qid int64 1 74.7M | question stringlengths 12 33.8k | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list | response_j stringlengths 0 115k | response_k stringlengths 2 98.3k |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
17,228 | >
> **Possible Duplicate:**
>
> [Is this red star icon malware? How to get rid of it?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/18232/is-this-red-star-icon-malware-how-to-get-rid-of-it)
>
>
>
I get spam alerts about free ipads and typical junk like that on my notification bar when I start my droid. This also happens when I first connect to WIFI on my home router (secured). I use a DROID X. | 2011/12/20 | [
"https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/17228",
"https://android.stackexchange.com",
"https://android.stackexchange.com/users/2934/"
] | Get this [Air Push Detector app](https://market.android.com/details?id=com.brosmike.airpushdetector&feature=search_result#?t=W251bGwsMSwxLDEsImNvbS5icm9zbWlrZS5haXJwdXNoZGV0ZWN0b3IiXQ..) to find out what is creating those notifications.
Then uninstall the app(s) that are creating them. | Adding the option that you can manually opt out of airpush notification by going to <http://m.airpush.com/optout> and click the "manual opt-out" button.
You enter your IMEI (found in the "About Phone" info screen). |
17,228 | >
> **Possible Duplicate:**
>
> [Is this red star icon malware? How to get rid of it?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/18232/is-this-red-star-icon-malware-how-to-get-rid-of-it)
>
>
>
I get spam alerts about free ipads and typical junk like that on my notification bar when I start my droid. This also happens when I first connect to WIFI on my home router (secured). I use a DROID X. | 2011/12/20 | [
"https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/17228",
"https://android.stackexchange.com",
"https://android.stackexchange.com/users/2934/"
] | Get this [Air Push Detector app](https://market.android.com/details?id=com.brosmike.airpushdetector&feature=search_result#?t=W251bGwsMSwxLDEsImNvbS5icm9zbWlrZS5haXJwdXNoZGV0ZWN0b3IiXQ..) to find out what is creating those notifications.
Then uninstall the app(s) that are creating them. | This Problem solved in Android 4.1.
its about hold on the notification and you will get the application information.
you can disable the Application notification. |
17,228 | >
> **Possible Duplicate:**
>
> [Is this red star icon malware? How to get rid of it?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/18232/is-this-red-star-icon-malware-how-to-get-rid-of-it)
>
>
>
I get spam alerts about free ipads and typical junk like that on my notification bar when I start my droid. This also happens when I first connect to WIFI on my home router (secured). I use a DROID X. | 2011/12/20 | [
"https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/17228",
"https://android.stackexchange.com",
"https://android.stackexchange.com/users/2934/"
] | The **AirPush Detector App** is way to go (+1 Bryan).
It very nicely also lets you quickly uninstall the offending app.
Just in case people are looking, there is also an [Airpush Permanent Opt out](https://market.android.com/details?id=com.airpush.optoutapp&hl=en) from AirPush.com;
they also suggest entering your IMEI at their site...
**I have not done either and suggest you do not do such things too.**
In a way this seems like an anti-answer; I suggest you use Bryan's way over AirPush's one to opt out. Hope the Irony is not wasted. | Agree with the Airpush suggestions. One way to find the offending app is to look at the list of running apps and kill them one by one until the notification disappears. Note, when this happened to me, it was from a First Aid app that I've since uninstalled. |
17,228 | >
> **Possible Duplicate:**
>
> [Is this red star icon malware? How to get rid of it?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/18232/is-this-red-star-icon-malware-how-to-get-rid-of-it)
>
>
>
I get spam alerts about free ipads and typical junk like that on my notification bar when I start my droid. This also happens when I first connect to WIFI on my home router (secured). I use a DROID X. | 2011/12/20 | [
"https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/17228",
"https://android.stackexchange.com",
"https://android.stackexchange.com/users/2934/"
] | The **AirPush Detector App** is way to go (+1 Bryan).
It very nicely also lets you quickly uninstall the offending app.
Just in case people are looking, there is also an [Airpush Permanent Opt out](https://market.android.com/details?id=com.airpush.optoutapp&hl=en) from AirPush.com;
they also suggest entering your IMEI at their site...
**I have not done either and suggest you do not do such things too.**
In a way this seems like an anti-answer; I suggest you use Bryan's way over AirPush's one to opt out. Hope the Irony is not wasted. | Adding the option that you can manually opt out of airpush notification by going to <http://m.airpush.com/optout> and click the "manual opt-out" button.
You enter your IMEI (found in the "About Phone" info screen). |
17,228 | >
> **Possible Duplicate:**
>
> [Is this red star icon malware? How to get rid of it?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/18232/is-this-red-star-icon-malware-how-to-get-rid-of-it)
>
>
>
I get spam alerts about free ipads and typical junk like that on my notification bar when I start my droid. This also happens when I first connect to WIFI on my home router (secured). I use a DROID X. | 2011/12/20 | [
"https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/17228",
"https://android.stackexchange.com",
"https://android.stackexchange.com/users/2934/"
] | The **AirPush Detector App** is way to go (+1 Bryan).
It very nicely also lets you quickly uninstall the offending app.
Just in case people are looking, there is also an [Airpush Permanent Opt out](https://market.android.com/details?id=com.airpush.optoutapp&hl=en) from AirPush.com;
they also suggest entering your IMEI at their site...
**I have not done either and suggest you do not do such things too.**
In a way this seems like an anti-answer; I suggest you use Bryan's way over AirPush's one to opt out. Hope the Irony is not wasted. | This Problem solved in Android 4.1.
its about hold on the notification and you will get the application information.
you can disable the Application notification. |
12,378,406 | Are mono libraries fully reference-able from MS.NET?
What about the inverse?
If "sorta", then which ones, and what are the limitations? | 2012/09/11 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/12378406",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/860532/"
] | Yes, Mono compiler generates binaries which are compatible with the .NET framework and viceversa.
The only limitation AFAIK is managed C++:
1. Mono compiler doesn't have a compiler for this.
2. MS.NET compiler for this language generates mixed-mode assemblies that cannot be run in Mono.
(More info about managed C++ in [this other stackoverflow question](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/183377/does-mono-net-support-and-compile-c-cli).) | The file format is identical (for fully managed libraries, see answer from knocte), so in theory Mono libraries are fully reference-able from .NET (and vice versa).
In practice it depends on the content of the libraries. If you write Linux-only code in a library, it will of course not run on .NET. This is also the only potential issue, if you write platform independent code, you can use either Mono's mcs compiler or Microsoft's csc compiler and use the resulting library on either platform without problems. |
316,859 | Anyone know what series of connector this is?
Have tried to look at TE/AMP, Molex, Amphenol etc, but no luck.
Pitch about 1.5mm, but could be 1.25mm, 1.27mm or 0.05" (didn't have a calliper at hand).
On these boards the connector is SMT, no TH pins at all.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dxx1c.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3JZts.jpg) | 2017/07/11 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/316859",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/155608/"
] | It depends on how accurate you need this to be. Here is a simple concept:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNzMD.gif)
D1 and D2 provide the MIN function. The voltage at the top of the diodes is the minimum of Vin1 and Vin2, plus a diode drop. It should be obvious how to expand this to any number of inputs to take the minimum of.
D3 tries to compensate for the diode drop, so that Vout is the minimum of all the inputs with the diode drops cancelled out. If within a few 10s of mV is OK, then this might do.
Vhigh and Vlow are voltages you have to supply. Vhigh must be a bit higher than any input voltage of interest, and Vlow a bit lower.
The impedance of the input voltages need to low enough to overcome R1. The output impedance at Vout is higher due to R2 needing to be high to not interfere with the signal.
That's the basic concept.
The next step is to realize that BJTs can be thought of as diodes with gain. Here is the same concept carried out with BJTs using their gain to advantage:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/17FZX.gif)
Look carefully and you'll see its really the same thing, using the B-E junctions of the transistors in place of the diodes in the previous circuit. The advantage is that the input signals don't have to supply anywhere near as much current. The B-E diodes still do the MIN function, but most of the current comes from the negative supply.
The gain is used the other way around so that the B-E junction of Q3 loads the signal much less. Due to the gain of the transistors, this circuit has much lower output impedance while having higher input impedance.
One drawback of using the B-E diode of BJTs this way is that the max input range is narrower. This is because the reverse voltage characteristics of the B-E junction is usually fairly low. If you're only doing this over a 5 V range, then there should be no problem. Of course, always check the datasheet of whatever transistor you plan to use. Choose ones with high B-E reverse voltage capability if you want a wider input voltage range. | In addition to the many good answers provided already. You can diode-or the feedback path of a set of buffer amplifiers. The concept is applied heavily in power electronics, allowing multiple feedback loops to overdrive the output (typically with priority to lowering output power).
A sample schematic is the following,
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2Nr1.png)
Here there are two op-amp buffers with there outputs diode or'd. Neither opamp can push the output high, only pull the output low. So the minimum voltage overdrives the output and the result is the Min(A,B).
A sample simulation,
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bdpDr.png) |
115,260 | I know that expensive instruments can be used to determine the color of an object, but is there a poor man's way to determine color using filters? By "determine color" I mean know the relative proportions of primary colors. In other words, using filters to know that the proportions of red, blue and green are 5, 3, and 1, for example, or maybe something using the [natural color system](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_Color_System). | 2020/03/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/115260",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/56382/"
] | This sign is used when you focus for infrared light (using IR film or filter). It can be in form of red dot or line. This is need because the IR light wave length is longer than visible light and you need to change the focal plane accordingly.
Here is photo from Wikipedia where you can see why you need to change the focal plane:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oE8zL.png) | All lenses suffer from chromatic aberration. Its a fact that each color of light comes to a focus at different distances from the lens. If your camera lens is simple as to design, your images would be marred by a terrible rainbow fringe surrounding the outline of objects. This lens is not simple;it has been designed to mitigate chromatic aberration. This is accomplished by pairing a convex and concave lens. The convex one has a shorter focal length than needed. The concave one lengthens the overall focal length to specification. Each has opposite chromatic aberrations, thus they nearly cancel this menace. Thus, red, green and blue come to a focus at nearly the same distance downstream from the lens. Sorry to report that infrared is not corrected; it comes to a focus much further downstream. If you are imaging under IR light, you must apply a focus position correction. The red point on the lens barrel is a revised index point. In other words, you manually shift and set the distance to this index location. |
115,260 | I know that expensive instruments can be used to determine the color of an object, but is there a poor man's way to determine color using filters? By "determine color" I mean know the relative proportions of primary colors. In other words, using filters to know that the proportions of red, blue and green are 5, 3, and 1, for example, or maybe something using the [natural color system](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_Color_System). | 2020/03/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/115260",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/56382/"
] | So far the answers have not correctly explained just *how* to use this red mark. They talk about correcting the focus point by moving the focus setting. But they do not explain the need to make the original focus setting *without* the IR filter in place, and then replacing the filter and moving the distance number of the original focus point to the IR focus line. Reasons are at least two-fold: 1) an IR filter is very dark and difficult to focus through in the first place, and 2) if you do manage to focus through the filter, you are still using visible light to do the focusing since you cannot see IR light. So, you focus using visible light and then move the setting and the filter to accommodate IR. | This sign is used when you focus for infrared light (using IR film or filter). It can be in form of red dot or line. This is need because the IR light wave length is longer than visible light and you need to change the focal plane accordingly.
Here is photo from Wikipedia where you can see why you need to change the focal plane:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oE8zL.png) |
115,260 | I know that expensive instruments can be used to determine the color of an object, but is there a poor man's way to determine color using filters? By "determine color" I mean know the relative proportions of primary colors. In other words, using filters to know that the proportions of red, blue and green are 5, 3, and 1, for example, or maybe something using the [natural color system](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_Color_System). | 2020/03/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/115260",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/56382/"
] | This sign is used when you focus for infrared light (using IR film or filter). It can be in form of red dot or line. This is need because the IR light wave length is longer than visible light and you need to change the focal plane accordingly.
Here is photo from Wikipedia where you can see why you need to change the focal plane:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oE8zL.png) | That's used for Infrared focusing when using infrared film and red filter. Since infrared focuses at a different point than visible light you'd first focus normally then move the distance indicated at the normal focus point (red line at 5.6) to the IR focus point. |
115,260 | I know that expensive instruments can be used to determine the color of an object, but is there a poor man's way to determine color using filters? By "determine color" I mean know the relative proportions of primary colors. In other words, using filters to know that the proportions of red, blue and green are 5, 3, and 1, for example, or maybe something using the [natural color system](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_Color_System). | 2020/03/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/115260",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/56382/"
] | So far the answers have not correctly explained just *how* to use this red mark. They talk about correcting the focus point by moving the focus setting. But they do not explain the need to make the original focus setting *without* the IR filter in place, and then replacing the filter and moving the distance number of the original focus point to the IR focus line. Reasons are at least two-fold: 1) an IR filter is very dark and difficult to focus through in the first place, and 2) if you do manage to focus through the filter, you are still using visible light to do the focusing since you cannot see IR light. So, you focus using visible light and then move the setting and the filter to accommodate IR. | All lenses suffer from chromatic aberration. Its a fact that each color of light comes to a focus at different distances from the lens. If your camera lens is simple as to design, your images would be marred by a terrible rainbow fringe surrounding the outline of objects. This lens is not simple;it has been designed to mitigate chromatic aberration. This is accomplished by pairing a convex and concave lens. The convex one has a shorter focal length than needed. The concave one lengthens the overall focal length to specification. Each has opposite chromatic aberrations, thus they nearly cancel this menace. Thus, red, green and blue come to a focus at nearly the same distance downstream from the lens. Sorry to report that infrared is not corrected; it comes to a focus much further downstream. If you are imaging under IR light, you must apply a focus position correction. The red point on the lens barrel is a revised index point. In other words, you manually shift and set the distance to this index location. |
115,260 | I know that expensive instruments can be used to determine the color of an object, but is there a poor man's way to determine color using filters? By "determine color" I mean know the relative proportions of primary colors. In other words, using filters to know that the proportions of red, blue and green are 5, 3, and 1, for example, or maybe something using the [natural color system](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_Color_System). | 2020/03/25 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/115260",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/56382/"
] | So far the answers have not correctly explained just *how* to use this red mark. They talk about correcting the focus point by moving the focus setting. But they do not explain the need to make the original focus setting *without* the IR filter in place, and then replacing the filter and moving the distance number of the original focus point to the IR focus line. Reasons are at least two-fold: 1) an IR filter is very dark and difficult to focus through in the first place, and 2) if you do manage to focus through the filter, you are still using visible light to do the focusing since you cannot see IR light. So, you focus using visible light and then move the setting and the filter to accommodate IR. | That's used for Infrared focusing when using infrared film and red filter. Since infrared focuses at a different point than visible light you'd first focus normally then move the distance indicated at the normal focus point (red line at 5.6) to the IR focus point. |
67,826 | I am from a biomedical background. In the biomedical background, it is very easy to get a research article for free. If you search in PubMed, Scopus, or Web of Knowledge, you will find lots of papers thats you can read in full text. However, when i tried to find papers in the field of law, I found that all you had was Westlaw, Lexis Library, and Lawtel Heinonline. These are not free, you have to pay for them. Sometimes, you can find the odd abstact. Is there no free search database? I understand that all the papers will not be free; in the biological feild you will get a lot free, but some papers you will need to pay for.
To help in ansewring the question, I am not part of university, and only study UK law. | 2021/07/18 | [
"https://law.stackexchange.com/questions/67826",
"https://law.stackexchange.com",
"https://law.stackexchange.com/users/37087/"
] | Unfortunately, law lags behind STEM when it comes to open access research.
* [BAILII](https://www.bailii.org) and [CommonLII](https://www.commonlii.org) are free legal research databases of material relevant to the UK, but they are sadly quite lacking in secondary material. On the other hand, the most authoritative source of UK law is the Supreme Court, and all of its judgments are searchable on BAILII.
* The [ICLR](https://www.iclr.co.uk/)’s search engine is publicly accessible. Although you will not be able to download full PDFs of the authorised law reports, you can read the index cards (including catchwords and links to related cases), including for many judgments which are not accessible on BAILII.
* [AustLII](https://www.austlii.edu.au) has a more extensive collection of Australian secondary material (and Australian judgments), which often refer to or summarise UK law.
* Finally, as suggested in the other answer, there’s [Google Scholar](https://scholar.google.com), as well as generic web search engines. These often turn up research published directly by the [UK Parliament](https://www.parliament.uk/business/publications/research/) or other government authorities, as well as abstracts and occasionally PDFs from commercial publishers’ law journals. | I don't know of any such database for law journals, but quite a lot of law schools post PDFs of their journal articles for free online.
If you're just looking for legal opinions, Google Scholar has quite a bit available. |
399,582 | I am not sure that word 'Automated' is a correct choice for the following:
>
> XYZ is now configured for Automated deployment by Jenkins on the QA environment. That is on a single click of button Jenkins will deploy the latest code on QA server.
>
>
> | 2017/07/12 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/399582",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/246299/"
] | *"XYZ is now configured for **a**utomated deployment by Jenkins **to** the QA environment."*
Automated is the correct word though.
**Edit**: Distinction. If the Jenkins builds were actually on the QA server you could say **on**. But they are not (obviously). Therefore the build is being deployed from dev, or a build server (if you are doing it right), **to** QA. Hope this helps. | That is on a single click of button Jenkins will deploy the latest code on QA server.
might read better as
"That is, on a single click of a button Jenkins can deploy the latest code onto the QA server."
or
"With a single click, Jenkins can deploy the latest code onto the QA server" |
286,789 | I have already written bare metal software and used FreeRTOS on embedded devices. But I would like to understand why some people choose to use embedded linux or a kernel on an embedded device?
In what cases would it e.g. be unavoidable that you need to use embedded linux or a kernel on an embedded device. How would one come to the conclusion that he needs one of those two things? | 2017/02/15 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/286789",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/82390/"
] | Generally you wouldn't use a operating system on something that is performing true microcontroller tasks. In such cases, the OS gets in the way more than it helps. OSs are about virtualizing hardware resources and providing abstractions like threads and processes. These things are of little use when the hardware you are driving is easy to control directly, there is no issue of portability, and isn't the kind of thing OSs virtualize for you anyway. General purpose OSs also don't handle real time requirements well, or at all, and that is something often important in true controller applications.
The reason you do sometimes see operating systems on high end microcontrollers is because those processors are really being used as embedded computers, not really controllers. When you want to connect to a standard keyboard, mouse, drive a standard display, connect to a network, be a USB host, store files in a arbitrary tree structure, or do any of the other things OSs are intended to help with, then a OS can be helpful. | Linux on microcontrollers? Only using versions with no MMU (Memory Management Unit) - ex. uC Linux. Cortex-M (M - microcontroller) has MPU (Memory Protection Unit). Cortex-A (A - application) has MMU. Usually microprocessors did not incorporate ordinary peripherals found in common microcontrollers. Although very fast, run both the operating system and the user applications. They do not handle very well I/O pins and protocols that demand low **latency**, but are ideal for handling images, audio and transfer of megabytes of data in high **throughput** (USB, Ethernet, etc.). A Raspberry-PI is good for watching a movie, but it is not suitable for implememting FOC control of a three-phase motor, for example. For reasons similar to those already discussed, it is not uncommon to find solutions involving a board with two processors: A Cortex-A running Linux and a Cortex-M in charge of critical tasks (example UDOO board). The BeagleBone is slightly different when included in the same chip, dedicated control and timing peripherals. |
25,334 | I am using a Arduino Uno 3 for line follower robot. However when I power the Arduino Uno, the L led is turned on and is never turned off. After a bit of searching I found out that the L LED is connected to pin 13. So I set the pin 13 to low but still the led is on. Is there a problem with the arduino? Or there's something that I am unaware about? (Amongst a lot of other things that I don't know.) | 2016/06/16 | [
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/25334",
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com",
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com/users/23082/"
] | Its possible its the Power LED you are looking at - that will always be on.
Simplest test is to load up the Blink Example that's included in the Arduino IDE - and the LED should blink once a second. That will show you if your Pin13 LED is working ok. | An LED lights up when in forward bias. That is, when the voltage on the anode is greater then that on the cathode. If the anode is connected to an Arduino GPIO pin (and the cathode is connected to ground and an appropriate limiting resistor is used), the LED will light up when the pin has positive voltage. This is when it is set to 1 in the code. If the cathode is connected to an Arduino GPIO pin (and the anode is connected to positive voltage and an appropriate limiting resistor is used), the LED will light up when the pin has zero voltage. This is when it is set to 0 in the code. |
25,334 | I am using a Arduino Uno 3 for line follower robot. However when I power the Arduino Uno, the L led is turned on and is never turned off. After a bit of searching I found out that the L LED is connected to pin 13. So I set the pin 13 to low but still the led is on. Is there a problem with the arduino? Or there's something that I am unaware about? (Amongst a lot of other things that I don't know.) | 2016/06/16 | [
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/25334",
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com",
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com/users/23082/"
] | Now first check IC on your arduino UNO. if it is atmega328p, set the board to arduino nano in the software and set the processor th atmega328p. that makes it work. :) | An LED lights up when in forward bias. That is, when the voltage on the anode is greater then that on the cathode. If the anode is connected to an Arduino GPIO pin (and the cathode is connected to ground and an appropriate limiting resistor is used), the LED will light up when the pin has positive voltage. This is when it is set to 1 in the code. If the cathode is connected to an Arduino GPIO pin (and the anode is connected to positive voltage and an appropriate limiting resistor is used), the LED will light up when the pin has zero voltage. This is when it is set to 0 in the code. |
25,334 | I am using a Arduino Uno 3 for line follower robot. However when I power the Arduino Uno, the L led is turned on and is never turned off. After a bit of searching I found out that the L LED is connected to pin 13. So I set the pin 13 to low but still the led is on. Is there a problem with the arduino? Or there's something that I am unaware about? (Amongst a lot of other things that I don't know.) | 2016/06/16 | [
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/25334",
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com",
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com/users/23082/"
] | I guess the arduino is burnt cus it happens with me in the same way. The usb port of my PC is writing device not recognize, and the atmega328p on the arduino temperature is getting high. To save my time I bought another new one I think that should help. | An LED lights up when in forward bias. That is, when the voltage on the anode is greater then that on the cathode. If the anode is connected to an Arduino GPIO pin (and the cathode is connected to ground and an appropriate limiting resistor is used), the LED will light up when the pin has positive voltage. This is when it is set to 1 in the code. If the cathode is connected to an Arduino GPIO pin (and the anode is connected to positive voltage and an appropriate limiting resistor is used), the LED will light up when the pin has zero voltage. This is when it is set to 0 in the code. |
25,334 | I am using a Arduino Uno 3 for line follower robot. However when I power the Arduino Uno, the L led is turned on and is never turned off. After a bit of searching I found out that the L LED is connected to pin 13. So I set the pin 13 to low but still the led is on. Is there a problem with the arduino? Or there's something that I am unaware about? (Amongst a lot of other things that I don't know.) | 2016/06/16 | [
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/25334",
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com",
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com/users/23082/"
] | Its possible its the Power LED you are looking at - that will always be on.
Simplest test is to load up the Blink Example that's included in the Arduino IDE - and the LED should blink once a second. That will show you if your Pin13 LED is working ok. | I guess the arduino is burnt cus it happens with me in the same way. The usb port of my PC is writing device not recognize, and the atmega328p on the arduino temperature is getting high. To save my time I bought another new one I think that should help. |
25,334 | I am using a Arduino Uno 3 for line follower robot. However when I power the Arduino Uno, the L led is turned on and is never turned off. After a bit of searching I found out that the L LED is connected to pin 13. So I set the pin 13 to low but still the led is on. Is there a problem with the arduino? Or there's something that I am unaware about? (Amongst a lot of other things that I don't know.) | 2016/06/16 | [
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/25334",
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com",
"https://arduino.stackexchange.com/users/23082/"
] | Now first check IC on your arduino UNO. if it is atmega328p, set the board to arduino nano in the software and set the processor th atmega328p. that makes it work. :) | I guess the arduino is burnt cus it happens with me in the same way. The usb port of my PC is writing device not recognize, and the atmega328p on the arduino temperature is getting high. To save my time I bought another new one I think that should help. |
77,002 | Did a survey of the commercial products available in the local market, which are broadly classified as 'Automatic Water Level Controller' or 'Automatic Pump Controllers', and found that all of them use a float-switches.
This got me wondering as to why the commercial products do not use 'electrical conductivity' of water as a test, to determine water level in the reservoir. If one uses something like 12VDC of periodic pulse to check for conduction via the electrodes at various levels, there should be no worry of electrical shock. So why don't the commercial systems use this, extremely inexpensive solution ? What is it that I might be missing ?
***EDIT***
To add a bit of context, what surprised me in my survey was that the price of spare float-switches was about 20% of the price of entire system (including 2 float switches). The cost of installation is about 2x the system price. And every time the float-switch is to be changed there's some labour cost as well (unless the unit is under an Annual Maintenance Contract, which cost 15-20% of the unit price). This is in a rather price sensitive market (India). Which is why the super simple "conductivity" test, seemed like a very cost-effective solution. | 2013/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/77002",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/26621/"
] | Well ... float switches are simple and reliable. Having said that, it is not quite as simple as detecting a DC voltage. Using DC, the electrodes would quickly be corroded (damage due to electrolysis).
The sensing circuit needs to use AC. There used to be a nice IC made by National that would do this, the LM1830N; but as far as I know it is has been obsolete for some time. The circuit is pretty simple to do yourself. Basically an oscillator is connected to a series resistor and capacitor which is connected to an electrode in the fluid. That electrode also connects to a comparator to sense the AC. A second electrode connects to GND (circuit common). When a fluid is present, the conduction between the electrodes causes the AC signal on the oscillator electrode to be attenuated. The resistor sets the sensitivity.
Here is a circuit I built a few years ago using a PIC12F683 :
[simulate this circuit](/plugins/schematics?image=http%3a%2f%2fi.stack.imgur.com%2fMfvwv.png) – Schematic created using [CircuitLab](https://www.circuitlab.com/)
This circuit was for a dual-level fluid sensor that would turn on a valve when the fluid would drop below the FLUID\_LO sensor, and turn off when the fluid reached the FLUID\_HI sensor.
I'm afraid I'm not free to publish the source code, but I will describe the functionality:
SENSOR\_CLK is a 50% duty-cycle square-wave output. The frequency is not critical. I used appx 8Khz.
The AN0 and AN1 inputs to the PIC12F683 are inputs to the A/D converter. The conversions are performed when SENSOR\_CLK is high. If the voltage is sensed below 3.1V, the corresponding electrode is considered to be immersed in the fluid.
FLUID\_HI and FLUID\_LO are wires positioned such that they are immersed in the fluid when at the appropriate level. FLUID\_COM may either be connected to a metal container holding the fluid, or be connected to a wire in the fluid and below the level of FLUID\_LO.
When the wires are immersed in the fluid, the square-wave detected by AN0 and AN1 is attenuated and has a net DC component of about 2.5V. Resistors R1 and R2 may be changed to smaller values if a less sensitive circuit is desired. The 3.1V detection threshold (in firmware) may also be changed to adjust sensitivity, but it must be greater than 2.5V.
While I used the A/D converter in the microcontroller, other detection methods may be used. Some microcontrollers have built-in voltage comparators that may be used. It may also be possible to use general-purpose I/O to detect the immersion when SENSOR\_CLK is low if the Vin high and low thresholds are well below 2.5V.
I chose to sense the voltages between the resistors and capacitors instead of the voltages on the electrodes because I felt that the internal clamping diode to VSS in the microcontroller might cause a net DC voltage on the electrodes. | [Water is a poor conductor](http://www.lenntech.com/applications/ultrapure/conductivity/water-conductivity.htm). If there are salts dissolved in the water, then it's a better conductor, but these salts can then also build up on the sensor as the water evaporates from it, which interferes with the sensor's accuracy. It's also difficult to positively tell the difference between a sensor that is submerged, and one that was recently submerged but is still wet.
Float valves don't suffer from these problems. They work on very pure water or even fluids that aren't water at all. They provide a very positive indication of "submerged" or "not submerged" that is independent of the purity of the fluid being monitored or evaporation. While they introduce mechanical components which may fail, they are widely available and easily serviced by people who may not have advanced electrical knowledge. |
77,002 | Did a survey of the commercial products available in the local market, which are broadly classified as 'Automatic Water Level Controller' or 'Automatic Pump Controllers', and found that all of them use a float-switches.
This got me wondering as to why the commercial products do not use 'electrical conductivity' of water as a test, to determine water level in the reservoir. If one uses something like 12VDC of periodic pulse to check for conduction via the electrodes at various levels, there should be no worry of electrical shock. So why don't the commercial systems use this, extremely inexpensive solution ? What is it that I might be missing ?
***EDIT***
To add a bit of context, what surprised me in my survey was that the price of spare float-switches was about 20% of the price of entire system (including 2 float switches). The cost of installation is about 2x the system price. And every time the float-switch is to be changed there's some labour cost as well (unless the unit is under an Annual Maintenance Contract, which cost 15-20% of the unit price). This is in a rather price sensitive market (India). Which is why the super simple "conductivity" test, seemed like a very cost-effective solution. | 2013/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/77002",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/26621/"
] | [Water is a poor conductor](http://www.lenntech.com/applications/ultrapure/conductivity/water-conductivity.htm). If there are salts dissolved in the water, then it's a better conductor, but these salts can then also build up on the sensor as the water evaporates from it, which interferes with the sensor's accuracy. It's also difficult to positively tell the difference between a sensor that is submerged, and one that was recently submerged but is still wet.
Float valves don't suffer from these problems. They work on very pure water or even fluids that aren't water at all. They provide a very positive indication of "submerged" or "not submerged" that is independent of the purity of the fluid being monitored or evaporation. While they introduce mechanical components which may fail, they are widely available and easily serviced by people who may not have advanced electrical knowledge. | I realize this is a year old but I was all over looking for answers for an old cooling tower and had this open when I found a place called Waterline Controls that sells 'electronic sensors' (plus software driven controllers that look trick).
They also have good information about all types of water sensors, pros and cons, etc.
They said "Poor water quality can cause the probes to foul, deteriorate or pit, needing to be replaced after one to two years. “Throwaway Technology” with a short life cycle..." ('read more' link goes to www.waterlinecontrols.com/level-sensors/conductivity-probe/).
Their stuff is totally different and well worth looking into if you need a better soulution. They have some major installs listed too, like at google and a nuclear plant, so it certainly works well.
Anyway, hope that helps. |
77,002 | Did a survey of the commercial products available in the local market, which are broadly classified as 'Automatic Water Level Controller' or 'Automatic Pump Controllers', and found that all of them use a float-switches.
This got me wondering as to why the commercial products do not use 'electrical conductivity' of water as a test, to determine water level in the reservoir. If one uses something like 12VDC of periodic pulse to check for conduction via the electrodes at various levels, there should be no worry of electrical shock. So why don't the commercial systems use this, extremely inexpensive solution ? What is it that I might be missing ?
***EDIT***
To add a bit of context, what surprised me in my survey was that the price of spare float-switches was about 20% of the price of entire system (including 2 float switches). The cost of installation is about 2x the system price. And every time the float-switch is to be changed there's some labour cost as well (unless the unit is under an Annual Maintenance Contract, which cost 15-20% of the unit price). This is in a rather price sensitive market (India). Which is why the super simple "conductivity" test, seemed like a very cost-effective solution. | 2013/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/77002",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/26621/"
] | Well ... float switches are simple and reliable. Having said that, it is not quite as simple as detecting a DC voltage. Using DC, the electrodes would quickly be corroded (damage due to electrolysis).
The sensing circuit needs to use AC. There used to be a nice IC made by National that would do this, the LM1830N; but as far as I know it is has been obsolete for some time. The circuit is pretty simple to do yourself. Basically an oscillator is connected to a series resistor and capacitor which is connected to an electrode in the fluid. That electrode also connects to a comparator to sense the AC. A second electrode connects to GND (circuit common). When a fluid is present, the conduction between the electrodes causes the AC signal on the oscillator electrode to be attenuated. The resistor sets the sensitivity.
Here is a circuit I built a few years ago using a PIC12F683 :
[simulate this circuit](/plugins/schematics?image=http%3a%2f%2fi.stack.imgur.com%2fMfvwv.png) – Schematic created using [CircuitLab](https://www.circuitlab.com/)
This circuit was for a dual-level fluid sensor that would turn on a valve when the fluid would drop below the FLUID\_LO sensor, and turn off when the fluid reached the FLUID\_HI sensor.
I'm afraid I'm not free to publish the source code, but I will describe the functionality:
SENSOR\_CLK is a 50% duty-cycle square-wave output. The frequency is not critical. I used appx 8Khz.
The AN0 and AN1 inputs to the PIC12F683 are inputs to the A/D converter. The conversions are performed when SENSOR\_CLK is high. If the voltage is sensed below 3.1V, the corresponding electrode is considered to be immersed in the fluid.
FLUID\_HI and FLUID\_LO are wires positioned such that they are immersed in the fluid when at the appropriate level. FLUID\_COM may either be connected to a metal container holding the fluid, or be connected to a wire in the fluid and below the level of FLUID\_LO.
When the wires are immersed in the fluid, the square-wave detected by AN0 and AN1 is attenuated and has a net DC component of about 2.5V. Resistors R1 and R2 may be changed to smaller values if a less sensitive circuit is desired. The 3.1V detection threshold (in firmware) may also be changed to adjust sensitivity, but it must be greater than 2.5V.
While I used the A/D converter in the microcontroller, other detection methods may be used. Some microcontrollers have built-in voltage comparators that may be used. It may also be possible to use general-purpose I/O to detect the immersion when SENSOR\_CLK is low if the Vin high and low thresholds are well below 2.5V.
I chose to sense the voltages between the resistors and capacitors instead of the voltages on the electrodes because I felt that the internal clamping diode to VSS in the microcontroller might cause a net DC voltage on the electrodes. | I realize this is a year old but I was all over looking for answers for an old cooling tower and had this open when I found a place called Waterline Controls that sells 'electronic sensors' (plus software driven controllers that look trick).
They also have good information about all types of water sensors, pros and cons, etc.
They said "Poor water quality can cause the probes to foul, deteriorate or pit, needing to be replaced after one to two years. “Throwaway Technology” with a short life cycle..." ('read more' link goes to www.waterlinecontrols.com/level-sensors/conductivity-probe/).
Their stuff is totally different and well worth looking into if you need a better soulution. They have some major installs listed too, like at google and a nuclear plant, so it certainly works well.
Anyway, hope that helps. |
37,118 | I want to access unspent data of a specific bitcoin address.
I am trying this command
bitcoin-cli -regtest listunspent "some bitcoin address"
But I am always getting an empty list. I am using local bitcoind server on windows 7.
What should I do or use any function for getting desired output ? | 2015/04/27 | [
"https://bitcoin.stackexchange.com/questions/37118",
"https://bitcoin.stackexchange.com",
"https://bitcoin.stackexchange.com/users/25002/"
] | In order to get the list unspent of a specific bitcoin address( not belongs to your wallet), you must first import the address to wallet using **[importaddress](https://bitcoin.org/en/developer-reference#importaddress)**
This RPC does not require the private key of that address. Note that this will cause the program to rescan the entire blockchain, which will take several minutes.
now you can use the listunspent call to get the UTXO.
Edit: use rescan : true if you are importing already existing address | Other options, beyond what Nick mentioned, are to either use the toshi.io API:
[toshi.io - API - utxo's for address](https://toshi.io/docs/#get-address-unspent-outputs)
Or run your own toshi node:
[toshi.io](https://toshi.io/) |
37,118 | I want to access unspent data of a specific bitcoin address.
I am trying this command
bitcoin-cli -regtest listunspent "some bitcoin address"
But I am always getting an empty list. I am using local bitcoind server on windows 7.
What should I do or use any function for getting desired output ? | 2015/04/27 | [
"https://bitcoin.stackexchange.com/questions/37118",
"https://bitcoin.stackexchange.com",
"https://bitcoin.stackexchange.com/users/25002/"
] | In order to get the list unspent of a specific bitcoin address( not belongs to your wallet), you must first import the address to wallet using **[importaddress](https://bitcoin.org/en/developer-reference#importaddress)**
This RPC does not require the private key of that address. Note that this will cause the program to rescan the entire blockchain, which will take several minutes.
now you can use the listunspent call to get the UTXO.
Edit: use rescan : true if you are importing already existing address | I have written a program that allows you to search for any address whether it belongs to your wallet or not, in Python3.
Here is the github link:
<https://github.com/ORP967/Bitcoin_Core_RPC_par_address>
Let me know if you guys have any improvements that can be made to it. |
2,498 | What alloys can be used to make a metal pencil like [this one](http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2010/09/neither-pen-nor-pencil-write-endlessly-in-metal/)?
 | 2012/11/03 | [
"https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/2498",
"https://chemistry.stackexchange.com",
"https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/users/804/"
] | "Silverpoint" nibs have a long history in art and significantly predate modern drawing tools such as the lead pencil (made of graphite and clay but possibly called *lead* as lead metal was one possible material in metal pens). Silverpoint writing and drawing doesn't smudge or fade and many examples have survived almost unchanged over hundreds of years.
There is a useful site with a good history of the original artistic uses of silverpoint pens [here](http://www.silverpointweb.com). According to this site a wide variety of metals will work. Historically which was used depended on status:
>
> Wealthy and royal persons who needed to keep records (business inventories and so forth) employed these scribes, and the stylus material served as notice to all of the status of the employer - **gold** and **silver** for the upper classes, **lead** for somewhat lesser beings.
>
>
>
It seems tht many metals will work. The dictionary of Art is quoted as saying:
>
> Metalpoint. Drawing instrument (the forerunner of the pencil) made from a small, pointed metal tip, usually of lead, silver, copper or gold, encased in a wooden holder.
>
>
>
The current preferred metal for artistic use seems to be fairly pure silver.
>
> Best results are obtained from a thicker point that is "pure" silver, or ".999 fine." This is much softer than sterling, so it will deposit more metal on the drawing surface
>
>
>
The [silverpoint.com](http://www.silverpointweb.com/catalog.html) web site sells ready made points of both silver and gold.
It isn't obvious what metal or alloy is used in the pens mentioned in the Wired story, but it isn't silver. It apparently contains at least some lead as the pencils come with warnings not to let children chew them! | I actually make metalpoint pencils and use pure lead for the writing material. It's obviously a bit toxic (because lead), though I'm experimenting with making custom lead alloys (possibly with a percentage of bismuth, as I have some laying around) to reduce the overall lead content. In terms of utility, however, pure lead leaves a reasonably dark and easy-to-make mark. |
2,498 | What alloys can be used to make a metal pencil like [this one](http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2010/09/neither-pen-nor-pencil-write-endlessly-in-metal/)?
 | 2012/11/03 | [
"https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/2498",
"https://chemistry.stackexchange.com",
"https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/users/804/"
] | "Silverpoint" nibs have a long history in art and significantly predate modern drawing tools such as the lead pencil (made of graphite and clay but possibly called *lead* as lead metal was one possible material in metal pens). Silverpoint writing and drawing doesn't smudge or fade and many examples have survived almost unchanged over hundreds of years.
There is a useful site with a good history of the original artistic uses of silverpoint pens [here](http://www.silverpointweb.com). According to this site a wide variety of metals will work. Historically which was used depended on status:
>
> Wealthy and royal persons who needed to keep records (business inventories and so forth) employed these scribes, and the stylus material served as notice to all of the status of the employer - **gold** and **silver** for the upper classes, **lead** for somewhat lesser beings.
>
>
>
It seems tht many metals will work. The dictionary of Art is quoted as saying:
>
> Metalpoint. Drawing instrument (the forerunner of the pencil) made from a small, pointed metal tip, usually of lead, silver, copper or gold, encased in a wooden holder.
>
>
>
The current preferred metal for artistic use seems to be fairly pure silver.
>
> Best results are obtained from a thicker point that is "pure" silver, or ".999 fine." This is much softer than sterling, so it will deposit more metal on the drawing surface
>
>
>
The [silverpoint.com](http://www.silverpointweb.com/catalog.html) web site sells ready made points of both silver and gold.
It isn't obvious what metal or alloy is used in the pens mentioned in the Wired story, but it isn't silver. It apparently contains at least some lead as the pencils come with warnings not to let children chew them! | It could be similar to "Lead or Aluminum Metalpoint". For instance, I use the 2.4 mm and 1/8 inch "soft aluminum" rods obtained in the US from Hobby Lobby in a pack with two of both sizes (about $4 USD). The smaller rods are placed in my drafting technical pencil holder (Koh-I-Noor, 2 mm still works). I use an old wooden brush handle drilled to 1/8 inch diameter hole, for the larger rods. A strong gray/black line is obtained when using "Rite-in-the-Rain All-Weather Sketchbook" with no further "silverpoint" ground treatment. My "Lead solder' (Home Depot/Lowes) stylus works on regular paper with none of the usual titanium white ground treatment. |
2,498 | What alloys can be used to make a metal pencil like [this one](http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2010/09/neither-pen-nor-pencil-write-endlessly-in-metal/)?
 | 2012/11/03 | [
"https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/2498",
"https://chemistry.stackexchange.com",
"https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/users/804/"
] | I actually make metalpoint pencils and use pure lead for the writing material. It's obviously a bit toxic (because lead), though I'm experimenting with making custom lead alloys (possibly with a percentage of bismuth, as I have some laying around) to reduce the overall lead content. In terms of utility, however, pure lead leaves a reasonably dark and easy-to-make mark. | It could be similar to "Lead or Aluminum Metalpoint". For instance, I use the 2.4 mm and 1/8 inch "soft aluminum" rods obtained in the US from Hobby Lobby in a pack with two of both sizes (about $4 USD). The smaller rods are placed in my drafting technical pencil holder (Koh-I-Noor, 2 mm still works). I use an old wooden brush handle drilled to 1/8 inch diameter hole, for the larger rods. A strong gray/black line is obtained when using "Rite-in-the-Rain All-Weather Sketchbook" with no further "silverpoint" ground treatment. My "Lead solder' (Home Depot/Lowes) stylus works on regular paper with none of the usual titanium white ground treatment. |
37,814,727 | I'm currently trying to refactor a C# MVC application in spite of having limited experience of the pattern. Reading around the subject, I seem to constantly blunder in to dimetric opposite opinions on best practice.
My biggest problem is that there's way too much stuff in the controllers. They work, but they're full of business logic which is hard to restructure and to test. Models are mostly just thin DTOs. So, where do I start putting this useful business logic in order to rework it and test it?
A lot of people say it should [go in the model](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/18563229/mvc-where-to-put-business-logic). But then you get some people saying it should [go in the controller after all](https://softwareengineering.stackexchange.com/questions/176639/why-put-the-business-logic-in-the-model-what-happens-when-i-have-multiple-types). And other people telling you that the principle of the model [containing data and NOTHING ELSE](http://www.tomdalling.com/blog/software-design/model-view-controller-explained/) is fundamental to the pattern.
Then you get people telling you it should go in a fourth type of class, a [ViewModel](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/11064316/what-is-viewmodel-in-mvc). Now I've worked on MVVM in WPF and I'm familiar with this paradigm. But adding it to MVC just seems to replicate a lot of work that's done elsewhere, for no better reason than blindly following a pattern dictate.
Yet another option is to put it in some sort of helper class. This seems a common suggestion, which I won't link. But doing that seems a wasteful use of another class which has no point to exist outside of providing functions to a single controller. And that would seem a fundamental violation of OOP principles.
Is there a definitive "correct" answer to this? If so, why is there so much confusion? If not, how do you go about gauging the best solution in this morass of opinion? | 2016/06/14 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/37814727",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/271907/"
] | To me, the M in MVC stands for view model, it contains the data needed for the view to do its work, so that the view can remain as dumb as possible.
This view model is created in the controller and passed to the view, but as you said, the controller logic should be kept small - so no business logic here.
This business logic belongs in services - which could be remote services exposed with WCF, or a web API, or just a class library with methods in your web site.
So, summarized:
1. the controller calls the services to get data in the form of a model. Business logic is inside these services, the model returned is just POCO.
2. the controller creates a view model based on the received model, which contains the properties in the format which is best for the view.
3. the controller passes the view model to the view, which uses the view model to build itself. | On the project I am currently working on, we have kept our Controllers reasonably free of Business Logic as we have separated them out into Units of Work. I believe this pattern was adopted to allow us to swap the Units of Work in and out depending on the client etc.
Where as the previous project I worked on was all in the controllers and broken down into smaller shared helpers where necessary.
I don't think there is strictly a correct way or an incorrect way. The majority of the time it seems to be down to personal preference of the developer. |
37,814,727 | I'm currently trying to refactor a C# MVC application in spite of having limited experience of the pattern. Reading around the subject, I seem to constantly blunder in to dimetric opposite opinions on best practice.
My biggest problem is that there's way too much stuff in the controllers. They work, but they're full of business logic which is hard to restructure and to test. Models are mostly just thin DTOs. So, where do I start putting this useful business logic in order to rework it and test it?
A lot of people say it should [go in the model](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/18563229/mvc-where-to-put-business-logic). But then you get some people saying it should [go in the controller after all](https://softwareengineering.stackexchange.com/questions/176639/why-put-the-business-logic-in-the-model-what-happens-when-i-have-multiple-types). And other people telling you that the principle of the model [containing data and NOTHING ELSE](http://www.tomdalling.com/blog/software-design/model-view-controller-explained/) is fundamental to the pattern.
Then you get people telling you it should go in a fourth type of class, a [ViewModel](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/11064316/what-is-viewmodel-in-mvc). Now I've worked on MVVM in WPF and I'm familiar with this paradigm. But adding it to MVC just seems to replicate a lot of work that's done elsewhere, for no better reason than blindly following a pattern dictate.
Yet another option is to put it in some sort of helper class. This seems a common suggestion, which I won't link. But doing that seems a wasteful use of another class which has no point to exist outside of providing functions to a single controller. And that would seem a fundamental violation of OOP principles.
Is there a definitive "correct" answer to this? If so, why is there so much confusion? If not, how do you go about gauging the best solution in this morass of opinion? | 2016/06/14 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/37814727",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/271907/"
] | I don't believe there is a definitive "correct" answer. I believe it's all in preference and how complex your data manipulation is.
At my company we use helper classes/a service for the purpose of organization. Our controllers do not contain any functionality except for taking in a model, manipulating it, and spitting it back to the view.
We have a vast amount of data manipulation, and to do that in the controller would be a horrible mess.
Most people would agree that no logic should be in the controller. The difference is where that logic should be. For my company, it would have been ridiculous to put it in the models themselves because of the sheer volume of manipulation that takes place. If there isn't a large amount of manipulation I would put it in the models. | On the project I am currently working on, we have kept our Controllers reasonably free of Business Logic as we have separated them out into Units of Work. I believe this pattern was adopted to allow us to swap the Units of Work in and out depending on the client etc.
Where as the previous project I worked on was all in the controllers and broken down into smaller shared helpers where necessary.
I don't think there is strictly a correct way or an incorrect way. The majority of the time it seems to be down to personal preference of the developer. |
46,275 | When I do frequency analysis on my feedback controlled system and the controller is really tightly tuned, I get a frequency response that looks like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0wY6w.png)
Blue is excitation signal and green is system output signal. Does this mean that my system has nonlinear behavior? Or this just a condition that would be visible when hitting a zero or a pole?
Smaller frequencies work fine and produce a sine wave output that is easy to interpret. It is higher frequencies that end up looking like this.
Since I intend to use this to derive a bode plot, I'm also curious how do I interpret this data and what is the actual magnitude and phase on this plot for this frequency? It seems to me like it is fairly random. How would I go about sweeping frequencies and making a bode plot when many frequencies in this region look like this? FFT maybe on both signals? But how exactly? | 2018/01/10 | [
"https://dsp.stackexchange.com/questions/46275",
"https://dsp.stackexchange.com",
"https://dsp.stackexchange.com/users/33062/"
] | You are probably still seeing other frequency components from the transient of the system. I assume you that you simulated your system for a fixed number of periods of the excitation signal. If this is the case then it would also explain why you only see the transient at high frequencies. This would be because a fixed number of high frequency periods take less time than the same number of low frequency periods. Therefore there is not enough time for the transient to die out for the high frequency excitation. | Have you tried using synchronous demodulation to extract the phase and amplitude response for the various frequencies? You would reject the transient and other non-linearities this way. Also, you could flush the transient samples (not always possible).
Edit :
say your stimulus is x = A \* cos (wt).
Then your output to this stimulus is y = B\*cos(wt + phi) (after transient)..
create a signal called x\_quad = A\*sin(wt)
Now with x, y and x\_quad you can find B and phi. The gain at the specific frequency is B/A
now for the math
z = x*y = A*B\*cos(wt)*cos(wt + phi) = A*B/2\* (cos(2\*wt) + cos(phi))
z\_quad = x\_quad*y = A*B\*sin(wt) \* cos(wt + phi) = A\*B/2 \* (sin(2\*wt) + sin(-phi))
Now, average z over 1 cycle or more for better precision in order to cancel the cos(2\*wt) term.
z\_mean = A\*B/2 \* cos(phi)
z\_quad\_mean = -A\*B/2\*sin(phi)
then phase = Atan2(-z\_quad\_mean, z\_mean)
B/A = 2/A\*sqrt(z\_mean^2 + z\_quad\_mean^2) = gain
Make sure to review the math, might have made a mistake or 2. But you get the main idea |
1,469 | I am happy with my BaoFeng UV-5R Pro but the local UHV VHF repeater and simplex reception is terrible, even for contacts less than 50 kilometers. I assume that it's because the rubber-ducky antenna on it is terrible. What can I replace it with that is readily available commercially, costs less than $100 US, will give me a better handheld reception experience, and still maintain excellent portability (for my case, let's say that means less than 2.5 pounds antenna weight, less than 3 feet tall)?
I don't know much about dBi gain, but I have seen antennas claiming to be "144Mhz 2.15dBi 430Mhz 3.0dBi", I'm still learning so I don't know how to interpret that information. | 2014/02/17 | [
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/questions/1469",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/users/643/"
] | For base operations, I am rather partial to the [Super Discone](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00AR09ATA) for transceiving. I paid $69.95 for it brand new.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJi8P.jpg)
It is very wideband.
Note that it has a SO-239 connector, so you will want good coax with PL-259 connectors.
Then you need a [pigtail adapter](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00COKNKS8) to connect it to the radio.
[](https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2900/47f02/products/1376/images/2384/ARS_CBL_839__92034.1334623048.200.200.jpg?c=2)
It is obviously not as effective as a tuned yagi for point-to-point, but if you are looking for an omnidirectional, flexible base station antenna, this is the one that I chose. And I'm glad I did. | I use a sainsonic 36cm VHF/UHF antenna. It's light (unlike the Nagoya 40cm I had before) and has perfect reception for my needs. I can hear stations up to 80-100km away if I'm high enough (altitude, not R&R). People shouldn't knock the rubber ducky, it's perfect for critical CAMPING comms. A backup antenna, essentially. |
1,469 | I am happy with my BaoFeng UV-5R Pro but the local UHV VHF repeater and simplex reception is terrible, even for contacts less than 50 kilometers. I assume that it's because the rubber-ducky antenna on it is terrible. What can I replace it with that is readily available commercially, costs less than $100 US, will give me a better handheld reception experience, and still maintain excellent portability (for my case, let's say that means less than 2.5 pounds antenna weight, less than 3 feet tall)?
I don't know much about dBi gain, but I have seen antennas claiming to be "144Mhz 2.15dBi 430Mhz 3.0dBi", I'm still learning so I don't know how to interpret that information. | 2014/02/17 | [
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/questions/1469",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/users/643/"
] | Every time I purchase a cheap HT such as the Baofeng you mention I also spend another $10 or so on an antenna, as the stock antenna is noticeably worse than even an inexpensive antenna like the [Nagoya NA-771](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00BY3XN7E).
There are still better antennas than this, but there are always tradeoffs. The stock antenna is one third to half the length of the NA-771, which is useful in certain situations. There are vastly better, but more expensive, antennas that mount on and off the radio.
What you need will depend largely on what you're going to use the radio for. Given that you've chosen an inexpensive, low power (even for handheld) radio, though, I suspect you're really looking to improve things as much as possible while still retaining the portability and use as a handheld, without a lot of cost.
So the above antenna is my current recommendation in this situation. | I use a sainsonic 36cm VHF/UHF antenna. It's light (unlike the Nagoya 40cm I had before) and has perfect reception for my needs. I can hear stations up to 80-100km away if I'm high enough (altitude, not R&R). People shouldn't knock the rubber ducky, it's perfect for critical CAMPING comms. A backup antenna, essentially. |
1,469 | I am happy with my BaoFeng UV-5R Pro but the local UHV VHF repeater and simplex reception is terrible, even for contacts less than 50 kilometers. I assume that it's because the rubber-ducky antenna on it is terrible. What can I replace it with that is readily available commercially, costs less than $100 US, will give me a better handheld reception experience, and still maintain excellent portability (for my case, let's say that means less than 2.5 pounds antenna weight, less than 3 feet tall)?
I don't know much about dBi gain, but I have seen antennas claiming to be "144Mhz 2.15dBi 430Mhz 3.0dBi", I'm still learning so I don't know how to interpret that information. | 2014/02/17 | [
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/questions/1469",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/users/643/"
] | Yes you can try Nagoya with good results. I was thinking you can also try a slim jim antenna found on ebay. This antenna has high marks with unbelievible performance. | I use a sainsonic 36cm VHF/UHF antenna. It's light (unlike the Nagoya 40cm I had before) and has perfect reception for my needs. I can hear stations up to 80-100km away if I'm high enough (altitude, not R&R). People shouldn't knock the rubber ducky, it's perfect for critical CAMPING comms. A backup antenna, essentially. |
1,469 | I am happy with my BaoFeng UV-5R Pro but the local UHV VHF repeater and simplex reception is terrible, even for contacts less than 50 kilometers. I assume that it's because the rubber-ducky antenna on it is terrible. What can I replace it with that is readily available commercially, costs less than $100 US, will give me a better handheld reception experience, and still maintain excellent portability (for my case, let's say that means less than 2.5 pounds antenna weight, less than 3 feet tall)?
I don't know much about dBi gain, but I have seen antennas claiming to be "144Mhz 2.15dBi 430Mhz 3.0dBi", I'm still learning so I don't know how to interpret that information. | 2014/02/17 | [
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/questions/1469",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/users/643/"
] | Yes you can try Nagoya with good results. I was thinking you can also try a slim jim antenna found on ebay. This antenna has high marks with unbelievible performance. | I have had no luck with alternative screw-on antennas, even the 771 seems to have less range than the included rubber duck. Magnetic mounts seem to be better but they are for cars or to use the HT as a table radio, not to carry around as HT. |
1,469 | I am happy with my BaoFeng UV-5R Pro but the local UHV VHF repeater and simplex reception is terrible, even for contacts less than 50 kilometers. I assume that it's because the rubber-ducky antenna on it is terrible. What can I replace it with that is readily available commercially, costs less than $100 US, will give me a better handheld reception experience, and still maintain excellent portability (for my case, let's say that means less than 2.5 pounds antenna weight, less than 3 feet tall)?
I don't know much about dBi gain, but I have seen antennas claiming to be "144Mhz 2.15dBi 430Mhz 3.0dBi", I'm still learning so I don't know how to interpret that information. | 2014/02/17 | [
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/questions/1469",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/users/643/"
] | The antenna included with the BaoFeng is notably bad, even for a rubber duck. To answer your question of what would be better: *anything* would be better. You'd have to switch to a dummy load to do worse.
Whatever antenna you do select, it need not be anything specific to your radio. Any antenna suitable for whatever bands you wish to operate will be fine. The only gotcha with BaoFeng radios is they have a male SMA connector on the radio where every other radio made has a female connector. They are popular enough now you can find antennas with this connector, or you can find adapters.
Quality aside, rubber duck antennas trade size for efficiency. It generally true that the smaller an antenna is made, the less efficient it is. A full-size whip will be a quarter wavelength, so approximately half a meter long for the 2 meter band. There are designs with degrees of shortening anywhere between that and a rubber duck, so get the longest one that isn't "too big" for your preferences to maximize efficiency. | The Quansheng TG-UV2 antenna had about 1-1.5 dB gain on VHF with no difference on UHF under controlled conditions. Of course use maximum output and keep the antenna vertical. SUrecom and Nagoya antenna were marginal and with mixed results none were better than < 1.0db gain. |
1,469 | I am happy with my BaoFeng UV-5R Pro but the local UHV VHF repeater and simplex reception is terrible, even for contacts less than 50 kilometers. I assume that it's because the rubber-ducky antenna on it is terrible. What can I replace it with that is readily available commercially, costs less than $100 US, will give me a better handheld reception experience, and still maintain excellent portability (for my case, let's say that means less than 2.5 pounds antenna weight, less than 3 feet tall)?
I don't know much about dBi gain, but I have seen antennas claiming to be "144Mhz 2.15dBi 430Mhz 3.0dBi", I'm still learning so I don't know how to interpret that information. | 2014/02/17 | [
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/questions/1469",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/users/643/"
] | The antenna included with the BaoFeng is notably bad, even for a rubber duck. To answer your question of what would be better: *anything* would be better. You'd have to switch to a dummy load to do worse.
Whatever antenna you do select, it need not be anything specific to your radio. Any antenna suitable for whatever bands you wish to operate will be fine. The only gotcha with BaoFeng radios is they have a male SMA connector on the radio where every other radio made has a female connector. They are popular enough now you can find antennas with this connector, or you can find adapters.
Quality aside, rubber duck antennas trade size for efficiency. It generally true that the smaller an antenna is made, the less efficient it is. A full-size whip will be a quarter wavelength, so approximately half a meter long for the 2 meter band. There are designs with degrees of shortening anywhere between that and a rubber duck, so get the longest one that isn't "too big" for your preferences to maximize efficiency. | I use a sainsonic 36cm VHF/UHF antenna. It's light (unlike the Nagoya 40cm I had before) and has perfect reception for my needs. I can hear stations up to 80-100km away if I'm high enough (altitude, not R&R). People shouldn't knock the rubber ducky, it's perfect for critical CAMPING comms. A backup antenna, essentially. |
1,469 | I am happy with my BaoFeng UV-5R Pro but the local UHV VHF repeater and simplex reception is terrible, even for contacts less than 50 kilometers. I assume that it's because the rubber-ducky antenna on it is terrible. What can I replace it with that is readily available commercially, costs less than $100 US, will give me a better handheld reception experience, and still maintain excellent portability (for my case, let's say that means less than 2.5 pounds antenna weight, less than 3 feet tall)?
I don't know much about dBi gain, but I have seen antennas claiming to be "144Mhz 2.15dBi 430Mhz 3.0dBi", I'm still learning so I don't know how to interpret that information. | 2014/02/17 | [
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/questions/1469",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com",
"https://ham.stackexchange.com/users/643/"
] | The antenna included with the BaoFeng is notably bad, even for a rubber duck. To answer your question of what would be better: *anything* would be better. You'd have to switch to a dummy load to do worse.
Whatever antenna you do select, it need not be anything specific to your radio. Any antenna suitable for whatever bands you wish to operate will be fine. The only gotcha with BaoFeng radios is they have a male SMA connector on the radio where every other radio made has a female connector. They are popular enough now you can find antennas with this connector, or you can find adapters.
Quality aside, rubber duck antennas trade size for efficiency. It generally true that the smaller an antenna is made, the less efficient it is. A full-size whip will be a quarter wavelength, so approximately half a meter long for the 2 meter band. There are designs with degrees of shortening anywhere between that and a rubber duck, so get the longest one that isn't "too big" for your preferences to maximize efficiency. | Yes you can try Nagoya with good results. I was thinking you can also try a slim jim antenna found on ebay. This antenna has high marks with unbelievible performance. |
6,186 | My Zortrax M200 has a skipping extruder motor, I’ve checked the seating of all connections and 3 different (electronic ribbon) cables and still can’t fix the issue. The gear is clean and have tried fresh filament.
* Does anyone have any possible thoughts on why this happens?
The extruded motor will move in the desired direction and then skip back.
Loading the filament is fine. Tried new nozzles, blockages checked, etc. | 2018/06/17 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6186",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11110/"
] | Every time I've had an extruder "skip", it was actually because some condition was causing excessive back-pressure. Either the hot end isn't hot enough, the nozzle is too close to the bed, or something has clogged the nozzle.
If there is a "skipping" noise, then this is almost certainly the problem. When a stepper can not advance, the magnetic field will continue to "step". After the rotor is behind the steps by 180 degrees of field phase (which might be only a fraction of a degree os stepper motor shaft rotation), the rotor will snap back to re-align with the magnetic field. The sudden movement of the rotor and the release of compression on the filament often makes a loud clicking or thumping noise. If you can see the gear, it will jump backward and then rotate slowly forward before jumping backward again.
To see if it is the drivers, try extruding with no filament, or if you can, try moving filament through the extruder. If it doesn't move at all, or doesn't move under light drag, it may be the driver, the wiring, or perhaps the motor. | 1. Check the pins on the motor. Are they bent? If yes - straighten them out with a screw driver.
2. This could be a stepper driver problem. If it is then bad luck. Zortrax hard solders their stepper drivers onto their control board (this sucks and is a pure monetization related move by them).
This results in you having to get a whole new set of connector cables and or new control boards every time something goes wrong.
Ask for a control board replacement with new connector cables, if your machine is still under warranty it should be free of charge.
Switch to different or cheaper machines like Wanhaos or Ultimakers if you want the same ease of use and cheap part replacement. |
165,822 | Suppose I have to run 300 feet across an open field from one area of full cover to another. The entire time I'm in the open, I will be taking incoming ranged attacks, and I want to minimize the number of attacks that hit me as I cross the field. My speed is 30. I have 2 options:
1. Take the **dodge** action each round and move 30 feet per round for 10 rounds, thus facing 10 rounds of attacks at disadvantage.
2. Take the **dash** action and move 60 feet each round for 5 rounds, thus facing 5 rounds of attacks without disadvantage.
Which of these 2 options results in fewer attacks hitting me on average? If the answer depends on the roll needed to hit, when is it better to use one or the other? Alternatively, is there a more complex solution using only "basic" actions (i.e. only actions available to an unarmed commoner) that does better than either of the above?
For simplicity, you can assume there is 1 incoming attack per round, although the result should be the same for any number of attacks. You can also assume that all attacks have the same modifier. You can also assume that the attacks are always made within the short range of the weapon, so there is no disadvantage from long range. (For this last point, imagine the 300-foot run is parallel to a wall lined with enough archers to cover the entire path in their short range, or more simply, just imagine a single longbow archer with the sharpshooter feat.) I am not overly concerned with the effect of critical hits, but if you want to take them into account, you can assume that a critical hit deals double the damage of a regular hit (even though this is not true in general). | 2020/03/04 | [
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/165822",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/40516/"
] | ### There's a third option - and it's potentially much better
The other answers have dealt capably with your 1 vs. 2 scenario already. To recap what's been established elsewhere:
1. **Dodge** every round - every attack against you has disadvantage
2. **Dash** every round - suffer half as many attacks against you
Which is better? It depends on the enemy's likelihood 'to hit'.
**But there's another way, a third option that's normally superior to both of these choices** - because it allows you to combine both of these benefits together, giving your opponent fewer attacks and disadvantage to being hit simultaneously.
It's pretty simple too, take the Dash action each round but fall prone at the end of every turn, then stand up and Dash again at the beginning of your next turn. Let me explain:
Falling [prone](https://www.dndbeyond.com/sources/basic-rules/combat#BeingProne) is free:
>
> You can drop prone without using any of your speed
>
>
>
While a creature is [prone](https://www.dndbeyond.com/sources/basic-rules/appendix-a-conditions#Prone):
>
> [Unless] the attacker is within 5 feet of the creature [...] the attack roll has disadvantage.
>
>
>
Standing up again from [prone](https://www.dndbeyond.com/sources/basic-rules/combat#BeingProne):
>
> costs an amount of movement equal to half your speed
>
>
>
When you take the [Dash](https://www.dndbeyond.com/sources/basic-rules/combat#Dash) action, you:
>
> gain extra movement for the current turn. The increase equals your speed, after applying any modifiers.
>
>
>
So, putting all of that together:
* On your first turn you take the Dash action and move 60 feet into the open.
* Then drop prone as a free action.
* On every subsequent turn you take the Dash action to double your available movement (based on your speed) from 30 ft to 60 ft.
* Standing up costs you 15 ft of movement (which is half your speed - crucially not half your movement).
* You can then run the remaining 45 ft before throwing your self prone again as a free action.
This approach gives you the best of both worlds.
**Moving 60 ft in the first round and 45 ft every subsequent round will allow you to clear the field in only 6 rounds** (by the 7th round, you'll have moved 330 ft and be safe and dry) - just one more than Dashing without falling prone. **And, every single one of those six attacks against you will have had disadvantage.**
As a minor point (credit to [Michael](https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/24240/michael)), in a pretty small minority of cases, Dashing and remaining upright will still be the superior tactic. If the archer is practically guaranteed to hit you, as a consequence of your low AC compared to their high attack bonus, then making them roll their attacks at disadvantage will be of no real benefit to you, and you'll just want to get out of there as fast as you possibly can.
---
**What if the attacker readies their attack to trigger once you stand up again?**
**This is still a win-win for you** - with thanks to the commenters ([Ryan C. Thompson](https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/40516/ryan-c-thompson) and [Anketam](https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/40206/anketam)).
* If the attacker has extra attack or multi-attack [they'll lose these additional attacks by choosing to Ready](https://rpg.stackexchange.com/q/91374/40921).
* If they choose a trigger of 'fire when you stand up again', you could just Dash and crawl for thirty feet and they'll have lost the attack entirely.
* Maybe they get wise to this and next time they choose a trigger of more simply 'fire when you move again' assuming that your first move will be to stand up, but allowing them an attack even if you don't. In that case simply take the Dash action and crawl forward until their triggered attack comes at you, with disadvantage, and then stand up and run afterwards, assuming it makes mathematical sense of your remaining movement to do so. | Heroes should dash, monsters should dodge.
------------------------------------------
>
> * Take the dodge action each round and move 30 feet per round for 10 rounds, thus facing 10 rounds of attacks at disadvantage.
> * Take the dash action and move 60 feet each round for 5 rounds, thus facing 5 rounds of attacks without disadvantage.
>
>
> Which of these 2 options results in fewer attacks hitting me on average?
>
>
>
Other answers have already covered the "on average" part of this question, but minimising the average isn't always the best option. The spread also matters.
Scenario #1: the attackers need 11 to hit, and I have enough HP to survive at most four hits. (For simplicity's sake, ignoring variable damage.)
At 11 TH, chance of hitting is 25% with disadvantage, 50% without. So the average number of attacks hitting will be 10\*0.25 = 5\*0.5 = 2.5. If we only care about the average, the two options are equally good.
But what we really care about here is "do we survive?" and for that, the average doesn't tell the whole story.
If we dash (5 attacks at 50% chance to hit), there's about a 3% chance (exactly 1/32) that the archers will get lucky enough to score five hits and take us down.
But if we dodge (10 attacks at 25%), that rises to about 8%. Same average, but less consistent, means a greater chance of getting a fluke big enough to down us.
So in this case, we want to dash, to protect ourselves against the possibility of unusually bad luck.
Scenario #2: exactly the same as #1, except that this time we're already injured so we can only survive one hit.
In this case, the average outcome is very bad. But dodging results in about a 24% chance of making it, compared to only 19% for dashing. So we want to dodge, to improve the chances of the fluke we need to survive.
In a real game, all sorts of other complications apply, and the numbers will depend on the specific scenario. But in the normal course of play, encounters are balanced so that PCs will survive "average" outcomes and their enemies will not.
It then follows that as a PC, reduced randomness (spread/variance) is usually a good thing.
If the averages are very different, you're generally best off picking the option that gives the best average. But if you have two options that look similar on averages, pick the one that has less room for flukes - in this case, dashing.
OTOH, if you're an antagonist, or a PC having a very bad day, the average is not your friend. Now you're looking for a fluke, and for that you're best off increasing the spread - i.e. dodging. |
85,945 | Recently I got some used lenses most of which have some white specks on the barrel next to the focus and aperture rings. These lenses came from different sources and weren't stored in a same place. Maybe it's an amateur question, but I've never seen this before. I'm worried about mold or fungus.
Is it because of humid weather, or is it normal?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aStOr.jpg) | 2017/01/04 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/85945",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/59668/"
] | The first thing you must realize is that what you are seeing on your monitor is *not* ["the" raw file](https://photo.stackexchange.com/a/105103/15871). What you are seeing is an 8-bit demosaiced preview conversion of the raw file created by Photoshop (or whatever other raw conversion application you are using) based on the current settings. It's just one of many possible interpretations of the full data in the raw image file. You may even be seeing the embedded jpeg preview in the raw file that was produced by the camera at the time you took the photo if that is what you have selected in the *Photoshop* preferences section!
How the data from the raw file is selectively rendered is partially determined by the choices you have made in *Photoshop's* preferences section - both in the speed vs. quality rendering settings and in the default profile (WB, contrast, exposure, rtc.) applied to the raw file when it is opened. You can opt for faster but lower quality previews or for slower but higher quality previews.
If you then move some of the sliders the application reconverts the raw data based on the changes you made and displays the new 8-bit preview. With other adjustments the application will simply increase/decrease the value sent to the display. In both cases the application also keeps track of what settings you have selected, either via the initial profile you used to open the file or any changes you make after opening the file and saves them without altering the actual pixel data in the file.
When you export/convert the file based on the then-current settings the application will do the actual conversion and produce a new file in the output format you have selected: TIFF, PNG, JPEG, etc. *Especially if you have Photoshop set up to convert the preview of an image on your screen more for speed than quality, what you see on the preview will not look the same as what you see when you actually convert the file.*
**Try actually converting the file to a high quality JPEG (same resolution as the original file and full color depth for the jpeg standard with minimal compression) and see if the resulting file shows the banding that you are seeing in the on-screen preview. If not, then look at your *Photoshop* preferences and change those "fast rendering" choices to "high quality".** | [The answer to the question on why colours are different between RAW and JPEG](https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/17694/why-are-colors-different-between-raw-and-jpeg-when-both-are-viewed-in-lightroom?rq=1) might help. Basically, your camera may well be dealing with the flares while RAW shows you, literally, the raw light info you captured. |
46,830 | I'm new to this and I have a problem that I'm strugglin' with and I really hope someone can solve it.
I've headlessly installed my RPi but I'm unable to find the IP address of it and SSH to it.
I connected the RPi via Ethernet to my router and used my laptop to search for the IP. I tried everything:
I used nmap, I used the Pi Finder app from Adafruit, I logged into my router and listed the devices connected to it. Result: nothing, just a big headache and I can't find the IP.
I know it's not a problem of bad installation of Raspian 'cause at the university today I tried to connect my Pi to a monitor via HDMI and everything was working correctly.
DHCP server is workin' on my router, and I have also unplugged and plugged it again before startin' the search of the IP
What could be the problem? Workin' with a plugged monitor is not an option 'cause I don't have one. | 2016/05/03 | [
"https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/46830",
"https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com",
"https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/users/46020/"
] | If you cant see it in the DHCP client list in your router then its not getting an ip, so you cant get it it. Either not booted for some reason, not starting the network device, or not on network at all. Gonna need to see it onscreen to know. | It could be that it is not getting an ip from your routers DHCP server for a lot of reasons, the most likely being that your router has been configured to use static IPS only. But because almost every commercial router has a built in DHCP server that is on by default. And the Pi will request a DHCP ip by default, I believe that the problem lies in the Pi, if possible you should connect it to a display and see if it boots up properly or if any errors are made visible, you may also look at the activity LEDs on the Pi, the red led should be solid and green and yellow should be either solid or blinking, if only the red led is on then your power source is not supplying the required 1.2 amps and if your Pi has the red led on and green led blinks but then stops after about 5 seconds and never comes back on again with no other LEDs coming on other than red. You have a corrupt as card which may be a hardware incompatibility or you may have incorrectly written the image to the card. |
54,660 | On August 17, Ryanair flight [FR 11](https://www.flightera.net/flight_details/Ryanair/FR11/EGSS/2018-08-17) entered the runway after already being delayed for 1.5 hours, only to exit at the first available opportunity. After being jokingly welcomed to Stansted from where we had very nearly departed, we proceeded to wait for at least 1.5 hours more while the wrong cargo was being unloaded to make way for the correct one.
The crew told us the delay was due to having loaded the wrong cargo, and made it very clear to us that this wasn't their fault, which I have no reason to doubt. The pilot made it sound like the tower *told* them to abort. We were already on the runway and turned back at the very last minute.
My question is this: Does the tower have the authority to tell an aircraft to abort take-off for having loaded the wrong cargo?
My impression is that the tower is a traffic cop and safety officer rolled into one, and operational questions such as which plane does this cargo belong are outside their normal range of concerns. | 2018/08/28 | [
"https://aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/54660",
"https://aviation.stackexchange.com",
"https://aviation.stackexchange.com/users/34002/"
] | Yes, the tower can tell an aircraft to abort take off and instruct it to return to the gate, *although it probably never got that far in this case*, I'm guessing that they got to the runway or were asked to line up when the request came in. This was probably at the direction of Ryanair, since the tower would otherwise not have any information on the wrong cargo being loaded, nor would it really care.
I'm guessing at this part....
The back-and-forth probably went like this:
>
> Tower: Ryanair 1234 line up and wait
>
> Ryanair: Line up and wait, Ryanair 1234
>
> Tower: Ryanair 1234 taxi on runway to Delta, call company
>
> Ryanair: Taxi delta, call company
>
>
>
>
The tower probably didn't relate too much information about what is wrong, the pilots have the ability to talk to the dispatcher for Ryanair to get more information.
Regardless, a tower controller can tell an aircraft that a take-off clearance is rejected, even after the take-off run begins. It is up to the pilot to determine if they can safely reject the take-off and to follow those instructions.
The probability though that the tower knew that the incorrect cargo was loaded is probably zero, at least until somebody from Ryanair called them and had them stop the take off. I'm guessing that they didn't actually get take-off clearance (line up and wait is not take-off clearance) and either they were asked to line up, or they were waiting to enter the runway before they were told to go back (and taxiing on the runway is the easiest way to turn around).
Typically Tower will not call a RTO unless there is a safety concern like an incursion or they notice a wing fell off. Once clearance is given it is rarely rejected. If they had gotten clearance Tower would probably have advised them to call company "once in the air" rather than reject a take off.
If you want to know what it sounds like for Tower to reject a take-off, [listen to this YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b26NcJCLZl4) about a near miss regarding similar call signs and two aircraft taking off at the same time. | There's no way to know for sure, since [UK does not allow us to listen to ATC transmissions](/q/3264/487), BUT...
I seriously doubt the *tower* told them to abort the takeoff. I just don't see the company calling the tower unless it's a safety related problem. The company almost certainly called the *aircraft* who then had to inform the tower they had to return to the gate and request taxi instructions.
For the company to call the tower for an operational situation would most likely not be acceptable and it would involve an extra step anyway. They would call the aircraft directly, either over the radio or through an ACARS message.
Not the pilots' fault, nor ATC's fault, but the airline's fault, for sure. |
12,497,347 | I want to make a borderless form that has a thin black edge (like the first one from the picture <http://www.vcskicks.com/remove-titlebar.php> ). I want to do this because the form is poorly visible(it combines with my background). | 2012/09/19 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/12497347",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/1568511/"
] | * Make a borderless form as described in the article you linked to
* Add a [Panel](http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/system.windows.forms.panel.aspx) control
* Set the panel's Dock to "fill"
* Change the [BorderStyle](http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/system.windows.forms.panel.borderstyle.aspx) on the panel to get the effect you want. ([BorderStyle.FixedSingle](http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/system.windows.forms.borderstyle.aspx))
* Add the remaining controls to the Panel. | * Change the Form's padding to 1,1,1,1
* Set the Form's backcolor to the color you want for your border
* Add a panel
* Set Panel to fill the form
* Set Panel color to 'control' or whatever |
3,693 | I picked up a 9V switching DC adapter from SparkFun a while back, but I've been hesitant to use it because it doesn't have any of the usual "safety" approvals that you normally see on power adapters (UL listed, CSA approved, etc.)
Is this just unfounded paranoia? Are there safety issues to think about when using a DC power adapter for a project that will run 24/7? | 2010/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3693",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/971/"
] | Safety approvals cost (a LOT of) money. You won't find anything from sites such as SparkFun displaying these logos. It's not because they're unsafe — it's because it's prohibitively expensive to get the testing done to *prove* they're safe.
If you are buying things from sites such as SparkFun, etc. it is also assumed that you are experienced enough to work safely. Personally, I have zero problem using unlisted equipment, but then again I am in the business of designing this kind of equipment and have a pretty good "feel" for circuit safety and design capabilities based on observing the parts and quality of manufacture. I've seen some pretty sketchy stuff in my time, but I haven't gotten the screaming heebie-jeebies from anything from sites like that.
That being said: Use it at your own risk. If something doesn't feel right to you, don't use it. | The problem is with certification marks, like anything else - they can be faked. Go to globalsources.com, find a cheap manufacturer, they will most likely say "email us the artwork and we'll add it to the transformer!".
In defence of Sparkfun, I wouldn't think they would risk their reputation over such a thing. But it couldn't hurt to ask them about it.
Personally I spend a lot more and get the certified ones with the half-insulated pins as specified by the Australian standards (being in Australia). As after this [experience](http://tronixstuff.wordpress.com/2010/06/16/seriously-dont-buy-a-cheap-plugpack/), I don't like to take any chances. |
3,693 | I picked up a 9V switching DC adapter from SparkFun a while back, but I've been hesitant to use it because it doesn't have any of the usual "safety" approvals that you normally see on power adapters (UL listed, CSA approved, etc.)
Is this just unfounded paranoia? Are there safety issues to think about when using a DC power adapter for a project that will run 24/7? | 2010/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3693",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/971/"
] | The problem is with certification marks, like anything else - they can be faked. Go to globalsources.com, find a cheap manufacturer, they will most likely say "email us the artwork and we'll add it to the transformer!".
In defence of Sparkfun, I wouldn't think they would risk their reputation over such a thing. But it couldn't hurt to ask them about it.
Personally I spend a lot more and get the certified ones with the half-insulated pins as specified by the Australian standards (being in Australia). As after this [experience](http://tronixstuff.wordpress.com/2010/06/16/seriously-dont-buy-a-cheap-plugpack/), I don't like to take any chances. | Getting a UL stamp means you meet a number of safety tests for your equipment. In the US a UL stamp is only 'required' on some electrical equipment in some markets, generally items running on main power but there are some exceptions and only when its being sold or placed in some public areas, for instance a school. Even then a UL stamp is completely optional, however a local inspector may not allow a non-UL device in a building. Needing to be UL listed is completely a political issue not a technical one.
The documents that cover a UL listing are long and cover many issues from shock prevention, reducing the chance of a fire, RF emissions, etc.
As one example you could use a UL listed power supply to power a low voltage device, something like a laptop brick, but if you place that brick within an enclosure it is no longer UL compliant.
UL listing is really a hoop you need to jump through for safety compliance for a product your selling as defined by the market your selling that product to. I wouldn't try to put a non UL listed part in something like a school but for some applications its not needed.
Getting a UL stamp is expensive. The European version of the UL stamp is the CE stamp and it actually goes farther in various directions than a UL stamp does.
I wouldn't bother worrying or caring about a UL listing unless you know that your market or installation cares about that, the best way to determine this is to call you local electrical inspector and ask him about the issue at hand. |
3,693 | I picked up a 9V switching DC adapter from SparkFun a while back, but I've been hesitant to use it because it doesn't have any of the usual "safety" approvals that you normally see on power adapters (UL listed, CSA approved, etc.)
Is this just unfounded paranoia? Are there safety issues to think about when using a DC power adapter for a project that will run 24/7? | 2010/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3693",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/971/"
] | The problem is with certification marks, like anything else - they can be faked. Go to globalsources.com, find a cheap manufacturer, they will most likely say "email us the artwork and we'll add it to the transformer!".
In defence of Sparkfun, I wouldn't think they would risk their reputation over such a thing. But it couldn't hurt to ask them about it.
Personally I spend a lot more and get the certified ones with the half-insulated pins as specified by the Australian standards (being in Australia). As after this [experience](http://tronixstuff.wordpress.com/2010/06/16/seriously-dont-buy-a-cheap-plugpack/), I don't like to take any chances. | Any or all of UL CSA CE TUV ... certification is worthwhile IF GENUINE.
I have seen much Asian manufactured equipment which has had various certification marks attached with no prospect of there having been any related testing.
"Provenance matters" - ie you can *usually* be confident of certification marks when purchasing certified equipment via a competent & reputable large volume supplier with a good reputation and whose business is founded on professional customer service. Digikey qualifies for that. Sparkfun are trying hard and are good at what they do but I would not class them as qualifying. I'd still happily buy product from eg sparkfun, but I'd be discerning about things where safety mattered.
[I have no business interests in either supplier - I buy from Digikey occasionally.
I don't think I've purchased from Sparkfun but would happily do so. I think enough of Digikey that if they sell a brand I'd consider it was probably an acceptable one to use, subject to specifications meeting need.]
Note that brands of popular products will often be faked in the general market and that buying through a reputable supplier is usually but not always protection against this.
If you are buying in any volume then pulling one apart to determine quality of construction is probably worthwhile.
* A genuinely certified product should pass the "looks OK" test with ease.
* Anything at all suspect almost certainly indicates a fake certification.
* Mains voltage clearances should be acceptable, mechanical construction and component mounting reasonable.
* Component ratings should be appropriate. Any electrolytics would ideally be 105C (not essential).
* Generally (but not always) a product with fake certification reeks of fakeness internally - but externally MAY look as real as any.
A modern regulated power supply should meet voltage spec at rated maximum current without excessive heating. Simply loading one up with a (suitably rated) resistor to max load and letting it "set a while" is a good first check. Given any two or Power P, Volts V, Current I, then Resistance R for maximum load =
* V^2/P
* P/I^2
* V/I
---
Suppliers on these sites are more likely than average to offer reputable product:
<http://www.findchips.com/>
<http://www.eciaauthorized.com/>
Ones I've not yet tried but which seem OK at a glance.
<https://octopart.com/>
<http://www.oemsecrets.com/>
<http://www.digipart.com/>
---
REALLY fun places.
YM**W**V !!!! [You mileage **WILL** vary]:
<http://www.ebay.com/>
www.alibaba.com
<http://www.indiamart.com/> |
3,693 | I picked up a 9V switching DC adapter from SparkFun a while back, but I've been hesitant to use it because it doesn't have any of the usual "safety" approvals that you normally see on power adapters (UL listed, CSA approved, etc.)
Is this just unfounded paranoia? Are there safety issues to think about when using a DC power adapter for a project that will run 24/7? | 2010/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3693",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/971/"
] | The problem is with certification marks, like anything else - they can be faked. Go to globalsources.com, find a cheap manufacturer, they will most likely say "email us the artwork and we'll add it to the transformer!".
In defence of Sparkfun, I wouldn't think they would risk their reputation over such a thing. But it couldn't hurt to ask them about it.
Personally I spend a lot more and get the certified ones with the half-insulated pins as specified by the Australian standards (being in Australia). As after this [experience](http://tronixstuff.wordpress.com/2010/06/16/seriously-dont-buy-a-cheap-plugpack/), I don't like to take any chances. | There are a variety of design, manufacturing and qualification requirements
to meet UL, CSA and TUV. I would not use a line powered supply that does not meet
these specifications.
I also tend to buy these supplies from name brand manufacturers and manufacturers
that have ISO9000 approval even though it is difficult to know how/where a device was manufactured.
I would try to return the supply. |
3,693 | I picked up a 9V switching DC adapter from SparkFun a while back, but I've been hesitant to use it because it doesn't have any of the usual "safety" approvals that you normally see on power adapters (UL listed, CSA approved, etc.)
Is this just unfounded paranoia? Are there safety issues to think about when using a DC power adapter for a project that will run 24/7? | 2010/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3693",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/971/"
] | Safety approvals cost (a LOT of) money. You won't find anything from sites such as SparkFun displaying these logos. It's not because they're unsafe — it's because it's prohibitively expensive to get the testing done to *prove* they're safe.
If you are buying things from sites such as SparkFun, etc. it is also assumed that you are experienced enough to work safely. Personally, I have zero problem using unlisted equipment, but then again I am in the business of designing this kind of equipment and have a pretty good "feel" for circuit safety and design capabilities based on observing the parts and quality of manufacture. I've seen some pretty sketchy stuff in my time, but I haven't gotten the screaming heebie-jeebies from anything from sites like that.
That being said: Use it at your own risk. If something doesn't feel right to you, don't use it. | Any or all of UL CSA CE TUV ... certification is worthwhile IF GENUINE.
I have seen much Asian manufactured equipment which has had various certification marks attached with no prospect of there having been any related testing.
"Provenance matters" - ie you can *usually* be confident of certification marks when purchasing certified equipment via a competent & reputable large volume supplier with a good reputation and whose business is founded on professional customer service. Digikey qualifies for that. Sparkfun are trying hard and are good at what they do but I would not class them as qualifying. I'd still happily buy product from eg sparkfun, but I'd be discerning about things where safety mattered.
[I have no business interests in either supplier - I buy from Digikey occasionally.
I don't think I've purchased from Sparkfun but would happily do so. I think enough of Digikey that if they sell a brand I'd consider it was probably an acceptable one to use, subject to specifications meeting need.]
Note that brands of popular products will often be faked in the general market and that buying through a reputable supplier is usually but not always protection against this.
If you are buying in any volume then pulling one apart to determine quality of construction is probably worthwhile.
* A genuinely certified product should pass the "looks OK" test with ease.
* Anything at all suspect almost certainly indicates a fake certification.
* Mains voltage clearances should be acceptable, mechanical construction and component mounting reasonable.
* Component ratings should be appropriate. Any electrolytics would ideally be 105C (not essential).
* Generally (but not always) a product with fake certification reeks of fakeness internally - but externally MAY look as real as any.
A modern regulated power supply should meet voltage spec at rated maximum current without excessive heating. Simply loading one up with a (suitably rated) resistor to max load and letting it "set a while" is a good first check. Given any two or Power P, Volts V, Current I, then Resistance R for maximum load =
* V^2/P
* P/I^2
* V/I
---
Suppliers on these sites are more likely than average to offer reputable product:
<http://www.findchips.com/>
<http://www.eciaauthorized.com/>
Ones I've not yet tried but which seem OK at a glance.
<https://octopart.com/>
<http://www.oemsecrets.com/>
<http://www.digipart.com/>
---
REALLY fun places.
YM**W**V !!!! [You mileage **WILL** vary]:
<http://www.ebay.com/>
www.alibaba.com
<http://www.indiamart.com/> |
3,693 | I picked up a 9V switching DC adapter from SparkFun a while back, but I've been hesitant to use it because it doesn't have any of the usual "safety" approvals that you normally see on power adapters (UL listed, CSA approved, etc.)
Is this just unfounded paranoia? Are there safety issues to think about when using a DC power adapter for a project that will run 24/7? | 2010/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3693",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/971/"
] | Safety approvals cost (a LOT of) money. You won't find anything from sites such as SparkFun displaying these logos. It's not because they're unsafe — it's because it's prohibitively expensive to get the testing done to *prove* they're safe.
If you are buying things from sites such as SparkFun, etc. it is also assumed that you are experienced enough to work safely. Personally, I have zero problem using unlisted equipment, but then again I am in the business of designing this kind of equipment and have a pretty good "feel" for circuit safety and design capabilities based on observing the parts and quality of manufacture. I've seen some pretty sketchy stuff in my time, but I haven't gotten the screaming heebie-jeebies from anything from sites like that.
That being said: Use it at your own risk. If something doesn't feel right to you, don't use it. | UL listed means that even if the device shorts, you will not get electrocuted when you touch it. Given that it's not expensive to get an UL certified DC adapter (less then $10), why take the chance? |
3,693 | I picked up a 9V switching DC adapter from SparkFun a while back, but I've been hesitant to use it because it doesn't have any of the usual "safety" approvals that you normally see on power adapters (UL listed, CSA approved, etc.)
Is this just unfounded paranoia? Are there safety issues to think about when using a DC power adapter for a project that will run 24/7? | 2010/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3693",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/971/"
] | Any or all of UL CSA CE TUV ... certification is worthwhile IF GENUINE.
I have seen much Asian manufactured equipment which has had various certification marks attached with no prospect of there having been any related testing.
"Provenance matters" - ie you can *usually* be confident of certification marks when purchasing certified equipment via a competent & reputable large volume supplier with a good reputation and whose business is founded on professional customer service. Digikey qualifies for that. Sparkfun are trying hard and are good at what they do but I would not class them as qualifying. I'd still happily buy product from eg sparkfun, but I'd be discerning about things where safety mattered.
[I have no business interests in either supplier - I buy from Digikey occasionally.
I don't think I've purchased from Sparkfun but would happily do so. I think enough of Digikey that if they sell a brand I'd consider it was probably an acceptable one to use, subject to specifications meeting need.]
Note that brands of popular products will often be faked in the general market and that buying through a reputable supplier is usually but not always protection against this.
If you are buying in any volume then pulling one apart to determine quality of construction is probably worthwhile.
* A genuinely certified product should pass the "looks OK" test with ease.
* Anything at all suspect almost certainly indicates a fake certification.
* Mains voltage clearances should be acceptable, mechanical construction and component mounting reasonable.
* Component ratings should be appropriate. Any electrolytics would ideally be 105C (not essential).
* Generally (but not always) a product with fake certification reeks of fakeness internally - but externally MAY look as real as any.
A modern regulated power supply should meet voltage spec at rated maximum current without excessive heating. Simply loading one up with a (suitably rated) resistor to max load and letting it "set a while" is a good first check. Given any two or Power P, Volts V, Current I, then Resistance R for maximum load =
* V^2/P
* P/I^2
* V/I
---
Suppliers on these sites are more likely than average to offer reputable product:
<http://www.findchips.com/>
<http://www.eciaauthorized.com/>
Ones I've not yet tried but which seem OK at a glance.
<https://octopart.com/>
<http://www.oemsecrets.com/>
<http://www.digipart.com/>
---
REALLY fun places.
YM**W**V !!!! [You mileage **WILL** vary]:
<http://www.ebay.com/>
www.alibaba.com
<http://www.indiamart.com/> | There are a variety of design, manufacturing and qualification requirements
to meet UL, CSA and TUV. I would not use a line powered supply that does not meet
these specifications.
I also tend to buy these supplies from name brand manufacturers and manufacturers
that have ISO9000 approval even though it is difficult to know how/where a device was manufactured.
I would try to return the supply. |
3,693 | I picked up a 9V switching DC adapter from SparkFun a while back, but I've been hesitant to use it because it doesn't have any of the usual "safety" approvals that you normally see on power adapters (UL listed, CSA approved, etc.)
Is this just unfounded paranoia? Are there safety issues to think about when using a DC power adapter for a project that will run 24/7? | 2010/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3693",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/971/"
] | Safety approvals cost (a LOT of) money. You won't find anything from sites such as SparkFun displaying these logos. It's not because they're unsafe — it's because it's prohibitively expensive to get the testing done to *prove* they're safe.
If you are buying things from sites such as SparkFun, etc. it is also assumed that you are experienced enough to work safely. Personally, I have zero problem using unlisted equipment, but then again I am in the business of designing this kind of equipment and have a pretty good "feel" for circuit safety and design capabilities based on observing the parts and quality of manufacture. I've seen some pretty sketchy stuff in my time, but I haven't gotten the screaming heebie-jeebies from anything from sites like that.
That being said: Use it at your own risk. If something doesn't feel right to you, don't use it. | Using something like that might invalidate a household insurance policy. It would be a good idea to check the small print. |
3,693 | I picked up a 9V switching DC adapter from SparkFun a while back, but I've been hesitant to use it because it doesn't have any of the usual "safety" approvals that you normally see on power adapters (UL listed, CSA approved, etc.)
Is this just unfounded paranoia? Are there safety issues to think about when using a DC power adapter for a project that will run 24/7? | 2010/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3693",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/971/"
] | Using something like that might invalidate a household insurance policy. It would be a good idea to check the small print. | There are a variety of design, manufacturing and qualification requirements
to meet UL, CSA and TUV. I would not use a line powered supply that does not meet
these specifications.
I also tend to buy these supplies from name brand manufacturers and manufacturers
that have ISO9000 approval even though it is difficult to know how/where a device was manufactured.
I would try to return the supply. |
3,693 | I picked up a 9V switching DC adapter from SparkFun a while back, but I've been hesitant to use it because it doesn't have any of the usual "safety" approvals that you normally see on power adapters (UL listed, CSA approved, etc.)
Is this just unfounded paranoia? Are there safety issues to think about when using a DC power adapter for a project that will run 24/7? | 2010/07/25 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3693",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/971/"
] | UL listed means that even if the device shorts, you will not get electrocuted when you touch it. Given that it's not expensive to get an UL certified DC adapter (less then $10), why take the chance? | Using something like that might invalidate a household insurance policy. It would be a good idea to check the small print. |
17,138 | A single user is mapped to a multiple teams in an organization which is handling multiple projects simultaneously. Can a scrum master assign the tasks to the user who is in multiple teams and multiple projects? | 2016/01/13 | [
"https://pm.stackexchange.com/questions/17138",
"https://pm.stackexchange.com",
"https://pm.stackexchange.com/users/21779/"
] | There are a number of issues with this approach:
* Multi-tasking reduces efficiency. Every time they have to context switch between projects they will lose effectiveness.
* Scrum is based on the idea of a known team capacity which is used to calculate the velocity. If team members change or are doing work for other teams then the velocity can no longer be accurately determined.
* The person effectively becomes an external resource that needs to be coordinated. This will reduce the effectiveness of the team.
* Many of the Scrum ceromonies are intended to be for full-time team members only. For example, the daily stand-up and retrospective are usually for full-time team members that are *committed* to the work.
* The dual-team role forces there to be prioritisation between two independant backlogs. e.g. is it a priority for them to work on Story X for Team A or Story Y for Team B? | We had a god-like developer working for multiple projects. He was a silver bullet for any issue. True savior in desperate situations. The solution here was to create custom filter in Jira for him to manage his workload as different projects used different flows and schemes. PM's managed issues priority collaboratively, with COO as an arbiter, using numeric prios from Jira Agile which are unique. He did not participated on Scrum meetings at all. Developer always worked on a top prio issues. His primary role was a firefighting (blockers issues on prod) and last resort(If we needed booster to close all issues from sprint backlog). We did not track his personal velocity as teams had different story points scale. All story points for issue's solved were added to a team velocity. That's how we keeped velocity more steady and mitigated unknown risks.
One more thing about him is that despite his far superior hourly rate the average cost of a story point delivered by him was significantly lower compared to a teams he supported. So there were no negative impact on budget. I hope this war story was useful for you. |
57,870 | You own a warehouse which is a 7x7 grid of cells. You must arrange a maximal number of boxes in the warehouse so that you are able to travel to any given cell. Here are the specific conditions:
* You start at the top left cell.
* You may not occupy the same cell as a box, and all boxes must be in distinct cells.
* You are allowed to move to an adjacent cell if it's free, or if you can push the box(es) in your way.
* You are not required to visit **every cell**. You are simply required to be able to visit **any given cell** from the initial configuration. | 2017/12/12 | [
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/57870",
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com",
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/41566/"
] | Here's a solution for
>
> 29 boxes.
>
> Red cells represent boxes. Denote topmost row as row 1
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6chrX.png)
>
>
>
Solution for accessing bottom 5 rows is trivial:
>
> Push boxes in the same row as target cell toward the two top corners. For example, to access row 3:
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/U0MC8.png)
>
>
>
Solution for accessing row 2:
>
> Same as above really. Diagram below shows how to access the left half of row 2; horizontally mirror to access right half. Note that this grants you access to the middle cell of Row 1.
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhc26.png)
>
>
>
Solution for accessing remainder of row 1:
>
> Simply start in one of the top corners, and push horizontally :) Sample solution for accessing left half of Row 1:
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LJ434.png)
>
>
> | 28 boxes:
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cFN9F.png)
>
>
>
.
>
> Obviously, you can get to the outer two rows.
>
>
>
.
>
> To get to the 9 spaces in the center, push boxes from top or bottom (Whichever is closest), then get the extruded boxes out of the way on the opposite side, then repeat.
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TX9bL.png)
>
>
>
Sorry for all the confusion. This is my last answer.
Edit: added explanation. |
6,033,533 | I'm trying to configure my Spring application to use an SSL certificate I purchased from a CA. I followed the directions for the [Tomcat 6.0 configuration](http://tomcat.apache.org/tomcat-6.0-doc/ssl-howto.html) and have imported the key into my Tomcat keystore and uncommented the SSL connector in the server.xml. When I start Tomcat, I see the connector start on port 8443 in the Tomcat logs, but when I go to <https://example.com:8443> or http: //example.com:8443 or https: //example.com (without the spaces - I don't have the reputation to post links), it times out. What other configuration do I need to do to enable SSL for my Spring application. Do I have to change the application configuration?
I'd also like to only have some URLs over SSL (login, edit profile, etc.). How can I allow this in the Spring configuration? If I have to have all URLs accessible over SSL, that would be ok, but not desirable. I haven't found any tutorials that are Spring specific. | 2011/05/17 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/6033533",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/747600/"
] | First of all you are indicating yourself what might be wrong here.
1) When you update the width when the component is visible => no change
2) When you close the popup and reopen this it is ok, this also means that the item has been re-rendered whereas it was not the first time. This means that you indeed have to try and trigger this yourself.
Here are some usefull links concerning flex component lifecycle. These should help you figure out which methods to call and / or override.
<http://weblog.mrinalwadhwa.com/2009/06/21/flex-4-component-lifecycle/>
<http://www.slideshare.net/rjowen/adobe-flex-component-lifecycle-presentation>
Furthermore, you should never call validateNow() directly, but use invalidation methods instead.
I guess in this case you need to trigger the measurement of your component so a call to
invalidateSize() should do just fine.
Cheers | The key is to set the horizontalScrollPolicy="on" before you set the widths. See
[fixed row width in DataGrid quirk](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/6084593/fixed-row-width-in-datagrid-quirk/6113950#6113950)
or [Flex 3 DataGrid Column Width Problem](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/1302522/flex-3-datagrid-column-width-problem/6103088#6103088) |
361,936 | Sometimes when I'm using SE I need to post a question but I don't know which site to post it on.
I know there's a list of sites but the page on <https://stackexchange.com/sites> is quite hard to search and is a bit of a visual overload.
I was thinking that there could be a search bar where one could type a keyword and the 5 most suitable sites for that keyword would appear. Or maybe a review queue page where you can post your question and then a moderator/someone with enough rep can direct/post your question to the right site. | 2018/01/14 | [
"https://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/361936",
"https://meta.stackoverflow.com",
"https://meta.stackoverflow.com/users/7908770/"
] | There is a site where you can ask where to ask. It's [Meta Stack Exchange](https://meta.stackexchange.com/) it has a [site-recommendation](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/tagged/site-recommendation "show questions tagged 'site-recommendation'") tag whose purpose is
>
> After looking through the site list, <https://stackexchange.com/sites>, you don't know where to ask your question on the Stack Exchange Network? Give as much detail as possible about the question you'd like to ask, and the community will help you find the appropriate site.
>
>
>
So if you're really stuck and you've looked at likely sites but you still don't know you can ask a question there about where your question would go. Be careful to ask where your question should go and don't just state the question you want to ask and expect it to be migrated. If your question is suitable for a Stack Exchange site, you'll need to ask it on the appropriate site directly.
Not all questions have an appropriate site though. If you've asked your question and had it closed as too-broad or unclear, there's probably no alternative site where you can ask a broad or unclear question. | When I am looking for a suitable site, I use the *Filtered Questions* page from the [Network Profile](https://stackexchange.com/users/10748310/adi-c). If you select:
>
> Just questions tagged with the [ ] tag
>
>
>
and type a tag name into the box, it will show suggestions.
After selecting a tag, if you then select:
>
> Just these sites [ ]
>
>
>
It will show the sites on which this tag exists. |
340,564 | >
> "The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually XXX because of inevitable human error."
>
>
> "Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were XXX of the ones she saw in fashion magazines."
>
>
> "The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are XXX"
>
>
>
EDIT - for further context, which should have been added by the poster, the unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are two near-identical characters from the Hebrew alphabet. A less demanding example might have been "em dash" and "en dash", or a lowercase L ("l") and the numeral for one ("1"). | 2016/08/01 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/340564",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/169846/"
] | There are differences of nuance between your examples, and I'm not sure there's a single word that covers all cases equally well.
>
> "The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually *word* because of inevitable human error."
>
>
>
In this case, they tried to make them the same, but error crept in, so I would say they are ***imperfect copies***. This implies that there are detectable differences, and it is those differences that matter.
>
> "Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were *word* of the ones she saw in fashion magazines."
>
>
>
Here we want to get across that the outfits are an attempt to copy the originals but with less investment of time, effort or expense, and lack authenticity. So, I would say they are ***[imitations](http://www.dictionary.com/browse/imitation)***. This carries both senses of "a result or product of imitating" and "a counterfeit; copy".
>
> "The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are *word*"
>
>
>
In this case, they are logically different, but with similar appearance, so I would say they are ***deceptively similar***. Here, the logical difference is what is important, and the similarity causes confusion. | Ersatz - "made or used as a substitute, typically inferior to the thing copied"
Doesn't really work for any of your examples but the first one as phrased, but I think it might serve your purposes in some cases.
In response to the first comment: the definition I originally provided was simply from memory. Here is the Oxford Online definition:
>
> **1** (Of a product) made or used as a substitute, typically an inferior one, for something else: 'ersatz coffee'
>
>
> |
340,564 | >
> "The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually XXX because of inevitable human error."
>
>
> "Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were XXX of the ones she saw in fashion magazines."
>
>
> "The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are XXX"
>
>
>
EDIT - for further context, which should have been added by the poster, the unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are two near-identical characters from the Hebrew alphabet. A less demanding example might have been "em dash" and "en dash", or a lowercase L ("l") and the numeral for one ("1"). | 2016/08/01 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/340564",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/169846/"
] | * lookalikes
* facsimile
* clones
Your first examples are derivative works, inferior copies, but en-dash and em-dash are not accidentally different, there is not an original-vs-copy relationship there. | Reading this post i just have realized how and why they say that Greek is the mother of all languages and the only one that computers can understand.
So if one uses in Greek the prefix apo=from and mimisis=copy / made duplicate
then one has the answer. APOMIMISIS = exact copy of something (could be used from gestures to acting or even for any material or design). It means actually intentional near exact copy but not original (mimic from). |
340,564 | >
> "The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually XXX because of inevitable human error."
>
>
> "Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were XXX of the ones she saw in fashion magazines."
>
>
> "The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are XXX"
>
>
>
EDIT - for further context, which should have been added by the poster, the unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are two near-identical characters from the Hebrew alphabet. A less demanding example might have been "em dash" and "en dash", or a lowercase L ("l") and the numeral for one ("1"). | 2016/08/01 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/340564",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/169846/"
] | Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were **"replicas"**/**"rough imitations"**/**"crude copies"** of the ones she saw in fashion magazines.
>
> * [**replica**](http://www.thefreedictionary.com/replica) - "any close copy or reproduction."
> * [**rough**](http://www.thefreedictionary.com/rough) - "executed or ventured hastily, tentatively, or imperfectly"
> * [**crude**](http://www.thefreedictionary.com/crude) - "not carefully or skillfully made; rough: a quick, crude sketch."
>
>
> | There are some good words suggested here, but I think for the specific case you describe, I would go with "less than accurate", or in single-word form, [inaccurate](http://www.dictionary.com/browse/inaccurate). Though it spans multiple words, I think the phrase "less than accurate" is superior because it implies that it is close, but not quite right. |
340,564 | >
> "The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually XXX because of inevitable human error."
>
>
> "Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were XXX of the ones she saw in fashion magazines."
>
>
> "The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are XXX"
>
>
>
EDIT - for further context, which should have been added by the poster, the unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are two near-identical characters from the Hebrew alphabet. A less demanding example might have been "em dash" and "en dash", or a lowercase L ("l") and the numeral for one ("1"). | 2016/08/01 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/340564",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/169846/"
] | * **Simulacrum** - "a slight, unreal, or superficial likeness or semblance." | [resembles](http://www.dictionary.com/browse/resemble) or "only resembles"
The example sentences have different structures so there is no one solution for them all, but I think they could all be reformed to use forms of *resemble* with very good fidelity to the intent.
>
> to be like or similar to; to possess some similarity to;
>
>
> |
340,564 | >
> "The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually XXX because of inevitable human error."
>
>
> "Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were XXX of the ones she saw in fashion magazines."
>
>
> "The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are XXX"
>
>
>
EDIT - for further context, which should have been added by the poster, the unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are two near-identical characters from the Hebrew alphabet. A less demanding example might have been "em dash" and "en dash", or a lowercase L ("l") and the numeral for one ("1"). | 2016/08/01 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/340564",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/169846/"
] | Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were **"replicas"**/**"rough imitations"**/**"crude copies"** of the ones she saw in fashion magazines.
>
> * [**replica**](http://www.thefreedictionary.com/replica) - "any close copy or reproduction."
> * [**rough**](http://www.thefreedictionary.com/rough) - "executed or ventured hastily, tentatively, or imperfectly"
> * [**crude**](http://www.thefreedictionary.com/crude) - "not carefully or skillfully made; rough: a quick, crude sketch."
>
>
> | Ersatz - "made or used as a substitute, typically inferior to the thing copied"
Doesn't really work for any of your examples but the first one as phrased, but I think it might serve your purposes in some cases.
In response to the first comment: the definition I originally provided was simply from memory. Here is the Oxford Online definition:
>
> **1** (Of a product) made or used as a substitute, typically an inferior one, for something else: 'ersatz coffee'
>
>
> |
340,564 | >
> "The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually XXX because of inevitable human error."
>
>
> "Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were XXX of the ones she saw in fashion magazines."
>
>
> "The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are XXX"
>
>
>
EDIT - for further context, which should have been added by the poster, the unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are two near-identical characters from the Hebrew alphabet. A less demanding example might have been "em dash" and "en dash", or a lowercase L ("l") and the numeral for one ("1"). | 2016/08/01 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/340564",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/169846/"
] | There are differences of nuance between your examples, and I'm not sure there's a single word that covers all cases equally well.
>
> "The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually *word* because of inevitable human error."
>
>
>
In this case, they tried to make them the same, but error crept in, so I would say they are ***imperfect copies***. This implies that there are detectable differences, and it is those differences that matter.
>
> "Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were *word* of the ones she saw in fashion magazines."
>
>
>
Here we want to get across that the outfits are an attempt to copy the originals but with less investment of time, effort or expense, and lack authenticity. So, I would say they are ***[imitations](http://www.dictionary.com/browse/imitation)***. This carries both senses of "a result or product of imitating" and "a counterfeit; copy".
>
> "The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are *word*"
>
>
>
In this case, they are logically different, but with similar appearance, so I would say they are ***deceptively similar***. Here, the logical difference is what is important, and the similarity causes confusion. | I think that you’d explain the concept better accosting two words. For example *lookalike replica.* The word *replica* implies that the object is derived and shares most details with the original, the word *lookalike* would explain that the replica looks like the original, implying that it is **not** the same (otherwise the use of *lookalike,* a word that isn’t very common, wouldn’t be necessary).
If forced to use just one word, I would use *lookalike* (as stated previously by several people) or possibly use *simile,* which is actually the name of a figure of speech but that I think conveys the idea rather effectively (also it’s effective because it evokes the idea of something similar but the use of that word instead of the more common versions conveys meaning just like *lookalike*).
In general however I would aim to find different words to use in each situation according to the context, the intent of the person creating the replica in question and what you aim to transmit. You could describe much more with two words than just an adjective.
For example:
* An honest error while copying could be an *incorrect copy.*
* An ineffective tool similar to another would be a *faulty replica.*
In the examples you presented I would use:
>
> The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually **faulty** because of inevitable human error.
>
>
>
Because *faulty* describes not the copies as a substantive but the action of copying so actually I’m using the adjective creatively by playing on that. Otherwise I would use *tainted* because usually in philology you consider the trickle of the copies from a source to what we have now (see [Q source](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q_source) named after *Quelle* which literally means *water source* in German). Now that I think about it, *imprecise* also nails it quite nicely and by Occam’s razor could be the best choice.
>
> Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were **rip-offs** of the ones she saw in fashion magazines.
>
>
>
Because the subject here is trying to copy, but I think the tone intended is derogatory (which is transmitted to me by the base idea that the copies contain errors). Also the word is often used in regards to design and outfits. In the opposite case I would be fine using *copies/imitations* or even *just inspired/closely inspired* if we want to express a certain legitimacy and appreciation in her action of copying the designs she observed (relying on the first part of the phrase to make the reader understand that her intention was to get a copy but she couldn’t to the original and not a novel creation).
>
> The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are **similar**.
>
>
>
In this case *similar* works just fine. Other options could be *confusable* (maybe it’s me, but it sounds terrible) or *easily confused* or even *easy to exchange by error.* Of course the latter two are most effective if you’re speaking about the risk of committing errors due to their similarity. *Similar* here is the neutral choice, but the context is useful for picking the right word. |
340,564 | >
> "The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually XXX because of inevitable human error."
>
>
> "Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were XXX of the ones she saw in fashion magazines."
>
>
> "The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are XXX"
>
>
>
EDIT - for further context, which should have been added by the poster, the unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are two near-identical characters from the Hebrew alphabet. A less demanding example might have been "em dash" and "en dash", or a lowercase L ("l") and the numeral for one ("1"). | 2016/08/01 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/340564",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/169846/"
] | * **Simulacrum** - "a slight, unreal, or superficial likeness or semblance." | Ersatz - "made or used as a substitute, typically inferior to the thing copied"
Doesn't really work for any of your examples but the first one as phrased, but I think it might serve your purposes in some cases.
In response to the first comment: the definition I originally provided was simply from memory. Here is the Oxford Online definition:
>
> **1** (Of a product) made or used as a substitute, typically an inferior one, for something else: 'ersatz coffee'
>
>
> |
340,564 | >
> "The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually XXX because of inevitable human error."
>
>
> "Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were XXX of the ones she saw in fashion magazines."
>
>
> "The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are XXX"
>
>
>
EDIT - for further context, which should have been added by the poster, the unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are two near-identical characters from the Hebrew alphabet. A less demanding example might have been "em dash" and "en dash", or a lowercase L ("l") and the numeral for one ("1"). | 2016/08/01 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/340564",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/169846/"
] | [resembles](http://www.dictionary.com/browse/resemble) or "only resembles"
The example sentences have different structures so there is no one solution for them all, but I think they could all be reformed to use forms of *resemble* with very good fidelity to the intent.
>
> to be like or similar to; to possess some similarity to;
>
>
> | A **counterfeit** :D
>
> a fraudulent imitation of something else.
>
>
>
Source: [Oxford Dictionaries](http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/us/definition/american_english/counterfeit). |
340,564 | >
> "The copies of texts transcribed by the monks were usually XXX because of inevitable human error."
>
>
> "Her lack of resources meant that her outfits were XXX of the ones she saw in fashion magazines."
>
>
> "The unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are XXX"
>
>
>
EDIT - for further context, which should have been added by the poster, the unicode characters '05AD' and '0596' are two near-identical characters from the Hebrew alphabet. A less demanding example might have been "em dash" and "en dash", or a lowercase L ("l") and the numeral for one ("1"). | 2016/08/01 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/340564",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/169846/"
] | * **Simulacrum** - "a slight, unreal, or superficial likeness or semblance." | There are some good words suggested here, but I think for the specific case you describe, I would go with "less than accurate", or in single-word form, [inaccurate](http://www.dictionary.com/browse/inaccurate). Though it spans multiple words, I think the phrase "less than accurate" is superior because it implies that it is close, but not quite right. |
3,240,577 | i would like to be able to access a database from a remote machine
should i be adding a username in this prompt? if so, where do i input the password? i do not see the dialogue where i can assign a password for a username? or maybe i can just use existing usernames?
[alt text http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/1919/15159985.png](http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/1919/15159985.png) | 2010/07/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/3240577",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/117700/"
] | Object Explorer > Security > Logins:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/41nqY.png)
That was present in 2005 as well.
Resources:
* [SQL Server 2005 Logins](https://www.sqlservercentral.com/articles/sql-server-2005-logins)
* [Basic SQL Server Security concepts - logins, users, and principals](https://laursqlserver.blogspot.com/) | Right click on Logins under security from the management console. This will give you an option for a new login. |
33,773 | I have been asked to do jury duty. As I follow a Buddhist philosophy of Ahimsa, no-harm, I feel conflicted. If I vote guilty, and the defendant is not, I would feel guilty myself. If he/she is guilty, and I vote to acquit, likewise I would feel guilty. So I will be asked to be excused on religious grounds. Is this a valid reason for me to be excused?
Thank you,
Thomas Ramsay. | 2019/06/26 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/33773",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/16568/"
] | This question is unrelated to Buddhism but related to the laws of your land.
I recommend to write to the Court Clerk exactly what you wrote here. They will probably regard you as unfit or too sensitive for jury duty.
>
> *I feel conflicted. If I vote guilty, and the defendant is not, i would
> feel guilty myself. If he/she is guilty, and I vote to acquit,
> likewise i would feel guilty*
>
>
>
If you wish to sound more freaky, include the following:
>
> *49. As a bee gathers honey from the flower without injuring its color or fragrance, even so the sage goes on his alms-round in the village.*
>
>
> *50. Let none find fault with others; let none see the omissions and commissions of others. But let one see one's own acts, done and
> undone.*
>
>
> *Dhammapada*
>
>
>
>
> ---
>
>
> *Monks, even if bandits were to carve you up savagely, limb by limb, with a two-handled saw, he among you who let his heart get angered
> even at that would not be doing my bidding. Even then you should train
> yourselves: 'Our minds will be unaffected and we will say no evil
> words. We will remain sympathetic, with a mind of good will, and with
> no inner hate. We will keep pervading these people with an awareness
> imbued with good will and, beginning with them, we will keep pervading
> the all-encompassing world with an awareness imbued with good will —
> abundant, expansive, immeasurable, free from hostility, free from ill
> will.' That's how you should train yourselves.*
>
>
> *Kakacupama Sutta: The Simile of the Saw*
>
>
>
>
> ---
>
>
> *Who knows the difference between them except a Realized One?*
>
>
> *So, Ānanda, don’t be judgmental about people. Don’t pass judgment on people. Those who pass judgment on people harm themselves.*
>
>
> *I (The Buddha), or someone like me, may pass judgment on people.*
>
>
> [*AN 6.44*](https://suttacentral.net/an6.44/en/sujato)
>
>
> | yes it is not easy to deal with all the moronic rules invented by puthujjanas. Generally those puthujjanas hate that people do not follow their rules, they will claim that the only way that your refusal will comply with their ways is to follow the various punishments applied when they think there is an infringement to their rules.
You can try to see what punishment they have prepared when you do not follow what they call ''jury duty'' and if you think you can handle it, by being mindful as usual like when you are bullied and hurt <https://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/mn/mn.143.than.html> , just take their ways. this way you refusal will comply to their rules and those puthujjanas will say that the suffering they inflicted upon you paid for the offense you caused them by not doing what they want you to do. [puthujjanas love to make people suffer when they think people do not follow their rules]
if you still are on the jury try to follow their rules as much as you can while never lying. Be honest that you do not know if the person is guilty of infringement or not.
You can ask them ''why does it matter if this person is guilty of infringement or not'? what is the point of judging this person? what is achieved by punishing this person if this person you found this person guilty of infringing you rules?'' but puthujjanas hate to question their ways, especially the judges, policemen and lawmakers, since they already think they are righteous, so be careful with that.
here is the story of a ''tibetan buddhist'' about his jury duty <https://tricycle.org/magazine/called-jury-duty/>
There is a good comment here too <https://www.reddit.com/r/Buddhism/comments/4yluel/jury_duty/>
>
> Be honest with them during the selection process about your
> reservations and how your beliefs might influence your decision in a
> case. Your admitted hesitance in even convicting someone you believe
> is guilty is, at the very least, something they deserve to know. The
> fact that your religious convictions come before "justice" could very
> well disqualify you anyway.
>
>
> |
33,773 | I have been asked to do jury duty. As I follow a Buddhist philosophy of Ahimsa, no-harm, I feel conflicted. If I vote guilty, and the defendant is not, I would feel guilty myself. If he/she is guilty, and I vote to acquit, likewise I would feel guilty. So I will be asked to be excused on religious grounds. Is this a valid reason for me to be excused?
Thank you,
Thomas Ramsay. | 2019/06/26 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/33773",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/16568/"
] | Just follow the laws that are there. If you are unsure about guilt or innocence say so. Even monks and nuns stand in judgement over one another when they commit an offense and there is a consequence for it. If you find the person broke law but are uncomfortable with the consequences i.e., sentence, ask to be excused. But even senior monks have a responsibility to judge monks who broke the rules and generally speaking citizens have the same responsibility. | This question is unrelated to Buddhism but related to the laws of your land.
I recommend to write to the Court Clerk exactly what you wrote here. They will probably regard you as unfit or too sensitive for jury duty.
>
> *I feel conflicted. If I vote guilty, and the defendant is not, i would
> feel guilty myself. If he/she is guilty, and I vote to acquit,
> likewise i would feel guilty*
>
>
>
If you wish to sound more freaky, include the following:
>
> *49. As a bee gathers honey from the flower without injuring its color or fragrance, even so the sage goes on his alms-round in the village.*
>
>
> *50. Let none find fault with others; let none see the omissions and commissions of others. But let one see one's own acts, done and
> undone.*
>
>
> *Dhammapada*
>
>
>
>
> ---
>
>
> *Monks, even if bandits were to carve you up savagely, limb by limb, with a two-handled saw, he among you who let his heart get angered
> even at that would not be doing my bidding. Even then you should train
> yourselves: 'Our minds will be unaffected and we will say no evil
> words. We will remain sympathetic, with a mind of good will, and with
> no inner hate. We will keep pervading these people with an awareness
> imbued with good will and, beginning with them, we will keep pervading
> the all-encompassing world with an awareness imbued with good will —
> abundant, expansive, immeasurable, free from hostility, free from ill
> will.' That's how you should train yourselves.*
>
>
> *Kakacupama Sutta: The Simile of the Saw*
>
>
>
>
> ---
>
>
> *Who knows the difference between them except a Realized One?*
>
>
> *So, Ānanda, don’t be judgmental about people. Don’t pass judgment on people. Those who pass judgment on people harm themselves.*
>
>
> *I (The Buddha), or someone like me, may pass judgment on people.*
>
>
> [*AN 6.44*](https://suttacentral.net/an6.44/en/sujato)
>
>
> |
33,773 | I have been asked to do jury duty. As I follow a Buddhist philosophy of Ahimsa, no-harm, I feel conflicted. If I vote guilty, and the defendant is not, I would feel guilty myself. If he/she is guilty, and I vote to acquit, likewise I would feel guilty. So I will be asked to be excused on religious grounds. Is this a valid reason for me to be excused?
Thank you,
Thomas Ramsay. | 2019/06/26 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/33773",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/16568/"
] | Regardless of the person's guilt if give a verdict the karmic result will follow.
Beaing a ruler, judge or juror from a karmic stand point is not advisable.
[Temiya Jataka](http://www.buddha-images.com/temiya-jataka.asp) would be of interest where a price tried hard not to be king as this would mean you have to judge others and even be at war.
So getting excused would be a good option. | This question is unrelated to Buddhism but related to the laws of your land.
I recommend to write to the Court Clerk exactly what you wrote here. They will probably regard you as unfit or too sensitive for jury duty.
>
> *I feel conflicted. If I vote guilty, and the defendant is not, i would
> feel guilty myself. If he/she is guilty, and I vote to acquit,
> likewise i would feel guilty*
>
>
>
If you wish to sound more freaky, include the following:
>
> *49. As a bee gathers honey from the flower without injuring its color or fragrance, even so the sage goes on his alms-round in the village.*
>
>
> *50. Let none find fault with others; let none see the omissions and commissions of others. But let one see one's own acts, done and
> undone.*
>
>
> *Dhammapada*
>
>
>
>
> ---
>
>
> *Monks, even if bandits were to carve you up savagely, limb by limb, with a two-handled saw, he among you who let his heart get angered
> even at that would not be doing my bidding. Even then you should train
> yourselves: 'Our minds will be unaffected and we will say no evil
> words. We will remain sympathetic, with a mind of good will, and with
> no inner hate. We will keep pervading these people with an awareness
> imbued with good will and, beginning with them, we will keep pervading
> the all-encompassing world with an awareness imbued with good will —
> abundant, expansive, immeasurable, free from hostility, free from ill
> will.' That's how you should train yourselves.*
>
>
> *Kakacupama Sutta: The Simile of the Saw*
>
>
>
>
> ---
>
>
> *Who knows the difference between them except a Realized One?*
>
>
> *So, Ānanda, don’t be judgmental about people. Don’t pass judgment on people. Those who pass judgment on people harm themselves.*
>
>
> *I (The Buddha), or someone like me, may pass judgment on people.*
>
>
> [*AN 6.44*](https://suttacentral.net/an6.44/en/sujato)
>
>
> |
33,773 | I have been asked to do jury duty. As I follow a Buddhist philosophy of Ahimsa, no-harm, I feel conflicted. If I vote guilty, and the defendant is not, I would feel guilty myself. If he/she is guilty, and I vote to acquit, likewise I would feel guilty. So I will be asked to be excused on religious grounds. Is this a valid reason for me to be excused?
Thank you,
Thomas Ramsay. | 2019/06/26 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/33773",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/16568/"
] | Just follow the laws that are there. If you are unsure about guilt or innocence say so. Even monks and nuns stand in judgement over one another when they commit an offense and there is a consequence for it. If you find the person broke law but are uncomfortable with the consequences i.e., sentence, ask to be excused. But even senior monks have a responsibility to judge monks who broke the rules and generally speaking citizens have the same responsibility. | yes it is not easy to deal with all the moronic rules invented by puthujjanas. Generally those puthujjanas hate that people do not follow their rules, they will claim that the only way that your refusal will comply with their ways is to follow the various punishments applied when they think there is an infringement to their rules.
You can try to see what punishment they have prepared when you do not follow what they call ''jury duty'' and if you think you can handle it, by being mindful as usual like when you are bullied and hurt <https://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/mn/mn.143.than.html> , just take their ways. this way you refusal will comply to their rules and those puthujjanas will say that the suffering they inflicted upon you paid for the offense you caused them by not doing what they want you to do. [puthujjanas love to make people suffer when they think people do not follow their rules]
if you still are on the jury try to follow their rules as much as you can while never lying. Be honest that you do not know if the person is guilty of infringement or not.
You can ask them ''why does it matter if this person is guilty of infringement or not'? what is the point of judging this person? what is achieved by punishing this person if this person you found this person guilty of infringing you rules?'' but puthujjanas hate to question their ways, especially the judges, policemen and lawmakers, since they already think they are righteous, so be careful with that.
here is the story of a ''tibetan buddhist'' about his jury duty <https://tricycle.org/magazine/called-jury-duty/>
There is a good comment here too <https://www.reddit.com/r/Buddhism/comments/4yluel/jury_duty/>
>
> Be honest with them during the selection process about your
> reservations and how your beliefs might influence your decision in a
> case. Your admitted hesitance in even convicting someone you believe
> is guilty is, at the very least, something they deserve to know. The
> fact that your religious convictions come before "justice" could very
> well disqualify you anyway.
>
>
> |
33,773 | I have been asked to do jury duty. As I follow a Buddhist philosophy of Ahimsa, no-harm, I feel conflicted. If I vote guilty, and the defendant is not, I would feel guilty myself. If he/she is guilty, and I vote to acquit, likewise I would feel guilty. So I will be asked to be excused on religious grounds. Is this a valid reason for me to be excused?
Thank you,
Thomas Ramsay. | 2019/06/26 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/33773",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/16568/"
] | Regardless of the person's guilt if give a verdict the karmic result will follow.
Beaing a ruler, judge or juror from a karmic stand point is not advisable.
[Temiya Jataka](http://www.buddha-images.com/temiya-jataka.asp) would be of interest where a price tried hard not to be king as this would mean you have to judge others and even be at war.
So getting excused would be a good option. | yes it is not easy to deal with all the moronic rules invented by puthujjanas. Generally those puthujjanas hate that people do not follow their rules, they will claim that the only way that your refusal will comply with their ways is to follow the various punishments applied when they think there is an infringement to their rules.
You can try to see what punishment they have prepared when you do not follow what they call ''jury duty'' and if you think you can handle it, by being mindful as usual like when you are bullied and hurt <https://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/mn/mn.143.than.html> , just take their ways. this way you refusal will comply to their rules and those puthujjanas will say that the suffering they inflicted upon you paid for the offense you caused them by not doing what they want you to do. [puthujjanas love to make people suffer when they think people do not follow their rules]
if you still are on the jury try to follow their rules as much as you can while never lying. Be honest that you do not know if the person is guilty of infringement or not.
You can ask them ''why does it matter if this person is guilty of infringement or not'? what is the point of judging this person? what is achieved by punishing this person if this person you found this person guilty of infringing you rules?'' but puthujjanas hate to question their ways, especially the judges, policemen and lawmakers, since they already think they are righteous, so be careful with that.
here is the story of a ''tibetan buddhist'' about his jury duty <https://tricycle.org/magazine/called-jury-duty/>
There is a good comment here too <https://www.reddit.com/r/Buddhism/comments/4yluel/jury_duty/>
>
> Be honest with them during the selection process about your
> reservations and how your beliefs might influence your decision in a
> case. Your admitted hesitance in even convicting someone you believe
> is guilty is, at the very least, something they deserve to know. The
> fact that your religious convictions come before "justice" could very
> well disqualify you anyway.
>
>
> |
33,773 | I have been asked to do jury duty. As I follow a Buddhist philosophy of Ahimsa, no-harm, I feel conflicted. If I vote guilty, and the defendant is not, I would feel guilty myself. If he/she is guilty, and I vote to acquit, likewise I would feel guilty. So I will be asked to be excused on religious grounds. Is this a valid reason for me to be excused?
Thank you,
Thomas Ramsay. | 2019/06/26 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/33773",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/16568/"
] | That's a good question. As a JD, I would tell you that the purpose of a jury is for America to live up to its promise of a fair trial, so no one should technically be obligated to sit on the jury, if they choose not to. Citing religious grounds is legally fair.
As a Buddhist, I'd say participate to learn about your own legal system, without which you may harm another as well. But inform them that your religion does not allow you to convict another and so will not vote. | yes it is not easy to deal with all the moronic rules invented by puthujjanas. Generally those puthujjanas hate that people do not follow their rules, they will claim that the only way that your refusal will comply with their ways is to follow the various punishments applied when they think there is an infringement to their rules.
You can try to see what punishment they have prepared when you do not follow what they call ''jury duty'' and if you think you can handle it, by being mindful as usual like when you are bullied and hurt <https://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/mn/mn.143.than.html> , just take their ways. this way you refusal will comply to their rules and those puthujjanas will say that the suffering they inflicted upon you paid for the offense you caused them by not doing what they want you to do. [puthujjanas love to make people suffer when they think people do not follow their rules]
if you still are on the jury try to follow their rules as much as you can while never lying. Be honest that you do not know if the person is guilty of infringement or not.
You can ask them ''why does it matter if this person is guilty of infringement or not'? what is the point of judging this person? what is achieved by punishing this person if this person you found this person guilty of infringing you rules?'' but puthujjanas hate to question their ways, especially the judges, policemen and lawmakers, since they already think they are righteous, so be careful with that.
here is the story of a ''tibetan buddhist'' about his jury duty <https://tricycle.org/magazine/called-jury-duty/>
There is a good comment here too <https://www.reddit.com/r/Buddhism/comments/4yluel/jury_duty/>
>
> Be honest with them during the selection process about your
> reservations and how your beliefs might influence your decision in a
> case. Your admitted hesitance in even convicting someone you believe
> is guilty is, at the very least, something they deserve to know. The
> fact that your religious convictions come before "justice" could very
> well disqualify you anyway.
>
>
> |
33,773 | I have been asked to do jury duty. As I follow a Buddhist philosophy of Ahimsa, no-harm, I feel conflicted. If I vote guilty, and the defendant is not, I would feel guilty myself. If he/she is guilty, and I vote to acquit, likewise I would feel guilty. So I will be asked to be excused on religious grounds. Is this a valid reason for me to be excused?
Thank you,
Thomas Ramsay. | 2019/06/26 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/33773",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/16568/"
] | Just follow the laws that are there. If you are unsure about guilt or innocence say so. Even monks and nuns stand in judgement over one another when they commit an offense and there is a consequence for it. If you find the person broke law but are uncomfortable with the consequences i.e., sentence, ask to be excused. But even senior monks have a responsibility to judge monks who broke the rules and generally speaking citizens have the same responsibility. | That's a good question. As a JD, I would tell you that the purpose of a jury is for America to live up to its promise of a fair trial, so no one should technically be obligated to sit on the jury, if they choose not to. Citing religious grounds is legally fair.
As a Buddhist, I'd say participate to learn about your own legal system, without which you may harm another as well. But inform them that your religion does not allow you to convict another and so will not vote. |
33,773 | I have been asked to do jury duty. As I follow a Buddhist philosophy of Ahimsa, no-harm, I feel conflicted. If I vote guilty, and the defendant is not, I would feel guilty myself. If he/she is guilty, and I vote to acquit, likewise I would feel guilty. So I will be asked to be excused on religious grounds. Is this a valid reason for me to be excused?
Thank you,
Thomas Ramsay. | 2019/06/26 | [
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/33773",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"https://buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/16568/"
] | Regardless of the person's guilt if give a verdict the karmic result will follow.
Beaing a ruler, judge or juror from a karmic stand point is not advisable.
[Temiya Jataka](http://www.buddha-images.com/temiya-jataka.asp) would be of interest where a price tried hard not to be king as this would mean you have to judge others and even be at war.
So getting excused would be a good option. | That's a good question. As a JD, I would tell you that the purpose of a jury is for America to live up to its promise of a fair trial, so no one should technically be obligated to sit on the jury, if they choose not to. Citing religious grounds is legally fair.
As a Buddhist, I'd say participate to learn about your own legal system, without which you may harm another as well. But inform them that your religion does not allow you to convict another and so will not vote. |
157,219 | With the best will in the world, whatever software you (and me) write will have some kind of defect in it.
What can I do, as a developer, to make things easier for the support department (first line, through to third line, and development) to diagnose, workaround and fix problems that the user encounters.
### Notes
* I'm expecting answers which are predominantly technical in nature, but I expect other answers to exist.
* "Don't release bugs in your software" is a good answer, but I know that already. | 2008/10/01 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/157219",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4737/"
] | If you have at least a part of your application running on your server, make sure you monitor logs for errors.
When we first implemented daily script which greps for ERROR/Exception/FATAL and sends results per email, I was surprised how many issues (mostly tiny) we haven't noticed before.
This will help in a way, that you notice some problems yourself before they are reported to support team. | Similar to a combination of jamesh's answers, we do this for web apps
* Supply a "report a bug" link so that users can report bugs even when they don't generate error screens.
* That link opens up a small dialog which in turn submits via Ajax to a processor on the server.
* The processor associates the submission to the script being reported on and its PID, so that we can find the right log files (we organize ours by script/pid), and then sends e-mail to our bug tracking system. |
157,219 | With the best will in the world, whatever software you (and me) write will have some kind of defect in it.
What can I do, as a developer, to make things easier for the support department (first line, through to third line, and development) to diagnose, workaround and fix problems that the user encounters.
### Notes
* I'm expecting answers which are predominantly technical in nature, but I expect other answers to exist.
* "Don't release bugs in your software" is a good answer, but I know that already. | 2008/10/01 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/157219",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4737/"
] | Make sure your application can be deployed with automatic updates. One of the headaches of a support group is upgrading customers to the latest and greatest so that they can take advantage of bug fixes, new features, etc. If the upgrade process is seamless, stress can be relieved from the support group. | Some thoughts:
* Do your best to validate user input immediately.
* Check for errors or exceptions as early and as often as possible. It's easier to trace and fix a problem just after it occurs, before it generates "ricochet" effects.
* Whenever possible, describe how to *correct* the problem in your error message. The user isn't interested in what went wrong, only how to continue working:
>
> **BAD:** Floating-point exception in vogon.c, line 42
>
> **BETTER:** Please enter a dollar amount greater than 0.
>
>
>
* If you can't suggest a correction for the problem, tell the user what to do (or *not* to do) before calling tech support, such as: "Click Help->About to find the version/license number," or "Please leave this error message on the screen."
* Talk to your support staff. Ask about common problems and pet peeves. Have *them* answer this question!
* If you have a web site with a support section, provide a hyperlink or URL in the error message.
* Indicate whether the error is due to a temporary or permanent condition, so the user will know whether to try again.
* Put your cell phone number in every error message, and identify yourself as the developer.
Ok, the last item probably isn't practical, but wouldn't it encourage better coding practices? |
157,219 | With the best will in the world, whatever software you (and me) write will have some kind of defect in it.
What can I do, as a developer, to make things easier for the support department (first line, through to third line, and development) to diagnose, workaround and fix problems that the user encounters.
### Notes
* I'm expecting answers which are predominantly technical in nature, but I expect other answers to exist.
* "Don't release bugs in your software" is a good answer, but I know that already. | 2008/10/01 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/157219",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4737/"
] | * Log as much detail about the environment in which you're executing as possible (probably on startup).
* Give exceptions meaningful names and messages. They may only appear in a stack trace, but that's still incredibly helpful.
* Allocate some time to writing tools for the support team. They will almost certainly have needs beyond either your users or the developers.
* Sit with the support team for half a day to see what kind of thing they're having to do. Watch any repetitive tasks - they may not even consciously notice the repetition any more.
* Meet up with the support team regularly - make sure they never resent you. | Have a mindset for improving things. Whenever you fix something, ask:
* How can I avoid a similar problem in the future?
Then try to find a way of solving *that* problem. |
157,219 | With the best will in the world, whatever software you (and me) write will have some kind of defect in it.
What can I do, as a developer, to make things easier for the support department (first line, through to third line, and development) to diagnose, workaround and fix problems that the user encounters.
### Notes
* I'm expecting answers which are predominantly technical in nature, but I expect other answers to exist.
* "Don't release bugs in your software" is a good answer, but I know that already. | 2008/10/01 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/157219",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4737/"
] | * Log as much detail about the environment in which you're executing as possible (probably on startup).
* Give exceptions meaningful names and messages. They may only appear in a stack trace, but that's still incredibly helpful.
* Allocate some time to writing tools for the support team. They will almost certainly have needs beyond either your users or the developers.
* Sit with the support team for half a day to see what kind of thing they're having to do. Watch any repetitive tasks - they may not even consciously notice the repetition any more.
* Meet up with the support team regularly - make sure they never resent you. | Make sure your application can be deployed with automatic updates. One of the headaches of a support group is upgrading customers to the latest and greatest so that they can take advantage of bug fixes, new features, etc. If the upgrade process is seamless, stress can be relieved from the support group. |
157,219 | With the best will in the world, whatever software you (and me) write will have some kind of defect in it.
What can I do, as a developer, to make things easier for the support department (first line, through to third line, and development) to diagnose, workaround and fix problems that the user encounters.
### Notes
* I'm expecting answers which are predominantly technical in nature, but I expect other answers to exist.
* "Don't release bugs in your software" is a good answer, but I know that already. | 2008/10/01 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/157219",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4737/"
] | * Log as much detail about the environment in which you're executing as possible (probably on startup).
* Give exceptions meaningful names and messages. They may only appear in a stack trace, but that's still incredibly helpful.
* Allocate some time to writing tools for the support team. They will almost certainly have needs beyond either your users or the developers.
* Sit with the support team for half a day to see what kind of thing they're having to do. Watch any repetitive tasks - they may not even consciously notice the repetition any more.
* Meet up with the support team regularly - make sure they never resent you. | Similar to a combination of jamesh's answers, we do this for web apps
* Supply a "report a bug" link so that users can report bugs even when they don't generate error screens.
* That link opens up a small dialog which in turn submits via Ajax to a processor on the server.
* The processor associates the submission to the script being reported on and its PID, so that we can find the right log files (we organize ours by script/pid), and then sends e-mail to our bug tracking system. |
157,219 | With the best will in the world, whatever software you (and me) write will have some kind of defect in it.
What can I do, as a developer, to make things easier for the support department (first line, through to third line, and development) to diagnose, workaround and fix problems that the user encounters.
### Notes
* I'm expecting answers which are predominantly technical in nature, but I expect other answers to exist.
* "Don't release bugs in your software" is a good answer, but I know that already. | 2008/10/01 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/157219",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4737/"
] | Technical features:
* In the error dialogue for a desktop app, include a clickable button that opens up and email, and attaches the stacktrace, and log, including system properties.
* On an error screen in a webapp, report a timestamp including nano-seconds and error code, pid, etc so server logs can be searched.
* Allow log levels to be dynamically changed at runtime. Having to restart your server to do this is a pain.
* Log as much detail about the environment in which you're executing as possible (probably on startup).
Non-technical:
* Provide a known issues section in your documentation. If this is a web page, then this correspond to a triaged bug list from your bug tracker.
* Depending on your audience, expose some kind of interface to your issue tracking.
* Again, depending on audience, provide some forum for the users to help each other.
* Usability solves problems before they are a problem. Sensible, non-scary error messages often allow a user to find the solution to their own problem.
Process:
* watch your logs. For a server side product, regular reviews of logs will be a good early warning sign for impending trouble. Make sure support knows when you think there is trouble ahead.
* allow time to write tools for the support department. These may start off as debugging tools for devs, become a window onto the internal state of the app for support, and even become power tools for future releases.
* allow some time for devs to spend with the support team; listening to customers on a support call, go out on site, etc. Make sure that the devs are not allowed to promise anything. Debrief the dev after doing this - there maybe feature ideas there.
* where appropriate provide user training. An impedence mismatch can cause the user to perceive problems with the software, rather than the user's mental model of the software. | Make sure your application can be deployed with automatic updates. One of the headaches of a support group is upgrading customers to the latest and greatest so that they can take advantage of bug fixes, new features, etc. If the upgrade process is seamless, stress can be relieved from the support group. |
157,219 | With the best will in the world, whatever software you (and me) write will have some kind of defect in it.
What can I do, as a developer, to make things easier for the support department (first line, through to third line, and development) to diagnose, workaround and fix problems that the user encounters.
### Notes
* I'm expecting answers which are predominantly technical in nature, but I expect other answers to exist.
* "Don't release bugs in your software" is a good answer, but I know that already. | 2008/10/01 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/157219",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4737/"
] | * Log as much detail about the environment in which you're executing as possible (probably on startup).
* Give exceptions meaningful names and messages. They may only appear in a stack trace, but that's still incredibly helpful.
* Allocate some time to writing tools for the support team. They will almost certainly have needs beyond either your users or the developers.
* Sit with the support team for half a day to see what kind of thing they're having to do. Watch any repetitive tasks - they may not even consciously notice the repetition any more.
* Meet up with the support team regularly - make sure they never resent you. | Some thoughts:
* Do your best to validate user input immediately.
* Check for errors or exceptions as early and as often as possible. It's easier to trace and fix a problem just after it occurs, before it generates "ricochet" effects.
* Whenever possible, describe how to *correct* the problem in your error message. The user isn't interested in what went wrong, only how to continue working:
>
> **BAD:** Floating-point exception in vogon.c, line 42
>
> **BETTER:** Please enter a dollar amount greater than 0.
>
>
>
* If you can't suggest a correction for the problem, tell the user what to do (or *not* to do) before calling tech support, such as: "Click Help->About to find the version/license number," or "Please leave this error message on the screen."
* Talk to your support staff. Ask about common problems and pet peeves. Have *them* answer this question!
* If you have a web site with a support section, provide a hyperlink or URL in the error message.
* Indicate whether the error is due to a temporary or permanent condition, so the user will know whether to try again.
* Put your cell phone number in every error message, and identify yourself as the developer.
Ok, the last item probably isn't practical, but wouldn't it encourage better coding practices? |
157,219 | With the best will in the world, whatever software you (and me) write will have some kind of defect in it.
What can I do, as a developer, to make things easier for the support department (first line, through to third line, and development) to diagnose, workaround and fix problems that the user encounters.
### Notes
* I'm expecting answers which are predominantly technical in nature, but I expect other answers to exist.
* "Don't release bugs in your software" is a good answer, but I know that already. | 2008/10/01 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/157219",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4737/"
] | Make sure your application can be deployed with automatic updates. One of the headaches of a support group is upgrading customers to the latest and greatest so that they can take advantage of bug fixes, new features, etc. If the upgrade process is seamless, stress can be relieved from the support group. | * Provide a mechanism for capturing what the user was doing when the problem happened, a logging or tracing capability that can help provide you and your colleagues with data (what exception was thrown, stack traces, program state, what the user had been doing, etc.) so that you can recreate the issue.
* If you don't already incorporate developer automated testing in your product development, consider doing so. |
157,219 | With the best will in the world, whatever software you (and me) write will have some kind of defect in it.
What can I do, as a developer, to make things easier for the support department (first line, through to third line, and development) to diagnose, workaround and fix problems that the user encounters.
### Notes
* I'm expecting answers which are predominantly technical in nature, but I expect other answers to exist.
* "Don't release bugs in your software" is a good answer, but I know that already. | 2008/10/01 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/157219",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4737/"
] | Make sure your application can be deployed with automatic updates. One of the headaches of a support group is upgrading customers to the latest and greatest so that they can take advantage of bug fixes, new features, etc. If the upgrade process is seamless, stress can be relieved from the support group. | Similar to a combination of jamesh's answers, we do this for web apps
* Supply a "report a bug" link so that users can report bugs even when they don't generate error screens.
* That link opens up a small dialog which in turn submits via Ajax to a processor on the server.
* The processor associates the submission to the script being reported on and its PID, so that we can find the right log files (we organize ours by script/pid), and then sends e-mail to our bug tracking system. |
157,219 | With the best will in the world, whatever software you (and me) write will have some kind of defect in it.
What can I do, as a developer, to make things easier for the support department (first line, through to third line, and development) to diagnose, workaround and fix problems that the user encounters.
### Notes
* I'm expecting answers which are predominantly technical in nature, but I expect other answers to exist.
* "Don't release bugs in your software" is a good answer, but I know that already. | 2008/10/01 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/157219",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4737/"
] | Technical features:
* In the error dialogue for a desktop app, include a clickable button that opens up and email, and attaches the stacktrace, and log, including system properties.
* On an error screen in a webapp, report a timestamp including nano-seconds and error code, pid, etc so server logs can be searched.
* Allow log levels to be dynamically changed at runtime. Having to restart your server to do this is a pain.
* Log as much detail about the environment in which you're executing as possible (probably on startup).
Non-technical:
* Provide a known issues section in your documentation. If this is a web page, then this correspond to a triaged bug list from your bug tracker.
* Depending on your audience, expose some kind of interface to your issue tracking.
* Again, depending on audience, provide some forum for the users to help each other.
* Usability solves problems before they are a problem. Sensible, non-scary error messages often allow a user to find the solution to their own problem.
Process:
* watch your logs. For a server side product, regular reviews of logs will be a good early warning sign for impending trouble. Make sure support knows when you think there is trouble ahead.
* allow time to write tools for the support department. These may start off as debugging tools for devs, become a window onto the internal state of the app for support, and even become power tools for future releases.
* allow some time for devs to spend with the support team; listening to customers on a support call, go out on site, etc. Make sure that the devs are not allowed to promise anything. Debrief the dev after doing this - there maybe feature ideas there.
* where appropriate provide user training. An impedence mismatch can cause the user to perceive problems with the software, rather than the user's mental model of the software. | Provide a know issues document
Give training on the application so they know how it should work
Provide simple concise log lines that they will understand or create error codes with a corresponding document that describes the error |
8,201 | Crop duster aircraft operate much differently than most other aircraft. Are there special rules that apply to their operation? Specifically, are there rules about how close they can fly to structures, terrain, or vehicles? | 2014/08/18 | [
"https://aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/8201",
"https://aviation.stackexchange.com",
"https://aviation.stackexchange.com/users/1696/"
] | [14 CFR Part 137](http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2011-title14-vol3/xml/CFR-2011-title14-vol3-part137.xml#seqnum137.51) regulates agricultural aircraft operations, with §137.51 discussing operation over congested areas, including:
>
> The crop duster must operate “with maximum safety to persons and
> property on the surface” and the crop duster must have obtained prior
> written approval from the FAA and notice of the intended operation
> must be given to the public. Further, the crop duster must submit a
> plan to the FAA that considers the flight obstructions and plans for a
> possible emergency landing.
>
>
>
Of utmost importance is the section regarding the flying of [restricted category civil aircraft](https://www.faa.gov/aircraft/air_cert/airworthiness_certification/sp_awcert/restrict/) such as agricultural aircraft:
>
> **[Sec. 91.313](http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2011-title14-vol2/xml/CFR-2011-title14-vol2-part91.xml#seqnum91.313) — Restricted category civil aircraft: Operating limitations.**
>
>
> (a) No person may operate a restricted category civil aircraft— (1)
> For other than the special purpose for which it is certificated; or
>
>
> (2) In an operation other than one necessary to accomplish the work
> activity directly associated with that special purpose.
>
>
> ...
>
>
> (e) Except when operating in accordance with the terms and conditions
> of a certificate of waiver or special operating limitations issued by
> the Administrator, no person may operate a restricted category civil
> aircraft within the United States—
>
>
> (1) Over a densely populated area;
>
>
> (2) In a congested airway; or
>
>
> (3) Near a busy airport where passenger transport operations are
> conducted.
>
>
> ...
>
>
>
More information is available in [this FAA document](https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:Lk76S-HToD4J:https://www.faa.gov/other_visit/aviation_industry/designees_delegations/designee_types/ame/media/Section%2520II.4.3%2520Aerial%2520Application%2520Operations.doc%20&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=in). | Ag applicators, crop dusters, are generally governed by 14CFR91 for the operation of their aircraft, except when actually performing ag operations, which includes application and travel to and from loads and applications, they are governed by 14CFR137.
Operations over other than congested areas, 14CFR137.49 permits operations below 500 ft AGL, and closer than 500 feet to persons, vessels, vehicles, and structures.
Operations over congested areas, 14CFR137.51 permits wider exceptions to the general rules under 14CFR91, but with various provisions for helicopters, single engine and multi engine airplanes. Additionally, it makes clear that minimum altitude deviations from 14CFR91 are limited to dispensing and approaches and departures for dispensing. It does not relieve the operator from flying at an altitude which provides safety in the event of an emergency, without endangering persons or property on the surface.
Furthermore, 14CFR137.53 establishes requirements for pilot experience and aircraft inspections when ag aircraft are operated over congested areas.
The technology for ag aircraft is changing, and while recip Otto cycle aircooled engines have been employed traditionally, it is much more common to utilize turboprop powerplants. Additionally, turboprop conversions are popular for some traditional ag aircraft. The turboprop enhances reliability substantially, and are equipped with inertial separators to reduce the likelihood of things like the ingestion of birds from causing powerplant failures. Additionally turboprops have enhanced higher altitude performance which traditionally called for the use of more complex turbocharged recip engines or multi engine ag aircraft.
In general, ag pilots have substantial experience, and in general are well versed at low altitude operations. There are some academic and also flight school operations which specialize in training ag pilots.
In short, with appropriate planning, and a good working relationship with the local FAA FSDO office, and appropriate public relations (notice to public required for some operations over congested areas under 14CFR137.51) ag applicators are given wide latitude to perform their function while assuring acceptable levels of public safety. |
178,332 | I always have this worry, and that includes, applying for a Schengen visa for longer periods. Like here is what I mean, I want to apply for a schengen visa for first time entry, and I would like to visit often and on, since my job allows me to (I work remotely for a company in Switzerland) and hence I do, I have a chance to enter a country time to time, without worries, problems etc.
Now the internet and living systems in Nigeria is completely another thing. I have lived in some countries, some include Rwanda, Togo, Benin Republic, Ghana Uganda and Senegal but I want to try something quite new.
The question is: Which Schengen country can I apply to at this time that can allow me to apply for long-term (multiple entry) visas for first entry? | 2022/12/22 | [
"https://travel.stackexchange.com/questions/178332",
"https://travel.stackexchange.com",
"https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/132888/"
] | As a general rule, travel plans (when, for how long and for how many journeys) determine the type and period of validity for a Schengen visitor (‘C’) visa.
Long term multiple-entry C visas valid for 1, 2, or 5 years are not usually given unless the applicant has previously been issued with a Schengen visa (not an airport transit visa) 3 times, or has previously held a long term multiple-entry visa.
If you’ve never had a Schengen visa before AFAIK there is nothing to stop you from applying to any country, but your application will be refused as you do not meet the eligibility criteria. | Note that a Schengen C visa does not allow you to work remote **from** those Schengen states. A bit simplified, you can visit on a C visa to *talk about what work you need to do*, but not to actually perform it. For that, you would need a national visa with a work permit, which are considerably harder to get. |
1,265,376 | 
I know this is a silly question (if not a downright stupid one)
Where can the Fat32 Format utility be downloaded from ?
I obviously tried using Google but the only website I could find was [this](https://en.softonic.com/download/fat32-format/windows)
which was odd considering it's supposedly free
I followed the Download button but the website didn't download anything or display any messages about the Download process
I tried using advanced google search to filter out specific phrases but it didn't work
I have windows 7 ultimate
---
It's not the topic of the question but here's the background story:
I have a 64GB USB drive that is NOT formated to FAT32 file system type, I need to change it to that file system type so that I can make it into a bootable ISO USB drive that is compatible with my computer's old and outdated BIOS (motherboard GR1M-VS3) | 2017/11/04 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/1265376",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/808195/"
] | Figured out.
Installed this:
<https://supportcenter.checkpoint.com/supportcenter/portal/user/anon/page/default.psml/media-type/html?action=portlets.DCFileAction&eventSubmit_doGetdcdetails=&fileid=10655>
Then run Internet Explorer as an Administrator. | Sometimes, even after the installation done above, I receive error:
>
> SSL Network Extender is down and could not be started. Consider rebooting the computer (#323)
>
>
>
**Solution:** Computer Management > Restart Check Point SSL Network Extender
* This service must be running  |
1,265,376 | 
I know this is a silly question (if not a downright stupid one)
Where can the Fat32 Format utility be downloaded from ?
I obviously tried using Google but the only website I could find was [this](https://en.softonic.com/download/fat32-format/windows)
which was odd considering it's supposedly free
I followed the Download button but the website didn't download anything or display any messages about the Download process
I tried using advanced google search to filter out specific phrases but it didn't work
I have windows 7 ultimate
---
It's not the topic of the question but here's the background story:
I have a 64GB USB drive that is NOT formated to FAT32 file system type, I need to change it to that file system type so that I can make it into a bootable ISO USB drive that is compatible with my computer's old and outdated BIOS (motherboard GR1M-VS3) | 2017/11/04 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/1265376",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/808195/"
] | Figured out.
Installed this:
<https://supportcenter.checkpoint.com/supportcenter/portal/user/anon/page/default.psml/media-type/html?action=portlets.DCFileAction&eventSubmit_doGetdcdetails=&fileid=10655>
Then run Internet Explorer as an Administrator. | On Dell Notebooks must be turned off the "Secure Boot" option in BIOS. Then works it. |
1,265,376 | 
I know this is a silly question (if not a downright stupid one)
Where can the Fat32 Format utility be downloaded from ?
I obviously tried using Google but the only website I could find was [this](https://en.softonic.com/download/fat32-format/windows)
which was odd considering it's supposedly free
I followed the Download button but the website didn't download anything or display any messages about the Download process
I tried using advanced google search to filter out specific phrases but it didn't work
I have windows 7 ultimate
---
It's not the topic of the question but here's the background story:
I have a 64GB USB drive that is NOT formated to FAT32 file system type, I need to change it to that file system type so that I can make it into a bootable ISO USB drive that is compatible with my computer's old and outdated BIOS (motherboard GR1M-VS3) | 2017/11/04 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/1265376",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/808195/"
] | Figured out.
Installed this:
<https://supportcenter.checkpoint.com/supportcenter/portal/user/anon/page/default.psml/media-type/html?action=portlets.DCFileAction&eventSubmit_doGetdcdetails=&fileid=10655>
Then run Internet Explorer as an Administrator. | You need put extender.dll version 80.0.54.64 to "C:\Windows\Downloaded Program Files"
its works as user, not need rus as admin. |
1,265,376 | 
I know this is a silly question (if not a downright stupid one)
Where can the Fat32 Format utility be downloaded from ?
I obviously tried using Google but the only website I could find was [this](https://en.softonic.com/download/fat32-format/windows)
which was odd considering it's supposedly free
I followed the Download button but the website didn't download anything or display any messages about the Download process
I tried using advanced google search to filter out specific phrases but it didn't work
I have windows 7 ultimate
---
It's not the topic of the question but here's the background story:
I have a 64GB USB drive that is NOT formated to FAT32 file system type, I need to change it to that file system type so that I can make it into a bootable ISO USB drive that is compatible with my computer's old and outdated BIOS (motherboard GR1M-VS3) | 2017/11/04 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/1265376",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/808195/"
] | Sometimes, even after the installation done above, I receive error:
>
> SSL Network Extender is down and could not be started. Consider rebooting the computer (#323)
>
>
>
**Solution:** Computer Management > Restart Check Point SSL Network Extender
* This service must be running  | On Dell Notebooks must be turned off the "Secure Boot" option in BIOS. Then works it. |
1,265,376 | 
I know this is a silly question (if not a downright stupid one)
Where can the Fat32 Format utility be downloaded from ?
I obviously tried using Google but the only website I could find was [this](https://en.softonic.com/download/fat32-format/windows)
which was odd considering it's supposedly free
I followed the Download button but the website didn't download anything or display any messages about the Download process
I tried using advanced google search to filter out specific phrases but it didn't work
I have windows 7 ultimate
---
It's not the topic of the question but here's the background story:
I have a 64GB USB drive that is NOT formated to FAT32 file system type, I need to change it to that file system type so that I can make it into a bootable ISO USB drive that is compatible with my computer's old and outdated BIOS (motherboard GR1M-VS3) | 2017/11/04 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/1265376",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/808195/"
] | Sometimes, even after the installation done above, I receive error:
>
> SSL Network Extender is down and could not be started. Consider rebooting the computer (#323)
>
>
>
**Solution:** Computer Management > Restart Check Point SSL Network Extender
* This service must be running  | You need put extender.dll version 80.0.54.64 to "C:\Windows\Downloaded Program Files"
its works as user, not need rus as admin. |
1,399 | What is the correct way to refer to the Tor hidden services network. "Hidden services" is the name of the technology used (and individual servers), but what is the name of the resulting network and community?
I believe I may have heard something similar to "onionland" long ago.
Example sentence: "Contrary to popular belief, much of the content on X is not illegal at all."
Saying "Tor hidden services network" is too long, so what does one say instead of X? | 2014/01/29 | [
"https://tor.stackexchange.com/questions/1399",
"https://tor.stackexchange.com",
"https://tor.stackexchange.com/users/962/"
] | When you want to talk specifically about Tor Hidden Services, you should write Tor Hidden Services or short Hidden Services. The term hidden services network does not exist, because the hidden services don't form a network. Hidden services usually are standalone services, even though they are connected through the 'Internet'. When there is a set of some random websites, generally nobody calls them a website network. They are considered as stand-alone websites even though they are connected through the 'Internet'.
It you want to talk in broader terms you could use the term *Dark Web*. The Tor trac wiki has a page on the [Dark/Deep web](https://trac.torproject.org/projects/tor/wiki/doc/HowBigIsTheDarkWeb) and defines:
>
> **Dark web**: that portion of the web which cannot be easily reached from the public Internet, and usually requires specialized software to access. Examples of the dark web are the Tor network and hidden services, the I2P network and its eepsites, and the RetroShare network.
>
>
> | Many people refer to this as the "Dark Net" or "Deep Web". There was talk about an "invisible web" back in the 01990's, but recently the Dark Net & Deep Web terms appear to be most prevalently.
It's interesting to notice that "Deep Web" tends to be used more often in the tech community and "Dark Net" tends to be more popular among politicians and news agencies, probably because it sounds more sensational.
Note that this isn't limited to Tor's Hidden Services but would also include I2P and similar projects. |
1,399 | What is the correct way to refer to the Tor hidden services network. "Hidden services" is the name of the technology used (and individual servers), but what is the name of the resulting network and community?
I believe I may have heard something similar to "onionland" long ago.
Example sentence: "Contrary to popular belief, much of the content on X is not illegal at all."
Saying "Tor hidden services network" is too long, so what does one say instead of X? | 2014/01/29 | [
"https://tor.stackexchange.com/questions/1399",
"https://tor.stackexchange.com",
"https://tor.stackexchange.com/users/962/"
] | When you want to talk specifically about Tor Hidden Services, you should write Tor Hidden Services or short Hidden Services. The term hidden services network does not exist, because the hidden services don't form a network. Hidden services usually are standalone services, even though they are connected through the 'Internet'. When there is a set of some random websites, generally nobody calls them a website network. They are considered as stand-alone websites even though they are connected through the 'Internet'.
It you want to talk in broader terms you could use the term *Dark Web*. The Tor trac wiki has a page on the [Dark/Deep web](https://trac.torproject.org/projects/tor/wiki/doc/HowBigIsTheDarkWeb) and defines:
>
> **Dark web**: that portion of the web which cannot be easily reached from the public Internet, and usually requires specialized software to access. Examples of the dark web are the Tor network and hidden services, the I2P network and its eepsites, and the RetroShare network.
>
>
> | Hidden services are part of the Tor onion-routing anonymity network. They are not otherwise part of a network, unless interlinks have specifically been created. And generally, there is no particular community, except as created by link farms and indexing sites that focus on hidden services.
It's best to refer to them as Tor hidden services. |
748 | So the mother of all list-questions was just posted: [What LISP compilers and interpreters were available for 8-bit machines?](https://retrocomputing.stackexchange.com/questions/11192/what-lisp-compilers-and-interpreters-were-available-for-8-bit-machines)
Not only explicitly asking for a list, but with the extra twist of asking about the "LISt Processor"!
Since list questions are simply not suitable or useful for the Stack Exchange format, I voted to close, but no one seems to join me. What's worse is that the first two comments are by diamond mods, one who even wrote in [this answer](https://retrocomputing.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/380/do-we-want-list-questions):
>
> The consensus is that we don't want list questions
>
>
>
In the question [Do we want list questions?](https://retrocomputing.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/380/do-we-want-list-questions) both the highest voted answer and the accepted conclude that **no**, we do not. None of the answers seem to want it and there are no downvotes on the answers. There are numerous reasons and links there so I won't iterate the reasons here, but as you can understand, I still think they are as valid now as when they were written.
Do you disagree? If so, what has changed that made this OK now? | 2019/06/02 | [
"https://retrocomputing.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/748",
"https://retrocomputing.meta.stackexchange.com",
"https://retrocomputing.meta.stackexchange.com/users/333/"
] | Our Diamond Moderator votes are binding. We simply can't vote to close normally on questions; if we want to leave something to a community decision, the most we can do is try to mitigate the damage. The lack of a close vote when a moderator posts a comment is *not* a Super Endorsement of Magical Quality™.
*That being said*, this question is different to most list questions we've had before, because:
* It's on-topic. (Hooray!)
* It's clearly-defined and finite.
* It's not got its own Wikipedia article.
* It has one Community Wiki answer that others can edit.
As you'll be able to see from the post timeline, I tried to apply a Wiki Lock to the question, as is convention for many sites where list questions are allowed. Unfortunately, that disabled voting on the question [for technical reasons](https://meta.stackexchange.com/a/328991/308065), so I removed it again. This lead to two further answers, which might lead to the question getting all messy. But I've got hope that this one could do better than the rest. | >
> Since list questions are simply not suitable or useful for the Stack Exchange format...
>
>
>
This is not an absolute nor self-evident truth, since most sites tolerate a few of them when they are felt to be of sufficient quality and on-topicality.
With good community practices in place and guidance from moderation, an occasional excursion or [Walk on the Wild Side](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walk_on_the_Wild_Side_(Lou_Reed_song)) will not break Stack Exchange, and can generate good quality and useful answers. In some cases making the answer a community Wiki can be productive as well.
Come to think of it, there are probably *almost no absolutes* in Stack Exchange. (see how I tried to word that fairly carefully?) |
36,674 | Most audio circuits are powered with large, heavy transformers and a small ripple after smoothing. SMPS are smaller and more efficient. EMI can be shielded by a metal enclosure and the output filtered for noise suppression.
Especially where the power is going to be further regulated. Why aren't switched-mode power supplies used in audio circuits, eg. power amplifiers, and what improvements can be done to make a SMPS suit an audio circuit? | 2012/07/27 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/36674",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/1380/"
] | A class D amplifier *is* a switching power supply. Those are more common these days and can have quite good specs. Audiophools may wrinkle their noses when they are *told* a amplifier is class D or has a switching power supply inside, but such a thing is harder to detect in a proper double blind test. In the audio world, it can be difficult to separate the science and measurable results from religious belief. | Short:
* SMPS are much used in many audio systems.
* In very top-end enthusiast targeted systems an iron cored transformer based supply may be preferred because of nuances in effect which are so fine that they can only be detected or claimed to be detected by true aficionados.
---
SMPS are regularly used to power audio circuits in many applications.
Most domestic audio equipment probably uses SMPS.
Top end systems for audiophiles may use "iron transformers" because of actual and or perceived benefits. Noise elimination for 50 Hz transformer based supplies is well understood, most of the noise energy is at low frequencies which are a multiple of the main frequency which makes it able to be rejected by notch filter techniques if astoundingly high levels of rejection are desired. The main exception is probably diode switching noise caused by current peaks when the diodes conduct at the peak of the AC waveform, and this can be greatly reduced by spreading resistors and generally good design.
SMPS typically use switching frequencies in the 50 kHz to about 2 MHz range and usually in the few hundred kiloHertz range. These **SHOULD** be even more readily filtered out that than low frequency noise, but rejection levels of amplifier circuitry decrease with increasing frequency and will often be far worse at above 100 kHz compared with at say 10 kHz.
Whether a well designed SMPS supply is any more liable to significantly affect the quality of a top end audio system is open to debate - and much debate has occurred on this subject. BUT if users THINK that SMPS MAY be worse than a traditional supply and/or if suppliers state that they are or may be, or that listening tests have confirmed that they are, then "modern stuff" is liable to be the loser when compared to iron cored supplies - regardless of what the reality may be. |
36,674 | Most audio circuits are powered with large, heavy transformers and a small ripple after smoothing. SMPS are smaller and more efficient. EMI can be shielded by a metal enclosure and the output filtered for noise suppression.
Especially where the power is going to be further regulated. Why aren't switched-mode power supplies used in audio circuits, eg. power amplifiers, and what improvements can be done to make a SMPS suit an audio circuit? | 2012/07/27 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/36674",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/1380/"
] | Short:
* SMPS are much used in many audio systems.
* In very top-end enthusiast targeted systems an iron cored transformer based supply may be preferred because of nuances in effect which are so fine that they can only be detected or claimed to be detected by true aficionados.
---
SMPS are regularly used to power audio circuits in many applications.
Most domestic audio equipment probably uses SMPS.
Top end systems for audiophiles may use "iron transformers" because of actual and or perceived benefits. Noise elimination for 50 Hz transformer based supplies is well understood, most of the noise energy is at low frequencies which are a multiple of the main frequency which makes it able to be rejected by notch filter techniques if astoundingly high levels of rejection are desired. The main exception is probably diode switching noise caused by current peaks when the diodes conduct at the peak of the AC waveform, and this can be greatly reduced by spreading resistors and generally good design.
SMPS typically use switching frequencies in the 50 kHz to about 2 MHz range and usually in the few hundred kiloHertz range. These **SHOULD** be even more readily filtered out that than low frequency noise, but rejection levels of amplifier circuitry decrease with increasing frequency and will often be far worse at above 100 kHz compared with at say 10 kHz.
Whether a well designed SMPS supply is any more liable to significantly affect the quality of a top end audio system is open to debate - and much debate has occurred on this subject. BUT if users THINK that SMPS MAY be worse than a traditional supply and/or if suppliers state that they are or may be, or that listening tests have confirmed that they are, then "modern stuff" is liable to be the loser when compared to iron cored supplies - regardless of what the reality may be. | Cheap mass-produced Switch Mode Power Supplies (SMPS) with poor filtering and bad EMI/RFI rejection have tarnished the reputation of SMPS in the Hi-Fi audio world. It will take some top-quality SMPS in high-end equipment to overcome the damage that has been done. But there is no good reason why SMPS cannot be used to power audio circuits, large and small. |
36,674 | Most audio circuits are powered with large, heavy transformers and a small ripple after smoothing. SMPS are smaller and more efficient. EMI can be shielded by a metal enclosure and the output filtered for noise suppression.
Especially where the power is going to be further regulated. Why aren't switched-mode power supplies used in audio circuits, eg. power amplifiers, and what improvements can be done to make a SMPS suit an audio circuit? | 2012/07/27 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/36674",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/1380/"
] | A class D amplifier *is* a switching power supply. Those are more common these days and can have quite good specs. Audiophools may wrinkle their noses when they are *told* a amplifier is class D or has a switching power supply inside, but such a thing is harder to detect in a proper double blind test. In the audio world, it can be difficult to separate the science and measurable results from religious belief. | Cheap mass-produced Switch Mode Power Supplies (SMPS) with poor filtering and bad EMI/RFI rejection have tarnished the reputation of SMPS in the Hi-Fi audio world. It will take some top-quality SMPS in high-end equipment to overcome the damage that has been done. But there is no good reason why SMPS cannot be used to power audio circuits, large and small. |
36,674 | Most audio circuits are powered with large, heavy transformers and a small ripple after smoothing. SMPS are smaller and more efficient. EMI can be shielded by a metal enclosure and the output filtered for noise suppression.
Especially where the power is going to be further regulated. Why aren't switched-mode power supplies used in audio circuits, eg. power amplifiers, and what improvements can be done to make a SMPS suit an audio circuit? | 2012/07/27 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/36674",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/1380/"
] | Let me give you a little background on myself... I've been working professionally in the audio industry for more than 14 years. I've designed circuits for most of the major pro-audio companies, one audiophile company, and several consumer audio companies. The point is, I've been around and know a lot about how audio is done!
SMPS can and are used for audio circuits! I've used them from sensitive microphone preamps to huge power amplifiers. In fact, for the larger power amplifiers they are mandatory. Once an amplifier gets over a couple of hundred watts then the power supply needs to be super efficient. Imagine the heat produced by a 1000 watt amp if it's power supply was only 50% efficient!
But even on a smaller scale, the efficiency of a SMPS often makes a lot of sense. If the analog circuitry is properly designed then the noise from the power supply gets rejected by the analog circuitry and doesn't impact the audio noise (very much).
For those super-noise-sensitive applications you can do a hybrid approach. Let's say that you have an ADC that requires +5v. You can use a SMPS to generate +6v, then a super-low-noise linear regulator to bring that down to +5v. You get most of the benefit of the SMPS, but the low-noise of the linear regulator. It is not as efficient as just a SMPS, but those are the trade-offs.
But one thing to keep in mind... A SMPS for audio applications needs to be designed with audio in mind. Of course you'll need better filtering on the output. But you will also need to keep other details in mind. For example, at very low current the SMPS might go into something called "burst mode" or "discontinuous mode". Normally a SMPS will switch at a fixed frequency, but in one of these modes the switching will become somewhat erratic. That erratic behavior might push the output noise into the audio frequency band where it becomes more difficult to filter out. Even if the SMPS is normally switching at 1 MHz, when in one of these modes you could get 10 KHz noise. Controlling how this happens depends on the design of the chip that the power supply uses. In some cases, you can't control it. In that case you have no choice but to use a different chip or use a hybrid approach.
Some people advocate using only linear power supplies for audio. While linear supplies are less noisy, they have lots of other issues. Heat, efficiency, and weight being the biggest ones. In my opinion, most of the people who preach linear supplies only are either misinformed or lazy. Misinformed because they don't know how to handle switching supplies or lazy because they don't care to learn how to design robust circuits. I've designed enough audio gear with SMPS to prove that it can be done without too much pain. | Cheap mass-produced Switch Mode Power Supplies (SMPS) with poor filtering and bad EMI/RFI rejection have tarnished the reputation of SMPS in the Hi-Fi audio world. It will take some top-quality SMPS in high-end equipment to overcome the damage that has been done. But there is no good reason why SMPS cannot be used to power audio circuits, large and small. |
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