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Sky Island OFF-THE-GRID West texas compound, FORT DAVIS, texas. This home utilizes a courtyard plan oriented to take advantage of the sun’s path and the predominant summer breezes. With careful attention to shading and ventilation, this house has no need for air conditioning. Entirely off the grid, the house relies on a photovoltaic array for power, with rainwater collection for water. The insulated double thick masonry walls provide shelter from the cold winter winds and storms from the northwest.   Local sandstone, laid in “eroding” cladding patterns evoke the “sky island” concept, reflecting the mountains and plateaus that surround it.
dclm_baseline
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Friday, September 20, 2013 On Zero Correlation and Statistical Independence I put the following material together yesterday in response to a request from one of our grad. students. I thought it might be helpful to some readers of the blog. © 2013, David E. Giles 1. It is also can be seen from the independence=>zero correlation result, that independence can be equivalently written as X and Y are independent if E[g(X)f(Y)] = E[g(X)]E[f(Y)] for each pair of bounded and continuous functions g,f. It is clear then why zero correlation, or E[XY]=E[X]E[Y] is not sufficient for independence. 2. A uniformly-distributed point on a chessboard is a nice example for this and some related things. - colour, row, and column are pairwise independent, but row and column completely determine colour. - colour is uncorrelated with, but perfectly determined by, diagonal position (ie, row+column)
dclm_baseline
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Smart phone sanitizers Which Are Liquor Totally free Are Amazing Smart phone sanitizers are becoming extremely popular and in need nationally. Malware, bacteria and conditions have significantly led to the interest in hand cleaning choices. The distribute of Swine Winter flu, Whooping Coughing, MRSA and other national illnesses has only greater the excitement of the necessity of disinfecting. Nationwide colleges, medical facilities, chapels, malls, airport terminals, buildings and stores supply additional numerous dispensers for anyone to correctly disinfect their hands. Low-Alcoholic drinks Smart phone sanitizers recently grow to be far more preferred than alcohol dependent options. Research has shown how the physique can eventually turn out to be resistant to liquor structured options, hence getting rid of the potency of while using anti-bacterial. Liquor products also often dry out the skin. They are famous for destroying safety skin tiers because of the severe substance.Smartphone sanitizer Low-Alcohol structured Smart phone sanitizers are merely as effective as alcoholic drinks dependent. Independent studies have shown that no-liquor sanitizers are 99.99% great at eliminating easily passed on infections. No-Alcoholic drinks products do not dry out the skin and are very much less dangerous for youngsters to make use of. They are usually milder on your skin and not bothersome. The reduction of liquor in smartsanitizer pro is starting to become considerably more popular with much more alcoholic drinks free possibilities turning into accessible. Offices throughout the us have seen a tremendous advantage in introducing Smart phone sanitizer products throughout the building. This assists conserve a wholesome office. Absenteeism could be reduced by supporting workers battle the germs that encompass work. Studies have shown the office keeps much more bacteria’s as a result of shared use of cell phones, computers, pressing file units, entry doors and crack rooms. The installation of in places of work for employees is easy, an inexpensive and it is far better for your personal customers. The most common alcohol free sanitizers are so popular and Hy5. Eliminating alcoholic drinks in sanitizers is less dangerous for the kids and much better to your skin. Alcoholic drinks hand cleaners are flammable increasing their chance. The CDC has recently pointed out the potential risk of alcoholic drinks in sanitizers, hence improving the requirement for a sanitizer that is certainly free of alcohol. Smart phone sanitizers have lots of attractive advantages and will keep growing in acceptance as folks look to scrub the germs out.
dclm_baseline
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12 months 1 bag every fortnight 12 month gift subscription 1 bag every 2 weeks 12 months 1 bag every fortnight 1 bag every fortnight for 12 months (total 26 bags). How it Works Regular price £187.50 How it works 01 - Choose your coffee 02 - Select how often you would like your coffee delivered. 03 - Enjoy! Once you have set up your subscription, sit back, relax and we will freshly roast your coffee and deliver it to your door. All our subscription coffees are roasted and sent out every Monday.
dclm_baseline
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The Migraine Stigma • Health By Principle Staff Approximately 30 million people in the US suffer from migraines, that’s a lot of people who suffer from severe pain. While a migraine isn’t a disease based on recent research, the pain and other symptoms are severe and interrupt a migraine sufferer’s daily activities. Many people tend to discount migraine pain as just another headache. People don’t really understand the complexity of the condition, thus making sufferers feel like their migraines are not something they should worry about. Many doctors often prescribe seizure or antidepressant medicines for migraines that don’t solve the problem.  OTC medicines don’t even provide temporarily pain relief and nothing currently given for migraines provide long term solution. Many people might not seek medical attention because of the stigma attached to migraines as “a mental condition”. Research shows that migraine is genetic and that it is a different brain from the brain of people without migraines. The brain becomes more complex thus creating more brain cell receptor connections that in return create heightened sensitivities to scents, light, sounds, touch and taste. People who don’t suffer from migraines cannot relate to migraines, hence the stigma that it’s just a headache. Don’t let anything stop you from researching and learning about migraines. There are many steps you can take towards understanding what triggers your migraines and how to prevent them or stop them in their tracks. Research find that the most common cause of migraine is electrolyte imbalance. Many migraines can be prevented by resetting electrolyte homeostasis. At Health by Principle you will find resources that can help you maintain electrolyte homeostasis. Leave a comment Please note, comments must be approved before they are published
dclm_baseline
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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> <html lang='en' xml:lang='en' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml'> <head> <title>app/controllers/trips_controller.rb</title> <link href="screen.css" media="all" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" /> <link href="print.css" media="print" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" /> <meta http-equiv="Content-type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> <script type="text/javascript" src="rcov.js"></script> </head> <body> <h1>Rides C0 Coverage Information - RCov</h1> <h2>app/controllers/trips_controller.rb</h2> <div class="report_table_wrapper"> <table class='report' id='report_table'> <thead> <tr> <th class="left_align">Name</th> <th class="right_align">Total Lines</th> <th class="right_align">Lines of Code</th> <th class="left_align">Total Coverage</th> <th class="left_align">Code Coverage</th> </tr> </thead> <tbody> <tr> <td class="left_align"><a href="app-controllers-trips_controller_rb.html">app/controllers/trips_controller.rb</a></td> <td class='right_align'><tt>128</tt></td> <td class='right_align'><tt>97</tt></td> <td class="left_align"><div class="percent_graph_legend"><tt class=''>49.22%</tt></div> <div class="percent_graph"> <div class="covered" style="width:49px"></div> <div class="uncovered" style="width:51px"></div> </div></td> <td class="left_align"><div class="percent_graph_legend"><tt class=''>47.42%</tt></div> <div class="percent_graph"> <div class="covered" style="width:47px"></div> <div class="uncovered" style="width:53px"></div> </div></td> </tr> </tbody> </table> </div> <h3>Key</h3> <div class="key"><pre><span class='marked'>Code reported as executed by Ruby looks like this...</span><span class='marked1'>and this: this line is also marked as covered.</span><span class='inferred'>Lines considered as run by rcov, but not reported by Ruby, look like this,</span><span class='inferred1'>and this: these lines were inferred by rcov (using simple heuristics).</span><span class='uncovered'>Finally, here's a line marked as not executed.</span></pre></div> <h3>Coverage Details</h3> <table class="details"> <tbody> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line1">1</a> class TripsController &lt; ApplicationController</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line2">2</a> before_filter :authenticate_person!</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line3">3</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line4">4</a> # GET /trips</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line5">5</a> def index</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line6">6</a> if !params[:month].nil? &amp;&amp; !params[:year].nil?</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line7">7</a> @trips = current_person.trips.select do |trip|</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line8">8</a> trip.time.month == params[:month].to_i &amp;&amp; trip.time.year == params[:year].to_i</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line9">9</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line10">10</a> else</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line11">11</a> @trips = current_person.trips</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line12">12</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="inferred"> <td><pre><a name="line13">13</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="inferred"> <td><pre><a name="line14">14</a> @months_with_trips = current_person.trips.map do |trip|</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line15">15</a> trip.time</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line16">16</a> end.sort.reverse.map do |time|</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line17">17</a> {:month =&gt; time.month, :year =&gt; time.year}</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line18">18</a> end.uniq</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="inferred"> <td><pre><a name="line19">19</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line20">20</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line21">21</a> # GET /trips/1/participants</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line22">22</a> def participants</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line23">23</a> @trip = Trip.find(params[:id])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line24">24</a> @participants = @trip.participants.sort_by {|participant| participant.name}</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line25">25</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line26">26</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line27">27</a> # DELETE /trips/1/participants</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line28">28</a> def leave</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line29">29</a> @trip = Trip.find(params[:id])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line30">30</a> @trip.participants.delete(current_person)</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line31">31</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line32">32</a> redirect_to(person_root_url, :notice =&gt; &quot;You are no longer participating in #{@trip.name}&quot;)</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line33">33</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line34">34</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line35">35</a> # GET /trips/1</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line36">36</a> def show</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line37">37</a> @trip = Trip.find(params[:id])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line38">38</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line39">39</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line40">40</a> # GET /trips/new</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line41">41</a> def new</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line42">42</a> @trip = current_person.organized_trips.build</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line43">43</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line44">44</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line45">45</a> # GET /trips/1/edit</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line46">46</a> def edit</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line47">47</a> @trip = current_person.organized_trips.find(params[:id])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line48">48</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line49">49</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line50">50</a> # POST /trips</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line51">51</a> def create</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line52">52</a> @trip = current_person.organized_trips.build(params[:trip])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line53">53</a> @trip.participants &lt;&lt; current_person</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line54">54</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line55">55</a> if @trip.save</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line56">56</a> redirect_to(@trip, :notice =&gt; 'Trip was successfully created.')</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line57">57</a> else</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line58">58</a> render :action =&gt; &quot;new&quot;</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line59">59</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="inferred"> <td><pre><a name="line60">60</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line61">61</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line62">62</a> # PUT /trips/1</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line63">63</a> def update</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line64">64</a> @trip = Trip.find(params[:id])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line65">65</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line66">66</a> if @trip.update_attributes(params[:trip])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line67">67</a> redirect_to(@trip, :notice =&gt; 'Trip was successfully updated.')</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line68">68</a> else</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line69">69</a> render :action =&gt; &quot;edit&quot;</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line70">70</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="inferred"> <td><pre><a name="line71">71</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line72">72</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line73">73</a> # DELETE /trips/1</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line74">74</a> def destroy</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line75">75</a> @trip = Trip.find(params[:id])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line76">76</a> @trip.destroy</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line77">77</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line78">78</a> redirect_to(person_root_url)</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line79">79</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line80">80</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line81">81</a> # POST /trips/1/invite</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line82">82</a> def invite</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line83">83</a> @trip = Trip.find(params[:id])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line84">84</a> @invitee = Person.find(:first, :conditions =&gt; [ &quot;email = ?&quot;, params[:email] ])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line85">85</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line86">86</a> if (!@invitee)</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line87">87</a> logger.info(&quot;Creating new person&quot;)</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line88">88</a> @invitee = Person.create!({:email =&gt; params[:email],</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line89">89</a> :name =&gt; nil,</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line90">90</a> :phone =&gt; nil,</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line91">91</a> :address =&gt; nil,</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line92">92</a> :password =&gt; &quot;temppassword&quot;,</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line93">93</a> :music =&gt; 'no_preference',</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line94">94</a> :smoking =&gt; 'no_preference'</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line95">95</a> })</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line96">96</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line97">97</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line98">98</a> if @trip.participants.include?(@invitee)</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line99">99</a> flash[:notice] = &quot;Error: #{@invitee.name} is already a participant of that trip.&quot;</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line100">100</a> render :action =&gt; &quot;show&quot;</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line101">101</a> return</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line102">102</a> else</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line103">103</a> invitation = @trip.invite!(@invitee)</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line104">104</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line105">105</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line106">106</a> if @trip.save</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line107">107</a> PersonMailer.invitation_notification(@invitee).deliver</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line108">108</a> redirect_to(@trip, :notice =&gt; &quot;Invited #{@invitee.email} to trip.&quot;)</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line109">109</a> else</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line110">110</a> if (duplicate_error = invitation.errors[:pending_trip_id][0])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line111">111</a> flash[:notice] = duplicate_error</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line112">112</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line113">113</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line114">114</a> render :action =&gt; &quot;show&quot;</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line115">115</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line116">116</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line117">117</a> </pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line118">118</a> # GET /trips/1/join</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line119">119</a> def join</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="marked"> <td><pre><a name="line120">120</a> @trip = Trip.find(params[:id])</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line121">121</a> @trip.participants &lt;&lt; @trip.invitees.delete(current_person) unless !@trip.invitees.include?(current_person)</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line122">122</a> if @trip.save</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line123">123</a> redirect_to(@trip, :notice =&gt; &quot;You joined trip #{@trip.name}.&quot;)</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line124">124</a> else</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line125">125</a> render :action =&gt; &quot;show&quot;</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line126">126</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line127">127</a> end</pre></td> </tr> <tr class="uncovered"> <td><pre><a name="line128">128</a> end</pre></td> </tr> </tbody> </table> <p>Generated on 2010-11-22 21:31:46 -0800 with <a href="http://github.com/relevance/rcov">rcov 0.9.8</a></p> </body> </html>
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Harvey Has Hit Undocumented Immigrants Worst of All Officials have promised that undocumented people are safe at shelters. But fear is keeping some of Houston's most vulnerable residents away. Aug 30 2017, 6:51pm A Houston resident walking through water on August 29. Photo by Win McNamee/Getty Images As the floodwaters rose, trapping Luis and his family in their Houston home and threatening to burst through the door, his anxiety mounted. His one-week-old granddaughter was short on formula; within two days, he'll have to swim to a store. "We can't leave… but I'm going to have to leave to look for food for her," Luis, a 50-year-old undocumented Mexican immigrant who requested I not publish his last name, told me on the phone. His family is avoiding shelters or government aid because they're petrified of deportation, particularly since Texas's anti-sanctuary cities bill, allowing police to ask individuals their immigration status, takes effect Friday. "The only thing we can do is try to get help from family members," Luis, who works in the kitchen at a Houston golf course, said. The anti-sanctuary cities bill, along with the Trump administration's recent deportations of undocumented immigrants who have committed no crimes, had eroded his trust in the government. "We see people being deported for no reason—family who have been stopped on their way to work. How is the government going to help people without papers?" Amid one of the worst natural disasters in US history, local, state, and federal officials have pledged to aid all residents and to refrain from immigration enforcement in shelters and emergency missions. That's an important decision given the estimated 575,000 undocumented immigrants in Houston. But Luis and his family are among the many too afraid to seek such support. "People have taken to social media saying, 'Don't go to shelters,' spreading rumors of immigration raids," said Cesar Espinosa, director of the immigrant support organization FIEL Houston, who is trying to spread the word that undocumented residents are safe to go to such shelters. "Yesterday a lady with three kids called me and told me four feet of water had come into her apartment, and she asked if it was safe to go to the shelter because she heard rumors shelters would be checking papers," Espinosa told me. "We told her immediately, 'Yes, it's safe, go!'" In the continuing chaos of Harvey, it remains unclear how many undocumented residents have refrained from seeking help, said Espinosa. He has been unable to leave his house in the Houston suburb of Cypress, but is trying to do whatever he can to dispel myths, including flagging tweets that immigration agents lurk in shelters. Another Houston immigrant organizer, Oscar Hernandez, of the organization United We Dream, told me he instructs each family to decide for themselves whether to go to a shelter, since he still feels unsure what might happen. "I don't want to tell families not to go if they're desperate… and if they're deported, we'll make it into a scandal, if they were discriminated against for this reason," said Hernandez, 29, a Houston homeowner who has deportation relief under DACA since he immigrated to the US as a child. "Friday it could get even worse than it is now," he continued, referring to the implementation of what critics call Texas's "show me your papers" law. Houston officials, however, are emphatically communicating that immigrants are welcome and safe in shelters, regardless of the law. Mayor Sylvester Turner said at a press conference Monday there is "absolutely no reason why anyone should not call" for help, and that the anti-sanctuary bill SB4 should be put "on the shelf" during rescue efforts. "If someone comes and they require help and then for some reason [someone] tries to deport them, I will represent them myself," said Turner, who is an attorney. "I don't care who you are. I don't care what your status is. I do not want you to run the risk of losing your life or [that of] a family member because you're concerned about SB 4 or anything else." Turner has also repeatedly shared the city of Houston's tweet stating that "we will not ask for immigration status or papers from anyone at any shelter." "This is an emergency response—anybody is welcome to the shelters no matter who they are," the Houston Police Department's public information officer, Porfirio Villarreal, told me. The Department of Homeland Security has vowed in a press release that "routine non-criminal immigration enforcement operations will not be conducted at evacuation sites, or assistance centers such as shelters or food banks," and Texas governor Greg Abbott confirmed the plan in an interview with MSNBC. "What everyone is focused on right now is doing all we can to protect life," Abbott told MSNBC Friday, claiming that legal status would "not be an issue." Abbott's press office did not immediately return requests for comment on SB4's effects on undocumented Harvey victims. But in the past the governor has maintained that the law serves to ensure public safety "by keeping dangerous criminals off our streets." President Donald Trump has also said his illegal immigration crackdown is necessary to protect the lives and jobs of US citizens. Kate Vickery, executive director of the Houston Immigration Legal Services Collaborative, a network of legal service providers serving low-income immigrants, encouraged the undocumented population to believe the government's messages to preserve their lives. "It's so important that we fan the flame of people's anxiety," Vickery told me. "People need to seek shelter and not be afraid of immigration enforcement." But assuaging the undocumented community's anxiety is particularly difficult given the Trump administration's rhetoric and enforcement record, said John Sandweg, former acting director of Immigration and Customs Enforcement and former acting general counsel of the DHS. "Everything the current administration is doing is eroding what little trust there was," Sandweg, who served under Barack Obama, told me. Homeland Security's Harvey press release did seem to mirror the previous administration's statements during natural disasters, sending "the general message that they don't want to be a deterrent for anyone to flee an area," said Sandweg. But he noted the Obama administration would likely have closed Border Patrol checkpoints, whereas Trump's DHS kept them open during Harvey, possibly jeopardizing evacuation routes. Sandweg also said that during such public disasters, DHS typically rerouted ICE criminal investigators to conduct first-responder duties instead. "Hopefully they're 100 percent dedicated to helping the state emergency management," said Sandweg. A DHS press officer would not respond to further questions about the agency's enforcement or aid during Harvey, but instead directed me to their press release. Texas's impending anti-sanctuary cities bill also has the effect of making undocumented immigrants more scared of law enforcement—and cops commonly serve as security at emergency shelters, noted Houston immigration attorney Mana Yegani. "Any interaction with law enforcement has created a fear in the community, even though law enforcement is there to help," she told me. Now, just two days before SB4 takes effect, immigration advocates cling to the hope that the law might be at least delayed. A federal judge is currently hearing a lawsuit against the state to block the law. "I'm hoping the court will consider this storm and execute a stay temporarily," Democratic Texas state representative Eddie Rodriguez of Austin, an outspoken opponent of the law, told me. "No one could have foreseen how devastating this storm could have ended up being… These are not normal circumstances." Even if Houston's undocumented residents access short-term emergency relief, the months—even years—ahead are likely to be a struggle. Undocumented immigrants do not qualify for FEMA assistance, and legal aid organizations by law cannot serve the population since the organizations receive federal funds. And beyond these days of crisis, the Texas police will—barring a judge's orders—be charged with conducting immigration enforcement. "It's going to be real now. If people get trapped underwater and a cop comes, are they going to be asked for their documentation?" posed Espinosa. "People have been asking those questions." The storm's aftermath, combined with the new law, is certain to drive even more immigrants from a state that has already begun to lose those employees, Elmer, an undocumented construction worker in Houston, told me. "I have colleagues who lost everything, homes, cars… We work in construction, we build schools, and the city is going to need us to rebuild after the storm," said Elmer, 32, who has been in Houston for eight years. He said his cousins and friends have already left for other states, and his colleagues, now homeless and threatened with deportation, have lost any reason to stay. "This is a mistake," he said. "It's going to hurt the state." If you want to help those affected by Harvey, please consider donating to the Houston Food Bank here, or other organizations recommended by the Texas Monthly here. Follow Meredith Hoffman on Twitter. VICE Channels
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To install click the Add extension button. That's it. Kelly Slayton Congratulations on this excellent venture… what a great idea! Alexander Grigorievskiy Live Statistics English Articles Improved in 24 Hours Added in 24 Hours House of Saddam From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia House of Saddam House of Saddam.jpg Title card Written byAlex Holmes Stephen Butchard StarringYigal Naor Shohreh Aghdashloo Philip Arditti Amr Waked Said Taghmaoui Christine Stephen-Daly Theme music composerSamuel Sim Country of originUnited Kingdom United States Original language(s)English No. of episodes4 Producer(s)Alex Holmes Hilary Salmon Steve Lightfoot Running time60 minutes, each episode. Original releaseJuly 30 – 20 August 2008 (2008-08-20) House of Saddam is a 2008 drama that charted the rise and fall of Saddam Hussein. A co-production between BBC Television and HBO Films, the series was first broadcast on BBC Two (in the United Kingdom) in four parts between 30 July and 20 August 2008. Part I A pre-title sequence is set in March 2003, showing Saddam watching the broadcast of President George W. Bush's ultimatum to leave Ba'athist Iraq within forty-eight hours. As the bombing of Baghdad commences, Saddam and his family flee the presidential palace. 1979: Shortly after the Iranian Revolution, Iraqi vice president Saddam Hussein fears the increasing influence of the Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini, as well as Iraqi president Ahmed Hassan al-Bakr's proposed union with Syria. Saddam instigates the overthrow of President al-Bakr. After being appointed president, Saddam orders his half-brother, Barzan Ibrahim al-Tikriti, to initiate a bloody purge of the Ba'ath Party leadership in order to wipe out "traitors". Saddam himself executes his closest friend and ally, Adnan Hamdani, as a show of strength. The Islamic Dawa Party rocks Baghdad with a series of terrorist attacks while Saddam is on a hunting trip in Tikrit with his wife Sajida Talfah and son Uday. Saddam attempts to maintain good relations with the United States as he declares war on Iran while trying to maintain his relationship with his sons Uday (Aris Sahin) and Qusay (played by Raed Khelfi). Meanwhile, he begins an affair with married school teacher Samira Shahbandar. Saddam orders the execution of two Iraqi generals after a military defeat at Khorramshahr, and turns against Barzan following the death of their mother; this puts the arranged marriage of Raghad, Saddam's daughter, and Mohammed, Barzan's son, in jeopardy. After Saddam survives an assassination attempt in the Dawa stronghold of Dujail, Barzan fears for his own life and razes the city in retribution. Saddam exiles Barzan to Switzerland and marries Raghad to Hussein Kamel al-Majid, forming an alliance with the al-Majid clan. Hussein Kamel takes over Barzan's post and becomes the new leader of the Special Republican Guard. Part II 1988: As the war with Iran ends, an unstable Uday fires a gun in a Baghdad nightclub. Meanwhile, Saddam declares victory over Iran, even though Iraq has suffered heavy losses and is facing bankruptcy; the Iraqi economy is also being hampered by Kuwait, which is over-producing oil and driving down its price. Sajida learns that Saddam has married Samira as a second wife, and blames his trusted valet, Kamel Hana Gegeo, for assisting their affair. Uday almost kills the valet for the sake of his mother's honour, sparing him only so that he can control him when he succeeds his father. Hussein Kamel attempts to rise within the regime's inner circle by sowing mistrust between Saddam and Adnan. Saddam's foreign minister, Tariq Aziz, travels to an OPEC meeting in Geneva and reveals that Kuwait has been slant drilling into Iraqi oil fields, demanding that the Kuwaitis cease. Saddam's new marriage to Samira leaves Uday fearful that the couple's presumptive children will jeopardize his status as Saddam's heir. Uday confronts Kamel Hana at a late-night party and beats him to death to the horror of witnesses. After having Uday arrested, Saddam ponders on killing his first-born son in his cell. Adnan Khairallah questions Uday's abilities as Iraq's future leader, but is not supported by Hussein Kamel, who continues to gain Saddam's trust. Not long after, Adnan is killed in a suspicious helicopter explosion. Sajida confronts Saddam about her brother's death, but he dismisses her with claims that it was merely an accident. 1990-1991: Saddam meets with April Glaspie, the U.S. ambassador to Iraq, and takes her statement of "no opinion" as giving him tacit approval to invade Kuwait. However, President George H. W. Bush immediately decries the action and organizes an international coalition to drive out Saddam's forces. Saddam refuses to back down, and is forced to move between safe-houses as the First Gulf War commences with the U.S.-led bombing of Baghdad. Samira is seriously injured in a car accident during the bombings. The Iraqi Army is quickly forced into retreat as the coalition unleashes its ground offensive. However, the U.S. declares a ceasefire and withdraws from the Iraqi border, leaving Saddam defiant as American bombers drop propaganda leaflets encouraging Iraqis to stand against him. Part III 1995: The Gulf War has left Iraq economically crippled. The United Nations refuses to lift sanctions unless the government agrees to dismantle Iraq's weapons of mass destruction. Saddam states he has nothing to hide, resulting in a stand-off between him and the U.N.'s chief weapons inspector, Rolf Ekeus. Saddam is more preoccupied with tracing his roots than with the U.N. stand-off, and ignores his other son, Qusay, when he tries to warn his father about Uday's erratic behaviour. Instead, Saddam presents a family tree purportedly proving a familial relation to the prophet Muhammad. Qusay is clearly worried about his father's state of mind, but quietly leaves him to his devices. The rivalry between General Hussein Kamel and Uday spirals out of control, as the heir apparent pelts the general with food at a dinner with Saddam's closest allies. The frustrated Hussein Kamel states his disillusionment with Saddam's regime, which allows the spoiled Uday to run wild with impunity. His patience finally ends when Uday hijacks a shipment of medical supplies intended for Hussein Kamel's brother, Saddam Kamel. The brothers discuss Hussein Kamel's plan to cooperate with Ekeus and the CIA, hoping that he will be installed as Iraq's new president after Saddam is overthrown. During a holiday celebrating Iraq's "victory" over Iran, the Kamel brothers cross the border to Jordan with their wives, Raghad and Rana Hussein. The women, Saddam's daughters, warn their husbands of the potential consequences should Saddam discover their absences. Meanwhile, at a holiday party, Uday rapes a waitress. Qusay realises that his sisters are missing and notifies Saddam. In Jordan, King Hussein grants the self-exiled group asylum just as Saddam declares them traitors in Iraq. Hussein Kamel plans to oust Saddam with Western support, and to reveal state secrets once installed as president. His plans are undermined when Saddam decides to reveal the information himself. Kamel becomes increasingly isolated in Jordan, and begins to lose the support of the king and the CIA. Saddam has Sajida to talk their daughters into coming back to Iraq, promising her that they will be safe upon their return. He also offers a pardon to the Kamel brothers. Believing he will be forgiven, and disturbed by his increasing loss of social status, Hussein Kamel and the others return despite warnings from Raghad and Rana. Once they return to Baghdad, Hussein and Saddam Kamel are humiliated by Uday and Qusay, who force them to divorce their wives and strip them of their Iraqi uniforms and ranks. However, they allow them to return to their family home, while Raghad and Rana go to their mother's house. Saddam Hussein then tells General Ali Hassan al-Majid that the honor of the al-Majid clan will be tainted as long as the pair go unpunished. Ali subsequently surrounds the brothers' house with troops, offering the brothers weapons so that they can die fighting. In a pitched battle, Hussein and Saddam Kamel are killed. Part IV 2003: Saddam, along with Uday, Qusay and Aziz, watch television reports of the unfolding Second Gulf War. Qusay seizes Saddam's money from the Central Bank of Iraq on his father's orders. Meanwhile, Saddam orders his troops, particularly those from the Special Republican Guard, to fiercely resist the U.S.-led coalition forces. During a meeting with his sons in a Baghdad restaurant, Saddam advises Qusay to take care of Uday, who is commanding the Fedayeen Saddam paramilitary force. On 9 April, Saddam is forced from power as U.S. forces take over Baghdad. As U.S. troops begin manhunts for all the high-ranking regime members, Saddam flees to rural Tikrit and goes underground with his loyal confidants. He phones Samira from a call box and tells her to leave for Lebanon. Saddam hides out in a rustic building with his remaining bodyguards. He befriends Ahmed, a lively local boy who initially does not know his identity. Saddam broadcasts messages from his hideout insisting that the Iraqi people continue to resist the U.S. occupation. Meanwhile, Sajida and her family anxiously watch news coverage of the war. Uday, Qusay and Qusay's son Mustapha take refuge at a house in Mosul. Uday wishes to flee, but Qusay contemptuously refuses. Saddam is informed that there is a monetary reward for his family's betrayal, but he insists that they will not be caught. However, the owner of Uday and Qusay's safehouse betrays them to the Americans, and a large number of 101st Airborne Division troops surround the building with tanks and APCs. After refusing to give themselves up, and exchanging fire with the troops, the Americans fire a rocket at their position and all three are killed. Sajida is distressed to learns of her sons' deaths from TV news. After being informed of the deaths, Saddam secretly visits the graves of his sons and grandson, laying Iraqi flags on them. He continues trying to rally the Iraqi people against U.S. forces, saying that his fallen sons are heroes of jihad. Saddam's bodyguards build a tunnel where the former dictator can hide, but one of them is captured by U.S. troops when he visits his girlfriend. Saddam decides to move elsewhere, but Ahmed warns him of U.S. patrols. He offers to hide Saddam, but the former president refuses to involve him. In Operation Red Dawn, Saddam is captured and taken into custody. 2006: Saddam is placed on trial for crimes against humanity and is sentenced to death by hanging for five different crimes against humanity, including the Dujail Massacre. The Independent newspaper described the drama as "The Sopranos with Scud missiles", adding that it was good entertainment but that it seemed to gloss over early US and British support for Saddam's regime.[1] Nancy Banks Smith of The Guardian also compared it to The Sopranos ("without the jokes"), and judged it to be "an extraordinarily ambitious attempt and it succeeds very well".[2] Tim Teeman in The Times described it as "convincing and chilling... It was soap (the feeling of Dallas was heightened by the late-1970s/early-1980s tacky glam: check out Saddam's glass lift), it was reality, it was cheeky and it was terrifying." Serena Davis of The Daily Telegraph objected to some "clunking" expository dialogue explaining political events, but was impressed that "Naor's towering version of the dictator envisioned him as both adept family schemer and political giant."[2] United Kingdom • Part I (BBC Two 2008-07-30): 2.7 million viewers (59% audience share).[3] • Part II (BBC Two 2008-08-06): 2.3 million viewers (11% audience share).[4] • Part III (BBC Two 2008-08-13): 1.8 million viewers (8% audience share).[5] • Part IV (BBC Two 2008-08-20): 1.5 million viewers (6% audience share).[6] United States HBO miniseries House of Saddam attracted approximately 1.1 Million viewers on its debut. House of Saddam screened in 2009 on Showcase through Foxtel, Optus TV and Austar. At the 61st Primetime Emmy Awards, House of Saddam received 4 nominations: Outstanding Casting for a Miniseries, Movie or Special, Outstanding Costumes for a Miniseries, Movie or Special, Outstanding Hairstyling for a Miniseries or Movie and Outstanding Supporting Actress in a Miniseries or Movie (Shohreh Aghdashloo), winning the latter. 1. ^ Thomas Sutcliffe, The Independent, Thursday, 31 July 2008  2. ^ a b First Night: House of Saddam, July 31, 2008 3. ^ Holmwood, Leigh (2008-07-31). "House of Saddam seen by 2.7m". The Guardian. Retrieved 2008-08-24. 4. ^ Holmwood, Leigh (2008-08-07). "House of Saddam draws 2.3m viewers". The Guardian. Retrieved 2008-08-24. 5. ^ Holmwood, Leigh (2008-08-14). "Gymnasts leap to top of Olympics ratings". The Guardian. Retrieved 2008-08-24. 6. ^ Holmwood, Leigh (2008-08-22). "Boris Johnson family history show watched by 7 million". The Guardian. Retrieved 2008-08-24. External links This page was last edited on 9 March 2019, at 01:21
dclm_baseline
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Q: Capistrano 3. Wrong path in the shared_path variable I'am trying to create the Unicorn restart task with Capistrano 3: Firstly, I set *unicorn_pid* variable: set :unicorn_pid, "#{shared_path}/tmp/pids/unicorn.pid" Then I pass it to the restart task: desc 'Restart application' task :restart do on roles(:app), in: :sequence, wait: 5 do execute :kill, "-USR2 `cat #{fetch(:unicorn_pid)}`" if test "[ -f #{fetch(:unicorn_pid)} ]" within release_path do execute :bundle, "exec unicorn -D -c config/unicorn.rb -E #{fetch(:stage)}" end end end but when i run cap production deploy:restart i see: DEBUG [f4159760] Running /usr/bin/env [ -f /var/www/shared/tmp/pids/unicorn.pid ] on dev.project.net DEBUG [f4159760] Command: [ -f /var/www/shared/tmp/pids/unicorn.pid ] So, instead /home/user/project/shared/ path, #{shared_path} transform to /var/www/shared/ But when I specify this path directly in the task, without unicorn_pid variable I see in the output: INFO [567856e3] Running /usr/bin/env kill -USR2 `cat /home/user/project/shared/tmp/pids/unicorn.pid` on dev.educapsule.net DEBUG [567856e3] Command: /usr/bin/env kill -USR2 `cat /home/user/project/shared/tmp/pids/unicorn.pid` Why the path is changed to /var/www/shared/ when I pass it in "custom" variable? Thanks. A: I think the problem is that when you call this: set :unicorn_pid, "#{shared_path}/tmp/pids/unicorn.pid" It's being evaluated the moment that line is processed, taking the as-then-current value of shared_path which is /var/www/shared. Try changing that line to this which should delay it's execution until you actually reference unicorn_pid. set :unicorn_pid, -> {"#{shared_path}/tmp/pids/unicorn.pid"}
mini_pile
{'original_id': 'ca4b1f2ae49c1200335d9a3d86ad630f2e03ca9b0326b786db877f2bddde2fc5'}
City Bell Pure Fix Cycles Regular price Sale price Quantity must be 1 or more "Knock Knock." "Who's there?"" "Isabelle, who?"" "Isabelle necessary on a bicycle?"" The answer is yes! Whether you want to give other riders a friendly chime to say "hi", need to remind that car at the red light that you're still there, or if you just want to practice percussion on the go, the CityBell's got all the ding you could want in a compact brass housing. Perfect for cruising city streets or riding your favorite path or trail, a pleasant peal is always at your fingertips to grab you the attention you deserve.
dclm_baseline
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Legal Briefs: Court TV Every Friday on GovExec.com, Legal Briefs reviews cases that involve, or provide valuable lessons to, federal managers. We report on the decisions of a wide range of review panels, including the Merit Systems Protection Board, the Federal Labor Relations Authority and federal courts. When Navy employee Ray Perez found out he was going to be laid off, he resigned. Then he appealed the reduction-in-force to the Merit Systems Protection Board, claiming the agency told him he could do so even though he had quit. Over Perez's objections, the admininstrative judge held a hearing on the case via videoconference. Witnesses testifying during the hearing denied giving Perez inaccurate information about his appeal rights, and the judge dismissed Perez's appeal for lack of jurisdiction. Perez then filed an appeal with MSPB. In his affidavit, he said the judge could only see the back of witnesses' heads and an occasional profile view throughout the hearing. With no videotape available to contradict Perez's account, the board agreed that the video hearing did not lend itself to witness credibility. "Apart from the witnesses' faces, there may have been other demeanor aspects of the witnesses, (e.g. sweating, hand gestures, [and] where their attention was directed on direct and cross examination) that were not captured on the video monitor but which the [judge] could assess in an in-person hearing," the decision stated. The Board denied the judge's decision and requested that an in-person hearing be held. After 27 years of federal service, Arnett Flowers retired in 1999 from the Federal Correctional Institute (FCI) in El Reno, Okla. Two years earlier, Flowers was transferred to El Reno from the FCI in Tallahassee, Fla., taking on the job as warden there-a senior executive position . Flowers left his job in Florida on June 10, 1997 and arrived at his new duty station in Oklahoma on June 13. His reassignment was effective June 9, but his senior executive status was not official until June 12. When SES employees retire, they are entitled to "last move home" benefits-including travel expenses and costs of transportation and temporary storage of household goods, provided they meet certain eligibility criteria. The Bureau of Prisons denied Flowers last move home benefits on the grounds that the transfer from Tallahassee to El Reno was from one non-SES position to another; the SES appointment was merely a change in status at a later date. Flowers filed his case with the Board of Contract Appeals, whereupon the bureau expanded its eligibility requirement to include those transferring into an SES career position and awaiting confirmation from the Office of Personnel Management. The Board agreed with the bureau's modification, but said it would have found in favor of Flowers regardless of the revision. "If having the employee serve in an SES career position is the purpose of the relocation, this condition is met, no matter whether, technically, the appointment occurs on any particular day. Mr. Flowers asserts, and the agency does not deny, that he moved to El Reno in large part because the warden's job there was a career SES position. This satisfies the eligibility requirement at issue," the decision said. Lesson: When it comes to moving reimbursements, don't pull a fast one on an executive's last one.
mini_pile
{'original_id': '5591044ee8275ba40c95bc3dd7077487d30e442689f8b8e863389fb1ef782597'}
Homosubtypic and heterosubtypic antibodies against highly pathogenic avian influenza H5N1 recombinant proteins in H5N1 survivors and non-H5N1 subjects. Six recombinant vaccinia viruses containing HA, NA, NP, M or NS gene insert derived from a highly pathogenic avian influenza H5N1 virus, and the recombinant vaccinia virus harboring plasmid backbone as the virus control were constructed. The recombinant proteins were characterized for their expression and subcellular locations in TK(-) cells. Antibodies to the five recombinant proteins were detected in all 13 sequential serum samples collected from four H5N1 survivors during four years of follow-up; and those directed to rVac-H5 HA and rVac-NA proteins were found in higher titers than those directed to the internal proteins as revealed by indirect immunofluorescence assay. Although all 28 non-H5N1 subjects had no neutralizing antibodies against H5N1 virus, they did have cross-reactive antibodies to those five recombinant proteins. A significant increase in cross-reactive antibody titer to rVac-H5 HA and rVac-NA was found in paired blood samples from patients infected with the 2009 pandemic virus.
mini_pile
{'original_id': '74fcb37600aeb849ddc15c65b0d0319196a5ebe11b285a6b757a4f1ca27ccd15'}
Medium format cameras are not necessarily heavy maybe the one you own is I would def recommend Gitzo legs I use a basalt one sturdy as hell on the downside it's heavy don't buy Gitzo heads that are not as good you can get an Arca Swiss z series that are ball heads of high quality and easy to use. Hope this helps.
dclm_baseline
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Q: Logistic regression for multiclass I got the model for the logistic regression for multiclass which is given by $$ P(Y=j|X^{(i)}) = \frac{\exp(\theta_j^TX^{(i)})}{1+ \sum_{m=1}^{k}\exp(\theta_m^T X^{(i)})} $$ where k is the number of classes theta is the parameter to be estimated j is the jth class Xi is the training data Well one thing I didn't get is how come the denominator part $$ 1+ \sum_{m=1}^{k}\exp(\theta_m^T X^{(i)}) $$ normalized the model. I mean it makes the probability stay between 0 and 1. I mean I am used to logistic regression being $$ P(Y=1|X^{(i)}) = 1/ (1 + \exp(-\theta^T X^{(i)})) $$ Actually, I am confused with the nomalization thing. In this case since it is a sigmoid function it never lets the value be less than 0 or greater than 1. But I am confused in the multi class case. Why is it so? This is my reference https://list.scms.waikato.ac.nz/pipermail/wekalist/2005-February/029738.html. I think it should have been to be normalizing $$ P(Y=j|X^{(i)}) = \frac{\exp(\theta_j^T X^{(i)})}{\sum_{m=1}^{k} \exp(\theta_m^T X^{(i)})} $$ A: Your formula is wrong (the upper limit of the sum). In logistic regression with $K$ classes ($K> 2$) you basically create $K-1$ binary logistic regression models where you choose one class as reference or pivot. Usually, the last class $K$ is selected as the reference. Thus, the probability of the reference class can be calculated by $$P(y_i = K | x_i) = 1 - \sum_{k=1}^{K-1} P(y_i = k | x_i) .$$ The general form of the probability is $$P(y_i = k | x_i) = \frac{\exp(\theta_i^T x_i)}{\sum_{i=1}^K \exp(\theta_i^T x_i)} .$$ As the $K$-th class is your reference $\theta_K = (0, \ldots, 0)^T$ and therefore $$\sum_{i=1}^K \exp(\theta_i^T x_i) = \exp(0) + \sum_{i=1}^{K-1} \exp(\theta_i^T x_i) = 1 + \sum_{i=1}^{K-1} \exp(\theta_i^T x_i) .$$ In the end you get the following formula for all $k < K$: $$ P(y_i = k | x_i) = \frac{\exp(\theta_i^T x_i)}{1 + \sum_{i=1}^{K-1} \exp(\theta_i^T x_i)} $$ A: I think you're being confused by a typo: Your $k$ should be $k-1$ in the first equation. The 1's you see in the logistic case are actually $\exp(0)$s, e.g., when there is a $k$th $\theta=0$. Assume that $\theta_1 X=b$. Now notice that you can get from the last formulation to the logistic regression version like $$ \frac{\exp(b)}{\exp(0)+\exp(b)} = \frac{\exp(0)}{\exp(0)+\exp(-b)} = \frac{1}{1+\exp(-b)} $$ For multiple classes, just replace the denominator in the first two quantities by a sum over exponentiated linear predictors.
mini_pile
{'original_id': '18fa177112e6677ab318f9de58ab675687f8b33bd7765076a5942cc1ad44a6b1'}
1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates generally to apparatus and methods for separating cellular components from biological fluids and, more particularly, to the design and use of a centrifugal rotor which is capable of continuously separating plasma from an applied volume of whole blood as the rotor is spun. Analytical testing of biological fluids frequently requires that cellular components be separated from the fluid in order to provide a red blood cell-free fluid fraction for analysis. For example, many blood tests require removal of blood cells so that analysis can be performed on the remaining blood plasma. A common method for achieving such cellular removal employs a analytical rotor where the relatively dense cellular components are centrifugally separated from the less dense blood plasma. Frequently, the resulting blood plasma undergoes a detection reaction, e.g., an immunological or enzymatic reaction, and subsequent optical analysis within the analytical rotor. Heretofore, most analytical rotors for separating cellular components from biological fluids have been designed for batch-type separation. In batch separation, a discrete volume of the biological fluid is applied to the rotor, and the rotor then spun to separate the entire applied fluid volume into a cellular fraction and a cell-free fluid fraction prior to performing any reaction or optical analysis. Usually, the cell-free fluid fraction will first be collected within a collection compartment or chamber and only after the entire volume is collected, the fraction will be transferred to a separate region within the rotor in order to perform a reaction or other analytic procedure. The need to completely separate cellular components from the biological fluid prior to analysis, however, is disadvantageous in several respects. First, the initial separation step can be time-consuming and significantly delay the initiation of subsequent steps in the analysis, e.g., reaction with immunological reagent(s) and/or optical examination. Second, the need to transfer cell-free fluid within the rotor after the initial separation is complete usually requires additional step(s) in the analytical protocol. Such additional step(s) complicate the protocol and further increase the time required to perform the analysis. In automated testing systems, even small time delays and minor complications of the analytical protocol can greatly decrease the efficiency of the test being performed. For these reasons, it would be desirable to provide improved analytical rotors and methods for separating cellular components from biological fluids, where the separation can be achieved continuously and simultaneously with transfer of cell-free fluid to a separate region within the rotor wherein the fluid can be subjected to an analytical reaction or optical examination, or both. In particular, it would be desirable to be able to initiate transfer of the cell-free fluid into a collection chamber or chambers where analytical reactions and/or analyses can begin even while the rotor continues to spin and before the entire biological fluid volume has been separated. It would further be desirable to be able to combine and mix diluents with the biological fluid as a part of the separation protocol. 2. Description of the Background Art U.S. Pat. No. 4,708,712, describes a rotor intended for continuous plasma separation for use in therapeutic procedures, such as plasmapheresis. The rotor includes an eccentrically disposed channel which receives blood through an inlet port. The channel is positioned so that it has a decreasing radius relative to the axis of rotation in the clockwise direction from the inlet port and an increasing radius in the counterclockwise direction. Whole blood entering the channel from the inlet will separate into a lighter fraction (including plasma and platelets) which flows in the clockwise direction in a heavier fraction (including plasma and blood cells) which flows in the counterclockwise direction. The blood cells are collected in a dam region which is located in a maximum radial distance from the axis. U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,419,089 and 4,356,958, disclose the concept of using eccentric or spiral channels for separating blood cells from plasma by centrifugation. U.S. Pat. No. 3,899,296, discloses a separation chamber within an analytical rotor, where plasma is removed by aspiration rather than by continued centrifugation. U.S. Pat. No. 4,894,204, discloses the use of a siphon structure to hold liquid in a rotor receptacle. See also U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,901,658; 4,279,862; 4,284,602; 4,314,968; 4,350,283; 4,381,072; 4,463,097; 4,680,025; 4,776,964; 4,847,205; and 4,876,203, which relate to the construction and use of various devices for separating cells from blood and other biological fluids.
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ElderHelpers.org Blog https://elderhelpers.org/blog ElderHelpers.org Blog Mon, 18 Mar 2019 20:02:04 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2 Elder Law Information: Disability Planning https://elderhelpers.org/blog/elder-law-information-disability-planning/ https://elderhelpers.org/blog/elder-law-information-disability-planning/#comments Mon, 18 Mar 2019 13:05:53 +0000 elderhelpers http://elderhelpers.org/blog/?p=58 This is the first post on disability planning, is first in a series on free elder law advice designed to provide you with legal counsel for the elderly. Disability planning can be a complex process and add anxiety to your life. Our organization strives to reduce the worry and enhance the lives of elders and relatives. We will be presenting simple information on what social security is, if the elder is eligible and how he or she can obtain it. Social security exists in the United States, serving as a ‘safety net’ for the elderly, disabled and blind. The amount of money that one can receive typically increases each year and depends on if the person is single or married. As of January 2012, an individual would receive $698 in social security per month and a couple would receive $1,048 per month. Some states supplement the social security amount with additional payments; click this linkto see if this applies to that state that the elder resides in.Social security does not depend on how long or if a person has worked, so long as they meet the criteria: 1. Be 65 or older, blind or disabled. 2. Be a long term resident of the United States or a United States citizen. 3. Have a monthly income below the limit determined by the elder’s state of residence. 4. Have less than $2,000 in assets of currency, stocks and bonds. If you meet the qualifications for social security assistance and would like to apply, you may do so by visiting your local social security administration office. Click this link to locate a branch near your zip cod https://elderhelpers.org/blog/elder-law-information-disability-planning/feed/ 0 Volunteering for the Elderly: The Win-Win Relationship https://elderhelpers.org/blog/volunteering-for-the-elderly-the-win-win-relationship/ https://elderhelpers.org/blog/volunteering-for-the-elderly-the-win-win-relationship/#comments Tue, 05 Mar 2019 12:41:18 +0000 elderhelpers http://elderhelpers.org/blog/?p=34 Last week, I met someone in a coffee shop that had worked for fifteen years at a retirement home for the elderly. We had an enjoyable conversation about how several people would come in and request volunteer work or be searching for volunteer services in his area. I could relate to his experience, being affiliated with a non-profit is very rewarding because it enables me to share happiness with others. Volunteers for the elderly come from all over the planet, each with a different motive or reason behind their desire to care for the elderly. Each is just as important as the next, no matter what sector the volunteer work is in.The man explained to me how one of the most rewarding parts of his job was not just caring for the elderly, but also encouraging others to live more rewarding lives by helping them volunteer for seniors. Caregiving services for the elderly are in high demand these days, but we believe that the ones supported by volunteers will continue to be the most cherished and rewarding available.When Elder Helpers connects the elderly with our volunteers, the seniors may often will ask if it is necessary to pay them or give them tips. People who have seen both the volunteer side and the elder side of care know that our volunteers are sometimes being helped just as much as the elderly. They receive an emotionally rewarding experience, that cannot be bought or sold on any market. People in the elder care sector understand that volunteering for the elderly has its rewards and that community service in general is making the world a better place to live and work. By donating your time to help the elderly or volunteering a few hours a week you are contributing to bring our society into a better tomorrow. It may seem like just one relationship, but it is setting an example for others in your community. Volunteering for the elderly is making progress to change the way that elder care services are operated forever. You are not just helping an elder to live happier and healthier, you are also supporting an organization that is revolutionizing the way elders receive care. Whether you are doing volunteer work at a retirement community, doing general community service or supporting Elder Helpers you are working with us to make the world a better place. As an elder, your affiliation with our program allows us to find help for seniors in your community. If you are a volunteer, your contribution is the heart of our program and providing essential services for seniors. What starts as a simple conversation in a coffee shop, develops into ideas that help change the world. With technology, communities and volunteers we can work together to achieve much more than we can alone. Remember that it all begins with an idea, made into a reality by working together. Volunteering for the elderly has helped us to achieve this for volunteers, the elderly and the world. https://elderhelpers.org/blog/volunteering-for-the-elderly-the-win-win-relationship/feed/ 0 Visitation Rights for Grandparents https://elderhelpers.org/blog/visitation-rights-for-grandparents/ https://elderhelpers.org/blog/visitation-rights-for-grandparents/#comments Tue, 19 Feb 2019 15:00:56 +0000 elderhelpers http://elderhelpers.org/blog/?p=79 Many believe that grandparent should have legal right under most circumstances to visit their grandchildren. Unfortunately, some states are denying visitation rights and only make exceptions on occasions such as the death, divorce or permanent separation of the grandparent’s child. On the opposite side, some states allow anyone in the child’s ‘best interest’ to have the capabilities of obtaining legal visitation rights. The difference that determines visitation rights is very simple, but their variation from state to state and the procedure of obtaining them can be often complex. Some states that support more restricted visitation rights support the parent’s decision to choose what is in the best interest of the child, whereas others with more widely accessible visitation rights enable what is just in the best interest of the child. The difference is, the state has the ability to grant people visitation rights that are different than what the parent thinks is best. For a complete list of the visitation rights by state, click here to download the PDF from the National Bar Association. Remember that this information can change and just because a state ‘generally’ allows grandparents visitation rights, does not mean that they can and do every time. There are situations in which grandparents that would normally be granted visitation rights are denied. If you think that this may apply to you, we advise you to seek with an elder law professional in your community. https://elderhelpers.org/blog/visitation-rights-for-grandparents/feed/ 0 Exercises for seniors: Moving into a Better Tomorrow https://elderhelpers.org/blog/exercises-for-seniors-moving-into-a-better-tomorrow/ https://elderhelpers.org/blog/exercises-for-seniors-moving-into-a-better-tomorrow/#comments Wed, 30 Jan 2019 11:32:27 +0000 elderhelpers http://elderhelpers.org/blog/?p=66 Many people know that exercising can improve the health of an elder, which may be important to reducing the stress from their changing physical condition or increased dependence. Simple movement can also help home bound seniors to get the necessary exercise that they need, without having to leave the home. As a safety precaution, we always recommend that the elders ask their doctor if any exercise is right for them before they begin, but here are some fundamental ways to help the elderly to stay fit and active. Stretching: Simple yoga can be done to help with stretching, but as daily activities decrease, yoga could become more important and may be the only physical activity that is reasonable for some elders. For stretching exercises, visit this link. Strength: As we get older and decrease our activity, our muscles may tend to also decrease in mass and we may become weaker. Muscle mass is important to achieving stability, so that we can prevent falls from occurring and be capable of more exercises or public activities. You can view some strength training exercises in a video, by visiting this link. Balance: This brings it all together and may be among the most important to helping the elder achieve more mobility and keeping them safer at home. A simple fall can result in serious injury that might have been caused because of reduced balance. Some elderly diseases such as osteoporosis, reduces the elders balance and increases the necessity of balance exercises. For videos on improving the elderly’s balance, visit this link. https://elderhelpers.org/blog/exercises-for-seniors-moving-into-a-better-tomorrow/feed/ 0 Helping Elderly Parents to Listen to Their Doctor https://elderhelpers.org/blog/helping-elderly-parents-to-listen-to-their-doctor/ https://elderhelpers.org/blog/helping-elderly-parents-to-listen-to-their-doctor/#comments Thu, 29 Nov 2018 02:35:40 +0000 elderhelpers http://elderhelpers.org/blog/?p=63 Time and again, you might be the person that has heard their doctor either say, “Congratulations, you are a healthy human being” or you may be the less fortunate to hear something like, “the tests show that your health has been declining, did you start eating unhealthy foods again?” After twelve years of education, we can expect that our doctors are correct and should listen to them. However, we cannot always get our elderly parents to admire their professionalism and experience, to the point of doing what they recommend. For whatever reason, some elders just do not want to listen to their doctors. If your elderly relative appears to be neglecting the doctor’s recommendations, it is important to first understand the reason for it. A good question to ask may be either, “I noticed that you are not doing what the doctor recommended, why is that?” or “is there a reason why you are not [insert doctors recommendations here]?” Once you have discovered the reason why they are not following the recommendations, use this to explain to them why listening to the doctor can benefit them. Or, that listening to their doctor is important to you and that it hurts you to see them in pain, when they can help to reduce it by listening to a medical professional. Also consider telling them that other elders are listening to their doctors, while this sounds like your child’s typical excuse to leverage more TV time, it is also called the bandwagon technique and can be effective in some situations. Remember, every elder and every situation is unique. However, people under normal circumstances should always listen to and carefully follow their doctor’s instructions to live a healthy and productive lifestyle, especially the elderly. https://elderhelpers.org/blog/helping-elderly-parents-to-listen-to-their-doctor/feed/ 0 Early Stages of Alzheimer’s: Helping Elderly Parents through Understanding https://elderhelpers.org/blog/early-stages-of-alzheimers-helping-elderly-parents-through-understanding/ https://elderhelpers.org/blog/early-stages-of-alzheimers-helping-elderly-parents-through-understanding/#comments Tue, 20 Nov 2018 11:02:48 +0000 elderhelpers http://elderhelpers.org/blog/?p=55 As you or your elderly relative becomes older, they may experience some indications that could be early stages of Alzheimer’s disease. The sooner that you notice these signs,the better help that you can provide help for your aging parents. Alzheimer’s has several levels of severity,however we will be focusing on the actions indicating the disease in general. Veterans Benefits: A Simplified Overview https://elderhelpers.org/blog/veterans-benefits-a-simplified-overview/ https://elderhelpers.org/blog/veterans-benefits-a-simplified-overview/#comments Thu, 08 Nov 2018 12:03:47 +0000 elderhelpers http://elderhelpers.org/blog/?p=153 Obtaining veterans assistance can be a challenging task, let alone sifting through the different websites and complicated government lingo to understand what benefits are available to veterans. This post is dedicated to helping people understand and obtain veterans benefits easier. Life Insurance Home Loan & Home Improvements Vocational Rehabilitation & Employment Disability Compensation Disability Pension More Information https://elderhelpers.org/blog/veterans-benefits-a-simplified-overview/feed/ 0 Communicating Effectively with Seniors https://elderhelpers.org/blog/communicating-effectively-with-seniors/ https://elderhelpers.org/blog/communicating-effectively-with-seniors/#comments Wed, 24 Oct 2018 14:31:52 +0000 elderhelpers http://elderhelpers.org/blog/?p=139 Many elderly or disabled people struggle with hearing, reading, writing and general communication skills. We cannot verbally or non-verbally communicate with them the same way we do with our peers. It is important to understand that as people grow older, they often become more difficult to understand and changes in their environment may influence their communication. Do not communicate quickly with the elderly or disabled when communicating, maintain eye contact, and speak clearly and directly to them. We may sometimes get in the habit of multitasking while speaking with our peers, resulting in a weaker message or conveying the message that we are not interested in what they have to say. Our peers understand and are accustomed to this communication method, however, elders not so much. They don’t live in as fast a pace world as the younger generations. Elders may demand extra attention in conversations to not convey that you respect what they have to say, but also to ensure that they receive your message clearly. Another important factor is to communicate as simply as possible using small words, short sentences and visual aids. Many elderly or disabled people have short-term memory loss, which means that they may struggle to remember recent events or conversations that you may have had with them. If an elder makes a statement that you do not agree with, do not argue with them or attempt to instill your logic. While you may be able to have casual arguments with your younger friends and family, elderly adults can also be very close to their beliefs and you should not get them overly exited. It may be fine to have relaxed discussions about events, but disputing personal beliefs and values is rarely accepted in any social context. To help elders recall what you are communicating to them, you should re-state key ideas of the topic frequently. Some believe that repeating key points three times helps people to remember the points later on. Many authors use this same technique by stating the key points in the introduction and conclusion. Professional authors are presenting the important features of the overall message that they want their readers to recall. This may not always be important when communicating with the elderly and some may find it offensive. It is a helpful technique if you notice that the elder has difficulty remembering the key points of your conversations.Elder_Communication Listening to elders can also play an essential role in the communication process; communication is a give-and-take relationship. Sometimes, we may be focusing on our own thoughts and responses and do not pay enough attention to the other person’s message. By taking the time to listen and asking the elder questions, you may find that all other aspects of communication improve as well. The elderly are not the only ones who want to be listened to and heard, although it is especially important that they are. In today’s conversations with our peers, some have come to expect that the person is not fully engaged in our conversation. Making sure that you receive the sender’s message is essential to have an appropriate response, sometimes we may be thinking about our response while the other person is still talking. By listening intently, we can often understand communication on a greater level, respect the sender and learn more about them. Key Points 1. Be patient when communicating. 2. Keep messages short, simple and to the point. 5. Summarize and repeat key points if necessary. 6. Never dispute beliefs or argue with the elderly. https://elderhelpers.org/blog/communicating-effectively-with-seniors/feed/ 0 Senior Nutrition: Recommended Calorie Intake https://elderhelpers.org/blog/senior-nutrition-recommended-calorie-intake/ https://elderhelpers.org/blog/senior-nutrition-recommended-calorie-intake/#comments Tue, 15 May 2018 10:40:43 +0000 elderhelpers http://elderhelpers.org/blog/?p=87 ]]> https://elderhelpers.org/blog/senior-nutrition-recommended-calorie-intake/feed/ 0 Help Seniors to Prevent Falls https://elderhelpers.org/blog/help-seniors-to-prevent-falls/ https://elderhelpers.org/blog/help-seniors-to-prevent-falls/#comments Mon, 30 Apr 2018 10:50:18 +0000 elderhelpers http://elderhelpers.org/blog/?p=116 As the elderly age, they become increasingly susceptible to falling and the dangers can be much worse. With aging diseases like osteoporosis decreasing stability and others with symptoms of nausea, fatigue and a decreasing eye sight, we must be alert for potential hazards. A fall or injury that may be considered lightly to a younger adult, can be very harmful to an elder. So what should you do to keep the elderly safe a protected? The good news is that many falls happen in the senior’s home and could have been prevented if the hazard was removed or precautions were taken. By leaning from previous faults, we can help to create a safe home environment to keep seniors healthy, happy and independent. To help keep the senior safe, go through each one of these observations in every area of the house and ask yourself the questions. Your response could mean that there are potential hazards in the home that can be resolved, it may only take 5 minutes to be the difference between a safe home and an medical visit. Once the steps have been taken to create safe home environment, you can also help seniors to prevent falls and stay independent by taking extra steps according to disabilities or aging diseases. Many of these steps can be done both outside the home and inside the home and could have a tremendous benefit on their health and overall wellbeing. If a senior has osteoporosis, it may help to work on balance exercises in the home. These can be learned at the local senior center and more information can be found in the Elder Helpers’ guide to caring for seniors, the Caregivers Guide to Compassion. They can also use a cane or walking assistant in the home, many are available online or at your local retail stores. For vision problems, speak with the senior’s eye doctor about solutions that can be taken outside the home. When the elder is at home, you can increase the lighting during the day, leave lights on at night and clear unnecessary objects from the walking paths. The specific assistance depends on the level of severity for a loss of eyesight, if it is much worse, the elder should consider also staying away from driving activities and obtaining a dog trained to help her. There are many steps that you can take as a caregiver to help seniors to stay healthy by prevention. However, if a fall does occur and they cannot get back up without assistance, they should be able to easily call for help. If a senior owns a cellular phone, make sure that they have it on them at all times in the case of an emergency. It is important they if they need help, they have access to it and if you are not available they can call another person as a backup. https://elderhelpers.org/blog/help-seniors-to-prevent-falls/feed/ 0
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Q: Detect musical note with android device Is it possible to get the current musical note from a whistle with the microphone of an android device? I'm looking for a library android compatible witch can do that kind of stuff. A: Check out this open source guitar tuner. You should find what you need in TunerEngine.java.
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SNELLVILLE, Ga. (AP) -- Police in the Atlanta area are blaming a motorist for causing 15 crashes that left one person dead and another critically injured. Authorities say the pickup truck driver left a trail of wreckage on streets in two counties in northern Atlanta's suburbs before being apprehended after slamming into a restaurant in Snellville Wednesday night. Gwinnett County police Cpl. Ed Ritter tells The Atlanta Journal-Constitution the man is suspected of causing five wrecks in DeKalb County and 10 more in Gwinnett County before the fatal accident near Snellville. In that crash, the female passenger of a car died at the scene and its driver was hospitalized in critical condition. The suspect's name wasn't immediately released.
dclm_baseline
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Make your own free website on Demon Possession Defined and Explained My Writing or Artwork Related Links Contact Me Phases of Demonic Possession Causes and Effects of Demon Possession The Solution to Demon Possession Phases of Demonic Possession Enter subhead content here Phases of Demonic Possession Demons do not walk to up to a person and say, "Hey! Do you want to be fully and completely demon possessed?" No, they find a weakness or a door through traditional family behavior (iniquities) or through the reckless behavior of the individual (personal sin). The person's active free will must be breached. They usually seduce a person with something simple and almost innocent unless it is generational sin. It is kind of like the camel with his nose in the tent. It starts out with just a nose. Then, the next thing you know, the whole camel is in the middle of the tent. All the camel needs is a gate. Demons like to solicit your active free-willing participation. It is more of a kill for them. It is sport to them! Let's say that you profess to be a 'born again' Christian. You might even be in the ministry as a pastor or an assistant pastor. You are really committed to serving the Lord and your church. The love of God is all you think about. You attend church every meeting. You read the Bible and pray daily and you even spend special time with the Lord. Let's say, just for argument's sake, that you are counseling women for the church. Then all of a sudden there is this certain girl you are counseling, a new believer, that seems to understand you more than your wife. That's it! Right there! The Camel in the tent! You were supposed to be counseling her but she ended up comforting you. What happened? How could this be? Christians can't be demon possessed? How did you end up in an affair with her? That was the farthest thing from your mind. What ever possessed you to cheat on your wife--To commit mental, spiritual, or physical adultery? How did that happen? Was it demon possession? How could that be? Impossible! And yet, there you are a victim of a demonic activity. You have been demonized--An activity that you were told could never happen. Demonic possession, demonic oppression and schizophrenia: Acts 10:38 mentions oppression by Satan which some believe is a different phenomenon than possession. 20 A person who is oppressed by a demon is having his behavior influenced in one area of his life - e.g. not being able to resist alcohol. They are harassed but are not actually possessed by indwelling demons. 19 Oppression often leads to possession. The anonymous Website "Eternal Destinies" teaches that Satan rules the airwaves, media, and Hollywood. He "has an overwhelming influence over world politics and various religions." The Webmaster differentiates between the symptoms of demonic oppression and possession: Symptoms of oppression: abnormal and irrational fear, anxiety & loneliness; lack of goals; depression; lack of logical reasoning ability, seeking power and control; etc. Symptoms of possession: uncontrolled swearing, extreme physical strength; unexpectedly high IQ; intense negative reaction when Jesus' name is spoken; multiple personalities; extreme fear in the presence of Christians; violent behavior; life-threatening behavior; exhibiting paranormal abilities, severe depression; etc. Eternal Destinies believes that oppression and possession have different causes: Causes of oppression: activities, such as: befriending, dating, or having sex with a possessed or oppressed individual; playing with a Ouija Board, reading science fiction, viewing soap operas, looking at pornography, etc. religious involvements, such as: false religions, cults, chanting, non-Christian meditation, etc. personality factors, such as: poor self-image, jealousy, bad temper, rebellion, etc. Causes of possession: activities, such as: extreme cases of sexual immorality; rebelliousness; blasphemy; taking tests for ESP or other paranormal abilities; involvement in astrology; going to fortune tellers; either owning or using "occultic" charms, talismans, written material, music, etc. Pastor Steven Waterhouse has written a book from an Evangelical Christian perspective. It is "Strength for his People: a Ministry for families of the Mentally Ill." It helps families differentiate between demon possession and schizophrenia. A copy is available from : Dr. Steven Waterhouse, Westcliff Bible Church, Box 1521 Amarillo, TX 79105. (806) 359-6362 or (806) 359-6882. Donations are appreciated. Some guidelines for differentiating between possession and schizophrenia are: Factor Possession indicated Schizophrenia indicated Reaction towards Christianity Aversion Devout acceptance Conversations with others Rational Nonsense; may jump between topics Knowledge Beyond that obtained by normal learning Obtained by normal learning Effects on other people Paranormal effects: poltergeist, levitation, mental telepathy, etc. None Admit to being possessed? No voluntary admission Admission possible Cured or alleviated by: Prayer Therapy, medication Enter supporting content here
dclm_baseline
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Prashar Lake Trek - 2 Days Prashar Lake is a mysterious blue-water lake hidden in Mandi district of Himachal Pradesh. Prashar Lake is surrounded by the Dhauladhar Ranges and valleys of Kullu. Prashar Lake is famous for a small floating island on the Lake. The trek offers magnificent view of the Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal mountain ranges. Day 1 Mandi - Baggi - Prashar Lake 1. Upon arrival at Mandi ISBT, get greeted by our representative who will transfer you to the pre-booked hotel for refreshments. 2. After refreshments at hotel, a cab will be there to pick you up from hotel to transfer you to Baggi Village (45 Km). This is 2 hr 30 min journey and there is a lot to enjoy the prestine view of Himalayas. 3. Trails begins for Baggi Village (7 Km). You will be walking through the forest, crossing mountains and rocky paths. 4. Water Bottle and snacks will be given to you to keep you energetic all through the trail. 5. The whole trekk takes almost 4 hours to complete. You can enjoy the panoramic view of Himalayan Mountain ranges. 6. The pristine view of Prashar Lake and Prashar Temple will make all your handwork worth it. 7. After refreshment (Snacks+Tea/Coffee), enjoy the view and fun activities. 8. Camps will be assigned to you (Double / Triple Sharing) 9. Enjoy you Dinner and fun activities if weather permits (Bonfire/Music). Day 2 Prashar Lake - Baggi - Mandi 1. Start the day with Rishi Prashar’s blessings and breakfast. 2. Trekk back to Baggi Village enjoying the scenic beauty along the way. 3. Reach Baggi Village and transfer back to Mandi. 4. Enjoy the traditional food ( Lunch) and end the journey on a thankful note. 5. Goodbye with lots of happy memories. Prashar Lake Trek includes- • 1. Hotel for refreshment on arrival. • 2. Pickup and Drop form Mandi to Baggi and back. • 3. Sightseeing cover on the way to Baggi • 4. Water bottle and traditional Snacks on the Trek • 5. Camping on double and triple sharing basis for 1 night • 6. Meal Plan - Snacks + Tea/Coffee + Dinner + Breakfast for each person • 7. Services of certified trek leaders, local guides and camping permits. • 8. Bonfire and activities, if time and weather permits • 9. One Lunch (Traditional Food at departure) for each person • 10. Transfers, Taxis, Parking, Fuel and Driver expenses. Prashar Lake Trek excludes- • 1. Breakfast on the day of arrival • 2. Any personal expenses - laundry, shopping, telephone bills etc.. • 3. Volvo fair (Delhi to Mandi and back) • 4. Any medical services • 5. Any hiking equipment • 6 Any meals apart from mentioned in includes section. Cost per Person: ₹ 2499/- onwards (This is per person price on twin sharing basis) You can send your enquiry via the form below. Prashar Lake Trek Trip Facts • 2,713 m • Start @ ₹ 1499/-
dclm_baseline
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Haiku Alpha 3 has been in development for more than 14 months. In that time more than 800 bugs have been identified and fixed, major sections have been updated, applications have been added and updated, and great progress has been made in supporting additional hardware. Here is a summary of updates, more details can be found here. Also inside, interviews with some core Haiku developers. I haven't followed Haiku over the past couple years due to lack of mindspace, but when the project started (openbeos.org!), Haiku was using the work of a former BeOS engineer: a fairly straightfoward fork of the NewOS kernel -- http://newos.org/features.php How much that of that code/architecture has been retained someone else probably is better equipped to answer.
mini_pile
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[The Mycoplasma genome]. A review is presented of the available data on the nature of chromosomal and extrachromosomal DNA of Mollicutes (mycoplasmas)--the smallest and simplest procaryotic organisms.
mini_pile
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About Us Faq Prices About Us Faq Personal Statement Plagiarism Free Guarantee Prices Research Proposal Scholarship Essay Buy Essays Online Online Essay Writing Service Art Essay Writing Tips Cause and Effect Essay Help Critical Thinking Essay Topics Essays on Consumerism Morality Essay Astronomy Homework Buy Comparative Essay Online Depression Essays Essay on Space Math Help Services Pride and Prejudice Essays Essays on Meditation How to Write a Reaction Paper Immigration Essay Animal Farm Essay Narrative Essay Writing Service Evaluation Essay Statistics Research Paper Immigration Essay Writing Guide for Students Depending on what course you are taking or your college major, you may be given a course assignment that involves writing an essay on immigration. If you have never written an essay on that topic, you would naturally struggle to write your essay quickly. The situation could be more unfortunate if you have limited knowledge about the topic or subject area. In other situations, you may have a clear idea of what you want to write about but be pressed for time to write the essay. That could often be an everyday reality for students taking multiple courses simultaneously with varying course assignments and activities running in parallel. Some of those courses may carry more weight — and consequently be more important — in your main academic field of study. In such tight situations, you could decide to select a line of action among some alternatives: • First, you may ignore doing the assignment. That is the worst decision and has the most undesirable outcome. You will most likely get no point by choosing to do so. The final grade you get for the course will undoubtedly be lower (if not outright poor) as a consequence! • Secondly, you could decide to do the assignment in a very carefree manner paying little to no attention to the specific requirements and how or what you write. The outcome of making such a decision is no more desirable than the first alternative mentioned above. You would most likely receive a low grade. Other things being constant, your final course grade will be negatively impacted. • As a third alternative, even with the chaotic reality earlier described, you can decide to save your time and also your grade by having one of our expert writers, versed in the subject area, assist you in writing the essay according to your taste and specification. Undeniably, you will free up the time to focus on other assignments and activities, while still ensuring that your essay is thoroughly written to get you the high grade you deserve. We strongly believe every student deserves the benefit of having that third option. There is only so much you can do as an individual in a demanding and high-pressure academic environment. The beauty of our service is that you get your very own custom essay already knowing what it contains by the time you receive it since it is written with your guidance and specifications. What is an Immigration Essay — From A to Z The topic of immigration is relatively wide. Numerous issues and subtopics can be explored therein. Immigration is the movement of non-native people or foreigners to new destinations (usually countries) for permanent resettlement as residents and possibly obtaining citizenship after a required period and meeting other requirements. The purpose for which people immigrate may vary but could be classified as being economical, social, or political. Another way the term is understood includes temporary residence in a country as a migrant worker, student or some other status. It may be helpful to understand the meaning of a couple of related terms to immigration and how they connect. 1. Emigration — this is the outward movement of people from a place with the goal to settle elsewhere or temporarily take residence in the new destination. 2. Migration — this is the broad term that refers to the movement of people to and fro places. In other words, migration combines the ideas of immigration and emigration into one word. As mentioned previously, the purpose of immigration varies. For people who seek to move to a different country to improve their income or career prospects, they are considered to be economic migrants. People who move primarily to be with their families or loved ones, or for similar reasons are considered to be social migrants. Others who are doing so to flee adverse political situations such as persecution of dissidents, politically motivated violence, or similar circumstances are referred to as political migrants. These are some basic ideas about the topic you should know when you are tasked with writing an essay about immigration. How to Write an Essay on Immigration Properly? Before you start writing your essay, it is necessary to know and clearly understand the requirements including topic, length of essay, structure, and others. To do a great job at writing the essay, it goes without saying that knowledge of the topic or issue is crucial. Researching the topic will be an excellent way to get familiar with the topic. However, you may not have sufficient time to allocate for it. That is what necessitates the assistance of our expert essay writers who are versed on the topic of immigration. That said, after researching, the next step is to structure the essay using an outline to organize the content. Then the actual writing begins with close adherence to the given requirements. There should be an introductory paragraph to help the reader understand what the paper will address and the writer's standpoint. Then the body of the essay will follow in paragraphs. They should be organized to flow into one another sequentially and logically. Finally, there should be a conclusion to the essay. How to Start an Essay About Immigration? As previously mentioned, having sufficient knowledge of the topic and what is the requirement is a good starting point. But with regards to writing, it also helps to know how to start an essay about immigration. There are always different creative ways to start your essay. Since the title will be the first line of contact with the reader, it makes sense to have a good title for an immigration essay if you are given the liberty of choosing a topic. The title should be inviting and catchy making someone taking a cursory look desire to read the essay. That said the title should conform with requirements like the character or word length and styling. Immigration Scholarship Essay Contest There are situations whereby scholarships are awarded to deserving students based on their performance in an essay contest. As should be expected, such immigration scholarship essay contests are typically competitive especially when the financial awards in scholarships involve appreciably large sums of money. For instance, students may be required to write an essay on a given topic and title about immigration. Illegal Immigration Pros and Cons Illegal immigration involves the movement of people to destinations in any manner that does not conform to existing laws of the destination country. When the chosen or given topic specifically concerns assessing or exploring the illegal immigration pros and cons, the nature of the essay would depend on the specific requirements. If, for example, it is required to be an argumentative essay, that means the student would have to take a position on the issue and attempt to persuade the reader to see and accept his views through coherent arguments. Regardless, this is an exciting topic to write an essay about. Immigration Story An immigration story involves exploring or revealing the realities of such a movement of people to a new country for whatever reason through the anecdote of a person or people who have gone through the process. It usually means getting the person or people in focus to share their experience and opinions regarding specific aspects of the process. For example, how long it took to get approved and receive visas or residence permit or even citizenship status. Advantages and Disadvantages of Immigration Similar to the pros and cons of illegal immigration, this topic is merely broader. It involves exploring the advantages and disadvantages of immigration. Some positive aspects would include the attraction of skilled labor, population boost if the destination country is underpopulated. The negative aspects may include a change in indigenous cultural landscape, overpopulation if the country is already highly populated, a decrease in employment opportunities, diminishing quality of existing public amenities due to fast population growth. How to End an Essay about Immigration? Depending on the type of essay being written, the way of how to end an essay about immigration may vary. However, it should have a concluding paragraph that summarizes the essay body and restates the key ideas or position of the writer on the topic. In other words, from reading the concluding paragraph, the reader should be able to get insights into what was written about in the essay body and the concluding point of the writer. Immigration Essay Topics Ideas There are numerous and varied immigration topics to write about, and here are some topics you may wish to consider: 1. The economic impact of immigration (in a specific place over a period). 2. The socio-political attitudes to immigration (in a particular country or location). 3. Xenophobia: the realities (in a specific place). 4. Should a border wall be built between the southern border of United States of America and Mexico? What are your main reasons? 5. Refugee crisis: Should refugees be given a fixed term permit of residence in Europe after which they should return to their countries? 6. What are the most pressing reasons for allowing liberal cross-border migration across Europe? 7. Deadly sea journeys: Should Italy, Malta, and Greece accept all migrants who successfully survive the mediterranean sea to get to Europe? 8. Illegal immigration flows into Europe: Consequences and solutions. 9. US Immigration under Trump: Is a stricter immigration policy of Donald Trump beneficial or detrimental to the US Economy? 10. DACA in the US: Should it be maintained or repealed? Immigration Essay Outline Example Although previously mentioned, the outline of an essay allows the writer to layout the structure of the essay and then build on it. But to be more specific, suppose you are required to write an essay arguing about illegal immigration, what could such an illegal Immigration argumentative essay outline look like? Below is an example: • The essay title -Illegal Immigration: More Pain and Drain than Gain; • The introductory paragraph — The nature of illegal immigration and why you stand against it; • Paragraph 1 — Some history, anecdotes about the issue of illegal immigration; • Paragraph 2 — The consequences and concrete examples perhaps using statistical figures; • Paragraph 3 — Pushing or advancing the arguments against illegal immigration; • Conclusion — Briefly restating supporting points, the consequences of illegal immigration, all logically leading to your position against it. With the above explanations, immigration essay topics, and insights, we hope you can get started working on your essay. If for any reason, you have issues completing or creating your own essay, feel free to reach out to us. As an academic writing service with a history of excellence in our services, we can help you create essays that meet your particular requirements and do so in time without compromising the quality of the final work. You are going to be getting access to some of the most skilled and experienced writers available to assist you. If you have any questions about our service or how to get started, do not hesitate to contact our online support team who are always available around the clock to help you as best as they can. We look forward to contributing substantially to your academic life.
dclm_baseline
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HSE / Compliance veriforce ewn isn nccer pec disa ncms Gold Shovel Standard Zero Incidents With more than 450 thousand man hours annually, Halo strives to achieve an overall total recordable incident rate (TRIR) and overall lost-time frequency rate (LTFR) of zero. Halo is committed to providing employees with equipment, training, and best practices to achieve a shared goal of zero incidents. Halo strives to have employees return safely to their families every day. Safety Innovations Halo’s innovative safety program has set standards for the construction industry. Our achievements include: • Safety Management System—a web-based service used to reduce time spent creating safety reports, improve accuracy of tracking, provide real-time safety statistics, and help analyze trends using graphical data. • Behavioral Based Safety—teaching employees to eliminate hazards and dangerous conditions by correcting unsafe behavior through positive coaching. • In addition to everyday safety programs and practices, Halo welcomes and regularly undergoes thorough safety audits. Operator Qualifications, OQ Bringing Safety Home Halo recognizes that its most valuable assets are its employees. Halo is dedicated to providing and maintaining a safe and healthy work environment for all employees at work and at home. By demonstrating and communicating the importance of safety with family, friends, and neighbors, Halo’s safety culture extends beyond its job sites and offices and out into the community at large.
dclm_baseline
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You know the Movember movement in which men agree not to shave for the month to raise money for charity? Apparently there's a female equivalent called Armpits4August now that requires women not to shave their armpits all month, all in the name of raising awareness (and money by having people sponsor your lack of shaving) for polycystic ovary syndrome. The idea is to show solidarity to those effected by the condition—one of the possible symptoms of PCOS, which effects about 10 percent of women, is excessive hair growth, you see. So it may sound a little outlandish, but it actually makes some sort of sense. Seems like it's mostly an overseas thing for now, but it's catching on, so prepare to see a lot of hairy pits come next August. You can read about the program here. Any of you considering joining in next year? Photos: Comstock/Getty Images
dclm_baseline
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Pope contender blames Catholic Church sex abuse scandal on gay priests Washington, Feb 22: A frontrunner to succeed Pope Benedict XVI has raised suggestions that gay priests are partly to blame for the sex abuse scandal that rocked the Catholic Church. According to Cardinal Peter Turkson of Ghana, homosexuality, which he termed as ‘cultural taboo’, is against the faith and the mission of the Church, which is the reason why homosexual priests are responsible for the Church’s sex abuse scandal, Huffington Post reports. Insisting that homosexuality has not gained the same ground in Africa as in Europe, Turkson said that in several cultures in Africa, homosexuality, or any affair between two sexes of the same kind are not countenanced in their society as African traditional systems tend to protect its population against this tendency. Turkson’s perceived anti-gay remarks were quickly condemned by pro-gay groups like the Survivors Network of those Abused by Priests, who stated that less is heard about clergy sex crimes and cover ups in Africa for the same reasons as in the developing world-there tend to be lesser funding for law enforcement, less vigorous civil justice systems, less independent journalism. (ANI)
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ROLF PPiE ACHES FOIt TEMPLARS Coiuaaaferr Easter Senmi la Zvvagdieal Church of Peaea PUa ConeUre. Rock Island commaudery. No. IS, Knights Templar, will attend Eas ter aerrlces la the Era nge Ileal Cborcb of Peace on tie afternoon of Eaater day. the aermon to be preached by Rct. F. J. JRolf. pastor of the elrarch. Members of the commandery will assemble at Masonic temple at 2 o'clock in the afternoon, and head ed by the A moo grotto band of 60 Special Offering for Scout Week RECORDS for the "KIDDIES" Mother Goose Talking Book 35c Talking Toys 15c Thesr? records play on any talking machine BAAS' MUSIC SHOP ext to Fort Arnistrons Theatre BOSTON SHOE CO 1726 2nd Ave. FRIDAY'S SCOUT SPECIAL THE DELMAR Men's black velour calf shoe, mat calf top, medium toe, snappy perforations, regular price $8.00. Scout sale price $5.85 BOSTON SHOE CO Rock Island Hope Bleached Muslin Of the best quality and a ma terial thatv ereryone knows about. Scout special 1 tomorrow, yard 1JC (First Floor) Fine Dress Ginghams 32 inches wide and in new spring styles. A well known brand that sells for 39c. Scout special for 1 Q tomorrow, yard JLUC (Bargain Square) Beautiful Cedar Chests 40 inch, plain Cedar Chest at ::12.95 40 inch, brass trimmed Cedar Chest H.5 43 inch, plain and brars trimmed Cedar Chest . .flC.95 L S. McCABC S CO. Three Desirable Specials at KODAK During Scout Week Sale $2.75 long grain 0- leather albums . . . 3JLItl $2.75 whip cord Qjr leather albums ...O.LIt) $3.00 maroon mar- QQ OfT ble leather albums S0 We guarantee every one ot the above albums to be genuine leather and a product of the foremost album manufactur ers of America, the Farron S. Betts Co. Hunter's 1619 2nd Ave. pieces will inarch to the church where the aerriee will be held at 3 o'clock. s Commandery members at their business meeting next Monday night will consider preliminary arrangementa to attend sessions of the grand commandery of Illinois ta Peoria, Sept. 11. 12 and 13. Present Indications are that the commaadery '"'111 be represented at Peoria by delegation of 300. James L. Hlckey, recorder, has bean notified by the officer i of Peoria commandery that 1,500 automobiles will convey a delegation of Chicago Knights to the conclave. One Chi cago commandery bas secured the entire Fey hotel for headquarters, and another Chicago commandery bas rented three floors of Hotel Jefferson.. All the News All the Time The Argus. Rock Island BARGAINS ON SALE ONE DAY ONLY BOY SCOUT WEEK THURSDAY SPECIAL Raincoats $5, $10 S15 Sold at SlOeOO TO $27.50 Ullemeyer The Clothier Shades We can do wonders" -with your old shades. Repainting, cleaning or reversing and new rollers. New cloth on old rollers. Shades up to 3S inches wide both sides painted, 60c each. One side only, 40c. Order now and boost the scouts. Five per cent of Fri day's and Saturday's orders given to scout work. ROCK ISLAND SHADE CO. 2726 ELETEXTH STREET ROCK ISLA.D Bengston's SCOUT SPECIAL FOR FRIDAY Pepsodent Tooth paste 29c Friday BENGSTON'S DRUG STORE Keck Island Darenport ' Moline SPECIAL TOMORROW Jack Tar Togs Girls $3.95 Wash Dresses Ages 3 to 14. i at $2.95 Third Floor On County Records I o o , TTarraBty Deeds. Edward H. Guyer and wife to Joseph McGinley. Lot 25, block 5. Second Edgewood Park. Rock Is land. 9350. Brayton and Lonla M. Briggs to Sadie Lawrence. Lot 10. block I. Terrace's addition. Rock Island. L Fridolf A. Nelson and wife Mary to Catherine Fuchs. Lot 21. block 3, Smith &. White's addition, Moline. $L Albert Jezowit and wife to John McEniry. Lots 4, 6, 6, block 3, McEniry & Silvia' addition to New Shop. Silvls. $1. Ben L. Barber to Alfons Beert. Lot hi, block 159. East Moline. 1750. Spperaa Demopoulos to Harry Merchants Buy Jrriday FRIDAY SCOUT SPECIAL Misses' and children's ma hogany calf lace shoes, with good roomy toes. All solid. Medium weight soles. Sizes S'i to 2. Especially priced at $2.85 Priester & Hickey 218 18th Street Headquarters for EDUCATOR Shoes. 24 lb. Family Scale Constructed Cold Drawn Steel. Black enameled. 6V4 in. slanting dial with legible black figures. Brass screw adjustment. $1.79 One pound Jo'onson's Pre pared Wax for floors, furni ture ami automobiles. Very special, per can 64c Ferry's Lawn Grass Mixture. A thoroughly first class seed for lawns, per lb. 50c I Hardware Co. 1802-1804 2d Ave. Spool Silk Black or colors, 50 yards on a spool, C each JC (First Floor) American Percales Short lengths in grey and light styles, 1 C yard' 1C (Basement) Snit Cases Black or brown, 24 inch size. Just for tomorrow, Q O each IOC (First Floor) Fountain Pens Self filling, not the regular cheap pen but a pen that has sold as high as $3.00. Only one to a customer, CQ tomorrow OIC (First Floor) YOUNG & MCI1BS Bali-Bearing Roller . Skates f cr Boys and. Girls, Friday Only $1.25 B.M.Jones 1609 2nd Ave. THURSDAY THE ROCK ISLAND ARGUS APRIL Ballios. His Interest in lot 2, block 159, East Moline. si. j William R- Carse and wife tc Ralph A. and spencer Anaeraoo. Part lota 9-8. block 39, Lower addi tion. Rock Island. $1. Lena Stewart to Charles Dhaen ens. East 43 1-3 feet lot 9. block 2, S. W. Wheelock's addition, Moline. $3,500. Arthur E. Genung. et al, to John C. Mose. West half, southeast quarter section 27-19-2 east. $18, 900. Arthur E. Genung and wire to Clarence F. Genung. South half northeast quarter section 32-20-2 east. $10. Efstathion Demetrois to Lavas Efstathion. Lot 12, block 7. SilvisL $S00. Guyer & White to Charles King Anderson. - Lots 16-17. block 1. Short Hill addition. East Moline. $900. Myers Optical Co FRAMED MOTTOES All New Large Stock 49c Each Only 100 Will Be Sold at This Price. We ad vise shop early. Next to the R. I. ' Savings Bank RIMCO ELECTRIC TOASTERS Manufactured by The Rock Island Mfg. Co. Fully Guaranteed Special Introductory Offer $1.00 Down $1.00 Per Week Island City Fixture Co. Distributors 1625 Second ATenne Opposite The Argus Office W. E. Hartman, Prop. Bleuer's FRIDAY SPECIALS Big Bens and Baby Bens 0 rjjr each .... Pf p Big Bens and Baby Bens, luminous dials each C0 CA at Jeweler and Optometrist 1702 2nd Ave. FOLEY'S DRUG STORE . GRAHAM VEGETABLE SOAP 3 BARS ' 19c John E. and Nellie M. Samuels to Rudolph K. Watkins. Lot 2, Charles Bruchman's addition. Rock Island. $1. Oscar and Amelia C. Larson to Minnie Schultz. Lot 6. block 1. Stevens' third addition, Moline. $1. Raymond and Mildred Holm gren "to Philip T. Linden. Lot 5, block 1, Lundahl's Nineteenth street addition. Moline. $1- Milton and Ethel Jennings to Lawrence E. Peterson. Lot 2, block 3, Highland addition. MoUne. $1. Joseph and Mary Servis to Louis and Edith Ortell. Lot 17, F. F. Vogel's addition. Rock Island. $1. Peter Paulsen and wife Cath erine to Leo F. Brutus and wife. Lot 128, Emma Velie's addition, Mo line. $1. H. G. Glen and wife Ida and W. L. Ogden " and wife to Otto and Lena Russ. East 40 feet lots 1-2-3, and Boost the Scouts Week Spe SUGAR BO WL Confectionery 1712 Second Ave. Honey brittle 1 per lb XVk, Mixed chocolates OQ per lb UVK, Large chocolate QQ rabbits OUU Mixed candy 1 Q per lb .. X7 Special for Scout Week FOR SCOUT WEEK ONLY Special Plate Lunch Served from 11:00 a. m. to 2 p. m. and 5 to 8 o'clock. Choice of roast meats, potatoes, rolls and butter, coffee, tea or milk, pie or rice pud ding 45c DeLuxe CAFE 1800 Block Underwear Wilson Bros.' Handkerchief Cloth Athletic Underwear, $1.50 Values, Friday Special $1.00 Mosenfelder & Sons Rock Island THE MOTOR INN 1810 3rd Ave. Get our prices be fore you buy your tires, oil or auto mobile accessories Sale Distributors MILLER TIRES Phone R.I. 916 6, 1922. ! block 5, South Park second addi tion. Rock Island. $1. George Siemon to Bertha Martin. Lot 3, Frank Vogel's addition, Rock Island. $1. Lottie Sunley to Bert Corken. Lot 26, Huber & Peetz addition, Rock Island. $1. Edwin H. Clement and wife Mag celene and Carrie Clement to John Botke and wife Ida. South half lot 5, George Mixter's sub-division of outlot 24, Rock Island. $1. Bert W. Newton and wife Min nie to F. E. Wright and wife. Lot 5. block 5, Black Hawk addition, Rock Island. $1. Nab C. Mitchem, et al. to Nellie J. Scully. East 20 feet lot 4, block 17. Spencer & Case addition. Rock Island. $1. Mathilda Dunlap, Walter Dunlap and wife Ruby, Raymond L. Dunlap and wife Ethel and Grace May Dun lap to Otto F. Bendt South half BRUNER'3 BRUNSWICK SHOP BIG SPECIAL FRIDAY $45 Columbia. Phonograph for $22.50 BRUNER'S BRUNSWICK SHOP 1808 3rd Ave. R. I. 1060 G.F.Burgston SCOUT SPECIAL FOR FRIDAY 50c lisle and mer cerized socks, three pairs for $1.00 G.F.Burgston 1820 2nd Avenue Harper House Block FRIDAY SPECIAL Bob'o'link Inter mittant ALARM CLOCKS 98c Has back bell and is guaranteed. J.Ramser's Sons 1800 Block SCOUT WEEK SPECIALS Reg. val. At Standex gasoline gauge $2.00 $1.50 Little Giant Anti rattlers ... .50 .40 Fan belt guides ... .25 .12 Polarine cup grease 1 lb cans 30 .20 2-bulb. tail, lamps, electric 2.75 1.70 Single bulb tail lamps, electric . . .80 .65 Hydrometer 1.15 .SO Shaler lens 3.00 2.50 4 oz. bottle shel lac 35 .28 2 oz. bottle shel lac 25 .20 Tool boxes 2.65 2.25 Red Seal batteries. .45 .35 HORST & STRICTER 2nd Avenue . Rock Island of lot 5, Douglas Hall's sub-division southwest quarter section 15-17-2 west. I lvn to Hnlda. M. f'arltnn T m ' block 7. Forest Hill second addition." Moiine. i. William Dickson and wife Edith to Ralph W. Palmer and wife. East 40 feet lot 13 and west 20 feet lot 12. block 5, William Dickson's addi tion to village of Milan $1. Robert Watkins and wife Minnie to Arthur Jones and wife. Lot 20, block 9. Silvis. $1. Nellie J. Scully to Benjamin '. Mitchem. East 20 feet lot 4, block 17, Spencer &. Case addition. Rock Island. $1. Christian G. Gustafson to Leo F. Brutus and wife Ella. Lot 128; Enrma Velie addition, Moline. $1. Edward M. Guyer and wife to Charles Bruckmann. Lot half Charles Bruckmann's addition. Rock Island. $1.. Thursday, Friday Scout Days Tri-City Auto Supply Co. "Motor Row" Rock Island, I1L Special for FRIDAY 30x3 Grey Tubes $1.30 30x3 V Grey Tubes $1.35 $5.00 Spot Lamps $2.95 Tube Repair Kits . . 25c Marvel Vulcanizers 70c Open Evenings till 8:30. Sundays 12 Noon Friday and Saturday FREE $1.25 bottle capper with each purchase of 2 cans of Besco Malt and Hops. Besco model D capper. $2.50, special . . $2.00 Besco model B capper. $2.90, scout prn special DJUUJ Trick Jokes, Novelties Paper hats, false faces, play ing cards, score cards, tally cards and place cards. Paper napkins and high class favors of all kinds. BEARDSLEY SPECIALTY CO. 217 18th St. Rock Island, III. FREE 50c Boncilla Beauty Package Beautifier, Cold Cream. Van ishing Cream and Powder With each $1.00 or over- purchase in our Toilet Goods Depart ment. ' , Friday Only 2nd ATe. and 17th Street, Rock Island, 111. The Rock Island Merchants Scout Week Is the first event of its kind in the United States. Help make it a huge success and a camp for the Scouts. THE ROCK ISLAND MERCHANTS ROOMERS STEAL CLOTHES, THEN I "1 MAKE GETAWAY Speci! Slo'ine Vmr A reward of $25 is offered for e apprehension of a man and wo man who are suspected of stalia numerous articles of wearing i parel from the residence of A. u 1 Irwin. 1614 Fifth avenue, Moline A i The man Is about 5 feet 7 inch"! in height and up'ffha ,. t-Jl I puuuas. ne is a oiona, wore a frrey "'ciujai aua cap ana overalls. Tie woman was dressed in dark clothes and wore shell-rimmed glasses The couple engaged a room t the Irwin residence Monday eTp. ning. Yesterday morning they were gone. At the same time the Irwins discovered that most of their clout ing was missing, including Bkiru snirts, waists, shoes and trouer , I . : ti are FRIDAY AND SATURDAY SPECIALS Assorted Cream Nut Caramels, per lb 39c Peanut Candy. 2 lbs 25c 25c Peanut Brittle 2 lbs AT DeLuxe Sweet Shop Special Twelve 4x6 photo graphs in 7x11 fold ers for $7.00 Fort Armstrong Theatre Bldg Rock Island, III. The new Wilson Bros, fine light weight drop stitch Hose, all colors 49c Tom Haege In the 1800 Block Rock Island Fine Tailoring ad Men's Furnish.'!! srs Trans-Mississippi EXPOSITION and PAGEANT of PROGRrSS Rock Island, 111. Rock Island's Greatest Event June 24 July 4 Inclusive M K t.
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Lack Of Sleep Puts You At Risk For Life Threatening Diseases There is a lot of advice out there telling you how to stay healthy. You are told you must eat right to ensure your body receives all the nutrients it needs to function. Experts tell us about the importance of exercise and how it can keep our bodies healthy and fit. One of the most essential pieces of advice you will hear is how dangerous lack of sleep is. When you get the proper amount of sleep, you are protecting your physical health, safety, quality of life and mental health. Your Brain During Sleep When you are sleeping, your brain is preparing for the next day as it recovers from the day you’ve just gone through. It begins to form new pathways to enable you to learn and remember new information. Research has proven when you get adequate sleep during the night; you will be able to learn new information easier the next day. Sleep will allow you to pay attention better, make decisions easier, and be more creative. Physical health is significantly affected by the amount of sleep a person gets. While you are sleeping, your body is able to heal heart and blood vessels. Sleep will also help maintain your balance of hormones controlling your appetite. A lack of sleep will increase levels of ghrelin and decrease leptin. These increases and decreases will cause you to feel hungry. There are also many diseases that you become susceptible to with a lack of sleep. Cardiovascular Disease Inadequate sleep has been linked to cardiovascular disease and a study found new evidence that the two are connected. Regardless of your age, whether or not you smoke, exercise, or what your weight is; people who lack in sleep are at the greatest risk for heart disease. During a study of 3,000 adults, results came back that those who slept less than six hours a night were at twice the risk of a heart attack or stroke. Diabetes and Obesity Experts have long reported a lack of sleep is directly responsible for diabetes. Fatty acid levels in your blood impact the speed of your metabolism and your insulin’s ability to control blood sugar. During a study of men who only received four hours of sleep over three nights, their levels of fatty acid increased. Their levels increased up to 30% more than men who slept eight and half hours those same three nights. The John Hopkins University discovered a lack of sleep could increase the speed Alzheimer’s progresses and may even be the cause a person develops the disease. The University based their findings on previous data that proper sleep allows the brain to dispose of ‘cerebral waste’ or buildup that accumulates and causes dementia. Poor sleep patterns showed greater amounts of beta-amyloid on participants PET scans. This increased beta-amyloid has proved to be a marker of Alzheimer’s disease. These PET scans show a lack of sleep does prevent your brain from getting rid of cerebral garbage. Research has proven you are susceptible to inflammation of the digestive system when you do not receive the proper amount of sleep. This inflammatory bowel disease, Ulcerative Colitis produces ulcers within the lining of your gastrointestinal tract. This disease of the digestive system, as well as Crohn’s Disease, is both related to sleep deprivation or from receiving too much sleep. A study at the Massachusetts General Hospital discovered risks of Ulcerative Colitis increased when participants had six hours of sleep a night or less. This study also showed risks increased if they received nine hours or more a night. Prostate Cancer Missing valuable hours of sleep has been linked to an increased risk and severity of prostate cancer. In a study of men between 67 and 96 years of age, developing prostate cancer rose 60% in men who reported they had trouble falling asleep. Men who said they had problems staying asleep and getting a good night of rest showed the risk doubled. The link between sleeping patterns and prostate cancer are attributed to melatonin. Melatonin is a hormone which is supposed to regulate sleep. High levels of this hormone have been found to suppress tumors. Sleep deprivation sufferers are exposed to more artificial light which then results in more aggressive tumor growth. The rate of suicide has been shown to increase with adults who experience a lack of sleep. A 10-year study was conducted at the Stanford University of Medicine where they studied more than 400 participants. From this group, 20 of the participants who reported having trouble sleeping committed suicide. The results of the survey show adults who lack in sleep are 1.4 times more likely to kill themselves than adults receiving adequate sleep each night. Numerous studies are out there proving lack of sleep can lead to serious, life-threatening diseases. Sleep is supposed to be one of the most pleasant and relaxing things we do in life that gives our systems a chance to catch up and rejuvenate. It is important that we make sure we are receiving the amount of sleep our bodies need to lead a healthy, active life.
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Talking to Evanturetime about his new EP folds and the "joy and anguish towards his journey of discovery" Evanturetime's new EP, folds, out today, has been a long time coming. 'Vultures' – written with Linying and featuring Charlie Lim – was released in October 2016, and remains a standout of the EP today. Since then, producer and multi-instrumentalist Evan Low has been releasing songs and thus slowly unveiling the EP piecemeal, but taking care not to show his hand completely. There are still surprises on folds, like the intriguing found sounds sampled on his tracks, the more abstract tracks interspersed between the poppier cuts, and unexpected features, such as jazz maestro Chok Kerong's appearance on 'This High', also featuring Tim De Cotta, and Japanese artist Michael Kaneko on 'White Lies'. We talked to Evan about the process of making folds, how he picks his collaborators, and how emerging producer XVAN landed a spot on the EP's track list with his remix of 'Sober'. Why the origami theme? Origami paper is usually sold in a prepacked set of squares. The versatility and sturdiness of the final sculpture reminds me of the various journeys my collaborators and I have made to reach where we are as creatives today. ‘Vultures’ was released October 2016. How long has folds been in the making? Almost as far back as five years ago, to be honest! I was always fiddling on tunes and unusual approaches to pop songs, but I never really thought about releasing any of them until the first single 'Vultures' that Linying and I wrote. It was with the encouragement of my friends (most of the collaborators in this record actually!) for me to step out on my own that I decided to put these tunes out! What kind of sounds were you working with for this album? That sounds like an ATM on ‘I Need To Withdraw Some Money’… It is! I've tried to incorporate as much local sound bites in my tracks as much as I can. I made it my personal little mission for me to figure out what a "Singapore sound" might be like. To figure out an audible identity for my country in my own little way. So... sampling local sounds is one of the first few steps to create a familiar canvas to kickstart this whole thing. How do you pick artists and vocalists you want to collaborate with? How involved is the collaborative process, usually? The album is an excuse for me to get people to admire to work together actually. (laughs) For reals though, the collaborators I chose to get on this record was a conscious decision on my part for me to reimagine them in situations where they won't be usually seen in. Tell us more about the mix of more straightforward, poppy songs and abstracter interludes on this EP. The idea was to depict my struggles between writing for work (in my usual commercial and pop projects) and writing for my own artistic sanity. To find a safe mental and sonic space to be in is extremely difficult for me and I wanted the listener to feel my joy and my anguish towards my journey of discovery, all while using the local sound bites that we talked about earlier as a common ground. You held a contest to pick a remix of ‘Sober’ to fill the last spot on your EP. Why hold the contest, and how did you settle on the XVAN remix? 'Sober' is easily the poppiest tune that I have on the record. I wanted to give out the stems to the public because I've been hearing so [many] amazingly young and talented pop producers out there who are incredible in their own right. I wanted to see how they'd have done the tune if they were given the chance to work with the boys like I did. Picking XVAN was a really, really difficult decision. The boys (Ben, Nathan, Jon) and I were pretty torn between a ton of amazing submissions but XVAN's track was a refreshing point-of-view from the rest of the EP, so we thought it might be the best fit for the record when someone chooses to listen to the EP from top to bottom. Evanturetime's new EP folds is out now. Stream it below:
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‘Killing Eve’ 3×06 Review: “End of Game” In Killing Eve 3×06, traps are dangerously closing in Some secrets are revealed and changes are round the corner. We can smell an explosive ending coming for the end of this third season. Here is our Killing Eve 3×06 review! Eve really has got it The last time we saw Eve (Grey’s Anatomy, ABC) was in episode 4 when she watched Niko get “pitch-forked” in the throat in front of her. Well, his mustache must bestow great magical power because he survived. And he is mad at Eve for it. Despite the fake evidence planted by Dasha to point at Villanelle, Eve is not buying it. She knows Villanelle would never go after him because it would hurt her too much. Instead, she recognizes her style in the Lyon murder which took place in the same week and goes after Dasha. Jodie Comer as Villanelle. Photo: BBC America. The two confront in a bowling game (yes — you read that right) as they openly engage in a “who knows Villanelle better?” competition. Dasha calls her a killing machine but Eve disagrees. The beauty of it all is how right Eve is. Villanelle is done with this bullshit The episode starts with Villanelle (Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker) having a meeting with the smartly-dressed French woman, played by Camille Cottin. She informs her she has been made a Keeper. But the so-called promotion is nothing but a hollow title. The glass of champagne comes with a new postcard. Villanelle isn’t fooled — she calls the new mission bullshit and heads to Russia. There she meets with Konstantin and tells him she wants to run away from the Twelve with him. Same old, same old. Photo: BBC America But it is a tricky escape and she must keep up appearances. Villanelle seems resolute, though. She goes to complete the mission but is uncharacteristically sloppy. She gets injured in the process and, as Dasha stitches her up, admits she’s sick of it all with broken composure. Dash witnesses first-hand how much her mentee has changed. Unexpected family ties This episode had a strong family emphasis, coincidentally after the disappointing family reunion Villanelle had previously in 3×05. From the get-go, a sisterly rivalry is shown between Konstantin’s teenage daughter, Irina, and Villanelle at the ice rink. As if both are bickering for their father’s attention. But Irina has the advantage. Villanelle meets with her again to convince her to let her be part of their escape. Konstantins little girls. Photo: BBC America But ironically, Konstantin is many people’s father. In an intense car ride with Carolyn, he admits that Kenny phoned him because he wanted to know if he is his son. Carolyn freezes. Back home, she has an argument with Geraldine that may suggest Kenny’s suspicions were correct: “You were your father’s. He was mine.” Could it mean that Carolyn loved Kenny more dearly because he was Konstantin’s? So Carolyn isn’t immune to love, after all? Perhaps Kenny’s murder has more something to do with Konstantin than we thought. The Twelve’s shadow is lurking The Russian organization was the common danger lurking in the shadow. Eve is warned by Dasha (who, herself, fears them greatly) not to underestimate the Twelve and their power. Meanwhile, Carolyn is getting suspicious of her boss and he’s honestly not doing anything to hide his deceitful nature. This is bullshit. Photo: BBC America And when Eve decides to escape the organization with Konstantin, he says it is impossible to do so without raising suspicions. The Twelve are always watching from their corner, as illustrated when Konstantin found Carolyn’s boss waiting in his bedroom, with the lights off.  The Twelve are everywhere — they have even infiltrated MI6. Konstantin packs a suitcase in the middle of the night to run away with Irina but it has “failed attempt” written all over it. And in Killing 3×06 it becomes undeniable that all the characters are caught in a trap that is slowly closing in on them. It is only a matter of time before it snaps. Share your thoughts on our Killing Eve 3×06 review with @CapeandCastle! Leave a comment
dclm_baseline
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1/23/2005 10:38:00 pm - Reported by Shaun Lyon January 23, 2005 • Posted By Shaun Lyon Some additional casting updates: in the story "The Empty Child," Florence Hoath plays Nancy, and Albert Valentineplays Empty Child. Also, some crew updates: Matthew Savage is currently the main conceptual artist on the series, providing the vast majority of drawings under the supervision of Ed Thomas, and was responsible among many other things for producing the concepts for the new Dalek. Liz Griffiths is currently the Set Decorator, having taken over from Peter Walpole when he and props designer Patrick Begley moved to another production. The current props makers are Mark Cordory and Nicholas Robatto, with others working in their shop. Meanwhile, the first assistant director on episodes 9 and 10 is Jon Older, who wrote to Outpost Gallifrey to let us know that, in the location shoot report from January 14, "it wasn't the Director (nice bloke that he is) that went over to thank the little group of fans who were watching us shoot for agreeing to get out of shot - it was me. And also to point out that security guards aren't the most reliable source of info regarding plot points and schedules!" Peter Davison's daughter, Georgia Moffat, has revealed that she auditioned for the part of Rose in Doctor Who. Interviewed in the 22 January edition of 'Saturday' (a magazine given free with the Daily Express), Georgia says: 'They told me straight away that I wasn't right, which didn't bother me too much. It might have been a bit twee if I'd got it, as dad had previously played Dr Who (sic).When I told him I was up for the audition, he was excited as he really enjoyed the role and still plays tapes of the show to my two step brothers (Louis, four, and two-year-old Joel)'. (Thanks to Ian Wheeler) By the way, we're hearing that internally at the BBC, March 26 is still the target date for the return of the series.
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very hard men I think I´m tough because of my military experience, apart from that….nothing. I came up with a familly who provided lights,food, roof over the head, education,mom is my communication, dad is the rare but necessary infiltration. Father (and mother)grew up with absolutely no money after the Spanish civil war, I can go and go and go on about how he made it to what he is now and I think even before. His 3 other brothers lets say to be nice, are not the best, but he made something of himself. I won´t go into much detail, apart from reading my post of him,fuck shit! I believe these type of people are really born with a drive, that drive took him to places that when I learn from it, from mother ofcourse since this man will never tell me nothing, that fucking drive you have to be born with it. My guess, but even though I might have not been up to his expectations or I might have been I will never really know and I don´t really care by the way, it´s me and me, love him to death though and he, well my pretty guess is that, in his own way, he does loves me. Getting out of topic, a hard man, from building bricks to building nations on politicians that are SOME, not all, dicks. Stay Frosty gents and gentesses. Leave a Reply You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change ) Google photo Twitter picture Facebook photo Connecting to %s
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Will exercising every day make you unhappy? Recent research says yes - but if you like to run every day, you should do it, says Paul Halford DSC_0085 - Edited.jpg Results of a study published this morning in The Lancet concluded that exercising for more than 90 minutes or more than five times a week could be bad for your mental health. Many of us runners would disagree, using our own experiences as evidence. So who is right? Should those who do two-hour long runs or only have one rest day per week start hacking back in order to feel happier? A closer look at the study reveals that "exercise" was defined as any type of physical activity, including childcare, housework, lawn-mowing and fishing. I don't know about you - but mowing the lawn every day would make me pretty miserable! Including all these other sorts of activities in the survey seems to throw the results into question when it comes to analysing the real benefits of proper exercise. While housework as an activity is to be encouraged for sedentary individuals, we believe that running can bring much more enjoyment than doing the vacuuming the floor. Writing a linked comment in The Lancet, Dr Gary Cooney, Gartnavel Royal Hospital, said: "A final caution pertains to how studies approach a definition of exercise. In the current study, we see the inclusion of activities such as childcare, housework, lawn-mowing, carpentry, fishing, and yoga as forms of exercise. In other studies, these activities would be excluded for not fulfilling the definition of exercise as offered by the American College of Sports Medicine:.. The study by Chekroud and colleagues, in its all-encompassing approach, might more accurately be considered a study in physical activity rather than exercise." However, it should be pointed out that, in this study of 1.2 million people living in the USA, even when the activities were isolated to "running and jogging", there was a slight rise in the number of days of poor mental health reported when frequency rose above 24 times per month - and when duration increased beyond 45 minutes. This would seem to fly in the face of our own anecdotal evidence, though. After all, don't we feel much better for the rest of the day knowing that we've done our run? Several studies show how exercise release endorphins which make us feel better, so why should these positives wear off just because we'd done more than five times in the past week? The authors admitted: "The study used people’s self-reported assessment of their mental health and exercise levels so could be subject to bias. It also only asked participants about their main form of exercise so could underestimate the amount of exercise they do if they do more than one type." Nevertheless, we should not disregard the results of the largest observational study of its kind. One of the authors of the study, Adam Chekroud, said: “It’s difficult to speculate what is driving the effect. It is easy to imagine why someone might have poor mental health if they are exercising more six or seven days per week. They could be getting run down (physically exhausted) or burned out (mentally), both of which might make them feel stressed or depleted.” Ultimately, though, the figures in the study are only averages. Not everybody likes exercise. Some do, but don't like to do it every day.  If running every day makes you feel happier then, as long as it's not done to an extent or in such a way that it damages you physically, then do it every day. If running every day depresses you, then don't do it! At the same time, maybe we shouldn't be so evangelical when it comes to recommending running to everyone. Suggest it, yes, but don't assume that it works for everyone. So, get out and enjoy running the trails when you feel like it today. Run through the forests or over the hills, be at one with nature, burn those endorphins. Or do the vacuuming if that makes you feel happier. .view-list .excerpt-thumb { display:block !important;
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Фонтен-ле-Рибу () — Франциянең Эр һәм Луар департаментында урнашкан коммуна. Халкы Тышкы сылтамалар Искәрмәләр Чыганаклар Франция шәһәрләре. Франция коммуналары Эр һәм Луар департаменты коммуналары Әлифба буенча торак пунктлар
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As of today, it has been 48 days since the last build of Yandere Simulator! That’s the longest gap we’ve ever had between updates to the game! Fortunately, I think it’s unlikely to happen again anytime in the near future. A new build – and a new video – are now available! It’s another video about the Student Council. The previous video was all about game design and game mechanics – this video is all about character and story. Click “Continue Reading” to see a list of all the changes and additions in the new build, along with some other things I’d like to share with you! Fixes, Changes, and Additions To prevent an exploit that would allow the player to seperate a student from other students by talking to that student repeatedly, a student will now become annoyed with Yandere-chan and refuse to speak to Yandere-chan if the player lets the student’s patience run out twice during a conversation, or ends a conversation without saying anything twice. To prevent an exploit that would allow the player to seperate a student from other students by aiming a camera at that student’s face indefinitely, students will now only pose for 5 seconds maximum before stopping. Aiming a camera at a student’s face for longer than 5 seconds will annoy the student and result in a reputation penalty. Replaced the interior of the school gym and fixed bug that would cause Yandere-chan to turn invisible / flicker while inside the gym. (Howevere, there is still no collision inside the gym yet). Fixed bug that would cause the school faculty to find a corpse on school grounds even if the player had cleaned up all corpses, after an un-witnessed murder-suicide had taken place at school. Made changes to the flexibility of ragdoll limbs in order to to fix a bug that was causing students’ limbs to rotate violently after becoming ragdolls at the end of a death animation. Added more cherry blossom petals around areas where they would logically be found (on the hill with a cherry tree and at the two fountains east and west of the school entrance). The player must now be less than 1 meter away from a student to attack them. (Previously, the player could attack from 2 meters away, which was super overpowered.) Updated Mei Mio’s hairstyle. I apologize to everyone who liked her old hairstyle, but my vision for the game cannot be realized unless Mei Mio has tri-tails! Fixed bug that would cause Yandere-chan to fly into the sky if she drowned Kokona or pushed Kokona while Kokona was being distracted by another student. if she drowned Kokona or pushed Kokona while Kokona was being distracted by another student. Added a little easter egg character to the “Meme Closet”. Tap the “Laugh” button to free him if he gets stuck somewhere when he’s following you around. Fixed bug that would cause a student to become stuck in a changing booth if they tried to change clothing after reporting murder to a teacher. Fixed bug that prevented a student from getting a Missing Poster if their corpse was hidden by being buried in the Gardening club. Fixed bug that would cause the game to fail to label a blunt weapon as “murder evidence” if it was used for a stealth kill. Trying to sneak a weapon through a metal detector by hiding it inside of a cello case or a trashcan will no longer work. Fixed bug that would cause the game to soft-lock after asking a Placeholder Club Leader for information about a club. Students will now turn to look in the direction of Yandere-chan when she is attacked by Nemesis or the Headmaster. Button prompts will no longer look blurry if the player chooses to run the game at a low texture resolution. Fixed bug that would cause a mind-broken slave’s hair to bend at an extreme angle after being decapitated. Fixed bug that caused blood to appear instead of water when activating blood on a character in Pose Mode. Students now stand up out of their seats at different speeds instead of all standing up simultaneously. Fixed bug that was preventing manga books from being rendered in Yandere-chan’s room in LoveSick mode. Fixed bug that cause a gasoline can hidden inside of a trash can to clip through the can’s model. Made a few minor aesthetic changes to the environment (new prop in the pool area, for example). Fixed bug that would cause “Missing Person” posters to glow brightly in low school atmosphere. Fixed bug that prevented Nemesis from wearing a student’s stockings when impersonating them. The day of the week will no longer be displayed during Mission Mode. (It’s irrelevant.) Fixed bug that would cause some randomly-generated teachers to spawn with nurse hats. Fixed exploit that would allow male students to be tranquilized and kidnapped. You can now press “W” in the debug menu to toggle bookbags for all students. Fixed a bug that was preventing one of the male hairstyles from appearing. Fixed bug that caused Kizana’s hair to be brightly lit at all times of day. Added text to the loading screen to help players troubleshoot crashes. Reduced compression of background music to increase audio quality. There are now sound effects for both running and walking. Replaced the old “cat ears” accessory with a new one. Completely redesigned the Student Council clubroom. The volume of running footsteps has been reduced. Lowered volume of music in Yandere-chan’s home. Added a new joke weapon in the Drama Clubroom. Improved the Headmaster bust in the Art Room. Added a few new hairstyles for Yandere-chan. Added a lock to the gardening shed . . Added an apron to Geiju. Qvajangel I’d like to take a moment to thank the volunteer who created some the hair models and accessory models that are used by the student council! He goes by the username of Qvajangel, and you can see his work here! Qva created the hair models for Kuroko, Shiromi, and Akane. (However, the hair model for Aoi was created by KawaiSugarRose!) Qvajangel accepts commissions! If you wish to see a hairstyle appear in Yandere Simulator, you can commission him to model it, and I’ll include it in the game! You can find his commission sheet here! Actually, Qvajangel is holding an event right now! One randomly-selected winner will be able to design a hairstyle for Yandere Simulator for free! You can read the details here! Oh, by the way…speaking of events… 2017 Art Contest In 2015 and 2016, I held art contests! However, I’ve been so busy with the student council that I didn’t find the time to do anything similar this year…until now! Tomorrow, I’ll announce the theme of the 2017 art contest. If you’re an artist, I hope that you’ll participate! What’s next? There is quite a number of features I’m interested in working on… Bullies Delinquents Real club leaders More club members The guidance counselor Making students react to blood Further work on the new school gym The low-reputation game over sequence The maid minigame and another minigame that has story relevance and another minigame that has story relevance Spending a couple of weeks making a bunch of minor improvements and taking care of miscellaneous “checklist items” like back in October. All of these things need to get done eventually, so it doesn’t really matter what order the work gets done in; the only thing that matters is that it all gets done, one way or another. In short, I’ll continue to do all of the work that needs to be done before I feel like it’s time for Yandere Simulator be judged as a “game” rather than a “debug sandbox for testing purposes”. Once Yandere Sim has reached that state, I’ll implement Osana, release her, and listen to your feedback! Thank you for following the development of Yandere Simulator!
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Noah Trstenjak Hi, my name is Noah Trstenjak. I am the oldest of seven children. I enjoy reading, airsoft, and politics. I serve at BCF by helping with the audio/visual in the Kidnection Elementary wing.  Psalm 27:14 (New American Standard Bible)     People today love the word “instant.” There’s instant oatmeal, instant coffee, instant tea, and instant dinners just to name a few. We just don’t want to wait.      Businessmen rake in millions of dollars by making things faster and easier. Companies offer same-day shipping at a higher rate because people will pay huge amounts just to get things faster.     Fast-food chains are making millions, why? Not because their food is better; they’re simply faster. People don’t want to sit and wait for good food when they could just drive-through somewhere and have it right away.      So, what’s the good news? God is the exact opposite of us. From the moment Adam and Eve sinned, God had a plan for redemption. As far as waiting goes, the Bible gives us a wonderful example of patiently waiting in the story of Jesus’ birth. The birth of Jesus had been foretold for thousands of years by the prophets. What followed these detailed prophecies was a period of profound waiting—four-hundred years from the time when the last book of the Old Testament was written, to the time of Jesus’ birth.      I know that waiting can be hard—sometimes very hard. Maybe you are waiting for something a little more important than your latest online order to arrive. You’ve been praying and waiting for an answer from God for years. I know it can be hard, but be patient. Trust that God knows what He’s doing. And thank goodness answers from God never end up on back order!      During this Christmas season, if you’re waiting for an answer from God about something important, remember that Christmas is really a celebration of something (Jesus) that people had waited and prayed about for centuries. And remember that God always delivers right on time.
dclm_baseline
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Distance from Geilo to Oslo The Distance from Geilo to Oslo is an essential one to plan our travel. It helps to calculate the travel time to reach Oslo and bus fare from Geilo . Our travel distance is from google map. Geilo to Oslo route map is integrated with google map. The blue line between Geilo to Oslo indicate your travel route. The given travel route can be changed by changing way points using drag and drop option. Geilo to Oslo driving direction Geilo to Oslo driving direction guides for your travel along the route. It shows the direction whether you have to go straight , turn left , turn right. or slight turn. The different shape arrow symbol indicate the direction to reach Oslo. The given Geilo to Oslo direction is split into separate laps and the serial number has been given along with narration and distance in mile or kilometer. It also shows the highway number. The balloon A indicate the starting point Geilo and the balloon B indicate the destination Oslo. Geilo to Oslo travel time Geilo to Oslo travel time has been given at the top of the driving direction. The given travel time has been calculated based on the distance and speed of the vehicle which you travel. The given travel time between Geilo and Oslo may vary based on the vehicle consistant speed. Geilo to Oslo travel guide You can use our weather forecast for Geilo and Oslo which has been integrated with google weather. It shows the weather forecast for most of the major places or cities. We are planning to provide more travel information based on the availability for the following, Geilo to Oslo bus timings, Geilo to Oslo tramin timings, Geilo to Oslo bus fare, Geilo to Oslo bus route numbers etc. Distance from Geilo Driving distance from Geilo is available for the following places
dclm_baseline
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We've Been Making YouTube Videos For Over FIVE Years hilah cooking youtube Mar 25, 2015 Since the beginning, I had been obsessed with creating the perfect show format. A format that was quick to produce and that could almost be automated. We made small tweaks to the format over time but had pretty much turned the operation into a video making machine. We did everything exactly the same way every time we shot and could produce the episodes very quickly. This allowed us to at times launch 3 videos per week. This is something I always recommend people do when developing a format for their show. It works. But we had lost the creative energy that was so exciting when we first started out. Last summer, we cranked up the "machine" and got way ahead of schedule so that we could take a few months of baby vacation. For most of that time, we seriously thought that we might have reached an end point. That we were done making new videos. We would leave the channel up but concentrate on the website and on Hilah's opportunities as on-screen talent for other companies. We definitely had lost the passion for making more "stand-and stir" videos. As we mulled over the decision, it didn't feel quite right to just stop. We had spent 5 years building and cultivating this thing. We loved the community that had developed around the show. And we still loved making videos together. Just not the videos we had already made hundreds of. So instead of quitting, we've decided to break the channel. Here's a video that tells the story of how Hilah and I got started on YouTube and where we plan on taking Hilah Cooking in the future. 50% Complete Two Step
dclm_baseline
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Re-skimming Existing Plasterwork If the existing plasterwork has not blown (de-laminated from the original substrate) existing plasterwork can be re-skimmed using a sealer and an appropriate finishing plaster, hairline cracks are generally due to age and shouldn’t be a problem. Over boarding an existing lath and plaster ceilings with plasterboard is a better option to avoid any future movement on badly cracked ceilings. This is a relatively inexpensive way of achieving the look of a freshly plastered walls and ceilings. Textured Walls and Ceilings Restore textured ceilings and walls back to a smooth finish using pva and a coat of carlite bonding to eliminate the texture then apply an appropriate finishing plaster, you will then have perfectly smooth finish. Once dry, wallpaper or emulsion paint can be applied.
dclm_baseline
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 High School Possession (2014) Jennifer Stone, Janel Parrish, Shanley Caswell, Ione Skye, Kelly Hu, William McNamara, Chris Brochu, Ana Walczak, Bailey Anne Borders, August Roads Movie Review High School Possession (2014)   2/52/52/52/52/5 High School Possession (2014) A Lifetime of Possession Chloe (Jennifer Stone - Mean Girls 2) and Lauren (Janel Parrish) have been friends for ages but after Chloe's parents separated she started to change; becoming moody, temperamental and getting in to plenty of trouble as she gets kicked off of the school's football team. Lauren, who is a college journalist, has found herself becoming involved with the religious crowd after agreeing to attend a friend's youth meeting, but is stunned as she witnesses them performing an exorcism on a girl. Wondering if it will help Chloe she turns to her religious friends and asks them to perform an exorcism on Chloe unaware that after Chloe slept with a boyfriend of one of the girl's in the church youth group she wants revenge. Well I've got to give credit where it is due and I don't remember coming across another made for TV movie with a storyline like the one in "High School Possession". Yes there are movies with similar parts but this combination is unusual, although never mistake unusual for good as not all movies which have a different storyline end up working. And sadly "High School Possession" is one of those movies because in trying to appeal to a younger, horror loving audience it ends up coming across as ridiculous. That ridiculousness comes firstly from Chloe's supposed possession as she turns in to a zombie like teen but secondly there is the dialogue with such bad lines as "That was pretty Ryan Gosling of me", said by a young teen after making a move on a girl. The thing is that because "High School Possession" is different when it comes to the storyline as it combines friendship, exorcism, mental health alongside the more common revenge element it does keep you watching. And in fairness it does under play part of the set up which makes you wonder where exactly the storyline is going to end up as we watch Chloe become increasingly troubled the longer the movie goes on, maybe if you watch you will become troubled also. What this all boils down to "High School Possession" is ridiculous, different and entertaining which makes it a movie which whilst keeping my attention I often found myself groaning at again and again, especially when it comes to the dialogue.
dclm_baseline
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Daniel Ziblatt, Coauthor of How Democracies Die, Speaks at Reed Last Friday, Reed students, professors, and visitors packed into Vollum lecture hall to listen to Harvard University Professor Daniel Ziblatt speak on the current threats to American democracy and their potential solutions. Ziblatt, Eaton Professor of the Science of Government, is best known for his book How Democracies Die — a 2018 bestseller that he co-authored with his colleague Steven Levitsky. In his talk, he offered a glimpse into the ideas he explores in his book, including the history of democratic breakdowns, President Donald Trump’s demagogic behaviors, and how the United States can prevent its system of government from further decay. After an introduction by Reed’s Associate Professor of Political Science Mariela Szwarcberg Daby, Ziblatt began his talk by describing a change in the way democracies die. During the era of the Cold War, three quarters of democracies were toppled swiftly by coups. Since then, the use of military force has been replaced by an “electoral road to autocracy,” in which political leaders exploit and corrupt democratic institutions once in office. This process, Ziblatt said, often happens steadily over time and without much notice from the general population — that is, until it is too late. Ziblatt then drew a parallel between these countries and the United States; their constitutions are almost identical. Although many Americans credit the strength of their democracy to the Constitution, Ziblatt believes otherwise. “Constitutions are not self-enacting,” he said. Instead, they require something more: what Ziblatt calls “democratic norms.” The two democratic norms, or unwritten rules, that Ziblatt identified as most vital in preserving American democracy are mutual tolerance and institutional forbearance. He expanded on the latter for the rest of the lecture. When political parties begin to view each other as an existential threat, they abandon the means of cooperation, and politics becomes warfare, argued Ziblatt. Parties will then adopt the strategy of “constitutional hardball,” or violating norms and pushing the bounds of legality by exploiting laws and institutional procedures to undermine their opponents. Historical examples of this in U.S. politics have included court-packing, gerrymandering, filibusters, issuing government shutdowns, and bypassing Congress by declaring national emergencies. In the Trump era, it sounds all too familiar. However, ending political gridlocks at the turn of the century came at the cost of disenfranchising African-Americans during the Reconstruction Era, noted Ziblatt. The initial post-Civil War racial mobility threatened the Democrats’ control of the South, increasing the already-intense political polarization. Southern Democrats introduced voter literacy tests that would dramatically decrease African-American voter turnout. When Republicans finally gave up on the fight for racial equality, the two parties managed to achieve a level of mutual toleration, which persisted for nearly a century. In face of the racial and cultural division between the Democratic and Republican Party today, Ziblatt suggested the solution of diversifying the Republican Party. As it stands today, the party is mostly composed of white Christians, a group that often feels threatened by the increasing diversity of the U.S. today. This fear has led to the recent far-right turn of the Republican Party. If the party were to attempt to appeal to more diverse voters, though, this fear for the future might not permeate the party as much, allowing more moderate policies to be favored. Democrats should also refrain from adopting a tit-for-tat approach, which could potentially normalize constitutional hardball. Instead, they should adopt “anti-hardball” strategies, such as responding to Republican gerrymandering by pushing for independent commissions to draw district boundaries. These compromises on both sides would make it less likely for support of either parties to be an inflexible component of one’s identity, and thus make compromise more feasible. The lecture concluded on a positive note. Ziblatt denied the perception of democratic crises as an inexorable backslide toward disaster, and instead compared the dangers facing American democracy today to an earthquake. “They have deep fault lines. They can inflict major damage. But they do come and go, and they’ve happened in the past,” he said. “The biggest challenge is to get through our current political earthquake with our institutions intact.” Following the forty-minute lecture, Ziblatt answered questions from an eager audience. When questioned about whether democratic norms can survive political agendas that do pose an existential threat, such as a refusal to combat global warming, Ziblatt emphasized the importance of winning elections while tolerating some level of intolerance, or “publicly accepting what you privately despise.” When questioned about how realistic it is for the Republican Party to change, he answered that the future is definitely uncertain. However, while the tragedy of American politics is that it never effectively combined mutual toleration and fully inclusive democracy, Ziblatt believes the two are not incompatible. “Maybe polarization and continued radicalization will lead to calamitous war. Maybe crisis is the way out. But I don’t think that’s the right way to go. My point in writing this book is to draw upon these lessons from the past so that we can make the necessary changes to save democracy — all without falling down a cliff.”
dclm_baseline
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1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates generally to exterior landscape lighting assemblies having a specified form of photocell control and, more particularly, to a remote positionable photocell device capable of being located a spaced distance from a transformer and further capable of providing a unique array of photocell controls to a plurality of exterior lights. 2. Description of the Prior Art The prior art is well documented with outdoor landscaping lighting assemblies and, particularly, lighting assemblies which utilize some form of photocell control for activating and deactivating the outdoor lighting based upon day and night conditions. Generally all landscape lighting systems are powered by 12 volts (V) alternating current (AC) by means of a transformer which converts an AC household power input (typically 120 V AC) to the 12 Volts AC suitable for this type of lighting. The transformer is a necessary component owing to the power input specifications of the various lighting elements which make up the landscaping lighting assembly. Establishing on/off control of landscape lighting systems has traditionally been accomplished in a number of different ways, these including installing a timer on the primary winding of the transformer. The shortcoming however with simple timer assemblies is that they require frequent readjustment, particularly following power outages and further that the transformer must be located in an area accessible to the user in order to make the necessary adjustments. Other types of prior art assemblies include installing a photocell on the exterior of the transformer case and communicated with the primary winding of the transformer. In this variant, the transformer must be mounted on the exterior wall of the home or structure around which is surrounded the lighting assembly. The transformer must be conspicuously located near an available exterior covered ground fault interrupted outlet where the photocell is exposed to natural light (preferably a Northern exposure) and without direct exposure to street lights, porch lights, car headlights and other lights which are directly controlled by the transformer. The drawback of this variant is that most homeowners do not desire having the transformer or any other device located on the exterior of their home in an exposed position. Also, the availability of a suitable outlet at the necessary location for proper functioning of the photocell is likewise often a problem.
mini_pile
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Q: ViewPager delete a page How can I permanently delete a page from a view pager. I want to delete a page when the user presses a button present on that screen. I am struggling a lot with this. I read the documentation of pageradapter and found the destroyitem but it didn't help me much though. I am able to add the images in viewpager but deleting is still giving me a tough time. Please help. Below is the code for the activity in which images are fetched and I want to delete an image on user request. public class ImageDisplayActivity extends Activity { private List<String> filePaths; @Override public void onCreate(Bundle savedInstanceState) { super.onCreate(savedInstanceState); setContentView(R.layout.activity_display1); // Get Image Paths for the PagerAdapter filePaths = getIntent().getExtras().getStringArrayList("filePaths"); int currPosition = getIntent().getExtras().getInt("position"); ViewPager viewPager = (ViewPager) findViewById(R.id.view_pager); viewPager.setCurrentItem(currPosition); ImagePagerAdapter adapter = new ImagePagerAdapter(); viewPager.setAdapter(adapter); } private class ImagePagerAdapter extends PagerAdapter { @Override public int getCount() { return filePaths.size(); } @Override public boolean isViewFromObject(View view, Object object) { return view == ((ImageView) object); } @Override public Object instantiateItem(ViewGroup container, int position) { Context context = ImageDisplayActivity.this; ImageView imageView = new ImageView(context); int padding = 16; imageView.setPadding(padding, padding, padding, padding); imageView.setScaleType(ImageView.ScaleType.CENTER_INSIDE); // Get Image BitmapFactory.Options bmOptions = new BitmapFactory.Options(); bmOptions.inJustDecodeBounds = false; bmOptions.inSampleSize = 4; bmOptions.inPurgeable = true; Bitmap bitmap = BitmapFactory.decodeFile(filePaths.get(position), bmOptions); // Display Image imageView.setImageBitmap(bitmap); ((ViewPager) container).addView(imageView, 0); return imageView; } @Override public void destroyItem(ViewGroup container, int position, Object imageView) { ((ViewPager) container).removeView((ImageView) imageView); } } } A: As @Kuffs is saying, remove the items from filePaths, then notify the adapter about that the underlying data has changed: filePaths.remove(...); // Remove whatever you want adapter.notifyDatasetChanged(); // Tell the adapter that it's time to update views
mini_pile
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Game Management This unique, quirky and innovative product allows you to caution or dismiss a player quickly and easily. Designed to be only used for small-sided, fast flowing football games such as 5v5, 6v6 or 7v7, or Junior/Youth/Grassroots soccer where you do not... Add to Wishlist Touchline Powerflags Spare Touchline Power Flags are a big investment in your refereeing career. Your flags have been designed to give you reliability, strength and ease of use. Reliability: Your flags come with a 24-month guarantee against failure. A very small caveat: you... Add to Wishlist
dclm_baseline
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Thursday, April 13, 2017 Vaccinations: Yet Another Attempt at Eugenics? Since my father was in the Navy, there was never any question as to whether or not I would be vaccinated. It was mandatory. Then again, I was born in 1961 when most of the vaccinations now available had not even been created. Over the past several years, I have heard things about vaccinations and their possible links to developmental delays and even death, but having very limited experience with them personally I just thought these were uncommon side effects that could happen with any given drug. Only recently did I learn babies one-day-old are being vaccinated against Hepatitis B, which was my first clue something is wrong with this program. I still had no idea what is contained in the needles being injected into our veins, but who in his right mind vaccinates a newborn baby against a sexually-transmitted disease? But it was the following documentary that suggested to me there may be a far more nefarious motive behind the countless shots we are giving children who are just beginning to form the developmental skills that are imperative in life: The astronomical rate of autism in black males had the word "Tuskegee" screaming through my mind. What in hell is the CDC doing? While the film spends a great deal of time talking about the pharmaceutical industry and the profit motive (which of course is a legitimate argument), I see something else. Let us review the definition of "eugenics": Now, for parents who think they are simply improving their child's immune system, let us look at what they are unwittingly injecting into their child's bloodstream. Glyphosate (weed killer): And, my personal favorite, fetal lung tissue: Is anyone else seeing a problem here?  More Links:
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Jamaica # Contents ## Plan Your Trip ### Welcome to Jamaica ### Jamaica's Top 15 ### Need to Know ### If You Like... ### Month by Month ### Itineraries ### Eat & Drink Like a Local ### Outdoor Activities ### Regions at a Glance ## On The Road ### Kingston, Blue Mountains & the Southeast Coast #### Castleton Gardens #### Bull Bay #### Port Royal #### Hellshire Beach Recreation Area #### Portland Bight Protected Area #### Spanish Town #### May Pen & Around #### Irish Town #### Newcastle #### Holywell Recreation Area #### Section & Clydesdale #### Gordon Town & Guava Ridge #### Mavis Bank #### Hagley Gap & Penlyne Castle #### Blue Mountain Peak #### Yallahs & Around #### Morant Bay #### Retreat #### Bath ### Ocho Rios, Port Antonio & the North Coast #### Reggae Beach to Boscobel Beach #### Oracabessa #### Galina Point & Little Bay #### Brimmer Hall #### Faith's Pen #### Mammee Bay #### St Ann's Bay #### Priory & Around #### Runaway Bay #### Discovery Bay #### Brown's Town #### Nine Mile #### Port Antonio to Fairy Hill #### Boston Bay #### Long Bay #### Reach Falls #### Manchioneal #### Moore Town #### Port Antonio to Buff Bay #### Charles Town #### Annotto Bay #### Robin's Bay ### Montego Bay & Northwest Coast #### Ironshore & Rose Hall #### Falmouth #### Martha Brae #### Glistening Waters #### Duncans #### Rio Bueno #### Lethe #### Rocklands Bird Feeding Station #### Good Hope Estate #### Windsor ### Negril & West Coast #### Green Island Harbour #### Lucea #### Mayfield Falls #### Little Bay & Around #### Frome #### Roaring River & Blue Hole #### Savanna-la-Mar ### South Coast & Central Highlands #### Bluefields & Belmont #### Black River #### Middle Quarters #### Santa Cruz #### Maggotty #### Appleton Rum Estate #### YS Falls #### Accompong #### Troy & Around #### Christiana #### Mandeville #### Shooter's Hill #### Mile Gully & Around #### Treasure Beach #### Lover's Leap #### Alligator Pond ## Understand ### Understand Jamaica ### Jamaica Today ### Jamaican Culture ### Jamaican Landscapes ## Survive ### Directory AZ #### Accommodations #### Children #### Climate #### Customs Regulations #### Electricity #### Embassies & Consulates #### Gay & Lesbian Travelers #### Health #### Internet Access #### Internet Resources #### Legal Matters #### Maps #### Money #### Opening Hours #### Safe Travel #### Telephone #### Time #### Toilets #### Tourist Information #### Travelers with Disabilities #### Visas #### Women Travelers #### Work ### Transportation #### Getting There & Away #### Entering the Country #### Air #### Sea #### Getting Around #### Air #### Bicycle #### Bus & Public Transportation #### Car & Motorcycle #### Hitchhiking #### Local Transportation ## Table of Contents ### Behind the Scenes ### Our Writers # Welcome to Jamaica Jamaica has long been a jewel in the Caribbean tourism industry crown, but there's far more to discover than just beaches and all-inclusive resorts. ### Jah's Garden Ask any expat Jamaican what they miss about their island, and the answer is inevitably the landscape itself, that great green garden that constitutes one of the most beautiful islands of the Caribbean. Jamaica begins with crystalline waters flowing over gardens of coral, lapping onto soft sandy beaches, then rising past red soil and lush banana groves into sheer mountains. This is powerfully beautiful country, captivating to the eyes and soul. Jamaican culture can be a daunting subject for foreigners to understand, but ultimately it's a matter of appreciating this land and how its cyclical rhythms set the pace of so much island life. ### Adventure Playground Jamaica cries out to be explored – underwater, on hikes, river-bound with a raft, underground with a lamp strapped to your head, or on the road by car or bicycle. Getting away from the (admittedly beautiful) beaches allows you to see sides of the island that many tourists miss. We want to stress: outdoor activities in Jamaica hardly require you to be as fit as Usain Bolt. There's no physical effort involved when you raft (someone else poles), and even folks in moderate health can accomplish the country's most famous hike through the lush mountains to the top of Blue Mountain Peak. ### Island Riddims With Bob Marley, Jamaica gifted us the first global superstar from the developing world. But he didn't spring from nowhere – this tiny island has musical roots that reach back to the folk songs of West Africa and forward to the electronic beats of contemporary dancehall. Simply put, Jamaica is a musical powerhouse, a fact reflected not just in the bass of the omnipresent sound systems, but in the lyricism of the patois language and the gospel sounds from the island's many churches. Music is life in Jamaica, and you'll soon find yourself swaying along with it. ### Caribbean Flavors Like many aspects of Jamaica culture, the food is a creole, born somewhere between the Old and New Worlds. African spice rubs have evolved into delicious jerk, while yam, rice and plantain form the basis of rich stews and the fish that abound in local waters. Throw in the astounding array of tropical fruits that seem to drip from the trees, washed down with a shot of rum, and you can see (and taste) how the Jamaican cultural story retains its original voice whilst adapting to the setting – and of course, rhythms – of the Caribbean. ## Why I Love Jamaica JIM RICHARDSON/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC/GETTY IMAGES By Paul Clammer, Author Before visiting Jamaica, I hadn't realized my preconceptions of the country were firmly out of date – somewhere between the troubles of the 1970s and Bob Marley's last LP. Touching down for the first time, the scales fell from my eyes. I've rarely been to a country so viscerally alive (Kingston dancehall street parties have to be experienced to be believed) and so achingly beautiful: just how many waterfalls hidden in rainforests can one country have? Smooth like rum and hot like a spicy plate of jerk, Jamaica ensnared me instantly. The media might call it dangerous, but the worst crime you're likely to encounter is having your heart stolen. # Jamaica's Top 15 ### Top Experiences ### Reggae Grooves SHELBY SOBLICK/GETTY IMAGES If there's any cultural trend that defines Jamaica to the rest of the world, it's reggae music – quite literally the soundtrack of the island. The reggae calendar is dominated by two huge events that celebrate the country's love of 'riddims,' both worth planning your trip around – Rebel Salute held every January in St Ann, and then Reggae Sumfest, held in Montego Bay in the middle of the broiling Jamaican summer. Break out a sweat amid the throbbing mass of bodies and the nonstop dancing. ### Top Experiences ### Best Beaches MARK BASSETT/ALAMY Jamaica's beach experiences are as varied as the island's topography. The tiny, delicate Lime Cay, only reachable by boat from Port Royal, is perfect for snorkeling and picnics. Hellshire Beach heaves with Kingstonians and reverberates with loud music, its wooden shacks doing a roaring trade in fried fish. The north coast's Winnifred Beach draws the locals with its azure waters and weekend parties, while Negril's Seven Mile Beach is criss-crossed by jet-ski riders, and its long crescent of white sand lined with the bodies of sun worshippers. ### Top Experiences ### Climbing Blue Mountain Peak IAN CUMMING/GETTY IMAGES A night hike to reach Jamaica's highest point by sunrise, your path lit by the sparks of myriad fireflies, is an experience unlike any other. As you climb, the vegetation becomes less and less tropical, until you're hiking amid stunted trees draped with old man's beard (lichen) and giant ferns. In the pre-dawn cold at the summit, you wait in rapt silence as the first rays of the sun wash over the densely forested mountain peaks all around you, illuminating the distant coffee plantations and Cuba beyond. ### Top Experiences ### Kingston Nightlife CHRISTOPHER PILLITZ/GETTY IMAGES Whether you're attending a nightclub or a street dance, expect a sweaty, lively, no-holds-barred event. Dress up to the nines and follow the locals' lead. At a street dance, two giant speakers are placed facing each other, the street pounding with the bass, while nightclubs provide a similar indoor experience. Expect to be pulled into the melee as the locals will want to see how well you can dance, and bump and grind the best you can; the dancing will be some of the most explicit you'll ever see. ### Top Experiences ### Negril MICHAEL LAWRENCE/GETTY IMAGES So you've walked on the snowy sands of Negril's Seven Mile Beach, wandered past the nude sunbathers, seen the sun sink behind the cliffs, plunged into the ocean to scrub your soul and fended off all the hustlers. How about topping off all of these experiences by donning some scuba gear, getting PADI-certified and watching sea turtles dance their slow ballet in the cerulean waters of Jamaica's westernmost resort? If a full aqualung isn't your thing, just get your snorkel on amid the darting rainbow-colored fish. ### Top Experiences ### Reach Falls RICK ELKINS/GETTY IMAGES On Jamaica's east coast, past stretches of jungle and beach that are completely off the radar of most tourists, you'll find, up in the hills, one of Jamaica's most beautiful waterfalls – and this is an island with a lot of beautiful waterfalls. Hire a guide (you'll need one, trust us) and clamber up slippery rocks, over neon-green moss and into cool mountain pools of the freshest spring water. In some areas you can dive under watery tunnels and through blizzards of snowy-white cascading foam. ### Top Experiences ### Bob Marley Museum, Kingston DOUG PEARSON/GETTY IMAGES Marley's creaky home is crammed with memorabilia, but the visitor is drawn to his untouched bedroom, adorned with objects of spiritual significance to the artist, the small kitchen where he cooked I-tal food, the hammock in which he lay to seek inspiration from the distant mountains, and the room riddled with bullet holes, where he and his wife almost died in an assassination attempt. The intimate surrounds and modest personal effects speak eloquently of Marley's turbulent life. ### Top Experiences ### The Perfect Hotel in Treasure Beach MATTHEW WAKEM/GETTY IMAGES The greatest, most interesting variation of accommodations in Jamaica can be found in Treasure Beach, on Jamaica's south coast. Here, instead of huge all-inclusive resorts, you'll find quiet, friendly guest houses; artsy enclaves dreamed up by theater set designers; Rasta retreats favored by budget backpackers and private villas that are some of the classiest, most elegant luxury residences in the country. Aside from beds and bathrooms, some places offer interesting extras such as cooking classes, rooftop yoga, farm-to-table banquets and movie nights. ### Top Experiences ### Rafting the Rio Grande No less a celebrity then Errol Flynn started the habit of sending discerning tourists on romantic, moonlit rafting trips through the Rio Grande Valley, from Berridale to Rafter's Rest at St Margaret's Bay. These days the experience isn't quite as exclusive as it was when Mr Flynn was running the show – the Rio Grande rafting trips are actually quite affordable as Jamaican tourism activities go – but if the moon is full, you can still pole onto the waters, which turn silver and unspeakably romantic. ### Top Experiences ### Appleton Rum Estate TRAVELSTOCK44/ALAMY Red Stripe is the alcohol everyone associates with Jamaica, but you may find that rum, the local spirit, provides a more diverse boozing experience. We're not saying Appleton produces the best rum on the island, but it is by far the most commonly available, bottled as several different varieties, and you can sample all these examples of the firewater at the Appleton Rum Estate in the Central Highlands. A lot of rum is served, so don't expect to accomplish much else on one of these day trips! ### Top Experiences ### Cockpit Country CHRISTOPHER P. BAKER/GETTY IMAGES The Cockpit Country of the island's interior is some of the most rugged terrain throughout the Caribbean, a series of jungle-clad round hills intersected by powerfully deep and sheer valleys. The rains gather in these mountains and the water percolates through the rocks, creating a Swiss cheese of sinkholes and caves. You can hike around the edges of Cockpit Country on old roads or forest paths, but to get the full wilderness experience hire a guide and tackle the hot, tough, perennially overgrown Troy-Windsor trail. ### Top Experiences ### Crocodile-spotting in Black River Great Morass STUART DEE/GETTY IMAGES This is one of our favorite ways of exploring wild Jamaica: setting off by boat in the Black River Great Morass, gliding past spidery mangroves and trees bearded with Spanish moss, whilst white egrets flap overhead. Your tour guide may tell you about the local women who sell bags of spicy 'swimp' (shrimp) on the riverside, and point to a beautiful, grinning American crocodile, cruising by. ### Top Experiences ### Maroon Culture ROBERT HARDING WORLD IMAGERY/ALAMY The mysticism of Jamaican culture springs vividly to life in the Maroon settlements where escaped African slaves doggedly resisted the British colonizers in the 17th and 18th centuries and ultimately won their autonomy. Still protected by a 1739 treaty, the Maroons of Accompong, Moore Town and Charles Town proudly preserve their old way of life and locals will happily show you around where land is community-owned, bush medicine is still practiced, old Maroon trails in the hills can be still be hiked. ### Top Experiences ### Sipping Coffee in Mandeville MONTY RAKUSEN/GETTY IMAGES Mandeville is the fifth-largest city on the island and the unofficial capital of the cool Central Highlands. This is an area that has been settled by many retired Jamaicans who have made their fortunes overseas, as well as many Western volunteers and aid-agency workers. As such, Mandeville has a cosmopolitan feel for a town of its size. Rub shoulders with the local intelligentsia at the Bloomfield Great House, which serves excellent pub fare, and sip some locally grown coffee as the mountain mists are dispelled by the golden sunlight. ### Top Experiences ### Playing Pirates at Port Royal ANTHONY PIDGEON/GETTY IMAGES The sleepy fishing village of Port Royal only hints at past glories that made it pirate capital of the Caribbean and 'the wickedest city on Earth.' Stroll in the footsteps of pirate Sir Henry Morgan along the battlements of Fort Charles, still lined with cannons to repel the invaders; become disorientated inside the Giddy House artillery store, tipped at a jaunty angle; or admire the treasures in the Maritime Museum, rescued from the deep after two thirds of the town sank beneath the waves in the monstrous 1692 earthquake. # Need to Know ### Currency Jamaican dollar (J$) and US dollar (US$) ### Language English and patois (pah- _twa_ ) ### Visas Not required for American, Canadian, UK, EU, Australian and Japanese citizens for stays of up to 90 days. ### Money ATMs, banks and moneychangers widely available in large cities, rarer in rural areas. US dollars (US$) preferred currency at larger hotels, resorts and restaurants. ### Cell Phones US phones must be set to roaming. Local SIM cards work in unlocked phones for most other countries. ### Time Eastern Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus five hours) ### When to Go #### High Season _(Dec–Mar)_ AExpect sunny, warm days, especially on the coast. Little rainfall, except in Port Antonio and the northeast. AAt night it can become chilly, particularly in the mountains. #### Shoulder Season _(Apr & May)_ AGood time to visit; weather is still pretty dry (again, except in Port Antonio). ARates drop for accommodations. AFar fewer tourists, especially in the big resorts/cruise ports. #### Low Season _(Jun–Nov)_ ASporadic heavy rainfall across the island, except the south coast. AHeavy storms, including hurricanes, gear up August to October. AMany of Jamaica's best festivals happen in midsummer. ### Useful Websites **Lonely Planet** (www.lonelyplanet.com/jamaica) Succinct summaries on travel in Jamaica, plus the popular Thorn Tree bulletin board. **Jamaica National Heritage Trust** (www.jnht.com) Excellent guide to Jamaica's history and heritage buildings. **Jamaica Gleaner** (www.jamaica-gleaner.com) The island's most reliable newspaper. **Visit Jamaica** (www.visitjamaica.com) The tourist board's version of Jamaica. Listing information may be outdated. ### Important Numbers Jamaica's country code is 876, which is dropped if dialing in the country. ### Exchange Rates ### Daily Costs ##### **Budget:** ##### **less than US$100** AEverything is cheaper outside Kingston, Montego Bay, Negril and Ocho Rios Aplate of jerk: US$3.50 Aroute taxi fare: US$1-2 ADouble rooms: US$50 ##### **Midrange:** ##### **US$100–300** Aadmission to major attractions: US$20 Ashort taxi ride: US$20 AMeal at mid-range restaurant: $20 AShare villas to score luxury rooms for midrange rates ##### **Top end:** ##### **more than US$300** APrivate taxis for transport AFine dining: from US$30 ALuxury accommodations: from US$200 ### Opening Hours Opening hours vary throughout the year. We've provided high-season opening hours; hours will generally decrease in the shoulder and low seasons, with the hours of restaurants, bars and clubs being particularly variable. **Banks** 8.30am–1.30pm and 3.30pm–4.30pm Monday to Friday **Restaurants** noon–2.30pm and 7.30pm–midnight **Cafes** 7.30am–8pm **Bars and Clubs** 10pm–4am **Shops** 9am–1pm and 4pm–8pm Monday to Saturday ### Arriving in Jamaica Donald Sangster International Airport (Montego Bay) Taxis are US$10 to US$20 to downtown Montego Bay, US$80 to US$100 to Negril, US$100 to US$120 to Treasure Beach. Route taxis run from near the gas station at the airport entrance to the Hip Strip (J$100). Norman Manley International Airport (Kingston) Taxis are US$30 to US$35 to New Kingston. Bus 98, opposite the arrivals hall, runs to Kingston Pde (J$100). ### Getting Around Public transportation in Jamaica consists of buses, minibuses and route taxis; they run between Kingston and every point on the island. **Bus** Cheap travel between towns, but often overcrowded and dangerously driven. More expensive and reliable scheduled coaches also available. **Car** Useful for traveling at your own pace, or for visiting regions with minimal public transportation. Cars can be hired in every town or city. Drive on the left. **Route taxi** Run set routes within and between nearby towns and cities. Cheap and convenient. # If You Like... ## Diving & Snorkeling Major dive centers are concentrated on the northwest coast; snorkeling opportunities can be found almost anywhere. Dive or snorkel and you'll soon discover a plethora of vibrant small fish and good visibility. Montego Bay It gets green points due to protected waters at Montego Bay Marine Park & Bogue Lagoon Ironshore Shares operators with Montego Bay. Sights such as The Point and the underwater tunnel at Widowmakers Cave are highlights Negril The calm waters that characterize Negril make it a good place for newbies seeking scuba certification Ocho Rios A reef stretches from Ocho Rios to Galina Point and makes for fine diving and snorkeling expeditions ## Music Jamaica is per capita one of the most musically influential nations in the world. From local sound-system parties to international festivals, beats and bass are always in the background here. Kingston parties Downtown Kingston's sound-system parties are the stuff of legend, with the brashest dancehall on the streets Reggae Sumfest The world's definitive reggae experience features both the best of old sweet sounds and dancehall's raucous 'riddims' Rebel Salute (www.rebelsaluteja.com) Held on the north coast in January, this is the biggest roots reggae festival in Jamaica Alpha Live! Spot upcoming Kingston talent at weekly open bands sessions at the most musically-influential boys' school on the island. ## Historic Sites Jamaica's complex story can be explored in a variety of ways, from its beautiful colonial architecture to community tourism projects recounting history from the bottom up. Falmouth ( %617-1060; www.falmouthjamaica.org; 9 King St) This friendly little town on the north coast boasts the greatest concentration of historic buildings in all Jamaica Port Royal Just a skip away from Kingston is this old haven of pirates and streets of Georgian architecture Outameni A fantastically comprehensive museum and multimedia and dramatic production that examines the wide sweep of Jamaican history and ethnicities Accompong The isolated outpost of the living Maroons, descendants of escaped slaves who have retained deep African cultural roots ## Wildlife Jamaica is unexpectedly rich in wildlife, from American crocodiles and a diverse, multihued bird population, to the marine fauna, including dolphins and sea turtles, that inhabits the surrounding waters. Black River Great Morass Nothing makes a boat trip into a Jurassic-looking swamp cooler than dozens of prehistoric-looking crocodiles Windsor birding Head into the daunting jungles of craggy Cockpit Country with trained ornithologists in search of birdlife Rocklands Bird Feeding Station In Anchovy, this quirky grassroots tourism project is for birders who want to catch sight of Jamaica's hummingbirds Canoe Valley Wetland A series of isolated, lonely roads lead to this lovely window onto Eden, where jungle vines frame a pool sometimes frequented by manatees ## Food & Drink When home is a garden island populated by a cultural mélange of Africans, Chinese, Indians, Spanish and English, you should probably expect food to evolve in some interesting ways. Boston Bay The supposed birthplace of jerk, Jamaica's most famous spice rub, is the best place to sample it Appleton Rum Estate Sip the strong stuff in the Central Highlands and realize how much flavor rocket fuel can have Fine Kingston dining The nation's capital is the place to sample haute Caribbean cuisine Blue Mountain coffee Take a 'bean to cup' tour of the plantations above Kingston that grow some of the world's most exclusive coffee ## Waterfalls & Rivers Jamaica's rivers have historically been the country's most important arterials. Today, they're also a playground for tourists, visiting the Caribbean's most dramatic waterfalls. YS Falls Deeply secluded in St Elizabeth parish, you'd be forgiven for thinking YS Falls emerged out of Eden Martha Brae River Be gently poled down this emerald-green tunnel, a silent riverine paradise close to MoBay Reach Falls These tall falls, which cascade through pools into lush jungle, may be the most beautiful in Jamaica Dunn's River Falls They may be slightly overcrowded, but it's still tons of fun to clamber up these slippery falls # Month by Month Top Events **Fi Wi Sinting** , February **Jamaica Carnival** , February **Boys & Girls Championships**, March **Calabash International Literary Festival** , May **Reggae Sumfest** , July ## January January is prime tourist season, when the rains are few and the weather is pleasantly sunny and warm. ### 3Rebel Salute The biggest Roots Reggae concert in Jamaica goes down on the second Saturday in January at Richmond Estate in St Ann on the north coast. Details at www.rebelsaluteja.com ### 3Air Jamaica Jazz & Blues Festival Locally and internationally acclaimed artists perform a variety of musical genres in a splendid outdoor setting near Rose Hall, Montego Bay. Held in the last week of January. Details at www.jamaicajazzandblues.com ## February The weather continues to be dry and the sun continues to shine as some of the important cultural festivals on the island occur in the east. ### 2Fi Wi Sinting This festival (the name means 'It is ours') has grown into the largest celebration of Jamaica's African heritage, with music, crafts and food, Jonkanoo dancing, mentos music and storytelling. Held in Hope Bay, Portland parish. Details at www.fiwisinting.com ### 2Jamaica Carnival This carnival draws thousands of costumed revelers to the streets of Kingston, MoBay and Ochi. Sometimes spills over into March. Details at www.bacchanaljamaica.com ## March You may find Jamaica less crowded, yet still blessed with good weather, as the high tourism season comes to an end. In the capital, thoughts turn to getting fit. ### Boys & Girls Championships Held during the last week before Easter, this century-old four-day event is a crown jewel of Jamaican athletics. Around 30,000 spectators (and talent scouts), crowd the national stadium to try to spot the next Usain Bolt. Details at www.issasports.com ### Kingston City Run In the first weekend of March, Kingston straps on its running shoes and takes part in the popular charity-fundraising Kingston City Run. Details at www.kingstoncityrun.com ## April While this is the beginning of the Jamaican shoulder season, the weather stays largely dry even as the crowds, and accommodations rates, start to plummet. ### 5Trelawny Yam Festival In ruggedly beautiful Albert Town: yam-balancing races, best-dressed goat and donkey, the crowning of the Yam King and Queen – how can you resist? Perhaps the most idiosyncratic, unique festival on an island full of 'em. Details at www.stea.net. ## May The rainy season really gears up in May, although things stay dry in the south for the nation's top literary festival. ### 2Calabash International Literary Festival This innovative literary festival draws some of the best creative voices from Jamaica, plus highly touted international intelligentsia, to Treasure Beach. Details at www.calabashfestival.org ### 5Jamaica Observer Food Awards The venerable _Observer'_ s affair is the Caribbean's most prestigious culinary event. International talent and attention turn towards Kingston, where local restaurateurs bring their top game to the kitchen. Details at www.jamaicaobserver.com/foodawards ## June A soupy combination of heat and humidity from the rains begins to take hold, but sea breezes on the coast and mountain chill in the interior keep things fresh. ### 2Caribbean Fashion Week You may not be able to access some of the most exclusive tents here, but the vibe of Caribbean Fashion Week can be felt all across Uptown and the posher suburbs of Kingston. Details at www.caribbeanfashionweek.com ## July Phew. It's hot. And not just the weather: one of the island's best music festivals heats up the events calendar. The rainy season continues. ### 3Reggae Sumfest The big mama of all reggae festivals, held in late July in Montego Bay, this event brings top acts together for an unforgettable party. Even if you're not attending, you're attending – the festivities tend to take over MoBay. Details at www.reggaesumfeset.com ## August It's as hot as Jamaica gets, and about as humid too. In fact, the rains may be coalescing into ominous storm clouds. Yet the celebrations on the island aren't slowing down. ### 2Independence Day August 6 marks Jamaica's independence from the British Empire, and occurs with no small fanfare and delivery of dramatic speeches, especially in the Kingston area. Celebrations mark the event island-wide. ## October Now the rains are coming in hard, and there may be hurricanes gathering off the coast. On the plus side, accommodations run dirt cheap. ### 6Jamaica Coffee Festival Thousands of coffee lovers converge on the spacious lawns of Devon House in Kingston during the first week of October to slurp up Jamaica's world-famous coffee in an orgy of beverages, liqueurs, ice cream, cigars and classic Jamaican chow. ## November The rains are beginning to slacken off, although the northeast is still getting drenched. This is the end of low-season rates. ### 5Restaurant Week Jamaican restaurant week has been building over the years, and organizers clearly hope it will grow in international cachet. It shows off the dishes of participating restaurants from Kingston, Ocho Rios and Montego Bay. Details at <http://go-jamaica.com/rw> ## December The weather becomes refreshingly dry again, and resorts start raising their prices accordingly. During Christmas, thousands of Jamaicans fly in from the US, Canada and the UK to spend time with family. ### 3LTM National Pantomime The Jamaican take on social satire is raw, irreverent and amusing, and presented at this annual song-and-dance revue in Kingston from December through January. This is some of the best theater in the Caribbean. Details at www.ltmpantomine.com ### 1National Exhibition Kingston's National Gallery shows works by Jamaica's newcomers and old hands at this biennial display; one of the most anticipated cultural events in the Caribbean. The current cycle hits on even-numbered years. Details at www.natgalja.org.jm # Itineraries ## Montego Bay & Around ### 1 week Start in Montego Bay, the gateway to Jamaica for about 80% of international travelers. Hit Doctor's Cave Beach for water sports and head downtown to Sam Sharpe Sq, taking in the historic architecture and the hustle of a real Jamaican city. Are you exhausted by all that energy, or did it invigorate you? Either way, finish up with a fine meal on the Hip Strip. Spend the next morning relaxing on Montego Bay's beaches and maybe enjoy a cold Red Stripe and plate of jerk for lunch, but don't linger too long. Heading east from MoBay you'll find two great houses: the more (in)famous **Rose Hall** and the more authentic **Greenwood Great House** ; we recommend the latter. Grab lunch on the north coast and relax on the beach before taking a nighttime boating expedition at **Glistening Waters**. The next day give yourself a crash course in Jamaican history with a walking tour of Falmouth and its faded Georgian buildings. Then catch the incredible cultural show at **Outameni**. Finish this itinerary with a rafting trip down the Martha Brae River. ### Itineraries ## Kingston, Blue Mountains & Portland ### 3 weeks Touch down in Kingston for three days of sightseeing, excellent food and rip-roaring nightlife. Don't miss the National Gallery. Take in historic Devon House, enjoying Jamaica's best patties and ice-cream while you're there. Afterwards head up to Bob Marley Museum. After hours, enjoy dinner and live music at Red Bones Blues Cafe, segueing elsewhere into a dancehall party and some of the liveliest nightlife in the Caribbean. For a captivating day trip, visit Port Royal, the earthquake-shattered former haunt of pirates and privateers. Those hills looming over the city are calling, so slip into the Blue Mountains. Enjoy the breathtaking scenery and crisp mountain air from hiking trails in **Blue Mountains–John Crow National Park**. The main event here is making an early-morning ascent of **Blue Mountain Peak** , Jamaica's highest mountain. If you are truly adventurous, whiz down from the highlands on a bicycle tour; if such a trip seems like a bit too much, enjoy a pleasant day seeing how the Caribbean's most prized coffee rises from bean to brewery at the one of several **coffee plantations**. Descend from the Blue Mountains to Portland parish, on the prettiest stretch of the north coast. Walk the atmospheric streets of **Port Antonio** , taking lodging in one of the many intimate spots to the east of town or within the port's atmospheric historic district. East of Port Antonio, you'll find appealing communities with stellar beaches and attractive places to stay. You can explore this terrific stretch of coast quickly or slowly, but it lends itself to some lingering. In the course of, say, five days you could go diving in the **Blue Lagoon** and stay at gorgeous **Kanopi House** , take a visit to Boston Bay, the home of jerk cooking, stop in Manchioneal, a terrific base for visiting the sublime **Reach Falls** , one of the best waterfalls on the island. ### Itineraries ## The Sunny South ### 3 weeks Start your trip in Bluefields, where you'll find some exceptional stretches of beach and the mausoleum of reggae star Peter Tosh. We recommend shacking up in one of the local Rasta-run homestays, where you can begin to slip into the laid-back rhythms of the south coast. Linger at this quiet fishing beach for a day or three, then continue on to Black River, a sleepy port town with lovely historic buildings and vintage hotels. This is the gateway for boats into the mangrove swamps of the **Black River Great Morass** , a gorgeous wetlands where crocodile sightings are common. A trip up the river will take up a day of your time; afterwards visit the Ashton Great House. In the morning head north to Middle Quarters for an unforgettable lunch of pepper shrimp at a crossroads eatery and an afternoon at the lovely **YS Falls**. Wet your whistle at the **Appleton Rum Estate** , then head south to Treasure Beach. Stay awhile in the welcoming embrace of this tight-knit community (folks seem to easily lose a month here). Be sure to take a boat trip to one of the planet's coolest watering holes, the Pelican Bar, perched on stilts on a sandbar 1km out to sea. From Treasure Beach, visit Lover's Leap for an astonishing view of the coastlands. You could spend a day here walking around the sweet pastureland of Back Seaside. Continue along the coast to the fishing village of Alligator Pond. Far from packaged tourism, here you can enjoy traditional village life and unspoiled scenery at its best. You'll also enjoy a seafood feast at a truly extraordinary beachside restaurant, Little Ochie. If you have your own car, preferably a 4WD, and are a confident driver, head east from Alligator Pond on the 'lonely road.' This really is an isolated stretch of road, but you'll find wild, empty beaches here and, after many potholes, Alligator Hole, a small preserve where manatees can be spotted. ### Itineraries ## Ocho Rios & the Central Coast ### 1 week Start this trip in the tourist town of Ocho Rios. Give yourself two days to chill out around Ocho Rios, taking full advantage of the tourist menu of activities, especially **Mystic Mountain** and the amazing **Dunn's River Falls**. Drive along the coast towards Oracabessa to see sights associated with James Bond author Ian Fleming, such as the lovely hotel of Goldeneye; and Galina Point for Noël Coward, whose former estate Firefly is now an excellent museum. Turning back, head past Ocho Rios before stopping in at St Ann's Bay stop to see the Columbus and Marcus Garvey monuments, then on to the **Maima Seville Great House & Heritage Park**, which can be explored on horseback. Now head to Runaway Bay, where you can eat well, sleep well and base yourself for an exploration of the awesome **Green Grotto Caves** before continuing on to Discovery Bay and the simple charms of **Puerto Seco Beach**. ### Itineraries ## A Taste of Cockpit Country ### 1 Week From Montego Bay, head out to the Good Hope Estate, a beautiful great house and working plantation. Enjoy horseback riding, lunch on the terrace and tremendous views. On narrow roads, travel through cane fields on your way to Windsor. Check into a lodge and wake to the sound of birds, then head off to explore Windsor Caves with a Rastafarian guide, or pay a visit to the Windsor Great House to learn about its environmental protection and bird-banding efforts. Get ready for some challenging but rewarding hiking. From Windsor you can hire a guide and walk the old military trail connecting Windsor (in the north) with Troy (in the south)...but be ready for some gnarly trails. Exhausted and exhilarated, head east to Clark's Town, then **Troy**. This part of the journey is made for soaking up the scenery. Continue south and make sure to stop at Accompong, where you can meet Jamaica's remaining Maroons (descendants of escaped slaves). It's possible to get around on this tour via route taxi, but you'll get the most out of it by renting a 4WD. ## Plan Your Trip # Eat & Drink Like a Local One of the best ways to learn about Jamaica is through its food, so why not eat your way around the island? Ackee and saltfish for breakfast, curried goat for lunch and an I-tal vegetarian dinner will teach you more about Jamaica than a month at any all-inclusive resort. Jamaica's tropical climate means good, fresh food abounds throughout the year, but keep an eye out for foodie festivals. ## The Year in Food ### Portland Jerk Festival (July) A celebration of everything smoked and spicy held across Portland parish, the spiritual home of Jamaican jerk. ### Jamaica Coffee Festival (October) Farmers, roasters and baristas alike gather together in Kingston to celebrate everything coffee, from Blue Mountain bean to cup. ### Port Royal Seafood Festival (October) A fisherman's haul of splendid seafood (and music) in Jamaica's old pirate capital, a stone's throw from Kingston. ### Jamaica Restaurant Week (November) Held across Kingston, Montego Bay and Ocho Rios, this is Jamaica's biggest festival of the island's culinary arts. ## Eating in Jamaica ### PRICE RANGES The following price structure is based on the cost of an average meal at a Jamaican restaurant. Watch out for menus adding 16.5% government tax and a further 10% service charge to the bill. A **Budget $** less than US$15 (J$1600) A **Midrange $$** US$15 to US$25 (J$1600 to J$2600) A **Top end $$$** more than US$25 (J$2600) ### Jamaican Favorites **Ackee & saltfish** The Jamaican breakfast of champions. Ackee fruit bears an uncanny resemblance to scrambled eggs when cooked, while the salty, flaky fish adds a savory depth to the pleasing blandness of the ackee. Usually served with johnny cakes and _callaloo_ (a spinach-like vegetable). **Breadkind** A sort of catch-all term for starch accompaniments, which can include yams, breadfruit, _bammy_ (cassava flatbread), _festival_ (sweet fried cornbread), johnny cakes (dumplings) and steamed bananas, among others. While not technically breadkinds, rice and peas (rice and beans) is also a major addition. **Brown stew** Often more of a sauce than a stew, brown stew dishes are a nice combination of savory and sweet (and slightly tangy); it's a good choice for those who don't like hot food. **Curry** All kinds of curry are popular in Jamaica, but goat curry is king, chopped into small bits with meat on the bone. While the curry has Indian roots, it's not as hot as its motherland cuisine. **Escoveitch** Imported from Spain by Spanish Jews, escoveitch is a marinade – most commonly used on fish – made of vinegar, onions, carrots and Scotch bonnet peppers. **Jerk** The island's signature dish, jerk is the name for a tongue-searing marinade and spice rub for meats and fish, and for the method of smoking them slowly in an outdoor pit over a fire of pimento wood for its unique flavor. Every chef has a secret ingredient, but allspice, a dark berry which tastes like a mixture of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg, is essential. **Oxtail** Simmered with butter beans and served with rice, stewed oxtail is a national obsession. **Patties** Delicious meat pies; fillings can include spicy beef, vegetables, fish and shrimp. A Jamaican favorite is a patty sandwich – a patty squeezed between two thick slices of coco bread (a sweet bread baked with coconut milk). Juici Patties and Tastee Patty are reliable national fast food chains selling patties and other Jamaican takeaway dishes. **Rundown chicken** Cooked in spicy coconut milk, and usually enjoyed for breakfast with johnny cakes. Some say the dish is named for the method by which the chicken is caught. **Fish tea** 'Warm up yuh belly' with this favorite local cure-all. Essentially, fish broth. ### Fruits & Vegetables **'All fruits ripe'** A Jamaican expression meaning 'all is well,' which is also the state of Jamaican fruit. This island is a tropical-fruit heaven. Sampling them all and finding your favorites is a noble, healthy and rewarding task. Don't just taste the obvious, like coconut, banana, papaya and mango. Savor your first star apple, soursop, ortanique, naseberry, ugli or tinkin' toe. **I-tal** Thanks to the Rastafarians, Jamaica is vegie-friendly. The I-tal diet (derived from 'vital') has evolved an endless index of no-nos. For instance: no salt, no chemicals, no meat or dairy (the latter is 'white blood'), no alcohol, cigarettes or drugs (ganja doesn't count). Fruits, vegetables, soy, wheat gluten and herbs prevail. Because of the popularity of the I-tal diet many restaurants offer I-tal options on their menus. Popular dishes include eggplant curry, whipped sweet potatoes and steamed vegetables. ## Drinks ### Nonalcoholic Drinks **Coffee** Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is considered one of the most exotic and expensive coffees in the world. It's relatively mild and light-bodied with a musty, almost woody flavor and its own unmistakable aroma. Most upscale hotels and restaurants serve it as a matter of course. The majority of lesser hotels serve lesser coffees from other parts of the country or – sacrilege! – powdered instant coffee. Be careful if you ask for white coffee (with milk), which Jamaicans interpret to mean 50% hot milk and 50% coffee. **Tea** 'Tea' is a generic Jamaican term for any (usually) hot, nonalcoholic drink, and Jamaicans will make teas of anything. Irish moss is often mixed with rum, milk and spices. Ginger, mint, ganja and even fish are brewed into teas. **Cold Drinks** A Jamaican favorite for cooling off is 'skyjuice,' a shaved-ice cone flavored with sugary fruit syrup and lime juice, sold at streetside stalls. You may also notice 'bellywash,' the local name for limeade. **Ting** A bottled grapefruit soda, Ting is Jamaica's own soft drink, although Pepsi is pretty popular too (Coca Cola is surprisingly difficult to find). **Coconut water** Sold straight from the nut from streetside vendors, along with its white 'jelly.' **Roots tonics** Made from the roots of plants such as raw moon bush, cola bark, sarsaparilla and dandelion, roots tonics are widely available in small shops, or sold roadside in handmade batches. They taste like dirt...but in a good way. ### Alcoholic Drinks **Rum** Jamaica is proud of its rum – the smooth and dark Appleton rum is the most celebrated brand and is great sipped or mixed. You can even visit the estate where it's made. Wray & Nephew's white overproof rum carries a knockout blow – it may come in a shot glass, but if you down it in one go you're heading home early. Mix it with ginger beer, or even milk ('cow and cane'). **Beer** Red Stripe is Jamaica's famous beer, a crisp and sweet antidote to spicy jerk creations. Real Rock is a slightly heavier, local lager, while Dragon Stout is also popular. Heineken and Guinness are brewed locally under license. ## Self-Catering Food at grocery stores is usually expensive, as many canned and packaged goods are imported. Dirt-cheap fresh fruits, vegetables and spices sell at markets and roadside stalls island-wide. Wash all produce thoroughly! You can always buy fish (and lobster, in season) from local fishermen. ## Cooking Courses & Tours Liven up your kitchen by learning how to cook Jamaican-style. Good places include Treasure Beach Cooking (in Treasure Beach) and Hotel Mocking Bird Hill (near Port Antonio). To travel and taste at the same time, join a specialist culinary tour. Those offered by Jamaica Cultural Enterprises in Kingston and Falmouth Heritage Walks in Falmouth are particularly recommended. Don't forget coffee tasting in the Blue Mountains, and the tours offered by the Appleton Sugar Estate and Rum Factory. ## Plan Your Trip # Outdoor Activities Jamaica might be in the Caribbean, but it offers a lot more than just sunbathing on a beach, from mountain biking and rafting to horse riding and bird-watching. Get a natural high hiking in the mountains or dive below the waves to explore shipwrecks and coral. ## Best of the Best ### Best Wall Dive The Point Swimming amid sharks and shoals along this coral-clad sea-wall. ### Best Wreck Dive The Kathryn Diving alongside the wreck of a minesweeper on a reef near Ocho Rios ### Best Long Hike Blue Mountain Peak Getting to the top just in time for the best sunrise in Jamaica ### Best Short Jaunt Back Seaside Having a stroll amid the low hills and soft breezes near Treasure Beach ### Best River-Rafting Rio Grande Heading up into the jungle clad rain-soaked green tunnels of the eastern parishes ### Best Wildlife-Viewing Black River Great Morass A boat trek from Treasure Beach, past jumping dolphins, up the river by sunning, grinning crocodiles ## Bird-Watching All you need in the field are a good pair of binoculars and a guide to the birds of the island. Expect to pay anywhere from US$25 for an hour's jaunt to US$75 for a good half-day of bird-watching in the bush. ### Where to Go Good spots include: ABlack River Great Morass ABlue Mountains ACockpit Country ANegril Great Morass ARio Grande Valley ### When to Go The best time for bird-watching in Jamaica runs from December to June; at this time of year birds can be expected to show off their best plumage. This is also the dry season, so you're less likely to be drenched in your binoculars. A good online resourse is the Caribbean Birding Trail (www.caribbeanbirdingtrail.org), a conservation and eco-tourism organization that covers the Caribbean Basin. ### Operators Suggested operators include the following: Ann Sutton ( %904-5454; asutton@cwjamaica.com) Based in Marshall's Pen in Mandeville, has been leading major bird tours in Jamaica for more than 30 years. Arrowhead Birding Tours (www.arrowheadbirding.com) Tours of one to eight days from Kingston. Hope Gardens Bird-watching tours on the first Saturday of every month. Hotel Mocking Bird Hill Hotel outside Port Antonio, known for its highly regarded custom birding tours. Rocklands Bird Sanctuary ( %952-2009) Near Montego Bay. ## Caving Does caving technically qualify as being 'outdoors'? Well, it certainly attracts outdoor types. Jamaica is honeycombed with limestone caves and caverns, most of which boast fine stalagmites and stalactites, underground streams and even waterfalls. The Jamaican Caves Organization provides resources for the exploration of caves, sinkholes and underground rivers. The group regularly sends out expeditions to survey the island's caves. Expect to pay a guide at least US$50 per person for a short, half-day exploration of a cave; if you want to go deeper and longer into spelunking territory, rates for guides start at US$70 to US$85 for full-day treks. ### Where to Go You can find guided tours at these caves: AFox Caves, Rio Grande Valley AGreen Grotto, Discovery Bay ARoaring River, Savanna-la-Mar AWindsor Caves, Cockpit Country The following are for advanced cavers: ACoffee River Caves, Troy AGourie Caves, Christiana APeterkin-Rota Caves, St James ## Cycling You can hire bicycles at most major resorts and many smaller guest houses. For anything more serious, you should consider bringing your own mountain or multipurpose bike. You will need sturdy wheels to handle the potholed roads. Check requirements with the airline well in advance. Remember to always have, at a minimum, a flashlight for the front of your bike and reflectors for the rear. If you're in the fixed-gear bicycle camp, note that Jamaica's many hills and unpredictable traffic make riding a 'fixie' extremely difficult. Good online resources include the Jamaican Cycling Federation (www.jamaicacycling.com; 14C Benson Ave, Kingston) and the St Mary's Off-Road Bike Association (SMORBA; %470-8139; www.smorba.com). ### Operators The downhill tour from Hardwar Gap (1700m) in the Blue Mountains is very popular (but not for the fainthearted). Blue Mountain Bicycle ToursCYCLING ( %974-7075; www.bmtoursja.com; 121 Main St, Ocho Rios) Offers pickup from Kingston or Ocho Rios and transfer to the Hardwar Gap. Other tours available around Ocho Rios. Mount Edge B&B ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %944-8151; http://17milepost.com; Newcastle) ### APPROXIMATE DIVING COSTS **1-tank dive** US$50 **2-tank dive** US$95 **Snorkeling excursion** around US$30 **PADI or NAUI certification course** around US$420 **Rental** of masks, fins, snorkels, buoyancy control devices and regulators usually adds an extra $15 ## Diving & Snorkeling Diving has been a part of the Jamaican tourist landscape since the late 1960s, when the first facilities opened in Montego Bay, even then the tourism capital of the island. Thanks to nearby reefs and the MoBay marine park, the northwest coast from Negril to Ocho Rios remains the epicenter of Jamaican diving culture. By law, all dives in Jamaican waters must be guided, and dives are restricted to a depth of 30m. ### Where to Go **Dive Sites:** AAirport Reef ARose Hall Reef AThe Throne **Snorkeling Sites:** ABelmont Beach ASeven Mile Beach (Long Beach) ### When to Go It's best to go from January to April, when the weather is driest and least prone to storms. ### Operators **Montego Bay** ADressel Divers AJamaica Scuba Divers ( %Falmouth 342-617-2500, Negril 957-3039) Based out of Falmouth, Negril and Runaway Bay, but does excursions to MoBay. * Resort Divers **Negril** AMarine Life Divers ASundivers Negril ( %957-4503; www.sundiversnegril.com; Point Village Resort, Long Bay) **Ocho Rios** AGarfield Diving Station AResort Divers ## Fishing Deepwater game fish run year-round through the Cayman Trench, which begins just over 3km from shore on the western side of the island. The waters off Jamaica's north coast are also particularly good for game fishing; an abyss known as 'Marlin Alley' teems with game fish. Charters can be arranged for US$500 to US$550 per half-day or US$900 to US$1200 for a full day through hotels or directly through operators in Montego Bay, Negril, Ocho Rios and Port Antonio. A charter includes captain, tackle, bait and crew. Most charter boats require a 50% deposit. ### When to Go June to August is good for game fishing, but major tournaments go off in Montego Bay in late September and October. ### Operators **Port Antonio** AErrol Flynn Marina **Montego Bay** AMontego Bay Yacht Club ### DON'T WANDER OFF THE TRACK Wherever your walk carries you, be sure to stay on the established trails: the mountainous terrain in Jamaica is too treacherous to go wandering off the track as thick vegetation hides sinkholes and crevasses. You should seek local advice about trail conditions before setting out, and take a good guide even if you know the route. If you're heading into the backcountry, don't forget: the following: Ahiking boots Amosquito netting Abug spray Adrinking water Asunblock ## Hiking Hiking is a great way of seeing the Jamaican interior, but keep in mind it's always best to head into the jungles and the mountains with a guide. It's easy to get lost out here, and it's good to have a contact who can vouch for you with locals. Expect to pay at least US$45 a day for local expertise, and possibly a good deal more to head into particularly difficult terrain. ### Where to Go The most developed area for hiking is in Blue Mountains-John Crow National Park, followed by the Rio Grande Valley in Portland parish, where some of the hikes venture into the Blue and John Crow Mountains. The remote Cockpit Country, with its jungle-clad limestone hills, is perhaps the most dramatic landscape on the island; small community-tourism outfits are growing in that region. ABest Short Trek The one to the summit of Blue Mountain Peak. Reaching it at sunrise is one of the Caribbean's most exhilarating experiences. The view out over the entire island (and as far as Cuba if the day's clear) more than compensates for having to get up at an inhuman hour. ABest Long Trek A trek from Troy, in South Cockpit Country, to the Windsor Caves in North Cockpit Country. This hike traverses some of the most beautiful yet simultaneously difficult terrain in the country. Attempting it without a guide is genuinely risky. A **Best Bird-Walking** Head out in the area around Windsor, in North Cockpit Country, with the biologists of the Windsor Research Centre ( %997-3832; www.cockpitcountry.com; Windsor Great House). It's a fun walk (although you need to be fit) and the accompanying scientific expertise is priceless. ### When to Go It's best to go from January to April, when the weather is driest and least prone to storms. ### Operators Grand Valley ToursHIKING TOURS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-4116, in the USA 401-647-4730; www.portantoniojamaica.com/gvt.html; 12 West St) Treks to Scatter and Fox Caves as well as hikes to Moore Town, Nanny Falls, Nanny Town and along the White River Trail. Jamaica Conservation & Development TrustNATIONAL PARK TRUST ( %960-2848; www.jcdt.org.jm; 29 Dumbarton Ave, Kingston 10) Responsible for the management and supervision of the Blue Mountains-John Crow National Park. Can advise on guides and routes. Original Trails of the MaroonsADVENTURE TOURS ( %475-3046; www.jamaicanmaroons.com) This is an excellent ecotourism collaboration between an expat and the local Accompong community. It offers cultural tours of Accompong, and arranges tours with local guides into the rugged interior of the Cockpit Country. ## Horse Riding Horse riding is a popular attraction, particularly along the coast where you can ride your horses into the sea, or to explore some of the larger plantations. Expect to pay US$60 to US$70 for a two-hour excursion. Reliable operators include: ABraco Stables, near Falmouth AChukka Caribbean Adventure Tours, Ocho Rios AHooves, St Ann's Bay ARhodes Hall Plantation, Negril ## Rafting Errol Flynn first saw the fun of coasting down the river on a raft of bamboo poles lashed together. Today, you sit on a raised seat with padded cushions, while a 'captain' poles you through the washboard shallows and small cataracts. ### Where to Go The best river-rafting in Jamaica is in the mountainous interior of the northwest, near the **Great River** and Martha Brae River. Both of these are within easy day-tripping distance of Montego Bay and Ironshore. On the other side of Jamaica, head to the Rio Grande Valley, which sits within day-trip distance between Kingston and Port Antonio in the east. ### When to Go The best time to go rafting is in the dry season (December to April), when the waters aren't too swollen. If you want a white-water experience, head here in summer. ### Operators Mountain Valley RaftingRAFTING ( %956-4920; Lethe Estate; 1-/2-person US$50/80) For trips along the Great River, in the interior, within easy day-trip distance of Montego Bay and Ironshore. Rafters VillageRAFTING ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %940-6398, 952-0889; www.jamaicarafting.com; 66 Claude Clarke Ave, Montego Bay; per raft 1-2 people US$60) For trips along the Martha Brae, near Falmouth on the northwest coast, within easy day-tripping distance of Montego Bay and Ironshore. Rio Grande ExperienceRAFTING ( %993-5778; Berridale; per raft US$65) For trips along the Rio Grande, in the eastern interior, within day-tripping distance of Port Antonio and, to a lesser extent, Kingston. ## Surfing & Kiteboarding The easterly trade winds bless Jamaica with good summer surfing. The sport's home on the island is undoubtedly the Jamnesia Surf Club ( %750-0103; http://jamnesiasurf.com), which operates a surf camp at Bull Bay, 13km east of Kingston. Boston Bay, 14km east of Port Antonio, has consistent good waves and a small beachside shack from which you can rent boards cheaply. Kiteboarding Jamaica at Glistening Waters near Falmouth is home to Jamaica's nascent kiteboarding scene. # Regions at a Glance ### Kingston, Blue Mountains & the Southeast Coast #### Dance Downtown The musical heart of Jamaica, Kingston never sleeps and you can join a party on any night of the week. Its nightlife ranges from formal nightclubs to sound system parties consisting of giant speakers set up at either end of a street, to stage shows featuring the biggest names in dancehall and reggae. Make sure you come to Downtown parties with a friendly local. #### Pirates & Ruins Visit Port Royal in search of past pirate glory, stroll amid the ruined buildings of Spanish Town, the island's former capital, or take a walking tour through the streets of Downtown Kingston to trace the capital's development. Kingston is a microcosm of the Jamaican experience; understanding the history of this city is reading the history of the nation writ small across the streets of its capital. #### Blue Mountains As well as the island's most popular hike – the night-time climb up to Blue Mountain Peak, the island's highest point – the Blue Mountains offer numerous other trails to suit all abilities. The mountains in the morning afford some of the best wildlife-spotting in Jamaica. ### Regions at a Glance ### Ocho Rios, Port Antonio & North Coast #### Adrenaline Heaven The Ocho Rios area arguably has the most activities packed into a relatively small space in Jamaica. Besides Dunn's River Falls, the country's most popular waterfall, the north coast boasts a mountaintop adventure park, good diving spots, horse-riding adventures, ATV safaris and zipline tours that attract active travelers. #### Scenic Waters Reach Falls is surely one of the most beautiful cascades in the Caribbean. Afterwards, raft up the Rio Grande or relax on lovely, lonely Long Bay. Compared to the crowded northwest coast, fewer tourists explore the outdoors in Portland parish. #### Colonial Jamaica Explore early colonial settlements at Maima Seville Great House in St Ann's Bay, the Windward Maroon stronghold of Moore Town, and the Fi Wi Sinting festival which explores Jamaica's deepest African roots ### Regions at a Glance ### Montego Bay & Northwest Coast #### MoBay Water Sports The beaches in Montego Bay are OK, but there's better sand elsewhere; we really recommend swimming in the Glistening Waters and rafting up the Martha Brae. The infrastructure for guided activities is more developed here than elsewhere on the island. #### Old Falmouth Cheerfully chaotic Falmouth is the most historically preserved town in Jamaica, while near Ironshore there are protected great houses and the excellent history/culture show put on at Outameni. #### Spelunking & Birding Head deep into Cockpit Country, south of Montego Bay, to find fascinating caves and some of the best birding in Jamaica near Windsor and Albert Town. For an easier challenge, you can go on light hill walks in the area near Lethe. ### Regions at a Glance ### Negril & West Coast #### Dawn to Dusk Sure, you can go waterskiing and parasailing and cliff-diving and all that, but a lot of the joy of Negril is at the end of an active day, watching that perfect sunset every evening, and doing nothing at all. #### Sunset Dinners Negril has a good plethora of eating options, from simple, beach-satisfying fare on Long Bay to the classier confines of the fusion and high-end restaurants of the West End. Sunsets off the island's west coast make for some of the most romantic dining experiences in Jamaica. #### Party Negril If you're looking for a beach party in Jamaica, you can't really do much better than Negril. From folks getting 'sedate' on the beach to riproaring, rum-fueled parties, there's a lot to keep you entertained. ### Regions at a Glance ### South Coast & Central Highlands #### Great Outdoors From the extensive cave networks of the Central Highlands to the glorious cascades of YS Falls, and even gentler options like the rolling pastureland near Lover's Leap, there's a lot to keep you outdoors. #### Maroon Culture Accompong, in dramatic South Cockpit Country, is the best place in Jamaica to interact with the Maroons. For intellectual pursuits, hit Treasure Beach during the Calabash International Literary Festival. Many members of the island intelligentsia are attracted to the laid-back resorts in and around Treasure Beach. #### Chillin' Time You know what? Crocodiles are relaxing. Look how laid-back they are, chilling on Black River. Even more relaxing? Picking the perfect Treasure Beach accommodations and losing yourself for days, weeks, months... # Kingston, Blue Mountains & the Southeast Coast #### Castleton Gardens #### Bull Bay #### Port Royal #### Hellshire Beach Recreation Area #### Portland Bight Protected Area #### Spanish Town #### May Pen & Around #### Irish Town #### Newcastle #### Holywell Recreation Area #### Section & Clydesdale #### Gordon Town & Guava Ridge #### Mavis Bank #### Hagley Gap & Penlyne Castle #### Blue Mountain Peak #### Yallahs & Around #### Morant Bay #### Retreat #### Bath # Kingston, Blue Mountains & the Southeast Coast ### Why Go? Kingston is Jamaica undiluted and unadulterated, its raw energy contrasting sharply with the languor of resorts and villages elsewhere on the island. The launching pad for some of the world's most electrifying music, spirited clubs and riotous street-system parties attest that the beat is still alive and bumping. Kingston's cosmopolitan makeup has given rise to fine international dining but its dynamic galleries and museums remain unapologetically Jamaican. Kingston is the ideal base for exploring Jamaica's southeast corner. The region offers the breadth of the Jamaican experience – while there are beaches in easy striking distance of the capital, the island's history is thrown into relief by the faded pirate glory of Port Royal and the grit of Spanish Town, and the majestic, forest-covered Blue Mountains allow you to escape into nature and hike old Maroon trails or taste a gourmet cup at a working coffee plantation. ### When to Go **Feb** Carnival and Reggae Month offer plenty of chances for music and partying. **Nov–Apr** Best time for sightseeing; in December the island's choice lineup of stars appears at Sting. **Dec–Mar & Jul–Sep** Best time for surfing (there are few waves outside these seasons). ### Best Places to Eat AAndy's ASonya's Homestyle Cooking AKushites AMoby Dick AGloria's ATerra Nova Hotel ### Best Places to Stay AReggae Hostel ANeita's Nest AJamnesia Surf Camp AStrawberry Hill ALime Tree Farm AMount Edge B&B ## Kingston Pop 662,400 ## Kingston, Blue Mountains & the Southeast Coast Highlights 1 Delving into the life of Jamaica's most revered contemporary hero at his former home and studio, the Bob Marley Museum 2 Appreciating the vision of Jamaican artists at the internationally acclaimed National Gallery of Jamaica 3 Getting into the groove at the sound-system parties of Weddy Weddy Wednesdays, or Rae Town's Oldies Night 4 Retracing the steps of Blackbeard and Henry Morgan at the former pirate capital of the world, Port Royal 5 Setting out before dawn to experience the greatest high in Jamaica, Blue Mountain Peak 6 Rewarding yourself with a meal, spa treatment or night of romance at one of Jamaica's best hotels, Strawberry Hill near Irish Town 7 Seeing a red berry transformed into the world's best coffee bean at one of the Blue Mountain coffee estates 8 Cycling from Hardwar Gap, quickening your pulse with a rip-roaring descent from the high mountains, through coffee plantations and villages Squeezed between the Blue Mountains and the world's seventh-largest natural harbor, Kingston simultaneously impresses you with its setting and overwhelms you with its size, noise and traffic. This is the island's cultural and economic heart, a lively crucible of music and politics. Like a plate of spicy jerk washed down with a cold Red Stripe beer, a visit to Kingston is essential to taste the rich excitement of modern Jamaica. Kingston is a city of two halves. Downtown is home to historic buildings, the courts, banks, street markets and one of the Caribbean's greatest art museums. Centered around Parade, it has a shabby charm and runs down to a bayside park. To the west lie the ghettoes of Trench Town and Tivoli Gardens, where many houses don't have running water and the rule of law can sometimes be thin at best. By contrast, Uptown holds the city's best hotels and restaurants, largely confined to New Kingston, with its cluster of tall buildings around Emancipation Park. In addition to two of the city's most essential sights, the Bob Marley Museum and Devon House, its diplomatic and commercial status assures Uptown a definite cosmopolitan suaveness. Further out, in the foothills, are Kingston's most exclusive neighborhoods, with expansive views over the capital. Uptown and Downtown seldom mix, but taken together they form a compelling and sometimes chaotic whole. Kingston is certainly never boring – we encourage you to jump right in. ### KINGSTON IN... ### TWO DAYS Visit the **Bob Marley Museum** to see where Jamaica's favorite son rested his natty dreads, and the **National Gallery of Jamaica** for a crash course in Jamaican art; tour beautiful colonial manse **Devon House** ; eat a meal to remember at the **Red Bones Blues Café** or try **Andy's** for the best jerk in town. At night, hit the town for some sweaty after-hours excitement at the **Famous** or **Quad**. ### FOUR DAYS Go to Port Royal for a peek into Jamaica's pirate past, and catch a boat to the tiny island of Lime Cay for sun worship. Soak in some history by taking a stroll around Downtown Kingston and see what influenced the young Bob Marley at the **Trench Town Culture Yard & Village** or what his son Ziggy's up to at **Tuff Gong Recording Studios**. Attend a sound-system party at Weddy Weddy Wednesdays or Rae Town's Oldies Night (Sunday). ### ONE WEEK Head to Hellshire Beach Recreation Area for a Kingstonian beach experience; or head up into the Blue Mountains to commune with nature and maybe trek the tallest peak in Jamaica. History When the English captured Jamaica in 1655, Kingston was known as Hog Crawle, little more than a site for raising pigs. It took an earthquake that leveled nearby Port Royal in 1692 to spur the town planners into action and turn Kingston into a going concern. In the 18th century, Kingston became one of the busiest ports in the western hemisphere, and a key trans-shipment point for the slave trade. By 1872, it became the colony's official capital. In 1907 an earthquake leveled much of the city, sending Kingston's wealthier elements uptown. Downtown became a breeding ground both for the new Rastafarian movement, and labor unions and political parties alike. In the 1960s, the port was expanded and attempts were made to spruce up the waterfront. But as cruise ships docked in Kingston Harbour, the boom also drew in the rural poor, swelling the shantytowns. Unemployment soared, and with it came crime. The fractious 1970s spawned politically sponsored criminal enterprises whose trigger-happy networks still trouble the city. Commerce began to leave Downtown for New Kingston, and the middle class edged away as well. Kingston's troubled image has deterred tourists ever since, but modernization in the 1990s, and the ongoing expansion of the port and other signs of rejuvenation, suggest that the capital's prospects are finally on the up again. 1Sights Kingston 1Sights 1Alpha Boys SchoolB4 2Hope GardensC2 3Lime Cay Picnic ParkA5 4National Heroes ParkB3 5Sculpture ParkC2 6Trench Town Culture YardB3 Trench Town MuseumB3 7Tuff Gong Recording StudiosA3 2Activities, Courses & Tours 8Royal Jamaica Yacht ClubC4 4Sleeping 9City View HotelB1 10Neita's NestB1 11Reggae HostelB3 5Eating 12Andy'sB2 Café Blue/Deli WorksC2 13Cannonball CafėC2 Guilt TripC2 7Shopping 14Grosvenor GalleriesB2 15PatooB1 16Sovereign CentreC2 #### Downtown oNational Gallery of JamaicaART GALLERY ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %guided tours 922-1561; www.natgalja.org.jm; 12 Ocean Blvd; admission J$400, 45min guided tour J$2000; h10am-4:30pm Tue-Thu, to 4pm Fri, to 3pm Sat) The superlative collection of Jamaican art housed by the National Gallery is the finest on the island and should on no account be missed. As well as offering a distinctly Jamaican take on international artistic trends, the collection attests to the vitality of the country's artistic heritage as well as its present. The collection is organized chronologically, introduced by Taíno carvings and traditional 18th-century British landscapes, whose initial beauty belies the fact that their subjects include many slave plantations. Ten galleries represent the Jamaican school, from 1922 to the present. Highlights include the boldly modernist sculptures of Edna Manley, the vibrant 'intuitive' paintings of artists like John Dunkley, David Pottinger and revivalist bishop Mallica 'Kapo' Reynolds. Later galleries chart the course of 'Jamaican art for Jamaicans' up to the recent past, including abstract religious works by Carl Abrahams, Colin Garland's surrealist exercises, ethereal assemblages by David Boxer, and the work of realist Barrington Watson. Temporary exhibition spaces frequently offer up the best of contemporary Jamaican art, including during the superb National Biennial temporary exhibition that takes place on alternate, even-numbered years between mid-December and March. oLiberty HallMUSEUM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %948-8639; http://libertyhall-ioj.org.jm; 76 King St; adult/child J$400/200; h9:30am-4:30pm Mon-Thu, to 3:30pm Fri) At the end of a tree-lined courtyard, decorated with cheerful mosaics and a mural depicting Marcus Garvey, stands Liberty Hall, the headquarters of Garvey's UNIA (United Negro Improvement Association) in the 1930s. The building now contains a quite excellent multimedia museum about the man and his work, which allows the visitor to appreciate Garvey's impact as a founder of pan-Africanism. As in Garvey's day, Liberty Hall has a community outreach program, holding after-school programs for neighborhood children and computer literacy classes. There's also a superb reference library with a focus on Garvey, African history and its diaspora. Institute of JamaicaMUSEUM (JCDT; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %922-0620; www.instituteofjamaica.org.jm; 10-16 East St; adult/child J$400/200) The Institute of Jamaica is the nation's small-scale equivalent of the British Museum or Smithsonian, housed in three separate buildings. The institute hosts permanent and visiting exhibitions. Buy your ticket at the **Natural History Museum** , accessed by a separate entrance around the corner on Tower St. Downstairs there is a small exhibition on natural history and agriculture, while upstairs holds a temporary exhibition space.The small but informative **Museum of Music** on the top floor displays traditional musical instruments and traces the history and development of Jamaica's music, from Kumina, mento and ska to reggae and dancehall. Next door, the **Africa Collection** features weapons, carvings and some exquisite craftwork from various African countries. The temporary exhibitions are often the best, so check online for details. Recent highlights have included 'Jamaica 50', about independence, 'Historic Rastafari' and 'Reggae and Social Change.' The central building also holds the National Library ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.nlj.org.jm), which incorporates the Caribbean's largest repository of books, maps, charts and documents on West Indian history. ParadeSQUARE (William Grant Park; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) William Grant Park, more commonly known as 'Parade,' is the bustling heart of Downtown, and originally hosted a fortress erected in 1694 with guns pointing toward the harbor. The fort was replaced in 1870 by Victoria Park, renamed a century later to honor Black Nationalist and labor leader Sir William Grant. The north and south entrances are watched over by cousins and political rivals Norman Manley ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) and Alexander Bustamante ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ), respectively. A large fountain stands at its center. At North Parade, the distinguished Ward Theatre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.wardtheatrefoundation.com; North Parade), built in 1911, once hosted the annual Boxing Day pantomime – a riotous, irreverent social satire. Sadly, the building has fallen into disrepair over the years, although there are plans to restore it to its former glory. For now, you can admire the cracked sky-blue facade with white trim. The gleaming white edifice facing the park's southeast corner is Kingston Parish Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ), which replaced an older church destroyed in the 1907 earthquake. Note the tomb dating to 1699, the year the original was built. The tomb of Admiral Benbow, commander of the Royal Navy in the West Indies at the turn of the 18th century, is near the high altar, while plaques commemorate soldiers of the colonial West Indian regiments. The crenelated redbrick building facing East Parade is the 1840 Coke Memorial Hall ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ), named after the founder of the Methodist churches in the Caribbean, Thomas Coke. South Parade, packed with street vendor stalls and the blast of reggae, is known as 'Ben Dung Plaza' because passersby have to bend down to buy from hawkers whose goods are displayed on the ground. King St leads from here to the waterfront, and to Edna Manley's Negro Aroused statue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; King St), depicting a crouched black man breaking free from bondage (a replica; the original is in the National Gallery of Jamaica). Coronation MarketMARKET ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) This huge cast-iron-framed hall hosts the biggest market in the English-speaking Caribbean. It holds a special place in Jamaican culture as both 'stomach' of the country, and the old heart of Kingston's commerce; indeed half the country appears to be shopping here (except on Sunday). It's a brilliant and lively show of noise, produce and commerce, but leave your valuables at home and watch out for pickpockets. Downtown Kingston 1Top Sights 1Liberty HallC3 2National Gallery of JamaicaB6 1Sights 3Coke Memorial HallC4 4Coronation MarketA4 5Institute of JamaicaD6 6Jewish SynagogueD2 7Kingston Parish ChurchC4 8National LibraryD6 9Negro Aroused statueB7 10ParadeC4 11RoktowaA5 12Statue of Alexander BustamanteC4 13Statue of Norman ManleyC4 14Ward TheatreC3 5Eating 15Chung'sC6 16Juici PattiesC6 17Moby DickB6 18Swiss StoresC6 7Shopping 19Crafts MarketA6 20Rockers InternationalB2 21Techniques RecordsB3 Tuff Gong Recording StudiosRECORDING STUDIO ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %923-9380; www.tuffgong.com; 220 Marcus Garvey Dr; tour J$700) Tuff Gong is one of the Caribbean's largest and most influential studios. Bob Marley's favorite place to record, it's run by his son Ziggy. Visitors are welcome to take a 45-minute tour with the entire music production process explained, provided you call in advance, but if someone's recording, you may not be allowed to see all sections of the studio. Trench Town Culture YardCOMMUNITY PROJECT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) Trench Town, which began life as a much-prized housing project erected by the British in the 1930s, is widely credited as the birthplace of ska, rocksteady and reggae music. It has been immortalized in numerous reggae songs, not least Bob Marley's 'No Woman No Cry,' the poignant anthem penned by Marley's mentor, Vincent 'Tata' Ford, in a tiny bedroom at what is now the Trench Town Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %859-6741; www.trenchtowncultureyard.com; 6-10 Lower First St; yard & museum J$1000, with guided neighborhood tour J$1500; h8am-6pm). The museum is stocked with Wailers memorabilia, along with the rusted-out carcass of a VW bus that belonged to the Wailers in the 1960s and the small bedroom that was Bob and Rita Marley's home before superstardom. Tours can be rather brisk, with visitors steered towards the gift shop. Also on site is the **Trench Town Development Association** , responsible for transforming the home into a community-based heritage site, and dedicated to promoting social justice and self-reliance. It is allied with the nearby Trench Town Reading Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.trenchtownreadingcentre.com; First St), established to arm the neighborhood youth with knowledge rather than guns. Visits are best arranged in advance – it's safe to visit, but we don't advise wandering elsewhere around Trench Town on your own. National Heroes ParkPARK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) The 30-hectare, oval-shaped National Heroes Park hosts **National Heroes Circle** , dedicated to Jamaica's seven national heroes. Sir Alexander Bustamante, Norman Manley and Marcus Garvey are all buried here, along with symbolic memorials to Nanny, Sam Sharpe, and Paul Bogle and George William Gordon of the 1865 Morant Bay Rebellion. Other celebrated Jamaicans buried here include Michael Manley, 'Crown Prince of Reggae,' Dennis Brown, and 'Miss Lou,' the revered Patois poet Louise Bennett. Alpha Boys SchoolMUSIC SCHOOL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %928-1345, 930-2200; www.alphaboysschool.org; 26 South Camp Rd; donation requested; hFri 4-5pm) Few have had the impact on modern Jamaican music like Alpha Boys School and their students. A nonprofit residential school for at-risk boys, Alpha is where many of Jamaica's musical pioneers in jazz, ska and reggae (from the Skatalites to Yellowman) got their start. The band is still a primary source of local talent, with weekly public performances at their welcome center forming part of the school's 'Alpha Live!' program. The band also play regularly at Devon House. RoktowaART GALLERY ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %922-9229; www.roktowa.org; 8 Pechon St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) This innovative gallery-cum-art-workshop in an old Red Stripe factory is a sprawling warehouse project aimed at rejuvenating the surrounding area and channeling local creativity. Roktowa (aka 'Rock Tower') artists include potters, sculptors and painters, with residencies available for visiting artists. Outreach projects work with local communities, and there are yoga classes and a café. Jewish SynagogueSYNAGOGUE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %922-5931; www.ucija.org; cnr Duke & Charles Sts; hservice 10am Sat) Jamaica's only synagogue is an attractive white building dating from 1912. It's usually locked, though on weekdays there is often someone in the little office around the back who will open it up for a small donation. The hall adjacent to the synagogue houses a well-presented **exhibition** on the history of Jamaica's Jewish community. ### THE YARDS Much of Kingston's growth in recent decades has been in the 'yards' – acres of cheap and substandard housing west of Parade, originally conceived as 'model communities' when built in the 1960s. Most famous among them are Trench Town and Tivoli Gardens. During the 1970s the middle classes debunked to the suburbs, and the JLP (Jamaica Labour Party) and PNP (People's National Party) curried favor among the ghetto constituencies by patronizing area leaders who in turn encouraged their gangs to recruit voters and intimidate political opponents at election time. Today, a large percentage of the gangs' incomes come from drug- and gun-running. The most famous leaders of recent years was Christopher 'Dudus' Coke, who ran Tivoli Gardens and brought a perverse sense of security to the area until the government stormed the ghetto in 2010, with great loss of life. It's easy to tell which party rules behind the stockades: no-nonsense wall murals act as territorial markers. While people from neighboring areas can freely enter the turf of the 'opposition' most of the time, tempers easily flare and it's best to visit with a trusted local (ironically, local security for street parties is usually excellent). The People's Action for Community Transformation (PACT; GOOGLE MAP ) ; %920-0334; www.jamaica-kidz.com/pact; 2-6 Grenada Cres) is a coalition of 26 community-based nongovernmental organizations working to improve life and community relationships in Kingston's inner city. #### Uptown oBob Marley MuseumMUSEUM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-927-9152; www.bobmarley-foundation.com/museum.html; 56 Hope Rd; adult/child J$2000/1000; h9:30am-4pm Mon-Sat) The large, creaky, colonial-era wooden house on Hope Rd, where Bob Marley lived and recorded from 1975 until his death in 1981, is the city's most-visited site. Today the house functions as a tourist attraction, museum and shrine, and much remains as it was in Marley's day. The hour-long tour provides fascinating insights into the reggae superstar's life after moving uptown. His gold and platinum records are there on the walls, alongside Rastafarian religious cloaks, Marley's favorite denim stage shirt, and the Order of Merit presented by the Jamaican government. One room is entirely wallpapered with media clippings from Marley's final tour; another contains a replica of Marley's original record shop, Wail'n Soul'm. Marley's simple bedroom has been left as it was, with his favorite star-shaped guitar by the bed. The former recording studio out back is now an exhibition hall with some wonderful photos of Bob, and a theater, where the tour closes with a 20-minute film. There's another recording studio inside the house, which his sons occasionally use for solo projects. oDevon HouseMUSEUM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %929-6602; www.devonhousejamaica.com; 26 Hope Rd; admission J$700; h9am-4:30pm Tue-Sat) This beautiful colonial house was built in 1881 by George Stiebel, the first black millionaire in Jamaica. Antique lovers will enjoy the visit, whose highlights include some very ornate porcelain chandeliers. Note the trompe l'œil of palms in the entrance foyer and the roundabout chairs, designed to accommodate a man wearing a sword. Amid the grand surroundings, Stiebel even managed to discreetly tuck a gambling room away in the attic. Admission includes a mandatory guided tour. The tree-shaded lawns of Devon House attract Kingstonians who come here to canoodle and read. The popular former carriage house and courtyard are home to the famous Grog Shoppe restaurant, the island's best ice cream and a few quality shops. For Emancipation Day (August 1), Devon House puts on a rousing celebration complete with roots plays, a maypole ritual and a booming sound system. Emancipation ParkPARK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Knutsford Blvd) This grand open space, opened in 2002, is a fine place for a stroll or a spot of people-watching over a takeaway pattie. Check out the controversial statue _Redemption Song,_ by Laura Facey Cooper. It depicts a couple of nude, 3m-tall slaves gazing to the heavens – play art critic and pass approving or prurient comments as you see fit. Uptown Kingston 1Top Sights 1Bob Marley MuseumE2 2Devon HouseC3 1Sights 3Emancipation ParkC5 4King's HouseD1 5Little TheatreD6 6St Andrew Parish ChurchA3 2Activities, Courses & Tours 7Sun Venture ToursA5 4Sleeping 8Eden GardensE4 9Hotel PrestigeE1 10Indies HotelB4 11Jamaica PegasusC5 12Knutsford Court HotelB4 13Mikuzi Guest HouseE3 14Spanish Court HotelD4 15Terra Nova All-Suite HotelB2 5Eating 16AkbarB4 17Chez MariaE2 18Devon House BakeryC3 Devon House I-ScreamC3 Grog ShoppeC3 19Hot PotC5 20KushitesC3 21Red Bones Blues CaféD3 22Sonya's Homestyle CookingB2 23So-So Seafood Bar & GrillB4 24South Avenue GrillB2 25Sweetwood JerkC5 26Taka's East Japanese RestaurantA1 Terra Nova All-Suite HotelB2 6Drinking & Nightlife 27Cuddy'zC4 28DeckD4 29MedusaF1 Red Bones Blues CaféD3 Tracks & RecordsA1 3Entertainment FictionA1 30LimelightA3 31PrivilegeC4 32QuadC4 33Savannah PlazaB2 34Stone Love HQA2 7Shopping 35BooklandC4 36BookophiliaE1 37Contemporary Art CentreF1 38Mutual GalleryD5 39New Kingston Shopping CentreC4 Hope GardensGARDEN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Old Hope Rd; h5:30am-6:30pm) These 18-hectare gardens, replete with manicured grounds, exotic plants and beautiful flowers, date back to 1881 when the government established an experimental garden on the site of the former Hope Estate. The spacious lawns, towering palms and flower-scented walkways provide a lovely respite from the urban jungle. Other attractions include an orchid house, greenhouses, ornamental ponds and a privet-hedge maze. King's HouseNOTABLE BUILDING ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %927-6424; W Kings House Rd; hby appointment 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) F The official residence of the governor-general, the representative of the Queen of England, King's House was initially the home of the Lord Bishop of Jamaica. It was heavily restored after the 1907 earthquake. The dining room contains two particularly impressive full-length portraits of King George III and Queen Charlotte by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Sculpture ParkPARK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 237 Old Hope Rd) F This sculpture garden, on the grounds of the University of Technology, features nine sculptures by acclaimed Caribbean artists. These include Laura Facey's sculpture of a woman's torso stretched in a yoga position, and Basil Watson's _The Compass,_ depicting humanity shaping the environment with the use of technology. St Andrew Parish ChurchCHURCH (Half Way Tree Church; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; cnr Hagley Park & Eastwood Park Rds) This brick church is more popularly known as the 'Half Way Tree Church.' The foundations of the existing church were laid in 1692. The exterior is austere and unremarkable, but the stained-glass windows and organ are definitely worth a peek. Outside, there's a very atmospheric graveyard. ### MARLEY'S GHOST Although Bob Marley (1945–81) was born and buried in Nine Mile in St Ann parish, it was from Kingston that Jamaica's most famous son made his mark on the global music scene. Bob and his mother moved to Trench Town in 1955, at the time a desirable neighborhood and fertile spot for the emerging music scene, where he met Bunny Livingston and Peter Tosh. In 1963 they formed the Wailin' Wailers, scoring a number-one hit with their first single, _Simmer Down_. On signing to Island Records in the early '70s (and becoming Bob Marley and the Wailers) they began to receive international acclaim with albums _Burnin'_ and _Catch a Fire_ , though Peter Tosh and Bunny Wailer quit soon after. In 1975 Marley moved into the house at 56 Hope Rd, now a museum. During the 1970s, Bob, his wife Rita and his manager were shot at Hope Rd by a gang, just before a major concert. Remarkably, everyone survived (and Marley even played at the concert), but afterwards Bob and Rita went into exile in Britain for two years. In 1978 Marley made his legendary homecoming when messages of peace and unity were being all but drowned out by open street warfare. On April 22 he played the 'One Love' peace concert, attended by 100,000 people. During his world tour in 1980 Marley was diagnosed with cancer and died in a Miami hospital eight months later. While some argue that Marley was not the greatest-ever reggae musician, he was the developing world's first global superstar, and there's no denying that his music has touched more people worldwide than many other artists. TTours Jamaica Cultural EnterprisesCULTURAL TOURS ( %540-8570; www.jaculture.com) Very well-respected cultural tours in and around Kingston, including the Blue Mountains. Excellent themed tours include history, food, music and art, either as a group (from US$65 per person) or tailor-made. Sun Venture ToursCITY TOURS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %960-6685, 408-6973; www.sunventuretours.com; 30 Balmoral Ave, Kingston) Offers a city tour of Kingston, starting either at the Bob Marley Museum or Tuff Gong Studios, and incorporating a walking tour of Port Royal and a visit to Devon House (US$65 per person for four people or more). Sun Venture also offers hiking tours of the Blue Mountains and Maroon country, excursions to coffee plantations and more. zFestivals & Events Befitting a Caribbean capital city, Kingston is the site of engaging festivals and events all year round. Jamaica School of Dance Concert SeasonDANCE ( hJan) Creative, Caribbean-themed dancing at the Little Theatre. CarnivalCARNIVAL (www.bacchanaljamaica.com; hFeb) A week of costumed revellers taking to the streets, two carnival camps – Jamaica Carnival and Bacchanal Jamaica – paint- and rum-throwing, parades, all-night parties and live reggae, calypso, and particularly soca. Highlights include **J'Ouvert** , an epic night-long party, and the **Road March** , when the two camps parade through the streets of New Kingston in carnival costume. Boys & Girls ChampionshipsSPORTS (www.issasports.com; National Stadium; hWeek prior to Easter) A highly charged youth athletics contest as scouts from around the world arrive to get a glimpse of future champions. A great atmosphere, as locals fill the stands to overflowing. Kingston on the EdgeART (www.kingstonontheedge.com; hJun) Week-long urban art festival featuring the best of new painting, photography and sculpture, as well as gallery shows, concerts and readings. World Reggae Dance ChampionshipsDANCE (www.jcdc.gov.jm; hAug) The finals of the reggae, dancehall and reggaeton dance competition, with troupes of young dancers battling it out among themselves at the Ranny Williams Entertainment Centre. Caribean HeritagefestCULTURE (www.jcdc.gov.jm; hmid-Oct) A two-day event at the Jamworld Entertainment Complex at Portmore, southwest of Kingston. It features food and crafts fairs, folk theater, traditional dance and drumming, and musical performances. Devon House Christmas FairFAIR ( hDec) Devon House promotes a colorful display of arts, crafts and culinary delights in the week before Christmas. Biennial Art ExhibitionART (www.natgalja.org.jm; hDec-Mar) Exhibition featuring the very best of contemporary Jamaican art, held in even-numbered years. LMT National PantomimePANTOMIME ( hDec) Annual event at the Little Theatre, with traditional Jamaican song and dance, saucy humor and fabulous costumes. 4Sleeping Many lodging options cater more to business travelers than tourists, and rates don't vary much year round. Most hotels are in Uptown, with some of the more luxurious retreats further up in the hills. oReggae HostelHOSTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %920-1596; www.reggaehostel.com; 8 Burlington Ave; dm US$15-30, d US$70; p a i W) Close to Halfway Tree, this excellent hostel has a relaxed, friendly vibe. Dorms are simple with fans, while private rooms (one with its own bathroom) are spacious and have air-con. There's a communal kitchen, patio bar (with Sunday barbecue) and helpful staff. Highly sociable if you're looking for people to hook up with to go to a dancehall street party or weekend beach trip. Mikuzi Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %978-4859, 813-0098; www.mikuzijamaica.com; 5 Upper Montrose Rd; r US$50-80, ste US$90; p a W) Friendly yellow colonial-era guest house with comfortable rooms – all bright colors and funky furnishings, most with kitchenettes. All but the 'backpacker rooms' have air-con. There's a cushion-strewn gazebo in the lush garden for relaxing in. It's just off Hope Rd, a stone's throw from the Bob Marley Museum, and has a sister outfit near Port Antonio. City View HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %969-4009; www.cityviewjamaica.com; Mannings Hill Rd, St Andrew; r incl breakfast US$90; p a W) This family-run pocket of splendor in upper St Andrew offers an intimate experience combined with a panoramic view of Kingston. The five rooms, named after Jamaica's different parishes, feature delightful antique furnishings. The genial hosts treat guests like family. There's a typical Jamaican breakfast (ackee and saltfish, callaloo, dumplings, and fresh fruit). Indies HotelHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %926-2952; www.indieshotel.com; 5 Holborn Rd; s/d US$80/90; p a i) This family-friendly 'home away from home' is highly rated for its cheerful ambience and accommodating atmosphere. Rooms cluster around a green courtyard, but try to take an upstairs room for brighter sunlight. A small restaurant serves economical pizzas and great fish and chips and the attractive patio is a good spot for alfresco dining. Hotel PrestigeHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %927-8244; 70 Sandhurst Cres, Liguanea; s US$55, d J$55-70; p a s) In a quiet residential neighborhood in Liguanea, this renovated hotel is a decent option. The spotlessly kept rooms with their black-and-white tile floors, utility furniture and plastic flowers conjure images of Miami in the 1960s. Some have a private veranda. A large dining terrace shaded by mango trees affords views toward the Blue Mountains. oNeita's NestGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %469-3005; www.neitasnest.com; Stony Hill, Bridgemount; s/d US$80/120; W) A delightful art-filled bed and breakfast tucked up high in Stony Hill and with great views from the terrace of Kingston and the mountains. Cosy rooms and a gracious host who welcomes you into the family make this feel like a perfect retreat away from the city. Dinner is available on request (and is recommended). Moon HillBOUTIQUE HOTEL ( %620-8259; www.moonhilljamaica.com; 5 Roedeen Cl, Jack's Hill; s US$75-90, d US$150-180; p W s) A great combination of seclusion and close proximity to the capital's attractions, this luxurious four-bedroom villa located in the Blue Mountain foothills is ideal for romantic or small-group getaways. The airy bedrooms feature firm queen- and king-size beds; all freshened by a cool breeze from the mountains. The Jamaican and international menu uses fresh produce from the on-site organic garden. Eden GardensHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %946-9981; www.edengardensjamaica.com; 39 Lady Musgrave Rd; r US$140; p a W s) Set amid lush vegetation – a nod to its name – this condo and wellness center complex attracts those who like to mix business with pleasure. Each of the spacious, light rooms comes with fully equipped kitchenette and large desk, while the Therapeutic Spa has a full range of massages and other treatments. Long-stay discounts available. Knutsford Court HotelHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %929-1000; www.knutsfordcourt.com; 16 Chelsea Ave; s US$114-186, d US$148-196, ste US$205; p n a i W s) Agreeable hotel with a garden setting, popular with Jamaican families and businesspeople. The rooms – some with private balconies and work desks – are clean and well appointed. Rates include continental breakfast, served in the Melting Pot Restaurant, which offers exemplary Jamaican fare and room service at other times. oSpanish Court HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %926-0000; www.spanishcourthotel.com; 1 St Lucia Ave; r US$239-245, ste US$282-1212; p a i W s) A favorite with the discerning business elite. Thoroughly modern rooms have Jamaican-designed furtniture and come with iPod docks. Relaxation options include the rooftop pool, gym and a spa with a full range of treatments. The Gallery Café serves a selection of gourmet coffees and snacks, while the restaurant has beautifully presented international and Jamaican dishes. Jamaica PegasusHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %926-3690; www.jamaicapegasus.com; 81 Knutsford Blvd; s/d US$180/204, ste US$276-492; p n a W s) This glitzy 17-story property overlooking Emancipation Park is a long-established feature of the business travel scene. On Wednesday there's poolside happy hour (6pm to 7pm) featuring a complimentary buffet of Jamaican finger foods and rum punch. Rooms were undergoing a refit when we visited – preliminary results looked good. For an unparalleled view, ask for a room facing the mountains. Terra Nova All-Suite HotelHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %926-2211; www.terranovajamaica.com; 17 Waterloo Rd; ste incl breakfast US$265-505; p a i s) Although this colonial mansion dates from 1924, the spacious junior suites here have a great contemporary feel. The suites vary from regular to ultra-luxe, but king-size beds are standard – and thumbs up for the marble bathrooms, some of which have Jacuzzis. The restaurant is the venue for one of the city's top Sunday brunches. 5Eating As in other matters, Kingston is Jamaica's capital of food; it is here that the national cuisine was born and it is here that it continues to thrive and evolve. Let your taste buds run free! Most of the notable eateries, which include international and fusion cuisine, are found in Uptown Kingston, where the culinary adventurer is spoiled for choice. ### PATTY, GLORIOUS PATTY Patties – pastries with spicy beef, chicken, lobster, shrimp, cheese or vegetable filling, often consumed as part of a coco-bread 'sandwich' – are a Jamaican institution. They're cheap (around J$120), filling and delicious, and sold by the Juici Patties, Tastee Patties and Mother's franchises. Juici has an edge over its rivals by not limiting itself to patties; the larger branches serve ultra-filling hominy and peanut porridge for breakfast, and lunch mains such as salt fish with callaloo or cabbage. Try its downtown branch ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; cnr Harbour & King Sts) or the more-upscale Devon House Bakery in Uptown Kingston. #### Downtown Swiss StoresCAFE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; cnr Church & Harbour Sts; meals J$700; hlunch) Pasta, pepperpot soup, Black Forest ham sandwiches and wine inside a welcome bubble of air-con – what more could you ask of a jewelry store! The stools aren't conducive for lazy lingering, but all the items on the small menu are fresh and tasty and the Blue Mountain coffee comes in a cup the size of a soup tureen. Chung'sJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; cnr Mark Lane & Harbour St; meals J$700; hlunch Mon-Fri) In spite of the name, this simple canteen-style place – a favorite of Downtown office workers – serves only Jamaican specialties. Choose your mains, such as stew peas, fried chicken or curry goat, and then either take your overflowing container to the bustling dining area next door or go picnic on the waterfront. oMoby DickJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 3 Orange St; meals J$1100-2000; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat) Don't let the plastic tablecloths fool you, this Muslim-run former sailors' hangout has been popular with besuited lawyers and judges for nearly a century. The curried goat (J$1100) is outstanding, as is the conch version (J$1700) when available, served with roti, rice and salad and washed down with one of the excellent fresh fruit juices. ### UPTOWN QUICK EATS oDevon House BakeryBAKERY ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Devon House; patties from J$200-450; h10am-10pm; v) Those in the know swear by patties served up in this small bakery located next to Devon House I-Scream. We're inclined to agree that they're some of the best in Jamaica. Lobster patty, anyone? An array of tempting cakes and juices is also available at this excellent option for a picnic on the grounds. Café Blue/Deli WorksCAFE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Sovereign Centre, Hope Rd; meals J$700-900; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) Always full of Uptowners with laptops, this bright, air-conditioned cafe serves an array of delicious though not cheap Blue Mountain coffees, as well as cakes, filled bagels and sandwiches. The smoked marlin baguette (J$500) is consistently superb. Next door, you can choose from a number of Jamaican specials (J$500 to J$650), consumed in a lively canteen setting. Cannonball CafėCAFE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.facebook.com/CannonballCafe; Loshusan Shopping Centre, Barbican Rd; meals J$500-700; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; W) Popular and busy cafe with wireless internet, serving excellent Blue Mountain coffee and cakes. Light dishes – quiches, sandwiches and salads – are also on offer here. Also branches at 134 Constant Spring Rd and 20 Barbados Ave. Devon House I-ScreamICE CREAM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Devon House, 26 Hope Rd; scoops J$250; h10am-10pm) Some of the island's best ice cream in over 20 flavours – check out their signature Devon Stout. #### Uptown oHot PotJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 2 Altamont Tce; meals J$500-1000; h7am-4pm) A thoroughly unpretentious restaurant offering unfussy but indisputably delicious Jamaican home-style cooking, with dishes such as ackee and saltfish, escoveitch fish and garlic chicken. Wash it down with a fresh tamarind juice, coconut water or a Red Stripe. Highly recommended. oAndy'sJERK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 49 Mannings Hill Rd; meals J$700; hlunch & dinner) If you're after the best, authentically prepared jerk chicken and pork in Kingston, then Andy's is well worth the travel. This nondescript corner stop gets particularly busy in the evenings, when locals line up for their meats accompanied by fried breadfruit, festival, sweet potato or plantain. oKushitesI-TAL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %375-0642; www.facebook.com/KushitesVegetableCuisine; 11 Phoenix Ave; meals from J$700; hmidday-10pm; v) Vegan and I-tal food in pleasant leafy surroundings, with thick wooden tables and bright fabrics, coupled with an inside 'riad' dining room serving Moroccan-style cuisine. The menu is inventive – try the delicious raw, gluten-free 'pizzas,' washed down with freshly squeezed juice. Sweetwood JerkJERK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Knutsford Blvd; jerk from J$400; hlunch & dinner) This lively jerk center, opposite Pegasus Hotel, is popular with Uptown office staff and gets particularly busy after work. Spicy, flavorful meaty offerings can be enjoyed in the outdoor sitting area facing Emancipation Park. Accompaniments include festival, sweet potato and particularly good fried breadfruit. This is one of the few jerk joints in Jamaica to feature jerk lamb. oSonya's Homestyle CookingJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %968-6267; 17 Central Ave; mains around J$1200; h6:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7:30am-6pm Sat, 8:30am-7pm Sun) A place that's famous for big traditional Jamaican breakfasts, washed down with fresh juices; the Sunday buffet (8:30am to midday) is particularly popular. For lunches and early dinner, there's good pepper pot soup, curry goat, oxtail and beans, stew pork and fry chicken. Guilt TripFUSION ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %977-5130; 20 Barbican Rd; meals J$1600-2500; hdinner) The name alludes to the imaginative, decadent desserts, the unrestrained consumption of which will leave you feeling very indulgent. That's not all: the chef constantly experiments with Caribbean-French fusion cuisine, so you'll be constantly surprised by concoctions like coconut curry sea bass with mango and chestnut salsa, and roast chicken with whiskey sauce. The experience is worth dressing up for. Chez MariaLEBANESE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 7 Hillcrest Ave; meals J$750-1800; hlunch & dinner; v) Whether you sit in the garden beneath the mango tree or grab a table on the front terrace, you'll be treated to fine Lebanese and Italian cuisine. The mezes, notably the hummus, are excellent and are complemented by homemade pita bread. A host of shawarmas and kebabs awaits if you still have an appetite. Alternatively, go for some of the best pizza in town or the outstanding penne ala vodka. So-So Seafood Bar & GrillSEAFOOD ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 4 Chelsea Ave; meals J$1200-2000; hlunch & dinner) A casual place, known for its mellow after-work scene (the bar is good for chilling before your meal), its modest name belies the quality of the menu. The garlic shrimp and stew fish are particularly good, as is the weekly conch soup (Thursday and Friday), and delicious mannish water (miscellaneous goat-part soup) on Sunday. Grog ShoppeJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Devon House; meals J$1500-2500; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat) Lodged in an expansive brick building that used to be the servants' quarters for Devon House, this atmospheric choice has the look and feel of a colonial pub. A separate dining room serves good Jamaican specialties, while the pub menu features burgers, crab cakes and other finger food. South Avenue GrillINTERNATIONAL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 20A South Ave; meals J$1100-2900; hlunch & dinner) Meat-heavy menu of Jamaican and Italian dishes in an attractive open-air setting. The steaks are good but pricey. Formerly known as Gaucho's Grill. Red Bones Blues CaféFUSION ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %978-8262; 1 Argyle Rd; mains US$20-40; hnoon-1am Mon-Fri, from 6pm Sat) This restaurant, bar and live-music venue has long been a beehive of cultural and culinary activity. Inside, the walls are beguilingly bedecked with photographs of jazz and blues legends. The menu offers Jamaican twists on European tastes (callaloo strudel, anyone?) with good fish, pasta and salads. Leave room for the sweet potato pudding! Taka's East Japanese RestaurantJAPANESE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %960-3962; Market Pl, 67 Constant Spring Rd; meals J$2500-4500; hlunch & dinner Wed-Sun, dinner Tue) Part of the upmarket cluster of restaurants known as the Market Place, this Japanese restaurant serves an exquisite selection of authentic, imaginative sushi. Though the menu is fish-heavy, noodle dishes abound and the vegetable tempura hits the spot. The heavily air-conditioned interior will make you glad there's a dress code: no sleeveless shirts or shorts. oTerra Nova All-Suite HotelINTERNATIONAL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %926-2211; 17 Waterloo Rd; Sun brunch J$2500; hlunch & dinner; v) The European menu has hints of the Caribbean as well as Jamaican favorites such as pepperpot soup and grilled snapper. However, the bigger draw for well-heeled Kingstonians is its famous Sunday brunch, comprising an all-you-can-eat buffet. Gorge yourself on curry goat, jerk chicken, pasta salads, ribs and more. The only downside is that there's only so much you can eat! AkbarINDIAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %926-3480; 11 Holborn Rd; mains J$900-2500; hlunch & dinner; v) Kingston's best Indian restaurant draws crowds for its gracious service, garden graced by a fountain, and pricey but well-executed menu that includes tandoori and vegetarian dishes, complemented by excellent Indian breads. Be sure to insist on extra spiciness, if fire's what you crave. Offers a buffet lunch special (J$1500). 6Drinking & Nightlife Kingston is the best town in Jamaica for bar-hopping and clubbing, and you'll never want for after-hours action. Many bars, nightclubs and sound-systems feature regularly scheduled events and theme nights, making it possible to get a groove going every night of the week. For listings, check out the Friday Observer and keep an eye out for flyers advertising one-off events. Drinking and music invariably go hand-in-hand in Kingston though at sound-system parties your choices will be limited to rum, Red Stripe and Guinness. Without question, the high point of Kingston's nightlife is its free outdoor sound-system parties. A raucous combination of block party, dance-offs between neighborhood posses, fashion show and all-out stereo war, sound-system parties can be heard blocks away and go well into the night. They kick off around 11pm, but plan to arrive for 1am when they really get going; things usually shut down at 4am. Sound-system dances are unforgettable cultural experiences. It's perfectly safe to attend street parties, as the neighborhoods are responsible for security and people don't take kindly to violence spoiling the event, but it's best to come with a local and to leave obvious valuables behind. Bars oRed Bones Blues CaféBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.facebook.com/RedbonesBluesCafe; 1 Argyle St; h11am-1am Mon-Fri, 7pm-1am Sat) This could easily become your favorite Kingston spot – it's a hip open-air bar with cool ambience and great music. There are quality live bands throughout the week, including blues, jazz and reggae, showcasing well-chosen local and international talent, as well as regular poetry slams. Oh, and the food is great too. Tracks & RecordsBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %906-3903; www.facebook.com/UBTracks; Market Pl, 67 Constant Spring Rd; h11.30am-11.30pm) Music meets athletics at this doubly-punning sports bar owned by Usain Bolt. The atmosphere is lively, with plenty of drinks and bar food, plus some surprisingly good karaoke, and live music on 'Behind the Screens' Tuesday. DeckBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 14 Trafalgar Rd; hfrom 4:30pm) This cavernous open-air bar, festooned with fishing nets, is a long-standing favorite with the older crowd for its easygoing atmosphere and good bar food. On Fridays things get particularly lively during the ever-popular oldies After-Work Jam. Cuddy'zSPORTS BAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.facebook.com/cuddyzsportsbar; 25 Dominica Dr; hMon-Thu 11:30am-1am; Fri-Sat 11:30am-2am, Sun 1pm-11pm) This hip establishment is the creation of the 'Big Man Inna Cricket,' Courtney Walsh. TVs in each booth and a lively bleachers section with an oversized screen make this a great place to catch the latest football, cricket and baseball games. MedusaBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 96 Hope Rd) The airy upstairs deck makes for relaxing evening drinking and Inclusive Wednesdays (all-you-can-drink for J$1000) are particularly popular with local students. It's behind Treasure Hut Shopping Plaza. Nightclubs FamousCLUB ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %988-8801; www.facebook.com/FamousNightclubJa; Gerbera Ave, Portmore; J$1000; h10pm-4am) Reputedly the largest nightclub in the Caribbean, this superclub and self-styled mecca of dancehall in Portmore has a Coliseum-style dancefloor, huge soundstage and lightshow. Ladies night (free entry) is on Thursday, but on no night consider turning up before midnight. QuadCLUB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %754-7823; www.facebook.com/QuadNightClub; 20-22 Trinidad Tce; admission J$1000; hTue & Thu 4-10pm; Wed, Fri & Sat 4pm-5am) A superclub with four different levels. On the main floor is the more tasteful Spirits Lounge (food available). Every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, two clubs open up: the top-floor Deja Vu Lounge, which draws crowds for an oldies mix; and Club Vision Z, which plays rocking dance beats until 5am. In the basement is Taboo, with 'exotic' dancers. FictionCLUB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %631-8038; Unit 6, Market Pl, 67 Constant Spring Rd; admission J$100; h6pm-4am Mon-Sat) Pretty young things rub shoulders (and not just shoulders) with each other at one of Kingston's most popular elegant new clubs, which wouldn't look out of place in Miami. 3Entertainment Streetside billboards advertise upcoming live concerts and sound system parties. Sports lovers should make their way to Sabina Park or the National Stadium for big events. Sabina ParkSPORTS ( %967-0322; South Camp Rd) _The_ place for cricket in Jamaica. The 30,000-seat arena hosted its first Test match in 1929. The atmosphere during international Tests makes it a must – whether or not you're a fan. National StadiumSPORTS ( %929-4970; Arthur Wint Dr) Big-name concerts, track-and-field events and matches featuring the Reggae Boyz, Jamaica's national football (soccer) team. Little TheatreTHEATER ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %926-6129; www.ltpantomime.com; 4 Tom Redcam Dr) Puts on plays, folk concerts and modern dance throughout the year. The National Dance Theatre Company performs July to August. Pantomime from late December through April. Caymanas ParkSPORTS ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %988-2523; www.caymanaspark.com; Caymanas Dr, Portmore; admission J$150-350; hWed & Sat) The horse races at Caymanas Park in Portmore, one of the best race tracks in the Caribbean (and immortalized in several classic ska songs), make for a lively outing and a real slice of traditional Jamaican life; get a local to explain the complicated betting system. Take buses 17A, 18A, 20A from Half Way Tree.᠎ 7Shopping Kingston has it all, from modern shopping malls to street craft stalls. Good crafts are found Downtown, whereas Devon House is your port of call for specialty shops. Art galleries and souvenir shops are scattered around Uptown, though many are to be found in shopping malls off and along Hope Rd. Two of the largest shopping centers are Sovereign Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 106 Hope Rd) and New Kingston Shopping Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Dominica Dr). PatooSOUVENIRS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Manor Hill Plaza, 184 Constant Spring Rd) Local treasures – Tortuga puddings laced with rum, Busha Brown sauces, ceramic tableware, decorative ornaments and batik sarongs. BooklandBOOKS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 53 Knutsford Blvd) Stock includes a strong selection of titles on Jamaica and the Caribbean, including guidebooks. Good black literature section. BookophiliaBOOKS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 92 Hope Rd) Very good selection of books and magazines. The Blue Mountain coffee and muffin counter makes you want to linger longer. Crafts MarketSOUVENIRS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; cnr Pechon & Port Royal Sts; hMon-Sat) Stall upon stall of wood carvings, bead jewelry, wickerworks, batiks, handbags and Jamaican clothing. Rockers InternationalMUSIC STORE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %922-8015; 135 Orange St) The best pick of reggae music in town, both CDs and LPs. Find your Burning Spear, Horace Andy and John Holt here. Mutual GalleryART GALLERY ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %929-4302; 2 Oxford Rd) Excellent little gallery at the base of North Tower, with constantly changing exhibits of Jamaica's most exciting modern art. Techniques RecordsMUSIC STORE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %967-4367; 99 Orange St) Oldies, dancehall and traditional Jamaican music. Grosvenor GalleriesART GALLERY ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %924-6684; 1 Grosvenor Tce) Excellent contemporary art by exciting new artists. Contemporary Art CentreART GALLERY ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %927-9958; 1 Liguanea Ave) Good selection of contemporary art. Information Dangers & Annoyances Kingston carries a fearful reputation before it, but in practice visitors can safely enjoy the city as long as a few common-sense guidelines are followed. New Kingston and upscale residential areas such as Liguanea and Mona are generally safe for walking, as are most main roads and Downtown. Avoid wandering at night, and stick to main roads where possible. Watch out for pickpockets in market areas. Trench Town, Jones Town, Denham Town and Tivoli Gardens and west of Parade, Downtown, are areas best explored with a local guide. Emergency AmbucareAMBULANCE ( %978-2327) Private ambulance service. Emergency ( %119) Police Headquarters ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %922-9321; 11 East Queen St); Half Way Tree (142 Maxfield Ave, Half Way Tree); Cross Roads (Brentford Rd, Cross Roads) St John AmbulanceAMBULANCE ( %926-7656) Free ambulance services in Kingston. Internet Access Most hotels and plenty of coffeshops provide free wi-fi access. **Digicel** and **LIME** shops offer island-wide USB modems for laptops (from J$3600). Medical Services Andrews Memorial HospitalHOSPITAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %926-7401; 27 Hope Rd) Well-equipped private hospital with well-stocked pharmacy. Liganea Drugs & GardenPHARMACY (134 Old Hope Rd) Uptown pharmacy. Monarch PharmacyPHARMACY ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Sovereign Centre; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm Sun) University HospitalHOSPITAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %927-1620; University of the West Indies campus, Mona) The best, most up-to-date public hospital with 24-hour emergency department. Money Uptown, there are half a dozen banks along Knutsford Blvd and around Halfway Tree. Most banks have foreign-exchange counters as well as 24-hour ATMs. There are also ATMs along Hope Rd, particularly by the shopping malls. Post Post Office ( h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-4pm Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) Main post office ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-922-2120; 13 King St; h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-4pm Fri, 8am-1pm Sat); Half Way Tree ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; 18 Hagley Park Rd) Tourist Information Jamaica Conservation & Development TrustNATIONAL PARK TRUST ( %960-2848; www.jcdt.org.jm; 29 Dumbarton Ave, Kingston 10) Responsible for the management and supervision of the Blue Mountains-John Crow National Park. Can advise on guides and routes. Jamaica Tourist BoardTOURIST INFORMATION (www.visitjamaica.com; J$250) Offices offering maps, brochures and limited travel advice in Uptown and Norman Manley International Airport (Arrivals hall). Getting There & Away Air Norman Manley International Airport, 27km southeast of Downtown, handles international flights. Domestic flights depart and land at Tinson Pen Aerodrome in west Kingston. Car From the North Coast The A3 leads to Kingston via the Stony Hill and Constant Springs. The more scenic but difficult B3 takes you to Papine from Buff Bay via the Blue Mountains but is sometimes closed due to landslides. From the West Spanish Town Rd enters Kingston at the Six Miles junction. For Uptown Kingston, veer left on Washington Blvd, which later changes name to Dunrobin Ave and joins Constant Springs Rd. From the East Windward Rd passes the turnoff for Port Royal and the airport. For New Kingston turn right on Mountain View Ave or South Camp Rd (the latter has helpful 'follow the hummingbird' signs directing the way). Public Transportation Buses, minibuses and route taxis run between Kingston and every point on the island. They arrive and depart primarily from Downtown long-distance bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; cnr Port Royal St & Water Lane). Buses (fewer departures on Sunday) depart when full and are often packed beyond capacity. Comfortable Knutsford Express buses run from their own terminal in New Kingston, with several departures per day to Ocho Rios (J$1600, two hours), Falmouth (J$2200, three hours), Montego Bay (J$2450, four hours), Savannah-la-Mar (J$1500, two hours), Mandeville (J$2000, two hours) and Negril (J$2700, five hours). Buying tickets more than 24 hours in advance gets a J$200 discount. Be at the bus station 30 minutes before departure to register your ticket. Minibuses to Port Antonio (J$450, two hours) arrive and depart from outside Half Way Tree Bus Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) ). If you're traveling to Kingston, find out where you will be dropped before boarding a bus. Getting Around To/From the Airport Bus Bus 98 operates between the international airport (arrivals hall) and Parade, Downtown (J$100, 35 minutes, every 30 minutes). For Tinson Pen Aerodrome, take bus 22 or 22A from Parade (J$100, 20 minutes, hourly). Taxi Between the international airport/Tinson Pen Aerodrome and New Kingston costs about US$35/15 (J$3850/1650). Car Driving in Kingston isn't for the faint-hearted. Be prepared for erratic and aggressive driving. Don't drive Downtown after dark or stop at red lights anywhere late at night. All hotels and shopping centers offer parking, but secure car parking is nonexistent Downtown. Most car-rental companies offer free airport shuttles. Some reputable companies with offices at Norman Manley International Airport include: AvisCAR RENTAL ( %924-8293; www.avis.com) BudgetCAR RENTAL ( %759-1793; www.budget.com) Island Car RentalsCAR RENTAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %924-8075; www.islandcarrentals.com) Public Transportation Buses, minibuses and route taxis arrive and depart from North ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) and South Parade ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) in Downtown, Half Way Tree bus station in Uptown, Cross Roads (between Uptown and Downtown) and Papine, at the eastern edge of town off Old Hope Rd. Jamaica Urban Transport Co Ltd (JUTC; www.jutc.com; fares J$80-170) operates a fleet of white and yellow Mercedes-Benz and Volvo buses. Most are air-conditioned. JUTC buses stop only at official stops. Minibuses and route taxis ply all the popular routes (J$50 to J$80), stopping on request. It's easy to confuse white route taxis with red license plates with identical chartered taxis. Taxi Taxis are numerous in Kingston except when it rains, when demand skyrockets. Use licensed cabs only, which have red PP or PPV license plates. Taxis have no meters, so confirm the fare in advance (New Kingston to Downtown is about J$500). Reputable 24-hour radio taxi firms: Apollo TaxisTAXI ( %969-9993) El ShaddaiTAXI ( %925-1363) On TimeTAXI ( %926-3866) Biggest radio taxi company in Jamaica. ## Around Kingston Whether it's Downtown's perpetual slope toward the harbor or the Blue Mountains beckoning from high above Uptown, there's something about Kingston's topography that tempts the visitor to take a break from the intensity of city life. Most popular among day trips is a visit to Port Royal, a former pirate's den of iniquity, easily combined with a visit to Lime Cay, the best (and closest) swimming spot in the area. Other good seaside options include Hellshire Beach – a quintessential Kingstonian seaside experience – and Bull Bay, a rapidly growing surfing community. If it's greenery you crave, Castleton Gardens, a half-hour drive north of Kingston, are the finest botanic gardens in Jamaica. Finally, Jamaica's second city and former capital, Spanish Town, is noted for its Georgian architecture as well as the red brick splendour of St Jago de la Vega, the oldest Anglican cathedral outside of England. ### Castleton Gardens These fine gardens ( h9am-5pm), 27km north of Half Way Tree, are spread over 12 hectares on the banks of the Wag Water River. They date back to 1862, when 400 specimens from Kew Gardens in London were transplanted on the former sugar plantation owned by Lord Castleton. More than 1000 species of natives and exotics are displayed. ### Bull Bay Bull Bay is 14km east of Downtown Kingston (bus 97 from Parade, J$100, 30 minutes). It's a nondescript place, but nearby is Jamaica's most notable surf camp and an interesting Rastafarian community. Jamnesia Surf CampSURFING ( %750-0103; http://jamnesiasurf.com; Cable Hut Beach) This surf club with accommodation (camping per person US$15, s/d from US$35/45) and a chilled vibe is a great place to catch the swell. There are plenty of boards to rent, decent basic rooms with shared kitchen facilities and a rustic outdoor bar that has live music on alternate Saturdays. Multinight lodging packages are also offered, including meals and surf shuttle. Bobo HillRASTAFARIAN COMMUNITY (Ethiopia Africa Black International Congress; %578-6798) Bobo Hill, or the Ethiopia Africa Black International Congress, is the home of the Bobo Ashanti and sits on Queensbury Ridge above Bull Bay. About 100 fundamentalist Rastafarians live here, making a living from farming or selling natural-fiber brooms in Kingston. Other than that, they disassociate themselves from 'Babylon' and don't venture outside their commune. Guests with a sincere interest in the Bobo's beliefs are welcome as long as they respect 'manners and principles.' Guests are greeted by the head priest or female elder and given a spiel rich in clever metaphor that offers a fascinating insight into Rastafarian philosophy. Menstruating women aren't allowed inside the commune. Overnight guests must contribute 'something' and 'come to salvation' through performing duties on 'campus.' It's little more than 1km uphill from the bridge on the A4. You'll need a 4WD and to call ahead as the Bobo prefer advance notice. ### Port Royal Pop 3000 Once the wealthiest (and 'wickedest') city in the New World, the pirate capital of the Caribbean – and for more than 200 years the hub of British naval power in the West Indies – Port Royal today is a sleepy fishing village, yet one replete with historic buildings. There are few hints of the town's former glory, though landmarks such as Fort Charles have been given a new lease on life by the Jamaica Heritage Trust. Restaurants serving the freshest fish in Kingston, and doubling as party spots after hours, along with the white-sand beach of Lime Cay make this one of the best-loved spots near Kingston. History The English settled the cay in 1655 and built five forts here to defend Kingston Harbour. Buccaneers – organized as the Confederacy of the Brethren of the Coast – established their base at Port Royal, using it for government-sponsored raids against the Spanish. The lawless buccaneers were big spenders. The wealth flowing into Port Royal attracted merchants, rum traders, prostitutes and others seeking a share of the profits. Townsfolk invested in the expeditions in exchange for a share of the booty and by 1682 Port Royal was a prosperous town of 8000 people. At noon on June 7, 1692, a great earthquake shook the island, followed by a huge tsunami, and two-thirds of the town disappeared underwater. Around 2000 people died instantly, and numerous survivors were claimed by the pestilence that followed. Many claimed the destruction was God's vengeance for the town's lax morals. Port Royal never truly recovered. Piracy was outlawed, and the town was overshadowed by the growing city of Kingston. In the 18th century, Port Royal instead began a 250-year tenure as headquarters of the Royal Navy in the West Indies; Admiral Lord Nelson was quartered here for a spell. In 1838 Jamaica ceased to be a separate naval command and, with the development of steam warships in the early 20th century, Port Royal's demise was sealed. Port Royal 1Top Sights 1Fort CharlesA2 1Sights 2Old Gaol HouseA1 3Old Naval HospitalA2 4St Peter's ChurchA2 4Sleeping 5Admiral's InnB2 6Grand Port Royal Hotel Marina & SpaB1 5Eating 7Gloria'sA1 8Gloria's Top SpotB1 9Y-KnotB1 1Sights & Activities oFort CharlesFORT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %967-8438; adult/child J$200/100; h9am-4:45pm) Jamaica's latitude and longitude are measured from the flagstaff of Fort Charles, a weathered redoubt originally laid in 1655, and the only one of the town's forts to survive the 1692 earthquake. Originally washed by the sea on three sides, the fort is now firmly landlocked due to the gradual silt build-up. At its peak, 104 guns protected the fort. Many cannons still point out from their embrasures along the restored battlements. In the center of the courtyard stands the small, well-presented **Maritime Museum** , containing a miscellany of objects – from glassware and pottery to weaponry – retrieved from the sunken city. Horatio Nelson, who later became Britain's greatest naval hero, lived in the small 'cockpit' while stationed here for 30 months. Behind the museum is the raised platform known as Nelson's Quarterdeck, where the young Nelson was kept watch for enemy ships amid fears of a French invasion. A plaque on the wall of the King's Battery commemorates his time here. A small red-brick artillery store, the 1888 **Giddy House** , sits alone just behind the fort. The 1907 earthquake briefly turned the spit to quicksand and one end of the building sank, leaving the store at a lopsided angle. Next to the Giddy House is a gun emplacement with a massive cannon – which also keeled over in 1907. St Peter's ChurchCHURCH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Main Rd) Built in 1725 of red brick, this church is handsome within, despite its cement faux-brick facade. Note the floor paved with original black-and-white tiles, and the beautifully decorated wooden organ loft built in 1743. The place is replete with memorial plaques. Come dressed up for a Sunday service. Old Naval HospitalNOTABLE BUILDING ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) Behind the old garrison wall off New St stands the dilapidated two-story Old Naval Hospital, built by Bowling Ironworks in Bradford, UK, shipped to Port Royal and reconstructed at this site in 1819. Though it suffered considerable damage from Hurricane Gilbert, the Jamaica National Heritage Trust is has plans to renovate it. Old Gaol HouseHISTORIC SITE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Gaol Alley) The only fully restored historical structure in town is the sturdy Old Gaol House, made of cut stone on Gaol Alley. It predates the 1692 earthquake, when it served as a women's jail, and has since survived a host of disasters, including 14 hurricanes and two major fires. #### DON'T MISS ### LIME CAY The idyllic Lime Cay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) is one of half a dozen or so uninhabited, white sand–rimmed coral cays about 3km offshore from Port Royal. Immortalized in the final showdown of the movie _The Harder They Come,_ it's ideal for sunbathing and snorkeling. Shacks sell food and drinks. Arrange a trip from **Morgan's Harbour Yacht Marina** (Wednesday to Sunday only, J$1000, minimum four people). You might talk the local fishers into taking you for a reduced rate on their motorized boats ('canoes'); agree a round-trip rate first and only pay half until they come to pick you up, or risk getting stranded. zFestivals & Events Port Royal Seafood FestivalFOOD ( hOct) The Port Royal Seafood Festival, held each year on National Heroes Day, the third Monday in October, is a rollicking good time with plenty of food and live music. 4Sleeping Admiral's InnGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %353-4202; Henry Morgan Blvd; d J$5000; a) Rooms inside this cheerful yellow family-run guest house have fridges and microwaves, and you can chill in the garden while the owners cook your fish supper. Trips to Lime Cay can be organized. Follow the road round past Gloria's Top Spot and past the park on your right-hand side. The guest house is on the left. Grand Port Royal Hotel Marina & SpaHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %480-5226; www.grandportroyalhotel.com; 1 Port Royal; r US$180-350; p a W s) Formerly Morgan's Harbour, this hotel in the grounds of the old naval dockyard (which featured in the Bond film _Dr No_ ) was undergoing a complete refit when we visited. Expect high-end rooms with balconies, top restaurant and waterside bar overlooking Kingston's largest marina, as well as spa facilities. Day rates are also available. 5Eating & Entertainment On the main square are several food stalls serving good fried fish. oGloria'sSEAFOOD ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 5 Queen St; stew fish J$1000; hlunch & dinner) This informal restaurant fills daily with locals who drive here from miles around. Get here early, particularly on Friday night and Sunday lunchtime. Gloria's fish is nothing short of glorious – a large plate of melt-in-your-mouth perfection, accompanied by _bammy_ , festival or rice. The brown stew fish is particularly good. Y-KnotSEAFOOD ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; meals J$1000-1500; hlunch & dinner) On a large deck over the water, this spot serves particularly good conch soup, as well as sumptuous grilled chicken, fish, shrimp and lobster. The bar draws a younger crowd on weekends for drinking and dancing. Gloria's Top SpotSEAFOOD ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Foreshore Rd; meals J$1100-1400; hlunch & dinner) Run by the children of the dearly departed Gloria, this restaurant perches by the water, with a large, attractive upstairs dining area that's particularly popular with tourists and large groups. Things get lively on Friday and Saturday nights when gussied-up locals pile in to flirt and dance to the latest sounds. Getting There & Away From Kingston's Parade take bus 98 (J$100, every 30 minutes, less frequently on Sunday). ### Hellshire Beach Recreation Area White-sand beaches fringe the Hellshire Hills southwest of Kingston. Fort Clarence Beach Park (adult/child J$250/150; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat & Sun), is popular with Kingstonians on weekends. It has clean sand, showers, toilets and secure parking. A restaurant and bar are open weekends only, but there are regular dancehall events. Further on is **Fisherman's Beach** , a funky fishing and Rasta 'village' with dozens of brightly painted huts and stalls selling beer, jerk, and fish. It's a lively place on weekends, with sound systems on Sunday nights. In the morning, fishing pirogues come in with their catch. On any day of the week, though, it's a fascinating visit, a slice of the 'real' Jamaica up close. Bus 1 (J$100, 30 minutes), minibuses and route taxis (J$200) run from Kingston's Parade; bus 1A (J$00, 35 minutes) from Half Way Tree. ### Portland Bight Protected Area Created in 1999, this 1876-sq-km protected area (PBPA; www.portlandbight.com.jm) comprises Jamaica's largest natural reserve with 210 sq km of dry limestone forest and 83 sq km of wetlands, as well as precious coral reefs (two-thirds of the protected area lies offshore). This vital habitat is managed by the Caribbean Coastal Area Management Foundation (CCAM; %986-3344; www.ccam.org.jm). Although CCAM has planned to move forward with 'community tourism' programs, employing local fishermen to lead guided boat tours and hikes, the area is currently under threat from a government-led plan to develop the area into a huge trans-shipment port with a Chinese consortium – a plan being resisted by local environmental groups. ### Spanish Town Pop 160,000 Spanish Town was Jamaica's capital for more than 300 years. Now circled by ghettoes, it's very much Kingston's poor neighbor, although its historic center contains the Caribbean's most extensive assortment of Georgian architecture (albeit in a sad state of repair), its greatest cathedral and Jamaica's national archives. Parts of Spanish Town are regularly affected by gang violence. Take local advice, but consider this a day trip only. History Founded in 1534, Villa de la Vega was Spain's second permanent settlement in Jamaica. Although it grew modestly, its population was never large, and was ransacked several times by English pirates. Eventually, in 1655, an English invasion fleet landed and captured the city. The English destroyed much of the town, then they renamed it 'Spanish Town' and made it their capital. For the next two centuries, the town prospered as Jamaica's administrative capital but it was eventually outpaced by Kingston, which took over as the island's capital in 1872. 1Sights Emancipation SquareSQUARE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) Spanish Town's finest old buildings enfold this square (also known as Parade Sq). Dominating the north side is the elaborate Rodney Memorial ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Parade Sq), built for Admiral George Rodney, the commander-in-chief of the West Indian Naval Station who saved Jamaica from a combined French and Spanish invasion fleet in 1782. He stands within a cupola temple, with sculpted panel reliefs showing the battle scenes. The building behind the memorial is the National Archives ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %984-2581; admission free; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Thu), with national documents dating back centuries, including the proclamation of the abolition of slavery. On the eastern side of the plaza is the 1762 redbrick House of Assembly ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Parade Sq). It has a beautiful wooden upper story with a pillar-lined balcony. The Assembly and Supreme Court sat here in colonial days, when it was the setting for violent squabbles among feuding parliamentarians. On the square's south side are the fenced-off Courthouse Ruins ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Parade Sq), dating from 1819 but destroyed by fire in 1986. On the west side of the plaza is the porticoed Georgian red-brick facade of the ruins of the Old King's House ( GOOGLE MAP ) ), a once-grandiose building erected in 1762 as the official residence of Jamaica's governors. Today the stables, to the rear, house the People's Museum of Crafts & Technology ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %922-0620; adult/child J$300/100; h9:30am-4:30pm Mon-Thu, to 3pm Fri). A reconstructed smith's shop and an eclectic array of artifacts – from Indian corn grinders to early sugar- processing and coffee-making machinery – provide an entry point to early Jamaican culture. A model shows how Old King's House once looked and the outdoor section features carriages used in colonial times. St Jago de la Vega CathedralCHURCH ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) Built in 1714, this is the oldest Anglican cathedral in the Caribbean, boasting an impressive beamed ceiling, and a magnificent stained-glass window behind the altar. The church stands on the site of one of the first Spanish cathedrals in the New World, built in 1525. Note the gargoyles with African features, considered unique in the world, above the south window. Iron BridgeLANDMARK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) At the bottom of Barrett St, turn left onto Bourkes Rd and follow it east to the narrow Iron Bridgespanning the Rio Cobre. The span was made of cast iron prefabricated at Colebrookdale, England, and was erected in 1801 on a cut-stone foundation that dates to 1675. The only surviving bridge of its kind in the Americas, it is still used by pedestrians, if barely. 5Eating Cecil'sJAMAICAN ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %984-1927; 35 Martin St; meals J$450-650; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Curry goat, oxtail and beans, brown stew chicken and a host of chow mein dishes served on plastic tablecloths under dim lighting. La Cocina for Mom's CookingJAMAICAN ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Shop 31, St Jago Shopping Centre, Bourkes Rd; meals J$300-450; hlunch) Popular lunch spot cooking up a slightly Spanish take on Jamaican favorites such as stew pork, red pea soup and curry mutton. Information Parts of Spanish Town are heavily affected by gang violence. Beware pickpocketing, especially at the market, and avoid driving near the market and exploring away from main downtown streets. PolicePOLICE ( %984-2775; cnr Oxford Rd & Wellington St) Post OfficePOST OFFICE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %984 2409; cnr King & Adelaide Sts) ScotiabankBANK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %984-3024; 27 Adelaide St) Spanish Town HospitalHOSPITAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %984-3031; Bourkes Rd) Has a 24-hour emergency department. Getting There & Away From Half Way Tree take bus 21B; from Parade, 22, 22A (J$100). In Spanish Town, buses, minibuses and route taxis leave from the municipal bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Bourkes Rd). Taxis depart from the taxi stand ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) to the east of the bus terminal on Bourkes Rd. ### May Pen & Around #### May Pen Pop 48,500 The capital of Clarendon parish, 58km west of Kingston, is a teeming market and agricultural town. Expect pandemonium on Friday and Saturday when the market is held south of the main square, with terrible congestion adding to the general mayhem. 1Sights Halse HallNOTABLE BUILDING ( %986-2215; htours by arrangement) Halse Hall is a handsome great house 5km south of May Pen. The house was once occupied by Sir Hans Sloane, the doctor and botanist whose collection of Jamaican flora and fauna formed the nucleus of what later became the Natural History Museum in London. Today, it is owned by the bauxite concern Alcoa Minerals, but tours can be arranged in advance. zFestivals & Events Denbigh Agricultural ShowAGRICULTURE The annual Denbigh Agricultural Show is held on the Denbigh Showground, 3km west of town, on Independence weekend in early August. It's a muddy, smelly, noisy and enjoyable affair, with farmers from each parish showcasing the fruits of their labor, from yams to livestock. Live entertainment and food vendors round out the bill. 4Sleeping Hotel VersallesHOTEL ( %986-2709; hotelversalles@cwjamaica.com; 42 Longbridge Ave; r J$8000, ste J$10000; p a i s) This modern hotel, 1km southwest of town, has modestly furnished rooms, suites and studios. Take the second left at the Mineral Lights Roundabout. Getting There & Around The transportation center ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Main St), 200m southeast of the main square, has frequent buses, minibuses and route taxis to and from Kingston (J$150, one hour), Ocho Rios, Mandeville, Negril and Milk River. #### Milk River Bath This well-known spa ( %449-6502; adult/child per bath J$400/200, hotel guests free, massages J$1000-4500; h7am-10pm), operating since 1794, is fed from a saline mineral hot spring that bubbles up at the foot of Round Hill, 3km from the sea. The waters are a near-constant 33°C (92°F). The spa, which is attached to the Milk River Hotel, is owned by the government. Public and private baths are available. Many recommend drinking the waters as a tonic, but they're the most radioactive spa waters in the world; bathers are limited to only 15 minutes, though you are allowed three baths a day. About 200m north of the spa is the open-air **Milk River Mineral Spa Swimming Pool.** Beyond Milk River Bath, a dirt road leads 2.5km to the black-sand **Farquhars Beach** , where you can watch fishermen tending their nets and pirogues. Milk River Hotel ( %449-6502; hotelmilkriver@yahoo.com; Clarendon; d without/with bathroom J$6000/8000) is a rambling white-porched hotel with shady verandas and 20 modestly furnished, pleasant rooms. Jamaican favorites are served in a cozy dining room; full board is available. Farquhars Beach has two good eateries: **Dian's Three Star Seafood Restaurant** , a sky-blue shack serving steamed fish and basic Jamaican fare; and **Jaddy's** Rasta shack at the end of the beach, great for fried fish, fish tea and dumplings. A bus operates from May Pen (J$150, 45 minutes) twice daily. #### WORTH A TRIP ### CANOE VALLEY WETLAND This is lovely government-owned wildlife reserve ( %377-8264; hMon-Sat) known as Alligator Hole. It's notable for its family of manatees that inhabit the clear water, and its crocodiles. They live amid dense reeds in jade-blue pools fed by waters that emerge at the base of limestone cliffs, and are not always easy to see. Waterfowl are abundant. There's a small visitor center with displays on local wildlife. You can take an hour-long trip by canoe with a guide for J$1000 (tip expected). The turnoff is signed 1.5km north of Milk River Bath on the B12. Otherwise take the beautiful 17km-long coastal road from **Alligator Pond** , which is often deserted. The road conditions can be poor after autumn rains. ## Blue Mountains Deriving its name from the azure haze that settles lazily around its peaks, this 45km-long mountain range looms high above the eastern parishes of St Andrew, St Thomas, Portland and St Mary. The Blue Mountains were formed during the Cretaceous Period (somewhere between 144 and 65 million years ago) and are the island's oldest feature. Highest of the highlights, Blue Mountain Peak reaches 2256m above sea level, and no visit to the area should neglect a predawn hike to its summit for a sunrise view (see Blue Mountain Peak). Unsurprisingly, the Blue Mountains' largely unspoiled character owes much to the difficulty in navigating around the area. Roads are narrow and winding, and some are dirt tracks that are utterly impossible to pass without 4WD, especially after heavy rains. If you are spending time in the area, it is highly advisable to rent a hardy vehicle, contact a tour guide or make arrangements with your hotel. ### GETTING AROUND IN THE BLUE MOUNTAINS Traveling by your own vehicle is the best way to enjoy the Blue Mountains as public transportation between villages is infrequent and it's difficult to reach many points of interest. Many mountain guest houses will arrange transfers. #### By Car The roads in the Blue Mountains consist of endless switchbacks; they are narrow, sometimes overgrown with foliage, and can be badly rutted. Many corners are blind. Honk your horn frequently and watch out for reckless local drivers. The main routes are usually fine for most vehicles, but the further you get from the beaten track, piste quality can deteriorate quickly (especially after heavy rains), making a sturdy 4WD with a low gear option a better option. Where relevant, road conditions are noted in the text. From Kingston, Hope Rd leads to Papine, from where Gordon Town Rd (B1) leads into the mountains. Papine is your last opportunity to fill up with gas, so make sure you have a full tank. At the Cooperage, the road splits in two. Mammee River Rd forks left steeply uphill for Strawberry Hill resort (near Irish Town) and Newcastle. Alternatively Gordon Town Rd continues straight from the Cooperage and winds east up the Hope River Valley to Gordon Town, then steeply to Mavis Bank and Hagley Gap (for Blue Mountain Peak). The B1 continues across the mountains all the way to Buff Bay. A 4WD is recommended; this road is sometimes closed by landslides, so check before setting out. #### By Public Transportation Buses run hourly from Halfway Tree in Kingston up Hope Rd to Papine (J$100, 20 minutes), from where you connect to the Blue Mountains. Minibuses and route taxis depart from near the Park View Supermarket on the main square in Papine. There are two main routes: to Mavis Bank and Hagley Gap via Gordon Town (for Blue Mountain Peak), and to Newcastle and Section via Irish Town. Frequency of service depends on demand, but there's at least one morning run and one in the afternoon for the two main routes. Sample fares include Mavis Bank (J$250, 1½ hours), Irish Town (J$150, 45 minutes) and Newcastle (J$250, 1¼ hours). Be prepared to haggle if you want to charter a route taxi. There is no regular bus service up the B1 to Buff Bay. #### By Mountain Bike An exhilarating way to see the Blue Mountains is by mountain bike – the sturdier the better as the going can be steep and arduous. Blue Mountain Bicycle Tours in Ocho Rios offers pickup from Kingston or Ocho Rios, transfer to the Hardwar Gap and an exhilarating downhill cycling tour. Potential stops include a coffee-roasting facility. Up to 43 cyclists. Mount Edge B&B offers a similar tour with smaller groups, also from Hardwar Gap. Always check the bike's condition before setting out. History With dense primary forests and forbidding topography, the prospect of life in the Blue Mountains has discouraged all but the most determined settlers. During the 17th and 18th centuries, these same formidable qualities made the territory the perfect hideout for the Windward Maroons, who from their remote stronghold at Nanny Town resisted enslavement and British colonialism for more than 100 years. But this region's primary claim to fame has always been coffee cultivation; it has been a mainstay since the very first coffee factories were erected around Clydesdale in the mid-18th century. Meanwhile, back down at sea level, the southeast coast of St Thomas parish is notable for its long history of protest and rebellion, and the independent spirit of the region has kept it at odds with the government even to this day. The Blue Mountains-John Crow National Park was gazetted in 1993 in recognition of the region's ecological and cultural importance. Blue Mountains 1Sights 1Abbey GreenD3 2Blue Mountain PeakE3 3Cinchona GardensC2 4ClydesdaleC2 5FlamsteadC4 6Mavis Bank Coffee FactoryC4 7Observation Deck GalleryA3 8Old Tavern Coffee EstateB2 9Silver Hill Coffee FactoryB2 10St Mark's ChapelA3 2Activities, Courses & Tours 11Craighton Coffee EstateB3 Forres Park Guest House & FarmC4 12Holywell Recreation AreaA2 Mount Edge B&BB2 13Starlight Chalet & Health SpaB2 4Sleeping 14Forres Park Guest House & FarmC4 15Gap Café Bed & BreakfastA2 16Heritage GardensB2 17Jah B's Guest HouseD3 18Jamaica Conservation & Development TrustE3 19Lime Tree FarmC4 20Mount Edge B&BB2 21Strawberry HillA3 22Whitfield HallD3 Information The Blue Mountains-John Crow National Park protects 782 sq km and is managed by the Jamaica Conservation & Development Trust (JCDT; GOOGLE MAP ) ; %960-2848; www.blueandjohncrowmountains.org; 29 Dumbarton Ave, Kingston). The park includes the forest reserves of the Blue and John Crow Mountain Ranges and spans the parishes of St Andrew, St Thomas, Portland and St Mary. Ecotourism is being promoted and locals are being trained as guides. Camping is only permitted at designated sites. Camping 'wild' is not advised. There is a national park entrance fee of US$5, payable at the ranger stations ( h9am-5pm) at Holywell Recreation Area and Portland Gap (for Blue Mountain Peak), and at the Kingston office of the JCDT. Although it's quite possible to enter without a ticket, we do urge you to pay as funds go directly to supporting trail maintenance, ranger salaries and conservation work. The JCDT can also advise on guides and hiking routes, and sell copies of the excellent _Guide to the Blue and John Crow Mountains_. ### Irish Town Mammee River Rd climbs to Irish Town, a small village where the coopers lived during the 19th century. Potatoes are still an important crop, reflecting the Irish influence. Largely famous for one of the Caribbean's most luxurious resorts, it also contains St Mark's Chapel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ), an attractive white clapboard church restored after damage from Hurricane Gilbert. The pleasant Observation Deck Gallery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %944-8592; hThu-Sun) features sculpture and painting by local artist Tiffany Recas; it can be found just below the town. A little further up the road, the excellent Cafe Blue (meals J$700; hlunch), the offshoot of the popular Kingston institution, serves sumptuous gourmet sandwiches and Blue Mountain coffee, while the adjoining Crystal Edge (meals J$1000; hlunch) specializes in Jamaican favorites, such as curry goat, and is popular for Sunday brunch. From Irish Town, a dirt road runs up to the fundamentalist Rastafarian commune called **Mount Zion Hill** , consisting of just over 50 adults and children who rely on subsistence farming for a living. Though fierce in their rejection of Babylon, the residents can be seen on Papine Sq every Saturday when they come down to hold a Nyabinghi Sabbath Service consisting of drumming and dancing. #### DON'T MISS ### STRAWBERRY HILL One of the finest resorts in Jamaica and record mogul Chris Blackwell's pet, Strawberry Hill ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %946-1958; www.islandoutpost.com/strawberry_hill; r/ste/villa incl breakfast & transfers US$355/455/595; p a W s) is a luxury retreat just north of Irish Town. Gaze at Kingston and the harbor 950m below from a deckchair by the infinity-edge pool, roam the bougainvillea-draped grounds or relax at the Ayurvedic spa. The Caribbean-style cottages range from well-appointed mahogany-accented studio suites, each with canopied four-poster beds with heated mattresses, to a four-bedroom, two-story house built into the hillside. A sumptuous breakfast is included in the rates, as are transfers. Bird-watching, hiking and other tours are available, and Strawberry Hill also hosts a calendar of special events throughout the year. Many Kingstonians make the tortuous drive to Strawberry Hill for some of the finest nouvelle Jamaican cuisine on the island (dinners US$25 to US$55, Sunday brunch J$3000). Reservations required. ### Newcastle The road climbs to 1220m where you suddenly emerge on a wide parade ground guarded by a small cannon. The military encampment clambers up the slope above the square. Newcastle was founded in 1841 as a training site and convalescent center for British soldiers. Since 1962 the camp has been used by the Jamaica Defense Force. Note the insignia (which dates back to 1884) on the whitewashed stone wall, commemorating those regiments stationed at Newcastle. Visitors are allowed only around the canteen, shop, roadways and parade ground. A steep dirt road runs from the parade ground up to **St Catherine's Peak** (one hour). You need to get permission first from the military encampment. Three kilometers above Newcastle you reach **Hardwar Gap** (1700m), at the crest of the Grand Ridge – the start on an exhilarating cycle track. 1Sights & Activities Craighton Coffee EstateCOFFEE ESTATE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.craightonestate.com; 1hr tour per person J$2000; h9am-4pm) Just north of Newcastle, you can take a one-hour tour of the attractive 200-year-old Craighton Estate Great House and coffee plantation. During the tour, your knowledgeable guide explains to you the basics of coffee cultivation and a mildly steep walk leads you up to a gazebo surrounded by coffee bushes, with wonderful views of the mountains and the villages below. Tasting is included. 4Sleeping & Eating oMount Edge B&BGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %351-5083, 944-8151; www.17milepost.com; r with shared bathroom J$3000-4000, r J$4000-6000; p i W) S This quirky mountainside maze of brightly painted rooms and rustic bathrooms is a great budget option. Some rooms (as well as the chill-out lounge) have great views over the valley below and the gardens that produce organic vegies for the EITS Café. Birding and cycling tours are on offer. Meal packages can be arranged and weekly and monthly rates are negotiable. oRafjam Bed & BreakfastGUESTHOUSE ( %944.8094; www.rafjam.net; Red Light; r US$35-40, two bedroom cottage US$140) This popular budget guest house sits next to the hamlet of Red Light, surrounded by nature and with lovely views. Rooms are charming if simple, but the welcome is a warm one. Bird-watching and guides for hiking can be arranged, or chill out in a hammock or in the terrace tiki bar that hangs over a burbling river. Gap Café Bed & BreakfastB&B ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %319-2406; r J$6000) Just below the entrance to Holywell Recreation Area, here's a cosy Hansel and Gretel-style, one-bedroom, self-catering cottage with a veranda. The **cafe** (open for breakfast and lunch Thursday to Sunday; dinner by reservation only) is a fabulous place to take in the vistas. Dine alfresco on a wooden terrace, sampling the succulent curry goat and smoked pork chops, as well as lighter fare in the form of fancy sandwiches. Heritage GardensGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %960-8627/0794; www.heritagegardensjamaica.com; cottages J$15000) Set 400m east of Newcastle parade ground, this is a simple yet exquisite three/four-bedroom, fully equipped wooden cottage (with kitchen, lounge and live-in caretakers), set in a coffee estate (c 1750) with wonderful views towards Kingston. The old coffee-drying barbecues are now laid out as gardens. EITS CaféORGANIC ( %944-8151; breakfasts J$800, salads J$500, mains from J$1400) The acronym in the name of the restaurant at the Mount Edge B&B stands for Europe In The Summer – a reasonable summation of what the menu is attempting, with fresh organic vegetables and a 'farm to table' attitude. ### A SEED-TO-CUP TASTE OF BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEE Coffee grows best on well-watered, well-drained slopes in cooler, tropical climates, such as Jamaica's Blue Mountains region. Its distinctly flavored coffee, with its lack of bitterness, is acclaimed by connoisseurs as among the world's best. To be designated 'Blue Mountain,' it must be grown – and roasted – at a certain altitude in a prescribed area. In 1728, at Temple Hall Estate, north of Kingston, governor Sir Nicholas Lawes introduced Arabica coffee to Jamaica from neighboring St Domingue (modern Haiti) and other planters followed suit, prompted by the growing demand in Europe. After the Haitian Revolution, many French planters settled in Jamaica, bringing their expertise with them, expanding and refining the industry. During the peak years of 1800–1840, production rose to 17,000 tons a year and Jamaica became the world's largest exporter. Emancipation in 1838 brought an end to many of the plantations. Many ex-slaves left the estates and planted their own coffee. As steeper slopes were planted, coffee quality began to decline. The end of Britain's preferential tariffs for Jamaican coffee further damaged the industry at a time when high-quality coffee from Brazil was beginning to sap Jamaica's market share. By the close of WWII, Jamaica's coffee industry was on its last legs, prompting the Jamaican government to establish quality guidelines for coffee cultivation, thus saving the plantations. There has been a resurgence in the popularity of Blue Mountain coffee in the last decade, largely thanks to interest from Japan, where it is a treasured commodity and sells for US$140 or more per kilogram. More than 80% of Blue Mountain coffee is sold to Japan at a preferential rate. Sadly, this profitability only encouraged deforestation at home. Tearing down trees brought coffee farmers more valuable land, but also chased away migratory bird populations and has made Blue Mountain coffee especially vulnerable to hurricane damage. Over the past few years the industry's small farmers have been particularly hard hit by natural disasters, highlighting the need both for greater regulations and greater investment. Currently 26 large and small estates are certified to produce Blue Mountain coffee, with quality guaranteed by the Jamaica coffee industry board. Several estates offer plantation and factory tours, allowing you to learn about this most treasured drink from seed to cup, and come away with your own beans to enjoy at home – food miles don't come much shorter than this. Estates worth checking out are the Mavis Bank Coffee Factory (in Mavis Bank), Craighton Coffee Estate (Newcastle) and Old Tavern Coffee Estate (Section). ### Holywell Recreation Area Spanning Hardwar Gap, this area ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %960-2848; www.greenjamaica.org.jm; US$5; h9am-5pm) protects 120 hectares of remnant woodland, lush with dozens of fern species, epiphytes, impatiens, violets, nasturtiums, wild strawberries and raspberries. The mist-shrouded uppermost slopes are densely forested with rare primary montane forest, dominated by pine trees. The **bird-watching** is fabulous. The manned ranger station is a short distance beyond the entrance. The orientation center hosts occasional live entertainment such as traditional music and dance, plus outdoor games, storytelling and a treasure hunt for the kids (contact the Jamaica Conservation & Development Trust for information). On the last Sunday in February, the **Misty Bliss** mountain festival is held here, involving Maroon drumming, food and storytelling. Well-maintained, easy hiking trails lead off in all directions through the ferny dells, cloud forest and elfin woodland. The 2.4km **Oatley Mountain Trail** , best seen with a guide (US$20) who can point out the different flora, leads to a river good for bathing. The 2km **Waterfall Trail** leads down along a stream to the Cascade Waterfalls – more trickle than cascade, due to recent landslides. Camping (per person J$423) is allowed. You can also rent rustic cabins (1-/2-bedroom cabins J$4233/5926) with basic kitchens. Bring your own bedding and food (there's a gas ring and fridge) and reserve cabins in advance, particularly on weekends and holidays. ### Section & Clydesdale Heading northeast from Holywell, the road drops steeply toward the hamlet of **Section** and then curls its way down to Buff Bay, 29km north (impassible at the time of writing due to landslides). A turnoff to the right at Section leads 1.5km to the ridge crest, where the main road loops south and drops to Content Gap, eventually linking up with the road from Gordon Town to Mavis Bank. A steep and muddy dirt road to the left drops to the simple Silver Hill Coffee Factory ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ). Clydesdale ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) is a derelict old coffee plantation and a good spot for camping. The much-battered waterwheel and coffee-mill machinery are partially intact. There is a small waterfall where you can skinny-dip and a natural pool in the Clydesdale River below, rumored to have healing properties. From Section take the horrendously potholed road south towards Guava Ridge; the turnoff for Clydesdale is about 1km above the hamlet of St Peters. Then you will cross over the Chestervale Bridge above the Brook's River and take the left, steeply uphill road at the Y-fork. It's a terribly rocky drive, suitable for a 4WD only. 1Sights Old Tavern Coffee EstateCOFFEE ESTATE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %924-2785) Old Tavern Coffee Estate lies about 1.5km southwest of Section. Dorothy Twyman and her son David, produce the superb Blue Mountain coffee. The Twymans welcome visitors by prior arrangement. You're treated to a lesson on coffee growing and production as well as a tasting session of two of the three arabica bean roasts: dark, medium-dark and medium. Additionally, they produce the rare peaberry variety with a mild, subtle flavor. The late Alex Twyman emigrated to Jamaica from England in 1958 and started growing coffee a decade later, his son now keeping up the tradition. Dorothy oversees the roasting, meticulously performing quality control by taste. The environmentally conscious Twymans keep their use of chemical pesticides and fertilizers to a minimum and compost all by-products before returning them to the soil Cinchona GardensGARDEN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; tip to caretaker expected) A dilapidated old house sits atop these 2.5-hectare gardens, fronted by lawns and exquisite floral beds. It's a little run-down, but the views are fabulous: to the north stand the peaks, but you can also peer down into the valleys of the Clyde, Green and Yallahs Rivers. The Panorama Walk begins to the east of the gardens, leading through a glade of towering bamboo and taking in the juniper cedar, camphor and eucalyptus trees, as well as a striking display of orchids. It was the cultivation of Assam tea and cinchona (whose quinine – extracted from the bark – was used to fight malaria) that led to the founding of Cinchona Gardens in 1868. The grounds were later turned into a garden to supply Kingston with flowers. In 1903 the Jamaican government leased Cinchona to the New York Botanical Gardens and, later, to the Smithsonian Institute. Finding Cinchona can be difficult without a guide. From Clydesdale you can either hike (1½ hours) or drive uphill along the muddy dirt track for about 3km. There are several unmarked junctions; ask for directions at every opportunity. Don't underestimate the awful road conditions; a 4WD with low-gear option is absolutely essential. Alternatively, you can drive up the more populated route via Mavis Bank, though the road conditions can be as atrocious. 4Sleeping Starlight Chalet & Health SpaHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %969-3070; www.starlightchalet.com; s/d US$80/90, ste US$95-285) This plantation-style retreat is set amid a flower-filled hillside garden with dramatic alpine vistas, at the turnoff for the Silver Hill Coffee Factory. A great base for birding and hiking, it also offers massages at the no-frills spa, nature walks and yoga; book ahead of arrival. Off-season, you'll have the place to yourself. Pickups are available – the road is atrocious. ### Gordon Town & Guava Ridge Gordon Town, at 370m, is a hamlet centered on a wide square with a police station and tiny courthouse. It began life as a staging post for Newcastle in the days before the Mammee River Rd was cut from the Cooperage. Turn right at the square and cross the narrow bridge to reach Guava Ridge, a ridge-crest junction for Content Gap and sights to the north, while Mavis Bank and Blue Mountain Peak are straight ahead. Part dirt road, part footpath, the **Bermuda Mt Trail** begins in Gordon Town and follows the Hope River Valley for part of the way before leading northwest to Redlight via Craighton. A road signed for 'Bellevue House', 50m east of Guava Ridge, leads through pine and eucalyptus forests to the coffee plantation of Flamstead ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %960-0204) – visits by prior appointment. This former great house of Governor Edward Eyre was a lookout from which Horatio Nelson and other British naval officers surveyed the Port Royal base. You can admire the awe-inspiring views over the Palisadoes and Kingston Harbour. ### Mavis Bank Mavis Bank, around a one-hour drive from Kingston, is a tidy little village in the midst of coffee country. 1Sights & Activities Mavis Bank Coffee FactoryCOFFEE ESTATE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %977-8015; tour J$1000; h10am-2pm Mon-Fri) Established in 1923 and located 1km southwest of Mavis Bank is the largest coffee factory in Jamaica, producing Blue Mountain coffee sold under the 'Jablum' label. Ask the chief 'cupper' to demonstrate 'cupping' (tasting), the technique to identify quality coffee. You can tour the factory to see the coffee beans drying (in season) and being processed; call in advance. At the end of the 'from the berry to the cup' tour you can purchase roasted beans at bargain prices. Farm Hill TrailHIKING This trail begins beside the Anglican church, crossing Yallahs River and Green River and leading uphill for 8km (1½ to two hours) to Penlyne Castle and on to Blue Mountain Peak. 4Sleeping Forres Park Guest House & FarmGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %927-8275; www.forrespark.com; cabin US$75, r US$90-220; p) This guest house is a top choice for bird-watchers. All rooms have balconies and the plushest sports a whirlpool tub. Excellent meals are cooked on request and available to nonguests. You can rent mountain bikes and enjoy the on-site spa treatments after tackling the steep, rewarding hiking trail. Tours and guided hikes offered by appointment. oLime Tree FarmBOUTIQUE HOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %881-8788; www.limetreefarm.com; d cottage with full board US$326; p) This combination of a small working coffee farm with exclusive all-inclusive lodging is hugely appealing. It offers three large, luxurious cottages with jaw-dropping mountain views as well as fine meals consumed in the attractive open-air lounge. All-inclusive packages comprise wine with dinner, transportation to and from Kingston and a variety of bird-watching and hiking tours. ### Hagley Gap & Penlyne Castle The ramshackle village of **Hagley Gap** sits abreast a hill east of Mavis Bank and is the gateway to Blue Mountain Peak. The road forks in the village, where a horrendously denuded dirt road to Penlyne Castle begins a precipitous ascent. **Penlyne Castle** is the base for the 12km hikes to and from Blue Mountain Peak. Most hikers stay overnight at one of several simple lodges near Penlyne Castle before tackling the hike in the wee hours. Bring warm, waterproof clothing. One minute you're in sun-kissed mountains; the next, clouds swirl in and the temperature plunges. Penlyne Castle is reached via a 5km dirt road that ascends precipitously from Hagley Gap. Only 4WD vehicles with low-gear option can handle the dauntingly narrow and rugged road. 4Sleeping Jah B's Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %377-5206; bobotamo@yahoo.com; dm/r J$20/30; p) This friendly place, run by a family of Bobo Rastas and particularly popular with shoestring travelers, has a basic but cozy guest house with bunks and simple rooms. Jah B's son Alex himself cooks I-tal meals amid a cloud of ganja smoke and a nonstop volley of friendly banter; he can help arrange transfers from Kingston. Whitfield HallGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %878-0514; www.whitfieldhall.com; camping per tent US$103, dm US$20, s/d US$30/55; p) Nestled amid pine trees, this former plantation dating from 1776 is an atmospheric but basic option (it's electricity-free), with shared bathrooms and kitchen. The dark, cavernous lounge has a huge fireplace and smoke-stained ceiling. Camping is allowed on the lawn beneath the trees. Order a large breakfast (US$8) or lunch/dinner (US$9) in advance. ### Blue Mountain Peak From Penlyne Castle to the summit of Blue Mountain Peak ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) (2256m) is a 950m ascent and a three- or four-hour hike one way. It's not a serious challenge, but you need to be reasonably fit. Most hikers set off from Penlyne Castle around 2am to reach the peak for sunrise. Fortified with breakfast of coffee and cereal, you set out single file in the pitch black along the 12km round-trip trail (you'll need a flashlight and a spare set of batteries, just in case). The first part of the trail – a series of steep scree-covered switchbacks named **Jacob's Ladder** – is the toughest. Midway, at Portland Gap, there's a ranger station and cabin, where you pay the US$5 park fee. As you hike, reggae music can be heard far, far below, competing with the chirps of crickets and katydids. Myriad peeny-wallies flit before you, signaling with their phosphorescent semaphore. You should arrive at the peak around 5:30am, while it is still dark. Your stage is gradually revealed: a flat-topped hump, marked by a scaffolding pyramid and trig point (in the cloud it is easy to mistake a smaller hump to the left of the hut near the summit – **Lazy Man's Peak** – for the real thing). If the weather's clear, Cuba, 144km away, can be seen from the peak, which casts a distinct shadow over the land below. After a brief celebratory drink and snacks, you'll set off back down the mountain, passing through several distinct ecosystems – stunted dwarf or elfin forest, with trees like hirsute soapwood and rodwood no more than 2.5m high, an adaptation to the cold, followed by cloud forest, dripping with filaments of hanging lichens and festooned with epiphytes and moss and dotted with wild strawberries, while further down you encounter bamboo and primordial giant tree ferns. Your guide points out Blue Mountain coffee growing and you arrive at your accommodations in time for brunch. Don't hike without a guide at night. Numerous spur trails lead off the main trails and it is easy to get lost. Although hiking boots or tough walking shoes are best, sneakers will suffice, though your feet will likely get wet. At the top, temperatures can approach freezing before sunrise, so wear plenty of layers. Rain gear is also essential, as the weather can change rapidly. The Jamaica Conservation & Development Trust ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %960-2848, 960-2849; www.jcdt.org.jm; 29 Dumbarton Ave, Kingston 10; tent J$170, dm J$423) maintains two basic wooden cabins halfway up the trail at Portland Gap (4km above Abbey Green ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) )). You can camp outside, where there's a cooking area and water from a pipe. Bring your own tent, sleep on a bunk bed (BYO sleeping bag) or on the floor (foam mats available for rent; J$150). Reserve in advance. ### HIKING IN THE BLUE MOUNTAINS The Blue Mountains are a hiker's dream, and 30 recognized trails lace the hills. Many are overgrown due to lack of funding and ecological protection programs, but others remain the mainstay of communication for locals. The most popular route is the steep, well-maintained trail to 'The Peak,' which in Jamaica always means Blue Mountain Peak. These trails (called 'tracks' locally) are rarely marked. Get up-to-date information on trail conditions from the main ranger station at Holywell. If a trail is difficult to follow, turn back. Mountain rescue is slow and you could be lost for days. When asking for directions from locals, remember that 'jus a likkle way' may in fact be a few hours of hiking. If you're hiking alone, normal precautions apply: * Wear sturdy hiking shoes * Bring snacks, plenty of water and a flashlight (torch) * Let people know where you're headed * Buy the 1:50,000 or 1:12,500 Ordnance Survey topographic map series, available from the Survey Department ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %750-5263; www.nla.gov.jm; 23½ Charles St, Kingston) Guides can be hired at the guesthouses in Hagley Gap, Penlyne Castle or through most local accommodations for J$5000/7000 per half/full day, while guided hikes in the Blue Mountains are also offered by the following: * Forres Park Guest House & Farm ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %927-8275; www.forrespark.com) * Jamaica Conservation & Development Trust – manages trails in the national park and can recommend hiking guides * Mount Edge B&B ## Southeast Coast Jamaica's southeast corner, the parish of St Thomas, is one of the least-developed parts of the island, which is part of its charm. Don't be surprised if you come across obeah circles in isolated villages – this parish is strongly associated with the practice. ### Yallahs & Around Southeast of Bull Bay and the parish boundary between St Andrew and St Thomas, the A4 from Kingston makes a hairpin descent to **Grants Pen** , then winds through scrub-covered country until it reaches the coast at **Yallahs**. The excellent **jerk stands** of Yallahs' Main St are a cheerful pit stop. Past Yallahs, a series of long, dark-gray beaches, with colorful pirogues drawn up, extends eastward to **Morant Bay** , and a pitted dirt road only navigable by 4WD heads north into the mountains to Hagley Gap. East of Yallahs, two large **salt ponds** are enclosed by a narrow, bow-shaped spit of sand. The ponds are exceedingly briny due to evaporation and legend has it that they were formed by the tears of an English planter whose beloved married his brother. Algae flourishes and often turns the ponds a deep pink, accompanied by a powerful smell of hydrogen sulfide ('bad egg gas'). ### Morant Bay Pop 9400 Morant Bay, the town that played a pivotal role in Jamaica's history (see The Morant Bay Rebellion), squats on a hill behind the coast road. These days, it's a nondescript place with a lively central market, its sugar-producing heyday long behind it. Most of the town's early colonial-era buildings were burned in the Morant Bay Rebellion of 1865, led by the town's national hero, Paul Bogle, but a couple of gems remain. October 11 is **Paul Bogle Day** , when a party is held in the town square and a 10km road race sets out from Stony Gut. 1Sights Just east of Morant Bay lies the attractive, palm-fringed **Lyssons Beach** – one of the few public beaches in Jamaica with free access for locals (though paid parking). Courthouse & AroundHISTORIC BUILDING Port Morant's courthouse was rebuilt in limestone and red brick after being destroyed in the 1865 rebellion and burned down again in early 2007, its ruins standing defiant behind an empty plinth that once bore an Edna Manley statue of Paul Bogle, his hands clasped over the hilt of a machete. Bogle is buried beside the courthouse alongside a mass grave holding the remains of many slaves who lost their lives in the rebellion. Diagonally across from the courthouse is a handsome, ochre-colored **Anglican church** dating to 1881. Information Police stationPOLICE (7 South St) Next to the old courthouse. ScotiabankBANK (23 Queen St) Opposite the Texaco gas station. Getting There & Away Buses serve Kingston (J$160 to J$250, two hours, three daily) and Port Antonio (J$160 to J$300, 2½ hours, two daily). Minibuses and route taxis arrive and depart from beside the Shell gas station on the A4 at the west end of town. ### Retreat A small beachside residential community about 5km east of Morant Bay, Retreat draws Kingstonians on the weekends. It sits between two of the few pleasant beaches along Jamaica's southern coast. The aptly named **Golden Shore Beach** is hidden from view from the road. Watch for the hand-painted sign. Further east is **Prospect Beach** , a 'public bathing beach.' ### Bath This village, 10km north of Port Morant by a very attractive road, lies on the bank of the Plantain Garden River, amid sugarcane and banana plantations. The town owes its existence to the discovery of hot mineral springs in the hills behind the present town in the late 17th century, which attracted socialites for a time. Minibuses and route taxis run daily from the downtown bus terminal in Kingston (J$250; 90 minutes). 1Sights & Activities Bath FountainHOT SPRINGS (Massages (J$2000), Bath House 20min bath for 1/2 people J$350/550; hBath House 8am-9:30pm) Local legend says that a runaway slave discovered hot springs here that cured the leg ulcers he'd had for years. In 1699 the government bought the spring, and formed a corporation to administer mineral baths for the sick and infirm. The water's high sulfur and lime content, and slight radioactivity, have therapeutic value for skin and rheumatic problems. You can walk to the free hot springs 50m north of the Bath Hotel and Spa, though you'll sadly have to fend off the attentions of 'guides' offering massages. Alternatively have a peaceful soak in the spa at the Bath Fountain Hotel & Spa. The homey spa also offers a variety of massages. Arrive early on weekends. To get here, turn up the road opposite the church in Bath and follow the road 3km uphill. Bath Botanical GardenGARDEN ( hdawn-dusk) F At the east end of town is an old limestone church marking the entrance to a somewhat rundown horticultural garden established in 1779. Many exotics introduced to Jamaica were first planted here, including the famous breadfruit brought from the South Pacific by Captain Bligh in 1793. Every September, Bath's **Breadfruit Festival** commemorates what's now a firm Jamaican staple. Bath Fountain–Bowden Pen TrekHIKING This one-day trek, a former Maroon trading route – for experienced hikers only – leads from Bath Fountain up over Cuna Cuna Gap to Bowden Pen. Obtain Sheets 19 (St Thomas parish) and 14 (Portland parish) of the Ordnance Survey 1:12,500 map series from the Survey Department for more detailed information or hire a guide from the JCDT. 4Sleeping & Eating Bath Fountain Hotel & SpaHOTEL ( %703-4154; r with shared/private bathroom J$3600/4450, deluxe r J$6000; p) Your only option is this 18th-century pink colonial hotel that contains the spa baths on the ground floor. The clinically white bedrooms are modestly furnished. There's a small restaurant serving Jamaican dishes as well as breakfast. # Ocho Rios, Port Antonio & the North Coast #### Reggae Beach to Boscobel Beach #### Oracabessa #### Galina Point & Little Bay #### Brimmer Hall #### Faith's Pen #### Mammee Bay #### St Ann's Bay #### Priory & Around #### Runaway Bay #### Discovery Bay #### Brown's Town #### Nine Mile #### Port Antonio to Fairy Hill #### Boston Bay #### Long Bay #### Reach Falls #### Manchioneal #### Moore Town #### Port Antonio to Buff Bay #### Charles Town #### Annotto Bay #### Robin's Bay # Ocho Rios, Port Antonio & the North Coast ### Why Go? Ocho Rios, Jamaica's third-largest town, dominates the north coast's tourist scene. Cruise ships land passengers in huge numbers here, and if the town can sometimes feel a little like a theme park, visitors are at least drawn for good reason – the surrounding area features some of the most beautiful (and popular) natural attractions on the island. From working plantations to sights unveiling the breadth of Jamaican history, there's plenty to keep you occupied. By comparison, sleepy Portland is by far the least developed resort area in Jamaica, yet also the most rugged and scenic. Forested mountains with deep gorges and rushing rivers spread their fingers towards fringes of white sand and cool-blue surf that rolls into beach-lined coves. The folks are friendly and the hustle small. From Port Antonio, you can explore gorgeous but untouristed beaches, or head into the mountains and rainforest for hiking and bird-watching. ### When to Go **Feb** The weather will be (relatively) dry and you'll have a chance to see the Fi Wi Sinting festival. **Aug–Oct** Although the rains are vicious, you'll also likely get good wind for serious adventure surfing. **Dec–Mar** Even in the high season this region doesn't see nearly as many crowds as the rest of Jamaica. ### Best Places to Eat AToscanini AWhalers ABoston Bay jerk stands ADickie's Best Kept Secret AMille Fleurs ### Best Places to Stay AReggae Hostel AGee Jam AAmbassabeth Cabins AGreat Huts ACottage at Te Moana ## Ocho Rios PopOcho Rios, Port Antonio & the North Coast Highlights 17,000 / Ocho Rios, Port Antonio & the North Coast Highlights Wrapped around a small bay with postcard-worthy snugness, Ocho Rios is a former fishing village that the Jamaica Tourist Board developed for tourism in the mid-1980s. The frequent docking of cruise ships at the central pier that commands the town's focus gives 'Ochi' a decidedly 'packaged' feel, spiced up by the regular entreaties of 'guides' and souvenir sellers. However, it's also endowed the town with an international eating scene and two distinct kinds of nightlife: rough-and-ready dancehall clubs and beach sound-systems versus karaoke nights and all-you-can-drink swimwear parties. The choice is yours. The town makes an excellent base for active, solvent travelers who wish to explore the north coasts and partake in slick, well-managed 'adventures' such as zip-line tours, horseback riding and waterfall climbing. History The name Ocho Rios is a corruption of the Spanish term _chorreros_ ('swift water'). Not only was the area west of Ocho Rios the site of Columbus' first landing in Jamaica and the first Spanish settlement, it also saw Spain's last stand in Jamaica at nearby Rio Nuevo. It was here that the British instituted huge slave-run sugar and pimento (allspice) plantations, crops that defined the region until the mid-20th century, when bauxite mining and tourism took over. Ocho Rios 1Sights 1Clock TowerD2 2Fishermen's BeachA4 3Island VillageA4 4Island Village BeachA3 5Ocho Rios BayB3 2Activities, Courses & Tours 6Garfield Diving StationC2 Island Village BeachA3 4Sleeping 7Hibiscus LodgeE1 8Mystic RidgeB5 9Reggae HostelB4 10RoomsC3 11Silver SeasE1 5Eating 12Almond Tree RestaurantF1 Blue MontA4 13Centre SpotE1 14Evita'sA5 15Healthy WayC3 16Juici PattiesD3 17Ocho Rios Jerk CentreC5 18Passage to IndiaB4 19Tropical KitchenC4 20WhalersA4 21World of FishD2 6Drinking & Nightlife 22Jimmy Buffett's MargaritavilleA4 23John Crow's TavernB4 24Ocean's 11 Watering HoleA3 3Entertainment 25AmnesiaE2 26BlitzE2 27NexusB4 28Roof ClubD2 7Shopping 29Ocho Rios Craft ParkC3 30Olde Craft MarketC4 31Vibes Music ShackC4 1Sights & Activities oDunn's River FallsWATERFALL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876 974-2857; www.dunnsriverfallsja.com; adult/child US$20/12; h8:30am-4pm Sat-Tue, 7am-4pm Wed-Fri) These famous falls, 3km west of town, are Jamaica's top-grossing tourist attraction. Great throngs of people can sometimes make it can seem more like a theme park than a natural wonder, but this doesn't make the climb up the falls any less exhilarating. You clamber up great tiers of limestone that step down 180m in a series of beautiful cascades and pools. The water is refreshingly cool, with everything shaded by tall rainforest. Guides can help with the climb (tip expected), but aren't strictly necessary; although the current is strong in places, the ascent is easily achieved by most able-bodied people. Swimwear is essential. There are changing rooms, and you can rent lockers (J$500) and jelly shoes (J$500). The park also includes food stalls and a restaurant, kid's playground, and a hard-selling craft market. Try to visit when the cruise ships aren't in dock, and ideally when the gates open in the morning. Route taxis (J$100) from Ocho Rios to St Ann's Bay can drop you at the entrance. oMystic MountainTHEME PARK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.rainforestbobsledjamaica.com; adult/child US$47/23; h9am-4pm) Mystic Mountain is one of Ochi's biggest attractions, featuring a series of zip lines crisscrossing the forest in a superb canopy tour, as well as the signature 'bobsled' ride through the dense foliage. The park begins with the Sky Explorer chairlift through the forest, with views of the coastline along the way. As well as the adrenaline rushes of the bobsled and zipline, there's also an excellent exhibition on Jamaican sport, a contemporary Caribbean restaurant and an infinity pool with water slide. Prices add up quickly: a Sky Explorer and Bobsled combo is US$69; a Sky Explorer and Zipline combo is US$115, whereas a combination of all three is US$137. Avoid the park on cruise ship days. Mystic Mountain is 3km west of Ocho Rios; to get here, catch a route taxi heading towards St Ann's Bay (J$100). Dolphin CoveDOLPHIN ENCOUNTER ( %974-5335; www.dolphincovejamaica.com; admission US$45, dolphin packages US$69-195; h8:30am-5:30pm) This cove, popular with cruise passengers and adjacent to Dunn's River Falls, allows you to swim with dolphins. Basic admission includes an aquarium, mini-zoo, snorkeling with stingrays, and paddling in glass-bottomed kayaks. There are several dolphin 'packages,' including stroking the animals to free-swimming. Note that the Jamaica Environmental Trust and cetacean conservation organizations oppose the display of these highly intelligent animals, which in the wild travel hundreds of kilometers a day in complex social groups. Most dolphins on display in Jamaica were wild-captured. Coyaba River Garden & Mahoe FallsGARDEN (www.coyabagardens.com; Shaw Park Rd; admission adult/child J$1000/500; h8am-6pm) _Coyaba_ being the Arawak word for 'paradise,' this garden seems aptly named, its walkways and trails leading past pools and streams through the best-kept gardens in Ocho Rios. The thoughtful **Coyaba Museum** traces Jamaica's history, and there are splendid panoramic views from Ysassi's Lookout Point, adjoining the Mahoe Falls, an attractive waterfall suitable for swimming. Coyaba is nearly 2km west of St John's Church (on the A3); follow the signs. Shaw Park GardensGARDEN (www.shawparkgardens.com; admission J$1000; h8am-5pm) This is a tropical fantasia of ferns and bromeliads, palms and exotic shrubs, spread out over 11 hectares centered on an 18th-century great house. Trails and wooden steps lead past waterfalls that tumble in terraces down the hillside. A viewing platform offers a bird's-eye vantage over Ocho Rios. The gardens are signed from opposite the public library on the A3. Island VillageENTERTAINMENT CENTER ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-8353; village/beach free/J$200; h9am-midnight) Since its 2002 opening, this self-contained entertainment park, has changed the face of Ocho Rios. The 2-hectare development claims to resemble a 'Jamaican coastal village.' It doesn't remotely, but you'll still find a peaceful beach, upscale craft shops, a cinema, Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville bar and Blue Mont ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Island Village; meals J$700; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) cafe, and an amphitheater for live performances. rBeaches Ocho Rios BayBEACH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; admission J$200; h8am-5pm; #) The main beach of Ocho Rios, popular with tourists, is the long fenced-off crescent known variously as **Turtle Beach** and Ocho Rios Bay, stretching east from the Turtle Towers condominiums to the Renaissance Jamaica Grande Resort. There are changing rooms and palms for shade. Island Village BeachBEACH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; admission J$250; h6am-6pm) Island Village Beach, located at the west end of Main St, is a peaceful, smaller beach with lockers, towels, beach chairs and umbrellas for hire. Also on offer is a complete range of water sports. Fishermen's BeachBEACH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) F Immediately west of Island Village Beach is the tiny public Fishermen's Beach, with colorful fishing boats and several eateries serving fresh fish and more. Mahogany BeachBEACH ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) F The small and charming Mahogany Beach, 1km east of the town center, is particularly popular with locals; it comes to life on weekends with loud music, smells of jerk cooking and impromptu football matches. 2Activities Virtually the entire shoreline east of Ocho Rios to Galina Point is fringed by a reef, and it's great for snorkeling and scuba diving. One of the best sections is **Devil's Reef** , a pinnacle that drops more than 60m. Nurse sharks are abundant at **Caverns** , a shallow reef about 1km east of the White River estuary; it has many tunnels plus an ex-minesweeper, the _Kathryn_. Most resorts have their own scuba facilities. As well as operators listed here, upscale hotels also offer water sports. Garfield Diving StationDIVING ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %395-7023; www.garfielddiving.com; Turtle Beach) Ocho Rios' longest-running water sports operator with 29 years' experience. Dive packages include one-tank dives (US$50), PADI certification courses (UD$420) and wreck dives. Other activities offered include snorkeling excursions, glass-bottom boat rides, and jet-ski rental. Boat charter is available for deep-sea fishing (half day for up to four people US$500). Cool RunningsWATER SPORTS ( %376-4310; www.coolrunningscatamarans.com; 1 Marvins Park, Ocho Rios) Specializes in catamaran cruises, including the the Dunn's River Falls Cruise (US$80; h12:30-4pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat), which includes an hour's snorkeling and entry to the falls, and the Catamaran Sunset Sail (US$65), with drinks and buffet dinner. Resort DiversDIVING ( %881-5760; www.resortdivers.com; Royal DeCameron Club Caribbean, Runaway Bay; 1-/2-tank dive US$50/95, snorkeling US$30) Dive packages available with pickup from your accommodation for an additional US$10 to US$15. Island Village BeachWATER SPORTS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Island Village; h8am-4pm) Rents snorkeling gear (J$1500 per day), kayaks (single/double J$1000/1500 per hour), windsurfing gear (J$5000 for 30 minutes) and Hobie Cats (J$3500 for 30 minutes). TTours The Ocho Rios area offers more organized outdoor adventure tours than any other Jamaican resort area. All operators offer transportation from hotels. Chukka Caribbean Adventure ToursADVENTURE TOURS ( %972-2506; www.chukkacaribbean.com/jamaica; tour incl lunch/high tea US$29/39) Established adventure specialist offering horseback-riding tours, river tubing, zip-line canopy tours, ATV safaris, trips to Bob Marley's birthplace at Nine Mile and even dog-sleigh tours. HoovesHORSE RIDING ( %972-0905; www.hooves-jamaica.com; half-day horseback tour incl refreshments J$6000) Offers guided horseback tours from the Maima Seville Great House to the beach, with a bareback ride into the sea (beginners welcome) and the 'honeymoon ride,' which includes a beach meal with fizz. Reservations required. Blue Mountain Bicycle ToursCYCLING ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-7075; www.bmtoursja.com; 121 Main St; Blue Mountain downhill tour adult/child US$108/75) Exhilarating downhill cycling tour of the Blue Mountains, week-long eco-adventures in Portland and tours of Kingston. zFestivals & Events Fat Tyre FestivalSPORTS (www.smorba.com; hFeb) This rip-roaring mountain-bike race and festival is the nation's premier mountain-biking festival, and is definitely not for the weak of heart (or calves). Follow Di ArrowMUSIC ( hFeb) Annual dancehall music event featuring big local artists, held at James Bond Beach on the last weekend in February. Bacchanal JamaicaCARNIVAL (www.bacchanaljamaica.com; hEaster) Part of the nationwide carnival season. Celebrated in a big way in Ocho Rios, this riotous all-night party featuring soca music is held at Chukka Cove. Beach J'ouvertMUSIC ( hApr) Popular soca music night held at James Bond Beach during the carnival season, with all-night revelry and paint throwing. Ocho Rios Jazz FestivalMUSIC (www.ochoriosjazz.com; hJun) This eight-day event every June (which actually tries to cover the whole island, with events in Kingston, Port Antonio, Montego Bay, Negril and the south coast) draws some of the biggest names in jazz and stages concerts under the stars. 4Sleeping Villas of varying ranges of opulence are represented by Sun Villas ( %888-625-6007, 544-9497, in the USA 941-922-9191; www.sunvillas.com; 1410 South Lake Shore Dr, Sarasota, FL), Jamaican Association of Villas & Apartments (JAVA; %in the US 800-845-5276; www.villasinjamaica.com) and Royal Plantation ( %in the UK 800-022-3773, in the USA 877-845-5275; www.uniquevillasofjamaica.com). oReggae HostelGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2607; www.reggaehostel.com; 19 Main St; r US$60, dm US$20; p a W) A new offshoot of the popular Kingston hostel, this relaxed guesthouse is perfectly located in the centre of Ocho Rios. There's a good mix of simple private rooms (air-con) and dorms (fan only), and a rooftop bar and lounge area that's ideal for socializing. The manager is a font of local knowledge for backpacker-friendly excursions. Little Shaw Park Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( %974-2177; www.littleshawparkguesthouse.com; 21 Shaw Park Rd; r US$45-55, apt US$65, ste US$75; p a W) This retreat, set among beautifully tended lawns and a garden overflowing with bougainvillea, remains a popular option. The furniture is somewhat worn, and the cheaper rooms (fan only) are spacious but rather dark, but the studio apartments with kitchens are great value for money. While away the day in the gazebo or one of the hammocks. Meals available on request. Mahoe Villa & GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-6613; 11 Shaw Park Rd; r without/with bathroom US$30/40; p W) This large guest house on the hill up to Cinchona, run by the effusive Michael and replete with original works of art, is decent value for money. The spic-and-span, fan-cooled rooms share a communal kitchen, and a chilled vibe prevails. RoomsRESORT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2008; www.roomsresorts.com; Main St; r incl breakfast US$88-112; p a i s) In the center of Turtle Beach, this family-friendly resort has all the trappings of an all-inclusive without being one. Everything (apart from breakfast) – from meals to internet access to water sports – costs extra, but the location is superb, the beachfront pool and gym are bonuses and the spacious rooms boast sea or pool views. oCottage at Te MoanaCOTTAGE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2870; www.harmonyhall.com; cottages US$150-170; p a) With its small clifftop garden overhanging a reef, this exquisite reclusive property with two delightful cottages offers a wonderful alternative to Ochi's resorts. Think wicker furniture and artistic aesthetics. Both cottages have fully equipped kitchens, separate living areas, plus verandas with hammocks. Steps lead down to a coral cove good for snorkeling, and kayaks are available. Three-night stay minimum. Mystic RidgeRESORT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-8050; www.mysticridgejamaica.com; 17 DaCosta Dr; r US$125, ste US$145, apt US$260; p a W s) This modern hilltop resort (formerly Crane Ridge), features spacious and cheery suites and two-bedroom apartments. The airy June Plum restaurant serves Jamaican dishes with an emphasis on fresh fruit. There's a pool-side bar and the very relaxing Samambaia spa, plus a shuttle service to the beach. Special entry packages to Mystic Mountain are also available to guests. Hibiscus LodgeHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2676; www.hibiscusjamaica.com; 83 Main St; r US$150-192; p n a i s) A stairway descends alongside a cliff overhang, past flowering gardens overflowing with bougainvillea, and down to a private sunning deck, perfect for a spontaneous jump in the sea. A small gallery of contemporary Jamaican art complements the main building nicely. Rooms are modestly furnished; deluxe ones are worth the extra expense for their large private balconies. There's also a breezy bar and the Almond Tree restaurant. Silver SeasHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2755; www.silverseashotel.com; 66 James Ave; r US$135; p a s) Ocho Rios' first-ever luxury resort is somewhat worn and creaky, but wonderfully atmospheric and welcoming to families. Inside the colonial-style building with a cavernous hall with creaky wooden floors, each well-kept room has a large, private patio with a stellar ocean view. Dining takes place on the waterfront patio and there's good snorkeling to be had off the jetty. oJamaica InnGUESTHOUSE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2514; www.jamaicainn.com; ste US$523-823, cottages US$1112-1586; p n a W s) Winston Churchill's favorite hotel (echoed in the colonial-era prints and furnishings) this exquisite family-run 'inn,' tucked in a private cove, exudes patrician refinement. There's a library and a bar with a warm clubby feel, and on-site spa. Dining requires a jacket and tie for men. Water sports include scuba diving, snorkeling and fishing. Breakfast, half- and full-board available on request. Blue HouseGUESTHOUSE ( %994-1367; www.thebluehousejamaica.com; White River Bay; r US$180-260; p a i W s) This gem offers luxurious bedrooms in cool blue hues. The separate two-bedroom Cozy Cottage provides even greater seclusion, with its private patio and hammock hidden behind a curtain of flowers. Darryl the Barefoot Chef cooks up superb fusion cuisine, drawing on Chinese and Indian influences, and the lavish three-course dinners are worth every penny. Couples Sans Souci Resort & SpaRESORT ( %994-1206; www.couples.com; A3; d US$735-745, ste US$756-1341, cottages US$1391; p n a i s) On the A3, east of town, this resort has a sublime setting in a secluded cove. The top-end suites have spa baths and one of the two beaches is for nude bathing. Rates include gourmet dining, trips to Ochi's attractions, and all the golf you can play. Charlie's Spa is set on mineral springs rumored to have rejuvenating powers. The huge range of water sports on offer includes scuba lessons. 5Eating Ocho Rios has a good range of international cuisine and several economical Jamaican restaurants; many places are open late. After dark, you'll find many smoking oil-drum barbecues along the roadside, particularly in the area surrounding the clock tower ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ). oWhalersSEAFOOD ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Fishermen's Beach; meals J$800-1000; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Rising up above the wooden shacks on tiny Fishermen's Beach, adjacent to Island Village and awaft with ganja smoke, this cheerful eatery with an upstairs terrace is the best place in town for fresh fish dishes. Besides the fish that comes in steamed, brown stew or escoveitch form, there is delicious conch soup (lunchtimes only) and breakfast specials such as ackee and saltfish. Great, if occasionally grungy. Ocho Rios Jerk CentreJERK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2549; 16 DaCosta Dr; meals J$550-1000; hlunch & dinner) Its deserved popularity further boosted by it being the official Knutsford Express stop, the liveliest jerk joint in town serves excellent jerk pork (J$390), chicken (J$390) and conch (J$850), as well as BBQ ribs. There are daily specials, the best being curry goat (J$450) and goat head soup (J$100). Grab a Red Stripe and watch sports on the big-screen TV while you're waiting for your jerk. 'Spicy Fridays' feature weekly DJ sets (free entry) and the last Friday of the month is Retro/Soca Nite. Lion's DenJAMAICAN ( %848-4413; A3; meals J$650-1000; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) West of town between Dolphin Cove and Dunn's River Falls, this place looks like a tourist trap but is worth a stop for the excellent, well-priced Jamaican fare and unique, artistic decor. The dining room resembles a Rastafarian chapel with hand-carved columns and wicker 'tree limbs' reaching to the ceiling. The menu boasts local specialties such as curry goat, stew pork and dumplings, and fried chicken. Scotchies TooJERK ( %794-9457; Jack's Hall Fair Ground; meals J$500-700; hlunch & dinner) This roadside offshoot of the famous jerk center in Montego Bay lies adjacent to an Epping Gas station just west of Dunn's River Falls. Its pork and chicken, smoked over pimento wood, water the mouths of locals and visitors alike; the jerk sausage is also worth investigating. Accompaniments include roast breadfruit, festival (sweet fried cornbread) and yam. Centre SpotJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876 323-0042; 75E Main St; meals J$400-500; hbreakfast & lunch) This unassuming hole-in-the-wall place whips up local favorites such as curried goat; specials include the ever-popular cow head, tripe and beans and cow foot. For breakfast, if you're hungry consider the porridge – a cup of the cornmeal or peanut variety really sticks to your ribs – or the ackee and saltfish. World of FishSEAFOOD ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876 974-1863; 3 James Ave; meals J$850; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Popular with locals, this casual and economical eatery has been serving fried fish, stew fish and steamed fish for years. Get it with bammy (cassava flatbread), rice and peas or festival. Healthy WayVEGETARIAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876 974-9229; Ocean Village Plaza; meals J$650; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Sat; v) A vegetarian kitchen and health-food store selling herbs, teas, I-tal juices and supplements, plus hearty chow such as a delicious tofu cheeseburger, stew peas and large fruit plates to go. Tropical KitchenBAKERY ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Main St; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; v) Cakes, pastries and the best potato pudding on the north coast. Juici PattiesJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 1 Newlin St; patties J$80-120; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) The local branch of the best patty chain on the island, serving coco bread as well as cheese, beef, chicken, shrimp and lobster patties. Almond Tree RestaurantINTERNATIONAL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2813; Hibiscus Lodge, 83 Main St; meals J$1200-3000; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Providing a splendid perch for a sunset dinner, this clifftop spot features a dining pavilion that steps down the cliffside. Candlelit dinners are served alfresco. The menu ranges from seafood and continental fare, such as steaks and cheeseburgers, to steadfast Jamaican dishes. Evita'sITALIAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2333; Eden Bower Rd; meals J$1400-2500; hlunch & dinner; v) This slightly overpriced charmer sits high above Ochi in a romantically decorated 1860s house – an airy setting with exquisite views. The Italian-Jamaican menu includes jerk spaghetti, the ackee and callaloo 'Lasagna Rastafari' and the delectable, fish- and seafood-filled 'Lasagna Capitano.' Lighter dishes include a selection of salads; half-portions of the pasta dishes are also available. Bibibips Bar & GrillINTERNATIONAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; 93 Main St; meals J$1000-3000; hlunch & dinner) This popular, touristy oceanfront bar and restaurant with a porch overlooking Mahogany Beach serves up a range of tasty seafood, burgers, jerk and barbecue dishes that don't quite live up to their pricing. Wash it down with a cocktail from the extensive list. oToscaniniITALIAN ( %975-4785; Harmony Hall; meals J$3300-4600; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun; v) One of the finest restaurants on the island, this roadside spot is run by two gracious Italians who use the freshest local ingredients in recipes from the motherland. The proprietress greets all the guests and explains the use of local herbs in the cooking. The daily menu ranges widely, encompassing such appetizers as prosciutto with papaya or marinated marlin and mains like garlic lobster pasta, or shrimp sautéed with garlic and Appleton rum. Leave room for sumptuous desserts such as strawberry tart or profiteroles. Treat yourself! Passage to IndiaINDIAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %795-3182; Soni's Plaza, 50 Main St; meals J$1800-3200; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun, lunch Mon; v) On the rooftop of a duty-free shopping center, Passage to India offers respite from the crowds below in addition to very good northern Indian fare. The naan is crisp, the lassis flavorful, the curries sharp, and the menu divided into extensive chicken, mutton, seafood and vegetarian sections. Tandoori options are also on offer. 6Drinking & Nightlife There's a healthy bar scene and a decent choice of nightspots, but in general Ochi lacks the after-hours verve of Negril or the authenticity of Kingston. Nonetheless, it's not hard to find a good party atmosphere _somewhere_ on any night of the week. Many all-inclusive resorts sell night passes permitting full access to meals, drinks and entertainment. Jimmy Buffett's MargaritavilleBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-675-8800; Island Village; h11am-4am daily) This corporate franchise has turned getting drunk into big business. The music is loud and the signature margaritas don't come cheap, but many tourists find the orchestrated good-time vibe to be irresistible. Admission is charged for special events, such as Wednesday's Wet'n'Wild Pool Party (J$2000, half-price entry for guests in swimwear). Although Margaritaville 'goes until you say when,' things wind up earlier when there's no ship in town. Ocean's 11 Watering HoleBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Fisherman's Point) With its prime spot on the pier, it's little surprise that Ocean's 11 is popular with cruise-ship passengers, who knock back the potent cocktails and cheer each other on during Tuesday night karaoke. The upstairs space doubles as a small art gallery and coffee shop, and serves excellent Blue Mountain coffee, which you can also purchase by the pound. H20BAR (Shop 22, Coconut Grove Shopping Centre; hnoon-4am) Run by reggae singer Tanya Stephens, this inviting resto-bar specializes in vegetarian and seafood dishes during the day, and fills up by night when locals and visitors alike stream in for the music events. Live band karaoke takes place on Friday nights, the H2O Flow event on Saturdays features appearances from local and international artists, while Sunday is the night to live out the glory days of reggae, ska and mento. John Crow's TavernSPORTS BAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 10 Main St) The big TV above the bar screens the latest football games and the outdoor terrace is perfect for a beer, burger and a spot of people-watching. NexusCLUB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 8 Main St; h9pm-4am Tue & Fri, 7-11pm Sun) Rooftop lounge that comes to life on cruise-ship days. Tuesday is Ladies' Night, Friday features local DJs and the street reverberates with the pounding beats. Live bands on Sunday play a mix. 3Entertainment On the A3 east of town, the **White River Reggae Park** infrequently hosts sound systems. **Priory Beach** has a regular Sunday sound system on the beach (7pm onwards). Also look for posters around town advertising live music or sound systems at **Reggae Beach**. AmnesiaDANCEHALL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876 974-2633; 70 Main St; admission J$350-550; hWed-Sun) A classic Jamaican dancehall, this remains the happening scene. Theme nights include an oldies jam on Sunday, ladies' night on Thursday and an after-work party on Friday. This is all leading up to Saturday's dress-to-impress all-night dance marathon. Expect lots of sweat, a tightly packed dance floor and some of the raunchiest dancing you've ever seen. BlitzDANCEHALL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 60 Main St; admission J$500; h10pm-6am Tue & Fri) Though this is essentially an after-party for the Ocean 11's karaoke crowd on Tuesday, on Friday be prepared to wind and grind your way through the batty-rider and puss-boot-clad local crowd at the weekly 'Thank God It's Friday' (admission free for women) dancehall event. Big names perform occasionally. Roof ClubDANCEHALL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 7 James Ave; admission J$300) The gritty Roof sends earth-shattering music across the roofs of town; it's the place to get down and dirty with the latest dancehall moves. It can get rough. 7Shopping Sellers of hawk mix CDs of the latest sounds on Turtle Beach and along Main St, where crafts vendors also sell their goods, though for the more exceptional souvenirs you'll have to travel further out. Olde Craft MarketCRAFTS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Main St) A better (and less expensive) choice than the rows and rows of identical crafts at other craft parks, this market features quality ceramics and art, as well as the usual T-shirts with chirpy Jamaican slogans and Rasta tams with fake dreadlocks attached. Harmony HallART ( %975-4222; www.harmonyhall.com; h10am-5:30pm Tue-Sun) Art gallery featuring the best of local art, located 7km east of Ocho Rios. Renowned for its Christmas, Easter and mid-November craft fairs, and regular exhibitions. Ocho Rios Craft ParkSOUVENIRS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Main St) For all your tacky T-shirt, batik, wooden sculpture and crafts-made-of-coconut-shells needs. Some of the sellers also sell quality music-mix CDs. Wassi ArtCRAFTS ( %546-3197; Bonham Spring) Excellent pottery and ceramics. Free tours are offered, detailing the entire process including clay processing, painting and firing. Reggae YardSOUVENIRS (Island Village) Reggae wear in Rasta colors, Usain Bolt T-shirts, and a good selection of reggae music. Vibes Music ShackMUSIC STORE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Ocean Village Plaza) Reggae and dancehall CDs, as well as some mento and calypso. Information Dangers & Annoyances Good humor and a firm 'no' should be enough to deal with the persistent taxi drivers, hustlers and would-be tour guides. Avoid the area immediately behind the produce market, south of the clock tower and the seedy, poorly lit James Ave, a hang-out strip of ill repute. Use caution at night anywhere. Emergency Police StationPOLICE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2533) Off DaCosta Dr, just east of the clock tower. Internet Access Computer WhizzINTERNET (Shop 11, Island Plaza; per 30min/1hr J$150/250; h8:30am-7:30pm Mon-Sat) Has 10 computers as well as wi-fi access for those with own laptops. Medical Services Kulkarni Medical ClinicMEDICAL ( %974-3357; 16 Rennie Rd) Private practice, between RBTT and Jamaica National Bank, used by upmarket hotels in the area. Pinegrove PharmacyPHARMACY ( %974-5586; Shop 5, Pinegrove Plaza; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) St Ann's Bay HospitalHOSPITAL ( %972-2272; Seville Rd) The nearest hospital. Money There are numerous banks along Main St, including Scotiabank. All have foreign-exchange facilities and ATMs. Post Post OfficePOST OFFICE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Main St; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) Opposite the Ocho Rios Craft Park. Tourist Office Tourist InformationTOURIST INFORMATION ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-7705; Shop 3, Ocean Village, Main St; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) Represents the Jamaica Tourist Board. Staff can help you suss out Ochi's transportation, lodging and attractions options. Also operates an information booth ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) on Main St, but it's open only when cruise ships are in port. Getting There & Away Air At the time of writing, the former Boscobel Airport, about 16km east of town, had just reopened as the Ian Fleming International Airport, expanded primarily to accommodate private jets, as well as chartered flights. Jamaica Air Shuttle ( %906-9026, 906-9030; www.jamaicaairshuttle.com) offers several weekly flights to Kingston. Public Transportation Buses, minibuses and route taxis arrive at and depart Ocho Rios at the transportation center ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Evelyn Rd). During daylight hours there are frequent departures (fewer on Sundays) for Kingston and destinations along the north coast. There is no set schedule: they depart when full. If heading to Port Antonio by bus, you will have to change buses at Port Maria (J$140) and possibly Annotto Bay. Sample destinations: **Discovery Bay** J$150, 35 minutes **Kingston** J$320, two hours **Montego Bay** J$500, 90 minutes **Port Maria** J$140, 50 minutes **Runaway Bay** J$140, 30 minutes **St Ann's Bay** J$100, 10 minutes Knutsford Express ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.knutsfordexpress.com) has scheduled departures to Kingston and Montego Bay from its office in the car park of the Ocho Rios Jerk Centre. Arrive half an hour prior to departure to register your ticket. Departures: **Kingston** (J$1200, two hours) 6:20am, 10:25am, 2:30pm and 6:30pm Monday to Friday; 7:20am and 5:55pm Saturday; 9:45am and 6pm Sunday. **Montego Bay** (J$1200, two hours) 7:45am, 11:20am, 3:45pm and 6:40pm Monday to Friday; 7:45am, 11:20am and 6pm Saturday; 10am and 6pm Sunday. Taxi JUTA ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2292) is the main taxi agency catering to tourists. A licensed taxi will cost about US$110 for Montego Bay, and about US$100 for Kingston (US$110 to the international airport at Kingston). Getting Around To/From the Airport There is no shuttle service from the airport to downtown. Local buses (J$100), and minibuses and route taxis (J$150) pass by. A tourist taxi will cost about J$2116. Car & Motorcycle Shopping malls along Main St have car parks, though not secure ones. Most hotels offer parking; all upmarket hotels offer secure parking. Main St during rush hour is one long traffic jam. Some car-rental outlets: Bargain Rent-a-CarCAR RENTAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-8047; Shop 1A Pineapple Place Shopping Centre, Main St) BudgetCAR RENTAL ( %974-1288; www.budgetjamaica.com; 15 Milford Rd) Public Transportation Minibuses and route taxis ply Main St and the coast road (J$80 for short hauls; J$150 to Boscobel or Mammee Bay). Taxi Chartered taxis are in great abundance along Main St. Negotiate the fare before setting off, as the drivers will quote any figure that comes to mind. If you want the driver to wait for you, do not hand over the full fare in advance. ## East of Ocho Rios The seaside resorts of Ocho Rios quickly give way to isolated villas and fishing villages like Port Maria as the coastal road winds its way east along cliffs and bluffs. The sense of leaving tourist Jamaica behind is enhanced by the drop in road quality. Drawn by its coastal beauty and unspoiled character, two of Jamaica's most famous visitors, author Noël Coward and James Bond creator Ian Fleming, made their homes in the area. While Coward settled in Firefly, with its spectacular view down on the coastline, Fleming found refuge at Goldeneye, now one of the island's most elegant hotels. ### Reggae Beach to Boscobel Beach East of Ocho Rios, habitations begin thinning out along the A3. Several beaches lie hidden below the cliffs; notable among them is Tower Isle, 9km east of Ocho Rios, with its cluster of resorts. The Rio Nuevo meets the ocean about 1km west of Tower Isle. 1Sights & Activities Prospect PlantationPLANTATION ( %994-1058; www.prospectplantationtours.com; tours J$2963; hMon-Sat) If you've been wondering why St Ann is called 'the garden parish,' you'll find your answer at this beautiful old hilltop great house and 405-hectare property, less working plantation and more tourist attraction, 5km east of town. On a pleasant, educational tour you'll travel by tractor-powered jitney through scenic grounds among banana, cassava, cocoa, coconut, coffee, pineapple and pimento. Dolphin Cove ( %974-5335; www.dolphincovejamaica.com) offers Prospect Plantation tours that include either a horseback (J$5418) or camelback ride (J$5418), an ostrich feeding session and a visit to Dunn's River Falls. Harmony HallART GALLERY ( %974-2870; www.harmonyhall.com; h10am-5:30pm Tue-Sun) A lovely pink gingerbread house on the A3 6km east of town, Harmony Hall dates to 1886 when it was a Methodist manse that adjoined a pimento estate. The restored structure is made of cut stone, with a wooden upper story trimmed with fretwork and a shingled roof with a spire. Reborn as an arts-and-crafts showcase, it holds shows in the Front Gallery throughout the year; an exhibition season runs mid-November to Easter. The Back Gallery features fine arts and crafts by local artists such as Albert Artwell and Cebert Christie. The acclaimed Toscanini Mediterranean restaurant is on the ground floor. Reggae BeachBEACH (admission J$100; h9am-5pm) Located east of Harmony Hall on the A3, this clean yellow-sand beach is hustler-free and popular with tourists only, due to the high admission rate. Kayaks are available for rent, and jerk chicken and fish are readily available. Raucous sound-system parties are held here now and then. Rio Nuevo Battle SiteHISTORIC SITE (admission J$424; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun) On the bluff west of the Rio Nuevo river mouth is this little-visited site where, in 1658, the English forces fought their decisive battle against the Spanish, sending them fleeing to Cuba. A plaque here records the events and there's a small exhibition on the area's historical heritage. Boscobel BeachBEACH This beach, 6km east of Rio Nuevo, is a hamlet dominated by Boscobel Beach Spa Resort & Golf Club, a resort especially geared towards families with young children. The Ian Fleming International Airport is located nearby. Jamaica BeachBEACH Between Tower Isle and Rio Nuevo, it is renowned for its dive sites offshore. The offshore reef, known as the Rio Nuevo Wall, supports turtles, barracudas and other marine life. Getting There & Away Minibuses and route taxis traveling between Ocho Rios and Oracabessa serve Rio Nuevo and Tower Isle (J$100). ### Oracabessa Pop 10,000 Taking its name from the Spanish _oro cabeza_ (golden head) Oracabessa, 21km east of Ocho Rios, is a small, one-street, one-story village with a vague aura of a Wild West town. The street itself is lined with Caribbean vernacular architecture, with wooden houses trimmed with fretwork. This was a major port for shipping bananas in the 19th century. While the boom era has passed, the town itself is far from derelict. Below Oracabessa is the marina (formerly a banana-loading port), in the lee of a tombolo on whose western flank pirogues and fishing boats bob at anchor. ### FLEMING...IAN FLEMING Ian Fleming, inventor of James Bond, first came to Jamaica in 1942 while serving with British Naval Intelligence. In 1946 he bought a house on the shore at Oracabessa and named it 'Goldeneye,' and he wintered here every year until his death in 1964. It was here that Fleming conceived agent 007, the creation of whom the author attributes to living in Jamaica. 'Would these books have been born if I had not been living in the gorgeous vacuum of a Jamaican holiday? I doubt it,' he would write later. All 14 of Fleming's James Bond novels were written here, and five were set in Jamaica. 'I was looking for a name for my hero,' he related, 'nothing like Peregrine Carruthers or Standfast Maltravers – and I found it, on the cover of one of my Jamaican bibles, _Birds of the West Indies_ by James Bond, an ornithological classic.' Without Jamaica, there would literally be no James Bond 007. The house is now part of Goldeneye hotel and can be rented. 1Sights James Bond BeachBEACH (adult/child J$500/250; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) The attractive strip of white sand hosts large-scale annual music events, such as **Follow Di Arrow** , **Beach J'ouvert** and **Fully Loaded** (watch out for event posters in Ocho Rios). During the week it's pretty quiet but on weekends, in particular, visitors flock to Stingray City ( %975-3354; adult/child J$4500/2500) to snorkel and swim with the resident stingrays or to take part in jet-ski safaris (J$6000) and glass-bottom boat rides (J$3000) along the coast. A small bar and restaurant provides refreshment. Adjacent to the Bond beach is **Fisherman's Beach** , a rootsy alternative where one can enjoy simple I-tal and seafood fare and the occasional sound-system party. Sun Valley PlantationPLANTATION ( %446-2026, 995-3075; tour incl snack J$1000; h9am-2pm) This working plantation and botanical farm is at Crescent on the B13, some 5km south of Oracabessa. Owners Lorna and Nolly Binns offer enjoyable garden tours in a plantation setting, which teach visitors about banana and sugar-cane – two staple crops that have played an important part in the development of the area. You can opt to visit the groves of coconuts – the current main crop – and other tropical fruits and medicinal herbs. 4Sleeping & Eating Tamarind Great HouseGUESTHOUSE ( %995-3252; www.tamarind.hostel.com; Crescent Estate; d US$74-120; p s) The hilltop setting for this 'plantation guest house' near Sun Valley Plantation is sublime, with lush valleys and mountains all around (there's a lovely walk to a local waterfall). The large bedrooms with four-poster beds open to a vast veranda. The excellent restaurant serves stick-to-your-ribs breakfasts and dinners. From Oracabessa, take Jack's River Rd; it's a rough 6km drive, but worth it. Nix-NaxGUESTHOUSE ( %975-3364; dm/r US$15/30) Northeast of the town center opposite a Seventh Day Adventist church, this inimitable hostelry offers cheerful dorms, rooms, and communal kitchens. Your host, Domenica, a Harlem transplant who has run the guest house for more than 20 years, prides herself on flexible arrangements for travelers, saying that it's a 'good place for the broke and busted.' Villa SakeGUESTHOUSE ( %368-1036; www.hostelsofjamaica.com; Opposite Ian Fleming Airport; r US$25-50) A small but charming hostel-style guest house opposite Ian Fleming. Villa Sake has just a handful of rooms and communal kitchen, and lounge area that virtually hangs over the waves of its own tiny private cove (there's a ladder running down the cliff to get to the sea). oGoldeneyeHOTEL ( %946-0958; www.goldeneye.com; ste US$850, 1-/2-/3-bedroom cottage US$1220/1520/2280, villa US$6800; p a W s) Jamaica's most exclusive property features eight villas, including Iam Fleming's abode, sprinkled across expansive grounds on a quaint cove. Additional waterfront cottages, built of wood and stone and painted in autumnal colors, have pampering yet discreet stewards. The two restaurants serve gourmet meals and there's an entertainment room for Bond movies, but the coup de grâce is the hotel's private island with beach and water sports. Immediately east of Oracabessa. Tropical HutJAMAICAN (Racecourse; mains J$300-800; hlunch & dinner) Popular local watering hole serving delicious Jamaican dishes. Information Oracabessa Medical CentreMEDICAL ( %975-3304; Vermont Ave; h8am-2:30pm Mon & Tue, 7am-noon Wed-Sat) By the Esso gas station at the east end of town. ScotiabankBANK (Main St) Bank with ATM. Getting There & Away Minibuses and route taxis pass through, en route between Ocho Rios (J$150, 25 minutes) and Annotto Bay (for Port Antonio). ### Galina Point & Little Bay Five kilometers east of Oracabessa, the A3 winds around the promontory of Galina Point. A 12m-high concrete lighthouse marks the headland. South of Galina you'll pass Noël Coward's first house, **Blue Harbour** , squatting atop 'the double bend,' where the road and shoreline take a 90-degree turn and open to a view of Cabarita Island. The road drops steeply from Blue Harbour to Kokomo Beach in Little Bay. The beach is unappealing, but the bay and around makes a more pleasant stopover than Port Maria if you wish to visit Firefly. 1Sights oFireflyHISTORIC BUILDING ( %997-7201, 994-0920; admission J$847; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat) Set amid wide lawns high atop a hill 5km east of Oracabessa and 5km west of Port Maria, Firefly was the home of Sir Noël Coward, the English playwright, songwriter, actor and wit, who was preceded at this site by the notorious pirate Sir Henry Morgan. When he died in 1973, Coward left the estate to his partner Graham Payn, who donated it to the nation. Your guide will lead you to Coward's art studio, where he was schooled in oil painting by Winston Churchill. The studio displays Coward's original paintings and photographs of himself and a coterie of famous friends. The drawing room, with the table still laid, was used to entertain such guests as the Queen Mother, Sophia Loren and Audrey Hepburn. The upper lounge features a glassless window that offers one of the most stunning coastal vistas in all Jamaica. The view takes in Port Maria Bay and the coastline further west. Contrary to popular opinion, Coward didn't write his famous song 'A Room with a View' here (it was written in Hawaii in 1928). Coward lies buried beneath a plain white marble slab on the wide lawns where he entertained many illustrious stars of stage and screen; a pensive statue of the man graces the lawn. ### NOëL COWARD'S PEENY-WALLY The multitalented Sir Noël Coward first visited Jamaica in 1944 on a two-week holiday. He found peace of mind here and dubbed his dream island 'Dr Jamaica.' Four years later he rented Ian Fleming's estate, Goldeneye, at Oracabessa, while he hunted for a site to build a home. In 1948 Coward bought a 3-hectare estate overlooking Little Bay near Galina and set to work building Coward's Folly, a three-story villa with two guest cottages, and a swimming pool at the sea's edge. He named his home Blue Harbour and invited his many notable friends, a virtual 'Who's Who' of the rich and famous. The swarm of visitors, however, eventually drove Coward to find another retreat. While painting with his lover Graham Payn at a place called Lookout (so-named because the pirate Henry Morgan had a stone hut built atop the hill to keep an eye out for Spanish galleons), Coward was struck by the impressive solitude and incredible view. The duo lingered until nightfall, when fireflies ('peeny-wallies' in the Jamaican dialect) appeared. Within two weeks Coward had bought the land, and eight years later he had a house built. He named it Firefly. Coward had spent 30 years in Jamaica, recording his love of the island and islanders on canvas in bright, splashy colors. When he suffered a heart attack at the age of 73, he was buried on the lawns of Firefly beneath a marble slab. Lines from his last poem, inscribed on one of Firefly's walls, are a suitable epitaph: 'When I have fears, as Keats had fears, Of the moment I'll cease to be/I console myself with vanished years, Remembered laughter, remembered tears/And the peace of the changing sea.' 4Sleeping & Eating Blue HarbourHOTEL ( %725-0289; www.blueharb.com; r per person US$70, full board US$120; p s) Once owned by Noël Coward, this is a pleasingly ramshackle retreat with a laid-back atmosphere, consisting of three villas by a tiny beach and saltwater pool. Spacious rooms feature some original furniture from Coward's day. Meals are served on a wide veranda with bay views and full board is worth it for the delicious home-cooked Jamaican specials. Little Bay InnHOTEL ( %373-5871, 994-2721; r J$2540-2963; p) On the main road, just at the turnoff for Firefly, this modest hotel offers 10 simple, fan-cooled rooms with double beds and private bathroom; the pricier rooms have TVs. There's a small restaurant and jerk center and the downstairs disco may keep you awake. Galina BreezeHOTEL ( %994-0537; www.galinabreeze.com; r US$100, ste US$120; p a W) This small hotel with superb views of the coast has just 14 light, spacious rooms, all equipped with firm king-size beds and cable TV. There's a restaurant, bar, and (just outside the main gate) a decent jerk stand. oBolt HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL ( %994-0303; www.bolthousejamaica.com; villa US$2200; p a W s) This secluded cliffside villa, is the ultimate in luxury. Offering the same spectacular views as nearby Goldeneye, it has an infinity pool, a yoga deck and private hiking trails on 18 hectares of land. The five rooms (four nights minimum stay) are splendidly decorated with contemporary art, and guests have access to Goldeneye's private beach. Fusion cuisine (US$60 per day) is served in the airy dining room and it's possible to dine at Goldeneye with 24 hours' notice. Getting There & Away Minibuses and route taxis pass through, en route between Ocho Rios (J$150, 25 minutes) and Annotto Bay (for Port Antonio). ### Brimmer Hall This 809-hectare working plantation ( %994-2309; 1-hr tour J$2540; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri), near Bailey's Vale, 10km southwest of Port Maria, grows bananas, coconuts, sugarcane, pineapple and citrus for export. It's centered on a wooden great house dating back to the 1700s, with an impressive interior furnished with oriental rugs and antique furniture, and even an original suit of armor. The one-hour plantation tours are in a canopied jitney. It is signed from the A3. ## South of Ocho Rios The A3 winds through sweeping pastoral country on its way south. At Moneague, the road meets up with the A1 from St Ann's Bay, continues over Mt Diablo and drops dramatically to Kingston. ### Faith's Pen South of Moneague, the A1 climbs steadily to Faith's Pen, 27km south of Ocho Rios. Pull into the little side road parallel to the main road and choose your meal from the many shacks offering jerk pork and chicken, fried fish and fresh fruit juices. You'll be immediately surrounded by the competitive roadside cooks; insist on sampling the wares first. **Shack 2** is best for soursop juice (J$250 a bottle) while **shack 8** is great for jerk pork and accompaniments. The road continues up the pine-forested slopes of **Mt Diablo** (839m). At 686m the A1 crests the mountain chain and begins its steep, winding descent to **Ewarton** and the lush Rosser Valley, beautiful when seen from these heights. ## West of Ocho Rios ### Mammee Bay Formerly a favorite with Jamaican beachgoers, Mammee Bay – 5.5km west of Ocho Rios and 4km east of St Ann's Bay – has several little beaches, some hidden away, but is now firmly dominated by the monolithic Club Hotel Riu Ocho Rios. Much of the beachfront is a private residential estate, but access is offered to the public beaches. At **Laughing Waters** – also called Roaring River – 1km east of Mammee Bay and 1km west of Dunn's River Falls, a river appears from rocks amid a shallow ravine about 3km from the sea and spills to a charming little **beach** (admission free). This is where Ursula Andress famously appeared as Honey Ryder, dripping with brine, in the James Bond movie _Dr No_. Look for the large fenced-in electrical power structure beside the A3. Follow the river to the beach. Public access to the falls is by foot, though sometimes access to the beach is blocked by guards stationed along the road. ### St Ann's Bay Pop 12,400 In 1509 the Spaniards built the first Spanish settlement on the island about 700m west of St Ann's Bay, at Sevilla la Nueva. The site was abandoned within four decades and it was later developed as a sugar estate by a British planter. Other planters established sugar estates nearby, and the town grew and prospered as a bustling seaport with forts on opposite sides of the bay. Marcus Garvey, founder of the Black Nationalist movement, was born here and is honored each August 17 with a parade. 1Sights Up the hill from the Columbus Monument is the exquisite Catholic church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help ( GOOGLE MAP ) ), built in contemporary Spanish design by an Irish priest in 1939 with stones recovered from the ruins of Sevilla la Nueva. At the corner of Market St is the courthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ) ), erected in elegant cut limestone and red brick in 1866 with a pedimented porch bearing the scales of justice. Across the way is the market ( GOOGLE MAP ) ), which gets busy on Friday and Saturday. Further west lies quaint St Ann's Bay Baptist Church ( GOOGLE MAP ) ). Statues at either end of St Ann's Bay provide neat book-ends to the town's history: Columbus ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) stands at one end, Garvey at the other. oMaima Seville Great House & Heritage ParkHISTORIC SITE (admission J$500; h9am-4pm Sat & Sun) This historical park overlooking the sea, less than 1km west of present-day St Ann's, marks the site of the first Spanish capital on the island – Sevilla la Nueva – and one of the first Spanish settlements in the New World. It houses a fascinating great house, plantation remains and reconstructions of Taíno houses, African slave houses and a slave kitchen garden. When the English captured Jamaica from the Spanish, the land on which Sevilla la Nueva had been built was granted to army officer Richard Hemming. The estate was developed for sugar, and was dominated by the Seville Great House, built in 1745 by Hemming's grandson. The family tombs are outside, and next to them a memorial to the slaves whose remains were discovered and reburied here in 1997. The restored house contains an engaging museum depicting the history of the site from Taíno times through the era of slavery and the colonial period. Traces of the original Spanish buildings, including a church and the castle-house of the first Spanish governor, are visible, along with the ruins of the English sugar mills and overseer's house. This was also the site of the Taíno village of Maima; the inhabitants were forced to work as serfs under the Spanish encomienda system, and quickly died out through a combination of disease, overwork and suicide. The best way to explore the sprawling property is by joining a Hooves horseback tour that ends with a jaunt into the sea. zFestivals & Events Rebel SaluteMUSIC (www.rebelsaluteja.com) The biggest Roots Reggae concert in Jamaica goes down on the second Saturday in January at Richmond Estate. Emancipation JubileeCULTURAL ( hJul 31-Aug 1) Held annually on the grounds of Maima Seville Great House overnight from July 31 to August 1. Celebrations consist of dancing and traditional folk music, such as Kumina and mento. 4Sleeping & Eating There are street **food stalls** along Main St dishing up fish tea and jerk. High Hope EstateB&B ( %972-2277; www.highhopeestate.com; r US$185-225; p n i s) This beautiful Venetian-style villa is set in large woodland grounds high in the hills above St Ann's Bay. Each of its five rooms is decorated with antiques, and three have wonderful ocean views and verandas. There's a well-stocked library for browsing and fabulous meals on request (Jamaica and Italian dishes are a speciality; cooking courses also available). Seafood SpecialistSEAFOOD ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; cnr Jail Lane & A1; meals J$500-850; hlunch & dinner) Wholesome local fare such as brown stew, plus excellent steamed or fried fish with yams and rice and peas, washed down with natural juices. Juici PattiesJAMAICAN ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Main St; patties J$90) Sells patties of all varieties as well as lunch mains like saltfish and stews. Information Police StationPOLICE (cnr Main & Braco Sts) ScotiabankBANK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; 18 Braco St) Has a 24-hour ATM. St Ann's Bay Public General HospitalHOSPITAL ( %972-2272) At the far west end of Main St, with an emergency clinic. Getting There & Away Route taxis run throughout the day for Ocho Rios (J$100, 10 minutes) and Montego Bay (J$350, 90 minutes), via Falmouth. ### Priory & Around Priory, about 1.5km west of St Ann's Bay, has a small beach with water sports and several hotels. You can turn inland and head into the hills for views down the coast. Here you'll find Lilyfield Great House, about 8km east of Brown's Town. 1Sights & Activities Chukka Cove FarmADVENTURE CENTER (J$7195) This former polo field west of Priory is now the home of Chukka Caribbean Adventures ( %972-2506; www.chukkacaribbean.com), which offers an ever-growing list of guided excursions and adventures. The trips are sometimes a mite crowded, but the quality of service and expertise of the guides is high. Chukka works closely with a dog-rescue center, and offers 'dog-sledding' on land, the exhilarating 50km/h buggy ride pulled by a trained dog team. Other popular excursions include the three-hour Horseback Ride 'n Swim (US$79), which culminates with an exciting bareback trot into the sea; River Tubing Safari (US$65); and Zip Line Tour (US$99). Rates include transfer from Ocho Rios. In April, Chukka Cove Farm hosts the exuberant all-night **Carnival party** , complete with soca music and paint throwing, though purists are grumbling about the introduction of dancehall to the event. H'Evans ScentADVENTURE CENTER ( %564-6467; www.hevansscent.com; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) In the tiny hill town of Free Hill, 10km south of Priory, this evolving ecotourism experiment is the brainchild of Derek Evans, better known in the UK as fitness celebrity Mr Motivator. The sprawling hilltop property is the site for four adrenalin-charged but family-friendly experiences: paintballing, ATV rides, a zip-line tour and the Screamer – a 17m giant swing that sends you hurtling across the valley. Activity package combos are available, with discounts for groups of 10 or more; if you want to sample everything on the menu, the 'Zips, ATV and Paintball Extreme' package (J$3250) gives you access all areas. Meals are available in the bright-yellow main house. Cranbrook Flower ForestGARDEN (www.cranbrookff.com; adult/child J$1000/500; h9am-5pm) This 53-hectare botanical garden run by Chukka Cove Farm is a treat, crafted in the lush valley that carves up into the hills south of Laughlands, about 5km west of Priory. The garden is built around a colonial-era building and includes theme gardens, a hothouse orchid display, pools, and lush lawns (with croquet) fringed by banks of anthuriums and other tropical flowers. Guided nature walks (about 90 minutes) lead to the river, reflecting giant tree ferns, spectacular torch ginger, heliconia and other exotic species, and there are perfect spots for picnicking. River tubing, horseback rides and adrenalin-packed canopy zip-line tours are available. 4Sleeping Circle B Farm Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( %913-4511; www.circlebfarm.com; dm US$22.50, r US$50) This working plantation has its own simple backpacker lodge offering several dorm-style rooms, a communal kitchen and lounge. Meals are offered on request. The farm also runs engaging tours that demonstrate its fruit production. It is reached via a turnoff after Sevilla la Nueva at Priory, 3km west of St Ann's Bay. Getting There & Away Minibuses that run between St Ann's Bay and Runaway Bay can drop you off at the bus stop right in front of Chukka Cove Farm. To reach H'Evans Scent and Cranbrook Flower Forest, you'll need your own vehicle. ### Runaway Bay This bay (16km west of St Ann's) is low on cultural attractions, though sun worshippers, snorkelers and divers find much to celebrate. This one-street village, lined with all-inclusive resorts and nondescript local shops, stretches along the A1 for 3km, merging with the small community of Salem to the east. 2Activities Several small beaches are supposedly public, although most are the backyards for a few all-inclusive resorts. If you're hankering for a dip in the big blue, head to the white-sand **Cardiff Hall Public Beach** , opposite the Shell gas station. There is a livelier (but littered) **Fisherman's Beach** in Salem, where the occasional sound-system party is staged on the weekend. Runaway Bay has excellent **diving**. There's a wreck in shallow water in front of Club Ambiance, plus two cars and a plane offshore from Club Caribbean. A reef complex called Ricky's Reef is renowned for its sponges. More experienced divers might try the eponymous **Canyon**. Here, too, is the _Reggae Queen_ , a 30m-long sunken tugboat. Potty Reef will have you flush with excitement; divers can't resist having their photo taken sitting on, er, King Neptune's throne. Resort DiversDIVING ( %881-5760; www.resortdivers.com; Royal DeCameron Club Caribbean, Runaway Bay; 1-/2-tank dives US$50/95) Besides standard dives, there are certification courses (from US$420), night dives (US$60), snorkeling excursions (US$30) and a plethora of other water sports on offer, such as banana-boat rides, parasailing and jet-ski rental. 4Sleeping The Jamaica Association of Villas & Apartments (JAVA; %974-2508, in the USA 800-845-5276; www.villasinjamaica.com) offers fully staffed beachside and hilltop villas. Club AmbianceRESORT ( %973-6167; www.clubambiance.com; s/d US$156/222, 3-bedroom villa US$980; p a W s) This lively alternative to the grander all-inclusives is popular with 20- and 30-somethings and features two small private beaches, a pool with a bar and a secluded three-bedroom villa with its own swimming pool. All bright colors and kitschy art, the spacious rooms feature firm king-sized beds and tiled floors. Rooms were being refitted when we visited. Little Savoy Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( %474-5889; www.jamaica-holiday.net; 150 Rickets Dr; r incl breakfast J$8000; p a i s) This grand new guest house with marble floors, faux-Grecian columns and the odd burst of color (in the shape of fresh flowers livening up the austere black-and-white exterior) is proving a hit, particularly with wedding parties. Each light, double room has its own color scheme and there's a good buffet breakfast. Franklyn D ResortRESORT ( %in the USA 800-654-1337; www.fdrholidays.com; all-incl 1/2/3 bedrooms US$490/595/650, child under 6/6-15/16-19 free/US$50/80; p a i W s) At this Spanish hacienda-style, all-inclusive family resort, there are kid-friendly facilities and a personal nanny assigned to each child. The resort has three restaurants and a bar, plus an oceanfront spa and waterslide. Three nights minimum stay. 5Eating & Drinking Food Fa LifeI-TAL (West Salem; meals J$450; hclosed Sun; v) Excellent I-tal food served from a nondescript container near Devon House I-Scream. Try the June plum juice (J$150), the ackee or the tasty vegetable stew. Sharkie'sSEAFOOD (Salem Beach; meals J$1000) Locals head for this informal seafood restaurant on Fisherman's Beach for steamed and fried fish, conch (curried, soup or fritters) and nonfishy standards. Tek It EasyBAR (A1; meals J$500-700; hlunch & dinner) At this economical rooftop haunt, Jamaican fare – primarily chicken and fish – competes for attention alongside the freely flowing overproof rum. There's music most nights. oCardiff Hall RestaurantINTERNATIONAL ( %973-2671; Runaway Bay Heart Hotel; meals J$1270-2400) This cheerful restaurant serves well-made Jamaican and continental fare. The service is great and reservations highly recommended. 3Entertainment Most fun-hungry visitors make the short journey to Ocho Rios for their after-hours kicks or settle for what's on at their resort. Subsequently, most resorts offer expensive night-passes for US$50 to US$100, granting unlimited booze, food and entertainment. Local entertainment consists of a few rum shops and insalubrious go-go clubs. Information PolicePOLICE (cnr Main St & B3) Post officePOST OFFICE (Main St) ScotiabankBANK (Main St, Salem) Bank with ATM. Getting There & Around Bus Minibuses and route taxis ply the A1 between Montego Bay (J$150 to J$200, one hour) and Ocho Rios (J$100 to J$150, 30 minutes). They can be flagged down anywhere in Runaway Bay. ### Discovery Bay This wide flask-shaped bay, 8km west of Runaway Bay and 8km east of Rio Bueno, is a popular resort spot for locals drawn to Puerto Seco Beach, and many of Jamaica's wealthiest families have holiday villas up in the hills here. The town itself has only marginal appeal. A giant bauxite-loading facility dominates the town. Large freighters are fed by conveyor belts from a huge storage dome that looks like a rusty pumpkin – it was used as the villain's headquarters in the James Bond movie, _Dr No_. You can follow the road signed 'Port Rhoades' uphill 1km to a lookout point offering fantastic views over the bay. Locals believe this to be the location where Christopher Columbus first landed on Jamaican soil in 1494, though others say it was at Rio Bueno. 1Sights & Activities Green Grotto CavesCAVES (www.greengrottocavesja.com; adult/child U$20/10; h9am-4pm) This impressive system of caves and tunnels, 3km east of Discovery Bay, extends for about 45km. The steps lead down into the impressive chambers, where statuesque dripstone formations are illuminated by floodlights. The Taíno people left petroglyphs carved into the walls; the caves have frequently been used as hideouts – by the Spanish during the English takeover of the island in 1655, by runaway slaves in the 18th century, and between the two world wars by smugglers running arms to Cuba. The highlight is Green Grotto, a glistening subterranean lake 36m down. The entrance fee includes a guided one-hour tour, which is particularly family friendly. The guides conduct their tours with humor and attempt to amaze you by tapping stalactites to produce hollow drum-like sounds, as well as pointing out the different species of bat that live in the cave, and their imported predator, the Jamaican yellow boa. Puerto Seco BeachBEACH (admission J$500; h9am-5pm) The eastern side of the bay is rimmed with white-sand beaches. With its soft sand and limpid waters, Puerto Seco Beach, in the center of town, is a real charmer. Open to the public, it sports rustic eateries and bars and a fun park with a waterslide for kids not interested in sun tanning. On weekends and holidays the beach is teeming, but during the week the place is often deserted. You can rent fishing boats, sea bikes and jet skis. Columbus ParkMUSEUM ( h9am-5pm) F An open-air roadside museum atop the bluff on the west side of the bay, this park features anchors, cannons, nautical bells, sugar-boiling coppers and an old waterwheel, and a diminutive locomotive once used to haul sugar at Innswood Estate. Nearby are remains of Quadrant Wharf, built in 1777 by the British, with a mural commemorating Columbus' landing. There's a branch of Scotchies here, making it a popular stop for tour coaches running between Mobay and Ochi. 4Sleeping & Eating Some of the most luxurious fully staffed villas on the island are found in the hills above Discovery Bay and can be booked with the Jamaica Association of Villas & Apartments ( %974-2508, in the USA 800-845-5276; www.villasinjamaica.com). Paradise PlaceGUESTHOUSE ( %862-2095; www.paradiseplace54.com; 54 Bridgewater Garden; r/apt J$5936/7819; p a) The pick of the Bay's budget accommodations, this attractive eight-room guest house is set back from the A1. The hot tub in the yard is a nice touch. Look for the bright murals by the white gates. Ultimate Jerk CentreJERK (meals J$500-750; hlunch & dinner) This popular rest stop and bar opposite Green Grotto Caves caters to a captive audience. The curry goat is very good, as is the bammy and festival, but you can find far better jerk elsewhere. Getting There & Away Minibuses and route taxis ply the A1 between Montego Bay and Ocho Rios. They depart from the Texaco gas station, opposite the entrance to Puerto Seco Beach. ## Dry Harbour Mountains Paved roads lead south from Discovery Bay, Runaway Bay and St Ann's Bay and ascend into the Dry Harbour Mountains. In this off-the-beaten-track area, the badly potholed roads twist and turn through scenic countryside as they rise to the island's backbone. Only two main roads run east–west. The lower, the 'Great Interior Rd' (the B11), parallels the coast about 11km inland. It begins at Rock, 2km east of Falmouth, and weaves east to Claremont. ### Brown's Town Brown's Town is a lively market town 11km south of Runaway Bay. Many noble houses on the hillsides hint at its relative prosperity. The town is at its most bustling during market days (Wednesday, Friday and Saturday), when the cast-iron Victoria Market (cnr Main St & Brown's Town Rd) overflows with higglers (street vendors). Irish estate-owner Hamilton Brown (1776–1843) financed the building of St Mark's Anglican Church (cnr Main St & Brown's Town Rd) in Victorian Gothic style. Note the fine cut-stone courthouse (Brown's Town Rd) with neoclassical-columned portico. Minibuses and route taxis run to St Ann's Bay, Kingston and Nine Mile from the east end of Top Rd, a block off Main St. ### Nine Mile The small community where Bob Marley was born and is now buried is set dramatically in the midst of the Cockpits. Despite its isolated location, the village is decidedly on the beaten path for tour groups playing pilgrimages to Marley's tomb, so be prepared for hustlers. Recently started are enterprising (but illegal) coffee plantation–style tasting tours of local ganja producers. Nine Mile MuseumMUSEUM ( %999-7003; www.ninemilejamaica.com; admission J$1900; h9.30am-4.30pm) In theory, Nine Mile Museum could be a great attraction. The plain two-room house where Marley spent his early years is touching, as is his marble mausoleum, with its candles, Bible and stained-glass windows. Unfortunately, the site's relentless plastic commercialization, and the hoary tales from guides grubbing for tips may quickly depress the casual visitor, and upset those who ever got a spiritual lift from the man's music. Adjust your expectations accordingly. Getting There & Away Nine Mile is linked by infrequent minibuses and route taxis from Brown's Town (which is in turn served by connections to St Ann's Bay and Kingston). Chukka Caribbean Adventures ( %972-2506; www.chukkacaribbean.com; tour US$65) runs the 'Zion Bus Line' tour from Ocho Rios. By car, follow signs from Claremonet on the A1. The mountain road is beautiful but in shockingly bad condition. ## Port Antonio Pop 15,000 If you took an ice-cream scoop out of the rainy northeast coast and surrounded it with a mess of markets, higglers and Georgian architecture in various states of disrepair, you'd get Port Antonio. There's definitely no Margaritavilles here; just a capillary-like tangle of backstreets, browsing goats and friendly locals. Wandering past the dilapidated houses lining the Titchfield Peninsula, it's very easy to think you've roamed into some quaint colonial ghost town. Ironic, then, that the tentacles of Jamaican tourism first found purchase in Port Antonio. The island's major banana port, its prosperity began luring visitors at the turn of the 20th century. Celebrity visitors, led by cinematic swashbuckler Errol Flynn, descended on the town in the 1940s. When the tourist attentions moved on to the west of the island, Port Antonio reverted to bananas. As a gateway to lush Portland parish, its laid-back attitude makes it a perfect destination for travelers seeking to get away from it all. History Port Antonio had a slow start in life. Spanish 'Puerto Anton' never thrived, while the British town of Titchfield on the peninsula suffered throughout the 18th century from coastal fevers and raids by the local Maroons. It wasn't until 1871 that the town came into its own, when fruit shipping magnate Captain Lorenzo Dow Baker settled here. Baker established the banana trade here, turning Port Antonio into a true boomtown as the 'banana capital of the world.' In the 1890s Baker began shipping in tourists from the US in his empty banana boats. Although Portland's banana bonanza was doomed in the 1930s by the onset of Panama disease, the arrival of movie star Errol Flynn and, later, numerous bluebloods and Hollywood stars, gave new cachet to Port Antonio as a tourist resort. The jet-set continued to visit through the 1960s, when hip new resorts were built. Sadly, Port Antonio has been in quiet decline ever since. Tourist dollars migrated to Negril and Montego Bay, and Jamaica's banana trade has been out-competed in the world market by Latin America. Port Antonio 1Sights 1CenotaphC3 2Christ ChurchC4 3Titchfield SchoolD1 2Activities, Courses & Tours 4Grand Valley ToursB4 5Lady G'DiverB2 6Valley HikesC4 4Sleeping 7DeMontevin LodgeC2 8Ivanhoe'sC2 9Ocean Crest Guest House B&BC2 5Eating 10Ambiance LoungeB2 11Kajama's CaféC3 12The Italian JobC4 6Drinking & Nightlife 13Marybell's Pub on the PierB2 14Roof ClubB4 3Entertainment 15Club La BestC4 7Shopping 16Musgrave MarketC3 1Sights Town Square & AroundSQUARE Port Antonio's heart is the Town Sq, at the corner of West St and Harbour St. It's centered on a clock tower and backed by a handsome red-brick **Georgian courthouse** from 1895; the building is surrounded by a veranda supported by Scottish iron columns and topped by a handsome cupola, and is now a branch of National Commercial Bank. About 50m down West St is the junction of William St, where the smaller **Port Antonio Sq** has a cenotaph ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) honoring Jamaicans who gave their lives in the two world wars. On the west side is Musgrave Market, decked out in yellows and blues, a quintessential chaotic developing-world market supported by thick limestone columns. Following William St south to Harbour St, you can turn left to peek inside Christ Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ), a red-brick Anglican building constructed in neo-Romanesque style around 1840 (much of the structure dates from 1903). Look for the brass lectern donated by banana-magnate Captain Lorenzo Dow Baker. On the north side of the Town Sq is the marvellously baroque facade of the **Royal Mall** , a three-story complex painted a striking red, now more or less a covered shopping parade decorated and designed in a plethora of styles, including Tudor and Renaissance. Errol Flynn Marina ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-3209, 715-6044; www.errolflynnmarina.com; Port Antonio, GPS N 18.168889°, W -76.450556°) Titchfield PeninsulaNOTABLE BUILDINGS Along this hilly peninsula – known locally as 'the Hill' – are several dozen Victorian-style gingerbread houses, most notably DeMontevin Lodge, an ornate rust-red mansion, now a hotel. Many of the finest homes line King St, which runs down the center of the peninsula (parallel to Queen and Fort George Sts). The peninsula is a National Heritage Trust site and has been slated to receive restoration for a while now. This is a relatively well-off area, but one with a romantically sad sense of glamour gone by. Further north at the tip of the peninsula are the ruins of **Fort George** , dating from 1729. The parade ground and former barracks today house Titchfield School ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) (closed to the public). Beyond the school, several George III–era cannons can still be seen mounted in their embrasures in 3m-thick walls. Navy IslandISLAND This lushly vegetated 25-hectare island is popular with local day-trippers on weekends – or it was, when the ferries ran. In colonial days the British Navy used it to careen ships for repair. In the mid-20th century Errol Flynn bought the island and built a home that became a hotel, which later fell into decay. In early 2002 the Port Authority and the Urban Development Corporation (UDC) jointly took over the island with a view to developing the jaded property as an upscale resort and ecological theme park, but nothing has come of it so far. Talk to fishermen on the docks or, more reliably, the folks at Dickie's Best Kept Secret; they may be able to get you out here for a good day of stomping through the ruins. FollyRUIN ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) This rather appropriately named two-story, 60-room mansion on the peninsula east of East Harbour was built entirely of concrete in pseudo-Grecian style by North American millionaire Alfred Mitchell in 1902. Short-sightedly, sea water was used in the concrete mix, causing the iron reinforcing rods to rust and the roof to collapse in 1936. What's left is a fantastically evocative ruin that deserves a place on the cover of _The Great Gatsby_. The shell of the structure remains, held aloft by limestone columns, and makes a perfectly peculiar locale for a picnic. The orange candy-striped **Folly Point Lighthouse** , built in 1888, overlooks Woods Island. ### ERROL FLYNN Hollywood idol Errol Flynn arrived in Portland parish in 1946 when his yacht Zacca washed ashore in bad weather. Flynn fell in love with the area and made Port Antonio his playground and home. In his autobiography, _My Wicked, Wicked Ways_ , he described Port Antonio as, 'more beautiful than any woman I've ever seen.' Flynn bought the Titchfield Hotel and Navy Island, where he threw wild, extravagant parties. Port Antonio's beguiling ways inevitably attracted the attention of other stars of stage and screen, like Clara Bow, Bette Davis and Ginger Rogers. With his third wife, Patrice Wymore, Flynn later established a cattle ranch at Boston Estate. He also planned a lavish home at Comfort Castle and had grandiose plans to develop Port Antonio into a tourist resort. But heavy drinking and a profligate lifestyle added to his ill health, and he died in 1959 aged just 50. The wild parties are no more, but his legend lives on. 2Activities FishingFISHING You can charter sport-fishing boats on the docks at Errol Flynn Marina. Reel Sensations ( %545-2384) is a reliable operator. Lady G'DiverDIVING ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %995-0246, 715-5957; www.ladygdiver.com; Errol Flynn Marina; 2-/4-dive package US$84/152) A full-service dive shop at the marina, with daily dives, retail store, PADI instruction and equipment rentals. The folks here are pioneering the largely undiscovered dive sites in the area, including **Courtney's Reef** and **Fisherman's Reef** , a series of drops, canyons and outcrops of coral. TTours Port Antonio makes an excellent base from which to take excursions into the forests of the Rio Grande Valley and into the Maroon country towns of Moore Town and Nanny Town. Grand Valley ToursHIKING TOURS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-4116, in the USA 401-647-4730; www.portantoniojamaica.com/gvt.html; 12 West St) Treks to Scatter and Fox Caves as well as hikes to Moore Town, Nanny Falls, Nanny Town and along the White River Trail. Jamaica ExplorationsADVENTURE TOURS ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-7267; www.jamaicaexplorations.com) Professional outfit based at Hotel Mocking Bird Hill that aims to promote ecocultural tourism in Portland and the Blue Mountains. Tailor-made guided soft-adventure tours include walking, hiking and cultural excursions. zFestivals & Events Portland JamboreeCARNIVAL ( hmid-Aug) Full on one-week carnival with jonkanoo dancing (traditional Caribbean dancing with West African roots). Port Antonio International Marlin TournamentFISHING ( %927-0145; www.errolflynnmarina.com; hearly Oct) Week-long fishing extravaganza. 4Sleeping Port Antonio has relatively restricted accommodation options, but there are several exceptional choices for all budgets a short drive to the east in Fairy Hill, so it's worth keeping your search as wide as possible. Sleeping Ivanhoe'sGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-3043; 9 Queen St; r US$50-65; a W) Fantastic views across the whole of Port Antonio from breezy verandas, spotless white rooms and bargain rates are the hallmarks of this spot, the oldest guest house on historic Titchfield Hill. Meals are cooked to order. Ocean Crest Guest House B&BGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-4024; 7 Queen St; r US$40-60; a) A favorite with the backpacker crowd, this B&B has simple rooms with tile floors and an ice-creamesque pink-and-white color scheme. We don't mind; the lounge has a large-screen TV and the balconies have a stunning view of Port Antonio and its picturesque bay. DeMontevin LodgeGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-2604; 21 Fort George St; d US$50, d with shared bathroom US$40) This venerable Victorian guest house has a homey ambience that blends modern kitsch and antiques reminiscent of Granny's parlor – the place could almost be the setting of a tropical Sherlock Holmes novel. The simple bedrooms (six with private bathrooms) are timeworn, but clean as a whistle. Hotel TimbambooHOTEL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-2049; www.hoteltimbamboo.com; 5 Everleigh Park Rd; s US$60-75; p a W s) Offering rare comfort for a Port Antonio hotel so centrally located, the Timbamboo has spacious, sunny rooms with modern furniture, carpeted floors and cable TV. Some rooms have balconies with views of the Blue Mountains. The hotel's sun deck is a great place to unwind. 5Eating Kajama's CaféJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; cnr Fort George & West Sts; mains J$300-750; hlunch & dinner) Upstairs facing the clock tower, this restaurant has a balcony painted like an athletics track. However, after filling up with big tasty plates of Jamaican stews and rice, plus smoothies and cake for dessert, you won't feel too much like a Usain Bolt–dash to your next destination. Excellent value. The Italian JobITALIAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 29 Harbour St; pasta J$700, pizza J$900 (slice J$250)) The fluorescent strip lights can be a bit harsh, but this is otherwise a jolly Italian-run checked-tablecloth sort of a place, with great pasta dishes, pizza, sandwiches and crepes for dessert. The wine isn't bad, and it's a nice change of pace from jerk and rice. Survival Beach RestaurantJAMAICAN ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; 24 Allan Ave; mains US$5-10; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; v) In addition to the usual local fare, natural juices and the best jelly coconut in town, this choice shack serves a tasty dish made with coconut milk, pumpkin, Irish potato, garlic, scallion, thyme, okra, string beans and three kinds of peas, served with sides of cabbage and callaloo. Just ask for the vital I-tal stew. oDickie's Best Kept SecretFUSION ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %809-6276; dinner US$20-40; hdinner) Dickie's – a tiny pointy-roofed seaside hut on western outskirts of Port Antonio – offers enormous five-course meals in rooms best described as Bob Marley meets Alice in Wonderland. They'll cook almost anything you want (provided they have the ingredients) but trust their suggestion – that anything will be delicious. Reservations essential. Anna Banana's Restaurant & Sports BarJAMAICAN ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %715-6533; Allan Ave; breakfast J$300, seafood dinners J$800-1500; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Need seafood? Jerk? An open-air bar? Head to this breezy restaurant-bar, overlooking a small beach on the southern lip of the harbor, which specializes in jerk or barbecued chicken and pork and groaning plates of conch and lobster. Hit up the pool table or toss some darts afterwards. Ambiance LoungeINTERNATIONAL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %354-0800; Errol Flynn Marina; mains US $11-20; hlunch & dinner) This quality restaurant on top of the marina is an airy open-sided affair. Steaks, chops and fish prepared continental style, plus a few Jamaican classics are served up, with the restaurant giving over to a lounge-bar vibe later in the evening. 6Drinking & Nightlife As well as the following, Anna Banana's beachside bar is the place to go for darts, pool and a rum punch. Friday heats up with the help of local DJs. Roof ClubCLUB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 11 West St; h8pm-late Thu-Sun) This is Port Antonio's infamous hang-loose, rough-around-the-edges reggae bar. Young men and women move from partner to partner. You're fair game for any stranger who wants to try to extract a drink from you. It's relatively dead midweek when entry is free, but on weekends it hops and on Thursday – 'Ladies Nite' – this place gets nuts. Marybell's Pub on the PierBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Errol Flynn Marina, Ken Wright Dr; W) Inside Errol Flynn Marina, this is a good place to while away an afternoon (or evening) away from the pace of the town, at the cabana bar or one of the tables overlooking the bay. Light meals are available. Club La BestCLUB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 5 West St; h9:30pm-late) The liveliest spot in Port Antonio, La Best assumes a different identity depending on the evening. Dancehall throbs into the wee hours on Friday; Sunday grooves to a mellow blend of reggae and old-school R&B; ladies' night is Friday; and periodic live shows occur on Saturday. 7Shopping Musgrave MarketMARKET ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; West St) There's a small craft market on the north side. Look for a stand called **Rock Bottom** selling well-made crafts and reggae-inspired duds. Portland Art GalleryART ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %882-7732; 2 West Palm Ave) A simple gallery and studio staffed by Hopeton Cargill, a Port Antonio realist painter. He's delighted to act as an ambassador for the local art scene. Information Emergency Police stationPOLICE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-2546, 993-2527) Internet Access Dekal Internet Café & BistroINTERNET ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; City Centre Plaza; sandwiches from JS$250, wifi free with an order; h9am-7pm Mon-Thu, 9am-9pm Fri & Sat; W) Internet Resources Port AntonioTOURIST INFORMATION (www.portantoniotravel.com) The official online visitor's guide. Medical Services City Plaza PharmacyPHARMACY ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-2620; City Centre Plaza, Harbour St) Port Antonio HospitalHOSPITAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-2646; Nuttall Rd; h24hr) Above the town on Naylor's Hill, south of West Harbour. Money CIBC Jamaica Banking CentreBANK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-2708; 3 West St) FX Trader CambioBANK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993 3617; City Centre Plaza, Harbour St) National Commercial BankBANK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-9822; 5 West St) RBTT BankBANK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-9755; 28 Harbour St) ScotiabankBANK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-2523; 3 Harbour St) Post Post officePOST OFFICE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-2651; Harbour St) On the east side of Town Sq. Getting There & Around The town center lies at the base of the Titchfield Peninsula, where the two main drags meet at a right angle in front of the main plaza and courthouse. Boat Errol Flynn MarinaMARINA ( %993-3209, 715-6044; www.errolflynnmarina.com; Errol Flynn Marina, Port Antonio) Customs clearance for private vessels (GPS N 18.168889°, W -76.450556°) Car There are gas stations on West Palm Ave, Fort George St and Harbour St. Eastern Rent-a-CarCAR RENTAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-4364; 16 Harbour St) Public Transportation There's a transportation center ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Gideon Ave) that extends along the waterfront, with minibuses leaving regularly for Kingston (to Halfway Tree bus station; J$450, two hours) via Buff Bay, and Port Maria (where you change for Ocho Rios). Route taxis depart constantly for Fairy Hill (J$100, 10 minutes), Boston Bay (J$150, 20 minutes), and Manchioneal (J$250, 40 minutes). Taxi For licensed taxis, call JUTA/Port Antonio Cab Drivers' Co-op ( %993-2684). Taxis hang out by hotels. They can also be found pretty easily in town, notably along Gideon Ave and the intersection of Bridge St and Summers Town Rd ( GOOGLE MAP ) ). Licensed taxis to Port Antonio cost about US$100 from Kingston and US$250 from Montego Bay. ## East of Port Antonio ### Port Antonio to Fairy Hill The A4 meanders east of Port Antonio through thick forest, jagged-tooth bays, pocket coves and the coastal villages of Drapers, Frenchman's Cove and Fairy Hill. This is where most visitors to Port Antonio, and indeed to Portland, will find accommodations and explore the nearby Rio Grande Valley, Nonsuch Caves and Blue Lagoon as well as the luxuriant sands of Winnifred Beach, Frenchman's Cove and San San Beach. Back in the 1950s and '60s, vacationing A-listers nicknamed this beautiful area the 'Jamaican Riviera,' and today many Jamaicans still name Portland as their favorite part of the country. 1Sights oBlue LagoonLAGOON The waters that launched Brooke Shields' movie career are by any measure one of the most beautiful spots in Jamaica. The 55m-deep 'Blue Hole' (as it is known locally) opens to the sea through a narrow funnel, but is fed by freshwater springs that come in at about a depth of 40m. As a result the water changes color through every shade of jade and emerald during the day thanks to cold freshwater that blankets the warm mass of seawater lurking below. You may encounter boat operators eager to take you on a short boat ride (US$25) to nearby **Cocktail Beach** (where parts of the Tom Cruise vehicle _Cocktail_ was filmed) and rustic Monkey Island, a short distance away. The lagoon is accessible from the road and is technically public property, but touts in the parking area may demand an entrance 'donation' – J$200 should assuage them. oWinnifred BeachBEACH F Perched like a baby bird on a cliff 13km east of Port Antonio you'll find the little hamlet of Fairy Hill and a rugged dirt track. Follow that road steeply downhill and you'll reach Winnifred Beach, yet another totally gorgeous beach that puts a lot of the sand in more famous places (ahem: MoBay, Negril) to shame. It's the only truly public beach on this stretch of the coast, and has a great vibe, with food and drink stands, weekend sound systems and Jamaicans from all walks of life. Trident CastleLANDMARK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.castleportantonio.com) A strange slice of Ruritania in the Caribbean, this folly on a headland 3km from Port Antonio was built in the 1970s by the (in)famously eccentric Baroness Elizabeth Siglindy Stephan von Thyssen, also known as Zigi Fami. Resembling a rather magnificent wedding cake, it is a popular backdrop for society weddings and music video shoots. Sadly, the castle is closed to the public, but it makes one hell of a landmark from the road. Frenchman's CoveBEACH (admission J$700; h9am-5pm) This little cove just east of Drapers boasts a small but perfect white-sand beach, where the water is fed by a freshwater river that spits directly into the ocean. The area is still technically owned by the Frenchman's Cove Resort (www.frenchmanscove.com). There's a snack bar serving jerk chicken and fish, bike rental (US$20 a day), alfresco showers, bathrooms, a secure parking lot and the option of taking boat tours to the Blue Lagoon (US$20). Look for the entrance opposite the San San Golf Course. San San BeachBEACH (admission J$700; h10am-4pm) San San is another gorgeous private beach used by residents of the villas on Alligator Head, and guests of the Goblin Hill, Fern Hill and Jamaica Palace hotels. The bay is enclosed by a reef that's wonderful for snorkeling (US$10 per day) and kayaking (US$25 per hour). Undeveloped Monkey Island (there are no monkeys – damn) is a good snorkel spot, and you can swim here from the beach if you're in decent shape. ### THE FIGHT FOR A FREE WINNIFRED BEACH Since around 2007, locals have been fighting to keep this, the last public beach in the area, free. The Jamaican government has been intent on developing Winnifred into a private resort, a move which will result in the displacement of a fair few local businesses as well as putting another beach outside local access. The fight is still ongoing as of this writing; in the meantime, locals continue to keep the beach sparkling clean for visitors and some may ask you for a donation if you visit. 2Activities Scuba DivingDIVING Good scuba diving abounds: the shoreline east of Port Antonio boasts 13km of interconnected coral reefs and walls at an average of 100m to 300m offshore. **Alligator Head** is known for big sponge formations and black corals. Hammerhead sharks are common at **Fairy Hill Bank**. For dive tours, instruction and equipment, contact Lady G'Diver at the Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio. San San Golf Course & Bird SanctuaryGOLF ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-7645; 9/18 holes US$50/70; h8am-5pm) The 18-hole golf course is laid out along valleys surrounded by rainforest. The bird sanctuary comprises primary forest and is not developed for tourism. 4Sleeping Drapers San Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( %993-7118; www.draperssan.com; Hwy A4, Drapers; s/d with shared bathroom US$31/62, d/tr with private bathroom US$72/90; W) Run by an Italian expat, activist and font of local knowledge, this cozy little house comprises two cottages with five doubles and one single room (two share a bathroom), all with fans, louvered windows and hot water. It's all very welcoming and family-oriented; there's a comfy lounge and communal kitchen and (excellent) dinners can be served by arrangement. Mikuzi Vacation CottagesCOTTAGE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %480-9827, 978-4859; www.mikuzijamaica.com; Hwy A4, Fairy Hill; r US$40-60; W) Mikuzi is wonderful: kind of funky, kind of romantic, set in pleasingly landscaped grounds and close to Winnifred Beach. It's a perfect hideaway, especially for couples. The property is divided between candy-bright cottages (the cheaper one lacks a kitchen), a small house and nicely kitted-out studio apartment. Meals available on request (breakfast not included). San San TropezHOTEL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-7213; www.sansantropez.com; Hwy A4, San San Bay; s/d US$85/125; p a W s) This friendly Italian-run hotel has gracious, well-lit rooms and suites and a palpably European small-resort feel. The furnishings are modern and graced by bright tropical decor, there's a nice sun deck and the adjoining restaurant has splendid views and better food (meal plans are offered). Gives passes to San San Beach. Jamaica PalaceHOTEL ( %993-7720; www.jamaica-palacehotel.com; Hwy A4; r deluxe/superior US$170/190, ste US$230-320; p a W s) A neoclassical property overlooking Turtle Cove, Jamaica Palace almost feels more art gallery than hotel, perhaps like one of the original grande dames of the Jamaican Riviera. Cavernous rooms and suites boast crystal chandeliers, antiques and Georgian bay windows. In the landscaped grounds is a 35m-long pool shaped like the island of Jamaica. Frenchman's CoveRESORT ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %933-7270; www.frenchmanscove.com; r/ste US$110/145, 1-/2-/3-bedroom cottages US$165/260/360; p a W s) This old great house frankly feels its age a little; back when Errol Flynn was the talk of the town we're sure this hotel was a big deal too, but today some of the stone cottages and '70s modernist condos feel a bit dated. That said, lovely staff and ready access to one of Jamaica's prettiest beaches make amends. Moon San VillasVILLA ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-7777; www.moonsanvilla.com; Hwy A4, Fairy Hill; r incl breakfast US$145-195; p a W s) Sitting above Blue Lagoon, this is a tastefully decorated three-level house with a big-windowed lounge and bedrooms you could get lost in, all with wide windows, good views, fans and romantic (if frilly) decor. The bargain rates include a gourmet breakfast, access to a snorkel boat and passes for Blue Mountain Bicycle Tours. French-inspired meals are offered on request. oKanopi HouseHOTEL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %632-3213, in the USA 305-677-3525; www.kanopihouse.com; Hwy A4, Drapers; r from US$300; a W s) S This Blue Lagoon ecoresort deserves the accolades given in honor of its luxury and comfort. Dark-wood chalets that seemingly grow from the jungle makes it feel like you're staying in a laid-back five-star hotel carved into a banyan tree. The property makes great efforts to leave a low ecological footprint and is stuffed with elegant art. Fresh organic dinners are prepared on site. oGee JamHOTEL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-7000, 993-7302; www.geejamhotel.com; off Hwy A4, San San Bay; r US$495-795, ste from US$995; p a W s) The hotel home of Gee Jam recording studios sets the standard for ultra-modern design, cuisine and exclusivity. There's a definite Manhattan penthouse vibe, with cottages connected by jungle walkways with views of the coast. Owner Jon Baker is a music-industry veteran with a taste for hip-hop and reggae – guests who've stayed here form their own Grammy Award nominees list. oHotel Mocking Bird HillHOTEL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-7267/134; www.hotelmockingbirdhill.com; Mocking Bird Hill Rd; r US$190-295, ste US$348-600; W s) S The Mocking Bird is one of the most vigorous proponents of ecotourism in Portland. The property is a lovely maison at the end of a winding dirt road; all rooms are lovingly appointed with well-chosen fabrics and art, ocean views and private balconies. Meals at the Mille Fleurs restaurant are sublime. Trails through the hillside gardens are fabulous for bird-watching. 5Eating & Drinking This stretch of road has many accommodations but few independent restaurants. Most folks eat at their hotels – which generally have restaurants open to nonguests – or are catered to by the staff of their villa. Woody'sJAMAICAN ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Hwy A4, Drapers; mains J$300-800; hlunch & dinner) This brilliant spot – with an outdoor patio and an indoor counter that doubles as a local meeting place – prepares tremendous hotdogs and burgers, grilled cheese and Jamaican dinners to order. Vegetarians are catered for by a veggie burger heaped with stewed callaloo. Charming hosts make this a winning experience. Sir Pluggy'sJERK (Hwy A4, Drapers; mains J$400-800; hlunch & dinner) There are two things that can't be beat about Sir Pluggy's: the name and the jerk. Smell that sweet smoke, order by the pound and fill dem belly up. San San TropezITALIAN ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-7213; Hwy A4, San San Bay; mains US$12-25; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) The enormous menu here has one focus: Italian food, home-cooked and cooked right. It's relatively simple stuff (if you've ever been to an Italian restaurant, you can probably recite the menu from rote memory), well-prepped and filling; the seafood and pizza are standouts. There's a large wine list as well. oMille FleursJAMAICAN ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-7267; Hotel Mocking Bird Hill, Mocking Bird Hill Rd; 3-course dinner US$90; h7am-10pm; v) This restaurant at Hotel Mocking Bird Hill offers some of the best haute Jamaican cuisine on the island, savored on a gorgeous terrace and served with a sense of elegance and intimacy. The locally sourced organic menu is influenced by what ingredients are seasonally available, includes vegetarian options and ends with a cleansing trolley of regional liqueurs. Reservations required. Bush BarFUSION ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-7000; Gee Jam; set meal US$70; hdinner) Set in a veranda that overlooks the jungle and the ocean and ensconced in multiple layers of hip, the restaurant at Gee Jam offers an immaculate Asian-Jamaican fusion experience, replete with cocktails as neon-bright as Vegas, chilled background music and that ineffable sense of being part of life's winning team, the perpetual in-crowd. Call ahead. 7Shopping Gallery CarriacouART ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %993-7267; Hotel Mocking Bird Hill; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue) Has a fabulous array of paintings, ceramics, sculptures and other quality works of fine art by local artists. It also hosts workshops for rural children and cultural events, so it tends to be a social anchor for this part of the island. R StewartART ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Hwy A4, Drapers) In Drapers you'll find the roadside gallery of renowned self-taught artist R Stewart, who more than likely will be working on his latest canvas at the edge of the road. His whimsical, masterful depictions of Jamaican life regularly inspire impulse buys from passersby. Information In the little hamlet of Drapers is a small post office ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat), and a police station ( %993-7315) just east of Frenchman's Cove. Getting There & Away Route taxis run throughout the day along this stretch of road between Port Antonio and Boston Bay – fares in either direction are unlikely to top J$100. ### Boston Bay Boston Bay is a pocket-sized beach shelving into turquoise waters. High surf rolls into the bay, making it a popular place to catch some waves. You can rent boards on the beach for around US$15. Boston is equally famous for its highly spiced jerk. Today, jerk has a worldwide fan base and is pretty much synonymous with Jamaican cuisine, but until the 1950s it was virtually unknown outside this area. The practice of marinating meat with jerk seasoning was first developed centuries ago not far from here by the Maroons, and the modest shacks at Boston Bay were among the first to invite attention – well worth making a detour for. 4Sleeping & Eating oGreat HutsRESORT ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %353-3388; www.greathuts.com; Boston Beach Lane; African-style hut per person US$55-80, treehouse US$163-255; W) A green 'ecovillage' meets sculpture park overlooking Boston Bay, this is a distinctive and imaginative collection of African-style huts and treehouses with open verandas, bamboo-walled bedrooms and alfresco showers. There's a private beach, a walking trail along the cliff, Afro-centric library and a great restaurant/bar with live music on Saturday. If only all resorts in Jamaica felt this 'inclusive.' Jerk standsJAMAICAN (J$400-800) At the entrance to Boston Bay you'll see a clutch of smoky jerk pits on the roadside. Vendors vie for your custom; they're all pretty good, though Mikey's produces a complexity of heat and sweet that has us shuddering at the memory. Getting There & Away Boston Bay is 15km east of Port Antonio; buses (J$100) leave early in the morning (8am) and around 5pm; route taxis ($J200) are a more convenient option. ### Long Bay Long Bay is well-named; its creamy beach sweeps for 1.5km, with strong breezes pushing the waves forcefully ashore. A strong undertow makes it bad for swimming, but surfers love the waves. While the strong easterlies bring good surf it also leaves Long Bay exposed to extreme weather. Once a big draw for backpackers, the hamlet has a slightly forlorn hurricane-battered air today, with many once-popular restaurants and guesthouses now closed. Locals hope for better weather to come. 4Sleeping Blue Heaven ResortGUESTHOUSE ( %892-2195; www.blueheavenjamaica.com; dm/d J$1500/3000; a W) A very basic Italian-run backpackers with whitewashed rooms, shared bathrooms and private beach access. It's a bit unloved and run-down, but the knock-down price makes it a fair option in a pinch. Italian food available on request, along with surfing gear to rent. Hotel Jamaican ColorsHOTEL ( %407-4412, 893-5185; www.hoteljamaicancolors.com; Hwy A4; s/d/q/house US$70/80/130/136, air-con supplement US$18; p a W s) This spiffy French-run hotel is located on the cliffs 2km south of Long Bay and has 12 comfortable cottages, all with plush double beds draped with mosquito netting (there's also a house for rent that can sleep five; rates based on number of guests). The open-air restaurant is great, and the owners dispense good information for surfers. 5Eating Numerous rustic beachside shacks sell inexpensive Jamaican fare and double as no-frills 'rum shops' with music at night; find the one with guests, music and laughter, pop in and enjoy yourself. The following restaurants are all located on the beach. For classy French fare, head to Hotel Jamaican Colors. Y & V Sea View RestaurantJAMAICAN At the cliffside entrance to Long Bay, this shack in red, green and gold with a Bob Marley mural is a popular place for Jamaican standards – plenty of filling chicken and fish with rice and the like. Eat outside in the breeze, and then clamber down the rocks to the beach below. Fishermans ParkJAMAICAN On the main road in the center of Long Bay, Fishermans Park is a lively open-sided restaurant/sports bar, with thatched seating area. Strong on fish (we also enjoyed the goat curry), with good-sized portions. Getting There & Away Minibuses and route taxis run between Port Antonio and Long Bay (J$300, 25 minutes). ### Reach Falls Even in a country that abounds in waterfalls, Reach Falls stands out as one of the most beautiful places in Jamaica. The white rushing cascades are surrounded by a bowl of virgin rainforest; the water tumbles over limestone tiers from one hollowed, jade-colored pool into the next. Once you enter the falls (adult/child US$10/5; h8:30am-4:30pm Wed-Sun) a guide will offer his services – crucial if you want to climb to the upper pools, which we highly recommend (there's a little underground, underwater tunnel a bit up the falls; plunging through is a treat). The Mandingo Cave, the crown jewel of the falls, can be accessed at the top of the cascades, but you need to bring climbing shoes and be prepared for a long climb. It's also possible to walk, wade and swim your way up to the edge of the falls, by an unmarked jungle path someway below the main entrance. It's an idyllic experience, with the forest and water all to yourself. Excellent local guide **Leonard Welsh** (849-6598) can take you, and point out plants and wildlife along the way. The turning to Reach Falls is well-signed about 2km north of Manchioneal. Any Port Antonio–Manchioneal route taxi can drop you; it's a further 3km uphill to the falls. ### Manchioneal Pop 2000 Keep heading about 2km south past Reach Falls and the road rises into a series of silly curves and waves around a vividly blue bay. Surrounding this bay is the fishing village Manchioneal (Man-kee-oh-neal), where colorful pirogues are drawn up on the wide, shallow beach. It's a center for lobster fishing and the surf is killer – July is said to be the best month. Manchioneal is a culinary destination for roast fish or conch in foil, which you can purchase from small shacks on the beach later in the day after fishermen have come in with their catches. At the far end of the bay, **Under the Rock Beach** is a small cove with a bar that's a good spot to sip beer and let the day slip away. There's usually a sound system on Sunday. Another nearby private beach receives year-round visits from **manatees** – ask at Zion Country for details. Three kilometers southeast of Manchioneal, **Ennises Bay Beach** is another great place to spend a lost afternoon. There's a refreshment stand and lovely views of the John Crow Mountains. 4Sleeping & Eating Zion CountryGUESTHOUSE ( %993-0435, 451-1737; www.zioncountry.com; s US$50, d without/with bathroom US$60/75) Four cute cottages built over the green cliffs overlooking Manchioneal bay and a chilled vibe lead to an excellent backpacker haven, with hammocks on the veranda and shared bathrooms. There's a small bar/restaurant with lovely views, and steep steps leading down to the beach. Bryan's RestaurantJAMAICAN (Main St; meals J$200-600) A rooftop eatery that offers simple but delicious Jamaican fare, served on a sunny veranda. Pay for your meal at the B&L Supermarket on the 1st floor before heading upstairs. Getting There & Away Minibuses and route taxis run between Port Antonio and here (J$250, 40 minutes). Taxis can take you to Reach Falls for around J$1000. If you have your own vehicle, you can follow the coastal road south until it becomes the A2 heading to Kingston (beware of floods in the rainy season). #### OFF THE BEATEN TRACK ### UPPER RIO GRANDE VALLEY If you really want to get away from everything, head for Ambassabeth Cabins ( %395-5351; www.bowdenpenfarmers.com; cabins US$50), a community tourism outfit in Bowden Pen that's an absolute gem. These rustic wooden cabins have running water but no electricity. You'll be treated to a true Maroon cultural experience, with indigenous folklore, Maroon cooking and local guides all on offer to take you along the **Cunha Cunha Pass Heritage Trail**. This is as educational and fun as stays in the Jamaican bush get. The ranger station for Blue Mountains-John Crow National Park is at Millbank, 3km before Bowden Pen, near the summit ridge of the John Crow Mountains, which parallels the valley like a great castle wall. A trail leads to the **White River Falls** , a series of seven cascades, while beyond you may find the ruins of abandoned Maroon villages. Be advised that this is a tough trek through some serious rainforest, so get a Maroon guide at Ambassabeth or Millbank. A short distance above Bowden Pen the track begins rising more precipitously and the vegetation closes in. The trail (passable on foot only) continues over the **Corn Puss Gap** and into St Thomas – a fabulous trek for the well-prepared. To get to the Upper Rio Grande, the road to the right of the Y-junction at Seaman's Valley leads via Alligator Church to Bowden Pen, 16km or so up the river valley. The paved road ends at Alligator Church. Beyond here, the dirt road is extremely rough and narrow and you'll need a 4WD. Valley Hikes ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) and Grand Valley Tours ( %401-647-4730; www.portantoniojamaica.com/gvt.html) in Port Antonio offer tours; the latter operates a campsite just beyond Millbank. ## Rio Grande Valley The Rio Grande river, fed by the frequent rains of wet Portland parish, rushes down from 900m in the Blue Mountains and has carved a huge gorge that forms a deep V-shaped wedge between the Blue Mountains to the west and the John Crow Mountains to the east. While not as remotely rugged as the Cockpit Country, the Rio Grande comes pretty close; if you need an escape from anything resembling a city, we recommend heading out here. The Maroons, descendants of escaped slaves who have retained a strong sense of their African cultural heritage, have a strong presence here; to distinguish themselves from their cousins in the Cockpit Country, they are referred to as the Windward Maroons. Red Hassell Rd runs south from Port Antonio and enters the Rio Grande Valley at Fellowship. #### DON'T MISS ### RAFTING THE RIO GRANDE Errol Flynn supposedly initiated rafting on the Rio Grande during the 1940s, and moonlight raft trips were considered the ultimate activity among the fashionable. Today paying passengers make the 11km journey of one to three hours (depending on water level) from Grant's Level (Rafter's Village), about 2km south of Berridale, to Rafter's Rest at St Margaret's Bay. When the moon is full, unforgettable night-time trips are offered. These are less regimented; your guide will be happy to pull over on a moon-drenched riverbank so that you can canoodle with your sweetie or just open the ice chests to release the beer. Reserve at Rio Grande Experience ( %993-5778; per raft US$65) or at Rafter's Village at Grant's Level if you don't have reservations. This is a one-way trip, so if you're driving you need to hire a driver to bring your car from Berridale to St Margaret's Bay (Rio Grande Experience will help for US$15; the drivers are insured, but make clear to them that you expect them to drive slowly and safely) or take a taxi from Port Antonio (US$20). A route taxi from Port Antonio to Grant's Level costs J$200; they depart from the corner of Bridge St and Summers Town Rd. Licensed taxis cost about US$20 round-trip. ### Moore Town This one-street village, 16km south of Port Antonio, stretches uphill for several hundred meters along the Wildcane River. Today it looks like any other Jamaican village, but historically it occupies a space of some importance as the former base of the Windward Maroons. The village was founded in 1739 following the signing of a peace treaty granting the Maroons their independence. Moore Town is still run semi-autonomously by a council of 24 elected members headed by a 'colonel.' The locals attempt to keep alive their lore and legends, and still bring out their _abengs_ (goat horns) and talking drums on occasion, but many youth are emigrating to the cities. Visitors expressing interest in the fascinating history of the Windward Maroons will be warmly welcomed. On arrival, it's considered polite to pay respects to the local colonel (Wallace Sterling during research; just ask about and someone will take you to him). If he's not about, you may be approached by one of his emissaries and asked for a small donation. Trails lead from Moore Town, including one to a series of lovely pools at **Nanny Falls** , about 45 minutes away. Grand Valley Tours in Port Antonio leads trips, including a 'Moonlight at Moore Town' community tour that aims to connect visitors to the spirit of the Maroons. Moore Town's main site of interest is **Bump Grave** , at the southern, uppermost end of town. Topped by a flagpole flying the Maroon and Jamaican flags, the oblong stone and plaque mark the grave of **Nanny** , warrior woman freedom fighter and chieftainess of the Maroons. There's a gate protecting the grave, but it can be opened for a small donation. Also be on the lookout for the church of Mother Roberts (the building is bedecked in flowers); it's the AME Zionist Deliverance Center, and is a major destination for faith healings. Moore Town is unsigned and lies in a hollow to the left of a Y-junction at Seaman's Valley; the road to the right continues via Alligator Church through the Upper Rio Grande Valley. In Moore Town the road dead-ends in the village. Minibuses and route taxis operate to Moore Town from Port Antonio (about J$150). A minibus from Port Antonio runs in the early morning and again in the early afternoon. ### HIKING THE RIO GRANDE Popular hikes include those to White Valley, known for its large population of giant swallowtail butterflies; to Dry River Falls; and to Scatter Falls and Fox Caves. Other hikes are demanding, with muddy, overgrown trails and small rivers that require fording. Don't attempt to hike off the beaten path without a guide. The Corn Puss Gap trail is particularly difficult, as is the wild path from Windsor to Nanny Town. Various companies offer organized hikes. In Port Antonio, contact Jamaica Explorations at Hotel Mocking Bird Hill, or Grand Valley Tours, which offers treks to Scatter Falls and Fox Caves as well as hikes to Moore Town, Nanny Falls and Nanny Town. Valley Hikes ( %993-3881; Unit 41, Royal Mall, Port Antonio) is another locally run trekking outfit. Sun Venture Tours ( %960-6685; www.sunventuretours.com; 30 Balmoral Ave, Kingston), based in Kingston, offers hiking and cultural tours in the area. All of these outfits can organize homestays in the Rio Grande Valley, which is preferable to rocking up on your own or camping in an area you're unfamiliar with. ### SCATTER FALLS & FOX CAVES An excellent and easy hike takes you to Scatter Falls and Fox Caves, reached by crossing the Rio Grande on a bamboo raft at Berridale, then hiking for 30 minutes through a series of hamlets and banana groves. The falls tumble through a curtain of ferns into a pool where you can take a refreshing dip. There are changing rooms nearby as well as toilets, a campground, a bamboo-and-thatch bar, and a kitchen that serves a hot lunch – though this must be ordered in advance through Grand Valley Tours, based in Kingston. A steep, 15-minute hike from the falls leads to the caves, which have some intriguing formations, some of which resemble Rasta dreads. The roof is pitted with hollows in which tiny bats dangle, and you can see where the falls emanate from the caves. As the path is unsigned and you'll be passing through private property, it's imperative that you visit accompanied by a guide. ### NANNY TOWN This former village stronghold belonging to the Windward Maroons is perched on the brink of a precipitous spur on the northeastern flank of Blue Mountain Peak, about 16km southwest of Moore Town as the crow flies. It is named for an 18th-century Ashanti warrior priestess and Maroon leader, now a national hero. In 1734 English troops brought swivel guns into the valley and blew up most of Nanny Town, but the local Maroons remained defiant. Essentially, they proved more trouble to subdue than they were worth, and Nanny Town was granted a sort of semi-autonomy that persists to this day. It's a tough 16km hike from Windsor, 5km north of Moore Town. There are numerous side trails, and it's easy to get lost if you attempt to hike on your own. ## West of Port Antonio ### Port Antonio to Buff Bay This otherwise uninspirational stretch of coast is best noted for Somerset Falls. A loop drive, however, can be made from here up the Swift River Valley, where plantations grow cacao. 1Sights Somerset FallsWATERFALL ( %383-6970; www.somersetfallsjamaica.com; Hwy A4; admission J$1250; h9am-5pm) This dark waterfall is hidden in a deep gorge about 3km east of Hope Bay. The Daniels River cascades down through a lush garden of ferns, heliconias, lilies and crotons into glistening teardrop black pools. Visitors have to negotiate some steep, twisty steps to get here. The site has a touristy restaurant, bar, ice-cream shop and small menagerie, but the falls themselves are unspoiled. The entrance fee includes a guided tour through a grotto by boat to the Hidden Fall, which tumbles 10m into a jade-colored grotto. Bring a swimsuit to enjoy the large swimming area. 4Sleeping & Eating Rio Vista Resort & VillasGUESTHOUSE ( %993-5444; www.riovistajamaica.com; Rafter's Rest; r US$90-125, villa US$195-270; p a W s) This guest house sits atop a ridge above the Rio Grande near the turnoff for Rafter's Rest, 6km west of Port Antonio. The house, built into the remains of an old plantation home, has enviable views across the river and mountains. The villas and rooms are a bit old-fashioned but lovely nonetheless, while the **Buccaneer restaurant** (meals from US$12) offers great fare. Getting There & Away Both route taxis (J$150) and minibuses (J$100) pass Somerset Falls and Hope Bay between Annotto Bay and Port Antonio. ### Charles Town A couple of miles inland from the modest town of Buff Bay is the Maroon settlement of Charles Town, home to the Asafu Culture Yard ( %445-2861; admission by donation). The Yard is a sort of house complex/gardens/museum operated by Maroon Colonel Lumsden, who's happy to clue visitors in to the nuances of Maroon culture. You can also get a guide to take you on a three-hour hike to an 18th-century coffee plantation and **Nanny's Look Out** , a viewpoint over the coast. One of the largest African heritage events in the Jamaican cultural calendar, Fi Wi Sinting (www.fiwisinting.com) is held on a Sunday in February at Nature's Way, 5km east of Buff Bay. There's an African marketplace, children's village, I-tal food and live music. In a moving ritual, the official celebration comes to a close when libation is poured in remembrance of those who survived the 'middle passage,' a term designating the passage of slaves to Jamaica from Africa. A boat covered in flowers is released into the sea. A Kumina drum circle keeps a sizable crowd dancing deep into the night. Buff Bay itself is of little interest, but anyone passing through should grab a bite at the fabulous Blueberry Hill Jerk Centre (jerk meat J$300-750), on the road out to Port Antonio. Some aficionados claim this to be the best jerk in Portland parish, which is really saying something. We're inclined to agree; the sauce alone is deliciously punishing. ### Annotto Bay This erstwhile banana port is a downtrodden one-street town that springs to life for the Saturday market. The paltry remains of **Fort George** , and some gingerbread colonial-era structures with columned walkways, stand on Main St. The most intriguing is the venerable yellow-and-red brick **Baptist chapel** , built in 'village baroque' style in 1894, with cut-glass windows and curious biblical exhortations engraved at cornice height. There's no reason to stay in Annotto Bay, but every August it hosts the St Mary Mi Come From (www.facebook.com/AStMaryMiComeFrom; h1st Sat in Aug) music festival, headlined by Cappleton and featuring other popular dancehall artists The best place to eat in Annotto Bay is the Human Service Station (mains J$200-600) at the side of the road to Buff Bay as you're leaving town. It serves decent fish and chicken stews. ### Robin's Bay The paved road from Annotto Bay ends at **Robin's Bay** (known as Strawberry Fields in the 1970s, when it was a hippie free-love haven). There are persistent rumors about pirate's treasure still hidden away in the area's sea caves. The area has some of the most rugged and undeveloped country on the north coast. 1Sights & Activities Kwaaman & Tacky WaterfallsWATERFALLS Kwaaman and Tacky Falls are so pristine and isolated that, if you stumbled across them wandering up the coast from Robin's Bay, you might be tempted to claim them as your own. Kwaaman Waterfall is a 32m cascade that tumbles into a clear pool you can swim in. It's a nearly one-hour hike from Robin's Bay. Gazing up from the water at the contorted rockface behind the falls, you'll be able to make out what appears to be dreadlocks formed in the rock by the continual flow of water over centuries. Tacky Falls lacks the dreads but is equally worth the visit, particularly if the weather's calm and you can take a boat ride from Robin's Bay. Hiking Port Maria to Robin's BayHIKING You can reach Robin's Bay from Port Maria by a hiking trail that leads along one of the few stretches of Jamaican coastline that remains pristine. Locals can lead you to remote **Black Sand Beach** , and the Kwaaman and Tacky Waterfalls. 4Sleeping & Eating River LodgeGUESTHOUSE ( %995-3003; www.river-lodge.com; s/d US$25/50-60, d cottages US$105-135; p) This atmospheric option has sprouted from the ruins of an old Spanish fort. The rooms have white bleached-stone walls and are lit by skylights. The bathrooms (cold water only) are festooned with climbing ivy; the bathroom in the upstairs 'tower' room is alfresco. Meals (on request) are a social affair, served in a small thatched restaurant. Strawberry Fields TogetherRESORT ( %999-7169; www.strawberryfieldstogether.com; camping per person US$15, junior cottage US$70-90, deluxe cottage US$180-300; p a) This series of cottages is also popular with those on a budget due to the campground (bring your own tent). The cottages (which can sleep four to six) all have views to the hills and sea (there's a private beach), and some come with whirlpool baths. The surrounding land is lovely to trek through. Meals available. Getting There & Away Any public transport that travels between Ocho Rios and Annotto Bay or Port Antonio will let you off at the junction to Robin's Bay on the A3. It's then a 6km walk to Robin's Bay (route taxis are far and few between, but there's a daily bus from Robin's Bay to Kingston). The hotels can arrange transfers. # Montego Bay & Northwest Coast #### Ironshore & Rose Hall #### Falmouth #### Martha Brae #### Glistening Waters #### Duncans #### Rio Bueno #### Lethe #### Rocklands Bird Feeding Station #### Good Hope Estate #### Windsor # Montego Bay & Northwest Coast ### Why Go? Home to the nation's largest airport and a busy Caribbean cruise terminal, Montego Bay is many people's first view of Jamaica before they get whisked off to the surrounding beaches, golf courses and all-inclusive resorts. So it's ironic that some of the area's most interesting haunts are not to be found in MoBay itself – an unremarkable city of clamor and traffic – but in the crinkled mountains and jagged coastlines that surround it. Lethe is a verdant jungle-like domain where resort escapees can partake in adrenaline sports such as zip-lining and river-rafting. Falmouth is Jamaica's historical masterpiece that still retains the grit of its slave-era roots. Cockpit Country is a roadless wilderness of hidden caves and eerily silent hills that's disorientating, even to hardened locals. Filling in the gaps is a dense network of small towns and tiny villages that pulsate with the rawness and romance of everyday Jamaican life. ### When to Go **Dec–Mar** High season is good for avoiding rain, but expect high rates. **Apr–Aug** In low season the coast and mountains are cooler, and lodging is cheaper. **Sep–Nov** Low-key festivals and moody weather characterize shoulder season. ### Best Places to Stay APolkerris B&B ARichmond Hill Inn AHotel Rio Bueno AFisherman's Inn ### Best Tastes of Local Life AFar Out Fish Hut AChilli Pepper AMiss Lilly's ALobster Bowl Restaurant ## Montego Bay & Northwest Coast Highlights 1 Soaking up the sun with tourists and returned Jamaican expats at Doctor's Cave Beach 2 Exploring the halls of Greenwood Great House 3 Hiking into the heart of the wild Cockpit Country 4 Watching the algae glow on your fingers as stars twinkle overhead in the Glistening Waters 5 Imbibing the history, architecture and food of Jamaica on a heritage walking tour in Falmouth 6 Zip-lining above the abundant greenery in the jungles of Lethe 7 Enjoying a simple but spicy jerk at the Hip Strip's Pork Pit ## Montego Bay Pop 110,000 Montego Bay has two distinct faces: there's the smooth tourist countenance that grins contentedly from the pages of a thousand glossy Caribbean brochures; and there's MoBay proper, a pretty gritty city, second only to Kingston in terms of status and chaos. Most of the big all-inclusive resorts are located well outside the urban core in the fancy suburb of Ironshore. Stay in the city, however, and you're faced with an entirely different proposition – a riot of cacophonous car horns and bustling humanity that offers an unscripted and uncensored slice of Jamaican life, warts and all. The Hip Strip (aka Gloucester Avenue), with its mid-range hotels and ubiquitous souvenir shops flogging Bob Marley T-shirts, acts as a kind of decompression chamber between MoBay's two halves. You won't find many hipsters here, but, in among the hustlers and smoky jerk restaurants, there's a detectable Jamaican rhythm to the action on the street. Montego Bay 1Sights 1Dead End BeachE1 2Montego Bay Yacht ClubB7 3Walter Fletcher Beach & Aquasol Theme ParkD4 2Activities, Courses & Tours Deep Drop Fishing ChartersB7 4Dreamer Catamaran CruisesG1 John's Hall Adventure ToursG1 Montego Bay Yacht ClubB7 5Rafters VillageG1 4Sleeping 6Hotel GlorianaE2 7Jamaica Grandiosa ResortE3 8Relax ResortG1 9Richmond Hill InnF5 10Secrets St JamesA7 11Sunset Beach Resort & SpaB6 12The View Guest HouseG6 5Eating Berry College RestaurantE2 13Day-O PlantationG8 14Houseboat GrillC8 15Millennium VictoryF6 16Tastee PattyF6 6Drinking & Nightlife Montego Bay Yacht ClubB7 Richmond HillF5 3Entertainment 17Fairfield TheatreF8 18Palace MultiplexE8 7Shopping 19Gallery of West Indian ArtF7 1Sights #### Hip Strip & the Beaches oDoctor's Cave BeachBEACH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-2566; www.doctorscavebathingclub.com; adult/child US$6/3; h8:30am-sunset) It may sound like a rocky hole inhabited by lab-coated troglodytes, but this is actually Montego Bay's most famous beach. A pretty arc of sugary sand fronts a deep-blue gem studded with floating dive platforms and speckled with tourists sighing happily. Er, _lots_ of tourists – and a fair few Jamaicans as well. The upside is an admission charge keeps out most of the beach hustlers. Founded as a bathing club in 1906, Doctor's Cave earned its name when English chiropractor Sir Herbert Barker claimed the waters here had healing properties. People flocked to Montego Bay, kick-starting a tourism evolution that would culminate in the appearance of _Homo Margaritavillus_ decades later. There are lots of facilities on hand including a food court, grill bar, internet cafe and water sports, and lots of things to rent (beach chairs, towels, snorkeling gear). Gloucester Ave (Hip Strip) 1Top Sights 1Doctor's Cave BeachA3 1Sights 2Cornwall BeachA2 2Activities, Courses & Tours 3Marzouca ToursA5 Resort DiversB1 4Sleeping 4Altamont WestA5 5Caribic HouseA3 6Don WayB1 7El GrecoB3 8Gloucestershire HotelA3 9Polkerris B&BB4 10Royal Decameron Montego Beach ResortB1 11Tobys ResortB1 12WexfordA4 5Eating 13Biggs BBQ Restaurant & BarA3 14Cafe TeaseA3 15Candy Shack Ice CreamA3 CC's Coffee & CupcakesB1 16Chilli PepperB1 17Golden DynastyA4 18Marguerite'sA3 19PelicanA4 20Pork PitB5 6Drinking & Nightlife 21Blue Beat Jazz & Blues BarA3 22Jimmy Buffett's MargaritavilleA3 23Reggae BarA3 7Shopping 24Fantasy Craft MarketB1 Cornwall BeachBEACH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-0102; www.cornwallbeachja.com; admission $J350; h8am-6pm) Cornwall Beach has the most coolness cred out of Montego's beaches – if you're looking for a beach that feels like the spot where the cool locals hang out (well, the cool locals willing to shell out $J350), this is your spot. There's a nice shallow shelf for snorkeling, clear water for swimming and white sand for you to look good on. Every Wednesday an (open bar) beach party goes down here from 9pm til _oh-god-is-that-the-sun_? Walter Fletcher Beach & Aquasol Theme ParkBEACH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-9447; Gloucester Ave; adult/child US$5/3; h10am-10pm; c) While the theme park moniker is pushing it (the kid-orientated facilities consist of some blow-up water slides and a rusty go-cart circuit), this place on Walter Fletcher Beach offers a decent spot to relax in a nonthreatening local environment; the cruise-ship day-trippers usually get bussed off to plusher Doctor's Cave up the road. The beach is sandy and relatively clean and the water is safe for swimming with some limited snorkeling possibilities. Food and drink come courtesy of the onsite deck-bar with things heating up at sunset, especially at weekends. Look out for billboards advertising sporadic live-music events. Dead End BeachBEACH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) A meet-the-locals affair beside Kent Rd just north of Gloucester Ave, this narrow strip is also known as Buccaneer Beach. The lack of space promotes togetherness; at high tide it's pretty accurate to drop the 'beach' from 'dead end.' There are no facilities here, but the lack of crowds makes the sunsets over the bay all the more gorgeous. #### Downtown Sam Sharpe SquareSQUARE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Fort St) This bustling cobbled square is named for Samuel Sharpe (1801–32), national hero and leader of the 1831 Christmas Rebellion. At the square's northwest corner is the **National Heroes Monument** , a bronze statue of Paul Bogle and Sam Sharpe, Bible in hand, speaking to three admirers. Nearby is the **Cage** , a tiny brick building built in 1806 as a lockup. The statue is the work of Jamaican artist Kay Sullivan and has an appealing rawness to it. The Cage was originally built of wood, but unruly prisoners damaged it so much it was remodeled in stone. It now serves as a souvenir shop. Downtown Montego Bay 1Sights 1Burchell Memorial Baptist ChurchE5 2Civic CentreC5 3Creek DomeF6 4Fort MontegoB1 5Montego Bay Marine Park Resource CenterA6 6National Housing TrustE5 7Sam Sharpe SquareD4 8St James Parish ChurchD6 9Town HouseD5 2Activities, Courses & Tours 10Maroon Attraction ToursF5 5Eating 11AdwaC2 12Butterflake PastriesC4 13Juici PattiesD4 14Nyam 'n' JamC5 Pier OneA6 15Viennese BakeryD4 6Drinking & Nightlife 16MoBay ProperA1 17Pier OneA6 7Shopping 18Fort Montego Craft MarketA1 19Harbour Street Craft MarketB5 Civic CentreNOTABLE BUILDING ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-5500, 971-9417; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun) At the southwest corner of Sam Sharpe Sq you'll find the copper-domed Civic Centre, an elegant colonial-style cut-stone building on the site of a ruined colonial courthouse. It contains the small, not terribly well assembled (if informative) Museum of St James, replete with relics and other exhibits tracing the history of St James' parish from Taíno days to the present. An art gallery and 200-seat theater are also on site, both of which host various events on the MoBay cultural calendar. Church StreetSTREET Many of the most interesting buildings in town are clustered along Church St, the most picturesque street in MoBay, although you shouldn't expect a quiet historic district – this thoroughfare is as alive and chaotic as anywhere else downtown. The highlight is St James Parish Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-2775; Church St), regarded as the finest church on the island. It was built between 1775 and 1782 in the shape of a Greek cross, but was so damaged by the earthquake of March 1, 1957, that it had to be rebuilt. With luck, the tall church doors will be open (if they're not, call the rector at the above number) and you can view the interior, one of the most beautiful rooms in the whole of Jamaica. Note the wonderful stained glass and marble monuments, including some fine works by John Bacon, the foremost English sculptor of the late 18th century. One is a memorial to Anne May Palmer, whose virtuous life was upended in literature to create the legend of the White Witch of Rose Hall. Look carefully at her neck and you'll detect faint purple marks. Locals consider this proof of the fable that the 'witch' was strangled. Outside are the neglected (yet romantic, in a decaying way) gravestones of old planters. The pretty Town House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-2660; 16 Church St), fronted by a stately redbrick exterior, is buried under a cascade of bougainvillea and laburnum. The house dates from 1765, when it was the home of a wealthy merchant. It has since served as a church manse and later as a townhouse for the mistress of the Earl of Hereford, Governor of Jamaica. In the years that followed it was used as a hotel, warehouse, Masonic lodge, lawyer's office and synagogue (its current incarnation is a clothes store). At the corner of Water Lane is a plantation-style octagonal structure that today houses a police station. About 50m west, at the corner of King St, is a redbrick Georgian building harboring the National Housing Trust ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-0063; 1 King St). A more impressive structure is the three-story **Georgian building** at 25 Church St – headquarters of Cable & Wireless Jamaica. Burchell Memorial Baptist ChurchCHURCH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-6351; Market St) Two blocks east of Sam Sharpe Sq is one of the churches in which Sam Sharpe is said to have been a deacon. The building, which dates to 1835, is a slice of British countryside architecture smoldering handsomely away in the tropical heat. The original church was founded in 1824 by Rev Thomas Burchell. Sharpe's remains are buried in the vault. Creek DomeNOTABLE BUILDING ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; cnr Dome & Creek Sts) Lurking at the end of Creek St is the bizarre-looking Creek Dome, built in 1837 above the underground spring that supplied drinking water for Montego Bay. The structure is actually a hexagon with a crenellated castle turret in which the 'Keeper of the Creek' lived and collected a toll on the dispensation of drinking water. ### FORT MONTEGO'S QUIET CANNONS At the southern end of the Hip Strip a set of stairs leads (very) steeply up to a rough square of old rocks dubbed, somewhat ambitiously, Fort Montego ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Fort St) – or the ruins of Fort Montego, complete with rusty cannons. A sign describes the nitty-gritty of the production of said armaments, while leaving out the depressing details: the cannons were only fired twice, and both times were a fiasco. The first shot, in celebration of the capture of Havana in 1762, was a misfire that killed an artilleryman. The second time the cannoneers screwed up and shot at one of their own ships, the _Mercury,_ which was carrying a dangerous cargo of...dogs. Fortunately the cannon crews (as you may have guessed by now) weren't the best at their jobs and missed the _Mercury_. There's a fairly uninspiring craft market next to the fort. #### Around Montego Bay Bellefield Great HouseGREAT HOUSE ( %952-2382; www.bellefieldgreathouse.com; basic tour US$28, lunch tour adult US$40; h11am-4pm Tue-Thu by reservation) The sea of sugarcane south of Montego Bay is part of the Barnett Estate, a plantation owned and operated since 1755 by the Kerr-Jarretts, one of Jamaica's preeminent families; their holdings once included most of the Montego Bay area. Today the family holds the land and its accompanying Great House, the Bellefield, in trust for the government and manages it accordingly. Built in 1735, Bellefield has been restored and is now a showcase of 18th-century colonial living and Jamaican culinary history, which makes for an interesting mash-up of historical tourism catering to the traveler-cum-foodie demographic. You'll get to see the local gardens, meander past an on-site jerk pit, get pleasantly drunk on rum punch, wander the house and then gorge yourself at a delicious lunch buffet. Tours must be arranged at least 24 hours in advance. There's a four person minimum. The estate is about 800m to the east of Doctor's Hospital, about 15 minutes from downtown Montego Bay heading southeast along Fairfield Rd. It's poorly signed: take the right turn at the Y-fork marked for Day-O Plantation, then the signed right turn at Granville Police Station. Montego Bay Marine Park & Bogue LagoonNATURE RESERVE ( %952-5619; www.mbmp.org) The waters of Montego Bay are gorgeous to behold both above and below the surface, but they have long been compromised by the effects of fishing, water sports and pollution. With the creation in 1991 of the Montego Bay Marine Park, environmental regulations at last began to be strictly enforced to protect the area's coral reefs, flora and fauna, and shoreline mangroves. The park extends from the eastern end of the airport westward (almost 10km) to the Great River, encompassing the mangroves of Bogue Lagoon. You can hire canoes or set out with a guide to spot herons, egrets, pelicans and waterfowl – swimming and crawling below are barracudas, tarpon, snapper, crabs and lobsters. Request a guide two days in advance; there's no charge but donations are gladly accepted. Authority is vested in the Montego Bay Marine Park Trust (MBMPT), which maintains a meager resource center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-5619; Pier One Complex, off Howard Cooke Blvd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri), with a library on the vital ecosystem, where bookings can be made. Indigenous Rastafarian VillageRASTAFARIAN VILLAGE ( %285-4750; www.rastavillage.com; Fairfield Rd; 2hr/1-day tour US$25/100; htours by appointment) If you want to learn about the Rastafari movement past the effort it takes to pop in a Marley CD, come out to this...hmmm. 'Theme park' is definitely not the right description. How about 'living interpretive exhibit?' There's not exactly a natural mystic floating in the air, but this 'village' is still a good introduction to Jamaica's most famous indigenous religion. You'll be taken through a pretty, jungly settlement, shown medicinal plants (not what you're thinking) and given a coherent breakdown of what the Rasta faith traditionally believed in. As most travelers don't learn much about Rastafari past the ramblings of dreadlocked hustlers, this is a pretty valuable experience, and the all-day tour includes some lovely treks into the surrounding countryside, complete with swimming in paradisal natural pools. If coming from downtown MoBay, head south on Barnett St and turn left at the Westgate Shopping Centre. You'll need either your own wheels (it's a lovely drive) or to pre-arrange a visit – which can easily be done through your accommodations. Even if you drive yourself, we recommend calling ahead; the village may not be ready to deal with drop-in visitors. Freeport PeninsulaNEIGHBORHOOD The artificially made Freeport Peninsula, constructed by making a causeway between several small lagoon islands (the Bogue Islands) in the 1960s, is located southwest of downtown Montego Bay and serves, among other functions, as the docking point for cruise ships, a nexus for the yachting crowd, and home to the city's two most centrally located all-inclusives (including the posh Secrets resort). It's a bit of a hike from downtown, but worth the walk/drive for drinks at the yacht club or dinner at the Houseboat Grill that floats amid the mangroves of the Bogue Lagoon. Montego Bay Yacht Club ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-8038; www.mobayyachtclub.com; Montego Bay Freeport, GPS N 18.462452°, W -77.943267°; h10am-10pm) 2Activities Diving MoBay offers a few good dive sites. For advanced divers, the **Point** north of the airport has a good wall dive due to the fish, sharks, rays and dense coral that are fed by crystal-clear waters scoured by currents. The wall here starts at 20m and drops to at least 90m. **Airport Reef** , off the southwestern edge of the airport, is considered by some to be the best site on the island, with masses of coral canyons, caves and tunnels, and a DC-3 wreck that's become a multicolored mansion for masses of fish. Besides boasting the sort of name you'd rightly expect in a _Pirates of the Caribbean_ movie, **Widowmakers Cave** is an incredible tunnel filled with sponges, barracuda and schools of smaller fish. This is a site for experienced divers, who can navigate through the 21.3m (70ft) passage and out the top of its chimney. **Chub Reef** , a 12.2m (40ft) dive site located just to the northeast of the city, is named for the preponderance of Bermuda chub, rather than any physical squatness. **Rose Hall Reef** , about 10km east of the city, is a shallow reef more suitable for less-experienced divers. The main attraction is the **Fairy Castle** , a pretty coral pillar as fantastic as its name suggests. With all this said, don't dive here expecting top-rate macrodiving (ie lots of big fish). There are mantas, nurse sharks and the like in these waters, but most divers report seeing nothing larger than barracuda, reef fish and rock lobsters. Most dive centers also offer snorkeling trips. All of the following provide multiple levels of PADI certification. Dressel DiversDIVING ( %321-392-2338; www.dresseldivers.com; Iberostar Rose Hall Resort, Rose Hall) Acclaimed international diving outfit with scuba centre in Iberostar Rose Hall Resort, 20km east of MoBay. Non-hotel guests are welcome on trips. For customized dive-package prices, use the online form on their website. Resort DiversDIVING ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %973-6131; www.resortdivers.com; 2 Gloucester Ave; one/two-tank dive US$50/95) Located on the Hip Strip in the Royal DeCameron Hotel. Jamaica Scuba DiversDIVING ( %957-3039; www.scuba-jamaica.com; one/two-tank dive US$60/100) Jamaica-wide scuba outfit. Fishing The waters off Jamaica's north coast offer spectacular game fishing. Deep-water game fish like blue marlin, sailfish, wahoo, kingfish and yellowfin tuna use the abyss known as Marlin Alley as a migratory freeway (June and August are peak months for marlin). The **Montego Bay Marlin Tournament** is held in late September; contact the Montego Bay Yacht Club ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-8038). Charters can be booked through hotels, or you can contact Howard Martin at Deep Drop Fishing Charters ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-572-0010; www.fishinginjamaica.com; Montego Bay Yacht Club), usually based at the yacht club. Boat Trips The number of party boat tours in Montego Bay is stupefying. Most companies charge US$45 to US$80 for three-hour party cruises with open bars, and US$35 to US$45 for sunset and dinner cruises. You can also charter yachts for private group sailing trips from the Montego Bay Yacht Club at Montego Freeport. Dreamer Catamaran CruisesBOAT TRIPS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-0102; www.dreamercatamarans.com; Shop 204, Chatwick Plaza; cruise US$65; hcruises 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat) An outfit that offers a catamaran adventure on swift boats specially designed for partying, with an open bar and a snorkeling stop in the marine park. Cruises depart from Doctor's Cave Beach Club. A bus will pick you up at your hotel. TTours To paraphrase Yakov Smirnoff, 'In Jamaica, tour company finds YOU.' Between your hotel or guesthouse and touts on the Hip Strip, someone's gonna approach you about taking a tour. There are always customization options available; trips to places like Negril, Dunn's River Falls (near Ocho Rios) and Nine Mile (the birthplace of Bob Marley, south of Ocho Rios) are de rigueur. If you find a taxi driver you get along with who offers to give you a personalized tour, consider the option: your money may go directly to someone you like, rather than being split among commission-takers. Winston ToursSIGHTSEEING TOURS ( %324-1419, 957-2075; www.winstontoursjamaica.com) Call Winston for a personalized, intimate tour via his own JUTA (Jamaica Union of Travelers Association)-approved minibus. He'll tailor schedules for individual itineraries, which provides a nice level of flexibility. Phillip Country ToursSIGHTSEEING TOURS ( %843-9840; www.phillipcountrytours.com) Phillip provides personal (and personable) tours of his home island catering for individual travelers. A nice break from being herded around in a big bus. Marzouca ToursSIGHTSEEING TOURS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-971-3859; www.marzouca.com; 39 Gloucester Ave; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has an office on the Hip Strip. For something a bit different try their Montego Bay History Tour (US$40). Maroon Attraction ToursCULTURAL TOURS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %971-3900, 700-8805; 32 Church St) Runs a cultural, educational and historical tour (US$60, 8am to 3:30pm Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday) to Maroon Town, south of MoBay. John's Hall Adventure ToursADVENTURE TOURS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %971-7776; www.johnshalladventuretour.com; 26 Hobbs Ave) Includes fairly comprehensive tours of the south coast. Caribic VacationsSIGHTSEEING TOURS ( %953-9895, 953-9896; www.caribicvacations.com; 1310 Providence Dr, Ironshore Estate) Caribic is a pretty big outfit, with well-trained tour guides. You'll be in the tourist herd, but the service is very reliable. zFestivals & Events Held in the fall, alternating between October and November, **Africa Jamfest** celebrates the African roots of Afro-Caribbean culture. Red Stripe Reggae SumfestMUSIC (www.reggaesumfest.com) Jamaica's premier reggae festival typically includes over 50 world-class reggae artists. Held in July, it starts with a beach party on Walter Fletcher Beach, followed by a week of nonstop partying. 4Sleeping The following places are within Montego Bay proper; the top-end resorts and all-inclusives tend to cluster east of town in Ironshore. Note that all prices are high season (ie December to March) rates, which can be double or more during events like Reggae Sumfest. #### Gloucester Ave (Hip Strip) Hotel GlorianaHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %970-0669; www.hotelgloriana.com; 1-2 Sunset Blvd; r US$46-65; p a W s) The word 'glorious' might be overdoing it, but the Gloriana, run by a pugnacious local lady who has written a book _and_ made a film, is excellent value for money, located within suitcase-dragging distance of the airport and safe walking distance of the Hip Strip action. Austere from the outside, the inside is a veritable mini-resort with a fountain-embellished pool, recently updated rooms and a restaurant where Jamaicans easily outnumber tourists. Don WayHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.donwayja.com; 36 Gloucester Ave; d US$89; p a W) A new mini complex that styles itself as 'a Jamaican village', Don Way claims boutique hotel status, though it lacks a defining character. Rooms are clean and modern, but beware the onsite attractions – bar, grill, wine shop and pool tables – that sometimes draw in a lot of noisy outsiders. Caribic HouseHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-6073; 69 Gloucester Ave; d without/with seaview US$67/79; a W) This no-frills spot across the street from Doctor's Cave Beach is a favorite for the budget-minded. The rooms are basic, the hot water doesn't always work and there's no real communal area, but, what the hell – you're a backpacker, right? oPolkerris B&BB&B ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-877-7784; www.polvista.com; 31 Corniche Rd; r US$165-175; p a W s) The best B&B in Jamaica? Maybe. The best B&B in Montego Bay? No question. Hanging above the Hip Strip like a beautiful apparition, Polkerris, run by a British expat and his Jamaican wife, is sublime in every detail. There's the trickling waterfall, the inviting swimming pool, the view-embellished veranda, the stupendous breakfast and – most importantly – the one-of-the-family style service that reminds you warmly that you're in the real Jamaica. Gloucestershire HotelHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-952-4420; www.hotelcomthegloucestershirehotel.com; 92 Gloucester Ave; s/d $97/112; p a i W s) A recent refurb at the venerable Gloucestershire has added some modern boutique touches to its glistening white frontage – the faux-grand facade wouldn't look out of place in a British seaside resort, circa 1973. Investigate closer and you'll find some welcome extras including a reasonably equipped gym, Jacuzzi, swimming pool and almost elegant bar and restaurant. Altamont WestHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-9378, 979-9378; www.altamontwesthotel.com; 33 Gloucester Ave; r US$110-180; p a W s) Bright Caribbean colors lure hotel window-shoppers into one of the Hip Strip's better accommodation options. A baby grand piano furnishes the front veranda (good sign!) and there are plenty of local Jamaican motifs dotted around to remind you this is the real deal. Rooms don't quite match the salubrious common areas, but they are clean, so who cares? Tobys ResortHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-4370; www.tobyresorts.com; cnr Gloucester Ave & Sunset Blvd; s/d/tr US$140/150/170; p a W s) Located just off the 'top' of the Hip Strip, Tobys provides admirable local vibe with amenities geared for international travelers not averse to stepping outside the all-inclusive. Staff make Tobys feel like a gracious guesthouse, but with the benefits of large grounds, comfy rooms, a big pool, and a good bar and restaurant. WexfordHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-2854; www.thewexfordhotel.com; 39 Gloucester Ave; s/d US$114/126; p a i W s) This hotel has undergone quite a few sprucings, and they've all been for the better. Rooms in the older wings are efficient but comfortable, while the newer wing offers more expensive digs decked out in minimalist boutique-style elegance. The Wexford is convenient for Aquasol theme park and its beach, to which guests have free access. Royal Decameron Montego Beach ResortRESORT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-4340; www.decameron.com; 2 Gloucester Ave; all-incl r US$185-220; p a i s) The Hip Strip's only all-inclusive is a low-key version of the genre where 143 rooms with creamy orange-and-white color schemes enjoy a pretty, private stretch of beach overlooked by a competent restaurant. Rooms all have ocean views and balconies and there is a wide range of activities including tennis, kids games and water sports to satisfy its savvy and loyal clientele. #### Miranda Hill Jamaica Grandiosa ResortGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-3205; www.grandiosahotel.com; 3 Ramparts Close; s/d US$95/105; p a s) This unassuming hilltop property has 38 rooms with modest furnishings, cable TV, grandiose views and varying quality – some are kept quite clean, but others have faulty hot water and rusty furnishings. The dining room has a lofty vista. There's a small breeze-swept pool and sundeck, plus a pool table and an undistinguished bar. El GrecoAPARTMENTS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %940-6116; www.elgrecojamaica.com; 34 Queens Dr; 1-/2-bedroom apt US$105/195; p a W s) More like a condo-rental than a hotel, El Greco is a nice choice for those who value their comfort and independence. The apartments have cable TV and kitchens, and private balconies that look out over a well-equipped complex that includes a pool, laundry service, tennis courts and kids play area. Relax. This is an efficiently run operation. #### Around Montego Bay In the following places you're a taxi ride (shared and public, or private and pricey) away from the Hip Strip. Bethel CourtHOSTEL ( %971-0134, 476-7239; bethelcourt.wordpress.com; Federal Ave; dm/r from US$20/40; p a W) Located in the peripheral, sometimes volatile, neighborhood of Mt Salem, Bethel Court is one of the few dedicated hostels in Jamaica. Run by the friendly Steve, who works hard to help set up tours and arrange transportation, it offers dorms and pretty basic private suites. The slightly out-of-the-way location necessitates route taxis to get in and out of town. The View Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-3175; www.theviewguesthouseja.com; 56 Jarrett Tce; r $50; a s) On the southeast edge of town on the downslope of Mt Salem Rd is this family-run, extremely friendly option. Rooms are basic but clean and come with a lot of love. Return guests are fanatic in their loyalty to this place. Home-cooked meals are served, and it has a communal kitchen and bar, plus a view overlooking the city. oRichmond Hill InnHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-3859; www.richmond-hill-inn.com; Union St; s/d/ste US$85/115/189; p a W s) Stay in a historic Great House within Montego Bay's city limits. This spectacularly located gem atop a small hill once belonged to the Scotch whiskey heirs and is bedizened with fine local art, antique furniture and the ghosts of prestigious former guests. Richard Nixon and James Bond in his third incarnation (Roger Moore) both stayed here. Spacious rooms are a relative bargain. Relax ResortRESORT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-0656; www.relax-resort.com; 26 Hobbs Ave; r US$140, studio US$162, 1-/2-bed apt US$174/265; p a i W s) This breeze-swept resort is often used as a layover for tourists whose flights have been delayed, which means it gets a bad rap in Tripadvisor reviews by people who have just sauntered out of a Sandals or a Hilton. Nonetheless, those without sky-high expectations will enjoy the ample grounds and large rooms adorned with floral prints, tile floors and ocean views. 5Eating Montego Bay is a good place to sample 'haute' Jamaican food – fancy takes on traditional Caribbean cuisine. The steady influx of free-spending vacationers, many of whom are desperate to escape the tyranny of the all-inclusive meal plan, means there are plenty of upmarket restaurants. Cheap local eats are tough to find on the Hip Strip. As per usual, if you see a jerk stand on the side of the road billowing clouds of blue smoke and attracting lots of locals, eat at it. ### QUICK EATS IN MOBAY If you're in a rush or on the cheap or both, meat patties are always a good snack that could double as a meal. In MoBay, it's the usual toss-up between the ubiquitous Juici Patties ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 36 St James St; J$150; h7am-10pm Mon-Sat) and the equally common Tastee Patty ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-5537; www.tasteejamaica.com; 13 Barnett St; patties from J$150; h7am-10pm Mon-Sat). For a break from the chains, try Butterflake Pastries ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-952-0070; 2 Union St; pastries from J$100; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat), good for cheap meat and vegetable patties. For bakeries that serve sweeter baked goods like cakes and cookies, hit the Viennese Bakery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; cnr Union & Fort Sts; pastries from J$100; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat). There's also a good alfresco vegetarian place with I-tal rasta food called Millennium Victory ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %887-5545; www.millenniumvictory.weebly.com; 65 Barnett St; mains J$300-700; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 8:30am-3pm Sun ; v); look out for the colorful murals. #### Downtown Nyam 'n' JamJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-952-1922; 17 Harbour St; mains J$300-700; h8am-11pm) On the cusp of the craft market, you can retreat into the red glow of a truly authentic Jamaican dining experience with none of the tourist get-out clauses of the Hip Strip. Settle down for snapper with a spicy sauce, jerk chicken or perhaps your first curried goat. AdwaVEGETARIAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %940-7618; City Centre Mall; mains J$180-400; h8am-9pm; v) Tiny space in a health-food shop in a small shopping mall that mixes up fantastic cheap vegetarian and I-tal fare, fruit juice and silky smoothies. The curry tofu and soy patties are delicious, and can be boxed up and taken to the beach. Pier OneAMERICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %286-7208; www.pieronejamaica.com; Howard Cooke Blvd; mains US$8-18; h11am-11pm daily, till 2am Wed) Best known as a nightclub, Pier One also has a restaurant with a good, clean, waterfront setting – all of which are more of a draw than the average sandwiches, burgers and seafood. Usain Bolt sometimes 'bolts' in. #### Gloucester Ave (Hip Strip) oPork PitJERK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-1046; 27 Gloucester Ave; mains J$300-800; h11am-11pm) 'Pit' is the operative word at this glorified food shack on the Hip Strip where a half-roasted chef slaves over a blackened barbecue fashioned from bamboo sticks laid over smoking hot coals. Notwithstanding, his meat-cooking travails send a delicious aroma wafting down Gloucester Ave and provide a perfect advert for the Pork Pit's obligatory jerk pork. Get it scooped straight off the barbecue into a Styrofoam container and sit down at a picnic table under the Pork Pit's 300-year-old cotton tree. It's a MoBay rite of passage. Chilli PepperJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %257-4850; Montego Arcade, Gloucester Ave; mains J$700; h7am-midnight Mon-Wed, 7am-1:30am Thu-Sat, 7am-1:30pm Sun) Ask a local for eating directions and you could well end up in this six-table Hip Strip hole-in-the-wall where the flavorful food arrives fast (unusual for Jamaica). You can play away with so-so international options (pizzas, burgers), but the homemade curried goat and smoothies are best. CC's Coffee & CupcakesCAFE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %633-7550; 36 Gloucester Ave; pastries from US$2; h24 hr; W) Dive in off the hot Hip Strip for gulps of refreshing air-conditioned air, passable lattes and sweet cupcakes. There's also wi-fi and some savory snacks. It practically never closes. Berry College Restaurant JAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-0045; 1 Sunset Blvd, Hotel Gloriana; mains US$8-10; h7am-10pm) In the courtyard of the Gloriana Hotel, this home-style Jamaican eatery demands a long wait for good food made from scratch. The menu features time-honored favorites like pepperpot soup, roast pumpkin and a unique, delectable snack that you'll want to take along for the ride: baked coconut chips. The breakfasts are equally robust. Cafe TeaseCAFE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %618-3644; 55 Gloucester Ave; snacks J$300-600; h10am-7pm Mon-Tue, 10am-5pm Wed-Sun) Simple walk-up window in the Hip Strip where you can escape the entreaties of the shopkeepers/taxi drivers with an iced coffee or a jerk hot dog. Golden DynastyCHINESE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %971-0459; 39 Gloucester Ave; mains J$400-800; hnoon-10pm) Mid-priced, mid-flavor and mid-satisfying, Golden Dynasty represents MoBay's small Chinese population and provides an answer to your chow mein dilemma. Candy Shack Ice CreamICE CREAM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-5172; 75 Gloucester Ave; ice cream J$200-400; h10am-6pm) Just the ticket on a hot day on the Hip Strip. Try the reggae rainbow flavor. Biggs BBQ Restaurant & BarAMERICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-9488; www.biggsbbqmobay.com; Gloucester Ave; mains US$13-22; hnoon-midnight) This newcomer on the Hip Strip, perched on a terrace above a thin ribbon of accessible beach, lives up to its name – the portions are BIG in an unashamedly American way, especially the double-decker sandwiches. Eschew the frigidly air-conditioned interior with its obnoxious big-screen TVs showing American football and pose on the deck instead. oPelicanJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-3171; Gloucester Ave; mains US$12-38; h7am-11pm) Loved by upper-crust Jamaicans and tourists on away-days from the all-inclusive buffets, Pelican is goat-curry heaven, though the oxtail's not bad either. Opened the same year Jamaica gained independence (1962) and armed with the same chef since the early 1980s, this seminal Hip Strip restaurant has fully earned its right to be called a MoBay institution. Marguerite'sJAMAICAN, FUSION ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-4777; Gloucester Ave; mains US$32-48; h6-10:30pm) This celebrated restaurant provides a lovely setting from which to watch the sunset while drinking cocktails, followed by dinner on the elegant clifftop patio. The pricey (some would say overpriced) menu edges toward nouvelle Jamaican and fresh seafood, but also includes sirloin steak and inventive pasta. The chef displays his culinary chops at a central flambé grill. #### Around Montego Bay Evelyn'sJAMAICAN ( %952-3280; Kent Ave, Whitehouse; mains J$300-700; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) Fantastic choice: a true local's spot, this rustic seafood shack (near Sandals Montego Bay) is also patronized by some very in-the-know tourists. The food tends to be rich yet refined – layered and pleasantly oily without being overwhelmingly heavy (as is often the case in Jamaica). Day-O PlantationJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-1825; Fairfield Plantation; mains US$8-22; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; v) Ignore the cheesy name of this place if you can and just focus on the fact that this spot, about 3km southeast of Montego Bay proper, is hands-down romantic. Housed in a beautiful mansion, it elegantly makes use of colonial furnishings and serves some very fine food, including one of the best high-end vegetarian menus in the area. oHouseboat GrillJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-8845; Southern Cross Blvd; mains US$15-32; h4-11pm Tue-Sun) Moored in Bogue Bay at Montego Bay Freeport, this converted houseboat is one of the best restaurants in the country. The changing menu offers eclectic Caribbean fusion cuisine: tiger shrimp in a fiery red curry, or beef medallions with goat's cheese and plantain mashed potatoes, plus homemade ice cream. You can dine inside, or reclusively out on the moondeck. Reservations are strongly recommended, especially on weekends. 6Drinking & Nightlife The nightlife in Montego Bay ranges from the obnoxious to the lethargic, with little bits of 'that was actually pretty fun' sprinkled throughout. The Hip Strip can be surprisingly sedate while upscale hotels mostly have lackluster live bands, so if you're looking for the big party, it may be best to head over to Negril. Local bars outside of the Hip Strip can get lively, but if you plan to venture beyond Fort St after dark, you may want to do so with some Jamaican friends. That said, more locals party on the Hip Strip than you might think – the area is popular with middle-class Jamaicans. Richmond HillBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Union St, Richmond Hill Inn) This elegant Great House that flutters celestially over MoBay's shabby Canterbury neighborhood is a blissful place to go for cocktails at dusk when the sun's dying orb reflects onto the Italianate swimming pool. Beware the rum punch shaken (not stirred) by the convivial barman: it's a potent brew. MoBay ProperBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Fort St; hnoon-midnight) Proper is often packed with locals and expats returned to the motherland. It's a friendly, occasionally raucous spot, and probably the easiest bar for tourists to access off the Hip Strip. Beneath a 'chandelier' of Heineken bottles, the pool table generates considerable heat, while dominoes are the rage with an older crowd out on the patio. Reggae BarBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Gloucester Ave; hnoon-midnight) An upstairs bar in a two-story Hip Strip shack where the hustlers take time off from hustling to down a few Red Stripe beers to a back-beat of Bob Marley and the click of pool balls. Cheap, but not at all nasty. Jimmy Buffett's MargaritavilleBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.margaritavillecaribbean.com; Gloucester Ave; entry after 10pm US$10; h11am-10pm) Of the three Margaritavilles in Jamaica, this one actually offers something like a local nightlife experience. Seriously – don't slam the book shut yet! By day, yes, it's a tourist trap. But as night falls, a lot of Jamaicans like to come here, and, well, dance. There are some big ugly tiki heads and a waterslide that carries revelers through the plumbing and flushes them ignominiously into the ocean, where their fellow booze cruisers await on a docked catarmaran. Blue Beat Jazz & Blues BarLOUNGE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Gloucester Ave; h10pm-2am) Blue Beat kind of feels like a collection of clichés of what a classy cocktail bar should look like (smooth metal furnishing, dim lighting, dark curtains and a general sense of heavily cologned polish throughout); but as Montego Bay's first jazz and blues martini bar, it rocks its style with live music nightly, along with Asian-Caribbean fusion cuisine. Pier OneCLUB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Howard Cooke Blvd) If you're into big nightclubs, Pier One is the place to go in Montego Bay. It attracts a largely local crowd, all dressed to impress and dancing as if their lives depended on it. The music is earsplitting, the dance floor is crowded and sweaty (especially on Friday nights) and the light shows will leave you seeing spots for days afterward. Montego Bay Yacht ClubPRIVATE CLUB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-8038; www.mobayyachtclub.com; Montego Bay Freeport; h10am-11pm) This rum-happy haunt attracts an eclectic crowd that includes crusty old sea-salts and expats eager to talk about their new boats. Nonmembers must be signed in as guests, but this is rarely an issue. 3Entertainment Fairfield TheatreTHEATER ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-0182; Fairfield Rd; hshows 8pm) The home stage of MoBay's innovative Little Theatre Company; check its Facebook page (just search for 'Fairfield Theatre') for info on upcoming shows. Palace MultiplexCINEMA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-8359; Alice Eldemire Dr, Fairview Shopping Centre) First-run Hollywood flicks. 7Shopping Craft MarketsMARKETS For the largest crafts selection head to the Harbour Street Craft Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Harbour St; h7am-7pm), which extends for three blocks between Barnett and Market Sts. Fantasy Craft Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; h8am-7pm), at the northern end of Gloucester Ave, and Fort Montego Craft Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; h8am-7pm), behind the fort, offer less variety and quality. You can expect a hard sell at all of these places, so bring your haggling skills and don't be afraid to walk away from something you don't like. Gallery of West Indian ArtART ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-4547; www.galleryofwestindianart.com; 11 Fairfield Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9am-2pm Thu, 10am-3pm Sat) In the suburb of Catherine Hall, this is the best quality gallery in town. It sells genuinely original arts and crafts from around the Caribbean including Cuban canvases, hand-painted wooden animals, masks and handmade jewelry. Most of the work here is for sale. Information Dangers & Annoyances The well-policed Hip Strip (Gloucester Ave) is safe from criminals, but hustling may be an issue. There are aggressive hucksters in MoBay who will size you up and either try to charm or intimidate you out of a few bucks (or more) if they think you're green. Walk with purpose wherever you go; if you look lost or confused, you'll be an easier mark. That said, don't be afraid to ask for directions (shopkeepers are usually helpful, especially downtown). Once you get downtown, the main drag (Fort St) is generally fine, but don't wander too far afield from it after dark; east of here, past Orange St, is a squatter neighborhood called Canterbury that's best avoided. You'll also want to steer clear of Flankers near the airport and parts of the Mount Salem neighborhood. Just across from the KFC that sits between the Hip Strip and downtown MoBay is a sparsely-vegetated field fronting a bit of sand known, pretty accurately, as Dump-Up Beach. It is best to avoid this area, especially at night. This is a popular spot for muggings, which are known to occur even in broad daylight. Only ever use official taxis, identifiable by their red number plates and prescribed route emblazoned on the side of the car. Emergency Police StationsPOLICE Barnett St ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-1557, 952-2333; 14 Barnett St); Catherine Hall ( %952-4997, 953-6309; cnr Southern Cross Rd & Howard Cooke Blvd, Catherine Hall); Church St ( %952-5310, 952-4396; 29 Church St); Union St ( %940-3500; 49 Union St) Medical Services You'll find plenty of pharmacies downtown. Cornwall Regional HospitalHOSPITAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-5100; Mt Salem Rd) Has a 24-hour emergency ward. Fontana PharmacyPHARMACY ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-3860; Fairview Shopping Centre; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm Sun) The best-stocked and largest pharmacy in town. Money At Donald Sangster International Airport there's a 24-hour money-exchange bureau and a branch of National Commercial Bank in the arrivals hall, but it doesn't change at good rates. You'll need local currency to take the bus into town, but taxis accept US dollars. Better rates can be found on the main strip. Downtown, several bureaus can be found on St James St and Fort St; look for 'cambio' signs. Banks on Sam Sharpe Sq and in the Baywest Shopping Center all have 24-hour ATMs. Flanking the Doctor's Cave Beach Club are ATMs operated by National Commercial Bank and Scotiabank. The cruise-ship terminal is served by a branch of National Commercial Bank in the Montego Freeport Shopping Centre. Cambio KingEXCHANGE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %971-5260; Gloucester Ave; h9am-2pm Mon-Thu, 9am-4pm Fri) Currency exchange, northern end of the street. First Global BankBANK ( %971-5260; 53 Gloucester Ave; h9am-3pm Mon-Thu, 9am-4pm Fri) Post Post OfficePOST OFFICE Fort St ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-7016; Fort St); White Sands Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-5137; Gloucester Ave, White Sands Beach) Tourist Information Jamaica Tourist BoardTOURIST INFORMATION ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-3009; Donald Sangster International Airport; hfor flight arrivals) In the arrivals hall at Donald Sangster International Airport. Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Gloucester Ave, Old Hospital Park; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Sat) On the Hip Strip. Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %979-7987; Harbour St; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Sat) The most helpful staff. It's in the Harbour Street Craft Market. Useful Websites Warning: none of these sites are particularly good at updating. Official Visitors GuideTOURIST INFORMATION (www.montego-bay-jamaica.com) The most extensive online resource for MoBay and environs. Visit JamaicaTOURIST INFORMATION (www.visitjamaica.com) The official line on the city from the Jamaica Tourism Board. What's On JamaicaTOURIST INFORMATION (www.whatsonjamaica.com) Entertainment and culture listings. Getting There & Away Air Air Jamaica operates jet and prop-plane services between MoBay's Donald Sangster International Airport and Kingston's Norman Manley International Airport and Tinson Pen (US$60 each way, several flights daily). Get tickets at the Montego Bay office or at the airport. TimAir, an 'air taxi' service, offers charter flights to Negril (US$179), Ocho Rios (US$362), Port Antonio (US$599) and Kingston (US$483). Boat Cruise ships berth at the Montego Freeport, about 3km south of town. Taxis to downtown MoBay cost US$15. The savvy walk out of the port gates and flag cheaper route taxis. Montego Bay Yacht Club ( %979-8038; fax 979-8262; www.mobayyachtclub.com; Montego Freeport) has hookups, gasoline and diesel, and will handle immigration and customs procedures. Bus & Minibus Comfortable Knutsford Express buses ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %971-1822; www.knutsfordexpress.com) run from their own bus terminal next to Pier One near downtown MoBay. Book tickets more than 24 hours in advance for a small discount. Be at the bus station 30 minutes before departure to register your ticket. Services: **Falmouth** J$800, 30 minutes, six daily **Kingston** J$2450, four hours, seven daily **Mandeville** J$2000, three hours, one daily **Negril** J$1400, 1¼ hours, two daily **Ocho Rios** J$1600, two hours, six daily Other public buses, minibuses and route taxis arrive and depart from the transportation center ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) off Barnett St at the south end of St James St. There's an inspector's office ( h7am-6pm) inside the gate where you can ask for the departure point of the bus you're seeking. Minibuses (ie vans) run directly to Ocho Rios (J$250 to J$300, two hours; onward transfers to Port Antonio and Kingston) and Lucea (J$200, one to 1½ hours; onward transfers to Negril), though some minibuses will continue on to Negril, thus eliminating the need for a transfer. More land routes can be accessed via share taxis. Private Taxi Jamaica Union of Travelers Association (JUTA; %952-0813) has taxi stands on Gloucester Ave at the Gloucestershire and Coral Cliff hotels and at Doctor's Cave Beach Hotel, downtown at the junction of Market and Strand Sts, and by the bus station. Identify JUTA members by the red plates and JTB decal emblazoned on their vehicles. A list of official JUTA fares from Montego Bay is posted at the airport. At last visit, certified fares from the airport for up to four passengers: Falmouth (US$75), Kingston (US$200), Negril (US$100), Ocho Rios (US$100) and Port Antonio (US$250). Route Taxi Shared (also known as route or public) taxis, identifiable by their red number plates, are located downtown at the junction of Market and Strand Sts, and by the Barnett St transportation center. Taxis run when full to locations like Falmouth (J$150), Lucea (J$200), Anchovy (J$150), Savanna-la-Mar (J$300), Ocho Rios (J$350) and smaller towns in between. You can almost always find a taxi early in the morning or around 4pm to 5pm (ie commuting hours); there will likely be a wait at other times of the day, and long-distance taxi service slacks off after sunset. It's always easier to get a ride to towns on the coast compared to towns in the interior. Getting Around You can walk between any place along Gloucester Ave and downtown (it's about 2.5km from Kent Ave to Sam Sharpe Sq). You'll need a taxi for anywhere further. To/From the Airport You'll find taxis waiting outside the arrivals lounge at the airport. There is an official taxi booth immediately outside customs. Your taxi driver will probably call for a porter...who'll expect a tip for taking your luggage the 10m to your car. A tourist taxi to Gloucester Ave costs US$10. Alternatively, you can catch a minibus or route taxi from the gas station at the entrance to the airport (J$100). Public Transportation Montego Bay Metro Line ( %952-5500; 19a Union St) bus service was introduced in 2001, linking MoBay with the suburbs and outlying towns (a flat fare of US$0.35 applies). Services depart and arrive at the transportation center near the junction of St James and Barnett Sts. Taxi Licensed JUTA taxis cruise Gloucester Ave; they charge a steep US$10 minimum. Published fares from Gloucester Ave are US$10 to the airport, US$23 to Greenwood, US$15 to Ironshore, US$15 to Montego Freeport and US$15 to Rose Hall. ## East Coast to Rio Bueno East of Montego Bay the A1 hugs the coast all the way to Falmouth, 37km away, passing through the resort-heavy districts of Ironshore, Rose Hall and Greenwood. ### MONTEGO BAY'S ALL-INCLUSIVE HOTELS Most of Montego Bay's all-inclusive resorts are set apart from the city in the upper-crust districts of Ironshore and Rose Hall to the east, neighborhoods embellished by modern shopping malls and manicured golf courses. Cream of the crop is the Half Moon ( %953-2211, in the USA 877-626-0592; www.halfmoon.rockresorts.com; r from US$489, ste from US$750, villas from US$2000; p a W s), the favored turf of queens and princes, which feels more like a utopian village than a resort. Also here is the Hilton Rose Hall ( %953-2650, in the USA 866-799-3661; www.rosehallresort.com; all-incl r from US$429-499; p a i W s), a humungous place with its own golf course, water park and 300m-long beachfront. Just east of the airport and closer to Montego Bay is Coyaba Beach Resort & Club ( %953-9150, 800-237-3237; www.coyabaresortjamaica.com; r US$300-380, all-incl US$412-492; p i s), different from the other behemoths in that it is family run, relatively small (50 rooms) and boutique in style. Nearby are two of the popular Sandals hotels: Sandals Montego Bay ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-5510; www.sandals.com; N Kent Ave; all-incl r from US$435; p a W s), one of the great-grand-daddies of all-inclusive resorts, and Sandals Royal Caribbean ( %953-2231; www.sandals.com/main/royal/rj-home; 3 nights all-incl r from US$1500, ste from US$2200; p a W s), a couples-only outpost of the Sandals empire that lays on nostalgia for the British Empire. Slightly closer to MoBay's city center on the Freeport Peninsula near the cruise ship terminal are two more all-inclusives: the high-rise Sunset Beach Resort & Spa ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %800-888-1199, 979-8800; www.sunsetbeachjamaica.com; Sunset Dr; all-incl r from $US260; p a W s) and the closely guarded, couples-only Secrets St James ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %953-6600; www.secretsresorts.com; Freeport; r from US$450; p a i W s). ### Ironshore & Rose Hall As you head east of Montego Bay the coast becomes a long stretch of screensaver-worthy beach, speckled with golf courses, all-inclusive resorts, high-end condos and expensive malls, all of which are marketed at wealthy tourists and the Jamaican upper class, many of whom opt to live here instead of the ritzier suburbs of Kingston. Ironshore, about 8km east of Montego Bay, is the epicenter of this little window of luxury. Further east is Rose Hall. 1Sights oGreenwood Great HouseGREAT HOUSE ( %953-1077; www.greenwoodgreathouse.com; admission adult/child US$20/10; h9am-6pm) This marvelous estate sits high on a hill 11km east of Ironshore. While the region's main attraction is Rose Hall, visiting Greenwood is a far more intimate and, frankly, interesting experience. The furnishings are more authentic, the tour less breakneck than Rose Hall's, and there's none of the silly ghost stories – although the exterior edifice is admittedly not as impressive. Construction of the two-story, stone-and-timber structure was begun in 1780 by the Honorable Richard Barrett, whose family arrived in Jamaica in the 1660s and amassed a fortune from its sugar plantations. (Barrett was a cousin of the famous English poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning.) In an unusual move for his times, Barrett educated his slaves. Unique among local plantation houses, Greenwood survived unscathed during the slave rebellion of Christmas 1831. The original library is still intact, as are oil paintings, Dresden china, a court-jester's chair and plentiful antiques, including a mantrap used for catching runaway slaves (one of the few direct references we found in any Jamaican historical home to the foundations of the plantation labor market, ie slavery). Among the highlights is the rare collection of musical instruments, containing a barrel organ and two polyphones, which the guide is happy to bring to life. The view from the front balcony down to the sea is stunning. Rose Hall Great HouseGREAT HOUSE ( %953-2323; www.rosehall.com; adult/child under 12 US$20/10; h9am-6pm, last tour 5:15pm) This mansion, with its commanding hilltop position 3km east of Ironshore, is the most famous Great House in Jamaica. Construction was begun by George Ashe in the 1750s and was completed in the 1770s by John Palmer, a wealthy plantation owner. Palmer and his wife Rose (after whom the house was named) hosted some of the most elaborate social gatherings on the island. Slaves destroyed the house in the Christmas Rebellion of 1831 and it was left in ruins for over a century. In 1966 the three-story building was restored to its haughty grandeur. Beyond the Palladian portico the house is a bastion of historical style, with a magnificent mahogany staircase and doors, and silk wall-fabric that is a reproduction of the original designed for Marie Antoinette during the reign of Louis XVI. Unfortunately, because the house was cleaned out by looters back in the 19th century, almost all of the period furnishings were brought in from elsewhere, and quite a few are from the wrong century. With that said, the imported furnishings are the genuine article, and many are the work of past leading English master carpenters. Much of the attraction is the legend of Annie Palmer, a multiple murderer said to haunt the house. Her bedroom upstairs has been (re)decorated in crimson silk brocades because, y'know, red is the color of blood. The cellar now houses an English-style pub and has a well-stocked gift shop haunted by the ghosts of tacky souvenirs. There's also a snack bar. Tours of the house are mandatory and commence every 15 minutes till 5:15pm. 2Activities Most all-inclusive resorts have scuba facilities and snorkeling gear for guests. Half Moon Equestrian CentreHORSE RIDING ( %953-9489; www.horsebackridingjamaica.com; hbeach ride 7am & 4pm, pony ride 9am-noon & 2-5pm; c) The lovely grounds of this center, west of Half Moon Village, are a nice slice of the Kentucky bluegrass in paradise with well-kept horses. The main draw is the classic bareback beach ride (US$100) during which you and your horse splash straight into the turquoise sea. For the kiddies there's also a pony ride (US$25). Riding lessons cost US$80 per 30 minutes. 4Sleeping Bird's NestHOSTEL ( %781-2190; www.thebirdsnestjamaica.com; 177 Patterson Dr, Ironshore; dm US$23-25, d US$35-45; a W s) Sporty hostel run by an enthusiastic group of kite-surfers who catch some gusts (and waves) in nearby Bounty Bay on the other side of Falmouth. In the true tradition of Jamaican hostels, it's small (two private doubles and two dorm rooms), but friendly. Pros: a pool, hammocks and a tranquil garden. Con: Ironshore location requires taxis or long walks. Royal Reef Hotel & RestaurantHOTEL ( %953-1700; www.royalreefja.com; Hwy A1, Greenwood; s/d US$91/100; p a s) On the A1 at Greenwood, this gracious, modern Mediterranean-style hotel has 19 rooms. Its decor includes classical wrought-iron furnishings and exquisite tropical murals. An elevated amoeba-shaped pool is inset in the terracotta terrace, which has an outside grill overlooking a tiny beach overgrown by mangroves. The excellent continental cuisine is served both alfresco and in an intimate dining room. AtriumAPARTMENTS ( %953-2605; atrium@cwjamaica.com; 1084 Morgan Rd, Ironshore; apt US$120; a s) The Atrium bills itself as a collection of villas, but these are more like very modern, comfortable condominium units. Each one is blandly stylish in a freshly-furnished-by-Ikea kinda way, and comes with a kitchen if you want to cook for yourself. Located near the Blue Diamond Shopping Centre. 5Eating oScotchiesJERK ( %953-8041; Hwy A1, Ironshore; 0.5lb portion US$7; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm Sun) Many Jamaicans will tell you that (a) Scotchies serves the best 'sit-down' jerk in the northwest, if not all of Jamaica, and (b) the quality has slipped a bit with popularity. Savvy outsiders nod in agreement. 'Ya mon.' This is excellent quality jerk. But the locals are right – it's not the best on the island, despite the hype. Far Out Fish HutSEAFOOD ( %954-7155; Hwy A1, Greenwood; mains $J400-800; hnoon-11pm) East of Greenwood Great House, look along the coast for a trailer painted to look like a sea-blue slice of the ocean and you've found the Far Out Fish Hut, one of the finest purveyors of seafood on the north coast. This is a locals' spot where you sit under thatch and order very fresh seafood for a very good price. Getting There & Away A great number of minibuses and route taxis ply the A1 road, traveling to and from Donald Sangster International Airport and Montego Bay's transportation center, Gloucester Ave and downtown. You'll pay about J$100 to travel from MoBay to Ironshore; J$120 to Rose Hall. Private taxis cost US$35. ### Falmouth Pop 9500 Built on riches amassed from sugar and slavery, and advanced enough by the early 19th century to have running water before even New York City, Falmouth feels like a sunken Titanic recently raised from the deep. Little altered architecturally since the 1840s when slave emancipation dramatically reversed its fortunes, the town retains one of the finest ensembles of Tropical-Georgian buildings in the Caribbean. For anyone with even a passing interest in Jamaican history and architecture, Falmouth is an essential stopover. Not only is the town attractive in a disheveled, undone kind of way, it has recently introduced a trio of community-led walking tours that lucidly bring to life the people and stories that shaped it. In 2011, Falmouth opened a massive new cruise-ship terminal furnished in mock Georgian style and kitted out with various shops and restaurants, all of them off-limits to unauthorized Jamaicans. Surprisingly, the development hasn't really spoiled the town's gritty Jamaican-ness. Most of the cruisers, who arrive on mega-liners that dock thrice weekly, are whisked straight off the gated port compound in air-conditioned minibuses on organized day-trips. Meanwhile, the town itself carries on much as it has always done; a vivid documentary of everyday Jamaican life. Old ladies in their Sunday best congregate outside the limestone-bricked English-style church, lazy dogs lie prostrate in quiet sun-bleached squares, and market traders ply roasted yam and sugar cane under the pretty gingerbread verandas of commerce-packed Harbour Lane. Stick around and join in the street theater. History Falmouth was laid out in 1769 and named for the English birthplace of Sir William Trelawny, then the governor of the island. The streets were planned as a grid and patriotically named after members of the royal family and English heroes. Planters erected their townhouses using Georgian elements adapted to Jamaican conditions. With its advantageous position, Falmouth became the busiest port on the north coast. Outbound trade consisted mainly of hogsheads (large casks) of wet sugar and puncheons (casks) of rum, while slaves were offloaded for sale in the slave market. The town's fortunes degenerated when the sugar industry went into decline during the 19th century and it was dealt a further blow with the advent of steamships, which the harbor was incapable of handling. By 1890 the port was essentially dead. The city has struggled along ever since. A new cruise-ship dock was opened in Falmouth in March 2011 large enough to accommodate the world's second biggest cruise liner, the 6000-passenger _Oasis of the Seas_. #### DON'T MISS ### FALMOUTH HERITAGE WALKS Listed as an endangered historical monument, Falmouth, founded in 1769, harbors one of the Caribbean's most beguiling and architecturally homogenous townscapes. Preserving it is no easy task, not that this has dulled the efforts of robust local organizations run by people who are passionate about their town and its history. To gain a fuller appreciation of the settlement's historical importance and why it's worth protecting, join one of three tours offered by Falmouth Heritage Walks Ltd. The **Heritage Walking Tour** (adult/child US$25/15) is a two-hour ramble around Falmouth's small urban grid punctuated with handsome Tropical-Georgian architecture. The **Food Tour** (adult/child US$45/25) alternates cultural musings with tastings of street food, while the **Jewish Cemetery Tour** (adult/child US$15/10) visits a cemetery with gravestones etched in Hebrew. Walks usually take place on the days a cruise ship is in port (Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday at the time of writing). Check online for an updated schedule. 1Sights Water SquareSQUARE The best place to orient yourself is Water Sq, at the east end of Duke St. Named for an old circular stone reservoir dating from 1798, the square (actually a triangle) has a fountain topped by an old waterwheel. Today it forms a traffic roundabout, but back in the day this fountain pumped fresh water before New York City had any such luxury. Many of the wooden shop-fronts in this area are attractively disheveled relics. Albert George MarketMARKET The market structure on the east side of Water Sq, which dominates central Falmouth, was once the site of slave auctions. The current structure was built in 1894 and named, in honor of two of Queen Victoria's grandsons, Albert and George. CourthouseNOTABLE BUILDING One block east of Water Sq is Seaboard St and the grandiose Georgian courthouse in Palladian style, fronted by a double curling staircase and Doric columns, with cannons to the side. The current building, dating from 1926, is a replica of the original 1815 structure that was destroyed by fire. The town council presides here. Tharp HouseNOTABLE BUILDING (Seaboard St) Tharp House sags from age yet is still one of the best examples of an elegant period townhouse. Today housing the tax office, it was formerly the residence of John Tharp, at one time the largest slaveholder in Jamaica. Phoneix FoundryHISTORIC SITE (cnr Tharpe & Lower Harbour Sts) One of Falmouth's most distinctive buildings, Phoenix Foundry was built in 1810 and sports a strange-looking conical roof. Behind the foundry, guarded by locked gates, is the Central Wharf where slaves were brought ashore, to be replaced in the holds by sugar, rum and other victuals borne of their back-breaking labor. The crumbling warehouses are on their last legs. Baptist ManseHISTORIC SITE (cnr Market & Cornwall Sts) The restored Baptist Manse was formerly the residence of nonconformist Baptist preacher William Knibb, who was instrumental in lobbying for passage of the Abolition Bill that ended slavery. The porticoed post office is next door. Methodist ManseHISTORIC SITE At the bottom of colonnaded Market St stands the Methodist Manse, a stone-and-wood building with wrought-iron balconies and Adam friezes above the doorways. A diversion along Trelawny St leads one block west to **Barrett House** , which is sadly in a state of advanced disrepair. Police StationHISTORIC SITE (Rodney St) The oddly cute historic police station was constructed in 1814. The prison here once contained a treadmill: a huge wooden cylinder with steps on the outside. Shackled above the mill, slaves had to keep treading the steps as the cylinder turned. If they faltered, the revolving steps battered their bodies and legs. The ancient lockups are still in use. William Knibb Memorial ChurchCHURCH (cnr King & George Sts) On July 31, 1838, slaves gathered outside William Knibb Memorial Church for an all-night vigil, awaiting midnight and then the dawn of full freedom (to quote Knibbs: 'The monster is dead'), when slave-shackles, a whip and an iron collar were symbolically buried in a coffin. In the grounds of the churchyard you can find Knibb's grave, as well as that of his wife. A plaque inside the church displays the internment of these tools of slavery; to get in, ask for help at the Leaf of Life Hardware store on King St. 4Sleeping & Eating Falmouth ResortHOTEL ( %954-3391; 29 Newton St; r J$4600; p a) This 'resort' offers the only accommodations in the center of Falmouth. If you want to get a feel for bustling Jamaican downtown life, this is a good option. Though it doesn't broadcast enough polish to qualify as a resort, it's a clean, friendly spot with welcoming, helpful staff. Meals are prepared on request. Take an upstairs room for privacy and a view. oClub Nazz RestaurantBREAKFAST, JAMAICAN ( %617-5175; Market St, cnr Duke St; breakfast J$100-400, dinner J$450-600; h7:30am-9:30pm; W) You can't beat sitting on Nazz's unintentionally romantic streetside patio with a pot of piping hot Blue Mountain coffee and a piece of fruitcake watching the life of this historic city go cruising past. The word 'cruising' takes on a different meaning when a ship's in port and passengers pile in to order items off the extremely reasonable lunch menu. Tropical Bliss OasisCAFE (Albert George Market; snacks J$150-450; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat; W) Enjoy a moment or two of bliss with a fruit smoothie and sandwich at this pleasant perch in Albert George Market. Information Post OfficePOST OFFICE ( %954-3050; cnr Cornwall & Market Sts; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) ScotiabankBANK ( %954-3357; cnr Market & Lower Harbour Sts; h8:30am-2:30pm Mon-Thu, 8:30am-4pm Fri) Scotiabank also operates an ATM in the shopping center near the eastern edge of town. Getting There & Away Buses, minibuses and route taxis arrive and depart on opposite sides of Water Sq for Martha Brae (J$100, 15 to 20 minutes), Montego Bay (J$150, 45 minutes) and Ocho Rios (J$300, 80 minutes). The Knutsford Express stops in Glistening Waters 2km east of Falmouth from where you can flag down a route taxi (J$50) to bring you into town. Cruise ships arrive at the Port of Falmouth ( %876-617-2280; www.portoffalmouth.com; 2 King St) adjacent to the town center. ### Martha Brae Situated on a small hill and nearly encircled by the emerald-green waters of the scenic Martha Brae River, this small village 3km due south of Falmouth is justly famous for rafting. The river rises at Windsor Caves in Cockpit Country and spills into the sea at Glistening Waters, east of Falmouth. A **rafting trip** down a 4.8km stretch of the Martha Brae River is a quiet thrill. The journey takes 90 minutes on 9m-long bamboo rafts, each carrying one or two passengers, poled by a skilled guide. You'll head through a green tunnel of jungle, vines and cold mountain water; the whole experience can be quite romantic, depending on your tolerance of other people (the river gets crowded, as this is the most popular rafting spot in Jamaica). The upper reaches tumble at a good pace before slowing further downriver, where you stop at 'Tarzan's Corner' for a swing and swim in a calm pool. At the end, after being plied with rum punch, you'll be driven back to your car or tour bus. Trips begin from Rafters Village, about 1.5km south of Martha Brae. There you'll find an itinerant mento band and picnic area, bar, restaurant, swimming pool, bathrooms, changing rooms and a secure parking lot. Your captain will pause on request if you want to take a dip or climb a tree. Just about any hotel on the north Jamaican coast, from Negril to Ocho Rios, offers rafting packages on the Martha Brae. Obviously transfer charges will be tacked on, so a smarter method is booking your adventure at the Rafters Village office in Montego Bay. It's customary to tip your raft guide. Minibuses and route taxis regularly run to Martha Brae from Falmouth (J$100, 15 to 20 minutes). ### Glistening Waters Just east of Falmouth is one of the most incredible natural wonders of Jamaica, along with a smattering of good-value accommodations, clean beaches and one of the island's more innovative cultural exhibitions. The 25,000-seat **Trelawny Greenfield Stadium** is located opposite the small village of Rock. Built in 2007 for the Cricket World Cup, it also hosts football and music concerts. 1Sights & Activities Glistening Waters (Luminous Lagoon)LAGOON (½hr boat trip per person US$25; htours from 6:45pm) Glistening Waters, also known as 'Luminous Lagoon,' actually lives up to the substantial hype. Located in an estuary near Rock, 1.6km east of Falmouth, the water here boasts a singular charm – it glows an eerie green when disturbed. The green glow is due to the presence of microorganisms that produce photochemical reactions when stirred; the concentrations are so thick that fish swimming by look like green lanterns. Needless to say, swimming through the luminous lagoon is semi-hallucinogenic, especially on starry nights, when it's hard to tell where the water ends and the sky begins. The experience is made all the more surreal thanks to the mixing of salt- and freshwater from the sea and the Martha Brae River; the fresh water 'floats' on the saltwater, so you not only swim through green clouds of phosphoresence, but alternating bands of cold and warm. Half-hour boat trips are offered from Glistening Waters Marina ( %954-3229; per person US$25; h6:45-8:30pm). Any hotel from Ocho Rios to Negril should be able to organize a trip out here. There's a good-value restaurant located at the marina where you can get fresh fish prepared just about any way you like; you're charged based on the size of the fish. The restaurant opens to coincide with the arrival and departure of tour groups. OutameniCULTURAL VILLAGE ( %617-0948, 954-4035; www.outameni.com; admission US$30; hshows 3pm) Outameni is an interesting cultural village experience that takes visitors through Jamaican history, from the days of the Taíno to colonial settlement, slavery and up to the modern day via a 90-minute show that incorporates music, dance and film. It was being renovated at the time of research. It's located opposite the Royalton resort. Kiteboarding JamaicaKITEBOARDING ( %781-2190; www.kiteboardingjamaica.com; rental per day US$80, 1hr lesson US$70) Jamaica has recently appeared on the radar for kite-boarders thanks, in part, to its inclusion in the 2010 World Cup. The island's small kite-boarding fraternity congregates near Burwood Beach in Bounty Bay (next to Royalton White Sands Hotel), an unkempt but beautiful stretch of sand which catches some stiff breezes. There is a handful of operators, but this one is arguably the best. Lessons and board rentals are available. Fishing & BoatingFISHING The river mouth in Glistening Waters is one of the few places in Jamaica that still offers good fishing for tarpon, known as the 'silver bullet' for its feisty defense on a line. No license is required. There are at least two dozen captains offering charter services at the Glistening Waters Marina; call the marina to pre-arrange, or just show up and pick the captain who seems friendliest. Charter prices of around US$500 can be split between six to eight passengers. 4Sleeping oTime 'n' PlaceRESORT ( %843-3625; www.mytimenplace.com; cottages US$80; p a W) With four beach cabins set on a priceless patch of sand shaded by palms and pines, Time 'n' Place is the kind of place where you fall asleep to the throb of a distant reggae bass and wake up to the sound of lapping waves. An added bonus comes in the shape of charismatic owner, Tony, a legendary Jamaican character who has fiercely defended his slender slice of beach paradise from developers, environmental degradation and the criminal element for 23 years. Fisherman's InnHOTEL ( %954-4078, 954-3427; www.fishermansinnjamaica.com; s/d US$120/125; a W s) The perfect excuse to stay over in Glistening Waters after your psychedelic evening swim, Fisherman's Inn is a quiet, relaxed hotel with a good restaurant. All of the dozen bright white bedrooms face the bay with French windows opening directly onto a red wooden jetty with its own pool. A sublime place to relax. N ResortRESORT ( %876-617-2500; www.n-holidays.com; Oyster Bay; all-incl per person r US$273-336 ; p a i W s) Check your clothes at the door: the N stands for 'nude.' Jamaica's only bona fide clothes-optional resort opened in the early 2010s in the shell of a former family-orientated all-inclusive. It's a rustic affair with clean wooden accommodation blocks set right on the beach, though the resort retains some bizarre reminders of its previous incarnation (water slides!). Eschewing the party antics typical of some couples' resorts, N is for quieter, more discerning naturists – and all the better for it. Royalton White SandsRESORT ( %1-800-204-7982; www.royaltonresorts.com; all-incl r from US$439; a i W s) An old Breezes all-inclusive resort reborn as a Royalton in November 2013, this place is good for kids on account of its huge beachside waterpark. It's 3km east of Falmouth. Getting There & Away Minibuses and route taxis frequently travel the A1 road to and from Falmouth (J$50 to J$80), which is about 36km east of Montego Bay and 42km west of Runaway Bay. The Knutsford Express ( %971-1822; www.knutsfordexpress.com) Falmouth station is actually situated at Glistening Waters Marina 2km east of the town. There are six buses daily to Kingston (J$2200) via Ocho Rios (J$1200), and six buses to Montego Bay (J$800), two of which carry onto Negril (J$1500). Buses are less frequent at weekends. ### Duncans This small town on a hillside 11km east of Falmouth is a pretty place to base yourself if you want to be removed from resort sprawl, although it appears developers are buying up surrounding real estate at a fast pace, so this may not be the case for long. The village is centered on an old stone clock tower in the middle of a three-way junction. The highway diverts ongoing traffic around the town; keep watch for the turnoff from the A1. Minibuses and route taxis pick up and drop off passengers to/from Duncans at the clock tower in the town center. **Kettering Baptist Church** , built in 1893, is a creamy-colored building that commemorates William Knibb, the Baptist missionary and leading abolitionist who founded an emancipation village for freed slaves here in 1840. The grandparents of singer and activist Harry Belafonte used to own the Sober Robin ( %954-2202; r from US$35; p a), a cheerfully run-down inn-cum-pub situated on the old road that enters Duncans from the west. The lobby and lounge are atmospheric, with framed photos of classic movie stars, a small bar with table tennis and a pool table. Rooms are basic but clean and recently renovated. Silver Sands Villa Resort ( %888-745-7245, 954-7606; www.mysilversands.com; 1-/2-bed cottage from US$165/248, 3-/4-bed villas per week US$1650-2800; p a s), 1.5km west of Duncans, has more than 100 upscale one- to five-bedroom villas and cottages spread over 90 hectares. The cottages require a minimum three nights booking. The enclosed estate backs a private, 300m-long, white-sand beach which is kept pristine and gorgeous (nonguests can get access for US$25). Each unique villa is privately owned and individually decorated, and has a cook, housekeeper and gardener – this sort of personal service is frankly way above what you get at most all-inclusives. Most of the properties have TVs and their own pools. Weekly rates offer savings and include airport transfers. Facilities include a bar-grill, and there's a grocery store within the 'neighborhood' if you want to self-cater. Just west of the Silver Sands is the undone public **Jacob Taylor Beach** , where you'll find a small, mellow craft market and a rum shop. ### Rio Bueno Rio Bueno is a tumbledown fishing village, 10km east of Duncans, where fishers still tend their nets and lobster pots in front of ramshackle Georgian cut-stone buildings. These are featured in the 1964 movie _A High Wind in Jamaica,_ which was filmed here. The town is set on the west side of a deep, narrow bay that may be the site where Columbus first set foot in Jamaica on May 4, 1494, after anchoring his caravels _Nina,_ _San Juan_ and _Cardera._ You can pick around the 18th-century ruins of **Fort Dundas** , the whitewashed remains of **St Mark's Anglican church** that dates to 1833, and a **Baptist church** erected in 1901 to replace another destroyed in anti-missionary riots of the abolitionist era. All of these sites are currently in states of disrepair. More modern ruins may be found after super-resort Breezes Rio Bueno closes its doors (scheduled to occur soon). As of research, it was not clear what would become of the enormous hulk of the 226-room hotel. 1Activities Braco StablesHORSE RIDING ( %954-0185; www.bracostables.com; per person with/without transfers US$70/60; hrides 10:30am & 2:30pm) If riding a horse bareback into the sea sounds like your cup of tea, Braco Stables offers excellent group rides through sugarcane country that culminate in a bareback ride into the turquoise surf. The ride ends with refreshments at the renovated Braco Great House (clothing required). 4Sleeping & Eating Hotel Rio BuenoHOTEL ( %954-0048; Main St; r/ste from US$110/250; p a W) Converted from a Georgian wharfside warehouse, this is the sort of wonderful old place eccentrics dream up for gawking visitors like yourself. In this case, said eccentric is Mr Joe James, father of former England and Liverpool goalkeeper David James who has turned the hotel into a museum/gallery of his paintings, carvings and masks. It has 20 rooms, most with French doors opening onto balconies that overlook the bay. Lobster Bowl RestaurantSEAFOOD ( %954-0048; Hotel Rio Bueno, Main St; mains US$12-38; h7am-10pm) This spacious restaurant has an old-time nightclub feel and, again, features the artwork of Joe James. As the name suggests, lobster and seafood figure prominently on the menu, and it's all fresh and prepared with love and attention. Getting There & Away Rio Bueno is 60km east of Montego Bay and 20km west of Runaway Bay. The stretch of coastal road from here to Discovery Bay is known as the Queen's Hwy. Grab one of the route taxis that run between Falmouth (J$180) and Discovery Bay (J$150) and alight here. ## Inland: South of Montego Bay The hill country inland of MoBay is speckled with villages clinging to rocky outcrops, narrow roads and large fields of fruit, vegetables and, deeper in the interior, ganja. This is friendly country, where locals aren't as jaded with tourists as their counterparts on the coast. Be on the lookout for brightly painted shacks decorated with off-the-wall bric-a-brac (pottery, feathers, whatever); these are often the homes of witchcraft-practicing bush doctors. The southeast quarter of St James parish culminates in the wild Cockpit Country. #### WORTH A TRIP ### CROYDON IN THE MOUNTAINS PLANTATION Reached via a side-road 1.5km from Catadupa on the edge of Cockpit Country, Croydon in the Mountains Plantation ( %979-8267; www.croydonplantation.com), a 54-hectare working plantation, was the birthplace of national hero and icon of the abolitionist movement, Sam Sharpe. It can feel more like an Indian or Balinese rural community than Jamaica, with its well-groomed, deep green terraces sprouting fields and orchards of coffee, citrus and pineapples. A 'see, hear, touch and taste' tour is offered from 10:30am to 3pm Tuesday, Thursday and Friday (US$75 including lunch and transfers). Advance reservations are required. It's best organized through a Montego Bay tour company who will lay on transport. ### Lethe Lethe, in Greek mythology, was one of the rivers surrounding Hades, and to cross it caused you to lose memories of your previous life; it could happen to you in Lethe, Jamaica, if you spend enough time in this hilltop town. The turnoff for Lethe is 3km south of Reading off the B8 (signs show the way). If you pass the sign for Rocklands Bird Feeding Station, you've gone too far. The graceful stone bridge spanning the Great River was built in 1828, and from its pastoral span you can see the overgrown remains of an old sugar mill rotting on the riverbank. 1Sights & Activities Animal FarmFARM ( %899-0040; www.animalfarmjamaica.com; adult/child US$25/10; htours by arrangement Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun; c) S While disappointingly light on revolutionary pigs corrupted by the acquisition of power (if you haven't read your Orwell, never mind), this Animal Farm does happen to be a great place to take your kids. This pretty little homestead is powered by ecofriendly solar power and pig crap. Skilled guides take guests on bird-watching tours around the grounds (look for the funky-crested 'Rasta fowl'), and on site there's a friendly little petting zoo, donkey stable (rides available), access to swimming in the Great River and lovely views over Cockpit Country. The farm is located just outside the tiny village of Copse, 3km west of Lethe in Hanover Parish. Follow the signs. The final approach is on a rough track. Jamaica Zipline Adventure ToursZIP-LINING ( %366-0124; www.ziplinejamaica.com) A relatively new fixture at the Lethe Estate is the increasingly popular pursuit of zip-lining. Not any old zip-line, mind. This is the longest in the Caribbean. The five lines add up to a total 'flying' distance of more than 1.3km, all of it through a lush jungley landscape. The tours (US$89), run by a US-based company, also incorporate some sampling of local fruits. Mountain Valley RaftingRAFTING ( %956-4920) Headquartered at Lethe Estate, this outfit offers tranquil one-hour river trips on the Great River from Lethe. You're piloted 3km downstream aboard long, narrow bamboo rafts poled by an expert rafter, who waxes poetic about the birds, flora and fauna as you glide along. It's a nice way to forget all your worries. Trips cost US$65 for two passengers (children under 12 half price), including transfers. For an extra US$15 per person you'll get lunch, a plantation tour and a fresh piña colada at the end of the excursion. If you show up under your own steam, you'll pay US$50 for the raft trip alone. Getting There & Away By car or taxi, head west out of Montego Bay on the coast road (A1/Howard Cooke Blvd). In Reading (4km west of downtown MoBay) take the B8 (Long Hill Rd) from Reading toward Anchovy; the signed turnoff for Lethe is about 5km inland. If traffic is light, the trip takes around 30 minutes. Route taxis heading towards Savanna-la-Mar and Black River can drop you off by the turnoff, but it's a short, steep hike up to Lethe from there. ### Rocklands Bird Feeding Station Rocklands ( %952-2009; admission US$20; h2-5pm) is a favorite of birders, who have flocked here since 1958 when it was founded by noted ornithologist Lisa Salmon, who tamed and trained over 20 bird species to come and feed from your hand. Over 140 bird species have been recorded here, but the big draw are those little darting gems: hummingbirds, including the deep purple Jamaican mango hummingbird and ever-popular 'doctorbird,' all best seen around 4pm. You can also spot ground doves, orange- and bananaquits, Jamaican woodpeckers (flickers) and orioles. The station is run by Fritz Beckford, a passionate champion of birds who will pour birdseed into your hand or provide you with a sugar-water feeder. Guests sit agog as hummingbirds streak in to hover like tiny helicopters before finally perching on their outstretched fingers. Fritz estimates his feathered friends devour nearly 900kg of seed each year (so much for 'bird-sized' appetites). If you need more avian action, Fritz leads tours from the house into the bush (US$20 per person). To get here from Montego Bay take the B8 (Long Hill Rd) from Reading toward Anchovy; turn left about 200m south of the signed turnoff for Lethe on Rock Pleasant Rd. The road leading to Rocklands is agonizingly steep and narrow in places. Alternatively, you can take a bus or route taxi from Montego Bay bound for Savanna-la-Mar or Black River, but be prepared for a tough 30-minute hike to and from your destination. If a taxi sounds better, be prepared to shell out at least US$75 for the round-trip journey. ### HIKING THE TROY–WINDSOR TRAIL Just over 30 crow-flying kilometers from the roasting sunbathers of Montego Bay glowers a foreboding wilderness that challenges popular images of Jamaica as tame, well-trodden and bereft of backcountry. Cockpit Country is a broad, barely penetrable thicket of dense foliage and intricate karst topography scattered with caves, hollows and conical hills that, metaphorically speaking, resembles an upturned egg carton. In the 1700s, it provided a savage refuge for runaway slaves – the Maroons – who waged an intermittent guerrilla war against the British colonizers. In an unsuccessful attempt to subjugate them, the British built a precarious military road across the Cockpits from Troy to Windsor that wound tortuously around hidden sinkholes and mosquito-infested jungle with paranoid place names like 'The Land of Look Behind' and 'Me No Sen You No Come.' Dicing with danger, many British soldiers disappeared into the Cockpits never to return, victims of ambush or sheer exhaustion. Miraculously, the Troy–Windsor road still exists, though, what remains of the route today consists of a vague, overgrown trail that should not, under any circumstances, be tackled alone. If you mean to hike it, hire a guide with a machete from the Jamaican Caves Organisation ( %397-7488; www.jamaicancaves.org/main.htm) (JCO), form a small group, and ensure that your party has a GPS, plenty of water (a minimum of two liters per person), mosquito repellent, high-energy snacks, and a torch. Additionally, leave your name(s), contact information and estimated time of arrival with a reliable source. The trail measures 15km between the hamlet of Tyre and Windsor (although you can add on an extra 2km at Tyre and 5km at Windsor to walk to the nearest reliable transport sources). As it's rarely walked in its entirety these days, parts of Troy–Windsor can be a bush-whack, making it incredibly easy to get lost (not a good idea seeing as there are no settlements, no surface water and no chance of helicopter rescue). Six hours is the minimum time required, eight hours is average, ten hours isn't uncommon. Start early! Difficulties aside, the hike is one of Jamaica's – nay the Caribbean's – greatest challenges. Tree cover and steep-sided hills block any expansive views, meaning the most interesting aspect of the walk lies in studying the remarkable endemism of the karst ecology. The Cockpit's bloody history, as related by any good guide, is equally fascinating. Look out for the stone walls of the old road which can be seen throughout much of the journey. The trail is easier done south to north starting from Troy. Beware, the mosquitoes are brutal! For a guided hike with the JCO, you'll need a minimum of five people and your own transport. The cost is US$100 per person. ## North Cockpit Country Look at a road map of Jamaica and you'll notice southwest Trelawny parish, inland of Falmouth is...blank. Just a big green eye of tantalizing mystery peeking at you from the tangle of towns, villages and roads that is the rest of Jamaica's face. So, what's that eye? Jamaica's most rugged quarter: a 1295-sq-km limestone plateau known as Cockpit Country, a vast network of eroded limestone studded with thousands of conical hummocks divided by precipitous ravines. 2Activities The Cockpits are laced with mostly uncharted **caves** that are a tempting draw for cavers. This is true adventure travel; guides lead trips into the better-known caverns, but past that, exploring is for experienced and properly outfitted cavers only. There is no rescue organization, and you enter caves at your own risk. The most accessible are Windsor Caves at Windsor. The Jamaican Caves Organisation provides resources for the exploration of Jamaican caves, sinkholes and underground rivers. In 2005 the group completed a project to formally classify and evaluate over 70 caves within Cockpit Country. One of their more popular trips is to the **Peterkin-Rota cave system** near Maldon in St James. This excursion covers 1km with some swimming and spends three to four hours underground. Cost is US$100 per person (minimum US$250). Transport is extra (US$100 depending on location). TTours Cockpit Country Adventure ToursADVENTURE TOURS ( %610-0818; www.stea.net/ccat_main.htm; 3 Grants Office Complex, Albert Town; tours US$55-70) Sponsored by the Southern Trelawny Environmental Agency, local guides are used to lead hikes and cave exploration in the rugged Cockpit Country. Popular trips include the Quashie River and the Quashie Cave, featuring a 'cathedral room' and a nature hike along the semi-abandoned Burnt Hill/Barbecue Bottom Rd between Clark's Town and Albert Town. Sun Venture ToursHIKING ( %in Kingston 960-6685, in Ocho Rios 920-8348; www.sunventuretours.com; 30 Balmoral Ave, Kingston 10) Runs guided hikes and bird-watching trips into the Cockpits for US$85. ### Good Hope Estate Imagine 'Cotswold-on-Cockpit' and you'll get a sense of what this honey-hued Great House and working plantation looks like. The property, 13km south of Falmouth at the western end of Queen of Spains Valley, is set on the northern edge of Cockpit Country, and the views into that checkerboard of deep razor ridges and jungle domes has no rival. The estate was owned by John Tharp (1744–1804), once the richest man in Jamaica, owner of over 40 sq km and 3000 slaves in Trelawny and St James parishes. Built around 1755, the estate still houses a collection of 18th-century Jamaican Georgian cut-stone buildings, including a sugar works and waterwheel. Most Good Hope visits are organized through Chukka who run many of the facilities on the estate. Because Chukka buses in crowds of cruise ship and resort tourists, you'll often find the house tours busy and a little rushed. Tours can include lunch or high tea, plus Chukka also organizes zip-lining (US$99) and river tubing (US$69) on the estate (the Martha Brae River runs through it). Costs include transportation from Montego Bay hotels. David Pinto, an acclaimed ceramicist, operates a pottery studio ( %954-4635) open to the public on the grounds, and pottery workshops are offered – though you'll need to contact the US-based Anderson Ranch Arts Center ( %954-4635, in the USA 970-923-3181; www.andersonranch.org) to attend. The Great House first became a hotel in the early 1900s when an American banker came to Jamaica looking for antiques and happened upon Good Hope. Today the four-bedroom Good Hope Treehouse ( %881-6869; www.goodhopejamaica.com; s/d/tr US$195/270/330; p n a s) is without doubt one of Jamaica's most opulent accommodations, where the architecture places the living space next to nature in a way that would make Frank Lloyd Wright swoon. Bank on high ceilings, gleaming hardwood floors and cut-stone walls hung with rustic Afro-Jamaican art. ### Windsor If you want to drive into Cockpit Country...well, you can't really. But you can get a taste of what's on offer by entering the narrow 5km-long valley southeast of Good Hope Estate. This passage, surrounded by towering cliffs, is most easily accessed from Sherwood at the north end. The paved road dead-ends at Windsor near the head of the valley; from here you can hike across the Cockpits to Troy, but this is as far as you can go into this wild country without hiking. And, to be fair, the natural beauty of the wild Cockpit Country interior is on display here in its truest form. #### WORTH A TRIP ### WINDSOR GREAT HOUSE Built in 1795 by John Tharp, Windsor Great House now serves as a hostelry and scientific research center. The home is architecturally impressive, and you can also spend the night here. How often do you get to (affordably) sleep in a colonial mansion ( %997-3832; www.cockpitcountry.com; one/two/three people US$40/45/50) that happens to be a biological research station? Decked out with several no-frills cut-stone rooms with shared bathroom (US$5 supplement for hot water), the Windsor is a good but very basic deal. Breakfast/lunch/dinner is US$7.50/7.50/15 per person. It is first and foremost a research center, and resident naturalists Mike Schwartz and Susan Koenig occasionally stage four-course 'Meet the Biologist' dinners (US$40, minimum four people); call for a schedule and reservations. What better way of acquainting yourself with the background story on natural Jamaica – whilst enjoying nice food and wine in, oh yes, a mansion. It's not marked by a sign; to find it, take a left at the junction at the end of the paved road. 1Sights Usain Bolt is from Sherwood, the last real settlement before Windsor, and you'll see signs honoring him and his searing speed dotted around. You may also bump into his family. His father, Gideon, often shoots the breeze while playing dominoes in local bars, while his Aunt Lilly, who runs a bar/gift shop, cooks a mean goat curry. Windsor CavesCAVES These caverns may be off the beaten track to most people, but they're a major way-point for some 50,000 bats. Their egress and entrance, a massed cloud of skittering airborne mammalian tooth, fur, flap and claw, is a sight to behold (there's guano galore). Luckily, the caves were donated to the World Wildlife Fund in 1995 with the proviso that they never be developed. The entrance is a 1km hike from the road, ending with a clamber up a narrow rocky path. Beyond the tight entrance you'll pass into a large gallery full of stalactites and a huge chamber with a dramatically arched ceiling; in rainy season you can hear the roar of the Martha Brae River flowing deep underground. You'll need a local guide, they can usually be found at Dango's shop (www.jamaicancaves.org/dango-jamaica) at the end of the road. It's emblazoned with the epithet 'Jah love is a burning flame'; here you'll likely find cave wardens Martell or Franklyn 'Dango' Taylor. One of them will lead the way with a flashlight or bamboo torch to visit Rat Bat Cave and the Royal Flat Chamber. Depending on how deep into the cave you wish to go and the size of your group, figure on around US$40 per person. 4Sleeping & Eating Miss Lilly'sGUESTHOUSE ( %788-1022; www.jamaicancaves.org/lillys-jamaica.htm; Coxheath; r with shared bathroom US$40) In the hamlet of Coxheath, 5km north of Windsor, you'll find this bar, restaurant, guesthouse and Usain Bolt gift shop all rolled into one, run by the welcoming and jovial aunt of Mr Bolt, Miss Lilly. Two simply appointed rooms share a bathroom (cold water only), while Miss Lilly cooks some delicious yams, said to be the source of Usain's extreme speed. This is a nice place to chill and meet locals, including a fair few members of the direct and extended Bolt family, and if you're really lucky, the fast man himself, who tend to congregate here for gossip, dominoes and other social pastimes. Getting There & Away Windsor is reached by traveling the road from Falmouth to Martha Brae, then crossing the bridge to the east and turning right to follow the valley south into the hills. Minibuses and route taxis (around J$120) operate between Falmouth and Sherwood Content. Coxheath is a 10-minute walk from Sherwood (taxis will drop you there if you ask). Windsor is another 5km down the road (walk or cadge a lift in Coxheath). # Negril & West Coast #### Green Island Harbour #### Lucea #### Mayfield Falls #### Little Bay & Around #### Frome #### Roaring River & Blue Hole #### Savanna-la-Mar # Negril & West Coast ### Why Go? If you thought the north and east coasts of Jamaica were relaxed, head west to a land of long beaches and crimson sunsets where the pleasure-seeking resort of Negril shimmers like an independent republic of guilt-free sloth. Aside from producing sugar cane and surreptitiously growing Jamaica's best ganja, Western Jamaica's _raison d'être_ is almost exclusively touristic; elongated Negril and its hotel developments stretch for more than 10 miles along the entire western coast. In the quiet bucolic hinterland little pockets of local life can still be glimpsed in places such as Lucea, a pretty coastal enclave bypassed by tourist traffic, wild and wet Mayfield Falls, and diminutive Little Bay, a non-resort that still feels like Negril circa 1969. Few come to the west with a to-do list, electing instead to enjoy life in the true spirit of the hippies who founded Negril. Join them on a sun-lounger and relax... _mon_. ### When to Go **Apr–Jun** It's not as wet here as the rest of Jamaica, but small thunderstorms do occur. **Jul–Oct** Rooms dip into low-season rates, and short bursts of rain are common. **Nov–Mar** Sunny, clear and dry. Weather-wise, it's the best time to be in town. ### Best Places for Breakfast AJust Natural APablo's Restaurant ACafe Goa ASips & Bites ### Best Water Activities A **Mayfield Falls** ABlue Hole Mineral Spring ANegril Tree House ACliff diving at Rick's Cafe ## Negril & West Coast Highlights 1 Plumbing the grottoes and reefs off Negril for some of the island's best scuba diving 2 Clambering, clawing and occasionally sliding around the slick rocks and white water of Mayfield Falls 3 Watching cliff divers pluck up courage (or lose their nerve) at Rick's Cafe 4 Gazing into the perfect sunsets that set on fire the sugary sand of Seven Mile Beach 5 Reclining in a hammock in a boutique hotel in Negril's West End 6 Disappearing into the country at one of Jamaica's most scenic and atmospheric caves at Roaring River Park 7 Riding a chestnut horse across the hills east of Negril from Rhodes Hall Plantation ## Negril Pop 4200 Head west out of Montego Bay and, when the air becomes thick with ganja smoke and horizontal pursuits start to take precedence over vertical ones, you'll know you've entered the vacation-ville of Negril. Stuck out on the island's western tip and graced with its finest and longest natural beach, Negril was first colonized by hippies in the early 1970s, though it is their more affluent offspring who claim it today. Unsurprisingly, 40 years of development has left its mark – not all of it good. Negril is renowned for its hustlers who push drugs, sex and trinkets on anyone with dollars who moves. But it's not all hassle. A strong local business community, fueled by a noble desire to safeguard Negril's precious ecology, has kept the area from becoming a full-on circus. Consequently Negril remains, by and large, a laid-back place of impromptu reggae concerts and psychedelic sunsets where nobody – save for the manic route taxi drivers – ever seems to be in a hurry. In both geography and character, Negril can be split neatly in two. The erroneously-named Seven Mile Beach (it's a little over four miles long) supports a strip of midrange family-run accommodations plus some larger low-rise all-inclusives at its northern end. Further south, the West End is the original Negril of hippy-era legend. Here precipitous cliffs, up to 50ft high in places, plunge into the azure ocean. Quirkier, more private hotels and restaurants inhabit this jagged coastline. Save for a tiny pre-1970s fishing village, Negril has never supported a major Jamaican settlement. Thus, the nominal 'town' sandwiched between the beach and the West End doesn't really offer much in the way of a genuine Jamaica experience. For full-on local immersion, you'll have to head southeast to Treasure Beach. History Only in 1959 was a road cut to Negril, launching the development of what was then a tiny fishing village. Electricity and telephones came later. The sleepy beachfront village soon became a popular holiday spot for Jamaicans. About the same time, hippies and backpackers from abroad began to appear. They roomed with local families or slept on the beach, partook of ganja and magic mushrooms, and generally gave Negril its laid-back reputation. In 1977 the first major resort – Negril Beach Village (later renamed Hedonism II) – opened its doors to a relatively affluent crowd seeking an uninhibited Club Med–style vacation. By the mid-1980s Negril was in the throes of a full-scale tourism boom that continues today. This let-it-all-hang-out tradition still overflows during the March to April Spring Break when US college kids swarm for wet T-shirt contests, drinking competitions and general party time. Nonetheless, the resort has developed an active and environmentally conscious spirit under the guidance of expat residents, resulting in the creation of the Negril Marine Park within the Negril Environmental Protection Area. The park encompasses the shoreline, mangroves, offshore waters and coral reefs, and is divided into eight recreational zones. Some hotels have taken admirable steps towards implementing green policies, and it is hoped traveler preference for these resorts will lead to a copycatting of environmentally friendly behavior across the beach. Negril Village 2Activities, Courses & Tours 1Stanley's Deep Sea FishingB1 4Sleeping 2Judy House Cottages & RoomsB2 5Eating 3Canoe BarA1 4Hammond's BakeryD1 5Sweet Spice RestaurantF1 6Drinking & Nightlife 6Mi YardB1 7Shopping 7A Fi Wi PlazaD1 1Sights Seven Mile Beach (Long Beach) BEACH (Negril Beach; MAP GOOGLE MAP \)) ) Seven Mile Beach was initially touted on tourism posters as 'seven miles of nothing but you and the sea.' But the once-peaceful place that drew all those blissed-out sensualists in the early 1970s is now only a happy memory. True, topless sunbathers still lie half submerged on lounge chairs in the gentle surf, and the sweet smell of ganja smoke continues to perfume the breeze, but otherwise the beach has changed in nearly every way. Today it's cluttered with restaurants, bars and nightspots and every conceivable water sport on offer. The swaying palms, clear waters and nearby coral reefs mean that the beach is still beautiful to behold – some contend it's the most beautiful in the Caribbean – but if you're looking for solitude, look elsewhere. Bloody Bay BeachBEACH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) A splendid option, with no facilities and few people, save for a few savvy travelers and a smattering of locals enjoying some repose away from the hubbub. There's a jerk shack selling snacks and drinks if you need 'em. Negril – West End 1Sights 1Negril HillsB1 2Negril LighthouseB5 2Activities, Courses & Tours 3Gas Bike RentalA1 Marine Life DiversA2 4Sleeping 4Banana ShoutA4 5Blue Cave CastleA1 6Catcha Falling StarA4 7CavesB5 8Home Sweet HomeA1 9Lighthouse Inn 2B5 10RockhouseA3 11Seastar InnB4 12Tensing PenA3 13XtabiA2 5Eating 143 Dives Jerk CentreA3 15Ciao JamaicaA2 Ivan's Restaurant & BarA4 16Pablo's RestaurantA1 17Rick's CafeA4 Rockhouse Restaurant & BarA3 18Sips & BitesA3 6Drinking & Nightlife 19LTU PubA4 3Entertainment 20Samsara Cliff ResortA2 Negril HillsHILLS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) This range of low-lying hills rises inland of Negril's West End. The raised limestone upland is wild and smothered in brush. Tiny hamlets sprinkle the single road that provides access from Negril: Whitehall Rd leads south from Sheffield Rd to the hamlet of Orange Hill, swings east through the hills via the town of Retirement, and eventually links to the A2 for Savanna-la-Mar. The area is best explored on a bicycle. Long Bay Beach ParkBEACH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; J$150; h9:30am-5pm) Toward the north end of Seven Mile Beach, this beach is more peaceful and far less crowded than the sand further south. Here you'll find more sugary sand and picnic tables, plus changing rooms. But there's also coarse grass here, so it's not quite as picturesque. Negril – Long Bay (North) 1Sights 1Bloody Bay BeachB1 2Kool Runnings Adventure ParkB2 3Long Bay Beach ParkB3 4Seven Mile Beach (Long Beach)B3 2Activities, Courses & Tours Negril CruisesA2 5Sun DiversA2 4Sleeping 6Beaches NegrilB4 7Couples Swept AwayB4 8Hedonism IIA2 9Sandals Negril Beach Resort & SpaB4 10Sunset at the PalmsB1 5Eating 11Cosmo'sB4 7Shopping 12Rutland Point Craft CentreB2 Booby CayISLAND ( GOOGLE MAP ) ) This small coral island, just offshore from Rutland Point, was used as a South Seas setting in the Walt Disney movie _20,000 Leagues Under the Sea._ The island is named for the seabirds – 'boobies' in local parlance – that make their nests here. Water-sports concessionaires can arrange boats for about US$35 round trip. Negril LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; West End Rd; admission free; h9am-sunset) F The gleaming white, 20m-tall Negril Lighthouse, 5km south of Negril Village, illuminates the westernmost point of Jamaica. Erected in 1894 with a prism made in Paris, and originally powered by kerosene, the lighthouse is now solar powered and flashes every two seconds. The superintendent will gladly lead the way up the 103 stairs for a bird's-eye view of the coast. Kool Runnings Adventure ParkAMUSEMENT PARK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-5400; www.koolrunnings.com; Norman Manley Blvd; adult/child US$33/22; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun; c) If you prefer your water fun doled out in a theme park, descend on this 2-hectare collection of 10 different rides, ranging from the 15m drop of the Jamaica Bobsled to the Rio Bueno Lazy River ride. Food is available at three restaurants, and children can be easily distracted at Captain Mikie's Coconut Island. It also offers kayak trips in the Great Morass. Negril – Long Bay (South) 1Sights 1Royal Palm ReserveB5 2Activities, Courses & Tours 2Caribic VacationsA5 JUTA ToursA5 4Sleeping 3Beachcomber Club & SpaB1 4Charela InnB2 5Firefly Beach CottagesB1 6Idle AwhileB2 7KuyabaA4 8MoondanceB1 9Negril Tree HouseB1 10Negril Yoga CentreA5 11Nirvana on the BeachB2 12Rondel VillageB3 13Roots BambooB3 14Travellers Beach ResortA5 15White SandsB2 5Eating Bourbon BeachA4 16Cafe GoaB4 17Kenny's Italian CafeB4 Kuyaba on the BeachA4 Le VendômeB2 18Norma's on the Beach at Sea SplashB1 6Drinking & Nightlife 19Alfred's Ocean PalaceB3 20JungleB3 21Las VegasB4 22Legends Beach ResortB4 23Sunrise ClubB5 3Entertainment Alfred's Ocean PalaceB3 24Bourbon BeachA4 Roots BambooB3 7Shopping Kuyaba Arts & Crafts BoutiqueA4 25Negril Crafts MarketA5 26Times Square PlazaB4 2Activities Boat Trips Several companies offer two- and three-hour excursions. Tours can be booked at most hotels. Most trips include snorkeling and plenty of booze, preferably done in that order. Negril Cruises ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %430-0596; www.negrilcruises.com; Hedonism II; US$30-50) operating out of the Hedonism II, Couples Swept Away and Breezes resorts are perennial favorites. They often stop at Rick's Cafe for cliff diving. Glass-bottom boat rides are a great way to see the fish life and coral if you don't want to get wet. There are several to choose from on Seven Mile Beach, and most trips will cost you around US$35. Cycling The intense traffic along Norman Manley Blvd and West End Rd makes cycling a dicey proposition in town. The best place to ride is along Ocean Dr or in the Negril Hills, southeast of Negril. There are half a dozen bike rental place including Gas Bike Rental ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4835; West End Rd) in the West End. Rates are normally US$15 per day. Diving & Snorkeling Negril has extensive offshore reefs and cliffs with grottoes, shallow reefs perfect for novice divers and mid-depth reefs right off the sands of Seven Mile Beach. Clusters of dwarf tube sponges are a noteworthy feature. The West End offers caves and tunnels; its overhangs are popular for night dives. Hawksbill turtles are still quite common here. Visibility often exceeds 30m and seas are dependably calm. Most dives are in 10m to 23m of water. Several sites will be of interest to prospective divers. **The Throne** is a 15m-wide cave with massive sponges, plentiful soft corals, nurse sharks, octopuses, barracuda and stingrays. **Aweemaway** is a shallow reef area south of the Throne, and has tame stingrays. **Deep Plane** is the remains of a Cessna airplane lying 21m underwater. Corals and sponges have taken up residence in and around the plane, attracting an abundance of fish, and nurse sharks hang out at a nearby overhang. **Sands Club Reef** , sitting in 10m of water, lies offshore from the middle of Seven Mile Beach. From here, a drift dive to **Shark's Reef** leads through tunnels and overhangs with huge sponges and gorgonian corals. Snorkeling is especially good at the southern end of **Seven Mile Beach** and off the **West End**. Expect to pay about US$5 an hour for masks and fins from concession stands on the beach. Most of the scuba-diving providers offer snorkeling tours (about US$25). Most all-inclusive resorts have scuba facilities. Several companies offer PADI certification and introductory 'resort courses,' which are held in swimming pools. Marine Life DiversDIVING ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-3245; www.mldiversnegril.com; Samsara Hotel, West End Rd; 1-/2-tank dives US$42.50/75) English- and German-speaking instructors. Sun DiversDIVING ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4503; www.sundiversnegril.com; Traveller's Beach Resort; 1-/2-tank dives US$50/90) 'Everything Irie' is their motto. Good start! Offer everything from snorkelling to advanced open-water diving courses. Fishing The waters off Negril – teeming with tuna, blue marlin, wahoo and sailfish – provide some excellent action for sport-fishing enthusiasts. Stanley's Deep Sea Fishing ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0667; www.stanleysdeepseafishing.com; Negril Yacht Club; 1/2-day trips for up to 4 people US$500, additional passengers per person US$50) offers custom fishing-trip charters. Three-quarter- and full-day trips are also available. For a more offbeat experience, head out into the briny with a local fisher; ask around by the bridge over the South Negril River, or talk to the fishers near North Negril River. Golf Negril Hills Golf ClubGOLF ( %957-4638; www.negrilhillsgolfclub.com; Sheffield Rd; green fees US$58, club/cart rentals US$18/35, caddies US$14; h7:30am-4pm) An 18-hole par-72 course that borders the Great Morass, about 5km east of Negril. If you plop your ball in the water, forget it – the crocodiles will probably get to it first! Facilities here include a clubhouse, pro shop and restaurant. Horseback Riding Rhodes Hall PlantationHORSE RIDING ( %957-6422; www.rhodesresort.com; 2hr rides incl hotel transfers from US$70) Based 5km north of Negril on the A1 at Green Island, offers rides through banana plantations and up into the hills. Water Sports The waters off Negril are usually mirror calm – ideal for all kinds of water sports. Numerous concessions along the beach rent jet skis (about US$40 for 30 minutes), plus sea kayaks, sailboards and Sunfish sailboats (about US$20 per hour). They also offer waterskiing (US$25 for 30 minutes), glass-bottom boat rides (US$15) and banana-boat rides (US$15). #### LOCAL KNOWLEDGE ### IRIE ON THE BEACH If you're staying in the West End and want to enjoy a pleasant but peaceful activity spot on Seven Mile Beach, you can pay US$10 to use the facilities at the incredibly laid-back Negril Tree House. The hotel has sun-loungers, a pool, a shady lobby, and various water sports are offered (for extra cost), including parasailing, jet-skiing and waterskiing. The beach grill is also great. It's all very Irie (100% pleasing). TTours Several tour operators offer a standard fare of excursions to the Black River Morass and Appleton Rum Estate (about US$85 to US$95) to the east in St Elizabeth parish, Mayfield Falls (US$65 to US$75) and Roaring River (US$60 to US$70). Caribic VacationsSIGHTSEEING TOURS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %953-9895; www.caribicvacations.com; Norman Manley Blvd) Negril's largest operator. Also has tours to the Royal Palm Reserve. Clive's Transport ServiceSIGHTSEEING TOURS ( %956-2615; www.clivestransportservicejamaica.com) Offers reliable, comfortable island-wide tours and airport transfers (US$50 for one to three people) in a nine-passenger minivan. Fill in the online form and Clive will pick you up. JUTA ToursSIGHTSEEING TOURS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-9197; Negril Crafts Market, Norman Manley Blvd) Run by the Jamaica Union of Travelers Association. zFestivals & Events Jamaica BeachfestSPRING BREAK ( hFeb-Apr) Starting in late February and now spanning six weeks to early April is Negril's famous Spring Break celebration, featuring live music and plenty of booze. Negril Music FestivalMUSIC ( %968-9356; hMar) Three-day reggae and calypso festival. Reggae Marathon & Half MarathonMARATHON ( %922-8677; www.reggaemarathon.com; hDec) Both a full and a half marathon, with a musical soundtrack staged on Norman Manley Blvd. 4Sleeping In general, beach properties are more expensive than hotels of equivalent standard in the West End. #### Seven Mile Beach Negril Yoga CentreRESORT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4397; www.negrilyoga.com; Norman Manley Blvd; d US$45-91; a W) A hearkening back to hippie days of yore, these rustic yet atmospheric rooms and cottages surround an open-air, wood-floored, thatched yoga center set in a garden. Options range from a two-story, Thai-style wooden cabin to an adobe farmer's cottage; all are pleasingly if modestly furnished. The staff makes its own yogurt, cheese and sprouts. Naturally, yoga classes are offered (US$10 for guests and US$15 for visitors). Travellers Beach ResortHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-9308; www.travellersresorts.com; Norman Manley Blvd; r US$76-96; p a W s) Although overrun during Spring Break, Travellers is a real bargain the rest of the year. The family-owned resort is a lovely little midrange option, professionally run with clean, comfortable rooms that match the amenities of larger top-end resorts. Roots BambooRESORT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4479; www.rootsbamboo.com; Norman Manley Blvd; camping per person US$12, r US$35, d with shower US$60; a) Firstly, if you want peace and quiet, look elsewhere. On the other hand, if you need a party – well, stick around, _mon_. This complex of cottages, campsites and chalets attracts a mixed crowd of the middle-aged and backpackers who share a pretty similar desire to get crazy on the beach. There are regular reggae concerts and a perpetual party atmosphere. oNegril Tree HouseRESORT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4287; www.negril-treehouse.com; Norman Manley Blvd; r US$160-170; p a s) Tree House feels exactly how Negril ought to feel: relaxing, but not too plush; friendly but never over-zealous; and welcoming and helpful, but in a very Jamaican kind of way. The rooms, set in bright white hexagonal rondavels, have everything you need for a successful sand-between-your-toes kind of holiday. The grill on the beach is to die for. Rondel VillageRESORT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4413; www.rondelvillage.com; Norman Manley Blvd; d US$120-190, 1-/2-bedroom villa US$250-295; a W s) S The Rondel is a charmer. Rooms encased in beautiful white chalets are set off with sharp purple color accents and are surrounded by snaking swimming pools and verdant (largely edible) natural foliage. Eschewing big resort ambitions, it is the epitome of Negrilian calm – relaxed, hassle-free and filled with all the ingredients of a week enjoyed doing absolutely nothing. Service is exemplary. KuyabaHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4318; www.kuyaba.com; Norman Manley Blvd; cottages US$70, r US$97, honeymoon ste US$106) S With considerable style, this tasteful family-run hotel offers six quaint rustic wooden cabins with filigree trim, each done up in bright Caribbean colors. The cottages are nice enough, but the real draws are the deluxe rooms and suite with king-sized bed upstairs in a handsome stone-and-timber house tastefully decorated with terra-cotta floors and modern design touches. White SandsHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4291, in the USA 305-503-9074; www.whitesandsjamaica.com; Norman Manley Blvd; r US$74-120, studio/villa US$138/540; a s) This attractive property offers simple yet elegant one-bedroom octagonal units, and an excellent four-bedroom, four-bathroom villa that sleeps eight people and has its own pool. The latter is the real draw, as a group rental is a total steal. There's also a pleasant, well-maintained garden where you can relax while the resident parrot recites dub poetry. Beachcomber Club & SpaHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4170; www.beachcomberclub.com; Norman Manley Blvd; r US$150-175, 1-bedroom apt US$250-275, 2-bedroom apt US$350-375; p a i) Operating with crisp efficiency, this handsome multi-room hotel has an open-air beachside restaurant, Gambino's, that does great Italian, plus a nightly entertainment schedule, tennis and water sports. Yet for all this, it doesn't feel as corporate as an all-inclusive. All rooms are well furnished in a sort of standard high-midrange-hotel outlay of tans and beiges. Suites and apartments have kitchenettes. Firefly Beach CottagesHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4358; www.jamaicalink.com; Norman Manley Blvd; s US$133, ste & apt US$190-250; a W) Not to be mixed up with the Noel Coward estate, Firefly Negril is a more modest affair where little wooden cabins and a pretty pink house shelter simple non-fancy rooms with an ocean breeze. Out in the communal areas you'll see hammocks slung between sea grapes, a rough-and-ready gym, and washing hung out to dry. It's rustic but real. Charela InnHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4277; www.charela.com; Norman Manley Blvd; s/d/tr US$170/190/240; p a W s) Creating an individual style amid the ubiquitous beach resorts, Charela has the feel of a Spanish hacienda with large comfortable rooms (some with king beds) built around an attractive courtyard embellished with a perfectly round swimming pool. The whole establishment sits on a hassle-free, fern-shrouded slice of Negril beach and is championed for its Jamaican-French fusion restaurant La Vendome. oIdle AwhileHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-9566, in the USA 877-243-5352; www.idleawhile.com; Norman Manley Blvd; r US$230-270, ste US$290-360; p a W) Just what the therapist ordered! Idle Awhile is Negril in a nutshell: simple but stylish 14-room beachside abode where a hearty breakfast, a hammock and a lucid sunset are all you need to make things right in your life. Bonuses come with the aptly named Chill Awhile restaurant and complementary access to the fantastic Couples Swept Away Fitness Complex. MoondanceVILLAS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %312-981-6344, in the USA 800-621-1120; www.moondanceresorts.com; Norman Manley Blvd; villas US$700-1900; p a W s) The ultimate in Long Beach luxury, the Moondance villas put even the best all-inclusives to shame. You have a choice of gorgeous one- to five-bedroom villas – the one-bedroom honeymoon villa is akin to a lovely tropical home, whereas the three-bedroom 'Dream Walk' home looks like a medieval Chinese palace. For US$125 per adult per night you can get 24-hour all-inclusive service. Nirvana on the BeachRESORT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4314, in the USA 716-789-5955; www.nirvananegril.com; Norman Manley Blvd; d cottage US$160-350) The place to stay if you're seeking meditation, and the sort of bohemian ambiance you get when members of the counterculture decide to open up a tasteful boutique hotel. You can pick from one-, two- and three-bedroom cottages, all set in elegantly subdued yet still vibrantly colorful Zen-like tropical gardens. ### NEGRIL'S ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS Although Negril's all-inclusives are low-rise (all buildings must be lower than the tallest palm tree; ie three stories), they are not all low-key. Hedonism II ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-5070; www.hedonismresorts.com; Norman Manley Blvd; all-incl r per person US$620-925; p a W s) is an adult-only resort that was inaugurated in 1982 and soon gained notoriety for its risqué attitude, weekly lingerie parties and sheer tackiness. Prudes beware: nudity rules here (although technically it's optional). The couples theme is treated to a more romantic sheen at Couples Swept Away ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4061; www.couples.com; Norman Manley Blvd; all-incl per person from US$700; p a W s), a pleasure palace of fancy villas and botanical gardens well known locally for its fantastic fitness complex, which non-guests can use for a fee. The Jamaica-founded Sandals hotels has two Negril outposts: Sandals Negril Beach Resort & Spa ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-5216; www.sandals.com; Norman Manley Blvd; all-incl r from $US400, ste US$1000-1250; p a W s), another (yawn) couples' resort popular with honeymooners; and Beaches Negril ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-9270; www.beaches.com; Norman Manley Blvd; 3 nights all-incl d US$2000-3200; p a W s), which loosely resembles a castle and has loads of facilities for kids (families finally get a look in). For something less predictable, try the jungle cabin-style rooms at Sunset at the Palms ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-5350, in USA 877-734-3486; www.sunsetatthepalms.com; Norman Manley Blvd; all-incl d US$1500-2100, ste from US$1700; a W s), an all-inclusive that likes to be eco-conscious. #### West End oJudy House Cottages & RoomsCOTTAGES, HOSTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0671; judyhousenegril.com; Westland Mountain Rd; dm/s US$20/25; W) Offering the seclusion of the Negril of yore, this lush tropical garden on a hill above the West End guards two self-contained cottages with kitchens (US$75 to US$85) and five additional rooms (three singles and a couple of dorms all with shared bathroom) aimed at backpackers on a budget. The luxury here isn't in the gilded bath-taps, it's in the unscripted extras. The English owner Sue is a mine of candid info on Jamaica, the honesty bar and shared kitchen encourage friendly discourse, and the hammocks in the garden are....zzzzzz. Heaven for backpackers and anyone else who wants to have fun on a budget. Seastar InnHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0553; www.seastarinn.com; Seastar Rd; s/d incl breakfast US$79-99; p a s) This peaceful modern place is run by a charming Canadian-Jamaican couple. Pretty tiled rooms offset by tastefully frilly interior decor characterize the interior; outside the inn is fuzzed over with fecund trees and lush grounds. Hammocks are strung out over verandas, which is a bit of an issue, as you may never leave them. Cell phones are provided for guests. Lighthouse Inn 2GUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4052; www.lighthouseinn2.com; West End Rd; studios US$70-80, cottages US$95-140) A small, family resort that brings to mind the old-school charms of Negril's heyday, the Lighthouse 2 is the sort of budget place with a gentle, fun vibe that you kind of want to export all over Seven Mile Beach, just to bring the madness there down a bit. Big efforts are made to accommodate guests with a disability. Rooms and apartments are sparse but sweet. oBlue Cave CastleHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4845; www.bluecavecastle.com; West End Rd; s/d US$60/125; a W) Winner of Negril's 'quirky hotel' prize is this mock castle that sits like a crenellated fortification warding off invaders on the cliffs of the West End. Fourteen fit-for-a-king rooms and a private grassy terrace create a less swashbuckling atmosphere inside. Lots of repeat visitors testify to fine, yet discreet service and a blissful ambiance. There's a swimming cave accessed via a slippery staircase. Catcha Falling StarHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0390; www.catchajamaica.com; West End Rd; 1-/2-bedroom cottage incl breakfast from US$110-320; p i W) In inimitable West End style, these pleasant fan-cooled cottages – including several with two bedrooms – sit on the cliffs. Each is named for an astrological sign and the rooms do have the genuine variety of the zodiac; some peek into gardens all afire with tropical flowers, while others lip out onto the blue-on-blue vista of ocean. Breakfast is delivered to your veranda. Home Sweet HomeHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4478, in the USA 800-925-7418; www.homesweethomeresort.com; West End Rd; r US$189, ste US$249-299; a s) A cliffhanger with a dozen rooms plus two suites, all with private balconies and fans. The rooms are, naturally, done up in tropical pastels, but for some reason the execution works much better here than it does in other Negril hotels. It features a cliff-top bar and restaurant, a spa and multi-tiered sundecks overhanging the teal-blue waters. XtabiHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0120; www.xtabi-negril.com; West End Rd; r US$88-136, cottages US$222; p a W s) This chic and casual hotel bills itself as 'the meeting place of the gods.' Its clientele is decidedly human, but the setting is truly divine. You can choose from rooms, simple garden cottages or quaint octagonal seafront bungalows perched atop the cliff. They're pleasingly appointed, if nothing fancy. Jackie's on the ReefHOTEL ( %957-4997, in the USA 718-469-2785; www.jackiesonthereef.com; West End Rd; r or cottage per person US$175; s) This tranquil option is 11km south of the Negril roundabout, just north of the intersection with William Hogg Blvd. It operates as a New Age haven focusing on spiritual renewal. A natural stone 'temple' is divided into four rooms, each with two handmade wooden beds and an outdoor shower and bathroom enclosed within your own private backyard. oRockhouseHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4373; www.rockhousehotel.com; West End Rd; r/studios/villa US$180/220/410; a W s) One of the West End's most beautiful and well-run hotels, with luxury thatched rondavels (African huts) built of pine and stone, plus studio apartments that dramatically cling to the cliffside above a small cove. Decor is basic yet romantic, with net-draped poster beds and strong Caribbean colors. Catwalks lead over the rocks to an open-sided, multilevel dining pavilion (with one of the best restaurants in Negril) overhanging the ocean. CavesBOUTIQUE HOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0269, in the UK 0800-688-76781, in the USA 800-688-7678; www.islandoutpost.com/the_caves/; West End Rd; ste incl meals from US$608, all-incl cottage US$920-1865; p a W s) One of the finest boutique hotels in Jamaica, and one beloved of the Hollywood elite (some of whom are helicoptered in), the Caves offers handcrafted, individually styled wood-and-thatch cottages set in lush gardens above cave-riddled cliffs. If your credit card is up to it, rooms feature exquisite hand-carved furniture, batik fabrics and one-of-a-kind art; many have alfresco showers. Banana ShoutCABINS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0384; www.bananashout.com; West End Rd; 2-/3-/4-person cabins US$200/200/250; p i W) Occupying a particularly choice bit of clifftop turf, these cheerful green and orange cabins are perched over the sea in offbeat and homey seclusion. Tastefully decorated with Jamaican and Haitian art, they're unique and charmingly idiosyncratic, even for the West End. Step outside to a dramatic stairway descending to a sea cave with sundeck and freshwater shower. Tensing PenRESORT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0387; www.tensingpen.com; West End Rd; r incl breakfast US$160-230, cottages US$370-720; a W s) Among the more acclaimed accommodations in Negril is this tranquil, reclusive option with 12 thatched cottages on a hectare of land. Most are 'pillar houses' – an architectural style closely associated with the West End – perched above the coral cliffs and set in natural gardens. All have exquisite bamboo and hardwood details, though otherwise rooms differ markedly in decor. 5Eating Local delicacies (besides hallucinogenic mushroom omelets and ganja muffins) include crab pickled in red peppers. Equally easy to find is pasta, pizza and plenty of good vegetarian (known as I-tal) fare. Many places price in US$, so in those cases we have followed suit. #### Seven Mile Beach Cosmo'sSEAFOOD ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4784; Norman Manley Blvd; mains J$300-1000; h10am-11pm) A tatty hippy outpost that sits like a island of good taste amid an ocean of insipid all-inclusive buffets. Cosmo's, in Negril-speak, is a synonym for 'fantastic seafood.' Eschewing fine-dining for a few rough-hewn beachside tables, the plates of melt-in-your-mouth lobster and curried conch are deliciously spicy. Cafe GoaBREAKFAST, JAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-9519; Norman Manley Blvd; mains US$5-16; h8am-late) Replete with breakfasting locals and a few washed up hippies who look as if they fell asleep in 1973 and have just woken up, Goa is top of the morning for French toast, eggs and pancakes, or – should you be suitably acclimatized to Jamaican tastes – callaloo omelets, and ackee and saltfish. Sundays see a jazz band that draws a mixed bag of locals and visitors. Kenny's Italian CafeITALIAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4032; Norman Manley Blvd; pastas/pizzas US$8-10; h3pm-late; W) A new operator winning the popular vote with this lovely half-indoor, half-outdoor cafe/restaurant, which sticks local fish on Italian pasta, steams up cappuccinos (rare in Jamaica), and has learned how to do a proper pizza. The decor is rustic but refined and the bar is a good place to swap your Red Stripe for a glass of wine. Bourbon BeachJERK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4432; www.bbnegril.com; Norman Manley Blvd; mains J$300-800; hnoon-late) Though it's best known for its live reggae concerts, those in the know swear by Bourbon's jerk chicken. The sauce is thick and paste-like, and well complemented by a Red Stripe as you wait for a show. Norma's on the Beach at Sea SplashJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4041; www.seasplash.com/normas-restaurant; Norman Manley Blvd; mains US$15-32; h7:30am-10:30pm) This Negril branch of Norma Shirley's celebrated Jamaican culinary empire seems to have escaped the hype surrounding her Kingston flagship, but the 'new world Caribbean' food at this stylish beach restaurant is just as adventurous. Expect to find the likes of lobster, Cornish game hen, jerk chicken and pasta, as well as tricolor 'rasta pasta.' Le VendômeFRENCH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4648; Norman Manley Blvd; mains US$30-48; h7:30am-10pm) Jamaican-French fusion means more than jerk croissant. Take your table on the terra-cotta terrace with garden view and choose from French classics like duck _à l'orange_ and escargots Burgundy-style, or regional creations like curried shrimp or red snapper in coconut milk. What sets everything apart is the Gallic attention to final execution and the use of locally grown vegetables and spices. Kuyaba on the BeachFUSION ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4318; www.kuyaba.com; Norman Manley Blvd; mains US$18-30; h7am-11pm) 'Kuyaba' means 'Celebrate!' in the Arawakan language, which is exactly what happens here each evening at sunset as guests tuck into innovative dishes like crab and pumpkin cakes with papaya mustard or coconut conch with a mango chutney. The lunch menu is a bit more laid-back: burgers, kebabs and gourmet sandwiches, plus superb pepper shrimp. #### West End On the West End you'll find restaurants that mainly serve cheap Jamaican fare, although some of the nicer resorts have international fusion. o3 Dives Jerk CentreJERK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0845; West End Rd; quarter-/half-chicken J$350/600; hnoon-midnight) This unimpressive shack, which looks like it'll blow away in the next category one hurricane, serves up what may be the best food in Negril. Let your nose and taste buds be the judge. Feast your eyes on those sizzling lobsters or that smoking jerk and be prepared for a loooong, totally worthwhile, wait. The fresh food is prepared before your eyes! Just NaturalBREAKFAST, JAMAICAN ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0235; Hylton Ave; mains J$400-1500; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun) As quintessentially Jamaican as plastic wrist bands and gated hotel complexes aren't, Just Natural is a jumble of tables, trees and foliage at the southern end of the West End strip that serves up a formidable breakfast of fruit, porridge, smoothies and eggs. It's quite incredible what delicacies emerge from its wooden shack of a kitchen. Top of the morning! Pablo's RestaurantBREAKFAST, JAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %845-5108; West End Rd; mains J$750-1800; h7am-11pm) A friendly fist appears through the kitchen window promptly followed by the words 'Respect, mon.' Return the greeting, take a seat and see what breakfast brings. Pablo's reinforces the view that, in Jamaica, the simpler the restaurant, the better the food and the friendlier the wait staff. Talking of respect – this place has it in spades. Sweet Spice RestaurantJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4621; Sheffield Rd; mains J$250-1200; h8:30am-11pm) This unassuming bright-blue clapboard house is a favorite among several authentic Jamaican restaurants on Sheffield Rd that are frequented by locals. Portions are heaped, prices are inexpensive and the food is true blue Jamaican. The menu includes curried goat and fish, conch steak and pepper steak. No alcohol, but plenty of fruit juices. Miss Brown'sCAFE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-9217; Sheffield Rd; mains US$4-28; h6:30am-midnight) Miss Brown's is one of Negril's most – ahem – famous restaurants, which may seem a bit odd given the menu. It's all just mushroom stuff, right? Mushroom omelets and mushroom tea and mushroom daiquiris.... _They're hallucinogenic._ If you come here, make sure you have a trusted driver to get you back to your hotel (or a few hours to kill sitting around). Hammond's BakeryBAKERY ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4734; Negril Sq; patties J$150; h9am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7:30pm Fri & Sat, to 4pm Sun) If you eat a patty in Negril, chances are it will have originated in Hammond's, a busy bakery with indoor seating that inhabits the small settlement's haggard main strip, aka Sheffield Rd. Donuts and cakes make up a good supporting cast. Canoe BarFUSION ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %878-5893; West End Rd; mains J$450-1400; h7am-10pm) Simple wooden shack. Right on the water. Live steel drum performances. Fresh fish plucked from the nearby ocean. Thoroughly reasonable prices. Big portions. Gently lapping waves. Bloody Mary sunsets. What more do you want? Welcome to Canoe Bar – or should that be paradise? Ciao JamaicaITALIAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4395; www.ciaojamaica.com; West End Rd; pastas US$12-18; h3-10pm) It doesn't matter where you are in the world, it's always good to have a decent Italian to fall back on after seven straight nights of jerk chicken and curried goat have deadened your taste buds. Ciao makes a night off Jamaican cooking feel guilt-free, with fine create-your-own pasta (including jerk!), Naples-worthy thin crust pizzas and fantastic surprise desserts. Ivan's Restaurant & BarJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0390; www.catchajamaica.com; West End Rd; mains US$15-35; h5-11pm) There's West End clifftop romance at Catcha Falling Star hotel's affiliated restaurant. It's one of Negril's most lavish. The food is Caribbean with some creative fusion. The pineapple chicken is good, as is the lobster. Imaginative cocktails provide a good overture and generous desserts make an ideal coda. Sips & BitesJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-0188; West End Rd; mains J$350-1500; h7am-10pm Sun-Fri) This large, welcoming open-air restaurant serves classic Jamaican fare, and it serves it done right: rich, filling and more compellingly seasoned than in many other Jamaican restaurants. The dishes include oxtail, curried goat, brown stew lobster and conch steaks. This is the go-to place for a slap-up ackee and saltfish breakfast. oRockhouse Restaurant & BarFUSION ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4373; www.rockhousehotel.com/eat; West End Rd; mains US$15-30; h7:30am-10pm) Lamplit at night, this pricey yet relaxed cliffside spot leads the pack when it comes to nouvelle Jamaican cuisine in the western parishes. Dine and gush over dishes such as vegetable tempura with lime and ginger, specialty pastas and daily specials like watermelon spare ribs and blackened mahimahi with mango chutney. At the very least, stop by for a sinful bananas Foster. 6Drinking & Nightlife Negril gives Kingston a run for its money when it comes to the after-hours pursuits of cocktails and dancing. Dozens of bars and one big nightclub ensure things throb well into the night. Things really hop during Spring Break; in point of fact, it never really stops. Nonguests can obtain passes (US$25 to US$50) for entry to the discos in the following upscale all-inclusive resorts: Sandals Negril, Hedonism II, Couples Swept Away, and Beaches Negril. Once inside the gates you can booze and party to your heart's content without having to shell out another cent, which is actually a pretty decent deal. The booze starts flowing each evening along Seven Mile Beach in time to toast the setting sun, when many bars offer happy-hour incentives to lure you in. In the West End, bars are lively in the early evening before petering out as the beach bars take over. #### Seven Mile Beach Alfred's Ocean PalaceBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Norman Manley Blvd) Busiest bar on the Long Beach on some nights. Live music three nights a week. Legends Beach ResortBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Norman Manley Blvd) Corny music, cheesy vibes, good times. Las VegasBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Norman Manley Blvd; hMon, Thu & Sat) Formally known as Risky Business, this place goes all out during Spring Break. Covers sometimes budge into the expensive US$12 to US$15 range. Sound-system parties rock the beachside. Sunrise ClubBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.sunriseclub.com; Norman Manley Blvd) At the hotel of that name, has a cool bar if you want to escape the beach mayhem. JungleCLUB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Norman Manley Blvd; admission US$5-10; h10pm-4am Thu-Sat) The only bona fide nightclub outside the all-inclusives, Jungle is not the most urbane place, with its tacky decor, but the DJs _definitely_ know what they're doing; during the high season guest talent from Miami and New York regularly takes command of the turntables. The best nights are Thursday and Saturday. There's not much action before midnight. #### DON'T MISS ### RICK'S CAFE Say what you like about Rick's tourist masses, this bar/restaurant-cum-entertainment venue is an essential pilgrimage. Be sure to arrive before 4pm when the unofficial diving 'show' kicks off. Daredevil locals and the odd brave tourist jump or dive with varying degrees of skill off the adjacent 35ft cliffs into the azure Caribbean, while cocktail-sipping crowds applaud and tanned Adonises lounge by the swimming pool. It's quite a scene. When the sun sets, a middling reggae band take to the stage to support the equally middling food (nachos, pasta, and international dishes mainly). The best part's over. Rick's Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; West End Rd; mains US$20-30; hnoon-9pm) first took root in 1974 and was the first nominal drinking hole in the legendary hippie nirvana that was '70s Negril. Over the past 40 years two terrifying hurricanes have swept Rick's – quite literally – off the cliff. Its current incarnation, with plenty of stone re-enforcement, was built after Hurricane Ivan in 2004. It has been voted one of the top ten bars in the world by – ahem – _Caribbean Travel & Life Magazine_. #### West End LTU PubBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; West End Rd; h8am-11pm) A friendly and comfortable cliff-top haunt centered on a small yet lively tiki bar, LTU is the perfect place to strike up a conversation at sunset or to enjoy a Bloody Mary before noon. Mi YardBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; West End Rd; h24hr) Popular with locals, this place draws a late-night crowd into the wee hours, when you can swig shots of white rum and slap down dominoes with the Rastas. 3Entertainment Negril's reggae concerts are legendary, with live performances every night in peak season, when there's sure to be some big talent in town. Several venues offer weekly jams, with a rotation system so they all get a piece of the action. The really big-name acts usually perform at Samsara Cliff Resort ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4395; www.negrilhotels.com; West End Rd). You will also find sound-system jams where the DJs ('selectors') play shatteringly loud music – usually dancehall with some Euro-disco – on speakers the size of railroad boxcars. The most popular jams are in the Negril Hills, near Little Bay. Most bars start the night playing reggae oldies (ie Bob Marley) early in the evening and bust out the dancehall later. Information about upcoming events is posted on streetside poles. Covers are usually US$5 to US$10. Some venues stage free reggae concerts. Bourbon BeachLIVE MUSIC ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4405; Norman Manley Blvd; hTue, Fri & Sun) The best spot for live reggae on Seven Mile Beach, Bourbon Beach occasionally hosts big-name acts. Alfred's Ocean PalaceLIVE MUSIC ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4669; Norman Manley Blvd; hTue, Fri & Sun) This Negril institution is one of the oldest beach bars. Shows begin around 10pm and continue deep into the night. Roots BambooLIVE MUSIC ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4479; Norman Manley Blvd; hWed & Sun) With a rotating roster of musicians anchored by a rock-solid 'riddim' section, the house Hurricane Band shows tourists a thing or two about roots music here each Wednesday. On selected nights big dancehall shows rock the beach. 7Shopping Locals hawk carvings, woven caps, hammocks, jewelry, macramé bikinis, T-shirts and crafts on the beach and along West End Rd. Competition is fierce. Haggling is part of the fun. Don't be hustled into a purchase you don't want. Various shacks line Seven Mile Beach (and really, you can't walk without tripping on one) selling beach essentials like towels, lighters, sunscreen and bug spray. Times Square PlazaSHOPPING CENTER ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.timessquarenegril.com; Norman Manley Blvd; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Posh shopping center complete with duty-free shops such as Tajmahal's, and Cigar World (selling Cuban cigars) where you can wander unmolested. No haggling here though. A Fi Wi PlazaCRAFTS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; West End Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Probably the best crafts market around. Kuyaba Arts & Crafts BoutiqueCRAFTS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Norman Manley Blvd; h9am-5pm) At the Kuyaba hotel, with a nice craft selection and Caribbean art and assorted Africana. Negril Crafts MarketCRAFTS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.negrilcraftmarket.com; Norman Manley Blvd; hdawn-dusk) Just north of Plaza de Negril. Brave the hustlers and haggle hard. Rutland Point Craft CentreCRAFTS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Norman Manley Blvd; h9am-5pm) Next to the aerodrome. Sells some OK wood carvings and all the usual trinkets, plus some snacks. Prepare for lots of sales banter. Bargain hard. ### GREAT MORASS This virtually impenetrable 3km-wide swamp of mangroves stretches 16km from the South Negril River to Orange Bay. The swamp is the island's second-largest freshwater wetland system and forms a refuge for endangered waterfowl. American crocodiles still cling to life here and are occasionally seen at the mouth of the Orange River. The Great Morass acts like a giant sponge, filtering the waters flowing down to the ocean from the hills east of Negril, and is a source of much-needed fresh water. Drainage channels cut into the swamp have lowered the water levels, and sewage and other pollutants have seeped into the region's shallow water table, making their way to sea where they have poisoned the coral reefs and depleted fish stocks. The easiest way to get a sense of the Great Morass is at the Royal Palm Reserve ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-3763; www.jpat-jm.net; adult/child US$10/5; h9am-6pm). Wooden boardwalks make a 1.5km loop around the reserve. Three distinct swamp forest types are present – royal palm forest, buttonwood forest and bull thatch forest. They're all home to butterflies galore as well as doctorbirds, herons, egrets, endangered black parakeets, Jamaican woodpeckers and countless other birds. Two observation towers provide views over the tangled mangroves. If driving, take Sheffield Rd east of the roundabout for 10 minutes and turn left after the golf course. Otherwise, local tour operators run trips to the reserve. To explore the Great Morass outside the reserve, negotiate with villagers who have boats moored along the South Negril River just northeast of Negril Village. It costs approximately US$45 for two hours. At the time of research, the reserve was officially closed. This is not uncommon, so check ahead. Nonetheless, it is still sometimes possible to get a guided tour with one of the staff who remain onsite. Information Dangers & Annoyances Do not walk between Seven Mile Beach and the West End at night. Tourists have been, and continue to be, mugged walking through this area. It's best to avoid dark patches of beach; the locals in Negril, police and civilian, are good about patrolling these areas, but sometimes a mugger slips through. At night you should definitely take taxis. Hustlers stalk Negril like nowhere else in Jamaica. You can expect to be endlessly offered everything from drugs to the hustlers themselves. Usually – but not always – you can shake them off with a firm 'no,' but Negril hustlers can be pretty in your face, and some will try to cop an attitude with you if they think it will intimidate you into giving them some money. Tourist police now patrol the beach but, by law, all Jamaican beaches must permit public access so the hustlers are free to roam, like it or not. Although ganja is smoked in plain view in Negril, undercover police agents have arrested many visitors throughout the years. Prostitution is an established part of the local scene and short-term holiday liaisons are a staple. Female visitors should expect to hear a constant litany of well-honed lines enticing you to sample some 'Jamaican steel.' Emergency Police StationPOLICE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4268; Sheffield Rd) Internet Resources NegrilTOURIST INFORMATION (www.negril.com) Commercial site with numerous listings. Negril JamaicaTOURIST INFORMATION (www.negriljamaica.com) Operated by the Negril Resort Association. Negril Jamaica VideosTOURIST INFORMATION (www.negril-jamaica-videos.com) A good clearing house of local information. Medical Services The nearest hospitals are in Savanna-la-Mar and Lucea, and neither of those is very nice. Negril Health CentreMEDICAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4926; Sheffield Rd; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri) Government-operated center that offers basic non-emergency services. Negril PharmacyPHARMACY ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4076; Plaza de Negril; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Money Banks are open 9am to 2pm Monday to Thursday and 9am to 4pm Friday; 24-hour ATMs are on the north side of Plaza de Negril. While many hotels offer currency exchange, you'll get better rates at banks or a private enterprise. Avoid the black market currency-exchange touts that hang out around Negril Sq, or go there with a local. National Commercial BankBANK (NCB; GOOGLE MAP ) ; West End Rd) ScotiabankBANK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4236; Negril Sq) Northwest of Plaza de Negril; offers currency exchange and ATMs. Post Post OfficePOST OFFICE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; West End Rd; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Between A Fi Wi Plaza and King's Plaza. Tourist Information Jamaica Tourist BoardTOURIST INFORMATION ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %9314, 957-4803; Norman Manley Blvd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) At Times Square Plaza, it's less an information center and more a tour booking agency. Negril Chamber of CommerceTOURIST INFORMATION (NCC; GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.negrilchamberofcommerce.com; West End Rd; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Publishes an annual _Negril Guide._ You can pick it up at hotels or at the NCC office west of the post office. Getting There & Away Negril Aerodrome, at Bloody Bay about 11km north of Negril Village, is served by the domestic charter company TimAir ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-2516; www.timair.net), an 'air taxi' service offering on-demand charter flights for small groups going to Montego Bay, Ocho Rios, Port Antonio and Kingston. Dozens of minibuses and route taxis run between Negril and Montego Bay. The 1½-hour journey costs between J$350 and J$500, and you will likely need to change vehicles in Lucea. Minibuses and route taxis also leave for Negril from Donald Sangster International Airport in Montego Bay (the price is negotiable, but expect to pay about US$10 to US$15). Buses depart from the transportation center ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Sheffield Rd), 1km east of the Negril Sq roundabout. The handy and comfortable Knutsford Express ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %971-1822; www.knutsfordexpress.com; Norman Manley Blvd) has two daily buses to Kingston (J$2700) that also stop in Montego Bay (J$1400), Falmouth (J$1700), and Ocho Rios (J$2200). It stops opposite the Times Square Plaza on Norman Manley Blvd. A licensed taxi between Montego Bay and Negril will cost about US$80-100. In MoBay, call the Jamaica Union of Travelers Association (JUTA; %979-0778). Getting Around Negril stretches along more than 16km of shoreline, and it can be a withering walk. At some stage you'll likely need transportation. Upscale resorts at the north end of Seven Mile Beach have shuttles to the village, and several hotels on the West End run shuttles to the beach. Fortunately minibuses and route taxis cruise Norman Manley Blvd and West End Rd all the time. You can flag them down anywhere. The fare between any two points should never be more than J$130 (they'll always take you as far as Negril Sq from either the West End or Long Beach). Local car-rental companies include Vernon's Car Rentals ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4354, 957-4522; Norman Manley Blvd). High season rates start at around US$43per day. More than a dozen places along Norman Manley Blvd and West End Rd rent motorcycles (US$40 to US$50 per day), scooters (US$25 to US$35) and bicycles (US$10 to US$15). For bicycle rentals, try Wright's Bike Rental ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4908; Norman Manley Blvd). Dependable Bike Rental ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-4354; Norman Manley Blvd) also rents scooters. Tourist taxis display a red license plate. Fares are regulated by the government (per 3km about US$4) but few drivers use meters. Negotiate your fare before stepping into the cab. Do not get in a car if it doesn't have red plates and/or its route transfer displayed on the side. Your hotel will call a cab for you, or you can order taxis from JUTA ( %957-9197). There are taxi stands at the Negril Crafts Market and in front of Coral Seas Plaza. ## Negril To Mayfield Falls Northeast from Negril, the A1 expressway leads to Tryall and on to Montego Bay. The only town of note is Lucea and the main draw in the area is Mayfield Falls. ### Green Island Harbour Immediately north of Negril, the A1 swings around a wide expanse of swampland – the Great Morass. After 16km you pass the shores of a deep cove – Green Island Harbour – where pirogues line the thin, gray-sand shore. Minibuses and route taxis going between Negril and Lucea stop in Green Island Harbour. Three miles west of Green Island, Half Moon Beach ( %957-6467; www.halfmoonbeachjamaica.com; admission US$5 cover; h8am-10pm) is a beautiful, hassle-free stretch of sand beloved by locals and families. Hang out here and you get a sense of what originally brought tourists to Negril (speaking of which, there's a disused airstrip nearby that was once used for ganja smuggling – another original draw to the area). It's part of the Negril Marine Park; there are healthy reefs just offshore and no motorized watercraft. Nudism is permitted. Right on the beach are five simple but spacious wooden cabins ( %957-6467; cabins US$65) refurbished in 2013. The adjacent thatched restaurant has a lobster grill and bar and the owners offer boat tours to the tiny islands in the bay. It's a sublime and tranquil spot. Rhodes Hall Plantation ( %957-6883; www.rhodesresort.com), 3km southwest of Green Island Harbour, is a picturesque 220-hectare fruit-and-coconut plantation with several thatched bars and a restaurant backing a small but attractive beach where hot mineral springs bubble up. Follow the beach west and you'll see a stand of mangroves where Jamaican crocodiles sometimes like to sun themselves. Horseback riding is offered (US$70 for two hours). This is lovely countryside, flat and crisscrossed with natural water features, and being on horseback is the perfect way to access it. If you've got some cash to blow, there's a beautiful villa to rent near here: the lovely Cliffhouse ( %in the USA 896-956-6076; www.cliffhousejamaica.com; Cousin's Cove; per week US$4000; p a W s). Plenty of jerk stalls line the roadside at Green Island Harbour. #### WORTH A TRIP ### BLENHEIM This tiny hamlet, 6km inland of Davis Cove, is important as the birthplace of national hero Alexander Bustamante, the island's first prime minister. 'Busta' is honored with a memorial ceremony each August 6. The rustic three-room wooden shack where Bustamante was born has been reconstructed as the Sir Alexander Bustamante Museum ( %956-3898; admission J$250; h9am-5pm). It includes memorabilia telling of the hero's life. It has public toilets and a picnic area to the rear. ### Lucea Pop 7500 The halfway point between Negril and Montego Bay, 'Lucy' is a pretty harbor ringed by hills on three sides, small enough for visitors to walk everywhere and charming enough to grab your attention for more than a quick blow-through. The once-bustling port abounds in old limestone-and-timber structures in 'Caribbean vernacular' style, with gingerbread wood trim, clapboard frontages and wide verandas. The oldest dates to the mid-1700s, and although there is a general air of dishevelment, this is a well-preserved historic town. That said Lucea is atmospheric enough to have made an appearance in several films, including _Cool Runnings_ and _Wide Sargasso Sea._ The Hanover Historical Society ( %956-2584; Watson Taylor Dr; h2-4pm Sat or by appointment) is active in the town's preservation. 1Sights Sir Alexander Bustamante SquareHISTORIC SITE Bustamante Square is centered on a small fountain fronting the handsome courthouse. Note the vintage 1932 fire engine beside the courthouse. The town's restored courthouse ( %956-2280; Watson Taylor Dr) has limestone balustrades and a clapboard upper story topped by a clock tower supported by Corinthian columns. The clock was sent to Lucea in 1817 by mistake – it was actually intended for the Caribbean island of St Lucia. It has supposedly worked without a hitch ever since. On the east side of the square is **Cleveland Stanhope market** , which bustles on Saturdays. Hanover Parish ChurchCHURCH (Watson Taylor Dr) Although architecturally uninspired, this church – established in 1725 – has several interesting monuments, one being a section of the walled cemetery that recalls the days when Lucea had a vibrant Jewish community. ᠎The walk north here from Bustamante Square curls past some of Lucea's finest historical houses, many in a state of near decrepitude, and deposits you atop the headland with a fine view east over Lucea Harbour. You'll find the church at the hillcrest. Hanover MuseumMUSEUM ( %956-2584; Watson Taylor Dr; admission J$150; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) A side road that begins 200m west of Hanover Parish Church leads to the Hanover Museum, a tiny affair housed in an old police barracks. Exhibits include prisoners' stocks, a wooden bathtub and a miscellany of pots, lead weights and measures, but the poor place is pretty run-down, and thieves have stolen artifacts in the past. HeadlandLANDMARK On the headland beyond the church is **Rusea High School** , a venerable Georgian-style red-brick building constructed in 1843 as an army barracks. The overgrown remains of **Fort Charlotte** overlook the channel a short distance beyond Rusea High School. It's named after Queen Charlotte, wife of King George III of England. The octagonal fortress still boasts cannons in its embrasures. 4Sleeping & Eating There are a few bare bones options in town, but they're poorly advertised. Most people press on to Negril or MoBay. Global Villa HotelHOTEL ( %956-2916; www.globalvillahotel.com; Hwy A1; r J$3800-4700; a W) Eight kilometers west of Lucea on the A1, Global Villa is a pretty collection of rooms in a modern house with louvered windows and tiled floors. Tourist buses tend to stop here for drinks and the toilet, but the small restaurant serves good hearty Jamaican fare. Chilli's Cocktail BarJAMAICAN (Mosely Drive; J$400-700; hnoon-10pm) There's no pampering for tourists' tastes in Lucea, so pull up a chair with the locals at Chilli's and pray that peppered steak and snapper are on the day's menu. Information Lucea HospitalHOSPITAL ( %956-2233/2733; Fort Charlette Dr) On the headland behind Hanover Parish Church, with an emergency department. Police StationPOLICE ( %956-2222; Watson Taylor Dr) In Sir Alexander Bustamante Square. ScotiabankBANK ( %956-2553; Church St; h8:30am-2:30pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) Faces the roundabout in the center of town. Getting There & Away Buses, minibuses and route taxis arrive at and depart Lucea from the open ground opposite the market. Lucea is a midway terminus for public vehicles traveling between Montego Bay and Negril, and you may need to change vehicles here. A bus between Lucea and MoBay or Negril costs about J$250. A minibus or route taxi costs about J$300 to J$350. ### Mayfield Falls Jamaica specializes in paradisiacal waterfall experiences, but, save perhaps for Reach Falls in Portland parish, nowhere matches Mayfield Falls for wild, crowd-free natural beauty. The key is that Mayfield is rarely included in the standard tour operator itinerary that buses in people from Montego Bay and Negril. As a result there's little frenzy here and few, if any, hustlers. Since Mayfield's falls are less ferocious than West Jamaica's other big waterfall, YS Falls, you can climb into the river and scramble upstream for an hour without getting out of the water. Highlights of this bracing escapade include a high-diving pool, an underwater swim-through tunnel, a 'kissing stone' and a churning whirlpool known as the 'washing machine.' The land on either side of the river is actually owned by two different families meaning you have a choice of operators. House-a-Dread (Glenbrook; h9am-5pm) or the so-called Original Mayfield Falls ( %792-2074; www.mayfieldfalls.com; Glenbrook; h9am-5pm). Both offer the same prices and facilities, though House-a-Dread's excursion starts lower down the river and is thus longer. Entry to the falls is US$15 per adult and US$10 per child, and essential wet shoes can be rented for US$6. The guides – who are usually fantastic – earn money from your tips (10-20% depending on service). Lockers, food and toilets/changing are all available onsite. From the A1, take the road inland from Moskito Cove via Cascade. The route is signed but it's quite complex and there are several turnoffs; you should ask your way to be sure. You can also reach Mayfield Falls from Tryall or Hopewell via Pondside, or by turning north at Savanna-la-Mar and taking the Banbury or Amity Cross routes (about 24km) along a road that is deplorably potholed. ## Negril To Savanna-La-Mar Tourism has been slow to develop along the southern shore of Westmoreland, a parish dependent on the sugar industry, with gritty Savanna-la-Mar the only town of any import. Roads fan out from Savanna-la-Mar through the Westmoreland Plains. This flat, mountain-rimmed area, planted almost entirely in sugarcane, is drained by the Cabarita River, which feeds swamplands at its lower reaches. The fishing is good, and a few crocodiles may still live in more secluded swampy areas, alongside an endemic fish – the 'God-a-me' – that can live out of water in moist, shady spots. The river is navigable by small boat for 19km. In the wetlands you can spot rice paddies, originally planted by Indian workers shipped here to work on the sugar plantations. ### Little Bay & Around Southeast of Retirement, a badly eroded side road loops down to **Homers Cove** (locals call it 'Brighton Beach') and, immediately east, Little Bay, with handsome beaches and peaceful bathing. Little Bay is imbued with the kind of laid-back feel that pervaded Negril before the onset of commercialization. It's a great place to commune with Rastas and other Jamaicans who live by a carefree axiom in ramshackle homes, dependent on fishing and their entrepreneurial wits. The area is popular for reggae and dancehall sound systems that lure the local crowd from miles around. Between Negril and Little Bay you'll first pass the town of **Orange Hill** , (in)famous around the island as a major marijuana cultivation and distribution center, although you'd never guess it just looking around. Ask around for directions to Jurassic Park ( h10am-sunset); no, there's not real velociraptors here (damn!), but you will find giant cast-iron sculptures of dinosaurs courtesy of local character Daniel Woolcock. Just look for the giant iron pterodactyl and you've found the entrance. If you continue on to Little Bay, you may find the seaside **house** (now a private residence) where Bob Marley used to live with one of his girlfriends. The home stands next to imaginatively dubbed **Bob Marley's Spring** , where the legend used to bathe. A mangrove swamp extends east of Little Bay, beyond which lies the fishing community of **Hope Wharf** and a long sliver of white sand called **Lost Beach**. Crocodiles and marine turtles can be found here. Dolphins and humpback whales frequent the waters offshore year-round. Blue Hole Mineral SpringSINKHOLE ( %860-8805; US$10; h9am-11pm) This sinkhole has long been a feature on the landscape, but its presentation as an attraction is relatively new with some elements ongoing – a hotel was being built at time of research. If you lacked the courage to leap off the cliffs at Rick's Cafe (no shame in that!) then you can have a second try here. The sinkhole requires a 30ft+ plunge into refreshing mineral waters below, or you can descend via a ladder. Acrobatic local divers provide plenty of entertainment. There's an adjacent swimming pool and bar/restaurant which cooks jerk – tasty enough to persuade you to linger for an hour or three. Little Bay CabinsCABINS ( %588-6700; www.littlebaycabins.com; Beach Rd; s/d US$109/129; i) If you want total detachment from Negril-esque clamor, track down the coast to this haven of blissfulness where you can convene with the local Rastas rather than Rob and Carol from Rotherham. It's right on the water in Little Bay. ### Frome Frome lies at the heart of Jamaica's foremost sugar estate, in the center of a rich alluvial plain. The area is dominated by the Frome sugar-processing factory ( %955-6080; B9), on the B9 north of Savanna-la-Mar and south of the town of Grange Hill. Constructed in 1938, the factory became the setting for a violent nationwide labor dispute. During the Depression of the 1930s many small factories were bought out by the West Indies Sugar Company. Unemployed workers from all over the island converged here seeking work. Although workers were promised a dollar a day, the men who were hired received only 15 cents a day and women only 10 cents. Workers went on strike for higher pay, passions ran high and violence erupted. When the crowds rioted and set fire to the cane fields, the police responded by firing into the crowd, killing four people. The whole island exploded in violent clashes. The situation was defused when labor activist Alexander Bustamante mediated the dispute. His efforts gave rise to the island's first mass labor unions and the first organized political party, under his leadership. A **monument** at a crossroads north of the factory gates reads: 'To Labour leader Alexander Bustamante and the Workers for their courageous fight in 1938. On behalf of the Working People of Jamaica.' Free tours of the factory can be arranged by reservation. Frome also boasts two attractive churches, including **St Barnabas Anglican Church** , in a vaguely Teutonic style. ### Roaring River & Blue Hole If you're looking for a brief escape from the fun-in-the-sun ethos of Negril, an hour or two in and around the caves at Roaring River Park (cave tours adult/child US$15/8; h8am-5pm) could do the trick, although it's not a patch on Mayfield Falls. This natural beauty spot contains mineral waters that gush up from the ground in a meadow full of water hyacinths and water lilies. A stone aqueduct takes off some of the water, which runs turquoise-jade. Steps lead up a cliff face gashed by the mouth of a subterranean passage lit by electric lanterns (you can enter the caves only with guides from the cooperative). Inside, a path with handrails leads down to chambers full of stalagmites and stalactites. Take your swimming gear to sit in the mineral spring that percolates up inside the cave, or in the 'bottomless' blue hole outside it. Harmless fruit bats roost in the recesses. As you arrive an official guide will meet you to show the way to the ticket office, and then around the gardens and cave; ignore the touts who congregate outside posing as tour guides. The lane then continues beyond Roaring River for about 1km uphill through the village to Blue Hole Gardens ( %955-8823; www.jamaicaescapes.com; admission US$10), a beautiful sinkhole that is surrounded by a landscaped garden full of ginger torch and heliconia. The sinkhole is privately owned and overpriced, but you'll get the chance to take a cool dip with the fish in the turquoise waters. The source of the Roaring River is about 400m further up the road, where the water foams up from beneath a matting of foliage. This is also a quintessential counterculture lifestyle retreat that offers two very rustic but charming cottages ( %401-5312; www.jamaicaescapes.com/villas/bluehole/bluehole.html; cottages US$40-80) set in gardens at the edge of the tumbling brook. The place acquired a new owner in 2013 and the cottages were in the process of being refurbished so prices may change. If you're hungry, pop into Lovers Café (mains US$3-8; v), which is known for its veggie feast, I-tal dishes, fruit juices and herbal teas. Roaring River is at Shrewsbury Estate, about 2km north of the main crossroads in Petersfield (8km northeast of Savanna-la-Mar). You can catch a bus in Savanna-la-Mar as far as Petersfield (J$150, about once every hour). From there it's a hot walk or rough ride down the potholed road through the cane fields. Route taxis and coasters also run to Roaring River from Petersfield (J$100). Organized tours to Roaring River are offered by companies in Negril (around US$75). ### Savanna-la-Mar Pop 20,000 Although Savanna-la-Mar is the largest town in western Jamaica and the capital of Westmoreland parish, 'Sav,' as it is locally known, offers few attractions save for its local shopping opportunities, which are strung out along the 2km-long main drag, Great George Street. It often gets a bad rap for its high crime rate, so stick close to this road if you're staying in town and don't walk around at all after dark. Several petrol stations are also found on Great George Street; this is where route taxis and minibuses congregate to take passengers on to Negril, Montego Bay, or further east to Black River. 1Sights Savanna-la-Mar FortNOTABLE BUILDING (Great George St) The English colonialists never completed the Savanna-la-Mar Fort at the foot of Great George St. Parts of it collapsed into the swamps within a few years of being built, and these discarded guts now form a small cove where locals swim. A bustling daily market, specializing in vegetables and local fish, has been built into the grounds. CourthouseNOTABLE BUILDING (cnr Great George & Rose Sts) The most interesting building is the Sav courthouse, built in 1925, where there's a fountain made of cast iron, inscribed with the words, 'Keep the pavements dry.' There doesn't seem to be any deeper meaning to this highly literal commandment. St George's Parish ChurchCHURCH (cnr Great George & Murray Sts) This church, opposite the courthouse, was built in 1905. It's uninspired, but has a stately **pipe organ** that was dedicated in 1914. Manning's SchoolNOTABLE BUILDING (Seaton St) At the north end of town by the roundabout known as Hendon Circle is the very handsome Manning's School, built in 1738 and named after Westmoreland planter Thomas Manning. 5Sleeping & Eating You can buy fresh fish and produce from the market at the base of Great George St, but the sanitary conditions aren't great; otherwise, cheap jerk and food stalls cluster in the center of Sav. Lochiel Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( %955-9344; Sheffield Rd; r US$35) On the A2, 2km east of town, is an old stone-and-timber, two-story great house that looks delightful from the outside. Inside it's a bit run-down, though some of the rooms are appealing. All have utilitarian furniture and hot water in private bathrooms. This place is decent as a last resort, but otherwise move along to Bluefields (17km to southeast) or Negril (29km to west). Tan Tan Top Tasty PastryBAKERY (7 Great George St; patties J$120-150) Come here for Jamaica's default snack – a patti, plus a few sweeter treats. It's a quick skip from the transportation center. Information Police stationPOLICE ( %918-1865; Great George St) Near the courthouse. Post officePOST OFFICE ( %955-9295; Great George St; h8am-5pm) Savanna-la-Mar HospitalHOSPITAL ( %955-2133; Barracks Rd; hemergency service 24hr) On the A2 on the northeast side of town. ScotiabankBANK ( %955-2601; Great George St; h8:30am-2:30pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) Getting There & Away Buses, minibuses and route taxis operate frequently along the A2/B8 between Montego Bay (J$350, 1½ to two hours) and Negril (J$300, 45 minutes). Knutsford Express ( %971-1822; ww.knutsfordexpress.com; Dunbar Mall) runs comfortable coaches once daily to Montego Bay (J$1200) and twice daily to Kingston (J$2400) via Mandeville (J$1600). # South Coast & Central Highlands #### Bluefields & Belmont #### Black River #### Middle Quarters #### Santa Cruz #### Maggotty #### Appleton Rum Estate #### YS Falls #### Accompong #### Troy & Around #### Christiana #### Mandeville #### Shooter's Hill #### Mile Gully & Around #### Treasure Beach #### Lover's Leap #### Alligator Pond # South Coast & Central Highlands ### Why Go? Cut off from the clamorous north coast by the natural bulwark of Cockpit Country and protected from resort development by local communities that seriously value their near-virgin beaches, southwest Jamaica feels like a clandestine paradise for the trickle of off-island visitors who make it this far. Its biggest present is Treasure Beach, an antidote to pretty much everything else in Jamaica you will have encountered so far with its cow-filled pastures, crime-free country lanes, and semi-deserted scimitars of sand. Rural St Elizabeth parish is often coined the breadbasket of Jamaica for the many crops that grow there, but fertile fields quickly give way to swamp around Black River and mountains around the lightly touristed, highland town of Mandeville. The region's most notable sights – the Black River, YS Falls and the Appleton Rum Estate – are usually visited by day-trippers on organized excursions from resorts in Negril and Montego Bay. ### When to Go **Jan** The Accompong Maroon Festival, held January 6, is one of the most compelling celebrations of Afro-Caribbean culture in Jamaica. **Dec–Apr** It's high season for a reason: no hurricanes, less chance of rain and calmer seas. **Jun–Aug** Summer on the south coast is also not a bad time to visit; rates go down and the region stays relatively dry compared to the rest of the island. ### Best Places to Eat ALittle Ochie AJack Sprat Café ASmurf's Cafe AJake's Country Cuisine ### Best Places for a Red Stripe AFrenchman's Reef APelican Bar ALittle Ochie AManchester Arms Pub ## Bluefields to Black River ## South Coast & Central Highlands Highlights 1 Watching the fisherfolk mending their nets on otherwise deserted Calabash Bay Beach. 2 Enjoying a game of local cricket at Treasure Beach Sports Park. 3 Exploring Jamaica's longest river, the Black River, by small watercraft and seeing crocodiles in their mangrove ecosystem. 4 Heeding the call of the ancient _abeng_ (goat horn) at the well-preserved Maroon village of Accompong. 5 Soaring over the majestic YS Falls on a zip-line. 6 Delving into the island's largest rum distillery, Appleton Rum Estate, before sampling its wares. 7 Watching your fish being caught, brought ashore and cooked at Jamaica's finest seafood restaurant, Little Ochie, in Alligator Pond. ### Bluefields & Belmont Bluefields in southeastern Westmoreland parish is appropriately named: look out the door here and it's either big light-blue skies beyond the mountains or sea-blue harbors lapping the rocky beach. In 1519 this was Oristan, one of the first Spanish settlements in Jamaica; Bluefields Bay provided safe anchorage for Spanish explorers, British naval squadrons and pirates. In 1670, long before he became a tacky rum mascot, infamous buccaneer Henry Morgan set out from Bluefields Bay to sack Panama City. Today Bluefields (population 2560) and adjacent Belmont (population 2880) are populated by a quiet collection of fishers, tourists, escape artists, regular artists, expats and returning Jamaicans (the latter two particularly attracted by a small housing construction boom in the hills). 1Sights Peter Tosh MonumentMONUMENT (Hwy A2; admission J$1000; hvary) Many monuments make a political statement, and the memorial to reggae superstar Peter Tosh, plunked a kilometer south of Bluefields on the beach road in Belmont, is no exception. And the cause here is, as Tosh once sang, to 'legalize it.' You can guess what 'it' is, but if not, just check all the murals, which depict a Rasta man with a huge joint, jumbo marijuana leaves, and, best of all, a red-eyed Lion of Zion on Tosh's actual tomb. Behind the tomb is a garden where they ain't growing oregano. This is a casual place with few visitors, a stark contrast to the tourist maelstrom surrounding fellow Wailer Bob Marley's mausoleum in Nine Miles. It is run by the Tosh family – his nonagenarian mother lived on the property until her death in 2013 – and your money is taken by a caretaker who will give you a brief tour along with commentary on Tosh's political positions ('I'm like a smoke. Dat why we say legalize it.'). In mid-October the annual Peter Tosh Birthday Bash, an informal local affair, features live roots reggae music played deep into the night. Bluefields HouseHISTORIC SITE Philip Gosse was one of the great polymaths of his time: the man who both popularized the aquarium and modified its design, and illustrator of gorgeously detailed renditions of Jamaican birdlife. His old home, naught but a ruin located inland from the Bluefields police station, is worth visiting for historical novelty more than anything – to see where the author of _Illustrations of the Birds of Jamaica_ and _A Naturalist's Sojourn in Jamaica_ once laid his head. There's a lovely breadfruit tree on site, said to be the first on the island. rBeaches Bluefields Beach ParkBEACH (Hwy A2; h8am-sunset) Well signed from the Winston Jones Hwy (A2), this beach is a swathe of pale sand that frames the dark-blue water like a ribbon; a beach as beautiful as it is ignored by foreign tourists (although it's quite popular with locals on weekends). During the early evening and on weekends you'll find a nice collection of food stalls featuring locally caught fresh fish and plenty of Red Stripe. Belmont BeachBEACH There are actually two small Belmont Beaches, but one is too rocky to relax on and the other is a major mooring point for fishing boats. That said, if the day is clear the water will be as well, so you can swim out a little way and do some fine snorkeling or spear fishing. Most accommodations rent the required equipment. TTours Travelers staying in the area can enjoy day trips and excursions to regional attractions including YS Falls, the Black River Great Morass, Ipswich Caves and Alligator Pond. Natural Mystic ToursNATURE TOURS ( %851-3962; www.naturalmystic-jamaica.com) Run by a German expat; leads tours (in English and German) all across the island. Nature RootsNATURE TOURS ( %955-8162, 384-6610; www.natureroots.de) Go with Brian the Bush Doctor out on the sea and into the jungle, or stay at his friendly little cottage. Shafston ToursNATURE TOURS ( %869-9212; www.shafston.com; Shafston Estate Great House, Bluefields) A good choice for outdoor pursuits such as river kayaking (US$50 per person) and hiking. 4Sleeping & Eating For food, you can eat at any of the accommodation places listed. It's also worth pressing on to Scott's Cove for the full-on Jamaican fish and _bammy_ experience. Retro Roots CabinsCABINS, HOUSE ( %876-521-0682; www.retrorootscabins.com; Belmont; cabins s/d US$25/50, mansion per month US$5000 ; p W s) Opposite the ocean in the hamlet of Belmont, Retro Roots is a newly invigorated business with an interesting configuration of rooms: two simple but adequate cabins with front verandas, and a full-blown eight-room mansion with its own pool for groups keen to drop sticks for a month or more (easily done here). A new onsite grill was on the verge of opening at last visit promising seafood and kebabs. Shades CottageHOMESTAY ( %441-1830, 955-8102; www.shadescottage.com; Belmont; r US$30-35; W) Run by the hospitable Rasta Bigga (when you meet him, you'll understand the nickname), at Shades Cottage you'll be staying in a 'yard' – a compound of neighborly houses – arranged around a bar where fresh meals and cold beer can be ordered. The rooms are basic and clean; don't expect the Ritz. The spot attracts younger travelers and long-term expats. Nature RootsHOMESTAY ( %955-8162, 384-6610; www.natureroots.de; Belmont; r US$25-30) Nature Roots, the home base for the tour outfit of the same name, offers chilled-out accommodations in a yard with good vibes, easy access to the beach (it's about 50m away) and a lovely, indolent air. South Sea View Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( %963-5172; www.southseaviewjamaica.com; Whitehouse; r without/with air-con US$70/90; a s) With a bit of imagination you could call South Sea View Greek Island-ish in its aesthetics, all white-walled and open to the pale-blue sky and winds. Rooms are fresh and modern, with fluffy king-size beds, tropical murals and cable TV for those days when you need to veg. It's located 14km southwest of Belmont in the town of Whitehouse. Shafston Estate Great HouseGUESTHOUSE ( %869-9212; www.shafston.com; Bluefields Bay; all-incl s/d US$100/160; p W s) Poised on a hilltop with exquisite coastal views stretching as far as Savanna-la-Mar, this creaky Great House is an 'all-inclusive' that is nothing like the other all-inclusives on the island. In the original manor house there are atmospheric, spacious rooms ranging from basic to modest; a few have bathrooms. For even cheaper digs, there are 12 simple yet charming rooms in a newer block with screened windows and clean, tiled communal unisex showers and bathrooms. Note: this is not a luxury resort; rather, it's a more rustic Jamaican experience. Behold the sunsets. To get here from the A2, take the dirt road opposite Bluefields police station, then it's a precipitous 3km climb over bad roads. oBluefields VillasVILLAS ( %in the USA 1-877-955-8993; www.bluefieldsvillas.com; Hwy A2, Bluefields Bay; per week US$6440-10,828; p a W s) Exquisite is an understatement for these six private villas scattered around the Bluefields Bay waterfront that offer all-inclusive services (chef, cleaners, butlers, etc) fit for Marie Antoinette. All have pools and luxury furnishings, and three of them even have their own tiny private islands. Villa sizes vary; some fit four, the largest caters for 13 people. Throw in unique organized excursions, private nannies, and spectacular service that doesn't miss a single beat and you've got the holiday of a lifetime pretty much guaranteed. 7Shopping Studio BlackCRAFTS, ART ( %459-9918; www.studioblack-jamaica.com; Hwy A2; h9am-5pm) Warning: don't walk past this artistically attired Rasta shack that's been defying hurricanes, dodgy drivers and all else in Belmont since 1977; it's simply too good to miss. Run by amiable local artist, Jah Calo, it's replete with one-of-a-kind art and sculptures immersed in Rastafarian imagery. Calo's painted many murals in the area, including those at the Peter Tosh Memorial. The shop-shack is on the main beach road (A2) running through Belmont. With its colorful decoration, you can't miss it. Getting There & Away The A2 is the only road that runs through Bluefields and Belmont, and buses will drop you off wherever you ask in either town; otherwise they'll likely leave you in Bluefields' 'square,' a centrally located patch of open land with a small general-purpose shop. Buses and minivans run frequently (every hour during the day) up the coastal road (A2) to Savanna-la-Mar (J$200, one hour), and from there to Montego Bay and Negril, but try to go before late afternoon – you don't want to be stuck in Savanna-la-Mar, especially after dark. In the opposite direction (southeast) most buses go through Black River (J$350, 1½ to two hours), from where you can get buses or taxis to Treasure Beach or Mandeville, or travel onwards to May Pen, from where you can find reliable transportation to Kingston. Getting stuck in Black River is fine, for the record. #### WORTH A TRIP ### FONT HILL BEACH PARK & WILDLIFE SANCTUARY This beach park (adult/child J$350/175; h9am-5pm), situated on almost 13 sq km southeast of Scott's Cove, is owned – weirdly – by the Petroleum Corporation of Jamaica, which, fortunately has not tarnished its natural beauty in the slightest after the company realized that the oil it initially sought offshore didn't exist. Two golden-sand beaches (connected by a trail) are fringed by a reef offering great snorkeling and bathing. Dolphins come into the cove, as do turtles for nesting season. There's a small cafe and bar, changing rooms, picnic booths, volleyball, a boardwalk and a lackluster interpretive center and marina. Horseback rides are also offered. You can only visit the wildlife sanctuary if accompanied by a guide, but it's worth it for the good introduction to the odd marsh-and-scrub coastal ecosystem of southwest Jamaica. There's scrubby acacia, logwood thickets and, closer to the shore, a maze of connected lagoons and swamps with a population of a couple of hundred American crocodiles (made all the more vulnerable after being displaced from other parts of the south coast by large-scale construction projects). The bird-watching is fabulous, highlighted by a flock of bald-pate pigeons as well as assorted black-billed whistling ducks, jacanas, herons and pelicans. ### Black River Pop 4230 The capital of St Elizabeth and the parish's largest town, Black River occupies an interesting median point in terms of tropical energy. A big city this may be for these parts, but a bustling metropolis it most certainly is not. At the same time it's no sleepy backwater either – Black River may be off the beaten path, but there's a buzz here, a colorful, open-air chaos offset by Georgian architecture peeling away in a state of elegant rot and buckets of liquid gold sunlight. The namesake river is a slow-moving slick of moldering tannins patrolled by straight-arrow alligators and boats full of curious tourists. Although most visitors understandably opt to stay in nearby Treasure Beach, a few people do use this town as a base for visiting attractions like YS Falls and the Appleton Rum Estate. The town's Georgian buildings attest to its 19th-century prosperity, when Black River exported local logwood from which Prussian blue dye was extracted for textiles. Locals proudly point out the Waterloo Guest House, which in 1893 became the first house in Jamaica to have electricity installed. The racetrack and spa that attracted the wealthy have sadly not survived the passage of time. Black River 1Sights 1CourthouseA1 2Hendricks BuildingC2 3Invercauld Great House & HotelA1 4Parish Church of St John the EvangelistB1 5Roman Catholic ChurchA1 6Town HallA1 7Waterloo Guest HouseA1 2Activities, Courses & Tours 8Irie SafarisC1 9J Charles Swaby's Black River SafariC2 10St Elizabeth River SafariC1 4Sleeping 11Spring Garden HotelC2 Waterloo Guest HouseA1 5Eating 12Cloggy's on the BeachD3 13Produce MarketB1 Waterloo Guest HouseA1 1Sights Black River Heritage BuildingsHISTORICAL BUILDINGS Foremost among the historic structures worth checking out is the yellow-brick Parish Church of St John the Evangelist ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; cnr Main & North Sts), built in 1837. From the outside it's a bright, mustard-colored supermarket. The wind-pocked interior is graced by wooden porticoes and a stately balcony, while the graves around the back cemetery date from the 17th century. Two blocks west are the porticoed courthouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) and the town hall ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ), with lofty pillars, and beyond that a simple Roman Catholic church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ), a rare denomination in Jamaica. Two of the most impressive buildings are both hotels. The 1894 Invercauld Great House & Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) and the Waterloo Guest House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ), both west on Main St, are splendid examples of the Jamaican vernacular style; with their shady wooden verandas and gingerbread trim they look like the sort of place where you should don a safari hat and demand a sherry in an imperious voice. High StreetSTREET Although it's as frenetic and chaotic as any other High St in Jamaica, Black River's High St (note, High St and Main St are used interchangeably here) is also lined with colonnaded Georgian timber houses, all musty and fading away in the intense sunshine, which gives it a prettily entropic quality. At the east end is the Hendricks Building ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 2 High St), dating from 1813, a fine example of period British-Caribbean architecture. Immediately east is an old **iron bridge** , a good spot for watching American crocodiles waiting for tidbits thrown by tourists from the riverside berths. Trawlers lie at anchor immediately south of the bridge, from where you can watch fish being hauled ashore onto the wharfs. rBeaches Heavy SandsBEACH Long stretches of dark sand still undiscovered by most international tourists. Just don't swim near the river mouth – crocodiles like to congregate here! You'll be fine in the sea, but beware the tides as there will likely be no one around. Abutting it is **Parottee Beach**. TTours A river trip is the main reason many tourists come to Black River and it has become a popular day-out from the all-inclusives. Loads of boats cluster by the old warehouse on the east bank of the river, waiting to chug people into the vine-laden interior of the Great Morass. You'll be escorted along water that resembles a mossy oil slick, and while nothing can be guaranteed when speaking of spotting wildlife, there's a good chance you'll see white marsh cranes and herons skimming the banks like pterodactyls, sword-beaked, fish-spearing anhinga and, of course, crocodiles. Thanks to all the visitors these reptiles are tame around people now, and they're pretty small to boot. Many operators let people go swimming in the river with them, which they insist is a safe endeavor. If you do choose to swim, do so at your own risk. J Charles Swaby's Black River Safari ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-2513, 965-2086; tour US$19; htours 9am, 11am, 12:30pm, 2pm & 3:30pm), on the east side of the river just north of the bridge, offers 60- to 75-minute journeys aboard the _Safari Queen_ and is the oldest operator. Similar tours and prices are offered by St Elizabeth River Safari ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-2229, 965-2374; htours 9am, 11am, 2pm & 3:30pm), behind the Hendricks Building, and Irie Safaris ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-2211; Riverside Dr; htours every 90 min 9am-4.30pm), wharfside from a jetty just southeast of the bus station (Irie can also arrange kayaking trips in the area, which come highly recommended). At the time of writing tours ran around US$20 to US$30; thanks to the price of petrol these rates can swing up and down at short notice. For a less regimented (and more authentic) experience, you can easily hire a guide to take you upriver by canoe or boat for about US$50 to US$60 round-trip. Ask near the bridge in town or anywhere in Treasure Beach. If you're continuing on to Treasure Beach, you can hire a boat there for a round-trip tour (US$75) that includes a stop at the Pelican Bar and a journey up the Black River. Midday tours are best for spotting crocodiles; early and later tours are better for birding. Take a hat and some mosquito repellent. 4Sleeping Spring Garden HotelHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-965-2361; 14 Crane Rd; s/d J$4000/7000; p a W) This recently refurbished and renamed bay-side hotel, just a short stroll from Black River's main drag, could provide a good excuse to layover in town en route for Treasure Beach. Rooms are simple but freshly painted and, most importantly, clean. The ocean is stone-lobbing distance and there are a periodically open bar and restaurant on site. Waterloo Guest HouseHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-2278; 44 High St; r US$40-50; p a s) The Waterloo looks like an elegantly ruined throwback of British-Caribbean architecture, though if you're staying here you won't have so much appreciation for the withered wood and broken fixtures (hard to believe it was the first home in Jamaica with electricity). The rooms scream 'gimme a refurb.' Indeed, the ones in the main building were closed altogether at last research. And, be careful when you dive into that swimming pool – it may not have any water in it. For non-fussy people on a budget only. Idlers' Rest Beach HotelHOTEL ( %965-9000; www.idlersrest.com; r from US$100; p a W) A worthwhile non-Treasure Beach option a little way out of town, Idlers' Rest redefines 'Irie.' Owned by a friendly lawyer, the hotel is a tasteful boutique decorated in a comfy mix of modern chic, Caribbean color and pan-African art. Rooms are cooled by gentle sea breezes and you can wander the local beach while gazing at dolphins frolicking on the waves. 5Eating There's a supermarket in the Hendricks Building, and another one 100m north. You can buy fruit, vegetables and meats at the open-air produce market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Market St; hsunrise-sunset). Waterloo Guest HouseJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 44 High St; mains J$300-900; h7am-10pm) The Waterloo's on-site restaurant is as decrepit as its guesthouse although there's a raffish quality to the colonial bar that looks like it could have sprung from a Graham Greene novel. OK for a quick drink or a too-simple-to-get-wrong grilled cheese sandwich. Cloggy's on the BeachSEAFOOD ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %634-2424; www.cloggysonthebeach.webs.com; 22 Crane Rd; mains J$600-2000; hnoon-10pm) This beachside joint is your best culinary bet in Black River; it's an all-round pleaser with a relaxed vibe, great bar ambience and excellent chow. It occasionally throws well-attended beach sound-system parties; ask the bartender for the lowdown. Try a cup of conch soup for a revelation, and follow that up with some gorgeous fresh lobster. Information Black River HospitalHOSPITAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-2212/2224; 45 Main St) A kilometer west of town. Police StationPOLICE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-2232; North St) Post OfficePOST OFFICE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-2250; h8am-5pm) Immediately west of the police station. ScotiabankBANK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-2251; 6 High St; h8:30am-2:30pm Mon-Thu, 8:30am-4pm Fri) St Bess PharmacyPHARMACY ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %634-4526; 1a Brigade St; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Sat) Getting There & Away Black River is a nexus for route taxis that shoot off in all directions, including Santa Cruz (J$180), Whitehouse (J$100) and Treasure Beach (J$250). Change at Whitehouse for Bluefields and Belmont. Minibuses go to Montego Bay (J$250 to J$300) and Savanna-la-Mar (J$200). The transportation center is behind the market, just west of the river. Taxis arrive and depart from a lot at the junction of Main and North Sts, though Treasure Beach taxis have a separate departure point close to the corner of High and Market Sts. #### LOCAL KNOWLEDGE ### FISH & BAMMY About 14km southeast of Belmont, just past the town of Whitehouse, the A2 sweeps around a deep little inlet known as **Scott's Cove** , which marks the border of Westmoreland and St Elizabeth parishes. Anyone with taste buds in western Jamaica will tell you that this is the best place on the island to buy fried snapper and _bammy_ – a pancake of fried cassava – with onions and peppers. It shouldn't cost more than J$500. Dozens of scruffy food and beer stalls line the roadside which also abuts the shore. You'll be inundated with offers, but it's a friendly kind of hustling. Most stalls shut after dark. ## South Cockpit Country St Elizabeth is the driest parish in Jamaica thanks in part to the rugged Cockpit Country, which joins St Elizabeth to Trelawny parish in a rocky fist-bump and blocks the south coast from the rains whipping off the ocean. South Cockpit Country is as beautiful, rugged and remote as its northern counterpart, and perhaps a better area from which to access the unique, if fading, culture of the Maroons. Few roads penetrate the hills, where the sparse population is mostly involved in subsistence farming and, deeper in the valleys, ganja cultivation. As in North Cockpit Country, we warn you away from trying to discover marijuana plots; if you come upon one uninvited, it could cost you your life. Between the Nassau Mountains and the Cockpit Country is the wide Siloah Valley, carpeted with sugarcane. From the hamlet of Troy you can plunge into the depths of Cockpit Country on foot and come out on the northern side. ### Middle Quarters This small village on the A2, 13km north of Black River, is a tiny vortex of good eats. First, it's renowned for women higglers (street vendors) who stand at the roadside selling delicious (spicy) pepper shrimp – pronounced 'swimp' in these parts – cooked at the roadside grills. The shrimp are caught in traps made in centuries-old West African tradition from split bamboo. Around J$300 will buy a spicy bagful. The women come on strong in the sales pitch, but many of these vendors are related, so don't let guilt direct your purchase. Jog, jump, or do whatever it takes to get hungry again, because now you have to try a Jamaican trucker favorite: Howie's Healthy Eating ( %378-8714; A2 Hwy; mains J$200-500; h24hr), on the A2 at the turnoff for YS Falls. Do you have a great 24-hour diner or greasy spoon in your town? If so, come to Howie's for the same vibe Jamaican-style. The cooking is done in big pots bubbling over wood fires. Choose from a number of soups, stews, fried fish, curried goat, of course, and huge helpings of 'swimp'; the fried chicken is a feast – even with the trucks roaring past. If you want to shed some of your newly accumulated weight via a quick dip, stop by Bubbling Spring ( %850-1606; A2 Hwy; admission US$15; h8am-6pm), 1.5km south of Middle Quarters on the A2. Cool, slightly carbonated spring water is fed into long, shallow pools. If you're driving yourself around, this can be a lovely break from the road, but it may be a bit underwhelming if you're coming here by public transportation. Simple Jamaican fare is served at nearby stalls. #### DON'T MISS ### BAMBOO AVENUE The soothing sound of a million leaves rustling in the wind is one of the quiet pleasures of this photogenic archway of towering bamboo. The 4km-long stretch of the A2 between Middle Quarters and Lacovia is shaded by dense 100-year-old stands of _Bambusa vulgaris,_ the largest species of bamboo in Jamaica. Cool and pretty, Bamboo Avenue is the perfect place to stop for a coconut jelly, accompanied by a bag of pepper shrimp brought along from Middle Quarters. In Lacovia, ask locals for help finding the **twin tombs** (near the Texaco) where, according to local lore, two young victims of a 1738 duel are buried. One of the dead is identified: Thomas Jordan Spencer, a descendant of the Duke of Marlborough and distant ancestor of Lady Diana Spencer and Winston Churchill. Infrequent minibuses connect Lacovia to Black River and Santa Cruz, but it makes more sense to drive here; it makes for a nice add-on to a trip to Mandeville. ### Santa Cruz Pop 7000 Santa Cruz is a bustling market town and the most important commercial center in southwest Jamaica. Black River may be the capital of St Elizabeth parish, but Santa Cruz is arguably the more important settlement thanks to its economic clout. Unfortunately it's less attractive. Back in the day Santa Cruz was a market center for horses and mules bred locally for the British army, and a livestock market is still held on Saturday, but by and large this is a bauxite town that has grown too fast. While there's nothing here to keep the average tourist busy for long, it's a good place to stop for a bite to eat or money, and it's a major transportation hub as well. Hind's Restaurant & Bakery ( %966-2234; Santa Cruz Plaza, Main St; mains US$1-6; h7:30am-5pm Mon-Thu, 7:30am-7pm Fri & Sat) sells baked goods and is a clean, simple place to enjoy Jamaican fare such as brown stew and curried goat. Paradise Patties (Shop 30, Beadles Plaza, Main St) sells veggie and beef patties for cheap (under J$100). Fruity's (Shop 27, Philip's Plaza, Main St) serves delicious ice-cream cones. There's a Scotiabank ( %966-2230; 77 Main St; h8:30am-2:30pm Mon-Thu, 8:30am-4pm Fri) on the main drag. Santa Cruz is a main stop for buses, minibuses and route taxis going between Kingston, Mandeville and Black River. They arrive and depart from the transportation center on the A2, at the east end of Santa Cruz. Knutsford Express (www.knutsfordexpress.com) coaches also stop here on their way between Mandeville (J$800, 45 minutes) and Savanna-la-Mar (J$1000, 1¼ hours). ### Maggotty Pop 1400 Maggotty is a forgettable town with an unforgettable name, laid out on a bend of the Black River at the western end of the Siloah Valley. It thinks of itself as a sleepy regional center, but it can also be a viable base for exploring YS Falls and the Appleton Rum Estate. Plus, Maggotty is the closest base for trips into the **Black River Gorge** , a rocky rent in the jungle speckled with 28 pretty waterfalls and intermittent natural swimming pools. The name, by the way, can be attributed to the missionary Rev John Hutch, who named Maggotty after his English birthplace. 1Sights Apple Valley ParkPARK ( %487-4521, 894-5947; www.applevalleypark.com; adult/child J$450/350; h10am-5pm daily by reservation only) Owned by Patrick Lee and his lovely Chinese-Jamaican family, Apple Valley Park is a little triumph of green sensibility and community tourism. The park grounds consist of an 18th-century home, a manicured lake, an artificial pool and further on, a forest reserve that stretches past the waterfalls and swimming holes of the Black River Gorge. You can kayak and paddleboat in the park itself or hike into the woods or fish or order a meal – it's all relaxing. The prettiness of the place is all the more remarkable when one considers this was once the scarred remains of a bauxite mine; Patrick Lee helped bring the area back to nature after hiring locals and subsequently boosting the surrounding economy, and for this reason we give some of the wear and tear evident on the grounds a pass. The 169-hectare family nature park is only open by appointment, so call ahead. The owners also operate a tractor-pulled jitney from the old train station in Maggotty. 4Sleeping & Eating Apple Valley GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE (per person camping/dm/d US$5/15/20) Patrick and Lucille Lee, the Chinese-Jamaican couple who run Apple Valley Park, keep bunks and private rooms in the 18th-century red-roofed Great House south of town. The house was undergoing refurbishment at the time of research. Ask about availability at Apple Valley Park. Happy Times RestaurantJAMAICAN ( %963-9807; Shakespeare Plaza; mains J$300-500; hMon-Sat) This place serves simple, well-prepared meals, including curried goat, snapper, curried chicken and brown-stew pork. Getting There & Away Public vehicles infrequently arrive and depart from opposite Shakespeare Plaza at the north end of Maggotty, connecting to Mandeville (J$200) and Black River (J$180). ### Appleton Rum Estate You can smell the yeasty odor of molasses wafting from the Appleton Sugar Estate and Rum Factory ( %963-9215; www.appletonrumtour.com; factory tour & rum tasting US$25; h9am-3:30pm Mon-Sat, closed public holidays) well before you reach it, 1km northeast of Maggotty in the middle of the Siloah Valley. This is the largest distillery in Jamaica and the oldest: the factory has been blending Appleton rums since 1749. The 45-minute tour of the factory explains how molasses is extracted from sugarcane, then fermented, distilled and aged to produce the Caribbean's own rocket fuel, which you can taste in the John Wray Tavern. Around 17 varieties – including the lethal Overproof – are available for sampling. Unsurprisingly, the well-stocked gift shop does brisk business with visitors whose inhibitions have understandably been lowered over the course of the tour (and by the way, you get a complimentary bottle of the stuff at the end of the tour, so don't get too soused!). Every tour company in Jamaica can get you onto one of the busloads of tourists that truck to and from (the 'from' part is pretty fun after 17 varieties of rum) the Appleton estate. Otherwise, it's easiest to get here from Maggotty; the factory is 1km east, and taxis will take you there and back for around J$500. ### YS Falls Jamaica prides itself on her waterfalls, but for our J$ the title of most beautiful cascades in the country is a dead heat between Reach Falls and the south-coast stunner, YS – a series of eight cascades ( %997-6360; www.ysfalls.com; adult/child US$17/7.50; h9:30am-3:30pm Tue-Sun, closed public holidays) hemmed in by limestone cliffs, surrounded by lush jungle and brimming with an energy that is positively Edenic. If you wander around here early in the morning, before the falls are swarming with tourists, there is, well...a natural mysticism in the air. The waters of YS ( _why-ess;_ the falls take their name from the original landowners, ranchers John Yates and Richard Scott) look like a whitewater necklace laid over deep green, falling 36m from top to bottom, separated by cool pools just screaming to be swum in. If you're so inclined, you can **tube** down a bamboo-shaded stretch of river through five mini-rapids for US$6; depending on the flow of the water, this should take about 30 minutes. If you're feeling more daring, whiz down a canopy **zip-line** (adult/child US$30/20) or just take a dip in the local spring-fed pool. A tractor-drawn jitney takes visitors to the cascades, where you'll find picnic grounds, a tree house and a rope-swing over the pools. Be careful: the eddies are strong, especially after rains when the falls are torrential. A stone staircase and pathway follow the cascades upriver. There are no lockers, however, so you'll need to keep an eye on your stuff while you bathe. Admission includes a guide. There's a gift store and a cheap restaurant on site. Almost every tour operator in Jamaica (and many hotels) offer trips to YS Falls, but if you want to get here ahead of the crowds, drive yourself (or charter your own taxi) and arrive right when the grounds open. The YS Falls entrance is just north of the junction of the B6 toward Maggotty. From the A2 (a much smoother road if you're driving) the turnoff is 1.5km east of Middle Quarters; from here you'll head 5.5km north to the falls. On the B6, buses travel via YS Falls from Shakespeare Plaza in Maggotty. On the A2, buses, minibuses and route taxis will drop you at the junction to YS Falls, from where you can walk or catch an Ipswich-bound route taxi and ask to be dropped at the falls (J$80 to J$100). ### Accompong Pop 3000 / Elev 448m The Maroons and their legacy make up a significant chapter in the Jamaican national narrative, yet the truth of the matter is there are very few actual Maroon communities remaining on the island. Accompong, named for the brother of Maroon hero Cudjoe and embedded in the outer edges of southwestern Cockpit Country, is the sole remaining outpost in western Jamaica. This unique cultural lineage alone makes the town worth a visit, but it is also a good base for exploring the region of Cockpit Country, also known as 'Me No Sen, You No Come,' a landscape that, by dint of its ruggedness, is as responsible for Maroon independence as Maroon battle prowess. The village still enjoys aspects of quasi-autonomy and is headed by a colonel elected by secret ballot for a period of five years. The colonel appoints and oversees a council, and it is considered proper etiquette to introduce yourself upon visiting (you should be directed to him upon entering the village, but if not, just ask around). 1Sights & Activities If you arrive in Accompong under your own steam you'll be quickly greeted by locals offering to give you a tour of the town; the going rate at time of writing was US$20, which pays for a full tour of everything mentioned here, except the Peace Caves. Try asking for Tackie ( %864-4462), a good local guide who also lets out his house as a homestay. Accompong is centered on the tiny Parade Ground, where the Presbyterian church looks over a small **monument** that honors Cudjoe, the Maroon leader (the statue next to it is that of Leonard Parkinson, another Maroon freedom fighter). Opposite the monument, the **Accompong Community Centre & Museum** is a veritable peek into the Afro-Caribbean world's cultural attic: _goombay_ drums, a musket, a sword, baskets and other artifacts from the Maroon era stacked alongside Ashanti art and Taíno tools. Other sections of the tour take in a Maroon burial ground, a small herbal garden, **Bickle Village** , studded with traditional thatch-roofed homes, and the **Kindah Tree** , a stately, sacred mango tree where the elders of the community congregate. There are several tours offered into the beautiful surrounding countryside, including a one-hour trek down to the **Peace Caves** (about US$60), where Cudjoe signed the 1739 peace treaty with the British. TTours There are many hotels in Treasure Beach and Mandeville, and a few in Montego Bay and Negril, that can hook you up with tours into Accompong. Original Trails of the MaroonsADVENTURE TOURS ( %475-3046; www.jamaicanmaroons.com) This is an excellent ecotourism collaboration between an expat and the local Accompong community. It offers cultural tours of Accompong, and arranges tours with local guides into the rugged interior of the Cockpit Country. Sun Venture ToursCULTURAL TOURS ( %960-6685, 408-6973; www.sunventuretours.com; 30 Balmoral Ave, Kingston 10) An excellent Kingston-based tour operator that specializes in cultural and environmental tours of off-the-beaten-path Jamaica. #### DON'T MISS ### ACCOMPONG MAROON FESTIVAL In many ways, the best sight in Accompong is...well, Accompong. The village is more than politically autonomous; despite the fact the native Coromantee language has vanished and knowledge of local rituals is fading among the young, Accompong still feels _different_ from the rest of Jamaica. Locals will proudly tell you there is no crime, police or taxes in Accompong, and while they may be guilty of some exaggeration, the town certainly feels tranquil compared to settlements of similar size in other parts of Jamaica. Although it is anything but calm, perhaps the best time to get a sense of Accompong's uniqueness is during the traditional Accompong Maroon Festival, held each January 6. Because the festival is held in early January, a lot of Jamaicans call it 'Maroon New Year,' but it actually marks the signing of the 1739 peace treaty between Cudjoe of the Maroons and the British Empire. The provisions of that agreement guaranteed the Maroons significant personal freedom and 15,000 acres out of which to make their own community; a clerical error reduced said land to 1500 acres, still a source of some tension in these parts. The Maroon Festival celebrates Accompong's nominal independence and is a riot of traditional dancing, drumming, mento bands and local tonics and herbs. Between the storytellers, chanting, rhythmic drumbeats and appeals to pre-Christian spirits, this is an intense invocation of Afro-Caribbean heritage – perhaps the most raw meshing of Old Africa and the New World many people will see in their lifetime (outside of certain parts of Brazil). The festival culminates in a traditional march to the revered Kindah Tree, where a specially prepared Maroon dish of unsalted and unseasoned pork is consumed with yams; afterwards (because after all, this is still Jamaica) an all-night sound-system party rocks into the wee hours. You'll never see Jamaica so quiet as Accompong sometime around 11am on January 7. 4Sleeping & Eating Most residents of Accompong will offer to put you up for around US$20 to US$30; meals will be a 'likkle' bit extra. Mystic Pass VillasGUESTHOUSE ( %770-3680; r US$50-60; p) These simple yet well-kept, thatch-roofed, wooden-floored cottages constitute some surprisingly luxurious digs considering how far off the beaten path Accompong is. There are refreshing outdoor hot showers, worth the price of the stay alone if you've been out hiking. Maroon RestaurantJAMAICAN (mains J$300-400; h9am-9pm) One of two excellent restaurants in the Accompong community which will enthusiastically rustle up traditional food with ingredients plucked from within a 100m radius of your plate. 7Shopping Local artisans still make _goombay_ drums here. These – along with an array of medicinal herbs, calabash shells and _abengs_ (goat horns) – are for sale in the tiny red-and-green craft shop as you enter town. The hand-carved _goombay_ drum is box-shaped and covered with goatskin, and makes a wonderfully deep and resonant racket. A large one will set you back at least US$150. Getting There & Away Route taxis run from Shakespeare Plaza in Maggotty (J$200), where you'll have to change for Black River. If you're driving, the route from Maggotty is well signed, but the winding road is horribly potholed. All the better to go slow as the views over the crinkled broccoli-colored mountains are spectacular. ### Troy & Around Three kilometers northeast of the tiny settlement of Balaclava the B6 turns southeast for Mandeville; another road (the B10) leads north and climbs to Troy on the border with Trelawny parish. The latter is a spectacular drive as you climb through a series of dramatic gorges, with the road clinging to the sheer face of the Cockpits. Troy, plunked in a valley bottom and surrounded by sugarcane fields, is the southeastern gateway to Cockpit Country. It is also a center for the cultivation of yams, which grow on tall runners spaced throughout the valley. **St Silas Church** , still in use by the locals, is worth a look for its blue-tinted corrugated iron roof. Auchtembeddie, 5km south of Troy, is a choice spot for cavers, who head to **Coffee River Cave** , known for some magnificent rockfalls and a whole lotta bats. The area is totally undeveloped for tourism, but local guides will escort you for a negotiated fee. A dirt road leads 3km north from Troy to Tyre, a hamlet on the edge of the Cockpits. Beyond Tyre the road fades into a bush-enshrouded trail that leads all the way to Windsor (about 21km). Don't attempt this trek alone, as there are several forks and it is easy to get lost. To hire a guide, contact the Jamaican Caves Organisation (www.jamaicancaves.org). ### Christiana Pop 8430 The harvesting heart of the western highland agricultural yam-basket, Christiana, some 16km north of Mandeville and 900m above sea level, is a pleasant town set in a lovely backdrop of rippling hills and shallow valleys. The area was settled by German farmers during the 18th and 19th centuries, which is a little bit evident in the complexion of some locals and the local Moravian church, located at the northern end of sinuous Main St. During the 19th century, Christiana became a hill-town resort popular with European dignitaries and Kingstonians escaping the heat of the plains. Today Christiana makes a good base for exploring YS Falls and the Appleton Rum Estate. This is a fairly sleepy place – farmers go to bed early and get up around 4am or 5am – which you may find refreshing if you're tired of Jamaica's usual cacophony. That said, if you're here on Thursday when the higglers come to sell their produce, the roads are so thick you can hardly drive through town. It's a sight worth seeing. Around Christiana you'd be forgiven for imagining yourself in the Pyrenees or the Costa Rican highlands. The air is crisp, clouds drift through the vales and pine trees add to the alpine setting. This is an important center for growing Irish potatoes, cacao, yams and coffee, and during picking season you can watch women with baskets moving among the rows, plucking cherry-red coffee berries. 1Sights & Activities Christiana BottomVALLEY The main reason for stopping here is to discover this beautiful riverside valley bottom, located below the town at the base of a shimmering **waterfall**. Two **sinkholes** full of crystal-clear water offer refreshing dips; collectively they're known as the Blue Hole. You can hike from the center of Christiana, though the going at the lower reaches can be muddy and slippery (but pretty, once you start pressing through a tangle of moss and ferns). Take the road that leads east from the National Commercial Bank; it's 3km from here. Take the first left and then the second left and press on through the green; if you get lost, locals are happy to provide directions. Gourie Forest ReserveNATURE RESERVE ( hsunrise-sunset) An unexpected bloom of pine trees, plus mahogany and mahoe, grows atop the flinty heads of the Cockpits 3km northwest of Christiana, near Coleyville. This park is laced with **hiking trails** and is most noteworthy for having one of Jamaica's longest cave systems. Two routes into the **Gourie Caves** have been explored, but this is advanced caving; ask at Hotel Villa Bella for a guide. You'll find magnificent columns, narrow fissures and an icy river with overhead air passages that barely clear 30cm. As such, Gourie should only be attempted in dry weather, as flooding is a distinct possibility. You'll also want to bring warm clothes; the water is seriously cold. To get to the park from Christiana, turn uphill (southwest) at the radio tower immediately south of the junction that leads west for Coleyville and Troy. Immediately take the left at a Y-fork, then right at the next Y-fork and follow the green wire fence. The road isn't in very good condition, but it's doable in a 2WD if you proceed carefully. 4Sleeping & Eating Main St has numerous undistinguished restaurants and pastry shops including the ever-dependable Juici Patties ( %964-2568; Lewis Plaza, Main Street; patties from J$150). Hotel Villa BellaHOTEL ( %964-2243, in the USA 888-790-5264; www.hotelvillabella.com; r US$72-96; p) A charming, cozy country inn perched on a hill at Sedburgh, at the south end of town, this villa is a former grande dame that retains her original mahogany floors (now somewhat squeaky) and Victorian and deco furniture and trappings. The polite service matches the old-school elegance of the furnishings. The rooms don't entirely keep pace with all this grandeur, but they're still lovely, if a little plain. Villa Bella also offers a reasonably priced dining experience – a melange of Jamaican, Japanese and Chinese cuisines. Afternoon tea can sometimes be procured. Getting There & Away Christiana is well-served by route taxis and minibuses from both Kingston and Mandeville (J$120); from Mandeville you can access other major towns in the south coast and central highlands. To get to Montego Bay and Ocho Rios, head north in a route taxi to Albert Town (J$100) and change. ## Mandeville & Around ### Mandeville Pop 48,000 / Elev 628m An antidote to Jamaica's busy, sometimes blemished, coast, Mandeville is a cool inland town located at an altitude of 628m, meaning you can traverse its busy streets without collapsing from heat exhaustion and enjoy a slice of everyday Jamaican life bereft of the iPad wielding, camera-clicking tourists in evidence elsewhere. While the town center remains boisterously Jamaican with uniformed schoolchildren playing cat and mouse with the speeding taxis, Mandeville's salubrious suburbs exhibit a posher, more refined, veneer. Mock Georgian mansions with manicured gardens provide second homes for Kingston entrepreneurs or returning expats who have made their money abroad. Devoid of major sights per se, Mandeville is best enjoyed as a pit stop for people who want to see the island from a different (Jamaican) perspective. Grab a patty from a scruffy shopping mall, be a spectator to an alfresco game of dominoes, or just shoot the breeze with the local taxi drivers/shop assistants/rastas in the busy central square. Welcome to the real Jamaica, mon! History Established only in 1816, Mandeville began life as a haven for colonial planters escaping the heat of the plains. In the 19th century, the city prospered as a holiday retreat for wealthy Kingstonians, and attracted soldiers and British retirees from other colonial quarters. Many early expats established the area as a center for dairy farming and citrus and pimento production. Jamaica's unique seedless citrus fruit, the _ortanique_ , was first produced here in the 1920s and is grown in large quantities. North American bauxite company Alcan opened operations here in 1940 (in 2000 it sold its operations to a Swiss company, Glencore). Relatively high wage levels lured educated Jamaicans, bringing a middle-class savoir faire to the town. Mandeville 1Sights 1Cecil Charlton ParkB4 2Cenotaph (War Memorial)B4 3Mandeville CourthouseB3 RectoryB3 4St Mark's Anglican ChurchB4 4Sleeping 5Golf View HotelA2 6Mandeville HotelB4 5Eating 7A Little Pastry PlaceB1 8Little OchieB3 Manchester Arms Pub & RestaurantB4 9Produce MarketB4 10Star GrillA3 6Drinking & Nightlife 11VineyardB4 7Shopping 12BooklandB1 1Sights Marshall's PenGREAT HOUSE ( %904-5454; Mike Town Rd; admission US$10; hby appointment) One of the most impressive historical sights in the central highlands, Marshall's Pen Great House has a story that manages to encapsulate the sweep of Jamaican history from Taíno times through colonialism to abolition, independence and the modern day. Also, it's a great spot to watch birds. Taíno people once inhabited this property, and archaeological digs still turn up their artifacts. The stone-and-timber Great House itself, built in 1795, dates back to the first British Provost General of Jamaica. Throughout its history the home has been a coffee plantation and cattle-breeding property (hence Marshall's 'Pen'). Today the 120-hectare grounds are owned by Jamaica's leading ornithologist, Ann Haynes-Sutton, an environmental scientist. The exterior of the building, all cut-stone and Spanish windows surrounded by landscaped gardens, is beautiful. The interior is equally arresting, a honeycomb of wood-paneled rooms brimming with antiques, leather-bound books, Taíno artifacts, historical and original artwork and lots of other museum-quality pieces, many from Japan and China (this may be the best collection of Asian art on the island). You can tour the mini-museum by appointment only. Marshall's Pen is splendid for bird-watching: more than 100 species have been recorded here, including 25 of the 27 species endemic to Jamaica. Organized bird-watching trips often stay here. If you would like to visit, phone ahead first. To get to the property, take Oriole Close off Winston Jones Hwy (A2), about 5km northwest of the town center (there's a sign for 'Somerset Quarries' at the junction). Turn left on Nightingale Dr and then, after about 100m, right on Mike Town Rd; the estate entrance – an unmarked stone gateway – is about 400m further on the right. Take insect repellent. Cecil Charlton ParkSQUARE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) This tiny English-style 'green', also known as Mandeville Sq, lends a slight Cotswoldian village feel to the town center (that's assuming Cotswold greens are dominated by dozens of people hailing taxis, selling produce and hawking Digicel scratch cards). On the north side is the Mandeville Courthouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ), the oldest building on the square. Built by slaves in 1817 out of cut limestone, the edifice is fronted by a horseshoe staircase and raised portico supported by Doric columns. The rectory ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ), attached to the courthouse, was completed in 1820 and is the oldest home in town. On the south side is a **produce market** and a cenotaph ( MAP GOOGLE MAP \)) ) commemorating Jamaican dead from the two world wars. St Mark's Anglican Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ), on the south side of Cecil Charlton Park, was established in 1820. There's a lot of Gothic accents, which makes it stand out from other Jamaican churches built around the same period. The building still functions as the parish church for Manchester. Bloomfield Great HouseGREAT HOUSE ( %962-7130; bloomfield.g.h@cwjamaica.com; 8 Perth Rd; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sat) This immaculate historic home stands atop a hill at the end of a very winding road southwest of the town center. The two-story structure is built in traditional Caribbean vernacular and gleams today thanks to some fine renovations. It is about 170 years old (the exact date is uncertain) and began life as the center of a coffee estate and, later, a citrus plantation, cattle farm and dairy. It's now one of Jamaica's finest art galleries and a premier restaurant. The **art gallery** features works by many of Jamaica's leading artists and is a popular function space for Mandeville's many well-to-do and the local expat population. Most of the work you see is available for purchase; if you want something cheaper than an original work of art, there's a gift and crafts shop on site that sells woodwork, prints and assorted goodies that are a bit more exciting than the stuff you see in a standard Jamaican souvenir shack. The entrance is 200m south of Manchester College, on the opposite side of the road at the crossroads. It's easily walkable from the town center. TTours Jack Mandora ToursSIGHTSEEING TOURS ( %530-6902; www.real-jamaica-vacations.com/jack-mandora) These tours are conducted by the affiliated Real Jamaican Vacations, which tailors special packages for small groups (one to four individuals) at good rates (whole day trips are US$150). Affiliated with local Allison Morris ( %965-2288; www.real-jamaica-vacations.com), a clever, witty joy who can expound for hours on her beloved home island (and offers steel drumming lessons); her website is a fantastic clearinghouse of island information. 4Sleeping Golf View HotelHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %962-4477; www.thegolfviewhotel.com; 51/2 Caledonia Rd; s US$70-90, d US$75-95, ste US$110; p a i W s) This rambling, conference-oriented property features 60-odd rooms centered on a small pool in a concrete courtyard. The complex has a clean, if slightly sterile, feel, but the rooms – decent mid-range standard – are acceptable. The interior decor is surprisingly modern; the four-poster beds are pretty comfy and yes, there's a view of – surprise, surprise – a golf course. Kariba Kariba Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( %962-8006/3039; 1 McKinley Rd; r incl breakfast US$50) North of the town center, Kariba is a beautiful fieldstone home run by a surpassingly friendly English-Jamaican couple. Admittedly, the exterior grounds and lobby are a good deal more attractive than the actual rooms, which are a bit middling, but the staff make a big effort to accommodate guests. The owner can point out nature trails, and also leads customized excursions. Proceed west on Brumalia Rd for 800m; turn right (north) into McKinley Rd and follow for 1km to the junction with the A2 ring-road. The house is on the right. Mandeville HotelHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %962-2460/9764; www.mandevillehoteljamaica.com; Hotel St; r J$8100, ste J$9975; p a W s) This dependable 1875-vintage hotel (one of the oldest on the island) is a well-run establishment with huge, if slightly institutionalized rooms, a decent restaurant and pub, and friendly down-to-earth staff. It caters mainly to Jamaican businesspeople and holidaymakers and you'll feel nicely integrated with them here in a town where tourism isn't really a big deal. 5Eating Fresh produce can be found at the market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) on the south side of Cecil Charlton Park. A Little Pastry PlaceCAFE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; 59 Main St; snacks J$150-350) Perk up on coffee, sugar up on doughnuts, or chill out on local Devon House I Scream. Manchester Arms Pub & RestaurantJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Mandeville Hotel, Hotel St; mains J$500-1500; h4:30-11pm) The Manchester Arms goes all out to give you that pub-in-the-midst-of-Jamaica feeling, an effort that's vaguely successful. The broad menu encapsulates fairly overpriced Jamaican and continental food, but the setting is pretty lovely, especially for the poolside barbecues held on Wednesday night. The last Wednesday of every month is Jamaica Night, with Jamaican food and entertainment, including a live mento band. Star GrillJAMAICAN, INTERNATIONAL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %632-3834; 20 South Racecourse Rd; mains J$700-3000; h10am-10pm Mon-Thu, 10am-11pm Fri & Sat, noon-8pm Sun) Suspend your judgment on Mandeville's newest restaurant. On first impressions, it looks like a modern run-of-the-mill fast food joint, but peer upstairs and you're in different, more skillful, hands. The menu's Jamaican with some international inflections (quesadillas), the service is as fresh as the decor, and the conversation is mainly patois. Bloomfield Great House Restaurant & BarFUSION (8 Perth Rd; mains J$800-2200; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat) The on-site restaurant at Bloomfield Great House is one of Jamaica's preeminent eateries and purveyors of Caribbean fusion cuisine, though it doesn't quite live up to the setting. But it's still quite good: callaloo fettuccine, jumbo shrimp stuffed with jalapeño pepper, filet mignon and, many say, the best fish-and-chips on the island (no mushy peas though). Little OchieSEAFOOD ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %625-3279; Leaders Plaza; mains J$500-2000; h11am-11pm) A satellite of the famous fish restaurant at Alligator Pond, this Little Ochie branch is good. Very good. Not as good as its parent, but hey – we can't all approach perfection. The menu is seafood done in all the traditional Jamaican ways served in a slightly less salubrious setting to its cousin (next to the bus station). 6Drinking & Entertainment This town has a reputation for being popular with newlyweds and seniors, which should tell you how exciting the place can get. The Manchester Arms has a quiet English-style pub that's open late, while Bloomfield Great House has live music on Friday night. VineyardWINE BAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Manchester Rd; h4:30pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 4:on leaves Fri-S30pm until last persun) As posh as Mandeville gets, with flashy small plates and, of course, a good wine menu. 7Shopping BooklandBOOKS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Manchester Shopping Plaza; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) You can struggle to find a decent book shop in small town Jamaica, so all hail to Bookland in the Manchester Plaza, which is notable for its encyclopedic and nicely laid-out Caribbean fiction section, and multitude of tomes on Bob Marley and his legacy. Information Fontana PharmacyPHARMACY ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %962-3129; Manchester Shopping Plaza; h9am-8pm Mon-Thu, 9am-9pm Fri & Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) Mandeville HospitalHOSPITAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %962-2067; 32 Hargreaves Ave) Police StationPOLICE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %962-2250; Park Cres) Post OfficePOST OFFICE ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %962-2339; South Racecourse Rd; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) ScotiabankBANK ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %962-1083; cnr Ward Ave & Caledonia Rd; h8:30am-2:30pm Mon-Thu, 8:30am-4pm Fri) Getting There & Around Mandeville has direct bus, minibus and route-taxi services from virtually every major town in Jamaica. Most buses, and many minibuses and route taxis, depart and arrive from the transportation center, off Main St. Others depart and arrive near the market on the main square. The island-wide Knutsford Express ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.knutsfordexpress.com) connects daily to all of the island's main towns including Kingston (J$1600), Montego Bay (J$2000, four hours), Santa Cruz (J$1400, one hour) and Savanna-la-Mar (J$1600, 2½ hours). #### WORTH A TRIP ### HIGH MOUNTAIN COFFEE FACTORY In the village of Williamsfield, 300m below and northeast of Mandeville, at the base of the Winston Jones Hwy (A2), you can take a free tour of the High Mountain Coffee Factory ( %963-4211; Winston Jones Hwy; tour incl drink US$10; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, tours by appointment). Both the factory and the tour are pretty small, but the whole affair is fascinating, especially the sections where the tour guides explain how coffee is categorized, tasted, packaged and exported (mainly to Japan). We might add the whole place smells amazing. Obviously, you can purchase fresh bags of coffee (plus Scotch bonnet sauce) after the tour is done. ### Shooter's Hill Shooter's Hill begins 3km northwest of Williamsfield and climbs steadily and steeply (430m in elevation) to Christiana. A lookout point midway offers splendid views. On the west side of the road, atop a hillock, is the Moravian-built **Mizpah Church** , topped by a four-faced German clock. If you've ever eaten at a Jamaican restaurant anywhere in the world, you've undoubtedly seen bottles of spicy Pickapeppa sauce. If you've ever wondered where the stuff is made, ponder no more and come to the Pickapeppa Factory ( %603-3439/3441; www.pickapeppa.com; tours J$200; h9am-3pm Mon-Thu), on the B6 at the foot of Shooter's Hill. The plant offers 30-minute tours by appointment. There's honestly not much to see but workers stirring giant pots of simmering scallions, mangoes, peppers and some other ingredients – we'd tell you, but then we'd have to kill you. (Joke!) ### Mile Gully & Around The village of Mile Gully sprawls along a valley that runs northwest from Mandeville in the lee of the forested north face of the Don Figuerero Mountains. The B6 leads northwest from Shooter's Hill, winding, dipping and rising past lime-green pastures dotted with guango (rain) and silk-cotton trees and crisscrossed with stone walls and hedgerows. About 1km west of Mile Gully at **Skull Point** , you'll find a venerable blue-and-white 19th-century police station and courthouse at the junction for Bethany, plus the atmospheric remains of a defunct train station. The name (Skull Point) has nothing to do with the police station, though; it comes from the local church – or at least the ruins of that church. It's a genuinely creepy place, all rotted and burnt out and infested with bats. The local consensus is the grounds are very much haunted (folks were literally yelling at us from their cars to beware of duppies – ghosts – when we arrived), supposedly by beheaded local slave James Knight. The Bethany road climbs sharply and delivers you at the **Bethany Moravian Church** – a simple gray stone building dating to 1835, dramatically perched foursquare midway up the hill with fantastic valley views. The church is rather dour close up, but the simple interior boasts a resplendent organ. Another beautiful church – **St Simon's Anglican Church** – sits on a hillside amid meadows at Comfort Hall, 6km west of Mile Gully, with huge spreading trees festooned with old-man's beard. To the south of the B6, perched atop the Don Figuerero Mountains, at Maidstone, is the humble **Nazareth Moravian Church** , which would look as comfortable on the American prairie as it does in the Jamaican bush. Founded in 1840, Maidstone is one of Jamaica's post-emancipation pre-planned 'free villages,' an early experiment at the intersection of urban planning and social policy. The annual **Emancipation Day Fair** is celebrated at Maidstone on August 1, with mento bands, Jonkanoo celebrations, and maypole and quadrille dancing. Coasters and route taxis operate on the B6 between Mandeville and Maggotty via Mile Gully. If you're driving from Mandeville, the B6 continues west about 8km to Green Hill and a T-junction. About 1.5km north (to the right) of the junction, en route to Balaclava, is a _very dangerous_ spot: you'll climb a short hill that tempts you to accelerate. Unfortunately there's an unmarked railway crossing on the crest and a hairpin bend _immediately_ after. Drive slowly! ## Treasure Beach & Around The sun-kissed land southeast of Black River is sheltered from rain for most of the year by the Santa Cruz Mountains, so there is none of the lush greenery of the north coast. Instead, you'll find a thorny, surreally beautiful semidesert, a landscape almost East African in its scorched beauty. Acacia trees and cacti tower over fields of scallions guarded by fencerows of aloe vera. The region remains unsullied by resort-style tourism; here you can slip into a lazy, no-frills tropical lifestyle almost impossible to achieve elsewhere on the island's coast. Dividing the plains north to south is the aforementioned Santa Cruz range, a steep-faced chain that slopes to the sea and drops 520m at Lover's Leap. Treasure Beach 4Sleeping 1Bay VillaC2 2Golden Sands Beach HotelA2 3Ital RestD4 4Jake's HotelB2 5Kudeyha GuesthouseB3 6Marblue Villa Suites Boutique HotelB3 7Shakespeare CottageA1 8Treasure Beach HotelA1 9Waikiki Guest HouseA2 5Eating 10Jack Sprat CaféA2 Jake's Country CuisineB2 11Pardy'sB2 12Smurf's CafeA1 6Drinking & Nightlife 13Eggy's BarA2 14Fisherman's NightclubB2 15Frenchman's ReefA2 16Wild OnionA1 3Entertainment 17Treasure Beach Sports ParkB2 7Shopping 18Treasure Beach Women's GroupC3 ### Treasure Beach A person who is tired of Treasure Beach is probably lacking in a few essential life forces – like a pulse. Welcome to a unique and wonderfully old-fashioned part of Jamaica that gets all the facets of the quintessential Caribbean experience exactly right without even trying. Winding country lanes, close to zero crime, a dearth of hustlers, sublime deserted beaches, no gimmicky resorts (as yet), and – above all – a proud, foresighted local community that promotes sustainability and harbors a bonhomous but mellow culture. Too good to be true? Not at all. Wander into the new local sports park when a cricket match is in full swing, or walk along deserted Frenchman's Beach where the fisherfolk are more likely to ask you to help them pull in the boats than sell you a trinket. Treasure Beach is the generic name for four coves – Billy's Bay, Frenchman's Bay, Calabash Bay and Great (Pedro) Bay. It's said Scottish sailors were shipwrecked near Treasure Beach in the 19th century, accounting for the presence of fair skin, green eyes and reddish hair among the local population. The area's residents are known for their strong community spirit. Collectives like the Treasure Beach Women's Group and the Treasure Beach Foundation bring locals and expats together to work on projects relating to housing, education and local culture. There's a burgeoning cultural scene, with artists, poets and other luminaries continuing to put down roots. ### TREASURE BEACH FOUNDATION The Treasure Beach Foundation ( %965-3434, 965-0748; www.breds.org; Kingfisher Plaza) or Breds (short for brethren) – is dedicated to fostering heritage pride, sports, health and education among the community, and represents a partnership between the Treasure Beach community, expats and stakeholders (Jamaican and foreign) in the local tourism industry. Work includes restoring decrepit housing, sponsorship of both a soccer team and a basketball team, the introduction of computer labs at local schools and education for the children of fishers lost at sea. 2Activities With a long history (and a large population) of seafaring fishers, it's no wonder Treasure Beach is a great place from which to take to the sea. The best time to book a trip is during the early morning or late afternoon; the winds tend to pick up during the middle of the day. On bright moonlit evenings it is possible to take to the silvery waters for an enchanting tour of the coast. Popular **boating** excursions include the Pelican Bar, Black River Great Morass, and Sunny Island and Little Ochie, both near Alligator Pond. From Frenchman's Beach, boat captain and fisher Dennis Abrahams ( %965-3084, 435-3779; dennisabrahams@yahoo.com) offers a sunset cruise by motorboat to Great Pedro Bluff and Billy's Bay, as well as fishing and on-demand trips to the Pelican Bar and Black River Great Morass. Other recommended captains include Allan Daley ( %366-7394, 423-3673), Teddy Parchment ( %854-5442) and Joseph Brown ( %847-1951, 376-9944). Expect to pay around US$35 for a trip out to Pelican Bar and US$70 for a trip to Black River, although bear in mind the shifting cost of petrol makes prices subject to change. Everyone with a boat in Treasure Beach is involved in some way with the pursuit of **fishing** , and it's easy to talk someone into taking you out to pull a trap or drop a line. Or you can book a fishing trip at Jake's Hotel, which includes rods and bait. Fish frequently caught include grouper, kingfish and snapper; most restaurants are happy to prepare them for the night's dinner. rBeaches Several fishing beaches, all sparsely sprinkled with tourists, beckon within easy walking distance of the major accommodations. Water sports haven't yet caught on, but the waves are good for bodysurfing. Beware, as sometimes a vicious undertow tugs at area beaches. If you head east from Great Bay, across Great Pedro Bluff (it's about a 20-minute walk; ask for directions), you'll discover waves of grassy hills studded with tall cacti, seabirds, very few (if any) people and cow-paths. The sunlight seems to melt into this utterly pastoral coastscape, named by locals **Back Seaside**. Frenchman's BeachBEACH This is the most centrally located beach running east from the Treasure Beach Hotel as far as Jack Sprat's. It is watched over by a landmark buttonwood tree that has long attracted the attention of poets, painters and woodcarvers who ply their wares. Local boat captains congregate here, as does everyone else in the area once the sun starts to set. It's a great place to arrange trips to the Pelican Bar or Black River. Jack Spratt BeachBEACH At the western edge of Jake's Place brightly painted wooden fishing boats are pulled up on the sand, and there is invariably a fisher or two on hand tending the nets. This is the safest beach for swimming. Calabash Bay BeachBEACH Heading east from Jack Spratt Beach, there's Calabash Bay Beach, with a few beach shacks plying rum and – if you're lucky – some basic potluck cuisine (fish, mainly). Old Wharf BeachBEACH The most private of the bunch, although still accessible by anyone who makes the effort to totter down to the sand. Great Bay BeachBEACH All the way at the eastern 'bottom' of Treasure Beach you'll find Great Bay, a pretty, rural patchwork of fields and beach; this is the least-developed portion of Treasure Beach, where the main business remains a Fishermen's Co-op building. TTours Every hotel in Treasure Beach can hook you up with their own recommended tour guides. Treasure ToursSIGHTSEEING TOURS ( %965-0126; www.treasuretoursjamaica.com) Does tours all around the south coast and across the island. zFestivals & Events Calabash International Literary FestivalLITERARY ( %965-3000; www.calabashfestival.org; hlate May) A daring, acclaimed literary festival at Jake's Hotel, drawing literary voices both domestically and internationally. #### DON'T MISS ### COMMUNITY CRICKET IN TREASURE BEACH You'll hear it before you see it; the unmistakable thud of leather on willow, followed by a gentle ripple of appreciative applause. For a dedicated follower of cricket, this quintessential sporting scene needs no further explanation. For those of you who haven't got a clue about the LBW law or how to bowl a 'googly', welcome to an integral part of Jamaican culture. Slow, unassuming Treasure Beach might have been designed with the rhythms of cricket in mind and great excitement met the opening of the Treasure Beach Sports Park in 2012 and its on-site cricket oval. Games – accompanied by wry commentaries and snippets of skanking reggae music – take place most Sunday afternoons year round. Check at Jack Sprat Café for upcoming schedules. The park's cute clapboard pavilion provides an ideal place to mingle with cricket-savvy locals over an icy Red Stripe as the game slowly unravels. Ply them gently and they might even get around to explaining the LBW law. 4Sleeping New villa rentals open in Treasure Beach all the time. Some provide bona fide luxury and considerable style, while others are more modest and practical, providing good value for groups or families. Details can be found at www.treasurebeach.net, www.jamaicaescapes.com and www.treasuretoursjamaica.com. Parking is included at all of the accommodations listed here; prices quoted are high-season rates. oNuestra Casa Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( %965-0152; www.billysbay.com; d US$50; a W) Nuestra Casa is just gorgeous; it's a pretty house run by the lovely Roger and his mum Lillian, who together with their Jamaican staff are the epitome of hospitality. Their laid-back property consists of a beautiful arid flora garden built into porous rocks, a wide veranda peppered with rockers and highly personalized rooms kitted out in quirky, individual (yet also intellectual; the books on hand are amazing) decor. Southview HotelHOTEL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-965-0654; www.southviewhoteljamaica.com; r US$30-80; W s) S Being set back from the main beach area needn't be a disadvantage, especially as Southview is accessed via a pretty, winding lane that cuts through bucolic grassy pastures full of munching cows and goats. The main bonus here is the service – the convivial owners will go out of their way to help you – including picking you up from the beach after dinner. Set in fertile gardens replete with fruit trees and endowed with two swimming pools, the hotel is partly powered by its own wind turbine. Ital RestGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %473-6145, 421-8909; www.italrest.com; r US$50) In the right setting, a lack of electricity rockets a property right into the super-romantic category. Two exquisite all-wood thatched cabins is the deal here. Hang with the Rasta owners as the sun sets, then retire to a candlelit room with a loved one. All rooms have toilets and the upstairs room has a great sundeck. Kitchen facilities are shared. Waikiki Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %345-9669, 965-3660; s/d US$25/50) Location, location, location: this excellent budget option abuts Frenchman's Beach. The rooms are clean and simple; nothing special and nothing to complain about either. The 2nd-floor double in Waikiki's odd concrete tower (prettier than it sounds) is awesome; you can step out onto a little veranda and watch the sun set into the ocean. Waikiki also has a one-bedroom cottage, two two-story cottages and a small house with three bedrooms and kitchen. Golden Sands Beach HotelHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-0167; www.goldensandstreasurebeach.com; r US$55-70, 3-bedroom apt US$165-215; a) Golden Sands is one of the few traditional hotels in Treasure Beach, and could be a good choice for those who don't like the intimacy of sharing a guesthouse, or the length of time needed to book a villa or private house. Rooms vary; some have ceiling fans, others boast sea views, while one- and three-bedroom cottages come with air-con and TV, but they're all clean and quite serviceable. Shakespeare CottageGUESTHOUSE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-0120; www.marycroteau.com; r shared/private bathroom US$20/50, studio US$70; W) This simple budget option has five rooms with fans and bathrooms with cold water only. There's a communal kitchen. The building itself doesn't have much character, but Shakespeare is popular with backpackers, so there's a good social vibe going on. Bay VillaVILLA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %837-0430; bayvillaja@yahoo.com; d US$50, 8-person villa US$170; W) This pleasant red-roofed house is in as central a location as you can get in Treasure Beach, across from the Kingfisher Plaza and a quick jaunt to the beach. Rooms are standard Jamaican: tiled floors, clean walls, chintzy furniture and friendly staff if you need someone to help organize more trips in the area. Kudeyha GuesthouseHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; Old Wharf Rd; US$70-110; p W) S The only common link in Treasure Beach accommodations is they're all wonderful – but for different reasons. Kudeyha is a newish offering within splashing distance of the waves that carries a Rastafarian theme in its three drop-dead gorgeous suites. One has a kitchenette, all have private bathrooms and coffee machines. I-tal meals can be arranged with ingredients plucked from the garden. Treasure Beach HotelHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-0114; www.jamaicatreasurebeachhotel.com; d garden/sea view US$108/132; a W s) This rambling property, dotted with palms and nestled on a hillside overlooking the beach, has a good variety of midrange-quality rooms, including spacious, deluxe oceanfront suites that have king-size four-poster beds and breezy patios. The Yabba Restaurant is on the premises, and the front desk can hook you up with a good range of tours and activities across the region. Inn at Great BayHOTEL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %876-848-3818; s/d US$60/100; a W) The economical choice over in Great Bay is this small inn cum hotel with eight rooms, two of them equipped with kitchenettes and two double beds. The rooms on the upper floor have ocean views and there are a couple of beachside eating places so close you can smell the fish frying. Marblue Villa Suites Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %840-5772, 848-0001; www.marblue.com; Old Wharf Rd; junior ste US$111-122, ste US$255-275; a W s) One of Jamaica's most stylish boutique hotels, this well-run, welcoming property pampers its guests with thoughtful service and considerable streamlined luxury. Five one-bedroom villa suites are appointed with furniture designed by the owners, Axel (architect) and Andrea Wichterich. Each veranda suite features living areas that open to spectacular views of the sea. Weekly barbecues, two dramatic pools, superb cuisine and a spa/meditation room round out the offerings. It's accessible for travelers with disabilities. oJake's HotelHOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-3000, in the UK 020-7440-4360, in the USA 800-688-7678; www.jakeshotel.com; r US$150-395; i W s) S If you haven't been to Jake's, you haven't really been to Treasure Beach. This romance-drenched boutique hotel is the nexus of pretty much everything in the area – cooking courses, yoga classes and mosaic workshops all happen here. Furthermore, it's owned by Jason Henzell, son of film director Perry Henzell who conceived Jamaica's great seminal movie _The Harder They Come_ in 1972. Individually crafted rooms spurn TVs but are big on style and atmosphere. Kouros VillaVILLA ( %965-0126; www.villa-kouros.com; per day US$550, per week US$3600; a W) A slice of Santorini in Jamaica, Kouros consists of a whitewashed, Greek Island–style Great House clustered over a cliff with roof terrace, sundeck, enclosed courtyard and oodles of romance. The interior is as simple and breezy – yet luxurious – as the digs you'd expect in the most romantic Aegean village. Located about halfway between Frenchman's Beach and Billy's Bay. ### GOLDEN EXPERIENCES IN TREASURE BEACH When you've finished reading _War and Peace_ in your beachside hammock, try indulging in something a little bit more energetic... **Cooking Classes** You can widen your culinary skills preparing local delicacies such as _bammy_ , ackee, curried goat and jerk at several places in Treasure Beach. Jake's Hotel offers a regular cooking class for US$35. Private cooking classes can also be organized at Marblue Villa. For a more comprehensive course try Treasure Beach Cooking, run by chef Roddy Drake over in Great Bay. **Eating** On the night of a full moon, Jake's Hotel organizes a special farm-to-table banquet at a nearby farm for US$90 including transport. **Spas** Treasure Beach's most well-known spa is the **Driftwood Spa** at Jake's Hotel. Equally popular is Shirley's Herbal Steam Bath ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-3820; bath & massage US$70-90) in Great Bay that offers just what it says it does, along with a post-bath massage. **Yoga** Classes open to nonguests take place on the roof of the Driftwood Spa at Jake's Hotel overlooking the ocean daily at 9am (US$20). **Cycling** With its quiet country lanes, minimal traffic and scenic coastal paths, there is no better place in Jamaica to cycle. Many hotels rent bikes for approximately US$15 per day. **Movie Nights** There's no cinema in Treasure Beach, but films are shown on an alfresco screen at Jack Sprat Café every Thursday night at 7pm. **Sport** All kinds of sports can be seen (and played) at the new Treasure Beach Sports Park. Sunday afternoons are good for cricket, but there are also periodic boxing tournaments and tennis exhibition matches (Venus and Serena Williams were playing at last visit). 5Eating oSmurf's CafeJAMAICAN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %483-7523; meals J$300-700; h6:30am-1pm) Smurf's is Treasure Beach's most improbable legend. On the surface it's an open-all-hours bottle shop constructed from breeze-blocks and adorned with kitschy blue Smurf motifs. But out the back is a morning-only cafe that cooks up some of the best breakfasts in Jamaica and roasts and brews the most delicious and dangerously addictive coffee this side of....Seattle. Don't be put off by the smudged and dented coffee urn. Indulge in the breakfast of champions. Strikey'sJAMAICAN (Billy's Bay; mains J$400-800; h4-10pm daily Nov-Apr) A seasonal affair run by the energetic, ever-friendly Chris Strikey, who has worked as a professional chef in the US and at Jake's Place, this understated food shack in Billy's Bay is anchored by secret recipes and a hand-built jerk smoker. The food is sublime: Jamaican favorites, home-cooked and mouth-watering, especially the jerk. Pardy'sCAFE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %326-9008; mains J$300-500; h7am-3pm Mon-Sat) On the main road across from Frenchman's Bay, Pardy's does some delicious breakfast and lunch-style fare: lovely callaloo omelets, and pancakes and French toast served with generous helpings of homemade honey in the morning, or light sandwiches as the day beats on. oJack Sprat CaféFUSION ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-3583; mains US$7-20; h10am-11pm) Seafood and pizza aren't obvious bedfellows until you wander into Jack Sprat's, where they dare to put fresh lobster on their thick Italian-style pies. For many it's the start of a beautiful friendship enhanced by the dreamy location (candlelit tables beside a near perfect scimitar of sand) and bohemian interior (a dandy mix of retro reggae posters and old album covers). The star dish out of many is the homemade crab cakes and _bammy_. The star drink: the incredible fruit smoothies. Jake's Country CuisineFUSION ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-3000; mains US$5-27; h7am-11pm; v) This atmospheric spot in the eponymous hotel serves excellent fare in an open-sided wooden restaurant with low lighting and hip music (you can also dine poolside on the patio). The menu shifts daily based on what's growing in the local gardens and what's fresh from the market. Jake's is friendly to vegetarians, although meat eaters will be equally at home. Typical dishes include pumpkin soup, baked lamb, stuffed crab, and chocolate cake for dessert. 6Drinking & Nightlife At night, Treasure Beach appears to be a sleepy place, but local bars party late into the night until the last person leaves. Jake's Hotel has an infamous poolside cocktail hour, while Jack Sprat Café hosts small concerts, poetry readings and outdoor movies. oPelican BarBAR (Caribbean Sea; h10:30am-sunset) The Pelican Bar may be Jamaica's most famous spot for a drink: a thatched hut built on a submerged sandbar 1km out to sea, where you can chill with a Red Stripe while watching dolphins flip in the surf a few meters away. This eatery on stilts provides Jamaica's – and perhaps the planet's – most enjoyable spot for a drink. Getting there is half the fun: hire a local boat captain (most charge around US$40), who will call ahead to arrange things if you want to eat. This is essential for those who want to take a meal out here (mains are US$5 to US$15), which is novel but frankly not necessary – you'll get better food on land. It's best to come here for the beer (or rum, if such is your fancy). The clientele is a mix of enchanted travelers and repeat-business fishers who while away the hours playing dominoes, talking on their cell phones, checking the cricket scores or exchanging pleasantries with the self-satisfied owner. In between Red Stripes, or perhaps before your meal of lobster, shrimp or fish, feel free to slip into the water for a dip. Frenchman's ReefBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-3049; www.frenchmansreeftreasurebeach.com; Frenchman's Bay; h8am-11pm) Four words: draught Red Stripe beer (a rarity in Jamaica). Everything else is a footnote, although the strawberry milkshakes are good, and there's often live music to serenade the sunset. Eggy's BarBAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) Off the main road by Frenchman's Bay, Eggy's is the place to go at sunset; everyone in Treasure Beach, locals and tourists alike, gather here to drink beer, watch the sunset and pass around torpedo-sized spliffs. Fisherman's NightclubBAR, NIGHTCLUB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; hnoon-late) Up a dirt road near Jake's Hotel, the Fisherman's has an open wooden bar where everyone plays dominoes and watches cricket, and an appealing reggae bar out the back with a rickety stage and powerful sound system where you can relive your Rude Boy days. Wild OnionCLUB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; h8am-2am) Located in Frenchman's Bay, the Onion attracts a mix of locals and visitors with its spacious dance floor and pool tables. 3Entertainment oTreasure Beach Sports ParkSPORTS GROUND ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ) This badge of the local community was opened in 2012 and contains tennis courts, several football pitches and – pride of place – a cricket oval. Look out for local posters for upcoming events or ask at Jack Sprat Café. 7Shopping People don't come to Treasure Beach to shop per se, but, truth be told, it's an excellent place to amass some unique Jamaican souvenirs. The lady at the breakfast shack Smurf's Cafe sells bags of her delicious micro-roasted Jamaican coffee for J$1000, the gift shop at Jack Sprat Café plies hip retro film posters of _The Harder They Come,_ while the Treasure Beach Women's Group ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-0748; Old Wharf Rd; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) runs a craft shop selling batiks, calabash shells and the like off Old Wharf Beach. Information For information online, a good starting point is www.treasurebeach.net. There are no banks serving international travelers here, but there is a 24-hour ATM in the Kingfisher Plaza in Calabash Bay. BredsTOURIST INFORMATION ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %965-9748; Kingfisher Plaza; h9am-5pm) Unofficial information center. Police StationPOLICE ( %965-0163) Between Calabash Bay and Pedro Cross. Getting There & Away There is no direct service to Treasure Beach from Montego Bay, Negril or Kingston. Jake's Hotel is now served by its own aerodrome. It's hoped that the building will eventually take public domestic flights, but for now only private charters are landing there – contact Jake's directly for information on fares, and expect them to run for at least a few hundred US dollars. A private taxi will run around US$20 from Black River and US$40 to US$50 from Mandeville. Most hotels and villas arrange transfers from Montego Bay for US$100. Via route taxi or minibus, you can connect to Treasure Beach from Black River (J$250); from Mandeville, you'll need to get a route taxi to Junction or Santa Cruz (J$150) and another taxi to Treasure Beach (J$200). Most accommodations can help with car and motorcycle rental, which, thanks to quiet roads, is quite popular here. If driving, from Black River take the A2 to Santa Cruz and turn south; follow the many signs to Jack Sprat's. Getting Around A bicycle is a good means of getting around quiet Treasure Beach; most hotels and guesthouses rent them out for a small fee. There is one main road connecting all of the beaches, plus many smaller cow-paths and dirt trails. It takes about 30 minutes to walk from Jake's Place to Billy's Bay and 30 minutes to get from Great Bay to Jake's Place. Beautiful walk too! ### Lover's Leap The Santa Cruz Mountains don't tend to slope very gently into the coast even at their most gentle, but at Lover's Leap ( %965-6577; admission US$3; h10am-6pm), 1.5km southeast of Southfield, they positively plunge over 500m into the ocean. This headland provides a very photogenic, end-of-the-world-esque view, and is tipped by a red-and-white-hooped solar-powered **lighthouse**. Far below, waves crash on jagged rocks and wash onto **Cutlass Beach**. You can hike down, a stiff one-hour trek to the bottom, made more difficult by the mocking stare of herds of smug mountain goats. Lover's Leap is named for two young slaves who supposedly committed suicide here in 1747. Legend says the woman was lusted after by her owner, who arranged for her lover to be sold to another estate. When the couple heard of the plot, they fled and were eventually cornered at the cliffs, where they chose to plunge to their deaths. The power of this heartbreaking story is not diminished by the children's play area, souvenir shop, small museum and restaurant that have been set up at the spot where they made their sacrifice. Just over 1½km beyond Lover's Leap (follow the signs), you'll find the spectacularly perched Ocean Breeze Hotel ( %965-6000; www.oceanbreezejamaica.com; Southfield; r garden/ocean view US$34/51) with 23 bright tropical rooms, a restaurant, pool, garden and – well, behold the view! ### Alligator Pond Jamaica is a huge holiday destination for foreigners, but where do Jamaicans go when they want to chill out? Well, if you're from Kingston or the surrounding area, you may very likely drive over to Alligator Pond, hidden at the foot of a valley between two steep spurs of the Santa Cruz and Don Figuerero mountains. This is about as far from packaged-for-foreigners tourism as you can get in Jamaica, but it's got an offbeat Jamaican vacation vibe that's tough not to love. The hamlet is set behind a deep-blue bay backed by dunes. The main street is smothered in wind-blown sand. Each morning, local women gather on the dark-sand beach to haggle over the catch – delivered by fishers, whose colorful old pirogues line the long shore. Local youths surf wooden planks. Amongst all this low-key charm, the main reason to come here is for quite possibly the best dining experience in Jamaica: Little Ochie. 1Sights & Activities The **Sandy Cays** , about 32km offshore, are lined with white-sand **beaches**. The snorkeling and scuba diving are good at **Alligator Reef** , about a 20-minute boat ride from shore; you'll need to organize an outing with a local boat captain, who'll likely charge around US$30 to US$40 for the experience. West of Alligator Pond you may see the cranes of **Port Kaiser** , one of the major bauxite shipping ports on the island. 4Sleeping & Eating Sea-Riv HotelHOTEL ( %360-7609, 450-1356; r US$25-40; p s) If you need to stay over in Alligator Ponds, try this hotel on the black-sand beach next to a river mouth. There are 18 unspectacular, fan-cooled rooms, water sports and many in-the-know guides. oLittle OchieSEAFOOD ( %965-4449; www.littleochie.com; mains J$800-2000; h8am until last guest leaves) Little Ochie is a culinary phenomenon that, despite a cult following, refuses to sell out. Set on an unkempt but romantic slice of beach, it uses the same charcoal-blackened kitchen and scribbled chalkboard menu it has for eons, although the staff has morphed from one to 30 since 1989. The secret? Fish so fresh you can catch them yourself – if you have time. If not, make your choice from what the fishers just brought in and then elect how you want it cooked. The jerk is always a good bet, though it can be HOT. Grilled lobster and steamed snapper also have a dedicated following. And 'dedicated' is the word. Little Ochie is one of Jamaica's few bona fide destination restaurants and has established itself as the No 1 attraction in otherwise sleepy Alligator Pond. Jamaicans drive from Kingston just to eat here; stick your fork in that lobster and you'll soon find out why. Getting There & Around Minibuses and route taxis operate between Alligator Pond and the Beckford St transportation center in Kingston (about J$500), and from Mandeville via Gutters (about J$400). The route from Treasure Beach is trickier and you'll have to change route taxis in Southfield. Hotels and guesthouses in Treasure Beach usually offer 'tours' to Little Ochie for around US$50 round-trip. # Understand Jamaica Jamaica Today Known for reggae rhythms, Rasta cool and athletic prowess, modern Jamaica navigates choppy waters socially and economically. How is the average Jamaican coping? History Taínos and Spaniards; pirates and slave traders; sugar fiefdoms and abolitionists; black nationalists and street politics – how Jamaica's turbulent past shaped its present. Jamaican Culture Jamaica is a fascinating mix of influences: deep spirituality, deprecating humor, political upheaval and a fiercely creative soul. From Bob Marley to Usain Bolt, culturally speaking this is an island that punches far above its weight. Jamaican Landscapes Narrow coastal plains, broad flatlands and rainforests, jagged green mountains pocked with caves cut by countless rivers; all pulsating with wildlife. # Jamaica Today It's quite possible to visit Jamaica and do little more than lie on a beach with a rum cocktail in hand, taking in sunset after spectacular sunset. It's a seductive option (to be fair, we've done plenty of that ourselves), but engage a little further and Jamaica reveals itself to be a far more interesting, exciting and complicated place than you could ever have imagined. ### Global Position Modern Jamaica looks less and less to Britain, its old imperial ruler, instead turning its head more toward the USA. Far from just being that slice of tropical paradise sold through the brochures of all-inclusive resorts, Jamaica is a developing country negotiating its ways through the 21st century, with all the challenges – and opportunities – that presents. A troubled economy has meant an increasing number of Jamaicans (and the majority of those with a post-high school education) are emigrating. Remittances from the Jamaican diaspora made up nearly 20% of the economy in 2013. In keeping with many developing nations, Jamaica has also looked to China, and Prime Minister Portia Simpson-Miller has been keen to pursue closer economic ties to Beijing. The biggest project to come out of this policy has been the controversial Goat Island infrastructure plan. This seeks to turn the Portland Bight Protected Area near Kingston, the largest protected conservation area in Jamaica, into a huge transshipment port and logistics hub. The passionate voices from both those for and against the project raised key questions about the discontents of globalization: are economic development and environment protection mutually exclusive, and who benefits from the scheme – the people, the government or the corporations? The answers that Jamaica finds to these questions will be key in determining its future development. ### Courtroom Drama Throughout the first half of 2014, Jamaica was in thrall to a courthouse drama unfolding in downtown Kingston. Vybz Kartel, who has spent a decade as both the country's most popular and infamous dancehall star, was found guilty of the murder of his associate Clive 'Lizard' Williams. The trial, which was the longest in Jamaica's history, became the nation's equivalent of the OJ Simpson affair, holding a mirror up to society and reflecting back the prejudices of the individual viewer. Church-goers condemned the slack morality of dancehall and spoke of the need to return to Christian virtues; Uptown society saw the comeuppance for a public life that repeatedly blurred the lines between DJ and criminal don; and those in the ghetto saw a hero unfairly punished while corrupt politicians and policeman act with impunity. For one brief moment, all the anxieties of modern Jamaican life seemed to bubble to the surface. ### Running Pride The country celebrated its 50th anniversary of independence from Britain in 2012, a year of remarkable highs. Fittingly in London, Jamaica again showed the strength of its stride on the international scene, with Usain Bolt and Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce leading the Jamaican athletics team to Olympic triumphs. Their medals emphasized the golden nature of the jubilee, and proved the little island punches far above its weight. Bolt and Fraser-Pryce shone again in 2013, winning six golds between them at the World Championships in Moscow, though the year was marred by the positive drugs tests of Jamaican legends Asafa Powell and Veronica Campbell Brown. Jamaica's pride in their athletic prowess can not be underestimated, nor can their shock and disappointment at seeing two of their Olympic gold medal heroes fall. ### Jamaican Conversations Jamaicans tend to be passionate people. Their full-bore approach to life is what often attracts (and occasionally intimidates) visitors to their island. The easiest way to hear lively patois is to talk politics with a Jamaican; most, including deceptively laid-back Rastas, have well-crafted and informed opinions on current affairs in Jamaica, and even the optimistic ones have their gripes. On this island there are as many opinions on how to fix things as there are Jamaicans. Travelers, however, remain well regarded by the average Jamaican. Tourism – an industry where Jamaica was an early pioneer of globalization – is the second-largest segment of the economy, and remains a testament to the fact that despite the challenges, Jamaicans are determined to share their island with the world. Best on Film The Harder They Come (1972) A classic rags-to-rude _bwai_ (rude boy) story of a country boy turned Kingston criminal. One of the best soundtracks in film history. Marley (2012) Exemplary documentary about the life and music of reggae superstar Bob Marley. Better Mus Come (2013) Acclaimed feature about Jamaica's gang troubles of the 1970s. Life and Debt (2001) A powerful documentary on the impact of globalization on the Jamaican economy. Best in Print The Book of Night Women (2009) Gripping tale of a female-led plantation revolts, by Marlon James. The Lunatic (1987) Comic novel revolving around a village madman and his affair with a tourist, by Anthony Winkler Lionheart Gal (1986) A lively short-story collection that reveals much about patois and the lives of women. White Witch of Rose Hall (1928) Herbert de Lisser's classic Gothic horror, set in colonial Jamaica. ### Population 2.93 million ### GDP US$25.13 billion ### GDP per Capita US$9000 ### Public Debt 123% of GDP ### Inflation Rate 9.4% ### Unemployment Rate 16.3% # History Through conquest, settlement and plantocracy, Jamaica's history is to be found at the sharp edge of Western colonialism. Sugar and slavery led to the island briefly becoming Britain's wealthiest colony, yet resistance to that project helped create a national identity that led to reform, and the path to independence. The legacy of those 300 years leaves its mark on the island still, with color lines drawn and with post-independence discontent leading the have-nots to turn upon each other. Yet the passion and the perseverance of the Jamaican people, which have made the island and its culture so vital, still leads you to imagine a brighter future. _The Story of the Jamaican People_ by Philip Sherlock and Hazel Bennett offers a new interpretation of Jamaica's history that eschews the imperial perspective, instead looking to Africa for the keys to understanding the island's complex culture. ## Xaymaca The Caribbean was inhabited long before Christopher Columbus sailed into view, colonized by a successive wave of island-hopping incomers originally from South America. Most notable were the Arawaks, and then the Taínos who first settled 'Xaymaca' ('land of wood and water') around AD 700–800. The Taínos were both farmers and seafarers, living in large chiefdoms called caciques, and honing their skills as potters, carvers, weavers and boat builders. They worshipped a variety of gods believed to control rain, sun, wind and hurricanes, and who were represented by zemes, idols of humans or animals. Clothing was made of cotton or pounded bark fibers, along with jewelry of bone, shell, and gold panned from rivers. While Taíno artifacts remain relatively few, the crops they bequeathed to the world were revolutionary, from tobacco and yams to cassava and pineapples. ## Columbus & Spanish Settlement Christopher Columbus landed on the island in 1494 on his second voyage to the New World, landing at Bahía Santa Gloria (modern St Ann's Bay) and making first contact with the Taínos along the coast at Discovery Bay. Although he didn't linger, he claimed the island for Spain and christened it Santo Jago. Columbus returned disastrously in 1503, when his poorly maintained ships sank beneath him. He and his crew spent almost a year marooned, and suffered from disease and malnutrition. Finally, two officers paddled a canoe 240km to Hispaniola to raise a rescue expedition. Jamaica became Columbus' personal property and when he died in 1506 it passed to his son Diego, who appointed a governor to establish a capital called Nueva Sevilla, near present-day Ocho Rios. Within three decades of their first meeting with Europeans, the Taínos were quickly reduced to a shadow of their previous numbers, stricken by European illnesses and the forced labor required to dig for gold. In response, the Spaniards began importing West African slaves. In 1534 a new settlement was founded on the south coast, Villa de la Vega (Spanish Town). However, Spain had become distracted by the immense riches coming from its new possessions in Mexico and Peru, and Jamaica languished as a post for provisioning ships sailing between Spain and Central America. Visit the ruins of the first Spanish settlement on the island at the Maima Seville Great House near St Ann's Bay. ## The English Invasion On May 10, 1655, an expeditionary force of 38 ships landed 8000 troops on weakly defended Jamaica as part of Oliver Cromwell's 'Grand Western Design' to destroy the Spanish trade monopoly and amass English holdings in the Caribbean. The British had to fight both Spanish loyalists and the _cimarrones_ (runaways) – freed slaves left in the Spaniards' wake. The guerrilla warfare lasted several years until the last Spanish forces were finally routed at the Battle of Rio Bueno (outside Ocho Rios) in 1660. By 1662 there were 4000 colonists on the island, including exiled felons as well as impoverished Scots and Welsh who arrived as indentured laborers. Port Royal, across the bay from Spanish Town, became the island's capital, and a viable trading economy slowly began to evolve. Before his execution on May 23, 1832, Sam Sharpe is quoted as saying, 'I would rather die upon yonder gallows than live in slavery.' ## The Age of the Buccaneers Throughout the 17th century, Britain was constantly at war with France, Spain or Holland. The English sponsored privateers to capture enemy vessels, raid their settlements and contribute their plunder to the Crown's coffers. These buccaneers became the Brethren of the Coast, committed to a life of piracy, and grew into a powerful and ruthless force, feared throughout the Antilles. In 1664 the Jamaican governor Sir Thomas Modyford invited the Brethren to defend Jamaica, with Port Royal as their base. Their numbers swelled astronomically, and within a decade Port Royal was Jamaica's largest city – a den of iniquity and prosperity. When England and Spain finally made peace, the pirates' days became numbered. Mother Nature lent a hand in their suppression when a massive earthquake struck Port Royal on June 7, 1692, toppling it into the sea. More than 2000 people – one-third of the city's population – perished, and survivors fled to newly founded Kingston, believing the earthquake to be punishment from God. Jamaica National Heritage Trust provides a guide to Jamaica's history and heritage, covering all sites of importance on the island. ### JAMAICA'S NATIONAL HEROES After independence, Jamaica honored seven heroes for their special roles in forging the national identity. Memorialized at National Heroes Park in Kingston, they're also depicted on the currency. * Paul Bogle (c 1820–1865) staged the 1865 protests that became the Morant Bay Rebellion. * Alexander Bustamante (1884–1977) was a firebrand trade unionist and founder of the Jamaica Labour Party, who became independent Jamaica's first prime minister. * Marcus Garvey (1887–1940) was a key proponent of Pan-Africanism and father of the 'black power' movement. * George William Gordon (1820–65), a lawyer, assemblyman and post-emancipation nationalist, was a powerful advocate of the rights of the poor. * Norman Manley (1893–1969) founded the People's National Party and became the self-governing island's first prime minister, prior to independence. * Nanny of the Maroons (c 1686–c 1733) was a leader of the Windward Maroons in the 18th century. Folklore attributes her with magical powers. * Samuel Sharpe (1801–1832), a slave and Baptist deacon, was hanged for his leadership of the Christmas Rebellion of 1831. ## Sugar & Slavery Europe's sweet tooth had been growing for years, and sugar – cultivated by African slaves – helped turn Jamaica into Britain's wealthiest colony and helped provide the capital that fueled the Industrial Revolution. Planters built 'great houses' in Georgian fashion high above their cane fields, and lived a life of indolence, but many were absentee landlords, forming the powerful sugar lobby back in London. Many overindulged in drink and had sexual relations with slaves – some of the mulatto offspring were freed; known as 'free coloreds,' they were accorded special rights and often sent to study in England. Plantations were both farm and factory, growing the cane and refining the sugar. The by-product molasses was turned into cheap rum for export. Sugar production was back-breaking work, and while some planters nurtured their slaves, most resorted to violence to terrorize the population into obedience. The extreme treatment was eventually regulated, but plantation society remained tied to the rule of the whip. Most slaves worked on plantations; others were domestic servants. During their few free hours, the slaves cultivated their own tiny plots, and could sell produce at market. By 1800, the slave population of 300,000 outnumbered the free population twenty to one. Matthew Parker's _The Sugar Barons_ is a gripping account of the founding of Britain's Caribbean slave empire, with Jamaica taking center stage. ### THE ATLANTIC SLAVE TRADE The Atlantic slave trade was dubbed 'the triangular trade.' European merchants sailed to West Africa with goods to exchange for slaves. Although domestic slavery had long been an established part of many African societies, European demand (and trade goods such as firearms) turned African states into asset-strippers, sucking in captives in insatiable numbers, often from tribes living 1000 miles from African slave ports. Traders packed hundreds of shackled captives into the bowels of their ships. Around one in eight died during the voyage, which lasted two to three months. The slaves were sold for sugar, which was then exported back to Europe – the third profitable leg of the trade. During the lifetime of the trade, around 12 million slaves were brought to the Americas, of whom around 1.5 million ended up in Jamaica. ## Maroon Resistance Colonial life was paranoid over the possibility of slave rebellion. The first major revolt occurred in 1690 in Clarendon parish, when escaped slaves joined the descendants of slaves that had been freed by the Spanish, coalescing into two powerful bands called Maroons. The Windward Maroons lived in the remote Blue Mountains, while the Leeward Maroons colonized the almost impenetrable Cockpit Country. Both groups raided plantations and attracted runaway slaves. Colonial troops fought several prolonged campaigns against the Maroons, who were led by Nanny in the Blue Mountains and Cudjoe in Cockpit Country. The thickly forested mountains, however, were ill-suited to traditional British military tactics and perfect for the Maroons' ambush-style guerrilla warfare. Nonetheless, after a decade of costly campaigning, the English gained the upper hand. In March 1739, the English signed a peace treaty with Cudjoe, granting the Maroons autonomy and 1500 acres of land. In return, the Maroons agreed to chase down runaway slaves and return them to the plantations and to assist the English in quelling rebellions. The Maroons of the Blue Mountains, now led by Quao, signed a similar treaty one year later. To this day, the Maroons still practice a semi-autonomous form of government. Mavis Campbell's _The Maroons of Jamaica_ is a serious study of the origins of the Maroons and their evolution as a culture through to the late-19th century. ## Revolt & Reform After a prolonged campaign by abolitionist campaigners such as Thomas Clarkson and William Wilberforce, Britain abolished the slave trade in 1807, although the institution of slavery itself was left untouched. Jamaica's 1831 Christmas Rebellion lent particular focus to the debate. Inspired by 'Daddy' Sam Sharpe, an educated slave and lay preacher, up to 20,000 slaves razed plantations and killed their masters. The rebellion was violently suppressed, and 400 slaves were hanged as a result. The brutality of the response lent weight to British abolitionist debates. In 1834 the British Parliament finally passed antislavery legislation, emancipating the empire's slaves. The resulting transition from a slave economy to one based on paid labor caused economic chaos; most slaves rejected the starvation wages offered on the estates, choosing to fend for themselves. Desperation over conditions and injustice finally boiled over in the 1865 Morant Bay Rebellion. ### THE MORANT BAY REBELLION In the 1860s Paul Bogle, a Black Baptist deacon in St Thomas parish, preached resistance against the post-emancipation injustices of the local authorities. He was supported by George William Gordon, a mulatto planter and assemblyman. On October 11, 1865, Bogle and his supporters marched to the Morant Bay courthouse to protest the trial of a vagrant for trespass. A riot ensued and the courthouse and town center were razed. As the countryside erupted, Bogle fled with a bounty on his head, but was captured by Maroons and hanged from the burned-out courthouse. Gordon was arrested in Kingston, condemned by a kangaroo court and also hanged. Governor Edward Eyre ordered vicious reprisals. Martial law was declared and some 439 people were killed in arbitrary executions and more than 1000 homes were burned down. Such was the subsequent outrage in Britain that Eyre was stripped of his post along with the powers of the Jamaican House of Assembly, turning the island into a Crown colony. ## 'Come Mr Tallyman, tally me banana...' In 1866 a Yankee skipper, George Busch, arrived in Jamaica and loaded several hundred stems of bananas, which he transported to Boston and sold at a handsome profit. He quickly returned to Port Antonio, where he encouraged production and soon had himself a thriving export business. Captain Lorenzo Dow Baker followed suit in the west, forming the United Fruit Company. Within a decade the banana trade was booming. Production peaked in 1927, when 21 million stems were exported. To help pay the passage south to Jamaica, banana traders promoted the island's virtues and took on passengers. Thus, the banana-export trade gave rise to the tourism industry, which continues to grow and flourish. _The Killing Time: The Morant Bay Rebellion in Jamaica_ by Gad Heuman explores the roots and the political aftermath of the rebellion that was brutally suppressed by the British authorities. Pieces of the Past (www.jamaica-gleaner.com/pages/history) is a compendium of thematic essays about Jamaican history. ## Birth of a Nation During the Depression of the 1930s, sugar and banana sales plummeted, causing widespread economic hardships. Strikes and riots erupted in 1938, but out of the clamor stepped the charismatic labor leader Alexander Bustamante and his Bustamante Industrial Trade Union. That same year, his cousin Norman Manley formed the People's National Party (PNP), Jamaica's first political party. Separately they campaigned for economic and political reforms, putting the working class into political life and securing constitutional changes. Not content with trade union activism, Bustamante formed the Jamaica Labour Party (JLP) in 1943. A year later, a new constitution granted universal suffrage and Jamaica's first elections, which were won by Bustamante's JLP. There was a brief flirtation with the fledgling West Indies Federation of British colonies, but on August 6, 1962, Jamaica finally gained full independence. The Union Jack was replaced by Jamaica's new flag, in glorious black (for the people), green (for the land) and gold (for the sun). Tony Sewall's _Garvey's Children: The Legacy of Marcus Garvey_ provides a look at the rise of black nationalism inspired by national hero Marcus Garvey. ### UP YOU MIGHTY RACE! Marcus Garvey was born of working-class parents in St Ann's Bay on August 17, 1887. After traveling to Costa Rica, Panama and England, he returned a firm believer in self-improvement and he founded the Universal Negro Improvement Association (UNIA) in 1914 to unite 'all the Negro peoples of the world to establish a state exclusively their own.' When Jamaica's middle classes proved largely unreceptive to his message, he moved in 1916 to the US, where he received a rapturous welcome and formed a branch of the UNIA in New York. The UNIA is credited for giving birth to the Black Panther movement, which in turn paved the way for the civil rights movement. Garvey, a gifted orator, established a weekly newspaper, the _Negro World,_ and built an enormous following under the slogan 'One God! One Aim! One Destiny!' Garvey set up the Black Star Line, a steamship company, with the aim of eventually repatriating blacks to Africa, though it ultimately failed due to poor management. Garvey's greatest achievement was to instill the post-colonial black community with a sense of self-worth and pride: 'Up you mighty race, you can accomplish what you will.' Considering Garvey a dangerous agitator, the American and British governments conspired against him, and in 1922 they arrested him on dubious mail-fraud charges. He served two years in Atlanta Federal Prison before being deported to Jamaica, where he founded the reformist People's Political Party. Universal franchise did not then exist in Jamaica, and he failed to gather enough support at the polls. In 1935 he departed for England, where he died in poverty in 1940. His remains were repatriated to Jamaica in 1964 and interred with state honors in National Heroes Park in Kingston. The advent of reggae music in the 1970s gave rise to a new wave of Garveyism. ## The Manley–Seaga Era The legacies of Bustamante and Manley have dominated post-independence politics. Manley's son Michael led the PNP toward democratic socialism in the mid-'70s. His policy of taxation to fund social services deterred foreign investment but caused widespread capital flight, and bitterly opposed factions engaged in open urban warfare before the 1976 election. Amid a controversial state of emergency, the PNP won the election by a wide margin. The US government was hostile to Jamaica's socialist turn, withdrew aid and purportedly planned to topple the Jamaican government. The economy (tourism in particular) went into sharp decline. JLP–PNP violence escalated until a ceasefire was finally brokered, celebrated by the famed 'One Love' concert in April 1978, when Bob Marley got Manley and the JLP's Edward Seaga to hold hands in a symbol of unity. Nevertheless, almost 800 people were killed in the lead-up to the 1980 elections, which were won by Seaga. Seaga opened the door to the free market and International Monetary Fund, and became a staunch ally of the Reagan administration. Relatively peaceful elections in 1989 returned a reinvented 'mainstream realist' Manley to power; when he retired in 1992, he handed the reins to his deputy, Percival James Patterson, who became Jamaica's first black prime minister. David Howard's _Kingston_ is an engaging exploration of the capital's history, from Spanish to modern times. ## The PNP Years The Patterson-led PNP triumphed in the 1993 and 1997 elections. In spring 1999 the country erupted in nationwide riots after the government announced a 30% increase in the tax on gasoline. Kingston and Montego Bay, where sugarcane fields were set ablaze, were particularly badly hit. After three days of arson and looting, the government rescinded the tax. In the lead-up to the 2002 elections, violence in West Kingston soared to new heights as criminal posses battled to control electoral turf and profit from the largesse that victory at the polls in Jamaica brings. Rival political gangs turned the area into a war zone, forcing residents to flee, and schools, businesses and even Kingston Public Hospital to close. In 2004 Hurricane Ivan bounced off Jamaica en route to the Cayman Islands, causing widespread damage, and Edward Seaga – still representing the JLP as opposition leader – retired after more than three decades in politics. Two years later Prime Minister Patterson resigned, giving way to Portia Simpson-Miller, Jamaica's first female prime minister and Michael Manley's protégé. 'Mama P' was initially popular with the masses, but 18 years of PNP rule bred voter disillusionment with the party. In the 2007 elections, Bruce Golding of the JLP carried the day, inheriting high rates of crime and illiteracy as well as threats to the environment through deforestation and overdevelopment. Jamaica carries a debt to foreign banks exceeding US$800 billion. _Life & Debt,_ a documentary film by Stephanie Black, takes a provocative look into the island's burden. ## From Dudus to the Present Politics and gang crime came to a head in 2009, when the US called for the extradition of Christopher 'Dudus' Coke, the don of the pro-PNP Tivoli Gardens ghetto and one of the most powerful men in Jamaica, on alleged gun- and drug-running charges. The demand for extradition was originally refused, but after US pressure the Jamaican authorities finally agreed to go after him. In May 2010, a joint police-military force underwent the controversial Tivoli Incursion, which left some 74 dead – including many bystanders, with others the victims of alleged extra-judicial executions. Dudus himself remained on the run for a month before being apprehended and extradited. He is now serving a 23-year sentence in the US, although his absence left a power vacuum in the poverty-stricken Tivoli area. In 2011, Portia Simpson-Miller was returned as prime minister. In a reflection of the changing geopolitical climate, her government has looked to China as much as America, using Jamaica's long-standing Chinese community to leverage increased investment from Beijing. A stabilizing political scene, coupled with the country's renewed image following the Olympic success of its athletes, has buoyed tourism returns, although long-standing foreign debt problems meant that in 2013 the government had to go cap in hand to the IMF for restructured loans. Jamaicans still require their vaunted resolve and good humor to face the challenges of the new century. #### Timeline AD 700–800 Taínos settle on the island, calling it 'Xaymaca,' meaning 'land of wood and water.' 1494 Christopher Columbus first lands on Jamaica, which he names Santa Jago; it later becomes his personal property. 1503 Columbus returns to Jamaica for the fourth time, convinced he can forge a passage to Asia. However, his decrepit ships are ruined and he and his party become stranded. 1517 The Spanish bring enslaved West Africans to do their bidding on the island in place of the Taínos, whose population has been decimated by European disease and appalling treatment. 1643 Jamaica is sacked by English pirate William Jackson, raising doubt about the security of the Spanish colony. 1655 The English capture Jamaica from the Spanish, who retreat to Cuba. 1670 At the Treaty of Madrid, the Spanish cede Jamaica to the English. Both nations agree to cease trading in each other's territories. 1692 Port Royal slides into the harbor after an earthquake, killing more than 2000 people. Kingston is founded the following year as a replacement to the port. 1700 There are more than five slaves for every English settler on Jamaica. The practice of slavery creates enormous economic bounty for the English, at terrible cost to the enslaved. 1720 Notorious pirate 'Calico Jack' Rackham is executed in Port Royal, his body hung in a cage above Rackham Cay. 1760 Tacky, a runaway slave, starts an uprising in St Mary that is brutally suppressed with the aid of the local Maroons. 1814 Jamaican sugar production peaks at £34 million. During the latter half of the 18th century and the first half of the 19th, Jamaica is the world's largest producer of sugar. 1834 Slavery is abolished throughout the British Empire, causing economic chaos in Jamaica. 1845 To fill the labor gap left by the abolition of slavery, 30,000 Indians are brought to Jamaica as indentured laborers. 1865 The Morant Bay Rebellion, led by Paul Bogle, is brutally suppressed by the British authorities. 1907 A great earthquake topples much of Kingston on January 14, causing widespread destruction and killing more than 800 people. 1930 Haile Selassie is crowned emperor of Ethiopia, encouraging the rise of Rastafarianism in Jamaica. 1938 Jamaica's first political party, the People's National Party (PNP), is formed by Norman Manley, who works with the Bustamante Industrial Trade Union to make working-class issues a main focus of Jamaican politics. 1941 Thousands of Jamaican servicemen volunteer to fight for Britain during WWII. 1943 The Jamaica Labour Party (JLP) is formed by Alexander Bustamante. 1944 A new constitution introduces universal suffrage and the first elections are held for a locally based government. 1962 Jamaica becomes an independent nation within the British Commonwealth. 1963 At the height of the ska era in Jamaican music, Clement Dodd begins recording Bob Marley and the Wailers. 1966 On the second stop of his Caribbean trip, HIM Haile Selassie I is greeted by nearly 100,000 chanting Rastafarians at the airport. 1972 Michael Manley launches socialist reforms, and tries to promote Jamaica's self-sufficiency by rejecting close ties with the US and allying Jamaica with Cuba. 1976 In the lead-up to the election, tensions between Jamaica's two political parties erupt into open warfare in the streets between politically aligned gangs. A state of emergency is declared. 1978 The One Love peace concert is held in Kingston, following Bob Marley's homecoming; 100,000 people attend. The PNP and JLP declare a peacefire in its honor. 1980 The JLP's Edward Seaga is elected to power, and begins transforming Jamaica's foreign engagement, cutting ties with Cuba, and positioning himself as a friend of the Reagan administration. 1988 Hurricane Gilbert slams Jamaica, killing 45 people and causing damage estimated at up to US$1 billion. 2004 At least 15 people are killed by Hurricane Ivan, with Negril being particularly hard hit. The banana-tree population is ravaged, and the following year banana exports drop by 68%. 2006 Portia Simpson-Miller, of the PNP, becomes Jamaica's first female prime minister. 2008 At the Beijing Olympic Games, world records are broken by sprinter Usain Bolt in the 100m and 200m and with the Jamaican men's team in the 400m relay. 2010 Christopher 'Dudus' Coke, don of the Tivoli Gardens ghetto, is extradited to the US after an armed standoff between gang members and the Jamaican police and military. # Jamaican Culture Oh Jamaican clichés, how do we love thee? Let us count the ways: Spliff-puffing Rastas, violent rude boys from the Kingston ghettoes, deep reggae vibes and slack dancehall lyrics – come one, come all! We're not saying that the stereotypes don't exist, but exploring Jamaica is about discovering a culture as diverse as the island's geography is varied. Born of an often-troubled history, it's both complicated and exciting – as smooth as a cup of Blue Mountain coffee, as buzzing as a shot of white overproof rum. ## 'Out of Many, One People' The nation's motto reflects the diverse heritage of Jamaica. Along with the many West Africans imported as slaves, the population was salted with English, Scots, Irish, Welsh and Germans, along with Hispanic and Portuguese Jews and 'Syrians' (a term for all those of Levantine extraction), as well as Chinese and Indians, who arrived as indentured workers following emancipation. Jamaica proclaims itself a melting pot of racial harmony. Still, insecurities of identity have been carried down from the plantation era. The issue of class lines drawn during the colonial era has left profound societal divisions and is closely tied to color; lighter-skinned Jamaicans are far more likely to hold better-paid jobs, and skin bleaching is a common phenomenon. The middle classes have always sought to distance themselves from the inhabitants of shanty towns. There is some lingering resentment against whites, particularly among the poorer segment of society, and disillusionment with post-independence Jamaica. Jamaicans can be the most gracious people you'll ever meet: hardworking, helpful, courteous, genteel and full of humility. However, charged memories of slavery and racism have continued to bring out the spirit of anarchy latent in a society divided into rich and poor. Jamaicans struggling hard against poverty are disdainful of talk about a 'tropical paradise.' Jamaicans love to debate, or 'reason.' They tend to express themselves forcefully, turning differences of opinion into voluble arguments with some confounding elliptical twists and stream-of-consciousness associations. Jamaicans' sarcasm and sardonic wit is legendary. The deprecating humor has evolved as an escape valve that hides their true feelings. In a country where it's hard to make a living, the saying that 'everyt'ing irie' – no problems – can mark black humor indeed. Patois Patterns When Jamaicans speak patois, often they drop their 'h's' (thus, _ouse_ instead of 'house') and add them in unexpected places (eg, _hemphasize_ ). Jamaicans usually drop the 'h' from 'th' as well: hence, _t'anks_ for 'thanks.' 'The' is usually pronounced as _de_ and 'them' as _dem_. They also sometimes drop the 'w,' as in _ooman_ (woman). ## Living in Jamaica Jamaica is classed as a middle-income country, and it has a small but significant middle class – well educated, entrepreneurial and frequently with close ties to the UK and America. Despite this, many Jamaicans live in pockets of extreme poverty, either in the countryside, eking out a life as farmers, fishermen or plantation laborers, or scraping by in Kingston's ghettoes and shanties. Job opportunities are difficult to come by without a proper education, which doesn't come cheap, so many low-income Jamaicans hustle, waiting for an opportunity to present itself. The average per capita income is only US$4390 (J$371,615) and many Jamaicans are reliant on remittances sent by family members living abroad. Jamaica's tiny Jewish community is the oldest in the New World. Visit www.ucija.org for more information on the Kingston-based community band synagogue. ### HOMOPHOBIA IN JAMAICA Ever since Buju Banton's 1990s dancehall hit 'Boom Bye Bye' made international headlines for its apparent celebration of the murder of gay men, Jamaica has gained an unfortunate reputation as one of the most homophobic countries in the world – a reputation thrown into even sharper relief with the 2013 lynching of transsexual teenager Dwayne Jones at a Montego Bay dance party. Dancehall homophobia is merely a reflection of deeper currents within Jamaican society. This is a deeply devout Christian country, where homosexuality is preached against as a Biblical sin, and often seen as a Western colonial import – a threat to the fabric of society itself. Homophobic violence is common, from verbal and physical abuse to 'corrective rape' against lesbians (in a country where sexual violence against women is sadly all to commonplace). Pejorative terms like 'batty man' and 'fish' are still thrown about, despite 2007's Reggae Compassionate Act, which sought to strip dancehall of its homophobic elements. Homelessness is a particular problem for young gay men, who are often ostracized by their families. Jamaica has the highest rate of prostate cancer in the world, with anecdotal evidence suggesting a link to a perceived homosexual stigma attached to getting a rectal check-up. For all this, Jamaica's LGBT community is increasingly visible and assertive, from organizations such as J-Flag (Jamaica Forum for Lesbians, All-Sexuals and Gays; www.jflag.org) and Quality of Citizenship Jamaica (www.qcjm.org), to the campaign to repeal the 1864 Buggery Law which criminalizes all anal sex. Despite pushback from Christian organizations, societal attitudes remain in flux, from the wild popularity of the outrageously camp comedy actor Keith 'Shebada' Ramsey, to the influence that gay fashion has had on the hyper-masculine dancehall world. Like many things in Jamaica, homophobia is a lot more complicated than it first appears. ## Religion & Spirituality Jamaica professes to have the greatest number of churches per square kilometer in the world. Although most foreigners associate the island with Rastafarianism, more than 80% of Jamaicans identify themselves as Christian. Jamaica's most celebrated theater company is the National Dance Theatre Company, which performs at the Little Theatre in Kingston and incorporates Kumina movements into their routines. ### OBEAH & MYAL Jamaica has its own folk magic system, based on practices derived from West Africa, and similar to Haiti's Vodou or Cuba's Santería. Myal is essentially 'white magic' to obeah's 'black magic.' Largely a rural practice, it involves invoking the services of a practitioner who can cast or dispel a curse, bring you luck, or force your partner to be faithful, using an arsenal of herbs, powders (including grave dust), specially shaped candles and power rings to achieve their objective. The summoning of duppies, or spirits, is central to the practice. Jamaicans believe that your spirit roams the earth for nine days after you die, and in that time it can be summoned to do good or evil. Many Jamaicans still observe Nine Night, a 'wake' held for nine nights after someone's death to ensure that the spirit of the deceased (duppy) departs to heaven – these can be pretty big parties complete with soundsystems. Invoking duppies involves a ritual circle comprised of bottles topped with candles. The entrance or 'gateway' to the circle is barred with a cutlass or machete and the circle may contain food offerings to the spirits, as well as chalked symbols. Nonbelievers dismiss obeah as superstitious nonsense, but everyone knows where the nearest obeah shop is, and local newspapers often feature hilarious 'duppy' stories in their news round-ups. Judging by the charms you find in many Jamaican homes, obeah still has a powerful grip on the nation's psyche. ### Christianity On weekends, it's common to see adults and children walking along country roads holding Bibles and dressed in their finest outfits. Every church in the country seems to overflow with the righteous, and the old fire-and-brimstone school of sermonizing is still the preferred mode. It's hard to over-emphasize the social and cultural influence of the church in Jamaica. The most popular denomination is the Anglican Church of Jamaica, followed by Seventh-Day Adventists, Pentecostals, Baptists, Methodists and Catholics. The lavishly illustrated _Reggae Routes: The Story of Jamaican Music_ by Wayne Chen and Kevin O'Brien Chang is required reading for anyone exploring the island's musical culture. ### Revivalism Jamaica has several sects that are generically named Revivalist cults after the post-emancipation Great Revival, during which many blacks converted to Christianity. The most important Revivalist branches are Zionism and Pocomania (Pukkumina), the former being more Bible-centered, and the latter involving ancestor worship. A core Revivalist belief is that spirits live independently of the body and can inhabit inanimate objects and communicate themselves to humans. Revivalist ceremonies are characterized by the flowing robes of the congregation, chanting, drumming, speaking in tongues and spirit possession. They are held in designated poco yards, led by a 'shepherd' or 'mother,' who interprets the messages of the spirits. Rarer these days, Kumina is the most African of the Revivalist cults, combining evocation of ancestral spirits with call-and-response chanting and intricate drumming rhythms and dancing. Barry Chevannes' _Rastafari: Roots and Ideology_ and _Rasta Heart: A Journey Into One Love_ by Robert Roskind are noteworthy books on Jamaica's most-talked-about creed. ### Rastafarianism Dreadlocked Rastafarians are as synonymous with Jamaica as reggae. Developed in the 1930s, the creed evolved as an expression of poor, black Jamaicans seeking fulfillment, boosted by Marcus Garvey's 'back to Africa' zeal. Central to Rastafarianism is the concept that the Africans are one of the displaced Twelve Tribes of Israel. Jamaica is Babylon, and their lot is in exile in a land that cannot be reformed. The crowning of Ras Tafari (Haile Selassie) as emperor of Abyssinia in 1930 fulfilled the prophecy of an African king and redeemer who would lead them from exile to the promised land of Zion, the black race's spiritual home. Ganja smoking is a sacrament for many (if not all) Rastas, allowing them to gain wisdom and inner divinity through the ability to 'reason' more clearly. The parsing of Bible verses is an essential tradition, helping to see through the corrupting influences of Babylon. The growing of dreadlocks is an allegory for the mane of the Lion of Judah. Despite its militant consciousness, the religion preaches love and nonviolence, and adherents live by strict biblical codes advocating a way of life in harmony with Old Testament traditions. Some Rastas are teetotalers who shun tobacco and keep to a strict diet of vegetarian I-tal food, prepared without salt; others, like the 12 Tribes Rastafari, eat meat and drink beer. Originally from West Africa, the spider Anancy is Jamaica's celebrated trickster folk hero. Check out the patois folk tales of Louise Bennett for the best of his fables. ### A UNIQUE LEXICON One of the 21 tenets of Rastafarianism is the belief that God exists in each person, and that the two are the same. Thus the creed unifies divinity and individuality through the use of personal pronouns that reflect the 'I and I.' 'I' becomes the id or true measure of inner divinity, which places everyone on the same plane. Thus 'I and I' can mean 'we,' 'him and her,' 'you and them.' (The personal pronoun 'me' is seen as a sign of subservience, of acceptance of the self as an 'object.') Rastafarian reasoning sees the English language as a tool in the service of Babylon, designed to 'downpress' the black people. The belief that language itself is biased has led to a whole lexicon laced with cryptic intent and meaning, that has profoundly influenced 'Jamaica talk.' ## Jamaica's Sporting Legacy If anyone can wrest away Bob Marley's mantle as the world's most recognizable Jamaican, it's Usain Bolt, currently the fastest man on the planet, who exploded onto the global stage with a double 100m and 200m gold at the 2008 Beijing Olympics, and did it again four years later in London. Sprinter Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce repeated the golden trick for the women's 100m at the same games. Jamaica is cricket mad, and cricketers like fast bowler Courtney Walsh and batsman Chris Gayle are revered. Jamaica plays nationally as part of the West Indies team, who were quarter-finalists in the 2011 World Cup, but champions in the 2012 World Twenty20. Jamaican cricket's home is Sabina Park in Kingston, which hosts national and international test matches as well as the new Caribbean Premier League (CPL). Football is Jamaica's second sport. It was given a huge boost by the success of the Reggae Boyz – Jamaica's national soccer team – in qualifying for the 1998 World Cup, though they haven't qualified since. Spirited international matches are played at Kingston's National Stadium. Jamaican proverbs are a proud celebration of heritage and dialect. A sample: 'So cow a grow so him nose hole a open.' This roughly translates to 'Live and learn.' ## A Woman's Lot While Jamaican society can appear oppressively macho to outsiders accustomed to dancehall lyrics, women tend to be strong and independent (in 40% of households, a woman is the sole provider). This spirit often translates into the self-assurance so apparent in Portia Simpson-Miller, the current prime minister. Jamaican women attain far higher grades in school and have higher literacy rates than Jamaican men, and middle-class women have attained levels of respect and career performance that are commensurate with their counterparts in North America and Europe. Women also make up about 46% of Jamaica's labor force, although the majority are in extremely low-paying jobs. The darker side of a Jamaican woman's life is the proliferation of sexual violence. According to statistics, one in four women is subject to a forced sexual encounter during the course of her life. While 47% of pregnancies in Jamaica are unplanned, and Jamaica has one of the highest rates of teenage pregnancy in the region, abortion remains illegal except under medical grounds. ### OUR TOP PLAYLISTS ### REGGAE **007 (Shanty Town)** Desmond Decker & the Aces **Picture of Selassie I** Khari Kill **Legalize It** Peter Tosh **One Love** Bob Marley and the Wailers **Cool Rasta** The Heptones **The Harder They Come** Jimmy Cliff **Rivers of Babylon** The Melodians **Pass the Koutchie** The Mighty Diamonds **Funky Kingston** Toots & the Maytals **Is This Love** Bob Marley and the Wailers ### DANCEHALL **Who Am I** Beenie Man **Murder She Wrote** Chaka Demus and Pliers **Sycamore Tree** Lady Saw **Get Busy** Sean Paul **Ting-A-Ling** Shabba Ranks **Under Me Sleng Teng** Wayne Smith **It's a Pity** Tanya Stephens **Ring the Alarm** Tenor Saw **Clarks** Vybz Kartel ft. Popcaan and Gaza Slim **Zungguzungguzeng** Yellowman ## Jamaican Arts ### Literature Through the years Jamaican literature has been haunted by the ghosts of slave history and the ambiguities of Jamaica's relationship to Mother England. Best known, perhaps, is Herbert de Lisser's classic Gothic horror, _White Witch of Rose Hall,_ about the murderous Annie Palmer, the wicked mistress of Rose Hall. The novels of Anthony Winkler are celebrated for the wry eye they cast over Jamaican life, most notably in _The Lunatic_ , _The Duppy_ and _The Family Mansion_. The streets of Kingston are also the setting for the gritty novels of Roger Mais, notably _The Hills Were Joyful Together_ and _Brother Man_. Orlando Patterson's _The Children of Sisyphus_ mines the same tough terrain from a Rastafarian perspective. In recent years, a number of Jamaican female writers have gained notice: they include Christine Craig _(Mint Tea),_ Patricia Powell _(Me Dying Trial),_ Michelle Cliff _(Abeng_ , _Land of Look Behind)_ and Vanessa Spence _(Roads Are Down)_. Current stars on Jamaica's literary scene include Olive Senior _(Dancing Lessons)_ , Garfield Ellis _(For Nothing At All)_ Kei Miller _(The Last Warner Woman)_ , Marlon James _(The Book of Night Women)_ and Diana McCaulay _(Huracan)_. Bridging the gap between literature and performance is the patois-rich genre of dub poetry. Louise Bennett _(Selected Poems)_ and Linton Kwesi Johnson _(My Revolutionary Fren)_ are essential texts. One of the most electrifying voices of Jamaican dub poetry today is that of Mutabaruka. Learn about his work and read his poems at www.mutabaruka.com. ### Film For many, Jamaican cinema begins with cult classic _The Harder They Come_ (1973), starring Jimmy Cliff as a 'rude bwai' in Kingston's ghettoes. _Smile Orange_ (1974) tells the story of Ringo, a hustling waiter at a resort – a theme not irrelevant today. _Rockers_ (1978), another music-propelled, socially poignant fable is a Jamaican reworking of _The Bicycle Thief_ featuring a cast of reggae all-stars. _The Lunatic_ (1991), based on the Anthony Winkler novel, is a humorous exploration of the island's sexual taboos. Rick Elgood's 1997 film _Dancehall Queen_ found an international audience for its tale of redemption for a struggling street vendor, who escapes the mean streets of Kingston through dancehall music. Jamaica's highest-grossing film is Chris Browne's 2000 crime drama _Third World Cop,_ in which old friends straddling both sides of the law must come to terms with each other. _Shottas_ (2002) follows in its footsteps, featuring two Kingston criminals trying their luck in the US. _One Love_ (2003) explores Jamaica's social divides against the backdrop of a controversial romance between a Rasta musician and a pastor's daughter. Currently making waves on the Jamaican movie scene is director Storm Saulter, whose communal approach to film-making has brought many admirers, most notably for his 2013 movie _Better Mus Come,_ about Kingston's gang troubles in the 1970s, one of the most critically acclaimed films coming out of the Caribbean in the last 10 years. _Jamaica Art_ by Kim Robinson and Petrine Archer Straw is a well-illustrated treatise on the evolution of the island's art scene. ### The Birth of Visual Nationalism British trends and colonial tastes traditionally shaped Jamaican art, but in the 1920s the Jamaican School of local artists began to develop its own style, shaped by realities of Jamaican life. There were two main groups: the painters who were schooled abroad, and island-themed 'intuitives.' Jamaican Independence leader Norman Manley's wife, Edna, an inspired sculptor and advocate for indigenous Jamaican art, became a leading catalyst for change. Through the example of seminal works like _Negro Aroused_ (1935) and _Pocomania_ (1936), which synthesized African and Jamaican archetypes within a deeply personal vision of the national psyche, Manley provided an electrifying example of the potential of Jamaican art. At a grassroots level, Manley organized free art classes and training courses to energize and organize rising talent. This fertile ground gave birth to three of Jamaica's great painters. Self-taught artist John Dunkley was 'discovered' by Manley in his brilliantly decorated Kingston barbershop. His brooding landscapes of sinister tropical foliage, never-ending roads and furtive reptiles and rodents, spoke of a vision that resonated with the historical traumas of the nation. In contrast, Albert Huie produced intricately detailed and beautifully composed works depicting an idyllic dreamscape of rural scenes far removed from the urban strife of his native Kingston. More rooted in his immediate surroundings, David Pottinger's primary interest is in the urban landscape. His portrayals of downtown life reveal the melancholy of poverty while also suggesting the indomitable spirit of life. Leading lights of the contemporary Jamaican visual arts scene currently include the painter Ebony Patterson and the photographer Marvin Bartley. Both have strong links to Kingston's Edna Manley College of Visual and Performing Arts, which remains an important crucible for the country's artistic scene. Good annual events for taking the temperature of Jamaica's visual arts are the Kingston on the Edge festival and the National Gallery of Jamaica's Biennial Art Exhibition. Timothy White's _Catch a Fire_ remains the go-to Bob Marley biography. Pair it with a screening of Kevin Macdonald's superb 2012 feature documentary, _Marley_. ## Music Few places are as defined by their music as Jamaica. Thanks to Bob Marley, reggae is the island soundtrack that went on to conquer the world, helping permanently brand the country and bestow it a global cultural influencer well out of proportion to the island's tiny size. In fact, there's a lot more to Jamaican music than just reggae, as Jamaica's relentlessly busy studios attest. Per capita, Jamaica is the world's most prolific creator of recorded music. Or as the patois proverbs put it, 'We likkle but we talawah.' _We're small, but we're powerful_. ### A Brief History Modern Jamaican music starts with the acoustic folk music of mento. In the early 1960s, this blended with calypso, jazz and R&B to form ska, the country's first popular music form in the early 1960s. This evolved, via the intermediate step of rocksteady, into the bass-heavy reggae of the 1970s, the genre that ultimately swept all before it. Dancehall, a faster and more clubby sound than its predecessors, followed thereafter, and continues to dominate the contemporary music scene today. For all that these styles are distinct, they constantly blend and feed off each other – this syncretism is the true magic of Jamaican music. Carolyn Cooper's _Sound Clash: Jamaican Dancehall Culture at Large_ is a key text for exploring contemporary Jamaica's dominant music form. ### Reggae Roots In his song 'Trench Town,' Bob Marley asked if anything good could ever come from Jamaica's ghettoes. In doing so, he challenged the class-based assumptions of Jamaican society, where minority elite rule over the disenfranchised masses. Of course the answer came in the message of pride and spiritual redemption contained in the music itself, as reggae left the yard to conquer the world, in the process turning Bob Marley into a true global icon. Bob Marley's band, The Wailers, sprang from the ska and rocksteady era of the 1960s. Producers such as Lee 'Scratch' Perry, Clement 'Sir Coxsone' Dodd and King Tubby played a key role in evolving the more spacious new reggae sound, while the resurgence of Rastafarianism that followed Haile Sellassie's 1966 visit to Jamaica inspired the music's soul. Through his signing of The Wailers, Jamaican-born founder of Island Records, Chris Blackwell, helped introduce reggae to an international audience. Reggae is more than just Marley. His original band-mates Peter Tosh and Bunny Wailer both became major stars, joining a pantheon that runs from Desmond Dekker and Dennis Brown to Burning Spear and Gregory Isaacs. While dancehall has since taken over as Jamaica's most popular domestic music, in recent years there has been something of a roots reggae revival, with artists like Chronixx, Proteje and Jah9 bringing back some rasta consciousness to rejuvenate the genre for the new century. The gorgeous coffee table book, _Reggae Explosion: The Story of Jamaican Music,_ by Chris Salewcz and Adrian Boot, traces the evolution of Jamaican music in words and (amazing) photographs. ### Dancehall Culture The modern sound of Jamaica is definitely dancehall: rapid-fire chanting over bass-heavy beats. It's simplistic to just call dancehall Jamaican rap, because the formation of the beats, their structure and the nuances of the lyrics all have deep roots in Jamaica's musical past. The new sound sprang up at the close of the 1970s with DJs such as Yellowman and Lone Ranger and Josey Wales, who grabbed the mic, and powered the high-energy rhythms through the advent of faster, more digital beats. This was a period of turmoil in Jamaica, and the music reacted by moving away from political consciousness towards a more hedonistic vibe. The scene centered on the sound systems and 'sound clashes' between DJs, dueling with custom records to win the crowd's favor and boost their reputation. By the 1990s, the success of artists like Shabba Ranks turned dancehall global, but stars like Buju Banton, Beenie Man, Bounty Killer and Sizzla continue to be criticized for lyrics celebrating violence and homophobia. An infamous feud between 'World Boss' Vybz Kartel and Mavado spilled onto the street before a publicly brokered 'peace deal', but in 2014, Vybz Kartel was convicted of the murder of an associate. Criticism of dancehall's more outlandish facets is a staple of the Jamaican press, but for all this, dancehall remains in rude health – Sean Paul and Konshens have long ascended into international stardom, while acts such as Cham and Tommy Lee ride the riddims at home. Listen to the story of Jamaican music, from ska and rocksteady to roots reggae and dancehall, with _Reggae Golden Jubilee,_ a 100-track retrospective released in 2012 to celebrate 50 years of independence, compiled by ex–prime minister (and record producer) Edward Seaga. ### Experiencing Jamaican Music It's a surprise to some, but there's not much of a live music scene in Jamaica. The sound system rules supreme here; many working musicians often head to the resort hotels to earn a crust playing reggae for package tourists. If you're in Kingston, one of the best venues to catch a band is at Red Bones, which has excellent live music several times a week, but keep your eyes open for posters advertising one-off concerts elsewhere. There are also some excellent reggae festivals, most notably Montego Bay's SumFest every July, and Rebel Salute held every January in St Ann. February is designated 'Reggae Month' in Jamaica (in part to honor Bob Marley's birthday on the 6th) when there's lots of live music to be had, especially in Kingston. If you want to hear dancehall, there are plenty of clubs, but the street parties in Kingston are by far the most vibrant. For the sound systems, the toasting, the street fashion and the dancing, they're hard to beat. Ask locals, especially those working in your hotel or guest house, where you'll find the best parties and promoted events. Don't be scared off by the city's reputation – they're on the whole well-run, community-policed events. Parties run late though – don't even think of arriving before midnight. The Maytals' 1968 song 'Do the Reggay' was one of the first records to use the term 'reggae.' Prior to this the music was known as rocksteady. ### Jamaican Music Glossary Dancehall's iconic dance move is the (female only) dutty wine. Wining involves bending over and a gymnastically rotating posterior and head. The male equivalent is 'daggering' – rough drysex on the dancefloor. Prudes need not apply. # Jamaican Landscapes It's important to note there is a distinction between Jamaica the island and Jamaica the country. The nation is actually an archipelago, with the main island of Jamaica overwhelmingly the dominant land mass. Other small islands in the chain, called cays, are all uninhabited except for some temporary stints by local fishers, include the Port Royal Cays south of Port Royal (such as Lime Cay), the Pedro Banks, an important fishing area 160km to the southwest, and the Morant Cays, which lay off the east coast. ## The Archipelago At 10,991 sq km (roughly equal to the US state of Connecticut, or half the size of Wales), Jamaica is the third-largest island in the Caribbean and the largest of the English-speaking islands. It is one of the Greater Antilles, which make up the westernmost Caribbean islands. 'Mainland' Jamaica is rimmed by a narrow coastal plain, except for the southern broad flatlands. Mountains form the island's spine, rising gradually from the west and culminating in the Blue Mountains in the east, which are capped by Blue Mountain Peak at 2256m. The island is cut by about 120 rivers, many of which are bone dry for much of the year but spring to life after heavy rains, causing great flooding and damage to roads. Coastal mangroves, wetland preserves and montane cloud forests form small specialized ecosystems that contain a wide variety of the island's wildlife. ### TIPS FOR TRAVELERS * Never take 'souvenirs' such as shells, plants or artifacts from historical sites or natural areas. * Keep to the footpaths. When hiking, always follow designated trails. Natural habitats are often quickly eroded, and animals and plants are disturbed by walkers who stray from the beaten path. * Don't touch or stand on coral. Coral is extremely sensitive and is easily killed by snorkelers and divers who make contact. Likewise, boaters should never anchor on coral – use mooring buoys. * Try to patronize hotels, tour companies and merchants that act in an environmentally sound manner, based on their waste generation, noise levels, energy consumption and the local culture. * Many local communities derive little benefit from Jamaica's huge tourism revenues. Educate yourself on community tourism and ways you can participate. Use local tour guides wherever possible. * Respect the community. Learn about the customs of the region and support local efforts to preserve the environment and traditional culture. ### Caves Two-thirds of the island's surface is composed of soft, porous limestone (the compressed skeletons of coral, clams and other sea life), in places several miles thick and covered by red-clay soils rich in bauxite (the principal source of aluminum). The constant interplay of water and soft rock makes Jamaica an especially good destination for spelunkers – for more information see Caving. If you're into caving, refer to Alan Fincham's _Jamaica Underground_ , which plumbs the depths of Cockpit Country. ## Animals ### Birds When it comes to sheer variety of color and song, birds are Jamaica's main animal attraction. Over 255 bird species call Jamaica home, 26 of which are endemic, while others are passing through on migration routes to and from North America. Jamaica's national bird is the 'doctor bird' or red-billed streamertail – an indigenous hummingbird with shimmering emerald feathers, a velvety black crown with purple crest, a long bill and curved tail feathers. It's image is reproduced everywhere. In total four of the 16 Caribbean species of hummingbird are represented in Jamaica. Stilt-legged, snowy-white cattle egrets are ubiquitous, as are 'John crows,' or turkey vultures, which are the subject of many proverbs. The _patoo_ is the Jamaican name for the owl, which many islanders regard as a harbinger of death. Jamaica has two species: the screech owl and the endemic brown owl. There are also four endemic species of flycatcher, a woodpecker and many rare species of dove. In the extensive swamps, bird-watchers can spot herons, gallinules and countless other waterfowl. Pelicans can be seen diving for fish, while magnificent frigate birds soar high above the coast. Jamaica is a particularly rewarding destination for bird-watching; for more information see Bird-Watching. Bird-watchers should turn to _Birds of Jamaica: A Photographic Field Guide_ by Audrey Downer and Robert Sutton. James Bond's classic _Birds of the West Indies,_ another reference for serious bird-watchers, was republished as _Peterson Field Guide to Birds of the West Indies_. ### Mammals Jamaica has few mammal species. Small numbers of wild hogs and feral goats still roam isolated wilderness areas, but the only native land mammal is the endangered Jamaican coney (or _hutia_ ), a large brown rodent akin to a guinea pig. Habitat loss now restricts the highly social, nocturnal animal to remote areas of eastern Jamaica. The mongoose is the one you're most likely to see, usually scurrying across the road. It was imported from India in 1872 to rid sugarcane fields of rats. Unfortunately, they proved more interested in feeding on snakes, a natural predator of the rat, and is now considered a destructive pest. ### Amphibians & Reptiles Jamaica harbors plenty of both. The largest are American crocodiles (called 'alligators' in Jamaica), found along the south coast, but also in and around Negril's Great Morass and adjacent rivers. Abundant until big-game hunters appeared around the turn of the century, crocs are now protected. Crocodile river-safaris are big business in Black River. Jamaica has 24 species of lizard, including the Jamaican iguana, which hangs on to survival in the remote backwaters of the Hellshire Hills. Geckos can often be seen hanging on ceilings by their sticky feet. Local superstition shuns geckos, but their presence in your hotel room means fewer bugs. Jamaica has five snake species, none venomous and all endangered thanks mostly to the ravages of the mongoose, which has entirely disposed of a sixth species – the black snake. The largest is the Jamaican boa, or yellow snake – a constrictor (called _nanka_ locally) that can grow 2.5m in length. There are 17 frog and one toad species. Uniquely, none of Jamaica's 14 endemic frog species undergoes a tadpole stage; instead, tiny frogs emerge in adult form directly from eggs. All over Jamaica you'll hear the whistle frog living up to its name. While it makes a big racket, the frog itself is smaller than a grape. ### Insects Jamaica has mosquitoes, bees and wasps, but most bugs are harmless. A brown scarab beetle called the 'newsbug' flies seemingly without control and, when it flies into people, locals consider it a sign of important news to come. Diamond-shaped 'stinky bugs' are exactly that, advertising themselves with an offensive smell. Fireflies (called 'blinkies' and 'peeny-wallies') are also common. Jamaica has 120 butterfly species and countless moth species, of which 21 are endemic. The most spectacular butterfly is the giant swallowtail, _Papilio homerus,_ with a 15cm wingspan. It lives only at higher altitudes in the John Crow Mountains and the eastern extent of the Blue Mountains (and in Cockpit Country in smaller numbers). Those captivated by Jamaica's astonishingly beautiful butterflies should grab a copy of _An Annotated List of Butterflies of Jamaica_ by A Avinoff and N Shoumatoff. ### Marine Life Coral reefs lie along the north shore, where the reef is almost continuous and much of it is within a few hundred meters of shore. Over 700 species of fish zip in and out of the reefs: wrasses, parrotfish, snappers, bonito, kingfish, jewelfish and scores of others. Smaller fry are preyed upon by barracuda, giant groupers and tarpon. Sharks are frequently seen, though most of these are harmless nurse sharks. Further out, the deep water is run by sailfish, marlin and manta rays. Three species of endangered marine turtle – the green, hawksbill and loggerhead – lay eggs at the few remaining undeveloped sandy beaches. About 100 endangered West Indian manatee – a shy, gentle creature once common around the island – survive in Jamaican waters, most numerously in the swamps of Long Bay on the south coast. ## Plants Jamaica is a veritable garden, with some 3582 plant species (including 237 species of orchid and 550 species of fern), of which at least 912 are endemic. Although much of the island has been cultivated for agriculture, there are large stretches, especially in the interior, where the flora has largely been undisturbed since human settlement. Probably the most famous indigenous plant species is pimento (allspice), the base of many Jamaican seasonings. Introduced exotics include bougainvillea, brought from South America via London's Kew Gardens in 1858; ackee, the staple of Jamaican breakfasts, brought from West Africa in 1778; and mangoes, which arrived in 1782 from Mauritius. Breadfruit was introduced in 1793 by Captain Bligh (of 'Mutiny on the Bounty' fame) as a food crop for the slave population. Closer cousins to local plants are cocoa, cashew and cassava, native to Central America and the West Indies. A native pineapple from Jamaica was the progenitor of Hawaii's pineapples (the fruit even appears on the Jamaican coat of arms). Needless to say, ganja (marijuana) is grown beneath tall plants in remote areas to evade the helicopters of the Jamaica Defense Force. The harvest season runs from late August through October. Originally imported to the island by laborers from India, Rastafarians will tell you the plant was first cultivated off the grave of King Solomon in Ethiopia. ### Tree Species The national flower is the dark-blue bloom of the lignum vitae tree, whose timber is much in demand by carvers. The national tree is blue mahoe, which derives its name from the blue-green streaks in its beautiful wood. You'll also want to keep your eyes peeled for the dramatic flowering of the vermilion 'flame of the forest' (also called the 'African tulip tree'). Logwood, introduced to the island in 1715, grows wild in dry areas and produces a dark blue dye. Native species include rosewood, palmetto, mahogany, silk cotton (said to be a habitat for duppies, or ghosts), cedar and ebony; the latter two have been logged to decimation during the past two centuries. Over the last decade, deforestation has also led to the deterioration of more than a third of Jamaica's watersheds. ## National Parks Jamaica's embryonic park system comprises four parks: Blue Mountains-John Crow National Park, Montego Bay Marine Park, Port Antonio Marine Park and Negril Marine Park. The 780-sq-km Blue Mountains-John Crow National Park (Jamaica's largest) includes the biologically diverse forest reserves of the Blue and John Crow mountain ranges. Both marine parks are situated around resort areas and were developed to preserve and manage coral reefs, mangroves and offshore marine resources. There is also a fistful of other wilderness areas with varying degrees of protection, such as the Portland Bight Protected Area. Proposals to turn Cockpit Country into a national park have been met with stiff resistance from the Maroons who live there and fear increased governmental authority will infringe on their hard-won autonomy. The Nature Conservancy (www.nature.org/wherewework/caribbean/jamaica) has been instrumental in protecting the Blue Mountains-John Crow National Park. ### THE MARVELLOUS MANGROVES The spidery mangrove, which grows along the Jamaican coast, is crucially important to coastal preservation, besides functioning as a nursery for countless marine and amphibian species. By acting as a shield between the ocean and the mainland, mangroves maintain the integrity of the Jamaican coast; it is estimated their destruction, due to agriculture, resort development, timber cutting, human settlement and pollution, has resulted in the erosion of up to 80 million tons of topsoil per year. This habitat destruction obviously sets off an ecological chain reaction of disaster; as mangroves die, so too do the nurseries of important fisheries. As a result, the National Environment & Planning Agency (NEPA; www.nepa.gov.jm), in concert with local community organizations, has identified over a dozen areas for mangrove rehabilitation across the country; check the agency's website for more information. ## Environmental Issues Today, the island the Taínos called Xaymaca (or 'Land of Wood and Water') faces significant environmental issues. The aggregation of government agencies into the National Environmental & Planning Agency and its partnering with the University of the West Indies at Mona on research issues, has been a positive step. But in Jamaica, the fact remains that top-down policy enactment can occur very slowly, and the nation's environment is on a tight schedule. In the mid-1990s, Jamaica had the highest rate of deforestation (5% per year) of any country in the world and, although there is now greater awareness of the problem, it is still a threat. Many of Jamaica's endemic wildlife species are endangered, largely due to habitat loss, including the American crocodile, Jamaican boa, Jamaican iguana, coney, green parrot and giant swallowtail butterfly. Bauxite mining – the island's second-most lucrative industry after tourism – is considered to be the single largest cause of deforestation in Jamaica. Bauxite can only be extracted by opencast mining, which requires the wholesale destruction of forests and topsoil. The access roads cut by mining concerns are then used by loggers, coal burners and yam-stick traders to get to trees in and around designated mining areas, extending the deforestation. Local pressure has blocked periodic attempts to open Cockpit Country to bauxite (and limestone) mining. Deforestation has also damaged parts of the Blue Mountains, where farmers felled trees to clear land to grow lucrative coffee plants. As we went to press, environmental groups were fighting a controversial joint Jamaican-Chinese project to develop the reef- and mangrove-rich Portland Bight Protected Area, into a US$1.5 billion transhipment hub. NEPA is entrusted with responsibility for promoting ecological consciousness among Jamaicans and management of the national parks and protected areas under the Protected Areas Resource Conservation Project (PARC). The following organizations are also taking the lead in bringing attention to ecological issues: Cockpit Country (www.cockpitcountry.com) Environmental Foundation of Jamaica ( %960-6744; www.efj.org.jm; 1B Norwood Ave, Kingston 5) Jamaica Conservation & Development Trust ( %960-2848; www.jcdt.org.jm; 29 Dumbarton Ave, Kingston 10) Jamaica Environment Trust ( %960-3693; www.jamentrust.org; 58 Half Way Tree Rd, Kingston 10) Jamaican Caves Organisation (www.jamaicancaves.org) North Jamaica Conservation Association ( %973-4305; http://n-j-c-a.yolasite.com; Runaway Bay) To visit Cockpit Country in an ecologically responsible manner, check out the Southern Trelawny Environmental Agency's website, www.stea.net. # Directory A–Z #### Accommodations #### Children #### Climate #### Customs Regulations #### Electricity #### Embassies & Consulates #### Gay & Lesbian Travelers #### Health #### Internet Access #### Internet Resources #### Legal Matters #### Maps #### Money #### Opening Hours #### Safe Travel #### Telephone #### Time #### Toilets #### Tourist Information #### Travelers with Disabilities #### Visas #### Women Travelers #### Work # Directory A–Z ### Accommodations Low season (summer) is usually mid-April to early December; the high season (winter) is the remainder of the year, when hotel prices increase by 40% or more. All-inclusive packages are usually based on three-day minimum stays. ### SLEEPING PRICE RANGES Unless otherwise stated, the following price ranges refer to a double room in high season with European Plan (room only with bathroom), with the compulsory 6.25% to 15% GCT included in the price. **$** less than US$90 (J$9400) **$$** US$90–200 (J$9400–20,800) **$$$** more than US$200 (J$20,800) #### All-Inclusive Resorts Rates for all-inclusive resorts presented in listings here are guidelines based on unpublicized 'rack' or 'standard' rates. (Note: reviews for all-inclusive options will include a mention of 'all-incl' in the practicalities details where costs are shown.) You will likely spend considerably less depending on the source of booking, season and current specials, which are perpetually publicized. Major all-inclusive resort chains include the following: CouplesALL-INCLUSIVE RESORT (www.couples.com) RiuALL-INCLUSIVE RESORT (www.riu.com) SandalsALL-INCLUSIVE RESORT (www.sandals.com) #### Camping Jamaica is not developed for campers, and it's unsafe to camp in much of the wild. Many budget properties will let you pitch a tent on their lawns for a small fee. Some even rent tents and have shower, toilet and laundry facilities. #### Guest Houses Most guest houses are inexpensive and good places to mix with the locals. Breakfast is often included. Some are homely houses, others are indistinguishable from hotels. #### Villa Rentals Jamaica boasts hundreds of private villas for rent. Rates start as low as US$100 per week for budget units with minimal facilities. More upscale villas begin at about US$750 weekly and can run to US$10,000. Rates fall as much as 30% in summer. A large deposit (usually 25% or more) is required. Try the following: AirbnbVILLAS (www.airbnb.com) House and apartment rental as well as villas. Good for Kingston.᠎ Jamaican Association of Villas & ApartmentsVILLAS (JAVA; %800-845-5276, in North America 773-463-6688; www.villasinjamaica.com; 2706 W Agatite, 2nd Flr, Chicago, IL) Jamaican TreasuresVILLAS ( %in North America 877-446-7188; www.jamaicantreasures.com; 14629 SW 5th St, Pembroke Pines, FL) ### Children All-inclusive resorts cater to families and have an impressive range of amenities for children. Many hotels offer free accommodations or reduced rates for young children in their parents' room; many provide a babysitter/nanny with advance notice. Increasingly, resorts and upscale hotels offer free childcare centers. It's a good idea to prearrange necessities such as cribs, babysitters, cots and baby food at hotels other than family resorts. Many car-rental agencies in Jamaica do not offer safety seats. Negril, Ocho Rios and Montego Bay are perhaps the best towns for children, each replete with kid-friendly attractions and activities, most notably Dunn's River Falls (outside Ocho Rios), Kool Runnings Water Park (Negril), Aquasol Theme Park (Montego Bay) and horseback riding (all three). Some vaccines are not approved for use in children and pregnant women, so check with your doctor before traveling. Be particularly careful not to drink tap water or consume any questionable food or beverage; hand-sanitizer gel is recommended (and widely available in Jamaica). Breastfeeding in public is somewhat taboo but not illegal. Lonely Planet's _Travel with Children_ gives you the lowdown on preparing for family travel. ### Climate Coastal temperatures are consistently warm, and while temperatures fall steadily with increasing altitude, even in the Blue Mountains the thermometer averages 18°C (64°F) or more. The annual rainfall averages 1980mm (78in), but nationwide there are large variations, with the east coast receiving considerably more rain than elsewhere. Despite wet and dry seasons, rain can fall any time of year and normally comes in short, heavy showers, often followed by sun. Jamaica lies in the Caribbean 'hurricane belt.' Officially the hurricane season lasts from June 1 to November 30; August and September are peak months. ### Customs Regulations APassengers may bring into Jamaica duty-free goods in amounts that they 'might reasonably be expected to carry with them for personal use.' AIt's possible (though highly unlikely) that you may need to show proof that laptop computers and other expensive items (especially electronics) are for personal use; otherwise you may be charged import duty. AFor more information, see Jamaica Customs (www.jacustoms.gov.jm). ### Electricity ### Embassies & Consulates If your country isn't represented in this list, check 'Embassies & High Commissions' in the yellow pages of the Greater Kingston telephone directory. CanadaEMBASSY High Commission ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %926-1500; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/jamaica-jamaique; 3 West Kings House Rd, Kingston); Consulate ( %952-6198; 29 Gloucester Ave, Montego Bay). French EmbassyEMBASSY ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %946-4000; www.ambafrance-jm-bm.org; 13 Hillcrest Ave, Kingston 6) German EmbassyEMBASSY ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %631-7935; www.kingston.diplo.de; 10 Waterloo Rd, Kingston 10) Italian EmbassyEMBASSY ( %968-8464; 10 Surbiton Rd, Kingston 10) Japanese EmbassyEMBASSY ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %929-7534; www.jamaica.eab-japan.go.jp; NCB Tower, Nth Tower, 6th fl, 2 Oxford Rd, Kingston 5) Netherlands EmbassyEMBASSY ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %926-2026; Victoria Mutual Bldg, 53 Knutsford Blvd, Kingston 5) UK High CommissionEMBASSY ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %936-0700; www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-high-commission-jamaica; 28 Trafalgar Rd, Kingston) USEMBASSY Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %702-6000, after hours 702-6055; http://kingston.usembassy.gov; 142 Old Hope Rd, Kingston); Consulate ( %953-0602, 952-5050; Unit EU-1, Whitter Village, Ironshore) ### Gay & Lesbian Travelers There is a gay scene in Kingston, but it is an underground affair as Jamaica is a largely homophobic society. Sexual acts between men are prohibited by law and punishable by up to 10 years in prison. Many reggae dancehall lyrics by big-name stars could be classified as anti-gay hate speech. Gay-bashing incidents are almost never prosecuted, with law enforcement in most cases looking the other way. Nonetheless, you shouldn't be put off from visiting the island. In the more heavily touristed areas you'll find more tolerant attitudes, and hotels that welcome gay travelers, including all-inclusives. Publicly, though, discretion is important and open displays of affection should be avoided. For more information see 'Homophobia in Jamaica,' Homophobia in Jamaica. Gay Jamaica WatchGAY (http://gayjamaicawatch.blogspot.com) J-FLAGGAY (www.jflag.org) Purple RoofsGAY-FRIENDLY HOTELS (www.purpleroofs.com/caribbean/jamaica.html) Lists specifically LGBT-friendly hotels in Jamaica. ### Health ### WATER Water is generally safe to drink from faucets throughout the island except in the most far-flung rural regions. It is safest, however, to stick with bottled water, which is widely available. It's a good idea to avoid ice, particularly that sold at street stands as 'bellywash,' 'snocones' or 'skyjuice' – shaved-ice cones sweetened with fruit juice. Unless you're certain that the local water is not contaminated, you shouldn't drink it. In Jamaica's backwaters, clean your teeth with purified water rather than tap water. #### Availability & Cost of Health Care Acceptable health care is available in most major cities and larger towns throughout Jamaica, but may be hard to locate in rural areas. Most travelers will find the quality of health care will not be comparable to that in their home country. To find a good local doctor, your best bet is to ask the management of the hotel where you are staying or contact your embassy in Kingston or Montego Bay. Many doctors and hospitals expect payment in cash, regardless of whether you have travel health insurance. If you develop a life-threatening medical problem, you'll probably want to be evacuated to a country with state-of-the-art medical care. Since this may cost tens of thousands of dollars, be sure you have insurance to cover this before you depart. Many pharmacies are well supplied, but important medications may not be consistently available. Be sure to bring along adequate supplies of all prescription drugs. #### No See Ums No see ums, also known as midges, are tiny biting insects that live near water. Females are blood suckers, and while their bites are not painful, they are awfully itchy. No see ums congregate in large swarms near bodies of water, puddles etc; to avoid them, wear insect repellent and skirt around their swarm areas, as the bugs will not fly too far from their 'home' body of water. #### Traveler's Diarrhea Throughout most of Jamaica tap water has been treated and is safe to drink, but in some far-flung rural areas it is safest to avoid it unless it has been boiled, filtered or chemically disinfected (with iodine tablets). Eat fresh fruits or vegetables only if cooked or peeled; be wary of dairy products that might contain unpasteurized milk; and be highly selective when eating food from street vendors. If you develop diarrhea, be sure to drink plenty of fluid, preferably an oral rehydration solution containing lots of salt and sugar. _ABC of Healthy Travel_ by E Walker et al, and _Medicine for the Outdoors_ by Paul S Auerbach, are other valuable resources. #### Internet Resources **lonelyplanet.com** A good place to start. MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com) Provides complete travel health recommendations for every country, updated daily, at no cost. World Health Organization (www.who.int/ith) Publishes a superb book called _International Travel and Health_ , which is revised annually and is available for free online. ### Internet Access Wi-fi is increasingly widespread in Jamaican hotels, but internet access is still restricted in rural areas. Most town libraries now offer internet access (US$1 for 30 minutes), though you may find there's only one or two terminals and waits can be long. Most towns have at least one commercial entity where you can get online. Jamaican businesses aren't very good at maintaining (or even creating) their web presence, so don't rely too heavily on online research before your trip. ### Internet Resources Dancehall ReggaeWEBSITE (www.dancehallreggae.com) The place to go for _the_ latest on the island's music scene. Jamaica GleanerWEBSITE (www.jamaica-gleaner.com) Best news source from the island's most reliable newspaper. Jamaica National Heritage TrustWEBSITE (www.jnht.com) Excellent guide to Jamaica's history and heritage. Jamaica Yellow PagesWEBSITE (www.jamaicayp.com) Handy online version of the Jamaican phone directory. **Lonely Planet** (www.lonelyplanet.com) Succinct summaries on travel in Jamaica, plus the popular Thorn Tree bulletin board, travel news and a complete online store. Visit Jamaica (www.visitjamaica.com) ### Legal Matters Jamaica's drug and drink-driving laws are strictly enforced. Don't expect leniency just because you're a foreigner. Jamaican jails are distinctly unpleasant. If arrested, insist on your right to call your embassy in Kingston to request its assistance. ### Maps The Jamaican Tourist Board (JTB) publishes a _Discover Jamaica_ road map (1:350,000). No topographical details are shown. The best maps are Hildebrandt's _Jamaica_ map (1:300,000) and ITMB Publishing's maps (1:250,000), available online or at travel bookstores. The most accurate maps are the Jamaica Ordnance Survey maps published by the Survey Department ( %922-6630; 23 1/2 Charles St, PO Box 493, Kingston 10). ### Money AThe unit of currency is the Jamaican dollar, the 'jay,' which uses the same symbol as the US dollar ($). Jamaican currency is issued in bank notes of J$50, J$100, J$500, J$1000 and (rarely) J$5000. Prices for hotels and valuable items are usually quoted in US dollars, which are widely accepted. ACommercial banks have branches throughout the island. Those in major towns maintain a foreign-exchange booth. AMost towns have 24-hour ATMs linked to international networks such as Cirrus or Plus. In more remote areas, look for ATMs at gas stations. ATraveler's checks are little used and attract fees for cashing. AMajor credit cards are accepted throughout the island, although local groceries and the like will not be able to process them even in Kingston. #### Tipping A 10% tip is normal in hotels and restaurants. Some restaurants automatically add a 10% to 15% service charge to your bill. Check your bill carefully. Some all-inclusive resorts have a strictly enforced no-tipping policy. Outside Kingston, tourist taxi drivers often ask for tips but it is not necessary; JUTA (Jamaica Union of Travelers Association) route taxis do not expect tips. ### Opening Hours The following are standard hours for Jamaica; exceptions are noted in reviews. Note that the country virtually shuts down on Sunday. **Banks** 9:30am to 4pm Monday to Friday. **Bars** Usually open around midday. Jamaicans tend to go out late. Although some clubs and drinking establishments claim set opening hours, many just stay open until the last customer stumbles out, or the owner decides it's time to call it a night. **Businesses** 8:30am to 4:30pm Monday to Friday. **Restaurants** Breakfast dawn to 11am; lunch noon to 2pm; dinner 5:30pm to 11pm. **Shops** 8am or 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday, to noon or 5pm Saturday, late-night shopping to 9pm Thursday and Friday. ### PRACTICALITIES A **Newspapers** The _Jamaica Gleaner_ is the high-standard newspaper; its rival is the _Jamaica Observer_. A **TV & Radio** There are 30 radio stations and seven TV channels; most hotels have satellite TV. A **Measurements** Metric and imperial measurements are both used. Distances are measured in meters and kilometers, and gas in liters, but coffee (and ganja) is most often sold by the pound. A **Smoking** In 2013, smoking in public places (including bars and restaurants) was banned. ### Safe Travel The Jamaica Tourist Board publishes a pocket-size pamphlet, _Helpful Hints for Your Vacation,_ containing concise tips for safer travel. You can also call the hotline for non-emergency assistance. ### GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE British Foreign & Commonwealth OfficeTRAVEL ADVISORIES ( %0845-850-2829; www.fco.gov.uk; Travel Advice Unit, Consular Division, Foreign & Commonwealth Office, 1 Palace St, London) US State DepartmentTRAVEL ADVISORIES ( %202-663-1225; www.travel.state.gov) US State Department publishes travel advisories that advise US citizens of trouble spots. #### Crime In 1978, The Clash sang 'I'd stay an' be a tourist but I can't take the gunplay,' in _Safe European Home,_ about their trip to Jamaica during the height of its political violence. Attitudes towards safe travel to the country sometimes seem barely to have moved on since. Jamaica has the highest murder rate in the Caribbean, although recent statistics show this decreasing. While areas like Spanish Town and some parts of Kingston are best avoided due to gang trouble, crimes against tourists have also dropped greatly, and the overwhelming majority of visitors enjoy their vacations without incident. Travel advice is common sense: keep hotel doors and windows locked at night, and lock car doors from the inside while driving. Don't open your hotel door to anyone who can't prove their identity. If you're renting an out-of-the-way private villa or cottage, check in advance to establish whether security is provided. Carry as little cash as you need when away from your hotel. Keep the rest in a hotel safe, and don't flash your valuables (particularly smartphones). Finally, while taking care to be sensible, it's important not to get too hung up about Jamaica's reputation. Many travelers fear the worst and avoid the country; those who do make it here are far more likely to come away with positive impressions than horror stories. #### Drugs Ganja (marijuana) is everywhere in Jamaica and you're almost certain to be approached by hustlers selling drugs. Cocaine is also widely available (Jamaica is a major trans-shipment point for the Colombia–US route), along with hallucinogenic wild mushrooms. The globalisation of the drugs trade has undoubtedly helped fuel gang violence in Jamaica. Despite their ubiquity and cultural eminence, drugs can be strictly illegal and penalties are severe. Roadblocks and random searches of cars, undertaken by well-armed police in combat gear, have been common. Professionalism is never guaranteed, and 'dash' – extortion – is often extracted to boost wages. Drug checks at airports can be particularly strict. However, in June 2014 Jamaica's justice minister announced that the government was going to reform its drug laws, with possession of less than 57 grams (2 ounces) of ganja becoming a non-arrestable, ticketable infraction. The drug would also be decriminalised for religious, scientific and medical reasons. The changes were expected to be approved by parliament in September 2014. Check the situation before you travel. ### BAD TRIP? While some travelers are keen to seek ganja out, even those wanting to avoid it are unlikely to get through their trip without at least a whiff of secondhand smoke. You'll undoubtedly be approached by people offering to sell you ganja, whether a 'nudge wink' hustler, or a vendor at a dancehall street party openly selling it alongside candies and rum. If you want to smoke, we recommend doing so discreetly, at your hotel. Some local strains are particularly strong, and tourists have reported suffering harmful side effects from ganja, especially from ganja cakes. While we've heard rumors of winery-style 'tasting' tours to ganja plantations, if you're hiking in the Jamaican back country and come across a field of ganja, get out of there. At best, you've found someone's personal home-grown plot. Jamaicans are fiercely protective of these secret spots and there's a good chance they will loudly (and perhaps aggressively) demand you leave the area. At worst, you'll have found plants grown by gangsters – and the repercussions of this situation cannot be overstated. #### Harassment Usually the traveler's biggest problem is the vast army of hustlers (mostly male) who harass visitors, notably in and around major tourist centers. A hustler is someone who makes a living by seizing opportunities, and the biggest opportunity in Jamaica is you. Be polite but firm in repressing unwanted advances; never ignore them, which is taken as an insult. Aggressive persistence is the key to their success and trying to shake them off can be a wearying process. Hustlers often persist in the hope that you'll pay just to be rid of them. Try pretending to be a tourist from a non-English-speaking country (few Jamaicans speak Croatian). If harassment continues, seek the assistance of a tourist police officer or the local constabulary. ### Telephone Jamaica's country code is [tel] 876. To call Jamaica from the US, dial [tel] 1-876 + the seven-digit local number. From elsewhere, dial your country's international dialing code, then [tel] 876 and the local number. For calls within the same parish in Jamaica, just dial the local number. Between parishes, dial 1 + the local number. We have included only the seven-digit local number in Jamaica listings. #### Cell Phones You can bring your own cellular phone into Jamaica (GSM or CDMA). Be aware of hefty roaming charges. If your phone is unlocked buy a local SIM card (around US$20 including credit) from one of the two local cellphone operators, Digicel ( %888-344-4235; www.digiceljamaica.com) or Lime ( %888-225-5295; www.timeforlime.com.jm), or you can buy a cheap handset. You'll need to bring ID to buy either. Prepaid top-up cards are sold in denominations from JS$50 to J$1000, and you'll find them at many gas stations and grocery stores. ### Time In fall (autumn) and winter, Jamaican time is five hours behind Greenwich Mean Time, and the same as in New York (Eastern Standard Time). Jamaica does not adjust for daylight saving time. Hence, from April to October, it is six hours behind London and one hour behind New York. ### Toilets There are few public toilets, and those that do exist are best avoided. Most restaurants have restrooms, but many require you to make a purchase before you can use them. ### Tourist Information The Jamaica Tourist Board (JTB; www.visitjamaica.com) has offices in key cities around the world. You can request maps and literature, including hotel brochures, but they do not serve as reservation agencies. ### Travelers with Disabilities Very few allowances have been made in Jamaica for travelers with disabilities. Some useful resources: Council for Persons with DisabilitiesDISABLED TRAVELERS ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %922-0585; www.mlss.gov.jm; 4 Ellesmere Rd, Kingston 5) Disabled Peoples' InternationalDISABLED TRAVELERS ( %268-461-1273; www.dpinorthamericacaribbean.org; PO Box W1529, Potters Main Rd, St John's, Antigua) ### Visas For stays of six months or less, no visas are required for citizens of the EU, the US, Commonwealth countries, Mexico, Japan and Israel. Nationals of Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Greece and Japan don't need a visa for stays of up to 90 days. All other nationals require visas (nationals of most countries can obtain a visa on arrival, provided they are holding valid onward or return tickets and evidence of sufficient funds). ### Women Travelers Many Jamaican men display behavior and attitudes that might shock visiting women, often expressing disdain for the notion of female equality or women's rights. Despite this, women play pivotal roles in Jamaican society. If you're single, it may be assumed you're on the island seeking a 'likkle love beneat' de palms.' Protests to the contrary will likely be met with wearying attempts to get you to change your mind. If you go along with the flirting, your innocent acceptance will be taken as a sign of acquiescence. Never beat about the bush out of fear of hurting the man's feelings. Rape is not uncommon in Jamaica and occasionally involves female tourists. Women traveling alone may reduce unwanted attention by dressing modestly when away from the beach. Women should avoid walking alone at night and otherwise traveling alone in remote areas. ### Work Visitors are admitted to Jamaica on the condition that they 'not engage in any form of employment on the island.' Professionals can obtain work permits if sponsored by a Jamaican company, but casual work is very difficult to obtain. # Transportation #### Entering the Country #### Air #### Sea #### Air #### Bicycle #### Bus & Public Transportation #### Car & Motorcycle #### Hitchhiking #### Local Transportation # Transportation ## Getting There & Away ### Entering the Country Expect a wait in the immigration halls at the airports in Kingston and Montego Bay. There are often only two or three immigration officers on hand to process the planeloads of passengers, and often multiple flights land within minutes of each other, increasing the burden on officials. #### Passport Passports valid for at least six months from the date of entry are required for all visits to Jamaica. ### Air #### Airports & Airlines Jamaica's international airports are in Montego Bay and Kingston. For flight arrival and departure information, call the airports, visit their websites or call the airline directly. Jamaica is well served by international carriers for cities across North America and Europe, as well as two national carriers and a regional Caribbean airline. Donald Sangster International AirportAIRPORT (MBJ; GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-3124; www.mbjairport.com) The majority of international visitors arrive at Sangster, 3km north of Montego Bay. There's a Jamaica Tourist Board (JTB) information booth in the arrivals hall and a 24-hour money-exchange bureau immediately beyond immigration. There is also a transportation information counter plus desks representing tour companies, hotels and rental cars immediately as you exit customs, as well as a booth for taxis. The adjacent terminal serves domestic flights. The terminals aren't linked by walkways but there are connecting shuttles. Norman Manley International AirportAIRPORT (KIN; GOOGLE MAP ) ; %924-8452; www.nmia.aero) Around 11km southeast of downtown Kingston, Manley also handles international flights. There's a JTB desk in the arrivals hall, and a money-exchange bureau before customs. As you exit there's a bank, car rental booths and a booking station for official taxis. Air JamaicaAIRLINE ( %922-3460; www.airjamaica.com) Kingston ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %888-359-2475; www.airjamaica.com; 4 St Lucia Ave); Montego Bay Caribbean AirlinesAIRLINE ( %744-2225; www.caribbean-airlines.com) Kingston ( %800-744-2225; www.caribbean-airlines.com; 7 Trafalgar Rd, Kingston) Fly JamaicaAIRLINE ( %656-9832; www.fly-jamaica.com) ### Sea Jamaica is a popular destination on the cruise roster, mainly for passenger liners but also for private yachts. Arrival by freighter is another option. For maps and charts of the Caribbean, contact Bluewater Books & Charts ( %800-942-2583; www.bluewaterweb.com). The National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration ( %888-990-6622; www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov) sells US government charts. #### Cruise Ship More than 800,000 cruise-ship passengers sail to Jamaica annually, making it one of the world's biggest cruise-ship destinations. Most ships hit four or five ports, sometimes spending a night, other times only a few hours. The typical cruise-ship holiday is the ultimate package tour. While the majority of mainstream cruises take in fine scenery along the way, the time spent on the islands is generally limited and the opportunities to experience a sense of island life are more restricted. Port visits are usually one-day stopovers at either Ocho Rios, Montego Bay or Falmouth. ### OFF THE BOAT While cruise lines' optional land tours are conveniently packaged to take in many of the island's sightseeing highlights, they also move quickly and tend to shield visitors from interaction with locals. In addition, a fair percentage of the money paid for these tours stays with the organizers rather than going into the local economy. If you venture out on your own, you're likely to enjoy a richer cultural experience. If you want to tour the island, consider hiring a local taxi driver, who will likely shed light on local issues and give you a more colorful tour. Wander the streets of the main town, poke into little shops, eat at local restaurants and buy mementos from street vendors, or veer off the beaten track. Visit small businesses and chat with the owners, buy local rums and other souvenirs in small shops instead of on board – you'll help fuel the local economy (and save money in the process). #### Private Yacht Many yachties make the trip to Jamaica from North America. Upon arrival in Jamaica, you _must_ clear customs and immigration at Montego Bay, Kingston, Ocho Rios or Port Antonio. In addition, you'll need to clear customs at _each_ port of call. The main ports for yachts: Errol Flynn Marina Montego Bay Yacht Club Royal Jamaican Yacht Club ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ; %924-8685; www.rjyc.org.jm; Norman Manley Dr, Kingston, GPS N 17.940939°, W -76.764939°) ## Getting Around ### Air There are four domestic airports: Tinson Pen Aerodrome ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; Marcus Garvey Dr) in Kingston, Ian Fleming International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %975-3101), formerly Boscobel Aerodrome, near Ocho Rios, Negril Aerodrome ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %957-5016) and Ken Jones Aerodrome ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %913-3173) at Port Antonio. Montego Bay's Donald Sangster International Airport has a domestic terminal adjacent to the international terminal. It's a bit of a walk – Air Jamaica Express provides a shuttle. In Kingston, most domestic flights use Tinson Pen, 3km west of downtown, but it's a 40-minute ride to the domestic airstrip from Norman Manley International Airport. #### Airlines in Jamaica Jamaica's small size makes domestic flights largely redundant, but charters are available with TimAir ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %952-2516; www.timair.net; Domestic terminal, Donald Sangster International Airport) (ridiculously expensive) charter flights between its hub in Montego Bay and Kingston, Negril, Ocho Rios and Port Antonio. Rates start at around US$320 for two passengers; fares go up or down for fewer or more passengers. #### Helicopter You can charter your own helicopter for transportation or for personalized tours from Jamaica Customised Vacations & Tours ( %979-2021; www.jcvtt.com; 19 Austin Ave, Mt Salem, Montego Bay; tours per person from US$460). Tours depart from Montego Bay, Negril and Ocho Rios. ### Bicycle Mountain bikes and 'beach cruisers' (bikes with fat tires, suitable for riding on sand) can be rented at most major resorts (US$10 to US$30 per day). Road conditions can be poor when off the main highways, and Jamaican drivers are not considerate to bicyclists. For serious touring, bring your own mountain or multipurpose bike. ### Bus & Public Transportation Traveling by public transportation is a great way to explore Jamaica. An extensive transportation network links virtually every village and comprises several options that range from standard public buses to private taxis, with minibuses and route taxis in between. For the adventurous traveler who doesn't mind getting up close and personal with fellow passengers without the comfort of air-conditioning, and is unfazed by the wild manoeuvres of the drivers, this is the cheapest way to get around Jamaica. There is usually no set timetable – buses leave when the driver considers them full – and passengers are crammed in with little regard for comfort. Taxis and buses tend to fill quickly early in the morning (before 8am) and around 5pm as people depart for work or home. There are fewer public transport options on Sunday. Public buses, minibuses and route taxis depart from and arrive at each town's transportation station, which is usually near the main market. Locals can direct you to the appropriate vehicle, which should have its destination marked above the front window (for buses) or on its side. Public buses and minibuses are regulated by the Ministry of Transport & Works ( %754-2584; www.mtw.gov.jm; 138 Maxfield Ave, Kingston 10). ### COSTS Taking public transportation is terrifically inexpensive. Buses and minibuses charge in the neighborhood of J$100 per 50km, and route taxis charge about J$150 to J$250 per 50km, with short rides of around 10 minutes costing J$100. As an example of longer routes, at the time of writing, a coaster from Kingston to Port Antonio (two hours) cost J$450. #### Buses Large buses are few and far between in Jamaica due to the narrow twisting roads. Throughout the island there are bus stops at most road intersections along routes, but you can usually flag down a bus anywhere except in major cities. When you want to get off, shout 'One stop!' The conductor will usually echo your request with, 'Let off!' A worthwhile exception is the big comfortable, air-conditioned buses of Knutsford Express ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %971-1822; www.knutsfordexpress.com; 18 Dominica Dr, New Kingston Shopping Center parking lot). Destinations include Kingston, Ocho Rios, Falmouth, Montego Bay, Negril, Savanna-la-Mar, Sant Acruz and Mandeville. Sample fares/times are Kingston–Ocho Rios (J$1600, three hours), Kingston–Montego Bay (J$2450; five hours). Online booking is available, along with student, senior and child fares. #### Minibuses Private minibuses, also known as 'coasters,' have traditionally been the workhorses of Jamaica's regional public transportation system. All major towns and virtually every village in the country are served. Licensed minibuses display red license plates with the initials PPV (public passenger vehicle) or have a JUTA (Jamaica Union of Travelers Association) insignia. JUTA buses are exclusively for tourists. Public coasters don't run to set timetables, but depart their point of origin when they're full. They're often overflowing, and the drivers seem to have death wishes. #### Route Taxis These communal taxis are the most universal mode of public transportation, reaching every part of the country. They operate like minibuses, picking up as many people as they can squeeze in along their specified routes. They're very convenient and are a cheap and easy way of getting around the island. Simply pick them up at their terminal in town (they go when full), or flag them down on the road and tell the drive where you want to get off. If you get in an empty taxi – particularly at the taxi station – you might get asked if you want to hire the vehicle outright, so be clear if you just want to pay the regular fare instead of a charter. Most route taxis are white Toyota Corolla station wagons marked by their red license plates. They should have 'Route Taxi' marked on the front door, and they are not to be confused with similar licensed taxis, which charge more. Avoid any taxi that lacks the red license plate. ### Car & Motorcycle #### Automobile Associations There is no national roadside organization to phone when you have car trouble. Most car-rental agencies have a 24-hour service number in case of breakdowns and other emergencies. If you do break down, use a local mechanic only for minor work; otherwise the car-rental company may balk at reimbursing you for work it hasn't authorized. If you can't find a phone or repair service, seek police assistance. _Never_ give your keys to strangers. #### Driver's License To drive in Jamaica, you must have a valid International Driver's License (IDL) or a current license for your home country or state, valid for at least six months. #### Fuel & Spare Parts Many gas stations close at 7pm or so. In rural areas, stations are usually closed on Sunday. At the time of writing, gasoline cost about US$1.20/J$125 per liter. Most gas stations only accept cash for payment, although a growing number of modern gas stations in larger towns accept credit cards. #### Rental Several major international car-rental companies operate in Jamaica, along with dozens of local firms. Car-rental agencies are listed in the local yellow pages. ##### International Rental Companies Avis (www.avis.com.jm) Donald Sangster International Airport; Norman Manley International Airport ( %924-8542; www.avis.com.jm; Norman Manley International Airport) Budget (www.budgetjamaica.com) Donald Sangster International Airport ( %952-3838; www.budgetjamaica.com; Donald Sangster International Airport); Norman Manley International Airport ( %924-8762; www.budgetjamaica.com; Norman Manley International Airport); Ocho Rios HertzCAR RENTAL (www.hertz.com) Donald Sangster International Airport ( %979-0438; www.hertz.com; Donald Sangster International Airport); Norman Manley International Airport ( %924-8028; www.hertz.com; Norman Manley International Airport) Jamaica Airport Car RentalCAR RENTAL (www.jamaicaairportcarrental.com) Clearing house on local car rentals. ThriftyCAR RENTAL ( %952-1126; www.thrifty.com; Donald Sangster International Airport) ##### Domestic Rental Companies Local rental agencies often provide better daily rates than the international chains, but cars are sometimes road-worn. Reputable agencies include the following: Beaumont Car RentalsCAR RENTAL (www.beaumont-car-rental.com) Kingston ( %926-0311; 56C Brentford Rd); Montego Bay ( %971-8476; www.beaumont-car-rental.com; 34 Queens Dr) Caribbean Car RentalsCAR RENTAL ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %974-2513, in North America 877-801-6797, in UK 0800-917-9904; www.caribbeancarrentals.net; 31 Hope Rd, Kingston) Island Car RentalsCAR RENTAL (www.islandcarrentals.com) Donald Sangster International Airport ( %952-7225; www.islandcarrentals.com; Donald Sangster International Airport); Kingston ( GOOGLE MAP ) ; %926-8012; www.islandcarrentals.com; 17 Antigua Ave); Norman Manley International Airport; North America ( %866-978-5335; www.islandcarrentals.com) ##### Costs High-season rates begin at about US$45 (J$4000) per day and can run as high as US$150 (J$12,700) or more, depending on the vehicle. Cheaper rates apply in the low season. Some companies include unlimited distance, while others set a limit and charge a fee for excess kilometers driven. Most firms require a deposit of at least US$500 (J$40,000), but will accept a credit-card imprint. Keep copies of all your paperwork. Renters must be 21 years old (some companies will rent only to people aged 25 or older). ##### Reserving You can reserve a car upon arrival, but in the high season be sure to make your reservation in advance. Reconfirm before your arrive. Before signing, go over the vehicle with a fine-tooth comb to identify any dents and scratches. Make a note of each one before you drive away. You're likely to be charged for the slightest mark that wasn't noted before. Don't forget to check the cigarette lighter and interior switches, which are often missing. ##### What Kind of Car Most of the companies rent out modern Japanese sedans. A big car can be a liability on Jamaica's narrow, winding roads. Some companies also rent 4WD vehicles, which are highly recommended if you intend to do _any_ driving away from main roads. Stick shift is preferable because frequent and sudden gear changes are required when potholes and kamikaze chickens appear out of nowhere. Remember that you'll be changing gears with your _left_ hand. If this is new to you, you'll soon get the hang of it. ##### Insurance Check in advance whether your current insurance or credit card covers you for driving while abroad. All rental companies will recommend damage-waiver insurance, which limits your liability in the event of an accident or damage. #### Road Conditions Jamaica's roads run the gamut from modern multilane highways to barely passable tracks. You can expect any road with the designation 'A' to be in fairly good condition. 'B' roads are generally much more narrow and often badly potholed, but still passable in the average rental car. Minor roads, particularly those in the Blue Mountains and Cockpit Country, can be hellish. If you plan to drive off the major routes, it's essential to have a stalwart 4WD. Signage on main roads is good, but directional signs are few and far between as soon as you leave them. Many B roads are not shown on maps. And what may appear on a map to be a 30-minute journey may take several hours. More often than not there are no signs to indicate sharp curves, steep ascents or work in progress. In addition roads are often poorly lit at night, if at all. #### Road Hazards Jamaicans undergo a psychological mind flip when they get behind the wheel, shifting from laid-back folks who rarely rush anything to some of the world's rudest and most dangerously aggressive drivers. Cars race through towns and play chicken with one another with daredevil folly. Use extreme caution and drive defensively, especially at night when you should be prepared to meet oncoming cars that are either without lights or blinding you with high beams (there's never a middle ground for some reason). Use your horn liberally, especially when approaching blind corners. #### Road Rules AAlways drive on the left. AJamaica has a compulsory seatbelt law. ASpeed limits range from 50km/h to 80km/h and vary from place to place across the island. ### Hitchhiking Hitchhiking is common enough among Jamaicans but, because public transportation is absurdly cheap, few tourists stick out their thumbs. Hitchhiking is never entirely safe in any country in the world and we don't recommend it, especially in Jamaica where there are a lot of bad men looking to take advantage of naive tourists. Travelers who decide to hitchhike should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. If you choose to take that risk, you will be safer if you travel in pairs and let someone know where you are planning to go. ### Local Transportation #### Boat A new tourist ferry between Ocho Rios, Montego Bay and Negril had been announced at the time of research, with services expected to commence by mid-2015. #### Buses Kingston's municipal bus system (Jamaica Urban Transport Co Ltd; %749-3196; fares J$100; h5am-10pm) operates a fleet of Mercedes-Benz and Volvo buses. Buses stop only at official stops. Fares are J$100, but students, children, disabled passengers and pensioners pay half fare. #### Motor Scooter & Motorcycle Dozens of companies hire motorcycles and scooters; they're available at any resort town. These companies are far more lax than the car-rental companies; you may not even have to show your driver's license. If you are not an experienced motorcycle driver, it might be better to rent a scooter, which is far easier to handle. Scooters cost about US$35 to US$50 (J$3000 to J$4000) per day and motorcycles about US$45 to US$60 (J$4000 to J$5000) per day; note that deposits can be high. Road conditions in Jamaica are hazardous. Always wear a helmet. #### Taxi Licensed taxis – called 'contract carriages' – have red PPV license plates (those without such plates are unlicensed). They're expensive, but affordable if you share the cost with other passengers. Jamaica Union of Travelers Association (JUTA; %957-4620; www.jutatoursjamaica.com) operates island-wide and is geared almost exclusively to the tourist business. Other taxicab companies are listed in the yellow pages. The Transport Authority has established fixed rates according to distance (different rates apply for locals and tourists, who pay more). Licensed cabs should have these posted inside. Taxis are also supposed to have meters, but many don't use them. # Behind the Scenes ### SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don't want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. ## Author Thanks #### Paul Clammer Bless up to those who were great help on the road: David 'Scotty' Scott (Reggae Hostel), Karen Hutchinson (Jamaica Cultural Enterprises), Annie Paul (University of the West Indies), Karin Wilson Edmonds (Yard Edge), Christopher Edmonds (Red Selecter), Josh Chamberlain (Alpha Boys), Nate (driver-extraordinaire in Ocho Rios), Carla Gullotta (Drapers San Guest House) Leonard Welsh (Reach Falls) and staff at the Jamaica Conservation & Development Trust. Thanks also to Erin MacLeod for remote input, and my co-author Brendan Sainsbury: I owe you both a Red Stripe or three. #### Brendan Sainsbury Thanks to Garth, Leroy and Chucky for their rally-driving skills; to Sue in Negril for her recommendations and insights; all the ladies at the wonderful Falmouth Heritage Walks; Tony at Time & Place; Stefan at the Jamaican Caves Organisation; and all my Jamaican companions on the arduous Troy–Windsor hike. Special thanks to my wife Liz and eight-year-old son Kieran for their company in MoBay and Negril. ## Acknowledgments Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) 'Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification', Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44. Cover photograph: Dunn's River Falls, Ocho Rios; Franz Marc Frel/Alamy © ## This Book This 7th edition of Lonely Planet's _Jamaica_ guidebook was researched and written by Paul Clammer and Brendan Sainsbury. The previous two editions were written by Anna Kaminski, Adam Karlin and Richard Kloss. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet's Oakland office, and produced by the following: **Commissioning Editors** Catherine Craddock-Carrillo, Kathleen Munnelly **Destination Editor** Matt Phillips **Product Editor** Amanda Williamson **Senior Cartographer** David Kemp **Book Designer** Clara Monitto **Assisting Editors** Katie Connolly, Bruce Evans, Rosie Nicholson, Erin Richards **Assisting Cartographe** r Mark Griffiths **Cover Researcher** Naomi Parker **Thanks to** Sasha Baskett, Brendan Dempsey, Fredrik Divall, David Marty, Claire Naylor, Nikta Nilchian, Karyn Noble, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson, Tracy Whitmey, Dean Wray **Ebook thanks to** Anita Banh, Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Chris Tsismetzis, Glenn Van der Knijff, Juan Winata. ### Our Story A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that's all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, _Across Asia on the Cheap_. Within a week they'd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony's belief that 'a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse'. # Our Writers ###### Paul Clammer Coordinating Author; Kingston, Blue Mountains & Southeast Coast; Ocho Rios, Port Antonio & North Coast Paul Clammer has contributed to more than 25 Lonely Planet guidebooks and worked as a tour guide in countries from Turkey to Morocco. In a previous life he may even have been a molecular biologist. Having spent a year living in post-earthquake Port-au-Prince, Haiti, Jamaica was always high on his travel list. One of the most important lessons he learned on this research trip was that if you stay out until 4am drinking rum at a dancehall street party in a Kingston ghetto, don't expect to get too many hotel reviews done the next day. ###### Brendan Sainsbury Montego Bay & Northwest Coast; Negril & West Coast; South Coast & Central Highlands Originally from Hampshire, England, Brendan grew up appreciating Jamaica from his safe European home; coupling a teenage penchant for punk-reggae with a lifelong love of cricket. His curiosity was further piqued while living in London's quintessential Jamaican district, Brixton, during the 1990s. When Lonely Planet came knocking, Brendan jumped at the chance to track 90 miles south from his customary haunt, Cuba to sample Negril's sunsets and Treasure Beach's beautiful languor. He has since developed a healthy appetite for Red Stripe beer, Blue Mountain coffee and saying the words 'yah mon!' at the end of every sentence. **Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd** ABN 36 005 607 983 7 edition - September 2014 ISBN 9781743602294 © Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
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#ifndef _ManipulationEditor_h_ #define _ManipulationEditor_h_ /* ManipulationEditor.h * * Copyright (C) 1992-2005,2007,2009-2013,2015,2016,2018,2020 Paul Boersma * * This code is free software; you can redistribute it and/or modify * it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by * the Free Software Foundation; either version 2 of the License, or (at * your option) any later version. * * This code is distributed in the hope that it will be useful, but * WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of * MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. * See the GNU General Public License for more details. * * You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License * along with this work. If not, see <http://www.gnu.org/licenses/>. */ #include "FunctionEditor.h" #include "PitchTierEditor.h" #include "DurationTierEditor.h" #include "Manipulation.h" #include "ManipulationEditor_enums.h" Thing_define (ManipulationEditor, FunctionEditor) { /* Access inherited attributes by their derived types. */ Manipulation & manipulation() { return * reinterpret_cast <Manipulation *> (& our data); } /* Quick access to internal objects. */ autoSound & sound() { return our manipulation() -> sound; } autoPointProcess & pulses() { return our manipulation() -> pulses; } autoPitchTier & pitch() { return our manipulation() -> pitch; } autoDurationTier & duration() { return our manipulation() -> duration; } autoPointProcess previousPulses; autoPitchTier previousPitch; autoDurationTier previousDuration; double soundmin, soundmax; int synthesisMethod; GuiMenuItem synthPulsesButton, synthPulsesHumButton; GuiMenuItem synthPulsesLpcButton; GuiMenuItem synthPitchButton, synthPitchHumButton; GuiMenuItem synthPulsesPitchButton, synthPulsesPitchHumButton; GuiMenuItem synthOverlapAddNodurButton, synthOverlapAddButton; GuiMenuItem synthPitchLpcButton; autoPitchTierArea pitchTierArea; autoDurationTierArea durationTierArea; struct { double minPeriodic; } pitchTier; Graphics_Viewport inset; void v_createMenus () override; void v_createHelpMenuItems (EditorMenu menu) override; void v_saveData () override; void v_restoreData () override; void v_draw () override; bool v_mouseInWideDataView (GuiDrawingArea_MouseEvent event, double x_world, double y_fraction) override; void v_play (double tmin, double tmax) override; #include "ManipulationEditor_prefs.h" }; autoManipulationEditor ManipulationEditor_create (conststring32 title, Manipulation ana); /* End of file ManipulationEditor.h */ #endif
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May 30, 2016 I Don't Like Etsy, and This is Why... In 2011, in addition to the beginning of the Urban Outfitters case with the Navajo Nation, Etsy was gaining momentum as an important marketplace for handmade goods. And, as an arts advocate, I saw big potential in Etsy for Native American artists to reach patrons and consumers throughout the world. But, the label “Native American” holds great monetary value, and even the average person or shop owner on Etsy realizes this and they misuse these words or tags to name and describe their products to garner more hits when consumers search for handmade Native jewelry or art. This rampant mis-labeling creates a situation where you have thousands of non-Native people selling hundreds of thousands of products that show up when these terms are searched. It drowns out the authentic work made by the people who are ascribing to the Indian Arts and Crafts Act and who depend on it as a way to maintain cultural practices through arts creation as their livelihood. I have informed Etsy shop owners about this act, however, they just adjust the phrase “Native American” to “Native Inspired." In this way, they are within the limits of the law, and they still get their products listed in the search results for Native products. They can continue to sell their work and profit without being completely upfront and honest. Since the 1930s, we have known the positive potential of the arts as a form of economic development in Indian Country. We know that a third of all Native people are either practicing or potential artists, and this is a huge resource that we possess within our own people. However, we are currently being drowned out by big non-Native companies, as well as individual handcraft artists, who are all misusing these terms to further themselves at the expense of Native artists. These culprits include established non-Native businesses (like Pendleton, Ralph Lauren, Urban Outfitters, Minnetonka Moccasins, Forever 21, and basically any brand with a "Navajo" collection that has nothing to do with Native people, and so many others) who have built their empire off of selling "the Native" and selling a culture that was never theirs to sell in the first place. We have tried numerous times to educate consumers about the ethical aspects of this issue, as well as the economic aspects: if our artists can’t make a living off of arts creation, then they are forced to do it less, and artists are our culture bearers. Our artists are the ones that carry our unique and critically important cultural practices from the past and into the future. We live in a digital world, and a significant percentage of sales transactions occur online. The Indian Arts and Crafts Act, as it exists now, needs to be updated to include "Native Inspired" to better protect our artists and Native arts patrons and supporters. We are also asking for your help. What can you do?: 1. Contact the Indian Arts and Crafts Board and ask them to update the Act. 2. If you see a violator on Etsy (or anywhere), report them to the Indian Arts and Crafts Board. 3. Don't be afraid to ask a shop owner if the work is authentic. 4. Continue to support and promote authentic Native American made items. Feel free to share the image above left with your social networks. You can read more about my various critiques of Etsy here: Indian Headdresses Should Not Be on EtsyEtsy Is A Breeding Ground, and Does Etsy Condone Trademark Violation? For the Native American artists who are on Etsy: I have tried to weed through the hundreds of thousands of shops on Etsy and to 'Favorite' the Native-owned ones for anyone who would like assistance in viewing a quick link and supporting this endeavor. You can view these shops at this link. This list is not entirely comprehensive - there is an ongoing cycle of new shops that open and close, but I try very hard to keep it updated. Also, some shop owners are just straight dishonest when it comes to their tribal affiliations; I am not the identity police, and I do not ask for a CIB or other form. I'm not an authority on this matter, I'm merely a Native arts promoter and supporter, and I know I am not alone in wanting to contribute however I can to the continuance of Native American artistic practices and creativity. And sometimes, promoting and supporting means acknowledging and minimizing the challenges that face artists. 1. This is something I brought up t a friend a while back. I freaked when I saw the "Native Inspired" or in one case "Native Approved" like the woman had one friend that okayed her items and won't get into it from there. Another term I hate is "Pawn" as anyone who has been in a hard spot or gone into a pawn in IC knows the conatations behind that and it seems to sell items more and well as the idea of someone suffering and forced to give up a family heirloom to eat or get a relative out of trouble makes them enjoy the piece more. Etsy really doesn't care so long as it is making the money and have opened the doors to both the mass produced Chinese markets to sell there as well as the large animal skin traders from there and Russia. 2. This bothers me a lot, too. I wear vintage, and of course in the vintage community they're is a lot of Native knock off fashion (albeit vintage) going on. I try to showcase authentic Native products and designers in hopes people will catch on to the importance of supporting these communities. (So p.s., if you ever want to collaborate, I'd be glad to do so!) 1. Hi Emileigh! Thank you for the message - I love your site! Keep up the great work! 3. I have seen the same thing on Pinterest. 4. This just illustrates even more the limitations of IACA in actually protecting the work of actual Indian artists. Now we need to make sure that ALL Indian people with verifiable proof of Indian blood and heritage are also covered under IACA, because that's not the case now. 5. This is a tangent, I know, but how would you suggest someone go about listing a product made from regional native species materials without appropriating the search tags that should be leading to products by indigenous artists? I ask because it IS important to me when my crafts are made with California native plant (or animal, when legal) materials that I gathered myself, but I am NOT a Native American artist by any stretch, and would never pretend to be. Is that a thing where I should avoid tagging the word "native" entirely, or just make sure the tag is multi-word "native plant"? 1. I am not of Native heritage, but I am a writer. You could say what you just did above: "I craft my pieces from plant and animal materials that I gather myself, following local laws and guidelines, in California." 6. I've been looking at Etsy a lot lately because I'm planning to sell some stuff there soon. I see people have started labelling non-Native-made dreamcatchers and other native-themed things as "boho" or "bohemian". I wonder how the people of Bohemia feel about crafters appropriating their demonym to appropriate Native stuff without calling it Native. �� 7. okay, I have fought with them on listings and tags to no avail, I have tried to bring up in forums about not using Native AMerican in tags unless it is to no avail, one woman telling me until etsy pulls things she feels entitled [????] this listing is a kicker: don't forget this jewel in her listing: The Native American scene is where it's at and this Boho Necklace has what it takes! I accosted her in the forums with no answer nor is any of these made out of Chinese findings nt in the remotest native items of hers been taken down 8. "Native" is an accurate descriptor for flora or fauna, and I think ALONE (without "Native American") is ok to use, but it depends on the item. And this is just me personally, but if I saw "Native Inspired", that would be an instant clue to me that it wasn't authentic, but rather just in a somewhat similar style. If I was looking for something authentic, I would certainly move on if I saw that. Having said that, if I was looking for a certain pattern style (like for a pillow, let's say), I would type in "Native American" because I honestly don't know any other description I can think of for what I'd be looking for. And therein probably lies one of the issues creating this problem. Because certain patterns, items, and styles have long been associated with Native Americans, most people probably don't know any other way to describe/search for/lead someone to that item. 1. tribal. what is happening is they are manipulating search engines with Native American in their titles and as tags in a manner that throws authentically Native American made under tons of bs listings and the arrogance of doing so. To me the titles should be force changed to tribally inspired so when someone types in Native American they will either pull up items really made by NAs or actual stores run by the same and selling such 9. If you need some ideas on how to write classification essay you should look at this blog article. It probably has everything that you need to know 10. I am also looking at the Etsy not to buy or sell but I like vintage jweleies. I appriciate the people who sell vintage items to supporting these communities. I agree that it is ok to use ALONE. but some people have problems in that too! quick cash loans
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LG joins the virtue-signalling crowd with AI standardisation plug LG is the latest technology company to humbly join the ranks of technology disciples preaching standardisation and, of course, its idea is better than everyone else’s. The Consumer Electronics Show (CES) is in full-swing in Las Vegas, and in the midst of a swathe of technology announcements, LG found some spare time to lecture the room on the importance of a standardised approach to artificial intelligence. That is, of course, before being joined on stage by a partner to talk about how it has developed its own framework, adding to the growing wave of fragmentation. The technology industry is one which elects to stretch the definition of certain words and phrases to such a degree many will wonder whether the dictionaries are thought of as ancient artefacts to be revered but never given attention. In the ‘C’ section, LG President and CTO I.P. Park might find the word ‘contradiction’, and it might offer some insight to read the definition. Looking around the world, the European Commission has put together a group to create an ethics framework to guide the development of AI, Facebook has backed a German initiative called the ‘Institute for Ethics in Artificial Intelligence’, the UK Government has formed its own AI Council, the US has launched the ‘American AI Initiative’, Google created ‘DeepMind Ethics & Society’ and there are countless others. Each of these parties are aiming to develop a standardised approach for the development of AI, weighing up the commercial ambitions of industry alongside privacy issues, the risk of bias and the preservation of fairness in a currently lop-sided digital economy. Each party is attempting to ‘own’ the space, dictate the conditions of the playing field for the benefit of its own interests. This is where self-righteous executives preaching the benefits of standardisation have to be taken with a pinch of salt. The more frameworks which are in place simply heightens the risk of fragmentation. In this case, LG is pursuing its own agenda, implementing a framework to achieve its own aims under the guise of enhancing co-operation and standardisation. These statements reflect badly on LG, but everyone in the industry is doing exactly the same. The European Commission, the White House, Downing Street, Google, Facebook or whoever. These standardisation frameworks are all slightly different because they serve the aims of the puppet masters. From LG’s perspective, AI is the future. This is a company where the heritage is in consumer electronics but is positioning itself to capitalise on the growing interest in ‘intelligence’ and embedded connectivity in everything and anything. LG’s robot vacuum cleaner will not only recognise patterns, but also collect data to learn from previous mistakes, such as getting stuck in gaps and corners. This of course is not a new idea. Embedded ‘intelligence’ and the ability for products to learn and adapt, has been discussed at length for years. LG is perhaps behind the trend, though as the industry is yet to achieve mass market adoption, there is still time for it to catch up. However, whenever someone talks about standardisation, be wary. There is a reason this party is not joining an existing group, it probably does not serve its own ambitions the most effectively. Instead, we are probably likely to see the creation of more groups, alliances, councils, think-tanks and boards. Standardisation is the aim, but fragmentation is looking much more likely. ETSI publishes new spec and reports on 5G tech The European Telecommunications Standards Institute, ETSI, has released new specifications on packet formatting and forwarding, as well as two reports on transport and network slicing respectively. The new specification, called Flexilink, focusing on packet formats and forwarding mechanisms to allow core and access networks to support the new services proposed for 5G. The objective of the new specification is to achieve efficient deterministic packet forwarding in user plane for next generation protocols (NGP). In the conventional IP networks, built on the Internet Protocols defined in the 1980s, every packet carries all the information needed to route it to its destination. This is undergoing fundamental changes with new technologies like Software Defined Networking (SDN) and Control and User Plane Separation (CUPS), where most packets are part of a “flow” such as a TCP session or a video stream. As a result, there is increasingly a separation between the processes of deciding the route packets will follow and of forwarding the packets. “Current IP protocols for core and access networks need to evolve and offer a much better service to mobile traffic than the current TCP/IP-based technology,” said John Grant, chairman of the ETSI Next Generation Protocol Industry Specification Group (ISG). “Our specifications offer solutions that are compatible with both IPv4 and IPv6, providing an upgrade path to the more efficient and responsive system that is needed to support 5G.” The new specification defines two separate services, a “basic” service suitable for traditional statistically multiplexed packet data, and a “guaranteed” service providing the lowest possible latency for continuous media, such as audio, video, tactile internet, or vehicle position. It is worth noting that Flexilink only specifies user plane packet formats and routing mechanisms. Specifications for the control plane to manage flows have already been defined in an earlier NGP document “Packet Routing Technologies” published in 2017. The report “Recommendation for New Transport Technologies” analyses the current transport technologies such as TCP and their limitations, whilst also providing high-level guidance on architectural features required in a transport technology to support the new applications proposed for 5G. The report also includes a framework where there is a clear separation between control and data planes. A proof-of-concept implementation was conducted to experiment the recommended technologies, and to demonstrate that each TCP session can obtain bandwidth guaranteed service or minimum latency guaranteed service. The report states: “With traditional transport technology, for all TCP traffic passes through DIP router, each TCP session can only obtain a fraction of bandwidth. It is related to the total number of TCP sessions and the egress bandwidth (100 M). “With new transport technology, new TCP session (DIP flows) could obtain its expected bandwidth or the minimum latency. And most [sic.] important thing is that the new service is not impacted by the state that router is congested, and this can prove that new service by new transport technology is guaranteed.” Importantly, the PoC experiment showed that the current hardware technology is able to support the proposed new transport technology and provide satisfactory scalability and performance. The report “E2E Network Slicing Reference Framework and Information Model” looks into the design principles behind network slicing. The topic of network slices encompasses the combination of virtualisation, cloud centric, and SDN technologies. But there is gap in normalized resource information flow over a plurality of provider administration planes (or domains). The report aims to “provide a simple manageable and operable network through a common interface while hiding infrastructure complexities. The present document defines how several of those technologies may be used in coordination to offer description and monitoring of services in a network slice.” It describes the high level functions and mechanisms for implementing network slicing, as well as addresses security considerations.
dclm_baseline
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#009a44 Color Information In a RGB color space, hex #009a44 is composed of 0% red, 60.4% green and 26.7% blue. Whereas in a CMYK color space, it is composed of 100% cyan, 0% magenta, 55.8% yellow and 39.6% black. It has a hue angle of 146.5 degrees, a saturation of 100% and a lightness of 30.2%. #009a44 color hex could be obtained by blending #00ff88 with #003500. Closest websafe color is: #009933. • R 0 • G 60 • B 27 RGB color chart • C 100 • M 0 • Y 56 • K 40 CMYK color chart #009a44 color description : Dark cyan - lime green. #009a44 Color Conversion The hexadecimal color #009a44 has RGB values of R:0, G:154, B:68 and CMYK values of C:1, M:0, Y:0.56, K:0.4. Its decimal value is 39492. Hex triplet 009a44 #009a44 RGB Decimal 0, 154, 68 rgb(0,154,68) RGB Percent 0, 60.4, 26.7 rgb(0%,60.4%,26.7%) CMYK 100, 0, 56, 40 HSL 146.5°, 100, 30.2 hsl(146.5,100%,30.2%) HSV (or HSB) 146.5°, 100, 60.4 Web Safe 009933 #009933 CIE-LAB 55.611, -53.736, 35.245 XYZ 12.598, 23.527, 9.346 xyY 0.277, 0.517, 23.527 CIE-LCH 55.611, 64.263, 146.74 CIE-LUV 55.611, -50.455, 50.397 Hunter-Lab 48.505, -38.522, 22.53 Binary 00000000, 10011010, 01000100 Color Schemes with #009a44 Complementary Color Analogous Color Split Complementary Color Triadic Color Tetradic Color Monochromatic Color Alternatives to #009a44 Below, you can see some colors close to #009a44. Having a set of related colors can be useful if you need an inspirational alternative to your original color choice. Similar Colors #009a44 Preview Text with hexadecimal color #009a44 This text has a font color of #009a44. <span style="color:#009a44;">Text here</span> #009a44 background color This paragraph has a background color of #009a44. <p style="background-color:#009a44;">Content here</p> #009a44 border color This element has a border color of #009a44. <div style="border:1px solid #009a44;">Content here</div> CSS codes .text {color:#009a44;} .background {background-color:#009a44;} .border {border:1px solid #009a44;} Shades and Tints of #009a44 Shade Color Variation Tint Color Variation Tones of #009a44 A tone is produced by adding gray to any pure hue. In this case, #47534c is the less saturated color, while #009a44 is the most saturated one. Tone Color Variation Color Blindness Simulator Below, you can see how #009a44 is perceived by people affected by a color vision deficiency. This can be useful if you need to ensure your color combinations are accessible to color-blind users. • #626262 Achromatopsia 0.005% of the population • #4e6d5c Atypical Achromatopsia 0.001% of the population • #998b47 Protanopia 1% of men • #a78557 Deuteranopia 1% of men • #4896a1 Tritanopia 0.001% of the population • #619046 Protanomaly 1% of men, 0.01% of women • #6a8d50 Deuteranomaly 6% of men, 0.4% of women • #2d977f Tritanomaly 0.01% of the population
dclm_baseline
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All categories Am I pregnant. Pregnancy - week by week guide. Your guide to getting pregnant Pregnancy diet Pregnancy to do list Planning a baby shower Child birth Pregnancy exercises Pregnancy month by month Pregnancy ultrasound Everything you need to know about C-section. A caesarean birth or caesarean section means your baby is born via an operation. The surgeon makes an opening in your stomach and then the uterus, and takes the baby out. Why is it done? If you know in advance you are having a caesarean, it's called an elective section. The decision to have a caesarean may be made well in advance or during labour, depending on your particular needs. You might have one because: • Your baby's head is too big, or your pelvis makes it hard for the baby to be born. • You have a very low-lying placenta (called placenta praevia) which blocks your baby's way out. • You have twins or triplets. • There are complications… such as previous surgery on the vagina. • Your baby is in a position, which makes vaginal birth difficult or impossible. You might have an unplanned (known as an emergency) section after you've gone into labour because: • Your baby is suffering from distress (lack of oxygen) and your labour hasn't progressed enough for a forceps or a ventouse delivery. • You have conditions called eclampsia or severe pre-eclampsia, which can be risky for you or the baby. Pre-eclampsia is a serious condition that occurs in pregnancy and can affect both mother and baby. If it develops into eclampsia, the baby may have to be delivered quickly. • You suddenly become ill, or have very high blood pressure. • Your labour is making extremely slow progress. • You’re exhausted. • The baby's having a hard time coming out because of his position, and this wasn't realised before. How do we go about it? • You'll be given an anaesthetic - a spinal or an epidural - that allows you to stay awake without feeling the operation. Or sometimes, they give you a general anaesthetic. • The surgeon first makes a cut in your abdomen and then through the uterus, in a line just above your pubic hair. • You may feel some tugging when the baby is lifted out, sometimes by hand, sometimes with a pair of forceps. • The baby's umbilical cord is cut and clamped, and he's given to you (unless you're under general anaesthetic). • The placenta and membranes come out next, and the doctor then stitches you up. • It takes about 10 minutes to deliver the baby and about 30 minutes to stitch you afterwards. • You may feel very tired for a few days and you may have some pain, especially from wind, just as after any abdominal operation. • Laughing or coughing will feel uncomfortable to you. You'll be offered pain-relief of a sort that's safe to take while breastfeeding. You after a caesarean. In the first days or so, expect to feel tired and to be offered an extra day or two in hospital compared to women who've had a vaginal birth. Here's what else to anticipate: • Discomfort from trapped wind in your tummy. • Tenderness on your tummy, where it's been stitched. • Laughing or coughing may be uncomfortable for you (you'll be shown how to support your scar when you need to laugh or cough to avoid any pressure). • The need for help at first positioning your baby for feeding, so you can hold him comfortably across your body, at your side or lying down. • At first, you may be fitted with a small drain, which collects any blood that might otherwise pool under the scar. This is usually removed in a day or so. You may also have an intravenous drip in your arm, to replace lost fluids. At first, you won't be able to get up to pass urine, and you will either have a catheter in place, or else be helped to use a bedpan. How you'll feel. Sometimes, women feel disappointed if they've had a caesarean birth - especially if it was unexpected. Then, if the baby is fine, they may feel guilty at being disappointed. Your friends and family may think all there is to worry about is the health of the baby and if the baby's okay, why should you be concerned about the way he came into the world? But maybe you feel you have missed out on something - so do talk about these feelings with your partner and with other mothers who have had caesarean births. In time, you may accept the way things just didn't go as planned - like so much else in life. If you don't know why you had a caesarean section, ask; as this will help your feelings and make you feel more positive about it. Pregnancy 02/12/2019 Trimester 1 For at least half of the first trimester, most women don't even realize they are pregnant. Even though it doesn't seem to make sense that we count pregnancy weeks from before conception even happens, it is the only way to estimate.The first trimester is a time of tremendous development. In this series, we will look at each of the 13 weeks in this important trimester and see that however tiny it is, vital foundations are being laid down to optimize your embryos chances of survival. Pregnancy 02/12/2019 Trimester 3 By the third trimester, the baby is having regular periods of rest and activity. It frequently changes the way it is lying, kicks and moves to find its own comfortable positions in the uterus. Your baby's brain and nervous system will be fully formed by now and its lungs are continuing to mature. Pregnancy 22/01/2020 Second trimester pregnancy exercises. In the second trimester, you need to monitor your body’s reaction to exercise, and accordingly increase the duration or intensity of your workouts. Ensure that you discontinue any activity that can throw you off-balance, like gymnastics,...
dclm_baseline
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Declared API means an API declared as such, either in a component.xml file, or by virtue of having a "@since" tag in the JavaDoc. Technically, an API should be both in the component.xml file, and have a @since tag, but if only one of those conditions is true, we assume the omission is the error. Provisional API means a non-API that was documented as, basically, "we'd like this to be API someday, but have not had the time or resources or experience to officially declare it as such". The significance being, that anyone who uses it is accepting the risk of having to adjust to future changes (whereas APIs never change). Internal non-API is the case where some adopter has used some class clearly designated as "internal". While we still will use care to not capriciously break adopters who do that, its less clear we could accommodate, but we will work to figure out why they were, if there is a better way, etc.
dclm_baseline
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Is coal economically viable? Is coal economically viable? When Donald Trump ran for president in 2016, he vowed to make coal a key part of the American economy by making sure that it would be used to power the nation. He wanted coal to regain its lofty place as the number one source for America’s energy needs and that regulations and renewable energy would not interfere with his promise. But as a businessman and candidate who ran exalting the benefits of the free market, Trump has neglected how consumers and companies are turning to cleaner and cheaper renewable energy in the United States. Even though the Trump Administration is still behind the use of coal as a key source of meeting America’s expanding energy needs, the question remains whether coal is an economically viable resource in the short and long term. Coal’s Economic and Financial Viability The American coal industry is undergoing a steady, precipitous decline that will accelerate in the next 15 to 20 years. For example, in January 2013, Georgia Power said it would shut down ten coal units containing a total of 1,976 megawatts (MW) of electricity while in the same year American Electric Power stated it will retire a coal-fired plant that generated 580 MW. Talen Energy decided to cease the operation of a coal-burning plant in Montana in 2018 since it was deemed as not being “economically viable” any longer. Michigan’s largest utility, DTE Energy, announced in 2017 that it would eventually end every aspect of its coal-based electricity production in approximately 23 years and that by 2040, the company would no longer have coal generation energy. Companies such as DTE and Talen are looking to significantly shrink their carbon footprint and move toward wind parks and solar farms generating cheaper energy. In the city of Chicago, Illinois, the cost of generating electricity using coal is 50 percent higher than natural gas. A 2013 report by the Center for Tax and Budget Accountability (CTBA) stated that the coal industry ended up costing the taxpayers of Illinois $19.8 million in 2011 even when subsidies, revenues, and costs tied to regulations were subtracted. There are also the social costs associated with coal. In a report by Climate Advisors for the World Bank, the social costs of electricity generation using coal was $99/MWh or Megawatts per hour. However, for alternative sources of energy such as nuclear ($52/MWh), natural gas ($83/MWh), and wind ($72/MWh), the costs are all considerably cheaper. In terms of cost of natural gas, the average price of the commodity went from $7 per million British thermal units (BTU) in 2007 to $3 in the first half of 2017. Coal-dependent electric utilities  face other cost factors, include rising capital costs for updating, modernizing, and installing environmental controls at existing plants. Here existing plants must adhere to federal and state environmental laws in order to remain operational. There is also the cost associated with coal’s price volatility and any price increases for mining. Energy companies must also face the financial risk associated with failed coal projects such as the situation with Southern Company and its “clean coal” plant in Kemper County, Mississippi. The plant, with a cost runup of $7.5 billion, was to have been the first Integrated Gasification Combined-Cycle (IGCC) energy producer in the world equipped with Carbon Capture and Storage (CCS). The plant was supposed to produce 582 MW of electricity with expectations of capturing 65 percent of pre-combustion CO2 that it made. However, there were delays and significant cost overruns forcing Southern Company to abandon the project and convert it into a cheaper natural gas plant. The Shift Toward Alternative Energy Sources Coal has three main competitors that many analysts feel will eventually meet a large degree of America’s energy demands: natural gas, wind, and solar. Without a doubt, natural gas will be the largest competitor in energy production in the United States and probably ruin the coal industry. The use of hydraulic fracturing, or fracking, has had a great deal to do with undermining coal’s dominance since it is an easier way to take natural gas from the vast deposits located in the United States. With the increased use of fracking, coal-run energy plants are now being converted into natural gas plants and operating at lower cost. According to a report by the Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis, natural gas exceeded coal as the top generator of electricity in the country for the first time in American history in 2016 . The key significance of this fact is that in 2000, natural gas only produced 33 percent of the coal-generated electricity in the United States. Environmentally, natural gas also has certain benefits over coal. A newly built natural gas energy plant gives off 50 to 60 percent less in greenhouse gas emissions than one using coal. Wind power is another source of energy that is cost competitive. Taking into consideration advances in wind power technology and cheaper production costs, energy generation via wind technology has gotten 80 percent cheaper over the past thirty years. Between 2009 and 2012, the weighted average cost of wind-powered electricity generation in the United States has dropped by greater than 40 percent. The trend in electricity generated by wind farms will only grow as time passes. According to the American Wind Energy Association, there are now 14 states that met more than 10 percent of their electricity needs using wind in 2017. Solar power has also seen decreases in cost, especially in the use of solar photovoltaics (PV). Due to improved technology and greater economies of scale, PV capacity in the United States market has increased to 8.9 gigawatts (GW). More and more homeowners across the United States are installing solar panels on the roofs of their homes while such institutions as colleges and universities are placing them on top of buildings and in their parking lots. The state of California recently passed a law mandating that new homes must have solar panels installed on their roofs. The cost of both solar and wind power will undermine the cost of coal. According to the investment bank, Lazard, in 2014 the cost of utility-scale solar power went as low as 5.6 cents per kilowatt hour (kWh), while the cost of wind went to 1.4 cents per kWh. The cost of coal was 6.6 cents per kWh. What the future holds Many analysts believe that it is not a question of if, but when coal will lose its predominance as a key generator of energy in the United States. Other nations around the world such as Germany, France, China, and India, are currently making the switch from fossil fuel to renewable clean energy and saving huge sums of money in the process. The Trump Administration wants to go back to a time when coal was king rather than leading the world in encouraging adoption of new energy technology. In America, consumers, companies, and the states are seen as advancing to the forefront in using renewable energy and making a faster transition to a cleaner, more efficient, and cost-effective future. About Author Arthur Guarino
dclm_baseline
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Details, Fiction and team building events   as a bunch training. It will let you to detect how effectively you all work alongside one another, and to discover what regions want bettering. You might take into account Placing up a large display screen within the parking zone to point out spouse and children movies in the summer months. Invite workforce as well as their company to take pleasure in annual sporting events like the final video game of the planet Sequence and the ultimate four online games with the NCAA on large display TVs. Whether you're dining at a restaurant or grilling hamburgers at a local park, departmental lunches are excellent team building activities. There's some thing about sharing a meal together outside the Office environment that encourages workers to talk and have to know one another. The paper is passed to the best once more. Every person reads the description, folds the paper above to cover the text, and draws an image of that. Goal: This training touches on conflict resolution with the concept that many conflicts arise for the reason that team associates don’t really hear. When the thirty minutes is finish, the team will choose from among the challenge-solving troubles and truly do the activity. The initial Element of the activity allows contributors to mirror again on their life, while the next part (which we’ll examine in a minute) permits them to acquire to grasp their coworkers on a more personal level. The 2nd portion of the sport is definitely the “overview” section. The chief of your activity will request Every and every participant what their thirty seconds entailed and why they selected it, which allows individuals to get a truly feel for each other’s passions, enjoys, and personalities. Ability-centered volunteering is actually a interesting way to stretch your staff members' expertise: It really is Once your team volunteers its time and utilizes its Specialist techniques -- anything from advertising and marketing to application development to composing -- that can help a nonprofit. What superior method click here of getting your employees to break out of their shells than to own them stand up and sing some karaoke? You can also have a contest for very best group karaoke functionality. Those using a "two" on their own plates can move to convention place B. The team building lunch is a fantastic chance to enable employees get to learn one another improved, and who's not up to get a lunch? The theory is similar to the “Company Concentration” format, in which pairs of cards with visuals on a single facet are made use of. Every team member can use that cure, and also the answers to concerns, to figure out exactly what the label is. As Every single team member figures out who They're, they could exit the sport and Allow The remainder keep on. Provide the team in to the place, and divide evenly into groups of no less than two. Explain to them they have 30 minutes to think of a group dilemma-resolving challenge that could make use of: teamwork, creativeness, communication. This dynamic schooling session will measure your group’s teamwork proficiency, establish spots that require enhancement and produce activities custom-tailor-made to People requires. Comments on “Details, Fiction and team building events” Leave a Reply
dclm_baseline
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"use strict"; Object.defineProperty(exports, "__esModule", { value: true }); exports.TrafficMap = undefined; var _createClass = function () { function defineProperties(target, props) { for (var i = 0; i < props.length; i++) { var descriptor = props[i]; descriptor.enumerable = descriptor.enumerable || false; descriptor.configurable = true; if ("value" in descriptor) descriptor.writable = true; Object.defineProperty(target, descriptor.key, descriptor); } } return function (Constructor, protoProps, staticProps) { if (protoProps) defineProperties(Constructor.prototype, protoProps); if (staticProps) defineProperties(Constructor, staticProps); return Constructor; }; }(); var _react = require("react"); var _react2 = _interopRequireDefault(_react); var _propTypes = require("prop-types"); var _propTypes2 = _interopRequireDefault(_propTypes); var _underscore = require("underscore"); var _underscore2 = _interopRequireDefault(_underscore); var _BaseMap = require("./BaseMap"); var _Resizable = require("./Resizable"); function _interopRequireDefault(obj) { return obj && obj.__esModule ? obj : { default: obj }; } function _classCallCheck(instance, Constructor) { if (!(instance instanceof Constructor)) { throw new TypeError("Cannot call a class as a function"); } } function _possibleConstructorReturn(self, call) { if (!self) { throw new ReferenceError("this hasn't been initialised - super() hasn't been called"); } return call && (typeof call === "object" || typeof call === "function") ? call : self; } function _inherits(subClass, superClass) { if (typeof superClass !== "function" && superClass !== null) { throw new TypeError("Super expression must either be null or a function, not " + typeof superClass); } subClass.prototype = Object.create(superClass && superClass.prototype, { constructor: { value: subClass, enumerable: false, writable: true, configurable: true } }); if (superClass) Object.setPrototypeOf ? Object.setPrototypeOf(subClass, superClass) : subClass.__proto__ = superClass; } /** * Copyright (c) 2018, The Regents of the University of California, * through Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory (subject to receipt * of any required approvals from the U.S. Dept. of Energy). * All rights reserved. * * This source code is licensed under the BSD-style license found in the * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree. */ /** * A high level component for showing network topology, including visualizing * network traffic as a heat map. */ var TrafficMap = exports.TrafficMap = function (_React$Component) { _inherits(TrafficMap, _React$Component); function TrafficMap() { _classCallCheck(this, TrafficMap); return _possibleConstructorReturn(this, (TrafficMap.__proto__ || Object.getPrototypeOf(TrafficMap)).apply(this, arguments)); } _createClass(TrafficMap, [{ key: "bounds", value: function bounds() { if (this.props.bounds) { return this.props.bounds; } var minX = _underscore2.default.min(this.props.topology.nodes, function (node) { return node.x; }).x; var minY = _underscore2.default.min(this.props.topology.nodes, function (node) { return node.y; }).y; var maxX = _underscore2.default.max(this.props.topology.nodes, function (node) { return node.x; }).x; var maxY = _underscore2.default.max(this.props.topology.nodes, function (node) { return node.y; }).y; return { x1: minX, x2: maxX, y1: minY, y2: maxY }; } }, { key: "nodeSize", value: function nodeSize(name) { return this.props.nodeSizeMap[name] || 7; } }, { key: "nodeShape", value: function nodeShape(name) { return this.props.nodeShapeMap[name] || "circle"; } }, { key: "edgeThickness", value: function edgeThickness(capacity) { return this.props.edgeThicknessMap[capacity] || 5; } }, { key: "edgeShape", value: function edgeShape(name) { if (_underscore2.default.has(this.props.edgeShapeMap, name)) { return this.props.edgeShapeMap[name].shape; } else { return "linear"; } } }, { key: "edgeCurveDirection", value: function edgeCurveDirection(name) { var direction = void 0; if (_underscore2.default.has(this.props.edgeShapeMap, name)) { if (this.props.edgeShapeMap[name].shape === "curved") { return this.props.edgeShapeMap[name].direction; } } return direction; } }, { key: "edgeCurveOffset", value: function edgeCurveOffset(name) { var offset = void 0; if (_underscore2.default.has(this.props.edgeShapeMap, name)) { if (this.props.edgeShapeMap[name].shape === "curved") { return this.props.edgeShapeMap[name].offset; } } return offset; } }, { key: "selectEdgeColor", value: function selectEdgeColor(bps) { var gbps = bps / 1.0e9; for (var i = 0; i < this.props.edgeColorMap.length; i++) { var row = this.props.edgeColorMap[i]; if (gbps >= row.range[0]) { return row.color; } } return "#C9CACC"; } }, { key: "filteredPaths", value: function filteredPaths() { var _this2 = this; return _underscore2.default.filter(this.props.topology.paths, function (path) { if (_underscore2.default.isArray(_this2.props.showPaths)) { return _underscore2.default.contains(_this2.props.showPaths, path.name); } return true; }); } }, { key: "buildTopology", value: function buildTopology() { var _this3 = this; var topology = {}; if (_underscore2.default.isNull(this.props.topology)) { return null; } var genericStyle = { node: { normal: { fill: "#B0B0B0", stroke: "#9E9E9E", cursor: "pointer" }, selected: { fill: "#37B6D3", stroke: "rgba(55, 182, 211, 0.22)", strokeWidth: 10, cursor: "pointer" }, muted: { fill: "#B0B0B0", stroke: "#9E9E9E", opacity: 0.6, cursor: "pointer" } }, label: { normal: { fill: "#696969", stroke: "none", fontSize: 9 }, selected: { fill: "#333", stroke: "none", fontSize: 11 }, muted: { fill: "#696969", stroke: "none", fontSize: 8, opacity: 0.6 } } }; // Create a node list topology.nodes = _underscore2.default.map(this.props.topology.nodes, function (node) { var n = _underscore2.default.clone(node); // Radius is based on the type of node, given in the nodeSizeMap n.radius = _this3.nodeSize(node.type); n.labelPosition = node.label_position; n.labelOffsetX = node.label_dx; n.labelOffsetY = node.label_dy; var styleMap = _underscore2.default.has(_this3.props.stylesMap, node.type) ? _this3.props.stylesMap[node.type] : genericStyle; n.style = styleMap.node; n.labelStyle = styleMap.label; n.shape = _this3.nodeShape(node.name); return n; }); // Create the edge list topology.edges = _underscore2.default.map(this.props.topology.edges, function (edge) { var edgeName = edge.source + "--" + edge.target; return { width: _this3.edgeThickness(edge.capacity), classed: edge.capacity, source: edge.source, target: edge.target, totalCapacity: edge.total_capacity, ifaces: edge.ifaces, name: edgeName, shape: _this3.edgeShape(edgeName), curveDirection: _this3.edgeCurveDirection(edgeName), offset: _this3.edgeCurveOffset(edgeName) }; }); // Create the path list, filtering based on what is in showPaths if (this.props.showPaths) { topology.paths = _underscore2.default.map(this.filteredPaths(), function (path) { var color = _underscore2.default.has(_this3.props.pathColorMap, path.name) ? _this3.props.pathColorMap[path.name] : "lightsteelblue"; var width = _underscore2.default.has(_this3.props.pathWidthMap, path.name) ? _this3.props.pathWidthMap[path.name] : 4; return { name: path.name, steps: path.steps, color: color, width: width }; }); } // Colorize the topology if (this.props.traffic) { if (!this.props.showPaths && this.props.edgeDrawingMethod === "bidirectionalArrow") { _underscore2.default.each(topology.edges, function (edge) { var sourceTargetName = edge.source + "--" + edge.target; var targetSourceName = edge.target + "--" + edge.source; var sourceTargetTraffic = _this3.props.traffic.get(sourceTargetName); var targetSourceTraffic = _this3.props.traffic.get(targetSourceName); edge.sourceTargetColor = _this3.selectEdgeColor(sourceTargetTraffic); edge.targetSourceColor = _this3.selectEdgeColor(targetSourceTraffic); }); } else { var edgeMap = {}; _underscore2.default.each(this.filteredPaths(), function (path) { var pathAtoZTraffic = _this3.props.traffic.get(path.name + "--AtoZ"); var pathZtoATraffic = _this3.props.traffic.get(path.name + "--ZtoA"); var prev = null; _underscore2.default.each(path.steps, function (step) { if (prev) { var sourceTargetName = prev + "--" + step; if (!_underscore2.default.has(edgeMap, sourceTargetName)) { edgeMap[sourceTargetName] = 0; } edgeMap[sourceTargetName] += pathAtoZTraffic; var targetSourceName = step + "--" + prev; if (!_underscore2.default.has(edgeMap, targetSourceName)) { edgeMap[targetSourceName] = 0; } edgeMap[targetSourceName] += pathZtoATraffic; } prev = step; }); }); _underscore2.default.each(topology.edges, function (edge) { edge.stroke = _this3.props.edgeColor ? _this3.props.edgeColor : "#DDD"; var sourceTargetName = edge.source + "--" + edge.target; var targetSourceName = edge.target + "--" + edge.source; if (_underscore2.default.has(edgeMap, sourceTargetName)) { var sourceTargetTraffic = edgeMap[sourceTargetName]; edge.sourceTargetColor = _this3.selectEdgeColor(sourceTargetTraffic); } if (_underscore2.default.has(edgeMap, targetSourceName)) { var targetSourceTraffic = edgeMap[targetSourceName]; edge.targetSourceColor = _this3.selectEdgeColor(targetSourceTraffic); } }); } } topology.name = this.props.topology.name; topology.description = this.props.topology.description; return topology; } }, { key: "handleSelectionChanged", value: function handleSelectionChanged(selectionType, selection) { if (this.props.onSelectionChange) { this.props.onSelectionChange(selectionType, selection); } } }, { key: "render", value: function render() { var _this4 = this; var topo = this.buildTopology(); var bounds = this.bounds(); var aspect = (bounds.x2 - bounds.x1) / (bounds.y2 - bounds.y1); var autoSize = this.props.autoSize; var defaultStyle = { background: "#F6F6F6", borderStyle: "solid", borderWidth: "thin", borderColor: "#E6E6E6" }; var style = this.props.style ? this.props.style : defaultStyle; if (autoSize) { return _react2.default.createElement( _Resizable.Resizable, { aspect: aspect, style: style }, _react2.default.createElement(_BaseMap.BaseMap, { topology: topo, paths: topo.paths, bounds: bounds, width: this.props.width, height: this.props.height, margin: this.props.margin, selection: this.props.selection, edgeDrawingMethod: this.props.edgeDrawingMethod, onSelectionChange: function onSelectionChange(selectionType, selection) { return _this4.handleSelectionChanged(selectionType, selection); } }) ); } else { return _react2.default.createElement( "div", { style: style }, _react2.default.createElement(_BaseMap.BaseMap, { topology: topo, paths: topo.paths, bounds: bounds, width: this.props.width, height: this.props.height, margin: this.props.margin, selection: this.props.selection, edgeDrawingMethod: this.props.edgeDrawingMethod, onSelectionChange: function onSelectionChange(selectionType, selection) { return _this4.handleSelectionChanged(selectionType, selection); } }) ); } } }]); return TrafficMap; }(_react2.default.Component); TrafficMap.defaultProps = { edgeThicknessMap: { "100G": 5, "10G": 3, "1G": 1.5, subG: 1 }, edgeColor: "#DDD", edgeColorMap: [], nodeSizeMap: {}, nodeShapeMap: {}, edgeShapeMap: {}, selected: false, shape: "circle", stylesMap: {}, showPaths: false, autoSize: true }; TrafficMap.propTypes = { /** The width of the circuit diagram */ width: _propTypes2.default.number, /** * The topology structure, as detailed above. This contains the * descriptions of nodes, edges and paths used to render the topology */ topology: _propTypes2.default.object, /** * Specified as an object containing x1, y1 and x2, y2. This is the region * to display on the map. If this isn't specified the bounds will be * calculated from the nodes in the Map. */ bounds: _propTypes2.default.shape({ x1: _propTypes2.default.number, y1: _propTypes2.default.number, x2: _propTypes2.default.number, y2: _propTypes2.default.number }), /** * The is the overall rendering style for the edge connections. Maybe * one of the following strings: * * * "simple" - simple line connections between nodes * * "bidirectionalArrow" - network traffic represented by bi-directional arrows * * "pathBidirectionalArrow" - similar to "bidirectionalArrow", but only for * edges that are used in the currently displayed path(s). */ edgeDrawingMethod: _propTypes2.default.oneOf(["simple", "bidirectionalArrow", "pathBidirectionalArrow"]), /** * Either a boolean or a list of path names. If a bool, and true, then all * paths will be shown. If a list then only the paths in that list will be * shown. The default is to show no paths. */ showPaths: _propTypes2.default.oneOfType([_propTypes2.default.bool, _propTypes2.default.arrayOf(_propTypes2.default.string)]), /** * A mapping of the capacity field within the tologogy edge object * to a line thickness for rendering the edges. * * Example: * * ``` * const edgeThicknessMap = { * "100G": 5, * "10G": 3, * "1G": 1.5, * "subG": 1 * }; * ``` */ edgeThicknessMap: _propTypes2.default.object, /** * The default color for an edge which isn't colored using the `edgeColorMap`. */ edgeColor: _propTypes2.default.string, /** * A mapping of traffic on the link, in Gbps, to a color and label. The label is because the same * mapping can be used to create a legend for the map. * * Example: * * ``` * const edgeColorMap = [ * { color: "#990000", label: ">=50 Gbps", range: [50, 100] }, * { color: "#bd0026", label: "20 - 50", range: [20, 50] }, * { color: "#cc4c02", label: "10 - 20", range: [10, 20] }, * { color: "#016c59", label: "5 - 10", range: [5, 10] }, * { color: "#238b45", label: "2 - 5", range: [2, 5] }, * { color: "#3690c0", label: "1 - 2", range: [1, 2] }, * { color: "#74a9cf", label: "0 - 1", range: [0, 1] } * ]; * ``` */ edgeColorMap: _propTypes2.default.array, /** * A mapping from the type field in the node object to a size to draw the shape * * Example: * ``` * const nodeSizeMap = { * hub: 5.5, * esnet_site: 7 * }; * ``` */ nodeSizeMap: _propTypes2.default.object, /** * Mapping of node name to shape (default is "circle", other options are * "cloud" or "square", currently). * * Example: * ``` * const nodeShapeMap = { * DENV: "square" * }; * ``` */ nodeShapeMap: _propTypes2.default.object, /** * A mapping of the edge name (which is source + "--" + target) to a * dict of edge shape options: * * `shape` (either "linear" or "curved") * * `direction` (if shape is curved, either "left" or "right") * * `offset` (if shape is curved, the amount of curve, which is * pixel offset from a straight line between the source and target at the midpoint) * * Example: * ``` * const edgeShapeMap = { * "ALBQ--DENV": { * "shape": "curved", * "direction": "right", * "offset": 15 * } * ``` */ edgeShapeMap: _propTypes2.default.object, /** Display the endpoint selected */ selected: _propTypes2.default.bool, /** The shape of the endpoint */ shape: _propTypes2.default.oneOf(["circle", "square", "cloud"]), stylesMap: _propTypes2.default.object, autoSize: _propTypes2.default.bool };
common_corpus
{'identifier': 'https://github.com/esnet/react-network-diagrams/blob/master/packages/react-network-diagrams/lib/components/TrafficMap.js', 'collection': 'Github Open Source', 'open_type': 'Open Source', 'license': 'BSD-3-Clause-LBNL', 'date': '2022.0', 'title': 'react-network-diagrams', 'creator': 'esnet', 'language': 'JavaScript', 'language_type': 'Code', 'word_count': '1834', 'token_count': '5465', '__index_level_0__': '16660', 'original_id': '384badd035e9f4c3e95ee796df9b9e3a3acedca4093ca7f6656c6bc52c9079d7'}
Platelet-activating factor (PAF) has been associated with various biological activities and pathways, thus making it an important mediator responsible for a variety of physiological processes, including activation of platelets, smooth muscle contraction, pathogenesis of immune complex deposition, inflammation, and respiratory, cardiovascular and intravascular alterations. These physiological processes are associated with a large group of diseases, such as cardiovascular disorders, asthma, lung edema, endotoxin shock, adult respiratory distress syndrome and inflammatory diseases. Various classes of compounds are known for inhibiting platelet activation induced by agents such as arachidonic acid, collagen and platelet activating factor. For example, several classes of imidazole derivatives are known for use in treatment of various cardiovascular and immuno-response diseases related to platelet dysfunction or platelet hyperactivity. U.S. Pat. No. 2,025,946 to Iizuki et al mentions certain classes of imidazoles, namely, N-(.omega.-substituted alkylphenylalkyl)imidazoles, N-(.omega.-substituted alkylphenyl)imidazoles and N-(nucleus-substituted phenylakyl)imidazoles which are described as having inhibitory effect on thromboxane synthetase and to be useful for treatment of inflammation, thrombus and asthma. U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,284,641 and 4,416,895 to Thorogood describe certain cycloalkyl/cycloalkenyl imidazoles which inhibit platelet aggregation or reduce the adhesive character of platelets by selective inhibition of thromboxane A2. Also described for the same purpose in U.S. Pat. No. 4,537,340 to Thorogood is a class of 1-arylalkylimidazoles. In U.S. Pat. No. 4,243,671 to Harris et al, the compound 1-(3-phenyl-2-propenyl)1H-imidazole is described as effective in inhibiting thromboxane synthetase, arachidonic acid-induced platelet aggregation and bronchoconstriction. Compounds are known for use in treating platelet dysfunction or platelet hyperactivity induced specifically by platelet activating factor (PAF). For example, a certain class of glycerol derivatives useful as PAF antagonists is described in EP No. 142,333. A class of indene derivatives is described in EP No. 142,801 as PAF inhibitors. Compounds containing heterocyclic moieties of various types are also known as PAF antagonists. For example, U.S. Pat. No. 4,579,862 to Manley et al describes certain imidazole/pyridinylalkanoic acid derivatives as PAF antagonists. U.S. Pat. No. 4,804,658 to Manley et al describes a class of imidazopyridine derivatives useful as PAF inhibitors and mentions, in particular, the compound N-cyclohexyl-N-methyl-4-(1H-imidazo [4,5-c]pyridin-1-yl-methyl)benzamide as an inhibitor of PAF-induced aggregation in an assay using human platelet-rich plasma. U.S. Pat. No. 4,914,108 to Khanna et al describes a class of 5-substituted(4,5-c) imidazopyridine compounds having PAF antagonist activity, including, in particular, the compound 5-[4{-(N-isopropyl,N-cyclohexyl)carboxamido}-2-methoxybenzyl]imidazo[4,5-c ]pyridine.
mini_pile
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Opinion | The Many Humiliations of Sex Segregation Iris Leal Iris Leal Send in e-mailSend in e-mail The gender-segregated event at a municipal park in Afula, in northern Israel, on Wednesday, August 15, 2019. The gender-segregated event at a municipal park in Afula, in northern Israel, on Wednesday, August 15, 2019.Credit: Gil Eliahu Iris Leal Iris Leal For a few years now I’ve been breaking all the secular-liberal-feminist laws and teaching women-only classes, on the sly. Why? Because I believe that my course has the power to change the consciousness of female ultra-Orthodox students and knock down the partitions between them and language, between them and the world. I have no desire to distance these Haredi women from their world or bring them closer to mine, only to help them express themselves. But there’s also something selfish about it. With them, I return to my childhood in Bnei Brak and my Haredi Zionist family. These are pleasant memories, for a few reasons. The main one is that my grandmother, in whose home I was raised, was an independent thinker who violated many prohibitions behind my grandfather’s back and taught me to question everything, even Rogel Alpher’s columns or the secular sensibility that Haaretz editorials occasionally suggest. To ask, for example, whether the segregation of men and women in the public sphere, as at the concert in Afula last week, is necessarily “a black day for gender equality,” as Haaretz put it in its editorial Thursday. “Why can’t Haredi women go to an event in the public sphere in the way that suits them and not as the Israel Women’s Network has decided is good for them?” an ultra-Orthodox woman asked me at the height of the dispute over the Afula concert. And like a good liberal girl, I told her that with the exception of a synagogue or private event, the separation of men and women is a violation of the principle of equality. “What equality?” she cried, “You’re the only ones who can enjoy yourselves and we can’t? Why do I have to fund, out of the taxes I pay, events that totally contradict my worldview?” In contrast to the fantasies of Bezalel Smotrich, I answered her that this isn’t a state based on Jewish religious law, and if she thinks that by permitting sex segregation at a public event she’ll preserve the state’s “Jewishness,” why not allow segregation on the streets of the most devout neighborhoods or ban women from speaking on the radio? Her reply once again made my own position clear to me: “You don’t really understand the perspective of a religious woman. You see her through your own eyes. Have you ever thought that maybe we’re glad not to be in front, to be able to dance and be joyous without anyone watching us?” Unwittingly, all the anxiety that women in Haredi society suffer came to light in that description. In forgetting themselves, in submitting to the music, women are liable to fall victim to “predators” on the other side of the fence, and so they must be hidden from prying eyes, separate and protected. Its hard to describe the rage this description stirred in me, a rage that toppled my possibly phenomenological partition. This too is how I remember my childhood – not only walking hand-in-hand with my grandmother on Friday evening, but also the sense that segregation is a type of humiliation, because the sexual argument lurked everywhere and women were a walking catalyst for sinful thoughts. No wonder my Haredi friend wants to be left alone with her female friends, just as my female students don’t want to study alongside men. These women got used to seeing themselves as a threat to the social order, and seeing men as a threat to them. So they must be believed when they say that separation wasn’t only forced on them but is also what they want. They were raised to have a talismanic fear of their power to bring on themselves an attack or stir men’s base instincts. This reduction of women to seductive Liliths is a matter for Haredi society, but the state must not lend a hand to it. That said, as long as I am permitted I won’t stop teaching women separately, because only in these conditions can they liberate their thought from the zealous educational jail, and not only due to the prohibition. They genuinely prefer to keep their distance from men, and I don’t blame them.
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Learn About: Evaluating Performance | Common Core Home > Staffing and Students > How good are your teachers?: Trying to define teacher quality | print Print How good are your teachers?: Trying to define teacher quality What makes an effective teacher? We all know one. But ask us to describe a good teacher’s qualities and the answer is likely a vague “You know it when you see it.” The same dilemma occurs in teacher quality research. Through data tools like Tennessee’s value-added scores, we can tell when an effective teacher is in the classroom when we see his or her effects on students’ learning.  Scores rise and the positive impact can be dramatic, especially for poor and minority children. What we don’t know is exactly what makes that teacher effective. Any one single indicator of teacher quality—for instance, something like years of experience—rarely yields a strong correlation. With Race to The Top creating a stronger emphasis on teacher effectiveness, the question of teacher effectiveness is becoming more acute. Thankfully, recent research has given more insight into whether the characteristics we’ve been requiring have any correlation. It also highlights the combinations of characteristics that seem to reliably predict a quality teacher. State Certification: Yes, especially in the subject being taught Teacher certification comes in many forms. For example, a teacher may be certified in science but actually teach an algebra course. While simply having traditional certification is good, certification in the particular subject being taught often has a stronger correlation with student success. Studies have found that subject-area certification in mathematics for secondary teachers is associated with higher student math performance (Goe 2007, Clotfelter et al. 2007). Similar results have been found in English, and for math at the middle-school level. At the elementary level, the findings are often mixed, with some studies showing little or no difference on elementary students’ performance (Gordon et al. 2006). Evidence on alternative certification is mixed, partially because there are at least 140 different types of programs throughout the country. However, Teach for America, the most visible of these programs, has been studied extensively and newer studies are more positive about the program’s results. The particular reason needs to be more firmly established, but the program’s focus on students from highly selective colleges seems to benefit the students they teach (Xu, Hannaway, and Taylor 2007). The research is clear on one aspect: Putting teachers with emergency or no certification has, on average, a negative effect on student achievement (Goe 2007, Darling-Hammond et al. 2005). Subject-Matter Knowledge: Yes It seems intuitive that teachers need to be well-versed in the subjects they teach. However, large numbers of teachers lack a major in their main field of assignment (NCES 2008), usually because of emergency staffing needs. Most studies before 2005 found that teacher subject-matter knowledge was correlated to higher student achievement. However, current research is more effective at measuring a teacher’s impact on the change in student achievement, which has led to more mixed results. A teacher can demonstrate subject-matter knowledge in several ways: A teaching credential in a subject: Teachers with a specific credential in the subject are more closely associated with student success. A major or minor in a subject in college: Not surprisingly, students who had math teachers with a bachelor’s degree in math earned higher math scores (Goldhaber and Brewer 2000, Dee and Cohodes 2005). An advanced degree in a subject: Once again, the impact is primarily felt at the middle or high school levels. In North Carolina, across all subjects, students who were taught by a teacher with a master’s degree in the subject were better off than their classmates who were taught by a teacher with just a bachelor’s degree (Clotfelder et al. 2007b). Demonstrating knowledge on a test: Unlike the other three indicators of subject-matter knowledge, teachers with higher test scores (such as on the Praxis exam) are more effective at both the elementary and high school levels. In all of these studies, no one way of demonstrating subject-matter knowledge showed consistent effects for all students across all subjects. However, taken together, all signs point to the importance of a teacher having an in-depth knowledge of the subject matter, especially at the high school level. Advanced Degrees in General: No  Most district policies and collective-bargaining agreements assume that teachers with master’s degrees and doctorates are more effective than those with bachelor’s degrees. However, recent studies have produced evidence that advanced degrees are not associated with higher levels of teacher effectiveness. Simply having any sort of advanced degree (as opposed to advanced degrees in the subject matter being taught) does not contribute to teachers’ effectiveness. Moreover, Clotfelter, Ladd, and Vigdor (2006) found a consistently negative effect of a master’s degree on student achievement in a study of 4,000 elementary school teachers in North Carolina. Academic Qualifications: Yes A clearer way of looking at the whole field of teachers’ academic background may be to look at the rigor of the programs they complete and their achievement there, for there is evidence that teachers’ academic qualifications are associated with effectiveness. Students whose teachers have higher math SAT scores have higher math achievement; so, too, do students whose teachers attended a more competitive college, although less so (Boyd et al. 2007). Higher scores on teacher licensing tests (e.g., the Praxis exam) are also associated with higher levels of student achievement, particularly in math (Clotfelter, Ladd, and Wigdor 2007). Seniority: More than four years As with any profession, teachers benefit from experience. The evidence shows, though, that experience matters only up to a point. Most of the gains from experience occur in the first four years of teaching. (Rockoff 2004; Rivkin, Hanushek, and Kain 2005; Kane, Rockoff, and Staiger 2006) It is unclear whether this plateau effect reflects the possibility that experience yields little benefit after the first few years, or that the more able teachers leave the profession after that time. How good teachers are distributed Whatever measures you use to define a good teacher, high-poverty schools and minority students are less likely to have those teachers. For instance, black and Hispanic students are twice as likely as white students to be taught by out-of-field teachers. (Education Trust 2008) Or take the fact that in New York City, 35 percent of teachers in high-poverty schools had failed the state licensure exam on their first try.  (Boyd et al. 2007) Schools should pursue a combination of characteristics A study of teachers in New York City suggests a combination of characteristics makes a substantial difference. Teachers who were certified and who had stronger academic qualifications (as described in the above section) were more effective in the classroom, reducing the achievement gap between low- and high-poverty students by almost a fourth (Boyd et al. 2007). Districts that are seeking to raise achievement should consider seeking teachers with the observable characteristics that are associated with effectiveness: certification, academic credentials and experience. In addition, districts might consider consciously placing teachers who were likely to be effective in schools with low-income and minority students. Finally, keep in mind that these qualities are all something to be looked for during the hiring process. Once teachers are in the classroom, to find out if they are effective, examine a wider range of factors. Value-added scores, as described in the Center’s report “Measuring Student Growth,” reveal whether a particular teacher is effective inside the classroom. The overall working environment can also affect teacher effectiveness; for more information, visit the Center’s report on recruiting and retaining good teachers, “Wanted: good teachers.” This article was written by Robert Rothman, senior fellow at the Alliance for Education Excellence, with Patte Barth, director of the Center for Public Education. The article is based, in part, on a research review conducted for the Center by Edvantia, Inc. Posted: 12/17/2009 ©2009 Center for Public Education Add Your Comments Display name as (required):   Comments (max 2000 characters): You might also be interested in Read More All in Favor Read More
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Music Reviews The Bad Pelicans: Best Of Album Review The Bad Pelicans 24312561_1746129565429256_1333642699548204344_n-350x350 Best Of (Stolen Body Records) LP/CD/DL Released: 2 March, 2018 DIY Parisian surf punks release debut album and call it Best Of. Bad Pelicans emerged on the Parisian DIY scene a few years back and have been performing across Europe and developing a strong fan base. They have knocked together demo tapes and sold them out at their shows, and now they have re-recorded the best songs and released them as a debut album, perhaps arrogantly called Best Of, but it makes sense as a summation of their early career. Bad Pelicans are a trio of Fernando Dias (bass and vocals), Simon Vouland (drums) and Lucas Lecacheur (guitar) and they create a sound not unlike a cross between Jesus & Mary Chain, Cramps, Nirvana and the Velvet Underground. They mix up psychedelia, grunge, garage, lo-fi, slacker and horror surf to create a blend all their own, where the influences show, but don’t dominate their own individualism. They aren’t slaves to the genres, they take the shiny bits like magpies and create a treasure of modern noise. The music is often bared down to the minimum, but with surprising nuances, that drifts in and out like a surfer dipping in and out of the waves. Svrf Pvnk (they prefer the V to the U) opens proceedings with a primitive rhythm akin to JAMC. It starts with a laid back 60s groove then explodes with a scream and a fuzz guitar and segues into a psychobilly romp that declares they just wanna get high and have some fun. Svmmertime has a lighter, almost Ramones, start but with a darker, heavy groove spasmodically juxtaposing across the track, like something sinister on the summer horizon. This is like the Beach Boys in slacker mode. Svrf Svrf is the Cramps on speed. A surf psychobilly punk song with a mystical middle 8 and with hints of thrash and horror. It’s a frenzied mash up, like a crazed Surfin’ Bird or a theme tune to some psychedelic ‘60s cult show. Svfr has a Velvet Underground vibe spiced up with a bit of horror punk. Covch Pizza, a song about being a slacker, is perversely a heavy thrash with a lot of angry shouting. Bvddy Bvdz almost wanders into indie-pop mode, whilst Svrf Your Coffin is a great psychobilly groove, with the title repeated vocals down in the mix and a lo-fi sound. It is all wrapped up with Pavline McShit which is a mix up of all the previous styles on the album and works exceedingly well. On this showing Bad Pelicans are a band well worth seeking out; their mixture of styles creates a sound all their own and they add their own verve and sense of fun. It’s an accomplished release. It will be interesting where they go from Best Of. Vive les Bad Pelicans! You can find The Bad Pelicans on Facebook. This review first appeared on Louder Than War. Leave a Reply You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change ) Google+ photo Twitter picture Facebook photo Connecting to %s
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Michelle: this is a long time friend of mine who left SMK with Mickey Sheinfeld, but would like to move on to something new. Would she be a candidate for anything we need? Or anybody else you might think of? thanks Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Thrasher, Judy G." <JThrasher@AkinGump.com>@ENRON [mailto:IMCEANOTES-+22Thrasher+2C+20Judy+20G+2E+22+20+3CJThrasher+40AkinGump+2Ecom+3E+40ENRON@ENRON.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 2:39 PM To: 'lstoler@enron.com' Subject: <<4@3@01!.doc>> Lou, thank you for your time and assistance. Remember, I am only interested in working a part time schedule. I will talk with Bonnie and we will set up something with you. I did not receive your e-mail. Good to talk with you. Judy Thrasher Legal Assistant Akin, Gump, Strauss, Hauer & Feld 1900 Pennzoil Place, South Tower 711 Louisiana Houston, TX 77002 (713) 220-5850 The information contained in this e-mail message is intended only for the personal and confidential use of the recipient(s) named above. This message may be an attorney-client communication and/or work product and as such is privileged and confidential. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient or an agent responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you have received this document in error and that any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by e-mail, and delete the original message. - 4@3@01!.doc
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All browsers are not the same when it comes to online security. There has been a lot of discussion in the past couple of years about how to stay safe online, and people have begun wondering just how secure their web browsers are. One of the most important components of browser security is how quickly vulnerabilities are fixed. Any browser is liable to being hacked using new exploits, so it’s important that fixes are made promptly and sent out to users before they risk being exposed. Many people who are aware of online security issues are already using tools like VPNs (Virtual Private Networks) and antivirus packages, which are important defences for keeping yourself secure online. However, some browsers can undermine that extra security. A notable risk in browsers that is especially pertinent to VPN users is WebRTC IP leaking. WebRTC (Web Real Time Communication) is a framework for letting websites easily send peer-to-peer audio and video, but it’s also a security risk as it can reveal users’ IP addresses even from behind a VPN. If you’re worried that this or any other issue is posing a threat to your data, read on to find out the security pros and cons of some of the most popular browser options. Mozilla Firefox Firefox is favoured by a lot of security-minded users because it is open-source software managed by a non-profit company, so there is less opportunity or incentive for it to track its users. Regular browser updates in Firefox are sent out every couple of months. However, when new vulnerabilities are discovered, Mozilla promises to release ‘hotfixes’ in less than a day. Firefox has a built-in setting to disable WebRTC, as well as numerous extensions for improving your online security such as NoScript which allows you to disable scripts on every webpage other than those you trust. Firefox also comes with built-in Do Not Track functionality, and container options so that you can open notoriously snoop-focused apps like Facebook in their own silo without access to the rest of your device. It also offers an insecure password warning if a site might be able to steal your data, and comes with built-in phishing and malware protection. Verdict: rapid updates and a raft of defences as standard make this the most secure of the best-known browsers. Google Chrome Since its first release in 2009, Google Chrome has steadily grown to become the most popular browser by a wide margin. On desktop, Chrome now commands almost 70% of market share. Initially there was much skepticism about Chrome’s security, since Google makes a lot of its money from its users’ information. However, while Chrome collects information just like other Google services, it has also introduced powerful security features like in-built protection against malware and phishing, as well as a Do Not Track feature. Chrome was the first major browser to start sandboxing tabs, meaning that the browser ‘engine’ - the part that fetches and displays web pages - doesn’t have any access to system commands. This makes the browser hard to hack, and has given it a reputation for security. Chrome also receives updates more often than any other browser. Since Chrome is the biggest kid on the block it’s also of most interest to hackers, so having a high update frequency with patches for exploits is important. However, while Chrome is otherwise fairly secure, there is no option to turn off WebRTC. It can be disabled with extensions, such as WebRTC Control, but VPN users would do well to double check that their IP is not being leaked. To check if WebRTC is leaking your IP address in Chrome, use a free tool like HMA!’s WebRTC leak checker. Verdict: secure enough for most people’s daily web use. Joint VPN and Chrome users will want to make sure they either disable WebRTC, or switch to a VPN provider that offers built-in WebRTC leak blocking. Apple Safari Individual tabs in Safari are not sandboxed, but Safari itself, like all official apps on MacOS, is sandboxed by the operating system. Safari wins serious security points for its anti-phishing filters and optional pop-up blocking, but does have security weaknesses. It rarely updates, and in 2018 was the least updated of any available browser. The most recent update did include patches for major flaws that were allowing password spoofing and auto-filled data theft, but currently WebRTC can’t be turned off in Safari even when using extensions. Verdict: recent patches have made Safari a much more secure option that it used to be. However, VPN users will need to ensure that their VPN is blocking WebRTC leaks while using this browser. Microsoft Edge When Microsoft revealed the successor to Internet Explorer (IE), they promised that it would address the security concerns that many had with its predecessor. Removing ActiveX and other tools that were often the source of exploits was a good start, but Edge is still far from the most secure browser. Edge usually receives updates on a monthly or near-monthly basis. This is on the longer side of what is considered a good update frequency to fix vulnerabilities before they affect too many users, but is more frequent by far than Safari. There is no way to disable WebRTC in Edge natively or with extensions, so VPN users should be wary of using this browser. Verdict: while there are improvements over IE, Microsoft’s new browser is still not as secure as its competitors. Avast Secure Browser Avast Secure Browser was created by Avast, the company known for its antivirus software. While fairly new and not well-known, the browser comes with some helpful security features. Avast Secure Browser is based on Chromium, the open source project that Chrome is also built on. When the Chromium code base gets updated with security fixes, they can be rolled out to all the browsers involved in the project. Avast Secure Browser should get security updates as quickly as Chrome, though in the past other Chromium-based browsers have often lagged behind Google’s own browser by an update or two. WebRTC can be turned off in Avast Secure Browser using the Adblock feature. In addition to Adblock, there are also other built-in security tools such as anti-tracking and anti-phishing features built in to the browser. Verdict: a secure option, with some great extra features. The TOR browser is part of The Onion Router project, which disguises web traffic by routing it through their network of servers. TOR has gained a reputation as the ultimate browser for online privacy, but it does have its limitations. TOR can be incredibly slow due to web traffic passing through multiple servers, and without a VPN your web traffic can still be intercepted between your computer and the TOR network. TOR releases updates every couple of weeks or so, though since TOR routes traffic through its servers, there is less chance of exploits providing access to users’ computers in the first place. There is no support for WebRTC in TOR, so you should not be at risk of IP leaks. Verdict: the most secure browser, though too slow for regular use. Share To:
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353 So.2d 341 (1977) Robert CRITNEY v. GOODYEAR TIRE & RUBBER COMPANY. No. 11596. Court of Appeal of Louisiana, First Circuit. November 21, 1977. Rehearing Denied December 28, 1977. *342 William A. Norfolk of Taylor, Porter, Brooks & Phillips, Baton Rouge, for defendant-appellant. Patrick W. Pendley of Freeman & Pendley, Ltd., Plaquemine, for plaintiff-appellee. Before BLANCHE, COVINGTON and CHIASSON, JJ. BLANCHE, Judge. Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company, defendant-appellant, is appealing a judgment awarding Robert Critney, plaintiff-appellee, $1,500.00 in damages and permanently enjoining the company, its officers, agents and employees from causing or permitting any polyvinyl chloride or other substance to escape onto plaintiff's property. In his brief to this Court, plaintiff has requested that the award of damages be increased to not less than $7,500.00. In his petition to the trial court, plaintiff asked for $50,000 in damages and an injunction to enjoin the operation of the plant and to remove the plant. Plaintiff's residence is separated from the Goodyear property by a ditch. He testified that between February, 1976, and March, 1977, polyvinyl chloride powder fell on his property causing damage to the property which had been his home for over thirteen years. In addition to plaintiff's testimony and photographic exhibits showing a powdery substance on his property, Mrs. Critney and three neighbors testified that polyvinyl chloride particulate matter from the Goodyear plant fell on the Goodyear neighboring property with irregular but numerous frequency, at some times covering portions of the ground to a depth of an inch to an inch and a half and permeating the air similar to a thick fog to a density that oncoming automobiles could not be seen on the highway and that "it just comes all in the house, it gets over everything, all in the cars, inside the house, in the bed if the window is up." The evidence indicates that the events had been recurring for years with an increasing frequency during the year and a half preceding trial and reached the point that one neighbor across the street from plaintiff cleaned his residence porch daily to remove the "white fine stuff" by hosing and sweeping. The defendant offered the testimony of its plant manager and personnel manager, who testified that their automobiles parked at the plant had suffered de minimis damage from the polyvinyl chloride powder. Evidently, the trial judge gave more weight to the testimony of witnesses who were residents or nearby residents of the affected property than he did to defendant's employees who derive their livelihood from the defendant and keep their automobiles at this plantsite during their working hours. Goodyear, as defendant-appellant, assigned three errors by the trial court: (1) "failing to find that if an encroachment was being made by Goodyear onto the property of Critney, such was an `inconvenience' which, pursuant to RCC 668-669 was permitted (Article 668) or as to which it was damnum absque injuria." (2) "granted an injunction which will prohibit defendant's lawful activities, absent a showing that such activities will cause irreparable injury." (3) "awarding the sum of $1,500.00 in damages to plaintiff." In considering the first error, we find helpful the words of Professor A. N. Yiannopoulos, Civil Responsibility in the Framework of Vicinage: Articles 667-69 and 2315 of the Civil Code, 48 Tul.L.Rev. 204-206 (1974): "Articles 667-69 form a unit in the Louisiana Civil Code of 1870, and, for a proper understanding, they must be read together. Article 667 prohibits works which cause damage or deprive neighbors of the enjoyment of their property; article 668 permits works that merely cause some inconvenience; and article 669 indicates that, in the absence of a conventional servitude, inconveniences resulting from the emission of smoke or odors may *343 be tolerated or suppressed, depending on police regulations and local customs. Admittedly, lines of demarcation are not clearly drawn among works that cause damage or deprive a neighbor of his enjoyment under article 667 and inconveniences that fall short of that test and must be tolerated under article 668. Further, no clear line of demarcation is drawn between inconveniences that must be tolerated under article 668 and those that may or may not be tolerated under article 669. "Apparently, the redactors of the Civil Code wished to establish the following principles. No one may use his property so as to cause damage to another or to interfere substantially with the enjoyment of another's property (article 667). Landowners must necessarily be exposed to some inconveniences arising from the normal exercise of the right of ownership by a neighbor (article 668). But excessive inconveniences, such as those caused by the emission of industrial smoke or odors, need not be tolerated in the absence of a conventional servitude; whether an inconvenience is excessive or not is to be determined in the light of police regulations and local customs. "According to civilian analysis, the right of ownership has an affirmative as well as a negative side. * * * The affirmative side is the owner's right to do with his property whatever he pleases; the negative side is the owner's right to exclude interferences with his property. These two sides of the right of ownership are implicit in articles 488 and 491 of the Louisiana Civil Code of 1870. * * * It is apparent that article 667 imposes a limitation on the affirmative side of the right of ownership in immovable property in favor of neighboring landowners. Although, in principle, a landowner may use and enjoy his property as he sees fit, he may not exercise his right in such a way as to cause damage to neighbors. Article 668 imposes a limitation on the negative side of a neighbor's right of ownership in immovable property. Although, in principle, the neighbor may exclude any interference with his property, he is bound to tolerate certain inconveniences resulting from the lawful use of another neighbor's property. By imposing limitations on the right of ownership the two articles maximize enjoyment of property in society. If a landowner had unlimited freedom in the use of his property, other landowners could not possibly have the same freedom. Limitations on the use of property thus ensure maximum enjoyment of property by all persons." When we apply the unrefuted testimony of the witnesses as previously recited to LSA-C.C. arts. 668-669, we are compelled to agree that the trial judge was correct in concluding that the encroachment by Goodyear upon the property of plaintiff was, indeed, more than an "inconvenience" and could not possibly be dismissed as being merely damnum absque injuria. As to the second assignment of error, we are convinced that the trial court was correct in ordering the injunction. Irreparable injury includes an injury, whether great or small, which ought not to be submitted to, and which, because it is so large or so small or is of such constant and frequent occurrence, cannot receive reasonable redress in a court of law. Clearly, to permit the continued encroachment on the property of plaintiff with polyvinyl chloride by Goodyear would be to permit irreparable injury which should not be tolerated. The injunction by the trial court is obviously designed to protect plaintiff in the future and is an appropriate remedy deeply embedded in our jurisprudence since the landmark case of McGee v. Yazoo & M. V. R. Co., 206 La. 121, 19 So.2d 21 (1944). The third assignment of error objects to the $1,500.00 award, but we can find no error in this sum for past injury suffered by plaintiff as a neighboring landowner. Based on a careful review of the testimony, we can find no abuse of discretion in arriving at this quantum. Additionally, regarding the quantum, this Court is precluded from considering an increase in the award to plaintiff, *344 inasmuch as plaintiff did not file an answer to appeal timely as provided in LSA-C.C.P. art. 2133. Accordingly, for the foregoing reasons, the judgment of the trial court is affirmed, at the cost of defendant-appellant. AFFIRMED.
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Answer a question Ask a question How do you clean milk from the babies tongue? My baby is 2 months old and is mostly breastfeed, but when she does take the bottle it leaves her tongue really white and I have tried using a wet diaper to wipe it but its still really white. She drinks similac formula. How do you get the tongue clean or do I need to switch fomula? I'm wondering if I should go back to infamil which we started off with but I cant remember if the infamil made her tongue as white as the similac. Any suggestions?? Posted: 03/15/2010 by kaye70 Mom Answers PLEASE research things before posting and/or taking advice from random people... Honey is very dangerous as it can be allergenic AND contain spores which can cause botulism (as one reader already noted). Soda for a baby, rediculous on every account. Too much sodium can cause a baby to end up in the ER. Best bets are just taking your finger with clean water and rinsing baby's mouth out that way, or perhaps glycerin but would double check with your ped. about that one. posted 01/18/2012 by a BabyCenter Member Was this answer helpful? 14 out of 14 found this helpful My son had this problem and I asked my doctor and she said you don't need to clean their tongue at this age. It doesn't matter which formula you use, it'll happen regardless. If it really bothers you (and you feel comfortable with this), you can give your baby a tiny sip of water and it'll clean the tongue. When your baby gets older and starts solids, the white tongue disappears so you don't have to technically do anything about it. posted 03/15/2010 by a BabyCenter Member Was this answer helpful? 12 out of 12 found this helpful A pharmacist told me about using glycerine to clean baby's tongue. Was told to put a little on a clan rag, and use my little finger in rag to remove white stuff, moving finger back and forth. Has anyone every heard about this. posted 10/05/2010 by a BabyCenter Member Was this answer helpful? 9 out of 9 found this helpful I agree it does not depend on formula. At babies r us they have a tiny tongue cleaner for babies, you put it on your index finger its a very soft rubber and it also works as stimulator for the gums (for when the teeth are going to come in). My daughter freaks out when i stick it in her mouth and we end up screaming..... so i say if there is no sign of a thrush forget about it:) posted 07/02/2010 by PVP03 Was this answer helpful? 10 out of 11 found this helpful Although honey is a natural, healthy food that normally cannot support bacterial life, it's important to note that it can carry C. botulinum spores which may be harmful to the undeveloped immune systems of infants. The old practice of dipping pacifiers into honey to soothe crying babies should be aborted. DO NOT give your baby honey. posted 12/28/2010 by a BabyCenter Member Was this answer helpful? 7 out of 7 found this helpful Why would anyone want to clean a newborns tounge?! Just leave it alone it's completely normal for a baby to have a white tounge. posted 05/18/2012 by a BabyCenter Member Was this answer helpful? 9 out of 12 found this helpful I've tried glycerin on a clean wash cloth and it works wonders. posted 10/12/2010 by a BabyCenter Member Was this answer helpful? 5 out of 5 found this helpful I'm breastfeeding exclusively and my 7weeks old baby has milk stained tongue.I's told to use glycerin on cotton to clean his tongue. I tried but I's afraid I's going to hurt his tiny mouth so I just left it alone.I'd rather wait for it to clear up by itself rather than hurt my baby. posted 03/13/2012 by Morvics Was this answer helpful? 5 out of 8 found this helpful My baby is 3weeks old ,i used cotton bud and clean water to clean the white coats on her tongue.and after 2days her tongue was very clean.Simple posted 11/25/2012 by Aanuoluwapo eric-eze Was this answer helpful? 2 out of 2 found this helpful My daughter is 4 months old and only breastfed. The wipes you slip on your fingure will be good with a tad bit of water. posted 02/20/2014 by fm8923 Was this answer helpful? 1 out of 1 found this helpful Answer this question Featured video Your Pregnancy, Week by Week Your Pregnancy, Week by Week Have an account? Log in
dclm_baseline
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il8. Quamvis autem ApoUinariiis a*gre admodiim a prava Theopnschilarum opiiiione imrgclur, piimuni lamen illius auctorem eum iion fuisse fidem fnciunt Conrilii Sirmiensis anni 351, canones ii et i2. Si quis Verbum in camem translatum putet, vel demuta- tionem sustinuisse accipiendo carnem^ anathema sil. Si quis unicum Dei filium crucifixum audiens^ deatitatem eju$ corruptionern vel jntisibilitatem (n^sf) aut de- frequens iiiculcal? At Ari:inis Chrisii diviniLitem ob ea qu» passus est negantibus, iiuro fecissct satis, si hxc in humanam, non in divinam illiiis naturam ce- cidisse dumlaxat respondissei? annon visus esset prin«'.ipium, ut loquuniur, petere? Non tanlum di- cendum, sed ei dcmonsirandum ei erat, prxter na- tiirain infirmam nosirsBque similem, aliam in Clirislo esse longe poiiorem, infirmitatis prorsus nesciam, incorruptibilem, immuiabilem, ciijus poiesiaii nihii non cederet. Hoc tuin opus, iiic labor crnt. Is etinm est totius libri x scopus, cx ciijus poiissimiim co- giiitione pendet intelligentia corum, ob quai caiholi- /vy^ PfOfsul w errons suspicionem venit. Ut autem Cl PRiEFATIO GENERAIJS. OS viutalionan vei iiilerfccdonem susfinuisse dical, ana^ A conveneriL Idem enimipsi in suis dotjmntibussiatnunt. thema nt. Non enlm nnle annuii 560 liacreiicus audire ccepU Apollinarius. 119. El vero quicontra illum scripserunl, Libcra* tus, cap. 5, Gregorius Naz. Or. 51, Atliafiasius sub linem lib. de s»lut;iri advenlu J. C. euin non ulcom- nienti bujus parentem, scd ul imimtorem Ariano- rnm iradidere. Et ex verbis quidem Phoebadii Agcn- iiensis apparet, Potamium blasphemic-c ejusdem fuisse doctoreni. Item si epistolx synodi Sardiccnsis, ea parie qua apud Theodoretum prolixior est, babenda fides; abdicati sunl Ursacius et Vatcns, quod Ver- bum ei Sffiritum crucifixum, vuineralum, et mortuum eMse, et re$urrexisse asseruerint. Eusebium quoque Pamphili Theopaschitarum vesania Imbutum csse Sed Arianornmin asserendacorporisinnnimisusccp* tlone consillnin Eustattiius Antioclicnusapud Tlieodo- retum dial.3, planius reicgit, dum qu^i^rit : Curmagtd faciuntostendereCfiristum corpusinanfmum suscepissef ac respondel ulsi possintid aliqiiibus persuadere, tune affectionummHUiHaMS divino ipsius S|Nr}(iii iribueut^^ faalius periuadeasUt ex immutabHi natura gmtum uon esse quod muiabile est. SiC Gregorius Nni. Or. 51, n. 15, lesiaiur, Giirisuim ab illis iiianimdtum hoiiii- neni prrcdicari, ut passionem divinitati tribuant, tani' qiiam videlicet quod movet, idcm quoque patiatur. Et Leontius de Seciis, act. iii : Idcirco Arianum dogma Christi corpus inanimum esse tradebat, ut humiles hu^ jusmodi voces Christb non ut homini attribueremus, sed scribit Baronius ad nn. 324, n. 109 et 110. Al qiiod B ^ft Deo filio; deque ipsivs sententia Fitius Patre niinor ad hajus rei probaiionem ex Ipsius ad ronstaniinin epistola affert, nihil evinclt. Immo aliud eum sen- sisse, ex libroejusdem iv Dcm. Evang., c. 13, C'ni- modius confecerls. Neque vero hic errorernt oin- niumqui Arlo fovebant communis, sed insigniiim qnorumdam Arinnorum et maxime ADomocorum proprius. 120. Perfidi illlCbrfstl hostes ut prav<m illain doc- trinam fiscilias tuerentur, commenii snnt corpus so- lom sine anima a verbo assumptum esse. Quod cnim hoc commentum Apollinarius nnn finxerit primus, sed ab Arianls acceperii, tesiis est Theodorctus sub Dialogl II initium, ubi ait, Arins et Eunomius creatam volunt VnigeniH divinitatem : solum corpus atsumpsisse deprehenderetur. Codem speciant quoc Pho^bndius Agenn. Hilnrlo u^qualisde cpistola nb oriente el oc- cidente (sive ut conjccliira csl, ad orientem ex occl- denle) traiismissa liahet : Vnus vestrum asserit, carne et Spiritu Christi coagulatis per tanguiiiem Maria^ et in unum corpusredactis^ passibifcm Deum factum. Nc- que enim necesse cst moncamns, Spiritus iiomino hic ▼eterum more naiuram divinnm iiitelligi. Quod nu- tem h«c non unius, sed plurium scntenlia sit, sub- inde signiflcnt his verbis : Vos quidquid de homine ejus dictum est,'Deo applicatis : ut Deus ipse honiiiiii itnbeciUitate societur, forte saucietur. Iti Deum more aiilmoi ac vice animne cum cnrne ex Maria acccpta conjunctum seniientes, slc eiim passibilem facinm dicunt. Neque Augiistinum f^igit hnec Arinnoritm opi- C cogitare potiierunt, quorcodo anima, in quam ex so nio, quam aliis minus notam existimavii : sic porro habet lib. de hseres. c. 19 : In eo autem, quodChris- tum sine arama camem accepisse arbitrantur Ariani^ mims noti sunt, nec adversus eos ab aliquo inveni de hac re fttisse certatum. Sed hoc veruin esse et Epipha- mus (hner. 69, nnm. 49 et 50, et in Ancorato, n. 53) non tacuit, et ego ex eorum quibusdam scriptis et coUo^ cutionibus certissime comperi, Nihilo tamen niinus hoc alii ptnres comperere. Athanasius hanc corum sen« tcntiam sub initinm libri de salutari adventu apertc sic prodit : Arius eamem solam ad occuttationem dei- tatis eonfitetur : et pro nostro interiori homine^ id est anima, Verbum dicit in carne fuiste, passionisque sen- tMm et ab inferis resurrcctionem divinitati audens ad- corporibus nulla potestns est, ex carnis socieiate pos- sioni fit obiioxia. Sed maneai Arianos seiisissc, quod Deus Verbum^ ut loquitur Hilariiis lib. x, de Triii., n. 50, fn animam defecerit; hocque cos idco seiisissc, iit Ghrlstum secundum naturain divinam esurilioni, tiinori, tiisiiii», dolori suhjiccrent. 12^. Quod licel jnro salis superque conslct, huju^ tamen rei verilalem ex schismaiicorum quoriimdain adversiis Gyrillum coniiimeliose debncchnntium jii- verit {Epist ad Rufum T. 3, Conc. Labb., p. 739) iU luslrnre mendaciis. Paulo quidem iongius est eoriim lestimonium : sed ad rem muUum fncit. Docet, niunt de Gyrillo, divinitatem unigeniti filii Dei passam csse^ non autem humanitatem : cum divinitas intiabitant pas- teribere. Ea qiioque in re Eustalliio Antiocheno, D<tone< corporis quasi proprii sibi attribuerit, ei tamen Gregorio Nazianz. Phocb.idio probe noti fiierc Arinni. 121. Hi ab Apollinaristis hoc tantum dissidebant, qood primarium apud Apollinaristas decretum essel, Vcrbum sine nnima corpus assumpslsse; Ariani vero id ipsum iniiium secnndario docercnt, ut pnimaris eorum sentenlin de iiiflrma Yerbi divinitate ohtine- ret. Discrimen hoc inter utrosqoe noniiihil tangit Athnnasius sub flnem lib. de salutari adventu J. G. ubi eos, qui Verbum vices animae supplevisse sentic- bant, refellensait : lia futurum est^ ut vutneratlo cor- paris pastio iptius Verbi habeatur. Hinc enim profieiS' di9>r quod Dernn pastrnn esse asseveratis. Congrua voXf il ^um opHms votdeceat et quee cuvnArianis putcherrime in propria natura nihit ipta pateretur. Addit prwterea^ ex divinitate et humanitate unam factam esse naturam.., Ad hcec eos exsecratur^ qui evangcticas apostoticasque voces de Chriito Domino distinguunt, ut humiles qui- dem ad humanitatemt divinas vero ad Christi diviuita- tem referant. Quod Ariani ct Eunomiani senticntes^ humitesque dispensationis voces ad divinitatem refereii' teSy Deum Verbum creaturam et facturam^ atteriusque substantias et Patri imequalem esse affirmare non dubi' tarunt» Quce vero blaspliemia ex hisce principiis conse^ quatur, quivis facite intettigit. Nam et naturarum indu' citur confusio^ et Deo Verbo atlribuitur ittud : Deus Deus meiuz^ u% t^^ dereilq;ttAU\ tne^ el \V\ud ; ^oxtt es PfLfiPATIO GlLNEaALIS. M mU » posiibHe ett^ tranteat a me catix isie : rursum A qui asurunt non de aternitate este prolatunif neque de fames, sitis, angelica confortatio^ etc. Quce perspkua cumArn et Eunomii impietate congruere facile quis vi- derit, His iU prneinissi8,qnidHiiarius, libro x de Tri- nit., sibi proponatquaeve eisententia sit, facilius de- • prebendetur. V. HilariusdeChristitrittitia^ metu^ dotore^ etc^ con* tra hmeticos qui ea Verbo tribuebant^ disputat. Qui eis resistat. 123. In duobus praecipue locis Hilarius metum, do- lorein, tristitiam* aliasque liomanx infirmiiaiis af- fectiones removere a Christo videtur, in Matlhaeum Tidelicet cap. 31, et libro de Trinilate decimo. At utrobique contra haereticos, qui bsc ad ipsius divi- in/initate patemm substantiw exstitisse, sed ex nuUo per eumqui eum creavii effectum; ut aisumptus ex nihilo sii, et cceptus ex opere. et confirmatus in tempore : eS ideo in eo doloris anxietas, ideo Spirilus passio cum eorporis passione. Unde sicut illi creatiim sibi finxe- rani Unigeniddiviiiiiatcm. eam consequenier pa«sam et crucifixam abstruebaiit ; ila ipse ubi eam iacreatam demonsiravit et »ternam, longe efficacius <oncliidit: Mori igitur nihil in Deo potuit^ neque ex u metus Deo utlus est, Cur« quaeso, addidit ex se : nisi quia ex parte homiiiis, cui Deus iu Christo conjunclus est, et metum et mortem Deo esse potuisse noii ambigeret ? 125. Adeo non ambigebai, ac rem Scripiuris ita constanlem et evideniem exislimabat, ut huic pro- nitatem referebant, eum confligere minime obscurum B bandae non iminoraius, statiin ad bujusmodi afTeciio- esu Quippe in Matthsrum statim ab initio cap 31, declarat, sibi cum iis rem esse, quorum ea opinio esl^ quod cadere propter se mceslitudo in Deum po/Mtf- n/, eumque futurm pauionis metus fregerit , quia dixe' fit : Tristis est^ etc., quique votunt ex infirmitatecorpO' ris asrumnam Spiritui adhcerere. Neque adversarios alios toto libro x de Trinitate sibi debellandos pro- ponit. Nam cumdocirinam toli sects commuiiem superioribus libris expugiiasset, jain in hoc aggredi- tur non qiiod Ariani omnes, sed quod plerique eoruni in Cbrisium magis impii dercndebant : quo- rum argumenta prius quam sibi opponai, sic num. 9, exponit placita : Votunt etnm plerique eorum non in natwra eum impassibtlis Dei fuisse ; ut qui timuU et iium causa^ explorandas prosilierit ; sic eniin prose- quitur : Quia moestum fuisse Donunum tegimus, eausas moestitudinis reperiamus. Quibus perqui<>ilis subjicit {num. A) : Tristis ergo est usque ad mortem. .Yon ita- que mors, sed tempus mortis in metu est. Rei aulcm» quae non est, causae a nemine sauo requinintur. De Commentario in Mattha^um hsec paiica sulficiaiit. 126. Quod vero in unos illos divinitaiis Verbi le- meratores iniendatur decinius de Trioitaie liber, pne- terea quae diximus, Hilarius ipse in hujus libri argu- mentoinilioOperis sui praeposito saiis decbirat {lib. i, n. 31 et 32), in liunc moduiii : Quia ex passionis (Christi) genere et professione quofdam, per stulta m- tetligenticB sensum, ad conlumetiam divince in DonUno doluit^ non fuerit in ea potestatis securilate quce non ti- G Jesu Christo naturce virtutisque rapuerunt ; ea ipsa de-^ metf vet in ea Spiritus incorruptione.qucenon dolet^ sed inferioris a Deo patre natura, et humana passiorus trepidaverit metu, et ad corporatis pcena congeniuerit atroeitatem. Tum eorum subnectii objecla, quae libro loti malerinm praebent. Atqtii haereticos hujusmodi oppitgnare, Christum secundum humanam naturam passum fuisse propugnare est. Cum emm^ iiiqtiit Gre- gorius Nyss. Or. 3, contra Eiinoin. relatus a Theodo- reto, dial. 3, duplex ex ambigua sit opinio, divinilasne, an humanitas passa sit; unius rejectio alterius erit eonfirmatio. 124. Hiiariuin aiilem ab una Chrlsti divinitate nos- tras infirmiiates rejecisse inde perspicuum est, quod ubi dixit hnereticos velle ex assumptioiie corporis x- monstranda fuernnt ab his impiisume inteliecta. Hic igitur uiiiis est libri x scopus, ut haeretici, qui Christi in passione stia gesia diciaque ad divinx ipsius na- turx coiittimeliaiii rapiieruiit, convincamur ea impiis- sime intellexisse. Quatenus auteni ca impiissiine in» tellexerint, apertius subinde significat : quod nimirum divinm professionis naturasque immemores, ad argu- mentum impietatis suw, dispensationis ge%ta et dicta te» nueruntf quac vorba si cui ambigua sunt, conferatcum bis lib. IX, num* 5 : Hinc itaque fallendi simplices atque ignoranles hcereticis occasio est^ ut quce ab eo se- cundum hominem dicta sunt , dicta eue secundum iia- turie dimnce infirmitatem mentiantur. Unde lioc con- fici potest argumenium : Proflietur Hilarius se H- ntmnainndh.-erere divinitati, eos sugillat his verliis : ^ bro x, cum haereticis dispuiaiurum, qui qu« dispen- Ac si virlutem illam incorruplce substantuB imbecitli' talis suce sorte assumptio cnrnis infecerit, et asternitas naturam fragiUtatis acceperit. Quce si ad metum tristis est, si ad dolorem infirma, si ad mortem trepida , jam et corrnptioni subdita erit (cap. 31 in Matth. n. 2). Tuin Deum corriiptioiiis aut demutatioiiis prorsus ex- pertem esse ostendit : at de bomine nihil omniuo co- gitat. Imo se eamdem bumanx Christi naiune prx- rogativam tribuere nolle satis indicat, dum hanc Arianorum doctrinam fatetur ei opinioni consenta- neam esse, qiia fllium Dei creatum et non aeternum eredunt. Sed eorum, inquit (num. 3), omnis hic sensus eu^ ut opinentur metum mortis in Dn fiUuminadisu^ saiionis dicta gestaque sint, in Deuiii cadcre velint; aique haeretici, cum quibus ei disceptatio est, rapiunt quidquid de Christi timore, tristitia, doloreest scrip- tum , ut eum infirinuin Deiim ostendant : concedit igiturea omnia, quae de Christi timore, tristilia, do- iore scripta sunt, dispensatioiiis dicia gestaqtie esse, hoc est, in homiiiem a Verbo assumptum cadere. Sed ad librum ipsum veniamus. i27. Quemadmodum Hilarius in eo a pra^dictis bx- reticis meutis aciem non deflectit ; ita neque debet lector ab eorum sentemiis animum avertere. Varias quidem sunt, sed quae ad duas commode revoceniur. Verbom enim alit iu cum carne eonfundunt, ui ex 65 PRiEFATlO GENERAUS. 60 eoriim sententla (num. 50) de $e defecerit Deut Ver- A quod ini volunl egregii doctaret, ut foctui ^t teHieet btm^ dum corpui officio anim<B vivificat; alii ila ab ho- mine diTidiinl, ut sicut in prophetis Spiritus prophe- Am^ ita in Jesu Verbum Dei fuerit. 128. Qui in hacc atlenderit, iion laborabil in pluri- mts locis, in qiiibus ssppe iiegare videiur Hilarius, qnod demoiistrare dumtaxat vtilt ex adversariorum placitis explicari nullo paclo posse. Nequc latebit, cur, T. g, num. 10, priusquam objecla diliial, adver- sarios aggrediatnr his verbis : Et interrogo eoa, qiti hoe ita esastimant, an ratione subtistatf ut mori timue- nf, qui omnem ab Apostotit tmorem moriis appellent ad gloriam eot tit martyrii adhortatut.,, tum deinde quem dotorem mortit timeret, potr^tatit suo! libertate moriturut? Hoc eiiim argiiinenli genere, quod in eo Dominut et Deut notter ex hac tubttantiarum permix^ tione pattibitis : quorum patronns apud Theodoretum dialogi 3 initto primum afOrmat, Chrittut ideo car- nem attumpsil^ ut id quod erat impatibile pattionem tuttineret; ac deinde ab Orthodoxo interrogatus , Cujut exittimanda ett tattitudof divinitatit, an corpo- ritf respoiidet : Non audeo unita dividere. Orthoduxut : Divinw igitur^ ut apparet , noturce tastitudinem tribuit. Eraruttet : Sic mihi videtur. Hirc quippe non oblilus, fiirile depreliendet, nalurarum in unoChrisio disiinc- tionem conjunctionemque eam tanium ob rausam ab Hilario tam operose explicari, ut hinc raliouem red- dai, cur Deo impatibili aiiribuaniur pnssioues, quao in unnm lioiiiinis naiuram proprie cndant. Diim igi- libro frequens est, veluti gladio ancipiii Todiuntur B tnr Christum Deum ex passionibtis corporis nullum senleniiarum etiamsi adversariim patroni : cum neu- tris soccorrat, unde Christi virtutem simul cum in- flnnitatc compouant. Certe dutn num. 55 et 56, hae- reticos illos hac ratione persequitur; ipsum fletus Christi veriiaiem prorsus respuissc credfres, nisi et ad calcem num. 55 adjecisset; Et tamen vere Jetnm Ckrittum fietu non dubium est^ et num. 56 sic clau- sisset : Non ett vivificaturi fiere, nec glorificandi do* iert : et tamen vivifieat, qui et fievit^ et doluit. i^. liia autem argnmeiitandi raiione eo usus est iibentius, quo magis idonea erat ad arroganliani eo- mm retuiideudam, qui omnia so Chrisii mystt*ria comprehendere jactitantes, e:i pro libito deniiiebaiit. Qaod enim Athanasius in exiiu libri de saluiari ad- venia J. C. obscarius dicit : Sfo/fV/i, qui divinitati ejut G pattionem adscribunt, aut humanitati ejus fidem non habent, aut qai unum in duo teparantf aut qui carnit ^mt dimentiotiem eomntur facere^ et quantum et quo' modo prteter taerat Scripturat definiunt; illustralur ex huc Uiiarii libro decinio, cujus poslrenia pirs tota in iis c<iercendis occupatur, qui aliam sibi de Christo scicDtiain usurpaiit, quam quas Scripturis reve- lata esi. iSO. Neque taiiium os iiiiqua loquentium obstruere conteiitus, post quam ill(»s qua^stione n. iO. proposita nonuihil torsit, ad ipsorum opiniones fundilus cver- tendas eonveriitur, jactati|ue fundamenta, quibus ve- ritas adstrantur. Quippe continuo siiigularem Christi onaro coneeptumque considerans , ipsum verum doloris sensiim percepisse adversus ha^reticos illos propiignat, perinde est ac si diceret : Vos Cbristum ea natur» proprietate destiiuitis quae pati nesciat, quia Vcrbuni vel confundilis cum carne, vel ab ea separatis : sed falsa est vestra opinio ; etsi enim cum corpore ita conjunctum esl, ut ei attribuaniur pas« sioiies hominis, et propler hoc putetur dolere ; adeo tameu inconfiisuni pen^everat, ut cum corptis eas ex- cipiat passiones, ex quibiis per se sequatur doior, eo in propriam ipsius naturam eflectu careant. Haec ex^ plicatio, qtiam nunc argumento probabili praestnmiis, sed ex poi^tremis libri paginis certa ratione licebit demonstrare, toto libro intelligendo non paruro con^ ducet. 131. Negotium tamen facessit, quod co loci de singulari Christi coiiceptione ita disserit, ut non di* vinam tanlum unigeniti Dei naturam, sed et corpus ipsius a communi passionuin nostrarum loge eximera videatur. Et his quidem primum adco sumus coro* moti, ut ab eo vindicando nos poene absierritos jam fassi simus. Verum haereticoruin coiitra quos con« greditnr senientias relegentes, deprehendimus Gbris-* ttiro ab iis prxdicari meruin hoininem , qni quia et corput et anima Adm in peccato fuit, camem quoque Adcs atque animam acceperit^ et in cujut animam DO- MiNANS metus trittitiw imminenlit inciderit^ etc. Nec dcinceps latuit, quam salva et integra flde suum etiam corpori Chrisli privilegium tueatur. 132. Cum enim tantum ob originis peccaium me- Deam honiinem(|ue perfectum ostendit, naiuris ita^tus, tristitia, dolor nostri dominantur; Christuro distinctts, ut VerlH virtns ac natura a se non defece- rit; iia auilis, ut non sit alius filius Dei, alius homi- iiis filias. Qiiorsum, quxso, ad removendam a Christo passionam nostrarum ignominiain, natura- ruffl in eo distinctio coii jiinctioque asseratur ? Ne no- bis excidat, illiim eis resistere haereticis, qiios Phoe- iiadlos alloquens ait : Non distinguentet Dominicce potentia dnp^cem ttatum in tua unumquemque pro- prietate dittanlem, quidqmd de homine ipniut dictum csl, Deo applicatit^ ut ipte Deut homini imbecitlitate eoeietnr. Et idcirco duplicem hunc ttatum non con» pmctumf $ed eonfutum vultit videri ; et aliquanlo pott : Nan ergo tit Spiritut caroy ncc caro Sptritut^ etiam secunduro hominem dominnniibus illis pertur- batioiiibus obnoxium non fuisse recte defendit, qaem ex roncepiionis modo demonstrat ab origliiis nosiras viiiis absnluttim. Hinc quod ait num. 27 ; An in eor* pore ejut infirmitat fuit, ad cujut occnrsum connlernata pertequentium agmina coneideruntf intclleximtis ex proxitne subnexin, Quam igitur infirmitatem DOMiNii- TAM hujut corpori credit^ cujut tantam habuil natura virtutem ? ut non omnem a Christi corpore infirmi- latem rcmovent (alins pugnaret ipse sectim), sed tanttim dominantem. 133. Eodem specut illad num. %i:Attumpta earo^ id ett totut homOt pattionum ett perm^tta naturit; nec 61 |>Bi£FATIO GENeRAUS. 68 tamn ita permissa, ul paitionum conficeretur inju' A <uum secum in regno paraditi recepil. Mortuus eit; tcd secundum Scripluras resurgen» a dextris Domini Do- minus assedit {Vidc similia apud Gregorium Nas» Orat. 35, p. 675). riis : quafti dicerdt , Assumpliis liomo lum secundum corpus, lum seeundum animam passionibus nostris peritiissus esl quaienus naiurales sunt, non qualenus injuriosse aique coniumeliosas. Porro homini naiuralo esi» ut cum pntiinr corpns, anima moiu aliquo mo- veaiur : al quod moium iilamy quoites vuli, compri'- mere non valeai, injariosiim ei, uipoie poccaii pcana, aique CDntunieliosum esl. Eo pacio licuit oum. 16 nogarc quod Gbrisius senserit dolorem corporis nosiri; ac iTum. 47 dicere : Et pro nobis doUt^ et non doloris nosiri dolet tensu, Noster quippe dolor necessario nos piingii, nobisquc inviiis et relncianlibus dominatur ; ipsiiis vero voluniariusomnino fuit ac sponte assump- ius. Oblaius enim quando voluit, ui pro polesiate 155. His auiem in locis sic verba sua rormat, ui cuni cas in Ghristo inflrniiiates et afTectiones negeiy quac homincm dedcceant Deo subsiantialiier sociatum, earuin tainen in co veritatem fuisse sxpius confir- met : adeo ut prxdieii numcri 67, hoc aii exordium : Passus quidem est unigenitut Deut qum homines paii possunt, Quod rursuin evidens est ex iis qmc n. 55 et 56 de Ghrisii fleiu babet. Sxpe etiam ex adjnncits inielligiiur, enm ab uiia illa iiaiura, ciijus virtus pror» sus divina esl, omnem iufirmititis noiani removcre: ut V. g. cum aii num. 34 : Non habet hunc metus cor^ animani posuii, iia et assuinpsit dolorem. Imo si B poralit, penetrantem quidem inferos^ ud ubique natu- virra est Augusiini dclinilio, qui spoiite patilur, do* lerc iiegaiidiis esi. Dolor cnim carnis, uli dclinil lib. XIV dc Givii. Dei, cap. 15, tantummodo offensio est aninia ex carne^ et quofdam ab ejus passione dissensio : ticut aninuB dolor, quce tristiUa nuiuupalurj dissensio ab his rebus qua nobis nolentibut acciduut, His iia in- teilectis, nulla ei r;ftti vcl levis suspicio remanebii in iis, qux Uilarius in commendanda singulari Ghristi conceptione edisserii. Indeenim meriio probat, Deum huminem assumpsisse» et assumendo a se non defe- cisse; oc proinde esse aiiquid in Ghristo, quod expers sii infirmiiaiis nosirae. Neque niiuiis eongruenter fidei nosirde domonsirat, Gliribtuin eiiam secundum ho- miiiem, cum ex Verbi viriule ci non nostro coiici- rce virtute distentum ; ci num. 44 : Non est itaque in ea natura^ quas supra hominem est, hutnanai trepidationit aasdetoi. 136. Yerum ex iis locis, in quibus iristilifle, timo* ris, ac doioris Ghristi causas aut exquirit aut expli- cal, longe cenius persuadeiiiur, eum ab bumana Mediaiorisac Uedenipioris iiostri naiura htrumaffec- liuoum dedecus ianiuni» non veritatem auferre. In hoc porro situm erat iliud dedecus, ut aut propier se dolcrei, aui dolore doniinanie conficcreiur. Sane, ut jam observaium« prociil abesl quis ut irisiem aut do- leniem neget, de quo quairit unde irisiis sit aui unde doleat. Ne vero singnlaris videretar haec illius in bisce causis expiicandis senieniia; buc refereiKla essent piendi modo originem habeai, passionibus nosiris G verba Ambrosii lum iib. x, iii Luc. n. 57 et Gt, tuin obiioxium non fuisse, quamvis eis se sponie pcr- miserit. 134. In hoc poiissimum de singulari Ghrisii con- cepiionc argtinienio versatur usque ad num. 26. Tum rcdit raiio, 4|ua primuin usus esi, quseque in toio li- bro principatum obiinet : qua nimirum lixreticis aut Duilara aui exinaniiam esse Gbrisii divinitiitem affir- uiaiuibus osiendii, in omnibus ipsius gesiis ac dictis, eiiam quibiis hominem se et infirmum significat, quamdaiQ aliam iniemosci naturam, qu;c omnem a se infirinitatem depellere, et nullam iion valcai exserere viriutem. Ui cnim observai, dum nascitur, ortum diicil ex virgiae et Spiriiu sancto ; dum esurit, soio jussu arefacit arborem; flumina ex so praebei aqux lib. u, de Fide, c. 7, n. 54; Augusiini in Psal. xl, n. 6; Hieroiiymi in Maiibaeum c. 36, a Bedain eum- dein iocum exscripti. Sed quod Augusiinus loco me- moraio habet, eonferat cui libueril cum libro Hilarii X, II. 10, verba antem Ambrosii, Uieronymi, Bed» cnm num. 57 ejusdem libri, necnon cum cap. 31 iii Maith. Inierim ad finein dicii libri x exfiendendum properemus. 137. Tandem ubi haereticis in unam Gbrisii infir- mitatem respicientibus, muliimodam illius virtutem objecit, eosque convicit, nihil in sua ipsorum fide sup- petcre, unde in dictis gesttsque lam diversis se exiri- ceni ; expediiam eis viam apcrit in ficelesi» fide, quaa ciim disiinctas in una Ghristi persoiia naiuras confi- viv», etiam dum siiit; corpus gerit, ei calcai undas; D leaiur, in coinponendi rerum iain contrariarum pu flet, et ianien gaudet de Lazari morte; moritur, ai neino ei aufert animam, sed ipsc iradit, ejusque re- sumendas potestaiem liabet. Alia hujusmodi |>assim dispersa legere est : ex quibus hic seligimus, qu» nuni. 67 pressius ei conclusionto in modum sic habet: Natus ex Virgine Ckrittut ett ; ted teeundum Scriptu- ras eaneepiut de Spiritu taiiete ett. Fletnt Chrittut ; ted eecnndum Scriptttrat, ul in eo quod fievit^ grutulalut tit. Et esurivit Christut; sed tecundum Seripiurat tine eibo in non habentem (ruetut arborem Deus operatut est. Passus Christus est ; sed secundum Scripturat tunc a dextrit Virtutis testurut $tt. Derelinqui te ad ntortem qucttut eit ; ad tecuHdum Hcripturat tuuc confettorem gna iinn laborat. Unut euim, inqnit num. 62, atque idem ett Dominus Jetut Chrittus Verbum caro faelum^ teipsum per hosc universa significans : qui dum ad mor' temdeielinquitetigmficat.homoeu; duMvero homoett^in paradite Deut regnet, etc. Ei in exitu ^iisdem nuineri. Habemut in saeramento FHii hominit et Filii Dei et mori regnanlem, et regnare morientem. Et deioceps ad finem usque totus est in comniendanda et exponenda bac Ecclesix fide. Unde liquet qaorsum primis libri sui paginis hsreiioos adorsiis sii, qui naturas Ghriati aut confuadebaat, aut dividebant : scilicei ut convulsis eojpum praesidiiSf fundamenu jaceret caibolicae fidea, qua cum Deus ob conjunciionem cum bomiiie vere 00 PRiEFATIO GENeRAUe. tO passuft el ernetfixttl dieatur, passus lamcn creditur A «' proficiat forma ieroi , iiofi ii( Chmiut , qm in fortaa salTft ec integni diviniuiis suu^ naiura. llinc doclrina illius sanus el orihuduxs Hdci prorsus consenlanea •pprolKilur. Qtiod ut planius iiat, vocabuiorum non- nuilonim vi> est expendenda. VI. Qwd Hilano sit patsio seu pali, quid C/irii/ii», ^ifid Chrisli nalura aut virtus. 138. Non aiobigue expiicai ipse libro de Synodis n^' 49. ({oid passionis nomine sibi velit, dum ad 8ir- niiensis concilii canonem xii , subjicit: Absolute 0$- Itnditnr^ cur Verhuin^ licet earo factum «t(, non tamen tra$islatum futrit in carnenu Cum enim hcec passioHum genera inftrmitafem carnis afliciant , Deut tmmen Ver- kum caro faetus non potuit a te dematabilis esse pa- Dei erat^ Cubistus esse non mancal ; cum formam servi non nisi Cbb stus acceperit, Plura liuc refcrre esset siipervacaneuni , cum quisque boc per se pra>6tare jaiii iuoiiitus valcal. 141. Hac loqiiendi railone ideo rorsiian usus est, f|uod Chrisius persons iiomen esl , netiue alia in eo porsona est nisi Verbi. Vel etiani ad tuendain Christi divinitatem toius intenius , nibil in eo iniueri sole- biit libeniius , quain quod in ipso divinum est. Uiide dulce Chrisii iiomen Deuiu ipsi sapiebat, Deum reso- nabal. Qua in opinione non mediocriier confirmamur liis ejusdeiu libii n. 5, verbis: Hinc itmque fulUndi simplices atque ignorantes hafretids occasio cst^ ut quce ab eo secundum hominem dicia tunt , dicia esse secmn- Henio. Non emm idipsum est pati , et demutari : quia 1) dum naiurcB ditincB infirmitalem inentimitur : et quia omntm earnem passio cujusque generis demutet sensu , doiore^ tolerantia. Verbum autem quod caro facium esl, iicet se passioni tubdiderit , non tamen demutatum etl patsibilitate patiendi, Nam paii potuit, el passibile este non potuit : quia patsibilitat naturce infirmit tiqnificatio ett ; pattio autem est eorum qucs sint illata perpestio : qmm quia indemmtabilis Demt ett , cum tamen Verbum caro fmetum tit , hahuerunt in eo pattionis materiam timepatiibilitatis infirmitate, Manet itaque indemutabHit eiimm in patmone natura : quia auctori suo indifferent et impastibilit essentice nata tubttmntia est. 130. An bic Verbuiii paii potuisse conlessus , pas- siliilc iHHi fuiBse congruenier dixeril, non est insti- liiUe qu;esiioni$. Foric ad bunc loqucndi inodum uuus atque idem est loquens omnia quas loquatur^ ni SE irso eum locutum etse eoniendanl, Cur, qucso, ea qus • Chrisio secuiidum bominem a se assufiiptum dicia siint, ab eo dicta esse de te ipto negett Non ideo saiie quia Verbi hominisque assumpti iion unam per- sonani seniiat, cum hinc ab lisereiicis faiiendi ansam arripi conqueraiur : sed potius quia assuinptum , ac proiiide velut adventiiium ei extroneum » tn Christo spcciet » quidquid in eutn non conveait ut Verbuin ac Oeus est. In hoc ioqtiendi modo Ambrosium ooiisen- llentem baliet. Qnippe in Lucani, lib. x, n. 61, faacc Cbristi verba , Trittit eti mima mem , et furbata est onima mea perpendens ait : Non ergo tutcipient , nd suuepim turbaiur. Anima enim pattiombut obnoxia^ i^fMClus eftt, quo oinuein bxroticis :ulilum privclu- C diviuitat libera, Denique Spwitut prompiut^ caro auiem derett qui Verbnm assuiiiplione cariiis in propria snb^tantia sua paiibile faciuiu esse seiitiebanl. At vcro cuin ex arbilrio pendeani noininum deflnitiones, iiihil esl discriHiiiiis , ubi singiila disiincie explicala siiui. Neque obscurum esi , passioncm id ab eo vo- can , quod Verbnin denoniinet pnssiim , passiliiiilatem vcri», quod iiisnmiiiet Verbi naiuram afiiciat ac de- muiet. Quo fiosito, Verbum ex passione carnis pati- biie neqiiaquam fuisse recte iiegai. At boc impassi- biliiatis privilegium uni Verbo se vindicare satis si- giiificat, dum iilud ipsi ea una rniione tuelur, qiiod nalura illius indemutnhilis sit. Imo cum concedii ^ i^iiia omnem carnem pattio cujusque generis demutei dolore^ tolerantia^ faleturque Verhum, qtiod infirma. Trittit autem ett , nou ipss . nd anima. €um uiroque facit Augustinus cum pluribus iorls, lum Diaxime in Psal. xxxvii, n. 11, iibi babei: Non enim 8E iPhKChrittus demonstravit in ierrm^ sed demontiravit carnem suam. Ita Jiisliiius apologio: i, iailio,Christiet JesH iioinina disiinguonda C8i»e, et iioe ad carnem, illud veni ad diviniuilem referendum tradil: FHiut Deiy inquit, qm tolut proprie dicitur filiut^ Christus quidem ex eo , quod per illum Deut omnia conformm' verit atque ornanerit appeliatur.... Jbsus vero et liomi" nit et Servatoris nomen et detignationem habet. 442. Ex hac observatione sequitur, ut quod ilibi- rius de Clirislo simpliciler arftrmat vel negai , ad di- viiiam iisius naturam iit plurtmuni rererendum sil. earo faciuin esi, se subdidisse passioni ; fatetur ^ Si aiiipm buic quod de passioniii vooabulo proxime Cbristuro , secnndum assumptum hominem , demula» lum esse tensu , doiore » iolerantia. Sicut enim Ver- bani caroem ractom cum dicil, lotnm hoiniiiem a Yerbo assumpium inielligit; it:i inlelligii totum bomi- iiem a Verbo sulNlitum esse passioni , cum Verbiim earnem faclumdicit sesepassioni subdidisse. Axsumpra curo, iiiquit lib. x , de Trin. n. it4, id ett iotut homo^ pmttionum est permitta naturit» 440. Si altenderis deinde quid Chrittus aptid Hila« riom sonet, eom boc vocabulo simpliciter posito so- iaoi Verbi naturam intelligere ac signiflcare solere animadvories. Hiijtts rei perspicuum estexemplum in kis lifa« is de Trin., n. U : Fumcumtio eo ffrmfidi. observ.uuni esi adjunxeris; haud «gre audies Chris- luin hiibuikse corpus ad paiieiidum , ac pat»sum esse, sed natupam nen babuisse ad dolendum. Ilis enim verbis nihil tibi orcurret aliud, nisi Verbum in Chrisio capax quidem esse passionis, si qiiidem car- nem patibilem assumpsit; sed non capax esse doloriSy cuin in naiuram ejus iiequaqiiam cadat demutatio. 445. Interdum etiam reminisei juverity soio carnis vel corporis nomine loiam naturam humanain « di« vinam vero s|>iritus aut »lernitatis vocabulis affipe signiflcari. 444. Longe majeris momeDti est voets ttmMtrm no- liiia. HiilluB intelligeniiam ad assequenda Hihirii dicla 71 PRi£FATIO GENERAL1S. 7« necessarlam esse advertit ITunaldiis itpnd Philtppnm A ^o fuU, naiurte noitrte auumpUo al; cnmque iii bonae Spei abbatem , sed ipse non saiis perfeciam ha- buii. Porro naturam Ciiristi dispensaiitini ct assump- laeinfirmiiaii, sicui natiiralia illius aitributa assump- lis» ab Hilario coiistanler nppoiii pluribus exemplis liquet. Hinc lib. ix, n. 53, omnia Clirisii prap.iiomina et cogntiroina in naturalia et assumpia pariiiur. Et lib. X, defeiidens Chrisitum iii forma Dei siinui et in forma servi esse, quodis<rrimine uiramque iilain for- mani in se conlincat, sic aperit n. 22 : /n forma cnim $ervi e<(, ^«t et in forma Dei eu : et cum hoc iHATCiRiE, iUud vero DiSPENSiiTioifis sily etc. Rursuni n. 65: Ha" tem in se uno eodemque , per DisPENSATiONEif aique NATDRAM , tN Dci formu el in forma urvi^ etc; n. 66 : Qiit ciiifi EX DisPBifSATiONE homo esset , maneret tamen Psal. Lxviii , n. 25 , hoc dictum , quod neque formm servUis assumptiotanquam genuinw origiruscondiiionii» que natura est , ea ratioiie prnbel , quia id , quod a&' sumptum est , non proprietas interior </t, sed esterior accesvo : consenianea slbi loquitur lib. ix de Trin. n. 7, cuin res liominis assumpti res natura: nostra^ res autem divinas naiurw swb vocat iii liiinc moduin : Homonalus secundum con$ueiudinem nalune nostrm locuius est. Nam tametsi in partu et passione et morte NATURiE NOSTR^ rcs peregerit ; res tamen ipsas omnes vif ittle NATURiE siJJE ^tfMiV , dum sibi ipse origo naS' eendi est , dum pati vult quod eum pati non ticet , dum moritur qui vivit, ii7. Jam iiaque perspicuum est, qui salva fide BX N4TURA Dcus ; ct iiiox .' Ut cum infirmiias esset ex B dixerit in Psal. cxxxviii, n. 3: AMvmpifo auteminfir' forma tervi^ et natura maneret ex forma Dei, li5. Hsec si observasset Erasmus, cum iii P^al. Lxviiiy offendit n. 9 : Non fuit ergo in unigenito Deo naturalis tn/lrmilai, sed assumpta, et n. i8: Cunctce nostreg, qum in eo fuerunt. in/irmitaies non naturales tunt , sed assumptjs ; minime reclainass«*t : Quomodo non naturates ei qui naiuram aseumpsitf Iniellexisset quippe eas non homini assumpto , sed Verbo assu- meiiti negari naturales; ideoque vocari assumptas, quia eas , naturam cariiis assumendo , in se assump aerit, a quibus antea ex natura sua alienas erai. Ut enim ait Augustinus in Psal. xciii, n. 19 : Dens uni- genitus Irtfliliam lic assumpsit^ quomodo camem, At" quiy ut loquiiur ililariiis nOi»ier in Psai. lxviii, n. 9, mitatis non fecit infirmum ;quia allud est naturam esse, aliud assumpsisse naturam : et extra generis necessiia- tem votuntatis accessio est . Neque magis suspeclum est illiid Tract. Psal. liv, niim. 6 : Vniversa.qnm mortis nostrce sunt ac timoris , ita pertutit, ut in eum inciderent hmc potius , qnam inessent , dum in/irmitat nostra magis est^ quam naturatis in Deo est. Inciduiit quippe infirinit:ites nostrai ia persnnam divinam, cui attribuuiitur; sed in propria illius n;itura non insuiit : dum illis ea subj^icet nalura , quae de nobis assumpia est. Facilius quoque jam assentieiur quis- que , Hilarium in iis locis , in qiiibus Cbrisium om- nino a nostris iiifirmitatibus eximere videbatur, tnn- tum naiuram illins proprlam , non eani quam a nobis ii/i€n«m a fiafnrii stta corptu nsiiimpsii. Undeet in epi-G suscepit, ab iisvindicare. Quod iit magis ac ma- stola hionysio Alexandrino adscripta tom. i ConciL, pag. 854, Chri^ius non natura homo, sed natiira Deus, oO ^911 Mpwng. a^ fvonc Oioc asseritur : et Cy- riilus, lib. xi, in Joan., cap. li, naturam humanam ad Deum Verbum ^x''^"'^ • ''^" 7U9ixwc ascendisse docei ; quia nimiruin ex se et ex saipte conditione non habeat, ut cum l>eo unum sit. Tristitia igitur aliscque infirmitatesnostr» a natura Cbristialienae fuerunt, et eonsequt*iitereinon naturales.Non naturales, inquamy iion naturae mortali , sed naturas a qua ei virtus fuit resurgeiidi. Quod Hilarius iii Ps»!. liii , n. 7, de- clarat, ubi cum praemisisset, Omnia^ qum hominum «imf • et oravit et pasnu est... hine est quod esurivit , utifriif etc, snbjicit, Et ut lut omnilntt non natura, gis exploratum sii, qnn ab eo ttrr«/if Tocabulo vis atribtiatur, nnnc considerandum. 148. Niliil apiid veieres iisitaiius esse, quam ut virtutis voce Christi divinitaiein enuniient, vel ea sola testimonia, qiK-e ex ipsis Tbeodoretns ad c;ilcem dialogi SadversusTheopaschitis coll<*git, amplam lidein faciuiit. Quibus addiinus iinum illud Ambrosii lib. 11 de Fide , cap. 7, u. 56 : Cbristus ut homo tur- batur : non turbalurejus virius, non turbatur ejusdivi" nitas; ted turbatur anima, turbatur secundum humaum fragititatis assumptionem. Ad Hiiarium veroquodatti* net, quarovis liacvoce, cum de Christo ei sermo est, sxpiiis uutur, non occurrit tamen animo, utrum eam usqiiam non ad diviniiaiem ipsius referai. Hanc 8BD EX A88UMPTIONB fiil|;ecltt< etse posset inteUigi , per- 1> eo vocabulo perspicue signiftcat in Psal. ii , n. 25, f^tus hit oimii^i returresat. 146. Ne«|ue obscurum est , cur ea usus sit loquendi ratione. Quod enim superius de vi vocis Christi est observatum , longe hic majorem locuin habet. Et qui- dem cum una in Christo Verbi persomi sil , ciijus propria iiaiura divina est , cuique humana , quamvis per conjQiiCtionemsubstantialem, Unieu per volun* lariam a.<«8umptlonem accessit ; cur hanc non liceat Yelutextraneamrespicere? Si autem Christo velut qoid extraneum est assumpius homo; pariter extra- neum ei erit quidquid in hominem assumptum conve- niet. Qttocirca eum inPsal. cxxxix , num. 2, dicat: Quod enim Deus cst , iianirai sum est , quod autem ho* dum ait : Non iddrco non Dei Filiut. quia et hominit est /itius. Non enim cum divinitatis decessione fit Att- mitilatis aecestio : nec per contorttum infirmitatis coit- (ume/tam ViRTUS«a:c«ptl;^ttfppe cum infirmitas ho- nore sit donata Virtutis. Nec iiiinus cbire cap. 9 in Mailh.uiim. 7, hs^bes : Astumptio corporit non naturam Virtutis inctusit : sed ad redemptionem suam^ fragitita' tem corporis Virtus aMttmpiil. Huic loco siniilis est alter Tract. Psal. 145, uum. 7, quo Verbi exinanitio sic exponitur : Neque Virtus in humilitatem sese licet eohibens defeeit ex tete , et humtitat cohibita in tete Virtute tutcepta , cum quod non erat eue cmpit , pro^ fectnm ejut qum a te non defecerat Virtutit accepit. Ita 75 l>Ri£FAT10 GENERALIS. 74 lib. X de Trin. num. 16 : Verbi virtnSf non corpora- A se passwnum nostrarum infirmitates, sed patsus vm- Htut modis manens , nec deerat unde descemierat. Scd •d rem nosiram propiiis pertiiif^t, quod ibid. u. 66, eoarrans illud Pauii : Etsi crucifixus est ex infirmitate, $ed vivit ix tirtute Dei^ virlutem riiristi divinam na- toram , infirmitatem vero humanam cjusdem natiiram inierpreiaiur in hunc modiim : Eumdem ex infirmitate crnrifixum ait (Paulus ), qui ex virtute Dei viveret r ut cum infimwas esset ex forma servi , et nntura muneret tx Dti forma , non ambignum esset in quo sacramenlo (id est iii qiia nattira) et passus esset , et viveret ; ut cum tJi eodem esset et infirii itjIS ad passionem , et ad tiiam Bei virtcs , non alius ac divisus a se esset, qui et patereiur et viveret. Qux cum ila sint, qiiid vetat, qno miuus inhisnb. x, num. tute NATURiG su.€, ut et virtute n turte snce natus enl: nequeenimcum natus sity non tenuit omnipotentia: sux in nativitate naturam. Et post pauca , pro virtute natura suas^ ait virtute corporis sui, puta , secundum quod ita ex infirmitate corporis nostri pnssus in eorpore est , ut pasiiones corporis nostri , curporis sui vir- TUTE «iifripfTeC. Qiiod in Ps:ii. clxi, ii. 8, brftvius ac cliriu^i sic elorutiis est : Licet se passioni daret, non t.men Virtus ^eterna dolorem pasxionis exciperet, Unde li(|uet virtutein coi-poris, virtutem uattira! sune, eiVirtntem .Tternam Hilario syiiooyma ruisse, iisqiie signilicari vcrbiim , a qiio honio cum iis qii» homiiiis sunt, absque ulla sui demutatione, suscep- tiis est. i5!2.Verbiim quoquecamem racltim virtutem corporit eivirtutem in corpore nh Hippolyto appellaiiim esse apud Tbeodorettim ad cafctMU dialogi ImpatibiU* legi- mus : Corpus, inqiiit, quamvis Itumano more mortuum^ magnam in se vitm virtutem habet. Quw enim ex mortuis corporibus non profiuuut^ ex illo manarunt : sangnis et aqua : ut sciremns quantum ad vttam valeat virtus qu<B in corpore hnbitavit, Iteiii nit : Non confringitur os tancti agni , ostendente figura passionem non attingere viRTUTEM. Corporisenimvirtus sunt osna : ct ideo Ver- buui aduiiibraiit, quod assumpii corporis virtus est. 155. S«*d ad supcrioreni libri x de Trinit. locum illiistraiidum uulliis aplior est, quam qui in Psal. Liii, num. li hnhelur. E\ hoc enim evidenter paie- bil, quam in ilio virtns corporis periiidc llilario Tue- f50. Accepia hac notione, t<>ta dirimilur contro- ^ riiatqiie natura diviniiatis. Nec ingraliim eril ab ip- versia,qa:e maxima iiata est ex verbis lib. x , n. 23 : Patsut quidem est Dominus Jesus Cliristus , dum cce- dilur, dum suspenditurtdumcrucififjitur, dummoritur: ted in corput Domini irruent pattio nec non fuit pastio, nec tamen naturam passionis exst*ruit , dum et pmnati nunisterio deuevit^ et virtus corporis sine sensu posno! vim pcene in sedescevientis excepil. Si eniin il>i virluscor' poris inielUgitor Verbuni quod corpus assumpsil, h:ec sibi volent, passionem scilicet, qiia ca^sus e>>t Gliri- slos, et veram fuisse, et iioii verain : veram quidem in Gorpus ipsius, seu in hominem ab co assiimptum , qoera proiiide demutaril dolore, tensu, tolerantia^ ot jam nom. 139 observaiuin ; iion veram auiern in Verbum cnrni conjunctum, in quod mox diciodfmu- somet audire, non qtiid recens de Doinini pnssione senseril, sed quid de ea semper pr.Tdicarit ; ul illtic provocentur, qiii euni libris de Trinilaie errasse, sed postmodum Traciaiibus iii psalmos errorem relrac- ta^so .««emiuiit. Poiro in co loco brevein loiitis doc- trii*9e suie de Gliristi passioiic suuimam sic com- plexus e>t: Quod autem (speciat) et in crucem actum unigeniium Dei filium, et morte damnatum eunu qui nativitate^ quce sibi ex celerno patre est naturatis^ mter^ nus sit : frequenter inio semper preedicamus . non ex naturcB necessitale potius, quam ex sacramento humanm salutis passioni fuisse subditum^ et voluitse se magit passioni subjid , quam coactum, Et quanquam passio illa non fuerit conditionis et generis, quia indemutabi' lationis eflectu caroerit. Nulla igitor binc d iscep- ^ /em dei naturao nu//a t;i« tnjttrioKe permr6alfom< of- Undi causa, cum nemo caiholicusambigal, quin Filius Dei , posiquam faclus est (ilius hominis , sine sen<o poens vim poenoe in se des:evi(M)tis exceperit , hoc esty dictus sii paii , quod iu carne absque ulla ftoi detnotaiione ptTpessus sit. 151. Al quod allaio loco t;ir/ii< corporis Verbiim in- telligatur, non ambigel, qui cuiii eo contiilerit boc Tract. p!>al. uv , num. 6 : Ei ha^c quidem in etm amnia^ qum nostrm necessitatis sunt, irruerunt; sed ab to HATURiB S0£ viRTUTE suscepta sunt, dum mortem nostram, poient non mori, eiiam TiooREy in te mortisin- ^roenleiiioon r«iiNit:velillud lib. x de Trin. nuni. 47 : FaMtuiigiiurwn^itut Deut eti omnet incurremet in Pateol. IX. fenderet : tamen tuscepta voluntarie est, officio quidem ipsa satisfactura poenali^ non tamenpmnm sensu Imsura patientem : non quod illa lcedendi non habuerit pro ipta paisionis quaiitaie naturam; sed quod dolorem divini- TATis NATURA uou scntit. Paisus ergo est Deus; quia se subjecil voluntnrius passioni : sed suscipiens naturules ingruentium in se passionum (qiiibus doloreiii palien- tibus necesse esi iiiferri) virtutes, ipse tamen a naiurm sum virtute non excidit ut doleret, Jniii vcro h;ec con- fer cuin verbis num. S5, lib. x de Trin. qiix hnclc- nus nuiltis difnciliu, pluribiis nuliMn siispecia visa sunt : nec ulla occurrct nisi in verborum sonis dis- crepantia. In udo siquidem loco Ghristus dicitur pai- U PRi£FATIO GENCKAllS. 7G «tu, ia ulU^ro patmm lubdiim; u\ hoc cum poinali A hoc doinonslraiuin est, recolere qui$<|ue fSicinus vi-i af/iciOf ia ilLo cum pmali mini$terio, ia uiroque stii« pancB Aenm^ iu uiroque ipsi passionis qualilaii non Q^la Ixdendi natura : iu ulroquo etiaoi statim sub- jiciiur raiio cur ha:c nUurali cffecU destlluta sit, li- brQquidem de Triuil. obscurius,qiiud VirluscorpO' rii vim pcencc in le descevientis excepit ; manifcslius au- t^m in Psalmos, quod dolorem divinilatis natura noj» icntitt et quod pa$sui Deus a naturo! suce virtute non excidit ut doleret, Sed biuc discutilur caligo, quae il- linc iuducebatur. 134. Aj^iis^me deiude virlus illa Ycrbi, qua car«- nis passioues absque ulla sui deumlaiione excepit, teli in aquam aut igneni aut aerem immis^si compara- tioiie illustratur. Quemadmodumenim telum, cumex lcat; pra^cipua paucis sunl perstringeuda. VII. Synopsis argumentorum, quikus Uilariusdepa^^ sione Christi recte seusisse approbatur. 156. Primo ante Claudiauum Mamerium nuHus^ post liunc priuius Berengarius eum reprebendit quod passionuui Cliristi veritalem negaret. CoiiUa a oomi^ ualissimis (|uibusque doctorUius sacrisque Coiiciliis ut venerandus et catbolicus doctor et acerriiuus fidei defensor semper audiii. At si iu ea fuisset senteniia ita singulari, ut nullum ejus vestigium iu a^tatis illiua scriptoribus depreliemjere sii, \a\o quae fidei om- nium coosen«u recepUe repugnet ; tot emt budibua miuime celebrasseiit. Louge miuus ei pepercis^eut has- retici, qui cum adversantes sibi cathgJi^os alios con- naiurasuapungere,forare, vulnerareidoneum sit, bis Bfictis hseresibus calumniisque infamare pfo nihilo tamen efTcciibus in hax eiemeuta immissum carel,, quia illa cqs in se minime recipianl : sic et quia ia divina natura nuUus paiet dolori locus, in Cbristi di- ifiuiiaicm ad irritum cadit passio, per se infer^udo ^olori nata. 155. Alii*^ etiam similiiudinibus eamd^m fidei no^trae veritatem expiicant et confirmant alii Hilario uostro aequal^ aut etiani siiperiores. Solis similitudin^ uiitur Euslaibius Aniiochenus apud Tbeodoretum^ dial. 3 : Si autem^ iuquit, sol cujus corpus cerniet sen^u fgercipi potest^ tot lantasque ublque ierrarum (erens con- tumelias, non muiat ordinem, nec iclum ullum parvun^ magnumve sentit : incorpoream existimamus poUui Sa- plentiamf et mutare naturam^ si ejus templum cruci af-^ ducerent, ipsius taiuen integritat^ auctoriUtemquft «emper summopere reformidaruut, Deinde AphihardociUs, qui Jusiiniano reguaote ac (aveute erroreiA Uibiria a uoonuUia adscriptuai de- feudebaiit, uvnquam veuit in meiUem, ul seoten- tiam suam Unii viri nomiue lUMuiroiit» cuius jam- pridem apud Grxcos celebria eraiit scripta.
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Nagasaki: Life After Nuclear War by Susan Southard Nagasaki: Life After Nuclear War bySusan Southard Paperback | August 2, 2016 not yet rated|write a review Pricing and Purchase Info $20.91 online  $23.00 list price save 9% Earn 105 plum® points In stock online Ships free on orders over $25 Available in stores “[A] reminder of just how horrible nuclear weapons are.”—The Wall Street Journal A devastating read that highlights man’s capacity to wreak destruction, but in which one also catches a glimpse of all that is best about people.”—San Francisco Chronicle “A poignant and complex picture of the second atomic bomb’s enduring physical and psychological tolls. Eyewitness accounts are visceral and haunting. . . . But the book’s biggest achievement is its treatment of the aftershocks in the decades since 1945.” —The New Yorker The enduring impact of a nuclear bomb, told through the stories of those who survived: necessary reading as the threat of nuclear war emerges again. On August 9, 1945, three days after the atomic bombing of Hiroshima, the United States dropped a second atomic bomb on Nagasaki, a small port city on Japan’s southernmost island. An estimated 74,000 people died within the first five months, and another 75,000 were injured. Nagasaki takes readers from the morning of the bombing to the city today, telling the first-hand experiences of five survivors, all of whom were teenagers at the time of the devastation. Susan Southard has spent years interviewing hibakusha (“bomb-affected people”) and researching the physical, emotional, and social challenges of post-atomic life. She weaves together dramatic eyewitness accounts with searing analysis of the policies of censorship and denial that colored much of what was reported about the bombing both in the United States and Japan. A gripping narrative of human resilience, Nagasaki will help shape public discussion and debate over one of the most controversial wartime acts in history. WINNER of the J. Anthony Lukas Book Prize and the Dayton Literary Peace Prize FINALIST for the Ridenhour Book Prize • Chautauqua Prize • William Saroyan International Prize for Writing PEN Center USA Literary Award  The Economist • The Washington Post • American Library Association • Kirkus Reviews About The Author Susan Southard holds an MFA in creative writing from Antioch University, Los Angeles, and was a nonfiction fellow at the Norman Mailer Center in Provincetown, Massachusetts. Southard’s work has appeared in the New York Times, the Los Angeles Times, Politico, and Lapham’s Quarterly. She has taught nonfiction classes at Arizona State Uni... Details & Specs Title:Nagasaki: Life After Nuclear WarFormat:PaperbackDimensions:416 pages, 8.45 × 5.5 × 0.81 inPublished:August 2, 2016Publisher:Penguin Publishing GroupLanguage:English The following ISBNs are associated with this title: ISBN - 10:0143109421 ISBN - 13:9780143109426 Look for similar items by category: Nearby Stores We found 0 nearby stores Customer Reviews of Nagasaki: Life After Nuclear War Extra Content Read from the Book PREFACEIn the summer of 1986, I received a last-minute call asking me to step in as a substitute interpreter for Taniguchi Sumiteru, a fifty-seven-year-old survivor of the 1945 Nagasaki atomic bombing. Taniguchi was in Washington, D.C., as part of a speaking tour in the United States. I had just met him the night before when I attended one of his talks. Over the next two days, I spent more than twenty hours with Taniguchi, listening to and interpreting his story in public presentations and private conversations.Years earlier I had lived in Yokohama, just south of Tokyo, as an international scholarship student. At sixteen, I was placed with a traditional Japanese family and attended an all-girls high school in the neighboring city of Kamakura, Japan’s ancient capital. Nearly everything was foreign to me, including the language—and I had little knowledge of the Pacific War and the atomic bombings that had taken place thirty years earlier. Later that year, after my language skills and integration into Japanese life had improved, I traveled to Nagasaki for the first time during my high school’s senior class trip to southern Japan. Inside the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum, I stood arm in arm with friends who had embraced me as their own, staring at photographs of burned adults and children and the crushed and melted household items on display. In one of the glass cases, a helmet still had the charred flesh of a person’s scalp stuck inside.The memory of Nagasaki stayed with me into adulthood. And yet, as I listened to Taniguchi speak in a dimly lit church hall near downtown D.C., I realized how ignorant I still was of the history of the Pacific War, the development of the atomic bombs, and the human consequences of their use.Taniguchi was sharply dressed in a gray suit, a white dress shirt, and a deep purple and navy striped tie. On his left lapel he wore a pin—a white origami crane set against a red background. His thick black hair was combed neatly to the side. Small—maybe five foot six—and noticeably thin, he told his story quietly, the syllables toppling one upon another: At 11:02 a.m. on August 9, 1945, sixteen-year-old Taniguchi was on his bicycle delivering mail in the northwestern section of the city when a plutonium bomb fell from the sky and exploded over a Nagasaki neighborhood of about thirty thousand residents. “In the flash of the explosion,” he said, his voice trembling, “I was blown off the bicycle from behind and slapped down against the ground. The earth seemed to shiver like an earthquake.” Although he was over a mile away, the extraordinary heat of the bomb torched Taniguchi’s back. After a few moments, he lifted his head to see that the children who had been playing near him were dead.As he spoke, Taniguchi held up a photograph of himself taken five months after the blast during his protracted stay at a hospital north of Nagasaki. In the photograph he is lying on his stomach, emaciated. Down one arm and from neck to buttocks where his back would be, there is no skin or flesh, only exposed muscle and tissue, raw and red. As Taniguchi finished his speech, he made eye contact with his audience for the first time. “Let there be no more Nagasakis,” he appealed. “I call on you to work together to build a world free of nuclear weapons.”After his presentation, I drove Taniguchi to the small house outside of D.C. where he was staying. We sat on the front porch; the light from the front hallway allowed us to see each other only in shadow. I plied Taniguchi with questions about the bombing and the weeks, months, and years that followed. He handed me a small stack of photos that resembled mug shots—medical photos, I presumed—full-body back, front, and side views. They showed Taniguchi, perhaps in his forties, naked except for his traditional Japanese undergarment. His entire back was a mass of rubbery keloid scars. Near the center of his chest, deep indentations still remained where his skin and flesh had rotted, the result of lying on his stomach for nearly four years. It was a time, he told me, when the pain was so excruciating that every day he had begged the nurses to let him die. I asked Taniguchi which memories from his life were most important to him. “Just that I lived,” he said. “That I have lived this long. I have sadness and struggle that goes with being alive, but I went to the very last edge of life, so I feel joy in the fact that I’m here, now.”By the time Taniguchi left Washington, I longed to more fully understand what it took for him and others to live day by day in the face of acute physical pain, psychological trauma, and a personal history split in half by nuclear war. What kinds of radiation-related injuries did they experience, and what did survival look like in the days, months, and years that followed the attack? And how was it that I, who had lived in Japan and had been educated in excellent public high schools and universities in the United States, had no specific knowledge about the survivors of the atomic bombings? Why do most Americans know little or nothing about the victims’ experiences beneath the atomic clouds or in the years since 1945?____As single weapons, the atomic bombs used against Japan were unmatched in their explosive force, intense heat, and ability to cause instantaneous mass death. Radiation doses larger than any human had ever received penetrated the bodies of people and animals, causing cellular changes that led to death, disease, and life-altering medical conditions. More than 200,000 men, women, and children died from the Hiroshima and Nagasaki attacks—either at the time of the bombings or over the next five months from their wounds or acute radiation exposure. In the years that followed, tens of thousands more suffered from injury and radiation-related diseases. An estimated 192,000 hibakusha (atomic bomb–affected people—pronounced hee-bakh-sha) are still alive today. The youngest, exposed in utero to the bombs’ radiation, will turn seventy in August 2015.Many critically acclaimed books have addressed the United States’ decision to use the bomb, but few have featured the eyewitness accounts of atomic bomb survivors. Those that have, such as John Hersey’s Hiroshima and several collections of hibakusha testimonies, focus almost exclusively on the immediate aftermath of the bombings; stories detailing the brutal long-term physical, emotional, and social manifestations of nuclear survival have rarely been told. As the second city bombed, Nagasaki is even less known than Hiroshima, which quickly became the global symbol of the atomic bombings of Japan. The invisibility of Nagasaki is so extreme that “the bomb” is often expressed as a singular event for both cities, without regard for the fact that the two atomic bombings were separated by time, geography, and the need for distinct analysis of military necessity.Many Americans’ perceptions of the atomic bombings are infused with inaccurate assumptions—in large part because the grave effects of whole-body radiation exposure were categorically denied by high-level U.S. officials. For years after the attacks, news accounts, photographs, scientific research, and personal testimonies of nuclear survival were both censored in Japan by U.S. occupation forces and restricted in the United States by government request. U.S. officials also constructed and promoted an effective but skewed narrative defending the decision to drop the bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Most Americans, relieved that the war was over, easily accepted the government’s simplified message that the bombings had ended the war and saved a quarter of a million, half a million, or a million American lives. With wartime propaganda in both nations depicting the enemy as subhuman, and with Americans’ fury over Pearl Harbor, Japan’s mistreatment and killings of Allied POWs, and its slaughter of civilians across Asia, a common American response to the atomic bombings was that “the Japanese deserved what they got.” All of these factors have limited Americans’ public inquiry into and understanding of the true impact on the people—nearly all civilians—who experienced the world’s first wartime use of atomic bombs.Compelled by a greater understanding of these historical influences and ongoing questions about the survivors’ personal experiences, I traveled to Nagasaki numerous times over a period of eight years. I conducted multiple extended interviews with Taniguchi and four other hibakusha—Do-oh Mineko, Nagano Etsuko, Wada Koichi, and Yoshida Katsuji—all of whom were teenagers at the time of the bombing. They and their families also provided me with extensive supporting materials, including personal essays, correspondence, medical records, and photographs. The stories of these five survivors, both epic and intimate, create the primary narrative strands of this book, documenting the seventy-year impact of nuclear war on them, their families, and their communities.I also interviewed twelve other hibakusha, some of whom had never told their stories to anyone outside of their immediate families. I met with Nagasaki atomic bomb specialists, including historians, physicians, psychologists, social workers, educators, and staff researchers at atomic bomb museums, hospitals, research centers, libraries, and survivor organizations. I also studied the written testimonies of more than three hundred Nagasaki survivors as well as privately printed documents, collections, government sources, and thousands of archival photographs of Nagasaki before and after the bombing.Hibakusha history is a complex and multidimensional story, and there are few straight lines in the survivors’ lives. In order to create a semblance of order for their chaotic postnuclear years and the sometimes disparate aspects of their stories, I have arranged the book into nine chronological and thematic chapters, covering 1945 to the present. As the lives of the five hibakusha unfold, I document the bombings’ larger medical and societal effects, including little-known details of physical injuries and disfiguration, acute and late radiation-related illnesses, extreme isolation during many years of hospitalization and home care, and the numerous challenges hibakusha encountered as they tried to redefine normalcy after nuclear war. In the face of societal discrimination and fears of genetic effects on their children, each decided whether to hide or reveal their identities as hibakusha, if and when to marry or have children, and whether they would break their silence and talk about their experiences with their families, friends, employers, or the public. Their stories are set against the backdrop of U.S.-Japan relations before, during, and after the war, and are intertwined with the political, social, and economic transformations in postwar Japan, scientific information about the effects of radiation, and evidence of U.S. policies of censorship and denial that continue to affect public opinion and create barriers to understanding. Except for Taniguchi, whom I met when he was in his fifties, I’ve known these hibakusha from their midseventies into their eighties. They provide a rare view of the memories and perspectives of aging adults whose early lives were permanently interrupted by a nuclear bomb.____There were many challenges in taking on this project, not the least of which was trying to write about nuclear annihilation and terror at a scale that defies imagination. My approach was to stay with the survivors’ individual experiences and perspectives as much as possible to keep the story real and imaginable, while offering context for clarification and understanding of larger social, political, and medical issues. In any historical account that incorporates personal narrative, there are complications due to the inherent limitations and unreliability of memory, especially traumatic memory. I countered this by cross-checking survivors’ accounts against support documentation to verify or expand on their memories of events, places, and people. Further, I am an American, of another culture and generation than the subjects of this book, and I wanted to prevent potential manipulation or appropriation of the survivors’ stories, even more so because they were people who, no matter what the rationale, had already been violated by my country. My answer to this challenge was to use the survivors’ own words and images to relay their experiences as accurately as possible, and to draw on the clearest scientific, medical, political, military, and historical analyses I could find to place the survivors’ experiences into the larger framework of the various histories in which they played a part.When I talk with Americans about this book, some of the first questions I am asked relate to the necessity and morality of the U.S. decision to use the atomic bombs on Japan. Many people hold unequivocal opinions that fall on either side of these issues. One of the critical (and difficult) questions to ask is how we as Americans defined then—and define now—just action, the cost of victory, and our criteria for committing to and accepting the mass killing or wounding of civilians of a nation we consider our enemy. Numerous scholars have analyzed and continue to debate U.S. motivations to use the atomic bombs and the relative impact of the multifaceted events leading up to Japan’s capitulation, including the atomic bombings. Their work has provided valuable political and military context for the Nagasaki story and provoked questions about the accepted narrative of the bombs’ military necessity, especially regarding the need for the second atomic bomb. They do not offer easy conclusions.In answering queries about the necessity of the bombings, I redirect people to the stories of those who experienced them, without which discussions of the military, moral, and existential questions about the Hiroshima and Nagasaki attacks are incomplete. At the very least, if we choose to take and defend actions that cause great harm to civilians during war, I believe we must also be willing to look at the impact of those actions. Hibakusha—the only people in history who have lived through a nuclear attack and its aftermath—are at the end of their lives, and they hold in their memories stirring evidence of the devastating long-term effects of nuclear war.____The large majority of hibakusha do not speak about their atomic bomb experiences, even within their own families. Their memories are too excruciating, and traditional Japanese culture—particularly for those born in the early twentieth century—does not promote public disclosure of personal, family, or societal struggles. Further, the risk of discrimination against hibakusha exists even today. Many survivors still keep their identity hidden to avoid being perceived as “different”—or worse, seeing their children or grandchildren denied employment or marriage because of a parent’s or grandparent’s hibakusha status.A select few—including Taniguchi, Do-oh, Nagano, Wada, and Yoshida—felt compelled to speak openly about their experiences, even though doing so required them to relive the horrors of their childhoods and young adulthoods. On behalf of those who died before their voices could be heard, these five hibakusha devoted much of their adult lives to eliminating ignorance about the realities of nuclear war and petitioning nuclear nations to reduce or eliminate their weapons stockpiles. They are trying, at all costs, to prevent worse nuclear horrors from taking place in the future.As we approach the seventieth anniversary of the second and last atomic bomb attack in history, it is my hope that this book will unveil these neglected stories to a larger audience and help shape the course of public discussion and debate over one of the most controversial wartime acts in history. The stories of those who were beneath the mushroom clouds can transform our generalized perceptions of nuclear war into visceral human experience. “Now, to be A-bombed,” Nagasaki poet Oyama Takami wrote, “[there] is nothing really abstract in that.”Susan SouthardJuly 2015From the Hardcover edition. Editorial Reviews "Nagasaki illuminates an absence in our own history. Far beyond a reductionist argument about whether to use nuclear weapons, this is a profound inquiry into the extremes of human violence and what it does to both victim and victimizer. It is essential reading in our hyper-violent time." —Ruben Martinez, finalist judge, 2016 Dayton Literary Peace Prize“Scrupulous, passionate, and compassionate history at its very best.” —John W. Dower, Pulitzer Prize winning author of Embracing Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World War II   “Magnificent and necessary... Reading [Nagasaki] is a powerful way to engage with the moral conundrums surrounding our country's use of atomic weapons.... Let us hope that many will read this important book.”—Los Angeles Times   “Nagasaki is a devastating read that highlights man’s capacity to wreak destruction, but in which one also catches a glimpse of all that is best about people.”—San Francisco Chronicle   “An intimate chronicle of individual lives: like a good documentary film-maker, Southard allows her subjects, with all their attractive and quirky qualities, to speak for themselves.”—Financial Times   “Beautifully written, weaving history and story.”—Sharman Apt Russell, author of Hunger: An Unnatural History     “Thoughtful and deeply affecting…A damning indictment of nuclear weapons and an inspiring reminder that some people prevail, even in the face of impossible odds.”—The Christian Science Monitor   “Southard’s vivid stories of five Nagasaki survivors powerfully illustrates the second atomic bombing and seventy years of life in the nuclear age. This book is the most extraordinary account ever written by an American author.”—Dr. Tomonaga Masao, former Director of the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Hospital   “[Nagasaki] provides the material and personal stories of one of the darkest days in human history.... One of the definitive histories of the end of World War II. Essential.”—Library Journal, starred review   “The merits of Southard's book are clear. It was bad enough for the Americans to have killed so many people, and then hide the gruesome facts for many years after the war. To forget about the massacre now would be an added insult to the victims. Southard has helped to make sure this will not happen yet.”—New York Times Book Review   “American politicians debating the nuclear deal with Iran would do well to spend some time with Southard’s Nagasaki. It does not tell us what to do. It only reminds us of the stakes.”—Washington Post    “Monumental…a riveting, if chilling plunge into nuclear realities.”—TomDispatch   “Despite the gravity of her subject, Southard writes in an engaging narrative style that propels the reader through the phantasmagoric horrors of nuclear extermination and its aftermath.”—Japan Times   “[A] reminder of just how horrible nuclear weapons are.”—The Wall Street Journal   "Southard performs a great service in rescuing their stories from extinction. Seventy years on, as our memories fade, this book horrifyingly and sometimes beautifully brings the events and their aftermath alive again—and forces us to reexamine the supposed rationale for inflicting such misery.”—David Pilling, Asia Editor, Financial Times and author of Bending Adversity: Japan and the Art of Survival   “Grimly excellent…the grace and resilience of these survivors actually works to infuse the latter portions of her book with an air of the last thing readers might expect from a book of this kind: hope.”—The National   “Timely, masterful storytelling... A crucial, historical record woven with lessons learned that we must not forget.”—Lucy Birmingham, co-author of Strong in the Rain: Surviving Japan’s Earthquake, Tsunami and Fukushima Nuclear Disaster   “A powerful and poignant account of the impact of nuclear war on civilians.”—Tulsa World   “Based on years of interviews and research, this account of the physical, emotional, and social fallout of surviving such an event will be a testimony like no other.”—Biographile   “Powerful and uncompromising.” –The Christian Science Monitor   “Explicit and penetrating, a haunting and humane look at one of the most contentious acts of war in world history. Southard provides a voice to the thousands who died and for those who have suffered for the past 70 years.”—Shelf Awareness, starred review   “Harrowing.... Damning yet necessary.”—Flavorwire    “[Nagasaki] presents [the] searing, heartbreaking reality of nuclear warfare.” —New York Daily News   “Southard offers valuable new information and context, and her work complements John Hersey’s 1946 classic, Hiroshima.”—Publishers Weekly   “Intense, deeply detailed, and compassionate account of the atomic bomb’s effects on the people and city of Nagasaki, then and now.... A valiant, moving work of research certain to provoke vigorous discussion.”—Kirkus, starred review   “Anyone who doubts the potential devastation of nuclear war would do well to read this engrossing book.…a masterpiece of non-fiction writing…”—Bill Williams, SpokaneFAVS.coFrom the Hardcover edition.
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import * as alt from 'alt'; import SQL from '../../../postgres-wrapper/database.js'; import { distance } from '../utility/vector.js'; import { Config } from '../configuration/config.js'; // Load the database handler. const db = new SQL(); const notVehicles = [ 'bmx', 'cruiser', 'fixter', 'scorcher', 'tribike', 'tribike2', 'tribike3' ]; alt.Vehicle.prototype.startTick = function startTick() { alt.emit('parse:Vehicle', this); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.save = async function save() { if (this.noSave) { return; } if (!this.markedForSave) { return; } if (this.markedForSave.length <= 0) { return; } const dataToSave = {}; this.markedForSave.forEach(fieldName => { dataToSave[fieldName] = this.data[fieldName]; }); this.markedForSave = []; await db.updatePartialData(this.data.id, dataToSave, 'Vehicle'); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.saveField = async function saveField(id, fieldName, fieldValue) { if (this.noSave) { return; } await db.updatePartialData(id, { [fieldName]: fieldValue }, 'Vehicle'); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.updateField = function updateField(fieldName, fieldValue) { if (this.noSave) { return; } if (fieldName !== 'stats' && fieldName !== 'fuel') { if (!this.data[fieldName]) { alt.log(`That field does not exist for vehicle. ${fieldName}`); return; } } this.data[fieldName] = fieldValue; if (!this.markedForSave) { this.markedForSave = []; } if (this.markedForSave.includes(fieldName)) { return; } this.markedForSave.push(fieldName); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.saveVehicleData = function saveVehicleData() { if (this.noSave) { return; } this.updateField('position', JSON.stringify(this.pos)); this.updateField('rotation', JSON.stringify(this.rot)); this.updateField('fuel', this.fuel); this.updateField( 'stats', JSON.stringify({ bodyHealth: this.bodyHealth, engineHealth: this.engineHealth, lockState: this.lockState }) ); this.save(); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.getInventory = function getInventory() { if (this.noSave) { return; } return JSON.parse(this.data.inventory); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.subItemByHash = function subItemByHash(hash) { if (this.noSave) { return; } const inventory = JSON.parse(this.data.inventory); const index = inventory.findIndex(item => item && item.hash === hash); if (index <= -1) { return false; } inventory.splice(index, 1); this.data.inventory = JSON.stringify(inventory); this.saveField(this.data.id, 'inventory', this.data.inventory); return true; }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.getSlots = function getSlots() { const inventory = JSON.parse(this.data.inventory); if (inventory === undefined) { return 27; } return inventory.length; }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.addItem = function addItem(itemClone) { const inventory = JSON.parse(this.data.inventory); if (inventory.length >= 27) { return false; } inventory.push(itemClone); this.data.inventory = JSON.stringify(inventory); this.saveField(this.data.id, 'inventory', this.data.inventory); return true; }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.saveRotation = function saveRotation() { if (this.noSave) { return; } this.updateField('rotation', JSON.stringify(this.rot)); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.savePosition = function savePosition() { if (this.noSave) { return; } this.updateField('position', JSON.stringify(this.pos)); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.despawnVehicle = function despawnVehicle() { if (!this.noSave) { this.saveVehicleData(); this.save(); } this.destroy(); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.saveCustom = function saveCustom(json) { if (this.noSave) { return; } this.data.customization = json; this.saveField(this.data.id, 'customization', this.data.customization); this.syncCustom(); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.sync = function sync() { if (!this.data.stats) { this.data.stats = '{"bodyHealth":1000,"engineHealth":0,"lockState":1}'; this.updateField('stats', this.data.stats); } if (!this.data.customization) { this.data.customization = '{}'; this.updateField('customization', this.data.customization); } if (!this.data.inventory) { this.data.inventory = '[]'; this.updateField('inventory', this.data.inventory); } }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.syncCustom = function syncCustom() { if (this.noSave) { return; } if (!this.data) { return; } if (!this.data.customization) { return; } const mods = JSON.parse(this.data.customization); Object.keys(mods).forEach(key => { if (key !== 'colors' && this.modKitsCount > 0) { this.modKit = 1; let index = parseInt(key); let value = parseInt(mods[key]) + 1; if (index !== 23) { try { if (value === 0) { return; } this.setMod(index, value); } catch (e) { console.log(`Mod: ${index} could not be applied with value ${value}`); } } else { try { if (value === 0) { return; } vehicle.setWheels(23, value); } catch (e) { console.log(`Mod: ${index} could not be applied with value ${value}`); } // this.setSyncedMeta('vehicleWheels', value); } return; } if (key === 'colors') { if (mods[key].primary) { this.setSyncedMeta('primaryPaint', mods[key].primary.type); this.setSyncedMeta('primaryColor', mods[key].primary.color); } if (mods[key].secondary) { this.setSyncedMeta('secondaryPaint', mods[key].secondary.type); this.setSyncedMeta('secondaryColor', mods[key].secondary.color); } return; } }); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.saveDimension = function saveDimension(number) { this.data.dimension = number; this.saveField(this.data.id, 'dimension', number); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.honkHorn = function honkHorn(times, duration) { alt.emitClient(null, 'vehicle:HonkHorn', this, times, duration); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.repair = async function repair() { const pos = { ...this.pos }; const rot = { ...this.rot }; const data = { ...this.data }; rot.x = 0; rot.y = 0; try { this.destroy(); } catch (err) {} data.position = JSON.stringify(pos); data.rotation = JSON.stringify(rot); data.stats = JSON.stringify({ bodyHealth: 1000, engineHealth: 1000, lockState: data.lockState }); await db.updatePartialData( data.id, { position: data.position, rotation: data.rotation, stats: data.stats }, 'Vehicle' ); if (!this.owner) { return; } const index = this.owner.vehicles.findIndex(vehicle => vehicle === this); if (index != -1) { this.owner.vehicles.splice(index, 1); } alt.emit('vehicle:Respawn', this.owner, data); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.toggleDoor = function toggleDoor(player, id, closeAll = false) { if (this.doorStates === undefined) { this.doorStates = { 0: false, 1: false, 2: false, 3: false, 4: false, 5: false }; } // Toggle this.doorStates[id] = closeAll ? false : !this.doorStates[id]; alt.emitClient(player, 'vehicle:ToggleDoor', this, id, this.doorStates[id]); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.syncFuel = function syncFuel() { const included = notVehicles.find(veh => { const hash = alt.hash(veh); if (hash === this.model) { return veh; } }); if (included) { return; } const currentFuel = this.fuel; if (!this.lastPosition) { this.lastPosition = this.pos; } const dist = distance(this.pos, this.lastPosition); if (dist > 10 && this.driver) { const fuelConsumed = dist / Config.vehicleBaseFuel; const remainingFuel = currentFuel - fuelConsumed; this.lastPosition = this.pos; this.fuel = remainingFuel <= 0 ? 0 : remainingFuel; if (this.fuel <= 0 && this.isEngineOn) { this.isEngineOn = false; alt.emitClient(null, 'vehicle:KillEngine', this); if (this.driver) { alt.emitClient(this.driver, 'vehicle:StartEngine', false); this.driver.send(`{FFFF00} You are out of fuel.`); } } } this.setSyncedMeta('fuel', this.fuel); this.setSyncedMeta('basefuel', Config.vehicleBaseFuel); }; alt.Vehicle.prototype.fillFuel = function fillFuel() { this.fuel = Config.vehicleBaseFuel; this.setSyncedMeta('fuel', this.fuel); if (this.data) { this.saveField(this.data.id, 'fuel', this.fuel); } };
common_corpus
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The Flip Cap Camera Lens Cap Screws Into Your Camera Ever tried to capture a great moment on camera only to realize that your lens was blocking the whole thing? Well the flip cap could solve all of your problem. The handy device simply screws onto the lens filter threads on the front of the lenses. Once you go to take a picture you just need to press a button on the side of the accessory and the camera lens will move to one side, leaving you free to take a picture in time. The Flip Cap Camera Lens was recently unveiled at the CP+ trade show in Japan. Once it goes on the market, it will be available in white, black or some pretty girly pattern and interchangeable designs. The standard Flip Cap is expected to retail at around $25 and will come in two sizes: 49mm and 58mm. Stats for Time-Saving Camera Caps Trending: Older & MildTraction:471 clicks in 111 w Interest: 0.5 minutes Concept: Camera Lens Related: 53 examples / 41 photosSegment: Neutral, 12-55 Comparison Set: 20 similar articles, including: edible chocolate cameras, minimalist monochromatic logos, and flying hipster self-portraits.
mini_pile
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Wednesday, September 11, 2013 I've been promoted. And part of my new job is writing a blog.  You're probably wondering who is this person and why would we care about them getting a promotion?  You wouldn't. Unless you're a runner.  If you are then this would be the perfect time to get very scared.  You runners are responsible for my promotion. You're the ones that started this war. And it was a runner that killed the guy that had this job before I did.  I'm not blaming you or anything. No, on the contrary even, I fucking love this job. So thank you. Thank you for giving me my dream job, killing you guys.  If you hadn't figured it out by now you're a moron. But yes, I'm a Proxy. I serve the almighty faceless dude. Some call him the Slender man others call him God. I just call him whatever I feel like calling him.  Thanks to that promotion you caused, I now have several groups of proxies under my command.  And I've been assigned to lead the efforts to extinguish your foolish war in this area.  I'm going to enjoy crushing all your hopes, one by one. 1. Where are ya, you don't mind me asking? USA? 1. No, I'm in Europe. Any other details are strictly classified. Not really though. I'm not gonna put my location on a public blog for all runners to see. Having the element of surprise is so much more fun. But yes, I'm somewhere in Europe. 2. Ha welcome to this wonderful world of blogging, it's quite a doozy. Enjoy your stay, I'll be paying attention to you, to see if you're a puppy, or maybe more. 1. I'd boast about my past to prove that I'm not a "puppy". But that wouldn't be fun, now would it? No, I prefer to let my actions speak for themselves. 3. Discordia. Based on your comments, you're a fan of when my mental state gets completely FUBAR. Probably should have guessed you would be of the proxy persuasion. 1. What can I say, I just love it when a person gets broken down. I should ask morningstar to put it on video next time and send it to me.
dclm_baseline
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Ryan Tedder: Beyonce likes 'honest and raw' songs • Bang Showbiz • 15 October 2016 Ryan Tedder Ryan Tedder Beyonce will only record "honest and raw" songs, according to OneRepublic frontman Ryan Tedder, who penned her hit tracks 'XO' and 'Halo' Beyonce only wants to record "honest and raw" songs. OneRepublic frontman Ryan Tedder has a reputation for penning huge pop hits for the likes of Taylor Swift, Adele, and Ariana Grande, but he insists his and other songwriters' status don't matter to the 'Crazy in Love' hitmaker - for whom he wrote 'XO' and 'Halo' - as she's only interested in what the tracks have to say. He said: "Beyonce has passed on more hits than you can imagine and no melody or famous producer means a thing to her. She is all about the lyrics; it has to be honest and raw. "'Halo' was written in a few hours, but I wrote 'XO' imagining myself as Beyonce, looking out and finding one person in a crowd. I got inside her head, and she took it because it was something that she truly felt." But when working with Ariana, showing off her impressive vocal range is the priority. Ryan said: "With Ariana, I know she wants to showcase her vocal range. People ask if I have a formula. I don't, but with Ariana, there is a trick. If I can figure out what key her voice sounds most electrifying in, I know it will work." The 37-year-old songwriter likes to "assume the personality" of the people he writes for and enjoys having to "keep pace" with Taylor and her likes and dislikes. He told Grazia magazine: "When I write for someone else, I assume their personality. My first question is always, 'What are you listening to?' Taylor is so smart and savvy so you have to keep pace. "When we wrote 'Welcome to New York', she was listening to a lot of stuff from the 80s and wanted that sound. I brought a 1984 keyboard and started playing the opening chords. She was just like, 'That's it!' It was simple."
dclm_baseline
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Shop Or Create Custom T-Shirts, Hoodies and More Crea y sube su idea 1. Create and upload your idea. Su idea en Producto 2. We put that idea into products. Gana Dinero 3. You earn money. Tu Creatividad Anson Baby Bodysuits Showing 1 - 24 of 121 Baby Bodysuit Anson Baby Bodysuits are an Idakoos specialtiy! Idakoos has many things to offer. Whether you want to get a Anson Baby Bodysuit for a special occasion, give a Anson Infant Bodysuit as a present or need to represent with a funny Anson Baby Romper during Holidays or Family and Friends get-togethers, Idakoos is sure to have the right Anson Baby Bodysuit for you! Even if it turns out you can't find the right Anson Baby Creeper with the perfect design for all those babies in your family and friends circle; Idakoos offers all of its children's Anson Baby Bodysuits as Anson Baby Bodysuits. Personalize any Anson Baby Snapsuit the way you want to ensure the perfect gift.
dclm_baseline
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Author: Paul Christopher Anderson associate professor and alumni master teacher at Clemson University Shenandoah Valley during the Civil War The Shenandoah Valley in western Virginia stretches about 140 miles north to south between the Allegheny Mountains on the west and the Blue Ridge Mountains on the east. During the American Civil War (1861–1865), the strategically important Valley was the site of two major campaigns and numerous battles and represents, in microcosm, many of the military, social, and cultural factors that ultimately explain why the Union won and the Confederacy lost the war. Confederate control of the Shenandoah helped prolong the Confederate war effort until 1864, while the region provided sustenance to Confederate stomachs and succored Confederate nationalism. When those connections were destroyed by Union general Philip H. Sheridan and his Valley Campaign in the autumn of 1864—a campaign that culminated in what residents called “the Burning,” and that also helped U.S. president Abraham Lincoln win re-election—victory for the Union and defeat for the Confederacy were all but assured. The Valley, meanwhile, was largely stripped, but for years it had been steeped in mythology—known as the “Granary of the Confederacy,” it was considered the very heart of the South. That mythology would survive Sheridan and even the war. Ashby, Turner (1828–1862) Turner Ashby was a Confederate cavalry general who served under Thomas J. “Stonewall” Jackson in the Shenandoah Valley Campaign of 1862 during the American Civil War (1861–1865). An expert horseman whose dead mounts were kept as romantic relics, Ashby was arguably the Confederacy’s most renowned combat hero before his death in 1862. His competency for high command and potential for growth are still debated among military historians, but it’s clear that his presence in the Shenandoah Valley was a powerful catalyst to the Confederate military effort there during the war’s first year. Indeed, his presence resonates even now, as many Shenandoah localities celebrate Confederate Memorial Day on June 6, the day of his death. Sponsors  |  View all
dclm_baseline
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Elegant Elements Clasp The extensive Elegant Elements collection includes designs ranging from modern to classic, many of which incorporate Swarovski Crystal Stones & Crystal Pearls. They are made according to exacting German design, manufacturing, and environmental standards and offer the extravagant appearance of precious metal without an extravagant price. Created to be long-lasting, this Elegant Elements clasp is electroplated in 23K Gold and is Nickel-free.
mini_pile
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Over is a combination of developmental differences which affect Over the past few decades we have acquired a more in-depth knowledge of the differences in how the brain is developed, and, in turn, how boys and girls learn. Research shows that there is a combination of developmental differences which affect the brain, sensory motor and physical development in boys and girls (Bonomo, 2010). I have made an effort to summarise the key differences uncovered in these studies. Girls seem to be more able to transition, while boys use primitive areas of their brains more often. Due to chemical imbalances in their brains boys are more impulsive, while girls are less impulsive. This is because there is more blood flow in the female brain, this allows more a stronger integrated approach to learning, while boys require a structured method of learning. Girls tend to be better at multitasking, while boys may have a better capacity for spatial reasoning. Girls are more developed in creative listening skills, while boy’s brains require more breaks. Boys’ process better with abstract figures like symbols and numbers, where in contrast, girls’ brains are better with verbal and sensory memory. (Bonomo, 2010) There are some elements of brain development to consider in relation to how it aligns with age and experience, or the timing of puberty, which teachers should remain aware of as they are learning how to best teach their students. Cognitive development follows age and experience, where, in contrast, affective (emotional) development follows the development of puberty (Freer, 2007). Also, the part of the brain which coordinates emotions is the last part to mature. This information can be used be teachers to create a more affective learning environment for their pupils. I will discuss how this can be done, with primary focus on choral groups and choirs. Freer believes that, in the music profession, teachers are not meeting the needs of the adolescent male singers (2007). With the children’s choir trend producing many male and female singers, one wonders where the male singers go as they reach middle school and beyond. (Winchenbach, 2016). This raises the concern that this loss may harm a students’ musical capability as they age. There is a period of learning development that is open until the onset of puberty which allows students to collect new knowledge with ease. (Winchenbach, 2016). When students stop taking part in music around this time, they have reported as adults that they have lost musical abilities (Freer, 2007). One solution posed by Freer is to separate the choruses into male and female in order to meet their individual needs by employing specific techniques and strategies. By separating the boys from the girls, it leaves less room for comparison and leaves the boys feeling more accomplished as a group. (Winchenbach, 2016). This is particularly important as the boys’ voices change over the course of puberty. With the separation, the teacher can concentrate on the boys’ changing voice, while also accommodating the different methods in which boys learn, of which I have summarised in the preceding paragraph, making use of their interests, and creating competitive activities to promote learning and provide more opportunities to work as a team. (Freer, 2007). We Will Write a Custom Essay Specifically For You For Only $13.90/page! order now
dclm_baseline
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Longtime San Diego video game executive John Smedley, who developed the EverQuest multiplayer franchise for Sony, has launched a startup game studio that’s building a new pixel art role-playing computer game called “Hero’s Song.” Pixelmage Games has raised $1 million in seed funding from a private investor and has turned to Kickstarter in hopes of raising an additional $800,000 to finish the development of “Hero’s Song,” which the company plans to release in October. “The reason we went to Kickstarter isn’t actually for the money,” said Smedley. “It’s for the community building. Kickstarter is a fabulous place to kickstart the community, not just the funding.” Hero’s Song is the first game from John Smedley’s PixelImage studio. (PixelImage) Pixelmage employs 13 workers. Smedley ran Sony Online Entertainment in San Diego for years, and has been in the local video game scene since 1993. The studio was known for its massively multi-player online games, including EverQuest, PlanetSide, DC Universe and others. Sony Online Entertainment was sold to a private equity firm in 2014 and renamed Daybreak Games, which produced the multiplayer zombie survival action game H1Z1. Smedley left Daybreak last summer to start the new studio. “I had a game in mind for many years,” he said. “I finally pulled the trigger.” “I could have never have made this game at Daybreak,” he continued. “It is too indie, and there is too much risk. When you are working with a company with a $100 million revenue line, you have to think a lot more carefully about the type of games you make. You are not as free to make any game you want. This is a passion product for me.” Hero’s Song is a 2D pixel art fantasy role playing game. Bill Trost, lead designer and co-creator of the EverQuest franchise, and Patrick Rothfuss, author of “The Name of the Wind,” are working on the project. “A lot of people don’t know that long before I tried to write a novel, I tried to write a computer game,” said Rothfuss in a statement. “So when John asked me if I wanted to be a part of the project, I was flattered and excited. I’ve been playing games forever, and I know how stories work.” Hero’s Song can be played individually, or online with hundreds of others. The company’s player hosted server method allows players to better control the fantasy worlds they create. “This is similar to games such as Minecraft where you can create a random world to be in,” said Smedley. “We have made that the single biggest part of the game. We simulate 3,000 years of history. Your character has a grandfather and a great, great grandfather.” Pixelmage aims to remain a small, independent studio, said Smedley. He thinks there is plenty of video game talent in San Diego, with about 2,500 game developer jobs in the region. “The goal is to build a company that makes super handcrafted games,” he said. “We want to stay indie, but we want our games to reach a wide audience by pricing them right and making them the type of games that audiences want to try.”
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--- abstract: 'We prove that a non-degenerate simple linear recurrence sequence $ (G_n(x))_{n=0}^{\infty} $ of polynomials satisfying some further conditions cannot contain arbitrary large powers of polynomials if the order of the sequence is at least two. In other words we will show that for $ m $ large enough there is no polynomial $ h(x) $ of degree $ \geq 2 $ such that $ (h(x))^m $ is an element of $ (G_n(x))_{n=0}^{\infty} $. The bound for $ m $ depends here only on the sequence $ (G_n(x))_{n=0}^{\infty} $. In the binary case we prove even more. We show that then there is a bound $ C $ on the index $ n $ of the sequence $ (G_n(x))_{n=0}^{\infty} $ such that only elements with index $ n \leq C $ can be a proper power.' address: 'University of Salzburg Department of Mathematics Hellbrunnerstr. 34 A-5020 Salzburg, Austria' author: - Clemens Fuchs - Sebastian Heintze title: Perfect powers in polynomial power sums --- Introduction ============ An interesting question that was studied in several recent papers (e.g. cf. [@B; @FK; @FKK; @FMZ; @R; @S; @Z1; @Z3; @Z4] and also [@FP1; @FP2; @PT; @FZ; @FMZ]) is what one can say about the decomposition of complex polynomials (i.e. elements of the ring ${\mathbb{C}}[x]$ of complex polynomials) regarding the composition operation. The invertible elements w.r.t. decomposition are the linear polynomials. We call $f(x)=g\circ h$ a non-trivial decomposition if neither $g$ nor $h$ is linear. We call $f(x)=g\circ h$ an $m$-decomposition if $\deg g=m$ and we say that $f$ is $m$-decomposable if an $m$-decomposition exists. We call $f$ indecomposable if $f$ admits only trivial decompositions. A pair $(g,h)$ is called equivalent to $(g',h')$ if there are $a,b\in\mathbb{C},a\neq 0$ such that $g(x)=g'(ax+b),$ $h(x)=(h'(x)-b)/a$. A pair $(g,h)$ is called cyclic if it is equivalent to $(g',x^m)$ and dihedral if it is equivalent to $(g'',T_m(x))$ where $(T_n)_{n=0}^\infty$ denotes the sequence of Chebyshev polynomials (defined by $T_n(x+1/x)=x^n+1/x^n$) and $g',g''\in\mathbb{C}[x]$. We call $f$ cyclic if it is equivalent to a polynomial $g$ with $g(x)=x^n$ for some $n>1$, and dihedral if it is equivalent to $g=T_n$ for some $n>2$; here equivalent means that there are linear polynomials $l_1,l_2$ such that $f=l_1\circ g\circ l_2$. Mainly, one is interested in non-trivial decompositions (with two factors, an [inner]{} and an [outer]{} factor) of polynomials with coefficients in $\mathbb{C}$. It is natural to restrict to a subset [$\mathcal{I}$]{} of $\mathbb{C}[x]$ which is described by a finite amount of data and then to ask whether or not all decompositions in this subset can be described [in finite terms]{} depending on the data describing the subset. In [@Z3] and [@Z1] Zannier studied such decompositions with special focus on the number $ l $ of terms of the polynomial $ f $. Let us consider for a moment lacunary polynomials, i.e. we set $\mathcal{I}=\{f\in\mathbb{C}[x]; f$ has at most $\ell$ non-constant terms$\}$. Motivated by previous work of Erdős [@E] and Schinzel [@Sch], Zannier [@Z1] finally proved that there are integers $p,J$ depending on $\ell$ and for every $1\leq j\leq J$ an algebraic variety $\mathcal{V}_j$ defined over $\mathbb{Q}$ and a lattice $\Lambda_j$ for which equations can be written down explicitly and (Laurent-)polynomials $f_j,h_j\in\mathbb{Q}[\mathcal{V}_j][z_1^{\pm 1},\ldots,z_p^{\pm 1}],g_j\in\mathbb{Q}[\mathcal{V}_j][z]$ with coefficients in the coordinate ring of the variety such that the following holds: $g_j\circ h_j=f_j$ is a (Laurent-)polynomial with $\ell$ non-constant terms with coefficients in the coordinate ring; for every point $P\in\mathcal{V}_j(\mathbb{C})$ and $(u_1,\ldots,u_p)\in\Lambda_j$ one gets a decomposition $f_j(P,x^{u_1},$ $\ldots,x^{u_p})=g_j(P,h_j(P,x^{u_1},\ldots,x^{u_p}))$; conversely, for every polynomial $f\in\mathbb{C}[x]$ with $\ell$ non-constant terms and every non-trivial decomposition $f(x)=g\circ h$ with $h(x)$ not of the shape $ax^m+b,m\in\mathbb{N},a,b\in\mathbb{C}$ there is a $j$, a point $P\in\mathcal{V}_j(\mathbb{C})$ and $(u_1,\ldots,u_p)\in\Lambda_j$ such that $f(x)=$ $f_j(P,x^{u_1},\ldots,x^{u_p}),g(x)=g_j(P,x),h(x)=h_j(P,x^{u_1},\ldots,x^{u_p})$. This result is based on an intermediate result [@Z3] that the outer decomposition factor has degree bounded explicitly in terms of $l$ unless the inner decomposition factor is cyclic. Another instance of this approach is given by [$\mathcal{I}=\{G_n(x); n\in\mathbb{N}\}$]{}, where $G_n(x)$ are elements of a linear recurrence sequence $(G_n)_{n=0}^\infty$ of polynomials in $\mathbb{C}[x]$. To fix terms we shall assume that the recurrence is given by $G_{n+d}(x)=A_{d-1}(x)G_{n+d-1}(x)+\cdots+A_0(x)G_n(x),$ with $A_0,\ldots,A_{d-1}\in\mathbb{C}\left[x\right]$ and initial terms $G_0,\ldots,G_{d-1}\in\mathbb{C}[x]$. Denote by $\alpha_1,\ldots,\alpha_t$ the distinct characteristic roots of the sequence, that is the characteristic polynomial $\mathcal{G}\in\mathbb{C}(x)[T]$ splits as $ \mathcal{G}(T)=T^d-A_{d-1}T^{d-1}-\cdots - A_0=(T-\alpha_1)^{k_1}(T-\alpha_2)^{k_2}\cdots(T-\alpha_t)^{k_t}, $ where $k_1,\ldots,k_t\in\mathbb{N}$. Then $G_n(x)$ admits a representation of the form $ G_n(x)=a_1\alpha_1^n+a_2\alpha_2^n+\cdots+a_t\alpha_t^n. $ We say that the recurrence is [minimal]{} if $(G_n)_{n=0}^{\infty}$ does not satisfy a recurrence relation with smaller $d$ and coefficients in $\mathbb{C}[x]$. We say that the recurrence is [non-degenerate]{} if $\alpha_i/\alpha_j\not\in \mathbb{C}^*$ for all $i\neq j$. We say that the recurrence is [simple]{} if $k_1=\cdots=k_t=1$; in this case the $a_i$’s lie in $\mathbb{C}(x,\alpha_1,\ldots,\alpha_t)$. We say that the recurrence is a [polynomial power sum]{} if $a_1,\ldots,a_d\in\mathbb{C}$ and $\alpha_1,\ldots,\alpha_d\in\mathbb{C}[x]$. We say that a polynomial power sum satisfies the [dominant root condition]{} if $\deg(\alpha_1)>\deg(\alpha_i)$ for $i>1$. As an important starting point and motivation we mention that for a given sequence $(G_n)_{n=0}^\infty$ the decompositions of the form $G_n(x)=G_m\circ h$ for a fixed polynomial $h\in\mathbb{C}[x], \deg h\geq 2$ were considered by Pethő, Tichy and the first author in a series of papers [@FPT1; @F; @FPT2; @FPT3]. It was again Zannier [@Z2] who proved in general that this equation has only finitely many solutions $(n,m),n\neq m$, unless $h$ is cyclic or dihedral; in this case there are infinitely many solutions coming from a generic equation. Moreover, one has to take the following [trivial situations]{} into account: If $G_m(x)\in\mathbb{C}[h(x)]$ for every $m\in\mathbb{N}$, then it is not possible to bound the degree of $g$ independently of $n$ assuming $G_n=g\circ h$. If $G_n(x)=g(H_n(x))$ with $g\in\mathbb{C}[x],\deg g=m$ and $(H_n)_{n=0}^\infty$ is another linear recurrence sequence in $\mathbb{C}[x]$, then obviously we again have a sought decomposition for every $n\in\mathbb{N}$. Consider as a nice example the Fibonacci polynomials $F_n$ defined by $F_0(x)=0, F_1(x)=1,$ $F_{n+2}(x)=x F_{n+1}(x)+F_{n}(x)$. It is easy to see that for all odd $n\ge 3$, $F_n$ is an even polynomial of degree $n-1$, and hence if $n\ge5$ is odd, $F_n(x)$ can be written as $F_n(x)=g\circ h$, where $h(x)=x^2$ and $\deg g=(n-1)/2$. Observe that $h$ is cyclic and that the degree of $g$ cannot be bounded independently of $n$ assuming $F_n(x)=g(h(x))$ and $\deg h>1$. Also, for Chebyshev polynomials $T_n$ it is well-known that $T_{mn}(x)=T_m\circ T_n$ for any $m, n\in \mathbb{N}$. Observe that $h$ is dihedral and, since $\deg T_n=n$, one cannot bound $\deg g$ independently of $n$ assuming $T_n(x)=g(h(x))$ and $\deg h>1$. The main result of the first author proved together with Karolus and Kreso in [@FKK] is the following: Let $(G_n)_{n=0}^\infty$ be a minimal non-degenerate simple second order linear recurrence sequence. Assume that $G_n$ is decomposable for some $n\in \mathbb{N}$ and write $G_n(x)=g(h(x))$, where $h$ is indecomposable. Since $\deg h\geq 2$, there exists a root $y\neq x$ in its splitting field over $\mathbb{C}(h(x))$. Clearly, $h(x)=h(y)$. We have $G_n(x)=\pi_1\alpha_1^n+\pi_2\alpha_2^n$. Conjugating (in some fixed algebraic closure of $\mathbb{C}(x)$ containing $\alpha_1,\alpha_2$) over $\mathbb{C}(h(x))$ via $x\mapsto y$, we get a sequence $(G_n(y))_{n=0}^\infty$ with $G_n(y)\in\mathbb{C}[y]$, which satisfies the same minimal non-degenerate simple recurrence relation as $(G_n(x))_{n=0}^\infty$ with $x$ replaced by $y$. We conclude that $G_n(y)=\rho_1\beta_1^n+\rho_2\beta_2^n$. Since $h(x)=h(y)$, we get $G_n(x)=G_n(y)$, that is $$\label{p2-eq:sumstar} \pi_1\alpha_1^n + \pi_2\alpha_2^n=\rho_1\beta_1^n+\rho_2\beta_2^n.\tag{$\star$}$$ Then there is a positive real constant $C=C(\{A_i, G_i; i=1,2\})$ with the following property: If for some $n$ we have $G_n(x)=g(h(x))$, where $h$ is indecomposable and neither dihedral nor cyclic, and if has no proper vanishing subsum, then it holds that $\deg g\leq C$. We remark that if $h$ is not cyclic, then equation has a proper vanishing subsum if and only if $ \pi_1\pi_2A_0(x)^n\in \mathbb{C}(h(x)). $ In particular, the existence of a proper vanishing subsum does not depend on the choice of the conjugate $y$ of $x$ over $\mathbb{C}(h(x))$. However, clearly depends on $n$ and $h$ for which $G_n(x)=g(h(x))$ which are not known a priori. Note that if $h$ is not cyclic and $A_0(x)=a_0\in \mathbb{C}$, $\pi_1\pi_2=\pi\in \mathbb{C}$, then there exists a vanishing subsum of and one cannot apply the theorem in question; for example, this is the case for Chebyshev polynomials $T_n$. It is possible to give sufficient conditions in which has no proper vanishing subsum. We do not give further details here. Furthermore in [@FK] the first author and Karolus proved the following: Let $(G_n)_{n=0}^\infty$ be a non-degenerate polynomial power sum which satisfies the dominant root condition. Moreover, let $m\geq 2$ be an integer. Write $m_0$ for the least integer such that $\alpha_1^{m_0/m}\in \mathbb{C}[x]$. Then there is an effectively computable positive constant $C$ such that the following holds: Assume that for some $n\in\mathbb{N}$ with $n>C$ we have $G_n(x)=g\circ h$ with $\deg g=m,\deg h>1$. Then there are $c_1,\ldots,c_l\in\mathbb{C}$ such that $$h(x)=c_1\gamma_1^\ell+\cdots +c_l\gamma_l^\ell,$$ where $m_0\ell=n$ and $l\in\mathbb{N}$ is bounded explicitly in terms of $m,d$ and $\deg(\alpha_1)+\cdots+\deg(\alpha_d)$ and $\gamma_1,\ldots,\gamma_l\in\mathbb{C}(x)$ can be given explicitly in terms of $\alpha_1,\ldots,\alpha_d$, both independently of $n$. Furthermore, it follows that there is an explicitly computable positive constant $C$, and a subvariety $\mathcal{V}$ of $\mathbb{A}^{l+m+1}\times\mathbb{G}_{\textup{m}}^{t}$ with $t,l$ bounded explicitly in terms of $m,d$ and $\deg(\alpha_1)+\cdots+\deg(\alpha_d)$ for which a system of polynomial-exponential equations in the polynomial variables $c_1,\ldots,c_l,g_0,\ldots,g_m$ and the exponential variable $\ell$ (with coefficients in $\mathbb{Q}$) can be written down explicitly such that the following holds: Defining $G(x)=g_0x^m+g_1x^{m-1}+\cdots +g_m\in\mathbb{C}[\mathcal{V}][x]$ and $H_\ell=c_1\gamma_1^\ell+c_2\gamma_2^\ell+\cdots +c_l\gamma_l^\ell\in\mathbb{C}[\mathcal{V}][x]$, where $\gamma_1,\ldots,\gamma_l\in\mathbb{C}(x)$ can be given explicitly in terms of $\alpha_1,\ldots,\alpha_d$, then $G_{m_0\ell}=G\circ H_\ell$ holds as an equation in $x$ with coefficients in the coordinate ring of $\mathcal{V}$. In particular, for any point $P=(c_1,\ldots,c_l,g_0,\ldots,g_m,\ell)\in\mathcal{V}(\mathbb{C})$ we get a decomposition $G_n(x)=g\circ h$, $g(x)=G(P,x)\in\mathbb{C}[x]$ and $h(x)=H_l(P,x)\in\mathbb{C}[x]$ (with $n=m_0\ell$). Conversely, let $G_n(x)=g\circ h$ be a decomposition of $G_n(x)$ for some $n\in\mathbb{N}$ with $g,h\in\mathbb{C}[x],\deg g=m, \deg h>1$. Then either $n\leq C$ or there exists a point $P=(g_0,\ldots,g_m,c_1,\ldots,c_l,\ell)\in\mathcal{V}(\mathbb{C})$ with $g(x)=G(P,x)$ and $h(x)=H_\ell(P,x)$ and $n=m_0\ell$. A number of interesting special cases follow and are discussed, in particular that the results include a description in finite terms of all $m$-th powers in a linear recurrence sequence of polynomials satisfying the conditions of the theorem. Observe that in [@FKK] only [binary]{} recurrences are covered and that in [@FK] the order is not restricted but instead only [polynomials power sums satisfying the dominant root condition]{} are handled. In this paper we revisit the situation when the outer polynomial is fixed to be $ g(x) = x^m $. We first quickly review the situation for lacunary polynomials. Here it is natural to consider a non-constant complex polynomial with constant term equal to $1$ and with $k$ additional non-constant terms. The results [@S] and [@Z1] immediately imply that then $m\leq k$. For $k\leq 3$ a precise classification of all solutions can be found in [@CZ] (see Lemma 2.1). The analogous result for $k=4$ was given in the recent PhD thesis [@M]. Now we turn back to polynomial power sums. Assuming the dominant root condition we will prove that the second case which states that $ h $ is of a special form cannot occur in this setting. For the binary case we will be able to prove a stronger result than for the general one of order greater than two. We are going to give a counterexample which shows that the stronger result is in general not true for the case of an arbitrary order $ d $ of the linear recurrence sequence. Results ======= During the whole paper we are implicitly assuming that the polynomial $ h(x) $ has degree $ \deg h \geq 2 $. Let us now first state our two results that we are going to prove in the next section: We start with the situation of binary recurrences. \[p2-thm:binarycase\] Let $ (G_n(x))_{n=0}^{\infty} $ be a non-degenerate simple linear recurrence sequence of order $ d = 2 $ with power sum representation $ G_n(x) = a_1 \alpha_1^n + a_2 \alpha_2^n $ such that $ \alpha_1, \alpha_2 \in {\mathbb{C}}[x] $ are polynomials and $ a_1, a_2 \in {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ satisfy $ \frac{a_2}{a_1} \in {\mathbb{C}}$. Assume furthermore that $ \deg \alpha_1 > \deg \alpha_2 $. Then there exists a constant $ C $, which depends only on $ \alpha_1, \alpha_2, a_1, a_2 $, such that for all $ n > C $ there is no integer $ m \geq 2 $ and no polynomial $ h(x) \in {\mathbb{C}}[x] $ with the property $ G_n(x) = (h(x))^m $. In particular this implies that for $ m $ large enough there is no index $ n $ and no polynomial $ h(x) \in {\mathbb{C}}[x] $ such that $ G_n(x) = (h(x))^m $. In the case of recurrences of arbitrary large order we prove a slightly weaker result (essentially, the final conclusion in the previous theorem). \[p2-thm:generalcase\] Let $ (G_n(x))_{n=0}^{\infty} $ be a non-degenerate simple linear recurrence sequence of order $ d \geq 3 $ with power sum representation $ G_n(x) = a_1 \alpha_1^n + \cdots + a_d \alpha_d^n $ such that $ \alpha_1, \ldots, \alpha_d \in {\mathbb{C}}[x] $ are polynomials and $ a_1, \ldots, a_d \in {\mathbb{C}}$ are constant. Assume furthermore that $ \deg \alpha_1 > \deg \alpha_2 > \deg \alpha_3 \geq \deg \alpha_4 \geq \cdots \geq \deg \alpha_d $. Then for $ m $ large enough there is no index $ n $ and no polynomial $ h(x) \in {\mathbb{C}}[x] $ such that $ G_n(x) = (h(x))^m $. In the case of a non-degenerate simple linear recurrence sequence of order $ d \geq 3 $ we cannot give in general a bound $ C $ for the index $ n $ such that all elements of the sequence $ (G_n(x))_{n=0}^{\infty} $ with index $ n > C $ are no proper powers. Consider for instance the third order sequence given by $ G_n(x) = (x^n+1)^2 = (x^2)^n + 2x^n + 1^n $ which has the property that each element is at least a square. We can easily modify this example to generate counterexamples for any fixed parameter $ m $ if we consider $ G_n(x) = (x^n+1)^m $. For the proof we mainly follow the proof of [@FK]. Therefore, we start from $G_n(x)=h(x)^m$. Thus $h(x)=\zeta G_n(x)^{1/m}$ (as formal power series). Then one uses the multinomial series to expand $G_n(x)^{1/m}$; in order to justify this multiple expansion, the dominant root condition on the degrees of the characteristic roots is needed. Afterwards a function field variant of the Schmidt subspace theorem (due to Zannier, see Proposition \[p2-prop:functionfieldsubspace\] below) is used, to find that either $n$ is bounded or $h$ can be expressed in the form $c_0t_0+c_1t_1+\cdots +c_{L-1}t_{L-1}$, where $c_i\in{\mathbb{C}}$ and $t_i$ come from a finite set. We have to show that the latter case is impossible. Plugging the expression for $h(x)$ into $G_n(x)=h(x)^m$ and comparing degrees and leading coefficients gives the result. The proof of the two theorems are quite similar, the difference involve some subtleties that we try to work out. We remark that the method of proof exactly requires $(G_n(x))_{n=0}^\infty$ to be a polynomial power sum with dominant root condition. Preliminaries ============= In the sequel we will need the following notations: For $ c \in {\mathbb{C}}$ and $ f(x) \in {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ where $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ is the rational function field over $ {\mathbb{C}}$ denote by $ \nu_c(f) $ the unique integer such that $ f(x) = (x-c)^{\nu_c(f)} p(x) / q(x) $ with $ p(x),q(x) \in {\mathbb{C}}[x] $ such that $ p(c)q(c) \neq 0 $. Further denote by $ \nu_{\infty}(f) = \deg q - \deg p $ if $ f(x) = p(x) / q(x) $. These functions $ \nu $ are up to equivalence all valuations on $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $. If $ \nu_c(f) > 0 $, then $ c $ is called a zero of $ f $, and if $ \nu_c(f) < 0 $, then $ c $ is called a pole of $ f $. For a finite extension $ F $ of $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ each valuation on $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ can be extended to no more than $ [F : {\mathbb{C}}(x)] $ valuations on $ F $. This again gives all valuations on $ F $. Both, in $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ as well as in $ F $ the sum-formula $$\sum_{\nu} \nu(f) = 0$$ holds, where $ \sum_{\nu} $ means that the sum is taken over all valuations on the considered function field. Each valuation on a function field corresponds to a place and vice versa. The set of all places of the function field $ F $ is denoted by $ {\mathbb{P}}_F $. If $ F' $ is a finite extension of $ F $, then we say that $ P' \in {\mathbb{P}}_{F'} $ lies over $ P \in {\mathbb{P}}_F $ if $ P \subseteq P' $ and denote this fact by $ P' \mid P $. In this case there exists an integer $ e(P' \mid P) $, the so-called ramification index of $ P' $ over $ P $, such that for all $ x \in F $ the equality $ \nu_{P'}(x) = e(P' \mid P) \cdot \nu_P(x) $ holds. To prepare the proofs of our two theorems we present subsequently three auxiliary results that are used in [@FK] as well. The first one also can be found in [@St]: \[p2-prop:kummerext\] Let $ F/{\mathbb{C}}$ be a function field in one variable. Suppose that $ u \in F $ satisfies $ u \neq w^d $ for all $ w \in F $ and $ d \mid n $, $ d > 1 $. Let $ F' = F(z) $ with $ z^n = u $. Then $ F' $ is said to be a Kummer extension of $ F $ and we have: a) The polynomial $ \varphi(T) = T^n - u $ is the minimal polynomial of $ z $ over $ F $ (in particular, it is irreducible over $ F $). The extension $ F'/F $ is Galois of degree $ n $; its Galois group is cyclic and all automorphisms of $ F'/F $ are given by $ \sigma(z) = \zeta z $, where $ \zeta \in {\mathbb{C}}$ is an $ n $-th root of unity. b) Let $ P \in {\mathbb{P}}_F $ and $ P' \in {\mathbb{P}}_{F'} $ be an extension of $ P $. Let $ r_P := \gcd {\left( n, \nu_P(u) \right)} $. Then $ e(P'|P) = n/r_P $. c) Denote by $ {\mathfrak{g}}$ (resp. $ {\mathfrak{g}}' $) the genus of $ F/{\mathbb{C}}$ (resp. $ F'/{\mathbb{C}}$). Then $${\mathfrak{g}}' = 1 + n({\mathfrak{g}}-1) + \frac{1}{2} \sum_{P \in {\mathbb{P}}_F} (n-r_P) \deg P.$$ The following proposition can be seen as a function field analogue of the Schmidt subspace theorem. It will play an important role in our proofs. The reader can find a proof for it in [@Z1]: \[p2-prop:functionfieldsubspace\] Let $ F/{\mathbb{C}}$ be a function field in one variable, of genus $ {\mathfrak{g}}$, let $ \varphi_1, \ldots, \varphi_n \in F $ be linearly independent over $ {\mathbb{C}}$ and let $ r \in {\left\{ 0,1, \ldots, n \right\}} $. Let $ S $ be a finite set of places of $ F $ containing all the poles of $ \varphi_1, \ldots, \varphi_n $ and all the zeros of $ \varphi_1, \ldots, \varphi_r $. Put $ \sigma = \sum_{i=1}^{n} \varphi_i $. Then $$\sum_{\nu \in S} \left( \nu(\sigma) - \min_{i=1, \ldots, n} \nu(\varphi_i) \right) \leq {\begin{pmatrix} n \\ 2 \end{pmatrix}} ({\left| S \right|} + 2{\mathfrak{g}}- 2) + \sum_{i=r+1}^{n} \deg (\varphi_i).$$ In the next section we will take use of height functions in function fields. Let us therefore define the height of an element $ f \in F^* $ by $${\mathcal{H}}(f) := - \sum_{\nu} \min {\left( 0, \nu(f) \right)} = \sum_{\nu} \max {\left( 0, \nu(f) \right)}$$ where again the sum is taken over all valuations on the function field $ F / {\mathbb{C}}$. Additionally we define $ {\mathcal{H}}(0) = \infty $. These height function satisfies some basic properties that are listed in the following lemma which is proven in [@FKK]: \[p2-lemma:heightproperties\] Denote as above by $ {\mathcal{H}}$ the projective height on $ F/{\mathbb{C}}$. Then for $ f,g \in F^* $ the following properties hold: a) $ {\mathcal{H}}(f) \geq 0 $ and $ {\mathcal{H}}(f) = {\mathcal{H}}(1/f) $, b) $ {\mathcal{H}}(f) - {\mathcal{H}}(g) \leq {\mathcal{H}}(f+g) \leq {\mathcal{H}}(f) + {\mathcal{H}}(g) $, c) $ {\mathcal{H}}(f) - {\mathcal{H}}(g) \leq {\mathcal{H}}(fg) \leq {\mathcal{H}}(f) + {\mathcal{H}}(g) $, d) $ {\mathcal{H}}(f^n) = {\left| n \right|} \cdot {\mathcal{H}}(f) $, e) $ {\mathcal{H}}(f) = 0 \iff f \in {\mathbb{C}}^* $, f) $ {\mathcal{H}}(A(f)) = \deg A \cdot {\mathcal{H}}(f) $ for any $ A \in {\mathbb{C}}[T] \setminus {\left\{ 0 \right\}} $. Proofs ====== We are now ready to prove our two theorems. At this position we remark that our proofs are very similar to the proof of Theorem 1 in [@FK] where the same procedure is used. Assume that there exists an index $ n $, an integer $ m \geq 2 $ and a polynomial $ h(x) $ such that $ G_n(x) = (h(x))^m $. Thus we have $ h(x) = \zeta (G_n(x))^{1/m} $ for an $ m $-th root of unity $ \zeta $. Using the power sum representation of $ G_n(x) $ as well as the binomial series expansion we get $$\begin{aligned} h(x) &= \zeta (G_n(x))^{1/m} = \zeta (a_1 \alpha_1^n + a_2 \alpha_2^n)^{1/m} \nonumber \\ &= \zeta a_1^{1/m} \alpha_1^{n/m} \left( 1 + \frac{a_2}{a_1} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^n \right)^{1/m} \nonumber \\ &= \zeta a_1^{1/m} \alpha_1^{n/m} \sum_{h_2=0}^{\infty} {\begin{pmatrix} 1/m \\ h_2 \end{pmatrix}} \left( \frac{a_2}{a_1} \right)^{h_2} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_2} \nonumber \\ &\label{p2-eq:sumforh}= \sum_{h_2=0}^{\infty} t_{h_2}(x) \end{aligned}$$ with the definition $$\begin{aligned} t_{h_2}(x) :&= \zeta a_1^{1/m} \alpha_1^{n/m} {\begin{pmatrix} 1/m \\ h_2 \end{pmatrix}} \left( \frac{a_2}{a_1} \right)^{h_2} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_2} \\ &= b_{h_2} a_1^{1/m} \alpha_1^{n/m} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_2}. \end{aligned}$$ Since we have required in the theorem that $ \frac{a_2}{a_1} \in {\mathbb{C}}$, it holds that $$b_{h_2} := \zeta {\begin{pmatrix} 1/m \\ h_2 \end{pmatrix}} \left( \frac{a_2}{a_1} \right)^{h_2} \in {\mathbb{C}}.$$ Let now $ F = {\mathbb{C}}(x, \alpha_1(x)^{1/m}) $ and $ m_0 $ be the smallest positive integer such that $ \alpha_1(x)^{m_0/m} \in {\mathbb{C}}(x) $. Applying Proposition \[p2-prop:kummerext\] we get that $ F $ is a Kummer extension of $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ and that $ T^{m_0} - \alpha_1(x)^{m_0/m} $ is the minimal polynomial of $ \alpha_1(x)^{1/m} $ over $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $. Moreover, we get that only places in $ F $ above $ \infty $ and the roots of $ \alpha_1 $ as a polynomial in $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ can ramify. Since our field of constants is $ {\mathbb{C}}$ and therefore algebraically closed, we have $ \deg P = 1 $ for all places $ P $. Combined with $ {\mathfrak{g}}_{{\mathbb{C}}(x)} = 0 $ the genus formula of Proposition \[p2-prop:kummerext\] yields $$\begin{aligned} 2{\mathfrak{g}}_F - 2 &= 2 m_0 ({\mathfrak{g}}_{{\mathbb{C}}(x)} - 1) + \sum_{P \in {\mathbb{P}}_{{\mathbb{C}}(x)}} (m_0-r_P) \deg P \\ &\leq -2 m_0 + \sum_{P \in {\mathbb{P}}_{{\mathbb{C}}(x)} : m_0 > r_P} m_0 \\ &\leq -2 m_0 + m_0 (1 + \deg \alpha_1) = m_0 (\deg \alpha_1 - 1). \end{aligned}$$ Moreover, let $ F' = F(a_1^{1/m}) $ and $ m_1 $ be the smallest positive integer such that $ a_1^{m_1/m} \in F $. Again the application of Proposition \[p2-prop:kummerext\] yields that $ F' $ is a Kummer extension of $ F $. Furthermore, we get that only places in $ F' $ above $ \infty $ and the zeros and poles of $ a_1 $ as an element of $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ can ramify. Since our field of constants is $ {\mathbb{C}}$ and therefore algebraically closed, we have $ \deg P = 1 $ for all places $ P $. Combined with the bound on $ {\mathfrak{g}}_F $ the genus formula of Proposition \[p2-prop:kummerext\] yields $$\begin{aligned} 2{\mathfrak{g}}_{F'} - 2 &= m_1 (2{\mathfrak{g}}_F - 2) + \sum_{P \in {\mathbb{P}}_F} (m_1-r_P) \deg P \\ &\leq m_1 m_0 (\deg \alpha_1 - 1) + \sum_{P \in {\mathbb{P}}_F : m_1 > r_P} m_1 \\ &\leq m_1 m_0 (\deg \alpha_1 - 1) + m_1 m_0 (1 + 2{\mathcal{H}}(a_1)) \\ &= m_1 m_0 (\deg \alpha_1 + 2{\mathcal{H}}(a_1)). \end{aligned}$$ The next step is to estimate the valuation of the $ t_{h_2} $ corresponding to the infinite place of $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $. We get the following lower bound: $$\begin{aligned} \nu_{\infty}(t_{h_2}(x)) &= \nu_{\infty}\left( a_1^{1/m} \alpha_1^{n/m} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_2} \right) \\ &= \frac{1}{m} \nu_{\infty}(a_1) + n \left( \frac{1}{m} \nu_{\infty}(\alpha_1) + h_2 (\nu_{\infty}(\alpha_2) - \nu_{\infty}(\alpha_1)) \right) \\ &= \frac{1}{m} \nu_{\infty}(a_1) + n \left( \frac{-\deg \alpha_1}{m} + h_2 (\deg \alpha_1 - \deg \alpha_2) \right) \\ &\geq \frac{1}{m} \nu_{\infty}(a_1) + n \left( h_2 - \frac{\deg \alpha_1}{m} \right). \end{aligned}$$ Let $ J \in {\mathbb{N}}$ be arbitrary. Therefore for $ h_2 \geq J + \frac{\deg \alpha_1}{m} $ we have $ \nu_{\infty}(t_{h_2}(x)) \geq \frac{1}{m} \nu_{\infty}(a_1) + nJ $. This allows us to split the above sum representation for $ h(x) $ in the following way: $$h(x) = t_0(x) + t_1(x) + \cdots + t_{L-1}(x) + \sum_{\nu_{\infty}(t_{h_2}(x)) \geq \frac{1}{m} \nu_{\infty}(a_1) + nJ} t_{h_2}(x)$$ with $ L-1 < J + \frac{\deg \alpha_1}{m} $. We now distinguish between two cases which will be handled in completely different ways. First we assume that $ {\left\{ h(x), t_0(x), \ldots, t_{L-1}(x) \right\}} $ is linearly independent over $ {\mathbb{C}}$. Later we will consider the case that $ {\left\{ h(x), t_0(x), \ldots, t_{L-1}(x) \right\}} $ is linearly dependent over $ {\mathbb{C}}$. So let us now assume that $ {\left\{ h(x), t_0(x), \ldots, t_{L-1}(x) \right\}} $ is linearly independent over $ {\mathbb{C}}$. We aim to apply Proposition \[p2-prop:functionfieldsubspace\]. To do so let us fix a finite set $ S $ of places of $ F' $ which contains all zeros and poles of $ t_0(x), \ldots, t_{L-1}(x) $ as well as all poles of $ h(x) $. Therefore $ S $ can be chosen in a way such that it contains at most the places above $ \infty $, the zeros of $ \alpha_1 $ and $ \alpha_2 $ and the zeros and poles of $ a_1 $. This gives an upper bound on the number of elements in $ S $: $${\left| S \right|} \leq m_1 m_0 (1 + \deg \alpha_1 + \deg \alpha_2 + 2{\mathcal{H}}(a_1)).$$ Further we write $ \varphi_0 = -t_0(x), \ldots, \varphi_{L-1} = -t_{L-1}(x) $ and $ \varphi_L = h(x) $. We also define $ \sigma = \sum_{i=0}^{L} \varphi_i = \sum_{\nu_{\infty}(t_{h_2}(x)) \geq \frac{1}{m} \nu_{\infty}(a_1) + nJ} t_{h_2}(x) $. Since $ \deg (h(x)) = [F' : {\mathbb{C}}(h(x))] = [F' : F] \cdot [F : {\mathbb{C}}(h(x))] = m_1 {\mathcal{H}}(h(x)) = m_1 \deg h \cdot {\mathcal{H}}(x) = m_1 \deg h \cdot [F : {\mathbb{C}}(x)] = m_1 m_0 \deg h $ Proposition \[p2-prop:functionfieldsubspace\] implies $$\begin{aligned} \sum_{\nu \in S} &\left( \nu(\sigma) - \min_{i=0, \ldots, L} \nu(\varphi_i) \right) \leq \\ &\leq {\begin{pmatrix} L+1 \\ 2 \end{pmatrix}} ({\left| S \right|} + 2{\mathfrak{g}}_{F'} - 2) + \deg (h(x)) \\ &\leq \frac{1}{2} L (L+1) m_1 m_0 (1 + 2 \deg \alpha_1 + \deg \alpha_2 + 4 {\mathcal{H}}(a_1)) + m_1 m_0 \deg h \\ &\leq L (L+1) m_1 m_0 (1 + \deg \alpha_1 + \deg \alpha_2 + 2{\mathcal{H}}(a_1)) + m_1 m_0 \deg h. \end{aligned}$$ On the other hand we have $ \nu(\sigma) \geq \min_{i=0, \ldots, L} \nu(\varphi_i) $ for every valuation $ \nu $ and thus the lower bound $$\begin{aligned} \sum_{\nu \in S} \left( \nu(\sigma) - \min_{i=0, \ldots, L} \nu(\varphi_i) \right) &\geq \sum_{P \mid \infty} \left( \nu_P(\sigma) - \min_{i=0, \ldots, L} \nu_P(\varphi_i) \right) \\ &\geq \sum_{P \mid \infty} \left( \nu_P(\sigma) - \nu_P(h(x)) \right) \\ &= \sum_{P \mid \infty} \nu_P(\sigma) - \sum_{P \mid \infty} e(P \mid \infty) \cdot \nu_{\infty}(h(x)) \\ &= \sum_{P \mid \infty} \nu_P(\sigma) - m_1 m_0 \nu_{\infty}(h(x)) \\ &= \sum_{P \mid \infty} e(P \mid \infty) \cdot \nu_{\infty}(\sigma) + m_1 m_0 \deg h \\ &= m_1 m_0 \nu_{\infty}(\sigma) + m_1 m_0 \deg h \\ &\geq \frac{m_1 m_0}{m} \nu_{\infty}(a_1) + m_1 m_0 nJ + m_1 m_0 \deg h. \end{aligned}$$ Let us now compare the upper and lower bounds. Since $ m_1 m_0 \deg h $ appears on both sides, we can subtract it and get $$\frac{m_1 m_0}{m} \nu_{\infty}(a_1) + m_1 m_0 nJ \leq L (L+1) m_1 m_0 (1 + \deg \alpha_1 + \deg \alpha_2 + 2{\mathcal{H}}(a_1)).$$ Dividing by $ m_1 m_0 $ and isolating the term containing $ n $ yields $$nJ \leq L (L+1) (1 + \deg \alpha_1 + \deg \alpha_2 + 2{\mathcal{H}}(a_1)) + {\left| \nu_{\infty}(a_1) \right|}.$$ Since $ J \in {\mathbb{N}}$ was arbitrary we can now choose $ J = 1 $. Remember that $ L-1 < J + \frac{\deg \alpha_1}{m} $ and therefore $ L \leq 1 + J + \deg \alpha_1 = 2 + \deg \alpha_1 $. Hence $$\label{p2-eq:boundforn} n \leq (2 + \deg \alpha_1) (3 + \deg \alpha_1) (1 + \deg \alpha_1 + \deg \alpha_2 + 2{\mathcal{H}}(a_1)) + {\left| \nu_{\infty}(a_1) \right|}.$$ After this we consider now the case that $ {\left\{ h(x), t_0(x), \ldots, t_{L-1}(x) \right\}} $ is linearly dependent over $ {\mathbb{C}}$. We can assume that $ {\left\{ t_0(x), \ldots, t_{L-1}(x) \right\}} $ is linearly independent, since otherwise we are able to group them together and the first case is still working if the $ t_{h_2}(x) $ have constant coefficients. This implies that in a relation of linear dependence $ h(x) $ has a nonzero coefficient. Thus there exist complex numbers $ c_i \in {\mathbb{C}}$ such that $$\label{p2-eq:binarylasum} h(x) = \sum_{i=0}^{L-1} c_i t_i(x).$$ What we are doing subsequently is a reverse induction. We will show $ c_{L-1} = 0 $, then $ c_{L-2} = 0 $ and so on until only $ c_0 $ remains. During the following calculations we will use the abbreviations $ \beta_1 := \alpha_1^n $ and $ \beta_2 := \alpha_2^n $. Furthermore let $ d_i = b_i c_i $. We start with equation and get $$\begin{aligned} h(x) &= c_0 t_0(x) + \cdots + c_{L-1} t_{L-1}(x) \\ &= d_0 a_1^{1/m} \alpha_1^{n/m} + d_1 a_1^{1/m} \alpha_1^{n/m} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^{n} + \cdots + d_{L-1} a_1^{1/m} \alpha_1^{n/m} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^{n(L-1)} \\ &= d_0 a_1^{1/m} \beta_1^{1/m} + d_1 a_1^{1/m} \beta_1^{1/m} \frac{\beta_2}{\beta_1} + \cdots + d_{L-1} a_1^{1/m} \beta_1^{1/m} \left( \frac{\beta_2}{\beta_1} \right)^{L-1} \\ &= a_1^{1/m} \beta_1^{1/m} \left( d_0 + d_1 \frac{\beta_2}{\beta_1} + \cdots + d_{L-1} \left( \frac{\beta_2}{\beta_1} \right)^{L-1} \right) \end{aligned}$$ as well as $$a_1 \beta_1 + a_2 \beta_2 = (h(x))^m = a_1 \beta_1 \left( d_0 + d_1 \frac{\beta_2}{\beta_1} + \cdots + d_{L-1} \left( \frac{\beta_2}{\beta_1} \right)^{L-1} \right)^m.$$ Multiplying with $ \beta_1^{m(L-1)} $ and dividing by $ a_1 $ yields $$\begin{aligned} \beta_1^{1+m(L-1)} + \frac{a_2}{a_1} \beta_1^{m(L-1)} \beta_2 &= \beta_1 \left( d_0 \beta_1^{L-1} + d_1 \beta_1^{L-2} \beta_2 + \cdots + d_{L-1} \beta_2^{L-1} \right)^m \\ &= d_0^m \beta_1^{1+m(L-1)} + m d_0^{m-1} d_1 \beta_1^{m(L-1)} \beta_2 \\ &\hspace{0.5cm}+ \left( {\begin{pmatrix} m \\ 2 \end{pmatrix}} d_0^{m-2} d_1^2 + m d_0^{m-1} d_2 \right) \beta_1^{m(L-1)-1} \beta_2^2 \\ &\hspace{0.5cm}+ \cdots + d_{L-1}^m \beta_1 \beta_2^{m(L-1)}. \end{aligned}$$ Now we take a closer look at the coefficients of the monomials $ \beta_1^i \beta_2^j $ in the above equation. We can rewrite the last equation as $$\begin{aligned} (1-d_0^m) \beta_1^{1+m(L-1)} &= \left( m d_0^{m-1} d_1 - \frac{a_2}{a_1} \right) \beta_1^{m(L-1)} \beta_2 \nonumber \\ &\label{p2-eq:comparedegstep1}\hspace{0.5cm}+ \left( {\begin{pmatrix} m \\ 2 \end{pmatrix}} d_0^{m-2} d_1^2 + m d_0^{m-1} d_2 \right) \beta_1^{m(L-1)-1} \beta_2^2 \\ &\hspace{0.5cm}+ \cdots + d_{L-1}^m \beta_1 \beta_2^{m(L-1)}. \nonumber \end{aligned}$$ The left hand side of this equation is either zero or a polynomial of degree equal to $ (1+m(L-1)) \deg \beta_1 $, whereas the polynomial on the right hand side can have at most degree $ m(L-1) \deg \beta_1 + \deg \beta_2 $. Since they are equal both sides must be zero. We get $ 1-d_0^m = 0 $ and rewrite the expression on the right side of as $$\begin{aligned} \left( \frac{a_2}{a_1} - m d_0^{m-1} d_1 \right) \beta_1^{m(L-1)} \beta_2 &= \left( {\begin{pmatrix} m \\ 2 \end{pmatrix}} d_0^{m-2} d_1^2 + m d_0^{m-1} d_2 \right) \beta_1^{m(L-1)-1} \beta_2^2 \\ &\hspace{0.5cm}+ \cdots + d_{L-1}^m \beta_1 \beta_2^{m(L-1)}. \end{aligned}$$ We apply the same argument as before to get $ \frac{a_2}{a_1} - m d_0^{m-1} d_1 = 0 $. Now we repeat this procedure and end up with $$\begin{aligned} 1-d_0^m &= 0 \\ \frac{a_2}{a_1} - m d_0^{m-1} d_1 &= 0 \\ {\begin{pmatrix} m \\ 2 \end{pmatrix}} d_0^{m-2} d_1^2 + m d_0^{m-1} d_2 &= 0 \\ &\vdots \\ d_{L-1}^m &= 0. \end{aligned}$$ It follows immediately that $ d_{L-1} = 0 $. Hence $ c_{L-1} = 0 $. Thus equation reduces to $$h(x) = \sum_{i=0}^{L-2} c_i t_i(x).$$ Doing the same calculations again with this new sum or putting $ d_{L-1} = 0 $ and inspect the above calculations in more detail gives now step by step $ c_{L-2} = 0, \ldots, c_1 = 0 $. So it holds that $ h(x) = c_0 t_0(x) $. Taking the $ m $-th power we get $$a_1 \alpha_1^n + a_2 \alpha_2^n = d_0^m a_1 \alpha_1^n$$ which is equivalent to $$\frac{a_2}{a_1} \alpha_2^n = (d_0^m-1) \alpha_1^n.$$ The left hand side is a polynomial of degree $ n \deg \alpha_2 $, but the right hand side is either zero or of degree $ n \deg \alpha_1 $. This is a contradiction. Therefore the linear dependent case cannot occur. Altogether we must be in the linear independent case and thus have the bound for the index $ n $. This proves the theorem. The proof of the other theorem is very similar but has some subtle differences. Hence for the readers convenience we write it down in detail. Assume that there exists an index $ n $, an integer $ m > \deg \alpha_1 $ and a polynomial $ h(x) $ such that $ G_n(x) = (h(x))^m $. Thus again we have $ h(x) = \zeta (G_n(x))^{1/m} $ for an $ m $-th root of unity $ \zeta $. Using the power sum representation of $ G_n(x) $ as well as the multinomial series expansion we get $$\begin{aligned} h(x) &= \zeta (G_n(x))^{1/m} = \zeta (a_1 \alpha_1^n + \cdots + a_d \alpha_d^n)^{1/m} \nonumber \\ &= \zeta a_1^{1/m} \alpha_1^{n/m} \left( 1 + \frac{a_2}{a_1} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^n + \cdots + \frac{a_d}{a_1} \left( \frac{\alpha_d}{\alpha_1} \right)^n \right)^{1/m} \nonumber \\ &= \zeta a_1^{1/m} \alpha_1^{n/m} \sum_{h_2,\ldots,h_d=0}^{\infty} g_{h_2,\ldots,h_d} \left( \frac{a_2}{a_1} \right)^{h_2} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_2} \cdots \left( \frac{a_d}{a_1} \right)^{h_d} \left( \frac{\alpha_d}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_d} \nonumber \\ &\label{p2-eq:gsumforh}= \sum_{h_2,\ldots,h_d=0}^{\infty} t_{h_2,\ldots,h_d}(x) \end{aligned}$$ with the definition $$\begin{aligned} t_{h_2,\ldots,h_d}(x) :&= \zeta a_1^{1/m} \alpha_1^{n/m} g_{h_2,\ldots,h_d} \left( \frac{a_2}{a_1} \right)^{h_2} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_2} \cdots \left( \frac{a_d}{a_1} \right)^{h_d} \left( \frac{\alpha_d}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_d} \\ &= b_{h_2,\ldots,h_d} \alpha_1^{n/m} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_2} \cdots \left( \frac{\alpha_d}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_d}. \end{aligned}$$ Since we have required in the theorem that $ a_1, \ldots, a_d \in {\mathbb{C}}$, it holds that $$b_{h_2,\ldots,h_d} := \zeta a_1^{1/m} g_{h_2,\ldots,h_d} \left( \frac{a_2}{a_1} \right)^{h_2} \cdots \left( \frac{a_d}{a_1} \right)^{h_d} \in {\mathbb{C}}.$$ Let now $ F = {\mathbb{C}}(x, \alpha_1(x)^{1/m}) $ and $ m_0 $ be the smallest positive integer such that $ \alpha_1(x)^{m_0/m} \in {\mathbb{C}}(x) $. Applying Proposition \[p2-prop:kummerext\] we get that $ F $ is a Kummer extension of $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ and that $ T^{m_0} - \alpha_1(x)^{m_0/m} $ is the minimal polynomial of $ \alpha_1(x)^{1/m} $ over $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $. Moreover we get that only places in $ F $ above $ \infty $ and the roots of $ \alpha_1 $ as a polynomial in $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ can ramify. Since our field of constants is $ {\mathbb{C}}$ and therefore algebraically closed, we have $ \deg P = 1 $ for all places $ P $. Combined with $ {\mathfrak{g}}_{{\mathbb{C}}(x)} = 0 $ the genus formula of Proposition \[p2-prop:kummerext\] yields $$\begin{aligned} 2{\mathfrak{g}}_F - 2 &= 2 m_0 ({\mathfrak{g}}_{{\mathbb{C}}(x)} - 1) + \sum_{P \in {\mathbb{P}}_{{\mathbb{C}}(x)}} (m_0-r_P) \deg P \\ &\leq -2 m_0 + \sum_{P \in {\mathbb{P}}_{{\mathbb{C}}(x)} : m_0 > r_P} m_0 \\ &\leq -2 m_0 + m_0 (1 + \deg \alpha_1) = m_0 (\deg \alpha_1 - 1). \end{aligned}$$ The next step is to estimate the valuation of the $ t_{h_2,\ldots,h_d} $ corresponding to the infinite place of $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $. We get the following lower bound: $$\begin{aligned} \nu_{\infty}(t_{h_2,\ldots,h_d}(x)) &= \nu_{\infty}\left( \alpha_1^{n/m} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_2} \cdots \left( \frac{\alpha_d}{\alpha_1} \right)^{nh_d} \right) \\ &= n \left( \frac{1}{m} \nu_{\infty}(\alpha_1) + \sum_{j=2}^{d} h_j (\nu_{\infty}(\alpha_j) - \nu_{\infty}(\alpha_1)) \right) \\ &= n \left( \frac{-\deg \alpha_1}{m} + \sum_{j=2}^{d} h_j (\deg \alpha_1 - \deg \alpha_j) \right) \\ &\geq n \left( \sum_{j=2}^{d} h_j - \frac{\deg \alpha_1}{m} \right) \geq n \left( \sum_{j=2}^{d} h_j - 1 \right). \end{aligned}$$ Let $ J \in {\mathbb{N}}$ be arbitrary. Therefore for $ \sum_{j=2}^{d} h_j \geq J + 1 $ we have the lower bound $ \nu_{\infty}(t_{h_2,\ldots,h_d}(x)) \geq nJ $. This allows us to split the above sum representation for $ h(x) $ in the following way: $$h(x) = t_1(x) + t_2(x) + \cdots + t_L(x) + \sum_{\nu_{\infty}(t_{h_2,\ldots,h_d}(x)) \geq nJ} t_{h_2,\ldots,h_d}(x)$$ with $ L \leq (J+1)^{d-1} $. We remark at this point that if $ J = 1 $ we can get a better bound. Let us therefore use the notation $ e_1 := (0,\ldots,0), e_2 := (1,0,\ldots,0), e_3 := (0,1,0,\ldots,0), \ldots, e_d := (0,\ldots,0,1) \in {\mathbb{N}}_0^{d-1} $. Among the $ t_1(x), \ldots, t_L(x) $ occur in this case at most some elements of $ {\left\{ t_{e_1}(x), \ldots, t_{e_d}(x) \right\}} $ and it holds $ L \leq d $. Therefore from now on we fix $ J = 1 $. We now distinguish between two cases which will be handled in completely different ways. First we assume that $ {\left\{ h(x), t_1(x), \ldots, t_L(x) \right\}} $ is linearly independent over $ {\mathbb{C}}$. Later we will consider the case that $ {\left\{ h(x), t_1(x), \ldots, t_L(x) \right\}} $ is linearly dependent over $ {\mathbb{C}}$. So let us now assume that $ {\left\{ h(x), t_1(x), \ldots, t_L(x) \right\}} $ is linearly independent over $ {\mathbb{C}}$. We aim to apply Proposition \[p2-prop:functionfieldsubspace\]. To do so let us fix a finite set $ S $ of places of $ F $ which contains all zeros and poles of $ t_1(x), \ldots, t_L(x) $ as well as all poles of $ h(x) $. Therefore $ S $ can be chosen in a way such that it contains at most the places above $ \infty $ and the zeros of $ \alpha_1, \ldots, \alpha_d $. This gives an upper bound on the number of elements in $ S $: $${\left| S \right|} \leq m_0 \left( 1 + \sum_{j=1}^{d} \deg \alpha_j \right).$$ Further we write $ \varphi_1 = -t_1(x), \ldots, \varphi_L = -t_L(x) $ and $ \varphi_{L+1} = h(x) $. We also define $ \sigma = \sum_{i=1}^{L+1} \varphi_i = \sum_{\nu_{\infty}(t_{h_2,\ldots,h_d}(x)) \geq nJ} t_{h_2,\ldots,h_d}(x) $. Since $ \deg (h(x)) = [F : {\mathbb{C}}(h(x))] = {\mathcal{H}}(h(x)) = \deg h \cdot {\mathcal{H}}(x) = \deg h \cdot [F : {\mathbb{C}}(x)] = m_0 \deg h $ Proposition \[p2-prop:functionfieldsubspace\] implies $$\begin{aligned} \sum_{\nu \in S} &\left( \nu(\sigma) - \min_{i=1, \ldots, L+1} \nu(\varphi_i) \right) \leq \\ &\leq {\begin{pmatrix} L+1 \\ 2 \end{pmatrix}} ({\left| S \right|} + 2{\mathfrak{g}}_F - 2) + \deg (h(x)) \\ &\leq \frac{1}{2} L (L+1) m_0 \left( \deg \alpha_1 + \sum_{j=1}^{d} \deg \alpha_j \right) + m_0 \deg h \\ &\leq L (L+1) m_0 \sum_{j=1}^{d} \deg \alpha_j + m_0 \deg h. \end{aligned}$$ On the other hand we have $ \nu(\sigma) \geq \min_{i=1, \ldots, L+1} \nu(\varphi_i) $ for every valuation $ \nu $ and thus the lower bound $$\begin{aligned} \sum_{\nu \in S} \left( \nu(\sigma) - \min_{i=1, \ldots, L+1} \nu(\varphi_i) \right) &\geq \sum_{P \mid \infty} \left( \nu_P(\sigma) - \min_{i=1, \ldots, L+1} \nu_P(\varphi_i) \right) \\ &\geq \sum_{P \mid \infty} \left( \nu_P(\sigma) - \nu_P(h(x)) \right) \\ &= \sum_{P \mid \infty} \nu_P(\sigma) - \sum_{P \mid \infty} e(P \mid \infty) \cdot \nu_{\infty}(h(x)) \\ &= \sum_{P \mid \infty} \nu_P(\sigma) - m_0 \nu_{\infty}(h(x)) \\ &= \sum_{P \mid \infty} e(P \mid \infty) \cdot \nu_{\infty}(\sigma) + m_0 \deg h \\ &= m_0 \nu_{\infty}(\sigma) + m_0 \deg h \\ &\geq m_0nJ + m_0 \deg h. \end{aligned}$$ Let us now compare the upper and lower bounds. Since $ m_0 \deg h $ appears on both sides, we can subtract it and get $$m_0nJ \leq L (L+1) m_0 \sum_{j=1}^{d} \deg \alpha_j.$$ Dividing by $ m_0 $ and remembering $ J = 1 $ as well as $ L \leq d $ yields $$\label{p2-eq:gboundforn} n \leq d (d+1) \sum_{j=1}^{d} \deg \alpha_j.$$ After this we consider now the case that $ {\left\{ h(x), t_1(x), \ldots, t_L(x) \right\}} $ is linearly dependent over $ {\mathbb{C}}$. We can assume that $ {\left\{ t_1(x), \ldots, t_L(x) \right\}} $ is linearly independent, since otherwise we are able to group them together and the first case is still working if the $ t_{h_2,\ldots,h_d}(x) $ have constant coefficients. This implies that in a relation of linear dependence $ h(x) $ has a nonzero coefficient. Thus there exist complex numbers $ c_i \in {\mathbb{C}}$ such that $$\label{p2-eq:generallasum} h(x) = \sum_{i=1}^{d} c_i t_{e_i}(x).$$ Here we have used the above mentioned restriction on the possible elements of $ {\left\{ t_1(x), \ldots, t_L(x) \right\}} $. During the following calculation we will use the abbreviation $ d_i = b_{e_i} c_i $. We start with equation and get $$\begin{aligned} \label{p2-eq:generallah} h(x) &= c_1 t_{e_1}(x) + \cdots + c_d t_{e_d}(x) \nonumber \\ &= d_1 \alpha_1^{n/m} + d_2 \alpha_1^{n/m} \left( \frac{\alpha_2}{\alpha_1} \right)^n + \cdots + d_d \alpha_1^{n/m} \left( \frac{\alpha_d}{\alpha_1} \right)^n. \end{aligned}$$ We see that $ h(x) $ is of the form $ \alpha_1^{n/m} \cdot R $ with an $ R \in {\mathbb{C}}(x) $. Thus $ \alpha_1^{n/m} $ must be an element of $ {\mathbb{C}}(x) $. By the definition of $ m_0 $ it follows that $ m_0 \mid n $ and therefore there exists an integer $ \ell $ such that $ n = m_0 \ell $. Moreover $ \alpha_1^{n/m} \in {\mathbb{C}}(x) $ implies $ \alpha_1^{n/m} \in {\mathbb{C}}[x] $ since $ \alpha_1 $ is a polynomial. Let us now rewrite equation as follows $$\label{p2-eq:mustbepoly} h(x) - d_1 \alpha_1^{n/m} = \frac{d_2 \alpha_1^{n/m} \alpha_2^n + \cdots + d_d \alpha_1^{n/m} \alpha_d^n}{\alpha_1^n}.$$ The left hand side of equation is a polynomial. So the right hand side must be, too. Since the denominator has degree $ n \deg \alpha_1 $ and the numerator degree at most $ \frac{n}{m} \deg \alpha_1 + n \deg \alpha_2 < n + n \deg \alpha_2 \leq n \deg \alpha_1 $, the only possibility is that both sides are zero. Hence $$a_1 \alpha_1^n + \cdots + a_d \alpha_d^n = (h(x))^m = d_1^m \alpha_1^n$$ which is equivalent to $$a_2 \alpha_2^n + \cdots + a_d \alpha_d^n = (d_1^m-a_1) \alpha_1^n.$$ The left hand side is a polynomial of degree $ n \deg \alpha_2 $, but the right hand side is either zero or of degree $ n \deg \alpha_1 $. This is a contradiction. Therefore the linear dependent case cannot occur. Altogether we must be in the linear independent case and thus have the bound for the index $ n $. Hence we only need to choose $ m > \deg \alpha_1 $ large enough such that for all $ n \leq d (d+1) \sum_{j=1}^{d} \deg \alpha_j $ the polynomial $ G_n(x) $ is not an $ m $-th power. [99]{} <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">A. Bodin</span>, Decomposition of polynomials and approximate roots, *Proc. Amer. Math. Soc.* **138** (2010), no. 6, 1989–1994. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">P. Corvaja and U. Zannier</span>, Finiteness of odd perfect powers with four nonzero binary digits, *Ann. Inst. Fourier* **63** (2013), no. 2, 715–731. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">P. Erdős</span>, On the number of terms of the square of a polynomial, Niew Arch. Wiskunde (2) [**23**]{} (1949), 63–65. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">C. Fuchs</span>, On the Diophantine equation $ G_n (x)=G_m (P(x)) $ for third order linear recurring sequences, *Port. Math. (N.S.)* **61** (2004), no. 1, 1–24. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">C. Fuchs and C. Karolus</span>, Composite polynomials in linear recurrence sequences, *Ann. Math. Blaise Pascal*, to appear. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">C. Fuchs, C. Karolus and D. Kreso</span>, Decomposable polynomials in second order linear recurrence sequences, *Manuscripta Math.* **159(3)** (2019), 321–346. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">C. Fuchs, V. Mantova and U. Zannier</span>, On fewnomials, integral points, and a toric version of Bertini’s theorem, *J. Amer. Math. Soc.* **31** (2018), no. 1, 107–134. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">C. Fuchs and A. Pethő</span>, Effective bounds for the zeros of linear recurrences in function fields, *J. Théor. nombres Bordeaux* **17** (2005), 749–766. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">C. Fuchs and A. 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Moscariello</span>, Lacunary polynomials and compositions, PhD thesis, University of Pisa, 2019. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">A. Pethő and S. Tengely</span>, On composite rational functions, Number theory, analysis, and combinatorics, 241–259, De Gruyter Proc. Math., De Gruyter, Berlin, 2014. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">J. Rickards</span>, When is a polynomial a composition of other polynomials?, *Amer. Math. Monthly* **118** (2011), no. 4, 358–363. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">A. Schinzel</span>, On the number of terms of a power of a polynomial, *Acta Arith.* **49** (1987), 55–70. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">A. Schinzel</span>, Polynomials with special regard to reducibility. With an appendix by Umberto Zannier, Encyclopedia of Mathematics and its Applications, 77. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 2000. <span style="font-variant:small-caps;">H. 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mini_pile
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Veterinarians recommend desexing for a variety of reasons. Firstly, it prevents unwanted litters of puppies and kittens. In females, the spey procedure removes the reproductive organs (most commonly the ovaries and uterus) and immediately stops hormonal cycles with the associated bleeding in bitches, and risk of pregnancy. Castration of males can help prevent wandering tendencies (often in search of females) as well as some territorial behaviours in cats such as urine marking and fighting. The latter can lead to many an unplanned vet visit due to injuries which can in themselves require surgery and extensive treatment to resolve. There is also a risk that fighting, and mating behaviour can transmit diseases, such as Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) in cats (to which there is currently no cure). Medical Benefits of Desexing There are also significant medical reasons for desexing, both in terms of prevention and cure. Speying reduces the risk of mammary tumours (which can be cancerous like in people) as well as tumours of the ovaries, uterus and cervix. It also prevents a uterine infection known as a pyometra, which is common in mature bitches and without a quick diagnosis and treatment, is often fatal. Desexing can also be used as a treatment for a variety of conditions, these include pyometra in queens and bitches, and prostatic hypertrophy in dogs.
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Skip to main content 1. PCMag Australia 2. Reviews 3. Consumer Electronics Which Amazon Kindle Is Right for You? Kindle Which Amazon Kindle Is Right for You? Which Amazon Kindle should you buy? Whether you're new to ereaders in general or are looking to upgrade, we have the details on what each Kindle brings to the table. Which Amazon Kindle Is Right for You? If you're a book lover who wants to give your library a high-tech upgrade, the Amazon Kindle is an obvious choice. With three versions of the ebook reader, not to mention its Fire tablets, Amazon's lineup has something for everyone, but which one is best for you? Maybe you're not yet sure you want a Kindle at all. Ebook sales have been steadily dropping as more and more readers return to physical books. There's an inherent pleasure in holding a print book in your hand, and even some research that suggests they help you better absorb the content than an ebook. But if you travel frequently or commute on public transportation, you can pack hundreds of titles and even an entire bookstore in a gadget that's smaller than a paperback and weighs less than a hardcover. Backlit ereaders also eliminate the frustrations of low-light situations that can render print books unreadable without a bulky book light. Whether you're new to Kindles and ereaders in general or have long been a tech-savvy reader and are looking to upgrade, we have the details on what each Kindle brings to the table. Check them out below. The Kindle is Amazon's base ereader model. It finally has a front light but no cellular option means you'll have to download books via Wi-Fi. The base $89.99 model comes "With Special Offers," meaning ads will appear as your device's screensaver. To get rid of those ads, you'll have to pay $20 more. But for those who want an easy way to read ebooks, the Kindle is a thin, light, and affordable option. Why you should buy: You want the convenience of an ereader at a low price. Kindle Paperwhite For $50 more than the Kindle, you get better readability with the 8GB Kindle Paperwhite. There's built-in lighting that you can adjust and a higher-resolution display (300ppi vs. 167ppi). And it's waterproof. There's also a 32GB model for $30 more. For those who want Amazon's bookstore at their disposal wherever they are, the free cellular connectivity version of the 32GB Paperwhite is $249.99. Why you should buy one: The extra bells and whistles make the Paperwhite well worth the price; it's a PCMag Editors' Choice. About the Author
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Solidarity in Egypt A story to improve your opinion of humanity: It’s one to file with the Billings, MT menorah story under “Sometimes, People Are Pretty Good.” 1. #1 laursaurus January 8, 2011 Thank you for posting this gem. Most of Scienceblogs is fiercely hostile to religion with disturbingly regular use of hate speech. Not only is their hope for humanity, but maybe their is hope for this site. I doubt a group of atheists could demonstrate a similar gesture of solidarity, especially with Christianity. I shudder to imagine the backlash of criticism from fellow non-believers such a gesture of goodwill would evoke upon the participants. Accomodationists are a uniquely atheistic phenomenon. When religious followers demonstrate unconditional love and support, they are venerated as saints. The exact opposite happens to the atheist who dares to demonstrate the slightest gesture of mutual respect for their fellow man’s right to religious expression. So far, though, nobody has criticized you for posting this event. Maybe there is hope for universal tolerance and respect amongst atheists after all? 2. #2 speedwell January 9, 2011 The Islamic majority did this for the Coptic minority, laursaurus. I hate to break it to you, but the equivalent scenario would be for the Christian majority to show tolerance toward and solidarity with the atheist minority. In other words, your comment is just another example of the “oh, pity the poor persecuted majority” nonsense that we’ve been hearing every time we get a little uppity or we have the bad manners to wish someone “Happy Holidays.” 3. #3 Sili January 9, 2011 How kind of you. Happy New Year. 4. #4 MacTurk January 10, 2011 The fact that a large number of Egyptian Muslims, including imams, came out onto the streets to make the point that the loons do not speak or act for them, makes the point that Islam is not the monolithic terrorist/jihadist jugernaut envisioned by Frank Gaffney et al. Chances of this getting ANY coverage by Faux News and their ilk? Less than zero, because it does not fit their hate and fear-filled narrative. Chances of this receiving wide coverage in the American media generally? Close to zero. Why do I say this? Experience. The Luxor massacre, on November 17th, 1997, was covered exhaustively in the Western media. Justly so, as a total of 62 people were killed and some 24 wounded. Four Egyptians were killed, three police officers and a tour guide. A total of 58 foreign tourists were killed: 36 Swiss, ten Japanese, six British, four Germans and two Colombians. Twelve Swiss, two Germans, one French, and nine Egyptians were among the wounded. Later that week, a mass demonstration was held by the local people to make the point that they were NOT supporting this savagery. Within Egypt, there were many demonstrations and calls from major political and religious figures for the violence to cease. The result was a ceasefie declaration by the Al-Gama’a al-Islamiyya, an Islamist group which claimed the attack. Coverage in the Western media? Basically, none. No blood, no rich foreigners in danger, so not news.
dclm_baseline
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unit Horse.Proc; {$IF DEFINED(FPC)} {$MODE DELPHI}{$H+} {$ENDIF} interface {$IF NOT DEFINED(FPC)} uses System.SysUtils; {$ENDIF} type TNextProc = {$IF DEFINED(FPC)}procedure of object{$ELSE}System.SysUtils.TProc{$ENDIF}; TProc = {$IF DEFINED(FPC)}procedure{$ELSE}System.SysUtils.TProc{$ENDIF}; {$IF DEFINED(FPC)} TProc<T> = procedure(Arg1: T); {$ENDIF} implementation end.
common_corpus
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Thomas Sowell THE media seem to be doing a major part of the terrorists' work for them. What is the point of terrorism, after all? To get the most bang for the buck from the limited resources at the terrorists' disposal. That means scaring as many people as possible from whatever actual damage you can do. The September 11th terrorist attacks were the exception, rather than the rule, in creating huge damage. Usually, it is a question of getting as much mileage as possible from actions that directly harm a relatively few people, but put fear into the hearts of millions and spread confusion that disrupts a whole society. The media handling of the anthrax attacks was all that the terrorists could hope for. The fourth person to die from anthrax produced front-page banner headlines. Tragic as the death of anyone may be, when you are in a war you do not headline the deaths of four people. More people than that can get wiped out with one burst of machine-gun fire. More people than that died in Andrea Yates' bathtub. It is obvious that the people to whom the anthrax-laden envelopes were sent were chosen because their deaths would be big news. What the terrorists seem not to have realized was that anyone that prominent was likely to have someone else opening his mail. The ideal, from the terrorists' standpoint, would be to get more publicity and more fear-mongering without having to actually do anything. This too was accomplished for them by big media coverage of potential attacks and highly publicized speculations as to what might happen next. Government officials have not been wholly blameless in issuing public announcements of "credible threats" of a wholly unspecified nature. What are you supposed to do when you hear such ominous but unknown threats? Stay home from work? And how do you know that the terrorists are more likely to strike where you work than where you live? Such warnings seem less likely to protect the public than to protect government officials from criticisms that they didn't warn us. The media not only help our enemies at home, but overseas as well. Military operations had barely gotten underway in Afghanistan before American reporters were seeking out every case of collateral damage on civilians from our bombing raids -- and were reporting the Taliban's claims as if they were facts. Does anyone know of any war where there were not innocent civilians killed? That is one of many things that makes war so hideous. But you don't get out of a war by pretending that you are not in it. The terrorists put us at war on September 11th. We could bury our heads in the sand and do nothing, but that would not stop them -- and others -- from inflicting more of the same on us. Our only hope of deterring more such attacks is by killing those responsible and letting others know that it is going to cost them dearly if they try anything like it. There seems to be some hand-wringing among some in the media about whether they can be patriotic Americans and at the same time report the news objectively. But the truth is the truth, regardless of whose side you are on. Sometimes it is hard to know the truth, but you don't get around that by reporting every claim by an enemy regime with a long history of lying -- and then pretending to believe that it is just as credible as what you have learned from more reliable sources. Much of the media has a confusion between being objective and creating an arbitrary "balance" between "the two sides." Objectivity is about facts. Medical science can be objective about the facts about a disease without being neutral as between the bacteria and the patient. Medical researchers' objectivity about the facts is what enables them to discover how to save the patient's life and kill the bacteria. News-gathering does not have to stop during a war. But news is what has actually happened. Rumors and speculation are not news. Nor are American military plans news. Reporting these plans and jeopardizing Americans' lives is espionage. Thomas Sowell Creators Syndicate
dclm_baseline
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Friday, April 26, 2019 Using Git hooks to alter commit messages As developers we try to get the repetitive boring stuff out of our ways. Hence we try to use tools that automate some of our workflows, or if no tools is available for our specific needs, no problem, we automate them ourselves, we're developers after all! In one of the projects I worked on, there was a convention to add the task id as part of each commit message because some tools are used to generate reports based on it. I'm not sure why this was required in that situation, but I had to follow the convention anyway. Since I tend to make many small commits every day, I was sure I'll forget to add the task id most of the time. So I started investigating Git hooks. Git provides many hooks that could be used to automate some of the repetitive behaviors that are required to happen with the different life cycle steps of Git usage. For example:     • Pre-commit     • Pre-push     • Prepate-commit-message     • Commit-message The folder ".git/hooks" within the git repository folder contains many sample commit hook files which are good starting points. The one of interest in this case was the commit-msg hook. In my scenario, we had a convention to name our branches using the patterns "feature/" or "bug/". So I decided to deduce the task id from the branch name and prepend it to the commit message. I created a file with the name commit-msg in the .git/hooks folder, the code inside this file is similar to: message=$(cat $1) branch=$(git branch | grep \* | cut -d ' ' -f2-) task=$(echo $branch | cut -d / -f2-) echo "$task - $message" > $1 • Line 2: reads the original commit message from the temp file, whose name is passed as the first parameter to the script. • Line 3: reads the current branch name. Thanks to StackOverflow. • Line 4: extracts the task id from the branch name by splitting the string by the "/" character and taking the second part. • Line 5: overwrites the commit message with the required format. Now when I commit code using: git commit -m"test message" And then inspect the logs using git log command, the commit message is modified as needed: commit f1fe8918c754ca89649a2a86ef4ab0a9a53c0496 (HEAD -> feature/1234) Author: Hesham A. Amin Date: Fri Apr 26 08:24:40 2019 +0200 1234 - test message commit 4e3e180d3a27772a32230bf6dbbd039b949dc30e Investing few minutes to automate daunting repetitive tasks pays off on the long term.
dclm_baseline
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Woman throws out Apple-1 worth $200K A Silicon Valley-based recycling company is looking for a "mysterious lady" who dropped off a rare vintage Apple computer, so it can give her $100,000. About a month ago, a woman of between 60-70 years of age dropped off a couple of boxes of waste containing electronic junk to CleanBayArea's recycling center in Milpitas, CA. Or so she thought. Actually, the box contained one of only 200 original Apple-1 computers built by Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak and Ron Wayne, NBC Bay Area reported. CleanBayArea sold the piece of technology history in a private auction for $200,000 and is now looking for the woman to give her 50 percent of the proceeds. The Apple-1 computers were produced in 1976 and sold for $666.66 at the time. A CleanBayArea recycling manager was sorting through the boxes that had been dropped off by the anonymous woman when he came across the machine. The woman said her husband had passed away and that she decided to clean up the garage. "We couldn't believe our eyes, we thought it was fake. It was real," Victor Gichun, CleanBayArea's vice president told NBC Bay Area. Last year, an Apple-1 computer fetched $905,000 at an auction at Bonhams in New York -- the highest price such a device has sold for. So anonymous woman, if you're reading this, you could be about to get rich.
dclm_baseline
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Bukid ang Čarović sa Krowatiya. Nahimutang ni sa lalawigan sa Dubrovačko-Neretvanska Županija, sa habagatan-sidlakang bahin sa nasod, km sa habagatan sa Zagreb ang ulohan sa nasod. metros ibabaw sa dagat kahaboga ang nahimutangan sa Čarović, o ka metros sa ibabaw sa naglibot nga tereyn. Mga ka kilometro ang gilapdon sa tiilan niini. Ang yuta palibot sa Čarović medyo bungtoron. Sa habagatang-kasadpan, dagat ang pinakaduol sa Čarović. Ang kinahabogang dapit sa palibot dunay gihabogon nga ka metro ug km sa amihanan-sidlakan sa Čarović. Dunay mga ka tawo kada kilometro kwadrado sa palibot sa Čarović medyo gamay nga populasyon. Ang kinadul-ang mas dakong lungsod mao ang Blato, km sa habagatan sa Čarović. Hapit nalukop sa lasang nga sagolsagol ang palibot sa Čarović. Sa rehiyon palibot sa Čarović, mga luuk, ug mga bungtod talagsaon komon. Ang klima kasarangan. Ang kasarangang giiniton °C. Ang kinainitan nga bulan Hulyo, sa  °C, ug ang kinabugnawan Enero, sa  °C. Ang kasarangang pag-ulan milimetro matag tuig. Ang kinabasaan nga bulan Pebrero, sa milimetro nga ulan, ug ang kinaugahan Hulyo, sa milimetro. Saysay Ang mga gi basihan niini Kabukiran sa Dubrovačko-Neretvanska Županija Kabukiran sa Krowatiya nga mas taas kay sa 500 metros ibabaw sa dagat nga lebel
common_corpus
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Z»ASstratzen osn Sallw ««de» Deqqn«k»l«me» mö SeleMaa unkr Malchi«»gewehrfe»er s«om«en. In den Suftkämpfen » uvöea S feindl" feindliche Apparate abgeschssf«». Italienischer Krieasbevtcht vom 1. Juni. l I Ib»i«s«> ..... ..... ..... IMoifen undsüuffeindliche Flugzeugewürden in LuftttmpDn abgeschossen, ein fechtes, das »oa dem Feuer unseres AMlers« zelttffea «ttd^ ' link» Piav^Nfer hßrun^gehott.^ „. ^ . . . . ^ 5- KalW in MMrtnng unserer Offensive. Der wiegskorrespondenßch«LA^eol»*? meldet^ »an ^der italienisch« Fro^k.) daß kei» Koaifelmehr darSSer Haltes daß dls Lfterreichtsch» ig«isch» Offensive jede«A»genb!ick besinnen werds. Wo sie 'einsetzen werde, sei ungewiß, aber die vordereit»»»z«a desFeindk» seien ge««Uiz»»m -tiljs«jochd^.zum -Meer?. Gleichzeitig unterhallv der Feind. eke^a«^hehnt»^«tzrättsch» Pcopag«nda im i»n«e» Bande, u« desft« Md«rstandk»«U u schroiichev^Umso öri»gs».5er sei daher hier »»rzubeugsn, dämNdie ganiNiRalwn wls «in Mann Hintes den» kämpfendes Leere psh». ItaKm Ufe sich ävch seiner T»uschü«g hinzedm, datz es den kommende» »n>»iff mit eiqene» LrHst.ausfeMen^ müsse und-auf fich^ akkiy angM^an sai. E» '«ftge iaber üde»' »i« avsg^eich«etts He« und seit dam Dezember »»rigen Iahressei'es diesem Heer« gelungen» «in gewaMs» und " - ^ - ; ' - > I NSUMNWÄKWN^ KW z-F ^; lif' -ich' HA. ° k ? 5'i ! !s ^ ! i!j! W KL M . Li? I M .Vozner, Zeitung". (Südiirolei Tagblott^ D»enst^q, den 4. N K Fi A ' A MztUt« »nsm§- »it Wschw. ' . ' "^'Wien, 3.' Iüni. K.-B...Der k: u. ?>-Minister MsAKßAMSraf'Burian wild fich am«10.°.d. Bei ^ielem MlM»^ln^ewgehsnder WMMHSMÄ« ZW'KSWKM^MM^r QueLmzuflnfl» nicht htnr«ich^n,"um?dmrevlmtKi- »on Gottes Suaden, wohl.einer der besten.^«MO äea Bedarf reichlich !« decken^'di»/srSßt» Sparsam- j« W Boz»n zu hieen bekam«» und de,noH seine» . . ^ »»»» ...I„ l..» ^ ^ t ^ < >« «en WMEZZDWWN^M'd^g^ weder in Veker >k«tt walten zu.lassen. Wis .»ir. hSr«n, hat dsrVer- ! waltungsrat vor einigen Tagen den B>-schIuß ge> faß», für ten Fall, als die Aufforderung »ur «p«. samkelt' im Wafferverbrauche' nicht allgemein befolgt uj«»den^s»llt^ d»rH^«ini ergiebige Echöhung des WaWpreiM der «üfforLerüng eytfprechendm druck zu geb«n. Ei» Fr6»KV«lekee w »szen. Da« Kriegs^ preNequartierZläßS! im Einvernrhmet: mit unserem Kri-sHsürsorgeamt am 7..»^I0.^ds'. B im«ozner Stadttheater^itn''aus erfiksaffisen Kunst- und V»? risi^krLsten bestehendes Fröätvariete« unter der Lei- Zuna Direktov Richard Nadkag^s auftreten. Mit^ R»p?rtoirsRudoM.Sportspielk(Apollochsa!erWien) Olgü D-ssya- XMetröpoltyeaier Berlins Phantasie-. >-tanse»!n.: l lRichard. Nagrad'e (Apollotheater Wien) mit^seinenI.ClownS > At-guMvnd Nazi^— Gräfin Änä^ReMgl^Op-r Budapest) Nobert-Binder.^ Ew KAnfi»«KonzAeß kim »,ll«n LSin« de» Wort?» wB es, Ks» ün»'gkKecn:in^derMandelhalls Wsg in der Welt niachsn a^ird, denn asch ex kW noch jung und darf sich heute schon- mit zw de» besten zShien. Er ge^t» nicht mit seine» Kuvft uns bot zum Danke für den nicht enden.mollendenkDhß» fall Arien aus „Toska" und ^Bohsme". welH» en gleich ßinreißendjum Borträge bxachte, wie die Num« meen des ProgrsMme». Und Alexander Myon>de» feinsinnige Pianist, war gestern als Solist^mit Myt Ehopinschen und oiner eigenen Komposition? gemein^ sam mit k>5yd2ßksmttsch r«d al» Seglsiker der Likd«« Tzch-l-NZ gleich vsczüglich. E« waren hohe Kunst» genüffe, die^ un« gestern geboten, wurden; da» P», bliku« «ar entzückt und Hinzeriffen und^ wurd» nicht müd-, d»n ; K»nstl«r« immer wieder reichen nicht en- den wollenden Beifall zu spenden. Dame» und Kerre« d« T»sellschM haben Gelegekhsit pÄriotifch M wirken; 6- h. KrkegSauleihe km Wege der ÄriegSanteih -Bcrstche» -rüng. zu. werben. Aeußerst qilnstig. HallptgvschilstZ» stelle des Anker, Graz, Raubocgaff« 2V. Aus das heuikg! und morgkge Sastipi-l Gelk» v<m. Wagner, oes» Deutschen Vol?°>th«ate?^ A We» in'^Bll»nsüchs,> üi:» «SajPhs^ wird noH>«^hiir» gepiesxn. Donnerstag» oen 6. wkd> LeyAZelG. Ks-' mödik: „Die Tänzerin" ausA.skhlt^'Der.Ab«di.W» wiant^dadurG an, Interesse,, adt'in'dsr Rolle de» „t^zk»" ein'Lances M»j'n»r Schäüspkeler, Z»M Ks:I Fritz Maseru zmy> e^ß«MM!s in..sei»er BaterstM' ausKitt.—Zerv»M-^era,^.e?>.bsreits a» ekIzen Bühr - , nen Oesterreich» uni> Nnaarns dt» Aiuerpzobk b»' Wb^ ha^LnzM ^wH auch. bali> unter, feines .Landsleuten eine große^Ver»hr«Mar finde». Avi' Freitag Mi«t einTastspie^ des From-Varketae statt, däS->rst:BH'»tee>9rätt<aukjuraei^hat. Samstaz» findet ein dritter Tud«rmann--Zlhen5 statt u»t» g«» langt" da? vleraktig?^ Schauhzkekx .,Die Schmstter' llnMschkacht^ .M Iir der »olle- de» 'R«tsende«-. »Ä-Aki.?.' gest!>-rt."Hi«r Emil Rubet »«« > Stadtchcaker w Brinn. Karten für alle.Aqrgenann ten.ÄÜMHrungen jind. Kreits. an ^ der.Ta^skaM erhäitl ch. ZN5. 123 :SSvÄrÄc Tsff Dienstag, de» 4. Juni 13^?. ^Direktion: Leo Böwaez^-?,^ Gapspiet ^ri!a v. Wagner vom Deutschen Boltttheater Wien Dienstag, den 4. Juni 1S18. ' ^ j-s M- L. . MMMchs^ Komddie in 3 Akten von Franz Äercz^ Ilona — Eri?a d. Wagner als G. Mittwoch, den 3. Juni 13,8. ZahpHo. Trauerspiel in S AuMgen von Fran^ Grillparzer Sappho Erika v. Wagner htckb 8 Uhr. Anfang L Uhr. Ende halb II Ihr. WWNWVNß . WDDstAW^UWWMKWWUWRKW Sreihig. grob und schön. Z Stücks...^-.-, r ^ ^ W Kronen. ftmcko -jeder Station. M Die Tageskassa ist täglich geöffnet von halb 11 btz 1 Uhr und von 4 bis 6 Ahr. N! 8 Millionen !!! Massenbedarfs- und Konsumartikel Ar DgÄMllen, Papier ü. Buch handlungen, Kaufleütt aller ÄK etc. inMürsÜn^genSgsndMrzeÄMertÄ ll?^ Prima Schuhcreme. 1 Probepostkollo mit 70 Stiick X ItS.— 1 Postkollo mil140 Stück X 200.— Geo WaschpulvN, .. behirdlichjbewMat, zm.Wassex .lösbar, für Wäsche absolK imfchSdltth' saWketk k'äölinfrei. - ' -' 70 Päckchen a zirka 125 Gramm X 19.S0 Efestn Trockentmte, S?°/o billiger wie andere Tinten. , lovSäcken, genügend f. K il/,« l schwarze Kanzleitinte 10 X Säckchen sstr, je 1/« ? l schwarze Kopiertinte. X 6.2S 1 ' ^Söckchen ^ze 1/i» l rote Metalmiite X 5.— MigM WWblaDMer i Karton mit Ivo Säckchen ' Ä.— 10M Söckchen X180.— MtMsse HänSarbeiMroHen zpit Edelstein-Smitation. Künstlerische Äussühiuna, S fach jodiert. 1 Dutzend X 1LI— ' . . 1 Grvbx K 16S.— Mlronen-Taiiletteu, einziger/ wirklicher Ersah für Zitronen: ' Z0 Kartons a SS St: 1^22.— e>p.- Kaufleute Sonder- ts'cheber, Graz.Schieß! tattgasseNr. 18. Engios-E'.zeugung von I Ä.S IlRs! der Gesundheit unschädlich, beson-! derer arom. Geruch, offeriert 100 St. S. S.—, 300 Et. K 13.— bvv St. « 20.-, IstvoSt. K SS.— Josef S»uk^p, Driqec bei Kladno/Bvhmen.»^ Panorimaspiel zum Auspalt» I0-erlei Spiel» f»b«iprSchiIge Aiwstattiing 1 Diz» bl« I4S »Z>« Kamps um Verdim' SochhxniiMld« Unkrhallimssspitl str JwU und Alt mit S «ldam Spillen »«riwl inU. Schachstgirni ui» S«tzstltn«. Ar«»» < — pr. St. .» SS.— pr. Sytjd. ^ WetaÜii^ SN>lSbiftsb«ch«a giis L EÄlAki- tmLatixli. " ^ S »Äs«.» - ,W's««iö»e?kte>qcyNeii v»»«o«v > MKV«MMMWL Ks' dMMM ^ 4o^—"Wn Voreinsendung ^ ^ '^7" orer Nachnahm», zu haben bel Franz. Burtscher, Reutti °'1 Mlcheü- uO Ä Mauchtt/ÄgMWMM _ g«.,>ine'' «unstwi^ ZS «. . Qknk.?..- . <. jV...p«'Rach«ch»e s^eiftui «« is I SlkdtkttU^ ^in^ufsstDlie. ^ien. ll^ Ar«»» se»>e. ei» a»f >rr SIreckr «emtttg -^Oiril' eO ztlanseisM» »ert srmlliert «it /iintlichea «ir ll ei i« Nimuttw erte »o » K S IS. <ei Ä«zi»e Vieatr'A>«jsr dlre»t7z»- «trelsiöct »-Krtne« >11.- >kr?Lri«^ . M«! >e»tliche-ÄreffeI»iÄ^iÄ Uru.>- Sut« Slmzat, «kklieimter, <M- ^ ,! .dsrZj HAmässjla. P. - L Z 15 ^ ^ 10 a 50 St. «c-40:- Müörämäspiele Zu > lortierte Spiele 1 Grötz,-10 fach sortiert; X-13S.80 Schachs Dame-, Mühle-, WM- u. FestunZskrieg vereinigt Komplett mit Schachfigürm und Setzsteinen ' ' . v... ^ ' pro Groß X SSV.— SAchüüliche Preise freibleibend, ab Wien excl. Verpackung. Bei' Vv^ >- auskassll'fränko.Jönp-Aachnahme.^ 7 . ^ Wi Eu-gM Slbnahcke i t' DM BgHMM M, - i-L iz«,»W >>1 '>Ä ^ -HM ' des^Ugl ^sÄdesiens! vr FlesSi'z vrig. 'g«. ' humö.isii jche Wochenschrift Ittels teljähr. /t 6.—.- MMt Probeheft' aüf WünM, gratis^ . ÄobMMg. , ^i-n.IX^KdMWeö^ i- - A-SißM^MSZ ?ilr ^.. . - iWÄAGWWMM Zpatterie ' >7d,ü'ch^' unä "seyaet Muster uöä ' ^relzAss^ ^ I ?? ÄMKZMSPWKMMKW! z»Ämlsbxü6lDuMriid«n ,», .U ZM .MM SUN »MN«W ^ D«wi»ä«Ke SS (bei »er R«db«A») Z:,' - V« MIIM gMIls^r«qM ^ien^Z^itsk^k^AMZMH^ kÄirU «üäerllsr Litromödel a»s AM o. W»». Zü? kÄMMMLNsH ? >k SmÄ^Wä KÄW«MV«M »lölölL U ^ '.v- '^.Z ^ f»5 V,.. 'N? Kff'' ..F' UÄ»^l' . r' > ^«eilsÄe.
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Always kind of wondered why my hot coffee that I let cool to room temperature and pour over ice doesn't have the same kind of flavor as the iced coffee I buy during the warmer months of the year. Since the weather is taking a turn for the warmer and it will soon be baking and pushing triple digits near my parts, I couldn't have been more pleased to discover that it is because ice coffee is apparently properly made by cold brewing it. 1) Combine ~4-5:1 water to coarsely ground coffee and stir to mix2) Let sit 10+ hours (or overnight) in the fridge or just on the counter if you don't have room.`3) Pour over a filter into your glass in the morning, with some ice and whatever else you like. You could use just a coffee filter, but something with larger pours is preferable so you don't lose all of the oils. I just use a metal strainer, but do end up with a small amount of grounds in my glass. If you have a french press, that is the most elegant way to do all of this. You can store this stuff in a pitcher for several days. Definitely gives that the taste that distinguished a properly brewed iced coffee from the hot variety, although mine seems a little weak on taste (might just be my coffee, which wasn't a great selection and I preground a month ago). I did read that this stuff supposedly is more concentrated than the hot brewed stuff, so be aware of that. If you want to use ice, the other tip I picked up (and this is obvious) is to free coffee to make the ice so it doesn't get watered down. edit: this stuff is definitely strong. I had my usual amount this morning (prob ~14 oz) and I'm definitely feeling it. I almost never feel the caffeine unless I drink a whole pot. I know more about pizza than you. Much more in fact. - Cerebral_DownTime
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When it comes to beginning investing, one of the most common pieces of advice is to start with a mutual fund. But what is a mutual fund? The novice investor can benefit from these products, but it’s important to have a solid understanding of what mutual funds are before you get started. Mutual Fund Basics A mutual fund is an investment product that purchases shares of various securities. Basically, a  mutual fund is a collection of other investments. When you buy shares of a mutual fund, you are essentially investing in everything that the mutual fund is investing in. Before you choose a mutual fund, it’s important to understand what the fund invests in so that you are certain that it’s a fund you want to hold. What is a Mutual Fund?One of the reasons that mutual funds are attractive is due to the fact that it’s relatively easy to diversify your holdings with the purchase of mutual fund shares. You have instant exposure to a number of investments all at once. Mutual funds make it easy to diversify when you have a limited budget. It’s possible to use dollar-cost averaging to purchase partial shares of mutual funds regularly, building up your portfolio over time. Additionally, a mutual fund reduces the need for stock picking or bond picking on your own, since someone else is in charge of assembling the investments that go into a mutual fund. What is a Mutual Fund: Fees Another consideration with mutual funds is the fees that are charged. Because someone has to assemble the fund and maintain it, there are fees associated with a mutual fund. There are two main types of mutual funds when it comes to management and fees: • Actively managed mutual funds: An actively managed mutual fund is one that features a manager who makes decisions about what investments will best help the fund reach its goals. If the fund focuses on energy investments, the fund manager includes different companies related to the energy sector. If the fund is meant to provide growth, the manager includes investments that s/he feels will grow quickly. An actively managed fund often comes with yearly expense fees of between 1.5% and 4% of your investment amount. Additionally, you might be charged an additional fee up front when you buy shares (or even when you sell shares), called a load. • Index funds: On the other hand are index funds. An index fund is a type of mutual fund that simply follows the performance of a specific index. It might invest in all of the stocks on the Russell 2000, or it might be an all-market index fund, investing in every publicly traded company. There are also bond index funds that track bond indexes. These funds often come with lower fees. There are no load fees, and you often end up paying expense ratios of less than 1%. Choosing a mutual fund can be one way to start investing. It’s fairly easy to understand mutual funds, especially index funds. Once you begin investing in a mutual fund, you can set it on automatic while you research investment information and learn what will help you make better decisions down the road.
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Rep. Chris Collins’ one-time future daughter-in-law and her mother have both finalized settlements over securities violation charges brought by the Securities and Exchange Commission, federal regulators announced Thursday. Without admitting or denying any of the charges, Lauren and Dorothy Zarsky settled charges they sold shares in an Australian drug company after Collins alerted his son about the failure of a drug trial. Federal authorities allege that the congressman’s son, Cameron Collins, then alerted his then-girlfriend, and eventual fiancee, and her family to the drug sale bust, according to authorities. To view this content, please continue to their sites. Not a Lexis Advance® Subscriber? Subscribe Now Not a Bloomberg Law Subscriber? Subscribe Now Why am I seeing this?
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Bitcoin is a form of virtual currency that is stored in a digital wallet on either your mobile device or computer. The cryptocurrency was launched in 2009 and uses peer-to-peer networks to send and receive funds. Over the years bitcoin has offered an “anonymous” way to make and receive payments online, eliminating the need for intermediaries like banks or credit card companies that charge significant fees. This convenience led to the rise in popularity of Bitcoin, peaking at over $20,000 per coin in 2017. Quite remarkable for a coin you would need many of just to buy a pizza a few years prior. This popularity further fueled the emergence of uncountable other coins, the main ones being Ethereum, Ripple, Litecoin and Bitcoin cash. 4 Reasons why Africans are becoming interested in Bitcoin It is Safe, Anonymous and secure  Bitcoin is a decentralized currency that is not owned by any institution or government. Through it, a user can make safe and secure transactions online without leaving personal details associated with other forms of payments.  This is particularly popular with Africans because of the limited banking penetration and credit/debit card availability. Bitcoin can be purchased using local payment systems like mobile money Mpesa in Kenya and Tanzania. There is also an increasing availability of physical Bitcoin ATM machines on the continent, making it convenient to purchase it in cash. Africa also happens to be ignored by many online transaction companies, with the continent-based credit cards being regularly rejected. A good example of this is the Playstation store which doesn’t accept accounts or payments from most African countries. Bitcoin presents an effective alternative in such instances, since individuals can trade vouchers with each other online easily. When it comes to safety, Bitcoin is arguably a lot secure than your credit card money. There are literally millions of card details stolen every year and sold on the dark web. Getting a hold on Bitcoin however is a whole different story. With a wallet like the Luno Bitcoin Wallet, it is impossible for a thief to remotely access your coins. The Luno wallet comes as a mobile app for both Android and iOS, and has robust recovery options even if you lost your phone. Lucrative Returns Bitcoin has been termed as the “money of the future.” The promise of future businesses using bitcoin is a useful tool that will see the coin appreciate in value.  The last few decades have seen Africa graduate from being “the dark continent” into a multi-billion dollar hub for investors. Since many of the other currencies are constantly fluctuating, Bitcoin offers a safer investment for all businesses. The understanding in the tech community is that the future prospects for crypto and Bitcoin in particular is up. There might be some periods of low prices, but almost everyone agrees that this is temporary. In fact, some projections have put the future price of bitcoin at $1 million. This promise of increasing value has led many Africans to buying the coin as a form of investment. Irreversible transactions Bitcoin offers a safe method to conduct business in Africa and the world in general. As much as irreversible transactions may send chills down your spine, it is a big positive in the African context. Credit cards and other forms of payments are eligible for “chargebacks,” meaning that an individual with the intent to defraud can reverse a transaction after goods and services are delivered.  This is a scary situation to be in for any businessperson, hence the rush to use bitcoin. Cheap, instant and quick Transactions This goes back to the basics as to why Bitcoin was created in the first place. Traditionally, online transactions were handled by banks or credit card companies. They charge a percentage on every transaction, with many of them also having annual fees. On top of that, many big transactions have wait times of hours or even days. Bitcoin changed this completely. Not only are the fees almost non-existent, the transactions are instant.
dclm_baseline
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\section{Modulo Addition is Commutative} Tags: Modulo Arithmetic, Modulo Addition \begin{theorem} Modulo addition is commutative: :$\forall x, y, z \in \Z: x + y \pmod m = y + x \pmod m$ \end{theorem} \begin{proof} From the definition of modulo addition, this is also written: :$\forall m \in \Z: \forall \eqclass x m, \eqclass y m \in \Z_m: \eqclass x m +_m \eqclass y m = \eqclass y m +_m \eqclass x m$ Hence: {{begin-eqn}} {{eqn | l = \eqclass x m +_m \eqclass y m | r = \eqclass {x + y} m | c = {{Defof|Modulo Addition}} }} {{eqn | r = \eqclass {y + x} m | c = Commutative Law of Addition }} {{eqn | r = \eqclass y m +_m \eqclass x m | c = {{Defof|Modulo Addition}} }} {{end-eqn}} {{qed}} \end{proof}
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Article content continued Furries are members of a subculture who take on identities based on anthropomorphic animals, called fursonas. It may involve wearing mascot-like costumes. The attorney general’s office noted that a subset of furries do so as a “sexual fetish.” “This is a horrendous case,” Josh Shapiro, Pennsylvania’s attorney general, said in a statement released Sunday. “It is deeply disturbing to me not only as Attorney General of Pennsylvania, but as a father of young children.” Harvey informed authorities that he had told another man, David Parker, 38, about the plans to meet the 13-year-old in June, according to the Bucks County probable cause affidavit obtained by Lehigh Valley newspaper the Morning Call. Parker, who was apprehended the day after Harvey, described performing sexual acts on a victim born in 2001, according to an affidavit. Parker’s first attempts at abuse may have occurred when the boy was as young as 2 or 3, the Morning Call reported. Parker faced charges of child rape, the Pennsylvania’s attorney general office said, and counts that also included the possession of child pornography. Beginning in 2009, Parker would transport the boy to a house, where, as the victim described, men donned full-body animal costumes. The boy, now 14, noted that Fenske’s fox costume consisted of “full long sleeves and pants, a zipper in the back, paw gloves, and a fox head with pointy ears,” the Associated Press reported. Fenske told others to call him by the name “Lupine” while he was in the fox suit. The child, meanwhile, was made to dress in a Tony the Tiger outfit.
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Q: Notify DataTemplateSelector about the change I use a DataTemplateSelector for a ListView column headers template selection. ListView itself is defined in a DataTemplate and has a few tabs. So, in practice, I have the same DataTemplate (so ListView too) applied to several TabItems. This means that if I select tab {A} and set XDataTemplate on the ListView column {AColumn}, then switch the tab, lets say to tab {B}, on {B}'s ListView (that is always the same one) column {AColumn}, we will see the same XDataTemplate as they share same UI data. So I created data layer where I hold relational information about {Tab} <-> {ListView:Column} <-> {HeaderContent}. This actually reads DatatemplateSelector in order to correctly update the UI on user screen. How can I notify the DataTemplateSelector to update the current view as needed on request? Thank you. A: I found a solution to this problem and it wasn't quite as difficult as I thought. The template is applied to the ListView column's header. This is enough to vary the header's value in order to generate WPF's internal event that will execute SelectTemplate on DataTemplateSelector automatically. Here is sample code: if (MyListView != null) { foreach (GridViewColumn col in (MyListView.View as GridView).Columns) { string header = col.Header.ToString(); col.ClearValue(GridViewColumn.HeaderProperty); col.SetValue(GridViewColumn.HeaderProperty, header); } } That's it. Hope this will help someone in the future.
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Something hilarious happened during the Very Pagan Olympic Opening Ceremony Extravaganza Spectacular in Greece today: the Olympic flame went out, like, immediately after they lit it. That ain't supposed to happen. The moment is made all the funnier by the BBC announcer's narration of it in the above video. (The flame goes out at 0:22, but it's worth watching the whole clip just to see everyone, guys and girls, flitting around in flowy white dresses, like they're in a commercial for Yaz.) "A rogue gust of wind, and the flame was extinguished. [Zoom to close-up] An expression of mild panic, as she realized what had happened." This poor High Priestess is Mild Panic personified. After the flame goes out, you can see her think, for a second, "Ohmygod, maybe no one will notice," but then she remembers that, actually, everyone will notice, and just kinds of stands there, holding the empty bowl, and breathing very rigidly. Eventually, the torch was lit using fire from a back-up, sub-par flame, and Liverpool-born Greek swimming champion Spyros Gianniotis ran it through the ancient Olympic stadium on the first leg of its 70-day journey to London, over the course of which it will be carried by 8,000 people. (Bring hand sanitzer, guys.) As punishment for the flame's being extinguished, one athlete from every nation must now be sacrificed to appease the angry wind gods. [The BBC]
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We have quite a bit of history with John Rocker and his PR agent Debi Curzio, but we'll confess — and we're not sure why — we simply never thought to ask either of them about steroids. Maybe it's because we don't care about steroids all that much, or maybe it's just because asking a guy who has been retired for four years about steroids seems beyond the point. Or maybe it's just because we've always assumed half of baseball's roided anyway, and we just don't get too worked up about it. Anyway, it appears Rocker received some HGH from that lab everyone's talking about. The collective jaws of a sports public are dropped. "That was a growth hormone that was prescribed by a doctor in relation to his rotator cuff surgery in 2003, so I don't really think there is anything to the story," said Debi Curzio, Rocker's publicist. That's Curzio in this morning's New York Daily News. Doctors say that HGH isn't supposed to help with recovery from rotator cuff surgery, but that's beside the point: If Rocker has been using HGH, for whatever reason ... well, it certainly does explain a lot. More Rocker Dope [New York Daily News] Now There's A Shocker [Rumors And Rants] Our Interview With John Rocker [Deadspin] John Rocker Rocks Slowly [New York Magazine] (UPDATE: Ms. Curzio writes in with a statement: "In 2003, several doctors had recommended that my client, John Rocker, take growth hormones in an effort to continue pitching right up until he had rotator cuff surgery. Growth hormone supplements can be purchased over the counter at any vitamin store across the country, and they were recommended to help heal John Rocker's shoulder and to potentially avoid surgery. Reports by the media trying to link my client to the use of illegal substances are incorrect, and this is nothing more than another example of irresponsible journalism.")
dclm_baseline
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Image-title: The Renate Series: You Know Who and the Chambermaid VI ---- Image-date: 2013 ---- Image-media: Kolanut pigment, silver acrylic, pencil and watercolor/ Arches HP Watercolor paper ---- Image-dimensions: 22 1/2 x 18 in. Sheet; 29 1/2 x 24 x 1 1/2 in. Frame ---- Image-inventory-id: MK0061 ---- Sort: 13
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using AstroAdapt.Data; using AstroAdapt.Models; using Microsoft.EntityFrameworkCore; namespace AstroAdapt.Engine { /// <summary> /// Interface for application actions. /// </summary> public interface IAstroApp { /// <summary> /// Initialize everything. /// </summary> /// <param name="resolveFactory">Given the database path, generate the context factory.</param> /// <param name="rootPath">The root path. If not specified, app data will be used.</param> /// <param name="forceReset">True to wipe and reload database.</param> Task InitializeAsync( Func<string, IDbContextFactory<AstroContext>> resolveFactory, string? rootPath = null, bool forceReset = false); /// <summary> /// Query for components. /// </summary> /// <param name="query">The query.</param> /// <returns>The component list.</returns> Task<IEnumerable<Component>> LoadInventoryAsync( Func<IQueryable<Component>, IQueryable<Component>>? query = null); /// <summary> /// Add a new item to inventory. /// </summary> /// <param name="newComponent">The new component.</param> /// <returns>The saved component.</returns> Task<Component> AddInventoryItemAsync(Component newComponent); /// <summary> /// Update a component. /// </summary> /// <param name="componentToUpdate">The component to update.</param> /// <returns>The updated component.</returns> Task<Component> UpdateInventoryItemAsync(Component componentToUpdate); /// <summary> /// Deletes an item from inventory. /// </summary> /// <param name="id">The id to delete.</param> /// <returns>The task.</returns> Task DeleteInventoryItemAsync(Guid id); /// <summary> /// Gets the related image info for the requested items. /// </summary> /// <param name="items">List of ids to resolve.</param> /// <returns>The image data.</returns> Task<IEnumerable<ImageData>> GetImagesForItemsAsync(IEnumerable<(Guid id, ComponentTypes type)> items); /// <summary> /// Sets the default image for a type. /// </summary> /// <param name="type">The type the default is for.</param> /// <param name="data">The image contents.</param> /// <returns>A task.</returns> Task SetDefaultImageAsync(ComponentTypes type, byte[] data); /// <summary> /// Sets the image for specific component. /// </summary> /// <param name="id">The id of the component the image is for.</param> /// <param name="filename">The filename.</param> /// <param name="data">The image contents.</param> /// <returns>A task.</returns> Task SetImageAsync(Guid id, string filename, byte[] data); /// <summary> /// Query for solutions. /// </summary> /// <param name="query">The query.</param> /// <returns>The solution list.</returns> Task<IEnumerable<SavedSolution>> LoadSolutionsAsync( Func<IQueryable<SavedSolution>, IQueryable<SavedSolution>>? query = null); /// <summary> /// Load a single solution. /// </summary> /// <param name="id">The solution id.</param> /// <returns>The solution.</returns> Task<SavedSolution?> LoadSolutionAsync(Guid id); /// <summary> /// Delete a single solution. /// </summary> /// <param name="id">The solution id.</param> /// <returns>The task.</returns> Task DeleteSolutionAsync(Guid id); /// <summary> /// Captures a snapshot of a solution and saves it. /// </summary> /// <param name="solution">The solution to save.</param> /// <param name="description">Description of the solution.</param> /// <returns>The <see cref="SavedSolution"/>.</returns> Task<SavedSolution> SaveSolutionAsync( Solution solution, string? description = null); /// <summary> /// Requests a solution using guids. /// </summary> /// <param name="target">The target lens to solve.</param> /// <param name="sensor">The sesnor to solve.</param> /// <param name="adapters">The available adapters.</param> /// <param name="backFocusTolerance">The back focus tolerance.</param> /// <param name="statsCallback">Receive pure stat updates.</param> /// <param name="solutionUpdate">Receive solution progress updates.</param> /// <param name="workerCount">null for auto, 0 for synchronous, anything else will asynchronously run the work count passed.</param> /// <param name="correlationId"></param> /// <returns>The final solution list.</returns> Task<IEnumerable<Solution>> SolveImageTrainAsync( Guid target, Guid sensor, IEnumerable<Guid> adapters, double backFocusTolerance = 0.01, Action<StatTracker>? statsCallback = null, Action<SolutionEventArgs>? solutionUpdate = null, int? workerCount = null, long correlationId = 0); /// <summary> /// Requests a solution. /// </summary> /// <param name="target">The target lens to solve.</param> /// <param name="sensor">The sesnor to solve.</param> /// <param name="adapters">The available adapters.</param> /// <param name="backFocusTolerance">The back focus tolerance.</param> /// <param name="statsCallback">Receive pure stat updates.</param> /// <param name="solutionUpdate">Receive solution progress updates.</param> /// <param name="workerCount">null for auto, 0 for synchronous, anything else will asynchronously run the work count passed.</param> /// <param name="correlationId"></param> /// <returns>The final solution list.</returns> Task<IEnumerable<Solution>> SolveImageTrainAsync( Component target, Component sensor, IEnumerable<Component> adapters, double backFocusTolerance = 0.01, Action<StatTracker>? statsCallback = null, Action<SolutionEventArgs>? solutionUpdate = null, int? workerCount = null, long correlationId = 0); /// <summary> /// Gets or sets the path to images. /// </summary> string PathToImages { get; } /// <summary> /// Gets the path to the database. /// </summary> string PathToDatabase { get; } } }
common_corpus
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Ultimate Ghost Hunting Guide - A comprehensive manual for the Paranormal Researcher Ultimate Ghost Hunting Guide - A comprehensive manual for the Paranormal Researcher Jeff Terrozas Language: English Pages: 63 Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub Ultimate Ghost Hunting Guide is a comprehensive HOW-TO for the beginner or experienced Paranormal Researcher. Ghost Hunting is a fun group activity. However, like anything else knowledge is power. Knowing the tools and skills needed will only enlighten the experience. This is written to encourage the Ghost Hunter in you to get out there and have fun. This book debunks some of the methods used by the celebrity ghost teams. It shows why EMF detectors are unreliable and used improperly by supposed "experts". Table of Contents What is Paranormal Investigating? What is a Ghost? And Types of Entities? Types of Hauntings Indicators of a Possible Haunting How do I investigate the Paranormal? Finding a paranormal location Team Members Collecting Evidence EMF Meters – OK are we ready? First Tier – Cost Effective Equipment for any Investigation Second Tier - Intermediate Equipment for the Casual Investigator Third Tier - Serious Equipment for the Serious Investigator disembodied voices. You may want to do a walkthrough of the location if you are unsure how many team members that will be needed. Again keep your group small for small locations and bring more hunters for a bigger location if you like. Finally, on a walk through insure you have a plan on how you want to investigate. If you are doing a walkthrough with a client then let them do all the talking with you asking relevant questions. We will get more into this when we cover interviewing. Make notes discover an EVP on a nearby audio recorder. My only question is how come the camera microphone didn’t pick up the EVP? It is the same technology. This scenario is just too repetitive on those types of shows and has caused me to question it. I know some will say that the entity must have spoke near the audio recorder and not the investigator. Ok is that every time? Don’t be disenchanted though. EVP’s have intrigued some very reputable people of science and technology. The ideal EVP is something be disappointed when we can’t find that anything has changed. Too many times have I heard the phrase “was that door already shut?” or “was that toy already on the ground?” This was due to lack of proper coverage by the investigating team. Now in my early days, before surveillance systems were cheap, the only way to watch multiple areas at once was to buy large VHS cameras that were pricey and mount them throughout the location on tripods. This also led to the review of hours and hours of particular area; you will want to visit that area and record yourself on camera. There are cases where people have been scratched or bruised by unknown forces. If you run into a case like this, it is rare; I suggest contacting a clergy person to bless the home immediately. Obviously the entity is malevolent or mischievous at best. Lights and toys turning on and off by themselves - this is probably one of the easiest items to debunk. Electrical problems in a house are easy to trace without walkthrough may be necessary for any location. You want to be able to identify, prior to showing up, where you are going to get power for your equipment. It could be very disappointing to arrive at a location and discover that power isn’t available. hI was part of a team that was investigating the back of an incredibly large warehouse. It was just assumed that power would be available. However, when we went to set up cameras and our PC it was discovered that power outlets were only available Download sample
dclm_baseline
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