escape this, as its peak power consumption is higher than the M1’s, according to Apple’s graph.
M3 GPU Architecture: A New Architecture with Mesh Shading & Ray Tracing
Meanwhile, on the GPU side of matters, the M3 family of chips packs a more substantial GPU architecture update. While Apple is as tight-lipped as always on the underlying organization of the GPU architecture, from a feature standpoint the new architecture is bringing some major new features to Apple’s platform: mesh shading and ray tracing.
These same features were also introduced with Apple’s A17 SoC for the iPhone 15 Pro family, and this is almost certainly a larger implementation of that architecture, as has been the case in prior generations. As we’re dealing with laptops and desktops here, these features would put the M3 GPU roughly on par with the latest discrete GPU designs from NVIDIA/AMD/Intel, all of whom have offered similar features for a couple of years now. In Windows parlance, the M3 GPU architecture would be a DirectX 12 Ultimate-class (feature level 12_2) design, making Apple the second vendor to ship such a high-feature integrated GPU within a laptop SoC.
At this point ray tracing needs little introduction, as the GPU/graphics industry as a whole has been promoting the far more physically accurate form of rendering heavily for the last half decade. Mesh shading, on the other hand, is less well known since it improves the efficiency of the rendering pipeline rather than unlocking new graphical effects. Its significance should not be underestimated, however; mesh shading upends the entire geometry rendering pipeline to allow for far more geometric detail at usable frame rates. It’s very much a “baseline” feature – developers need to design the core of their engines around it – so it won’t see much in the way of initial adoption, but it will eventually be a make-or-break feature that serves as the demarcation point for compatibility with pre-M3 GPUs. This is something we’re already seeing on the PC today with games such as the recently-released Alan Wake II.
This GPU generation also comes with a new memory management feature/strategy, which Apple is dubbing “Dynamic Caching.” Based on the limited description within Apple’s product showcase, it appears the company has undertaken a new effort to better control and allocate the memory used by its iGPU, preventing it from allocating more memory than it actually needs. It’s common for GPUs to over allocate memory (better to have it and not need it than the inverse), but it’s wasteful, especially on a unified memory platform. As a result, as Apple puts it “only the exact amount of memory needed is used for each task,”
Notably, this feature is transparent to developers, and operates entirely on a hardware level. So whatever Apple is doing under the hood, it’s being abstracted away from developers and users alike. Though users will ultimately stand to benefit from more free RAM, which is unambiguously a good thing when Apple’s minimum configuration for an M3 Mac is still 8GB of RAM.
More curious, however, is Apple’s claims that this will also improve GPU performance. Specifically, that dynamic caching will “dramatically” improve the average utilization of the GPU. It’s not immediately clear how memory allocation and GPU utilization are related, unless Apple is targeting a corner-case where workloads were having to constantly swap to storage due to a lack of RAM. Either way, Apple considers this feature a cornerstone of the new GPU architecture, and it will warrant a closer look in the future.
With regards to performance, however, Apple is providing very little guidance. In past generations, the company at least provided a general compute throughput number for their GPUs, such as 5.6 TFLOPS for the vanilla M2 GPU. But for the M3 GPUs, we’re not getting any such throughput figures. So it is unclear, at best, how much faster these GPUs are in existing applications/games, or how much faster they could be. Apple is quoting a 2.5x figure on their product page, but checking the notes, this is Redshift with hardware RT (M3) versus software RT (everything else).
At best, Apple did show a GPU performance/power curve chart in their presentation, comparing the M3 to the M1. Apple again claims the M3 consumes half the power at iso-performance. Meanwhile performance at iso-power (peak M1, ~12.5W) is roughly 50% higher. But the M3’s GPU power limit is also significantly higher, reaching to about 17 Watts. Which unlocks further performance, but again consumes a fair bit more power – and doesn’t tell us how the M3 GPU compares to the M2.
M3 NPU: A Bit Faster, But Not Architecturally Updated?
Last, but not least, let’s take a quick look at the M3’s NPU, the Neural Engine. At a high-level, this is once again a 16-core design. Apple claims that it offers 18 TOPS of performance, about 14% more than the M2’s NPU (Apple’s official figures have it at 15%, most likely due to dropping decimals). All three M3 chips seem to have the same 16-core NPU design, and thus should all have similar performance.
The 18 TOPS figure raises an eyebrow, however. As pointed out to me by former ATer (and potato enthusiast) Dr. Ian Cutress, 18 TOPS is actually slower than the NPU in the A17 SoC, which Apple quotes at 35 TOPS.
So what’s going on?
With the A17 SoC launch, Apple started quoting INT8 performance figures, versus what we believe to be INT16/FP16 figures for previous versions of the NPU (both for A-series and M-series). The lower precision of that format allows for it to be processed at a higher rate (trading precision for throughput), thus the higher quoted figure.
The 18 TOPS figure here is clearly INT16/FP16 performance, as that’s consistent with past M-series claims and Apple’s own chart. The question is leaves lingering, then, is whether the NPU in the M3 even supports INT8, given that it was just recently added for the A17. Either it does support INT8, in which case Apple is struggling with consistent messaging here, or it’s an older generation of the NPU architecture that lacks INT8 support.
The discrepancy is overall more of a curiosity than a concern. But it will be interesting to see if Apple has kept their NPU architectures for the A and M-series at parity, or if we’re seeing a divergence for this generation.
Just The Specs: M3 vs. M2 vs. M1
Getting back to speeds and feeds, I’ve also put together specification tables for each tier of M-series processors, comparing them to their immediate predecessors. This helps to better illustrate how these parts have evolved over time in terms of core counts, performance, memory support, and I/O.
Apple M-Series (Vanilla) SoCs SoC M3 M2 M1 CPU Performance 4-core 4-core (Avalanche)
16MB Shared L2 4-core (Firestorm)
12MB Shared L2 CPU Efficiency 4-core 4-core (Blizzard)
4MB Shared L2 4-core (Icestorm)
4MB Shared L2 GPU 10-Core
New Architecture - Mesh Shaders & Ray Tracing 10-Core
3.6 TFLOPS 8-Core
2.6 TFLOPS Display Controller 2 Displays
(1 Internal + 1 External) 2 Displays
(1 Internal + 1 External) 2 Displays
(1 Internal + 1 External) Neural Engine 16-Core
18 TOPS 16-Core
15.8 TOPS 16-Core
11 TOPS Memory
Controller LPDDR5-6400
8x 16-bit CH
100GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) LPDDR5-6400
8x 16-bit CH
100GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) LPDDR4X-4266
8x 16-bit CH
68GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) Memory Capacity 24GB 24GB 16GB Encode/
Decode 8K
H.264, H.265, ProRes, ProRes RAW, AV1 (Decode) 8K
H.264, H.265, ProRes, ProRes RAW 4K
H.264, H.265 USB USB4/Thunderbolt 4
2x Ports USB4/Thunderbolt 3
2x Ports USB4/Thunderbolt 3
2x Ports Transistors 25 Billion 20 Billion 16 Billion Mfc. Process TSMC N3B TSMC N5P TSMC N5
The vanilla line of M-series is the most straightforward of the family. The first of the M-series chips altogether, Apple has continued to grow the capabilities and the performance of the chip. But they have not added much in the way of functional blocks/cores. Three generations in now, and we’re still looking at 4P+4E CPU design, while the GPU has grown from 8 cores in the first generation to 10 cores in the M2 and M3.
Feeding the tiny beast has been a consistent 128-bit memory bus. With Apple not adopting LPDDR5X for this generation of the M-series, memory bandwidth remains unchanged from the M2, with up to 24GB of LPDDR5-6400 allowing for a 100GB/second of total memory bandwidth.
The limited I/O of the chip has also remained throughout the generations. The M3 can drive two 40Gbps USB4/Thunderbolt ports, the same as the M2 and M1. As well, there remains support for just two displays – the internal display, as well as a single external display.
Despite the lack of an increase in core counts, the transistor count has continued to grow over the generations, as new features and more complex core designs eat up larger transistor budgets. At 25 billion transistors, the M3 has 25% more transistors than the M2, or 56% more than the M1.
Apple M-Series Pro SoCs SoC M3 Pro M2 Pro M1 Pro CPU Performance 6-core 8-core (Avalanche)
32MB Shared L2 8-core (Firestorm)
24MB Shared L2 CPU Efficiency 6-core 4-core (Blizzard)
4MB Shared L2 2-core (Icestorm)
4MB Shared L2 GPU 18-Core
New Architecture - Mesh Shaders & Ray Tracing 19-Core
6.8 TFLOPS 16-Core
5.2 TFLOPS Display Controller 3 Displays
(1 Internal + 2 External) 3 Displays
(1 Internal + 2 External) 3 Displays
(1 Internal + 2 External) Neural Engine 16-Core
18 TOPS 16-Core
15.8 TOPS 16-Core
11 TOPS Memory
Controller LPDDR5-6400
12x 16-bit CH (192-bit)
150GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) LPDDR5-6400
16x 16-bit CH (256-bit)
200GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) LPDDR5-6400
16x 16-bit CH (256-bit)
200GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) Memory Capacity 36GB 32GB 32GB Encode/
Decode 8K
H.264, H.265, ProRes, ProRes RAW, AV1 (Decode) 8K
H.264, H.265, ProRes, ProRes RAW 8K
H.264, H.265, ProRes, ProRes RAW USB USB4/Thunderbolt 4
4x Ports? USB4/Thunderbolt 4
4x Ports USB4/Thunderbolt 4
2x Ports Transistors 37 Billion 40 Billion 33.7 Billion Mfc. Process TSMC N3B TSMC N5P TSMC N5
Things take a more interesting path with the M3 Pro, however. Unlike its siblings, which build upon their predecessors in a relatively straightforward fashion, for the third generation of M-series chips, Apple has rebalanced the M3 Pro. As a result, it has some significant differences from the M2 Pro in terms of configuration, and in terms of transistor count it has not been growing like the other chips.
Starting with the CPU cores, while the M3 Pro has 12 CPU cores in total like the M2 Pro, the balance between performance and efficiency cores has shifted. Specifically, it’s gone from an 8P + 4E design to a 6P + 6E design. And while all of the CPU cores in total are more performant than their M2 counterparts, this is why Apple’s official performance figures for the M2 Pro-equipped MacBook Pros show them only offering slim gains in CPU performance. For multithreading-heavy workloads, there really hasn’t been an increase in computational hardware.
The GPU core count has also slipped some, as well. The M3 architecture GPU offers 18 cores, versus the 19 found on the M2 Pro. This is as opposed to the vanilla M3 or M3 Max, which either held even or received a slight increase in GPU cores, respectively.
Finally, feeding all of this is a noticeably smaller memory bus. Both the M1 Pro and M2 Pro were equipped with a 256-bit LPDDR5 memory bus, which when populated with LPDDR5-6400, allowed for 200GB of aggregate memory bandwidth to the SoC. However on the M3 Pro, Apple has clearly cut the memory bus to 192-bits wide – removing a quarter of the memory bus – which in turn has decreased memory bandwidth by 25%, to 150GB/second.
The combination of these changes means that the M3 Pro, at a high level, looks more like a more powerful vanilla M3 than it does a cut-down M3 Max. Which, in some respects, is just a half-full/half-empty mindset. But overall, the balanced ratio of performance and efficiency CPU cores is much closer to the M3’s design, as is the total memory bandwidth. M3 Pro should still be noticeably faster than the M3, but in some areas it’s going to end up being a sidegrade from the M2 Pro in terms of performance.
Apple’s more conservative stance with the M3 Pro is also reflected in its transistor count. The number of transistors on the M3 Pro has actually gone down from the M2 generation – from 40 billion to 37 billion. So irrespective of the process node used, this is a slightly simpler chip overall. And compared to the M1 Pro, the transistor count has only marginally grown (~10%) over the previous two generations.
As for why Apple isn’t bulking up the M3 Pro like they have the other M3 SoCs, anything at this point would be a guess. But at a fundamental level, the M3 Pro should be meaningfully cheaper to produce than the M2 Pro, thanks to a combination of lower transistor count and smaller die size. N3B yields may play a part here (lower yields equal a higher effective cost for chips), but only TSMC and Apple know whether that’s truly the case.
Power consumption may also be a factor here, especially with the CPU core rebalance. 8 performance cores make for great performance, but they can certainly suck down a lot of power. The Max SoCs, to an extent, can get away with this because they’re top-tier chips that also go into high-end desktops and are otherwise aimed at desktop-replacement class laptop users. But for more mobile Mac users, Apple may be making a play to keep down power consumption by tamping down on performance growth.
For these reasons, it will be interesting to see how review benchmarks pan out. While this is unlikely to be a story Apple will ever tell, the performance and power consumption of their laptops should be able to tell a lot of the story for them.
Apple M-Series Max SoCs SoC M3 Max M2 Max M1 Max CPU Performance 12-core 8-core (Avalanche)
32MB Shared L2 8-core (Firestorm)
24MB Shared L2 CPU Efficiency 4-core 4-core (Blizzard)
4MB Shared L2 2-core (Icestorm)
4MB Shared L2 GPU 40-Core
New Architecture - Mesh Shaders & Ray Tracing 38-Core
13.6 TFLOPS 32-Core
10.4 TFLOPS Display Controller 5 Displays
(1 Internal + 4 External) 5 Displays
(1 Internal + 4 External) 5 Displays
(1 Internal + 4 External) Neural Engine 16-Core
18 TOPS 16-Core
15.8 TOPS 16-Core
11 TOPS Memory
Controller LPDDR5-6400
32x 16-bit CH (256-bit)
400GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) LPDDR5-6400
32x 16-bit CH (256-bit)
400GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) LPDDR5-6400
32x 16-bit CH (256-bit)
400GB/sec Total Bandwidth (Unified) Memory Capacity 128GB 96GB 64GB Encode/
Decode 8K
H.264, H.265, ProRes, ProRes RAW, AV1 (Decode) 8K
H.264, H.265, ProRes, ProRes RAW 8K
H.264, H.265, ProRes, ProRes RAW USB USB4/Thunderbolt 4
6x Ports? USB4/Thunderbolt 4
6x Ports? USB4/Thunderbolt 4
4x Ports Transistors 92 Billion 67 Billion 57 Billion Mfc. Process TSMC N3B TSMC N5P TSMC N5
Finally, we have the biggest and badest of the monolithic M-series chip line, the Maxes. The Max chips have always pushed the envelope on core counts and transistor counts, and unlike the M3 Pro, the M3 Max continues this tradition.
Compared to its M2 predecessor, Apple has added another 4 performance CPU cores here, bringing it to a total of 12 performance cores and 4 efficiency cores. And making it the only M3 chip to get an increase in performance CPU cores. As a result, this will be the sole M3 chip that, at least in favorable thermal conditions, should see a significant increase in multithreaded CPU performance. Though “favorable thermal conditions” really is the operative word there, as this is a very powerful chip to cool.
On the GPU side of matters, the GPU core count has been increased slightly, going from 38 cores on the M2 Max to 40 cores on the M3 Max. Absent any good performance figures from Apple, it’s hard to estimate how much faster this will be in practice.
Feeding the M3 Max is the same 512-bit LPDDR5 memory bus as on the previous two editions of the chip. Notably, this means that Apple’s available memory bandwidth hasn’t increased over the past two generations to keep up with the larger number of CPU and GPU cores, so the company will need to be extracting more efficiency (and cache hits) from their chip architecture to keep the SoC well-fed.
Looking at Apple’s official chip photo, we can see that Apple is once again using their bespoke x128 organization LPDDR5 memory chips, allowing them to have a 512-bit memory bus attached to just 4 chips. The maximum memory capacity in this generation has gone up to 128GB, which has interesting implications for the dies used within these memory chips. Unless Apple is doing something truly crazy, the only way to get 128GB of LPDDR5 would be to use 32Gbit LPDDR5 dies (32 in all). I’m not aware of anyone currently offering dies at that capacity, so it would seem Apple has secured first-dibs on that memory from whoever is offering it. For everyone else, we should see 128GB LPDDR5(X) configurations become available on Windows laptops later next year.
With the addition of CPU cores, GPU cores, and the general increase in the complexity of the various building blocks of the chip, the total transistor count of the M3 Max has ballooned to 92 billion transistors. This is 37% more transistors than the M2 Max, and 15% more (12 billion) than even NVIDIA’s massive GH100 server GPU, which is built on TSMC’s N4 process. The N3B-built M3 Max should be significantly smaller (under 400mm2?), but by laptop standards this is still a massive chip – never mind what happens if and when Apple puts two of them together for an Ultra configuration. However much Apple is paying TSMC for these chips, it can’t be cheap – but then how many other vendors are designing laptop SoCs with more transistors than most server chips?
M3 MacBook Pros: Coming Next Week
Wrapping things up, we’ll get to see Apple’s new M3 chips in action sooner than later. The company has already opened up pre-orders for the new MacBook Pro laptops, with the M3 and M3 Pro models expected to be delivered as soon as November 7th.
Meanwhile the M3 Max will be a bit farther behind, with Apple saying to expect them a bit later in November. Looking at the delivery estimates in Apple’s store, they shouldn’t be too far back – current delivery estimates have the laptops arriving by November 14th.
At this point Apple has retired all of their M2 Pro and M2 Max-based laptops – as well as the M2-based 13-inch MacBook Pro – so this looks to be a very quick transition on the laptop side of matters. Apple is still using the M2 Pro/Max chips in their desktop parts, such as the Mac Studio, but with all 3 M3 mono-dies already available, it’s only a matter of time until Apple gets around to upgrading their desktop line up as well.
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Computer Hardware
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Samsung's upcoming Galaxy Book 4 Ultra laptop featuring the next-gen Intel Core Ultra "Meteor Lake" CPUs has been spotted & is being sold online for over $1700 US.
Intel Core Ultra 7 155H "Meteor Lake" CPU & NVIDIA RTX 4050 GPU Power Mainstream Samsung Galaxy Book 4 Ultra Laptop
Samsung's next-gen Galaxy Book 4 lineup will include a range of products featuring the Intel Core Ultra "Meteor Lake" & Core "Raptor Lake Refresh" CPUs. These laptops mainly target the entry-level and mainstream segment but the Galaxy Book 4 Ultra series will get a big boost in terms of specs with up to Core Ultra 9 185H CPUs and up to NVIDIA RTX 4070 GPUs. There will still be mainstream options within the Ultra lineup and one such configuration has been leaked.
Spotted by @Tech_Reve, the Samsung Galaxy Book 4 Ultra laptop was leaked over at a Chinese 3rd party seller, GooFish, and comes packed with the Intel Core Ultra 7 155H CPU. This CPU features 16 cores in a 6+8+2 configuration, 22 threads, a base clock of 3.8 GHz a boost clock of up to 4.8 GHz, 24 MB of L3 cache, and a 28W TDP.
Image Source: @Tech_Reve
Although Intel's Meteor Lake CPUs will be getting a major upgrade in the integrated graphics department with their Arc Xe-LPG GPUs based on the Alchemist architecture, Samsung is still adding dedicated graphics to the laptop in the form of an NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050 6 GB GPU.
NVIDIA's RTX 4050 6 GB is an entry-level design but considering that Arc iGPUs are supposed to offer performance levels on par with GTX 1060 / GTX 1660 series GPUs, the RTX 4050 would be offering better performance at the cost of slightly higher power draw, leading to lower battery times. Users can however switch between the dGPU and iGPU depending on their usage since Intel's Arc iGPU would still offer all the video encode/decode and processing capabilities as a modern-day discrete GPU while being very efficient. The screen is a 2880x1800 OLED panel with a 120Hz refresh rate.
Image Source: Goofish
As for other specifications of this particular Samsung Galaxy Book 4 Ultra laptop are concerned, it features 32 GB of LPDDR5X-7500 memory, WIFI 6E support, and 1 TB of NVMe SSD storage. The overall features of the laptop include:
Intel Core Ultra 7 155H CPU (16 Cores / 22 Threads)
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050 6 GB Discrete GPU
16" OLED Display (2880x1800) @ 120Hz
Up To 32 GB LPDDR5X-7500 Memory
1 TB NVMe SSD Storage
Touch Screen
WIFI 6E & BT 5.2 Support
There's no word on pricing or availability but we are expecting to see the launch of these laptops in early 2024. The seller is asking 12600 RMB which converts to $1765 US. Meanwhile, ASUS & ACER along with various other OEMs have ramped up their marketing for the upcoming Intel Core Ultra launch and are mainly promoting the laptops as "AI" PCs.
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Intel 14th Gen Meteor Lake CPU Family "Preliminary":
CPU Name Process Node Core Configuration Threads (Total) Base / Boost Clock L3 Cache TDP Intel Core Ultra 9 185H Intel 4 6+8+2 (16) 22 3.8 GHz / 5.1 GHz 24 MB 45W Intel Core Ultra 7 165H Intel 4 6+8+2 (16) 22 3.8 GHz / 5.0 GHz 24 MB 28W Intel Core Ultra 7 155H Intel 4 6+8+2 (16) 22 3.8 GHz / 4.8 GHz 24 MB 28W Intel Core Ultra 5 135H Intel 4 4+8+2 (14) 18 3.6 GHz / TBD 20 MB 28W Intel Core Ultra 5 125H Intel 4 4+8+2 (14) 18 3.6 GHz / 4.5 GHz 20 MB 28W Intel Core Ultra 7 155U Intel 4 12+2 (14) 14 2.7 GHz / 4.8 GHz 24 MB 15W Intel Core Ultra 5 135U Intel 4 2+8+2 (14) 14 2.1 GHz / 4.4 GHz 12 MB 15W Intel Core Ultra 5 125U Intel 4 TBD 18 TBD 20 MB 15W Intel Core Ultra 7 164U Intel 4 TBD 22 TBD 24 MB 9W Intel Core Ultra 5 134U Intel 4 TBD 18 TBD 20 MB 9W
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Computer Hardware
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In the realm of power supply units (PSUs), the core underpinning of any high-performance computing system, seasoned market players have continually raised the bar in delivering efficient, reliable, and technologically superior products. One such stalwart in the PSU domain is SeaSonic, whose meticulous engineering and innovation have repeatedly set industry benchmarks.
In today’s review, we are having a look at the ATX 3.0 upgrade of SeaSonic’s revered Focus series, which epitomizes a fine balance between cost and performance aimed at catering to a broad spectrum of PC enthusiasts and builders. It is the successor of the Focus Plus series, which used to be SeaSonic’s most popular series over the past several years.
The new Focus GX series consists of five units with a power output ranging from 550 Watts to 1.000 Watts. It is the second most powerful unit of the series that we will be putting to the test, the Focus GX-850. SeaSonic is placing its marketing efforts mostly on the exceedingly long 10-year manufacturer’s warranty, its compact size, the 80Plus Gold efficiency certification, and the modular design.
SeaSonic Focus GX-850 ATX 3.0 (SSR-850FX3)
Power specifications ( Rated @ 50 °C ) RAIL +3.3V +5V +12V +5Vsb -12V MAX OUTPUT 20A 20A 70A 3A 0.3A 100W 840W 15W 3.6W TOTAL 850W AC INPUT 100 - 240 VAC, 50 - 60 Hz MSRP $168
Packaging and Bundle
SeaSonic supplies the Focus GX-850 in a sturdy cardboard box with black-gold artwork based on simple geometric shapes. The PSU is sandwiched between two packaging foam pieces and is placed inside a nylon pouch, ensuring safe shipping.
The bundle accompanying the GX-850 is relatively rich for what is supposed to be a mainstream PSU. Aside from the standard AC power cable and four mounting screws, SeaSonic also provides a number of cable ties, cable straps, a full manual, and a 24-pin connector jumper that can be used to power the PSU without connecting it to a motherboard.
The modular cables of the Focus GX-850 are all identical, with individually sleeved black wires and black connectors. This includes even the 12VHPWR cable, making this the first time we saw a manufacturer changing that particular cable to match the rest of the unit’s cables.
SeaSonic Focus GX-850 ATX 3.0 Connector type Hardwired Modular ATX 24 Pin - 1 EPS 4+4 Pin - 2 EPS 8 Pin - - PCI-E 5.0 - 1 PCI-E 8 Pin - 3 SATA - 10 Molex - 3 Floppy - 1
The SeaSonic Focus GX-850 Gold PSU
External Appearance
Despite its ample power provision, SeaSonic has successfully housed the new Focus GX-850 within the conventional ATX dimensions of 150 × 140 × 86 mm (W×D×H), ensuring its compatibility across a broad range of ATX-compliant enclosures, including Desktop HTPC and other compact configurations. The electrical specifications and certifications sticker is located on the top surface of the unit.
SeaSonic typically maintains a minimalist approach towards aesthetics, but the Focus GX-850 stands as a deviation. The design has been elevated beyond mere paintwork, showcasing a distinctive fan grill at the bottom of the chassis. It is adorned with a grey badge at its center and black accents encircling the fan, replacing the previous gold and grey scheme. The embossed geometric motifs on the lateral sides of the PSU have been retained, with the company and series logos subtly highlighted on all faces of the unit.
In addition to the standard small on/off switch and AC cable receptacle, SeaSonic has incorporated a square locking switch on the PSU's rear side. This switch facilitates the management of the cooling fan's hybrid control mode. This mode is activated by default, allowing the fan to engage only when the load escalates to a level necessitating active cooling. When deactivated, the fan’s speed continues to be thermally regulated, albeit without ever coming to a complete halt. The front of the chassis houses the connectors for the modular cables. Although the connectors are not color-coded, a basic legend is imprinted on the chassis to guide the cable connections. The PCI Express and CPU 12V cables utilize identical connectors, negating the possibility of erroneous cable insertion owing to the distinct connector designs and keyed configurations.
Internal Design
SeaSonic once again entrusted the cooling of their Focus series to Hong Hua and their HA13525H12F-Z 120 mm fan. It is a visually simple black fan but features a high-quality Fluid Dynamic Bearing (FDB), with SeaSonic promising high life expectancy and relatively low noise figures. It has a maximum rotational speed of 2000 RPM, an average figure for a 120 mm fan.
SeaSonic is both the designer and manufacturer of their units, negating the need for us to identify an underlying OEM with their products. At first glance, it allows us to realize that, unlike many other manufacturers, SeaSonic’s engineers took major steps in redesigning the platform that the previous Focus series was based upon to fully comply with the ATX 3.0 specification. The unit's interior is extremely tidy, without a single loose cable, as the PCBs are connected via solid copper bridges.
The filtering stage begins on the small PCB at the rear of the AC receptacle and continues onto the main PCB, with a total of four Y capacitors, two X capacitors, and two filtering inductors. Two bridge rectifiers share the same heatsink with half the inversion transistors of the primary stage.
Nippon Chemi-Con supplies the massive 680μF capacitor of the APFC stage, which is placed next to an equally large filtering inductor. The active PCF components, two 6R190P6 power transistors and a diode can be found on the long heatsink across the edge of the PCB. SeaSonic implemented a full-bridge LLC inversion stage, a rare sight inside a mainstream unit. Two of the power transistors (GPT13N50DG) are on their separate heatsink, and two share the heatsink with the input rectifiers.
On the other side of the transformer and the underside of the main PCB, four IC840L MOSFETs generate the single 12V line. The DC-to-DC converters for the 5V and 3.3V voltage lines can be seen on the vertical daughterboard that also hosts the fan’s controller. The secondary side capacitors are a mix of Rubycon, Nippon Chemi-Con, and Nichicon products, all of which are from Japanese manufacturers.
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Computer Hardware
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The performance of ultra-compact form-factor (UCFF) desktops has improved significantly since the introduction of the Intel NUC in the early 2010s. In addition to advancements in semiconductor fabrication and processor architecture, thermal solutions suitable for these 4in. x 4in. machines have also been evolving simultaneously. As a result, vendors have been able to configure higher sustained power limits for the processors in these systems. From the 17W TDP processor used in the first-generation 4x4 NUC, the form-factor moved on to 28W in the late 2010s. The processors in the latest flagship 4x4 NUCs are configured with a 40W sustained power limit.
Intel and AMD have been officially allowing configurable TDPs for their notebook segment offerings for a few years now. This has prompted some vendors to introduce UCFF systems with regular 45W TDP processors (albeit, in cTDP-down mode). GEEKOM became one of the first vendors to release a Core i9-based UCFF machines with the launch of the Mini IT13. Based on paper specifications, this high-end Raptor Lake-H (RPL-H) UCFF desktop is meant to give the mainstream RPL-P NUCs stiff competition in both performance and price.
GEEKOM sent over the flagship configuration - a Mini IT13 equipped with a Core i9-13900H, a 2TB SSD and 32GB of DRAM - to put through our evaluation routine for small form-factor computing systems. This review explores the performance profile and value proposition of the system, along with analysis of the tradeoffs involved in cramming a 45W TDP processor into a 4x4 machine.
Introduction and Product Impressions
The days of bulky desktops are getting numbered for many use-cases, with small form-factor (SFF) systems replacing them. The rapid growth in this segment has led to the rise of many Asian vendors focusing on these systems. GEEKOM is a private label brand of Shenzhen Jiteng Network Technology Co., Ltd. - an OEM / ODM for small form-factor computing systems. The company manufactures both Intel and AMD-based systems. The private label started off with a few entry-level systems (such as the MiniAir 11) , but has since branched out to introduce machines with leading-edge processors. The company had announced the Raptor Lake-H-based Mini IT13 within a few days of the launch of the SimplyNUC Onyx. While the Onyx is still in the pre-order stage, GEEKOM has been selling the Mini IT13 for a few weeks now.
GEEKOM sent over the flagship Mini IT13 configuration for review. The Intel Core i8-13900H processor in the Mini IT13 review system has a six performance cores and eight efficiency cores for a total of 20 threads. Compared to the RPL-P processors used in the flagship mainstream 4x4 NUCs, this RPL-H processor has two extra performance cores and a higher maximum turbo frequency (up to 5.4 GHz, against RPL-P's maximum 5.0 GHz). The processor is fabricated in the Intel 7 process.
GEEKOM's package for the Mini IT13 is spartan - the main unit is accompanied by a welcome card, VESA mount with associated screws, an installation guide, HDMI cable, and a 120W (19V @ 6.32A) AC adapter with a geo-specific power cord.
The main unit clocks in at 117mm x 112mm x 49.2mm, with a weight of 652g. The system is sized to accept a 2.5" drive, and that makes it comparable to the full-height mainstream NUCs such as the NUC13ANHi7 Arena Canyon SKU measuring 117mm x 112mm x 54mm. The larger dimensions allow for a wider variety of ports in the systems compared to regular NUCs.
GEEKOM does not sell barebones versions of the Mini IT13. A SSD, DRAM, and a pre-installed copy of Windows 11 Pro are also provided. In keeping with the premium nature of the Core i8-13900H, the configuration with that CPU includes a 2TB SSD and 32GB of RAM.
Unlike the GEEKOM AS6, the board and chassis design are fairly straightforward and similar to the NUCs.
The DDR4 SODIMM slots and the Gen4 x4 M.2 SSD slots on the motherboard are pre-populated in the GEEKOM configurations. The WLAN / BT module interfaces with the CPU over CNVi and is under the NVMe SSD slot (similar to the mainstream NUCs). There is a metal frame that is built around the 2.5" drive slot, and a thermal pad is affixed to it to provide heat transfer support from the M.2 2280 NVMe SSD. Our review configuration was equipped with 2x Lexar LD4AS016G-3200ST DDR4-3200 SODIMMs and a Lexar SSD NM7A1 Gen4 x4 M.2 2280 NVMe SSD. Windows 11 Professional came pre-installed.
The full specifications of the review sample (as tested) are summarized in the table below. The Core i9-13900H has a TDP of 45W, and a minimum power (cTDP-down) of 35W. As we shall see in our BIOS options analysis and detailed investigation into the thermal characteristics in a later section, the form-factor of the system and the notebook-style thermal solution restricts the operation of the processor in a 35W cTDP mode.
GEEKOM Mini IT13 Specifications
(as tested) Processor Intel Core i9-13900H
Raptor Lake (6P + 8E)/20T, up to 5.4 GHz
Intel 7, 24MB L2, 45W
(PL1 = 35W, PL2 = 80W) Memory Lexar LD4AS016G-3200ST DDR4-3200 SODIMM
22-22-22-52 @ 3200 MHz
2x16 GB Graphics Intel Iris Xe Graphics
(80 EUs @ 300 - 1500 MHz) Disk Drive(s) Lexar SSD NM7A1
(2000 GB; M.2 2280 PCIe 4.0 x4 NVMe;)
(176L Micron 3D TLC?; Maxio MAP1602 Controller) Networking 1x 2.5 GbE RJ-45 (Intel I225-V)
Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX211 (2x2 802.11ax ~ 2.4 Gbps) Audio Digital Audio with Bitstreaming Support over HDMI and USB4 Ports
Front panel audio combo jack via Realtek ALC269 Video 2x DP 2.0 (1.4 certified / 8Kp30) (via USB4 Type-C in the rear)
2x HDMI 2.0 (up to 4Kp60) (rear) Miscellaneous I/O Ports 2x USB4 (Type-C / 40 Gbps) (Rear)
1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A (Rear)
1x USB 2.0 Type-A (Rear)
2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A (Front)
1x SDXC UHS-II Card Reader (Side) Operating System Windows 11 Enterprise (22000.2416) Pricing (Street Pricing on Sep 29th, 2023)
US $899 (as configured, w/OS)
(USD 859 with $40 off coupon code D9ZAYQNX)
US $789 (as configured, w/OS, GEEKOM web store)
(USD 749 with $40 off coupon code anandtech40) Full Specifications GEEKOM Mini IT13 Specifications
The next section details the the various BIOS options and follows it up with a detailed platform analysis.
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Computer Hardware
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PNY Technologies is well known in the computing industry for its NVIDIA-based graphics cards, but the company also participates in the DRAM and flash-based storage products markets. In the latter, PNY markets a range of USB flash drives, SD cards, and portable SSDs under variations of the 'Elite' tag.
The company launched two new palm-sized portable SSDs earlier this year - the Pro Elite V2 USB 3.2 Gen 2 in the 10 Gbps class, and the EliteX-PRO USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 in the 20 Gbps class. Both products are based on Phison's native USB flash drive (UFD) controllers. Both products come with a Type-C interface. While the Pro Elite V2 is available only in the 500 GB and 1 TB capacity points, the EliteX-PRO has four SKUs with capacities ranging from 500 GB to 4 TB.
The Pro Elite V2 and the EliteX-PRO have identical industrial designs and dimensions, with only the product name printed on the aluminum body serving as a differentiator. The design is reminiscent of the Samsung Portable SSD T5, but manages to retain a more compact and sleek form-factor. This review takes a detailed look at the performance and value proposition of the 1 TB Pro Elite V2 and the 4 TB EliteX-PRO, with a particular focus on how they stack up against the existing players in the segment.
Introduction and Product Impressions
Rapid advancements in flash technology (including the development of 3D NAND and improvements in TLC reliability) have been accompanied by the appearance of faster host interfaces for external devices in the last decade. Together, they have contributed to bus-powered direct-attached storage devices growing in both storage capacity and speeds. The Type-C standard has also achieved widespread acceptance in the consumer market. Protocols such as USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 / USB4 and Thunderbolt riding on top of the Type-C connector have enabled the introduction of palm-sized flash-based storage devices capable of delivering 2GBps+ speeds.
One of the primary challenges with high-speed storage devices is the thermal aspect. Bridge-based solutions with multiple protocol conversion chips tend to dissipate more power due to the additional components. High-performance portable SSDs in the past have had no option but to use them - first, with SATA bridges, and then with NVMe bridges. The introduction of native UFD controllers capable of hitting 10 Gbps and 20 Gbps from Phison and Silicon Motion has opened up yet another option in this category. The Crucial X6, equipped with the Phison U17, was reviewed in August 2021 and was one of the first retail products to surpass the SATA speeds barrier by hitting 800 MBps speeds without using a NVMe bridge. Around the same time, Silicon Motion's SM2320 powered the Kingston XS2000 to 20 Gbps speeds without a bridge in the middle.
Products based on Silicon Motion's SM2320 have gained a lot of consumer mindshare because they have typically been able to hit the interface speed limits for sequential accesses in both the 10 Gbps and 20 Gbps categories. Phison's U17 and U18 were introduced with slightly lower peak performance numbers, and despite vendors like Crucial picking them up for the X6, the products didn't make any waves. The best implementation of Phison's U17, in our opinion, was seen in the OWC Envoy Pro Mini. The introduction of faster flash has since allowed portable SSDs (PSSDs) based on the Phison's native UFD controllers to hit higher speeds. As a result, we have seen an uptick in their adoption. Products such as the Sabrent Rocket Nano v2 and the Corsair EX100U are based on the Phison U18 controller. PNY has also hitched its wagon to the Phison camp for its play in the PSSD market
PNY's 2023 PSSD lineup includes the Pro Elite V2 in the 10 Gbps category, and the EliteX-PRO in the 20 Gbps one. The galleries below present the packaging and teardown process for the two PSSDs.
Both products are similar in terms of packaging (down to the length of the supplied USB Type-C to Type-C and Type-C to Type-A cables) as well as industrial design. The main difference is in the internal PCB.
PNY Pro Elite V2 Controller - Phison U17
PNY Pro Elite V2 Flash Package - HA7HG64AWA
The 10 Gbps Pro Elite V2 is a Phison U17 design. There is space for four flash packages on the PCB, but PNY has opted only for two packages in the product's top capacity. The HA7HG64AWA is a NAND flash package with 128L 3D TLC from SK hynix. It has 8 x 512 Gbit dies for a total of 512 GB per package. There is one on each side of the PCB.
PNY EliteX-PRO Controller - Phison U18
PNY EliteX-PRO Flash Package - HA8IG64AWA
The 20 Gbps EliteX-PRO is a Phison U18 design. There is space for four flash packages on the PCB, and the 4 TB capacity version has all four slots filled up. The HA8IG64AWA is a NAND flash package with 128L 3D TLC from SK hynix. The company's 128L NAND had initially appeared in the form of 512 Gbit dies, but in the second half of 2021, 1 Tbit dies also started appearing (for example, in the 2 TB version of the SK hynix Gold P31). The HA8IG64AWA is likely equipped with 8 x 1 Tbit dies for a total of 1 TB per package. There are two on each side of the PCB in the 4 TB version.
There is no specific thermal solution for the controller or flash in either of the PSSDs. The SK hynix 128L 3D TLC NAND is noted for its power efficiency, and that probably played a role in PNY's decision. The interesting part of the EliteX-PRO PCB is the presence of two TI DDR4000 ICs. These are 1:2 DDR switches / multiplexers. On this PCB, they are used for high-speed signal switching to help interface four flash packages with the two-channel U18 controller.
The industrial design of the Pro Elite V2 and the EliteX-PRO is not unique, with many similarities to the Samsung Portable SSD T5. Thankfully, PNY has opted for an aluminum casing and this lends a solid look and feel to the PSSDs.
Since we are dealing with two different PSSD classes / capacity points, this review will include separate comparison graphs and tables for each. CrystalDiskInfo provides a quick overview of the capabilities of the internal storage device. Despite TRIM not being noted in the features list, we found NTFS volumes on both PSSDs successfully processing TRIM commands from Windows. All S.M.A.R.T features such as temperature read outs worked well.
S.M.A.R.T Passthrough for 1 TB PSSDs - CrystalDiskInfo PNY Pro Elite V2 1TB Kingston DTMAXA/1TB Samsung T7 Touch 1TB Transcend ESD310C 1TB OWC Envoy Pro Mini 1TB OWC Envoy Pro Elektron 1TB Kingston DT Max 1TB Kingston DTMAXA/1TB Samsung T7 Touch 1TB Transcend ESD310C 1TB OWC Envoy Pro Mini 1TB OWC Envoy Pro Elektron 1TB Kingston DT Max 1TB PNY Pro Elite V2 1TB
S.M.A.R.T Passthrough for 4 TB PSSDs - CrystalDiskInfo PNY EliteX-PRO 4TB Samsung T7 Shield 4TB SanDisk Extreme PRO v2 4TB Crucial X6 4TB Samsung T7 Shield 4TB SanDisk Extreme PRO v2 4TB Crucial X6 4TB PNY EliteX-PRO 4TB
The table below presents a comparative view of the specifications of the different 1 TB PSSDs presented in this review.
Comparative 1 TB Direct-Attached Storage Devices Configuration Aspect PNY Pro Elite V2 1TB Kingston DTMAXA/1TB OWC Envoy Pro Mini 1TB Samsung T7 Touch 1TB Transcend ESD310C 1TB OWC Envoy Pro Elektron 1TB Kingston DT Max 1TB Kingston DTMAXA/1TB OWC Envoy Pro Mini 1TB Samsung T7 Touch 1TB Transcend ESD310C 1TB OWC Envoy Pro Elektron 1TB Kingston DT Max 1TB PNY Pro Elite V2 1TB Downstream Port Native Flash Native Flash Upstream Port USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A (Male) Bridge Chip Phison U17 Silicon Motion SM2320 Power Bus Powered Bus Powered Use Case Light-weight 1GBps-class portable SSD in a pocketable form-factor 1GBps-class, compact USB thumb drive with retractable cover for Type-A connector Physical Dimensions 63.5 mm x 57.2 mm x 10.9 mm 91.2 mm x 22.3 mm x 9.5 mm Weight 34 grams (without cable) 14.5 grams Cable 18 cm USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C to Type-C
17 cm USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C to Type-A N/A S.M.A.R.T Passthrough Yes Yes UASP Support Yes Yes TRIM Passthrough Yes Yes Hardware Encryption Not Available Not Available Evaluated Storage SK hynix 128L 3D TLC Toshiba BiCS5 112L 3D TLC Price (Launch) USD 70 USD 180 Review Link PNY Pro Elite V2 Portable SSD 1TB Review Kingston DTMAXA/1TB Review
The equivalent comparison table for the 4 TB PSSDs is presented below.
Comparative Direct-Attached Storage Devices Configuration Aspect PNY EliteX-PRO 4TB Samsung T7 Shield 4TB SanDisk Extreme PRO v2 4TB Crucial X6 4TB Samsung T7 Shield 4TB SanDisk Extreme PRO v2 4TB Crucial X6 4TB PNY EliteX-PRO 4TB Downstream Port Native Flash PCIe 3.0 x2 Upstream Port USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C Bridge Chip Phison U18 ASMedia ASM2362 Power Bus Powered Bus Powered Use Case Light-weight 2GBps-class portable SSD in a pocketable form-factor Light-weight 1GBps-class portable SSD with a durability focus (IP65 rating) Physical Dimensions 63.5 mm x 57.2 mm x 10.9 mm 88 mm x 59 mm x 13 mm Weight 35 grams (without cable) 98 grams Cable 18 cm USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C to Type-C
17 cm USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C to Type-A 45 cm USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C to Type-C
45 cm USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C to Type-A S.M.A.R.T Passthrough Yes Yes UASP Support Yes Yes TRIM Passthrough Yes Yes Hardware Encryption Not Available Yes Evaluated Storage SK hynix 128L 3D TLC Samsung 136L V-NAND (6th Gen.) Price (Launch) USD 300 USD 410 Review Link PNY EliteX-PRO Portable SSD 4TB Review Samsung Portable SSD T7 Shield 4TB Review
Prior to looking at the benchmark numbers, power consumption, and thermal solution effectiveness, a description of the testbed setup and evaluation methodology is provided.
Testbed Setup and Evaluation Methodology
Direct-attached storage devices (including thumb drives) are evaluated using the Quartz Canyon NUC (essentially, the Xeon / ECC version of the Ghost Canyon NUC) configured with 2x 16GB DDR4-2667 ECC SODIMMs and a PCIe 3.0 x4 NVMe SSD - the IM2P33E8 1TB from ADATA.
The most attractive aspect of the Quartz Canyon NUC is the presence of two PCIe slots (electrically, x16 and x4) for add-in cards. In the absence of a discrete GPU - for which there is no need in a DAS testbed - both slots are available. In fact, we also added a spare SanDisk Extreme PRO M.2 NVMe SSD to the CPU direct-attached M.2 22110 slot in the baseboard in order to avoid DMI bottlenecks when evaluating Thunderbolt 3 devices. This still allows for two add-in cards operating at x8 (x16 electrical) and x4 (x4 electrical). Since the Quartz Canyon NUC doesn't have a native USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 port, Silverstone's SST-ECU06 add-in card was installed in the x4 slot. All non-Thunderbolt devices are tested using the Type-C port enabled by the SST-ECU06.
The specifications of the testbed are summarized in the table below:
The 2021 AnandTech DAS Testbed Configuration System Intel Quartz Canyon NUC9vXQNX CPU Intel Xeon E-2286M Memory ADATA Industrial AD4B3200716G22
32 GB (2x 16GB)
DDR4-3200 ECC @ 22-22-22-52 OS Drive ADATA Industrial IM2P33E8 NVMe 1TB Secondary Drive SanDisk Extreme PRO M.2 NVMe 3D SSD 1TB Add-on Card SilverStone Tek SST-ECU06 USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C Host OS Windows 10 Enterprise x64 (21H1) Thanks to ADATA, Intel, and SilverStone Tek for the build components
The testbed hardware is only one segment of the evaluation. Over the last few years, the typical direct-attached storage workloads for memory cards have also evolved. High bit-rate 4K videos at 60fps have become quite common, and 8K videos are starting to make an appearance. Game install sizes have also grown steadily even in portable game consoles, thanks to high resolution textures and artwork. Keeping these in mind, our evaluation scheme for portable SSDs and UFDs involves multiple workloads which are described in detail in the corresponding sections.
Synthetic workloads using CrystalDiskMark and ATTO
Real-world access traces using PCMark 10's storage benchmark
Custom robocopy workloads reflective of typical DAS usage
Sequential write stress test
In the next couple of sections, we have an overview of the performance of the two PNY PSSDs in these benchmarks. Prior to providing concluding remarks, we have some observations on the drives' power consumption numbers and thermal solution also.
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Computer Hardware
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Throughout the world, if there's one universal constant in the smartphone and mobile device market, it's Arm. Whether it's mobile chip makers basing their SoCs on Arm's fully synthesized CPU cores, or just relying on the Arm ISA and designing their own chips, at the end of the day, Arm underlies virtually all of it. That kind of market saturation and relevance is a testament to all of the hard work that Arm has done in the last few decades getting to this point, but it's also a grave responsibility – for most mobile SoCs, their performance only moves forward as quickly as Arm's own CPU core designs and associated IP do.
Consequently, we've seen Arm settle into a yearly cadence for their client IP, and this year is no exception. Timed to align with this year's Computex trade show in Taiwan, Arm is showing off a new set of Cortex-A and Cortex-X series CPU cores – as well as a new generation of GPU designs – which we'll see carrying the torch for Arm starting later this year and into 2024. These include the flagship Cortex-X4 core, as well as Arm's mid-core Cortex-A720. and the new little-core Cortex-A520.
Arm's latest CPU cores build upon the foundation of Armv9 and their previous Total Compute Solution (TCS21/22) ecosystem. For their 2023 IP, Arm is rolling out a wave of minor microarchitectural improvements through its Cortex line of cores with subtle changes designed to push efficiency and performance throughout, all the while moving entirely to the AArch64 64-bit instruction set. The latest CPU designs from Arm are also designed to align with the ongoing industry-wide drive towards improved security, and while these features aren't strictly end-user facing, it does underscore how Arm's generational improvements are to more than just performance and power efficiency.
In addition to refining its CPU cores, Arm has undertaken a comprehensive upgrade of its DynamIQ Shared Unit core complex block, with the DSU-120. Although the modifications introduced are subtle, they hold substantial significance in terms of improving the efficiency of the fabric holding Arm CPU cores together, along with extending Arm's reach even further in terms of performance scalability with support for up to 14 CPU cores in a single block – a move designed to make Cortex-A/X even better suited for laptops.
With three new CPU cores and a new core complex, there's a lot to cover. So let's dive right in.
Arm TCS23 at a High Level: Pushing Efficiency & Going Pure 64-bit
Expanding on the enhancements introduced in the Armv9.1 architecture last year, Arm is progressing through its scheduled development cycle with the latest Armv9.2 architecture. The primary objective of this cycle is to eliminate support for 32-bit applications and transition to a comprehensive 64-bit platform. Underpinning this transition is Arm's strategic framework, "Total Compute Solutions" (TCS), which revolves around three core principles: compute performance, security, and developer access. This approach forms the foundation for Arm's methodology and guides its efforts in delivering optimal performance, robust security measures, and streamlined developer capabilities.
Arm's focus on phasing out the 32-bit instruction set has been one it has been working towards for several years. For their latest TCS23, they have finally created a fully 64-bit cluster to capitalize on the benefit of a complete 64-bit mobile ecosystem, excising AArch32 (32-bit instruction) support entirely.. So whether it's a big, mid, or little core, for Arm's latest generation of IP there is only AArch64.
Developing a dynamic system-on-a-chip (SoC) that caters to a broad spectrum of mobile devices, ranging from cutting-edge flagship smartphones to entry-level models, necessitates a meticulous and consistent approach to maintaining competitiveness in a rapidly expanding market. In the realm of flagship devices, for instance, Qualcomm's Snapdragon 8 Gen2 SoC stands out, leveraging a cluster of Arm's Cortex-X3, Cortex A715/710, and Cortex-A510 cores. The upcoming iteration of Qualcomm's Snapdragon 8 Gen3 and other SoC manufacturers are poised to harness the power of Arm's TSC23 core cluster and intellectual property to further enhance performance in the subsequent generation of flagship mobile devices.
Arm's latest DynamIQ Shared Unit, DSU-120, offers support for up to 14 CPU cores in a cluster, which opens the door to a significant number of different CPU core combinations. We'll see what SoC vendors have opted for later this year, but one probably configuration is a 1+5+2 (X4+720+520), which is likely a configuration for a high-end smartphone. Compared to a last-generation 1+3+4 cluster (X3+715+510), Arm is claiming an uplift of 27% in compute performance within GeekBench 6 MT and a more considerable uplift of between 33% and 64% in the Speedometer 2.1 benchmark depending on software optimizations implemented.
Focusing more on the approach to 64-bit migration, last year Arm announced their first AArch64-only CPU core, the Cortex-A715. Consequently, last year saw the release of the first 64-bit only products, such as MediaTek's Dimensity 9200 SoC, as well as Google's Pixel 7 – which was 64-bit only as a platform choice rather than an architectural restriction.
That said, actual AArch64 adoption/use within the larger software ecosystem has been slower than expected, primarily due to the Chinese market being slow to make the switch from 32-bit to 64-bit. Google has actually been key with its application storage (Google Play) by requiring its developers to submit 64-bit apps as far back as 2019, while also allowing the use of 32-bit applications on devices without native 64-bit support. Other markets haven't been as quick in doing so, but Arm claims that it is 'nudging' companies such as OPPO, Vivi, and Xiaomi to adopt AArch64 faster, which is believed to have the desired effect.
With the initial Armv9 architecture, Arm made improvements to security through the use of its Memory Tagging Extension (MTE) (Armv8.5), which is a hardware-based implementation that uses Pointer Authentication (PA) extensions to help protect from memory vulnerabilities. Memory-based vulnerabilities have been a consistent threat to hardware-based security for many years, and it is something Arm is continually developing within its IP to help mitigate these types of attacks. For reference, Google's Chromium Project claimed that around 70% of high-severity bugs are from memory.
One of the related security features of the latest Armv9.2 architecture is the introduction of a new QARMA3 Pointer Authentication Code (PAC) algorithm. Arm claims the newer algorithm reduces the CPU overhead of PAC to less than 1%, even on their little cores, giving developers and handset vendors even less of a reason to not enable the security feature. Most of these improvements revolve around hardware integrity and security, with a combination of MTE and native benefits through the 64-bit instruction and architecture, all designed to make devices even more secure going into 2023 and beyond. This fits with Arm's ethos to encourage a full switch to 64-bit over a hybrid 64 and 32-bit marketplace.
Finally, looking at performance, Arm claims that their latest generation CPU and core complex architecture has made solid gains in power efficiency. At iso-performance, Cortex-X4 offers upwards of a 40% reduction in power consumption versus Cortex-X3, while Cortex-A720 and A520 save 20-22% over their respective predecessors. On the DSU-120 hub itself, Arm claims an 18% improvement in power efficiency.
Of course, most of these power savings are going to instead be invested in additional performance. But it goes to show what SoC and handset vendors can aim for in this generation if they focus singularly on power efficiency and battery life.
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Computer Hardware
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Hunting for hardware news sometimes takes you places you've never been before or shows you things that will forever be etched in your mind. Our superchiefintendo Dave pointed me to this one and well, you can't deny that it's definitely a thing. What you've got is a wireless headset that's been modded to sport a hulk-sized battery and some wonderfully garish looks.
Posted over at SweClockers, Sweden's largest PC and hardware website, the project involved two key improvements (or regressions, depending on your view) for a Sennheiser GSP 670 wireless headset: A replacement battery that has four times the capacity of the original and a new set of gel-filled earpads.
Now it's worth pointing out that the GSP 670 isn't exactly a budget model and generally retails around the $200 mark, but the modder in question (who goes by the name Shogou on SweClockers and Old World Tech on YouTube) wasn't happy with the one-day battery life, not to mention that the ear pads had really worn out.
Cue some A-team music (well, a bangin' techno choon in the video), a collection of tools, and a judicious spot of duct tape. The end result is a headset that can only be described as 'unique'. But hey, if it works, it works!
The expanded battery life comes from the fact that the replacement lithium polymer cell is rated at 1500mAh, compared to the original 320mAh provided by Sennheiser. An Amazon Sweden listing for the item states that it's for a specific baby monitor but now the manufacturer can add wireless headsets, too (albeit with the use of drill being a necessary requirement).
I actually like what Shogou has done to get the battery to work with the headset, especially the post-apocalyptic vibe it gives off, with the drilling and duct taping. On the other hand, the replacement gel ear pads really don't work for me: Far too late-1980s, early-1990s in looks for my tastes.
But no matter how clunky and garish it looks, the whole project is really commendable. As someone who used to teach engineering, I love seeing folks ripping devices open and modding them for their exact needs. Not sure whether Shogou is really pleased with the end result or if it doesn't feel unbalanced with the new battery taped to the side, but I want to see more of this kind of stuff!
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Computer Hardware
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Looking to target those who can stretch their cash a little when on a budget, the Cherry KC 200 MX is a sleek bit of kit that is easy to use, set up and jump into games in no time. It might be missing a wireless option and its keys do air a little on the sensitive side, however, for a product that's looking to satisfy both work and play, it does pretty damn well. Just don't expect anything game-changing.
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Red and green must never be seen but black and bronze make a mean machine. This is the Cherry KC 200 MX, one of the first mechanical keyboards from the company to feature the new Cherry MX2A switches.
While mechanical keyboards have been around since the 1970s, providing a more durable typing experience, in recent years they've looked to address both day-to-day work life and gaming to create something that can suit both. That's what the Cherry KC 200 MX intends to achieve with anti-ghosting, NKRO (n-key rollover) as well as laser-etched and abrasion-proof ABS keycaps among other features, to help blend the lines further.
Starting with the unboxing process, it's great to see Cherry's packaging is now more minimal than ever. What we have now instead of lots of unnecessary plastic is a simple cardboard box with silk paper wrapping to keep the keyboard protected, which does the job yet I do wonder how safe it would be if your DPD driver was a bit reckless.
What I most appreciate about the Cherry KC 200 MX's design is how professional-looking it is, something that would fit just as well in an office environment as it would in a sleek home set-up. For anyone who prefers a minimalist approach over vibrant colours, this is a dream. Not to say it doesn't have any pop, with white LED indicators built into the Caps lock, Scroll lock and Num lock, giving it a fitting 'less is more' approach. Maybe adding those white lights on the back would have been a nice touch too but hey-ho.
KC 200 MX specs (Image credit: Future) Connection: USB Type-A
System: Windows 7/8/10/11
Dimensions: 430mm x 121mm x 39mm
Keys: 108
Keyboard colour: Black/Bronze
Weight: 830g
Price: $100 / £80 / €76 (+VAT)
Immediately your eyes are drawn to the anodised metal plate, which goes a long way to making what is effectively a budget-friendly-adjacent model feel extremely premium. The mixture of black and bronze does wonders in that respect too (Note: the White/Silver version is not available in the UK layout). Since it's currently paired with a Corsair Dark Core RGB Pro SE in my own personal set-up, it's actually convinced me to get something less flashy in the mouse department.
Its base is sturdy with equally withstanding keys that have, regrettably, taken one too many drops of my phone already – and still, no scratches or marks have surfaced. Cherry guarantees a service life of upwards of 100 million keystrokes (not that anyone is counting). That's why the build quality (weighting 830g) has impressed me most; nothing about it says cheap.
There are 108 keys: four of them being made up of volume controllers and a calculator option positioned in the top-right-hand corner. I often forget they exist but when I do they're a nice little time-saver. All of the F-keys serve one function, however, can be customised via the Cherry Keys software to create any personal shortcuts. The software is pretty basic but comes with plenty of options to jump into folders, multimedia or any specific web pages in one click.
Image 1 of 3 (Image credit: Future) (Image credit: Future) (Image credit: Future)
When it comes to how much the Cherry KX 200 MX will set you back, expect an MSRP of £80 in the UK, €76 (plus VAT) in Europe and $100 in the US. As the manufacturer has stated that it is aiming for a "budget-sensitive" audience, the pricing is just above what I would consider in that range. That said, I'd be tempted to stretch that little bit extra for the quality and appearance here.
Set-up takes seconds. Just plug in the USB-Type A cable, let the PC complete its installation and everything is ready to use. Sadly, there's no wireless option whatsoever, a big omission considering the cost. I'd also question the point of the two legs on the back that when flipped are imperceptible to the standard stance since the 39mm height of the keyboard is adequate on its own.
The MX2A switches definitely fall into the tactile category for the most part. Every input offers a satisfying click noise that isn't too bothersome to the ears either. Cherry does offer separate 'Silent Red' switches for anyone who prefers a quieter experience. The inclusion of anti-ghosting and N-Key rollover goes a long way to reduce any input loss. In fact, it's not something I really noticed during my playtime so a huge plus.
Image 1 of 3 (Image credit: Future) (Image credit: Future) (Image credit: Future)
For the past week, I've tested the Cherry KC 200 MX by spending many hours typing during the day before then putting it through its paces on an evening via the likes of Atlas Fallen, Ghostrunner and Apex Legends. Specifically, the lubricated switches for the latter helped to reduce friction and were a big improvement over my standard keyboard when it came to combat. Sure, it's impossible to verify but I did feel like I had the edge at times when it came to grabbing a weapon first, although that might have just been the excitement over a new shiny keyboard.
Similarly, hacking and slashing in Atlas Fallen came very naturally. I particularly felt the difference in landing those final blows, able to feel the keys spring in a rewarding fashion that made it that little bit sweeter. While not on the same level, typing out words (like these ones right here) offers a great bounce from the keys, making writing, in general, that little bit less strenuous when compared to the second-hand board I've been previously burned with. I shan't be going back.
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Computer Hardware
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If you didn't know RCA did gaming monitors, that's because it didn't. Until now. Its first effort is a creditable 240Hz 1440p model. But it probably doesn't do enough to stand out from existing, more familiar brands in the segment.
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Do not adjust your screens. Your eyes do not deceive you. This is a high-refresh gaming monitor from RCA, formerly a company that pioneered early radio and TV tech and now essentially some branding IP licensed by several companies, including in this case DTI Services, an Indianapolis-based company that primarily makes TVs.
Whatever, the RCA Evolution Premium M27PG135F, a 27-inch 1440p 240Hz model, is our first taste of the brand's new foray into serious gaming hardware.
Out of the box and it's all pretty familiar, if not a little generic. That's probably a good thing. RCA isn't trying to reinvent the gaming monitor with the M27PG135F. The build quality is a little hollow and plastic, but that's typical for this class of display.
You get a reasonably sturdy stand with a metal base and a full range of adjustments, including pivot into portrait. So, RCA hasn't skimped on the ergonomics. Likewise, the slim-ish bezels on three sides of the panel—plus a larger chin—are standard aesthetic fare, as is the light sprinkling of RGB lighting on the rear.
RCA Evolution Premium M27PG135F (Image credit: Future) Screen size: 27-inch
Resolution: 2,560 x 1,440
Brightness: 300 nits
Color coverage: 95% DCI-P3
Response time: 1ms
Refresh rate: 240Hz
HDR: HDR10
Features: IPS panel, adaptive sync, 1x DisplayPort, 2x HDMI, 1x USB-C with 90W PD, KVM switch
Price: $369
Connectivity is well covered, too, with DisplayPort, two HDMI sockets and even USB-C with 90W of power delivery. The inclusion of a KVM switch is a nice addition and contributes to a pretty strong all-round features set.
Specs-wise, there are no real surprises from the IPS panel. This is a 27-inch 1440p model with 240Hz refresh capability, and 1ms claimed GtG response. There is basic HDR support, but with a peak brightness of 300 nits, it doesn't qualify for explicit DisplayHDR 400 certification. Coverage of the DCI-P3 gamut, if that's of concern, comes in at 95%, which again is decent but not remarkable.
And that, in a nutshell, sums up the image quality on offer. Definitely decent, but probably not remarkable. The color calibration is pretty much on point, though the range of gamut presets is fairly limited.
(Image credit: Future)
That, in a nutshell, sums up the image quality on offer. Definitely decent, but probably not remarkable.
Beyond the default user mode, there's sRGB but no DCI-P3 mode. That's not much of an omission for gaming, however, and in other regards you can add the OSD menu to the list of elements that meet but do not exceed expectations, more on which in a moment.
As for brightness, that could be a bit of a concern, what with the modest 300 nit rating. But subjectively, the level of punch on offer for SDR content is comparable to typical HDR400 panels. As for HDR content, as you'd expect, this monitor doesn't give a true HDR experience. There's no local dimming, and while RCA doesn't quote the contrast ratio, this is a conventional IPS panel and thus will be capable of 1,300:1 at best.
Still, HDR video doesn't look bad, it's just debatable if it looks any better than the same content in SDR mode. It's a bit more complicated when it comes to gaming. Running, say, Cyberpunk 2077 with HDR goodness switched on, brighter highlights do have a bit more pop than in SDR mode.
RCA has arguably been a bit conservative with its pixel overdrive calibration. (Image credit: Future)
RCA could have been just a touch less conservative with the overdrive options here.
But equally darker scene elements are pretty crushed, to the extent that it's hard to see what's going on in dimly lit or underground locations. In short, it's questionable whether you'd use the limited HDR capabilities in-game, though they may come in handy for watching HDR video content without distorted colors.
All that said, re HDR we won't hold this monitor's limitations against it. It's not materially different to other pseudo-HDR panels in this class.
Much more important is speed and here the RCA Evolution Premium M27PG135F puts on a decent showing. There are three levels of pixel accelerating overdrive in the OSD menu and even the fastest option only introduces the tiniest whiff of overshoot.
Image 1 of 6 (Image credit: Future) (Image credit: Future) (Image credit: Future) (Image credit: Future) (Image credit: Future) (Image credit: Future)
You might think that's a good thing. However, a slightly more aggressive max setting can be desirable in some games. If you're playing, for instance, Counter-Strike 2, that's a game which responds really well to aggressive overdrive. It tends to looks crisper and sharper and without the overshoot and associated inverse ghosting being noticeable.
Anyway, we think RCA could have been just a touch less conservative with the overdrive options here. There are IPS panels with slightly crisper motion reproduction as a consequence.
On the other hand, we doubt you'll have any problems with this monitor's latency. All 240Hz are present and accounted for, making for buttery smooth frame rates and essentially zero subjective latency.
Buy if... ✅ You want a good all-round 1440p gaming panel: This new RCA doesn't do anything exotic, but it's a good performer with a strong feature set.
Don't buy if... ❌ You want a proper HDR experience: With a peak brightness of 300 nits and no local dimming, this is not a true HDR monitor.
All of which means we basically like the new RCA Evolution Premium M27PG135F. It gets pretty much nothing badly wrong and a lot right. It doesn't do anything radical or new or unexpected. But for the most part, that's a good thing.
The only slight snag, if there is one, is the question of: Why would you buy this monitor in particular over the more obvious brands? It's a decent performer, but then so is much of the more familiar competition. It's reasonably priced, but then so is... well, you get the idea. This is a solid first effort from RCA. But the brand probably needs to do a little more to earn conquest sales from the better established competition.
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Computer Hardware
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The Ryzen 7 7800X3D is one of the best CPUs, especially for high-end gaming. Despite having a $449 MSRP, the AMD 3D V-Cache chip has dipped below $350 several times during the year, and it's now available for $348.94 at Newegg, a little over $100 below the chip's MSRP.
Black Friday is over, but that doesn't mean all the deals are gone. If you're a gamer desperate for a processor upgrade, the Ryzen 7 7800X3D is a steal right now. The Zen 4 processor has eight cores and 16 threads clocked at a 4.2 GHz base clock and a maximum boost clock up to 5 GHz. While the specifications aren't jaw-dropping, the show's real star is the 96MB of L3 cache powered by AMD's second-generation 3D V-Cache technology.
The Ryzen 7 7800X3D is the current king of gaming chips. It's ahead of the more expensive offerings, such as the flagship Ryzen 9 7950X3D and Core i9-14900K from AMD and Intel, respectively. The octa-core chip resides on AMD's latest AM5 platform, so existing Ryzen 7000 motherbaord owners only need to upgrade the motherboard's firmware. New AMD users will have to splash out for a new motherboard and corresponding DDR5 memory because one of AM5's caveats is the lack of DDR4 support. Nonetheless, AM5 motherboards and DDR5 memory kits have become more affordable, so you no longer have to pay the early adopter prices.
The Ryzen 7 7800X3D sells for $348.94 across multiple major U.S. retailers, including Newegg and Amazon. Don't forget to add the SSCZ435 promotional code if ordering from B&H, to get the price. For Amazon purchasers, apply the $9.98 coupon before checkout.
If you're fortunate to live close to a Micro Center, you're even in better luck. The Ryzen 7 7800X3D retails $339.99 at Micro Center; however, it's only available for in-store pickups.
AMD is currently running the Avatar: Frontiers of Pandora bundle for select Radeon graphics cards and Ryzen processors. In addition to getting an incredible gaming processor, you'll receive a free copy of Ubisoft's looming open-world action-adventure title when it launches on December 7. The recommended processor for a quality 4K experience is the Ryzen 7 7800X3D; therefore, the chip will have no problems pushing buttery smooth frame rates on Avatar: Frontiers of Pandora ($69.99 value) as long as you have an equally capable graphics card, such as the Radeon RX 7900 XT, which is coincidentally one of the best graphics cards.
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Computer Hardware
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Our HDD benchmarks hierarchy shows all of the high-capacity hard drives that we've tested over the years, ranked in order of overall sequential throughput. It's a companion to our guide of the best hard drives, as well as the best SSDs and the SSD benchmarks hierarchy — we strongly recommend any modern PC use an SSD for the OS and boot drive, while HDDs are best as secondary storage.
We regularly review hard drives and update the HDD hierarchy with new models. For now, we've included 20 HDDs that have been tested and reviewed in the past couple of years. Our test PC consists of a Core i9-12900K running Windows 11 22H2, with 32GB of DDR4 memory. If you represent an HDD manufacturer and don't see a particular model in our list, drop me an email, and we can see about testing it.
Black Friday HDD Deals
After you've taken a look at our HDD benchmarks hierarchy, head on over to our Best Black Friday Storage Deals for some of the latest deals on hard drives. Here's one of our favorites that's currently available.
Seagate Exos X20 20TB: now $269 at Newegg (was $699)
This massive 20TB 7,200 RPM drive can store a lot of data, and with the current sale, it's available at a cost of just $13.50 per TB.
We have a variety of sizes that we've tested over time, ranging from 6TB up to 22TB, with spindle speeds of 5400 RPM to 7200 RPM. Everything is grouped into a single large table for now, but as we add more models over time, we'll see about separating things according to capacity.
HDD Hierarchy
The highest performing HDDs tend to be larger models, though that alone isn't always the determining factor. In some cases, lower capacity drives can outperform higher capacity drives — like the Toshiba X300 Pro 12TB and 20TB models. But while we've ranked everything by performance, pricing is arguably the more important element, and we have the best current price we're tracking listed in the table with the price per TB.
If you're after the best price per TB, the top two options are the Seagate BarraCuda 8TB and the Seagate Exos X20 20TB. The 8TB has a slightly better value at the time of writing, but the 20TB model more than doubles the raw capacity, plus it has a higher 7200 RPM rotational speed, and that's hard to pass up if you're planning to store lots of files. The worst value, looking purely at the cost per GB (TB), is the Seagate FireCuda 8TB at over $30 per TB — that's almost getting into the range of budget SSDs! Almost.
Performance can still matter, though if you're mostly interested in performance you should go with an SSD first. The Seagate Barracuda 8TB, which has the lowest price per TB, was also the slowest drive we tested. That's due in part to the 5400 RPM spindle speed, but also the use of SMR technology — shingled magnetic recording. SMR can help pack more bits per mm^2, increasing areal density, but writes in particular can be much slower as the drives fill up. Still, we'll see more SMR-type technologies in the future as we move into the 30TB and higher range.
The fastest drive overall is the Seagate Exos E20, thanks to its combination of high sequential throughput and improved random IO. Again, considering it's the second best value overall (not factoring in performance), it's a great option. A few other drives might be slightly faster in the copy test or sequential throughput, but no other drive fully eclipses the Exos E20 — not even the newer Skyhawk AI.
Prices do change on a regular basis, of course, so it's a good idea to look around at similar capacity HDDs before making any purchase decision. A simple price cut could easily turn one of the lower ranking values into the new top option.
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Computer Hardware
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Knowing the upper limits of what your machine can handle is at the forefront of PC gaming. One of the best ways to monitor your machine’s performance is to observe the CPU usage and this is usually done digitally using software such as the Windows Task Manager that comes with the operating system. However, Lex from Computing: the Details has created a new CPU monitor from scratch that takes things out of the digital realm and into the real world.
To monitor the CPU, at least 12 dials would be needed to represent each core's load . However, Lex opted to add additional dials to keep an eye on memory usage and swap space. As these metrics change, the dials move to indicate how much workload is being handled at a given time. The LEDs also change to indicate how high or low the level is at a glance.
Image 1 of 2 (Image credit: Lex, Computing: the Details) (Image credit: Lex, Computing: the Details)
Behind each dial is a scale that represents how much usage is measured. Lex printed custom artwork to stick on top of the default gauges to reflect values that make sense for each reading. One was created for the 12 CPU dials and two more for the memory usage and swap space dials.
The dials are controlled using an Arduino Mega with PWM. This board also operates the LEDs which in this case is a string of individually addressable strip lights that neatly fit under each dial. The hardware is housed using a custom frame that’s laser cut and held together using tabs and cut-outs.
According to Lex, the software used in this program is a Rust program they created just to pull data and process it for the Arduino. The PC communicates with the Arduino using a USB interface. This enables the CPU monitor to respond to usage in real time. If you want to see this project in action, check out the video shared to YouTube by Lex and be sure to follow Computing: the Details for more cool projects.
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Computer Hardware
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CNBC Business News has shared the first video footage from inside Apple’s Silicon Valley HQ chip lab. The news organization’s Katie Tarasov visited the labs and talked with several senior Apple execs involved in hardware. She heard about the reasons behind the transition to bringing processor development in-house, the biggest achievements over the years, and the size and scale of the current operation.
The video tour starts in what is described as “a non-descript room filled with a couple hundred buzzing machines.” Here techies in lab coats are seen studiously pondering over components and PCBs, which we assume were taken from some of the 100s of buzzing machines mounted in racks.
Image 1 of 3 (Image credit: CNBC) (Image credit: CNBC) (Image credit: CNBC)
Apple only started working on its processors in around 2008. At that time there were only 40 or 50 engineers, according to the CNBC report. However, that quickly ballooned with the first Apple-branded processor, the 2010 era A4, as used in the iPhone 4, and original iPad. The team got bigger through greater ambitions and acquisitions and in 2023 there are “thousands of engineers working across labs all over the world,” including those in the U.S. Israel, Germany, Austria, the U.K., and Japan.
John Ternus, a 22-year Apple veteran and the firm’s SVP of Hardware Engineering, said that the development and implementation of Apple Silicon is “one of the most, if not the most, profound changes at Apple,” in the last 20 years.
To say Apple’s SVP of Hardware Engineering was happy with the progress of Apple’s silicon design team seems like an understatement. “It was almost like the laws of physics had changed,” Ternus said about the advances offered by Apple Silicon. “All of a sudden we could build a MacBook Air that’s incredibly thin and light, has no fan, 18 hours of battery life, and outperformed the MacBook Pro that we had just been shipping.” He also asserted that “pretty much all Macs are capable of running Triple-A [games] titles.”
CNBC’s Tarasov also talked to the head of Apple Silicon, Johny Srouji. He highlighted that Apple Silicon is made only for Apple products, and thus the firm can “exactly and precisely build chips that are going to be targeted for those products, and only for those products.” The process offers great optimization and scalability choices.
It was interesting to hear from the head of Apple Silicon that the biggest changes in recent times have been in strengthening the GPU portion of the SoC. Srouji highlighted the addition of PC-like features such as hardware-accelerated ray tracing and mesh shading acceleration.
Of course, as well as the CPU and GPU, Apple has been developing its NPU for on-device AI acceleration. However, CNBC couldn’t draw info from any Apple execs about the rumored Apple GPT. When asked about the possibility of falling behind in AI, Srouji reportedly said, “I don’t believe we are.”
We still don’t expect any Apple SoC to include a modem soon. “We care about cellular, and we have teams enabling that,” said Srouji. Apple also wants to do its own Wi-Fi and Bluetooth chips, and is reportedly working on them, too.
One of the last segments in the wide-ranging video was a chat about Apple’s reliance on TSMC. This is indeed seen as a risk factor, for various well-known reasons. It is thus hoped Samsung and Intel will become practical alternatives to TSMC for Apple, in the not-too-distant future.
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Computer Hardware
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AMD is showing significant gains in November's latest Steam hardware survey: it's up 4.7% in GPUs and 8.4% in CPUs. That's all at the expense of Nvidia and Intel, which saw equally significant losses. However, this is more of a return to the status quo than AMD suddenly posting substantial gains. October's Steam hardware survey shows a similar boost in Nvidia GPU and Intel CPU usage, which has now been undone. This isn't the only quirk of November's survey result either.
Nvidia's spike in usage was brief
The November survey is practically the reverse of the October survey; almost everything gained in October declined in November, and vice versa. The brief surge of GeForce RTX 30-series cards in GPUs suddenly turned into a retreat. Cards like the RTX 3060 Ti, RTX 3070, and RTX 3070 Ti saw their shares decline by double digits, and the RTX 3060, in particular, got hammered as it went from 9.92% to 5.04% share. Meanwhile, almost every AMD card from the last three generations went up.
Swipe to scroll horizontally Desktop GPU market share Header Cell - Column 0 September October November RTX 3060 6.27% 9.92% 5.04% RTX 3060 Ti 4.04% 4.95% 3.54% RTX 3070 3.62% 5.18% 3.23% RTX 3070 Ti 1.53% 1.91% 1.5% RTX 3080 2.16% 2.64% 2.21% RTX 3090 0.54% 0.49% 0.60% RX 560 0.16% 0% 0.16% RX 570 0.70% 0.53% 0.73% RX 580 0.95% 0.74% 1.01% RX 5500 XT 0.20% 0.16% 0.21% RX 5600 XT 0.24% 0.17% 0.24% RX 5700 XT 0.63% 0.50% 0.68% RX 6500 XT 0.20% 0% 0.20% RX 6600 0.57% 0.45% 0.66% RX 6600 XT 0.38% 0.32% 0.41% RX 6650 XT 0.23% 0.19% 0.28% RX 6700 XT 0.64% 0.53% 0.74% RX 6750 XT 0.24% 0.19% 0.28% RX 6800 XT 0.31% 0.23% 0.34% RX 6900 XT 0.23% 0.18% 0.26%
However, all of this is more or less in line with the results from September, implying that October's results were the outlier. The odds of Nvidia making and then losing such a large share in a few months seem pretty unlikely.
CPU trends from October were also short-lived
October's survey saw significant gains for Intel, but in November, that's been completely reversed, much like Nvidia's GPU gains. AMD controls roughly a third of the market, while Intel has the other two-thirds. Additionally, usage of 6-core CPUs declined as quad-cores rose, but that only brings things back to September levels, just like with different trends.
Swipe to scroll horizontally CPU market share and other stats Header Cell - Column 0 September October November AMD CPUs 32.1% 26.2% 34.7% Intel CPUs 67.9% 73.8% 65.3% 6-core CPUs 35% 39.8% 31.9% 4-core CPUs 23.4% 18.9% 23% AVX512VNNI support 9.9% 9.5% 10.6% 16GB RAM 51.3% 48.1% 49.9%
But beyond AMD and Intel, there are also other quirks too. The share of 4-core and 6-core CPUs is back to September's figures, with quad cores going back up and hexa cores going back down. These numbers also changed slightly, so it's not just noise.
Support for the AX512VNNI instruction is also interesting, as it's only supported by Intel's 11th to 14th Gen Raptor Lake Refresh CPUs and AMD's Ryzen 7000 series. It indicates roughly 10% of Steam users own one of these CPUs, and it also saw a strange fluctuation. The usage of 16GB of RAM, the most popular amount for some time, also saw a slight dip in October that has now mostly gone away.
Other reversals: Windows 11 vs 10, English vs Chinese
One of the final trends of note is the rapid gain of Windows 11 at Windows 10's expense. Windows 11's share increased by 11.5%, nearly as much as Windows 10 lost 12.1%. This offsets what happened in October, which saw Windows 11 lose 6.9% share while Windows 10 gained 7.6%. Windows 11 is now at 42% share to Windows 10's 53.5%.
Another significant shift happened in language usage. In October, Chinese overtook English with a 13.7% surge in usage, putting it at 45.9%. But now English is back on top again, with Chinese further away than in September.
Swipe to scroll horizontally Windows market share and language usage Header Cell - Column 0 September October November Windows 10 56% 65.6% 53.5% Windows 11 37.4% 30.5% 42% English 32.3% 26.4% 36% Chinese 32.2% 45.9% 26%
This data, in particular, might tie up all the strangeness surrounding the latest Steam hardware surveys. In 2018, Valve announced that it had identified a flaw with the study that allowed PCs from Asian cyber cafes to complete the survey multiple times. Surveys from before the fix saw AMD CPUs declining in market share despite the latest Ryzen CPUs being far better than their FX series predecessors. Windows 7, which had been superseded by Windows 10, was also overrepresented.
It's probable that Valve never entirely fixed this issue, as the March survey shows many of the same trends that October's did. In March, AMD's share in CPUs and GPUs decreased significantly, while Windows 10 and Chinese made significant gains. All those trends disappeared in the following April survey, and things returned to February levels.
Incidents like these make the Steam hardware survey challenging to rely on. Between these reporting issues and missing statistics for CPU names, device names, and other details, it's unclear how proper the survey is.
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Computer Hardware
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Katarzynki: Poland’s famous gingerbread from Torun
By Olga Mecking Features correspondent
Nassima Rothaker
Author Ren Behan has found a way to make Polish gingerbread biscuits from the town of Toruń at home (Credit: Nassima Rothaker)
Although the recipe is usually kept secret, Ren Behan, author of Sweet Polish Kitchen, has found a way to make Polish gingerbread biscuits from the town of Torun at home.
The Polish city of Toruń is famous for being the birthplace of Nikolaus Copernicus – also known as Kopernik – the astronomer who, as we say in Poland, "stopped the Sun, and moved the Earth". But Kopernik is also the name of a company producing the town's famous Toruńskie pierniczki (Toruń gingerbread), which is celebrating its 260th anniversary this year.
Many Polish sweets are named after people (a chocolate bar called Grzesiek, or Greg, is a great example), and a type of Toruń gingerbread called katarzynki is no exception. These spiced biscuits, which are covered in chocolate and shaped like a cloud, were most likely named after Katherine of Alexandria, a 4th-Century saint and martyr who is honoured in the Orthodox and Catholic church on 25 November. In Poland, "Katarzynki Day" is often celebrated by young men who wish to get married and is devoted to fortune telling and divination rituals to reveal the name of their future wives. (Women have "Andrzejki Day", or St Andrew's Day, on 30 November.)
25 November is the day Toruń bakers typically start preparing the dough for the Christmas biscuits. The ingredients include honey, sugar, flour, egg and spices like cinnamon, cloves and allspice; not necessarily ginger. While these treats have "ginger" in their English name, their Polish name, pierniczki, stems from pierny, an old Polish word meaning "peppery".
According to the Gingerbread Museum in Toruń, gingerbread dates to as early as 1380. A predecessor of pierniczki was already produced in the Roman Empire and then spread to other places in Europe – including The Netherlands, Germany and the Czech Republic – during Medieval times. Toruń became famous for its gingerbread, originally brought to the city by Germans, due to its location at the crossing point of various European trading routes and its membership in the Hanseatic League, which introduced the city to the spices.
Wedding gingerbread Pierniczki (gingerbread) dough used to be prepared in families when a baby girl was born. It would mature for years before being rolled out, cut and baked on her wedding day.
The diminutive form separates pierniczki (gingerbread biscuits) from piernik (gingerbread cake). But according to writer and cookbook author Ren Behan, katarzynki tend to be something in between the two, texture-wise: "It's really about wanting something that's not quite a biscuit and not quite cake, but something in the middle that has some softness in it," she said.
Behan was born in the UK to Polish parents and feels very grounded in Polish culture. "It's one of the things I used to eat as a child when we would go to the Polish Combatants' Club [Polski Dom Kombatanta w in Manchester]. Behind the bar they always had packets of katarzynki. I very much remember the noise that the packet made and sinking my teeth into that first chocolate and then that lovely gingerbread," she said.
The recipe for Toruń gingerbread was often only passed down orally. Kopernik, the largest and most famous producer of Toruń gingerbread keeps their recipe a carefully guarded secret. They have registered the name "katarzynki" to refer to their cloud-shaped version. However, Behan has found a way to make katarzynki at home.
"You've got runny honey, sugar, butter. I use rye flour, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, and then a little bit of cocoa powder just for the flavour, and that nice darkness when it bakes. And then just good quality chocolate poured over the top."
Behan had the typical cloud-shaped biscuit cutter shipped over from Poland. But home chefs aiming for the traditional look should not despair if they don't have one.
barmalini/Getty Images
Katarzynki were most likely named after 4th-Century saint and martyr, Katherine of Alexandria (Credit: barmalini/Getty Images)
Legend has it that a Toruń baker fell sick one day and asked his daughter Katarzyna to make his famous biscuits. Because she didn't have a biscuit cutter, she cut out circles of dough with a glass. But when they baked in the oven, the rounds ran together to create a new, cloud-like shape. To achieve the same look, home bakers can use a small biscuit cutter to cut out circles and lay them close together in groups of six.
Behan started her blog in 2010, first to share the seasonally inspired recipes she made for her family, then to bring Polish food to an English-speaking audience.
Her first cookbook, Wild Honey and Rye was published in 2017 to great acclaim and offered a fresh, modern look at Polish cuisine. But her newly published cookbook, Sweet Polish Kitchen (available in the US on 5 December and in the UK on 29 February), is inspired by European cafe culture, which in turn has been influenced by ingredients and techniques from all over the world, including from France, Italy, Switzerland and Germany. Its focus is to "to explore this world of Polish baking and Polish sweet goods, and then hopefully to inspire people," Behan said.
And as for gingerbread, she added, "it's a flavour everybody knows."
Nassima Rothaker
Author Ren Behan has found a way to make Polish gingerbread biscuits from the town of Toruń at home (Credit: Nassima Rothaker)
Katarzynki: Traditional Gingerbread Biscuits By Ren Behan
Makes 20
Ingredients 200g runny honey 100g soft dark brown sugar 100g butter, at room temperature 100g white rye flour 300g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground cloves 1 tsp ground allspice 2 tsp cocoa powder 2 egg yolks 400g good-quality dark chocolate, melted
Method
Step 1 Put the honey, sugar and butter into a small pan, whisk together and heat gently until melted. Set aside.
Step 2 Combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl, along with the egg yolks. Mix, then pour in the melted liquid honey mix. Keep mixing until a dough forms. Cover with clingfilm and chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Step 3 Preheat your oven to 180C/160C Fan/Gas Mark 4/350F. Line a baking sheet with baking paper.
Step 4 Sprinkle a little flour on a board and roll out the dough (it's easier if you roll it between two sheets of baking paper). Using a biscuit cutter, cut into shapes and place them carefully onto the lined baking sheet, leaving at least 1cm between each biscuit.
Step 5 Bake (in batches if needed) for 20 minutes, or until the biscuits are light golden. They will puff up slightly and harden. They need to soften a little, so cool completely on a wire rack, then transfer them to a tin to mature for 2 weeks, before coating with chocolate.
Step 6 To coat, place the biscuits on a wire rack and spoon the melted chocolate over them once dry, store them in a tin.
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Food
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Gohona bori: India's heritage edible ornament
By Sugato Mukherjee Features correspondent
Kunal Chowdhury
Gohona borris are edible ornaments shaped like jewellery (Credit: Kunal Chowdhury)
Gohona bori is a crisp, salty lentil snack that is meticulously hand-crafted and reserved for the most special occasions.
Jyotsna Maity fixed the large, circular brass plate with a meditative gaze. A bed of poppy seeds was neatly and evenly spread over the dish. She began to slowly extrude the lentil batter through the piped cloth bag she had in her right hand, holding it perpendicularly over the platter. Her nimble wrist delicately twisted and turned to form concentric circles, decorative curls and miniscule triangles with the gooey paste. With a sharp, controlled jerk of her hand, she completed the design that now resembled a dainty designer necklace.
Maity was the head of the squad of women similarly occupied on the spacious terrace: their heads bent over brass plates and hands busy to create a culinary artform, the tricks of which have been handed down to them orally through generations.
I was at Chauddhachuli village, located in the East Midnapore district in the eastern Indian state of West Bengal, to witness the ancient art of gohona bori. While bori is a plain lentil dumpling, eaten as a humble accompaniment to lentil soup or added to fish and vegetable dishes to enhance the flavours, gohona bori is a specialty snack that looks like a meticulously designed ornament (gohona in Bengali language means jewellery). Salty with a crunchy twist from poppy seeds, gohona boris are reserved for special occasions as tasty tea-time snacks. They can also be a delightful starter for an elaborate and traditional Bengali meal, with a spoonful of ghee (clarified butter) and eaten with piping hot rice.
"Preparation of gohona boris is a winter activity and largely a gendered practice," said Maity. Usually, starting on a day in mid to late November, village women take an early morning bath, wear fresh clothes and perform a puja – the Hindu ritual of the worship of the divine – before starting the laborious procedure of grinding the tenderised black grams (a South Asian legume also known as urad daal or bean) that have been soaked overnight. To do this, they use a tool called shilnora in Bengali language: a flat mortar and stone pestle.
"We usually need two rounds of manual grinding to get a soft, pasty texture," Maity said. The batter is then whisked by hand until it turns silky smooth and fluffy. Then it is ready to be gently piped over the ultrathin layer of poppy seeds with myriad patterns and motifs of free-flowing finery. One piece at a time.
Kunal Chowdhury
A tool called 'shilnora' is used for the laborious procedure of grinding the black grams (Credit: Kunal Chowdhury)
"Two days of drying them under the warm and mellow winter sun will now lend a perfect balance of crispness and flavour to these gohona boris," Maity said, as her small team of village women inspected the freshly made batch of artisanal treats, shaped like earrings, pendants and tiaras, laid out on the terrace. Once they've dried in the sun, the delicacies are fried in mustard oil until both sides are lightly browned all over.
"Gohona boris used to be a part of the bridal caparison back in the olden days," said Animesh Das, who heads the gohona bori project of Turiyo Foundation, a local organisation focused on entrepreneurial programs for rural communities. The foundation has partnered with Maity and other local women to produce gohona boris in small batches and market them.
"Small-scale is the operative word with this heritage edible art," Maity said. This is because the fine skill set needed to produce gohona boris makes this unsuitable for mass production. The packaging has to be immaculate for the fragile and brittle snacks that have a limited shelf life. "So yes, this has to remain as a handicraft, as it has always been," Das confirmed.
No one is certain when the culinary craft originated, but it was first prepared in the aristocratic households of the East Midnapore district, where the sunny and dry climate is perfect to sun-bake the gohona boris. In 1930, when the Nobel Laureate poet Rabindranath Tagore was presented with a box of gohona boris, he was so intrigued by the exquisiteness of the goodies that he had them photographed and displayed as exhibits at the Kala Bhavana (Department of Fine Arts) in the university town of Shantiniketan, near Kolkata.
"I am not sure when and how the unassuming, no-frills bori transformed itself from a pantry staple to an artisanal snack in East Midnapore district," said Das. Here, he said, it is reserved for special occasions such as the first visit of the son-in-law to the bride's home, or for a get together of long-lost friends and relatives.
Maity and her teammates treat gohona bori not only as an ornamental accompaniment to a festive meal, but as an integral part of a cultural legacy they grew up with. "We organise winter workshops here in Chauddhachuli. However, there is no pre-set blueprint for this edible art," said Maity. "Once you master the craft, your imagination takes over and you can even create newer designs of gohona boris – flowers, birds, or maybe, just simple motifs!"
Sugato Mukherjee
The speciality snack is sun-dried then fried in mustard oil (Credit: Sugato Mukherjee)
Gohona bori recipe By Jyotsna Maity
Makes 10-12 pieces
Ingredients 100-120g (3½-4oz) split black grams 500ml (about 2 cups) water, for soaking the black grams 100g (3½oz) poppy seeds mustard oil, for deep-frying
Method
Step 1 Thoroughly clean and wash the black grams and soak them overnight in the water to tenderise them.
Step 2 Two rounds of manual grinding with a flat mortar and stone pestle are needed to obtain a soft paste. A food processor or blender can be a good alternative to get the right texture. Once ground to a soft paste, whisk the batter vigorously till the blend turns smooth and consistent. Do not add water, which will spoil the batter.
Step 3 Spread out a thin layer of poppy seeds over a flat platter. Fill a piping bag with the mixture, piling it in slowly to ensure that no air bubbles get into the batter.
Step 4 Start extruding the batter slowly onto the bed of poppy seeds. To have better control over the shape and size of the gohona bori you are trying to make, consider fitting a nozzle with the piping bag.
Step 5 Dry for at least two days under the sun and cool air, then the gohona boris are fry-ready.
Step 6 Deep-fry the gohona boris in oil until lightly browned on both sides. Serve crisp and hot.
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Food
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Madhur Jaffrey: The woman who gave the world Indian food
By Priya Mani Features correspondent
Adrianna Newell
Madhur Jaffrey is a household name for anyone with a taste for South Asian cuisine (Credit: Adrianna Newell)
Culinary legend Madhur Jaffrey celebrates the 50th anniversary of her seminal book, An Invitation to Indian Cooking, which put Indian food on tables around the world.
At a spirited 90 years of age, Madhur Jaffrey takes centre stage on the streaming platform MasterClass, her screen presence marked by a shiny bob, smoky-lined eyes, vivid red lips and a trove of lively, endearing anecdotes from her rich life. A true polymath, Madhur is more than a versatile actress whose cinematic impact has spanned several decades, she's a culinary chronicler and food icon. With over 30 cookbooks to her name, spanning the flavours of India, Asia and global vegetarian cuisine, as well as many television cookery shows (including on the BBC), Madhur Jaffrey is a household name for anyone with a taste for South Asian cuisine.
As Indian-born Nobel Laureate and cookbook author Abhijit Banerjee shared during this year's annual HC Mahindra Lecture at Harvard University, "While I could cook many Western dishes, I did not know how to cook Indian food. My first step was smart – to buy her [cookbook], An Invitation to Indian Cooking, and follow it with a certain amount of diligence. And that's how I learned to cook Indian food."
Global Chef Champion For over half a century, Madhur Jaffrey has taught countless people about Indian cooking, expertly crafting and documenting Indian traditions and recipes in myriad books and on television.
The 50th anniversary edition of Jaffrey's ground-breaking book comes out on 21 November, beautifully illustrated with Jaffrey's drawings and a foreword by chef and fellow cookbook author Yotam Ottolenghi.
"It's amazing how prescient the title of the book was for the arc of Jaffrey's writing career," said Matt Sartwell of the legendary New York City food bookstore Kitchen Arts and Letters. "When An Invitation to Indian Cooking first came out in 1973 in the US, cooking Indian food was challenging for many people, as the availability of ingredients was highly erratic. Fifty years ago, people didn't think casually about mail ordering from a vendor in some other part of the country," he recalled.
Born in 1933, in pre-Partition India, Jaffrey was the youngest of six children in an affluent Delhi-based family. Her histrionic talents took her to London, where she studied at the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art and worked in the city's theatre scene. She married fellow Indian dramatist Saeed Jaffrey, with whom she migrated to America in 1958. While she swiftly rose to fame as a film actress, notably in Merchant-Ivory productions, Jaffrey's journey in New York City took a different turn after parting ways with Saeed in 1966.
Navigating the complexities of solo parenthood with three children, Jaffrey found solace and purpose in her culinary prowess, cooking and entertaining frequently at home. After winning an award for her work in a film called Shakespeare Wallah, she was approached by The New York Times food critic, Craig Claiborne for an interview. This fortuitous meeting gave Jaffrey an unforeseen visibility, a windfall she astutely decided to channel into the creation of a cookbook.
As recounted by legendary book editor, Judith Jones, in her memoir, The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food, Jaffrey's manuscript was extremely compelling. Jones wrote, "When Madhur Jaffrey's manuscript came to me at Knopf, I was immediately persuaded that food-conscious Americans were ready for authentic Indian cuisine, particularly if they had someone as skilful as Madhur guiding them. She was canny enough to realise, it was apparent, that she had to seduce us slowly, step by step."
Jaffrey seamlessly transitioned into a cultural ambassador, expertly crafting and documenting Indian traditions and recipes for an intrigued American audience. Jaffrey explained that when she started writing about Indian food, she felt people knew so little about it. "In the global culinary arena, Indian cuisine often grapples with misconceptions and preconceived notions. Outsiders frequently blur the lines between spice and heat, a balance shaped by regional influences and contexts. Indian eateries abroad, unfortunately, perpetuated stereotypes by predominantly offering nationalistic dishes, while much of the food writing contributed to an air of mystique, rather than demystifying Indian flavours," she said.
"They always called it 'curry', and one curry powder went into everything, making it all taste the same," Jaffrey added. "I used to tell them we have such varied food in India. I feel if they know a little more about the variety within India and our exquisite dishes and ingredients – and trust me, even Indians don't know that – that would be great!"
"I think Madhur had a vision of where she wanted to take people," said Sartwell, "and she has stayed true to that, keeping her point of view, and these days, when you can get all the recipes you want for free, what people still tend to pay for is a point of view. And she offers people rewards for that.
In 2022, Jaffrey was awarded one of India's highest civilian honours, the Padma Bhushan, for her cultural ambassadorship through cuisine. Indian journalist Vikram Doctor recounted how people would thank her for helping them learn how to cook through her clearly written and comprehensive recipes.
LMPC/Getty Images
Madhur Jaffrey won an award for her work in a film called Shakespeare Wallah (Credit: LMPC/Getty Images)
"I once saw how she got those recipes", he said excitedly. "During a visit to [the restaurant] Highway Gomantak, Madhur wanted to learn how to make the rice bhakri [round flatbreads] she was served, from the owners, the Potnis family. Madhur listened keenly as Mrs. Potnis concluded the steps involved, and remarked, 'Something is missing! Madhur persisted, and Mrs. Potnis finally remembered one detail. Just before you put the bhakri on the hot tawa [frying pan or griddle], sprinkle some water. And indeed, that steam prevents the bhakri from sticking. It was a masterclass in how to get an Indian recipe."
Jaffrey herself reiterates her hunger for this sort of tacit knowledge. "There is nothing like traveling to the country, cooking with people in their homes, feeling the emotions as you sit down and eat the food together with the family. You see the hands moving, and how they are picking up the food, and there is an emotional content in all of that that makes the food so valuable."
"Everyone can cook from a good cookbook," she added. "I always try to eat at people's homes in India. I watch them cook, observe the heat, whether they are stirring it lazily or doing it swiftly, and write all these things for my readers. But if I don't watch someone make it, then what have I learned?"
Through much of this experience of tasting her way through her travels, Jaffrey had a steadfast accomplice in her second husband, classical musician Sanford Allen, who has done more than just help her with the technical parts of writing a book. "Emotionally, Sanford has always been there, tasting all the food and encouraging me to write. He has always complained that I make one thing and never make it again; it disappears. He sometimes stands behind me and writes it down. I tell him, 'It's what's in the fridge, and I just put it together for dinner!' He has preserved recipes I would not have preserved."
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Madhur Jaffrey crafted Indian recipes for a Western audience (Credit: Trinity Mirror/Mirrorpix/Alamy)
In the landscape of writing about the food culture of India, Jaffrey certainly has her own unique style. "Madhur did something else, which other Indian culinary luminaries did not do. In An Invitation to Indian Cooking, she introduced the reader to the food in its context," said Doctor. While the book does not have many autobiographical details, it abounds with cultural context and evocative food memories that nourished her childhood. Jaffrey's prowess for storytelling is apparent in the book's introduction as she scripts how curry powder could have been the imaginative recreation of a home-bound British officer (she suggests David Niven). Her writing has an aural quality, putting the reader in the place of action – the home kitchen.
Jaffrey's steady, guiding voice provides a sense of being in safe hands. With decades of observing cookbook customers, Sartwell said, "Madhur is famous for being consistent and trustworthy, and she can put herself in a cook's head and anticipate questions they might ask about the process, which speaks to a certain intellectual and emotional sympathy. And as she extends that hand, you feel the presence of someone who will treat you well once you have taken it."
Fellow author Claudia Roden came to fame alongside Jaffrey, when Judith Jones published her seminal book, A Book of Middle Eastern Food, side-by-side with An Invitation to Indian Cooking. Since meeting at a party in James Beard's home in New York City, Roden and Jaffrey have been friends for over half a century, sharing culinary trips and annual encounters at the Oxford Food Symposium back in the UK. "Madhur drew the map on what was – and always is – valuable in food culture," said Roden. "All the new culinary innovations are marvellous. But she felt at the time she had to record a tradition. And she has a very refined palette, so she succeeds in keeping the soul and essence of these recipes."
Cinematic/Alamy
Madhur Jaffrey has appeared in many television cookery shows over the years (Credit: Cinematic/Alamy)
While there have been many editions of An Invitation to Indian Cooking published through the decades, there have been few revisions. Jaffrey explained: "Everything is sort of the same. People know about Indian food, and they don't know about Indian food. They pick up odd parts of it, like turmeric, or tamarind... But not the wholeness of Indian food … Indian food is not one ingredient or two ingredients. It's the combination! The magical combination of the ingredients in every dish makes Indian food."
"Indian food is not one ingredient or two ingredients. It's the combination! The magical combination of the ingredients in every dish makes Indian food."
When it comes to the future of Indian food, Jaffrey is passionate about what to share with the world. "I wish Indian chefs would tell us the stories they discover. What makes them feel that this dish is wonderful? I just want to know what you love and why you love it," she said.
But Jaffrey has a request for others discovering the plethora of ingredients and techniques from India. "I do not want them to muddle up too many things in a dish. There is kimchi in it, a little from Thailand or something from India or Vietnam, like a flitting butterfly," she said. "A little bit of this, a little bit of that, it doesn't do anything for me. I want food to be emotional. And for it to be emotional, you want it to be with you for some time. It has to develop within you, your family and your society to have any emotion or meaning."
Priya Mani
Madhur Jaffrey's cauliflower with onion and tomato dish (Credit: Priya Mani)
Cauliflower with onion and tomato recipe By Madhur Jaffrey
Serves 6-8
"When I delved into the nuances of cauliflower, I discovered its Western origins in India," said Jaffrey. "Despite its absence from our festive feasts, cauliflower has graced our family table since my early childhood. My mother would concoct a dish with cauliflower and grate a can of Kraft's cheddar cheese, a distinctly Western touch amid masalas and all, making it her own. I cherished every incarnation of cauliflower; it's been a constant in my life from the beginning."
Ingredients 1 medium- sized onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 4 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped a piece of fresh ginger, 5cm long and 2½cm wide (2-by-1in), peeled and coarsely chopped 1 large head fresh cauliflower, or 2 small ones 8 tablespoons vegetable oil ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 medium-sized fresh or canned tomato, peeled and chopped 1 tbsp chopped coriander 1 fresh hot green chilli, washed and finely sliced, or ¼ tsp cayenne pepper (optional) 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp garam masala 2 tsp salt 1 tbsp lemon juice
Method
Step 1 Put the chopped onion, garlic and ginger in a blender with 4 tbsp of water and blend to a paste.
Step 2 Break off the cauliflower into small florets, not longer than 2½-4cm (1-1½in), and not wider at the head than 1-2½ cm (½-1in). Wash in a colander and leave to drain.
Step 3 Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed 25-30cm (10-12in) pot over a medium flame, pour in the paste from the blender and add the turmeric. Fry, stirring, for 5 minutes.
Step 4 Add the chopped tomato, chopped coriander and green chilli or cayenne and fry 5 minutes. If necessary, add 1 tsp of warm water at a time and stir to prevent sticking. Now put in the cauliflower, ground coriander, cumin, garam masala, salt and lemon juice. Stir for a minute. Add 4 tbsp warm water, stir, cover, lower flame and allow to cook slowly 35 to 45 minutes (the tightly packed cauliflower heads take longer to cook). Stir gently every 10 minutes or so. The cauliflower is done when each floret is tender with just a faint trace of crispness along its inner spine.
Step 5 To serve, lift out gently and place in a serving dish – a low, wide bowl would be best. Serve with hot chapatis [griddle-cooked flatbreads], pooris [fried breads] or parathas [flaky flatbreads] or serve with any kind of lentils and plain boiled rice.
(From An Invitation to Indian Cooking: 50th Anniversary Edition by Madhur Jaffrey ©1973, 2023 by Madhur Jaffrey. Excerpted by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.)
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A tour of San Francisco's best cocktail bars from mixologist Josh Harris
By Jenna Scatena Features correspondent
SiliconValleyStock/Alamy
A tour of San Francisco's best bars from mixologist Josh Harris (Credit: SiliconValleyStock/Alamy)
From Tadich Grill to Comstock Saloon, famed mixologist Josh Harris shares five of his favourite bars inspired by the city's notorious Barbary Coast era.
San Francisco's Barbary Coast, a red-light district which lasted from the 1849 California Gold Rush until roughly the Roaring 1920s, was one of the most colourful and notorious neighbourhoods in American history. For much of the 19th and early 20th Centuries, it was populated by miners, sailors, criminals and a variety of other unsavoury characters who flocked to the city's bustling waterfront. The Barbary Coast became renowned for its saloons, dance halls, brothels and nightlife, and it set the stage for a cocktail revolution that swept across the country. Here, drinks weren't just viewed as libations, but instead acted as a form of entertainment, with bartenders held in high regard due to their skill and showmanship.
Today, the Barbary Coast's legacy can still be felt (and tasted) in many of San Francisco's best bars. This spirit of "Old" San Francisco remains especially alive in parts of the modern North Beach, Chinatown and Financial District neighbourhoods that once comprised it. Connected to this iconic period of history is a unique array of cocktails that earn awards and praise from imbibers around the world.
Josh Harris is the proprietor of Trick Dog, a James Beard Foundation Award-nominated bar that captures the spirit of the city's Barbary Coast days by infusing each craft cocktail with distinct flavours that echo the city's rich history. Here, he recommends his favourite cocktail bars around San Francisco.
IMAGES@ARTIST-AT-LARGE/Alamy
True to its name, Comstock Saloon's entrance looks like something from a Wild West film set (Credit: IMAGES@ARTIST-AT-LARGE/Alamy)
1. Best for restored splendour: Comstock Saloon
Harris says Comstock Saloon provides a captivating and authentic glimpse into San Francisco's resplendent Barbary Coast past. First opened in 1907, it's one of the few places that can truly claim to be reminiscent of the notorious era. Most recently restored to its former glory in 2010, the Comstock Saloon sits at the crossroads of North Beach, Chinatown, Financial District and Jackson Square. With its cosy booths and old mahogany bar, the influential establishment continues to stay true to the past while carving out a new identity of its own.
One of their well-known favourites is the Sazerac, a combination of rye whiskey, bitters and absinthe. However, in addition to the classic cocktails and fine spirits, Harris recommends the saloon's signature Comstock burger and fresh oysters. You'll also find live jazz every night that they're open (from Tuesday through Saturday), bringing a lively atmosphere.
Website: www.comstocksaloon.com Address: 155 Columbus Ave, San Francisco, CA 94133 Phone: +1 415-617-0071 Instagram: @comstocksaloon/
Randy Duchaine/Alamy
As it proudly proclaims over its door, Tadich Grill is California's oldest continuously run restaurant (Credit: Randy Duchaine/Alamy)
2. Best for 1800s history: Tadich Grill
For a taste of San Francisco's storied past, Harris says there's no better place to visit than the Tadich Grill in the heart of the Financial District. Located in the Barbary Coast area since 1849, this beloved seafood eatery is the oldest continuously run restaurant in California, and the third-oldest in the United States.
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From the long bar (one side is for standing-only drinks; seating is further down), enjoy classic low-proof cocktails or Scotch whisky. According to Harris, the Tadich Grill serves one of the best dry martinis around town, a time-honoured mix of gin and vermouth. Tadich Grill is especially known for its fresh seafood, and the cioppino, (a seafood soup created in San Francisco) and clam chowder, are two standout dishes on the menu. They only take bookings for half the restaurant, so it's first-come, first-served for the remaining seats, which always go fast.
Website: www.tadichgrillsf.com Address: 240 California St, San Francisco, CA 94111 Phone: +1 415-391-1849 Instagram: @tadichgrill/
Stars and Stripes/Alamy
To find Bix, wander through Gold Street (Credit: Stars and Stripes/Alamy)
3. Best hidden haunt: Bix
Bix pays homage to San Francisco's Barbary Coast era with a swanky 1930s ambiance. To find it, wander through Jackson Square and turn down Gold Street, seemingly snapping back 100 years in time. Inside, you'll come face to face with grand decor reminiscent of the past, like Art Deco lamps, as well as live jazz music floating across the tables every night. The restaurant strikes a balance between speakeasy and elegant saloon, offering modern American cuisine across the split-level dining room. One of Harris' favourite dishes is potato pillows with caviar.
White-jacketed bartenders stand behind a gently curved bar, mixing some of the better cocktails in town. Since assisting the martini revival in the late 1980s, Bix has experimented with classic cocktails and a few signature concoctions. Harris loves the BIX Sidecar, with cognac, dry curacao and lime juice, or the BIX Boulevardier of bourbon, carpano antica and St George Bruto Americano. Whether dining for a special occasion or just enjoying nibbles and Negronis, Harris maintains this is one spot where guests will find themselves transported back in time.
Website: www.bixrestaurant.com Address: 56 Gold St, San Francisco, CA 94133 Phone: +1 415-433-6300 Instagram: @bixsf/
Moongate Lounge
Moongate Lounge is a relative newcomer inspired by the Barbary Coast (Credit: Moongate Lounge)
4. Best modern ode to the past: Moongate Lounge
Step into the illustrious Moongate Lounge, an ode to San Francisco's Barbary Coast in the Chinatown neighbourhood. Since opening in 2016, "it's easily become one of the most captivating bars to go for a drink," Harris said. Be sure to admire the velvet, high-walled booths, marble tabletops and restored Chinese murals.
Explore the area Walking the Barbary Coast Trail is a great way to get to get to know the area and learn about its history. The trail features 180 bronze medallions and arrows guiding visitors through an era of gold rushers, railroad barons and visionaries.
Harris says one of the biggest draws here is Chef Brandon Jew's exquisite food programme from Mister Jiu's downstairs. Here, you'll find simpler-but-still-delicious versions of the Chinese-Californian dishes on offer at Moongate, like oysters with hawthorn jelly and tea-smoked olives. Still, most people come to Moongate Lounge for their rotating cocktail menu, which is inspired by the Chinese Lunar Calendar. Of the six house cocktails, Deimos (a mix of bourbon, oolong, green walnut and brined black sesame honey) or Ariel (vodka, li hing mui, almond milk, pomelo and osmanthus) are just some of the interesting concoctions regularly offered.
Website: www.moongatelounge.com Address: 28 Waverly Pl, San Francisco, CA 94108 Phone: +1 415-857-9688 Instagram: @moongatelounge/
Emily Riddell/Alamy
If there's such a thing as a Barbary Coast-era dive, Li Po is it (Credit: Emily Riddell/Alamy)
5. Best Barbary-inspired dive bar: Li Po Cocktail Lounge
Li Po is a one-of-a-kind homage to "San Francisco's Barbary Coast Chinatown nightlife scene from back in the day", Harris said. Very little has changed here since the 1930s, despite many of the neighbourhood's original clubs and lounges closing down during the 1960s. The unpretentious dive bar is set behind large red double doors on Grant Avenue, marked by an unmissable neon sign it that has become one of the area's landmarks.
Barbary 101 The term "Barbary Coast' comes from North Africa's Barbary Coast, where local pirates launched raids on nearby coastal towns and ships.
Inside, you'll find distinctly unique interior, with wraparound bar, red leather booths, hanging Chinese lanterns and a golden Buddha statue behind the bar. Strangers become friendly neighbours over flavourful Mai Tais, a house specialty, crafted from ingredients inspired by local tradition not found elsewhere. The no-nonsense atmosphere – and what Harris calls "lethal mai tais" – charmed even the late Anthony Bourdain, who featured Li Po in the San Francisco episode of The Layover.
Website: https://lipolounge.com/ Address: 916 Grant Ave, San Francisco, CA 94108 Phone: +1 415-982-0072
BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.
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Kanuchi: A nut-based soup to celebrate autumn
By Nina Friend Features correspondent
Metta Nielsen
The Cherokee dish called kanuchi is a thick soup made of nuts (Credit: Metta Nielsen)
In her new cookbook, Corn Dance, Loretta Barrett Oden celebrates the diversity of Native American recipes, including a warm, nutty soup called kanuchi.
Loretta Barrett Oden is 81 years old and just came out with her first cookbook, Corn Dance: Inspired First American Cuisine, this past October. In the book, Oden shares stories and recipes that are intended to educate and enlighten the home cook with a celebration of indigenous foods. "I should have written this book many, many years ago," she said, "but I've just stayed so busy with one project after another, one restaurant after another, that I just now found the time to sit down and write." After years of telling the stories of other chefs and cultures, it was finally time to share her own.
Oden was born in Shawnee, Oklahoma, a small town 40 minutes by car east of Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Her paternal grandmother was a descendent of the Mayflower, a card-carrying member of the Daughters of the American Revolution. Her mother was from a large family of Potawatomi origins, now known as Citizen Potawatomi Nation. The nine different tribes of Potawatomi peoples are mostly from the Great Lakes region of the US and Canada. Oden refers to her tribe as Anishinaabe, a larger group of Indigenous peoples that encompasses Citizen Potawotomi Nation as well the Ojibwe, among others.
"Back in the 1940s and 1950s, it was not really cool to be native," Oden said. "I'm rather fair-skinned, I have kind of blue-green eyes, and hence, I kind of 'passed' as we called it back then."
"Passed", Oden explained, refers to being perceived as white.
By the age of 10 or 12, Oden came to understand that she was Native, the same as her many cousins who had darker skin. "Growing up with the influences of both sides was a little confusing, but then things started clarifying when I learned more about both family's history."
Over the years, Oden, who was an avid home cook, became increasingly interested in indigenous ingredients and cuisine. In 1993, she opened The Corn Dance Café (now closed) in Santa Fe, New Mexico, with one of her sons, Clay. Back then, she observed that Indigenous chefs were tapped for the spotlight pretty much exclusively around Thanksgiving, but now, she said, "We're fashionable year-round."
"Here, every day is Thanksgiving Day"
Oden's restaurant highlighted native ingredients, which included turkey with cornbread dressing, no matter the time of year. When guests asked why there was always Thanksgiving food on the menu, Oden would reply, "Here, every day is Thanksgiving Day." Oden celebrated Thanksgiving with her family as a child, and carried that tradition on with her sons, referring to it as "a huge holiday for us, and a time for the families to gather."
Ethan Stewart
Loretta Barrett Oden recently published her first cookbook, Corn Dance: Inspired First American Cuisine (Credit: Ethan Stewart)
In carrying on her quest to showcase diverse indigenous ingredients, Oden includes many recipes in her book using them. One such recipe is the Cherokee dish called kanuchi, a thick soup made of nuts. "Many south-eastern tribes have their own version of kanuchi," Oden writes. "Years ago, nutmeat paste would be shaped into softball-sized hunks and stored in wood barrels or clay pots to be used for making this soup and thickening stews throughout the winter."
Traditionally, kanuchi is made with hickory nuts (a nut tree that's endemic to North America) that are pounded into a paste using a mortar and pestle. If you can't find hickory nuts, Oden suggests using raw pecans or a mix of pecans and walnuts. As for transforming those nuts into a paste, Oden says you can opt to stick with a mortar and pestle, as she does (she likes the therapeutic feel of grinding things "the old way"), or simply pop the nuts into a blender.
Oden serves kanuchi the traditional way, over hominy (dried corn treated with lye), with the added flair of roasted sweet potato on top. She likes the sweet toastiness of the sweet potatoes with the nuttiness of the kanuchi, balanced with the chew of the hominy. The hominy itself nods both to the book's title and to The Corn Dance Café.
Oden has dedicated the second part of her life to storytelling through food. In 2006, she won an Emmy for a PBS series she hosted, Seasoned With Spirit, about the foodways of different Native American communities across the US. In 2021, she became the Indigenous food consultant to Thirty Nine Restaurant in Oklahoma City's First Americans Museum.
Oden has been excited by the increasing wave of young Native American chefs who have opened high-profile restaurants, and the many cookbooks coming out that delve into different sides of Indigenous culture. "I think our presence is being recognised," she said.
"We're an oral tradition people, we really didn't have a lot written down," Oden said. "Now it's all getting written down. It's documented. We're able to cook and share this food and tell the stories. And that's my favourite part."
Metta Nielsen
The Cherokee dish called kanuchi is a thick soup made of nuts (Credit: Metta Nielsen)
Kanuchi recipe By Loretta Barrett Oden
Serves 4 to 6
In this recipe, a food processor transforms the nuts into a paste (saving the time of pounding). It's made with the simplest ingredients, so the taste of the nuts shines through.
Ingredients 113g (4oz) raw hickory nuts, pecans or a mix of walnuts and pecans 1 litre (1qt) cold water 1 tsp salt, or more to taste 1 tbsp maple syrup, or more to taste 1 cup cooked and drained whole or cracked hominy or 1 sweet potato, roasted, peeled, and cut into ½-inch dice
Method
Step 1 In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, process the nuts to form a thick paste, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice, about 3 minutes. Scrape the nut paste into a large stockpot and add the water and salt. Set the pot over high heat and bring the water to a boil, whisking the nut paste until it dissolves and the liquid thickens. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered, stirring often, until the liquid is reduced by half, about 30 minutes.
Step 2 Stir in the maple syrup, increase the heat, and bring the mixture to a boil, cooking until any separated fats on the surface have emulsified back into the soup. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve warm over hominy or roasted sweet potatoes.
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The right way to make kouign-amann
By Hugh Tucker Features correspondent
Sergii Koval/Alamy
The right way to make kouign-amann (Credit: Sergii Koval/Alamy)
A small group of French pastry chefs aim to preserve the quality and techniques used to make the buttery, flaky and indulgent pastry from Brittany.
On a Sunday morning in the French coastal town of Douarnenez, a queue snakes out the door of a boulangerie. This is a common enough sight across the country, where picking up freshly made bread is a daily ritual, but here the people aren't just buying a baguette. Most are also waiting to purchase one of the kouign-amann, dubbed 'the fattiest pastry in Europe', which sit in stacks behind the counter, their laminated pastry glinting as they're picked up and slipped into a greaseproof paper bag.
Eaten warm, the cakes are an exercise in indulgence. The chewy, caramelised crust yields to expose the flaky pastry of the interior, bursting with a rich, buttery flavour. Translated from the Breton language, kouign-amann literally means 'butter cake', which is appropriate, because of the six ingredients in the traditional recipe, butter features in the highest quantity.
Kouign-amann are an institution in Douarnenez, a traditional fishing town situated in the west of France's Brittany region, having been invented there some 160 years ago. The pastry was born out of necessity when the baker, Yves René Scordia, who owned a shop in the town, needed to replenish his stock in a hurry after selling out of cakes. Finding he had bread dough, butter and sugar, he combined the ingredients with the folding technique used for puff pastry, and the result was the kouign-amann.
The cake quickly became popular across Brittany and was soon known throughout France. However, it was often attributed to larger cities in Brittany like Vannes, Saint-Malo or La Rochelle, and, as it eventually began to be produced on an industrial scale and by bakers who approximated or altered the recipe, bakers from Douarnenez making it in the traditional way felt that it had begun to stray from the quality of the original.
For this reason, in November 1999, 17 pastry chefs and bakers came together with a shared passion for their town's speciality to form the Association of the Kouign-Amann of Douarnenez, with the aim of promoting the cake and preserving its quality and the techniques used to make it.
Pascal Jaïn, boulanger, pâtissier and chocolatier, is a member of the association and produces kouign-amann at his bakery, Boulangerie Jaïn, in Douarnenez. For him, the cake is defined by the skill of those baking it.
"What makes the kouign-amann so special is its making, which is very simple – bread dough, butter and sugar – but it all relies on the technique," said Jaïn. "All the members of the association use the same ingredients. The quantities may vary but not that much. The most important thing is the method. In my bakery, we have three people making kouign-amann and we can tell who made each one as they come out of the oven."
Traditionally, the cakes feature no additional flavouring and are made to serve multiple slices, but smaller, individual cakes called kouignettes have become increasingly popular, as have flavoured versions. Jaïn embraces these changes but is keen to ensure that the original version doesn't disappear.
Hemis/Alamy
Individual cakes called kouignettes have become increasingly popular (Credit: Hemis/Alamy)
"You can find kouign-amann in all corners of Brittany, but for us, it is another product, not the one we defend," said Jaïn. "We are not saying that ours is better, but that it's made with the original technique [with each cake made individually by hand using traditional bread dough and without any added flavourings or garnishes], that it is the authentic end product, and that it deserves to be tasted. We want the way it is made in Douarnenez to survive."
Kouign-amann have become much more than just a regional speciality. Over the last decade or so, the cake has been making waves in bakeries across the US and has also found popularity in Japan and Singapore.
Belinda Leong, renowned pastry chef and owner of bpatisserie in San Francisco, discovered the kouign-amann while interning at a bakery in New York. "When I saw it, I was intrigued by the look, the texture, the flavour, and how I had never seen a pastry like this before. I wanted to immediately find out how to make it and learn about it," she said.
Leong took the idea of the cake with her after her internship and spent years making kouign-amann for VIPs at the Restaurant Gary Danko in San Francisco, eventually bringing it to bpatisserie, where it's now an established speciality produced in classic, seasonal fruit and chocolate varieties. Despite being less familiar than other French patisseries, Leong explained it's a hit with the locals. "It's hugely popular. Many people ask about it and how to pronounce it, there are 50 ways to say kouign-amann [and] I've heard many of them."
Thrina Low, owner of Brera Bakery in Singapore, wasn't sure if the idea to start making kouign-amann came from her team or if it was requested by French expatriates, but it's since stuck as a staple of the bakery due to its popularity with her customers. She explained, "Once they try it, they get hooked and keep coming back for more. It's been a sell-out item every day." Low has also experimented with different flavours, including cinnamon and fresh pineapple with cream, and she is currently working on a cardamon version.
Both bpatisserie and Brera Bakery reported that their traditional, unflavoured varieties of the kouign-amann are their bestselling versions. Even divided by thousands of miles, the tastes of the people have confirmed the principles of the bakers of Douarnenez, that simple is best, and it's the skill of the baking that makes the kouign-amann stand out.
Hemis/Alamy
You can find kouign-amann in all corners of Brittany (Credit: Hemis/Alamy)
Authentic Kouign-Amann of Douarnenez recipe By Pascal Jaïn
Ingredients 150g flour plus more to dust your work surface 100g water 3g baker's yeast 3g salt 175g semi-salted butter at room temperature 175g sugar, plus more for sprinkling milk, for brushing
Method
Step 1 In a standing electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the flour, water, yeast and salt and knead the dough for 8 to 10 minutes until smooth and elastic. Cover the bowl with a clean cloth and leave to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Step 2 Flour your kitchen counter and roll the dough into a circle with a rolling pin until it's roughly 1cm (¼in) thick. Flatten the butter and place on the dough, up to 1-2cm (¼-½in) from the border. Sprinkle the sugar on top uniformly. Use your fingers to gently incorporate the sugar with the butter without tearing the dough. Fold all four sides to the centre to trap the butter and the sugar inside the dough.
Step 3 Roll the dough into a rectangle and give it three 90-degree "turns" following the technique for puff pastry. To do this, fold the dough in thirds like a trifold wallet, folding an outer third to cover the central third and then folding the remaining dough over the top. Turn it 90 degrees and roll it out to a rectangle. Repeat this two more times, being sure to turn the dough 90 degrees. Make sure your countertop and your rolling pin are dusted with flour and give the "turns" to the dough softly so that the sugar and the butter do not come out. (The difference with kouign-amann versus puff pastry is that the 3 turns with kouign-amann are executed one after the other without chilling the dough.)
Step 4 Once done, transfer the dough to a sheet of baking paper (parchment), put the dough in a round baking dish (about 20-22cm/8in diameter) and press the dough into the shape of the dish using your fingers.
Step 5 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F (gas mark 6). Use a knife to score diamonds on top. Brush the top of the dough with milk. Bake for approximately 35 minutes until the top is golden brown and caramelised. Do not take the kouign-amann out of the dish straight away; leave for 15 to 20 minutes. Before serving, sprinkle some sugar on top.
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Donkkaseu: An old-school Korean pork chop
By Jonathan Hatchman Features correspondent
Photographs by Toby Scott
Donkkaseu: An old-school Korean pork chop (Credit: Photographs by Toby Scott)
Cookbook author Su Scott shares her recipe for donkkaseu – South Korea's beloved crispy golden pork loin topped with a glossy brown glaze.
Su Scott, author of the recently published cookbook, Rice Table: Korean Recipes and Stories to Feed the Soul, fondly remembers her first taste of donkkaseu, a thin slice of lean pork, typically cut from the loin, breaded and plunged into seething hot oil until golden and crunchy, then drizzled with a brown sauce similar to thick gravy.
Donkkaseu is often compared to Japanese tonkatsu, a panko-coated pork cutlet that's served sliced, though the Korean version is served whole. Scott remembers her first donkkaseu being blanketed under "thick, rich brown sauce" which, she writes is "loosely based on demi-glace”, a reduction of beef or veal stock used as the base of countless French sauces, with a perfect touch of acidity. The fried pork shared the plate with cold macaroni salad and shredded cabbage swirled with vinegary ketchup and mayonnaise.
<p><a href="#Old-School Pork Cutlet (Donkkaseu) recipe ">[jump to recipe]</a></p>
Scott first tried donkkaseu as a child in Seoul, where her family enjoyed weekend dinners at gyeongyangsiks. These restaurants, which were popular in the 1970s and 1980s, served Korean food with Western twists; dishes were eaten with a knife and fork as opposed to chopsticks. It was at one special gyeongyangsik where Scott had that memorable first bite of the crispy pork cutlet.
"The place always felt so special to me as it was the very first time I'd experienced something entirely new," said Scott. "The strong memories of the restaurant and how it made me feel at the time stayed with me but sadly, the place no longer exists."
Donkkaseu is still served in restaurants around South Korea, but it's also easy to make at home. Scott shares a recipe for her take on the dish, called Old-School Pork Cutlet, in her cookbook.
Scott's food career began after moving to London in 2000 when she was 19, but it really took off after winning an Observer Food Monthly Award in 2019 for a recipe based on her mother's kimchi jjigae. The rustic, spicy stew, typically made with pork belly, tofu and kimchi, was voted Best Readers' Recipe by The Observer's food magazine.
"At the time, I was struggling with [an] identity crisis and recovering from post-natal depression after the birth of my daughter. It was the dish that first brought me back the taste of home that I really missed. The recipe was very personal to me, carrying so many layers of emotion, which eventually became the reason and motivation to further explore my heritage through memories of taste," said Scott.
Rice Table came about as a result of Scott's identity issues with the heavy responsibility of being the sole bearer of Korean culture and heritage to her half-Korean, half-British daughter. When writing, she drew inspiration from donkkaseu and other dishes from her childhood.
"I was too busy and too eager to integrate [and] make a new home for myself in the city that I madly fell in love with," Scott explained. "In the process, I had lost all that makes me Korean, including my ability to speak my mother tongue fluently. It was only through cooking the dishes of my own childhood [that] I was able to reconnect and rebuild my Korean heritage.”
In Rice Table, Scott outlines a series of recipes known commonly as bapsang, representing what she describes as a "very ordinary spread of daily home-cooked meals that sustain us". Scott added, "I wanted to celebrate how food can connect the small pieces together to make us feel whole."
One of those dishes is donkkaseu, which was first brought to Korea during the Japanese occupation in the 1930s. It is believed that donkkaseu is heavily inspired by European classics such as Italian veal Milanese, French escalope and Austrian and German schnitzel. At the time, the dish was enjoyed exclusively by wealthy people in Korea; pork was expensive, as was the vast amount of oil needed to fry the cutlet. But today, two versions of donkkaseu are eaten throughout South Korea – the thin cutlet popularised by the spread of gyeongyangsik restaurants, and a thicker version introduced by American soldiers during the 1980s, following the Korean War.
Scott's thinner version of the old-school pork cutlet recipe is a fairly simple, deeply comforting dish. Although the pork needs to be deep-fried, it takes just four minutes to cook once marinated for 30 minutes in the fridge. To tenderise the meat, Scott recommends using a meat mallet or a needle-bladed tenderiser to flatten the pork, though a rolling pin or the back of a knife can be used. She also strongly suggests following the recipe steps precisely to recreate the dish exactly as it was when she first experienced it.
Once pounded, the pork is marinated in a blitzed mixture of milk, onion, garlic powder and salt to season and help further tenderise the meat before it is dredged in flour, beaten eggs and panko breadcrumbs in preparation for frying. While the pork marinates, a simple sauce is made, striking a precise balance of sweet, savoury, bitter, spicy and acidic notes. It's then poured over the pork and served alongside shredded cabbage salad, just like the one accompanying Scott's first donkkaseu.
Photographs by Toby Scott
While the pork marinates, a simple sauce is made, striking a precise balance of sweet, savoury, bitter, spicy and acidic notes (Credit: Photographs by Toby Scott)
Old-School Pork Cutlet (Donkkaseu) recipe
Serves 2
In the introduction to Rice Table, Scott writes: "I still remember so vividly the first time I tried this sweet-crumbed, crispy pork cutlet: I was sitting at the high countertop looking into the open kitchen, the warm pot of watery soup was gently bubbling away while the endless slabs of pork were being deep-fried right in front of my eyes. Young families sat in an orderly but crowded fashion, and the restaurant was buzzing from the living and breathing sound of excited diners chattering. There, the chefs moved like dancers to the beautifully orchestrated symphony of a working kitchen. Everything felt so electric, and to my young eyes, beyond food, it was magical to be part of something entirely new."
Ingredients For the pork marinade: two 150g (5oz) trimmed pork loin steaks ½ onion, roughly chopped 3 tbsp whole milk ½ tsp garlic powder ½ tsp sea salt flakes For the sauce: tbsp golden granulated sugar (light brown sugar) tbsp tomato ketchup (catsup) 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 2 tsp soy sauce 1 tsp English mustard 10g (1 tbsp) unsalted butter 10g (2 tbsp) plain (all-purpose) flour 300ml (10fl oz/1¼ cups) water ½ tsp freshly cracked black pepper 3 tbsp whole milk sea salt flakes, to taste To finish: 3 tbsp plain (all-purpose) flour 1 egg, whisked with a pinch of salt 100g (3½oz/2 cups) panko breadcrumbs vegetable oil, for frying 120g (4oz) white cabbage, shredded generous splash of Worcestershire sauce generous splash of extra-virgin olive oil good pinch of salt and pepper
Method
Step 1 To make the pork, prepare the pork slices by flattening and tenderising them using a meat mallet or needle-bladed tenderiser so the slices are about 1cm (¾in) thick. Use clingfilm (plastic wrap) or a reusable bag to protect the flesh of the pork when flattening.
Step 2 Place the onion and milk in a food processor and blend until smooth. Stir in the garlic powder and salt. Pour over the tenderised pork and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Step 3 Meanwhile, to make the sauce, combine the sugar, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce and English mustard in a bowl. Mix well and set aside.
Step 4 In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter, then add the flour. Cook the flour over medium-low heat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture turns toffee brown in colour, making sure you don't let it burn. Carefully pour in the water a little at a time, whisking constantly to keep the sauce smooth. Stir in the ketchup mixture and season with the black pepper. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 15 minutes to thicken the sauce, stirring occasionally.
Step 5 Stir the milk into the sauce and season with a pinch of salt, if necessary. Simmer for 5 minutes to thicken slightly; the sauce should have a pourable consistency. Keep warm until needed.
Step 6 Remove the pork from the fridge. Scrape off as much of the marinade as possible and pat the meat dry with kitchen paper. Have three shallow, rimmed plates or trays ready: one filled with the flour, one with the egg and one with the panko breadcrumbs. Spray the breadcrumbs with a little water to moisten.
Step 7 Keep one hand for the egg and the other hand dry for handling the flour and breadcrumbs. Lightly dust the pork with flour, dip into the whisked egg, then push into the breadcrumbs gently but firmly until evenly coated. Repeat with the other piece and set aside.
Step 8 Prepare a cooling rack set over a roasting tray. Fill a large, heavy-based saucepan or large frying pan (skillet) suitable for deep-frying with vegetable oil. Ideally, it should be filled deep enough to submerge the pork cutlets, but if not, remember to flip the cutlets halfway through to ensure even cooking. Heat the oil to 160C/320F. Add the cutlets to the oil one at a time and fry for 4 minutes, or until golden and cooked through. When ready, transfer to the cooling rack. Any excess oil will drip down.
Step 9 Toss the cabbage in a bowl with the Worcestershire sauce and olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Divide the pork cutlets between two individual plates without slicing. Pour the warm brown sauce generously over the top. Serve with shredded cabbage salad.
(Recipe excerpted from Rice Kitchen by Su Scott (Quadrille). Copyright © 2023.)
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A brined turkey to 'rival all others'
By Nina Friend Features correspondent
Design Pics/Alamy
(Credit: Design Pics/Alamy)
In her new cookbook, Chími Nu'am, Sara Calvosa Olson celebrates Indigenous American ingredients and seasonal flavours, like roasted turkey with apple brandy acorn gravy.
Sara Calvosa Olson, the author of Chími Nu'am: Native California Foodways for the Contemporary Kitchen, published this past September, is a descendant of the Karuk tribe of Indigenous Americans, the the second largest Native American group in California.
With Chími Nu'am (which means "let's eat" in Kanuk), Olson looks to encourage people to start thinking about a decolonised diet, connecting to the land and native ingredients prior to European colonisation. "This is about cooking not just for ourselves, but for our communities," Olson said. "And having people get into a different way of thinking about food and what's around us and where our food comes from." In other words, Chími Nu'am is as much about understanding the history of each recipe – and its ingredients – as it is about the edible end product.
Take, for example, Olson's apple cider brined turkey with apple brandy acorn gravy. In the US, turkey is largely tied to Thanksgiving, but Olson wants people to reconsider the bird as a perennial staple. "I know that people can tend to get burnt out on turkey at this time of year, but all year long turkey has a place in our diets," Olson said. "It's indigenous to this continent and was specifically introduced to California in the 1800s to provide more wild game for ranchers. Now, there are wild turkeys all around California, and they are an excellent source of protein, low fat, and really flavourful."
Olson sees the autumn months as a chance to gather and feast. This season also marks the beginning of the Karuk new year, which, for her family, involves traditions such as taking the ferry to Alcatraz in San Francisco for the annual Indigenous Peoples Sunrise Ceremony on Indigenous Peoples Day; it's also known as Unthanksgiving Day, honouring Native Americans and their resistance, resilience and survival after European colonisation.
"We appreciate being able to participate in this tradition," Olson writes. "There is nothing better than greeting the rising sun in a place with so much Indigenous history and power, being in community, and starting a new year from a place of strength and togetherness."
Nelia Marshall Photography
Sara Calvosa Olson celebrates Indigenous American ingredients and seasonal flavours (Credit: Nelia Marshall Photography)
After the ceremony, Olson and her family head back home for a meal complete with a big turkey and tons of sides. "Feasting at this time of year is intrinsic to native communities," Olson said. "Regardless of it being Thanksgiving, we still celebrate it as an opportunity to be together and set our intentions for the next year as a community."
In her cookbook, Olson aims to make indigenous ingredients and traditional Karuk recipes accessible to a whole range of home cooks. But the book might feel, in her words, "inconvenient". That's because many of the recipes call for ingredients that are not so well known and sometimes difficult to find.
"You can't really just go to the grocery store and get acorn flour or peppernuts," Olson said, referring to the nuts of the bay laurel tree, sometimes also called California bay nuts. Although some ingredients that are important to Karuk cuisine, like elk and venison, have become more widely available (and several recipes in the book can be adapted with simple store-bought substitutions), Olson hopes that home cooks go a little bit deeper than reaching for an easy fix.
For her autumn feast, Olson argues that her cider-brined turkey is the turkey to rival all others. "If you're anti-turkey because you have always found it dry and flavourless, then please give it one more chance using this recipe," she writes in the cookbook. What makes it so good? The turkey rests for 36 to 48 hours in a brine of warming ingredients like apple cider, juniper berries and cinnamon. It's served with a gravy that's salty and savoury from turkey stock and fruity from apple brandy, but there's also an unexpected depth of earthy flavour from the addition of acorn flour.
Heyday
Acorns are traditional to many tribal communities in the US (Credit: Heyday)
Olson said that she and her family eat acorn flour every day, sometimes as a base for focaccia, or mixed into oatmeal, or even whipped into salad dressings. "They're perfect food," Olson said, nodding to the fact that acorns contain a complete set of amino acids and are therefore incredibly good for you. They also carry a lot of history. "Acorns are traditional to so many tribal communities in California and outside of California," Olson said. "It's one thing that many of us have in common. In hard years, acorns are always there to sustain and feed us."
Making acorn flour entails gathering acorns, letting them dry out, cracking then peeling them, then blending the acorns with water into a milkshake-like consistency. After a few days in the refrigerator, in which you have to continuously drain off the old water and add new water to the acorn meal, it'll be ready to be dehydrated then blended into flour.
Acorn flour isn't widely sold in grocery stores, so Olson recommends two alternatives for the turkey gravy: chestnut flour, which is more available and has similar properties, or coconut flour, which changes the flavour slightly but has the same absorbency as acorn flour, yielding a gravy that's thick and silky.
With Chími Nu'am, Olson hopes to invite readers into her culture. "Let me show you how we do it in our house," she said, "in a way where we are centring Indigenous people." The title of the book says it all.
Heyday
Sara Calvosa Olson brines turkey with apple brandy (Credit: Heyday)
Apple cider brined turkey with apple brandy acorn gravy recipe By Sara Calvosa Olson
Serves 6
Ingredients
For the brine: 4 litres (4qts) apple cider 1½ cups salt ¼ cup allspice berries ¼ cup whole star anise 5 whole cloves 10 dried or 2 or 3 fresh bay leaves 1 tbsp juniper berries 1 tbsp peppercorns 1 long cinnamon stick, snapped in half 4 litres (4qts) water
For the bird: one 7kg (15lb) turkey ½ cup maple sugar 113g (1 stick) butter, at room temperature 6 to 8 sage leaves 2 apples, halved
For the gravy: 2 cups turkey stock, store-bought or homemade 4 tbsp acorn flour (chestnut or coconut flour may be substituted) ¼ cup Calvados (apple brandy) or apple cider or more stock ¼ cup half-and-half salt and pepper
Method
Step 1 In a large stockpot, heat 1 quart of cider, the salt, and all of the herbs and spices over medium heat, stirring until the salt has dissolved. Add the remaining 3 quarts cider and the water and stir. Set aside to cool. Pro-tip: If you need the brine to cool fast, just add the water in the form of ice cubes.
Step 2 Prepare the turkey by removing the neck and giblets and patting the bird authoritatively. Open an extra-large turkey brining bag and place the turkey inside along with the neck. Pour the brine inside, seal very well, and lug it to the refrigerator to brine for 36 to 48 hours.
Step 3 After it's finished brining, line a roasting pan with plenty of kitchen paper and place the turkey on top. Pat it dry and remove the herbs and spices from the outside. Don't rinse the turkey in the sink, as it can cause the spread of foodborne bacteria. Once you've cleaned it up (including the paper), return the turkey uncovered to the refrigerator to sit overnight.
Step 4 Preheat the oven to 175C/350F. Remove the turkey from the refrigerator. In a small bowl, mix together the maple sugar and butter. Using your fingers, carefully work the skin away from the breast and down and over the drumsticks. Gently shove three-quarters of the butter mixture under the skin, smearing it everywhere generously. Carefully place the sage leaves on top of the butter between the meat and the skin; if it's too difficult, just shove them in there. Rub the remaining butter mixture all over the outside of the bird. Stuff the cavity with apples. Add the brined turkey neck to the pan and roast it to use for stock later.
Step 5 Roast the turkey until the thickest part of the thigh reaches 80C/175F on a meat thermometer. This can take up to 4 hours, depending upon the size of your bird. Generally, it's about 13 minutes per 1 pound of unstuffed bird.
Step 6 Once the turkey is out of the oven, carefully transfer it from the roasting pan to a carving board, tent it with foil, and let it rest while you make the gravy.
Step 7 Pour the pan juices through a fine-mesh sieve into a measuring cup. Skim off 4 tbsp of fat and pour that fat into a large heavy saucepan; set aside the measuring cup and the saucepan.
Step 8 Back to your roasting pan. Pour the turkey stock into the roasting pan and place it directly onto your stove over medium heat. Using a wooden spoon, scrape up all bits from the bottom of the roasting pan. Pour this through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl and set aside.
Step 9 In the saucepan with the fat, mix in the acorn flour and heat it over medium heat for 1 minute. Pour in the reserved roasting pan stock and the reserved pan juices, whisking to incorporate. Add the apple brandy and half-and-half and, whisking often, bring the mixture to a boil until the gravy thickens up a bit. Add salt and pepper to taste, pour into a gravy boat, and serve with carved turkey.
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Maryland fried chicken: A storied dish with Titanic history
By Liz Cook Features correspondent
San Francisco Chronicle/Hearst Newspapers/Getty Images
Fried chicken was once a status-connoting dish (Credit: San Francisco Chronicle/Hearst Newspapers/Getty Images)
While a menu from Titanic goes up for auction, a chef is paying homage to Maryland fried chicken, a dish served on the ocean liner's fateful last day, at his New York City pop-up.
Anyone interested in food as a window to class could do worse than exploring the options available on the RMS Titanic. The handful of menus that survived the wreck reveal important differences in the way the ocean liner's passengers ate. While third-class passengers dined on rice soup, gruel and cabin biscuits (essentially, a stomach-settling hardtack), first-class diners had a panoply of options.
Now, a first-class dinner menu from the Titanic – from 11 April 1912 – has been sold at an auction held on 11 November at Henry Aldridge & Son in Devizes in Wiltshire, England.
Andrew Aldridge, Managing Director at Henry Aldridge & Son, has more than 25 years of experience valuing and selling Titanic memorabilia. But Aldridge has more than just a business interest in the ocean liner. Like many people, he's been fascinated with the stories of the Titanic since he was a child; his eighth birthday cake was shaped like the Titanic. And what stands out most to Aldridge is "the breadth and volume of food that was on offer. First-class passengers on the Titanic were extremely well looked after."
That meant multiple courses, and multiple options for each course. Diners could choose from a menu that might include beef sirloin, spring lamb or duck in a port wine sauce. On 14 April, the infamous day Titanic struck an iceberg, diners had another choice: "chicken à la Maryland", also known as "Maryland fried chicken".
"It's a way of affording status to what is essentially a humble dish."
"It's a way of affording status to what is essentially a humble dish," says Joyce White, a food historian based in Annapolis, Maryland.
Maryland fried chicken – essentially, pan-fried chicken with a cream gravy – didn't always need the French accent to appeal to the upper class. In the early 19th Century, fried chicken was squarely a special-occasion dish, frequently cooked by enslaved African American women for wealthy Maryland households.
Shawshots/Alamy
Maryland fried chicken was listed on the 14 April Titanic menu as "chicken à la Maryland" (Credit: Shawshots/Alamy)
Those same women would often raise chickens and then sell the eggs – sometimes, even to their slaveholders – to trade for goods. "That was a mode of being able to earn some cash or trade for goods that you weren't allocated," White says. Slaughtering a young hen for an everyday meal just didn't make economic sense; the eggs were far more valuable than the meat.
But by the time Maryland fried chicken made its way onboard the Titanic, the rise of the commercial egg industry had changed that calculation. And so fried chicken, too, started to change from a status-connoting dish to more populist picnic fare. It's no wonder upper-class diners on the Titanic needed the "à la".
Despite its popularity, tracing Maryland fried chicken back to a single, definitive recipe can be challenging. Even famed culinarian James Beard had difficulty landing on a version to include in his 1972 book, American Cookery. "Strange as it may seem," Beard wrote in his introduction to the recipe, "no two recipes have any similarity when you compare them."
Any similarity might be a bit hyperbolic. Most recipes for Maryland fried chicken, past and present, agree on a few basics: the chicken should be dredged in seasoned flour and fried in a cast iron pan – never deep-fried. The pan should be covered with a lid partway through cooking so that the bird essentially steams. And the pan drippings should be whisked into a cream gravy – often a béchamel – either to spoon over the meat or serve alongside.
Stacey Newman
Maryland chicken is dredged in seasoned flour and fried in a cast iron pan (Credit: Stacey Newman)
Maryland fried chicken is a gloriously retro version of fried chicken – one that, until recently, seemed endangered.
"It's not something that a lot of people make anymore," says Kara Mae Harris, the author of Old Line Plate: Stories and Recipes from Maryland. "It used to appear in a lot of community cookbooks up through around the 1960s, and then it kind of died out."
Harris notes that Marylanders can still find that chicken a few places: Gertrude's, a restaurant inside the Baltimore Museum of Art, serves a "Maryland pan-fried chicken" on Tuesdays, and Baltimore's Silver Queen Café has a version on its menu, too. But both versions feel more like a throwback than a trend.
That may be changing thanks to chefs like Jared Howard, a native Marylander who operates the fast-casual food stall HoneyBunny in New York City. His specialty? A biscuit sandwich with pan-fried chicken and a shiitake béchamel. Think of it as Maryland fried chicken for a new generation.
Howard took a winding road to culinary entrepreneurship. He started working in restaurants in his mid-30s, balancing a budding interest in cooking with a full-time career in IT. By day, he worked as a corporate cybersecurity professional. By night, he was staging in some of New York's most prestigious kitchens: The Cecil (temporarily closed), Gotham Bar and Grill and Per Se. Eventually, he was offered a job at Per Se's sister restaurant, Bouchon, and had to make a tough choice – whether to keep his stable corporate job or go all-in on his dream of becoming an executive chef.
Max Flatow
Chef Jared Howard operates the fast-casual food stall HoneyBunny in New York (Credit: Max Flatow)
"I talked to a friend of mine who was in the business, and he said, 'Jared, you're too old to be an executive chef. Most people get in this industry when they're in their teens and twenties, and you're a 35-year-old line cook. If you want to be an executive chef, you need to own your own restaurant,'" Howard says. "And that was the first time I thought about entrepreneurship as a way to access my dream of cooking and being a chef."
Howard started digging into Maryland food history, searching for a fruitful personal connection. He found it in Maryland fried chicken. His first foray as a chef-entrepreneur was serving his take on the dish at a pop-up at chef JJ Johnson's Harlem restaurant, Fieldtrip. That experience spawned another pop-up in Brooklyn – and then, an application with the James Beard Foundation for a six-month business incubator opportunity at Market 57, a food hall at Pier 57 on New York's Hudson River. Howard is 45 now – and nowhere near aging out of the restaurant business.
At HoneyBunny – Howard's nickname for his 11-year-old daughter – Howard has reimagined Maryland fried chicken as an accessible, portable dish for a younger and more casual crowd. His signature sandwich is a garlic-buttered biscuit topped with fried chicken, hot sauce, house-cured pickles and a shiitake mushroom béchamel.
That shiitake béchamel is a tribute to the mushroom-soup gravy Howard's mother would serve over her own fried chicken and rice. But it's faithful to the broader Maryland fried chicken tradition, too. For her blog, Old Line Plate, Harris uncovered a recipe from the Baltimore & Ohio (B&O) Railroad dining car that that calls for "mushroom essence or puree" in the gravy.
Max Flatow
HoneyBunny makes a biscuit sandwich with pan-fried chicken and a shiitake bechamel (Credit: Max Flatow)
It's the kind of chef-y take that might appeal to even the first-class diners on the Titanic, a recipe that Howard is familiar with. His own research suggests the version served to Titanic's passengers would have featured not a cream gravy but something closer to a velouté (a sauce made from stock, flour and butter) with white wine.
And if you've missed Saturday's auction of Titanic memorabilia, Howard's sandwich would make a fine consolation prize. A less expensive one, too. The menu sold for £84,000. By comparison, Howard's Maryland fried chicken sandwich costs $15 (about £12) – and that includes Old-Bay-seasoned chips and a pickle.
You'll have to hurry to get that, too. Howard's residency at Market 57 lasts only six months; his stall will close in March. But he's hoping to sustain the kind of sales and interest that will allow him to transform HoneyBunny into a permanent stall, if not a standalone brick-and-mortar restaurant. So far, so good. Almost every day, Howard fields questions from curious diners about what distinguishes Maryland fried chicken from its peers. And he has a dozen stories at the ready about the dish and the local and international cooks who cemented its place in the culinary canon.
Stories keep traditions alive – they're the reason Maryland fried chicken continues to find new fans. They're the reason why 111 years after the Titanic sank, the ill-fated ocean liner continues to capture our imaginations. They're the reason a water-logged piece of paper sold on Saturday for the price of a luxury car.
"There were over 2,200 people on that ship," Aldridge says, "and every man, woman, and child had a story to tell. You had the richest man alive at the time, John Jacob Astor, and you had immigrant families on their way to start a new life. Death shows no bounds with class."
As it turns out, neither does fried chicken.
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The large and fluffy tamale few know
By Eva Sandoval Features correspondent
Hugo Espinoza
The tamales are tied and ready to steam (Credit: Hugo Espinoza)
An icon in its native land, the Guatemalan tamale is wrapped in a striking green banana leaf that gives way to an airy corn dumpling stuffed with spicy pork, peppers and olives.
Deep inside a 6th Century Mayan pyramid in Guatemala's Petén region, archaeologist Francisco Estrada-Belli stumbled on a massive carved frieze; a mythological scene. A Mayan king in apotheosis is flanked by two ancestor gods, each holding out a round-shaped offering. The glyph beneath reads: The first tamale.
"This was the biggest discovery of my life," said Estrada-Belli of the 2013 find. "It's very powerful symbolism that tells you how fundamental the tamale was regarded by the Maya."
In the English-speaking world, the word "tamale" is invariably associated with delicious Mexican husk-wrapped cornmeal dumplings. But tamales may actually be ancestral to Guatemala, Mexico's Southern neighbour and a crucial Mayan centre.
"We see images of tamales [in Guatemala] before the time of Christ," said Estrada-Belli. For instance, the San Bartolo mural discovered in Guatemala's Ixcan River Basin in 2001, depicts a maize ceremony and a woman holding three corn balls: tamales. "It's from 50 BC. There are no murals as early as this one in Mexico or anywhere else."
Not only does archaeological evidence point to Guatemala as the birthplace of tamales, but their depictions in Guatemalan Mayan art and ancient texts like the Dresden Codex (a 12th Century Mayan book) and the Florentine Codex, a 16th Century anthropological study of the Mesoamerican peoples, show that they evolved from naked balls of cornmeal called wa'aj.
Holmul Archaeological Project
In this frieze, an ancestor god offers a tamal to the Mayan king (Credit: Holmul Archaeological Project)
"[Wa'aj means] 'sacred food of the gods', said archaeogastronomist Regina Moraga. "There's no evidence that they were wrapped in leaves." It wasn't until after the arrival of Columbus – and influx of new ingredients – that the cornmeal balls took their iconic leaf-swaddled form. "The name comes from the Nahuatl (Aztec language) tamali," explained Moraga."Wrapped".
Today, hundreds of leaf-wrapped tamale varieties exist throughout Mesoamerica; the region of Central America spanning from Mexico to Honduras. So why is the Mexican tamale the only version known outside of Latin America? "Mexico is such a big country," explained chef Debora Fadul, owner of Guatemala City's award-winning plantation-to-table restaurant, Diacá. "Their cuisine is way more famous than the other Latin American countries."
But chef Mirciny Moliviatis, a Guatemalan culinary TV show host who's spent 15 years researching Guatemala's gastronomic culture, said: "I can assure you that Guatemala is the heart of the tamale-making world. We have the history and the recipes."
Debora Fadul
Chef Debora Fadul spoons fluffy masa onto leaves for her take on the tamale (Credit: Debora Fadul)
There are over 240 tamale varieties in Guatemala alone, including the pache, a tamale made with potatoes, the chocolatey tamal negro, and the boxbol, a squash tamale wrapped in chayote leaves. With so many variations, tamales are tricky to define. "It's something wrapped in a leaf," said Moliviatis. "Usually maize or starch."
The tamale legacy In December 2022, Moraga and a panel including archaeologists, ancestral cooks, anthropologists andChef Alex Quintana of Guatemala City's Quintana Bistro launched a petition to the National Congress of Guatemala to register the tamale as intangible cultural heritage. "The tamale has been eaten in Guatemala for thousands of years longer than the tortilla," said Quintana. "Our hope is that if the petition passes, we can take it to Unesco."
And beyond question, the tamale most tied to Guatemalan identity is the brightly-coloured tamal colorado, made with cornmeal, bell peppers, tomato-based recado (gravy), olives, capers and meat, all wrapped in dramatic green plantain leaves. Its preparation can take up to two days due to the nixtamalization, in which the corn is boiled in lime or ash, allowed to rest and cool, then milled before it's cooked with salt and pork fat; resulting in a fluffy masa (dough) that melts deliciously in the mouth. "They have more water than Mexican tamales," explained Chef Fadul. "That's why they're softer."
The tamal colorado isn't just colourful and delicious: archaeologists believe it is the direct descendant of the balls of masa depicted in Classic period Mayan art (250-900BCE).
Debora Fadul
Masa starts with the process of nixtamalizing corn, in which it's boiled in lime or ash (Credit: Debora Fadul)
"In the San Bartolo mural they look like pastries, an oval shape," said Estrada-Belli. "Presumably corn made with the process of nixtamalization, which the Mesoamerican people invented long before the Classic period. [The balls are covered in] a paste with red sauce; presumably tomatoes and chili. They look very much like the tamales that you buy now on the street."
So the tamal colorado is a Mayan recipe? "No," said Moraga. "It has a pre-Hispanic cultural tradition, but also a European one." Europeans brought capers, olives and chicken to Mesoamerica during the conquest. "They introduced pork fat. The Spaniards brought cinnamon, pepper, sesame… everything that goes into the recado today… and the African slaves brought banana leaves. It's a traditional Guatemalan dish with Mayan roots."
Hugo Espinoza
Archaeogastronomist Regina Moraga and Silvia Arias share a finished tamale (Credit: Hugo Espinoza)
And still very sacred to today's Guatemalans, who eat tamales year-round, most often at celebrations like weddings, baptisms, birthdays, Christmas and even funerals. When they're served, the binding fibers are snipped open with a knife; the slick leaves part to reveal the treasure inside.
"It's a dish that expresses a bite full of culture," said Moliviatis. "It was ceremony to go to my grandmother's house on Saturday to make tamales from six in the morning to five in the afternoon." Moliviatis's memories of making tamales are precious yet familiar to so many Guatemalans. Fadul recalled her family gatherings to assemble tamales: "It was a big line… every aunt and cousin… Like, I will put the masa, you will put the peppers, you will put the olives, you will put the chicken, you will wrap it… everybody had a job." Moraga added, "No two cooks' tamales are ever the same."
Hugo Espinoza
The finished tamal colorado includes a rich tomato gravy with chillis (Credit: Hugo Espinoza)
Tamal Colorado recipe By Mirciny Moliviatis
Serves 4
Ingredients For the recado (gravy): 680g (1½lb) ripe tomatoes 2 red bell peppers 1 Guatemalan chilli guaque (or dried red pepper) 1 Guatemalan chilli pasa (or other smoky dried pepper) 57g (2oz) sesame seeds 57g (2oz) pumpkin seeds 1 small cinnamon stick 2 cloves 28g (1oz) allspice 28g (1oz) pork lard achiote paste to taste (or powder) salt to taste For the dough: ½ cup rice flour 454g (1lb) instant corn flour like Maseca 680g (1½lb) lard (or 1 stick of butter + ½ cup of vegetable oil as a substitute) 4 tbsp salt For the leaves and toppings: 3 red bell peppers 10 plantain leaves 5 maxán leaves or sheets of pergamin paper (baking or parchment paper) 1 bunch of cibaque fibers, soaked and softened for tying the tamales (or use cooking twine) 900g (2lb) pork or chicken in pieces 113g (4oz) pitted olives 113g (4oz) capers lemon wedges, for serving
Method
Step 1 To make the recado, add a small quantity of water to a large saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add the tomatoes, bell peppers and dried peppers. Steam until soft, about 10 minutes.
Step 2 In a medium frying pan, separately toast the sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds and the cinnamon stick until fragrant. Blend the toasted seeds and cinnamon stick together with the mixture of tomatoes and peppers in a food processor.
Step 3 Strain the sauce into a saucepot. Boil for 20 minutes, stirring in the lard. Season with achiote and salt to taste. The recado should be slightly thick and a little salty because tamales tend to lose salt when cooking. Reserve.
Step 4 To make the masa, mix the corn and rice flours with water, adding ½ cup of water at a time until the dough has reached the consistency needed to make a dense ball of masa. Put the dough into a large bowl and dilute it with the additional water, adding only a little at a time, whisking it to prevent lumps from forming until you get a smooth dough with a liquidy consistency.
Step 5 Pour the dough into a large pot with four cups of water and cook it over low heat for approximately 10 minutes, constantly stirring with a wooden spoon to avoid the batter from settling or sticking to the container. As it boils, add the lard and salt. Keep cooking it until the dough is well done and not very hard. It should be about the consistency of porridge. Add more water if needed. You'll know it's ready when the dough starts to peel off from the edges of the pot with ease. Set aside and let it cool down.
Step 6 To assemble the tamales, roast the bell peppers over a flame until blackened, then place them in a plastic bag for five minutes so they will be easy to devein and peel. Cut the bell peppers into strips; remove the seeds. Cut the plantain leaves into 25cm (10in) squares; wipe them clean with a damp cloth and cook them in boiling water for 10 minutes. Cut the maxán leaves at their thickest part and wash them thoroughly.
Step 7 Place a banana leaf diagonally on a maxán leaf. Drop a bit of dough in the center; add generous helpings of recado, then add meat, olives, capers and strips of bell pepper. Add another dollop of dough on top, then fold the leaves and close to form a packet. Tie it tightly with the strips of soaked and softened cibaque (or twine).
Step 8 To cook the tamales, pour 4 cups of water into the bottom of a large pot, then top the pot with a steamer basket. Layer the basket with the remaining banana leaves. Place the tamales in the steamer basket, on the leaves, making sure the tamales don't touch the water. Cover the steamer basket with more leaves and a lid. Bring the water to a boil and simmer for approximately 1½ hours. Serve with lemon wedges.
Note This is a speedier version of a traditional tamal colorado recipe that foregoes the lengthy nixtamalization process. This recipe utilizes a blend of (pre-nixtamalized) corn flour and rice to achieve its signature fluffy texture. Maxán and banana leaves are critical to this dish; the banana (plantain) leaf gives the tamal colorado a singular look, while the maxán leaf imbues it with its unique flavour. In the event that maxán leaves cannot be sourced, however, baking or parchment paper can be used.
(Recipe adapted from Viviendo La Receta Guatemala by Mirciny Moliviatis – 2015.)
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Three Native American dishes to celebrate autumn
By Nina Friend Features correspondent
GMVozd/Getty Images
(Credit: GMVozd/Getty Images)
For a new approach to Thanksgiving, look deeper into the past. Recipes for berry slump, cider brined turkey and kanuchi showcase richly different slices of Native American culture.
Across cultures, fall is a time for celebrating the bounty of hearty food, gathering with family and feasting together. While November is often tied to Thanksgiving in the larger US culture, the fraught narrative that has long fuelled the holiday is a reminder to look deeper. For many of the Indigenous peoples who have generations of roots on this land, Thanksgiving represents something much different than a table full of turkey and pie.
Take chef Loretta Barrett Oden, who recently published her first cookbook, Corn Dance: Inspired First American Cuisine. Oden, whose lineage is with the Citizen Potawatomi Nation in Oklahoma, grew up celebrating Thanksgiving and still feasts with family on that day. But when she owned a restaurant in Santa Fe, New Mexico, she highlighted indigenous ingredients by putting turkey and stuffing on the menu, thereby treating every day like it was Thanksgiving. Here, Oden shares her recipe for kanuchi, a rich, creamy soup made of ground nuts and maple syrup.
Sara Calvosa Olson, who comes from the California-based Karuk tribe of Native Americans, doesn't celebrate the Americanised version of Thanksgiving, opting instead to focus her festive meals on the Karuk New Year. Without fail, Olson always makes her apple cider brined turkey with apple brandy acorn gravy. She shares the recipe here, along with background on the importance of acorn flour to this dish and her culture.
The Rhode Island chef Sherry Pocknett, who became the first Indigenous woman to win a James Beard Foundation Award in 2023, doesn't save her gratitude-giving for one day. Instead, she celebrates each harvest, giving thanks for cranberries in the fall and strawberries in the summer. Pocknett's food has received national acclaim, and people go wild for her wild blueberry slump. In her recipe, frozen blueberries (and the addition of cranberries) are a great swap when making this outside of blueberry season, yielding a dessert that's sweet, juicy, and the perfect way to finish any meal.
Between berry slump, apple cider brined turkey and kanuchi nut soup, these three recipes showcase vastly different slices of Native American culture. They also bring festive flavours and communal vibes to any fall harvest table. Read on to learn more about the ingredients, histories and people behind each of these recipes.
Heyday
(Credit: Heyday)
In her new cookbook, Chími Nu'am, Sara Calvosa Olson celebrates Indigenous American ingredients and seasonal flavours, like roasted turkey with apple brandy acorn gravy.
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Metta Nielsen
(Credit: Metta Nielsen)
Loretta Barrett Oden celebrates the diversity of Native American recipes – including a warm, nutty soup called kanuchi – in her new cookbook, Corn Dance.
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BBC World's Table
Berry slump is chef Sherry Pocknett's most sought-after dessert (Credit: BBC World's Table)
Award-winning Indigenous chef Sherry Pocknett shares her most sought-after dessert – one that reminds her to pause and give thanks all year round.
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Food
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Anarsa: India's deep-fried taste of Diwali
By Teja Lele Features correspondent
Teja Lele
Anarsa: India's deep-fried taste of Diwali (Credit: Teja Lele)
Made with fermented rice dough that is rolled in poppy seeds and deep-fried, some say this sweet is the taste of the Festival of Lights and there's a reason it's always served.
My 81-year-old father waits for Diwali for more than the festivities, family time and fun. He waits to bite into a crisp, crunchy, delectably sweet anarsa, a festive treat that's made during India's "Festival of Lights". The retired army man, who's travelled the length and breadth of the country and seen Diwali celebrations in numerous states, believes that the rice-based sweet treat is the taste of the festival.
Professional and home chefs alike agree that a good anarsa is a work of fine art. The round, flaky disc, made from a dough of powdered rice and grated jaggery, is rolled in poppy seeds and deep-fried in ghee until it's a delicious golden brown colour and crunchy, inside and out. The crumbly rice biscuit is just the right amount of sweet, neither cloying, nor lacking, and melts in your mouth.
In homes across the Indian state of Maharashtra, anarsa is prepared as naivedya, an offeringmade during Lakshmi Puja, one of the most important rituals conducted during Diwali to welcome Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity. The sweet also plays a starring role in the traditional Maharashtrian faraal, an assortment of savoury and sweet snacks typically prepared during the festival and shared with visiting family and friends.
Saee Koranne-Khandekar, food writer and culinary consultant – and author of the cookbook Pangat, a Feast: Food and Lore from Marathi Kitchens – says the anarsa, which she remembers from her childhood, is an unusual Indian sweet. "Most Indian sweets are either dairy-based like the pedha, barfi, and kheer, or are made from some kind of wheat flour, such as shakarpara, balushahi or jalebi. Very rarely do you see a rice-based sweet," she says.
The recipe calls for only four ingredients: rice, jaggery, ghee and poppy seeds.
Teja Lele
The recipe calls for only four ingredients- rice, jaggery, ghee and poppy seeds (Credit: Teja Lele)
"It's of some significance that two ingredients that are staples in any Indian pantry form the mainstay of this sweet. The classic combination makes for a delicious sweet," says Koranne-Khandekar, who is presently researching a new book and organising popups in Maharashtra.
Many Indian states have their own version of anarsa: adhirasam in Tamil Nadu, hilsa in Bihar, kajjaya in Karnataka, ariselu in Andhra, aarse in Garhwal, sirsa in Chhattisgarh and arisa pitha in Orissa.
However, the Maharashtrian version differs on account of it being extremely crisp and "without a chewy centre," as Koranne-Khandekar says; the others either have a filling, are softer or don't use poppy seeds.
The method seems simple: rice is soaked, ground and mixed with jaggery to produce a dough that is covered and left to ferment for four or five days. It is then fashioned into thin disks, rolled in white poppy seeds and deep-fried.
"The recipe is deceptively simple, but making the anarsa is anything but easy. A lot of factors come into play: the aged rice that must be soaked and shade-dried (new rice makes the dough sticky), the age and consistency of the jaggery, the use of poppy seeds (too many and the diskette will burn; too few and you won't get the texture right) and the fermentation," Koranne-Khandekar says.
A good Maharashtrian anarsa is also set apart by its lacey texture.
"The lacelike texture comes with fermentation. We aid it by placing an unpeeled banana with the dough when setting it aside. This gives an anarsa the faint aroma of a banana despite not using the fruit. This is critical to the flavour profile," Koranne-Khandekar says.
The heat also has a role to play: the rice diskettes must be fried on low heat; turning the setting to high means it won't have that lacey texture/taste.
The name "anarsa" is believed to have been derived from the Sanskrit word "anarasha", which stands for purity and the absence of decay. Perhaps, the name was derived from the fact that the sweet enjoys a long shelf life, which makes it a convenient treat to prepare in advance for festivals.
The shelf life was particularly useful a few decades earlier when all women in a family came together to make anarsa during Diwali. The tradition fostered bonding and helped transfer culinary skills from one generation to the next.
Teja Lele
Author Saee Koranne-Khandekar is presently researching a new book and organising popups in Maharashtra (Credit: Teja Lele)
Dr Anupama Uzgare, who edited and compiled Maharashtracha Khadya Sanskriti Kosh, an encyclopaedia of the food preparations and diet in Maharashtra, agrees that making anarsa is a fine art. "It requires technique and precision. The preparation of faraal helped the younger generation learn from seasoned home chefs and discover that the three Ps: preparation, patience and practice, which helped make perfect, crisp anarsa."
Anarsa is one of the hundreds of sweets that are endemic in India, which has a rich, multifaceted history of sweets and desserts. India's sweets, made with local ingredients for festivals and celebrations, have evolved over the ages, on the back of diverse cultures and changing palates.
But unlike most sweets, anarsa isn't readily available at sweet stores and local shops. "However, in Maharashtra and Maharashtrian pockets across India, women's cooperatives and home chefs make and sell them – during Diwali or on order at any time of the year," Uzgare says.
Since making the dough isn't easy, many convenience stores in Maharashtra also sell the ready-to-fry dough during Diwali and through winter.
There's a reason anarsa is usually always on the menu for the festival. Because an anarsa is more than just a sweet; it's a mouthful of Diwali. My father would happily agree.
Teja Lele
Anarsa is one of the hundreds of sweets that are endemic in India (Credit: Teja Lele)
Anarsa Recipe By Saee Koranne Koranne-Khandekar
Makes 12
Ingredients 2 cups aged rice (rice that is stored for at least a year) 2 cups jaggery, grated 4 tbsp ghee, for the dough, plus more for deep frying 1 small ripe banana, unpeeled ¼ cup white poppy seeds
Method
Step 1 Wash and soak the rice in water for three days, changing the water every day. On the third day, drain the rice and wash properly. Spread the rice on a towel and allow it to dry for an hour. When almost dry, transfer to a blender jar and grind without adding any water. Sieve the ground rice to remove any lumps or unprocessed grains.
Step 2 Place the ground rice, jaggery and 4 tbsp of ghee in a mixing bowl and mix well. The mixture will appear dry and crumbly at this stage. Mix firmly for 10-12 minutes, using a pestle or rolling pin, if required, to beat the dough and bring it together.
Step 3 Once the dough is homogenous (it won't be very soft yet), divide it into 3 to 4 large balls. Place them in an airtight box for two days. After two days, add the unpeeled banana to the box and keep shut for another three to four days. The banana will help the dough to ferment slightly, which will make the anarsa light and porous.
Step 4 Remove the banana from the box and check the consistency of the dough. It should have softened and should have a sheen when kneaded. It is now ready to be used.
Step 5 Pinch off balls the size of a small lime and roll them until they have a smooth surface. Press each ball in the poppy seeds and pat with your fingers into a disc about 2 to 2½ inches in diameter. You can also roll it out lightly with a rolling pin.
Step 6 Deep fry the discs in ghee over a low-medium flame until crisp, porous and a deep golden brown. Drain on absorbent towels, cool completely, and store in an airtight box for a few weeks.
(Adapted by BBC World's Table with permission from Pangat, a Feast: Food and Lore from Marathi Kitchens by Saee Koranne-Koranne-Khandekar, published by Hachette India.)
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Jimmy Red corn grits with egg yolks
By Tracey Teo Features correspondent
Peter Frank Edwards/ Redux/eyevine
Jimmy Red, the coveted heirloom corn variety, was in danger of extinction (Credit: Peter Frank Edwards/ Redux/eyevine)
Almost lost to time, US chef Sean Brock has helped revive an heirloom grain called Jimmy Red corn, serving the creamy grits with luscious cured egg yolks on top.
At Audrey, chef Sean Brock's Appalachia-inspired restaurant in Nashville, Tennessee, diners enjoy Jimmy Red grits, a porridge made from dried, stone-ground corn, topped with a sorghum-cured egg yolk and bay laurel (also known as sweet bay). This is a dish that would have been impossible to make 15 years ago.
That's because Jimmy Red, the coveted heirloom corn variety from which the grits are made, was in danger of going the way of the woolly mammoth until Brock stepped in to help save it. The deep red "dent" corn, named for the dent on each corn kernel, likely made its way from the Appalachian Mountains to South Carolina's James Island around 1900, where it was prized by bootleggers who distilled it into moonshine (illegal whiskey). In the early 2000s, the sole remaining bootlegger growing the corn died, and the corn almost died, too.
Thanks in part to Brock, the varietal has made a comeback and is now grown by farmers and used by chefs and distilleries throughout the American South.
In 2007, before Brock was the James Beard award-winning celebrity chef he is today, he attended a presentation about seed saving at Blackberry Farm, a luxury resort at the foothills of Tennessee's Great Smoky Mountains that's lauded by gastronomes for its upscale Southern fare and deep wine cellar. John Coykendall, master gardener at Blackberry Farm and a renowned horticulturalist, was one of the keynote speakers, as was Glenn Roberts, founder of Anson Mills, a South Carolina company that grows and distributes products from heirloom grains. The pair talked about their quest to save flavours of the Old South that had faded with the rise of industrialisation after World War Two.
Brock was intrigued and wanted to join forces. Like a Southern evangelist preacher called to save souls, Brock felt called to save seeds. A tattoo sleeve featuring Jimmy Red corn and other Southern heirloom vegetables permanently mark him as a Southern food revivalist.
"This was one of those monumental moments in my career where I started to realise and truly believe that Southern food was as special and delicious as any cuisine in the world," Brock said. "I felt a sense of purpose and responsibility toward foods I hadn't fully encountered as a chef before."
When Roberts heard about Brock's newfound passion, he sent him to South Carolina to see fellow seed saver Ted Chewning. The farmer was guarding something more precious than gold to seed preservers: a few remaining ears of dried Jimmy Red corn.
Emily Dorio
Thanks in part to Sean Brock, Jimmy Red corn has made a comeback (Credit: Emily Dorio)
After sizing him up, Chewning entrusted Brock with the seedstock. "I'll never forget how nervous I was that day," Brock said. "I felt like I was asking for his daughter's hand in marriage."
He planted the kernels the next day, obsessing for months over the progress of the cornstalks.
"Jimmy Red harvest time was a celebration," Brock said. "I couldn't get the meal [ground corn] into a cornbread batter and the skillet fast enough."
The enticing aroma and nutty-sweet flavour took him back to his grandmother Audrey's table in rural Virginia where he was raised. She, too, was a seed saver, and Brock enjoyed meals that included heirloom corn varietals and other vegetables not available at local grocery stores.
Traditionally, grits were considered a humble Southern staple, a creamy porridge made with water or milk that was unworthy of a white tablecloth restaurant. Convinced the cultivar could transcend its lowly moonshine roots and star in Appalachian cuisine, Brock put it on the menu when Audrey opened in 2021.
Brock made his share of shrimp and grits when he reigned in the kitchens of some of Charleston's top restaurants, but a great culinary mind like Brock's would never be content to make the same tourist favourite for the rest of his career. At Audrey, he serves Jimmy Red topped with sorghum-cured egg yolk. Not only are the grits, the foundation of the dish, more flavourful because they are sourced from Jimmy Red corn, but the preparation is unique. When diners break into the silky egg yolk and mix it in with the red-flecked grits with a hint of earthy truffle and pine nuances, they are savouring a meal that was years in the making.
Brock also makes an exceptional version of cornbread, another staple of Southern cuisine. His crusty Jimmy Red cornbread is served with sour corn butter (butter with fermented corn folded in) and cracklins (fried pork skin) – a definite step up from common corn bread.
"The movement to try our best to contribute to the cuisine of our ancestors is an exciting, fulfilling and delicious journey," Brock said.
Daniel Meigs
At Audrey, Jimmy Red grits and cured egg yolks are served with cream and bay laurel oil (Credit: Daniel Meigs)
Jimmy Red Corn Grits with Sorghum-Cured Egg recipe By Sean Brock
Serves 8
This recipe has been modified for the home cook.
Ingredients For the egg yolks: 1,000ml (4¼ cups) water 1,000g (4 cups) sorghum syrup (see Note) 200g (¾ cup) kosher salt 8 whole egg yolks For the grits: 2 cups ground corn grits, preferably heirloom or Jimmy Red (soaked overnight, skimmed and water discarded) 8 cups water 1 fresh bay leaf salt ground white pepper lemon juice hot sauce, preferably Red Clay 3 tbsp unsalted butter 2 tbsp cream cheese
Method
Step 1 In a wide shallow container, combine the water, sorghum syrup and salt; stir to combine. Add the egg yolks to the brine and cure in the refrigerator for 8 to 12 hours, flipping and basting every few hours until the outside of the eggs firms up and the insides are thickened.
Step 2 Place the soaked grits and water in a large saucepan. Slowly bring to a simmer. Skim all the chaff that rises to the top with a fine mesh tea strainer. Simmer over low heat for 45 minutes, stirring the grits as much as possible while they cook; be careful not to let them stick to the bottom of the pan (if they do stick, you should change the pot). Add the bay leaf and continue to simmer for another 45 minutes, stirring as often as possible; add more water if the grits seem too thick.
Step 3 When the grits are finished, season them with salt, white pepper, lemon juice and hot sauce. Fold in the butter and cream cheese. Spoon into bowls and serve each bowl topped with a cured yolk.
Note Sorghum syrup is available at gourmet and whole food groceries, as well as online.
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Bataring Daudo: A centuries-old recipe for apricot soup
By Aysha Imtiaz Features correspondent
Marcia Chambers/Alamy
Bataring Daudo: A centuries-old recipe for apricot soup (Credit: Marcia Chambers/Alamy)
This deceptively simple soup has been nourishing Pakistan's Hunza community for centuries and is perhaps the purest celebration of the fruit and the Hunza ideology.
During harsh Himalayan winters, at the roadside kiosk of chef and restaurateur Lal Shahzadi, a heavenly scent of woody apricots tinged with molasses hangs heavy in the air. She is making a centuries-old recipe passed down generations: Bataring Daudo, or apricot soup.
Shahzadi (whose full name means "Red Princess" in Urdu) is part of the hardy Burusho community in Hunza, Pakistan – known as much for its hospitality as its antiquity. She runs a food kiosk named Hunza Food Pavilion in the district's capital, Karimabad, and is viscerally connected to her land, championing organic ingredients and indigenous practices.
"The Hunza diet is instinctively reliant on fruit – fresh in the summer and dried in the winter. Simple, fuss-free food [means a] simple, fuss-free life," she said.
Shahzadi's recipe for bataring daudo is just that: simplicity personified. "Bataring means apricot, and daudo means soup in my Burushaski language," she explained.
Hunza's naturally dried apricots are shrivelled and hard, looking nothing like the perfectly round and plump apricots seen in the West, and they taste like toffee when cooked. To make the robust soup, the apricots are first washed and boiled. Next, wheat flour is mixed with water to create noodle-like crumbles. Added into the simmering apricot water, these little nuggets of dough help to thicken the mixture, resulting in a sort of dumpling soup with musky notes.
Less of a recipe and more of a strategy to get through lean seasons with scant resources, bataring daudo speaks of self-sufficiency, resilience and a survivor's spirit. The soup pays homage to a mindset of subsistence and an approach to nutrition informed by ancient ways of living as one with the land.
"This soup has been used for centuries because it wards off colds and is nutrient dense," said Shahzadi. It also helps sluggish bowel movements, she added, and is believed to relieve joint aches and cure fevers.
"The wheat makes [the soup] fortifying and satiating. It provides a surge of energy and warmth for strenuous work," Shahzadi said. "The apricots remind you there are better times of abundance to come."
Jinho Choi/Alamy
The Hunza diet is instinctively reliant on fruit (Credit: Jinho Choi/Alamy)
Straddling Central and South Asia, Shahzadi's picturesque valley looks like an oasis untouched by modernity – and for the longest time, it was. Writers such as Horst Geerken and Annette Bräker in their book, The Karakoram Highway and the Hunza Valley, marveled that until the 1950s, children in Hunza had not seen a bicycle or motor vehicle. For over 900 years, it was an independent principality – a princely state ruled by a Mir (a local prince or general) until 1974.
Its location and rough terrain made the area inaccessible, with very little outside influence or interference. For instance, Shahzadi's Burusho language, Burushaski, is a language isolate and bears no resemblance to any other human speech.
In fact, the very existence of the robust Hunza population in this sequestered highland stumps historians. The popular theory is they are descendants of Alexander the Great, but historical evidence of this has been disputed.
"How the small race that speaks the language of Hunza has come to occupy these valleys will perhaps never be explained by historical evidence… the Hunza are mysterious… an erratic block of an ancient world, still with its peculiar knowledge and traditions, and preserved from the decay of time in that profound cleft of theirs," wrote British agronomist Guy T Wrench in his book, The Wheel of Health.
The mystique shrouding the idyllic region has made it the stuff of legend. Hunza has been referred to as the "lost kingdom of the Himalayas", a near utopia, and some speculate that it's eerily similar to beautiful and secluded worlds such as James Hilton's mythical Shangri-La.
But even paradise wasn't problem-free.
"My ancestors had a very secluded and difficult existence," Shahzadi said. "From gathering firewood and preparing stony terraced lands [to be fit for subsistence agricultural use] and staving off starvation during times of poverty, being isolated meant self-sufficiency was the only solution."
The same remoteness that gave the region its virgin, breath-taking beauty is also what necessitated that the Burusho find inventive ways to repurpose plentiful summer harvests for the frigid winters.
Shahzadi's ancestors achieved this through preserving fruit, such as apricot, in times of abundance. And today, local residents use apricots as the answer to all life's woes, she explained. "We use each part of the apricot for different purposes," she said. From beauty products (like shampoo) and medicine to winter soup, the humble apricot is used as both a remedy and a meal – and is a mainstay in their culture.
But bataring daudo, with its unadulterated recipe, is perhaps the purest celebration of the fruit, and the Hunza ideology.
olga Yastremska/Alamy
Puree apricots with water until they resemble a pulpy sauce (Credit: olga Yastremska/Alamy)
Bataring Daudo recipe
Serves 2-3
Ingredients 200g organic dried apricots 250ml water 50g flour additional water for a runnier consistency (up to 2 cups)
Method
Step 1 Wash the apricots well and boil them in the 250ml of water for 5 to 10 minutes, or until soft. Remove from water and set aside; reserve the water.
Step 2 Make flour nuggets by spreading the flour on a plate. Drizzle around ⅛ cup or 30ml water over the flour and mix with your fingers until the dough nuggets (dumplings) are formed.
Step 3 Place the apricots in a blender, adding the reserved water, and puree until they resemble a pulpy sauce.
Step 4 Pour the mixture into a pot and bring it to a rolling boil. Add the dumplings and simmer on low heat for 10 minutes, moving a spoon gently back and forth to stir (do not stir in circular motion). The idea is to thicken the soup while retaining the dumplings, not to dissolve them. Add additional water to reach the desired consistency. Serve hot.
Tips With minor tweaks, bataring daudo can be elevated into another soup: Haneetze Daudo. Haneetze refers to the kernel inside the seed of the apricot, so the only addition to this recipe is 200g of powdered apricot kernels (substitute with almonds if unavailable) to the flour mixture before making the dumplings. This provides a nuttier and even more nutritious, if slightly granular, texture.
Also, many Hunza restaurants today roll out a thin roti or chapatti and cut it into thin strips (like fettucine noodles) to add to the soup.
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Eight of the best smorrebrod restaurants in Copenhagen
By Laura Hall Features correspondent
ClarkandCompany/Getty Images
(Credit: ClarkandCompany/Getty Images)
From designer-style open-faced sandwiches at Selma to Aamanns 1921's elegant take on the classics, these eight restaurants showcase the city’s most exciting smørrebrød offerings.
The open-faced sandwich, or smørrebrød, is as Danish as a block of LEGO. It is a mini design marvel in its own way too: a delicately balanced dance of textures, flavours and colours piled in a tower built on a buttered rye bread base. Classic varieties include pickled herring topped with onions and capers; prawn, boiled egg and aioli; chicken salad with mushrooms and bacon; and warm liver paté with beetroot.
The dish dates to the 19th Century when agricultural workers would pack rye bread and leftovers from the previous night’s dinner to eat for lunch. In Copenhagen, today’s top restaurants have evolved this hearty worker’s food, keeping the heavy rye bread but adding international ingredients like yuzu and kefir to create a fresh take on an old tradition. These modern iterations takes certainly look as good as they taste, focusing heavily on visuals with perhaps an extravagant cloud of micro herbs, a vermillion-bright accent of beetroot and a perfectly sliced, perfectly positioned pickle.
Considered one of Denmark’s national dishes, alongside the hot dog and flæskesteg (roast pork), smørrebrød comes in hundreds of varieties, most with the standard heavy rye bread base. These eight spots bring together the city’s most cutting edge and traditional smørrebrød offerings in one list.
Noemi Metaireau-Copenhagen Media Center
At Aamanns 1921, you can expect an elegant take on the classics, with plenty of herring (Credit: Noemi Metaireau-Copenhagen Media Center)
1. Best for elegant, seasonal dishes: Aamanns 1921
With marble tables, a mirrored dining room and soaring ceilings, Aamanns 1921 is where Jay Gatsby would eat if he was keen on rye bread. Run by restaurateur and TV chef Adam Aamann and located down a quiet cobbled street in the heart of Copenhagen, the upmarket eatery is known for its local and seasonal focus, along with its homemade snaps (a shot of strong aquavit-style alcohol).
The SpeciaList Laura Hall has lived in Copenhagen since 2017 and is the author of Time Out Copenhagen. She writes about food and culture across Scandinavia, ranging from bakeries to Michelin-starred restaurants.
Snaps is the traditional accompaniment to a smørrebrød plate, after all, and the tastefully lit bar is lined with bottles with handwritten labels, giving it the air of a 19th-Century apothecary shop.
Aamann runs three other restaurants serving smørrebrød in the city, including one at the Royal Playhouse, and a further two takeaway delis. At 1921, you can expect an elegant take on the classics, with plenty of herring and a changing menu that reflects what is in season in Denmark and the Nordics – perhaps a thick slab of herring with crème fraiche, blackcurrent and rose atop your bread, hand-peeled shrimp with sliced egg, tomatoes and a sprinkle of chives, or fried and breaded plaice with herbs, lemon and a remoulade sauce. Smørrebrød is, as it has always been, the staple food at lunchtime; in the evening, the menu includes other classic dishes.
Aamann has a commitment to producing local and sustainable food, serving up to 90% organic ingredients, using Danish producers as far as possible, avoiding bottled water and setting the tables with 100% biodegradable tablecloths and napkins.
Laura Hall
Schønnemann is known for its range of snaps with 140 bottles on display (Credit: Laura Hall)
2. Best for a liquid lunch: Schønnemann
Award-winning Schønnemann is a cosy and welcoming cellar restaurant that has been serving smørrebrød to Copenhageners for more than a century. According to a framed cross-stitch picture on the wall, there was once sand on the floor and herring on the table, referring to the days when it was a regular haunt for farmers and their dirty boots.
The restaurant is owned and run by husband-and-wife team Juliette and Thomas Gaarn Rasmussen, and is known for its classic smørrebrød dishes including rolled pork slices; multiple types of marinaded herring; perfectly pink Greenland prawns in a tottering pyramid atop a slice of bread; and plenty of duck, pork and chicken all on top of dark and nutty ryebread.
You might be mistaken for thinking this place is all about drinking, not eating, given the enormous display of snaps bottles on the counter, numbering 140 in total. A note nearby reads: "Lunch without snaps is called breakfast", and diners can choose from Danish and imported liquor shots in measures described as "embarrassing", "reasonable" and "large" for 2cl, 4cl and 6cl, respectively.
The restaurant is only open for lunch from 11:30 to early evening, with two seatings. It’s extremely popular: weekend bookings are taken three months in advance and even on Monday and Tuesday, it’s best to book a month ahead.
Website: www.restaurantschonnemann.dk/ Address: Hauser Plads 16, Copenhagen K Phone number: +45 33 12 07 85 Instagram: @restaurantschonnemann
Daniel Rasmussen-Copenhagen Media Center
Selma is the only smørrebrød restaurant in Copenhagen to be awarded a Bib Gourmand (Credit: Daniel Rasmussen-Copenhagen Media Center)
3. Best for contemporary versions: Selma
Smørrebrød doesn’t have to be classic, it can be contemporary too. Selma, run by Swedish chef Magnus Pettersson, does not play by the traditional rules. Named after the chef’s daughter, the restaurant has risen to the challenge of modernising the dish – and reaped the rewards in 2019 when it was awarded with a Bib Gourmand in the Nordic Guide Michelin. To date, it’s the only smørrebrød restaurant in Copenhagen to enjoy this accolade and is known as one of the best lunch spots in the city.
Etiquette To eat smørrebrød like a Dane, always use a knife and fork and eat your sandwiches from left to right. Aim to get a forkful of all of the elements in one go – all the toppings and the rye bread from top to bottom.
It’s a place where you’ll want to take photos of your food – flavour is key, but so are good looks. Expect beautiful dishes topped with micro herbs, dusted with cress and decorated with vibrant wildflowers and a backdrop of handpainted wallpaper and stylish lighting.
A friendly, hip kind of eatery, the designer-style open-faced sandwiches are washed down with craft beers by Copenhagen’s own brewery Mikkeller and spirits from Copenhagen Distillery. Menus are devised with their own beer pairings and you can, if you’re brave, tackle a five- or seven-course tasting menu introducing you to the delights of smørrebrød, where smaller-than-average servings allow you to try the full range of tastes available, including fish, meat, vegetarian and even sweet, dessert-style sandwiches. As a typical smørrebrød meal would only involve two or three varieties, it’s a great way to explore what’s possible.
Website: https://selmacopenhagen.dk/ Address: Rømersgade 20, Copenhagen K Phone number: +45 40 27 72 03 Instagram: @selma_copenhagen
Daniel Rasmussen-Copenhagen Media Center
Restaurant Barr takes a classy approach to Denmark’s hearty traditional cuisine (Credit: Daniel Rasmussen-Copenhagen Media Center)
4. Best for delicious North Sea flavours: Restaurant Barr
Located in noma’s original building on the quay at Christianshavn, and opened in partnership with acclaimed Danish chef René Redzepi, Thorsten Schmidt’s Restaurant Barr celebrates the food of his childhood. Dubbed "North Sea Cuisine", flavours cover the ground from Germany to Denmark, not forgetting the sea that links them. That explains why the menu includes smørrebrød but also herring and meatballs.
Schmidt’s background is in molecular gastronomy, so don’t expect homely food; it’s satisfying and classic, but elevated at the same time. With harbour views and a refined atmosphere, the setting provides a great backdrop to his classy take on Denmark’s hearty traditional cuisine.
The name "Barr" has a resonance across the the North Sea region: meaning "crop" in Old Irish, it’s also the name for "barley" in Old Norse, a staple food for all these countries going back centuries. Barr is a classic Copenhagen restaurant: relaxed, welcoming and low-key, and yet chic at the same time. As well as the dining room, there is a 30-seat beer bar and a wide range of beers to choose from, plus outdoor seating along the waterfront.
Lunch includes a smørrebrød dish of herring with red berries, pork fat and thyme over a ryebread base, along with shrimp with dill, lemon and a soft boiled egg served on white bread, and eel tartare and salted smoked beef with horseradish on heavily seeded rye. The World’s 50 Best Restaurants compared dining here to "a gastronomic bear hug" and we can see why.
Website: https://restaurantbarr.com/en/home/ Address: Strandgade 93, Christianshavn Phone number: +45 32 96 32 93 Instagram: @barrcph
Laura Hall
Palægade is a beloved lunch spot and the best place in town for a Danish herring experience (Credit: Laura Hall)
5. Best for a Danish herring experience: Palægade
There’s a little drama on the menu at Palægade, a restaurant routinely listed by Danish newspaper Politiken as one of the best places to eat smørrebrød in the city. In a great central location close to Nyhavn (the tourist heart of the city), the restaurant was originally in a different building that burned down in 2020. Rebuilt and reopened, the new Palægade serves a classic, modern and gourmet open-faced sandwich menu for lunch that is worth waiting for.
Part of the Formel B family of restaurants – which includes Formel B, a Michelin-starred spot since 2014 – the restaurant is owned by four friends who met as student chefs. It’s the best place in town if you want to dive into a Danish herring experience. Their menu is heavy on herring, with six different options for smørrebrød, ranging from classic to experimental. The deep-fried herring with creamy leek, Brussel sprouts and yuzu sauce is one you won't find anywhere else.
TIP: Palægade has an excellent wine selection, especially French wine. In addition, don't miss the custom-designed cake trolley.
Website: https://formelfamily.dk/palaegade/en/ Address: Palægade 8, Copenhagen K Phone number: +45 70 82 82 88 Instagram: @rest_palaegade/
Nicolai Mørk-Copenhagen Media Center
The food at Meyers I Tårnet is as exquisite as the setting (Credit: Nicolai Mørk-Copenhagen Media Center)
6. Best for dining like a king: Meyers i Tårnet
Run by Claus Meyers, co-founder of Meyer and a chef-food entrepreneur with seemingly a finger in every pie in Copenhagen, Meyers i Tårnet gives you the chance to dine like a king, eating smørrebrød while surrounded by marble busts once beloved of Denmark’s kings in Christiansborg Palace.
Part of the Danish Parliament building and formerly a royal palace, Meyers I Tårnet opened 2014 with a view of the Queen’s stables and royal parade ground. A brief security check on the way up in the elevator is all part of the appeal. Then it’s on to the Danish smørrebrød classics: shavings of cucumber piled atop smoked salmon with herbs, spirals of white onion and rye bread. Breaded and pan-fried fish fillet served with the classic condiment remoulade, all served on rye.
Easter specials include platters of smørrebrød, Danish apple cake and filled chocolate eggs; at other times of year, notably Christmas, they also offer special menus. Part of the non profit organisation Foodprint Nordic, Meyers i Tårnet donates 1% of profits to help climate change projects.
Website: https://meyers.dk/restauranter/meyers-i-taarnet-en/ Address: Christiansborg Slotsplads, Copenhagen K Phone number: +45 28 10 14 02 Instagram: @meyersitaarnet
Mellanie Gando-Copenhagen Media Center
Lumskebugten is a light-filled and elegant restaurant that serves plenty of classic smørrebrød (Credit: Mellanie Gando-Copenhagen Media Center)
7. Best for a maritime atmosphere with gourmet cuisine: Lumskebugten
In the mid-1800s, this little spot near the old custom’s house was a hive of activity, particularly for badly behaved sailors. Here, at the end of the historic harbour, treacherous sandbanks created by strong tides lay in wait for unsuspecting sailors, and equally treacherous, a pub called Lumskebugten lay in wait for their wages as soon as they set foot on Copenhagen’s soil.
Keeping the name, but now a light-filled and elegant restaurant where drunken sailors would get short shrift, Lumskebugten is run by Danish gastronomical icon Erwin Lauderbach, a chef, restaurateur and cookbook author who has been at the helm since 2011. On the menu, you’ll find daily specials and plenty of classics, such as cured veal tongue, sweetbread and mushroom smørrebrød, and fried flatfish fillet with shrimps, piled on a rye-bread base. It’s also a place you can try the curiously named "vet’s night snack" smørrebrød, a confection of liver pate, salt beef, aspic and red onion named for a former royal vet.
If the location looks familiar, it could be because it was featured in the Oscar-winning film Another Round as the location for Mads Mikkelsen’s fantastic dance sequence, which culminated in a show-stopping swallow dive into the harbour.
Website: http://www.lumskebugten.dk/ Address: Esplanaden 21, Copenhagen K Phone number: +45 33 15 60 29 Instagram: @restaurantlumskebugten
Laura Hall
At Told & Snaps, classic smørrebrød dishes are served on Royal Copenhagen porcelain (Credit: Laura Hall)
8. Best for heritage and tradition: Told & Snaps
If you like your dining with a little more regal charm, Told & Snaps has the starched white tablecloths for you. This basement restaurant on a side street between Nyhavn and the palace at Amalienborg has walls lined with royal portraits in gilded frames and runs with a rumour that the Queen gets her smørrebrød here. (She only lives a short walk away, after all.) Historical details abound – there are even ashtrays in the toilets – and plenty of older patrons are known by name by the staff. Forget New Nordic, this is more of a classic affair.
In fact, heritage and traditional are the keywords for this storied spot. Classic smørrebrød dishes are served on Royal Copenhagen porcelain, including pickled herring with shrimps and homemade mayonnaise, beef tartare with freshly shredded horseradish and – perhaps the most Danish of all – warm liver paté with cucumber salad, pickled beetroot and bacon. Vegetarians are out of luck.
Traditional dishes are accompanied by a choice of organic beer and more than 20 varieties of snaps, all homemade at the restaurant according to the season. Expect anything from walnut snaps to a spicy star anise and cinnamon brew, or a shot made with violet heritage carrots.
Website: www.toldogsnaps.dk/ Address: Toldbodgade 2, Copenhagen K Phone number: +45 33 93 83 85 Instagram: @toldogsnaps
BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.
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Food
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xvBataring Daudo: A centuries-old recipe for apricot soup
By Aysha Imtiaz Features correspondent
Marcia Chambers/Alamy
Bataring Daudo: A centuries-old recipe for apricot soup (Credit: Marcia Chambers/Alamy)
This deceptively simple soup has been nourishing Pakistan's Hunza community for centuries and is perhaps the purest celebration of the fruit and the Hunza ideology.
During harsh Himalayan winters, at the roadside kiosk of chef and restaurateur Lal Shahzadi, a heavenly scent of woody apricots tinged with molasses hangs heavy in the air. She is making a centuries-old recipe passed down generations: Bataring Daudo, or apricot soup.
Shahzadi (whose full name means "Red Princess" in Urdu) is part of the hardy Burusho community in Hunza, Pakistan – known as much for its hospitality as its antiquity. She runs a food kiosk named Hunza Food Pavilion in the district's capital, Karimabad, and is viscerally connected to her land, championing organic ingredients and indigenous practices.
"The Hunza diet is instinctively reliant on fruit – fresh in the summer and dried in the winter. Simple, fuss-free food [means a] simple, fuss-free life," she said.
Shahzadi's recipe for bataring daudo is just that: simplicity personified. "Bataring means apricot, and daudo means soup in my Burushaski language," she explained.
Hunza's naturally dried apricots are shrivelled and hard, looking nothing like the perfectly round and plump apricots seen in the West, and they taste like toffee when cooked. To make the robust soup, the apricots are first washed and boiled. Next, wheat flour is mixed with water to create noodle-like crumbles. Added into the simmering apricot water, these little nuggets of dough help to thicken the mixture, resulting in a sort of dumpling soup with musky notes.
Less of a recipe and more of a strategy to get through lean seasons with scant resources, bataring daudo speaks of self-sufficiency, resilience and a survivor's spirit. The soup pays homage to a mindset of subsistence and an approach to nutrition informed by ancient ways of living as one with the land.
"This soup has been used for centuries because it wards off colds and is nutrient dense," said Shahzadi. It also helps sluggish bowel movements, she added, and is believed to relieve joint aches and cure fevers.
"The wheat makes [the soup] fortifying and satiating. It provides a surge of energy and warmth for strenuous work," Shahzadi said. "The apricots remind you there are better times of abundance to come."
Jinho Choi/Alamy
The Hunza diet is instinctively reliant on fruit (Credit: Jinho Choi/Alamy)
Straddling Central and South Asia, Shahzadi's picturesque valley looks like an oasis untouched by modernity – and for the longest time, it was. Writers such as Horst Geerken and Annette Bräker in their book, The Karakoram Highway and the Hunza Valley, marveled that until the 1950s, children in Hunza had not seen a bicycle or motor vehicle. For over 900 years, it was an independent principality – a princely state ruled by a Mir (a local prince or general) until 1974.
Its location and rough terrain made the area inaccessible, with very little outside influence or interference. For instance, Shahzadi's Burusho language, Burushaski, is a language isolate and bears no resemblance to any other human speech.
In fact, the very existence of the robust Hunza population in this sequestered highland stumps historians. The popular theory is they are descendants of Alexander the Great, but historical evidence of this has been disputed.
"How the small race that speaks the language of Hunza has come to occupy these valleys will perhaps never be explained by historical evidence… the Hunza are mysterious… an erratic block of an ancient world, still with its peculiar knowledge and traditions, and preserved from the decay of time in that profound cleft of theirs," wrote British agronomist Guy T Wrench in his book, The Wheel of Health.
The mystique shrouding the idyllic region has made it the stuff of legend. Hunza has been referred to as the "lost kingdom of the Himalayas", a near utopia, and some speculate that it's eerily similar to beautiful and secluded worlds such as James Hilton's mythical Shangri-La.
But even paradise wasn't problem-free.
"My ancestors had a very secluded and difficult existence," Shahzadi said. "From gathering firewood and preparing stony terraced lands [to be fit for subsistence agricultural use] and staving off starvation during times of poverty, being isolated meant self-sufficiency was the only solution."
The same remoteness that gave the region its virgin, breath-taking beauty is also what necessitated that the Burusho find inventive ways to repurpose plentiful summer harvests for the frigid winters.
Shahzadi's ancestors achieved this through preserving fruit, such as apricot, in times of abundance. And today, local residents use apricots as the answer to all life's woes, she explained. "We use each part of the apricot for different purposes," she said. From beauty products (like shampoo) and medicine to winter soup, the humble apricot is used as both a remedy and a meal – and is a mainstay in their culture.
But bataring daudo, with its unadulterated recipe, is perhaps the purest celebration of the fruit, and the Hunza ideology.
olga Yastremska/Alamy
Puree apricots with water until they resemble a pulpy sauce (Credit: olga Yastremska/Alamy)
Bataring Daudo recipe
Serves 2-3
Ingredients 200g organic dried apricots 250ml water 50g flour additional water for a runnier consistency (up to 2 cups)
Method
Step 1 Wash the apricots well and boil them in the 250ml of water for 5 to 10 minutes, or until soft. Remove from water and set aside; reserve the water.
Step 2 Make flour nuggets by spreading the flour on a plate. Drizzle around ⅛ cup or 30ml water over the flour and mix with your fingers until the dough nuggets (dumplings) are formed.
Step 3 Place the apricots in a blender, adding the reserved water, and puree until they resemble a pulpy sauce.
Step 4 Pour the mixture into a pot and bring it to a rolling boil. Add the dumplings and simmer on low heat for 10 minutes, moving a spoon gently back and forth to stir (do not stir in circular motion). The idea is to thicken the soup while retaining the dumplings, not to dissolve them. Add additional water to reach the desired consistency. Serve hot.
Tips With minor tweaks, bataring daudo can be elevated into another soup: Haneetze Daudo. Haneetze refers to the kernel inside the seed of the apricot, so the only addition to this recipe is 200g of powdered apricot kernels (substitute with almonds if unavailable) to the flour mixture before making the dumplings. This provides a nuttier and even more nutritious, if slightly granular, texture.
Also, many Hunza restaurants today roll out a thin roti or chapatti and cut it into thin strips (like fettucine noodles) to add to the soup.
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Food
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Mii kathi: Thailand's sweet and sour breakfast noodles
By Austin Bush Features correspondent
Austin Bush
Mii kathi are wok-fried noodles with tamarind, coconut milk, soy sauce and chillies (Credit: Austin Bush)
In Southern Thailand, Ma Ya's everyday breakfast staple combines wok-fried rice noodles with a simple chilli paste, coconut milk and soy sauce.
If you didn't grow up on Ko Yao Noi, an island in Thailand's Phang-Nga Province, finding breakfast can require a bit of luck.
On this and similarly small islands in southern Thailand, the first meal of the day is often sold from rural homes that double as simple restaurants – the kind of places non-locals would pass by without noticing.
Ma Ya's place is the perfect example of this. Located in a nondescript house on the side of the road that encircles Ko Yao Noi, I'm alerted to it not by a sign but rather by the group of motorcycles parked out front. Under a veranda in what is essentially the front yard, a handful of men wearing Muslim garb sit at a table, chatting, drinking tiny glasses of sweet tea, and smoking hand-rolled cigarettes. In typical southern Thai style, the surface of the table is covered with trays loaded with traditional sweets wrapped in banana leaves, cakes and knots of deep-fried dough.
The cook and proprietor is Ma Ya. Her real name is Supranee Pradit, but nobody calls her this; everyone in Thailand has a nickname. Ma Ya stands behind the counter, which is loaded with vast stainless-steel bowls filled with khao mok kai, turmeric-tinged chicken biryani; khao yam, rice tossed with shrimp paste, toasted coconut and herbs; and khanom jiin, a type of curry meant to be served over noodles.
I have stopped here in search of mii kathi. A staple at Muslim-run southern Thai breakfast shacks, the dish takes the form of thin, round rice noodles wok-fried in ingredients that include tamarind, coconut milk, soy sauce and dried chillies. Mii kathi shares elements with laksa, a noodle soup of Indo-Malay origin, but is closer to mee siam, a fried noodle dish of possible Thai origin that's popular across the border in predominantly Muslim Malaysia – particularly in the country's north.
Austin Bush
Finding breakfast on Thailand's Ko Yao Noi island requires a bit of luck (Credit: Austin Bush)
I spot mii kathi in one of those stainless-steel bowls and order it. Ma Ya presents a plate piled with noodles in an orange-red hue, garnished with Chinese chives and dashes of dried chilli powder and sugar. The dish has a near-perfect balance of tart and sweet flavours, followed by a pleasant richness, a slight saltiness and a distant spiciness. The garnish of Chinese chives adds a subtle crunch and bitterness. For a breakfast dish, there's a lot going on.
"My mom used to sell food here when I was a student," said Ma Ya when I ask about the origins of the dish, which is made with a blend of Chinese and Southeast Asian seasonings and ingredients. "I learned the recipes from her." Ma Ya explained that mii kathi can be eaten on its own, or used to garnish khaao yam, southern Thailand's famous rice salad. The dish also functions as an anytime snack or light meal eaten throughout the day.
At her shack, Ma Ya makes the coconut milk for the dish by hand, shredding coconuts from her garden and squeezing the meat through a sieve to extract the rich milk. "On Ko Yao Noi, there's a lot of things we don't have to buy," she said. "We have them at home."
Austin Bush
Ma Ya makes mii kathi and other dishes at her island shack (Credit: Austin Bush)
Mii Kathi recipe By Supranee Pradit (Ma Ya)
Unless you have a particularly large wok or frying pan, it's best to fry the noodles in two steps.
Serves 4
Ingredients 300g thin, round dried rice noodles 12 large, dried chillies 6 shallots (60g), peeled and sliced 30g garlic, peeled and sliced 2 tsp vegetable oil 1½ cups coconut milk ½ cup seed-free tamarind pulp ½ cup water 2 tbsp sugar, plus more for serving 2 tbsp sweet or dark soy sauce 1 tbsp salt 2 stalks (20g) Chinese chives, trimmed of their pale stalks and wispy ends and chopped 1 tbsp dried Thai chilli powder (optional)
Method
Step 1 Soak the rice noodles in room temperature water for 15 minutes. Strain and discard the water. Set aside.
Step 2 Meanwhile, put the chillies in a saucepan and add enough water to cover them. Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove the saucepan from the heat and soak the chillies for 15 minutes. Drain, discarding the water, and when cool enough to handle, remove and discard the seeds and stringy membranes from the chillies. Slice the chillies.
Step 3 Using a mortar and pestle (or a food processor), pound and grind (or process) the chillies, shallots and garlic to a coarse paste.
Step 4 In a large wok or frying pan over medium-low heat, add the vegetable oil and the chilli paste. Fry, stirring frequently, until fragrant, around 2 minutes. Add the coconut milk, tamarind pulp, water, sugar, soy sauce and salt. Increase the heat to medium and simmer until bubbling and amalgamated, around 2 or 3 minutes. Remove half of the sauce and set aside.
Step 5 Add half the noodles to the wok, increase the heat to medium-high and fry, stirring constantly, until the noodles have absorbed all the liquid and are dry in consistency (around 5 minutes). Taste, adjusting seasonings if necessary; the noodles should taste equal parts sweet and tart, with balanced background flavours of salty, rich and spicy. Remove, set aside, and repeat with the remaining noodles and sauce.
Step 6 Transfer the noodles to four plates, garnish each with the Chinese chives and a pinch each of chilli powder and sugar, if desired. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Note Sweet or dark soy sauce lends the dish a pleasantly bitter, molasses-like flavour that you won't find in your more common light soy sauce.
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An expert's guide to the best pizza in NYC
By Arthur Bovino Features correspondent
Radharc Images/Alamy
An expert's guide to the best pizza in NYC (Credit: Radharc Images/Alamy)
From John's of Bleecker Street to Una Pizza Napoletana, here are insider Arthur Bovino's picks for the eight best pies and slices in New York City.
Whether it's a quick lunch, an after-school snack, a destination dining experience or a late-night soak-up, pizza powers New York City. No city has slice or pie culture quite like it, and no visit is complete without it. A bragging right and backbone of identity born of late 19th- and early 20th-Century Italian immigration, pizza and New York's ties run deep. But all pizza is not created equal. And $1 slices do not epiphanies make.
The city's "best pizza" is as important an opinion as it gets around here. Arguably the five boroughs' most famous slice, Joe's, is the baseline. Criteria for judging? A near-equal sauce-to-cheese ratio and a flavourful crust (no "gum line" – undercooked dough between the crust and toppings) with an undercarriage that never fully cracks when folded. Greatpizza can be an adventure and tell a story, but ultimately, the best pizza is one you're thinking about having again before the one you're eating that moment disappears.
After 14 years of tasting, writing about and ranking the city's slices and pies, here are my picks for New York City's best pizza spots.
Robert K Chin - Storefronts/Alamy
Una Pizza Napoletana was recently crowned the best pizza in the US (Credit: Robert K Chin - Storefronts/Alamy)
1. Best of the best: Una Pizza Napoletana
New York has many celebrated Neapolitan pizzerias, but Anthony Mangieri's East Village Una was a standard-bearer from 2004 to 2009, and his return from San Francisco in 2018 excited pizza obsessives. In between, NYC's pizza scene moved onto artisanal slices, sourdough and regional styles, and it took some time after Una Pizza Napoletana opened for Mangieri's Lower East Side venture to find its footing – but it certainly has.
The SpeciaList Arthur Bovino is a Queens-born New Yorker who reports about the city's pizza @nycbestpizza and thepizzacowboy.com.
This is Mangieri's show: naturally leavened, wood-fired dough mixed morning-of, carefully cooked, often by Mangieri. There are five classics (marinara, margherita, bianca, filetti, cosacca; a weekly special; and toppings like pepperoni, a Parmesan variety dubbed "the king of cheeses", Calabrian long hot peppers and Italian anchovies. Simplicity and craft led this place to be named the best pizzeria in the US in 2023.
So, plan your visit. There's no takeout, and it's only open Thursday to Saturday (17:00 until the dough runs out). Reservations (one pizza per person) open at 09:00 daily two weeks ahead, so a walk-in bar seat may be your best move.
Pro tip: On Saturdays from 09:00 to 13:00, the pizzeria's front bar area turns into Caffè Napoletana with Southern Italian-style espresso, fresh citrus juice, Italian snack cakes and sourdough pizza bread sandwiches.
Website: www.unapizza.com Address: 175 Orchard St, New York Phone: 1-646-476-4457 Instagram: @unapizzanapoletana
Spencer Grant/Alamy
John's, as it's now known, was once called Pizzeria Port'Alba and dates back to the 1930s (Credit: Spencer Grant/Alamy)
2. Best old-school vibe: John's of Bleecker Street
This pies-only, coal-fired West Village institution has more pedigree than most American pizzerias. Lombardi's, located a mile away, has long claimed to be "America's first pizzeria", but Neapolitan pizzamaker Filippo Milone (the driving force behind Lombardi's) was also instrumental in the origins of John's, which was originally called Pizzeria Port'Alba (thus, its current sign).
While John's relocated to its current location in 1934, it's still one of the oldest pizzerias in the nation. And with its gruff servers, no-reservations policy and no-slices mantra, it exudes old-school charm.
Pizzas come medium (14in) or large (16in), thin and crunchy. There are 16 toppings and eight specialty pizzas (full pies only). "The Boom Pie" – with roasted tomatoes, ricotta, garlic and basil – is a staff favourite, but start with one of three "John's Classics" – tomato sauce, aged mozzarella and flourishes like Pecorino Romano, oregano, a black pepper crust and fresh basil.
Website: www.johnsofbleecker.com Address: 278 Bleecker St, New York Phone: 1-212-243-1680 Instagram:@johnsofbleeckerstreet
Arthur Bovino
Mama's TOO! dishes up both square and traditional triangular slices (Credit: Arthur Bovino)
3. Best traditional slice: Mama's TOO!
More than a century passed without any NYC pizzerias meriting many stars from New York Times restaurant critics. Frank Tuttolomondo's Upper West Side shoebox-sized pizza-by-the-slice joint bucked the trend in 2018 with a glowing review a year after branching out from his family's nearby pizza operation.
Square slices are this place's most prolific offering, and 11 versions combine the classic New York Sicilian pie style (less airy dough with a tighter crumb) with the lightness and variety of Roman al taglio slices. Garlic confit with whipped ricotta; poached pear with gorgonzola and hot honey; and cacio e pepe (mascarpone, aged mozzarella, Pecorino Romano, Parmigiano-Reggiano and black pepper) are musts. So, too, is one of New York's best vodka sauce slices (pizza with a creamier, spicier alternative to tomato sauce).
But the House Slice is a revelation! An artisanal approach to a round pie, it has a Neapolitan canotto-like (dinghy-shaped) crust and a thin, rigid undercarriage. Low-moisture mozzarella is layered first with splotches of sauce, preventing a gummy crust and creating an around-the-tongue umami finish that leaves you in lip-smacking reverie. It's difficult to visit without eating about four slices. A new location in the West Village is in the works, so bring friends, share slices and visit on Wednesdays when Tuttolomondo serves a sandwich special on homemade bread.
Website: www.mamastoo.com Address: 2750 Broadway, New York Phone: 1-212-510-7256 Instagram: @mamas_too
Arthur Bovino
Fresh burrata can make a good pizza great (Credit: Arthur Bovino)
4. Best "elevated" pie: L'Industrie Pizzeria
In 2017, a Tuscan named Massimo Laveglia opened a 23sq-m shop in Williamsburg called L'Industrie that reimagined what a New York slice could be. L'Industrie uses a levain sourdough starter and a poolish leavener for its round pies (65-67% hydration), which is much more work than typically goes into a NYC slice, but the results show.
There's a thin, pliable base that stands up to judiciously applied toppings like cremini mushrooms, bacon and caramelised onions, and a crisp, light crusty edge that's taller and airier than average. The crust is spotted with tiny blisters that flake away as you bite and minimalist saucing (Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes). Everything's finished with basil, a pleasantly funky Parmigiano Reggiano and EVOO [extra virgin olive oil] in balance. There's a house square slice that changes daily, three white slices and six reds (plus a whole tomato pie), but the burrata is the signature. Despite popular belief, burrata won't turn lousy pizza good, but fresh burrata on an already-great pizza is the stuff of dreams.
L'Industrie expanded next door in 2021 but there are still near-constant crowds. Expect to wait and check Instagram for a daily sandwich that goes head to head with Mama's TOO!
Website: www.lindustriebk.com/ Address: 254 S 2nd St, Brooklyn Phone: 1-718-599-0002 Instagram: @lindustriebk
Arthur Bovino
Margherita Pizza in Queens is an old-school spot with cheesy, oil-drippingly indulgent slices (Credit: Arthur Bovino)
5. Best under-the-radar pizzeria: Margherita Pizza
Some slice aficionados maintain that old-school Queens spots (Amore, Gloria, Pizza Garden, VIPizza and Brother's, for example) are saucier and cheesier than others. These places won't win any awards, but what they lack in nuance they deliver in flavour. Of these vintage spots, Margherita Pizza is the best of the bunch: fresh, saucy, cheesy and oil-drippingly indulgent.
Sure, there are newer, more celebrated artisanal pizzerias as well as older, more famous ones, but what kind of "best-of" list would this be without including a place you may never have heard of, but may soon become your go-to favourite? Margherita Pizza's green awning and blinking globe lights are just a 10-block walk from Jamaica Station. This narrow, brightly lit, under-appreciated slice joint opened by Sicilian-born Stefano DiBenedetto and childhood friend Frank Gioeliand in 1966 features a long counter bereft of stools, and slices that come hot and quick with "cheese pulls" (stretch chains of melted cheese that appear when slices are pulled from pies) every time.
Facebook: www.facebook.com/MargheritaPizzaNY Address: 16304 Jamaica Ave, Queens Phone: 1-718-657-5780
Soma/Alamy
Patsy's 1st Avenue-facing window is a great place to people-watch (Credit: Soma/Alamy)
6. Best coal-fired pizza: Patsy's (Harlem location)
Something about trekking to Patsy's shoebox of a takeout shop in East Harlem and eating a lightly sauced, cheese-scattered equilateral-triangle slice makes for the perfect New York City pizza moment. Patsy's opened in 1933, supposedly after founder Pasquale "Patsy" Lancieri left Lombardi's, one of the city's first pizzerias, and this sit-down location with a window facing 1st Avenue is the original. The place still coal-fires its pies and sells pizza by the slice, something otherwise unheard of (most coal spots only sell full pies), and it's delicious.
The super-thin slice is shorter than you'll typically find, lightly sauced with a scattering of creamy mozzarella and a crust with a dry char. And while you could eat it while sitting down, devouring a slice while standing on the pavement is almost an edible explanation of what happened to pizza after it migrated from Naples to New York in the early 1900s. All that for just $2.50.
Website: www.patsyspizzeria.us Address: 2291 1st Ave, New York Phone number: 1-212-534-9783 Instagram: @patsyspizza/
Arthur Bovino
L&B Spumoni Gardens began with an Italian immigrant peddling pizza via a horse and wagon (Credit: Arthur Bovino)
7. Best square slice: L&B Spumoni Gardens
Founded in 1939 by Ludovico Barbati, an immigrant from the hillside town of Torella Dei Lombardi (an hour east of Naples), L&B began with Barbati learning how to make pizza in a garage, then peddling it via horse and wagon (thus, the logo) before settling into its current spot in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn.
The pilgrimage to southern Brooklyn is worth it for the square slice and the spumoni ice cream. Its huge signature Sicilian pies get a thin mozzarella coating, a juicy sauce layer and a Parmesan dusting. Some pizza purists complain that L&B's dough has too large of a gum line, but there's undeniable appeal to the brioche-like moisture in the undercarriage and the sweet-salt-acid punch you taste as you bite into it.
The square pizzas are so large you may have to decide: centre (crustless) or edge? Try both. And if you leave (even in winter) without some of that rich cremolata (sweetened ice milk), you've missed the point.
Website: www.spumonigardens.com/ Address: 2725 86th St, Brooklyn Phone: 1-718-449-1230 Instagram: @lbspumonigardens
Arthur Bovino
Louie & Ernie's uses fennel-laden sausage based on an 80-year-old recipe (Credit: Arthur Bovino)
8. Best sausage pizza: Louie & Ernie's Pizza
There are other notable Bronx pizzerias, but Louie & Ernie's, located in the residential Schuylerville neighbourhood, has well-deserved reputation for boasting New York City's best sausage pie – and to be honest, it's not even much of a contest.
Louie & Ernie's opened in East Harlem in 1947 and relocated to its current location in 1959. Cosimo and Johnny Tiso bought it from Ernie Ottuso in 1987, and they've been doing the pizza justice ever since.
The shop is a narrow sliver of a spot – the kind of place with a sports game on TV and regulars greeted by name. Pizza-makers sling pies up front, crumbling fennel-laden sausage made four blocks away at S&D's deli using an 80-plus-year-old recipe. Unlike many sausage-topped slices where the meat is sliced in dry, unwieldy medallions, the juices from the torn-off, crumbled raw sausage cook out on the pizza, mixing with the sauce and cheese to create something truly spectacular.
Louie & Ernie's is a 15-minute walk from the nearest subway (the 6), so it's trek to get here, but well worth it.
Website: www.louieanderniespizza.com/ Address: 1300 Crosby Ave, Bronx, New York Phone: 1-718-829-6230 Instagram: @Louieandernies
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Food
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Crystal Wahpepah's Native American corn thumbprint cookies
By Valentina Valentini Features correspondent
Valentina Valentini
Crystal Wahpepah's Native American corn thumbprint cookies (Credit: Valentina Valentini)
Crystal Wahpepah's Californian restaurant has been lauded for using Native ingredients. In honour of Indigenous Peoples' Day, here's a recipe for her corn thumbprint cookies.
Corn is the lifeblood of many Native American communities. It has been at the heart of many Indigenous cultures throughout the Americas for over 3,000 years. It's not just sustenance; it's a sacred plant that holds deep meaning. Among indigenous North American tribes, the Corn Mother is a maternal figure who is believed to be responsible for the origin of corn, and the first to give her people instructions on how to grow it. It is the American Indians who taught Europeans to grow, harvest and use corn in their diets, thus introducing the grain to a new continent when they brought it back home.
"When it comes to corn," said Crystal Wahpepah, the owner and head chef of Wahpepah's Kitchen in Oakland, California, "it's such an honour to still have it after all these [centuries], how strong it still is [in our community]."
Wahpepah grew up amidst a diverse and urban tribal community in Oakland on Ohlone land, a collective of about 50 tribes that have inhabited the Bay Area for 10,000 years. Members of the Kickapoo Tribe, Wahpepah's grandparents moved from Oklahoma to the area during the time of the Indian Relocation Act of 1956, though because her grandfather was in the US Navy, their move only happened to coincide with Act instead of being a result of it.
Wahpepah's Kitchen opened in 2021 as one of only a handful of Indigenous restaurants in the country, but Wahpepah began her professional food career as a caterer within her community 13 years ago after graduating from San Francisco's La Cocina Kitchen Incubator program. Since then, she's catered far beyond those Bay area borders, introducing her peoples' food to a wider audience. She became the first Indigenous chef to appear on Food Network's Chopped in 2009, and in 2022 she was a finalist for the James Beard Emerging Chef Award.
"I always saw many different foods from a very young age," said Wahpepah. "We're next to Berkeley and to San Francisco, where there are diverse foods, but I would never see our food that we cook at home – the corn soup, berry pudding, native dishes like that. I would never see it in the restaurants. You wouldn't see it outside your household or your community."
Wahpepah's Kitchen has been lauded for its use of Indigenous ingredients, such as berries and acorns, heirloom blue corn, salmon, bison and deer, as well as for its close working partnerships with local producers. Its seasonal menu includes Kickapoo chili, bison meatballs, salmon tostadas and smoked squash tacos. Much of the menu reflects variations on Wahpepah's experiences cooking as a child with the women in her family.
"I love corn; I grew up on corn. My grandmother always made different corn dishes. She did everything she could with corn," said Wahpepah. "Corn cookies are something that are so familiar in our Native community."
Corn thumbprint cookies are one of Wahpepah's favourite foods to make. "It's one of those old-time recipes when it comes to corn, originally made with just cornmeal and water. I make a new version of it, but it's still something simple for people to do at home."
The cookies are good for all occasions and seasons, but she's partial to a summertime version because that is when corn is harvested. Summer is also the season for her favourite Indigenous ingredient, berries, and she likes to create a filling for the thumbprints with them. In the autumn or winter, a squash puree makes a nice cookie filling, and Wahpepah encourages creativity – apple butter, dried pears – whatever is in season and local is the only remit.
She says you can use different textures of cornmeal, from super fine to coarse. You can also leave out the wheat flour for a gluten-free cookie option. Wahpepah wants the ingredients to be easy to source, so finding whatever your local market stocks can work for this recipe.
"I'm representing my culture, representing my foods, then I'm also representing something that's really never been out there before," Wahpepah said of her restaurant and her recipes. "At the end of the day, I just want people to see how beautiful these foods are and where they're from."
Valentina Valentini
The cookies are good for all occasions and seasons, but she's partial to a summertime version because that is when corn is harvested (Credit: Valentina Valentini)
Corn Thumbprint Cookies recipe By Crystal Wahpepah
Makes 24 cookies
Ingredients 360ml (1½ cups) ground cornmeal 240ml (1 cup) all-purpose flour 2 tsp corn flour (cornstarch) 1 tsp salt 240g (1 cup) unsalted butter at room temperature 68g (½ cup) sugar 1 large egg 1 tsp vanilla 68g (½ cup) of any preserve, jam, fruit butter, or puree for filling
Method
Step 1 Preheat the oven to 175C/350F. In a medium bowl, combine the cornmeal, all-purpose flour, corn flour and salt. In another medium bowl, using a hand mixer at a low speed, beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the egg and vanilla until well-mixed. Beat in the dry ingredients until just combined. (You can mix by hand, as well.)
Step 2 Use a small kitchen spoon to scoop and place 24 balls of dough on a baking sheet. Place your thumb in the middle of each ball and press down, making a little bowl shape in the middle of the cookies. Add preferred filling, if desired.
Step 3 Bake for 8 minutes, or until the cookies are brown on the edges; rotate the baking sheet halfway through baking. Let the cookies set and cool before serving.
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Food
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Bebinca: a multi-layered cake from India
By Sugato Mukherjee Features correspondent
Nolan Lobo
An excess of egg yolks led to the creation of the multi-layered bebinca (Credit: Nolan Lobo)
Created by a resourceful nun in 17th-Century Goa, this sticky, seven-layer cake is made primarily from eggs, coconut, sugar, ghee and flour.
"An excess of egg yolks led to the creation of bebinca," said Gracian de Souza, a chef and restaurant consultant from India's western state of Goa. "And in today's parlance, we can call it a perfect example of zero-waste cooking."
Bebinca is a multi-layered cake that has been dubbed the "queen of Goan desserts" and is considered such an inherent part of Goa's culinary identity that the state administration is pushing for a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for the caramelised confection.
De Souza recounted a popular story about bebinca. It goes that in 17th-Century Goa, when the coastal state was under Portuguese rule, nuns in convents used egg whites to bleach their habits. That left them with plenty of egg yolks. In an innovative – and sustainable – twist, Sister Bebiana, a nun at the Convento da Santa Monica in Old Goa, crafted a sticky cake using the leftover yolks and coconut milk, a readily available ingredient in the coastal belt.
Historian Fatima da Silva Gracias, who specialises in Indo-Portuguese history, endorses this theory in her book Cozinha de Goa: History and Tradition of Goan Food. She writes that Sister Bebiana might have experimented with the Portuguese tradition of making layered desserts, which are not traditionally found in India. Sister Bebiana's initial version was a seven-layered cake. When it was sent to the priests of Convent of St Augustine, the Order to which Santa Monica belonged, they found it too small and advised her to increase the layers to at least a dozen.
Made with a few simple ingredients – egg yolks, flour, coconut milk, sugar and ghee (clarified butter) with a dash of nutmeg powder to add an aromatic note – the dessert was named bebinca, after its creator Bebiana. While the priests suggested the cake have at least 12 layers, the minimum number of layers of a bebinca remains at seven, and it can have as many as 16.
De Souza is passionate about bibik, a doting name Goans have for their distinctive delicacy. "During my school days, it was a treat that I looked forward to whenever I visited our ancestral home in North Goa and it remains the star of the culinary spread during Christmas, Easter and family weddings," he said.
Nolan Lobo
Chef Gracian de Souza is passionate about bibik, a doting name Goans have for bebinca (Credit: Nolan Lobo)
As a consultant chef, De Souza has crafted bebinca for collaborative pop-ups. However, it has not made it onto the menus at the restaurants he has headed in Goa, Mumbai and London, though Goan influences have always been markedly present in his culinary repertoire.
I asked him why.
"It is totally possible to feature bebinca in a restaurant menu and I do have plans to include it in my next venture," De Souza said. "However, a properly baked bebinca is a gourmet affair and needs patience." Baking each layer of bebinca, he explained, takes around 20-25 minutes to lock in the complex flavours. This makes it a three-hour session to whip up seven luscious, ghee-smothered layers.
This is the reason why the vacuum-packed variants, now widely available in bakeries and on supermarket shelves across Goa, are at best mediocre and taste a little rubbery, lacking the finesse of a painstakingly baked bebinca, one layer at a time.
"The moment you go for mass production with bebinca, the melt-in-your-mouth exquisiteness is lost," De Souza said.
Traditionally, bebinca is made in tizals – locally made earthenware pots – in which heat comes from the top. Slow burning coconut husks are positioned atop the lids of the pots, a process that imparts the complex smoky flavours with which the dessert is associated. "The trick is possible even when you bake bebinca with an OTG [oven-toaster-griller]," De Souza explained. "Turn the heat source on top when you are pre-heating the oven."
For De Souza, bebinca represents the joie de vivre of India's sunshine state. "A weekend project of preparing this decadent dessert can be the ideal opportunity for a family gathering. Laughter, banter and gossip are the perfect accompaniments to the fun baking session, which almost always happens in the backyards of the ancestral Goan homes. It is a legacy that is deeply connected with the spirit of Goa."
Nolan Lobo
Bebinca has been dubbed the "queen of Goan desserts" (Credit: Nolan Lobo)
Bebinca recipe By Gracian de Souza
Makes one 25cm-diameter cake
Ingredients 900g (4¾ cups) granulated sugar 18 eggs 3 freshly grated coconuts or 1½ litres (just over 1½ qts) canned coconut milk 300g (2¼ cups + 2 tbsp) all-purpose flour 1 tsp nutmeg powder pinch of salt 120g (4.2oz) ghee (clarified butter)
Method
Step 1 In a small frying pan, simmer 75g (5 tbsp) of sugar over medium high heat, swirling the pot occasionally, until the caramel begins to turn amber, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat immediately. Add ¼ cup of water to the caramel to cool down the mixture.
Step 2 Using a food processor or blender, grind the remaining sugar to a powder.
Step 3 Into 2 large bowls, separate the egg yolks and the whites of 15 eggs. Add the 3 whole eggs to the egg yolks and reserve the egg whites for another use.
Step 4 Add the powdered sugar to the egg yolks and whisk thoroughly to make it creamy and fluffy.
Step 5 Wrap the freshly grated coconut in cheesecloth and squeeze to extract 1½ litres (about 6¼ cups) of the milk into a bowl (or use canned coconut milk). Mix the flour into the coconut milk.
Step 6 Remove 2 tbsp of the coconut milk mixture and place in a small bowl; mix with the nutmeg powder.
Step 7 Whisk the egg mixture with the coconut milk mixture and nutmeg mixture. Pass this through a strainer to ensure a lump-free bebinca mixture. Add a pinch of salt. Divide the bebinca mixture evenly into 2 separate bowls.
Step 8 Add the cooled caramel to one of the bebinca bowls and stir to get a nice brown colour.
Step 9 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F. Heat a 25cm (10in) cake tin over medium heat on a stove. Add 2 tbsp of ghee, making sure the ghee covers the bottom. Add enough of the first layer of batter (the lighter batter) to cover the base. Let it cook on the stove over 180C/350F for about 8 to 10 minutes until you see bubbles and the sides turn light brown. Transfer the baking tin to the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Remove the baking pan and spread ½ tsp ghee to the top of the first layer.
Step 10 Add the second layer of batter (the darker batter), enough to cover the first layer. The layers should be thin, so don't add too much batter. Reduce the oven temperature to 180C/350F. Put the baking tin in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, until the second layer is cooked. If you see air pockets, don't worry; press the batter with the back of a tablespoon to release the air. Spread ½ tsp of ghee over the layer.
Step 11 Pour the third layer (lighter batter) just enough to cover the second layer. Put the baking tin in the oven and repeat this process, alternating the light and dark layers, and baking for about 15 minutes per layer, until all the batter is used. There should be a total of 7 layers. Let the cake cool fully in the pan for 12 hours.
Step 12 To demould the cake, set the baking tin over medium heat until the ghee melts at the bottom. Run a knife or spatula against the wall of the baking tin to release the bebinca. Set a flat plate on top of the tin and turn it over to release the bebinca. Serve hot. (The bebinca can be kept at room temperature for a week. You can reheat it in a microwave for 15 seconds before eating.)
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Food
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The incomparable Bombay sandwich
By Charukesi Ramadurai Features correspondent
Sameer Chogale/Alamy
The Bombay sandwich has a soft centre and a crispy crust (Credit: Sameer Chogale/Alamy)
Mumbai locals queue up for their unique local treat: a crisp, buttery grilled vegetable-packed sandwich that's slathered with a piquant, fresh green chutney.
If there is one thing people in India never tire of debating, it is whether Mumbai or Delhi is the better city. More accurately, the argument centres around which metropolis has the better food. Delhi often comes up tops with its incredible range of street eats, but Mumbai trumps any competition when it comes to the sandwich.
The sandwich may have come to India through the British, but the people of Mumbai (as Bombay is now called) have added their own fillings and spices to make it their own.
<p><a href="#Bombay Sandwich recipe">[jump to recipe]</a></p>
The Bombay sandwich (it's never referred to by the newer name of Mumbai) has a fairly simple recipe, where boiled potatoes, along with raw vegetables like onions, cucumber, tomato and peppers, are placed between richly buttered slices of bread – always plain white, no fancy brown or multigrain – and liberally slathered with chutney. This piquant green chutney made with fresh herbs and spices kicks up the flavour profile a notch, while the cooking method – using a rustic handheld toaster (called a chimta) over an open flame – gives it a soft centre with a crunchy crust. In recent times, a generous sprinkling of grated cheese is also added to the mix.
The iconic dish reflects the city's ethos of welcoming outsiders and embracing them into its fold. Even before the British brought the sandwich to India, it was the Portuguese who introduced both potatoes and bread to the country. They used local toddy (fermented palm sap alcohol) to ferment and bake pav, the soft and fluffy bun that is the base for Mumbai's other famous street dish, the vada pav.
"The Bombay sandwich likely developed as food for the migrant workers who came to work in Mumbai from various parts of India," said cookbook author Sonal Ved referring to what historians have claimed. "Back then, in the 1960s, Mumbai had a booming textile mills industry. The labourers needed cheap meal options and that's when this sandwich originated."
Karam Puri
Sonal Ved is the author of India Local: Classic Street Food Recipes (Credit: Karam Puri)
The textile mills may have closed decades ago, but the sandwich has endured, providing a cheap and convenient meal to office workers on the go and college students alike. Even today, every street corner in Mumbai has a sandwich vendor, with long lines in front of the most popular ones. These sandwichwalas do brisk business, serving up their sandwiches with thick ketchup on paper plates.
While Ved's earlier books, Tiffin and Whose Samosa Is It Anyway? both focus on Indian food – exploring recipes and origin stories, respectively – her newest title, India Local: Classic Street Food Recipes (published in August 2023) shines a spotlight on the wide variety of street eats from across the country. In addition to the Bombay sandwich, recipes include classics like pani puri, daulat ki chaat and mutton momos (dumplings stuffed with minced mutton and mixed vegetables), as well as Ved's own creations such as barley and couscous tikki (patties) and guacamole galauti (avocado kababs).
"Most are family recipes – things I have learnt from my mother, my sisters, aunts, Indian wedding caterers and family cooks," said Ved. She has been collecting these recipes for a while, adding her own spin to traditional dishes. For instance, the chutney for her version of the Bombay sandwich includes blanched and pureed spinach and chickpea flour to make it more wholesome, while the chaat masala sprinkled on the vegetable stuffing provides a tangy hit. "The recipe is my own – this is how we have been making it at home for years now," she said.
And although street food stalls and even upmarket restaurants now offer versions of the Bombay sandwich – with beetroot, avocado, imported cheeses, meat slices and even chocolate or Nutella spread – cooked in electric toasters and fancy grills, the classic dish remains hugely popular. This is for good reason; nothing comes close to this perfect balance of flavours and textures.
Karam Puri
The sandwich is filled with potato, cheese, capsicum and other vegetables (Credit: Karam Puri)
Bombay Sandwich recipe By Sonal Ved
Makes 3 sandwiches
Ingredients For the chutney: 2 cups coriander leaves 3 tbsp blanched spinach puree (see Note) 5 ice cubes 6 green chillies 6 garlic cloves 2 tsp minced fresh ginger 2 tsp chaat masala ½ tbsp chickpea flour salt to taste For the sandwich: 3 tbsp unsalted butter, softened 6 slices of white bread ½ cup thinly sliced onions ½ cup thinly sliced boiled potato ½ cup thinly sliced tomato ½ cup thinly sliced cucumber ½ cup sliced capsicum (red pepper) (optional) ½ cup grated cheese 1 tbsp chaat masala salt and pepper to taste chilli sauce and tomato ketchup for serving
Method
Step 1 To make the chutney, grind the coriander leaves and spinach puree in a food processor with the ice cubes, green chillies, garlic, minced ginger, chaat masala and chickpea flour until a fine paste forms. Add salt to taste.
Step 2 To make the sandwiches, butter both sides of each slice of bread and liberally spread with the chutney.
Step 3 To assemble, layer three slices of bread with the onions, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers and capsicum. Generously sprinkle the cheese over the vegetables, then sprinkle with chaat masala, salt and pepper. Cover each with another slice of bread.
Step 4 Grill the sandwiches in a sandwich machine or panini maker. You can also toast the sandwiches on a grill pan, carefully turning them once to achieve an even char on the bread. Cut into pieces and serve hot with chilli sauce, tomato ketchup and more chutney.
Note To make spinach puree, add chopped spinach to a pot of boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and puree.
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Food
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Mandy Yin's Sarawak white chicken
By Anna Sulan Masing Features correspondent
Louise Hagger
Mandy Yin's Sarawak white chicken (Credit: Louise Hagger)
Deep in the jungles of Malaysia, some of the world's best peppercorns are used as the focal point for braised chicken with tomatoes, coconut, chillies and herbs.
Deep in the jungles of Borneo in Sarawak, Malaysia's largest state, are small pockets of peppercorn farms. The bright green pepper vines that nestle on steep hills slanting down towards rivers and streams are vibrant against the deep green of the jungle. Cultivated mostly by Indigenous communities such as the Iban, these small, family-run farms grow some of the best pepper in the world.
Mandy Yin, the owner of a renowned Malaysian restaurant in North London called Sambal Shiok, visited such a farm in 2019. It was here that she first tried manok pansoh, a traditional Iban dish. In the Iban language, pansoh means to "cook in green bamboo over open fire", and manok means "chicken". The dish is frequently cooked at celebratory times, especially at Gawai, the June harvest festival celebrated by Sarawak's Indigenous communities.
Manok pansoh is the inspiration for Yin's Sarawak White Chicken, featured in her 2021 cookbook Sambal Shiok: the Malaysian Cookbook. Yin explained that the original dish is "chicken cooked in bamboo with aromatics, picked by the Iban women from their jungle 'back garden' – simple yet effective flavours." Yin loved how they balance white Sarawak pepper with the chicken, making the spice the star of the show.
Yin's version of the recipe, which doesn't include open fire or green bamboo, uses lemongrass and laksa leaf (also known as Vietnamese mint) as its aromatic backbone – flavours that are quintessentially Malaysian to her. And she includes a lot of freshly toasted black and white peppercorns. "You really want the peppery hit to be as strong as possible," Yin said.
Pepper was introduced as a commodity crop in the 1840s by Hakka Chinese communities in the Bau district of southern Sarawak, near the capital of Kuching. Over time, the Chinese moved into more urban spaces and the Indigenous communities began growing pepper on their farms. Pepper is now grown throughout Sarawak amongst fruit trees, rice paddies and vegetables. It is a cash crop that puts children through school and covers essentials such as petrol for the longboats that are used for transport from longhouse villages to towns.
Liam Bunce/Alamy
Pepper is now grown throughout Sarawak amongst fruit trees, rice paddies and vegetables (Credit: Liam Bunce/Alamy)
Originally from West Malaysia, Yin had only been to Sarawak and to a pepper farm for the first time during this 2019 trip. "I had no idea what a pepper vine looked like and hadn't realised that black and white pepper came from the same plant, just treated in different ways," she said.
To make white pepper, ripe pepper berries are picked then left in fabric sacks in a very clear and clean stream for a few days, so that the outer pulp is washed off before the berries are dried in the sun. "White pepper adds a subtle smoky flavour to whatever you're cooking, and Sarawak white pepper has a unique, wonderfully potent floral fragrance," Yin said.
To make black pepper, berries are harvested just as they are ripening, then they are left to dry under the sun until they turn black. "The black pepper heat is actually quite ferocious – use sparingly!" suggested Yin.
As well as gaining a new understanding of the variety of flavour and aroma in pepper, Yin explained that hearing the farmers talk made her realise how difficult and expensive it is to farm pepper, particularly inland. Transport costs are high, and about 90% of Sarawak black and white pepper is exported. "It gave me a new appreciation for this product, one that seems to be so ubiquitous and abundant," Yin said.
For this recipe, it's ideal to use Sarawak pepper. Otherwise Yin suggests seeking out speciality black and white peppercorns from independent spice importers who source high-quality pepper that will have a richer, stronger flavour than supermarket peppercorns.
Yin recommends adding a dash of ground white pepper to stir-fries and meat marinades, and it generally makes it into every broth she cooks. "White pepper is magic because its heat won't overpower the dish. It just adds a finishing roundness to whatever you're cooking," she explained.
Louise Hagger
Mandy Yin's Sarawak white chicken (Credit: Louise Hagger)
Sarawak White Chicken recipe
Serves 4
Ingredients For prepping the chicken: 6 skinless, bone-in chicken thighs 1 tsp salt For the spice paste: 200g (7oz) onion, roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves 2½cm (1in) piece of ginger 2 lemongrass stalks, roughly chopped For cooking the chicken: 1 tsp black peppercorns, preferably Sarawak 1 tsp white peppercorns, preferably Sarawak 3 tbsp vegetable oil 450g (1lb) tomatoes, cut into eighths 300ml (10½oz) water 5 laksa leaf stalks with leaves still attached (see Note) 100ml (scant ½ cup) coconut milk For the garnish: ½ handful picked laksa leaves or mint leaves ½ handful freshly picked coriander leaves 1 red onion, quartered then finely sliced into semicircles 2 red chillies, finely sliced juice from ½ lime
Method
Step 1 In a bowl, marinate the chicken with salt. You can do this the night before and leave the meat in the fridge overnight. However, I usually just do it on the day of cooking and leave the chicken for an hour in its bowl on the kitchen counter to give it time to reach room temperature. It means that your cooking time will be reduced later.
Step 2 While you're waiting for the chicken to marinate, in a food processor or blender blitz the spice paste ingredients into a fine purée.
Step 3 Toast the black and white peppercorns in a small frying pan (no oil is needed) over low heat until fragrant. Grind into a fine powder using a pestle and mortar. (You can also use freshly ground pepper if you do not have whole peppercorns.)
Step 4 In a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat, warm up the oil and then add the blitzed spice paste and ground pepper powders. Fry until fragrant and the oil separates (which will take a maximum of 10 minutes).
Step 5 Add the chicken, tomatoes, water and stalks of laksa leaf or mint. Bring to boil and simmer, covered, over low heat for 25 minutes. Stir every 5 minutes to ensure even cooking. Add the coconut milk for the last 5 minutes of cooking. Taste and add more salt if desired. Remove the stalks of laksa leaf. To serve, garnish with herbs, red onion, chillies and a squeeze of lime juice.
Note You can use more laksa leaf if you prefer a more aromatic version. If you cannot find laksa leaves, use a small bunch of mint, stalks and all.
(Recipe reprinted from Sambal Shiok: The Malaysian Cookbook by Mindy Yin, Quadrille Publishing Ltd, 2021)
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How humble oats have fuelled a nation
By Kirsty Starmer Features correspondent
Karen Appleyard/Alamy
A spurtle (on the right) is the traditional tool used to stir porridge (Credit: Karen Appleyard/Alamy)
Oats are synonymous with Scotland – as famous as the Loch Ness monster or whisky – but this understated grain is as essential as ever to the sustainability of the land and its people.
Two thousand years ago, you would not have seen oat fields adorning the horizon of north-east Scotland. But when the Romans imported oats in the 1st Century CE to provide for their horses, they unwittingly seeded a national legacy. Oats thrived in Scotland due to the perfect growing conditions of long daylight hours, plentiful rainfall and acidic soil. And although its success is due more to luck than good judgment, that doesn't diminish the influence this hardy grain has had on the evolution of Scotland, its people and the world beyond.
"I remember as a kid looking in my parents' cupboard and seeing Scott's Porridge Oats – and that's in Maine," declared Josh Barton, American-born co-founder of Brose Oat Milk, one of just a few oat milk producers in Scotland. "Even people in the US know that the best oats in the world come from Scotland. There's a mythology about Scottish oats."
It's a mythology that is most strongly associated with porridge. Porridge (oats simmered in water or milk) was traditionally a breakfast staple, cooked in one giant pot for the family. Each spoonful would be dipped into a separate bowl of milk or cream for extra taste. Leftovers from the morning's batch would then be poured into a lined drawer to let cool, ready to be sliced into slabs to accompany the evening's dinner. Although it's no longer relied on as the primary means to fuel the Scottish day – and the big iron pot may no longer sit as the centrepiece in modern homes – porridge still brings people together.
Every autumn for 30 years, The Annual Golden Spurtle World Porridge Making Championship (this year, on 7 October) has brought together porridge lovers from countries as far afield as Ghana, Pakistan and Indonesia to the small village of Carrbridge in the Eastern Highlands. It's a community-focused event, and something, remarked Alan Meikle, managing director of Scottish oat producer Hamlyn's of Scotland, that's reminiscent of the original role of oat mills in local towns and villages – uniting people around food.
David Burton/Alamy
Some of the best oats in the world come from Scotland (Credit: David Burton/Alamy)
Twenty competitors go head-to-head for the title of The Golden Spurtle: Porridge Making World Champion, with audience members invited to taste each of the cooks' oat-based creations. Competitors vie for the much-coveted title in two categories: the speciality competition, where the mostly amateur cooks create a sweet or savoury dish limited only by their imagination; and the main competition, where things get serious. The rules are simple but strict: do whatever you need to do with the traditional combination of oats, water and salt to make the best porridge possible. No pre-cooking allowed.
It's not all about porridge in Scotland, however. Historically, households have also baked oatcakes, or bannocks, to represent hope, love and celebration throughout the year. Farming families would specially prepare a Beltane bannock, an oatcake made to mark the Gaelic version of the May Day festival at the start of summer – part of a ritual to bring good fortune for the coming season. Standing around the fire, they would offer pieces of the bannock, first to the spirits to bless and protect their crops and animals, and then to each of the pests and predators that could cause harm. Similarly, at Halloween, as the darkness of winter was fully established, bakers would add large amounts of salt to their bannocks to bring on dreams of the future.
Oatcakes were also just a great way of fuelling on the move. "Oats were, in fact, the original fast food," said Liz Ashworth, one of Scotland's leading food writers, "and they've become part of our folklore because of their nutritional value and portability." That folklore includes stories of soldiers at the Battle of Bannockburn carrying leather pouches of oats and a metal plate for heating on the fire; of local women feeding retreating soldiers at the roadside; of drovers who created a black pudding-like cake from oats and the blood of their cattle; and of fishermen who would dip a handful of oats into the salty water before kneading them into a bannock to fuel their days at sea.
Honest Oats
Rewilding of oats creates a huge boost in biodiversity (Credit: Honest Oats)
The Scottish relationship with the oat is changing, however. Although still rooted in health and hope, it's about more than simple and immediate survival. Efforts are being made by an increasing number of passionate producers to bring great taste to tables in more sustainable and future-friendly ways that could make a real difference to Scotland.
Mike Medlock's family have been oat farmers for more than 50 years in Fife, initially providing organic feed for racehorses before moving onto feeding people. When Medlock returned to run his family's oat farm, Honest Oats, in 2021, after pursuing a career in civil engineering, he did so with a renewed energy and perspective. The passion for producing great tasting oats with minimal environmental impact remained, but now he had a keen eye on long-term farming sustainability – how could he marry traditional Scottish milling methods that produce the famed nutty oat taste with future-looking farming that contributed to Scotland's future? The starting point was to rewild parts of the land. Rather than overworking the fields and stripping them of nutrients, rewilding created a huge boost in biodiversity for the area that helps retain the quality of the oat yield into the future. Medlock also continues to dry and hand-turn the oats in a 143-year-old flat-floored kiln, a labour-intensive process that provides a valuable connection to the history of the oat in Scotland.
Also working hard to combine sustainability with taste is Italian-inspired restaurant Celentano's in Glasgow. Here, the menu revolves around seasonal produce, ingredients are sourced locally where possible and nothing is wasted. This starts with the first thing placed on the table: the bread.
Celentano's
The oats in this sourdough loaf give it a nutty flavor (Credit: Celentano's)
"Dean's obsessed with bread," said co-owner and managing director Anna Parker, of her husband, who is the chef. "He's been working on our recipe for a long time. It used to be a porridge bread, but now it's a sourdough bread with oats to give a nutty flavour." The waste product from soaking the locally grown oats for the bread is transformed by the restaurant's bartenders, who turn it into an oat syrup to replace the cream in a White Russian cocktail.
But oats are not just in the bread and cocktails; Celentano's savoury porridge (see recipe below), a sumptuous cross between a traditional breakfast bowl and a classic Italian risotto, is also a popular winter dish.
Oat milk is also undergoing a transformation. While its popularity may seem recent, the beverage has been fuelling people in Scotland for centuries. Brose Oats is the only oat milk company currently producing oat milk in Scotland using Scottish oats, and Barton believes they can make a real difference to Scotland, assuring that oat milk continues to be a sustainable staple on Scottish tables.
Keeping it local is the way forward. "We're shining a light on Scottish farming, getting young people interested in food and agriculture, supporting local people, jobs and education, and really, we're generating our own circular economy," said Barton.
Wendie Barrie
These black and white oats have been harvested with a scythe and await threshing (Credit: Wendie Barrie)
But there's still one missing link, said Wendy Barrie, a Scottish chef, educator and slow food advocate. Heritage grains, such as the Shetland Black Oat, have been forgotten for more than 80 years. Barrie and her husband, who is a farmer, have been growing the oat in their garden to understand more of its potential. This unmodified grain has become adaptable to the Scottish climate in a way that modified, modern strains aren't. Slightly darker in colour, Barrie says it has a higher fat content, giving it greater flavour than a regular oat, with a hint of sweetness.
Mindful of the risk that climate change and soil degradation poses to modern oat strains, Barrie and her husband are now working on cultivating these heritage grains to enter into the Ark of Taste Programme – a Slow Food programme designed to preserve and protect different food sources from around the UK – ensuring that oats will be around in Scotland for the long term, whatever the effects of climate change.
So, can the oat continue to fuel Scotland and its people as it has in the past? "Absolutely," said Barrie. "Food culture is important, but that's the history. The food product is the saviour. The oat is the now and the future because we can grow it here… and it adapts slowly to change."
Celentano's
This savoury porridge is a cross between a traditional breakfast bowl and Italian risotto (Credit: Celentano's)
Celentano's Savoury Oats recipe By Dean Parker
Serves 4
Ingredients 100g whole oat groats (oat groats are the whole oat kernel minus the husk) 100g wheat grain 100g einkorn grain (a form of ancient wheat; you can substitute short-grain brown rice) sea salt, preferably Maldon 1 tbsp miso paste
Method
Step 1 Soak each grain separately with 300ml of water in a sealed, sanitised container with a lid to ferment. The grains will ferment quicker if slightly warmer – the ideal temperature is around 25C/77F. They usually take two days to ferment. When the mixtures start to bubble, they are ready to cook.
Step 2 Add 2g salt to each grain container. Add the fermented grains to separate, small saucepans. Bring each to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and cover with lids. Once the grains are cooked, about 10 to 15 minutes for the oat groats and 20 minutes for the rice (you want them slightly overcooked), take them off the heat.
Step 3 Combine all the grains into one large pot and add the miso paste. Serve.
Note Parker suggests serving the oats with roasted parsnips, or as they do at Celentano's, with a parsnip puree with grouse and a sloe berry (also called blackthorn) sauce that's perfect for the autumnal season. It is also delicious with some wild mushrooms and charred onion as a vegetarian option.
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Sheikh el mahshi: Aubergines filled with ground beef
By Tessa Fox Features correspondent
Tessa Fox
Sheihk al mahshi: Beef-filled aubergine (Credit: Tessa Fox)
Sheikh el mahshi is an alluring dish of fried aubergines stuffed with an aromatic filling of beef mince and pine nuts, then baked in a rich tomato sauce.
In the Levant, there's a diverse array of dishes called mahshi (stuffed vegetables), including kousa bil labn (stuffed courgette cooked with yoghurt), beitenjan mahshi (aubergine simmered in a rich tomato sauce), malfouf (rolled cabbage leaves) that resemble delicate fingers, and waraq einab (grape leaves) that are similar to dolma eaten in Turkey, Greece, the Balkans and Iraq.
What all these mahashi (the plural of mahshi) share in common is that they are filled predominantly with rice then layered inside a big pot to be covered in steaming broth or sauce and cooked on the stove until tender.
But there is one mahshi that stands out from all the others: an alluring dish of fried aubergines with beef mince and pine nuts that's baked in a rich tomato sauce. Its name, sheikh el mahshi ("king of stuffed dishes"), alludes to its specialness, as it was historically served to kings and sultans and is the only mahshi with meat and nuts, ingredients that were a sign of wealth.
Sheikh el mahshi varies throughout the region. In Turkey, it's called karniyarik and is topped with a green chilli. In other Levantine countries, it's made with courgettes that are cooked with yoghurt. In Lebanon, there's also a similar dish called kousa ablama made with beef mince and onion-filled courgettes cooked in a tomato sauce.
Sheikh el mahshi appears regularly on menus in traditional Lebanese restaurants, but while it might be fit for royalty, it's also easy to cook on a weeknight.
Lebanese food blogger and recipe creator Nell Rahayel prepares sheikh el mahshi because her whole family enjoys it. "Sheikh el mahshi is one of those meals that we would call comfort food, my kids love it," she said as she started frying beef mince in her kitchen in the mountains outside Beirut.
Besides also creating menus for restaurants and recipes for food brands, Rahayel and her husband Anthony (the award-winning food blogger behind No Garlic No Onions) run a store in Paris called Le Doukane that sells artisanal Lebanese products, as well as a shop in Lebanon called Made By Nature, which brings together 2,500 local products.
Tessa Fox
Sheikh el mahshi appears regularly on menus in traditional Lebanese restaurants (Credit: Tessa Fox)
Some of those products make their way into Rahayel's sheikh el mahshi, such as dibs roman (pomegranate molasses), which she adds to the mince meat to deepen its flavour. A whole shelf in Rahayel's pantry is lined with bottles of it from different villages in Lebanon, which shows her appreciation for the condiment.
"I'm a dibs roman person, I love it," she said, explaining how it works much like a balsamic glaze, enhancing the smell and colour of the meat. However, if you can't find pomegranate molasses, she explained that you can still make sheikh el mahshi without it.
She also puts wild zaatar (dried thyme) into the tomato sauce, and then tops the aubergine with a mix of mozzarella and cheddar before putting it into the oven. To make the tomato sauce for sheikh el mahshi, Rahayel suggests using tomato juice instead of cooking down fresh tomatoes, because most of the water has already been evaporated and it saves time in preparing and cooking.
When the sheikh el mahshicomes out of the oven, the tomato sauce bubbles and the cheese has browned and melted into the meat and aubergine. It smells wonderful, like the Italian classic parmigiana di melanzane (eggplant parmigiana), and has a rich taste, with slight sweet and sour notes.
Sheikh el mahshiis served with rice and shaareyyeh (vermicelli), a Lebanese specialty that's generally full of butter. "The more shaareyyeh, the better," Rahayel said.
Tessa Fox
Lebanese food blogger and recipe creator Nell Rahayel prepares sheikh el mahshi because her whole family enjoys it (Credit: Tessa Fox)
Sheikh el Mahshi recipe By Nell Rahayel
serves 6
Ingredients For the sheikh el mahshi: 2kg long, slender aubergines sea salt vegetable oil for deep frying 3 tbsp olive oil 1 medium-sized onion, grated 500g fine beef mince 4 tbsp pomegranate molasses, plus more for splashing 2 tbsp pine nuts (can also use slivered almonds) fresh ground black pepper 1 litre tomato juice 3 tbsp dried thyme 200g mozzarella, shredded 200g cheddar, shredded For the Lebanese rice: 2 cups vermicelli 1 tbsp olive oil 3 cups long grain rice, washed in water until the water runs clear 4½ cups of water 1 tsp salt
Method
Step 1 Peel the aubergines so it looks like they're wearing stripped pyjamas, then place in a bowl and toss them with salt (so they don't absorb so much oil). Set aside for about 30 minutes, then drain.
Step 2 In a large pot, heat the vegetable oil to 180C/350F. Deep fry the aubergines in batches for about 10 minutes, or until fully cooked. Transfer the aubergines to paper towels to remove the excess oil, turning them as the oil soaks up.
Step 3 In a frying pan, heat the olive oil over low heat. Add the onion and the beef mince and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is completely cooked, about 10 minutes. Slowly add the pomegranate molasses and pine nuts and cook until the liquid is mostly evaporated. Season with ½ tsp each of salt and pepper.
Step 4 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F. Place the whole aubergines in a deep baking dish with the stems to the edge. Use a knife to open them up by making a little slit down the middle of each one. Spoon the cooked ground beef into them, using a tablespoon to fill them as much as possible.
Step 5 Pour the tomato sauce into a bowl and stir in ½ tsp salt, a splash of pomegranate molasses, and a pinch of dried thyme. Very slowly pour the tomato sauce over the aubergines so the meat doesn't come out. Be generous so the aubergines are juicy when cooked.
Step 6 Cover the aubergines with the cheese, starting with the mozzarella and then finishing with the cheddar on top to give a golden-brown colour when melted. Sprinkle with a little thyme.
Step 7 Place in the preheated oven and bake for 30 minutes, or until the sauce starts boiling and thickens and the cheese is melted. Serve with the Lebanese rice on the side.
Step 8 Make the Lebanese Rice: in a saucepan over low heat, fry the vermicelli in the olive oil, stirring constantly, as the pasta will burn quickly. (You can add butter instead of oil for a more golden crunch.)
Step 9 Once the vermicelli is browned, stir in the rice to fry a little, then add the water. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook over low heat for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the rice is al dente (you will know it is perfectly cooked when there are holes between the rice).
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Italy's classic pasta e patate (pasta and potatoes) dish
By Jonathan Hatchman Features correspondent
Tomasso Galli
Italy's classic pasta e patate (Credit: Tomasso Galli)
This comforting and creamy blend of pasta, potatoes and melted cheese is a perfect example of Italy's humble form of peasant cooking known as "cucina povera".
Literally meaning "poor kitchen", cucina povera is a traditional style of Italian cooking that embraces a frugal, no-waste philosophy. Created out of necessity, cucina povera is considered poor in terms of cost, but never poor in flavour; uncomplicated, but by no means unremarkable.
With a long, rich history deeply ingrained in Italian culture and the daily life of many families, the dishes of cucina povera have provided nourishment for centuries. Its exact origins aren't particularly clear, but food historians suggest that cucina povera is rooted in the countryside traditions of "peasant cooking", dating back long before Italy was unified in 1870, first concocted for manual labourers in need of affordable sustenance. As such, cucina povera dishes make great use of humble, inexpensive ingredients or leftovers. Think small animals such as rabbit and poultry – all simple to hunt – or less popular offal cuts from pigs and cattle, plus beans, legumes and plenty of carbohydrates like pasta, potatoes and bread.
Some of Italy's most beloved dishes were born from cucina povera. Dishes like panzanella and ribollita made use of leftover bread. Pasta, another frugal ingredient, was behind classics like cacio e pepe, pasta puttanesca and carbonara. One standout dish, pasta e patate (pasta and potatoes), combines two affordable ingredients in a soupy, delicious manner that is still enjoyed today.
"Cucina povera is the way we've been cooking in my family since I can remember," explained Giulia Scarpaleggia, a Tuscan food writer, author and cooking class teacher. Scarpaleggia launched her cooking blog, Juls' Kitchen in 2009, borne from a deeply rooted passion for simple, traditional Tuscan food. She has since gone on to host cooking classes and a podcast called Cooking with an Italian Accent. In April 2023, she published a new cookbook, Cucina Povera: The Italian Way of Transforming Humble Ingredients into Unforgettable Meals.
Tomasso Galli
Scarpaleggia launched her cooking blog, Juls' Kitchen in 2009, borne from a deeply rooted passion for simple, traditional Tuscan food (Credit: Tomasso Galli)
"I wanted it to be a comprehensive book on the Italian cucina povera tradition," said Scarpaleggia. "There had to be weeknight meal ideas, something you could quickly stir together with pantry ingredients; seasonal recipes, where the freshness of the produce could shine through simple preparations; and celebratory dishes, designed to feed small crowds and exalt the Italian joy of conviviality".
Pasta e patate is one of the book's tastiest recipes, layering carb upon carb, cemented with soft melted cheese. Simply, it is comfort food at its best.
"My grandma Marcella learned to cook pasta with potatoes from my Aunt Valeria, who was from Basilicata, in the south of Italy," Scarpaleggia explained. "From that day of many, many years ago, she developed her own recipe, revised according to our ingredients, to her personal taste and cooking style. For example, instead of caciocavallo, a hard and sharp-flavoured, pear-shaped cheese from the south of Italy, we use grated Parmigiano Reggiano and also the leftover crusts of Parmigiano, cut into cubes. Once you boil them for a while, they become soft and chewy, giving an intense flavour to the broth".
Throughout Italy, many versions of pasta e patate exist with varying ingredients and cooking methods, and while Scarpaleggia has fond memories of her grandmother's recipe, the book's pasta e patate recipe is more in line with the traditional version from Naples.
"The Neapolitan version, neither a soup nor a simple plate of pasta, is usually described as azzeccata, dense, creamy and well mixed, thanks to the stringy melted provolone cheese that binds it all together," explained Scarpaleggia. "A key ingredient is a Parmigiano Reggiano rind that cooks with the pasta and potatoes, adding depth of flavour to the dish".
Scarpaleggi's recipe starts with a foundation of onion, celery and garlic, which are softened in extra virgin olive oil. White potatoes and pancetta are added, followed by water, tomatoes and a Parmigiano Reggiano rind. Scarpaleggia suggests cooking the potatoes until perfectly soft, checking their doneness by mashing the potatoes against the sides of the pot with a wooden spoon. If the potatoes can easily be mashed, they're done.
The next stage is adding pasta mista. This mixture of pasta shapes is an exemplary example of cucina povera, originating in Naples as a blend of leftover pasta cuts from factories to prevent any waste. Once the pasta mista is al dente, both grated and cubed provolone cheese are stirred in until melted and creamy.
"I used to prepare pasta e patate as my grandmother would do, until I tried the Neapolitan version," said Scarpaleggia. "We were sitting in this little, crowded, loud eatery in a neighbourhood market with some friends when I spotted pasta e patate on the menu. I had to have it, especially because it was made with provola [provolone], a delicious local cheese. That literally changed my life, it was comfort on a plate!"
Tomasso Galli
Italy's classic pasta e patate (Credit: Tomasso Galli)
Pasta, patate e provola recipe
By Giulia Scarpaleggia
Serves 4 to 6 as a first course
Ingredients 60ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 white onion, minced 1 celery stalk, minced 1 clove garlic, minced fine sea salt 565g (1¼lb) white potatoes, peeled and cut into ½ in/1½ cm cubes 60g (2oz) pancetta, diced 1 litre (4 cups) hot water, lightly salted 4 Roma (plum) tomatoes, diced 1 Parmigiano-Reggiano rind, about 5-by-2 cm/2-by-¾ in 225 (2 cups/16oz) pasta mista, ditali or other short, dried pasta 45g (1½oz) aged provolone or Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated 140g (5oz) young provolone, cubed freshly ground black pepper
Method
Step 1 Pour the olive oil into a large pot set over low heat. Add the onion, celery, garlic and a generous pinch of salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft (about 10 minutes).
Step 2 Add the potatoes and pancetta, stir, and cook for about 5 minutes, taking care not to brown the potatoes. Pour in 500ml/2 cups of the hot water (it should be enough to cover the potatoes), add the tomatoes and Parmigiano-Reggiano rind, and cook over medium heat for about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until you can easily mash the potatoes against the sides of the pot with a wooden spoon.
Step 3 Pour in the remaining 480ml/2 cups of hot water, add the pasta, and stir thoroughly. Bring to a simmer and cook until the soup has thickened and the pasta is al dente (about 10 minutes).
Step 4 Remove the pot from the heat, add both cheeses and stir energetically to melt them. Taste and adjust the seasoning with additional salt and with pepper.
Step 5 Ladle the soup into warmed bowls, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with pepper and serve. The Parmigiano-Reggiano rind can be cut into small pieces and added to the bowls. Any leftover soup can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Reheat gently over low heat, adding a bit of water as necessary to thin.
Tip Today pasta mista is popular in many dishes and can even be bought, but a mixture of pasta shapes can also be used.
(Recipe excerpted from Cucina Povera by Giulia Scarpaleggia/Artisan Books. Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Tomasso Galli.)
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Sweet and sour pineapple prawns
By Clarissa Wei Features correspondent
Yen Wei and Ryan Chen
Taiwan's pineapple prawns are topped with hundreds and thousands, also known as sprinkles (Credit: Yen Wei and Ryan Chen)
Clarissa Wei, author of the new cookbook, Made in Taiwan, explains her country's deep love for sugar and its role in dishes like stir-fried prawns served with pineapple.
There's a deep love for sugar in Taiwan, a love so pervasive and distinct that it can be shocking. I've had pork sausages that taste like sweets (candy), and milkfish soup so saccharine that someone tasting it for the very first time could easily mistake it for dessert.
"When we make spring rolls, we stir-fry the ingredients inside the roll with nothing but sugar," said Yen Wei, the food stylist for my new cookbook, Made in Taiwan, published this September. Wei was born and raised in the southern city of Tainan, the island's first metropolis and the birthplace of the country's sugar industry.
"Not even a pinch of salt?" I asked, sceptical.
She shook her head. "No salt," she said, beaming and proud.
The Taiwanese love for sugar evolved alongside the island's colonial history. The industry was first jump-started by the Dutch East India Company in the early 17th Century, which recruited farmers from China to grow sugarcane in what is now modern-day Tainan. Early sugarcane operations were powered exclusively by oxen, who would pull carts to turn a series of stone gears to crush and extract juice from the sugarcane. Workers would then manually boil, filter and crystallise the juice to form glistening granules of sugar.
At that time, Taiwan-produced sugar was held in high regard on the global market and commanded premium prices. By the 1720s, when parts of Taiwan had been occupied by China's Qing Dynasty, Taiwan was producing more sugar than any other island the world. But because most of it was destined for the export market, for the residents of Taiwan, it was considered an ingredient of luxury – something reserved for very important guests and special occasions. The sweeter a meal, the more refined it was – a philosophy that was eventually embraced by the layman and began to show up in the street food scene.
While researching my cookbook last year, I found myself in a small restaurant kitchen in Tainan, watching the chef prepare minced pork belly over rice, a street food dish ubiquitous across the country. He stir-fried pixels of finely diced pork belly over the stove, rendering out some of its fat as large bright flames licked the side of the carbon steel wok. He poured in some old braising liquid from the day before, then added water, soy sauce, an impressively tall mound of white sugar and fried shallots. That was it. Dressed over sticky granules of short-grain rice, the finished pork sparkled in the light. The complexity of the dish came from the braising sauce, but the sugar was what helped coaxed out the flavour.
Yen Wei and Ryan Chen
Sweetness is a dominant flavour profile in Taiwanese cuisine (Credit: Yen Wei and Ryan Chen)
When Taiwan became a Japanese colony in the late 19th Century, the sugar industry was transformed from a primitive (yet very productive) enterprise into a modern powerhouse. At that time, the Empire of Japan was reliant on imported sugar, and Taiwan's subtropical climate meant that it was the perfect place to establish a proper sugar industry. Manually powered mills were swapped out for state-of-the-art factories equipped with the latest machinery. Sugar became such a dominant part of the economy that, at one point, sugarcane growers made up one-third of all rural households in Taiwan. Most of the sugar produced at that time was shipped and consumed exclusively within the Japanese Empire.
In 1946, after the government of the Republic of China took control of the island, the sugar industry was turned into a public enterprise and reopened to the global market once again. However, because of high tariffs, Taiwan could no longer compete on the international market and production quickly plummeted.
Today, Taiwan is no longer an international sugar superpower, but sweetness remains a dominant flavour profile in the cuisine. Fundamental sauces like soy paste – a thick brown sauce served over hearty street food dishes like spring onion pancakes and stinky tofu, or haishan sauce – a reddish sauce typically drizzled on top of seafood – are significantly heavier on the sugar than the salt.
Sugar is also commonly used as a finishing touch for many of the island's savoury dishes. At the night markets, for example, thick rectangular skewers of pig's blood cake are dressed with soy paste and garnished with coriander, crushed peanut powder and a couple of teaspoons of white sugar to finish.
My personal favourite is a whimsical sweet and sour pineapple-prawn dish that can be found at many beer-centric restaurants across the island. Arranged neatly next to fresh cubes of pineapples, shelled prawns are tossed in a sweet mayonnaise and then topped with sugary hundreds and thousands (rainbow sprinkles). It's sugar on sugar. Instead of a rare ingredient reserved for the elite, sugar has now become an everyday staple.
For my cookbook, my team and I made and photographed more than 70 Taiwanese dishes over two weeks at Wei's studio in Tainan. At the end of each shooting day, we always had a plethora of leftovers that we would repurpose and reheat into a family-style dinner. And every time we sat down, I'd watch with delight as Wei seasoned her plate like a true southern Taiwanese epicurean – with even more sugar.
Yen Wei and Ryan Chen
The prawns are fried, coated with Japanese mayonnaise and served with pineapple (Credit: Yen Wei and Ryan Chen)
Pineapple Prawns recipe By Clarissa Wei
Serves 4
Sweet and sour is a universal flavour combination, and using fruit as the acid of choice is a common technique in East Asia. Southern China, for example, has cubes of chicken thighs sautéed in an orange juice slurry, which eventually evolved into the American Chinese deep-fried orange chicken we know and love today. In Taiwan, we use pineapple instead of oranges and prawns instead of chicken. The prawns are deep-fried and then coated with a heavy hand of Kewpie (Japanese-style) mayonnaise. It's then served with pineapples, which can be tossed with the prawns or served on the side. To finish, the dish is often garnished with hundreds and thousands (rainbow sprinkles) for a pop of colour – though toasted sesame seeds are traditional and admittedly a bit more demure.
Ingredients For the prawns: 450g (1lb) peeled and deveined large prawns (see Notes) 1 tsp Taiwanese rice wine (michiu) or cooking sake ½ tsp fine sea salt 1 egg white 1 tbsp tapioca starch or cornflour ½ tsp toasted sesame oil 4 cups (1 litre) canola or soybean oil For the sauce and garnish: ¼ cup (60g) Kewpie mayonnaise 1½ tsp rice vinegar 1 tsp white sugar ½ tsp fine sea salt 300g (10½oz) fresh pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 2.5cm (1in) wide wedges hundreds and thousands (rainbow sprinkles) or toasted white sesame seeds
Method
Step 1 Make the prawns. Pat the prawns completely dry with kitchen paper. In a large bowl, combine the prawns, rice wine and salt. Mix to combine, then add the egg white. Mix to combine again and add the tapioca starch and sesame oil. Massage the marinade into the prawns with your hands. Cover and chill in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes.
Step 2 In a large wok over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it registers 175C/350F on an instant-read thermometer. Add half of the prawns and fry, stirring so they don't clump together, until they curl and turn pink, about 1 minute. With a spider strainer, transfer the prawns to a kitchen paper–lined plate and drain thoroughly. Repeat with the remaining prawns. When the prawns are cool enough to handle, gently pat off any excess oil with more kitchen paper.
Step 3 Make the sauce. In a small bowl, mix together the Kewpie mayonnaise, rice vinegar, white sugar and salt. In a large mixing bowl, combine the fried prawns and sauce and mix until the prawns are completely coated. Transfer to a serving plate, and artfully arrange the pineapple on the perimeter of the plate. Garnish with rainbow sprinkles (hundreds and thousands) and serve.
Notes If you're buying shell-on prawns, 900g (2lb) shell-on prawns will yield about 450g (1lb) peeled prawns.
Canned pineapple will work as well; just make sure to drain before use.
Hundreds and thousands (rainbow sprinkles) as a garnish is popular in the south of Taiwan. For northerners, it's considered a bit tacky.
(Recipe excerpted from Made In Taiwan: Recipes and Stories from the Island Nation. Copyright @ 2023 by Clarissa Wei. Reproduced by permission of Simon Element, and imprint of Simon & Schuster. All rights reserved.)
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Hong Kong must-eats: Iconic Cantonese dishes and where to try them
By Chris Dwyer Features correspondent
Oscar Wong/Getty Images
(Credit: Oscar Wong/Getty Images)
From Tsim Chai Kee's prawn wonton noodles to char siu pork on rice at Sun Kwai Heung, head to these eight tried-and-tested spots to feast on beloved Cantonese classics.
With around 17,000 places to eat in Hong Kong, you're never far from a steaming bowl of something delicious. The city's culinary landscape features world-class Michelin-starred tasting menus and fine dining, but the majority of restaurants are humble, local spots where the prices are low and the proudly Cantonese dishes are comforting.
The combination of cramped home kitchens and expensive groceries means that for many, dining out is more cost-efficient than cooking at home. Consequently, brightly lit tea houses and noodle shops, busy takeaway stands and full-service restaurants all compete for an annual dining market where diners spend the equivalent of almost £9.2bn.
If you ask almost anyone in the city, they'll invariably have their own suggestion of where to find the best version of a particular dish. We're confident, however, that you can't go wrong at these eight tried-and-tested spots serving beloved Cantonese classics, from bamboo steamers filled with dumplings to glistening roast meats on rice.
Redonion1515/Getty Images
The prawn wonton noodles at Tsim Chai Kee are both delicious and affordable (Credit: Redonion1515/Getty Images)
1. Prawn wonton noodles: Tsim Chai Kee
Accolades from past editions of the Michelin Guide are proudly displayed on the walls and in the window at Tsim Chai Kee, located just off the famed outdoors escalator in the heart of Central district. It may come as a surprise, then, that prices for their classic Cantonese comfort food of prawn wonton noodles are decidedly wallet-friendly.
Just HK$38 (£4) buys you a generous bowl featuring three handmade dumplings each the size of a golf ball. Two prawns are used per dumpling, chopped up and mixed with fatty pork and dried mandarin peel to bind it, adding subtle notes of flavour as you bite through the soft folds of dumpling skin for a textural masterpiece.
Underneath sit bouncy egg noodles, while the fragrant broth is made from simmered pork bones with prawn heads, shells and air-dried cod, before the bowl is finished with a scattering of chopped spring onions.
As steam mists up the kitchen, visible through a service hatch, chefs also plate up noodles with two other topping options: sliced beef or fish balls made from dace fish – or even all three in the same bowl, if you're feeling hungry.
Address: Shop B, G/F, 98 Wellington St, Central Phone: +852 2850 6471
Hong Kong Tourism Board
Be sure to order a Hong Kong milk tea with your pineapple bun at Kam Wah Cafe & Bakery (Credit: Hong Kong Tourism Board)
2. Pineapple bun: Kam Wah Cafe & Bakery
Pineapple buns are a popular local snack and few spots can match Kam Wah Cafe & Bakery, especially when it comes to history. This year marks half a century since Chan Tim-wo, the son of a baker, opened his cafe serving the delicious sweet rolls in the always-on Mong Kok district, where a constant line of customers testifies to their popularity.
Chan's recipe, passed down by his father-in-law, has more than stood the test of time. While you'd expect the spiky tropical fruit to be the hero, confusingly there is, in fact, no pineapple at all in pineapple buns. The name actually comes from their crusty domed appearance that resembles pineapple skin.
That flaky, crunchy sweet crust atop the soft and fluffy bun is definitely best experienced hot from the oven, complete with a thick, cold pat of butter that quickly melts. To accompany, a cup of strong Hong Kong milk tea, made with either evaporated or condensed milk, is a non-negotiable.
As buttery aromas waft around you, check out the other options, including their egg tarts. But just make sure you know what you're ordering before calling staff over as service can generously be described as "brisk".
Address: 45-47 Bute St, Mong Kok Phone: +852 2392 6830 Instagram: @kamwahcafe
Chris Dwyer
Although there's numerous dim sum options in Hong Kong, Dim Dim Sum has won legions of fans (Credit: Chris Dwyer)
3. Dim Sum: Dim Dim Sum
Arguably Hong Kong's most famous culinary export, dim sum translates from Cantonese as "touch the heart" and few food traditions are as iconic. Options abound, including historic Luk Yu Tea House with its Art Deco interiors, or Maxim's Palace City Hall, where steaming baskets of dumplings, rice noodle rolls and more are served from trolleys pushed around the vast dining room.
Dim sum tips When eating dim sum, never pour your own tea before serving someone else first. Say thanks when someone does so for you by tapping three fingers on the table next to the cup. It's shorthand for bowing – and has a great backstory, according to some.
But a relative newcomer in the form of Dim Dim Sum has won legions of fans since opening in 2010. Despite being open from 11:00 until 02:00, a line outside the door is pretty much always guaranteed – but it's worth the wait.
Ordering is a breeze from the tick-box menu, which includes dozens of dishes from steamed rice noodle rolls called cheung fun generously stuffed with barbecued pork and courgette to delicate shrimp har gow dumplings with an almost translucent skin.
Chicken feet may not to be everyone's taste but here they're a textural joy, while lo mai gai, steamed glutinous rice and chicken wrapped in lotus leaf, is another great rendition. Don't miss their char siu bao, fluffy steamed buns hiding fabulously sticky and sweet roast pork.
The air conditioning here can feel Arctic, so don't linger too long before tucking in. Nobody likes a cold dumpling.
Website: http://www.dimdimsum.hk/ Address: G/F, 112 Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok Phone: +852 2309 2300 Instagram: @dimdimsumhk
Chris Dwyer
Curry fishballs are the go-to at Fishball Man but it's also worth ordering the fish-paste dumplings (Credit: Chris Dwyer)
4. Curry fishballs: Fishball Man
The definition of humble street food, fishballs (jyu daan) were first made by Chiu Chow people from China's Guangdong Province who turned parts of fish generally left uneaten into a paste, before rolling them into balls and boiling them.
Known as "fish eggs" when translated from Cantonese, these treats were traditionally made by hand and served in noodle soup in China, but Hong Kong places started frying them until golden brown then slathering them in curry sauce.
Fishball Man in To Kwa Wan is little more than a stand, with no seats – but this is, after all, food that is meant to be eaten on the go. Served simply in a paper cup, along with a stick to skewer them, their fish balls feature that bouncy, springy texture that is so sought-after in Cantonese cuisine and are distinguished by the accompanying sweet-spicy sauce.
While you're here, it's worth trying the small, yellow fish-paste dumplings called siu maithat are the perfect platform for the sauces lined up in squeezy bottles along the counter.
Street address: 50 Tin Kwong Road, To Kwa Wan Phone number: +852 9727 3347
Hong Kong Tourism Board
Kam's Roast Goose serves up one of the world's cheapest Michelin-starred meals (Credit: Hong Kong Tourism Board)
5. Roast goose: Kam's Roast Goose
A line outside a restaurant's door is always a good sign, and Kam's Roast Goose in the Wan Chai district has a permanent one as soon as they open at 11:00. Diners of all persuasions, from office to construction workers, students to tourists, are drawn in for a true Hong Kong classic: roast goose on rice.
Honoured with a Michelin star – a fact you can't miss when standing outside, given the prominent branding – it famously makes for one of the world's cheapest Michelin-starred meals. A rice set with roast goose will only set you back HK$55 – about £5.60.
Goose is just one of the roast meats on offer, glistening as they hang in the small kitchen space before being deftly prepped by cleaver-wielding chefs. The goose itself is sensational thanks to the combination of tender, succulent and juicy meat with perfectly crispy skin. Plum sauce on the side is a must.
You can also order roast goose leg in noodle soup, marinated goose feet, cured goose liver sausage or even roast goose neck and head as a side dish.
Website: www.krg.com.hk/!en/ Address: G/F Po Wah Commercial Center, 226 Hennessy Road Wan Chai Phone: +852 2520 1110
Hong Kong Tourism Board
Head to Kung Wo Dou Bun Chong for silky-smooth tofu pudding with brown sugar and ginger syrup (Credit: Hong Kong Tourism Board)
6. Sweet tofu pudding: Kung Wo Dou Bun Chong
On the elegantly tiled wall in the atmospheric tofu shop Kung Wo Dou Bun Chong, there's an image of a pair of golden scales on a circular black background. The symbol historically represented a merchant's integrity, ensuring that you would get what you pay for.
Kung Wo Dou Bun Chong has existed in some form – in different locations – since 1898, but one thing has remained constant: their devotion to making and serving the freshest tofu. Today, it's still crafted 18 hours a day in a cramped kitchen at the back of the shop in the working-class neighbourhood of Sham Shui Po.
First the soybeans are soaked to soften them, before they're ground under a hand-operated granite millstone that dates back more than a century. The technique ensures maximum smoothness, before water is added to make soy milk which is then poured into a large wooden barrel, strained through muslin cloth, then boiled. The result is a bowl of silky-smooth tofu, served hot or cold, with optional brown sugar and ginger syrup.
Open from 06:00 daily, other popular orders include bean curd puffs, deep-fried tofu and sugar-free soy milk. They have also expanded next door into a modern air conditioned shop – but it lacks the charm of the original.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kungwosoya Address: 118 Pei Ho St, Sham Shui Po Phone: +852 2386 6871
Chris Dwyer
Sun Kwai Heung in Chai Wan tops many lists of the best char siu in Hong Kong (Credit: Chris Dwyer)
7. Char siu pork on rice: Sun Kwai Heung
Back in 2016, the words char siu were added to the Oxford English Dictionary. They translate as "roasted on a fork" and are indelibly linked with Cantonese barbecued roast pork. Given its addictive, caramelised and charred crust, it holds legendary status in the pantheon of Hong Kong cuisine and is served everywhere from three-Michelin-starred restaurants like Lung King Heen through to the most humble local joint.
Char siu obsessives debate endlessly about the various merits of one spot over another, but the ratio of fat to lean meat and savoury-sweetness of marinade – while still highlighting the original pork flavour – combine to put Sun Kwai Heung atop many lists.
While no self-respecting Chinese chef would ever give up their marinade secret, honey or sugar, soy sauce, rice wine, Chinese five-spice powder and garlic cloves commonly feature. The marinated cuts, taken from the pork collar in the pig's shoulder are skewered on the "forks" that give char siu its name and then roasted vertically.
Doing so ensures that they are perfectly cooked all the way around, without too much oiliness when you bite into them. Sun Kwai Heung may sit in Chai Wan at the far end of the main subway line on Hong Kong Island, but that doesn't stop diners from making a pilgrimage for beautiful renditions. Most get it to go, but there are a handful of tables if you can't wait that long.
Address: Ground floor, 17 Kam Tam Yun House, 345 Chai Wan Rd, Chai Wan Phone: +852 2556 1183
Chris Dwyer
Classic comfort food is on the menu at Sun Hang Yuen Tea House, including scrambled egg and beef sandwiches (Credit: Chris Dwyer)
8. Scrambled egg and beef sandwich: Sun Hang Yuen Tea House
Cha chaan teng is the name given to iconic local Hong Kong "tea restaurants" serving up modestly priced food and drinks. A fine example of one is Sun Hang Yuen Tea House in Mong Kok, which has been in business since 1968 and is open daily from 06.30 until just before midnight.
Boxes of Black & White-brand evaporated milk, Pure Ceylon tea and loaves of white sliced bread are stacked high against the counter, while faded red plastic banquettes or round tables with stools are shared by diners from every walk of life, poring over laminated menus that also come in English.
Comfort food is the order of the day in dishes such as beef brisket noodle soup or pork chop with Portuguese curry sauce, but many diners come for quick bites involving sandwiches. Be sure to try their scrambled egg and beef sandwich, which is simple but moreish on bread or toast, with Sichuan spices adding a welcome kick. Hong Kong-style milk tea is a must-order alongside.
On leaving, check out the narrow alleyway that runs alongside the tea house and features an old school outdoors barber shop, where clients recline under maroon sheets.
Address: 186 Yu Chau St, Sham Shui Po Phone: +852 2386 2748
(Food writer Chris Dwyer lived in Hong Kong for almost 20 years and made it his mission to seek out as many as possible of the city's finest local eats.)
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José Andrés: The man who created an army of culinary first responders
By Sofia Perez Features correspondent
ZUMA Press, Inc./Alamy
Chef José Andrés founded World Central Kitchen in 2010 (Credit: ZUMA Press, Inc./Alamy)
Before chef José Andrés became famous for World Central Kitchen, he had already scaled the heights of his profession. His new cookbook celebrates the group's humanitarian impact.
"I remember this Spanish guy screaming," said chef-volunteer Karla Hoyos, describing the first time she met chef José Andrés. "He had just come from a meeting with FEMA [the US emergency management agency], and he was furious. And I thought, 'Oh, no, no, nooo…'." She shakes her head emphatically. "I am not going to deal with this person. I don't care who he is."
It was September 2017, shortly after Hoyos had arrived in Puerto Rico following Hurricane Maria, the deadly storm that devastated the island, killing nearly 3,000 people, making most roads impassable and knocking out 80% of the power grid. Several days earlier, Andrés had touched down with a team from his non-profit, World Central Kitchen (WCK), which he founded in 2010 after returning from Haiti where he fed survivors of a catastrophic earthquake. The organisation originally emphasised longer-term programmes – such as supporting nutritional training for young mothers – but after Maria, its efforts now focus on deploying an army of culinary first responders to feed people during and after the world's worst disasters, natural or otherwise.
Global Chef Champion For José Andrés, feeding people is not only something you do at a fancy restaurant; it means helping, sharing and building community.
As Andrés absorbed the enormity of the challenge facing Puerto Rico, he began calling in the troops, asking chef friends and others to pitch in. At the time, Puerto Rico was still under curfew, so the WCK team was working from 04:00 until about 20:00, and each day ended with a debrief led by Andrés at a hotel, one of only two open properties on the island.
Hoyos recalls the questions he asked. "How can we do better? How can we feed more people? Are we feeding them fruit? Healthy food?" A few days later, Andrés was due to deliver 5,000 meals to a town one hour away, but he told Hoyos to prepare an additional 1,000 sandwiches. When she pointed out that there were only 5,000 people in the entire town, making the extra food unnecessary, he replied, "What about the people I find on the way?" Her initial fear – that he would turn out to be another "hot-tempered" chef – quickly abated. "He thinks of everything, and he actually cares."
To Andrés, this intensity is just part of the job description. "[Chefs and cooks] have one of the greatest responsibilities in the world," he says. "We touch everything: agriculture, labour, immigration, the environment, diplomacy, national security. If we are not using our voices to say something, to help make the world a better place, why are we here?"
His views on the matter were shaped early by Robert Egger, the founder of DC Central Kitchen, a non-profit based in the nation's capital, where Andrés lives. Egger's group not only rescues imperfect produce from farmers to reduce food waste, but also salvages human beings that society has left behind, providing culinary training to the formerly incarcerated and other overlooked populations. "He taught me one of the most valuable lessons of my life," says Andrés. "Too often charity is about the redemption of the giver, when in fact it should be about the liberation of the receiver."
AB Forces News Collection/Alamy
World Central Kitchen cooked food in Puerto Rico following Hurricane Maria in 2017 (Credit: AB Forces News Collection/Alamy)
Before Andrés became famous for feeding an island, he had already scaled the heights of his profession, building a culinary empire in DC and beyond – nearly 40 restaurants to date, including The Bazaar, Zaytinya and his 12-seat avant-garde minibar. And don't forget to add bestselling author, TV host, podcast producer, educator and Nobel Peace Prize nominee to the résumé. His latest endeavour is a new cookbook, released on 12 September, which focuses on recipes associated with WCK's global relief work.
Born in Asturias, Spain, and raised in Barcelona, Andrés was shaped by his country's food culture. "We don't do much to good produce, fish and meat – it usually comes down to a little extra-virgin olive oil and some salt." It was an approach he first learned at home. "We weren't wealthy growing up, and my mom and dad had four boys to feed, so it usually came down to good, fresh food, cooked simply."
After dropping out of culinary school, he began working in Barcelona kitchens and on Spain's Costa Brava, where he met chef Ferran Adrià, his future boss and mentor. It was 1988, four years after Adrià had taken the helm at elBulli, a humble seaside restaurant in the Catalan town of Roses where Adrià went on to break every culinary norm imaginable. After lunch service, Adrià would stay behind in the kitchen to experiment, and Andrés was always there by his side. One day, they attempted to fry a gelatine only to have it explode in the oil. "Our reaction was one of surprise, like 'we're crazy!'," says Adrià, "but at the same time, there was also this feeling of 'everything is possible'."
American Photo Archive/Alamy
José Andrés met with Volodymyr Zelenskyy during a World Central Kitchen mission to Ukraine (Credit: American Photo Archive/Alamy)
Eventually, Andrés left Spain for the US, doing stints in New York and California before taking the reins of a new Washington DC restaurant called Jaleo. It wasn't long before he drew customers, media attention and the respect of his peers. Adrià extols his protégé's formidable skills – "José has a special talent for everything related to gastronomy" – and the sentiment is echoed by Andrés' good friend Eric Ripert, the chef of NYC's Le Bernardin, the only restaurant to maintain its four-star rating from The New York Times for three decades. "José is, in my opinion, if not the most creative, one of the most creative chefs today in the world. The man can cook."
José has the capability, wherever he is in the world, to make others feel seen. He can do it in multiple languages. He can even do it with languages he doesn't speak, because he has that emotional connection with people
You hear the same level of admiration from chefs at the pinnacle of the industry, but the respect and affection that Andrés inspires is rooted in much more than his culinary prowess. "Cooking is not something you do just for the 1%. It's a much larger world than that," says Marcus Samuelsson, the Ethiopian-Swedish star chef and TV personality. "José has the capability, wherever he is in the world, to make others feel seen. He can do it in multiple languages. He can even do it with languages he doesn't speak, because he has that emotional connection with people."
When asked how to describe Andrés, Dominique Crenn said she would not even lead with the fact that he's a chef. "This guy is an incredible human, and I've experienced that for myself." Not long after becoming the first woman chef in the US to earn three Michelin stars for her Atelier Crenn in San Francisco, she was diagnosed with breast cancer, and Andrés was a constant source of support. "In my industry, it's a boys' club, but he saw me for who I was. And he's a great listener."
Listening is a skill Andrés learned early in his career, as demonstrated through a recipe in the new World Central Kitchen Cookbook, a beautiful compendium of dishes that were created or adapted for the organisation's "activations" at disaster sites around the world. It features recipes from Michelle Obama, Meghan Markle, Guy Fieri, Ayesha Curry, Tyler Florence, Emeril Lagasse and other chefs who've served on the front lines, including some of those quoted in this piece.
During his first days in Haiti after the 2010 earthquake, Andrés was cooking with a group of local women. "I made them some black beans the way I knew how to make them, the big-deal chef from Washington, and they looked at me in a funny way." In the recipe that they subsequently taught him – Sòs Pwa Nwa (see recipe below) – the beans are passed through a sieve to create a creamy purée, which is served with white rice. "If I had listened instead of just started cooking, I would have understood what these women wanted."
Abaca Press/Alamy
World Central Kitchen provides food to people during and after the world's worst disasters (Credit: Abaca Press/Alamy)
That take-home message became an integral part of WCK's modus operandi. When the team arrives at a new location, it makes a point of collaborating with local chefs and community members to better understand the food culture of a place. "José would say, 'Yeah, I like paella, but I'm not gonna go to Ukraine and give them paella,'" says Hoyos. "You have to know what their comfort food is like. If you're gonna help, it's about them. It's not about you." Ripert echoes the sentiment. "For José, it's always about others – he's a sensitive man. But despite the harsh reality of war, of bombs falling or a crisis where people are almost having riots to get food, I see him wanting to go back and fight injustice."
WCK's effectiveness rests on its ability to react quickly, a trait its founder seems to possess in spades. When Samuelsson first teamed up with the organisation in the earliest days of the pandemic, Andrés had already seen the writing on the wall. "It's like March 9th, [2020]," says Samuelsson, "and we close Red Rooster [his flagship restaurant in Harlem]. José calls me and says, 'Hey we have masks, we have gloves, we know how to serve safe. I know your community is gonna need support. Can we collaborate?" In just a few days, they were serving 200 people daily, a number that quickly climbed to 1,500.
The more you read about WCK, however, the more you realise that filling peoples' stomachs is not the sole purpose. It's important, of course, and the food has to be delicious, but it's also about feeding their souls. There's a famous photo in the cookbook that was taken in Puerto Rico soon after Maria. Andrés and local chef José Enrique are seen serving a stew called sancocho in front of a cheery pink building. If you didn't know better, their facial expressions and body language might fool you into thinking it was a cookout, instead of a mission.
According to Andrés, that's intentional. "We must fill people with hope, especially when they have just been through some of the most traumatic moments of their lives. This is empathy."
World Central Kitchen Cookbook/Clarkson Potter
Sòs Pwa Nwa (Black Bean Sauce) from the World Central Kitchen Cookbook (Credit: World Central Kitchen Cookbook/Clarkson Potter)
Sòs Pwa Nwa (Black Bean Sauce) recipe
When José made black beans and rice for a group of women in Haiti after the 2010 earthquake, he learned two lessons: first, they wanted their beans smooth, without skins; and second, the Big Name Chef had a lot to learn about listening. These are the beans that changed everything: pureed and sieved until creamy and rich, perfect with a side of rice and good conversation. The dish he was unknowingly making was sòs pwa nwa, Kreyòl for "sauce pois noir," or "black bean sauce" in English. Haitian chef Mi-Sol Chevallier tells a story about the dish: Growing up, before her family had a blender, they would peel each bean by hand. Hopefully you have a blender at home, but if not, you'd better start peeling.
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients For black bean sauce: 1 cup dried black beans 8 whole cloves 1 medium yellow onion, peeled but whole 2 tbsp épis (see below) 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste cooked white rice, for serving For épis: 1 bunch scallions, roughly chopped 1 head garlic (8-10 cloves), separated into cloves and peeled ¼ to ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, as needed
Method
Step 1 To make épis: in a blender, combine the scallions, garlic and just enough olive oil to get the blades moving and blend until you have a smooth, loose, bright green paste. Reserve 2 tbsp for the black bean sauce and refrigerate the rest for another use in a glass jar or other airtight container for up to 1 month.
Step 2 To make black bean sauce: in a medium saucepan, combine the beans with enough water to cover by 1 inch. Soak for 4 hours or up to overnight.
Step 3 Bring the beans and soaking liquid to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the beans are very soft, 1 to 1½ hours, adding water as needed to keep the beans covered – keep a close watch and stir occasionally so the beans don't burn.
Step 4 When the beans are soft enough to easily mash, drain them in a sieve set over a medium bowl. Reserve the cooking liquid and transfer the beans to a high-powered blender. Puree the beans until they're very, very smooth, adding a little of the cooking liquid if needed to get the blender going. If you don't have a high-powered blender and your puree still has some texture from the skins, you can press the puree through a fine-mesh sieve with the back of a wooden spoon over a medium bowl. Return the puree to the saucepan.
Step 5 Insert the pointy end of the cloves into the surface of the peeled onion until it's studded all over (this is an oignon clouté, or "studded onion", a traditional French flavour booster). Add the épis, salt and 1 cup of the reserved cooking liquid to the bean puree and stir to combine. Add the clove-studded onion and cook over medium-low heat, stirring regularly, for 20 to 30 minutes, to get the right consistency – you want the final dish to be smooth, creamy and the texture of a thick soup. Add more of the cooking liquid or water as needed.
Step 6 Taste for seasoning and add more salt as needed. Serve hot with white rice.
(Recipe excerpted from The World Central Kitchen Cookbook: Feeding Humanity, Feeding Hope. Published by Clarkson Potter.)
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Brazil’s mysterious tunnels made by giant sloths
By Sarah Brown Features correspondent
Heinrich Theodore Frank
(Credit: Heinrich Theodore Frank)
These tunnels were once believed to hide religious fortunes deep in their chambers, but the real treasure is found in who – or what – created them.
In 2009, a farmer was driving through his corn field in the south of Brazil when he suddenly felt his tractor sink and lurch to one side, making the vehicle shudder to a halt. He jumped out and saw the wheel had sunk deep into the dry soil.
Much to the farmer's shock, the tractor had broken through what looked like top of an underground cavity. Hearing about this unusual find, researchers came to investigate and were surprised to find a tunnel nearly 2m high by almost 2m wide and about 15m long running across the field and right under the farmer's house. Deep claw marks embedded into the walls indicated its past occupant was not human.
The farmer had stumbled upon a puzzling subject in palaeontology that is still unfolding today. He'd uncovered a megafauna paleoburrow, a prehistoric tunnel dug through rock by what Luiz Carlos Weinschutz, a geologist and one of the scientists who visited the farmer's property, concluded was the work of a giant ground sloth or giant armadillo from at least 10,000 years ago.
These giant ground sloths, described in one paper as "a hamster the size of an elephant", were far removed from today's unhurried, tree-dwelling ones. They grew up to 4m long and walked on all fours, although research suggests some could stand and move bipedally. Almost 100 different species of sloths roamed the Americas between 15 million to 10,000 years ago alongside car-sized giant armadillos that also dug long tunnels through rocks in Brazil.
Esteban De Armas/Alamy
Giant ground sloths that grew up to 4m and could stand on two legs once roamed the Americas (Credit: Esteban De Armas/Alamy)
I had first heard about paleoburrows when I saw a report in 2015 about the discovery of a 100m-long tunnel dug by giant sloths in the northern state of Rondônia, the first to be found in the Amazon rainforest. Yet it was during a holiday in the opposite end of Brazil a few years later that I had the chance to visit one in real life.
How to visit Brazilian paleoburrows The Southern Canyons Paths Geopark has several paleoburrows that are open to the public. They are accessible via hiking and are sign-posted: - The Engenho Velho paleoburrow complex is found in the Jacinto Machado municipality (1.5 hour return hike). - The Toca do Tatu paleoburrow, where visitors can see rock art, is found in the Timbé do Sul municipality along the Portal do Palmiro hike. Along the same route are the Três Barras paleoburrows in the Morro Grande municipality. (4-hour return hike) Tip: It's advisable to hire an experienced guide who can provide safety equipment such as helmets, protective clothing, masks and gloves. Contact the park directly for further information.
During this trip, I visited the Southern Canyons Path Geopark that spreads across the states of Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul, home to several paleoburrows. After an hour trek through a forest-clad canyon in the state of Santa Catarina, I reached my destination: a 2m-high tunnel carved into a large, weathered rock. Inside it was dark and cool, the curved surfaces buffed smooth from many millennia of coarse sloth hair rubbing against it. Distinctive long claw marks criss-crossed the walls. It felt like walking into an oversized rabbit warren.
Heinrich Theodor Frank, a geologist by profession and paleoburrow expert at heart, told me that upon entering any one of these tunnels, "you find an open book. You see, you feel that this was not made by humans." He was right.
Most paleoburrows nowadays are filled with sediments, although some remain completely or partially clear, such as the one I had visited and the one the farmer had uncovered. The farmer's 2009 discovery came at the beginning of a surge of interest in paleoburrows, after hundreds were identified in southern and south-eastern Brazil. In the last 15 years, more than 1,500 have been recorded in this region, clinching it the title of having the highest concentration of megafauna paleoburrows in the world.
Nobody knows for sure why the south of Brazil has so many. Most are in the states of Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul, but Minas Gerais, another southern state, boasts some remarkable examples, including a 340m-long paleoburrow and a collection of six 40m-long tunnels that lead to 10m-wide by 4m-high chambers. In June this year, this site – the largest paleoburrow in the state – was brought under official protection to safeguard it from human activity.
Heinrich Theodore Frank
Claw marks in the tunnels helped scientists conclude that they were made by ground sloths and giant armadillos (Credit: Heinrich Theodore Frank)
A handful of paleoburrows can be found across South America, although none have been recorded in North America. "It's something that has no logical explanation because the megafauna roamed across the continent. You should have tunnels in other places," said Frank.
It's something that has no logical explanation because the megafauna roamed across the continent
Some experts say that the concentration of paleoburrows in Brazil's south is simply because the region is a hub for palaeontology research. Others disagree, pointing to geographical evolution influencing different behaviours among species across the Americas, which at the time of megafauna was up to 10C colder than now and much drier.
For many years, locals and researchers believed the tunnels had been constructed by past civilisations and the claw marks were assumed to be the work of a pickaxe. Some paleoburrows contain rock art, such as the Toca do Tatu ("Armadillo Burrow") in the state of Santa Catarina, which appears to have a sun with rays radiating out and groups of triangles representing mountains engraved on its walls. But because the art is carved into the rocks and not painted, dating it is almost impossible, said archaeologist Lizete Dias de Oliveira. No-one knows for sure who made the rock carvings and what they mean.
Regional Indigenous communities likely knew of the paleoburrows' existence before they were scientifically identified, evidenced by the tunnels featured in their oral stories. The Kaingang people, who come from Rio Grande do Sul, tell of a legend that a giant flood forced their ancestral fathers to swim to the hilly peaks where they eventually dug their way through the mountains for shelter. Other tales from the Kaingang suggest they knew the burrows were made by megafauna. A folktale for children involves the story of a family that descended into a hole made by an armadillo to enjoy the abundance of food there, only to have their rope cut by a "white man" (a native name for a non-Indigenous person) who took over the land while they remained underground.
Heinrich Theodore Frank
The Toca do Tatu ("Armadillo Burrow") in the state of Santa Catarina has rock art on the walls (Credit: Heinrich Theodore Frank)
The exact storyline of the myths varies, but for the Kaingang people, the accuracy is less important than the story itself. "For the Kaingang people, there are no myths because everything that is told by the older Indigenous people is considered true," wrote Cláudia Aresi in a research paper for the Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul about the cultural and territory transformations of the Kaingang people.
Another theory linked to the paleoburrows was that the tunnels held hidden riches left there by the Jesuits. It led to treasure-seekers ransacking caves for this supposed wealth, never finding anything more than dust and sediments. "Treasure hunters are a horror for archaeology. They disturb the soil and reverse it, so what is newer becomes older and what is older becomes more recent," Oliveira said, adding that this complicates studying sediments for additional clues that could reveal more about these tunnels.
You have to look for animals that have claws, then you only have two options: the giant sloths and the giant armadillos
In the end, it was the claw marks that helped scientists conclude that these tunnels were made by megafauna, in particular ground sloths and giant armadillos. "We analysed the bones of the animals that lived in this region in the last two million years. Animals such as horses, sabretooth tigers, elephants, they did not dig. You have to look for animals that have claws, then you only have two options: the giant sloths and the giant armadillos," said Frank.
Weinschutz is currently 3D-mapping paleoburrows in Santa Catarina to try to spot patterns in the tunnels that could reveal the biomechanisms of digging such large constructions, as well as searching for traces of ancient fur to help identify the species that made them. "It's still a new study, there are years and years of research ahead in this area," he enthused.
Heinrich Theodore Frank
More than 1,500 paleoburrows have been recorded in southern and south-eastern Brazil in the last 15 years (Credit: Heinrich Theodore Frank)
The results may shed some light onto why these animals made such large tunnels. Most scientists propose that it was for nursing young, regulating body temperatures or even hibernation, although the exact reason remains a mystery. Experts suspect that each tunnel was made over the course of centuries or even thousands of years, suggesting that the sloths and armadillos lived in social family groups. "Each generation did a little more, so after all those years, they created one big cave," Frank said.
The megafauna, both the giant armadillos and giant sloths, must have "developed an absurd strength in their arms" to be able to cut through rock and tough sediments that even a pickaxe would struggle to pierce, said Weinschutz. Intrigued, I visited the Museum of Earth Sciences in Rio de Janeiro to see the skeleton of a fossilised sloth and get a sense of its size. Its elongated skull was the size of horse and its curved claw covered my outstretched hand.
As I held the claw, my thoughts went back to the paleoburrow I'd visited with the deep scratches in the wall, the true treasures of these ancient homes. Even though the ground sloths and giant armadillos of the past have long gone, their stories remain forever marked in the south of Brazil, bringing to life a world so mysterious to us today.
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The powerful women of an ancient empire
By Lina Zeldovich Features correspondent
PHOTO 24/Getty images
The powerful women of the Silk Road (Credit: PHOTO 24/Getty images)
With no cities or courts, the formidable and nomadic Xiongnu kingdom sent princess emissaries to control its frontiers.
The raiders came from the north. They came on horseback, the skilled bowmen shooting powerful arrows with expert precision. They ruined and burned the crops, which the Han Chinese villagers living on China's northern frontiers in about 200 BCE tended to with great attention. The Han Chinese called the invaders "Xiongnu", which meant "fierce slave", a pejorative term aimed to emphasise the barbarians' "inferiority".
In reality, however, the Xiongnu outperformed their Chinese neighbours in military expertise and political organisation. Comprised of different ethnic tribes, the Xiongnu were the world's first nomadic empire, well-organised and formidable enough to cause so much trouble to the Han Chinese that the latter eventually resolved to build the Great Wall of China. More interestingly, behind the fierce bowmen, it was the powerful Xiongnu women who helped hold the empire together.
Piecing together the Xiongnu's curious history has been a challenge because despite their high organisation and military prowess, the nation never developed a written language. "So the majority of facts we know about Xiongnu come from their graveyards and their enemies," said Christina Warinner, a group leader in the Department of Archaeogenetics at the Max Planck Institute.
And the graveyards tell an interesting story, as a recent study has proven that a surprisingly high number of elite Xiongnu burials hold female remains.
Chester Voyage/Alamy
A surprisingly high number of elite Xiongnu burials hold female remains (Credit: Chester Voyage/Alamy)
Archaeologists excavating Xiongnu burial sites across Mongolia have long posited that remains in some of the richest and most elaborate graves were female. However, it was only when genetic sequencing technologies finally came of age a few years ago that Warinner's Max Planck team was able to confirm the female gender of several elite burials with absolute certainty, publishing their study findings in the journal Science in April 2023.
"Our genetic findings prove that the elite princesses played important roles in the Xiongnu society, politically and economically," said Jamsranjav Bayarsaikhan, who heads the Research Centre at the National Museum of Mongolia in Ulaanbaatar and is a project coordinator at the Max Planck Institute for Geoanthropology in Germany.
These findings have changed scientists' perspective on how Xiongnu expanded their territory and held their nomadic empire together, and the important role their women played in politics and economy.
We may think of empires as stationary entities that build cities, palaces and courts to maintain their rule, but some nomadic kingdoms were incredibly robust. Predating the famed Genghis Khan empire by about 1,000 years, the Xiongnu empire lasted from the 2nd Century BCE to the late 1st Century CE and occupied the territory of modern-day Mongolia with its northern borders stretching all the way to Lake Baikal in today's Russia.
Besides being skilled warriors, Xiongnu were also avid purveyors of luxury goods, which they acquired from across Eurasia through the trading routes of the ancient Silk Road – including Chinese silks, Roman glass and Egyptian beads. The elite Xiongnu women held important positions in society and were involved in politics. In a way, Xiongnu women were the virtual glue – or perhaps the silk ties – that held together the roaming kingdom, which didn't have permanent cities or brick-and-mortar fixtures to assert its presence.
"Xiongnu women held great imperial power along the frontier, often holding exclusive noble ranks, maintaining Xiongnu traditions, and engaging in both steppe power politics and the Silk Road networks," said Bryan Miller, assistant professor of archaeology at the University of Michigan, US, also on the Max Planck team. "They were highly respected."
"These burials of women often have grave goods in them that are symbols of power and leadership," added Warinner.
At the elite cemetery of Takhiltyn Khotgor, located in the Mankhan district of Khovd province in western Mongolia, the researchers found monumental tombs clearly built to honour the women. Resting in elaborate coffins decorated with Xiongnu's imperial symbols of golden sun and moon, each female was surrounded by a host of commoner males placed in simple graves. One tomb contained six horses and a chariot.
janetteasche/Alamy
The ability to ride horses and shoot the bow was one of the Xiongnu's main skills (Credit: janetteasche/Alamy)
At the nearby Shombuuzyn Belchir cemetery, women similarly occupied the wealthiest graves, accompanied by luxury items of their earthly life, including Chinese mirrors, silk clothing, wooden carts, faience beads and animal offerings.
The tombs look like upside-down pyramids with rectangular bases above ground (archaeologists call them terraces) that narrow as they protrude into the earth. "When you excavate it, it's basically shaped like an inverted pyramid that leads up to 20m down into the ground," explained Ursula Brosseder, a prehistorical archaeologist at the Leibniz Center for Archaeology in Germany (who wasn't part of the Max Plank study).
While the Xiongnu funeral sites are mostly scattered across remote parts of Mongolia, some are possible to visit; the most accessible is Noyon Mountain (Noyon Uul), 100km north of Ulaanbaatar. Here, you can see the terraces – rectangular bases above ground with their perimeters outlined by low stone hedges – though the graves are filled in at the end of every dig season to prevent people and animals from falling in.
Archaeologists have also found ornamental belts in Xiongnu's burials, another type of artefact indicating high societal status. Decorated with large plaques and adorned with beads and stone pendants, they look "like Christmas trees with everything hanging down from the waist", said Brosseder. "A belt is a very important symbol of status and rank, but it [typically] belongs to the male sphere and not to the female sphere," she explained. "What is really interesting is that only the Xiongnu in this time period gave the belts to the women and not so much to the men."
agefotostock/Alamy
Only the Xiongnu in this time period gave the belts to the women (Credit: agefotostock/Alamy)
The ability to ride horses and shoot the bow was one of the Xiongnu's main skills. "Some people call horses the ships of the land, because ships and horses were some of the fastest travel that existed prior to industrialisation," said Warinner. The Xiongnu domesticated the horses, which were native to the steppe, and they also learned to shoot the bow while riding, so they were dangerous at both far and near distance. The Han Chinese were of no match to them. "Even when they built the Great Wall of China, it never worked," Warriner said. "The Xiongnu just rode around it."
Xiongnu women drew the bow and rode horses too, but whether any followed men into the battle is less clear. Some female graves contained equestrian equipment, but researchers can't tell with certainty whether women fought alongside men. "I think we should not exclude that there were also warrior women," said Brosseder. "It doesn't mean that all the women participated in the army," she added, "but they definitely could horse ride and also shoot the bow, just for the normal purposes of having a better life at the steppe."
Genetic research helped Max Planck's team discover another interesting fact. The women buried at the empire frontiers near China were genetically very different from the surrounding Xiongnu population. Instead, they were closely related to a man thought to be one of Xiongnu kings, whose grave was excavated in 2013 in central Mongolia.
John De Mello/Alamy
The Han Chinese were of no match to the Xiongnu (Credit: John De Mello/Alamy)
The team believes that the king married his female relatives to the frontier clans to strengthen political alliances and keep the empire strong. "We think that the king was sending his daughters to control the rural parts of the empire, politically and economically," said Bayarsaikhan. There, they acted as emissaries and maintained contacts with the Silk Road trade networks. "So, it was an important practice," he said, adding that these Xiongnu traditions laid the foundations for the success of the future Mongolian empire. When building his own nomadic kingdom, Genghis Khan followed the Xiongnu "marriage playbook": Mongolian queens, who ruled a millennia later, were well-known for their political powers, Bayarsaikhan said.
One may think that the women were just pawns in the male-dominated empire-building schemes, but the rich burial sites speak of the opposite, said Miller. "If the women were just pawns, their own modest burials would be next to their lavishly decorated husbands, but that's not the case. These women were part of powerful marriage alliances and kept the whole empire together cohesively. They were highly honoured and highly decorated."
CPA Media Pte Ltd/Alamy
The ability to ride horses and shoot the bow was one of the Xiongnu's main skills (Credit: CPA Media Pte Ltd/Alamy)
Were Xiongnu unique in embracing a different set of gender rules? Not necessarily. On the contrary, the findings show that we "shouldn't expand the Victorian era mindset about the roles of women to all cultures throughout history," explained Miller, who is working on a book about Xiongnu and their culture. "I'm hoping that people may realise women actually had a lot of power in pre-modern societies," he said.
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What did Stonehenge sound like?
By Anna Muckerman Features correspondent
funkyfood London - Paul Williams/Alamy
What did Stonehenge sound like? (Credit: funkyfood London - Paul Williams/Alamy)
New research into the prehistoric site's acoustical properties is revealing that the stone circle may have been used for exclusive ceremonies.
Through the doors of a university building, down a concrete hallway and inside a foam-covered room stands a shin-high replica of one of the most mysterious monuments ever built: Stonehenge.
These miniature standing stones aren't on public display, although they might help give the million annual visitors who come to the real site a better understanding of the imposing, lichen-covered stone structure built roughly 5,000 years ago. Instead, this scale model is at the centre of ongoing research into Stonehenge's acoustical properties, and what its sound might tell us about its purpose.
"We know that the acoustics of places influence how you use them, so understanding the sound of a prehistoric site is an important part of the archaeology," said Trevor Cox, professor and acoustics researcher at the University of Salford in Manchester.
Andrew Brooks
Professor Trevor Cox believes that understanding Stonehenge's acoustical properties could shed light on its mysterious use (Credit: Andrew Brooks)
Despite being the world's best-known and most architecturally sophisticated ancient stone circle, archaeologists still don't know who built Stonehenge or what it was used for. Some theories suggest it was used as a burial site, a place of healing or even a celestial calendar, given that the gaps in the outer stone ring are in perfect alignment with the summer and winter solstice. Yet as the decades pass, this massive monument built on a grassy hill in the Wiltshire countryside remains a mystery.
"We're gradually finding out more and more about it, but some things we just don't think we'll ever be able to find out. We have no way of understanding why people started to build it, and the reason that they continued to work on it may well have changed over the hundreds of years it took to complete," said Susan Martindale, volunteer manager for English Heritage, the charitable trust that manages Stonehenge.
Thanks to Cox's recent studies, however, we now know a fascinating detail about one of the world's most enigmatic sites: it once acted as a giant echo chamber, amplifying sounds made inside the circle to those standing within, but shielding noise from those standing outside the circle. This finding has led some to ponder whether the monument was actually constructed as a ritual site for a small and elite group.
This breakthrough is a decade in the making. While researching "the sonic wonders of the world" 10 years ago, Cox began to ponder whether studying the acoustical properties of Stonehenge may help uncover some of its secrets. "I realised there was a technique in acoustics that had never been applied to prehistoric sites before, and that was acoustic scale modelling," he said. "I'm the first to make a scale model of Stonehenge or any prehistoric stone site."
VIDEO: What did Stonehenge sound like?
Cox set out to create a 1:12 scale replica that he could test inside the university's semi-anechoic chamber, a room that absorbs virtually all sound, thanks to the geometric foam covering every surface except the floor. To create the replica, Cox first received a computer model from English Heritage, allowing him to better understand what Stonehenge looked like at its fullest configuration, around 4,000 years ago.
"If you go down to modern Stonehenge, it's a magnificent site, but a lot of the stones are missing or lying on the floor," he said. "This [configuration] is one particular arrangement. Actually, from about 2000 BCE onwards, it changed a lot for about a millennium."
In total, the process of creating 157 stones through 3D printing and moulding techniques took about six months to complete. During that time, Cox said his dining room floor was covered with bits and pieces of the project in a laborious effort to achieve the qualities of real stones at scale.
Once the stones were painted grey and arranged in the correct distribution according to the computer model, the challenges of the testing process began. "Everything's a twelfth of the size in real life, and that means we have to test at 12 times the frequency," he said. "You have to get all the loudspeakers and microphones that work at those frequency ranges and they're not commonly available."
Andrew Brooks
Cox has recreated a 1:12 scale replica of how Stonehenge once appeared (Credit: Andrew Brooks)
To complete each test, Cox and his team placed the loudspeakers around the stones and played the various frequencies they were interested in measuring. The microphones in the room collected data on how the stones affected the sound. Through mathematical processing, Cox was able to create a computer model that simulates the acoustic properties of Stonehenge and can distort voices or music to give a sense of what they would sound like within the circle. The results surprised him: although Stonehenge has no roof or floor, sound bounces between the gaps in the stones and lingers within the space. In acoustics, lingering sound is known as reverberation.
"We know that music is improved by reverberation, so we would imagine if music was played, it would just sound a little bit more powerful and impactful within the circle," he said.
One of the most notable findings from Cox's research is the effect of the stones on the directionality of the voice. In an open, natural environment, like the grassy hill Stonehenge is built on, a speaker facing away from a listener would only be understood about one-third of the time. The reflections from the stones at Stonehenge would have amplified the voice by four decibels, bringing the number of sentences understood to 100%.
These results showed that Stonehenge would have allowed people inside the circle to hear each other quite well, while those outside would have been excluded from any ceremonies taking place. Cox's research adds to a growing body of evidence that Stonehenge may have been used for rituals reserved for a select few, with one study even pointing to the possibility of a hedge grown to shield the view from those not participating.
Andrew Brooks
Cox has found that Stonehenge once acted as an echo chamber, leading some to believe it was a ritual site for those belonging to an elite inner circle (Credit: Andrew Brooks)
"The research definitely gives more information about how Stonehenge might be used. Even if you turn away, there's always stone reflections to reinforce your voice, so it doesn't really matter if you can't see the person talking. It would be quite good for speech communication," he said.
Cox likens Stonehenge's acoustical properties to the difference between standing in an empty cinema as opposed to a cathedral. Although those of us used to going in and out of buildings might not find the difference very discernible, Cox notes that the late Neolithic people who built Stonehenge and weren't used to the acoustics of large walls and enclosed spaces would have likely found the effect mesmerising.
After Cox published his initial findings in 2020, he and his colleagues began to tackle new questions, such as how people inside the circle might change the acoustics. The team recently finished a new set of measurements by placing up to 100 small, wooden figurines around the model.
"We know that people being inside would have changed the acoustics because we absorb sound," he said. "We want to quantify how it might have changed as more people went inside the circle, because presumably there were people inside the circle during the ceremonies."
marc zakian/Alamy
Cox's findings suggest Stonehenge may have been used for important ceremonies (Credit: marc zakian/Alamy)
This latest research also takes a closer look at how listeners hear sounds coming from different angles, since whether sound reaches people from the side or front changes how we perceive it. For example, sound reflections from the side improve the quality of music in a concert hall. Once Cox analyses his new set of data, he hopes to publish the findings later this year.
Cox acknowledges that unanswered questions about the real Stonehenge make it difficult for him to draw definitive conclusions from his work with the scale model. Instead, he sees the acoustics research as another tool to find more clues and build a clearer picture of the site's qualities.
The problem with acoustic archaeology is that sound disappears, so we can't ever be certain about what was done there
"If we think about human ceremonies, they usually involve some form of sound, whether that's music or speaking or chanting. And we know that if they really wanted to be heard, people should have been inside the circle," he said. "Now, the problem with acoustic archaeology is that sound disappears, so we can't ever be certain about what was done there."
Although Cox's day-to-day work focuses on improving sound for those with hearing loss, he now regularly fields requests to discuss his Stonehenge research.
"One of the things about working on it is you realise how powerful it is to people, how people really connect with it and how people are fascinated by anything to do with Stonehenge," he said. "I think that creates a mystique for the amazing ability of our ancestors to create the most astonishing monuments."
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The true story behind the US' first federal monuments
By Barbara Noe Kennedy Features correspondent
gregobagel/Getty Images
(Credit: gregobagel/Getty Images)
The most famous African American in colonial America is largely forgotten today, but his longest-lasting contributions are hidden in plain sight in Washington DC.
"Are you sitting down? I have news for you." Gwen Marable's cousin from the US state of Ohio called her at home in Maryland about 27 years ago. "We are descended from the sister of Benjamin Banneker, Jemima."
The Banneker family, which numbers over 5,000 known descendants today, only learned about this astonishing connection to their ground-breaking but little-known ancestor through the wonders of DNA testing. As such, no personal stories about him, no artifacts, were handed down through the generations.
"Remember, he was born one year apart from George Washington," said Marable, who went on to help launch and serve as president of the Benjamin Banneker Historical Park and Museum in Baltimore County, Maryland. "People were not writing about black people at that time."
What we do know is that this self-taught, free African American tobacco planter was, among other things, a mathematician, scientist and astronomer who helped establish the boundaries of Washington DC. To this day, nearly all 40 of those boundary stones – which mark the original 10-mile-by-10-mile diamond shape of the US capital city – remain in plain sight. They are the oldest set of federally placed monuments in the United States.
In 1790, the brand-new president George Washington was authorised to delineate the site of the new capital city along the Potomac River. It was swampland overgrown with forests, vines and weeds, sparsely settled with tobacco farms. He needed a survey team to establish its boundaries.
Zip Lexing/Alamy Stock Photo
The boundary stones mark the original 10-mile-by-10-mile diamond shape of the US capital city (Credit: Zip Lexing/Alamy Stock Photo)
Enter the foremost surveyor at the time, Andrew Ellicott, who had made a name for himself charting 11 states (and making the first topographical study of the Niagara River and Niagara Falls). But he needed an assistant who could read the stars, to make the placement of the markers as accurate as possible.
His cousin recommended a neighbour friend, Benjamin Banneker, but according to historian Silvio Bedini (who wrote what is considered the definitive biography of Banneker), Ellicott had some concerns. "Andrew Ellicott questioned the potential competence of a black man without schooling or scientific training," Bedini explained in a 1991 article for the magazine of the DC History Center. "The prospect of relying upon an untrained amateur astronomer for the precise astronomical data upon which his survey would be based was not a cheerful one."
But with no other prospects, the two set to work.
Lying on his back for six nights, 61-year-old Banneker recorded the precise times of the stars' transits. With these calculations, the first stone marker was installed at Jones Point (on the Potomac River just south of modern-day Old Town Alexandria, Virginia) on April 15, 1791, amid great fanfare.
The Washington Post/Getty Images
Many of the boundary stones are on people's property, and several are in parks (Credit: The Washington Post/Getty Images)
Today, that marker is visible through a window in the seawall of the 19th-Century Jones Point Lighthouse. One foot square and three feet high, it – like all of the markers – was made from the same sandstone from Virginia's Aquia Creek that was used to construct the White House, US Capitol and Supreme Court Building.
From there, the other markers were placed one mile apart. Each is numbered according to its quadrant and location, starting at the south cornerstone at Jones Point (SW1, for example, is Southwest 1, located in DC's south-west quadrant).
Each of the four sides of each marker bears the inscription of either "Virginia" or "Maryland", depending on its border state; the words "Jurisdiction of the United States" and a mile number; the year "1791" or "1792" depending on when the stone was added; and the magnetic compass variance at that place. They reside inside ornate black cages that the Daughters of the American Revolution organisation installed in the early 20th Century. Thirty-six original stones remain in place, in various states of deterioration (sandstone was not the best material, it turns out), while three are replicas and one is a plaque.
Most Washingtonians have no idea what these stones are, even though they pass by them every day. But some people make a pilgrimage to visit them, providing a fascinating exploration of DC's varied neighbourhoods. Many are on people's property, and several are in parks. You'll find them in the middle of a roadway median, in a cemetery and at the base of a water tower. (Note that land seized by the Federal government in 1790 was returned to Virginia in 1846, so the stones don't reflect DC's modern, reduced border.)
Barbara Noe Kennedy
Each marker bears an inscription including "Jurisdiction of the United States" and "1791" or "1792", depending on the year it was added (Credit: Barbara Noe Kennedy)
"[Marker] NE4 is pristine with great engraving," said Stephen Powers, a civil engineer and co-chair of the Nation's Capital Boundary Stones Committee.
NW4 and NW5 are also pristine. "But they're behind the US Army Corps of Engineers' property line," Powers said. "You have to call to gain access."
The most difficult one to reach is SE9. "You have to park on the highway and use GPS coordinates as you make your way through the woods, down by the Potomac River," he explained. "There's no path."
It's not known if Banneker attended the Jones Point event in 1791 celebrating the south cornerstone, since his name is not noted in newspaper accounts. Chances are, he was a spectator.
Regardless, a few months later, he wrote a letter to Secretary of State Thomas Jefferson about his work on the boundary stones. "Jefferson had been saying publicly that he didn't believe black people and enslaved people were of the same standards as white people in terms of brains and physical abilities," said historian Jane Levey, interim editor of the DC History Center's Washington History magazine. "Banneker basically goes on about how he needs to change public opinion about black people's abilities."
Fotosearch/Getty Images
Banneker was a mathematician, scientist and astronomer who also published six farmers' almanacs (Credit: Fotosearch/Getty Images)
"He writes to Jefferson saying he freely and clearly acknowledges he's of the African race," said Audrey Davis, director of the Alexandria Black History Museum. "He had a pride in his race and of his colour. He was a mathematical genius, a clockmaker, and he was interested in riddles." He also published six farmers' almanacs, using scientific methods. "He was a renaissance man."
Jefferson replied: "Nobody wishes more than I do to see such proofs as you exhibit, that nature has given to our black brethren, talents equal to those of the other colours of men, and that the appearance of a want of them is owing merely to the degraded condition of their existence both in Africa and America."
Whether the exchange altered Jefferson's stance on his views of African Americans and slavery, Banneker was the only black man to challenge the future president's suspicion of inequality during his lifetime.
Banneker died not long after, at the age of 74 in 1806. He never married and had no children. Even though personal connections were lost until the recent shock to Banneker family descendants delivered by DNA testing, his scientific contributions to the US are remarkable and steadfast.
But it's the crumbling boundary stones still gracing the Capital City that provide a daily reminder of Banneker's contributions to anyone paying attention as they walk by.
Rediscovering America is a BBC Travel series that tells the inspiring stories of forgotten, overlooked or misunderstood aspects of the US, flipping the script on familiar history, cultures and communities.
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The city with gold in its sewage lines
By Ramsha Zubairi Features correspondent
Xavier Galiana/Getty Images
(Credit: Xavier Galiana/Getty Images)
Firozabad is India's glass capital, most famous for producing traditional glass bangles. But the city is the source of another treasure – one that's hidden and extremely hard-won.
"He burned the sari and from it, handed us a thin slice of pure silver," said my mother, describing a moment that had taken place 30 years ago at her home in the city of Firozabad. The man in her story was no magician, but an extractor. Like many similar artisans in my mother's hometown, he'd go door to door collecting old saris to mine them for their precious metals.
Until the 1990s, saris were often threaded with pure silver and gold, and I remember digging into my mother's wardrobe, searching for her glittery outfits like treasure. But as she told me, the extractors were looking for something even more valuable than clothing – they were looking for trash, and a kind of trash specific to this city.
So now, to learn more about that seemingly mystical transfiguration of extraction, I was driving back to Firozabad, a city overshadowed by the nearby Taj Mahal (45km west) and better known for being India's capital of glass bangles than for its precious metals. But as I found out, for some industrious artisans, the city was nothing less than a gold mine – a place where the precious metal once trickled through the sewers.
Founded in 1354 CE by the sultan of Delhi, Firoz Shah Tughlaq, Firozabad was built as a palace city that, according to court historian Shams-i-Siraj's writings, was twice the size of the walled city of Shahjahanbad (today's Old Delhi, devised by the same ruler who built the Taj Mahal). According to Rana Safvi, historian and author of The Forgotten Cities of Delhi, it was "used as a prototype for later Mughal-era fortresses, as this was the first time the concept of a Diwan-e-Aam [audience hall] for the public and a Diwan-e-Khas [private audience hall] for the nobles was introduced."
While Safvi notes that very few traces of that old city remain, I saw that today's Firozabad has its own type of grandeur. As I drove into the city, almost every lane was a kaleidoscope of pushcarts and trucks loaded with colourful glass bangles of every shade glimmering under the morning sun. The bracelets hold a significant place in Indian tradition, symbolising prosperity and good fortune for married women and new brides, who may wear stacks of them on each arm. With approximately 150 glass bangle factories today, it's no wonder Firozabad has earned the nicknames City of Glass and City of Bangles.
Xavier Galiana/Getty Images
The bracelets hold a significant place in Indian tradition, symbolising prosperity and good fortune for married women and new brides (Credit: Xavier Galiana/Getty Images)
The craft goes back at least 200 years. One theory is that several of Firoz Shah's attendees were migrants from Rajasthan who specialised in this jewellery form. They taught it to local artists, and as time went on, the industry expanded to the production of glass bottles and chandeliers, the latter of which was in high demand by the kingdom's royal courts and nobles.
As bans on foreign imports were implemented after World War One and World War Two, the glass industry of Firozabad experienced a drastic growth. After India's Independence in 1947, it soon became India's leading glass – and bangle – supplier, and today accounts for approximately 70% of the country's glass production.
Which is why it was so surprising to me that after several trips to the city and discussions with locals and residents involved with the glass industry, I learned that Firozabad creates another precious commodity, one that only emerges after the bangles are made: gold.
Ramsha Zubairi
The craft of making glass bangles goes back at least 200 years (Credit: Ramsha Zubairi)
Traditionally, glass bangles produced in the city were decorated with pure gold polish. This meant that many other items used during the process came into contact with the precious metal: the bottles and containers filled with polish, the fabric scraps used for buffing, the baskets that held the refined bangles, and even bits of broken bracelets themselves. This gold-coated waste from bangle factories and workshops, and from the homes of the craftsmen, was often disposed of in the city's sewage pipelines, essentially creating a secret stream of potential wealth. Once collected and cleaned, this waste was mined to extract the metal.
"For those oblivious, these materials are nothing more than trash," said Mohammad Sultan, who owns a jewellery store in Firozabad. "But those familiar with the metal know the true value of this 'trash'."
Sultan himself has worked as a gold extractor for more than 25 years, and explained that the technique of wresting the metal from these discards is presently known by only a handful of artists – and that it varies depending on the item.
"The disposed bottles of gold are left in a bucket of thinner or turpentine for a few hours to remove the gold residues," Sultan explained. "The residue sets on the surface of the thinner and is then wiped off with a piece of fabric, which is allowed to dry and is finally burned to ashes. After this, the ashes, with the addition of a few chemicals, are set on a thick layer of sand on a stove or heater, which is allowed to heat until the ashes turn into liquid. Once the liquid cools down, it transforms to the glass leaving behind the gold residues which now rests below the sand."
Xavier Galiana/Getty Images
Traditionally, glass bangles produced in the city were decorated with pure gold polish (Credit: Xavier Galiana/Getty Images)
"It takes a lot of patience and learning to master the art, and it is certainly not something that can be learned in a week's time," Sultan said, adding that it took him a few years before he could extract the metal on his own.
Once extracted, the gold is sold off to jewellers. Over the years, the city has witnessed extractors from humble backgrounds – but with an exceptional metier for the craft, hard work and a touch of luck – rewrite their fortunes. "The craft has turned several into millionaires," said Mohammad Kasim Shafi, another gold extractor in Firozabad.
Though there are no documented records of the craft's history, locals who learned it from their parents or grandparents estimate it may have been in practice for the past 80 years or more. However, gold prices have surged in recent times, and the polish has largely been substituted with less expensive chemicals. So, although the skill has been passed down through generations, it is slowly fading away.
"Since extracting gold is a work of precision and exceptional skill, the practice, even before the substitution of the metal, was known by limited people," said Shafi. "But when bangles began to be polished and designed with other chemicals, the shortage of gold naturally led to the eclipse of the craft."
Ramsha Zubairi
With approximately 150 glass bangle factories today, Firozabad has earned the nicknames City of Glass and City of Bangles (Credit: Ramsha Zubairi)
Though the use of gold has considerably decreased in the industry, some still incorporate it into their bracelets. Walking down the market streets of Firozabad, I passed through several workshops where workers were engrossed in making or decorating bracelets, some using pure gold polish.
The next day, as I sat in a cab to return home, I realised how different the city looked to me now that I knew its secret. My mother's memories of throw-away items transformed into precious metals had a new depth now that I'd heard the tales of Firozabad's treasure-hunting gold extractors of past and present. Together, they wove a story that turned a city I thought I knew into one with a little-known layer of history streaming just under the surface.
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Schmilka: The progressive German town stuck in the past
By David Perry Features correspondent
David Perry
(Credit: David Perry)
This picturesque village exists in a time warp that takes visitors back centuries – but the principles that keep the town alive are as forward-thinking as they come.
The half-timbered houses, the isolated location deep in eastern Germany's forested hinterlands, the eerie rock pinnacles bounding the town on one side and the tempestuous Elbe River on the other – throw in an evil witch and Schmilka would be straight out of a 19th-Century Brothers Grimm fairy tale. Or, at least, of that age: the buildings go back around two centuries, the food and beer are prepared using techniques just as old, and I had to run up and down the town's one street (cobblestoned, of course) to find a wi-fi signal. Talk about a time warp.
"Schmilka used to be a holiday village 200 years ago," said Andrea Bigge, a local art historian. It is again, she added, but it still feels like it exists in that era.
"You have time here," added guest-house proprietor Ansgar Rieger. "No schedules, no lists. You come to Schmilka to 'do nothing'."
A day trip from Dresden, Schmilka lies just barely within the German border with Czechia. It was founded around 1582 by Czech lumberjacks – the town's name even comes from a Slavic word meaning "a place where timber is harvested". Pitch-makers taking advantage of the local spruce trees and ferrymen working the Elbe soon followed, and by 1665, the hamlet had become more substantial. People seeking a country escape appeared in the 1800s, but Schmilka never got much beyond a rural backwater enclave.
So it was a bit of a head-scratcher to me that this barely-there townlet is one of the most respected wellness retreats in Saxony, one of its most sustainable and organic communities, as well as one of the state's most beautiful villages. The food in Schmilka's restaurants, the beer from its brewery, the bread in its bakery, even the furniture in its hotels and guesthouses are prepared with sustainability at the forefront. The mill still uses water to grind its grain on millstones, the brewery uses 200-year-old techniques, and the buildings, all original, are made of stone, wood and daub. Plus its wellness offerings draw on old traditions like saunas and baths, and lean heavily on the surrounding outdoors for experiences like nature walks. I thought I had fallen down the rabbit hole; Schmilka looks, feels, sounds and even tastes the way it did centuries ago.
While locals seem to love this way of life – and the town owes its survival to it – Schmilka's present-day success can be largely attributed to one man.
David Perry
Schmilka’s brewery looks much like it did 200 years ago (Credit: David Perry)
Entrepreneur Sven-Eric Hitzer fell in love with Schmilka as a rock-climbing youth during the East German regime. "It was just a border clearance [town] then, but the wilderness was wonderful," he said. "In the '90s, I came back to Schmilka to spend time in nature with my family. I bought a house with the intention of having a place to stay when we came here. Then another and…"
And he couldn't buy them fast enough; Hitzer discovered his childhood playground was in trouble. After 41 years of austere communism and the economic slump immediately following German reunification, Schmilka, like so many rural towns in the old East Germany, was slipping into ruin. People moved away and houses were abandoned.
"It crashed," Bigge remembered.
"And it looked it," said town guide Christin Glaser.
Initially, Hitzer had no other agenda than preservation. But by 2007, inspired by advice from his wife, he formulated a plan to save not just a few houses but the whole town by turning Schmilka into a sustainable retreat. "We were all for it," said Bigge. "There was no pushback."
"It would give all of us a future," Rieger added.
But first, Hitzer had to glow-up Schmilka's negatives. The town is remote. It's tiny. Hardly anyone lives there. There are no schools or churches, and its location inside the Saxon Switzerland National Park puts a hard stop on any new construction. Technically speaking, Schmilka is not even its own municipality; it is the southernmost extension of the larger town of Bad Schandau downriver.
David Perry
Located in the narrow Elbe Valley, the village is crammed into a cleft that is at once dramatic and cosy (Credit: David Perry)
That said, it's not too difficult to paint a remote country town, situated in a park famed for hiking and mountain climbing, as an escape for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers.
Located in the narrow Elbe Valley, Schmilka is crammed into a cleft that is at once dramatic and cosy. Looking down the river at dusk, with the rock stacks of the Ore Mountains like a row of hands reaching up to pull the night down, I literally stopped in my tracks. I could see why Hitzer wanted to preserve this village.
"When a house becomes vacant, Hitzer buys it and refurbishes it," Glaser said, as we talked in the Mühlenstrube's beer garden. Nearby, hikers and visitors lounged with organic beer and sausages in the shade of a massive chestnut tree. She pointed to the water mill, explaining that it was a hotel during the East German tenure but Hitzer reverse-engineered it to grind grain, as it had 400 years ago. The brewery and bakery, too, were reverted to their initial purposes (and the mill provides ground wheat for both). Hotels like the Helvetia are old homes. Even the small handful of properties not part of Hitzer's project are jumping on the refurbishment bandwagon; the Die Burg Schöna, the guest house across the river that Rieger runs, was once part of a defunct sawmill compound.
Hitzer even found a benefit, albeit an indirect one, from the Elbe's notorious floods: the early townsfolk had built everything out of stone.
"It didn't take long for the town to figure that out, even in 1582, and things haven't changed since," Bigge said. "Look at the houses; all the half-timbers are on the second floor, away from floodwaters and where people here really live. All the houses here are made of stone."
It dawned on me, like it did Hitzer, that the biggest reason Schmilka looks so traditional is because it is – and there was no other option.
David Perry
In Schmilka, the beer, like the food, is all organic (Credit: David Perry)
Hitzer admitted his ideas evolved with time. For instance, even as he was buying up properties to turn Schmilka into a nature retreat, he had never thought of organic food as a business mandate until the day he went for a physical as part of a life-insurance application and "did not get a clean bill of health". It occurred to him that if organic fare was good for his well-being, it had to be so for others and could be applied on a larger scale at Schmilka.
"I decided that the food I eat should be free of toxins," he said. "Only later did I realise that healthily produced foods are also good for the environment. It's not just about me and my health, it's about sustainable business in general."
There are some grumbles, of course. Glaser mentioned that some residents, while not against Hitzer's idea, did not go green either. And some of the spin-doctoring has its limits; while modern Schmilka bills its limited wi-fi as a way for visitors to reconnect with nature and each other, Bigge and Glaser clued me in that this was Hitzer "making lemonade" with the fact that the valley has always interrupted phone signals.
David Perry
The mill still uses water to grind its grain on millstones (Credit: David Perry)
Being so close to nature, Schmilka is acutely impacted by it. "Schmilka has had to face some serious tests: floods, landslides, mudslides, Covid," Hitzer said, "and now forest fire. There were fires on the Czech side of the park in early August."
Yet Bigge, Glaser and Rieger agree that Schmilka now has something to fight for. They also agree that Hitzer turned Schmilka into a forward-thinking town with an ironically backward-looking philosophy; the town is not stuck in the past so much as it willingly walked back to it… with electricity and central heating, naturally. This is a spa town, after all.
"What we call 'sustainability' today was the way of life 200 years ago," Bigge said.
"We grow our own vegetables," Glaser added, explaining that sustainability, a passionately embraced concept in Germany, is not a touristy gimmick. "We recycle and use recycled materials. We utilise waste heat from the brewery and bakery for the town. Even our detergents are organic."
"What we call 'sustainability' today was the way of life 200 years ago"
The company Hitzer formed in 2007 now runs Schmilka as a business. What drew people to Schmilka centuries ago – the forests, the quiet – do so again. Hitzer positioned the town as a decompression chamber for the world-weary, an HQ for hikers and rock climbers, and a health and wellness retreat for people exhausted by Covid, all under the banner of sustainability practices and organic cuisine. And it works beautifully.
Sipping organic ale in the beer garden, serenaded by the creaking waterwheel of the mill and surrounded by pastel-coloured buildings – all restored to their historical glory – I found myself embracing the time warp. Hotels are booked, yoga and massage therapies lined up, and the influx of visitors constant. The town is alive and well.
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A Spanish town abandoned by mistake
By Nacho Larumbe Features correspondent
The medieval fortress town of Granadilla is a ghost town (Image credit: Pavel Dudek/Alamy)
In the 1960s, the Spanish government evicted a historical village that was supposed to get flooded by the waters of a new reservoir. Only it never did.
The medieval fortress town of Granadilla is a ghost town. Visitors can peek into empty rooms, wander along its walled-in streets and view the town from atop its castle. But no one lives there. Not since all the residents were kicked out in the 1960s.
Originally founded by Muslims in the 9th Century, Granadilla occupied a strategic spot that allowed its occupants to keep a watchful eye on the Ruta de la Plata, an ancient trade and travel route across the region.
Over the years, rule of the town changed hands, and today it's one of the few Spanish fortress villages where the ancient walls are still intact. But the community that lived here right up until the 1960s is not.
The end began back in the 1950s, during the dictatorship of Francisco Franco, when Spain embarked on massive project of building dams as a way to boost the economy during the period of isolation. The largest of these efforts was the Gabriel y Galán reservoir on the Alagón River, and in 1955, officials decreed that Granadilla was in the floodplain and therefore had to be evacuated.
Over the course of 10 years, from 1959 to 1969, all 1,000 residents were forcibly evicted, many relocated to colonisation settlements near the village. When the water started to rise in 1963, it covered all except one route into the village, turning it into a peninsula. But that's as high as the water got – the town itself never flooded. Nevertheless, the residents were not allowed to return.
The Spanish 'ghost town' that should be underwater
The experience was traumatic for locals, many of whom still carry their frustration. "It was a travesty," said Eugenio Jiménez, president of the Association Sons of Granadilla. "They kicked us out, claiming that the dam would flood the town, which was impossible because the town is higher than the dam. But those were times of dictatorship, and we had no rights. But what truly frustrates me is that during democratic times, I've been struggling for the recovery of Granadilla with the former children's association, and no government has listened to us."
Purificación Jiménez, a former resident, also recalled the difficulty of those years. "I remember that every time a family left the village, everyone came out to the entrance of the village to say goodbye and cried," she said.
Even today, villagers have not been allowed to reclaim their homes because the government maintains the flooding decree signed by Franco. However, visitors can and do come for day trips. The town was designated a Historic-Artistic Site in 1980 and is now run as a free, open-air museum (overseen by the Autonomous National Parks Agency). As for the residents, they and their descendants meet up twice a year back in town, on All Saints' Day (1 November) and the Day of the Assumption of Mary (15 August).
This video is part of BBC Reel's Forgotten Places playlist.
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The UK's deadliest garden
By Chris Griffiths Features correspondent
Established in 2005, the Poison Garden at the Alnwick Garden in Northumberland, England, is home to many toxic plants (Image credit: Design Pics Inc/Alamy)
The Poison Garden at the Alnwick Garden in Northumberland, England, is home to more than 100 toxic, intoxicating and narcotic plants. And it's open to public.
The sign on the black iron gate says, "These plants can kill", and it's emblazoned with a skull and crossbones for good measure. The warning isn't a joke – the plot sealed off behind these black iron bars is the deadliest garden in the world. And it's open to the public.
Established in 2005, the Poison Garden at the Alnwick Garden in Northumberland, England, is home to more than 100 toxic, intoxicating and narcotic plants. "Before visitors are allowed to enter, they must have a safety briefing," said Dean Smith, a guide at the Poison Garden. Visitors are instructed that they're not allowed to touch, taste or smell anything – nevertheless, as the website notes, guests have still occasionally fainted from inhaling toxic fumes as they walk through.
One of the dangerous plants cultivated here is monkshood, or wolf's bane, which contains aconitine, a neurotoxin and cardio toxin. But that's not the worst one: "Probably the most poisonous plant we actually have here is ricin [which contains the toxin ricin] better known as the castor bean or castor oil plant," Smith said. "The Guinness Book of World Records considers that to be the world's most poisonous plant."
Surprisingly, a lot of the things that grow in the garden are quite common. "Many of the plants in here do grow wild in the UK, and most of the plants are alarmingly easy to cultivate," Smith said. Even popular home-garden bushes like rhododendrons are accounted for here. Those leaves contain grayanotoxin which will attack a person's nervous system if eaten. "You're not likely to eat the leaves, though, because they taste disgusting," Smith said reassuringly.
And then there's the laburnum tree, the second most poisonous tree in the UK (only the yew tree is more dangerous). Many people have them around their homes because of their beautiful yellow flowers, but they contain a poison called cytisine. "The tree is so poisonous," said Smith, "that if one of the branches was to fall to the floor, lay there for several months and the dog later comes along, picks it up to hold as a stick on a walk, chances are the dog won't finish the walk. It's that poisonous."
The deadly plants hiding in your garden
Poison plants don't only direct their venom at humans and dogs, though. As Smith explained, if enough rhododendrons grow near each other, they'll poison the soil – making it so that the only things that can grow there are other rhododendrons. And if bees gather honey exclusively from rhododendrons, the liquid takes on a red colour and, in small doses, hallucinogenic properties. "But larger doses would be fatal," he warned.
Some plants don't have to be eaten, touched, smelled or turned into psychedelics to kill you. There's one plant in the garden that can kill you just by trimming it. The leaves of the Prunus laurocerasus (also known as the cherry laurel or English laurel) contain two components (cyanogenic glycosides and cyanide ions) that, separately, won't harm you. But if an animal was to mash up the leaves by chewing them – or if a human was to take a hedge cutter to them – they produce cyanide gas.
"Normally you're in this outside, well-ventilated space, and on a windy day, it's probably not going to be an issue," he said. "Until you put the cuttings into the boot of your car to take to the tip [the garbage dump] – you're now in a confined space [with] poor ventilation and cyanide gas."
Some plants don't have to be eaten, touched, smelled or turned into psychedelics to kill you
Hellebores, like the Christmas Rose, are another dangerously common plant here. The root has a cardiotoxin that will stop your heart, and the sap has a strong skin irritant. So always wear gloves, and Smith warned, don't remove them by pulling them off with your teeth.
That's something the gardeners here would never do. As head gardener Robert Ternent said, the staff here take a variety of safety steps. "Some of the beds, you don't have to take any precautions at all, whereas you'll get to, like, the giant hogweed bed and then you have a full hazmat suit on, facemask, gloves."
Gardener Amy Thorp is not rattled. "I don't think it concerns me because I feel like we're in their spaces," she said. "A lot of these plants, I think, might have been there before we came along. So, it's up to us to learn and educate ourselves about all of their uses, because a lot of the plants in here are used for good. They're not all bad."
Many people have the laburnum tree around their homes because of their beautiful yellow flowers, but they contain a poison called cytisine (Image: crix/Getty)
In fact, some of the deadliest plants here are the sources of great cures, like the yew, which is used in the treatment of breast cancer. And periwinkle is also double-edged: its ingredients can be fatal, but if processed correctly, it produces beneficial medicines.
Perhaps not surprisingly, the garden is part of a drugs education programme. As Claire Mitchell, head of community and education, explained, "The north-east of England has the highest rates of drug deaths in England and Wales. Something needs to be done in terms of actually getting information to young people out there. So, the drugs education programme stems from the Poison Garden tours, where we do have drug plants, and the whole idea behind it is to prevent drug-related harm."
Indeed, the garden cultivates "the ABC of drugs", as Smith put it: they grow opium poppies (a Class A drug), cannabis (a Class B drug) and catha edulis, commonly known as 'khat' (a Class C drug). But visitors shouldn't get any ideas. As Ternent explained, the staff at the Poison Garden is mandated by to law to meticulously monitor, count and file reports on their drug plants – and then submit proof that they've destroyed them at the end of every season.
This video is part of BBC Reel's Ultimate World playlist.
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Ireland's priceless treasure hidden by monks
By Tracey Croke Features correspondent
Tracey Croke
(Credit: Tracey Croke)
One of the most exciting archaeological finds in the history of Irish art was unearthed on Tipperary's Derrynaflan Island by a man and his son using metal detectors.
"Go up there and dip your finger in the holy water – it's always full," insisted the farmer on the way to Derrynaflan Island. I was lucky to bump into him as there was no sign to direct me along a stony track to this sacred spot, mostly known only to locals.
Derrynaflan is not a typical island. This tiny 44-acre, privately owned mound, in Ireland's biggest inland county, isn't surrounded by an ocean or a lake. Unusually, it pops from the Bog of Lurgoe in Tipperary's vast brown swampy peatlands like a vibrant green mirage. Nevertheless, by dictionary standards, an island it categorically is.
I'd come to this remote bogland to see where Ireland's earliest hermetic monks found solitude from the 6th Century. While most of Europe was reeling in the post-Roman disarray of the Dark Ages, the land of saints and scholars (as Ireland widely became known) bucked the trend by entering a remarkable golden age of scholasticism and artistic achievement, characterised by monastic settlements like Derrynaflan.
But what's especially interesting about Derrynaflan is the priceless buried treasure likely left here by the monks. Discovered just a few decades ago, it changed Irish law and turned out to be one of the most exciting archaeological finds in the history of Irish art.
Careful not to disturb the munching bullocks, I gently climbed a short 200m to the ethereal ruins that still crown the island today. At the top, I wandered into what was left of a 12th-Century abbey that replaced an earlier monastery. A soft apricot evening glow poured through pane-less windows on to a long-departed altar. Two stumpy stone vessels were all that remained. One – a medieval bullaun (bowl) stone – was indeed hollowed enough to collect the farmer's promised "holy" (rain) water. I agnostically blessed myself as instructed.
An information sign at the abbey revealed there's much more to Derrynaflan than first meets the ecclesiastical eye. Controversially, the little-known mystical landmass shot to international archaeology fame in 1980 when a father and son from the town of Clonmel, about 25km away, unearthed an intricately decorated cup and plate using hobby metal detectors.
National Museum of Ireland
Uncovered in 1980, the Derrynaflan Hoard is one of the most exciting archaeological finds in the history of Irish art (Credit: National Museum of Ireland)
The "cup" was, in fact, a 9th-Century chalice. And the "plate", an 8th-Century paten used for holding the bread during the eucharist of Ireland's medieval church, confirmed Nessa O'Connor, curator and archaeologist at the National Museum of Ireland. "They are elite objects with a very, very high standard of craftmanship created at the highpoint in the early Irish church," she said.
The silver chalice and paten are decorated with outstanding examples of ancient Celtic goldsmithing, O'Connor explained. Fine interlaced gold-wire work called "filigree", illustrated on postage stamp-sized intricate art scenes around the edge of the paten, is in a style distinctive to Ireland. The paten is also the only example of its type to survive from early medieval Western Europe.
The combination of the objects is unique… it's a complete altar set
A wine strainer and stand (for the paten) completed a priceless hoard of Insular Art (shared art style in Ireland and Britain around 600 to 900 CE, heavily influenced by the expansion of the Irish monastic tradition). "The combination of the objects is unique… it's a complete altar set," O'Connor said, explaining that burying valuables was common during Viking raids and the dynastic turmoil of the 10th to 12th Centuries. "It looks like it was deposited deliberately [by the monks] at a time of high risk." Archaeologists have since meticulously surveyed the island and nothing else was found, she added.
National Museum of Ireland
The silver chalice and paten (pictured) are decorated with outstanding examples of ancient Celtic goldsmithing (Credit: National Museum of Ireland)
Today, the Derrynaflan Hoard can be admired at the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin, along with other exceptional finds from the Insular Art period, such as the Ardagh Chalice, found in 1868 by a young man digging up potatoes near Ardagh, County Limerick. O'Connor noted that its artistry and style is comparable to the elaborately illustrated Book of Kells, which is "Ireland's greatest cultural treasure", according to Trinity College Dublin, where it is on display.
The natural conditions of boglands have proved to be freakishly good at preserving ancient artefacts. The low temperature, lack of oxygen and high acidity of the soil mean even organic matter can survive for thousands of years. A 3,000-year-old keg of butter was pulled out of an Irish peat bog. Bodies more than 2,000 years old have been found with hair and nails intact. However, before any get-rich-quick treasure-hunting thoughts rush in, Ireland has among the most stringent laws in Europe around metal detecting and excavation – and it was the Derrynaflan treasure discovery that tightened them, explained Sharon Greene, archaeologist and editor of Archaeology Magazine.
It means there isn't a legal hobbyist treasure-hunting scene in Ireland the way there is in other countries
A seven-year legal battle between the Derrynaflan detectorists, the landowner and the government, which went all the way to the Supreme Court, eventually determined that the treasure hoard belonged to the state. "It means there isn't a legal hobbyist treasure-hunting scene in Ireland the way there is in other countries," Greene explained. In the UK, specialist tour operators arrange treasure-hunting trips. "This is never going to happen in Ireland," she said.
The wrangling over ownership and monetary value of the Derrynaflan treasure resulted in practically a blanket metal-detecting ban in Ireland. Penalties for both unlicensed searching and digging are harsh. And any archaeological objects found by accident (ploughing for example) automatically belong to the state. However, Greene continued, nowadays, archaeological interest is less about personal financial gain and more about pride of place and finding that special connection with your past.
Tracey Croke
Derrynaflan Island is surrounded by the Bog of Lurgoe's swampy peatlands (Credit: Tracey Croke)
In this spirit, I'd ambled to Derrynaflan following a newly waymarked 9km loop from the Horse and Jockey Hotel in the tiny townland of the same name. The first 2km was on twisty backroads, where I met with one car, which, judging from its speed, wasn't expecting to meet me. But soon enough, I crossed a bridge onto new stony pathways created by a group of passionate locals during the pandemic to make the perilous boglands more accessible. The island, which can be reached via an informal path, 200m or so off the main route, came into view after a couple of more kilometres.
Getting there The 9km route, which passes close to Derrynaflan island, isn't clearly signposted yet. Landowner permission is needed to visit the island, so it's best to go with a local walking group or enquire at the Horse and Jockey Hotel. Derrynaflan Island is also part of The Derrynaflan Trail, a self-guided driving tour that explores the sacred places of Tipperary's Slieveardagh Hills. The accompanying audio guide tells stories of saints, scholars, sinners, Norman warlords, Viking battles and powerful nobles through heritage sites spanning 15 centuries.
After decades of industrial peat-cutting to fuel Ireland's stoves, the bog was no longer nature's healthy blanket of saturated spongy moss it once was. But, several years since harvesting ended (due to green policies), it was encouraging to see flora gaining confidence over a largely drab landscape.
"Nature will take it back very quickly," said Eoin O’Connell, an agricultural science and biology teacher at a nearby secondary school whom I met en route. O'Connell often walks to Derrynaflan from his family farm in Lurgoe, a townland several kilometres away that the route passes through on the way back to the Horse and Jockey.
Grasses, heather and rows of gorse – a thorny shrub with bright yellow, vanilla-scented flowers – had taken root. Fingers of water, which will one day expand to become a flood plain, beckoned with soft reflections. "Slowly it will go from being a carbon releaser to a carbon sponge," O'Connell said. Wetland birds, now gathering in bigger numbers, pierced an eerie silence. "I've heard a cuckoo, he added. "That's rare."
Liam Fleming, another local who is interested in finding hidden heritage, started Tipperary community walking group Siul Eile (meaning "another walk") with a few people in 2016. It has since grown to 5,000 participants. Visitors can join regular walks (including the Derrynaflan Loop) free of charge. Fleming, who recently received a county honour for his sustainable social enterprise, said, "We take pride in looking after monuments and trails, but we also bring people together and share stories with each other."
Tracey Croke
The island can be accessed via a newly waymarked 9km loop from the Horse and Jockey Hotel in Derrynaflan (Credit: Tracey Croke)
The Irish countryside has one of the densest concentrations of surviving archaeological monuments in Western Europe. "There are other bog islands and ancient monastic sites peppered all over the place," said Greene, who believes heritage sites should be accessible to everybody. While the vast majority of Ireland's 150,000 or so recorded archaeological monuments are on private land (needing permission from the landowner to visit), communities are successfully accessing their local ancient sites, such as megalithic tombs, monasteries, castles, stone circles and battlefields, through the Heritage Council's Adopt a Monument programme.
Visitors will never be far from a community's special pride of place that links it to the past. Since many of these hidden nuggets are often beyond even Google's search prowess, Greene and Fleming both recommend relying on the more traditional way of "enquiring locally" about ancient sites of interest. This means "asking what the go is" at a hotel, a shop or a pub in the area.
In Killenaule, a small town about 9km from Derrynaflan, where you can still get your groceries and a pint of draught Guinness in the same store, people will happily tell you everything you need to know about their beloved treasure island and how you can get there. Expect the lowdown to be wrapped in legendary banter and generations of folklore. But that's another cherished story for locals to tell.
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The village once owned by England's first queen
By Amanda Ruggeri Features correspondent
(Image credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)
One of the UK's only privately owned villages, picturesque, pedestrian-only Clovelly has inspired numerous artists and writers, from JMW Turner to Charles Dickens.
There are two immediate signs that Clovelly, located on the coast of Devon in South West England, isn't your usual seaside village. The first is that the only access is through the visitor centre, which charges £8.50 per adult for entrance (£4.95 for children). The second is the sledges. They stand at attention at the top of the cobbled walk that runs through the town's steep lanes of cottages and down to Clovelly's harbour, 120m below, ready for the next time a resident comes back from the shops and needs to lug their purchases home.
They might seem out of place to a first-time visitor. But both the visitor centre, opened in 1988, and the sledges, which largely replaced donkeys by the 1970s, are ways in which this 1,000-year-old community has adapted to modern times – while still preserving the rhythms of the past.
Even today, there are no cars in Clovelly. (It would be too steep for them to get access even if the town wanted them.) There are no chain stores, no traffic noises, no light pollution. Instead, there are cobbled lanes, whitewashed cottages, small boats bobbing in the 14th-Century stone quay, fat bees and butterflies feeding on flowers, and, almost everywhere, the sound, smells and sight of the Atlantic.
"Moving to a teeny tiny cottage on the edge of a cliff was something I never imagined," said Ellie Jarvis, who came from London to Clovelly for six months in 2007 to help run her family's silk workshop and never left. "But what is so beautiful and unique about Clovelly is not only the cobbles and all the obvious things that you see as a tourist. It's the fact that you're living with the past."
And that past extends a long way.
Amanda Ruggeri/BBC
Instead of cars, chain stores or light pollution, Clovelly has centuries-old cottages and ocean views (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)
In the 11th Century, when it was listed in the Domesday Book, England's earliest public record, Clovelly was owned by William the Conqueror himself. The king later gave the village to his wife Matilda of Flanders, England's first crowned queen. It still retains a quaint, yesteryear feel – a big part of why it was a main location for the films Sense & Sensibility (2008) and The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society (2018); and why, over the centuries, the village has inspired artists and writers from JMW Turner to Charles Dickens.
Few have seen Clovelly as more of a muse than the 19th-Century novelist and poet Charles Kingsley, however, who lived here as a child. "Now that you have seen the dear old Paradise you know what was the inspiration of my life before I met you," he wrote to his wife after her first visit in 1854.
Amanda Ruggeri/BBC
Clovelly's stone quay dates back to the 14th Century (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)
It's true that there are, of course, other picturesque, historical fishing villages in the area without entrance fees. But what appears authentic on first sight can collapse at a closer look. Many idyllic spots have been hollowed out by holiday lets, leaving them bursting with tourists in summer and emptied out in the off season.
At Clovelly, where some 300 people live in the village's 83 cottages, the experience is the reverse. Get past the visitor centre and its souvenir shop, and there is a real – and vibrant – group of residents behind it all.
"There is an actual community that lives here," said Cass Mcfarlane, who moved here in autumn 2021 from London and runs a sweet shop in Kingsley Cottage, a small museum devoted to the writer. "And it's an active, bubbly community, from all ages and walks of life. There's always someone to see and talk to."
Amanda Ruggeri/BBC
Cass Mcfarlane moved to Clovelly in autumn 2021 (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)
Although I'd been to the village before, I first saw this for myself in the run up to Christmas. Everyone in my own town, 15 miles south of Clovelly, had been asking if we were going to see Clovelly's Christmas lights. When we arrived, the lanes were even more packed than they had been at the height of the summer tourist season. A band of local schoolchildren played Christmas carols; people greeted one another on the cobbled streets.
"Very often a visitor would possibly make, I think, the mistake of thinking that it was a sleepy village. And it really isn't," said Jarvis. "There's a lot going on." Festivals, events, theatre. At the same time, she added, "There's a more gentle way of life here. I'm forever telling my children that there's always someone watching them. They cannot misbehave – there's always an audience."
Amanda Ruggeri/BBC
Clovelly may seem sleepy to outsiders, but residents say that's far from the case (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)
That tight-knit, dynamic aspect of Clovelly's community has been nurtured by design, according to the owner of Clovelly, Hon. John Rous. "It was always important to me that Clovelly should remain a living village," he said when we met at his estate office, a jumble of pleasant stone buildings in the shadow of Clovelly's 12th-Century All Saints church. "I didn't want to go down the holiday lets line. I didn't want to go down even a timeshare basis."
Now 71, Rous inherited the village from his mother, a countess, in 1983. This is the other reason Clovelly is unusual: it is one of the UK's only privately owned villages. Not only that, but the Rous family is only the third family to own it since the 1200s.
Amanda Ruggeri/BBC
The Hon. John Rous, shown here in Clovelly Court Gardens, has owned Clovelly since 1983 (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)
In the heyday of aristocracy, this was common. A landowning family would not only employ people to work their farms, but lease them homes and shops, too. But in the same way that so many of the grand houses of yesteryear had to be given up, so too did the villages. It was no different at Clovelly, where, by the 1980s, Rous' family had been selling off parts of the estate – which spreads over 2,000 acres of North Devon – to be able to finance the rest.
"It was a very difficult time. There was not much income being generated from the estate – a little bit of tourism income," Rous said. "I thought, I don't really want to get involved in a sort of managed decline. We've got to try and stop the rot and be self-financing. And so, I realised that we needed to make some major investment in tourism."
This meant building the visitor centre and, for the first time, charging an entrance fee to the village, rather than a car park charge. To his surprise, visitor numbers went up, not down. (Today, there are about 150,000 a year.) Still, the move was viewed with scepticism. Even now, more than 30 years later, a quick look on Tripadvisor shows that plenty of visitors remain irritated about having to pay.
But that income has kept Clovelly intact, Rous said. And it has allowed for a programme of renovation of the cottages, some of which date to at least the 15th Century – and all of which are subject to the wet, wild, windy weather that this part of the English coastline is known for, with all of its upkeep challenges, from mould to damaged roofs.
Amanda Ruggeri/BBC
Some of Clovelly's cottages are more than 600 years old (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)
The tourism income has also allowed Clovelly to maintain an unusual policy for this part of the world: there are no second homes or absentee landlords allowed. (Rous, the only landlord, lives on the estate himself, in Clovelly Manor; while the original manor burned down in 1943 in World War Two, its walled gardens, Clovelly Court Gardens, survived intact and are included in the visitor fee.) As a condition of their tenancy, residents are required to live here full-time.
For longer-term residents like Jarvis, that meant having to change houses several times as her family expanded. Her two boys, aged nine and 13, have grown up here. There are certain days of the year where multiple households move at once in a kind of game of musical chairs, but with sledges instead of moving vans.
Speaking of the sledges, residents say that these are not just quirks. They are an integral part of Clovelly life. Everybody has their own, which they keep at the top of the village. When locals order groceries, the delivery vans know, on seeing "Clovelly" on the address, to give a 15-minute heads up before they arrive so the customer has time to trudge to the top of the village and get their sledge.
"There is no secret way of getting things down," said Mcfarlane. "This morning, I saw a gentleman with a new washing machine and a new cooker. Last year, a grand piano came down."
Amanda Ruggeri/BBC
Almost anything cumbersome gets sledged into Clovelly – even pets (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)
Many residents see it as a small price to pay for the privilege of living in such an idyllic spot. At high tide, Jarvis' boys can jump from their kitchen door straight into the sea. Other residents agree that the inconveniences are worth it.
"Once you've made your mind up, the transition from gas and central heating to putting logs and coal on your sledge and letting gravity bring it down, and chopping wood and making the Raven [wood stove], it just feels right," said Dave Francis, who moved to Clovelly in 2020 and runs the Donkey Shoe Shop with his wife, Jakki.
While it's easy for visitors to forget, the Clovelly estate is far more than the village. It includes 700 acres of woodland, three large farms, the working harbour, gardens and even a sawmill. Some 80 employees keep it all going. That all brings challenges – from dieback in the woodlands to garden upgrades to the unending upkeep of the cottages. ("The nasty thing about that is that you could spend loads and loads of money and hardly notice a difference," Rous remarked, especially since the restorations are done with historical sensitivity, such as reroofing in stone or slate instead of cheaper materials.)
Amanda Ruggeri/BBC
Clovelly's maritime past remains important, and fishing takes place here still today (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)
Despite the challenges, Rous, who speaks with passion about every aspect of running the estate, continues to look forwards. He wants to encourage Clovelly's burgeoning crafting industry (together with silk-maker Jarvis, a soap-maker and potter also have workshops here), as well as the village's historical links to fishing and the sea. He's even thinking about introducing small-scale oyster farming in the bay. "We've got to continually evolve and adapt to changing circumstances," he said, even while preserving the past.
For Jarvis and others, when it comes to finding this balance, Clovelly succeeds.
"It isn't an easy way of life; it isn't straightforward. You can't compare living here to anywhere else," Jarvis said. "But you just fall in love.
"I think you live here with all of your heart."
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The world's largest crystal cave
By Next Stop Stories Features correspondent
As Mila Carretero, geologist and coordinator of the Pulpí Geode, explained, a geode is a cavity inside a rock that is covered with crystals (Image credit: Getty)
An abandoned mine in Spain hides a sparkling treasure – the world's largest geode, a natural crystal phenomenon that has stunned scientists.
In abandoned silver mine in Pulpí, in Spain's south-eastern Almería Province, lies a treasure that's not made from any precious metal at all. Instead, what's hidden here is the world's largest geode – a natural crystal phenomenon that has stunned scientists.
As Mila Carretero, geologist and coordinator of the Pulpí Geode, explained, a geode is a cavity inside a rock that is covered with crystals. Sitting against a backdrop of oversized crystal spars, she broke open a tiny rock with tiny gems inside, to show a comparison. "It's the same as the one I have behind me, only this one is a super-sized version," she said with a laugh as she pointed over her shoulder.
The Pulpí Geode is eight metres wide, two metres high and two metres deep. "When it comes to a geode, by definition, this is the biggest ever discovery," she noted, adding that Pulpí is not to be confused with another crystal marvel, the Naica Mine in Mexico, which has larger spars (15m long compared to Pulpí's two metres), but which is a cave lined with crystals rather than a geode.
The geode here in Spain was originally spotted by miners in the Mina Rica, a silver mine which operated from 1873 to 1969. But it wasn't until years later, in 1999, that geologists found it again and brought it to the world's attention.
"When [the original miners] blasted this rock and found a geode, they probably got upset because they didn't like finding these crystals," said Carretero. "It meant extra work to get rid of them. They weigh a lot and were not profitable."
Though scientists are still researching it, they believe the whole area was once underwater. At a certain point, volcanic activity fractured sedimentary rocks and filled them with hot fluids. When the fluids cooled, the crystals started forming.
Pulpí Geode: We take a tour inside the largest crystal 'cave' of its kind in the world.
Geologists have found that the anhydrite (the mineral that formed the rocks) in Pulpí is from the time of the dinosaurs about 250 million years ago, but they are uncertain of the age of the gypsum crystals themselves because they contain very little impurities that can be dated. Their estimate is that the crystals started growing less than 2 million years ago. "The slower the crystal grows, the larger its size. And the more perfect the crystal is," said Carretero.
The mine was opened to the public in 2019, after some rubble was cleared and safety measures, such as a 42m emergency staircase, were installed. In the process, workers found items left behind by the original miners, including cigarettes, jackets, rubber sandals, beer bottles and scratches on the wall tallying their daily quotas.
More than 100,000 people have visited the geode so far, and Carretero's team is carefully monitoring temperature, carbon dioxide and humidity to ensure the crystals' safety. "More than the carbon dioxide [from human interaction], the humidity is what can really harm the crystals," she said. "Because if a layer [of moisture] coats the crystals, they tend to lose their transparency."
Pulpí's crystals, however, remain remarkably transparent, and visitors and scientists alike continue to be awed by the natural phenomenon. "I couldn't put into words what I felt when I saw it," said Carretero. "It's indescribable because it gives us a sense of how small we are. Look at what nature has given us."
This video is part of BBC Reel's World of Wonder playlist.
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A paradise with too many palm trees
By Anthony Ham Features correspondent
Dorit Bar-Zakay/Getty Images
To keep its bird population thriving, this Seychelles island had to clear out its palm trees (Credit: Dorit Bar-Zakay/Getty Images)
Seychelles' Bird Island was once covered in coconut groves. When a local bought the island, he took it in a different direction – one that's turned it into a home for 500,000 birds.
If you stand on the northernmost tip of Bird Island, it can feel like you're looking at eternity: there is ocean as far as the eye can see. The effect is similar when you snorkel off the same shore; not far out from the beach, the Earth plunges away into a dark oceanic abyss hundreds, then thousands, of metres deep. The feeling is akin to vertigo.
Bird Island is the most northern isle of the Seychelles' 115-island archipelago. It sits on the outer rim of the vast, undersea Mascarene Plateau, an extraordinary uplift of mid-ocean shallow water that covers an area larger than Portugal. The plateau begins at Bird Island and continues south for 2,000km, running almost the length of Madagascar. In the other direction, north of Bird, the Indian Ocean is deep, wide and uninterrupted by any landfall all the way to the Arabian Peninsula.
Bird Island's geography alone makes its story worth telling. But in the past half-century, Bird tells a parallel story of natural renewal, one almost without peer in the world of birds. And it all has to do with the ultimate contradiction: Bird was once a tropical island with too many palm trees.
Wolfgang Kaehler/Getty Images
The island was described as "covered with birds innumerable" when it was first discovered (Credit: Wolfgang Kaehler/Getty Images)
Bird Island first entered the historical record in 1771 when the captain of a passing trading ship, The Eagle, described the island as "covered with birds innumerable" and with "many sea cows (dugongs) on the beach". He named it Bird Island. Thirty-seven years later, in 1808, the French privateering ship Hirondelle ran aground on a reef off Bird's north-eastern coast. Half of the 180 people on board died; the other half made it to Bird Island.
They survived in part because it was September, when the island is filled with birds – a much-needed source of food. Even so, after 22 days, with limited water and with no prospect of rescue, six of the sailors set out on a makeshift raft for Mahé, the largest island in the Seychelles archipelago 100km south of Bird, and the shipwreck survivors were subsequently saved.
For the next 150 years, very little happened on Bird. One enterprising farmer tried to grow papaya, cotton and coconuts; only the coconuts brought in any real income. In 1882, a passing British ship found two Africans living on the island, salting fish and birds in what must have been the loneliest of existences. In the decade following 1895, Bird exported nearly 20,000 tons (20 million kg) of guano (bird droppings) as fertiliser to the sugarcane growers of Mauritius. At the time, 100 people lived on the island. There has never been a town on Bird and the only people living on the island were those working there. Whenever trade dried up or crops failed, the workers left, leaving the island nearly deserted.
By the 1950s, only a handful of people remained, coconut groves entirely covered the island and the breeding colony of sooty terns had fallen from more than a million pairs to barely 18,000 because there were no restrictions on eating the birds and the proliferation of coconut trees meant that more birds were unable to nest.
Bird was once a tropical island with too many palm trees
When a Seychellois accountant named Guy Savy bought the island in 1967, world prices for copra (dried coconut) were in freefall. "We ran it as a normal coconut plantation," said Savy, "until it became clear that there was more money in birds than in coconuts – that wildlife tourism was the future."
Gambling on wildlife over coconuts was a pioneering move. Bird was the first of Seychelles' smaller islands to go down that path. Making the bet even bolder was that, at the time, the only way to reach the country was on a monthly ship arriving from Bombay (now Mumbai) or Mombasa, Kenya. Back then, to get to Bird from the main island of Mahé, involved a 12-hour boat ride.
But everything was about to change. In 1972, Seychelles finally got its first international airport. By the time it opened, Savy had finished Bird Island's own airstrip in readiness. The following year, the island welcomed its first tourists with 10 chalets, rising to 24 a few years later. Savy completed a new lodge in 1993.
Wolfgang Kaehler/Getty Images
Today 24 giant tortoises also live on Bird Island (Credit: Wolfgang Kaehler/Getty Images)
In particular, visitors to the island fell in love with Esmeralda: a giant male Aldabra tortoise with a nearly 2m long. He entered the Guinness Book of Records in 1989 as the world's heaviest tortoise, weighing in at 298kg. According to local legend, Esmeralda was born in the 1780s and arrived on Bird Island aboard the shipwrecked Hirondelle in 1808. If true, that would make Esmeralda nearly 220 years old, meaning he has been alive for almost as long as there have been people living in Seychelles.
Those fortunate enough to visit Bird Island could – and still can – also see green and hawksbill turtles, as well as the 23 other giant tortoises who live on the island.
But the real focus is the birds. When Savy bought the island, there were 15,000 nesting pairs of sooty terns – sleek, black-winged birds with an affecting black eye stripe. Sooty terns are remarkable birds. They have no oil in their feathers and are, therefore, unable to float. Most sooty terns only land when nesting and rearing their young. At Bird Island, that's from April or May to October.
"Between seasons, they spend the whole time on the wing: they do not return to land to roost or to rest," said Rachel Bristol, an expert in sooty terns with extensive experience of Bird Island and its breeding colonies; she is currently collaborating with the Max Planck Institute of Animal Behaviour to track around 250 sooty terns. "They obviously do sleep, but they probably sleep for short bursts frequently while flying, and may be able to shut down the two halves of the brain separately so that they are always aware of what is around them." Just as incredibly, she said, "they can clearly spend years airborne: when they fledge, they possibly do not return to land until they reach breeding age, which is around five years old."
Michel VIARD/Getty Images
Sooty terns need sandy soil to lay their eggs on the ground, which was hard to find when the island was covered in palm trees (Credit: Michel VIARD/Getty Images)
Sooty tern eggs have traditionally been considered a delicacy by the people of Seychelles, and, from the beginning, Savy prohibited anyone from eating the island's birds and eggs. Because rabbits and rats wreak havoc on these ground-nesting birds, his team eradicated them. Crucially, they also discovered that, because they need open, sandy soil on which to lay their eggs, sooty terns could not nest beneath the coconut palm trees, of which there were far too many on Bird. Savy cleared the coconut trees from the island's north.
Almost immediately, the sooty terns returned: in season, there are now an estimated 350,000 breeding pairs, although the number has reached 500,000 in the past. The sooty terns on Bird nest, says Bristol, at a density of seven nests per square metre, spread across the 13-hectare breeding colony. Bird Island is now one of the world's largest bird breeding colonies – and, said Bristol, one of the most important and best-managed such colonies anywhere in the Seychelles archipelago.
With so many sooty terns on an island that covers less than 1 sq km of land, it's easy to imagine that there would be little room for anything else. But the island's portfolio of resident and migrant avifauna is rich and varied and includes terns and tropicbirds, plovers and ruddy turnstones, shearwaters and even a resident population of the handsome Seychelles blue pigeon. Even the island's shape resembles a bird: if you look at a satellite image of Bird Island, it resembles in outline a coquettish dove adrift in the Indian Ocean. And so rich is the birdlife here that Bird took on a starring role in two episodes of Sir David Attenborough's classic The Life of Birds, broadcast in 1998 and 1999.
It can feel like stepping into one of those episodes when you travel to Bird.
Paul & Paveena Mckenzie/Getty Images
Sooty terns seem to sleep in short bursts while flying, and only land when nesting or caring for young (Credit: Paul & Paveena Mckenzie/Getty Images)
It takes just half an hour to get between Mahé and Bird Island by plane. But they are worlds apart. Mahé is quite densely populated with plenty of modern infrastructure. On Bird, there are no motorised vehicles and the airstrip must be checked for tortoises before planes receive permission to land.
It can be tempting to remove your shoes as you deplane on Bird, tuck them away in your suitcase and not put them back on again until it's time to depart. This is a place to feel the sand between your toes, to walk beneath the casuarina trees in the island's south or amid the remaining coconut palms that shade the walking trails of the interior. Birding is an essential part of the experience, with someone from Bird Island Resort always on hand to help you identify what you’re seeing. Best of all, there is nothing to stop you from walking all the way around the island – it only takes an hour – without leaving the beach. The only interruptions will likely be frequent stops for a swim, a snorkel or to gaze out to sea and the infinite horizon.
Coral is everywhere: under the water; under the sand. "It's a coral cay, as opposed to a granite or volcanic island like many of the other islands in Seychelles," said Savy. "The prevailing winds come from the south-east, and over thousands of years they have pushed the coral over the island – that's how the island was created. If you dig down anywhere on the island, you won't find rocks. You find coral."
Birding is an essential part of the experience, with someone from Bird Island Resort always on hand to help you identify what you’re seeing
Travellers who visit between April and October will also hear the birds before they see them. The terns' gull-like clamour is a constant soundtrack, a reassuring evocation of remote ocean shores and deserted tropical beaches. But with darkness comes silence and more stars in the night sky than you ever knew existed.
Stay for long enough and you can almost feel the stress and noise of the human world ebbing away with the waves.
Unlike other Seychelles islands, which have exclusive, luxury resorts, Savy and his team have gone for simplicity, for a fidelity to barefoot tourism with nature ascendant. There is in-room electricity and wifi, for example, but ocean breezes flood the rooms instead of air-con.
"We've always tried to keep things simple," said Savy. "It's a back-to-nature experience. We don't compromise on that. We've never disturbed the island. We leave it alone and see what happens to it."
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The true origin of Sasquatch
By Lisa Kadane Features correspondent
Tourism Harrison/Graham Osborne
There have been 37 notable Sasquatch sightings near the town of Harrison Hot Springs since 1900 (Credit: Tourism Harrison/Graham Osborne)
Stories of a hairy, forest-dwelling, bi-pedal primate have persisted for centuries in British Columbia. But perhaps more important than whether it exists, is what it symbolizes.
From a lookout above the Harrison River Valley in south-western British Columbia, dense forest stretches all the way to the snow-capped Coast Mountains on the Pacific shore. Thick with towering western red cedars, hemlock and Sitka spruce trees, the wilderness continues almost uninterrupted all the way north to Alaska.
Beyond the roads and hiking trails, the terrain soon becomes impassable, punctuated by steep mountains that plunge into glacier-carved lakes. This remote valley 130km east of Vancouver conjures an ancient land filled with mystery and possibility, and some believe it's home to the world's most famous cryptid – Sasquatch, Canada's Bigfoot.
I'd arrived at the viewpoint in an all-terrain vehicle with Bhima Gauthier, who leads tours to spots in the region where sightings have been reported.
"I can't say for sure that they are real," he said. "I have a feeling that there has to be some truth behind it. And there's a lot of stories, especially here we have a very rich mythology."
There have been 37 notable Sasquatch sightings near the town of Harrison Hot Springs since 1900. Called Bigfoot in the United States, and yeti or metoh kangmi ("wild man of the snows") in the Himalaya, Sasquatch is a tall, hairy, bi-pedal, primate-like creature of disputed existence. Regular sightings have kept the popular legend alive, but now it's being told from an Indigenous perspective. The change is driven by public interest in the idea of a Sasquatch rooted in spirituality and symbolism, rather than sensationalism. The creature is considered sacred to West Coast First Nations, particularly the Sts'ailes (sta-hay-lis), who have lived in the Harrison River Valley for at least 10,000 years.
To sate a growing curiosity, Harrison Hot Springs opened a Sasquatch Museum inside its visitor centre in 2017, and worked with Sts'ailes member Boyd Peters, who provided input on the original Sts’ailes acquisitions, including a drum and replica wood mask of Sasquatch. Other displays explain the Sts'ailes belief in Sasquatch as a caretaker of the land and totem for their nation (a stylized image of Sasquatch is on the Sts'ailes flag). These exhibits are juxtaposed with casts of Sasquatch footprints, news clippings about sightings that date to 1884 and a logbook of reported local encounters. Since the museum opened, tourist numbers to the visitor centre have doubled to 20,000 annually, and the resort community received a CAD $1 million government grant to build an expanded museum-and-visitor-centre facility that will aim to balance the telling of Western sighting accounts with Sts'ailes stories and mythology. It's slated to open in 2023.
Tourism Harrison/Graham Osborne
Under the dim green glow of the coastal rainforest, it's easy to see how someone could mistake a mossy stump for a humanoid life form (Credit: Tourism Harrison/Graham Osborne)
Long before TV shows such as Animal Planet's Finding Bigfoot sensationalised the pursuit of the creature, the Sts'ailes passed down songs and stories about sasq'ets, a supernatural slollicum, or shapeshifter, that protects the land and people. In fact, Sasquatch is the anglicised version of sasq'ets (sas-kets), which means "hairy man" in Halq'emeylem, the Sts'ailes upriver dialect.
"The word comes from a mountain that's called Sasq'ets Tel, the place where the Sasquatch gather," said Kelsey Charlie, a Sts'ailes band councillor (an elected governance position). "Everybody paid reverence and honour to the emblem of our nation, which is the Sasquatch."
Long before TV shows sensationalised the pursuit of the creature, the Sts'ailes passed down songs and stories about sasq'ets
In 1929, J.W. Burns, a Canadian government agent, published an article in Maclean's magazine titled Introducing B.C.'s Hairy Giants, which he wrote based on stories shared by Sts'ailes community members he'd befriended. The article presented Sasquatch to the rest of Canada, and the tale took off from there.
This intersection of Sasquatch as symbolic totem, and Sasquatch as living primate, has taken the story beyond mere speculation in Harrison Hot Springs. The town has become a magnet for those seeking answers, like the 26 percent of Canadians that believe cryptids such as Sasquatch are "definitely" or "probably" real, according to an Angus Reid Institute public opinion poll from 2016.
"People literally come here on a pilgrimage, and more than you might think," said Robert Reyerse, executive director of Tourism Harrison.
In addition to visiting the Sasquatch Museum, visitors can take a Sasquatch tour with Gauthier's company, Harrison Lake Nature Adventures, or walk the Sasquatch Trail and take selfies next to Sasquatch statues. Every June, visitors can attend Sasquatch Days, which have been held since 1938. At the event, West Coast First Nations gather for canoe races, salmon barbeque and Sts'ailes Sasquatch dances.
courtesy Kelsey Charlie
A historical photo shows Sts'ailes community members dressed in sasq'ets costumes for the original 1938 Sasquatch Days festival (Credit: courtesy Kelsey Charlie)
"Your first thought is, these [visitors] are going to be crazy, but they're not," said Reyerse. "They're like ordinary people and some of their stories are pretty compelling."
The town also draws researchers such as Thomas Steenburg, who has written four books on the subject, including In Search of Giants: Bigfoot Sasquatch Encounters, and has appeared as a guest speaker on the subject at events such as Alberta Culture Days. He insists he remains a healthy sceptic.
"I accept the possibility that the Sasquatch may turn out to be nothing more than mythology and folklore, and that alone makes it worth looking into," said Steenburg, who lives in the nearby city of Mission.
If Sasquatch is real, Steenburg believes it's an unclassified primate, possibly gigantopithecus blacki, an extinct ape from southern China that could have crossed the Bering Land Bridge and remained concealed in North America's vast boreal forest. But the fact that no one has produced credible documentation of Sasquatch bothers him. Ultimately, the burden of proof lies in DNA, he said.
"Science needs what science has always demanded: a body or piece of body," said Steenburg, standing next to a display case of Sasquatch footprint casts inside the Sasquatch Museum.
Lisa Kadane
If Sasquatch is real, researcher Thomas Steenburg believes it's an unclassified primate, possibly gigantopithecus blacki (Credit: Lisa Kadane)
My curiosity piqued, I went hiking in nearby Sasquatch Provincial Park. Under the dim green glow of the coastal rainforest, it's easy to see how someone could mistake a mossy stump for a humanoid life form. It's a psychological effect called pareidolia – seeing an object where there is none, such as Jesus on a piece of toast. This phenomenon could explain the sightings, like the dark figure spotted close to a campground outhouse in 2010, or a purported Sasquatch that caused a group to flee another campground in 1994.
It's comforting to pass these off as someone's overactive imagination, but these woods give Bonnie Kent pause. A former volunteer with BC Search and Rescue, she helped extract lost hikers from the bush for 15 years.
Kent, now manager of the Sasquatch Museum, initially rolled her eyes about the creature. But after listening to stories from travellers who have come from as far away as New Zealand, she became open-minded about the possibility. "My first response was that people around here used to smoke too much weed and see big hairy guys!" she said with a laugh, before turning serious. "Out in the bush there are a number of times when your hair stands up; there are areas that you just feel you're not supposed to be there."
As Charlie explained, Sts'ailes tradition holds that the creature can change from its physical form to a rock, tree or even another animal. "My grandpa used to say, 'The slollicum is a shapeshifter and can walk in the two realms, the spiritual and the physical. That's why you'll never catch him,'" he said.
But he's not surprised people are still trying. "I think [Sasquatch] resonates because all cultures in the world had some thing, like a supernatural being, and through time and evolution and humanness, we've lost a lot of these things," said Charlie. Perhaps science has made us all sceptics.
Charlie told me about how he saw two Sasquatch drinking water from Harrison Lake in 2002, a dusk sighting that made his hair stand up on end. At the time, he was bashful to tell anyone what he'd seen, fearing derision.
Lisa Kadane
"The word comes from a mountain that's called Sasq'ets Tel, the place where the Sasquatch gather," said Kelsey Charlie, a Sts'ailes band councillor (Credit: Lisa Kadane)
"You don't want to have people looking at you in a certain way," Charlie explained. "Then again, I thought, 'Xwem xwem sq'welewel,' which in our language means, 'you're proud of who you are, where you come from and what you belong to." So, he shared his story.
Ultimately, seeing Sasquatch is considered a blessing and a sign of good luck, Charlie's grandfather used to say. "If you're able to see him, hear him or see his footprints, there's some type of good fortune that's going to come your way because he's making sure that you know that he's there and that you still have to live by the rules," said Charlie, referring to the agreement between humans and sasq'ets to live in harmony with nature. "They live off the land, they live on the land, they are the land."
It's a sentiment shared by Steenburg, and perhaps a place where Sts'ailes mythology and Western fascination come together. "Sasquatch, if it exists, is a symbol that there's still wilderness out there," he said. "We haven't tamed everything."
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Africa's global biodiversity hotspot
By Alba Jaramillo Features correspondent
Paola Giannoni/Getty Images
The Seychelles vows to protect 30% of its ocean territory (Credit: Paola Giannoni/Getty Images)
As tourism has impacted parts of Seychelles' environment, the island nation now aims to protect its 72 low-lying coralline "Outer Islands" from development before it's too late.
Made up of 115 islands dotting the Indian Ocean off East Africa, Seychelles is known as a global hotspot for biodiversity. With as much as 85% of its animals and 45% of its plant species considered endemic, the archipelago is sometimes called the "Galapagos of the Indian Ocean". And both on land and in the ocean, different groups are working to preserve this ecological paradise.
This year, after creating a sophisticated zoning plan and completing extensive conversations with representatives from the country's tourism, fishing, petroleum and conservation efforts, the island nation is prepared to fully implement the landmark Marine Spatial Planning Initiative it announced several years ago: to protect 30% of its ocean territory. Tourism, climate change and other factors have already greatly impacted the environment of the Seychelles' more populated "Inner Islands", so this agreement – part of a deal to write off its national debt in exchange for conservation measures – is now aimed at protecting its 72 low-lying coralline "Outer Islands" from development before it's too late.
The Aldabra Atoll, a Unesco World Heritage site, is one of the Outer Islands that the initiative will help preserve. This rare cluster of coral reef islands has been somewhat naturally protected for years due to its remote location (visitors require a special permit for access and must travel a whole day to get there), but, like many parts of the Seychelles, it is still susceptible to the dangers of climate change. In 1998, the Seychelles lost 90% of its coral reefs in a major coral bleaching event as a result of rising sea temperatures. The 13 new Marine Protected Areas are intended to preserve its ocean territory.
Despite the environmental gains the protection areas will bring, the agreement has not been without its challenges. For example, in these new protected areas – which encompass an area the size of Germany – about half of the country's previous fishing areas would be off limits.
However, Seychelles claims it's looking to bridge the gap between the ambitious initiative and the immediate needs of local economies by including stakeholders (such as fishing and tourism workers) in the conversation.
It's known as a global hotspot for biodiversity
"We are very small. We have very limited land mass, and we need the space for economic development," said Sherin Francis, chief executive of the Seychelles Tourism Board. "But yet we manage to strike that balance and ensure that 50% of our land territory is protected."
The ocean isn't the only part of Seychelles that's being preserved. On land, the National Parks Authority guards over two main areas, Morne Seychellois Park and Praslin National Park, both of which are home to an extensive list of endemic animal and plant species. Morne Seychellois Park, located on the largest island of Mahé, covers 20% of the island's surface, provides fresh water to locals, and is crisscrossed by trails that pass historical ruins from when French and British colonists and Indian and Chinese traders passed through the islands. Praslin National Park is home to the Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve, a palm forest on the Unesco World Heritage List.
The parks' official designation was established once the Seychelles started growing as a tourist destination, a few years after the first international airport was built and the island nation gained its independence. Similar to the initiatives at sea, the national park status was meant to help protect the land while creating an infrastructure to allow visitors to enjoy it by walking more than 15km of trails and viewing its rare bird species and plants.
With all eyes on their landmark conservation goals, Seychelles is gearing up to show how such a small nation can become an example for the many other insular countries facing the effects of climate change. Hopefully, it's not too late.
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Ozette: The US' lost 2,000-year-old village
By Brendan Sainsbury Features correspondent
Paulacobleigh/Getty Images
(Credit: Paulacobleigh/Getty Images)
In 1970, a violent storm uncovered a Makah village that was buried by a mudslide more than 300 years earlier. A newly re-opened museum tells the fascinating story of the ancient site.
Coming to the end of a short, winding trail, I found myself standing in the extreme north-west corner of the contiguous US, a wild, forested realm where white-capped waves slam against the isolated Washington coast with a savage ferocity. Buttressed by vertiginous cliffs battling with the corrosive power of the Pacific, Cape Flattery has an elemental, edge-of-continent feel. No town adorns this stormy promontory. The nearest settlement, Neah Bay, sits eight miles away by road, a diminutive coast-hugging community that is home to the Makah, an indigenous tribe who have fished and thrived in this region for centuries.
The Makah are represented by the motif of a thunderbird perched atop a whale, and their story is closely linked to the sea.
"The Makah is the only tribe with explicit treaty rights to whale hunting in the US," explained Rebekah Monette, a tribal member and historic preservation programme manager. "Our expertise in whaling distinguished us from other tribes. It was very important culturally. In the stratification of Makah society, whaling was at the top of the hierarchy. Hunting had the capacity to supply food for a vast number of people and raw material for tools."
After reading recent news stories about the Makah's whaling rights and the impact of climate change on their traditional waters, I had come to their 27,000-acre reservation on Washington's Olympic Peninsula to learn more, by visiting a unique tribal museum that has just reopened after a two-year hiatus due to Covid-19.
Brendan Sainsbury
The imposing statues outside the Makah Museum wear distinctive cedar-bark rain hats (Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)
Due to a trick of fate, Makah history is exceptionally well-documented. In contrast to other North American civilisations, a snapshot of their past was captured and preserved by a single cataclysmic episode. In 1970, a brutal Pacific storm uncovered part of an abandoned coastal Makah village called Ozette located 15 miles south of Cape Flattery. Part of the village had been buried by a mudslide that was possibly triggered by a dramatic seismic event around 1700, almost a century before the first European contact. Indeed, recent research argues that ancestors of the Makah – or related Wakashan speaking people – have been present in the area for at least 4,000 years, which, if proven, would change our understanding of prehistory in the Olympic Peninsula and Vancouver Island.
Miraculously, the mud had protected embedded organic matter by sealing it off from the air. As a result, thousands of well-preserved artefacts that would normally have rotted – from intact woven cedar baskets to dog-hair blankets and wooden storage boxes – were able to be painstakingly unearthed during a pioneering archaeological dig.
Due to the suddenness of the event and the exceptional levels of preservation, scientists hailed the find a "Western Pompeii" and the Washington Post called it "the most comprehensive collection of artefacts of a pre-European-contact Indian culture ever discovered in the United States".
Anxious the material might be engulfed by the sea and lost, the tribe called in Richard Daugherty, an influential archaeologist at Washington State University who'd been involved in fieldwork in the area since the 1940s. Having good connections with Congress, Daugherty helped secure federal funding for an exhaustive excavation.
Natalie Fobes/Getty Images
Makan petroglyphs can still be seen at Wedding Rocks, just south of the Ozette archaeological site (Credit: Natalie Fobes/Getty Images)
"Dr Daugherty was instrumental in the excavation work," recounted Monette. "He was very progressive and interested in working alongside the tribe in the process. He worked to gain financing for 11 years."
The Ozette dig lasted from 1970 until 1981 and ultimately unearthed around 55,000 artefacts from six beachside cedar houses covered by the slide. The Makah, like many indigenous groups, have a strong oral tradition, with much of their history passed down through storytelling, song and dance. The evidence unearthed at Ozette affirmed these stories and added important details.
"It was a spectacular place to excavate; the preservation and richness was extraordinary," recalled archaeologist Gary Wessen, a former field director at the site who later wrote a PhD dissertation on the topic. "Ozette is what we call a primary deposition. We have all these materials preserved in the places where they were actually used. It helps tell us more about the social and spatial relationship of the people who lived in the houses."
It was a spectacular place to excavate; the preservation and richness was extraordinary
While much of the material dated from around 1700, some of it was significantly older. Indeed, archaeologists ultimately determined that multiple mudslides had hit Ozette over a number of centuries. Beneath one of the houses, another layer of well-preserved material dated back 800 years. The oldest finds so far have been radiocarbon-dated to 2,000 years and there are middens in the area that are at least 4,000 years old, according to Wessen.
From the outset, the Ozette dig was different to other excavations. Tribal members worked alongside university students at the site, and, early on, it was decided that the unearthed material would stay on the reservation rather than be spirited off to distant universities or other non-indigenous institutions. In 1979, the tribe opened the Makah Cultural and Research Center in Neah Bay with a museum to house a "greatest hits" of the collection. The 500 pieces currently on display represent less than 1% of the overall find.
"The tribe was very assertive of their ownership and control of the collection," said Monette. "A lab was developed in Neah Bay. For the museum, we hired Jean Andre, the same exhibit designer as the Royal BC Museum in Victoria. We decided to tell our story seasonally with sections on spring, summer, fall and winter."
Brendan Sainsbury
The museum includes a reconstruction of a wooden Makah house among hundreds of other artefacts (Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)
The result, which has only recently reopened, is a beautifully curated space. Outside on a verdant lawn, I was welcomed by a reconstruction of a traditional wooden Makah house and two large statues wearing distinctive cedar-bark rain hats. Inside, where I met Monette, the assembled exhibits left no doubt about the tribe's maritime prowess. I saw 13ft whaling harpoons, wooden paddles and seal skin buoys. A large central space was taken up with two red cedar canoes guarded by a giant whale skeleton. We proceeded through a mock-up of a dark wooden Makah house with an opening that looked out over a hyper-realistic diorama of the seashore at Ozette.
I was particularly enamoured by the artistry of many of the carved wooden objects. There was a dorsal fin of a whale studded with hundreds of sea otter teeth, and an unusual figurine of a woman lying prostrate in the act of childbirth. These artefacts, along with ornate seal clubs and delicate combs, testify to a remarkable level of craftsmanship.
"The Makah were skilled woodworkers," said Wessen. "They exhibited levels of sophistication regarding technology that weren't appreciated before."
There are several elements about the Ozette project that make it one of the most important archaeological finds in North America to date. The sheer size of the collection coupled with the scale of the effort to recoup it was unprecedented. Then, there's the calibre of the preservation, which, at times, was almost surreal. Wessen recalled excavators using fire hoses to blast the clay off vegetation entrenched in the mudslide. In the process, they exposed green leafy alder branches to sunlight for the first time in more than 300 years. As the oxygen hit, the leaves would quickly turn black, but for 15 to 20 seconds, workers were treated to a glimpse of a bright green leaf from 1700.
When archaeologists and elders work together, we get a more complete understanding of the past
Tribal elders were integral in helping archaeologists understand the meaning of many of the artefacts and how they were used. In the 1970s, there were still a dozen or so native speakers alive in Neah Bay. The knowledge of these elders perfectly complemented the scientific expertise of the archaeologists. Wessen remembers this sharing of ideas as a powerful experience. "When archaeologists and elders work together, we get a more complete understanding of the past," he said.
Brendan Sainsbury
The Makah are represented by the motif of a thunderbird perched atop a whale (Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)
Neah Bay today has a population of just more than 1,000 people and an economy based mainly on fishing. After returning to the town from my blustery walk out to Cape Flattery, I sought shelter in a small waterfront joint called Calvin's Crab House and watched as the weather swung capriciously between sun and rain.
Just outside, a small monument marked the site of Fort Núñez Gaona, a colonial outpost established by a Spanish lieutenant called Salvador Fidalgo in 1792 as the first non-native settlement in the north-western US. Although the Spanish only stayed for four months, their presence marked an important historical watershed, the moment in which two cultures intersected and learned to live alongside each other in a new and different world. Uniquely, Ozette offers us a time capsule of Native life before the changes prompted by European contact.
With the weather closing in, I decided against visiting the archaeological site, which is isolated and difficult to reach without a car. Unlike Pompeii, there are no ruins to walk around – although the surrounding beaches are spectacular – as the site was backfilled in 1981. All that remains today is an abandoned ranger station, a small memorial shed and some indigenous petroglyphs carved on rocks.
As to whether there's anything else down there, Wessen speculated there might be, but admitted that there's still more research to be done on the existing artefacts first: "The Ozette collection in its entirety has not come anywhere close to having its full research potential realised," he said.
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The sounds rebuilding Notre Dame's precious vaults
By Sophia Khatsenkova Features correspondent
ZQFotography/Getty Images
Notre-Dame's collapsed roof and burned walls have caused it to lose its "voice" (Credit: ZQFotography/Getty Images)
Soundscape archaeologist Mylène Pardoën is reproducing the sounds that were heard inside and outside the Paris cathedral from its construction in the 13th Century until the 2019 fire.
Hushed voices echo under the vaults and children play near the esplanade. Hooves click-clack on 18th-Century cobblestones as merchants haggle in the distance. Ever imagined the sounds that brought to life a place like Paris' Notre-Dame cathedral hundreds of years ago?
This is what Mylène Pardoën is trying to achieve. Based in the French city of Lyon, she introduces herself as a soundscape archaeologist, a profession she invented after she started questioning why museums often neglect using sound in their exhibits. Over the past 10 years, she has been scouring monuments and construction sites around the country and analysing acoustic environments to help her recreate sounds that allow us to travel back in time.
I tell stories from the past not with words, but with sounds.
"I tell stories from the past not with words, but with sounds. So, there's a narrative aspect to my work, but never a fictional one," she explained, as her green eyes lit up under her small round glasses.
One of her biggest projects to date: working on restoring Notre Dame cathedral, which was severely damaged by a 2019 fire. The collapsed roof and burned upper walls have caused the cathedral to lose its "voice": its unique reverberance that commanded an almost sacred silence among visitors.
Through her project called "The Past Has Ears Notre-Dame", led by the French Ministry of Culture and the French National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS), Pardoën's goal is to reproduce the everyday sounds that were heard inside and outside the cathedral, from its construction in the 13th Century until the 2019 fire. Working alongside a team of acoustics researchers and sound engineers, her findings will help the architects choose the materials and techniques used to restore Notre-Dame in order to make it "sound" like it used to.
THEPALMER/Getty Images
There were animals like dogs and horses around the cathedral in the 18th Century (Credit: THEPALMER/Getty Images)
To find these noises, Pardoën has her nose buried deep in archives. "I dig into anything I can find from the time period I'm interested in. It can be paintings, sculptures, literature, even administrative documents to understand what everyday objects surrounded people and hence what noises could be heard," she said. "For example, we know from historical sources that there were animals like dogs and horses around the cathedral in the 18th Century. So, I'll go out and record sounds of those animals."
Currently, Notre Dame is closed to all research teams due to lead and asbestos removal. So, Pardoën found a new sound playground located deep in the forests of northern Burgundy, France. There, she could find sounds – mainly of replicas tools in action – from the Middle Ages.
A narrow, winding road leads to the entrance of Guédelon, one of the world's most unique castles. In 1997, a group of French medieval enthusiasts and friends had a little too much to drink over dinner one evening and decided to build a 13th-Century castle from scratch, using only tools and methods available during that period. Twenty-four years later, the castle – which is still under construction – is an unusual archaeological experiment attracting more than 300,000 tourists per year (pre-pandemic) and numerous academics such as Pardoën.
Sophia Khatsenkova
Workers at Guédelon castle use only tools and methods available during mediaeval times (Credit: Sophia Khatsenkova)
"There is a sort of music here. When everything's in harmony, you can hear it. But when there's a dissonance, you can hear it too," said Maryline Martin, one of Guédelon's co-founders, her words competing with the sounds of Guédelon employees working on the castle: a blacksmith hammering away and quarrymen smashing sandstone for the remaining tower. "Pardoën helps us pinpoint whether we are respecting the sounds of the 13th Century."
No workshop escapes Pardoën's ears, whether it's the carpenter cutting wood or the baker kneading dough. These recordings have several objectives. The first one, linked to Notre Dame, is to record the work of different craftspeople on site, such as masons, who were present inside and around the cathedral back in the Middle Ages.
This will help her recreate the ambiance of the cathedral during those times. These recordings will then be input into a computer simulation designed by a team of engineers, which will help to predict how materials and structural choices during the reconstruction might alter Notre-Dame's future acoustics. Even changes such as laying a carpet or using wood instead of metal for the vaults can dramatically change the cathedral's "voice".
Sophia Khatsenkova
Soundscape archaeologist Mylène Pardoën is reproducing sounds from the past (Credit: Sophia Khatsenkova)
The second is to classify these sounds into France's intangible cultural heritage. Unesco considers intangible cultural heritage as the practices and representations, as well as the knowledge and skills individuals recognise as part of their cultural heritage, such as craftsmanship or rituals.
"We need to safeguard these ancient professions. It's also part of passing them down generation to generation, from master to pupil," said Pardoën. "If this disappears, the chain breaks and it could take us 20 to 30 years to rediscover the gestures of a traditional craftsman back in the day. And understanding the past's sounds helps us understand history and the present even better."
We need to safeguard these ancient professions
Florian Renucci, philosopher turned master mason, explained that Pardoën's recording has been precious to the craftspeople in Guédelon. "It allows us to discover our job in another way. For example, when we listen to her recordings, we can tell whether we are doing a good or shoddy job just by listening to the sounds our tools make. It adds a whole new dimension to the project," he said.
The soundscape archaeologist is adamant that she is not a sound designer. "A lot of people think I invent sounds," Pardoën said. "That is not the case. I recover sounds of the past that can be found in the present."
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Cucuteni-Trypillia: Eastern Europe's lost civilisation
By Valeria Kovtun Features correspondent
iStock/Getty Images
The civilisation of Trypillia began 7,000 years ago in what is now Eastern Europe, primarily Moldova, Romania and Ukraine (Credit: iStock/Getty Images)
Excavated megasites in Moldova, Romania and Ukraine reveal ancient cities shaped by advanced construction techniques and large populations.
"You know there is a book by Jules Verne called the Mysterious Island, where people find themselves on an island and begin to build a civilisation?" asked Mykhailo Videiko, an archaeologist at Borys Grinchenko Kyiv University in Ukraine. "But here it is not a fictional story," he paused. "This is a real story." Silenced twice, once by time and again by politics, the ancient civilisation of Cucuteni-Trypillia is once again finding voices to share its story.
The story of Trypillia, as it is commonly known, started 7,000 years ago in what is now Eastern Europe, primarily Moldova, Romania and Ukraine. Excavated settlements offer modern archaeologists one of the earliest known examples of urbanisation and suggest a population that exceeded one million people.
The people of Trypillia "managed to implement almost all technological innovations of their time," said Videiko. Advanced kilns supported sophisticated pottery decorated with patterns and colour. Construction techniques allowed for buildings as large as 700sq m. Found objects indicate a culture that worshipped goddesses.
Trypillia: The 7,000-year-old civilisation silenced by communists
Trypillia research was initially embraced by the Soviet Union, which funded archaeological projects. Communist officials seized on parallels between the impressive ancient civilisation and Marxist ideology that promoted a classless society with no private ownership. It was thought that "Trypillia was a wonderful illustration of a pre-class, classless society or primitive communism," said Videiko. But when indications that Trypillia may not have been the classless utopia it first appeared, things quickly changed.
"As archaeologists are digging more, they start discovering megasites of Trypillia civilisation. They start finding all these huge buildings. And the question arises: Could this all be done by a classless society?" said Videiko.
In the years that followed, researchers who challenged the official propaganda were deemed enemies of the state. Archaeologists fled, and some were convicted as members of a terrorist spy organisation. Books that furthered the study of Trypillia were published outside the country, but, said Videiko, "Those books never reached Ukraine. They were researching something but almost no one here knew about it. Those who knew, remained silent."
aliokhin/Getty Images
Temples with bas-relief and other excavated Trypillian structures offer clues about the ancient culture (Credit: aliokhin/Getty Images)
Today, Trypillia's legacy is being revived through fashion. Ukrainian designer Svitlana Bevza has found inspiration in the female-centred art of the ancient civilisation and uses her line of Trypillia-influenced clothing and jewellery as a way of celebrating the culture, its reverence toward women and its connection to nature. She said it's unjust that "this great culture is not that well-known in the world – as Egyptian, for instance. There was no voice to the world who could talk about this culture".
An advanced civilisation built from nothing is not just the stuff of fantasy novels, it's also the true story, being told once again, of Cucuteni-Trypillia.
(Video by Valeria Kovtun; text by Christine Sarkis)
This video is part of BBC Reel’s Forgotten Places playlist.
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The unsolved mystery of Sri Lanka's 'Stargate'
By Demi Perera Features correspondent
AnaG/Getty Images
Sri Lanka's sacred city of Anuradhapura was the first established kingdom on the island (Credit: AnaG/Getty Images)
In recent years, the internet has been alight with speculation that a chart-like carving in Anuradhapura is a stargate: an ancient gateway through which humans can enter the Universe.
Sri Lanka's sacred city of Anuradhapura is an unlikely place to be enmeshed in a fantastic tale of UFOs and otherworldly happenings. Locally known as Rajarata (Land of Kings), the Unesco World Heritage Site was the first established kingdom on the island (in 377 BC) and is at the heart of Sri Lanka's Buddhist culture. Today, it's one of the nation's most visited places, attracting devoted pilgrims from around the country to its ancient Buddhist temples and giant dome-shaped stupas.
But this holy city is also home to something far more curious. Here, in Ranmasu Uyana (Golden Fish Park), a 40-acre ancient urban park surrounded by three Buddhist temples, is a chart that's alleged to be a map to unlock the secrets of the Universe.
Sahan Perera
The Sakwala Chakraya has been variously interpreted as a cosmographical chart, a stargate and a building plan (Credit: Sahan Perera)
Measuring around 1.8m in diameter, Sakwala Chakraya (which translates to "Universe Cycle" in Sinhalese) is shallowly carved onto a low rock face among the protected park ruins. Its front facade can only be seen from ground level. In fact, four seats have been sculpted into a flat rock surface opposite that provide the ideal viewing area. Both the map and seats, which are also of mysterious origin, have puzzled historians, archaeologists and academics for more than a century.
Its existence, function or anything related to it is not mentioned in any historic records
"Ranmasu Uyana was used for a prolonged period in history," said Professor Raj Somadeva, senior professor of archaeology at the University of Kelaniya, Sri Lanka. "The second major developmental phase seems to have begun in the 7th Century CE. During that period, several new buildings were added to the earlier garden layout. The chart could be a work of this period, but it's impossible to know because its existence, function or anything related to it is not mentioned in any historic records, which were meticulously kept by Buddhist monks."
While little is known about the chart and its purpose, the iconography is incompatible with other carvings of the Anuradhapura period (3rd-10th Century AD). The chart's centre is made up of seven concentric circles divided by parallel vertical and horizontal lines. Rectangular compartments contain small, crossed circles. To the untrained eye, there are figures resembling umbrellas or bow and arrows, a kite, wavy lines and cylindrical shapes. An outer ring depicts marine animals: fish, turtles, seahorses.
When compared to other carvings from the same period such as the Sandakada Pahana, which depicts vines, swans and a lotus, all typical of Buddhist iconography, the chart is without religious context, leaving it without an obvious explanation as to why it is here.
AnaG/Getty Images
Sri Lanka's sacred city of Anuradhapura was the first established kingdom on the island (Credit: AnaG/Getty Images)
This has left it wide open to online speculation. Before the dawn of the internet, the chart garnered little attention in Sri Lanka. It is thought to have survived here, tucked away at the edge of a boulder, after the fall of the Anuradhapura kingdom; unremarkable in comparison to its breath-taking surroundings complete with twin ponds and bathing pavilions believed to have been used by kings. In fact, if aliens did arrive on Earth through here, they couldn't have picked a nicer place – these sacred temple grounds, cloaked in thick, tropical jungle, are mostly uninhabited and protected by the authorities.
The first academic to note the chart's archaeological importance was H C P Bell, a British civil servant appointed as the first Commissioner of Archaeology of Ceylon (Sri Lanka's former name). Bell included a description of the chart in his 1911 report for the Governor of Ceylon, where he concluded that, "This ancient 'map of the world', perhaps the oldest in existence, is of quite extraordinary interest. Its presence… testifies to the antiquity of that astronomical lore still pursued in some of the Buddhist monasteries of Ceylon."
While the chart does not resemble a map in a modern sense, Bell wrote that it depicts "an old-time cosmographical chart illustrating in naivest simplicity the Buddhistic notions of the universe". He interpreted the circles, the symbols and marine life on the chart, based on his knowledge of Buddhism on the island, to mean the Earth, the seas, outer space and the Universe.
While discussions around the chart for many years were mainly confined within academic circles due to its historically important location, the explosion of photo-sharing on social media over the last few years has shone a global spotlight on the mystery. Eagle-eyed tourists have remarked on parallels between the chart in Anuradhapura and similar sites in other countries that are believed by some to be stargates – ancient gateways through which humans could enter the Universe. Their theory goes that the chart holds the secret code for unlocking the portal.
Sri Lanka Tourism
Ranmasu Uyana is a 40-acre ancient pleasure garden that includes the ruins of bathing pools (Credit: Sri Lanka Tourism)
Conspiracy theorists noted that the stargate of Anuradhapura had near-identical shapes and symbols to those found at Abu Ghurab in Egypt and La Puerta de Hayu Marka in Peru. The most striking similarity, it was said, as speculation around Sri Lanka's stargate reached its peak, is its proximity to water. The nearby Tissa Weva reservoir, built in 300 BC, has been thrown around as conclusive evidence, since both Abu Ghurab and La Puerta de Hayu Marka were also built near water, which, according to the stargate theory, allowed extra-terrestrial beings to process gold from Earth's water.
This otherworldly theory has been further fuelled by the chart's proximity to Danigala mountain, also known as Alien Mountain, in the nearby sacred city of Polonnaruwa. Danigala, which lies deep in the jungle and is popular with hikers, has a unique circular shape and entirely flat top. This led internet sleuths to conclude that it must have, at one time, been used for UFO landings. Strangely, according to Sri Abeywickrama, a local tour guide, "villagers in the area do believe that Alien Mountain attracts more shooting stars and thunder and lightning above it than anywhere else."
However, according to Somadeva, "There is little archaeologically to suggest that it's a stargate." Instead, Somadeva believes a more sensible conclusion is that the chart is an early map of the world, as suggested by Bell, because that explanation has religious and cosmological context that is logical, given the period and place in time.
According to Somadeva, "At least since 250 BCE, Sri Lankans had a clear idea of objects in the sky and outer space. In early Brahmi inscriptions, found in Sri Lanka, there are a number of names that refer to specific stars and concepts related to astronomy. One of the inscriptions in Kirinda, a religious and historic site on Sri Lanka's southern coast, contains the phrase 'aparimita loka datuya' meaning 'the infinite universe'. What it suggests is that the person who engraved it had a very good understanding of the nature of the universe they lived in."
Sahan Perera
Opposite the chart, four seats sculpted into rock provide an ideal viewing area (Credit: Sahan Perera)
However, Shereen Almendra, senior lecturer of landscape design at the University of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, offers a different, more earthly perspective. "I think the Sakwala Chakraya chart is a plan for a complex project similar to the enormous stupas that were being built at the time," she said. "I lean towards it being a plan for Sigiriya."
Sigiriya is one of Sri Lanka's most recognised ancient landmarks, a 5th Century BC rock fortress, complete with flowing water, landscaped gardens and multiple living quarters. It lies just half an hour away from Anuradhapura within Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle, which is made up of three important ancient cities: Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Kandy. "Given that the three seats carved in front of the chart appear to slightly face toward each other, it makes me think that it was a place for discussion – an ancient architect's office if you like," she said. "If the seats were built for a religious purpose, such as meditation, they would be in a straight line instead."
According to Somadeva, the greatest challenge in identifying the function of the chart has been the lack of evidence to correctly date it. While Ranmasu Uyana and other parks and stupas in Anuradhapura are mentioned in chronicles and inscriptions dating as far back as 250 BC, the Sakwala Chakraya is not described in any historical records. "There would definitely have been a practical use for this diagram but it's a huge challenge to figure out what that might have been when we can't correctly date it," he said.
So it seems that Sri Lanka's enigmatic alleged stargate remains shrouded in mystery, its purpose and meaning still lost to time. The chart's newly acquired cult status amongst sci-fi enthusiasts, however, has finally given it some well-deserved public attention. Thanks to their enthusiasm and the power of social media, it has finally stepped out of the shadow of larger-than-life Anuradhapura to stand apart on its own.
Anthony Asael/Art in All of Us/Getty Images
One expert suggested the chart may be a building plan for nearby Sigiriya, a 5th Century BC rock fortress (Credit: Anthony Asael/Art in All of Us/Getty Images)
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In this article, we look at possible causes of low energy levels in men, and how they can increase their energy levels.
Medical conditions, such as low testosterone and sleep apnea, can also cause low energy levels in men.
Many men feel tired and overwhelmed each day, especially with the busy lives that many people lead. Lifestyle factors can cause low energy levels, such as sleep patterns, exercise, and diet.
Many lifestyle and medical factors can cause low energy. Some of these are unique to men or are more common in men than women.
For more research-backed information and resources, visit our dedicated men’s health hub .
Other symptoms associated with low energy or fatigue include:
A person experiencing low energy may feel tired all the time and may be unable to complete basic tasks without feeling worn out or exhausted.
There are several reasons why a man might have low energy or chronic fatigue.
Below, we discuss possible reasons why a man may be experiencing low energy levels.
1. Diet
A poor diet or nutritional deficiencies may cause people to have low energy levels.
A healthful diet containing plenty of vegetables, whole grains, and proteins can boost a man’s energy levels.
Eating a diet that is lacking in major nutrients, or one that does not contain enough calories can cause fatigue or low energy.
Having these shortages is especially common in younger men who may be exercising a lot or weight lifting, or in older men who are not eating enough or are having issues with malnutrition.
2. Exercise patterns
People may notice that their energy levels decrease after they spend a long time without exercising. Exercise increases adrenaline and energy levels.
Over time, a lack of exercise can cause the muscles to become weaker, which can cause fatigue after doing basic activities.
Too much exercise can also lead to fatigue. Finding the correct balance for optimal energy levels is important.
3. Low testosterone
Testosterone is the primary male sex hormone. It plays an essential role in mental and physical energy levels.
As men age, the amount of testosterone that their body produces naturally declines .
Low testosterone levels, also called male hypogonadism , can cause low energy levels, fatigue, and depression in men. Male hypogonadism becomes more common as a man gets older.
Other symptoms of low testosterone include
reduced energy and stamina
depression
irritability
difficulty concentrating
anemia
hot flushes
erectile dysfunction
infertility
decrease in beard and body hair growth
decrease in muscle mass
development of breast tissue called gynecomastia
loss of bone mass called osteoporosis
4. Sleep apnea
Share on Pinterest Sleep disorders can cause low energy levels.
Sleep apnea is a sleep disorder where a person’s breathing is interrupted during sleep. They may stop breathing for around 10 seconds at a time and multiple times each night.
Sleep apnea is more common in men than women and in people who are overweight.
The main symptom of sleep apnea is excessive sleepiness during the day. Other symptoms include:
restless sleep
loud snoring
morning headaches
trouble concentrating
irritability
anxiety or depression
These symptoms do not always signal sleep apnea. If a person suspects that they have sleep apnea, they should speak to a doctor, as left untreated, this condition can be life-threatening
5. Insomnia
Insomnia and other sleep problems can cause low energy in men. Though more common in older adults, insomnia can affect men of any age.
There are many different causes of insomnia, including physical, emotional, and psychological reasons.
6. Depression
Depression is a medical condition that affects a large number of men. The symptoms of depression may be different in men and women.
Men with depression may feel as though they have very low energy. They can lose interest in areas of their life, such as work, family, or hobbies.
Depression in men can cause the following symptoms:
sadness and irritability
anger or aggression
trouble sleeping
difficulty concentrating
difficulty performing daily tasks
problems with sexual desire and performance
withdrawing from friends and family
Men are less likely than women to acknowledge, talk about, and seek treatment for depression. However, it is necessary to tackle these emotions by talking to a loved one or doctor and seeking treatment.
7. Anemia
Iron-deficiency anemia is a common nutritional deficiency caused by a lack of iron.
While it is also found in women, bleeding in the gastrointestinal tract in men, such as from an ulcer or gastritis, is the most common cause of this type of anemia.
8. Thyroid disorders
The thyroid gland produces hormones that control the body’s metabolism and other essential functions. When the thyroid gland is not producing enough of certain hormones, it causes a condition known as hypothyroidism.
Women are much more likely to have hypothyroidism, but men of all ages can also develop this condition.
Symptoms of thyroid disorders include:
fatigue
brain fog
changes in appetite
intolerance to the cold
9. Medical conditions
There are several medical conditions and associated factors that can also cause fatigue.
Among the most common are:
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Men's Health
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Statistics show that the most common cause of death in males is heart disease. But will this hold true when breaking down the data by age or ethnicity? Share on Pinterest Why do men die? Men’s health lags significantly behind women’s health, not just in the public eye, but also as a focus for the medical profession. Do males die sooner than females? And is a Black male likely to die from the same cause as a White male? In a Special Feature article, we explore the leading health risks in males and delve deeper into the data, breaking it down into relevant sections by age and ethnicity. We also explore why research into men’s health should include males from all walks of life.
Most common causes of death According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) , heart disease is the top killer when analyzing data from males of all age groups and ethnicities in a large 2017 data set for the United States. Nearly one-quarter of death in males is due to heart disease. But, to understand the full picture, it makes more sense to look at the data broken down by age or ethnicity , as this changes the landscape quite significantly. While heart disease may be the most common reason for death in all males taken together, accidents occupy the top spot for those under 45 years of age. In males between the ages of 45 and 85, it is cancer. Once men reach 85 years old, heart disease is the most common cause of death. In males under 45 years, suicide is the second most common reason for death, while in males between the ages of 45 and 64, it is the sixth most common reason. In males over 65 years, suicide is not one of the 10 most common reasons. The third most common cause of death in males under 20 years of age is homicide. Between the ages of 20 and 44, homicide is in fourth position, while it drops out of the list of the top 10 in males over 45 years. When breaking down the data by ethnicity, heart disease once again takes the top spot for males of all ages, with cancer coming in second position, except for Asian or Pacific Islanders where they are the other way around. Rank White Black American Indian or Alaska Native Asian or Pacific Islander Hispanic All races and origins 1 Heart disease
24.7% Heart disease
23.7% Heart disease
19.4% Cancer
24.8% Heart disease
20.3% Heart disease
24.2% 2 Cancer
22.4% Cancer
20.2% Cancer
16.4% Heart disease
22.6% Cancer
19.4% Cancer
21.9% 3 Accidents 7.2% Accidents 7.9% Accidents 13.8% Stroke
6.6% Accidents 11.5% Accidents 7.6% 4
Chronic lower respiratory diseases 5.9% Homicide
5.0% Diabetes
5.9% Accidents 5.6% Stroke
4.7% Chronic lower respiratory diseases
5.2% 5 Stroke
4.1% Stroke
4.9% Chronic liver disease
5.3% Diabetes
4.3% Diabetes
4.7% Stroke
4.3% 6
Alzheimer’s disease
2.9% Diabetes
4.3% Suicide
4.3% Chronic lower respiratory diseases
3.2% Chronic liver disease
4.0% Diabetes
3.2% 7 Diabetes
2.8% Chronic lower respiratory diseases
3.2% Chronic lower respiratory diseases
4.2% Influenza and pneumonia
3.1% Suicide
2.9% Alzheimer’s disease
2.6% 8 Suicide
2.7% Kidney disease
2.6% Stroke
3.1% Suicide
2.7% Chronic lower respiratory diseases
2.5% Suicide
2.6% 9 Influenza and pneumonia
1.9% Septicemia
1.7% Homicide
1.9% Alzheimer’s disease
2.1% Homicide
2.4% Influenza and pneumonia
1.8% 10 Chronic liver disease
1.7% Hyper-tension
1.6% Influenza and pneumonia
1.8% Kidney disease
2.1% Alzheimer’s disease
2.1% Chronic liver disease
1.8% The leading causes of death in men in the United States, 2017. Source: CDC The third most common cause of death is accidents in all males, except for Asian or Pacific Islanders, where it is stroke. In position four, the reasons for dying become significantly more diverse. For all males taken together, as well as for white males as a subgroup, it is chronic lower respiratory diseases. For Black males, it is homicide, while for American Indian or Alaska Native males, it is diabetes, for Asian or Pacific Islander males, it is accidents, and for Hispanic males, it is stroke. Suicide features in eighth position for Asian or Pacific Islander and white males, in sixth position for American Indian or Alaska Native males, and in seventh position for Hispanic males. It is not in the 10 most common reasons for death for Black males. For more research-backed information and resources for men’s health, please visit our dedicated hub. Was this helpful?
The wider view of male health According to the CDC , 6 in 10 adults in the U.S. live with a chronic disease, and 4 in 10 live with two or more chronic diseases. Chronic diseases pose a significant risk to health for all. The CDC state that lifestyle factors, such as smoking, alcohol, lack of exercise, and poor nutrition, are major risk factors for many chronic diseases. The rate of smoking among all males is almost 16% . Yet, a data breakdown by the American Lung Association from 2015 shows that 13.1% Hispanic men smoke, while among other ethnic groups, the rates were 20.9% for Black men, 19% for Non-Hispanic American Indian or Alaska Native males, and 12% for Non-Hispanic Asian or Pacific Islander males. Nearly 31% of men over 18 years had five or more drinks at least once in the past year, and 9.2 million men live with alcohol use disorder. Yet only 8% received treatment for the condition in the past year. Data from the 2018 National Health Interview Survey estimate that only 57.6% of all men reach the government’s recommended physical activity guidelines of at least 150 to 300 minutes of moderate intensity or 75 minutes to 150 minutes vigorous intensity, aerobic, physical activity. Across the U.S., 12.2% of males under 65 years old do not have health insurance, and 12% of men over 18 years report being in fair or poor health. According to the Office for Minority Health, part of the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, the life expectancy for Native Hawaiian or Pacific Islander men was 77.7 years based on 2015 Census Bureau data. It was 72.9 years for Black men, 74.7 years for American Indian or Alaska Native men; for Asian American men, it was 77.5 years, and 79.6 years for Hispanic men, while it was 77.5 years for white men. Data from 2017 shows that life expectancy for males of all ethnicities taken together has dropped to 76.1 years, which is 5 years less than females.
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Men's Health
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Both men and women can experience depression, but the signs and symptoms can be different. Although the primary symptom of depression for many is often a feeling of sadness, men may have a higher tendency than women to feel anger, demonstrate aggressive feelings, and engage in substance abuse. Due to the different symptoms, and because men are typically less likely to talk about and seek treatment for depression than women, many men may have undiagnosed depression. In this article, we explore the emotional, behavioral, and physical signs of depression in men. We also discuss how to get help. Read on to learn how to recognize and manage depression in men.
Men and depression Share on Pinterest Depression is a mood disorder that can go undiagnosed in men. Depression is common in men. According to the American Psychological Association, an estimated 9 percent of men in the United States have feelings of depression or anxiety each day, and 30.6 percent of men experience a period of depression during their lifetime. Depression is a mood disorder that affects a person’s thoughts, feelings, body, and behavior. Doctors may refer to depression as major depression, major depressive disorder, or clinical depression. Depression is more common in women, affecting 10.4 percent of women compared with 5.5 percent of men in the U.S. However, the number of men who die by suicide is four times the number of women. One of the reasons for this could be that men are less likely to get a diagnosis of depression. Depression is a significant risk factor for suicide. Understanding how depression symptoms might differ between men and women is important. It can help make people aware of depression in themselves and their loved ones. Recognizing depression is the first step toward recovery. Men’s health resources For more research-backed information and resources, visit our dedicated men’s health hub. Was this helpful?
Symptoms in men and women Some symptoms of depression are the same for men and women. These include: feeling sad, tearful, low, guilty, or empty
losing enjoyment in pleasurable activities
appetite or weight changes
too little or too much sleep
feeling agitated or tired
having trouble concentrating Not everyone with depression will experience all of these symptoms. Some symptoms of depression are more likely to affect men than women, which could be due to genetic, hormonal, biochemical, or social factors. We look at depression in men in more detail below.
Behavioral signs in men The behavioral signs of depression can manifest differently in men and women. For instance, alcohol and drug use affect men with depression more often than women, and men are more likely than women to display anger attacks and risk-taking behavior. Men with depression may notice the following behavioral changes: drinking more or taking drugs
avoiding family or social situations
working obsessively without taking proper breaks
finding it hard to keep up with work or family responsibilities
becoming more controlling or abusive in relationships
engaging in risk-taking behavior, such as gambling or unsafe sex
attempting suicide One theory is that these behavioral changes occur as a result of men trying to mask depression and adhere to so-called “masculine norms.” This attempt to conceal depression may cause men to lash out or engage in self-destructive behaviors. Men with depression may also lose interest in their hobbies and passions or feel less motivated to succeed at work. Depression may affect a man’s sex drive too. Men with depression may have less interest in having sex and might have trouble with sexual performance.
Emotional signs in men Share on Pinterest Early signs of depression can include irritability and frustration. Some men may find it easier to discuss physical symptoms than mood changes. However, there is a close link between the mind and body. It is vital to share all symptoms with a doctor, even if they seem insignificant or irrelevant. Depression affects the emotional state of both men and women, causing low mood. Women with depression may express this as sadness, but some men may be less comfortable outwardly expressing this emotion. Changes to their emotional state can, therefore, become apparent in other ways. Early signs of depression in men can include an increase in: anger
frustration
aggression
irritability These differences may be due to societal expectations of how men and women express emotion. It is likely that men will be less willing to show certain emotions, such as sadness, if they feel that others may judge or criticize them for it. Men with depression may experience thoughts of suicide. Suicide prevention If you know someone at immediate risk of self-harm, suicide, or hurting another person: Ask the tough question: “Are you considering suicide?”
Listen to the person without judgment.
Call 911 or the local emergency number, or text TALK to 741741 to communicate with a trained crisis counselor.
Stay with the person until professional help arrives.
Try to remove any weapons, medications, or other potentially harmful objects. If you or someone you know is having thoughts of suicide, a prevention hotline can help. The 988 Suicide and Crisis Lifeline is available 24 hours a day at 988. During a crisis, people who are hard of hearing can use their preferred relay service or dial 711 then 988. Find more links and local resources. Was this helpful?
Physical signs in men Depression is a mental health condition, but it also has physical symptoms. Men with depression may experience: headaches
tightness in the chest
joint, limb, or back pain
digestive problems
tiredness
sleeping too much or too little
feeling restless or agitated
eating too much or too little
unintentional weight loss Some of these symptoms may arise because of the effect that depression has on a person’s brain chemicals. Depression changes the levels of serotonin and norepinephrine, which are brain messengers that govern pain and mood. Shared brain cell pathways may link depression and pain.
Why is depression in men often undiagnosed? According to 2013–2016 figures from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) , women are almost twice as likely to experience major depression than men. However, it is likely that more men than women avoid reporting depression, so the figures for men may be higher. According to some estimates, two-thirds of people with depression in the U.S. have not received a diagnosis. A doctor may also misdiagnose depression in men. Men may be more likely to report physical symptoms, such as difficulty sleeping, than emotional changes. As a result, the doctor might give them the wrong diagnosis. Furthermore, people may misinterpret common emotional or behavioral signs of depression in men. They may see anger as a personality trait instead of a sign of depression. They may also misunderstand the reasons for a person’s increased risk-taking behavior or substance use. A 2013 study used criteria to adjust for the different ways in which men and women tend to experience depression. The researchers found that depression was equally prevalent among both genders. More research into depression and gender is necessary to confirm this.
When to see a doctor Anyone who notices the emotional, behavioral, or physical changes that we have discussed in this article may be experiencing depression. If this is the case, it is essential to see a doctor. The doctor can help diagnose a person’s depression and give them the right treatment to feel better. Leaving depression untreated can harm a person’s well-being. Depression is a risk factor for suicide. Therefore, it is vital that a person with depression receives help as soon as possible.
Treatment There are several ways to treat depression. Everyone responds to treatment differently, but a doctor can advise a person on which treatment may best suit their needs. Treatment options include: medication
talk therapy
cognitive behavioral therapy (CBT)
Coping strategies Share on Pinterest Talking to friends and family is a recommended coping strategy. Alongside other treatments, certain lifestyle changes and coping strategies can help a person manage depression. For example: Regular exercise : Running or even walking briskly outside can produce endorphins and lift a person’s mood.
: Running or even walking briskly outside can produce endorphins and lift a person’s mood. Creating structure : Sticking to a daily routine may help make each day feel a little easier.
: Sticking to a daily routine may help make each day feel a little easier. Breaking down tasks : When big tasks feel unmanageable, breaking them down into smaller tasks may help.
: When big tasks feel unmanageable, breaking them down into smaller tasks may help. Yoga, mindfulness, or meditation : These practices may reduce stress and support well-being.
: These practices may reduce stress and support well-being. Talking to friends and family : Sharing feelings with others may make them feel less overwhelming.
: Sharing feelings with others may make them feel less overwhelming. Avoiding alcohol: Reducing alcohol intake may improve mood.
How to help a loved one with depression If a person notices the signs of depression in a close male friend, partner, or family member, it is crucial to discuss this with them. Asking someone who may be experiencing depression how they are feeling is an excellent first step. Trying to be a good listener is important. Next, encourage them to make an appointment with their doctor. If they feel worried about discussing how they feel emotionally, remind them that they can start by talking about physical symptoms, which will often lead to a broader discussion about other symptoms. It is important to be patient when supporting someone with depression. Sometimes the behavioral signs of depression in men may cause relationship difficulties. Try discussing issues in a nonjudgmental way. A relationship counselor can help people improve their communication.
Where to look for help Anyone who thinks that they may have depression should see a doctor for help. The doctor may refer them to a mental health specialist so that they get the right treatment. Anyone who feels unsafe due to suicidal thoughts should call 911 or go to the hospital. If a person you are close to talks about suicide, do not ignore this. Speak to their doctor or mental health specialist or call the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline on 1-800-273-8255 or the Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration hotline on 1-800-622-4357 for advice. See the National Institute of Mental Health website for more ways to get help.
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Men's Health
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Painful ejaculation can happen as a result of prostate disorders, medication, sexually transmitted infections (STIs), and more. In some cases, pain may feel like a burning sensation. Some men feel embarrassed when ejaculation is painful, but it is a relatively common symptom. It is also highly treatable and can be the first symptom of another problem, such as swelling in the prostate. Various studies have found that between 1–10 percent of men experience this symptom. As many as 30–75 percent of men with a condition called prostatitis experience pain during ejaculation. In this article, we examine the symptoms and causes of painful ejaculation, along with what can be done to treat them.
Symptoms
Pain may occur during or following ejaculation and may be located in the penis, bladder, or rectum. The symptoms of painful ejaculation vary from man to man. They may also change over time. Some men only experience symptoms after having sex with a partner, but not when they masturbate. A few of the most notable symptoms include: pain during or immediately following ejaculation
pain in or around the penis, bladder, or rectum
pain that begins shortly before or after ejaculation
pain during urination, especially immediately after ejaculating The pain may last only a few minutes, or for up to 24 hours following ejaculation. It can be mild or very intense. For more research-backed information and resources for men’s health, please visit our dedicated hub. Was this helpful?
Causes A wide range of conditions can cause painful ejaculation. In most men, pain during ejaculation is due to a medical condition. Sometimes, doctors are unable to find a medical cause. When this occurs, some men may need support in the form of psychotherapy to manage their condition. Prostate disorders
Painful ejaculation may be linked to issues with the prostate. Most of the medical literature on painful ejaculation focuses on problems with the prostate. Prostatitis is one common cause. Men with prostatitis have swelling and inflammation of the prostate. This swelling is often due to a prostate infection. Prostatitis can also be caused by other issues, such as nerve damage or a urinary tract infection (UTI) that damages the prostate. Men with diabetes are more likely to experience nerve damage that causes prostatitis. A condition called benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH), which causes the prostate to enlarge, may also affect ejaculation. Men with BPH may also experience painful or difficult urination or frequent urges to urinate. Other prostate problems, including surgery on the prostate and prostate cancer, can also cause painful ejaculation. Medication Some medications can cause painful ejaculation. Antidepressants may cause a range of sexual issues, including changes in libido, erectile dysfunction (ED), and painful ejaculation . Relationship and emotional problems Depression, anxiety, and stress can radically change a man’s sex life. Likewise, problems in a relationship may manifest as physical symptoms, including painful ejaculation. Men who experience no pain when they masturbate may have painful ejaculation because of emotional or relationship problems. Seminal vesicle problems The seminal vesicle is a gland where sperm mixes with other fluids to make semen. Problems with this gland, particularly hard growths called calculi, can make ejaculation painful. Pelvic procedures Procedures on the genitals or in the pelvis, including pelvic radiation, can damage the prostate and other parts of the body that play a role in ejaculation. This damage can make ejaculation painful. Sexually transmitted infections A wide range of sexually transmitted infections (STIs) can make ejaculation painful. Men may notice a burning sensation when ejaculating, urinating, or both. Chlamydia and trichomoniasis are common culprits. Nervous system issues Disorders that affect the nervous system, such as diabetes, can damage the nerves associated with orgasm and ejaculation. Some physical injuries can also harm the nerves. Men with spinal cord injuries may experience a range of unusual sensations during ejaculation. Mercury toxicity Some case reports link mercury poisoning , often due to contaminated fish, with painful ejaculation. More research is necessary to determine the strength of this link.
Painful ejaculation and urination Some people who experience painful ejaculation may also experience painful urination. When this happens, the cause may be one of these underlying problems: prostatitis
BPH
trichomoniasis
chlamydia Many nerves and tissues are involved in both ejaculation and urination. As a result, any conditions, injuries, or procedures that affect this area of the body could result in painful ejaculation and urination.
Treatment
An examination may include questions about medications, relationships, and mental health. Treatment for painful ejaculation depends on the cause. An examination should begin with a complete medical history that includes questions about a man’s mental health and relationships. The doctor will ask about medications used currently and in the past, as well as any current or previous history of STIs. Comprehensive testing for STIs can also be helpful. A pelvic exam, including a prostate exam, can assess for prostatitis, BPH, and injuries. The doctor may also perform blood work to test for prostate-specific antigen (PSA). This substance tends to rise in men with certain prostate conditions, including prostate cancer. In most cases, treating the underlying cause also fixes symptoms of painful ejaculation. Some treatment options may include: antibiotics to treat a prostate infection or STI
switching medications if the culprit is a drug
surgery to treat prostate cancer and other prostate problems
psychotherapy and lifestyle changes to address relationship and emotional problems Nerve damage may be irreversible, but a doctor will probably still want to treat the underlying cause. Doing so can prevent nerve damage from getting worse. When treatment fails, or a doctor cannot figure out the cause, a man can try some alternative strategies that may reduce the pain. Some options include: sex therapy
pelvic floor exercises to strengthen the muscles involved in ejaculation
pain medication
muscle-relaxant medications
anticonvulsant medications
Complications Painful ejaculation is not dangerous, but it can undermine a man’s quality of life. Men who experience painful ejaculation may also report: loss of interest in sex
shame
relationship issues
self-esteem issues
fertility concerns
When to see a doctor Though painful ejaculation itself is not dangerous, some of the conditions that cause it are. Lower quality of life should also be taken seriously and warrants medical treatment. Men who experience painful ejaculation should see a doctor who specializes in genitourinary health or ejaculation dysfunction. Early treatment can prevent underlying conditions from getting worse. In many cases, the cause is both easily treated and completely reversible.
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Men's Health
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While anyone can develop diabetes, it produces several symptoms unique to men. Symptoms and signs of diabetes in men can include erectile dysfunction, reduced muscle mass, and more. The American Diabetes Association estimates that between 13.8 and 17 percent of men in the United States have diabetes. The condition can lead to erectile dysfunction, genital thrush, and loss of muscle mass. This article explores the differences between diabetes symptoms in men and women.
Diabetes symptoms in men Share on Pinterest Men with diabetes may experience erectile dysfunction. Many effects of diabetes are similar across the sexes. The condition causes damage to blood vessels and nerves. However, the main differences when diabetes occurs in men are the following: Erectile dysfunction: Up to 75 percent of men who have diabetes experience difficulties achieving or maintaining an erection. Nerves and blood vessels are vital to the process of an erection, and damage to these systems can impact the workings of the penis. Genital thrush: Men can experience repeated cases of genital thrush, a fungal yeast infection. Excess sugar in the blood gets passed in the urine. However, yeast thrives on sugar and is more likely to grow on the penis of a man with diabetes. Symptoms of genital thrush include: redness, swelling, and itching around the head of the penis
an unpleasant odor
a white, lumpy appearance to the skin of the penis
soreness and discomfort during sex Reduced muscle mass: Consistently raised blood sugar levels might lead to the body breaking down muscle and fat for energy. This is more common in men with type 1 diabetes and results in reduced strength and muscle weakness. Men’s health resources For more research-backed information and resources, visit our dedicated men’s health hub. Was this helpful?
Males and diabetes risk A 2016 study in BMJ Open found that men are at a high risk of diabetes after less relative weight gain than women are. The research analyzed 480,813 participants. The authors found that the men varied less in their body sizes than the women at the time of their diabetes diagnosis. The 2016 study also measured waist circumference, which has become the preferred indicator of health risks. The results showed: The circumference of the waist was 9cm larger in men with type 2 diabetes than in men who did not have the condition. The BMI was also 3 points higher.
The women would receive a diagnosis of type 2 diabetes after an average waist increase of 14 cm, or a BMI increase of 5. One way of interpreting the research is to say that men may get diabetes “more easily” than women and at a more predictable stage of fat gain The results of a 2011 study published in the journal Diabetologia are similar. The men with diabetes in this sample were less obese at the time of diagnosis than women. The lower fat threshold in men was most noticeable at younger ages. Older men and women with a diabetes diagnosis had more similar body sizes. A BMI of 30 or more indicates obesity. The 2011 study found that around the time of their diagnosis with type 2 diabetes, men had an average BMI of just under 32. Women had an average approaching 34. This means that women typically have a higher BMI level than men when they develop diabetes. A woman could carry a waist circumference five times that of a man before developing diabetes.
General signs of diabetes Share on Pinterest Increased thirst is a potential sign of diabetes. Alongside male-only symptoms of diabetes, the general symptoms of diabetes can occur in men and women of all ages. These include: increased thirst and hunger
passing more urine, and going more often
increased urination at night
increased hunger
tiredness
blurry vision
in type 2 diabetes, sores or cuts that do not heal
in type 1 diabetes, excessive weight loss before diagnosis Seek a consultation with a doctor if these symptoms occur. Over time, complications can develop as a result of long-term high blood sugar levels. These can cause damage to a range of systems, including: eye issues, such as diabetic retinopathy
foot problems
stroke and heart attack
nephropathy, or kidney issues
neuropathy, or damage to the nerves
certain cancers
diabetic ketoacidosis, a buildup of compounds called ketones that can be fatal unless a person receives rapid treatment Treatment for a complication of diabetes is often the first time a person discovers the condition, and they can be extremely dangerous. Men at risk of diabetes should have regular check-ups to catch and treat the condition as early as possible.
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Men's Health
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We include products we think are useful for our readers. If you buy through links on this page, we may earn a small commission. Here’s our process. How we vet brands and products Medical News Today only shows you brands and products that we stand behind. Our team thoroughly researches and evaluates the recommendations we make on our site. To establish that the product manufacturers addressed safety and efficacy standards, we: Evaluate ingredients and composition: Do they have the potential to cause harm?
Do they have the potential to cause harm? Fact-check all health claims: Do they align with the current body of scientific evidence?
Do they align with the current body of scientific evidence? Assess the brand: Does it operate with integrity and adhere to industry best practices? We do the research so you can find trusted products for your health and wellness. Read more about our vetting process. Was this helpful?
UTIs usually affect females, but males can also develop them. They often stem from a sexually transmitted infection (STI) and require treatment with antibiotics. A urinary tract infection (UTI) is a bacterial infection in the urinary system. Most UTIs affect the bladder and the urethra, which is the tube that drains urine from the bladder to outside the body. However, it can affect any part of the urinary system, including the kidneys and ureters. Although a UTI is one of the most common infections in women, it is rare in men. UTIs are estimated to affect around 3 percent of men worldwide each year. This means that most men will have never had a UTI, especially if they are young. When a UTI develops in men, it is usually considered complicated and more likely to spread to the kidneys and upper urinary tract. Some cases may even require surgery. We learn more about this condition, including its symptoms and treatment options, in this article. A note about sex and gender Sex and gender exist on spectrums. This article will use the terms “male,” “female,” or both to refer to sex assigned at birth. Click here to learn more. Was this helpful?
Symptoms Share on Pinterest A frequent urge to urinate is one of the symptoms of a UTI. Men with UTIs may have no signs or symptoms of the infection. However, when symptoms do occur, they can include: pain during urination
frequent urge to urinate
inability to start urinating
a slow urine stream or urine leakage
a sudden need to urinate
the release of only small amounts of urine at a time
blood in urine
pain in the central lower part of the abdomen
cloudy urine with a strong odor Men with complicated UTIs can also experience one or more of the following symptoms: fever
chills
nausea
vomiting
back pain These symptoms are signs that the disease has spread to the kidneys or the upper urinary tract. An infection that has spread here is a more serious problem that requires prompt treatment. For more research-backed information and resources for men’s health, please visit our dedicated hub. Was this helpful?
Causes and risk factors UTIs are caused by bacteria. Older men have a higher risk of having a UTI, especially if they are after the age of 50 . Most cases in older men are caused by the bacterium known as Escherichia coli, which is naturally present in the body. Cases similar to UTIs in younger men are typically caused by sexually transmitted infections (STIs). A UTI develops when the bacterium gets into the urinary tract through the urethra and starts multiplying. As men have longer urethras than women, they are less prone to UTIs because bacteria need to travel a longer distance to reach the bladder. UTIs are four times more common in women than in men. A person’s risk of developing a UTI increases if they have: diabetes
kidney stones
an enlarged prostate
an abnormal narrowing of the urethra
an inability to voluntarily control urination
an inability to empty the bladder completely
not drunk enough liquids
not been circumcised
a past diagnosis of a UTI
urinary tract abnormalities that prevent urine from leaving the body normally or cause urine to back up in the urethra
had anal intercourse, which can expose the urethra to bacteria
a health condition or taking medication that suppresses the immune system
had a procedure involving instrumentation on the urinary tract Examples of these procedures include the insertion of a tube to drain the bladder, or a small camera, known as a cystoscopy, to examine the bladder and urethra. Can men get UTIs from women? Men can get UTIs from women during sex, by getting the bacteria from a woman with the infection. However, this is unlikely. Typically, the infection arises from bacteria that are already present in the man’s body.
Diagnosis Share on Pinterest A physician may carry out a urine dipstick test to identify a UTI. A doctor can diagnose a UTI by carrying out a physical examination, taking a medical history, and through laboratory tests. Physical examination The doctor may perform a physical examination that includes: checking the vital signs
checking the abdomen, bladder area, sides, and back for pain or swelling
examining the genitals Medical history The doctor may ask if the person has had other UTIs in the past, or a family history of UTIs. They may also question the person about their symptoms. Laboratory tests Laboratory tests are required to diagnose the infection as the symptoms of a UTI can be common to other diseases. A urine sample is usually needed to look for the presence of pus and the bacteria causing the infection. Men may be asked to give a urine sample. A man will need to start the urine stream to clean the urethra, and then collect a midstream sample in a cup. As bacteria multiply quickly at room temperature, this urine sample is either sent to the laboratory immediately or kept refrigerated until later. The doctor may also ask for a urine test strip, also known as a urine dipstick test. This is a quick test in which a plastic or paper ribbon is dipped into the urine sample and then removed. If the person has a UTI, the ribbon will turn a particular color. To obtain the best results for this test, the doctor will probably request that a person does it first thing in the morning. Other medical exams For people with a history of kidney stones, diabetes, polycystic kidneys, or tuberculosis, the doctor may also require imaging exams.
Treatment UTIs in men are usually complicated and require treatment. The goal of treatment is to prevent the infection from spreading to the kidneys or the upper urinary tract. The type of treatment used depends on the cause of the infection. Treatment plans usually include antibiotic medications to kill the bacteria and drugs to reduce the person’s symptoms, including those of pain and burning while urinating. The duration of treatment can vary between 3 days and 6 weeks , depending on complicating factors, though a minimum of 7 days is usually warranted. Prescription medications Medication prescribed by a doctor may include: antibiotics, such as nitrofurantoin (Macrobid), fluoroquinolones, trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole (Bactrim), fosfomycin, or aminoglycosides
medications to reduce the fever
medications to reduce or eliminate pain, including urinary analgesics such as phenazopyridine Those with more complicated infections may require surgery. This can involve either draining areas of the urinary tract that are causing the infection, or removing inflamed areas of tissue.
Home remedies In addition to treatment from doctors, the following home remedies may help with treating an infection: Drinking plenty of liquids, especially water. This is important to stimulate urination and flush the bacteria from the body.
Drinking cranberry juice. Although it is not scientifically proven that cranberry juice is effective against UTIs, it contains substances that make it difficult for bacteria to stay in the urinary tract, helping to flush it out. Cranberry juice is available for purchase online.
Prevention Share on Pinterest Not drinking sufficient liquids raises the risk of a urinary tract infection. Men can take a series of actions to reduce the risk of getting a UTI, such as: emptying the bladder often
drinking plenty of liquids, especially water
carefully cleaning the area under the foreskin after showering if not circumcised
carefully cleaning the genitals before and after sex, to remove bacteria
cleaning from front to back when toileting
wearing condoms during sex. Condoms are available for purchase online.
purchase online. urinating after sex, to remove any bacteria that might have been passed during intercourse
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Men's Health
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We include products we think are useful for our readers. If you buy through links on this page, we may earn a small commission. Here’s our process. How we vet brands and products Medical News Today only shows you brands and products that we stand behind. Our team thoroughly researches and evaluates the recommendations we make on our site. To establish that the product manufacturers addressed safety and efficacy standards, we: Evaluate ingredients and composition: Do they have the potential to cause harm?
Do they have the potential to cause harm? Fact-check all health claims: Do they align with the current body of scientific evidence?
Do they align with the current body of scientific evidence? Assess the brand: Does it operate with integrity and adhere to industry best practices? We do the research so you can find trusted products for your health and wellness. Read more about our vetting process. Was this helpful?
Some males 50 years and over may benefit from taking a multivitamin to support their health and quality of life as they age. The best product will depend on individual age, medications, and health status. Share on Pinterest
How we chose Medical News Today chooses multivitamins for men over 50 that meet the following criteria: Ingredients : MNT chooses multivitamins containing safe and high quality ingredients that can benefit health, such as vitamins A, B, and C.
: MNT chooses multivitamins containing safe and high quality ingredients that can benefit health, such as vitamins A, B, and C. Dosage : MNT chooses multivitamins that must clearly state the supplement dosage and how it relates to an adult’s daily recommended intake.
: MNT chooses multivitamins that must clearly state the supplement dosage and how it relates to an adult’s daily recommended intake. Serving size : MNT selects multivitamins in which manufacturers recommend a safe dosage.
: MNT selects multivitamins in which manufacturers recommend a safe dosage. Third-party testing: MNT chooses products that must undergo third-party testing for contaminants by an ISO 17025-compliant laboratory.
MNT chooses products that must undergo third-party testing for contaminants by an ISO 17025-compliant laboratory. Available certificate of analysis: MNT chooses companies that demonstrate transparency and share a product’s certificate of analysis (COA) after receiving its third-party lab results. Medical News Todayfollows a strict product selection and vetting process. Learn more here. Was this helpful?
The best multivitamins for men over 50 The product options below: contain a wide range of vitamins and minerals
contain doses that are suitable for adult males
have undergone third-party testing for quality and safety Please note that the writer of this article has not tried these products. All information presented is purely research-based and correct at the time of publication. Best for traceable ingredients Ritual Essential for Men 50+ Multivitamin Capsules Form: capsule
Dose: 2 capsules per day
Certifications: third-party tested for purity and potency, non-GMO verified
Price: $39 $39 AT RITUAL *Price is accurate as of the date of publication. MNT 's review This multivitamin capsule contains 10 essential vitamins and minerals, including magnesium, vitamin K2, and boron. People can take out a subscription, and Ritual will deliver this product each month. A person receives 100% or more of the daily value (DV) for vitamin D, vitamin B12, and folate with this product. However, the levels of the other vitamins and minerals are lower. Ritual states that its multivitamins are traceable and that it includes the vitamin and mineral country of origin on its website. The company makes each bottle out of 100% recycled material. This product has a delayed-release design, and Ritual states that people should take two capsules per day. The company uses a third party to test its products for heavy metals, microbes, allergens, and other contaminants. Pros & cons suitable for vegans
free from major allergens, gluten, and GMO ingredients
delayed-released capsule may help support absorption
free shipping more expensive than some other brands
some vitamins and mineral content is low
some customers report an unpleasant aftertaste suitable for vegans
free from major allergens, gluten, and GMO ingredients
delayed-released capsule may help support absorption
free shipping more expensive than some other brands
some vitamins and mineral content is low
some customers report an unpleasant aftertaste Product details Active ingredient(s) : vitamin A (20% DV), vitamin D3 (250% DV), vitamin E (67% DV), folate (50% DV), vitamin B12 (667% DV), magnesium 14% DV), zinc (22% DV), boron 0.7 mg, omega-3 DHA 330 mg, vitamin K2 100 mcg Active ingredient(s) : vitamin A (20% DV), vitamin D3 (250% DV), vitamin E (67% DV), folate (50% DV), vitamin B12 (667% DV), magnesium 14% DV), zinc (22% DV), boron 0.7 mg, omega-3 DHA 330 mg, vitamin K2 100 mcg Best subscription Care/Of Men's Care Pack Form: tablets, softgels, and capsules
Dose: 6 pills per day
Certifications: non-GMO verified, certified gluten-free, facilities certified by NSF and GMP
Price: $56 $56 AT CARE/OF *Price is accurate as of the date of publication. MNT 's review The Care/of Men’s Care Pack contains four vitamins and minerals: probiotic blend, multivitamin, astaxanthin, and fish oil. Care/of is also a subscription service, meaning that customers can receive this vitamin pack every month. All the vitamins and minerals in the pack are gluten-free and non-GMO. They may suit some vegetarians, apart from the salmon oil. The astaxanthin and probiotic blend are vegan. Pros & cons the company claims it sources all ingredients sustainably
each product goes through third-party testing
people can personalize the supplements to their individual needs according to online reviews, some people experienced shipping delays
other people state the pills were more expensive with no additional benefit in comparison to more affordable options the company claims it sources all ingredients sustainably
each product goes through third-party testing
people can personalize the supplements to their individual needs according to online reviews, some people experienced shipping delays
other people state the pills were more expensive with no additional benefit in comparison to more affordable options Product details Active ingredient(s) : astaxanthin 6 mg, fish oil 1,000 mg, multivitamin (vitamin D3 1000 IU, vitamin K2 45 mcg, B12 methylcoalamin 2.4 mcg), probiotic blend 8 billion CFU Active ingredient(s) : astaxanthin 6 mg, fish oil 1,000 mg, multivitamin (vitamin D3 1000 IU, vitamin K2 45 mcg, B12 methylcoalamin 2.4 mcg), probiotic blend 8 billion CFU Best vegan Amazon Elements Men's One Daily Multivitamin Form: tablet
Dose: 1 tablet per day
Certifications: none
Price: $26.97 $26.97 AT AMAZON *Price is accurate as of the date of publication. MNT 's review This vitamin contains a botanical blend and 21 essential vitamins and minerals, including vitamin D, vitamin B12, and antioxidants, such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E, zinc, and selenium. Customers receive more than the DV for many of the vitamins and minerals in these tablets. However, for some vitamins, such as vitamin C, the tablets contain only some of the DV. The company manufactures its supplements in GMP facilities and tests them to ensure quality. The supplements are also gluten-free and vegan, and the company cultures 62% of the ingredients from whole food. Pros & cons suitable for vegans
free from gluten, chemical preservatives, and artificial colors and flavors
more affordable than some other options some customers state that the pills are large and can be difficult to swallow
others report the pills had an unpleasant taste and smell suitable for vegans
free from gluten, chemical preservatives, and artificial colors and flavors
more affordable than some other options some customers state that the pills are large and can be difficult to swallow
others report the pills had an unpleasant taste and smell Product details Active ingredient(s) (serving strength) : vitamin A 1500 mcg RAE (167% DV), vitamin C 60 mg (67% DV), vitamin D 25 mcg (125% DV), vitamin E 20.1 mg (134% DV), vitamin K 80 mcg (67% DV), thiamin 1.5 mg (125% DV), riboflavin 1.6 mg (123% DV), niacin 10 mg NE (63% DV), vitamin B6 2.2 mg (129% DV), folic acid 667 mcg DFE (167% DV), vitamin B12 6 mcg (250% DV), biotin 150 mcg (500% DV), pantothenic acid 5.4 mg (108% DV), calcium 15 mg (1% DV), iodine 75 mcg (50% DV), zinc 15 mcg (136% DV), copper 1.5 mg (167% DV), manganese 1 mg (43% DV), chromium 60 mcg (171% DV), molybdenum 60 mg (171% DV), Botanical Blend 100 mg (fenugreek powder, eluthero powder, astragalus powder, ginger powder, turmeric extract, organic oregano powder, hawthorn powder) Active ingredient(s) (serving strength) : vitamin A 1500 mcg RAE (167% DV), vitamin C 60 mg (67% DV), vitamin D 25 mcg (125% DV), vitamin E 20.1 mg (134% DV), vitamin K 80 mcg (67% DV), thiamin 1.5 mg (125% DV), riboflavin 1.6 mg (123% DV), niacin 10 mg NE (63% DV), vitamin B6 2.2 mg (129% DV), folic acid 667 mcg DFE (167% DV), vitamin B12 6 mcg (250% DV), biotin 150 mcg (500% DV), pantothenic acid 5.4 mg (108% DV), calcium 15 mg (1% DV), iodine 75 mcg (50% DV), zinc 15 mcg (136% DV), copper 1.5 mg (167% DV), manganese 1 mg (43% DV), chromium 60 mcg (171% DV), molybdenum 60 mg (171% DV), Botanical Blend 100 mg (fenugreek powder, eluthero powder, astragalus powder, ginger powder, turmeric extract, organic oregano powder, hawthorn powder) Best multivitamin pack Persona Men's Daily Essentials Form: capsules
Dose: 7 capsules per day
Price: $64.12 $64.12 AT PERSONA *Price is accurate as of the date of publication. MNT 's review This multivitamin pack contains several essential minerals and vitamins, including a multivitamin, spirulina, cordyceps, omega-3, and a daily probiotic. Persona states that this pack can help support mood, digestion, the immune system, and healthy aging. Some vitamins, such as C, D, and B all contain at least 100% of the DV. However, some vitamins and minerals, such as vitamins A and E, contain smaller amounts of DV. While Persona states this pack meets most nutritional gaps, people can also bundle other supplements in the same order. Pros & cons offers personalized supplements
offers support from trained nutritionists does not have transparent pricing for many products
can be very expensive offers personalized supplements
offers support from trained nutritionists does not have transparent pricing for many products
can be very expensive Product details Active ingredients : Proprietary Acidophilus blend (contains 3 billion live culture CFU), Lactobacillus acidophilus La-14, Bifidobacterium bifidum SD-5857, Lactobacillus salivarius Ls-33, Lactobacillus bulgaricus Lb-87, Omega-3 marine oil 500 mg, DHA 100 mg, DPA 25 mg, EPA 138 mg, Cordyceps 750 mg, organic spirulina 500 mg, vitamin A 300 mcg (33% DV), vitamin C 45 mg (50% DV), vitamin D 12.5 mcg (63% DV), vitamin E 2.2.5 mg (15% DV), vitamin K 60 mcg (50% DV), thiamin 7.5 mg (625% DV), riboflavin 2.5 mg (192% DV), niacin 8 mg (50% DV), vitamin B6 2.5 mg (147% DV), folate 578 mcg DFE (145% DV), vitamin B12 10 mcg (417% DV), biotin 150 mcg (500% DV), pantothenic acid 9 mg (180% DV), iodine 75 mcg (50% DV), zinc 2.5 mg (23% DV), selenium 25 mcg (45% DV), copper 0.5 mg (56% DV), chromium 30 mcg (86% DV), molybdenum 22.5 mcg (50% DV), potassium 15 mg (1% DV), astaxanthin 0.125 mg, lutein 0.813 mg, lycopene 0.813 mg, zeaxanthin 0.125 mg Active ingredients : Proprietary Acidophilus blend (contains 3 billion live culture CFU), Lactobacillus acidophilus La-14, Bifidobacterium bifidum SD-5857, Lactobacillus salivarius Ls-33, Lactobacillus bulgaricus Lb-87, Omega-3 marine oil 500 mg, DHA 100 mg, DPA 25 mg, EPA 138 mg, Cordyceps 750 mg, organic spirulina 500 mg, vitamin A 300 mcg (33% DV), vitamin C 45 mg (50% DV), vitamin D 12.5 mcg (63% DV), vitamin E 2.2.5 mg (15% DV), vitamin K 60 mcg (50% DV), thiamin 7.5 mg (625% DV), riboflavin 2.5 mg (192% DV), niacin 8 mg (50% DV), vitamin B6 2.5 mg (147% DV), folate 578 mcg DFE (145% DV), vitamin B12 10 mcg (417% DV), biotin 150 mcg (500% DV), pantothenic acid 9 mg (180% DV), iodine 75 mcg (50% DV), zinc 2.5 mg (23% DV), selenium 25 mcg (45% DV), copper 0.5 mg (56% DV), chromium 30 mcg (86% DV), molybdenum 22.5 mcg (50% DV), potassium 15 mg (1% DV), astaxanthin 0.125 mg, lutein 0.813 mg, lycopene 0.813 mg, zeaxanthin 0.125 mg Best general-purpose Centrum Multivitamin for Men Form: tablet
Dose: 1 tablet per day
Certifications: non-GMO verified, certified gluten-free, facilities certified by GMP
Price: $19.29 $19.29 AT AMAZON *Price is accurate as of the date of publication. MNT 's review This general-purpose multivitamin contains a wide range of essential vitamins and minerals, including vitamins D and B12 and zinc. The tablets contain gelatin, so they may not suit vegetarians. With this product, a person can get 100% of the DV for many nutrients in a tablet. However, while vitamin B12 and selenium levels are high, those of calcium and potassium are low. The company manufactures its supplements in GMP facilities and runs numerous quality checks. Pros & cons free from gluten and GMO ingredients
affordable option
some customers report the tablets are easy to swallow and do not taste bad contains gelatin, so it is not suitable for vegans or vegetarians
contains soy, which makes it unsuitable for people with a soy allergy free from gluten and GMO ingredients
affordable option
some customers report the tablets are easy to swallow and do not taste bad contains gelatin, so it is not suitable for vegans or vegetarians
contains soy, which makes it unsuitable for people with a soy allergy Product details Active ingredient(s) : thiamin 1.2 mg (100% DV), riboflavin 1.3 mg (100% DV), niacin 16 mg (100% DV), folic acid 200 mcg (83% DV), biotin 40 mcg (133% DV), pantothenic acid 15 mg (300% DV), calcium 210 mg (16% DV), iron 8 mg (44% DV), phosphorus 20 mg (2% DV), iodine 150 mcg (100% DV), magnesium 100 mg (24% DV), zinc 11 mg (100% DV), copper 0.9 mg (100% DV), manganese 2.3 mg (100% DV), chromium 35 mcg (100% DV), molybdenum 50 mcg (111% DV), chloride 72 mg (3% DV), potassium 80 mg (2% DV), vitamin A 1,050 mcg (117% DV), vitamin B6 2 mg (118% DV), vitamin B12 6 mcg (250% DV), vitamin C 90 mg (100% DV), vitamin D3 25 mcg (125% DV), vitamin E 20.3 mg (135% DV), and vitamin K 60 mcg (50% DV) Active ingredient(s) : thiamin 1.2 mg (100% DV), riboflavin 1.3 mg (100% DV), niacin 16 mg (100% DV), folic acid 200 mcg (83% DV), biotin 40 mcg (133% DV), pantothenic acid 15 mg (300% DV), calcium 210 mg (16% DV), iron 8 mg (44% DV), phosphorus 20 mg (2% DV), iodine 150 mcg (100% DV), magnesium 100 mg (24% DV), zinc 11 mg (100% DV), copper 0.9 mg (100% DV), manganese 2.3 mg (100% DV), chromium 35 mcg (100% DV), molybdenum 50 mcg (111% DV), chloride 72 mg (3% DV), potassium 80 mg (2% DV), vitamin A 1,050 mcg (117% DV), vitamin B6 2 mg (118% DV), vitamin B12 6 mcg (250% DV), vitamin C 90 mg (100% DV), vitamin D3 25 mcg (125% DV), vitamin E 20.3 mg (135% DV), and vitamin K 60 mcg (50% DV) Best chewable gummy SmartyPants Men's Formula Multivitamin Gummies Form: gummy
Dose: 6 gummies
Certifications: Clean Label Project, third-party tested for purity and potency
Price: $20.64 $20.64 AT AMAZON *Price is accurate as of the date of publication. MNT 's review This product provides good amounts of vitamin D, vitamin B12, and zinc. It also contains modest amounts of other essential nutrients, coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), and omega-3. The product comes in the form of chewable gummies, which some people may find easier to swallow than tablets. However, it is worth noting that they contain 6 grams of added sugar per serving. The company makes its products at FDA-registered GMP facilities. The gummies are non-GMO and free from common allergens. Pros & cons free from major allergens
the gummy form may be preferable for people who find it difficult to swallow tablets six gummies may be too large a serving for some people
each serving contains six grams of sugar free from major allergens
the gummy form may be preferable for people who find it difficult to swallow tablets six gummies may be too large a serving for some people
each serving contains six grams of sugar Product details Active ingredient(s) (serving strength) : vitamin A 270 mcg (30% DV), vitamin C 45 mg (50% DV), vitamin D3 40 mcg (200% DV), vitamin E 9 mg (60% DV), vitamin K 36 mcg (30% DV), thiamin 0.12 mg (10% DV), riboflavin 0.26 mg (20% DV), niacin 4 mg (25% DV), vitamin B6 1.7 mg (100% DV), folate 400 mcg DFE (100% DV), vitamin B12 4 mcg (167% DV), biotin 15 mcg (50% DV), choline 12 mg (2% DV), iodine 150 mcg (100% DV), zinc 11 mg (100% DV), selenium 14 mcg (25% DV), sodium 25 mg (1% DV); fish oil 510 mg, lycopene 126 mg, coenzyme Q10 60 mg, inositol 1 mg, vitamin K2 16 mcg Active ingredient(s) (serving strength) : vitamin A 270 mcg (30% DV), vitamin C 45 mg (50% DV), vitamin D3 40 mcg (200% DV), vitamin E 9 mg (60% DV), vitamin K 36 mcg (30% DV), thiamin 0.12 mg (10% DV), riboflavin 0.26 mg (20% DV), niacin 4 mg (25% DV), vitamin B6 1.7 mg (100% DV), folate 400 mcg DFE (100% DV), vitamin B12 4 mcg (167% DV), biotin 15 mcg (50% DV), choline 12 mg (2% DV), iodine 150 mcg (100% DV), zinc 11 mg (100% DV), selenium 14 mcg (25% DV), sodium 25 mg (1% DV); fish oil 510 mg, lycopene 126 mg, coenzyme Q10 60 mg, inositol 1 mg, vitamin K2 16 mcg Best gluten-free Nature Made Multi for Him Tablets Form: tablet
Dose: 1 tablet per day
Certifications: USP verified $7.12 AT AMAZON MNT 's review These tablets contain 100% of the DV for biotin and iodine. However, the amounts of most nutrients are significantly higher than the DV. In addition, this product provides less than 100% of the DV for calcium, magnesium, and vitamins A and K. Nature Made recommends that a person who is taking medication or having blood clotting issues consults a doctor before taking this product. Pros & cons one of the more affordable multivitamin options
some customers state the tablets are easy to swallow contains gelatin, so it is not suitable for vegetarians or vegans
offers above or below the DV for several vitamins and minerals one of the more affordable multivitamin options
some customers state the tablets are easy to swallow contains gelatin, so it is not suitable for vegetarians or vegans
offers above or below the DV for several vitamins and minerals Product details Active ingredient(s) (serving strength) : vitamin A 750 mcg (83% DV), vitamin C 180 mg (200% DV), vitamin D3 25 mcg (125% DV), vitamin E 22.5 mg (150% DV) , vitamin K 80 mcg (67% DV), thiamin 1.5 mg (125% DV), riboflavin 1.7 mg (131% DV), niacin 20 mg (125% DV), vitamin B6 4 mg (235% DV), folate 665 mcg DFE (167% DV), vitamin B12 18 mcg DFE (750% DV), biotin 30 mcg (100% DV), pantothenic acid 10 mg (200% DV), calcium 160 mg (12% DV), iodine 150 mcg (100% DV), zinc 15 mg (136% DV), selenium 70 mcg (127% DV), manganese 4 mg (174% DV), chromium 120 mcg (343% DV), molybdenum 75 mcg (167% DV) Active ingredient(s) (serving strength) : vitamin A 750 mcg (83% DV), vitamin C 180 mg (200% DV), vitamin D3 25 mcg (125% DV), vitamin E 22.5 mg (150% DV) , vitamin K 80 mcg (67% DV), thiamin 1.5 mg (125% DV), riboflavin 1.7 mg (131% DV), niacin 20 mg (125% DV), vitamin B6 4 mg (235% DV), folate 665 mcg DFE (167% DV), vitamin B12 18 mcg DFE (750% DV), biotin 30 mcg (100% DV), pantothenic acid 10 mg (200% DV), calcium 160 mg (12% DV), iodine 150 mcg (100% DV), zinc 15 mg (136% DV), selenium 70 mcg (127% DV), manganese 4 mg (174% DV), chromium 120 mcg (343% DV), molybdenum 75 mcg (167% DV) Best for calcium and magnesium Thorne Men's Multi 50+ Capsules Form: capsule
Dose: 3–6 capsules per day
Certifications: Therapeutic Goods Administration certified, NSF certified, CGMP certified
Price: $43.2 $43.2 AT AMAZON *Price is accurate as of the date of publication. MNT 's review Thorne states that these multivitamins are formulated for men over 50 and other individuals at low risk for iron deficiency. The multi-vitamins reportedly contain just the right levels of calcium and magnesium in an easily absorbable form, plus calcium, magnesium, B vitamins, including folate and B12, vitamins A,C, D, and E, zinc, chromium, selenium, and lutein. Thorne Men 50+ multivitamins do not contain iron or copper. Additionally, they do not contain any artificial flavors, gluten, dairy, or soy. A full does consists of six capsules a day and contains many times the percent daily value of many nutrients. Thorne states that it uses third-party product testing, but does not provide any certifications of these efforts for this specific formulation. Ground shipping is free in the lower 48 states. Pros & cons some user reviews found these vitamins easy to swallow
reportedly uses good quality ingredients
online reviewers said the vitamins were gentle on their stomachs contains iodine, which can trigger allergic reactions in some
the recommended dosage of six capsules could be off-putting for some
the recommended dosage contains extremely high levels of some utrients that might not be appropriate for some some user reviews found these vitamins easy to swallow
reportedly uses good quality ingredients
online reviewers said the vitamins were gentle on their stomachs contains iodine, which can trigger allergic reactions in some
the recommended dosage of six capsules could be off-putting for some
the recommended dosage contains extremely high levels of some utrients that might not be appropriate for some Product details Active ingredient(s) (serving strength) : vitamin A 2.63 mg (292% DV), vitamin C 850 mg (944% DV), vitamin D 25 mcg (125% DV), vitamin E 268 mg (1,787% DV), thiamin 40 mg (3,333% DV), riboflavin 11 mg (846% DV), niacin 160 mg (1,000% DV), vitamin B6 10 mg (588% DV), folate 1.7 mg (425% DV), vitamin B12 450 mcg (18,750% DV), biotin 400 mcg (1,333% DV), panthothenic acid 413 mg (8,260% DV), choline 35 mg (6% DV), calcium 240 mg (18% DV), iodine 225 mcg (150% DV), zinc 15 mg (136% DV), magnesium 180 mg (43% DV), selenium 200 mcg (364% DV), manganese 6 mg (261% DV), chromium 200 mcg (571% DV), boron 3 mg, lutein 144 mcg Active ingredient(s) (serving strength) : vitamin A 2.63 mg (292% DV), vitamin C 850 mg (944% DV), vitamin D 25 mcg (125% DV), vitamin E 268 mg (1,787% DV), thiamin 40 mg (3,333% DV), riboflavin 11 mg (846% DV), niacin 160 mg (1,000% DV), vitamin B6 10 mg (588% DV), folate 1.7 mg (425% DV), vitamin B12 450 mcg (18,750% DV), biotin 400 mcg (1,333% DV), panthothenic acid 413 mg (8,260% DV), choline 35 mg (6% DV), calcium 240 mg (18% DV), iodine 225 mcg (150% DV), zinc 15 mg (136% DV), magnesium 180 mg (43% DV), selenium 200 mcg (364% DV), manganese 6 mg (261% DV), chromium 200 mcg (571% DV), boron 3 mg, lutein 144 mcg Best for athletes Klean Athlete Klean Multivitamin Form: tablet
Dose: 2 tablets per day
Certifications: NSF Certified for Sport, non-GMO
Price: $38.07 $38.07 AT AMAZON *Price is accurate as of the date of publication. MNT 's review The product website states that this multivitamin was designed to meet the specific needs of athletes. The multivitamin contains a blend of vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients specially formulated to support muscle restoration, as well as training and competition. Key ingredients include vitamins A, C, D 3 , E, B 6 , and B 12 , essential minerals, trace elements, plus a proprietary blend of fruit and vegetable extracts. It also includes antioxidants not often included in other multivitamins, such as zeaxanthin, astaxanthin, and pterostilbene, along with the more common lutein and lycopene. The company’s blend of wild blueberry and strawberry extracts and spinach powder may have cardiometabolic benefits and support brain health. Klean states that the product is safe for vegetarians and does not contain gluten, GMO ingredients, or artificial sweeteners, flavors, or colors. Pros & cons free from gluten, GMOs, artificial sweeteners, flavors, or colors
NSF certified sport
some online reviewers said the pills were not hard to swallow and had minimal taste vitamin and mineral content can be either far above or far below the recommended daily value
somewhat more expensive than other multivitamins
some users said it upset their stomachs free from gluten, GMOs, artificial sweeteners, flavors, or colors
NSF certified sport
some online reviewers said the pills were not hard to swallow and had minimal taste vitamin and mineral content can be either far above or far below the recommended daily value
somewhat more expensive than other multivitamins
some users said it upset their stomachs Product details Active ingredient(s) (serving strength) : vitamin A 1,500 mcg (167% DV), vitamin C 120 mg (133% DV), vitamin D3 25 mcg (125% DV), vitamin E 67 mg (447% DV), thiamine 25 mg (2,083% DV), riboflavin 10 mg (769% DV), niacin 30 mg (188% DV), vitamin B6 10 mg (588% DV), folate 667 mcg DFE (167% DV), vitamin B12 250 mcg (10,417% DV), biotin 300 mcg (1,000% DV), pantothenic acid 25 mg (500% DV), choline 60 mg (11% DV), calcium 50 mg (4% DV), iodine 150 mcg (100% DV), magnesium 25 mg (6% DV), zinc 15 mg (136% DV), selenium 100 mcg (182% DV), copper 1 mg (111% DV), chromium 120 mcg (343% DV), molybdenum 100 mcg (222% DV), potassium 30 mg (<1% DV), Proprietary Blend 300 mg (wild blueberry extract, strawberry extract, spinach powder), inositol 25 mg, pterostilbene 10 mg, lutein 3 mg, lycopene 3 mg, zeaxanthin 1 mg, astaxanthin 1 mg Active ingredient(s) (serving strength) : vitamin A 1,500 mcg (167% DV), vitamin C 120 mg (133% DV), vitamin D3 25 mcg (125% DV), vitamin E 67 mg (447% DV), thiamine 25 mg (2,083% DV), riboflavin 10 mg (769% DV), niacin 30 mg (188% DV), vitamin B6 10 mg (588% DV), folate 667 mcg DFE (167% DV), vitamin B12 250 mcg (10,417% DV), biotin 300 mcg (1,000% DV), pantothenic acid 25 mg (500% DV), choline 60 mg (11% DV), calcium 50 mg (4% DV), iodine 150 mcg (100% DV), magnesium 25 mg (6% DV), zinc 15 mg (136% DV), selenium 100 mcg (182% DV), copper 1 mg (111% DV), chromium 120 mcg (343% DV), molybdenum 100 mcg (222% DV), potassium 30 mg (<1% DV), Proprietary Blend 300 mg (wild blueberry extract, strawberry extract, spinach powder), inositol 25 mg, pterostilbene 10 mg, lutein 3 mg, lycopene 3 mg, zeaxanthin 1 mg, astaxanthin 1 mg
Comparing the best multivitamins for men The table below compares the seven multivitamins for men over 50 explored in the section above. Price Type Daily dose Cost per daily dose Ritual $39 gel capsule 2 capsules $1.17 Care/of $56 various within a pack, including pills and softgels 2 multivitamin tablets and fish oil softgels daily, and 1 probiotic blend and astaxanthin capsule $1.87 Amazon Elements around $26.97 for 65 tablets tablet 1 tablet $0.45 Persona $64.12 for a 28-day supply varies within pack varies depending on the pack $2.29 Centrum around $19.29 for 200 tablets tablet 1 tablet $0.10 SmartyPants around $24.12 for a 30-day supply gummy 6 gummies $0.80 Nature Made around $13.59 for a 90-day supply tablet 1 tablet $0.15 Thorne around $43.20 for 180 capsules capsules 3–6 capsules $0.72– $1.44 Klean around $38.07 for a 30-day supply tablet 2 tablets $1.27 Nutritional comparison The following table compares all of the above products in-depth for their ingredient content: Ritual Care/of Amazon
Elements Persona Centrum SmartyPants Nature
Made Thorne Men 50+ Klean Multivitamin B. lactis N Y N N N N N N N L. rhamnosus N Y N N N N N N N L. acidophilus N Y N N N N N N N Ashwagandha N N N Y N N N N N Astaxanthin N Y N Y N N N N Y Astragalus powder N N Y N N N N N N Biotin N N Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Boron Y Y N N N N N Y N Calcium N Y Y N Y N Y Y Y Chloride N N N N Y N N N N Choline N Y N N N Y N Y Y Chromium N N Y Y Y N Y Y Y Coenzyme Q10 N N N N N Y N N N Copper N N Y Y Y N Y N Y DPA N N N Y N N N N N Eleuthero powder N N Y N N N N N N Fenugreek powder N N Y N N N N N N Folate Y N Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Ginger N N Y N N N N N N Hawthorn powder N N Y N N N N N N Iodine N N Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Iron N N N N Y N N N N Vitamin A Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vitamin B1 N N N Y N N N N Y Vitamin B2 N N N Y N N N N Y Vitamin B5 N N N Y N N N N Y Vitamin B6 N Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vitamin B12 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vitamin C N Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vitamin D Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vitamin E Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vitamin K Y Y Y Y Y Y Y N N Lutein N N N Y N N N Y Y Lycopene N N N Y Y Y N N Y Magnesium Y Y N N Y N Y Y Y Manganese N N Y N Y N Y Y N Molybdenum N N Y N Y N Y N Y Niacin N N Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Omega-3 DHA Y Y N Y N Y N N N Omega-3 EPA N Y N Y N Y N N N Oregano powder N N Y N N N N N N Pantothenic acid N N Y N Y N Y N Y Phosphorus N N N N Y N N N N Potassium N Y N Y Y N N N Y Riboflavin N N Y N Y Y Y Y Y Salmon oil N Y N N N N N N N Selenium N N Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Silica N Y N N N N N N N Spirulina N N N Y N N N N N Thiamin N N Y N Y Y Y Y Y Turmeric N N Y N N N N N N Zeaxanthin N N N Y N N N N Y Zinc Y N Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
How to choose multivitamins Before purchasing multivitamins, a person may consider the following factors: Cost: Some multivitamins are more expensive than others, and not all products contain the same number of supplements. Check the packaging carefully to ensure the best value for money.
Some multivitamins are more expensive than others, and not all products contain the same number of supplements. Check the packaging carefully to ensure the best value for money. Vitamin and mineral content: Not all multivitamin products contain the same selection or amount of vitamins and minerals.
Not all multivitamin products contain the same selection or amount of vitamins and minerals. Multivitamin form: Some multivitamins come in the form of a capsule, tablet, or chewable gummy. People may wish to consider purchasing a multivitamin that is easier to swallow.
Some multivitamins come in the form of a capsule, tablet, or chewable gummy. People may wish to consider purchasing a multivitamin that is easier to swallow. Subscription services: Some companies may offer a subscription service, delivering a monthly supply of multivitamins directly to a person’s home.
Some companies may offer a subscription service, delivering a monthly supply of multivitamins directly to a person’s home. Eco-friendly materials: Some companies use eco-friendly materials, such as 100% recycled bottles or biodegradable packaging.
Do men over 50 need a multivitamin? Multivitamins contain a range of vitamins and minerals that are essential for health. In many cases, a person can get these nutrients from eating a balanced diet and getting sunlight exposure. However, as people get older, they may need extra help getting enough vitamins and minerals. There are several reasons for this, including: Reduced absorption: According to the National Resource Center on Nutrition and Aging, 10–30% of older adults do not absorb vitamin B12 effectively. If a person is not absorbing enough nutrients from their food, taking a supplement may help.
According to the National Resource Center on Nutrition and Aging, 10–30% of older adults do not absorb vitamin B12 effectively. If a person is not absorbing enough nutrients from their food, taking a supplement may help. Medication: Some medications can deplete a person’s vitamin levels. For example, proton pump inhibitors and metformin can reduce levels of vitamin B12.
Some medications can deplete a person’s vitamin levels. For example, proton pump inhibitors and metformin levels of vitamin B12. Physical training: If a male over 50 years is physically active, they may need additional vitamins and minerals to support their training.
If a male over 50 years is physically active, they may need additional vitamins and minerals to support their training. Reduced mobility: If an individual has a disability or chronic condition, they may not be able to cook fresh foods from scratch or get outdoors easily. This might make it more difficult for them to get enough of some nutrients.
If an individual has a disability or chronic condition, they may not be able to cook fresh foods from scratch or get outdoors easily. This might make it more difficult for them to get enough of some nutrients. Limited diet: A person with dietary restrictions may not get all the essential nutrients from food and may benefit from taking a supplement.
A person with dietary restrictions may not get all the essential nutrients from food and may benefit from taking a supplement. Age-related chronic disease: Conditions such as osteoporosis may increase a person’s need for nutrients. However, while some people ma
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Men's Health
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This article explores how overactive bladder is caused in men and the best ways to treat it.
People with OAB also complain of having to go to the bathroom many times during the day, and may wake up frequently during the night to urinate.
Sometimes related symptoms show up. These can include:
The most common symptom experienced by people with overactive bladder, or OAB, is the uncontrollable urge to urinate. This may lead to accident or leaks.
Overactive bladder (OAB) is a urinary disorder that affects both males and females, with a range of common symptoms. In males, OAB can occur due to older age, or the prostate becoming larger.
For more research-backed information and resources for men’s health, please visit our dedicated hub.
Luckily, the symptoms of OAB can often be treated in one or more promising ways.
Symptoms of OAB can affect every aspect of a person’s life. People may find the disorder embarrassing, which can lead to them not seeking medical advice or solutions to the symptoms.
Symptoms of OAB in men have many other causes though, including:
One of the more common causes of OAB symptoms in men is the prostate getting larger. The prostate may simply get larger as men age, or may be a sign of a serious growth or prostate cancer . If the prostate grows enough, it can disrupt the flow of urine out of the urethra.
Between 11 and 16 percent of men experience OAB, and the symptoms are more likely to appear with age.
The first step in any treatment method is to be diagnosed by a qualified doctor.
The doctor will take a brief history about a person’s urinary tract health and any medical conditions or procedures they have had. Then a physical examination will be done.
Generally, these exams include:
a rectal exam to determine prostate health
neurological exam
sphincter exam
The doctor will also likely take a urine sample to analyze. They may ask questions about urinary habits, and may ask the patient to empty their bladder while being monitored on an ultrasound.
All of these methods are designed to figure out the exact cause of overactive bladder in order to correct it. From here, the next step may involve a number of treatment methods.
Lifestyle changes
Many people with overactive bladder find relief from symptoms through changing their diet and making some lifestyle choices.
While this will not solve all cases, it is seen as an important first step in treatment. Lifestyle changes should be made along with other treatments to help ensure success.
Diet tips
Share on Pinterest Removing or reducing carbonated beverages from the diet may help to treat OAB symptoms.
There are certain foods and drinks that can make symptoms of OAB worse. Removing these foods and drinks from a person’s diet, may help them support the treatment of these symptoms.
Reducing or eliminating caffeine and alcohol helps some people. Both substances are diuretics, meaning they cause the body to create more urine. This can simply add to the cycle of frequent urination.
Other things to limit when treating symptoms of OAB include:
carbonated beverages
aspartame and artificial sweeteners
cranberry juice, which is another diuretic
As well as limiting certain foods and drinks, cutting down on liquids consumed before bed can help reduce nighttime symptoms.
In addition, spicy foods and acidic foods like orange juice and tomato sauce can irritate the bladder and urethra on their way out. This may make symptoms worse in some patients.
An especially important factor for people with OAB is to make sure they are getting enough water.
Many patients with OAB automatically reduce how much liquid they drink to try and reduce their urine production, which does not actually help.
Reducing fluid intake can cause dehydration and makes urine more concentrated. Concentrated urine irritates the bladder, which can OAB make symptoms worse.
Tobacco use is also associated with OAB symptoms in both men and women. Reducing or eliminating smoking is seen as a positive change towards better bladder health.
Exercise
Pelvic floor exercises may also be helpful for some patients. During pelvic floor exercises, the patient tightens, holds, and then relaxes the muscles used to urinate.
To find the correct muscles, people can practice the exercise just after urinating. This helps as the memory of which muscle controls urination is fresh.
It is better to practice pelvic floor exercises after the bladder is already empty to ensure there are no leaks or accidents.
Bladder training
Share on Pinterest Bladder training may be recommended for people with OAB by resisting the urge to urinate until the bladder is full.
Doctors may also advise bladder training to help relieve symptoms like frequent urination.
The urge to urinate is caused by the bladder contracting. In people with OAB, this happens before the bladder is actually full, and leads to many unnecessary trips to the bathroom.
Bladder training is the process of resisting the urge to urinate in order to train the bladder to actually fill up before giving in to the urge.
Bladder training is done slowly. A person usually begins by resisting the urge to urinate for just a few minutes. They can then gradually increase the time up to an hour or more in between bathroom breaks.
Weight loss
Obesity is a direct risk factor for OAB symptoms. Excess weight puts pressure on the bladder and urethra, and may make symptoms worse in many cases.
Controlling weight is a direct way to help with symptoms of overactive bladder. This puts less pressure put on the bladder and urinary tract as the weight reduces.
Weight loss is considered a first line treatment for most overweight people who have symptoms of OAB.
Medical treatments
There are also a number of medical treatment options for OAB in men, in the form of prescription drugs.
In cases of OAB caused by an enlarged prostate, doctors usually recommend alpha-blockers. These help relax the surrounding muscles and improve the flow of urine through the urethra.
A 5-alpha reductase inhibitors may also be prescribed. This helps to reduce the size of the prostate over time. Drugs that help reduce spasms in the bladder, or reduce the urge to urinate as much, may also help with certain symptoms of OAB. These drugs include:
anti-cholinergics
anti-muscarinics
For some people, these drugs produce the desired results with little side effects. Others still feel as though they have the symptoms of OAB while on the drugs, or they may not reduce these symptoms enough.
Some people taking these drugs are also intolerant of their side effects, which can range from mild to more severe.
It is important for doctors to be certain of the cause of the symptoms before prescribing medications. The use of the drugs should be heavily monitored, and any side effects should be discussed with a doctor.
Nerve stimulation
There are some cases of OAB that can be helped by nerve stimulation.
Nerve stimulation involves putting a small electrode under the skin. Mild electrical currents are sent to the muscles involved in urination in the pelvis and lower back.
Research suggests that nerve stimulation is effective. It may be recommended as an early form of treatment in cases where people:
do not respond well to medication
are awaiting surgery
do not want surgery
Surgery
For people who find lifestyle changes, medication, and nerve stimulation are not working, doctors may consider surgery.
The surgeries involve correcting problems with the prostate, bladder, and urethra. This may include:
correcting the position of the urethra
relieving pressure on the urethra caused by extra weight
correcting the position of the bladder
In cases of enlarged prostate, sometimes a piece of the gland may be removed. Surgery tends to be seen as a last resort, or for special cases.
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Men's Health
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A person with erectile dysfunction will regularly find it difficult to attain or keep a firm enough erection to have sex. This can interfere with both sexual activity and quality of life, but help is available. A note about sex and gender Sex and gender exist on spectrums. This article will use the terms “male,” “female,” or both to refer to sex assigned at birth. Click here to learn more. Was this helpful? Some people will occasionally experience some difficulty with their penis becoming hard or staying firm. However, erectile dysfunction (ED) is often only a concern if satisfactory sexual performance is consistently impossible. The awareness that ED can be a treatable condition has increased since the discovery that the drug sildenafil, or Viagra, affected penile erections. However, people who have a problem with their sexual performance may be reluctant to talk with their doctor, seeing it as an embarrassing issue. ED is now well understood and there are various treatments available.
Treatment The good news is that there are many treatments for ED, and most people will find a solution that works for them. Drug treatments A person with ED can take a group of drugs called PDE-5 (phosphodiesterase-5) inhibitors. Most of these pills are taken 30 to 60 minutes before sex, the best known being the blue-colored pill sildenafil (Viagra). Other options are: vardenafil (Levitra)
tadalafil (taken on demand, or as a once-daily pill called Cialis)
avanafil (Stendra) PDE-5 inhibitors are only available by prescription. A doctor will check for heart conditions and ask about other medications a person is taking before prescribing them. Side-effects associated with PDE-5 inhibitors include: flushing
visual abnormalities
hearing loss
indigestion
headache Less commonly used drug options include prostaglandin E1, which is applied locally by either injecting it into the penis or inserting it down the opening of the urethra. Online pharmacies It is possible to buy treatments over the internet for ED. However, a person should be cautious when doing so. The United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has a consumer safety guide regarding online pharmacies. Before ordering, a person should check that their online pharmacy is licensed in the U.S., has a licensed pharmacist, requires a prescription, and offers direct contact with customer relation staff. People can check whether the pharmacy is licensed using the list of Verified Internet Pharmacy Practice Sites. The FDA also offers tips for spotting the dangers of an unsafe website, including watching out for the following: There is no way to contact the website by phone.
Prices are dramatically lower than those offered by legal online pharmacies.
Prescription drugs do not require a prescription for purchase, which is illegal.
Personal information is not protected. These illegal sites may send drugs of unknown quality and origin. They may even send the wrong drug or a dangerous product. Vacuum devices Vacuum erection devices are a mechanical way of producing an erection for people who do not want to use drug treatments or find they are not working. A person makes their penis rigid by using a vacuum pump sealed around it that draws up blood. The use of an accompanying band then prevents this blood from then leaving the penis. The lack of spontaneity with vacuum devices means that many people with ED find other treatments preferable. However, other treatments, such as oral medications, can also reduce spontaneity. Vacuum devices may also be susceptible to mechanical faults that affect their efficacy, such as poor seals. Surgical treatments There are several surgical treatment options available to patients, including penile implants. In this procedure, a doctor inserts a malleable or inflatable device into the penis. This surgery may help a patient reach and maintain erections if drug-based treatments have not worked. In very rare cases, a patient may undergo vascular surgery to treat ED. Typically a doctor will only recommend surgery only after exhausting all other treatment avenues. Do dietary supplements and alternative treatments work? No guidelines followed by doctors, nor any established sources of evidence, support the use of dietary supplements such as herbal pills. In addition to there being no evidence in favor of non-prescription alternatives for ED, alternative supplements and treatments may be harmful, and in some instances , fatal.
Symptoms People may not always successfully achieve an erection. If this happens occasionally, it is not considered a medical problem. However, if a person is consistently unable to achieve an erection, then they may have ED. There is no defined length of time frame over which a person must experience ED to receive a diagnosis. Some professionals suggest 6 months is suitable. However, ED does not only refer to a complete inability to achieve an erect penis. Symptoms can also include struggling to maintain an erection for long enough to complete intercourse or an inability to ejaculate. There are often emotional symptoms, such as embarrassment, shame, anxiety, and a reduced interest in sexual intercourse.
Exercises There are exercises a person can carry out to reduce the effects of ED. Research suggests that strengthening pelvic floor muscles through exercise can be a beneficial treatment for people with ED. Learn more about pelvic floor exercises here. Aerobic exercise, such as a jog or even a brisk walk, can also help the blood circulate better and can help improve ED in men who have circulation issues.
Tests The numerous potential causes of ED mean that a doctor will typically ask many questions and arrange blood tests. Such tests can check for heart problems, diabetes, and low testosterone, among other things. The doctor will also carry out a physical examination, including of the genitals. Once a doctor establishes a medical history, they will then do further investigation. One test, known as the “postage stamp test,” can help determine if the cause is physical rather than psychological. Men usually have 3 to 5 erections a night. This test checks for the presence of erections at night by seeing if postage stamps applied around the penis before sleep have snapped off overnight. Other tests of nocturnal erection include the Poten test and Snap-Gauge test. These methods provide limited information but can help guide a doctor’s choice of further tests.
Frequently asked questions Here are some frequently asked questions about erectile dysfunction. What causes a weak erection in a male? There are numerous possible causes of a weak erection or ED. These include physical causes affecting blood flow, such as atherosclerosis. Diabetes can also cause ED. In some cases, it may be due to psychological factors, such as depression or fear of intimacy. How do you fix erectile dysfunction? There are numerous treatments for ED. These can include: medications such as PDE-5 inhibitors
vacuum devices
surgery Treating an underlying cause may also help. A person’s doctor can help a person create a suitable treatment plan. What is the fastest way to cure erectile dysfunction? Taking PDE-5 inhibitors such as Viagra soon before sex can help a person maintain an erection. However, depending on the cause or the person’s underlying health conditions, a doctor may recommend other treatments such as testosterone therapy or surgery. How do you get hard again over erectile dysfunction? Viagra and other PDE-5 inhibitors can help a person with ED stay hard. A person may also consider using a vacuum device, which prevents blood from leaving the penis, in turn helping them to sustain an erection.
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Men's Health
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Worldwide, suicide — or taking one’s own life — is more prevalent among males than females. Suicide attempts, however, are more common among females. According to the American Foundation for Suicide Prevention (AFSP), in 2018, more than 48,000 people in the United States died by suicide, and there were an estimated 1.4 million suicide attempts. The AFSP also note that men were 3.56 times more likely to die by suicide than women that year. Suicide is preventable. With treatment and lifestyle changes, people can begin to feel better. They can learn to manage their symptoms and find joy in life again. Individuals who are at immediate risk of suicide or serious self-harm should seek help urgently by calling 911 or their local emergency number. In this article, we discuss male suicide in more detail. We list possible causes and risk factors and explain what to do if someone is at risk of suicide. Suicide prevention If you know someone at immediate risk of self-harm, suicide, or hurting another person: Ask the tough question: “Are you considering suicide?”
Listen to the person without judgment.
Call 911 or the local emergency number, or text TALK to 741741 to communicate with a trained crisis counselor.
Stay with the person until professional help arrives.
Try to remove any weapons, medications, or other potentially harmful objects. If you or someone you know is having thoughts of suicide, a prevention hotline can help. The 988 Suicide and Crisis Lifeline is available 24 hours a day at 988. During a crisis, people who are hard of hearing can use their preferred relay service or dial 711 then 988. Find more links and local resources. Was this helpful?
Causes and triggers Share on Pinterest With treatment and lifestyle changes, suicide may be preventable. There are many possible causes of suicide. Often, a combination of factors plays a role in the onset of suicidal thoughts and behaviors. Typically, people who think about or attempt suicide do so because they feel as though they can no longer cope with life. They may feel hopeless, helpless, worthless, or lonely, and they might believe that suicide is their only option. These feelings may arise as a result of many situations, including: military service
the breakdown of a relationship
financial or legal issues According to one study , other causes and triggers for suicidal thoughts and attempts may include: illness
physical discomfort
conflict with family or friends
the illness or death of a family member
loneliness Among males, specifically, one study indicates that significant triggers include: being single
retirement
unemployment Men’s health resources For more research-backed information and resources, visit our dedicated men’s health hub. Was this helpful?
Risk factors One of the most significant risk factors for suicide is being male. Studies suggest that females tend to attempt suicide more often than males but that males die by suicide more frequently than females. Researchers have suggested that this may be because males tend to use more lethal methods, such as firearms. Research indicates that suicide also has associated genetic risk factors. Other risk factors for suicide include: a personal history of suicide attempts
a history of experiencing physical or sexual abuse
having a mental health disorder, such as depression or bipolar disorder
having a medical condition, such as chronic pain or terminal illness, that increases the risk of depression
alcohol and drug misuse or abuse
having suicidal thoughts and access to means of suicide, such as firearms or medication
being gay, bisexual, or transgender and experiencing discrimination or not receiving support from others
a family history of mental illness, suicide, or substance abuse
the initial use of some antidepressant medications, especially among children and adolescents , although antidepressants are more likely to reduce suicidal risk in the long term Although having a mental health disorder, such as depression, is a risk factor for suicide, not everyone who attempts suicide will have a known mental illness. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) , 54% of those who died by suicide between 1999 and 2016 had not received a diagnosis of a mental health condition.
Warning signs Warning signs of suicide or suicidal thoughts among males include: extreme mood swings
talking about suicide, death, or dying
an increased use of alcohol or drugs
changes to a person’s eating or sleeping habits or other aspects of their usual routine
changes in personality, such as severe anxiety or feelings of hopelessness
isolating oneself from others
engaging in risky behaviors
acquiring a firearm or other means to die by suicide
giving away money or belongings
saying goodbye to people as if they will not see them again Not everyone will show signs of suicidal thoughts. Even when they do, the signs may be subtle. They can vary significantly from person to person. Learn more about the hidden signs of depression here.
Prevention Suicide is preventable. With immediate help and professional treatment, people can learn to deal with their thoughts and feelings and manage their symptoms. They can begin to find joy and build meaningful lives. For those at immediate risk People who are at immediate risk of suicide should call 911 or their local emergency number. Alternatively, they can contact a suicide hotline. In the U.S., people can contact the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline at 1-800-273-TALK (1-800-273-8255), which is available 24-7. For those with suicidal thoughts who are not at immediate risk Individuals who are not at immediate risk of suicide but are having thoughts of taking their own life should talk to someone, such as a: trusted friend or family member
doctor
mental health professional
minister or other spiritual leader It can also be beneficial to call the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline at 1-800-273-TALK (1-800-273-8255). Resources for those not in the U.S. include Befrienders Worldwide and the International Association for Suicide Prevention. Other methods of prevention People who have suicidal thoughts may find that taking the following steps helps lessen these thoughts: Seeking treatment and sticking to the treatment plan It is important to seek treatment for mental health issues, such as depression, anxiety, and substance misuse. Research indicates that men seek help for mental health disorders far less often than women. This difference may play a role in why men are more likely to die by suicide. Professional help, however, can alleviate symptoms of depression and reduce the risk of suicide. Males who are experiencing depression or thoughts of suicide should reach out to their doctor or a mental health professional. Taking things one step at a time Suicidal thoughts are temporary, but acting on them could be permanent. With support and treatment, the feelings can pass. Individuals can learn to deal with problems in their life. It is possible to recover from depression and stop having thoughts of suicide. Building a support network Support from others plays a valuable role in helping people overcome suicidal thoughts and feelings. Although it can be challenging to talk to others, it could be lifesaving. According to some research , some of those who have had suicidal thoughts but not acted on them chose not to do so because of the support of friends and family. It can, therefore, be helpful to build a network of trusted people who can offer support in difficult times. Other potential sources of support include support groups, places of worship, and community resources.
How to help others If a loved one is at immediate risk of suicide or has attempted suicide, seek emergency help by phoning 911. Do not leave the person alone until help arrives. Those who have a loved one who displays signs of suicidal thoughts or behaviors can help by: asking the person if they are thinking about suicide
listening to them without minimizing their concerns
sharing their own concerns with the person
encouraging and supporting them to seek professional help
offering to accompany them to treatment
trying to remove firearms and other means of suicide from their possession
checking in with them regularly to see how they are Supporting someone at risk of suicide can be extremely draining. It is important that caregivers look after themselves too. They may need to seek support from loved ones, support organizations, and mental health professionals. It is also important to practice good self-care, which involves eating a balanced diet, getting enough sleep, exercising regularly, and spending time engaging in enjoyable activities.
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Men's Health
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The female menopause marks the end of the female reproductive cycle. However, men experience a range of symptoms and changes while growing older, which some people compare to the effects of menopause. The condition appears in some literature as “andropause”. However, this label is misleading and the definition of the symptoms, causes, and treatments is still unclear. According to an article in the journal Social History of Medicine, the male menopause, or andropause, was a much-discussed topic from the late 1930s to the mid-1950s, but modern researchers advise that without clear boundaries, andropause is not a useful diagnosis. However, aging still produces effects within the male body, including testosterone levels that regularly reduce. In this article, we examine the effects of aging on hormones in men and steps that can be taken to reduce the impact of aging on men’s health.
Is “male menopause” real? Share on Pinterest Men experience a range of physical changes when aging, but they do not qualify as a form of menopause. While advancing in age does have effects on the levels of sex-specific hormones in men, relating the process to female menopause is not accurate. Some researchers instead associate the symptoms with a condition called androgen decline in the aging male (ADAM), or late-onset hypogonadism. This occurs naturally when the gonads, or organs that produce sex cells, begin to age and lose function. The condition affects only 2.1 percent of males, while menopause is a natural part of female sexual development. This prevalence increases with age but is still not a standard step in male development. A doctor will suggest a diagnosis of late-onset hypogonadism when a man demonstrates three sexual symptoms and has androgen levels lower than 11 nanomoles per liter (nmol). For more research-backed information and resources for men’s health, please visit our dedicated hub. Was this helpful?
Symptoms Menopause in women marks a sharp drop in estrogen and progesterone, the main female reproductive hormones, decline considerably in a relatively short period of time. The symptoms of conditions that people often label as male menopause emerge more slowly and subtly and less severely than in menopause. The decrease in the levels of male hormone, or testosterone, is less severe than the drop in hormone levels for women throughout menopause. The varied signs and symptoms some people attribute to male menopause include: hot flashes
moodiness and irritability
fat build-up around the abdomen and the chest
loss of muscle mass
dry, thin skin
excessive sweating A study in the New England Journal of Medicine (NEJM) identifies the most common symptoms of male menopause as decreased libido, a lower frequency of morning erections, and erectile dysfunction. The study lists other symptoms that include a loss of energy, an inability to walk more than 1 kilometer, or 0.62 miles, and difficulties completing strenuous physical tasks, such as running or lifting heavy objects. Kneeling, bending, and stooping might also become more difficult. Depression and fatigue might also set in as a result of the change in male hormone levels.
Causes After a man reaches the age of 30 years, testosterone levels gradually decrease, falling an average of one percent each year. However, doctors do not believe that the normal, age-related decline of testosterone levels is at the center of male menopause symptoms. Were this related to the symptoms, every man would experience them, which is not the case. Share on Pinterest A lack of exercise can lead to decreasing testosterone in older men. This condition is complex and can produce different symptoms in different people. While these symptoms often occur in older men with declining testosterone levels, they tend to occur in older males with heart disease, obesity, high blood pressure, and type 2 diabetes. This suggests that changing levels of male hormones are not the sole contributor to this condition. Other risk factors include underlying health problems, such as: lack of exercise
smoking
alcohol consumption
stress
anxiety
sleep deprivation Erectile dysfunction may be the result of changes in the blood vessels or a nerve problem. Some men experience the psychological impact of a “mid-life crisis,” in which they become concerned about professional and personal milestones. This can be a cause of depression, which can trigger a range of factors leading to the physical symptoms of ADAM. A lack of sleep, poor diet and lack of exercise, smoking and alcohol consumption, and low self-esteem may also contribute. Hypogonadism is a condition in which the testes do not produce enough hormones. In younger males, this can lead to delayed puberty. If it develops at an older age, possibly linked to obesity or type 2 diabetes, the symptoms of ADAM may occur.
Diagnosis One study describes how the male menopause became medicalized, not as a result of scientific research but “a model perpetuated by lay people and medical popularizers.” A physician is not likely to diagnose male menopause. It represents a set of symptoms on which there is little agreement. These symptoms may occur due to a range of lifestyle factors or underlying diseases.
Treatment Since the condition has no clear definition, men who experience these physical changes will receive treatment according to their symptoms. A person with obesity will receive support for weight management and an exercise regimen. They might also have to adjust their food intake and engage with a well-balanced and nutritious diet. Share on Pinterest Careful dietary management can reduce the effects of aging in men. People with diabetes and cardiovascular disease will require appropriate management for the underlying condition. Controlling blood glucose levels appears to reduce symptoms. The doctors will carry out a detailed check-up on discovered symptoms such as erectile dysfunction and fatigue to detect any cardiovascular disease, including blood tests and scans. They may refer an individual with signs of depression or anxiety to a psychologist or psychiatrist, who can prescribe antidepressants, psychotherapy, or both. A doctor may recommend testosterone therapy but the effectiveness of this treatment is not clear. Testosterone therapy might increase the risks of a blockage in the urinary tract and prostate cancer. It may also aggravate ischemic heart disease, epilepsy, and sleep apnea. The FDA ruled in 2015 that many testosterone and vitamin supplements claiming to support male menopause often do not contain the advised components and may increase the risk of developing prostate cancer and cardiovascular issues. Speak to a doctor about managing the symptoms of aging and age-related disease.
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Men's Health
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Low testosterone levels in males can lead to erectile dysfunction. They can also affect sleep, mood, the size of the testicles, and more. In both males and females, low testosterone can lead to lower bone mass and reduced sex drive. Testosterone is a sex hormone often associated with males, though females have small amounts. It has many important functions, including: the development of the bones and muscles
the deepening of the voice, hair growth, and other factors related to appearance
the production of sperm Testosterone production can slow as a person ages, and many older people experience symptoms of low testosterone. The American Urological Association defines low testosterone as less than 300 nanograms (ng) of the hormone per deciliter (dl) of blood. They also report that about 2 in every 100 men have low testosterone. A note about sex and gender Sex and gender exist on spectrums. This article will use the terms “male,” “female,” or both to refer to sex assigned at birth. Click here to learn more. Was this helpful?
Low testosterone does not always present symptoms, and some people only learn about it after a routine physical examination with blood work. However, anyone who experiences one or more of the above symptoms should seek medical attention.
Diagnosis To diagnose low testosterone, a doctor will often perform a physical evaluation and review the person’s symptoms. The doctor may also request testing to look for additional signs. For example, a bone density test can show diminished bone mass, one result of low testosterone.
Treatment The most common treatment is testosterone replacement therapy (TRT). A doctor will typically only prescribe TRT if the person has several symptoms of low testosterone and blood test results that indicate a deficiency. There are several delivery methods of TRT, including : skin patches
gels
tablets that dissolve in the mouth
injections
surgically implanted pellets that release the hormone Most people will notice relief from symptoms within 3–60 weeks of starting TRT. This can vary depending on the symptom.
Frequently asked questions Below are some commonly asked questions about low testosterone. Can low testosterone cause diabetes? Studies show that low testosterone levels in men are a risk factor for type 2 diabetes, the most common form of diabetes. Testosterone helps the body’s cells increase glucose, or blood sugar, in response to insulin, a hormone that regulates glucose. Reduced testosterone can affect insulin resistance. This can cause the body to produce more insulin to keep glucose levels normal. When the cells are full of glucose, the body stores the excess in fat cells, which may lead to conditions such as type 2 diabetes and obesity. Does a person consult a urologist or endocrinologist for low testosterone? A primary care physician may refer an individual to a urologist, who specializes in diseases of the male reproductive system, or to an endocrinologist who specializes in hormone-related diseases. Does low testosterone affect fertility? About 15% of men with fertility problems have low testosterone levels. However, low testosterone does not cause infertility. In people with fertility problems, low testosterone may be a symptom of a testicular function issue causing infertility rather than a cause of infertility itself. For example, testicular atrophy can cause infertility and also reduce a person’s testosterone levels. In this instance, the low testosterone levels are a symptom of an underlying condition, not a cause of infertility. Is low testosterone genetic? Genetic variants that affect the Y chromosome and the sex hormone-binding globulin may result in a higher risk for low testosterone. SHBG is a protein that helps deliver testosterone to the body’s tissues. Rare genetic disorders such as Klinefelter syndrome, where males have an extra X chromosome, may also affect testosterone production. A 2021 study identified 141 new genetic markers that may assist in determining the risk for low testosterone.
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Men's Health
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In some cases, sexually transmitted diseases (STDs) or infections (STIs) cause no noticeable symptoms. When they do occur, STI symptoms in men can include discharge, bleeding, painful blisters, and more. It is crucial for everyone who is sexually active to be aware of STD and STI symptoms. When a person with an STI receives treatment early, the outlook is usually excellent. In this article, we look at some of the most common STIs in males. We also explore the symptoms, signs, treatments, and best methods of prevention.
Signs and symptoms of STIs in males Share on Pinterest According to the World Health Organization (WHO) , people contract more than 1 million STIs every day, globally. In some cases, an STI causes no noticeable symptoms, so it is possible to have one without knowing it. It may also be easy to mistake STI symptoms for those of another issue. Below, learn about common STIs and how they affect males.
Chlamydia Chlamydia is a bacterial STI that passes from person to person through anal, oral, or vaginal sex without a condom. In a male, chlamydia can develop in the urethra, rectum, or throat. Some call chlamydia a “silent” infection because people are often unaware that they have it. The majority of these infections in males cause no symptoms. If symptoms do occur in males, they arise several weeks after the infection develops. Common symptoms of chlamydia in the urethra include: discharge from the penis
pain when urinating
burning or itching around the opening of the penis
pain and swelling in one or both testicles Chlamydia in the rectum is less common and usually causes no symptoms, but it can cause: rectal pain
bleeding
discharge Rarely, chlamydia develops in the epididymis, the tube that carries sperm from the testicles. This can cause: a fever
pain
in rare cases, fertility issues Diagnosis To test for this issue, a healthcare provider usually asks for a urine sample, but they may use a cotton swab to get a sample from the urethra instead. Treatment Treating chlamydia with oral antibiotics is relatively straightforward. It may involve taking a single dose or a 7-day course of an antibiotic. Repeat infections are common, however, so it is a good idea to have another test after completing the treatment. Men’s health resources For more research-backed information and resources, visit our dedicated men’s health hub. Was this helpful?
Herpes Herpes is an infection with the herpes simplex virus (HSV). There are two types of the virus, and they tend to affect different parts of the body HSV–1, also called oral herpes, causes cold sores in and around the mouth.
HSV–2 almost always passes on through sex without a condom and causes genital herpes. Many people with herpes have no symptoms, and others may have difficulty identifying their symptoms. Mild herpes blisters can resemble insect bites, ingrown hairs, or razor burn. If they do arise, the symptoms typically appear 2–12 days after the infection develops. Common symptoms of herpes in males include: painful blisters or open sores in or around the mouth
blisters on the genitals, rectum, buttocks, or thighs
tingling, itching, or burning sensations around the blisters
sore muscles in the lower back, buttocks, and upper legs
a fever
a loss of appetite Diagnosis To diagnose herpes, a doctor can use a blood test or a polymerase chain reaction test. The latter involves checking for signs of the infection in the person’s DNA, and it can be especially useful when the person has no visible symptoms. If a person has visible sores on or around their genitals, a doctor can test for herpes using a cell culture. This involves collecting a sample of the fluid inside one of the sores. Treatment There is no cure for herpes, and outbreaks of symptoms can reoccur over time. Treatments focus on managing the symptoms and extending the time between outbreaks.
Gonorrhea Share on Pinterest Gonorrhea is an infection with Neisseria gonorrhoeae bacteria. It can develop in the urethra, rectum, or throat, and the bacteria can transmit through vaginal, anal, or oral sex without a condom. Most males with gonorrhea have no symptoms. When gonorrhea in the urethra does cause symptoms, they usually appear 1–14 days after the infection has developed. Symptoms of gonorrhea in males include: painful urination
white, yellow, or gray discharge from the urethra
pain in the testicles
itching and soreness in the anus
painful bowel movements
bloody discharge from the anus Diagnosis First, the doctor asks the person about their symptoms and medical history. Next, they order a test, which might involve a urine sample or a swab of the penis, urethra, anus, or throat. Home testing kits are also available. They involve taking a sample and sending it to a lab, which returns the results to the person directly. If the result is positive, the person needs to see a doctor for treatment. It is worth noting, however, that the doctor may wish to do another test to confirm the diagnosis. Treatment Healthcare providers can treat gonorrhea with antibiotics. These can stop the infection from progressing, but they cannot reverse any damage already done. For this reason, anyone with symptoms of the infection or likely exposure to it should see a healthcare provider for testing right away. The medical community is becoming increasingly concerned about the rise of antibiotic resistant gonorrhea. This resistance makes successful treatment much more difficult, if not impossible.
Syphilis Bacteria are also responsible for syphilis, which transmits through vaginal, anal, or oral sex without a condom. Men who have sex with men (MSM) have a higher risk of contracting syphilis. Almost 70 percent of primary and secondary syphilis diagnoses in 2017 were in MSM. Syphilis is also known as “The Great Pretender” because its symptoms can resemble those of other diseases. Symptoms usually appear 10–90 days after infection, with 21 days being the average. The symptoms of syphilis progress in stages known as primary, secondary, latent, and tertiary. Each stage has its own unique set of symptoms that can last for weeks, months, or even years. The symptoms of primary syphilis include: a small, firm sore where the bacteria initially entered the body, usually on the penis, anus, mouth, or lips
sores can also appear on the fingers or buttocks
swollen lymph nodes in the neck, groin, or armpits Secondary syphilis can cause the following signs and symptoms: skin rashes on the palms of the hands or soles of the feet
large gray or white lesions in the mouth, anus, armpit, or groin
fatigue
headaches
a sore throat
swollen lymph nodes
hair loss
muscle aches The latent, or “hidden,” stage of syphilis, during which there are no visible symptoms, can last for several years. Tertiary syphilis is very rare. It can cause severe health complications that affect multiple organ systems. The symptoms of tertiary syphilis include: meningitis
stroke
dementia
blindness
heart problems
numbness Diagnosis Healthcare providers are likely to run blood tests or examine some of the fluid from a sore to check for syphilis. Treatment A healthcare provider may recommend an antibiotic called benzathine benzylpenicillin to treat primary, secondary, and early latent syphilis. People who are allergic to penicillin will need to use a different antibiotic, such as doxycycline or azithromycin. Although antibiotics will prevent the infection from progressing, they cannot repair any permanent damage resulting from the infection.
HPV Share on Pinterest People also use the term “HPV” to refer to the infections that these viruses cause. HPV is a common STI that typically affects people in their late teens and early 20s. Males with HPV may never develop symptoms, or the symptoms may arise months or even years after the infection develops. The most common symptoms of HPV in males are warts in the mouth or throat and genital warts — small bumps around the penis or anus. HPV is unusual among STIs because vaccines can prevent it. These are Gardasil and Cervarix, and they are effective against HPV types 16 and 18, high-risk strains that can lead to certain types of cancer. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommend that children aged 11–12 years receive the HPV vaccine and that all males up to the age of 45 years get vaccinated if they have not yet done so. Diagnosis There is currently no HPV screening or tests for males. A healthcare provider may be able to make a diagnosis based on any genital warts that are present. Treatment Most cases of HPV resolve without treatment and cause no complications. However, if the infection persists, and the person does not receive treatment, it can lead to problems, including certain types of cancer. No HPV treatment has received formal approval, but there are ways to manage any symptoms and complications. For example, topical and oral medications can treat genital warts.
HIV HIV is a virus that attacks the body’s immune cells. It spreads through some, but not all, bodily fluids, including semen, vaginal and anal fluids, and blood. Having sexual intercourse without a condom is the most common method of transmission. Many people with HIV experience flu-like symptoms within 2–6 weeks of developing the infection. Common symptoms of HIV in males are: a fever
a sore throat
a rash
headaches Other symptoms may include: fatigue
joint and muscle pain
swollen lymph nodes
nausea and vomiting Diagnosis Doctors can test a person’s blood for HIV antibodies. They perform the test more than once before confirming a positive result. Home testing kits are also available. Current HIV tests make it possible to detect HIV in under 2 weeks. People with known risk factors should undergo testing more often. Treatment While there is no cure for HIV, treatments can prevent symptoms and transmission. They can also keep the infection from progressing to cause AIDS. The treatments are called antiretroviral therapy, and they reduce the amount of the virus in the body. When the amount is so low that a test cannot detect it, this eliminates the risk of transmitting HIV.
Hepatitis B Hepatitis is inflammation of the liver, often due to a viral infection. One of the most common hepatitis viruses is the hepatitis B virus (HBV). It can pass on through blood, semen, and some other bodily fluids. Healthcare providers classify each HBV infection as either acute, meaning that it is temporary and will last for a few weeks, or chronic, in which case it is a severe, lifelong condition. Most people with hepatitis B have no symptoms. People with symptoms may easily mistake them for those of cold or flu, and they tend to appear about 90 days after the HBV infection develops. Hepatitis B signs and symptoms include: a fever
fatigue
a loss of appetite
abdominal pain
nausea
vomiting
muscle and joint pain
jaundice, which causes dark urine and yellowing of the skin and the whites of the eyes A vaccine can prevent hepatitis B, and the WHO recommend that all infants receive at least three doses of this vaccine. Diagnosis Healthcare providers look for signs of liver damage, such as jaundice. Some tests that can help diagnose hepatitis B include: blood tests
a liver ultrasound
a liver biopsy Treatment There is currently no treatment for acute hepatitis B. Medications can treat chronic hepatitis B, and research in this area is ongoing. People with chronic hepatitis B need regular checkups for signs of liver disease.
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Men's Health
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Early symptoms of cancer in males can include changes in bowel habits, the testicles, and urination. However, the signs will depend on the type of cancer. In some cases, symptoms do not appear until a later stage. According to the National Cancer Institute (NCI), males are more likely to die from cancer than females in the United States. Some people may not notice the early signs of cancer or may confuse them for symptoms of other conditions. Knowing which symptoms may indicate cancer can help a person get treatment sooner. Symptoms that could be indicative of cancer include: Changes in bowel habits Urination difficulties Weight loss testicular changes Breast lumps Skin and mouth sores Persistent cough Abdominal pain Bone pain Fatigue This article explores in more detail these 10 common early warning signs of cancer in males. Some of them can also apply to females. To learn more about cancer in females, click here. A note about sex and gender Sex and gender exist on spectrums. This article will use the terms “male,” “female,” or both to refer to sex assigned at birth. Click here to learn more. Was this helpful?
3. Weight loss Minor changes in body weight can occur throughout the day. Large meals, intense workouts, and drinking water can temporarily affect a person’s body weight. However, people who experience unintentional weight loss should speak with a doctor. A 2017 study defines unintentional weight loss as a person losing more than 5% of their body weight in less than 12 months without making any dietary or lifestyle changes. Unintentional weight loss does not necessarily mean that a person has cancer. However, people should not ignore this symptom as it can be a warning sign of many different health conditions.
4. Testicular changes According to the National Institute of Health (NIH) , testicular cancer is one of the most common cancers in males ages 15-45 years. Testicular cancer does not always cause symptoms in the early stages. The first noticeable sign is often a lump on a testicle. Other symptoms of testicular cancer can include: pain in one or both testicles
changes in the size or firmness of a testicle
pain or numbness of the scrotum
swelling of the scrotum
a dull ache in the groin Testicular changes do not always indicate testicular cancer. Bacterial and viral infections can also cause swelling and pain in the testicles. However, it is still important for anyone who notices changes in their testicles to see a doctor.
5. Breast lumps Although it is rare, males can also get breast cancer. About 1% of breast cancer cases occur in males. Below the nipples, males have a small amount of breast tissue that contains ducts. Breast cancer in males often begins in these ducts and spreads to the surrounding breast tissue. Breast changes that can indicate cancer include: a swelling or lump
dimpling of the skin
nipple discharge
scaling or redness
an inverted nipple Males who notice any of these changes in their breasts should speak to their doctor.
6. Skin and mouth sores Some forms of skin cancer may look similar to other types of skin sores. In the early stages, skin cancer can present as firm red bumps that bleed or develop a dry, scaly top. Early-stage oral cancer can cause large red lesions or open sores in the mouth. Some people develop leukoplakia, a condition in which white or gray patches occur on the inside of the mouth and the tongue. If they do not receive treatment, leukoplakia can progress into oral cancer. Tobacco use can significantly increase a person’s risk of developing mouth sores, leukoplakia, and oral cancer.
8. Abdominal pain Persistent or recurring abdominal pain or nausea can indicate a digestive issue, such as IBS or gastroenteritis. These symptoms can also sometimes occur due to either stomach, bile duct, or pancreatic cancer. If a person experiences stomach pain along with any of the following symptoms, they may want to get evaluated by a doctor. unexplained weight loss
loss of appetite
nausea or vomiting
blood in the stool
fatigue
jaundice
heartburn
9. Bone pain Some types of cancer, such as prostate and lung cancer, can spread to the bones. This spreading, which is called metastasis, occurs in the more advanced stages of cancer. Bone metastasis can cause a dull, aching pain that may initially come and go before remaining constant. Cancer can also weaken bones, making them more prone to fractures.
10. Fatigue Fatigue describes a constant feeling of tiredness or lack of energy. Many chronic conditions, including cancer, can cause fatigue. Some cancers, such as leukemia and lymphoma, can disrupt the production of red blood cells, which transport oxygen throughout the body. People who have a low red blood cell count may experience fatigue due to less oxygen circulating in the body. Tumors compete with healthy cells for essential nutrients, and healthy cells will die if they cannot get enough nourishment. Uncontrolled tumor growth can cause fatigue and rapid weight loss. Fatigue from cancer does not improve with sleep. People who experience persistent, unexplained fatigue should speak to their doctor.
Notable early symptoms in males There are some early symptoms that may be notable for specific types of cancers in males. Most cancers are treatable. The earlier a person receives a diagnosis, the better their outcome is likely to be. Some types of cancer may not cause noticeable symptoms until the later stages when the disease spreads to other body parts. However, staying vigilant and being aware of bodily changes can help people get a diagnosis sooner. Early diagnosis and treatment generally improve a person’s outlook for most cancers. People should see a doctor if they have any of the following symptoms: abnormal moles
lumps in the breast
a persistent cough
hoarseness
blood in sputum
bloody stool
blood in urine or semen
unintentional weight loss
chest pain
bone pain
chronic headaches
Frequently Asked Questions The following are additional answers to questions about cancer in males. What is the most common cause of cancer in males? There are certain risk factors for cancer in males. These include age, ethnicity, genetics, diet, smoking, and sexually transmitted infections (STI). How should males check for cancer? Males should always pay attention to their bodies. If they notice any abnormalities, they must speak with their doctor. Males should also complete recommended screenings such as a colonoscopy, fecal occult blood test, and prostate-specific antigen (PSA) exam. When should males check for cancer? Males should start screening for cancer at age 45. If a person has any concerning symptoms that last longer than 2 weeks, they should also talk with their doctor, especially if they have certain risk factors or have a family history of cancer.
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Men's Health
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This article discusses several causes of breast pain and how to treat them.
Most causes of breast pain in men are due to problems in breast tissue. These problems are usually treatable, and some will go away on their own.
Breast pain in men can have a variety of causes. Male breast pain can occur due to muscle strains, a cyst, or gynecomastia. Some causes might require treatment but are usually harmless.
Share on Pinterest Muscle strain is a possible cause of breast pain in men.
Some common conditions that may cause breast pain in men include:
Gynecomastia
Gynecomastia is a condition that causes abnormal growth and swelling in the breasts of males of all ages. The change in shape or size varies and can cause pain.
Gynecomastia can be due to hormone imbalances, where estrogen increases, and testosterone decreases. Obesity and aging are other possible causes of the condition.
Learn more about breast tissue in males here.
Cysts
A cyst is a lump under the skin that contains fluid or air. They are usually harmless, but sometimes they become sore.
A cyst on the breast is one possible cause of pain in the area.
Muscle strain
The pectoralis major and minor are the two main muscles that make up the chest.
Performing weighted chest exercises or putting excess pressure on the muscles can cause a strain.
Click here to learn more about pulled chest muscles.
Breast fat necrosis
Fat necrosis occurs where fat tissue becomes damaged. Surgery on the breasts or a biopsy can sometimes cause this damage.
Breast fat necrosis can produce a lump but is not cancerous.
Jogger’s nipple
Some people experience skin irritation from running. The nipple can start to chafe against a top or vest.
The chafing can cause the nipple to become sore.
Fibroadenoma
Another non-cancerous lump that can form on the breasts is a fibroadenoma. These are the most common type of breast tumors but are rare in men.
The cause of a fibroadenoma is unclear, but most do not increase the risk of breast cancer.
Breast cancer
Although it is rarer, breast cancer can occur in men.
Breast cancer causes tumors to grow on the breast or armpit, which can cause pain and soreness in the region.
Other possible causes
Problems in other areas of the body might also cause breast pain. Some examples include:
liver disease
heart or lung disease
heartburn
medications, such as antidepressants
back, neck, or shoulder injuries
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Men's Health
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Most testicular lumps are harmless, but some can be a sign of a more serious medical condition, such as testicular cancer. The majority of lumps found in the testicle are not caused by cancer. Testicle lumps are more commonly caused by fluid collecting, an infection, or swelling of skin or veins. However, it is not possible to diagnose the cause of a lump at home. A person should always seek medical advice. In this article, we look at the possible causes of a testicle lump, self-examination, and when to see a doctor. We also cover diagnosis and treatment.
Symptoms Share on Pinterest A physician should evaluate any testicular lump or swelling to check for a serious condition, such as cancer, and to advise about next steps. Illustration by Jason Hoffman. Testicle lumps typically cause swelling or changes in the texture of the skin or veins of one or both testicles. Depending on the specific cause, testicle lumps may also be accompanied by other symptoms. These may include: pain or discomfort
firmness or heaviness in the scrotum
nausea
vomiting
difficulty urinating
abnormal discharge from the penis
darkening of the scrotum In some cases, testicle lumps are not associated with any other symptoms and may be harmless. However, it is still important to talk with a doctor to determine the cause and best course of treatment.
How to examine yourself for lumps Understanding the body and being aware of any changes can be an essential part of managing health. Checking the testicles for any lumps or swelling and seeking medical advice if needed can make sure any issues are treated as quickly as possible. It is best to do a self-exam when the body is warm, and a person is relaxed. This can make it easier to feel anything unusual. Here is how to complete a testicular self-exam: stand in front of a mirror look at the testicles for any swelling of the skin place the first two fingers of each hand under the testicle, with the thumbs on top of the testicle move each testicle between the fingers and thumbs gently to check for lumps Examining the testicles monthly from puberty can help to find any medical problems early.
When to see a doctor Anyone who finds a lump in their testicles should see a doctor as soon as possible. It is difficult for a person to tell the cause of a lump without an examination by a doctor. It can help if a person can think of any other symptoms they may have experienced. They may have had an infection, such as chlamydia, or an injury to the testicle. Sharing this information with a doctor can help them to make a diagnosis.
Diagnosis A doctor will need to examine the person’s testicles. They may also need to do tests to find the cause of the lump. The doctor will look at and feel the testicles. They may also shine a light through the skin to check for any possible fluid buildup. A doctor may request an imaging scan, such as an ultrasound, to check the lump. An ultrasound uses sound waves to make a picture of the inside of the body.
Treatment If a person is not feeling any pain or discomfort, they may not require treatment. Anyone with a testicle lump should regularly check it at home to make sure that it does not get any bigger or change shape. Cysts will usually go away on their own. If the cyst is painful, applying a warm washcloth can help reduce swelling. If a cyst becomes infected, a person may need medication to treat the infection. Doctors can remove a cyst under local anesthetic. However, doctors do not usually recommend this as cysts are unlikely to cause health problems. A cyst can also come back in the same place. People with a varicocele or hydrocele who are not experiencing any symptoms are unlikely to need treatment. The fluid sac where a hydrocele has formed can be repaired, or sometimes, removed. Someone with a varicocele might also consider surgery. The procedure involves stopping the blood flow to the swollen veins, which allows the veins to shrink. Doctors usually treat epididymitis with antibiotics for the underlying infection. A person can take pain relieving medication or apply a cold pack wrapped in fabric to the testicles to help with pain and swelling. A person will need treatment if a lump in the testicle is found to be cancerous. Treatment will be different depending on the stage of the cancer. Doctors use radiation therapy and chemotherapy to kill cancer cells or stop them from growing. A person may need surgery to remove a lump from the testicle. Sometimes, more than one treatment might be necessary. It may be necessary for a doctor to remove part or all of the testicle to diagnose cancer and prevent it from spreading. The testicle can often be replaced with an implant. This can affect fertility, so a person may be given the opportunity to save and store sperm before surgery.
Outlook There are several possible causes for a lump in the testicle, most of which are harmless. People who are not experiencing any pain or discomfort may not require any treatment. Rarely, the lump may be a sign of testicular cancer. Doctors may need to treat this with a combination of radiation therapy, chemotherapy, and surgery. Anyone who finds a lump in their testicles should always see a doctor. Regularly checking the testicles for lumps can help spot the early signs of testicular cancer.
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Men's Health
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Testicular pain can have several causes, including a traumatic injury, kidney stones, a hernia, an infection, and various other health conditions. Some are minor, but others need urgent medical attention. Testicular pain may be due to an injury or condition that has started in the testicles or groin, but in many cases, it has causes elsewhere in the body. A person may also experience testicular pain for reasons such as hernias, pinched nerves, or gastrointestinal issues. Keep reading to learn about the possible causes of testicular pain and when to see a doctor.
Hernias Hernias occur when tissue pushes through a weak part of the abdominal muscles. An inguinal hernia is one type of hernia that can push into the scrotum, causing testicular pain and swelling. Doctors may be able to reduce an inguinal hernia or push it back into place. However, a hernia will almost always require surgery (hernia repair). Learn more about hernias.
Kidney stones Kidney stones can cause pain that radiates to the testicles. Doctors call this referred pain, which occurs beyond the area that is causing the problem. Other symptoms that doctors may associate with kidney stones include: blood-tinged urine
burning when urinating
nausea
pain at the top of the penis
sharp, cramping pain that may radiate from the back to the groin
urinating frequently
vomiting Doctors may advise waiting for the kidney stones to pass. However, if a stone does not pass after some time or a person experiences symptoms of an infection, such as a fever or discharge, they should seek treatment as soon as possible. Learn more about kidney stones. Men’s health resources For more research-backed information and resources, visit our dedicated men’s health hub. Was this helpful?
Orchitis Orchitis is an infection and inflammation of the testicles. Untreated epididymitis can lead to orchitis. Symptoms of orchitis can include: fatigue
fever
nausea
testicular pain
swelling in one or both testicles
vomiting People should seek immediate treatment for orchitis. Sometimes, the pain can be so severe that it is similar to testicular torsion, which is a medical emergency. Learn more about orchitis.
Testicular torsion Testicular torsion is a serious medical condition that occurs when the spermatic cord twists, like a candy cane, and cuts off the blood supply to the testicle. The spermatic cord is the ‘stalk’ of the testicles that contains blood vessels and vas deferens. The vas deferens is the duct that transports sperm from the epididymis to the ejaculatory ducts before ejaculation. Symptoms that doctors associate with testicular torsion include: nausea
redness or darkening of the scrotum
sudden, severe pain that occurs on one side of the scrotum
swelling in the scrotum
vomiting The pain from testicular torsion is sometimes gradual. Some people with this condition experience pain that slowly worsens over several days. According to the American Urological Association, testicular torsion typically occurs on the left side more than the right. Learn more about testicular torsion.
Testicular tumor A testicular tumor can cause pain and swelling in the testicular area. Other symptoms may include: a dull ache in the groin
a lump in the testicle
testicular swelling Symptoms of a testicular tumor can resemble several other conditions that affect males, such as inguinal hernias and epididymitis. A doctor can help to diagnose the tumor or any underlying condition. Read about testicular cancer.
Trauma A blow to the testicles can cause bruising, pain, and swelling. A testicle can also rupture or develop a hematocele. A hematocele occurs when blood pools around the testicle and presses on it, affecting blood flow. If a person has experienced a blow to the testicles and has pain and swelling, it is best to seek urgent medical attention.
Varicoceles Varicoceles are abnormally large, dilated veins in the testicles. Sometimes, varicoceles do not cause symptoms. When they do, a person may notice testicular pain that worsens with physical activity or over the day. Varicoceles may also affect a person’s fertility. Doctors do not know what causes varicoceles, but they can usually treat them with surgery. Most varicoceles are asymptomatic, and doctors often find them incidentally. If doctors do find them, they do not usually require treatment because the testicular pain usually results from something else. Learn more about varioceles.
Pediatric testicular pain Children may experience pain in the testicles from trauma, often from sports or playing rough. However, testicular pain in teenagers and younger children can have the same causes as in adults. People should seek medical attention if their child complains of testicular pain. It can sometimes be a medical emergency that requires immediate treatment. It is better to discuss this with a healthcare professional and be cautious than to risk serious harm.
Additional causes and treatment Additional causes of testicle pain may include: Diabetic neuropathy: This nerve damage due to diabetes can also cause pain in the testicles. Managing the underlying diabetes can resolve the problem.
This nerve damage due to diabetes can also cause pain in the testicles. Managing the underlying diabetes can resolve the problem. Hydrocele: This is a fluid buildup that causes swelling of the scrotum. They typically affect babies but can impact males of any age. While they are generally painless, there may be pain from the swelling. In infants, the hydrocele will typically resolve on its own. In adults, surgery may be necessary.
This is a fluid buildup that causes swelling of the scrotum. They typically affect babies but can impact males of any age. While they are generally painless, there may be pain from the swelling. In infants, the hydrocele will typically resolve on its own. In adults, surgery may be necessary. Idiopathic testicular pain: This is where the testicular pain is due to an unknown cause . Treatment may include pain management while doctors investigate further.
This is where the testicular pain is due to an . Treatment may include pain management while doctors investigate further. Mumps: Most people with mumps recover quickly. However, males who get mumps after puberty can develop complications such as inflammation of the testicles.
Most people with mumps recover quickly. However, males who get mumps after puberty can such as inflammation of the testicles. Prostatitis: This is an infection or inflammation of the prostate. Treatment varies depending on the individual but can include nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), muscle relaxants, or warm baths.
This is an infection or inflammation of the prostate. varies depending on the individual but can include nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), muscle relaxants, or warm baths. Scrotal masses: The treatment will vary depending on the cause of the mass. Some causes of scrotal masses include epididymitis and cancer.
The treatment will vary depending on the cause of the mass. Some causes of scrotal masses include epididymitis and cancer. Spermatocele: This is a fluid buildup in the testicle, also known as a spermatic cyst. These may not require treatment, but medications can ease the pain if they become too large.
This is a fluid buildup in the testicle, also known as a spermatic cyst. These may not require treatment, but medications can ease the pain if they become too large. Urinary tract infection: This is where bacteria enter the urinary tract, which includes the urethra, bladder, and kidneys. One symptom of the infection may be testicular pain. Sometimes, the infection may clear by itself, but other times, it may need antibiotics.
This is where bacteria enter the urinary tract, which includes the urethra, bladder, and kidneys. One symptom of the infection may be testicular pain. Sometimes, the infection may clear by itself, but other times, it may need antibiotics. Back pain: Testicular pain may result from pinched nerves from slipped or herniated discs.
Testicular pain may result from pinched nerves from slipped or herniated discs. Gastrointestinal issues: One example of a gastrointestinal issue that can cause testicular pain is diverticulitis. Diverticulitis is an inflammation of pouches in the intestines.
It is best to see a doctor if any of the following symptoms accompany testicular pain: discoloration of the testicles
nausea
unusual, bloody, or cloudy discharge from the penis
testicular swelling
vomiting
pain that gets worse over time Anyone with symptoms of testicular torsion should seek emergency medical attention. Without treatment, any condition that affects blood flow could result in loss of the testicle or surrounding parts.
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Men's Health
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A testicular ultrasound is a low-risk procedure for diagnosing a range of medical issues, such as testicular torsion, testicular cancer, and epididymitis. Knowing what to expect during a testicular ultrasound can help a person feel more prepared. This article will look at the uses of testicular ultrasound, what to expect during the procedure, and how to prepare for a scan.
What is a testicular ultrasound? Share on Pinterest An ultrasound machine can provide images of the inside of the body, allowing doctors to diagnose certain conditions. An ultrasound is a medical procedure that uses sound waves to create a picture of the inside of the body. The images can help a doctor to diagnose an illness or injury. A testicular ultrasound, also called ultrasound imaging of the scrotum, looks specifically at the testicles. The testicles are part of the male reproductive system. Their primary purpose is to create sperm and hormones. Testicles are contained within a sac called the scrotum. The ultrasound procedure is safe, very low-risk, and non-invasive. The examination takes place entirely outside the body.
When is it used? A testicular ultrasound is used to investigate a range of problems with the scrotum, testicles, or epididymis. A doctor may recommend a testicular ultrasound if a person has an injury, pain, or swelling in or around the testicles. Specific uses for a testicular ultrasound include: Testing testicular lumps If a doctor suspects that a man has testicular cancer, a testicular ultrasound is one of the first tests that the doctor will perform. It is used to find out whether a lump found in the testicles is likely to be cancerous or not. Ultrasound images can help a doctor to see the size and location of the lump. The images can also help the doctor identify whether the lump is filled with fluid, which is often harmless, or solid, which can be cancerous. Testicular torsion Share on Pinterest An ultrasound may help to diagnose testicular torsion, and to determine what treatment is required. Testicular torsion is a serious, very painful condition that requires emergency medical attention. It occurs when the spermatic cord, which supplies blood to the testicle, becomes twisted. If testicular torsion is not treated immediately, the blood supply can get cut off, causing the tissue of the testicle to die. Often, surgery is required to prevent further damage to the testicle. A person should see their doctor immediately if they have severe testicle pain with no apparent cause. Epididymitis Epididymitis is an inflammation of the epididymis, which is the tightly coiled tube behind the testicle that stores and transports sperm. Inflammation of the epididymis can cause fluid to build up around the testicle, resulting in a lump or a swelling. Epididymitis is usually caused by an infection. Infertility The testicles make and store sperm. Problems affecting the testicles can sometimes cause male infertility. Potential problems include infection, injury, previous surgery, or illness. Undescended testicles Undescended testicles are a common condition affecting young males. During fetal development, the testicles should naturally move downwards from inside the abdomen to finally sit outside the body in the scrotum. This usually happens before birth, but can take up to 6 months after birth to occur. If the testicles do not descend by the time a boy is 6 months old, it is crucial to consult a specialist. Sometimes, surgery may be required. The operation is typically straightforward and involves a surgeon moving the testicles down so that they sit in the correct position in the body. Men’s health resources For more research-backed information and resources, visit our dedicated men’s health hub. Was this helpful?
Preparing for a testicular ultrasound There is no need to avoid eating or drinking before the appointment. Before the examination, a man will need to remove all clothing below the waist. A man may wish to wear something loose fitting and easy to take off. Be prepared to stay as still as possible during the examination so that the ultrasound equipment can create clear images of the testicles.
What to expect Share on Pinterest The ultrasound process will be explained before the procedure begins. The examination will be carried out by a medical professional who specializes in testicular ultrasound. This can be a radiologist, urologist, or sonographer. Before they begin, they should explain what will happen during the examination. The procedure usually takes between 15 and 30 minutes. Before the examination, a person is asked to lie face up on a table. During the procedure, they may be required to move onto one side of their body. A testicular ultrasound is performed outside the body. A small, hand-held machine called a transducer is used to take the images. The doctor will apply a water-based gel to the scrotum to ensure that there is good contact between the skin and the transducer. The gel also allows the transducer to be moved smoothly over the skin to get clear images. The gel may feel cold on the skin, though sometimes it is warmed up beforehand. The medical professional will move the transducer back and forth over the scrotum to take images of the testicles. The pressure from the transducer is usually light, but it may cause some discomfort if a person has an injury or swelling in the area. When the examination is finished, the doctor will wipe the gel off the skin. Any gel that is left will dry quickly, and it will not usually stain clothing.
Ultrasound results The ultrasound images are usually processed relatively quickly. Sometimes, a medical professional will be able to go through the results with a person immediately after their appointment. If a doctor cannot discuss the results at the time of the ultrasound, make a follow-up appointment. A radiologist will check and interpret the results. Some urologists may perform and interpret ultrasounds in their office. They may then send the results to a person’s primary physician or healthcare provider. Depending on the results, a doctor may recommend that a person has further medical tests.
Risks Testicular ultrasounds are considered low-risk examinations. The examination may cause some discomfort or pain if there is an injury or swelling in the testicular area. Some medical scans use radiation, but ultrasound does not. This makes it less risky than some other forms of scanning.
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Men's Health
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The signs and symptoms of a stroke are generally the same for males and females. They include face drooping, weakness on one side, vision changes, confusion, and difficulty speaking. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) do not distinguish between signs and symptoms for males and females. A note about sex and gender Sex and gender exist on spectrums. This article will use the terms “male,” “female,” or both to refer to sex assigned at birth. Click here to learn more. Was this helpful? The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention report that a stroke is the leading cause of death in the United States. Strokes are more common and more likely to be fatal in females, while males tend to have strokes at a younger age. Being aware of all symptoms, including those specific to males and females, can help a person to seek lifesaving medical attention for someone who may be having a stroke. In this article, we look at the early warning signs of a stroke, and symptoms males are more likely to experience. We also describe the recovery process.
Early warning signs Share on Pinterest Infographic by Cristie Wilson There are a number of warning signs to look out for if a person is having a stroke. These include symptoms such as sudden : numbness or weakness in the face, arm, or leg, especially on one side of the body
confusion, trouble speaking, or difficulty understanding speech
trouble seeing from one or both eyes
trouble walking, dizziness, loss of balance, or lack of coordination
severe headache with no known cause An ischemic stroke is the most common type of stroke. It involves a piece of plaque or a blood clot blocking an artery in the brain. Hemorrhagic strokes are less common, and they involve bleeding in the brain. A person may experience a transient ischemic attack (TIA), or a “ministroke.” These may cause short-term, stroke-like symptoms, and they can serve as a warning sign for a stroke. A stroke cuts off blood flow to the brain, depriving brain cells of oxygen and nutrients. If a person does not get medical attention quickly, they are at risk of permanent brain damage or death.
What to do if a person is having a stroke If a person suspects that someone is having a stroke, they should contact emergency services immediately. People in the U.S. should dial 911. Identifying and quickly treating a stroke reduces the risk of brain damage or death. Within 4.5 hours of the onset of a stroke, a doctor can administer a clot-busting medication. A person who suspects that they are having a stroke should not drive.
Symptoms of a stroke The acronym FAST can help a person to remember the most common symptoms and signs of a stroke, which are: Face drooping (F): A stroke can cause numbness or weakness on one side of the face. When a person with this symptom tries to smile, only one side of their mouth may respond.
A stroke can cause numbness or weakness on one side of the face. When a person with this symptom tries to smile, only one side of their mouth may respond. Arm weakness (A): A person having a TIA or stroke may be unable to raise one or both arms above their head and keep them there.
A person having a TIA or stroke may be unable to raise one or both arms above their head and keep them there. Speech difficulty (S): A person may have difficulty speaking, or their words may not make sense.
A person may have difficulty speaking, or their words may not make sense. Time (T): If a person has any of the above symptoms, seek immediate medical assistance. A stroke is a medical emergency, and receiving urgent treatment can help prevent further injury to the brain. A person having a stroke may show several symptoms or only one, such as one-sided weakness. Other symptoms of a stroke include: headache
dizziness
pain
feeling faint Females are more likely to report “nontraditional” symptoms such as lightheadedness, headache, and a change in mental status, such as confusion. Males can also exhibit these symptoms. However, because males tend to exhibit better-known symptoms, bystanders and medical personnel may recognize strokes more quickly in males, reducing the time between the stroke and treatment. Visit our dedicated hub for more information on male health.
Stroke recovery in males There are significant differences in the rehabilitation and discharge of people who had a stroke. These differences may suggest that doctors need to consider the sex and age of a person in care planning. One study found that doctors were more likely to discharge males than females. Males were also more likely to not require home care after discharge. This may be because males tend to be younger than females when they have strokes. As a result, their bodies may be better able to recover. Recovery after a stroke depends on many factors. These include: the area of the brain affected by the stroke
the amount of time that oxygen and blood were not flowing correctly
a person’s overall health before the stroke Some people fully recover from a stroke and experience no lasting effects. Others require long-term physical therapy and medications. These medications may: thin the blood
lower blood pressure
reduce cholesterol
Risk factors A stroke can affect anyone, but there are some things that increase a person’s risk of a stroke. It is important to know what the risk factors are so that people can do certain things to help reduce the risk. These include: Age: The older a person is, the narrower and harder their arteries are likely to be. This can cause atherosclerosis, where the arteries become clogged.
The older a person is, the narrower and harder their arteries are likely to be. This can cause atherosclerosis, where the arteries become clogged. Medical conditions: Certain conditions increase the risk of stroke, such as high blood pressure, diabetes, and high cholesterol.
Certain conditions increase the risk of stroke, such as high blood pressure, diabetes, and high cholesterol. Lifestyle factors: Certain behaviors such as smoking, drinking excessive amounts of alcohol, and not eating a balanced diet can damage blood vessels.
Certain behaviors such as smoking, drinking excessive amounts of alcohol, and not eating a balanced diet can damage blood vessels. Family history: If a first-degree relative has had a stroke, a person’s risk is likely to be higher. Pregnancy and the use of birth control pills can pose stroke risks for females. A person should speak with their healthcare professional if they have close relatives who have had a stroke or heart attack, as some types of high cholesterol can run in families.
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Men's Health
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A heart attack is a medical emergency, with similar symptoms in males and females. However, certain symptoms may be more common, depending on a person’s sex. This article explores the symptoms of a heart attack for males and females, risk factors, and ways to prevent them.
Symptoms of a heart attack Share on Pinterest Image Credit: Morsa Images/Getty Images A heart attack occurs when the blood supply to the heart becomes blocked. Several symptoms may indicate a heart attack. These are: Chest discomfort or pain: A person may experience pressure, squeezing, fullness, or pain in the center of their chest. This may come and go or persist for more than a few minutes.
A person may experience pressure, squeezing, fullness, or pain in the center of their chest. This may come and go or persist for more than a few minutes. Pain or discomfort in other body parts: A person may also experience pain or discomfort in one or both arms, the stomach, jaw, back, or neck.
A person may also experience pain or discomfort in one or both arms, the stomach, jaw, back, or neck. Shortness of breath: A person may feel a shortness of breath with or without chest pain. Some other heart attack symptoms may include: cold sweat
nausea
feeling light-headed
heart palpitations
sleep disturbances
fatigue
Risk factors Risk factors of a heart attack are similar between males and females. The American Heart Foundation list the following as risk factors : increasing age
being male
parents with heart disease
smoking
high cholesterol
high blood pressure
physical inactivity
living with obesity
diabetes
stress
alcohol intake
diet Researchers are currently examining the idea that erectile dysfunction may also be a risk factor for heart problems, but the research is not conclusive.
Complications A 2018 study looks at the differences between males and females in depression levels and rates of complications following a heart attack. They found females were more likely to develop depressive symptoms and were more likely to experience complications. Some of the more common complications that people may experience after a heart attack include: Arrhythmias: Sometimes, a heart attack may disrupt the natural electrical rhythm of the heart, leading to arrhythmias. In these cases, a person may require a pacemaker until the rhythm returns to normal.
Sometimes, a heart attack may disrupt the natural electrical rhythm of the heart, leading to arrhythmias. In these cases, a person may require a pacemaker until the rhythm returns to normal. Angina: A heart attack may damage blood vessels, resulting in the heart not getting enough blood supply. Doctors refer to this pain as angina and may prescribe medication to help prevent flare-ups.
A heart attack may damage blood vessels, resulting in the heart not getting enough blood supply. Doctors refer to this pain as angina and may prescribe medication to help prevent flare-ups. Heart failure: If a heart attack causes severe damage, a person may experience heart failure. Treatments for this include heart surgery or installing a pacemaker.
Preventing a heart attack Some of the risk factors associated with heart attacks are not reversible, such as sex and genetic risk of heart disease. However, a person can lower their risk of a heart attack by focusing on lifestyle changes, such as: Reducing or limiting alcohol intake: Low-to-moderate intake of alcohol may have some benefits for heart health. However, excessive drinking can damage the heart.
Low-to-moderate intake of may have some benefits for heart health. However, excessive drinking can damage the heart. Regularly exercising: Regular physical activity reduces blood pressure and the risk of death from a heart attack.
Regular reduces blood pressure and the risk of death from a heart attack. Adopting a Mediterranean diet : Research suggests that people who consume Mediterranean diets may have better heart health.
: that people who consume Mediterranean diets may have better heart health. Stopping smoking: The National Heart, Lung, and Blood Institute note that the risk of heart problems decrease soon after people quit smoking. This risk continues to decline over time.
The note that the risk of heart problems decrease soon after people quit smoking. This risk continues to decline over time. Losing weight: Researchers link obesity to cardiovascular issues. Therefore, losing weight may reduce the risk of a heart attack.
When to see a doctor A heart attack is a medical emergency. If a person shows symptoms of one, they should seek medical help immediately. The American College of Cardiology Foundation note that 50% of people who experience a heart attack have early symptoms. By seeking help in the early stages, a person could reduce their risk of developing heart damage.
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Men's Health
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Although many people have some knowledge about sperm, many misconceptions about the male gamete also exist. This article will separate some interesting sperm facts from some common myths.
There are countless facts regarding sperm, the male reproductive cells. For this reason, it can be hard to split truth from myth.
Share on Pinterest Eraxion/Getty Images
The following are four confirmed sperm-related facts:
Sperm and semen are not the same
Sperm cells are male gametes. These cells’ function is to find a female gamete with which to fuse, for non-assisted reproduction to occur. In this process, sperm enters the vagina by being expelled through the penis. This expulsion is known as ejaculation.
When this occurs, the sperm arrives within a fluid created by the male sex organs. This mixture of sperm and fluid is called semen.
Sperm takes a long time to produce
The process of producing sperm is known as spermatogenesis.
Testicles, the male reproductive organs, produce sperm. Inside the testicles are small tubes called seminiferous tubules.
Spermatogenesis involves several stages:
Hormones enter the tubules that house germ cells.
With the help of these hormones, such as testosterone, the germ cells divide and change several times.
They gradually turn into spermatids, which are young sperm cells.
These grow and mature into spermatozoa, each with a tadpole-like head and tail.
Researchers estimate this process takes around 74 days .
The sperm then travel through the epididymis, a tube behind the testes, before ending up at the vas deferens, another tube linked to the ejaculatory duct.
Lifestyle choices can affect sperm count
The number or concentration of sperm in an ejaculate sample commonly determines the sperm count. There is some evidence that lifestyle choices can affect this number.
For example, one large study found a link between smoking and a decreased sperm count. There is also evidence that dietary changes could play a role. For example, some research suggests that increased levels of vitamin D might promote sperm production.
Learn more about how to increase sperm count here.
Sperm count may vary with location and ethnicity
Scientists know sperm counts have been decreasing in many Western countries. According to one study, the average sperm count between 1973 and 2011 decreased by 59.3% in North America, Europe, New Zealand, and Australia.
Researchers do not yet understand what caused this drop, although it may be due to lifestyle changes.
There is also some evidence of a link between ethnicity and differences in sperm production. One study notes the following difference in the sperm counts of Latinx, white, and Chinese males:
Chinese males produced 70–173 million sperm cells per day.
Latinx males produced 231–398 million sperm cells per day.
White males produced 193–318 million sperm cells per day.
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Men's Health
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Prostate cancer is a common type of cancer in males, but it is highly treatable in the early stages. It begins in the prostate gland, which sits between the penis and the bladder. Experts do not know what causes it, but the risk increases with age. The prostate has various functions. These include producing the fluid that nourishes and transports sperm, secreting prostate-specific antigen (PSA), a protein that helps semen retain its liquid state, and helping aid urine control. Other than skin cancer, prostate cancer is the most common cancer affecting males in the United States. The American Cancer Society (ACS) predicts that in 2021 there will be around 248,530 new diagnoses of prostate cancer and approximately 34,130 deaths from this type of cancer. Around 1 in 8 males will receive a diagnosis of prostate cancer at some point in their life. However, only 1 in 41 of these will die as a result. This is because of effective treatments in the early stages and the slow-growing nature of the cancer in later stages. Routine screening enables doctors to detect many cases of prostate cancer before they spread. A note about sex and gender Sex and gender exist on spectrums. This article will use the terms “male,” “female,” or both to refer to sex assigned at birth. Click here to learn more. Was this helpful?
Treatment Treatment will depend on the cancer stage, among other factors, such as the Gleason score and PSA levels. It is also worth noting that many treatment options may be applicable, regardless of cancer stage. In the sections below, we list some treatment options for prostate cancer and explore what treatment may mean for fertility. Early stage prostate cancer If the cancer is small and localized, a doctor may recommend: Watchful waiting or monitoring The doctor may check PSA blood levels regularly but take no immediate action or rebiopsy the prostate to see if the cancer has progressed, warranting action/treatment. Prostate cancer grows slowly, and the risk of treatment side effects may outweigh the need for immediate treatment. Surgery Should a person require surgery, a urologist will carry out the procedure. This is a surgeon who specializes in the treatment of urinary system disorders. They may perform a radical prostatectomy to remove the tumor. In addition to removing the prostate, the procedure may also involve the removal of the surrounding tissue, seminal vesicles, and nearby lymph nodes. A doctor can perform this procedure using either open, laparoscopic, or robot-assisted laparoscopic surgery. Radiation therapy This treatment uses radiation to kill cancer cells or prevent them from growing. Options for early stage prostate cancer may include : External radiation therapy: This method uses a machine outside the body to send radiation toward the cancer cells. Conformal radiation therapy is a type of external radiation that uses a computer to help guide and target a specific area, minimizing the risk to healthy tissue and allowing a high dose of radiation to reach the prostate tumor.
This method uses a machine outside the body to send radiation toward the cancer cells. Conformal radiation therapy is a type of external radiation that uses a computer to help guide and target a specific area, minimizing the risk to healthy tissue and allowing a high dose of radiation to reach the prostate tumor. Internal radiation therapy: Also known as brachytherapy, this method uses radioactive seeds that a doctor implants near the prostate. A surgeon uses imaging scans, such as ultrasound or computed tomography to help guide the placement of the radioactive substance. Treatment will depend on various factors. A doctor will discuss the best option for the individual. Hormonal treatment A medicinal hormonal blockade may also be part of treatment in the localized prostate cancer setting. Hormone therapy decreases the levels of androgens (male sex hormones) in the body or blocks their production. The main androgens in males are testosterone and dihydrotestosterone. These androgens aid the development of the prostate and are necessary for prostate cancer to grow . Reducing or blocking circulating levels of these hormones can temporarily inhibit the growth of prostate cancer. Doctors may prescribe this for a fixed time after the radiation therapy to decrease the chance of prostate cancer recurrence. Advanced prostate cancer As cancer grows, it can spread throughout the body. If it spreads, or if it comes back after remission, treatment options will change. Options can include: Chemotherapy: This option uses drugs to help stop the growth of cancer cells. While it can kill cancer cells around the body, it may cause adverse effects.
This option uses drugs to help stop the growth of cancer cells. While it can kill cancer cells around the body, it adverse effects. Hormonal therapy: Blocking or reducing specific androgens appears to stop or delay the growth of cancer cells. One option is to undergo surgery to remove the testicles, which produce most testosterone, or to take an injection or pill that biochemically mimics the removal of the testicles, causing a similar effect in testosterone depletion.
specific androgens appears to stop or delay the growth of cancer cells. One option is to undergo surgery to remove the testicles, which produce most testosterone, or to take an injection or pill that biochemically mimics the removal of the testicles, causing a similar effect in testosterone depletion. Targeted therapy: This method uses drugs or other substances that identify and attack specific cancer cells. For example, if somebody harbors a BRCA mutation, then a PARP inhibitor oral medication can target the mutation and kill cancer cells
This method uses drugs or other substances that identify and attack specific cancer cells. For example, if somebody harbors a BRCA mutation, then a PARP inhibitor oral medication can target the mutation and kill cancer cells Immunotherapy: This method uses a person’s immune system to help fight cancer. Scientists can use substances the body produces, or create them in a lab, to help boost or restore the body’s natural defenses against cancer. Effects on fertility The prostate gland plays a role in sexual reproduction. Prostate cancer and many of its treatments affect fertility in several ways. For example, surgery to remove either the prostate gland or the testicles will affect semen production and fertility. Also, radiation therapy can affect prostate tissue, damaging sperm and reducing the amount of semen for transporting it. Hormonal treatment can also affect fertility. However, some options for preserving these functions include banking sperm before surgery or extracting sperm directly from the testicles for artificial insemination. There is no guarantee that fertility will remain intact after treatment for prostate cancer. Anyone who would like to have children after treatment should discuss fertility options with their doctor when they devise their treatment plan.
Stages Staging typically describes how much cancer is present in the body and how serious the cancer is. Knowing the stage of prostate cancer can help a person understand what to expect and will inform decisions about treatment. Medical professionals often refer to cancer as either non-metastatic or metastatic. Non-metastatic cancer is only present in its original growth area, which doctors may call localized. Metastatic cancer is that which spreads to another part of the body from the site of origin. Cancer staging is complex and accounts for many different factors. Usually, the lower the number, the less the cancer has spread. Stages may include : Stage I: Cancer is only present in the prostate gland.
Cancer is only present in the prostate gland. Stage II: Cancer has not yet spread from the prostate, but a person will have a higher PSA level.
Cancer has not yet spread from the prostate, but a person will have a higher PSA level. Stage III: Cancer may have spread to nearby tissues.
Cancer may have spread to nearby tissues. Stage IV: Cancer may have spread to distant parts of the body.
Diagnosis If a person has symptoms that may indicate prostate cancer, a doctor will likely : ask about symptoms
ask about personal and medical history
conduct a blood test to assess PSA levels
perform imaging tests
carry out a urine test to look for other biomarkers
carry out a physical examination, which may include a digital rectal exam (DRE) During a DRE, the doctor will check manually for any abnormalities of the prostate with their finger. Click here to learn more about prostate exams. Further tests If a doctor suspects cancer, they may recommend further tests, such as : Transrectal ultrasound: This involves inserting a probe with a camera into the rectum.
Biopsy: A doctor will take a tissue sample for examination under a microscope. Only a biopsy can confirm the presence and type of cancer. A person who needs monitoring rather than treatment may need a routine MRI or CT scan.
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Men's Health
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Male breast cancer is a relatively rare disease. For this reason, very few studies have evaluated the factors that have associations with better outcomes. A fresh investigation begins to fill this gap.
Male breast cancer is rare but understudied. Male breast cancer (MBC) accounts for just 1% of all breast cancer cases. However, some scientists believe that prevalence has risen over the last few decades. Scientists have also spotted differences between the tumor biology in MBC and breast cancer in women. They have also noted other differences between female breast cancer and MBC. For instance, MBC tends to occur later in life, and it more commonly moves into lymph nodes, making it harder to treat. Taken together, these factors may mean that treatment aimed at more common forms of breast cancer are not as effective against MBC.
Male breast cancer examined Although the treatment of breast cancer has improved dramatically over recent years, as the authors of the latest study explain, “it is unclear whether these advances have been applied to the management of MBC.” Researchers from Mayo Clinic in Rochester, MN, set out to understand how doctors treat MBC in the United States, and what factors might lead to better outcomes. They conducted one of the largest studies to investigate MBC to date, and recently published their results in the journal Cancer . To investigate, the scientists accessed data from the National Cancer Database. They scrutinized the records of men diagnosed with stage 1–3 breast cancer from 2004–2014. In total, the study included data from 10,873 men. The average age of diagnosis was 64, and 51% of diagnoses occurred between the ages of 50 and 69. Only 15% received a diagnosis before the age of 50. They found that 24% of men had breast-conserving surgery and that 70% of these men received radiation therapy. They also showed that 44% of people with MBC received chemotherapy, and 62% of those whose tumors expressed the estrogen receptor received anti-estrogen therapy. Over the 10 years, the researchers noted a steady increase in the rates of total mastectomy and contralateral prophylactic mastectomy, which is when a surgeon removes a healthy breast as a preventive measure. They also measured an increase in genomic testing on tumors and a rise in the use of anti-estrogen therapy. Men’s health resources For more research-backed information and resources, visit our dedicated men’s health hub. Was this helpful?
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Men's Health
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Fibromyalgia is a disorder marked by widespread pain in the muscles and bones, sleep problems, fatigue, and mood disorders. Doctors believe it may affect many more women than men, but when men have the disorder, they may experience unique problems. Science has not produced much research on men with fibromyalgia, and estimates of the number of men vs. women with the disease vary widely. The National Fibromyalgia Association say that a 2001 review of the literature found the ratio was nine women to every one man with the disease. Elsewhere, self-help groups have put the figure at one man for every eight women with the condition or higher. These groups leave the possibility open that 30 percent of people who experience fibromyalgia might be male. Due to the leaning towards fibromyalgia as predominantly a female condition, it may be harder for men to receive a fibromyalgia diagnosis, even though some experts believe up to 1.5 million men in the United States may have the condition. In this article, we explain how people can recognize the signs of fibromyalgia in men, and how they should manage the symptoms when they occur.
Risk factors Share on Pinterest Fibromyalgia may have a higher prevalence than doctors previously thought. Fibromyalgia affects roughly 2 percent of the adult population in the U.S. This is equivalent to some 4 million individuals, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). Some people are at higher risk of developing fibromyalgia than others. Gender is the main risk factor, with others including: a personal history of rheumatic diseases, including lupus
a history of mood or depressive disorders
a family history of fibromyalgia among close relatives For more research-backed information and resources for men’s health, please visit our dedicated hub. Was this helpful?
Symptoms Fibromyalgia symptoms may appear differently in men than in women. People have always considered fibromyalgia symptoms to be milder in men than in women. In reality, they may be as widespread in both genders, and recent studies indicate that the severity of symptoms may be the same in all people. A 2017 report says that men may be less likely to consult a doctor than women. They may also feel stigmatized as “wimpy,” “whiney,” or “lazy,” when they complain of fibromyalgia symptoms, such as tiredness and muscle pains. The report’s author says that remaining undiagnosed may make disability claims from employers harder for men to access than women. Also, the impact of less available support may impact a family if a man rather than a woman is a primary income provider. Symptoms of fibromyalgia in men can range from mild to debilitating. They may vary from person-to-person and can include: pain and tenderness
fatigue
morning muscle stiffness
irritable bowel symptoms
brain fog
headache
depression When to see a doctor Fibromyalgia symptoms can be similar to the symptoms of other conditions. If the symptoms are not severe, it can be hard to know when to see a doctor. If a man thinks he may have the symptoms of fibromyalgia, he should seek medical advice, to rule out other conditions. If the symptoms worsen or change, it is also a good idea to tell the physician as they may wish to change the treatment.
Diagnosis Share on Pinterest It may be difficult for a man to receive a fibromyalgia diagnosis. To be diagnosed with fibromyalgia, a person must experience widespread pain for more than 3 months. The pain must have no other known medical cause. A man living with fibromyalgia may find it difficult to get a diagnosis, as doctors must first rule out other conditions that have similar signs. There are no lab tests to diagnose fibromyalgia, but a doctor may do blood tests and imaging to eliminate other possibilities. Some doctors incorrectly think of fibromyalgia as a “female” condition, and they may be reluctant to diagnose it in men.
Treatment and outlook Treating fibromyalgia includes a mix of medication and self-care. Fibromyalgia is not completely curable. However, a person can relieve many of the symptoms that occur. Medication can also improve sleep problems and reduce fatigue, both of which are common in people with fibromyalgia. Medications Treatment with medication may include: Antidepressants: Certain antidepressants can help lessen pain reactions and improve sleep quality.
Antiseizure medications: Drugs used to treat epilepsy may help relieve and reduce pain.
Naltrexone: An anti-opioid called naltrexone may help relieve pain when people use it in small doses. There is no evidence to support the action of painkillers on fibromyalgia symptoms. People should avoid strong pain relievers, such as opioids, as they have a high risk of dependency. Self-care Self-care is an essential part of fibromyalgia treatment. Men with fibromyalgia need to engage with self-care actively. Certain lifestyle changes can help men with fibromyalgia improve symptoms, including: Getting enough sleep: Fibromyalgia causes fatigue. It is vital that people allow ample time for sleep and rest so they can manage their symptoms.
Fibromyalgia causes fatigue. It is vital that people allow ample time for sleep and rest so they can manage their symptoms. Exercising: Though exercise can be painful at first, physical activity will decrease pain and increase mobility over time. Exercise can also help improve mood.
Though exercise can be painful at first, physical activity will decrease pain and increase mobility over time. Exercise can also help improve mood. Eating a healthful diet: A balanced, nutritious diet can support overall health, which will reduce fibromyalgia symptoms.
A balanced, nutritious diet can support overall health, which will reduce fibromyalgia symptoms. Managing stress: People with fibromyalgia need to find ways to manage stress. Stress relievers include meditation, exercise, and saying ‘no’ to unnecessary tasks. A person may benefit from therapy too.
People with fibromyalgia need to find ways to manage stress. Stress relievers include meditation, exercise, and saying ‘no’ to unnecessary tasks. A person may benefit from therapy too. Recognizing limits: Men with fibromyalgia may overexert themselves, which can worsen symptoms.
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Men's Health
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Circumcision is a surgical operation to remove the foreskin of the penis. An adult may decide to undergo this procedure for religious, cosmetic, medical, or cultural reasons. Circumcision is fairly common in the United States, where some research estimates that 71.2% of males have undergone the procedure. Some health authorities, such as the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), encourage circumcision on the basis that it appears to reduce the risk of HIV infection through vaginal sex. However, there is still some debate on the benefits of circumcision. Some people with an uncircumcised penis may decide to have the procedure later in life. In adulthood, the procedure is more complicated than it is in infants, and it usually involves a longer recovery. In this article, we discuss adult circumcision in detail, including the possible benefits and risks of the procedure.
What is a circumcision? Share on Pinterest Image credit: Morsa Images / Getty Images. Circumcision is a procedure that removes the foreskin of the penis. The foreskin is the hood of loose skin that covers the head of the penis. Doctors most commonly perform circumcision on newborn infants. The American Academy of Pediatrics and the American Urological Association recommend that doctors offer circumcision as an option and discuss the possible risks and benefits with parents or caregivers. Circumcisions in adulthood are less common. As an adult, uncircumcised individuals can decide for themselves whether they want to undergo the procedure. While some may opt for circumcision for aesthetic, hygiene, or religious reasons, others may require circumcision for various health reasons.
Risks For most people, the surgery does not cause serious complications . However, recovery can be painful, and some may fear the surgery itself. Some potential risks include: Excessive bleeding: Some people may bleed more than is normal or safe during the procedure. They may also notice bleeding around the incision for a few hours or days after the procedure.
Some people may bleed more than is normal or safe during the procedure. They may also notice bleeding around the incision for a few hours or days after the procedure. Infection: Any injury to the skin can provide a site for bacteria to grow. A circumcision creates a wound, which may become infected. Following a doctor’s postsurgical care instructions can reduce the risk of infection.
Any injury to the skin can provide a site for bacteria to grow. A circumcision creates a wound, which may become infected. Following a doctor’s postsurgical care instructions can reduce the risk of infection. Anesthesia complications: As with any surgery, a person may experience anesthesia-related complications, such as allergic reactions, nausea, vomiting, or difficulties waking up from general anesthesia.
As with any surgery, a person may experience anesthesia-related complications, such as allergic reactions, nausea, vomiting, or difficulties waking up from general anesthesia. Pain: It is normal to feel pain after the procedure. For some people, the pain is intense or lasts weeks or months. Very rarely, injuries to the penis or surrounding nerves may cause chronic pain or make sex painful.
Procedure Typically, a doctor will perform the circumcision procedure under general anesthesia, but they may sometimes use local or spinal anesthesia instead. With general anesthesia, a person is totally asleep and feels nothing. Local anesthesia numbs the area but allows a person to stay awake, while someone who has a spinal anesthesia will be unable to feel anything below the waist. The surgery itself takes about 30 minutes, but the whole procedure, including delivering anesthesia and waking up, may take longer. After surgery, a doctor applies a dressing to the site of surgery, which usually stays on for about 2 days. They may also give the person some pain medication. Some swelling and bruising will likely last for several days.
Recovery Recovery from an adult circumcision may take up to 6 weeks. The penis may feel very sensitive for the first 2 weeks, and dissolvable stitches may last for 2–3 weeks. It is also advisable to keep the area dry for 48 hours and avoid swimming for up to 2 weeks. A person should wear loose-fitting clothing for the first few days after the procedure and refrain from any sexual activity for 4 weeks. It is common to experience pain during an erection while recovering. Applying petroleum jelly may help ease itching and pain, and it can help prevent stitches from sticking to clothing. Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) may help if a person experiences any discomfort.
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Men's Health
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Property buyers have said their home completions are being left in limbo after a company providing IT services to law firms was hit by a cyber-incident.
The firm, CTS, was hit by the problem last week and said it still did not know when services would be restored.
Buyers have expressed their distress on social media after a number of completions were delayed.
The regulator said law firms needed to work together to avoid disruption.
Generally, on property completion day, the buyer's solicitor arranges for money to be transferred to the seller's solicitor. A failure to complete is technically a breach of contract.
The problem at CTS is having a knock-on effect on the firms involved in property completions. It is thought around 80 law firms have been affected.
Writing on X, formerly known as Twitter, some buyers said they had only been given limited information and were surprised the problems had lasted so long.
"There is no proper update, communications and transparency. This is really horrendous. While I can acknowledge the situation and the complexity, the ... urgency is clear," said one.
"Meant to complete yesterday. Your inability to keep your cyber security in place is causing a lot of distress," said another.
'Urgent investigation'
CTS last posted an update on its website, and on X, on Friday, and would not answer further questions from the BBC on Monday.
"The outage was caused by a cyber-incident," according to its most recent update. "We are working closely with a leading global cyber forensics firm to help us with an urgent investigation into the incident and to assist us in service restoration.
"Whilst we are confident that we will be able to restore services, we are unable to give a precise timeline for full restoration."
A spokeswoman said it would update its website when there were any further developments. At present, the front page of its website carries a guide to how law firms can have the "capability to rapidly detect and respond to [cyber] threats".
On Monday, the property law regulator, the CLC, confirmed there was disruption to some transactions.
It said firms must ensure that they had alerted lawyers acting on the other side of any relevant transactions.
"This openness is vital for limiting as far as possible disruption and consumer harm," it said.
Have you been affected by the issues raised in this story? Share your experiences by emailing haveyoursay@bbc.co.uk.
Please include a contact number if you are willing to speak to a BBC journalist. You can also get in touch in the following ways:
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Real Estate & Housing
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The food system "remains resilient", the environment secretary has insisted, as she conceded fruit and vegetable shortages will likely continue for another two to four weeks.
Responding to an urgent question in the House of Commons as the crisis leaves some supermarket shelves bare, Therese Coffey said: "I am led to believe by my officials after discussion with industry and retailers, we anticipate the situation will last about another two to four weeks."
Fellow Tory MP Selaine Saxby asked if consumers would be better off eating seasonal produce (such as root vegetables) to help ease the shortages.
Ms Coffey replied: "A lot of people would be eating turnips right now rather than thinking necessarily about aspects of lettuce, and tomatoes and similar.
"But I'm conscious that consumers want a year-round choice and that is what our supermarkets, food producers and growers around the world try to satisfy."
Four supermarket chains this week imposed a limit on the number of certain fruit and vegetables each shopper could buy, shortly before the National Farmers Union had told Sky News of a risk of rationing.
Ms Coffey blamed the shortages on "very unusual weather" in places like Morocco and Spain, from where Britain sources much fresh produce during its dark winter months.
"We do recognise this particular issue right now - that's why the department is already in discussion with retailers," she said.
"To have snow and the amount of heat that was there and the amount of other adverse weather is pretty unusual."
She continued: "Right now, the supermarkets have chosen a particular way, that's why we will continue to meet them and I'm hoping that this will be a temporary issue."
Shadow environment secretary Jim McMahon called her response "detached from the reality on the ground" and questioned "this idea that somehow it's all external forces" of COVID, Brexit, Ukraine and energy prices behind the crisis.
"If the government don't understand that food security is national security... frankly there is no hope for the nation," he said.
"UK food security does remain resilient," Ms Coffey stressed, adding "we will continue to invest in our farmers for generations to come".
Even if the government "cannot control the weather, it is important that we try and make sure the supply continues to not be frustrated in quite the way it has been due to these unusual weather incidents," she added.
Read more:
These vegetables could be rationed this year
Fish and chips 'yet to reach price peak'
Earlier this week the UK's largest tomato grower, APS Produce, which also imports tomatoes in winter to meet demand, told Sky News the shortage of British tomatoes would last until the end of April.
That's because high energy bills deterred growers from planting tomatoes in lit, heated glasshouses in winter, delaying the usual March harvest.
Phil Pearson, group development director at APS Produce, said a "perfect storm" of energy costs hitting UK growers, bad weather in Spain and North Africa and the pandemic had impacted harvests.
"All those things combined... [means] there aren't any tomatoes. No matter what you want to pay," he said. "And that's a real challenge".
Some British farmers are also still recovering from last year's drought, which was driven by climate change.
The British Tomato Growers Association (BTGA) said consumers expect to see "significant volumes" of British tomatoes on supermarket shelves by the end of March and early April.
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Agriculture
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Nationwide retailer Target is encouraging more consumers to use the convenience of its curbside order pick-up service with the addition of a new perk: Starbucks coffee. The company announced today that customers will be able to add a Starbucks beverage or food item to their Drive Up order — a feature that will be available at the more than 1,700 Target locations that have Starbucks Cafés by this October.
The addition of Starbucks to Drive Up orders — orders where customers can remain in their car instead of having to go inside the store for a pickup order — was first announced in February 2022. At the time, the retailer said it would begin “testing” the option alongside both Drive Up pickup orders and returns. The service was then expected as part of a planned expansion in the fall of 2022. Early testers included store employees before rolling out to Target customers in the company’s hometown of Minneapolis.
Though a bit of a belated public launch, the service will likely appeal to the Target shopper who often likes to combine their coffee run with browsing the store, when shopping. Now, they’ll be able to do the same when they’re too busy to head into the store and wait in line. Plus, the perk builds on the convenience Starbucks’ own customers have already come to expect in terms of order pickups, which have been available through the Starbucks app for years.
In Target’s case, however, the Starbucks orders will be added through Target’s mobile app instead. Here, customers will be able to place their Target orders for curbside pickup, then alert the store when they’re on their way. That real-time location sharing ties into the Starbucks ordering option so the store staff knows when to begin preparing the drink orders.
Target and Starbucks first partnered in 1999 and now have a Starbucks location inside the “vast majority” of the retailer’s over 1,999 U.S. stores.
The feature follows the recent addition of curbside returns, which allows shoppers to return items at no charge at nearly all Target stores.
“Our guests have long told us Drive Up is a game-changer, adding convenience to their daily life, especially when they’re short on time,” said Mark Schindele, Target’s chief stores officer, in an announcement of today’s news. “We’ve continued listening to our guests, who’ve told us overwhelmingly that Drive Up with Starbucks would bring even more ease and joy to every Target run. This one-of-a-kind service — available only at Target — is the latest example of how we’re innovating every day to meet the needs of our guests,” he added.
In Target’s most recent quarter, the company beat expectations on earnings and revenue, but saw only small growth in year-over-year sales, as customers gravitated more towards groceries and everyday essentials, as opposed to more discretionary items, while they watched their wallets. The company reported $25.32 billion in revenue and $2.05 earnings per share, above Wall St. forecasts of $25.29 billion and $1.76 EPS, respectively.
The addition of Starbucks to Drive Up orders could potentially lure more customers to choose Target for their everyday purchases over the competition, but it may not boost their spending or the types of purchases made in general.
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Consumer & Retail
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If summer is a season of spontaneity and indulgence, then fall offers a counterpoint: It's a chance to get back on schedule, and back on budget.
"Summer, with travel and no school, tends to be a really spendy time. The fall is a nice reset," said Ashley Feinstein Gerstley, a certified financial planner and author of "The 30-Day Money Cleanse."
Gerstley says giving yourself a "money cleanse" offers a chance to carefully go over your spending and financial habits so you can make any necessary changes to end the year strong. With inflation and economic uncertainty in the background, that's no easy task, but putting in the extra effort now can pay off.
Here's a step-by-step guide to a fall financial cleanse that could help get your budget on track for the rest of the year:
Start with a look back
Nate Hoskin, a CFP and financial assistant at Brightside, a provider of financial wellness to employees, says the first step to a fall financial cleanse is to look backward, starting with your New Year's goals. He suggests checking on progress toward resolutions set in January so you can make any needed adjustments.
Then, Hoskin said, initiate what he calls a "financial audit," which means tracking all of your spending over the last couple of months by poring over credit card and bank statements. From there, you can see what unexpected expenses popped up or why it has been so hard to save. "With inflation, it's extremely challenging, and you might find your budget didn't work even if you did everything right, because some things are out of your control," he added.
He suggests giving yourself the chance to make small changes going forward without dwelling on previous missteps.
"Knowing where our money is going is a huge shift and can help us change our habits," Gerstley said.
Try a budget
If you don't yet follow a budget to help you track your spending, then the fall is a great time to give one a try, said Ashley Lapato, a financial expert on TikTok who posts as @TheOrganizedWallet and is a spokesperson for the budgeting app YNAB.
"I always think the first step is a zero-based budget," she said, which means every dollar is accounted for, including money set aside for savings and any debt payments.
"It forces you to confront spending decisions and to get really clear about financial priorities," she said, because you comb through every little bit of spending.
Establish a new morning habit
Lapato likes to start each day with a quick check of her own budget. For fewer than five minutes every morning, she logs in to her budgeting app or checks her bank account and financial goals.
"Doing this has changed my perspective. It puts me in the right brain space in the morning if I'm looking at bills, goals and things I want to accomplish," she said. Then, when she has to make spending decisions later in her day, her balances and goals are top of mind.
Prioritize paying off debt
Stuart Boxenbaum, president of Statewide Financial Group, a financial advisory firm, said that with interest rates rising, this fall is also a great time to aggressively pay off high-interest or variable-rate debt, such as credit card debt.
"Before you sock away other money into savings, pay off high-interest debt — if you're paying 18% or higher on a credit card, then it's a no-brainer. Pay off the debt first," he said, because yields on savings accounts are far lower than those interest rates.
Check your tax situation
A money cleanse should also include a tax checkup, said Karla Dennis, an enrolled tax agent and founder of Karla Dennis and Associates, a tax and accounting services firm. "You could go all year long and assume your withholdings are on point, but you might be short," she said, which would mean a surprise tax bill in April if too little taxes have been coming out of your paycheck.
To avoid that fate, she suggests using the IRS' tax withholding estimator tool. Enter your personal information and get an estimate of how much to withhold so you can make any necessary adjustments for the remaining months of the year. If you were recently married, received a pay increase or started earning extra money through a side hustle, then estimating your withholding is especially important, Dennis adds, because you might be at a higher risk of withholding too little.
Make space for fun
Budgeting, debt and taxes aren't exactly words that people associate with fun. That's why it's so important to also build treats into your budget, Lapato said, because doing so can actually help keep you on track. "Sometimes, we need that serotonin boost," she said. For her, that usually means splurging on a new blush or book.
"Instead of feeling guilty, I have it built into my budget as its own category," she said, adding that she sets aside a bit of money every month for this purpose. "Give yourself permission to enjoy life," she added — a philosophy that applies to this fall and beyond.
This column was provided to The Associated Press by the personal finance website NerdWallet. Kimberly Palmer is a personal finance expert at NerdWallet and the author of "Smart Mom, Rich Mom."
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Personal Finance & Financial Education
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The founders of a failed California tech company were charged by federal authorities Thursday for their roles in a $100 million fraud scheme in which they bankrolled their lavish lifestyles and hefty salaries.
Irma Olguin, Jr. and Jake Soberal, who headed the Fresno-based startup Bitwise Industries, surrendered to authorities on charges they conspired to commit wire fraud and took millions of dollars from various businesses and individuals, the US attorney for the Eastern District of California announced.
The pair allegedly created a tangled web of lies and fabricated documents to create the illusion the private technology company was succeeding.
They are accused of fabricating bank statements, lying to investors, providing false financial information to their board of directors, forging documents, and using buildings Bitwise no longer even owned as collateral for loans, “all while lining their own pockets,” United States Attorney Phillip Talbert said in a press release.
Olguin and Soberal allegedly agreed to start their complicated string of lies in January 2022, 16 months before Bitwise abruptly collapsed — despite recent reports the company was worth over $500,000,000 and was financially sound.
The duo allegedly faked its financial records to obtain investments, loans and other funding, which they put toward Bitwise’s payroll and fringe benefits, outfitting the company’s office spaces and repaying debts owed to prior lenders.
They also took care to fulfill their own $600,000 annual salaries, investigators said.
When the scheme was finally exposed in May 2023, the company’s 900 employees and apprentices were immediately furloughed and later laid off.
Olguin and Soberal were fired by the company’s board of directors and Bitwise filed for bankruptcy protection the following month.
“These sorts of white-collar crimes often root from greed and mismanagement and leave hard-working tax-paying citizens damaged in their wake,” Mark Silva, IRS Criminal Investigation Acting Special Agent in Charge of the Oakland Field Office, said in a statement.
The pair have admitted to carrying out the scheme, but plead not guilty in court in a Fresno courthouse Thursday.
They claimed they did so in a genuine effort to resuscitate the dying business.
“Jake and Irma have taken full responsibility for the mistakes they made while trying to preserve Bitwise. Their sincere desire not to see Bitwise fail caused them to make numerous grave and consequential errors in judgment,” lawyers for Soberal and Olguin said in a statement.
Both have agreed to a bar preventing them from serving as officers or directors of public companies, as well as other penalties, the SEC said.
If convicted, the two face a maximum penalty of 20 years in prison and a $250,000 fine.
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Banking & Finance
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Remember when we were inundated with crypto commercials starring Matt Damon, major sports league sponsorships, and drawings of apes? For those in the mainstream, cryptocurrency seems pretty much dead. However, the crypto community is still very much alive online. Investors, speculators, and scammers have been holding out during this long bear market, hoping that the next big crypto project will come along and turn their dimes back into dollars.
Many think they've found that very project in Friend.tech, which has gone viral in the crypto community over the past few days. A leaked database shows that more than 101,000 users have signed up since the invite-only beta version of the app launched on Aug. 10.
And, of course, because this is crypto, making money is the factor here — and Friend.tech is already pulling in millions. According to CoinDesk, over the past 24 hours alone, Friend.tech has seen more than $1.04 million in transaction fees, generating just over $709,000 in revenue. Since it launched less than two weeks ago, Friend.tech has made around $25 million.
So, what is Friend.tech?
Simply put, Friend.tech is a mobile-based social media platform with a cryptocurrency twist. The app markets itself as "the marketplace for your friends" on its website. Much like other, non-crypto social media platforms that are in beta — like BlueSky — Friend.tech requires users to have an invite code from other users in order to sign up.
Friend.tech basically provides each user with their own Telegram-like chat group. In order for others to enter a user's private group chat, they need to buy shares in that user. If and when they decide to leave that group chat, they can sell those shares to other users.
Basically, Friend.tech is streamlining the old process in which Twitter influencers would hawk their own personal memecoins to their followers by attaching it directly to their identity and providing a premium feature, in this case, access to a private chat channel. It has all the other classic schemes usually connected to crypto projects as well, such as a fee-sharing mechanism and airdrops to reward users.
So far, some crypto influencers have publicized that they've earned dozens in ether. One ether is worth approximately $1,670 as of the publication of this article.
What are some of the issues?
This is a crypto project, so know that at the heart of this is a product that encourages highly-volatile speculation. Furthermore, while some will certainly make money off this, like most products in the crypto space, it's unlikely to be those outside of the tightly-knit crypto-influencer circles.
There are some other causes for concern that some critics have pointed out as well.
The Friend.tech app requires users to link their Ethereum wallet with their account on X, the platform formerly known as Twitter. This created two issues. For one, some users realized that this gave the Friend.tech account certain permissions to their X account — like the ability to post and retweet on their behalf. The second issue is that, when the Friend.tech database was leaked, its contents publicly linked an X account to the crypto wallet it signed up with, something that the user may not have made public before.
Tweet may have been deleted
Friend.tech has been described as a decentralized social Web3 app and, with all those buzzwords lumped in together, one can be sure there's a lot of inorganic hype behind this one as well. Like with the vast majority of these crypto projects, there's likely behind-the-scenes coordination with various big names in the space on what to buy and when to sell, which gives them quite an advantage over the average user.
Is this a scam?
Well, again, this is a crypto project. In the opinion of many critics who have covered the industry, the entire crypto space is a scam.
Tweet may have been deleted
Scammers have already descended on Friend.tech after seeing how quickly it has blown up. Multiple phishing campaigns have already spread, attempting to trick users into signing up for a fake airdrop scheme which would then effectively drain their crypto wallets.
And then there's the issue of who is behind Friend.tech. The team is entirely anonymous — as in, the actual identity of who's running the app is unknown. It's probably a good idea to know who, exactly, is behind a project if one is to invest a significant sum of money into it.
Tweet may have been deleted
However, some within the crypto community have already looked into the history of the known online pseudonyms behind Friend.tech and there are already red flags. Members of the team behind Friend.tech were allegedly also behind a project called Kosetto, which sold wearable NFT stickers. Kosetto was hyped in a similar fashion towards the end of 2022, encouraging users to spam their referral codes on social media in order to win NFTs and invest in their much larger idea to come in the future. Then, suddenly, in early 2023, the project was abandoned, without notice to users who had invested. Kosetto's social media accounts haven't been updated since January.
However, unlike when they were working on Kosetto, the team from Friend.tech appears to have received some financial backing for their latest project. Friend.tech has received a round of seed funding from the crypto VC firm Paradigm, something that might ease the minds of users investing in the social media app.
Who else has Paradigm invested in? FTX, the failed crypto exchange founded by Sam Bankman-Fried who currently sits in jail while he awaits trial for multiple charges of wire fraud, securities fraud, and money laundering. The crypto-centric VC fund invested $278 million in the exchange, which it later told investors was now worthless.
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Welcome back to The Interchange, where we take a look at the hottest fintech news of the previous week. If you want to receive The Interchange directly in your inbox every Sunday, head here to sign up! We covered lots of happenings in the world of fintech this past week — including raises, a startup closure, some drama between a couple of fintechs and a bank, and much more.
Female leaders in fintech
I don’t get to report on female leaders in fintech as often as I’d like. This week, I had the opportunity to talk to, and write about, two. Their stories were very different — but both very important.
Early last week, I stumbled upon a blog post written by Amanda Peyton, who co-founded Braid, a startup marketing a shared wallet for friends and family to pool their money together for certain things such as a trip. Peyton was refreshingly candid about the demise of the company, which shut down last month. She not only accepted responsibility for its failure, but she also detailed — almost excruciatingly so — what she believes went wrong. The concept was a good one but execution was not easy. Problems with finding a sponsor bank set the company behind. Relying on third-party software was another issue.
But Peyton, who has founded other companies in the past — one of which sold to Etsy — is not letting Braid’s closure get her down. She scooped up the IP for Braid and hinted there’s more to come. Her attitude was upbeat. She told me that startup failure is simply a part of the life cycle. And she’s right. Over 90% of startups fail. That’s 9-0. With such a great attitude, something tells me we’ll be hearing about a new venture involving Peyton sooner rather than later. Read all about her experience with Braid — which was backed by Index Ventures and Accel — here.
Listen to me and the rest of the Equity team talk more about it here.
I also wrote about Stash, an investing app that is aimed at lower- to middle-income consumers. The company just secured $40 million in a convertible note led by existing and early backer T. Rowe Price. While many companies don’t always like to admit they’ve let go of workers, CEO Liza Landsman shared with me that Stash had trimmed its staff by over 35% in the past 22 months or so — from 500 at the start of 2022 to about 320 now. The company is working hard to ready itself for the public markets. And investors often like it when a company takes steps such as layoffs to reduce burn. As part of its goal to go public, Stash also revealed it has tapped Amy Butte to serve as its first independent audit chair, something she believes is crucial for a consumer fintech in particular that is planning to go public. Butte is no stranger to fintech and seemed genuinely enthusiastic about Stash and its mission.
I also got a comment from an investor — Rebecca Kaden, managing partner at Union Square Ventures. I can’t remember if I’ve ever talked to three different women for one fintech story before. Love to see it!
You can read all the details about Stash here. — Mary Ann
The Synapse, Evolve saga
What happens when companies don’t want to work with each other anymore? Synapse, which operates a platform enabling banks and fintech companies to easily develop financial services, was providing those types of services as an intermediary between banking partner Evolve Bank & Trust and business banking startup Mercury.
When Evolve just wanted to work with Mercury, the bank notified Synapse of that and discussed how it would work with Synapse to wind down the relationship. Only that turned into a mess when Evolve’s and Synapse’s private letters became public in a lengthy Fintech Business Weekly post from October 8 that claimed the companies were at odds with each other after Evolve decided to end the relationship with Synapse.
Naturally, both companies wanted to clear the air. Here’s what they had to say. — Christine
Weekly news
After a fruitful second quarter, funding to fintech startups took a tumble in the third quarter, according to figures released by Tracxn. Total funding fell 51% to $2.7 billion compared with $5.5 billion in capital infusions into the industry in the same quarter of 2022. There was just one unicorn born, Kin Insurance (read some of our earlier Kin coverage), while seven companies raised over $100 million.
Rob Curtis, who co-founded LGBTQ+-focused neobank Daylight, shared on LinkedIn that he has officially moved on from fintech. (In May, TechCrunch reported on the company’s decision to shutter after being sued by employees.) We don’t know much yet about his new venture other than it’s a consumer tequila company based in Mexico City. He also mentioned that Daylight had been acquired, but when we reached out to learn more, he declined to comment.
Several stories came out of India this week, both reported by Manish Singh: First, Mastercard CFO Sachin Mehra, while praising the country’s digital payment system, known as UPI, also panned it while speaking at a UBS conference, saying, “It is an incredibly painful experience for ecosystem participants who all end up losing money as part of that proposition.” Meanwhile, banks are the hot new investment target for venture capital and private equity investors, and they are working on investment vehicles to set that in motion.
As reported by Aisha Malik: Last week, Klarna introduced a suite of new features, including an AI-powered image-search tool called Shopping lens. The Swedish fintech giant is also launching shoppable videos in Europe, in-store product scanning, a new cashback program, express refunds and more.
Manish Singh also reports that Brazil, the second largest market for WhatsApp, has suspended the instant messaging app’s mobile payments service in the country a week after its rollout in what is the latest setback for Facebook. In a statement, Brazil’s central bank said it was taking the decision to “preserve an adequate competitive environment” in the mobile payments space and to ensure “functioning of a payment system that’s interchangeable, fast, secure, transparent, open and cheap.”
Block, the Jack Dorsey–founded fintech company previously known as Square, has acquired Hifi, a music-focused fintech startup, for an undisclosed amount. Hifi launched in 2020 as a financial rights organization for artists, enabling users to track their royalty income through a dashboard that aggregates data from music labels, distribution services, music publishers and performing rights organizations (PROs). This marks Block’s second investment in music tech after buying music streaming service Tidal in 2021. More here from Lauren Forristal.
Adyen lost $13 billion in market cap last month when investors scrambled to sell shares after the payments company missed quarterly revenue targets. But it’s not the only one facing the music in fintech. Shares in SumUp, a privately held European payment technology business that focuses on point-of-sale transactions, are currently being sold in inside sales (to other existing investors in the company) at a valuation that might be as low as $4.1 billion — a drop of nearly 52% on SumUp’s previous valuation of $8.5 billion, achieved when it raised $624 million in June 2022. More here.
Greentoe, an e-commerce negotiation site and graduate of Y Combinator that has facilitated over $700 million in transactions, has acquired DiscountBandit.com. TechCrunch originally reported on Greentoe, which developed a “Name Your Price” feature, in 2014.
Other items we are reading:
Grow Credit Inc., financial inclusion offers is a game changer (Read TC’s previous coverage of Grow Credit.)
Funding and M&A
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How a £1 pay rise could cost you £14,000: Tiny salary bump could strip workers of thousands in income due to 'ridiculous complexities' in tax and benefits systemAnalysis by stockbroker AJ Bell revealed a £1 pay rise could cost you thousands If a parent's salary rose to £100,001 they would lose out on child care allowancesThere Government provided 30 hours of free child care would also be halved Published: 05:23 EST, 8 January 2023 | Updated: 05:25 EST, 8 January 2023 A tiny bump of as little of a £1 more each year could result in workers losing thousands of pounds in income due to 'ridiculous complexities' in the tax and benefits system.In the worst possible outcome, a person could end up losing £14,000 if their salary was increased by £1 this year.This is because they would no longer be eligible for tax breaks and childcare allowances.Analysis from stockbroker and investment platform AJ Bell, revealed a worker with three young children would be wealthier if they rejected a slightly higher pay offer of more than £100,000 a year. A tiny bump of as little of a £1 more each year could result in workers losing thousands of pounds in income due to 'ridiculous complexities' in the tax and benefits systemThe analysis, published in The Telegraph, showed that such taxpayers would lose thousands per child once their salary increased to over £100,000.This is because once parents reach this salary, it pushes them into a higher tax threshold, resulting in the loss of tax-free childcare, up to £2,000 per child.The amount of Government provided free childcare the parent would be entitled to would also be slashed from 30 hours free to 15 hours.Those living in England with a child aged three to four-years-old are entitled to 30 hours of free childcare so long as it's with an approved childcare provider and the funding stops when the child starts reception. AJ Bell said this would cost the parent an estimated extra £7,952, resulting in the taxpayer to pay for additional childcare which could cost £13,952. Head of personal finance at AJ Bell Laura Suter said those who are hit by higher tax margins should look into making larger pension contributions in an attempt to avoid crossing the £100,000 thresholdThis was based on the Coram Childcare report's estimated costs of the hourly rate of childcare for those living on the outskirts of London.On top of reduced childcare allowances, those earning between £100,000 and £125,140 would see their tax-free personal allowance of £12,570 become weaker at a rate of £1 for every £2 earned, the Telegraph reports.This means that a taxpayer earning just under £100,000 a year who is given a £1,000 increase on their salary will then lose £400 to income tax and an extra £500 from their personal allowance, being taxed at 40 per cent.The tax bracket increase would be mean £600 of the £1,000 pay rise would be lost, with National Insurance payments increase of two per cent.If the individual had a student loan, these repayments would be ramped up to nine per cent.Even if one parent earns just £1, the threshold at £100,001 and the other parent does not work, the family would not be entitled to the £2,000 in free childcare. If one parent earns just £1, the threshold at £100,001 and the other parent does not work, the family would not be entitled to the £2,000 in free childcareHowever, if both parents were earning £1 under the threshold, at £99,999, they would still be entitled to free childcare.Head of personal finance at AJ Bell, Laura Suter said: 'The tragic thing is that many parents won’t be aware that they have fallen foul of the rules until the taxman comes knocking, landing them with a tax bill for thousands.'She said the analysis revealed the 'brutal flaws' and 'ridiculous complexities' in Britain's tax system, adding that those who are hit by higher tax margins should look into making larger pension contributions in an attempt to avoid crossing the £100,000 threshold.By doing this it will mean workers will not lose their entitlement to tax-free childcare or free childcare.Ms Suter added: 'People who are self-employed through their own business may want to consider whether they pay themselves a lower salary, so they stay under the threshold, if that’s financially practical.' Advertisement
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Adani-Hindenburg Case: Supreme Court Upholds Confidence In SEBI, Ruling Reserved
A statutory regulator cannot solely rely on newspaper sources as gospel truth, says CJI.
The Supreme Court on Friday reserved its judgement on a series of public interest lawsuits alleging contempt of court against SEBI in relation to the Adani-Hindenburg investigation.
The allegations specifically concern violations of stock market regulations. The bench, consisting of Chief Justice of India DY Chandrachud, along with Justices JB Pardiwala and Manoj Misra, presided over the matter.
During the proceedings, Advocate Prashant Bhushan, representing petitioner Anamika Jaiswal, referred to the "factual revelations" in the Hindenburg report. In response, Chief Justice Chandrachud emphasised that the court could not proceed under the assumption that the report was inherently true, stressing the necessity for an investigation.
"We don't have to accept the Hindenburg report as ipso facto factually correct. That is why we asked SEBI to investigate," he said.
However, Bhushan raised concerns about the Securities and Exchange Board of India's role, alleging that it was "suspect" due to its awareness of Adani group violations since 2014. He pointed to a letter from January 2014 by Najeeb Shah, director of revenue intelligence, indicating fund syphoning by Adani Power Ltd. through over-invoicing coal imports.
Bhushan criticised SEBI for purportedly feigning ignorance of this letter and failing to conduct a formal investigation.
In response, Chief Justice Chandrachud questioned the relevance of the 2014 letter, specifically asking if the overvaluation of imports was directly linked to the present subject matter and whether an investigation into this allegation would pertain to the Directorate of Revenue Intelligence itself.
During the court proceedings, the Chief Justice of India expressed a cautious approach regarding the trustworthiness of SEBI, emphasising that it is a statutory body with a specific mandate to investigate stock market manipulation.
The CJI questioned the appropriateness of the court's declaration of a lack of trust in SEBI without substantial evidence, suggesting that such a decision should be made with careful consideration.
In response, advocate Prashant Bhushan raised various points, including those unearthed by the Hindenburg, Guardian, and Financial Times, and implied that SEBI should have considered these in its investigation.
CJI countered, stating that a statutory regulator cannot solely rely on newspaper sources, even reputable ones like the Financial Times, as gospel truth. He clarified that while the court doesn't doubt the sources, they cannot be considered evidentiary for SEBI.
As the proceedings neared a conclusion, the CJI asked Bhushan about the relief sought, to which Bhushan emphasised the disclosure of beneficial owners and expressed doubts about SEBI's due diligence in the investigation.
Bhushan proposed that another Special Investigation Team or a group of experts conduct the investigation.
Disclaimer: AMG Media Networks Ltd. (AMNL) currently owns a 49% stake in Quintillion Business Media Ltd. (QBML), the owner of BQ Prime Brand. AMNL has entered into an MOU to acquire the balance 51% stake in QBML. Post acquisition, QBML will become a wholly owned subsidiary of AMNL.
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NEW YORK/WASHINGTON, Nov 10 (Reuters) - Moody's on Friday lowered its outlook on the U.S. credit rating to "negative" from "stable" citing large fiscal deficits and a decline in debt affordability, a move that drew immediate criticism from President Joe Biden's administration.
The move follows a rating downgrade of the sovereign by another ratings agency, Fitch, this year, which came after months of political brinkmanship around the U.S. debt ceiling.
Federal spending and political polarization have been a rising concern for investors, contributing to a selloff that took U.S. government bond prices to their lowest levels in 16 years.
"It is hard to disagree with the rationale, with no reasonable expectation for fiscal consolidation any time soon," said Christopher Hodge, chief economist for the U.S. at Natixis. "Deficits will remain large ... and as interest costs take up a larger share of the budget, the debt burden will continue to grow."
The ratings agency said in a statement that "continued political polarization" in Congress raises the risk that lawmakers will not be able to reach consensus on a fiscal plan to slow the decline in debt affordability."
"Any type of significant policy response that we might be able to see to this declining fiscal strength probably wouldn't happen until 2025 because of the reality of the political calendar next year," William Foster, a senior vice president at Moody's, told Reuters in an interview.
Republicans, who control the U.S. House of Representatives, expect to release a stopgap spending measure on Saturday aimed at averting a partial government shutdown by keeping federal agencies open when current funding expires next Friday.
Moody's is the last of the three major rating agencies to maintain a top rating for the U.S. government. Fitch changed its rating from triple-A to AA+ in August, joining S&P which has had an AA+ rating since 2011.
While it changed its outlook, indicating a downgrade is possible over the medium term, Moody's affirmed its long-term issuer and senior unsecured ratings at 'Aha' citing U.S. credit and economic strengths.
Immediately after the Moody's release, White House spokesperson Karine Jean-Pierre said the change was "yet another consequence of congressional Republican extremism and dysfunction."
“While the statement by Moody’s maintains the United States’ AAA rating, we disagree with the shift to a negative outlook. The American economy remains strong, and Treasury securities are the world’s preeminent safe and liquid asset," Deputy Treasury Secretary Wally Adeyemo said in a statement.
Adeyemo said the Biden administration had demonstrated its commitment to fiscal sustainability, including through over $1 trillion in deficit reduction measures included in a June agreement struck with Congress on raising the U.S. debt limit, and Biden’s proposal to reduce the deficit by nearly $2.5 trillion over the next decade.
Treasury yields have soared this year on expectations the Federal Reserve will keep monetary policy tight, as well as on U.S.-focused fiscal concerns.
The sharp rise in Treasury yields "has increased pre-existing pressure on US debt affordability," Moody's said.
A Moody's downgrade could exacerbate fiscal concerns, but investors have said they are skeptical it would have a material impact on the U.S. bond market, seen as a safe haven because of its depth and liquidity.
However, “it is a reminder that the clock is ticking and the markets are moving closer and closer to understanding that we could go into another period of drama that could lead ultimately to the government shutting down," said Quincy Krosby, chief global strategist at LPL Financial.
Moody's decision also comes as Biden, who is seeking reelection in 2024, has seen his support fall sharply in the polls. A New York Times/Siena poll released on Sunday showed him trailing former President Donald Trump, the leading Republican candidate, in five of six battleground states: Nevada, Georgia, Arizona, Michigan and Pennsylvania. Biden was ahead of Trump in Wisconsin. The outcome in those six states will help determine who wins the presidential election.
The Moody's move will also heap pressure on congressional Republicans to advance funding legislation to avert a partial government shutdown.
U.S. House Speaker Mike Johnson has spent days in talks with members of his slim 221-212 Republican majority about several stopgap measures. The House and the Democratic-led Senate must agree on a vehicle that Biden can sign into law before current funding expires on Nov. 17.
"We cannot, in good conscience, continue writing blank checks to our federal government knowing that our children and grandchildren will be responsible for the largest debt in American history,” hardline Republican Representative Andy Harris said on X, formerly known as Twitter.
Infighting among House Republicans has led to flirtations with government shutdowns yet both parties have contributed to budget deficits.
Biden's Democrats have backed a wide range of spending plans, while Republicans pushed through sharp tax cuts early in Donald Trump's presidency that also fed the deficit. Neither party has seriously addressed rising costs of the Social Security and Medicare programs that represent a significant slice of federal spending.
Reporting by Richard Rohan Francis, Davide Barbuscia, Andrea Shalal, David Morgan, Saeed Azhar and Caroline Valetkevitch; writing by Ira Iosebashvili; Editing by Megan Davies, Shilpi Majumdar, Shounak Dasgupta, David Gregorio, Chris Reese and Diane Craft
Our Standards: The Thomson Reuters Trust Principles.
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