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What are the different types of drywall anchors, and what are the advantages of each? I recently put up wire shelving in my pantry, and spent forever figuring out what type of drywall anchor I should use. I even found several types that I didn't even know existed. It might be good to have a reference page for drywall anchors. So, what type of anchors have you used, and for what projects? <Q> I find that they are tough enough to hang just about anything. <S> Aside from those, the only other anchors I've found that I like are the toggle-bolt type, which are more useful if you need to hang something from the ceiling. <A> This article has a beautiful summary of the different types of anchors. <A> There are plastic anchors . <S> My suggestion, avoid them like the plague. <S> I much prefer the self-drilling that Eric posted, easier to install and much stronger hold in my experience. <S> With these, you have <S> to pre-drill the hole, get it too small and it doesn't fit <S> and you have to drill again, or it gets stuck partially <S> and you have to rip it out or try to mash it in. <S> Get it too big and the anchor doesn't do its job. <S> To get them to hold well, you have to get the perfect size hole. <A> Here is a similar answer from another question though this question is more multi-purpose. <S> There are several kinds of drywall anchors and they each have their own weight rating. <S> Some work by drilling a small hole and tapping in a plastic sleeve and others work by drilling a bigger hole and screwing a plastic sleeve and there are others where you drill a hole and the metal butterfly expands behind the drywall <S> know as molly bolts. <S> Then there are toggle bolts that are spring loaded metal wings that fold and have a long machine screw. <S> The biggest difference between each is how much weight they are rated to hold and how bit a hole you need to put into the drywall (and usually the bigger the hole in the drywall the more weight they can hold. <S> I also found this useful link that has pictures and describes all the types mentioned (except the SecureMount of course . . . <S> those are new and very much a niche product). <A> Up to 150lbs or so, nylon toggle anchors have been unbeatable for me over many years of use. <S> They don't eat away the drywall and work loose like the metal ones do. <S> They are almost invisible when not in use and when you do notice them, it's just a clean looking hole.
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Recently I saw anchors where you drill a 1 inch hole in the drywall and this big contraption grips the inside of the drywall and is effectively a bigger version of toggle bolts (made by Moen and they're called SecureMount ). I almost always use the self-drilling stud solver type anchors.
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Wood for boarding a loft? I want to board out my loft - just for easy storage of things like tools, boxes, old clothes, suitcases, small unused furtniture etc (i.e. nothing too heavy). I am wondering what kind of boards to buy for this purpose. Most of the boards I see advertised for doing this are chipboard, but they also vary widely in price. What's the recommended approach considering I want it to last for 10 years or more? <Q> Go to 5/8 minimum if your joists are on 2' centers. <S> I personally don't agree with the advice to use plywood. <S> Chipboard is fine: it's strong, and it's made using waste materials <S> so it's more ecologically sound to use it where it's appropriate. <S> It's not appropriate for applications that are exposed to the elements in any way: in those cases plywood is more durable <S> so justifies the 2x cost and the extra environmental impact. <S> Chipboard does have a strength axis, which you might as well take advantage of it: you want the joists running across the short side, <S> i.e. 5 joists on every 4x8 sheet if the joists are on 2' centers. <S> Chipboard made for flooring has a tongue-and-groove along the long side. <S> That's because while the short sides are supported by the joists, the long sides bridge the joists. <S> Locking a tongue into a groove prevents sagging between the floor joists. <S> Obviously not a big deal for you storage loft, but if it only costs a few more bucks for the tongue-and-groove <S> I'd get that. <S> I've only seen that in 3/4" and 1", BTW, so if you get that you'll have a proper floor up there that you could hold a neighborhood dance on. <A> My storage attic is just some plywood sheets over the rafters/insulation. <S> Just nailed them right to the ceiling joists. <S> My attic probably isn't as large as your loft but if you're not looking to make a living space out of it the plywood should probably be fine for you. <A> As Scott mentioned, plywood will probably be fine. <S> I just used 1/2 inch plywood in mine. <S> It's a bit more expensive, but also much more durable if you're going to be walking on it. <S> One thing to think about (that I didn't) is that if you are in a cold climate you'll typically want the insulation in the loft to come up several inches over the tops of the floor joists (assuming blown in insulation here). <S> If that's the case, you may not be able to attach the plywood directly to the joists without compressing the insulation (which is not good).
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For occassional storage chipboard or any plywood 1/2" or greater will be fine. I would probably recommend you use "real" plywood though rather than the chipboard stuff.
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What are the pros and cons of different types of windows? I live in the North Eastern corner of US, and my house has 50 year old single-pane wooden windows. They held up not too bad, considering, but now I want to replace them all. Things that are important to me are: Decent energy efficiency (this, hopefully, is easy to judge -- the numbers are "printed on the box") Durability (this is a tough one to know up front. All I know is that I hate broken seals) Maintenance free-ness Not astronomically expensive. Coming from the IT world, I usually obsess with specs and numbers, and new shiny things tend to excite me -- after reading various stuff online for a bit, my thinking goes: "vinyl is cheap for a reason, wood is nice looking but requires maintenance, and fiberglass is where it's at!" But is it even the right approach? Should I stop obsessing about technology, and instead focus on finding a great manufacturer (under the assumption that great vinyl window will live longer then an average fiberglass one). I guess my actual questions are: Is window technology important? And if it is, then what's good? What are the good window manufacturers?What else am I missing (let's talk about just picking the right windows, and not even start on installation) <Q> I replaced the widows in my house this spring, and you're asking a lot of the same questions I asked. <S> You also need to consider the removal of the old windows, installation of the new ones, and the finish work - because chances are, all the trim, and all of the interior sills will also need to be replaced. <S> Installation can actually be 50% of the cost of the job, and a poor installation will ruin any value you might get from buying a top-notch window. <S> There are a few things to consider when looking at the windows themselves. <S> First, as you point out, is the construction. <S> I ended up going with vinyl - again, <S> a quality vinyl window and a cheap vinyl window are two different things - the local shop here had examples of a number of different windows cut open so you can see the difference. <S> Cheap windows may not be insulated, or may be made up of different pieces glued together, rather than a single extruded piece. <S> Next, the glass. <S> You can get single, double, or even triple panes. <S> Some use argon between the panes <S> , some don't - the sealed, argon-filled windows offer better insulation. <S> Then there's the low-e coating on the glass <S> - it can be applied in different ways, which will affect the durability and effectiveness of the window. <S> You need to consider casement vs single hung vs double hung. <S> Are they on a 2nd or 3rd story? <S> You'll probably want to get a window that allows you to clean the outside without having to get up on a ladder - most double-hung windows will allow you to clean it from the inside of the house. <S> If you're putting windows into a bedroom, you have to allow for a certain size for egress - you may need to go with a casement window in that case. <S> The bottom line is, check around - get at least 3 estimates, unless you're planning on installing them yourself. <S> See what's included in the estimate <S> - one of our estimates included a single line item for "Installation", while another had 3 pages of details, down to the number of board-feet of trim, cans of foam insulation, and the cost of the building permit. <S> Guess which one we went with? <A> Good windows are very important in New England. <S> Growing up in an old house in New Hampshire I can tell you first hand that you can feel the heat getting sucked out the windows. <S> Now technically I don't know much about what makes a window energy efficient, but I do know that people who do know a lot about it give them an "ENERGY STAR" rating. <S> Home Depot will let you filter by windows that have this rating, then you can sort by price. <S> This doesn't answer your entire question but will give you two of you're bullet points (cheap + energy efficient). <S> If you happen to live in Massachusetts you can give the people at http://www.masssave.com <S> a call <S> and they'll come down and give you a free energy assessment, which I would guess include windows. <S> Finally, windows qualify for some of those government rebate programs. <S> See: http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=tax_credits.tx_index <A> I'd recommend look at the Low-Emissivity and Argon glass types. <S> I recently installed them in my house. <S> They are a little more expensive than regular windows, but they save on cooling and heating costs. <S> My Low-E windows are double paned. <S> Also, look at good insulation and caulking on/around your windows. <A> Vinyl windows may yellow and/or deform under intense heat and sunlight. <S> That being said, I live in a place that has a lot of shade and has normal summers and winters <S> and I'm very happy with my vinyl sliding glass doors.
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First, the cost of the windows themselves is only part of the equation. One important factor when choosing a material is environmental. Vinyl may also become brittle in extreme cold. So if you live in a place where you regularly expect extremes in temperature, I would avoid vinyl.
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Why are my deck boards of uneven width? I bought 12-foot-long 5/4 x 6 in pressure-treated pine deck board from Home Depot. Not until I laid them down did I notice that the boards' width tapers significantly toward the ends of each board. See the picture below. My deck is finished (as of last night—yay!), but just so I know for next time: is this kind of variation in width something I have to expect? Or was I just unlucky with what Home Depot had this week? Or can I avoid this buy shopping elsewhere? <Q> I've never noticed that before, but Home Depot sources their lumber from different mills, so they may vary slightly from batch to batch. <S> It may also even out a bit as the wood dries. <S> One thing I did find, at least in my area, is that the 5/4 deck boards from Home Depot are significantly different than the ones at Lowes. <S> The Lowes ones are slightly narrower but a bit thicker and the depot ones are thinner but slightly wider. <S> Was very annoying when I got some boards from one place and more later from another only to find that they weren't really the same dimensions. <A> If the boards have been stacked with boards of different lengths, then the longest boards will have one end sticking out of the pile. <S> This end will dry out more quickly than the rest of the board. <S> Pressure-treated are usually quite wet when you buy them, and become narrower as they dry. <S> That is why it is also a good idea too <S> have a very small gap between the deck boards when you lay them down, as this is likely to widen as the boards dry out. <A> It should match perfectly. <S> I'd send it back and get a new lot as it's not fit for purpose. <S> The edges could catch and splinter which can be a problem with bare feet. <S> You can mitigate it by sanding the mismatch edges and sealing it with a good decking oil if you can't be bothered.
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This may come from different moisture levels in the wood.
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Does decking board orientation really matter? I've been told that decking boards should always be installed "bark side up" so that the boards crown (and shed water) as they age rather than cup (and collect water). But then I've also heard that it should be done the other way around. And I've also heard that it just doesn't matter one way or the other - just put the "nicest" side up. So, which way is best, or doesn't it matter at all? <Q> I would say crown side up and shed water. <S> The deck that was on my house when I bought it was cup side up and is in horrible shape. <S> That could be from the fact that the people never took care of it but being in a rather wet/snowy climate didn't help. <S> I'm sure pooled water of any kind can't be good, even on treated wood. <A> Obviously this helps shed water and doesn't collect ice in pockets in the winter. <S> Don't mix the methods as this can result in a very unattractive surface after a couple of years. <S> Always be sure to use treaded fasteners, never galvanized common nails and be sure to sink coated screws or stainless steel ring shank nails. <S> make them flush or slightly below the wood surface to eliminate tripping hazards or use under deck clip systems. <S> If you find some boards that have a bad finish on the side you want to expose, don't use them! <S> Bring them back and have them replaced. <S> This may sound like a pain, but flawed wood with checks or cracks will degrade very quickly and ruin all the hard work you have done on that expensive deck. <S> Don't forget to water isolate the ledger from the building and resist the temptation to use cheap waterproofing products. <S> Often the details of construction in areas you can't see is as if not more important than the viewed surfaces. <S> Good luck. <A> Crown side down though helps prevent the boards from warping as much because the frame stops it from warping. <S> Its easier for it to pull out the nails then it is to push through the frame <A> My son and our scout troop did a gazebo just before he turned 18 <S> he is now 35. <S> Some buddies and I have a prayer group down there when the weather is nice. <S> I look at those boards, the smile is down with a screw and two galvanized nails at each joint. <S> that deck is very flat. <S> I am working on a deck now. <S> I cut a top hand rail out of a plank and left it to put up later. <S> We have had lots of rain here in KY <S> so it was awhile before I got back to it. <S> When I did the board had a small cup going with the direction of the "smile" of growth rings not against it. <S> My guess is that wood growth rings change in relation to weather as against if wood is dried for indoor use. <S> On my own deck I put the "smiles" down 5 years ago and the deck has remained basically flat and level. <S> So I'm going with bark side up otherwise known as smile down. <S> Treated or untreated may also make a difference. <S> I noticed that Tommy Mac says smiles up <S> but he was using dried and untreated mahogany. <S> I maybe check to see what is working in your area with the type of wood and normal weather conditions. <S> Ky has no normal weather conditions! <S> I've read that Technically dried wood cups opposite direction of growth rings and that is the reason for bread board ends. <S> Truthfully I have not noticed that. <S> I'll take a look at the wood in my shop and let you all know.
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Although both ways are advised by different sources, I have built dozens of decks in Maine as a contractor and have found that pressure treated and cedar boards almost always crown to the bark side and recommend the bark side face outward.
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What can I use to hang a frameless mirror? I'm looking to hang a mirror on the wall on my bathroom. It weighs about 20 or so lbs. There are no built in hooks on the back of the mirror? What should I use to hang this thing? <Q> They are no where near as big as a j channel and the top two have a small spring inside of them <S> so they kind of grasp the mirror (and snugly fit on the glass). <S> You put the two without the springs in the bottom and the mirror just sits in them. <S> Two more (with the springs) added to the top prevent the mirror from falling forward. <S> Of course it would be best if you can get them into a beam in your wall. <S> And you will barely notice the clips on the mirror once it is in place. <A> Liquid Nails Mirror Adhesive , but it does say you need to use a mechanical support as well, such as a shelf angle or "J" channel. <S> Another option is Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive which will hold about anything. <S> In our new house, we installed large, frameless mirrors in each bathroom using this and it worked great. <S> UPDATE <S> As Alex pointed out in the comments, the site for Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive does not recommend using it for mirrors. <S> They do have two other products that are specifically for mirrors, Mirror Adhesive (LN-930) and Mirror Adhesive (LOW-VOC) <S> (LN-730) <A> It didn't come with anything? <S> The one 'frameless' mirror that I have is in the dining room, and it's probably 30 lbs, but it has a wooden frame behind it and a set of small metal clips that go over the edge onto the front of the mirror and then screw into the wooden frame. <S> It really doesn't change the look, but it supports the whole thing very nicely. <S> I'd try to do something similar with another frameless mirror.
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At Home Depot (or Lowes) you should be able to find these Spring Loaded Mirror Mounting Clips made specially for hanging a mirror.
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Can a bathroom vanity be installed higher than 30 inches? "Standard" bathroom vanities are 30", where as kitchen counter tops are typically 36". For me (6' tall), the 30" vanity is rather low. Is there any reason to leave vanities that height, or can they be installed higher? Is there any practical downside to having a higher vanity (eg, kids)? <Q> I've seen lots of houses that use standard kitchen cabinets as a master bath vanity -- around here at least it's considered an upgrade. <S> My wife is 5'2" and loved the 36" double vanity in our old house. <A> Standard bathroom vanities were made at 32" years ago when many homes typically were 2/1's with a shared bathroom. <S> That means parents and children would be using the same vanity. <S> To accomodate children, vanities were lowered to 32" which is standard height. <S> Now that many homes have multiple bathrooms and even a dedicated bathroom for each room in the house, Comfort Height is the new norm. <S> Comfort height vanities are 36" but this height can vary +/- <S> a few inches either way. <S> There is no downside to upgrading to a comfort height vanity. <S> In fact, it's preferred in most cases. <S> It reduces stooping and strain on the lower back. <S> Here is my research on both types . <S> You can read here for further detail . <A> If you are doing a double sink, I've seen in some homes where one portion of the vanity counter is raised. <S> That way you have the normal height for the not so tall and a raised height for us normal people :). <S> Being 6' also, I saw that and thought "I will have that in my house", having the counter half way between your knees and waist gets very annoying... <A> You could make them as tall as you like, but you may run into problems when it comes time to sell. <S> Also as you mentioned kids may have trouble using them, and would need taller step stools. <A> While I was house shopping at the beginning of the year, I saw several houses that had his and hers vanities, with the 'his' (also known as 'shaving height') <S> vanity several inches higher than the 'hers' vanity. <S> The height for a shaving vanity ranges from 34-36", while the 'hers' vanity is the standard 30. <S> " This forum also discusses the topic. <A> Taller bathroom vanities are typically advertised as "comfort height". <S> My 5'6" wife strongly agrees that the 36" counters are far more comfortable. <S> Few people complain about kitchen counters being too tall, so I don't know why there's so much concern that they'll be unusable in bathrooms. <S> For small children.. they're not going to be small forever. <S> Get a cabinet with a built in pullout stepstool <S> and then it can be comfortable for them when they're not small any more too. <A> Yes, it's more than possible to have a vanity be taller than 30". <S> The standard height of a bathroom vanity is 32" but comfort height vanities are raised by 4" for a total height of 36". <S> http://www.tradewindsimports.com/blog/bathroom-vanities/standard-height-bathroom-vanity/ <S> You can read the article above if you have more questions. <S> It will answer all of your questions and give you diagrams with standard dimensions listed.
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Depending on your height, most people would find a taller vanity to be more comfortable. A 36" height is not uncomfortably tall for anyone but small children (which is why they're only used in the master bath).
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How can I speed up my slow hot water? Our water heater (gas) is located in the garage. It is 25 to 30 feet away from the closest faucet, which I'm guessing is the main reason it takes so long -- a minute or longer -- to get hot water flowing into my house. What can I do to reduce the time it takes to get hot water flowing? <Q> This is a small (~4 gallon) <S> hot water heater installed very near the sink. <S> If you need a lot of hot water and you want it to start fast you can install the hot water line as the supply for the point of use heater. <S> That way you will have 4 gallons for immediate use and if you use that up you will be drawing hot water from your main hot water heater. <S> If you don't need more than 4 gallons of hot water at the sink you can just use cold water as the supply. <S> Here's an example of a point of use water heater for sale at Amazon.com . <A> Install a hot water recirculating pump. <S> Older pumps required that the house be plumbed with a return loop to support circulation, but newer designs can be retrofitted if a house wasn't plumbed that way. <S> More info: http://www.askthebuilder.com/413_Hot_Water_Recirculating_Pumps.shtml <S> $ saving tip: put the pump on a timer and have it come on only when you typically use hot water at that location. <S> Or use an X-10 switched outlet (or something similar) to allow remote manual switching combined with timed events. <A> Insulate the hot water pipes from the hot water heater to the faucet. <S> Hopefully you have access to them in your crawl space. <A> There really isn't a perfect solution to slow-flowing water, other than carefully planning your home so that the water heater is as close to the faucets as possible. <S> As stated by Josh , one solution is water recirculation. <S> But depending on usage scenarios, water recirculation can waste a lot of energy. " <S> Sense" technology that enables recirculation when needed can improve efficiency. <S> And installing a system that uses the "cold" water circuit as a return line can make installation relatively easy. <S> If all else has failed, you can try quickly opening and closing the hot water - forcing the system to kick in. <S> Wait a minute or so, and when you open again, you'll have hot water (and you will have saved a minute of running water). <S> Another solution is the instant water heater , like this one produced by Clage . <S> It works by heating right next to the faucets. <S> On-demand water heaters are quite efficient for usual "short burst" operation. <A> You can go for a small water heater right near the faucet. <S> I have done this with small 8 litre water heaters in the kitchen and guest toilets rather than linking them to the main water heater. <A> One option is a recirculating water pump, which can pump hot water into the pipes based on various triggers (on demand, based on a timer, based on water temp, etc depending on model). <S> I used one at my previous house, and it worked pretty well. <S> There's more info here: http://www.askthebuilder.com/413_Hot_Water_Recirculating_Pumps.shtml <A> It is not particularly water conscious, but you could open up another hot water tap or two to move the cold water out of the pipes more quickly.
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The best way to speed up hot water to the tap is through the use of a booster heater, also known as a "point of use" hot water heater.
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Should I apply car wax to the outside of my air conditioning unit? Through different conversations with family members and friends, I have been told that it is good to apply a coat of car wax to the outside of the air conditioning unit frame. I assume that this is to maintain a protective seal and prevent corrosion. Has anyone done this before? I just bought a new Trane XR15 unit in April and I want to keep it in tip-top shape for as long as possible. <Q> I seems to me that waxing the outside of the AC unit is only going to protect cosmetic appeal. <S> Otherwise, I wouldn't put in the effort. <A> I have seen outside units whose paint has faded and become chalky-looking after several years of service. <S> I suppose waxing it might prevent or delay this, but I agree with Doresoom that the benefit is really going to be mainly cosmetic. <A> If you do this, make sure you don't get any wax on the coil! <S> Doing so would hurt the unit's performance. <S> As others have said, this is totally a cosmetic thing. <S> It won't help the life of the unit much. <S> When the unit needs to be replaced, it will be because the coil or compressor is busted (probably 15yrs from now), and you've decided it isn't worth repairing. <S> It's not going to need replacement because the frame has some surface rust. <A> The Trane unit has a special coat of paint that will make it look good for years and years, I doubt you will need to wax it. <S> See Page 5 of the Trane informational packet: . <A> I've never heard of this before. <S> Does it mention anything about doing that in the maintenance guide for your unit? <S> If not, then I probably wouldn't bother. <A> This will decrease your capacity and efficiency <S> As stated http://www.ccacac.com/maintenance-tips/tips/maintenance-homeowners-can-do/ <S> it talks about just weeds, and dirt much less a thick coat of wax. <S> Keep your outside unit clean and free of debris and plants. <S> Grass clippings and vines can clog the outside coil and restrict the airflow. <S> This will decrease your capacity and efficiency. <S> Make sure that bushes and shrubs do not grow too close to the unit and restrict the airflow. <S> The air must be able to escape freely from the discharge of the unit. <S> Any restriction in this area can cause the hot air to be recirculated back through the unit. <S> This will make the unit work much harder and reduce the efficiency and capacity. <S> Rinse the coil on the outside unit. <S> This will clean the loose dirt, salt, and sand from the coil. <S> Do not wash it with pressure, simply rinse it from the top down to let the dirt freely flow out. <S> Washing it with pressure may pack the dirt into the center of the coil. <S> Pressure should only be used from the inside out to push the dirt out the way it came in. <S> Rinsing the coil should be done about once a month during the cooling season. <A> I'm assuming you're talking about the condensing unit sitting outside? <S> I'd say you'll wear out the unit long before the frame becomes damaged enough to affect it's function.
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If you're interested in keeping the unit looking nice from the outside, then it could help.
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How do I hang shelves on poor quality brick/concrete walls? I'm trying to install some shelves in my apartment (brick/concrete) but when I drill holes the walls almost seem like they're made of sand. I'm not able to securely fix the screws (I'm using wall plugs) and the shelves appear like they're going to fall down at any minute. Is there anything I can do about it? I was wondering if I could use some material inside the holes after I drill them (and before putting the wall plugs) so I can make the screws stay firm in their place. Any tips? <Q> Are you sure you are not drilling between the mortar? <S> That is the weakest point to drill. <S> There are a couple different things you can do. <S> I assume you are using concrete anchors so you can apply a generous coating of Loctite Metal and Concrete Epoxy onto the anchor before you insert it into the hole. <S> The other option is to take furring strips (pressure treated <S> 1x4's) and attach them to the wall with blue concrete anchor screws, at least 2 and 1/2 inches long. <S> These should make a good thread and the furring strips will add to the support structure. <S> Space your anchors 2-4 inches apart vertically and on-center. <A> A better solution might be to build a framework to support the shelves rather than trying to "bodge" (as we say in the UK) the holes. <S> What you need to do is spread the load from the shelves over a larger area. <S> Without knowing the layout of your walls it's difficult to suggest anything definite <S> Another alternative is to use a glue such as "No Nails", however, you need to check that it's suitable for your walls and can handle the load. <A> I've got two ideas. <S> The first is to use a chemical wall plug , but the second has a requirement. <S> If you can drill through that wall, I suggest to put on the other side of the wall a metal plate (width, height and thickness are up to you that know how many Kilograms the shelf it supposed to get on itself), then make three holes in the shape of a triangle (with the single vertice facing the floor and the other two facing the roof) and use one screw thread for each hole. <A> You can use different fittings, such as frame fixings (the kind of thing you'd use to hold a exterior door frame or window in it's hole). <S> Also, you could fix up a batten with lots and lots of long rawlplugs and fat screws (two rawlplugs per hole, one deeper so the whole screw is biting into rawlplug), then screw your shelves to that nice study wood batten. <A> What color is the dust that comes off when you drill? <S> If it's just white, you could be just drilling into the plaster instead of the actual solid material underneath. <S> Try drilling deeper holes and see if you hit a more solid surface. <A> i recently moved into an old brownstone and have a similar situation, i was recommended to drill through the plaster into the brick (which is directly applied to the brick) and then fill the whole with epoxy. <S> once set, i was told i can drill the screws directly in the epoxy <S> and it should hold the shelves. <S> does anyone have any comments regarding if this will work or not?
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but if you had an alcove you could fix vertical battens up the sides and then hang the shelves between those.
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Electric Fireplace worth it The wife is bent on getting an Electric heater for the living room. We opted not to purchase the gas fireplace when we built our home (through Ryan). She claims these things can cost up to $1000. She has a guy on craigslist thats trying to get rid of his for < $200. Says he bought it preparing to install it and they moved to a new home w/ a fireplace before he could. Will this improve the value of my home? <Q> As others have pointed out, resale value of any particular feature depends on who you are selling to. <S> In my mind seeing an electric fireplace would trigger the following thoughts: "Looks temporary and cheap. <S> What other things did they skimp on? <S> How much would it cost me to deal with these things down the road?". <S> But obviously not everybody is like me -- other people might be thrilled to see this thing -- study your target demographic. <S> Another important aspect is that making one's wife happy for <A> "Will this improve the value of my home?": probably not from a purely resale value. <S> Whereas updating your kitchen almost always has a great return on your investment, I am not so sure an electric fireplace in your living room would give you the same return. <S> Some future buyers would see it as a benefit and others would not like it (kind of like the return you get on installing a swimming pool - it helps as much as it hurts). <S> And also it depends on what it would do to the overall interior design/look and feel of the space in general. <S> But keep in mind <S> this is something your wife really wants to do so <S> maybe it goes beyond the return on investment <S> and then there are non-monetary benefits associated with its purchase and installation. <A> Most home renovations usually don't get a full return on investment. <S> Kitchens and bathrooms usually return the most value at resale. <S> This article gives a good breakdown of common renos. <S> As Eric says, what's it worth to your family? <S> That's usually the driving force behind a renovation, and ROI is a pleasant side effect. <S> (Unless you're trying to flip a house.) <A> If properly installed, I can't see why it wouldn't increase the value of your home by more than the $200 you paid for it. <S> You also need to think beyond just resale and consider the value you (or your wife) gets by having it as well. <A> I've got one in my bedroom, and I still don't regret buying it. <S> It is kind of nice in the winter and the modern ones simulate the look of a real fire pretty well. <S> Ultimately, it is just a fancy space-heater though. <S> Mine just sits along a wall and is plugged in. <S> No major install needed (although there was some assembly required). <S> In most cases, I've heard that there are almost no renovations you can do that yield a positive ROI especially if you don't plan to sell the home fairly quickly after the renovation. <S> The exception to this rule is where you are fixing something. <S> For example, cracks in the fascia or carpet from the stone age.
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I really doubt it will affect your property values one way or the other unless you do some kind of permanent installation.
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What are the black spots on my bathroom ceiling? Are they mold? My bathroom above my tub is getting some black spots on it that seems to be growing. I assume it's mold. I am wondering how should I deal with this? What should I expect it to cost? <Q> What you do next depends on this. <S> Assuming it is mold you need to do two things. <S> Clean it <S> off - disinfectant/bleach solution should do the job. <S> Find out why it's forming. <S> This is the important bit as if you just do the first step it will come back. <S> The usual cause is condensation which in a bathroom means you have insufficient ventilation. <S> So the ultimate cure is to fit an extractor fan above the bath to remove the steam. <S> You can get ones that wire up to the light circuit and then "run on" after the light is switched off to provide additional ventilation. <S> Once you've done this redecorate. <A> Every answer here suggests using a water-bleach solution, though I am suggesting cleaning the mould (if that is what it turns out to be) with just soap and water. <S> And I have my friends Health Canada and the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Council to back me up. <S> CMHC is not a health authority, but they do have an interest in damage to mortgaged-backed homes and their typical clients are first-time home buyers who have little to no experience with home maintenance. <S> Both advise against using bleach to clean mould. <S> Soap and water works fine and is safer (for you) to use, especially in poorly-ventilated spaces (you have a mouldy bathroom after all). <S> The CDC does not outright discourage the use of bleach for cleaning small areas of mould (it discommends it for for areas larger than 10 sqft) and does provide advice and instructions <S> should you decide to use bleach . <S> Edit: The assumption we make here is that this is "typical" house hold mould and not something you'd need professionals to clean. <S> Please don't attempt to use soap and water for black mould or mould that covers an area of more than 10 sqft. <A> You can start off with taking a 50/50 solution of bleach and water, then spraying the mold with it. <S> Wait a few days. <S> To prevent it in the future, when showering you should be using the bathroom fan to allow the hot air to be exhausted outside rather than condense on the walls and ceiling (which are made of drywall of course). <S> They also make mold-inhibiting paint and mold-inhibiting drywall. <S> Depending on your bathroom and funds, this may be a long term option. <S> But bleach/water mixture will be your first step. <A> Yup, probably mold. <S> First you'll want to clean it up. <S> A weak solution of water and bleach should do the trick. <S> To make sure it stays gone, you'll want to make sure your bathroom is properly ventilated. <S> If you don't have a vent fan, you'll want to install one. <S> If you already have one, you'll want to make sure you use it. <S> Hooking it up <S> so it automatically turns on with the light <S> is a good way of doing that. <S> They also have a mold-preventative that you can add to paint (pretty sure home depot carries it). <S> I would strongly recommend using that and repainting the ceiling. <S> I've used it myself several times and it works very well. <A> Wash it off with some bleach and warm water. <A> Although cleaning the surface like others have suggested would be good, if this was my house <S> I would want to make sure the source mold is not coming from the attic. <S> It could be your attic is not properly vented and moisture is forming of the other side of the ceiling and is so bad that it is coming though to the finished side. <S> This would indicate a major issue. <S> I would take a look up there above the bathroom and see if you see any mold. <S> If so, you will want to bring in the pros. <A> Yes, it is 100% mold. <S> A lot of people tend to get mold in their bathrooms as they don't have any ventilation when they shower which creates a lot of condensation. <S> Simply open a window (even if slightly) which will let the steam out the room whilst you shower. <S> Such a simple (and free) solution.
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And then make sure you ventilate your bathroom well after taking a shower (or whenever the humidity levels in the bathroom increase). First find out whether it is mold or not.
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Will running a dehumidifier near new concrete cause it to cure poorly? I have a new house with high humidity in the basement. Will running a dehumidifier constantly cause the new concrete to cure poorly? <Q> 1) <S> The issues around curing concrete too quickly are where the concrete is thin and in direct sunlight (i.e. a sidewalk in the sun). <S> The rule of thumb I have heard is that concrete cures 85% in the first 7 days. <S> 10% over the next 3 weeks and the remaining 5% over the next 20 years. <S> 2) Even if the concrete had just been poured, you would not be able to make it dry too quickly with a home dehumidifier. <S> Home humidifiers can only draw 30-100 pints (3.75 - 12.5) gallons a day and that would require you had it plumbed into a drain so you never had to stop it to empty it. <S> Plus the moisture from the concrete just can't transfer to the air that quickly. <S> If you have moisture in your basement that is resulting in high humidity the risk of mold should be your concern. <S> Run a dehumidifier and measure moisture in each basement room. <S> Move the dehumidifier around as needed. <A> Nope, I wouldn't worry about it. <S> The concrete should be more or less at full strength within 30 days of being laid, but it'll continue to cure over about a year or so. <A> Not only it will not cause damage, but also it helps the concrete to be more solid in less time: I used the same technique adjusting a very wet basement. <S> The results were stunning (also the amount of water drained that I had to drop was so!). <A> How new is this house? <S> The concrete should cure within a few days. <S> In fact, you probably wouldn't live in the house if the foundation wasn't cured properly.
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The concrete in your basement has cured enough to be structurally sound.
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How wide should I make my game-room if I want to fit a "full-size" pool table in it? I'm starting to look at finishing my basement, and am playing with a couple different layouts. I definitely want to put a pool table down there - and later sell the house with this being one of the big selling points. Length shouldn't be an issue, but how wide does my room need to be to properly fit a full-size pool table and comfortably play on it? <Q> You need enough room to be able to properly line up and execute any shot. <S> I would say you need at least 5 to 6ft "elbow room" around the table. <S> A regulation sized pool table is 4.5'x9'. <S> Source <S> So your room needs to be 14.5' x 19' to 16.5' x 21' (which sounds very large). <A> Here is another good source for sizing a room for various sized pool tables. <S> This table (borrowed from that site) is a good rule of thumb when using full sized cue sticks. <S> Table Size Minimum Room Size Playing surface 3.5' <S> x 7' 16' 8" <S> x 13' 6" <S> 39.5" x 79" 4' <S> x 8' 17' 4 <S> " x 13' 11" 44 <S> " x 88 <S> " 4.25' x 8.5' 17' 9" x 14' 1" 46 <S> " x 92" <S> 4.5' <S> x 9' 18' 4 <S> " x 14' 6" <S> 50 <S> " x 100" <A> They do of course make short sticks for tight areas though. <S> Not ideal, but it's an option if you don't have 15' or so to work with.
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At a minimum, you'll want 5 feet in every direction around the table to have enough room to use a full size stick.
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Is a gas water heater safe in a bedroom? My existing water heater is electric and is likely to need replacing soon. The heater is in a converted garage that I use as a guest room. As the house is piped for gas, I'm considering the purchase of a gas water heater to replace the electric one. Is there any hazard with a modern gas water heater being used near where people are sleeping? (I'm more concerned here with fumes than the possibility of explosion.) <Q> The amount of oxygen consumed by a hot water heater is negligible. <S> The risk of the gas heater sucking all the oxygen out of the room is zero. <S> Now that does not mean that it's code to have it in a bedroom, but there is no safety issue from consumption of oxygen. <S> The safety issue is on venting of the carbon monoxide (CO) from the hot water heater. <S> There are lots of resources online about properly venting gas appliances. <S> Here's a reasonable one to start with . <S> Obviously since a gas hot water heater requires adding a vent, it's more expensive to install. <S> You may find that an electric water heater still makes financial sense once you consider installation costs. <S> As noted in the comments, be sure and get a CO detector for the room. <S> These are relatively inexpensive and you can get them at your local hardware store or order through Amazon . <A> Pretty sure codes prevent using a gas appliance in a location where it will get it's combustion air from a bedroom. <S> The reason for this is that if the heater is burning up all the oxygen in the room and it can't be replaced quickly enough through natural air flow through the house, you'd end up being asphyxiated in your sleep. <S> I think there's an exception though if you use a direct-vent model that gets it's combustion air from the outside. <S> So you would need to make sure <S> whatever hot water heater you buy is rated for that kind of installation. <A> CO is dangerous as it has not odor, It is best not to take risks. <S> You can place a gas water heater outside in a metal closet with the proper ventilation. <S> This is much safer. <S> I also currently have an electric heater, but when I put in gas pipes a couple of years ago, I put one outside <S> so one day I can set up a gas heater in a safe way.
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In order to make the install safe, ensure that the new gas water heater is properly vented through the ceiling.
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How often should the air filter in the furnace be changed? Does the period of change of this air filter have an affect on the longevity of the heating and a/c system? What is a good rule of thumb to require replacement? <Q> Dirty filters not only make the HVAC equipment not last as long, but the low air flow makes them less energy efficient. <S> A dirty furnace does not conduct heat into the air as well and the dirt sticks to the fan blades making it not last as long or spin as easily. <S> There are two main types of air filters: <S> The 1" thick ones that look like this: <S> And the 6" thick filters look like this: <S> (source: filterscanada.ca ) <S> Generally the 1" filters are good for a month or two. <S> The 6" thick ones are good for 6 months. <S> There are also 2", 4", and 5" filters available but generally not at the local hardware store. <S> Some folks who have 6" filters use a 2" + 4" filter and replace the 2" one every other month and the 4" once a year. <S> This seems like a hassle to me, but it might save you $50 a year if you have 6" filters. <A> And yes, if you don't keep the filter clean it will shorten the life of your unit and could cause other problems like a frozen coil (where the air handler coil freezes because there isn't enough airflow). <S> I like to use the cheap air filters as they allow the best airflow. <S> Some units are made for the better filters but those can cause more problems than the solve. <A> It depends on the filter. <S> Go to Lowes or Home Depot and they will have a chart with the different filter qualities and the recommended length of time they can be in service. <S> As you go up to more expensive filters, you can replace them every 3 or 6 months. <S> I currently buy the ones that need to be replaced every 3 months. <A> 1-2 months for a 1" filter, and 6 months for a 6" filter is a good rule of thumb. <S> However, that is for average conditions in an average home. <S> You may want to check yours more frequently if you have any pets since fur will tend to dirty up the filter quicker, and reducing the filter's usable life. <S> You can also compare a new one (or photo of a new one that you took before putting it in) with the current one to determine how "bad" or "dirty" the current one looks. <S> If it looks bad, change it. <A> If you install a GeneralAire G99 Air Filter Gage , it will tell you exactly when your air filter needs to be changed. <S> It can be found for < $20 online. <S> I don't have one, but I've thought about it... <S> After doing a bit of research, I've decided to change mine every 3 months. <S> I don't use the cheapest filters, but I don't get the incredibly expensive ones, either. <A> i would say that rule of thumb must be different for different places. <S> e.g <S> if you're living in industrial area like where you have alot of pollution in the air , you must go for change before the time mentioned in the manual but if you're living in healthy environment like well planned societies than it could lasts more than specified time. <S> In short you must check the quality of the filter time to time.
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The rule of thumb is every 3 months but it does depend on the filter and your air quality. In general, the cheapest filters that cost only a couple of bucks have to be replaced once a month.
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How can I have a pond but prevent mosquitos to nest there? I would like to have a small waterfall leading into a small pond in my garden. Due to the Westnile virus, it is essential here to prevent mosquitoes to nest. What can I do to prevent mosquitoes to be able to nest in it? <Q> A couple options: <S> Make it small enough that the waterfall will keep the water moving. <S> Mosquitoes like standing water, but not moving water. <S> Add some fish. <S> Fish love to eat Mosquito larvae. <A> You may want to take a look at Mosquito Dunks : <S> Kills mosquito larvae for 30 days! <S> Mosquito Dunks have been used by professionals for more than a decade and have proven their value in destroying mosquitoes - by killing the larvae before they mature into biting adults. <S> Made with Bt-israelensis (Bt-i), a highly specific biological pesticide, this product represent a major breakthrough for people and the environment when compared with the traditional toxic chemical approach to mosquito control. <S> Will not harm people, pets, wildlife or fish. <S> To learn more about Bt-i, click here for reference information from the Environmental Protection Agency . <S> Easy <S> To Use: <S> Once a month place wherever water accumulates around your home - you'll be rid of mosquitoes for the whole season. <S> Each Dunk will effectively treat up to 100 square feet of surface water regardless of depth. <S> They may also be broken in half to treat smaller areas. <S> Great for use in water gardens, flower pots, bird baths, rain gutters and decorative ponds! <S> product image <S> http://cache.planetnatural.com/planetnatural/images/large/mosquito-dunks-large.jpg <A> Rabon (tetrachlorvinphos) blocks are nontoxic to animals but cause the larva to not develop and thus interrupts the life cycle of mosquitoes and flies. <S> You can break the Rabon up and sprinkle it in the water to help prevent mosquitoes from breeding. <S> Rabon can be purchased at farm supply stores or via Amazon . <A> I know this is late, but it may be of help for others. <S> Get some Mosquitofish . <S> We were able to go to a resource in our County (don't remember which one) and they gave them to us for free. <S> Started with 6 and now we have too many to count. <S> The good thing is that they are self-regulating as far as population goes. <S> If you cannot find a county resource to get them from, check around for others who have ponds. <S> Most folks will be happy to seed new pond owners with Mosquitofish.
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In addition to introducing predators like fish and dragonflies and moving water, many folks use Rabon blocks which are fed to livestock to prevent flies and mosquitoes from breeding in the animal waste.
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Good low cost tools for woodwork I'm starting to get into some woodwork for building a desk for my home and I need to purchase some tools, but I'm not really sure of what to look for to determine if a tool is of good quality. I don't want superb top of the line tools as I won't be using them that often but I need something that will not hinder my work, and I definitely want something that will at least be good for a couple years (maybe). I'll probably be needing a power drill a circular saw a jig saw orbital sander or belt sander <Q> A Doweling jig can be useful. <S> or a Pocket hole jig . <S> And plenty of clamps (big ones, small ones, band clamps are nice). <A> My absolute favorite power drill I've bought is a Ryobi 12V cordless . <S> They don't make the same model I have now, but the current "One+" series takes both the old 12V batteries that I have, and the newer lithium batteries (my brother has one of those - it can charge a battery in about 45 minutes!) <S> One of the nice things about the drill, other than the fact that it was under $60, is the magnetic tray on the bottom - it's wonderful for holding bits as you change them in and out. <S> I use my drill as a power screwdriver all the time, so having the tray to hold screws and the bit I use to pre-drill the hole is nice. <S> The great thing about the cordless series is that you can get a bunch of different tools that all use the same batteries. <S> I picked up mine at Home Depot. <A> A good chisel is in any woodworker's toolbox. <A> The number of uses a carpenter's square <S> has are almost as many as the uses for the common screwdriver. <S> See also: http://zo-d.com/stuff/how-do-i/how-to-use-the-swanson-speed-square-as-a-framing-square.html <A> Get a long and sturdy metal level. <S> Clamp it to plywood and use it as a straightedge for your circular saw.
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For power tools I find that Ryobi has decent tools for a good prices.
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Why does my kitchen faucet cut out intermittently? Sometimes when I'm running water from my kitchen faucet, it will cut out for no apparent reason. It doesn't seem to matter if I'm running hot or cold water (or a mixture), but does seem to happen more often if I'm running the faucet fully open. I can usually fix it by closing and opening the faucet a couple of times. If that doesn't work, pulling the trigger on the -- separate -- pull-out spray nozzle often does it, and if that doesn't work, just turning it off and leaving it for a while will do it. What is causing this behavior and what can I do to prevent it from occurring in the future? <Q> I may be way off base here but have you tried removing the aerator on the faucet and letting it run on both hot and cold fully open (separately)? <S> It's possible that the aerator could be clogging up and causing pressure buildup. <S> If you do not have copper pipes then it's possible that the buildup would be caused by rusting or oxidization in the pipes. <S> Full pressure should knock it loose I think. <A> Or the valve on your spray nozzle. <A> I had the same problem. <S> The hose that connects the water supply, where the on off valve is to the faucet has a valve inside that shuts the water off in the case where a hose would burst causing a flood. <S> Scratched my head for a while before I figured that out. <S> Replaced the hose problem solved. <A> Cleaning the valve (aerator) that Joe Philllips recommended was a great trick. <S> If your faucet also has spray hose, you may need to clean (or replace) the diverter. <A> Similar problem: All other water faucets work fine <S> , so I took off the kitchen sink aerator to figure out what it was. <S> Water flowed out the sink without the aerator on, then I felt like an idiot, because the aerator was equipped with a separate on/off lever. <S> Saved myself some embarrassment in front of a plumber. <A> same problem - hot water kept slamming off only at kitchen sink. <S> I tried shutting off main valve and draining all lines--did not work. <S> cleaned aerator...clogged, but didn't help. <S> took off cartridge and cleaned debris, but still same problem. <S> I did notice lots of small white plastic/tape like pieces in cartridge, so i kept putting the cartridge back on and running water until it slammed off...2 seconds, and then taking off and cleaning. <S> Finally a big piece of this white plastic (size of fingernail) came out. <S> Everything working great now. <S> not sure when next piece will work its way up, or what it is from, but i think this was the problem!
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The valve that diverts the water to the spray nozzle may be (partially) clogged or defective.
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Is it normal to miter the non-pivoting edge of a door? Recently I've seen someone miter the edge of a bathroom and closet door so it swings shut without hitting the door frame. I've never seen this before -- is it normal? Clarification: The edge that was mitered was the part that would swing into the door frame first due to the angle the door is at while closing it. <Q> It shouldn't be necessary. <S> Some times it might be useful: <S> Your hinge plates aren't flush to the surface of the door or the frame. <S> You have a build-up of paint on the door or frame causing the door to rub or stick. <S> Some wood splinters easily if it's cut at a right-angle. <S> Rounding the corners a little can help this. <A> I believe this was pretty standard practice when interior doors were solid wood. <S> My last house was 100 years old, and every interior door had an angle on the edge the way you describe. <S> Was the guy you saw doing it an old-timer? <S> I think the practice has advantages. <S> It allows you to get a smaller reveal between the door and frame, which might look better. <S> It also lets you even up the reveal without resorting to shimming the hinges. <S> And when the house shifts and the door starts to rub it's much easier to remove the offending bit since you're planing off a bit of an arris rather than a whole flat edge. <A> You only need to do this if you've incorrectly mounted the hinge. <S> The better solution would be to remount the hinges <S> so you don't have to do this. <A>
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This may be necessary to repair an old door and frame where age may have been a factor in reducing clearances.
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Plugging a hole in the ceiling We had an electrician install a light in our ceiling. In the process he had to move the fitting about 10 centimeters which left a hole roughly three centimeters in diameter. He tried to pug it using filler which is a disaster. What's the best way for a hack like myself to plug this hole? <Q> patching a hole in the ceiling is the same as patching one in the wall (only your arms usually get more tired from being above your head), see this question: <S> What is the best method to patch a large hole (2-3 inches) in drywall? <S> Excerpt: <A> Remove the metal brace if necessary and insert a small wood panel such that is overlaps enough on both sides. <S> Then you can nail a small piece of Sheetrock in the size of the whole onto this wood panel that it is flush with the ceiling. <S> Finally you can paint this in the same colour as the rest of the ceiling. <A> I had a similar issue when the electrician installing my fan had to install the fan box properly on a stud because the previous box was not on a stud. <S> A hole about as large as yours was left. <S> What you can do is take those wall patches that you purchase at Lowes or Home Depot and place it over the hole with some spackle to make it stick at first. <S> Let it dry, then sand, primer, and paint. <A> For a 3cm hole, a lightweight compound should do the job. <S> Patch it and paint it.
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After you have spackled and attached the patch, then spackle all over the patch to smooth it out. Correct way to do it is as instructed on 'Canada's worst Handyman'
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How can I seal the grout on kitchen wall tiles to give lasting stain and mold protection? I have 1.5mm of white grout between rectified white tiles on my kitchen walls as a splashback (or backsplash in North America *) behind the sink and cooktop and I'm concerned about stains from food and mould. I've read on the web I'm supposed to seal the grout using a soak-in sealant in what sounds like a very time-consuming prcoess that has to be repeated every year, forever . Is there a more long-lasting way to do this? Surely just using that new "no-mould-for-five-years" white silicone sealant would be better than that? . . ((* this is hilarious - I'm imagining some dopey kitchen contractor who says it wrong migrating from the US to Australia or vice versa and everyone picking up the wrong term)) <Q> You want to apply a penetrating grout sealer. <S> This one says that it last up to 5 years depending on conditions. <S> The key for the sealer to last as long as possible on a backsplash is to avoid cleaning it with "harsh cleaners" like bleach and antibacterial sprays. <S> You want to use something that is not going to remove the grout sealer when cleaning the backsplash. <S> They sell specific cleaners that are easy on the grout at the tile shops, but I have read that just using diluted white vinegar works. <A> If you're not exposing your tiles to a lot of water (especially in a splashback/backsplash type application), I don't think you'll need to reseal as often as you think. <S> I used a silicone sealer product which comes in an aerosol <S> can, just spray it on and once the stuff has soaked into the grout a bit, wipe off the tiles and you're done. <S> I can deal with doing that once every couple of years. <S> If I were having to paint it on a vertical surface with a normal applicator, I would definitely be adverse to sealing every year too. <A> Home improvement stores have grout sealers. <S> I have used them in the kitchen and on the bathroom floors. <S> Works well in both places. <S> It is very easy to use. <S> Just make sure the grout has set up and is dry. <A> As a side effect of reglazing the tile, the grout is glazed over as well, making it much easier to clean. <S> It would be more expensive of course to have that done, but it would give you the option to change the color of the tile as well if you wanted to.
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Grout sealer would be the obvious way to do it, but another way would be to have the tile reglazed.
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What are the recommended settings for a dual-zone air conditioning unit? What are the recommended settings for an air conditioning unit that is dual-zone? Meaning, if I have a house that is two stories I know that in Florida they recommend you keep it at 78 F in the summer and 69 in the winter, but the top half of the house will always get hotter (and colder in the winter). So what are the recommended settings for a house in a configuration like this that achieve the best of comfort and energy savings? <Q> This allowance is usually around two degrees, depending on ceiling heights on each floor. <S> For example, if your preferred temperature in the Summer is 74°F, set the downstairs thermostat to 73°F, and the upstairs to 75°F, in effect bracketing your desired set point. <S> The same two degree difference will usually be sufficient in the Winter as well. <S> Just remember to always have the higher temperature on the higher floor. <S> For three story homes, a one degree difference between each floor may be sufficient, depending on how high the ceilings of each floor are. <S> Just as with the two story home, the highest temperature always goes on the highest floor, no matter what the season. <A> Ideally you need a 2 zone HVAC system for your house if you're trying to maintain an upstairs/downstairs sort of temperature control scheme. <S> This is definitely a good idea in terms of energy savings; you don't want to fully heat or cool those areas which aren't occupied. <S> Several questions come up: <S> Is there a fixed occupancy schedule for both areas? <S> What is your primary concern - energy savings or comfort? <S> Without a sophisticated HVAC controls system in place you're basically going to be tied to a time based control scheme, so you need to figure out when you're going to be upstairs vs downstairs and home/not home <S> so you can modify your thermostat settings accordingly. <S> Just as a rough guide - when setting up an office building we would tend to run the daytime temperature between 70-74 degrees and set back to 60-62 in heating season or 80-82 in the cooling season when the space was not occupied (night). <S> Letting the building get any colder (or hotter) only made for excessively long AC or heating runs to get the space(s) up to temp. <S> Even an unoccupied/unimproved tenant space is kept between 60-80 degrees to minimize the impact on overall building heating/cooling. <A> I found this graph: <S> The image is a link to a PDF. <A> There are many factors to take into consideration when talking energy efficiency and comfort. <S> Your comfort level may like a house at 69F in the winter, but other members of the household may feel "chilled to the bone". <S> Also, the quality and efficiency of the insulation in each region (outer walls, door seals, attic/roof insulation, etc) will have a direct bearing on any energy efficiency values. <S> Another factor to consider, which recommendations usually take for granted, is what is the usage of each floor, and are both floors above ground or is it a 1st/main floor and a basement? <S> For example, if the upstairs contains only rooms which are used primarely in the evenings and at night, they can typically stay a little warmer during the day in the summer, since the majority of the time isn't spent there, just as keeping a living/media room warm overnight in the winter typically isn't necessary... unless there is a reason to (plants, temperature sensitive equipment, etc).
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A simple solution is just to set the thermostats up with an allowance between them to compensate for the thermal convection.
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How do I seal seams between bricks on a patio without using sand? I have a patio that's made of bricks with fine sand filling the gaps. This is turning out to be a maintenance hassle. Every time the kid or dog gets mud or crud on the patio I hose it off and manage to blow more and more sand out of the cracks. Is there a way to seal the seams between the bricks or use something more sticky than sand... like a fine grout? I like the look just fine, but it appears that I'm going to be spending a lot more time than I desire on maintenance of my patio. <Q> What you are looking for is a joint sand stabilizing sealer . <S> That should prevent washout as well as weed growth in the joints. <A> You'd need to make sure the patio was clean first, and don't use too much water. <S> Though this would be a fairly permanent solution. <A> Fill them with sand then carefully add pure cement to the top of the crack and lightly spray with a mist until the cement washes down into the sand and then no more. <S> Let it set a day. <A> You can try the polymeric sand. <S> It is sand mixed with some binding agent. <S> You fill the gaps with this sand. <S> Use a broom to remove excess from the brick surface. <S> Sprinkle <S> some water at the joints and the chemical reaction starts. <S> My experience with a specific product was so so. <S> May be I did not do it right. <S> But polymeric sand claims to be for the purpose, you are looking. <S> Here is the link to buy from Lowes.
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You could mix up a fine sand & cement mixture brush that into the gaps then water the patio to turn that into mortar in place.
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re-using wood from a concrete form? I strive to not waste materials wherever possible, and "use once then discard" methods are particularily irksome. So with this mind, what suggestions do you have for enabling re-use of lumber used for concrete forms? <Q> If you use it for a form again no problem . . <S> . <S> otherwise, the remnants of the concrete on the wood will damage your power tools. <A> Going on the advice of a friend who used to teach carpentry, we painted the boards with a light coat of oil before building the forms. <S> When we knocked the forms apart there was little concrete stuck on, perhaps 10% coverage. <S> I let the boards sit and dry out completey then wacked them with a hammer, taking care of another %5 or so. <S> After that a belt sander with coarse grit paper removed the remainder of the concrete and oil stains. <S> The final result is boards that while not good as new are suitable for most applications (might not be paintable) and safe for power tools. <S> We're using them for our deck joists. <A> Typically they'll have two complete sets of forms, one which ends up being used for the concrete structure on odd-numbered floors, and another which is used for the even-numbered floors. <S> While the concrete is setting on, say, floor 17, they are removing the forms from floor 16 and hoisting them up to use floor 18. <A> I would save it to re-use as a form, or for bracing, or other one-off uses. <A> Depending on how you set it up you can build the frame on the inside of the plywood forms so that the bracing ends up being flush with the concrete. <S> This allows them to be left in place and used in place of furring strips to attach insulation, siding, etc... <S> or you can set it up so that they aren't flush, so that you may use the space for additional insulation. <S> These methods have the added benefit of not requiring you to drill holes or use concrete nails etc... <S> that weaken the structure. <S> After you remove the plywood from the exterior, you can remove the majority of the concrete with a large spade and reuse them for floor or roof decking.
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Anybody that's ever watched a concrete skyscraper go up in New York knows that you can reuse lumber forms again and again.
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How do I compensate for the sun confusing my garage door opener's sensors? Only during summer and only when the sun is close to the horizon the light from the sun confuses my garage door opener and in order to close the door I have to hold down the wired button which is a real pain if I'm leaving. A friend suggested I use toilet paper rolls (or maybe some PVC) to shield the sensor from the sun and direct the beam to the other sensor and that's a good idea but it'll mean I have to change how the sensors are mounted to the track and move them out a bit. Just moving them back might solve the problem (since they'll be blocked by the walls). Any other suggestions? Is this a common problem? <Q> It doesn't matter if the emitter is being blasted by sunlight; only the detector needs to be protected. <S> Of course you might just be changing the time of day of your problem if the other side of the door is sunlit at a different time. <S> :) <S> Don't forget to swap the wiring at the opener unit as well of course. <A> You probably only have to shield the sensor just enough to put a shadow over it (and not let the sun hit it directly). <S> I would think a small piece of cardboard taped to the side or top (or both) of the sensor that is getting hit with the sun should do it. <S> Another way would be to block the sun from outside of the garage by maybe planting a shrub (test it out by putting your garbage can in line to block the sun when it is low in the sky and see if it works). <A> I had the same issue. <S> I tried shading both the sensor and the emitter with card board and toilet paper rolls. <S> Sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't. <S> Today it wouldn't cooperate at all. <S> I even tried re-aiming the sensors. <S> I was able to prove that it was the sun causing the issue by closing the door, disengaging the door from the opener, and activating the opener. <S> It worked fine with the door closed. <S> So....after giving it some thought..... I decided to find some glass cleaner. <S> I cleaned the sensor and the emitter. <S> After that it worked fine even in direct sunlight without any type of shading. <S> Hope this idiot fix helps!!!! <A> Placing a tube around the sensor/emitter might work, but it sounds like <S> that would easily break if kicked or struck by something passing by. <S> Amazon has this one for $11.99 . <A> no more sun problem stopping the beam so the door now works. <A> What a pain that must be. <S> Could you raise or lower the sensors a few inches up or down to make it less inline with the sun? <S> I agree with Jeff, all you need is just enough to make a shadow. <S> Really not much else you can do, other than disable the sensors which would obviously dangerous and not recommended. <A> I placed a semiclear plastic food service glove over the receiver has worked so far. <A> I placed a piece of black construction paper around the receiver. <S> This helped me to solve the problem.
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You could swap the emitter and detector units so that the emitter is on the sunlit side. Perhaps a polarized filter for a camera would be taped or somehow fixed to the unit. I cut one lens off and slid it behind the sensor so that it covers the lens: I used an old pair of polarized plastic safety sunglasses that were $6.00 new.
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Are High End Furnace Filters worth the cost? There are many levels of furnace filters. I can get cheap ones at walmart of a few bucks. Then there are ones that cost upwards of $30. I realize that if you have allergies or low immune systems, these are probably worth it. Also if you have pets they may help. But for average folks, with no medical needs, are they worth the cost? <Q> The problem with the really cheap filters is that you really should replace them monthly. <S> I usually go with the cheapest 3 month filters, since I know I'm not going to get down there every month to replace the super cheap ones. <S> Aside from that consideration and the ones you already mentioned, there's no need to spend lots of money on a top of the line filter. <S> They aren't going to make your furnace last any longer. <A> For the heat mode they are ok, for cooling I like the old horse hair reusable types we sprayed with sticky stuff, they filtered better as they got dirty and allowed air to flow for the AC mode. <A> NEVER use a high MERV rating 1 inch filter in any furnace. <S> Filters with MERV ratings above 6 restrict air flow too much and cause expensive repairs. <S> If you have a 5 inch filter frame installed, you can then use the higher MERV filters without problems.
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The slightly more expensive filters often only need to be replaced every 3 months or so, which in reality doesn't actually make them that much more expensive.
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How to get discount prices for replacement parts I inherited an old fridge a while back that had a broken ice maker. I never had an ice maker before I so started to look into fixing it. I found a parts store and bought a new one for $100 and installed it myself . . . it was surprising easy. I thought I was king of the DIY world until recently I found out that I could buy a new fan motor for my AC unit for $150 but if a "professional" went to the same supplier he could buy the fan for less than $50. Now I'm starting to think that the $100 ice maker repair from 5 years ago would cost less then $30 if I went to the store in overalls or something. And don't get me started on the price of a capacitor for an AC unit . . . they'll charge you $200 to install a part that they list on the invoice as $140 and $60 for a service call . . . but it's a freaking capacitor! $10 tops. How can I get the same price the pros get? <Q> I used to buy my appliance parts at Amre Supply , and never bought anywhere else, so this is only one data point. <S> But one time I was flirting with the checkout girl <S> and she said "you know, if you make a business account you'll get about a 40% discount on nearly everything". <S> All it took was an online application and a business card, which I had for my computer software business. <S> I just checked the "other" box on the "what kind of business" question. <S> After that, I just identified by business name and got the discount. <S> And lest you think it was my James Bond Socializing Skills <S> that got me a business account, I just printed the application online and brought it in, about a month later, where it was handled by a 67 year old retired plumber. <S> So maybe you just need to pick one place and ask if they have business accounts. <S> Ya never know. <A> Just call or e-mail them and ask for a better price. <S> More often than not you'll get a discount. <S> Works on appliances, materials, parts and everything else. <S> Exception: big chain stores. <S> My better half does this for most of the things we buy for the house. <S> Maybe her voice plays a role here -- hard to say :) <A> However, you can always try to hackle the price down. <S> It's amazing how much you can save when you use some time. <S> You should find the right places though, the all organized places with big catalogs is usually a hard place to get discounts. <A> I buy replacement parts for my appliances online. <S> The best source I've found so far is http://www.repairclinic.com/ <S> I don't work for them, nor do I get referral fees, etc. <S> Off the top of my head I can remember purchasing a replacement valve for my dishwasher (~$15,) sealed glass cook top for a range (~$110,) and an oven door handle for same range (~$25) <S> All these prices seemed very reasonable. <S> Just make sure whomever you use <S> has pictures of the parts online <S> so you can match them before ordering, and a good return policy if you do end up ordering the wrong one. <A> Online is generally the best way to procure parts, but sometimes going to the supply house is necessary to be sure you're getting the proper part(s), or you're under a time constraint. <S> Plus they have all kinds of neat stuff inside those places <S> - I always end up picking up extra items when I'm at Grainger, et al. <S> I used to work for a large industrial controls manufacturer <S> , I could walk into just about any industrial supply house, use the account set up for that business and just pay cash. <S> That worked for years, even after I left that place of employment. <S> Unfortunately I moved to a distant city, so that plan is now kaput. <S> On the flip side you can use your own business, (or create your own "business" - business licenses aren't very expensive) and sign up for commercial accounts wherever you need. <S> The counter people at those supply houses don't care if you work for One Dude Software Corporation or General Electric - only if your business info is in their database! <A> In case of the capacitor, if you knew all the specs of the capacitor (this is not just about capacitance and maximum voltage, but things like safety features, peak and sustained maximum currents, temperature ratings.... <S> *) you could have bought a serviceable replacement capacitor at an electronics parts supplier (RS, Digikey...) for a very, very competitive price. <S> If you are lucky, the original manufacturers part number remains on the spare part, so you can try to find an identical one via such a supplier. <S> In rare cases, the part sold as a spare could be a modified or specially selected part - manufacturer buys a lot of part XYZ, tests them all to their own specification and throws away (or uses in another application) <S> the parts that do not meet it. <S> What you are buying with a manufacturer supplied spare part is their knowledge of which specifications on eg a capacitor matter in that appliance design, and choosing the right parts from the market. <S> Another reason for the markup is that the appliance maker, not the capacitor maker, is responsible for having a supply of spares available, so they might well keep a lot of spares in storage that will be useless once the appliance line becomes obsolete and uncommon. <S> And even "the pros" will pay a huge markup here compared to what they'd pay an electronics supplier for some capacitor. <S> Price politics "against" DIYers might have to do with the expectations of buyers when it comes to returning "defective" parts - a higher likelyhood that an amateur will want a refund on a spare that they themselves damaged trying to install is probably assumed, and the cost for that included in the price. <S> *DO NOT DO SO unless you are sure of what you are doing, especially if it is about capacitors in mains-connected circuitry. <S> A Rating "120VAC" without further qualifications, for example, would not by a long shot mean the capacitor is suitable for being used here - and capacitors can fail catastrophically.
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You will probably never get the same prices as a professional as you don't buy as much as they do.
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How do I fix gutter nails that are coming out? Many houses in my neighborhood are about 5 years old and are experiencing similar problems with their gutters. The nails holding them up are pulling out little by little. A couple homeowners had their's fall off. I took a look at mine and saw a few nails sticking out. What's the correct way to fix this? Just hammer them back in and hope for the best? Fill hole with adhesive (Liquid Nails?) and hammer back in? Hammer in a different kind of nail? <Q> If the nails are loose and pull out easily, just pounding them back in won't help much. <S> The best way to fix any kind of nail/screw hole where the screw or nail won't grip any more is like this: Remove the screw/nail. <S> Take some toothpicks and dip them in wood glue (e.g. tightbond). <S> Stuff <S> as many toothpicks into the hole as you can, snapping them off flush with the hole. <S> Put the nail/screw back in (while the glue is still wet). <S> I find myself doing this most for loose door hinges, but it works for pretty much anything. <S> Once the glue dries, the result is better than new. <A> They make special Gutter hangers . <S> They also make Gutter screws . <S> These might be a better option if the nails simply won't hold. <A> Remove spike and replace with gutter screws. <S> They're about 7 inches long and larger diameter than the existing nail hole. <S> Reuse the tube the nail went through or use a new tube supplied with the gutter screws. <S> If the hole in the facia is too large just drive the screw slightly above or below the existing nail hole into solid wood. <A> Replace them with screws. <S> Nails, (also known as Spike and Ferrule) are an old school way to hang gutters, which is hard to see nowadays, usually you'll see it in older homes, (if the gutter is still hanging) and just simply in my opinion are a bad way to hang gutters that will not last long. <S> Gutters will expand and contract with heat / cold. <S> This will make for the nail system to weaken and eventually fail. <S> Hemmed gutters are supposed to be "free-floating" to allow for expansion and contraction, but for time saving purposes, pretty much everyone uses gutter hangers and screws to the back of the gutter. <S> Straight back gutters are designed to be used with hemmed hangers. <S> The advantage of screws vs nails, is that screws are much stronger because of the threads, and are much better at not allowing the gutter to move as much depending on the weather. <S> You should really consider using gutter hangers with screws or if the screws are not long and / or thick enough (since you're likely going in an existing hole), get hangers without the screws and use your own screws. <S> Hangers have hooks that hook onto the face of the gutter (hem) and are also press formed / stamped, wider, which makes them much stronger, and usually pretty cheap, you can even get them at Amazon . <S> I would definitely stay away from nails. <S> Nail vs gutter hanger with screw and without screw. <A> If you want to go the glue route, I'd recommend Gorilla Glue - it's water-activated, and intensely-difficult to get rid of once dispensed. <S> I'd also think about switch to screws if you could, a la Tester101 's suggestion.
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The best way to fix your situation is option 4: remove the nails and use hangers with or without screws.
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How do I fix stucco that is falling off of the walls? I have slump block walls that were covered in stucco at some point and now in places it's falling off. I know I need to power wash the wall and then use some kind of bonding agent so the new stucco will stick to the old wall but how do I apply the stucco? I feel like going from the skip trowel stucco look to the adobe look but that's a lot of walls to cover just to avoid learning how to do it the skip trowel way. Suggestions? <Q> This depends on how patient you are. <S> My personal experience with plaster and stucco is that this is definitely one of those jobs best left to a professional: they'll cover in an hour what a beginner would take two days for. <A> Preparation is all important for this kind of work. <S> You need to make sure you remove all of the loose stucco because if you don't it will affect the finish and durability of the repair. <S> My approach would be to use a wide cold chisel and lump hammer to go beyond the loose areas into the area that's still sound a little way. <S> If you get a good stable surface then there shouldn't be a problem getting the stucco to stick. <S> One point to consider - if you call a professional they'll have all the right tools and the experience, whereas this will be a learning experience for you and to do a good job you might end up spending almost as much on the tools (though they can be hired). <A> You could just remove the loose stucco, clean the bare wall, then apply Weldbond (white glue) mixed with water at a 10 to 1 ratio: apply the bonding agent, let it dry, then reapply the bonding agent, then apply your coating. <S> But you might find that down the road, the work you have done is fine but other areas might just peel. <S> Metal lath is the way to go, because it will never peel.
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The best thing you can do is remove all the stucco, then fasten a metal lath over the full area, then apply your base coat or base coats, then apply the finish coat.
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What is the best quick repair for a drain pipe? In particular, a cast iron drain pipe. It doesn't have to be pretty, but needs to be effective and should last until it can be fixed properly. <Q> Depending on how and where it broke it going to affect what you can use. <S> I'm going to assume you're not looking for a suggestion of duct tape. <S> You just slip it on one side of the break, align the pipes, and slip it over the break and tighten down the hose clamps. <S> There also exist pipe wraps that harden to do temporary repairs, that you can find in most hardware stores, but I've never used it. <S> I've used epoxy putty <S> when I had a leak right at a coupling, so <S> I wasn't able to get wrap something tightly right where it was. <S> You just knead it together, press it into the leak, and wait for it to set up. <A> Temporary fix: <S> You can tightly wrap a rubber band around the pipe. <S> Since there is no pressure in the drain pipes, that will work just fine, unless the pipe gets clogged and filled up with sewage (and even in this case the pressures would be small enough for such a fix to work). <S> My parents' apartment has a cracked cast iron kitchen drainage pipe. <S> The rubber band was placed there more than 20 years ago: still works. <S> You shouldn't probably try to beat this record :) <A> See this article . <S> For a quick temporary fix you can use a repair sleeve, or clamp. <A> In the end I used Denso Tape and wrapped it tightly around the pipe - no leaks so far. <S> Disclaimer: it's awful stuff to work with - several pairs of disposable rubber gloves highly recommended. <A> Purchase 14" <S> x 6' length of shower liners. <S> It comes in 6' widths <S> so you have to buy the 6' <S> but it only takes 14" to wrap around the pipe. <S> If the section of the damage is smaller than 14", then you could buy a smaller piece. <S> At my plumbing store it is sold by the square ft. for $2. <S> So, for the piece that I stated at the beginning, it cost me $7. <S> Then take some roofing tar and place it in the middle of the patch where the leak is. <S> Then use big hose clamps to make a tight seal at both ends.
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For long straight sections, where I had to cut a pipe, I've used rubber pipe connectors .
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Where should my furnace filter go in a Lennox G40UHX series furnace? I have a Lennox G40UH(X) series furnace , which is installed in our attic (We have a single-story house on a slab). Because the furnace is installed in the attic, it is "laying down" on its side, and the incoming air is piped into what would be the bottom of the unit if it was standing up. We have intake vents in almost every room of the house (small vents, about 12" long by 8" tall). These vents go up to the attic, and they're all routed into a big metal box which is appears to be welded to the bottom of the furnace. Because this is kind of hard to imagine, I mocked up a little image of my setup (this isn't my actual furnace, just a similar picture I found on Google): I have flexible ducts leading to the cold air intake "box" that is welded to the bottom of the furnace, and round flexible ducts leading from the hot air "box" to all of our vents (which are in the ceiling). The problem I am having is that I can't see where to install a filter! I can remove the front panel and see the bottom motor, but there's no where to actually put a filter. According to the User's Information Manual : This unit is not equipped with a filter or rack. A field-provided high-velocity filter is required for the unit to operate properly. A filter must be in place whenever the unit is operating I don't have any idea what a "field-provided filter" is. When we bought the house, there were a few destroyed filters in the attic next to the furnace (all of different sizes, a few cut to different sizes, but no filter in the furnace. It looks like the previous owners had no idea either. So, for now, we've just been running the furnace without any filter. Is there something I can do to put a filter in? Is it really harmful to run the furnace without one? Should I look into putting filters in all of my little air intakes around the house? Update: As is usually the case with me, I put off worrying about the furnace until it started getting too cold here at night. I finally climbed up to the attic and took a good look at the furnace. There isn't any indication of where a filter should go, and no slot to slide it in or bar to hold it in place. This is the air intake area - you can see the circulating fan on the right, behind the control board: I put the filter along the bottom - a 14x25x1 fit snug across the whole side (bottom if it was standing up). I had to fold and bend the filter some to get it inside the furnace. The only thing that seems to hold it in place is the body of the circulating fan: <Q> Usually the filter is mounted between all the return ducting and the furnace itself - potentially it is installed at a strange angle or covered up with tape or something. <S> Here is a picture of mine, it's the darker colored piece the duct is attached to, with foil tape sealing it to the furnace housing. <A> I have the same filter location as referenced by Steve Armstrong. <S> There is no slot for the filter but it is just held in place over the return duct by a metal arm. <S> Here is the opening between the return and the blower: alt text http://serverintellect.jeffwids.com/public/20100802_762_furnace_filter.jpg <S> And here is the filter in place over that opening with the metal arm holding it in place <S> : alt text http://serverintellect.jeffwids.com/public/20100802_762_furnace_filter_2.jpg <S> I would not have known <S> a filter was supposed to go there if there hadn't been one there already. <A> I don't know if this is common or not, but in our current house and our previous house, the filter is in the return vent inside the house. <S> The vent grate has two little latches that allow it to swing out of the way, revealing the filter. <S> To check if yours is like this, just look for the latches and/or look through the vent slots and see if you see a filter. <S> Edit: <S> I should have read your post a little more carefully <S> , I didn't notice you mentioned "all my little air intakes." <S> So clearly you don't have just one return vent <S> that could be housing a filter. <S> At any rate, if a filter were present it would have to be between the return box at the left of your diagram and the unit itself. <S> The installer should have built a gap in there to accept a filter, just like in gregmac's photo (but preferably this would be a slot rather than needing to be taped in!). <S> If you're not seeing something like this <S> I'd recommend modifying it, or having someone do it if you're not comfortable doing it. <A> Sounds like the unit doesn't hold the filter. <S> It must be custom installed right between the return duct and the unit. <S> You'd think the hvac guy would leave some kind of access panel. <S> Mine is just like @gregmac's picture, except I can get at the filter on the opposite side via the blower access panel. <S> Your going to circulate a lot of dust without a filter. <A> At my old house, there wasn't a slot to put the filter into. <S> Taking the door off the side showed me the motor, like you've said, which was situated inside the cold air return chamber (much like your picture). <S> The filter rested on two notches on the outer edge of the chamber, and basically blocked my view of the motor. <S> See if there's a way to place the filter "in the way" of the cold air as it passes the motor. <S> This disgusting image shows how the door opens to reveal the motor, and the air filter is placed at an angle in the way of the motor. <S> Air flows from above and hits the angled filter. <S> ( source ) <A> Just like the installation manual clearly says: <S> This unit is not equipped with a filter or rack. <S> All G40UH(X) filters are installed external to the unit. <S> Which means it is installers responsibility to implement filtering system, Lennox has nothing to do with it. <S> Here's the 2 rules of thumb (all, not just Lennox): <S> If furnace is located in the attic then filter is placed at intake ceiling vents. <S> If none of the above, then stick one any size that can fit in between intake ductwork and blower motor. <A> You need to install a return air grill designed to have an air filter installed. <S> This is much more convenient and more likely to get changed as a result. <S> The placement of a filter in the unit in an attic is not a wise choice. <A> It sounds to me like the 'return vents' are actually exhaust vents from the heater. <S> My attic heater has a return duct directly below the heater at floor level in the living room. <S> The filter is in front of this return duct (20" X 30" filter). <S> There should be a rather large flange on the bottom or side of your heater for the return duct to attach. <S> It sounds like your heater is sucking in cold air from the attic and heating it instead of sucking in the already heated air in your house for recirculation. <S> An expensive way to heat a house. <A> Filters should be inspected monthly. <S> Clean or replace the filters when necessary to ensure proper furnace operation. <S> Replacement filters must be rated for high velocity airflow. <S> Table 1 lists recommended filter sizes.
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If furnace is located in the basement then filter is placed at furnace between intake ducts and blower motor. Page 28 of the installation manual (PDF) says this: Filters All G40UH(X) filters are installed external to the unit.
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Is it normal to install (pvc) decking like hardwood flooring? Forgive me I'm a newb. We have become the proud owners of a new deck. One of the features that we thought was great was that the boards are installed fairly snugly and diagonally nailed into joists like hardwood flooring. However, I'm used to seeing decking installed with screws nailed into joists from the top. Is the method my contractor chose normal? Will boards be popping up on me in the years ahead? Edit I'll add that there is some spacing between boards, just not as much as I am used to seeing. Maybe on the order of a 1/8 inch spacing. <Q> I would not build a deck that way for a couple of reasons. <S> First, decks should have some space between the boards for drainage. <S> Otherwise water pools, accelerates rotting of the wood and makes the deck slippery. <S> Second is expansion. <S> Given that outdoor boards are alternately soaked and baked, there is significant shrinking and expanding of the boards (another reason for gaps). <S> That will be most pronounced in the width of the board versus the thickness. <S> As the board expands it pulls out the nail. <S> If the nail is pounded into the edge it will pull out more since there is more expansion in that direction compared to a vertical nail. <S> Screws don't pull out at all, and that's their principle advantage and why I always screw down deckboards. <S> Nails are preferred by many, but I haven't seen them nailed into the edge, and I think it's for good reason. <S> Edit: if it's a composite as others have suggested, everything I just wrote is a waste of pixels. <S> Unread it. <S> Edit 2 <S> : Turns out that this product is PVC plastic, and uses a HIDfast hidden fastening system Fastener System , <S> Azek decking product installation videos . <S> The product is also tongue and groove. <S> Sounds like the contractor did a good job. <A> I found that when it comes to decks, you're always going to have boards popping up if you're using nails. <S> The fact is that screws form a much much better bond and are much harder to come loose than nails. <S> In fact, I just helped my brother in law redo his deck with screws instead of nails because of boards sticking up. <S> When it comes time to repair, use screws. <A> I'm going to assume that your decking isn't standard 5/4 (1" thick) treated pine, because it would be impossible to nail it down that way -- hardwood flooring planks are nailed along one edge, but the other edge is held down by a tongue and groove joint between it and the previous course of flooring planks. <S> Simply nailing each course of standard (non tongue & groove) deck boards as you describe would leave the "trailing" edge of each board completely unsupported. <S> So I'm guessing that what you have is a composite deck or one made of an exotic wood, where there's either a tongue & groove between each board, or each board is grooved to accept an hidden fastener. <S> Either way your deck should have a longer, more trouble-free life than a standard deck that's face-nailed.
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Some contractors use nails because it is faster and cheaper than doing the same with screws, and it'll be a few years before the owner has to redo anything.
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How do I safely and cleanly remove sealant from a plastic bath? I really need to replace the sealant around the bath, but I want to do a good job of removing the old stuff first. The bath is a plastic one, and the walls are tiled. What's the best way to get the old stuff off without leaving any residue or damage, so that fresh sealant can be applied? <Q> You might have to resort to good old fashioned elbow grease. <S> The sealant should come off the tiles the easiest, both mechanically by scraping with a plastic edge - the flat edge of an adhesive spreader should be suitable, and if necessary chemically (though I'm not 100% certain what you can use) as the glazed surface will hard to damage. <S> The plastic bath might cause more problems. <S> I'd start with rubbing or scraping with the plastic edge - but take a lot more care. <S> Chemicals are more likely to damage the surface too. <A> I bought a kit similar to this one , and it worked rather well for both removing the old caulk and reapplying the new. <S> It's plastic, so you shouldn't have to worry about scratching anything up with it. <A> This is a great article on how to remove the different types of caulk . <S> It also talks about the pros and cons of different types of caulks when you reseal. <S> From the article: Silicone caulk can be removed with a sharp, single-edged razor in a razor blade holder. <S> Be very careful to keep the razor angled low so that you don't scratch the tub or shower pan, especially if it is a plastic or fiberglass. <S> A utility knife can also be used to cut the caulk from between the tiles and the tub if the razor can't quite get it out, especially in deeper pockets and corners! <S> Sometimes, if you have a porcelain tub, little black lines will appear on the porcelain as you scrape off the caulk, even though you know you didn't scratch the surface. <S> These marks usually come off with the alcohol wipe. <S> If they don't, use a little scouring powder or Soft Scrub... with a minimum of water. <A> Usually bathtub caulking is silicone caulk, which can be a bear to clean off. <S> You can usually peel off most of it, but smudges and remnants remain <S> and I know of no solvent to remove cured silicone. <S> One tip I read somewhere <S> (I have never tried it) is to use a drafting eraser - you know, the white kind with the paper sleeve. <S> Apparently it will remove the smudges and last bits of clinging caulk. <S> If you try this, report back on how well it worked! <A> 3M caulk remover works wonders- <S> if it's compatible with your tub. <S> It didn't eat our fiberglass tub, but it did eat the acrylic surround. <S> Basically, you throw it on and leave it sit for a few minutes to soften up the old caulk, then scrape. <A> I use white vinegar for final cleanup. <S> It also cleans up any mineral deposits right beside the caulk. <S> Clean up well as you will want the new silicone to adhere properly. <A> Walker's answer is the good one. <S> Silcone caulking is soluble in acetic acid, notice the smell of it when applying. <S> And vinegar is 4% acetic acid <S> , you can get stronger stuff at a plumbing supply store, but vinegar works. <S> It doesn't fully dissolve old silicone, but it breaks the seal between it and the plastic and it doesn't harm acrylic. <S> It does remove lime deposits as well. <A> I will never glue a shampoo holder on again.
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We have a fiberglass tub surround and after using a razor blade I used Bar Keepers Powder on it and with a bit of rubbing with a wet cloth it all came off and did not dull or scratch the finish. You could try using a plastic safe cleaner.
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How do I balance a ceiling fan? About a year ago I installed a new ceiling fan in my living room and when it was installed it was balanced nicely, but it has a little wobble. How do I bring it back in to balance? <Q> Most new fans comes with a balance kit. <S> It includes a heavy clip and a set of stick-on weights. <S> If you don't have the balance kit you can buy one at a big-box home improvement store. <S> First, run the fan at each speed tosee where it wobbles worst. <S> Put theclip on one of the blades near themiddle and run the fan at that speed. <S> Check if the wobble improves orworsens. <S> Repeat the process with each blade,and narrow it down to the blade thatgives the most improvement. <S> Now, try moving the weight towards the tip of the blade and down to the hub, testing each time you move to locate the sweet spot. <S> Finally, attach the weight at thatsweet spot. <A> Three things come to mind. <S> The easiest and probably first thing to try is clean it (as Eric suggests). <S> Make sure all the bolts and screws are tight, this may require taking the fan down and reinstalling it. <S> If the fan was not properly secured when it was installed (it was mounted to an existing electrical box), the fan could have loosened the screws/nails holding the box to the rafter/ceiling which could cause the fan to wobble and fall. <S> They have some that are for new work, or where you have access to the attic. <S> They also make ones for old work, where you can put the brace up through the hole and tighten it down until it bites into the rafters. <A> Have you tried cleaning the blades? <S> At high speed, just the dust buildup (which can be significant) on the blade edges can cause a bit of a wobble. <A> Cleaning and tightening will probably do the trick, if not some blades have a bit of adjustment in them. <S> Failing that... <S> One time I left the fan on in my parent's cabin for six months after I had a party there. <S> When we got back it was still going but vibrating like it had a missing blade. <S> My dad, bless his heart, just rolled his eyes and told me to deal with it <S> : he'd only get mad at me if I couldn't fix it. <S> I tightened everything I could <S> but it didn't help. <S> Finally I tried taping a rock to the top of each blade in turn. <S> I tried each blade: the third of four seemed to cut down on the vibration a bit. <S> So I started taping pennies to to that blade. <S> At around 10 pennies the vibration was minimal. <S> Couldn't get it better than that, but it was good enough that my dad said "Ok, don't be such an idiot next time" instead of walloping me. <A> On some fans, the metal arms that hold the blades have some bend in them. <S> I've balanced fan blades by just bending them slightly up or down and doing a lot of trial and error. <S> Just be careful not to break them. <A> Your box is attached to a stud, right? <S> Check to make sure your box did not come lose from the stud. <S> This all will require you to take some or part of the fan down. <A> I balanced my ceiling fan with chalk and pipe insulation. <S> Make sure the blades are screwed in tightly. <S> I taped the chalk to the end of the pipe insulation, then slowly brought it up to the edge of the spinning blades. <S> It leaves a mark on the heaviest place, so you put weight on the opposite side. <S> I broke a lot of chalk, but it's cheap. <S> You can use the opposite end of the pipe insulation to hold against the bottom of the blades to slow down the fan <S> so you don't have to wait until it stops spinning on its own.
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When installing ceiling fans I always use one of these braced boxes . Besides cleaning and swapping fan blades, check to make sure it the down rod with the ball (if you have one) is properly seated in with the slot in the down rod ball with the tab in the bracket that goes to the fan box.
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How do I replace a bulb in this bathroom light/fan? Can figure out how to open it. alt text http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/2743/img4094s.jpg Maybe somebody has a similar one. <Q> Try turning the glass and see if it has hooks that hold it in place (kind of like how a smoke detector hangs onto that plate on the ceiling). <A> The entire visible portion, including the plastic ring around the glass, can gently be lowered -- grab the ring on the outside, gently lift it a bit off the ceiling, ease it away from the ceiling looking for the portion where it slides away along a metal clip. <S> When it is sufficiently lowered from the ceiling, you will have exposed the bulb and can replace it (as I did in mine yesterday, after consulting a handyman neighbor who figured this out). <A> Might be clips around the perimeter. <S> Try running a butter knife or some kind of shim around the outside to see if you hit anything: if you do try poking in on it. <A> Mine has spring-loaded clips shaped something like this: alt text http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/2968/diyclip.png <S> The glass cover hooks onto the base of the clip, and when it's all assembled, the lower wide spots pull the glass cover up firmly against the surround. <S> To open it, I have to pull down firmly on the glass (there are a couple of indentations on opposite sides to give you a grip) to get past the resistance of the first wide part of the clips. <S> Once it's down, the glass hangs from the second wide parts, about an inch below the surround. <A> Maybe the outer ring comes off first? <S> Either twist or pull down to release clips. <S> Then you could get at the light cover. <A> I have this type of fixture over the tub. <S> You have to pull the outside edge of the fixture that rests against the ceiling. <S> Then you have to reach in with your fingers to squeeze the 'triangle shape' wire clips in order to lower the fixture. <S> Once the light has been pulled down far enough, you have to squeeze the wire clip together in order to remove the ends which are inside an opening in the recessed part of the fixture. <S> The ends of the wire is bent to the right and left to secure it against the inside fixture recessed below the ceiling. <S> Its tricky <S> but once you squeeze a clip together you can open enough of the fixture to get at the bulb and remove it. <S> One side is now disconnected from ceiling fixture. <S> You can also do the squeezing of the wire clip on both sides to fully remove the fixture and replace bulb. <S> Hard part is once the bulb is replaced, squeeze both clips so that fit into the opening in the base of the fixture and once in they provide tension <S> and you can just push the fixture back against the ceiling.
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Then I just undo one of the clips to get at the bulb.
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What material should I use for a custom, do-it-yourself desk for my home office? I am currently remodeling my office, a converted formal dining room, and I am stuck on what material to use for the desktop. Currently I have a 1" thick Cherry Veneer particle board that is 6' wide x 30" deep. I want to increase the depth slightly (I like to rest my elbows on the desk while gaming) and am finding it hard to decide on a good material for a 36" depth that has an attractive finish. I would be happiest with a black veneer on the top (non-shine). Any suggestions, or even places to purchase or order in Orange, CA would be awesome. I am not shy in building one either, if anyone has any suggestions on the construction of a strong top. <Q> Durable and hardwearing, too. <A> Particle board or some form of fiber board or plywood will eliminate the issues you might have with solid wood warping. <S> If you veneer the top surface, you should veneer the bottom as well to avoid the veneer warping the board if it shrinks or expands on only one surface. <S> Remember to treat the top and bottom the same (varnish, oil, or other). <S> Another thing that helps reduce warping is strips or batons. <S> When screwed through slots in the batons into the underside of the desktop, it will allow the top to expand and contract, yet still be held flat. <A> Ikea sells desk tops separately from the legs, perfectly suitable as building materials for your DIY super desk. <S> They are reasonably priced and available in many sizes and finishes. <S> There are several stores in the greater L.A. area. <A> Have you looked at getting some thick particle board and laminating on a veneer yourself? <S> That will be less limiting in your color choices than trying to find pre-finished tops. <A> If you want to build your own you would need to use a hard wood such as oak, cherry, or walnut. <S> You would then join all of the suitable length pieces together to give you the width you want (36" allowing for a little extra for milling). <S> Then you would cut it to size and sand and finish it. <S> Although this would take some learning/knowledge and also a fair bunch of new tools :). <A> I'm not a big fan of particle board. <S> It's not all that strong and you need to paint it and make sure that if it gets scratched you fix it right away before any water can penetrate. <S> The plastic veneer on top of the particle board from IKEA is strong and would work but doing it yourself isn't easy or fun. <S> You can paint it black <S> but that would be wood murder. <S> If you want to paint then get a cheaper plywood and edge it with Poplar (pine would work too <S> but it's not much cheaper <S> and it's softwood).
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I like plywood with a nice maple or oak veneer with a solid wood border made to whatever thickness you want to see. Perhaps kitchen worktop is the way to go - plenty of choices in finish, thickness and size.
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How can I fix a door that doesn't close because it doesn't fit the frame? Two closet doors in my house won't close all the way. When they are about 85% closed, it stops because the top of the door is rubbing up against the frames. It looks like I need to move the door down about 3-6 inches a half inch. The doors are hollow except for about a foot on the top and bottom. I want to avoid having to take the door and hinges off and redoing the hinges. Is there anyway I can avoid that? A step by step would be very helpful, even if there is no way to do it without moving the hinges. <Q> If you're having the same problem I had, and it's a case of rubbing but the door could be forced closed (so it's just slightly off), I just made a note of where it was rubbing with a bit of crayon <S> (wipes off easily), then took a small hand plane to shave down that area slightly. <S> Unfortunately, I also made the mistake of passing off the plane to my house mate, who wasn't familiar with its use, and he ended up taking a chunk off of his bedroom door. <S> I have no idea how he managed to do it. <S> So, for using a plane -- you want long strokes, and try to shave the door off -- if it gets caught and starts splitting the grain, stop, move back further, and then lightly shave down past where you had the problem. <A> I can't believe 3-6 inches is correct. <S> Maybe 3/16 of an inch? <S> (even that is pushing it). <S> The easiest way to fix this is to take the door down and trim a bit off the top of the door. <S> I'll usually just run the door through my table saw to trim it down, but a power planer would probably work better if you have one. <S> Otherwise a hand planer will work too, but could take a while. <S> Be careful how much you trim off though. <S> You say the door is hollow except for about a foot at the top and bottom, but if it's like most hollow core doors these days, it's probably more like an inch at the top and bottom. <A> This might be a matter of tightening/loosening screws. <S> Check out this post - http://www.prettyhandygirl.com/fixing-common-door-problems/ : <S> On my closet door (shown above) I loosened the top hinge screws to increase the gap and tightened the bottom hinge screws to reduce the gap. <A> I would just trim. <S> Then the hinges won't have to be moved. <S> Don't try to trim just one side, but take an even amount off. <S> After cutting, I usually use a belt sander to smooth the edge and knock the edge of the cuts. <S> Tip - If the door is painted nice, or varnished, put some masking take on it for the saw to slide on. <A> Since you say Closet doors, it may be that the hinges are adjustable <S> If you see hinges like that, then the large screw at the end of the hinge is adjustable, clockwise to go out, anti-clockwise to go in. <S> Your doors may be chipboard and would not take kindly to plaining.
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The easiest adjustments you can make on a door is to tighten or loosen the hinge screws.
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How does central vacuum suction compare to regular vacuum? We recently moved into a new home with central vac. The vacuum unit is in the garage, as is typically the case, and seems to be in good working condition. I cleaned the "bucket" underneath and made sure the grid inside is free of dirt/lint etc. It seems to me the suction when actually using the central vac system is not quite as powerful when compared to a regular vacuum. I can understand that the system is much "bigger" i.e lots of air in the pipes and much longer distance for particles to travel. Is it expected that the suction should not be as strong as regular vac or am I dealing with a blockage or perhaps under spec vac? <Q> I'm answering my own question here - maybe and admin can move this as a comment to my original question: <S> I did some more research on how to detect and clear blockage in central vac system. <S> I disconnected the vac bucket from the unit and then used a regular vacuum at each outlet. <S> At one of them, a huge amount of debris came out, including a "fabric softener" sheet and some other bits of dirt. <S> This must have clogged the system enough to drastically reduce suction. <S> The change in power is unbelievable . <A> I'm going to assume that the vaccuum was sized to the house, <S> so it's not under-spec, although poor maintenance might mean that it's underperforming. <S> I'd suspect one of three things -- a blockage, a poorly performing pump, or a leak in the system. <S> If it's a blockage, unless it's right near the pumps, you'd have some areas with good pressure, and others past the blockage with poor pressure. <S> (and the pump would be straining to keep up). <S> You might be able to map out where a blockage might be by determining which ports have good suction, and which ones don't. <S> If it's a poorly performing pump, it's difficult to diagnose, but you might try listening for sounds of a straining motor <S> and/or any odd smells. <S> (I'm not so good in this field, so can't really say much more, a bad seal could cause just as bad as a problem, and I don't know if there's a good way to test for that.). <S> If it's a leak somewhere, the whole system won't be able to come pressure, so you'll have poor pressure everywhere. <S> There might be additional dropoff at the leak if you were to try to map out which ports have worse suction than others, but as the suction is poor to start with, and some dropoff is standard for a pressuried system, it might be difficult to identify. <S> You might be able to better pinpoint a leak by intentionally clogging up the line, if it's run as a line with multiple ports off of it, rather than them all branching from one point. <S> You'll need a two-way radio, baby monitor, or something similar. <S> Put the transmitting end near the pump, and carry the receiving end with you. <S> Open up the port, and intentionally block the tube on the side heading towards the pump. <S> If there's no leak in that section, you should hear the pump straining. <S> Luckily, leaks are unlikely (unless perhaps if you've had an earthquake in that area), because I have no clue how you'd go about actually repairing it without tearing out the walls. <A> Check all the cover plates to make sure they seal correctly when the vacuum is running. <A> The central vacs I've used have been more or less the same strength. <S> If there's a remarkable difference, if it's really under-powered, then there's something wrong - either a blockage or too-small vac. <S> But if it's nearly the same strength, just a little weak, there's probably nothing wrong.
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Certainly more powerful suction now than my regular vacuum.
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How do I clean the oven really well? I need to clean my kitchen's oven really well. It is electric, has a "grill" element on top, and a fan behind a grating which, apparently, cannot be removed. I tried with the spray products for ovens but I cannot reach every part of it, and I always have the sensation that I'm not cleaning, I'm just detaching oil but even after removing it with paper and cleaning more with alcohol, the oven stays oily anyway. Do you have any hint on how to clean it as close as brand new, and what are the precautions to keep (if any) in order not to ruin the grill element ? <Q> Don't use alcohol to clean an oven. <S> If your oven has a "self cleaning" mode, try that. <S> It basically puts the oven on full blast (2-3x the normal baking temperature) and "burns" all of the crud out. <S> Sometimes there will be some charred stuff behind that you have to wipe out after it is done (see #3). <S> Because of the extreme temperatures involved, there is usually a safety latch on the oven door to lock out the self cleaning mode. <S> Use oven cleaning spray. <S> Easy-Off is the most popular example of this. <S> You spray it on, wait a few hours, and then wipe it out with a damp sponge (follow the instructions). <S> All of the crud in your oven will turn into a brown sludge that just wipes away. <S> Be warned, oven cleaners are extremely caustic. <S> Use rubber gloves, and don't rub your eyes while you are working. <S> The fumes are nasty too. <S> They have newer low-odor ones, but they can still make you gag. <S> Option #3 will make your oven look shiny and clean. <S> However, it takes a lot of manual labor to get it looking good. <S> Might take more than one cleaning session. <A> Easy Off is a great product for cleaning the oven - but if you're sensitive to chemicals I'd use a respirator and gloves. <S> (That's what I do) <A> Alcohol isn't the best solvent for grease. <S> You're better off using dish soap in water. <S> A toothbrush is handy for cleaning hard to reach crevices and grates. <S> I'm surprised the grate doesn't come off. <S> Look for clips along the edge (feel with a shim), and gently try to pry it off from the edge: many are just a friction fit. <A> Have you checked whether it has a self-cleaning mode? <S> It can help burn off spots that you're not able to scrub off. <A> To remove grease, I use vinegar . <S> I keep a spray bottle of it handy. <S> Many people dilute 50/50 with water, but I don't. <S> It has to be really black, not brown. <S> The baking soda reacts with the black stuff and flakes it off. <S> To spot-clean, I mix a paste and keep it moist for a day. <S> If the whole oven is dirty, I mix a few tablespoons of baking soda in a spray bottle of water. <S> A couple times each day, in a clean oven, I spray it on all surfaces lightly. <S> Not enough to bead up and drip, but just enough to keep everything moist and get baking soda everywhere. <S> Then when I'm ready, I spray with vinegar and wipe. <S> It reacts with the baking soda and breaks things up. <S> It also cuts the grease.
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To remove burnt-on food, I use baking soda and water . You can try calling an appliance parts store with your brand and model: they'll have a manual so can tell you how to get the grate off.
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The carpet on my stairs is worn. Should I repair it or just remove it? In our house the second floor and the stairs to them have carpet over top of old hardwood floors (installed by previous owner). The carpet is wearing out, particularly on the stairs where it has come untacked in a couple places so that when you go up or down them the carpet will at times slide forward creating a hazard we need to deal with. We can see under the carpet in a couple places and the floor looks okay, but not great. Does it make more sense to remove the carpet and risk the condition of the floor underneath or try to tack the carpet back in place? What would be involved with retacking it down? If the finish on the original floor is in poor shape, is it a problem just to leave it alone (assuming no splinter hazards)? Finally, if we remove the carpet, what will we need to do to remove the tacks and other carpet related things from the floors? <Q> I'd go ahead and pull it up and see what you've got. <S> It sounds like it's in pretty poor shape <S> so you're going to have to get rid of it either way. <S> Depending on how the carpet was installed you'll probably find tack strips that look something like like this: You might also find staples -- I don't know if this is common but our installer used a staple gun in some troublesome spots. <S> Most if not all of the staples will probably be pulled out when you rip out the carpet. <S> If they're really rough <S> and/or you want to recarpet, leave the tack strips in place and hammer in the staples. <S> For minimal damage I'd recommend this type of prybar available at box stores for ~$14: <S> Use a hammer to tap the pointy claw end <S> (like you would hammer a chisel) under the head of each nail holding the tack strip down, then pry up the nail enough that you can get your hammer's claw under it to pull it out. <S> No tools ever need touch your stair tread. <A> I had oriental carpeting which wore along the front edge of the steps. <S> My clever Mom told me what they used to do in the old days was to move the carpet a half step so the worn part would then be the crease on the next step down.... <S> so I did it <S> and it worked perfectly <S> , I still have that nice antique carpeting which I love and was cut to order, but it's not as spendy. <S> Good ol' New England thrift! <A> I love hardwood floors, so I would rip the carpet out and re-finish <S> the hardwood if it wasn't in good condition. <S> If it's not, you can always put new carpet down. <A> If the carpet is frayed, it will have to be removed anyway. <S> You can then decide whether to put new carpet on or refinish the wood floor. <S> Even if you end up hiring a company to sand and lacquer the floors, you can save hundreds of dollars by removing and disposing of the carpet, setting the nails, and doing any necessary repairs yourself. <S> We removed the carpet from the stairs and several upstairs rooms. <S> These were pine floors, but they had been carpeted at least since 1945 (dated by the newspapers used as carpet pads). <S> The downstairs rooms have old (some perhaps a century) and quite nice pine floors, and we were hoping for the same in the rest of the house. <S> While we are satisfied with the result overall, there were some disappointments: <S> Two small holes where the corners of floor boards have split off. <S> We placed furniture over them. <S> Pieces of the floor had been replaced near old radiator leaks. <S> For the most part it looks fine, but in one place a board had been replaced with plywood. <S> A lot of sanding was necessary. <S> I hired a company to do this. <S> The floors now go up a few millimeters near the walls, where the machines sanded less. <S> Even after sanding, there are holes from staples and nails, especially on the stairs. <S> Boards joined in funny places, perhaps because the location used to be covered by a doorway.
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If you do want to leave the stairs uncarpeted, you can just remove the tack strips, being careful not to damage the floor underneath. Before removing anything, take a look at the hardwood stair treads and make a preliminary decision about whether you think they're in good enough condition to leave exposed.
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Hanging an interior door I reversed the doors to my bedroom (they're small "french" doors I guess but they don't have glass or open to the outside like normal french doors) so they open out instead of in (the room is small despite the big door opening). Come to think of it there was a door missing when we bought the house (yes, it's been over a year and I'm just getting to fixing this door problem) so I had to buy a new one and it wasn't an exact match for what was there before so there is about a 1 inch gap between the doors that I figure I could fill in with a piece of wood and some sanding. Anyway . . . after reversing the doors and hanging the new door the gap between the doors is different at the top than at bottom. I know that means something isn't level but I checked it with my four foot level before I attached the door frame and everything was fine. Any tips to hanging interior doors? It looks so easy on TV! <Q> Did you check the frame again after hanging the doors? <S> Also, maybe too late for this now, but you mentioned that the old frame was about an inch wider than the new one. <S> That seems a bit strange. <S> Is that the rough in dimensions, or the finished frame dimensions? <S> Usually the rough in is a couple inches or so wider than the actual door frame dimensions to give you some room to plumb things up with shims. <S> So if you had a 48" door set, the rough in width would be 50" - 48 for the door, 1 more for the frame, and 1 more for shimming. <A> Take the 4 foot level and check that the frame on both sides is still plumb when the doors are hung, then place the level on the edge of the door to check if the doors are hanging plumb. <S> make sure both doors are square, using a T-square . <S> Previous owners may have plained/sanded the doors to account for less then plumb door frames. <S> If one of the hinges is not in line with the other, it can cause the door to not hang properly. <A> Check your level to make sure it's accurate. <S> Place it on a level (or nearly so) <S> surface like your kitchen counter. <S> If the surface isn't exactly level then note the direction and degree to which it's off. <S> Then spin the level around end for end, without flipping it over. <S> The bubble should either be in the middle if it started in the middle, or it should be off by the same amount in the same direction as before (that's direction relative to the room, not relative to the level). <S> If that's not the case then your level is off and should be replaced. <S> It shouldn't be much harder than it is on TV, which is what makes me think your level is out of calibration.
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Could be that the frame wasn't securely attached to the studs and the weight of the doors is causing the frame to pull out slightly. Make sure all the hinges are mounted to the same depth.
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What's a good way to seal a flat concrete roof? My guess is that a long time ago there was a fire in part of our house and what was the top storey was capped and the floor replaced with thick slabs of concrete. This was then sealed over with bitumen and left as a flat roof, with traditional pitched roofs on either side. Now, however, it seems something is failing and the roof has started to leak. It's always pooled water on the top to half an inch or so, but the last lot of heavy rain caused a stain on the ceiling underneath. That was easily redecorated, and I've made sure the drain to the gutter is properly free flowing now, but I don't want it to start again. What's a good way to seal this roof so that doesn't happen again? I've used flash-band to patch up a couple of obvious cracks in the bitumen but I'd rather have something more permanent. <Q> If you don't have a problem with water pooling any more, the real answer is probably to have a professional roofer look closely at the roof both on the inside and outside. <S> The problem with a lot of roof leaks is that where the water shows up in the house isn't where it comes in. <S> Water has an annoying tendency to run along internal beams and such, then come into the house far away. <S> You can go over any edges with new tar and hope you catch it <S> but in my experience this approach ends up being like playing whack-a-mole <S> , you patch and wait for it to rain, then patch more and wait more, etc. <S> So I would say if you can do it yourself, look closely at the underside of the roof as well as the outside. <S> If you don't find anything, a professional roofer is probably in order. <A> Consider EPDM rubber roofing. <S> It can withstand ponding water (the same material is frequently used to line ponds) and doesn't require expensive specialized tools to install. <S> The materials are frequently warranted for 20 years, and if your roof isn't too large, you can probably get away with a single-sheet seamless installation. <S> I'm planning a DIY install of EPDM on the roof of my garage, a detached structure made entirely of poured concrete. <S> The rubber comes in a roll and is adhered to the roof deck using a liquid adhesive. <S> If the roof deck isn't clean -- mine has decaying coatings of tar/bitumen and some sort of elastomeric coating -- you first fasten down rigid insulation boards, and then adhere the rubber on top of that. <S> (The insulation boards are made of polyisocyanurate, and sometimes called "iso boards"; a 1/2" thickness is common but 1" may be useful on particularly uneven surfaces.) <S> As Tester101 suggested, Thermoset Membrane roofing is probably a better solution, but not really a DIY option because it requires heat-sealing equipment. <S> EPDM doesn't seem to require anything more specialized than a paint roller for applying the adhesive. <S> There are several vendors who sell the materials online, although I'd also suggest checking with local roofing supply stores because the shipping charges can be high, especially if you're using certain chemical adhesives that require special handling. <A> You could look into installing Thermoset Membrane roof . <A> This solves another problem you presumably have: how to insulate a floor-turned-into-a-roof. <S> Spray foam at that level must be professionally applied. <S> On top of the foam goes an elastomeric coating which keeps the foam protected from UV light, and granules which protect the coating. <S> The DIY part may be preparing the roof, tearing off the old material, and designing the gutters. <S> Foam is a very good long term option. <S> It's expensive to make minor patches. <S> But unlike asphalt shingles there's no definite lifetime: <S> keep up the coating and it can last your lifetime and beyond. <S> Also consider having a structural engineer look at the slab: is concrete in that place really a good idea? <S> Is that going to crash down someday?
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Consider a spray foam roof.
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How much cooling can I expect from a central air conditioner? Yesterday's high was 106.0F, low of 79.2F, full sun all day. AC set at 78F, indoor temperature reached about 85F.Today's high was 105.4F, low of 81.1F, full sun all day, now about 102 at 7pm. AC set at 78F all day, temperature climbed steadily through the day, and is now 89F. Is it reasonable to expect an AC unit to maintain 78F in this weather? <Q> A properly functioning and properly sized central air conditioning unit should be able to maintain the temperature of your house at any reasonable temperature you select. <S> The amount of cooling available is related to the size of the system, insulation in the house, and finally outside air temperature. <S> From your description I would guess either you don't have a big enough compressor, or you don't have enough airflow through the house. <S> It's also possible the cooling element in the system has become dirty and <S> no longer transfers enough heat from the air into the element. <A> The first thing to check is the return air filters. <S> If they're dirty, your system won't be able to keep up. <S> Also, if the coils are dirty or the refrigerant is low, you will not get efficient cooling. <S> You can clean your condenser coils (the outside unit) yourself using a jet of water from a hose. <S> Contact a service company to clean your evaporator coils, do a system check, replace refrigerant and do repairs. <S> The amount of in and out traffic you have, shade trees, insulation, type of windows, etc., all play a part in how well your system works. <S> It's been about 100 degrees F here the last couple of days and the thermostat is set at 78 and has had no problem maintaining that. <A> We had the same problem in our house, and we've simply lived with it - having had HVAC companies come out and inspect or evaluate it. <S> They all said the system was in good working order, and was appropriately sized for our house. <S> This year we replaced 3 windows and a doorwall in the first floor of the house, and suddenly we can not only maintain a temperature, but go lower if we want. <S> The air conditioning is doing fine, even though we've still got three old aluminum frame windows upstairs. <S> It was about 80 square feet of window surface that was cheap double glazed aluminum frame, and is now cheap composite framed, double glazed with low-e coating. <S> (anderson 100 series). <S> So if you've checked the interior coils, the exterior coils, and the system performance and it is still not cooling your house to your satisfaction, it is likely that you need a bigger air conditioner, or you need to better insulate <S> your house - windows might be a big part of that loss. <A> There is a point where it gets so hot outside that air conditioners simply can't do anything to get rid of the heat (the outdoor coil temp equals the outdoor air temp). <S> This is extreme though, > <S> 110 deg <S> F. <S> You're getting pretty hot, but shouldn't be at that point yet. <S> (Most A/C units will have specs on this. <S> You can try looking up some specs for it online.) <S> You indicated the system is turning on and off, so I don't think it's your thermostat. <S> How cold is the air coming out of your vents? <S> If the system is working properly, it should be as cold as your fridge. <S> If it isn't cold (not cool, cold), you have a problem. <S> Look at the lines on the outdoor unit. <S> Are they frosting up at all? <S> Is there excessive dripping from your indoor air handler? <S> If your lines are freezing up, turn the system off and call a service company. <S> That means you are probably low on coolant, and running the system without will burn up the compressor. <S> Other problems that would prevent cold air would be crud on the coil, or the fan on the outdoor unit not working properly. <S> If the airflow is weak, then you have an airflow problem. <S> Check the air filters in the system. <S> Make sure your ducts aren't plugged somehow. <S> Check for closed dampers or closed vents. <S> Make sure a duct didn't pop loose somewhere (blowing air into the attic instead of out the vents). <S> Make sure your air handler is blowing air. <A> To get a measure of your air condition performance , try to get a temperature reading, just in front of the inside unit. <S> If it is below 10 Celsius - 50 <S> Fahrenheit then it's probably working good and you have to consider the sizing issues of the unit (btu , size of room vs size of compressor etc). <S> All this from my personal experience. <S> Hope to offer some help.
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As others have said, if the unit is properly sized for the house, and the insulation is good enough to keep the heat out, and there is enough airflow in the house, the A/C should be able to handle almost any temperature you set it to.
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Best review sites/web resources for finding a contractor? Many times we need to hire a contractor and try to extensively google for reviews on that contractor. Sometimes to no avail :( Just curious what web resources you use when trying to find a contractor? Be it a review site or some other method, what have you used in the past to identify the best person for the job? <Q> I wouldn't just trust a ServiceMagic reference without being able to find some other proof of the quality of the contractor. <S> I do not have a specific list but usually if the contractor has a quality website, business license, 800 phone number, etc. <S> then they get some points toward being awarded my business. <A> Angie's List is a subscription-based review service for contractors and service providers. <A> Not a website, but the best way I've found to find contractors is to talk to them at other job sites. <S> If you know where any new houses are being built near-by, run over and talk to the contractors on site. <S> They can show you their work and recommend others that they work with too. <A> I found that none of the services like Service Magic or Angielist allows for a bad feedback from the client. <S> If you are not a happy customer, there is no way to post your review about your bad experience with your contractor. <A> I've had a different experience than @Bea with angieslist.com. <S> I don't have any insider connection to angieslist (other than being a customer). <S> Perhaps the experience is different in other markets, since angieslist splits their subscriptions up regionally (I'm in north Alabama, USA). <S> Or perhaps angieslist has changed over the past year since @Bea posted. <S> It has been an invaluable resource for me personally over the last year. <S> After floundering for years with bad plumbers & electricians, I've now found great ones almost exclusively via angieslist. <S> For big jobs, I still meet with the contractor before hiring him (common sense still applies when using angieslist). <S> I read bad reviews all the time on angieslist, so that criticism also doesn't apply in my experience. <A> I've used the Craig's List services section, but without much luck. <S> I don't know if it my breath or something, but even people posting ads that seem desperate for work never return my messages. <A> I've had much success with contractors from http://homestars.com/cities <S> Check to see if they have listings for your area.
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I have used ServiceMagic (http://www.servicemagic.com/) in the past and been pretty happy with the results (I was able to find a good electrician through it), but that was along with checking up on the contractor through a Google search. I strongly recommend that you read the full text of all angieslist reviews before hiring a contractor.
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What "code" applies to projects that I do in my own home? A good portion of the answers and discussion on this site references "code". What does a DIY-er need to know about code as it relates to project in their own home ? Most of what I can find online either refers to commercial projects or third-party projects. Also, which code applies? For example, I live in Fairfax County, Virginia, in the USA. It would seem that there are at least 3 levels of code that might apply: Fairfax County Home Improvement Code State of Virginia Residential Code International Residential Code <Q> You need to contact your local building department. <S> In the U.S., most of the residential building regulations exist at the state level, but in many states the codes can be amended by counties and even individual towns. <S> The International Residential Code and its competitors are "model codes." <S> States often adopt model codes (with local modifications) to avoid the cost and hassle of writing their own codes from scratch, and also because it is beneficial for codes to be harmonized so that the same building materials can be used in different locations. <A> In Washington State (and most, if not all other states) <S> Just because you're DIY <S> doesn't mean you get a break from being code compliant. <S> So when you pull a permit, the work you do is required to be compliant to the spec at the time. <S> e.g. electrical work permitted today is generally bound to the 2008 National Electric Code (aka NFPA 70). <S> Work <S> I did on my house in 1999 <S> is compliant to the 1999 NEC, but if my permit says I went and made alterations to that work done 10 <S> + years ago, I would still have to make any upgrades to meet the 2008 spec. <S> The difficult part is knowing what or who is the governing authority or specification regarding the work you're doing. <S> Calling your county/city building inspector should get you the right answers when there are situations where different code bodies offer ambiguous or conflicting information. <S> Also just visiting the website for your city/county code enforcement office (mine does this) will have guidance on what work requires permitting and what doesn't require a permit. <A> Vebjorn explains it pretty well. <S> Codes are generally set at a local level (state, county, or city) but localities don't usually write their own codes, they usually just adopt a particular year version of a national code (e.g. the National Electric Code ). <S> They make their own ammends to those codes as well though. <S> Technically everybody is subject to whatever codes are adopted by their locality, but in reality homeowners can get away with pretty much anything they want on their own home. <S> Of course following the codes is recommended for safety reasons and to prevent issues that may come up during an inspection at resale. <S> As an interesting legal side-note to this, many of the national codes are actually copyrighted works. <S> Because of this, you actually have to pay to buy a copy of the law in order to know what the law is. <S> I believe that this technically violates the constitution as laws cannot be copyrighted, but most localities skirt that by having a copy of the code book on hand that you can stop by and read. <A> In the UK, "code" is the Buildings Regulations, available from here . <S> In practice there's different levels of assessment required roughly corresponding to risk. <S> For instance, work on gas installations and some electrical work must be performed by a qualified engineer. <S> Similarly, while anyone can do structural work it needs to be inspected afterwards by the Building Control Officer of the local council. <S> These regulations have teeth: not only legally, but it can be difficult or impossible to sell a house that has structural defects to anyone that needs a mortgage. <S> (I had to have an installation of an RSJ inspected thirty years after installation by a previous owner when I sold a flat in Brighton.) <S> Different more strict regulations apply to properties that are "listed" (i.e. considered of regional or national historic importance) or in a conservation district. <S> Grade 1 listed buildings need to have permission granted by the council if you want to paint an interior wall, for example. <S> See also the question on buildings regs versus planning permission, here . <A> Working to code and working under a permit do not have to be related. <S> I always advocate doing work that meets or exceeds code, but many things in your own home do not require permits. <S> However, most cities are not going to turn you down if you offer to give them money for their permission to work on your own home. <S> Home Owners Associations can also have a say in what you can do to your home. <S> Even if work is done to current code at the time, if code changes you'll usually have to include modifying a building to meet the new current code in any request for a work permit. <S> There are still lots of buildings out there which need work or repair, but aren't getting them because code has changed. <S> Accessibility features (ramps, elevators) are a common sticking point in commercial buildings. <A> Here are some reasons that you should follow the applicable codes, even if you could "get away with" not following them: Safety: Codes are written for a reason. <S> They address real problems, and ignoring them can cause real issues. <S> Liability: If someone visiting you property gets hurt because you didn't follow the codes, there is a big liability issue there, possibly even criminal liability if gross negligence can be proven. <S> Resale: If work is not done to code, you may not be able to resell the property. <S> Future work: If you have unrelated work do in the future, you may not be able to get the work approved if other parts are not up to code. <S> On a related not, work is supposed to conform to the code at the time that it was done. <S> If the code changes in the future, you do not have to redo anything. <S> However, if major remodeling is done you may have to bring everything up to the current code.
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Any homeowner with the proper permit(s) can perform work on their home - but the work is required to be done to the applicable code, inspected and signed off, just like a professional contractor.
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Is toenailing necessary for a joist-to-ledger attachment? Is it sufficient to rest joists on joist hangers or should you always toenail (drive screws/nails at an angle through the joist). And does the toenail have to drive into the ledger or just hold the joist on the joist hanger? <Q> You should always nail your joists to the joist hangers, using the type and quantity of nails recommended by the hanger manufacturer for the type of hangers you're using. <S> Double-shear hangers, the most common type, will have special nail holes designed to direct the joist nails at an angle through the joist and into the ledger or header. <S> Typically you'll use 16d or 10d standard-length nails for the joists, and short 1-1/2" 10d nail for fastening the hanger to the ledger or header. <S> Here's an image from Simpson's website of a properly installed double-shear joist hanger: <A> Always toenail . . . <S> just resting it on the joist hanger means it could slip out. <S> Some joist hangers have a place for you to nail though the hanger, into the joist, and then finally into the ledger. <A> I would always use at least one toenail to prevent the joist from shifting around on you (either while you are working or later due to warping) <S> Face nailing through the ledger into the joist works fine as well.
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It's better to run the toenail into the ledger, but just attaching it to the joist hanger is fine too.
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What's the best way to install a pet door in an exterior wall? I want to install a pet door to allow my dog to let herself out. The door would run out onto a deck attached to the back of the house. On the wall connected to the deck, I have a sliding glass door and enough wall space that the pet door could be located in a bunch of different situations. So the question is, what would be the preferred location/installing method? In the sliding glass door itself? (Seems difficult if not impossible) In the wall next to the door, between studs? (Cutting through drywall, insulation, and the exterior wall/siding) In the wall centered on a stud? (Not sure how much this would differ from option 2) Once the hole is made, would you frame around it? Do they sell pet door designed for exactly this (vs placing in an existing metal or wood door)? <Q> Looks like they do sell pet doors for that purpose. <S> You can even pick the size. <S> As far as installing it, I think the last thing you want to do is center it on a stud. <A> PetCo carries the Perfect Pet All Weather Series <S> Insulated Pet Door and has a " wall kit " that boxes in the area of the hole. <S> (source: petco.com ) <S> Something you might have to take consideration of, <S> depending on the wildlife in your area, is that other animals may figure out how to use the door to get in your house. <S> Our door is a more basic version of the PetCo one I linked above, but has a sliding panel on the inside that closes the pet door. <S> Unfortunately, one of our dogs is afraid of the plastic flapper, so he won't use it. <A> My in-laws have a sliding glass door pet door. <S> The door fits inside the track of the door. <S> It works well for them. <S> Perhaps you should check it out: http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deluxe-Panels-Sliding-Medium/dp/B000633RX8 <S> It matches the height of the sliding glass door. <S> The model they have has clear glass so you don't lose visibility. <S> Other models may be completely plastic on the inside with an aluminum frame. <S> It can be removed because it has a spring catch at the top which you use to fit it to the door. <S> Imagine it cupping the upper track and you can slide it up/down with your hand. <S> This is the least intrusive solution I think. <S> Once installed, the sliding glass door butts up against the pet door <S> insert so the dogs only go through the pet door. <S> You can add strip insulation where the sliding glass door and pet door meet to reduce air from escaping.
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I would go with an in-wall installation - since you live in Fargo, you're likely to want the extra insulation it can provide. There are different types of electronic doors that you can get that have a tag you put on your dog's collar to allow them in and out.
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How can I find a match for ~100 year old door/window trim? Our house is around 100 years old, and during the course of a bathroom demo, the contractor irreparably broke part of the window trim. Of course, the big box and local lumber stores are completely useless for finding a match. I imagine the design was common and is probably still available somewhere in bulk. I've also seen an HGTV show where a place used tools that follow the curves of a sample piece to create a match. The problem is, I don't have a clue where to start my search... any ideas? <Q> <A> If the damage is small: plaster, wood filler, Smith's flexible epoxy or bondo can work wonders. <S> Note the bondo stinks really badly. <S> But for the ultimate, get proper molding made. <S> Turns out there are now several factories that automate the reproduction of historic molding. <S> You send them a 6 inch section, they build a knife to match, and cut as much as you want: <S> In the photo, my original 1938 molding is on the left, the new stuff has the green end. <S> I paid $150 setup plus $1.30 per linear foot, delivered. <S> I ordered through a local retail outlet "The Moulding Company" in the San Francisco Bay Area. <S> I had some spare made also, so this house at least is covered for all foreseeable accidents. <A> There is a really good place down in Houston, Texas. <S> I love shopping at this place because of all the interesting old reclaimed building supplies they have, especially old plumbing fixtures, doors, windows, and doorknobs. <S> I checked their web-site <S> and it looks like you can shop online: <S> Adkins Architectural Antiques & Treasures <S> If nothing else they might be able to refer you to someone local. <A> There is a wide variety of router bits available online. <S> Handheld routers can be had for less than $200. <S> Some are even less than $100, but the ones I have seen have ¼-inch shanks. <S> Some of the “interesting” router bits are only available for ½-inch shanks. <A> For example, in Seattle, Washington, USA, there are several: Earthwise, Ballard ReUse , and SecondUse. <S> They've been invaluable to pick up parts to fix up my 100+ year old house. <S> It can be hard to find exactly what you need on the first trip, but if you find it, it will be typically be much cheaper than getting the trim new. <S> You're more likely to find what you need by making weekly trips with a good photos and a notebook of needed vintage house repair/replacement parts. <S> Inventory in those stores varies greatly day to day. <S> There is a ReStore location finder on the Habitat for Humanity website. <S> (It's a benefit org of Habitat for Humanity). <S> Search for "architectural salvage" in your area. <A> A good, local lumber company should be able to tell you whether such a thing is available. <S> Even if they don't stock it normally, if it is available, they should be able to special order it for you.
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If there is a "ReStore" or other building salvage store in your town, you may be able to find some original vintage trim options there. Look for a local furniture shop or woodworker and ask if they can make it.
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How can I straighten pipes behind a wall? The original builders did a shoddy job when they installed the plumbing in the bathroom, causing the taps/faucets to come out of the tiled plasterboard wall at a slight angle - about 5 degrees - so the flanges aren't flush against the wall. Any ideas on straightning the pipes without breaking the wall; I don't have any spare tiles and am unlikely to find any. <Q> Can you cut the wall on the other side of the pipes? <S> That might let you get at them without breaking the tile. <S> In other words, the holes in the wall and tile may no longer be in the right position. <S> You may be able to flex things to make this work, but not necessarily. <A> Get a long sturdy pipe with a large enough inner diameter so that it can just slide over the pipe you want to bend. <S> Push the large pipe in through the hole in the tiles as fas as you can. <S> Use it as a guide/lever to bend the copper(?) pipe to the angle you need from inside the wall. <S> It will all depend how much was cut out of the tiles to allow for the plumbing to come though, but that is the only way I can think without hunting for new matching tiles. <A> If you are just wanting the flanges to sit flush on the wall, then you can modify the the flange center hole. <S> The modified center hole will be more of an oval than a circle.
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Be aware, however, that if you do, it may not help - if the pipes are at an angle, and you straighten them out, you're going to end up with the pipes wanting to come out at a position slightly to the side of where they are now.
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Is there a detector of plastic pipe? I know metal detectors for walls, but in my house there are places where it has a plastic pipe. I wonder if there is a good detector to buy. <Q> I used a thermographic camera to detect pipes in my house. <S> Let the hot or cold water run for 2-3 minuttes, and the pipes heats/ <S> cools the wall very slightly. <S> This is very visible on even the cheapest thermographic cameras. <A> I know this is an old question, but this is a common issue: find a water plastic pipe into the wall, either to work on the pipe or to avoid punching it. <S> In my case I was able to locate such pipes more than once using the sound of the water running through them as a guide. <S> there are many ways to do that. <S> Firmly press the tip of the screwdriver into the wall, and also firmly press the handle against your ear, best results are achieved if the tool is kept orthogonal to your head. <S> Just try it and you will discover what position gives you the best sensitivity. <S> Now just probe the wall in different places until you locate the pipe. <S> Another option is to use a microphone and an audio amp, or better yet a stethoscope. <A> If you can find a stud detector that can detect water in the pipes (you need something to conduct), then you should be in business. <S> This company makes a plastic pipe detector . <S> And so does this company . <S> I imagine it uses radar to do it or sound waves.
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Just let the water run through the pipe and use a big, long screwdriver as a sound probe. Typically in the ground they use expensive sensors and ground-penetrating radar to accomplish this.
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What are the different gauges of electrical wire available? What are the different gauges of electrical wire available for homes and how do you determine which gauge you should be using? If it helps, I'm wondering specifically about recommendations as I finish my basement. <Q> This article has a full list and gives examples: http://electrical.about.com/od/wiringcircuitry/a/electwiresizes.htm For the most part though, 12 gauge wire is used for 20 AMP circuits and 14 gauge wire is used for 15 AMP circuits. <S> You probably can just use the 14 gauge wire in the basement (but it also depends on what you are doing in the basement as far as power requirements). <S> For example, these days a kitchen is always wired with 12 gauge/20 AMP circuits because of all the power demands. <S> The refrigerator will be on its own 20AMP circuit and so will the dishwasher. <S> Then depending on the number of outlets/counter space you may have one of more additional 20 AMP circuits. <S> The rest of the house is usually 14 gauge but the size of the house will determine the number of 15 AMP circuits for everything. <S> Also keep in mind that 14 gauge wire is much more flexible than 12 gauge. <S> So don't just go to 12 gauge just because... <S> you will have a much harder time wiring everything if you do. <A> Really there are only two sizes you'll need to be concerned about. <S> 12 gauge ( <S> "yellow") wire is used for 20amp circuits. <S> In a typical home these are used in the kitchen and sometimes for dedicated window AC unit circuits. <S> These wires are harder to bend and work with, and also more expensive. <S> Some people use 12 gauge everywhere in order to support space heaters. <S> There are also "three conductor" versions of both 14 and 12 gauge wire. <S> You probably won't need to use these for anything, but they are most often used for running multiple circuits in a single wire or for connecting 3-way light switches. <S> There are other sizes as well, but they are generally for specialty use (like for 30/40/60 amp circuits for electric dryers, stoves or hot tubs). <A> Be sure to check local codes. <S> My county, Geauga County, OH, requires all wiring be rated at 20A, so we cannot use 14 gauge (white romex). <S> All the other posts are correct though that this will be all that you need to worry about unless you are doing something larger in your basement. <A> A perhaps non-obvious note: make sure the wire you use is rated for <S> at least the maximum load of the associated circuit breaker. <S> That is, if you need to change a circuit from 15 amps to 20 amps, you can't just upgrade the circuit breaker if the wire isn't rated for it. <S> Unless you're putting together a practice building for firefighters, of course. <S> Similarly, if you're putting in a circuit that you foresee potentially upgrading in the future, it might make sense to use a beefier wire. <A> For more detailed information on wiring sizes, you should also check out the National Electrical Code at your local library (in the U.S.) <S> Pretty much every state and municipality has adopted it as the starting point for their electrical requirements. <S> Your locality may have additional requirements as well, though (for example, Chicago requires ALL electrical wire be run in nonflammable conduit). <S> There are a lot of rules regarding box sizes, where to fasten cable, how long wires have to be once inside the box, etc.- all for fire safety reasons. <S> Off-topic, but all basement circuits except for a sump pump need to have GFCIs installed too.
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14 gauge ("white") wire is used for 15amp circuits and is what you will probably use for everything you are doing.
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Which hammer drill should I buy? I'm looking to buy a cordless hammer drill. What should I buy? Note: It can be just a drill not a screwdriver too if that makes a difference. Its purely for diy. No real budget in mind, more just looking to see what makes I should be considering. <Q> Cordless <S> I re-read your question and saw it said cordless. <S> I don't have a cordless but <S> this website rated the Milwaukee 0824-24 V18 Lithium-Ion Hammer Drill Kit as the best. <S> The Hitachi DV14DL 14.4-Volt <S> Cord <S> I have this one and it works pretty well - Hitachi 5-Amp 5/8 <S> " Hammer Drill <S> Don't forget to buy a good hammer drill bit if you are doing true hammer drill work! <S> Non-hammer drill bits will break. <S> I suggest carbide tipped drill bits for this task. <S> The smaller the drill bit though, the faster they break - carbide or not. <A> I have a $300 Dewalt 18v hammer drill with a 1/2" chuck I bought back in 2003 or so. <S> It works great, but it's heavy. <S> The brushes are worn out- <S> I have to pick up some replacements. <S> I use it for everything though. <S> There are definitely lighter ones out there now. <S> Milwaukee also makes very good stuff. <S> Make sure you get a drill that's well-balanced. <S> Mine is fairly long and has the handle all the way to the back- <S> which makes holding it level for any period of time difficult. <S> Most these days have the handle shifted forward a bit to center the load over it. <S> Make sure you get something with lithium ion batteries. <S> I have 2 <S> (NiMH?) <S> batteries, and they're both pretty much shot (although they are old). <A> I got the LXT Lithium-Ion 18v hammer drill from Makita and am very happy with it. <S> I'd recommend getting a kit with a hammer drill and an impact driver. <S> Both tools are incredibly useful and good at what they do and you can save money by buying them together. <S> The kit also comes with two batteries, which is very useful even when predominately using one tool.
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Lithium-Ion Cordless Hammer Drill is another quality product available for about the same price as the Milwaukee drill.
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Why does the plaster crack beneath the window sill? Sorry if this is an obvious question. Can anyone tell me why the dry lined plaster in our house so frequently cracks beneath the edge of the windows? At first I thought it may be relating to the heat changes or something over time; however, we've recently had a room stripped down, new plasterboard put in and it's been re-skimmed, and three weeks later, it's cracked just beneath the edge of the window. The cracks are barely visible, and don't seem to get any worse over time - they just crack and stay cracked. <Q> I've seen this happen often at the corners of windows and doors. <S> My first question would be - is there a seam in the plasterboard where the crack is occurring? <S> If not, is the crack just through the skim coat or is the board underneath actually cracked? <S> If you just plaster over the crack, it will certainly crack again. <S> The caulk should be flexible enough not to crack again. <A> What's the soil like where you live? <S> I grew up in the Cdn prairie. <S> The soil there was sandy clay. <S> He was very amused at the lengths to which people went to patch cracks in walls, etc, only to have them re-appear the next summer. <S> Everyone assumed the houses were shifting, and the #$@))@#$ foundation contractor didn't do a good enough job, etc. <S> but in reality it was the nature of the soil. <S> If you're on ground like that, then the cracks will always appear at the corners of windows, doors, etc. <S> because those are natural flex points if the house moves a bit. <A> It's no big deal -- just stress cracks in the plaster that form your house settles, or when the humidity and heat cause the wood to expand and contract. <S> If it bothers you cosmetically, you can just skim the cracks with plaster. <S> Avoid the pre-mixed plaster that they sell at the big-box stores, as its difficult to spread it really thin. <A> Wood casement around your windows swell and contract with weather changes and humidity in the house. <S> This causes the plaster in the lower right and lower left corners of your windows to crack and shoot the crack downward. <S> Sometimes it's a hairline and sometimes a small chunk. <S> Only 2 ways to stop it is either replace entire wooden window casing(terrible idea) or remove the plaster over the corners, chisel the wood casing deeper into the wall, fill the area with compound, then mesh and skim over the entire area. <S> Paint and smile. <A> I've seen this in areas where the foundations are built on a shrink-swell clay or above a shale formation. <S> Doorways and window openings are the weak spots in the walls, so that's where you see the cracks. <S> Get with someone in your local USDA or Conservation District office, they can tell you if soil type could be the culprit.
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I would try either taping over the crack with mesh tape and plastering over the tape or if it's just a hairline crack, caulk it and paint it. I spoke to a geologist who said that houses built in Edmonton actually "floated" - that is, they'd shift seasonally, sort of swaying back and forth on the soil.
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How can I effectively use Google Sketchup to render walls, doors, and windows? This question falls dangerously close to being a software question, but it's definitely specific to DIY... My house is around 100 years old. Off-the-shelf home design programs have nice libraries of drop-on components like walls and windows that can be adjusted somewhat to fit, but they are basically useless when trying to realistically match older wall sizes, window types, molding, etc. I love Google Sketch-up and have successfully created a few basic plans in it, but I'm really tired of reinventing the wheel constantly, or compromising my 3D design and having just a big box rather than a detailed rendering. I would love, for instance, to be able to create a wall that is exactly 9'4" tall, 5 1/4" inches thick, with a baseboard on each side that is 3/4" x 8" with a 1/2" turn edge, and quarter-round at the bottom. Then I'd like to be able to drop that into Sketch-up and simply resize it to create a custom wall that is exactly like those in my house. Same goes with the windows, doors, trim, and various other odds and ends. My experience, however, has been that SU can't think of anything as an "object", only as edges and surfaces. So, trying to reuse shapes is a bit of a pain, as is punching through walls and adding realistic windows, etc. So, any tips on how to properly component-ize my designs? <Q> You need to learn to use Components in SketchUp ; they do exactly what you want. <S> They do not "stick" to other parts of your model and won't affect other lines/etc <S> but you can still snap to them when drawing. <S> Also, you can go into a component and edit it, and the changes will be reflected in all the copies you have made of that component (or, you can break a single component free and edit only that one). <S> Additionally, the paid version lets you create Dynamic Components; e.g., a cabinet where you can alter the reveal around the door just by entering a number, or a stair where you can set the run, rise, and number of treads without drawing anything new. <S> Components will do it for you! <A> You could try creating your own plug-ins using the Google Sketchup Ruby API . <S> You may also be able to find some useful ones that others have created, <S> this site offers some <S> and I'm sure a Google search will revile other sites with similar offerings like this one. <S> Google Sketchup API Documentation Google Sketchup Community Forum <S> Here is another good plug-in site . <A> You should give Sweet Home 3D a try, http://www.sweethome3d.com/index.jsp . <S> Its not perfect <S> but it does satisfy your requirements. <A> here is the other idea how to make component to goggle skecthUp <S> Once you make your own design by goggle skecthUp, after you done your design, capture them all the way down,then right click from your mouse,then click make component,then name it/description/create/ <S> then go to statistic/ then save as/ go to folder where ever you want to save your component.if <S> you need model... just go to click file/ after click file /click 3D warehouse/then click get model. <S> After you do that just type what you need , like if you need window just type window,then click search...then there is a lot of sample of windows coming out and just download them.. and you have your window just like that. <S> hope this is helpful Good luck and cheers : ) <A> try to go here as well, is good for the beginner user <S> Click the following link
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You can also convert Google Sketchup designs into native SH3D objects.
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Is it safe to spray herbicide on the bark of a tree if you don't get it on the leaves? I've got a bunch of poison ivy growing up a tree. I'd like to kill the poison ivy, but obviously not the tree it is growing on. It is just about impossible to spray the ivy without hitting the tree, but I was curious as to whether it will harm the tree if I just get it on the bark and not the leaves. I realize it is probably safest not to do this at all, but I was just curious how these herbicides work. <Q> It might be okay, but it might not be. <S> It is possible to kill a tree with herbicides, and it is possible to kill poison ivy on its own with certain herbicides without killing certain trees. <S> Unless you're prepared to be absolutely certain that the type of herbicide you're using isn't going to harm a tree you care about, it's probably a safe bet to skip it. <S> There's nothing that a pick axe + <S> hoe + <S> gloves can't solve. <S> Rip the suckers out! <A> One method that I've heard of but haven't tried myself is to cut the vine and apply herbicide directly to the cut. <S> That way you minimize collateral damage. <A> They do make a chemical just for poison ivy <S> but I'm not really sure what else it kills. <S> Beyond that you could try to treat some of the leaves with it and slowly kill it. <S> I had to do this with some trumpet vine growing in with some roses, it worked but it took a while. <S> Cont forget to wear some sort of disposable glove too, that way you can touch the ivy and not get it! <S> Nasty stuff. <A> It entirely depends on which herbicides you use. <S> For example, Glyphosate is commonly used in Round-Up and Rodeo products and is not selective on which plant it kills. <S> Triclopyr is another popular one but can also affect wooded plants. <S> If you're very concerned about the tree, you'll likely need to speak to a professional or find another way to extract the ivy. <A> Cut the ivy off at the base of the vine and immediately paint undiluted Glyphosate (Roundup) on the cut surface above the roots. <S> This herbicide is systemic and will kill the roots. <S> Be careful not to spill it around the roots of the tree however. <S> keep an eye on the area to make sure no more ivy grows. <S> Repeat the process if necessary. <S> You can let the upper vine die off naturally. <S> Be cautious with handling dead material as it will still give you a rash. <S> I'm a landscaper and have found this technique works very effectively with lots of undesirable plants: bamboo, poke, escaped wisteria and other vines. <S> Tedious <S> but I find I seldom have to treat again. <A> I can't answer your direct question, but to build on other suggestions - instead of just cutting off the vine and painting herbicide on it, get a container large enough to hold several feet of vine (e.g. a milk jug). <S> Feed the vine into it, then fill it with herbicide. <S> This will avoid any overspray on the tree, but also let the entire vine & leaves "drink" up the herbicide and hopefully be more effective than just painting the end of the vine.
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To answer your question directly, it depends entirely on the type of tree and the type of herbicide.
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How do you protect solar panels from hail? Saw another question on solar panels and it reminded me of one big thing that always made me hesitant to consider them. We get several hail storms each year and having an expensive glass covered(?) panel facing almost straight up seems like it is asking for trouble. How do people who have solar panels mitigate this risk? <Q> Smaller panels are one way to go; see this article Hail Damage and your Solar Panels : <S> If you decide to install photovoltaic modules and worry about hail damage, there are a couple of things to consider. <S> One of the most important concerns the size of the modules. <S> If the region you live in is subject to frequent or serious hail storms, smaller modules are easier and less costly to replace. <S> Also if a large module sustains damage, it will seriously reduce the power output, or even cause the system to fail completely. <S> The drawback with using smaller modules is that they are often more expensive to install. <S> But of course there is not much that would withstand very large size hail <S> but then your home insurance should cover the damage (just like the damage that would happen to your car and/or house during one of those hail storms). <S> See this answer too: <S> Do roof solar panels and hail mix? <A> chicken wire, mounted mounted high and secured on four sides to keep it from bending and touching the glass. <S> This will cut efficiency by a few percent. <A> Most panels are designed to withstand most ordinary hail. <S> Modern panels rarely use glass. <S> For such large hail, one option might be to pole-mount the panels, then tilt them up to full vertical when serious hail is predicted (takes about 5 minutes, 2 people and a wrench). <S> This will put the faces out of harms way. <S> Of course, if you're getting that kind of hail, you're probably also under a tornado watch or warning. <S> Be sure to talk to your insurance company, no matter what you do. <S> It is NOT the case that solar panels (or any other major addition) are automatically covered - since they add value to your home. <S> Your insurer will need to increase the value in the policy. <S> In addition, the type of installation makes a difference in whether or not they're considered part of the dwelling or need a separate rider attached to the policy. <S> We just did this, so it's fresh in <S> my mind - part of our system is included in the dwelling portion of the policy, and part is a separate rider. <A> My plan is to build a frame from 2x2x1/8 aluminum angle iron frame that will provide appx 12" overhang on all sides of my array, and securely fasten 1" Mesh T304 Stainless Steel Welded .063" 48" Wide, to the frame, mounting it about 12" above the panels. <S> Panel hail ratings consider hail up to 1" in size. <S> It's unlikely that a 1" hail stone would pass through the mesh with out at least being slowed down by contact with the mesh. <S> Larger hail stones would be unable to reach the panels without breaking into smaller pieces or bouncing off. <S> The 1" mesh would restrict approximately 12% direct sunlight to the panel. <S> For example, if a panel is rated at 320watts max power, you would want to use 280 watts/panel for system sizing calculations. <S> The mesh guard could be easily removed/installed to be used only during the peak storm months, allowing full rated panel output when not in use. <A> How about put a hinge at the top edge and some type of pull pin at the bottom edge in the center. <S> When bad weather comes, pull the string attached to the latch and let gravity drop the panel to be vertical and greatly reduce the chance the panel will be damaged or destroyed. <A> I was thinking about using a roller garage door, with the motor to open and close. <S> Was thinking to build a frame that the door would fit in and just push a button if you see the panels needs to be protected, then once the threat is over just push the button again... <A> I'd go with portable solar panels... <S> Renogy makes them... <S> Sounds like they're easy to set-up and break-down. <S> Which means they fold-up quickly and will fit into a storage compartment in my motor home. <S> This should eliminate the hail storm problem. <A> I have seen metal roofing under structures prone to ice accumulation protected with 4x4 treated timber supporting chain link fencing. <S> I've never seen a roofing failure cause by ice or hail in these systems. <S> If big hail is what your worried about, this may be a cheap way to protect the panels.
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You could add some kind of a rail at the top end of the array to protect the top edges from damage. I do not think it is very expensive to get your solar panels added onto your home insurance policy (if they are not covered already).
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How can I get rid of the weeds and moss growing between the paver stones in my driveway? I used the extra strength roundup to kill the weeds. Now I have brown weeds that are still rooted in the soil between the paver stones in my driveway. I've been scraping the weeds and moss out with a screw driver but, darn, that's a tedious job. I'm hesitant to power wash them away because I don't want to disrupt the sand and risk the paver stones coming lose. If I were laying this driveway from scratch I'd use polymeric sand to prevent the weeds from popping up, but alas, the previous home owner was very shortsighted. <Q> I'd seal it with a little cement mixed with sand, about a 1:4 ratio. <S> Choose a dry day, brush in thoroughly, then sprinkle with a very very fine shower of water. <A> Hosestly the moss might give the driveway a neat look depending on the age and style of the neighborhood. <S> But if it's a newer house it night looks very poor. <S> And well weeds never look good in a driveway. <S> If it were me I would just go ahead with the power washer and blow it all away. <S> Then when your done have at it with the polymeric sand. <S> This will cover over everything and seal it up. <A> I had the same problem before. <S> But i did the most tedious way. <S> They kept growing back within days. <S> But i kept pulling them out just as they were sprouting. <S> It's easier to pull them out at their earliest stage because their roots aren't that strong yet. <S> It requires less energy. <S> Soon, the re-growing became slower and slower and lesser and lesser. <S> Eventually they stopped sprouting. <S> And anytime i see some new young grass just about sprouting again, i'll quickly go pull them out. <S> I've not had that problem again for years now. <S> I Just keep my eyes open for new sprouting grass. <A> I just found out from a neighbour, that to stop the weeds completley one should give the driveway a good clean with the gaps cleared out....then fill the gaps with some sand and finally vanish the whole drive including the gaps....
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I pulled all the grass and their roots out.
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How can I make my sink smell better? My sink has a tendency to smell awful. A few times I've poored a lemon juice & baking soda mixture down it, but it only reduces the smell for a few days. What are some longer term solutions to this problem? The smell isn't taking over the kitchen, but it's a real nuisance for someone trying to do the dishes. <Q> Does it smell like sewer gas? <S> If so, the sink trap is probably incorrectly installed, or more likely, the drain on an adjacent sink or dishwasher isn't properly vented. <S> A "vent" is a portion of drain tube that lets air into the pipe to replace the water flowing downward. <S> If there is no easy way to draw the air into the pipe (usually the vent just goes up to the roof and draws air from outside) <S> then the water from other nearby traps can be suctioned down the drain as well. <S> Without water in trap, sewer gas is free to come up the drain and make you want to move to a condo. <S> To check the problem, run the dishwasher or wait until the stink appears. <S> This can usually be done without tools since it's usually a threaded plastic pipe. <S> Check that the trap is full. <S> If it's completely full than all this advice is moot: listen to some other commenter. <S> If it's not full, then the best thing to do is to fix the drain properly. <S> They're officially called "air admittance valves" but nobody will know what you mean if you say that. <S> :) <S> They are one-way air valves that make it easier for an improperly vented drain to draw air through THEM rather than sucking out the water from the trap. <S> They're often used in island sinks where it's impossible to get a proper vent. <S> (source: homerepairforum.com ) <A> I use a combination of: Salt Vinegar Hot Water Dish Soap <S> Over time, drains do begin to smell. <S> There may be nothing blocking the drain, just some month old grease residue and remnants of the rest of the stuff that tends to go down the drain. <S> Mix <S> about 1/2 gallon of it together, with the following quantities: 1 cup vinegar 1/2 cup table salt (not coarse!!) <S> Enough soap to make it "sudsy" <S> Pour it down the drain and let it sit in the trap for 10 - 15 minutes, then flush with more hot water. <S> I do that about once / monthly <S> and it keeps the odor down rather well. <A> A liquid enzyme drain cleaner will remove the residue that is likely causing the odor. <A> Half a lemon ground up in the garbeurator works wonders for smelly kitchen sinks. <A> There is probably a large build up of organic waste materials in the bottom of your P-Trap. <S> You need to use a drain maintainer. <S> I use the Plink fizzy tabs . <S> It was invented by a plumber.
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Then get under the sink (with a bucket!) and take off the trap for the sink that smells. If that's too difficult or too expensive, you can install a "cheater valve" right before the trap.
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What's the best strategy to reduce moisture in this garage? First of all, I know this garage will never be dry . It's a standalone, one car garage built into the side of the hill that my house sits on. It abuts the neighbor's yard, and they have landscaping and flowers they frequently water. My neighbor even says the garage gets more water in it when they water a lot. Garage http://plk.webimages.s3.amazonaws.com/garage1.JPG The garage has a rubber roof with two gutters that do not effectively drain water. The aluminum edging is not sealed to the rubber, so I'm guessing most water goes straight down instead of into the gutter. There is brush cover on all 3 sides of the garage. Gutter closeup http://plk.webimages.s3.amazonaws.com/garage4.JPG Inside is a concrete floor with some cracks. The walls are unsealed cinder block. Even though it has been dry, you can see how much moisture is here. Should I try and seal the walls with DRYLOK? Inside garage http://plk.webimages.s3.amazonaws.com/garage2.JPG My ultimate goal in drying this out is to build a small climbing wall in the garage. It will be 2x4 frame with plywood. I don't mind if it's humid, but I'd prefer that it not smell strongly of mildew. I don't want the wood to rot from moisture. Plan of attack and open questions: I have considered digging a trench around the perimeter and installing a simple drain tile system. Is this worthwhile? How deep should I go? DRYLOK the walls? Obviously, fix the gutter system and roof. Anything else I should do? <Q> The proper way to fix it is to dig- all the way down to 6" below the bottom of the foundation- <S> then install drain tile & gravel. <S> Coat the outside of the walls with tar, then install plastic protector sheets so it doesn't get damaged by the backfill. <S> Condensation could still be an issue- perhaps installing closed-cell foam around the outside (say, 2-4" thick) would insulate the walls enough to avoid it? <S> You shouldn't use DRYLOK; it won't fix the problem anyway. <S> Water will just fill up the cinder blocks until it finds an opening. <S> The roof is definitely an issue as well. <S> I'd rip that rubber off, pull off the flashing & gutters, re-do <S> all of the eaves (since water has to be running right under the flashing and soaking the wood frame), then reinstall flashing & gutters, and shingle the roof (since I don't know how to install a rubber roof correctly). <A> As you say, improving the gutters is a good first step. <S> It's likely that there is no drainage system around the foundation of this garage, so that is going to cause some trouble. <S> You may be able to mitigate some of the ground water by putting a french drain around the outside, and draining it off to the side somewhere away from the garage. <S> It doesn't need to be too deep (6" is probably enough), but there should be a gravel bed wide enough that any of the water that would drain around the walls is diverted (remember, water will follow the path of least resistance). <S> Ultimately, despite drainage, you're going to have problems with condensation. <S> As the warm humid air meets the cool foundation, it's going to form condensation on the walls. <S> This is unavoidable, since it is a garage and has a giant opening to the outside. <S> If you build the frame around the inside in such a way that there is still air flow for drying, you may be able to reduce the effect though and at least somewhat prevent the smell. <S> Definitely use pressure treated wood for everything here. <A> I think you should fix up the gutter first, here's what you should do <S> : Find a good place that the gutter is supposed to go to like a street or join long pipes to the gutter under the mud and lead the long pipes to a street with some water. <S> I am not sure about this suggestion but could be could help you a bit, because your garage is build to under the mud <S> I think there is a lots of work to do. <S> Hopefully its will be fine .Very <S> expensive to dig again and re build it again... <S> : ) <S> For me the best way to do it, is to rebuild it again and do it the right way. <S> If that is okay for your budget. <S> ( SORRY! ) <A> After re-reading the question, and noticed the comment that your neighbors water a lot -- If they've over-watering, and it's causing surface runoff, then a french drain / drain tile system at the surface might be the best solution (what @gregmac) said. <S> If they're spraying onto your roof, or if you get a lot of rain naturally, I'd look to fixing the gutters first ( <S> but I'd still want to fix the gutters, anyway). <S> If they're over-watering, but it's a long, slow soak, such that it's saturating the ground to a significant depth
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, you might have to go the route of digging down to the foundation and sealing the wall; you might also be able to drain away the moisture by cutting through from the inside, and installing a sump pump below the level of the foundation, but that's going to get expensive, too. I think you're going to have a lot of problems trying to prevent water/moisture in this garage.
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What are some causes/solutions for poor drainage? What are some causes/solutions for poor drainage? It seems that our house tends to drain water very slowly. The bathroom sink could probably overflow if the water was left on, the bathtub also seems to take a while. Even the kitchen sink seems to drain slowly (though turning on the garbage disposal seems to help). I've already poured Sulphuric acid down the bathtub, but that hasn't made much of a difference that I could tell. edit : We have public sewer <Q> Since all of your drains are slow, you could have blocked or broken connection to the sewer system. <S> There are companies you can hire that will come in and put a camera down the drain pipe so you can see blockages or breaks. <S> It's been quite awhile since I had it done, so I can't remember exactly what it cost, but it seems like it was $200-$300. <A> My initial thought is that the proper venting is not established is your plumbing system. <S> You need to have "air behind water" to allow everything to drain properly. <S> Essentially it is just a vent pipe that leads to your roof so that pressure does not build up and slow the draining of your sink/tub. <S> Just like how you would punch two holes in the top of a juice can to allow it to poor smoothly... <S> the second hole acts like a vent. <S> Reference: <S> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drain-waste-vent_system <A> Try something like Draino or Liquid Plumr - both are alkaline bases, which may dissolve a clog that an acid won't. <S> For the tub especially, you may want to try just taking off the cover ( <S> if there is one) and looking to see if there is hair or something blocking it - it is easiest just to remove the stuff you can manually, then put a drain clog remover down. <S> If it's a worse clog, you can try using a snake, like this or this one . <S> I'm going on the assumption that it's not the entire house <S> that's a problem here, but it could be your main line clogged (though you'd also be having problems with toilets, in that case). <A> I would not try Drano or other harsh chemicals as these are only slightly effective if the clog is close to the drain. <S> You can usually find a plumber that will include a video camera check and sometimes this is free if you are using them to make the repair.
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When all drains are draining slowly, the first step is to check the main drain and sewer lines.
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What is the best way to demolish a little brick wall? Since this is a small wall, I do not wish to buy any expensive tools. seems they used some mortar. I failed when trying to use nothing but a small (nail) hammer. Any tricks? alt text http://is7.itookthisonmyphone.com/m/00140/fe5e15de-72ab-4553-9f81-ba9663b8af62/f8876fc8-345e-416b-b982-85284574a505_568x426r0.jpg <Q> I've had luck using a sledge hammer in similar circumstances. <S> You'd be surprised how many problems in life have "use a sledge hammer" as the correct answer. <S> ________| <S> ||________| <S> | <S> | <S> | <S> | <S> | <S> | <S> | <S> | |__| <A> I had the same problem with a much bigger wall <S> and I was using a small sledge hammer. <S> No matter how hard I swung the hammer the wall wasn't moving. <S> So I got a bigger sledge hammer . <S> . . <S> one that has a 4 foot handle and a 12 pound head. <S> It was about $20 at Harbor Freight (cheap tools <S> but they work for weekend jobs). <S> I took one swing at the top (it was actually a concrete counter top on top of a big wall) and it broke into 5 big pieces that I could then break down. <S> It was amazing. <S> Crazy what a difference a bigger hammer will make. <A> See if you can get hold of a big heavy hammer. <S> You will most likely need a masonry chisel too, not least as if the mortar is hard it will be quite tricky to remove from underneath the bottom course of bricks. <S> This is the kind of "occasional" job where it's handy to know someone (friend? <S> family) who you can lend you the tools for the weekend. <S> Or, hire them. <A> <A> I've been doing a similar job. <S> I started with a 7lb sledge hammer, which either didn't work (for the bricks that are backed into a solid earth bank) or, in the case of freestanding brick wall sections, worked so well that it would send dangerous shrapnel flying at a glass window! <S> So I bought the cheapest SDS drill <S> I could find (£40 - thank you Wickes) and a 40mm-wide chisel bit, and went at it that way, raking the mortar out, then holding the bit to vibrate the bricks out. <S> It's working pretty well, but it's hard work and slow. <A> A lump hammer should do the job. <S> If that doesn't knock the bricks off you might need to use a masonry chisel as well. <S> You want to choose a wide bladed one and attack the mortar. <A> If for some crazy reason a simple sledge or hammer/chisel doesn't take that down you can rent a small electric jackhammer at Home Depot, et al which would make quick work of that planter box. <A> I'm using a steel spud bar. <S> It is about 5' long and weighs 25 to 30 pounds. <S> Not only can I use it like a battering ram, but it has a wedge tip that I can use to pry.
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A masonry chisel and drilling hammer should probably do the trick.
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How do I clean my jetted whirlpool tub? The master bath of our new house has a jetted whirlpool tub. We haven't used it yet, since the previous owners were, um, lacking hygiene. Is there a good way to clean it out without taking the whole thing apart? I've heard that some people use dish detergent, but then I've heard elsewhere that this can cause residue buildup inside the jets and tubing. Is there a good cleaning product made specifically for jetted tubs out there that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Does anyone have experience they can share? <Q> Were the previous owners kind enough to leave the instruction manual for the tub? <S> If not, you may be able to look up the model online, and get a copy. <S> The last jetted tub I had experience with, had removable jets, which could be placed in the dishwasher (as per the instruction manual). <S> In order to clean out the tubing, we would fill the tub, and add 1-1.5 cups of bleach, then run the jets for a good 20-30 minutes, drain the tub, refill with clean water, and run for another 5-10 minutes. <S> It was amazing how much "ick" came out, and with the bleach you don't have to worry about buildup. <S> If the previous homeowners were as you say, lacking hygiene, you may want to repeat this process a few times. <A> MarkD mentioned bleach and removing the jets. <S> If there are hard water stains you could also try vinegar , just not at the same time. <A> It sounds expensive - $20 for 2 oz, but you only have to use a tiny pinch (<1/4 tsp) for each cleaning, unlike the amount the directions call for. <S> It worked amazingly well. <S> We watched in horrid fascination as tons of gunk <S> came pouring out of the tubes. <S> After repeating the process two more times, nothing new came out of the jets. <S> We then cleaned the tub surface with regular bathroom cleaner. <A> This YouTube video compared a jetted tub cleaner, Oh Yuk to bleach and dishwasher detergent. <S> As you can see in this video, <S> Oh Yuk is considerably more effective than bleach and dish washing detergent. <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASNCN0Y_hpI
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We actually ended up using Ahh-Some Jetted Bath cleaner .
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Can I use a 50 Hz device in a 60 Hz power frequency? My mother in law just returned from Europe and brought me an espresso machine. It's rated 220v - 50 Hz (as written in the label), but the power system here is 220v - 60 Hz. Funny thing is that in the manufacturer website it says the model is actually 220v - 50/60 Hz. Question is: can I use it here? By searching the internet I found some people saying it wouldn't work, others saying it would work but damage the machine eventually, and even others saying that the frequency difference only affects clocks/timers. So I'm kinda confused. Should I try to use it? <Q> The 60 Hz represents the frequency at which the voltage in the wire oscillates. <S> Heating elements don't care about this, and neither do most electronic components as they turn this alternating current (AC) into constant (DC) <S> direct current anyway. <S> If this is an all-singing, all-dancing, computer controlled extra-fancy espresso machine then I'd steer clear, though, as there's a remote chance you've one of the few devices where the cycles-per-second makes a difference. <S> If it just uses power to heat an element you should be fine. <S> Disclaimer: operating the device outside of the region it's designed for will certainly void the warranty, and coffee in excess isn't good for you anyway. <A> I would not trust the manufacturer's website: there is a chance that the batch of coffee makers that yours came from was made with a different power supply or some other difference. <S> Instead, look at the little sign that has model numbers, serial number, voltage, etc. <S> If it says 220 V 50/60 Hz, then it's probably safe to use it in the US. <S> If it says 220 V 50 Hz, it's more uncertain. <S> Many components should work fine, but perhaps some may overheat, not work, or run at the wrong speed. <S> If the alternative is to throw the machine in the garbage, I would try it (with a transformer in order to convert 110 V to 220 V) but unplug it when not in use. <S> (P.S. <S> Interesting tidbit: much of southern California used 50 Hz until 1948 .) <A> Certain AC motors (synchronous motors) will turn at a rate proportional to the input frequency. <S> Fancy espresso machines contain pumps, which may or may not be synchronous. <S> So, it's possible that the different power line frequency will affect the machine's output. <S> If it has a pump driven by a synchronous motor, it'd be running slightly out of spec (16.7% different), which would produce a different water pressure than it expected. <S> I believe that it shouldn't cause much of a difference in operation, but one would need to analyze the complete system to be sure. <S> Try it, and see what happens.
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There are unlikely to be any safety concerns with using the wrong power line frequency in this case.
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Can you paint a ceiling that has acoustical texture?? My guess is that a paint sprayer might be easiest, but are the other ways that won't remove the texture? <Q> <A> Yes, you have to use a segmented foam roller . <S> I didn't have to thin the paint <S> and I don't think that is necessary. <S> I have done it and you need to lay out large amounts of drop cloth to prevent popcorn from falling down. <S> Paint in one direction only otherwise the popcorn will peel. <A> Like you said, a paint sprayer would be easiest, but you can do it with a roller as well: Use a foam roller. <S> Thin the paint out a bit, say 80/20 paint/water or so. <S> Roll in one direction only - if you roll back and forth you'll likely knock off the popcorn. <S> If one "roll" doesn't cover it, just put on another coat after the first one dries. <S> Be gentle with the roller! <A> You can but, ... it's a one way street. <S> Once you paint it, you'll never be able to scrape it off. <S> So think carefully before you paint it.
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You can use a really thick-napped (1" nap) roller, but make sure to go very slow, or you will fling paint everywhere.
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Where can I find garage building plans? If I wanted to build a detached garage/workshop, where can I find complete, detailed plans? I'd like to be able to estimate building cost from a materials list. I'm not certain what style I'd want, so I'm open to suggestions. For sake of discussion, let's assume the main house structure is colonial or similar. <Q> In order of increasing cost: This website has a few good plans for simple garages available at no cost. <S> TodaysPlans looks like it has some good plans for free, but you have to get them through email. <S> Mybackyardplans has a few for free, but they look to be low quality. <S> This website has them starting around $70. <S> JustGaragePlans has a wide range to pick from, but they're going to run $100+ per plan. <A> Here are a few free ones I found through a Google search. <S> Build a Single Garage Shell . <S> Plan for a 16' X 22' Garage . <S> 20' X 24' Garage . <S> You may also be able to find blueprints of garages built in your city at the city clerks office, at least for garages built with permits <S> (I think these are public record <S> but I'm not sure). <A> If you are still looking for garage plans, I could give you a few tips from my own experience. <S> Therefore, you should make sure the plans come with detailed instructions and they comply with the local building codes. <S> Make sure the garage plans talks about the foundation of the construction, as this will make a difference on the long run. <S> Personally, I have used these plans, but I'm pretty sure there are more options to choose from. <S> Otherwise, you could use instructions and just adjust the size and the design of the garage to your needs.
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There seems to be a lot of sites that will supply you with plans for a fee. You could also try using software like Google Sketchup or other drawing software to create your own plans, if you go this route make sure to get your plans approved by the appropriate government offices.
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There is water in my basement and the outdoor sump pump failed. What am I doing wrong? My house has water problems with the basement. Here's what the entrance to my basement looks like . When I get a really heavy rain storm, water manages to rise up and start seeping in under the door. Given an hour I have a real mess on my hands (like today) I have a sump pump hooked up underneath the black cover in the picture. It's a simple automatic pump I bought at the home depot. It sits inside a 5 gallon bucket with holes drilled in it and gravel in the bottom. This bucket sits in a pit filled with gravel. Here's what it looks like when you lift the cover The pump has a garden hose hooked up to it. The hose then runs through some pvc pipes and into the back yard. The power cord runs into the house. Currently it's attached to a power cord but I plan on adding a power outlet next to the door that it will plug into. Here's a picture. . So that's my setup, which works well enough for regular amounts of rain. But here are the two situations my setup fails: Flash flood warning level rains. Power outage. So here are my questions: What am I doing wrong? What should I do to make things right? <Q> For the case of the power outages, there's basically two options -- UPS or other battery backup for the sump pump. <S> (which only helps for as long as the batteries hold out) <S> A water powered sump pump <S> The water powered sump could also help in the case of the flash floods, as you'll have both the regular pump and the backup pump so long as the power's still on (and you route them separately, so they're not sharing an outflow route.) <A> From the looks of it, water could run right around your grate to the door. <S> If the walkway is sloped toward the grate on both sides, that would probably help when the rain is light, but when it is heavy it will run right around it. <S> I would install a grate that runs across the whole width of the walkway. <S> Under the grate, I would have a trench about a foot deep with about 6" of gravel. <S> In the middle of the trench, I would dig a hole another 24" or so deep and put your bucket with the sump pump in there. <S> It would also help to either move the trench closer to the door or grade the walkway so that the couple feet from the drain to the door slopes toward the drain. <S> If you move it, it should at least be inside the "drip line" from the eves/overhang on the house. <S> Another option, if possible (hard to tell from the picture) would be to cover the walkway. <A> It may not allow enough flow of water to leave the basin fast enough. <S> We have 1.5" pvc leaving the sump pump and that pipe discharges into the yard. <S> Can you use the PVC that you said you have going into the yard instead of having the hose in the PVC? <A> Obviously, the pump can't keep up with the amount of water pouring in. <S> As mohlsen said, the outlet hose is way too small. <S> I've never seen one < 1.5" diameter. <S> It needs to be a lot bigger than it is. <S> If that doesn't solve the problem completely, you probably need to upgrade to a larger sump pump. <S> If you have frequent power outages when it rains, you need a sump pump with a battery backup. <S> Not a UPS- those aren't designed to handle motor loads. <S> You want a combo sump pump that has a secondary pump with a battery/charger combo. <S> The only issue is where to locate the battery, since your pump is outdoors. <S> Usually the battery box & electronics mount on the wall above the pump when it's installed in the basement. <S> A 5 gallon pail may not cut it for fitting both pumps in there- <S> you may have to upgrade to a proper sump pit (which you should do anyway). <S> Also, make sure your discharge is far enough away that the water can't run back down there.
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As for the flash flood issues -- you might be able to either regrade the area to change the catchment area that drains towards the door, and possibly add a lean-to roof to reduce the amount of rain into the area, or increase the size of the pump to deal with the increased flow. In addition to the other comments, the garden hose may also be causing the problem.
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What should I do about a gap between hardwood and drywall? First-time home-owner - house less than 1 year old. We had our home built last December, and have been discovering all sorts of problems with it. The latest was a trail of ants within our kitchen ascending from behind the stove. When we looked beneath the stove to see what the problem was, we found a small hole allowing sun-light in from outside. Our builder came and sprayed foam, but the ants have persisted for one more day. I finally sprayed some insect killer behind the stove, and that greatly reduced the number of ants. Today I pulled the stove out to see what it looked like back there and found the following (see image). I'm noticing a large space between the hardwood flooring and the drywall - is this normal? Should I fill it with spray foam? If so, is spray foam enough to prevent further insects from finding their way in (assuming the initial round of spray foam wasn't sufficient), or should I deal with ants a different way? If I should spray, what would be an appropriate product to use? <Q> Killing the ants is one thing, and the comments from others are good. <S> However, you need to fix the root cause of the problem, which is hole that you can see daylight from. <S> Spray foam will only deter them for a while. <S> I would take a good look outside and see how much of a gap existed before the foamed it. <A> The gap is not unusual. <S> I've had ants come in through an electrical outlet before. <S> Any tiny opening is sufficient for their single-file "column" to come marching through. <S> Hurrah! <S> Hurrah! <S> The best thing to do is to apply a bait/poison like Amdro along the base of the exterior wall and use a few ant bait stations made for interior use in a few places in the kitchen. <S> If the ones that you can get at the grocery or home improvement store don't do the trick then you can get better ones from your local pest control store that caters to the DIY market. <S> Always follow label instructions. <A> Then you will have to prevent them from getting back into the house and creating a new nest. <S> If the ants are entering the house from the ground, you could spread Borax around the house. <S> The ants will crawl through the borax on the way in and die. <S> If the ants are coming in from above (power line, clothes line, tree branch) <S> you will have to deal with that accordingly. <S> Clothes lines and tree branches are easy, just remove them. <S> A power line can be more tricky, but most likely the ants are getting on the line from a nearby tree. <S> If that's the case you should call the power company and ask them to remove the tree, unless the tree is on your property in which case you can trim the branches around the line so the ants no longer have access. <S> The first step is to find where the ants are coming from, the next step is to prevent them from coming back. <S> As for the dry wall not coming down to the floor, that is normally covered up by base boards. <S> I'm assuming the builders figured the stove would cover it <S> so there was no sense ' wasting money ' installing a baseboard there. <A> This is why I would never hire someone who only does new construction. <S> They don't take pride in their work, they only do enough so that the new homeowner doesn't complain. <S> To really fix this problem permanently, you are really going to have to "dig" into the wall. <S> Which is why the builder just put in some spray foam. <S> Otherwise they would have had to spend more money, without getting another dime from you.
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If the ants have a nest in the house, you will have to find the nest and destroy it. You could put spray foam there, but it will only have a negligible affect. You may have to remove the siding to see everything, but I suspect the exterior wall may need to be patched. You should NEVER be able to see daylight through a wall from the inside of a home. The products available to a homeowner will be limited and regulated, but they are often effective. It might be worthwhile to have someone, other than the builder, come over and look at it with you, even if you have to hire them yourself.
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How do I use three-prong appliances when my outlets are mostly two-prong? I am living in a house where most electrical outlets are two prong. There are a smattering of three prong, in particular where an addition was put on. Am I hosed when it comes to where I can plug in electrical appliances that have three prong plugs? <Q> I'm assuming you're in the US. <S> Get a tester and see if the box is grounded. <S> A two lead neon type tester works well for this. <S> Insert one lead into one side of the two-prong outlet and touch the other lead to the screw that holds the plate on. <S> Try the other side, too. <S> You may have to scratch off some paint if the screw isn't bare metal. <S> If it lights up that's good news. <S> You can use a multi-meter set to read AC voltage or another type of tester instead of the neon one. <S> or you can buy replacement outlets that are designed for retrofitting in this application. <S> Your other option is to have an electrician come in and upgrade your wiring to full grounding. <A> Depends. <S> It may be that the additional wire was just never terminated. <S> You can see if you have all three pairs by shutting off the breaker, taking off the outlet cover and examining the wires going to your outlets. <S> It may just be snipped off and you can put in the third leg rather easily. <A> You are most likely hosed. <S> It's highly unlikely you'd find a usable ground wire if your receptacles are not grounded. <S> Don't use the cheater adapters if the box isn't grounded- <S> they're not safe. <S> If an appliance has a ground prong, it's not double-insulated, meaning there are places on it you could touch and possibly be electrocuted if your body is a better path to ground than whatever else it's touching. <S> It needs to be on a grounded circuit. <S> We skipped over several apartments and houses for lack of grounded outlets. <A> In certain areas it is required to have 3 prong grounded outlets to get a CO (certificate of occupancy). <S> Meaning you technically can not move into your new or new to you house until this problem is fixed. <S> While flipping houses i came across this a lot and in each case the CO inspector said i could install a GFI outlet in replace of an ungrounded outlet and pass. <S> GFI's can get expensive <S> so you can install one GFI on the first outlet of a series of outlets and it will protect every outlet connected after it. <S> Meaning you can install regular 3 prong outlets. <S> The gfi should come with stickers saying gfi protected. <S> Put these on the regular outlets you install. <S> I'm sure there will be people who will give a 2 page technical explanation on why this doesn't protect you but don't listen. <S> It works and is code officer approved.
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If you have grounded boxes, you can either buy two-prong to three prong adapters that have a lug that you put the plate's screw through
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Miter saw advice and recommendations I'm buying a power miter saw sometime this week; and early birthday present to myself. What should I consider and what brands do you all recommend? I'm not a contractor, web guy by trade, and do mostly weekend projects. <Q> There are a few different things to look at: Compound vs. Non-Compound - <S> This refers to the kind of cuts you can make with it. <S> A compound saw can both swivel and tilt. <S> A non compound saw usually just does one or the other. <S> Almost all miter saws are compound, and that is probably what you want. <S> Sliding vs. <S> Non-Sliding - A sliding saw will let you cut bigger boards (2x10, 2x12, etc) but will be more expensive and quite a bit bulkier. <S> I have a sliding saw, but honestly find that I hardly ever use the sliding feature. <S> How often you use it will depend on how often you work with larger boards (2x8, 2x10, 2x12) 10" vs. 12". <S> A 10" saw is good enough for most work and less expensive, but can only cut up to about a 2x6 in a single cut (unless it's a sliding saw). <S> A 12" saw will cut 2x8 boards in a single cut. <S> You can also cut 4x material easily on a 12" saw, while a 10" saw won't quite make it all the way through. <S> If you plan to use it a lot for decking or outdoor work with larger boards or 4x material, get a 12" saw, maybe sliding if it's in your budget. <S> As for quality items, here are a few things to look at: <S> Does the miter gauge look accurate? <S> Is it easy to read? <S> If you adjust the saw, can you easily set it to within one degree of accuracy? <S> Once you adjust the angle and set it, how tightly does it lock in? <S> If it feels "sloppy" you'll have a hard time getting nice cuts. <A> I'd add that going to a 12" is a more practical upgrade than going to a sliding saw. <S> Some sliders can have some side-to-side slop not found in non-sliders. <S> Also keep in mind that for the price of the nicer miter saws, you could get a perfectly serviceable miter saw and a table saw for working with wider materials. <S> Another distinction not yet mentioned is single-bevel vs double-bevel. <S> The double-bevels are more expensive because the motor has to be moved back away from the blade axis. <S> For certain types of work such as doing crown molding <S> it's a handy feature. <S> I went with a single-bevel and rarely miss it. <S> For cutting guides, I've found the Dewalt LED work light far superior to their laser module. <S> The work light is positioned directly above the blade, casting a shadow of the blade on the workpiece that shows where both sides of the blade will hit, without any adjustment. <S> As a bonus it provides some general illumination of the saw table. <A> The only thing I'd add to Eric's answer is to make sure you look at the most expensive model you can afford even it if has features you might not need. <S> It's likely to be better quality and more durable that cheaper models (though unfortunately that's not guaranteed).
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Brand wise, DeWalt makes some really nice ones, as does Hitachi. My suggestion - if you plan on using it mostly for trim or framing work, buy a 10" compound non-sliding saw.
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How do I run ethernet, speaker wire, and coax through a wall into a crawlspace? I would like to run three low-voltage cables from my entertainment center through an old plaster wall, down (1-3 feet) through the sill plate, and into the crawlspace. The cables are Ethernet, coaxial-something (for a roof mounted UHF/VHF TV antenna which we haven't installed yet) and speaker wire. Will this gang box will be too crowded? Is there an easy way to give me more space inside the gang box, or to deal with the thick coaxial cable? I might want to run additional wires into this box later, such as phone cable for our DSL connection, or maybe an HDMI connection to another room (but this is a fantasy). Since I have existing wires in the box, will routing new cables through this box and through be a problem? I have a raised crawlspace (4 feet high or more). I need to get the cables from behind the wall into the crawlspace. It looks like many people drill a hole through the sill plate and then route the cables through the hole. Is this recommended, or does it cause any structural issues? I would be drilling the hole from the crawlspace up into the wall. From the room above, I would then need to cut a hole through the plaster. Is there a way to make these two holes line up? I'm looking at the following products to make my life easier. Use some Leviton Quickport wall plates and snap in connectors. Use an low-voltage old-work gang box . I'm a little concerned about moisture coming in from the crawl space. Is this a problem? <Q> You've got a lot of different questions, so I'll try to answer the ones I can: <S> Coax sucks because of the necessary bend. <S> (if you have a second person, have them push the cables up from below (or a straightened coat hanger or other wire to act as a needle, if the bundle of cables is too floppy), and then snag it from the hole with a wire bent into a hook) ... which you can't do as easily if you mount a box with little punchouts. <S> Also, you then don't have to worry about crowding the box, etc. <S> It's easier to run lots of cables at once. <S> What what you're planning already, I'd likely run an extra cat5e/cat6 cable, and then get an HDMI-over-twisted-pair (aka HDMI-over-cat5) extender if you wanted to go that route, or re-terminate it for RJ11 <S> if you wanted to change it over to phone. <S> the holes afterwards (at least, it's required in my area, might not be in yours). <S> You only need to line up well enough to get it in the same bay, so you have a ~14.5" target. <S> I cut the hole for the box first, then check to verify the location of the studs (I don't use hardware that requires me to attach to a stud, so I just have to make sure to miss it when cutting my hole), then measure off of some reference point that I'll be able to find down below. <S> (electrical runs, walls, etc.) <S> If nothing else, you can use plumbing or electrical for identifying where the walls are from below. <S> To avoid humidity issues, use spray foam to seal around the cables. <S> (see #3). <A> In the past, I have done this: Write a number on each box of cable. <S> Put the same number of stripes on the end of each corresponding cable. <S> Pick a location for the outlet. <S> Make sure it's not over a stud. <S> Cut a hole for a mounting bracket. <S> Use the bracket as a guide, and a level to make it look nice. <S> Chuck an insulation hanger wire in a drill, like a drill bit. <S> Drill a tiny hole in the floor, right up against the baseboard (or behind the baseboard). <S> Unchuck the wire, leave the hanger in the floor for now. <S> Have an assistant pluck the hanger from above, while I crawl underneath with a drill, fish tape, electrical tape, staple gun, and flashlight. <S> I follow the sound of the plucked wire hanger. <S> Drill a hole through the sill plate, using the hanger as a reference, e.g. "2 inches towards the front door". <S> Push fish tape up from below. <S> I pull the cables down with the fish, and lead them back to the home run point. <S> Assistant helps the cables move freely from the other end. <S> Avoid having too much slack when you're done. <S> Working from the home run point back, wrap the cables in electrical tape every 1-2 feet. <S> Have the assistant pull up the excess slack. <S> Cut with about a foot extra beyond the stripes, so you can still see them when you strip the housing later. <A> What Joe said , and... <S> If your "plaster" walls are lath-and-plaster, you'll probably find it easier to mount the box horizontally because you'll have to cut through fewer lath to make the opening (you might get away with just cutting one). <S> A previous owner of my house did this for some receptacles; IMO they look odd, but if your box will be behind an entertainment center, it doesn't make any difference.
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I don't know of any other way to get cables/pipes through the sill other than drilling, and it's allowed for plumbing, electrical, etc, so long as you then spray foam You're better off going with a backless box like the one you linked to, because it makes running cables so much easier. Leaving at least 2 feet of extra cable hanging out of the wall, mark each cable with the correct number of stripes. Have assistant grab the fish tape & attach the cables. Staple one cable (COAX if you have one in the bundle, because it's tougher) to the joists. It may even be required by code in your area.
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What are some recommended cordless trimmers/weed-eaters? I'm looking to pick up a cordless trimmer/weed-eater. I have a bit of an anti-noise bias, so I'm hoping to find something that's electric cordless, not a gas-powered one. Are there any trimmers of that sort that have decent power and battery life? Or is the very nature of the tool such that a cordless electric version won't be satisfactory? For what it's worth, I have a fairly small yard ~ 1/3 acre. Edit Gave the Black and Decker a whirl, and it was perfect - one battery on full charge, and I didn't even run it down doing the whole yard. <Q> It comes with two batteries, so if the first one goes dead, you can pop in the second one and keep going. <S> (Always keep the spare one in the charger!) <S> I am happy with its performance. <S> My lot is 0.35 acres. <S> I use it to trim along my driveway, sidewalk, swing set, and a few flower beds. <S> I don't have a fence around my lot, or anything that requires extended use. <S> My usual trimming routine takes ~30 <S> minutes, not counting cleanup. <S> I can usually finish the trimming in a single battery charge. <S> If I have neglected the yard for a while, it might take 1.5 battery charges to do everything. <S> It has an auto-string feed, which hasn't failed me yet. <S> You can rotate the trimmer 90 degrees to do edging work. <S> I do this along the edge of my sidewalk and driveway. <S> Makes a really "sharp" line, which looks nice. <S> It is pretty convenient to use. <S> No cords to drag around the yard, no engine to service. <S> However the battery does have its limits. <S> It starts out with decent power, but as the battery starts to wear down in the last few minutes, the motor RPMs will decrease. <S> It will still trim, just not as well. <S> If I had a larger lot, or a fence, or more things to trim around (garden, lots of landscaping features, etc), I would probably need something more powerful. <S> If your trimming routine is similar to mine, it should be OK for you. <S> My string trimmer is part of a larger Black and Decker 18V Yard System . <S> I also own the hedge trimmer and leaf blower from the set. <S> Since the batteries are interchangeable, I have plenty of spares and chargers. <S> Do you need other yard power tools? <S> If so, consider getting a set with interchangeable batteries. <S> When I got my yard tools, the Lithium Battery stuff was still pretty new, and no one was offering an interchangeable set. <S> Now there are at least a few on the market, so you may want to consider them over what I have. <S> Have never used one though, so I can't make a specific recommendation. <A> I picked up a basic Craftsman model at Sears a few months ago and have been very happy with it. <S> The battery still holds enough charge to do the whole yard twice. <S> Much easier to throw a battery on a charger for a couple hours than to have to mess around with a liquid fuel source. <S> It's also quite light. <S> Not as powerful as a gas model of course, but it gets the job done just fine! <A> I've never used a cordless trimmer, but from the reviews that I read online, I decided against the cordless option. <S> Problems I've read about include a short battery life and not enough power. <S> If you've got a long fence line like I do, the battery life is a big drawback. <S> (Just for reference, I've got ~1/2 acre, mostly fenced.) <S> And if you tend to let your grass get a little long between mowings, then the power issue is a big drawback. <S> On the other hand, most consumer-use gas trimmers are in the $200+ range (some in the $100's) <S> and I've seen corded or cordless electric trimmers for $40. <S> So I guess it boils down to cost vs. performance. <S> I recently purchased an Echo <S> SRM-225 <S> after quite a bit of research, so I might be a little bit biased, but I'm not in the least bit disappointed by it. <S> I did spring for a nicer gas powered trimmer, so you might not see as much of a difference between a cheap gas powered one and an electric one. <A> I've found that electric (and especially coordless) trimmers arn't powerful enough to do the kind of edging I want (and especially since I don't cut the grass often enough). <S> I don't like the noise (or the extra pollution from the two cycle engine that burns the oil and gas) <S> but it was the only option . . <S> . <S> until now! <S> My next trimmer will be propane powered ! <S> I saw a Craftsman version <S> but I really like the ones <S> y <S> Lehr <S> (although I don't like how they use the "eco" branding . . <S> . looks too much like Echo, the maker of my current trimmer).
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I own this cordless string trimmer: Black and Decker NST2018 ($100)
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Should my toilet flange sit on top of the backer board or the tile of the floor? The bathroom model saga continues. The old toilet flange was rusting, and the subfloor was rotting, so I pulled up the subfloor around the toilet, and replaced the drain pipe with ABS, and an elbow. The plan is to tile this bathroom. So my question is- should the toilet flange sit on top of the backer board so that the top of the flange is close to flush with the top of the tile? Or should the flange sit on top of the tile (thus raising the top of the flange 3/8" or so over the top of the tile)? I've seen it recommended both ways, but have had some trouble finding the pros/cons of each. <Q> Meaning the bottom edge of the flange needs to be on the same plane as the toilet. <S> So if your toilet sits on the tile, the flange needs to be on top of the tile too. <S> The spacing of the toilet exit "horn" and sealing surface is designed for this height. <S> almost all plumbers agree, here are some sources: http://www.terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?51976-Toilet-flange-height <S> if you have it lower than the finished floor you risk leaking toilet water (the water is the best part) into the floor or worse, in-between the tile, sub-floor, backer board. <S> This is because the wax ring was designed only to take up the air gap, not to provide a "tunnel" or extension of the pipe/flange/toilet horn. <A> You want the flange to be secured to the floor as tightly as possible. <A> When I redid my bathroom (added backer board and tile to replace linoleum) I had to raise the flange too. <S> All I did was cut a piece of plywood to fit around the flange and raise it about the same as the backer board. <S> I agree with Niall C.'s answer not to put it over the tile since it could easily crack <S> but I also think the backer board would break easily too considering the screws for the flange would be very close to the edge of the backer board. <S> But in my case, I didn't realize that I needed to raise the flange until after the tile was in and a piece of plywood worked really well in that situation. :) <A> In the process of redoing my vinyl floor with backer board and tile. <S> The flange is set on the finished vinyl floor as shown in the upper photograph. <S> The result is a toilet that rocks,leaks at the wax gasket and has ruined the vinyl floor. <S> It's not a cheap Home Depot toilet (can't remember the brand, but it was about $200 years ago...). <S> Even after removing and replacing the wax gasket, then doubling it up with the plastic collared type and wedging the toilet front and back at 4 points, it still rocked and leaked. <S> The same is true of the same model toilet in another bathroom. <S> I will be mounting the flange flush with the new tile floor and using a rubber (foam) style gasket this time. <A> This installation video from Oatey , who is a big manufacturer of toilet flanges, shows it above the finished floor. <S> The narration also mentions that the screws should pass through the finished floor into the subfloor. <S> That video was from their website: <S> https://www.oatey.com/2370581/Product/Oatey-Level-Fit-Closet-Flange-Plastic-Ring <S> Generally I assume that manufacturer's instructions for this type of product are pretty well informed, at least to understand what they consider to be best practice.
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The toilet flange needs to be on top of the finished floor. If it's on top of the tile, I think you run the risk of cracking the tile when you're tightening the nuts on the flange, so I say attach it to the backer-board.
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How much should it cost to add a circuit breaker? In this question , I asked about problems between my circuit breaker for a circuit shared by my microwave and sump pump. The conclusion was that another circuit should be added to support the microwave on its own. I have open spots for breakers in the box. Assuming I have an electrician do this job, how much should I expect it to cost? If location is a variable, I'm in central Maryland. Note that the new circuit could be added to support only the sump-pump in an unfinished basement. So my thinking is that it should be one of the easiest additions possible. <Q> but of course there would be some sort of minimum charge to come out and also the cost of the breaker, so probably around $100. <S> BUT that assumes the actual line for the sump pump/microwave (the one you want to put on the new circuit) is all by itself. <S> I have seen some interesting wiring in old houses where one thing is wired to the next which is wired to the next and eventually all of it goes back to the same breaker. <S> The electrician might need some time to figure out how the microwave and/or sump pump are currently wired before being able to propose a solution. <S> If this is the case then I would expect a much higher bill (since this is no longer a trivial "install a new breaker" job). <A> The only way to get an accurate figure for your area is to call a bunch of electricians near you, and they won't be able to give you a really accurate number without seeing it. <S> They should be able to give you a range, though. <S> The sump pump should be on its own 20A circuit without a GFCI . <S> (GFCI may now be required by NEC 2008 edition. <S> Will update when I know for sure.) <S> The lights and outlets can stay on the same circuit if the outlets have GFCI protection. <S> They're probably going to want to move the microwave to a different circuit while they're at it- <S> unrelated locations really shouldn't share a common circuit. <A> Parts are cheap $5 for the breaker ($9 if Square D QO, $50-ish if an obsolete panel like Pushmastic, FPE, Zinsco etc.) <S> $15-ish for the electrical wire. <S> ? <S> ?? <S> ? for the labor. <S> The labor will vary wildly by the practical difficulty of routing the cable, and will depend on things like the total distance, level of finished-ness in the route areas (finished vs unfinished basement), whether the last guy left you some conduit to use, stuff like that. <S> That variability is precisely why costing questions are a bad fit for this stack. <S> Off-load <S> the other loads <S> Depending on your physical access, it may be better to leave the microwave on this circuit, and move everything else to an alternate circuit. <S> Last I looked, basement outlets and sump pumps tend to be in basements, and basements tend to be unimproved (or under-improved) and easier to install wiring (certainly no harder). <S> Leave the basement lighting on the microwave circuit; these days lighting is a very small load, and it's nice to have the basement lights <S> Not go dark when you trip the breaker from running tools.
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So the better plan may be to move the sump pump and/or basement receptacles onto separate circuits. It is fairly simple to add an additional breaker to a box If they are making any modifications to a circuit that has anything not allowed by the current electrical code (which it does), they will have to make it all correct.
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How do I fix a ceiling fan that won't turn off? I have a ceiling light/fan fixture in one of my rooms connected to a single electrical switch. There are two pullchains on the fixture, one that controls the light, the other controlling the fan. I'd expect the fan chain to switch it among fast, slow, and off. However, whenever the switch is on, the fan motor is running, and the chain just switches between fast and slow. Is there something wrong with this fixture? Is it just wired wrong, and should have two separate switches? <Q> Depends on how it is wired. <S> The single switch will control the fan and light simultaneously. <S> If you want the light off, then you pull the chain for the light. <S> The nice part about having the light on a different switch is you can simply go into a room without having to turn on the fan every time and have a nice bright fixture in the room. <S> The downside is that you have to hit the switch every time since the pull chain kind of loses its purpose and is now redundant. <S> Now, whether you have three speeds or not is up to the manufacturer of the fan. <S> Most fans made recently have three speeds. <S> Doubt it is broken though. <A> Your fan switch is shot. <S> You can get replacement switches at big box stores. <S> It is probably not a light switch or else the fan would simply turn on/off rather than what you see - slow/fast with no off. <S> Five bucks and a half hour <S> and you will be fine. <A> <A> Is usually located inside the bottom junction box, accessible by removing the light fixture assembly. <S> Pay attention to the position of the light fixture relative to the junction box, because when you are ready to put everything back together, you have to align a notch usually cut on the light assembly <S> lid to accomodate other electronic pieces in the junction box. <S> Order your new switch by the model number of the fan; Not all pull=chain switches will work with your fan. <S> Nothing wrong with having just 1 wall switch for both light and fan motor; -Inconvenient, <S> but not wrong-
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It sounds like someone replaced the pull-chain switch for the fan with one made for a light. Replace the pull-chain step switch. We have to know the make/model to find out for sure.
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Should I hire an architect to design my house? I am planning to build a house for my family. It's relatively simple and modest by modern American standards. I plan to do much of the work myself, and want to keep costs down. I have been working on some designs, but I wonder what a professional would bring to the table. Some guesses: Easier time at the permit office, as architect knows the codes, draws pretty pictures, and the permit officer knows what to expect. Architect will offer clever solutions to difficult problems. Architect will be able to "see" the completed house, from drawings, better than I can, and knows what will work well. Architect will cost an arm and a leg. Architect will want a house to be fancy or make a statement about society. <Q> Yes. <S> And in many districts, it is a requirement to have an architect design while an engineer examines and seals the plans. <A> I don't agree with: Architect will want a house to be fancy or make a statement about society Ask around for recommendations. <S> A good architect is like a graphic designer -- they're paid to make you happy by turning your vision into a reality. <S> Yes, there are quite a few out there who deal in the ultra-fancy, but there's quite a few out there who like nice, simple lines and know how to get good value / convenience / <S> etc out of a space. <S> (is that making a statement about society? <S> well, maybe, I guess). <S> Any time someone says that they put something into their house because the architect wanted it, that's a sign not to go with the architect -- the architect can build their own house if they want stuff in there <S> , this is your house, and you should only put in things you actually want. <S> (although, I do recommend a roof ... <S> they come in handy. <S> And some doors & windows) <S> Some architects specialize in certain types of houses, and they're not all equally great in all fields, so you might need to ask around. <S> You should be able to find one that matches what sort of things you're looking for (mansions vs. homey vs. modern vs. efficient, etc). <S> Yes, they are going to cost you money, but they're also going to save time in some aspects, and if they can keep you from building a bad design by identifying a problem before it's built, they're invaluable. <S> (disclaimer -- I wanted to be an architect, and went to a school planning on transfering out after my core classes were done, but never did ... <S> I did take some architectural history classes and stuff like that, though) <A> Thats great that you are looking to do a lot yourself. <S> We did the same. <S> So I drew up the initial plans, which totally spelled out what we wanted, overall size, rooms, etc. <S> But my drawings were no where near that what was needed for the permits, for building drawings (any subs that you may use), and for materials when you take them to the lumber yard. <S> I was able to take my plans to an architect, and ask for a official set of building plans. <S> They may make some suggestions for you, but if you are clear that you just want building drawings, they will know what you need. <S> This will typically cost $1,000. <S> Not too much when you think of the ocst of the entire project. <A> Residential Architects aren't making a statement about society. <S> They are making a statement about you, the client. <S> Just my personal opinion, but if I'm putting the time, money and effort into building my own house, I want it to be a house designed for me. <S> An architect will help me design that house. <A> For more detailed info in deciding which is a better fit for you, I'd go to http://OwnerBuilderBook.com . <S> The forums there were invaluable when I owner-built my own home. <A> I helped my friend design his house. <S> He bought several design books with basic plans for houses. <S> We combined a couple of the plans to sketch out a basic floor plan and dimensions for what he wanted. <S> He took that basic plan to the lumber yard. <S> They had an architect they worked with who turned it into official blueprints. <S> I don't know how much it cost, but the lumber yard took the cost of the drawings off his materials bill when he bought the materials to build the house.
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You can use either a designer or an architect, but depending on where you are building and the complexity of the home, you may need an engineer to stamp the plans.
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How do I get started with dovetail joints? I've never made a dovetail joint before, and I'd like to do things right for my next project. I have the router and table and all that - but I don't have a dovetail jig. The prices vary from $40 to well over $400. Do I need to buy a special jig, or is there a way I can just buy the router bit for $10 and make my own template somehow? <Q> Here's a good tutorial on hand-cut dovetails. <S> There are two schools of thought - pins first and tails first. <S> It doesn't really matter, it's more about how you were taught. <S> This one is pins first. <S> How I Make Hand-Cut Dovetails <A> If you are using a router you will need some sort of edge/jig to guide the cut, otherwise you won't get a straight line. <S> In the first instance I'd buy a cheap(ish) one and see how you get on. <S> Then if you want to do more advanced pieces buy a more expensive jig. <S> BTW <S> I learnt to do dovetail joints with a dovetail saw and mallet & chisel. <S> You can use a mitre saw, but a dovetail saw is finer. <A> Without significant care, a homemade jig won't allow the pieces to mesh properly when you're finished. <S> Commercial jigs are accurate down to hundredths or thousandths of an inch, and it's unlikely you'll get the same level of accuracy. <S> That said, as ChrisF mentioned, commercial jigs and routers are a fairly modern invention but dovetail joints are not. <S> So using your own jig you may need to do more manual work to get them to fit. <S> As my father (a professional carpenter for about 40 years) noted, "a 'master carpenter' is just a carpenter with enough experience to know how to hide his mistakes." <A> For a cheap and pretty good option, I would check out the jig Harbor Freight sells . <S> A lot of people say it's really good for the $25-$35 price point. <S> which is pretty quick for one-offs (no setup really required) and doesn't require any special jigs. <S> If you look up handcut dovetails on YouTube <S> you can watch some people do it and decide how easy/hard it looks.
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I personally cut them by hand (with a dovetail saw, $10 at Sears, and chisels)
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How should I prepare damaged plaster for painting? We are redecorating our hall. We have stripped all the wallpaper off and have discovered that the plaster behind is not in great condition. What suggestions do people have for preparing a slightly damaged wall for painting? (See photos below) Our budget is fairly low. I think a professional re-plaster is probably out of the question. Is lining paper a sensible option? Are there any other products or techniques suitable? The house is ~1920s. Update: I've had a quote from a plasterer - £400 to have the hall & stairs fully re-plastered. I know it's hard without seeing the size, but does this sound reasonable for a short hall and stairs? It's also way above my budget though so any other cheaper suggestions or advice would still be welcome. 80% of the wall is passable. The plaster is fairly smooth although there are lots of little bumps. I'm assuming that sanding it down to remove bumps and polyfilla to fill cracks will be sufficient here. Followed by a normal priming process (50/50 paint/water). Higher-res Around 15% of the wall has worse damage. Bits of the top layer (~1mm) of plaster are missing. I don't think polyfilla will work here as I'd end up layering it over large areas. Higher-res Finally, about 5% of the wall has big cracks: Higher-res <Q> Taking things in reverse order: With the large areas firstly remove any remaining loose plaster. <S> Trying to patch without doing this is a waste of time. <S> Then with the large areas you'll need to replaster. <S> You can either take this as an opportunity to learn or pay someone. <S> I won't tell you how to plaster as it's really a skill you have to be shown or practise yourself, though I do have a couple of bits of advice. <S> Don't try to plaster the whole wall in one go. <S> Take it in stages and make sure you dampen the wall you're plastering onto as it helps the plaster stick. <S> With the areas missing the top coat of plaster you will need to reskim. <S> This should be done after fixing the base coat. <S> You might find a plasterer willing to skim over your base coat - discuss it before you start. <S> This will give you a good finish but should cost less than hiring a plasterer to do the whole job. <S> Getting a good skim finish takes a lot of practice. <S> Finally the areas with only minor cracks and bumps should be filled and sanded before proceeding. <S> If you manage to get a good surface then painting is the best option. <S> If not then paper the wall with two layers of lining paper. <S> The first runs horizontal and the second vertical. <S> This will smooth out most of the remaining unevenness in the wall. <S> Before papering wash the walls with a weak glue solution this will stop all the glue from the paper being absorbed into the plaster and the paper lifting off the wall. <S> I should have added that you need to leave the plaster to fully dry out before painting or papering. <S> That might have been one of the reasons why the previous repair has failed. <S> UPDATE <S> The quote you have doesn't seem unreasonable <S> but without knowing the exact area you need replastering or your location <S> it's difficult to say for certain. <S> However, we shouldn't be getting into commenting on exact quotes as they are always going to be too localised (in time and space). <S> Get another quote to compare it against - that's always going to be the best option. <S> Also as I said above see if you can get the plasterer just to do the final skim - it should come out cheaper. <A> Get a plasterer in - you will be astonished at how little it costs and how quickly they'll do the job. <S> A good plasterer (in Gloucestershire, UK; urban prices will be more) shouldn't cost more than c. £150-£250 / day all found; in a day they should manage to replaster a complete 10' x 10' room without problems. <S> Smaller rooms should cost less. <S> Ask around for advice and get lots of quotes. <S> We had a wall 30' x 7' in similar looking condition to yours and estimates ranged from £250 to over £1000! <S> When you get estimates, say you'll be finishing the wall by painting even if you intend to paper. <S> Lining paper can hide slight uneven-ness <S> so if your plasterer isn't so good he'll cut corners. <S> I'd be worried about the plaster in the last photo. <S> What made it come off? <S> (I'm assuming you're in the UK, BTW, as you mention good-ol' polyfilla.) <A> ChrisF gives some great advice about how to fix the plaster, but I might suggest something else.
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Given that about 20% of the wall is damaged to the point that you'll probably need professional help to repair it, I would strongly consider just putting up some new 3/8" drywall over the existing plaster.
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How can I calculate how large an airconditioner my house needs? I know there are a lot of possible factors that go into determining the size of the air-conditioning system a house needs. Is there a standard way of calculating what is needed, or do A/C companies each devise their own method? Is there a guide somewhere to aid a home-owner in figuring it out? <Q> <A> To roughly calculate the required BTU output of an air conditioner you will need to total up the results of six calculations. <S> Square footage of area to be <S> cooled.(Length x Width) <S> x 337 Area of south facing <S> windows.(Height x Width) <S> x 871 Area of north facing <S> windows.(Height x Width) <S> x 166 Heat produced by people(# of people x 400) <S> Heat produced by lights (Total wattage of all lights x 4.25) <S> Total heat produced by appliances (Total wattage of all appliances x 3.15) Add all of these numbers up to determine the BTU output required of the air conditioner ( Source ). <S> You could also use a site like this Air Conditioner Sizing Worksheet to make the calculations. <A> It probably depends on climate as much as it does the square footage of your house but the general rule is one ton for every 400-500 square feet of house. <S> There are a ton of other factors like vaulted ceilings and if you have dual pane windows <S> and if you have 2x6 construction and therefor more insulation in the walls but for the most part none of that is going to factor into the unit. <S> It goes more like this: <S> Contractor: <S> How big is your house? <S> You: about 1900 square feet Contractor <S> : I see the house is older <S> You: <S> Yeah, it was built in the 50s Contractor: <S> 5 ton it is! <S> or Contractor: <S> How big is your house? <S> You: about 1900 square feet Contractor <S> : I see the house is newer <S> You: <S> Yeah, it was built in the 90s <S> Contractor: <S> 5 ton it is! <A> I think you need to look at the Discover Ways for Air Conditioner Sizing in order to get an idea of the size of the AC unit. <S> Two out of three suggested methods include Manual J which is exact science - but not many contractors want to do it for free. <A> There's a ton of variables: <S> square footage <S> insulation amount room flow type of ducts <S> duct insulation <S> duct paths <S> climate site setting number of windows/doors <S> A good HVAC pro will be able to do the proper calculations for you.
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You'll want to check out the ENERGY STAR Air Conditioning Sizing Calculator .
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Can I build a deck this low to the ground? I want to build a deck off the back of my house. The door is near grade level, about 1' above. The grade doesn't have very large slope, so that means that the beam at the far end would be below grade: Note: Forgive the crude pen-drawing i sketched out at work. Didn't really want to bother with plenty of workspace, pencils or rulers. Am i allowed to use beams when they are this close to grade? i was thinking that metal bracket holding up the beam, and the lower part of the beam, can be filled with crushed stone: My question is: is this allowed? Even if the beam is pressure treated, and even if it is surrounded in whatever is desired (from nothing, to earth, to crushed stone), is this allowed? Tags: desk, beam, footing, crushed stone, below grade <Q> Sure, you can do that. <S> Rather than using a beam though, just use some of those pre-cast concrete pier blocks (like in this article ). <S> If you really want to use a beam instead (it might be cheaper) <S> you'll want to make sure the treated wood you use is rated for ground contact. <S> You might have a hard time finding <S> ground-contact rated 2x6's at a local home store, but they probably do carry ground-contact rated 4x6's that you could use instead. <S> Another option would be to use railroad ties for your "beam". <S> just dig a trench, fill it with gravel, level it out, compact it, and set the railroad ties on top (note - railroad ties are much heavier than they look). <A> “All lumber and plywood shall be treated in accordance with AWPA C22, and shall bear the label of an accredited agency showing 0.60 retention.” <S> 780 CMR 5402.1.2 <S> I think that means that your beam can be underground. <S> You will need to treat cuts and holes with copper napthenate: <S> “Where lumber and/or plywood is cut or drilled after treatment, the treated surface shall be field treated with Copper Napthenate, the concentration of which shall contain a minimum of 2% copper metal, by repeated brushing, dipping or soaking until the wood absorbs no more preservative.” <S> The footings for your beam will need to be frost protected, i.e., “extend a minimum of 48 inches below finished grade at all points” <S> (5403.1.4) <S> One alternative is to build a patio instead of a deck. <S> A deck is defined by 780 CMR 5202 as an “exterior floor system supported on at least two opposing sides by an adjoining structure and/or posts, piers, or other independent supports. <S> “ You will need to add at least four inches of gravel or crushed stone on top of the compacted dirt. <S> Gravel should be 3/4 inch or smaller, and crushed stone should be 1/2 inch or smaller ( 780 CMR 5504.2.1 ). <S> Between the gravel or stone and the wood, you should put a six-mil (0.15 mm) polyethylene moisture barrier with six-inch overlaps between the pieces of plastic ( 780 CMR 5504.2.2 ). <S> (Warning: <S> amateur reading of the building code.) <A> If your deck won't be too large, you could build a free standing deck frame with 2x6's. <S> 2x6 joists would be resting on doubled up 2x6 beams. <S> Use 8 <S> " builders tubes 4' below grade with metal post holders sunk into concrete (the ones you have in your sketch). <S> If you're using 4x4 post holders, they will be 3.5" actual and you can sandwich 1/2" pressure treated plywood between two 2x6's to get a snug fit. <A> I know this is an old post <S> but I will answer it in case someone wants the right answer. <S> All you need to do is make the rim joist your beam and attach the floor joists with joist hangers. <S> So the beam will be at the end of the deck the same height as the floor joists. <S> If you need a beam in the middle you can make the beam the same height and add floor joists on both sides of beam. <A> For anyone in the future, in most areas with not insignificant snowfall this is not code. <S> Upwards of 6" of clearance above ground level (grade) is required to minimize moisture rot, specifically, after the buildup beam (min 5.5"), joist structure (min 3.5"), and boards (min 1") and variance (~.5"). <S> Your deck will fall at a minimum of 16.5" from grade (the ground). <S> The kicker of course is that at around 24" you're required guard rails leaving you with less than 8" of play. <S> And for those who may wonder, bolting the structure to the structure is not what classifies your deck as an extension to the house. <S> It is proximity to the house (check codes). <S> While I'm here, digging lower or adding dirt do not change the ground level (specifically grade). <S> If your door is under 16" from grade, you may want to look at concrete or stone patio. <S> Ontario is uniform in the populated regions (northern excepted), here's a decent guide from Markham: https://www.markham.ca/wps/wcm/connect/markhampublic/a7149174-b1c5-450d-b267-a67685b5378d/HomeownerGuide_Decks.pdf?MOD=AJPERES&CACHEID=a7149174-b1c5-450d-b267-a67685b5378d <A> You can build a deck where there are several beams parallel to the house, and the joists go between the beams. <S> That puts the beams and the joists in the same plane. <S> It's more work and you likely need multiple beams, but it works fine.
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In Massachusetts, you can use wood for foundations as long as it is the right kind of pressure-treated wood.
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Buzz in my electronics I bought a house that had a lot of fluorescent lighting installed. The kitchen has four fixtures with 2 42" bulbs each. The front bathroom has a fixture. The garage has 12 fixtures. The shed has 8 fixtures. There are a lot of them. But I get a buzz in my electronics. Buzz on my computer. Buzz on my stereo. Et cetera. I have gotten around it on the stereo with a power conditioner. I think putting all the lights on one circuit will be troublesome since I think it would require rewiring most of the house. Is there anything I can do myself without hiring an electrician to do major work? <Q> Can you isolate the problem to any specific lights? <S> Of course, obvious question, but if all the lights are off does it go away? <S> Does the buzzing get louder as you turn more lights on? <S> It's possible that this is caused by older magnetic ballasts (which themselves typically buzz). <S> You could try replacing just the ballasts with electronic ballasts, just be sure they are equivalent and pay attention to the difference in wiring. <S> It may also mean that you need new bulbs, as you may not be able to find an electronic ballast with the same characteristics, but that's not maybe not terrible since T8 bulbs (1" diameter) are supposed to be better and more readily-available than T12 bulbs (1.5" diameter). <A> Fluorescent lights emit Electromagnetic Pulse. <S> This is likely affecting your electronics. <S> Related article: <S> Richard Box , an artist-in-residence at Bristol University’s physics department , was one of the first people to discover the phenomenon. <S> He describes it below: <S> The electric field set up inside the tube excites atoms of mercury gas, making them emit ultraviolet light. <S> This invisible light strikes the phosphor coating on the glass tube, making it glow. <S> Because powerlines are typically 400,000 volts, and Earth is at an electrical potential voltage of zero volts, pylons create electric fields between the cables they carry and the ground. <S> Box denies that he aimed to draw attention to the potential dangers of powerlines, ˜For me, it was just the amazement of taking something that's invisible and making it visible,' he says. <S> ˜When it worked, I thought: ˜This is amazing' <A> Holding a cell phone next to a powered speaker can cause the speaker to play the data that the phone receives periodically from a cell tower because the wires act as antennas. <S> I wrapped the battery module for my old Bose noise quieting headphones with tin foil, and the really loud buzzing from my phone stopped. <S> What you may need to do is add ferrite beads to you AC power cords, and perhaps improve the RF shielding to some of your electronics gear. <A> I had this problem in my very old house - it actually burned out my stereo. <S> Some circuits were showing the buzz and others were not. <S> I had to test them by plugging my television and my stereo into different circuits before everything worked. <S> i never did fix it- <S> i think in my case it came from through the step down transformer which is pretty old. <S> in my case i would get the buzz whether the kitchen floursecents were on or off.
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I have seen more electronic equipment come with a power cord that includes a toroidal choke or ferrite bead inductor that helps eliminate some of the buzz that might leak into a device by way of the various wires connected to it. A fluorescent tube glows when an electrical voltage is set up across it.
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What type of wood for moist exterior location that is also paintable My rear screened porch has some has 2x2s that hold the screens in place and many of them are rotted from moisture. It looks like they are plain old 2x4s that were ripped down (though I'm not sure) and then painted (poorly) with exterior paint. What type of wood and should I use to replace them? I do wish to paint them to match the rest of the house. Or can I use any good quality wood and prime and paint with a good paint? <Q> I would also consider getting the wood treated first. <A> Cedar would be a good choice, if you want something untreated. <A> Most timber that has been painted is done after the fact and typically the areas that are likely to soak up water are not accessible to the painter, such as the underside of the timber. <S> This is typically also where water can settle and therefore will get soaked up by the timber which creates the rot due to not being visible and therefore not exposed to sunlight to dry out. <S> When installing new timber in exterior locations it is best to paint it after being cut to size to ensure that in unseen places a coat of paint creates a water barrier. <S> Most hardwoods are best for exterior locations, but nearly all timber can be used if properly painted as @ChrisF says.
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As long as you make sure that the wood is isolated from the source of moisture as much as possible (or better still remove the source) then any decent quality wood properly primed and painted should be OK.
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How do you remove the stick-on child safety locks from appliances? I have a few stick-on child safety locks, such as this one found on Amazon. When it comes time to remove them, what should I do to avoid destroying the finish on the appliances? They are stuck on really well and won't budge by hand. <Q> I had these on painted wooden cabinet doors. <S> I slid dental floss behind the plastic part which cut the plastic latch off, leaving the foam adhered to the door. <S> Then I peeled the foam off by hand <S> and it did no damage. <S> I couldn't believe how easy it was! <S> I thought it was stuck for good. <A> If the adhesive is 3M VHB (Very High Bond), which I think is what they use for the 'command strips', and it doesn't have a foam backing on it, you can just put firm pressure on it to try to twist it. <S> Hold it there under pressure, and it'll slowly release and pop loose after a few seconds. <S> If it's foam backed, this won't work, as the foam will absorb the force, keeping it from being applied to the adhesive. <S> Depending on the condition of the surface, how well the surface was prepped, and how long it's been left on (which I'm guessing is months), it's possible it might damage things -- I've had a number of times when I've taken paint off of walls with the stuff. <S> Hard plastics and shinier finishs seem to hold up, so most appliances should be okay. <A> Try removing it first without removing the foam backing. <S> You can dissolve the foam backing with constant application of WD-40 and scrubbing with a wet wash cloth. <A> I used the hair dryer to soften the glue then scraped it off. <S> It worked well <S> but then I noticed my laminate cabinets started to bulge where I had heated it up! <S> Something to be wary of if using the hair dryer method. <A> I inserted a flat head screwdriver and gently and slowly pulled forward until it gave way. <S> If you don't tools hard/fast, the plastic clip will snap. <A> Wappa Baby child proof door lever lock. <S> The devices were attached to Andersen outside factory painted doors, and were affixed to the doors for three weeks. <S> I manually pried the unlocked device by pulling on the swivel part. <S> Start slowly, it will pop right off. <S> I did three locks, 10 seconds each. <S> BTW, the locks worked very well for us. <A> I used the pointed end to a bottle cap opener and used it to pry off the base. <S> An old fashion can opener the one that is pointed and makes a triangle opening. <S> Separate the two top and bottom as if you were opening the drawer. <S> The bottom piece has a square shape where the top snaps into. <S> I used a metal bottle opener the pointed end and pried it off my cabinet drawer. <S> It worked and took off the sticky part too. <S> It worked so well <S> I was able to reuse the latch and place it in the correct spot on the cabinet drawer. <S> The first time I placed one I placed incorrectly on my drawer. <S> The top was on my first drawer and the bottom was on my second drawer. <S> Did not like this set up. <S> Now the top is on the side of the drawer where the wall is and the bottom is on the drawer itself. <S> My son can't get into this drawer. <A> Use a sharp toothless knife to cut the sticky part slowly. <S> Takes 1 minute each <A> Use a hair dryer to soften the glue/backing and a paint scraper to pry/push the glue off. <A> The kind we had there was a very thin foam stuck to cabinet drawer. <S> All I did was stick a butter knife (blunt end) behind the lock and popped/pryed it off. <S> The foam could then be fairly easily peeled off by pushing with a finger and rolling up and off. <S> If a large piece of foam was left it was easier because you could get a hold of and edge and slowly peel it off. <S> Clean up by just using a finger and rubbing over what was left and it will roll up to something that can be picked off. <S> Final clean up using goo-off on a rag and sort of polish off any residue. <S> All this done with out making a mess by spraying with WD-40 or using a lot of Goo-Off. <A> Thanks for everyones suggestions. <S> Based on what you said, I removed the hard plastic portion of the lock. <S> Then I used goo gone to soak the foam backing. <S> After a minute I put high heat on the foam with a hair dryer and then took a wooden cuticle stick and scraped off the foam and glue. <S> It took a little time <S> but no harm came to my stainless steel ovens. <A> DONT USE WD 40 ON FINISHED WOOD! <S> Used a large metal table spoon or serving spoon and wedged between gap in plastic and foam and used as lever and fulcrum. <S> Came right off then saturated foam with liquid gold and let sit. <S> Foam came right off and didnt hurt finish <A> I was able to use dental floss to "saw" off the plastic parts, then used a plastic scraper to scrape off the foam and most of the adhesive. <S> Then I used Goo Gone to clean off what was left. <S> Looks perfect!
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We had put some of that foam sticky tape on an old apartment door once and I found that by spraying it with WD-40 and scrubbing it, I was able to remove the foam tape and residue easily without removing any underlying paint or finish.
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Can I vent a bathroom fan through the eaves? I want to fit a fan in our bathroom. The easiest way to do this seems to be to drill down from the loft and put it in directly above the shower. I'm then considering running the vent (flex pipe) through the loft and tape it to the vents (already in the eaves). Can anyone say whether this is acceptable, or is it likely to create damp in the eaves? <Q> You should use a separate outlet for the pipe as the existing vents won't be able to cope with the volume of air <S> and you'll probably end up with steam in the loft. <S> Did you buy a kit or separate components? <S> If you've got a kit then there should be an outlet grille in that, if not you should be able to get one at the same place you bought the fan and flex pipe. <A> Through the soffit/eaves is not desirable: Too much moisture can reenter the home and end up in the insulation or attic. <S> Either through the wall to a wall cap with damper or through the roof with insulated rigid duct to a roof cap. <S> Flex duct is a robber of CFMs (cubic feet per minute, a measure of flow). <S> Try to use a little as necessary and do the main runs in smooth, rigid duct. <S> Save the insulation from your flex duct and put it over the rigid. <A> When you say "venting through the eaves", do you mean 1) exhausting throgh a vent in the roof, or2) exhausting through the soffit (the flat underside of the roof) ? <S> But I do not know if this is acceptable.
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I like the idea of venting through the soffit, so that no rain can enter the roof if I do a less than perfect job of sealing the vent.
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Roof stone tiles. How to fasten them? I am watching a TV program where they are restoring a ruin into a cottage. One thing that left me aghast is the fact that the roof was made with flat, very heavy stone tiles. Ater they rebuild the roof frame with wood, they put the tiles back on the wood by drilling the tiles and using a long nail down through the wood. It's just a matter of time that the nice british weather promotes rust on the nails and a 50 kg tile slides down to kill the poor chap walking by. I have no knowledge of roof restoration, even less with such unusual tiling, but what is the proper procedure to fasten them without breeding disaster ? <Q> You can buy special metal brackets for roof tiles: <S> Whether brackets are required depends on wind speed, wind direction, subroof type, roof angle, roof shape, height, and other factors. <S> Regardless of whether you use brackets, nails, or screws, they must be stainless, galvanized, or otherwise protected from corrosion. <S> Nails must have ring-threaded shanks. <S> (Source: manufacturer's instructions for various roof tiles sold in Norway. <S> Check your local building codes and the instructions provided by the manufacturer of your roof tiles.) <A> The nails are copper. <S> That's the same method used for slates, and the traditional method. <S> And yes, when that connection gives out the slates DO slide off the roof. <S> This can be caused by wood rot, deteriorated stone, or earthquake. <S> The copper itself won't be the problem. <S> Read up on slate technique, which is also used for thicker stone like you describe. <A> In Australia, roof tiles are often concrete. <S> They aren't really fastened to the beams at all (a hole and nail every dozen tiles or so is all), but are shaped so they interlock in such a way that the weight of tiles above them holds them in place. <S> They can't slide down, they have a lip over the beam and another tile overlapping the join - you'd have to remove the (fastened down) capstones at the top to have any hope of removing them.
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Most of the roofs I have seen have used nails, and only in certain places, relying for the most part on the friction and weight of the roof tiles to hold them in place.
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How to best clean the inlet vent screen on a microhood? Over the years, my microhood has developed a greasy buildup in the inlet vent screens on the underside of the microhood. They're an aluminum mesh that comes out easily with a label near it saying not to use harsh chemicals or excessive water. The verbiage stops short of recommending the best way to clean them. <Q> I ended up using degreaser and it worked better than I thought. <S> First, remove the vent screens. <S> In a sink, I sprayed liberal amounts of degreaser on both sides and let sit for a couple minutes. <S> Spray down with water and repeat cleaning if necessary. <S> Dry on a towel. <S> Afterwards, they looked like new. <A> The best thing would be to look in the manufacturer's instructions which may be online if you don't have it handy. <S> I don't understand what "excessive water" means other than that it may hold a little water if it's not thoroughly dry <S> and if you try to operate it some will be pulled into the fan which wouldn't be good. <S> Then thoroughly rinse it. <S> Shake as much water out as you can and allow it to dry in the sun for a few hours. <S> Check it carefully before re-installing. <A> I used to try and clean my kitchen vent hood and filters with 409 which was a real drudgery and a huge mess. <S> Since, I have discovered the really easy way! <S> There is a product that comes in a box like powdered laundry detergent called "White King Ultra Water Softener & Detergent Booster. <S> " I use a bucket large enough to place the filters into, that has about 1 cup (or more) of the White King and very hot water. <S> Literally, within a minute the nasty, greasy goo just rolls off using a very soft brush on both sides. <S> Rinse the filters in clean hot water. <S> You can use a clean bucket of water and White King to wipe down the rest of the hood. <S> I think the White King may be hard to find anymore, and a relative suggested that any of the dishwasher soaps should do the same thing since they're meant to alleviate hard water spots...just be liberal with the soap.
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I would take it outside and wash it thoroughly in a pan or bucket of very hot water using some liquid dish detergent (Dawn, for example). I guess sometimes the simplest approach is best; don't overthink the situation.
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Are water heater blankets a good idea? Is it a good idea to wrap a water heater in insulation? Does it lower the heating cost? Does it shorten the life of the water heater? <Q> A lot of water heaters (that I've seen anyway) are in unheated spaces -- basements, garages, attics (in some countries). <S> The rate at which you lose heat from the water depends mainly on two things: the difference in temperature between the water and the outside environment. <S> The greater the difference, the faster the heat loss. <S> the R-value of the insulation between the water and the environment: the higher, the better. <S> How much it will help depends on the temperature of the water and the environment the tank is in. <S> (The surface area of the tank is also a factor in the rate of heat loss. <S> While adding a blanket will increase the surface area, the savings by having the extra insulation will more than offset the loss the extra area will provide). <S> If anything, insulating should lengthen the life of the heater because it wouldn't have to work as hard maintaining the water at the set temperature. <A> When the gas company came out to replace the flexible hosing on our water heater <S> I asked them about the blankets and <S> they said that, as a policy, they recommend against them. <S> I asked if the insulation would matter <S> and he said only if we had the water heater outside. <S> And then it would make more sense to build a very small enclosure around it. <S> Weird. <A> Blankets are almost always recommended by people who do energy efficiency stuff. <S> I would use one on an electric water heater, but I'm not comfortable using one on a gas unit. <S> Ask the manufacturer of yours. <S> They will probably say it voids the warranty. <S> If it's out of warranty, then it won't matter.
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The tank will provide some insulation, but adding a blanket for another layer of insulation will definitely help.
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How do I reinforce the attic floor? We have an attic I'd like to use as an extra room. The frame of the house is solid 2x8" beams and i'm told that the weight is not a problem there. The attic framing is just a typical framing though. Can I reinforce it with joists and have it hold up a typical load of furniture and people? I'm not going to put the family safe up there, but i would like to make the attic useful without tearing the roof off. <Q> In Massachusetts, attic floors must support at least 30 lbs/ft² live load (the same as bedroom floors) if the attic is accessed by means of a fixed stairway ( 780 CMR 5502.3.1 ). <S> Use a span table to determine the necessary joist dimensions, given their span length, spacing, wood species, and grade. <S> For example, if your floor joists are 2x6 spaced 16 inches o.c., they can then be between 8'5" and 10'11" depending on the wood species and grade ( 780 CMR Table 5502.3.1(1) ). <S> Uninhabitable attics with limited storage need only support a live load of 20 lbs/ft² ( 780 CMR Table 5802.4(2) ). <A> <A> You should consult an architect or engineer.
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This is one of those questions that is tough to answer without actually seeing the attic, there may be more issues here with turning this in to a living space than just will it hold the load. There are codes to what can and cannot be a livable space, because of this I would consult a contractor and/or engineer.
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Dresser/Chest with convex front I'm contemplating building a dresser and am looking at designs and such to get my creative juices flowing. Today I noticed that some dressers/chests have concave or outwardly curving drawers on the front face. Usually I can figure out how to do most woodworking feats, but I'm not sure about this one. Some ideas I have: By hand with a planer/sander Some sort of CNC planer that makes curves Steam the wood and bend to shape Here's a picture of what I'm talking about: Can anyone shed some light on this? <Q> Build up the piece in layers. <S> It's a lot easier to bend a thin sheet of wood, then bending say a 3/4" piece. <S> The basic idea here is to create an arched piece of plywood. <S> Start with a thin sheet of wood 1/8" to 1/4" <S> depending on the type of wood, and the finished pieces thickness. <S> soak the sheet in water until it is pliable. <S> Using clamps or a jig, bend the sheet past the desired arc (the board will lose some of the bend when the clamps are removed). <S> Let dry, or heat and let cool. <S> Repeat this procedure with as many sheets as it takes to get your final thickness, making sure each sheet fits perfectly over the previous one. <S> Using glue and some clamps glue all the pieces together to form a single piece. <S> Trim to size, sand, and finish. <A> This is wasteful of wood, but an option if the faces are not too heavily curved. <S> You can easily find 8/4 stock to start from for a mild curve, ending with a 3/4 inch thick drawer face. <S> Glue it up from layers of veneer. <S> Essentially, build your own plywood for the drawer faces, gluing it into shape on a form. <S> Or use thicker layers (1/8 or 1/4 inch thick perhaps) steaming them if necessary to make them sufficiently pliable. <S> Thinner layers may become sufficiently pliable just by dipping them in water. <S> Steam bending. <S> It may be difficult to bend such a wide piece of wood, or to steam it enough to be pliable. <S> Some woods will bend more easily than others. <S> Shallow kerf cuts on the back face will help if you cannot get enough of a bend on practice pieces. <S> Many clamps and a strong form will be useful tools here. <S> Veneer. <S> Here you would start with a stable substrate of your desired shape, gluing down a thin layer of a valuable wood on top. <S> This is a good approach for very expensive woods, such as a rosewood face for the drawers. <S> Of these options, I would recommend options 1 or 2, depending on what sources of wood you have available, and the desired extent of the curvature of the drawer faces. <A> I think steam bending is supposed to be the easiest method. <S> For bends around corners it may help to cut slats into the back (concave) side. <S> A Google search for "bend wood" returns a number of howtos.
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The options here are Cut the drawer faces from thick stock on a bandsaw. For a curved surface, a vacuum bag is probably useful to get it to form to the surface.
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How can I finish this "peeled" drywall? While doing some work in my bathroom, one thing led to another and paint started peeling. I found that under many layers of paint was some wallpaper so it seemed natural to pull... I started peeling it off like crazy, in huge pieces before I realized that what was left behind was not so nice: drywall with its paper peeled off. It looks like part of the drywall's paper has come off, leaving a rough, fuzzy, roughish surface (that's about 1ft 2 ). Question: how do I fix this? I might be able to scrape/sand it down smooth enough to paint...maybe. Another option is to hang some wallpaper. I do not want to go down to the studs and hang new drywall. UPDATE: I said I didn't want to go down to the studs...but that's what I ended up doing. It was not as hard as I expected but did add a lot of time and cost to the project. I couldn't have done it without YouTube :). <Q> I don't think sanding the surface will produce a surface good enough to paint. <S> It's certainly a lot of effort for uncertain results. <S> If the underlying surface is very rough it might still show through the wall paper, unless it's very thick (1000 gsm lining paper for example) or you do some sanding. <S> The best answer might be to continue to peel off the paper and then skim the wall with plaster. <S> Depending on your plastering skills you might want to get a professional in. <S> The result should be good enough to paint. <A> Short of replacing the drywall, you can do a skim coat as others have suggested. <S> However, be careful - if you do too thick of a coat, the paper will absorb too much moisture and will bubble underneath the mud/plaster. <S> You'll then have to sand it down, cut out the bubbled section, and skim again. <S> Trust me, I've done this and dealt with that exact problem. <S> Just use a thin coat, sand it smooth, and if necessary add another coat. <S> You can then texture, prime, and paint. <A> Primer/paint will not work. <S> It will be lower than the surrounding surface. <S> Try a skim coat of joint compound over the affected area to get it level. <S> If it doesn't work, you'll have to replace the drywall. <S> Good luck! <A> In reality the brownish inner layer of drywall paper is very absorbent of water and also comes off in chunks if you try to sand, so never sand or apply water based material over it. <S> If you sand you will still have similar problem of fluffy brown paper to deal with and it will be deeper than surrounding areas. <S> If you apply joint compound, as some have suggested directly over the peeled untreated paper you will get swelling and bubbles all over and have a mess. <S> The proper repair is as follows: <S> Use an oil based sealer to thoroughly cover the exposed paper surfaces. <S> You may use more than one coat if needed, including the edges. <S> Once dried use drywall mud to apply thin layers as needed, sanding between layers as normal. <S> Then prime and paint as for any other drywall surface. <A> If you just try to sand what you've got, you'll never see the end - that's just not going to go smooth <S> no matter how much you sand. <S> Plaster would definitely work, but I think primer might do OK too.
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If you don't want to go the plaster route (per ChrisF), you could try painting a thick coat or two of primer (which should, in theory, absorb a bit into and stabilize the surface), then sand that a bit before another coat of primer and then paint over it. Trim all edges of the affected area with a sharp razor knife to clear all loose and peeling paper. It will not "fill in" (I've tried). You've got to effectively 'glue down' the surface bit.
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How do I prepare an already painted wall for new paint? We are repainting a number of rooms in our home, do we need to put primer over the existing paint? Are there any other gotchas that we need to prepare for before repainting the walls? <Q> No, in general, you don't need to prime existing paint, but there are exceptions. <S> To prepare for repainting: wash the wall to remove any grease. <S> fill any holes and cracks with suitable filler, possibly using flexible filler for longer cracks. <S> Unless you're an expert you won't get the filler flush with the existing wall <S> so you'll need a filler you can sand. <S> sand and prime the filled areas - priming will seal the filler and keep it in place. <S> If there are a lot of filled areas, you might want to sand and possibly prime the whole wall to avoid a patchy look. <S> repaint the wall with at least two coats of your new colour. <S> If the cracks are large you might want to check there's not a current movement problem. <S> New houses will settle quite a bit when first built and there'll even be some movement in older homes. <S> If there is current movement then you'll be seeing new cracks appear and older cracks getting longer and/or wider. <S> If you are painting over a dark colour with a light colour you might need more than 2 coats to stop the previous colour showing through. <S> If that's the case then using a primer or basic white matt emulsion for the first coat ( <S> or two if it's really dark) <S> is a more cost effective option than using the more expensive coloured paint for all the coats. <S> Unfortunately you don't always find that out in time. <S> Paint in full daylight - especially for the final coat - so you can see where you've been and be methodical. <A> If you want a really nice job, get a drywall pole sander and give the wall a quick going over with 200-250 grit paper before priming, and before your final colour coat. <S> Remember to wipe with a damp rag <S> (use the pole sander if you like) before applying any paint/primer. <A> Priming is best. <S> If you have to do two coats of paint to cover the old color, why not use a good primer or primer/sealer and one coat of a good paint? <S> Most people will say otherwise, but primer will stick to old paint a lot better than new paint will. <S> I recommend wiping the walls down with a damp cloth first, but it's a lot of work, and I've never done it to a wall that wasnt't obviously filthy. <S> Use one coat of primer and one coat of paint. <S> Never ask a paint to do a primer's job! <A> As long as you buy the paint/primer in the same brand and they are both the same base, you will have exact match. <S> This one tiny little tip guarantees a perfect job with only one coat of primer and one coat of paint. <A> TSP and a sponge mop . <S> Wash the walls once with a TSP solution, then again with clean water to remove any soapy residue. <S> This stuff <S> really works, so that means if you've sensitive skin, wear those big rubber cleaning gloves. <A> You can mix some of your paint with the primer to tint it to the final color hue. <S> This has always worked for me. <S> This is a good method if the paint change is a drastic one. <A> Ok. <S> What I've found when transitioning from one wall color to another is not tinting the primer to the top coat but rather tinting the primer to neutral gray. <S> I've done it both ways and, for some reason, (probably what parts of the spectrum gets reflected, what gets absorbed) <S> the neutral gray (photographers among us, think 18% gray card...) allows fewer top coats. <S> It seems counter-intuitive <S> but, trust me, it works! <A> At Home Depot I always have them tint the primer the same color as the paint. <S> They do that at no cost. <S> Also after caulking or drywall repair is dry <S> I paint those areas with one coat of paint or primer before starting on trim cut in work . <S> When I paint body .It is dry. <S> The paint is always blotchy if those areas haven't had an extra coat. <A> Personal experience about dark walls. <S> I painted a light yellow over a dark blue wall. <S> I used Behr paint with primer added. <S> After two coats the blue still showed through. <S> Not sure if prior priming was necessary since paint contained it already. <S> One of the walls was already white and one coat covered it up. <S> The third coat covered it up the last bits but what a pain.
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There's one tip that was completely missed, and should have been at the start: When painting over a surface that has had to be repaired or was very dirty (scrub it clean first), get both the paint and the primer tinted to the same color.
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Does PEX require home runs? I've been told that PEX requires home runs to a manifold (or star topology, to borrow from networking) to maintain the same flow rate/pressure as copper. Anyone else heard this? <Q> PEX uses fittings that have a smaller inside diameter than the tubing, unlike copper where the fitting ID is typically the same as the tubing. <S> That smaller ID is going to reduce your flow rate vs. copper if you have a lot of fittings between the source and your fixture, as you might in a non-home-run situation where fixtures are teed off a main trunk. <S> In a properly installed system, this will be countered somewhat by using larger diameter tubing for that trunk line. <S> So that's the theory, but in practice I can tell you that I've now lived in two houses that were plumbed in non-home-run PEX and never had problems with reduced flow in the remote fixtures. <S> Both of these houses used 3/4" PEX for the trunk and 1/2" PEX for the branch lines. <A> PEX is generally run to a manifold, but there are adapters that let you connect it to existing copper pipe. <S> However, it's so easy to run that I'd just do it the nice way. <A> I would have thought that the only way the flow rate would be affected would be if the tube has a significantly different internal diameter. <A> The problem is PEX clamps leak around the two crimp point areas. <S> (Unlike hose clamps that have an overlap and have uniform area on the seal area) <S> This leak can lead to pop offs and thus house interior flooding. <S> Therefore homerun designs (no crimps behind walls and ceilings) allow for the leak and pop-offs to contain the water damage to a one area.
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As PEX is just the material the pipes are made out of, you should need exactly the same configuration as you would if you were using copper.
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How do you reduce floor sound transmission? How do you reduce the sound transmission through a floor? Using "green glue" between a couple layers of plywood subfloor seems to work well. Are there any other tricks or suggestions? <Q> Here's what we've done so far. <S> I'm curious whether there may be better techniques... <S> R-19 batts between joists to reduce noise transmission through air liquid nails on top of joists to reduce squeeking subfloor first layer of 1/2 inch plywood <S> "green glue", a gummy substance to reduce foot fall noise transmission second layer of 1/2 inch plywood rosin paper hardwood planks <S> Actually we haven't installed the hardwood floor yet but we tried walking around on the subfloor and talking in fairly loud voices and neither could be heard in the floor below. <S> Adding another layer of wood should only help. <S> One option that we skipped is to use joist isolators which are pads that go between the joists and the subfloor. <S> I've been told that there are three principles at play when trying to reduce sound transmission: the denser the floor the better <S> (ie concrete is better than wood) <S> the thicker the floor <S> the better (ie 3 inches of wood is better than 1) the fewer (and softer?) <S> the points of contact between floor and ceiling the better (eg green glue and joist isolators) <S> The first two are pretty clear. <S> One example of the third is if the ceiling below is dropped and does not use the joists above for support. <S> Instead the ceiling uses only the walls on either side, and ideally the wall studs aren't connected to the joists either. <A> Recording studios have to solve this problem all the time. <S> You may find good information by hunting under that aegis. <S> One thing to take note is that transmission of high frequency and low frequency have very different solutions. <S> High frequency <S> it's mostly a matter of stopping the air motion; since you're taking about floors, you want to damp out low freq: <S> Large mass helps by converting vibrations to lower (subsonic, inaudible) frequencies. <S> The extra layer of subfloor you added is extra mass. <S> The canonical solution to blocking lowfreq is a big bookcase full of heavy books; think about that on its side. <S> Physical isolation with a sound-dampening substance also helps--reducing the amplitude of the transmitted vibration. <S> For example, rigid foam strapping over the joists before nailing the subfloor down might assist with the noise transmission through the wood. <S> This sounds like your 'joist isolators'. <S> Or a thick pad under a carpet (if there is a carpet). <S> Ironically by tying your subfloor tightly to the joists, you have increased sound transmission. <S> Spoiling the emittance of the listening side also helps. <S> The ceiling of the floor below is acting as a big, taut speaker, magnifying sounds from above. <S> This is what QuietRock does--it absorbs energy as it flexes, turning it to heat instead of sound. <S> Putting irregular structure behind the wall might help alter its resonance, prevent booming noises from transmitting. <S> Sound diffusers help break up the sound. <S> Because the sound you are creating is things like footsteps, this is harder to do--but be aware that the upper level can be amplifying the sounds by aiming them at the floor (think of the extreme case of a dome, which will reflect noise straight back at the floor). <S> Acoustic tile in the upstairs room might help with high freq reduction, or baffles in the corners--or just more bookcases and sofas upstairs. <S> You can also add diffusers to the downstairs room, but you run the risk of making it sound 'dead' or making it quiet enough <S> the muffled noise from upstairs becomes more annoying. <S> ;) Hope this works out! <A> Insulate between the floor joists. <A> If you are laying laminate flooring then using a laminate underlay is a good idea too. <A> I see several specialized products to mitigate sound transmission mentioned on HGTV almost daily. <S> One of them is always used above basement apartments by the contractor on the show Income Property . <S> It connects to the joists and isolates the drywall below <S> so it's only connected to them through a few screws. <S> Unfortunately, I'm not sure what it's called, but Kinetics IsoMax looks like it may be the product they use. <S> If not, it's similar. <S> The other product I saw mentioned yesterday on an episode of Holmes on Homes is called QuietRock . <S> It's drywall product <S> that blocks sound transmission as much as 8 layers of standard drywall. <A> I have seen sheetrock that is advertised as "sound-damping". <S> Using this as the ceiling downstairs may help. <S> Not sure how good the claim is - it was vendor advertising.
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Carpet + underlay works well.
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What kind of wall material should be used in wet areas in a bathroom? I'm replacing a one piece fiberglass tub with a two piece (tub + surround) unit. In the bathroom right now, there's just drywall, no special material. Should I replace the drywall with greenboard, or with a cement board material (i.e. Durock)? How many feet adjacent to the but should be replaced with one of those two materials? Should I also replace the material behind the vanity with one of those two? <Q> Greenboard (or any paper faced drywall) is an unacceptable substrate for any wet application (shower or tub stalls). <S> Regardless of tub stall surface (tile, fiberglass, etc) you will get some moisture penetration through the shower liner and this will eventually create bigger problems. <S> You need to install Hardibacker or Durock (or any cementitious board) as the substrate for your tub/shower stall. <S> Matter of fact, in many municipalities it is required by building code. <S> It only needs to be installed in the area of the tub/shower, though no need to extend further out. <S> The rest of the bathroom can be done in greenboard though (and that isn't a bad idea). <A> As long as you can ensure that the surface is sealed with a waterproof layer then you don't really need to make any special modifications. <S> The main thing you need to ensure is that there's no way water can get onto unprotected wall or floor surfaces. <S> In the UK baths are fitted into rooms that have normal plaster and the walls tiled to provide the water proofing. <S> If you have to replace any of the existing drywall then it might be worth going for a special water resistant panel (e.g. Aquapanel), but they are more expensive. <A> If you are worried about the other areas of the bathroom you could use the "green" board stuff, though if it cost a little more than regular drywall.
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For right around the shower/tub I would use cement board since mold will not grow on that.
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Lubricant for squeaky doors I'm looking for a long term solution to my squeaky doors. Our home is fitted with brass hinges on all doors and lately they have all been starting to squeak. I've tried several silicone based lubricants but none have solved this issue permanently. <Q> Properly lubricating the hinges should stop the squeaks. <S> In short, you remove the hinges from the door, lubricate them, and put them back. <S> You'll want to use white lithium grease. <S> It works very well for metal on metal contact. <S> I'm assuming simple door hinges here, like these <S> You'll want to do each door one at time. <S> Long Process <S> Have someone support the door while you knock the hinge pins up and out from the bottom of each hinge. <S> Lean the door up against the wall and unscrew the hinges from the door and the jamb. <S> Lay out the hinges on newspaper and use the lithium grease to lubricate the pins and the inside of the barrel. <S> The barrel is the tube that the hinge pin passes through, <S> Usually, you let the lithium grease dry before reassembly. <S> Follow the directions on the grease. <S> Finally, re-attach the hinge wings to the door and jamb. <S> With someone holding the door, re-insert the pins from the top. <S> Enjoy the silence. <S> Short Process Have someone support the door while you knock the hinge pins up and out from the bottom of each hinge. <S> Lay the hinge pin on newspaper and use the lithium grease to lubricate it. <S> Usually, you let the lithium grease dry before reassembly. <S> Follow the directions on the grease. <S> With someone holding the door, re-insert the pins from the top. <S> Enjoy the silence. <S> Do one door first, and give it few days to make sure the squeak is gone. <A> The underlying problem may be that the hinges are not perfectly aligned. <A> Motor cycle chain lubricant or <S> a 3-in-one oil works well. <S> Motorcycle chain lubricant is designed to penetrate and provide lasting protection, though as with any lubricant, it does need to be re-applied occasionally. <S> If the hinge is REALLY bad, you'll need to take it apart though. <A> I like graphite-based lubricants (like you'll see for loosening a frozen car door lock). <S> Lithium grease is an excellent option, though, too. <A> Use WD-40. <S> Works everytime. <A> Jigaloo is an amazing lube. <S> If you don't go nuts with it, it dries really quickly. <S> It smells nice, waterproofs, and generally works really well. <S> But, it causes cancer, so don't spray the kids or their toys. <S> I use it on squeeky things, my leathers, my bike, and my rubik's cube. <A> As others have said, WD-40 is not a "permanent" lubricant, but the spray can is damn convenient. <S> So, what I would use is Spray silicone . <S> You can find it in white and clear varieties. <S> You probably want clear. <S> (Spray silicone is what my car manufacturer reccomends for lubricating the door hinges.) <S> My next choice would be 3-in-1 oil. <S> It is a little more runny though. <S> No matter what you pick, don't overdo it. <S> Spray a tiny bit and open/shut the door to let it work in.
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Lithium grease is a better option for sure, I just am putting this out there because it can be applied without taking the hinges apart, and works reasonably well.
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Do I need a cordless screwdriver if I own a cordless drill? I currently own a cheapo corded drill and one of DeWalt's lower-end cordless screwdrivers. I want to buy a cordless drill because I am done with extension cords. Most (good) cordless drills seem to be able to function as a screwdriver. If I did buy a cordless drill, it would probably get a lot of use as a screwdriver. Probably more than it would as a drill. Will the cordless drill be able to fill the same role as the screwdriver? Will I even need the screwdriver anymore? Are there any drawbacks to using the cordless drill as my primary power-screwing tool? For what it's worth, I plan to get a DeWalt with a Lithium battery. I haven't decided on a specific model yet, though. (Brand/Model recommendations are welcome.) <Q> The electric screwdriver can sometimes fit where a bulky drill cannot, e.g., electrical boxes. <S> Apart from that, the drill is a fine screwdriver (assuming it has a clutch, of course, but I have never seen a battery-powered drill that does not). <S> Don't get rid of your corded drill. <S> Battery-powered drills, especially the cheap ones, are not powerful enough for serious drilling such as a 5/8-inch hole through a 4x4 or any hole through metal. <A> Anything sold as a "screwdriver" should have a clutch in them so they won't strip the head of a screw, or can drive a screw to a set depth. <S> (they basically just stop applying force after a fixed amount of torque) <S> Most screwdrivers will have a "drill" setting, which will lock it, preventing this "feature from engaging. <S> Drills, on the other hand, if they don't have this feature, you have to be careful when driving screws, or you can strip the head, or even tear the head clean off, both of which makes it more difficult to remove. <S> If you already have a decent power drill, and you're just looking at a screwdriver for occassional tasks (not like putting up sheets of drywall), and you're not driving things that need massive amounts of power, you might want to consider one of the 'quick charge' capacitor-based models . <S> They can fully recharge in under a minute, but they're only good for a dozen or so screws per charge. <S> If you're working in an area with power, it's enough to put up a few things, let it charge while prepping for the next part to be screwed down, etc. <A> A simple drill will carry on turning regardless whereas a screwdriver has a clutch that stops the bit turning if it meets too much resistance. <S> This means you don't either burn out the motor or snap the head off the screw when you drive it home. <S> So while you could use a plain drill to drive in screws you would have to be very careful. <S> The drawbacks of cordless are: <S> they are £ for £ (or $ for $) lower power than the equivalent corded drill so that you have to pay more for the same drilling power. <S> you need to keep the battery packs in good condition. <S> you always run out of power half way through a job (or is that just me?), but this can be mitigated if you buy (or the drill comes with) a spare battery pack. <A> For what it's worth, I think the clutches on cordless drill/drivers are overrated. <S> With a little practice, if you don't know already, you'll get the feel for slowing and stopping the driver as you're approaching a reasonable torque for the screw and material, just as you do with a regular hand screwdriver. <S> Whenever I have tried using the clutch on my driver, say to speed things up if I'm driving a lot of screws at once, one of two things inevitably happens: 1) <S> I hit a few soft spots in the material and strip out those holes, or 2) I mistrust my selected clutch setting and torque at least a few of the screws by hand. <S> Each of these outcomes completely negates any speed advantage gained by blindly driving the screws until the clutch slips. <S> I suppose this is more usage advice than purchasing advice since all cordless drill/drivers have clutches, <S> so there's no need to seek it out if you want it. <S> Your choice of a Li-ion battery is a good one -- they're lighter than the equivalent nicad tools, they are more durable, and (my favorite benefit) <S> they don't discharge over longer periods of disuse. <A> I use a DeWalt cordless hammer drill to drive screws most of the time, but it's big and heavy. <S> Cordless screwdrivers have their uses as well, though- <S> I use mine for attaching electrical equipment to boxes (light fixtures, switches, outlets), for example. <S> An DeWalt 18v lithium drill will work great. <S> I'd go with that or a Milwaukee if I were looking for a new high quality piece. <S> Even the really cheap stuff sold at Menards seems to work reasonably well these days. <A> What you reallllllly want is an impact driver... <S> The one I use is a Makita 18V Impact driver... <S> It will allow you to drive a 3 1/2" inch screw into wood without ever stripping the head. <S> Preferably get a backup battery, but the battery lasts a real long time and takes about 20 minutes to charge. <S> Here's how it works ... <S> every time it twists the screw it also pushes the bit forward... <S> if the resistance is too great, the chuck will slip and the screw head will not be damaged... the screw head will not break off... <S> I used a cordless drill with a chuck to try to drive screws for years and it was just an effort in frustration. <S> Either the chuck would slip too much, or it would either strip the screw head or (very rarely) break it off... <S> You will wonder how you ever lived without it... <S> (I have no affiliation with Makita, but I love their products...) <S> https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XDT01-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless/product-reviews/B00NOVNDE2/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_btm?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=recent <S> -- Mine is variable speed... <S> this is 3 speed... <S> seems like a 3 speed would be better... <S> mine is a little tricky to control when I get a screw close to flush... <S> It will be the best money you've ever spent if you do a lot of home projects...
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You really need to make sure it states it has a screwdriver function, but yes it will effectively replace your cordless screwdriver.
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What's the fastest way to strip paint off of a piece of installed trim/moulding? Let's say you have some detailed moulding around several interior doors and you want to strip the paint off with the least amount of labor (time-wise)? How would you go about it? Heat gun, chemicals, removing the trim and reinstalling, etc are all options. <Q> The least time route would definitely be the "remove the trim and replace with fresh" route. <S> However, this would depend on you being able to get a suitable replacement. <S> Heat gun is quite quick, but you have to be careful of a) <S> the chemicals released when heating the paint and b) not scorching the wood. <S> Heat guns shouldn't really be used where you've got lead based paint. <S> You will definitely need to sand the mouldings if you use a heat gun, you may have to if you use chemicals. <S> This might not be practicable for delicate/intricate mouldings. <A> They'll have access to stronger chemicals than you will, and they'll also have the physical setup for taking care of fumes and toxic waste. <S> The service that I used dunks the pieces in a bath of heated solvent which dissolves the paint: no scraping, so no potential for damage to any intricate detailing. <S> I had a door done a while back; IIRC <S> , they charge by surface area of the piece being treated and it was around US$100 for that (80"Hx30"Wx1.5"D) door. <S> When I got it back, I just had to sand lightly to get the surface back to a milled condition. <A> This really depends on the age and type of paint, number of layers, and how intricate the wood is. <S> I'd test one or all of the methods on a small area to see what works best. <S> By far, taking the wood off the wall, stripping it and putting it back is faster and safer. <S> It is much easier to scrap it once its not attached to the wall. <S> Then it is a lot easier to use chemicals. <S> Heat works very well, but be very careful to test it as you go and not to burn it. <S> As soon as it starts to bubble, scrap it. <S> In my experience, heat has not been useful when there is new latex paint over old paint; it just made the top layer sticky and harder to get off. <S> I usually try to scrap as much off as I can first before using heat. <S> Latex paint sometimes peels off in nice long strips. <S> I've used heat on lead paint before, but wearing a respirator mask and with good ventilation in the room. <S> If you take the woodwork off, this is less of an issue as you can do it in your garage or something. <S> A heat gun and a sharp triangular scrapper works very well on old mill work and corners. <S> You can also get quartz heaters that can heat a large section of the trim at once and are very effective (but expensive). <S> A good sharp putty knife works well on latex paints and flat surfaces. <S> You can get good, cheap scrappers of all shapes at flea markets and sharpen them up to snuff. <S> Often the challenge is hitting the paint at the right angle, so try different scrapers if you find that what you are doing isn't working. <S> If you go with chemicals, wire brushes work really well. <S> My neighbor told me that acetone works well for removing excess sludge that gets stuck in woodwork, but I haven't tried this yet. <S> I try to avoid chemicals as I always seem to spend more time trying to get rid of the sludge than I would just scrapping paint! <S> Good luck. <S> Restoring wood work is such a pain and there is really no "easy" way to do it. <S> The results can be worth the pain though!
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Chemicals will be useful where you've got delicate/intricate mouldings but will probably take the longest as you might need several applications if you've got lots of layers of paint. Getting someone else to do it is always the least labor-intensive: if you have a paint stripping service nearby, ask them about doing it.
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Can a dryer be vented through the roof? In my home the dryer vent is set up to vent out into an enclosed back porch. The problem is that all sorts of lint (and heat) get pumped out into that enclosed area and makes a mess. Directly above the dryer there is a ventilation pipe that goes to the roof (also connected to the vent in the bathroom) that I could easily re-route the dryer vent into. A couple of questions about this: Is it a generally accepted practice to vent a dryer up through the roof, or does a dryer vent have to generally be at a level or downward slope? Is it okay to use the same vent line as the bathroom or am I asking for trouble? Is there a recommend maximum distance for venting a dryer that I am going to exceed going from the first floor of a home to the roof? <Q> I would not do this for exactly the reasons you've asked about: 1) By sharing the bathroom vent pipe, you're ensuring that at least half the gunk that's being spewed onto your porch is going to be spewed into your bathroom unless you can find and install some kind of one-way flapper between the new "Y" fitting and the bathroom. <S> 2) I'm assuming since you say "first floor" that you also have a second floor, in which case that's a long way to go to get up to the roof. <S> It's not such a big deal for the bathroom fan to vent up there, but that's a long way for lint from the dryer to be carried, and it's going to be more likely to collect on the walls of the pipe over that long distance. <S> Do you have a crawlspace or basement that you could run a new pipe through? <A> Can you continue the vent on the porch to an exterior wall? <S> Maybe put in a 90 degree bend and continue the vent pipe along the wall of the house? <S> Here is a list of maximum vent length , down toward the bottom of the page. <S> I wouldn't try to share the bathroom vent. <S> I can see several potential downfalls. <S> The bathroom may vent through your dryer. <S> The bathroom fan may fill with lint, making it inoperable at best, and causing a fire hazard in the worst case. <A> We had to go through our roof with our dryer. <S> I doubt it was longer than 15' but at any rate never experienced any problems. <A> Going through the roof is fine, the idea is to make the run as straight and short as possible. <S> First floor through roof is not ideal, so keep it under 25 feet. <S> I'd worry about return air. <S> If you go through the roof, I would not use the same line as a bathroom (note my condensation problem ). <S> I'll let you know how my new cap works out (if it ever arrives), you'll want something like that as well to keep the outside air out of your dryer.
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The dryer may actually vent into the bathroom which will fill it with hot, moist air if not lint. If you do find and install such a thing, it's going to be difficult to keep clean and operational.
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What is the purpose of a watt regulator in my ceiling fan? The lights on my harbor breeze fan stopped working this morning. When I came home from work, I got the ladder and took down the lights. I don't have a multimeter but I saw that there is this Watt Regulator (pic below) in the fan. I traced the wires and it seems that this may have been the culprit. I snipped the wires, got some wire nuts, and wired directly into the 120V circuit. Ta-da! Lights are back and fan is working normal. Question is : What is the purpose of this watt regulator? Why do some fans include it? <Q> Here's the real story: http://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/appliance_standards/residential/ceiling_fans.html <S> As required by the Energy Policy Act of 2005 <S> (EPACT 2005), the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) has established test procedures and energy conservation standards for ceiling fans and for ceiling fan light kits. <S> Ceiling fan light kits with any other socket type including but not limited to candelabra screw base sockets, intermediate screw-base sockets, 2-pin halogen sockets, and bayonet sockets manufactured on or after January 1, 2009, shall not be capable of operating with lamps that total more than 190 watts and must be packaged with lamps that together total 190 watts or less. <S> DOE indicated in a January 11, 2007, final rule that it recognizes that manufacturers may choose to follow one of several possible design pathways to ensure that the light kit is not capable of operating with lamps that total more than 190 watts. <S> http://www.regulations.gov/#!documentDetail;D=EERE-2006-TP-0121-0003 <S> DOE is interpreting the 190-watt limit on power consumption for certain ceiling fan light kits as a design requirement. <S> This approach will require that manufacturers incorporate some measure such as a fuse, circuit breaker or current-limiting device to ensure the light kit is not capable of operating with a lamp or lamps totaling more than 190 watts. <A> The Wattage regulator has nothing to do with speed of fan or brightness of bulbs or for a remote. <S> It is a safety feature that prevents the fan from overheating. <S> Contact the manufacturer and they should send you a new light kit. <A> A regulator would normally be used either to change the speed of the fan or the brightness of the lights. <S> If this regulator didn't have any external controls like a pull chain, is there a chance this fan at one time had a remote control?
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If you install bulbs that exceed the specified wattage, the wattage regulator either shuts off the bulbs or limits the wattage they receive to prevent overheating.
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How do I select a color to paint various rooms in my home? What color guides are best? I am prepare to paint my "old" house rooms, to clean it up. But I do not know how to select a color to paint my bedroom, my baby room, and other living room. This house did not have too much light because is on base floor surround with buildings and I wish for bright colors that make people relax on bedroom. Are there any general guides to help me out on this ? Or any sites with ideas or proposals. <Q> I agree with ChrisF's comment that this is subjective. <S> I doubt you'd share my love of bright fuchsia with lime green trim I have in all my rooms. <S> That being said, Behr's "Paint Your Place" is a tool that allows you to pick colors and add them to a picture you've uploaded to get a better idea of what the finished room would look like. <A> - they'll walk though the house, take a look at your furniture, art work, carpets, etc and present you with a plan. <S> For someone with no decorating ability at all, it's money well spent. <A> Here's a video about ' Why ColorMatters '. <S> Here's a video about the most common mistakes <S> that people make when choosing a color. <S> [Hint: Pick a "dull" color for the walls. <S> Bright and vibrant colors should be used only for accents (or not at all).] <S> This page includes tips about on choosing interior and exteriorcolors . <S> Finally, I highly recommend the '20th Century Colors of America' palette by California Paints. <A> Here's a web based graphic design tool that assists in selecting color schemes. <S> Of course it's RGB, but it can give you ideas on colors that work well together. <S> http://colorschemedesigner.com/ Play around with it and then go to a paint store and try to find closely matching chips. <S> The tool got me into the ball park <S> and I was able to refine with paint chips from the store. <A> If you (like me) have no sense of color, go with the colors that have been “standard” for the last decade, at least here in America: <S> various lighter shades of gray with a tint of other colors for warmth. <S> While not terribly exciting, these colors will at least make your home look updated. <S> Use glossy or semi-glossy paint for trim and flat paint for walls, except maybe kitchen and bathrooms. <S> The colors will probably be on display at the paint store. <S> You can also see them in magazines and real estate ads. <S> To see them in action, go to open houses for new track homes/McMansions (if you have those in Athens). <A> Go to any paint or big box store, and pick up a couple of the brochures/booklets from the paint companies. <S> They have various color schemes that go together included in them (including the actual paint chips) and so really it's just a matter of picking one you like. <A> better you have to do is get the color wheel sample,then easy to combine them which color you like. <A> The selection process for me has been: Decide what to paint. <S> Take a stab at what vague color might be good. " <S> A light blue." <S> Visit store, be overwhelmed by choices, grab a million paint swatches. <S> Return home, hold up swatches next to objects that the painted surface will be next to. <S> Winnow down the choices based on what looks good/bad next to other colors in the room. <S> Return to store, get paint samples of the remaining choices. <S> Paint <S> a portion of the surface, preferably where you can view it next to other objects of other colors in the area. <S> Wait for it to dry. <S> Choose a favorite. <S> Wait longer. <S> Paints often look different as they dry, particularly matte paints, which start life looking far shinier. <S> Test the paint under varying light conditions. <S> How does it look in morning sun? <S> Evening soon? <S> Noontime? <S> What about under artificial lights? <S> In the dark? <S> Pick a favorite, return to store, purchase large vat of it, and paint all the things.
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I used color scheme designer when trying to figure out a good color transition between my dining room and adjacent kitchen. Some paint stores (as opposed to big-box stores) will, for minimal cost, come out and do a plan for you
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