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I'll start this channel off with an incident that happened to me last year - I melted my phase wire connectors!
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I was using a Phaserunner motor controller set to 30A battery / 96A phase, and though I'm not sure when exactly it happened (or if it was cumulative), after a few months of riding I found that my Anderson Powerpole phase wire connectors had melted and mostly fused together. I ended up having to cut them off to remove my rear wheel from the bike.
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After talking to Grin, I found out that they only recommend Powerpole connectors for use at up to 70 phase amps, and only when exposed to airflow. The 96 peak phase amps that I ran through them was too much. Lesson learned - know the limits of your chosen connectors, and don't exceed those limits.
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Wow those powerpoles are not happy lol
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Not at all. lol
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also I bet 96A phase is some yummy levels of torque
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On that fast-wind DD hub motor (MX3005RC), it was decent, but not enough to wheelie or throw you off the bike or anything.
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On a mid-drive with low gearing, you could probably flip the bike with that, though. lol
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lol
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To put an actual number to it, because I just remembered that I had that setup's sim profile bookmarked, it was putting out somewhere in the 80-85Nm range, or about 50lb thrust in my 29er wheels.
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beefy
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Definitely not bad, but I'll take more low-end torque where I can get it, especially with how heavy my setup is.
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Well, I'll take more low-end torque on the rear wheel... the front wheel is already close enough to wheelspin for my liking, and is actually detuned a bit to avoid that. üòõ
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hehe
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you knowww you wanna try the patent pending Black moons combo drive.. üòõ
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Id build one but it would involve will to pedal and money, two things I lack.
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lol
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Do sprains count or only breaks? üòä
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lol break it
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Oh wow, I would have likely not thought about that style of strap either, just kinda assume it was fabric or something.
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That strap held up better than I'd have thought from just looking at the damage to the nickel strips.
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Nice
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well now you know in an emergency you can use your watch to jumpstart a car, just toss it across the starter solenoid.
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Lol
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Remember folks: check your seat posts and grease them if they are aluminum seatposts in a steel frame
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They can be... very... very difficult to remove otherwise :p
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That pic gives me stress lol
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Yes. It required nearly 2KG of sodium hydroxide to dissolve the seat post.
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that was after attempting to pry the seatpost out and only managing to ruin a seat and a slide hammer..
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and much drilling still didn't loosen it...
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got the sleeve out.. but turns out it was jammed into the downtube where the downtube necks down in size -_-
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(pics where taken a few years back but thought id share em with the new channel)
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Wow, that's pretty nuts.
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Was the frame still usable after all that?
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Yep!
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Sodium hydroxide quickly dissolves aluminum but doesnt really touch steel
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How expensive is naoh
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cheap
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I think it was like $20 for 2kg
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bought as dry pellets @ethan_stark
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https://www.amazon.ca/Hydroxyde-sodium-Qualit%C3%A9-alimentaire-Pound/dp/B06W57NL8S oh I guess its $18 per 1lb. but whatever.
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Guess I only used a pound
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https://www.amazon.ca/CITRIC-ACID-Made-Canada-preservative/dp/B075831WD8 I also think my life could be more sour.
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Buy it with some aluminum foil and BAM you're on a watch list. lol
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I bought it to remove an aluminum seatpost so whatever.
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Yeah that’s what I was thinking about @PineappleExpress make some fun air with it
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Gotta use it to make the fun air inside sealed containers. Then you get the real fun.
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Great now I'm on the list.
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Lol
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Now I understand why I was having intermittent problems with my accessories, the solder only held onto the wire
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New joint vs old
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Ok now where is the heatshrink? üòõ
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And yea, any time you see solder form like, a mushroom cap (undercut at the bottom) its too cold or didn't flow properly
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@Black Moons i pulled it over after the picture, there were no power to those leads üòâ
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ah k just making sure you didn't forget it before putting other connectors on üôÇ
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üëç
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pulled the gear shift cable out of pandoras cable sheath tonight, its like threading a needle but the thread is made up of a bunch of frayed stuborn little wires that hold their shape but in the wrong shape
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lol yeaaa I recommend just buying a new cable :0
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iv rarely ever managed to feed one through
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if you DO wanna feed it through, solder the tip of the cable first
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otherwise its almost guarenteed to uncoil inside the sheath
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A little super glue also works, if you don't have solder.
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Solder is likely a much more permanent fix though.
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solder is probably easier for me
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oh, superglue sounds good, solder is hard to stick to cables too.. gotta solvent off the oil and use a fair bit of flux
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I've always use a bit of electrical tape
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granted, the wires I am using are much larger
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Electric tape could work
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Might not have quit enough clearance. The hole is the same size as cable
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How's your spoke tension
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always even and not overly tight, second time I've broken a spoke
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get thicker spokes or don't hit curbs hard
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you have to upgrade your rims and hub to get thicker spokes unless you have some growing space
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Iv heard some of those chinese spokes are shit too
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that too
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iv seen a bike in the LBS with like, 12ga spokes, 6 of them snapped
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LBS was replacing them with 14ga (thinner) spokes, had done like 10 so far, not one of the replacements snapped.
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(yes it had snapped 16 spokes total)
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(multiple trips to the LBS)
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(huge hub motor, naturally)
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I'm running Sapim spokes, those work very well!
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And yes there is a big difference in spokes
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My wife's original rear wheel was basically snapping spokes left and right, that was an unpowered wheel. Swapped it for a different one I had, no problems with that one.
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@cnrd I'm going to buy some of the sapim single butted spokes soon the 13-14g
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my notes for new wheel build so far
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https://docs.google.com/document/d/1MZpjXI3A3qSD6aKy1l77qQ0o0w6x4Me71KdfypYWa9A/edit?usp=sharing
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Yup those are the ones the guy who build my wheel uese
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link should work now
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It's so painful seeing people replace broken spokes with even thicker 12g
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On bicycle rims
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12 gauge probably
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yes
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Why's that @district9prawn
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Rarely seems to end well for a regular bicycle rim
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probably because they dont make sure the tensions are the same
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thicker spokes will flex less, so if they use their hand to judge tension it'll be less tension than it should
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Yup
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personally i find tension balancing to be the worst part of working on ur wheels
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mostly because you cant objectively measure tension
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tension gauges rely on objective measures of known material and shape
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