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I would stongly recommend a factory service manual, and if you are not an experienced machanic then get a chiltons or haynes (sp?) ALSO. Make sure the bike has cooled at least 6 hours since being run. Read the books and if you have more questions you could mail me. Also, be very careful when tightening valve cover bolts. They take very little torque and breaking one is disaster.
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ed>1. All of us that argue about gyroscopes, etc., throughly understand ed>the technique of countersteering. me>Including all the ones who think that they countersteer all the way me>through a corner?? ed>Well... all the way through a decreasing-radius corner, anyway... Maybe they are riding around an ever-decreasing circle of lies which eventually leads to the truth.... me>The official line here (though I do have my doubts about it) is that the me>front brake is applied first, followed by the rear brake, the idea being me>that you avoid locking up the rear after weight transfer takes place. Me too, though unfortunately the "Official Line" is the one that you have to adhere to if you want to get a full licence. The examiner's guidelines are laid down by the government, and the basic rider education courses have no choice but to follow them. It surprises me that none of the rider groups here, either MAG or the BMF make much noise about the fact that the riding test requires you to ride three feet from the kerb all the time in order to pass, that the front brake must be applied before the rear, that you have to keep looking over your shoulder all the time (instead of just when it is justified) - there's probably a few more too, which I can't think of for the moment. If the riding test could be rejigged a bit to include more of the real-world survival skills and less of the woefully simplistic crap that it contains now, then the accident figures would (imho) reduce still further. Don't think we should include countersteering knowledge in our test though...
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Oh, Bill, you are so full of shit. That's the stupidest thing I've ever heard. ObMOTO: I happened to miss the discussion of deltabox frames, if there was one, because I actually needed to get some work done last week. So if anybody would care to repeat what got said (since I was the guy who asked, and I'm still ignorant) could you email me? Thanks.
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No, the Yanks are. We are are midway through our insipid invasion of Florida and they aren't even aware of it yet. __ Jorg Klinger | GSXR1100 | If you only new who Arch. & Eng. Services |"Lost Horizons" CR500 | I think I am. UManitoba, Man. Ca. |"The Embalmer" IT175 | - anonymous
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Grr. Hate the bastard who picked the weather for today. Went up to visit a friend overnight (about 45 minute ride).. rode up after work, only minor drizzing for the last 5 minutes of the ride... rest of the ride was very zen. Got up this morning, needed to go home and get some disks & stuff to work on her computers with, rainy as all hell. Soaked and cold by the time I got home. Since I didn't have another set of thermals which were dry, I said "to heck with it" and drove my cage back up. Lo and Behold, those funny blue clouds were up in the sky and this warm yellow thing I haven't seen in quite awhile showed up when I was 10 minutes into the trip. And me in my cage. Oh JOY. Happily, my right hand mirror finally showed up at the dealer (dropped the bike when I first got it, put on an EMGO replacement mirror... hated it the entire time that thing was on my bike because I couldn't see a DAMNED thing through it, plus it's flat instead of convex like the stock mirrors, so you get a NARROW ANGLE wobbly blur)... And I got a replacement windshield for my fairing (dropped the original and chipped the front edge... cosmetic but annoying)... so I spent half an hour happily unscrewing things and replacing them this afternoon. 'Bout the only thing I still hate about the bike ('75 CB360T) is the damned "2 D-Cell Flashlight" headlight.
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From: nataraja@rtsg.mot.com (Kumaravel Natarajan) The technology Cummins is applying to diesels to comply with the newer Ca. emissions laws involves three things I know of: 1. All compliant diesels are turbocharged. 2. All use an "aftercooler", which cools the air which was heated by compression by the turbocharger (up to about 25 PSI). 3. A gismo on the injector pump which senses the pressurized air intake, and limits full delivery of fuel while the pressure is low. No scrubbers, catalytic converters, etc, are used. The path from the turbocharger to the exhaust outlet is kept very free. Interestingly, except for the low-pressure fuel limitation, power output and mileage are enhanced by these measures. One can buy aftermarket turbos and aftercoolers which generate more power, lots more power, and these are approved by the CARB.
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i have no experience with State Farm, but i think it's important to differentiate your experience from a typical "accident."
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Yesterday, a friend had asked me to accompany him to a local motorcycle dealer. It has been a while since he last rode (>10 years), and I myself have never bought a new bike from a dealer. What follows is an experience of that visit and of an observation of "SQUILDLY" behavior by other customers and/or sales personel: BACKGROUND: I ride with a group of friends, who mainly are into "cruiser" type bikes. My friend was hell bent on getting an Intruder and had seen a few used ones. He wanted to see what the new ones were going for, so we happened upon a dealer that sold both Suzuki and Yamaha. The place was fairly busy, so we browsed a bit. We happened upon a few Intruders, most of which had SOLD signs on. My friend had been bitten. Well the salesdroid appeared and as my friend started chewing the fat, I moseid on outside. The next thing I know, I see 3 or 4 sport bikes pull in. I could stereo-type the type of riders (backward ball hat, oakley, IQ <40), but I won't. Well they went inside, I didn't think much of it. I figured to each his own. I went back in to see if the salesdroid had his fangs firmly implanted into my friends back, when I noticed the "hormone gang" talking to other salesdroids/managers. Lot's of laughter, jokes etc. No big deal. Here is the part that concerned me. The "HG" and those shop personel that were not busy with customers went back out, where said "HG" members fired up their rides and did the obligatory reving up of those 600 beasts. At this point, one decided to see how much rubber a Katana 600 could deposit in the drive. SQUIDS, I thought to myself. BUT I was appalled that the salesdroids/manager not only condoned this behavior, but encourged it, to the point were they were betting how long he could keep it up and egged him on to pull a wheely as he rode off onto a busy street around rush hour. THe girl that was riding pillion on another bike, seemed rather hormonal about this display, and urged her "pilot" to quickly catch up. The others followed, making sure there Kerkers could be heard as well as felt. I felt embarassed at this point to be a motorcyclist. I felt the eyes of those in cages, witnessing this display, then glancing over to the dealers lot and damning all those on two wheels. Needless to say, my friend felt a little uncomfortable and we left. I will now turn off my frustration and go ride... peacefully, to clear my anger. I only hope that the cop who is following me home, has an open mind and doesn't associate me with them.
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When they explode 'em, all the screws fly away.
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If I'm going to drive on a public road then I need a speedometer, and an odometer helps for navigation. My 1965 Chevy has a bare minimum: Engine-temp and Oil-press warning lights and a fuel gauge. My 1983 VW has tach, water-temp, voltmeter and oil-temp gauges. If I had a turbo car, I'd want a vacuum manifold/boost gauge. An oil pressure gauge is a nice, reassuring gauge to look at. If my car was air cooled, then I would substitute a cyl-head-temp gauge for the water-temp gauge. A few years ago, I looked at the Audi Quattro Si Coupe that Bobby Unser used to win the 1986 Pikes Peak Hill Climb. The gauge layout, from left to right, top to bottom was: ---------------------------------- speedometer ---------------------------------- fuel tranny press temp ---------------------------------- differential water temp temp ---------------------------------- big orange tach oil-press warning light ---------------------------------- oil-temp boost ---------------------------------- oil-press ----------------------------------
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: : I am considering buying a 1993 Chevy or GMC 4x4 full-size pickup with : the extended cab. Any opinions about these vehicles? Have there been : any significant problems? : : -- : Dick Grady Salem, NH, USA grady@world.std.com : So many newsgroups, so little time! I bought a brand new 1992 Chevrolet K2500 HD 4x4 extended cab last May. It has had many, many problems. See my earler post that describes the situation. I went to BBB arbitration, and they ruled that Chevrolet must buy it back from me. If you do get one, stay away from the 5 speed manual with the deep low first gear. They have put three of them in my truck so far. After about 1,500 miles, overdrive either starts rattling or hissing loudly. There is no way to fix them. Chevrolet says that the noise is "a characteristic of the transmission." Also, if you are planning to use your truck to tow, the gear ratios in that tranny suck. On a steep hill, you get up to about 55 MPH in second gear at 4,000 RPM (yellow line). If you shift to third, the RPM drop to only 2,500, and you begin to loose speed. I should point out that the 350 V8 they put in the HD (8600 GVW) trucks is a detuned motor compared to the one they put in the light duty ones. They dropped the compression ratio, supposedly for "engine longevity" reasons. So the light duty 350 may pull better than my truck does. Other things that have gone wrong include the ventilation fan (3 times so far), paint (had specs of rust embedded in the paint from being shipped by rail with no covering), and suspension parts (link between stabilizer and control arm fell off). Any company can make a bad individual car, Chevrolet included. What really bothered me was the way they reacted. They made no attempt to deal with me except to tell me to take it back to the dealer for them to attempt to fix it one more time. So I bought a brand new Ford F250 HD Super Cab with a 460 and an automatic. I will never buy another Chevrolet.
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: To those of you who have the BMW heated handgrips: : What are they like during the summer? Yes, you : wiseguy, I mean while they are off! : Are they comfortable? Do they transmit a lot of : vibration? How do they compare to the stock grips? : To foam grips? : Do they really make a difference during the winter? I just got a K75 and had the heated grips installed. As far as I can tell the grips look and feel the same as the standard grips. They are *not* soft. Last weekend I did a 500 mile round-trip and got to a point where it was in the 30s and raining. Those heated grips were *great*. I've only had the bike a month and the heated grips are already one of my favorite features on the bike.
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must have must must I've seen amps and volts, I would go for the volts must you ask? I would like to know how much gas I have. Of course the gauge I have now dosen't tell me s**t so I could see not having one in favor of a warning light at say, 50mi OOOOOOHHHHH! how I would LOOOVE to have a vacuum gauge on my dash!
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I am planning on buying a repair manual for my ford taurus. (92). Is the $53 Ford shop manual comprehensive enough , covering repairs in all aspects of the car ? how about the haynes manual for tarus ? please email replies if possible.
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I am a little confused on all of the models of the 88-89 bonnevilles. I have heard of the LE SE LSE SSE SSEI. Could someone tell me the differences are far as features or performance. I am also curious to know what the book value is for prefereably the 89 model. And how much less than book value can you usually get them for. In other words how much are they in demand this time of year. I have heard that the mid-spring early summer is the best time to buy.
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Geico has purchased radar guns in several states, I know they have done it here in CT. I have also heard horror stories about people that have been insured by Geico for years and then had 1 accident and were immediately dropped. And once you've been dropped by any insruance company you become labled a high risk, and end up forking out 3 or 4 times what you should be for insurance. My suggestion, stay where you are, or shop around but STAY AWAY from Geico!
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Since we're on the subject of brakes.... does anyone know why a 4WD Vauxhall/ Opel disengages drive to the rear wheels when the brakes are applied? Vauxhall boast about how the car is more stable in fwd mode during braking than in 4wd mode.... how is this so? ...Shaz...
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I waved to a guy on a riding mower this morning. Does that count? BTW, I live in the country... EVERYONE waves out here! ----===== DoD #8177 = Technician(Dr. Speed) .NOT. Student =====----
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A Yugo that will go 1/4mi in 7.7 seconds will _not_ lose on the street. That's just too damn quick. It might be wrapped around a telephone pole at the end of that quarter mile, but it will be there alone... Or you could replace the stock shifter with a Hurst short-throw shifter (available from Ford Motorsport), or any number of other after-market products to boost the performance of a Mustang or Camaro. Can you do _that_ with a '93 RX-7, or, verily, with _any_ MR-2? With the Detroit aftermarket, you can build a Mustang or Camaro which is superior to either car you mention for less than the sticker price of either. Well, gee. It works, and it doesn't break. It transmits power to the drive wheels, and it's essentially zero maintenance--and there's an aftermarket in parts for Ford and Chevy rear-ends, too. Well, the '93 Mustang Cobra (which, from all reports, uses the same running gear as '94 Mustang) has 4-wheel disks. I can't speak for the new Camaro, but I think it does, too. Also, stop and think about the markets here. The Mustang is, and always has been, a mass-market sporty car (that's where the "pony car" class came from) with a performance model. That's why it has the econo-box running gear. That was also factored into the design of the Mustang from the day Lee Iacocca conceived his baby; it was designed as a wide-market car--sporty, yet accessible--with room for performance tweaking. The cars you listed are designed for a specific market niche, and they both fit those niches very well. The Mustang, at least, does well in multiple markets; I can't speak for the Camaro. James
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best way to reduce risk when operating a vehicle is being able to avoid hazards and, for that reason my preferred vehicle is a motorcycle. When I do use a four wheeler my primary reasons are: it will keep me dry, it will keep me warm, or it will carry more cargo. If the four wheeler has as much collision protection as the average motorcycle, then it has enough form me. How do you define safe? One definition of safe is without risk. Is -- Chas DoD #7769
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Here in Australia most cars are manual (privately owned anyway). Why? Not sure, I think it has something to do with the fact that our car industry in the past was more closely aligned with Europe than the US in the past. Now it's aligned with Asia. Scott. _______________________________________________________________________________ Scott Fisher [scott@psy.uwa.oz.au] PH: Aus [61] Perth (09) Local (380 3272). _--_|\ N Department of Psychology / \ W + E University of Western Australia. Perth [32S, 116E]--> *_.--._/ S Nedlands, 6009. PERTH, W.A. v Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
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I have been having problems with a slightly different clutch problem on my 90 Prelude. See rec.autos.tech for more detail. My problem is a false engagement point below the actual one. It also seems affected by weather - it is most noticeable (and annoying) on damp or cold days. My dealer says he can't reproduce the problem - I think I'll just sell the car.
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Not to inject a non-automotive note to this thread, but the BMW opposed twin used in motorcycles for a *long* time is and always has been known as a "boxer".
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Damn straight! As far as I've heard, unless the owner is _very_ hard up, the GT-40s are not for sale at any price that mere mortals could afford. I think the GT-40 actually _is_ street legal, although that particular question is moot (see the price figures below). I wish I could find my Shelby-American guide; it included the GT-40 registry (as of '88 or so). There were precious few of them made (fifty is the number that springs to mind; they made just enough to qualify for the Manufacturer's Cup, or whichever series it was that Shelby broke Ferarri's 13-year winning streak in in '65), and they are all accounted for. The last price I saw estimated on a GT-40 was a little bit over $1,000,000 (yes, that's right, ONE MILLION US DOLLARS; it was second only to some worthless piece of Ferrari that it would blow the doors off of ;-). I don't recall off-hand what the drive configuration was, although I'm certain some must have been LHD, as they had to be sold to qualify for racing. The drivertrain was the Ford 427 (hi-riser, I think, and/or side-oiler) coupled to various 4-speed transmissions. They also used 3-speed manuals; they had lots of problems with the original trannys breaking under the load of the 427. Layout was rear-engine, rear-drive, with the "bundle of snakes" exhaust headers...I can remeber other bits and pieces of info, but I can't remember whether they applied to the GT-40 or the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe...I'll try and find that reference. James
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I'd like to hear stories on experiences with the Hyundai Sonata. I know Consumer Reports has trashed them but the people I know that have them swear by them. They also haven't had the problems with them that Consumer Reports claims. I haven't driven one yet. I have driven a '93 Hyundai Elantra (which Consumer Reports also trashed) and was very impressed with it. The local Hyundai dealership ("no-haggle" policy) is offering an Elantra GLS w/ power moonroof for $13163. They also have a Sonata base, w/ Sunroof for $13997. I know my preference is for a Sonata GLS w/ sunroof and 4-spd automatic. I'll decide which engine I prefer after test driving both the 4-cyl and the V6. The Sonata is also offering a $1500 rebate. Hmmm, that's another question. Is the following scenario the appropriate manner to handle "negotiation"? 1. make offer 2. subtract rebate from offer 3. talk trade 4. subtract trade from offer to get final price
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You don't mention your riding area. If you're in the Eastern part of Ontario Canada, I may be able to help. I love 1 day runs and more. More info needed.
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I still can't understand all the hype about the Impalla SS, it STILL has the ugly Caprice body (Orca on wheels). The Caprice was the worst new body style to come out of Detroit EVER! Now just because the LT1 engine and a few suspension tweeks are being added. Its STILL UGLY, its STILL a BARGE. GM's answer to everything is "throw in a V8 and someone will buy it." Or "add some plastic ground affects and a few stickers and call it a GT, GTZ or SS, and someone will buy it." IMHO GM needs to scrap the Caprice body COMPLETELY and start over with a BLANK sheet of paper. No minor modification (wheel well treatments, tail amp modification, or nose re-design or even the LT1 engine) will help the existing Caprice.
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I don't think that a transmission fluid change will solve your problem. Unless you are in an extremely cold climate and using a very heavy weight fluid. Follow the manufacturer's recommended oil weight. Some of the cars I have had (all standard transmissions 4 or 5 speeds) recommend changing the transmission fluid at 30,000 miles under normal driving conditions. I've gone 100,000 without changing the transmission oil (and had to replace the transmission bearings!). My older cars used 85 weight oil whereas my 92 Honda uses 10-30 motor oil (or maybe 30 weight).
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Primarily milage. Gas is much more expensive, so people are very concerned about it taking a few more liters per kilometer. This, along with narrow old cities, also results in smaller cars with smaller engines. These engines usually don't have the torque to mesh well with an automatic. So, having engines that don't work well with autos, and a great concern for milage, the usual Euro-car has a manual. (Note that not many big Benzes come with manuals. If you've got the money for the car, you've got the money for the gas, and the engine to drive through the slushbox.) As automatics become more efficient, the "bigotry" is probably reduced. Still, everyone knows how to drive a manual, and cars are cheaper with one, and it saves a little expensive fuel. So there aren't compelling reasons to go automatic. -dB
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I was at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum the other day and one of their VERY early winners was 4 valves per cylinder (and either front wheel drive or all wheel drive, I think front wheel drive) and that was in 1914! Spiros
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I have a bayonet in the factory scabbard from a Swedish Mouser mounted to the handlebars of my Zuki'. That 10" blade and my long arms do quite well thank you. ----===== DoD #8177 = Technician(Dr. Speed) .NOT. Student =====----
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My agent is Daniel Sui, and he's done quite a good job for me. You might check with him, as he's located in San Francisco and specializes in bike insurance: Daniel Sui Insurance 338 Balboa Street San Francisco, CA 94118 1-415-752-3157 Michael
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By not being able to drive for a year, it was close enough to jail. And, BTW, where the hell did I ask for sympathy. I asked what to do about insurance, not about my _life_. FWIW, if everyone was _honest_ on this group, I'd others besides me that read this have had a DWI too.
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Hi, I'm now in the market for buying a BMW.The ideal would be an R80 RS but I'd be interested to here of any R80 for sale .Age is not a problem - I'm more interested in a good example without a massive amount of miles and one which has been well maintained as I intend to keep it well and for some time. I would also like to know if anyone has any sound advice as regards to INSURANCE - 27yr old,licence for 9 years,no accidents/claims/convictions.Am I old enough to get BMW owners club insurance yet or will I have to wait until next year? Ian
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If a manual transmission is a "must have", then the M-B 300TE is not in the running. You cannot get a manual transmission in that car in North America. It seems that buyers here (or, maybe more accurately, the distributors) are not interested in manual trannies. The '93 300 line comes with a 217 hp engine. All earlier years are 177 hp. I have an '87 300E, with a "mere" 177 hp and auto tranny, and I find that it has sufficient power for any normal driving situation. More is always nice, but I can't complain. I test drove a Saab 900 CSE last fall. Here are my impressions: 1) Awesome power, especially over 3500rpm, when the turbo really comes on. 2) If you get on the power really hard in a tight corner, the front-wheel drive causes it to understeer heavily, and then viciously "hook" into the corner. Not a desirable handling trait, but common in powerful front drive cars. (The CSE is 200hp. Mercedes is rear-drive, so it does not have this problem.) 3) Huge interior and cargo space. 4) The most "rubbery" shifter I have ever encountered. I drove a 5spd. It was absolutely numb. You might be able to get used to it - I don't know. I also didn't like its location, which was too far down, and too far right. From the shifter's position, I got the impression that Saab really designed the car for an automatic. 5) It was rather noisy: Engine buzz, rattles, and creaks. (Mercedes does not exhibit these characteristics.) You should also check out the new BMW 525 "touring". This is a wagon version of the 525i. It fits into the class with the 300TE and Saabs.
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Kidding, right? Corvette, several MBZ's and BMW's, Mustang GT, etc., etc. There's a lot of them. You from a European site? -Kenny
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Turbo boost is necessary if a turboed car. Fuel reserve warning. Coolant level warning. It would also be nice to have a gauge that would cycle across the different sensors in the FI system such as O2 sensor, altitude, Air Flow... I'd love to get Tranny and diff. Brake temp would be great... And a BIG ASS tach. :) Sean
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#> I heard the diesels are considered cleaner-burning than #> gas engines because the emit less of: Carbon Monoxide, #> Hydrocarbons, and Oxides of Nitrogen. (CO, HC, NOX). #> #> But they can put out a lot of particulate matter. I heard #> something about legislation being discussed to "clean up #> diesel emissions". Is there anything in the works to #> install "scrubbers" for diesels? How about the feasibility #> of installing them on trucks and cars? Would it be any #> different than a catylitic converter? I'd assume easier, #> since we're removing particulate matter instead of converting #> gasses. Let's hear people's opinions... #> # #VW and Mercedes have tinkered with particulate traps. Also, VW #uses a kind of turbocharger on their Jetta ECOdiesel that helps #reduce particulates as well, although I don't know the #mechanics of it. # #Many diesel cars,busses, and trucks in Europe are now being #equipped with catalysts and traps in an effort to clean up #diesel emissions, already well below legal limits anyway. # #It's a shame GM had to soil the diesel's reputation in #passenger cars and prevent further resource devotion to #research into making this outstandingly efficient engine even #further ahead of gas engines in emissions. # #erik I sure don't know what and how they measure in regards to diesel motors in cars, trucks, and busses, but I think they are probably measuring the wrong pollutants, or at the wrong time, or both. I certainly find it offensive to drive behind a diesel bus or diesel truck and some diesel cars. They stink! And it's always roll-up-the-windows panic time when one comes by or ducks in front of me when I am driving with my family. I don't think the combustion mixture is kept under very good control in diesel engines, and that's why they stink. So the invisible, unsmellable pollutants are reduced in diesels. Yeah, well so what!? Someone forgot about the visible, stinky kind, and, as far as I am concerned, those kind are just as bad. I am all for de-stinking the diesel vehicles. It'll keep the traffic signs cleaner, too. Fred W. Bach , Operations Group | Internet: music@erich.triumf.ca TRIUMF (TRI-University Meson Facility) | Voice: 604-222-1047 loc 327/278 4004 WESBROOK MALL, UBC CAMPUS | FAX: 604-222-1074 University of British Columbia, Vancouver, B.C., CANADA V6T 2A3
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Sorry to be contradictory, but... I've had my Nighthawk at 45 degress with the horizon and I wasn't banked over in a turn... The hard part is getting the front in off the ground. I rev to about 7,000 at DROP the clutch. Even harder is keeping it from coming up to far-- I use the back brake as well as the throttle. Once its up, it'll wheelie just like any other bike.
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But you already can go at the speed limit at 4000 rpm. All you need to do is to find a road with a 35 mph speed limit. This isn't quite as silly as it sounds. If you take a nice day trip over back roads (*not* highways full of people trying seriously to get from here to there) then you might be able to hold 35 mph comfortably. You could easily do 500 miles over three different weekends. You might even get to enjoy some of the scenery. Yes, I know this is probably not why you bought a 250 called "Ninja."
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My reason for saying that was 'cause _I_, if _I_ were a cop wouldn't go out of my way to tell people how to break the law. Would you? The part about honesty was a joke, sorta. Obviously, people have had bad experiences with cops lying. Obviously, nobody's perfect and nobody _always_ tells the truth about everything. (Or are you God? 1/4 ;)
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Doesn't sound like they attended, though, does it? In fact, if we riders need friends, it sounds a lot like we might have a whole townfull from Lynn's description, especially if the same crowd gets invited back to party some more year after year. You seem to be one of very few bent out of shape over these "lesser indiscretions". If the towns-people aren't ruffled by the "indiscretions" and the partyers aren't either, maybe the "indiscretions" don't amount to anything more threatening or damaging than harmless good-natured rowdiness among consenting adults. The only thing that really bothered me about the description was the knee-deep empty beer cans in the street, but maybe the town had a plan to deal with that since they helped set up the party in the first place. If I lived there and the bikers' previous visits had established a record of mutual cooperation and good intentions, I'd certainly rather they stick around and party than go riding off into the night impaired and maybe get hurt or killed. If it doesn't hurt anyone, and all the parties to the party benefit and consider the entire activity to be benign and harmless, then who needs to "permit" or "justify" it? You? Why do *you* need to do that? Ironically, these particular townsfolk probably are in the minority that don't happen to fit the stereotype you describe. They've developed a friendly long-term mutually-beneficial relationship with a group of motorcyclists, and aren't as burdened with MC-ignorance as is the general population because of it. If such a need exists, it surely must come from within. Well, you got the "self-righteous wusses" part right, anyway. Chuck Rogers car377@torreys.att.com
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This must be the standard strategy that is taught, cuz that's what they told me to do in my Illinois MSF class. It works well, only you don't get the satisfaction of kicking the shit out of some rabid hell-beast.
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Hi! This is my first time to post on this news group. Now a days , I have stucked at a certain problem. I have '88 mazda mx-6, non turbo fuel injection. There is a engine warning signal on the dash board. While driving, this signal turns on, but not always. What does this mean? In the manual, they say "Go to authorized mazda dealer.". It is really good idea. Don't you think so? I wanna know how the engine warning signal comes. Is anybody out there who can give me same advice as "authorized mazda dealer" can give ? Youjip Won
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Has anyone any experience with the (new?) Yamaha Cyclelok ? It looks like it uses the same hardened steel as a Kryptonite U lock, but unlike a U lock, it is hinged in 5 places and opens out to a large rectangle (longer length than any U lock I have seen, plus it folds down to real small), so you could lock the rear tire to a steel post for example. I was curious as to how well the jointed sections would stand up to attack ? tony
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I read about a SuperTrapp system called E.A.R that was supposed to be quiet enough to pass some European standards. Apparently it's not on the market yet... Yoshimura makes a few systems that are supposed to be "kind of" quiet. They are also really light. I'm planning on getting one of these systems soon, and will post the results. - Mark ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Mark S. Burnham (markb@wc.novell.com) AMA#668966 DoD#0747 Alfa Romeo GTV-6 '90 Ninja 750
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The prob is that you're wrong. Newbie here. I just got off the phone with a salesman that showed by newbieness. If I remember what he said correctly: GSXR250 - no such thing CBR250 - NO. Its CB250. FZR250 - no such thing. Most sport bikes don't have 250 versions.
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This must vary from state to state, because our old company Kemper wanted to drop me (keeping my wife) or tripple our premium because i had 1 ticket. Only 2 points for 10 mph over speed limit. Well i called Geico, and they insured both my wife and i for less then we were previously paying Kemper. Generally i hate the whole insurance game. I realize that it is necessary but the way that a person can get dicked around doesn't make any sense. One good thing about Geico is that everything can be handled over the phone. . / Larry __/ _______/_ keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov / \ _____ __ _____ \------- === ----------- / ____/ / / /__ __/ \ / ___ / / ___ / / / / ____ | | / \/ /__ / | / /__ __/ /__ / \ / /___ \_______/ /_____/ /______/ ====OO \ / \ / - 1990 2.0 16v - ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! -------------------- The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
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Ahh Broncos. Well personally, I have a '78. The blue book is just a hair over 3 grand. I bought it for 2500 and then bought new tires 650 front end rebuild 350, carb rebuild 130. Then i did the unthinkable and blew the engine (not bronco specific, unmaintained engine with 168,000) 2400 more bucks there, now it is in nice condition, well after new seats out of a t-bird, radio, 2 amps, speakers, alarm, well the radio and amps were free and i bought the speakers used for 40 bucks, and the other speakers i took out of my old jeep (Sell a Jeep for a bronco you might ask, but it was a Wagoneer). Its a lovely specimen, solid front and rear axels, ford 9" and a dana 44 up front. Watch the rear axel wrap, i busted off my u-bolts ONCE, i added traction shocks after that and haven't had a problem since. Also the bottom of the doors tend to rot, bottom of the tailgates likes to rust right up to the new ones that might be in your budget. The post 80 broncos have that sickly TTB front end and little stamped and folded steel radius arms were as the 78-79 have nice big cast iron longer radius arms(ie more prspective wheel travel). The only rust i have is on my doors and a few dings in the sheet metal. I don't know when the removeable tops were discontinued but they are fun. I just ordered a full convertable top for 400$ for mine(credit card). Don't ever break the window if you have the double laminated bronzed privacy glass in your cap it is over 400 bucks to replace. My bronco also does pretty good offroad, i haven't bottomed out my suspension, YET, and have crossed over 3 foot deep of water with no problems, handles rocks like a charm too. One problem is it is WIDE and you sometimes can't follow a CJ or a Toyota, between two rocks or trees, and your grandmother will have a hard time getting up into it.
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[i agree wholeheartedly!!] not sure about there in CA, but here in US, the manuals are quite often the standard equipment. Of course, FINDING a car with one might be hard, but if you read the sticker on the window, there is usally an additional 2k or so tacked on for that lousy tranny. So you actually ARE paying more, just that it's sometimes hard to find one that is equipped "standard". (this applies to MOST cars, but not to the luxoyachts..eg caddilac, licolns, etc..)
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Another F2 rider had similiar problems, and this is the mail I sent him, hope this helps resolve you problem! AT Good point, did not catch this in the original post. The only other things which come to mind, since this is a gravity feed fuel system, is this. The fuel petcock valve is vacuum controlled from the #1 carburator. Let suppose there is a small hole or bad seal either in the hose itself or the vacuum valve in the fuel petcock. When it is cold, the hole is open enough to open the valve just enough to allow gas to the carbs with the choke on, since the choke creates more low pressure in the carbs when on to draw gas, and as the engine and surrounding area warm up, the hole seals up. One way to check fuel flow through the valve would be to pull the side panels off and remove the fuel hose to the carbs. Connect a tube of the correct size, preferably clear tubing to observe fuel flow, on the output side of the fuel petcock. Remove the control hose from #1 carburator. Make sure the tank is full. Place the valve in the ON position and apply vacuum to the control hose, preferably with a vacuum device with a gauge, to check for air leaks. With vacuum applied, fuel should flow freely. To see if there is a vent problem, do this with the fuel filler cap open and closed, if it flows a lot faster with the filler cap open, then there may be something in the vent airway which changes position and depending on the position may clog or partially clog the vent. I have heard of some F2 fuel tanks being replaced to fix this problem. So the things which might be defective are, the control hose from #1 carb, the petcock valve, and possibly the fuel tank vent. Now if all of the above shows no problem of fuel flow when cold, then there is something in the carbs screwed up, but there are so many things to check, I would be typing all day to list them all! Here are a few, with everything back together, apply vacuum to the petcock valve and open the drain holes on the carbs one by one to check fuel flow. Open up the airbox and check for foreign debris or clogged airways on the carbs, there are quite a few on each carb. I hope something is flushed out with all this trouble shooting. If American Honda does not resolve this, get MAD AS HELL and report them to the BBB and call the Honda Customer Service HOTLINE. It is a 800 number, but I don't recall it off the top of my head. I called just about tires for my F2 and a few days later a customer satisfaction inquiry card arrived at home asking how I liked the support I received, here would be your chance to tell them what you think!
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Only if he was a "true motorcyclist with the real riding attitude." As you probably are aware, there is a sure-fire rec.moto test for this attribute. Why? You think (s)he's worried about road-rash?
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I don't remember the formula's off hand as it has been awhile since I took aerodynamics and haven't used the stuff since. The Cd is related to the drag force which is what effects top speed and fuel consumption. When the drag force on the car or aircraft is greater than what the vehicle's engine can overcome it has reached its top speed. (autos of course also have to overcome rolling resistance) Since drag opposes the vehicle's motion, the engine must make up for that by burning more fuel. Anyway, since the geometery of an auto is rather complex, the Drag,pressure coeffiecent,etc is either found experimentaly, or using a numerical method. anyway for flow around a cylinder the drag coeff is: Cd = d/(q*2R) where d is the drag force, q the flow velocity and R is the radius of the clyinder. To get a rough (very rough) estimate, you can set R at 1/2 the car's width, q at the car's speed and knowing the Cd, find the drag force that the car would need to overcome.
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McGuyers makes a full line of polishing compounds and waxes... Read the lables and pick the one that matches the marks that you see on the paint. Then do both you and your fiance a favor by putting a nice thick coat of the carnuba wax on the bike. After that those little scratches will just buff out.
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We were at a dealership today looking at buying a car and the salesman was showing us something he was calling a "buy back". Is that a car that was fleeted and then given back for the new model the next year? If that is so, how many miles is a good number to have on it and are these types of cars generally a good buy?
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Another tip is to make sure you keep well to one side of the lane. This gives you a quicker escape route.
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I also experience this kinda problem in my 89 BMW 318. During cold start ups, the clutch seems to be sticky and everytime i drive out, for about 5km, the clutch seems to stick onto somewhere that if i depress the clutch, the whole chassis moves along. But after preheating, it becomes smooth again. I think that your suggestion of being some humudity is right but there should be some remedy. I also found out that my clutch is already thin but still alright for a couple grand more!
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Having recently purchased a 93 Probe with clear-coat paint, I would like to give it a good wax job. What is the Best type of wax to use for this type of finish? Is paste or liquid better? I would be waxing it by hand, and buffing it by hand, I guess using cheesecloth to buff it (anything better you would suggest?). I've heard comments here before about things like Turtle Wax and Raindance not being very good, so I'm wondering what is recommended for a quality finish. Thanks in advance. Bill
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It is actually simple in principle. Porous adsorbents like zeolite and activated carbon can adsorb gases evaporated from the adsorbate (water or methanol, etc.) giving the cooling effect. Upon being heated, the gas-saturated adsorbent bed will give off the gases which are then to be condensed. This forms the adsorption refrigeration cycle. The only problem is that the COP is very low (0.2 -0.6). Max
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folks, i am going to be purchasing a new vehicle in the next few months. i am trying to hold out until the fall since i have heard that i can be in a better negotiating position to purchase a '93 right when the '94s are coming out. i need something that can comfortably carry 2 adults, 2 kids in car seats, and 2 60-pound dogs. i can probably afford something in the 14k-16k range. i am interested in the SUV's but am not sure there are any that are decent which i can afford. i think the ford explorer got good reviews from consumer reports but is above my $$$ range. the isuzu rodeo is probably in my price range but i think consumer reports gave it a big thumbs down. can anyone offer any suggestions? i am hoping for something a little more hip than the traditional wagon, and the SUVs look like fun (we do a lot of camping too).
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I'm not sure if this made it out so i'll try again. I have an Ecklar's (sp?) Corvette car cover for sale. The cover is canvas on the outside and felt on the inside. It is weather proof and in great condition. I'm asking $95.00 and I'll pay shipping. (originally $175.00 in October of 1992).
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Hi there kids and kidlets... It your ol' pal the KotPM (Keeper of the Pin Money!) I've got good new and bad news... Good news - I got laid..er... The pins will be coming, to use the computer software phrase, "real soon now" Bad news - Right after we placed our order, the company upped its minimum order for manufacturing. We got in under the wire (with an order of 115 or so pins), but as a result of the low number of pins, we were relegated to the "we'll get to it in-between other runs" bin. As a result, it seems that it may be another 4 or 5 weeks until your beloved Geeky is guiding you along the blacktop.. (And we thought madonnas on the dashboard were foolish; hmmm, now, if that were Madonna sitting on my dashboard, that could be DANGEROUS...hell. I'm tough.) SO...please continue to be patient. As soon as they arrive, I'll post the grand announcement, and rush our Messiah on his way directly to your abode. In the meantime, if you need revised versions of the holy word of Geeky, please send $15.95 cash or money order (no COD's) to: Ranch Apocalyp...er......Ashram Geeky, 305 Cyberspace Place... I'm off to MSF class...hope it's not too BORING...my wife made me go with her!
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I was just wondering what kind (brand, name, etc...) would be best on this bike.... thanks for your advice....
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I am curious about knowing which commericial cars today have v engines. V4 - I don't know of any. V6 - Legend, MR3? MR6? V8 - Don't know of any. V12 - Jaguar XJS Please add to the list.
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Accusation? I thought it was a recommendation. (I mean, I did grow up there, I oughta know). Bring the truck and about 10 pounds of crawfish and we'll talk.
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]joe, i'm sorry you felt i was pissing on your list. no disparagement ]was intended and i would be most interested to know what i said that ]made you feel that way. you didn't, I meant 'pissing' like boxer owners 'piss' on K bike owners and K bike owners 'piss' on boxer owners and so forth. in the end it's nothing more than co-owner ribbing. no disparagement was received or returned intentionally, sorry 'bout the lack of :-)'s.
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This is maybe not a Pet Peeve, but definitely a Playmate Peeve: Does this make anyone's Skeptic Alarm (tm) go off? No offense, Bill, I don't mean to say that you're not being straight, but I wonder how you know about this? Have you actually every used your secret method to break all the different kinds of bike locks? Or are you taking someone's word for it? The fact is, it is unlikely that someone reading anything here is going to go into a successful bike-stealing business because they read anything in rec.motorcycles. So please tell us what you are talking about. We can't even protect against an assault, or discuss methods, if you don't come out with it. See, I have heard the ones about the pipes, and the liquid nitrogen, and the cordless Dremel tools, and a bunch of other ones. The most plausable method (I am not a bike thief, so I really don't know for certain) is just to put a rod through each wheel, and use four guys to just lift the bike into a truck. This works because most people don't lock their bikes TO anything. Since that method is so childishly easy, I figure a nice, visible chain or cable locking the bike to something is likely to make a lazy thief go on to the next bike. (Hey, finally an advantage to the weight and high CG of the Concours! :-) What tactic are you referring to? If we don't know what you are talking about, we can't very well guard against it, can we? For my money (literally) I rely on a combination of a motion-detector alarm with pager when I'm out of earshot of the bike in a questionable area, C&C insurance, and I try to park in obvious, visible areas with lots of people about. (See, if someone just plays with the bike without intention of stealing it, at least some eyes are on it, and if they get too rambunctious, they'll set off the alarm.) That's for a nice bike. For a ratbike, the trick is to always keep its actual value well below blue-book, so that it looks so crappy nobody would WANT to steal it, and even if they were stupid enough to, you would make a profit on the deal. :-) Seriously, if I (for instance) need to go on a business trip for a week, and (sadly) have to leave the bikes sitting, they both get a shitty-looking, but useable cover, locked on, and both bikes locked to each other and a curb bumper in the parking lot under the light. I usually rig the cable locks I use (aircraft cable) so that if anyone pulls on either bike or the cable joining them, the Concours alarm goes off. And I have a friend come buy every day to have a look and make sure they're still there. The only thing I have ever had stolen was a $60 cover, and that was over winter storage, with the battery out of the bike (and thus no alarm). Oh, put your own eyelets into the cover for the locks to pass through, and place them so that they have to absolutely destroy the cover to get it off. That's the best that I can think of. Most of the locks I see people put on bikes look, well, not too mechanically sound. I like ABUS, since I have personally removed Master locks from lockers with my boot.
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[Loads of horrendous MZ engine problems deleted] Yeah, buy a four-stroke.
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"The Villager-Quest seem like the best of the Cravan/Voyager copies to come along since the Mazda MPV." I'll agree about villager but not MPV -- it's so small that I'd class it as a SUV with an extra seat shoehorned in. To get any rear cargo space, you shove the back seat up against the middle seat, eliminating *all* leg room. Back to the Villager ... "Only the price is controversial." And the use of attack belts instead of 3-point belts. That killed it for me.
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Cost is lower than OEM replacements and they weigh less. Also, in most instances you do not have to rejet the carburetors to get a little more performance. I replaced my OEM canister with an Ontario systems slip on. The mid-range performance is better but I also notice a slight stumble at 2-3K rpm. After talking to Kaz Yoshima, the developer and manufacturer of the slip on, he thinks I might need larger pilot, idle, jets. Was not suppose to but maybe where I live makes a difference. Altitude, barometric pressure... Anyway, besides that minor glitch, I like the slip on performance and the sound, which is louder than stock, but not loud enough to annoy folks. The Ontario slip on use some sort of sound baffling technique to reduce the sound at full throttle. Just remember, every bike is a tuned system. When you change the intake or exhaust characteristics beyond the allowable delta of the manufacturer, you may have to change other areas to compensate. Like a complete change of the exhaust system, header and muffler, changes the exhaust characteristic to the point which re-jetting is required to compensate for the new engine breathing/pumping profile. Talk with the folks who make the slip on you intend to use and ask them if they have used it on your particular bike. Check with people who have the system also to see what they think about there slip on. Also, as a last data point, in Sport Rider's first issue, did a review on a group of header and exhaust systems for the CBR600F2. They also included, as a side bar, the Ontario slip on, the Dyno showed an increase from stock of 5bhp at the rear wheel, 85 verses 91. Buyer beware, of outrageous claimed increases in horse power! It may have been true in the past, but not today!
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V16 anyone? Anyone heard of a Cizata V16T ??? Its mainly sold in the middle east where they dont have as strict a legislation as in the USA and EC....
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You could, but it would be considerably cheaper to spend $8 or so on a trickle charger from K-Mart, Venture, or Target, then it would be to replace the halogen lamp power supply after you fuse it trying to pump current into the battery... While charging, the charger should be putting out around 14 or 15 volts as well...
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Be careful that you do not have any weight of the helmet resting on the mirror. It will depress the foam liner in the helmet. That is not the kind of foam that bounces back, like foam rubber. Its purpose in life is to absorb energy in an impact as it is compressed by your noggin. If your mirror compresses it, there is that much less energy absorbing capacity left to cushon your noggin in a crash. I found the right handlebar to be a good spot, if on the sidestand. Hang with the chinbar facing up, balanced across the grip and brake lever such that the weight of the helmet doesn't compress any of the chinbar foam. This is more challanging with an open face helmet.
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Yeh. Be tough to pick up UK Telly in your situation:-} No signs of Type 259 ads in TV in the states yet, but I don't watch much, so I'm not in a real position to comment. BUT! I got my invite to the dealer introduction "On the deck out back". RSVP is on the way!!!!!! tom coradeschi <+> tcora@pica.army.mil
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Yer welcome to ride with me and my friends any time. Just introduce your self at the earliest opportunity and say "Mind if I rid with you guys?" ----===== DoD #8177 = Technician(Dr. Speed) .NOT. Student =====----
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They don't. It's a closed access road, you pay to get in (if you don't have a resident sticker), and they simply don't open the gates if you're on a bike.
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My $0.02 worth: I did this once. BDI LadyCager in a Town Car passed me on the right on a two lane road!:-{ I memorized her license plate (this in the days before I carried pen and paper in my tankbag) and went to the local police station. Cops filled out the ticket. I signed it. She paid it! tom coradeschi <+> tcora@pica.army.mil
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I am looking at the honda shadow 11000 and the intruder 800 or 1400? what have you heard about these bikes?
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Hello again. Anyone here done any tinting work. What are the best brands out there? How about applications...I heard there was a water based brand that s you can move around, till it's just right, and you then let it dry like that. Also I would consider having it professionally done, how much around Wisconsin or Chcago area, that does a decent job, fairly cheap. (college kid) Thanks for all the info... Ps. What is the maximum legal tint limit.
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i of course car safety is important.. I for one used to think that these guys are going way OTT with their airtbags (sorry del button dont work) and side impact bars and crash zones and (the list goes on) just tpo make the car heavbier (and all its penalties) ... bur recently I had a little accident (on my bike) and not as bad as John's ..... but after the accident - it made me realizer I should have worn a helmet (my mom always insistede I should... I was more concerned about my hair style).....
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Yeah, but I hate to follow them with the exhaust at ground level. Not all diesels are well maintained, either, it seems they run for so long that people keep them going long after the top end is worn out.
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I recently sold my Nighthawk in order to upgrade to a zippy little sport bike. I am, however, partial to the bigger zippy bikes like the GSX-R 750. There is only one in my town for sale, and he is not sure whether he wants to part with it or not! Please send me email if you would like to sell yours, know of one for sale, or could just offer details on the performance of yours even if you wouldn't sell. I appreciate any help! THE HYPEMAN
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Hi, I need your help with a problem I have with a 1989 Mitsubishi Galant GS transmission. The car has a 5 speed manual tranmission. Since the car was bought new, while shifting from 2nd to 3rd, unless I do it SLOWLY and carefully, it makes a "popping" or "hitting" sound. The dealer and Mitsubishi customer service (reached by an 800 #) say this is NORMAL for the car. IS IT? And about a year ago, at 35Kmiles, the stick shift handle got STUCK while attempting to put it in reverse: 1- The shifter would not budge. The clutch had no effect. 2- The front tires would not budge, even when the clutch is fully depressed. 3- If the clutch is released the engine would die. 4- Assuming that some gear was engaged while the shifter was stuck, I could not make the car move. It acted as if it were in Neutral(except for dying when clutch is released.) 5- I finally was able to release the shifter by having someone rock the car back and forth (less than an inch), while I depressed the clutch and jiggled the shifter. 6- The shifter acted normally after that. When this happened, I took it to the dealer, they checked the clutch, it was o.k. They checked the transmission, it was o.k. I had the exact problem a couple of months ago, and again last week. The dealer says there is nothing they can do because Mitsubishi (the 800 #) says they have never heard of the problem, and the dealer could not reproduce the problem while they had the car. In all three occurances, the car was parked head first in a garage, and since the front wheels were stuck, the car could not be towed to the dealer before releasing the shifter (hence temporarily solving the problem). And the dealer, and Mitsubishi, refused to send someone to check the car while it was stuck. I KNOW there is smething wrong with the transmission (shifting from 2nd to 3rd), and getting stuck at random, but I can't get the dealer to fix it. I need your help with the mechanical problems, and with how to handle Mitsubishi. All hints and suggestions are greatly appreciated, and sorry to bore you with the long post.
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Most bikes I've seen that use a dipstick rather than a sight glass are designed to check it without screwing it in. In the manual for my CBR900RR, they specifically state it should be done this way. Michael
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I agree with Jeff's reply. I've never changed the brake fluid except when having a brake job, which is usually at around 80,000 miles (alot of freeway driving). However, I will start to do this as preventative maintenance on my new car. Also, there are brake system flushing agents that can be used but the problem is that if any of the agent is left in the system, it can cause problems, so it's been recommended NOT to use them unless you are 100% certain that you can remove all of the flushing agent. Just for your info, I was quoted a price of: labor=$29.95 and fluid=$9.95 for flushing the brake system; this in conjunction with a break job so I don't know if it was more without the brake job. This is in the S.F Bay Area.
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-- In 1972, they lowered the engine compression so that it would run on regular gas (not to mention the addition of emission controls). The '72 also added pop-out rear quarter windows... Alot of parts are available for the GT from C & R Small Cars in CT and used from Bill Daley's Opel Parts in MA.... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Matthew R. Singer MIT Lincoln Laboratory (617) 981-3771 244 Wood Street singer@ll.mit.edu Lexington, MA 02173
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It's a shame there's no law against Driving While Stupid. After a little while it would prevent all kinds of accidents. Dean
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What jetting do you recommend for a ZX-11 (with standard mufflers) instead of the standard one (idle-38, main-155). Cheers.
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who cares about typos of these meaningless, synthetic names? if the cars were named after a person, e.g. honda, i'd be more respectful. wrong! the GS300 and SC300 use straight sixes, while the ES300 uses a V6. only a giant like toyota can afford to have both a V6 and inline 6 in its lineup, but that won't last for long.
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Unable to stand the pain anymore, my wife bought the Corbin Gunfighter and Lady with Passenger Backrest for my Hawk GT. It came with no instructions, but it came 2 weeks earlier than they said it would. Installation would have been very easy, but the seat fastening hardware was apparently always on the wrong sides with the stock seat! It never was easy to put on. Once I figured that out, the new seat went on the first try. The passenger backrest, though, does not fit as I thought it might. The supplied screw to set the backrest angle does not fit, and I have not yet found a suitable, hard, ( SAE grade 8, or perhaps 5 ) 1/4-20 bolt that fits. There is a a soft bolt in there now -- just don't lean back. The driver's section of the seat is a bit wider. Seems comfortable enough, but then again I put about 5000 miles on the stock seat without a thought. The passenger's section has about 8 times the volume of foam that the stock seat has, and from my short test it seems much more comfortable. The backrest helps a bit, but I've not has enough time to really test it. The backrest also comes with a small pocket. Its now more difficult to swing my leg up over the 10" taller seat. If I go on the three-notch ride soon ( Dixville, Pinkham & Smugglers), I'll give a more complete report, but in general it seems like an improvement.
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QUESTION: what's your experience with car wash wax? This is the liquid type of wax in bottles that you pour it in water, sponge it on you car, hose it off, and dry it with cloth. Many people have used it. It is very easy to work with and gives seeminly the same visual results as that of paste type of wax. But, does it last long? Does it have any negative effects to car paint? Can you forward your reply directly to my email id? Thanks.
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BMWs boxer twin! (no two wheelers here?) Been around since 1923. I think the other examples are Johnny come latelies... I may be wrong so no flames please..
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Knight Riders has got to be one of the silliest movies I've ever seen.
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I just saw a picture of the '94 Mustang in Popular Mechanics - what a disappointment after being bombarded with pictures of the Mach III...
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Brad Thone <C09615BT@WUVMD> writes... Yep. If Ed's list is over 45-degrees, the wind's too strong to ride. :-)
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Then what is a "Flat-" engine???
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While on my bike I wave to anyone who looks. Sort of like the "small town" or "wide open spaces" type thing that someone from Louisiana mentioned. (Like when I'm in Arkansas or Helena MT.) Kids are especially fun - both genders (Watch it Cliff!! :-) ) In the cage I usually wave to bikers. They usually don't wave back. My wife thinks it's strange but I don't care.
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FOR SALE OR TRADE!!! BMW R60US frame and misc.,converted to Earles fork. The package includes: Frame, swingarm and Earles fork Final drive(27/8) Rear fender, front fender, large tank Steel wheels laced w/ ss spokes, one new rim, one EC used rim All brackets, brake hdware, footrests etc. The colour scheme used is the original BMW optional Bristol grey Items not painted are: Earles rigid section(needs straightening, this rigid section was bent when I received it, not from being mounted to the R60US frame),Earles swingarm and the headlight shell. I have the paintthat was used and can finish the non-painted items if desired. The striping was done by Holt Design. Not included: engine, gearbox, electrics, seat. This is a clean and tidy project. The project was terminated due to lack of time and the R69(35hp) engine that was to be used was transferred to another project. I would prefer to sell the package as whole. I am negotiable as to what can be included in the package, I will not separate any of the painted items. I am willing to take /2 spares in trade.
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How about some sources for all these numbers? Or is this more stuff that "everybody knows"?
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