qid int64 1 74.7M | question stringlengths 12 33.8k | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list | response_j stringlengths 0 115k | response_k stringlengths 2 98.3k |
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9,346,582 | What is the query limit for Yahoo's Finance API? Or where is the documentation that describes the limit?
For all of Yahoo's API's I've only been able to find general documentation for all API's. If you know where the documentation is for Yahoo's Finance API that'd also be appreciated. (I've been searching for a few days on Google, and on Yahoo's API sites, finally turned to friends at SO)
Thanks! | 2012/02/19 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/9346582",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/1001938/"
] | **UPDATE:**
Rate limits in YQL are based on your authentication. If you use IP-based authentication, then you are limited to **2,000 calls/hour/IP** to the **public** YQL Web service URL (/v1/public/*) or **20,000 calls/hour/IP** to the **private** YQL Web service URL (/v1/yql/*) that requires OAuth authorization. See the YQL Web Service URLs for the public and private URLs. Applications (**identified by an Access Key**) are limited to **100,000 calls/day/key\***.
However, in order to make sure the service is available for everyone we ask that you don't call YQL more than 0.2 times/second or 1,000 times/hour for IP authenticated users and 2.7 times/second or 10,000 times/hour. | Yahoo's YQL allows you to query Yahoo! Finance data. Their usage limits are as follows:
* Unauthenticated: up to 1,000 calls/day
* Authenticated: up to 100,000 calls/day
See Yahoo's Query language FAQ for more details at <http://developer.yahoo.com/yql/faq/> |
9,346,582 | What is the query limit for Yahoo's Finance API? Or where is the documentation that describes the limit?
For all of Yahoo's API's I've only been able to find general documentation for all API's. If you know where the documentation is for Yahoo's Finance API that'd also be appreciated. (I've been searching for a few days on Google, and on Yahoo's API sites, finally turned to friends at SO)
Thanks! | 2012/02/19 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/9346582",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/1001938/"
] | See the [Yahoo Query Language Usage Information and Limits](https://developer.yahoo.com/yql/guide/overview.html#usage-information-and-limits) page. This is for all of the YQL APIs, not just the Finance API.
**YQL Rate Limits:**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwxbl.jpg)
What this means:
* Using the Public API (without authentication), you are limited to
2,000 requests per hour per IP (or up to a total of 48,000 requests a day).
* Using the Private API (with OAuth authentication using an [API Key](https://developer.yahoo.com/apps/create/)), you are limited to
20,000 requests per hour per IP and you are limited to 100,000 requests per day per API Key.
*The above answer was originally posted [here](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/5888662/does-yahoo-finance-have-data-request-upper-limit-is-there-an-alternative-or-wor/32913242#32913242) by me.* | Yahoo's YQL allows you to query Yahoo! Finance data. Their usage limits are as follows:
* Unauthenticated: up to 1,000 calls/day
* Authenticated: up to 100,000 calls/day
See Yahoo's Query language FAQ for more details at <http://developer.yahoo.com/yql/faq/> |
9,346,582 | What is the query limit for Yahoo's Finance API? Or where is the documentation that describes the limit?
For all of Yahoo's API's I've only been able to find general documentation for all API's. If you know where the documentation is for Yahoo's Finance API that'd also be appreciated. (I've been searching for a few days on Google, and on Yahoo's API sites, finally turned to friends at SO)
Thanks! | 2012/02/19 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/9346582",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/1001938/"
] | A 2020 update:
* YQL was terminated on Jan, 3, 2019
Because of this, the older answers in the questions are no longer valid.
[Archive has a backup of the link they mention from the day before the shutdown](https://web.archive.org/web/20190102193053/https://developer.yahoo.com/yql/)
You'll probably never need it, the limits have been changed anyway
* Yahoo finance itself was also stopped for a while, but it's available again.
It's located at <https://query1.finance.yahoo.com/v7/finance> (e.g. <https://query1.finance.yahoo.com/v7/finance/quote?symbols=AMZN>)
* I also wondered about the **new** limits but I can't find an official answer. Online everyone seems to have another answer, but it general it boils down "a 4 digit number" every hour when using the unauthenticated (free) version. | Yahoo's YQL allows you to query Yahoo! Finance data. Their usage limits are as follows:
* Unauthenticated: up to 1,000 calls/day
* Authenticated: up to 100,000 calls/day
See Yahoo's Query language FAQ for more details at <http://developer.yahoo.com/yql/faq/> |
9,346,582 | What is the query limit for Yahoo's Finance API? Or where is the documentation that describes the limit?
For all of Yahoo's API's I've only been able to find general documentation for all API's. If you know where the documentation is for Yahoo's Finance API that'd also be appreciated. (I've been searching for a few days on Google, and on Yahoo's API sites, finally turned to friends at SO)
Thanks! | 2012/02/19 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/9346582",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/1001938/"
] | See the [Yahoo Query Language Usage Information and Limits](https://developer.yahoo.com/yql/guide/overview.html#usage-information-and-limits) page. This is for all of the YQL APIs, not just the Finance API.
**YQL Rate Limits:**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwxbl.jpg)
What this means:
* Using the Public API (without authentication), you are limited to
2,000 requests per hour per IP (or up to a total of 48,000 requests a day).
* Using the Private API (with OAuth authentication using an [API Key](https://developer.yahoo.com/apps/create/)), you are limited to
20,000 requests per hour per IP and you are limited to 100,000 requests per day per API Key.
*The above answer was originally posted [here](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/5888662/does-yahoo-finance-have-data-request-upper-limit-is-there-an-alternative-or-wor/32913242#32913242) by me.* | **UPDATE:**
Rate limits in YQL are based on your authentication. If you use IP-based authentication, then you are limited to **2,000 calls/hour/IP** to the **public** YQL Web service URL (/v1/public/*) or **20,000 calls/hour/IP** to the **private** YQL Web service URL (/v1/yql/*) that requires OAuth authorization. See the YQL Web Service URLs for the public and private URLs. Applications (**identified by an Access Key**) are limited to **100,000 calls/day/key\***.
However, in order to make sure the service is available for everyone we ask that you don't call YQL more than 0.2 times/second or 1,000 times/hour for IP authenticated users and 2.7 times/second or 10,000 times/hour. |
9,346,582 | What is the query limit for Yahoo's Finance API? Or where is the documentation that describes the limit?
For all of Yahoo's API's I've only been able to find general documentation for all API's. If you know where the documentation is for Yahoo's Finance API that'd also be appreciated. (I've been searching for a few days on Google, and on Yahoo's API sites, finally turned to friends at SO)
Thanks! | 2012/02/19 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/9346582",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/1001938/"
] | See the [Yahoo Query Language Usage Information and Limits](https://developer.yahoo.com/yql/guide/overview.html#usage-information-and-limits) page. This is for all of the YQL APIs, not just the Finance API.
**YQL Rate Limits:**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwxbl.jpg)
What this means:
* Using the Public API (without authentication), you are limited to
2,000 requests per hour per IP (or up to a total of 48,000 requests a day).
* Using the Private API (with OAuth authentication using an [API Key](https://developer.yahoo.com/apps/create/)), you are limited to
20,000 requests per hour per IP and you are limited to 100,000 requests per day per API Key.
*The above answer was originally posted [here](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/5888662/does-yahoo-finance-have-data-request-upper-limit-is-there-an-alternative-or-wor/32913242#32913242) by me.* | A 2020 update:
* YQL was terminated on Jan, 3, 2019
Because of this, the older answers in the questions are no longer valid.
[Archive has a backup of the link they mention from the day before the shutdown](https://web.archive.org/web/20190102193053/https://developer.yahoo.com/yql/)
You'll probably never need it, the limits have been changed anyway
* Yahoo finance itself was also stopped for a while, but it's available again.
It's located at <https://query1.finance.yahoo.com/v7/finance> (e.g. <https://query1.finance.yahoo.com/v7/finance/quote?symbols=AMZN>)
* I also wondered about the **new** limits but I can't find an official answer. Online everyone seems to have another answer, but it general it boils down "a 4 digit number" every hour when using the unauthenticated (free) version. |
100,594 | I thought it would be easy to find information on this, but it's actually ended up being surprisingly difficult to get concrete information on this.
I worked as a contractor for a number of years, so I've worked with a fair number of managers; it seems like most of the middle managers I've worked with only spend a relatively small amount of time interacting with their subordinates (e.g. during the the morning standup, perhaps a couple of meetings a week). What do middle managers typically do during the time that they're not interacting with their subordinates? Is someone aware of a breakdown of a typical daily or weekly schedule of a middle manager, and exactly what kind of administrative tasks they'd be required to perform?
I know that a lot of them seem to have a lot of meetings, but what kind of meetings do they tend to have and why? | 2017/10/11 | [
"https://workplace.stackexchange.com/questions/100594",
"https://workplace.stackexchange.com",
"https://workplace.stackexchange.com/users/61906/"
] | >
> What do middle managers typically do during the time that they're not
> interacting with their subordinates? Is someone aware of a breakdown
> of a typical daily or weekly schedule of a middle manager, and exactly
> what kind of administrative tasks they'd be required to perform?
>
>
> I know that a lot of them seem to have a lot of meetings, but what
> kind of meetings do they tend to have and why?
>
>
>
I don't think I can speak for "typical", but I can speak for myself.
* I spent around 1-2 hours each day specifically talking and working directly with folks on my team
* I spent some time meeting with my boss
* I spent time meeting with my peers
* I spent time talking with the offshore teams
* I spent a lot of time writing and updating Status Reports for upper management
* I spent time preparing Metrics to report up the management chain
* I spent time approving payroll hours, and vacation requests, and training requests, etc
* I spent time scheduling, rescheduling, and re-rescheduling people and projects in response to a never-ending stream of requests and project changes
* I spent lots of time in project meetings for each of the many projects my team was working on at any given time
* I spent time working as an Individual Contributor on some of the projects
* I spent time hiring - sometimes lots of time - both employees and contractors
* I spent time training new hires and coaching existing team members
* I spent time reviewing the work of folks on my team
* I spent time reviewing the budget, proposing the budget for the upcoming fiscal year, and trying to accommodate the inevitable changes to the budget
* I spent time helping Customer Support when they needed second-level help
* I spent time reviewing Requirements for upcoming projects, and trying to help hammer them into shape before wasting everyone else's time on them
* I spent time talking directly to customers when it was warranted
* I spent time trying to soothe hard feelings when someone on my team clashed with folks outside my team
* I spent time creating and presenting what my team did when others didn't understand, or when someone new came into the company
* I spent time in Corporate Strategy sessions
* I spent a lot of time reading and responding to emails either directed at me or where I was CCed
* I spent time thinking about how to help the team get better in the future
* In some cases, I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to protect and insulate my team from the effects of bad politics occurring within the company at the time
* I spent a little time trying to figure out how I was going to find enough time in a day/week to get everything done | They're managing things, obviously.
Specifically, dealing with all of the crap that comes from higher up in the business and stopping most of it before it hits you.
They're also sugar-coating your results and feeding them upwards.
And they take calls from endless recruiters offering them losers with inappropriate skillsets to work for them.
They also sort their emails into folders and ensure that most of them have a high number of "unread" messages, so that it looks as though they're far too busy to read their emails in lots of different ways. |
581,255 | I am building an FM receiver. My problem is that when powering my antenna circuit or LO circuit one at a time, I get the output of those circuits appearing very strongly on my power supply lines.
When I connect both LO and antenna circuits to power, I get an extremely distorted waveform at the output of either. An FFT shows my amplified antenna frequencies, my LO frequency and a ton of large unintended peaks.
How can I electrically isolate these two circuits from my power supply and each other? Pictures of my setup are included.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYM95.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0aMQ.jpg) | 2021/08/12 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/581255",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/293726/"
] | >
> *My problem is that when powering my antenna circuit or LO circuit one
> at a time, I get the output of those circuits appearing very strongly
> on my power supply lines.*
>
>
>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qait.png)
Relying on electrolytic capacitors to decouple the power lines at circa 100 MHz is naïve. They will become inductors waaaay lower than 100 MHz. Use proper HF decoupling capacitors such as 10 nF. Even SMD ceramic capacitors are not that good if you choose a value that is too high: -
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QLEYh.png)
Image from [here](https://www.murata.com/en-us/products/emc/emifil/library/knowhow/basic/chapter06-p6).
Of course, the problem might be made to appear worse by poor oscilloscope probing techniques such as loops in the earth clip. Breadboard doesn't help either. | It is common practice that you shield the LO to stop it radiating and/or coupling where you don’t want it to. This is done by putting the LO into a box usually made out of tin plate. I’ve been known to use an empty soup can - use tinsnips to cut the can and you should be able to bend and solder it together using a moderately powerful soldering iron. Some newer can may have a plastic coating on the inside which makes the task a bit harder. |
6,862 | Being a climber one aim is to toughen up your hands (related: [How to toughen up hands?](https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/1562/how-to-toughen-up-hands)). Building up callused skin is important but how do you keep it? Having dry hands especially from the climbing itself I suffer from skinning.
**What's the best method to take care of your hands/skin?**
Just use moisturiser or is it better to use those waxes they are selling for climbers pretty expensive? What are the differences and what are general suggestions? | 2014/10/02 | [
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/6862",
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com",
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/users/2653/"
] | Generally you want your skin to be quite tough (this helps you hold onto small/sharp holds), but not too tough.
If you skin get's too thick you get callouses, callouses are thick tough areas of skin. The problem being the skin around the callouse isn't as tough. This means the callouse can be pulled off, called a *flapper*:
To maintain your skin you want to sand down any callouses that get too thick ([see this question](https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/5157/sandpapering-finger-tips/5161#5161))
---
The idea of moisturising is that it keeps the skin elastic and prevents it becoming too tough, i.e. start forming callouses.
Most moisturisers will do this pretty well.
---
The climber specific moisturisers are a little bit marketing a little bit made with climbers in mind.
The waxy bars tend to have a few things in common:
* They smell all extreme and awesome (not traditionally girly), ironically the main brand SorePaw is run by women....make of that what you will
* They don't make your hands slippery but instead coat your hands
* Often made with environmentally friendly materials (natural wax, etc.), climbers tend to be a bit tree hugging
* Good at removing chalk from your skin while moisturising
* Help to massage your hands post climb
Personally I like [ClimbOn](http://skinourishment.com/) or [Sore Paw](http://www.sorepawproducts.moonfruit.com/#/hand-repair-balm/4560249038). I think Sore Paw may be a local company here in the North West of UK. | For the most important kind of care of your hands please read:
* [Can a Finger Pulley injury be predicted / anticipated?](https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/5256/133)
For skin care specifically: I am not hard on my skin, climbing mostly on worn plastic these days and with the local crag being smooth basalt, but when my hands do get a bit overused or dried out I have found O'Keeffe's Working Hands® Cream better than various brands of hand lotion or Bag Balm®. I haven't tried any of the climbing-specific exotics but after using Working Hands I don't feel the need to look for anything else.
I tried Working Hands because it was recommended by other climbers and is available locally.
There are a number of positive reviews in various forums and blogs, e.g.:
* <http://rockclimberlife.com/skin-care-product-review>
>
> Working Hands is by far, the best product of the four reviewed. It is much less expensive than the others, and better overall. Working Hands is not greasy at all. It absorbs quickly, so much so that you could apply this and go climbing soon after. It has no obvious scent. The jar is wide and shallow so it can be applied easily and rubbed into your sore finger tips. In my opinion, the healing properties are the best of the four.
>
>
>
I can't say that I agree with the "go climbing soon after" as chalk won't stay on my hands after recently applying it. |
6,862 | Being a climber one aim is to toughen up your hands (related: [How to toughen up hands?](https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/1562/how-to-toughen-up-hands)). Building up callused skin is important but how do you keep it? Having dry hands especially from the climbing itself I suffer from skinning.
**What's the best method to take care of your hands/skin?**
Just use moisturiser or is it better to use those waxes they are selling for climbers pretty expensive? What are the differences and what are general suggestions? | 2014/10/02 | [
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/6862",
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com",
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/users/2653/"
] | Generally you want your skin to be quite tough (this helps you hold onto small/sharp holds), but not too tough.
If you skin get's too thick you get callouses, callouses are thick tough areas of skin. The problem being the skin around the callouse isn't as tough. This means the callouse can be pulled off, called a *flapper*:
To maintain your skin you want to sand down any callouses that get too thick ([see this question](https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/5157/sandpapering-finger-tips/5161#5161))
---
The idea of moisturising is that it keeps the skin elastic and prevents it becoming too tough, i.e. start forming callouses.
Most moisturisers will do this pretty well.
---
The climber specific moisturisers are a little bit marketing a little bit made with climbers in mind.
The waxy bars tend to have a few things in common:
* They smell all extreme and awesome (not traditionally girly), ironically the main brand SorePaw is run by women....make of that what you will
* They don't make your hands slippery but instead coat your hands
* Often made with environmentally friendly materials (natural wax, etc.), climbers tend to be a bit tree hugging
* Good at removing chalk from your skin while moisturising
* Help to massage your hands post climb
Personally I like [ClimbOn](http://skinourishment.com/) or [Sore Paw](http://www.sorepawproducts.moonfruit.com/#/hand-repair-balm/4560249038). I think Sore Paw may be a local company here in the North West of UK. | Being a climber (mostly indoor these days) with a lifetime of eczema on my hands, and some nasty flapper experiences (and a pulley injury), I've done lots of research into this! So lots of mentions of product, but I'm not getting handouts ;)
RE. Moisturisers. I think this is a very personal decision about the type, frequency and timing. I'm a big fan of unscented Neutrogena Norwegian Formula concentrated hand cream for my day-to-day moisturiser. I'm trying Ultrabalm from the smelly shop Lush as it's all nice and natural. I've also got a jar of the O'Keeffe's but I'm still getting used to it. Plus what the doctor ordered for the eczema.
However, after a chalky, skin-shredding bouldering session, I'll:
* Wash my hands throughly in warm water.
* Apply moisturiser thickly and leave it to sink in
* Try to do as little as possible with my hands for the next 20 mins or so. Gripping a nice glass of your favourite cool beverage can feel great ;)
* Reapply moisturiser when needed. This is also when I do some serious tendon massage on my recovering finger.
So, the other thing is I also swim. And post swimming is when I file my calluses to make tidy, flat calluses which are less likely to rip.
I picked up this fake-pumice [hard skin remover from Lloyds chemis](http://www.lloydspharmacy.com/en/lloydspharmacy-hard-skin-remover-17850)t - (in the UK). I haven't tried sandpaper, but this works really for me. The slightly curved edges give it a variety of shapes for the different bits of callused hand, and it's not too tough to remove live skin, but still nice and grind-y on the hard bits.
Just sticking to this routine seems to help. Hope this is useful! |
6,862 | Being a climber one aim is to toughen up your hands (related: [How to toughen up hands?](https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/1562/how-to-toughen-up-hands)). Building up callused skin is important but how do you keep it? Having dry hands especially from the climbing itself I suffer from skinning.
**What's the best method to take care of your hands/skin?**
Just use moisturiser or is it better to use those waxes they are selling for climbers pretty expensive? What are the differences and what are general suggestions? | 2014/10/02 | [
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/6862",
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com",
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/users/2653/"
] | Generally you want your skin to be quite tough (this helps you hold onto small/sharp holds), but not too tough.
If you skin get's too thick you get callouses, callouses are thick tough areas of skin. The problem being the skin around the callouse isn't as tough. This means the callouse can be pulled off, called a *flapper*:
To maintain your skin you want to sand down any callouses that get too thick ([see this question](https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/5157/sandpapering-finger-tips/5161#5161))
---
The idea of moisturising is that it keeps the skin elastic and prevents it becoming too tough, i.e. start forming callouses.
Most moisturisers will do this pretty well.
---
The climber specific moisturisers are a little bit marketing a little bit made with climbers in mind.
The waxy bars tend to have a few things in common:
* They smell all extreme and awesome (not traditionally girly), ironically the main brand SorePaw is run by women....make of that what you will
* They don't make your hands slippery but instead coat your hands
* Often made with environmentally friendly materials (natural wax, etc.), climbers tend to be a bit tree hugging
* Good at removing chalk from your skin while moisturising
* Help to massage your hands post climb
Personally I like [ClimbOn](http://skinourishment.com/) or [Sore Paw](http://www.sorepawproducts.moonfruit.com/#/hand-repair-balm/4560249038). I think Sore Paw may be a local company here in the North West of UK. | I have experience with calloused fingers from playing a string instrument.
Moisturizers, if overused, will inhibit the formation of callous, which protects the skin.
If the callous is too thick and you are losing some of the sensitivity you need for perception, you can file it gently with an emery board or metal file intended for fingernails.
You can also do some gentle filing to smooth any sharp edges or bumps.
To build protective callous you have to expose your skin to the same type of stress, on a regular basis, and go easy until the callous is well established (i.e. reduce your practice session).
Possibly (but I'm not a climber), you could use a product from the drug store billed as preventing blisters, or athletic tape, or paper tape, during a climbing session when you feel your callous is not well established yet. |
6,862 | Being a climber one aim is to toughen up your hands (related: [How to toughen up hands?](https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/1562/how-to-toughen-up-hands)). Building up callused skin is important but how do you keep it? Having dry hands especially from the climbing itself I suffer from skinning.
**What's the best method to take care of your hands/skin?**
Just use moisturiser or is it better to use those waxes they are selling for climbers pretty expensive? What are the differences and what are general suggestions? | 2014/10/02 | [
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/6862",
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com",
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/users/2653/"
] | For the most important kind of care of your hands please read:
* [Can a Finger Pulley injury be predicted / anticipated?](https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/5256/133)
For skin care specifically: I am not hard on my skin, climbing mostly on worn plastic these days and with the local crag being smooth basalt, but when my hands do get a bit overused or dried out I have found O'Keeffe's Working Hands® Cream better than various brands of hand lotion or Bag Balm®. I haven't tried any of the climbing-specific exotics but after using Working Hands I don't feel the need to look for anything else.
I tried Working Hands because it was recommended by other climbers and is available locally.
There are a number of positive reviews in various forums and blogs, e.g.:
* <http://rockclimberlife.com/skin-care-product-review>
>
> Working Hands is by far, the best product of the four reviewed. It is much less expensive than the others, and better overall. Working Hands is not greasy at all. It absorbs quickly, so much so that you could apply this and go climbing soon after. It has no obvious scent. The jar is wide and shallow so it can be applied easily and rubbed into your sore finger tips. In my opinion, the healing properties are the best of the four.
>
>
>
I can't say that I agree with the "go climbing soon after" as chalk won't stay on my hands after recently applying it. | I have experience with calloused fingers from playing a string instrument.
Moisturizers, if overused, will inhibit the formation of callous, which protects the skin.
If the callous is too thick and you are losing some of the sensitivity you need for perception, you can file it gently with an emery board or metal file intended for fingernails.
You can also do some gentle filing to smooth any sharp edges or bumps.
To build protective callous you have to expose your skin to the same type of stress, on a regular basis, and go easy until the callous is well established (i.e. reduce your practice session).
Possibly (but I'm not a climber), you could use a product from the drug store billed as preventing blisters, or athletic tape, or paper tape, during a climbing session when you feel your callous is not well established yet. |
6,862 | Being a climber one aim is to toughen up your hands (related: [How to toughen up hands?](https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/1562/how-to-toughen-up-hands)). Building up callused skin is important but how do you keep it? Having dry hands especially from the climbing itself I suffer from skinning.
**What's the best method to take care of your hands/skin?**
Just use moisturiser or is it better to use those waxes they are selling for climbers pretty expensive? What are the differences and what are general suggestions? | 2014/10/02 | [
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/6862",
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com",
"https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/users/2653/"
] | Being a climber (mostly indoor these days) with a lifetime of eczema on my hands, and some nasty flapper experiences (and a pulley injury), I've done lots of research into this! So lots of mentions of product, but I'm not getting handouts ;)
RE. Moisturisers. I think this is a very personal decision about the type, frequency and timing. I'm a big fan of unscented Neutrogena Norwegian Formula concentrated hand cream for my day-to-day moisturiser. I'm trying Ultrabalm from the smelly shop Lush as it's all nice and natural. I've also got a jar of the O'Keeffe's but I'm still getting used to it. Plus what the doctor ordered for the eczema.
However, after a chalky, skin-shredding bouldering session, I'll:
* Wash my hands throughly in warm water.
* Apply moisturiser thickly and leave it to sink in
* Try to do as little as possible with my hands for the next 20 mins or so. Gripping a nice glass of your favourite cool beverage can feel great ;)
* Reapply moisturiser when needed. This is also when I do some serious tendon massage on my recovering finger.
So, the other thing is I also swim. And post swimming is when I file my calluses to make tidy, flat calluses which are less likely to rip.
I picked up this fake-pumice [hard skin remover from Lloyds chemis](http://www.lloydspharmacy.com/en/lloydspharmacy-hard-skin-remover-17850)t - (in the UK). I haven't tried sandpaper, but this works really for me. The slightly curved edges give it a variety of shapes for the different bits of callused hand, and it's not too tough to remove live skin, but still nice and grind-y on the hard bits.
Just sticking to this routine seems to help. Hope this is useful! | I have experience with calloused fingers from playing a string instrument.
Moisturizers, if overused, will inhibit the formation of callous, which protects the skin.
If the callous is too thick and you are losing some of the sensitivity you need for perception, you can file it gently with an emery board or metal file intended for fingernails.
You can also do some gentle filing to smooth any sharp edges or bumps.
To build protective callous you have to expose your skin to the same type of stress, on a regular basis, and go easy until the callous is well established (i.e. reduce your practice session).
Possibly (but I'm not a climber), you could use a product from the drug store billed as preventing blisters, or athletic tape, or paper tape, during a climbing session when you feel your callous is not well established yet. |
425,407 | Introduction
------------
I'm toying with the design for a fail-safe wall clock controlled by multiple 32.768kHz crystal oscillators. I'm currently reading about compensation.
Compensator from literature
---------------------------
From what I read (e.g. this paper, [Design Technique for Analog Temperature Compensation of
Crystal Oscillators](http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.11.2410&rep=rep1&type=pdf)) crystal stability over temperature is cubic at best:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jNe4R.png)
In that paper, Haney suggests the following compensation circuit:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YY3i8.png)
It's interesting, but I have my misgivings. I'm comparing that to a "dumb" design based on microcontroller lookup table compensation. In my estimation, the comparison basically goes like this:
Analog compensation advantages
------------------------------
* Less reliance on digital circuitry
* Decreased cost of microcontroller
* Less noise generated by digital traces
* Analogue circuitry has infinite resolution, whereas LUT and ADC have limited resolution
* No ADC error introduced (quantisation, linearity, etc.)
* Less dependence on characterisation than LUT; LUT needs better sample size
* Analogue compensation is instant(ish); digital compensation has latency
LUT compensation advantages
---------------------------
* Analogue components have their own tolerances and temperature drift characteristics, and that effect snowballs with increased analogue circuit complexity; this approach has fewer analogue components
* Decreased cost from analogue components
* Decreased analogue circuit complexity means fewer potential points of failure
* Less dependence on analogue analysis
* Less analogue component cost
* 2D LUT can compensate for both temperature and supply voltage variation; circuit above would need additional complexity to compensate for supply voltage, esp. when battery-driven
Questions
---------
* Are there any inaccuracies or gaps in the list above?
* Are there any simpler approaches to analogue crystal temperature compensation than the one presented by Haney? Would it be worth combining that with a LUT?
As a sidenote, it turns out that there are [many](https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/crystals-oscillators-resonators/oscillators/172?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&pv183=81&pv183=7780&pv183=7627&pv183=9611&pv183=2752&pv183=9612&pv183=8223&pv183=6356&pv183=2926&pv183=2633&pv183=7451&pv183=2628&pv183=2629&pv183=2630&sf=0&FV=1f140000%2Cffe000ac%2C1c0001%2C1c0011%2C1c0002%2C1c00fa%2C1c0003%2C1c0006%2C1c003d%2C1c003e%2C1c0008&quantity=10&ColumnSort=1000011&page=1&stock=1&pageSize=25) integrated VCTCXO (voltage-compensating, temperature-compensating) devices out there, and this is probably what I'll end up using. | 2019/03/03 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/425407",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/10008/"
] | Inaccuracies
============
>
> Analogue compensation is instant(ish); digital compensation has latency
>
>
>
An analog control scheme of course also has latency; especially so since the noise characteristics might require you to do some careful bandwidth limiting in the control loops. The ADC conversion time might be negligible compared to that.
Anyway, might be irrelevant: since temperature changes are relatively slow due to thermal mass, my guess is that the latency is pretty irrelevant for most systems' needs.
>
> Analogue circuitry has infinite resolution, whereas LUT and ADC have limited resolution
>
>
>
Need to be careful with "infinite resolution", because that implies that an analog system can distinguish values to an arbitrary precision, where in reality, all analog systems are subject to noise. There's rich theory on how noise reduces the amount of information that flows through a system, and how quantization does (the latter is easy).
>
> 2D LUT can compensate for both temperature and supply voltage variation; circuit above would need additional complexity to compensate for supply voltage, esp. when battery-driven
>
>
>
You'd still need a voltage reference for any ADC to deliver meaningful values.
Simpler approaches
==================
Buy a ready-made TCXO ([example](https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/fox-electronics/FT5HNBPK16.0-T1/631-1071-2-ND/1024663)) or even an oven-controlled oscillator (OCXO; it is a crystal in a small oven to keep the temperature constant). | AT-cut crystals may have 3rd-order temperature profiles as outlined by OP, but tuning-fork 32768 crystals most often have a far different 2nd-order temperature profile, something like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VaC7c.jpg)
from IQD datasheet LFXTAL062558Reel.pdf
---
In addition, these tuning-fork crystals should be driven with much less power than AT-cut crystals. Resonant drive level might be 0.1 uW versus up to 100 uW for AT-cut. If you overdrive a crystal, frequency stability is degraded and spurious crystal resonances may take over.
A low drive level means oscillator noise power may become important. |
102,632 | In Windows 7 I was connected wirelessly for about a week when one day I came home and the wireless was connected with a strong signal but it said that I had "No Internet Access"
It's been 3 days since then now and I have yet to find a way to fix it.
My wireless drivers are right off the disk that came with the wireless card.
Can anyone help me?
My problem is similar to these:
<http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7589_102-0.html?threadID=120346>
<http://social.answers.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7network/thread/90841fe7-c910-424b-82d7-48be7ef69f39> | 2010/01/30 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/102632",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/45993/"
] | Perhaps you deactivated the dhcp function somehow.
Try this to reactivate it:
1. open the Control Panel
2. click at View network status and tasks
3. In the view your active networks-part click at your wireless network connection
4. (if you see "IPv4 Connectivity = Internet" then you should be connected - check your router) if not: click at properties
5. Click at Internet Protocoll Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) and then at Properties
6. There check if "Obtain an IP address automatically" and "Obtain DNS server address automatically" are selected - if not, select them.
7. Click OK, Close, Close and check if the internet-connection is back now.
If it still doesn't work, please press WindowsKey+R, enter cmd, press ok, enter ipconfig /all press enter and post the information for the wireless adapter here. | This simple way can solve 2 possible issues: your firewall is blocking the connection or a problem related to IP or DNS adress.
1. click on the wireless connection icon in left lower corner.
2. Select the connected wifi that has an issue.
3. click "status"
4. under the section "activity" click "properties"
5. you will see several check box. uncheck the one of your firewall if you believe it could be the problem (you can check it again after).
6. select the line TCP/ip (if you have 2 protocol version, do it twice) and click "properties"
7. "obtain X automatically" must be check for both IP and DNS adress (I had a DNS adress writen that causes my issue ― any idea where it came from?)
8. check if you can acess to your websites
Credit to:
<http://ccm.net/forum/affich-487006-wireless-connected-but-no-internet-access> |
102,632 | In Windows 7 I was connected wirelessly for about a week when one day I came home and the wireless was connected with a strong signal but it said that I had "No Internet Access"
It's been 3 days since then now and I have yet to find a way to fix it.
My wireless drivers are right off the disk that came with the wireless card.
Can anyone help me?
My problem is similar to these:
<http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7589_102-0.html?threadID=120346>
<http://social.answers.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7network/thread/90841fe7-c910-424b-82d7-48be7ef69f39> | 2010/01/30 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/102632",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/45993/"
] | Perhaps you deactivated the dhcp function somehow.
Try this to reactivate it:
1. open the Control Panel
2. click at View network status and tasks
3. In the view your active networks-part click at your wireless network connection
4. (if you see "IPv4 Connectivity = Internet" then you should be connected - check your router) if not: click at properties
5. Click at Internet Protocoll Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) and then at Properties
6. There check if "Obtain an IP address automatically" and "Obtain DNS server address automatically" are selected - if not, select them.
7. Click OK, Close, Close and check if the internet-connection is back now.
If it still doesn't work, please press WindowsKey+R, enter cmd, press ok, enter ipconfig /all press enter and post the information for the wireless adapter here. | I have the same problem, and it was solved by forgetting the WiFi network and reconnect to it. |
102,632 | In Windows 7 I was connected wirelessly for about a week when one day I came home and the wireless was connected with a strong signal but it said that I had "No Internet Access"
It's been 3 days since then now and I have yet to find a way to fix it.
My wireless drivers are right off the disk that came with the wireless card.
Can anyone help me?
My problem is similar to these:
<http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7589_102-0.html?threadID=120346>
<http://social.answers.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7network/thread/90841fe7-c910-424b-82d7-48be7ef69f39> | 2010/01/30 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/102632",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/45993/"
] | I've had the same problem but solved it.
My Windows 7 laptop could access to the internet through my D-link router in about several days, then it suddenly said that it had no internet access although it had the connection with the router and the signal strength was excellent. I tried all of the solutions above and from other sources but they all didn't help.
Then I got notice of the Wireless LAN adapter *Wireless Network Connection 2* which I have not seen before. My wireless LAN adapter is named *Wireless Network Connection* and it is functioning. Then I tried to disable the Wireless LAN adapter *Wireless Network Connection 2* and it just... worked!
I do not know if this is a long-term solution to this problem because the Wireless LAN adapter *Wireless Network Connection 2* is still there although disabled. | This simple way can solve 2 possible issues: your firewall is blocking the connection or a problem related to IP or DNS adress.
1. click on the wireless connection icon in left lower corner.
2. Select the connected wifi that has an issue.
3. click "status"
4. under the section "activity" click "properties"
5. you will see several check box. uncheck the one of your firewall if you believe it could be the problem (you can check it again after).
6. select the line TCP/ip (if you have 2 protocol version, do it twice) and click "properties"
7. "obtain X automatically" must be check for both IP and DNS adress (I had a DNS adress writen that causes my issue ― any idea where it came from?)
8. check if you can acess to your websites
Credit to:
<http://ccm.net/forum/affich-487006-wireless-connected-but-no-internet-access> |
102,632 | In Windows 7 I was connected wirelessly for about a week when one day I came home and the wireless was connected with a strong signal but it said that I had "No Internet Access"
It's been 3 days since then now and I have yet to find a way to fix it.
My wireless drivers are right off the disk that came with the wireless card.
Can anyone help me?
My problem is similar to these:
<http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7589_102-0.html?threadID=120346>
<http://social.answers.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7network/thread/90841fe7-c910-424b-82d7-48be7ef69f39> | 2010/01/30 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/102632",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/45993/"
] | I've had the same problem but solved it.
My Windows 7 laptop could access to the internet through my D-link router in about several days, then it suddenly said that it had no internet access although it had the connection with the router and the signal strength was excellent. I tried all of the solutions above and from other sources but they all didn't help.
Then I got notice of the Wireless LAN adapter *Wireless Network Connection 2* which I have not seen before. My wireless LAN adapter is named *Wireless Network Connection* and it is functioning. Then I tried to disable the Wireless LAN adapter *Wireless Network Connection 2* and it just... worked!
I do not know if this is a long-term solution to this problem because the Wireless LAN adapter *Wireless Network Connection 2* is still there although disabled. | I have the same problem, and it was solved by forgetting the WiFi network and reconnect to it. |
102,632 | In Windows 7 I was connected wirelessly for about a week when one day I came home and the wireless was connected with a strong signal but it said that I had "No Internet Access"
It's been 3 days since then now and I have yet to find a way to fix it.
My wireless drivers are right off the disk that came with the wireless card.
Can anyone help me?
My problem is similar to these:
<http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7589_102-0.html?threadID=120346>
<http://social.answers.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7network/thread/90841fe7-c910-424b-82d7-48be7ef69f39> | 2010/01/30 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/102632",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/45993/"
] | Unplug your router for at least a minute. (This will hard reset the router.) Then try to reconnect. This usually works for me. What happens sometimes with wireless is your computer will lose connection and try to reconnect with to the router with the same IP address. It connects with a conflict and the router denies access. | This simple way can solve 2 possible issues: your firewall is blocking the connection or a problem related to IP or DNS adress.
1. click on the wireless connection icon in left lower corner.
2. Select the connected wifi that has an issue.
3. click "status"
4. under the section "activity" click "properties"
5. you will see several check box. uncheck the one of your firewall if you believe it could be the problem (you can check it again after).
6. select the line TCP/ip (if you have 2 protocol version, do it twice) and click "properties"
7. "obtain X automatically" must be check for both IP and DNS adress (I had a DNS adress writen that causes my issue ― any idea where it came from?)
8. check if you can acess to your websites
Credit to:
<http://ccm.net/forum/affich-487006-wireless-connected-but-no-internet-access> |
102,632 | In Windows 7 I was connected wirelessly for about a week when one day I came home and the wireless was connected with a strong signal but it said that I had "No Internet Access"
It's been 3 days since then now and I have yet to find a way to fix it.
My wireless drivers are right off the disk that came with the wireless card.
Can anyone help me?
My problem is similar to these:
<http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7589_102-0.html?threadID=120346>
<http://social.answers.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7network/thread/90841fe7-c910-424b-82d7-48be7ef69f39> | 2010/01/30 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/102632",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/45993/"
] | Unplug your router for at least a minute. (This will hard reset the router.) Then try to reconnect. This usually works for me. What happens sometimes with wireless is your computer will lose connection and try to reconnect with to the router with the same IP address. It connects with a conflict and the router denies access. | I have the same problem, and it was solved by forgetting the WiFi network and reconnect to it. |
89,316 | I'm currently developing a AES implementation in a graduation project at university.
As far as I know, AES uses a 128 bit block length as input .
if the entered string to encrypt is not 128 bits such as 32 bits .
what should be done for data that is less than 128 bits ? What's the best solution ? | 2021/04/11 | [
"https://crypto.stackexchange.com/questions/89316",
"https://crypto.stackexchange.com",
"https://crypto.stackexchange.com/users/89457/"
] | It really depends on the block mode that you are going to use. If you want to use something like [CBC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Block_cipher_mode_of_operation#Cipher_block_chaining_(CBC)), have a look into [PKCS#7](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Padding_(cryptography)#PKCS#5_and_PKCS#7). If you were to use [CTR](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Block_cipher_mode_of_operation#Counter_(CTR)) mode, then you do not require any padding, as the input will always be in chunks of 16 bytes, and you use as much of it as you require. | JoJoTheCodeDude's answer is correct. I just want to add some detail which may clear up some possible misunderstandings and followup questions.
AES is a block cipher. Contrary to the name Advanced *Encryption* Standard, it's not actually useful for practical encryption of anything. That's because, like any block cipher, it can safely encrypt exactly one block of data with any given key before the key must be changed. Since changing the key is slow and requires some way to get the next key to the recipient this isn't particularly practical. So block ciphers (including AES) MUST be used in a "Mode of Operation" for practical secure encryption.
Speaking of security, there are several notions of security. There's security against chosen-plaintext attacks (IND-CPA), security against chosen-ciphertext attacks of various sorts (IND-CCA1, IND-CCA2, IND-CCA3 AKA AE-Secure), and a few more niche notions. Different modes of operation provide different levels of security.
CBC mode and CTR mode (mentioned before) provide IND-CPA security only. If an attacker can modify ciphertexts, they're not secure. To make them secure, ciphertext authentication is needed.
To make CBC secure, it's common to MAC the ciphertext using HMAC-SHA256. If the tag from the MAC doesn't verify successfully, the recipient discards the ciphertext instead of decrypting. This construction is IND-CCA2 secure.
CTR is typically used as part of a more advanced Authenticated Encryption mode. These modes are IND-CCA3 secure. [Galois/Counter Mode](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galois/Counter_Mode) is common. [GCM-SIV](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AES-GCM-SIV) is more secure against accidental nonce reuse, but less commonly available. [OCB](https://www.cs.ucdavis.edu/%7Erogaway/ocb/index.html) mode recently went out of patent, and is substantially faster than GCM. |
30,645,953 | I Have a .jpg file encoded ANSI, I tried converting it to UTF-8 but it made the image corrupt.
NOTE: if you have a solution for any other image format, please post them. | 2015/06/04 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/30645953",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/3045026/"
] | I can suggest you base64 encoding, which will enconde files in text for you. Though I am not familiar with the algorithm itself, I can present several websites that do it for you:
* <https://www.base64-image.de/>
* <http://www.askapache.com/online-tools/base64-image-converter/>
* <http://www.dailycoding.com/utils/converter/imagetobase64.aspx>
Adidtionaly, you can also use such images in your own website by adding them to the HTML. The following answer has some good information regarding this method:
* [Embedding Base64 Images](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/1207190/embedding-base64-images) | It can be done in NotePad++ easily:
1. Open binary image file into Notepad++
2. Select all text (ex: Ctrl-A)
3. Go to Plugins->MIMETools->Base64 Encode
Now file shows in Base64 characters instead of binary
Reference:
<https://www.technipages.com/how-to-base64-encode-and-decode-in-notepad> |
44,716 | For example, doing a [wall sit](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wall_sit) followed by [squat jumps](https://gethealthyu.com/exercise/squat-jumps/).
Seen this pattern many times in workouts, and it indeed feels effective. I would like to read more about it but don't know what it's called and [explosive isometrics](https://www.elitefts.com/education/training/explosive-isometrics-speed-training-with-the-brakes-on/) seems to mean something else. | 2022/01/02 | [
"https://fitness.stackexchange.com/questions/44716",
"https://fitness.stackexchange.com",
"https://fitness.stackexchange.com/users/37493/"
] | If you enjoy this programming concept, go for it. However, keep in mind that in the fitness world, the gurus are under constant pressure to produce new tricks. How about squat jumps with a kettlebell swing? How about a squat jump and then you grab on to a pull bar and do fifteen pull ups (which I saw recently)? How about a squat jump and in the air you throw a medicine ball to a friend who catches it and throws it back? How about a squat jump with a resistance band around your knees? Anyone can make this stuff up.
As far as scientific research, I can pretty much guarantee that no one has done research on this type of "explosive isometrics" (or whatever you call it). The reason I can say this is that it would take a year or two to produce a research paper on the topic, and by that time the fitness world will have moved on to something new. Researchers can't possibly keep up with the latest bells and whistles that the Youtube gurus come up with. My point is don't expect anyone to have solid information about this topic.
So, have fun with it. I predict you'll try it for a few weeks and then move on. Let us know how it goes! | If it feels like it works it probably does.
Do it often and get the most out of it. A static demand leads to adaptations biased towards static strength, which should directly oppose explosive movement, thus your body develops more of the ability to overcome its own rigidity. Doing the opposite sequence should require the body to get control of the dynamic stuff going on in the body.
If it works it works. Give it a month and do it 6x a week ha. See how your performance improves right after and a week after this leg intensive training. Test before and after training it diligently with a few agility tests such as the 5 - 0 - 5, strength test for 1 rep max, and an endurance test for body weight ATG squat count within 10 minutes or something. |
44,716 | For example, doing a [wall sit](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wall_sit) followed by [squat jumps](https://gethealthyu.com/exercise/squat-jumps/).
Seen this pattern many times in workouts, and it indeed feels effective. I would like to read more about it but don't know what it's called and [explosive isometrics](https://www.elitefts.com/education/training/explosive-isometrics-speed-training-with-the-brakes-on/) seems to mean something else. | 2022/01/02 | [
"https://fitness.stackexchange.com/questions/44716",
"https://fitness.stackexchange.com",
"https://fitness.stackexchange.com/users/37493/"
] | Based on the question provided, I can't really tell what the stated goal is, but *what it sounds like to me* is a form of [pre-exhaustion training](https://www.slt-leisure.co.uk/news/pre%20exhaust%20training%20for%20quicker%20progress%20in%20the%20gym/).
Pre-exhaustion training is basically doing an isolation movement of some kind to weaken (pre-exhaust) a targeted set of muscle groups before moving on to a compound muscle group, or in this case a static movement used to pre-exhaust before moving to the dynamic movement. The end result is the secondary movement itself is more difficult, and in some cases, weaker muscle groups will be more utilized because the dominating muscle group is now too weak to compensate. In theory, this will maximize muscle recruitment while simultaneously making the exercise safer because you'd be using less weight and/or less reps.
[It is a common technique used in advanced lifters](https://barbend.com/pre-exhaust-training/) to make a compound movements more effective with less weight. It's also used to weaken dominant muscle groups so the targeted muscle groups can be better used. For example, I've been training in powerlifting for many years, so my traps have a tendency to take over when doing something like dumbell lateral raises. I want to do lateral raises to target my shoulders, so I can do really high-volume shrugs to "pre-exhaust" my traps so I'm forced to use my shoulders during the lateral raises.
---
In this specific case, in mixing wall-sits with squat jumps, it could be the coach that wrote the program is wanting you to pre-exhaust your legs and glutes with the wall-sits. Then it would require more muscle recruitment to get the same kind of force during the squat jumps.
Or (s)he simply wanted to add more volume to the set so you only have to do half the amount of squat jumps. | If it feels like it works it probably does.
Do it often and get the most out of it. A static demand leads to adaptations biased towards static strength, which should directly oppose explosive movement, thus your body develops more of the ability to overcome its own rigidity. Doing the opposite sequence should require the body to get control of the dynamic stuff going on in the body.
If it works it works. Give it a month and do it 6x a week ha. See how your performance improves right after and a week after this leg intensive training. Test before and after training it diligently with a few agility tests such as the 5 - 0 - 5, strength test for 1 rep max, and an endurance test for body weight ATG squat count within 10 minutes or something. |
68,019,914 | I am converting a .Net core 2.1 project to .Net standard project. In .Net core 2.1 project, there was a Nuget package : System.Data.SqlClient (Contains class SqlConnection). This Nuget package and so class SqlConnection is not available in .Net Standard.
Is there any alternative to use SqlConnection in .Net standard? | 2021/06/17 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/68019914",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/7324311/"
] | >
> This Nuget package and so class SqlConnection is not available in .Net Standard
>
>
>
Yes, it is; expand Dependencies [here](https://www.nuget.org/packages/System.Data.SqlClient), and you should see that it includes targets for .NET Standard 1.2, .NET Standard 1.3, and .NET Standard 2.0; in your case, the latter should be selected automatically.
There is also the related-but-different Microsoft.Data.SqlClient package, [here](https://www.nuget.org/packages/Microsoft.Data.SqlClient), which has targets for .NET Standard 2.0 and .NET Standard 2.1
That said: honestly, you're probably better off avoiding .NET Standard at this point, and just move to a recent .NET Core (or later) version, ideally .NET 5. | Yes, there is a version for System.Data.SqlClient
Maybe you need to try work with Entity Framework to get the reference or in any case you can work with ADO.NET but there is a reference. |
68,019,914 | I am converting a .Net core 2.1 project to .Net standard project. In .Net core 2.1 project, there was a Nuget package : System.Data.SqlClient (Contains class SqlConnection). This Nuget package and so class SqlConnection is not available in .Net Standard.
Is there any alternative to use SqlConnection in .Net standard? | 2021/06/17 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/68019914",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/7324311/"
] | >
> This Nuget package and so class SqlConnection is not available in .Net Standard
>
>
>
Yes, it is; expand Dependencies [here](https://www.nuget.org/packages/System.Data.SqlClient), and you should see that it includes targets for .NET Standard 1.2, .NET Standard 1.3, and .NET Standard 2.0; in your case, the latter should be selected automatically.
There is also the related-but-different Microsoft.Data.SqlClient package, [here](https://www.nuget.org/packages/Microsoft.Data.SqlClient), which has targets for .NET Standard 2.0 and .NET Standard 2.1
That said: honestly, you're probably better off avoiding .NET Standard at this point, and just move to a recent .NET Core (or later) version, ideally .NET 5. | I installed System.Data.Client through command line. It surprisingly installed. May be there was some issue with nuget. |
634,498 | I have two new electric motors for a Valet Vacuum System. Unfortunately, the photos I took of the old motor setup (which was a few months ago) I have lost off my phone.
The new motors are slightly different in appearance from the original ones which burnt out.
I am unsure of how to rewire this back up again.
1. My assumption is that it doesn't matter which of the black wires on the motor itself is used for neg and pos, as long as both motors spin in the same direction.
2. I am confused about why the white little box (which I am assuming is a resistor) is on both motors. Is this a resistor? If so, why is it on the new motors but not the old? What is its purpose in this setup?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YwsSD.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Wa18.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qa91I.png) | 2022/09/12 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/634498",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/321744/"
] | >
> To sum this up, I **can design the antenna** with 1.5 kΩ **to match** the IC
> input impedance of 1.5 kΩ. I understand 50 Ω would be needed if I were
> using a 50 coax or stripline, but the trace is around 1 inch. The
> antenna connection would be direct, no SMA or BNC (since those are 50
> Ω).
>
>
>
You are doing it backwards. First design the antenna the way you want it, then match its impedance to the IC for best performance (ie. highest gain and selectivity). So the question you should be asking is, "What is the impedance of the antenna I **want** to use?"
Generally you also want a tuned circuit to help reject out of band interference and image frequencies. This provides an easy way to match any antenna impedance via a tapped coil, extra winding or series capacitors. | If you place a 50 resistor across the connection point or across the input to the chip, you will be fine. You definitely need the 50 ohm termination for maximum power transfer.
Edit: Impedance of free space is 300 ohms. I haven't tried to match to 1.5k.
I guess to answer your question, "Yes you still need a matching network." The antenna is the matching network to free space. An appropriate tap may be possible.
I would lower the impedance to 300 ohms or less. It may be easier to get a match, |
18,671 | I've got an Black & Decker electric trimmer that gets used about 2 months out of the year. It uses a NiCd battery pack.
For optimum battery life, should I leave it plugged in all year when not in use? I hate to waste that power (minimal though it is).
I'm Ok with needing to charge the battery overnight before first use. | 2012/10/05 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/18671",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/3858/"
] | The "memory effect" is not typically a problem with modern batteries. The effect is generally "broken through" by large discharges, too, so if it's a battery for a power-tool, then it's a self-correcting problem.
Modern chargers won't over charge so you shouldn't have a problem. Power consumption for continuous "trickle charge" is tiny. Opening your refrigerator an extra time will probably amount to a year's worth of such charging.
Battery longevity may be reduced by it remaining warm for an extended period but it also degrades just sitting around.
**Bottom line:** If it'll be a problem for you when you need to use your electric *whatever* and there is no charged battery, then leave a battery in the charger.
<http://batteryuniversity.com/> has some of the best information about batteries. I'm especially fond of this article on the maintenance of Li-Ion batteries: <http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries> | I would say no for two reasons. Power consumption, the charger itself is using electricity even when not charging the battery, so it is costing you money. The other reason is the heat generated by the battery in the charger, if you have ever felt the battery after taking it out of the charger it is warm. The heat is detrimental to the battery in the long term. |
18,671 | I've got an Black & Decker electric trimmer that gets used about 2 months out of the year. It uses a NiCd battery pack.
For optimum battery life, should I leave it plugged in all year when not in use? I hate to waste that power (minimal though it is).
I'm Ok with needing to charge the battery overnight before first use. | 2012/10/05 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/18671",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/3858/"
] | The "memory effect" is not typically a problem with modern batteries. The effect is generally "broken through" by large discharges, too, so if it's a battery for a power-tool, then it's a self-correcting problem.
Modern chargers won't over charge so you shouldn't have a problem. Power consumption for continuous "trickle charge" is tiny. Opening your refrigerator an extra time will probably amount to a year's worth of such charging.
Battery longevity may be reduced by it remaining warm for an extended period but it also degrades just sitting around.
**Bottom line:** If it'll be a problem for you when you need to use your electric *whatever* and there is no charged battery, then leave a battery in the charger.
<http://batteryuniversity.com/> has some of the best information about batteries. I'm especially fond of this article on the maintenance of Li-Ion batteries: <http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries> | NiCd batteries don't do as well when they're "topped off". It's better to let them run out and then recharge them. |
150,782 | Example I:
>
> "How telling this is [**of/about**] the way international
> students continue to be perceived by their American peers on U.S.
> campuses?"
>
>
>
Example II:
>
> "Public opinion is telling [**of/about**] its culture."
>
>
>
What preposition should be used with *telling* in sentences of this kind — *of*, *about*, or neither? | 2014/02/09 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/150782",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/60619/"
] | *Telling* in this sense is normally not used with a preposition, because it's an **adjective**.
>
> Public opinion of its culture is telling.
>
>
>
If you have a sentence like your first one where *telling* can't be used as an adjective like this, it's not a sentence where it would normally be used. | Whilst I think 'of' or 'about' are both valid, I don't think you necessarily need a preposition. 'Public opinion is telling its culture' sounds quite alright to me.
Edit. I now realise that this answer misunderstands the question. |
150,782 | Example I:
>
> "How telling this is [**of/about**] the way international
> students continue to be perceived by their American peers on U.S.
> campuses?"
>
>
>
Example II:
>
> "Public opinion is telling [**of/about**] its culture."
>
>
>
What preposition should be used with *telling* in sentences of this kind — *of*, *about*, or neither? | 2014/02/09 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/150782",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/60619/"
] | One can use nothing (possibly best)
>
> a telling smile
>
>
>
one can use *of* (common)
>
> a telling analysis of motivation in business.
>
>
> This is telling of the high-input crop production and high animal density polluting agricultural practices that continue to dominate the European landscape.
>
>
>
or, one can use *about* (though this is the least formal)
>
> how telling this is about the culture of the US
>
>
> | Whilst I think 'of' or 'about' are both valid, I don't think you necessarily need a preposition. 'Public opinion is telling its culture' sounds quite alright to me.
Edit. I now realise that this answer misunderstands the question. |
150,782 | Example I:
>
> "How telling this is [**of/about**] the way international
> students continue to be perceived by their American peers on U.S.
> campuses?"
>
>
>
Example II:
>
> "Public opinion is telling [**of/about**] its culture."
>
>
>
What preposition should be used with *telling* in sentences of this kind — *of*, *about*, or neither? | 2014/02/09 | [
"https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/150782",
"https://english.stackexchange.com",
"https://english.stackexchange.com/users/60619/"
] | *Telling* in this sense is normally not used with a preposition, because it's an **adjective**.
>
> Public opinion of its culture is telling.
>
>
>
If you have a sentence like your first one where *telling* can't be used as an adjective like this, it's not a sentence where it would normally be used. | One can use nothing (possibly best)
>
> a telling smile
>
>
>
one can use *of* (common)
>
> a telling analysis of motivation in business.
>
>
> This is telling of the high-input crop production and high animal density polluting agricultural practices that continue to dominate the European landscape.
>
>
>
or, one can use *about* (though this is the least formal)
>
> how telling this is about the culture of the US
>
>
> |
21,866 | I aim on building a silent, completely passively cooled PC, with no moving parts at all (I am aware that it is cheaper to go for an inaudible computer instead, using low speed fans. This is not the point.).
I came up with the idea to install not one but two CPU coolers, of which in theory one alone should keep a high performance CPU cool only using natural convection, but not in practice. For this I thought of using a triangular shaped piece of copper, with thermal compound between each surfaces.
Will this improve heat dissipation compared to a single heat sink or is the thermal resistance of the copper block a problem?
I sketched the idea below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eLgXz.jpg) | 2018/05/23 | [
"https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/21866",
"https://engineering.stackexchange.com",
"https://engineering.stackexchange.com/users/16181/"
] | Well, I would *think* that two smaller ones rigged up in an "amateurish" fashion (apologies, but that's we both are, right) are going to be worse than just one (sufficiently large) properly mounted heatsink. That giant triangular piece closest to the CPU would probably delay heat transfer -- even if you have excellent cooling on the other side of it.
What I have done was to use just one cooler, and that *is* sufficient if you choose one that's large enough.
I have one giant case (Antec 182) with a giant heat sink (Thermalright HR-1) which never even gets lukewarm under load of a 3.something GHz cpu.
I have an HTPC case (Streacom FC10) in which the sides themselves are giant heat sinks connected to the CPU and PSU by way of heat pipes. This also works excellently, and is fully enclosed.
Edit: Here's what the case-as-heatsink solution looks like: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lfZ1P.jpg) | I was going to suggest a Streacom case, I've had one for years and it works excellently.
Looking at your original design, if you could get the triangular block made as a vapour chamber instead of a solid block it might actually work.
You'd need to consult with a company that makes heat pipes to see if the triangular shape would work or not.
Given the diagrams I've seen of how they normally work I'm guessing not due to the varying and long distances between input and output surfaces, but would be an interesting engineering exercise that could have unexpected results.
Who knows, you might have stumbled on a great design and they could manufacture it for you...
As to your build, these high density heatpipes might be of interest:
<https://www.fanlesstech.com/2018/09/flat-cool-pipes.html> |
18,593 | If I have a 100mm lens, how far away can I shoot the subject? If I am shooting basketball, how far can I shoot the subject and still get a sharp picture? | 2011/12/30 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/18593",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/7874/"
] | If you are on the baseline or sideline, near the action, you probably want a 35mm or 50mm, and something between 80-150mm for longer range shots, depending on whether you want a full or half body shot.
Not sure what you mean about "how far can I shoot the subject and still get a sharp picture". Sharpness depends on how well you focus obviously, and how little camera or subject motion blur you get. So you want a fast shutter speed, at least 1/125 or faster, to prevent blur. With indoor lighting, that's hard to get without flash or a very fast expensive lens | **As long as your subject is further than the *minimum focus distance* of your lens, you will be able to get a sharp picture.**
There are other things that affect sharpness, including subject motion and depth-of-field. Since depth-of-field increases with distance, the further you are the more chances of your subject being in focus as it moves while you are focusing and taking a photo.
Subject motion is not controllable by you but the wider your aperture, the faster the shutter-speed to get a consistent exposure, this increases your change of freezing the motion of your subject. The only catch is that lenses are always softer wide-open, if you have a cheap 100mm lens this may be severe but if you have a high-end one then it should be minimal. |
18,593 | If I have a 100mm lens, how far away can I shoot the subject? If I am shooting basketball, how far can I shoot the subject and still get a sharp picture? | 2011/12/30 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/18593",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/7874/"
] | If you are on the baseline or sideline, near the action, you probably want a 35mm or 50mm, and something between 80-150mm for longer range shots, depending on whether you want a full or half body shot.
Not sure what you mean about "how far can I shoot the subject and still get a sharp picture". Sharpness depends on how well you focus obviously, and how little camera or subject motion blur you get. So you want a fast shutter speed, at least 1/125 or faster, to prevent blur. With indoor lighting, that's hard to get without flash or a very fast expensive lens | The farther the subject, the smaller the part of the field of view it will cover. Therefore the picture of the object will be composed of less pixels which means that the image will effectively be less sharp. |
4,382 | A sports teacher slapped my friend twice in the face in front of the class for not attending the sports class.
Should this be allowed? Tomorrow we are going to be on a strike so what points and facts in the light of law I should put on the table. | 2015/10/11 | [
"https://law.stackexchange.com/questions/4382",
"https://law.stackexchange.com",
"https://law.stackexchange.com/users/2972/"
] | The school-teacher-student relationship has historically often been given some of the same privileges and legal exemptions that are granted to the family-parent-child relationship, corporal punishment among them.
All I can find on Pakistani law [suggests corporal punishment is legal but discouraged](http://www.corpun.com/rules2.htm#pakistan):
>
> At federal level, corporal punishment is lawful in schools under
> Article 89 of the Penal Code. Ministerial directives in the different
> provinces have instructed teachers not to use it, in some cases even
> in private schools ... but these are clearly not enforced in practice.
>
>
> | Corporal Punishment is what that is called. My edited answer is that you should tell adults/parents what happened and leave it with them.
Show support privately to your friend who was slapped. There are other battles out there to fight. Do not get involved unless you are asked to by your parents or the school. |
96,368 | I've gone through the arrow icon, camera icon and eye icon and all are active. The mug I made for the the Andrew Price tutorial does not show up in a final render. I have also hit alt H to unhide. Any other ideas lads? | 2017/12/11 | [
"https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/96368",
"https://blender.stackexchange.com",
"https://blender.stackexchange.com/users/49563/"
] | The easiest and most straight forward way is to uncheck Deform in bone properties (marked red on the image below). Second way is to delete from the mesh vertex groups named like the bones.[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8v8Zx.png) | You can remove (ie:clean, or reset to zero) a single bone's influence, you can use weight tools, like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BlnvP.gif)
edit: follow-up after a comment.
...imho it works 100%, but since moving that bone moves other connected bones (eg: thigh.L), which have weights are still infuencing the mesh... you see some influence, but from other bones.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ar41L.gif)
This happen salso deactivating "deform" checkbox, as suggested by the other answer.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/sWtW0.gif)
Deactivating "deform" checkbox *keeps* weight and thus, influence but it *deactivates* its evaluation (for that bone). Using clean you *reset* to zero the influence (useful maybe if you wish to start over painting it) |
1,028,013 | What does the "Grant easy access" feature in TeamViewer do? I can't find the documentation for it anywhere.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cB2b8.jpg) | 2016/01/18 | [
"https://superuser.com/questions/1028013",
"https://superuser.com",
"https://superuser.com/users/166801/"
] | ### What does the "Grant easy access" feature in TeamViewer do?
"Grant easy access" is used to allow connections to your own computers without using a password.
---
### Connections to your own computers without a password.
>
> For this mode, it is not necessary to define a password for access. Consequently, when establishing a connection, it is not necessary to enter a password, if you are connecting to one of your own devices with your TeamViewer account.
>
>
> **If activated, access to the computer is only possible in the following
> cases:**
>
>
> * Easy access without password is only possible with your TeamViewer account.
> * For other connections the TeamViewer ID and the password of the device are required.
> * If in the TeamViewer settings you deactivate the random or personal password, you, and only you, have access to the device via your
> TeamViewer account.
>
>
> **To activate easy access to a computer, proceed as follows:**
>
>
> 1. Start TeamViewer on the computer.
> 2. Log in to the Computers & Contacts list with your TeamViewer account
> 3. Click Tools | Options.
> 4. Select the Security tab.
>
>
> * If the device is already assigned to your account, under Personal Password (for unattended access) select the checkbox Grant easy access.
> * If the device is not yet assigned to your account, click the Configure... button. The Assign to account dialog box will open.
>
>
> 1. Click the Assign button.
> 2. Under Personal Password (for unattended access) activate the Grant easy access checkbox.
> 5. Click the OK button.
> 6. You have activated easy access for this device.
>
>
>
Source [TeamViewer 10 Manual Remote Control](http://downloadeu2.teamviewer.com/docs/en/v10/TeamViewer10-Manual-Remote-Control-en.pdf) | It lets you set up an account that the computer is then associated with. You can then see computers on that account that are online, and simply double click on it to connect to it.
>
> You can activate easy access for a device in TeamViewer full version
> settings.
>
>
> If activated, access to the computer is only possible in the
> following cases:
>
>
> Easy access without password is only possible with
> your TeamViewer account.
>
>
> For other connections the TeamViewer ID and
> the password of the device are required.
>
>
> If in the TeamViewer
> settings you deactivate the random or personal password, you, and only
> you, have access to the device via your TeamViewer account.
>
>
>
In the manual [here](https://dl.tvcdn.de/docs/en/v12/TeamViewer12-Manual-Remote-Control-en.pdf). *Note: this is the direct download link that will immediately download the manual.* |
34,227 | There are only A and M settings, no A/M. but I just noticed that [Nikon website](http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/2179/AF-S-DX-NIKKOR-18-105mm-f%252F3.5-5.6G-ED-VR.html) has mentioned three focus modes for this lens: Auto, Manual and Manual/Auto
I'm confused if this is only a typo or is it safe to manually focus with this lens when the lens is in Auto mode? | 2013/02/02 | [
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/34227",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com",
"https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/11549/"
] | Page 15 of the manual answers the question:
>
> Manual focusing is possible even when the lens A-M mode switch is set to A.
>
>
>
Mind you, the camera should be in AF-S mode and then you use the ring to fine tune, which isn't a full-range manual adjust, it's for tuning the AF result. | According to the information below, I am led to believe that it is not safe. However the lens manual trumps anything, so if the manual says it's ok, I'd have to assume it's ok.
Nikon terminology is confusing. There are two similar sounding modes:
* [A/M](http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/glossary.htm#am), which is autofocus with manual override (the one you want), and
* [M/A](http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/glossary.htm#ma), which apparently is the ability to switch between A and M with little or no lag
The 18-105mm does not have A/M mode, which is the one which allows for manual override. It may have M/A mode, as the specification seems to indicate. This is not the same thing as the A/M switch you see on other lenses.
According to [this](http://www.flickr.com/groups/nikon_d90_users/discuss/72157616361488717/) thread, Nikon support have indicated that while you can manually override focus when in A mode on the 18-105mm, you should not do this regularly.
>
> ...there is an amount of movement on the focus ring to allow you to
> also focus, however this should not be done on a regular basis
>
>
> |
34,058 | >
> “When I discovered it, after all those years, buried in the
> abandoned home of the Gaunts - the Hallow I had craved
> most of all, though in my youth I had wanted it for very
> different reasons - I lost my head, Harry. I quite forgot that it
> was now a Horcrux, **that the ring was sure to carry a curse**. (*Deathly Hallows, Chapter 35 - KING'S CROSS*).
>
>
>
Why did Dumbledore say that it was "sure" to carry a curse, being a Horcrux?
As @Sheph noted [in a comment](https://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/34041/why-did-dumbledore-never-ask-harry-how-to-destroy-a-horcrux/34044#comment64508_34044), this seems less than "sure" if one were to look at other Horcruxes:
* The Diary had no malevolent protective spell (and was the only Horcrux Dumbledore knew of before the Ring). It did have Tom's spirit inside but no curse.
* The locket didn't carry a defensive curse. It was able to long-term corrupt the wearer ala The One Ring, but that was not what Dumbledore meant when referring to carrying a curse.
* The cup had no curse. The trio handled it barehanded with no issues.
* The diadem - IIRC was destroyed before anyone actually had a chance to touch it and check.
* Nagini - had no curse aside from being an evil thinking snake (Harry touched her when fighting on Christmas in Bathilda's house). | 2013/04/09 | [
"https://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/34058",
"https://scifi.stackexchange.com",
"https://scifi.stackexchange.com/users/976/"
] | I would disagree with your assessment of a few things. First let us define what a curse is. From several sources they all agree on pretty much the same thing:
>
> Curses are used with the intention of causing harm, control, or even death to the victim.
>
>
>
With that we can examine some of your points.
>
> The Diary had no malevolent protective spell (and was the only Horcrux Dumbledore knew of before the Ring). It did have Tom's spirit inside but no curse.
>
>
>
The diary was in control of, and ultimately was going to kill, Ginny Weasley. The diary itself was a Horcrux. Horcruxes themselves don't control people, otherwise the locket would have exhibited control over RAB. We can then safely assume the diary was a cursed Horcrux.
>
> The locket didn't carry a defensive curse. It was able to long-term corrupt the wearer ala The One Ring, but that was not what Dumbledore meant when referring to carrying a curse.
>
>
>
The locket itself didn't carry a curse, offensive or defensive. But the Horcrux was initially trapped in a seaside cave that required magic to find. Then a dark spell requiring blood was required to open the door. Following that, there was a pool of a most evil potion that forced the victim into terrible bouts of fear, pain and stubbornness. I would call this a type of control. Then there were the inferi who are bodies cursed to 'life' by a dark wizard. More accurately they are animated, not brought to life.
>
> The cup had no curse. The trio handled it barehanded no issue.
>
>
>
Helga Hufflepuff's cup had the Gemino Curse applied to it. They handled it barehanded and it multiplied endlessly.
>
> The diadem - IIRC was destroyed before anyone actually had a chance to touch it and check.
>
>
>
Correct. We will never know for sure. However, we can safely assume that it was cursed. Helena Ravenclaw said that it was defiled with dark "magics." Using the plural.
>
> Nahini - had no curse aside from being an evil thinking snake (Harry touched her when fighting on Christmas in Bathilda's house).
>
>
>
I think this is more of an issue of time on Volemort's part. But you are correct in saying that Nagini wasn't cursed. There is no proof that she was. But, since we have no true knowledge of all the magics in the world we can use a bit of reason.
We know:
* Nagini had a telepathic connection with Voldemort (Possible curse? Its not an innate power of parseltongue)
* Extremely powerful venom for the breed of snake, only one survivor (Arthur Weasley in OotP) and he had immediate assistance (Curse to enhance abilities?)
* Could mimic people (We aren't told how this is done, but a curse was placed over Nagini at some point to wear Bathilda Bagshot's skin)
* Nagini was placed in a protective bubble in book 7. Voldemort usually isn't one to use 'good' magic when dark magic is an option.
We can safely assume that at some point Nagini had a curse placed over her.
>
> **Not a Quote** Harry was the 6th Horcrux created by use of a curse
>
>
>
This makes 6/7 Horcruxes that we can be reasonably sure had a curse upon them at one time.
---
At the time of Dumbledore's death, a scant few of the Horcruxes were known to the trio. All of them by this point had been cursed, and quite severely. This makes Dumbledore's mistake all the more blunderous. When Dumbledore said this, it was a memory of Dumbledore. Albus couldn't have gained more knowledge after being dead.
Edit:
I also have a cowards argument. Horcruxes required the death of someone to create, it can be argued that each object is innately cursed once it becomes a horcrux. | Dumbledore said that it was sure to carry a curse because most importantly it was an heirloom to the House of Gaunt and Dumbledore may have thought that if anyone other than a Slytherin wore it, the curse wold act upon them. Or simply that if anyone other than a pureblood wears it, or anyone other than a descendant of Slytherin, the curse would work.
It's important to remember that the curse works only if someone wears it, and not touch it because when Dumbledore picked it up (touched it) nothing happened. It acted only when he wore it. Also it must be noted that before the ring Dumbledore hadn't seen and touched any Horcrux except the Diary which was a dangerous weapon. And so Dumbledore thought that as it belonged to the Slytherins and more importantly was Voldemort's Horcrux, that it would carry a curse! |
34,058 | >
> “When I discovered it, after all those years, buried in the
> abandoned home of the Gaunts - the Hallow I had craved
> most of all, though in my youth I had wanted it for very
> different reasons - I lost my head, Harry. I quite forgot that it
> was now a Horcrux, **that the ring was sure to carry a curse**. (*Deathly Hallows, Chapter 35 - KING'S CROSS*).
>
>
>
Why did Dumbledore say that it was "sure" to carry a curse, being a Horcrux?
As @Sheph noted [in a comment](https://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/34041/why-did-dumbledore-never-ask-harry-how-to-destroy-a-horcrux/34044#comment64508_34044), this seems less than "sure" if one were to look at other Horcruxes:
* The Diary had no malevolent protective spell (and was the only Horcrux Dumbledore knew of before the Ring). It did have Tom's spirit inside but no curse.
* The locket didn't carry a defensive curse. It was able to long-term corrupt the wearer ala The One Ring, but that was not what Dumbledore meant when referring to carrying a curse.
* The cup had no curse. The trio handled it barehanded with no issues.
* The diadem - IIRC was destroyed before anyone actually had a chance to touch it and check.
* Nagini - had no curse aside from being an evil thinking snake (Harry touched her when fighting on Christmas in Bathilda's house). | 2013/04/09 | [
"https://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/34058",
"https://scifi.stackexchange.com",
"https://scifi.stackexchange.com/users/976/"
] | >
> "Why did you put on that ring? it carries a curse, surely you realised that. Why even touch it?" ... "
>
>
> I... was a fool. Sorely tempted"
>
>
> *-Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, Chapter 33 The Prince's Tale.*
>
>
>
So Dumbledore had probably sensed the curse when he found it.
How? This is just speculation but I believe he was looking out for it, just like in the cave:
>
> "Magic always leaves traces," ... "sometimes very distinctive traces. I taught Tom Riddle. I know his style."
>
>
> *-Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince, Chapter 26 The Cave.*
>
>
>
He knew it was a Horcrux and so he expected protections.
After all, he knew that:
1. The Diary was entrusted to Lucius to be kept with the highest security possible and
2. The Locket was stored in the middle of a lake in a cave and kept in a potion that would possibly cause serious harm to the drinker.
So he could hardly expect that Tom Riddle had just left the Horcrux under a floorboard without any protections.
To make it easy to understand I've made a narrative, as follows:
Albus Dumbledore finds out the location of the Gaunt house and goes there. After reaching the cottage he searches for the Horcrux, at which point he senses the enchantments (curse?) and finds the Horcrux under the floorboards. But then he sees that it's the ring has the Resurrection Stone on it; he gets excited (because he - unlike Voldemort - knows about the Hallows and that he can use it to bring back his lost family) and forgets that it might have a curse on it and puts it on.
So that's what I believe is what he means when he says "was sure to carry a curse". | I would disagree with your assessment of a few things. First let us define what a curse is. From several sources they all agree on pretty much the same thing:
>
> Curses are used with the intention of causing harm, control, or even death to the victim.
>
>
>
With that we can examine some of your points.
>
> The Diary had no malevolent protective spell (and was the only Horcrux Dumbledore knew of before the Ring). It did have Tom's spirit inside but no curse.
>
>
>
The diary was in control of, and ultimately was going to kill, Ginny Weasley. The diary itself was a Horcrux. Horcruxes themselves don't control people, otherwise the locket would have exhibited control over RAB. We can then safely assume the diary was a cursed Horcrux.
>
> The locket didn't carry a defensive curse. It was able to long-term corrupt the wearer ala The One Ring, but that was not what Dumbledore meant when referring to carrying a curse.
>
>
>
The locket itself didn't carry a curse, offensive or defensive. But the Horcrux was initially trapped in a seaside cave that required magic to find. Then a dark spell requiring blood was required to open the door. Following that, there was a pool of a most evil potion that forced the victim into terrible bouts of fear, pain and stubbornness. I would call this a type of control. Then there were the inferi who are bodies cursed to 'life' by a dark wizard. More accurately they are animated, not brought to life.
>
> The cup had no curse. The trio handled it barehanded no issue.
>
>
>
Helga Hufflepuff's cup had the Gemino Curse applied to it. They handled it barehanded and it multiplied endlessly.
>
> The diadem - IIRC was destroyed before anyone actually had a chance to touch it and check.
>
>
>
Correct. We will never know for sure. However, we can safely assume that it was cursed. Helena Ravenclaw said that it was defiled with dark "magics." Using the plural.
>
> Nahini - had no curse aside from being an evil thinking snake (Harry touched her when fighting on Christmas in Bathilda's house).
>
>
>
I think this is more of an issue of time on Volemort's part. But you are correct in saying that Nagini wasn't cursed. There is no proof that she was. But, since we have no true knowledge of all the magics in the world we can use a bit of reason.
We know:
* Nagini had a telepathic connection with Voldemort (Possible curse? Its not an innate power of parseltongue)
* Extremely powerful venom for the breed of snake, only one survivor (Arthur Weasley in OotP) and he had immediate assistance (Curse to enhance abilities?)
* Could mimic people (We aren't told how this is done, but a curse was placed over Nagini at some point to wear Bathilda Bagshot's skin)
* Nagini was placed in a protective bubble in book 7. Voldemort usually isn't one to use 'good' magic when dark magic is an option.
We can safely assume that at some point Nagini had a curse placed over her.
>
> **Not a Quote** Harry was the 6th Horcrux created by use of a curse
>
>
>
This makes 6/7 Horcruxes that we can be reasonably sure had a curse upon them at one time.
---
At the time of Dumbledore's death, a scant few of the Horcruxes were known to the trio. All of them by this point had been cursed, and quite severely. This makes Dumbledore's mistake all the more blunderous. When Dumbledore said this, it was a memory of Dumbledore. Albus couldn't have gained more knowledge after being dead.
Edit:
I also have a cowards argument. Horcruxes required the death of someone to create, it can be argued that each object is innately cursed once it becomes a horcrux. |
34,058 | >
> “When I discovered it, after all those years, buried in the
> abandoned home of the Gaunts - the Hallow I had craved
> most of all, though in my youth I had wanted it for very
> different reasons - I lost my head, Harry. I quite forgot that it
> was now a Horcrux, **that the ring was sure to carry a curse**. (*Deathly Hallows, Chapter 35 - KING'S CROSS*).
>
>
>
Why did Dumbledore say that it was "sure" to carry a curse, being a Horcrux?
As @Sheph noted [in a comment](https://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/34041/why-did-dumbledore-never-ask-harry-how-to-destroy-a-horcrux/34044#comment64508_34044), this seems less than "sure" if one were to look at other Horcruxes:
* The Diary had no malevolent protective spell (and was the only Horcrux Dumbledore knew of before the Ring). It did have Tom's spirit inside but no curse.
* The locket didn't carry a defensive curse. It was able to long-term corrupt the wearer ala The One Ring, but that was not what Dumbledore meant when referring to carrying a curse.
* The cup had no curse. The trio handled it barehanded with no issues.
* The diadem - IIRC was destroyed before anyone actually had a chance to touch it and check.
* Nagini - had no curse aside from being an evil thinking snake (Harry touched her when fighting on Christmas in Bathilda's house). | 2013/04/09 | [
"https://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/34058",
"https://scifi.stackexchange.com",
"https://scifi.stackexchange.com/users/976/"
] | >
> "Why did you put on that ring? it carries a curse, surely you realised that. Why even touch it?" ... "
>
>
> I... was a fool. Sorely tempted"
>
>
> *-Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, Chapter 33 The Prince's Tale.*
>
>
>
So Dumbledore had probably sensed the curse when he found it.
How? This is just speculation but I believe he was looking out for it, just like in the cave:
>
> "Magic always leaves traces," ... "sometimes very distinctive traces. I taught Tom Riddle. I know his style."
>
>
> *-Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince, Chapter 26 The Cave.*
>
>
>
He knew it was a Horcrux and so he expected protections.
After all, he knew that:
1. The Diary was entrusted to Lucius to be kept with the highest security possible and
2. The Locket was stored in the middle of a lake in a cave and kept in a potion that would possibly cause serious harm to the drinker.
So he could hardly expect that Tom Riddle had just left the Horcrux under a floorboard without any protections.
To make it easy to understand I've made a narrative, as follows:
Albus Dumbledore finds out the location of the Gaunt house and goes there. After reaching the cottage he searches for the Horcrux, at which point he senses the enchantments (curse?) and finds the Horcrux under the floorboards. But then he sees that it's the ring has the Resurrection Stone on it; he gets excited (because he - unlike Voldemort - knows about the Hallows and that he can use it to bring back his lost family) and forgets that it might have a curse on it and puts it on.
So that's what I believe is what he means when he says "was sure to carry a curse". | Dumbledore said that it was sure to carry a curse because most importantly it was an heirloom to the House of Gaunt and Dumbledore may have thought that if anyone other than a Slytherin wore it, the curse wold act upon them. Or simply that if anyone other than a pureblood wears it, or anyone other than a descendant of Slytherin, the curse would work.
It's important to remember that the curse works only if someone wears it, and not touch it because when Dumbledore picked it up (touched it) nothing happened. It acted only when he wore it. Also it must be noted that before the ring Dumbledore hadn't seen and touched any Horcrux except the Diary which was a dangerous weapon. And so Dumbledore thought that as it belonged to the Slytherins and more importantly was Voldemort's Horcrux, that it would carry a curse! |
155,877 | In Realm Reborn they keep mentioning that you can safely entrust your gil to your retainer. What is that supposed to be for? You don't lose gil for dying, I think.
I know that retainers can have their own gil balance, because you need to retrieve the gil you got from selling items - so withdrawing is ok. But why deposit? | 2014/02/13 | [
"https://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/155877",
"https://gaming.stackexchange.com",
"https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/6481/"
] | Being able to give gil to your retainer is likely just a holdover from version 1.0 of the game, where retainers would more directly carry out buying and selling items in the markets on your behalf, so there was actually a purpose to giving them money. For example, you could set up your retainer with a stash of money and a "buy" order, so that other players could choose to sell items to your retainer for an offer price that you set up ahead of time. Likewise, for a period of time you could put your gear up for repair with your retainer, along with a gil reward for any players that repaired that gear.
Although it currently serves no necessary purpose right now, some players like to use their retainers as a piggy bank; a place to squirrel away money so they can't impulse-buy things from the market wards as easily. :) | If you transfer a character between worlds, the most you can carry is 1,000,000 gil, but your retainers each can carry 100,000 more, so there is some (marginal) use.
Otherwise, it is as Panic Bomb said, in that they are more of a holdover from 1.\* versions.
I hope that in a future update, they add the ability to add buy orders to your retainers. |
45,059,116 | According to <https://www.ampproject.org/support/faqs/supported-browsers>
amp-html are not supporting **UC browser** do we have any polyfill or support available of it. | 2017/07/12 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/45059116",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/2424333/"
] | As the [documentation](https://www.ampproject.org/support/faqs/supported-browsers) stated, as of now, AMP only supports the latest two versions of major browsers like Chrome, Firefox, Edge, Safari and Opera. However, you may file a [feature request](https://github.com/ampproject/amphtml/issues) for this. | Actually AMP started supporting **UC browser**(around oct'17). [cramforce](https://github.com/cramforce)(owner of amphtml repository) said that
>
> We already support UC. Updated docs accordingly. In practice UC doesn't support automated testing and so support is more of a best effort thing.
>
>
>
See [Amp for UCBrowser](https://github.com/ampproject/amphtml/issues/11195) and [Development on AMP HTML](https://github.com/ampproject/amphtml/blob/master/contributing/DEVELOPING.md#supported-browsers). |
87,778 | I currently have a bedroom in which a 15amp single pole switch is wired to the light in the room. Power is coming from the light. The two brass terminals on the switch have the white (which has black electrical tape) at the bottom of the brass screw. The hot is at the top of the brass terminal. Of course, the bare copper ground is on the green screw. The wiring is 12/2.
I have added a closet light switch tapping power from the light switch in the room using 12/2 wiring (I know it's overkill). I wired it with black from the light switch to black to the closet switch with a pigtail going to the bottom of the brass screw. However I capped the neutral wires (white) on the back of the added closet switch and another 12/2 cable is going from the top brass screw going to the closet light. As well as the white going to white of the closet. Bare to ground. The closet light bulb is only 40watts.
Now whenever I power on the closet switch light it powers on but the bedroom lights flicker and then turn off and the closet light dims in and out. Any reason why? The bedroom lights are 4 recessed lights that only use 65 watts. If I turn on the bedroom lights first and then the closet light, the closet light does not turn on until I switch off the bedroom switch light. Any ideas on how I can fix this? Thanks. | 2016/03/31 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/87778",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/52125/"
] | Your light and switch arrangement needs hot and neutral to function. You tapped it off the light switch in the bedroom, which only has hot and switched-hot (marked as white with black electrical tape). That is not a good place to get power. Here's what's happening:
With the bedroom switch on, the two pins on the switch are shorted out, so both power wires to the closet have the same voltage. It can't function.
With the bedroom switch off, current flows from hot, through your closet switch, through your closet lamp, and then through the bedroom lamps and to neutral. The lights are in series. That would light - dimly - with incandescents, but smart bulbs won't like it at all.
You cannot tap power at the switch if there's no neutral there. You should tap it at the bedroom light, where neutral is available. | I have switched off the circuit breaker and will disconnect closet switch completely. I had remodeled the bedroom and should have run the wire to a receptacle. Growing pains. Not a big deal. Thank you all for your comments. |
3,935 | As we say goodbye to the old year and welcome the new one, we have [a tradition of sharing moderation stats for the preceding calendar year](https://music.meta.stackexchange.com/search?q=%22year+in+moderation%22+is%3Aquestion).
As most of you here are aware, sites on the Stack Exchange network are moderated somewhat differently to other sites on the web:
>
> We designed the Stack Exchange network engine to be mostly self-regulating, in that we amortize the overall moderation cost of the system across thousands of teeny-tiny slices of effort contributed by regular, everyday users.
>
> -- [A Theory of Moderation](http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2009/05/a-theory-of-moderation/)
>
>
>
That doesn't eliminate the need for having [moderators](https://stackoverflow.blog/2018/11/21/our-theory-of-moderation-re-visited/) altogether, but it does mean that the bulk of moderation work is carried out by regular folks. Every bit of time and effort y'all contribute to the site gives you access to more privileges you can use to help in this effort, all of which produce a cumulative effect that makes a big difference.
So as we say goodbye to 2022 (and where did January go, right?) and dive head first into 2023, let us look back at what we accomplished as a community... by looking at some [*exciting* stats](https://i.stack.imgur.com/V0TPg.gif). Below is a breakdown of moderation actions performed on Music: Practice & Theory over the past 12 months:
| Action | Moderators | Community¹ |
| --- | --- | --- |
| All comments on a post moved to chat | 24 | 0 |
| Answer flags handled | 617 | 87 |
| Answers flagged | 23 | 681 |
| Comment flags handled | 449 | 160 |
| Comments deleted⁷ | 1,596 | 1,233 |
| Comments flagged | 0 | 609 |
| Comments undeleted | 17 | 0 |
| Escalations to the Community Manager team | 4 | 0 |
| Posts bumped | 0 | 199 |
| Posts deleted⁶ | 576 | 443 |
| Posts locked | 7 | 44 |
| Posts undeleted | 8 | 24 |
| Posts unlocked | 1 | 5 |
| Question flags handled⁵ | 195 | 82 |
| Questions closed | 279 | 330 |
| Questions flagged⁵ | 53 | 235 |
| Questions migrated | 21 | 1 |
| Questions protected | 19 | 17 |
| Questions reopened | 14 | 13 |
| Tag synonyms proposed | 0 | 1 |
| Tasks reviewed⁴: "Close votes" queue | 155 | 1,289 |
| Tasks reviewed⁴: "First answers" queue | 3 | 853 |
| Tasks reviewed⁴: "First questions" queue | 4 | 852 |
| Tasks reviewed⁴: "Late answers" queue | 6 | 441 |
| Tasks reviewed⁴: "Low quality posts" queue | 25 | 424 |
| Tasks reviewed⁴: "Reopen votes" queue | 54 | 129 |
| Tasks reviewed⁴: "Suggested edits" queue | 33 | 541 |
| Users contacted | 10 | 0 |
| Users destroyed³ | 15 | 0 |
| Users suspended² | 7 | 23 |
### Footnotes
¹ "Community" here refers both to [the membership of Music: Practice & Theory](https://music.stackexchange.com/users) *without* [diamonds next to their names](https://music.stackexchange.com/users?tab=moderators), and to the automated systems otherwise known as [user #-1](https://music.stackexchange.com/users/-1).
² The system will suspend users under three circumstances: when a user is recreated after being previously suspended, when a user is recreated after being destroyed for spam or abuse, and when a network-wide suspension is in effect on an account.
³ A "destroyed" user is deleted along with all that they had posted: questions, answers, comments. [Generally used as an expedient way of getting rid of spam.](https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/88994/what-is-the-difference-between-a-deleted-user-and-a-destroyed-user)
⁴ This counts every review that was submitted (not skipped) - so the 2 suggested edits reviews needed to approve an edit would count as 2, the goal being to indicate the frequency of moderation actions. This also applies to flags, etc.
⁵ Includes close flags (but *not* close or reopen votes). Community can handle these flags by at least one person voting to close a question that has a close flag.
⁶ This ignores numerous deletions that happen automatically in response to some other action.
⁷ This includes comments deleted by their own authors (which also account for some number of handled comment flags).
### Further reading:
* Wanna see how these numbers have changed over time? We posted a similar report here last year: [2021: a year in moderation](https://music.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/3822/2021-a-year-in-moderation)
* You can also check out [this report on other sites](https://stackexchange.com/search?q=title%3A%222022%3A+a+year+in+moderation%22)
* Or peruse [detailed information on the number of questions closed and reopened across all sites](https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/386090/208518)
Wishing everyone a happy 2023! ^\_^ | 2023/01/26 | [
"https://music.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/3935",
"https://music.meta.stackexchange.com",
"https://music.meta.stackexchange.com/users/19682/"
] | A big "thank you" to the diamond moderators and the community participants in moderation for keeping the site running smoothly. | Thankyou to the mods, who keep everything fair and on an even keel, may it continue throughout 2023. So busy modding, they rarely have time to answer themselves! |
74,275 | An entry for [Fortnightly Topic Challenge #40](https://puzzling.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/6490/fortnightly-topic-challenge-40-retrograde-analysis), have fun with non-Chess puzzle! ;)
---
Three young children: **Red**, **Green**, and **Blue**; were playing a classic game of [Snakes and Ladders](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snakes_and_Ladders), when suddenly their mom called them to have a dinner.
When they came back to their room, they forgot whose turn it was; even they were not sure either about the order of the play!
This was the last condition of the board, including the die. Could you tell them whose turn it is and the order of the play?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/quYNG.png)
>
> **Some notes and clarifications**:
>
>
> * They put their markers at tile 1, at the beginning.
> * They will win if their markers land exactly on tile 100. They are using the "bouncing-back" version (roll 3 will move the marker from tile 99 to 98).
> * As long as they roll 6, they will get an extra roll after moving the marker.
> * The ladders should be used to go to a higher number only, and the snakes are used to go to a lower number. For the "interrupted" spaces (the squares being described by @Bass in his first comment below), both are immediately used (e.g. just as landing on 39 will bring you to 25, landing on 20 will bring you to 25 too).
> * If someone lands on a square where there is already a player, it **doesn't** send him back to square 1.
>
>
> | 2018/10/23 | [
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/74275",
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com",
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/28719/"
] | It is:
>
> Green's Turn
>
> The Turn order is: Red, Blue, Green
>
>
>
Reasoning:
>
> Blue was the child who just rolled the 4, you know this because Green is only 3 spots from the beginning and if Red had rolled a 4 he would've started the last turn from an impossible position on top a chute
>
> Because of Green's position he must have only taken 1 or 2 moves from the beginning of the game. Both Red and Blue's position is impossible to reach in 1 turn, as even with the roll again on 6 rule, they get trapped in an infinite loop with the slide from 31 to 7.
>
> There are 9 effectively different starting positions for turn 2, a unique one for if their last roll landed them on one of the escape ladders or their last die roll. It is impossible to reach Red's current position or Blue's known starting position from any of these 9 starting positions, meaning that Red has already taken 3 turns, Blue has just taken his 3rd turn and Green must go next.
>
>
> | Assuming the order of players to roll the dice is R B G,
the next player after they come back from dinner will be
>
> Green
>
>
>
Because
>
> On the first round:
>
> R rolled 6-6-6-6-5 => ends in 30.
>
> B rolled 6-6-6-6-5 => ends in 30.
>
> G rolled 1 => ends in 2.
>
> On the second round:
>
> R rolled 6-6-5 => ends in 66.
>
> B rolled 6-6-3 => ends in 77.
>
> G rolled 2 => ends in 4.
>
> On the third round:
>
> R rolled 6-6-6-6-6-3 => ends in 99.
>
> B rolled 6-6-4 => ends in 77 again.
>
> Last roll was 4 and now it is G's turn.
>
>
> |
74,275 | An entry for [Fortnightly Topic Challenge #40](https://puzzling.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/6490/fortnightly-topic-challenge-40-retrograde-analysis), have fun with non-Chess puzzle! ;)
---
Three young children: **Red**, **Green**, and **Blue**; were playing a classic game of [Snakes and Ladders](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snakes_and_Ladders), when suddenly their mom called them to have a dinner.
When they came back to their room, they forgot whose turn it was; even they were not sure either about the order of the play!
This was the last condition of the board, including the die. Could you tell them whose turn it is and the order of the play?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/quYNG.png)
>
> **Some notes and clarifications**:
>
>
> * They put their markers at tile 1, at the beginning.
> * They will win if their markers land exactly on tile 100. They are using the "bouncing-back" version (roll 3 will move the marker from tile 99 to 98).
> * As long as they roll 6, they will get an extra roll after moving the marker.
> * The ladders should be used to go to a higher number only, and the snakes are used to go to a lower number. For the "interrupted" spaces (the squares being described by @Bass in his first comment below), both are immediately used (e.g. just as landing on 39 will bring you to 25, landing on 20 will bring you to 25 too).
> * If someone lands on a square where there is already a player, it **doesn't** send him back to square 1.
>
>
> | 2018/10/23 | [
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/74275",
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com",
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/28719/"
] | The other guys already got the answer. (Maybe not with completely airtight arguments, but nevertheless.) The explanations would be a lot easier to follow if they had pictures, so here's one:
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4tBq.png)
>
>
>
Legend:
* Red square: after turn 1, you are in one of these.
* Green square: after turn 2, you are in one of these, or in some red square (except square 2).
* Red circle with R: if Red was the last player to move, Red's turn started at one of these.
From there, the solution is pretty simple:
>
> 1. Green has had either one or two turns.
>
> 2. Therefore, both Red and Blue have had at most three turns.
>
> 3. Therefore, because no green square overlaps with a letter R, Red was not the last to move.
>
> 3.1 There is no way to get to Red's current position within two turns, so Red has taken at least three turns. Combined with point 2, Red has taken exactly three turns.
>
> 3.2 Since Red has already taken three turns, but wasn't the last player to play, someone else must have also played three turns. It can only be Blue.
>
> 4. Because Red has played three turns, Green has taken 2 turns, rolling first 1, then 2.
>
>
>
So the only remaining things to check are that
>
> 5. Red really can get to its current square in 3 turns (yes, starting the third turn at 66, 62, 60 or 56.)
>
> 6. Blue can get to its current spot in 3 moves, ending with a 4 (yes, starting the third turn at 58, 60, 65, or indeed 77)
>
>
>
So finally, the answer is
>
> It's Green's turn, and after that it's time for the fourth round, with Red playing next.
>
>
> | It is:
>
> Green's Turn
>
> The Turn order is: Red, Blue, Green
>
>
>
Reasoning:
>
> Blue was the child who just rolled the 4, you know this because Green is only 3 spots from the beginning and if Red had rolled a 4 he would've started the last turn from an impossible position on top a chute
>
> Because of Green's position he must have only taken 1 or 2 moves from the beginning of the game. Both Red and Blue's position is impossible to reach in 1 turn, as even with the roll again on 6 rule, they get trapped in an infinite loop with the slide from 31 to 7.
>
> There are 9 effectively different starting positions for turn 2, a unique one for if their last roll landed them on one of the escape ladders or their last die roll. It is impossible to reach Red's current position or Blue's known starting position from any of these 9 starting positions, meaning that Red has already taken 3 turns, Blue has just taken his 3rd turn and Green must go next.
>
>
> |
74,275 | An entry for [Fortnightly Topic Challenge #40](https://puzzling.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/6490/fortnightly-topic-challenge-40-retrograde-analysis), have fun with non-Chess puzzle! ;)
---
Three young children: **Red**, **Green**, and **Blue**; were playing a classic game of [Snakes and Ladders](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snakes_and_Ladders), when suddenly their mom called them to have a dinner.
When they came back to their room, they forgot whose turn it was; even they were not sure either about the order of the play!
This was the last condition of the board, including the die. Could you tell them whose turn it is and the order of the play?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/quYNG.png)
>
> **Some notes and clarifications**:
>
>
> * They put their markers at tile 1, at the beginning.
> * They will win if their markers land exactly on tile 100. They are using the "bouncing-back" version (roll 3 will move the marker from tile 99 to 98).
> * As long as they roll 6, they will get an extra roll after moving the marker.
> * The ladders should be used to go to a higher number only, and the snakes are used to go to a lower number. For the "interrupted" spaces (the squares being described by @Bass in his first comment below), both are immediately used (e.g. just as landing on 39 will bring you to 25, landing on 20 will bring you to 25 too).
> * If someone lands on a square where there is already a player, it **doesn't** send him back to square 1.
>
>
> | 2018/10/23 | [
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/questions/74275",
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com",
"https://puzzling.stackexchange.com/users/28719/"
] | The other guys already got the answer. (Maybe not with completely airtight arguments, but nevertheless.) The explanations would be a lot easier to follow if they had pictures, so here's one:
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4tBq.png)
>
>
>
Legend:
* Red square: after turn 1, you are in one of these.
* Green square: after turn 2, you are in one of these, or in some red square (except square 2).
* Red circle with R: if Red was the last player to move, Red's turn started at one of these.
From there, the solution is pretty simple:
>
> 1. Green has had either one or two turns.
>
> 2. Therefore, both Red and Blue have had at most three turns.
>
> 3. Therefore, because no green square overlaps with a letter R, Red was not the last to move.
>
> 3.1 There is no way to get to Red's current position within two turns, so Red has taken at least three turns. Combined with point 2, Red has taken exactly three turns.
>
> 3.2 Since Red has already taken three turns, but wasn't the last player to play, someone else must have also played three turns. It can only be Blue.
>
> 4. Because Red has played three turns, Green has taken 2 turns, rolling first 1, then 2.
>
>
>
So the only remaining things to check are that
>
> 5. Red really can get to its current square in 3 turns (yes, starting the third turn at 66, 62, 60 or 56.)
>
> 6. Blue can get to its current spot in 3 moves, ending with a 4 (yes, starting the third turn at 58, 60, 65, or indeed 77)
>
>
>
So finally, the answer is
>
> It's Green's turn, and after that it's time for the fourth round, with Red playing next.
>
>
> | Assuming the order of players to roll the dice is R B G,
the next player after they come back from dinner will be
>
> Green
>
>
>
Because
>
> On the first round:
>
> R rolled 6-6-6-6-5 => ends in 30.
>
> B rolled 6-6-6-6-5 => ends in 30.
>
> G rolled 1 => ends in 2.
>
> On the second round:
>
> R rolled 6-6-5 => ends in 66.
>
> B rolled 6-6-3 => ends in 77.
>
> G rolled 2 => ends in 4.
>
> On the third round:
>
> R rolled 6-6-6-6-6-3 => ends in 99.
>
> B rolled 6-6-4 => ends in 77 again.
>
> Last roll was 4 and now it is G's turn.
>
>
> |
691 | [Cognitive Science private beta](http://cogsci.stackexchange.com) has just started. I would imagine [there will be an overlap](https://ux.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/669/consider-committing-to-the-cognitive-sciences-stack-exchange-proposal) with this new site. How will we handle this overlap?
Can we draw a line what is out of scope here and better refer to Cognitive Science?
P.s.: I started [a similar topic on Cognitive Science](https://cogsci.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/1/are-questions-about-human-computer-interaction-hci-research-on-or-off-topic). | 2012/01/18 | [
"https://ux.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/691",
"https://ux.meta.stackexchange.com",
"https://ux.meta.stackexchange.com/users/3612/"
] | I don't think it's productive to fret over putting every question in the right bucket. When a cog-sci oriented question is asked here, we should evaluate it the same way we did before that site was created. If it doesn't fit here, we then have a separate decision of whether it should be migrated or simply closed. (Of course, the same applies to UX oriented questions on Cognitive Science.) | My feeling is that there is a division between the sites in most cases, because UX should relate to application design questions ( in a very broad way ) whereas CS should handle scientific or theoretical questions.
In my time here, I think there have been a few - very few - questions that really overlap. What is probably more useful is for members here who have interest or knowledge to join CS, and vv, so that UX questions can also have CS insights, and CS questions can, where relevant, also have UX insights. |
151,589 | I am currently trying to wire the logic for my dual 7-segment display.
I am stuck at my AND gate, and having tried an OR gate as well I have been unable to find why, regardless of input, the output of the gate is always supplying current.
Below the inputs are shown as leading to nothing, Va is set on my DC power supply as "5V FIXED 3A."
In accordance with the diagram, the 7408 chip is being supplied the 5V in the top right and grounded on the bottom left.
Could anyone point out what mistake I am making that is causing for this AND gate to supply current regardless of the input?
Thank You!
 | 2015/01/29 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/151589",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/65510/"
] | Yup. That's a classic, all right. One of the interesting characteristics of the 7400-series TTL logic family is that an open input behaves like a logic HIGH. It's not good practice to do this, since such unused inputs can act like antennas and start picking up noise, but it's working just fine in your case.
In your circuit, tie each input to +5 with a 1k resistor. When you want to drive that input LOW, just ground it.
And since you're just starting, you need to start developing good habits. That means do not leave any inputs on a chip floating. You can usually get away with it with TTL and LSTTL, but it will drive you crazy if you do it with CMOS. In this case, tie all 6 unused inputs of the 7408 together, and tie the whole thing to +5 with a 1k resistor.
Also, get a 0.1 uF ceramic capacitor, and connect it between pins 7 and 14. This is called a decoupling, or bypass, capacitor, and for more complicated circuits one capacitor per IC is a very, very good idea, with each capacitor connected right to the power and ground pins of its' IC. It doesn't have to be a high-voltage capacitor, since it will only have 5 volts on it. | Bipolar TTL inputs will (usually) appear as High (logic 1) when not connected to anything. They must be connected to ground, either directly or via the output of another chip, to be seen as Low (logic 0). This applies to the plain 74xx, 74LS, 74ALS logic families.
For the CMOS versions (74HC, 74AC), the inputs are very high impedance and must always be connected to something - either Vcc, Ground, or the outputs of other parts. They must never be left unconnected. |
2,828,611 | I'm considering using the [VB6 Common Controls Replacement Project](http://ccrp.mvps.org/) controls and would like to see what other's experiences with them are.
Specifically:
1. What do you need to distribute with them? (I assume just the .OCX file)
2. Do I need to register the .ocx file or just include in the app directory?
3. Do these controls depend on any other ocx's? (There is mention, for example in the Progress Bar replacement that it is using COMCTL32.DLL but the .DEP file does not list that DLL.
4. Are they at least as robust as the controls they replace? | 2010/05/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/2828611",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4906/"
] | I've used various of the CCRP components in various projects (specifically BrowseDialog, FileDialogs, FolderTreeview and High-Performance Timer) and have had no problems with them. To answer your questions:
1) Just the OCX or dll is required to distribute them.
2) Yes they need to be registered.
3) The controls they depend on will be on every system (comctl32.dll is all of the common windows controls and no GDI app without it).
4) The ones I have used I have never had an incident with. I haven't used all of them, so I can't speak for all of them, but they were always very robust for me. | 1-3) The DLLs are presumed to be on every system -- you distribute (and register) the OCX only.
4) What controls do they replace? |
2,828,611 | I'm considering using the [VB6 Common Controls Replacement Project](http://ccrp.mvps.org/) controls and would like to see what other's experiences with them are.
Specifically:
1. What do you need to distribute with them? (I assume just the .OCX file)
2. Do I need to register the .ocx file or just include in the app directory?
3. Do these controls depend on any other ocx's? (There is mention, for example in the Progress Bar replacement that it is using COMCTL32.DLL but the .DEP file does not list that DLL.
4. Are they at least as robust as the controls they replace? | 2010/05/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/2828611",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4906/"
] | We have several apps that have used the CCRP FolderTreeview successfully for years. We have been seeing very hard to find crashes running on Widows 8, and believe we have isolated them to some strange interaction between the FolderTreeview and Windows Explorer instances open on the same folder.
If this is confirmed, it would suggest that you really don't want to use the CCRP FolderTreeview anymore. | 1-3) The DLLs are presumed to be on every system -- you distribute (and register) the OCX only.
4) What controls do they replace? |
2,828,611 | I'm considering using the [VB6 Common Controls Replacement Project](http://ccrp.mvps.org/) controls and would like to see what other's experiences with them are.
Specifically:
1. What do you need to distribute with them? (I assume just the .OCX file)
2. Do I need to register the .ocx file or just include in the app directory?
3. Do these controls depend on any other ocx's? (There is mention, for example in the Progress Bar replacement that it is using COMCTL32.DLL but the .DEP file does not list that DLL.
4. Are they at least as robust as the controls they replace? | 2010/05/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/2828611",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4906/"
] | As of this time, the CCRP project seems to have been dead for a long time (website copyright is 2004).
*However* there is a different, living, and apparently successful replacement project which may be useful:
<http://www.vbforums.com/showthread.php?841929-VB6-ActiveX-CommonControls-%28Replacement-of-the-MS-common-controls%29&p=5129155#post5129155>
I have used this in projects and it works well. Note that there are several variants of the VBCCR library including an OCX as well as code which is meant to be compiled into your own program. | 1-3) The DLLs are presumed to be on every system -- you distribute (and register) the OCX only.
4) What controls do they replace? |
2,828,611 | I'm considering using the [VB6 Common Controls Replacement Project](http://ccrp.mvps.org/) controls and would like to see what other's experiences with them are.
Specifically:
1. What do you need to distribute with them? (I assume just the .OCX file)
2. Do I need to register the .ocx file or just include in the app directory?
3. Do these controls depend on any other ocx's? (There is mention, for example in the Progress Bar replacement that it is using COMCTL32.DLL but the .DEP file does not list that DLL.
4. Are they at least as robust as the controls they replace? | 2010/05/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/2828611",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4906/"
] | I've used various of the CCRP components in various projects (specifically BrowseDialog, FileDialogs, FolderTreeview and High-Performance Timer) and have had no problems with them. To answer your questions:
1) Just the OCX or dll is required to distribute them.
2) Yes they need to be registered.
3) The controls they depend on will be on every system (comctl32.dll is all of the common windows controls and no GDI app without it).
4) The ones I have used I have never had an incident with. I haven't used all of them, so I can't speak for all of them, but they were always very robust for me. | We have several apps that have used the CCRP FolderTreeview successfully for years. We have been seeing very hard to find crashes running on Widows 8, and believe we have isolated them to some strange interaction between the FolderTreeview and Windows Explorer instances open on the same folder.
If this is confirmed, it would suggest that you really don't want to use the CCRP FolderTreeview anymore. |
2,828,611 | I'm considering using the [VB6 Common Controls Replacement Project](http://ccrp.mvps.org/) controls and would like to see what other's experiences with them are.
Specifically:
1. What do you need to distribute with them? (I assume just the .OCX file)
2. Do I need to register the .ocx file or just include in the app directory?
3. Do these controls depend on any other ocx's? (There is mention, for example in the Progress Bar replacement that it is using COMCTL32.DLL but the .DEP file does not list that DLL.
4. Are they at least as robust as the controls they replace? | 2010/05/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/2828611",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/4906/"
] | I've used various of the CCRP components in various projects (specifically BrowseDialog, FileDialogs, FolderTreeview and High-Performance Timer) and have had no problems with them. To answer your questions:
1) Just the OCX or dll is required to distribute them.
2) Yes they need to be registered.
3) The controls they depend on will be on every system (comctl32.dll is all of the common windows controls and no GDI app without it).
4) The ones I have used I have never had an incident with. I haven't used all of them, so I can't speak for all of them, but they were always very robust for me. | As of this time, the CCRP project seems to have been dead for a long time (website copyright is 2004).
*However* there is a different, living, and apparently successful replacement project which may be useful:
<http://www.vbforums.com/showthread.php?841929-VB6-ActiveX-CommonControls-%28Replacement-of-the-MS-common-controls%29&p=5129155#post5129155>
I have used this in projects and it works well. Note that there are several variants of the VBCCR library including an OCX as well as code which is meant to be compiled into your own program. |
128,892 | Situation: A rented flat with a busy street right in front of it.
The bed room faces towards the street with a window front.
As the flat is rented I can not build something permanently like new windows or a wall. I already thougt about styrofoam plates, other foam or heavy curtains but don't know what is usable.
According to a municpial computer model the noise is between 55-75 dbA in 4m height from the ground. The flat is like 10-15m from the ground.
**How could I reduce the noise from the street?**
Edit: As it was suggested that this question is a duplicate of [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/41533/how-can-i-reduce-street-noise-behind-my-house) and [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/88042/how-to-isolate-street-noise-from-the-garden?rq=1): I don't have a garden and can not set up a wall. My question is only about inhouse insulation.
Edit 2: The noise is mostly a problem during bedtime as it disturbs the sleep. Foam earplugs are not a solution for everyone due to medical reasons. | 2017/12/12 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/128892",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/79002/"
] | I use a white noise generator while sleeping. These devices can provide a neutral sound that is fairly relaxing, while drowning out most of the street noise.
This isn't a 100% solution, but it's something that sits on your night stand/dresser and doesn't have to cost a lot. It can also be taken with you on vacation.
These usually have multiple options for sounds, so if you like trains, ocean waves, birds, or whatever, there's probably a setting for you. Mine has 11 options (IIRC), and I use the rain storm option exclusively.
I think I've even heard of phone apps to do the same thing.
You might be able to get a white noise generator device with an oil/scent option, to further help relaxing. This is usually a paper or cotton pad that you put scented oil on, which has a tiny fan to under it to spread the aroma. I never used it, but it's something to think about.
FYI, pink noise is *not* white noise. | Since you specifically mention the bedroom, should I assume you're mostly concerned with noise during the time you'll be in bed? If so, the crazy cheap way to fix the problem is foam earplugs. Might take a little while to get used to sleeping in them. My only worry would be the elevated risk in case of fire or burglary... |
128,892 | Situation: A rented flat with a busy street right in front of it.
The bed room faces towards the street with a window front.
As the flat is rented I can not build something permanently like new windows or a wall. I already thougt about styrofoam plates, other foam or heavy curtains but don't know what is usable.
According to a municpial computer model the noise is between 55-75 dbA in 4m height from the ground. The flat is like 10-15m from the ground.
**How could I reduce the noise from the street?**
Edit: As it was suggested that this question is a duplicate of [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/41533/how-can-i-reduce-street-noise-behind-my-house) and [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/88042/how-to-isolate-street-noise-from-the-garden?rq=1): I don't have a garden and can not set up a wall. My question is only about inhouse insulation.
Edit 2: The noise is mostly a problem during bedtime as it disturbs the sleep. Foam earplugs are not a solution for everyone due to medical reasons. | 2017/12/12 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/128892",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/79002/"
] | I use a white noise generator while sleeping. These devices can provide a neutral sound that is fairly relaxing, while drowning out most of the street noise.
This isn't a 100% solution, but it's something that sits on your night stand/dresser and doesn't have to cost a lot. It can also be taken with you on vacation.
These usually have multiple options for sounds, so if you like trains, ocean waves, birds, or whatever, there's probably a setting for you. Mine has 11 options (IIRC), and I use the rain storm option exclusively.
I think I've even heard of phone apps to do the same thing.
You might be able to get a white noise generator device with an oil/scent option, to further help relaxing. This is usually a paper or cotton pad that you put scented oil on, which has a tiny fan to under it to spread the aroma. I never used it, but it's something to think about.
FYI, pink noise is *not* white noise. | If you have an older home with original windows, replacing them with modern insulated glass (aka double glazing, double pane, etc.) will provide the biggest improvement. Any insulated glass will be much better than non-insulated glass, but you can also get special kinds of insulated glass for sound isolation.
A further step would be adding additional insulation to your exterior walls. I don't know a lot about this, but I've seen done cheaply by adding sound insulation on top of the drywall, then adding another sheet of drywall on 1" wood spacers. Of course, this means you loose a tiny bit of interior space. |
128,892 | Situation: A rented flat with a busy street right in front of it.
The bed room faces towards the street with a window front.
As the flat is rented I can not build something permanently like new windows or a wall. I already thougt about styrofoam plates, other foam or heavy curtains but don't know what is usable.
According to a municpial computer model the noise is between 55-75 dbA in 4m height from the ground. The flat is like 10-15m from the ground.
**How could I reduce the noise from the street?**
Edit: As it was suggested that this question is a duplicate of [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/41533/how-can-i-reduce-street-noise-behind-my-house) and [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/88042/how-to-isolate-street-noise-from-the-garden?rq=1): I don't have a garden and can not set up a wall. My question is only about inhouse insulation.
Edit 2: The noise is mostly a problem during bedtime as it disturbs the sleep. Foam earplugs are not a solution for everyone due to medical reasons. | 2017/12/12 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/128892",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/79002/"
] | I use a white noise generator while sleeping. These devices can provide a neutral sound that is fairly relaxing, while drowning out most of the street noise.
This isn't a 100% solution, but it's something that sits on your night stand/dresser and doesn't have to cost a lot. It can also be taken with you on vacation.
These usually have multiple options for sounds, so if you like trains, ocean waves, birds, or whatever, there's probably a setting for you. Mine has 11 options (IIRC), and I use the rain storm option exclusively.
I think I've even heard of phone apps to do the same thing.
You might be able to get a white noise generator device with an oil/scent option, to further help relaxing. This is usually a paper or cotton pad that you put scented oil on, which has a tiny fan to under it to spread the aroma. I never used it, but it's something to think about.
FYI, pink noise is *not* white noise. | Your options are limited and not too effective due to the fact that you are renting and thus need something that is not permanent and affordable. YOu can look into getting "board panels" that you hang on the walls and that might help. These boards are made of different materials for different application. Read through these website for information about which kind will suit your problem best: <https://www.atsacoustics.com/page--Selecting-the-Right-Acoustic-Material--ac.html>
Good Luck
NOTE: I am not promoting the website or the products there. I just find their page about insulation type informative. |
128,892 | Situation: A rented flat with a busy street right in front of it.
The bed room faces towards the street with a window front.
As the flat is rented I can not build something permanently like new windows or a wall. I already thougt about styrofoam plates, other foam or heavy curtains but don't know what is usable.
According to a municpial computer model the noise is between 55-75 dbA in 4m height from the ground. The flat is like 10-15m from the ground.
**How could I reduce the noise from the street?**
Edit: As it was suggested that this question is a duplicate of [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/41533/how-can-i-reduce-street-noise-behind-my-house) and [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/88042/how-to-isolate-street-noise-from-the-garden?rq=1): I don't have a garden and can not set up a wall. My question is only about inhouse insulation.
Edit 2: The noise is mostly a problem during bedtime as it disturbs the sleep. Foam earplugs are not a solution for everyone due to medical reasons. | 2017/12/12 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/128892",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/79002/"
] | I use a white noise generator while sleeping. These devices can provide a neutral sound that is fairly relaxing, while drowning out most of the street noise.
This isn't a 100% solution, but it's something that sits on your night stand/dresser and doesn't have to cost a lot. It can also be taken with you on vacation.
These usually have multiple options for sounds, so if you like trains, ocean waves, birds, or whatever, there's probably a setting for you. Mine has 11 options (IIRC), and I use the rain storm option exclusively.
I think I've even heard of phone apps to do the same thing.
You might be able to get a white noise generator device with an oil/scent option, to further help relaxing. This is usually a paper or cotton pad that you put scented oil on, which has a tiny fan to under it to spread the aroma. I never used it, but it's something to think about.
FYI, pink noise is *not* white noise. | 
Place one of these on the street 200 feet in either direction of your house. |
128,892 | Situation: A rented flat with a busy street right in front of it.
The bed room faces towards the street with a window front.
As the flat is rented I can not build something permanently like new windows or a wall. I already thougt about styrofoam plates, other foam or heavy curtains but don't know what is usable.
According to a municpial computer model the noise is between 55-75 dbA in 4m height from the ground. The flat is like 10-15m from the ground.
**How could I reduce the noise from the street?**
Edit: As it was suggested that this question is a duplicate of [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/41533/how-can-i-reduce-street-noise-behind-my-house) and [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/88042/how-to-isolate-street-noise-from-the-garden?rq=1): I don't have a garden and can not set up a wall. My question is only about inhouse insulation.
Edit 2: The noise is mostly a problem during bedtime as it disturbs the sleep. Foam earplugs are not a solution for everyone due to medical reasons. | 2017/12/12 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/128892",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/79002/"
] | I use a white noise generator while sleeping. These devices can provide a neutral sound that is fairly relaxing, while drowning out most of the street noise.
This isn't a 100% solution, but it's something that sits on your night stand/dresser and doesn't have to cost a lot. It can also be taken with you on vacation.
These usually have multiple options for sounds, so if you like trains, ocean waves, birds, or whatever, there's probably a setting for you. Mine has 11 options (IIRC), and I use the rain storm option exclusively.
I think I've even heard of phone apps to do the same thing.
You might be able to get a white noise generator device with an oil/scent option, to further help relaxing. This is usually a paper or cotton pad that you put scented oil on, which has a tiny fan to under it to spread the aroma. I never used it, but it's something to think about.
FYI, pink noise is *not* white noise. | If the bedroom is in the front of the house and the road is in front of the house, change the use of rooms so the bedroom is in the back of the house.
Otherwise, move to a quiet place in the country. You've claimed you can't do pretty much anything else that would help.
A meter available for a few Dollars/Pounds/Euros could give you a sound measurement (rather than a model), as can most smartphones. |
128,892 | Situation: A rented flat with a busy street right in front of it.
The bed room faces towards the street with a window front.
As the flat is rented I can not build something permanently like new windows or a wall. I already thougt about styrofoam plates, other foam or heavy curtains but don't know what is usable.
According to a municpial computer model the noise is between 55-75 dbA in 4m height from the ground. The flat is like 10-15m from the ground.
**How could I reduce the noise from the street?**
Edit: As it was suggested that this question is a duplicate of [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/41533/how-can-i-reduce-street-noise-behind-my-house) and [this one](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/88042/how-to-isolate-street-noise-from-the-garden?rq=1): I don't have a garden and can not set up a wall. My question is only about inhouse insulation.
Edit 2: The noise is mostly a problem during bedtime as it disturbs the sleep. Foam earplugs are not a solution for everyone due to medical reasons. | 2017/12/12 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/128892",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/79002/"
] | I use a white noise generator while sleeping. These devices can provide a neutral sound that is fairly relaxing, while drowning out most of the street noise.
This isn't a 100% solution, but it's something that sits on your night stand/dresser and doesn't have to cost a lot. It can also be taken with you on vacation.
These usually have multiple options for sounds, so if you like trains, ocean waves, birds, or whatever, there's probably a setting for you. Mine has 11 options (IIRC), and I use the rain storm option exclusively.
I think I've even heard of phone apps to do the same thing.
You might be able to get a white noise generator device with an oil/scent option, to further help relaxing. This is usually a paper or cotton pad that you put scented oil on, which has a tiny fan to under it to spread the aroma. I never used it, but it's something to think about.
FYI, pink noise is *not* white noise. | You can typically buy up to 2" thick foam insulation board from a home improvement store, around $20 for a 4 foot by 8 foot sheet. Very cheap and lightweight, that could help cut down the noise. You want it as close to the wall as possible, and as far away from you as possible. Ideally you'd block the window as well since that is most likely letting more noise in than the walls. Then you'd have no light though, so it's a choice to consider. |
287,551 | A recent [question about StyleCop](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/286180/) alerted me to the use of tools to enforce coding style. I would feel very annoyed if I were required to run one of these tools while I was developing. Do people really find them useful? Why or why not?
Everyone that has answered so far has indicated that they think that style/formatting rules are useful, and I am in 100% agreement with that. But what about using a tool for enforcement, rather than a style guide and regular code reviews? Have people found that useful in practice? Why or why not? | 2008/11/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/287551",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/21365/"
] | I like the concept of StyleCop, although I don't really care for a lot of the rules. Style is just so subjective that I find myself struggling to firmly decide if it should be part of our process or not. I really would prefer to see the team with a unified style, though, which is why I am so torn.
Obviously, the flip-side of the equation, with a tool like FxCop (or Code Analysis for fellow TFS users) is more based on practices, so the decision becomes more technical than personal and stylistic. | If you are using a version control system, it can get very ugly if every developer reformats the code towards his own preferences whenever he touches a file. In a place where the developers don't have the necessary communication skills, Wikipedia-like edit-wars can ensue if each developer passive-aggressively sticks to "his" standard.
Overall, manual reformatting also leads to more conflicts on checkins if two people work on the same file.
So if you are using a VCS, I'd even recommend enforcing formatting rules. Enforcing style rules can lead to better code quality. |
287,551 | A recent [question about StyleCop](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/286180/) alerted me to the use of tools to enforce coding style. I would feel very annoyed if I were required to run one of these tools while I was developing. Do people really find them useful? Why or why not?
Everyone that has answered so far has indicated that they think that style/formatting rules are useful, and I am in 100% agreement with that. But what about using a tool for enforcement, rather than a style guide and regular code reviews? Have people found that useful in practice? Why or why not? | 2008/11/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/287551",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/21365/"
] | There is a difference between a Coding style and a Formatting style.
A coding style enforces good practices.
the body of a 'IF' statement must be wrapped in opening and closing curly brackets
A formatting style is how the code looks.
where the '{' comes in an 'IF' statement.
In a team environment;
a good formatting tool will allow all the developers to see the code the way they want to see the code.
a good style tool will insure all the code follows the same guidelines | If style refers to *formatting* (like '{' must be at the end or at the beginning of a line), it can be very annoying, especially if merges are involves and if that style is not strictly enforced for all developers.
If style refers to '**good practice**" (like the body of a 'if' statement must be wrapped in opening and closing curly brackets), it can be actually very useful. |
287,551 | A recent [question about StyleCop](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/286180/) alerted me to the use of tools to enforce coding style. I would feel very annoyed if I were required to run one of these tools while I was developing. Do people really find them useful? Why or why not?
Everyone that has answered so far has indicated that they think that style/formatting rules are useful, and I am in 100% agreement with that. But what about using a tool for enforcement, rather than a style guide and regular code reviews? Have people found that useful in practice? Why or why not? | 2008/11/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/287551",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/21365/"
] | Yes, it's very helpful - particularly in large projects. It means you can go to anyone else's code, and it won't look alien to you. This means that people are more portable across projects, which gives a lot more flexibility - both for the person and the company.
The downside is that a lot of time can be spent arguing over which style to use. | I think in a large team, a uniform coding style is essential. Having some standard helps with maintainability, in that a new developer can be brought on to maintain old code, with minimal learning curve.
As far as *enforcing* styling differences (such as where the '{' comes) can be very easily be accomplished by automated tools, without imposing on the development process too much. Eclipse and Visual Studio both have a very rich set of options to format your code automatically based on a large set of options. |
287,551 | A recent [question about StyleCop](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/286180/) alerted me to the use of tools to enforce coding style. I would feel very annoyed if I were required to run one of these tools while I was developing. Do people really find them useful? Why or why not?
Everyone that has answered so far has indicated that they think that style/formatting rules are useful, and I am in 100% agreement with that. But what about using a tool for enforcement, rather than a style guide and regular code reviews? Have people found that useful in practice? Why or why not? | 2008/11/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/287551",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/21365/"
] | I like the concept of StyleCop, although I don't really care for a lot of the rules. Style is just so subjective that I find myself struggling to firmly decide if it should be part of our process or not. I really would prefer to see the team with a unified style, though, which is why I am so torn.
Obviously, the flip-side of the equation, with a tool like FxCop (or Code Analysis for fellow TFS users) is more based on practices, so the decision becomes more technical than personal and stylistic. | Restrictions on programming or formatting style might help reducing friction in a team of more than one person.
Restrictions on language features (especially using only a subset of C#) can help you concentrate on the problem domain instead of having to deal with an overwhelming number of concepts. This does matter if your software has to be robust and thoroughly understandable.
Regards,
tamberg |
287,551 | A recent [question about StyleCop](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/286180/) alerted me to the use of tools to enforce coding style. I would feel very annoyed if I were required to run one of these tools while I was developing. Do people really find them useful? Why or why not?
Everyone that has answered so far has indicated that they think that style/formatting rules are useful, and I am in 100% agreement with that. But what about using a tool for enforcement, rather than a style guide and regular code reviews? Have people found that useful in practice? Why or why not? | 2008/11/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/287551",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/21365/"
] | I like the concept of StyleCop, although I don't really care for a lot of the rules. Style is just so subjective that I find myself struggling to firmly decide if it should be part of our process or not. I really would prefer to see the team with a unified style, though, which is why I am so torn.
Obviously, the flip-side of the equation, with a tool like FxCop (or Code Analysis for fellow TFS users) is more based on practices, so the decision becomes more technical than personal and stylistic. | If style refers to *formatting* (like '{' must be at the end or at the beginning of a line), it can be very annoying, especially if merges are involves and if that style is not strictly enforced for all developers.
If style refers to '**good practice**" (like the body of a 'if' statement must be wrapped in opening and closing curly brackets), it can be actually very useful. |
287,551 | A recent [question about StyleCop](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/286180/) alerted me to the use of tools to enforce coding style. I would feel very annoyed if I were required to run one of these tools while I was developing. Do people really find them useful? Why or why not?
Everyone that has answered so far has indicated that they think that style/formatting rules are useful, and I am in 100% agreement with that. But what about using a tool for enforcement, rather than a style guide and regular code reviews? Have people found that useful in practice? Why or why not? | 2008/11/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/287551",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/21365/"
] | I like the concept of StyleCop, although I don't really care for a lot of the rules. Style is just so subjective that I find myself struggling to firmly decide if it should be part of our process or not. I really would prefer to see the team with a unified style, though, which is why I am so torn.
Obviously, the flip-side of the equation, with a tool like FxCop (or Code Analysis for fellow TFS users) is more based on practices, so the decision becomes more technical than personal and stylistic. | I think in a large team, a uniform coding style is essential. Having some standard helps with maintainability, in that a new developer can be brought on to maintain old code, with minimal learning curve.
As far as *enforcing* styling differences (such as where the '{' comes) can be very easily be accomplished by automated tools, without imposing on the development process too much. Eclipse and Visual Studio both have a very rich set of options to format your code automatically based on a large set of options. |
287,551 | A recent [question about StyleCop](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/286180/) alerted me to the use of tools to enforce coding style. I would feel very annoyed if I were required to run one of these tools while I was developing. Do people really find them useful? Why or why not?
Everyone that has answered so far has indicated that they think that style/formatting rules are useful, and I am in 100% agreement with that. But what about using a tool for enforcement, rather than a style guide and regular code reviews? Have people found that useful in practice? Why or why not? | 2008/11/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/287551",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/21365/"
] | There is a difference between a Coding style and a Formatting style.
A coding style enforces good practices.
the body of a 'IF' statement must be wrapped in opening and closing curly brackets
A formatting style is how the code looks.
where the '{' comes in an 'IF' statement.
In a team environment;
a good formatting tool will allow all the developers to see the code the way they want to see the code.
a good style tool will insure all the code follows the same guidelines | I think in a large team, a uniform coding style is essential. Having some standard helps with maintainability, in that a new developer can be brought on to maintain old code, with minimal learning curve.
As far as *enforcing* styling differences (such as where the '{' comes) can be very easily be accomplished by automated tools, without imposing on the development process too much. Eclipse and Visual Studio both have a very rich set of options to format your code automatically based on a large set of options. |
287,551 | A recent [question about StyleCop](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/286180/) alerted me to the use of tools to enforce coding style. I would feel very annoyed if I were required to run one of these tools while I was developing. Do people really find them useful? Why or why not?
Everyone that has answered so far has indicated that they think that style/formatting rules are useful, and I am in 100% agreement with that. But what about using a tool for enforcement, rather than a style guide and regular code reviews? Have people found that useful in practice? Why or why not? | 2008/11/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/287551",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/21365/"
] | There is a difference between a Coding style and a Formatting style.
A coding style enforces good practices.
the body of a 'IF' statement must be wrapped in opening and closing curly brackets
A formatting style is how the code looks.
where the '{' comes in an 'IF' statement.
In a team environment;
a good formatting tool will allow all the developers to see the code the way they want to see the code.
a good style tool will insure all the code follows the same guidelines | Restrictions on programming or formatting style might help reducing friction in a team of more than one person.
Restrictions on language features (especially using only a subset of C#) can help you concentrate on the problem domain instead of having to deal with an overwhelming number of concepts. This does matter if your software has to be robust and thoroughly understandable.
Regards,
tamberg |
287,551 | A recent [question about StyleCop](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/286180/) alerted me to the use of tools to enforce coding style. I would feel very annoyed if I were required to run one of these tools while I was developing. Do people really find them useful? Why or why not?
Everyone that has answered so far has indicated that they think that style/formatting rules are useful, and I am in 100% agreement with that. But what about using a tool for enforcement, rather than a style guide and regular code reviews? Have people found that useful in practice? Why or why not? | 2008/11/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/287551",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/21365/"
] | There is a difference between a Coding style and a Formatting style.
A coding style enforces good practices.
the body of a 'IF' statement must be wrapped in opening and closing curly brackets
A formatting style is how the code looks.
where the '{' comes in an 'IF' statement.
In a team environment;
a good formatting tool will allow all the developers to see the code the way they want to see the code.
a good style tool will insure all the code follows the same guidelines | If you are using a version control system, it can get very ugly if every developer reformats the code towards his own preferences whenever he touches a file. In a place where the developers don't have the necessary communication skills, Wikipedia-like edit-wars can ensue if each developer passive-aggressively sticks to "his" standard.
Overall, manual reformatting also leads to more conflicts on checkins if two people work on the same file.
So if you are using a VCS, I'd even recommend enforcing formatting rules. Enforcing style rules can lead to better code quality. |
287,551 | A recent [question about StyleCop](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/286180/) alerted me to the use of tools to enforce coding style. I would feel very annoyed if I were required to run one of these tools while I was developing. Do people really find them useful? Why or why not?
Everyone that has answered so far has indicated that they think that style/formatting rules are useful, and I am in 100% agreement with that. But what about using a tool for enforcement, rather than a style guide and regular code reviews? Have people found that useful in practice? Why or why not? | 2008/11/13 | [
"https://Stackoverflow.com/questions/287551",
"https://Stackoverflow.com",
"https://Stackoverflow.com/users/21365/"
] | Yes, it's very helpful - particularly in large projects. It means you can go to anyone else's code, and it won't look alien to you. This means that people are more portable across projects, which gives a lot more flexibility - both for the person and the company.
The downside is that a lot of time can be spent arguing over which style to use. | Restrictions on programming or formatting style might help reducing friction in a team of more than one person.
Restrictions on language features (especially using only a subset of C#) can help you concentrate on the problem domain instead of having to deal with an overwhelming number of concepts. This does matter if your software has to be robust and thoroughly understandable.
Regards,
tamberg |
1,263 | It is 14:24 here. When I was last on Superuser around 10 hours ago, my reputation was 9147 but now it is 8788. The problem is, yesterday some person gave me votes on my questions excessively and when I checked my reputation window, I saw that there are lots of consecutive votes on my questions one coming after another. As far as I remember, the total points were 160 and I thought that the system would automatically take those points back, but now I see that I've lost more than 160 points because of someone I don't know who apparently is voting excessively for probably getting the "Electorate" badge. According to my calculation, I lost 199 reps because of him and I need this to be corrected.
As far as I understand, in this specific case the system is punishing me as it thinks as if I gave myself votes using a sockpuppet account; but I'm the victim here. | 2010/08/15 | [
"https://meta.superuser.com/questions/1263",
"https://meta.superuser.com",
"https://meta.superuser.com/users/13567/"
] | When the automatic reputation recalc happens, it takes away all of the invalid votes from that other user.
Not only that, it will then run through the entire audit and work out your new correct reputation score.
Keep in mind, any questions since deleted between when you last had your recalc and now will not be included.
At the end of last month, many off-topic, subjective/argumentative, migrated out and duplicate questions were cleaned up as part of regular housekeeping. Most of that means deletion, merging in the case of duplicates.
Your new reputation is far lower than you expected now because of deleted questions/answers you've posted to are no longer "there" to account the reputation for.
This is why you've noticed a far larger drop than the flurry of votes being corrected for. | This is probably not a punishment against you, but just a recalc of your reputation.
Visit <https://superuser.com/reputation> when logged in to see your full (and *accurate*) rep report (although that won't help *now*, after a recalc).
Some posts to check on the primary meta:
* [What can cause Actual rep to differ from Shown rep?](https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/49467/what-can-cause-actual-rep-to-differ-from-shown-rep)
* [Why would I lose rep overnight - could it be related to multiple upvotes from a colleague?](https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/56853/why-would-i-lose-rep-overnight-could-it-be-related-to-multiple-upvotes-from-a-c)
* [rep-recalc tag](https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/rep-recalc)
---
### Short Explaination
Over time, your visible rep score begins to differ from what it should be. Some actions don't reverse their rep changes instantly - for example I know when I was a relatively new user I downvoted someone and then they deleted their answer, this was my first down-vote so I was paying it more attention than usual so had noticed the post was gone, but also that I did not get my 1 rep point back - but <https://superuser.com/reputation> scored me 1 point higher than the site.
**Personal example:** At this moment I seem to have 7rep too much (1271 on site, 1264 on rep sheet). I would *guess* this is from 3 down-votes I've made on things now deleted (I know at least 2 things I've downvoted before were deleted) and an up-vote on something else that has now been deleted. If/when I get a recalc, I will lose those 7 rep. |
328 | What legalities would be involved in the US? I've only dabbled in programming here and there and seem to be jumping around. Where would someone start on a project like this, I've got the time to learn. I just need some idea of what order to go in. | 2018/01/27 | [
"https://stellar.stackexchange.com/questions/328",
"https://stellar.stackexchange.com",
"https://stellar.stackexchange.com/users/540/"
] | Not legal advice here for the record. As far as I'm aware you should do kyc and aml checks. The compliance server for anchors can automate this, however I'm not sure how to automate looking up the names and addresses to check if they are on a sanctions list. Maybe someone else on here might know how? | I found this along with some other information on creating stellar QR codes. However the plugin only works with wordpress.
<http://mwplug.com/> & <https://cwaqrgen.com/xlm>
Seems simple enough for what I need to do. As far as what I've found out so far, There's no legalities preventing me from say going to a small business and educating them on how easy it can be to just print out a wallet and accept cryptocurrency. All while explaining the risks and volatility as well as how to keep detailed records for taxes. |
217,775 | I am adding a small office shed (10x12') to my property, and need electrical power to run a mini-split HVAC system, plus a few LED light fixtures, and plugs for my laptop, a printer, and maybe a small speaker (Sonos-type).
Shed will be roughly 65 feet from the nearest corner of the (2-story) house.
Will the NEC (and its adopted clauses for Arlington, VA) allow me to run my own aerial drop from the top corner of my house over to the shed?
I would install a mast on the shed to terminate the aerial drop, which would be about 65' from house to shed.
I loathe the thought of trenching & placing conduit due either to the likely destruction of a large tree (at least 25% of the roots would be cut) or the need to cut a 2'-wide swath through a slate-on-gravel patio.
My property is small (75' wide), my house is smaller (25' wide), and with the tree and the hardscaping, there are no good options for trenching. (Unless I could get one of those industrial conduit placers that the telecoms use which essentially tunnel underground for 30-50' at a time). | 2021/03/02 | [
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/217775",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com",
"https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/130976/"
] | Virginia is on the 2014 code according to the NEC adoption map.
NEC 225.18.1 thru 5 provide clearance requirements.
10’ is acceptable for foot traffic only area.
12’ if there is a driveway.
18’ if there will be truck traffic.
65’ is not excessively long for a single span of an aluminum feeder but I would not try copper. The weight causes more sag thus more tension is required to maintain your minimum height. Aluminum feeder will cost less also.
We don’t know your total load but a messenger wire probably be enough for 65’ with aluminum. If you go to 1/4” aluminum messenger cable (not a single wire) you now have a ground that can be used with your 3 insulated conductors sunlight resistant type or a multi conductor cable.
Edit: I double checked and these references will be helpful.
6awg aluminum can span that distance NEC 225.6 I do much larger runs so I am used to messenger wires.
If you connect below the roof you need to be 3’ away from any window openings 230.9.A.
Above the roof check out 230.4 for those clearances.
And remember make your run at least 6” taller at the lowest sag point because a hot day the cable may sag that much it really can. | Yes, the NEC lets you do that
-----------------------------
The NEC has absolutely no problem with letting you have your very own overhead cable run. This is called *messenger supported wiring*, and can be done using by lashing a UF cable to a separate messenger wire, as per NEC Table 396.10(A). However, a more conventional approach to this is to use an overhead multiplex cable, much like the ones used for service drops, although with an extra wire included since you're running a feeder, not a service. It's also somewhat cheaper to use the multiplex cable, as a 6-6-6-6 "Chola" quadruplex costs about the same per foot as 12/3 UF-B, and the latter requires a separate messenger wire.
So, we'll start with that for our 65' run. Since we're dealing with an "open multiconductor cable", the NEC 225.18 minimum clearance of 10' from the finished grade or sidewalk to the bottom of the cable sag applies, provided you aren't crossing a driveway. (If you do have to go over the driveway, then you have to increase the clearance to 12'.)
So, given our quadruplex cable from above at 0.162lbs/ft and about 0.625" diameter, the sag and tension calculations from the NESC as restated on [pp. 33-35 of Southwire's installation manual](https://www.anixter.com/content/dam/Suppliers/Southwire/Literature/envirotectPowerCableInstallManual.pdf), and the fact that we're dealing with "Heavy" ice loading as per the [NESC's ice/wind loading figures and your location](https://electricalengineerresources.com/2020/02/24/loading-analysis-of-transmission-and-distribution-structures-based-on-nesc-2017/#C_NESC_Weather_Loadings_Rule_250), we get an ice loading of 0.698lb/ft, a wind loading of 0.542lb/ft, and a resulting cable load weight of 1.32lb/ft. From there, we can use that, your 65' span, and a 1.5' sag to get a loaded tension of 465 lbs, which is well under 50% of the 1190lb load rating on our "Chola" cable's integral 6AWG ACSR messenger. We then add 6" to this to provide a margin for heat sag.
As to getting up to 12' or more above ground...
-----------------------------------------------
Obviously, you'll need a mast with a weatherhead at the shed; this can be done using a single stick of 1.25" RMC with some 1.25" two-hole straps, a 1" nipple, a 1.25" to 1" reducer bushing, and a 1" LL or LR body at the shed end of the circuit, along with a 1.25" threaded or clamp-type weatherhead, 4AWG Al XHHW-2 for the in-mast wires, some Burndy AGSKIT2 or equivalent dual-rated Al9Cu aboveground splices for the hots and neutral, a clamp-type wireholder for anchoring the quadruplex cable's integral messenger to the mast mechanically, and an Ilsco GTA-2-2 and Ilsco AGC-1 or equivalent dual-rated tap connector and pipe clamp to allow a 4AWG Al jumper to be used to bond the messenger to the mast. Don't forget to form a *drip loop* in the conductors extending out of the weatherhead before splicing them to the overhead wires!
At the house, you can either use a similar mast and weatherhead, or SER cable formed into a *gooseneck* along with a beefy eyebolt (remember that loaded tension from before, as well as the angle the drop is making) to secure the messenger to a stud. Either way, you'll need the same parts for splicing the mast or SER wires to the overhead wires as you used at the shed, and you'll also want to remember the drip loop here, too.
As to ampacity, we're in luck: the 4AWG Al mast wires are the limiting factor here, permitting 65A at 75°C. This is because we can run the overhead quadruplex at its 69A 90°C rating thanks to the 110.14(C)(2) separately installed pressure connector provisions applying to this sort of run. A 60A or 70A breaker can be used for this feeder if you're putting a panel and grounding electrodes in at the shed; if you wish to dispense with said panel, you're limited to a 20A, 2-pole breaker so that you can treat this as a (fat) multi-wire branch circuit instead.
And wiring up the shed...
-------------------------
You have two options as to how to wire the shed; either you can put a simple non-fused pullout (air conditioner) disconnect in and treat the circuit to the shed as a branch circuit, or you can put a panel and grounding electrodes in at the shed and thus have a full *feeder* running to the shed. The disconnect is somewhat simpler and cheaper than the panel, but severely constrains how much power you can provide at the shed compared to the panel approach, as mentioned above. You'll also need to provide a 3-port, 14-4, dual-rated insulated mechanical connector for the neutral connections at the disconnect if you go that route since an A/C disconnect only provides a single, bonded block. From there, you'll have two 20A, 120V branch circuits; one for the lights and receptacles, the other for a 120V heat pump.
If you do decide to go with a panel...
--------------------------------------
If you go with a panel, you'll want to go big here; in fact, a 24- or 30-space, 100 or 125A, NEMA 3R (outdoor rated) main breaker panel is not at all out of place in this application, as the main breaker simply provides the outbuilding's disconnecting means. You'll need to fit a separate grounding bar of the appropriate type for your new panel and land the incoming grounding wires on that atop pulling the bonding screw from the neutral, of course, since this is a 4-wire feeder.
Speaking of grounding, that panel means that you'll need to take some 6AWG *copper* and run it from the grounding bar, out the bottom of the panel, to a pair of 8' ground rods driven 8' or so apart. This provides a grounding electrode system for your shed so that wayward natural electricity (such as lightning-induced transients) can get returned to Mother Nature, while the feeder equipment grounding conductor returns errant utility electricity back to the utility via the neutral-ground bond in your main panel.
Note also that if you go with the outdoor panel route described above, you can simply use a 1.25" *bolt-on hub* atop the breaker panel instead of using the LL or LR body, reducer, nipple, and locknuts to bring the mast into panel from the side. |
87,634 | Is it natural to say
>
> The pop-up message here does not only carry sufficient information but also is confusing
>
>
>
when I have these two facts:
1. The pop-up message doesn't carry sufficient information
2. What's worse, it is rather confusing
Also, should I insert "rather" somewhere in my sentence? | 2016/04/17 | [
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/questions/87634",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/users/24455/"
] | Your current structure does not convey the facts you mention. In its current state, it is saying that carrying sufficient information is not the only thing it does, when it should say that it *doesn't* carry sufficient information (or carries insufficient information). The wording I would choose is:
>
> Not only does this pop-up message carry insufficient information, but it is also confusing.
>
>
> | It is possible to combine these two complete ideas in one sentence using not only.. but also..
>
> The pop-up message not only carries insufficient information but, worse, it is also rather confusing.
>
>
>
The [not only.. but also..](http://dictionary.cambridge.org/grammar/british-grammar/not-only-but-also) construction is challenging to use and contributes no more to the meaning than the much simpler **furthermore**. As you want to emphasise the second point, it might be better to omit it:
>
> The pop-up message carries insufficient information and, worse, it is rather confusing.
>
>
> |
87,634 | Is it natural to say
>
> The pop-up message here does not only carry sufficient information but also is confusing
>
>
>
when I have these two facts:
1. The pop-up message doesn't carry sufficient information
2. What's worse, it is rather confusing
Also, should I insert "rather" somewhere in my sentence? | 2016/04/17 | [
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/questions/87634",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/users/24455/"
] | Your current structure does not convey the facts you mention. In its current state, it is saying that carrying sufficient information is not the only thing it does, when it should say that it *doesn't* carry sufficient information (or carries insufficient information). The wording I would choose is:
>
> Not only does this pop-up message carry insufficient information, but it is also confusing.
>
>
> | I would do it this way, using **not only...as well**:
>
> *Not only* does the popup carry *in*sufficient information, it is
> confusing *as well*.
>
>
>
P.S. I see the OP uses inversion, but for other passersby, note the inversion: "Not only *does* the popup..." |
87,634 | Is it natural to say
>
> The pop-up message here does not only carry sufficient information but also is confusing
>
>
>
when I have these two facts:
1. The pop-up message doesn't carry sufficient information
2. What's worse, it is rather confusing
Also, should I insert "rather" somewhere in my sentence? | 2016/04/17 | [
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/questions/87634",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/users/24455/"
] | Your current structure does not convey the facts you mention. In its current state, it is saying that carrying sufficient information is not the only thing it does, when it should say that it *doesn't* carry sufficient information (or carries insufficient information). The wording I would choose is:
>
> Not only does this pop-up message carry insufficient information, but it is also confusing.
>
>
> | I would say: "The pop-up message doesn't carry enough information and is quite confusing." |
87,634 | Is it natural to say
>
> The pop-up message here does not only carry sufficient information but also is confusing
>
>
>
when I have these two facts:
1. The pop-up message doesn't carry sufficient information
2. What's worse, it is rather confusing
Also, should I insert "rather" somewhere in my sentence? | 2016/04/17 | [
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/questions/87634",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/users/24455/"
] | Your current structure does not convey the facts you mention. In its current state, it is saying that carrying sufficient information is not the only thing it does, when it should say that it *doesn't* carry sufficient information (or carries insufficient information). The wording I would choose is:
>
> Not only does this pop-up message carry insufficient information, but it is also confusing.
>
>
> | An earlier answer has already said this, but I think it bears repeating:
>
> Your current structure does not convey the facts you mention.
>
>
>
The vital thing to understand here is that the words "not only"
do not negate the words that come after them.
When you say or write, "not only X," you affirm that X is true,
and you imply that there are other things that can be said on the same topic.
"Not only X but also Y" is a special way of saying "X and Y."
This phrasing might be used if X is something good and Y is better,
or if (as in this case) X is something bad and Y is worse.
It can also emphasize both X *and* Y.
Since "not only X but Y" means "X and Y", one way to put together your
facts 1 and 2 is,
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message not carry sufficient information, **but also** it is confusing.
>
>
>
This now has the correct meaning, but its style can be improved.
First, rather than "not ... sufficient", we can use "insufficient":
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message carry insufficient information, **but also** it is confusing.
>
>
>
Because the words "not only" imply that there is more to follow,
the word "also" in "not only ... but also" is redundant:
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message carry insufficient information, **but** it is confusing.
>
>
>
This has the disadvantage that the word "but" often conjoins two things that contrast with each other, whereas here we have one thing that is like the other but more stronger. It would be better to omit the word "but", which
is not needed in this particular sentence:
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message carry insufficient information, it is confusing.
>
>
>
In this sentence, the comma is sufficient to separate the two facts that
you want to state.
The construction "not only ... but" is an idiom that is useful when
the two elements following "not only" require a word to separate them,
usually because they are not complete statements by themselves:
>
> The pop-up message is **not only** uninformative **but** confusing.
>
>
>
---
A note on the possible use of the word "rather" in any of these sentences:
"rather" has several possible meanings. From <http://dictionary.cambridge.org/us/dictionary/english/rather>:
>
> in preference to or as a preference
>
>
> more accurately; more exactly
>
>
> to a noticeable degree; somewhat
>
>
>
The second sense often occurs in the construction "not ... but rather".
For example, you might say
>
> The popup is not an informative message but rather a source of confusion.
>
>
>
If you write
>
> The popup is rather confusing,
>
>
>
a listener will likely take "rather" in its third sense;
the sentence is understood to mean that the popup is somewhat confusing.
This meaning is likely to be conveyed even if the word "rather"
appears within a sentence where two things are being compared or contrasted. |
87,634 | Is it natural to say
>
> The pop-up message here does not only carry sufficient information but also is confusing
>
>
>
when I have these two facts:
1. The pop-up message doesn't carry sufficient information
2. What's worse, it is rather confusing
Also, should I insert "rather" somewhere in my sentence? | 2016/04/17 | [
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/questions/87634",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/users/24455/"
] | I would do it this way, using **not only...as well**:
>
> *Not only* does the popup carry *in*sufficient information, it is
> confusing *as well*.
>
>
>
P.S. I see the OP uses inversion, but for other passersby, note the inversion: "Not only *does* the popup..." | It is possible to combine these two complete ideas in one sentence using not only.. but also..
>
> The pop-up message not only carries insufficient information but, worse, it is also rather confusing.
>
>
>
The [not only.. but also..](http://dictionary.cambridge.org/grammar/british-grammar/not-only-but-also) construction is challenging to use and contributes no more to the meaning than the much simpler **furthermore**. As you want to emphasise the second point, it might be better to omit it:
>
> The pop-up message carries insufficient information and, worse, it is rather confusing.
>
>
> |
87,634 | Is it natural to say
>
> The pop-up message here does not only carry sufficient information but also is confusing
>
>
>
when I have these two facts:
1. The pop-up message doesn't carry sufficient information
2. What's worse, it is rather confusing
Also, should I insert "rather" somewhere in my sentence? | 2016/04/17 | [
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/questions/87634",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/users/24455/"
] | An earlier answer has already said this, but I think it bears repeating:
>
> Your current structure does not convey the facts you mention.
>
>
>
The vital thing to understand here is that the words "not only"
do not negate the words that come after them.
When you say or write, "not only X," you affirm that X is true,
and you imply that there are other things that can be said on the same topic.
"Not only X but also Y" is a special way of saying "X and Y."
This phrasing might be used if X is something good and Y is better,
or if (as in this case) X is something bad and Y is worse.
It can also emphasize both X *and* Y.
Since "not only X but Y" means "X and Y", one way to put together your
facts 1 and 2 is,
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message not carry sufficient information, **but also** it is confusing.
>
>
>
This now has the correct meaning, but its style can be improved.
First, rather than "not ... sufficient", we can use "insufficient":
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message carry insufficient information, **but also** it is confusing.
>
>
>
Because the words "not only" imply that there is more to follow,
the word "also" in "not only ... but also" is redundant:
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message carry insufficient information, **but** it is confusing.
>
>
>
This has the disadvantage that the word "but" often conjoins two things that contrast with each other, whereas here we have one thing that is like the other but more stronger. It would be better to omit the word "but", which
is not needed in this particular sentence:
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message carry insufficient information, it is confusing.
>
>
>
In this sentence, the comma is sufficient to separate the two facts that
you want to state.
The construction "not only ... but" is an idiom that is useful when
the two elements following "not only" require a word to separate them,
usually because they are not complete statements by themselves:
>
> The pop-up message is **not only** uninformative **but** confusing.
>
>
>
---
A note on the possible use of the word "rather" in any of these sentences:
"rather" has several possible meanings. From <http://dictionary.cambridge.org/us/dictionary/english/rather>:
>
> in preference to or as a preference
>
>
> more accurately; more exactly
>
>
> to a noticeable degree; somewhat
>
>
>
The second sense often occurs in the construction "not ... but rather".
For example, you might say
>
> The popup is not an informative message but rather a source of confusion.
>
>
>
If you write
>
> The popup is rather confusing,
>
>
>
a listener will likely take "rather" in its third sense;
the sentence is understood to mean that the popup is somewhat confusing.
This meaning is likely to be conveyed even if the word "rather"
appears within a sentence where two things are being compared or contrasted. | It is possible to combine these two complete ideas in one sentence using not only.. but also..
>
> The pop-up message not only carries insufficient information but, worse, it is also rather confusing.
>
>
>
The [not only.. but also..](http://dictionary.cambridge.org/grammar/british-grammar/not-only-but-also) construction is challenging to use and contributes no more to the meaning than the much simpler **furthermore**. As you want to emphasise the second point, it might be better to omit it:
>
> The pop-up message carries insufficient information and, worse, it is rather confusing.
>
>
> |
87,634 | Is it natural to say
>
> The pop-up message here does not only carry sufficient information but also is confusing
>
>
>
when I have these two facts:
1. The pop-up message doesn't carry sufficient information
2. What's worse, it is rather confusing
Also, should I insert "rather" somewhere in my sentence? | 2016/04/17 | [
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/questions/87634",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/users/24455/"
] | I would do it this way, using **not only...as well**:
>
> *Not only* does the popup carry *in*sufficient information, it is
> confusing *as well*.
>
>
>
P.S. I see the OP uses inversion, but for other passersby, note the inversion: "Not only *does* the popup..." | I would say: "The pop-up message doesn't carry enough information and is quite confusing." |
87,634 | Is it natural to say
>
> The pop-up message here does not only carry sufficient information but also is confusing
>
>
>
when I have these two facts:
1. The pop-up message doesn't carry sufficient information
2. What's worse, it is rather confusing
Also, should I insert "rather" somewhere in my sentence? | 2016/04/17 | [
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/questions/87634",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com",
"https://ell.stackexchange.com/users/24455/"
] | An earlier answer has already said this, but I think it bears repeating:
>
> Your current structure does not convey the facts you mention.
>
>
>
The vital thing to understand here is that the words "not only"
do not negate the words that come after them.
When you say or write, "not only X," you affirm that X is true,
and you imply that there are other things that can be said on the same topic.
"Not only X but also Y" is a special way of saying "X and Y."
This phrasing might be used if X is something good and Y is better,
or if (as in this case) X is something bad and Y is worse.
It can also emphasize both X *and* Y.
Since "not only X but Y" means "X and Y", one way to put together your
facts 1 and 2 is,
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message not carry sufficient information, **but also** it is confusing.
>
>
>
This now has the correct meaning, but its style can be improved.
First, rather than "not ... sufficient", we can use "insufficient":
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message carry insufficient information, **but also** it is confusing.
>
>
>
Because the words "not only" imply that there is more to follow,
the word "also" in "not only ... but also" is redundant:
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message carry insufficient information, **but** it is confusing.
>
>
>
This has the disadvantage that the word "but" often conjoins two things that contrast with each other, whereas here we have one thing that is like the other but more stronger. It would be better to omit the word "but", which
is not needed in this particular sentence:
>
> **Not only** does the pop-up message carry insufficient information, it is confusing.
>
>
>
In this sentence, the comma is sufficient to separate the two facts that
you want to state.
The construction "not only ... but" is an idiom that is useful when
the two elements following "not only" require a word to separate them,
usually because they are not complete statements by themselves:
>
> The pop-up message is **not only** uninformative **but** confusing.
>
>
>
---
A note on the possible use of the word "rather" in any of these sentences:
"rather" has several possible meanings. From <http://dictionary.cambridge.org/us/dictionary/english/rather>:
>
> in preference to or as a preference
>
>
> more accurately; more exactly
>
>
> to a noticeable degree; somewhat
>
>
>
The second sense often occurs in the construction "not ... but rather".
For example, you might say
>
> The popup is not an informative message but rather a source of confusion.
>
>
>
If you write
>
> The popup is rather confusing,
>
>
>
a listener will likely take "rather" in its third sense;
the sentence is understood to mean that the popup is somewhat confusing.
This meaning is likely to be conveyed even if the word "rather"
appears within a sentence where two things are being compared or contrasted. | I would say: "The pop-up message doesn't carry enough information and is quite confusing." |
39,546 | I'm curious if there is a formal name for the standard 7-die set (d4, d6, d8, d10, d10\*10, d12, d20), and is there any backstory or history associated with it? | 2014/06/05 | [
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/39546",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/12485/"
] | History
=======
The reason for the set mix as it exists is that, originally, the dice available were a set of platonic solids, sold by an educational company and repurposed by TSR. Namely, a tetrahedron (d4), cube (square hexahedron, d6), equilateral octohedron (d8), dodecahedron (d12), icosahedron (d20). This was a "platonic solids" set.
D20's were routinely read as d10's in wargaming, and used for generating percentiles, which made use of the d20 as a d10 or pair as a d100 a standard practice, going back as early as 1972.
A 1938 dodecahedron with 2 rounded faces opposite each other was available in 1938 for stock simulations. ➀ It wasn't used by TSR, but shows the probable origins of the pentagonal dipyramid we now think of as the d10.
Names
=====
As to names - the earliest modern set (with trapezohedron d10) I can readily find documented by name is the "Dragon Dice" set from 1981 (as evidenced on the packaging copyright notice), as photographed at [Dice Collector](http://www.dicecollector.com/THE_DICE_THEME_TSR.html). ➁
I can, however, cite TSR "catalogue" from a ©1979 TSR product - Swords & Spells lists the older set as "Multi-Sided Dice Set" in the catalogue extract on the back flyleaf. ➂ It reads:
>
> **Multi-Sided Dice Sets** — Each set contains one 20-, 12-, 8-, 6-, and 4-sided die
>
>
>
The same title and text was used in the 1975 product list in Strategic Review Vol 1. Issue 3 (1975). ➃
So:
*Multi-Sided Dice Set* - the original d20 d12 d8 d6 d4 platonic set.
*Dragon Dice* - the "mud dice" set with d10's.
---
[➀ Dice Collector - Mason & Co Stock Exchange Dice - www.dicecollector.com/MINT39\_MASON\_&\_CO\_STOCK\_EXCHANGE\_DICE.jpg](http://www.dicecollector.com/MINT39_MASON_&_CO_STOCK_EXCHANGE_DICE.jpg)
[➁ Dice Collector - TSR - www.dicecollector.com/THE\_DICE\_THEME\_TSR.html](http://www.dicecollector.com/THE_DICE_THEME_TSR.html)
➂ Gygax, [E.] Gary, *Swords & Spells*, 6th printing, Tactical Studies Rules, 1979. Original copyright 1976.
➃ Tactical Studies Rules, *Strategic Review*, Vol. 1, No. 3, Autumn 1975, Ed. [E.] Gary Gygax. TSR advert on page 8. From the Dragon Archive CD. | For what it is worth - the Blue covered "Basic D&D" Box in 1978 (mine was a fourth printing containing B1 - In Search of the Unknown) contained the following dice:
1d4 - Yellow
1d6 - Orange
1d8 - Green
1d12 - Blue
1d20 - White
1d20 - Pinkish Red
The d20s were both numbered with 2 sets of 1-0 numbers and you had to color one set into to make them work as D20's.
But it also allowed you to use the two dice to make percentile rolls.
Sets that do not contain two d20's are probably either incomplete or may have been produced in 1979 during the beginning or ending of the dice shortage that led to the use of paper chits and provision of an ordering coupon.
None of the sets currently (December 19, 2018) available for sale on ebay contain both.
They are commonly called Mud Dice due to the soft plastic used in their construction. |
39,546 | I'm curious if there is a formal name for the standard 7-die set (d4, d6, d8, d10, d10\*10, d12, d20), and is there any backstory or history associated with it? | 2014/06/05 | [
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/39546",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/12485/"
] | History
=======
The reason for the set mix as it exists is that, originally, the dice available were a set of platonic solids, sold by an educational company and repurposed by TSR. Namely, a tetrahedron (d4), cube (square hexahedron, d6), equilateral octohedron (d8), dodecahedron (d12), icosahedron (d20). This was a "platonic solids" set.
D20's were routinely read as d10's in wargaming, and used for generating percentiles, which made use of the d20 as a d10 or pair as a d100 a standard practice, going back as early as 1972.
A 1938 dodecahedron with 2 rounded faces opposite each other was available in 1938 for stock simulations. ➀ It wasn't used by TSR, but shows the probable origins of the pentagonal dipyramid we now think of as the d10.
Names
=====
As to names - the earliest modern set (with trapezohedron d10) I can readily find documented by name is the "Dragon Dice" set from 1981 (as evidenced on the packaging copyright notice), as photographed at [Dice Collector](http://www.dicecollector.com/THE_DICE_THEME_TSR.html). ➁
I can, however, cite TSR "catalogue" from a ©1979 TSR product - Swords & Spells lists the older set as "Multi-Sided Dice Set" in the catalogue extract on the back flyleaf. ➂ It reads:
>
> **Multi-Sided Dice Sets** — Each set contains one 20-, 12-, 8-, 6-, and 4-sided die
>
>
>
The same title and text was used in the 1975 product list in Strategic Review Vol 1. Issue 3 (1975). ➃
So:
*Multi-Sided Dice Set* - the original d20 d12 d8 d6 d4 platonic set.
*Dragon Dice* - the "mud dice" set with d10's.
---
[➀ Dice Collector - Mason & Co Stock Exchange Dice - www.dicecollector.com/MINT39\_MASON\_&\_CO\_STOCK\_EXCHANGE\_DICE.jpg](http://www.dicecollector.com/MINT39_MASON_&_CO_STOCK_EXCHANGE_DICE.jpg)
[➁ Dice Collector - TSR - www.dicecollector.com/THE\_DICE\_THEME\_TSR.html](http://www.dicecollector.com/THE_DICE_THEME_TSR.html)
➂ Gygax, [E.] Gary, *Swords & Spells*, 6th printing, Tactical Studies Rules, 1979. Original copyright 1976.
➃ Tactical Studies Rules, *Strategic Review*, Vol. 1, No. 3, Autumn 1975, Ed. [E.] Gary Gygax. TSR advert on page 8. From the Dragon Archive CD. | The common name I always knew them by is "Dragon Dice" but I think that may have been a reference to an old TSR game rather than the dice themselves. |
39,546 | I'm curious if there is a formal name for the standard 7-die set (d4, d6, d8, d10, d10\*10, d12, d20), and is there any backstory or history associated with it? | 2014/06/05 | [
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/39546",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/12485/"
] | The manufacturers (Chessex, Gamescience, etc.) just refer to them as 7 die sets. | The common name I always knew them by is "Dragon Dice" but I think that may have been a reference to an old TSR game rather than the dice themselves. |
39,546 | I'm curious if there is a formal name for the standard 7-die set (d4, d6, d8, d10, d10\*10, d12, d20), and is there any backstory or history associated with it? | 2014/06/05 | [
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/39546",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/12485/"
] | A term I have read, heard, and used in conversation (which to my mind indicates a fairly broad understanding in the community) is just, "**seven-set**."
As in, "Joe got a cool new seven-set with steampunk gears." | The common name I always knew them by is "Dragon Dice" but I think that may have been a reference to an old TSR game rather than the dice themselves. |
39,546 | I'm curious if there is a formal name for the standard 7-die set (d4, d6, d8, d10, d10\*10, d12, d20), and is there any backstory or history associated with it? | 2014/06/05 | [
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/39546",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/12485/"
] | The manufacturers (Chessex, Gamescience, etc.) just refer to them as 7 die sets. | For what it is worth - the Blue covered "Basic D&D" Box in 1978 (mine was a fourth printing containing B1 - In Search of the Unknown) contained the following dice:
1d4 - Yellow
1d6 - Orange
1d8 - Green
1d12 - Blue
1d20 - White
1d20 - Pinkish Red
The d20s were both numbered with 2 sets of 1-0 numbers and you had to color one set into to make them work as D20's.
But it also allowed you to use the two dice to make percentile rolls.
Sets that do not contain two d20's are probably either incomplete or may have been produced in 1979 during the beginning or ending of the dice shortage that led to the use of paper chits and provision of an ordering coupon.
None of the sets currently (December 19, 2018) available for sale on ebay contain both.
They are commonly called Mud Dice due to the soft plastic used in their construction. |
39,546 | I'm curious if there is a formal name for the standard 7-die set (d4, d6, d8, d10, d10\*10, d12, d20), and is there any backstory or history associated with it? | 2014/06/05 | [
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/39546",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/12485/"
] | There is no name for the full set other than "a set of polyhedral dice."
If I need to distinguish it from another set of polyhedral dice:
I would say a Set of polyhedral dice suitable for playing DnD,
as compared to a Set of dice for playing L5R (10d10)
or a Set of dice suitable for playing Dilettante (10 d8s and 10 d4s)
### History
The d4, d6, d8, d12, and d20 are the [Platonic Solids](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Platonic_solid). They are the only polyhedrons that have all sides the same shape and area, and have the same number of faces meeting at each corner. Platonic solids are ideal dice.
The d10 and the d% are not Platonic Solids. While the most common diamond d10 shape ([pentagonal trapezohedron](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentagonal_trapezohedron)) does have faces the same size and shape, it does not have same number of faces meeting at each corner. (The top and bottom points have 5 faces meeting; the other corners have 3 faces meeting.)
d10s, while not being Platonic Solids, are super useful because of modern humanity's decimal thought process. (Base 10 number system, 10 fingers-plus-thumbs.)
The two d10s for a d% is great because people are used to thinking of percentage probabilities, so can judge things well.
To get to the d10 diamond shape we know today actually took quite a lot of development.
I have an old d10 that looks more like a d12 but with some faces rounded off.
Original D&D had no 10 sided die, and instead had a d20 number 0–9 twice.
The modern [pentagonal trapezohedron](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentagonal_trapezohedron) (diamond like profile) shape was developed in 1980 according to [this history](http://www.awesomedice.com/blog/253/history-of-dice-2/).
Its benefit over the double numbered icosahedron (d20 shape) is that is is easy to tell apart from the normal 20.
Calling them a full set of dice can be misleading, you can get a actual d100 (looks like a golf ball), as well as d16s and d32s that look like d10s .
And a huge variety of other weird ones.
Wizards of the Coast published an [article on the history of the dice](http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/alumni/20070302a).
They offer no name for the set that was included in early DnD (and later), other than referring to them as "a full set of polyhedral dice." | A term I have read, heard, and used in conversation (which to my mind indicates a fairly broad understanding in the community) is just, "**seven-set**."
As in, "Joe got a cool new seven-set with steampunk gears." |
39,546 | I'm curious if there is a formal name for the standard 7-die set (d4, d6, d8, d10, d10\*10, d12, d20), and is there any backstory or history associated with it? | 2014/06/05 | [
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/39546",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/12485/"
] | The D4, D6, D8, D12 and D20 collectively are known as the [Platonic Solids](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Platonic_solid), however there is no commonly accepted name for a set of these dice plus the two percentile D10s other than a "Dice Set" or "Polyhedral Dice". See [this Wikipedia entry](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dice) for more information. | The common name I always knew them by is "Dragon Dice" but I think that may have been a reference to an old TSR game rather than the dice themselves. |
39,546 | I'm curious if there is a formal name for the standard 7-die set (d4, d6, d8, d10, d10\*10, d12, d20), and is there any backstory or history associated with it? | 2014/06/05 | [
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/39546",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/12485/"
] | History
=======
The reason for the set mix as it exists is that, originally, the dice available were a set of platonic solids, sold by an educational company and repurposed by TSR. Namely, a tetrahedron (d4), cube (square hexahedron, d6), equilateral octohedron (d8), dodecahedron (d12), icosahedron (d20). This was a "platonic solids" set.
D20's were routinely read as d10's in wargaming, and used for generating percentiles, which made use of the d20 as a d10 or pair as a d100 a standard practice, going back as early as 1972.
A 1938 dodecahedron with 2 rounded faces opposite each other was available in 1938 for stock simulations. ➀ It wasn't used by TSR, but shows the probable origins of the pentagonal dipyramid we now think of as the d10.
Names
=====
As to names - the earliest modern set (with trapezohedron d10) I can readily find documented by name is the "Dragon Dice" set from 1981 (as evidenced on the packaging copyright notice), as photographed at [Dice Collector](http://www.dicecollector.com/THE_DICE_THEME_TSR.html). ➁
I can, however, cite TSR "catalogue" from a ©1979 TSR product - Swords & Spells lists the older set as "Multi-Sided Dice Set" in the catalogue extract on the back flyleaf. ➂ It reads:
>
> **Multi-Sided Dice Sets** — Each set contains one 20-, 12-, 8-, 6-, and 4-sided die
>
>
>
The same title and text was used in the 1975 product list in Strategic Review Vol 1. Issue 3 (1975). ➃
So:
*Multi-Sided Dice Set* - the original d20 d12 d8 d6 d4 platonic set.
*Dragon Dice* - the "mud dice" set with d10's.
---
[➀ Dice Collector - Mason & Co Stock Exchange Dice - www.dicecollector.com/MINT39\_MASON\_&\_CO\_STOCK\_EXCHANGE\_DICE.jpg](http://www.dicecollector.com/MINT39_MASON_&_CO_STOCK_EXCHANGE_DICE.jpg)
[➁ Dice Collector - TSR - www.dicecollector.com/THE\_DICE\_THEME\_TSR.html](http://www.dicecollector.com/THE_DICE_THEME_TSR.html)
➂ Gygax, [E.] Gary, *Swords & Spells*, 6th printing, Tactical Studies Rules, 1979. Original copyright 1976.
➃ Tactical Studies Rules, *Strategic Review*, Vol. 1, No. 3, Autumn 1975, Ed. [E.] Gary Gygax. TSR advert on page 8. From the Dragon Archive CD. | A term I have read, heard, and used in conversation (which to my mind indicates a fairly broad understanding in the community) is just, "**seven-set**."
As in, "Joe got a cool new seven-set with steampunk gears." |
39,546 | I'm curious if there is a formal name for the standard 7-die set (d4, d6, d8, d10, d10\*10, d12, d20), and is there any backstory or history associated with it? | 2014/06/05 | [
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/39546",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/12485/"
] | A term I have read, heard, and used in conversation (which to my mind indicates a fairly broad understanding in the community) is just, "**seven-set**."
As in, "Joe got a cool new seven-set with steampunk gears." | For what it is worth - the Blue covered "Basic D&D" Box in 1978 (mine was a fourth printing containing B1 - In Search of the Unknown) contained the following dice:
1d4 - Yellow
1d6 - Orange
1d8 - Green
1d12 - Blue
1d20 - White
1d20 - Pinkish Red
The d20s were both numbered with 2 sets of 1-0 numbers and you had to color one set into to make them work as D20's.
But it also allowed you to use the two dice to make percentile rolls.
Sets that do not contain two d20's are probably either incomplete or may have been produced in 1979 during the beginning or ending of the dice shortage that led to the use of paper chits and provision of an ordering coupon.
None of the sets currently (December 19, 2018) available for sale on ebay contain both.
They are commonly called Mud Dice due to the soft plastic used in their construction. |
39,546 | I'm curious if there is a formal name for the standard 7-die set (d4, d6, d8, d10, d10\*10, d12, d20), and is there any backstory or history associated with it? | 2014/06/05 | [
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/39546",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com",
"https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/12485/"
] | There is no name for the full set other than "a set of polyhedral dice."
If I need to distinguish it from another set of polyhedral dice:
I would say a Set of polyhedral dice suitable for playing DnD,
as compared to a Set of dice for playing L5R (10d10)
or a Set of dice suitable for playing Dilettante (10 d8s and 10 d4s)
### History
The d4, d6, d8, d12, and d20 are the [Platonic Solids](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Platonic_solid). They are the only polyhedrons that have all sides the same shape and area, and have the same number of faces meeting at each corner. Platonic solids are ideal dice.
The d10 and the d% are not Platonic Solids. While the most common diamond d10 shape ([pentagonal trapezohedron](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentagonal_trapezohedron)) does have faces the same size and shape, it does not have same number of faces meeting at each corner. (The top and bottom points have 5 faces meeting; the other corners have 3 faces meeting.)
d10s, while not being Platonic Solids, are super useful because of modern humanity's decimal thought process. (Base 10 number system, 10 fingers-plus-thumbs.)
The two d10s for a d% is great because people are used to thinking of percentage probabilities, so can judge things well.
To get to the d10 diamond shape we know today actually took quite a lot of development.
I have an old d10 that looks more like a d12 but with some faces rounded off.
Original D&D had no 10 sided die, and instead had a d20 number 0–9 twice.
The modern [pentagonal trapezohedron](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentagonal_trapezohedron) (diamond like profile) shape was developed in 1980 according to [this history](http://www.awesomedice.com/blog/253/history-of-dice-2/).
Its benefit over the double numbered icosahedron (d20 shape) is that is is easy to tell apart from the normal 20.
Calling them a full set of dice can be misleading, you can get a actual d100 (looks like a golf ball), as well as d16s and d32s that look like d10s .
And a huge variety of other weird ones.
Wizards of the Coast published an [article on the history of the dice](http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/alumni/20070302a).
They offer no name for the set that was included in early DnD (and later), other than referring to them as "a full set of polyhedral dice." | The manufacturers (Chessex, Gamescience, etc.) just refer to them as 7 die sets. |
292,875 | I recently demolished my base because it had grown into a knotted mess (and I wanted an excuse to set up a roboport network).
I realized post-demolition that I have around 100k green and red science packs, and that I only need another 32k of each to finish all the remaining research (I still need ~20k of the blue and purples though).
Is there any use for my remaining ~70k red and green packs? Can I get materials back from them? Are they worth keeping for anything? | 2016/11/29 | [
"https://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/292875",
"https://gaming.stackexchange.com",
"https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/111083/"
] | If you intend to continue playing post 0.15 release, then you can just wait and use them for [Infinite Research](https://www.factorio.com/blog/post/fff-161), but beware of [Research Revolution](https://www.factorio.com/blog/post/fff-159). | Without the use of mods, its not possible to recycle materials of any sort. I found a [Steam forum post](http://steamcommunity.com/app/427520/discussions/0/412448158150520355/) discussing this matter. You can destroy them by placing them in a chest and then destroying the chest, but that's not really a "use."
I also found a [Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/factorio/comments/27r5me/recyclingdisposal/) post that discusses the same topic.
There aren't any other uses for science packs besides using them for research. |
54,309 | On July 1st, the UK Foreign Secretary, Dominic Raab, & Home Secretary, Priti Patel, [announced](https://www.gov.uk/government/news/uk-to-extend-residence-rights-for-british-nationals-overseas-citizens-in-hong-kong) that a 'path to full British citizenship' would be opened to Hong Kong British National (Overseas) passport holders, which could affect over three million people, according to the [Evening Standard](https://www.standard.co.uk/news/uk/hong-kong-boris-johnson-pmqs-citizenship-uk-china-law-a4485601.html).
>
> Following the announcement by the Chinese Government that it will
> impose a national security law on Hong Kong, the UK has confirmed that
> new arrangements will be put in place for British Nationals
> (Overseas).
>
>
> The UK Government made a commitment to change the rules for BN(O)s
> should China implement the new national security law first proposed in
> early June.
>
>
> This new bespoke immigration route will allow BN(O)s to come to the UK
> without the current 6 month limit, granting them five years limited
> leave to remain, with the ability to live and work in the UK.
>
>
> After these five years, they will be able to apply for settled status
> and, after a further 12 months with that status, apply for
> citizenship.
>
>
> The new bespoke route for BN(O)s will be implemented in the coming
> months, with exact date and further details to be announced in due
> course. In the meantime, we will ensure British National (Overseas)
> citizens who wish to come to the UK will be able to do so, subject to
> standard immigration checks.
>
>
>
This follows an article [published](https://www.scmp.com/comment/opinion/article/3087252/hongkongers-fearing-their-way-life-britain-will-provide-alternative) on June 3rd by Boris Johnson in the South China Morning Post which warned of this decision:
>
> If China imposes its national security law, the British government
> will change our immigration rules and allow any holder of these
> passports from Hong Kong to come to the UK for a renewable period of
> 12 months and be given further immigration rights, including the right
> to work, which could place them on a route to citizenship.
>
>
>
Immigration was a big issue in the debate surrounding the Brexit referendum in 2016, as well as the subsequent two General Elections. I'm interested in what the view of Brexit supporters is on this decision. I would have expected Brexit supporters to not support this measure, however, anecdotally, I've been surprised at the support for this proposal among those I know personally.
**Have any polls been conducted surveying the support for this proposal or decision that splits out responses by 2016 Brexit referendum vote?** I'm aware that there are unlikely to be polls on the actual decision this soon after the announcement, but seeing as the issue has been talked about for about a month, I hope that some research has taken place. | 2020/07/01 | [
"https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/54309",
"https://politics.stackexchange.com",
"https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/28994/"
] | [A YouGov poll](https://yougov.co.uk/topics/politics/articles-reports/2020/07/01/support-helping-british-passport-holders-hong-kong) just published today shows **significant support across the political spectrum**:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ff5aT.png)
[The full results](https://docs.cdn.yougov.com/a6k7ee72ha/YouGov%20-%20Hong%20Kong%20Results.pdf) show that **the level of support among Leavers (62%) is nearly as high as that among Stayers (70%)**.
If that seems surprising it may be relevant that [a study published last year](https://cwp.sipa.columbia.edu/news/brexit-identities-and-british-public-opinion-china-cwp-alums-enze-han-xiaojun-li) found the following:
>
> **Those who subscribe strongly to the Leave identity**, measured by their aversion to the EU and antipathy towards immigration, **are also more likely to hold negative perceptions of Chinese global leadership and be more suspicious of China as a military threat.**
>
>
> | In addition to Brian Z's answer, I found an [older and less detailed poll](https://yougov.co.uk/topics/travel/survey-results/daily/2020/05/29/9742c/3), again run by YouGov, conducted on May 29th:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zeiEt.png)
This shows a rather large difference between the levels of support shown by Remainers & Leavers, but also a substantial amount of 'Don't know' responses compared to the survey in Brian's answer, suggesting opinions have changed somewhat over the last month as more information has become available, and perhaps, the situation in China & Hong Kong has developed. |
54,309 | On July 1st, the UK Foreign Secretary, Dominic Raab, & Home Secretary, Priti Patel, [announced](https://www.gov.uk/government/news/uk-to-extend-residence-rights-for-british-nationals-overseas-citizens-in-hong-kong) that a 'path to full British citizenship' would be opened to Hong Kong British National (Overseas) passport holders, which could affect over three million people, according to the [Evening Standard](https://www.standard.co.uk/news/uk/hong-kong-boris-johnson-pmqs-citizenship-uk-china-law-a4485601.html).
>
> Following the announcement by the Chinese Government that it will
> impose a national security law on Hong Kong, the UK has confirmed that
> new arrangements will be put in place for British Nationals
> (Overseas).
>
>
> The UK Government made a commitment to change the rules for BN(O)s
> should China implement the new national security law first proposed in
> early June.
>
>
> This new bespoke immigration route will allow BN(O)s to come to the UK
> without the current 6 month limit, granting them five years limited
> leave to remain, with the ability to live and work in the UK.
>
>
> After these five years, they will be able to apply for settled status
> and, after a further 12 months with that status, apply for
> citizenship.
>
>
> The new bespoke route for BN(O)s will be implemented in the coming
> months, with exact date and further details to be announced in due
> course. In the meantime, we will ensure British National (Overseas)
> citizens who wish to come to the UK will be able to do so, subject to
> standard immigration checks.
>
>
>
This follows an article [published](https://www.scmp.com/comment/opinion/article/3087252/hongkongers-fearing-their-way-life-britain-will-provide-alternative) on June 3rd by Boris Johnson in the South China Morning Post which warned of this decision:
>
> If China imposes its national security law, the British government
> will change our immigration rules and allow any holder of these
> passports from Hong Kong to come to the UK for a renewable period of
> 12 months and be given further immigration rights, including the right
> to work, which could place them on a route to citizenship.
>
>
>
Immigration was a big issue in the debate surrounding the Brexit referendum in 2016, as well as the subsequent two General Elections. I'm interested in what the view of Brexit supporters is on this decision. I would have expected Brexit supporters to not support this measure, however, anecdotally, I've been surprised at the support for this proposal among those I know personally.
**Have any polls been conducted surveying the support for this proposal or decision that splits out responses by 2016 Brexit referendum vote?** I'm aware that there are unlikely to be polls on the actual decision this soon after the announcement, but seeing as the issue has been talked about for about a month, I hope that some research has taken place. | 2020/07/01 | [
"https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/54309",
"https://politics.stackexchange.com",
"https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/28994/"
] | [A YouGov poll](https://yougov.co.uk/topics/politics/articles-reports/2020/07/01/support-helping-british-passport-holders-hong-kong) just published today shows **significant support across the political spectrum**:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ff5aT.png)
[The full results](https://docs.cdn.yougov.com/a6k7ee72ha/YouGov%20-%20Hong%20Kong%20Results.pdf) show that **the level of support among Leavers (62%) is nearly as high as that among Stayers (70%)**.
If that seems surprising it may be relevant that [a study published last year](https://cwp.sipa.columbia.edu/news/brexit-identities-and-british-public-opinion-china-cwp-alums-enze-han-xiaojun-li) found the following:
>
> **Those who subscribe strongly to the Leave identity**, measured by their aversion to the EU and antipathy towards immigration, **are also more likely to hold negative perceptions of Chinese global leadership and be more suspicious of China as a military threat.**
>
>
> | **The Brexit Party is currently (12 July 2020) polling its members to ask about this**
>
> 6. With regard to the 3,000,000 citizens of Hong Kong (British National (Overseas) passport holders and dependants thereof), who have
> been offered rights to come to the UK, do you believe that:
>
>
> a.They should be given total rights to come and live and settle here
>
>
> b.The current arrangements should apply, but citizens of Hong Kong
> should be given preference/fast-tracked
>
>
> c. The existing arrangements should apply, with the same rights as
> commonwealth citizens
>
>
> d. Unsure
>
>
>
I don't know when the results will be in but I'll try to find out. |
54,309 | On July 1st, the UK Foreign Secretary, Dominic Raab, & Home Secretary, Priti Patel, [announced](https://www.gov.uk/government/news/uk-to-extend-residence-rights-for-british-nationals-overseas-citizens-in-hong-kong) that a 'path to full British citizenship' would be opened to Hong Kong British National (Overseas) passport holders, which could affect over three million people, according to the [Evening Standard](https://www.standard.co.uk/news/uk/hong-kong-boris-johnson-pmqs-citizenship-uk-china-law-a4485601.html).
>
> Following the announcement by the Chinese Government that it will
> impose a national security law on Hong Kong, the UK has confirmed that
> new arrangements will be put in place for British Nationals
> (Overseas).
>
>
> The UK Government made a commitment to change the rules for BN(O)s
> should China implement the new national security law first proposed in
> early June.
>
>
> This new bespoke immigration route will allow BN(O)s to come to the UK
> without the current 6 month limit, granting them five years limited
> leave to remain, with the ability to live and work in the UK.
>
>
> After these five years, they will be able to apply for settled status
> and, after a further 12 months with that status, apply for
> citizenship.
>
>
> The new bespoke route for BN(O)s will be implemented in the coming
> months, with exact date and further details to be announced in due
> course. In the meantime, we will ensure British National (Overseas)
> citizens who wish to come to the UK will be able to do so, subject to
> standard immigration checks.
>
>
>
This follows an article [published](https://www.scmp.com/comment/opinion/article/3087252/hongkongers-fearing-their-way-life-britain-will-provide-alternative) on June 3rd by Boris Johnson in the South China Morning Post which warned of this decision:
>
> If China imposes its national security law, the British government
> will change our immigration rules and allow any holder of these
> passports from Hong Kong to come to the UK for a renewable period of
> 12 months and be given further immigration rights, including the right
> to work, which could place them on a route to citizenship.
>
>
>
Immigration was a big issue in the debate surrounding the Brexit referendum in 2016, as well as the subsequent two General Elections. I'm interested in what the view of Brexit supporters is on this decision. I would have expected Brexit supporters to not support this measure, however, anecdotally, I've been surprised at the support for this proposal among those I know personally.
**Have any polls been conducted surveying the support for this proposal or decision that splits out responses by 2016 Brexit referendum vote?** I'm aware that there are unlikely to be polls on the actual decision this soon after the announcement, but seeing as the issue has been talked about for about a month, I hope that some research has taken place. | 2020/07/01 | [
"https://politics.stackexchange.com/questions/54309",
"https://politics.stackexchange.com",
"https://politics.stackexchange.com/users/28994/"
] | In addition to Brian Z's answer, I found an [older and less detailed poll](https://yougov.co.uk/topics/travel/survey-results/daily/2020/05/29/9742c/3), again run by YouGov, conducted on May 29th:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zeiEt.png)
This shows a rather large difference between the levels of support shown by Remainers & Leavers, but also a substantial amount of 'Don't know' responses compared to the survey in Brian's answer, suggesting opinions have changed somewhat over the last month as more information has become available, and perhaps, the situation in China & Hong Kong has developed. | **The Brexit Party is currently (12 July 2020) polling its members to ask about this**
>
> 6. With regard to the 3,000,000 citizens of Hong Kong (British National (Overseas) passport holders and dependants thereof), who have
> been offered rights to come to the UK, do you believe that:
>
>
> a.They should be given total rights to come and live and settle here
>
>
> b.The current arrangements should apply, but citizens of Hong Kong
> should be given preference/fast-tracked
>
>
> c. The existing arrangements should apply, with the same rights as
> commonwealth citizens
>
>
> d. Unsure
>
>
>
I don't know when the results will be in but I'll try to find out. |
628,119 | I2C can reach up 1Mbps with fast mode+ and 3.4Mbps with High Speed mode. I just want to ask if it is possible to use 3.4Mbps mode with longer cable and what is the max. possible cable length. | 2022/07/20 | [
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/628119",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com",
"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/254463/"
] | Doesn't seem to be possible. As Kartman suggested in his comment, you should avoid using I2C for long-distance communications. If it was possible a lot of other communication protocols wouldn't be invented or at least wouldn't be popular today, believe me.
Anyway, generally the pull-up resistor and the cable capacitance plays a huge role at maximum frequency. For on-board FM and FM+ 1k-ish pull-up resistors work fine but you can't use this value if the line capacitance is high. Just as an example, if you use a 30-m-long cable with a capacitance of 5pF / metre then a LPF with a cut-off frequency of ~1 MHz will be formed. This will affect the rise time and pulse shape of the signals. You can decrease the pull-up resistances but this will affect the transceiver's power dissipation and you don't want to exceed the max ratings.
If placing repeaters at every, say, 1 metre seems reasonable/practicle then you can use I2C FM+ at even kilometre-long communications. | No, it is not possible to use a 30m cable for FM+ or higher modes.
FM+ allows for 550pF of bus capacitance and HS mode allows for 100pF for 3.4 MHz and up to 400pF for up to 1.7 MHz.
It is unlikely that you can find a cable with such low capacitance that would allow for anything else than a couple of meters before the total bus capacitance, including PCB, connector and IC pin capacitance hits the limit and requires to slow down the communication speed.
I would estimate based on existing bus implementations such as DDC that 30m would be viable at maybe up to 100 kHz, as even if the standard requires certain rise times and bus capacitance, it allows longer rise times and higher capacitance which allows to slow down the clock. |
694 | What have people found to be the most reliable brands of hard drives and hard drive enclosures, specifically for A/V work? (Note: Specifically looking at reliability of inexpensive 7200rpm drives, preferably FireWire.)
---
I woke up to a dead mirrored RAID disk today... but, that's what mirroring is for. My literal life's work of photography and audio from the remaining RAID disk is being backed up to a second RAID as I type. I'm paranoiacally redundant like that.
Despite the fact that my data seems OK, this plunges me into needing to replace at least one hard disk, possibly the whole RAID. I've been buying [LaCie d2](http://www.lacie.com/us/products/product.htm?pid=11156) drives because they're inexpensive and individually rack-mountable without needing to buy a big, spendy (and overly deep) dedicated rack mount enclosure. I buy in identical pairs and then stripe them as RAIDs.
In a house with eight of these things lying around, the failures are starting to mount (I'd say 50/50 split between power supplies dying and disks themselves dying) and I'm looking to hear about folks' experience with other brands of drives.
[](http://www.lacie.com/us/products/product.htm?pid=11156)
(source: [lacie.com](http://www.lacie.com/imgstore/product_medium/hd_d2quadranext.jpg)) | 2010/04/15 | [
"https://sound.stackexchange.com/questions/694",
"https://sound.stackexchange.com",
"https://sound.stackexchange.com/users/29/"
] | Have you ever tried a [Drobo](http://www.drobo.com/)?
I have one under my desk and use 1 TB Seagates inside it. We have two Drobos here and haven't had anything die ever since we got them, which is well over a year ago.
The beauty of the system is that unlike a RAID you can mix your hard drives within the Drobo. You can use any brand and any size. You start with two drives and then build up to four, or there is a pro version with eight bays. There is built in redundancy, one drive can die without losing any data, all you do is replace the faulty drive and it will "heal" itself.
Hard drive manufacturers really don't expect hard drives to last much longer than the guarantee. If you treat them as disposable you won't be disappointed.
Long term we all need to move to flash drives, which also die, but what normally happens is that the ability to write to cells dies but the ability to read from the damaged cells does not.
I personally have complete hourly hard drive backups at home and work as well as daily flash and cloud backups, and weekly optical backups.
I expect everything to break, and am regularly surprised when things don't.
Check out this podcast from the [AudioNowcast](http://nowcastnetwork.com/NowcastNetwork/nfblog/?p=44) where they talk about data storage at NASA, it also has some really interesting content about audio.
[](http://www.drobo.com/)
(source: [drobo.com](http://www.drobo.com/images/inside/products/Drobo_S_Open_Hi.jpg)) | I'm very happy with my G-Drive.
<http://www.g-technology.com/> |
694 | What have people found to be the most reliable brands of hard drives and hard drive enclosures, specifically for A/V work? (Note: Specifically looking at reliability of inexpensive 7200rpm drives, preferably FireWire.)
---
I woke up to a dead mirrored RAID disk today... but, that's what mirroring is for. My literal life's work of photography and audio from the remaining RAID disk is being backed up to a second RAID as I type. I'm paranoiacally redundant like that.
Despite the fact that my data seems OK, this plunges me into needing to replace at least one hard disk, possibly the whole RAID. I've been buying [LaCie d2](http://www.lacie.com/us/products/product.htm?pid=11156) drives because they're inexpensive and individually rack-mountable without needing to buy a big, spendy (and overly deep) dedicated rack mount enclosure. I buy in identical pairs and then stripe them as RAIDs.
In a house with eight of these things lying around, the failures are starting to mount (I'd say 50/50 split between power supplies dying and disks themselves dying) and I'm looking to hear about folks' experience with other brands of drives.
[](http://www.lacie.com/us/products/product.htm?pid=11156)
(source: [lacie.com](http://www.lacie.com/imgstore/product_medium/hd_d2quadranext.jpg)) | 2010/04/15 | [
"https://sound.stackexchange.com/questions/694",
"https://sound.stackexchange.com",
"https://sound.stackexchange.com/users/29/"
] | None. I've owned Seagate, Western Digital, and Hitachi, and had probably half of each brand fail prematurely. They're all crap, and even the good ones will always fail eventually. Focus on having multiple copies of your data, not on a particular brand.
Warranty time is one way to choose. I think Seagate's is longer. I've sent in both Seagate and WD drives for replacement after they failed young. It's a hassle, but it's better than buying a new drive. | I've also seen the G\_technology failures. If you go into Tekserve in new york, they won't even recommend them anymore. I've have a few OWC enclosures that I put Seagates in, and I am now moving to system where I'll be using do working drives in enclosures and all of my backups, library material will be on bare drives. I've recently discovered <http://www.hudzee.com/> and I'll be backing up with a drive dock. Say goodbye to 8 different power supplies on the floor. |
694 | What have people found to be the most reliable brands of hard drives and hard drive enclosures, specifically for A/V work? (Note: Specifically looking at reliability of inexpensive 7200rpm drives, preferably FireWire.)
---
I woke up to a dead mirrored RAID disk today... but, that's what mirroring is for. My literal life's work of photography and audio from the remaining RAID disk is being backed up to a second RAID as I type. I'm paranoiacally redundant like that.
Despite the fact that my data seems OK, this plunges me into needing to replace at least one hard disk, possibly the whole RAID. I've been buying [LaCie d2](http://www.lacie.com/us/products/product.htm?pid=11156) drives because they're inexpensive and individually rack-mountable without needing to buy a big, spendy (and overly deep) dedicated rack mount enclosure. I buy in identical pairs and then stripe them as RAIDs.
In a house with eight of these things lying around, the failures are starting to mount (I'd say 50/50 split between power supplies dying and disks themselves dying) and I'm looking to hear about folks' experience with other brands of drives.
[](http://www.lacie.com/us/products/product.htm?pid=11156)
(source: [lacie.com](http://www.lacie.com/imgstore/product_medium/hd_d2quadranext.jpg)) | 2010/04/15 | [
"https://sound.stackexchange.com/questions/694",
"https://sound.stackexchange.com",
"https://sound.stackexchange.com/users/29/"
] | I've also seen the G\_technology failures. If you go into Tekserve in new york, they won't even recommend them anymore. I've have a few OWC enclosures that I put Seagates in, and I am now moving to system where I'll be using do working drives in enclosures and all of my backups, library material will be on bare drives. I've recently discovered <http://www.hudzee.com/> and I'll be backing up with a drive dock. Say goodbye to 8 different power supplies on the floor. | Going more into brands.....It looks like Glyph products actually have Seagate drives internally. I think then, that glyph drives are like seagates but made for constant use, like if you were going to use it as a main 2nd drive, for example, for holding all your audio files and session files, or maybe to hold your videos... but if you are only planning to backup once a week or so, I would go for a seagate :). |
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