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Geico supports (reads gives to police) Laser Radars. They have been known to be very picky. No sports cars. No radar detectors (although Maryland insurance board over rules this consistantly). No turbos. Basically it seems if you need to use your insurance ever they don't want you. They once told me they wouldn't insure me (perfect record) because of my corvette even though it would be insured by another specialty insurance. "We must insure all the cars". I think this rep didn't know what she was talking about. Geico is cheap. But if you ever file a claim be prepared to be dropped. I think in most areas two tickets will do it. Geico will never see a dime from me If I can help it.
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What we currently know as the 240sx, is known elsewhere as a 200sx.
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I have a '72 CL350 which I stopped riding about 2 years ago (I upgraded to an '84 Sabre 750). I parked it in the corner of my parking lot, and planned on draining the gas, spraying oil in the tank, etc. to get it ready to store. Well, after a lot of procrastination, all I ended up doing was throwing a tarp on it. Well, now I have to move and want to clean up the 350. I tried starting it (with someone else's battery) and had no luck. My first guess is that it is the gas and so I plan on draining it and replacing it with new gas (I can only pray that I didn't trash the carbeurators). The question is, what do I do with this old gas? I am not going to run it in my Sabre, and I think that there is enough that I don't want to burn it (campus police don't think too kindly about bonfires). Dumping it isn't a great idea. Thanks for any ideas, George Heinz ---- Win the $1,000,000 question -- what does this C code do? (No fair compiling it)
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In the EC, the Corrado VR6 is rated as 'best handling car this side of a 968'. As it goes, I just read an article in 'Autocar & Motor' comparing the VR6 to a Ford Probe (later to be launched in the UK).... The VR6 is more powerful (even more so coz its 2.9 instead of 2.8 in the EC) and more fun to drive etc etc... but the Probe has a slightly smoother engine (thanx Mazda MX6!)...
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"Silver Dream Racer" -- Frustrated Brit club racer's buddy dies, leaving him a built-in-garage "revolutionary, experimental" 500 GP bike. Brit club racer uses machine to beat Bad American on Bad Japanese Factory Bike at British GP. Filmed at Silverstone, I believe. Pretty bad. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Lawson was on the Yamaha. Not taking anything away from Russel, but, well... __ Jorg Klinger | GSXR1100 | If you only new who Arch. & Eng. Services |"Lost Horizons" CR500 | I think I am. UManitoba, Man. Ca. |"The Embalmer" IT175 | - anonymous
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I'm certainly no engineer and really have no scientific basis on which to make this argument, but don't you answer your own question? Is the reflected signal "shifted" at all from the act of being reflected? If so, wouldn't it then be easy for the detector to discriminate between reflections and direct sources?
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It is far from new. It's been around almost as long as dirt. I had one for one of my old bikes. Worked fine. I'm sure, being rigid and nonflexible, that the "Cyclelok" would yield instantly to the freeze and break routine. But then, for $40, what do ya want? Later,
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I want one, and I don't want to move to Europe to buy one. Please make it the next Pontiac F-Car. Of course I'll have to wait 'till 2003 to buy it...
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Just a quick note on the nwe shape MR2s in the UK.... When they first came out here, there were 3 models. The base model had an auto box and engine from the CAMRY 2.0 !!! Well I recentyl found out that this model is no longer profitable for Toyota and have since scraped it. I've also noticed that auto MR2s have depreciated a lot more than the next model up...
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joe, i'm sorry you felt i was pissing on your list. no disparagement was intended and i would be most interested to know what i said that made you feel that way. i am not suggesting that your list is superflous nor that it will not serve a need. i just would like not to see the boxer contingent split, but there is certainly enough net for more than one list. -- -- bob pasker -- rbp@netcom.com
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So you really see no problem with banning them from places to which you don't want to go? Talk to somebody in the insurance industry, particularly after a few drinks. Then talk to my mom (no booze required). :^) Ever heard of the DoD? :^) Nah, you just became complacent that so long as your little quarter acre is safe, you get your little tax deduction, and no act of the government intrudes, in too direct and obvious a way, into your little day to day life, you just don't give a shit.
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Sometimes yes, sometimes no. BDI cagers usually move back then. Hyperagressive assholes just move closer. (Something about testosterone-stimulated behavior, I think.) It's kinda like waving a red flag at a bull. All in all, if you can't move over and let the jerk by, it's better than nothing... tom coradeschi <+> tcora@pica.army.mil
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How DARE you make such an accusation! There are MANY sober, non-drinkers in this state! If We wern't so busy unloading the beer truck for the week end, I might just come up that and have a talk wit you! B-> ----===== DoD #8177 = Technician(Dr. Speed) .NOT. Student =====----
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Sure don't know what bike was being worked on but it sure wasn't a Virago. I've owned both the 750 and 1100 and you can do the filter change in about 5 mins and nothing has to be removed. Obviously the "new" bike was modified as the stock machine is simple to work on. Watching for imitators!!
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Yup. Do it whenever I am in the cage (which is not often if its riding weather ... ie no snow). I find arm out and down and kinda finger wave works best for sport bikes and arm out/up works best for Harleys. Similar to how I wave when I am on the bike. Yah mean like.. Done what? Why Jody we would never, ever even dream of assuming that a young lady of such refined breeding and taste would even consider such things. I mean some matters do not even have to be discussed, by civilized beings... But, in confidence, just between the "two of us", not even once. Or perhaps got excited thinking about it. I know that I do... ;->
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[Useless road design, speed rate discussion deleted.]
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Well, you can just about set your watch by Honda releasing new models every 4 years and an upgrade half way through the cars life. The local acura dealership tells me that the new Integra will be out very soon, i.e. May/June. Its hard to find specific details as the Integra has been deleted from most of the rest of the world - I have seen them in Canada and Australia as well as the U.S. but it was discontinued after the first generation in Europe. Normally you can see new Japanese models appear in Europe or Japan first and extrapolate from there. C+D reported that the engine would be a carryover I think.
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Some of us aren't that fucking stupid you cock sucking asshole. That's why we haven't had our own little DD suaree. I'm soo impressed that you've had to spend your own precious little dollars to make up for your own stupid act. Now go fuck off. Friends killed by Drunk Driving Assholes like Andress Infante: 2 Children friends orphaned by Drunk Driving Assholes like Infante: 2 Now who's the self-righteous asshole, you weak willed fuck head?
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On a related note (since UPS lost my Chain Wax and I'm still using PJ-1/Goo), I found some great stuff to clean chain spooge of wheels. It's called Goo Gone and cleaned the spooge off my rear wheel faster than the Simple Green cleaned the bug guts off my headlight. Wonderful stuff. I recommend that we officially delcare it a DoD Wonder Spooge (tm) product.
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+>[My problem] turned out to be a screw unscrewed inside my Mikuni HS40 +>carb. I keep hearing that one should keep all of the screws +>tight on a bike, but I never thought that I had to do that +>on the screws inside of a carb. At least it was roadside +>fixable and I was on my way in hardly any time. + +Gee, I always figured that it was the loose screws on/in the _rider_ +that were most likely to cause any problems. Did you check for that +at the same time? That is very true. However, screws have been loose on this rider for quite some time, so they had been taken into account. ____________________________________________________________________________ Russian Roulette is fun 5 out of 6 times
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Because riding a passenger doesn't really depend on the type of bike. The things you want a passenger to do/not do is the same. Ergo, if he's asking advice, I reasoned he doesn't have much practice, period. If you say he does, fine. I still wouldn't take the uninitiated up a road that's all switch backs and reverse/center/uncrowned roadway, not to mention the BDCs and squids who will also be on that particular road. He asked for advice, and even though it wasn't what he meant, I still consider it some of the best I've read.
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If this is the same as adjusting the shims between cam and valve, I have the same question. Do you buy a FULL set of shims before starting the adjustment process, or do you calculate the shims you need and then run off to the dealer in the cage to see if the right shims are in stock? Obviously the latter would be cheaper (what do shims cost?), but are measurements of the shim need reliable enough to buy only the indicated shims? Chris
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Okay, okay, I know the Ford Probe is made in the US, in fact it's made in Michigan, at a Mazda plant. My question: are most of the parts from American or Japanese sources? I have been told that most of the US assembly plants for Japanese automakers import almost all of the parts used in the vehicles. Any information anyone has on this will be appreciated!
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Old Nick (the little devil!) wibbles:- % % Tsk, tsk, tsk. Another newbie bites the dust, eh? They'll learn. % Newbie? Eh? Slap yer' credentials on the table, Pete. That'll show him! % % I'm terribly sorry. % And so you damned well should be... young whipper-snapper! It's wet kippers at ten paces if there's any repeat of this sort of thing! Now, in keeping with the grand tradition of wreck.moto, let's mutate! Take your partners by the hand... On Tuesday morning I spent a couple of hours (when I -should- have been working) with a torch, brazing bits of scrap metal over the biggest holes in Yamadog's exhaust pipes (s'mazin' what you can do with a couple of AA cells and a three-volt bulb!). I stuck some "gun-gum" into the smaller holes and bunged the pipes back onto the bike. So, last night I'm on the way home when lo' an' bloody behold, the sodding thing starts blowing again. I check it out and the gas is escaping from around the clamp holding the number two pipe into the port. As far as I can see (it being somewhat "hole of Calcutta" at the time!), the nuts are still there (stop that bloody sniggering, you at the back!), but the pipe is a bit loose. This morning I go out to the bike and pull out the socket-set to tighten up me' nuts (somebody give that spotty kid at the back a good slap round the back of the head!), and lo' an' bloody behold a-bloody-gen, I find that the outer skin of the pipe has separated from the inner sleeve right at the clamp-mating bevel. So, I stuff in a bit of baked-beanz can and a bit more of Mr Holts' very best "gun-gum" and come to work (late again!) so that I can ask of the oracle... Will a brazed joint hold that close to the exhaust port? Anybody tried it? Oh, and if anybody can tell me what the differences are between a 205 and a 207 brazing rod (made by "Gaz" [Yup! the camping folks. Surprised the marmalade outa' me, too!] in that place just off the Isle of Wight) I'd be eternally grateful (twenty-sodding-quid for two rods and I don't even know what I'm buying. Bloody kanji!). -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ | John Little - gaijin@Japan.Sun.COM - Sun Microsystems. Atsugi, Japan |
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VW and Mercedes have tinkered with particulate traps. Also, VW uses a kind of turbocharger on their Jetta ECOdiesel that helps reduce particulates as well, although I don't know the mechanics of it. Many diesel cars,busses, and trucks in Europe are now being equipped with catalysts and traps in an effort to clean up diesel emissions, already well below legal limits anyway. It's a shame GM had to soil the diesel's reputation in passenger cars and prevent further resource devotion to research into making this outstandingly efficient engine even further ahead of gas engines in emissions.
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Having had my car die on me(engine fire, insurance agent said it was probably totaled), I am in the market for a another vehicle. I saw a Toronado that was within my expected price range and was wondering if anybody could relate their experiences with me. Namely: 1. Does it have accceptable power(it has a 305 in it)? 2. Does its being front wheel drive make maintenance difficult? 3. One power window and the power seat do not work, are these expensive items to replace if I do the work myself? 4. How long do the engines usually last( 90M+ now)? 5. Any other experiences good or bad, and opinions.
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I would like to offocially nominate Maxima Chain Wax as another Official (tm) DoD product of choice.
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Well, an LT1 Blazer wouldn't come close to a GMC Typhoon in speed, I think its too heavy. As it is right now, the normal 210HP 5.7 engine has plenty of power for a full size Blazer. Of course, I'm not saying GM shouldn't put the LT1 in it :). It seems like they have a real winner with that engine. Why spend so much more money into getting a 32 valve DOHC V8 when you can take an LT1? It even seems to get pretty good gas MPG (for a 5.7, that is.) [talking about Impala SS] Yeah, it's a flat black, lowered 4 door Caprice riding on 17" aluminum rims and Eagle GS-C tires. The rest of the car is basically a Caprice LTZ (read: plush police package) with 300 horsepower. I heard that Chevy is resurrecting the Monte Carlo but that's going to get their 3.4 DOHC V6 and not the LT1. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- Andrew Krenz -- uznerk@mcl.ucsb.edu | krenz@engrhub.ucsb.edu
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The experience you describe is why I don't like to sit with my bike in gear - I figure there's a chance that I'll be startled in some way and stall my bike. And I figure this is more likely than the chance that I'll be unable to escape some situation because of the extra time needed to put the bike in gear. So I concentrate on avoiding situations rather than making split-second evasive manuvers. I split lanes so I'm not at the end of the line. (Unfortunately this is not legal in most of the country) If I can't split (perhaps there isn't room) then I will stop near one side of the lane so I have an easy escape, and leave my bike in gear until the next car has stopped. I watch in my mirrors in the mean time to make sure it will! Whether I really would have time to move should a car fail to stop, I haven't had to find out yet. Some cars have an annoying habbit of racing up behind you before braking heavilly, so it can be hard to tell if they are planning to brake or not! So in summary, position yourself for an easy exit, and then watch your mirrors until it's all clear.
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I agree about the durability of the old TH400 trannies from GM. While I never intentionally slamed my '68 Firebird 400 ci Conv. into gear, I would leave the trannie in Low (read 1st), grab hold, hit the pedal, and once the tires grabbed, take off. When I reached about 57-60mph the turbo 400 Auto would shift to S (read 'super' or 2nd) and leave about 10 to 15 foot of double stripped rubber on the ground. Most everyone I knew at the time was quite impressed with 'peeling' out at 60 MPH. The trannie held up just fine. Motor mounts would last about a year until I tied the motor down with large chains. Oh yea,FYI: Pontiac 400 ci bored 0.04 over Large Valve heads Holley 650 Spread bore Crain 'BLAZER' cam (don't remember the specs) PosiTrac, Hooker headers, Dual exhaust Get this (Conv., leather seats, power windows power top, AC, Cruise etc.) Oh yea, I also pulled the 'Cocktail shakers' (weights) from the front and removed the lead pellet from the accelerator pedal. (Damn US regulations) OH, HOW I MISS THAT CAR!!! -- 0-60 under 6.7 sec and about 6 to 14 mpg (well I don't miss the mpg) -- front wheels 4" off the ground with three quick jabs at the pedal. -- bent pushrods, stripped rocker studs, every 6-12 months ( I really wonder what kind of rev's I was turning - no tach) Re: Improvements in Automatic Transmissions Anyone seen one of these lately? I'd buy it back in a sec!!!
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If the clutch is in, then a large chunk of counter-rotating mass is not rotating. Hence, at a light, reving makes it twist. Shaft effect is the rear end rising under power or (the real problem) getting lower to the road when the throttle is snapped shut (say when you are cornering and the heads are real close to the road). New GS bikes with the paralever shaft have almost no shaft effect. It's a question of how long you spend at low RPM and how much you need the extra light. At low RPM, 3K and under, they don't charge all that much if at all. The alternators put out sufficient wattage, it just that you need to be at 4K RPM to get it. Full choke. Open the gas taps. Hit the starter and ever so slightly blip the throttle. It should fire. Cranking should be done with minimal throttle. My R100 likes the throttles to be raised just a bit off idle. It's an EXPERIENCE thing. Like Zen, it's hard to describe. It can be hard to learn if you aren't paying atttention to the differences between success and failure. Especially if you get really pissed off and flatten the battery while trying to get it to run. If my bike has been sitting for a few weeks, I give it a short while to start. If it doesn't, I turn it off and wait a few minutes for things to vaporize in the fuel system and then it lights right off. I've got dual plugs which make it easier to start. The BIG fix is the Bing carb upgrade kit. It's good for a few MPG and the parts are alcohol proof. The parts it replaces aren't alcohol proof. As long as the bike isn't going to sit for long periods of time, gasohol is nice since it helps keep ping away. If your bike doesn't ping on cheap gas you ought to raise the compression! (Half a smiley, the BMW twins of the 80s and beyond have lowered compression to keep the EPA happy. Dual plugs and higher compression give back a big chunk of the lost perfomance).
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Victor Johnson, on the Thu, 22 Apr 1993 00:01:10 GMT wibbled: : > }Honda: a "V" designates a V engine street bike. "VF" for V-4, "VT" for V-twin. : > : > So how about my Honda Hawk (NT 650)? It's a twin, but not called a VT. : > -- : That's because they took the old VT 500 engine and stepped on it to make : the plant for the Hawk -> "New Twin". Or does that only fly for Microsoft : NT (New Technology)? : I've been at this too long today ... : Cheers, : Victor "Dances with Hawks" Johnson : ---------------------------------- Also the BMW stuff. K100RS. K = Kraut, RS = Really Slow, 100, I suppose that's how much you have to spend each week to keep the damn thing on the road. -- Nick (the Pissed Off With His Bike Again Biker) DoD 1069 Concise Oxford M'Lud.
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Orating with wild abandon, prange@nickel.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange) offers: %The grips on my GS are a wonderful thing in the winter and no problem %in the summer. Vibration? BMW's don't vibrate. Everyone knows that. I'd agree with Henry. The grips are really nice to have in winter, and aren't noticably different from 'normal' grips in summer. My only complaint is that the 'low' setting might as well be 'off'. This has been complained about by every reviewer, official and unofficial, that's ever talked about these grips. The 'high' setting is often too high for use with lightweight summer gloves when things just get a bit nippy, but since 'low' doesn't produce a noticable effect, I end up turning the grips on and off to keep the temperature about right. This generally isn't a problem when wearing thicker winter gloves. When I asked the dealer if they could fix it, I received a consoling pat on the back, and their sincere apologies for the poor design (actually, I was told they worked just like they were suppose to). Vibration? What's that? I ride a BMW twin. You can barely tell if the engine is fired up or not most of the time, smoother than silk sheets.
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This really bugs me. The emissions of diesels are the cleanest of any vechicle, but they are considered so polluting that they are banned in passenger cars in California. What a bunch of crap. Diesel is the fuel of choice for enviromental benefit in Europe while here it's illegal for the same reason. The particulates are nothing but carbon. They are just an annoyance at worst. Nothing beats the diesel cycle for efficiency and emissions, torque or engine durability. It's also cheaper.
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Only on the FRONT wheel. Use the lever on the right handlebar to accomplish this. Michael
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Lets not forget
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Spike is owned by both Tom and I. We went 1/2's on the purchase price and have split costs of needed parts, registration, etc. Both names are on the pink slip. I am covered by insurance to ride the Harley. I'd give it a go if I could work the clutch. I can barely get the clutch lever to move using both hands while standing next to the bike. Ol' Sport is a very distinctive bike. The Concours is favorite of mine. I've pillioned an easy 4000 miles on that bike in the last year. Unfortunately, my feet are a good 10" off the ground once I'm on her. No way I could take her for a ride as pilot rather than pillion. If I could fit on a Concours, I'd buy one. IMHO, the best sport-tourer made. I'm not _too_ upset I had to settle for the Ducati 750SS as my touring bike, though. :-) So, now you know. Beth
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I have had my Probe looked at twice by my local dealer (where I purchased the car) ... the first time, they made this problem worse. The second time, after advising them of the service bulletin mentioned on my ford-probe mailing list (they said they didn't know of the bulletin), they adjusted the window and made it *much* better. However it now makes a "scritch scritch" noise on rough roads, and *still* squeals when I open/close the window in wet weather (anyone elses's do this?) I got two keys with my car, but only ONE remote-entry push-button thingie! But then, I bought my 93 with 2500 miles, and I think it may have been a repossession ... so I'm not surprised something was missing :-( I am seriously considering following the advice in the owners manual where it describes the procedure to follow if "you discover something on your Ford that could ... cause ... serious injury ... threaten lives ... etc). Something about notifying the National Traffic Safety group as well as Ford. Those little "you've-got-to-position-the-fingers-perfectly-to-make-it-beep" buttons are TERRIBLE. Well, I guess that's good in a way, but in a way it's bad. When someone hears that kind of horn, they expect to see a big American car. They may not associate the sound with a small "jap car" style car (like the Probe is). The mudflaps help a lot. I have always been a 5-speed guy. Almost every car I've ever owned has been a 5-speed. Because I got a good deal on this car with the 2500 miles, I (knowingly) overlooked the fact that it has an automatic. But it is a pretty high-tech automatic. It is a fully electronicaly controlled 4-speed with torque converter lockup. Even with the automatic, I'm getting 35 mpg on the highway, driving 65-70!. (but of course driving > 65 is illegal, so I probably made that sentence up). :-) Around town the mileage has been around 25-27, not bad for an automatic. Of course it doesn't have the "control" of a 5-speed, but since I do a lot of city driving, it turns out to be very convenient. It's nice to be able to drink a cup of coffee and drive at the same time (although that, too, is illegal here in "we-like-to-control-your-life Massachusetts" :-) Shakes and rattles has been my main gripe. I've gotten them to fix the worst of them, but I fear that with the rather harsh ride, the car will be a virtual potpouri of rattles when it gets older. On my 89 Probe GL, I got about 40K out of the original Goodyears, and had driven the replacement tires (Bridgestone) 50K miles when I tradeed the car. The 195/65(60?)VR14 Firestones on my 93 Probe look like they're designed for performance (ie rather wide, shallow tread, etc), so they probably won't last as long. But the car handles very very very well. It sticks to the road like glue, even on a rough surface. Definitely. Ford/Mazda did a very very nice job on this one. The car has a "much more expensive than it actually is" look and feel to it. Having driven an 89 Probe for 4 years, I find the 93 suspension "interesting". The car actually drives much better than the 89 ... it is a very firm ride, and you definitely know about each and every bump in the road. Yet the car remains very civilized on even the bumpiest roads. You Hear and feel the bumps, yet the car retains its posture very well. Well I wouldn't encourage passenger-carrying in the Probe unless the person in the front seat likes to sit with his knees to the dash. As mentioned in the Consumer Reports write-ups, "consider the back seat as a parcel shelf". No biggie to me though (if it had been, I'd not have bought the car! (but it's definitely not a family car)). A/C is a MUST on any Probe from 89 - 93. The 93 in particular sends out a REAL BLAST of cool air when the AC is on MAX. That "lots of glass" you mentioned is what gives the car the "very good visibility" reports you see in all the write-ups. Most "sports/sporty" cars don't have that good visibility. The complaints I've heard re: exhaust system (on 93's) have been on the GT. Of course being a different engine, that is a differeent exhaust system. I was one of those with an 89 who qualified for the free replacement. Since I had already replaced the muffler when I received the notice, I was/am due a refund from Ford. I applied in February and am Still waiting. :-( Yes. I was pretty amazed when I had my car in for some touch-up adjustments this past week, and they had to keep it overnight (too busy for them to get to it) and they offered to pay for a rental). They did make me pay for taxes and insurance though :-( I have to agree that they seem to have some QC problesm. But I seriously feel the car design is sound, and expect it to do very well.
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(message posted by/for roomate) Bike is in good condition, is black, has 23000 miles, mag wheels, front disk, rear drum, good front tire, new back tire, o-ring chain, new battery, new starter and has that laid back look. Bike runs real strong with all four carbs giving their best. Buyer gets a cover (all weather, lockable & heatproof), tank bag (non-magnetic - can't take disks along otherwise!), cargo net & manual. Bike has origional tool kit & matching Yamaha lock. Asking $1700 or Best Offer. I would like to sell this soon, so please CALL (voice!)(ack!) with any questions!
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When did *you* go out and change the laws of physics? :-) According to some numbers I used to see bandied around, shaft drive is on the order of 95-97% efficient, while chain drive is closer to 99%... Seems to me that this makes *chain* drive more efficient, hmmmmm??? And granted, shaft has a lot less maintenance, which is fine, if you don't mind less performance... :-) :-) Randy Davis Email: randy@megatek.com ZX-11 #00072 Pilot {uunet!ucsd}!megatek!randy DoD #0013
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I've had a Valentine for about 9 months now and I agree that it is the best det ector available. The point here is trust and reliability. I've been able to "tr ust" the Valentine more than any other detector I've owend. If the Valentine sa ys that there is a moderate to strong radar source in front of me, then it's mo re than likely to be a speed trap. With my other detectors, I've gotten so many falses that I've begun to ignore someo of the warnings because I didn't want t o drive like I had one foot on the brake and one on the gas pedal. That directional indicator really, really helps. Plus, more info is almost alwa ys better than less info. No matter how smart radar detectors get, the human br ain is usually smarter. So, if I'm going to make a decisio based on information at hand, I want all the info I can get. Plus, if you divide the overall streng th of the radar signal by the number of bogeys reported, you'll find that each bogey is pretty weak and therefore not a radar threat. With other detectors, yo u'll just get one strong warning. My logic may be faulty on this, but I think i t works okay. Although, I must admit that I haven't really noticed the reflection problem of one radar souce.
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How 'bout "Big Faus and Little Halsey" with Robert Redford and that little guy that was in Bonnie & Clyde. Good flick, IMHO. Michael
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I wouldn't want anyone to make kindling out of my front living- room wall and then drive their diesel powered M-60 tank into it, shooting super-hot soot all over my curtains and that freshly made kindling. In other words, please don't FLAME me!
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Whoa! Watch your terminology. "Dealer invoice" is *not* "dealer cost". You'll hear lots of ads screaming "two dollars over dealer invoice!!!" Sounds like a real deal, huh? No. You know what the "dealer invoice" (also called factory invoice) is? It's a piece of paper with numbers on it that the factory sends the dealer. What do the numbers signify? Absolutely nothing. It's a marketing gimmick that the salesman can wave in your face to impress you. Note that nowhere on the "invoice" does it claim to be the real price of the car, and most ads which mention dealer invoice will end with a very fast, low voice saying something like "invoice may not reflect actual dealer cost". Actually, I *guarantee* it does not reflect actual dealer cost.
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Someone once sold heated motorcycle grips via mail order. The were aftermarket replacement grips that had the heating elements mlded into the grip itself. Wires ran outside of the bars, from the grips to a switch and finaly the battery. Cycle Magazine tested them YEARS ago and liked them. Dunno if they are still made. Might check with the snowmobile racers. ----===== DoD #8177 = Technician(Dr. Speed) .NOT. Student =====----
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: To wheelspin in an auto, you keep the gear in N - gas it - then stick the : gear in D... I've never tried this but am sure it works - but does this screw : up the autobox? We're having a bit of a debate about it here... I've known more people to leave their rear ends in pieces doing this, especially if they have reasonable power to transmit and good traction on the road surface. You're better off powerbraking.
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Excerpts from netnews.rec.autos: 24-Apr-93 Honda Mailing list? by James B. Atkins@prism.ga
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& >I'm not familiar with the trannies used in Winston Cup, but in the trans-am & >cars I've played with the transmissions were the racing variety, with & >dog clutches instead of sychros. In a transmission with dog clutches, the & >gears are always engaged with each other and moving the dog clutches & >engages the gears to the shafts. Motorcycle transmissions are the same way. & >Shifting without the clutch on a transmission with syncros can and will cause & >transmission damage, the only question being how long it takesto grenade & >something (for the trans in my 87 Pulsar SE, it was about 3-5k miles, but & >it had a weak tranny in the first place). & & just out of curiosity, how is this "dog clutch" any different from a synchro & transmission. What you described SOUNDS the same to me. In fact, what little & i've studied on trannies, the instructor referred to the synchros as "dogs" & and said they were synonymous. The gears are always meshed in a synchronized & gearbox, and you slip the synchro gears back and forth by shifting. Or at least, & that is what i was taught. Explain, por favour? Motorcycle transmissions don't have synchros. The engagment dogs are very corse and sloppy. There are maybe 6-10 teeth (dogs) on the side of the gears that engage the next gear over as the forks slide the gears back and forth. To shift: start to apply pressure at the same time the clutch is pulled (the clutch is a hand lever) and shift quickly. If you try a slow lazy shift it will grind, you just have to pop it into the next gear before it has a chance to grind. There isn't a neutral between gears (obviously there is, but you can't select it with the shifter) so double clutching is not a possibility. "speed shifting" (which is what I have always heard "clutchless shifting" called) works pretty well for upshifts with some practice, but I usually use the clutch-especially for the lower gears. I think auto (as in automobile) trannys are similar, except that the engagment dogs are very fine, with no slop. And the addition of syncho rings. The gear teeth are always engaged in auto transmissions that are synchronized, but may not be in non-synchro gears (reverse and sometimes first).
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... Speedy, you've got this all wrong. When you're done, buy a better dirt bike, body armor, decent boots, and forget about the weenie street riding. :-)
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I want to thank all the people that responded to my post a few weeks ago about buying an '86 Chev Nova with over 100,000 mi. I decided to buy the car and have had it for about a month. I replaced the front brake pads and changed the oil. So far no problems have surfaced. I received many suggestions and encouragement on this purchase and figured a late "thank you" was better than none. Thanks to all!
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Handlebar mounted windshields on windy days are no fun at all. It has been windy as hell down here for a week or so and it plays hell with the steering. Oh, I still ride. I just bitch a lot about it! ----===== DoD #8177 = Technician(Dr. Speed) .NOT. Student =====----
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[ some real stupid remarks ] ... ... [ lots of serious dribble for no real reason ] ... Hey, I don't really care, but when someone sends me email telling me to fuck off, I get rather pissed. If he posted to the net, I could really care less, but sending mail is just childish. Mr. Infant(e) is just that, an infant. Give him a few more years to grow up and maybe he'll learn some network etiquette. If you can't stand the flames, and you don't have the brains, Stay out of the newsgroup. Kind of catchy n'est pas?
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Just one little thing. Last year, mid-december, a cop pulled me over. It was about -10 Centigrade, and it just started snowing (O.K. you are right, I live in Canada). The cop checked my license, insurance, ownership, looked at my frozen nose and fingers, told me to watch the speed limit more closely, and, entering his cruiser, told me, I was doing 68 instead of 50 km/h. Didn't ticket me, and I REALLY slowed down after that ( I already mentioned it started to snow. ) Safe riding, Stefan. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Especially the '68 Shelby-American GT-500KR (King of the Road, so named to steal GM's planned Camaro King of the Road's thunder :-) Some GT-40s are street legal, some aren't. I found my Shelby-American guide. There were a grand total 126 GT-40s built: GT-40 Coupes 55 GT-40 Road Cars 31 GT-40 Mk II 13 GT-40 Mk IIIs 7 GT-40 Roadsters 5 Mirages 3 GT-40 Mk IVs 12 TOTAL: 126 Additional uncompleted Mk IIIs 6-12 Twelve of these cars were prototypes; 48 racing coupes; 31 road coupes; eight Mk II coupes; 4 LHD Mk IIIs; and 3 RHD Mk IIIs. The other breakdowns follow the above list (eg, 12 were Mk IVs). The LHD/RHD breakdown is only given on the Mk IIIs. The prices (for those which can be bought) are around the $1 Million mark, last I heard, with a projection of some $3.5 Million (or thereabouts) in 2000. It was second only to some penny-ante Ferarri ;-). Shelby won the FIA World Manufacturer's Cup with his Cobras in '65; that was also the year that he retired them from the Shelby-American racing team (in favor of the Ford GT program the next year). That victory broke a 13(?) year Ferarri winning streak. Well, there's lotsa info I could spout, but I'll refrain. Much of this information comes from "Hot Rod" magazine's "Shelby American Cobra/Mustang Guide," which has more info on the Shelby-American Fords than you could _ever_ want to know. James
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Thanks for all the recommendations. I have decide to ignore the service indicators and do oil change myself every 3000 miles. Thanks again for all the responses.
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Greetings all, Can anyone let me know status of UK law about riding motorcycles. I used to ride one about 12 years ago and never took my DOT test ( One of a whole list of things I wished I had done when I was young),but I have passed my car driving test. I now travel from Littlehampton to Brighton every day and I'm getting PISSED off with the traffic/road works. I thinking about getting a 100cc bike ( Don't Laugh ) just to get "Streetwise" and to take my test, then to get a bigger one ( 400 to 600 cc ). Now I have been told I don't have to do the CBT but what will I have to do to get a full licence ? Thanks in advanced Leigh
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nope. 4 cylinder. i wasn't aware that there was another Infiniti with a V-8 besides the Q45. several. the 740i, 730i, 540i, 530i. (4.0 liter and 3.0 liter V-8) one or two? there's at least one V-8 for every platform except the compact (190E). S-class (400SEL, 500SEL), W124 (400E, 500E), and roadster (500SL). acura doesn't have any V-8 cars at the moment.
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Low oil pressure, usually. Could be your oil pump, or... checked your oil lately??? MC
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I'm new to this group and this may have been discussed already, in which case my apologies, but... I have a '92 Integra with an auto box. According to the manual the car has a lock up torque converter, or something similar. What is it, what does it do and how does it work? (Excuse my ignorance). Does anybody know? --Parms.
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Better still, years ago they demonstrated a cold air system which only used "air". It was called a Rovax. The unit worked very well, the short coming was the seal technology. Where is it today?
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Because I'm a guy and most of my pillions are female. Also, the other reasons, like having an idea where you passengers weight is, it being a more comfortable position for the passenger, and it being a more stable configuration all come into it as well. Holding the grab rail is a great idea only for braking, when you don't want the pillion to slide forward into you, otherwise I don't find it works well.
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Yeah, really, no shit! Like that jerk Loch Faircloth that couldn't win an election as a democrat so he switches to republican the year before this past election and takes Terry Sanford out with his bitch and moan campaigning typical of NC senate/house/gubner races. I swear, I'd kick Jesse Helms in the head if I ever got the chance. Maybe then he'd get a fucking clue as to how the rest of the world lives.
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I did it once with a biker-girlfriend in the car, and she told me that I was stupid, the rider wouldn't know why I was waving. ...She's long gone... One.
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My CB750 does it too. The "Switch Continuity" section of the wiring diagram looks something like this: HL L H x--x Low x--x--x (N) x-----x High Dean
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I don't have any written data but I know what I have experienced. I use S-50 in everything including my lawnmowers. In my car it smoothed the idle and reduced the operating temp by 5 degrees. I havent used it long enough to test for wear, but some people I know have. A farmer that lives near by used to have to overhaul his big deisel tractors at least every other year if not every year. Since he has been using S-50 he has went 5 years without an overhaul. Also a friend at a machine shop has in the past rebuilt engines with 200K miles on them because the coustomer thought it was time. These coustomers had ran S-50 since almost new. It was found when measuring the internals of the engine that they showed only about the amount of wear that would be expected of 30K miles not 200K.
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I just installed a MC Power Arc II, and it seems to run great. I also used MC coils, and neither the ignition module or the coils required any new mounting holes to be drilled on my 92 FXSTC. A little soldering and all was fine. Static timing was real easy to set too. On the other side of the coin, my local wrench, whose opinion I invariably seek but don't always adopt, thinks MC Power Arc is a "piece of shit" and says "all them Jap chips are gonna fail you one day". Needless to say, he doesn't like any electronic ignition modules, and recommends the Dyna-S system. I think that's the one with the Hall-effect timing sensor(s), correct?
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this is an interesting point. some people are not really buying the coverage, they are buying 'peace of mind', marketing folks love selling that. i suggest that people *choose* to not engage their minds in peaceless worry rather than buying that 'peace of mind'.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Amazing. And I thought only California got April.
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V4s? I don't know of any. I4s and flat4s are abundant. A whole $h!tload. Minivans, pickups, just about any car above the subcompact/compact range and below the full-size range (with a few exceptions). I6s are much more rare now; the only one I personally know of that's still in production is the venerable Ford 300CID in the F-series pickups. I think that Jeep's big 6's are also straight sixes, but I'm not a big Jeep person. Where are you to not know of V8s? There are Mustangs, Cadillacs, Lincolns, Camaros, Corvettes, Thunderbirds, all real full-size pickups, Crown Vics, Chevy Moby^H^H^H^HCaprice ;-), and even a few Japanese and European vee-hickles with V8s. V10 - Dodge Viper; Dodge promises a truck with a V10. Don't Ferarri and Lamborghini both use V-12s extensively? James
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Glad to hear that the bozo managed to stop. I've only been riding for about two years, but here are my rules for traffic light survival: - I try to *never* stop just over a hill behind a car. If I have to stop in such a location, I pull almost completely next to the car in front of me. If I'm the only one (ie no car in front), I turn the bike somewhat sideways across the lane, to increase my visibility to any oncoming vehicle. Make sure to keep your taillight visible to traffic, though. (NOTE: My bike is bright white; turning sideways on a black bike might not be as beneficial.) - On a flat road, I stop with a bit of room ahead of me (usually about two or three bike lengths). This will (hopefully) give me room to pull forward and to the side as a car approaches. - If you are the last in a line of vehicles, watch your mirrors *constantly!* If you see a vehicle approaching, and can't see any evidence to indicate that he/she is slowing down, get out of the way *now!* - Flicker your brake light. If I'm the last vehicle in line, I will pull and release the brake as a car approaches from behind (noticed the car by watching my mirrors, of course :-). I vary the speed of the flicker, hoping to make the cager notice that there's something in the lane ahead of him. Now, with all that said, it's the situation where you are first in line that I feel most defenseless. If you're first in line, your forward escape route is seriously limited - you can only move forward to the extent that you don't enter the intersection. I leave some room behind the stop line (although around here, the #@$*! light activators are always right up next to the stop line!), and watch the mirrors. I *think* I've decided that hopping off the bike might be the best way out of this situation. Any other ideas for being first in line with no traffic directly behind you? -rob.
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what does that make me for showing up with an old interceptor with worse brakes and handling (due to bent frame) than a VMAX? and i didn't even... uh.... well, i was more than semi-coherent when the ambulance.... uh.... nevermind. axel
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It isn't that bad. At least the Bugatti EB110 has compound curves compared to the slab sides on the Consulier. And the Bugatti has a quad turbo V-12 (thing of it as 4 three cylinder turbo engines tied together). Also Ettore Bugatti's nephew is on the board of directors and had a hand in the development. So that's about as much Bugatti as you are likely to get in today's world. Much like Enzo Ferrari's illegitamate son being allowed to take over part of Ferrari as well... That's funny. I have motorcylclist friends who say the same about `cages'. :-) Most GP 500cc motorcycles are V-4s, and the VF line of Hondas were all V-4s (from the VF-400F through the VF-1000F, including the RC30 race bike and the present VFR-750F). It should be noted that Lancia built a V-4 in recent history in the Fulvia HF, a very pretty Italian coupe.
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and skill. If you haven't done it before, it can be dangerous. It takes some getting used to. Read Ed's list.
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: [... SQUIDS ...] : I felt embarassed at this point to be a motorcyclist. I felt the eyes of those : in cages, witnessing this display, then glancing over to the dealers lot and : damning all those on two wheels. Needless to say, my friend felt a little : uncomfortable and we left. Did you express your embarrassment to the owner? I don't blame you for being embarrassed, but I would have let my feeling be known that the behaviour of their sales staff and apparent enjoyment of such behaviour just cost them a sale and all further sales. : I will now turn off my frustration and go ride... peacefully, to clear my : anger. I only hope that the cop who is following me home, has an open : mind and doesn't associate me with them. Sound good. Enjoy. : BTW, I can't afford a new bike..... Who can?
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I'll third the recommendation as Miracle Spooge. Don't go to the dealer to get it or what happened to me might happen to you: you put a deposit on a new bike. Sigh,
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We were having a problem with instability in the universal gravitational constant that day: the closer I got to those exposed fangs (still dripping, no doubt, with the viscera of the last foolhardy experimenter cum canine psychology) the bigger and heavier the dog appeared to become. Also, recall that the distribution of the ~150lb is one five pound jaw+teeth operated by two 70lb muscles driven by a .005 ounce brain possessing an instinctual heuristic composed of equal parts of bloodlust and ravening hunger. The other ~5 lb is, of course, dog poop, but that varies all over the place as the dog deposits it regularly on the painstakingly manicured and tended lawns of the dog's owner's neighbors (whilst continuously replenishing its inexhaustible supply, no doubt by consuming the likes of folks like me). My very thought at the time, but as I looked down at these once formidable instruments of mayhem, I realized they had become weak and atrophied by too many sedentary hours tapping away at my ergonomically-correct CRT keyboard. There was only one option left: I reached down to the toolbox near my car and grasped my Craftsman 150 ft-lb torque wrench, surely the bludgeon of dire necessity if ever there was one. To my amazement and confusion, the setter started shaking and rolling on the grass, then leapt to its feet and vanished down the street, still quivering and occasionally looking back at me. "Seven at One Blow!" I exclaimed, flexing my new-found biceps and brandishing my Terrible Weapon of Invincibility as I stalked the now-secure environs of my domicile. It was only later that I found out what the dog apparently knew all along: the wrench was defective, would no longer measure torque accurately, and Sears wouldn't fix it or replace it. What I had interpreted as fear and subservience were in fact unmitigated hilarity and contempt. Exactly: nobody can look quite as silly as we can.
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Does anyone have one of these that would care to share some information on? I concerned about the turbo. How reliable is it? How's the gas milage. Please responde to me, not here. Thank you.
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The question is not whether your radio will be stolen. The question is when your radio will be stolen.
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Can you say "*expensive*" ?
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I hate to pick on someone who may have been seriously injured (let's hope not), but: semi-coherent sounds like a good description of someone who shows up at the track w/ a VMax in the first place:-{ tom coradeschi <+> tcora@pica.army.mil
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Not alone at all. My old 83 Accord (now in the hands of a sibling) has a much better engagement of the clutch. Even the old 84 Civic we keep as a beater feels better in this aspect. Note that these are cars with 250,000 kms and 140,000 kms respectively. My 90 Prelude blows both of them away in every respect except smooth clutch engagement. Of course the Kawasaki is the best of the bunch but I need more than 2 wheels most of the time. The Prelude has had a dud clutch from day 1, and after three years and 67,000 kms is no better. Best of luck and feel free to add this to your collection.
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GK>I hear that tires for this car can get really expensive. I GK>currently have Goodyear GT+4s that cost the previous owner $500 GK>for four. Try Eagle GAs, wear better, cost less, lose little handling, and are quieter. I'm going to switch to 225s in my next set, with new rims (Fitti Twists) if I can afford 'em by the time my GAs wear out. GK>is a whole new ritual for me with that fangled pedal! Also, I began GK>to wonder how strong that brake really is. (Today, I backed out of GK>parking spot today and started to drive away before I noticed GK>the glowing brake light. Oops.) Mine is strong enough to not let the car move when it's in, even if you're giving it enough gas to normally move it in 1st. You might need a brake adjustment. GK>The driver's power window creaks when closed all the way. The same GK>thing happens in my parents 1989 Mercury Sable. Oddly, all the GK>other windows work smoothly. Watch it closely, the glass actually flexes from the torque in the motor, it seems stronger in the drivers window then the others. GK>I'm liking the interior amenities more and more each day. The GK>cupholders are great. I've found the location (under the armrest in between the seats) to be a pain, but like having them. They moved it into the dash (pop out) in the '91 model year, MUCH better. GK>I really feel like I don't deserve this car. I really can't GK>believe that I could afford it. I got this car ten years GK>ahead of schedule. :-) I did the same thing. Got a black '89 with 65.5k miles on it for $8k in July '92. GK>I've put together the responses to my questions about the cars, as GK>well as other posts with useful information on these cars. I'll be GK>posting this in the form of a FAQ soon. Grabbed it and archived it. Thanks! GK>If anyone is interested in starting a mailing list, please speak up! GK>I don't know if I have the resources here at Purdue to start one, but GK>maybe someone out there does. I'll be starting one this summer, one way or the other (current software I use dosen't support mailing lists, but is on the RSN list - if not, I'm going to upgrade to another package that DOES have it), that is, if nobody else beats me to it. Will make an announcement here when it goes up.
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Because some people like them (and some people actually need them). Yeah, right. Real muscle cars had a manual transmission, and their clutches aren't that heavy. Shelby-American used plenty of high-powered, high-torque engines, and Carroll only put autos in his cars because people wanted them. (Blasphemers! Heretics! Burn them, burn them for defiling a Shelby with an auto! ;-) Real Cobras (and they were the ultimate sports car at the time) had big-block Fords which turned out prodigious amounts of power and torque, and _none_ of them had automatics. Yeah, if you call a gear shift in the middle of a curve "fun." :-) I personally would _love_ to have a '66 Galaxie 500 7-Liter Coupe, with a fire-breathing 427 and four-onna-floor (to go along side my '66 Galaxie 500 pillarless hardtop with a fire-breathing 390 with three-onna-tree; I love the sound of dual exhaust in the morning! :-). There's no comparison between a REAL American Muscle Car and a car with a big engine and an automatic, IMHO. James
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You are sure that what you call a 200SX we call a 240? Just curious.. We also have a nissan predacessor (sp) to the 240 called a 200, which came in turbo and nonturbo. But i don't think we've ever had a 240 turbo...just curious...(BTW, I'm in the US, if that matters..)
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In the past few years I have owned 3 Mustang GTs and now own a 91 T-Bird SC. They all have had this problem. There was a recall on the T-bird for the brake problem. The Ford dealer replaced the rotors and pads but the rotors warp after about 10K miles. Between this problem and the fit and finish problems on the T-Bird I'll never buy a Ford again.
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AW>>>My 85 Caprice Classic with 120K+ miles has finally reached >>>the threshold of total number of mechanical problems that >>>I am forced to post :). Anyone out there who might be >>>able to give me some pointers on one or more of the below, >>>please e-mail or post! AW>>>1. When making turns, especially when accelerating, >>>there is usually a loud "thunk" from the rear of >>>of the car. Sounds like it could be the differential. Wheel bearing, ujoint. AW>>>2. On starting the car, I get blue (oil) smoke from >>>the exhaust for 5-10 seconds. Exhaust valves Bad valve stem seals. AW>>>3. Brakes. More pedal travel than I feel comfortable >>>with, but master cylinder is full and fluid is Worn pads, rear brakes not adjusted up tight or worn out drums. 90% of low pedal complaints usually are from a rear brake problem. AW>>>4. Tranny. Tranny problems seem to be slowly getting >>>worse -- takes almost 2 seconds to downshift from >>>3rd to 2nd on heavy throttle application, and more >>>recently, it is reluctant to shift from 2nd to 3rd. >>>Fluid (checked with car running with tranny put >>>through all the gears and then back to park, as per >>>Haynes manual) is red and clear, and is on full mark. Possible modulator valve if equipped with one. Also could be the kickdoen cable. AW>>>5. My springs all around are just about shot -- I have >>>4 new shocks on, but car still skips out on bumps >>>in turns at moderate to high speed. How hard are >>>they to change? Can they be reconditioned? Difficult on front. Easy on rear. They are not expensive. about $75-$100 for front and less than $50 for the rear. Its also kind of dangerous to work on the front springs without the proper equipment. Don * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
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One of my brothers had spent a lot of time practicing bizzare tricks on his megabuck/micromass bike. He said he once repelled a dog attack by picking up the rear of the bike and smacking the dog in the side of the head with the rear wheel. The dog had _no_ idea what hit him, and he fled quite rapidly. Then again, he could jump garbage cans without a ramp, so I don't think I'd care to try this one on a motorcycle. That's almost unfair, I've never seen a dog that could use a phone. :-)
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Ivan D. Reid, on the 23 Apr 1993 06:05 PST wibbled: : In article <1993Apr23.121316.1564@news.columbia.edu>, Rob Castro writes... : >When/How do you decide that it is too windy to ride? : When even the seagulls are walking. :-) : Ivan Reid, Paul Scherrer Institute, CH. ivan@cvax.psi.ch : GSX600F, RG250WD. SI=2.66 "You Porsche. Me pass!" DoD #484 When you can make no headway into the wind? When you hear a dull booming noise after going down hill with the wind behind you and you're WFO. Be very careful during the above, as all the controls will have the opposite effect. -- Nick (the Mach 0.22 Biker) DoD 1069 Concise Oxford M'Lud.
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21 Apr 1993 10:28:02 Gillian E Runcie Writes: Dear Gillian That is such a wickedly cool idea; why didn't I think of it??? However, here in Canada the aerials (antenna) are usually near the driver or passenger areas and I would surely be seen......but I'll give it a try anyway. Thanks for the first truely useable piece of information I have heard in a long time (and you are by no means a mere female, as this way at getting back takes real guts to do).
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Before we get into another discussion on the relative merits of a car alarm, let's go on the assumption that one is desired. The question then remains, which one? I've owned a Hornet, and was satisfied, but not enough to get another for my new car. The Alpine has been highly recommended, but what about Clifford and VSE's Derringer 2? Any others? I want all of the standard stuff; door lock interface, starter kill, light flash, LED, valet mode, passive/active, shock/motion sensor, etc... Thanks for the advice!
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To avoid paperwork associated with re-certification as a brand new car, etc. So for ad purposes it's a brand new nameplate, for paperwork it's still a Stanza. Spiros
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This whole discussion is just a religous war. I'd rather have a '93 RX-7 than the Mustang 5.0L for 3 times the price. That's how you explain Porsches selling. Some folks would rather have the Stang... <shrug> Sean
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There is a known problem with the seals on the taillights of <93 probes. Complain loudly to your dealer and get them to install new seals. It is a known problem, present on most (if not all) pre-93 Probes, so you shouldn't have to pay them to fix it. In my case, they fixed it on my extended warranty (I just had to pay a $50 deductable) (the work was valued at something like $185 with labor and parts). Having removed the tail lamps myself on other occasions, I think their estimate was fair.
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My fiancee' and I do quite a bit of sporty riding 2-up. I'll tell you what we've found and the systems we've worked out. - On starts, accelerate MUCH slower than usual. It's tough for the rider to judge how scary fast acceleration is, because we're holding onto something and leaning forward. Remember this. - On turns, have her lean forward and at the same angle as you (normally this means she isn't leaning at all.) It's very disconcerting to be leaned over and have your passenger leaning so that they're sitting straight up. Much balance is lost and this can be dangerous. - On slowing and stopping, do so MUCH slower than usual. Again, it's tough for the rider to judge how scary fast deceleration is, because we're holding onto something and leaning forward. However, you'll figure it out fast because braking too fast will shove the passenger forward into you, which shoves you into the tank at an inopportune location. - Generally, have the passenger keep her knees against you and the bike, not out wide. This helps balance and gives her somegrip. - When you passenger is in fear, she will squeeze her knees against you. Normally this means "slow down, and do it now!". We only have a couple signals. "Slow down" is her either tapping me on the back, or slapping my helmet with all her might. Depends on the urgency of the matter :-) "Turn here" is done by her pointing in the direction of an exit. This is also the sign for "cool! Look at that." "I hafta pee" is the same sign as "turn here". "I'm hungry" is the same sign. "Go faster" is usually done by her jumping up and down on her pegs in glee. I usually see "slow down" more often than "go faster". The best thing to do before the ride is to talk to a riding buddy, and pillion on his or her bike. It's incredibly frustrating, because you're in almost no control. Now, multiply that feeling times ten, because you as a rider know what your bike will do, and your passenger will likely feel you're about to scrape hard parts all the time, or lock up the brakes at any moment, or go careening off the edge of a volcanic mountain, etc. Pillioning yourself is good training to take somebody on your pillion pad. Also, remember that it's much more draining and tiring to ride 2-up than by yourself, because you're concentrating on much more, and "in the Zen of the moment" less. Remember this. ---------------------------------------------------- Pat Loughery [patlo@microsoft.com] Seattle, WA DoD #393, AMA, VME, DIOC, 1KSI=2.53 '91 VFR750F, '91 Nighthawk 750, '82 Seca 650 Turbo ^^^ For Sale
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