void-32/EV-conversation · Datasets at Hugging Face

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When do I ever learn to take the Dremel to the inside of my BB before installing something electronic, that is going to fill the BB area completely
It came out and took the wires with it
No way to take it apart without tools, which are going to be around the same as a new torque sensor
Also the part with the wire is plastic, so one has to be very careful that it's not getting stuck on anything
Ouch.
You can rent a puller for free from Autozone @cnrd
This bike is great an all but
I snapped my chain :(
Oh well, time to push the thing back 3 miles
üòÖ
Push? Can‚Äôt you just pedal?
@TheGrayWolf81 Protip: don't use chain breaker tools to reassemble a chain, use master links for that
Second protip: if it snaps because it fell off and got munched, switch to a narrow-wide sprocket
I‚Äôm so dumb
> Snaps chain
‚Äújust pedal‚Äù
pedal faster, maybe the wind resistance from your feet kicking will work
> Push? Can‚Äôt you just pedal?
@Akbar most of it is at a slight uphill, just enough to render pedaling impossible on this bohemoth.
Ouch
Ride it like a skateboard
600 IQ
> @TheGrayWolf81 Protip: don't use chain breaker tools to reassemble a chain, use master links for that
@Black Moons Yep, that's exactly what the cause was. The crank-to-wheel chain is brand new with a master link, but the motor-to-crank chain is the original chain from the bike which I stupidly tried to put back together with a chain tool XD
I expected it to snap again at some point. Just, I was having too much fun and forgot about it XD
Just put a master link on it though
Everything is good
Except the chain tensioner. @Black Moons how did you install yours?
Like the manual says to
spring goes to a ziptie
> manual
I didn't even realize there was a manual
http://sickbikeparts.com/content/Manuals/3000W.pdf
Thank you
Back to this channel again :(
Rip
Most of the cell groups are between 3.4-3.5v
ouch
But there are two that are around 3.2-3.3v
One cell group is at 3v
:/
o o o f
So I guess I found my issue
lack of tissues?
But I don't have any more of those cells to replace the bad cell group
don't say the c-word around @Deleted User
;0
No, I think I damaged the cell group when I was first testing out the bike before I had a BMS and charger
Well since I didn't have a charger, undervolted obviously :P
I did a few circles around the neighborhood because I couldn't hold back
Then I measured the cell groups and saw that one of them was at 2.4v
The next day they probably equalized and we're at 2.8v
But they stood that way for a week and a half until I got the BMS and charger
Well 2.8 is the minimum voltage. And a week isn't that bad. its if they stay for like a month that way that it starts to do damage
It should theoretically be around 12.4Ah
> maybe you can find some random salvage cells for free that'll be good to swap in
@Deleted User no, I need the same exact cells
I just don't feel like it's worth the time and money trying to fix this pack. I'll just keep using it until I get new cells and equipment to spot weld and build the battery
It's just super annoying when the BMS protection kicks in, there's no reset button. I have to replug the balance cables
But I'll use it until I build a new pack
@TheGrayWolf81 It should auto reset once the voltage gets high enough, ie you charge the battery
Yeah
Not helpful when you need to just get home slowly though
fo sheezy
just make a BMS with hundreds of 40A switches in it
I have to say though, I still get decent range for what the pack is
It's funny how there's all these muscle car guys who but all this time money and effort into making their cars fast and powerful
Then they get yeeted by a Tesla
I'll be so happy when battery technology advances to the point where battery packs don't have to be so huge and heavy
Im still waiting for aluminum-air batteries to be sold like $10 for a KWH pack at the corner store.
(Actually I guess it would need to be a few orders of magnatude cheaper for car use... even for bike use $10/kwh is pricy)
what?
they are one time use.
recharging an aluminum air battery = you throw it back into the aluminum smelter and pour a new one.
Its convenient when you can instantly recharge shit and your 1KWH battery is smaller then a can of pop
I see it as a great option for range extension
Pretty sure it is actually.
at least, best conceivable we have proven to work, not spontaniously explode/need to be kept at 400c, etc.
there is crazy amounts of energy in aluminum->aluminum oxide transission
shrugs
Silver-air batteries already do it.
only problem is the cost on those is crazy.
did you know the power company has been charging you for the same electrons since you moved in?
just shares em between you and your neighbors -_-
they have fancy ass electrons that get to travel and see the world over the HV lines, but they never share those üò¢
üôÇ yea. (For others who are wondering what im talking about, electrons don't pass through transformers primary to secondary, so your basically just stuck using the same electrons over and over on your side of the transformer)
Yep
electrons don't even really get to see the world üòõ
they are stuck going back and forth along the same 36km of wire or so üòõ
Funky.
https://i.redd.it/18z7ygcy6ei51.jpg Fail
TIL if you have cable disc breaks and your cable is too long, it will eventually find its way into the rotor and try to kill you. Trim cables
ouch.
Yikes hope the dudes ok
Remember, never tow a 600cc with a 250cc.
Battery wasn‚Äôt sparking when plugging in Anderson... could just be the BMS shutting it off as protection... so be me and just use a cheap Chinese battery instead to see if it‚Äôs the battery‚Äôs fault.
Cell instantly explodes
Good BMS right there
lol shorted controller or something?
I‚Äôm scared to try it again üò¶

When do I ever learn to take the Dremel to the inside of my BB before installing something electronic, that is going to fill the BB area completely

It came out and took the wires with it

No way to take it apart without tools, which are going to be around the same as a new torque sensor

Also the part with the wire is plastic, so one has to be very careful that it's not getting stuck on anything

Ouch.

You can rent a puller for free from Autozone @cnrd

This bike is great an all but

I snapped my chain :(

Oh well, time to push the thing back 3 miles

üòÖ

Push? Can‚Äôt you just pedal?

@TheGrayWolf81 Protip: don't use chain breaker tools to reassemble a chain, use master links for that

Second protip: if it snaps because it fell off and got munched, switch to a narrow-wide sprocket

I‚Äôm so dumb

> Snaps chain

‚Äújust pedal‚Äù

pedal faster, maybe the wind resistance from your feet kicking will work

> Push? Can‚Äôt you just pedal?

@Akbar most of it is at a slight uphill, just enough to render pedaling impossible on this bohemoth.

Ouch

Ride it like a skateboard

600 IQ

> @TheGrayWolf81 Protip: don't use chain breaker tools to reassemble a chain, use master links for that

@Black Moons Yep, that's exactly what the cause was. The crank-to-wheel chain is brand new with a master link, but the motor-to-crank chain is the original chain from the bike which I stupidly tried to put back together with a chain tool XD

I expected it to snap again at some point. Just, I was having too much fun and forgot about it XD

Just put a master link on it though

Everything is good

Except the chain tensioner. @Black Moons how did you install yours?

Like the manual says to

spring goes to a ziptie

> manual

I didn't even realize there was a manual

http://sickbikeparts.com/content/Manuals/3000W.pdf

Thank you

Back to this channel again :(

Rip

Most of the cell groups are between 3.4-3.5v

ouch

But there are two that are around 3.2-3.3v

One cell group is at 3v

:/

o o o f

So I guess I found my issue

lack of tissues?

But I don't have any more of those cells to replace the bad cell group

don't say the c-word around @Deleted User

;0

No, I think I damaged the cell group when I was first testing out the bike before I had a BMS and charger

Well since I didn't have a charger, undervolted obviously :P

I did a few circles around the neighborhood because I couldn't hold back

Then I measured the cell groups and saw that one of them was at 2.4v

The next day they probably equalized and we're at 2.8v

But they stood that way for a week and a half until I got the BMS and charger

Well 2.8 is the minimum voltage. And a week isn't that bad. its if they stay for like a month that way that it starts to do damage

It should theoretically be around 12.4Ah

> maybe you can find some random salvage cells for free that'll be good to swap in

@Deleted User no, I need the same exact cells

I just don't feel like it's worth the time and money trying to fix this pack. I'll just keep using it until I get new cells and equipment to spot weld and build the battery

It's just super annoying when the BMS protection kicks in, there's no reset button. I have to replug the balance cables

But I'll use it until I build a new pack

@TheGrayWolf81 It should auto reset once the voltage gets high enough, ie you charge the battery

Yeah

Not helpful when you need to just get home slowly though

fo sheezy

just make a BMS with hundreds of 40A switches in it

I have to say though, I still get decent range for what the pack is

It's funny how there's all these muscle car guys who but all this time money and effort into making their cars fast and powerful

Then they get yeeted by a Tesla

I'll be so happy when battery technology advances to the point where battery packs don't have to be so huge and heavy

Im still waiting for aluminum-air batteries to be sold like $10 for a KWH pack at the corner store.

(Actually I guess it would need to be a few orders of magnatude cheaper for car use... even for bike use $10/kwh is pricy)

what?

they are one time use.

recharging an aluminum air battery = you throw it back into the aluminum smelter and pour a new one.

Its convenient when you can instantly recharge shit and your 1KWH battery is smaller then a can of pop

I see it as a great option for range extension

Pretty sure it is actually.

at least, best conceivable we have proven to work, not spontaniously explode/need to be kept at 400c, etc.

there is *crazy* amounts of energy in aluminum->aluminum oxide transission

*shrugs*

Silver-air batteries already do it.

only problem is the cost on those is crazy.

did you know the power company has been charging you for the same electrons since you moved in?

just shares em between you and your neighbors -_-

they have fancy ass electrons that get to travel and see the world over the HV lines, but they never share those üò¢

üôÇ yea. (For others who are wondering what im talking about, electrons don't pass through transformers primary to secondary, so your basically just stuck using the same electrons over and over on your side of the transformer)

Yep

electrons don't even really get to see the world üòõ

they are stuck going back and forth along the same 36km of wire or so üòõ

Funky.

https://i.redd.it/18z7ygcy6ei51.jpg Fail

TIL if you have cable disc breaks and your cable is too long, it will eventually find its way into the rotor and try to kill you. Trim cables

ouch.

Yikes hope the dudes ok

Remember, never tow a 600cc with a 250cc.

Battery wasn‚Äôt sparking when plugging in Anderson... could just be the BMS shutting it off as protection... so be me and just use a cheap Chinese battery instead to see if it‚Äôs the battery‚Äôs fault.

Cell instantly explodes

Good BMS right there

lol shorted controller or something?

I‚Äôm scared to try it again üò¶