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Human: Good morning all, I have a 1967 Mercury 950 SS with serial number: 2100114 and it is mounted on a 1965 Lone-star aluminum hull. I am getting some erratic voltage readings from my charging system at the battery and at the engine. I am using digital multi-meters for the testing. First off at the battery my meter reads 12.5 vdc before start up. After start up the meter readings jumps around and then the meter shuts down (It just turns off. I'm assuming this is a safety feature on the meter). I switched to a Kliein Tools meter(MM2000). I hook the meter to the battery in volts DC mode, start the engine and the meter readings start to jump around and then switches to AC mode while still jumping around (not going above 4 volts AC)(I'm also assuming that it has an automatic input feature (AC to DC)). I also get erratic readings while the engine is running and I touch only one lead of my meter (in volts DC) to the chassis of the engine. The other lead of the meter is dangling in the air. At this point I disconnected the stator from the rectifier and restart the engine. I now get 5 volts from each of the yellow leads of the stator to chassis ground and 19 volts AC across the two yellow leads. I still get the erratic reading when I touch one lead of the meter to the chassis. This has lead me to believe that I have AC voltage leaking into the ground of the chassis or a loose connection. I removed the fly wheel and checked continuity from the chassis ground to each of the output wires to find none, so its not grounding to the chassis. I did find where the yellow leads connect to the first two coils on the stator to be a bit corroded and the timing belt to be well dry rotted ( i do not feel the belt had anything to do with my problem, but needs to be replaced). This outboard seems to have the older rectifier(32177A 2) with shorting clipper. I am not sure if this is the right one, I thought it should have the 78614A rectifier. I am looking to replace the stator, if I can find one, along with the rectifier and belt. At the very least I will replace the rectifier and belt and reconnect/clean the corrosion from the two yellow leads and re-insulate the wires. Any help is appreciated with this issue. Also, I know the stators are obsolete, but does anyone know were to get one, or a compatible replacement? Thank you, Chonka Assistant:	I did a little more testing this morning and here are my findings: Rectifier(Bench test): -From input post A (one of the input terminals) to rectifier output: 6.78 M ohm Reverse leads of meter: .671 M ohm -From input post B (the other input terminal) to rectifier output: 3.226 M ohm Reverse leads of meter: .374 M ohm -Between input post A & B: 4.16 M ohm I originally stated, in my first post, that I was not getting continuity from the stator output wire back to my chassis, but when bench testing I was getting some. Here are my findings: Stator (Bench test): -Yellow output 1 to stator mounting screw hole: .521 M ohm -Yellow output 2 to stator mounting screw hole: .511 M ohm -Between the two yellow outputs: .3 ohm One of the problems I am have is my two reference books have conflicting information. I am not sure what to go by. I have included a few pictures of the relevant pages. The Mercury service manual does not even list the right stator for my year. The rectifier seems bad. It should not have continuity in both directions (through the diodes). I checked for grounding in the rest of the wiring and found none. I am still questioning if the stator is good. I will be contacting CDI to see if the stator 174-4793 has the same bolt pattern. I am contemplating replacing both if I cannot determine if the stator is bad or not. Thank you both for the input; I am at ease about the rectifier I just need to figure out the stator now. Thank you, chonka	I did a little more testing this morning and here are my findings: Rectifier(Bench test): -From input post A (one of the input terminals) to rectifier output: 6.78 M ohm Reverse leads of meter: .671 M ohm -From input post B (the other input terminal) to rectifier output: 3.226 M ohm Reverse leads of meter: .374 M ohm -Between input post A & B: 4.16 M ohm I originally stated, in my first post, that I was not getting continuity from the stator output wire back to my chassis, but when bench testing I was getting some. Here are my findings: Stator (Bench test): -Yellow output 1 to stator mounting screw hole: .521 M ohm -Yellow output 2 to stator mounting screw hole: .511 M ohm -Between the two yellow outputs: .3 ohm One of the problems I am have is my two reference books have conflicting information. I am not sure what to go by. I have included a few pictures of the relevant pages. The Mercury service manual does not even list the right stator for my year. The rectifier seems bad. It should not have continuity in both directions (through the diodes). I checked for grounding in the rest of the wiring and found none. I am still questioning if the stator is good. I will be contacting CDI to see if the stator 174-4793 has the same bolt pattern. I am contemplating replacing both if I cannot determine if the stator is bad or not. Thank you both for the input; I am at ease about the rectifier I just need to figure out the stator now. Thank you, chonka	I would repair the transom, strengthen it and skip the aluminum plate. An aluminum plate will make it too rigid and cause fractures.
Human: Good morning all, I have a 1967 Mercury 950 SS with serial number: 2100114 and it is mounted on a 1965 Lone-star aluminum hull. I am getting some erratic voltage readings from my charging system at the battery and at the engine. I am using digital multi-meters for the testing. First off at the battery my meter reads 12.5 vdc before start up. After start up the meter readings jumps around and then the meter shuts down (It just turns off. I'm assuming this is a safety feature on the meter). I switched to a Kliein Tools meter(MM2000). I hook the meter to the battery in volts DC mode, start the engine and the meter readings start to jump around and then switches to AC mode while still jumping around (not going above 4 volts AC)(I'm also assuming that it has an automatic input feature (AC to DC)). I also get erratic readings while the engine is running and I touch only one lead of my meter (in volts DC) to the chassis of the engine. The other lead of the meter is dangling in the air. At this point I disconnected the stator from the rectifier and restart the engine. I now get 5 volts from each of the yellow leads of the stator to chassis ground and 19 volts AC across the two yellow leads. I still get the erratic reading when I touch one lead of the meter to the chassis. This has lead me to believe that I have AC voltage leaking into the ground of the chassis or a loose connection. I removed the fly wheel and checked continuity from the chassis ground to each of the output wires to find none, so its not grounding to the chassis. I did find where the yellow leads connect to the first two coils on the stator to be a bit corroded and the timing belt to be well dry rotted ( i do not feel the belt had anything to do with my problem, but needs to be replaced). This outboard seems to have the older rectifier(32177A 2) with shorting clipper. I am not sure if this is the right one, I thought it should have the 78614A rectifier. I am looking to replace the stator, if I can find one, along with the rectifier and belt. At the very least I will replace the rectifier and belt and reconnect/clean the corrosion from the two yellow leads and re-insulate the wires. Any help is appreciated with this issue. Also, I know the stators are obsolete, but does anyone know were to get one, or a compatible replacement? Thank you, Chonka Assistant:	The forum didn't like my pictures, but I'll keep trying.	The forum didn't like my pictures, but I'll keep trying.	Yikes.... don't say it aint so... Even though there's no flexing or cracking in the transom? I would think it would show some kind of give if it needs to be rebuilt.
Human: Good morning all, I have a 1967 Mercury 950 SS with serial number: 2100114 and it is mounted on a 1965 Lone-star aluminum hull. I am getting some erratic voltage readings from my charging system at the battery and at the engine. I am using digital multi-meters for the testing. First off at the battery my meter reads 12.5 vdc before start up. After start up the meter readings jumps around and then the meter shuts down (It just turns off. I'm assuming this is a safety feature on the meter). I switched to a Kliein Tools meter(MM2000). I hook the meter to the battery in volts DC mode, start the engine and the meter readings start to jump around and then switches to AC mode while still jumping around (not going above 4 volts AC)(I'm also assuming that it has an automatic input feature (AC to DC)). I also get erratic readings while the engine is running and I touch only one lead of my meter (in volts DC) to the chassis of the engine. The other lead of the meter is dangling in the air. At this point I disconnected the stator from the rectifier and restart the engine. I now get 5 volts from each of the yellow leads of the stator to chassis ground and 19 volts AC across the two yellow leads. I still get the erratic reading when I touch one lead of the meter to the chassis. This has lead me to believe that I have AC voltage leaking into the ground of the chassis or a loose connection. I removed the fly wheel and checked continuity from the chassis ground to each of the output wires to find none, so its not grounding to the chassis. I did find where the yellow leads connect to the first two coils on the stator to be a bit corroded and the timing belt to be well dry rotted ( i do not feel the belt had anything to do with my problem, but needs to be replaced). This outboard seems to have the older rectifier(32177A 2) with shorting clipper. I am not sure if this is the right one, I thought it should have the 78614A rectifier. I am looking to replace the stator, if I can find one, along with the rectifier and belt. At the very least I will replace the rectifier and belt and reconnect/clean the corrosion from the two yellow leads and re-insulate the wires. Any help is appreciated with this issue. Also, I know the stators are obsolete, but does anyone know were to get one, or a compatible replacement? Thank you, Chonka Assistant:	I failed to mention what started the whole thing. It was me trying to hook up a new tachometer. I did the research, bought a FARIA THC622A. Put the tach on 12 pole and hooked in to the output side of the rectifier, nothing. Put it on the tach wire of the control box, nothing. that is when I started tracing voltages.	I failed to mention what started the whole thing. It was me trying to hook up a new tachometer. I did the research, bought a FARIA THC622A. Put the tach on 12 pole and hooked in to the output side of the rectifier, nothing. Put it on the tach wire of the control box, nothing. that is when I started tracing voltages.	Is your cav plate in line with the bottom of your keel?
Human: Good morning all, I have a 1967 Mercury 950 SS with serial number: 2100114 and it is mounted on a 1965 Lone-star aluminum hull. I am getting some erratic voltage readings from my charging system at the battery and at the engine. I am using digital multi-meters for the testing. First off at the battery my meter reads 12.5 vdc before start up. After start up the meter readings jumps around and then the meter shuts down (It just turns off. I'm assuming this is a safety feature on the meter). I switched to a Kliein Tools meter(MM2000). I hook the meter to the battery in volts DC mode, start the engine and the meter readings start to jump around and then switches to AC mode while still jumping around (not going above 4 volts AC)(I'm also assuming that it has an automatic input feature (AC to DC)). I also get erratic readings while the engine is running and I touch only one lead of my meter (in volts DC) to the chassis of the engine. The other lead of the meter is dangling in the air. At this point I disconnected the stator from the rectifier and restart the engine. I now get 5 volts from each of the yellow leads of the stator to chassis ground and 19 volts AC across the two yellow leads. I still get the erratic reading when I touch one lead of the meter to the chassis. This has lead me to believe that I have AC voltage leaking into the ground of the chassis or a loose connection. I removed the fly wheel and checked continuity from the chassis ground to each of the output wires to find none, so its not grounding to the chassis. I did find where the yellow leads connect to the first two coils on the stator to be a bit corroded and the timing belt to be well dry rotted ( i do not feel the belt had anything to do with my problem, but needs to be replaced). This outboard seems to have the older rectifier(32177A 2) with shorting clipper. I am not sure if this is the right one, I thought it should have the 78614A rectifier. I am looking to replace the stator, if I can find one, along with the rectifier and belt. At the very least I will replace the rectifier and belt and reconnect/clean the corrosion from the two yellow leads and re-insulate the wires. Any help is appreciated with this issue. Also, I know the stators are obsolete, but does anyone know were to get one, or a compatible replacement? Thank you, Chonka Assistant:	I have not found any markings on the stator, but it is a 12 pole and looks just like the ones in the service manual. It has long leads that are hard wire, not braided. I replaced both internal and external harnesses with CDI harnesses. Both harnesses had a orange and a brown wire that wasn't used. I used the brown for the tach and the orange for a "key on" to the hour meter.	I have not found any markings on the stator, but it is a 12 pole and looks just like the ones in the service manual. It has long leads that are hard wire, not braided. I replaced both internal and external harnesses with CDI harnesses. Both harnesses had a orange and a brown wire that wasn't used. I used the brown for the tach and the orange for a "key on" to the hour meter.	Okay on the Merc Forum. There is a guy on the Honda forum named Jimmy Dixon who is an expert with small Honda outboards. Not sure what he knows about Merc's, but it's worth a try. His e-mail is [email protected]. Tell him CHawk recommended that you contact him.
Human: Good morning all, I have a 1967 Mercury 950 SS with serial number: 2100114 and it is mounted on a 1965 Lone-star aluminum hull. I am getting some erratic voltage readings from my charging system at the battery and at the engine. I am using digital multi-meters for the testing. First off at the battery my meter reads 12.5 vdc before start up. After start up the meter readings jumps around and then the meter shuts down (It just turns off. I'm assuming this is a safety feature on the meter). I switched to a Kliein Tools meter(MM2000). I hook the meter to the battery in volts DC mode, start the engine and the meter readings start to jump around and then switches to AC mode while still jumping around (not going above 4 volts AC)(I'm also assuming that it has an automatic input feature (AC to DC)). I also get erratic readings while the engine is running and I touch only one lead of my meter (in volts DC) to the chassis of the engine. The other lead of the meter is dangling in the air. At this point I disconnected the stator from the rectifier and restart the engine. I now get 5 volts from each of the yellow leads of the stator to chassis ground and 19 volts AC across the two yellow leads. I still get the erratic reading when I touch one lead of the meter to the chassis. This has lead me to believe that I have AC voltage leaking into the ground of the chassis or a loose connection. I removed the fly wheel and checked continuity from the chassis ground to each of the output wires to find none, so its not grounding to the chassis. I did find where the yellow leads connect to the first two coils on the stator to be a bit corroded and the timing belt to be well dry rotted ( i do not feel the belt had anything to do with my problem, but needs to be replaced). This outboard seems to have the older rectifier(32177A 2) with shorting clipper. I am not sure if this is the right one, I thought it should have the 78614A rectifier. I am looking to replace the stator, if I can find one, along with the rectifier and belt. At the very least I will replace the rectifier and belt and reconnect/clean the corrosion from the two yellow leads and re-insulate the wires. Any help is appreciated with this issue. Also, I know the stators are obsolete, but does anyone know were to get one, or a compatible replacement? Thank you, Chonka Assistant:	Ok, I am eating a little crow here. The second reply to my topic was from kimcrwbr1, he suggested I go through every wire. I thought I did. Evidently I did not test the wires well enough in the distributor. the following is what I just posted to another forum: Hello all, I have a 1967 Mercury 950 SS with Serial # 2100114. I have been trying to track down an electrical issue on this outboard and found that the two wires coming from the distributor (points) were bad (Bad as in: internal corrosion, shorting, cracked insulation and very high resistance). I installed a new engine wire harness last year and have checked every other wire that was not replaced. I have tested the stator and it checks out, OK. The outboard originally had the older orange rectifier; I switched it out for the newer diamond shaped one. The old one tested bad and now the new one tests bad. I am assuming it is from my shorted out wires. It must have blown one of the diodes. I already have a new rectifier (new style) and will install it when I replace the wires from the points. Know here is one of my dilemmas. I was combing the internet today and came across a post on another forum and this is one of the replies in the topic: “There were three 950s (and 1100s)... Early 66 ones had the original dual point distributors with side electrode and dual coils. These also had thicker rings. The middle SS models made in 66 had dual point distributors that fired an electronic ignition and the 67 SS models had full electronic ignition. The 66 SS models used the 1/16" rings with small piston pins and the older style rods. The 67 models used the newer larger rods and pistons with larger pins. The distributor head from a 67 will, I believe, mount on the earlier models to give a easy path to electronic ignition. I'm not sure however with the tang on the drive shaft and the rotor shaft, it might even run backwards... There's a picture of my 66 1100SS on the site somewhere. It has silver/red decals and a flame on the lower cowling trim horse shoe. I always thought the 950 was rated at 95hp instead to make the 110hp 1100 look more attractive. That's probably showing my bias against marketing people. Just as the 1250 looked much more attractive vs the 1000 instead of the 1100... Kinda like $19.95 seems like a lot less than $20.00?!?” This reply was written by username CrayzKirk. I suspected something like this went all, but was not sure. It all makes more sense to me about the identification of my outboard. Mine falls in the middle category, so I have a dual point set up with single ignition coil. My question is: will the solid state trigger coil fit my distributor (I would change the rotor also) and where do the three wires hook up. As of right now the dual points have one wire each that connect to a single post of the switch box(left side of box as if you are driving the boat). The condenser is also connected to the same post. The newer solid state trigger coil has three wires from it (brown, Black and red, (I think)) that connects to the switch box using three separate terminals. Would I have to change out the switch box? Or is there a way to hook up the trigger coil to the older switch box. Cost is also a concern; if I have to switch out the switch box I will stay with points. I will upload some pictures of my set up. Thank you, Matt	Ok, I am eating a little crow here. The second reply to my topic was from kimcrwbr1, he suggested I go through every wire. I thought I did. Evidently I did not test the wires well enough in the distributor. the following is what I just posted to another forum: Hello all, I have a 1967 Mercury 950 SS with Serial # 2100114. I have been trying to track down an electrical issue on this outboard and found that the two wires coming from the distributor (points) were bad (Bad as in: internal corrosion, shorting, cracked insulation and very high resistance). I installed a new engine wire harness last year and have checked every other wire that was not replaced. I have tested the stator and it checks out, OK. The outboard originally had the older orange rectifier; I switched it out for the newer diamond shaped one. The old one tested bad and now the new one tests bad. I am assuming it is from my shorted out wires. It must have blown one of the diodes. I already have a new rectifier (new style) and will install it when I replace the wires from the points. Know here is one of my dilemmas. I was combing the internet today and came across a post on another forum and this is one of the replies in the topic: “There were three 950s (and 1100s)... Early 66 ones had the original dual point distributors with side electrode and dual coils. These also had thicker rings. The middle SS models made in 66 had dual point distributors that fired an electronic ignition and the 67 SS models had full electronic ignition. The 66 SS models used the 1/16" rings with small piston pins and the older style rods. The 67 models used the newer larger rods and pistons with larger pins. The distributor head from a 67 will, I believe, mount on the earlier models to give a easy path to electronic ignition. I'm not sure however with the tang on the drive shaft and the rotor shaft, it might even run backwards... There's a picture of my 66 1100SS on the site somewhere. It has silver/red decals and a flame on the lower cowling trim horse shoe. I always thought the 950 was rated at 95hp instead to make the 110hp 1100 look more attractive. That's probably showing my bias against marketing people. Just as the 1250 looked much more attractive vs the 1000 instead of the 1100... Kinda like $19.95 seems like a lot less than $20.00?!?” This reply was written by username CrayzKirk. I suspected something like this went all, but was not sure. It all makes more sense to me about the identification of my outboard. Mine falls in the middle category, so I have a dual point set up with single ignition coil. My question is: will the solid state trigger coil fit my distributor (I would change the rotor also) and where do the three wires hook up. As of right now the dual points have one wire each that connect to a single post of the switch box(left side of box as if you are driving the boat). The condenser is also connected to the same post. The newer solid state trigger coil has three wires from it (brown, Black and red, (I think)) that connects to the switch box using three separate terminals. Would I have to change out the switch box? Or is there a way to hook up the trigger coil to the older switch box. Cost is also a concern; if I have to switch out the switch box I will stay with points. I will upload some pictures of my set up. Thank you, Matt	tried starts dies i put my choke starts first turn and then adjust and goes to fast idle. warm up or put in gear no biggy.
Human: Good morning all, I have a 1967 Mercury 950 SS with serial number: 2100114 and it is mounted on a 1965 Lone-star aluminum hull. I am getting some erratic voltage readings from my charging system at the battery and at the engine. I am using digital multi-meters for the testing. First off at the battery my meter reads 12.5 vdc before start up. After start up the meter readings jumps around and then the meter shuts down (It just turns off. I'm assuming this is a safety feature on the meter). I switched to a Kliein Tools meter(MM2000). I hook the meter to the battery in volts DC mode, start the engine and the meter readings start to jump around and then switches to AC mode while still jumping around (not going above 4 volts AC)(I'm also assuming that it has an automatic input feature (AC to DC)). I also get erratic readings while the engine is running and I touch only one lead of my meter (in volts DC) to the chassis of the engine. The other lead of the meter is dangling in the air. At this point I disconnected the stator from the rectifier and restart the engine. I now get 5 volts from each of the yellow leads of the stator to chassis ground and 19 volts AC across the two yellow leads. I still get the erratic reading when I touch one lead of the meter to the chassis. This has lead me to believe that I have AC voltage leaking into the ground of the chassis or a loose connection. I removed the fly wheel and checked continuity from the chassis ground to each of the output wires to find none, so its not grounding to the chassis. I did find where the yellow leads connect to the first two coils on the stator to be a bit corroded and the timing belt to be well dry rotted ( i do not feel the belt had anything to do with my problem, but needs to be replaced). This outboard seems to have the older rectifier(32177A 2) with shorting clipper. I am not sure if this is the right one, I thought it should have the 78614A rectifier. I am looking to replace the stator, if I can find one, along with the rectifier and belt. At the very least I will replace the rectifier and belt and reconnect/clean the corrosion from the two yellow leads and re-insulate the wires. Any help is appreciated with this issue. Also, I know the stators are obsolete, but does anyone know were to get one, or a compatible replacement? Thank you, Chonka Assistant:	Here is the link to the pictures https://goo.gl/photos/CTVPQoy57exkpTwi6	Here is the link to the pictures https://goo.gl/photos/CTVPQoy57exkpTwi6	hummingbird 581i.I will do some research thanks-B
Human: I have a 1987 200 hp Mariner outboard. Typically the battery meter reads between 12 and 14 v when underway. Recently it goes up to 16 v almost immediately. My question is, is this a problem? Can I be overcharging my batteries (I've got 2 of them.)? Assistant:	Most likely situation is that one of your batteries is run down or dead and the regulator is putting out max voltage to try to charge it. How old are the batteries. Marine batteries should normally be replaced every four or five years.	Most likely situation is that one of your batteries is run down or dead and the regulator is putting out max voltage to try to charge it. How old are the batteries. Marine batteries should normally be replaced every four or five years.	I think you're getting ahead of yourself. The HP decision is determined by use. I'm the inventor that put my CC 33' Sports Sedan on a tandem axle trailer and pull it with the Semi Pintle on my Dodge Cummins 2500...wide, tall and long. What are you using your boat for? I plan to install twin Ford 4CYL hybrid motors from auto and use a marine exhaust manifold to "marine" the exhaust. Lots lighter and allows for many deep cell batteries low in the hull to keep my Chris Craft vertical - and on top. Why you ask...because I want to fish the mouth of the Columbia for Salmon and the thought of trolling without an engine running is fantastic. It doesn't take twin screws many revolutions - or horsepower - to keep it navigating true. Up and down river. So: Figure out if you have a nitch like me, or you want a direct replacement for the weight and horsepower in your boat today. Good luck - I will post again when I finish "Fortune Cookie" and provide photos.
Human: I have a 1987 200 hp Mariner outboard. Typically the battery meter reads between 12 and 14 v when underway. Recently it goes up to 16 v almost immediately. My question is, is this a problem? Can I be overcharging my batteries (I've got 2 of them.)? Assistant:	CHawk, Thanks for the reply. The batteries are only a year old. I have a meter that came with my electric trolling motor and it is showing them less than full charge though, which is a bit suspicious. I guess I'll hook up a shop battery charger and see how they accept the charge. If they appear fully charged I'll fire up the motor and see if things look the same.	CHawk, Thanks for the reply. The batteries are only a year old. I have a meter that came with my electric trolling motor and it is showing them less than full charge though, which is a bit suspicious. I guess I'll hook up a shop battery charger and see how they accept the charge. If they appear fully charged I'll fire up the motor and see if things look the same.	The instruction booklet tells me to power it with a power source that is only hot with the engine running. Click to expand... Ayuh,...... So what might that engine be,..??
Human: I have a 1987 200 hp Mariner outboard. Typically the battery meter reads between 12 and 14 v when underway. Recently it goes up to 16 v almost immediately. My question is, is this a problem? Can I be overcharging my batteries (I've got 2 of them.)? Assistant:	A single weak or bad cell in a battery will cause problems like you described. If this is not a sealed battery, check the level of electrolyte in each of the cells. Top off, then charge it completely.	A single weak or bad cell in a battery will cause problems like you described. If this is not a sealed battery, check the level of electrolyte in each of the cells. Top off, then charge it completely.	deejaycee_2000 said: The 150hp 2-strokes weight the same as the 200hp motors as far as I remember, they were pretty much the same motor .... Click to expand... Going to check one tomorrow. Not sure I can get it in the marina for inspection. Will bring a compression gauge. Anything I have to know to perform the test? Wide open throttle, fresh battery? Do you disable the ignition to prevent a meltdown? What numbers are ideal? One I recently looked at had 120 across the board. Tia
Human: I suddenly lost all power to main switch board. No lights, fish finder, horn, live well etc.Any suggestions? Assistant:	blown inline fuse in a red wire coming off the battery?	blown inline fuse in a red wire coming off the battery?	Hook the engine up to "ear muffs" and see if there is plenty of water coming from the pee-hole and the exhaust from the center of the propeller. Maybe take the cowling off the ourboard, pull out the thermostat and then have someone start the engine for a few seconds and see if plenty of water makes it's way all the way up there. IF it does, I think you're engine is probably fine and you may need a new water temperature sensor. Sensors go bad all the time but engines are simple. If the water is flowing fast and not steaming hot it is probably a sensor.
Human: I suddenly lost all power to main switch board. No lights, fish finder, horn, live well etc.Any suggestions? Assistant:	OR, the ground wire has become disconnected. More likely what Papyson said.	OR, the ground wire has become disconnected. More likely what Papyson said.	I could not locate a Volvo penta tool Click to expand... Ayuh,..... Alignment bars are All the same, 'n yes, it should go all the way in, when properly aligned,......
Human: I suddenly lost all power to main switch board. No lights, fish finder, horn, live well etc.Any suggestions? Assistant:	Battery connections are all good. There is no fuse off battery. There is a red button sticking in engine compartment, looks like a fuse but is not. It has a 20 marked on it. Some type of elec. component. No power to that. These same buttons are on trolling motor.	Battery connections are all good. There is no fuse off battery. There is a red button sticking in engine compartment, looks like a fuse but is not. It has a 20 marked on it. Some type of elec. component. No power to that. These same buttons are on trolling motor.	The O was just a guess as my 92 is an Q, I just counted back two letters to get the O. As mentioned though, I'm no expert Looks like the numbers aren't in order. And yours is a D or F according to this (That is a big "if" if the equivalent Mariner year matched the Yamaha one. https://www.perfprotech.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/yamaha_models.gif
Human: I suddenly lost all power to main switch board. No lights, fish finder, horn, live well etc.Any suggestions? Assistant:	That red button is likely a 20 Amp breaker fuse. Push it in to reset it. Then you should be good to go. If there is no power going to it, then you have a problem between the breaker and your battery.	That red button is likely a 20 Amp breaker fuse. Push it in to reset it. Then you should be good to go. If there is no power going to it, then you have a problem between the breaker and your battery.	Hi. If you want to flush it, you should backflush it rather than use the muffs. If you don't have a backflushing adapter, I would install one. Not expensive and easy to do. If you get a stiff stream when in the water at speeds slightly above idle, then I would guess your impeller is just fine.
Human: So boat has run months perfectly since I got it. 89 Bayliner Carpi with OMC. 2.3L. So it runs great then dies and won't restart even with starter fluid. I cranked and all the sudden it won't stop cranking. I pulled the key and safety out still cranking. Pulled all fuses out still cranking. I had to dang near melt a battery terminal trying to get the lead off..well it did melt. It finally stopped. It was causing a lot of heat or I would have let It crank till it died. Any ideas? Assistant:	Ok having it done as I am not sure I am up to par but my mechanic says solenoid now if we can figure the fuel problem out too	Ok having it done as I am not sure I am up to par but my mechanic says solenoid now if we can figure the fuel problem out too	Hi. If you want to flush it, you should backflush it rather than use the muffs. If you don't have a backflushing adapter, I would install one. Not expensive and easy to do. If you get a stiff stream when in the water at speeds slightly above idle, then I would guess your impeller is just fine.
Human: So boat has run months perfectly since I got it. 89 Bayliner Carpi with OMC. 2.3L. So it runs great then dies and won't restart even with starter fluid. I cranked and all the sudden it won't stop cranking. I pulled the key and safety out still cranking. Pulled all fuses out still cranking. I had to dang near melt a battery terminal trying to get the lead off..well it did melt. It finally stopped. It was causing a lot of heat or I would have let It crank till it died. Any ideas? Assistant:	It may be fuel or it may be spark. Eliminate a spark problem first. Make sure all plugs are firing when cranking. You can use a timing light to do that.	It may be fuel or it may be spark. Eliminate a spark problem first. Make sure all plugs are firing when cranking. You can use a timing light to do that.	boscoe said: The alarm will sound only when the main engine mounted oil tank is low. The remote tank could be low or it could be full. For the automatic transfer system to work the CDI must be receiving a ground from the remote oil tank sensor. As noted, the wire harness from the motor to the remote tank can have poor conductivity. Either from the block to the sensor, the sensor itself could have failed, or from the sensor to the CDI.[/QUOTE Thank you i will check into this but help me understand. If the manual switch works don’t I have a good ground? There are four wires to the remote tank under the seat. Two for level sensor and two for pump. Click to expand...
Human: So boat has run months perfectly since I got it. 89 Bayliner Carpi with OMC. 2.3L. So it runs great then dies and won't restart even with starter fluid. I cranked and all the sudden it won't stop cranking. I pulled the key and safety out still cranking. Pulled all fuses out still cranking. I had to dang near melt a battery terminal trying to get the lead off..well it did melt. It finally stopped. It was causing a lot of heat or I would have let It crank till it died. Any ideas? Assistant:	Fuel problem wouldnt cause runaway cranking only the starter or the solenoid can cause that	Fuel problem wouldnt cause runaway cranking only the starter or the solenoid can cause that	Pull the carbs clean them thoroughly. Blow air through all the passages. Also use carb cleaner or soak them. Iv done it more times than I can count and iv learned one thing above all others, if you think you've cleaned it enough clean it again. A single spec of dirt can wreak havoc. Do that and get back with us. Good luck.
Human: So boat has run months perfectly since I got it. 89 Bayliner Carpi with OMC. 2.3L. So it runs great then dies and won't restart even with starter fluid. I cranked and all the sudden it won't stop cranking. I pulled the key and safety out still cranking. Pulled all fuses out still cranking. I had to dang near melt a battery terminal trying to get the lead off..well it did melt. It finally stopped. It was causing a lot of heat or I would have let It crank till it died. Any ideas? Assistant:	Fuel problem not spark I just checked spark and changed plugs ect. The fuel water seperator is not all the way full?	Fuel problem not spark I just checked spark and changed plugs ect. The fuel water seperator is not all the way full?	Just talked to a local Yamaha mechanic, he thought more likely it was leaking carburetor fuel bowl. Possible I suppose, but I just rebuilt that carb. this spring and put in a new float, needle valve, adjusted everything to spec., etc.
Human: So boat has run months perfectly since I got it. 89 Bayliner Carpi with OMC. 2.3L. So it runs great then dies and won't restart even with starter fluid. I cranked and all the sudden it won't stop cranking. I pulled the key and safety out still cranking. Pulled all fuses out still cranking. I had to dang near melt a battery terminal trying to get the lead off..well it did melt. It finally stopped. It was causing a lot of heat or I would have let It crank till it died. Any ideas? Assistant:	Well, OK - did you check that the timing marks line up when cylinder # 1 is at TDC? Possibly your fuel pick up tube in your tank is clogged. For a temporary fix, remove the fuel tank filler cap and blow low pressure compressed air back through the fuel line into the pick up tube. A permanent fix is to remove the pick up tube and clean the screen on the end of it. If you have a primer (pump up) bulb, inspect the check valve to make sure it is not stuck or clogged, or replace it. A quick check is to bypass the pump up bulb and see if she starts.	Well, OK - did you check that the timing marks line up when cylinder # 1 is at TDC? Possibly your fuel pick up tube in your tank is clogged. For a temporary fix, remove the fuel tank filler cap and blow low pressure compressed air back through the fuel line into the pick up tube. A permanent fix is to remove the pick up tube and clean the screen on the end of it. If you have a primer (pump up) bulb, inspect the check valve to make sure it is not stuck or clogged, or replace it. A quick check is to bypass the pump up bulb and see if she starts.	Mix 50:1 fuel/oil in a separate tank ,disconnect the link arm from the pump , pull one oil pipe off at a time where it goes into the block start the motor and move the pump arm fully open by hand while the motor is idling and watch the oil come out the pipe get a container to catch it .do one pipe at a time .
Human: Hi,new to boating ,just bought boat with Honda 9.9 outboard,it has had the remote ignition removed and the wires cut ,can anybody help with which wire is for what,yellow,red,black,white,blue,brown,green, thanks in anticipation Assistant:	if you can post the model number and the serial number, I can help you.	if you can post the model number and the serial number, I can help you.	Your location in Canada ?-----No local dealer ?
Human: Hi,new to boating ,just bought boat with Honda 9.9 outboard,it has had the remote ignition removed and the wires cut ,can anybody help with which wire is for what,yellow,red,black,white,blue,brown,green, thanks in anticipation Assistant:	Also, post your question on the Honda forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home" and then click on Honda Outboards. There are several Honda techs and very knowledgeable people who hang out on that forum.	Also, post your question on the Honda forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home" and then click on Honda Outboards. There are several Honda techs and very knowledgeable people who hang out on that forum.	bperry said: Remove engine cover and check fuse on engine, Mine was supposed to have a 20 amp and PO had put in a 10 amp. It blew and my tilt and trim or starter would work. Replaced with 20 now fine. Click to expand... I dropped it off at the place that installed it this morning. I have a thirty day warranty. I wish I knew earlier. Thanks! Amazingly enuff I forgot to check the oil level....LOL I deserve what I get. Master Chief, I was a Navy cook from 79 - 85. A little time in first division before supply.
Human: 1986 Riviera Ebbtide 4.3L OMC Cobra. Have a 14 1/4 X 17 prop. When idling the tach reads between 600-700 RPM. The engines runs like a dream. Starts right up, no problems. Checked wiring on Tach. Grounds are good, hot is good, sender good. Get it on the lake and when I go to almost WOT the Tach will read about 3000 RPM and the engine is reving loud. The boat is probably moving about 40-45 mph (can't decipher to knots). I looked on the back and put the dial on 6 cyclinders is this right for my 4.3L OMC Cobra? Maybe a new Tach? Help please. Any other way to test the Tach for accuracy? Thanks. Assistant:	If it is original, it has probably suffered internal corrosion and should be replaced. Many times, you can get temporary relieve by cycling the cylinder count switch back and forth many times. As far as testing goes, there are 3 ways I know of: 1) known good shop tach used as a reference, 2) a " tach tester" - self contained electronic box that generates pulses similar to the ignition coil, & 3) an optical (non-contact) tach used to read rpm from the crankshaft.	If it is original, it has probably suffered internal corrosion and should be replaced. Many times, you can get temporary relieve by cycling the cylinder count switch back and forth many times. As far as testing goes, there are 3 ways I know of: 1) known good shop tach used as a reference, 2) a " tach tester" - self contained electronic box that generates pulses similar to the ignition coil, & 3) an optical (non-contact) tach used to read rpm from the crankshaft.	i have done already and its still in place and there.
Human: 1986 Riviera Ebbtide 4.3L OMC Cobra. Have a 14 1/4 X 17 prop. When idling the tach reads between 600-700 RPM. The engines runs like a dream. Starts right up, no problems. Checked wiring on Tach. Grounds are good, hot is good, sender good. Get it on the lake and when I go to almost WOT the Tach will read about 3000 RPM and the engine is reving loud. The boat is probably moving about 40-45 mph (can't decipher to knots). I looked on the back and put the dial on 6 cyclinders is this right for my 4.3L OMC Cobra? Maybe a new Tach? Help please. Any other way to test the Tach for accuracy? Thanks. Assistant:	I've been through this nightmare before as well! I finally said to hell with it and bought custom gauges from Ocean Gauges[/URL] You can purchase any amount of gauges that you need and calibrate them for both your tach and tank size."]Ocean Gauges.com They're really accurate and you can calibrate them to just about anything.[/URL]	I've been through this nightmare before as well! I finally said to hell with it and bought custom gauges from Ocean Gauges[/URL] You can purchase any amount of gauges that you need and calibrate them for both your tach and tank size."]Ocean Gauges.com They're really accurate and you can calibrate them to just about anything.[/URL]	DJR said: Teleflex, the marine products company, no longer exists. Sea Star Solutions is the company supplying helms like yours. On their website, click Products > Mechanical Steering > and the helm you are looking for. http://www.seastarsolutions.com/ I replaced my steering a few years ago, and had a question for Sea Star. Their tech support folks were very helpful. Click to expand... Another question is, should I upgrade to power steering? My friend has this on his boat, and it's great!
Human: 1986 Riviera Ebbtide 4.3L OMC Cobra. Have a 14 1/4 X 17 prop. When idling the tach reads between 600-700 RPM. The engines runs like a dream. Starts right up, no problems. Checked wiring on Tach. Grounds are good, hot is good, sender good. Get it on the lake and when I go to almost WOT the Tach will read about 3000 RPM and the engine is reving loud. The boat is probably moving about 40-45 mph (can't decipher to knots). I looked on the back and put the dial on 6 cyclinders is this right for my 4.3L OMC Cobra? Maybe a new Tach? Help please. Any other way to test the Tach for accuracy? Thanks. Assistant:	TACH PROBLEMS: Hopefully, I'm doing this right 1991 Johnson 150GT OMC Tach Voltage regulator replaced 2010, <30 hours on it Wiring checks ok. 1) Tach is intermittent 2) When it is working, drops to zero as soon as it reaches +/-2700 rpm Thanx!	TACH PROBLEMS: Hopefully, I'm doing this right 1991 Johnson 150GT OMC Tach Voltage regulator replaced 2010, <30 hours on it Wiring checks ok. 1) Tach is intermittent 2) When it is working, drops to zero as soon as it reaches +/-2700 rpm Thanx!	On all the OMC brands, the yellow with red stripe wire is for the starter solenoid, which closes the solenoid to allow main battery power to go to the starter motor. It is probably the same color code for mercury/mariner. If that wire was grounded, or the solenoid has failed and stuck closed, then turning on the starter will heat it up. If that switch you discovered is actually the solenoid, then that is likely your problem. It should have three or four wires - the yellow w/red stripe you described, a black ground wire, and a heavy red wire usually directly from the battery. There may also be a heavy black wire for grounding the starter, or the the starter may simply be grounded through the bolts to the engine frame. Now for my disclaimer - I'm not a marine mechanic by any means. I've just been around boats and motors for a long time and try to do my own maintenane and repair when I can. Currently run a Honda 225 on a 25 ft C-Hawk in the Chesapeake and offshore out of Hatteras.
Human: 1986 Riviera Ebbtide 4.3L OMC Cobra. Have a 14 1/4 X 17 prop. When idling the tach reads between 600-700 RPM. The engines runs like a dream. Starts right up, no problems. Checked wiring on Tach. Grounds are good, hot is good, sender good. Get it on the lake and when I go to almost WOT the Tach will read about 3000 RPM and the engine is reving loud. The boat is probably moving about 40-45 mph (can't decipher to knots). I looked on the back and put the dial on 6 cyclinders is this right for my 4.3L OMC Cobra? Maybe a new Tach? Help please. Any other way to test the Tach for accuracy? Thanks. Assistant:	bajaskier said: TACH PROBLEMS: Hopefully, I'm doing this right 1991 Johnson 150GT OMC Tach Voltage regulator replaced 2010, <30 hours on it Wiring checks ok. 1) Tach is intermittent 2) When it is working, drops to zero as soon as it reaches +/-2700 rpm Thanx! Click to expand... Ayuh,.... Yer close,.... Start a thread of yer own, insteada hi-jackin' a 3 year old thread,.... Start yer own thread in the Johnny-Rude Outboard forum insteada in this forum,....	bajaskier said: TACH PROBLEMS: Hopefully, I'm doing this right 1991 Johnson 150GT OMC Tach Voltage regulator replaced 2010, <30 hours on it Wiring checks ok. 1) Tach is intermittent 2) When it is working, drops to zero as soon as it reaches +/-2700 rpm Thanx! Click to expand... Ayuh,.... Yer close,.... Start a thread of yer own, insteada hi-jackin' a 3 year old thread,.... Start yer own thread in the Johnny-Rude Outboard forum insteada in this forum,....	When you squeeze the primer ball does it get firm and stay firm?
Human: 1986 Riviera Ebbtide 4.3L OMC Cobra. Have a 14 1/4 X 17 prop. When idling the tach reads between 600-700 RPM. The engines runs like a dream. Starts right up, no problems. Checked wiring on Tach. Grounds are good, hot is good, sender good. Get it on the lake and when I go to almost WOT the Tach will read about 3000 RPM and the engine is reving loud. The boat is probably moving about 40-45 mph (can't decipher to knots). I looked on the back and put the dial on 6 cyclinders is this right for my 4.3L OMC Cobra? Maybe a new Tach? Help please. Any other way to test the Tach for accuracy? Thanks. Assistant:	Thanx! bondo said: Ayuh,.... Yer close,.... Start a thread of yer own, insteada hi-jackin' a 3 year old thread,.... Start yer own thread in the Johnny-Rude Outboard forum insteada in this forum,.... Click to expand...	Thanx! bondo said: Ayuh,.... Yer close,.... Start a thread of yer own, insteada hi-jackin' a 3 year old thread,.... Start yer own thread in the Johnny-Rude Outboard forum insteada in this forum,.... Click to expand...	I contacted Bayliner in Australia, they where very supportive! Fast and Great help from the Guys in Australia ! Great...
Human: Can anyone tell me what this part is called ? Obviously it is rusted out and corroded. The red wire from my switchboard ( for lights / aerator and bilge ) was attached to one end, and the red wire coming out of my battery switch was attached to the other - I removed those wires from this because it is in such bad shape / I also was troubleshooting why I am getting NO power to my switchboard and this seemed to be the first sign that I saw. Any advice would be really helpful - Thank you Assistant:	That's a DC circuit breaker, and it looks like it's had it. You can test it with an ohmmeter- you should have continuity from one terminal to the other. If you have to replace it, the amperage should be stamped on the casing. It looks like all your connections need to be taken apart and cleaned.	That's a DC circuit breaker, and it looks like it's had it. You can test it with an ohmmeter- you should have continuity from one terminal to the other. If you have to replace it, the amperage should be stamped on the casing. It looks like all your connections need to be taken apart and cleaned.	Docksidemarineservices said: DO NOT ORDER REBUILT INJECTORS! There really is no such thing. Pulls your out, find a local shop and have them cleaned and serviced. Around $25 each for the service W/filters and o-rings. Simple job on your 150. Click to expand... There are a few places that sell cleaned serviced injectors. I was going to order them and send mine out for service so I have an extra set. I found these guys https://www.newenglandinjectors.com...low_Tested_Cleaned_(4)_63P-13761-00-00.html#/ any thoughts on that plan?
Human: I have a 1995 bayliner 2355 ciera with a mercruiser engine when i crack up the boat the (warning horn) comes on and don't go off. I check the oil level and it is good. The engine temperature is not going up or running hot (water level is good ) the drive lube was a litter low (so i top it off) waited a few min and still continue to go off *****the boat will crank up and run with no problem . I just don't want to take a chance damaging something or making it worse . I have read /seen that it will also go off if the batters is low ( will go get them and charge them and see if that will work . Until then i would love some help / feed back if that does not solve the problem thank you Assistant:	Ayuh,.... Unplug each sensor, 'n see which one shuts off the buzzer,.....	Ayuh,.... Unplug each sensor, 'n see which one shuts off the buzzer,.....	o2batsea said: What Rick shows is overly complex. The new way is to build the system with ACR and delete the battery switches. Both engines start and run on the "start bank" but will charge up the "House bank" while running. The ACR ensures that the start bank gets charged up by bleeding off excess charge amps to it from the house bank. In emergency, like if the start bank poops out for any reason, your ACR will automatically parallel the house batteries so that you will be able to start the engines. The 1,2,BOTH, OFF switches are cheap and dirty solution that manufacturers throw on to solve this charging problem. I don't use them at all. The new way is far better. Does not require you to worry about what position the switches are Click to expand... In many cases, twin engine boats that are under 34 feet or so, will use the Stbd side engine batt bank for the house loads. This is because the house loads are derived from the Stbd engine common interface. In other words, the Stbd engine batt bank (via the hull harness interface) provides house load power. If you want to crank both engines from the Port side batt bank, and yet keep house loads separated from the Stbd engine side, you would need to re-wire the way in which house loads received their power. I fail to see how my schematic creates a more complicated scenario compared to doing all of that! Now.... if you incorporate the BlueSea 7622 ML 500 Amp ACR, you can make this happen without the need to change anything re; the Stbd side batt bank and house load interface. KIS.... keep it simple..... and owner comprehensible.
Human: My switch has broke and would like to find a replacement. Mine has 9 wires on it. Does anyone know where I can get one? Assistant:	Read this and see if it helps: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/m...trical/1994-up/key-switch-3-position-88107a-5	Read this and see if it helps: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/m...trical/1994-up/key-switch-3-position-88107a-5	Leodan said: Thanks for the warning. Would that be likely, even though they have never seen water? Click to expand... It has nothing to do with use, just the time the impeller is compressed into the housing.
Human: Hey everyone! I'm new here and looking for your advice. I've seen a boat with coloured underwater light a while ago and thought that it look pretty cool. Something similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCi1B2iz5PU Anyone know where I can get one? Assistant:	I think I've seen them in the West Marine catalog.	I think I've seen them in the West Marine catalog.	Cheers guys, prop has been given to agent for replacement
Human: Hey everyone! I'm new here and looking for your advice. I've seen a boat with coloured underwater light a while ago and thought that it look pretty cool. Something similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCi1B2iz5PU Anyone know where I can get one? Assistant:	Thanks for the link! So I spent the last week to research more on this topic and came up with a decision to buy that wake flame because it produces a great amount of lumens (1440) this should be enough to light up a decent area behind.	Thanks for the link! So I spent the last week to research more on this topic and came up with a decision to buy that wake flame because it produces a great amount of lumens (1440) this should be enough to light up a decent area behind.	A 73 should have a red plug.---And all controls with a red plug work on motors with a red plug.
Human: Hey everyone! I'm new here and looking for your advice. I've seen a boat with coloured underwater light a while ago and thought that it look pretty cool. Something similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCi1B2iz5PU Anyone know where I can get one? Assistant:	I forgot to include the link: http://www.carid.com/rigid-industries/rigid-industries-marine-led-lights-12714167.html Can't wait to get it. Will post some pictures!	I forgot to include the link: http://www.carid.com/rigid-industries/rigid-industries-marine-led-lights-12714167.html Can't wait to get it. Will post some pictures!	https://youtu.be/mQRleaxn52E
Human: Hey everyone! I'm new here and looking for your advice. I've seen a boat with coloured underwater light a while ago and thought that it look pretty cool. Something similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCi1B2iz5PU Anyone know where I can get one? Assistant:	Ayuh,.... Only a Grand,..?? I can live without one,.....	Ayuh,.... Only a Grand,..?? I can live without one,.....	i have a auto bilge pump installed at the low point ......works great.....the low point is not in the rear.....its at the front on the port side....the counter and stove and a 5 cubic foot freezer is on that side in the front cabin..on the other side is the small fridge and a good size air conditioner and a couch...the rear has the bunks and behind that the shower on one side and the commode and sewer treatment plant on the other...hot water tank under a bunk....misc boxes of stuff under both bunks...it appears level when you step down into it but i have loaded it on purpose to make that the low point...my thinking at this point is to work some silicone caulk into where the piece of wood that holds the pipe meets the metal as best i can...then spray the foam all over the whole thing.....the leak is not that bad for a boat that size and age....the bilge pump comes on for about 5-7 minutes about once a week...and then only if you add a persons weight to the front left of the boat....and the leak will go away for months at a time...i can pump it out and then suck it dry with a shop vac and it may get water in it in 2 days or it may stay dry for a long time..acts like a loose rivet and it may very well turn out to be something like that instead of the sea cock...
Human: Something strange is happening causing virtually all of my gauges to read wrong. I have a Sea Ray 200 CC 1989, and there is something strange in the mix. The voltage pins to the right + 18v, and I have confirmed this is not accurate when running with a volt meter. The Trim gauge reads all the way to the left. Proper trim is the first line on the left when on a plane. The RPM gauge intermittently reads incorrectly, and shows a higher RPM than what I am actually running. The temp gauge is reading high as well. I have confirmed temp with an IR thermometer, and tried replacing the temp gauge. The new temp gauge also shows a high reading. The speedometer also reads wrong, but I dont expect much from that one. I would really like correct temp and voltage. What gives?!! Might it be a grounding issue? Assistant:	Yes - most likely a bad ground. You need to go on a rabbit hunt to find it. First look for any loose ground wires. First place to check are all ground wires coming off the battery(ies). While doing that, inspect and clean all ground connections. If that doesn't fix the problem, then test ground wire resistances with a digital voltmeter. Should be extremely low resistance on all wires and terminals.	Yes - most likely a bad ground. You need to go on a rabbit hunt to find it. First look for any loose ground wires. First place to check are all ground wires coming off the battery(ies). While doing that, inspect and clean all ground connections. If that doesn't fix the problem, then test ground wire resistances with a digital voltmeter. Should be extremely low resistance on all wires and terminals.	Thx,boscoe It is called 40Y is the same as 50Y from the year 2000
Human: Something strange is happening causing virtually all of my gauges to read wrong. I have a Sea Ray 200 CC 1989, and there is something strange in the mix. The voltage pins to the right + 18v, and I have confirmed this is not accurate when running with a volt meter. The Trim gauge reads all the way to the left. Proper trim is the first line on the left when on a plane. The RPM gauge intermittently reads incorrectly, and shows a higher RPM than what I am actually running. The temp gauge is reading high as well. I have confirmed temp with an IR thermometer, and tried replacing the temp gauge. The new temp gauge also shows a high reading. The speedometer also reads wrong, but I dont expect much from that one. I would really like correct temp and voltage. What gives?!! Might it be a grounding issue? Assistant:	Ayuh,.... Agreed,... Loose, corroded, bad ground connections, could be anywhere, or everywhere,.... Start at the battery, 'n clean 'em to Shiny metal Clean,.... Greasein' 'em, will keep 'em corrosion free,...	Ayuh,.... Agreed,... Loose, corroded, bad ground connections, could be anywhere, or everywhere,.... Start at the battery, 'n clean 'em to Shiny metal Clean,.... Greasein' 'em, will keep 'em corrosion free,...	Bough plate aluminum boat AMM 6800. Pleased with it self water draining system that keeps the boat driest all the time. Worry free cleaning indeed.
Human: I have a 1989 Stratos inboard boat. It was given to me and I am trying my best to get it cranked before doing any more of the needed work. I was replacing the battery cables on the motor and when I reached for the ground wire to pull it off the stud in the motor a ring came with it that separated the battery cable from the ground wire going to the motor. I was wondering if I should replace this before putting it all back together or if it is okay to tighten everything back up? It was something of a spacer or locker....it had teeth on the inside. I'm pretty new and any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank You! Assistant:	That is probably a "toothed" lock washer to keep the terminal nuts from vibrating loose. They should be in place.	That is probably a "toothed" lock washer to keep the terminal nuts from vibrating loose. They should be in place.	3.3 liter with mechanical controls.
Human: I have a 1989 Stratos inboard boat. It was given to me and I am trying my best to get it cranked before doing any more of the needed work. I was replacing the battery cables on the motor and when I reached for the ground wire to pull it off the stud in the motor a ring came with it that separated the battery cable from the ground wire going to the motor. I was wondering if I should replace this before putting it all back together or if it is okay to tighten everything back up? It was something of a spacer or locker....it had teeth on the inside. I'm pretty new and any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank You! Assistant:	chawk_man said: That is probably a "toothed" lock washer to keep the terminal nuts from vibrating loose. They should be in place. Click to expand... So when I get another it should be the hex nut followed by toothed locker and the two ground cables or the locker in between The two cables when tightening?	chawk_man said: That is probably a "toothed" lock washer to keep the terminal nuts from vibrating loose. They should be in place. Click to expand... So when I get another it should be the hex nut followed by toothed locker and the two ground cables or the locker in between The two cables when tightening?	Thanks Johnny , Iv fused all circuts . So you only run the motors starter off the starter batt ?
Human: I have a 1989 Stratos inboard boat. It was given to me and I am trying my best to get it cranked before doing any more of the needed work. I was replacing the battery cables on the motor and when I reached for the ground wire to pull it off the stud in the motor a ring came with it that separated the battery cable from the ground wire going to the motor. I was wondering if I should replace this before putting it all back together or if it is okay to tighten everything back up? It was something of a spacer or locker....it had teeth on the inside. I'm pretty new and any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank You! Assistant:	Hex nut should be tightened down onto the "locker" and the cable underneath the locker.	Hex nut should be tightened down onto the "locker" and the cable underneath the locker.	Okay, thanks. Time to start thinking indeed - pour some money into a unit that may have many other parts near failure, or start over with lots more money all at once! We're not depending on it for a warm Christmas, so we have time to experiment a bit more as well as ponder. I'll let you know what transpires. Thanks again... ~Loren
Human: I'm pretty green in the electrical area but would like a little assistance. My friends boat kept shutting off when a wave hit the boat at the dock or some other movement on the boat that was made. In checking all the wiring behind the gauges and ignition, we pretty much boiled it down to it being one of the wires coming from the ignition witch. The wire from the switch ran into some sort of plastic housing sleeve about 2" long with electrical tape over it. We ran out of light last night and didn't' take it apart. Before we head back to dock, I want to be prepared to try and fix it. Does anyone know if this sleeve may hold a fuse or do you think it is some kind of housing used for splicing the wires together. Thanks in advance Assistant:	Ayuh,.... Hard to say,.... can't see it from here,....	Ayuh,.... Hard to say,.... can't see it from here,....	Still having intermittent issues with the port engine, Main/PTT fuse. Mechanic says he found a loose connection, but I am skeptical. I will be running it this weekend. If the fuse blows, I may replace the fuse and try not changing the trim for a long time and see if the fuse doesn't blow. I am also doing a visisual of the connections between the engine to the keys as the dash to see if there is anything looking odd, corroded, etc that might be creating a short. These intermittent issues are a pain to troubleshoot.
Human: I have a 80's Johnson 115hp and was given a oower tilt trim setup fot it. I have it all installed but the cable form the battery to the relay box is missing. What gauge wire and fuse size is required? Also where did the mount the relay box? Thank you Assistant:	Suggest that you post this question on the Johnson/Evinrude forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home", and then click on that forum.	Suggest that you post this question on the Johnson/Evinrude forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home", and then click on that forum.	Could this be the head gasket?
Human: Cannot prime carb with throttle, and no spark. I have been trouble shooting with no results. What I have done are as follows, drained fuel tank,refill,new gas lines all the way through to fuel pump, new water fuel seperator filter, new fuel pump filter, carb filter, new battery and coil. Pressurized fuel tank and have gas at fuel pump. I did a complete tune up last July new plugs cap, rotor, points, wires, condenser, rebuilt carb, new drive hub, water pump, timed and dyno. Ran out great. Only 40 hrs last summer on motor. I cecked points and they open. Tryed pouring gas in carb- no fire. I took off coil wire from cap and could not get a spark while trying to arc it on block. changed coil again with no luck. Tryed a lead wire from + battery post to + coil with no spark. checked reset button . Turns over slow even with new battery which checked out at 12.6v. Checked coil and it had 10.63 on resistor. I'm wondering if ther might be a problem with the neutral switch on the shifter also or the key switch. The starter is about 3 yrs. old, has no obvious clicking . Checked all connections on wires, cleaned up . If any one has a suggestion as what to do next, it will be much appreciated. Thanks. Assistant:	Ayuh,.... Do the points close,..?? I'd replace the points, 'n try it, they fire the coil,.... Points are also an Annual maintenance item,.... regardless the hours run,....	Ayuh,.... Do the points close,..?? I'd replace the points, 'n try it, they fire the coil,.... Points are also an Annual maintenance item,.... regardless the hours run,....	boscoe said: You say that the choke works. That model does not use a choke. I am confused. Click to expand... Oh.....I thought the choke engaged when you pressed the key in and turned the ignition.....i am the one confused...lol