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AI+for+Trading+Learning+Nanodegree+Program+Syllabus.pdf
|
Nanodegree Program Syllabus
I N D I V I D U A L L E A R N E R S
Artificial Intelligence
for Trading
S C H O O L O F A R T I F I C I A L I N T E L L I G E N C E
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 2
Overview
In this program, learners will analyze real data and build financial models for trading. Whether learners want to level up
in finance, obtain new skills in quant trading, or learn the latest AI applications in quantitative finance, this program offers
them the opportunity to gain mastery of valuable data and AI skills. Building a project is one of the best ways to demonstrate
the skills students have learned learned, and each project will contribute to an impressive professional portfolio that will
demonstrate learners newly acquired knowledge of quantitative finance.
Built in collaboration with:
Program information
Learners need access to a computer running OS X or Windows; Python 3.7.
A well-prepared learner should have experience programming with Python and familiarity with statistics, linear
algebra, and calculus.
6 months at 10hrs/week*
Estimated Time
Prerequisites
Required Hardware/Software
Intermediate
Skill Level
*The length of this program is an estimation of total hours the average student may take to complete all required
coursework, including lecture and project time. If you spend about 5-10 hours per week working through the program, you
should finish within the time provided. Actual hours may vary.
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 3
Course 1
Course 1: Basic Quantitative Trading
In this course, students will learn about market mechanics and how to generate signals with stocks. The first project is to
develop a momentum trading strategy.
Trading with Momentum
In this project, students will learn to implement a momentum trading strategy and test if it has the potential
to be profitable. Learners will work with historical data of a given stock universe and generate a trading
signal based on a momentum indicator. Learners will then compute the signal and produce projected
returns. Finally, learners will perform a statistical test to conclude if there is alpha in the signal.
Course Project
Lesson 1
Introduction
Lesson 2
Stock Prices
Lesson 3
Market Mechanics
Lesson 4
Data Processing
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 4
Lesson 5
Stock Returns
Lesson 6
Momentum Trading
Advanced Quantitative Trading
In this course, learners will get to know the workflow that a quant follows for signal generation, and also learn to apply
advanced quantitative methods in trading.
Breakout Strategy
In this project, learners will code and evaluate a breakout signal. Learners will run statistical tests for
normality and to find alpha. Students will also learn to find outliers and evaluate the effect that filtered
outliers could have on their trading signal. Learners will run various scenarios of their model with or without
the outliers and decide if the outliers should be kept or not.
Course Project
Course 2
Lesson 1
Quant Workflow
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 5
Lesson 2
Outliers & Filtering Signals
Lesson 3
Regression
Lesson 4
Time Series Modeling
Lesson 5
Volatility
Lesson 6
Pairs Trading
& Mean Reversion
Stocks, Indices & ETFs
In this course, students will learn about portfolio optimization, and financial securities formed by stocks such as market
indices, vanilla ETFs, and smart beta ETFs.
Course 3
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 6
Lesson 1
Stocks, Indices & Funds
Lesson 2
ETFs
Lesson 3
Portfolio Risk & Return
Lesson 4
Portfolio Optimization
Smart Beta & Portfolio Optimization
In this project, learners will create two portfolios utilizing smart beta methodology and optimization.
Learners will evaluate the performance of the portfolios by calculating tracking errors. Learners will also
calculate the turnover of their portfolio and find the best timing to rebalance. Learners will come up with
the portfolio weights by analyzing fundamental data and by quadratic programming.
Course Project
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 7
Factor Investing & Alpha Research
In this course, you will learn about alpha factors and risk factors, and construct a portfolio with advanced portfolio
optimization techniques.
Multi-Factor Model
In this project, learners will research and generate multiple alpha factors. Then they will apply various
techniques to evaluate the performance of their alpha factors and learn to pick the best ones for their
portfolio. Learners will formulate an advanced portfolio optimization problem by working with constraints
such as risk models, leverage, market neutrality and limits on factor exposures.
Course Project
Course 4
Lesson 1
Factors Models of Returns
Lesson 2
Risk Factor Models
Lesson 3
Alpha Factors
Lesson 4
Advanced Portfolio Optimization
with Risk & Alpha Factors Models
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 8
Sentiment Analysis with Natural Language
Processing
In this course, students will learn the fundamentals of text processing and use them to analyze corporate filings and generate
sentiment-based trading signals.
Sentiment Analysis using NLP
In this project, learners will apply natural language processing on corporate filings, such as 10Q and 10K
statements, from cleaning data and text processing, to feature extraction and modeling. Learners will utilize
bag-of-words and TF-IDF to generate company-specific sentiments. Based on the sentiments, learners will
decide which company to invest in and the optimal time to buy or sell.
Course Project
Course 5
Lesson 1
Intro to Natural Language Processing
Lesson 2
Text Processing
Lesson 3
Feature Extraction
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 9
Lesson 4
Financial Statements
Lesson 5
Basic NLP Analysis
Advanced Natural Language
Processing with Deep Learning
In this course, learners will get to know how deep learning is applied in quantitative analysis and get to use recurrent neural
networks (RNN) and long short-term memory networks (LSTM) to generate trading signals.
Sentiment Analysis with Neural Networks
In this project, learners will build deep neural networks to process and interpret news data. They will also play
with different ways of embedding words into vectors. Learners will construct and train LSTM networks for
sentiment classification. Learners will run backtests and apply the models to news data for signal generation.
Course Project
Course 6
Lesson 1
Introduction to Neural Networks
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 10
Combining Multiple Signals
In this course, students will learn about advanced techniques to select and combine the factors that they’ve generated from
both alternative data and market data.
Course 7
Lesson 2
Training Neural Networks
Lesson 3
Deep Learning with PyTorch
Lesson 4
Recurrent Neural Networks
Lesson 5
Embeddings & Word2Vec
Lesson 6
Sentiment Prediction RNN
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 11
Lesson 1
Overview
Lesson 2
Decision Trees
Lesson 3
Model Testing & Evaluation
Lesson 4
Random Forests
Lesson 5
Feature Engineering
Lesson 6
Overlapping Labels
Lesson 7
Feature Importance
Combining Signals for Enhanced Alpha
In this project, learners will combine signals on a random forest for enhanced alpha. While implementing
this, learners will have to solve the problem of overlapping samples. For the dataset, we’ll be using the end
of day from Quotemedia and sector data from Sharadar.
Course Project
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 12
Simulating Trades with Historical Data
In this project, learners will build a fairly realistic backtester that uses the Barra data. The backtester will perform portfolio
optimization that includes transaction costs, and learners will implement it with computational efficiency in mind, to allow
for a reasonably fast backtest. Learners will also use performance attribution to identify the major rivers of their portfolio’s
profit-and-loss (PnL). Learners will have the option to modify and customize the backtest as well.
Backtesting
In this project, learners will combine signals on a random forest for enhanced alpha. While implementing
this, learners will have to solve the problem of overlapping samples. For the dataset, we’ll be using the end
of day from Quotemedia and sector data from Sharadar.
Course Project
Course 8
Lesson 1
Intro to Backtesting
Lesson 2
Optimization with Transaction Costs
Lesson 3
Attribution
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 13
Brok Bucholtz
Instructor
Brok has more than 5 years of software engineering experience from companies like
Optimal Blue. Brok has built Udacity projects for the Self-Driving Car, Deep Learning, and AI
Nanodegree programs.
Cindy Lin
Curriculum Lead
Cindy is a quantitative analyst with experience working for financial institutions such as Bank of
America, Merrill Lynch, Morgan Stanley, and Ping An Securities. She has an MS in computational
finance from Carnegie Mellon University.
Eddy Shyu
Instructor
Eddy has worked at BlackRock, Thomson Reuters, and Morgan Stanley, and has an MS in
financial engineering from HEC Lausanne. Eddy taught data analytics at UC Berkeley and
contributed to Udacity’s Self-Driving Car program.
Luis Serrano
Instructor
Luis was formerly a machine learning Engineer at Google. He holds a PhD in mathematics from
the University of Michigan, and a postdoctoral fellowship at the University of Quebec at Montreal.
Meet your instructors.
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 14
Parnian Barekatain
Instructor
Parnian is a self-taught AI programmer and researcher. Previously, she interned at OpenAI on
multi-agent reinforcement learning and organized the first OpenAI hackathon. She also runs a
ShannonLabs fellowship to support the next generation of independent researchers.
Arpan Chakraborty
Instructor
Arpan is a computer scientist with a PhD from North Carolina State University. He teaches at
Georgia Tech (within the Master of Computer Science program), and is a coauthor of the book
Practical Graph Mining with R.
Elizabeth Otto Hamel
Instructor
Elizabeth received her PhD in applied physics from Stanford University, where she used
optical and analytical techniques to study activity patterns of large ensembles of neurons. She
formerly taught data science at The Data Incubator.
Juan Delgado
Instructor
Juan is a computational physicist with a master’s in astronomy. He is finishing his PhD in
biophysics. He previously worked at NASA developing space instruments and writing software to
analyze large amounts of scientific data using machine learning techniques.
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 15
Mat Leonard
Instructor
Mat is a former physicist, research neuroscientist, and data scientist. He completed his PhD
and postdoctoral fellowship at the University of California, Berkeley.
Cezanne Camacho
Curriculum Lead
Cezanne is a machine learning educator with a master’s in electrical engineering from Stanford
University. As a former researcher in genomics and biomedical imaging, she’s applied machine
learning to medical diagnostic applications.
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 16
Udacity’s learning
experience
Knowledge
Find answers to your questions with Knowledge,
our proprietary wiki. Search questions asked by
other students, connect with technical mentors,
and discover how to solve the challenges that
you encounter.
Workspaces
See your code in action. Check the output and
quality of your code by running it on interactive
workspaces that are integrated into the platform.
Quizzes
Auto-graded quizzes strengthen comprehension.
Learners can return to lessons at any time during
the course to refresh concepts.
Custom Study Plans
Create a personalized study plan that fits your
individual needs. Utilize this plan to keep track of
movement toward your overall goal.
Progress Tracker
Take advantage of milestone reminders to stay
on schedule and complete your program.
Hands-on Projects
Open-ended, experiential projects are designed
to reflect actual workplace challenges. They aren’t
just multiple choice questions or step-by-step
guides, but instead require critical thinking.
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 17
Our proven approach for building
job-ready digital skills.
Personal Career Services
Empower job-readiness.
• Access to a Github portfolio review that can give you an edge by highlighting your
strengths, and demonstrating your value to employers.*
• Get help optimizing your LinkedIn and establishing your personal brand so your profile
ranks higher in searches by recruiters and hiring managers.
Experienced Project Reviewers
Verify skills mastery.
• Personalized project feedback and critique includes line-by-line code review from
skilled practitioners with an average turnaround time of 1.1 hours.
• Project review cycle creates a feedback loop with multiple opportunities for
improvement—until the concept is mastered.
• Project reviewers leverage industry best practices and provide pro tips.
Technical Mentor Support
24/7 support unblocks learning.
• Learning accelerates as skilled mentors identify areas of achievement and potential
for growth.
• Unlimited access to mentors means help arrives when it’s needed most.
• 2 hr or less average question response time assures that skills development stays on track.
Mentor Network
Highly vetted for effectiveness.
• Mentors must complete a 5-step hiring process to join Udacity’s selective network.
• After passing an objective and situational assessment, mentors must demonstrate
communication and behavioral fit for a mentorship role.
• Mentors work across more than 30 different industries and often complete a Nanodegree
program themselves.
*Applies to select Nanodegree programs only.
Learn more at
www.udacity.com/online-learning-for-individuals
→
12.02.22 | V1.0
| 13,785
|
Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf
|
ALSO AVAILABLE
Acknowledgments
In writing this book I have been taken on another wonderful and
unique journey. Not only have I discovered more delicious dishes, I
have also learnt so much more about the rich history and culture of
colonial Vietnam. I am always amazed and appreciative as to where the
love of food has taken me.
Indochine would not have been possible without the love and support from
four very special people:
My mum and dad, who scouted all the wet markets of Vietnam in search of
the freshest produce so we could cook and shoot each recipe.
My beautiful loving partner, Suzanna Boyd, who keeps wowing me with
her talents in photography, design and, now, food styling! I would have
been absolutely lost without you.
Alan Benson, you are incredible. Your photography is truly stunning and
you seem to create these amazing images with such grace. I thank you for
your professionalism and great friendship.
Much respects to the publishing team of Kylie Walker, Hugh Ford, Kim
Rowney, Leanne Kitchen and Livia Caiazzo.
Big hugs to the entire Red Lantern Family; without your dedication, passion
and hard work, I would not have found the time to complete this book. I
thank you.
To my wonderful family in France, thank you all so much for sharing your
knowledge and love for French–Vietnamese cuisine and culture.
Thank you also to all the cooks, restaurateurs, hoteliers and friends in
Vietnam who were so generous with their time and knowledge; and lastly,
thank you to Vietnam Airlines for your continuous support.
This book is for my ever-supportive family: Cuc Phuong, Lap, Pauline, Lewis and Leroy
Nguyen.
Two wise men of Hanoi
THERE’S NOT A BREATH OF WIND THIS morning and the jade-
coloured waters of Hoan Kiem Lake are mirror flat. A motorbike pulls up in
front of me; the young driver is selling chilled green young coconuts. I give
him 10 000 dong (AUD 50 cents), he chops the top off with a large cleaver
and then hands me the coconut. I sit down and sip on my refreshing juice
and watch the world go by.
I notice two elderly men, smartly dressed and wearing black berets, taking
a stroll, the elegant bamboo walking sticks in their hands seemingly more for
show than necessity. They stroke their long silver beards as they walk,
nodding to each other in agreement as they talk. All the activity around me
seems to stop as I watch these two men. They stop at a cart selling fresh soy
bean milk, close enough for me to hear that they are not speaking
Vietnamese but fluent French.
It is not often that I approach strangers and ask to join them for a coffee,
but on this particular day I feel so compelled to talk to these men, that this is
exactly what I do.
‘Xin chao,’ I say a little nervously as I tentatively walk towards them.
‘Bonjour,’ they reply.
I can’t speak French, so I continue in Vietnamese and ask if I can join
them. They accept, so I order three Vietnamese iced coffees and ask them
how they both came to learn the French language so well.
‘We both went to French schools,’ one of the men explains. ‘When the
French occupied Vietnam, they divided it into three different ‘countries’, all
with different administrative regions; the north was called Tonkin, the centre
was Annam and the south, Cochin China. Along with Laos and Cambodia,
Vietnam became part of French Indochina, or Indochine as it is often called.
‘Both our parents worked for the French, so we were given a French
education. We are old school friends; we’re both in our late eighties now and
many of our friends have passed, so we make sure we catch up every
morning for our walk. Afterwards we usually head to our friend’s charcuterie
store to buy freshly baked baguettes and pâté for our families.’
Baguettes and pâté… The French had such a profound impact on the
Vietnamese way of life yet I’ve never stopped to really consider the culinary
legacy they left behind, or how much influence it has had on my own and
other Vietnamese families’ cooking techniques. I explain that I’ve only ever
had a vague notion of this period of French occupation, that it lasted from
1862 to 1954, but that I’ve never delved deeper into it.
As I sit in the park, drinking iced coffee and listening to two old men
telling the stories of their youth, I realise a door is opening for me, that the
seed of a new adventure has been planted. From that very moment, I commit
to spending the next month travelling through Vietnam to discover how the
French influenced what the Vietnamese cook and eat today, and how the
French presence was felt in daily life and if it continues to do so. I’m barely
able to contain my excitement as I tell them my plans.
One of the men puts a calming hand on my shoulder. ‘Begin your journey
first by simply walking through the old streets of central Hanoi,’ he tells me.
‘And as you walk, don’t always just look straight ahead but be sure to look
up!’
As they send me on my way, I think how it is always the lives and stories
of the people I meet who give such depth and heart to my research on
Vietnam’s culinary arts. I have a renewed spring in my step, and I have those
two wise gentle men of Hanoi to thank for that.
CONTENTS
Cover
Also Available
Title Page
Acknowledgments
Hanoi
Dalat
Saigon
France
Basics
Glossary
Index
Copyright
List of Recipes
Hanoi beef soft noodle rolls
Duck à l’orange
Slow–cooked oxtail and beef brisket in aromatic spices
Chargrilled jumbo garlic prawns with green papaya
Chargrilled pork skewers in Vietnamese baguette
Beef sirloin wok–tossed with garlic and green peppercorns
Crab steamed in beer
Crispy frogs’ legs
Beef noodle soup
Pan–fried cinnamon prawns
Chicken and pork liver pâté
Red braised pork belly
Steamed Murray cod with passionfruit sauce
Meringue et passion
Fried chocolate truffles with pink pepper
IT’S 5.30 AM; IT’S MUGGY BUT STILL BEARABLE, AND I’m
slouched against the front gates of Lenin Park, not fully awake. Why am I
here? I had to ask myself the same question as I stumbled bleary eyed out of
bed this morning, but I’m here on good advice.
‘No visit to Hanoi is complete without checking out Lenin Park,’ my
friend told me. ‘But be sure to get there early — it’s all over by 7.30 am.’
I can’t believe how busy it is; the sun is hardly up and already there’s a
bottleneck getting into the front gate! The entrance is lined with sacks of
freshly steamed corn sitting atop old bicycles, each cob selling for about
AUD 25 cents. Morning joggers grab one on their way into the park for a
quick, healthy breakfast.
As I walk through the gates it’s almost like entering a different world, a
tranquil oasis in the midst of this busy, hectic city. I’m taken aback by the
sheer size of this great open space; magnificent aged trees tower over the
large central lake, creating much-needed cooling shade. People are jam-
packed in all corners of the park; both young and old are jogging, stretching,
practising tai chi and martial arts, and playing cane ball and shuttlecock. The
atmosphere is almost festival like, so much so that the buzz in the air soon
snaps me out of my soporific state.
I’m drawn to some pop music blaring from a set of speakers in the western
corner of the park. I’m sure it’s a song from Modern Talking, a Europop
band from Germany that was popular in the early eighties. Why they became
so popular within Vietnamese circles around the world, I really don’t know. I
remember my brother Lewis being such a fan, dressing like them and
playing their songs over and over again.
I arrive in time to catch the quirky sight of thirty or so men and women, all
over the age of fifty, strutting their stuff to the beat, doing the cha-cha-cha,
salsa and the lambada. The dancers are assembled in small groups, taking
their cues from each dance leader, and I can’t help but laugh with joy at such
a sight. I take a few photos and they begin to gravitate towards my camera,
dancing even harder with more hip action and sass. I cheer them on and they
love it!
As hard as it is to draw myself away from them, I continue my walk, this
time in search of something to appease my growling stomach. As I know
only too well, where there are people there are food carts, but I have to be
quick because they’ll soon pack up and go home. The locals come here at
the crack of dawn when it is cool, they do their exercise, have their breakfast
and then head off to work. There are noodle soups, tofu and sticky rice on
offer — a perfect start to the day.
For fifty years this enormous stone building
showcased French power, a political statement
symbolising French rule over Vietnam’s oldest
city.
Breakfast finished, I leave the park. Time has passed quickly and already
it’s peak hour. A swarm of motorbikes buzz past me, and away from the
cooling shade of the trees, I really feel the heat beginning to kick in. I walk
towards town and arrive in an area known as the French Quarter. I stop
smack bang in the middle of a busy intersection on Trang Tien Street and
look up to see a building that I have seen many times before, but have
always walked past, never thinking to stop or look up and admire its
grandeur.
It is the Hanoi Opera House, one of the city’s most striking landmarks. The
Opera House was completed in 1911, and is often referred to as ‘little
Garnier’ because it was built as a small-scale replica of the Opera House in
Paris, designed by Charles Garnier. I enter the building through a grand
entrance and then walk up ornate stairs, admiring the massive gilt-framed
mirrors, luxurious red suede curtains and the Art Nouveau design on the
walls and on the high domed ceiling. I feel like I am in Europe.
Keen to see more French colonial architecture I move on a few blocks to
Ngo Quyen Street where I find the Presidential Palace designed by French
architect Auguste-Henri Vildieu in 1895 as the headquarters for the French
Governor-General of Indochina. For fifty years this enormous stone building
showcased French power, a political statement symbolising French rule over
Vietnam’s oldest city. When Vietnam gained independence from France in
1954, Ho Chi Minh famously refused to live in the main palace, choosing
instead to live in a modest cottage out the back. Today the palace serves as a
strong reminder of French colonial rule, and it is where the Vietnamese
government entertains and houses their official guests.
Standing at the base of its magnificent staircase, looking up at its freshly
painted green French shutters and its decorative wrought-iron glass
porchway, I begin to think about what life must have been like during French
colonial rule. The French may have left Vietnam over fifty years ago, but
they certainly changed a nation in many ways.
Madame Van at the Metropole
A VINTAGE CITROËN TRACTION PULLS UP IN THE sweeping
entrance of a grand building. The doorman, wearing a black suit and white
gloves, opens the car door and helps his guests out, leaving their Louis
Vuitton suitcases for the porter. He ushers them inside where they are
greeted by elegant female hosts dressed in traditional ao dai. I can’t help but
feel that I’ve just witnessed a scene from the cult film, Indochine. I cross the
road to take a closer look.
As I enter the legendary Sofitel Metropole, I feel as though I have slipped
back in time. Built at the turn of the nineteenth century, this French colonial
hotel oozes the nostalgic flair and charm of a bygone era, with its wood
panelling, French doors, beautifully crafted furniture and low ceiling fans.
As captivated as I am by the lobby, I naturally gravitate towards the
restaurant. A long–time favourite for the city’s elite, Le Beaulieu Restaurant
is renowned for its fine French food and magnificent old–world wines.
The restaurant menu reads well: chicken cooked in red wine; carved leg of
lamb with potato purée; roasted lobster with garlic butter and fresh pumpkin
mousse; slow–cooked lamb shanks with white beans and honey roasted
carrots…
‘Can I help you?’ the restaurant manager asks.
I briefly tell him of my mission and ask if he knows much about French–
inspired Vietnamese dishes and if the restaurant serves such food.
He clicks his fingers and says in a charming French accent, ‘I have got just
the right person for you. Please take a seat and wait a moment.’
He returns a few minutes later, holding the hand of a chef, enthusiastically
leading her towards me.
‘This is Madame Van,’ he says. ‘She has been a chef here for almost
twenty years and she knows everything about French–Vietnamese cuisine.’
I introduce myself to her and ask her to tell me a little about the hotel, how
she came to be a chef here, and if she can give me some insight into the
French influence on Vietnamese cooking.
Madame Van speaks in a very clear, soft voice. She sits upright, the palms
of her hands neatly placed on her knees. She speaks to me in English…
‘The hotel was built in 1901 and as soon as it opened its doors it became the
place to stay for the colonial society, heads of state, ambassadors, famous
writers, actors and the well–to–do. Well–known guests included Charlie
Chaplin, Somerset Maugham and Graham Greene, who wrote most of The
Quiet American while staying here. So when I got a job offer here, I was so
excited. Initially I wasn’t employed as a chef, but as a French interpreter. I
majored in French at university and my job was to translate the cooking
instructions and techniques from the French chefs for the local Vietnamese
cooks. Not many Vietnamese spoke any English or French back then, but
even with my perfect French and Vietnamese, it was still quite difficult for
me to verbally explain these techniques and recipes to the Vietnamese. So I
ended up practising the recipes myself so I could show the chefs how to
make the dishes, step by step. This made my job so much easier, but I
actually ended up being able to cook the dishes so well that the hotel
scrapped the interpreter role and gave me a job as head chef.’
I majored in French at university and my job
was to translate the cooking instructions and
techniques from the French chefs for the local
Vietnamese cooks.
I am so impressed with her achievements and blown away by her talent.
She tells me that her cooking career has taken her to over ten countries,
allowing her to showcase Vietnamese cuisine to the world. I ask her what
dishes she cooks that she thinks may have borrowed ideas from the French.
‘There are so many,’ she says. ‘Take vit nau cam for example, which is
very similar to duck à l’orange. The Vietnamese traditionally only ate duck
boiled or in noodle soups, but now we grill it, roast or flash–fry it. When we
made stocks, we used to add uncooked vegetables for a clear soup, but now,
for our beef broth in particular, we chargrill or roast the vegetables before we
add them to the pot — this is a typical French technique.
‘There is a dish that I cook often, bo sot vang, which is beef cooked in rice
wine. The Vietnamese never used to braise their meats in wine, but now we
even use red wine in our cooking. Today in the streets of Hanoi you can find
ladies selling pho sot vang, beef noodle soup in a red wine broth. And did
you know that before the French came to Vietnam, the Vietnamese people
hardly ever ate beef or buffalo? The French arrived and saw an abundance of
cattle and buffaloes in the fields and wondered why we didn’t eat them. We
considered these animals as working animals; they ploughed the rice fields
for us and thus helped to provide our staple — rice. But the French
eventually had their way and, sure enough, beef soon became the much–
loved meat it is now.’
We talk some more, then it’s time for me to leave. I feel quite
overwhelmed with how much I’ve learnt in such a short time. Madame Van
scribbles in my notebook the name of a place where I might find some good
street food, quickly says her goodbyes and returns to the kitchen. I glance at
what she’s written. It simply says ‘corner of Hang Cot, under the railway
bridge’. I tuck it into my pocket — a little food–discovery adventure awaits.
Hanoi beef soft noodle rolls
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED STARTER
I was so excited when I discovered this Hanoian dish.
It is pure genius — just like a beef pho but rolled into
noodles. When buying fresh rice noodle sheets, make
sure they are at room temperature and not
refrigerated, as they need to be soft to roll well. If
they are cold, they will simply break into pieces.
INGREDIENTS
300 g (10½ oz) beef fillet, very thinly sliced (1 mm/1/16 inch thick)
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) fresh flat rice noodle sheets (20 x 10 cm/8 x 4 inches)
1 bunch Asian basil
1 bunch sawtooth coriander
1 bunch rice paddy herb
2 long red chillies, julienned
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) dipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham)
MARINADE
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
pinch of salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 lemongrass stem, white part only, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 red Asian shallots, finely chopped
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
½ teaspoon sesame oil
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
METHOD
To make the marinade, combine the fish sauce, sugar, salt and pepper in a
mixing bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the lemongrass, garlic,
shallots, sesame seeds, sesame oil and vegetable oil and mix well. Add the
beef and turn to coat in the marinade, then cover and set aside at room
temperature for 20 minutes.
Heat a frying pan or chargrill pan over medium heat. Working in two
batches, add the beef and sear for about 30 seconds on each side, or until
browned. The beef should be cooked to medium.
Once all the beef is cooked, place a rice noodle sheet on a chopping board,
with the shorter end closest to you. Now place some Asian basil leaves,
sawtooth coriander leaves and a piece of beef along the base of the rice
noodle sheet. Place a stem of rice paddy herb and a piece of chilli on top,
positioning them so they are sticking out of the roll a little. Fold the rice
noodle sheet up to enclose the herbs and beef, and continue to roll towards
the top to form a nice tight roll. Repeat this process for the rest of the rice
noodle sheets. Serve with the dipping fish sauce.
Duck à l’orange
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
This Vietnamese adaptation of the classic French dish
is amazingly moreish, and I actually prefer it to the
traditional version. Try to source fresh young coconut
water for this recipe, because the tinned variety has a
bit of added sugar, which will make the dish far too
sweet.
INGREDIENTS
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) whole duck
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 red Asian shallots, chopped
6 garlic cloves, chopped
2 lemongrass stems, white part only, bruised
2 star anise
2 cinnamon sticks
¼ teaspoon five–spice
juice of 5 oranges
grated zest of 1 orange
2 tablespoons shaoxing rice wine
3 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
700 ml (24 fl oz) young coconut water (approximately)
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
METHOD
To chop the duck into quarters, use poultry scissors or a large sharp knife to
cut down each side of the backbone, then remove and discard the backbone.
Remove the legs by cutting through the thigh joint, then cut the breast in half
lengthways through the breastbone. Rub the duck pieces with salt.
Heat a large frying pan over medium heat, then add the oil and sear the
duck, skin side down first, for 3 minutes on each side, or until browned.
Remove the duck from the pan and set aside. Drain the fat from the pan,
leaving about 2 tablespoons in the pan.
Return the duck to the pan again over medium heat. Add the shallots,
garlic, lemongrass, star anise, cinnamon and five–spice and cook for 3
minutes, or until fragrant. Add the orange juice, orange zest, rice wine, fish
sauce, sugar, pepper and enough coconut water to cover the duck. Bring to
the boil, then reduce to a low simmer. Cover the pan and cook for 2 hours, or
until the duck is tender. Transfer the duck to a serving platter.
Bring the liquid in the pan to the boil and cook for 10 minutes to reduce
the sauce. Pour the sauce over the duck and garnish with the star anise and
cinnamon sticks. Serve with baguettes.
Thirty-six streets and lost
I ALWAYS GET LOST IN THE CONFUSING NARROW STREETS
and lanes of the Old Quarter, but this is often when I discover new things
and different street foods. I glance at my map, but quickly fold it up again as
I’m not very good with maps either, so I randomly pick a direction and start
walking.
The Old Quarter is just north of Hoan Kiem Lake, and it is a completely
different experience walking around here compared to the French Quarter.
It’s chaotic; the streets pulsate with life, and you find yourself having to
walk on the narrow roads, dodging traffic, because the footpaths are
crammed with street stalls and parked motorbikes. I guess this is the main
reason why I never have the chance to ‘Look Up’ as I’m walking, but this
time I will — but with great caution.
Hanoi has had various names throughout its long history: Tong Binh, Dai
La, Ke Cho, Dong Do, Dong Quan and Thang Long before it was given the
name Hanoi (meaning ‘within the river’) by King Minh Mang in 1831. As
the names of the city evolved, so too did the architecture of the Old Quarter,
which today still reflects its rich and eclectic past as a great trading city, with
some ancient buildings and pagodas dating back to ancient Chinese
dynasties.
Truong Dinh Tuyen and his wife
The Old Quarter is the historic heart of Hanoi, home to thousands of years
of history. Hanoi sits on the right bank of the Red River, so named for its
reddish-brown colour, but the river once ran through the city centre, down
canals and winding waterways, which were built to allow cargo boats better
access to the city. Later, the French colonists filled in the canals, creating a
network of winding streets known as the ‘thirty-six traditional handicraft
streets’.
If you have been to the Old Quarter you will notice that most streets start
with ‘Hang’, which doesn’t mean ‘street’ as you would expect, but actually
means ‘merchandise’, as each is usually named after the commodity that was
once sold there. Still today, these streets retain their French translations.
There’s Hang Bong (Rue du Coton), which sells cotton; Hang Bac (Rue des
Changeurs), selling silver; Hang Duong (Rue du Sucre), selling sugar; and
Hang Non (Rue des Chapeaux), selling hats.
I come across a street called Cha Ca, which translates to ‘fried fish’, and
sure enough almost all the restaurants on this street serve cha ca, a
traditional Hanoian dish of snakehead fish or catfish marinated in turmeric
and dill, cooked at the table and served with soft vermicelli noodles.
I am stopped in my tracks by a group of French people who walk past me
and into one of the cha ca restaurants. An elderly Vietnamese man at the
door greets them in French, which immediately grabs my attention. I enter
the restaurant and wait to be escorted to a table, then take a seat and watch
for a chance to engage the old man in a chat. I order the local speciality.
Out comes a clay brazier with burning coal and a plate of bite-sized
marinated catfish, deep orange in colour from the turmeric; a platter filled
with vibrant fresh dill, spring onions, bean sprouts and chilli; a bowl of
fluffy vermicelli noodles; some roasted peanuts and some nuoc cham, for
dipping. I am given a pan and told to start cooking. The fish is already
partially cooked so I’m really only finishing it off in the pan. I throw the fish
in, the oil sizzles and splatters all over the table then, when it’s almost done,
I throw in the dill. I pile some noodles into my bowl, add the fish, some
fresh herbs, then all the toppings. I drizzle over the nuoc cham, mix it all
together and eat.
Hanoi’s Old Quarter
Wow! The dish has everything: great colours, wonderful textures, varying
temperatures and incredible contrasting flavours. The dill is abundant but
subtle and the turmeric and galangal are very well balanced — not
overpowering at all. This dish may well become one of my favourite
Hanoian dishes.
The old man brings me some mam tom, a shrimp paste dipping sauce,
which he says adds more depth to the dish. He sits down next to me while I
eat and we begin to chat.
His name is Truong Dinh Tuyen and he was born in 1923. Quite tall for a
Vietnamese and very handsome, Tuyen is still strong and nimble for his age,
and has a smile that warms the room. He tells me that this recipe is almost a
hundred years old and has been passed down from generation to generation.
‘When I was a boy, we used to serve this dish a little differently,’ he says.
‘We served the fish on large trays on bamboo skewers; you could eat as
many as you wanted. At the end of the meal I would count the empty
skewers then charge accordingly.’
This got me thinking about the possible French origins of the dish. Usually
Vietnamese eat fish in cutlets, with bones and all to savour the sweetness; it
wasn’t typically Vietnamese to fillet the fish or pan-fry it — this seemed
more like something the French would do.
‘So is this dish influenced by the French?’ I ask.
He thinks for a minute then replies, ‘No, I don’t believe so. They may have
possibly influenced the way we eat it now, but it has always been a Hanoian
dish. What I do know for sure is that the French love to eat this dish in
winter; it has been a favourite of theirs for over fifty years.’
Hanoi’s Old Quarter
I ask about dill and how that came to be used, as dill is native to Europe,
not something used in traditional Vietnamese cooking.
Mr Tuyen’s daughter rushes over and says sternly, ‘This dish is not French,
it is Vietnamese! Come in here, I’ll show you!’ She takes my hand and pulls
me into her kitchen.
‘This is catfish, straight from the strong currents of the Red River, which is
why the flesh is lean and firm. I clean the fish, blanch it in boiling water for
a few seconds, then cut it into chunks. Our secret family marinade is a
mixture of turmeric, galangal, spring onions, red shallots and shrimp paste. I
cut the fish into chunks so I can fit it between bamboo sticks; no other
reason. I then chargrill it over special charcoal that I buy from Huong
Pagoda. It’s a charcoal that does not smoke and it imparts a much better
flavour. I take the fish off the heat when it is almost cooked, then take it out
to the customers to finish off the cooking themselves. Now, I don’t think
there is anything French in that, do you?’
Mr Tuyen and his family
I sensed that I might have offended Mr Tuyen’s daughter, as she is quite
adamant that the cha ca dish was not influenced by the French at all — like
most Hanoians, she is so very proud of her culture and her regional dish.
However, the French did undoubtedly introduce dill into Vietnam, but
whether it was a French or Vietnamese person who first used dill in this dish,
we might never know.
Mr Tuyen secretly hands me a piece of paper with a name and phone
number on it.
‘This lady is an old schoolmate of mine. Give her a call; she has a great
knowledge of food. Tell her I sent you.’
Slow–cooked oxtail and beef brisket in
aromatic spices
SERVES 6–8 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
This is a great example of how the Vietnamese have
turned a traditional French stew into a classic
Vietnamese dish. There are many versions of bo kho
throughout Vietnam, and this one is the northern
version. I use sarsaparilla in this recipe as I find it
complements the star anise, but if you can’t find
sarsaparilla, use stout instead.
INGREDIENTS
3 star anise
2 cloves
1 piece of cassia bark
½ teaspoon five–spice
2 teaspoons shaoxing rice wine
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
170 ml (5½ fl oz/2/3 cup) sarsaparilla
700 g (1 lb 9 oz) beef brisket, cut into 5 x 2 cm (2 x ¾ inch) pieces
700 g (1 lb 9 oz) oxtail, washed
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 red Asian shallots, chopped, plus 4 extra, peeled and left whole
3 garlic cloves, chopped
4 tablespoons tomato paste (concentrated purée)
2 tablespoons annatto oil
2 litres (70 fl oz/8 cups) beef stock base for pho
250 g (9 oz) carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 handful Vietnamese basil leaves
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
METHOD
Heat a small frying pan over low heat and dry–roast the star anise, cloves
and cassia bark separately for 2–3 minutes, or until fragrant. Allow to cool,
then grind the spices using a mortar and pestle. Combine the ground spices
and the five–spice in a large mixing bowl, then add the rice wine, hoisin
sauce and sarsaparilla. Add the beef brisket and oxtail and mix well. Cover
and place in the fridge to marinate overnight.
Place a large wok over medium heat, then add the oil, chopped shallots and
garlic. Stir–fry for about 3 minutes, or until the shallots become translucent.
Working in two batches, add the beef brisket and increase the heat. Continue
to stir–fry until the meat is sealed on all sides. Remove to a large saucepan
or stockpot.
Add the oxtail, tomato paste and annatto oil to the wok and stir–fry for 4
minutes. Remove from the wok and add to the saucepan with the brisket.
Place the saucepan over medium heat. Add the stock and bring it all to the
boil, skimming any impurities off the surface, then lower the heat to a slow
simmer. Add the whole shallots and cook for a further 2 hours, or until the
meat is very tender. Once the beef is cooked, add the carrots and cook for a
further 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with the
Vietnamese basil. Serve with the baguettes.
The last of the Mohicans
I STEP ONTO THE STREET OUTSIDE MR TUYEN’S restaurant, the
number for his old friend on a piece of paper in my hand. I decide to call her
straight away. Her name is Delphine and she agrees to see me. She lives only
ten minutes away and I’m excited at the thought of soon meeting her.
I hurry down Thuoc Bac Street, breathing in aromatic wafts of ginseng,
cinnamon and dried ginger as I walk past the many Chinese herbal medicine
shops that line the street. It is insanely hot and my cap is dripping wet, but it
doesn’t bother me because I’m keen to get there.
Madame Delphine’s house is directly across the road from a stunning jade-
coloured lake called Thien Quang, on Nguyen Du Street. It is in the groovy
part of town, a well-to-do area dotted with funky cafés, modern restaurants
and brand-name stores. I note how appropriate it is that her house is next
door to an international clothing store called French Connection.
I press the button and seconds later the heavy door screeches open, then
slams loudly behind me as I walk up the narrow spiral metal stairs.
‘Xin chao,’ a woman’s voice calls out from a nearby room. ‘Madame
Delphine is expecting you.’
The housekeeper leads me into the house, pointing at my shoes to make
sure I take them off before entering. The room is dark, hot and musty; it is
bare except for a few wooden stools, a small electric fan and an altar table
with a few sticks of smoking cinnamon-scented incense. The walls are
covered in old black-and-white pictures, blanketed in a thick layer of dust. I
blow the dust off one to reveal a photograph of Ho Chi Minh sitting with a
family in that very room.
As I lean in to study the picture more closely, I’m a little startled by a soft
voice that speaks to me from across the room.
‘Welcome Luke, I am Delphine. I am pleased to meet you.’
I turn to see a woman’s silhouette sitting cross-legged on an oriental day
bed in the corner.
‘Open a few shutters and let some light in,’ she says.
The room fills with dust-speckled light and she reaches out to me.
Gripping both my hands tightly in hers, she runs her fingers across my
palms.
Madame Delphine’s parents
‘I can see that you are a good person with a very bright future,’ she says,
her fingers lightly tracing the lines in my palm. ‘You are young but you have
an old soul and you are always striving to learn more. Take a seat next to me,
Luke. Here, have some tea.’
She lets go of my hands and while she is busy pouring the tea, I sneak a
sideways glance at her. There is such a regal presence about her; she sits
with great posture and each of her movements is slow and considered. I look
at her short silver hair, kind almond eyes and her worn, petite hands.
She taps me on my thigh. ‘So what would you like to learn today my son?’
I tell her the story of my life, about how my family fled Vietnam in the late
seventies, arriving in Thailand, where I was born. I tell her about our life in
the refugee camp before coming to Australia, where I was raised. I talk
about how I have spent most of my life cooking and studying regional
Vietnamese food, travelling the country from north to south to discover age-
old recipes and cooking techniques.
‘I want to find out more,’ I explain. ‘I want to learn what life was like in
Vietnam during the colonial rule, what the Vietnamese used to eat then, what
the French brought over to this country and how they have influenced
Vietnamese cuisine. I can only learn this from people like yourself and your
friends such as Mr Tuyen, who lived through this period.’
‘Well it’s a good thing you are doing this now Luke, because Mr Tuyen
and I are ‘the last of the Mohicans’ — we might not be around for much
longer!’ She chuckles to herself then begins to tell me her story…
Madame Delphine’s family villa
‘My birth name is Ho Thi Thuy Tan. I was born in 1932 into a very noble
family. My grandparents were the king and queen of Tonkin and Annam. My
grandfather governed all of the northern areas and was the head of the largest
French college in Vietnam, called Albert Sarraut College, named after the
first French governor. This is where all my uncles, aunties, siblings, both my
parents and I were educated. We were taught only in the French language
and were all given French names — mine was Delphine.
‘My parents were arranged in marriage to each other at the age of eight,
which was quite normal back then. They both later became advisors to the
French, known as Vietnamese mandarins. Our whole family lived like the
French; we ate the same food they did, dressed like them, spoke their
language and were even given French citizenship. My parents travelled by
ship to Paris often, for two months at a time, to complete their masters and
doctorates in law.’
She stops and points to one of the photographs. ‘Believe it or not, those
men are all my great uncles, but they could be easily mistaken for being
French. We lived a very fortunate life, travelled all over Vietnam for
holidays, staying in one of the many villas we owned. But this all changed in
1945 when Ho Chi Minh and his National Liberation Committee called for
the August Revolution, declaring independence. This was the beginning of
the Franco-Viet Minh War. In 1954, the French eventually lost the nine-year
battle and were forced back to France, and many of my uncles and aunties
went with them.
‘Although we had lost all our possessions and all our homes, my parents
decided to stay in Hanoi to raise their children. I was already married, but
my husband and I were virtually penniless; we worked hard to pursue our
studies and get good jobs, so that we could give our own five children their
education. Today they are all doctors and lawyers living happily with their
own families in Europe.’
As Delphine is speaking, I look up again at all the photographs on the
wall; they really take me back to those colonial times. I feel very lucky to be
having this unique experience and I don’t want to leave, so I ask her if she
thinks cha ca, the fried fish dish of Hanoi, was inspired by the French.
‘Dill was definitely brought over by the French,’ she says. ‘So I guess any
Vietnamese dish with dill in it was influenced by the French in some way —
but that doesn’t mean the French created that dish. My grandfather, on one
of his trips back from Paris, brought a kohlrabi vegetable with him to Dalat.
It was he who introduced this vegetable to Vietnam. He loved the texture of
it and enjoyed eating it raw in salads or wok-tossed in a simple stir-fry.
You’ll be surprised as to just how many
traditional Vietnamese dishes have French roots
— you will have an amazing journey
discovering all this.
‘Take charcuterie, for example. There are countless stores in Hanoi still
selling these products. I go to a store in the Old Quarter particularly for their
pàté; that store has been there for over a hundred years. You also have all the
wonderful bakeries and patisseries, as well as the street food vendors selling
pork-filled baguettes. And don’t forget all our salads, which the Vietnamese
call xa lat; they are all dressed with various types of vinaigrettes, which are
typically French.’
I feel so honoured that I have met this wonderful and interesting woman.
Before I leave, she gives me the address of her favourite charcuterie shop,
then she sends me on my way.
Delphine’s great grandfather
Chargrilled jumbo garlic prawns with green
papaya
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
When chargrilling or deep–frying prawns, I always
leave the head and tail intact as I enjoy their crispy
texture. Please be adventurous and give it a go.
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
½ teaspoon sesame oil
2 tablespoons sugar
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped
6 raw jumbo prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined, heads and tails intact
1 green papaya, peeled and julienned
5 perilla leaves, sliced
5 Vietnamese mint leaves, sliced
5 mint leaves, sliced
1 tablespoon crushed roasted peanuts
1 tablespoon fried garlic
Vietnamese mint sprig, to garnish
METHOD
Combine the oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, garlic
and chilli in a mixing bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the prawns
and toss to coat in the marinade, then set aside at room temperature for 20
minutes.
In another mixing bowl, combine the green papaya, herbs, peanuts and
fried garlic. Set aside.
Drain the prawns, reserving the marinade. Place the marinade in a wok or
small saucepan and bring to the boil, then cook for 4 minutes until reduced
and slightly thickened.
Meanwhile, heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium–high heat.
Chargrill the prawns for 3–4 minutes on each side, basting the prawns with
the marinade every minute or so. Add the cooked prawns to the papaya
mixture, drizzle 2 tablespoons of the marinade into the bowl and toss all the
ingredients together. Transfer to a serving platter and garnish with the
Vietnamese mint.
Chargrilled pork skewers in Vietnamese
baguette
SERVES 6
There is an array of delectable fillings designed for
the Vietnamese baguette; this one is my new personal
favourite. Wandering around the small streets of old
Hanoi, I see ladies selling these pork-filled baguettes.
The smoky aromas coming from their chargrills lures
me in every time.
INGREDIENTS
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) pork neck
6 spring onions (scallions), white part only, sliced
4 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 Vietnamese baguettes, split
1 Lebanese (short) cucumber, sliced into batons
2 large handfuls coriander (cilantro) sprigs
sriracha hot chilli sauce, to serve
hoisin sauce, to serve
METHOD
Thinly slice the pork neck across the grain into 3 mm (1/8 inch) thick slices,
then set aside. Using a mortar and pestle, pound the spring onion to a fine
paste.
Combine the fish sauce, honey, sugar and pepper in a large mixing bowl,
stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the pork, spring onion paste and garlic.
Toss to coat the pork in the marinade, then pour the oil over the top. Cover
and place in the fridge to marinate for 2 hours, or overnight for a better
result.
Soak 12 bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes to prevent them burning.
Thread the pork onto the skewers. Heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to
medium–high heat and brush with some oil. Add the skewers in two batches
and chargrill for 2 minutes on each side, or until browned and cooked
through.
Place two pork skewers into a baguette, pull out the bamboo skewers, then
add some cucumber, coriander, chilli sauce and hoisin sauce, to taste. Repeat
with the remaining pork skewers.
Beef sirloin wok–tossed with garlic and green
peppercorns
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
When the French arrived in Vietnam, they were
surprised to see that the locals did not eat beef often,
as cows were regarded mainly as working animals.
This recipe is the Vietnamese version of the popular
French dish, pepper steak.
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon hot water
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon caster (superfine) sugar
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) beef sirloin, trimmed and cut into 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) dice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, crushed
½ small onion, cut into large dice
10 fresh green peppercorns (or use peppercorns in brine, drained)
50 g (1¾ oz) butter
pinch of salt
generous pinch of cracked black pepper
1 sprig fresh green peppercorns, to garnish
light soy sauce and sliced chilli, for dipping
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
METHOD
Combine the hot water, oyster sauce, sesame oil and sugar in a mixing bowl,
stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the beef and toss to coat well, then set
aside to marinate for 10 minutes. Remove the beef from the marinade and
drain well.
Place a wok over the highest heat until smoking hot. Drizzle the oil around
the top of the wok; the oil should ignite into flames, so take care. Add the
beef in batches and seal it on all sides, shaking and tossing the beef in the
wok. The beef should be charred and the wok flaming.
Add the garlic, onion, green peppercorns and butter to the wok and
continue to stir-fry for 4 minutes, constantly moving the ingredients around
in the wok with a wooden spoon. Add the salt and cracked black pepper,
then turn out onto a serving platter. Garnish with the sprig of green
peppercorns. Serve with a small bowl of soy sauce and sliced chilli for
dipping, and with baguettes.
Bikes, beer and the story of a nation
I’M ON THE LOOKOUT FOR A RIDE TO TAKE me back to my hotel.
Four motorbike taxis shout ‘Xe om, xe om,’ beckoning me to go with them.
One man grabs my arm in desperate need for business, so I show him the
address and he agrees to take me there, but then attempts to charge me triple
the usual price. I shake my head and walk away, and try to wave down a cab
instead. He takes the bait and quickly stops me, agreeing to my price. It
works every time! I hop on the back of his bike and secure my helmet.
‘Business is hard these days, you know,’ he says over his shoulder as he
revs up the bike. ‘Sometimes I spend hours in the scorching heat without
getting a fare. There are too many cab companies opening up in the city;
competition means they are getting cheaper, and they’re all air-conditioned,
too. How can I compete? Fuel just gets more and more expensive, and some
days I am left with only a few dollars in my pocket at the end of the day. I’ve
got five kids to feed!’
We arrive at the hotel and because I feel extremely guilty for haggling over
just a few bucks, I cave in and agree to give him his initial asking price. I ask
him if he’d like to join me for a coffee.
He introduces himself as Cuong and asks me where I’d been that day. I
excitedly tell him about my visit with Madame Delphine.
He looks at me, squinting his eyes with confusion. ‘Why are you so
interested in the French colonisation? Don’t you realise what they did to our
people? You talk as if they did wonderful things for our country and
introduced great Western ways to Vietnam. Well, you are wrong. In fact, the
establishment of the colonial administration created a huge burden for our
country. The costs of having French officials and military here were very
high and who do you think paid for all that? The Vietnamese people did —
my grandparents, your grandparents — with outrageously high taxes.
‘Now if you think that was criminal. In 1902 the French decided to
monopolise the making and selling of alcohol. They made drinking of
alcohol compulsory by law. Every village in Vietnam had to drink a set
amount of alcohol each year and, of course, the French made it illegal for
anyone to privately distil their own alcohol, something that has been part of
the Vietnamese way of life for many years. If you were caught distilling your
own, you would be imprisoned.
‘Once the French owned the alcohol market, they moved on to salt
production. The administration bought salt directly from the producers, and
then would sell it to the Vietnamese for triple the price. If that wasn’t
enough, the French then gained control of all the poppy fields and
encouraged the Vietnamese to smoke opium, resulting in a huge increase in
the number of Vietnamese who were addicted to this drug.
‘With alcohol, salt and opium sales and increasing high taxes, the colonial
administration’s income soared. All profits were taken back to France, while
the Vietnamese were exploited and treated like slaves, with millions dying
from starvation and malnutrition.’
He stops, trying to calm his emotions, then looks at me intently. ‘Now, do
you think all that was worth it, just to get some cooking tips off the French?’
Thankfully, the coffees arrive at that moment, giving me time to choose
my next words carefully. I explain to him that I realise that Vietnam has had
a very long history of war and hardships — ruled by China for a thousand
years, then the French for eighty years, and then the American War. These
tough times have shaped Vietnam into the country it is today; it has survived
and grown stronger, and has evolved into a hard-working nation with a fast-
growing economy. Look at all the different genres of art, music and theatre
that have been created in the last few centuries, the varying styles of
architecture just in Hanoi alone, and then there’s the fabulous food! And
look at what we are drinking right now — coffee, introduced by the French.
The Vietnamese people have taken all things
great from China, France and America and have
adapted them into their own culture.
Cuong shakes my hand and smiles. ‘I apologise if I got worked up,’ he
says. ‘All my ancestors have always experienced famine and poverty, many
were slaves to French rubber companies, some fought in the American War,
and some died at sea attempting to flee the country. Then, there’s me. I’m
almost fifty and I’m still only a motorbike taxi driver. But I should stop
being so bitter; at least my kids are all at school and my family eat well.’
He stands up to leave. ‘Come on, I’ll show you a place that you might find
interesting.’
We hop on his bike and ride through a tangled web of tiny streets and
narrow lanes, stopping at a busy little intersection on the corner of Luong
Ngoc Quyen and Ta Hien streets. We sit on miniature plastic stools, beside a
keg of beer with a small sign that reads, ‘Bia Hoi — 3000 dong’.
‘This place is known as Bia Hoi corner, and this is where I come most
days after work,’ he tells me. ‘Bia hoi means fresh beer, and I’m told that it’s
the cheapest beer in the world. I brought you here because I was thinking
about what you said about coffee and it being a large part of our culture.
Well, I think beer is too. Vietnam now has a huge beer drinking culture, and
I guess we owe that to the French. Take one of our most famous premium
beers in Vietnam, 333. This beer was actually introduced by the French
when they started a brewery in Ho Chi Minh in 1893, but then it was called
33. When the French got booted out, a Vietnamese company took over the
brewery and changed the name to 333.’
We drink a few beers together and watch as the street begins to fill with
people, both local Vietnamese and tourists, all keen to try this cheap beer. A
young backpacker stands up and shouts, ‘Beers are on me!’ Everybody claps
and cheers. Sixty beers and it cost him AUD 9.00, or 15 cents a glass.
For the price, the beer isn’t too bad. It’s low on alcohol and slightly
carbonated, as it spends very little time in the fermentation process, usually
going straight from brew tank to keg. Street vendors push their carts along
the street, selling grilled dried squid, green papaya and dried beef salad, and
pork skewers in crisp baguettes — the perfect drinking food.
There are so many Vietnamese dishes that are steamed in beer, cooked in
beer or have a beer sauce, that I figure if beer was introduced by the French,
then it was the French who influenced these very dishes. I voice my thoughts
to Cuong who shakes his head, has a bit of a giggle and continues to drink.
We sit on that crazy corner of the Old Quarter and share a few more beers
and many more stories. I go to pay but he pushes my hands away. It is
customary for him to pay as it was he who invited me. He wishes me all the
best on my journey of discovery through Vietnam.
Crab steamed in beer
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
After coffee and baguettes, beer is the next greatest
thing that the French introduced to Vietnam. Not only
has it become one of Vietnam’s favourite beverages,
but it has also become widely used in the kitchen for
cooking.
INGREDIENTS
4 raw blue swimmer crabs
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
6 garlic cloves, chopped
2 teaspoons sugar
pinch of salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
200 ml (7 fl oz) Asian beer
6 spring onions (scallions)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
50 g (1¾ oz) butter
1 onion, cut into wedges
4 red Asian shallots, chopped
METHOD
Remove the upper shell of the crab, pick off the gills, which look like little
fingers, and discard them. Clean the crab under running water and drain.
Place the crab on its stomach and chop the crab in half lengthways with a
heavy cleaver. Now chop each half into 4 pieces, chopping each piece
behind each leg. With the back of the cleaver, gently crack each claw (this
makes it easier to extract the meat). Repeat for all the crabs.
Combine the sesame oil, oyster sauce, fish sauce, 1 tablespoon of the
garlic, the sugar, salt and pepper in a large mixing bowl, stirring to dissolve
the sugar. Add the crabs and toss to coat in the marinade. Set aside to
marinate for 20 minutes.
Place the crabs in a large metal or bamboo steamer and cover with the lid.
Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water and steam
for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and pour the beer over the crabs, then cover
again and continue to steam for a further 10 minutes.
Trim the spring onions and then chop the white part into 4 cm (1½ inch)
lengths. Thinly slice the green part of 3 stems.
Heat a wok over high heat, then add the oil and butter, then the onion,
shallots, the remaining garlic and the white spring onion lengths. Stir-fry for
2 minutes until fragrant, then add the steamed crabs and wok-toss for a
further minute. Transfer to a serving platter and garnish with the spring
onion greens. Serve with Asian beer.
Crispy frogs’ legs
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons shaoxing rice wine
1 teaspoon sugar
pinch of salt and pepper
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) frogs’ legs
1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) vegetable oil, for deep-frying
50 g (1¾ oz/1/3 cup) potato starch
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 spring onion (scallion), thinly sliced
2 red Asian shallots, chopped
1 bird’s eye chilli, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, chopped
SALT AND PEPPER SEASONING MIX
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon five–spice
METHOD
Combine the rice wine, sugar, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl, stirring to
dissolve the sugar. Add the frogs’ legs and toss to coat in the marinade, then
cover and set aside at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the salt and pepper seasoning mix, combine the
ingredients in a bowl and set aside.
Heat the oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of
bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Remove the frogs’ legs
from the marinade and drain. Working in batches, dust the frogs’ legs with
the potato starch, shake off the excess starch, then add them a few at a time
in quick succession to the oil. Deep-fry for 3 minutes, or until lightly golden
and crisp, then carefully remove from the oil and place on kitchen paper to
drain.
Drain off all but 2 teaspoons of oil from the wok, then return the wok to
the heat. Add the butter, spring onion, shallots, chilli and garlic. Toss to
combine, then return the frogs’ legs to the wok. Continue to toss while
sprinkling over 2 teaspoons of the salt and pepper seasoning mix, or more to
taste. Serve immediately.
Hidden streets of Hanoi
THE SKY IS BLACK; THE MOON IS NOWHERE to be seen. I’m on
Nha Tho Street, which is strangely deserted. I stop in the middle of the
empty road and look up at St Joseph’s Cathedral, the oldest church in Hanoi,
towering above me. It was built in the late 1800s and was one of the first
buildings erected by the French colonists, who demolished an ancient
pagoda to do so. It is an eerie but spectacular gothic-looking structure. I see
why people call Hanoi ‘little Paris’ — St Joseph’s bears many similarities to
the Notre Dame, which it was intended to replicate.
At the end of a narrow lane, I notice the glow of burning charcoal and like
a moth to a flame, I’m drawn to its light.
A boy sits beside the fire, grilling whole shallots, garlic and ginger.
‘What is all this for?’ I ask him.
‘It’s for my mother’s pho broth. We have to prepare it now so it’s ready for
our noodle stall tomorrow morning. Come back at 6 am and it’ll be ready
then.’
I remember Madame Van from the Metropole telling me how Vietnamese
cooks have adapted to the French technique of chargrilling their vegetables
for their beef broths. I ask him if I can stay and watch.
He points to a small house nearby. ‘You’ll have to ask my mum.’
From the main street you’d never guess that this neighbourhood even
exists. The tiny hobbit-like houses with their doors in shades of light green,
pastel blue and purple surround a deep water well, shaded by several large
tamarind trees. I’m so happy that I’ve discovered this hidden gem.
At the house, an elderly lady squats on a concrete floor, slicing onions on a
wooden chopping block, while a teenage girl slices spring onions by the
bucket load. I tell them that I am a cook from Australia and ask if it’s okay if
I watch them cook their broth.
‘Sure thing!’ the older woman says, then the two look at each other and
burst into hysterical laughter; it’s quite unusual to meet a young Vietnamese
male who wants to learn how to cook street food. The older woman hands
me a tiny chopping board, a blunt rusty cleaver and a red plastic colander
full of fresh sirloin.
‘Start slicing!’ she says, trying her best to stifle her giggles.
Unfazed, I grab the tools and wedge myself in between them. Their home
is the smallest I’ve ever seen in Vietnam; it’s like a doll’s house — there is
barely enough room even for the three of us.
His mother wears a back brace, which she tells me she puts on as soon as
she wakes up. I tell her that crouching on the floor all day will only hurt her
back more, that she needs a work bench to prepare the food on. She looks
around her cramped house and tells me she has nowhere to put it.
‘I have been cooking this dish for over thirty years. I used to do all the
preparation myself, but now I need my children to help me. Nowadays my
back won’t allow me to even lift the pot onto the small burner.’
Her son returns with the blackened shallots, garlic and ginger. She takes
them from him and peels the skin, then thinly slices them.
‘Grilling these aromatic vegetables helps bring out maximum flavour and
aroma,’ she explains. ‘It brings out their natural sweetness and also imparts
great colour to the stock.’
Her son lifts a large pot onto a clay charcoal burner, his mother adds some
oxtail and beef brisket, then the chargrilled shallots, garlic and ginger, and a
spice bag filled with roasted cassia bark, cardamom, cloves, fennel seeds,
coriander seeds, peppercorns and star anise. The son fetches water from the
well then pours it in. She brings it to the boil, reduces the heat, then lets it
simmer, allowing it to release all of its magical aromas overnight while they
sleep.
Beef noodle soup
SERVES 8
INGREDIENTS
4 tablespoons salt
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) oxtail (chopped into 3 cm/1¼ inch pieces)
1 garlic bulb, unpeeled
4 large onions, unpeeled
150 g (5½ oz) ginger, unpeeled
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) beef bones
2 kg (4 lb 8 oz) beef brisket
185 ml (6 fl oz/¾ cup) fish sauce
80 g (2¾ oz) rock sugar
1.6 kg (3 lb 8 oz) fresh rice noodles, 1 cm (½ inch) wide (you will need
about 200 g/7 oz per person)
400 g (14 oz) trimmed sirloin, thinly sliced against the grain
4 spring onions (scallions), sliced
ground black pepper
coriander (cilantro) sprigs, to garnish
230 g (8 oz/2 cups) bean sprouts
1 bunch Asian basil
2 bird’s eye chillies, sliced
1 lime, cut into wedges
SPICE POUCH
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
2 teaspoons sichuan peppercorns
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
8 cloves
5 star anise
2 x 10 cm (4 inch) pieces of cassia bark
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
40 cm (16 inch) square muslin cloth
METHOD
Fill a large saucepan with cold water, add 3 tablespoons of the salt, then
submerge the oxtail in the water. Soak for 1 hour, then drain.
To make the spice pouch, dry-roast each ingredient separately in a frying
pan over medium–low heat, shaking the pan constantly, for 1–2 minutes, or
until fragrant. Cool, then coarsely grind using a mortar and pestle or electric
spice grinder. Add the ground spices to the muslin square and tie up tightly
in a knot. Set aside.
Heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium–high heat and grill the
unpeeled garlic bulb, onions and ginger, turning often, for 15 minutes, or
until all sides are blackened. Cool slightly then, when cool enough to handle,
peel off the blackened skins and discard them, and then roughly chop. By
doing this, the garlic, onion and ginger become sweet and fragrant, releasing
more flavour into the stock.
Put the oxtail, beef bones, brisket and 6 litres (210 fl oz) of cold water in a
stockpot and bring to the boil. While the stock is boiling, constantly skim
any impurities off the surface for 15 minutes (this will ensure a clean, clear
broth), then reduce the heat to a low simmer. Add the fish sauce, remaining 1
tablespoon of salt, rock sugar, garlic, onion, ginger and spice pouch. Cover
and simmer for 4 hours, or until the stock has reduced by a third. Strain the
stock through some muslin into another pan. Remove the brisket, set aside to
cool, then thinly slice. Skim any fat off the stock and discard it.
Divide the noodles into eight equal portions. Working with one portion at a
time, blanch them in boiling water for 20 seconds. Drain, then transfer to a
serving bowl. Place 3 or 4 slices of brisket on top of the noodles, followed
by 3 or 4 pieces of raw sirloin. Pour over the hot stock to cover the noodles
and beef.
Garnish each bowl with 1 tablespoon of sliced spring onion, a pinch of
pepper and a coriander sprig. At the table, add bean sprouts, Asian basil,
chilli and a squeeze of lime.
Pan–fried cinnamon prawns
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon oyster sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon red curry powder (I like to use Ayam brand)
300 g (10½ oz) raw large prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined, tails intact
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cm (¾ inch) piece of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
2 red Asian shallots, chopped
6 spring onions (scallions), cut into 5 cm (2 inch) lengths
1 long red chilli, sliced
steamed jasmine rice, to serve
METHOD
Combine the fish sauce, oyster sauce, sugar, cinnamon, cumin and curry
powder in a mixing bowl. Add the prawns and toss to coat in the marinade,
then cover and place in the fridge to marinate for 10 minutes.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Add the ginger, garlic and
shallots and fry for 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add the prawns and cook for
1 minute on each side. Add the spring onion and 2 tablespoons of water and
toss for a further minute. Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with the
chilli. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.
Mrs Chan’s 150-year-old charcuterie
store
I AM WALKING AIMLESSLY UP AND DOWN Hang Bong Street in
the scorching heat, and have been doing so for twenty minutes now,
desperately searching for Madame Delphine’s favourite charcuterie store.
I’m about ready to give up.
I gulp down some more water and pour the rest over my head, then watch
as steam rises from my shoulders. It’s then that I notice a little store across
the road, sandwiched between two handicraft stores, a queue twenty deep
curling out the front door. The sign above says ‘Quoc Huong’. Finally, I’ve
found it!
The counter is stacked with pork terrines wrapped and bound in banana
leaf, the shelves behind are filled with jars of pork floss and every type of
pickle imaginable. Open trays of mayonnaise, pork and chicken liver pàté
have wooden spatulas in them, perfect for scooping up as much as you need.
Some people stock up on whole terrines and containers of pàté, while others
are here for just a few steamed fish cakes or pieces of dried beef to snack on.
The store has charm and character, a real artisan feel to it.
Towards the back there is a cooking area, the benches lined with old
blackened ovens. Cane baskets and plastic colanders are piled high, with
containers of spices and ingredients scattered on any available floor space.
Woks set on portable gas stoves are his sing and simmering with their lids
on; I’m intrigued as to what is cooking beneath.
An elderly woman stands behind the counter, greeting each of her
customers by name. Her name is Mrs Chan and she proudly tells me that her
store is over 150 years old, a small family business passed down through
four generations. She introduces me to her two sons and three daughters.
There is such a gentle warmth in this room, and I can sense the passion that
each has for this wonderful store. Noticing my curiosity, the eldest daughter
tells me what’s cooking in the woks: it’s the family’s age-old recipe for dried
beef.
‘The beef is first marinated overnight in secret herbs and spices. It is then
cooked in a simmering stock for one hour. It is cooled then sliced super thin
and stir-fried in a dry wok for half an hour. After that we put it in the ovens
on low heat to dry for two hours, then toss it in a mixture of medicinal
herbs.’
She gives me a little piece to taste. Though it’s dried, it is still moist; the
texture is nice and chewy, with the perfect balance of saltiness and sweetness
and just the right amount of spice. She tells me that this isn’t the kind of
dried beef that is kept for months in the pantry, but is designed to be eaten
right away, put in green papaya salads or simply eaten as a snack, and
because of the medicinal herbs that are tossed through it, it’s also good for
sore throats.
Her mother passes me an old family photograph, giggling girlishly. ‘That’s
me when I was just a few years old,’ she says, pointing to the young girl in
the photo. ‘And the lady carrying me is my aunty. She is now 103 years old
and still going strong. See what eating good food can do for your health!’
I ask her if the family were making pàté and pork terrines 150 years ago,
or if that was something that was introduced when the French arrived. She’s
not sure so she calls her aunt.
‘My aunty says that the family have always been making terrines, pork
floss and dried beef, but pàté came at a much later stage, about the same
time the French were here, when the Vietnamese people also began to eat
baguettes.’
Pàté and baguettes — they have become such staples in Vietnamese
cuisine that I find it hard to imagine life without them…
Chicken and pork liver pâté
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Pàté is found everywhere throughout Vietnam,
seemingly on every street corner, and always served
with a crisp baguette, another culinary legacy of the
French occupation.
INGREDIENTS
200 g (7 oz) pork livers
200 g (7 oz) chicken livers
100 g (3½ oz) butter, softened
100 g (3½ oz) minced (ground) pork
2 red Asian shallots, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons brandy or Cognac
4 tablespoons pouring (whipping) cream
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
METHOD
Clean the livers of fat and sinew. Cut the pork livers to match the size of the
chicken livers. Wash under cold water, dry well with kitchen paper and set
aside.
Put 2 teaspoons of the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat.
When the butter starts to bubble, add half the livers and fry for 1–2 minutes
until browned, then turn them over and brown the other side for 1–2
minutes, making sure the livers remain pink in the middle. Remove to a
plate, then repeat the process with a little more butter and the remaining
livers.
Add 1 tablespoon of butter to the pan and gently cook the pork mince for
about 2 minutes, or until cooked through but not browned. Remove and set
aside. Wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper, then add 2 teaspoons of butter
and gently fry the shallots and garlic for 5 minutes, or until very soft and
slightly caramelised. Increase the heat, then return the livers and pork to the
pan, pour over the brandy or Cognac and ignite the alcohol. Once the flame
subsides, pour the liver mixture into a food processor and process until
smooth. With the motor running, add the remaining butter and the cream.
Season the pàté with the sugar, salt and white pepper; taste and adjust the
seasoning if necessary. Pour into a container and refrigerate for about 2
hours, or until set. Before serving, remove from the fridge and let stand at
room temperature for 30 minutes. Serve with baguettes.
Red braised pork belly
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Local Hanoians line up for hours for Mrs Chan’s red
braised pork belly, which they take home and stuff
into freshly baked crisp baguettes along with some
pàté and mayonnaise.
INGREDIENTS
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) boneless pork belly
½ teaspoon Chinese red food colouring
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon five–spice
1 tablespoon salt
1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) young coconut water
METHOD
Place the pork in a dish. In a small bowl, mix the red food colouring with 1
tablespoon of cold water, stirring to dissolve. Brush the mixture all over the
pork until well coloured. Combine the garlic, soy sauce, five-spice and salt.
Massage this mixture into the pork, then cover the pork and place in the
fridge to marinate for 1 hour.
Bring the coconut water to the boil in a large saucepan over high heat.
Place the pork flat on the work surface, skin side down, and roll up tightly
from the narrow end, from the bottom up. Tie the pork with kitchen string at
2 cm (¾ inch) intervals, then place the pork into the boiling coconut water.
Cover the pan, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1½ hours, or
until tender, turning the pork regularly during cooking time.
Once cooked, allow the pork to cool in the liquid before slicing the
amount you require. Serve with rice, vermicelli noodles or in crisp
Vietnamese baguettes. The pork will keep for up to 4 days in the fridge.
Chef Didier Corlou
IT’S 5 PM AND THE SUN IS BEGINNING TO set. It’s the perfect time
to chat to a chef: lunch service is finished and preparations for dinner are
almost complete. The evening sky is a stunning purplish pink and there’s a
rare cool breeze in the air, so I decide to walk. I’m on my way to meet Didier
Corlou, a master chef originally from Brittany in France. I have heard so
much about Didier, but have never had the chance to meet him in person.
Didier’s restaurant, the much-renowned La Verticale, is located on a quiet
tree-lined street called Ngo Van So, not too far from the city centre. My jaw
drops as I arrive and take in the sight before me. What a dream to have a
restaurant like this, set in a classic art deco 1930s four-storey French villa, a
building steeped in so much history and with so much charm!
I pick up the perfume of aromatic spices as I enter the front room. I feel as
if I’ve walked into an Asian apothecary as I find myself surrounded by huge
coils of cinnamon, jars of star anise, sichuan peppers and coriander seeds.
There is an assortment of aged fish sauce, pink nuoc mam salt, Phu Quoc
peppers, home-made goat’s cheese, curry powder concoctions in test tubes,
and shelves stocked with Didier’s cookbooks. The building retains its
original tiles and walls; the kitchen is the only modern thing in sight. I spot
Didier from afar; he is being interviewed by a camera crew. He stops and
waves at me, signalling that he won’t be long.
Minutes later he greets me and asks if I want a glass of wine. He looks
exhausted but his energy is contagious. He speaks at a million miles an hour
with a thick French accent, which keeps me on the edge of my seat.
‘I’ve spent the last three days with two different camera crews from
France. We’ve gone to th markets, eaten street food, and tomorrow I go to
Quy Nhon to meet up with seafood suppliers,’ he says without hardly
stopping for breath. ‘I’ve just opened my latest restaurant, Madame Hien, a
few months ago, it is bigger, busier, non-stop — still smoothing things out
there, but it is good. I have a function for the French consulate tonight, and
I’m working on a new menu. So… how are you?’
We talk about life in general for a bit, then I get down to what I’ve come
for: I ask him to tell me how he ended up in Vietnam.
‘I spent many years as Executive Chef at Pullman Hotels in France, before
getting transferred to Hanoi in 1991 to set up the new restaurants at the
Sofitel Metropole. I was there for fifteen years before setting up my own
restaurant. I initially started out introducing Vietnam to French cuisine,
blending French sauces with Vietnamese flavours, but as the years go on and
Vietnamese cuisine evolves, I find that Vietnamese food now influences my
French cooking.
‘I have worked and cooked all over the world, but nothing beats living in
Vietnam. I fell in love with it as soon as I arrived. The people are
wonderfully hospitable, the landscape so beautiful, the produce is
fantastically fresh, the culture is strong and the food…well… what can I say,
it’s the best in the world! I think that both cuisines are quite similar: both the
French and Vietnamese love subtle flavours, focus on fresh produce and both
eat similar things — offal, eel, frogs, smoked ham, cured sausage and even
snails. The two cuisines work in such harmony together.’
I ask him about pho noodle soup and if it has French origins. Didier
explains that he did a series of seminars on pho many years ago and released
a booklet to discuss the topic and the possible origins of the soup. He grabs a
copy of the booklet and passes it to me to read…
Pho is essentially a soup, served with noodles, consommé, thinly sliced
beef and sometimes onion. Each diner adds some fish sauce, chilli, fragrant
fresh herbs and spices, and a squeeze of lemon. Traditionally, pho was only
served in the morning and Hanoians only ate the soup on Sundays or in
times of poor health, but nowadays it is eaten at any time of day, most often
as street food. While pho is known andloved all over Vietnam, it is claimed
that Hanoi is the best place to go for pho.
As I had suspected, the exact origins of pho are a mystery and no one
seems to know for sure if it wasa Vietnamese creation or if it was adapted
from a blend of culinary traditions, although most will agree that there are
definite French and Chinese influences.
The presentation of the food is truly
exceptional, the balance of flavours and textures
is incredible … For me, this meal is the perfect
representation of the evolution of Vietnamese
cuisine.
Didier’s booklet explains that Nguyen Dinh Rao, president of the Unesco
Gastronomy Club in Hanoi, insists that the birthplace of pho was in Nam
Dinh city, in the Red River Delta in northern Vietnam. He claims that at the
beginning of the twentieth century a large textile industry was established
there, and many of the new city workers and French and Vietnamese soldiers
all wanted a dish that was less rustic than the traditional soups of the area.
The bouillon and the rice noodles are distinctly Vietnamese he claims, but to
meet the taste of the Europeans, beef and other ingredients were added.
One theory is that the word pho comes from a corruption of the French
feu, meaning fire. Others agree that pho was inspired by the boiled French
dish, le pot au feu. Didier agrees, pointing out that pot au feu and pho stock
are both made using marrow bones and charred onion to give a better colour
and flavour.
After reading the excerpts from Didier’s booklet, my respect for the man
grows tenfold. Never have I met a person as knowledgeable and as
passionate about Vietnamese cuisine and culture as he. I could spend all
night chatting to him but Didier has to get back to his kitchen. Instead of
rushing off I decide I will stay for dinner.
I walk up the spiral staircase to the main dining room, glancing at the
framed black-and-white pictures of Didier’s Breton family on the wall, of his
Hanoian wife, their two children and his Vietnamese in-laws. I realise then
that his new restaurant, Madame Hien, is named after his mother-in-law.
I have a quiet corner table to myself. It is set not only with a wine glass,
knife and fork, but also with chopsticks, salt, pepper, ground chilli, star anise
and black cardamom. Like the table setting and Didier’s cooking, the room
too reflects both Vietnamese and French influences. Antique tiles and thick
stone columns work nicely with wooden red chairs and contemporary
Vietnamese artwork.
I don’t need to order the food, it begins to arrive in a slow procession:
coconut palm rice paper rolls with chives and black truffles; Dalat artichoke
with clams and vinaigrette dressing; sea bass fillet fried with sweet chillies,
bok choy and fresh star anise; and goat’s cheese with truffles and sprouts
marinated in pollen liquor.
The presentation of the food is truly exceptional, the balance of flavours
and textures is incredible and the colonial ambience — brilliant. For me, this
meal is the perfect representation of the evolution of Vietnamese cuisine.
Stephan, Tin and the Green Tangerine
HANOI ON A SATURDAY NIGHT — I HAVE NEVER seen anything
like it. The streets are heaving with people and motorbikes. It’s anarchy on
the roads: the motorised do as they please, riding up onto the footpaths,
honking their horns and bullying the pedestrians out of their way. I am one
of those on foot and even I can barely walk, yet despite the snail’s pace at
which we all move, no one complains.
Saturday night is market night. The surrounding streets of the Old Quarter
have been closed and vendors are now free to sprawl their goods onto the
streets. Fake Gucci boots are up for sale alongside flash-fried nem rolls
filled with crab, prawns and pork; frogs’ legs, chilli and lemongrass are
tossed in a flaming wok beside a stand that sells propaganda postcards. A
balloon seller pushes past, struggling to control a bunch of balloons so large
that I wonder why they haven’t lifted her up into the clouds. Everything is
happening here and there’s nothing you can’t find.
I manage to break free from the human traffic and head towards my
destination. I have arranged to meet one of Hanoi’s leading restaurateurs,
and we’ve planned to meet at a popular food stand.
Stephan and his wife, Tin, are already there, sitting kerb side with a beer
in hand. I notice that they’re both smartly dressed; very appropriate attire I
think to myself, as street food is such a theatrical experience. This place
serves only two dishes: bo nuong vi, marinated beef cooked at the table, and
bo sot vang, beef slowly braised in wine. This is the French-inspired dish
that Madame Van recommended to me, and I have been waiting to try it all
week.
A boy drops a portable gas cooker on our table, turns it on high, then
places a heavy iron plate on top to heat up. The waiter brings out an
enormous platter of finely sliced beef, which has been marinated in garlic
oil, sesame oil and lemongrass. There’s another platter laden with various
fresh mint leaves, star fruit, bean sprouts and rice paper. We sit in the open
air, chatting, drinking and chargrilling our beef, a thick cloud of fragrant
smoke rising above us.
Stephan is French–Vietnamese, and both he and Tin are the owners of
Green Tangerine on Hang Be, a restaurant set in a beautifully restored
French townhouse. I wanted to meet up with them to learn about Stephan’s
family history and to hear more about their very successful restaurant.
‘My father was a captain in the French army,’ Stephan tells me. ‘He met
my mother in Hanoi where they eventually married. When colonial rule
ended, my parents were forced to go to Brittany, where I was born. We only
spoke French at home; we were forbidden to speak Vietnamese. The only
time we heard Vietnamese spoken was when my parents would fight and
argue. Because of that we began to believe that Vietnamese was an ugly
language, so we didn’t want to learn it anyway. We knew nothing about
Vietnam or my mother’s heritage, and we were forbidden to find out.
I left my job and began to cook more and more,
re-creating all the wonderful food my parents
cooked in France, using imported French
ingredients to cook Vietnamese food.
‘The only positive thing we knew about Vietnam was its food. Every day,
my parents used French ingredients to cook authentic Vietnamese dishes.
As I grew older I began to wonder why we weren’t allowed to talk about
Vietnam yet we were eating Vietnamese cuisine on a daily basis.
Determined to discover my heritage, I rebelled. At family gatherings I
would ask uncles, aunties and grandparents about Vietnam’s culture and
traditions. When they were all gathered together as a family, it was so
obvious that there was more Vietnamese cultural energy than there was
French. So why were they all in such denial?
‘In 1993 I signed on for a job as an engineer in biology. We travelled to
Vietnam to screen for hepatitis and HIV. My family ordered me not to go,
but we all do what we are told not to.
‘My work eventually took me to Hanoi. At that stage I had been in
Vietnam for almost two years and I enjoyed every moment of it. One night
my friends and I visited a restaurant that served Pan-Asian cuisine; it was
new and different so I had to check it out. The food was delicious and the
business was run really well. It was owned by Tin and her family, and that’s
where we met. We had the same passion for food — and for each other. We
married not long after.
‘As my love for food grew, I left my job and began to cook more and
more, re-creating all the wonderful food my parents cooked in France, using
imported French ingredients to cook Vietnamese food. So the idea of Green
Tangerine was born. Tin’s mother hits the markets at 4 am every day,
sourcing the freshest produce and, like Vietnamese cuisine, Green
Tangerine is constantly evolving.’
The next dish arrives and Stephan opens his arms wide as if about to
embrace it. ‘Street food is king!’ he says as the waiter sets down a basket of
crisp baguettes and individual bowls of bo sot vang. The sauce is thick,
deep in colour from the red wine and annatto. Star anise, cinnamon and
five-spice release aromas that we can’t resist. We pick up our baguettes, tear
off pieces and quickly drown our bread in it. The brisket is soft, moist and
tender from being cooked for many hours. It is refined and so delicious. It is
indeed a meal fit for royalty and we are feasting like kings and queens.
Steamed Murray cod with passionfruit sauce
SERVES 4
Stephan and Tin are very proud of this dish as it
displays both Vietnamese and French cooking
techniques and flavours.
INGREDIENTS
4 x 200 g (7 oz) Murray cod fillets, skinned (or other skinless firm white fish
fillets)
½ bunch dill
28 English spinach leaves
370 g (13 oz/2 cups) steamed jasmine rice, warm
300 g (10½ oz) passionfruit, juiced with seeds
80 g (2¾ oz) sugar
juice of 1 lemon
METHOD
To mould the fish and the spinach parcels you will need four 4 cm (1½ inch)
and eight 12 cm (4½ inch) round pastry cutters.
To steam and mould the fish fillets, first place four greased 4 cm (1½ inch)
round pastry cutters into the middle of four greased 12 cm (4½ inch) round
pastry cutters. Place a fish fillet in between the two cutters so that it becomes
a circular shape. Sprinkle the fish with some dill, salt and pepper. Repeat
with the other three fillets.
Line a large bamboo steamer with baking paper and punch a few holes in
the paper. Place the fish fillets (still in the pastry cutters) in the steamer and
cover with the lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling
water and steam for 8 minutes. Remove and set aside.
Meanwhile, blanch the spinach in boiling water for 30 seconds, then
refresh in iced water and drain. Divide the spinach leaves over the remaining
four 12 cm (4½ inch) pastry cutters, overlapping the leaves slightly to form a
star-like shape. Divide the warm steamed rice into four portions and mould
the steamed rice into the spinach-lined cutters, then enclose the leaves
around the rice and press down firmly to make a neat parcel. Set aside.
In a small saucepan, combine the passionfruit, sugar and lemon juice.
Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, or until the sugar dissolves and the
sauce thickens a little. Set aside.
Place a spinach parcel onto each serving plate, then remove the pastry
cutters. Place the steamed fish on top of the spinach and carefully remove
the pastry cutters. Pour 1 tablespoon of passionfruit sauce over the top and
garnish with a sprig of dill.
Meringue et passion
SERVES 4
INGREDIENTS
2 eggs, separated
170 g (6 oz) caster (superfine) sugar
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) strained passionfruit juice (about 8 passionfruit)
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) milk
1 tablespoon plain (all–purpose) flour
100 g (3½ oz) mascarpone
icing (confectioners’) sugar, for dusting (optional)
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F/Gas 2). Line a baking tray with baking
paper.
To make the meringues, use an electric mixer to whisk the egg whites until
soft peaks form, then slowly add 130 g (4½ oz) of the sugar. Whisk until the
meringue is shiny and stiff peaks form.
Spoon the meringue into four large mounds onto the prepared tray, spacing
them apart. Use a palette knife to smooth them into neat balls. Alternatively,
pipe the meringues into four large mounds using a large piping (icing)
nozzle. Place in the oven and cook for 45–50 minutes. Remove from the
oven and set aside to cool.
To make the passionfruit sauce, put the passionfruit juice and 20 g (¾ oz)
of the sugar in a saucepan, stirring occasionally until the sugar has dissolved.
Bring to a simmer and cook for 2 minutes, or until reduced and thickened.
Remove the pan from the heat and place in the fridge to cool.
Heat the milk in a small saucepan. Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks and the
remaining 20 g (¾ oz) of sugar until pale and thick. Add the flour and beat
well, then transfer to a small saucepan. Slowly add the warm milk to the egg
yolk mixture over very low heat, stirring until thickened. Remove the pan
from the heat, cover the custard directly with plastic wrap, and set aside until
cooled to room temperature. When the custard has cooled, add the
mascarpone and 2 tablespoons of the passionfruit sauce and stir to combine.
Fill a piping bag with the passionfruit custard.
Using a small spoon, gently scoop out a small hole from the base of the
meringues and then pipe the passionfruit custard into the hole. Place each
filled meringue onto a serving plate. Combine the remaining passionfruit
sauce with 3 tablespoons of water to thin it a little, then pour the sauce
around each meringue. If you like, dust with icing sugar before serving.
Fried chocolate truffles with pink pepper
SERVES 4–6
This is one of Green Tangerine’s signature desserts. It
would have to be the most unusual chocolate dessert I
have ever seen, which is why I love it!
TRUFFLES
100 g (3½ oz) dark chocolate, chopped
30 ml (1 fl oz) thickened cream
20 g (¾ oz) unsalted butter
1 teaspoon ground pink peppercorns
BATTER
2 eggs
50 g (1¾ oz) sugar
100 g (3½ oz/2/3cup) plain (all–purpose) flour
25 g (1 oz) unsweetened cocoa powder, plus extra to serve
vegetable oil, for deep–frying
METHOD
To make the truffles, melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan
of simmering water. Add the cream, butter and pink pepper and mix well
until smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and press a piece of plastic
wrap onto the surface of the chocolate to prevent a skin forming.
Chill the chocolate mixture in the fridge for about 20 minutes, to firm up a
little. After this time, roll the chocolate into small marble-sized balls, or use
a melon baller to scoop the mixture into small balls, and arrange them on a
tray lined with baking paper. Place the tray and chocolate balls in the freezer
for 1 hour.
To make the batter, combine the eggs, sugar, flour and cocoa powder in a
mixing bowl. Mix together well, making sure you get rid of any lumps, then
slowly add 50 ml (1¾ fl oz) water, mixing well to form a smooth, thick
batter. Cover and set aside at room temperature for 10 minutes.
Half-fill a medium-sized saucepan with the oil and heat to 180°C (350°F),
or until a cube of bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Using an
oiled tablespoon, coat each truffle ball, one at a time, with the batter, then
transfer into the hot oil, pulling the spoon away from you to the other side of
the pan — the batter will slide off the spoon, creating a long teardrop. Deep-
fry the truffle for 30 seconds, then carefully transfer to kitchen paper to
drain. Repeat this process with the remaining chocolate balls.
Before serving, sprinkle a little cocoa powder over the top of the chocolate
truffles.
List of Recipes
Chargrilled beef and asparagus mustard rolls
Green mango and pomelo salad with soft shell crab
Quail cooked in orange and coconut water
Pumpkin flowers stuffed with prawns and dill
Rabbit in red wine
Beef tongue slow-braised in red wine
Coq au vin
Heart of palm and tomato salad with Vietnamese herbs
Dalat artichoke and pork rib soup
Wok-tossed cabbage with garlic
Warm beef and watercress salad
Asparagus wok-tossed with Asian mushrooms
Caramelised pork belly with quail eggs
Vietnamese baguette
Baguette with steamed pork balls
Green tea-smoked duck
I’M ABOVE THE CLOUDS, FLYING OVER SOFT FLUFFY puffs of
white; if only I could jump out, spread my arms and lay on them. As the
plane begins its descent, the clouds gracefully disappear, revealing a
landscape like no other I’ve seen in Vietnam. A vibrant patchwork green of
rolling hills as far as the eye can see, a landscape of pine forests, French
villas and beautiful lakes — I feel as if I’ve stumbled into the French Alps in
springtime.
The doors open and the gush of crisp, cool air that enters the plane sends
me rummaging through my bag for my jacket. After the intense heat of the
last week, the cooler climate is welcome relief indeed! I have arrived in the
Central Highlands of Vietnam, in a town called Dalat, the ‘city of eternal
spring’.
The name Da Lat comes from the hill tribe groups, the original inhabitants
of the region, and its name means ‘stream of the Lat people’. Dalat is 1500
metres above sea level, and its cool climate and high rainfall make it ideal
for growing vegetables and herbs.
Guests having lunch in the gardens of the Dalat Palace in the early 1900s
Dalat train station in the early 1900s; Dalat train station as it is today; Guests arriving at the Dalat
Palace by plane
Villa built by the French in the early 1900s;
Vietnamese workers and their French employer
In 1893, Swiss-born French physician Dr Alexandre Yersin, a protégé of
Dr Louis Pasteur, visited the region, its ever green trees and hills reminding
him of his homeland. So enamoured was he of the town’s charms, he
recommended the French colonial administration form a health resort in the
area. Soon hotels, chalets and villas began to spring up all over town, and
French government officials, military personnel and foreign dignitaries,
looking for a respite from the oppressive heat of the cities, flocked here on
weekends — a playground for the colony’s rich when en vacance.
The area became known as ‘le petit Paris’, and much of its French colonial
past is still evident today. One of the oldest French hotels still standing is the
luxurious Dalat Palace, built in 1922. It became the epicentre around which
the rest of the town developed, and housed the social elite. Hoping to get just
a glimpse of the glitz and glamour of life back then, I have booked a room
there.
As I wheel my bags out of the airport, my dream life begins to unfold. I
spot a man dressed in a black suit, standing in front of a beautifully restored
black and gold vintage Citroën, holding a sign: ‘Mr Luke Nguyen’.
‘That’s me! That’s me!’ I shriek as I run towards him, barely able to
contain my excitement. Not very cool, I must admit. I had seen this type of
car in Hanoi, but now I’m about to ride in one.
I nestle into the car’s soft, dark red seats and breathe in the scent of old
leather. The drive through town transports me to the Europe of a hundred
years ago, as we pass lakes, churches, convents, windmills and a treasure
trove of French provincial architecture. The car pulls into the grounds of the
Dalat Palace, down a long driveway surrounded by hectares of lush rolling
lawns and flower beds. This place is like a country estate and I feel like a
king.
Dalat Palace
THE CITROËN SLOWS TO A HALT IN FRONT OF THE Dalat Palace
hotel and I step out onto red carpet. In the lobby, four hosts warmly greet
me, offering a variety of Asian and European teas. The hotel’s decor is
magnificently elegant: the lobby is dotted with plush chairs, an elaborate
chandelier hangs from the high ceiling, and even the floor tiles are works of
art. There is no need to check in. I’m guided up a grand staircase to my
room, with Edith Piaf’s La vie en rose playing in the background.
My room has French doors that open out onto a view of the picturesque
Xuan Huong Lake. There’s no shower, only a claw-foot bathtub. I imagine
myself here a hundred years ago; I would spend all day in my room soaking
in the tub or writing letters to friends and family with my fountain pen, and
sealing the envelopes with hot wax… But letter writing will have to wait; I
head down to the hotel’s signature restaurant, Le Rabelais, and take a seat at
a table dressed with pressed linen and set with fine crystal.
The waitress, dressed as they did centuries ago with a ruffled petal-shaped
apron and head piece, shows me the ‘1926 Menu’. This menu is a re-creation
of an original menu found in the Dalat museum, and has been carefully
replicated by the hotel’s chefs…
‘Young rabbit aspic with apple foie gras, pickled shallot and mushroom;
Bread consommé with beef and porto sauce;
Roasted chicken and red beans with bacon, and
fine green salad of the moment;
Selection of cheeses;
Fresh fruit tart with raspberry coulis.’
There is no way I can eat all that myself, so I opt for the à la carte menu
and order a dish called ‘The best of Dalat, from the hill to the garden’, as I’m
curious to see what produce is grown here.
My meal arrives and it is truly decadent: asparagus soup; smoked duck
rillettes; pumpkin flowers stuffed with goat’s cheese; and artichoke and
avocado rice paper rolls served with raspberry chutney — all beautifully
arranged and finished with a scattering of edible flowers. The chef, dressed
in crisp starched whites and a very tall chef’s hat, comes out to check on my
meal. His name is Linh and he has been cooking in the Rabelais’ kitchen for
over fifteen years. He tells me that in the early 1900s Dalat was well known
as good hunting grounds for wild boar, black bears, deer, panthers, tigers,
elephants and peacocks, and that guests once stood out on the restaurant
balcony and shot these animals for entertainment. Sadly, hunting was so
popular in Dalat that most of these animals no longer exist here.
But I’m not interested in hunting, I want to learn more about the fresh
herbs and vegetables that grow so abundantly throughout Dalat, which
varieties were introduced by the French and what other foods and influences
they brought with them. I ask chef Linh where he sources his produce. He
tells me he has many suppliers, but one grower in particular supplies all of
his European herbs, such as thyme, sage and rosemary — a small farm just
on the outskirts of town called the Golden Garden.
The sun is shining but the air is cool so I wrap myself in a scarf, borrow a
motorbike from the hotel and head to the hills, to embark on my French
discovery tour of Dalat.
The Palace’s vintage Citroën
Dalat Palace in the early 1900s.
Chargrilled beef and asparagus mustard rolls
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED STARTER
Dijon mustard is a fantastic French ingredient that the
Vietnamese now enjoy using in many of their dishes.
Here the mustard is married with the Asian flavours
of soy and fish sauce to make a surprisingly
wonderful combination.
INGREDIENTS
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) beef sirloin
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
10 asparagus spears, trimmed
2 carrots, peeled and sliced to the length of the asparagus (you’ll need 10
pieces of carrot)
2½ tablespoons dijon mustard
10 spring onions (scallions), white part only
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
light soy sauce and sliced red chilli, for dipping
METHOD
Trim the beef and thinly slice it into ten 5 x 8 cm (2 x 3¼ inch) pieces.
Combine the soy sauce, fish sauce, sesame oil, garlic, sugar, salt and pepper
in a mixing bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the beef and toss to coat
in the marinade, then cover and set aside at room temperature for 20
minutes.
Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to the boil, add the asparagus and
blanch for 2 minutes. Drain, then place the asparagus in iced water to stop
the cooking process. Drain and set aside. Repeat the process to blanch the
carrots.
Lay the beef slices on a chopping board and spread 1 teaspoon of mustard
over each slice. Now add 1 piece of asparagus, carrot and spring onion to
each slice of beef. Roll up the beef to enclose the vegetables. Repeat to make
10 rolls in total.
Heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium heat. Drizzle the beef
rolls with the vegetable oil, then chargrill the rolls for 3 minutes on each
side. Garnish with the sesame seeds and serve with a small bowl of soy
sauce and sliced chilli for dipping.
Green mango and pomelo salad with soft
shell crab
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Green mangoes are fantastic in salads. They are a
little sweet, a little sour and have such great texture.
When choosing green mango, go for the smaller
variety, and make sure it is green and firm. If green
mango is unavailable, try green papaya or green apple
instead.
INGREDIENTS
1 pomelo
1 green mango, peeled and julienned (see note)
1 handful perilla leaves, torn
1 handful mint leaves, torn
1 handful Vietnamese mint leaves, torn
1 spring onion (scallion), thinly sliced
1 tablespoon fried garlic
2–3 tablespoons dipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham)
1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) vegetable oil, for deep-frying
4 soft shell crabs
100 g (3½ oz) potato starch
1 tablespoon chopped roasted peanuts
2 tablespoons fried red Asian shallots
1 bird’s eye chilli, sliced
METHOD
Peel the pomelo and then roughly segment it by simply tearing small pieces
with your hands, doing your best to remove the tough outer pith. Put the
pomelo in a mixing bowl with the green mango, herbs, spring onion and
fried garlic. Dress with the dipping fish sauce and set aside.
Heat the oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of
bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Pat the crabs dry with
kitchen paper, then cut each crab in half and dust with the potato starch.
Working in small batches, deep-fry the crabs for 4 minutes, carefully turning
them over in the oil after 2 minutes, until crisp. Remove and place on
kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil.
Arrange the salad on a platter. Place the crabs on top and garnish with the
peanuts, fried shallots and chilli.
Note To prepare the green mango, first peel and cut off the flesh in thin
slices around the stone, then slice into fine julienne. Alternatively, you can
use a serrated vegetable shredder, known as a kom kom peeler (sold in Asian
food stores), to do this.
Quail cooked in orange and coconut water
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Quails are really enjoyable to eat; they are full of
flavour, inexpensive and incredibly versatile. The
trick to a perfectly cooked quail is to always keep it
moist, so don’t forget to baste the quail during
cooking time.
INGREDIENTS
6 quails
40 g (1½ oz) butter
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) young coconut water (or chicken stock)
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) shaoxing rice wine
2 tablespoons fish sauce
4 tablespoons orange juice
½ teaspoon grated orange zest
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons sugar
6 pitted prunes
1 tablespoon potato starch
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). To butterfly the quails, place
them on a chopping board, breast side up. Using poultry scissors or a sharp
knife, cut down along each side of the backbone. Discard the backbone. Put
the quail, skin side up, on the board and press firmly down on the ribcage,
pressing it out flat.
Combine the butter, coconut water, rice wine, fish sauce, orange juice and
zest, garlic and sugar in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Place the quails in
a single layer in a flameproof baking dish, add the prunes, then pour over
the orange and coconut water mixture. Bake for 45 minutes, occasionally
basting the quails with the liquid.
Remove the baking dish from the oven and place on the stovetop over
high heat. Transfer the quails to a serving platter. Sprinkle the potato starch
into the baking dish, stir constantly for 1 minute, then reduce the heat and
simmer for 2 minutes until the sauce is thickened. Add the Grand Marnier
and stir to combine. Pour the sauce over the quails and serve.
Pumpkin flowers stuffed with prawns and dill
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED STARTER
I learnt so much about edible flowers while in Dalat.
Chef Linh offers a fantastic ‘Flower Menu’ at the
Dalat Palace for guests who want to sample the
region’s edible flowers. Pumpkin flowers are enjoyed
throughout Vietnam, but I have never seen them
served anywhere else in the world, so if you can’t
source them use zucchini flowers instead.
INGREDIENTS
350 g (12 oz) raw prawns (shrimp), peeled, deveined and roughly chopped
½ bunch dill, picked
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
pinch of salt and pepper
12 pumpkin flowers, stems intact with stamens removed (or use zucchini
flowers)
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
2 egg whites
155 g (5 ½ oz/1 cup) potato starch
6 violet flowers, to garnish (optional)
1 lime, cut into wedges
METHOD
Using a mortar and pestle, pound the prawns into a fine paste. Place into a
mixing bowl and add half the dill, the fish sauce, garlic, salt and pepper.
Using your hands, mix everything together for 2 minutes, or until combined
well. Take a teaspoon of the paste and carefully stuff each pumpkin flower.
Fill a wok or deep-fryer one-third full of oil and heat to 180°C (350°F), or
until a cube of bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Meanwhile,
put the egg whites into a bowl and beat well. Put the potato starch into
another bowl. Carefully dip each filled pumpkin flower into the egg white to
coat. Drain off the excess, then dust each flower with the potato starch until
dry. Shake off the excess starch, then deep-fry the flowers in three batches
for 3–4 minutes, or until crisp, be
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KHÍ CÔNG Y ĐẠO VIỆT NAM
SỔ TAY TÌM HUYỆT
ĐỖ ĐỨC NGỌC
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Khích-Nguyên, Khích-Du, Thông : TrÎ Çau nhÙc chân tay.
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Thông-B° 12 ÇÜ©ng kinh.
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Tä-Thông 12 ÇÜ©ng kinh :
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1-ñiŠu hòa HÕa-Thûy :
VuÓt tØ ThÆn du lên Tâm du 6-36 lÀn
dùng Ç‹ tä hÕa, tä nhiŒt trong bŒnh
sÓt nhiŒt, cao áp huy‰t.
2-Tä nhiŒt :
VuÓt tØ Bàng Quang du lên Quy‰t
âm du.
3-Tä hÕa :
VuÓt tØ Bàng Quang du lên Ti‹u
trÜ©ng du rÒi vuÓt tØ ThÆn du lên
Tâm du.
4-Tä hå xuÃt can nhiŒt Ƕc :
VuÓt tØ ThÆn du lên Can du 18 lÀn,và
vuÓt tØ ThÆn du lên Ph‰ du 36 lÀn, rÒi
tØ Bàng Quang du lên ThÆn du 18
lÀn, và tØ Bàng quang du lên ñåi
trÜ©ng du 18 lÀn.
5-Ho cäm do Ph‰ nhiŒt :
VuÓt tØ ThÆn du lên Tâm du 18 lÀn,
rÒi tØ ThÆn du lên Ph‰ du 36 lÀn.
6-Ho cäm do Ph‰ hàn :
VuÓt tØ Can du lên Tâm du 18 lÀn,rÒi
tØ Tâm du lên Ph‰ du 18 lÀn.
7-Bao tº nhiŒt :
VuÓt tØ ThÆn du lên Quy‰t âm du 18 lÀn, tØ ThÆn du lên Ph‰ du 18 lÀn ,tØ Bàng
Quang du lên ñåi trÜ©ng du 9 lÀn rÒi tØ Bàng Quang du lên VÎ du 18 lÀn.
8-B° HÕa :
VuÓt tØ Can du lên Tâm du 18-36 lÀn. VuÓt tØ Ti‹u trÜ©ng du lên Quy‰t âm du 18
lÀn.
9-Tæng nhiŒt :
VuÓt tØ Tam tiêu du lên ñªm du 18 lÀn, tØ ñªm du lên Quy‰t âm du 18 lÀn.
10-Bón nhiŒt :
VuÓt tØ ThÆn du lên Ph‰ du 18 lÀn, tØ ñåi trÜ©ng du lên ThÆn du 18 lÀn, rÒi vuÓt tØ
Hå Liêm ljn Khúc Trì 18-36 lÀn.
11-Bao tº hàn :
VuÓt tØ ñªm du lên Quy‰t âm du 18 lÀn,Tÿ du lên Tâm du 18 lÀn, rÒi VÎ du lên Tâm
du 18 lÀn.
12-Hå ÇÜ©ng trong máu :
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,vuÓt tØ ñåi TrÜ©ng du lên VÎ du, rÒi tØ Bàng Quang du lên Tam tiêu du, m‡I huyŒt
18 lÀn.
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Côngdøng cûa huyŒt theo
bát pháp
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TáC døng thông :
Møc Çích thông trŒ : dissolvant-antistate :
Thông Nhâm ñÓc
Thông Måch Nhâm,Ph‰
Thông nhuÆn ph‰
Thông Måch ñÓc
Thông mÛi
Thông mÛi, m¡t khô do nhiŒt h¶i
Thông m¡t
Thông m¡t tai
Thông tai
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Thông thÃp trŒ
Thông khí cÖ tam tiêu
Thông l®I kh§p tay vai
Thông ti‹u nhiŒt
Thông ti‹u
Thông trÜ©ng vÎ thÃp nhiŒt
Thông thÜ®ng tiêu
Thông ph‰ khí thûng
TrÜ©ng cÜ©ng. Nhân trung
LiŒt Khuy‰t
Kh°ng tÓi
HÆu Khê
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Thính cung. Trung ch». Nhï môn
Túc tam lš. Thi‰u thÜÖng
Âm thÎ
Tam dÜÖng låc
ñåi chùy
Huy‰t häi
Tam âm giao
Ty trúc không
Kiên ngung
Thanh lãnh uyên
ñÎa thÜÖng
ThÜ®ng c¿ hÜ. N¶I Çình
Trung phû
Âm Çô
68
Tác døng thÜ giãn chÓng co th¡t
ThÜ cân giäi co rút do hÕa thiêu cân
ThÜ ÇÀu c° gáy, cánh tay, lÜng
ThÜ gân c°, bong gân
ThÜ hÀu h†ng
ThÜ cân måch toàn thân
ThÜ cân thông låc
ThÜ cân thông låc l®i yêu tÃt
ThÜ cân månh lÜng gÓi
ThÜ cân, månh cÓt, trøc phong ª gÓi
ThÜ cân tÙ chi, run gân, Parkinson
ThÜ cân låc ª can
ThÜ hung cách
ThÜ kinh måch
ThÜ cân låc chÓng co th¡t
ThÜ lÜ«i
ThÜ lÒng ng¿c
ThÜ tim ng¿c
ThÜ ng¿c l®I cách do khí uÃt, nghËt thª
ThÜ ng¿c Ùc hÀu h†ng
ThÜ ng¿c bøng
ThÜ thÀn kinh bøng, Çùi hang
ThÜ trung tiêu
ThÜ th¿c Çåo, môn vÎ
ThÜ trÜ©ng vÎ
ThÜ tôn cân
ThÜ yêu do Ù huy‰t
ThÜ giãn gân bÎ co rút
Khúc tråch
Tiêu låc
Hàm y‰n
Thiên Ƕt
HÆu khê. ñåi tr». Thân måch
DÜ«ng lão. ThØa sÖn.Côn lôn.DÜÖng trì
Ñy trung
Côn lôn
DÜÖng læng tuyŠn
Kh‰ måch. LÜ tÙc
Trung phong. Khúc tuyŠn
Chí dÜÖng. Khích môn. Cách du
Yêu du
Thái båch. Công tôn. ñåi bao.
MŒnh môn. Cân súc
Hoåt nhøc môn
Ki‰n lš. CÜu VÏ. ñªm du
ñåi læng
Chiên trung
Hoa cái
TrÃp cân
Âm bao
N¶I quan. ThÜ®ng trung quän.
TuyŠn cÖ
ThÀn khuy‰t
Khí xung
Ân môn
Á môn
69
Tác døng l®I :
L®I cách
L®I cÖ quan
L®I dÎch chÃt, l®I ti‹u,thông ti‹u
L®I Ǫm
L®I hå tiêu
L®I bàng quang
L®I bàng quang ÇiŠu thûy Çåo
L®I bàng quang do thÃp nhiŒt
L®I quan ti‰t
L®I ræng kh§p
L®I ti‹u tháo thÃp
L®I thông ti‹u
L®I thÃp nhiŒt ti‹u trÜ©ng
L®I trÜ©ng
L®I thûy thÃp
L®I xÜÖng kh§p
L®I xÜÖng lÜng
L®I yêu tích
L®I y‰t khai âm
L®I y‰t hÀu sÜng Çau do hÕa
L®i y‰t hÀu khô h†ng
L®i yêu tÃt
L®i phúc thûng ( bøng l§n nhÜ trÓng )
C¿ Khuy‰t
Phong phû
ñÎa thÜÖng
TÙ båch
Âm læng. Âm cÓc. Hoang du
Thûy Çåo
Ñy dÜÖng . Phøc lÜu
Trung c¿c
Khúc trì
Giáp xa
Chí thÃt
Âm bao, âm læng,Âm cÓc,Quan nguyên
Ti‹u trÜ©ng du
Thû tam lš
Thûy phân
Á môn
ThÆn du. Bàng quang du
Nhân trung. MŒnh môn
Thiên Ƕt
Liêm tuyŠn. ThÜÖng dÜÖng. NhÎTamgian
Nhân nghênh. Thi‰u thÜÖng
NgÜ t‰. Thiên ÇÌnh. Chi‰u häi
Yêu dÜÖng quan.ñåi trÜ©ng du
Quan nguyên
Âm cÓc
70
Tác døng b° hÜ t°n :
Møc Çích cûng cÓ cho månh tonic-antivide
TçNG PHÑ :
B° tång phû
B° vinh vŒ khí, tông khí
B° ngÛ tång khí, tr® khí trung tiêu
B° thÆn hÜ, b° nguyên khí
B° khí hÒi dÜÖng
B° thÆn dÜÖng
B° tr® vÆn hóa can tÿ thÆn
B° hÜ t°n tæng båch cÀu
B° lao t°n
B° hÜ phò chính
B° phò ích tÿ
B° Tÿ vÎ
KiŒn Tÿ vÎ
KiŒn vÆn hóa tÿ vÎ bÎ hÜ hàn
Phò th° hóa thÃp ª vÎ
Phò th° hóa thÃp ñåi trÜ©ng
Phò th° trØ thÃp hàn, thÃp thûy
Tr® khí hóa hå tiêu
B° tång thÆn
B° thÆn hóa thÃp hàn, thÃp nhiŒt
B° thÆn âm tráng nguyên dÜÖng
Tr® vÆn hóa trung tiêu
Tr® vÆn hóa trung tiêu hàn
Theo ngÛ du huyŒt trên kinh.
Chiên trung
Trung quän
Khí häi
Quan nguyên
MŒnh môn. Tam tiêu du
Tam âm giao
ñào Çåo
Ph‰ du
Túc tam lš
…n båch. Thái båch
Công tôn
ThÜÖng khâu
ThÀn khuy‰t
Xung dÜÖng
Thiên xu
Tÿ du
Trung c¿c
ThÆn du. Phøc lÜu
Côn lôn
Thái khê
Thái båch
ChÜÖng môn
71
Tác døng Ôn : Làm Ãm
Ôn ÇiŠu thÃt tinh cung hàn
Ôn hå tiêu hàn
Ôn thông nguyên dÜÖng cÓ thoát
Ôn dÜÖng hÒi nghÎch, ôn tÿ hàn
Ôn thÆn hàn
Trung c¿c. Yêu dÜÖng quan. Quan
nguyên
Khí häi. Yêu du
ThÀn khuy‰t
…n båch
Kinh môn.
Tác døng Thæng, giáng :
Thæng dÜÖng cÓ thoát
Thæng dÜÖng cÙu nghÎch
ñiŠu thæng
ñiŠu giáng
Bách h¶i
TÓ liêu
B° Trung quän
Tä Trung quän
Giáng can khí nghÎch làm qu¥n Çau
Giáng âm hÕa quy‰t nghÎch ( thûy nhiŒt
lên ÇÀu )
Giáng hÕa khí nghÎch 12 kinh
Giáng hÕa khí nghÎch tam tiêu
Giáng hÕa nghÎch thÜ®ng tiêu
Giáng hÕa nghÎch hÀu h†ng ,sÜng h†ng
Giáng khí Ù
Giáng, lÜÖng huy‰t
Giáng ph‰ ÇiŠu khí
Giáng khí trÜ©ng vÎ Giáng låc huy‰t
Giáng ph‰ khí nghÎch
Giáng khí ngÎch
Giáng nghÎch khu phong thÃp
Giáng vÎ hÕa nghÎch, quy‰t nghÎch
Giáng vÎ nghÎch thÃp hàn
Giáng vÎ khí nhiŒt
Giang nghÎch hóa thÃp
x ñåi Çôn
DÛng tuyŠn
ThÜÖng dÜÖng
Chi cÃu
Khúc tråch
NhÎ, Tam gian, Phù Ƕt
C¿ cÓt
Khích môn
ñåi chùy. Kh°ng tÓi
H®p cÓc
Xích tråch
Chiên trung. ThÜ®ng quän
LÜÖng khâu
LŒ Çoài
Kim môn
N¶i Çình
ThÜ®ng quän
72
Tác døng ÇiŠu : ÇiŠu chÌnh
ñiŠu ph‰ tÿ
ñiŠu ph‰ khí
ñiŠu giáng ph‰ khí
ñiŠu giáng ph‰ khí thûng
ñiŠu giáng khí Çåi trÜ©ng
ñiŠu khí Çåi trÜ©ng
ñiŠu trÜ©ng phû
ñiŠu khí trÜ©ng vÎ
ñiŠu vÎ khí
ñiŠu khí hòa vÎ
ñiŠu thÆn khí
ñiŠu Bàng quang
ñiŠu khí lš huy‰t
ñI“U HUYrT :
ñiŠu can ph‰ bÃt hòa
ñiŠu huy‰t
ñiŠu giáng huy‰t nghÎch ( máu cam )
ñiŠu huy‰t häi
ñiŠu huy‰t bào cung
ñiŠu kinh, huy‰t
ñiŠu hòa kinh nguyŒt
ñiŠu kinh hòa vinh huy‰t
ñiŠu Nhâm Måch
ñiŠu Xung Måch
ñiŠu vinh huy‰t can thÆn
ñiŠu thÆn huy‰t
ñI“U KH´ :
ñiŠu nguyên khí
ñiŠu khí ích nguyên
ñiŠu khí âm dÜÖng thØa nghÎch
ñiŠu hòa khí âm dÜÖng
ñiŠu khí hóa
ñiŠu phû khí
ñiŠu thæng giáng khí
ñiŠu khí giáng nghÎch
ñiŠu khí cÖ
ñiŠu khí cÖ tam tiêu
ñiŠu ǧI måch
Trung phû
Trung phû. Ph‰ du.
Kh°ng tÓi. ñåi chùy
Âm Çô
Tam gian
Thiên xu
Khúc tråch
ThÜ®ng c¿ hÜ. ñåi trÜ©ng du
LÜÖng khâu. VÎ du
C¿ khuy‰t
Yêu dÜÖng quan. Phøc lÜu. ThÆn du
Âm læng tuyŠn. Khí xung. Ti‹u trÜ©ngdu
Tâm du. Thái xung
Thiên phû
Huy‰t Häi. …n Båch
Kh°ng tÓi
Công tôn
Trung c¿c. Tam âm giao. ñÎa cÖ
Thûy TuyŠn
Thái Xung
ñåi Çôn
LiŒt Khuy‰t
Hoang du
ñ§i måch
ñåi chung
Quan nguyên
Khí Häi
ThØa tÜÖng
Nhân Trung
Tam tiêu du
ThØa sÖn
Trung quän
Chiên trung
Thái båch. Thiên Ƕt
r phong. Ty trúc không
ñ§i måch. Túc lâm khÃp
73
ñiŠu khí l®I yêu tích
ñiŠu trung khí
ñiŠu kinh låc khí huy‰t
ñiŠu cÓt ti‰t
ñiŠu khí trŒ
ñiŠu lš khí
ñiŠu khí huy‰t l®I y‰t hÀu
ñiŠu thûy Çåo
ñiŠu tâm khí
MŒnh môn
LÜÖng môn.Túc tam lš
Túc tam lš
ñåi tr»
Can du. ñªm du
Tÿ du
Nhân nghênh
Thiên lÎch. Ñy dÜÖng
Gian sÙ
Tác døng hòa : Làm hòa dÎu b§t xung kh¡c.
Hòa vinh huy‰t
Hòa vinh dÜ«ng huy‰t
Hòa vinh thanh nhiŒt
Hòa vinh ÇiŠu kinh
Hòa vinh huy‰t thÓi nhiŒt
Hòa bi‹u lš
Hòa vÎ
Hoà vÎ thÜ ng¿c
Hòa vÎ ÇÎnh thÀn
Hòa vÎ thanh ph‰
Hòa trÜ©ng vÎ
Hòa vÎ l®i trÜ©ng
Hòa trÜ©ng tiêu trŒ
Hòa l®I khí toàn cÖ th‹
Hòa trung giáng nghÎch
Hòa trung tiêu thÃp nhiŒt
Khí häi . Khí xung
Khúc trì. ñåi Chung
Huy‰t häi
Thiên xu
Ph‰ du
Kÿ môn
Cách du
ñåi læng
Xung dÜÖng. LŒ Çoài
NgÜ t‰
LÜÖng môn
Thû tam lš
Túc tam lš. Thiên xu
Thân trø
LÜÖng Khâu
NhÆt nguyŒt
74
Tác døng khinh : Tä trØ th¿c tà ( éliminateur de l’énergie
perverse )
PHONG Tà :
Khu phong giäi bi‹u
Khu phong tà ª bi‹u lš
Khu phong tà
Khu phong thông låc
Khu phong tà ª ÇÌnh s†, t¡c máu não
Khu phong minh møc
Khu phong thông nhï
Khu phong dÜÖng trŒ
Khu phong tí ª Çàu gÓi
Trøc phong ª hå chi
Khu phong l®i ræng kh§p
Hàn- phong hàn :
Khu phong hàn
Khu phong hàn tí
Trøc phong hàn tí, cܧc khí,nhÒi máu cÖ
tim
Trøc phong tí hàn, nhiŒt.
Trøc hàn xuÓng hå tiêu ra ngoài
Trøc hàn ª cách mô, æn không xuÓng
Trø phong hàn dÎ Ùng ª mÛi
Trøc phong hàn, teo cÖ b¡p chân
NHIäT- PHONG NHIäT :
Tä phong nhiŒt ph‰, l®i hÀu
Khº huy‰t nhiŒt
Khº nhiŒt do løc dâm ª bi‹u
Khu phong giäi bi‹u nhiŒt, l®I kh§p, nhï,
møc
Trøc phong hÕa thông nhï møc, phong
hÕa viêm gan
Khu phong nhiŒt ª m¡t
Trøc phong nhiŒt teo cÖ b¡p
Khúc trì
Khâu khÜ
ñåi tr». ñÎa thÜÖng
Côn lôn
Chí âm
TÙ båch
Thính h¶i
Hành gian
TÃt quan. ñ¶c tœ
Phong thÎ
Giáp xa
Âm læng tuyŠn
Ngoåi khâu
DÜÖng giao
HiŒp khê
Âm giao
Trung Çình
ThØa linh
o Quang minh
NgÜ t‰
Khúc tråch
Ngoåi quan
Phong trì
Túc lâm khÃp
ñÒng tº liêu. DÜÖng båch. Møc song
x Quang minh
75
Trøc phong nhiŒt ÇÜ©ng ti‹u và sinh døc
( nhiÍm trùng ÇÜ©ng ti‹u và sinh døc )
Khu phong n¶I nhiŒt
Khu phong tán hÕa
Khu phong ti‰t hÕa
Khu phong ti‰t nhiŒt
Khº khí uÃt nhiŒt tam tiêu
Khu phong l®I ph‰ :
Túc ngÛ lš
Nhân trung
ThØa khÃp. Nghênh hÜÖng
ñÀu Duy. DÜÖng Khê.
r phong
Quan Xung
Liêt khuy‰t. Thái uyên
76
Tác døng hoåt :Møc Çích tiêu ٠džng ( activateur )
TIÊU VIÊM, − :
Tiêu ban
Tiêu Ù
Tiêu viêm các loåi, l®i thûy thÃp
Tiêu viêm ph‰ nhiŒt Ƕc, thÜ®ng tiêu
Tiêu viêm ÇÜ©ng ti‹u, sinh døc
Tiêu viêm ph‰ khí quän
Tiêu viêm thÆn
Tiêu viêm sÜng ræng
Tiêu viêm sâu ræng dܧi
Tiêu viêm ræng l®i, tuy‰n giáp
Tiêu viêm gÓi
Tiêu viêm vú, lÜng, chân, m¡t.
Tiêu viêm Ça kh§p, nhÙc mÕi
Tiêu viêm håch vú, håch bËn háng
Tiêu viêm tuy‰n vú
Tiêu viêm nh†t vú
Tiêu viêm håch c°
Tiêu viêm håch nách
Tiêu viêm bä vai
Tiêu viêm miŒng ,tai, lÜ«i, h†ng, gáy.
Tiêu sÜng hå chi ( Çau sÜng bøng dܧi)
Båch huy‰t cÃp tính
Tiêu viêm gan, xÖ gan
Tiêu viêm sÕi mÆt
Tæng båch cÀu kháng viêm
Tiêu viêm sÜng ræng nܧu
Xích båch ǧi
HiŒp båch
Can du
Tam tiêu du
Xích tråch
Khúc cÓt.Bàng quang du, thÆn du. Trung
c¿c.Tam âm giao.
Phù båch
Thûy phân
Giác tôn
DÎch môn
ñÀu khi‰u âm
TÃt quan
ñÎa ngÛ h¶i
DÜÖng phø
Hå liêm
Chiên trung,Khúc trì
Chiên trung. ñåi læng.Thi‰u tråch. Du
phû. Ñy trung.
Thû ngÛ lš. Thiên dÛ
Thiên trì
Kiên Liêu
Ôn l¿u
Bào hoang
Can du, ThÆn du, HuyŠn chung
Can,tÿ, ñÓc du.Kÿ môn, huy‰t häi, Tam
âm GIao.DÜÖng læng.
Chi cÃu, DÜÖng læng.
ñåi chùy.Khúc trì. Tÿ du, Tam âm Giao,
Túc tam Lš.
DÜÖng Khê, NhÎ gian
Khí häi. ñ§i måch
77
Tác døng táo :Møc Çích làm khô ÇŠ trØ thÃp
( Contre-humidité )
Khº thÃp tr†c
Khº thÃp tiêu trŒ
Khº thÃp thûy
Khº thÃp nhiŒt
Khº thÃp nhiŒt hå tiêu
Khº thÃp tí tiêu viêm c£ng chân
Khº thÃp thông ti‹u
Trøc phong thÃp
Khu phong hóa thÃp
Khu phong thÃp nhiŒt
Khu phong thÃp khí trŒ ª lÜng, mông,
Çùi, chân
Khí häi
Phøc lÜu
Tÿ du. ThÆn du
Can du
Thái xung
Trung Çô
Âm cÓc
Yêu du. Tam âm giao. Bàng quang du
LÜÖng khâu
Lao cung. HuyŠn chung
Hoàn khiêu
Tác døng tr†ng : Møc Çích an thÀn, trÃn thÓng
thÀn kinh, giäm Çau ( anxiolytique )
LÝ KH´ ( do khí làm Çau ) :
Lš khí thÜ hung cách thÜ®ng tiêu
Lš khí trung tiêu
Lš khí hå tiêu
Lš khí cÖ ( do gân cÖ làm Çau )
Lš hå tiêu, l®I thÃp nhiŒt
Lš vÎ khí trÃn thÓng
Lš khí hòa vÎ
Lš khí hòa vÎ trÃn thÓng
Lš trÜ©ng hòa vÎ
Lš khí Çåi trÜ©ng
Lš khí Çåi ti‹u trÜ©ng, trÃn thÓng lÜng
bøng
Lš khí tÿ vÎ
LÝ HUYrT ( DO HUYrT LàM ñAU )
Khích môn. Chiên trung
VÎ thÜÖng
Trung c¿c. Quan nguyên.
Nhiên cÓc. .ñåi Çôn
Công tôn .Chí dÜÖng
ñ§I måch
N¶I Çình
Ki‰n lš. C¿ khuy‰t. ñªm du
N¶i quan
ThÜ®ng c¿ hÜ
ñåi trÜ©ng du
Duy Çåo
ThÜ®ng quän. Túc tam lš
78
Lš kinh ǧi hòa vinh huy‰t
Lš huy‰t trŒ bào cung
Lš huy‰t hòa tÿ
Lš khí, hòa tÿ, vinh huy‰t
TRƒN TH–NG :
TrÃn thÓng phong hàn
TrÃn thÓng phong viêm gÓi
TrÃn thÓng, cܧc khí, phong hàn
TrÃn thÓng vÎ hàn
TrÃn thÓng thông låc
TrÃn thÓng thÀn kinh, lÜng, bøng dܧi
TrÃn thÓng thÀn kinh, phøc hÒi š thÙc
Khí Häi
Côn lôn
ñÎa cÖ
Tÿ du
Trung Ƕc. Ngoåi Khâu
TÃt quan
DÜÖng giao
HiŒp khê
H®p cÓc
Âm bao
ThÀn Çình
Tác døng cÓ,sáp,chÌ, liÍm : Møc Çích gi»
cho khÕi thoát (anti-échappant )
CÓ bi‹u dÜÖng kinh
CÓ bi‹u tiŠm hÜ dÜÖng
HÒi dÜÖng cÓ thoát
CÓ thÆn, b° khí hÒi dÜÖng.
CÓ ích tinh b° thÆn
ChÌ huy‰t
ChÌ khái ( cÀm ho )
HÆu khê
Âm khích
ThÀn khuy‰t
Quan Nguyên
MŒnh môn. Chí thÃt
Kh°ng tÓi
Thái Uyên
Tác døng thanh : Làm mát, giäm nhiŒt, giäi Ƕc.
Thanh huy‰t :
Thanh huy‰t nhiŒt
Thanh huy‰t, l†c máu Ƕc, máu Ù
Thanh ti‰t huy‰t nhiŒt, giäi Ƕc toàn
Huy‰t Häi
Cách du
Xích Tråch.Ñy trung
79
thân
Thanh giáng, lÜÖng huy‰t
Thanh nhiŒt khí huy‰t, tiêu n¶i nhiŒt.
Thanh tûy nhiŒt
Thanh dÜ«ng huy‰t
Thanh vinh , lÜÖng huy‰t
Thanh lÜÖng huy‰t
Giäi Ƕc thÀn kinh
Thanh nhiŒt khí :
ª bi‹u :
Thanh bi‹u nhiŒt
Giäi bi‹u tà dÜÖng kinh. Thanh não, giäi
bi‹u, não có nܧc.
Thanh thÓi nhiŒt, giäi bi‹u
Giäi bi‹u nhiŒt
Giäi phong bi‹u nhiŒt
Giäi nhiŒt bi‹u lš
Thanh hÕa ti‰t phong nhiŒt
Thanh trØ thÃp nhiŒt thông ra bi‹u
Thanh phong nhiŒt, thông nhï, møc, l®I
kh§p
Thanh ph‰ giäi bi‹u tà
Ÿ LÝ : TæNG PHÑ :
PHr :
Thanh ph‰ nhiŒt
Thanh ph‰ khí
Thanh tåp ph‰ khí
Thanh ph‰ hóa Çàm
Thanh ph‰ khí nghÎch
Thanh ph‰ hÜ nhiŒt
Thanh ph‰ l®I hÀu mát h†ng
Thanh ti‰t ph‰ giáng trÜ©ng vÎ
Thanh ph‰ ÇiŠu thûy ( nܧc trong ph°I )
Thanh thông phong hÕa ph‰ khi‰u (mÛi)
ñåi-TI”U TRЩNG :
Thanh ti‰t phong hÕa trÜ©ng vÎ
Khích Môn
Nhân trung
HuyŠn Chung
Khúc trì
ñåi læng
Thanh lãnh uyên. Hành gian
SuÃt cÓc
H®p cÓc. Khúc trì. Kh°ng TÓi
ñåi chùy
ThÜÖng dÜÖng
Ngoåi quan. Chi chánh
ñåi tr»
DÜÖng trì
Tam tiêu du
Âm cÓc
Phong trì
ñào Çåo
NgÜ t‰. ñào Çåo
Thiên lÎch. Thiên ÇÌnh
Thái Uyên
Chiên trung
Thi‰u thÜÖng
Ph‰ du
ThÜÖng dÜÖng. Thiên ÇÌnh
H®p cÓc
Thiên lÎch
Nghênh hÜÖng
Kiên ngung
80
Thanh trØ phong thÃp nhiŒt, hòa vÎ
Thanh thÃp nhiŒt trÜ©ng vÎ
Thanh Ǫm vÎ thÃp nhiŒt
Thanh vÎ nhiŒt hóa thÃp trŒ
Thanh ti‰t vÎ nhiŒt hóa trŒ
Thanh ti‰t thÃp hÕa
Thanh phong hàn nhiŒt, vÎ chÌ thÓng.
CAN-ñŸM :
Thanh ti‰t phong thÃp nhiŒt can,Ǫm
Thanh thông nhï khi‰u
Thanh phong thÃp nhiŒt trŒ Ǫm ª kinh
låc, gân måch, mông.
Thanh ti‰t phong thÃp nhiŒt, tûy nhiŒt,
Ǫm hÕa, ª kinh låc.
Thanh tÙc phong hÕa nhiŒt trŒ ª can
Ǫm, thông nhï, minh møc, hóa Çàm
nhiŒt, tiêu viêm, hå áp, thanh dÜÖng
hÕa.
Thanh can hÕa, ti‰t hÕa hå tiêu
Thanh ti‰t can hÕa, thông thûy hå tiêu
Thanh phong hÕa nhiŒt
Thanh thÃp nhiŒt hå tiêu
THáN- BàNG QUANG :
Thanh thÃp thûy nhiŒt, l®I bàng quang
Thanh ti‰t hÕa, tÜ thûy, minh møc
Thanh thÃp nhiŠu, tiêu trŒ bàng quang
và hå tiêu, ÇiŠu dÎch, b° thÆn, nhuÆn táo
Thanh thÆn nhiŒt,giáng âm hÕa.
B° thân âm dÜÖng, thanh thÓi hÜ nhiŒt
Thanh ti‰t hÕa, thæng thûy mát c° h†ng
ra nܧc mi‰ng.
Thanh thÓi thÆn nhiŒt
Thanh thÃp nhiŒt Bàng quang
Thanh ti‰t quy‰t khí, trØ thÃp, thông
bi‹u, b° thân, l®I hå tiêu
Lao cung
ThÜ®ng c¿ hÜ
DÜÖng cÜÖng
Giäi khê
N¶I Çình
Thính h¶i
HiŒp khê.
ñªm du
Thính h¶i
DÜÖng læng tuyŠn
HuyŠn chung
Túc lâm KhÃp
Hành gian
Khúc tuyŠn
Túc lâm khÃp. Nghênh hÜÖng
Thái xung
Thûy Çåo
Tình minh
Phøc lÜu
DÛng tuyŠn. Hoang du
Thái khê
Chi‰u häi
Nhiên cÓc .Hoang du.
Khúc tuyŠn
Âm cÓc
81
TÂM- TÂM BàO :
Thanh huy‰t nhiŒt tâm hÕa
Thanh giáng lÜÖng huy‰t
Thanh hÕa tâm bào, tam tiêu
Thanh vinh, lÜÖng huy‰t, hå áp
Thanh tâm, thÓi nhiŒt, khai khi‰u
Thanh tâm bào, hóa Çàm
Thanh tâm hÕa, tiŠm hÜ dÜÖng
Thanh phong nhiŒt ª tâm
Thanh tiêu viêm nhiŒt quanh vai
Thanh tâm, ÇiŠu huy‰t, ôn dÜÖng hÒi
nghÎch
KINH-LæC :
Thanh hÕa nghÎch kinh âm
Thanh hóa thÃp nhiŒt kinh dÜÖng
Thanh nhiŒt,thæng dÜÖng cÙu nghÎch,
chÌnh måch
Thanh, tiêu phong n¶I nhiŒt,ÇiŠu hòa khí
nghÎch âm dÜÖng ,ÇiŠu hô hÃp cÃp cÙu
Thanh nhiŒt kinh låc
Thanh nhiŒt phong tà ª não
TAM TIÊU :
Thanh nhiŒt thÜ®ng tiêu
Thanh nhiŒt giäi Ƕc thÜ®ng tiêu
Thanh tåp khí thÜ®ng tiêu
Thanh tâm, giáng nghÎch thÜÖng tiêu
Thanh tam tiêu, giáng nghÎch
Thanh can huy‰t thÃp nhiŒt hå tiêu
ñ„U ¹C- TH„N KINH :
Thanh giáng lÜÖng huy‰t, ÇÎnh tâm an
thÀn
Thanh thÀn chí, ÇiŠu tâm khí
Thanh tâm bào, ÇÎnh tâm an thÀn
Thanh vinh lÜÖng huy‰t, hå áp, an thÀn
Thanh tâm hÕa hòa vÎ thÃp nhiŒt, lÜÖng
huy‰t, an thÀn
Khúc tråch
Khích môn
N¶I quan. Gian sÙ
ñåi læng
Trung xung
Thi‰u häi
Âm Khích
Thi‰u tråch
BÌnh phong
…n Båch
Liêm tuyŠn
Chí dÜÖng
TÓ liêu
Nhân trung
DÜÖng trì
Kinh cÓt
Trung phû
Xích tråch
Thái Uyên
Khúc tråch
Chi cÃu
TÙ quan ( Hành gian. Thái Xung )
Khích Môn
Gian sÙ
N¶I quan
ñåi læng
Lao cung
82
Thanh thông tâm, tâm bào, hóa Çàm,
ÇÎnh thÀn chí
Thanh tâm hÜ dÜÖng, an thÀn
Thanh thÀn chí, rÓi loån tâm thÀn
Thanh thÀn chí, khai tâm khi‰u
Thanh thÀn chí, trøc n¶I nhiŒt
Thanh thÀn chí, giäi bi‹u nhiŒt
Thanh thÀn chí do phong nhiŒt kinh låc,
nhiŒt k‰t ti‹u trÜ©ng
ñÎnh thÀn, thông nhï
Thanh tâm ÇÎnh thÀn, ôn dÜÖng hÒi
nghÎch
Thanh thÀn chí, hÒi nghÎch quy‰t khí
Thanh vÎ nhiŒt hóa thÃp trŒ an thÀn chí
Thanh tiŠt tà nhiŒt trÜ©ng vÎ, an thÀn
Thanh giáng âm hÕa nghÎch, ÇÎnh thÀn
Thanh thÆn, hòa huy‰t, b° ích tinh thÀn
Thanh ti‰t hÕa thæng thûy, thanh thÀn
chí
Phøc hÒi chÙc næng ÇÀu s†
ñiŠu dÜ«ng tâm khí, thanh thÀn chí
Thanh vinh lÜÖng huy‰t, minh møc, ÇÎnh
thÀn
Hoåt låc, khai khi‰u, tÌnh thÀn
Thanh thÀn chí, thÜ cân måch
Thanh não, ÇÎnh thÀn, khu phong
Thanh tâm ÇÎnh thÀn do khí huy‰t suy
nhܮc
ThÜ ng¿c, ÇÎnh thÀn
Thanh ph‰ nhiŒt, ÇÎnh thÀn, b° hÜ t°n
Thanh não ÇÎnh thÀn
Thanh thÀn chí, thông khi‰u, l®I kh§p
Thanh thÀn chí, ti‰t khí hÕa, l®I quan ti‰t
Khai khi‰u ÇÎnh thÀn, ti‰t nhiŒt dÜÖng
kinh.
TrÃn an tinh thÀn, phøc hÒi kš Ùc
− nܧc trong s†, ÇÀu, m¥t, m¡t, sÜ©n,
ng¿c.
Thi‰u häi
Âm khích
ThÀn môn
Thi‰u xung
HÆu khê
Chi chánh
Ti‹u häi
Thính cung
…n båch
ñåi Çôn
Giäi khê
LŒ Çoài
DÛng tuyŠn
ñåi chung
Chi‰u häi
HuyŠn Ly
Tâm du
Can du
B¶c tham
Thân Måch
Kinh cÓt
C¿ Khuy‰t
CÜu VÏ
ñào Çåo
ñåi chùy
Á Môn
Phong phû
Bách h¶i
ThÀn Çình
Hãm cÓc
83
Tác døng ti‰t : Mª s¿ Çóng ch¥t (dilateur et secréteur)
TÁN : làm tan s¿ k‰t tø
Tán phong nhiŒt
Tán phong nhiŒt, thông s»a
Tán phong thÃp kinh låc
Tán hàn ª ngÛ tång
Tán Ù
Tán Ù ª lÜng
Tán Ù k‰t trÜ©ng phû
Tán tà ræng, m¥t, m¡t
Ÿ TæNG PHÑ :
PHr :
Ti‰t ph‰ viêm, giáng khí ghÎch
Ti‰t ph‰ nhiŒt
Ti‰t hÕa nghÎch 12 kinh
ñæI TRЩNG :
Ti‰t tä nhiŒt trÜ©ng vÎ
Ti‰t tà nhiŒt, ÇiŠu phû khí
Ti‰t ph‰ khí giáng trÜ©ng vÎ
Tán phong hÕa trÜ©ng vÎ
TAM TIÊU :
Ti‰t phong nhiŒt, thông låc tam tiêu
Ti‰t tà nhiŒt nhï khi‰u
TÂM :
Ti‰t tä nhiŒt, khai tâm khi‰u
T² :
Ti‰t nhiŒt giäi b‰ tâm vÎ
CAN :
Ti‰t quy‰t khí hÒi nghÎch
Ti‰t can hÕa, t¡t phong dÜÖng, thông trŒ
Nghênh hÜÖng
Thi‰u Tråch
Phi dÜÖng
ChÜÖng Môn
C¿ cÓt
Ân Môn
Chi cÃu
ThØa tÜÖng
Xích tråch
NgÜ t‰
Thi‰u thÜÖng
ThÜÖng dÜÖng. LŒ Çoài
Tam gian
H®p cÓc
DÜÖng khê
r phong
Nhï Môn
Thi‰u xung
ñåi Çô
ñåi Çôn
Hành gian
84
VÎ :
Ti‰t phong hÕa ª ÇÀu, giäm Çau
Ti‰t nhiŒt trŒ ª vÎ
Ti‰t phong nhiŒt trÜ©ng vÎ
THáN :
SÖ ti‰t hå tiêu
Ti‰t hÕa thæng thûy l®I hÀu
Ti‰t quy‰t khí, tÜ thÆn, trØ thÃp, thông
bi‹u, l®I hå tiêu, l®I hÀu
ñŸM :
Ti‰t phong nhiŒt ª m¡t
Ti‰t hÕa do phong hÕa ª m¡t
BàNG QUANG :
Ti‰t hÕa, tÜ thûy, minh møc
Ti‰t nhiŒt can Ǫm
Ti‰t phong nhiŒt tai, m¡t
MæCH ñ–C :
Ti‰t hÕa khu phong ª ÇÀu
Ti‰t nhiŒt dÜÖng kinh
ñÀu duy
N¶i Çình
LŒ Çoài
Thûy tuyŠn
Chi‰u Häi
Âm cÓc
ñÒng tº liêu
DÜÖng båch
Tình minh
ñªm du
r phong. ñÒng tº liêu
Phong phû
Bách H¶i
85
Tác døng hóa :
Hóa Ù
Hóa hàn thÃp trŒ
Hóa thÃp nhiŒt
Hóa thÃp trung tiêu
Hóa thÃp tam tiêu
Hóa tích trŒ trung tiêu hàn
Hoá thÃp trŒ trung tiêu
Hóa thÃp trŒ kinh låc
Hóa thÃp khu phong
Hóa thÃp giáng nghÎch
Hóa thÃp hòa vÎ
Hóa thÃp tiêu tích
Hóa l®i thûy thÃp
Hóa thÃp b° thÆn
Hóa tích trŒ trÜ©ng vÎ
Hóa trŒ Çåi trÜ©ng
Çàm nh§t :
Hóa Çàm tr†c
Hóa Çàm thanh ph‰
Hóa Çàm nh§t
Hóa Çàm l®I y‰t
Hóa Çàm chÌ khái
Hóa Çàm thông låc
Hóa Çàm thÃp
Hoá Çàm tiêu Ù
Hóa Çàm Ù do hàn
Khº Çàm hòa vÎ
ñàm khí hÕa nghÎch
Cách du
ThÀn khuy‰t
Chí dÜÖng. DÜÖng cÜÖng
NhÆt nguyŒt. Khâu khÜ
Thái båch
Thiên tïnh
ChÜÖng Môn
Âm læng tuyŠn. C¿ Khuy‰t
DÜÖng læng tuyŠn
LÜÖng Khâu. Túc tam lš
ThÜ®ng quän
Xung dÜÖng
Trung quän
Chí thÃt
Côn lôn
LÜÖng môn. Ti‹u trÜ©ng du
ñåi trÜ©ng du
ThÜ®ng quän
Chiên trung
Tº cung
Thiên Ƕt
Thái Uyên
Thi‰u Häi
Thiên tïnh
Kÿ Môn
ChÜÖng môn
Gian sÙ
Liêm tuyŠn
86
Áp døng Bát pháp:
Hãn :
Trong trÜ©ng h®p Bi‹u nhiŒt, Th¿c nhiŒt, thûy thûng, ma chÄn. Sau Çó phäi b° khí,
huy‰t.
ChÓng chÌ ÇÎnh : Không ÇÜ®c dùng phép hãn trong trÜ©ng h®p bŒnh hÜ, bŒnh khô
thi‰u tân dÎch.
Tä :
Trong trÜ©ng h®p bón uÃt nhiŒt tØ ba ngày trª lên ª hå tiêu. Dùng thanh nhiŒt ª
tång phû, ª trÜ©ng vÎ, ª bàng quang, tä Ƕc tích tø, miŒnh h†ng khô, ki‰t lœ, bao tº
ÇÀy cÙng.Tä xong phäi b° hÜ t°n.
ChÓng chÌ ÇÎnh : Không ÇÜ®c dùng phép tä trong trÜ©ng h®p âm hÜ, tân dÎch khô
kiŒt, vô l¿c y‰u sÙc, æn ít, thi‰u khí.
Th° :
Cho mºa Ƕc tÓ, Çàm chÆn, uÃt thÜ®ng tiêu.
ChÓng chÌ ÇÎnh : không ÇÜ®c cho mºa trong trÜ©ng h®p khí hÜ.
Hòa :
Trong trÜ©ng h®p bŒnh bán bi‹u bán lš, chÌ thanh nhiŒt mà không cho ra mÒ hôi,
trong trÜ©ng h®p nghi ng© bŒnh hÜ th¿c thác tåp.
Thanh :
Thanh th¿c nhiŒt thì cho ti‰t tä nhiŒt.
Phi‰m nhiŒt ( ngÜ©I nóng hâm hÃp ) thì thanh nhiŒt
SÓt hÜ chÌ ôn b° ( làm Ãm ), chÓng chÌ ÇÎnh thanh ho¥c ti‰t tä së làm lånh ngÜ©I,
ngÜ©I h‰t nóng rÒi bÎ nóng låi do phong còn, phäi dùng khu phong giäi Ƕc.
Ôn :
Trong trÜ©ng h®p bŒnh hàn, tà thÃp, phong hàn, dÜÖng hÜ, nhiŠu Çàn nh§t.
Hàn n¥ng nhiŠu không ôn mà phäi nhiŒt b°. Hàn trung tiêu thì lš trung. Hàn hå tiêu
thì dùng tÙ nghÎch. Khí hÜ thì Ôn. Thoát huy‰t, âm hÜ thì không ÇÜ®c ôn.
Tiêu :
Th¿c phäi công hå, hÜ phäi b°. Tiêu dùng trong trÜ©ng h®p ngÜ©i hÜ nhÜ®c có
nhiŒt tà, không b° không tä ÇÜ®c phäi dùng phép tiêu, nhÜ làm tiêu Çàm, tiêu thÙc
æn, tiêu khí tích, huy‰t tích, tiêu trÜng hà, sán khí, loa lÎch. Bܧu chai mà khí hÜ, tÿ
suy, không dùng phép tiêu mà phäi b° khí,b° tÿ huy‰t.
TrÃn :
Làm giäm Çau trÃn thÓng thÀn kinh, an thÀn.
Sáp :
Ngæn gi» không cho thoát mÃt tinh, khí, huy‰t, thûy dÎch làm mÃt nܧc trong bŒnh
toát mÒ hôi ÇÀm Çìa, tiêu chäy không ngØng, máu chäy nhiŠu.
87
B° :
TÜ b° : B° tØ tØ. TuÃn b° : B° månh. ñiŠu b° : VØa ch»a bŒnh vØa b°. Ti‰p b°; là b°
thêm âm ho¥c b° thêm dÜÖng, m¶t trong hai. B° khí hÜ ; làm cho tÿ và vÎ månh.
DODUCNGOC
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