qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
18,639 | I recently got a KP3S Kingroon 3D printer and have been trying to set it up.
After a couple of test prints, the Y-axis seems to only move in one direction. At first, I thought it was a motor issue, but when I go into the manual move directions for the Y-axis it seems that both inputs lead to the motor spinning in the same direction.
We have ruled out endstops as a possible issue. I think it might be a hardware issue but lack the skills to confirm the exact issue.
```
Send:17:40:57.724: @moveRel Y10.00
Send:17:40:57.724: N31 G1 Y10.00 F6000
Send:17:40:57.728: @updatePrinterState
Send:17:41:00.824: @moveRel Y-10.00
Send:17:41:00.824: N35 G1 Y0.00 F6000
Send:17:41:00.828: @updatePrinterState
Send:17:41:07.445: @moveRel Y10.00
Send:17:41:07.445: N43 G1 Y10.00 F6000
Send:17:41:07.449: @updatePrinterState
Send:17:41:09.482: @moveRel Y-10.00
Send:17:41:09.482: N46 G1 Y0.00 F6000
Send:17:41:09.486: @updatePrinterState
```
Even though it states that it is increasing and decreasing by 10 it only decreases by 10.
I have updated the firmware to Marlin. I tested switching X and Y inputs and believe the breakdown occurs at the Y input signal.
attached is a picture of the mother board.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nhmP2.gif)
I am unsure of how to best fix this? | [
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"text": "The question body has changed to rule out broken endstops. As a generic answer for steppers only going into a single... | 2021/12/26 | [
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18,646 | In Cura Slicer, is it possible to change the direction that the filament is laid down when making the top layer?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6AIdx.png)
For example, in the above picture the filiment is laid down at about 45 degrees to the X\Y axis. Can I make it 90 degrees? | [
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"text": "Yes with a few tricks:\n----------------------\n\nYou could turn the item by 45°, then all layers are turned to foll... | 2021/12/27 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18646",
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18,656 | Faulty endstop caused the printer (a traditional cartesian FDM) to try to move over the maximum axis limit at top, the noise has been atrocious, I don't see damages (apparently) but I'm wondering if this could have damaged something or the motors aren't strong enough to do any serious physical damage to mechanics of movement.
Could you clarify this? | [
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"text": "It's highly unlikely this crash caused any physical or electrical damage to your printer. Printers are designed ... | 2021/12/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18656",
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18,687 | I have had my Ender 3 Pro for about 2 years now and it has been working amazingly!
Since November it's struggling very much while printing. I am quite sure the problem lives on the extruder motor.
About 1 of 5 prints come out ok. The main problem is that the first 2-3 first layers are all good. But as the prints develop, under-extrusion problems come. It's not a clog, because I can push the filament and it flows smoothly. It's like the motor cannot push the filament to the feeding line.
Thing's I tried so far:
* Upgrading the extruder from plastic to aluminum (verified the tension, not too loose, not too tight)
* Changed hotend (PTFE, nozzle, block, etc)
* E-steps calibrated
* Tried switching MicroSD
* 3 different brands of filament
I noticed that the motor is getting pretty hot. I mean, you can't have your hand in there for more than a second. My theory is that this overheating softens the filament and it cannot feed. Is this possible? The aluminum extruder also gets pretty hot. There is no clicking sound or anything weird while printing, the first layers come out perfectly ok. | [
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"answer_id": 18688,
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"text": "> \n> I noticed that the motor is getting pretty hot.\n> \n> \n> \n\nThat's not normal. Replacement motors are cheap... | 2022/01/04 | [
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18,704 | I need to 3D print several composites. The constituent materials are photopolymer resins. The composites are very similar to a Rubik's cube. Considering it that way, each voxel (every small piece of the Rubik's cube) is either entirely printed by material A or B.
I have the binary files ready for the parts. More specifically speaking, I have 3D binary tensors corresponding to each composite topology. In my tensors, each of the elements represents a voxel, and their values (binary) indicate the material that should be assigned to that specific voxel. For instance, a 1 or 0 value located at the I, J, K position of the binary tensor simply means that in that composite, the voxel located at that I, J, K position should be printed with material A or B entirely.
I believe for 3D printing these composites, the [Stratasys Objet500 Connex3 printer](https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/objet-350-500-connex3) would be a good choice. However, I have no idea how to prepare my files for 3D printing the structures. If it was a CAD file, I could use slicer software, but I do not know how I can print the structures using these binary tensors. I would appreciate any help regarding this matter. | [
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"text": "Stratasys industrial machines generally use proprietary software to prepare the print files for printing and don't u... | 2022/01/09 | [
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18,713 | I am currently printing PLA infused with 80% copper powder. So far I mainly used it because it looks and feels really nice and post-processing is almost limitless, however recently I have thought that metal-like filaments might actually be a good idea for gears (in case I don't want to use polycarbonate or carbon fiber PLA).
I have been researching about the material properties of copper-infused PLA and found a few studies about the "strength", however, those seem to have exclusively focussed on how much weight can be suspended on a hook where it showed pretty good results. The only other info I found was an unsourced "it is more brittle", however the objects I printed so far do not feel more brittle.
Does anyone have any experience with spur gears printed from copper-infused PLA? Are there any advantages over regular PLA? Any downsides (I could imagine higher abrasiveness is not really helpful)? | [
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"text": "At a guess, copper really isn't that strong so you're likely to see minimal improvements, if any.\n\nThe PLA car... | 2022/01/10 | [
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18,718 | I have a bit of an odd request. I am studying the vulnerability of 3D printers and would like to know if there is a way to disable the limit switches on, for example, an Ender 3 in the G-code.
Ideally, the exploit would be used by plugging in the malicious code via SD card into the 3D printer. I have found ways to change the nozzle temp and things like that, however, nothing on the limit switches.
If I were the manufacturer, I wouldn't implement the function, so if it's not possible it will not be a surprise. If that's the case, what would be some other options for tearing this thing up? | [
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"text": "Ethics and justification:\n-------------------------\n\nIf you have physical access to the device you co... | 2022/01/10 | [
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18,757 | I'm running a stock Ender 5 pro with the filament that came with it, and using Creality Slicer 4.8.2, but I'm only able to get reliable bed adhesion if I increase the bed temperature from 50 to 60 °C for the bottom layer and decrease the print head speed by about 75 % from the default profile for the Ender 5.
The machine is absolutely stock, and is fresh out of the box except for bed levelling.
I used the default bed leveling print and that came out well, so I'm reasonably certain that it's not a bed leveling issue. The problem seems to be with models that I've made myself in blender and exported as STL files.
In all cases the raft that was generated by the Creality software has printed out perfectly, but the print has only partially gone down when it came to the model itself.  | [
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"text": "Assuming Creality's stock firmware still doesn't have Linear Advance enabled, there's a fair... | 2022/01/16 | [
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18,761 | Is there a machine (for hobbyists) that will make filament based on the type of plastic I put in. I will sort the plastic before I will put it in the machine.
I have seen the [filabot](http://filabot.com) but this uses only plastic from previous prints not plastic types Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET or PETE) or High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) (these are the #1 or #2 plastic types listed at [plasticoceans.org](https://plasticoceans.org/7-types-of-plastic/)).
To reiterate:
* I am asking if there is a machine that can turn a plastic bottle into usable filament.
* I want to know if there is a machine (currently on the market) that will make filament, based on the type of plastic I put in.
---
I *will* sort the plastic *before* I will put it in the machine... so,
```
sorted waste in ---> sorted filament out
``` | [
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"text": "The source of the plastic doesn't matter a lot.\n\nWhat matters is the plastic's composition and chemistry and... | 2022/01/17 | [
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18,790 | I have an ender 5, and I'm not certain that the bed is getting up to temperature. Or maybe I'm not understanding what it should be like when it gets up to temperature.
If I use an infrared thermometer, where should I aim it, and what should it be saying in comparison to what the screen on the printer says?
For example, if the screen says 50 degrees should the thermometer read 50 degrees, or should it read something different because that's an internal temperature or something not a surface temperature?
At the moment the bed seems "nicely warm" when the temperature on the display says that I should burn my hand if I touch it. | [
{
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"text": "Sensor mounting\n---------------\n\nAn Infrared Thermometer prefers a non-reflective surface to accurately read the ... | 2022/01/22 | [
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18,833 | I've been repeatedly finding small fragments of extremely thin cured resin floating in the vat of my elegoo saturn resin printer.
They're maybe a couple of CM across and so thin that I can't measure them. Thinner than the thinnest Suran wrap by at least half. They're very delicate and flexible so they haven't caused any damage, but I don't know where they are coming from.
I've cleaned my vat between each print, and used new resin, but it's happened 3 time now so it looks like it's being generated when I do a print run rather than coming from an old bottle.
Is this a known issue?
**EDIT**
This seems to be forming on or around the skate that supports the model, and probably only during the forming of the bottom layers. Large skates seem to form thicker chunkier "bits" while small skates form thin skins.
Is it possible that this is some kind of light spill during the bottom layer only?
The rest of my models seem to come out perfectly, so whatever is happening does not seem to be happening on every single layer.
I ran my printer for about 10-15 layers without a vat in place, and couldn't see anything unusual with the naked eye. | [
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"text": "If your prints are coming out OK and you do not see obvious failures, then it's most likely that your ... | 2022/01/31 | [
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18,837 | This might be a dumb question, but can a 60 watt heater be used on a 40 watt unit?
Simply put, I was wrong in thinking that more power was simply stuffed into the same dimensions.
It extends about 5 millimeters beyond my heating block. Can it be used in general or will it lead to some consequences?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/sz0R4.jpg "Photo showing heating element protruding from heater block") | [
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"text": "I'd expect the heater sticking out as pictured to cause problems -- the exposed part of the heater will tend ... | 2022/02/01 | [
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18,857 | I'm new to 3D printing, but my printer supports Linear Advance. I heard that it offers improvements in print quality. I used [Marlin Linear Advance Pattern Generator](https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html) to generate a print with horizontal lines at a variety of k-values.
Which K-Value would be best from my below image?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8UAF.jpg) | [
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"text": "As a general answer to evaluate the effectiveness of the K-factor, when the K-factor Calibration Pattern generator ou... | 2022/02/04 | [
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18,860 | I have an Ender 3 pro. In my country electricity outage is an issue, though it comes back pretty instantaneously, when I hit the resume button on the Ender 3 pro after heating the hot end and the bed when the hot end lifts the Y-axis or X-axis shifts a little bit, I do not understand why as when there is no power outage the prints are just flawless.
I have also tried tightening everything but feels like the motors are having their own fun tilting an extra step for no reason. I have thrown away many prints because of this problem as I work in robotics and prototyping is a necessary thing for me and so is the accuracy. | [
{
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"text": "Not sure on your exact firmware, but it could be that it is using a [M413 power loss recovery](https://marlinfw.org... | 2022/02/04 | [
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18,891 | I'm using my printer for some baby toys. My last print was one of those [pillars for stacking rings](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3556006/files), base 5. The basic format includes a base and a pillar coming up perpendicularly in the middle. A box with a cylinder sticking out of it.
Settings:
* 0.3 mm layers,
* 5 layers of base/bottom/shell,
* 20 % gyroid infill,
* PLA,
* 80 mm/s,
* 210 °C, bed at 60 °C.
Three hours of printing later, I took it out of the printer, it feels *really* solid, all the surfaces are rigid, no compression or anything.
I hand it to my kid, she drops it and the pillar just detaches along the Z layer seam at the base.
Is there anything I can do, either model or printing-wise to reinforce it, aside from printing it horizontally with a bunch of supports?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MefU6.jpg) | [
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18,901 | I am using a FORM LABS 3 printer with clear resin. After printing the model, I wash it with Isopropenyl and dry it. Then I cure it using Formlabs Form Cure for 5 minutes under 60 C°.
After curing the model, the clear print loses some of its transparency.
Is this normal? can it be avoided? | [
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"text": "This happens to most resins and the amount of haziness is directly related to the type of resin. Not all cle... | 2022/02/09 | [
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18,907 | I'm working on a project using 3D printed parts, everything is working very nicely except for one part that needs a 3 mm x 1.2 mm diameter rod. I can print with PLA/PLA+ but such a thin object doesn't seem viable for 3D printing. Is it still possible or am I better off using a 1.2 mm metal dowel?
The bigger part (5 mm x 7 mm diameter) near the back isn't an issue, it's the small rod that I can't seem to print correctly
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JGkft.png "Part") | [
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"text": "It would be impossible to print this standing with the rod straight up, and even if you got it to print the... | 2022/02/11 | [
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18,918 | I have an Anycubic Chiron printer and use Ultimaker Cura for slicing. Recently I printed a simple clip, had no problems whatsoever.
I have since upgraded Cura to the latest version, and now the PLA will not stick to the build plate. The printer will make 3 passes whilst printing the brim, then it all collects into a ball. I have checked the level, all is OK, I have increased the temperatures, with the EO now at 225 °C (was 200 °C) and the bed at 75 °C (was 60 °C)
Does anyone know how much or what was changed by Ultimaker in the latest upgrade? | [
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"text": "I don't think it's because of Cura. You can try if it still works with the older version.\n\nOtherwise, clean ... | 2022/02/13 | [
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18,932 | I have just bought a Creality CR-10 Smart 3D printer, and - as part of the rite of passage of newbies - I am struggling with getting a usable initial layer. Whilst trying to make sense of what I was seeing in the net and correlating it with what I was experiencing with my printer, I thought to check the printer's credentials (I had assumed it was a recent model). However, looking at the information on the LED screen, I see:
| | |
| --- | --- |
| Machine type | CR-10 Smart |
| Firmware version | HW 1.0.6 |
| Screen version | T18 |
| Hardware version | DWIN 4.3 |
Can anyone comment on whether this is recent or ancient? Is it a V1 or a V2?
As a software engineer of several decades standing, but a complete newbie to 3D printing, I'm suffering from culture shock, and I'm struggling to understand why my printer doesn't just work "out of the box" like my line printers do.
I find it particularly difficult sorting out the information about Creality's various CR-10\* models, partly because of the naming conventions, but chiefly because my CR-10 Smart doesn't look like any that I have seen referred to anywhere in the net. I was told that the CR-10 Smart had auto bed levelling (ABL) built in, but when I search for `CR-10S ABL` I only find stuff about add-ons like BLTouch, and nothing about the CR-10 Smart with built-in ABL.
Add into the mix the now traditional Internet problem that the date of web pages and whether they are still relevant is often unclear.
Then I found a Youtube video by [WillCaddy](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4I8b5-71rk), which suggested that CR-10S printers with Creality firmware do not have ABL enabled, and that to get functioning ABL you had to install TH3D.
Is this true?
If anyone can help me with any of this, I would be very grateful. I am working my way slowly through Michael Laws' excellent ["Teaching Tech" channel](https://teachingtechyt.github.io/), but I'm impatient... | [
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"text": "Leveling ([actually scanning the surface](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16605/5740)) can be done manually p... | 2022/02/15 | [
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18,936 | I'm trying to get good-quality thin wall prints with PLA on my Creality CR10s Pro V2 using Cura. After hours of calibration and testing, I'm getting quite good results. However, there is one issue I can't figure out. It seems that I'm getting uneven extrusion and blobs when the printer deaccelerates or accelerates. This issue causes problems with rounded corners on my test prints (see photos). In Cura, there is no retraction or anything in the arc, just accelerations. I have experimented with acceleration and jerk without success. I also tried to decrease the print speed from 50 mm/s to 20 mm/s, and it seems to have a minor positive effect. Anyone got any ideas on what values I need to change? Can this be a mechanical problem?
### General print settings:
* Temp: 210 °C
* Layer: 0.2 mm
* Infill: 0 %
* Retraction distance: 3 mm
* Retraction speed: 60 mm/s
* Cooling: 80 %
* Flow: 102.5 %
* Acceleration: 500 mm/s
* Jerk: 20 mm/s (Tried values from 5 to 20)
### Printed at 50 mm/s:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OaIEh.jpg "Printed model with blobs printing errors")
### Printed at 20 mm/s:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNsIp.jpg "Printed model that has been printed slower but still has blobs printing errors")
### Cura:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFj1J.jpg "Screenshot of the rendered model in Cura") | [
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"text": "If you haven't already, try rotating the object about the Z-axis to give a different orientation with respect t... | 2022/02/15 | [
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18,959 | I tried printing something after 7 weeks of not using the printer (before it worked greatly) and I think it doesn't extrude properly (although I'm not sure about it).
When I tell the printer to extrude filament it works just fine, but during the print there seems to be a problem with it (see image below). When manually pushing the filament with some force, it works for a bit, but stops working after 1 minute.
I tried cleaning the gear, levelling and cleaning the bed with almost no success.
I'm using a Creality Ender 3 with a (golden) PLA filament.
This is how the print error looks like. The first layer should be completely filled.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1RAIk.jpg "Failed first layer")
Note: I didn't change anything (neither the filament nor the software) and before it was printing fine with 200 °C. | [
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18,960 | I want to use magnets to hold the lid of a box down tight enough to keep it relatively airtight (along with a rubber seal etc.), but I am not sure what strength of magnet to use, that will still allow it to be opened without causing damage either by having to be pried open or by crushing the print layers. I cannot seem to find any guide to how magnets are used for 3d printing at various strengths and I cannot afford to buy too many types that I am not then going to use.
Any help that you can provide will be greatly appreciated. | [
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"text": "I had a similar experience using magnets to hold two plates together. Currently also building a device (3d-... | 2022/02/20 | [
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18,987 | I print a lot of stuff, and I was thinking I could get several magnetic bed-plates and when 1 print is done simply have my wife pull the plate off and stick on clean plate and start the print again.
But a friend of mine says that won't work. Because even if the plates are made by the same manufacturer you can't guarantee the bed will be level. 〰
Has anyone ever tried this? | [
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"text": "Yes ,I was also facing the same problem couples of month ago and to solution I had buyed extra plates an... | 2022/02/23 | [
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18,996 | I picked up a roll of Overture matte black PLA, and the surface of both the filament and the printed object *feel like* paper. This made me wonder if it contains wood-based fibers like "wood PLA" does, and if so, whether it's abrasive and harmful to the nozzle. In the past I wouldn't have cared, but I'm using a CHT now and would like to avoid ruining it since it's expensive and I don't have spares sitting around. | [
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19,021 | So I just got my first 3D printer the Ender 3 Pro. My nozzle is a bit too high (first image) and this is what happened after my first test print (second image).
I saved for a while to buy this and I’m really upset about this.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/x1wNg.jpg "Photo of Ender 3 Pro nozzle well above the build plate")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRbKI.jpg "Photo of a model printed halfway through with 'spaghetti'")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gt4h1.jpg "Photo of a model printed halfway through with 'spaghetti' but from the side")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QrEJo.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/D480L.jpg) | [
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"text": "Your Z-endstop assembly is clearly too high. Referring to your own first foto you see that the switch on the Z-endst... | 2022/02/26 | [
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19,023 | On a PLA print where stringing has occurred, what is the best way to remove it during post processing?
Should I simply cut it with a hobby knife and sand the surface or are the better techniques to use? | [
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19,025 | I'd like to force Klipper to perform power on (using `M80`) before homing. For this purpose I'm trying to override `G28`:
```
[gcode_macro G28]
rename_existing: G28_BASE
gcode:
M80
G28_BASE { rawparams }
```
But for some reason this does not work, I'm getting the following error:
```
G-Code macro rename of different types ('G28' vs 'G28_BASE')
```
Isn't `G28` overridable? Is there any other way to achieve the desired behavior? | [
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19,029 | Other than unrolling it and measuring it, is there a method for telling how much filament is left on a spool, for example calculating a length bases on weight or number of turns left on the spook?
Is it possible to extract the amount of filament used from the printer's firmware? | [
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19,048 | OK here's some background of the problem:
Symptoms:
* All retracts on the extruder produce a screeching noise. The extruder extrudes normally all other times.
* Any fast move on the Z-axis also produces a screeching noise and the Z-axis will move normally at all other times.
* This appears to happen regardless of any printing state whether the heaters are on or not it will still occur it even happens during the ABL process.
Specifications of the printer:
* Mainboard: MKS Gen L V2
* Drivers: TMC2209 UART
* Stepper motors: Stepperonline 17HS15-1504S 1.8 deg 1.5A
* Pulleys: GT2 16T
* Leadscrew: 2 mm pitch T8
* Hotend: E3D V6
OK so basically I performed an upgrade of my stepper drivers as well as the leadscrew and pulleys on my 3D printer which was originally a Tevo tornado and at the start of every print I would experience a loud screeching noise coming from the Z-axis and I originally identified it to be a single line in my G-code that would only trigger the screech if it was preceded by another line and by commenting out the first line I was able to start printing
Lines in question:
```
G1 X3 Y1 Z15 F9000 ; Move safe Z height to shear strings
G0 X1 Y1 Z0.2 F9000 ; Move in 1mm from edge and up [z] 0.2mm
```
However, while I was able to start printing, I soon found out that the extruder was doing the same thing with every retract it would create a loud screech and the filament wouldn't be retracted this caused heavy stringing as well as poor layer adhesion resulting in prints failing. I figured the problem was with the version of Marlin I was using so I attempted to use the latest bug fix. However, I was still experiencing the same problems. I attempted to see if the stepper current was the problem and after identifying that the stepper current was not the cause of the problem, I figured I needed to replace the stepper motors and after replacing the stepper motors the problem still remained. I figured the problem must be with Marlin so I attempted to use Klipper. However, I am still experiencing the same and now I can't even complete a mesh bed leveling as the movements that Klipper uses are triggering the loud screeching and causing the steppers to freeze up.
I am unsure as to what could be causing this as I think I've checked everything that could be causing it so I'm not quite sure how to proceed I've also made a video that should show the problem in action. So I guess I'm wondering what's my next troubleshooting step?
EDIT: Updates
I have tried changing the drivers back to TMC2208s there have been no changes on both Kilpper and Marlin.
I tried switching to an MKS Gen L V2.1 in case it was a mainboard problem. sill experiencing problems
Marlin Config
Configuration.H
<https://paste-bin.xyz/41662>
Configuration\_ADV.H
<https://paste-bin.xyz/41663>
Klipper Config
<https://paste-bin.xyz/41677>
Edit:
The only other thing I think I can try is running the TMC2209s in standalone mode | [
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19,051 | I purchased a new 4.2.7 (256k) board for my Ender 5 Pro and added the CR Touch. I got everything connected and flashed the board with the "Ender-5 Pro- Marlin2.0.1 - V1.1.1 - ALT - TMC2235.bin" firmware from the creality.com/download > Accessory Firmware > CR Touch Firmware for 32-bit Motherboard > Ender-5 Pro.zip
**Problem:**
When told to Auto Home the Z-axis drops 5 mm then checks X-axis & Y-axis endstops = OK
But then the Z-axis drops another 3 mm and the CR Touch deploys > Retracts > deploys > Retracts and Faults out.
The instructions say to move the Z-axis to get the offset but it will only go down while the CR Touch is faulted (Stopped)
I've checked all wiring made sure the Z-axis endstop was disconnected. No help.
Thinking it was a board issue I wanted to check the normal, no CR Touch, functionality, so I flashed the Marlin2.0.1 V1.0.1 original versionTMC2225 "Marlin2.0.1 - V1.0.1 - Endstop - TMC2225.bin" firmware onto the board, and reconnected the Z-axis endstop. The printer worked like normal.
Not wanting to fail, I decided to try another firmware, so I decided to use TH3D\_Unified2\_CrealityV4X\_256K. I went through and set up everything using `CUSTOM_PROBE` settings. And wouldn't you know it... SAME Results as with the Creality "Ender-5 Pro- Marlin2.0.1 - V1.1.1 - ALT - TMC2235.bin" firmware.
Bed drops 5 mm at the start of Auto Home then drops another 3 mm after centering to deploy the CR Touch. The CR Touch deploys > Retracts > deploys > Retracts then Faults out. At no point does the bed ever try to go up.
The only other thing I can think of is that the CR Touch isn't working right. I thought it was supposed to deploy then the bed was to come up to it to detect it. Could the wiring "harness" for the CR Touch be incorrectly wired? (Wiring below)
Can someone help me with this one?
Do I have a bad Board?
Do I have a bad CR Touch?
Or am I just not getting a setting right somewhere?
---
CR Touch Wiring (Current) 5pin from factory --- Connectors can only be put in one way
@ Creality 4.2.7 Board --- From Left to Right
G = White | V = Black | IN = Yellow | G = Red | Out = Blue
@ Creality CR Touch --- From Left to Right with Creality logo facing you
Blue | Red | Yellow | Black | White | [
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19,053 | As the printer ages, the constant motion of the print head wears out the conductors inside the cable. Creating all sorts of fun debugging scenarios.
Is there such a thing as a bundled cable, with all the necessary wires, for the stepper motor (in the case of direct drives), hot end, thermistor, etc... and when one of the conductors wear out just replace the whole bundle? | [
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"text": "Have you thought of using a ribbon cable? I have/ have had similar issues with a large print area CoreXY. I'm ... | 2022/03/06 | [
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19,063 | I have a 12 V/30 A power supply. Will a RAMPS 1.4 shield burn if I use that power supply with it? | [
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"text": "No, it won't burn if you use a power supply that put out 12 Volts and tolerates up to 30 Amps."
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"... | 2022/03/07 | [
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19,078 | In every 3D print that I have seen, the bed should be leveled (manually or with some sensor-based system) on multiple points, pretty annoying because often when you reach the perfect distance on a point another point should be adjusted again repeating the procedure multiple time to have perfect leveling on all points.
I'm wondering why height isn't just fixed with the optimal leveling. | [
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"text": "The point of \"leveling\" (tramming) the bed is to make it:\n\n1. square with the coordinate ... | 2022/03/09 | [
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19,081 | There are numerous topics found on first layers that do not adhere properly causing prints to fail or cause print quality defects.
The advice is often to properly level or tram the build surface. How does one tram the build surface? | [
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"text": "### Definition of leveling\n\nTramming, often referred to as \"leveling\" in the 3D printer world (\"tramming\" and \... | 2022/03/10 | [
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19,085 | I have an Ender 5 Pro with a flexible build plate (The factory default one).
There are multiple extremely thin tracks of melted PLA all over it. Too thin to easily peal off when cooled. Thin enough that you can run your finger over them and barely know that they are there.
What is the best way to clean them off other than simply brut forcing them with a scraper and risking damaging the surface.
Rubbing with IPA and a cloth isn't enough.
I have a plastic razor that's normally used for removing vinyl decal from vehicles without scratching the paint, would that be useful, or maybe just scrubbing for an hour with a nail brush? | [
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"text": "TL;DR:\n------\n\nPrint more PLA on top of them, and pull it off together.\n\nPreparation\n-... | 2022/03/11 | [
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19,106 | I am looking for troubleshooting help on my printer. Recently the hot end just can muster the courage to go past about 70 °C.
The hardware - Ender 3V2 with a E3D V6 hot end. 24 volts
I changed the thermistor to a new one. Before heating, it registers an appropriate 10 °C in line with the bed temp sensor.
With the thermistor checked good, I looked at the heater element. It is reading 22 Ω. The documentation from E3D is not clear in what wattage heater I bought, but if it is a 30 W 24 V heater, it's on the high end of acceptable.
* A 24 V 30 W heater cartridge will read between 16.7 - 22.6 Ω.
* A 24 V 40 W heater cartridge will read between 12.3 - 15.1 Ω.
If anyone is able to confirm how to know what my heater wattage is supposed to be, LMK. Options are shown for blue wires, red wires, and yellow. I have yellow.
If the resistance is in spec, I checked if the voltage being supplied to the heater is correct. It is reading 23.6 V which seems good.
I have attempted to PID autotune in Pronterface which I had also done several times previously before the issue. If I try to target anything over 70 °C, the attempt to tune fails because it can't get hot enough. I can tune if I set the temp to 65 °C by comparison.
The temperature trace in Pronterface shows the temp rising quickly through the 30s, 40s, then plateauing and maxing out in the high 60s.
I am looking for advice on where to look next for trouble shooting. Seems odd to suddenly have such a low temperature limit capability that I can't root cause. | [
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19,117 | 1. Is it possible to 3D print multiple 0.1 mm high layers with a 0.4 mm diameter nozzle in FDM while ensuring fidelity to the set layer height? The raster width is set at 0.4 mm and I am not touching that. The part thickness is 3 mm, so 30 layers of 0.1 mm have to be deposited for the completion of the print job. My polymer is PLA.
2. If not, should I be using a 0.2 mm diameter nozzle for this purpose?
3. Can a 0.4 mm print nozzle print rasters with higher width (0.5 mm, 0.6 mm, etc.)? | [
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"text": "The [general consensus for nozzle diameter versus layer height](https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-n... | 2022/03/18 | [
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19,129 | I'm working on a gadget a bit like a jewelry box. I want the lid on a hinge. Are 3d printed hinges robust enough for daily use long term? Perhaps with a metal pin?
I want to incorporate the hinge into the design but my thinking is that it would be a waste of time if the hinge will break as I'd need to reprint the whole gadget. | [
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"text": "More detailed information would be valuable. A hinge the size of a soft drink can is going to be stronger than th... | 2022/03/21 | [
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19,154 | I have recently, in anticipation of printing carbon-fiber-reinforced nylon filament (Polymaker PA6-CF) on my Prusa i3 MK3S, built a filament drybox. It is made out of a large aluminum equipment enclosure which I had spare, every seam, rivet, hinge mount, foot screw, sealing lip, etc of which has been sealed with copious amounts of high-quality silicone sealant (this is condensation-curing silicone, so it does release a small amount of moisture as it cures, but it has been in here several days and is about as cured as it gets now). The lip around the edge of is clamped hard against a rubber sealing ring, which I have cleaned meticulously, when the lid of the box is closed and latched. In short, it is, by 3D printer drybox standards, unusually well-sealed.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/D7xhB.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJpod.jpg)
(yes, I know my silicone work is a mess, but let nobody say I missed a spot!)
For drying, I have poured two pounds of orange self-indicating silica gel, freshly regenerated, directly into the bottom of the box, exposing the maximum possible surface area (as opposed to having it in a container).
Humidity is monitored by a DHT22 temperature/humidity sensor, connected to an external microcontroller used for data reporting. The wire passthrough is a 1mm diameter hole in a custom 3D-printed passthrough (held in by a printed nut) with 3 pieces of magnet wire running through it, sealed with glue from both ends. I really doubt it's leaking through this either. The datasheet for this sensor indicates it should be accurate even at low humidities, and is accurate to +/- ~2.5% RH over most of its range and does not exceed +/- 5% anywhere. Per the datasheet, its accuracy should far-exceed that of the little battery-powered digital hygrometers many drybox builds seem to use.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ca5x.png)
Despite all of this, per the DHT22, it only reaches between 16.1 and 16.5% RH. As I understand it, a well-sealed drybox with well-exposed desiccant should be capable of better than this - I've seen sub-10% reported online. It's also worryingly close to the 20% maximum storage RH of the filament, per its TDS. What's going on here? My only real theories are:
* A lack of internal air circulation has resulted in stratification, with denser dry air close to the desiccant at the bottom and damper air at the top where the humidity sensor is located - this might be fixed with an internal circulation fan?
* My sensor is not as accurate as its datasheet claims
* The desiccant is somehow defective
* My expectations are unrealistic and 16% RH is normal and acceptable performance for such a drybox
Having tried most of the obvious things already (seal the box better, add more desiccant, increase desiccant surface area, let the box settle over days, install a high-quality sensor, ensure nothing inside the box is releasing absorbed moisture, seal the box even better), I'm beginning to expect it's the latter. Is it acceptable to remove my nylon from its sealed packaging and begin storing it in the drybox with this performance? Have others had success with nylon stored at 16% RH (as opposed to the sub-10% RH I've sometimes seen people talk about dryboxes reaching)? Are reported sub-10% readings for other dryboxes on the internet even accurate, or do the cheap little battery-powered hygrometers most DIY dryboxes use read inaccurately low at low humidities? | [
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19,162 | I've been trying to learn Bjoyder as an additional tool for 3D printing (to prepare more organic or freeform models that don't lend themselves to a CAD style workflow I'm more used to), and one point of confusion I've hit is that Bjoyder's default unit is *meters*, not millimeters. Apparently in older versions its default was an abstract unspecified "units" with metric-like base-10 grid, but no inherent association to physical scale, but now the default is "metric" with meters as the unit. I've found some tutorials [such as this one](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZI49VIcISaw) for switching to millimeters, but it requires making a number of changes that I'm not sure are in line with what folks consider "best practices" for "modeling for 3D printing with Bjoyder".
Is there any consensus on the right way to do this? Are there reasons I should prefer to switch back to the abstract "units", and just treat them as millimeters, versus using "metric" but switching the base unit to "0.0001" (maybe numerical precision reasons?).
I know this question is only borderline on-topic, but I think it is relevant as I'm looking for what the prevailing practice *in communities using Bjoyder as a tool for 3D printing*, not for opinions of a larger Bjoyder community. | [
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19,173 | I love the idea of the XYZ test cube to help diagnose my bad prints. I’m able to find online very common print issues however am looking for a resource that is more extensive. Often I run into a situation where my issue is not covered.
Would be great if there was a resource that had pictures of numerous bad or less than ideal XYZ prints with cause and fix for each. I’m thinking of more than 50 examples.
Does anyone know of such a resource?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aogym.jpg) | [
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19,198 | Using cyanoacrylate to glue PLA parts sometimes leaves a white residue or haze near the glue locations. Is there an easy way to remove it?
I've tried water and alcohol swabs but after drying the haze remains.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cw1pu.jpg "Photo showing white residue") | [
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19,202 | I own a spool of PETG and I have been having major print quality issues: layer offsets, chunks of 3D print strewn across the buildplate and other things. I traced these effects to a single culprit: rough layers. I don't know how to fix this. I haven't had this issue at all with any of my other PETG filament colors. And the buildplate height is just where it needs to be, so why is this happening?
### Print settings
* Layer height: 0.23 mm
* Extruder: 235 °C
* Bed: 80 °C
* Retraction length: 6 mm
* Retraction extra restart length: 0.3 mm
* Z-Hop height: 0.25 mm
* Base print speed: 45 mm/s
* Extrusion ratio: 106 % | [
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"text": "You are probably over extruding, this causes an excess amount of filament causing the mentioned problems. PETG is so... | 2022/04/06 | [
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19,208 | I am new at this and maybe my model is not the best, I adapted it for another one actually. Can you tell me why I can't get the holes printed? I already checked the faces and they are all in the correct orientation (I think)
What happens is that I start printing with the holes facing down and they are not printed at all. I never let it keep going for long but it seems to be completely filled inside.
You can check the file [here](https://ufile.io/9favbj6e).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSvn0.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1PSD.png) | [
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19,215 | This problem has been occurring for a while. On the top of round objects, you can see the individual layers. Maybe I just need a lower layer height.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQqhp.jpg "Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors on the top") | [
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"text": "At the top of curves layers will always be more visible because the layers are increasing offset from each other. ... | 2022/04/10 | [
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19,225 | What are the real overhang limits? I see a lot online about 45 %, then up to 60 %, but I'm routinely doing them at up to 90 % for "shortish" distances and 80%+ for several centimeters at a time. I haven't tried to see how far I can do it, since I don't have filament to waste on that sort of thing.
It's making me wonder how believable all the YouTube and website experts are. Same thing with stringing, they all talk about it on Ender 3's but this print has been going for 25 hours and has maybe two tiny strings.
This is the second time I've printed this same STL with no supports.
* 0.2 mm layer height
* Ender 3 Pro
* Generic PLA
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IqHWF.jpg) | [
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19,238 | As an engineer I was initially interested in making parts. For example I designed and printed a better part for something which wasn't available locally, and even had a client who wanted 150 of them. But print time was 23 hours per part. and I didn't have full confidence in the robustness of the part. The layer lines are a big weakness and anything less than 3 mm is so flimsy that it's a waste of time. So robust performance parts are out. As are high tolerance ones. Build volume makes it even less useful. And the design compromises you have to make are difficult to justify if there are other ways.
Then with other network parts I thought of designing the vast majority needed other bits and pieces, screws, shafts, connectors in metal that I'd need to source and assemble. Enclosures were okay, but weak, and I can fabricate those stronger and faster in other ways.
So now I mainly just print to what I perceive to be 3D printings strengths and have almost given up on parts.
Has anyone had a different experience? | [
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"text": "> \n> Under what circumstances\n> \n> \n> \n\nWhen your part has internal geometry that would be difficult and exp... | 2022/04/15 | [
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19,252 | I want to print out a flat object without any support structure straight onto the build plate of my ender 5. It's going to be PLA and I need it to be thin enough to still be flexible.
I don't have a picture available, but imagine that I wanted to print out the Coke Cola and then wrap it around a bland soda can, so that the logo is raised up slightly?
Alternatively, what is the best layer height to use, and how many layers should I use? | [
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"text": "With PLA you can just heat it to curve around the object. I've done this with up to 2mm. Real easy with 1mm.\n\nI ... | 2022/04/18 | [
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19,261 | Questions like this are ***usually*** not allowed but since the price of a brass nozzle in Switzerland is 15.90 and the average price of a nozzle from Alibaba or AliExpress is less than 0.10, and nozzles are something you exchange frequently the issue becomes of such magnitude that we ***need*** to have a simple answer to the very straightforward question:
Do nozzles from China offer the same quality and results? | [
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"text": "Up until this year, I used the cheap nozzles - the original that came with my Ender 3, and b... | 2022/04/19 | [
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19,267 | I'm trying to figure out if it's worth buying a 3D printer or using an online printing service like e.g. [this one](https://treddy.it) in the long run. Anyone have any cost analysis? | [
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"text": "It depends\n==========\n\nIf it is worth to invest in a print made for you compared to getting a printer depends on t... | 2022/04/20 | [
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19,291 | In my previous research for mods for my Ender 3v2, I came across the topic of part cooling mods. The two most common are the Petsfang and Hero Me sets.
1. What are the pros and cons of third-party/DIY part cooling mods?
2. What benefit does having a third-party/DIY part cooling mod provide? | [
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19,301 | I need to print parts that fit together very well on the Longer LK5 Pro. However, after printing a Benchy, I noticed that whatever I print has a lot of imperfections. Is there any way I can fix this? All I know about the printing conditions was that I was printing at 230 °C nozzle temperature with 60 °C bed temperature. I was using PLA+. I was also printing the Benchy file that comes with the Longer LK5 printer. I tried tightening the Y-axis belt, that moves the bed, and the wheels on the bottom of the bed.
Here are pictures of my Benchy:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7a2T.jpg "Top View")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cm7Jt.jpg "Left hand side view")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYNXx.jpg "Bottom view")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KTtu.jpg "Right hand side view") | [
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19,306 | I have a very eccentric, weird, unusual and strange idea. I need some advice and serious professional help.
I'm interested in 3D printing in PLA a hollow complex structure with 0.2 thickness walls (Yes! That thin!). Fill it with very fine copper powder with a little borax powder thoroughly mixed. Use superglue to join halves or other shell pieces together, making sure the powder is very well compacted. Then in a separate container I want to make some thin plaster of Paris (calcium sulfate with a lot of water). Mix in it, some of my trimmed hair (about 5mm in length). No joke. Seriously. Please, I'm begging you with all my heart, hear me out! There's a very good useful reason for doing it. I then place the object (3D printed flimsy crappy shell filled with copper powder) in a DIY drywall box and pour in the plaster over the 3D printed shell object until the box is filled and object completely covered. Leave it to dry and completely solidify for a day. Then I bake the entire thing in a furnace making sure I'm over the copper melting temperature and voila! 3D printing in copper very complex intricate models with ease. Can it be that easy? Or am I deluding myself?
The hair purpose, after it will burn inside the plaster while in the furnace, is to create very thin tubules or air holes for water and gases to escape and to prevent cracking of the plaster under intense heat. I don't want to use hay because the straws are too thick. I have to use very thin organic straws. I just can't think of anything more accessible than my hair. Do you know of something even thinner and more accessible than human hair? Please let me know. I know it sounds and looks very odd, weird and strange. I'm opened to alternatives or other suggestions, otherwise I wouldn't be here making a fool of myself with such an insane ridiculous idea.
I was thinking to add some form of additional volume above the object, which is connected to the model by some thin hollow tube. All this volume (like an empty cube (shell) ) will also be filled with very fine copper powder providing additional melted copper to the model, in the case if the powder was not very well compacted inside the shell model.
Could this absurd ridiculous insane crazy idea work? I have never heard of anything like this. This is so bizarre and strange. It seems to be some form of odd mix of multiple techniques. But besides all this, will it work in the end? Will the plaster hold while some of it(depends on the model) will be inside molten copper? Or do I have to mix in the plaster, not just hair, but also some individual singular fine strands of steel wool?
I don't know who and where to ask such a thing. Am I in the right place? I don't know what this idea is, I don't know how to name it, I don't know how to ask or formulate this idea, I don't know how to google it or search it. I don't know anything. I really need some guidance, help and advice. | [
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19,308 | I have a semi-diy hotend setup on my MOOZ-2 (an obscure chinese printer). It requires that the total nozzle length (including threading) is longer than 15 mm. So far, I've been using Volcano nozzles because they're the only ones I can find that meet this requirement. However I believe this negatively impacts performance because they stick out way beyond the heater block (see picture below). Unfortunately, the next size I can find are MK8 or V6 nozzles which are 13 mm - too short! Are there any nozzle sizes in between that I could use?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IN5df.jpg) | [
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19,313 | I have a spool of PLA filament where the diameter is visibly inconsistent. So it will only print a meter or two and then start slipping instead of being fed into the nozzle. Is this still useful for anything or can it be salvaged somehow?
I can't return it, the shipping costs more than the spool. | [
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19,317 | I'm new to 3D printing, I have printed the cat that comes on the SD card on my Ender 3 and it's amazing the level of detail. After that, I tried to print another figure and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I don't even know what to search for troubleshooting images because none of those seems similar to my problem.
I used Ultimaker Cura to generate the G-code, it's the same filament, good (I think) bed leveling with 50 °C and nozzle at 200 °C. Is something wrong with the printer? Or is it the configuration of my G-code and what parameters do I need to check?
The next images are:
1. my first cat (nice print)
2. what I want to print
3. what I actually print
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBTwS.jpg "3D printed cat model from SD card")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qchXO.jpg "3D rendering of a skeletal monster model")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/t12Ce.jpg "Failed print of skeletal monster model") | [
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19,320 | I build and export my model using ZBrush and as STL files.
To fix the mesh for 3D print, I try to use 3D Builder which can automatically repair my parts.
As it saves as a single file, if I import all parts at once,
I import the files one by one, repair them, then save them as a new file.
After all the parts were repaired, I import all parts to see the result
but find some repaired parts' positions shifted.
How should I handle these issues?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/01xRd.png "Rendering of 3D model with parts shifted from original position") | [
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19,326 | I have an old notebook computer that works just fine, but the outside of the lid is badly damaged and needs to be replaced. The screen and wiring are fine, so I only need to replace the housing that is exposed to the outside world.
**What is the best filament for an impact-resistant printed housing?** Should I consider other options that may prevent damage to the internal components? Are there any alternatives with cosmetic benefits?
Edit:
Since I was asked, presume I may be willing to buy a new part to upgrade or accommodate a new filament type. | [
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19,331 | Bought a new printer. When this problem has happened anywhere from the third to the twentieth layer up. An excess of filament suddenly exits the nozzle, often pulling the print from the bed when the nozzle moves away. The only advice I've found so far is that the nozzle or hotend may have damage, but I didn't find any when removing them to examine them. I've tried a few different ranges of settings. Guidance would be appreciated.
I'm using a Creality Ender 3 with out-of-the-box equipment and slicing with the most recent Creality Print version. Settings are default (bed: 70 °C and hot end: 200 °C).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yjEx.jpg)
Here's what I get if I set everything to default, switch filament spool, and use a .gcode file that was sent in-box from the manufacturer. There was not really ever anything printed, since the blob was stuck to the nozzle and was dragged around in three dimensions until I stopped the printer.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ucg06.jpg) | [
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19,336 | Can the GT2 belts lengthen themselves if they are tentioned too much?
I had them tensioned quite a bit until I saw the [video](https://youtu.be/zoKmmT0a7jk) from "Lost in Tech". I then decided to reduce the tension, but the dimensional precision was all over the place. So my guess is, that the belts are too long now? | [
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19,340 | I recently broke the cooling fan on my Voxelab Aquila while doing some maintenance, and I'm in the middle of a multi piece print that I would like to finish soon. I found the fan replacement I need, but it's not going to arrive for over a week. I was wondering if it would be ok to print a few things with the broken fan, or if that would be bad for the motor or anything else.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wC69.jpg)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/C8Kvm.jpg) | [
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19,353 | Most of the guides I can find are just canned responses to specific questions. Instead I'm looking for something meant to teach good fundamental understanding and core needed skills. Beginner's guides are common in other hobbies but I am having trouble finding one for 3d printing. | [
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19,359 | Looking to print a new part for a home appliance. There's going to need to be a new model created with the customizations made, but the model (after printing) will have to fit where the old part was. Is there any 3D modeling software that is better for this purpose? Will I just have to guess at proper proportions and hand-adjust the scaling of each dimension and angle through trial and error until a version fits? | [
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19,363 | Should I be able to hand turn the stepper motor for the extruder of an Ender 3?
Trying to figure out why the motor isn’t turning on a new to me, never used, but out-of-warranty Ender 3.
Swapping controller cables I discovered the extruder port on the motherboard is dead, but even if I put it on the X axis and manually move the axis it makes the sound like it should move, but doesn’t actually move at all.
Trying to figure out if it’s seized or something. Doing a resistance test with a multimeter shows a resistance of 4 for either of the two pairs of wires. I am not sure what else to test.
I have a hard time believing I need a new control board and a new stepper motor, but maybe two things are broke.
Thanks for the help!
---
EDIT - Got the Extruder Working
-------------------------------
After the comments here mentioned that "Yes, it should be able to be moved by hand", curiosity got the better of me and I said, "Well, if its broken, let's see why".
I did the following:
1. I tried to turn the stepper motor by hand again, just to confirm I wasn't crazy from the day before when I tried it. It wouldn't budge.
2. I removed all four screws on the bottom of the stepper motor and attempted to pry things apart. While fiddling with it, I thought I saw the stepper motor turn.
3. Sure enough, I now tried to spin the stepper motor and it moved relatively easily.
4. I put the 4 screws back in place and validated I could still hand turn the motor. I could in fact do so.
5. I hooked the stepper motor back up to the X axis controller and told it to move, and sure enough now it moves and works!
6. Just as a sanity check, I then hooked it up to the extruder controller and it again wouldn't turn.
I'm going to try what @towe recommended to make sure the controller board is in fact fried, but I *think* I might JUST have a fried board and not a fried motor. | [
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19,380 | I want to put relief text on curved surface but can't find way to do that in OpenSCAD. I'm aware it's possible to bend text in Blender and then `import stl`, but I don't like this workflow. I found sort of working solution but it's not perfect.
```
$fn=50;
module bend_text(caption, angle, text_height, text_width, text_depth, steps=10, k=1) {
dh = text_height / steps;
r = text_height / (angle * PI / 180);
h0 = - text_height / 2;
translate([0, 0, -r])
rotate([angle / 2, 0, 0])
for(i=[0:steps-1]) {
rotate([-i * angle/steps, 0, 0])
translate([0, -(dh * i + h0), r / k])
intersection() {
linear_extrude(text_depth)
text(caption, valign="center", halign="center");
translate([0, dh * i + h0, 0])
cube([text_width, dh, text_width], center=true);
}
}
}
bend_text("test", angle=90, text_height=9, text_width=30, text_depth=1, steps=10, k=1.1);
```
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zq1h.png)
Is there better way? | [
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19,393 | **NEW UPDATE BELOW**
--------------------
---
I am having trouble finding the cause for this under-extrusion at start/end of each layer.
Something changes halfway into the print creating a visible seam at some specific layer height.
This also creates dimensional inaccuracy making my parts unusable.
The first layers are just fine - roundness deviation around 0.03 mm!
**Any ideas on which settings I should look into?**
**Settings**
Printer: Dremel 3D45 (newest firmware)
Slicer: Dremel DigiLab (also tried Cura Ultimaker 5.0)
Filament: [PET-G](https://www.dasfilament.de/filament-refill/petg-1-75-mm/305/petg-filament-1-75-mm-feuerrot-refill-800-g?c=57)
Printing Temperature: 250 °C
Initial Temperature: 240 °C
Final Temperature: 235 °C
Flow: 105 %
Retraction Distance: 1 mm (tried 3 - 1 mm)
Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s (tried 60 - 20 mm/s)
Prime Amount: 0.6 mm³ (tried 0 - 0.6)
Retraction Minimum Travel: 0
Retract at Layer Change: Off
Maximum Retraction Count: 90 (could this be a problem?)
Minimun Extrusion Distance Window: 1 mm
Print Speed: 35 mm/s
Wall Sprint Speed: 30 mm/s
Combing Mode: All
Fan Speed: 50 %
Seam: Shortest
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2oBBX.jpg "Photo of the top of a 3D printed model showing printing errors")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lueum.jpg "Photo of the side of a 3D printed model showing printing errors")
---
**Update 18/05**
----------------
Fixed the seam by setting the alignment to random and changing retraction settings.
Remaining problem is the inaccuracy right next to the Y axis (see marked area on the pictures). Besides a hardware issue I cant think about any slicer setting which would adress this deviation.
Diameter X: 30.02 mm
Diameter Y: 30.04 mm
Diameter Marked: 29.90 mm
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZKcvO.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxHCQ.jpg) | [
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19,397 | When using a filament based printer, what operator behaviors increase the frequency at which a bed must be relevelled between prints? | [
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"text": "The only ones I have found are.\n\nManually putting pressure on the bed when removing prints.\n\nRemoving the bed... | 2022/05/18 | [
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19,400 | I just upgraded the nozzle (to 1 mm) on an Ender 3v2 and want to make a test print. I added a new printer for the new nozzle size.... and can't find a setting for it. Some screenshots on the internet show a nozzle diameter setting in the machine settings, but I do not have that. (**Manage printers** > **Printers** > **Machine Settings** > **Extruder 1**). Obviously, this was the first place I looked, and I also looked in the sidebar several times.
I have Cura 4.11.0 and am using the Ender 3 profile.
I've seen arguments about it's no longer a valid setting because line width is more important, I've seen discussions that you need to install some mods to get to that variable, and I've seen people say to make a custom printer and then you can change the nozzle diameter. I've also seen lots of people asking for help, and sometimes even posting "Oh I found it" later, but no details on where the setting is, why it's missing, etc.
<https://old.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/bw5d43/nozzle_diameter_settings_in_cura_40_missing/>
<https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21438-suggestion-easy-change-nozzle-size/> | [
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19,405 | I'm looking for a way to slice up a 3D model and then get the profiles of each individual layer. I need to 2D print the different layers (with the layer height that I define) for a Styrofoam craft.
Thank you very much! | [
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"text": "With OpenSCAD, you can `import` the STL file and apply `projection` with `cut=true` at succe... | 2022/05/20 | [
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19,409 | I recently had a print failure/crash, where the print stuck to the nozzle and forced molten filament back into the print head, fans, and heater block.
I changed the nozzle for a new 0.4mm same as existing. I shortened the bowden tube by ~8mm to remove some crispiness, and the push-lock connector on top of the print head, which was full of solidified PLA.
The hotend was scraped clean of PLA, and the wiring was inspected. The silicon sock was unhappy but I managed to get it to stay in place.
The part-cooling fan duct was deformed, but I have reshaped it as well as I could. The part-cooling air is probably slightly less than it was.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7eDR7.jpg)
I'm printing some Gridfinity bins, and the base just isn't filling in completely and there is also more stringiness.
The sides are not joining up at all, and are just a series of separate strands. They do merge somewhat at the corners.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1Rrx.jpg)
My printer worked much better before the crash - what do I have to focus on to improve this?
All print jobs since the reassembly are lower in quality, with one in three showing these large "wire bundles" look but all of them are not as good as before-prints. | [
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19,411 | Ender 3 Pro, PLA, temps 200 °C and 60 °C.
I want to not heat the nozzle until after Auto Bed Leveling (CR Touch) is complete. I can do that in the start G-code, but by then, Cura has already heated the nozzle to the temp specified under material and filament starts oozing out during bed leveling. I'd rather set a variable to that value and call it with `M104` when I'm ready.
This is the start of Cura's g-code:
```
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:2888
;Filament used: 1.96332m
;Layer height: 0.2
;MINX:93.266
;MINY:10.195
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:126.734
;MAXY:210.658
;MAXZ:4.2
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.13.1
M140 S60
M105
M190 S60
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Auto Bed Level (CR Touch)
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
...
```
The lines right after "Generated with Cura\_SteamEngine" are the ones I'd like to change but I can't find them in the Cura app. I know that 60 °C and 200 °C are the temps defined for bed and nozzle. Cura inserts them as constants for the `M140` and `M104` commands. I'd like Cura to set variables to those values (like `{bed_temp} = 60`) so I can refer to that variable when I insert the `M140` command in my Custom Start G-code. Can that be done?
A related question was asked a few years ago and part of the start code example then was:
```
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
```
The variable `{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}` was already set but I don't know where or how that was done. | [
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"text": "Go to the `Settings` -> `Printers` menu from the top menu,\n\n[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur... | 2022/05/21 | [
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19,434 | Are there SLA printable resins that can be printed with optical clarity and whose index of refraction make them potentially useful for optical applications? I would assume the surface may need polishing, and that's okay - I'm just asking whether the materials and process are otherwise suitable. | [
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19,440 | Printer: Elegoo Mars 3 LCD Resin printer
The letter height is about 3 mm.
I engraved a word (text) on the side of a cylinder (which is about 14 mm in diameter and 4 mm in height). I am not sure about the exact depth of the engraving (but should be about 0.5 mm but that's not important).
The text is easily readable and, at first glance, appears to have come out perfectly.
On second sight, however, the problem becomes obvious: The 3D printer didn't print the style of the font correctly (it's less **bold** than the font style chosen for the text and that's visible in Blender and Chitubox files).
Is that just what I have to accept or is there any way to improve on the result? | [
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19,450 | I have an Ender 3 Pro with the BTT SKR E3 V2.0 mini with Marlin firmware 2.0.8.2.x.
I am trying to print PETG, which requires decently high temperatures.
I initially replaced the stock board after a thermal runaway event that seemed to have damaged it. After installing the new board and getting all the settings dialed in (typically 260 °C hotend and 90 °C bed), it worked great for about 2 weeks until I got the thermal runaway event error again.
Here is what I have tried so far
* replaced the thermistor with [this](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08YNX79H8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1)
* replaced the heating cartridge with [this](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HGIMI2G?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
* replaced the hotend with [this](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09Y8VY5J8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) an all-metal one
* measured voltage coming from the power supply and coming out of the board going to heater cartridge (both ~24 V)
I PID tuned the printer using `M303 E0 S260 C10` and stored new PID values in EEPROM + firmware. A note, running this multiple times seemed to constantly increase the P and D values. I stuck with the initial values given (`kP 13.97 kI 0.84 kD 57.96`). I still continued to get thermal runaway events.
I then tested the heater cartridge and thermistor with my multimeter. The heater was 13.5 ohms which seems about right. I was unable to measure the thermistor value. Searching online shows I likely need a better multimeter to do so. It's possible it is bad, but I find that hard to believe considering this issue was happening prior to my replacing it.
[Example log](https://pastebin.com/Ykhqfpdc) of the failure happening. All I did was heat the printer up, leave it on for a bit, set it to cool down briefly, then tell it to heat up again. The printer was heated for ~5-8 minutes before this log starts.
Could this be the board again, or is there something else I'm missing? | [
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"text": "> \n> Recv: T:224.24 /**260.00** B:88.95 /**90.00** @:127 B@:127\n> \n> \n> \n\nYou are trying to achieve too much!\... | 2022/05/27 | [
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19,451 | I'm new to 3D printing and I was wondering about the risks of leaving my printer to print overnight? I'm aware that if something goes wrong I'll wake up to spaghetti for breakfast but what are the other things like having the nozzle and bed heated that long? And, when it's done it just sits there on so what could that do to the screen? What if the printer runs into some physical problem and damages itself and/or the print? I'm not looking for answers to these questions specifically just feedback on what I should do when printing overnight. | [
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19,458 | I'm having a lot of issues leveling my printer and one failed print came out like this. Is there something wrong with the surface that I need a new bed? This happens to me quite often and I literally can't get it off.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOVeZ.jpg "Magnetic bed with filament still stuck to bed") | [
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19,468 | I've tried printing in vase mode (or "spiralise outer contour" in Cura) and while the floor looks fine, the vertical sides look "saggy"
I'm using a 0.4 mm nozzle, with eSUN PLA+ at 218 °C and a bed temp of 60 °C. This combination works fine for normal printing. Layer height is 0.28 mm (Low Quality mode in Cura) with a line width of 0.4 mm
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVFyS.png)
Image is backlit by a monitor to show the laciness in the walls.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EnEB.png)
The original model was a 1x1x6 Gridfinity bin that uses less plastic than the original.
<https://thangs.com/designer/LittleHobbyShop/3d-model/%23gridfinity%20Vase%20Mode%20Single%20Box-65828>
---
Is this insufficient cooling, or too fast a print speed letting the filament sag under gravity before it cools? Or is a 0.4 mm nozzle too small?
This reminds me of brickwork where the mortar is too wet. The bits that work right look fine, but all four sides have bad parts.
What's the trick to vase mode printing? | [
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19,485 | I run a non-profit designed to expose high school students to 3D printing and entrepreneurship. The concept is based on pop-up shop-style sales of 3D printed trinkets, toys, artifacts, etc.
Can I legally sell models we print from the many open source and publicly available museum collections that are available on the internet? Example - a 3D scan of Rodub's "The Thinker" or the British Museum's publically available .stl of the Rosetta stone.
It is my understanding that these artifacts are in the public domain as they are much older than 1930 though the .stl scans may not be?
Keep in mind I am a fully licensed 501c3 non-profit organization.
Wondering if there are any good places to find fully licensed models that we could sell without having to worry about copyright infringement. | [
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"text": "Just read the license that comes with the STL. Most I have seen prohibit commercial use without permission.\n\n> ... | 2022/06/01 | [
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19,492 | I am currently adding a fillet to the base of an object (the plane that's touching the bed) and I was curious if the radius of the filet contributed to any mis-prints. I've had luck so far but was wondering if the intensity of the radius had mattered.
I am using the Ender3 Pro.
---
*I may do some test prints and see for myself and provide an answer to share experience .* | [
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"text": "> \n> wondering if the intensity of the radius had mattered.\n> \n> \n> \n\nYes it does if it's an overhang."
}... | 2022/06/03 | [
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19,507 | I recently bought a Creality Ender 3 V2. I have heard that it is best to use a raft when printing. I have tried to use a raft a few different times using PLA, with different settings each time. When I try to peel the raft off of the print, it will snap around the bottom of the print. Are there any recommended slicer settings or printer tips to help this? | [
{
"answer_id": 19512,
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19,519 | I recently ripped a piece off of a nitro RC car I have. Seeing as I cannot find a direct replacement at the moment, I modeled it and it seems easy to 3d print.
My main concern is how heat resistant the replacement will be - this is a combined structural/exhaust heat deflector piece.
I've previously known about 30-40% steel infused PLA, but looking at the reviews/overviews everyone states there is no structural advantage to steel/metal infused PLA.
That being said, are there any benefits at all, aside from styling? Temperature resistance, conductivity, stiffness, toughness? | [
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19,523 | I'm pretty new to 3D printing, got my printer about 5 days ago and spent most of my time with it.
First off, it is an Ender 3 Pro with everything stock, haven't made any upgrades except I run it with OctoPrint from a Raspberry Pi Zero but I have determined that's not the source of the problem as it's well within 80 % idle on its CPU.
The issue I'm experiencing is that the extruder starts slipping at some point along the print. It's not the clicky type of slipping that appears to be the common issue but rather it's just spinning and grinding on the filament which is remaining stationary. When this happens the printer continues on about its business as it's unaware that filament is not coming out. I move the Z-axis up, squeeze the extruder lever and try to push on the filament which is not budging, which made me think I had a clogged nozzle. I was surprised as it's a brand new printer but the internet says that nozzles clog up so I disassembled and cleaned it just to find that it happens again on my very next print. I noticed that when I pull or push on the filament by hand while squeezing the extruder lever - relieving pressure from the gear, it is quite hard to do so, even partly impossible as my fingers start to slip, I have to squeeze extremely hard or use pliers. I pulled the filament out using quite a bit of force, then snapped off the piece that was already in the tubing and inserted fresh filament which slid very easily through the white tubing to the hot end and when reaching it by pushing very gently I start to see filament coming out as opposed to pushing really hard and barely anything coming out previously. If I do that and return the Z-axis to its position then resume the print it continues until that happens again.
My bed is leveled as best as I can, I downloaded the bed leveling G-codes that help a lot to achieve good adhesion, my prints look pretty much perfect, smooth lines very pleasing to the look and touch, until what I mentioned above happens.
I don't understand what could be the reason that my filament would just bind up like that and snipping it off and inserting a new piece there's no sign of the issue whatsoever.
Notes for what it's worth:
* I'm using cheap black PLA 1.75 mm
* Hotend temperature 200 °C
* Bed temperature 60 °C
* Printing speed 50 mm/s
* The extruder pulley (white wheel with the bearing) bolt is not tightened to the end as recommended on the internet
* The spring bolt on the extruder is not tightened also, as I see there are marks on the filament that went past the extruder wheel, anyway I tried tightening it for the sake of it and it didn't help
* My extruder arm is not cracked
* The gear (brass wheel) doesn't seem to be damaged | [
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19,537 | I recently burnt out one of the MOSFETS on my RAMPS 1.4 board on my Sintron Kossel clone so have upgraded it to a RAMPS 1.6.
Now my printer seems to only print 50 % of the intended size.
After the machine homes it only comes down about 50 % of the distance and so starts printing in mid air.
I thought it might have been the driver steps? The DRV 8825 drivers are 32 steps instead of 16. I changed this value in the firmware but it didn't make any difference.
Any suggestions? | [
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"text": "Data from Firmware is not written into EEPROM on its own after updating your firmware. You need to send a `M502` to ... | 2022/06/11 | [
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19,541 | I printed a G1/8 thread in PLA where I can connect a compressor to have a small pressure container. Even though all measurements are correct and it screws in fine, it still leaks air.
Is there a way to make 3D prints airtight? | [
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"text": "Yes.\n\nThe issue is, that there are small gaps between the layers. But you can coat the print in an airtight mate... | 2022/06/12 | [
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19,547 | This is a continuation of [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19523/filament-not-being-extruded) where comments and answers were extremely helpful in diagnosing the issue, which I am still unable to solve.
I determined I have the problem shown in figure 3 on [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/what-are-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep). How I confirmed that is I started a print and monitored it closely. As soon as the filament stopped coming out I paused the print and pulled out the filament - it looked like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OO4oZ.png "Photo of filament with different sized diameter after being pulled from hotend")
I snipped the expanded part off and re-inserted the filament back in, hit resume print and it continued printing normally, except it had skipped a layer or two.
What I understand is there can be a few reasons for this problem:
1. Filament moving too fast and not being able to melt at the nozzle
2. Too much heat in the radiator block causes the filament to soften up and unable to be pushed by the incoming filament.
To combat case 1 I reduced the speed of the print using the knob down to 80 % which already felt like it is too slow, but that didn't seem to make a difference. I also tried printing at speeds of 85 %, 90 %, and 95 % as well and the problem occurred in all of them. So this leads me to believe that speed is probably not the issue.
I read that there could also be another thing causing case 1 and that is over-extrusion. To verify this I did the 100 mm extrusion test where I marked 0 mm and 100 mm and extruded 100 mm manually in steps of 0.1 mm. It took a while but eventually in the end I determined that it is under-extruding at 95 mm actual filament extruded which means there is less filament being pushed which should actually be working against the jam. I pulled the filament out after the test to see what it looks like and this was it:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bCDQp.png "Photo of filament with significantly different sized diameter")
Nevertheless, I adjusted my E-steps from 93 to 99 and repeated the 100 mm test again which this time was about 1 mm off (99 mm actual filament extruded) but I guess my markings could be off too so it should be good enough. I again checked the filament and it still had an expansion on the end.
At this point, I'm assuming that there is no issue with my extruder and print speed, so I'm on to case 2.
I tried printing at 180 °C but that had no effect.
I also tried printing without heating the bed as I read that could affect the cooling of the radiator as the fan will be blowing hot air, but that also didn't help and the filament seized.
I took the fan cover off and set the nozzle to 200 °C. After a few minutes, I measured the surface temperatures on the cooling block/radiator using a multimeter which showed 47 °C on the top-most fin and 65 °C on the bottom-most. I also tried reducing the nozzle to 180 °C and took measurements again which were pretty much the same with about a degree or 2 off. Ok so maybe something is fishy here because in [this video](https://youtu.be/ItJTrTX6HJw?t=308) you can see the temperatures he's reading are in the 35-40s range.
Just to confirm this was the problem I took quite a large home fan and directed it such that the stream is hitting the radiator from about 5 cm (this is while the hot end fan is not mounted with the screws but hanging on the side, which was also blowing at the radiator). I waited a couple of minutes and measured the temperatures again which this time showed 35 °C on the top and 50 °C on the bottom. That was as low as I could get it and the house fan was pretty strong. I extruded another 100 mm manually and this is what the filament looked like afterward:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/g12ZN.png "Photo of filament with a blob of filament a the end after being pulled from the hotend")
It still had a blob on the end and I'm pretty confident given more time it would clog up again.
Honestly, at this point, I feel like I've put way too much time and effort into resolving this issue and that is frustrating me as I fail to see any results.
I'm even more confused by the fact that I have had a couple of 3h prints go flawless, then out of the blue, it starts doing this problem. Sometimes it doesn't happen, sometimes it happens 3-5 times per print. I had an 8h print which went very well until the last 30 min when it clogged, thankfully I was around and I did the snipping procedure so the print finished but it is visible where it skipped a bunch of layers and has a weak spot.
It is quite annoying to have to babysit the printer like that and I'm really reaching out to anyone who'd be able to help me. | [
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19,553 | I am trying to create a two-piece snap-fit or joint using a 3D printer (Resin). After that, I plan to coat the joint with a conductive spray and create an electrical connection when the two pieces are joined together.
**Has this been done before? Are certain types of joint mechanism recommended?**
I will probably use carbon spray because it is cheaper than others. However, after the spray dries it can start to flake and thin, so I might need a couple of rounds of coating or something else. Any tips are appreciated.
However, more importantly is the joint mechanism - this is what I had in mind:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6t3Ef.png "Plastic ball joint example")
The signal would be a DC current only, in the µA range and the targeted resistance would be less than 20 Ω.
Can this work? If not, what are my alternatives? | [
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"text": "[Electroforming](https://www.instructables.com/Copper-Electroforming-on-3d-Printed-PLAABS-Objects/) is the proces... | 2022/06/13 | [
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19,558 | The object on the right is a basic C channel, the outer surface should be smooth but the first ~5 mm of filament is missing after every layer change. In this example, the missing filament is reasonably consistent and extreme. The object on the left (from the same print) has a seam where the filament is also missing but it was not a layer change so it is only missing 1-2 mm.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mepw9.jpg)
But when printing a benchy the gap is not as large and has different lengths. The other side of the Benchy looks great, this side has all of the seams on it.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5UIwH.jpg)
Details
* Anet A6 direct drive
* Marlin firmware with the latest Octoprint
* Heated enclosure, glass bed @ 60 °C
* eSun PLA, have used many cheaper brands all with the same issue
* Printing at 210 °C but have tested 180-220 °C
When printing an army of Benchys, I thought this was a retraction issue and test all sorts of settings with small increments but did not fix the issue. It was after printing this C channel that the issue was more clearly highlighted.
Things that I have attempted to resolve this
* Geomerty calerbration
* Extruder calerbration
* Filament temperature range tests
* Retraction distance and speed towers
* Retraction distance and temperature towers
* Disabling retraction (worth a short) - Disabling retraction during only Z hop (did nothing)
* Different version of Cura
* Different filament brands
Can not seem to figure out what the issue here is and have run out of ideas on what to do next. | [
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19,565 | I have an [all-metal V6 hotend clone](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GD8LCFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that has worked in the past, but recently will clog very easily.
I've tried the following to address it:
* Clean/replace the nozzle (0.4 or 0.5 mm, nozzle is hot-tightened)
* Ensure nozzle is tightened against the heat-break tube, not the heater block
* Adjust nozzle temperature higher/lower (190 °C to 230°C)
* Recalibrate extruder steps/mm
* Improve cold-end cooling with a 40mm fan (also, a 40 mm blower directly aimed at the fins did not help)
* Try different filaments, from different brands (all 1.75 mm PLA)
* Adjust slicer settings (speed, line width, layer thickness is usually ~0.2 mm) and even tried different slicers
* Reduce/eliminate retractions
* Replaced stock Ender 5 Bowden extruder with dual-gear setup for higher grip
* Replaced the thermistor (wire was getting worn from disassembling/reassembling)
Some things I've noticed:
* Prints tend to work fine for a while (~30 min to 1 hour or so), then the extruder is suddenly unable to push filament through the Bowden tube and begins to grind/click. There is very little to no period of reduced flow. It simply stops flowing completely.
* I am unable to push the filament through by hand to clear the clog, but pulling the filament out and trimming the end works
* The very end of the filament is the only place with any signs of being molten, well within the nozzle length itself
* Pushing and pulling the filament in the hot-end by hand works for very small retractions, but can instantly result in a clog if pulled too far back (a few mm)
* So far I have not seen particles / black buildup / other gunk that would explain the clogs
* Letting the filament sit in the hot-end for a few seconds is enough to make it much harder to extrude by hand until enough filament is pushed through to clear what's melted (sitting too long will make it clog), but there are still no signs of heat-creep beyond the nozzle length.
* I can always easily pull the filament out by hand after it jams (while still hot)
Examples of what the filament end looked like when a clog formed:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4g6yC.jpg "Filament 1")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXiBb.jpg "Filament 4")
Since the melted material is so short I don't think it's heat-creep. Maybe it's the (very cheap) nozzles themselves having inconsistent dimensions? Not being able to retract a few mm and re-extrude by hand seems pretty odd. I have ordered official E3D nozzles to try in case they are the culprit.
Any thoughts on what else it could be?
**Edit**: I had commented with the new nozzle being a solution, but unfortunately I spoke too soon. Using the E3D nozzle helped for prints that maintain a high enough flow-rate, but when printing small parts and/or multiple parts it seems that the flow rate becomes low enough to overheat the filament and clog (even with reduced print temp to 190 °C).
**Update**: While using the new nozzle and improving cold-end cooling with a blower aimed directly at the cold-end fins did help delay the clogging a little, it did not prevent it. It seems unrealistic to say that this is traditional heat-creep since the fins were cold to the touch and the length of deformed, clogged filament is even shorter than before (<5 mm). | [
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19,577 | I just acquired a new Creality Ender 5 Pro. It was assembled very easily. Today I tried my first print - the Dog demo that came on the MicroSD just to see how it worked. It is a 2.5 hour print.
While I was preheating there was a thermal runaway error while I was feeding the filament up through the tube. I restarted the machine and began the print. The error repeated 6 more times during the print. Each time I reset the machine by cycling the power (there were no instructions for a reset) and I was able to resume the printing.
I have been sitting here while this thing goes so as to be able to restart if necessary. It will be a real drag when I try to print anything larger. I feel as though I cannot leave the machine alone.
The bed seems to hold steady at 45 °C. The nozzle is set to 200 °C (the default on the display) for PLA. It seems to lag a bit sometimes going as low as 196 °C. I suspect this is normal as it is being fed cold filament. When I restart almost immediately, the nozzle starts with a temp of about 140 °C and takes a few minutes to get hot enough to resume the print.
What is going on? | [
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19,611 | I'm trying to set up a Creality Sprite Extruder on my Ender 3 Pro without using the kit (installing the extruder alone).
I can see [here](https://store.creality.com/products/sprite-extruder-pro-kit-300%E2%84%83-printing?official-website-top=&spm=..product_0f7e137a-4505-43ca-958f-022f372863a0.products_display_1.1) that the extruder operates at 1.4VDC and 0.8A.
I'm using TMC2208 and Klipper. How can I set my extruder's driver up so that the provided voltage is 1.4V? Is it the same as setting the VRef to 1.4V?
Can it be done in the Klipper config (I have UART set up) or does it need to be done on the trimpot?
Thanks | [
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19,617 | I bought an Ender 3 recently and it has the 4.2.2 Creality board. Then I bought a BLTouch to upgrade it with bed leveling. It turns out that the BLTouch now comes with a standard 5-pin connector instead of the separate wires that all the tutorials talk about. How do I install the thing? | [
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19,627 | I am on the hunt for CAD packages which can perform some level of slicing as an inherent model feature, instead of either exporting to STL and then importing into the slicer (a la OnShape) or directly opening the slicer from within the software (a la Fusion 360). I would like this because I want to model directly for the print instead of having to go through an iterative process where certain tools cannot be used to their fullest extent.
For instance, it's very easy for me to print a model, measure it to quantify shrink, and then backport required changes into my CAD model. However, this is not ideal as it prevents me from analyzing the model before print. (For instance, using the CAD software to calculate mass, C.G., moment of inertia, or doing mechanical and thermal analysis on the printed shape, not the modeled solid.)
In a perfect world, I'd have the ability to run Cura as an operation on the model. The resulting CAD would then include the infill structures as well as any required modifications to the original part, e.g. a discrepancy between the desired height and the printed height or a wall width vs the nozzle width.
Is there anything out there which fits the bill? I know nothing is perfect, but anything right now would be a big step forward. | [
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19,632 | Is there any known site where you can input your 3D printer's information and it will show you all G-code files uploaded to that site and would have a download button? If not, it's not a huge deal. It's just that I can't find my computer, therefore can't use a slicer. | [
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19,645 | In Creality slicer, which settings would you change to reduce the amount of surface area from the supporting structure that makes contact with overhangs on the model you are printing.
For example, if you are printing the object pictured below, and the green area is the support structure, and the red area is the overhang that requires supporting, how would you decrease the amount of green that touched the red?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyX7Q.jpg)
I'm asking about dialing back the surface area contact on "any" style of support, not choosing between different styles of support | [
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19,652 | To start with, as stated in the title, I am very new to 3D printing.
We're a toy/boardgame shop and we're experimenting with 3D printing because it could open up a huge market for us. To this end, I'm asked to try to get this off the ground, but also for me it's a big experiment.
General Information
-------------------
**Printer:** Craftbot Plus
**Slicer:** CraftwarePro (1.1.4.368)
**Filament:** PLA - 1.75 mm
**Designed in:** Tinkercad
Problem
-------
I designed a puzzle box in Tinkercad. Here are some images of the design:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VA4j3.png "Screenshot of puzzle box designed in Tinkercad")
I've printed it twice, but both have some problems. I made some pictures, hopefully showing the flaws clearly.
#### Print 1
This print actually came out pretty ok, but not the quality I'm looking for.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeFkM.jpg "Photo 1 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOst8.jpg "Photo 2 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxaPx.jpg "Photo 3 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer")
#### Print 2
For some reason, this one came out way worse in my opinion. I didn't change any settings. The reason why I made this second print is that there are some design flaws in the first print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/x35Wf.jpg "Photo 1 of a printed model #2 with printing errors")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lq7Cx.jpg "Photo 2 of a printed model #2 with printing errors")
As you might be able to tell, this one has some more severe problems, like the prolapse on one of the corners of the lid and some threads that just seem to be broken off here and there.
Question
--------
My question is basically, what is likely to be the problem, and how should I solve them. Are there some settings on the printer, or in the slicer that needs to be changed? Or could it be something with the design, for example, would it be better to have the lids laying down on the bed, instead of standing up as I have them in the design right now?
Also, here and there seem to be threads of plastic where I think there should not be any.
What have I found myself
------------------------
Since I'm very new to this, I wasn't really sure what to search/look for. I know it's expected to do some research yourself before posting any question, but I really didn't have a clue where to start.
Though, while typing in the question, 2 suggestions showed up:
#### Suggestion 1
[I have bad print quality, what should I do?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13433/i-have-bad-print-quality-what-should-i-do)
I'm not sure this looks like any of my problem areas, but somewhat similar.
### Suggestion 2
[Bad quality at horizontal faces](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13856/bad-quality-at-horizontal-faces)
This looks very much similar to how some of my areas look. Is the problem described in this post indeed the same as mine, based on the pictures?
#### Conclusion
In both posts, *"Under Extrusion"* is mentioned this is probably something to look into?
Some personal observations
--------------------------
There are 2 things I noticed myself, maybe some conclusions can be made from this:
1. Something else I'm noticing while heating up the extruder is that plastic already leaks out in a very thin thread before it actually starts printing.
2. When the print is done, I notice thin threads of plastic between the different objects (Like a spiderweb), this probably has something to do with point 1.
3. When the printer is starting, I notice that the very first threads of plastic are not a fluent string, but sometimes get interrupted, as if no plastic is coming out of the extruder for a short moment.
Conclusion
----------
Hopefully, I provided every information that is required to answer this question properly. I'm looking forward to any offered assistance.
In case any additional information is required, I'm happy to give this next time I'm at the office.
*P.S. I had to remove 6 links (pictures) to get to my maximum of 8* | [
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19,657 | Lately I've been having a lot of trouble with printing overhangs in TPU. The failures are very geometry/toolpath dependent, entirely reproducible in their location (same gcode gives same failures each time it's printed), and seem to occur where there is a convex (model-inward) curve over an overhang of more than 40° or so. My original test case for this was frog model with more severe overhang, but I since made a simplified conical overhang test piece at only 50° that's faster to reprint and shows the issue:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Ny6d.jpg)
The frog print on the left is pretty much a complete failure. The one on the right is mostly a success, but shows some moderate flaws around one side (left, as viewed) and the front of the belly, and even slight flaws (hard to see in pic) around the other side of the belly. It was done using some of the mitigations described below.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ei5Lh.jpg)
The test piece on the left is nearly perfect. The other two show varying degrees of the overhang problem I'm experiencing, and make it easier to see what exactly is happening than with the frog. The extrusion seems to bunch up, then get stretched out too thin, in an oscillating pattern that builds up and shifts with each layer.
I've tried printing overhangs significantly slower and reducing speed and acceleration quite a bit on the outer walls and even on the inner walls too, and none of that seems to help. Nor does increasing the number of walls or the wall line thickness help. However a number of things do seem to help, and it takes two or more of these in combination to get a mostly acceptable result at 0.2 mm layer height:
* Increasing flow to a level where the extruded mass is the expected amount (this makes wall dimensions excess so I usually don't do it)
* Taking the infill up to 20% or higher and using an infill pattern where the infill meets the walls frequently (gyroid 20% or more seems best; I'm trying not to do this because I want to final objects to be more flexible in some cases)
* Increasing Klipper square corner velocity to 30+ so that the entire approximated curves are traversed at constant speed with no acceleration/deceleration
* Increasing Klipper PA smooth time window from 10ms to 40ms
Generally I'm able to choose some subset of the above that works, but it ends up being a matter of per-model trial-and-error, wasting lots of time and materials if the settings don't work, so I'd like to figure out what's really going on here so I can make predictions about what will work and ideally get a base configuration that "always" works. Also, I still don't have this working at thinner layer heights, which I'd like to be able to use for better detail, as TPU is flow-bound not motion-bound and I could in theory print much higher detail at the same speed with thinner layers.
My best guess at the root cause so far is that the overhanging walls simply do not have enough rigidity to avoid being displaced by the toolhead attempting to extrude against them, so any oscillation of the toolhead velocity or extrusion pressure causes them to deform in the pattern of the oscillation. Does this seem plausible, and if so, what might some other possible mitigations be?
For completeness, my printer is a heavily modified Ender 3 with (remote) direct drive extruder and fairly extreme cooling, but turning the cooling way down or even off (assuming sufficient layer time for passive cooling) does not seem to affect the behavior here significantly. So I think the question is mostly printer-agnostic and is really a matter of material behavior and slicing. | [
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19,659 | I'm a beginner in 3d printing, so please bear with me.
I downloaded a zip with about 100 STL files. I now want to pick one or two to print. The names of the stl files are not very helpful so I need to look at them to find the ones I want. I can open all of them one by one using Cura, or Tinkercad, but that is a very slow and long process with so many files. Ideally I would like to have an overview of all the files in little previews so that I can get an idea what they are to narrow down which files I need to open to inspect the details.
Is there a program with which I can do something like that? I'm on Linux, but tips about Windows/Mac software would also help since I can use it to search for Linux alternatives to that software. All tips are welcome! | [
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19,666 | I've just bought my first 3D printer (Malyan M200 V2). For the most part, it's been really good and I've had no issues, apart from when printing the first few layers the printer doesn't seem to extrude enough material and doesn't form the correct shape. Whether it's a circle, rectangle, or anything else. So for example I've printed the below part.
The raft prints perfectly:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXKQh.jpg "Photo of a printed raft")
Then when it starts the first few layers of the actual print it extrudes a bit of material which then hangs from the nozzle and is dragged about the surface of the raft before stopping as more material is extruded. So when the print finishes the first layer looks messy like the one below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2uoq.jpg "Photo of the first layer of a printed model showing printing errors")
But everything after the first few layers is perfect for example the top of the same print:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/A71OY.jpg "Photo of the layers after the first of a printed model that doesn't showing any errors")
I've tried adjusting the temperature of the nozzle and the print bed neither has made a difference. The bed is level I've double-checked that. Trying to find the issue online keeps bringing me back to temperature or bed levelling.
I'm using this [PrimaValue PLA Filament](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N5SVFJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
The leaflet in the box recommends printing at 210 °C, I've tried 210, 215, and 220 °C.
The print bed I've been keeping at 60 °C which seems to have been working but I've tried printing down to 45 °C on the print bed and the same issue occurs. I'm not sure what an ideal temperature is for PLA, I've seen some posts saying that a heated bed isn't needed for PLA and others saying that it should be heated to between 50-70 °C (my printer only heats up to 60 °C).
I've looked at some of the settings in Cura and there are various settings for things like initial speed and first/last layer speed which sound like they might help but I don't know anything about them. I have tried slowing down the print but again I just watched it happen more slowly, albeit that did help some as that's when I've realised it doesn't appear to be pushing out enough material on the first few layers. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. | [
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19,671 | I've created a little enclosure for a project in sketchup
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8AB9.png)
I then exported the .STL
When I open it in Creality slicer 4.8 or Cura 5.0 It looks like this
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD4eb.png)
I thought that the red was "overhang that needs support" (but can also mean a shell?)
Hoever, that's not the irritating part. That would be the grey in the middle where the "hole" should be.
When I slice it, it looks like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ew0yy.png)
I didn't notice this before I started printing and 4 hours into the print I noticed that it was just completely ignoring the window and was considering it as a part of the base.
Why is it doing this and how can I fix it?
I've tried editing the original sketchup model a number of times, but I keep getting the same result.
I read the question and answer at [Empty space in model is getting filled](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5068/empty-space-in-model-is-getting-filled) but I'm not 100% sure that this is the solution I'm looking for.
The slicer, knows enough to see that the hole should be there, as it is rendering in a shaded area. It feels like there is a setting or some such that is "print the shaded area" with a checkbox (on or off) - and if that setting is there, someone please tell me where to find it!
I've also tried importing the STL into other programs (like fusion 360) and RE-exporting the STL, but the issue persists.
---
*Please note that [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13352/sketchup-designed-block-with-hole-printed-solid-in-cura) seems to be similar to mine, however, there isn't an accepted answer. The one provided below is actually a much better answer.* | [
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19,673 | The print is a collapsible sword I'm using as a test. Everything seems fine on the outside, but inside it seems the segment parts of the sword inside the hilt are fusing together at the seam lines causing them to stick together.
**Model**: <https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Collapsing%20Katana-22696>
**Finished Print** (looks fine)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZa3o.jpg)
**Concentric blade pieces** (fuse marks that I sheared off and broke to get out)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/peViY.jpg)
**Seams on exterior of hilt look great**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2dxXC.jpg)
**Print settings/info**
**Printer**: Prusa MK3S+
**Slicer**: PrusaSlicer 2.5.0a3
**Settings preset**: 0.15 mm QUALITY
**Filament**: Prusa PLA
**Nozzle temp**: 205 °C (default is 215 °C, but lower eases stringing and has never been a problem for many past prints)
**Nozzle size**: 0.4 mm
**Full config**: <https://pastebin.com/ECa6KkYK> | [
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