qid int64 1 74.7M | question stringlengths 12 33.8k | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list | response_j stringlengths 0 115k | response_k stringlengths 2 98.3k |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
120,039 | I did enable speech recognition just in case, but very rarely use it, and I did not remember even accidentally activating it since bootup. Now I simply have a few apps running under Mavericks, and I noticed my fan spinning, so checked Activity Monitor and see that com.apple.SpeechRecognitionCore.speechrecognitiond takes up 986.1 MB of RAM.
What could this be?
I do use Chrome Canary, and I installed the Voice Search beta extension, but I don't think it is active now, and I haven't noticed the memory issue before.
By the way, Safari Web Content takes up another 738 MB, even though only a single tab of Gmail is open. What is this about, or how can I troubleshoot it? | 2014/02/05 | [
"https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/120039",
"https://apple.stackexchange.com",
"https://apple.stackexchange.com/users/34698/"
] | You can kill this process (in terminal or activity monitor), and it seems as long as the Dictation & Speech pref pane (Yosemite) has dictation and enhanced dictation off and the pref pane is not open, it won't re-spawn.
See for ref:
<http://www.mcelhearn.com/os-x-10-9-mavericks-enhanced-dictation-is-a-memory-hog-and-doesnt-work-very-well/>
<https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5824504> | I've found that the speech recognition services do not load by default. The first time you hit the hotkey (which on my machine is hitting `Fn` twice), it loads the ~1GB of service into RAM.
Unless you've unwittingly hit the hot key or activated some software that wants to use voice recognition, it shouldn't be loaded. That being said, if you don't want to use speech recognition, you could check the box to disable enhanced recognition and only consume ~18MB of RAM. The non-enhanced recognition action is that it samples your voice and sends it to Apple's servers (obviously creating limits and non-realtime feedback). The enhanced flag just loads those libraries on your Mac locally and avoids going to Apple's servers. |
120,039 | I did enable speech recognition just in case, but very rarely use it, and I did not remember even accidentally activating it since bootup. Now I simply have a few apps running under Mavericks, and I noticed my fan spinning, so checked Activity Monitor and see that com.apple.SpeechRecognitionCore.speechrecognitiond takes up 986.1 MB of RAM.
What could this be?
I do use Chrome Canary, and I installed the Voice Search beta extension, but I don't think it is active now, and I haven't noticed the memory issue before.
By the way, Safari Web Content takes up another 738 MB, even though only a single tab of Gmail is open. What is this about, or how can I troubleshoot it? | 2014/02/05 | [
"https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/120039",
"https://apple.stackexchange.com",
"https://apple.stackexchange.com/users/34698/"
] | You can kill this process (in terminal or activity monitor), and it seems as long as the Dictation & Speech pref pane (Yosemite) has dictation and enhanced dictation off and the pref pane is not open, it won't re-spawn.
See for ref:
<http://www.mcelhearn.com/os-x-10-9-mavericks-enhanced-dictation-is-a-memory-hog-and-doesnt-work-very-well/>
<https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5824504> | I had to "force quit" it two or three times before I finally got rid of it. I thought 16 GB was a lot of memory, but was surprised to see how many processes are running even when I only have two apps running. |
14,858 | I have a couple of RVP 50 rolls I would like to experiment with -
The idea is to set up a tripod and use a Canon 5D MK2 in ISO 50 mode
for composition focusing and exposure metering, then replace the
5D with an EOS300 and capture the photo with it.
The question is how does one translate the exposure time between the DSLR
and the film - it is known or at least believed that ISO in DSLRs does not map
particularly well to film ASA rating, then there is the whole 12%-15%-18%
gray metering for zone 5 confusion so if anyone has experience with this particular film and this particular camera (the 5D MK2 used for metering) I`d love to hear what ended up
working for you | 2011/08/12 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/14858",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/6302/"
] | [DxO Mark](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Cameras/Camera-Sensor-Database/Canon/EOS-5D-Mark-II) measured the 5d mk2 ISO 50 as ISO 73, which is almost 1/2 stop off the actual. So, assuming the camera otherwise meters correctly, you can adjust your film camera to the settings on the 5d and the compensate for the half stop slower "film" speed on the sensor by faster shutter speed or using a smaller aperture.
In terms of gray metering, I don't think digital has particularly changed versus film, so I don't think I would especially worry about it. | Why don't you use a dedicated light meter or even a phone application that does just that? It would be quite a bit less complicated then switching back and forth between the 5D and EOS300.
Exposure is exposure, you might have to account for a slight difference due to your film type, but other than that DSLR as compared to film photography is the same. |
1,304,141 | Can i know who all the users have executed which command on a machine? | 2009/08/20 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/1304141",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/-1/"
] | On a Unix-type machine, you would have to enable process accounting. The kernel would then write a record for each process that terminates indicating which command was executed, by whom, when, and how long it took to a file. You could then analyze the file.
The Linux [HOWTO](http://tldp.org/HOWTO/Process-Accounting/) was updated in 2001 - it is likely to apply still, but you will need to check. | In Microsoft world that would be audit (entries in the security event log).
<http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc751315.aspx>
See the Process Tracking section. |
269,564 | >
> The only thing that could change my father's prediction is if Natasha ran away with me.
>
>
>
What does if mean in this sentence? Would it be correct if I used “whether” or “that” instead of “if” here? | 2020/12/21 | [
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/questions/269564",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/users/-1/"
] | You likely know how the definite article works in comparison to the indefinite article. If there is only one of something we use the definite article.
With this question of *belief*, the choice of article really reflects what the person asking the question knows, believes, or assumes about the person they are posing the question to. There are many different beliefs about an afterlife, but if a person believes one then they likely discount the others.
So, if someone asked "do you believe in **the** afterlife?" that would imply that the person asking the question either believes there is only one, or is only aware of one that can be believed in.
If someone asked "do you believe in **an** afterlife?" that would imply that the person asking the question is aware that there is more than one possible belief about an afterlife. | Both are correct.
Absence of the article "the" indicates that you are not talking about any particular afterlife.
Presence of the article "the" indicates that you are talking about a particular afterlife that you have already mentioned previously.
For example:
(*starting conversation*) Hello, do you believe in an afterlife? -- You have never defined an afterlife yet, hence no article.
(*or*) The Bible talks about life after death where good guys go to heaven and bad ones go to hell. Do you believe in **the** afterlife? -- This suggests that you are talking about about this particular afterlife, not some totally different (for example Viking) afterlife.
It is worth noting that article "the" relates to "this". In a way, when you say "the object" you are saying "this object (that I have mentioned before)". Also, "a" / "an" relates to "any", thus saying "an object" means "any object (pick one to your liking)". |
2,932,831 | Just became an iPhone developer. I'm completely new to this, and not really sure whether I should start learning SDK version 3.2 or 4.0. I found tons of videos and tutorials for 3.2, not a lot for 4.0.
So shall I start with 3.2 and then worry about 4.0 later? or am I going to have to re-learn many things that I will learn in 3.2?
Your input is much appreciated. :) | 2010/05/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/2932831",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/150358/"
] | You will not have to learn very many new things. The base SDK is very much the same, and nearly every method is backwards compatible. The basic design patterns of iPhone app architecture have not changed and thus, you can start learning on 3.1.3 or 3.2 and catch up whenever you have access to 4.0 (now if you are in the paid developer program). | What's your time frame? The vast majority of content will not change at all - if you're interested, there's absolutely no reason to not start now.
Further, even if the API that you're working on changes, understanding how they used to do things, and why they changed is a valuable bit of knowledge (you can download the iPhone 4.0 SDK now in beta, and manually compare if you'd like).
Finally, Apple is notorious about delaying release of final documentation - I would definitely not take a dependency on when they ship it to start learning. |
2,932,831 | Just became an iPhone developer. I'm completely new to this, and not really sure whether I should start learning SDK version 3.2 or 4.0. I found tons of videos and tutorials for 3.2, not a lot for 4.0.
So shall I start with 3.2 and then worry about 4.0 later? or am I going to have to re-learn many things that I will learn in 3.2?
Your input is much appreciated. :) | 2010/05/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/2932831",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/150358/"
] | What's your time frame? The vast majority of content will not change at all - if you're interested, there's absolutely no reason to not start now.
Further, even if the API that you're working on changes, understanding how they used to do things, and why they changed is a valuable bit of knowledge (you can download the iPhone 4.0 SDK now in beta, and manually compare if you'd like).
Finally, Apple is notorious about delaying release of final documentation - I would definitely not take a dependency on when they ship it to start learning. | The only thing to be aware of is that 3.2 has some iPad specific things, most of it will apply to iPhone OS 4.0. |
2,932,831 | Just became an iPhone developer. I'm completely new to this, and not really sure whether I should start learning SDK version 3.2 or 4.0. I found tons of videos and tutorials for 3.2, not a lot for 4.0.
So shall I start with 3.2 and then worry about 4.0 later? or am I going to have to re-learn many things that I will learn in 3.2?
Your input is much appreciated. :) | 2010/05/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/2932831",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/150358/"
] | What's your time frame? The vast majority of content will not change at all - if you're interested, there's absolutely no reason to not start now.
Further, even if the API that you're working on changes, understanding how they used to do things, and why they changed is a valuable bit of knowledge (you can download the iPhone 4.0 SDK now in beta, and manually compare if you'd like).
Finally, Apple is notorious about delaying release of final documentation - I would definitely not take a dependency on when they ship it to start learning. | I think that you should start by now. Understating basics as design patterns, architectural commons and styles of programming for iPhone. I think this is better if you acquire some practice now with little APIs to learn that latter.
APPLE has a very strong emphasis on making SDKs solid and very extensible since the beginning and not doing radical changes over the time (Open/Close Principle).
I encourage you learn, not only iPhone SDK or CocoaTouch, but to acquire a deep understanding of Objective C. |
2,932,831 | Just became an iPhone developer. I'm completely new to this, and not really sure whether I should start learning SDK version 3.2 or 4.0. I found tons of videos and tutorials for 3.2, not a lot for 4.0.
So shall I start with 3.2 and then worry about 4.0 later? or am I going to have to re-learn many things that I will learn in 3.2?
Your input is much appreciated. :) | 2010/05/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/2932831",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/150358/"
] | You will not have to learn very many new things. The base SDK is very much the same, and nearly every method is backwards compatible. The basic design patterns of iPhone app architecture have not changed and thus, you can start learning on 3.1.3 or 3.2 and catch up whenever you have access to 4.0 (now if you are in the paid developer program). | The only thing to be aware of is that 3.2 has some iPad specific things, most of it will apply to iPhone OS 4.0. |
2,932,831 | Just became an iPhone developer. I'm completely new to this, and not really sure whether I should start learning SDK version 3.2 or 4.0. I found tons of videos and tutorials for 3.2, not a lot for 4.0.
So shall I start with 3.2 and then worry about 4.0 later? or am I going to have to re-learn many things that I will learn in 3.2?
Your input is much appreciated. :) | 2010/05/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/2932831",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/150358/"
] | You will not have to learn very many new things. The base SDK is very much the same, and nearly every method is backwards compatible. The basic design patterns of iPhone app architecture have not changed and thus, you can start learning on 3.1.3 or 3.2 and catch up whenever you have access to 4.0 (now if you are in the paid developer program). | I think that you should start by now. Understating basics as design patterns, architectural commons and styles of programming for iPhone. I think this is better if you acquire some practice now with little APIs to learn that latter.
APPLE has a very strong emphasis on making SDKs solid and very extensible since the beginning and not doing radical changes over the time (Open/Close Principle).
I encourage you learn, not only iPhone SDK or CocoaTouch, but to acquire a deep understanding of Objective C. |
8,869 | Will they get to suffer in hell? I am trying to find out more about their fate..I know that if you get angry a lot you get reborn ugly..But what happens to people who cheat on you??Will they get cheated on in a future life?Or will a worser fate await them..? I vaguely heard Ajahn Brahm talk about the Nirayas and he did mention a hell where adulterers go to.Is this true..
Is there really a special kind of hell for adulterers..if yes what happens to them there?
Thank you | 2015/04/29 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/8869",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/3551/"
] | I could find lying, stealing and coveting which is close to cheating. Illicit sex can also be considered, if it's with another person's spouse.
From the [Maha Kammavibhanga Sutta](http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/mn/mn.136.than.html):
>
> The Blessed One said, "Ānanda, there are four kinds of person to be
> found in the world. Which four? There is the case where a certain
> person is one who takes life, **takes what is not given (steals)**,
> engages in **illicit sex**, **lies**, speaks divisively, speaks abusively,
> engages in idle chatter; is **covetous**, malevolent, & holds wrong view.
> With the breakup of the body, after death, he reappears in a plane of
> deprivation, a bad destination, a lower realm, hell.
>
>
> | The person that cheats **maliciously** not only creates the long-term bad karma but also **loses the opportunity to learn and develop skills**--as in cheating on a midterm and failing the proctered final.
This applies analogically to all situations, even non-malicious cheating.
Playing by Rules of Reality, a.k.a. Hard Work, is not just a virtue: there is often the reward of becoming more free from ignorance, hatred, and delusion--a main objective of Buddhism. |
8,869 | Will they get to suffer in hell? I am trying to find out more about their fate..I know that if you get angry a lot you get reborn ugly..But what happens to people who cheat on you??Will they get cheated on in a future life?Or will a worser fate await them..? I vaguely heard Ajahn Brahm talk about the Nirayas and he did mention a hell where adulterers go to.Is this true..
Is there really a special kind of hell for adulterers..if yes what happens to them there?
Thank you | 2015/04/29 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/8869",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/3551/"
] | I think it is really important to point out a couple of things. First, according to Buddhism, the results of kamma are said to be complex; one does ***not*** simply experience a 1 to 1 result as, at least on the face of it, the above quotation of Newton's third law seems to imply. The [Lonaphala Sutta](http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/an/an03/an03.099.than.html), e.g., explains that whether or not one has developed her mind will have a very big impact on how the result of some unwholesome kamma will be experienced and that the belief that one must experience the result in equal proportion to the volitional deed is wrong view. For one who holds such a view, 'there is no living the holy life'.
Second, a kamma is not always productive of a specific rebirth, it can be the case that it produces its result within that 'life's continuance', meaning that it simply causes negative effects in this life. So, one committing sexual misconduct might only result in the 'trivial' result of 'rivalry and hatred' in this life. (Pa Auk Sayadaw, The Workings of Kamma)
Again, the way kamma actually produces results in an individual case is quite complex; in the [Acintita Sutta](http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/an/an04/an04.077.than.html) the precise results of an kamma are said to be 'unconjecturable' and conjecturing about them to lead to 'madness and vexation.' If one reads the text cited above, The Workings of Kamma, one might get a sense for why this is said. According to that text and in line with the orthodox Theravadan view as I understand it, there are many kinds of kamma, wholesome and unwholesome, weighty and non-weighty, inferior and superior, there are frustrating kammas (which oppose kammas of the opposite kind, i.e., wholesome or unwholesome), there interceptive kammas, there are numerous mental factors that may make a kamma more or less unwholesome and so on.
Therefore, at last, it is not possible to give a straightforward answer as to what will happen to people who cheat on others in a relationship. We can be sure, however, that if mental states of greed, hatred, and ignorance were active, Buddhism holds the kamma was unwholesome. | The person that cheats **maliciously** not only creates the long-term bad karma but also **loses the opportunity to learn and develop skills**--as in cheating on a midterm and failing the proctered final.
This applies analogically to all situations, even non-malicious cheating.
Playing by Rules of Reality, a.k.a. Hard Work, is not just a virtue: there is often the reward of becoming more free from ignorance, hatred, and delusion--a main objective of Buddhism. |
8,869 | Will they get to suffer in hell? I am trying to find out more about their fate..I know that if you get angry a lot you get reborn ugly..But what happens to people who cheat on you??Will they get cheated on in a future life?Or will a worser fate await them..? I vaguely heard Ajahn Brahm talk about the Nirayas and he did mention a hell where adulterers go to.Is this true..
Is there really a special kind of hell for adulterers..if yes what happens to them there?
Thank you | 2015/04/29 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/8869",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/3551/"
] | I could find lying, stealing and coveting which is close to cheating. Illicit sex can also be considered, if it's with another person's spouse.
From the [Maha Kammavibhanga Sutta](http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/mn/mn.136.than.html):
>
> The Blessed One said, "Ānanda, there are four kinds of person to be
> found in the world. Which four? There is the case where a certain
> person is one who takes life, **takes what is not given (steals)**,
> engages in **illicit sex**, **lies**, speaks divisively, speaks abusively,
> engages in idle chatter; is **covetous**, malevolent, & holds wrong view.
> With the breakup of the body, after death, he reappears in a plane of
> deprivation, a bad destination, a lower realm, hell.
>
>
> | I believe Niraya (hell) can found both inside and outside of our bodies, our minds.Let me explain a little bit details,I quote Newton's third law for this explanation.
**Newton's third law**
>
> When one body exerts a force on a second body, the second body
> simultaneously exerts a force equal in magnitude and opposite in
> direction on the first body.
>
>
>
**Cheating case scenario**
1. You cheat someone intentionally.
2. You know that is cheating and cause someone gets trouble.
3. First your feel guilty yourself for this cheating. This is inside Niraya.
When you enter inside Niraya, you never satisfied yourself.You ever blame yourself and the others.You never happy in your life.You do something for someone, you get the same result likes the person you put into trouble.It is very similar likes Newton's law.
4. Second many Buddhists believe, the sinners will go real Niraya when they die.That is outside Niraya.The Buddhists believe Niraya is the worst place of the universe.You can roughly read so many types of Nirayas in [here](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naraka_%28Buddhism%29).
For adulterers, I believe they must face similar destiny as cheaters. |
8,869 | Will they get to suffer in hell? I am trying to find out more about their fate..I know that if you get angry a lot you get reborn ugly..But what happens to people who cheat on you??Will they get cheated on in a future life?Or will a worser fate await them..? I vaguely heard Ajahn Brahm talk about the Nirayas and he did mention a hell where adulterers go to.Is this true..
Is there really a special kind of hell for adulterers..if yes what happens to them there?
Thank you | 2015/04/29 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/8869",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/3551/"
] | I believe Niraya (hell) can found both inside and outside of our bodies, our minds.Let me explain a little bit details,I quote Newton's third law for this explanation.
**Newton's third law**
>
> When one body exerts a force on a second body, the second body
> simultaneously exerts a force equal in magnitude and opposite in
> direction on the first body.
>
>
>
**Cheating case scenario**
1. You cheat someone intentionally.
2. You know that is cheating and cause someone gets trouble.
3. First your feel guilty yourself for this cheating. This is inside Niraya.
When you enter inside Niraya, you never satisfied yourself.You ever blame yourself and the others.You never happy in your life.You do something for someone, you get the same result likes the person you put into trouble.It is very similar likes Newton's law.
4. Second many Buddhists believe, the sinners will go real Niraya when they die.That is outside Niraya.The Buddhists believe Niraya is the worst place of the universe.You can roughly read so many types of Nirayas in [here](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naraka_%28Buddhism%29).
For adulterers, I believe they must face similar destiny as cheaters. | Nobody Knows, is the answer to all of this !!
Forgiveness and compassion nullify negative effects of bad choices.
All karma can be overcome with genuine remorse and forgiveness. |
8,869 | Will they get to suffer in hell? I am trying to find out more about their fate..I know that if you get angry a lot you get reborn ugly..But what happens to people who cheat on you??Will they get cheated on in a future life?Or will a worser fate await them..? I vaguely heard Ajahn Brahm talk about the Nirayas and he did mention a hell where adulterers go to.Is this true..
Is there really a special kind of hell for adulterers..if yes what happens to them there?
Thank you | 2015/04/29 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/8869",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/3551/"
] | Being cheated on in return should be the last thing to worry about according to the SN suttas. In SN 3.9, Ven. Bodhi's note provided the background story to the huge animal sacrifice set up for king Pasenadi of Kosala:
>
> ..In brief: The king had become infatuated with a married woman and planned to have her husband killed so that he could take his wife. One night, unable to sleep, he heard eerie cries of inexplicable origin. The next day, when he anxiously asked his brahmin chaplain to explain the meaning, the priest told him that the voices portended his imminent death, which he could avert only by performing a great sacrifice. When the king later inquired from the Buddha about the voices, the Buddha told him these were the cries of adulterers boiling in a cauldron in the great hell.
>
>
>
In SN 19.11, Ven. Moggallana during his alms round in the city of Rajagaha reported seeing a man with head submerged in a pit of dung. The Buddha then explained the reason:
>
> ..That being, bhikkhus, used to be an adulterer in this same Rajagaha. Having been tormented in hell for many years, for many hundreds of years, for many thousands of years, for many hundreds of thousands of years as a result of that kamma, as a residual result of that same kamma he is experiencing such a form of individual existence.
>
>
> | **The results for cheating and adulterating are**
* Having to go trough a Transsexual phase (Shemale)
* Being born in hell
* Even many lives after not being able to live a happy married life
* Even many lives after the partner losing interest in this person
* Being born with a mutation in the gender defining area
* Being born among animals who kill other males to have dominance over
the females (Example -Monkeys)
* Being born with a character that does not fit the gender (Men who act
like women,Crossdressing) |
8,869 | Will they get to suffer in hell? I am trying to find out more about their fate..I know that if you get angry a lot you get reborn ugly..But what happens to people who cheat on you??Will they get cheated on in a future life?Or will a worser fate await them..? I vaguely heard Ajahn Brahm talk about the Nirayas and he did mention a hell where adulterers go to.Is this true..
Is there really a special kind of hell for adulterers..if yes what happens to them there?
Thank you | 2015/04/29 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/8869",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/3551/"
] | Being cheated on in return should be the last thing to worry about according to the SN suttas. In SN 3.9, Ven. Bodhi's note provided the background story to the huge animal sacrifice set up for king Pasenadi of Kosala:
>
> ..In brief: The king had become infatuated with a married woman and planned to have her husband killed so that he could take his wife. One night, unable to sleep, he heard eerie cries of inexplicable origin. The next day, when he anxiously asked his brahmin chaplain to explain the meaning, the priest told him that the voices portended his imminent death, which he could avert only by performing a great sacrifice. When the king later inquired from the Buddha about the voices, the Buddha told him these were the cries of adulterers boiling in a cauldron in the great hell.
>
>
>
In SN 19.11, Ven. Moggallana during his alms round in the city of Rajagaha reported seeing a man with head submerged in a pit of dung. The Buddha then explained the reason:
>
> ..That being, bhikkhus, used to be an adulterer in this same Rajagaha. Having been tormented in hell for many years, for many hundreds of years, for many thousands of years, for many hundreds of thousands of years as a result of that kamma, as a residual result of that same kamma he is experiencing such a form of individual existence.
>
>
> | The person that cheats **maliciously** not only creates the long-term bad karma but also **loses the opportunity to learn and develop skills**--as in cheating on a midterm and failing the proctered final.
This applies analogically to all situations, even non-malicious cheating.
Playing by Rules of Reality, a.k.a. Hard Work, is not just a virtue: there is often the reward of becoming more free from ignorance, hatred, and delusion--a main objective of Buddhism. |
8,869 | Will they get to suffer in hell? I am trying to find out more about their fate..I know that if you get angry a lot you get reborn ugly..But what happens to people who cheat on you??Will they get cheated on in a future life?Or will a worser fate await them..? I vaguely heard Ajahn Brahm talk about the Nirayas and he did mention a hell where adulterers go to.Is this true..
Is there really a special kind of hell for adulterers..if yes what happens to them there?
Thank you | 2015/04/29 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/8869",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/3551/"
] | I think it is really important to point out a couple of things. First, according to Buddhism, the results of kamma are said to be complex; one does ***not*** simply experience a 1 to 1 result as, at least on the face of it, the above quotation of Newton's third law seems to imply. The [Lonaphala Sutta](http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/an/an03/an03.099.than.html), e.g., explains that whether or not one has developed her mind will have a very big impact on how the result of some unwholesome kamma will be experienced and that the belief that one must experience the result in equal proportion to the volitional deed is wrong view. For one who holds such a view, 'there is no living the holy life'.
Second, a kamma is not always productive of a specific rebirth, it can be the case that it produces its result within that 'life's continuance', meaning that it simply causes negative effects in this life. So, one committing sexual misconduct might only result in the 'trivial' result of 'rivalry and hatred' in this life. (Pa Auk Sayadaw, The Workings of Kamma)
Again, the way kamma actually produces results in an individual case is quite complex; in the [Acintita Sutta](http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/an/an04/an04.077.than.html) the precise results of an kamma are said to be 'unconjecturable' and conjecturing about them to lead to 'madness and vexation.' If one reads the text cited above, The Workings of Kamma, one might get a sense for why this is said. According to that text and in line with the orthodox Theravadan view as I understand it, there are many kinds of kamma, wholesome and unwholesome, weighty and non-weighty, inferior and superior, there are frustrating kammas (which oppose kammas of the opposite kind, i.e., wholesome or unwholesome), there interceptive kammas, there are numerous mental factors that may make a kamma more or less unwholesome and so on.
Therefore, at last, it is not possible to give a straightforward answer as to what will happen to people who cheat on others in a relationship. We can be sure, however, that if mental states of greed, hatred, and ignorance were active, Buddhism holds the kamma was unwholesome. | I could find lying, stealing and coveting which is close to cheating. Illicit sex can also be considered, if it's with another person's spouse.
From the [Maha Kammavibhanga Sutta](http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/mn/mn.136.than.html):
>
> The Blessed One said, "Ānanda, there are four kinds of person to be
> found in the world. Which four? There is the case where a certain
> person is one who takes life, **takes what is not given (steals)**,
> engages in **illicit sex**, **lies**, speaks divisively, speaks abusively,
> engages in idle chatter; is **covetous**, malevolent, & holds wrong view.
> With the breakup of the body, after death, he reappears in a plane of
> deprivation, a bad destination, a lower realm, hell.
>
>
> |
8,869 | Will they get to suffer in hell? I am trying to find out more about their fate..I know that if you get angry a lot you get reborn ugly..But what happens to people who cheat on you??Will they get cheated on in a future life?Or will a worser fate await them..? I vaguely heard Ajahn Brahm talk about the Nirayas and he did mention a hell where adulterers go to.Is this true..
Is there really a special kind of hell for adulterers..if yes what happens to them there?
Thank you | 2015/04/29 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/8869",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/3551/"
] | I could find lying, stealing and coveting which is close to cheating. Illicit sex can also be considered, if it's with another person's spouse.
From the [Maha Kammavibhanga Sutta](http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/mn/mn.136.than.html):
>
> The Blessed One said, "Ānanda, there are four kinds of person to be
> found in the world. Which four? There is the case where a certain
> person is one who takes life, **takes what is not given (steals)**,
> engages in **illicit sex**, **lies**, speaks divisively, speaks abusively,
> engages in idle chatter; is **covetous**, malevolent, & holds wrong view.
> With the breakup of the body, after death, he reappears in a plane of
> deprivation, a bad destination, a lower realm, hell.
>
>
> | **The results for cheating and adulterating are**
* Having to go trough a Transsexual phase (Shemale)
* Being born in hell
* Even many lives after not being able to live a happy married life
* Even many lives after the partner losing interest in this person
* Being born with a mutation in the gender defining area
* Being born among animals who kill other males to have dominance over
the females (Example -Monkeys)
* Being born with a character that does not fit the gender (Men who act
like women,Crossdressing) |
8,869 | Will they get to suffer in hell? I am trying to find out more about their fate..I know that if you get angry a lot you get reborn ugly..But what happens to people who cheat on you??Will they get cheated on in a future life?Or will a worser fate await them..? I vaguely heard Ajahn Brahm talk about the Nirayas and he did mention a hell where adulterers go to.Is this true..
Is there really a special kind of hell for adulterers..if yes what happens to them there?
Thank you | 2015/04/29 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/8869",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/3551/"
] | Being cheated on in return should be the last thing to worry about according to the SN suttas. In SN 3.9, Ven. Bodhi's note provided the background story to the huge animal sacrifice set up for king Pasenadi of Kosala:
>
> ..In brief: The king had become infatuated with a married woman and planned to have her husband killed so that he could take his wife. One night, unable to sleep, he heard eerie cries of inexplicable origin. The next day, when he anxiously asked his brahmin chaplain to explain the meaning, the priest told him that the voices portended his imminent death, which he could avert only by performing a great sacrifice. When the king later inquired from the Buddha about the voices, the Buddha told him these were the cries of adulterers boiling in a cauldron in the great hell.
>
>
>
In SN 19.11, Ven. Moggallana during his alms round in the city of Rajagaha reported seeing a man with head submerged in a pit of dung. The Buddha then explained the reason:
>
> ..That being, bhikkhus, used to be an adulterer in this same Rajagaha. Having been tormented in hell for many years, for many hundreds of years, for many thousands of years, for many hundreds of thousands of years as a result of that kamma, as a residual result of that same kamma he is experiencing such a form of individual existence.
>
>
> | I could find lying, stealing and coveting which is close to cheating. Illicit sex can also be considered, if it's with another person's spouse.
From the [Maha Kammavibhanga Sutta](http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/mn/mn.136.than.html):
>
> The Blessed One said, "Ānanda, there are four kinds of person to be
> found in the world. Which four? There is the case where a certain
> person is one who takes life, **takes what is not given (steals)**,
> engages in **illicit sex**, **lies**, speaks divisively, speaks abusively,
> engages in idle chatter; is **covetous**, malevolent, & holds wrong view.
> With the breakup of the body, after death, he reappears in a plane of
> deprivation, a bad destination, a lower realm, hell.
>
>
> |
8,869 | Will they get to suffer in hell? I am trying to find out more about their fate..I know that if you get angry a lot you get reborn ugly..But what happens to people who cheat on you??Will they get cheated on in a future life?Or will a worser fate await them..? I vaguely heard Ajahn Brahm talk about the Nirayas and he did mention a hell where adulterers go to.Is this true..
Is there really a special kind of hell for adulterers..if yes what happens to them there?
Thank you | 2015/04/29 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/8869",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/3551/"
] | I think it is really important to point out a couple of things. First, according to Buddhism, the results of kamma are said to be complex; one does ***not*** simply experience a 1 to 1 result as, at least on the face of it, the above quotation of Newton's third law seems to imply. The [Lonaphala Sutta](http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/an/an03/an03.099.than.html), e.g., explains that whether or not one has developed her mind will have a very big impact on how the result of some unwholesome kamma will be experienced and that the belief that one must experience the result in equal proportion to the volitional deed is wrong view. For one who holds such a view, 'there is no living the holy life'.
Second, a kamma is not always productive of a specific rebirth, it can be the case that it produces its result within that 'life's continuance', meaning that it simply causes negative effects in this life. So, one committing sexual misconduct might only result in the 'trivial' result of 'rivalry and hatred' in this life. (Pa Auk Sayadaw, The Workings of Kamma)
Again, the way kamma actually produces results in an individual case is quite complex; in the [Acintita Sutta](http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/an/an04/an04.077.than.html) the precise results of an kamma are said to be 'unconjecturable' and conjecturing about them to lead to 'madness and vexation.' If one reads the text cited above, The Workings of Kamma, one might get a sense for why this is said. According to that text and in line with the orthodox Theravadan view as I understand it, there are many kinds of kamma, wholesome and unwholesome, weighty and non-weighty, inferior and superior, there are frustrating kammas (which oppose kammas of the opposite kind, i.e., wholesome or unwholesome), there interceptive kammas, there are numerous mental factors that may make a kamma more or less unwholesome and so on.
Therefore, at last, it is not possible to give a straightforward answer as to what will happen to people who cheat on others in a relationship. We can be sure, however, that if mental states of greed, hatred, and ignorance were active, Buddhism holds the kamma was unwholesome. | I believe Niraya (hell) can found both inside and outside of our bodies, our minds.Let me explain a little bit details,I quote Newton's third law for this explanation.
**Newton's third law**
>
> When one body exerts a force on a second body, the second body
> simultaneously exerts a force equal in magnitude and opposite in
> direction on the first body.
>
>
>
**Cheating case scenario**
1. You cheat someone intentionally.
2. You know that is cheating and cause someone gets trouble.
3. First your feel guilty yourself for this cheating. This is inside Niraya.
When you enter inside Niraya, you never satisfied yourself.You ever blame yourself and the others.You never happy in your life.You do something for someone, you get the same result likes the person you put into trouble.It is very similar likes Newton's law.
4. Second many Buddhists believe, the sinners will go real Niraya when they die.That is outside Niraya.The Buddhists believe Niraya is the worst place of the universe.You can roughly read so many types of Nirayas in [here](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naraka_%28Buddhism%29).
For adulterers, I believe they must face similar destiny as cheaters. |
42,576 | Nowdays most of us agree discrimination on the basis of race, gender, etc is a bad thing. Some philosophers have put forward the concept of speciesm, ie discrimination the basis of species. So following the example, cant we say that universities discriminate on the basis of talent or knowledge? Or employers discriminate on the same basis when giving a job? | 2017/05/22 | [
"https://philosophy.stackexchange.com/questions/42576",
"https://philosophy.stackexchange.com",
"https://philosophy.stackexchange.com/users/26712/"
] | Civil society is founded on two notions of justice: absolute justice and proportional justice, a la Aristotle. Absolute justice applies to all members of society for the reason that they meet certain qualification. For instance, any human objects are guaranteed with basic rights for the reason of being human. Proportional justice is founded on the idea of deservingness: those who work hard or are efficient users of their talents should be rewarded more than talent wasters or unincentivized people.
Historically, people have disagreed on the domains of absolute and proportional justice. The right to vote for representatives, for instance, used to belong to the domain of proportional justice (19th century). Many now think the right to a democratic say (voting right) belongs to the domain of absolute justice. The marriage right of same sex people is only recently viewed as the basic right: previously same sex marriage was viewed as an inefficient use of talents (no offspring).
Naturally, the delineation between basic and non-basic rights is circumstantial, cultural, sociological, political. Now, to answer your question, most present societies view matters relating to knowledge and talent belong to the realm of proportional justice. Thus when universities and businesses treat individuals preferentially based on talent and knowledge, they are not viewed as discriminating people on these bases. | The movement towards the disapproval of discrimination is not equivalent to the elimination of differentiation. The distinction between treating everyone fairly and treating everyone the same is an important one to recognize. The key take away from the change you are describing, is the elimination of bias (or the elimination of devaluing "the other"). Issues of a polemic and orthodox application of egalitarian distribution are apparent in strict institutionalized socialism or Communism. As John Locke and Thomas Hobbs describe, society is formed on the basis of a tacit agreement between individual to create security for the individual and create opportunity through collective efforts and mutual exchange. Oppositely, Marx describes a socialist society, where these roles are reversed - Individuals serve the needs of the community united by a collective struggle.
One of the largest issues with the socialist perspective is that we are not all equivalent, with the same needs, motives, or abilities. It neglects the human intuitions of being individuals first and members of a community second. Historically, the strict application of communism - though rarely expressed in a true adherence to its own values - has resulted in a stifled society. I refer to the collapse of the USSR as a result of rationing and social issues stemming from limitation on individuality. Another example is the collapse of many kibbutzim - the local level socialist communities of Israel. These groups' struggle to maintain a commitment to equality for all, has resulted in greatly diminished participation. Conversely, the competitive nature of the free market and individualism has resulted in higher incentives and greater rewards for both individuals and society.
Intrinsically, scarcity requires differentiation because it cannot provide enough to satisfy everyone. Up until society reaches a point of unlimited abundance - where the maximum of each individual's needs are met by the sheer volume of resources, a healthy understanding of differentiation is important. However, it is equally important to show respect and preserve each individual's dignity by not devaluing them based on differences. Instead, it is important to provide fair opportunity until then. |
48,026 | Bought a frame for a new build having trouble finding out maker.
The serial number is Snacb14e01933 located underneath bottom bracket.
Any info would be appreciated
 | 2017/07/17 | [
"https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/48026",
"https://bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33811/"
] | Looks like a lower-end, Department Store-quality BMX bike of indeterminate age and brand. It's probably been repainted, doesn't have a head badge or any stickers, I just don't see any way to identify it at all. I know it's a low end one because of the stamped kickstand mounting plate, any nicer bike wouldn't have that. I would go ahead and build it anyways if you like the frame, and ride it well. | Its a cheap Wlmart or Fred Myer bike. The kickstand mount is flat and welded to the frame poorly. My guess is a low range Huffy with a middle upperclass fork, all painted terribly. |
48,026 | Bought a frame for a new build having trouble finding out maker.
The serial number is Snacb14e01933 located underneath bottom bracket.
Any info would be appreciated
 | 2017/07/17 | [
"https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/48026",
"https://bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33811/"
] | Looks like a lower-end, Department Store-quality BMX bike of indeterminate age and brand. It's probably been repainted, doesn't have a head badge or any stickers, I just don't see any way to identify it at all. I know it's a low end one because of the stamped kickstand mounting plate, any nicer bike wouldn't have that. I would go ahead and build it anyways if you like the frame, and ride it well. | The serial number format is the Pacific Cycle group of brand names.
Mongoose is the most likely brand of BMX from Pacific Cycle. |
123,684 | I emailed a professor asking him to be my master's supervisor. He replied saying he is willing to meet me and asked me to send him my transcript. I have sent it and he has not replied yet after a week (he replied to my initial email a day after). I don’t have great grades so does this mean that he's not interested anymore? | 2019/01/24 | [
"https://academia.stackexchange.com/questions/123684",
"https://academia.stackexchange.com",
"https://academia.stackexchange.com/users/103485/"
] | **You question whether you satisfy the requirements for a position as a PhD student**. The minimum requirement for such a position is a bachelor's degree, albeit, many positions will require a master's. You satisfy both of those requirements, so your move from software development to academia is entirely plausible.
**You seem to believe that publications are required for a PhD student position**. They are not, at least, not at many institutes. They are nonetheless useful, even "just a couple," even if "[they're] rather weak," since they demonstrate an ability to do research and an understanding of the research process.
**You are concerned that your referees are engineers, rather than scientists**. This isn't a problem, actually it is an asset, as is your software engineering background. *Impact* is a measure of success in academia and your real-world experience can guide you towards practical research problems that have more potential for impact. | You can go back as a PhD student and @user2768 has given a good answer to that. I just want to point out a different path.
Many research projects require software development. If you want to do research and not specifically computer science / engineering research, you could join a research group as their software developer. If you wanted to make a career out of it, you would probably need to get a PhD, but it may be that the research group would be able to help with that. In addition, it would allow you to see whether research is what you want to do while still being gainfully employed (albeit at a lower payscale than what you would get in commercial software development). |
76,924 | Apologies for the rambling thoughts and questions (new to the towing scene) . I'll summarize my questions:
1) Is the Home Depot rental trailer 3ft x 5ft compatible with 2001 Toyota Tacoma tow ball?
2) Is the tow ball considered a "bumper" tow ball, or considered attached to the frame (see pics below)?
3) Does the structural integrity of my truck look okay for towing?
4) Does this look like the standard factory installation of the bumper/frame, or was this a "custom" weld job?
5) Is it required for me to install a hitch receiver for this trailer? If not, what are some reasons for choosing to do so anyway?
Longer rambling version: I have never actually used a tow ball or a hitch, even though I have a tow ball on my 2001 Toyota Tacoma. I want to rent a small lawn and garden trailer 3ft x 5ft from Home Depot:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y4uPC.png)
I just wanted to make sure that it's compatible and the truck is in good enough shape to do so. The specs for the trailer are a 2 inch coupler at 2000 lbs, which matches the specs written on my tow ball. The towing capacity of this truck is 3500 to 5000 lbs (not sure why there is a range specified instead of just a maximum...).
So when I called Home Depot and described my setup, they said that they wouldn't allow "bumper style" tow balls because they can't guarantee that the bumper is installed properly. But then they said if the tow ball is attached to part of the frame, it should be good. I'm not sure how to distinguish the difference so I took some pictures (I had removed the tow ball):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZimLj.jpg)
So it looks like the tow ball goes into a steel (?) plate that is a thicker/different material than the bumper itself. This steel plate ultimately is welded into the main frame:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0YXW.jpg)
I'm not 100% sure if this is the way the truck was built in the factory or if someone did some custom rebuilding (I purchased the truck used). I'm also not sure if the "dirty" look on everything means that the structure is compromised, or if this is normal.
The next thing I noticed when googling around is that you can get a hitch receiver kit for this truck:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uWYok.png)
It's unclear to me why you'd want to install a receiver hitch when you already have a tow ball. One thing I can think of is that the hitch receiver/ball will sit a little bit closer to the ground. Not sure if that's a desirable thing or a required thing or what. | 2020/05/17 | [
"https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/76924",
"https://mechanics.stackexchange.com",
"https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/57575/"
] | 1. As long as the ball and the hitch are the same size, fit should not be a problem. The
Home Depot hitches are designed to fit with most balls.
2. A tow ball is considered a bumper hitch. For frame hitches, please reference here for
images:
<https://www.homedepot.com/b/Automotive-Towing-Equipment/Trailer-Hitch/N->
5yc1vZc8n0Z1z18yir
These frames mount to your vehicle frame and then you install the ball.
Any trailer I've hauled on a ball, had two chains; one on either side. Both chains are hooked at one end to the trailer and then the other end is securely connected to your vehicle on either side of the ball. It is a security measure which did not prevent a trailer I once towed, to pass me by on the highway.
I can't help but wonder if Home Depot wishes to sell you a hitch instead of just the ball...
3. >
> Toyota Tacoma Towing Capacity
> The base Tacoma and SR5 trims can tow 3,500 pounds, but when properly equipped with a towing package, they can tow up to 6,400 pounds. The 3.5-liter V6 and available tow package help this popular pickup truck tow up to 6,800 pounds or carry a payload of up to 1,440 pounds.Oct 2, 2019
> For further information on your particular vehicle, Toyota provides more information here: <https://www.ferneliustoyota.net/2020-toyota-tacoma-towing-capacity/>
>
>
>
4. I do not see any sign of weld on your bumper. It looks a bit rusty, but okay, nothing
I wouldn't expect to see on an '01.
5. Installing a hitch receiver is not required here (as in where I live). If you are
concerned, check with your local Department of Transport for what is legal there. I am
in total agreement with Paulster2 on the hitch receiver. I did like the double
receiver though as it allowed for towing as well as mount for bicycles etc. That was
the only advantage I saw.
If, as you say 'I'm new to the towing scene,' please, for safety sake (your own and others), ensure that you familiarize yourself with, and practice, cornering and most especially backing up before you take yourself out on the road.
Happy towing :)
[!I just saw this on your truck. This is where one chain goes and there should be another just like it on the opposite side.[1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1Zix.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1Zix.png) | That big rusty steel plate that is below your chrome bumper is a modification. Someone wanted a stronger point to mount the hitch ball (stronger than the factory hole in the bumper, which is visible in your last picture) and welded 'er up. The "clean" way to do this would have been to install an approved hitch receiver (as also illustrated in your last picture).
Technically, it appears that the homemade hitch ball plate *is indeed "attached to the frame"* of the truck; however, it would be difficult to estimate or attest to the strength/capacity of it. Personally, I would have zero apprehension if towing a trailer that small. The question is whether or not the rental entity will allow it... |
7,648 | I'm looking for a normal prime lens, desirably fast and not too expensive, for my 450D. 50mm seems to be the normal focal length on FF, thus for APS-C, I need about 30mm.
I want it to be fast as I'm going to use it at night for available light photography. The most interesting candidates so far are:
* Canon 28mm f/1.8
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4
I've read a lot of stuff about both lenses and ended up confused. From my current understanding, the Canon's AF is faster than the Sigma's (the AF should be fast and reliable for street photography - however, I can't tell how big this difference is in practice. Maybe you can help me?) Also, I will be able to keep the Canon when I switch to full-frame. The only thing about the Sigma that keeps teasing me is the f/1.4. How much of a difference is there really between f/1.4 and f/1.8 (what exactly will the difference in shutter speed be)?
Today I got to try out the Canon in a photography store. I'm not experienced with testing and judging lenses though, so my judgement is mostly subjective. The unsharpness in the corners that everybody seems to mention was noticeable, but did not disturb me much (might also be because of the APS-C sensor). What bothered me far more were the purple fringes around bright objects (I tested it at f/1.8). Wikipedia says you can avoid those with a strong UV filter - is that true and does the usage of such a filter have any disadvantages?
Last but not least, if there are any other lenses you'd suggest or factors I missed out, *please tell me!*
Thanks in advance for your advice :)
PS: I already have the Canon 60mm f/2.8 Macro and am very content with it for portraits. It is, however, way too long for an always-on lens and the 2.8 is clearly too slow for shooting at night.
PPS: Thanks for your answers! Obviously, f/1.4 does indeed make a significant difference. What bothers me the most about the Sigma is that I can't use it on an full-frame camera, which I will definitely buy sooner or later. It is said that you can sell lenses very close to the new price. However, I've read that the Sigma wears out very quickly. Someone else in the same thread replied this was because of the use of suncream. *This happens when you read to much. Aargh!*
PPPS: I bought the Sigma yesterday. From what I can tell after one and a half day of usage, it works pretty good. The AF needs a little adjustment, but that turned out to be no problem as I currently stay in Singapore where I can just visit the Sigma office personally and wait while they adjust the lens. I'll do that tomorrow and tell you if it made a big difference.
PPPPS: The lens was adjusted a couple of weeks ago so I've had some time to work with it. I have to say, the AF weaknesses *are* noticeable. However, one has to admit, the focus is required to be much more accurate on a 1.4 aperture. Also, it is an entirely new experience for me to work with such a fast lens so I also had to get used to it.
When I used the lens as an always-on for a few days and then switched to my Canon 60mm/2.8, the focus speed seemed incredibly fast. Hence, my conclusion: The lens can be great, if you know how to work with it. | 2011/01/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7648",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/2069/"
] | Throwing my hat in to the debate I'd say get the Sigma. By all accounts it's a great lens for the price. In fact I'm planning to get one myself!
**The Sigma is a more modern lens designed for your sensor size**. You can therefore expect it to be a bit sharper - crop sensors usually have higher pixel densities whereas the Canon 28 f/1.8 was also released in 1995, before manufacturers started optimising lenses for digital. It also means the hood is optimized and is just the right diameter (the Canon hood (which costs extra) is designed for FF so will let in stray light which is very bad for street photography as you're frequently shooting into streetlights etc.)
If and when you go FF you can sell it (it's a popular lens so you'll have no problems shifting it). You can reduce the loss by buying used now, treat the lens well and you may be able to sell it for what you paid.
**You can also use the Sigma on FF!**. Yes that's right it's an EF mount (unlike your EF-s 60mm macro) so it will go on a FF camera. You will just have dark corners, which you can either use for effect (might not be all that noticeable if your shots are dark anyway) or crop out!
You never know by the time you upgrade you light have got a promotion, won the lottery or become a pro street photographer. In the meantime it pays to be using the right lens right now.
Oh and definitely try one out.... you'll things that are never in the reviews, for example I find I don't really like the plastic finish Sigma use on their lenses! | I haven't used either of the two lenses you mentioned, so I won't comment on those
However you also asked about alternatives: [Lens Hero](http://lenshero.com/lenses/35mm-f2.0-prime-for-canon-ef) has comprehensive a list of fast wide primes for canon ef/ef-s. |
7,648 | I'm looking for a normal prime lens, desirably fast and not too expensive, for my 450D. 50mm seems to be the normal focal length on FF, thus for APS-C, I need about 30mm.
I want it to be fast as I'm going to use it at night for available light photography. The most interesting candidates so far are:
* Canon 28mm f/1.8
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4
I've read a lot of stuff about both lenses and ended up confused. From my current understanding, the Canon's AF is faster than the Sigma's (the AF should be fast and reliable for street photography - however, I can't tell how big this difference is in practice. Maybe you can help me?) Also, I will be able to keep the Canon when I switch to full-frame. The only thing about the Sigma that keeps teasing me is the f/1.4. How much of a difference is there really between f/1.4 and f/1.8 (what exactly will the difference in shutter speed be)?
Today I got to try out the Canon in a photography store. I'm not experienced with testing and judging lenses though, so my judgement is mostly subjective. The unsharpness in the corners that everybody seems to mention was noticeable, but did not disturb me much (might also be because of the APS-C sensor). What bothered me far more were the purple fringes around bright objects (I tested it at f/1.8). Wikipedia says you can avoid those with a strong UV filter - is that true and does the usage of such a filter have any disadvantages?
Last but not least, if there are any other lenses you'd suggest or factors I missed out, *please tell me!*
Thanks in advance for your advice :)
PS: I already have the Canon 60mm f/2.8 Macro and am very content with it for portraits. It is, however, way too long for an always-on lens and the 2.8 is clearly too slow for shooting at night.
PPS: Thanks for your answers! Obviously, f/1.4 does indeed make a significant difference. What bothers me the most about the Sigma is that I can't use it on an full-frame camera, which I will definitely buy sooner or later. It is said that you can sell lenses very close to the new price. However, I've read that the Sigma wears out very quickly. Someone else in the same thread replied this was because of the use of suncream. *This happens when you read to much. Aargh!*
PPPS: I bought the Sigma yesterday. From what I can tell after one and a half day of usage, it works pretty good. The AF needs a little adjustment, but that turned out to be no problem as I currently stay in Singapore where I can just visit the Sigma office personally and wait while they adjust the lens. I'll do that tomorrow and tell you if it made a big difference.
PPPPS: The lens was adjusted a couple of weeks ago so I've had some time to work with it. I have to say, the AF weaknesses *are* noticeable. However, one has to admit, the focus is required to be much more accurate on a 1.4 aperture. Also, it is an entirely new experience for me to work with such a fast lens so I also had to get used to it.
When I used the lens as an always-on for a few days and then switched to my Canon 60mm/2.8, the focus speed seemed incredibly fast. Hence, my conclusion: The lens can be great, if you know how to work with it. | 2011/01/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7648",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/2069/"
] | Throwing my hat in to the debate I'd say get the Sigma. By all accounts it's a great lens for the price. In fact I'm planning to get one myself!
**The Sigma is a more modern lens designed for your sensor size**. You can therefore expect it to be a bit sharper - crop sensors usually have higher pixel densities whereas the Canon 28 f/1.8 was also released in 1995, before manufacturers started optimising lenses for digital. It also means the hood is optimized and is just the right diameter (the Canon hood (which costs extra) is designed for FF so will let in stray light which is very bad for street photography as you're frequently shooting into streetlights etc.)
If and when you go FF you can sell it (it's a popular lens so you'll have no problems shifting it). You can reduce the loss by buying used now, treat the lens well and you may be able to sell it for what you paid.
**You can also use the Sigma on FF!**. Yes that's right it's an EF mount (unlike your EF-s 60mm macro) so it will go on a FF camera. You will just have dark corners, which you can either use for effect (might not be all that noticeable if your shots are dark anyway) or crop out!
You never know by the time you upgrade you light have got a promotion, won the lottery or become a pro street photographer. In the meantime it pays to be using the right lens right now.
Oh and definitely try one out.... you'll things that are never in the reviews, for example I find I don't really like the plastic finish Sigma use on their lenses! | There's quite a bit packed in here, so let me break it out a bit.
1. The 50mm would be a perfectly fine lens to have. "Normal" is somewhat of a relative term, it just depends on what you are wanting to use the lens for really. 50mm is a great portrait lens on a crop sensor.
2. The purple fringes you noticed are called Chromatic Aberrations. There is no cure for them at all, except for paying more for a better lens. The UV filter might do something for film camera, but it's doubtful it would do much if anything for a digital sensor (Digital sensors aren't sensitive in the UV typically, so they won't make much of a difference).
3. There are some negative things associated with a UV filter, typically it will make your images have less contrast, might introduce some unwanted artificts, etc.
4. The difference between a 1.4 and 1.8 is noticable, but I wouldn't make it the focal point of your decision. |
7,648 | I'm looking for a normal prime lens, desirably fast and not too expensive, for my 450D. 50mm seems to be the normal focal length on FF, thus for APS-C, I need about 30mm.
I want it to be fast as I'm going to use it at night for available light photography. The most interesting candidates so far are:
* Canon 28mm f/1.8
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4
I've read a lot of stuff about both lenses and ended up confused. From my current understanding, the Canon's AF is faster than the Sigma's (the AF should be fast and reliable for street photography - however, I can't tell how big this difference is in practice. Maybe you can help me?) Also, I will be able to keep the Canon when I switch to full-frame. The only thing about the Sigma that keeps teasing me is the f/1.4. How much of a difference is there really between f/1.4 and f/1.8 (what exactly will the difference in shutter speed be)?
Today I got to try out the Canon in a photography store. I'm not experienced with testing and judging lenses though, so my judgement is mostly subjective. The unsharpness in the corners that everybody seems to mention was noticeable, but did not disturb me much (might also be because of the APS-C sensor). What bothered me far more were the purple fringes around bright objects (I tested it at f/1.8). Wikipedia says you can avoid those with a strong UV filter - is that true and does the usage of such a filter have any disadvantages?
Last but not least, if there are any other lenses you'd suggest or factors I missed out, *please tell me!*
Thanks in advance for your advice :)
PS: I already have the Canon 60mm f/2.8 Macro and am very content with it for portraits. It is, however, way too long for an always-on lens and the 2.8 is clearly too slow for shooting at night.
PPS: Thanks for your answers! Obviously, f/1.4 does indeed make a significant difference. What bothers me the most about the Sigma is that I can't use it on an full-frame camera, which I will definitely buy sooner or later. It is said that you can sell lenses very close to the new price. However, I've read that the Sigma wears out very quickly. Someone else in the same thread replied this was because of the use of suncream. *This happens when you read to much. Aargh!*
PPPS: I bought the Sigma yesterday. From what I can tell after one and a half day of usage, it works pretty good. The AF needs a little adjustment, but that turned out to be no problem as I currently stay in Singapore where I can just visit the Sigma office personally and wait while they adjust the lens. I'll do that tomorrow and tell you if it made a big difference.
PPPPS: The lens was adjusted a couple of weeks ago so I've had some time to work with it. I have to say, the AF weaknesses *are* noticeable. However, one has to admit, the focus is required to be much more accurate on a 1.4 aperture. Also, it is an entirely new experience for me to work with such a fast lens so I also had to get used to it.
When I used the lens as an always-on for a few days and then switched to my Canon 60mm/2.8, the focus speed seemed incredibly fast. Hence, my conclusion: The lens can be great, if you know how to work with it. | 2011/01/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7648",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/2069/"
] | A few thoughts and links for your perusal:
* Any reviews you're going to read will be subjective but they can be good data points. Here's a [thread on DPreview comparing those two lenses](http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=26840166) as well as the [FredMiranda review page for the Canon](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=22&sort=7&cat=2&page=2).
* You did the right thing by trying out the lens for yourself.
* It seems that the verdict is undecided on whether a UV filter can reduce chromatic aberrations. There is another question on this site about the [downsides to using a UV filter](https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/57/downsides-to-using-a-uv-filter).
* The difference between f/1.4 and f/1.8 is 2/3 of a stop. You asked about how this would affect the shutter speed and this means that assuming all other conditions are the same, the faster glass (f/1.4) would allow for a shutter speed that's 66% faster than the slower glass (f/1.8). | There's quite a bit packed in here, so let me break it out a bit.
1. The 50mm would be a perfectly fine lens to have. "Normal" is somewhat of a relative term, it just depends on what you are wanting to use the lens for really. 50mm is a great portrait lens on a crop sensor.
2. The purple fringes you noticed are called Chromatic Aberrations. There is no cure for them at all, except for paying more for a better lens. The UV filter might do something for film camera, but it's doubtful it would do much if anything for a digital sensor (Digital sensors aren't sensitive in the UV typically, so they won't make much of a difference).
3. There are some negative things associated with a UV filter, typically it will make your images have less contrast, might introduce some unwanted artificts, etc.
4. The difference between a 1.4 and 1.8 is noticable, but I wouldn't make it the focal point of your decision. |
7,648 | I'm looking for a normal prime lens, desirably fast and not too expensive, for my 450D. 50mm seems to be the normal focal length on FF, thus for APS-C, I need about 30mm.
I want it to be fast as I'm going to use it at night for available light photography. The most interesting candidates so far are:
* Canon 28mm f/1.8
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4
I've read a lot of stuff about both lenses and ended up confused. From my current understanding, the Canon's AF is faster than the Sigma's (the AF should be fast and reliable for street photography - however, I can't tell how big this difference is in practice. Maybe you can help me?) Also, I will be able to keep the Canon when I switch to full-frame. The only thing about the Sigma that keeps teasing me is the f/1.4. How much of a difference is there really between f/1.4 and f/1.8 (what exactly will the difference in shutter speed be)?
Today I got to try out the Canon in a photography store. I'm not experienced with testing and judging lenses though, so my judgement is mostly subjective. The unsharpness in the corners that everybody seems to mention was noticeable, but did not disturb me much (might also be because of the APS-C sensor). What bothered me far more were the purple fringes around bright objects (I tested it at f/1.8). Wikipedia says you can avoid those with a strong UV filter - is that true and does the usage of such a filter have any disadvantages?
Last but not least, if there are any other lenses you'd suggest or factors I missed out, *please tell me!*
Thanks in advance for your advice :)
PS: I already have the Canon 60mm f/2.8 Macro and am very content with it for portraits. It is, however, way too long for an always-on lens and the 2.8 is clearly too slow for shooting at night.
PPS: Thanks for your answers! Obviously, f/1.4 does indeed make a significant difference. What bothers me the most about the Sigma is that I can't use it on an full-frame camera, which I will definitely buy sooner or later. It is said that you can sell lenses very close to the new price. However, I've read that the Sigma wears out very quickly. Someone else in the same thread replied this was because of the use of suncream. *This happens when you read to much. Aargh!*
PPPS: I bought the Sigma yesterday. From what I can tell after one and a half day of usage, it works pretty good. The AF needs a little adjustment, but that turned out to be no problem as I currently stay in Singapore where I can just visit the Sigma office personally and wait while they adjust the lens. I'll do that tomorrow and tell you if it made a big difference.
PPPPS: The lens was adjusted a couple of weeks ago so I've had some time to work with it. I have to say, the AF weaknesses *are* noticeable. However, one has to admit, the focus is required to be much more accurate on a 1.4 aperture. Also, it is an entirely new experience for me to work with such a fast lens so I also had to get used to it.
When I used the lens as an always-on for a few days and then switched to my Canon 60mm/2.8, the focus speed seemed incredibly fast. Hence, my conclusion: The lens can be great, if you know how to work with it. | 2011/01/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7648",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/2069/"
] | There's quite a bit packed in here, so let me break it out a bit.
1. The 50mm would be a perfectly fine lens to have. "Normal" is somewhat of a relative term, it just depends on what you are wanting to use the lens for really. 50mm is a great portrait lens on a crop sensor.
2. The purple fringes you noticed are called Chromatic Aberrations. There is no cure for them at all, except for paying more for a better lens. The UV filter might do something for film camera, but it's doubtful it would do much if anything for a digital sensor (Digital sensors aren't sensitive in the UV typically, so they won't make much of a difference).
3. There are some negative things associated with a UV filter, typically it will make your images have less contrast, might introduce some unwanted artificts, etc.
4. The difference between a 1.4 and 1.8 is noticable, but I wouldn't make it the focal point of your decision. | Many image processing programs can deal with chromatic aberrations (of which purple fringing is an example) pretty well. Photoshop, Lightroom, Bibble, to my knowledge - maybe others too.
I used to own the Sigma 30/1.4 and loved it. I'm not going to tell you which to buy but remember that when the lens is wide open, central sharpness is far, far more important than corner sharpness, which is mostly irrelevant as those regions will be completely out of the depth of field. |
7,648 | I'm looking for a normal prime lens, desirably fast and not too expensive, for my 450D. 50mm seems to be the normal focal length on FF, thus for APS-C, I need about 30mm.
I want it to be fast as I'm going to use it at night for available light photography. The most interesting candidates so far are:
* Canon 28mm f/1.8
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4
I've read a lot of stuff about both lenses and ended up confused. From my current understanding, the Canon's AF is faster than the Sigma's (the AF should be fast and reliable for street photography - however, I can't tell how big this difference is in practice. Maybe you can help me?) Also, I will be able to keep the Canon when I switch to full-frame. The only thing about the Sigma that keeps teasing me is the f/1.4. How much of a difference is there really between f/1.4 and f/1.8 (what exactly will the difference in shutter speed be)?
Today I got to try out the Canon in a photography store. I'm not experienced with testing and judging lenses though, so my judgement is mostly subjective. The unsharpness in the corners that everybody seems to mention was noticeable, but did not disturb me much (might also be because of the APS-C sensor). What bothered me far more were the purple fringes around bright objects (I tested it at f/1.8). Wikipedia says you can avoid those with a strong UV filter - is that true and does the usage of such a filter have any disadvantages?
Last but not least, if there are any other lenses you'd suggest or factors I missed out, *please tell me!*
Thanks in advance for your advice :)
PS: I already have the Canon 60mm f/2.8 Macro and am very content with it for portraits. It is, however, way too long for an always-on lens and the 2.8 is clearly too slow for shooting at night.
PPS: Thanks for your answers! Obviously, f/1.4 does indeed make a significant difference. What bothers me the most about the Sigma is that I can't use it on an full-frame camera, which I will definitely buy sooner or later. It is said that you can sell lenses very close to the new price. However, I've read that the Sigma wears out very quickly. Someone else in the same thread replied this was because of the use of suncream. *This happens when you read to much. Aargh!*
PPPS: I bought the Sigma yesterday. From what I can tell after one and a half day of usage, it works pretty good. The AF needs a little adjustment, but that turned out to be no problem as I currently stay in Singapore where I can just visit the Sigma office personally and wait while they adjust the lens. I'll do that tomorrow and tell you if it made a big difference.
PPPPS: The lens was adjusted a couple of weeks ago so I've had some time to work with it. I have to say, the AF weaknesses *are* noticeable. However, one has to admit, the focus is required to be much more accurate on a 1.4 aperture. Also, it is an entirely new experience for me to work with such a fast lens so I also had to get used to it.
When I used the lens as an always-on for a few days and then switched to my Canon 60mm/2.8, the focus speed seemed incredibly fast. Hence, my conclusion: The lens can be great, if you know how to work with it. | 2011/01/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7648",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/2069/"
] | There's quite a bit packed in here, so let me break it out a bit.
1. The 50mm would be a perfectly fine lens to have. "Normal" is somewhat of a relative term, it just depends on what you are wanting to use the lens for really. 50mm is a great portrait lens on a crop sensor.
2. The purple fringes you noticed are called Chromatic Aberrations. There is no cure for them at all, except for paying more for a better lens. The UV filter might do something for film camera, but it's doubtful it would do much if anything for a digital sensor (Digital sensors aren't sensitive in the UV typically, so they won't make much of a difference).
3. There are some negative things associated with a UV filter, typically it will make your images have less contrast, might introduce some unwanted artificts, etc.
4. The difference between a 1.4 and 1.8 is noticable, but I wouldn't make it the focal point of your decision. | The Sigma is a great lens. But, I have found that on my 40D, autofocus is hit or miss in low light. At f/1.4 there's not much room for error, so there are a lot of missed shots.
I have had much better luck manually specifying a focus point. With the extra control dials on the 40D, this is not an issue. But on a 450D, this may be more difficult to do quickly.
I am not sure if the Canon lens wouldn't have the same issues. Maybe it's worth renting each and trying it out yourself. |
7,648 | I'm looking for a normal prime lens, desirably fast and not too expensive, for my 450D. 50mm seems to be the normal focal length on FF, thus for APS-C, I need about 30mm.
I want it to be fast as I'm going to use it at night for available light photography. The most interesting candidates so far are:
* Canon 28mm f/1.8
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4
I've read a lot of stuff about both lenses and ended up confused. From my current understanding, the Canon's AF is faster than the Sigma's (the AF should be fast and reliable for street photography - however, I can't tell how big this difference is in practice. Maybe you can help me?) Also, I will be able to keep the Canon when I switch to full-frame. The only thing about the Sigma that keeps teasing me is the f/1.4. How much of a difference is there really between f/1.4 and f/1.8 (what exactly will the difference in shutter speed be)?
Today I got to try out the Canon in a photography store. I'm not experienced with testing and judging lenses though, so my judgement is mostly subjective. The unsharpness in the corners that everybody seems to mention was noticeable, but did not disturb me much (might also be because of the APS-C sensor). What bothered me far more were the purple fringes around bright objects (I tested it at f/1.8). Wikipedia says you can avoid those with a strong UV filter - is that true and does the usage of such a filter have any disadvantages?
Last but not least, if there are any other lenses you'd suggest or factors I missed out, *please tell me!*
Thanks in advance for your advice :)
PS: I already have the Canon 60mm f/2.8 Macro and am very content with it for portraits. It is, however, way too long for an always-on lens and the 2.8 is clearly too slow for shooting at night.
PPS: Thanks for your answers! Obviously, f/1.4 does indeed make a significant difference. What bothers me the most about the Sigma is that I can't use it on an full-frame camera, which I will definitely buy sooner or later. It is said that you can sell lenses very close to the new price. However, I've read that the Sigma wears out very quickly. Someone else in the same thread replied this was because of the use of suncream. *This happens when you read to much. Aargh!*
PPPS: I bought the Sigma yesterday. From what I can tell after one and a half day of usage, it works pretty good. The AF needs a little adjustment, but that turned out to be no problem as I currently stay in Singapore where I can just visit the Sigma office personally and wait while they adjust the lens. I'll do that tomorrow and tell you if it made a big difference.
PPPPS: The lens was adjusted a couple of weeks ago so I've had some time to work with it. I have to say, the AF weaknesses *are* noticeable. However, one has to admit, the focus is required to be much more accurate on a 1.4 aperture. Also, it is an entirely new experience for me to work with such a fast lens so I also had to get used to it.
When I used the lens as an always-on for a few days and then switched to my Canon 60mm/2.8, the focus speed seemed incredibly fast. Hence, my conclusion: The lens can be great, if you know how to work with it. | 2011/01/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7648",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/2069/"
] | I haven't used either of the two lenses you mentioned, so I won't comment on those
However you also asked about alternatives: [Lens Hero](http://lenshero.com/lenses/35mm-f2.0-prime-for-canon-ef) has comprehensive a list of fast wide primes for canon ef/ef-s. | Many image processing programs can deal with chromatic aberrations (of which purple fringing is an example) pretty well. Photoshop, Lightroom, Bibble, to my knowledge - maybe others too.
I used to own the Sigma 30/1.4 and loved it. I'm not going to tell you which to buy but remember that when the lens is wide open, central sharpness is far, far more important than corner sharpness, which is mostly irrelevant as those regions will be completely out of the depth of field. |
7,648 | I'm looking for a normal prime lens, desirably fast and not too expensive, for my 450D. 50mm seems to be the normal focal length on FF, thus for APS-C, I need about 30mm.
I want it to be fast as I'm going to use it at night for available light photography. The most interesting candidates so far are:
* Canon 28mm f/1.8
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4
I've read a lot of stuff about both lenses and ended up confused. From my current understanding, the Canon's AF is faster than the Sigma's (the AF should be fast and reliable for street photography - however, I can't tell how big this difference is in practice. Maybe you can help me?) Also, I will be able to keep the Canon when I switch to full-frame. The only thing about the Sigma that keeps teasing me is the f/1.4. How much of a difference is there really between f/1.4 and f/1.8 (what exactly will the difference in shutter speed be)?
Today I got to try out the Canon in a photography store. I'm not experienced with testing and judging lenses though, so my judgement is mostly subjective. The unsharpness in the corners that everybody seems to mention was noticeable, but did not disturb me much (might also be because of the APS-C sensor). What bothered me far more were the purple fringes around bright objects (I tested it at f/1.8). Wikipedia says you can avoid those with a strong UV filter - is that true and does the usage of such a filter have any disadvantages?
Last but not least, if there are any other lenses you'd suggest or factors I missed out, *please tell me!*
Thanks in advance for your advice :)
PS: I already have the Canon 60mm f/2.8 Macro and am very content with it for portraits. It is, however, way too long for an always-on lens and the 2.8 is clearly too slow for shooting at night.
PPS: Thanks for your answers! Obviously, f/1.4 does indeed make a significant difference. What bothers me the most about the Sigma is that I can't use it on an full-frame camera, which I will definitely buy sooner or later. It is said that you can sell lenses very close to the new price. However, I've read that the Sigma wears out very quickly. Someone else in the same thread replied this was because of the use of suncream. *This happens when you read to much. Aargh!*
PPPS: I bought the Sigma yesterday. From what I can tell after one and a half day of usage, it works pretty good. The AF needs a little adjustment, but that turned out to be no problem as I currently stay in Singapore where I can just visit the Sigma office personally and wait while they adjust the lens. I'll do that tomorrow and tell you if it made a big difference.
PPPPS: The lens was adjusted a couple of weeks ago so I've had some time to work with it. I have to say, the AF weaknesses *are* noticeable. However, one has to admit, the focus is required to be much more accurate on a 1.4 aperture. Also, it is an entirely new experience for me to work with such a fast lens so I also had to get used to it.
When I used the lens as an always-on for a few days and then switched to my Canon 60mm/2.8, the focus speed seemed incredibly fast. Hence, my conclusion: The lens can be great, if you know how to work with it. | 2011/01/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7648",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/2069/"
] | I haven't used either of the two lenses you mentioned, so I won't comment on those
However you also asked about alternatives: [Lens Hero](http://lenshero.com/lenses/35mm-f2.0-prime-for-canon-ef) has comprehensive a list of fast wide primes for canon ef/ef-s. | Here's a list of the options I've found, with some links to reviews and benchmarks.
The question is pretty specific, but I'm going for a more generic answer here (which I hope myself/others will update as new lenses come out), as I think this is a really common question without a really obvious answer (many options, with lots of trade-offs, I think it's a lot less simple than the 50mm line-up).
### Canon
* Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 USM (1995) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/83/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-28mm-F18-USM/(camera)/619/(cameraname)/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=22) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-28mm-f-1.8-USM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 28mm f/2.8 (1987) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/84/cat/10) | DxO | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=23) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-28mm-f-2.8-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 28mm f/2.8 IS USM (2012) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1496/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-28mm-F28-IS-USM/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=433) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-28mm-f-2.8-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L USM (1998) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/148/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-35mm-F14L-USM/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=24) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-35mm-f-1.4-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 35mm f/2 (1990) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/147/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-35mm-F2/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=25&sort=7&cat=2&page=2) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-35mm-f-2.0-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 35mm f/2 IS USM (2012) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1574/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-35mm-F2-IS-USM/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=438&sort=7&cat=2&page=1) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-35mm-f-2-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM 'Pancake' (2012) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1523/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-40mm-F28-STM/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=434&sort=7&cat=2&page=2) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-40mm-f-2.8-STM-Pancake-Lens-Review.aspx)
### Other (Auto Focus)
* Sigma 28mm f/1.8 EX DG Asph Macro (2005) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/214/cat/30) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Sigma/Sigma-28mm-F18-EX-DG-ASP-Macro-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=127&sort=7&cat=38&page=1) | TDP
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM (2005) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/176/cat/30) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Sigma/30mm-f-1.4-DC-EX-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=320&sort=7&cat=38&page=1) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-30mm-f-1.4-EX-DC-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC HSM "A" (2013) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1589/cat/30) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Sigma/Sigma-30mm-F14-DC-HSM-A-Canon/%28camera%29/619) | FM | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-30mm-f-1.4-DC-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM "A" (2013) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1561/cat/30) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Sigma/Sigma-35mm-F14-DG-HSM-A-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=440&sort=7&cat=38&page=2) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-35mm-f-1.4-EX-DG-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Tokina 35mm f/2.8 AT-X M35 PRO DX (2007) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1153/cat/34) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Tokina/Tokina-AT-X-M35-PRO-DX-AF-35mm-F28-Macro-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=354&sort=7&cat=41&page=1) | TDP
*Sigma's 30mm 'DC' lenses listed above are designed for APS-C, not full-frame*.
### Other (Manual Focus)
* Samyang/Rokinon 35mm f/1.4 (2011) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1576/cat/110) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Samyang/35mm-F1.4-AS-UMC-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | FM | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Samyang-35mm-f-1.4-US-UMC-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Carl Zeiss Distagon T 28mm f/2 ZE (2009) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1146/cat/98) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Carl-Zeiss/Carl-Zeiss-Distagon-T-28mm-f-2-ZE-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=394&sort=7&cat=53&page=1) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Zeiss-28mm-f-2-ZE-Distagon-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Carl Zeiss Distagon T 35mm f/1.4 ZE (2010) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1375/cat/98) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Carl-Zeiss/Zeiss-Carl-Zeiss-Distagon-T-35mm-f14-ZE-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=428&sort=7&cat=53&page=1) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Zeiss-35mm-f-1.4-ZE-Distagon-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Carl Zeiss Distagon T 35mm f/2 ZE (2009) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1145/cat/98) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Carl-Zeiss/Carl-Zeiss-Distagon-2-35mm-ZE-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=391&sort=7&cat=53&page=1) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Zeiss-35mm-f-2-ZE-Distagon-Lens-Review.aspx)
I'm not sure the best way to present all this just yet. It may be useful to briefly mention primary features & failings of each, to differentiate FF-compatible vs APS-C-only, so will consider some edits to add some high level info.
Also note a few are discontinued, which should probably be marked too (2nd hand only now). |
7,648 | I'm looking for a normal prime lens, desirably fast and not too expensive, for my 450D. 50mm seems to be the normal focal length on FF, thus for APS-C, I need about 30mm.
I want it to be fast as I'm going to use it at night for available light photography. The most interesting candidates so far are:
* Canon 28mm f/1.8
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4
I've read a lot of stuff about both lenses and ended up confused. From my current understanding, the Canon's AF is faster than the Sigma's (the AF should be fast and reliable for street photography - however, I can't tell how big this difference is in practice. Maybe you can help me?) Also, I will be able to keep the Canon when I switch to full-frame. The only thing about the Sigma that keeps teasing me is the f/1.4. How much of a difference is there really between f/1.4 and f/1.8 (what exactly will the difference in shutter speed be)?
Today I got to try out the Canon in a photography store. I'm not experienced with testing and judging lenses though, so my judgement is mostly subjective. The unsharpness in the corners that everybody seems to mention was noticeable, but did not disturb me much (might also be because of the APS-C sensor). What bothered me far more were the purple fringes around bright objects (I tested it at f/1.8). Wikipedia says you can avoid those with a strong UV filter - is that true and does the usage of such a filter have any disadvantages?
Last but not least, if there are any other lenses you'd suggest or factors I missed out, *please tell me!*
Thanks in advance for your advice :)
PS: I already have the Canon 60mm f/2.8 Macro and am very content with it for portraits. It is, however, way too long for an always-on lens and the 2.8 is clearly too slow for shooting at night.
PPS: Thanks for your answers! Obviously, f/1.4 does indeed make a significant difference. What bothers me the most about the Sigma is that I can't use it on an full-frame camera, which I will definitely buy sooner or later. It is said that you can sell lenses very close to the new price. However, I've read that the Sigma wears out very quickly. Someone else in the same thread replied this was because of the use of suncream. *This happens when you read to much. Aargh!*
PPPS: I bought the Sigma yesterday. From what I can tell after one and a half day of usage, it works pretty good. The AF needs a little adjustment, but that turned out to be no problem as I currently stay in Singapore where I can just visit the Sigma office personally and wait while they adjust the lens. I'll do that tomorrow and tell you if it made a big difference.
PPPPS: The lens was adjusted a couple of weeks ago so I've had some time to work with it. I have to say, the AF weaknesses *are* noticeable. However, one has to admit, the focus is required to be much more accurate on a 1.4 aperture. Also, it is an entirely new experience for me to work with such a fast lens so I also had to get used to it.
When I used the lens as an always-on for a few days and then switched to my Canon 60mm/2.8, the focus speed seemed incredibly fast. Hence, my conclusion: The lens can be great, if you know how to work with it. | 2011/01/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7648",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/2069/"
] | A few thoughts and links for your perusal:
* Any reviews you're going to read will be subjective but they can be good data points. Here's a [thread on DPreview comparing those two lenses](http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=26840166) as well as the [FredMiranda review page for the Canon](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=22&sort=7&cat=2&page=2).
* You did the right thing by trying out the lens for yourself.
* It seems that the verdict is undecided on whether a UV filter can reduce chromatic aberrations. There is another question on this site about the [downsides to using a UV filter](https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/57/downsides-to-using-a-uv-filter).
* The difference between f/1.4 and f/1.8 is 2/3 of a stop. You asked about how this would affect the shutter speed and this means that assuming all other conditions are the same, the faster glass (f/1.4) would allow for a shutter speed that's 66% faster than the slower glass (f/1.8). | I'd go for the Canon 28mm f/1.8 unless you're willing/able to pay for the [Canon 35mm f/1.4 L](http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup/ef_35mm_f_1_4l_usm). Either of the two you mentioned will probably have a bit of chromatic abberation, which is annoying, but fixable in post (with a slight loss of sharpness). If you're able to step up to the 35 L the fringing will largely go away.
The difference between the 1.8 and 1.4 is 2/3rd's stop, which means that you can cut the shutter speed nearly in half (a full stop mean's double the light), this is a significant difference, but you also have to keep in mind that all lenses tend to be a bit soft wide open, so you might end up at f/2 or so a lot of the time either way.
**Edit:**
If you are planning to switch to a full-frame in the near future, go ahead and get the [50mm f/1.4 USM](http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup/ef_50mm_f_1_4_usm). Optically, it's a great lens, it's "normal" on a FF, and it's comparatively cheap. |
7,648 | I'm looking for a normal prime lens, desirably fast and not too expensive, for my 450D. 50mm seems to be the normal focal length on FF, thus for APS-C, I need about 30mm.
I want it to be fast as I'm going to use it at night for available light photography. The most interesting candidates so far are:
* Canon 28mm f/1.8
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4
I've read a lot of stuff about both lenses and ended up confused. From my current understanding, the Canon's AF is faster than the Sigma's (the AF should be fast and reliable for street photography - however, I can't tell how big this difference is in practice. Maybe you can help me?) Also, I will be able to keep the Canon when I switch to full-frame. The only thing about the Sigma that keeps teasing me is the f/1.4. How much of a difference is there really between f/1.4 and f/1.8 (what exactly will the difference in shutter speed be)?
Today I got to try out the Canon in a photography store. I'm not experienced with testing and judging lenses though, so my judgement is mostly subjective. The unsharpness in the corners that everybody seems to mention was noticeable, but did not disturb me much (might also be because of the APS-C sensor). What bothered me far more were the purple fringes around bright objects (I tested it at f/1.8). Wikipedia says you can avoid those with a strong UV filter - is that true and does the usage of such a filter have any disadvantages?
Last but not least, if there are any other lenses you'd suggest or factors I missed out, *please tell me!*
Thanks in advance for your advice :)
PS: I already have the Canon 60mm f/2.8 Macro and am very content with it for portraits. It is, however, way too long for an always-on lens and the 2.8 is clearly too slow for shooting at night.
PPS: Thanks for your answers! Obviously, f/1.4 does indeed make a significant difference. What bothers me the most about the Sigma is that I can't use it on an full-frame camera, which I will definitely buy sooner or later. It is said that you can sell lenses very close to the new price. However, I've read that the Sigma wears out very quickly. Someone else in the same thread replied this was because of the use of suncream. *This happens when you read to much. Aargh!*
PPPS: I bought the Sigma yesterday. From what I can tell after one and a half day of usage, it works pretty good. The AF needs a little adjustment, but that turned out to be no problem as I currently stay in Singapore where I can just visit the Sigma office personally and wait while they adjust the lens. I'll do that tomorrow and tell you if it made a big difference.
PPPPS: The lens was adjusted a couple of weeks ago so I've had some time to work with it. I have to say, the AF weaknesses *are* noticeable. However, one has to admit, the focus is required to be much more accurate on a 1.4 aperture. Also, it is an entirely new experience for me to work with such a fast lens so I also had to get used to it.
When I used the lens as an always-on for a few days and then switched to my Canon 60mm/2.8, the focus speed seemed incredibly fast. Hence, my conclusion: The lens can be great, if you know how to work with it. | 2011/01/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7648",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/2069/"
] | Many image processing programs can deal with chromatic aberrations (of which purple fringing is an example) pretty well. Photoshop, Lightroom, Bibble, to my knowledge - maybe others too.
I used to own the Sigma 30/1.4 and loved it. I'm not going to tell you which to buy but remember that when the lens is wide open, central sharpness is far, far more important than corner sharpness, which is mostly irrelevant as those regions will be completely out of the depth of field. | Here's a list of the options I've found, with some links to reviews and benchmarks.
The question is pretty specific, but I'm going for a more generic answer here (which I hope myself/others will update as new lenses come out), as I think this is a really common question without a really obvious answer (many options, with lots of trade-offs, I think it's a lot less simple than the 50mm line-up).
### Canon
* Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 USM (1995) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/83/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-28mm-F18-USM/(camera)/619/(cameraname)/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=22) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-28mm-f-1.8-USM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 28mm f/2.8 (1987) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/84/cat/10) | DxO | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=23) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-28mm-f-2.8-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 28mm f/2.8 IS USM (2012) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1496/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-28mm-F28-IS-USM/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=433) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-28mm-f-2.8-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L USM (1998) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/148/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-35mm-F14L-USM/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=24) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-35mm-f-1.4-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 35mm f/2 (1990) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/147/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-35mm-F2/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=25&sort=7&cat=2&page=2) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-35mm-f-2.0-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 35mm f/2 IS USM (2012) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1574/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-35mm-F2-IS-USM/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=438&sort=7&cat=2&page=1) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-35mm-f-2-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM 'Pancake' (2012) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1523/cat/10) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon/Canon-EF-40mm-F28-STM/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=434&sort=7&cat=2&page=2) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-40mm-f-2.8-STM-Pancake-Lens-Review.aspx)
### Other (Auto Focus)
* Sigma 28mm f/1.8 EX DG Asph Macro (2005) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/214/cat/30) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Sigma/Sigma-28mm-F18-EX-DG-ASP-Macro-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=127&sort=7&cat=38&page=1) | TDP
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM (2005) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/176/cat/30) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Sigma/30mm-f-1.4-DC-EX-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=320&sort=7&cat=38&page=1) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-30mm-f-1.4-EX-DC-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC HSM "A" (2013) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1589/cat/30) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Sigma/Sigma-30mm-F14-DC-HSM-A-Canon/%28camera%29/619) | FM | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-30mm-f-1.4-DC-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM "A" (2013) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1561/cat/30) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Sigma/Sigma-35mm-F14-DG-HSM-A-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=440&sort=7&cat=38&page=2) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-35mm-f-1.4-EX-DG-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Tokina 35mm f/2.8 AT-X M35 PRO DX (2007) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1153/cat/34) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Tokina/Tokina-AT-X-M35-PRO-DX-AF-35mm-F28-Macro-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=354&sort=7&cat=41&page=1) | TDP
*Sigma's 30mm 'DC' lenses listed above are designed for APS-C, not full-frame*.
### Other (Manual Focus)
* Samyang/Rokinon 35mm f/1.4 (2011) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1576/cat/110) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Samyang/35mm-F1.4-AS-UMC-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | FM | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Samyang-35mm-f-1.4-US-UMC-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Carl Zeiss Distagon T 28mm f/2 ZE (2009) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1146/cat/98) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Carl-Zeiss/Carl-Zeiss-Distagon-T-28mm-f-2-ZE-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=394&sort=7&cat=53&page=1) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Zeiss-28mm-f-2-ZE-Distagon-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Carl Zeiss Distagon T 35mm f/1.4 ZE (2010) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1375/cat/98) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Carl-Zeiss/Zeiss-Carl-Zeiss-Distagon-T-35mm-f14-ZE-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=428&sort=7&cat=53&page=1) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Zeiss-35mm-f-1.4-ZE-Distagon-Lens-Review.aspx)
* Carl Zeiss Distagon T 35mm f/2 ZE (2009) — [slrgear](http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1145/cat/98) | [DxO](http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Carl-Zeiss/Carl-Zeiss-Distagon-2-35mm-ZE-Canon/%28camera%29/619/%28cameraname%29/Canon-EOS-7D) | [FM](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=391&sort=7&cat=53&page=1) | [TDP](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Zeiss-35mm-f-2-ZE-Distagon-Lens-Review.aspx)
I'm not sure the best way to present all this just yet. It may be useful to briefly mention primary features & failings of each, to differentiate FF-compatible vs APS-C-only, so will consider some edits to add some high level info.
Also note a few are discontinued, which should probably be marked too (2nd hand only now). |
7,648 | I'm looking for a normal prime lens, desirably fast and not too expensive, for my 450D. 50mm seems to be the normal focal length on FF, thus for APS-C, I need about 30mm.
I want it to be fast as I'm going to use it at night for available light photography. The most interesting candidates so far are:
* Canon 28mm f/1.8
* Sigma 30mm f/1.4
I've read a lot of stuff about both lenses and ended up confused. From my current understanding, the Canon's AF is faster than the Sigma's (the AF should be fast and reliable for street photography - however, I can't tell how big this difference is in practice. Maybe you can help me?) Also, I will be able to keep the Canon when I switch to full-frame. The only thing about the Sigma that keeps teasing me is the f/1.4. How much of a difference is there really between f/1.4 and f/1.8 (what exactly will the difference in shutter speed be)?
Today I got to try out the Canon in a photography store. I'm not experienced with testing and judging lenses though, so my judgement is mostly subjective. The unsharpness in the corners that everybody seems to mention was noticeable, but did not disturb me much (might also be because of the APS-C sensor). What bothered me far more were the purple fringes around bright objects (I tested it at f/1.8). Wikipedia says you can avoid those with a strong UV filter - is that true and does the usage of such a filter have any disadvantages?
Last but not least, if there are any other lenses you'd suggest or factors I missed out, *please tell me!*
Thanks in advance for your advice :)
PS: I already have the Canon 60mm f/2.8 Macro and am very content with it for portraits. It is, however, way too long for an always-on lens and the 2.8 is clearly too slow for shooting at night.
PPS: Thanks for your answers! Obviously, f/1.4 does indeed make a significant difference. What bothers me the most about the Sigma is that I can't use it on an full-frame camera, which I will definitely buy sooner or later. It is said that you can sell lenses very close to the new price. However, I've read that the Sigma wears out very quickly. Someone else in the same thread replied this was because of the use of suncream. *This happens when you read to much. Aargh!*
PPPS: I bought the Sigma yesterday. From what I can tell after one and a half day of usage, it works pretty good. The AF needs a little adjustment, but that turned out to be no problem as I currently stay in Singapore where I can just visit the Sigma office personally and wait while they adjust the lens. I'll do that tomorrow and tell you if it made a big difference.
PPPPS: The lens was adjusted a couple of weeks ago so I've had some time to work with it. I have to say, the AF weaknesses *are* noticeable. However, one has to admit, the focus is required to be much more accurate on a 1.4 aperture. Also, it is an entirely new experience for me to work with such a fast lens so I also had to get used to it.
When I used the lens as an always-on for a few days and then switched to my Canon 60mm/2.8, the focus speed seemed incredibly fast. Hence, my conclusion: The lens can be great, if you know how to work with it. | 2011/01/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7648",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/2069/"
] | A few thoughts and links for your perusal:
* Any reviews you're going to read will be subjective but they can be good data points. Here's a [thread on DPreview comparing those two lenses](http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=26840166) as well as the [FredMiranda review page for the Canon](http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=22&sort=7&cat=2&page=2).
* You did the right thing by trying out the lens for yourself.
* It seems that the verdict is undecided on whether a UV filter can reduce chromatic aberrations. There is another question on this site about the [downsides to using a UV filter](https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/57/downsides-to-using-a-uv-filter).
* The difference between f/1.4 and f/1.8 is 2/3 of a stop. You asked about how this would affect the shutter speed and this means that assuming all other conditions are the same, the faster glass (f/1.4) would allow for a shutter speed that's 66% faster than the slower glass (f/1.8). | The Sigma is a great lens. But, I have found that on my 40D, autofocus is hit or miss in low light. At f/1.4 there's not much room for error, so there are a lot of missed shots.
I have had much better luck manually specifying a focus point. With the extra control dials on the 40D, this is not an issue. But on a 450D, this may be more difficult to do quickly.
I am not sure if the Canon lens wouldn't have the same issues. Maybe it's worth renting each and trying it out yourself. |
7,465 | In the 1990s, I attended [Virgil Davis Karate Studio](http://www.daviskarate.com/) in Flatwoods, KY. There was a form that one of the upper-belt students (I don't think he was a black belt yet at the time) did which had a section where he did a double knifehand block in a back stance, then did this odd shuffle where he shifted forward and kicked the thigh of his front leg with the sole of his back leg, then did the same, striking the back leg with the front leg. The impacts were sharp enough to create a slapping sound and took about a second total before returning to the back stance. For some reason, this has stuck with me in the years since I attended and I'm starting to wonder what exactly it was.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EWMym.gif)
I don't remember the form name. I thought that it was one of the [Pyung Ans](http://www.blackbeltwiki.com/tang-soo-do-hyung), but none of them look familiar. At the time, the school was a Chuck Norris *Tang Soo Do* school, but partway through, it was rebranded as *[Chun Kuk Do](https://www.ufaf.org/about-chuck-norris-system.htm)*, so the form might have come from either side. It could have also possibly been one from outside the style (at the upper belts, people often cross-trained, or brought in forms from styles they'd previously trained in).
What exactly is this movement? And what is its purpose? I've sent a query to my former instructor, but I don't know how often he replies to random emails.
*Edit:* After Steve Weigand provided some examples, I think there's a good chance this is [Naihanchi 1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E725D7kZCDo), even though I don't remember that being part of the curriculum and the movement does not match what I remember exactly. | 2017/04/26 | [
"https://martialarts.stackexchange.com/questions/7465",
"https://martialarts.stackexchange.com",
"https://martialarts.stackexchange.com/users/1780/"
] | **TL;DR** - It is meant to represent a sweep of your opponent's leg or a kick behind his knees. With the prior techniques, you trap his arm and upper body, then you take him down with a sweep or a kick.
---
Assuming you are indeed remembering Naihanchi Shodan, you are remembering a form that is likely around 200 years old, if not more. As with many modern forms of Karate, Tang Soo Do is largely composed of many small variations of ancient katas. This is not bad in and of itself, but it does mean that a few of the original bunkai are "lost in translation". In many styles, the Naihanchi series is formed of three katas that are taught when a student is nearing brown belt. This is because these katas mark the transition between a mostly "striking" karate to a mostly "grappling" karate.
Now I'm sure all would agree that karate is not a grappling art, but that's mostly because people tend to imagine stuff like wrestling, judo or BJJ when they think of grappling. A lot of Jujitsu and Aikido techniques solely aim at controlling the hands and the movements of your opponent without necessarily grabbing at their whole body and taking them down. This sort of hand-play is often called "tuidi-waza" (lit: seizing hand technique), or "trapping", in english. As the Naihanchi katas were taught in my school, they were mostly about learning tuidi-waza.
Let's have a look at the [Tang Soo Do version of Naihanchi Shodan](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urc7T2FMRa4). The chosen technique comes towards the end of the sequence (Naihanchi Shodan is basically one sequence repeated twice). It is composed of the following movements :
1. A large sweeping right-handed Uchi Ude Uke
2. A left-handed punch
3. What seems to be a simultaneous Gedan Barai to the right and a second Uchi Ude Uke to the left
4. A left-handed striking Soto Ude Uke
5. And finally, that weird looking stepping motion, followed by a side strike
We did it a bit differently in our school, but the gist of it remains the same. Parts 1 to 4 show different ways of gaining control of your opponent's punching arm and upper body in a way that restricts his movements. Once that is achieved, that leg movement you see is meant to represent a sweep; by controlling your opponent's upper body and by removing one of his feet from the ground, you can unbalance him and throw him down. Depending on how you control your opponent's movement, you could also kick him behind the knees to achieve similar results. This is why the sequence ends with two of these sweeps, to indicate that the technique can be used with any leg and in different ways. Old karate katas are all about obfuscation of techniques, after all.
In [this video, you can see an application of this technique](https://youtu.be/S8HhWmoNEAM?t=1m10s). The prior hand techniques are somewhat different than what you are used to, but they serve the same functions. They are simply variations from one style/school to another.
In the past, I have also seen a few instructors interpret this technique as a defence against a kick/sweep. After your fight with the opponent in front of you, another opponent comes to the side with a kick/sweep to your leg. You dodge this technique and strike (weakly) to his head. While this seems like a plausible explanation, it feels "wrong" in the context of the Naihanchi series. The Naihanchi katas are usually very thorough in dealing with the imaginary opponents. Simply dodging one opponent before starting something completely different on the other side leaves that opponent free to attack you in the back (you merely punched him once). This movement is also the end of the main sequence, meaning that, at least traditionally, your opponent should be dealt with, not simply backing off from a single weak strike. | As a rule of thumb, anytime in a form you touch yourself, it is representative of touching your opponent.
The way you describe, I imagine the front leg crosses beyond the opponent, and thus begins your question: what is the back leg doing as it touches the front?
The answer could be one of several:
1) You are stomping on the inside knee of your opponent to off-balance them; the inference being that you don't have enough distance to kick to strike, but rather, to bend the knee to effect a sweep or off-balancing maneuver.
2) You are touching a pressure point area just above the knee to effect a painful response, mitigating their escape or counter with the inside knee.
3) You are wrapping your leg around your opponent, in order to effect prevention of escape or counter, or otherwise use his leg against you.
4) You are wrapping your leg around your opponent, in order to effect a throw; such a wrap makes it difficult for him to escape easily.
5) As an alternative movement (the Japanese refer to it as henka-waza) another explanation might be where you are avoiding a sweep, and you lift that leg to avoid it.
We see this movement occasionally in ITF but this seems more common in Karate styles. In ITF, we use this method from a horse-stance in Gae-Baek Hyung Yoo-Shin Hyung.
To study a movement, take note of what the hands are doing, what the previous movement was, what the next movement is, and where the eyeline is. These can all provide clues to deciphering what a movement does. You mention 2x knifehand block; that tells me you're not grabbing the opponent - rather, you're tending to push him back or keep him at bay. |
18,685,995 | I have a position where I essentialy write Visual Basic Macros full time to support a number of divisions in the company. I've done quite well, learned quite a bit, and enjoy my position quite a bit.
We're laying out plans for the future, and while I'm quite good at searching for information I need for these projects (and stack overflow has been a great resource in that), I've come up dry on something I've been trying to do for a bit.
Here is the lay of the land. We distribute macros attached to various other programs via a network drive that everyone in the company has access to. These macros also interface with and automate a proprietary system our company uses. As such, when slight alterations to that system are made, we have to make alterations to a large number of macros in order to stay up to date.
As such, what we would like to try to do is to make a DLL of methods for interacting with our proprietary system. We would like to place that DLL on the network drive, and set the reference for all our macros there. Unfortunately, we do not, at least for the moment, have access to visual studio. All we have access to as far as development environments go is Visual Basic 6.5 as it comes packaged with office. We're working on getting more, but any of you that work at a large company know how that goes.
So, I'd like to know if it is possible to create a DLL using the visual basic editor, and if I should expect any issues having dozens of macros potentially accessing it around the same time.
Thanks in advance for any help or advice you may be able to offer. | 2013/09/08 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/18685995",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/2759242/"
] | I assume you are using Office 2007 products. VBA is a scripting language, using which you build your macros. DLLs are compiled assemblies. VBA editor will not allow you to create a DLL.
You could use Visual Basic (not Visual Basic for Applications) to create a DLL and then reference them in your macros.
You can also use .NET to create an [unmanaged export library as mentioned in this post](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/6340041/using-a-c-sharp-dll-inside-excel-vba) and then reference it in your macros. Although not necessary, I'd recommend using Visual Studio to build a DLL.
I'll state the obvious - why not invest in building a .NET application (or Java or something more *enterprisy*) than maintaining macros? You may be able to build a flexible configuration so that when your proprietary system changes, the application intelligently changes its parameters also. This may take time but it will reduce maintenance through macros.
It is possible that you don't have a choice. In that case, I'd recommend splitting out your macros in a way that only one or two have to change instead of many. Reduce dependencies appropriately and all the change-prone macros could be brought into a single location. Again, that may not be feasible. In that case, take all the macros and combine them into web services (you could use open source PHP/Python etc. if Visual Studio/.NET isn't available) and then change your office products to call web services. A post about [calling web services in excel is here](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/474936/call-web-service-in-excel). | Although you can't build a DLL with VBA, you can build an Excel Add-In (.xla) with shared macros and store it on your network drive. |
6,488,836 | 
I tried but the side round shape not shaped properly with [9-patch](http://developer.android.com/guide/developing/tools/draw9patch.html). | 2011/06/27 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/6488836",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/785775/"
] | 9-patch is a simple png image with 1-pixel borders indicating stretchable area. Read [more](http://developer.android.com/guide/developing/tools/draw9patch.htm). | This should solve your purpose. |
74,267 | Whenever I refer to Wikipedia to read about history of early Islam and later caliphates, many articles cite Wilferd Ferdinand Madelung in some controversial statements that he make. I will list below some statements :
**Battle of Camel** :
1. "While there is no record of any violence according to Madelung, they both later broke their oaths, claiming that they had pledged their allegiance to Ali under **public pressure**."
2. "The negotiations failed after three days and the two sides readied for battle. According to Madelung, the popular story about successful negotiations is **pure fiction**. This story alleges that it was Uthman's murderers who sabotaged the negotiations and provoked the battle."
3. "Talha was killed by the Umayyad's Marwan, another notable rebel, who later told Uthman's son that he had taken care of one of the murderers of Uthman for him."
4. "While Talha had indeed led the opposition to Uthman, it has been suggested that Marwan's motive in killing Talha was to rid Muawiya of a serious contender for the caliphate. After the battle, Marwan joined the court of Muawiya in Damascus as a senior advisor."
5. "When the news of Zubayr's death reached Ali, he commented that Zubayr had many times fought valiantly in front of Muhammad but that he had come to an evil end. According to Madelung, the popular story of Ali cursing the killers of Zubayr is **fiction**."
**Batte of Siffin** :
1. "When his proposal was rejected, Muawiya declared war on Ali in a letter on behalf of the Syrians, with the objectives of killing the murderers of Uthman, deposing Ali, and establishing a Syrian council (shura) to appoint the next caliph, presumably Muawiya. Regarding this letter, Madelung observes that : Uthman had meant **little** to him [Muawiya], he [Muawiya] had done nothing to aid him [Uthman], and felt no personal obligation to seek revenge. Yet he [Muawiya] immediately sensed the political utility of a claim of revenge for the blood of the wronged caliph, as long as he, Muawiya, could decide on whom to pin the blame."
2. "Amr, a political strategist, was widely believed to be the **illegitimate** son of Muawiya's father, Abu Sufyan."
3. "Amr was also a prime instigator in the murder of Uthman and had publicly taken some credit for it."
Wikipedia cited him in almost every statement mentioned in the entire article :
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YXuu.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/koFAB.png) | 2022/01/01 | [
"https://islam.stackexchange.com/questions/74267",
"https://islam.stackexchange.com",
"https://islam.stackexchange.com/users/47578/"
] | Assalamu alaikum,
unfortunately, celebrating religious festivals - even if it is for cultural reasons - is not allowed.
: Ibn Umar reported: The Messenger of Allah, peace and blessings be upon him, said, “Whoever imitates a people is one of them.”
Source: Sunan Abī Dāwūd 4031
thus, engaging in the religious festivals of others is not allowed.
However, Allah also says: Allah does not forbid you as regards those who did not fight you on account of faith, and did not expel you from your homes, that you do good to them, and deal justly with them. Surely Allah loves those who maintain justice. (Quran 60:8)
this verse explains that we should still be good to those who have been good to us. thus, do not go on Christmas day, but go the day before or a few days after, give gifts, sit with them, and have a good time - a day before or after is not a celebration of Christmas. | Neither Prophet Muhammad nor Jesus Christ celebrated the birthdays of anyone in either the Sunnah or the New Testament, so what's exactly the wisdom from this innovation?
We know that Jesus [AS] was born in a time period near the summer according to the Qur'an:
19:25
وَهُزِّىٓ إِلَيْكِ بِجِذْعِ ٱلنَّخْلَةِ تُسَـٰقِطْ عَلَيْكِ رُطَبًا جَنِيًّا
>
> *And shake toward you the trunk of the palm tree; it will drop upon you ripe, **fresh dates.***
>
>
>
The dates of 25th Dec. and 7th Jan. have no business with Jesus, he was born in neither of them.
Secondly, there's no record of any Christmas festivals before the 4th century, and the date of 25 December was actually **the birth of the sun god,** an old pagan Roman festival.
The early Christians scholars [before that time] didn't show any remarks or writings that Jesus was born in the winter, at all. And they didn't celebrate the Christmas either. Is this an innovation or not?
Third, the Prophet said:
>
> حَدَّثَنَا عُثْمَانُ بْنُ أَبِي شَيْبَةَ، حَدَّثَنَا أَبُو النَّضْرِ، حَدَّثَنَا عَبْدُ الرَّحْمَنِ بْنُ ثَابِتٍ، حَدَّثَنَا حَسَّانُ بْنُ عَطِيَّةَ، عَنْ أَبِي مُنِيبٍ الْجُرَشِيِّ، عَنِ ابْنِ عُمَرَ، قَالَ قَالَ رَسُولُ اللَّهِ صلى الله عليه وسلم " مَنْ تَشَبَّهَ بِقَوْمٍ فَهُوَ مِنْهُمْ " .
>
>
> The Prophet (ﷺ) said: He who imitates any people is one of them.
>
>
>
And Allah said:
5:51
۞ يَـٰٓأَيُّهَا ٱلَّذِينَ ءَامَنُوا۟ لَا تَتَّخِذُوا۟ ٱلْيَهُودَ وَٱلنَّصَـٰرَىٰٓ أَوْلِيَآءَ ۘ بَعْضُهُمْ أَوْلِيَآءُ بَعْضٍ ۚ وَمَن يَتَوَلَّهُم مِّنكُمْ فَإِنَّهُۥ مِنْهُمْ ۗ إِنَّ ٱللَّهَ لَا يَهْدِى ٱلْقَوْمَ ٱلظَّـٰلِمِينَ
>
> *O you who have believed, do not take the Jews and the Christians as allies. They are [in fact] allies of one another. And whoever is an ally to them among you - **then indeed, he is [one] of them.** Indeed, Allah guides not the wrongdoing people.*
>
>
>
Imitate the Christians, and you will be one of them:
>
> حَدَّثَنَا سَعِيدُ بْنُ أَبِي مَرْيَمَ، حَدَّثَنَا أَبُو غَسَّانَ، قَالَ حَدَّثَنِي زَيْدُ بْنُ أَسْلَمَ، عَنْ عَطَاءِ بْنِ يَسَارٍ، عَنْ أَبِي سَعِيدٍ ـ رضى الله عنه ـ أَنَّ النَّبِيَّ صلى الله عليه وسلم قَالَ " لَتَتَّبِعُنَّ سَنَنَ مَنْ قَبْلَكُمْ شِبْرًا بِشِبْرٍ، وَذِرَاعًا بِذِرَاعٍ، حَتَّى لَوْ سَلَكُوا جُحْرَ ضَبٍّ لَسَلَكْتُمُوهُ ". قُلْنَا يَا رَسُولَ اللَّهِ، الْيَهُودَ وَالنَّصَارَى قَالَ " فَمَنْ ".
>
>
> The Prophet (ﷺ) said, "You will follow the wrong ways, of your predecessors so completely and literally that if they should go into the hole of a mastigure, you too will go there." We said, "O Allah's Messenger (ﷺ)! Do you mean the Jews and the Christians?" He replied, **"Whom else?"**
>
>
>
Personal advice, if you can't convince your family that what they are doing is wrong, then [please] don't join them in this shirk, even Prophet Jesus doesn't like what Christians do and say, so use your wisdom and look what's written in their books:
**Matthew 7**
>
> 21 Not every one that saith unto me, Lord, Lord, shall enter into the kingdom of heaven; but he that doeth the will of my Father which is in heaven.
>
>
> 22 Many will say to me in that day, Lord, Lord, have we not prophesied in thy name? and in thy name have cast out devils? and in thy name done many wonderful works?
>
>
> 23 And then will I profess unto them, **I never knew you: depart from me, ye that work iniquity.**
>
>
>
Don't satisfy anyone, only Allah. |
230,495 | What's the first word that comes to your mind when you see this? Also, please mention if British, US or another variant.
As someone who didn't grow up in an English-speaking country, I really have no idea what to call these, and Wikipedia lists altogether too many names for them. | 2015/02/25 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/230495",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/3566/"
] | A [lifebelt](http://www.thefreedictionary.com/life+belt) is a common way to call it:
>
> * A life preserver worn like a belt.
>
>
>
also:
>
> * A lifebuoy, *ring buoy, lifering, lifesaver, life donut, life preserver or lifebelt*, also known as a "kisby ring" or "perry buoy", is a life saving buoy designed to be thrown to a person in the water, to provide buoyancy and prevent drowning. Some modern lifebuoys are fitted with one or more seawater-activated lights, to aid rescue at night.
>
>
>
*Lifebelt* is more common in BrE while *life preserver* in more common in AmE (see Ngram).
[Ngram](https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?content=lifebelt%2Clifebuoy%2Clife%20preserver&year_start=1800&year_end=2000&corpus=18&smoothing=3&share=&direct_url=t1%3B%2Clifebelt%3B%2Cc0%3B.t1%3B%2Clifebuoy%3B%2Cc0%3B.t1%3B%2Clife%20preserver%3B%2Cc0) BrE [Ngram](https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?content=lifebelt%2Clifebuoy%2Clife%20preserver&year_start=1800&year_end=2000&corpus=17&smoothing=3&share=&direct_url=t1%3B%2Clifebelt%3B%2Cc0%3B.t1%3B%2Clifebuoy%3B%2Cc0%3B.t1%3B%2Clife%20preserver%3B%2Cc0)AmE | It is a bit complicated, and no doubt varies from region to region. In the US, I'd expect it to most often be called a *lifebuoy*, though *life ring* might also be used, as well as *life preserver*.
But *life preserver* is also commonly used to refer to a *life jacket* (see image below) and if you're wearing a life jacket you don't have such an urgent need for a lifebuoy.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vj4OQ.jpg) |
230,495 | What's the first word that comes to your mind when you see this? Also, please mention if British, US or another variant.
As someone who didn't grow up in an English-speaking country, I really have no idea what to call these, and Wikipedia lists altogether too many names for them. | 2015/02/25 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/230495",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/3566/"
] | A [lifebelt](http://www.thefreedictionary.com/life+belt) is a common way to call it:
>
> * A life preserver worn like a belt.
>
>
>
also:
>
> * A lifebuoy, *ring buoy, lifering, lifesaver, life donut, life preserver or lifebelt*, also known as a "kisby ring" or "perry buoy", is a life saving buoy designed to be thrown to a person in the water, to provide buoyancy and prevent drowning. Some modern lifebuoys are fitted with one or more seawater-activated lights, to aid rescue at night.
>
>
>
*Lifebelt* is more common in BrE while *life preserver* in more common in AmE (see Ngram).
[Ngram](https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?content=lifebelt%2Clifebuoy%2Clife%20preserver&year_start=1800&year_end=2000&corpus=18&smoothing=3&share=&direct_url=t1%3B%2Clifebelt%3B%2Cc0%3B.t1%3B%2Clifebuoy%3B%2Cc0%3B.t1%3B%2Clife%20preserver%3B%2Cc0) BrE [Ngram](https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?content=lifebelt%2Clifebuoy%2Clife%20preserver&year_start=1800&year_end=2000&corpus=17&smoothing=3&share=&direct_url=t1%3B%2Clifebelt%3B%2Cc0%3B.t1%3B%2Clifebuoy%3B%2Cc0%3B.t1%3B%2Clife%20preserver%3B%2Cc0)AmE | I nominate [lifesaver](https://www.tfd.com/lifesaver). Not only is this object the precise one described under the fourth definition in the American Heritage Dictionary 5th edition (©2016), but it is commonly enough known that there is a popular brand name of hardcandies named after it, so named because of the thick ring shape. You can see an advertisement for Pep-o-Mint Lifesavers on page 510 of [Life Magazine, Volume 74, Issue 1925](https://books.google.com/books?id=bTFHAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA510&dq=lifesavers+candy&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjJ6MeBwdjfAhU6JDQIHaeQCaA4FBDoAQgyMAI#v=onepage&q&f=false), which was published in 1919:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1B6e.png)
Aside from showing how the shape of the candy resembles its namesake, I doubt a word can be much more colloquial or well known than a century old candy [that remains popular to this day](http://www.life-savers.com/), although these days lifesavers are usually fruit flavored rather than minty. |
175,742 | I'm trying to install a new video doorbell. Found the transformer in the attic, attached to the attic outlet. There are two 2-wire bell wiring runs from the transformer - one to the chime and the other to the front door.
Well, almost. The front door bell is connected to a Romex cable - and somewhere there is a short... so, probably at the connection?
I traced the bell wire though the attic to the front of the house where it disappears into the wall cavity. It's a two-story drop, then exists as a cable.
So, do I have to cut up 2 stories of wall looking for the connection? | 2019/10/04 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/175742",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/107738/"
] | It is not common because of cost but it’s also not uncommon. I agree with Harper if I have a broken bell wire I would use something on the truck to repair the wires. Since it was repaired you may get lucky and be able to use the existing wires as a pull.
I would use a pull string , but you may have some stout fishing line that could work. The trick here is figuring out where the break or short is.
At the chime disconnect the door bell button and verify you have 24v , some transformers have a bridge that converts to dc so you need to know what you are trying to measure unless your meter automatically checks for both. If there is voltage at the chime we know the problem is probably at the splice.
I would use the wires as a pull. I would tie a pull string to the bell wires and pull that direction because the bell wires are smaller and if it will pull small wires following a large cable will work easier than trying to pull the other way.
If the wires are stapled and I now know I will have to open the wall sometimes I will pull to the breaking point and the splice may pull free then I would measure the length go up to that point and open the wall, it may save a lot of repair work if you can fish the new wires down the wall.
Just to clarify the string or fishing line is used to pull new wires from the button to the chime. Pulling the wires out at the button location , hopefully until the string or fishing line arrives at the button location. Standard pull string is rated at over 100 pounds. | No, it is not common. But if it works, it certainly isn't unsafe if done right.
You're real interest is how to get your new video bell working. You said the circuit has a short, but suspect you mean it is open. You should measure 24 volts AC across the two wires at the door. Make sure your volt-meter is set in the AC position. Using the DC position will cause it to read zero and give a false indication of open circuit. If you find 24 VAC, your chore is to figure out how to install the video bell. If you really do have an open (or short), then you have to disassemble your house to an extent that you can repair the problem. Often, there are components that can be removed and you can find the splice (connection) and maybe even the problem. If you don't have a solid carpentry background, it may seem like these components are all one piece or impossible to work on without lots of destruction, but a skilled carpenter / handyman could work magic. |
175,742 | I'm trying to install a new video doorbell. Found the transformer in the attic, attached to the attic outlet. There are two 2-wire bell wiring runs from the transformer - one to the chime and the other to the front door.
Well, almost. The front door bell is connected to a Romex cable - and somewhere there is a short... so, probably at the connection?
I traced the bell wire though the attic to the front of the house where it disappears into the wall cavity. It's a two-story drop, then exists as a cable.
So, do I have to cut up 2 stories of wall looking for the connection? | 2019/10/04 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/175742",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/107738/"
] | It is not common because of cost but it’s also not uncommon. I agree with Harper if I have a broken bell wire I would use something on the truck to repair the wires. Since it was repaired you may get lucky and be able to use the existing wires as a pull.
I would use a pull string , but you may have some stout fishing line that could work. The trick here is figuring out where the break or short is.
At the chime disconnect the door bell button and verify you have 24v , some transformers have a bridge that converts to dc so you need to know what you are trying to measure unless your meter automatically checks for both. If there is voltage at the chime we know the problem is probably at the splice.
I would use the wires as a pull. I would tie a pull string to the bell wires and pull that direction because the bell wires are smaller and if it will pull small wires following a large cable will work easier than trying to pull the other way.
If the wires are stapled and I now know I will have to open the wall sometimes I will pull to the breaking point and the splice may pull free then I would measure the length go up to that point and open the wall, it may save a lot of repair work if you can fish the new wires down the wall.
Just to clarify the string or fishing line is used to pull new wires from the button to the chime. Pulling the wires out at the button location , hopefully until the string or fishing line arrives at the button location. Standard pull string is rated at over 100 pounds. | The alternative to repairing the wire is to use a wireless door-bell. That might get expensive in batteries if you have a video door bell - but it's certainly worth considering. |
1,376 | While doing some work in my bathroom, one thing led to another and paint started peeling. I found that under many layers of paint was some wallpaper so it seemed natural to pull...
I started peeling it off like crazy, in huge pieces before I realized that what was left behind was not so nice: drywall with its paper peeled off.
It looks like part of the drywall's paper has come off, leaving a rough, fuzzy, roughish surface (that's about 1ft2).
**Question: how do I fix this?** I might be able to scrape/sand it down smooth enough to paint...maybe.
Another option is to hang some wallpaper.
I *do not* want to go down to the studs and hang new drywall.
**UPDATE:**
I said I didn't want to go down to the studs...but that's what I ended up doing. It was not as hard as I expected but *did* add a lot of time and cost to the project. I couldn't have done it without YouTube :). | 2010/08/21 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/1376",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/344/"
] | I don't think sanding the surface will produce a surface good enough to paint. It's certainly a lot of effort for uncertain results.
If the underlying surface is very rough it might still show through the wall paper, unless it's very thick (1000 gsm lining paper for example) or you do some sanding.
The best answer might be to continue to peel off the paper and then skim the wall with plaster. Depending on your plastering skills you might want to get a professional in.
The result should be good enough to paint. | If you don't want to go the plaster route (per ChrisF), you could try painting a thick coat or two of primer (which should, in theory, absorb a bit into and stabilize the surface), then sand that a bit before another coat of primer and then paint over it.
If you just try to sand what you've got, you'll never see the end - that's just not going to go smooth no matter how much you sand. You've got to effectively 'glue down' the surface bit. Plaster would definitely work, but I think primer might do OK too. |
1,376 | While doing some work in my bathroom, one thing led to another and paint started peeling. I found that under many layers of paint was some wallpaper so it seemed natural to pull...
I started peeling it off like crazy, in huge pieces before I realized that what was left behind was not so nice: drywall with its paper peeled off.
It looks like part of the drywall's paper has come off, leaving a rough, fuzzy, roughish surface (that's about 1ft2).
**Question: how do I fix this?** I might be able to scrape/sand it down smooth enough to paint...maybe.
Another option is to hang some wallpaper.
I *do not* want to go down to the studs and hang new drywall.
**UPDATE:**
I said I didn't want to go down to the studs...but that's what I ended up doing. It was not as hard as I expected but *did* add a lot of time and cost to the project. I couldn't have done it without YouTube :). | 2010/08/21 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/1376",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/344/"
] | I don't think sanding the surface will produce a surface good enough to paint. It's certainly a lot of effort for uncertain results.
If the underlying surface is very rough it might still show through the wall paper, unless it's very thick (1000 gsm lining paper for example) or you do some sanding.
The best answer might be to continue to peel off the paper and then skim the wall with plaster. Depending on your plastering skills you might want to get a professional in.
The result should be good enough to paint. | Primer/paint will not work. It will be lower than the surrounding surface. It will not "fill in" (I've tried).
Try a skim coat of joint compound over the affected area to get it level. If it doesn't work, you'll have to replace the drywall.
Good luck! |
1,376 | While doing some work in my bathroom, one thing led to another and paint started peeling. I found that under many layers of paint was some wallpaper so it seemed natural to pull...
I started peeling it off like crazy, in huge pieces before I realized that what was left behind was not so nice: drywall with its paper peeled off.
It looks like part of the drywall's paper has come off, leaving a rough, fuzzy, roughish surface (that's about 1ft2).
**Question: how do I fix this?** I might be able to scrape/sand it down smooth enough to paint...maybe.
Another option is to hang some wallpaper.
I *do not* want to go down to the studs and hang new drywall.
**UPDATE:**
I said I didn't want to go down to the studs...but that's what I ended up doing. It was not as hard as I expected but *did* add a lot of time and cost to the project. I couldn't have done it without YouTube :). | 2010/08/21 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/1376",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/344/"
] | I don't think sanding the surface will produce a surface good enough to paint. It's certainly a lot of effort for uncertain results.
If the underlying surface is very rough it might still show through the wall paper, unless it's very thick (1000 gsm lining paper for example) or you do some sanding.
The best answer might be to continue to peel off the paper and then skim the wall with plaster. Depending on your plastering skills you might want to get a professional in.
The result should be good enough to paint. | Short of replacing the drywall, you can do a skim coat as others have suggested. However, **be careful** - if you do too thick of a coat, the paper will absorb too much moisture and will bubble underneath the mud/plaster. You'll then have to sand it down, cut out the bubbled section, and skim again. Trust me, I've done this and dealt with that exact problem. Just use a thin coat, sand it smooth, and if necessary add another coat. You can then texture, prime, and paint. |
1,376 | While doing some work in my bathroom, one thing led to another and paint started peeling. I found that under many layers of paint was some wallpaper so it seemed natural to pull...
I started peeling it off like crazy, in huge pieces before I realized that what was left behind was not so nice: drywall with its paper peeled off.
It looks like part of the drywall's paper has come off, leaving a rough, fuzzy, roughish surface (that's about 1ft2).
**Question: how do I fix this?** I might be able to scrape/sand it down smooth enough to paint...maybe.
Another option is to hang some wallpaper.
I *do not* want to go down to the studs and hang new drywall.
**UPDATE:**
I said I didn't want to go down to the studs...but that's what I ended up doing. It was not as hard as I expected but *did* add a lot of time and cost to the project. I couldn't have done it without YouTube :). | 2010/08/21 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/1376",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/344/"
] | I don't think sanding the surface will produce a surface good enough to paint. It's certainly a lot of effort for uncertain results.
If the underlying surface is very rough it might still show through the wall paper, unless it's very thick (1000 gsm lining paper for example) or you do some sanding.
The best answer might be to continue to peel off the paper and then skim the wall with plaster. Depending on your plastering skills you might want to get a professional in.
The result should be good enough to paint. | In reality the brownish inner layer of drywall paper is very absorbent of water and also comes off in chunks if you try to sand, so never sand or apply water based material over it. If you sand you will still have similar problem of fluffy brown paper to deal with and it will be deeper than surrounding areas. If you apply joint compound, as some have suggested directly over the peeled untreated paper you will get swelling and bubbles all over and have a mess.
The proper repair is as follows:
1. Trim all edges of the affected area with a sharp razor knife to clear all loose and peeling paper.
2. Use an oil based sealer to thoroughly cover the exposed paper surfaces. You may use more than one coat if needed, including the edges.
3. Once dried use drywall mud to apply thin layers as needed, sanding between layers as normal.
4. Then prime and paint as for any other drywall surface. |
1,376 | While doing some work in my bathroom, one thing led to another and paint started peeling. I found that under many layers of paint was some wallpaper so it seemed natural to pull...
I started peeling it off like crazy, in huge pieces before I realized that what was left behind was not so nice: drywall with its paper peeled off.
It looks like part of the drywall's paper has come off, leaving a rough, fuzzy, roughish surface (that's about 1ft2).
**Question: how do I fix this?** I might be able to scrape/sand it down smooth enough to paint...maybe.
Another option is to hang some wallpaper.
I *do not* want to go down to the studs and hang new drywall.
**UPDATE:**
I said I didn't want to go down to the studs...but that's what I ended up doing. It was not as hard as I expected but *did* add a lot of time and cost to the project. I couldn't have done it without YouTube :). | 2010/08/21 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/1376",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/344/"
] | Primer/paint will not work. It will be lower than the surrounding surface. It will not "fill in" (I've tried).
Try a skim coat of joint compound over the affected area to get it level. If it doesn't work, you'll have to replace the drywall.
Good luck! | If you don't want to go the plaster route (per ChrisF), you could try painting a thick coat or two of primer (which should, in theory, absorb a bit into and stabilize the surface), then sand that a bit before another coat of primer and then paint over it.
If you just try to sand what you've got, you'll never see the end - that's just not going to go smooth no matter how much you sand. You've got to effectively 'glue down' the surface bit. Plaster would definitely work, but I think primer might do OK too. |
1,376 | While doing some work in my bathroom, one thing led to another and paint started peeling. I found that under many layers of paint was some wallpaper so it seemed natural to pull...
I started peeling it off like crazy, in huge pieces before I realized that what was left behind was not so nice: drywall with its paper peeled off.
It looks like part of the drywall's paper has come off, leaving a rough, fuzzy, roughish surface (that's about 1ft2).
**Question: how do I fix this?** I might be able to scrape/sand it down smooth enough to paint...maybe.
Another option is to hang some wallpaper.
I *do not* want to go down to the studs and hang new drywall.
**UPDATE:**
I said I didn't want to go down to the studs...but that's what I ended up doing. It was not as hard as I expected but *did* add a lot of time and cost to the project. I couldn't have done it without YouTube :). | 2010/08/21 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/1376",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/344/"
] | Short of replacing the drywall, you can do a skim coat as others have suggested. However, **be careful** - if you do too thick of a coat, the paper will absorb too much moisture and will bubble underneath the mud/plaster. You'll then have to sand it down, cut out the bubbled section, and skim again. Trust me, I've done this and dealt with that exact problem. Just use a thin coat, sand it smooth, and if necessary add another coat. You can then texture, prime, and paint. | If you don't want to go the plaster route (per ChrisF), you could try painting a thick coat or two of primer (which should, in theory, absorb a bit into and stabilize the surface), then sand that a bit before another coat of primer and then paint over it.
If you just try to sand what you've got, you'll never see the end - that's just not going to go smooth no matter how much you sand. You've got to effectively 'glue down' the surface bit. Plaster would definitely work, but I think primer might do OK too. |
1,376 | While doing some work in my bathroom, one thing led to another and paint started peeling. I found that under many layers of paint was some wallpaper so it seemed natural to pull...
I started peeling it off like crazy, in huge pieces before I realized that what was left behind was not so nice: drywall with its paper peeled off.
It looks like part of the drywall's paper has come off, leaving a rough, fuzzy, roughish surface (that's about 1ft2).
**Question: how do I fix this?** I might be able to scrape/sand it down smooth enough to paint...maybe.
Another option is to hang some wallpaper.
I *do not* want to go down to the studs and hang new drywall.
**UPDATE:**
I said I didn't want to go down to the studs...but that's what I ended up doing. It was not as hard as I expected but *did* add a lot of time and cost to the project. I couldn't have done it without YouTube :). | 2010/08/21 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/1376",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/344/"
] | In reality the brownish inner layer of drywall paper is very absorbent of water and also comes off in chunks if you try to sand, so never sand or apply water based material over it. If you sand you will still have similar problem of fluffy brown paper to deal with and it will be deeper than surrounding areas. If you apply joint compound, as some have suggested directly over the peeled untreated paper you will get swelling and bubbles all over and have a mess.
The proper repair is as follows:
1. Trim all edges of the affected area with a sharp razor knife to clear all loose and peeling paper.
2. Use an oil based sealer to thoroughly cover the exposed paper surfaces. You may use more than one coat if needed, including the edges.
3. Once dried use drywall mud to apply thin layers as needed, sanding between layers as normal.
4. Then prime and paint as for any other drywall surface. | If you don't want to go the plaster route (per ChrisF), you could try painting a thick coat or two of primer (which should, in theory, absorb a bit into and stabilize the surface), then sand that a bit before another coat of primer and then paint over it.
If you just try to sand what you've got, you'll never see the end - that's just not going to go smooth no matter how much you sand. You've got to effectively 'glue down' the surface bit. Plaster would definitely work, but I think primer might do OK too. |
29,186,103 | My game screen uses both Scene2d and normal libgdx sprites. I use scene2d for the pause menus which contain some tables and textbuttons. All is ok on the pc. All is ok also on two mobile phones I'm testing the game on, but I have a pb on a third phone. It seems that after a restart or two of the game level all the scene2d elements that are supposed to appear on the screen have turned black. They are still responsive, meaning the buttons do what they are supposed to do, they move rotate and execute properly but they are all black. what could be the issue here? I don't have this pb on the pc or on the other phones. | 2015/03/21 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/29186103",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4170616/"
] | What you describe is a symptom of using a texture across a reset of the OpenGL context. Your app contains pointers, in the Libgdx Texture objects, into OpenGL state, and when the OpenGL device is given over to another app, your pointers become stale.
LibGDX generally does a good job of restoring state across simple resets, but there are several ways to cause problems. The most common is to (1) store LibGDX OpenGL state (e.g., a Texture) into a `static` property. The *JVM* will get reused across application instances, so LibGDX cannot tell that this static object has become stale. See <http://bitiotic.com/blog/2013/05/23/libgdx-and-android-application-lifecycle/> for details on how to trigger the different lifecyles.
See [In game Images disappear on Android device if i run from widget, but not when I install apk first time](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/26150098/) and [Android static object lifecycle](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/1944369) | I know that there is already best answer for this post, but maybe this will somehow help you too:
[Texture is not displayed in the application](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/29135636/texture-is-not-displayed-in-the-application/29138176#29138176)
the main idea is to dispose your assets and load them again when application becomes visible |
18,944,532 | Can one use meteor to build mobile applications ?
The application in phonegap data synchronization? | 2013/09/22 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/18944532",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/2716095/"
] | In addition to Morten Henriksen's [Meteor-Cordova approach mentioned above](https://github.com/raix/Meteor-Cordova) (as mentioned in comments), you should also take a look at Kasper Souren's [meteor-phonegap](https://github.com/guaka/meteor-phonegap), and Abigail Watson's [Cordova-phonegap package](https://github.com/awatson1978/cordova-phonegap).
Alan Blount has written a nice blog post (from late August, 2013) summarizing and assessing the various approaches:
**[Meteor + Phonegap/cordova (roundup – Fall 2013)](http://zeroasterisk.com/2013/08/22/meteor-phonegapcordova-roundup-fall-2013/)**
Last but not least, there's Tom Coleman's Devshop talk, "[How to get your Meteor app into the App Store](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeY1mZhvDy4)," which is viewable on the [Meteor YouTube channel](http://www.youtube.com/user/MeteorVideos). | I just published a new package that fixes the issues with the methods mentioned in jadewang's post and Alan Blout's blog. Installation and setup are really straight forward. Check the readme.
---
Overview
========
Cordova Loader's goal is to make using Meteor with Cordova as easy as using Meteor itself. The compiler interprets the provided Cordova project directory and compiles the assets into minified, platform-specific JavaScript files that are placed in the Meteor /public directory. When the client loads, it automatically pulls in the platform-specific file for that device. The Cordova API can be used from Meteor the same as it is from vanilla JS apps. Enjoy!
[Cordova Loader](https://github.com/andrewreedy/meteor-cordova-loader)
---
### Comparison with methods described [here](http://zeroasterisk.com/2013/08/22/meteor-phonegapcordova-roundup-fall-2013/)
* Lazy Loading (cordova-phonegap): Hard to manage all of the Cordova dependencies / Unfinished / Outdated
* Hijack (meteor-rider): Slow initial load / Can't use appcache / Issues with plugins.
* iFrame (meteor-cordova): iFrames generally are a pain including slow performance in native apps, glitchy scrolling, and having to wrap Cordova
* Cordova Loader:
+ Manages assets for you
+ Fast loading
+ Compatible with appcache
+ Compatible with Cordova plugins
+ No need for wrapper around Cordova
+ Minifies platform specific bundles
+ Automatically lazy loads platform specific bundles in client
+ Watches Cordova project plugin directory for changes |
18,944,532 | Can one use meteor to build mobile applications ?
The application in phonegap data synchronization? | 2013/09/22 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/18944532",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/2716095/"
] | In addition to Morten Henriksen's [Meteor-Cordova approach mentioned above](https://github.com/raix/Meteor-Cordova) (as mentioned in comments), you should also take a look at Kasper Souren's [meteor-phonegap](https://github.com/guaka/meteor-phonegap), and Abigail Watson's [Cordova-phonegap package](https://github.com/awatson1978/cordova-phonegap).
Alan Blount has written a nice blog post (from late August, 2013) summarizing and assessing the various approaches:
**[Meteor + Phonegap/cordova (roundup – Fall 2013)](http://zeroasterisk.com/2013/08/22/meteor-phonegapcordova-roundup-fall-2013/)**
Last but not least, there's Tom Coleman's Devshop talk, "[How to get your Meteor app into the App Store](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeY1mZhvDy4)," which is viewable on the [Meteor YouTube channel](http://www.youtube.com/user/MeteorVideos). | As of Meteor 0.9.2, support for building mobile apps in Meteor, for both iOS and Android! Now with just a few new Meteor commands you can add PhoneGap / Cordova packages to your app...
Check out Meteors blog post about it:
<https://www.meteor.com/blog/2014/09/15/meteor-092-iOS-Android-mobile-apps-phonegap-cordova> |
27,202,396 | I was analyzing chat application like telegram or whatsapp. as you know they are using a tcp connection to server.
the big problem of tcp connection is that when there is any issue in internet connection the xmpp client will be disconnected from server without telling server that i am disconnected and tcp connection will be open from server and message will be lost.
So one way for client and server to understand connection is lost is using ping .that is we set a time for server and client to ping each other and if connection is lost retry to connect. and again main problem of this solution is that it drains a lot of battery charge if for example we set client to ping each 10 second and if we set server to ping user each 40 second it will put a lot of load on server when we are dealing with lots of user.
But telegram and whatsapp doesn't have this problem because they will understand the tcp connection is lost up to 30 second and telegram is even faster and it will know in 4 or 5 second.
My problem is that i dont think whatsapp or telegram are using ping system actually pinging server each 10 second because it will drains battery.
What is your idea ? are they using ping system or they have found any solution for it.
I would be very thankful if anybody explain me how they are doing that | 2014/11/29 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/27202396",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/3503159/"
] | TCP itself has a way of detecting connection loss, so you don't need to ping at all. However, you can make a higher level heartbeat signal, in case the usual TCP way isn't fast enough.
<http://www.roman10.net/android-tcp-client-and-server-communication-programmingillustrated-with-example/> | You need to have some keepalive mechanism and have your server detect connection loss by missed keepalive. Otherwise, depending on the server configuration it can take a very long time to detect connection loss at TCP level. |
65,303,251 | When attempting to connect to a database requiring SSL, but SSL set to 'No' in WorkBench, I pressed cancel on the "Opening SQL Editor" and it presented me with the error:
"Cannot access a disposed object
Object name: 'HUDForm'." | 2020/12/15 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/65303251",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/10460872/"
] | Press **Windows** + **R**
type **%appdata%**
find **MySQL** folder
and **DELETE** that folder.
Open Workbench again and it will be fixed. | Had the same problem. I created another connection with the same IP and port number but different instance name and it worked to open the Workbench.
Give a try! |
65,303,251 | When attempting to connect to a database requiring SSL, but SSL set to 'No' in WorkBench, I pressed cancel on the "Opening SQL Editor" and it presented me with the error:
"Cannot access a disposed object
Object name: 'HUDForm'." | 2020/12/15 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/65303251",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/10460872/"
] | Had the same problem. I created another connection with the same IP and port number but different instance name and it worked to open the Workbench.
Give a try! | I tried the above and for whatever reason had no success.
A fresh install of workbench for me worked perfectly. |
65,303,251 | When attempting to connect to a database requiring SSL, but SSL set to 'No' in WorkBench, I pressed cancel on the "Opening SQL Editor" and it presented me with the error:
"Cannot access a disposed object
Object name: 'HUDForm'." | 2020/12/15 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/65303251",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/10460872/"
] | Had the same problem. I created another connection with the same IP and port number but different instance name and it worked to open the Workbench.
Give a try! | >
> **It may happen if you have changed MySQL password.**
>
>
>
* To solve this issue, go to ***edit connection*** and **test using password**
then load it on workbench. |
65,303,251 | When attempting to connect to a database requiring SSL, but SSL set to 'No' in WorkBench, I pressed cancel on the "Opening SQL Editor" and it presented me with the error:
"Cannot access a disposed object
Object name: 'HUDForm'." | 2020/12/15 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/65303251",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/10460872/"
] | Had the same problem. I created another connection with the same IP and port number but different instance name and it worked to open the Workbench.
Give a try! | I was connecting node js and mysql, and this error message shows up when i tried to connect to mysql through workbench! the problem was that i opened my connection with node js and i didn't close it. When i closed my vscode, this error message was gone... |
65,303,251 | When attempting to connect to a database requiring SSL, but SSL set to 'No' in WorkBench, I pressed cancel on the "Opening SQL Editor" and it presented me with the error:
"Cannot access a disposed object
Object name: 'HUDForm'." | 2020/12/15 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/65303251",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/10460872/"
] | Press **Windows** + **R**
type **%appdata%**
find **MySQL** folder
and **DELETE** that folder.
Open Workbench again and it will be fixed. | I tried the above and for whatever reason had no success.
A fresh install of workbench for me worked perfectly. |
65,303,251 | When attempting to connect to a database requiring SSL, but SSL set to 'No' in WorkBench, I pressed cancel on the "Opening SQL Editor" and it presented me with the error:
"Cannot access a disposed object
Object name: 'HUDForm'." | 2020/12/15 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/65303251",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/10460872/"
] | Press **Windows** + **R**
type **%appdata%**
find **MySQL** folder
and **DELETE** that folder.
Open Workbench again and it will be fixed. | >
> **It may happen if you have changed MySQL password.**
>
>
>
* To solve this issue, go to ***edit connection*** and **test using password**
then load it on workbench. |
65,303,251 | When attempting to connect to a database requiring SSL, but SSL set to 'No' in WorkBench, I pressed cancel on the "Opening SQL Editor" and it presented me with the error:
"Cannot access a disposed object
Object name: 'HUDForm'." | 2020/12/15 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/65303251",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/10460872/"
] | Press **Windows** + **R**
type **%appdata%**
find **MySQL** folder
and **DELETE** that folder.
Open Workbench again and it will be fixed. | I was connecting node js and mysql, and this error message shows up when i tried to connect to mysql through workbench! the problem was that i opened my connection with node js and i didn't close it. When i closed my vscode, this error message was gone... |
17,454 | I was once at a cafe on a Saturday; a novice joined our chess club meeting to have fun. After observing his opening moves, I concluded he randomly used pawns to attack the opponent (completely ignoring positioning, let alone developing, of pieces)
I offered to play a game with him. He told me about chess boxing (playing chess in between boxing rounds). After an enjoyable conversation, I then told him that chess IS like boxing: You must control the center, or be bullied around.
After enforcing this tip on him, I was extremely but delightfully surprised to find he was developing and positioning his pieces like a decent tournament player. *The only issue was his tactics; he would regularly hang pieces and not realize in the middle game why he moved a piece.* **The main idea is the simple advice of going over the following list:**
1. Asking what squares compromised the center (to which he answered correctly; e4, d4, e5, d5)
2. Asking whether pieces or pawns are stronger
3. Telling him every (opening) move must control one of those squares with the stronger resource
This list significantly improved his positioning, decision-making, and enjoyment for chess. My question is, what similarly short analogies have you told chess newcomers that connect real world situations with the nature of chess? | 2017/05/04 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/17454",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/13147/"
] | When I instruct beginners at our club, I use sports analogies. For example, I say that when two football (soccer, basketball, etc.) teams of equal ability oppose each other, if one were to lose a player and no substitutes were available, then that team would be at a distinct disadvantage, since they'd have one less blocker, defender, receiver, etc. to contest the opponent and should most likely ultimately lose as a result. For that reason, they should try not to fall behind in material while conversely trying to gain a material advantage themselves using tactics, which I explain. I use similar analogies for the opening stage, telling them that if their players (pieces) are still sitting on the bench (first rank) while the opponent's players are already on the field (the board), they cannot contribute to the battle and will fall behind from the start. Another analogy pointing out the necessity for quick development in the opening would be to compare it to a race where they were starting out ten or more yards behind if they didn't get their pieces out as fast as their opponent, indicating that they would then have difficulty catching up. All of these comparisons seem to help them understand the nature of chess. | The best advice for Amateurs would be the most Basic rules of Chess.
1. Develop your pieces first . Even though you may not be aware of any Opening knowledge or the importance of e4,d4 you should have an idea that Knights belong on Centre Squares , Bishops on good diagonals , Rooks on Open Files and King in a castled position.
2. Always try thinking one or two moves ahead . Solving tactical exercises would help you with that.
3. Basic Checkmate Patterns will help you to checkmate the opponent's king .
4. Make a habit of keeping an eye on all the Opponent's Pieces after your opponent plays a move. (This adheres to even the Best Players and they sometimes miss many moves).
5. When you learn, play Online Live Chess so that you would have an estimation of your own Chess Level. |
17,454 | I was once at a cafe on a Saturday; a novice joined our chess club meeting to have fun. After observing his opening moves, I concluded he randomly used pawns to attack the opponent (completely ignoring positioning, let alone developing, of pieces)
I offered to play a game with him. He told me about chess boxing (playing chess in between boxing rounds). After an enjoyable conversation, I then told him that chess IS like boxing: You must control the center, or be bullied around.
After enforcing this tip on him, I was extremely but delightfully surprised to find he was developing and positioning his pieces like a decent tournament player. *The only issue was his tactics; he would regularly hang pieces and not realize in the middle game why he moved a piece.* **The main idea is the simple advice of going over the following list:**
1. Asking what squares compromised the center (to which he answered correctly; e4, d4, e5, d5)
2. Asking whether pieces or pawns are stronger
3. Telling him every (opening) move must control one of those squares with the stronger resource
This list significantly improved his positioning, decision-making, and enjoyment for chess. My question is, what similarly short analogies have you told chess newcomers that connect real world situations with the nature of chess? | 2017/05/04 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/17454",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/13147/"
] | I don't like any of these answers as they are too wordy and assume a certain level of skill firsthand.
So, I would say:
1: Pay attention to what your opponent's move was. Many players get so focused on their own pieces they overlook what the opponent is doing, and suddenly they are dropping material. **Chess is like a dance so pay attention to what your partner (opponent) is doing.**
2: In association with #1, what does your opponent's move do? What are it's consequences? does it attack something? Does it leave something unprotected? Pay attention to that. **Chess is like a conversation with a long-time friend. Let the move speak to you and give you all the information it has and don't interrupt the story it is telling you.**
3: Do the basic "Captures, Checks, Threats" after *every* move. Just by looking at the board and mentally going over every capture, every check, and every clear threat, you will avoid losing material, and losing material is the single biggest problem for newbies. **Chess is like boxing - you have to be able to read and anticipate what "punches" your opponent plans to throw at you. There are no surprises in chess - everything is before you. You only have to develop the skills to look closer to find what truths the position is telling you.** | The first analogy to chess ever made seems cogent to me. I mean a **real army** preparing for a fight.
The real army can't afford a fight before being *placed on the strategically important positions*. This first stage is **development** and **opening** in chess.
In the **middlegame** the two armies should start a real war. The side that occupied more **important points** has an advantage in the fight.
To the values of pieces: It's clear that when you lose a casual soldier (pawn), it will be better then missing a knight etc. |
17,454 | I was once at a cafe on a Saturday; a novice joined our chess club meeting to have fun. After observing his opening moves, I concluded he randomly used pawns to attack the opponent (completely ignoring positioning, let alone developing, of pieces)
I offered to play a game with him. He told me about chess boxing (playing chess in between boxing rounds). After an enjoyable conversation, I then told him that chess IS like boxing: You must control the center, or be bullied around.
After enforcing this tip on him, I was extremely but delightfully surprised to find he was developing and positioning his pieces like a decent tournament player. *The only issue was his tactics; he would regularly hang pieces and not realize in the middle game why he moved a piece.* **The main idea is the simple advice of going over the following list:**
1. Asking what squares compromised the center (to which he answered correctly; e4, d4, e5, d5)
2. Asking whether pieces or pawns are stronger
3. Telling him every (opening) move must control one of those squares with the stronger resource
This list significantly improved his positioning, decision-making, and enjoyment for chess. My question is, what similarly short analogies have you told chess newcomers that connect real world situations with the nature of chess? | 2017/05/04 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/17454",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/13147/"
] | The first analogy to chess ever made seems cogent to me. I mean a **real army** preparing for a fight.
The real army can't afford a fight before being *placed on the strategically important positions*. This first stage is **development** and **opening** in chess.
In the **middlegame** the two armies should start a real war. The side that occupied more **important points** has an advantage in the fight.
To the values of pieces: It's clear that when you lose a casual soldier (pawn), it will be better then missing a knight etc. | **Strategy** is a strict adherence to rules. Not the legal rules - like moving bishops only diagonally - but guidelines, such as "Control the center." These guidelines are favorably set by you making it nearly impossible to lose, unless you're drinking.
However, the opponent may not be well-informed in strategy. Failure to comply, well-informed or not, results in unforgiving consequences for the violator.
Make your opponent respect your strategy, and don’t rush anything. Every time he breaks one of your rules, punish him with the consequence of breaking that rule.
* Did he exchange a bishop for a knight in an open game? Now take away
his advanced posts using pawns and release the potential of your
long-range pieces.
* Did he launch a kingside pawn roller with all of
his pieces on the queenside? Take advantage of the space you're
creating and nullify his anemic attack.
* Is the challenger creating
opening *faux pas* by pushing his pawns aimlessly? Infiltrate the
weak points e.g. holes.
These **tactics** - moving of the forces (pawns
and pieces) - are the *bridges between positions* that satisfy your
strategy.
On Tactics
----------
Crossing the bridge i.e. performing the tactic leads to the net conversion of one or more positive imbalances. Notice I said net. Some players will fight for queenside space and disastrously give up the center and development in the process.
It's all about assessing the situation. If that gain of space leads to a forced win, great. Otherwise, you're going to have to put up a herculean effort managing his counter-play. Avoiding this mistake is just a matter of sealing the opponent in and making sure the execution of the tactic doesn't give him chances.
Whose Strategy Is Better?
-------------------------
Usually, we get our guidelines from grandmasters and more commonly from IMs. Compliance with their successful (but verified) principles will result in your rating rocketing to prominence.
On the other hand, following advice from other amateurs isn't taboo as long as they show they're also improving. Your mileage may vary.
Testing a Guideline
-------------------
At any rate, flawed guidelines will not be powerful enough to influence the nature of the board. The result is your opponent's army running amok unpredictably (ending usually in your defeat). Your strategy will have to be taken back to the body shop for improvement.
At the body shop (some place with internet and snacks) strategy can easily be fixed by studying games from higher-rated players at least a few hundred points higher than your level. Look for moves that violate your guideline but lead to an advantage (more space, safer positioning, catching up in development, and/or more).
For example say that you believe you should capture any hanging pawn because several others told you it's a good idea. It makes sense, anyway: you agreed that more firepower leads to an easier win. During a game where you're two pawns up, you decide to use the restroom and go for a sip of water in celebration of your position.
When you return you find yourself in check. Subsequently you are checkmated in five moves because of an unforeseen tactic - a confusing experience. Surely being two pawns up guaranteed winning?
Now you have your guideline that needs repair.
1. You then **search for games** in a database from masters (or if you're a master, then FMs) where they violated the guideline (ignored the free pawns) but ended up with a superior position.
2. **Look for the preferred objective** that the master (or FM, etc.) followed instead of gaining material, instead of winning those free pawns. Was he focused on converting his dynamic play into a secure, static position that would bind his opponent and cause him to cry deep down inside?
3. **Make an exception for your guideline, if any.** If your guideline is strong, you may have a few exceptions - at most. Bishops are stronger than knights in open endgames **except** when there's pawns on only one side of the board.
If you find yourself constantly making exceptions for your guideline, the guideline itself may be an exception to some other, strong guideline. g2-g4 should be launched except if you castled kingside. g2-g4 is correct unless the f4 square creates an outpost for the enemy's pieces. After discovering a few more exceptions, you'll discover the stronger guideline: Don't endanger your king. Discard the old guideline for the novel, stronger one.
The Big Picture
---------------
Scrutinize as much as you can, then scrutinize some more. When someone tells you, "X rule should be followed", apply X to several games by grandmasters, IMs, or anyone clearly better than you. If it's constantly being violated, it's probably not useful. |
17,454 | I was once at a cafe on a Saturday; a novice joined our chess club meeting to have fun. After observing his opening moves, I concluded he randomly used pawns to attack the opponent (completely ignoring positioning, let alone developing, of pieces)
I offered to play a game with him. He told me about chess boxing (playing chess in between boxing rounds). After an enjoyable conversation, I then told him that chess IS like boxing: You must control the center, or be bullied around.
After enforcing this tip on him, I was extremely but delightfully surprised to find he was developing and positioning his pieces like a decent tournament player. *The only issue was his tactics; he would regularly hang pieces and not realize in the middle game why he moved a piece.* **The main idea is the simple advice of going over the following list:**
1. Asking what squares compromised the center (to which he answered correctly; e4, d4, e5, d5)
2. Asking whether pieces or pawns are stronger
3. Telling him every (opening) move must control one of those squares with the stronger resource
This list significantly improved his positioning, decision-making, and enjoyment for chess. My question is, what similarly short analogies have you told chess newcomers that connect real world situations with the nature of chess? | 2017/05/04 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/17454",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/13147/"
] | I don't like any of these answers as they are too wordy and assume a certain level of skill firsthand.
So, I would say:
1: Pay attention to what your opponent's move was. Many players get so focused on their own pieces they overlook what the opponent is doing, and suddenly they are dropping material. **Chess is like a dance so pay attention to what your partner (opponent) is doing.**
2: In association with #1, what does your opponent's move do? What are it's consequences? does it attack something? Does it leave something unprotected? Pay attention to that. **Chess is like a conversation with a long-time friend. Let the move speak to you and give you all the information it has and don't interrupt the story it is telling you.**
3: Do the basic "Captures, Checks, Threats" after *every* move. Just by looking at the board and mentally going over every capture, every check, and every clear threat, you will avoid losing material, and losing material is the single biggest problem for newbies. **Chess is like boxing - you have to be able to read and anticipate what "punches" your opponent plans to throw at you. There are no surprises in chess - everything is before you. You only have to develop the skills to look closer to find what truths the position is telling you.** | The best advice for Amateurs would be the most Basic rules of Chess.
1. Develop your pieces first . Even though you may not be aware of any Opening knowledge or the importance of e4,d4 you should have an idea that Knights belong on Centre Squares , Bishops on good diagonals , Rooks on Open Files and King in a castled position.
2. Always try thinking one or two moves ahead . Solving tactical exercises would help you with that.
3. Basic Checkmate Patterns will help you to checkmate the opponent's king .
4. Make a habit of keeping an eye on all the Opponent's Pieces after your opponent plays a move. (This adheres to even the Best Players and they sometimes miss many moves).
5. When you learn, play Online Live Chess so that you would have an estimation of your own Chess Level. |
17,454 | I was once at a cafe on a Saturday; a novice joined our chess club meeting to have fun. After observing his opening moves, I concluded he randomly used pawns to attack the opponent (completely ignoring positioning, let alone developing, of pieces)
I offered to play a game with him. He told me about chess boxing (playing chess in between boxing rounds). After an enjoyable conversation, I then told him that chess IS like boxing: You must control the center, or be bullied around.
After enforcing this tip on him, I was extremely but delightfully surprised to find he was developing and positioning his pieces like a decent tournament player. *The only issue was his tactics; he would regularly hang pieces and not realize in the middle game why he moved a piece.* **The main idea is the simple advice of going over the following list:**
1. Asking what squares compromised the center (to which he answered correctly; e4, d4, e5, d5)
2. Asking whether pieces or pawns are stronger
3. Telling him every (opening) move must control one of those squares with the stronger resource
This list significantly improved his positioning, decision-making, and enjoyment for chess. My question is, what similarly short analogies have you told chess newcomers that connect real world situations with the nature of chess? | 2017/05/04 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/17454",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/13147/"
] | I don't like any of these answers as they are too wordy and assume a certain level of skill firsthand.
So, I would say:
1: Pay attention to what your opponent's move was. Many players get so focused on their own pieces they overlook what the opponent is doing, and suddenly they are dropping material. **Chess is like a dance so pay attention to what your partner (opponent) is doing.**
2: In association with #1, what does your opponent's move do? What are it's consequences? does it attack something? Does it leave something unprotected? Pay attention to that. **Chess is like a conversation with a long-time friend. Let the move speak to you and give you all the information it has and don't interrupt the story it is telling you.**
3: Do the basic "Captures, Checks, Threats" after *every* move. Just by looking at the board and mentally going over every capture, every check, and every clear threat, you will avoid losing material, and losing material is the single biggest problem for newbies. **Chess is like boxing - you have to be able to read and anticipate what "punches" your opponent plans to throw at you. There are no surprises in chess - everything is before you. You only have to develop the skills to look closer to find what truths the position is telling you.** | Maximize mobility.
------------------
Put every piece where it has the most places it can go. Bishops go on long diagonals. Rooks on open files. Knights prefer the center of the board.
Look for forcing moves.
-----------------------
Put your opponent in situations where he has no choice. The most powerful forcing move is the Mate Threat. Next is the Check. And next, any time a weaker piece threatens a stronger piece. As you learn more tactics, you learn more ways to force a move.
Find your opponents weaknesses and concentrate your firepower on them.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Look for weak spots in your opponent's game - backwards pawns, pieces that can be pinned, holes in his pawn structure, areas where his mobility is constricted - and concentrate your firepower on them. |
17,454 | I was once at a cafe on a Saturday; a novice joined our chess club meeting to have fun. After observing his opening moves, I concluded he randomly used pawns to attack the opponent (completely ignoring positioning, let alone developing, of pieces)
I offered to play a game with him. He told me about chess boxing (playing chess in between boxing rounds). After an enjoyable conversation, I then told him that chess IS like boxing: You must control the center, or be bullied around.
After enforcing this tip on him, I was extremely but delightfully surprised to find he was developing and positioning his pieces like a decent tournament player. *The only issue was his tactics; he would regularly hang pieces and not realize in the middle game why he moved a piece.* **The main idea is the simple advice of going over the following list:**
1. Asking what squares compromised the center (to which he answered correctly; e4, d4, e5, d5)
2. Asking whether pieces or pawns are stronger
3. Telling him every (opening) move must control one of those squares with the stronger resource
This list significantly improved his positioning, decision-making, and enjoyment for chess. My question is, what similarly short analogies have you told chess newcomers that connect real world situations with the nature of chess? | 2017/05/04 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/17454",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/13147/"
] | The first analogy to chess ever made seems cogent to me. I mean a **real army** preparing for a fight.
The real army can't afford a fight before being *placed on the strategically important positions*. This first stage is **development** and **opening** in chess.
In the **middlegame** the two armies should start a real war. The side that occupied more **important points** has an advantage in the fight.
To the values of pieces: It's clear that when you lose a casual soldier (pawn), it will be better then missing a knight etc. | The best advice for Amateurs would be the most Basic rules of Chess.
1. Develop your pieces first . Even though you may not be aware of any Opening knowledge or the importance of e4,d4 you should have an idea that Knights belong on Centre Squares , Bishops on good diagonals , Rooks on Open Files and King in a castled position.
2. Always try thinking one or two moves ahead . Solving tactical exercises would help you with that.
3. Basic Checkmate Patterns will help you to checkmate the opponent's king .
4. Make a habit of keeping an eye on all the Opponent's Pieces after your opponent plays a move. (This adheres to even the Best Players and they sometimes miss many moves).
5. When you learn, play Online Live Chess so that you would have an estimation of your own Chess Level. |
17,454 | I was once at a cafe on a Saturday; a novice joined our chess club meeting to have fun. After observing his opening moves, I concluded he randomly used pawns to attack the opponent (completely ignoring positioning, let alone developing, of pieces)
I offered to play a game with him. He told me about chess boxing (playing chess in between boxing rounds). After an enjoyable conversation, I then told him that chess IS like boxing: You must control the center, or be bullied around.
After enforcing this tip on him, I was extremely but delightfully surprised to find he was developing and positioning his pieces like a decent tournament player. *The only issue was his tactics; he would regularly hang pieces and not realize in the middle game why he moved a piece.* **The main idea is the simple advice of going over the following list:**
1. Asking what squares compromised the center (to which he answered correctly; e4, d4, e5, d5)
2. Asking whether pieces or pawns are stronger
3. Telling him every (opening) move must control one of those squares with the stronger resource
This list significantly improved his positioning, decision-making, and enjoyment for chess. My question is, what similarly short analogies have you told chess newcomers that connect real world situations with the nature of chess? | 2017/05/04 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/17454",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/13147/"
] | The first analogy to chess ever made seems cogent to me. I mean a **real army** preparing for a fight.
The real army can't afford a fight before being *placed on the strategically important positions*. This first stage is **development** and **opening** in chess.
In the **middlegame** the two armies should start a real war. The side that occupied more **important points** has an advantage in the fight.
To the values of pieces: It's clear that when you lose a casual soldier (pawn), it will be better then missing a knight etc. | Maximize mobility.
------------------
Put every piece where it has the most places it can go. Bishops go on long diagonals. Rooks on open files. Knights prefer the center of the board.
Look for forcing moves.
-----------------------
Put your opponent in situations where he has no choice. The most powerful forcing move is the Mate Threat. Next is the Check. And next, any time a weaker piece threatens a stronger piece. As you learn more tactics, you learn more ways to force a move.
Find your opponents weaknesses and concentrate your firepower on them.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Look for weak spots in your opponent's game - backwards pawns, pieces that can be pinned, holes in his pawn structure, areas where his mobility is constricted - and concentrate your firepower on them. |
17,454 | I was once at a cafe on a Saturday; a novice joined our chess club meeting to have fun. After observing his opening moves, I concluded he randomly used pawns to attack the opponent (completely ignoring positioning, let alone developing, of pieces)
I offered to play a game with him. He told me about chess boxing (playing chess in between boxing rounds). After an enjoyable conversation, I then told him that chess IS like boxing: You must control the center, or be bullied around.
After enforcing this tip on him, I was extremely but delightfully surprised to find he was developing and positioning his pieces like a decent tournament player. *The only issue was his tactics; he would regularly hang pieces and not realize in the middle game why he moved a piece.* **The main idea is the simple advice of going over the following list:**
1. Asking what squares compromised the center (to which he answered correctly; e4, d4, e5, d5)
2. Asking whether pieces or pawns are stronger
3. Telling him every (opening) move must control one of those squares with the stronger resource
This list significantly improved his positioning, decision-making, and enjoyment for chess. My question is, what similarly short analogies have you told chess newcomers that connect real world situations with the nature of chess? | 2017/05/04 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/17454",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/13147/"
] | When I instruct beginners at our club, I use sports analogies. For example, I say that when two football (soccer, basketball, etc.) teams of equal ability oppose each other, if one were to lose a player and no substitutes were available, then that team would be at a distinct disadvantage, since they'd have one less blocker, defender, receiver, etc. to contest the opponent and should most likely ultimately lose as a result. For that reason, they should try not to fall behind in material while conversely trying to gain a material advantage themselves using tactics, which I explain. I use similar analogies for the opening stage, telling them that if their players (pieces) are still sitting on the bench (first rank) while the opponent's players are already on the field (the board), they cannot contribute to the battle and will fall behind from the start. Another analogy pointing out the necessity for quick development in the opening would be to compare it to a race where they were starting out ten or more yards behind if they didn't get their pieces out as fast as their opponent, indicating that they would then have difficulty catching up. All of these comparisons seem to help them understand the nature of chess. | I don't like any of these answers as they are too wordy and assume a certain level of skill firsthand.
So, I would say:
1: Pay attention to what your opponent's move was. Many players get so focused on their own pieces they overlook what the opponent is doing, and suddenly they are dropping material. **Chess is like a dance so pay attention to what your partner (opponent) is doing.**
2: In association with #1, what does your opponent's move do? What are it's consequences? does it attack something? Does it leave something unprotected? Pay attention to that. **Chess is like a conversation with a long-time friend. Let the move speak to you and give you all the information it has and don't interrupt the story it is telling you.**
3: Do the basic "Captures, Checks, Threats" after *every* move. Just by looking at the board and mentally going over every capture, every check, and every clear threat, you will avoid losing material, and losing material is the single biggest problem for newbies. **Chess is like boxing - you have to be able to read and anticipate what "punches" your opponent plans to throw at you. There are no surprises in chess - everything is before you. You only have to develop the skills to look closer to find what truths the position is telling you.** |
17,454 | I was once at a cafe on a Saturday; a novice joined our chess club meeting to have fun. After observing his opening moves, I concluded he randomly used pawns to attack the opponent (completely ignoring positioning, let alone developing, of pieces)
I offered to play a game with him. He told me about chess boxing (playing chess in between boxing rounds). After an enjoyable conversation, I then told him that chess IS like boxing: You must control the center, or be bullied around.
After enforcing this tip on him, I was extremely but delightfully surprised to find he was developing and positioning his pieces like a decent tournament player. *The only issue was his tactics; he would regularly hang pieces and not realize in the middle game why he moved a piece.* **The main idea is the simple advice of going over the following list:**
1. Asking what squares compromised the center (to which he answered correctly; e4, d4, e5, d5)
2. Asking whether pieces or pawns are stronger
3. Telling him every (opening) move must control one of those squares with the stronger resource
This list significantly improved his positioning, decision-making, and enjoyment for chess. My question is, what similarly short analogies have you told chess newcomers that connect real world situations with the nature of chess? | 2017/05/04 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/17454",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/13147/"
] | When I instruct beginners at our club, I use sports analogies. For example, I say that when two football (soccer, basketball, etc.) teams of equal ability oppose each other, if one were to lose a player and no substitutes were available, then that team would be at a distinct disadvantage, since they'd have one less blocker, defender, receiver, etc. to contest the opponent and should most likely ultimately lose as a result. For that reason, they should try not to fall behind in material while conversely trying to gain a material advantage themselves using tactics, which I explain. I use similar analogies for the opening stage, telling them that if their players (pieces) are still sitting on the bench (first rank) while the opponent's players are already on the field (the board), they cannot contribute to the battle and will fall behind from the start. Another analogy pointing out the necessity for quick development in the opening would be to compare it to a race where they were starting out ten or more yards behind if they didn't get their pieces out as fast as their opponent, indicating that they would then have difficulty catching up. All of these comparisons seem to help them understand the nature of chess. | The first analogy to chess ever made seems cogent to me. I mean a **real army** preparing for a fight.
The real army can't afford a fight before being *placed on the strategically important positions*. This first stage is **development** and **opening** in chess.
In the **middlegame** the two armies should start a real war. The side that occupied more **important points** has an advantage in the fight.
To the values of pieces: It's clear that when you lose a casual soldier (pawn), it will be better then missing a knight etc. |
17,454 | I was once at a cafe on a Saturday; a novice joined our chess club meeting to have fun. After observing his opening moves, I concluded he randomly used pawns to attack the opponent (completely ignoring positioning, let alone developing, of pieces)
I offered to play a game with him. He told me about chess boxing (playing chess in between boxing rounds). After an enjoyable conversation, I then told him that chess IS like boxing: You must control the center, or be bullied around.
After enforcing this tip on him, I was extremely but delightfully surprised to find he was developing and positioning his pieces like a decent tournament player. *The only issue was his tactics; he would regularly hang pieces and not realize in the middle game why he moved a piece.* **The main idea is the simple advice of going over the following list:**
1. Asking what squares compromised the center (to which he answered correctly; e4, d4, e5, d5)
2. Asking whether pieces or pawns are stronger
3. Telling him every (opening) move must control one of those squares with the stronger resource
This list significantly improved his positioning, decision-making, and enjoyment for chess. My question is, what similarly short analogies have you told chess newcomers that connect real world situations with the nature of chess? | 2017/05/04 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/17454",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/13147/"
] | When I instruct beginners at our club, I use sports analogies. For example, I say that when two football (soccer, basketball, etc.) teams of equal ability oppose each other, if one were to lose a player and no substitutes were available, then that team would be at a distinct disadvantage, since they'd have one less blocker, defender, receiver, etc. to contest the opponent and should most likely ultimately lose as a result. For that reason, they should try not to fall behind in material while conversely trying to gain a material advantage themselves using tactics, which I explain. I use similar analogies for the opening stage, telling them that if their players (pieces) are still sitting on the bench (first rank) while the opponent's players are already on the field (the board), they cannot contribute to the battle and will fall behind from the start. Another analogy pointing out the necessity for quick development in the opening would be to compare it to a race where they were starting out ten or more yards behind if they didn't get their pieces out as fast as their opponent, indicating that they would then have difficulty catching up. All of these comparisons seem to help them understand the nature of chess. | I really like this question, because I never realized how much of my chess reasoning (for better or worse) I applied elsewhere. So I hope these answers work, or they inspire others to come up with something better.
1. I have related a part of chess to negotiations. This is an oversimplification, but it works as follows: when you have a potential capture for an even trade, don't do it just to have something to do. Whoever blinks first usually gives something up. So taking a piece is like naming a figure in a negotiation. If you'd be happy with it and it's clearly advantageous to you, then accept it. This is particularly useful to chess players who may not be terribly social or say they aren't good negotiators, because it gives them some assurance that thinking calmly and not giving someone else something for free is itself negotiation.
2. You know how you have stuff you check before you leave your house or apartment? Keys, wallet, make sure the door is locked, lights turned off? An even longer list if you're going away for the weekend? Have stuff you check on the chessboard too after each move. Like the leaving-your-place list, it doesn't have to be too fancy, because you don't want to lose your nerves. The obvious stuff like no vicious checks/forks/pieces hanging/weaknesses made will go a long way. Similarly, maybe you have a weekly grocery list that doesn't change much. Each move you can do a simple checkoff. If that list becomes inadequate or too unwieldy (e.g. buying too much/little food), you can always tune it up later.
3. This is a bit of a stretch, and it's a reverse on the previous point, but you could also compare seeing a piece you could just take to a flyer saying "YOU MAY ALREADY HAVE WON!" You need to do your due diligence, but if nothing's fishy, then go for it. Don't respect your opponent too much. |
267,963 | In my company I'm often using RS232 connections between PCs and old peripherals (sub-D 9 pin). I'm only needing RX & TX signals, so I usually use audio-like coaxial stereo cable, to keep it simple. I use both signal cables for RX & TX signals and connect the screen to ground pin. It works fine, but I'm not sure if it is the best practice and the possible caveats...
I suppose it will be better to use 3 wire cable (RX, TX & ground) and then connect the screen to the connector frames, but then the cable will be bigger, more expensive and difficult to find.
So, when using 2 wire screened cable... Is the noise protection assured? There may be ground issues? | 2016/11/07 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/267963",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/123923/"
] | This depends on the application. The signal ground fills two purposes:
* Even out voltage potential differences = fundamental electronics.
* Act as a clean signal reference, as opposed to the "dirty" supply ground.
Some applications are less picky than others, and then you can "cheat" by not using a signal ground, but let the supply ground act as reference. This might work ok if the supply is decent and there are no high currents in the system. But for industrial/automotive applications, a dedicated signal ground is almost certainly needed.
The shield is there for another purpose entirely, namely to protect against immunity/emissions. It should only be connected on one side, to a ground different from the signal ground (for example supply ground, chassis etc). Depending on baudrate, environment etc, a shield may or may not be needed. | After some time I decided to answer my own question. As all the serial connections I made using the way stated in the question were working fine, I suppose there is no real risk in using "audio-like" cable and connecting the screen to ground pin.
Also, an electrical engineering PhD from an outsourced company validated some of this setups, so I assume it is really Ok. |
36,129 | Let me break down my thoughts and I have no science background so let me know if this could even be possible.
1. Have the colony on an object like a big asteroid or a similar man made construct.
2. Have the object orbit around the sun at a distance where the sun's gravity is 1g
3. Have the object tidally locked into its orbit around the sun
4. This way we would get the 1g gravity from the sun on the opposite side of the asteroid
5. Solar power should give us most of our power supply
6. Reflecting a small portion of the light could give plants enough to grow and simulate night and day
So the questions are:
1. Could we survive at the distance of 1g from the sun?
2. And if so, how thick would the object need to be in order to protect us from the heat and any radiation from the sun at that distances?
3. Could we keep an object orbiting the sun at that distance for a long period of time?
4. Any other input you think would be nice
Thanks and I hope I explained my crazy thoughts thoroughly enough. | 2019/05/14 | [
"https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/36129",
"https://space.stackexchange.com",
"https://space.stackexchange.com/users/31504/"
] | Like other people have said, an orbit will not induce local gravity from the sun, because an orbit is in freefall by definition. What you want is a statite, which uses solar radiation pressure to maintain a fixed distance from the sun. This relies on the sail's [lightness number](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_sail#Sail_parameters), which is the ratio of its maximum acceleration to the sun's gravity, and which normally does not vary with distance. The maximum available acceleration with current technology is 0.26, which is not very good. The theoretical maximum, with some kind of lattice sail, is 22, which is enough. However, that's only the beginning of the troubles you might have.
To get 1g of gravity from the sun, you need to be at about 5.29 solar radii, or 3.68 million kilometers, or 0.025 AUs. At that distance, you receive about 1600 times as much sunlight as you do on Earth. The article on solar sails says that carefully designed sails can maintain safe operating temperatures down to 0.25 AUs.
If you can get a sail working at that altitude, you'd have to protect the station from the sun's light. Using information from designs of probes like the [Parker Space Probe](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parker_Solar_Probe), we could probably keep the temperature of both the sail and the station down by having the sail's incident surface be sharply angled from the sun's light, like a cone, and by keeping the station in the sail's shadow, like a broom balanced on someone's hand. Note that angling the surface reduces how much thrust you can get from it, and the total lightness number of the sail and the station together needs to be greater than 1 even in the worst contingency. Don't forget that the lightness number (which is normally independent of distance) is actually reduced while close to the sun, because it's no longer a point emitter; it takes up about 22° of the sky, so your solar cone will have to be large enough to cover that much from the station's perspective.
Complicating matters is the fact that the station will be in the sun's [corona](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corona), which is much more active in terms of radiation than the solar wind is. It's also well within the distance that the sun forms coronal loops of magnetic and plasma energy, which are the structures that give rise to coronal mass ejections. Those ejections can cause blackouts and wreak havoc on Earth, millions of kilometers away; who knows what will happen to the station if a coronal loop forms on top of it? To protect against such a thing, you need radiation shielding, which is invariably heavy, and goes against the statite being as light as possible.
Then there's the problem of maintenance. How do you repair the solar sail if it tears? You certainly can't be on the sun side of it, or you'll explode like a watermelon in an incinerator. The hole in the screen will let massive amounts of light through, which will sear anything in their rays, and even if you're patching it from the shady side, the reflections from the piece of solar sail you're attaching will burn out the eyes of any astronaut unlucky enough to be working there. Also, if whatever supports hold the station in place relative to the sail fail, you don't have the luxury of it being in orbit; it will fall like an actual rock on actual Earth. If you're lucky and find out about it when it happens, you'll have just enough time for last rites before you fall through the sail and burn.
All in all, there are much easier ways of generating artificial gravity aboard space stations. | It would be far easier to build a million Bernal Spheres or O'neil cylinders than to engineer something to withstand that much heat and radiation. Maybe a shell around a brown dwarf or a gas giant would be easier. Jupiter still produces radiation though. |
36,129 | Let me break down my thoughts and I have no science background so let me know if this could even be possible.
1. Have the colony on an object like a big asteroid or a similar man made construct.
2. Have the object orbit around the sun at a distance where the sun's gravity is 1g
3. Have the object tidally locked into its orbit around the sun
4. This way we would get the 1g gravity from the sun on the opposite side of the asteroid
5. Solar power should give us most of our power supply
6. Reflecting a small portion of the light could give plants enough to grow and simulate night and day
So the questions are:
1. Could we survive at the distance of 1g from the sun?
2. And if so, how thick would the object need to be in order to protect us from the heat and any radiation from the sun at that distances?
3. Could we keep an object orbiting the sun at that distance for a long period of time?
4. Any other input you think would be nice
Thanks and I hope I explained my crazy thoughts thoroughly enough. | 2019/05/14 | [
"https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/36129",
"https://space.stackexchange.com",
"https://space.stackexchange.com/users/31504/"
] | Like other people have said, an orbit will not induce local gravity from the sun, because an orbit is in freefall by definition. What you want is a statite, which uses solar radiation pressure to maintain a fixed distance from the sun. This relies on the sail's [lightness number](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_sail#Sail_parameters), which is the ratio of its maximum acceleration to the sun's gravity, and which normally does not vary with distance. The maximum available acceleration with current technology is 0.26, which is not very good. The theoretical maximum, with some kind of lattice sail, is 22, which is enough. However, that's only the beginning of the troubles you might have.
To get 1g of gravity from the sun, you need to be at about 5.29 solar radii, or 3.68 million kilometers, or 0.025 AUs. At that distance, you receive about 1600 times as much sunlight as you do on Earth. The article on solar sails says that carefully designed sails can maintain safe operating temperatures down to 0.25 AUs.
If you can get a sail working at that altitude, you'd have to protect the station from the sun's light. Using information from designs of probes like the [Parker Space Probe](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parker_Solar_Probe), we could probably keep the temperature of both the sail and the station down by having the sail's incident surface be sharply angled from the sun's light, like a cone, and by keeping the station in the sail's shadow, like a broom balanced on someone's hand. Note that angling the surface reduces how much thrust you can get from it, and the total lightness number of the sail and the station together needs to be greater than 1 even in the worst contingency. Don't forget that the lightness number (which is normally independent of distance) is actually reduced while close to the sun, because it's no longer a point emitter; it takes up about 22° of the sky, so your solar cone will have to be large enough to cover that much from the station's perspective.
Complicating matters is the fact that the station will be in the sun's [corona](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corona), which is much more active in terms of radiation than the solar wind is. It's also well within the distance that the sun forms coronal loops of magnetic and plasma energy, which are the structures that give rise to coronal mass ejections. Those ejections can cause blackouts and wreak havoc on Earth, millions of kilometers away; who knows what will happen to the station if a coronal loop forms on top of it? To protect against such a thing, you need radiation shielding, which is invariably heavy, and goes against the statite being as light as possible.
Then there's the problem of maintenance. How do you repair the solar sail if it tears? You certainly can't be on the sun side of it, or you'll explode like a watermelon in an incinerator. The hole in the screen will let massive amounts of light through, which will sear anything in their rays, and even if you're patching it from the shady side, the reflections from the piece of solar sail you're attaching will burn out the eyes of any astronaut unlucky enough to be working there. Also, if whatever supports hold the station in place relative to the sail fail, you don't have the luxury of it being in orbit; it will fall like an actual rock on actual Earth. If you're lucky and find out about it when it happens, you'll have just enough time for last rites before you fall through the sail and burn.
All in all, there are much easier ways of generating artificial gravity aboard space stations. | Unfortunately, that won't work. The 1 gee of force downwards would be canceled out by the 1 g of force upwards that you experience as centripetal force by being in orbit. Even if you let the station/colony/thing free-fall (which it is in orbit), you won't feel gravity until you get close enough the difference in gravity between your station and you is severe enough that you'll be able to feel it. I'm guessing that being that close wouldn't be a great idea. When you're free falling, which is what orbit is, you and the colony are accelerating at equal rates. Because of this, you don't feel any acceleration relative to the colony. If you've ever been in a plane, you feel this when there's turbulence. If the plane makes a big enough drop, you can feel yourself lose contact with the seat and "float" up a little bit. This usually doesn't last long (unless the plane is crashing, in which case you have better things to be doing than reading this). You can sometimes feel this in cars going down hills as well. Anyway, a better solution would be to spin the station. However, if it's spinning, then you need the station to be able to withstand those forces, and the size of station needed increases dramatically. Artificial gravity in space is difficult! |
36,129 | Let me break down my thoughts and I have no science background so let me know if this could even be possible.
1. Have the colony on an object like a big asteroid or a similar man made construct.
2. Have the object orbit around the sun at a distance where the sun's gravity is 1g
3. Have the object tidally locked into its orbit around the sun
4. This way we would get the 1g gravity from the sun on the opposite side of the asteroid
5. Solar power should give us most of our power supply
6. Reflecting a small portion of the light could give plants enough to grow and simulate night and day
So the questions are:
1. Could we survive at the distance of 1g from the sun?
2. And if so, how thick would the object need to be in order to protect us from the heat and any radiation from the sun at that distances?
3. Could we keep an object orbiting the sun at that distance for a long period of time?
4. Any other input you think would be nice
Thanks and I hope I explained my crazy thoughts thoroughly enough. | 2019/05/14 | [
"https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/36129",
"https://space.stackexchange.com",
"https://space.stackexchange.com/users/31504/"
] | Interesting but no, it wouldn't work for the same reason that astronauts in the International Space Station, other space stations, or orbiting shuttles or capsules do not "feel" gravity with respect to their station or capsule.
When you are inside an object which is in orbit, *you are in orbit too!* The Earth pulls on the station with nearly 1 g and it pulls on you the same amount, but you are both orbiting so you move in the same circles. This gives you the experience of weightlessness within the object, be it an asteroid, shuttle, capsule, or space station.
Watch ISS Expedition 22 Commander [Jeffry Williams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeffrey_Williams_(astronaut)) in the video [Demonstration of Acceleration Inside the International Space Station During a Reboost](https://youtu.be/8MR3daaWLXI). As soon as the space station starts to accelerate due to a reboost burn, you can see the camera appear to move *backwards* (towards us).
What's really happening is that the camera is simply remaining in its original orbit and the ISS is accelerating *forwards* (in the same direction we are looking). Both feel nearly 1 g *downwards* from Earth, and that's what keeps both in a circular orbit rather than shooting straight out into space.
About Tidal Forces:
-------------------
[@PeterCordes' answer](https://space.stackexchange.com/a/36135/12102) answer addresses this better than I can, so I'll direct you there to read further.
--- | Like other people have said, an orbit will not induce local gravity from the sun, because an orbit is in freefall by definition. What you want is a statite, which uses solar radiation pressure to maintain a fixed distance from the sun. This relies on the sail's [lightness number](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_sail#Sail_parameters), which is the ratio of its maximum acceleration to the sun's gravity, and which normally does not vary with distance. The maximum available acceleration with current technology is 0.26, which is not very good. The theoretical maximum, with some kind of lattice sail, is 22, which is enough. However, that's only the beginning of the troubles you might have.
To get 1g of gravity from the sun, you need to be at about 5.29 solar radii, or 3.68 million kilometers, or 0.025 AUs. At that distance, you receive about 1600 times as much sunlight as you do on Earth. The article on solar sails says that carefully designed sails can maintain safe operating temperatures down to 0.25 AUs.
If you can get a sail working at that altitude, you'd have to protect the station from the sun's light. Using information from designs of probes like the [Parker Space Probe](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parker_Solar_Probe), we could probably keep the temperature of both the sail and the station down by having the sail's incident surface be sharply angled from the sun's light, like a cone, and by keeping the station in the sail's shadow, like a broom balanced on someone's hand. Note that angling the surface reduces how much thrust you can get from it, and the total lightness number of the sail and the station together needs to be greater than 1 even in the worst contingency. Don't forget that the lightness number (which is normally independent of distance) is actually reduced while close to the sun, because it's no longer a point emitter; it takes up about 22° of the sky, so your solar cone will have to be large enough to cover that much from the station's perspective.
Complicating matters is the fact that the station will be in the sun's [corona](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corona), which is much more active in terms of radiation than the solar wind is. It's also well within the distance that the sun forms coronal loops of magnetic and plasma energy, which are the structures that give rise to coronal mass ejections. Those ejections can cause blackouts and wreak havoc on Earth, millions of kilometers away; who knows what will happen to the station if a coronal loop forms on top of it? To protect against such a thing, you need radiation shielding, which is invariably heavy, and goes against the statite being as light as possible.
Then there's the problem of maintenance. How do you repair the solar sail if it tears? You certainly can't be on the sun side of it, or you'll explode like a watermelon in an incinerator. The hole in the screen will let massive amounts of light through, which will sear anything in their rays, and even if you're patching it from the shady side, the reflections from the piece of solar sail you're attaching will burn out the eyes of any astronaut unlucky enough to be working there. Also, if whatever supports hold the station in place relative to the sail fail, you don't have the luxury of it being in orbit; it will fall like an actual rock on actual Earth. If you're lucky and find out about it when it happens, you'll have just enough time for last rites before you fall through the sail and burn.
All in all, there are much easier ways of generating artificial gravity aboard space stations. |
36,129 | Let me break down my thoughts and I have no science background so let me know if this could even be possible.
1. Have the colony on an object like a big asteroid or a similar man made construct.
2. Have the object orbit around the sun at a distance where the sun's gravity is 1g
3. Have the object tidally locked into its orbit around the sun
4. This way we would get the 1g gravity from the sun on the opposite side of the asteroid
5. Solar power should give us most of our power supply
6. Reflecting a small portion of the light could give plants enough to grow and simulate night and day
So the questions are:
1. Could we survive at the distance of 1g from the sun?
2. And if so, how thick would the object need to be in order to protect us from the heat and any radiation from the sun at that distances?
3. Could we keep an object orbiting the sun at that distance for a long period of time?
4. Any other input you think would be nice
Thanks and I hope I explained my crazy thoughts thoroughly enough. | 2019/05/14 | [
"https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/36129",
"https://space.stackexchange.com",
"https://space.stackexchange.com/users/31504/"
] | FWIW, since no one mentioned it, you could construct a shell around the Sun on which a *stationary* observer would experience a downward gravitational acceleration of 1g. This shell would have a radius of about five times that of the Sun (5.28 Rsun), and be well within the orbit of Mercury (0.0669 Lmerc). Of course, I am not saying that this would be a good idea, nor suggesting what materials could survive at this distance. Such a discussion would be more appropriate for the SF StackExchange. | Like other people have said, an orbit will not induce local gravity from the sun, because an orbit is in freefall by definition. What you want is a statite, which uses solar radiation pressure to maintain a fixed distance from the sun. This relies on the sail's [lightness number](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_sail#Sail_parameters), which is the ratio of its maximum acceleration to the sun's gravity, and which normally does not vary with distance. The maximum available acceleration with current technology is 0.26, which is not very good. The theoretical maximum, with some kind of lattice sail, is 22, which is enough. However, that's only the beginning of the troubles you might have.
To get 1g of gravity from the sun, you need to be at about 5.29 solar radii, or 3.68 million kilometers, or 0.025 AUs. At that distance, you receive about 1600 times as much sunlight as you do on Earth. The article on solar sails says that carefully designed sails can maintain safe operating temperatures down to 0.25 AUs.
If you can get a sail working at that altitude, you'd have to protect the station from the sun's light. Using information from designs of probes like the [Parker Space Probe](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parker_Solar_Probe), we could probably keep the temperature of both the sail and the station down by having the sail's incident surface be sharply angled from the sun's light, like a cone, and by keeping the station in the sail's shadow, like a broom balanced on someone's hand. Note that angling the surface reduces how much thrust you can get from it, and the total lightness number of the sail and the station together needs to be greater than 1 even in the worst contingency. Don't forget that the lightness number (which is normally independent of distance) is actually reduced while close to the sun, because it's no longer a point emitter; it takes up about 22° of the sky, so your solar cone will have to be large enough to cover that much from the station's perspective.
Complicating matters is the fact that the station will be in the sun's [corona](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corona), which is much more active in terms of radiation than the solar wind is. It's also well within the distance that the sun forms coronal loops of magnetic and plasma energy, which are the structures that give rise to coronal mass ejections. Those ejections can cause blackouts and wreak havoc on Earth, millions of kilometers away; who knows what will happen to the station if a coronal loop forms on top of it? To protect against such a thing, you need radiation shielding, which is invariably heavy, and goes against the statite being as light as possible.
Then there's the problem of maintenance. How do you repair the solar sail if it tears? You certainly can't be on the sun side of it, or you'll explode like a watermelon in an incinerator. The hole in the screen will let massive amounts of light through, which will sear anything in their rays, and even if you're patching it from the shady side, the reflections from the piece of solar sail you're attaching will burn out the eyes of any astronaut unlucky enough to be working there. Also, if whatever supports hold the station in place relative to the sail fail, you don't have the luxury of it being in orbit; it will fall like an actual rock on actual Earth. If you're lucky and find out about it when it happens, you'll have just enough time for last rites before you fall through the sail and burn.
All in all, there are much easier ways of generating artificial gravity aboard space stations. |
36,129 | Let me break down my thoughts and I have no science background so let me know if this could even be possible.
1. Have the colony on an object like a big asteroid or a similar man made construct.
2. Have the object orbit around the sun at a distance where the sun's gravity is 1g
3. Have the object tidally locked into its orbit around the sun
4. This way we would get the 1g gravity from the sun on the opposite side of the asteroid
5. Solar power should give us most of our power supply
6. Reflecting a small portion of the light could give plants enough to grow and simulate night and day
So the questions are:
1. Could we survive at the distance of 1g from the sun?
2. And if so, how thick would the object need to be in order to protect us from the heat and any radiation from the sun at that distances?
3. Could we keep an object orbiting the sun at that distance for a long period of time?
4. Any other input you think would be nice
Thanks and I hope I explained my crazy thoughts thoroughly enough. | 2019/05/14 | [
"https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/36129",
"https://space.stackexchange.com",
"https://space.stackexchange.com/users/31504/"
] | I'll keep this reasonably short and generic as you don't have a science background. If you want artificial gravity, it isn't based on distance, but on rotation. Then you just need to worry about the size of your habitat and the RPM. [SpinCalc](https://www.artificial-gravity.com/sw/SpinCalc/) is a handy little calculator that can help you figure out what size of habitat, angular velocity, and tangential velocity you need to get whatever gravity you desire. The last numbers I saw for protection against any and all forms of radiation was shielding about six feet thick. Gerard O'Neill's [1974 Physics Today](https://space.nss.org/the-colonization-of-space-gerard-k-o-neill-physics-today-1974/) article goes into a fair amount of technical detail on space habitats in free space. | Unfortunately, that won't work. The 1 gee of force downwards would be canceled out by the 1 g of force upwards that you experience as centripetal force by being in orbit. Even if you let the station/colony/thing free-fall (which it is in orbit), you won't feel gravity until you get close enough the difference in gravity between your station and you is severe enough that you'll be able to feel it. I'm guessing that being that close wouldn't be a great idea. When you're free falling, which is what orbit is, you and the colony are accelerating at equal rates. Because of this, you don't feel any acceleration relative to the colony. If you've ever been in a plane, you feel this when there's turbulence. If the plane makes a big enough drop, you can feel yourself lose contact with the seat and "float" up a little bit. This usually doesn't last long (unless the plane is crashing, in which case you have better things to be doing than reading this). You can sometimes feel this in cars going down hills as well. Anyway, a better solution would be to spin the station. However, if it's spinning, then you need the station to be able to withstand those forces, and the size of station needed increases dramatically. Artificial gravity in space is difficult! |
36,129 | Let me break down my thoughts and I have no science background so let me know if this could even be possible.
1. Have the colony on an object like a big asteroid or a similar man made construct.
2. Have the object orbit around the sun at a distance where the sun's gravity is 1g
3. Have the object tidally locked into its orbit around the sun
4. This way we would get the 1g gravity from the sun on the opposite side of the asteroid
5. Solar power should give us most of our power supply
6. Reflecting a small portion of the light could give plants enough to grow and simulate night and day
So the questions are:
1. Could we survive at the distance of 1g from the sun?
2. And if so, how thick would the object need to be in order to protect us from the heat and any radiation from the sun at that distances?
3. Could we keep an object orbiting the sun at that distance for a long period of time?
4. Any other input you think would be nice
Thanks and I hope I explained my crazy thoughts thoroughly enough. | 2019/05/14 | [
"https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/36129",
"https://space.stackexchange.com",
"https://space.stackexchange.com/users/31504/"
] | Interesting but no, it wouldn't work for the same reason that astronauts in the International Space Station, other space stations, or orbiting shuttles or capsules do not "feel" gravity with respect to their station or capsule.
When you are inside an object which is in orbit, *you are in orbit too!* The Earth pulls on the station with nearly 1 g and it pulls on you the same amount, but you are both orbiting so you move in the same circles. This gives you the experience of weightlessness within the object, be it an asteroid, shuttle, capsule, or space station.
Watch ISS Expedition 22 Commander [Jeffry Williams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeffrey_Williams_(astronaut)) in the video [Demonstration of Acceleration Inside the International Space Station During a Reboost](https://youtu.be/8MR3daaWLXI). As soon as the space station starts to accelerate due to a reboost burn, you can see the camera appear to move *backwards* (towards us).
What's really happening is that the camera is simply remaining in its original orbit and the ISS is accelerating *forwards* (in the same direction we are looking). Both feel nearly 1 g *downwards* from Earth, and that's what keeps both in a circular orbit rather than shooting straight out into space.
About Tidal Forces:
-------------------
[@PeterCordes' answer](https://space.stackexchange.com/a/36135/12102) answer addresses this better than I can, so I'll direct you there to read further.
--- | Unfortunately, that won't work. The 1 gee of force downwards would be canceled out by the 1 g of force upwards that you experience as centripetal force by being in orbit. Even if you let the station/colony/thing free-fall (which it is in orbit), you won't feel gravity until you get close enough the difference in gravity between your station and you is severe enough that you'll be able to feel it. I'm guessing that being that close wouldn't be a great idea. When you're free falling, which is what orbit is, you and the colony are accelerating at equal rates. Because of this, you don't feel any acceleration relative to the colony. If you've ever been in a plane, you feel this when there's turbulence. If the plane makes a big enough drop, you can feel yourself lose contact with the seat and "float" up a little bit. This usually doesn't last long (unless the plane is crashing, in which case you have better things to be doing than reading this). You can sometimes feel this in cars going down hills as well. Anyway, a better solution would be to spin the station. However, if it's spinning, then you need the station to be able to withstand those forces, and the size of station needed increases dramatically. Artificial gravity in space is difficult! |
36,129 | Let me break down my thoughts and I have no science background so let me know if this could even be possible.
1. Have the colony on an object like a big asteroid or a similar man made construct.
2. Have the object orbit around the sun at a distance where the sun's gravity is 1g
3. Have the object tidally locked into its orbit around the sun
4. This way we would get the 1g gravity from the sun on the opposite side of the asteroid
5. Solar power should give us most of our power supply
6. Reflecting a small portion of the light could give plants enough to grow and simulate night and day
So the questions are:
1. Could we survive at the distance of 1g from the sun?
2. And if so, how thick would the object need to be in order to protect us from the heat and any radiation from the sun at that distances?
3. Could we keep an object orbiting the sun at that distance for a long period of time?
4. Any other input you think would be nice
Thanks and I hope I explained my crazy thoughts thoroughly enough. | 2019/05/14 | [
"https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/36129",
"https://space.stackexchange.com",
"https://space.stackexchange.com/users/31504/"
] | Interesting but no, it wouldn't work for the same reason that astronauts in the International Space Station, other space stations, or orbiting shuttles or capsules do not "feel" gravity with respect to their station or capsule.
When you are inside an object which is in orbit, *you are in orbit too!* The Earth pulls on the station with nearly 1 g and it pulls on you the same amount, but you are both orbiting so you move in the same circles. This gives you the experience of weightlessness within the object, be it an asteroid, shuttle, capsule, or space station.
Watch ISS Expedition 22 Commander [Jeffry Williams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeffrey_Williams_(astronaut)) in the video [Demonstration of Acceleration Inside the International Space Station During a Reboost](https://youtu.be/8MR3daaWLXI). As soon as the space station starts to accelerate due to a reboost burn, you can see the camera appear to move *backwards* (towards us).
What's really happening is that the camera is simply remaining in its original orbit and the ISS is accelerating *forwards* (in the same direction we are looking). Both feel nearly 1 g *downwards* from Earth, and that's what keeps both in a circular orbit rather than shooting straight out into space.
About Tidal Forces:
-------------------
[@PeterCordes' answer](https://space.stackexchange.com/a/36135/12102) answer addresses this better than I can, so I'll direct you there to read further.
--- | FWIW, since no one mentioned it, you could construct a shell around the Sun on which a *stationary* observer would experience a downward gravitational acceleration of 1g. This shell would have a radius of about five times that of the Sun (5.28 Rsun), and be well within the orbit of Mercury (0.0669 Lmerc). Of course, I am not saying that this would be a good idea, nor suggesting what materials could survive at this distance. Such a discussion would be more appropriate for the SF StackExchange. |
36,129 | Let me break down my thoughts and I have no science background so let me know if this could even be possible.
1. Have the colony on an object like a big asteroid or a similar man made construct.
2. Have the object orbit around the sun at a distance where the sun's gravity is 1g
3. Have the object tidally locked into its orbit around the sun
4. This way we would get the 1g gravity from the sun on the opposite side of the asteroid
5. Solar power should give us most of our power supply
6. Reflecting a small portion of the light could give plants enough to grow and simulate night and day
So the questions are:
1. Could we survive at the distance of 1g from the sun?
2. And if so, how thick would the object need to be in order to protect us from the heat and any radiation from the sun at that distances?
3. Could we keep an object orbiting the sun at that distance for a long period of time?
4. Any other input you think would be nice
Thanks and I hope I explained my crazy thoughts thoroughly enough. | 2019/05/14 | [
"https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/36129",
"https://space.stackexchange.com",
"https://space.stackexchange.com/users/31504/"
] | I'll keep this reasonably short and generic as you don't have a science background. If you want artificial gravity, it isn't based on distance, but on rotation. Then you just need to worry about the size of your habitat and the RPM. [SpinCalc](https://www.artificial-gravity.com/sw/SpinCalc/) is a handy little calculator that can help you figure out what size of habitat, angular velocity, and tangential velocity you need to get whatever gravity you desire. The last numbers I saw for protection against any and all forms of radiation was shielding about six feet thick. Gerard O'Neill's [1974 Physics Today](https://space.nss.org/the-colonization-of-space-gerard-k-o-neill-physics-today-1974/) article goes into a fair amount of technical detail on space habitats in free space. | It would be far easier to build a million Bernal Spheres or O'neil cylinders than to engineer something to withstand that much heat and radiation. Maybe a shell around a brown dwarf or a gas giant would be easier. Jupiter still produces radiation though. |
24,243 | The Sodium attack is characterised by the move 1.Na3, tending to be followed by the fianchetto of the bishop. This opening has never been played by myself, but I seem to encounter it quite frequently amongst lower rated players. What would be the best way to respond? | 2019/04/17 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/24243",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/18908/"
] | Play whatever.
Two-three moves like that hardly constitute an "opening". It could help if you told us what kind of set up white tries to achieve in the center (e.g. which of the central pawns are moved.)
Generally moves like that are nothing I'd worry about. Playing just normal moves (occupy the center, develop pieces, take it from there....) should be fine. If you have a favourite black opening against say d4 or e4 you might be able to follow it.
You might want to make the somewhat fundamental decision on whether you prefer to block the b2 bishop by playing e5 at some point or to limit the space for the a3 knight by playing d5. | As a longtime proponent of Durkin's Attack, I think the best answer to 1. Na3 is 1... Nh6! |
24,243 | The Sodium attack is characterised by the move 1.Na3, tending to be followed by the fianchetto of the bishop. This opening has never been played by myself, but I seem to encounter it quite frequently amongst lower rated players. What would be the best way to respond? | 2019/04/17 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/24243",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/18908/"
] | Play whatever.
Two-three moves like that hardly constitute an "opening". It could help if you told us what kind of set up white tries to achieve in the center (e.g. which of the central pawns are moved.)
Generally moves like that are nothing I'd worry about. Playing just normal moves (occupy the center, develop pieces, take it from there....) should be fine. If you have a favourite black opening against say d4 or e4 you might be able to follow it.
You might want to make the somewhat fundamental decision on whether you prefer to block the b2 bishop by playing e5 at some point or to limit the space for the a3 knight by playing d5. | What should you play? You play chess!
You can't have a prepared answer for every nonsense move your opponent may play. If you can't easily equalize as Black against **1.Na3**, then your chess skills should be improved somehwere else other than the opening |
24,243 | The Sodium attack is characterised by the move 1.Na3, tending to be followed by the fianchetto of the bishop. This opening has never been played by myself, but I seem to encounter it quite frequently amongst lower rated players. What would be the best way to respond? | 2019/04/17 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/24243",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/18908/"
] | Play whatever.
Two-three moves like that hardly constitute an "opening". It could help if you told us what kind of set up white tries to achieve in the center (e.g. which of the central pawns are moved.)
Generally moves like that are nothing I'd worry about. Playing just normal moves (occupy the center, develop pieces, take it from there....) should be fine. If you have a favourite black opening against say d4 or e4 you might be able to follow it.
You might want to make the somewhat fundamental decision on whether you prefer to block the b2 bishop by playing e5 at some point or to limit the space for the a3 knight by playing d5. | You should think this through a bit. 1.Na3 puts the Knight on a bad square but gives it access to the good square c4. If you play 1...e5 then 2.Nc4
gives White some kind of initiative (2...Nc6 3.e4). If you play 1..d5, you start to make the Knight look silly. It will have to come into play via c2, but could then reach good squares via e3. In the early part of the opening White will need to find a good square for that misplaced piece and your play should include some way of making this difficult. "Whatever" is seldom a good answer. If the player of a wierd opening can make you lazy in your analysis they can point to some success. |
24,243 | The Sodium attack is characterised by the move 1.Na3, tending to be followed by the fianchetto of the bishop. This opening has never been played by myself, but I seem to encounter it quite frequently amongst lower rated players. What would be the best way to respond? | 2019/04/17 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/24243",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/18908/"
] | What should you play? You play chess!
You can't have a prepared answer for every nonsense move your opponent may play. If you can't easily equalize as Black against **1.Na3**, then your chess skills should be improved somehwere else other than the opening | As a longtime proponent of Durkin's Attack, I think the best answer to 1. Na3 is 1... Nh6! |
24,243 | The Sodium attack is characterised by the move 1.Na3, tending to be followed by the fianchetto of the bishop. This opening has never been played by myself, but I seem to encounter it quite frequently amongst lower rated players. What would be the best way to respond? | 2019/04/17 | [
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/24243",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com",
"https://chess.stackexchange.com/users/18908/"
] | What should you play? You play chess!
You can't have a prepared answer for every nonsense move your opponent may play. If you can't easily equalize as Black against **1.Na3**, then your chess skills should be improved somehwere else other than the opening | You should think this through a bit. 1.Na3 puts the Knight on a bad square but gives it access to the good square c4. If you play 1...e5 then 2.Nc4
gives White some kind of initiative (2...Nc6 3.e4). If you play 1..d5, you start to make the Knight look silly. It will have to come into play via c2, but could then reach good squares via e3. In the early part of the opening White will need to find a good square for that misplaced piece and your play should include some way of making this difficult. "Whatever" is seldom a good answer. If the player of a wierd opening can make you lazy in your analysis they can point to some success. |
33,559 | I played with one of the early beta versions of PowerShell V1, but haven't used it since it went "gold". What is the best way to get started using PowerShell?
Which version of PowerShell should I be using (V1.0 vs 2.0 CTP's)? What are you using PowerShell for? Are there any tools that make using PowerShell easier (that is, development environments)? | 2008/08/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/33559",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/708/"
] | Find a problem you need to solve and sit down and do it with PowerShell until it's fixed.
Don't give in and do it another way. Then find another, and another, etc. You'll take WAY longer at the start, but you'll be building knowledge to use going forward. As well as a script library to pull from for the future. One day you'll turn around and realize you now "know" PowerShell.
It's awesome. :) | I think getting into the habit of automating small tasks is a great way to train yourself in PowerShell. For example, writing a throwaway script rather than doing an onerous looking bit of text-processing by hand. It may actually take longer the first few times, but as you get quicker and build up a library of useful snippets that you can chain together you can save yourself a lot of time. |
33,559 | I played with one of the early beta versions of PowerShell V1, but haven't used it since it went "gold". What is the best way to get started using PowerShell?
Which version of PowerShell should I be using (V1.0 vs 2.0 CTP's)? What are you using PowerShell for? Are there any tools that make using PowerShell easier (that is, development environments)? | 2008/08/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/33559",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/708/"
] | I think getting into the habit of automating small tasks is a great way to train yourself in PowerShell. For example, writing a throwaway script rather than doing an onerous looking bit of text-processing by hand. It may actually take longer the first few times, but as you get quicker and build up a library of useful snippets that you can chain together you can save yourself a lot of time. | PowerGUI was a big help in and of itself. The [IntelliSense](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intelli-sense) feature sold me on it, then I found some useful add-ons that were very good.
As far as resources:
Free eBooks:
* *Windows PowerShell Cookbook*
* *Mastering PowerShell*
* *PowerShell A more in-depth look*
Introductory Video:
<http://powergui.org/entry.jspa?externalID=2278&categoryID=361> |
33,559 | I played with one of the early beta versions of PowerShell V1, but haven't used it since it went "gold". What is the best way to get started using PowerShell?
Which version of PowerShell should I be using (V1.0 vs 2.0 CTP's)? What are you using PowerShell for? Are there any tools that make using PowerShell easier (that is, development environments)? | 2008/08/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/33559",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/708/"
] | The [Ars Technica tutorial](http://arstechnica.com/guides/other/msh.ars/2) is a bit dated, but very good to get you up-and-running with PowerShell.
I would also second the suggestion to check out [PowerGUI](http://powergui.org/index.jspa). | I would start it on the fly. What I mean by on-the-fly is that just start to work on your real case and search for help on the web or this site for help if you don't know what to do. For sure, it will very beneficial if you spend some time to learn some basics first. This is what get on to PowerShell.
I have some blog posts on PowerShell, especially 3-serials on a real case I posted recently. Search for davidchuprogramming or go [here](http://davidchuprogramming.blogspot.com/). Good luck with your PowerShell journey. |
33,559 | I played with one of the early beta versions of PowerShell V1, but haven't used it since it went "gold". What is the best way to get started using PowerShell?
Which version of PowerShell should I be using (V1.0 vs 2.0 CTP's)? What are you using PowerShell for? Are there any tools that make using PowerShell easier (that is, development environments)? | 2008/08/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/33559",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/708/"
] | For learning PowerShell, there are a number of great resources
1. Technet Virtual Labs ([Introduction to Windows PowerShell](https://msevents.microsoft.com/CUI/WebCastEventDetails.aspx?culture=en-US&EventID=1032314395&EventCategory=3))
2. PowerShellCommunity.org - Forums, blogs, script repository
3. powershell on irc.freenode.net
==============================
4. PowerShell podcasts - PowerScripting.net and Get-Scripting.blogspot.com
For IDE style environments, you have PowerShell Analyzer (free) and PowerGUI (free), PowerShell Plus (commercial), PrimalScript (commercial), and Admin Script Editor (commerical).
I use PowerShell for everything that I can. Right now, I'm looking at [Psake](http://codebetter.com/blogs/james.kovacs/archive/2008/06/27/introducing-psake.aspx), a PowerShell based build script environment. I use if for managing my Active Directory, Hyper-V, Twitter, some keyboard automation (hosting PowerShell in a winforms app to grab keystrokes), and a ton of other stuff. Another cool project I have to check out is [PSExpect](http://codeplex.com/psexpect) for testing. I also use it for database access - monitoring changes made to rows in a database by applications. It is also integrated in to my network monitoring solution.
I am also looking to use PowerShell as a scripting engine for a project I am working on.
**EDIT**:
If you are just learning PowerShell, I would focus on V1. As you get more comfortable, take a look at the CTP, but too much can change from the CTP to what is actually released as V2 to make that your learning tool.
Version 2 is out and available from XP SP3, Server 2003, Vista, and Server 2008 and in the box for Win7 and Server 2008 R2. What you learned for V1 will still serve you well, but now I would concentrate on V2, as there is a superior feature set.
Good luck! | I just found this free ebook, linked from the Windows PowerShell blog:
[Mastering PowerShell](http://powershell.com/cs/blogs/ebook/) |
33,559 | I played with one of the early beta versions of PowerShell V1, but haven't used it since it went "gold". What is the best way to get started using PowerShell?
Which version of PowerShell should I be using (V1.0 vs 2.0 CTP's)? What are you using PowerShell for? Are there any tools that make using PowerShell easier (that is, development environments)? | 2008/08/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/33559",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/708/"
] | I just found this free ebook, linked from the Windows PowerShell blog:
[Mastering PowerShell](http://powershell.com/cs/blogs/ebook/) | The [Ars Technica tutorial](http://arstechnica.com/guides/other/msh.ars/2) is a bit dated, but very good to get you up-and-running with PowerShell.
I would also second the suggestion to check out [PowerGUI](http://powergui.org/index.jspa). |
33,559 | I played with one of the early beta versions of PowerShell V1, but haven't used it since it went "gold". What is the best way to get started using PowerShell?
Which version of PowerShell should I be using (V1.0 vs 2.0 CTP's)? What are you using PowerShell for? Are there any tools that make using PowerShell easier (that is, development environments)? | 2008/08/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/33559",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/708/"
] | I just found this free ebook, linked from the Windows PowerShell blog:
[Mastering PowerShell](http://powershell.com/cs/blogs/ebook/) | There are [DNRtv](http://www.dnrtv.com)s on PowerShell and PowerGUI. There are also [.NET Rocks!](http://www.dotnetrocks.com) episodes about these tools. |
33,559 | I played with one of the early beta versions of PowerShell V1, but haven't used it since it went "gold". What is the best way to get started using PowerShell?
Which version of PowerShell should I be using (V1.0 vs 2.0 CTP's)? What are you using PowerShell for? Are there any tools that make using PowerShell easier (that is, development environments)? | 2008/08/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/33559",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/708/"
] | I think getting into the habit of automating small tasks is a great way to train yourself in PowerShell. For example, writing a throwaway script rather than doing an onerous looking bit of text-processing by hand. It may actually take longer the first few times, but as you get quicker and build up a library of useful snippets that you can chain together you can save yourself a lot of time. | With regard to the IDE question:
There is a rudimentary IDE which, on my computer at least, is already installed with PowerShell.
It's labeled "WindowsPowerShell ISE", and lets you do things like have several console sessions and several script files open simultaneously... one set of tabs for the scripts, one set for the console sessions, so you can click back and forth as needed. |
33,559 | I played with one of the early beta versions of PowerShell V1, but haven't used it since it went "gold". What is the best way to get started using PowerShell?
Which version of PowerShell should I be using (V1.0 vs 2.0 CTP's)? What are you using PowerShell for? Are there any tools that make using PowerShell easier (that is, development environments)? | 2008/08/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/33559",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/708/"
] | To answer your questions one by one.
Get v2.0 of the CTP. I have used 1.0 and 2.0 and have not found any stability issues with the later version and it has more [functionality](http://blogs.msdn.com/powershell/archive/2007/11/06/what-s-new-in-ctp-of-powershell-2-0.aspx).
The best way to get started is to learn ***three*** basic commands and start playing with it.
**Step 1 - Discover the available commands using Get-Command**
To find all of the "get" commands, for example, you just type:
\*Get-Command get\*\*
To find all of the "set" commands, for example, you just type:
\*Get-Command set\*\*
**Step 2 - Learn how to use each command using Get-Help**
To get basic help about the Get-Command commandlet type:
*Get-Help Get-Command*
To get more information type:
*Get-Help Get-Command -full*
**Step 3 - Discover object properties and methods using Get-Member**
Powershell is an object oriented scripting language. Everything is a fully fledged .Net object with properties and methods.
For example to get the properties and methods on the object emitted by the Get-Process commandlet type:
Get-Process | Get-Member
There are a few other concepts that you need to understand like pipes and regular expressions, but those should already be familiar if you have already done some scripting.
**What am I using it for?**
Two things:
1. Processing log files from a massively distributed grid application. For this it has proven to be incredibly valuable and powerful.
2. Quick testing of .Net classes. | PowerGUI was a big help in and of itself. The [IntelliSense](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intelli-sense) feature sold me on it, then I found some useful add-ons that were very good.
As far as resources:
Free eBooks:
* *Windows PowerShell Cookbook*
* *Mastering PowerShell*
* *PowerShell A more in-depth look*
Introductory Video:
<http://powergui.org/entry.jspa?externalID=2278&categoryID=361> |
33,559 | I played with one of the early beta versions of PowerShell V1, but haven't used it since it went "gold". What is the best way to get started using PowerShell?
Which version of PowerShell should I be using (V1.0 vs 2.0 CTP's)? What are you using PowerShell for? Are there any tools that make using PowerShell easier (that is, development environments)? | 2008/08/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/33559",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/708/"
] | Count me in with a vote for *[PowerShell in Action](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/1932394907)*. There are a bunch of blogs out there as well, check out [//\O//](http://thepowershellguy.com)'s blog, [The Huddled Masses](http://huddledmasses.org/), and [JB's Powershell](http://mspowershell.blogspot.com/) (SQL) as well, they go way back with the shell and have gobs of good scripts & snippets to look at. | The PowerShell CTP is NOT supported in a production environment and a lot will change between now and the time it ships. I suggest following the many PowerShell blogs (don't forget the PowerScripting podcast). There's no shortage of good books on the topic. If you want to spend a little money, SAPIEN Technologies has some self-paced learning material at www.scriptingoutpost.com. I believe Don Jones has done a series of training videos for CBT Nuggets. You can probably find out more at concentratedtechnology.com. |
33,559 | I played with one of the early beta versions of PowerShell V1, but haven't used it since it went "gold". What is the best way to get started using PowerShell?
Which version of PowerShell should I be using (V1.0 vs 2.0 CTP's)? What are you using PowerShell for? Are there any tools that make using PowerShell easier (that is, development environments)? | 2008/08/28 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/33559",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/708/"
] | I just found this free ebook, linked from the Windows PowerShell blog:
[Mastering PowerShell](http://powershell.com/cs/blogs/ebook/) | Find a problem you need to solve and sit down and do it with PowerShell until it's fixed.
Don't give in and do it another way. Then find another, and another, etc. You'll take WAY longer at the start, but you'll be building knowledge to use going forward. As well as a script library to pull from for the future. One day you'll turn around and realize you now "know" PowerShell.
It's awesome. :) |
9,221 | Is there a way in Illustrator to know the exact dimension of shape in pixel and possibly to resize it down to different (but precise) dimension? | 2012/08/30 | [
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/9221",
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com",
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/users/2813/"
] | The simple way is to select the object that you want to resize and then the transform option where you can enter precise dimensions for your object. | Follow the advice in Joonas' answer, but also keep in mind that the pixel dimensions that show up in the control bar will only be accurate when you export at a resolution of 72 ppi. Except when you have a raster image in your Illustrator layout, pixels don't actually exist. What you see on screen is an on-the-fly rendering of the vector art, based on the resolution of your monitor. Those "pixel dimensions" Illustrator gives you are based on its fixed and definite idea that 1 pixel = 1 point. If you export a "500 pixel" wide object at a setting of 300 ppi, the jpeg or png will be over 2,000 pixels wide.
I've not tested how this effects alignment to the pixel grid, but I'm not optimistic that it would necessarily be retained on export at anything other than 72 ppi. Scott may know the answer to that one. |
9,221 | Is there a way in Illustrator to know the exact dimension of shape in pixel and possibly to resize it down to different (but precise) dimension? | 2012/08/30 | [
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/9221",
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com",
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/users/2813/"
] | I just wanted to expand on some of the answers already given here. The Height and Width details in the Properties window make this possible (use Window > Properties) if it isn't displayed in your panel to the right.
Once you use "File > Place" to place the image you'd like to work with, you can use the Direct Selection Tool (A) to select it. With it selected, the Properties window changes to give you the exact dimensions of the image. You'll see this in the "W:" and "H:" sections of the window. (See attached.)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dQeb.png) | Follow the advice in Joonas' answer, but also keep in mind that the pixel dimensions that show up in the control bar will only be accurate when you export at a resolution of 72 ppi. Except when you have a raster image in your Illustrator layout, pixels don't actually exist. What you see on screen is an on-the-fly rendering of the vector art, based on the resolution of your monitor. Those "pixel dimensions" Illustrator gives you are based on its fixed and definite idea that 1 pixel = 1 point. If you export a "500 pixel" wide object at a setting of 300 ppi, the jpeg or png will be over 2,000 pixels wide.
I've not tested how this effects alignment to the pixel grid, but I'm not optimistic that it would necessarily be retained on export at anything other than 72 ppi. Scott may know the answer to that one. |
9,221 | Is there a way in Illustrator to know the exact dimension of shape in pixel and possibly to resize it down to different (but precise) dimension? | 2012/08/30 | [
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/9221",
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com",
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/users/2813/"
] | The simple way is to select the object that you want to resize and then the transform option where you can enter precise dimensions for your object. | Also, Photoshop can give you the image's dimensions and resolution even before you hit Illustrator.
In Photoshop, with the image opened, use Image > Image Size to get a dimension reading to help you when creating a new file in Illustrator. |
9,221 | Is there a way in Illustrator to know the exact dimension of shape in pixel and possibly to resize it down to different (but precise) dimension? | 2012/08/30 | [
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/9221",
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com",
"https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/users/2813/"
] | I just wanted to expand on some of the answers already given here. The Height and Width details in the Properties window make this possible (use Window > Properties) if it isn't displayed in your panel to the right.
Once you use "File > Place" to place the image you'd like to work with, you can use the Direct Selection Tool (A) to select it. With it selected, the Properties window changes to give you the exact dimensions of the image. You'll see this in the "W:" and "H:" sections of the window. (See attached.)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dQeb.png) | Also, Photoshop can give you the image's dimensions and resolution even before you hit Illustrator.
In Photoshop, with the image opened, use Image > Image Size to get a dimension reading to help you when creating a new file in Illustrator. |
16,019 | I have been writing a book, and often times I feel like a lot of the elements in my story are just Freudian slips. I'm not plagiarizing or anything, but sometimes I will go back and read through my drafts, only to remember another story I read/watched with similar elements.
A related problem: How can I take things I've written that are a little to cliche / unoriginal and make them original? Also, how can I avoid this in the future? | 2015/01/27 | [
"https://writers.stackexchange.com/questions/16019",
"https://writers.stackexchange.com",
"https://writers.stackexchange.com/users/12765/"
] | Have you ever read a few words, or heard a description of a plot twist, and thought, "that sounds like something thus-and-so would have come up with"? We all have, and that's because the writers we love have visible hallmarks of their style. Themes recur in their work, and they favor certain kinds of language.
[Wearing your influences on your sleeve](http://clichesite.com/content.asp?which=tip+2351), both with phrasing and plot points, is a common problem with new writers. The only solution is time and experience.
As you continue to write, you'll develop your own styles of plotting and phrasing. Similarities with stories you've already consumed will, in time, melt away. They'll be replaced by your own voice.
When you have several manuscripts under your belt, you'll have the confidence to phrase things in a way that pleases you, not a way you've read before. You'll have the courage to try plot twists that are not established tropes, or at least not as common.
What if it turns out that you're not a new writer, that you've been writing for years? Then I'll suggest that you need to develop confidence in your own abilities. | Embrace what you cannot avoid. All writers are the products of what they read, seasoned with small dashes of what they care about or have experienced in the real world. None of us can escape it and I would venture that there is little reason to try.
Even the authors we love are victim to this recipe. Their writing borrows from the talents of those authors whom they admired and enjoyed.
This is not an act of theft. It is a process of immitation and enhancement. It cannot be theft, because writing is many-faceted and hard. What you write while thinking about another's scenes, is not a plagaristic duplication of their work (unless of course, you copy their work word for word). Your writing will be weaker than theirs in some ways (immitation) and could be stronger than theirs in others (enhancement). It will never be the same.
Quite often, I deliberately steal from the writers I love. I have a bookcase behind me and the top shelf is full of fictions which I have reread so often that their stories are hollow to me now. Each of these novels is full of earmarked pages and scribbled margin notes. They are my pirates booty of stolen treasures, each crafted by a more talented writer than I.
Whenever I get stuck in my writing, (for me that's usually fighting scenes, love scenes and scenes that are emotionally dark) I will sacrifice some of my writing time and just read one of these masterworks. Using my page folds and notes, I can usually find a scene that is similar to what I'm trying to write. Just by reading through the scene, perhaps including a few pages before and after, I remind myself of my favorite techniques for handling this particular writing challenge.
These stories are so old and warn out for me that I don't get caught up in their story telling. Instead, I'm free to pay attention to their word choice, their sentence length and their metre. By drinking in the structure of another author's hand, I'm usually able to find my best voice for the scene I need to write.
This technique has gotten me through those horrible times when without it, nothing I wrote seemed to work at all.
Is it thievery? probably.
Plagerism? no.
Does it help me write my stories in the manner I want the written? definitely.
I wouldn't spend much time worrying about your originality. There is very little opportunity for originality left. Instead, invest that time in reading. Fill your mind with beautifully written scenes and masterfully crafted characters. Then steal everything that is worth taking from them, and pour it into your craft.
Your readers will thank you for it, and if you are lucky, someday they will steal a few scenes from you. |
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