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Human: just completed the rebuild of our '83, 40 hp merc outboard. can turn crank with wrench on flywheel. Starter will engage but will not turn the flywheel. works fine on the bench and solenoid seems ok. turned the motor fine before we rebuilt it. Seems like it lacks torque to turn the rebuilt motor. would a repair kit help? Assistant:	equinton said: just completed the rebuild of our '83, 40 hp merc outboard. can turn crank with wrench on flywheel. Starter will engage but will not turn the flywheel. works fine on the bench and solenoid seems ok. turned the motor fine before we rebuilt it. Seems like it lacks torque to turn the rebuilt motor. would a repair kit help? Click to expand... added info: Bendix gear engages the flywheel but won't turn it. Starter shaft keeps spinning in the Bendix gear. gets very hot quickly.	equinton said: just completed the rebuild of our '83, 40 hp merc outboard. can turn crank with wrench on flywheel. Starter will engage but will not turn the flywheel. works fine on the bench and solenoid seems ok. turned the motor fine before we rebuilt it. Seems like it lacks torque to turn the rebuilt motor. would a repair kit help? Click to expand... added info: Bendix gear engages the flywheel but won't turn it. Starter shaft keeps spinning in the Bendix gear. gets very hot quickly.	Picture attempt
Human: just completed the rebuild of our '83, 40 hp merc outboard. can turn crank with wrench on flywheel. Starter will engage but will not turn the flywheel. works fine on the bench and solenoid seems ok. turned the motor fine before we rebuilt it. Seems like it lacks torque to turn the rebuilt motor. would a repair kit help? Assistant:	Recheck your grounds,Do posts 2,3,4.could be internal corrosion in cables,Is battery fully charged?Know how to use dvm?Whats getting very hot,cables, starter,solenoid?	Recheck your grounds,Do posts 2,3,4.could be internal corrosion in cables,Is battery fully charged?Know how to use dvm?Whats getting very hot,cables, starter,solenoid?	I'd suggest reposting in the Volvo Penta area of the Gas Inboards section of the forum...there's lots of knowledgeable individuals there...Id suspect the 4 cylinder GM EST distributor may work...depends on the block used...
Human: just completed the rebuild of our '83, 40 hp merc outboard. can turn crank with wrench on flywheel. Starter will engage but will not turn the flywheel. works fine on the bench and solenoid seems ok. turned the motor fine before we rebuilt it. Seems like it lacks torque to turn the rebuilt motor. would a repair kit help? Assistant:	thanks for your advice. starter is getting good current. problem is Bendix gear will engage the flywheel but will not turn it. starter shaft continues to spin and the Bendix gear gets hot in a few seconds. does not appear to be an electrical problem. cables are good, batt fully charged. basically, the Bendix gear shoots up the shaft, engages the flywheel ring but will not turn the flywheel, yet the starter shaft continues to spin and heats the Bendix gear.	thanks for your advice. starter is getting good current. problem is Bendix gear will engage the flywheel but will not turn it. starter shaft continues to spin and the Bendix gear gets hot in a few seconds. does not appear to be an electrical problem. cables are good, batt fully charged. basically, the Bendix gear shoots up the shaft, engages the flywheel ring but will not turn the flywheel, yet the starter shaft continues to spin and heats the Bendix gear.	Excellent! I already flipped the boat and spent an great deal of time cleaning and checking the Rivets and Not a bad one or even one wiggle so it looks like were in great shape there... (the boat was owned by a woman) so that may explain why there are no dents or "popped" rivets .... they are not like us guys "why sure I can go there..." woops just hit something.... And thanks for warning me off about pressure treated wood because that was on my list to go get ... So now before I re-floor I need to order some of that gluvit and get er done. Doing this boat like I stated before has been a total blast with only one thing worrying me about it all ...... when its done I'm going to want to do another one.... and that is trouble. Soon as I can I will post pictures of the "project" and Thanks a grand for the information!
Human: just completed the rebuild of our '83, 40 hp merc outboard. can turn crank with wrench on flywheel. Starter will engage but will not turn the flywheel. works fine on the bench and solenoid seems ok. turned the motor fine before we rebuilt it. Seems like it lacks torque to turn the rebuilt motor. would a repair kit help? Assistant:	It is time to send the starter for repairs or a new one.	It is time to send the starter for repairs or a new one.	IT can be either way...typically, when we describe composite structures at work, 'core' is typically a structural component of the assembly used to improve stiffness while saving weight. We use 'form' for the supporting structures used to make the composite structure without becoming an integral part of it. The stringers on my fishing boat are hollow fiberglass rectangles, with the layup ~ 1/4" thick...
Human: There is a smaller diameter purple with white striped wire with a push on rubber cap that has disconnected form one of the terminals on theback of my altenator. Can someone explain what it does and which terminal it gets pushed back on ?? Thanks Assistant:	http://ebasicpower.com/charge/alternatorwiring.htm Maybe this will help you need to wait for the black gearbox guys?	http://ebasicpower.com/charge/alternatorwiring.htm Maybe this will help you need to wait for the black gearbox guys?	rule of thump for a properly running 2 stroke at wot...10% of horse power per hour...a 55 should use 5.5 gallons per hour.. forget saving any gas money going to a 4 stroke....a 4 stroke rated at 6k rpm and run at 5.5k rpm is a gas hog..to get any kind of efficiency out of a 4 stroke it needs to be run at 4k or 4.5k...and then its no better than a 2 stroke..salesmen lie... keep in mind another thing..a 2 stroke engine is built to run at top end or near it..and if it is maintained it will do it for many years...I am currently running a 4stroke and if I did that I would have a pile of expensive junk in 3 years..just my opinion on this last statement...
Human: There is a smaller diameter purple with white striped wire with a push on rubber cap that has disconnected form one of the terminals on theback of my altenator. Can someone explain what it does and which terminal it gets pushed back on ?? Thanks Assistant:	Purple almost always has to do with ignition, what is the instruments tells you when you start the engine, is the tac working, is it charging, how many empty spots do you have in the back of the alternator that will fit that connection?	Purple almost always has to do with ignition, what is the instruments tells you when you start the engine, is the tac working, is it charging, how many empty spots do you have in the back of the alternator that will fit that connection?	Ayuh,...... It sounds like the shift switch on the shift plate where the upper, 'n lower shift cables meet, is disconnected,..... Probably to hide the symptoms of a failin' lower shift cable,..... Btw,..... This should be posted in the Mercruiser forum,.....
Human: There is a smaller diameter purple with white striped wire with a push on rubber cap that has disconnected form one of the terminals on theback of my altenator. Can someone explain what it does and which terminal it gets pushed back on ?? Thanks Assistant:	Engine's not running yet but I think there is onyt one place it makes sense to connect it to and its probably for the tach, especially since its just a push on connector .	Engine's not running yet but I think there is onyt one place it makes sense to connect it to and its probably for the tach, especially since its just a push on connector .	As it turns out, I have to remove or atleast spread the bracket on the tilt tube as well. Problem solved.
Human: Bought my first boat 2 years ago. It is a 1982 16' starcraft with 1982 70hp merc. [FONT=verdana, geneva]First year of owning it I did a top end (bored cylinders, new pistons, seals, etc.) With that came a new stator and rectifier.(battery never charged and stator had corroded wires).[/FONT] After that, boat ran great but still would not charge. Tested the new rectifier after running and it had gone bad. Put a new one in and ran the boat at the dock with just the starter cables to the battery. It charged at idle and just above idle. Ran the boat the next day (now with trim hooked up to battery). 2 hours later, I checked my battery charge- 12.5V. Tested the rectifier, it failed. Battery is a 12V Everstart Marine 24MS-6 ( 625 marine cranking amps) Rectifier positive wire doesn't seem to be shorting to ground. Battery cables to/from starter and trim all seem to have good continuity and not shorting. Trim works fine, however, there is no position switch at the upper limit of tilt travel and lower limit of trim. I usually just go by sound *when the hydraulic motor starts working hard I stop. Could this cause the rectifier to fail? Also: having ran the engine with a failed rectifier, should I expect a bad stator too? Assistant:	Where is the rectifier located at	Where is the rectifier located at	Question to Racerone and/or Classicaq (obviously guys with great expertise) about the above procedure. I am just a weekend boater learning how to service my outboard, but have informally heard that it is convenient to put the outboard into gear before dropping the lower leg. The reason stated was that, when you re-install the lower leg and push the drive shaft back up, it's splines have to mesh with the female splines in the top unit. If they are slightly off, the shaft won't go up, so if the unit was left in gear, it is convenient to just jiggle the prop while pushing up and the splines would mesh. Is there any merit in that approach, or alternatively, any disadvantage?
Human: Bought my first boat 2 years ago. It is a 1982 16' starcraft with 1982 70hp merc. [FONT=verdana, geneva]First year of owning it I did a top end (bored cylinders, new pistons, seals, etc.) With that came a new stator and rectifier.(battery never charged and stator had corroded wires).[/FONT] After that, boat ran great but still would not charge. Tested the new rectifier after running and it had gone bad. Put a new one in and ran the boat at the dock with just the starter cables to the battery. It charged at idle and just above idle. Ran the boat the next day (now with trim hooked up to battery). 2 hours later, I checked my battery charge- 12.5V. Tested the rectifier, it failed. Battery is a 12V Everstart Marine 24MS-6 ( 625 marine cranking amps) Rectifier positive wire doesn't seem to be shorting to ground. Battery cables to/from starter and trim all seem to have good continuity and not shorting. Trim works fine, however, there is no position switch at the upper limit of tilt travel and lower limit of trim. I usually just go by sound *when the hydraulic motor starts working hard I stop. Could this cause the rectifier to fail? Also: having ran the engine with a failed rectifier, should I expect a bad stator too? Assistant:	It's located on the right side of the engine beside the switchbox.	It's located on the right side of the engine beside the switchbox.	Question to Racerone and/or Classicaq (obviously guys with great expertise) about the above procedure. I am just a weekend boater learning how to service my outboard, but have informally heard that it is convenient to put the outboard into gear before dropping the lower leg. The reason stated was that, when you re-install the lower leg and push the drive shaft back up, it's splines have to mesh with the female splines in the top unit. If they are slightly off, the shaft won't go up, so if the unit was left in gear, it is convenient to just jiggle the prop while pushing up and the splines would mesh. Is there any merit in that approach, or alternatively, any disadvantage?
Human: I have a Searay 215 w/ Mercruiser 5.0 Was on water and shut off engine then tried to start and no electric power except radio. Jiggled every wire I could find and no resolve. Once under tow the engine started and ran fine. Also another time docked boat and shut down to rinse. Tried to start and nothing. The next morning dock crew started boat with no issues. I have checked all grounds and connections in engine compartment and behind dash. Checked battery connections and fuses I can find. It is very intermittent and sometimes seems to fix itself. Any ideas? Assistant:	Could possibly be vapor lock in the fuel lines. I suggest that you post this question on the Mercruiser forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page. Click on "Forum Home", and scroll down to Mercruiser forum.	Could possibly be vapor lock in the fuel lines. I suggest that you post this question on the Mercruiser forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page. Click on "Forum Home", and scroll down to Mercruiser forum.	Well I had put new wires in and installed the new switch panel, everything worked for a few minutes. Then all of a sudden it just quit. They were all getting power after everything stopped. Checked with a multimeter, as everything was working I had cut the old wires out, to save myself a headache of trying to figure what each one was for. They were different colors then the ones that werr plugged into the switch panel, and everything was still attached. I'm sure it's just a cheap $50 switch panel with crappy fuses tjat blew.. Really wish one of y'all lived here in GA I'd pay someone other then a boat shop to re-wire it
Human: I have a Searay 215 w/ Mercruiser 5.0 Was on water and shut off engine then tried to start and no electric power except radio. Jiggled every wire I could find and no resolve. Once under tow the engine started and ran fine. Also another time docked boat and shut down to rinse. Tried to start and nothing. The next morning dock crew started boat with no issues. I have checked all grounds and connections in engine compartment and behind dash. Checked battery connections and fuses I can find. It is very intermittent and sometimes seems to fix itself. Any ideas? Assistant:	You have to start an electrical trouble shooting act, get an electrical meter, your explanation sounds like a total lost of power coming from the battery, make sure the battery cable B+ is carrying power to your switch and the block behind the dash, I will take a close look at your batteries cables both + and -	You have to start an electrical trouble shooting act, get an electrical meter, your explanation sounds like a total lost of power coming from the battery, make sure the battery cable B+ is carrying power to your switch and the block behind the dash, I will take a close look at your batteries cables both + and -	Ok I will tomorrow when I can see and the serial number is 1675174 I hope that's the one because that's only number I see on the boat and and what do the coils look like
Human: I have a Searay 215 w/ Mercruiser 5.0 Was on water and shut off engine then tried to start and no electric power except radio. Jiggled every wire I could find and no resolve. Once under tow the engine started and ran fine. Also another time docked boat and shut down to rinse. Tried to start and nothing. The next morning dock crew started boat with no issues. I have checked all grounds and connections in engine compartment and behind dash. Checked battery connections and fuses I can find. It is very intermittent and sometimes seems to fix itself. Any ideas? Assistant:	I'm not familiar with your exact set up. I had a time where I was at the fuel dock and I was ready to leave, but one engine wouldn't start - the starter solenoid didn't even click. Turns out the gear control lever was not exactly in neutral. Could it be something like that on yours?	I'm not familiar with your exact set up. I had a time where I was at the fuel dock and I was ready to leave, but one engine wouldn't start - the starter solenoid didn't even click. Turns out the gear control lever was not exactly in neutral. Could it be something like that on yours?	There is 4 terminals coming from the relay, 1 for negative, 1 for active from the battery, 2 to tilt trim motor. then there is 4 wires going into relay that comes from switch. the new genuine one is ordered i will just stick with it at this stage. I am lucky it wasnt the tilt/trim motor that was burnt out. 900$ for them.
Human: I have a Searay 215 w/ Mercruiser 5.0 Was on water and shut off engine then tried to start and no electric power except radio. Jiggled every wire I could find and no resolve. Once under tow the engine started and ran fine. Also another time docked boat and shut down to rinse. Tried to start and nothing. The next morning dock crew started boat with no issues. I have checked all grounds and connections in engine compartment and behind dash. Checked battery connections and fuses I can find. It is very intermittent and sometimes seems to fix itself. Any ideas? Assistant:	If it's not cranking at all, I misunderstood your initial post - forget my previous reply - it's not vapor lock. Still suggest that you post on the Mercruiser forum. Somewhere on that engine there is a neutral safety switch. If shifter is not in neutral, it will not allow it to crank. Typically, is is near the throttle linkage where the shift cable connects to a cam. It's a simple switch. Check & clean connections. Pull switch and test it. Work switch a bunch of times to clean the internal contacts.	If it's not cranking at all, I misunderstood your initial post - forget my previous reply - it's not vapor lock. Still suggest that you post on the Mercruiser forum. Somewhere on that engine there is a neutral safety switch. If shifter is not in neutral, it will not allow it to crank. Typically, is is near the throttle linkage where the shift cable connects to a cam. It's a simple switch. Check & clean connections. Pull switch and test it. Work switch a bunch of times to clean the internal contacts.	thanks again ,,will try that forum too ,ill try all i can
Human: 1999 Merc. 50, boat had no guages , I installed a sierra eclipse tach and a tach harness from my controls, hooked purple to +, gray to sig. and ran a wire from my ground bus to the- . Blk from harness will not test with meter so i assume it is not hooked up somewhere. the tach is set on 6p. went to lake today first time since install, and nothing, like not even hooked up. any ideas thanks for the help. Assistant:	It sounds like you follow the instructions, check your ground.	It sounds like you follow the instructions, check your ground.	ED: I think you've interpreted what I said without accounting for the rest of the circuitry in the gauge. Its been a long time since I've experimented with a gauge so here's what I remember. The +12VDC going to the gauge is the supply. Since it makes a commplete electric circuit, it needs a ground path - not only back to the battery but the sending unit too. Most of them work as current sources and by sensing the change in the sender's resistance, they show the units the gauge is calibrated in. In other words, It is very possible to mmeasure a fixed voltage on the S terminal of the gauge. If you want to test the GAUGE, supply its power (Key ON) and with the sender wire disconnected, clip a variable resistor (500 ohms is plenty) between S and GND and twist the resistor. If the gauge tracks, the gauge is fine. Similar thing can be done on a float driven sending unit. If the sending unit's output, measured with an ohm meter, varies with float position, then it is functioning. All that would be let is the interconnects. (Usually most builders assume a ground connection, thru an indirect path. Unfortuantely, it usually degrades as the boat ages.)
Human: When trolling motor is set to #3 on the power level 1 through 10 being options graph show screen interference. The desired power level for bottom watching with a live bait drift, depth near 25 feet. Trolling motor minn Kota Trevor foot control is on its own battery by its self graph gets its power off power off fused power strip. no pumps are anything is on sensitifity on graph doesn't make a difference. Till it's turned completely off then I can't get a structure read but do get the bottom read without interference cord to trolling motor cord not near any part of graph wire ing. It's like the distortion is a result of the spin of the prop on the TM. Had this combination for years I guide so it's used daily any thoughts Assistant:	the interference is caused by a/c voltage created by electric trolling motor.I think a condenser can be installed where 12volt connection is.	the interference is caused by a/c voltage created by electric trolling motor.I think a condenser can be installed where 12volt connection is.	On another Board a member said it might be a JIS screw, and I think it is, as the machine was Made in Japan. Looking at the illustration AND the engine (see OP pic), it dawns on me that in order to remove #31, part #24 MUST first slide to the right, as there is insufficient space to the left of #31 to remove it. THAT consideration creates the problem of removing TWO MORE 5mm screws from #24 (see OP pic). These additional screws are beneath the working, and heretofore never removed carburetor, which I had no though of removing for this plastic part R&R...I'm screwed. In this DIY instance, there is NO WONDER that MECHANIC'S LABOR in Dealer or Shop time is 50%, or more, of the repair cost. Perhaps though, for my own sanity, I should take this to a Dealer or shop and let them find the way home...
Human: When trolling motor is set to #3 on the power level 1 through 10 being options graph show screen interference. The desired power level for bottom watching with a live bait drift, depth near 25 feet. Trolling motor minn Kota Trevor foot control is on its own battery by its self graph gets its power off power off fused power strip. no pumps are anything is on sensitifity on graph doesn't make a difference. Till it's turned completely off then I can't get a structure read but do get the bottom read without interference cord to trolling motor cord not near any part of graph wire ing. It's like the distortion is a result of the spin of the prop on the TM. Had this combination for years I guide so it's used daily any thoughts Assistant:	both of these are swags but first I would check and make sure all battery connections are good...2nd I would not overlopk the possibility of water in the trolling motor or a bad connection in it.. is this a metal boat?	both of these are swags but first I would check and make sure all battery connections are good...2nd I would not overlopk the possibility of water in the trolling motor or a bad connection in it.. is this a metal boat?	Did you check the fluid with the unit all the way up? What kind of fluid did you ad if any?any leaks?
Human: I want to wire a switch so I can turn the power off to my depth finder. It is currently wired for power with positive and ground wires connected. A simple switch appears to have two posts. What connections do I make to include a switch. Cut both my wires positive and negative and connect to switch posts coming and going back out?? I must be missing something simple here!!! Thanks Assistant:	cut the positive(+12v) and wire it to the two sides of the switch...	cut the positive(+12v) and wire it to the two sides of the switch...	boscoe said: Thanks for sharing. Click to expand... Couldn't have replied any better
Human: I want to wire a switch so I can turn the power off to my depth finder. It is currently wired for power with positive and ground wires connected. A simple switch appears to have two posts. What connections do I make to include a switch. Cut both my wires positive and negative and connect to switch posts coming and going back out?? I must be missing something simple here!!! Thanks Assistant:	Thanks for that ....... an newbe marine guy can save a lot of money with the support received on this site. Chris	Thanks for that ....... an newbe marine guy can save a lot of money with the support received on this site. Chris	use starboard no painting durable....latex is way wrong for marine application. Mike
Human: I want to wire a switch so I can turn the power off to my depth finder. It is currently wired for power with positive and ground wires connected. A simple switch appears to have two posts. What connections do I make to include a switch. Cut both my wires positive and negative and connect to switch posts coming and going back out?? I must be missing something simple here!!! Thanks Assistant:	Make sure there is a fuse between the switch and the battery. The reason for these forums is to keep us safe out on the water saving money is just a bonus!	Make sure there is a fuse between the switch and the battery. The reason for these forums is to keep us safe out on the water saving money is just a bonus!	i had no spark condition on my 02 150 txrz . it turned out to be the master power solenoid.
Human: I want to wire a switch so I can turn the power off to my depth finder. It is currently wired for power with positive and ground wires connected. A simple switch appears to have two posts. What connections do I make to include a switch. Cut both my wires positive and negative and connect to switch posts coming and going back out?? I must be missing something simple here!!! Thanks Assistant:	Totally true ... thanks for that reminder!!	Totally true ... thanks for that reminder!!	What year is the Evinrude ?----Model # is ?----No doubt used in salty water I think.-----Some heat on pivot shaft and greasing fittings may help.
Human: I want to wire a switch so I can turn the power off to my depth finder. It is currently wired for power with positive and ground wires connected. A simple switch appears to have two posts. What connections do I make to include a switch. Cut both my wires positive and negative and connect to switch posts coming and going back out?? I must be missing something simple here!!! Thanks Assistant:	an inline fuse should go in the positive lead...cheap on amazon...I don't run a switch...I rely on the switch on the unit...if I forget to turn it off with that switch I will forget the 2nd one also...	an inline fuse should go in the positive lead...cheap on amazon...I don't run a switch...I rely on the switch on the unit...if I forget to turn it off with that switch I will forget the 2nd one also...	You can do it on the trailer. Should take about 5 minutes. The longer the better. Use a small plastic gas can to mix your gas and oil.
Human: I want to wire a switch so I can turn the power off to my depth finder. It is currently wired for power with positive and ground wires connected. A simple switch appears to have two posts. What connections do I make to include a switch. Cut both my wires positive and negative and connect to switch posts coming and going back out?? I must be missing something simple here!!! Thanks Assistant:	Modern electronics are best to turn off by the unit's power bottom, that will allow the unit to go through its shutdown proses rather than cutting the power abruptly, you can install a secondary switch to cut off power to the unit after it is off.	Modern electronics are best to turn off by the unit's power bottom, that will allow the unit to go through its shutdown proses rather than cutting the power abruptly, you can install a secondary switch to cut off power to the unit after it is off.	Galvanizing is a zinc coating that protects the steel from rusting too quick.-------Look up the term " galvanic cell " if you must and learn about this.------------I would be very carefull and ask questions before rushing out and using paint on these pontoons.
Human: I want to wire a switch so I can turn the power off to my depth finder. It is currently wired for power with positive and ground wires connected. A simple switch appears to have two posts. What connections do I make to include a switch. Cut both my wires positive and negative and connect to switch posts coming and going back out?? I must be missing something simple here!!! Thanks Assistant:	johnnyG here Ihave a degree in electronics and gotsea is spot on!!	johnnyG here Ihave a degree in electronics and gotsea is spot on!!	Chasing wires today and my alarm made a little noise narrowed it down and the alarm is going off full time when I fix the broken wire. Means safe mode from what I've read. Alarm on with key on engine off. Maybe this will help with diagnosis. Again thanks for help
Human: I want to wire a switch so I can turn the power off to my depth finder. It is currently wired for power with positive and ground wires connected. A simple switch appears to have two posts. What connections do I make to include a switch. Cut both my wires positive and negative and connect to switch posts coming and going back out?? I must be missing something simple here!!! Thanks Assistant:	put the inline fuse (if you use one) close to the battery...	put the inline fuse (if you use one) close to the battery...	BAS said: I have not pulled the carbs yet for a cleaning. wanted input before doing surgery. Click to expand... I'm thinking you've got debris clogging 1 or more jets in 1 or more of your carbs. You've got good compression and good spark. The 3rd out of 3 systems left to troubleshoot is the fuel system. Which ironically, accounts for 90% of all outboard issues. Pull carbs, pull jets, thoroughly clean so when you hold the jet up to the light you can see through it. Verify spec height of floats, as well as test that floats are not damaged (leaking).
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	If you are running the ground wire directly from the battery use 10 AWG as a minimum. 8 AWG is better. Be sure to use only marine grade (tinned) stranded wire. You can buy it online from West Marine or Jamestowne Distributors, among others. They have a variety of colors. However, you should use black for the ground wire. At the battery, make sure that you are nylon lock nuts on the terminals, NOT wing nuts.	If you are running the ground wire directly from the battery use 10 AWG as a minimum. 8 AWG is better. Be sure to use only marine grade (tinned) stranded wire. You can buy it online from West Marine or Jamestowne Distributors, among others. They have a variety of colors. However, you should use black for the ground wire. At the battery, make sure that you are nylon lock nuts on the terminals, NOT wing nuts.	Bondo is correct. However, if I had another stern drive, I sure would like to know my trim angle on the gauge. So, when your boating season is over, I would recommend re-wiring the whole tilt/trim system.
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	Patience is the key to working on old boat wiring...the first thing to determine is exactly what you have and how it is wired..especially if there has been additions to the original..make a little drawing of the wiring as you determine how its wired and make sure you understand it...a multi meter and ability to use it is another key point... if you don't understand how it is wired and replace all the switches etc and then have problems then you have another real mess on your hands...at this point you will HAVE to figure out what you got...keep in mind that you could also have bad components in an old boat and the switch and wiring for the device could be good..thats another area where the meter is required... most boats were built with wiring as an afterthought and the connections are crimped..they are notorious for corrosion and bad connections..also where the small connections on gauges and switches are made they just crimp the connectors on..with time and expansion and heat they become bad... there is nothing wrong with crimping if its done right with the proper tool and connectors but you will be lucky if that is the case.. when digging into the wiring under the console I would have the battery disconnected unless I was at the measuring voltage point.in the trouble shooting procedure.. keep in mind that if a good wire was used in the original wiring that the wires themselves are probably..... good luck and try not too get frustrated...	Patience is the key to working on old boat wiring...the first thing to determine is exactly what you have and how it is wired..especially if there has been additions to the original..make a little drawing of the wiring as you determine how its wired and make sure you understand it...a multi meter and ability to use it is another key point... if you don't understand how it is wired and replace all the switches etc and then have problems then you have another real mess on your hands...at this point you will HAVE to figure out what you got...keep in mind that you could also have bad components in an old boat and the switch and wiring for the device could be good..thats another area where the meter is required... most boats were built with wiring as an afterthought and the connections are crimped..they are notorious for corrosion and bad connections..also where the small connections on gauges and switches are made they just crimp the connectors on..with time and expansion and heat they become bad... there is nothing wrong with crimping if its done right with the proper tool and connectors but you will be lucky if that is the case.. when digging into the wiring under the console I would have the battery disconnected unless I was at the measuring voltage point.in the trouble shooting procedure.. keep in mind that if a good wire was used in the original wiring that the wires themselves are probably..... good luck and try not too get frustrated...	I agree,very good motors
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	keep in mind that if a good wire was used in the original wiring that the wires themselves are probably ok.....	keep in mind that if a good wire was used in the original wiring that the wires themselves are probably ok.....	Chris79 said: Still running like a dream Gary. Around 10 hrs use now. I emailed a technical advice guy in the US about it (sells performance parts for outboards) and his response was.. "One thing is for sure, you will not damage either the ECU or any other part. Maximum you will detect flat spot when throttling or throttle response will spoil if the air is too much." Thats as far as Ive gotten with info since last post, but someone has told me the ECU can be re-programmed with the 60HP data. Can't confirm this and dont really think it will make much difference. The restrictor is staying out of my engine. Click to expand... couple of questions for you. did you shim when you took out the restricter plate and how is your idle quality. i have a 50 hp efi bigfoot and i put a 60 ecu in it with no change. just need some ideas to make it a 60.
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	Yeah definitely gonna take some patience. I needed to replace the switches whether they were the issue or not, I say that because the rocker switches, well the switch itself on two have broken off. Nowhere to be found. This boat say for two years outside under a canopy. Anyway, like I said before, the grounding wires that go to the bus bar, (power switch, navigation and bilge pump switch) are nowhere to be found. I've been looking before but I cannot for the life of me find where they are grounded at. Have to be somewhere for it to work IMO. It's not going to be grounded to the battery, unless that's where these other switches are grounded at, but it will go the bus bar. Might be cheaper to do just the battery though. And yes I don't use wing nuts.	Yeah definitely gonna take some patience. I needed to replace the switches whether they were the issue or not, I say that because the rocker switches, well the switch itself on two have broken off. Nowhere to be found. This boat say for two years outside under a canopy. Anyway, like I said before, the grounding wires that go to the bus bar, (power switch, navigation and bilge pump switch) are nowhere to be found. I've been looking before but I cannot for the life of me find where they are grounded at. Have to be somewhere for it to work IMO. It's not going to be grounded to the battery, unless that's where these other switches are grounded at, but it will go the bus bar. Might be cheaper to do just the battery though. And yes I don't use wing nuts.	Before you chase your tail on a fuel issue......... You will need to check for spark when this condition happens again. Verify ignition spark, if you have ignition then you have a fuel/heat issue.
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	Papyson is giving good advice. On a boat 12 V system, a ground is a ground, whether it comes off the battery, or the engine block, or any place else. It is the return pipe for all of those electrons to get back to the battery. Typically there will be a ground wire from the battery negative post that finds its way to the helm console. When I rewired my own boat I ran an 8 AWG ground wire straight from the battery to a distribution bus under the console. I ran an 8 AWG positive wire from the battery switch to another bus under the console. From those two buses, I connected all of my equipment - VHF, MAP/GPS, digital depth finder, nav lights and running lights, gauges, etc. etc. The signal wires for the gauges will come off of the wiring harness from the motor (except for the fuel tank signal and the speed petit tube.) This set up assures that when you turn off the battery switch, everything is turned off (except the bilge pump, which is wired separately.) That Sprint 277 looks like it likely has a pretty simple wiring scheme. So personally, if I were in your position, I would go ahead and rewire the whole thing with new wire and new connectors - at least new connectors. That way, you know everything in there - where each wire comes from and where each goes. Where a wire comes into either one of the two busses, label what it is. I use these little string tags that you can write on. That way, when you need to troubleshoot an electrical problem (which you inevitably will) you can easily identify what wires you need to be dealing with.	Papyson is giving good advice. On a boat 12 V system, a ground is a ground, whether it comes off the battery, or the engine block, or any place else. It is the return pipe for all of those electrons to get back to the battery. Typically there will be a ground wire from the battery negative post that finds its way to the helm console. When I rewired my own boat I ran an 8 AWG ground wire straight from the battery to a distribution bus under the console. I ran an 8 AWG positive wire from the battery switch to another bus under the console. From those two buses, I connected all of my equipment - VHF, MAP/GPS, digital depth finder, nav lights and running lights, gauges, etc. etc. The signal wires for the gauges will come off of the wiring harness from the motor (except for the fuel tank signal and the speed petit tube.) This set up assures that when you turn off the battery switch, everything is turned off (except the bilge pump, which is wired separately.) That Sprint 277 looks like it likely has a pretty simple wiring scheme. So personally, if I were in your position, I would go ahead and rewire the whole thing with new wire and new connectors - at least new connectors. That way, you know everything in there - where each wire comes from and where each goes. Where a wire comes into either one of the two busses, label what it is. I use these little string tags that you can write on. That way, when you need to troubleshoot an electrical problem (which you inevitably will) you can easily identify what wires you need to be dealing with.	After you check the Tale tail for a blockage, (Just a guess) Toss out the rectangular muffs you are using and get the cheap round ones. For somereason (shape of lower housing) They are not Yamaha friendly. Did you have the lock ring on top of your water pump impeller?
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	Did you look it up online the wiring scheme for the boat? Only ask cause it should be easier then it looks. This boat has been modified from the way it used to be wired. Only say that cause wires are missing, broken, leading to nowhere, old wires are still sitting in the boat. Like the old trolling motor cables, the on board battery charger, the front running lights, the copper wires were completely black so they fried..	Did you look it up online the wiring scheme for the boat? Only ask cause it should be easier then it looks. This boat has been modified from the way it used to be wired. Only say that cause wires are missing, broken, leading to nowhere, old wires are still sitting in the boat. Like the old trolling motor cables, the on board battery charger, the front running lights, the copper wires were completely black so they fried..	See if this helps you out...
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	When I'm connecting the ground wires, or the negative ones, if I'd rather hook it upto battery, it would go to the cranking battery right?	When I'm connecting the ground wires, or the negative ones, if I'd rather hook it upto battery, it would go to the cranking battery right?	When you "cleaned carbs"...describe what you did to clean.
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	Assuming that you have two batteries and they are wired to a battery selector switch with positions on the switch of OFF, 1, BOTH, and 2, then the negative posts of the batteries are NORMALLY connected to each other, and the ground wire to the engine comes off the cranking battery, so it really doesn't matter. But as a matter of convention, the negative wire from the console instruments and equipment is normally wired to the "house" battery (#2 position on the selector switch), not the cranking battery. Newer boats are typically wired a bit differently, allowing total isolation of the two battery banks for charging them separately.	Assuming that you have two batteries and they are wired to a battery selector switch with positions on the switch of OFF, 1, BOTH, and 2, then the negative posts of the batteries are NORMALLY connected to each other, and the ground wire to the engine comes off the cranking battery, so it really doesn't matter. But as a matter of convention, the negative wire from the console instruments and equipment is normally wired to the "house" battery (#2 position on the selector switch), not the cranking battery. Newer boats are typically wired a bit differently, allowing total isolation of the two battery banks for charging them separately.	OK. Lets say there is stage 0 (OFF), Stage 1 (Stern Light (light pole), and Stage 2 (Bow light(red/green) and stern light). I can see uses of the stern light for fishing at night when anchored. That does not require the bow light, just the stern light/light pole. That use does not require gauges, as the motor is off. So gauge lights would not be necessary, would they? Stage 2 needs the bow light, stern light and gauges, as this is intended for travelling at night. Am I missing or misunderstanding something you said, in your relatively short answer?
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	I actually have 3. (24 volt trolling motor) two trolling, and then the cranking. And sadly I don't have a battery selector switch, not yet at least.	I actually have 3. (24 volt trolling motor) two trolling, and then the cranking. And sadly I don't have a battery selector switch, not yet at least.	I'll jump in on this thread, too, having purchased a lemon or two over the last 50 years. First, try to find an owners/operators manual. That will give you the maintenance procedures and fluid specifics, which you should closely follow. The heat exchanger concept is very solid in that it keeps sea water from corroding the block of the engine. You likely will have two water pumps- one to circulate the treated coolant through the block and head, and the other to circulate sea water through the exhaust system. The raw cooling water is drawn into the engine through a large hose from the out drive. That hose and its connections need to be checked often. The failure of that hose is responsible for the vast majority of I/O sinkings. The good news is that if the engine does give up the ghost in the future, if is not that difficult to change out with a better engine - new or rebuilt. One other thing, I do not think it is wise to try to adopt an automotive alternator to a marine engine. Marine certified alternators are specifically designed to suppress any sparks that could ignite fumes in your bilge. And that brings up one other thing - be absolutely religious about turning on and running for at least a minute the bilge blowers before trying to start the engine.
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	You do not want to charge the 24v batteries with the motor. The ignition switch and bilge pump are normally separate from the accy circuit. switch the guages from the ignition switch and run the lights and accessories from a dedicated accy circuit. If you have to pull two wires from the start battery 8g tinned wire to the fuse block. Put a inline fuse at the battery positive to the accy switch for the fuse block. You can never have too many fuses so fuse all the accys individually and put a light for accy power on the dash so you dont leave it on by mistake.	You do not want to charge the 24v batteries with the motor. The ignition switch and bilge pump are normally separate from the accy circuit. switch the guages from the ignition switch and run the lights and accessories from a dedicated accy circuit. If you have to pull two wires from the start battery 8g tinned wire to the fuse block. Put a inline fuse at the battery positive to the accy switch for the fuse block. You can never have too many fuses so fuse all the accys individually and put a light for accy power on the dash so you dont leave it on by mistake.	isc valve may be stuck closed, it is part of the throttle & body easily tested with ydis. Does the engine stay running with a little throttle? To check the fuel pressure you need an adapter that clips onto the top of the rail.
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	Yeah The old switches started giving out, I turned the power switch off and the light was off, come back 10 minutes later and notice with the switch off and light still on, so i flipped it back on and off again and the light went away. Go home and get up the next morning and notice light was back on and battery was pretty low... Thanks for the input everyone! Been dealing wiTh more expensive issues on the boat, hopefully I'm done for a little while cause my wallet has about had it. Supposed to be cool tomorrow and Thursday so if I get off work early enough I'll hop on it!	Yeah The old switches started giving out, I turned the power switch off and the light was off, come back 10 minutes later and notice with the switch off and light still on, so i flipped it back on and off again and the light went away. Go home and get up the next morning and notice light was back on and battery was pretty low... Thanks for the input everyone! Been dealing wiTh more expensive issues on the boat, hopefully I'm done for a little while cause my wallet has about had it. Supposed to be cool tomorrow and Thursday so if I get off work early enough I'll hop on it!	el3bgames, Advertising on this website is not welcome or condoned !
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	Just take your time going through it you dont want a wire fire out on the water no where to run. Wiring is relatively cheap but can be time consuming if done properly. Fuse everything!	Just take your time going through it you dont want a wire fire out on the water no where to run. Wiring is relatively cheap but can be time consuming if done properly. Fuse everything!	???-----Will spark jump a gap of 1 cm yes or no ?
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	The best way to deal with a 19 year old boat electrical problems is to start from scratch, new over old doesn't work, otherwise you will be dealing with electrical issues for the rest your ownership, not difficult to do, I have done three (mine, and two friends) some teen years ago and not a problem, your rocker switches should be fix to a removable dash make the wiring outside then install as one unit, jump the + of all switches with 14g the use a single 10g to power it from the B+ block under the console, look up marine wiring code so you will have different color codes for every accessory, easy to find at the other end and easy to troubleshoot, you can make your harness out side and thread it as one.	The best way to deal with a 19 year old boat electrical problems is to start from scratch, new over old doesn't work, otherwise you will be dealing with electrical issues for the rest your ownership, not difficult to do, I have done three (mine, and two friends) some teen years ago and not a problem, your rocker switches should be fix to a removable dash make the wiring outside then install as one unit, jump the + of all switches with 14g the use a single 10g to power it from the B+ block under the console, look up marine wiring code so you will have different color codes for every accessory, easy to find at the other end and easy to troubleshoot, you can make your harness out side and thread it as one.	Thanks ClassicAQ. Just for the record, My other boat is an Aquaspot 201 with a 209 yamaha. I was thinking the same thing. It has a Marpac analog tach set on the 4 pole setting. Manual sez it is a six pole but at idle, 6 pole is about 400 rpm higher and I know it aint at 1200 rpm idle. 4 pole seems right. That said the speed is is off by 6-8mph which regardless what the tach sez, is lower than normal or at least what was
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	Here's a question, I've been dealing with motor problems so I had to put wiring on hold, if I replace the rocker switches, the old ones have 3 male connectors, but the new ones only have two, how would I connect the old with the new if I'm short a connection?	Here's a question, I've been dealing with motor problems so I had to put wiring on hold, if I replace the rocker switches, the old ones have 3 male connectors, but the new ones only have two, how would I connect the old with the new if I'm short a connection?	''Disconected lead to ground 0''....do you mean no reading(infinity) or zero ohms? if infinity then disconnect the wires to the pick of the starter solenoid..then disconnect and separate the wires at the positive post of the solenoid.. with these wires disconnected what is the reading with the meter leads in the same place..(with the switch to start)_ the pick is the small terminals on the solenoid,....when the start switch is off the kill switch is connected to the power pack and grounds it to kill the engine..when it is on this line is floating...when it goes to start then 12 volts are supplied to the pick of the solenoid..what we are doing is isolating each positive wire in the starter area...one of these wires will also feed other areas with 12 volts...there is a possibility that the regulator is the culpit...this is one of those wires..i am operating without a wiring diagram so if anyone wants to step in feel welcome...
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	The rocker switches were 3 pronged, but now I have 2 pronged toggle switches, will these even work?	The rocker switches were 3 pronged, but now I have 2 pronged toggle switches, will these even work?	Sorry about the no model/year(rookie mistake) 2005 200hp. SX200TXRD You pretty much answered my question. The algae is from moisture(mold). IF??? the boat sets for long periods and the condensation forms the oil grows mold/algae. The mold is heavier than the oil and in the early stages it's small enough to go from one tank to another and then when the boat is used the oil is agitated and then it tries to flow and the build up flows into the pump and lines blocking it off. The tank is full and can't tell it's blocked and POW engine failure.
Human: I have my Papaws 1997 sprint 277 f/s boat. The wiring is a nightmare. 3 Out of 5 rocker switches work, the ones connected the grounding bus bar are the accessories, and the horn, the horns the only one that works of the two. The navigation/aerator, the bilge, and the power switch are not connected to the bus bar, but the power and bilge work fine.. The navigation switch no matter what won't turn off. Not unless you unplug it completely. I just bought a wholw new rocker switch set, cause just replacing the switch itself didn't work at all. Figured it was all just from blown fuses and bad grounding. Anyone know where i can buy good/stromg enough wire to ground it to the bus bar? What gauge? Does it have to be black? I'm not good with electronics but I ain't payin a shop out the ass to fix it, not yet at least. Assistant:	Two wires or three wire to the switch? It depends on what the switch is for.	Two wires or three wire to the switch? It depends on what the switch is for.	Sounds like air in the master cylinder. Call your local u-haul and see if you can get their mechanic to bleed it for you?