qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
19,680 | I’ve a Flashforge Adventurer 3 which I’ve found to be a fantastic out of the box ready to go printer. I’ve clocked up 500 hours on it.
I’ve had issues where the nozzle was too close to the print bed, making it impossible for the extruder wheel to force filament down the bowden tube. With harder filaments that results in clicking as it’s cog is skipping. With softer, usually matte PLA it’s just wearing a groove and no longer pushing. I have to take the then baked filament and manually push it out of the nozzle, then bed recalibration.
I have a filament dryer, and use it every time I’m printing as it’s a perfect dispenser with it’s roller bearings.
I recently keep getting prints where they start out perfect, but then after about layer 10, the extrusion simply stops. The printer obviously carries on like all is ok, but there’s not even spaghetti.
What could this be? Do I just need a new nozzle? I don’t understand how a metal nozzle printing plastic can deteriorate it. It’s not the same as pitting you get in a soldering iron tip surely…
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IdDcQ.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EFz2Q.jpg) | [
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"text": "Nozzles do degrade with use. That is why they're made to be easily replaceable.\n\nYour problem may be a worn noz... | 2022/07/21 | [
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19,689 | Are there any safety risks inherent to PLA plastics used for 3D printing?
The material safety data sheet of some PLA plastics indicates low risks at a toxicological level, but I'd like to make sure some other factor isn't overlooked.
([1](https://printparts.com/datasheets/PLA-MSDS.pdf), [2](https://www.nhh.com.hk/en/3dprinting/document/pla_classic/MSDS_PLA_Classic.pdf), [3](http://wwwassets.e-ci.com/PDF/SDS/CI-D-07-PLA-3D-Printing-Filament.pdf))
>
>
>
> ---
>
>
> SECTION 11: TOXICOLOGICAL INFORMATION
>
>
> ---
>
>
> PRINCIPLE ROUTES OF EXPOSURE: Eye contact, Skin contact, Inhalation, Ingestion.
> ACUTE TOXICITY: None noted during use.
> LOCAL EFFECTS: Product dust may be irritating to eyes, skin and
> respiratory system. Particles, like other inert materials, are
> mechanically irritating to eyes. Ingestion may cause gastrointestinal
> irritation, nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.
>
>
> SPECIFIC EFFECTS: May cause skin irritation and/or dermatitis.
> Ingestion may cause gastrointestinal irritation, nausea, vomiting and
> diarrhea. Inhalation of dust may cause shortness of breath, tightness
> of the chest, a sore throat and cough. Burning produces irritant
> fumes.
>
>
> CHRNOIC TOXICITY: None noted during use.
>
>
> REPRODUCTIVE TOXICITY: No data is available on the product itself.
>
> CARCINOGENIC EFFECTS: None of the components of this product are
> listed as carcinogens by IARC, NTP, or OSHA.
>
>
> | [
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"text": "Extrusion of PLA through a nozzle can cause microparticles to be generated (referenced as \"dust\" in your docu... | 2022/07/22 | [
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19,710 | I am new to 3D printing. I own jewelry stores and want to 3D print my jewelry packaging for rings, necklaces, and bangles as in the picture below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NVwgE.png "Product photo of a jewelry ring box")
I have two main problems:
1. Is 3D printing capable of building this package?
2. I know I can build boxes for jewelry with the outside being made of plastic. But I want the inside to be like a sponge. Is there a filament or a way to print a filament to make it look like cloth or a sponge?
3. Are there printers on the market which are able to print several copies without the need to set up each time it finishes a single box? | [
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"text": "With the right materials\n========================\n\nWith the right material, you can get flexible surfaces and pri... | 2022/07/31 | [
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19,712 | I'm quite new to 3D CAD and printing.
I own a Dremel 3D45 and I use FreeCad / Ultimaker Cura as softwares.
My question is pretty simple.
Say you have to make one object with a pin and another with a hole. They should be coupled together. Of course if you set the diameters of the pin and the hole equal the won't fit!
Right now I'm setting the hole larger of 0.2 mm and the pin smaller of 0.2 mm. This allow a quite good coupling (not so hard but with some resistance).
I guess this tolerance (0.4 mm in my example) depends on a lot of variables: 3D printer settings, material, etc... so it may change using different setup.
How to correctly handle this?
Should I add a variable in my CAD spreadsheet and use it to change the nominal diameter of the coupling items?
I don't think so, but anyway: is there a settings in Ultimaker Cura that allow to compensate an hole or a pin by a specified amount?
Any other suggestion is gladly accepted. | [
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"text": "> \n> I guess this tolerance (0.4 mm in my example) depends on a lot of variables: 3D printer settings, materi... | 2022/07/31 | [
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19,721 | A couple of days ago I got my first 3D printer: Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro. I finished assembling it last night. I booted it up, but ran into problems (which I guess is not a common thing for a beginner in 3D printing). After booting and running the motors, it seemed that the lead screw got stuck about halfway down the Z-axis. I heard a rattling sound. So I turned the 3D-printer off. I disassembled the lead screw and applied some Lithium lubricant on it. But the problem persisted. Looking more closely at it, I noticed some notches on the lead screw:
I tried to spin the Creality Z-axis stepper motor, and it felt smooth and did not have any resistance. The bolts on the rod holder were slighly loose so that the lead screw had a bit of play inside.
Im wondering if the lead screw may have been defect during manufacturing process? Are lead screws supposed to have notches like these, or are these manufacturing defects? Here's two photos of the lead screw:
Im guessing the notches are too deep for the z-axis to actually work the way it is supposed to. | [
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"text": "The notches are certainly abnormal. The screw appears to have taken an impact from a narrow cylindrical object. I... | 2022/08/03 | [
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19,739 | What slicers have support for belt printers like the CR-30? Or what slicers can have an add-on, plugin, or extension added to them to support it (from a user level, not a dev level).
I found more total slicers than I expected, since I was only expecting 3 (Cura, PrusaSlicer, Simplify3d). Surely that means I'm missing out on more, if there are already so many different slicers.
* Creality Slicer - Comes from the OEM of the printer
* Blackbelt Cura - Everyone who mentions it says don't use it because it's old
* Raise3d Ideamaker - Seems to be based on Flashforge's slicer, has some interesting features too. Not as configurable as Slic3r or PrusaSlicer though. | [
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"text": "I think most slicers don't distinguish printers based on if they have belts or delta configuration, etc. The ... | 2022/08/08 | [
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19,740 | I'm printing a ring that's a replacement for the non-slip base of a mixing bowl. The ring is about 130mm in diameter, with a rectangular cross section, like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cx9Y.png)
I'm using Cura as the slicer, and I've set the infill to 100% and `concentric`, but after slicing it looks like Cura used `lines` instead; the ring is filled with parallel straight lines:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEfXF.png)
Is this a problem with Cura? Is there something I can do to encourage it to use concentric infill? I don't really care what the infill pattern is, but I think `concentric` would print a lot faster since the head wouldn't have to switch directions all the time. | [
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"text": "> \n> Is this a problem with Cura?\n> \n> \n> \n\nI don't know if the good folks at Ultimaker consider this a bug or... | 2022/08/08 | [
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19,751 | With a fan cooled, all metal hotend, is there any reason to wait for the hotend to cool, before shutting down power, if the filament has been unloaded?
When leaving the filament on the machine after a print, I’m normally in the habit of waiting until the hotend has cooled down below the filament’s glass temperature before turning the printer off, because without the hotend fan running and the heat block hot, the filament can get softened up in cold end and potentially jam next time. But if there is no filament, would it stand to reason there isn’t enough remaining plastic in the hotend to get heat creep? And it doesn’t matter if the cold end gets hot? | [
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"text": "While heat creep as you describe it *is* a concern, The more pressing reason to let a hotend cool off first is *... | 2022/08/11 | [
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19,756 | On my Ender 3 v2 printer I recently and consistently get some knocking.
This happens in only two scenarios.
First, it now occurs all the time when printing the initial test strip gets near the top (high Y value), and knocks several times.
Secondly, it occurs if the model (sliced with Cura) has a high Y value (eg: if the model occupies most of the bed).
(If there is room and I move the model - in Cura - closer to the front there is no knocking.)
On the first 10 (or so) layers the printer sometimes knocks when a high Y value is reached and the entire model is thereafter shifted to the front by a few millimeters.
There is a third scenario. At the end of a print the print head is in the middle of the bed and moves up 20 mm then travels directly to the top left corner. At this corner there are 4 or 5 "knocks" (and the nozzle is 20 mm above the bed).
Any suggestions to diagnose/fix this problem will be much appreciated. | [
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"text": "Your bed has become unleveled or skewed in Y direction.\n\nWhen the nozzle is closer to the bed the extruder has to ... | 2022/08/12 | [
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19,763 | I'm using an Ender 5 with standard PLA and Creality slicer 4.8.2.
How can I deliberately maximise stringing, and if possible get it to be as consistent as possible.
My aim is to have "thousands of hair like threads strung between two rocky pillars".
If possible I'd like to do this in the slicer with PLA, rather than using cotton or some other material after the model has printed. | [
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"text": "Slicers will perform a retraction when moving from one solid to another, the value of which is part of the settin... | 2022/08/14 | [
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19,768 | I have 12 parts for a model I want to print but I would like to know if I can put all of them in a single G-code file and print that on its own. Would this affect the model in any way?
I’m using PLA on my Ender 3 Pro | [
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"text": "This answer assumes FDM printing -- for resin printers, as I understand it, as long as there's flow space bet... | 2022/08/15 | [
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19,784 | I recently purchased a spool of PETG to try working with it. I have managed to dial in most of the settings in Prusaslicer but one, in particular, is giving me a problem. As seen in the photo, the clip I printed has extra extrusion on the inside and outside. I have noticed that the nozzle will pause at the seam for about 5 secs before continuing. (The bottom is not Elephant's foot, I just didn't clean off all the brim)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WlK7I.jpg "Photo of the front and back of a 3D printed clip showing extra extrusion")
I positioned the seam on the inside of the model. I know that the extra extrusion is caused by the seam but why would it also appear on the outside of the model?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RwLE.png "Screenshot of the Prusaslicer Preview of the model showing the seam and retractions")
I have printed the same clip in PLA without any printing errors. What setting within Prusaslicer needs to change so I can get rid of the extra plastic on the inside and outside of the print?
[I don't know what relevant print settings are needed to solve this problem, but will edit the question when I get some guidance.] | [
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"text": "Looks like **Retract at layer change** is causing this. Disable that and see. This will help you to improve the... | 2022/08/18 | [
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19,789 | I did my homework reading similar questions, like [this](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8296/petg-sticking-to-nozzle), [this](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7122/petg-filament-doesnt-stick-reliably-to-fake-buildtak-surface) and [this](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/722/petg-collecting-on-the-extruder).
Here a video that shows the issue:
The filament is PETG from [JAYO](https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B08BRDT3X8/) and the printer is a Dremel 3D45.
As you can see, the filament does not stick on the buildplate. The manufacturer suggests to use 220-250 °C for the nozzle and 70-80 °C for the bed.
Here what I tried so far:
* add purple glue from Dremel
* bed temperature from 70 to 80 °C
* nozzle temperature from 235 to 250 °C (below 230 °C it does not come out from the nozzle at all)
* print speed from 50 to 70 mm/s
* nozzle gap from 0.0 to 0.4 mm (in step of 0.1 mm). The video was taken with the maximum gap. When the gap is lower, almost all the filament sticks to the nozzle
* fan speed from 0 % to 50 %
* the filament is inside a filament dryer
* clean up the nozzle
* before each print I level and calibrate the buildplate
Honestly I don't know what to do further.
From your experience what should I do to avoid what you see in the video? | [
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"text": "Your nozzle is very much too high to properly print just about any filament. If the filament sticks to the nozzle ... | 2022/08/19 | [
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19,797 | I am interested in references to designs which use a customized support instead of the slicer's default normal/tree support.
The background is this: I am making a hubcap with a 3D logo. I do not want to place the logo on the print bed because the logo will become very messy. So, I place the rim of the hubcap on the bed. This means that a lot of support is needed. With support = normal the print time taken is 36.5 hours using 290 g of filament. With support = tree the time taken is 29.5 hours using 200 g of filament. In comparison, with support = none the time taken is 14.5 hours using 115 g of filament, but of course is not practical. So, I decided to make my own support and I manually inserted it at a specified layer - just below the top disk and the logo above it. The design included some small brackets to hold the support. The time taken and amount of filament is the same as no support - about half the time & amount for tree support! Here is what the support looks like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TfeLg.png)
I intended to snip away the mesh, but it blends in quite well with the layer above it. (Perhaps a finer mesh is easier to remove.)
I am interested to know of others who have designed customized supports. | [
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"text": "In this situation I probably wouldn't use supports at all.\n\nI'd put something round on the bed that fits the sp... | 2022/08/20 | [
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19,803 | I know that 3D printed parts can be coated in metal by painting them with conductive paint (graphite or copper seems to be usual) and then electroplating them in a commercial copper or nickel bath. The disadvantage of this process is that it does not coat insides very well, because those are not reached by the electric field.
I know that in the industry for plating ABS-parts with chrome and other metals, there is a process used where first the ABS is etched, then seeded with electroless catalytic palladium and then there are various options, for example electroless nickel or chrome.
I tried to etch both FDM printed ABS and ABS-like resin prints in NaOH, then after rinsing, dropped them in a commercial palladium activator and, after rinsing again, then in an electroless nickel bath, without any effect.
Does anyone have an idea on how to metal plate 3D printed parts (by electroless plating, meaning no electricity involved) and can shed some light on the chemicals used? I would prefer to mix them myself. | [
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"text": "There is another option where the plating is done like brushing paint. The electroplating is just done a differen... | 2022/08/20 | [
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19,807 | I'm very new to 3D printing. When my printer was new, I got loads of really good prints, however, now they're all failing.
I suspected that the nozzle was in bad shape, so I replaced it, but even now, the prints are still quite bad.
I suspect that the filament is not coming out properly. (extruding?)
I have a Creality Ender CR6 SE. and I'm using Overture Matte White PLA. I've tried using the default 200 °C nozzle and 60 °C print bed temperatures and I've also tried on the upper end of the recommended temperatures at 230 °C and 70 °C.
I've also tried reducing the print speed to 70 %.
Here is a picture of the first layer of a raft:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQdGD.png)
And here's a picture of a few layers in (still of the raft):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqnSe.jpg)
Just before this print I did an auto-level and cleaned the printbed with warm soapy water.
This is the print if I leave it going:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7TBDn.jpg)
Additional Info: I used the auto-level feature on the CR 6 SE before any of the pictures and used Cura Slicer for slicing.
When using the hairspray method, I managed to get a print out - that print is a 3D Benchy:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdXfj.png)
Not looking too good. Also - as you can see, I used a different filament.
Using the hairspray again, I tried printing this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vN9i5.png)
But ended up with this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSSmF.png)
**UPDATE 3**
Ok, So I've found something that's probably not a good thing and I need some advice on it. I think the problem is with the print bed. I found that it can wobble. If I put slight pressure on the front of the bed, the front goes down and the back goes up. Not by much, but there's definite give.
When I print a big circle, the left of the circle is "thinner" than it should be, unless I push down slightly on the print bed. If I do that, then the print thickness on that part of the bed seems to be correct.
However, if I keep that pressure while the nozzle goes around then the print loses adhesion. As soon as I release the pressure and the print bed goes back to what it was, then the print regains adhesion (on that side).
However, if I leave it like that, then the nozzle will be too close to the bed on the other side again.
Now I know. This is a tramming (leveling - are these words completely synonymous?) issue, but when I paid extra for the auto-leveling with the Ender CR6 SE, I paid that extra so that I wouldn't need to mess around with stuff like this. Is this money wasted?
Print nozzle too close on the left, too far on the right:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rMBag.png)
**Should I contact Creality and try to return the printer and get a cheaper one that I'm going to have to manually level/tram anyway?** | [
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"text": "It almost looks like that nozzle is too far away from the bed. Try releveling your bed."
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"answer_i... | 2022/08/21 | [
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19,813 | I thought the answer was ABS, but I read about how some people used it to print parts that were used in plumbing, and they failed when put under constant load, and some said that PETG is better for this application. I want to print bases for my table legs, would PETG be a better material to use? | [
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"text": "It almost looks like that nozzle is too far away from the bed. Try releveling your bed."
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"answer_i... | 2022/08/23 | [
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19,825 | I wanted to build a 4-wheel ground robot vehicle with a payload of 25 kg for outdoor use, but I wanted to make the frame/chassis using a 3D printer. The outside temperature ranges between 30 °C-35 °C and the humidity is 70-90%. I think the vehicle would be outside for 4 hours at a time. The dimensions of the vehicle would be about 1.0 m x 0.8 m x 0.8 m (LxWxH). From other stack exchange questions and some reading online, my choices have come down to ASA, PC, and Nylon. It's important that the printed part doesn't deform outside. I think I'm leaning towards Nylon for tensile strength, toughness, and heat deflection, but I don't know how the Nylon printed part will hold in high humidity.
Has anyone had experience with Nylon in the outdoor conditions I mentioned? Was it difficult to print a large surface area Nylon part (I'm thinking of printing with the filament directly coming out of an active dryer)? Which bed surface were you using? Would you recommend any other filaments? | [
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19,828 | The Benchy looks good for the most part except for some boogers on the chimney
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fV2oD.jpg "Photo of a printed Benchy with zits on the chimney")
And some stringing on the bow, near the front deck.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EimB6.jpg "Photo of the top of a printed Benchy with minor stringing problems")
Here are my settings. On another roll of Inland PETG, I printed a Benchy at 30 mm/s and it came out perfect. Is there any way to improve my results at higher speeds? Maybe 4 or 5 for retraction and/or faster retraction speeds? I figure I ask before taking shots in the dark. I was told to not go below 235 °C for PETG so that seems like lowering the temperature is out of the question.
Any ideas? Below are my settings.
The printer is a Sovol Sv01 Pro (this is similar to an Ender 3 S1)
* direct drive extruder
* Creality silent board
* CR Touch
* Marlin 2.0
* hot end like and Ender 3 Pro with an MK8
* PEI sheet
* K value 2.0 - this was the factory setting
All the parts are pretty new since I bought the printer on an Amazon Prime day about a month ago.
Settings (using Inland PETG - Yellow):
* a few days ago it had a 6hr session in a filament dryer
* 235 °C nozzle
* 70 °C bed
* retraction 3.0 mm
* print speed 40 mm/s
* print acceleration 500 mm/s
* jerk 12 mm/s | [
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19,833 | I'm attaching a picture to show my issue. I'm hoping might be an easy settings fix, or at least maybe someone has a couple suggestions I can try. I'm using an Ender 3, and the program Cura. The print on the left was printed with the opening facing up. The print on the right with the hole facing down. The support leaves a rough surface. Any suggestions for support settings would be appreciated. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AnkLP.jpg) | [
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19,836 | I want to make some prints of pressure resistants. I am currently trying to print a simple cylinder to find the best parameters to make my prints airtight (by airtight I mean, it needs to resist to 10 bar).
Here is the test model that I have made for this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IQyNO.png "Screenshot of a model for a pressure resistant")
Here are the parameters that I have changed in Cura:
* layer height: 0.1 mm
* infill : 100 %
* print temp: 250 °C (high temp to make the layers stick between them)
* wall line count: 5
* infill overlap: 40 %
* flow: 115 %
But all these changes in Cura don't give good results for ABS. It's not even airtight at 2.5 bar:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rt0B8.jpg "Photo of pressure resistant under water producing bubbles; not airtight")
And here is a mid-cut of the print :
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkNP6.jpg "Photo of pressure resistant cut in two to show internal structure")
Do you have any ideas/suggestions to have better results? Can it be from the ABS itself? There is a sort of white powder between the layers, is this normal for ABS? Should I try using PETG? What could I change in my parameters? | [
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19,846 | I am trying to create a couple of holders for my ultrasonic cleaners. They are supposed to be used for parts that don't fit in the holder that came with the cleaners. I was wondering what material is best to use for this.
My initial thoughts are:
* Material should hold up to the cleaning solution, I have a wide range of them from degreaser, deruster, and so on. I would say PETG or PLA should be a safe bet as it reacts with almost nothing
* Material should not have issues with warm (not hot) water, I'd say something along the lines of 60-80 °C. This already eliminates PLA, but I think PETG should still be OK-ish (I am aiming more towards 60 °C than 80 °C).
Is there something I am missing? Does anyone have any input? I am anyway just going to do a few tests, but I assume starting with PETG is a good start. | [
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19,855 | I am working with a bunch of Makerbot Replicator+ printers and one Z18 in a classroom. I would like my students to be able to print cups and stuff to drink from if they want. I know I need a food-safe material AND a food safe nozzle if it can be managed.
So, I wanted to check the following:
1. Is there a material data sheet for the PLA filament that Makerbots use? I am told you need to check for each color, so the general one doesn't seem to be what I need. If anyone knows where to find it, please let me know.
2. I am told stainless steel nozzles are best. I saw several sold on amazon and the like that will supposedly fit the Smart Extruders. Recs on which I should use (if any) are welcome. Especially as the nozzle width will differ, the stock nozzle I think is 0.4mm? I assume I will need to adjust the settings on the printer as well anyway if I swap out the stock nozzle.
3. Another procedure my research yielded was that I would probably want to coat the 3D prints in resin. It seems there are several food-safe brands. Would such resins stand up to acidic liquids like orange juice and the like? What about alcohol? I know they won't work with coffee or something because PLA melts as such a low temperature. Recommendations are welcome here, and whether I should paint on or dip the 3D print?
3a. Even if the PLA isn't itself officially food safe would just coating it in resin solve that problem?
Any assistance here is much appreciated. | [
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19,881 | I would like to print a custom version of something akin to this rugged case that was originally created using injection molding:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oL8JW.jpg "ea weather proofed tablet with over-molded rubber")
The outside consists of a material that is a bit softer than the main body.
It is used to protect the electronics against drops when the case falls onto the floor.
Unfortunately, I don't know which material this is, and I don't know which method I could use to measure its softness.
I would therefore like to ask if anybody has experience with such a softer outer hull and can tell me which material could be used when I want to 3D print it.
I would like to use this case in a hospital environment. | [
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19,890 | [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaqNr.jpg)
When I print the gcode repeatly, under extrusion happens at the same place.
The under extrusion not only occurs on first layer. I noticed the second layer also has some part under extruded, but not at the same place as first layer, because the infill line direction is rotated 90 degrees.
I have tried the following but could not solve the problem:
1. Delta calibration (leveling)
2. z=0 gap adjustment
3. Filament flow calibration
It's a delta printer running Marlin 2.1. Slice with SuperSlicer.
The top layer doesn't seem to have under extrusion. There is even a bit over extrusion at the corner.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XF2Bf.jpg) | [
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"text": "The most likely cause is that your bed just isn't flat. At least as I understand it, delta ca... | 2022/09/09 | [
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19,895 | It is difficult to describe with words what's happening, so take a look at the picture. Somehow PrusaSlicer decides to move and print in the air (blue line), where instead it can continue going from outwards to inward. I understand it wants to print first the outer layer but in this case it is obvious it will not hold that layer.
The final position is shown in the second image.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iB1fc.jpg)
The final step of that layer:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PCetc.jpg)
Any idea how to configure PrusaSlicer to avoid this situation? | [
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19,911 | My Prusa i3 does not appear to have any sound device incorporated. I've read "[Writing G-Code: Audible Alert at end of print](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11056/writing-g-code-audible-alert-at-end-of-print)" and it seems everything needed to implement audible alerts is built into the G-code syntax and firmware but my rig appears to be lacking the necessary noise maker. | [
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"text": "Possible is this an idea found at the octoprint web site?\n\n<https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/pwmbuzzer/>"
... | 2022/09/12 | [
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19,913 | I'm struggling to find out an enclosed 3D printer that allow to load the common 1 kg filament bobbins. Most of the enclosed ones accept only proprietary bobbins (like Dremel or Flashforge).
Do these bobbins ( = 1 kg) rely on a specific standard I can search for?
How to filter out the printers that match my request when making a Google search?
I'm aware I can "easily" put them out of the machine using a custom support (or even directly in a dryer as I do for my Dremel) but this partially nullifies the advantage of the enclosure. | [
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"text": "QIDI Tech makes a series of enclosed printers, which would narrow your search a bit. I own an X-Max model which h... | 2022/09/13 | [
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19,917 | I am having some trouble with model adherence to my print bed. As shown in the attached photo, my model is pulled away at the sides leaving it bowed even though it is designed to be flat. Other than this "bowing", the model is of good quality.
The model is printed solid on an Anycubic Photon M3 Plus with Anycubic 3D Printing UV Sensitive Resin. My print settings are:
* Bottom layer count: 6
* Bottom layer exposure: 22 secs (also tried 30 secs and 40 secs with the same results)
* Normal layer height: 0.05 mm
* Normal layer exposure: 2.5 secs
* Off time: 0.5 secs
* Z lift height: 6 mm
* Z lift speed : 360 mm/sec
* Z lift retract: 6 mm
The bed is aligned. Could anyone suggest what is wrong and what I could try to remove this "bowing" effect?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmF9H.jpg "Resin printed model with a bowing effect") | [
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"text": "Print orientation\n-----------------\n\nYour model is pulled up from the FEP film with a huge force. It releases fro... | 2022/09/13 | [
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19,937 | Ender 3 Pro, everything is stock except that I swapped the magnetic sheet for a glass bed.
As the tin says, I'll get this error around a half hour into a print:
```
THERMAL RUNAWAY: E1
PRINTER HALTED
Please Reset
```
I recorded it in the act, and here's some info I've collected:
The Extruder temp isn't consistent. It's set to 200 °C (Cura default), but will often wander around in the 197 °C-202 °C range.
There are random severe spikes where it will instantly go from 200 °C to 190 °C, then climb up to 205 °C.
About 5 minutes before error, it instantly dropped from 200 °C to 170 °C, then 180 °C, then 190 °C, then chilbed back up to 200 °C.
The error popped in when the extruder was at 190 °C.
See, it seems to jump around in an odd pattern, not just smoothly transitioning to a lower temperature. This leads me to suspect it's a sensor issue.
*However*, around the time these jumps were occurring, the plastic wouldn't adhere to the plate correctly. Some parts wouldn't stick:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EV75D.png "Photo of the first few layers of a printed model with edges curling up")
Compare the bottom (printed first) to the top (printed last). A lot of edges are popping up (although the bottom isn't perfect either).
This wasn't an issue until I moved my printer to the basement (from my bedroom) for a 30-hour print. I had it running for ~14 hours straight before my first encounter with this error. The temperate difference between my room and the basement is minimal.
I also leveled the bed before re-trying, which didn't solve the issue.
I am new to this, I got the printer 3 weeks ago. Extensive googling has resulted in many different solutions, but none specific to my printer's temperature situation. I post this hoping to find clarification for myself and provide a concise description of the problem so others down the line can find the solution easier. | [
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19,940 | After leveling the corners of the bed and doing a manual mesh bed leveling (both options on the menu LCD) I adjust the babystep Z while printing to get a perfect first layer.
Ideally, I would take note of the optimal babystep Z value and store it as Z offset, but there´s no Z offset option in the LCD menu. The only similar setting I can find is (only while printing) **Tune** > **Bed Z** but this setting doesn´t affect anything. If I adjust babystep Z I can clearly see changes in Z height but not with Bed Z.
Does anyone have any idea how to store the babystep Z value? (I´ve already tried adjusting the babystep Z and then selecting the **Store Settings** option but that doesn´t work) Or maybe how to store my Z offset value through Pronterface?
PS: I recently started 3D printing, I know how to send commands through the Pronterface terminal, but haven´t learned how to modify firmware yet. | [
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19,943 | I want to print the following model on my Kobra Max using ABS.
I have uploaded it [here](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XMasuTVzg3MCHDd3Txi7sb-pUqEzPtE0/view?usp=sharing).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/H0zNf.jpg "Screenshot of the Cura preview for a 3D model")
I have tried it 3 times now, it always results in this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SoZMu.png "Photo of the printed model on the build plate with corners curled up")
As you can see, one part managed to break free from the support and warped upwards.
At this point, I had to stop the print process.
The element which broke free really has a strong will to bend.
What could I do in this case?
These are my print settings; bed temperature is 80 °C, and nozzle temperature is 195 °C.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7EaSA.png "Screenshot of the Travel and Build Plate Adhesion settings in Cura") | [
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19,958 | I'm new in the 3D priting and I bought a BIQU B1 printer :-)
I printed the Pokemon with the white filament that come as a sample with the printer (PLA) and after that I bought the Inland PLA+ and PETG+ from Microcenter.
The first thing that my son asked me to print is the toaster.
Well, I tried to print three times with the PETG+ filament and always I end up after one or two layers with oozie everywhere and I had to stop printing.
I replaced the filament with the PLA+ and now it's printing correctly (It's 91% complete right now :-) )
So, I set the correct temperator for both filaments:
* PLA+ 205/60
* PETG+ 230/70
I'm thinking that for this type of object (torture toaster) it doesn't work with PETG because of the complexity.
Is that correct? If not, what I could be doing wrong with PETG+ filament? | [
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19,963 | I'm using PrusaSlicer with OpenSCAD. I want to print a solid object with a notch in it, without top layers, but with infill and solid walls for the notch, like this...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWoz3.png "Screenshot of the preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer")
I can set the number of top layers to zero (**Print Settings** > **Layers and perimeters** > **Solid Layers** > **Top** = 0), which gets rid of the top layers as desired, but it also removes the base from the notch, like this...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mdzlT.png "Screenshot of the preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer with no Top Layers")
Is there any way to do what I want without awful shenanigans in OpenSCAD or editing G-code? | [
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19,971 | I am printing Eryone 1.75 mm PET on my Kobra Max printer with 80°C bed and 230°C.
I am experiencing this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RXv0n.jpg "Possible stringing and over-extrusion")
Is this "over-extrusion" and "stringing"?
And how do I avoid this? | [
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"text": "Stringing\n=========\n\nPETG is prone to stringing, even with the best settings. Often, I live with some stringing a... | 2022/09/25 | [
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19,974 | I have an HBot 3D 1.1 printer (it's a CoreXY style printer, newer versions are produced by ZMorph). I think that a filament guide tube inside the hotend got damaged, resulting in decreased diameter, which means I can't push the filament through it. It stops halfway through the heatsink (black marker in the attached photo).
I need some help, I'm not sure how to disassemble this type of hotend. With my Ender 3 which I have at home, I can just unscrew the nozzle since it's simply a hexagonal nut, but here it seems that the nozzle and heat block are one part and I don't think I can unscrew the heat block and the heatsink. I'm not sure what to do.
I'm sure the nozzle itself isn't clogged. I've done some cold-pulling on one end, inserted a thin wire from the other, and examined the insides with a flashlight.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pkoj3.jpg "Photo of the heat block and nozzle of the HBot 3D printer") | [
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20,001 | I just purchased this Ender 3 Pro about 1 week ago and since then I've been having nightmares with leveling/tramming the printer bed. From having to tram it again after every print to not being able to level it at all.
Since then I've been reading and watching a lot of problem-related content to try and find a solution.
The two most recommended upgrades were a glass bed and stiffer springs for the bed so that's what I bought. I purchased the original Creality glass bed and the yellow springs and for a day or so I got it to work in an acceptable way but I still had to tram the bed every couple of prints.
Today for some unknown reason, I woke up and I can't seem to get my bed leveled in the middle. I've tried every possible solution that crossed my mind but the middle of the bed is still too far from the nozzle and the filament won't stick. | [
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20,005 | In a review for a certain filament I read that somebody recommended "[a feeding rate of 105%](https://www.amazon.de/gp/customer-reviews/RVMUN4CW9ZLKX/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B01080YND6)".
What does he mean, and how could I set this in Cura?
When I search for "*feed*" in the print settings properties of Cura, nothing is found, so I suspect he means "*speed*".
When I search for speed, multiple speed settings turn up, not only one.
How could I do what he recommended?
Thank you!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DoQ2L.png) | [
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"text": "[Extruder] feed rate [modifier] is used synonymous to extrusion multiplier\n----------------------------------------... | 2022/10/02 | [
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20,017 | I am new to 3D printing. I have a Longer LK5 Pro. I was making a part that has raised letters, and wanted to have white letters on the black part. I used a Post Processing script on the Cura program called "change filament", which is supposed to stop printing, retract the head, and allow you to change the filament. Mine just keeps on printing. I've tried "pause" and done the filament change, but unsuccessfully so far because of blobs deposited on the letters.
Any suggestions? | [
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"text": "I've done it a few ways depending on the desired effect I'm after.\n\nManually pausing the machine is what seems ... | 2022/10/04 | [
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20,024 | * Printer: Kobra Max
* Nozzle: 0.4 mm
* Material: PLA
* Slicer :Cura
I have printed 1 model 3 times with different settings (different temperatures and different bed temperatures).
* Try 1: 190 °C / 50 °C
* Try 2: 210 °C / 70 °C
* Try 3: 230 °C / 50 °C
All 3 models show 1 "line" at some point.
The models are smooth all around, but then there is this 1 line on each model.
What is this error called, please?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmV36.jpg "Photo of three printed models with the same printing error")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8b7D.png) | [
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"text": "This is the Z-seam, or just \"seam\". It's a consequence of the fact that the extrusion of ea... | 2022/10/06 | [
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20,029 | * Printer: Kobra Max
* Nozzle: 0.4 mm
* Material: PLA
* Slicer :Cura
I have printed 1 model 3 times with different settings (different temperatures and different bed temperatures).
* Try 1: 190 °C / 50 °C
* Try 2: 210 °C / 70 °C
* Try 3: 230 °C / 50 °C
All 3 models show a seam.
How / where do I best hide this seam?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmV36.jpg "Photo of three printed models with the same printing error")
These are some screenshots of the model in Fusion 360:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8b7D.png) | [
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"text": "There are a bunch of possible causes for the seam. But the main one is retraction.\n\nIn Cura the main setting aff... | 2022/10/06 | [
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20,037 | I need to build me a small support wall 250x80 cm mounted on two metal supports approximately 200 cm apart.
I was looking into WPC (Wood Plastic Composite) boards and then it hit me that I may be able to make it functional AND pretty with my 3D printer (Prusa MK3S + MMU2).
However, I have zero idea on how to calculate whether the board will be able to handle the weight of the soil I would shovel behind it, if at all.
My current design proposal is to make a hexagon mesh of PETG filament. The hexagons would have cylinder cutouts in all three directions, through which I would then hammer in cylinders to bind them together. Perhaps even some edge contours so that they fit perfectly.
But, my problem is that I don't know how to calculate the strength of such a solution (or any other).
Is this even a viable idea?
The filament type needs a bit more explanation:
My current proposal is PETG since I read that PLA will become brittle with time (as I can attest to myself having to replace my flag pole holder every 3 - 4 years)
I don't want ABS since I have horrible experience printing it.
I did not find anything of particular use when searching for "3D print load-bearing" on this site and similar with Google searches... | [
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20,042 | I just got an Ender 3 S1 Pro and I've done a few prints using fairly stock settings out of Cura. A few minor tweaks to Layer Height and Start temps. I've done some research but can't really find an example of this issue. If someone can give me some insight, that would be very helpful.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yMDo8.jpg "Photo of a 3D printed rabbit model with a printing error partway up the model")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SxbEa.jpg "Photo of a calibration cube with a printing error partway up the model") | [
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"text": "If this defect is present in all your printed models, there most likely is something wrong with the mechanics of the... | 2022/10/08 | [
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20,049 | I experience some lines on my prints. However, I would not really call them "stringing".
I have seen some stringing and it was rather like an undefined spider web.
But the lines that you see in my photo are super straight and fine.
Are they called "stringing" too? And how do I get rid of them?
Specs:
* Printer: Kobra Max
* Nozzle: 200 °C
* Bed: 50 °C
* Filament: GiantArm PLA
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/W0uJF.png "Photo of print bed with faint filament lines that don't look like part of the printed model") | [
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"text": "They're caused by filament being pulled during travel so they qualify as stringing.\n\nYou need to look at your r... | 2022/10/09 | [
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20,060 | If I am 3D printing on my Ender 3, and I pause the print, the extruder lets out more filament for like 2 seconds. This leaves a glob of dry filament on my print, which the could contact the nozzle tip, causing it to slide the build platform.
I have fixed the build platform sliding problem by attaching the included clips. However, another problem remains. Once the glob is made, the filament dropped on top of it gets pushed up, making the print not be even, which ruins the print. I don't think I did anything wrong on the setup, but it might just be that the extruder doesn't stop in time? Did I do anything wrong is is this an issue among all Ender 3s?
* I use the Creality Ender 3 | [
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"text": "It extrudes after a print to replace any filament that may have drooled out while it was paused.\n\nQuite poss... | 2022/10/13 | [
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20,067 | Pretty new to 3d Printing. Ultimaker Cura as my Slicer. I have the Ender3 3d Printer.
I have a model from Hero Forge I'm trying to print. I added some caltrops on the base but when I go to print the figure, my Ender3 won't finish the caltrops/smaller items and won't finish the figure. It will basically just go through the motions lol.
Here's an example of it happening on the base of my Figure.
This is the mockup and afterwards is basically where it stops and the filament either just stops coming out or the nozzle moves around the filament that actually does print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWp3p.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIME4.jpg)
Here's an example of something similar happening to Pikachu's ears.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAR24.jpg) | [
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"text": "I suggest you try again with another filament. It looks like your nozzle is either clogging or your filament is s... | 2022/10/13 | [
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20,095 | Can someone shed some light in why FDM (Fuse Deposition Modelling) is not possible with metals?
Has anyone attempted any experiments with it? | [
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"text": "For many metals you would need to run the hotend around 1000 °C. Aluminum melts at a lower temperature but ne... | 2022/10/20 | [
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20,099 | From my understanding of FFF 3D printing, the glass state is usually used to heat the bed for better first layer adhesion. Other than that, does the extruder keep ex:PLA in a glass state for any reason?
Is the transition of the filament straight from solid to liquid for extrusion without any real regard for the glass state? | [
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20,124 | I have an Ender 3 Pro modded with the Hero Me Gen 6 air ducts, installed a Creality 4.2.7 mainboard, and updated Marlin firmware to the latest for now 2.1.1 version. I'm printing with PLA only.
It was printing well enough. The nozzle started to wear down so I replaced the nozzle (standard brass one) but also upgraded the heatbreak to a bi-metal one (not all-metal, there is still a plastic tube inside the heatbreak) and a heatblock (standard goldish Creality block). And since that moment, the printer fails to print with good quality starting the second layer
What I tried:
* recalibrated it with a gauge of 0.2 mm and the first layer is perfect (did not know that could be a thing :))
* updated firmware
* tried to tighten screws (as it is recommended [here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5503/has-anyone-encountered-this-type-of-strange-print-patterns))
* adjusted Z-axis steps/mm
* another filament
I can't figure out what causes that thing.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NpYMj.jpg "Photo of the first two layers of a printed model; the second layer looking very different")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPZVO.jpg "Upclose photo of the printed model showing the difference in the two layers")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SKahg.jpg "Zoomed in photo of the printed model showing the detailed differences in the two layers")
edited 2022-10-25 23:41
I think it is overextrusion. I tried reprinting object. The first layer was perfect, but second was poor again. There was no difference with cooling or without, no difference printing slower. But flow rate did matter:
1. 100% flow rate
2. changed to 85% flow rate
3. changed to 75% flow rate
4. changed to 100% flow rate
5. changed to 75% flow rate
Maybe it is prusa slicer doing its thing. I will try Cura. The only thing that bothers me is that diagonal scratch - that is from the nozzle which makes me think it is too low for the second layer
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/j0wWW.jpg "Difference of other flow rates")
edited 2022-10-28 15:53
It's not a slicer thing. I sliced object with Cura and got pretty much the same result. I babystepped z-axis during the print to get nice result. So I think it is either z-axis motor not stepping enough or I need to lower extrusion multiplier in slicer. I will print calibration cube to check if z-axis motor steps up enough
edited 2022-10-28 18:34
Printed calibration cube. Turns out my z-axis steps were off. Model was 19.66mm instead of 20mm. I tuned steps to 407 from 400. That helped a bit (model is 20.02mm now) , but still the same ugly overextruded result. Tried to lower extrusion multiplier to 0.8 and still got the same bad result
edited 2022-10-30 22:11
It is neither nozzle nor heatbreak tube. I checked it using my old hardware. Maybe it is somehow connected to firmware... Or E-steps are off while printing | [
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20,129 | I want to buy my first FDM printer, to print household items and wearable gadgets too big for my LCD resin one. Due to financing & tax reasons, what I'll buy now is what I will have for at least a year.
I was thinking about [Prusa i3 MK3S+](https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-kit-3/), and [MMU2S](https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5s-mk3s-org/) looks really interesting and useful, especially to print water soluble supports. However, after reading reviews I hardly can justify buying it.
I have some technical experience, can make some things and once even built a 3 axis stepper motor system from scratch, and it worked. I have a resin LCD printer and have printed working parts. I still have NEMA17 motors, 4 of them.
Assuming I'll get Prusa i3 MK3S+, what else would I need to print and assemble MMU2S? Is there an official Bill Of Materials? Blueprints? STL files? | [
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20,132 | I am using Cura 4.13.1 as a slicer for my Ender 3 v2 printer.
I want to print a model which I scaled to 400 %. To improve bed adhesion I wanted to add a default raft (Extra Margin = 15 mm). Unfortunately, Cura is not able to slice the model despite being still within the printer's build volume (400 % = 190x200x200 mm). I have to reduce the scaling to 365 % (= 171x183x180 mmm) to fit the slicing.
As a workaround for printing the 400 % size, I will try to use a small support structure for better bed adhesion but I would prefer a raft.
**Edit:** Sorry for leaving out the info about the models form. I get the 220+raft limitation but my model is tapered downwards:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PC5q.png)
So the raft actually fits the printers/slicers default limit.
Does it really not matter and cura simply adds the raft size to models max X and Y values? | [
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20,141 | I need to print a thin piece.
Theoretically, it could work, but Cura prints the walls as single lines.
In my case, it is just this line that breaks apart as you can see here.
Is there a setting that would instruct Cura to avoid creating such a line as the outer wall, or how else could I resolve this problem?
* Printer: Kobra Max
* Material: PETG / PLA
* Temperature: 250 °C / 65 °C
Speeds:
* Print speed: 80 mm/s
* Outer Wall Speed: 45 mm/s
* Inner Wall Speed: 80 mm/s
* Top/Bottom Speed: 45 mm/s
* Travel Speed: 100 mm/s
* Initial layer speed 45 mm/s
* Travel retraction speed: 40 mm/s
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwP2L.png "Photos and graphic showing the point of failure of a 3D printed model")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0Scr.png "Screenshot of Cura's Print Preview of a 3D printed model showing where the failure happens") | [
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20,185 | After encountering extreme under extrusion on my Anycubic i3 Mega, I first cleaned the nozzle and ended up replacing the entire hotend + nozzle. Since that did not help and I couldn't see any issues with it, I went on to check my E-steps. It seems that this is the root cause of the issue.
I removed the Bowden tube to have no resistance and used `G1 E100 F100` to feed 100 mm of filament through the extruder. The extruder only extruded ca. 23 mm though, so I had to adjust the E-Steps value from **92** to **398** which already seemed way off, seemingly "fixed" the issue though. When I repeated the test "under load" with the Bowden tube connected and the hotend heated to 220 °C (using PLA I normally print at 200 °C), the extruder once again only extruded a fraction of the supposed 100 mm (I don't remember the exact measurement, though approximately 30 mm). The gears seem to be fine, and the filament that is pushed against the small gear doesn't seem to slip either.
Unfortunately, that's where my experience ends, can someone tell me how to proceed to narrow down the issue? I suppose it could be the motor itself, a faulty stepper motor driver, loose cables, or the mainboard.
**Edit to @Citadel:**
When I bought the printer it had a spare hot end that came with it. I simply replaced the old one with this one. I did not do any further hardware customization.
**Edit2:**
Sorry for the late update, I wasn't able to check the printer before due to work. I swapped the stepper driver with one of the others on board and checked the e-steps again. Aaaand I just then I noticed I must have forgotten to save the to eeprom when I updated the e-steps last time... So of course I tried with the swapped stepper driver and original e-steps (**92**), but this didn't fix the issue. So the issue is not the driver. After that I changed the e-steps to **398** again and saved this time. Last time I accidentally started a print that that caused the eeprom reset before I saved the settings and tried the e-steps under load. This time it worked, even under load. I still believe this must mean that the motor is missing some steps but for now it seems to print fine. If I get issues again I'll next try to swap the motor. Thanks for your answers!
TL;DR: forgot to save the new e-steps due to starting a calibration print that reset the value before saving. New value actually works but probably indicates that something might be wrong with the motor as the stepper driver is fine. | [
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20,190 | I upgraded my Ender 3 with a new Mobo, the 4.2.7 version.
My current setup is:
Printer Specifications:
* Ender 3
* Upgraded Motherboard 4.2.7 (Silent Stepper Drivers)
* Marlin FW Upgrade to Version 2.1.x
* New metal extruder handle
* Replacement bed springs
* New complete hot end
* Everything else is in stock
Prior to the mobo upgrade, everything was working fine. Now I'm having problems with the extruder.
I did use at first the Ender3 32bit 4.2.7 firmware, but it did happens too.
The e-steps for the filament length have been adjusted. Once I start spinning the extruder, the extruder stepper starts grinding and jumping/rewinding the extruder wheel with the filament to the back; sometimes even 8-10 mm. Also, if I manually hold the filament back, it springs back. It seems that there is no power/power coming from the stepper motor.
So I would like to check how much power the driver needs and gets.
How or where can I find the required voltage for the drivers?
How to adjust the drivers?
Any tips or references are welcome. | [
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20,221 | I'm having some problem with my Ender 3. I have been printing for almost a year with good results. Then, all of a sudden, the fan started to be noisy and the prints came out definitely not good.
From what I understood looking around, the problem could be under extrusion.
I replaced the fan (both of them actually) but the prints keep coming out badly. The software is always the same (Cura) and I never changed any parameter whatsoever.
This is what I tried so far:
* printing with (four) different filaments (always PLA though).
* changing the E-steps
* unclogging and replacing the nozzle (twice)
* re-calibrating Z like a million times
* printing different projects, included those who I already successfully printed before
-> Nothing helped!
Then I was forced to also change the software (because my PC died...) But even with the new version nothing changed.
Now the extruder calibration is okay (I print 10 cm and 10 cm of filament are consumed through a hot nozzle).
Increasing the flow by 5 % and the temperature by 10 °C (I'm now printing at 220 °C....) actually gives better results (the calibration cube is more definite and more solid) even if under extrusion is still appreciable.
Calibration cubes:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pjHYz.jpg "Calibration cubes (before and after increasing flow and temp)")
Printing example:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/54sFZ.jpg "Printing example")
I don't know what else to try!!!
Can someone help me? | [
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20,226 | I've just bought my first 3D printer, and I've started playing with it. But apparently, I have the problem that the raft won't stick. I mean, it sticks, for iteration (layer) or two, and after that it just disconnects. This is what I've checked until now:
* Bed is leveled properly, including Z, tried different variation of offsets
* Temperature of both bed and nozzle are okay (70 and 210 °C, it is PLA filament)
* Received slightly better results with adhesive for 3D printers, but still not ideal
Now, I've came up to the idea: I would like to try to interconnect each line in one layer (iteration) with thicker dot of melted filament for better adhesion. Unfortunately, I don't know how to setup this parameter in slicing software (Cura). Does anyone eventually know where I can find this parameter in Cura? In addition, here it is the extract of the GCODE:
```
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:8750
;Filament used: 3.97836m
;Layer height: 0.15
;MINX:45.401
;MINY:52.901
;MINZ:0.36
;MAXX:154.6
;MAXY:147.099
;MAXZ:31.035
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 5.2.1
M140 S45
M105
M190 S45
M104 S210
M105
M109 S210
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:199
;LAYER:-7
M107
G0 F7200 X49.177 Y57.705 Z0.36
;TYPE:SUPPORT-INTERFACE
G1 F1500 E0
G1 F1350 X48.447 Y58.574 E0.05124
G1 X47.809 Y59.466 E0.10075
G1 X47.23 Y60.43 E0.15151
G1 X46.778 Y61.31 E0.19618
...
;TIME_ELAPSED:8750.646320
G1 F1500 E835.92386
M140 S0
M104 S0
M140 S0
;Retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
M104 S0
;End of Gcode
;SETTING_3 {"global_quality": "[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Normal #2\\ndefi
;SETTING_3 nition = custom\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_ty
;SETTING_3 pe = fast\\nsetting_version = 20\\n\\n[values]\\nadhesion_type = raft
;SETTING_3 \\nmaterial_bed_temperature = 45.0\\n\\n", "extruder_quality": ["[gen
;SETTING_3 eral]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Normal #2\\ndefinition = custom\\n\\n[me
;SETTING_3 tadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_type = fast\\nsetting_vers
;SETTING_3 ion = 20\\nposition = 0\\n\\n[values]\\ncool_fan_enabled = False\\nin
;SETTING_3 fill_pattern = grid\\ninfill_sparse_density = 80\\nmaterial_print_tem
;SETTING_3 perature = 210.0\\nretraction_hop_enabled = True\\nspeed_print = 60.0
;SETTING_3 \\n\\n"]}
``` | [
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20,230 | When designing for 3d FDM printing, I'm wondering what is best practice for items with large overhangs which cannot have (or would be fairly impractical) support structures. Consider my following design:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rfmyd.png)
This item is about 7" long, and you'll notice the narrow slot running through the middle of it. The slot is 0.100" wide.
I was about to print this when I suddenly realized printing it would be a problem. So I started messing around with painting on supports, but since something slides in this slot, I would have to do some extensive cleanup to make sure it's smooth.
What I ended up doing was splitting the body at the start of the overhang, and placing some alignment pins in the body (with corresponding holes in the upper portion of the body. e.g.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ypGmc.png)
I will print the top and bottom separately and glue them together.
My question is whether this is my only option or if I'm missing something in the design process which might work better? This design is in Fusion360, in case that matters when discussing some specific tools that are available which I'm unaware of. | [
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"text": "When constructing a model intended to be 3D printed, your approach is sound. Overhangs and the required supports c... | 2022/11/20 | [
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20,263 | I have an Elegoo Mars.
I have printed a figure in Resin, but after some months I found this - the figure is as if it is not completely cured. The base is open (see picture below). it wasn't open before!
It was printed a month ago, I am not precisely sure. I think I only machine cured and sunlight.
How is this possible?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4bBJ.jpg "Base of 3D print") | [
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"text": "Those are cracks as a result of overstressing due internal stresses to further curing of the print over the course of... | 2022/11/28 | [
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20,278 | This is a follow up question for [What are viable substitutes for Raspberry Pi to run Octoprint or similar software for Prusa i3 MK3S+?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/20196/20803)
I was able to grab Raspberry Pi 400 for around $70, so [at MSRP](https://www.raspberrypi.com/news/raspberry-pi-400-the-70-desktop-pc/), and about half of the current pi 4b prices nowadays. Good deal given shortages, so I ordered it when it was available, and only now I started to think if I can really use it.
Thus, are there any special challenges to using Raspberry Pi 400 as OctoPrint server, and does it have any benefits over regular Pi 4B? Is there any ready-made manual about it I could use? | [
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"text": "The recommended hardware for OctoPi is [listed](https://octoprint.org/download/) as:\n\n> \n> Recommended hardwar... | 2022/12/02 | [
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20,282 | Brand new Ender 3 V2 Neo with CR Touch. Set printer up, switched on, ran bed levelling as per instructions, and tried first print.
Filament is not sticking to bed. I noticed that the nozzle is approx 5 mm above bed when printing. On this model there is no manual levelling, just auto. Any ideas? | [
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"text": "You probably need to manually set the Z-probe offset in the Configuration. The CR-touch is mounted a little lower th... | 2022/12/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20282",
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20,303 | Is it safe to give a 3D printed toy (printed using food-safe filaments) to a toddler?
Are there any recommendations/studies on what is considered safe? | [
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20,308 | I'm currently printing several cases for electronics, one for a Raspberry Pi 4 and two for smaller electronics, using ABS. These cases will be attached to a drone which might be exposed to rain. The cases itself should handle a little water, but I'm looking for a way to seal the seams where the cases are put together.
As mentioned, the cases must endure light to medium rain. Also, they might be frequently dis- and reassembled, which should work without the sealing being destroyed.
The edges of the case parts are normally very thin, so gluing rubber bands or o-rings to them would be very complicated. And if I apply a sealant coating, how to open the cases again?
I was hoping that maybe there was some kind of viscous liquid that is applied to the edges with a brush (or by dipping the edges into it) and then hardens to a rubber like texture that sticks to the part it was applied to. Other Ideas are welcome too, of course. | [
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"text": "Plastidip is a spray-on rubber-like material that strengthens and waterproofs your 3D print.\n\nOther than that I wo... | 2022/12/10 | [
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20,318 | [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3XeE.jpg)
While I was setting up a new Ender 3 v2, and tuning the z-steps value, I noticed that some layers were extending beyond the others in the x and y axes. I didn't notice any pattern related to which layer, or how far from the print bed, or how often they might repeat during the same print.
My current setup is OctoPrint running on a raspberry pi 3B, connected via USB to the recently-assembled Ender 3v2.
My current theory is that something related to the z-axis stepping isn't lifting the print-head. It might be that the wrong number of steps are being performed, or that the screw isn't turning along with the stepper, or that there is some kind of friction or binding keeping the x-axis beam from raising. | [
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"text": "It is unlikely that the amount of steps per mm are incorrect for your Z-axis, but there is indeed something wrong wi... | 2022/12/13 | [
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20,336 | I wanted to experiment with a 3D printer and downloaded **Lychee Slicer** and wanted to print an Unreal asset. I took a [free one](https://www.unrealengine.com/marketplace/en-US/product/paragon-steel) from the store and exported the static mesh as `.obj`, so I can load it in **Lychee**. The only thing is details and curves have disappeared and smooth surfaces are visible polygons. Is this something that can be fixed?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IAXgd.jpg "Screenshot of a 3D model in Unreal Engine")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPBCL.png "Screenshot of a 3D model in Lychee Slicer") | [
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"text": "The curves (simple smoothing or real \"multiple-per-vertex-normals\") are embedded in the vertex information of the ... | 2022/12/18 | [
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20,343 | Referring to a circle shape G-code online generator for my 2D printer at [here](https://cnc-apps.com/en/app/circle), in which I created a 100 mm circle. I downloaded the G-code from the website and try to open it with UGS plotter but it is not showing any circle in that software.
How can I solve this issue? Pardon me, I only started CNC 2 days ago and I have jogged my 2D printer I built and it works well, so now as a beginner task, I want to draw a circle.
If anyone has experience with G-code, feel free to share it with me. I appreciate it :)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xfnfS.png "Screenshot of online G-code generator settings")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/sfcu6.png "Screenshot of UGS software with no G-code shown") | [
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20,350 | I recently started using my Ender 3 V2 again because I needed it to print a hook. I went through multiple problems that I could solve by updating the firmware but after starting the print, I heard a very hard noise that made me understand that the stepper motors were going over their limit and, after trying a second time, I saw that every axis was going to +infinite position.
I didn't try much things as I am not comfortable with this but I think it comes from the firmware.
If you have the solution please help me because I can't print anything and I think it damages the printer. | [
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20,365 | How to use organic supports in PrusaSlicer or Cura? I heard that it is possible, but I can’t find this option in these slicers. | [
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"text": "As Cura is mentioned in the question, it could be solved using Cura. The only organic support in Cura is called `Tre... | 2022/12/23 | [
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20,373 | Well, I know what my critical error was, I was in a hurry and set a print running before leaving it unattended for about 8 hours; came home to a great enormous disaster.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywdFK.jpg "Photo of a large mass of filament sticking out of a silicone sock")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YjQec.jpg "Photo of the printer head from below showing filament and residue")
What on earth happened? Perhaps more importantly, is anything here salvageable, or do I just need to get a new printhead? | [
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20,382 | Just came to the 3D printing world and after installing Marlin 2.1.2 firmware in my Ender 3, which took a while and was finally completed following this tutorial:
I cannot get the CR Touch correctly calibrated, but it is correctly installed (physically) and recognized in firmware. The steps I´m following are:
* Auto-homing. Which does a correct measurement from the center of the bed using CR Touch.
* Probing the Z Offset. Which is strange because I got 0.1 mm instead of the -1.x mm or even -2 mm some people are getting in some tutorials I´ve seen so far.
* Bed leveling. By default it takes 9 measurements and the first 6 are okay, but for the 7th the nozzle along with the CR Touch goes to low and pushes against the glass bed. Also, is there a way to make it work taking more measurements of the bed? Just for it to be more accurate and know more the bed it is working on.
Once again, I´m new in this but I have seen many videos about it, not getting a valid configuration in any of them. Is there anything to try out for it to work well? Also, I´m using OctoPrint for it, in case this helps or there is a known plugin I can work with. | [
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"text": "Your CR Touch is either installed wrong or broken.\n\nAuto home checks for the X and Y limit switches then... | 2022/12/27 | [
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20,403 | I am pretty new to 3D-printing, and I have just finished assembling my Prosi i3 a few days ago.
I finished up basic calibrations, which went fine, but noticed my prints were coming out with a bunch of rough lines on the sides. I looked online, and saw some things about adjusting flow rate, so I took that down from 95 to 90. I am not really sure what else to try right now. I have messed with layer height, which is at 0.2 mm now.
I have double-checked belt tensions and messed around with it, but the belt status seems to be hovering around 267 pretty consistently. I did try loosening it a lot more, but got the around the same, ~270 at max, even when extremely loose. Not sure what the belt tension should be feeling like, but it seems to check out with the guides.
I would appreciate any help or advice.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rYuWe.jpg "Test print of an SD card bear holder, layer lines seem to be sticking out")
Calibration cube printed after tensioning the belts:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/c46X2.jpg "Calibration cube printed after tensioning the belts") | [
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20,408 | I just finished assembling my Ender 3 Pro and am having trouble with bed leveling. The extruder doesn't even come close to the bed, the z-limit stops the nozzle about 3-4 mm away.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHT5B.jpg "Extruder and bed gap")
The leveling springs are already pretty uncompressed. Is there any way to decrease the gap? Should I be checking for a specific assembly step to see if I assembled it incorrectly somewhere? | [
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"text": "It's normal for your nozzle to be some distance away from the bed. It should be adjusted properly at first. Si... | 2023/01/02 | [
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20,419 | Is there a convention for the scale of the 3D printing STL files that are shared online and/or expected by 3-D printers?
I found a model on Thingiverse that is useful for my project, a connector that must fit with other parts, so precision is important. Eyeballing, it seems that each STL unit corresponds to 1 millimeter, is this a safe/conventional assumption? | [
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"text": "The STL File format is unitless, It only contains relative positions for the vertices of the mesh which makes up ... | 2023/01/05 | [
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20,425 | This would be my first ever 3D printing
I previously worked in Sketchup to generate simple objects, mostly floor plans and various small objects mostly for visualizing and designing things.
I am now trying to print a dust collector (hose) adapter that would connect my vacuum to my table saw guard. I have the model already (looks like below), I have managed to get quotes from 3D printing service providers so apparently everything looks OK
I still have doubts regarding the stability of the object during the 3D printing.
How can I verify if everything is OK in that respect? I plan to print at our local public library which offers free printing (you pay the materials)
Here is my model, the OD at the base is 64.3 mm (2 17/32", the height is 288.1 mm):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8HqX.png)
[Here](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hGMpJfpFLHW0tBs2jVpVQWTiLIZi15Js/view?usp=sharing) is the link to the file.
If it matters the local public library branch has the following 3D printers which I can use:
* The LulzBot TAZ,
* The Maker Bot Replicator 2
* The Ultimaker 2 Plus | [
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"text": "The shape seems very easily printable.\n\nThe only part which will need supports is the bottom side of the rectangula... | 2023/01/06 | [
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20,429 | I would like to add neodymium magnets during print. The model, which I would like to print, has fully enclosed holes made for placing magnets.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lz3bj.png)
I added pause on layer (`M601`) in slicer. Since, this is a very long print, I would like to avoid any problems. I read that the magnet can attach to the nozzle while printing. How can I avoid this, and what else should I watch out for? How should I prepare in advance for magnets placing? | [
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"text": "Unless you are using a nozzle made of magnetic metal, the magnet will not attach to the nozzle. The heater blocks... | 2023/01/06 | [
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20,459 | I am trying to print an object with this cross section (the full object is just this mirrored):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/r1cDx.png "Object")
The problem is that big overhang layer. Cura slices it like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/52SrT.jpg "Bad slice")
This is obviously going to fail. Is there any way to make Cura slice it in a spiral inwards from the outside, something like this (excuse the terrible diagram):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gLUbJ.png "Good slice") | [
{
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"text": "Angus of Maker's Muse has a [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPijCjz9G1w) which may be of value. He sugges... | 2023/01/14 | [
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20,474 | I recently had some filament get stuck in the Bowden tube so much so that I had to remove it from the stock Creality heatsink on my Ender 3 v2. As I was taking the tube out of the heatsink I noticed some residue inside:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRhQR.jpg "Photo of the Creality stock heatsink with some type of residue inside")
Do I have to replace my heatsink or can it be cleaned out? What is this residue? Will this cause problems in the future? | [
{
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20,498 | Setup: Anycubic Kobra Neo (Firmware v1.3.3), Cura 5.2.1
I recently bought an Anycubic Kobra Neo.
It works but has issues with auto bed leveling. Specifically, auto bed leveling does not compensate for bed tilt in X and Y directions correctly. After running the auto leveling, the printer consistently prints higher up in the right back corner, compared to the front left corner of the build plate.
The problem does not seem to be related to auto bed leveling being disabled though. While printing, you can see the Z lead screw turning, so the printer definitely tries to compensate for something.
What I tried:
* Print Z calibration patterns
* Run auto leveling again using the attached controller
* Run auto leveling again with the `G29` command and prior `G28` to home, followed by `M500` to save the mesh
* Add `M420 S1` to start G-code (also tried `M420 L` and both together)
* Reset EEPROM with `M502`
* Use Repetier Host instead of Cura
* Used different filament
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ct23e.jpg "Z Calibration Pattern")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DAEZC.jpg "Front left Corner of Z Calibration Pattern")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYVaG.jpg "Back Right Corner of Z Calibration Pattern") | [
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20,509 | I have an Ender 3 that I have been learning for about a month now. I’ve just started to print with PLA silk. I’ve managed to get some quite nice prints out of standard PLA and also PETG. Maybe it’s just the glossiness of the silk that is highlighting these surface zits.
I’ve already tuned my E-steps, and have done temp towers, retraction test towers, and flow tests but just can’t seem to nail what is giving me these blemishes. I’m using a .6 mm nozzle, temp tower showed 195 °C for the nozzle, 60 °C for the bed. Printing at .2 mm layer height and 50 mm feed rate.
Everything is stock except for an all-metal extruder and a BLTouch.
There seem to be a lot of profiles for Cura floating around and I tried them but most of them seem to be tailored to the standard .4 mm nozzle.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPdHH.jpg "Side view of a 3D printed model with zits on the surface")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PihNp.jpg "Another view of a 3D printed model with zits on the surface") | [
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"text": "1. Buy a better printer (Sorry, I'm going to be that guy). Judging by the visibility of the horizontal lines o... | 2023/01/29 | [
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20,510 | I recently bought a Anycubic Vyper which prints overall not bad but has a real nasty issue with stringing.
I tried out several temperatures, settings for retract distances and retraction speed but nothing seems to really work. All of my filament is new and stringing occurs with different brands so it does not seem to be caused by the filament.
When the nozzle heats up there is molten filament coming out of the nozzle even the extruder is not doing anything at all.
Is there something I can try to fix the stringing apart from taking the hotend apart?
Retraction tower with different retract-values:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOKTl.jpg "3D print showing stringing#1")
Retract test which shows the stringing:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xe0Ev.jpg "3D print showing stringing#2") | [
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20,529 | I purchased it new from Amazon in December. It started about one week ago and it just stops with a constant beep and does not allow me to do anything else except turn it off. Doesn't happen on all prints but just loses its brain.
It does save the printing but I must shut it down manually and then it picks off where it left off but still does the same thing. Printing a bonsai bowl and other things and it goes to 0 °C. Is this something I am doing incorrectly or is it a defect in the unit? To me sounds like a defect. | [
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20,538 | I'm producing a series of brackets to allow a laser cutter to be reliably positioned on a waste board\spoil board in that has a measurement grid on it, and to allow a honeycomb bed to be reliably positioned within it in relation to the laser cutter.
Essentially, I'm making 4 large right angle piece with mounting screws and stepped sides. Which will be screwed down to a piece of timber so that things can be fixed to them in the same position each time they're used.
It has a lot of corners, and 90° angles, and it looks like it was designed by a Brutalist architect.
Will bevelling1) the corners for purely aesthetic reasons have any practical effect on the print or the printing process. For example will rounder corners make the print stronger or weaker, or will it make warping more or less likely. Will it improve or harm bed adhesion, will it have any substantial effect on print time or quality?
Version 1.0
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mWPQx.png)
I'm using an Ender 5 with PLA and a 0.2 layer height. Because that's what I have on my shelf right now, and I don't want to spend any extra money on this.
---
1) *I'm using the word "bevel" because I'm using Blender to make the model (Because it's what I'm most familiar with), and you create rounded edges using the Bevel tool in Blender.* | [
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20,539 | How do I view the results from the BLTouch probing on my Ender 3?
I have set up all the firmware and installed the BLTouch fine and it works as expected. But how am I able to see the results of the `G29` 9-step probes so I can view them in a mesh visualiser?
I don’t have an OctoPrint print server, as I know this comes with a Plug-in. | [
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"text": "I used Pronterface terminal emulator and connected the printer via USB! Simple really when you figure out... | 2023/02/04 | [
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20,563 | I made a successful print before this incident with my Ender 3 S1 running Klipper firmware. After that print, it started not extruding. Well, the motor started wiggling back and forth rapidly. After the prime line, it stopped completely. I thought it might be a problem with Klipper, so I switched back to stock firmware and used a different slicer too. But it is still there. I uploaded a video of it to YouTube:
<https://youtube.com/shorts/q-ZLMg6NHng> | [
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"text": "It looks like your extruder stepper is not sequenced correctly. There are a number of possible causes of this.... | 2023/02/10 | [
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20,597 | I'm doing something special with my Ender 3 V2 Neo these days. Gotten to upgrade to the direct extruder Biqu H2 V2. Nothing is out for the Neo version yet - like adapters and such - so I have modified an Ender 3 Pro mount to make things work.
Everything is now mounted and looks awesome. But, the new extruder won't extrude. I have set the Vrefs to around 1.05 V. The E-steps are set to 932 using Pronterface. I am using Marlin firmware.
My mainboard is marked with T8 and it is using the TMC2208 driver. I have checked my stepper cable and there is good connection with the main board.
I took out my stepper motor cable from the Biqu and tried with the stepper motor cable from my X-axis, and then the Biqu finally started extruding when I adjusted the X value.
So I'm kind of puzzled of this issue?!
Is my mainboard toasted? Or could the E-stepper driver be possibly dead?
Anyone with good ideas?
After a good question on if i had worked on the board with the power ON i went into myself and thought; damn, i actually just have done that. And by trying to move the x-axis with the steppermotor just to have NOTHING happen... i think my steppermotor driver is dead by my own doing... I will buy a new one and let you guys know!! | [
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20,598 | Can anyone tell me what would cause an entire print to be shifted about 8mm?
I have a new Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (which is doing an awesome job so far!).
I started printing this [Treasure Chest Puzzle Box](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5414034) overnight, and this morning it looked pretty good until I noticed that after approximately 3 layers, the print shifted by about 8mm. I think it shifted again by about 1mm after 1 layer. The rest of the print is perfect.
Unfortunately, I pulled the print off and closed my Cura file before I took note of which direction the print was on the bed, so I don't know which dimension was shifted - the direction the bed slides or the direction the extruder head moves.
I printed on the normal Cura profile.
Thanks.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GdXue.png) | [
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20,613 | I've been getting deeper and deeper down the rabbit hole of UBL and I am losing my mind!
Just installed the CR Touch and I am having print issue after print issue with larger prints despite manually leveling the bed (bed adjustment not UBL manual) to the best of my ability.
* Ender 3 v1
* Board: Creality 4.2.7
* Firmware: Marlin 2.1.2
* Firmware config: [`configuration.h`](https://www.dropbox.com/s/5bveiho4uh21iea/Configuration.h?dl=0)
* Hotend: Creality Direct Drive Sprite Pro
* UBL Sensor: CR Touch
The height map clearly shows an issue - I just don't know how to fix it.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mbfEP.png "Screenshot of the bed mesh")
Of note - `G29 P1` will only get through 44 of the 100 touchpoints
Here is the code I ran through to generate the mesh:
```
G28 ; home all axes
M420 S0 ; Turning off bed leveling while probing, if firmware is set
; to restore after G28
M155 S30 ; reduce temperature reporting rate to reduce output pollution
M190 S65 ; (optional) wait for the bed to get up to temperature
G29 P1 ; automatically populate mesh with all reachable points
G29 P3 ; infer the rest of the mesh values
G29 P3 ; infer the rest of the mesh values again
@BEDLEVELVISUALIZER ; tell the plugin to watch for reported mesh
M420 S1 V ; enabled leveling and report the new mesh
G29 S0 ; Save UBL mesh points to slot 0 (EEPROM).
G29 F 10.0 ; Set Fade Height for correction at 10.0 mm.
G29 A ; Activate the UBL System.
M500 ; save the current setup to EEPROM
M155 S3 ; reset temperature reporting
M140 S0 ; cooling down the bed
``` | [
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20,630 | I am just getting into printing and would like some direction on my current project. I am building a display cube, and I would like to have an LED light on both the left and right sides. The battery pack/power would come up from the bottom.
I am using freeCad as my design tool. My initial thought would be to create a pocket where the LEDs will be at and then create holes leading back to the bottom. That seems like the logical solution.
Another option I had was to create channels on the inside of the square and run my cables through those. However, this will make the cables visible, and also show the channels.
My final option would be to hollow out the insides with a little bit left for the surfaces.
With all of these options, I can see pros and cons, so that is why I am looking for a little guidance. | [
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20,636 | I've got one particular print which is causing me problems. I've printed other things without changing the filament or printer, so the problem is at least partially the print itself, which has a lot of supports and unconnected sections. What sorts of things can I do to fix this? I'm printing on an Ender 3 Pro and using Ultimaker Cura for slicing.
I print in PLA at 200 °C. The print bed is set to 40 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100%. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4 mm from the 0.4 mm nozzle. I'm not positive what my print speed was set to, but I think I tried it at the default (50 mm/s infill) and then a second time slower (20-30 mm/s, probably). Regardless, the wall speed was set to half whatever the infill speed is. My retraction is 6.5 mm/off at 25 mm/s.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIHAD.jpg) | [
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"text": "6.5 mm retraction seems to be way too high. Try lowering it to 3 mm or even 2 mm. (I have my ... | 2023/03/01 | [
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20,650 | I have been researching how to stack models using Cura and I was wondering if it would be possible to stack a model like the image below, where the top is not a flat surface. There are a couple of shapes (mainly circles and a cross) that stick out of an otherwise flat rectangle. The bottom of the model is also flat.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEcPF.png "Screenshot of a rectangular 3D model with circles and a cross on top in Cura")
Let me know what your thoughts are regarding this, if I should use some form of supports or not, or if this is just not possible. Thank you!
Edit: Forgot to include some details. I'm using an Ender 3 3D printer with 1.75 mm PLA filament. The print itself has a 0.8 mm thick rectangular base and all of the circles and the cross stick out an additional 0.8 mm. | [
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20,664 | I've an Ender 3 and a piece broke.
The part that is broken is on top of the Z stepper motor that guides the filament to the extruder.
The metal "guide wheel" that hugs the filament as its pushed through, the plate beneath it broke. I dropped a socket wrench on it. -- it's just sitting there in the photo, but it's not doing it job.
Do I have to replace the whole stepper motor or can I just get the feeder thing that sits on top of the motor?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouABu.jpg "This thing...")
I don't know what it's called so it's tough to search for | [
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"text": "#### Replacing the broken part\n\nYou certainly don't need to buy a *whole* new extruder assembly, including a ... | 2023/03/09 | [
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20,672 | I'm working on tuning an old Ultimaker 2 Go, and I'm having some weird extrusion issues. The printer uses a Bowden extruder. Extrusion seems to increase and decrease. I don't think it is the filament quality, as I am using Prusament PLA that I am storing in a dark closet inside a sealed bag with silica gel. I also did multiple cold pulls until no debris. I do notice that sometimes the filament appears to bubble. The extruding motor also sometimes slips/snaps back while changing filament, but not during prints.
However, I am using 1.75 mm filament while the printer is designed for 2.85 mm. In order to do this, I followed some steps I found from All3D.
I also have a small PVC jig to hold the filament, but I think it turns pretty well and shouldn't be the issue.
Filament: PLA, Temp: 215 °C, Slicer: Cura
\*Update:
I calibrated the e-steps and all of the axes, but the problem still remains.
I also printed an XYZ cube, and there is a line right under the letters X and Y. It also appears that the extrusion is more inconsistent outside of the letters. I'm pretty sure this issue is related to the weird first-layer pattern, or this is just a cooling issue due to varying cooling %.
Filament: PLA, Temp: 215 °C, Slicer: PrusaSlicer
 | [
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20,697 | I have just calibrated my extruder and everything is ok. When I extrude 100 mm of filament, everything is correct, but when I attach the Bowden tube to the nozzle, the length of filament that is extruded is not correct - it is much shorter. Is that normal?
The nozzle is almost new. It was working for only a few hours. How can I fix it? Do I need a new nozzle, or there is some another issue?
I tried some prints and they were just fine. Before calibration, they were terrible.
The method that I used to calibrate is described here, [Stupid Fast Way To Calibrate E Steps On Ender 3 (V2/Pro)](https://makershop.co/how-to-calibrate-esteps-ender-3/), calibrated with and without the Bowden tube - on the another end before nozzle. But when I attach the Bowden tube and extrude, the nozzle is all wrong.
I used the method from the link above. My prints were terrible before calibration. Using this method now my prints are ok. Method is without Bowden tube, printer extrude in the air. But when I extrude from nozzle distance in much shorter. Is that normal? Or is the method used to calibrate correct and enough? | [
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20,703 | I created a box in Blender and exported that into an STL file and it seems to be failing to render the correct walls. The box looks like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScTFu.png "Nice looking box")
But when I open it in Cura, it looks like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/O8lt1.png "Not so nice looking box")
Is there something I'm exporting incorrectly or something else I'm missing? | [
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"text": "This may be related to a characteristic of the numerous slicers methods of handling single thickness walls. If yo... | 2023/03/18 | [
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20,728 | On my Prusa MK3, I'm trying to make a G-code that only heats up the print bed and moves the Z-axis up and down a little bit every 20 mins to prevent the safety timer going off. This is what I have done:
1. Sliced a random file with PrusaSlicer.
2. Opened it in TextEdit.
3. Deleted the G-code for:
* the actual print
* heating the nozzle
* waiting for the nozzle to heat up
4. Changed the G-code to heat the bed to 50 °C.
5. Inserted this G-code:
```
G28,
G1 Z190 Y140 F500,
G4 S1200,
G1 Z188,
G1 Z190,
```
6. Copied and pasted `G4 S1200, G1 Z188, G1 Z190` command 11 times - total of 12 instances.
I believe this should last a total of slightly more than 4 hours, right? I Just want to make sure before I possibly break my printer or if there is a better way to do this. | [
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20,730 | I'm very new into 3D printing.
I brought an Ender 6 and a cover for ABS printing, but the standard white Bowden tube was too short to pass through the hole of the cover. So I'm replacing the Bowden tube for a Capricorn one.
However, the manufacturer (Captubes.com) only states that their 2 meter [kit](https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/XS-Creality-Kit-2-Meter/p/123266814/category=23214267) is compatible with CR-10 and Ender 3.
Is this kit also compatible with an Ender 6? | [
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"text": "It sounds like you're trying to move the E motor outside the enclosure. Don't do that. Bowde... | 2023/03/26 | [
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20,743 | I have created an action figure and would like to print it.
Anyway, I am not sure the best way to print it, the action figure can be printed only once but the duration is 10 hours. If I separate the part, the time is concise, but I need to do some changes to my file. What is the best way to print an action figure?
If the second method is the better (separate arm, legs, etc.), does exist a good way to do the join between parts?
My 3d printer is Elegoo Mars, so I use Chitubox.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xTWE0.png) | [
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"text": "Printing a complex object like this one from an attached photo requires a few factors to consider, such as prin... | 2023/03/29 | [
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20,748 | My printer's hot end heats up way faster than the bed. Still, it takes its sweet time, and Cura's default startup sequence: heat the bed, wait for bed to reach target temperature, heat hot-end, wait to reach hot-end temperature, proceed - takes considerably more that it should.
```
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating bed
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for bed to reach temp
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating extruder
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for extruder to reach temp
```
Sure I could start heating both to target temperature simultaneously and then wait for both, but then I'll be baking unmoving filament in the nozzle for much longer than necessary. What I'd like to do is to start heating the nozzle when the bed is about 20 °C short of its target temperature - that causes them to reach their target temperatures nearly simultaneously. Something along the lines of:
```
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating bed
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 20} ;Wait for bed to be 20 degrees before target
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating extruder
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for bed to reach temp
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for extruder to reach temp
```
Except `S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 20}` isn't recognized as a valid substitution.
How can I achieve the desired effect? | [
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"text": "Cura doesn't allow math operations in G-code scripts, if you want to do that you should use Slic3r or PrusaSlicer.\n... | 2023/03/30 | [
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20,767 | Everywhere you can read how to **try** to "hide" the seam, but nowhere there is an attempt to eliminate this problem.
And the proof that it is possible is the prepared G-code added to the Ender printer on the SD card. (the exact name of the file is [`3-Cat.gcode`](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Cnv37A2r_2v_kqtlao5ZksMwqx6ZEsPO/view?usp=sharing))
This little figurine has no seam at all! The print is so perfect that I can't believe it.
The question is why slicers don't create such G-codes so that the seam is hidden inside the printed object, not on its wall.
I have printed this figurine six times already, in different colors and different brands of filament.
All prints are **perfect**!
What do you think about it? Can this be done in a slicer? (I can add this file somewhere but I don't know where.)
Seam in diferent retraction distance (retract on layer change turned on):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSuBG.jpg) | [
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"text": "It's done by tweaking the retraction setting in your slicer.\n\nIn Cura the main setting affecting this is under ... | 2023/04/02 | [
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20,776 | I just swapped out my MicroSwiss direct-drive extruder and hotend for a Creality Sprite Pro on my Ender 3 with an upgraded mother board to the BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 and I'm experiencing thermal runaway on power-on.
Previous (working) configuration:
* Ender 3 pro
* BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 loaded with Klipper firmware
* MicroSwiss direct-drive
New configuration:
* Ender 3 pro
* BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 loaded with klipper firmware
* Creality Sprite Pro
Steps that I'm taking to hit thermal runaway:
1. Turn on power switch for the Ender 3 Pro.
NOTE: Thermal Runaway Protection does not work here. The TRP detects and triggers, but Klipper doesn't seem to have any ability to control the heating tube. Instead, Klipper shuts down and the heating tube keeps running away. Each time I've had to cut the power manually.
Additional things that I've tried:
* **Powering on using the power from the Raspberry Pi's USB port** - this powers on the printer but will error on any attempt to drive motors or run the extruder. RESULT: thermal runaway to the best that it can, plateauing around 60 °C.
* **Powering on using the power from the Raspberry Pi's USB port, then disconnecting and powering on without the Raspberry Pi connected, then powering down and reconnecting the Raspberry Pi** - this confirms for me that in the absence of the Raspberry Pi, it still reaches a runaway state; RESULT: monitoring before and after powering manually showed a jump of 100 °C in 30 seconds, meaning if the printer has power, it will power the heating tube with as much as it can.
* **Reversing the + and - wires** - this is the recommendation in the instruction manual, *"If 3D printer restarts during hotend heating up, please reverse the heating tube connectors on mainboard"*; RESULT: prevents the printer from powering on - everything appears dead and returning the cables to the correct polarities returns it to a runaway state. | [
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"text": "It's done by tweaking the retraction setting in your slicer.\n\nIn Cura the main setting affecting this is under ... | 2023/04/03 | [
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20,784 | After fiddling with the settings on my Cura profile, my Ender 3 S1 is now messing up my prints in a weird way. While printing, it just pauses at a corner on all the layers of the print for a second or so, leading to large blobs of material building up there. **What setting(s), if any could be causing this?**
As a note, my Cura settings are anything but default. I mess around with a lot of different options to try to optimize my prints. I could reset the profile to default, but I'd rather keep most of my settings.
Here is a picture of the issue:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cJude.jpg) | [
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"text": "It's done by tweaking the retraction setting in your slicer.\n\nIn Cura the main setting affecting this is under ... | 2023/04/05 | [
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